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2d Session. No. 54.

382d ConerEss, SENATE. { EXECUTIVE,

EXPLORATION

OF THE

RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA.

IN THE YEAR 1892;

BY

ue?
RANDOLPH B. MARCY,

CAPTAIN FIFTH INFANTRY U. 8.) ARMY 5
ASSISTED BY

GEORGE B. McCLELLAN,

BREVET CAPTAIN U. S. ENGINEERS. peest. 9681!
3-

40-

WITH REPORTS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY,
AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS,

WASHINGTON:
ROBERT ARMSTRONG, PUBLIC PRINTER.

1853.

REPORT

OF

THE SECRETARY OF WAR,

COMMUNICATING,

In compliance with a resolution of the Senate, Captain Marcy's Report
of his exploration of the Red river. :

Fezsrvary 4, 1853.—Ordered to be printed.
Marcu 10.—Ordered that 2,000 additional copies be printed, 200 of which for
Captain Marcy.

War DEPARTMENT,
Washington, November 8, 1858.

Sir: In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 4th of
February, 1853, I have the honor to transmit herewith, for the use of
the Senate, a copy of the report of Captain R. B. Marcy of his explora-
tion of the waters of Red river.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

>) * es JEFFN. DAVIS,
nh Secretary of War.

ASBURY Dicurxs,.Esq,,

Secretary’ of the Senate.

INTRODUCTION.

In submitting the following report of a reconnoissance of the
country bordering upon upper Red river, it is proper to state
that previous to our departure upon the expedition, we were
unable to procure all the instruments adapted to the perform-
ance of such services as were required of us. We succeeded
in obtaining a sextant, a mountain barometer, an aneroid ba-
rometer, an odometer, a prismatic compass, and two Fahren-
heit thermometers; but could not procure a chronometer,
and, in consequence, were under the necessity of ae our
observations with a pocket lever watch.

The latitudes given are the resuits of from twelve to fifteen
observations of Polaris for the determination of each position.
The longitudes were determined by a series of observations
upon lunar distances, and are believed to be as accurate as
the imperfect character of our instruments would admit.

The positions thus deduced have been corrected by frequent
and careful observations of courses and distances with the
compass and odometer, a record of which will be found in
the appendix.

The astronomical observations were made* by Captain
George B. McClellan, of the engineer corps, who, in addition
to the duties properly pertaining to his department, performed
those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An
interesting collection of reptiles and other specimens, in alco-
hol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into
the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smithsonian
Institution, whose reports will be found in the appendix. For
these and many other important services, as well as for his
prompt and efficient co-operation in whatever was necessary
for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe-
dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest ac-
knowledgment.

lV INTRODUCTION.

Doctor George G. Shumard, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who
faithfully discharged the duties of surgeon to the command,
also made important contributions to the department of natu-
ral science, by collections of specimens of the rocks, minerals,
soils, fossils, shells, and plants, of the different localities which
we traversed; and of these, the plants were placed in the
hands of Dr. John Torrey, of New York, the eminent botanist
so well known to the army by his able reports on the collec-
tions of Fremont, Emory, and others.

The shells were intrusted to Professor C. B. Adams, of
Amherst. His report, as presented, possesses a melancholy
interest, as being almost the last scientific effort of this distin-
guished conchologist, whose loss science has so recently been
called upon to deplore.

The specimens of rocks and minerals have been examined
by President Hitchcock, of Amherst College, with important
results, while copious remarks on the general geology of the
country have been supplied by Dr. Shumard, who has also
furnished some notes on the conchology of the route.

The minerals and soils have been analyzed by Professor
C. U. Shepard, who detected among them a new species.
Finally, in the hands of Dr. Benjamin F. Shumard, the fossils
have yielded several novelties to science. All these reports
upon the natural history of the expedition will be found de-
tailed at length in the appendix.

The barometrical observations which are given were taken
from both forms of the instruments, and exhibited a remarka-
ble agreement until the 8th of June, when we had the mis-
fortune to break the mountain barometer, and were obliged
subsequently to depend solely upon the aneroid. This I be-
lieve to be very reliable, as it has been tested since our return
by a careful comparison with several other instruments in
possession of Benjamin Pike & Son, New York, and found to
be in perfect order. :

In order to obtain as intimate a knowledge as possible of
the country over which we passed, I was necessarily absent
from the train a great portion of the time while it was in mo-
tion; and during such periods the command devolved upon

INTRODUCTION. Vv

Lieutenant Updegraff,; which, with the constant guard I
deemed it necessary to keep over our animals in a country
where the Indians manifested a disposition by no means
friendly towards us, made his varied duties laborious, and it
gives me pleasure to bear testimony to the efficient manner
in which he performed them.
R. B. MARCY,
Captain 5th Infantry.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS.

*~

CHAPTER I.

Order from headquarters of the army—Failure of former expedi-
tions in reaching the source of Red river—Causes of failure—Departure
from Washington—Arrival at Fort Belknap—The Little Witchita—
Big Witchita—Departure from Cache creek—Copper ore—Indian
signs - - - - - - - - - - = = - - - = - = Pagel

CHAPTER Ii.

Witchita mountains—Panther killed—Buffalo traces—Singular and
unaccountable rise of water—Buffalo signs—Horse captured—Rains—
Arrival at Otter creek—Barometer broken—Character of Witchita
mountains—Buffalo killed—High water- - - - - - - Page 10

CHAPTER III.

Witchitas—Discouraging account of the country in advance—Pass
100° of longitude—Leave Otter creek—Berries—Elk creek—Pass
Witchita mountains—Gypsum bluffs—Buffaloes seen—Suydam creek—
Comanche signs - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Pagel?

CHAPTER IV.

Buffalo chase—Sweet Water creek—Comanche camps—Prevailing
winds—Indians seen—Method of encamping—Wonderful powers of the
Delawares—Beaver dams—Kioway creek - - - - - - Page 27

CHAPTER VY.

Reach the source of the north branch of Red river—Bottle buried—
Arrived upon the Canadian—Departure for Middle Fork—Indian battle-
ground—Pyrairie-dog towns—Source of Middle Fork—South Fork—
Prairie dogs - - - - - - - - = = - = = = = Page 37

CHAPTER VI.

Arrive at the main South Fork—Panther killed—Bitter water—
Intense thirst—Head spring—Bears abundant—Departure down the
Yiver - = = - = - = = = = = = = = - - - Page 49

Vill TAREE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

Antelope and deer—Witchita mountains in sight—Reach Buffalo
creek—Valley of Otter creek—Salubrity of climate—Deer-bleat—
Horseflies—Scurvy—Witchita mountains—Pass through the mount-
ains—Buffalo seen - - - - - - - - - - - - - Page 62

CHAPTER VIII.

Old Indian villages—Beautiful scenery—Trap formation—Lost
mule—Beaver creek—Prairie guides—Rush creek— Witchita and Waco
villages—Mexican prisoners—Talk with the Indians—Cross Timbers—
Kickapoos—Strike wagon track—Arrival at Fort Arbuckle. Page 72

CHAPTER IX.

Prominent features of the Red river—Chain of lakes—Cross Tim-
bers—Arable lands—Establishment of a military post upon Red river
recommended—Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing to Mex-
ico—Wagon route from Fort Belknap to Santa Fe—Navigation of Red
river—Erroneous opinions in regard to Red river—Extensive gypsum
range—El Llano Estacado - - - - - - - - - - - Page 83

CHAPTER X.

Indians of the country—Habits of Comanches and Kioways—Simi-
larity between them and the Arabs and Tartars—Predatory excursions
into Mexico—War implements—Incredulity regarding the customs of
the whites—Method of saluting strangers—Degraded condition of the
women—Aversion to ardent spirits—Prairie Indians contrasted with the
Indians of Eastern States—Buffaloes—Probable condition of Indians
on the extermination of the buffaloes—Pernicious influence of traders—
Superstitions of the natives - - - - - - - - - - - Page 93

CHAPTER XI.

Pacific railway—Impracticability of crossing the “Llano Estacado”—
Route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe—Return route from Dota Ana—
Its connexions with the Mississippi and Pacifie - - - - Page 109

TABLE OF CONTENTS. 1X

APPENDIX A.
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS- - - - - - - - Pagell9
APPENDIX B.
Tapizs or Courses anp Distances - - - - - = Page 139
APPENDIX C.
MINERALOGY :
Report on the minerals collected. By Prof. C. U. Shep-
Bd eS =e ee Se ee aS oe + Page 155
APPENDIX D.
GroLocy:
Notes upon the specimens of rocks and minerals collected. By
President Edward Hitchcock - - - - - - Page 163
Remarks upon the general geology of the country traversed.
By George G. Shumard, M.D. - - - - - - Page179
APPENDIX E.

PALZONTOLOGY :
Description of the species of carboniferous and cretaceous fossils
collected. By B. F. Shumard, M.D. - - - - Page 199

APPENDIX F.

ZOOLOGY :
Mammals. By R. B. Marcy, CaptainU.S.A.- - Page 215
Reptiles. By 8. F. Baird and C. Girard - - - - Page 217
Fishes. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard - - = - Page 245
Shells. By C.B. Adams and G.G.Shumard,M.D. Page 253
Orthopterous insects. By C. Girard - - - - - Page 257
Arachnidians. By C.Girard * - - - = = - Page 262
Myriapods. By C.Girard - - - - - - = = Page 272

APPENDIX G.

Botany :
Description of the plants collected during the expedition. By
Dr.John Torrey - - - = - - =» - - = Page 279

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

‘APPENDIX H.

ErHNouoey :
Vocabulary of the Comanches and Witchitas. By Captain R.
B. Marcy; with some ian remarks by Prof. W. W. Tur-
mer - = = - - - - - = = = = = - Page 307

ALPHABETICAL INDEX - - + © + = + « = = = Page 313

ILLUSTRATIONS.

LANDSCAPES.
Plate. Page.
I. Granite boulders - - - - - - - - - = - - = 22
II. Mount Webster- - - - - - - - - - - = - = 21
III. Encampment of 6th June - - - - - - - - - - 25
IV. Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river - - - - 238
Y. Views of Bluffs on Canadian river - - - - - - - - 39
VI. View near Gypsum Bluffson Red river - - - - - - 24
VIL. Border of El Llano Estacado - - - - - - - - - 50
VIII. View near head of Red river- - - - - - - - = = 55
IX. View near head of Red river- - - - - - - - - = 55
X. Head of main branch of Red river- - - - - - - - 56
XI. Trap mountain on Cache creek - - - - - - - - - 738
XII. Witchita village on Rush creek - - - - - - - - - 78

GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS.*
I. Section showing the order and succession of the strata from
Washington county, Arkansas, to Fort Belknap, Texas - 179
III. Section on Cache creek, near its junction with Red river - 182
IV. Section of strata on north branch of Red river, taken June 2 187
Vv

- Out-crop of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone near
north branch of Red river- - - - - - - - - - 189

VI. Section of the borders of the Llano Estacado, taken June 16 190

VII. Section of strata near middle branch of Red river, taken

ee ae ee LOO
VIII. Section of bluffs between middle branch of Red river and
Dog-town river, taken June 24 - - - - - - - - 191

* All the geological sections are by Dr. George G. Shumard, surgeon to the
expedition.

Xil

ILLUSTRATIONS.
Plate.
IX. Section of strata near the head of Red river, taken June 28
X. Section of cliffs on Cache creek- - - -
PALHONTOLOGY.*
I. Fig. 1 a. Productus cora, D’Orb. - - -
Fig. 2. Productus costatus,Sow. - - -
Fig. 3. Spirifer, indet.- - - - - = +

Fig.

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

Il. Fig.
Fig.
Fig. 3 a. b. Terebratula choctawensis, Shum.

4 a,b, Terebratula marcyi, Shum,
5. Productus punctatus, Martin - -
6. Archimedipora archimedes, Les. -
7. Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost
1. Productus punctatus, Martin - -
2 a. 6. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow. -

Fig. 4 a. 6. c. Hemiaster elegans, Shum. -

HI. Fig.

1. Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shum.

Fig. 2. Holaster simplex, Shum. - - -

Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
IV. Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.
Fig.

V. Fig.
Fig.

3. Astarte washitensis, Shum.- = -
4, Ammonites, indet=i - - - - =

. Exogyra texana, Roem. - - - -

. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow.
. Trigonia crenulata, Lam. - - -
. Cardium multistriatum, Shum.

9)

6

1

2

3. Eulima subfusiformis, Shum. - =
4, Globiconcha elevata, Shum. - -
5. Ammonites marcianus,Shum.-— -
6. Pileopsis; not mentioned in the text
7. Holectypus planatus, Roem. - -
8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall - - -
1 a. b. Exogyra texana, Roem. - -

2. Ostrea subovata, Shum. - - =

Page.
191

194

202
202
203
203
201
201
199
201
204
207
210
209
210
206
210
205
204
206
207
208
208
209°

211
202
205
205

* Owing to the impossibility of communicating with Dr. Shumard during the
printing and engraving of the present report, I have been unable to fill up the
gaps in the above list of figures made up from the references in the article on
paleontology. This want of supervision on the part of the author will also ex-

plain the existence of sundry discrepancies between text and plates.

B. M.

ILLUSTRATIONS. XIil

Plate. ; Page.
VY. Fig. 3. Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shum. - + = 208
VI. Fig. 1. Panopea texana, Shum. - - - - - + - = 207
Fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roem. - - - 206
Fig. 3.
Fig. 4. Natica, inde. (cast); not mentioned in the text -
Fig. 5. Gryphea pitcheri, Morton - - - - - = = 205
ZOOLOGY.
I. Crotalus confluentus,Say - - - - = © = - = - 217
II. Euteenia proxima, B.& G. - - si clea peters, (220
III. Eutenia marciana, B.& G.- - - - - = = = = = 221
IV. Heterodon nasicus, B.& G. - - = - - - = - = 222
V. Pituophis meclellanii, B.& G.- - - - - - - = - 225
VI. Scotophis letus, B&G - - - - « = - = = - 227
VII. Ophibolus sayi, B.& G.- - 2 - - - = = = = - 228
VIII. Ophibolus gentilis, B.& G.- - - - - - + - = = 229
IX. Leptophis majalis, B.& G.- - - - - - - - = + 2382
X. Figs. 1-4. Cnemidophorus gularis, B.& G. - - - - 239
Figs. 5-12. Sceloporus consobrinus, B. & G. - - - 287
XI. Bufo cognatus,Say - - - - = - - - © = - = 242
XII. Pomotis (Bryttus) longulus, B.& G.- - - - - = - 245
XIII. Pomotis breviceps, B.& G.- - - - - - - = - - 246
XIV. Figs. 1-4. Leuciscus vigilax, B.& G - - - - - - 248
Figs. 5-8. Leuciscus bubalinus, B.& G. - - - - - 249
Figs. 9-12. Leuciscus lutrensis, B.& G.- - - - - - 251
XY. Figs. 1-4. Brachypeplus magnus,G.- - - - - - - 260
Figs. 5-8. Anabrus haldemanii,G. - - - - - - = 259
Figs. 9-13. Daihinia brevipes, Hald.- - - - - - - 257
XVI. Figs. 1-3. Mygale hentzii,G. - - = - - - - - - 262
Figs. 4-5. Lycosa pilosa, G. - - - - - - - - - 263
XVII. Figs. 1-4. Thelyphonus excubitor,G. - - - - - - 265

Figs. 5-7. Scorpio (Telegonus) boreus,G. - - - = = 267

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Plate.
XVIII. Scolopendra heros,G. - - -
BOTANY.*
I. Anemone caroliniana, Walt. -
II. Dithyrzea wislizenii, Engelm. -
III. Geranium Fremontii, Torr. -
IV. Hoffmanseggia Jamesii, Torr. & Gr.
V. Sanguisorba annua, Nutt. - -
VI. Eryngium diffusum, Torr, - -
VII. Eurytznia Texana, Torr. & Gr.
VIII. Liatris acidota, Engelm. & Gray
IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC.
X. Xanthisma Texana - - - -
XI. Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. & Gr.
XII. Artemisia filifolia, Torr. - -
XU. Erythrza Beyrichi, Torr. & Gr.
XIV. Heliotropium tenellum - - -
XV. Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt. -
XVI. Pentstemon ambiguus, Torr, -
XVII. Lippia cuneifolia, Torr.- = -
XVIII. Abronia cycloptera- - - -
XIX. Poa interrupta - - - - =
XX. Uniola stricta, Torr, - - -

* For explanations of the figures on each plate, see p.

301
301

. MAPS. XV

MAPS.

1. Map of the country between the frontiers of Arkansas and New
Mexico; embracing the section explored in 1849, 50, 51, and ~52, by
Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th U. S. infantry, under orders from the War
Department. Also, a continuation of the emigrant road from Fort
Smith and Fulton down the valley of the Gila.

2. Map of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red
river, explored in 1852 by Captain R. B. Marcy, fifth infantry, assisted
by Brevet Captain George B, McClellan, U. S. engineers.

CHAPTER I,

ORDER FROM HEADQUARTERS OF THE ARMY—FAILURE OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS IN
REACHING THE SOURCES OF RED RIVER—CAUSES OF FAILURE-——-DEPARTURE FROM
WASHINGTON-——-ARRIVAL AT FORT BELKNAP-——-THE LITTLE WITCHITA——BIG WIT-
CHITA—DEPARTURE FROM CACHE CREEK—COPPER ORE—INDIAN SIGNS.

New Yor, December 5, 1852.
Col: S. Cooper, Adjutant General U. S. Army:

Sir: I have the honor herewith to submit a report of an exploration
of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, made
in obedience to the following orders:

ApsuTant GENERAL’s OFFICE,
Washington, March 5, 1852.

Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, with his company as an escort, will proceed,
without unnecessary delay, to make an examination of the Red river, and the
country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources, accord-
ing to the special instructions with which he will be furnished. On completing
the exploration, Captain Marcy will proceed to Washington to prepare his report.

Brevet Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers, is assigned to duty with
this expedition. Upon the cempletion of the field service he will report to Brevet
Major General Smith, the commander of the eth department.

The necessary supplies of subsistence and quartermasters’ stores will be
furnished from the most convenient depots in the 7th or 8th military department.

By command of Major General Scott:
° R. JONES,

Adjutant General.

[Srecrar Orvers No. 33.]

Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the expedition, it
may be proper to remark, that during the greater portion of the three
years previous to the past summer I had been occupied in exploring
the district of country lymg upon the Canadian river of the Arkansas,
and upon the headwaters of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of
Texas.

During this time my attention was frequently called to the remark-
able fact that a portion of one of the largest and most important rivers
in the United States, lying directly within the limits of the district I
had been examining, remained up to that late period wholly unexplored

2 EARLY EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER.

and unknown, no white man having ever ascended the stream to its
sources. The only information we had upon the subject was derived
from Indians and semi-civilized Indian traders, and was of course very
unreliable, indefinite, and unsatisfactory; in a word, the country em-
braced within the basin of Upper Red river had always been to us a
“terra incognita.” Several enterprising and experienced travellers had
at different periods attempted the examination of this river, but, as yet,
none had succeeded in reaching its sources.

At a very early period, officers were sent out by the French govern-
ment to explore Red river, but their examinations appear to have ex-
tended no further than the country occupied by the Natchitoches and
Caddoes in the vicinity of the present town of Natchitoches, Louisiana.
Subsequent examinations had extended our acquaintance with its upper
tributaries, but we were still utterly in the dark in regard to the true
geographical position of .its sources.

Three years after the cession to the United States, by the First Consul
of the French republic, of that vast territory then known as Louisiana,
a small party, called the “Exploring expedition of Red river,” consisting
of Capt. Sparks, Mr. Freeman, Lieut. Humphry, and Dr. Custis, with
seventeen private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers, and a black
servant, embarked from Saint Catherine’s landing near Natchez, Missis-
sippl, with instructions to ascend Red river to its sources. They de-
scended the Mississippi, and on the 3d of May, 1806, entered Red river,
expecting to be able to ascend in their boats to the country of the .
Pawnee (Pique) Indians. Here it was their intention to leave their
boats, and, after packing provisions on horses which they were to pur-
chase from the Pawnees, to proceed (as expressed in their orders) to the
top of the mountains, the distance being, as they conjectured, about
three hundred miles.

It is evident from the foregoing that Red river was supposed to issue
from a mountainous country, and the preparations for this expedition
were made accordingly. This party encountered many difficulties and
obstructions in the navigation of the river among the numerous bayous
in the vicinity of the great raft, but finally overeame them all, and
found themselves upon the river above this formidable obstacle. They
were, however, soon met by a large force of Spanish troops, the com-
mander of which ordered them to proceed no further; and as their
numbers were too small for a thought of resistance, they were forced to
turn back and abandon the enterprise.

Another expedition was fitted out in 1806 by our government and
placed under the command of that enterprising young traveller, Lieut.

PIKE’S EXPEDITION. 3

Pike, who was ordered to ascend the Arkansas river to its sources,
thence to strike across the country to the head of Red river, and
descend that stream to Natchitoches. After encountering many priva-
tions and intense sufferings in the deep snows of the lofty mountains
about the headwaters of the Arkansas, Lieut. Pike arrived finally upon
a stream running to the east, which he took to be Red river, but
which subsequently proved to be the Rio Grande. Here he was taken
by the governor of New Mexico and sent home by way of Chihuahua
and San Antonio, thus putting a stop to his explorations.

General Wilkinson, under whose orders Lieut. Pike was serving at
the time, states, in a letter to him after his return, as follows: “The
principal object of your expedition up the Arkansas was to discover the
true position of the sourcés of Red river. This was not accomplished.”
Lieut. Pike, however, from the most accurate information he could
obtain, gives the’ geographical position of the sources of Red river as
in latitude 33° N. and longitude 104° W. Again, in 1819~20, Col.
Long, of the U. 8. Topographical Engineers, on his return from an explo-
ration of the Missouri river and the country lying between that stream
and the head of the Arkansas, undertook to descend the Red river from
its sources. The Colonel, in speaking of this in his interesting report,
says: “We arrived at a creek having a westerly course, which we
took to be a tributary of Red river. Having travelled down its valley
about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of Indians, of the
nation of “Kaskias,” or “Bad Hearts,’ who give us to understand that
the stream along which we were travelling was Red river. We accord-
ingly continued our march down the river several hundred miles further,
when, to our no small disappointment, we discovered it was the Cana-
dian of the Arkansas, instead of Red river, that we had been exploring.

“Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our long
journey, which they had to perform bare-footed, and the season being
too far advanced to admit of our retracing our steps and going back
again in quest of the source of Red river with the possibility of exploring
it before the commencement of winter, it was deemed advisable to give
over the enterprise for the present and make our way to the settlements
on the Arkansas. We were led to the commission of this mistake in
consequence of our not having been able to procure a good guide
acquainted with that part of the country. Our only dependence in this
respect was upon Pike’s map, which assigns to the headwaters of Red
river the apparent locality of those of the Canadian.”

Doctor James, who accompanied Colonel Long, in his journal of the
expedition, says: “Several persons have recently arrived at St. Louis, in

4 CONFUSED ACCOUNT OF RED RIVER.

Missouri, from Sante Fé, and among others the brother of Captain
Shreeves, who gives information of a large and frequented road, which
runs nearly due east from that place, and strikes one of the branches of
the Canadian, that, at a considerable distance south of this point, in the
high plain, is the principal source of Red river.

“His account confirms an opinion we had previously formed,
namely: that the branch of the Canadian explored by Major Long’s
party in August, 1820, has its sources near those of some stream which
descends towards the west into the Rio del Norte, and consequently that
some other region must contain the head of Red river.” He continues:

“From a careful comparison of all the information we have been able
to collect, we are satisfied that the stream on which we encamped on
the 31st of August is the Rio Raijo of Hunfboldt, long mistaken for
the sources of Red river of Natchitoches. In a region of red clay
and sand, where all the streams become nearly the’ color of arterial
blood, it is not surprising that several rivers should have received the
same name; nor is it surprising that so accurate a topographer as the
Baron Humboldt, having learned that a Red river rises forty or fifty
miles east of Santa Fé and runs to the east, should conjecture it might
be the source of Red river of Natchitoches.

“This conjecture (for it is no more) we believe to have been adopted
by our geographers, who have with much confidence made their delin-
eations and their accounts to correspond with it.”

Hence it will be seen that up to this time there is no record of any
traveller having reached the sources of Red river, and that the country
upon the headwaters of that stream has heretofore been unexplored.
The Mexicans and Indians on the borders of Mexico are in the habit of
calling any river, the waters of which have a red appearance, “Rio
Colorado,” or Red river, and they have applied this name to the Cana-
dian in common with several others; and as many of the prairie Indians
often visit the Mexicans, and some even speak the Spanish language, it
is a natural consequence that they should adopt the same nomenclature
for rivers, places, &c. Thus, if a traveller in New Mexico were to in-
quire for the head of Red river, he would most undoubtedly be directed
to the Canadian, and the same would also be the case in the adjacent
Indian country. These facts will account for the mistake into which
Baron Humboldt was led, and it will also account for the error into
which Colonel Long and Lieut. Pike have fallen in regard to the sources
of the stream which we call Red river.

Dr. Gregg, in his “Commerce of the Prairies,” tells us that on his
way down the south bank of the Canadian his Comanche guide, Manuel,

DEPARTURE FROM FORT BELKNAP. 5

(who, by-the-by, travelled six hundred miles with me upon the plains,
and whom I always found reliable,) pointed out to him breaks or bluffs
upon a stream to the south of the Canadian, near what we ascertained to
be the true position of the head of the north branch of Red river, and
where it approaches within twenty-five miles of the Canadian. These
bluffs he said were upon the “Rio Negro,” which the Doctor supposed
to be the Washita river; but after having examined that section of
country I am satisfied that the north branch of Red river, must have
been alluded to by the guide, as the Washita rises further to the east,
It therefore seems probable that “Rio Negro” is the name which the
Mexicans have applied to Red river of Louisiana.

Immediately on the receipt of the foregoing order I repaired to Fort
Smith, Arkansas, where the Quartermaster General had directed that
transportation should be furnished me, but on arriving there I learned
that nearly all the means of transportation had a short time before been
transferred to the depot at Preston, Texas. Captain Montgomery, the
quartermaster at Fort Smith, manifested every disposition to facilitate
my movements, and supplied me with ten most excellent horses, with
which I proceeded on to Preston. At this point I made a requisition
upon the quartermaster for a sufficient number of teams to transport
supplies of subsistence, and baggage for my command, for five months.
These were promptly furnished by Bvt. Major George Wood, to whom
I am under many obligations for his active and zealous co-operation in
supplying: me with such articles as were necessary for the expedition.
With but few resources at his command, with animals that had been
worked down, and, in consequence of the scarcity of grain, very poor,
and with parts of old wagons much worn, he succeeded in a very few

days in fitting me out with twelve ox teams that performed very good
"service.

As my company was at Fort Belknap, upon the Brazos river, one
hundred and sixty miles from Preston, and as the route by way of Fort
Arbuckle to the mouth of Cache creek (the initial point of my recon-
noissance upon Red river) is.much the shortest, I determined to leave
my supply train under the charge of a wagonmaster to bring forward
over this route, and to proceed myself to Fort Belknap and march my
company over the other trail, uniting with the train at the mouth of
Cache creek.

I accordingly reached Fort Belknap on the 30th of April, and on the
2d of May left with my company, marching over the Fort Arbuckle
road as far as where it intersects Red river. As our road led us along
near the valley of the Little Witchita, I took occasion to examine it more

6 THE BIG WITCHITA.

particularly than I had ever done before, and found it a much more
desirable section of country than I had imagined.

The soil in the valley is very productive; the timber, consisting of
overcup, white-oak, elm, hackberry, and wild china, is large and abund-
ant, and the adjoining prairie is covered with a heavy growth of the
very best grass. The stream at fifteen miles above its confluence with
Red river is twenty feet wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current,
the water clear and sweet.

From the point where I first struck it, good farms could id made
along the whole course of the creek to its mouth. The country adjoin-
ing is high, rolling prairie, interspersed here and there with groves of
post-oak, and presents to the eye a most pleasing appearance.

From the Little Witchita we ascended Red river along the south
bank, over very elevated swells of undulating prairie, for twenty-five
miles, when, on the 9th, we reached the high bluffs of a large tributary
ealled the “Big Witchita river.” This stream flows over a clay bed
from the southwest and enters Red river about eight miles below Cache
creek. It is a deep, sluggish stream, one hundred and thirty feet wide,
the water at a high stage very turbid, being heavily charged with red
sedimentary matter; the banks abrupt and high, and composed of in-
durated red clay and dark sandstone. The river is very tortuous in
its course, winding from one side to the other of a valley a mile in
width, covered with a luxuriant sward of nutritious mezquite grass,
which affords the very best pasturage for animals.

The latitude at this place is 34° 25’ 517’.

There are but few trees on the borders of the Big Witchita: oceasion-
ally a small grove of cotton-wood and hackberry is seen; but with this
exception, there is no timber or fuel near.

The valley of the river for ten miles above the mouth (the portion I
examined) is shut in by bluffs about one hundred feet high, and these
are cut up by numerous ravines, in many of which we found springs of
pure cold water. The water in the main stream, however, is brackish
and unpalatable.

It is my impression that the Big Witchita is of sufficient magnitude
to be navigable with small steamers of light draught at almost any
stage of water.

In consequence of the high water in Red river, we were detained at
the mouth of the Witchita until the morning of the 12th, during which
time our provisions being almost consumed, and not knowing positively
when our wagon train would join us, I took two Indians with pack-
horses, swam the river, and started out in quest of it. After going about

CACHE CREEK. 7

twenty-five miles towards Fort Arbuckle, we struck the trail of the
wagons, and following it two miles, overtook them. They had been
detained several days by heavy rains, which had rendered the ground
very soft, and in many places almost impassable. In consequence of
this, some of the wagons had been broken, and the repairs caused a still
further detention. Early on the following morning, after packing the
horses with provisions, we returned to where we had left the command,
and on our arrival found that the water in the river had fallen suffi-
ciently to admit of fording. Accordingly, on the morning of the 12th,
during a violent rain, we commenced the crossing, which was anything
but good, as the quicksand in the bed of the river was such as to make
it necessary to keep the wagons in constant motion. The moment
they stopped, the wheels would sink to the axles, requiring much force
to extricate them. By placing a number of men upon each side of
the mules and wagons to assist them when necessary, we, however, suc-
ceeded in reaching the opposite bank without any serious accident. The
latitude at the point where we crossed is 34° 29’. The river is here two
hundred yards wide and four feet deep, with a current of three miles per
hour; the banks upon each side low and sandy, but not subject to over-
flow. Passing out through the timbered land on the bottoms, we ascended
the high bluff bordering the valley by a gradual slope of about a mile,
which brought us upon a very elevated prairie, with the valley of Cache
_ ereek in view directly before us. We arrived there on the evening of the
13th, but found that the train had not yet come up. During our march
to-day we passed a small stream flowing into Red river, and directly at
the point of crossing, in a gully washed out by the rains, we found
many pieces of copper ore, of a very rich quality, lying upon the
surface.* Our time, however, was too limited to admit of a thorough
examination of the locality.

Cache creek is a stream of very considerable magnitude, one hundred
and fifty feet wide and three feet deep, with a current of four miles per
hour, flowing over a hard clay and gravel bed between high abrupt
banks, throngh a valley one mile in width, of rich black alluvion, and
bordered by the best timber I have yet met with west of the Cross
Timbers.

* An analysis of this ore by Professor Shephard gives the following results:

CE CME COR- OL ION). .072 ow 5 oS oes eee cd see bun ve eece 35. 30
oe ee in oko oles code toe 6 Cee eee US Ks 30. 60
MMMM GU WHGEE foc en facto ne cece ce oe OO Te meee Paes e stares 34. 10

8 FORKS OF THE CREEK.

Several varieties of hard wood—such as overcup, pecan, elm, hack-
berry, ash, and wild china—are found here, among which there is much
good timber. The overeup (Quercus macrocarpa) especially, is here
seen of very unusual size, often from three to four feet in diameter.

This tree, from the length of its stock, the straightness of its grain,
and the facility with which it splits, is admirably adapted to building
purposes, and is made use of extensively in the southwestern States.

The soil in the valley is of such superior quality, that any kind of
grain adapted to this climate could be produced without the aid of
irrigation.*

Three miles above the mouth the stream divides into two branches,
of about equal magnitude, both of them wooded throughout as far as I
traced them, and the soil along them arable in the highest degree ;
indeed, its fertility is manifest from the very dense and rank vegetation
everywhere exhibited. The water in the creek is alkaline, but quite
palatable; and its temperature at the time we encamped upon it was
75° F. Our supply train arrived on the 14th; but as the recent rains
had raised the water in the creek so much as to prevent our crossing,
we were obliged to remain here until the 16th.

This being the point upon Red river at which we were directed to
commence our explorations, I propose from this time to make such
extracts from my journal as I may conceive pertinent to the objects of
the expedition, as set forth in the letter of special instructions, which I
had the honor to receive from your office, with such other information
as may be considered important, and the conclusions which I have
arrived at after an examination of the whole country embraced within
the limits of our reconnoissance.

*An analysis of the sub-soil from Cache creek, by Professor Shephard, shows
that it possesses strong and enduring constituents, and is admirably suited to
the production of grain. It is eminently calcareous, as will be seen from the fol-
lowing analysis of its composition :

PTC te Nh oh, oe Se a 82. 25
Peroxide of trons... 2 ees ses ke oes cae ee eee eee 2. 65
PINS «oo acces 2 ac, Ke cdiddel weet ametion se cine 5p 55
Ravbonatevo? lime... oo Sa be wis oleien Weal « ciecijee See ee 5. 40
Pa VAR Ol TOAGNOSIA. « «200 bi wnat ws ed ume Se yam coe ae ee ee 1.70
Wacec.(hygrometric moisture) 22) |. 5.2252. 2b. eons eee ee ee ee 5. 50
Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash (only slight traces)........- 00

INDIAN SIGNS. 9

On the morning of the 16th the water had fallen so much that, after
digging down the banks, the wagons were taken over without difficulty.
We found an excellent ford upon a rapid where the water was shallow,
and the bed hard gravel.

Passing through the timbered land in the bottom, we struck out
across the valley, and ascended the ridge dividing Red river from Cache
‘ ereek; here we found a good road over smooth, high prairie, and after
travelling 14.789 miles, encamped upon a small affluent of the west fork
of Cache creek, where we found good water and wood. In the course
of the march to-day we met with numerous detached pieces of copper
ore, mixed with volcanic scoria.* This scoria is found in large masses
in the ravines we have passed, and extends back several miles from the
creek. The other rocks have been principally sandstone. In the course
of the day’s march we observed several Indian horse-tracks crossing our
road, which were made just previous to the last rain. The direction
they had been going was towards the Witchita mountains, and are the
first Indian signs we have seen.

*These ores consisted of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which is interspersed
black oxide of copper and stains of malachite. According to Professor Shephard’s
analysis, it only yields five per cent. of copper.

Upon the river, a few miles south of our route, we found specimens of a very
rich ore, which Professor Shephard, after a careful analysis, pronounces to be a
new species, which he has called Marcylite; it was coated with a thin layer of
the rare and beautiful Atacamite (muriate of copper,) and consists of—

alow wie mine asin ine) bids wise aoa impsiaiicmiceeiond ee eae 54. 30
RIPMPEME CANOPINO 2-525 ceca ee cece sms cwcns Se aE NG ae ic ea 36. 20
REE cc eS vcw's eatso eres hte i na Nei Sp ala 9,50

10 WITCHITA MOUNTAINS.

CHAPTER II,

WITcHITA MOUNTAINS~-~PANTHER KILLED—BUFFALO TRACKS—SINGULAR AND UNAC-
COUNTABLE RISE OF WATER—-BUFFALO SIGNS—--HORSE CAPTURED—-RAINS—
ARRIVAL AT OTTER CREEK—-BAROMETER BROKE-—-CHARACTER OF WITCHITA
MOUNTAINS——-BUFFALO KILLED—HIGH WATER.

Soon after we had reached the high prairie ridge upon which we
travelled to-day, we came in sight of the Witchita mountains, some
twenty-five or thirty miles to the north, the chain seeming to be made
up of a series of detached peaks, running from the northeast to the
southwest as far as the eye can reach. Rising as these mountains do
upon the naked prairie, isolated from all other surrounding eminences,
they form a very striking and prominent feature in the topography of
the country. We cannot yet form any definite estimate as to their
height, but shall avail ourselves of the first opportunity to determine this
point.

May 17.—On rising this morning I learned, much to my surprise,
that nearly all our oxen had wandered off during the night, and had
not yet been found. I immediately sent several of the teamsters in
search of them; but after being absent two hours they returned unsuc-
cessful, reporting that they could get no track of them. I then started
with one of our Delawares, and, after going a short distance from camp,
took the track, and following it about a mile came up with the animals,
who had very quietly ensconced themselves in a grove of timber near
the creek.

As they had upon several occasions before given us trouble, and
occasioned the loss of much time, I resolved that in future I would have
them herded until late in the evening, and tie them to the wagons for
the remainder of the night.

As we did not march until very late this morning, we only made
eleven miles, and encamped upon one of the branches of Cache creek.

Our road has continued upon the high ridge lying between Red river
and Cache creek, and has been perfectly firm, smooth, and level.

We have to-day seen the first buffalo tracks. They were made
during the last rains, and are about five days old. We are anxiously
awaiting the time when we shall see the animals themselves, and antici-
pate much sport.

PANTHER KILLED. 11

In the evening, shortly after we had turned out our animals to graze,
and had made everything snug and comfortable about us, ourselves
reclining very quietly after the fatigue of the day’s march, one of the
hunters came into camp and informed us that a panther had crossed the
creek but a short distance above, and was coming towards us. ‘This
piece of intelligence, as may be supposed, created no little excitement
in our quiet circle. Everybody was up in an instant, seizing muskets,
rifles, or any other weapon that came to hand, and, followed by all
the dogs in camp, a very general rush was made towards the spot
indicated by the Delaware. On reaching the place, we found where
the animal, in stepping from the creek, had left water upon his track,
which was not yet dry, showing that he had passed within a short
time. We pointed out the track to several of the dogs, and endea-
vored, by every means which our ingenuity could suggest, to inspire
them with some small degree of that enthusiasm which had animated
us. We coaxed, cheered, and scolded, put their noses into the track,
clapped our hands, pointed in the direction of the trail, hissed, and
made use of divers other canine arguments to convince them that there
was something of importance on hand; but it was all to no purpose.
They did not seem to enter into the spirit of the chase, or to regard
the occasion as one in which there was much glory to be derived from
following in the footsteps of their illustrious predecessor. On the con-
trary, the zeal which they manifested in starting out from camp, sud-
denly abated as soon as their olfactories came in contact with the track,
and it was with very great difficulty that we could prevent them
from running away. At this moment, however, our old bear-dog came
up, and no sooner had he caught a snuff of the atmosphere than, sud-
denly coming to a stop and raising his head into the air, he sent forth
one prolonged note and started off in full cry upon the trail. He led
off boldly into the timber, followed by the other dogs, who had now
recovered confidence, with the men at their heels, cheering them on.
and shouting most vociferously, each one anxious to get the first
glimpse of the panther. They soon roused him from his lair, and after
making a few circuits around the grove, he took to a tree.

I was so fortunate as to reach the spot a little in advance of the
party, and gave him a shot which brought him to the ground. The
dogs then closed in with him, and others of the party coming up directly
afterwards, fired several shots, which took effect and soon placed him
“hors du combat.” He was a fine specimen of the North American
cougar ( Felis concolor,) measuring eight and a half feet from his nose
to the extremity of the tail.

12 SUDDEN RISE OF WATER.

May 18.—At 6 o’clock this morning we resumed our march, taking
a course leading to the crest of the “divide,” as we thereby avoided many
ravines which extended off upon each side towards the streams, and were
always sure.of a good road for our wagons. This ridge runs very nearly
on our course, but occasionally takes us some distance from Red river;
as, for example, our encampment of last night was about nine miles
from the river, and we only came in sight of it once in the course of
our march yesterday.

As soon as the train was under way this morning, Capt. McClellan
and myself crossed over the dividing ridge and rode to Red river. We
found the bed of the stream about seven hundred yards wide; the val-
ley enclosed with high bluffs upon each side; the soil in the bottom
arenaceous, supporting a very spare herbage; and the water very turbid,
and spread over a large surface of sand. The general course of the
river at this point is a few degrees north of west.

We are all in eager expectation of soon falling in with the buffalo,
as we have seen the fresh tracks of quite a large herd to-day. As we
advance, the country away from the borders of the water-courses becomes
more barren, and woodlands are less frequently met with; indeed,
upon the river there is no other timber but cotton-wood (Populus an-
gulata,) and elm (Ulmus Americana,) and these in very small quantities;
for the most part the valley of the river along where we passed to-day is
entirely destitute of trees.

We have seen near here several varieties of birds, among which I ob-
served the meadow lark (Sturnella ludoviciana,) the pinnated grouse or
prairie hen (Zetrao cupido,) the Virginia partridge (Oriya Virginianus,)
the killdeer (Charadrius vociferus,) and several varieties of small birds.
We encamped upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where on our arrival
we found no water except in occasional pools along the bed; however,
in the course of an hour some of the men who had gone a short distance
up the creek came running back into camp and crying, at the top of
their voices, “Here comes a plenty of water for us, boys!” And, indeed,
in a few minutes, much to our astonishment and delight, (as we were
doubtful about having a supply,) a perfect torrent came rushing down
the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the banks, and continued
running, turbid and covered with froth, as long as we remained. Our
Delawares regarded this as a special favor from the Great Spirit, and
looked upon it as a favorable augury to the success of our enterprise.
To us it was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the
last three days had been perfectly dry, with the sky cloudless. If the
stream had been of much magnitude we should have supposed that the

BUFFALO SIGNS. 13

water came from a distance where there had been rains, but it was very
small, extending not more than three miles from the point where we en-
camped.

Our Delawares report that they have seen numerous fresh buffalo
“sions,” and that we shall probably soon come upon the herds. We
have captured a horse to-day which has a brand upon him, and has
probably strayed away from some party of Indians.

May 19.—Last evening the sky became overcast with heavy clouds,
and frequent flashes of lightning were observed near the horizon in the
north and northwest. Atmospheric phenomena of this character are re-
garded by the inhabitants of northern Texas as infallible indications of
rain, and in verification thereof we had a very severe storm during the
night. Much rain has fallen, and the earth has become so soft that I
have concluded to remain here until the ground dries a little, particu-
larly as it still continues raining at intervals and the weather is very
much unsettled. . Frequent rains are very unusual upon the plains at
this.season of the year; the rainy season generally lasts until about the
Ist of May, when the dry season sets in, and there is seldom any more
rain until about the middle of August. The past spring has been un-
commonly dry—so much so, that vegetation has suffered from it: now,
however, the herbage is verdant and the grass most luxuriant.

May 20.—Although it continued raining violently during the night,
and the ground was this morning mostly covered with water, we yet
made an attempt to travel, but found the prairie so soft that it was with
very great difficulty our teams were enabled to drag the wagons over it.
We only made five miles and encamped upon a small affluent of Cache
creek, which with all the small branches in the vicinity were full to the
top of their banks. (We find but few trees along the branch upon which
We are encamped; hackberry and wild china are the only varieties.

On the 21st we again made an effort to travel; but after going a short
distance up the creek, found ourselves obliged, in consequence of the mud,
to encamp and await dry weather.

May 22.—This morning, notwithstanding it was cloudy and the
ground verysfar from being dry, we made another effort to proceed.
Still keeping the high “divide,” we travelled in a westerly direction
about eight miles, when we turned north towards two very prominent
peaks of the Witchita mountains, and continued in this course until we
arrived upon an elevated spot in the prairie, where we suddenly came
in sight of Red river, directly before us. Since we had last seen the
river it had changed its course almost by a right-angle, and here runs
nearly north and south, passing through the chain of mountains in front

14 BAROMETER BROKEN.

of us. . We continued on for four miles further, when we reached a fine,
bold, running creek of good water, which we were all rejoiced to see, as
we had found no drinkable water during the day. We encamped about
four miles above its confluence with Red river.

This stream, which I have called Otter creek, (as those animals are
abundant here,) rises in the Witchita mountains, and runs a course
south, 25° west. There are several varieties of wood upon ats banks,
such as pecan, black-walnut, white ash, elm, hackberry, cotton-wood,
wild china, willow, and mezquite; and among these I noticed good
building timber. The soil in the valley is a dark loam, and produces a
heavy vegetation. The sub-soil is argillaceous. Otter creek is fifty
feet wide, and one foot deep at a low stage of water.* The country
over which we have passed to-day has been an elevated plateau, totally
devoid of timber or water, and the soil very thin and sandy. We have
not yet come in sight of any buffaloes, but have seen numerous fresh
tracks. Antelopes and deer are very abundant, and we occasionally
see turkeys and grouse. Captain McClellan was so unfortunate as to
break his mountain barometer last night, which is much to be re-
gretted; as we had brought it so far in safety, we supposed all danger
was passed, but by some unforeseen accident it was turned over in his
tent and the mercurial tube broken. Fortunately, we have an excel-
Jent aneroid barometer, which we have found to correspond very accu-
rately with the other up to this time, and we = now be obliged to
make use of it exclusively.

On ascending Otter creek this morning as' high as the point where it
debouches from the mountains, I found the timber skirting its banks
the entire distance, and increasing in quantity as it nears the mount-
ains. The mountains at the head of the creek have abrupt rugged
sides of coarse, soft, flesh-colored granite, mixed with other granulated
igneous rocks. Greenstone, quartz, porphyry, and agate are seen in
veins running through the rocks, and in some pieces of quartz which
were found by Doctor Shumard in the bed of the creek, there were
minute particles of gold. As the continued rains have made the ground
too soft to admit of travelling at present, we are improving the time
by laying in a supply of coal, timber, &c., for our journey on the plains.

May 24.—It commenced raining again during the night, and has
continued without cessation all day.

*The temperature of the water in the creek at our encampment we found to
te 72° F.

BUFFALO KILLED. 15

May 25.—It has rained violently during all of last night, and has
not ceased this morning. When this long storm will abate we do not
pretend to form even a conjecture. It has occurred to me that possibly
these rains may fall annually in the basin of Upper Red river; thus,
perhaps, accounting for what is termed the June Rise in the river. As
to the cause of this rise there have been various conjectures; some sup-
posing the river to have its sources in elevated mountain ranges, where
the melting of the snows would produce this result; others, again, con-
sider it to be by rains upon the headwaters of the river. This latter
idea, however, seems rather improbable, as the country west of the Cross
Timbers, so far as known, is generally subjected to very great drought
from May to August. We are now in the immediate vicinity of the
Witchita mountains, and it is possible they may have an effect upon
the weather by condensing the moisture in the atmosphere, and causing
rain in this particular locality.

May 26.—Some of the mduntains which we ascended yesterday
upon the east side of the creek, exhibited a conformation and composi-
tion similar to those upon the west side—that of a coarse, soft, flesh-
colored granite, the peaks conical, occasionally terminating in sharp
points, standing at intervals of from a quarter to one mile apart. In
some instances the rocks are thrown together loosely, but here and
there showing a very imperfect and irregular stratification, with the
seams dipping about twenty degrees with the horizon. The direction
of this mountain chain is about south 60° west, and from five to fifteen
miles in breadth. Its length we are not yet able to determine. Red
river, which passes directly through the western extremity of the chain,
is different in character at the mouth of Otter creek from what it is
below the junction of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. There it is only one hun-
dred and twenty yards wide; the banks of red clay are from three to
eight feet high, the water extending entirely across the bed, and at this
time (a high stage) about six feet deep in the channel, with a rapid
current of four miles per hour, highly charged with a dull-red sedi-
mentary matter, and slightly brackish to the taste. Two buffaloes
were seen to-day, one of which was killed by our guide, John Bash-
man.

Deer and antelopes are plenty, but turkeys are becoming scarce as we
go west; grouse and quail are also occasionally seen here. As Otter
creek continues very high, I intended, if Red river had been fordable,
to have crossed that stream this morning and continued up the south
bank; but we found the water about eight feet deep, and have no other
alternative but to wait until it falls. Along the banks of Red river for

16 MINERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.

the last thirty miles we have observed a range of sand-hills, from ten to
thirty feet high, which appear to have been thrown up by the winds,
and support a very spare vegetation of weeds, grape-vines, and plum-
bushes. Upon the river the timber has diminished so much, that we
now find only here and there a few solitary cotton-woods,

From the fact that the Witchita mountains are composed almost
entirely of granite and other silicious rocks that usually accompany
metallic veins, and that in many places along the range they bear evi-
dent marks of great local disturbance, and from the many detached
specimens of copper ore found upon the surface throughout this region,
I have no doubt but that this will be found, upon examination, to be a
very productive mineral district.

WITCHITAS. 17 a

CHAPTER It.

WHEtTCHITAS-—DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS @F THE COUNTRY IN ADVANCE—PAss 100°
OF LONGITUDE—LEAVE OTTER CREEK—-BERRIES—ELK CREEK—PASS WIT-

CHITA MOUNTAINS—GYPSUM BLUFFS—BUFFALOES SEEN—SUYDAM OREEK-——~CO-
MANCHE SIGNS.

May 27.—As the water still continues at too high a stage for cross-
ing, we moved our camp up the creek about a mile this morning, where
we found better grass for our animals. Shortly after we had pitched
our tents, a large party of Indians made their appearance on the oppo-
site bank, and requested us to cut a tree foe them to cross upon, as they
wished to have “a talk” with “the captain.” TI accordingly had a tall
tree cut, which fell across the stream, when they came over upon it and»
encamped near us.

They proved to be a hunting party of Witchitas, about one hundred
and fifty in number, and were commanded by an old chief, “ Canaje-
Hexie.” They had with them a large number of horses and mules,
heavily laden with jerked buffalo meat, and ten wild horses which they
had lassoed upon the prairie. They said they had been in search of us
for several days; having learned we were coming up Red river, they
were desirous of knowing what our business was in this part of their
country. I replied to them that I was going to the head of Red river,
for the purpose of visiting the Indians, cultivating their friendship, and
delivering to them “a talk” from the Great Captain of all the whites,
who, in token of his kindly feelings, had sent some presents to be dis-
tributed among such of his red children as were friends to Americans ;
and as many of them continue to regard Texas as a separate and inde-
pendent republic, I endeavored to impress upon them the fact that the
inhabitants of that State were of the same nation as the whites in other
parts of the United States. I also told them that all the prairie tribes
would be held responsible for depredations committed against the people
of Texas, as well as elsewhere in our territories. I made inquiries con-
cerning the country through which we still have to pass in our journey.

They said we would find one more stream of good water about two
days’ travel from here; that we should then leave the mountains, and
after that find no more fresh water to the sources of the river. The

chief represented the river from where it leaves the mountains as flow-
2

oO DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS.

ing over an elevated flat prairie country, totally destitute of water, wood,
or grass, and the only substitute for fuel that could be had was the
buffalo “chips.” They remarked in the course of the interview that
some few of their old men had been to the head of the river, and: that
the journey could be made in eighteen days by rapid riding; but the
accounts given by those who had made the journey were of sucha
character as to deter others from attempting it. They said we need
have no apprehension of encountering Indians, as none ever visited that
section of country. I inquired of them if there were not holes im the
earth where the water remained after rains. They said no; that the soil
was of so porous a nature that it soaked up the water as soon as it fell.
Tihen endeavored to hire one of their old men to accompany me as
guide; but they said they were afraid to go into the country, as
there was no water, and they were fearful they would perish before
they could return. The chief said, in conclusion, that perhaps I might
not credit their statements, but that | would have abundant evidence of
the truth of their assertions if I ventured much further with my com-
mand. ‘This account of the country ahead of us is truly discouraging;
and it would seem that we have anything but an agreeable prospect
before us. As soon, however, as the creek will admit of fording, I shall,
without subjecting the command to too great privations, push forward
as far as possible into this most inhospitable and dreaded salt desert.
As the Indians, from their own statements, had travelled a great dis-
tance to see us, I distributed some presents among them, with a few
rations of pork and flour, for which we received their acknowledgments
in their customary style—by begging for everything else they saw.

May 28.—Captain McClellan has, by observations upon lunar dis-
tances, determined the longitude of our last camp upon the creek to be
100° 0’ 45”, which is but a short distance from the point where the line
dividing the Choctaw territory from the State of Texas crosses Red
river. The point where this line intersects Otter creek is marked upon
a large elm tree standing near the bank, and will be found about four
miles from the mouth of the creek upon the south side, with the longi-
tude (100° 0’ 45”) and the latitude (34° 34’ 6”) distinctly marked
upon it.

Captain McClellan will start to-morrow morning for the purpose of
running the meridian of the 100th degree of longitude to where it inter-
sects Red river, and will mark the point distinctly.

May 29.—After digging down the banks of the ereek this morning,
we were enabled to cross the train and to resume our march up the
river; our course led us towards the point where the river debouches

s

PASS THE 100TH DEGREE OF WEST LONGITUDE. 19

from the mountains, and our present encampment is directly at the base
of one of the peaks, near a spring of good water. This mountain is com-
posed of huge masses of loose granite rock, thrown together in such con-
fusion that it is seldom any portion can be seen in its original position.
There are veins of quartz, greenstone, and porphyry running through
the granite, similar to those that characterize the gold-bearing formation
of California, New Mexico, and elsewhere. This fact, in connexion with
our having found some small particles of gold in the detritus along the
bed of Otter creek, may yet lead to the discovery of important auriferous
deposites in these mountains. Among the border settlers of Texas and
Arkansas an opinion has for a long time prevailed that gold was abun-
dant here, and several expeditions have been organized among them for
the purpose of making examinations, but the Indians have opposed their
operations, and in every instance, I believe, compelled them to abandon
the enterprise and return home, so that as yet no thorough examination
of the mountains has ever been made.*

We find blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and currants growing
upon the mountains, and this is the only locality west of the Cross Tim-
bers where I have seenthem. Grapes and plums are also abundant here,
as elsewhere, upon Upper Red river. The grapes are rather smaller than
our fox-grapes, are sweet and juicy when ripe, and I have no doubt
would make good wine: they grow upon small bushes about the size of
currant-bushes, standing erect like them, and are generally found upon
the most sandy soil aloug near the borders of the streams. The plums
also grow upon small bushes from two to six feet high, are very large
and sweet, and in color vary from a light pink to a deep crimson; they
are the Chickasaw plum, ( Prunus chicasa.)

May 39.—Captain McClellan returned this morning, having traced the
meridian of the 100th degree of west longitude to where it strikes Red river.
This point he ascertained to be about six miles below the junction of the
two principal branches, and three-fourths of a mile below a smail creek
which puts in from the north upon the left bank, near where the river
bends from almost due west to north. At this point a cotton-wood tree
standing fifty feet from the water, upon the summit of a sand-hill, is
blazed upon four sides facing north, south, east, and west, and upon

* Specimens of quartz and black sand were collected in the mountains; and from
the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites in the quartz, and from
its similarity to the gold-bearing quartz of California, we were induced to hope
that it might contain gold, but a rigid analysis by Professor Shephard did not
detect any trace of the precious metal.

90 ELK CREEK..

these faces will be found the following inscriptions: upon the north
side, “ Texas, 100° longitude ;” upon the south side, “Choctaw Nation,
100° longitude ;” upon the east side, “ Meridian of 100°, May 29, 1852 ;”
and upon the west side Captain McClellan marked my name, with the
date. At the base of the sand-hill will be found four cotton-wood trees,
upon one of which is marked “Texas,” and upon another will be found
inscribed “20 miles from Otter creek.”

Red river at this place is a broad, shallow stream, six hundred and
fifty yards wide, running over a bed of sand. Its course is nearly due
west to the forks, and thence the course of the south branch is WNW.
for eight miles, when it turns to nearly NW. The two branches are
apparently of about equal magnitude, and between them, at the conflu-
ence, is a very high bluff, which can be seen for a long distance around,
We are encamped to-night near two mountains about three miles from,
the river, and one mile west of the head of the west branch of Otter creek
near a spring of pure cold water, which rises in the mountains and runs
down past our camp. Our road leads along near the creek valley, which
is from one to two miles wide, with a very productive soil, covered with
a dense coating of grass, and skirted with a variety of hard timber.

May 31.—Our course to-day was northwest until we encountered a
bold running stream of good water, forty feet wide and three feet deep,
flowing between very high and almost vertical red clay banks, through
a broad, flat valley about two miles wide, of a dark. alluvial soil, the
fertility of which is obvious from the dense vegetation which it
supports.

There is a narrow fringe of pecan, elm, hackberry, black walnut, and
cotton-wood, along the banks of the creek; but the timber is not so
abundant, or of as good a quality, as that upon Otter creek. The
abrupt banks made it necessary for us to let our wagons down with
ropes. We, however, crossed in a short time, and marched about three
miles further, encamping near a small spring of good water, where the
wood and grass were abundant.

From the circumstance of having seen elk tracks upon the stream we
passed in our march to-day, I have called it “Elk creek.” Iam in-
formed by our guide that five years since, elk were frequently seen in
the Witchita mountains; but now they are seldom met with in this part
the country.

The deer and antelopes still continue plenty, but turkeys are scarce.
One that our grayhounds caught to-day is the first we have seen for
several days. The pinnated grouse, quail, lark, mocking-bird, and
swallow-tailed fly-catcher, are also frequently seen.

SALT FORK. oT

June 1.—During our march to-day we passed along the borders of a
swift running rivulet of clear water which issues from springs in the
mountains, and is filled with a multitude of fish. We also passed near
the base of a very prominent and symmetrical mountain, which can be
seen for twenty miles upon our route, and is a most excellent landmark.
Several of the gentlemen ascended this peak with the barometer, and
its altitude, as thereby indicated, is seven hundred and eighty feet above
the base. ; Z

Captain McClellan has called this “Mount Webster,” in honor of our
great statesman; and upon a rock directly at the summit he has chiselled
the names of some of the gentlemen of the party. The valleys lying
between many of these mountains have a soil which is arable in the
highest degree. They are covered with grasses, which our animals eat
greedily. There are also many springs of cold, limpid water bursting
out from the granite rocks of the mountains, and flowing down through
the valleys, thereby affording us, at all times, a most delicious beverage
where we were led to believe, from the representations of the Wichitas,
we would find only bitter and unpalatable water. This is an unexpected
luxury to us, and we now begin to cherish the hope that all the discour-
aging accounts of those Indians may prove equally erroneous.

Taking an old Comanche trail this morning, I followed it to a narrow
defile in the mountains, which led me up through a very tortuous and
rocky gorge, where the well-worn path indicated that it had been tray-
elied for many years. It presented a most wild and romantic appearance
as we passed along at the base of cliffs which rose perpendicularly for
several hundred feet directly over our heads upon either side. We saw
the tracks of several elk that had passed the defile the day previous.

After crossing the mountains, we descended upon the south side, where
we found the river flowing directly at the base; and after ascending it
about two miles, arrived at a point where it again divided into two
nearly equal branches. The water in the south branch (which I have
called “Salt Fork”) is bitter and unpalatable, and when taken into the
stomach produces nausea; whereas that in the other branch, although
not entirely free from salts, can be used in cases of great extremity.
The compound resulting from the mixture of the water in the two
branches below the confluence, is very disagreeable to the taste. The.
north branch, which I propose to ascend, is, near the junction, one hun-
dred and five feet wide, and three feet deep, with a very rapid current,
and the water of much lighter color than that in the Salt Fork. Three
miles below the fork, between the river and the base of the mount-
ains, there is a grove of post-oak timber, which Captain McClellan,

99 APPEARANCE OF GYPSUM.

who examined it, estimates to cover an area of four or five hundred
acres. This is well suited for building purposes, being large, tall, and
straight. There is also an extensive tract of mezquite woodland near
our camp.

One of the Delawares caught two bear cubs in the mountains to-day ;
one of which he brought in his arms to camp. As the mountain chain
crosses the river near here, and runs to the south of our course, we
shall leave it to-morrow, and launch out into the prairie before us, fol-
lowing up the bank of the river, which appears to flow through an
almost level and uninterrupted plain as far as the eye can extend. I
have provided water-casks of sufficient capacity to contain water for the
command for three days. I shall always have them filled whenever we
find good water; and I hope thereby to be enabled to reach the sources
of the river without much suffering. I cannot leave these mountains
without a feeling of sincere regret. The beautiful and majestic scenery
throughout the whole extent of that portion of the chain we have
traversed, with the charming glades lying between them, clothed with a
luxuriant sward up to the very bases of the almost perpendicular and
rugged sides, with the many springs of delicious water bursting forth
from the solid walls of granite, and bounding along over the debris at
the base, forcibly reminds me of my own native hills, and the idea of
leaving these for the desert plains gives rise to an involuntary feeling of
melancholy similar to that I have experienced on leaving home.

June 2.—We left our last night’s camp at 3 o’clock this morning,

and taking a course nearly due west, emerged from the mountains out
into the high level prairie, where we found neither wood nor water until
we reached our present position, about half a mile from Red river, upon
a small branch with water standing in holes in the bed, and a few
small trees scattered along the banks. The latitude at this point is
35° 3’; longitude 100° 12’.
* On leaving the vicinity of the mountains, we immediately strike a
different geological formation. Instead of the granite, we now find
carbonate of lime and gypsum. The soil, except upon the streams, is
thin and unproductive. The grass, however, is everywhere luxuriant.
Our animals eat it eagerly, and are constantly improving. Near our
encampment there are several round, conical-shaped mounds, about
fifty feet high, composed of clay and gypsum, which appear to have
been formed from a gradual disintegration and washing away of the
adjacent earth, leaving the sides exposed in such a manner as to exhibit
a very perfect representation of the different strata.

COPPER ORE. 23

June 3.—We were in motion again at 3 o’clock this morning, our
course leading us directly towards a very prominent range of hills
situated upon the north bank of Red river, and immediately on the
erest of the third terrace or bench bordering the river valley. Their
peculiar formation, and very extraordinary regularity, give them the
appearance, in the distance, of gigantic fortifications, capped with bat-
tlements of white marble. Upon examination they were found to con-
sist of a basis of green or blue clay, with two super-strata of beautiful
snow-white gypsum, from five to fifteen feet in thickness, resting hori-
zontally upon a sub-stratum of red clay, with the edges wholly exposed,
and so perfectly symmetrical that one can with difficulty divest himself
of the idea that it must be the work of art, so much does it resemble
masonry. In many places there are perfect representations of the re-
entering angles of a bastion front, with the glacis revetted with turf, and
sloping gently to the river. Several springs issue from the bluffs, and
(as I have always found it to be the case in the gypsum formation) the
water is very bitter and disagreeable to the taste.

I am inclined to believe that this same formation extends in a south-
westerly direction from the Canadian river to this place, as I passed
through a belt of country upon that stream somewhat similar to this,
and in a position to be a continuation of it. We crossed the river near
the lower extremity of the bluffs at a point where we found it fifty
yards wide and sixteen inches deep, with a current of three miles per
hour, running over a bed of quick- ‘sand. We passed without difficulty
by keeping the animals in rapid motion while in the stream, and en-
eamped upon the high bluff on the south side. By following up the
course of a ravine in the side of the gypsum bluffs, where there were
detached pieces of copper ore, we discovered a vein of this metal which
proved to be the “green carbonate,” but not of so rich a character as
that we had seen before. At this point we are nearly opposite the
western extremity of the chain of Witchita mountains.*

* Professor Shephard’s analysis of a specimen of the sub-soil from the valley of
the river near our camp on the third June, gives the following result:

ee ee a eer one nate arias <laie 79. 30
ee nnnmnern Et: fo eae OY Ee ele ie WS ee Be he 8.95
PME lee OG ae ges. lee ee es 1.50
ti a Ae os Pek a Low eo hb cede 1.10

Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and chloride of
00 Ser eS Se ee ee oe ee

24 BUFFALOES SEEN.

June 4.—We made an early start this morning, and travelled én the
direction of a chain of blufts which appeared to us to be upon the
branch of the river we were ascending; but on reaching them we found
ourselves upon a creek running towards the Salt Fork, the bluffs of
which we could see from the top of an eminence near the creek, about
eight miles distant.

To regain our route we were obliged to turn directly north, and
march about six miles in this direction, when we again came in sight of
the main Vorth Fork. In our route we have passed near several hills
of similar formation to that of the gypsum bluffs before described. Sul-
phate of lime is found in large quantities throughout this section, and
occurs in various degrees of purity, from the common plaster of Paris
to the most beautifully transparent selenite I have ever seen. I ob-
served several specimens, from one to two inches in thickness, that were
as absolutely colorless and limpid as pure water.

We are encamped upon the elevated prairie near a clump of trees,
where we find water standing in pools. We have found the grass
abundant, and the water and wood sufficiently so for our purposes at
all our camps since we left our visitors, the Witchitas.

As I was riding to-day with one of our Delawares, about three miles
in advance of the train, we suddenly (as we rose upon an eminence in
the prairie) came in sight of four buffalo cows with calves, very quietly
grazing in a valley below us. We at once put spurs to our horses, and,
with our rifles in readiness, set out at a brisk gallop in pursuit; but, un-
fortunately, they had “the wind” of us, and were instantly bounding
off over the hills at full speed. We followed them about three miles, -
but as they were much in advance at the outset we could not overtake
them without giving our horses more labor than we cared about, and so
abandoned the chase. Our grayhounds caught two young deer upon
the open prairie to-day, and they have had several chases in pursuit ot
the antelope, but have not as yet been able to come up with them. The
latitude of our present position is 85° 15’ 43”.

June 5.—After marching nearly a mile from our last camp, we
crossed a running brook of clear water, which had a slightly sulphurous
taste and odor. It rises in the hills to the southwest and runs rapidly,
like a mountain stream, into the main river. The appearance of this
stream reminded me so forcibly of some I have seen in the mountains
of Pennsylvania, that I searched it faithfully, expecting to see the
spotted trout, but only found a few sun-fish and minnows.

From this brook to our present position, the country we traversed
was exceedingly monotonous and uninteresting, being a continuous sue-

SUYDAM CREEK. 95

cession of barren sand-hills, producing no other herbage than the arte-
misia, and a dense growth of dwarf oak bushes, about eighteen inches
high, which seem to have attained their full maturity, and bear an
abundance of small acorns. The same bush is frequently met with
upon the Canadian river, near this longitude, and is always found upon
a very sandy soil. Our camp is in the river valley near a large spring
of sulphurous water, in the midst of a grove of cotton-wood trees.
Upon a creek we passed to-day on the opposite bank of the river we
noticed pecan, elm, hackberry, and cotton-wood trees. The grass still
continues good, and the water of the main river, although not good,
can be used. The bed of the river 8 here one hundred yards wide,
with but little water passing over the surface, being mostly absorbed by
the quick-sands. Our Indians brought in three deer this evening, and
the grayhounds have caught a full-grown doe in a fair chase upon the
open prairie. We occasionally see a few turkeys, but they are not as
abundant as we found them below here. There are several varieties of
birds around our camp—among which we saw the white owl, meadow-
lark, mocking-bird, king-bird, swallow, swallow-tailed fly-catcher, and
quail.

June 6.—Starting at 3 o’clock this morning, we crossed the river
near our last camp, and passed over a very elevated and undulating
prairie for ten miles, when we reached a large creek flowing into Red
river, which, in compliment to my friend Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New
York city, who accompanied the expedition, I have called “Suydam
creek.” It is thirty feet wide; the water clear, but slightly brackish,
and flows rapidly over a sandy bed between abrupt clay banks, which
are fringed with cotton-wood trees. As the water in the main river
near our camp is very bitter, we were obliged to make use of that in
the creek.

Above our present encampment there appears to be a range of sand-
hills, about three miles wide, upon each side of the river, which are
covered with the same herbage as those we passed below here.

We have seen the trail of a large party of Comanches, which our
guide says passed here two days since, going south. I regret that we
did not encounter them, as I was anxious to make inquiries concerning
our onward route. These Indians were travelling with their families,
Upon a war expedition they leave their families behind, and never carry
lodges, encumbering themselves with as little baggage as possible. On
the other hand, when they travel with their families, they always carry
all their worldly effects, including their portable lodges, wherever they
go; and as they seldom find an encampment upon the prairies where

26 COMANCHE SIGNS.

poles for the frame-work of the lodges can be procured, they invariably
transport them from place to place, by attaching them to each side of
the pack-horses, with one end trailing upon the ground. These leave
parallel marks upon the soft earth after they have passed, and enable
one at once to determine whether the trail is made by a war party or
otherwise. The Comanches, durmg the past year, have not been
friendly with the Delawares and Shawnees; and although there has as
yet been no organized demonstration of hostilities, they have secretly
kulled several men, and in consequence our hunters entertain a feeling
of revenge towards them. They, however, go out alone every day upon
their hunts, are frequently six of eight miles from the command, and
seem to have no fears of the Comanches, as they are liable to encounter
them at any moment; and being so poorly mounted that they could
not escape, their only alternative would be to act on the defensive. I
have cautioned them upon the subject several times, but they say that
they are not afraid to meet any of the prairie Indians, provided the
odds are not greater than six to one. They are well armed with good —
rifles—the use of which they understand perfectly—are intelligent,
active, and brave, and in my opinion will ere long take ample satisfac-
tion upon the Comanches for every one of their nation that falls by
their hands.

A

BUFFALO CHASE. 97

CHAPTERIV.

Burrato CHASE—SWEET WATER CREEK—COMANCHE CAMPS-——PREVAILING WINDS-——
INDIANS SEEN—METHOD OF ENCAMPING—WONDERFUL POWERS OF THE DELA-
WARES—BEAVER DAMS—KIOWAY CREEK,

June 7.—Taking two of the Indians this morning, I went out for the
purpose of making an examination of the surrounding country and
ascertaining whether good water could be found upon our route for our
next encampment. We had gone about three miles in a westerly direc-
tion, when we struck a fresh buffalo track leading north; thinking we
might overtake him, we followed up the trace until we came near the
summit of an eminence upon the prairie, when I sent one of the Indians
(John Bull) to the top of the hill, which was about one-fourth of a mile
distant, to look for the animal. He had no sooner arrived at the point
indicated than we saw him make a signal for us to join hin, by riding
around rapidly several times in a circle and immediately putting off at
full speed over the hills. We set out at the same instant upon a smart
gallop, and on reaching the crest of the hill discovered the terrified
animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John Bull in hot pursuit
about five hundred yards behind him. As we followed on down the
prairie we had a fine view of the chase. The Delaware was mounted
upon one of our most fractious and spirited horses, that had never seen
a buffalo before, and on coming near the animal he seemed perfectly
frantic with fear, making several desperate surges to the right and left,
any one of which must have inevitably unseated his rider had he not been
a most expert and skilful horseman. During the time the horse was
plunging and making such efforts to escape, John, while he controlled
him with masterly adroitness, seized an opportunity and gave the buffalo
the contents of his rifle, breaking one of his fore-legs, and somewhat
retarding his speed: he still kept on, however, making good running,
and it required all the strength of our horses to bring us alongside of
him. Before we came up our most excellent hunter, John Bull, had
recharged his rifle and placed another ball directly back of the shoulder ;
but so tenacious of his life is this animal, that it was not until the other
Delaware and myself arrived and gave him four additional shots, that
we brought him to the ground. Packing the best pieces of the meat
upon our horses, we went on, ‘and in a few miles found a spring-brook,
in which there was an abundance of good water, where I determined to

28 LOESS CREEK. ©

make our next encampment. On our return we saw a pack of wolves,
with a multitude of ravens, making merry over the carcass of the buffalo
we had killed in the morning.

Thinking that the Comanches, whose trail we had seen yesterday»

might possibly be encamped within a few miles of us, I this morning
directed Captain McClellan to take the interpreter and follow the trace.
After going about fifteen miles he found one of their camps that had
been abandoned two days previous; and as there was no prospect of
overtaking them he returned, after ascertaining that they were travelling
a southerly course towards the Brazos river.
_ In many places above the Witchita mountains we have found drift of
quartz and scoria, but the boulders of greenstone, granite, and porphyry,
were only seen below the upper end of the range; and the nearer we
approached the mountains from below, the larger and more angular
became the fragments, until, on reaching near the base, large angular
pieces nearly covered the surface of the ground, thereby leading us to
the conclusion that here is the source of the boulders we have seen
below the mountains, whereas the drift found here must come from
above, as we have yet discovered no igneous rocks in place since we left
the mountains. The formation here is a dark limestone overlaid with
loose scoria. The earth upon the stream is highly arenaceous, and the
soil poor. The grass, however, as we have found it everywhere upon
Red river and its tributaries, is of a very superior quality, consisting of
several varieties of grama and mezquite.

The range of the grama grass, so far as my observations have ex-
tended, is bounded on the north by near the parallel of 36° north latitude,
and on the east by about the meridian of 98° west longitude. It ex-
tends south and west, as far as I have travelled; it appears, however, to
flourish better in about the latitude of 33° than in any other. As there
is generally a drought on these prairies from about the 1st of May to
the middle of August, it would appear that the particular varieties of
grasses that grow here do not require much moisture to sustain them.

June 8—Our route to-day has been over a rolling prairie, in many
places covered with the dwarf oak bushes before mentioned. We ares
encamped upon a creek of clear and wholesome water, which Dr. Shu-
mard has named “Loess creek,” from the circumstance that the soil
upon the stream contains a deposite of land and fresh-water shells,
among which are found those of Pupa muscorum, Succinea elongata,
and Helix plebevum, forming a pulverent grayish loam similar to the
loess found upon the Rhine.

fs

SWEET-WATER CREEK. 99

No fossils were seen in this silt, but our time would not admit of
making avery thorough examination of the locality. Specimens of the
shells were, however, procured, to accompany our collection, and were
found to be similar to those described by Lyell as occurring in Europe.

The creek is twenty feet wide and eight inches deep; runs rapidly
between low banks, with only a few cotton-wood and elm trees upon
them. There are also some few small knots or clumps of trees upon the
elevated prairie lands in the vicinity. The observations for latitude,at
this point give the result 35° 24’ 50”.

June 9.—At half-past 2 o’clock this morning we were en route
again over a very elevated prairie for six miles, when we arrived in the
valley of a fine stream of pure water, twelve feet wide and one foot deep,
with a rapid current. This stream is fringed by large cotton-wood
trees along the banks, and the grass in the valley is most excellent,
consisting of the mesquite and wild rye, which our animals are very
fond of. From the fact of the water being so good in this stream, we
called it Sweet-water creek. The valley is bordered upon each side by
bluffs from ten to forty feet high; the soil a reddish loam and quite
productive, being somewhat similar in appearance to that in the bottoms
of Red river below the confluence of the Witchita, where the most
abundant crops are produced.

As we ascend the river we have conclusive evidence of the falsity of
the representations of our visitorsthe Witchitas. It will be remembered
they told us that the entire country was a perfectly desolate waste,
where neither man nor beast could get subsistence, and that there was
no danger from Indians, as none ever resorted to this section of Red
river. Their statements have proved false in every particular, as we
have thus far found the country well watered, the soil in many places
good, everywhere yielding an abundance of the most nutritious grasses,
with a great sufficiency of wood for all the purposes of the traveller.

There are several old camps near us, which appear to have been occu-
pied some two or three weeks since by the Comanches: the grass where
' their animals have grazed is not yet grown up.

Red river, which is about six miles distant from our present position,
is eighty yards wide, with but a very small portion covered with water,
running over the quick-sand bed. The banks upon each side are from
four to ten feet high, and not subject to inundation. The valley is
here about half a mile wide, shut in by sandy bluffs thirty feet high,
which form the border to a range of sand-hills extending back about
five miles upon each side of the river. The soil in the valley is sandy
and sterile, producing little but scattering weeds and stunted brush.

30 MODE OF ENCAMPING.

June 10.—Our course to-day has been almost due west, up the north
bank of Sweet-water creek. The country upon each side of the valley
is high and gently undulating, and the geological formation has changed
from deep-red sandstone to carboniferous limestone.

The weather for the last four days has been very cold, as will be seen
from the meteorological tables appended ; indeed, I think I have never
in this latitude known the thermometer to range as low at this season.
Upon the plains where I have heretofore travelled during the summer
months, a strong breeze has generally sprung up about 8 o’clock im the
morning and lasted until after night, reaching its maximum intensity
about 3 o’clock in the afternoon. This breeze comes from the south,
and generally rises and subsides with as much regularity as the sea-
breeze upon the Atlantic coast, which fact has given rise to the opinion
that it comes from the Gulf of Mexico. These cool and bracing winds
temper the atmosphere, heated to intensity by the almost vertical rays
of the sun, rendering it comfortable and even pleasant in midsummer.
Observations were made this evening for the determination of latitude,
and the result showed 35° 26’ 13.”

June 11.—We crossed Sweet-water creek at 3 o’clock this morning,
and, keeping back upon the high prairie bordering the valley, travelled
eight miles in nearly a west course, when we crossed two fresh Indian
trails, which, from the circumstance of there being no trace of lodge-
poles, our guide pronounced to have ken made by war parties; and he
states that he has during the day seen four Indians upon a hill in the
distance taking a look at us, but that they turned immediately on seeing
him and galloped off. The fact of their not being disposed to com-
municate with us looks suspicious, and they may have hostile intentions
towards us; but with our customary precautions, I think we shall be
ready to receive them, either as friends or enemies.

Our usual method of encamping is, where we can find the curve of a
creek (which has generally been the case,) to place ourselves in the con-
cavity, with the wagons and tents extending around in a semi-circle,
uniting at each extremity of the curve of the creek so as to enclose a
sufficient space for the command; thus we are protected on one side
by the creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. n-
mediately after reaching our camping-ground, all the animals are turned
out to graze, under charge of the teamsters, who are armed and remain
constantly with them, keeping them as near the command as the supply
of grass will permit. We generally commence the day’s march about
3 o’clock in the morning, and are ready to encamp by 11 o’elock; this
gives ample time for the animals to graze before night, when they are

©

RESORT OF INDIANS. ol

driven into camp. The horses and mules are picketed within the en-
closure, while the oxen are tied up to the wagons; sentinels are then
posted upon each side of the encampment, and kept constantly walking
in such directions that they may have the animals continually in view.

Many have supposed that cattle in a journey upon the plains would
perform better and keep in better condition by allowing them to graze
in the morning before starting upon the day’s march, which would
involve the necessity of travelling during the heat of the day. These
persons are of opinion that animals will only feed at particular hours of
the day, and. that the remainder of the day must be allotted them for
rest and sleep, and that unless these rules are adhered to they will not
thrive. This opinion, however, is, I think, erroneous, and I also think
that cattle will adapt themselves to any circumstances so far as regards
their working hours and their hours of rest. If they have been ac-
customed to labor at particular hours of the day, and the order of things
is at once reversed, the working hours being changed into hours of rest,
they may not do as well for a few days, but they soon become accus-
tomed to the change, and eat and rest as well as before.

By starting at an early hour in the morning during the summer
months, the day’s march is over before it becomes very warm; whereas,
(as I have observed) if the animals are allowed time to graze before
starting, the march must continue during the middle of the day, when
the animals (particularly oxen) will suffer much from the heat of the
sun, and, so far as my experience goes, will not keep in as good condi-
tion as when the other plan is pursued. I have adopted this course from
the commencement of our journey, and our oxen have continued to
improve upon it. Another and very important advantage to be derived
from this course is found in the fact that the animals, being tied up
during the night, are not liable to be lost or stolen.

The cguntry over which we are now passing, except directly in the
valleys of the streams, is very elevated and undulating, interspersed with
round conical hills, thrown up by the winds, with the apices very acute ;
the soil, a light gray sand, producing little other vegetation than weeds
and dwarf oaks.

The creek up which we have been travelling runs almost parallel to
Red river, and affords us fine camping-places at any point.

From the very many old Indian camps that we have seen, and the
numerous stumps of trees which at different pericds have been cut by
the Indians along the whole course of the creek, we infer that this 1s,
and has been for many years, a place of frequent resort for the Coman-
ches, and I have no doubt they could always be found here at the time

.

32 SAGACITY OF INDIANS.

the buffaloes are passing back and forth in their migrations during the
spring and winter.

The parties of Indians whose trails we crossed in our march to-day
were going south, and not having their families with them, our inter-
preter infers that they are bound for Mexico upon a foray. Had we
met them and learned that such was their intention, we might perhaps
have dissuaded them from proceeding further. They may have seen
our trail: if so, and they are friendly, they will visit us. Should they
not come in, however, I shall send out an Indian after them to
ascertain where they encamped and the time they left. In consequence
of their known hostility, our Delawares are getting somewhat cautious
about encountering them. The interpreter says he would not be afraid
to meet five or six, but thinks he would avoid a greater number. I
directed him, in the event of his meeting a party, to invite them to come
to camp, as I hada talk for them. He replied, “Suppose he want to kill
me—lI not tell him.”

This man has often been among the prairie Indians, understands their
language and character well, and the moment he sees a trail made by
them, or an old deserted camp, he at once determines of what nation
they were; the number of horses and mules in their possession; whether
they were accompanied by their families, and whether they were upon
a war expedition or otherwise; as also the time (within a few hours)
of their passing, with many other facts of importance.

These faculties appear to be intuitive, and confined exclusively to the
Indian: I have never seen a white man that could judge of these matters
with such certainty as they. For example, upon passing the trail of
the Indians to-day, one of our Delawares looked for a moment at the
foot-prints, picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed, and said
the trail was made two days since, when to us it had every appearance
of being quite fresh; subsequent observations satisfied us that he was
correct.

Upon another occasion, in riding along over the prairie, I saw in the
sand what appeared to me to be a bear-track, with the impression of all
of the toes, foot, and heel; on pointing it out to one of the Indians, he
instantly called my attention to some blades of grass hanging about ten
inches over the marks, and explained to me that while the wind is
blowing, these blades are pressed towards the earth, and the oscillation
thereby produced had scooped out the light sand into the form I have
mentioned. This, when explained, was perfectly simple and intelligible ;
but I am very much inclined to believe the solution of it would imine
puzzled the philosophy of a white man for a long time, '

BEAVERS. oo

A few such men as the Delawares attached to each company of troops
upon the Indian frontier would, by their knowledge of Indian character
and habits, and their wonderful powers of judging of country, following
tracks, &e., (which soldiers cannot be taught) enable us to operate to
much better advantage against the prairie tribes. In several instances
when we have had our animals stray away from camp, I have sent six
or eight teamsters for them, who, after searching a long time, would
often return unsuccessful. I would then send out one Indian, who would
make a circuit around the camp until he struck the tracks of the lost
animals, and following them up, would invariably return with them in
a short time. In this way their services are almost indispensable upon
an expedition like ours.

June 12.—Our course to-day was very nearly due west, up the left
bank of Sweet-water creek, until, within about three miles of our present
position, we turned with the course of the stream more northwardly.

The country we passed over was similar to that of yesterday, but not
so sandy or so heavy upon our teams. We came in sight of a line of
high bluffs this morning, which were apparently about ten miles to the
northwest of us. They are very elevated, and present much the appear-
ance of the borders of the great Staked Plain, or the “Llano estacado”
of the Mexicans.

On reaching camp we found that a large party of Indians, with very
many animals, had been encamped here about two weeks since. Nu-
merous trails and horse tracks were seen in every direction, and their
animals have cropped the grass for a long distance around.

Their lodges were pitched near our camp, and our guide pronounced
them to have been Kioways. On inquiring how he could distinguish a
Kioway from a Comanche camp, he said the only difference was that
the former make the holes for their fires about two feet in diameter,
while the latter only make them about fifteen inches.

A community of beavers have also selected a spot upon the creek
near our camp, for their interesting labors and habitations. I know of
no animal concerning which the accounts of travellers have been more
extraordinary, more marvellous or contradictory, than those given of
the beaver. By some he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a
level with man. He has been said, for instance, to construct houses,
with several floors and rooms; to plaster the rooms with mud in suck
a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six or eight
inches in diameter into the ground, and to perform many other astound-
ing feats, which I am inclined to believe are not supported by credible
testimony. Laying aside these questionable statements, there is quite

3

34 RED RIVER.

sufficient in th¢ natural history of the beaver to excite our wonder and
admiration. i or instance, at this place, upon an examination of the
dam they have constructed, I was both astonished and delighted at the
wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they have displayed.
In the selection of a suitable sight, and in the erection of the structure,
they appear to have been guided by something more than mere animal
instinct, and have exhibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and
the action of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scien-
tific millwright would have done. Having chosen a spot where the
banks on each side of the creek were narrow and sufficiently high to
raise a head of about five feet, they selected two cotton-wood trees about
fifteen inches in diameter, situated above this point, and having an in-
clination towards the stream: these they cut down with their teeth, (as
the marks upon the stumps plainly showed,) and, floating them down to-
the position chosen for the dam, they were placed across the stream
with an inclination downward, uniting in the centre.’ This formed the
foundation upon which the superstructure of brush and earth was placed,
in precisely the same manner as a brush dam is made by our mill-
wrights, with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the
butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is raised toa
sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, except in the centre,
where there is a sluice or waste-wier, which lets off the superfluous water
when it rises so high as to endanger the structure. In examining the
results of the labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me
that the plan of erecting our brush dams must have been originally
suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are very similar.
I watched for some time upon the banks of the pond, but could see
none of the animals. I presume they think we make too much noise
in our camp tosuit them, and deem it most prudent to remain concealed
in their sub-marine houses.

I observed one place above the pond where they had commenced
another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut down two trees on
opposite sides of the creek; but as they did not fall in the right direction
to suit their purposes, the work was abandoned. As the course of Sweet-
water creek turns too much to the north above here, we shall leave it;
and it is with much regret that we are obliged to do so, as it has
afforded us the best of spring water, with good grass and wood, for five
days.

_ June 13,—Leaving the command this morning encamped upon
Sweet-water creek, I made a trip to Red river, which is about six miles
in a southwest direction; it was one hundred yards wide where we

RIVER TERRACES. BY5)

struck it, with but a very small portion covered with water, and, very
much to our astonishment, for the first time, upon tasting it, we found
it free from salts. Following up the stream about a mile, we discovered
that this good water all issued from a small stream that put in upon
the north bank, and above this the bed of the main river was dry. As
there is an incrustation of salt upon the bed of the river below the creek,
where the water has subsided after a high stage, I have no doubt but
that the water above here will be found to be impregnated with salts,
_and that all the fresh water now found in the river comes from the
ereek mentioned.

Along the whole course of Red river, from Cache creek to this point,
we find three separate banks or terraces bordering the river; the first of
which rises from-two to six feet above the bed of the stream. The
second is from ten to twenty feet high; and the third, which forms the
high bluff bordering the valley of the river, is from fifty to one hundred
feet. The first bank is in places subject to inundation, and generally is
from fifty to two hundred yards wide. The second is never submerged,
and is from two to fifteen hundred yards wide. The third bank bounds
the high prairie. We found the range of sand-hills still continuing
along the river; and we have constantly during the day been in sight
of the line of bluffs which I supposed to be the border of the “Llano
estacado.” We also passed the trail of a very large party of Indians,
who were ascending the river before the last rain, (some two weeks
since.)

After leaving the river on our return to camp, we found two fine
brooks of cold spring water, with good wood and grass upon them, and
as they are in our course I propose to make our next camp upon one of
them.

June 14.—Making an early start this morning, we travelled eleven
miles in a westerly course, when we reached a very beautiful stream of
good spring water, flowing with a uniformly rapid current through a
valley about a mile wide, covered with excellent grass. There is a heavy
growth of young cotton-wood trees along the borders of the creek, and
among them are found immense quantities of that peculiar variety of
grape I have before mentioned as growing in the sand-hills along the
valley of Red river. They grow here upon low bushes about four feet
high, similar to those cultivated varieties that are trimmed and cut
down in the spring. When growing near the trees they never rest
upon them, like our eastern varieties of the wild grape, but stand
separate and erect, likea currant-bush.

36 ANTI-SCORBUTICS.

This creek appears to be a place of winter resort for large numbers
of the prairie Indians. We found many old camps along the stream,
and the ground for several miles was thickly strewn with cotton-wood
sticks, the bark of which had been eaten off by their animals. The
prairie tribes are in the habit of feeding their favorite horses with the
cotton-wood bark in the winter; and it is probably the abundance of
this wood that has attracted them here. We found the stumps of the
trees they had cut from year to year in various stages of decay—some
entirely rotten, and others that had been cut during the past winter.
The fine mezquite and grama grass furnishes pasturage for their ani-
mals during a great part of the winter; and the cotton-wood is a never-
failing resort when the grass is gone.

As we are’ now nearly opposite the country on the Canadian river
occupied by the Kioway Indians, it is quite probable that some of that
nation winter at this place; and I have no doubt but that they could
be found here at any time during that season. I have called the creek
EKioway creek,

Game is abundant in this vicinity; and our hunters keep the entire
command constantly supplied with fresh meat, so that we have not yet
had occasion to kill one of our beef-cattle. Seven deer and one antelope
were killed to-day. For months previous to leaving Fort Belknap, with
the exception of a few wild onions, my men had eaten no vegetables.
Some of them had been attacked with scurvy, and all were more or less
predisposed to it. I have, therefore, been exceedingly anxious to take all
possible precautions for warding off this most dreaded disease. As I
had no anti-scorbutic, with the exception of a very few dried apples and
a little citric acid, I was obliged to make use of everything the country
afforded as a substitute for vegetables. I caused the men to eat greens
whenever they could be obtained, with the green grapes occasionally;
and to-day we were so fortunate as to discover a fine bed of wild onions
(a most excellent anti-scorbutic) upon some sand-hills over which we
passed, A quantity were collected by the men and made use of freely.

KIOWAY ENCAMPMENT. 37

CHAPTER V.

REACH THE SOURCE OF THE NORTH BRANCH OF RED RIVER—BOTTLE BURIED—
ARRIVED UPON THE CANADIAN—DEPARTURE FOR MIDDLE FORK-——INDIAN BATTLE-
GROUND—PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS—SOURCE OF THE MIDDLE FORK-——SOUTH FORK—
PRAIRIE-DOGS.

June 15.—On account of the morning being dark and the clouds
threatening rain, we did not leave camp until daylight this morning.
We, however, made a good day’s march over a very heavy sandy
country, and after crossing the main river, encamped upon the south
bank.

During the day we crossed several small branches, in which we found
good water; and in several places where there was timber upon them,
we saw old Indian camps. At one place I noticed a large grove of
cotton-wood which had been entirely enclosed with a brush fence by
the Indians: this was probably made for the purpose of keeping their
animals from straying away.

On reaching the river we found that it had very much diminished in
magnitude since we had last seen it. It was now only fifteen yards
wide, the water clear, and to the taste entirely free from salts.

The herbage for the last twenty miles of our march has suffered much
from drought, and the grass in many places upon the elevated lands is
entirely burnt up. We, however, continue to find excellent grass in the
valleys near the borders of the small streams, and upon the river itself.
The only varieties of timber that we find upon this part of Red river are
cotton-wood and hackberry, the former greatly predominating and of
large dimensions. Indeed, I have never seen so much timber at any
other place upon the plains, in this longitude, as we find here.

We have had the line of high bluffs in sight before us all day, and
we are now within afew miles of them. The geological formation
through the country over which we are passing is a light-colored calca-
reous sandstone, covered with a drift of quartz and scoria.

Near our present position, upon the opposite side of the river, there
has been a very large band of Kioways encamped, about two weeks since,
and their animals have cropped much of the grass for several miles
around us. From the:multitude of tracks that we see in every direction,
there must have been an immense number of animals. On leaving here
their course was south.

38 BOTTLE BURIED.

June 16.—Striking our tents at three o’clock this morning, we fol-
lowed up the south bank of the river, which runs in a westerly course
for eight miles, when it suddenly turns to the southwest, and here the
elevated bluffs which we have had in view for several days past approach
the river upon each side, until there is but a narrow gorge or canon for
the passage of the stream. These bluffs are composed of calcareous sand-
stone and clay, rising precipitously from the banks of the stream to the
height of three hundred feet, when they suddenly terminate in the
almost perfectly level plain of the “Llano estacado.” Here the river
branches out into numerous ramifications, all running into the deep
gorges of the plain. Taking the largest, we continued up it, riding
directly in the bed of the stream for about five miles, when we reached
the source of this branch of the river; and by ascending upon the table-
lands above, we could see the heads of the other branches which we had
passed a few miles below.

The latitude at this place, as determined by several observations of
Polaris, is 35° 35’ 8”, and the longitude 101° 55’. These results
make our position only about twenty-five miles from the Canadian river;
and as I am anxious to determine how our observations conform to those
we made in ascending that stream in 1849, I propose taking ten men,
and leaving the main body of the command to guard our oxen and
stores, to make a trip in a due north course to the Canadian. This will
serve to show the connexion between that stream and a certain known
point upon the head of the north branch of Red river; and is, in my
opinion, a geographical item which it is important to establish and con-
firm by actual observation, particularly as the Canadian has by several
travellers been mistaken for Red river.

At our encampment of this evening is the last running-water we
have found in ascending this branch of Red river. We are near the
junction of the last branch of any magnitude that enters the river from
the north, and about three miles from the point where it debouches
from the plains, in a grove of large cotton-wood trees upon the south
bank of the river. Under the roots of one of the largest of these trees,
which stands near the river, and below all others in the grove, I have
buried a bottle containing the following memorandum: “On the 16th
day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, composed of Captain R. B.
Marcy, Captain G. B. McClellan, Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Doctor
G. C. Shumard, with fifty-five men of company D fifth infantry, en-
camped here, having this day traced the north branch of Red river to
its sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. Strain,
of Fort Washita, and Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city.” This

CANADIAN RIVER. 39

tree is blazed on the north and east sides, and marked upon the north
side with a pencil as follows: “ Exploring Expedition, June 16, 1852.”

An incident happened this evening, which for a short time gave us
much uneasiness and alarm. It was caused by one of the gentlemen of
the party walking out from camp alone without our knowledge, and
remaining away about two hours before we discovered his absence. It
was after dark when I first learned that he was not in camp; and as
there were many fresh signs of Indians around, I was fearful he had
fallen into their hands. I immediately started out the Delawares in
search of him, and ordered our six-pounder to be discharged, with
muskets at short intervals, and at the same time made preparations for
starting out myself; but no sooner had the cannon been fired than he
made his appearance, in a state of much excitement, and had evidently
been greatly confused and alarmed, as is always the case with per-
sons who are lost. He states that he had gone out for the purpose of
taking a short walk, and in returning over a hill had lost sight of the
camp; that in endeavoring to make his way back he had become so
much confused, that after night he took ours for a Comanche camp,
and dared not approach until he heard the signal-gun.

June 17 to 19.—On the 17th, accompanied by three gentlemen of
the party, with five soldiers and three Indians, I started in a northerly
direction to go in search of the Canadian river. Our route led us im-
mediately out upon the elevated plateau of the Staked Plain, where the
eye rests upon no object of relief within the scope of vision.

Pursuing our way over this monotonous and apparently boundless
plain for fifteen miles, our eyes were suddenly gladdened by the appear-
ance of a valley and bluffs before us, which I at once recognised to be
upon the Canadian; and after travelling ten miles further, we found
ourselves upon that stream, making the entire distance from the head
of Red river to the Canadian twenty-five miles. This was a matter of
much gratification and interest to us, as it developed and confirmed the
accuracy of our calculations regarding the geographical position of the
sources of Red river. The point where we struck the Canadian is at
the mouth of a small stream called Sandy creek upon the map of the
road from Fort Smith to Santa Fé. This being near longitude 101°
45’, and latitude 35° 58’, makes the calculations for the two positions
approximate very closely. The formation upon the Canadian at this
point is very similar to that upon the Red river, being composed of
light-colored friable arenaceous limestone, resting upon a stratum of red
sand, with a sub-stratum of blue clay; the whole overlaid by a drift
of quartz, felspar, and agate. The soil upon the creek .is a dark-brown

40 M’CLELLAN’S CREEK.

loam, covered with a heavy coating of wild rye and mezquite; and
if the drought of summer did not prevent, would produce abundant
crops. The only varieties of timber found here are the wild china,
hackberry, willow, and cotton-wood; the latter, in some instances,
growing to an enormous size. One tree, standing upon the creek near
the Canadian, which we measured, was nineteen and a half feet in cir-
cumterence at five feet above the ground. The Santa Fé road passes
directly along the river-bank at this place, and upon the north side of
the river stand four cotton-wood trees; these are blazed, and the dis-
tance in a due south course to the head of Red river, with the date of
our arrival there, marked upon one of them. Having finished the ex-
amination of the north branch of Red river, we propose turning to the
south from this point, and, crossing the elevated prairie of the Staked
Plain, shall endeavor to reach the middle or Salt Fork, which we passed
upon our left near the upper extremity of the Witchita range of mount-
ains. The only apprehension we entertain is, that we may suffer for
water, but shall keep our water-casks filled whenever it is practicable.

The grass upon the Staked Plain is generally a very short variety of
mezquite, called buffalo-grass, from one to two inches in length, and
gives the plains the appearance of an interminable meadow that has
been recently mown very close to the earth.

I have never travelled over a route on the plains west of the Cross
Timbers where the water, grass, and wood were as good and abundant
as upon the one over which our explorations have led us. This has
been to us a most agreeable surprise, as our friends, the Witchitas, had
given us to understand that we should find no wood, and nothing but
salt water, in this section of country. I can account for their misrepre-
sentations only on the ground that they did not wish us to go into the
country, and took this course to deter us from proceeding further.

June 20.—We made an early march this morning, passing over the
high hills bordering the river, and the broad swells of prairie adjoining,
for twelve miles, when we reached the valley of a very beautiful stream,
twenty feet wide and six inches deep, running rapidly over a gravelly
bed, through a valley about a mile wide of sandy soil, with large cotton-
wood trees along the banks. I have called this “ McClellan’s creek,” in
compliment to my friend Captain McClellan, who I believe to be the.
first white man that ever set eyes upon it.

We were happy, on arriving here, to find the water perfectly pure and
palatable; and we regard ourselves as most singularly fortunate in having
favorable weather. The rains of the last two days have made the
atmosphere delightfully cool, and afford us water in many places where
we had no reason to expect it at this season of the year.

MIRAGE. A1

During the middle of the day, when the earth and the adjacent strata
of air had become heated by the almost vertical rays of the sun, we
observed, as usual, upon the “Llano estacado,” an incessant tremulous
motion in the lower strata of the atmosphere, accompanied by a most sin-
gular and illusive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly deluded
the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many other places,
is here seen in perfection.

The very extraordinary refraction of the atmosphere upon these eleva- .
ted plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be distorted into the most
wild and fantastic forms, and often exaggerated to many times their
true size. A raven, for instance, would present the appearance of a man
walking erect; and an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo.
In passing along over this thirsty and extended plain in a warm day,
the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appearance of a
beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly upon the opposite
bank. His heart beats with joy at the prospect of speedily luxuriating
in the cool and delicious element before him, and he urges his horse
forward, thinking it very strange that he does not reach the oasis. At
one time he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the
distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness; then again
he fancies that the object recedes before him, and he becomes discouraged.
and disheartened. And thus he rides for miles and miles, and still finds
himself no nearer the goal than when first he saw it—when, perhaps,
some sudden change in the atmosphere would dissipate the illusion, and
disclose to him the fact that he had been following a mirage.

June 21.—On leaving our camp of last night, we crossed the creek
and continued a south course for about five miles, when we 10se upon
the crest of a very elevated ridge which divides the waters of the north
from those of the middle or Salt Fork; the valleys of both of which can
be seen from this position. Descending upon the south side of the ridge,
we encamped upon an affluent of the south fork, which runs rapidly
through a narrow valley in an easterly course. ‘The water is abundant,
and free from salts.

The geological formation upon this side of the dividing ridge is differ-
ent from that upon the north side, being here a soft, coarse, friable, con-
glomerated sandstone, enclosing a small drift of quartz, felspar, mica, and
serpentine. The country in this vicinity is much broken and cut up
with deep gorges and abrupt ridges, which are mostly impassable for
wagons, and we have been obliged in consequence to travel a very cir-
cuitous route to-day, keeping the dividing ridges as much as possible,
where we invariably find good ground for a road.

42 DISTRIBUTION OF RAIN.

June 22.—In our course this morning, we struck one of the principal
branches of the Salt Fork near its source, and followed it down upon the
left bank to its confluence with the main stream. Below the junction
the stream was fifty yards wide, but only about one-fourth of its bed
covered with water. This branch of Red river, like the other, heads in
the border of the “Llano estacado,” and directly at the source is an
elevated hill with abrupt vertical sides, terminating in a level summit;
below this, upon the south bank, are two round mounds that can be
seen for many miles.

We were much gratified in finding the water at the head of this
branch, as in the north fork, sweet and wholesome. This settles the
question that these branches of the river do not take their rise in salt
plains, as has heretofore been very generally supposed. On the contrary,
at their sources, which are in the eastern borders of the “Llano estacado,”
the water is as pure and wholesome as can be desired. And this charac-
ter continues upon all the confluents until they enter the gypsum forma-
tion, when they become impregnated with salts, that impart a new char-
acter to the water, which continues to its junction with the Mississippi.

A solitary cotton-wood, with an occasional clump of willows, consti-
tute the sylva of this portion of the river. The soil in the valley is an
arenaceous red alluvium, and would be productive with the aid of artifi-
cial irrigation.

The bluffs bordering the valley are, at this place, about one hundred
feet high, and composed of a deep red clay, overlaid with a stratum of
drift; and this surmounted with a capping of calcareous sandstone from
five to fifteen feet thick.

Upon the rocky bluffs bordering the river we found silicified wood in
great quantities, strewed about over a distance of two miles. The petri-
faction was most perfect, exhibiting all the fibres, knots, and bark, as
plainly as in the native state, and was quite similar to the cotton-wood.

This evening we have another rain coming from the northwest, which
will increase our chances for finding water in advance.

As it will be seen by a reference to the meteorological tables, our
barometer has, in almost every instance, been a certain index to the
weather from the commencement of the march. Sometimes, indeed, it
has exhibited a most extraordinary depression of the mercury for two or
three days previous to a storm; but in no instance has it failed to rain
before the instrument would resume its usual range. _

During the last three summers which I have spent upon the plains,
as has been before observed, I have seen no rain of consequence from
about the middle of May to the middle of August. And after passing

KIOWAY INDIANS. 43

west beyond the ninety-ninth degree of longitude, there has been but
very little dew during the same period. The water in most of the
streams was, at the same time, absorbed by the parched and porous soil
over which it passed, and vegetation suffered much from the drought.

On the contrary, we have this season been favored with frequent and
copious rains, and heavy dews. The streams have everywhere furnished
a plentiful supply of good water, and the whole face of the prairies has
been cheered with a rich and verdant vegetation. Near the place where
we have pitched our tents this evening is an old Indian encampment,
where John Bushman, our Delaware interpreter, has discovered that a
battle has been fought within the past two months. The evidences of
this are apparent from the fact that the remains of a large fire were
found, upon which the victorious party had piled up and burned the
lodges and effects of the vanquished. Pieces of the lodge-poles, and a
quantity of fused glass beads, with small pieces of iron and other
articles pertaining to their domestic economy, which had partially
escaped the conflagration, were found scattered about the encampment.
The number of lodge-fires indicated that the vanquished party was
small.

The trail of a large party of Kioways, travelling to the north just
before the last rain, has been seen to-day; and we are continually
meeting with evidences of their having frequently resorted to this
branch of the river. Their old camping-places and their trails are seen
almost every day. They are probably at this time north of the Cana-
dian, with the buffaloes; but are attracted to the waters of Red river
in the autumn and winter, where the exuberant and rich grama grasses
which everywhere abound in the river bottoms afford the finest pas-
turage to their numerous animals.

We have been gradually and regularly ascending in our progress
westward, until now our approximate elevation above the sea, as indi-
cated by the barometer, is two thousand seven hundred and two feet.

Our route to-day along the river valley has been populous with prairie
dogs, their towns occupying almost the entire valley of the river. I
was anxious to obtain a good specimen, and killed several of the largest
I could find; but my rifle-ball mutilated them so much, that we did not
think them worth preserving.

Our hunters brought in two deer and a turkey this evening, and their
auxiliaries, the grayhounds, have added another deer to the list.

June 23.—This morning being dark, cloudy, and threatening rain,
we did not leave camp until a late hour, when we continued our march
down the left bank of the river for some four or five miles, directly at

44 HEALTH OF THE ANIMALS.

the base of the lofty escarpments of red clay and sandstone which ter-
minate the valley upon the north side.

Soon after we started it commenced raining violently, and has con-
tinued incessantly throughout the day. It has raised the water in the
river about twelve inches, so that now the entire bed is covered. In
consequence of the rain we made an early encampment upon the south
bank of the river. )

The country upon each side of the river along where we have passed
to-day has been much broken up into deep gorges and precipitous
ridges, which are wholly impassable for wagons; and the features of
the country adjoining have assumed a desert character. With the
exception of a narrow strip of land forming the river-bottom, no arable
soil can be seen, and no timber is found except a few stunted cotton-
woods directly upon the river-banks. Several varieties of the wild sensi-
tive plant, and especially the Schrankia angustata, are found everywhere
throughout this section, and the atmosphere is redolent with the de-
lightful perfume which is emitted from their blossoms.

Having traced this branch of the river to its source, and satisfied my-
self, from the portion that we have passed over, as to its general physi-
cal and topographical features, I have resolved to leave it at this point,
and taking a southerly course, shall endeayor to make our way to the
south branch of the river. I think the remainder of the time we have
at our disposal can be more profitably occupied in exploring the country
along the borders of that stream than in any other way.

We shall set out with a supply of water and wood sufficient for three
days; and we hope, before that time expires, to find ourselves upon the
waters of the south branch. Our animals that were poor when we left
the settlements, are at this time in most excellent condition; and if we
continue to find water and grass as abundant as we have done, we shall
‘take them home in much better plight than they were at the com-
mencement of our journey.

Thus far we have been most singularly fortunate in not losing even
an animal by death or straying away; and, indeed, we have been much
favored in every respect. The command have generally been in fine
health and spirits, and with the exception of two cases of scurvy that
originated before our departure from Fort Belknap, we have had no
sickness worth mentioning.

June 24.—We were in motion at avery early hour this morning,
and taking a southerly course directly at right-angles to the river, we
soon became involved in a labyrinth of barren sand-hills, in which we
travelled some fourteen miles before we emerged upon a high ridge,

STAKED PLAIN. 45

from which, in the distance, we could discern through the dim and
murky atmosphere a very broad valley, through which we supposed the
south branch to flow.

The bare and hot sand over which we had just passed was in strong
contrast with the refreshing verdure of the valley before us. After
travelling a few miles down the south slope of the divide, we encamped
upon a small branch, where we found good water and grass, with a few
cotton-wood trees, which furnished us with fuel.

The geological formation upon the bluffs bordering this stream is a
friable red sandstone, overlaid with a stratum of coarse gypsum, with a
subjacent stratum of bright red clay, interstratified with seams of gyp-
sum. The soil since we left the sand-hills has been good, probably
owing to the fertilizing properties of the gypsum.

June 25.—The atmosphere this morning was clear, cool, and bracing,
with a north-northeasterly wind; the thermometer at 3 a. m. standing
at 69°. The sky at sunrise was cloudless, and the sun shone brilliantly
upon some elevated white bluffs which we could see in the distance, and
supposed to be upon the border of the valley of the south fork of Red
river.

At an early hour we resumed our march down the creek for about
three miles, when we crossed another large stream with clear running
water, and taking a circuitous course among the rough and broken hills
bordering it, we made fifteen miles, encamping upon a branch where we
found water standing in pools.

Our course to-day has led us through a formation of sulphate and
carbonate of lime, which in some places appeared to be decomposed and
covered the earth in a powdered state to the depth of three inches.
Several fossil shells belonging to the cretaceous system were found to-
day: they were much rounded by attrition, and probably have been
transported here from a distance by water.

June 26.—We were in motion at the usual time this morning,
and turning our course up the river over a very broken and elevated
country, travelled ten miles, when we encamped upon a large branch of
the south fork which enters from the north. It is fifty yards wide, with
a sandy bed, and at this time contains but little water. The white es-
carpment of the Staked Plain has been in sight for the last two days in
front and on the right of us. It seems to be very much elevated above
the adjoining country, with almost vertical sides, covered with a scrubby
_ growth of dwarf cedars, and from the summit the country spreads out
into a perfectly level plain, or mesa, as far as the eye can penetrate.

46 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS.

The stream upon which we are encamped, like the other branches of
Red river, takes its rise in the borders of this plain, and for several miles
from its source there are numerous branches issuing from deep cafions,
with perpendicular sides, which continue until they debouch into the
more rolling country below, where the banks become low, and the bed
broad and sandy.

The geological features of the country upon the head of this branch
are characterized by a different formation from that upon the other
branches we have seen, inasmuch as we here find the gypsum extending
to the very sources, and the water having the peculiar taste imparted by
that mineral throughout its entire course.

Our road during the whole day has passed through a continuous dog-
town, (Spermophilus ludovicianus,) and we were often obliged to turn
out of our course to avoid the little mounds around their burrows.

In passing along through these villages the little animals are seen in
countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of their domicils, pre-
senting much the appearance of the stumps of small trees; and so inces-
sant is the clatter of their barking, that it requires but little effort of the
imagination to fancy oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city-

The immense number of animals in some of these towns, or warrens,
may be conjectured from the large space which they sometimes cover.
The one at this place is about twenty-five miles in the direction through
which we have passed it. Supposing its dimensions in other directions to
be the same, it would embrace an area of six hundred and twenty-five
square miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres. Estimating
the holes to be at the usual distances of about twenty yards apart, and
each burrow occupied by a family of four or five dogs, I fancy that the
ageregate population would be greater than any other city in the
universe.

This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mammalia of
our country, which is found assembled in such vast communities, is
indigenous to the most of our far western prairies, from Mexico to the
northern limits of the United States, and has often been described by
travellers who have been upon the plains. But as there are some facts
in relation to their habits which I have never seen mentioned in any
published account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a few re-
marks to what has already been said. In the selection of a site or posi-
tion for their towns they appear to have a regard to their food, which is
a species of short wiry grass, growing upon the elevated plains, where
there is often no water near. I have sometimes seen their towns upon

ASSOCIATES OF THE PRAIRIE-DOGS. 47

the elevated table-lands of New Mexico, where there was no water upon
the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where it did not seem
probable that it could be obtained by excavating to the depth of a hun-
dred feet. This has induced me to believe that they do not require that
element without which most other animals perish in a short time.

As there are generally no rains or dews during the summer months
upon the plains where these towns are found, and as the animals never
wander far from home, I think I am warranted in coming to the con-
clusion that they require no water beyond that which the grass affords
them. That they hybernate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid
state is evident, from the fact that they lay up no sustenance for the win-
ter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the autumn, the
earth freezes hard and renders it utterly impossible for them to procure
food in the usual manner.

When the prairie dog first feels the approach of the sleeping season,
(generally about the last days of October,) he closes all the passages to
his dormitory to exclude the cold air, and betakes himself to his brumal
slumber with the greatest possible care. He remains housed until the
warm days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his door
and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever.

I have been informed by the Indians that a short time ator a cold
storm in the autumn, all the prairie dogs may be seen industriously
occupied with weeds and earth, closing the entrances to their burrows.
They are sometimes, however, seen reopening them while the weather is
still cold and stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to
follow.

It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quadrupeds when
to expect good or bad weather, and to make their arrangements ac-
cordingly. A species of small owl is always found in the dog towns,
sitting at the mouths of the holes when not occupied by the dogs;
whether for the purpose of procuring food, or for some other object, I
do not know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, burrow
with the dogs; and when approached, instead of entering the holes, they
invariably fly away. It has also been said that the rattle-snake is a
constant companion of the dog; but this is a mistake, for I have some-
times passed for days through the towns without seeing one. They are,
however, often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it
has been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with the
proprietors of the establishments; but we have satisfied ourselves that
this is a domestic arrangement entirely at variance with the wishes of

48 RATTLESNAKES.

the dogs, as the snakes prey upon them, and must be considered as in-
truders. They are probably attracted to the burrows for the purpose
of procuring food, as one snake which we killed was found to have
swallowed a full-grown dog. ,

KE-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 49

CHAPTER VI.

ARRIVE AT MAIN SOUTH FORK—PANTHER KILLED—BITTER WATER-—INTENSE
THIRST—HEAD SPRING-——-BEARS ABUNDANT—DEPARTURE DOWN THE RIVER.

June 27.—Making an early start this morning, we travelled down the
river for five miles, when we crossed and resumed the south course over
high rolling lands, much broken up on each side into numerous deep
defiles and rugged cliffs, running towards the main river.

Directly in front of us lay the high table-lands of the “Llano estacado,”
towering up some eight hundred feet above the surrounding country,
and bordered by precipitous escarpments capped with a stratum of white
gypsum, which glistened in the sun like burnished silver. After trav-
elling fourteen miles, we reached the valley of the principal branch of
the river.

it was here nine hundred yards wide, flowing over a very sandy bed,
with but little water in the channel, and is fortified upon each side by
rugged hills and deep gullies, over which I think it will be impossible to
take our train. The soil throughout this section is a light ferruginous
clay, with no timber except a few hackberry and cotton-wood trees upon
the banks of the streams. There is but little water either in the river or
in the creeks, and in a dry season I doubt if there would be any found
here.

Our route to-day has continued to lead us through dog towns, and it
is probable that the fact of their being so abundant here has suggested
the name which the Comanches have applied to this branch of Red
river, of “Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no,” or “ Prairie-dog-town river.”

We were so unfortunate yesterday as to lose an excellent bear-dog
which a gentleman in Arkansas had taken great pains to procure for
me. I regret this very much, as we are now coming into a country
where we shall probably find these animals abundant, and it is difficult
to hunt them without a good dog, trained for the purpose.

Our hunters killed two antelopes to-day. We have seen but few deer,
however, and no turkeys, during the last week. We occasionally see the
pinnated grouse and the quail; as also the meadow-lark, which I have
found in all places wherever I have travelled.

June 28.—On leaving our encampment of last night, we took a

southwesterly course for the eastern extremity of the white-capped bluffs
4

50 PANTHER KILLED.

which have been so long in sight, and which border the great plain
of the “Llano estacado” upon the river valley.

After marching eight miles over’a succession of very rugged hills and
valleys, which rise as they recede from the river, we reached the base
of these towering and majestic cliffs, which rise almost perpendicularly
from the undulating swells of prairie at the base, to the height of eight
hundred feet, and terminate at the summit in a plateau almost as level
as the sea, which spreads out to the south and west like the steppes of
Central Asia, in an apparently illimitable desert.

I supposed, from the appearance of the country at a distance, that I
should be able to find a passage for the wagons along at the foot of
these cliffs; but, upon a closer examination, find the ground between
them and the river so much cut up by abrupt ridges and deep glens,
that it is wholly impracticable to take our train any further up this
branch of the river. We have sought for a passage by which we might
take the train to the top of the bluffs, where, as they run nearly par-
allel to the course of the river, we might have continued on with the
wagons; but after making a careful examination, we have abandoned
the idea, not being able fo discover a place where we could even take
our horses up the steep sides of the precipice.

The geological formation of these bluffs is a red indurated clay, rest-
ing upon a red sandstone, overlaid with a soft, dark-gray sandstone, and
the whole capped with a white calcareous sandstone, the strata resting
horizontally, and receding in terraces from the base to the summit.

As Capt. McClellan and myself were passing to-day along under the
bluffs, we saw in advance of us a herd of antelopes quietly feeding
among some mezquite trees, when the idea occurred to me of attempt-
ing to call them with a deer-bleat, which one of the Delawares had
made forme. I accordingly advanced several hundred yards to near
the crest of a hill, from which I had a fair view of the animals, and,
very deliberately seating myself upon the ground, screened from their
observation by the tall grass around me, I took out my bleat and com-
menced exercising my powers in imitating the ery of the fawn. I soon
succeeded in attracting their attention, and ina short time decoyed one
of the unsuspicious animals within range of my rifle, which I raised to
my shoulder, and, taking deliberate aim, was in the act of pulling
trigger, when my attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly drawn
aside by a rustling which I heard in the grass to my left. Casting my
eyes in that direction, to my no small astonishment I saw a tremendous
panther bounding at full speed directly towards me, and within the
short distance of twenty steps. .As may be imagined, I immediately

GYPSUM GROTTO. 51

abandoned the antelope, and, directing my rifle at the panther, sent a
ball through his chest, which stretched him out upon the grass about
ten yards from where I had taken my position. Impressed with the
belief that I had accomplished a feat of rather more than ordinary
importance in the sporting line, I placed my hand to my mouth, (“a la
Savage,”) and gave several as loud shouts of exultation as my weak
lungs would admit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to my feelings
of triumph upon the occasion, and also to call the Captain, whom I
had left some distance back with the horses. As he did not hear me
I went back for him, and on returning to the spot where I had fired
upon the panther, we discovered him upon his feet, making off. The
Captain gave him another shot as he was running, and then closed in
with his rifle clubbed, and it required several vigorous blows, laid on in
quick succession, to give him his quietus.

The panther had probably heard the bleat, and was coming towards
it with the pleasant anticipation of making his breakfast from a tender
fawn; but, fortunately for me, I disappointed him. It occurred to me
afterwards that it would not always be consistent with ones safety to
use the deer-bleat in this wild country, unless we were perfectly certain
we should have our wits about us in the event of a panther or large
bear (which is often the case) taking it into his head to give credence
to the counterfeit. This was a large specimen of the els concolor, or
North American cougar, measuring eight feet from his nose to the end
of the tail.

June 29.—As we were unable to proceed further up this branch of
the river with the wagons, I concluded to leave the main body of the
command under charge of Lieut. Updegraff, and, with Capt. McClellan
and a small escort of ten men, to push on and endeavor to reach the
head spring of this the principal branch of Red river.

Taking provisions for six days, packed upon mules, we went forward
this morning over a constant succession of steep, rocky ridges, and
deep ravines, in one of which we discovered a grotto in the gypsum
rocks, which appeared to have been worn out by the continued action
of water, leaving an arched passway, the sides of which were perfectly
smooth and symmetrical, and composed of strata of three distinct
bright colors of green, pink, and white, arranged in such peculiar order
as to give it an appearance of singular beauty. On our arrival here
the men were much exhausted by rapid marching over the rough
ground, and were exceedingly thirsty. Fortunately, we found near the
mouth of the grotto a spring of very cold water bursting out of the
rock; and although it had the peculiar taste of the, gypsum, yet they

52 SUFFERING FROM THIRST.

drank large quantities without suffering from it.* Our animals and
men being much jaded from travelling over this rough and forbidding
country, we turned down towards the river after a short halt at the
grotto, and on reaching it found the water still very bitter and un-
palatable. As the day was very warm, (the thermometer standing, at
12,0’clock m., at 104° Fahrenheit in the shade) with no air stirring, the
reflection of the sun’s rays from the white sand in the bed of the river
made it exceedingly oppressive.

At sundown we bivouacked near a small pool of muddy water, a Kittle
better than that in the river, but still very unpalatable. In despite of
this, as we were suffering much from the intense thirst caused by the
heat of the day, and from drinking the nauseating water we had met
with upon the march, we indulged freely ; but instead of allaying thirst
it only served to increase it.

The country over which we have passed to-day, upon both sides of
the river, has been cut up by numerous deep gorges extending from the
chain of mural escarpments that terminate the “Llano estacado” to the
river, and in many of these are small streams of water which issue from
springs in the rocky sides of the gorges. We have met with no

* As this spring issued directly from the pure gypsum rock, I procured a speci-
men of the water, which has been analyzed under the direction of Professor W.
S. Clark, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and may, I think, be regarded as
containing those ingredients which communicate that peculiar disagreeable taste
to all the water of this country that flows over a gypsum formation. The analy-
sis resulted as follows:

Watery in Tiong le oo.) amine wie dailies om eaee D ieiil 4

Sn Maid. PYAMIMES coined eaten diene nisin oid enn'-eenaisanisieans 127. 500
Hydrosulphuric acid present.....----------- +--+ eeeeee nee Senne Me
CHIOTING Eee ee lat ee teins nce ss choos beanel eee ee 014
Bane el ee reed bls Leen cee ence voce seen 6 eae ee . 090
Sulphuria acid. i... 220d. oo ek Clelcc ee Seca bene sk ee eeee amen . 227
Soda and magnesia, about......--- --2- e222 eee ene ene e cee ene cone . 130

These elements, united in the form of salts, would give the following results:
Weight of sulphate of lime....--. 2-2. ---- e222 e222 cone cone ene enon . 219

1 Oey ef MAQNESIA. .. 24 eee eee ene eseene cece wale w es . 088 (7)

es te “ RODD wide alee ly kinins wie epi alae iain - 073 (7?)

« & Ghioride of sodium... 2. 0.222. noon cone mann ns cee ces cosnns . 023

« & hydrosulphuric acid... .. 220. cone cone cone cone cen eee scene O11
Weight of the whole......----.----+-----+0- sheen 6'w teas eae .414

————

Per-centage of matter in solution.cee eeceoaes eoee O2Fe288 Qaanoseeeeeeee 0. 82

FORKS OF THE RIVER. 53

trees except a species of red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana, and a few
lonely cotton-woods.

The soil is sandy upon the ridges, with blue and red clay in the val-
leys, and gypsum rocks predominate throughout the formation. The
high bluffs to the south of us have gradually approached the river until,
near our encampment, they are only about two hundred yards distant.

June 30.—At daylight this morning we were in the saddle, and,
taking the bed of the river, set out at a brisk pace, hoping to find some
good water during the day. Our course was very circuitous from
being obliged to follow the windings made by the numerous detours
in the river. The lofty escarpments which bounded the valley upon
each side, rose precipitously from the banks of the river to the enor-
mous height of from five to eight hundred feet; and in many places
there was not room for aman to pass between the foot of the ac-
clivities and the river. It was altogether impossible to travel upon
either side of the river,so much broken and cut up was the ground,
and the only place where a passage for a horse can be found is directly
along the defile of the river bed. We found frequent small rivulets
flowing into the river through the deep glens upon each side; but,
most unfortunately for us, the water in them all was acid and nau-
seating. We made our noon halt at one of these streams, after tray-
elling fifteen miles over the burning sands of the river bed.

At this time we had become so much affected by the frequent and
irresistible use of the water, that most of us experienced a constant
burning pain in the stomach, attended with loss of appetite, and the
most vehement and feverish thirst. We endeavored to disguise the
taste of the water by making coffee with it, but it retained the same
disagreeable properties in that form that it had in the natural state.

At four in the evening we again pushed forward up the river, pray-
ing most devoutly that we might reach the termination of the gypsum
formation before night, and that the river, which was still of very con-
siderable magnitude, would branch out and soon come to a termination.

Four miles from our halting-place we passed a large affluent coming
in from the north, above which there was a very perceptible diminu-
tion in the main stream; and in going a few miles further, we passed
several more, causing a still greater contraction in its dimensions. All
these affluents were similar in character to the parent stream, bordered
with lofty and precipitous bluffs, with gypsum veins running through
them similar to those upon the main river.

Towards evening we arrived at a point where the river divided into
two forks, of about equal dimensions, We followed the left, which

4 FRESH WATER.

appeared somewhat the largest, and here found the bluffs receding
several hundred yards from the banks upon each side, leaving a very
beautiful and quiet little nook, wholly unlike the stern grandeur of the
rugged defile through which we had been passing. This glen was
covered with a rich carpet of verdure, and embowered with the foliage
of the graceful china and aspen, and its rural and witching loveliness
gladdened our hearts and refreshed our eyes, long fatigued with gazing
upon frowning crags and deep, shady ravines.

After travelling twenty-five miles we encamped upon the main river,
which had now become reduced to one hundred feet in width, and
flowed rapidly over a sandy bed.

Although we were suffering most acutely from the effects of the
nauseating and repulsive water in the river, yet we were still under the
painful necessity of using it. Several of the men had been taken with
violent cramps in the stomach and vomiting, yet they did not murmur;
on the contrary, they were cheerful, and indulged in frequent jokes at
the expense of those who were sick. The principal topic of conversa-
tion with them seemed to be a discussion of the relative merits of the
different kinds of fancy iced drinks which could be procured in the
cities, and the prices that could be obtained for some of them if they
were within reach of our party. Indeed it seems to me that we were
not entirely exempt from the agitation of a similar subject; and from
the drift of the argument, I have no doubt that a moderate quantity of
Croton water, cooled with Boston ice, would have met with as ready a
sale in our little mess, as in almost any market that could have been
found. If I mistake not, one of the gentlemen offered as high as two
thousand dollars for a single bucket of the pure element; but this was
one of those few instances in which money was not sufficiently potent
to attain the object desired.

We laid ourselves down upon our blankets and endeavored to oblite-
rate the sensation of thirst in the embraces of Morpheus; but so far as
I was concerned, my slumbers were continually disturbed by dreams, in
which I fancied myself swallowing huge draughts of ice-water,

July 1.—We saddled up at a very early hour this morning, and
proceeded on up the river for several miles, when we found a large
affluent putting in from the north; and after travelling a few miles
further we passed many more small tributaries, which caused the main
stream to contract into the narrow channel of only twenty feet; and its
bed, which from its confluence with the Mississippi to this place (with
the exception of a ridge of rocks which crosses it near Jonesborough, in
Texas) had been sand, suddenly changed to rock, with the water, which

HEAD OF RED RIVER. 55

before had been turbid, flowing clear and rapidly over it; and, much to
our delight, it was entirely free from salts. This was certainly an un-
looked-for luxury, as we had everywhere before this found it exceedingly
unpalatable. As I before observed, the effect of this water upon us had
been to produce sickness at the stomach, attended with loss of appetite,
and a most raging and feverish thirst, which constantly impelled us to
drink it, although it had a contrary effect upon us from what we de-
sired, increasing rather than allaying thirst.

After undergoing the most intense sufferings from drinking this nau-
seating fluid, we indulged freely in the pure and delicious element as we
ascended along the narrow dell through which the stream found its way.
And following up for two miles the tortuous course of the gorge, we
reached a point where it became so much obstructed with huge piles of
rock, that we were obliged to leave our animals and clamber up the re-
mainder of the distance on foot.

The gigantic escarpments of sandstone, rising to the giddy height of
eight hundred feet upon each side, gradually closed in until they were
only a few yards apart and finally united over head, leaving a long, nar-
row corridor beneath, at the base of which the head spring of the prin-
cipal or main branch of Red river takes its rise. This spring bursts out
from its cavernous reservoir, and, leaping down over the huge masses of
rock below, here commences its long journey to unite with other tribu-
taries in making the Mississippi the noblest river in the universe.
Directly at the spring we found three small cotton-wood trees, one of
which was blazed, and the fact of our having visited the place, with the
date, marked upon it.

On beholding this minute rivulet as it wends its tortuous course down
the steep descent of the canon, it is difficult to realize that it forms the
germ of one of the largest and most important rivers in America;
floating steamers upon its bosom for nearly two thousand miles, and
depositing an alluvion along its borders which renders its valley unsur-
passed for fertility.

We took many copious draughts of the cool and refreshing water
in the spring, and thereby considered ourselves, with the pleasure we re-
ceived from the beautiful and majestic scenery around us, amply remu-
nerated for all ourf¥fatigue and privations. The magnificence of the
views that presented themselves to our eyes as we approached the head
of the river, exceeded anything I had ever beheld. It is impossible
for me to describe the sensations that came over me, and the exquisite
pleasure I experienced, as I gazed upon these grand and novel pictures.

The stupendous escarpments of solid rock, rising precipitously from

30) LLANO ESTACADO.

the bed of the river to such a height as, for a great portion of the day,
to exclude the rays of the sun, were worn away, by the lapse of time
and the action of the water and the weather, into the most fantastic
forms, that required but little effort of the imagination to convert into
works of art, and all united in forming one of the grandest and most
picturesque scenes that can be imagined. We all, with one accord,
stopped and gazed with wonder and admiration upon a panorama
which was now for the first time exhibited to the eyes of civilized man.
Occasionally might be seen a good representation of the towering walls
of a castle of the feudal ages, with its giddy battlements pierced with
loopholes, and its projecting watch-towers standing out in bold relief
upon the azure ground of the pure and transparent sky above. In other
places our fancy would metamorphose the escarpments into a bastion
front, as perfectly modelled and constructed as if it had been a produc-
tion of the genius of Vauban, with redoubts and salient angles all
arranged in due order. Then, again, we would see a colossal specimen
of sculpture representing the human figure, with all the features of the
face, which, standing upon its lofty pedestal, overlooks the valley, and
seems to have been designed and executed by the Almighty artist as
the presiding genius of these dismal solitudes.

All was here crude nature, as it sprang into existénce at the fiat of
the Almighty architect of the universe, still preserving its primeval
type, its unreclaimed sublimity and wildness; and it forcibly inspired me
with that veneration which is justly due to the high antiquity of nature’s
handiworks, and which seems to increase as we consider the solemn and
important lesson that is taught us in reflecting upon their continued
permanence when contrasted with our own fleeting and momentary
existence. .

On climbing up to the summit of the escarpment over the head of
the spring, we found ourselves upon the level plain of the “ Llano es-
tacado,” which spreads out from here in one uninterrupted desert, to the
base of the mountains east of the Rio Grande. The geographical posi-
tion of this point, as determined by courses and distances from the
place where we left the wagons, is in latitude 34° 42’ north, and longi-
tude 103° 7’ 11” west; and its approximate elevation above the sea, as
determined by frequent and careful barometric Ghservations, is 2,450
feet.

The geological formation is different here from what it is below, inas-
much as we find no gypsum; and the moment we passed this mineral,
(which was only about two miles before we reached the head of the
river,) the water became at once sweet and good.

INSTINCTS OF THE BEAR. 57

We have seen numerous bear tracks within the past two days; and
occasionally the animals themselves, two of which we killed. Several
that we saw, however, escaped; and we had frequent occasion to regret
the loss of our pears: as we might have killed many more with his
assistance.

John Bull, who still continued to ride the same fractious horse which
he had in the buffalo hunt, made a brush with a large bear to-day, but
did not succeed in getting alongside of him, as the horse became per-
fectly mad and unmanageable the moment he got sight of the bear.
This is often the case; and there are but few horses that can be made to
approach one of these animals.

Several anecdotes, which were related to me by our guide, concerning
the habits of the black bear, would seem to entitle him to a higher
position in the scale of animal instinct and sagacity than that of
almost any other quadruped. For instance, he says that before making
his bed to lie down, the animal invariably goes several hundred yards
with the wind, at a distance from his first track. Should an enemy now
come upon his track, he must approach him with the wind; and with
the bear’s keen sense of smell, he is almost certain to be made aware of
his presence, and has time to escape before he is himself seen.

He also states that when pursued, the bear sometimes takes refuge in
caves in the earth or rocks, where the hunter often endeavors, by making
a smoke at the entrance, to force him out; but it not unfrequently
happens, that instead of coming out when the smoke becomes too op-
pressive, he very deliberately advances to the fire, and with his fore feet
beats upon it until it is extinguished, then retreats into the cave. This
he assured me he had seen often. Although these statements would
seem to endow bruin with something more than mere animal instinct,
and evince a conception of the connexion between cause and effect, yet
another anecdote which was related to me would go to prove this curi-
ous quadruped one of the most stupid fellows in the brute creation.

My informant says, that when the bear cannot be driven out of
the cave by smoke, it sometimes becomes necessary for the hunter to
take his rifle, and with 4 torch to enter the cavern in search of him.
One would suppose this a very hazardous undertaking, and that the
animal would soon eject the presumptuous intruder; but, on the con-
trary, as soon as he sees the light approaching, he sits upright on his
. haunches, and with his fore paws covers his face and eyes, and remains
in this position until the light is removed. Thus the hunter is enabled
to approach as close as he desires without danger, and taking deadly
aim with his faithful rifle, poor bruin is slain. These facts have been

o8 | HOMEWARD MARCH.

stated to me by three different Indians, in whose veracity I haye much
confidence, and I have no doubt are strictly true. The black bear is
generally harmless unless wounded, or when accompanied by its young,
when I have known one of them to pursue a man on horseback several
hundred yards in the most furious mood, snapping continually at the
legs of the horse.

July 3.—We reached camp to-day from the head of the river, having
returned over the same route that we ascended, and found all anxiously
awaiting us. From this point to the head of the river is sixty-five miles,
and for about sixty miles of this distance the river runs through a deep
defile, the escarpments of which rise from five to eight hundred feet
upon each side, and in many places they approach so near the water’s
edge that there is not room for a man to pass, and it is often necessary
to travel for several miles in the bed of the river before a place is found
where a horse can clamber up the precipitous sides of the chasm.

I could not determine in my own mind whether this remarkable
defile had been formed, after a long lapse of time, by the continued
action of the current, or had been produced by some great convulsion of
nature: perhaps both causes have contributed to its formation, some
convulsive operation having first given birth to an extensive fissure, and
the ceaseless action of the stream having afterwards reduced it to its
present condition.

A gentleman who is travelling with us, and who was attached as a
captain to Col. McLeod’s expedition to Santa Fe, so graphically de-
scribed by Mr. Kendall, recognised a point, near the head of the river,
where his command passed. He is of the opinion that the river which
they ascended, and supposed at the time to be the principal branch of
Red river, must have been the Big Witchita, and they probably passed
entirely to the south of the main branch of the river. The fact that
they were for a long time upon the plains of the “Llano estacado”
would go to confirm this supposition, as anywhere to the north of this
stream they would not have encountered much of it.

July 4.—This morning at an early hour we turned our faces towards
home, and travelled about five miles down the right bank of the river,
when we discovered that the country in advance upon that side was so
much broken into deep gullies and abrupt ridges that it would be im-
practicable to get our wagons over them. We therefore crossed to the
north side of the river, where we found a most excellent road over
smooth prairie. At our present position we have a pond of excellent
water, with an abundance of hackberry and cotton-wood for fuel. On
approaching the pond, Capt. McClellan and myself, who were in advance

DOG-TOWN. 59

of the command, espied a huge panther very leisurely walking away in
an opposite direction ; and as, in hunter’s parlance, we “had the wind of
him,” it enabled us to ride sufficiently near to give him a shot before
he discovered us. It took effect and caused him to make a tremendous
leap into the air, and, running a short distance, he fell dead. We have
also killed four deer to-day, which supplies us with an abundance of
fresh meat. Some of the bucks are now very fat, and the venison is
superior to any I have ever eaten.

The pond of water at our camp is a very peculiar and strange freak
of nature. It is almost round, two hundred and fifty feet in diameter,
with the water thirty feet deep, and perfectly transparent and sweet
The surface of the water in this basin is about twenty feet below the
banks, and the sides of the depression nearly perpendicular. The
country for two or three miles around, in all directions, rises to the
height of from one to two hundred feet. As this pond seems to be
supplied by springs, and has no visible outlet, it occurred to me that
there might possibly be a subterraneous communication which carried
off the surplus water and the earth from the depression of the basin.

July 5.—We were in motion this morning at 2 o’clock, keeping
down the deft bank of the river, in an easterly course over a firm and
smooth road for sixteen miles, when we found ourselves upon a small
running creek, the water of which was strongly charged with salts; but
as we had filled our casks at the pond, we did not suffer.

We are encamped near a conical-shaped mound, flat upon the top,
and are about three miles from the main river.

We find much more mezquite timber upon this branch of the river
than upon the other. Indeed, I have never seen much of this wood
above the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude; but south of this it ap-
pears to increase in quantity and size as far as the 28th degree. Upon
the Canadian river I have observed a few small bushes; but the climate
in that latitude appears too cold for it to flourish well.

The soil here is sandy, with but little water, and that for the most
part of a quality unfit for use. The grama and mezquite grasses are
abundant. Our route for the last fifty miles has carried us through an
almost continuous dog-town, but as yet we have not been able to secure
a live specimen. The latitude at this point is 34° 8’ 30”.

July 6.—Our wagons were packed, and we were en route before
3 o'clock this morning, but were obliged to deviate from our course
very eonsiderably to pass around some deep ravines that extended back
to near the erest of the ridge, dividing the middle from the south fork.
In this route we traversed a very smooth and elevated rolling prairie,

60 MULBERRY CREEK.

from which we frequently obtained views of the valleys of both branches
of the river.

The grama grass, which appears to flourish in this section, is now in
process of heading, and will soon be matured.* This most excellent
forage for animals does not ripen until quite late in the season, and
remains green during most of the winter. I have observed it growing
in about the same latitudes as the mezquite trees; but it is most abund-
ant in New Mexico, where it is the predominating grass of the country.

As I was riding at a distance from the train to-day, I saw three
Indians, but they immediately passed out of view in a ravine, and were
not observed again.

We are encamped this evening upon a very clear and rapid brook;
but the water, unfortunately, has the characteristic taste of the gypsum.

There is capital grass upon the creek, and large cotton-wood and
hackberry, with a few mulberry trees, which, being the first we have
seen for several weeks, has suggested a name for the stream—* Mul-
berry Creck.”

July 7.—We left camp at 2 o’clock this morning, and continued on
for three miles over the same description of country as that we passed
yesterday, when we arrived at a swift-running creek, twenty-five feet
wide and eight inches deep, of clear, cold water; but, as usual, upon
tasting it, found it unpalatable. After passing this creek our course
was nearly parallel to the river, and from four to twelve miles distant.

The gypsum formation characterizes this section, and has continued
from near the head of the river to this place; but as it imparts to the
water such disagreeable qualities, we earnestly desire to see no more
of it.

*Two varieties of grama grass-seed (Chondrosium foeneum and Atheropogon
oligostachyum) were collected and disposed of in the manner mentioned in the
following letter: '

U. S. Patent Orrice,
November 12, 1852.

Sir: The two packages of grama grass-seed from near the sources of Red
river, forwarded by you to this office, have been received, and you are requested
to accept the thanks of the office for the same. They have already been dis-
tributed, in conformity with your suggestion, to gentlemen in the States of Vir-
ginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Louisiana.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

S. H. HODGES.

Capt. R. B. Marcy, New York.

COLLECTION OF REPTILES. 61

One of our Delawares killed a very large wild cat (Lynceus rufus)
to-day, the skin of which we have preserved.

Our collection of reptiles increases very rapidly, and we now have
upwards of a hundred specimens, many of them very beautiful and inte-
resting, Our herbarium is also enlarging daily, and we already have a
large collection.

62 ANTELOPES AND DEER.

CHAPTER VII.

ANTELOPE AND DELR—WITCHITA MOUNTAINS IN SIGHT—REACH BUFFALO CREEK—
VALLEY OF OTTER CREEK—SALUBRITY OF CLIMATE—DEER BLEAT—HORSE-FLIES—
SCURVY—WITCHITA MOUNTAINS—PASS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS—BUFFALO SEEN.

July 8.—Our train was in motion again at 2 o’clock this morning,
and our road led us over very elevated table-lands, near the dividing
ridge of the two branches of the river, where the country is totally
destitute of wood or water, and altogether devoid of interest until
reaching this place, where we find a few small ponds of wretched water
and a clump of trees.

In addition to four deer and two antelopes that have been killed by
our party to-day, our grayhounds have contributed another deer to our
larder.

We have had several good opportunities since we have been upon
the plains of witnessing the relative speed of the different animals found
here, and our observations have confirmed the opinion I have before
advanced. For example, the grayhounds have upon several different
occasions run down and captured the deer and the prairie rabbits, which
are also considered very fleet; but aithough they have had very many
races with the antelope under favorable circumstances, yet they have
never in one instance been able to overtake them; on the contrary, the
longer the chase has continued, the greater has been the distance be-
tween them. The Cervus Virginianus (our red deer) has generally been
considered the fleetest animal upon the continent after the horse, but
the Antilocapra Americana, or prong-horned antelope of the plains, is
very much swifter.

One of our hunters, who has been in advance of our camp, says he
obtained a distant view of the Witchita mountains, and that he has also
discovered several telegraphic smokes in a northeasterly direction.

July 9.—Getting under way at 2 o’clock this morning, we journeyed
over the elevated prairie in a northeast course towards the dividing
ridye, and on coming upon the crest of this elevation, some of the most
lofty peaks at the western extremity of the Witchita chain of mountains
showed themselves in the distance, like smoky clouds against the back-
ground of the murky sky near the horizon. Crossing over the ridge,
we made for the head of a creek, where we expected to find good water,
but upon reaching it we found the gypsum rocks, and, as usual, the

INDIAN SIGNS. 63

water exceedingly bitter, and wholly unfit for use. After travelling
down this creek for four miles, we encamped at a small pond, containing
a liquid which we were obliged to make use of, but it had more the
appearance of the drainings from a stable-yard than water.

We find more timber upon the borders of this stream than we have
seen since leaving Sweet-water creek; it consists of china, hackberry,
cotton-wood, and mulberry. The grass*is luxuriant, and the vegetation
of the valley has a smiling and verdant aspect, that marks the fertility
of the soil.

Four deer have been killed to-day—two of which I was so fortunate
as to add to my list: one was also caught by the grayhounds. They
have afforded us much and rare sport by frequent chases, of which the
smooth prairie has afforded us a good view.

It is a most beautiful spectacle to mark the slender and graceful
figures of the hounds as they strain every muscle to its utmost tension
in their eager and rapid pursuit of the panic-stricken deer. It is a
contest between two of the fleetest and most graceful and beautiful
quadrupeds in existence: the one has his life at stake, and the other is
animated by all that eager enthusiasm which is characteristic of a
thorough-breed animal. They both put forth all the energies with
which the Author of their being has endowed them, and seem to fly
over the wavy undulations of the plains. Now they are upon the summit
of one of these swells, and the startled animal has disappeared in an
adjoining ravine, and for a moment the hounds are at fault; but soon
they espy him panting up the opposite acclivity, when they are off
again like the wind, in hot pursuit, and, rapidly closing upon their
devoted victim, they are soon engaged in the death struggle. This
sport is most intensely exciting, and he who would not become interested
in it would hardly be entitled to claim consanguinity with the great
family of Nimrod.

The result of our observations for latitude at this position is 34° 8'11”.

July 10.—As the country over which we had to pass this morning
was intersected by numerous abrupt ravines, we were unable to leave
camp until daylight.

Our course led us over a high ridge, in an easterly direction for
several miles, when we arrived upon the banks of a deep and rapid
affluent of the main river, along which we travelled for two miles,
encamping near a spring of cold, but brackish water.

We have seen Indian-tracks to-day, made about three days since, and
are much astonished that they have not paid us a visit, as some of the
different parties we have passed must have seen our trail.

64 BEAVER CREEK.

The Witchita mountains have been in sight to the left all day, and
our present position is very nearly opposite the western extremity of
the chain. The variation of the magnetic needle at this point is 10°
45' 30” east.

July 11.—Striking our tents at an early hour this morning, we con-
tinued down the vite of the creek for ten miles, when we turned to
the north and followed for several miles a ridge done this from
another stream, upon which we are encamped.

The face of the country over which we are now journeying is totally
without interest, being arid, sterile, and flat, and presenting no object
upon which the eye can rest with pleasure.

The stream at this place is thirty yards wide, two feet deep, with a
swift current, and the water brackish. Since we left the head of the
Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, we have found but three places upon the route
where the water has been entirely free from salts, and at these places,
with one exception, it has been insipid, stagnant, and muddy; yet our
animals drink it and appear fond of it. As yet, we have lost none of our
stock by death or straying. Our oxen, although they have performed
more labor than the mules, are in much better condition; indeed, they
have been constantly improving, while the others have become somewhat
poor and jaded. This goes to confirm me in an opinion I had previously
formed as to the comparative powers of endurance of the two different
kinds of cattle for long journeys upon the plains. I have now no hesita-
tion in expressing a decided opinion in favor of the oxen.

July 12.—As we anticipated a long march, réveille was sounded at
1 o'clock this morning, and we were en route at 2. Taking a course
north of east towards a mountain which we recognised as being upon
Beaver creek, we reached the confluence of this stream with Red river
at 9 o’clock, and crossing a short distance above the junction, encamped
in a bend of the creek, where, to the supreme satisfaction of every one
in the command, we once more found good running-water, and after
being for so long a time deprived of it we enjoyed it exceedingly.

When drinking the bad water upon the plains it has often occurred to
me that we do not sufficiently appreciate the luxury of good water in
those more favored parts of our country, where it everywhere abounds .
in the greatest profusion. The suffering produced by the absence of
good water in a journey on the plains during the heat of the summer
months is known only to those who have experienced it. As we have
now passed the gypsum range of country, we do not anticipate any
more difficulty in finding good water.

We shall remain at this place to-morrow, and on the day following

MOUNTAIN PEAKS. 65

propose to ascend Otter creek to the mountains, and passing down
through the chain, shall make a careful and thorough examination of
the geological character of the formation, and any other objects of
interest that may present themselves in our route.

Red river, above the mouth of Otter creek, which was at a stage
above fording when we passed up, is now only two feet deep, and flows
at the rate of about three miles per hour.

Fresh buffalo-tracks have been seen to-day, and six deer and one
turkey brought in by the hunters.

July 13.—This morning, for the first time in several weeks, we have
had a rain, which has refreshed and revivified the whole face of the
country. Previous to this the ground had become so much parched
from the lack of moisture, that vegetation was suffering considerably.
The herbage in the valley of the creek appears to have felt the drought
more than upon the elevated prairies; here it has put on a yellow tinge,
and a perfume is emitted from it similar to that of fresh hay, while upon
the more elevated plains it still retains its deep green attire. Nine
deer have been killed to-day, and I again marked two upon my list.

July 14.—Captain McClellan and ae started out’ this morning to
make an examination of the country along the-upper portion of the
valley of the creek, while the command crossed and encamped about
four miles above our position of last night.

There is much more woodland towards the sources of the stream
than I had supposed. Black walnut, pecan, hackberry, elm, and cotton-
wood, are among’ the varieties of timber found here; the mezquite is
alse abundant near the mountains.

Many of the trees in the bottom are straight and of sufficient dimen-
sions to make good building material, and there is an ample supply for
the farmer’s purposes. The soil in the valley is for the most part a
dark, rich alluvium, sustaining a dense carpet of herbage, and I have no
doubt would yield abundant crops of grain.

The stream extends in two principal branches back to the mountains,
where they receive numerous small tributary rivulets flowing Sei
springs. The course of the principal branch is northeast and southwest,
and is about twenty miles in length. The mountains here appear to be
in groups or clusters of detached peaks of a conical form, indicating a
voleanic origin, with smooth, level glades intervening ; and rising, as
they do, perfectly isolated from all surrounding eminences upon the
plateau of the great prairies, their rugged and precipitous granite sides
almost denuded of vegetation, they present avery peculiar and imposing
feature in the topographical aspect of the country. From the fact that

5

66 DEER-BLEAT.

the ground occupying the space between the mountains is a level,
smooth surface, and exhibits no evidence of upheaval or distortion, may
it not with propriety be inferred that the deposition here is of an origin
subsequent to that of the upheaval of the mountains? |

July 15.—We were in motion at 2 o’clock this morning, and taking
a northeast course towards the base of the mountain chain, passed
through mezquite groves, intersected with several brooks of pure water
flowing into the south branch of Cache creek, upon one of which we are
encamped.

We find the soil good at all places near the mountains, and the
country well wooded and watered. The grass, consisting of several
varieties of the grama, is of a superior quality and grows luxuriantly.
The climate is salubrious, and the almost constant; cool, and bracing
breezes of the summer months, with the entire absence of anything like
marshes or stagnant water, remove all sources of noxious malaria, with
its attendant evils of autumnal fevers.

I was so fortunate as to kill a very large and fat buck to-day, which
adds much relish to the good cheer of our evening meal. Three others
having been brought in by the hunters, our larder is at present well
stocked with meat. Indeed, there has been but a small portion of the
time since we have been out that our excellent hunters have not sup-
plied the entire command with an abundance of fresh meat. Although
we have beef-cattle in the train, we have as yet had no occasion to
make use of one of them.

One of the Delawares has seen fresh buffalo-tracks to-day going to
the southeast, and we still cherish the hope that we may yet encounter
them.

John Bushman, our interpreter, was much surprised to-day, on calling
a doe towards him with a deer-bleat, to see a small fawn following after
its mother; but imagine his astonishment, when immediately behind
the fawn came a huge panther bounding rapidly towards him, and in a
twinkling he fastened his claws in the vitals of his victim. He, however,
in this instance, caught a tartar, and paid dearly for his temerity, as
John, with a spirit of indignation that would have done credit to the
better feelings of any man, raised his rifle, and, instead of killing the
deer, which was entirely at his mercy, planted the contents in the side
of the panther.

The method of hunting deer by the use of the bleat is practised
extensively by the Delawares in this country, and with great success.

They make the bleat somewhat similar to the first joint of a clarionet,
with a brass reed scraped very thin, and applied in the same manner as

MOUNTAIN SPRINGS. 67

upon the clarionet, and so regulate and adjust the instrument by exper-
iment as to imitate almost precisely the cry of the young fawn. They
use them during the months of June and July, before the does have
weaned their young. Riding along near a copse of trees or brush
where they suppose the deer to be lying, they sound their bleats, which
can be heard for half a mile; and as the doe never remains near her
fawn any longer than is necessary to give it food, (when she retires to
an adjoining thicket and makes her bed alone,) she immediately takes
alarm at what she conceives to be a ery of distress from her helpless
offspring, and, in the intensity of her maternal affection, she rushes.at
full speed in the direction of the cry, and frequently comes within a.few
yards of the hunter, who stands ready to give her a death-wound. This
is an unsportsman-like way of hunting deer, and only admissible when
provisions are scarce.

The bear, the wolf, and panther often come at the call of the bleat,
supposing they are to feast upon the tender flesh of the fawn. It might
be supposed that in a country where there are so many carnivorous
animals, the greater portion of the deer would be killed by them while
young; but nature, in the wisdom of its arrangements, has provided the
helpless ttle quadruped with a means of security against their attacks,
which is truly wonderful. It is a well-known fact among hunters that
the deer deposite a much stronger scent upon their tracks than any other
animal, inasmuch as a dog can without difficulty follow them long,after
they have passed at a distance of many yards from the track. Notwith-
standing this, the fawns, until they are sufficiently grown to be able to
make good running, give out no scent whatever upon their tracks, and
a dog of the best nose cannot follow them except by sight. I have often
seen the experiment made, and am perfectly satisfied that such is the
case ; this, therefore, must in a great measure protect them from the
attacks of the wild animals of the country.

July 16.—Our réveille sounded at two, and we were en route at 3
o'clock this morning. Continuing a northeast course for four miles, we
crossed a fine stream of clear water issuing from the mountains and
running into the south branch of Cache ereeck; after travelling three
miles further we passed another, and made our encampment upon a
third: ‘all of these were of about equal magnitude, and similar in
character. They take their rise from springs among the granite mount-
ains, and flow over the detritus and sand at the base; are about twenty
feet wide, with the water clear and rapid. The banks are abrupt, about
ten feet high, and composed of white clay and sandstone. Upon each
of these branches there are large bodies of post-oak timber, much of

68 . ANTI-SCORBUTICS.

which would serve as building-material, and near the bank of the creek
we observed black-walnut.

Within a distance of six miles around our camp, I should estimate the
amount of wood-land at eight thousand acres. The grass is of the very
best quality, and the soil cannot be surpassed for fertility.

We are, at this place, directly at the base of one of the most lofty
and rugged mountains of the range. Its bare and naked sides are
almost destitute of anything in the shape of a tree or plant, and it is
only here and there that a small patch of green can be discerned. Huge
masses of flesh-colored granite, standing out in jagged crags upon the
lofty acclivities, everywhere present themselves to the eye, and the
scenery is most picturesque, grand, and imposing.

We have for a few days past been much annoyed with a species of
large, blaek horse-fly, which attacks the animals most savagely, and
leaves his red mark wherever he touches them. These, with a species of
small black gnat, are the only insects that we have been troubled with.

The two men who for several weeks have been suffering from the
scurvy are no better, and I am fearful, if we do not find the wild onion
soon, that they will be in a bad state.

I have caused all the men of the command to use freely what few
anti-scorbutics we were enabled to procure from the subsistence depart-
ment, as also all the wild vegetables that could be obtained upon the
mar@h; but these do not seem sufficient to fend off the disease, when
men have for a long time been confined exclusively to animal diet and
constantly subjected to other causes that predispose the system to the
disease.

The soldiers are by no means anxious to make use of the anti-scorbutics
from the commissary department, as they are obliged to pay for them
by submitting to a deduction im the amount of their ration, which, at
most, is a very small allowance for men who are marching or laboring
hard. This fact is so well established, that when citizen teamsters are
employed in the quartermaster’s department, it is either necessary to
give them an allowance of fifty per cent. more in the amount of pro-
visions than the soldier gets, or an addition to his pay to enable him to
purchase an equivalent. Doctor Shumard has made use of all the
remedies in his possession in the cases of scurvy that have been under
his treatment, but he is of opinion that they avail but little in the
absence of vegetable diet. Our men have discovered some green grapes
to-day, which I hope may relieve the sick men. Several gentlemen of
the party ascended the mountain near our camp this evening, and
obtained a fine view of the adjoining country. They discovered that

WITCHITA INDIANS. 69

there were three distinct ranges running from northeast to southwest ;
at this place they appear to be united in one chain, and there seems
to be no pass practicable for wagons in this vicinity.

July 17.—Moving out from camp at half-past three this morning,
we journeyed along the southeastern base of the mountains, passing
several spring-brooks of cold, delicious water, flowing from the deep
gorges of the mountain, over the masses of loose rock at the bases, into
the valley below. These brooks are perennial, and this being the dry
season, they are probably now at their lowest stage, yet there is a sufli-
ciency of water for all purposes of farmers and for milling.

The soil continues of an excellent quality, and sustains a heavy
vegetation. In addition to the advantages of rich soil, good timber,
and water, which everywhere abound near the mountains thus far upon
our route, may be added that of the great salubrity of the climate.

The atmosphere in these elevated regions is cool, elastic, and bracing,
and the breezes which sweep across the prairie temper the heat of the
sun, and render it, even in midsummer, cool and comfortable.

The different branches of Cache creek drain a large extent of country,
which might be made available for agricultural purposes, and would be
sufficient to sustain a large population.

The particular district embracing the Witchita mountains has for
many years been occupied and (with much justice, it seems to me)
claimed by the Witchita Indians, who have a tradition that their ori-
ginal progenitor issued from the rocks of these mountains, and that the
Great Spirit gave him and his posterity the country in the vicinity for a
heritage, and here they continued to live and plant corn for a long time.

Notwithstanding this claim of the Witchitas, which the right of
occupancy and possession has guarantied to them, yet the whole of this
beautiful country, as far as the 100th degree of west longitude, is
included in the grant made by the United States to the Choctaws,
who thereby possess the greater part of the lands upon Upper Red river
that are really valuable.

The Witchitas are an insignificant tribe im point of numbers, not
having more than about five hundred souls in the nation, and are not,
of course, prepared to substantiate or enforce their title to this country ;
and, indeed, I very much doubt if they have any claims upon the con-
sideration or generosity of our government, being the most notorious
and inveterate horse-thieves upon the borders, as the early frontier
settlers of Texas can vouch for; and they are only held in restraint
now by fear of the troops near them. They have always been extremely
jealous of the motives of the white people who have wished to penetrate

70 MOUNT SCOTT.

to the interior of their country, and have, upon several occasions,
driven off parties who have attempted to examine the country about
the Witchita mountains.

We are encamped this evening upon a swift-running brook, near a
very cold spring of pure water, which affords a delightful contrast to
the water we have met with upon the Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no. Following
up the large brook into which the spring empties, I found its source in
a most lovely valley, about two miles above our encampment.

This valley, which is enclosed on three sides by lofty and rugged
mountains, is mostly covered with a heavy growth of timber of a very
superior quality. The trees, which are oak, are large, straight, and tall,
and are the best suited to the carpenter’s purposes of any I haye ever
seen west of the “Cross-Timbers.” The soil here possesses great fertility,
and the whole valley teems with an exuberance of verdure.

July 18.—We changed our course this morning to the north, and
passing up the valley of the creek, found a gap or pass in the first chain
of mountains, through which, after much difficulty, we succeeded in
forcing our wagons. This gap, although not very elevated, was broken
up into deep and narrow gorges, filled with the angular debris of the
adjoining heights, over which it required great care and patience to pass
our train in safety. We, however, finally succeeded in reaching the
open prairie upon the north, and found ourselves on the banks of a
large stream, upon which we made our encampment. Our position is
directly at the base of the most elevated mountain in the Witchita
chain, which I have taken the liberty, im honor of our distinguished
commanding general, to call “Mount Scott.” This peak, towering as it
does above all surrounding eminences, presents a very imposing feature
in the landscape, and is a conspicuous landmark for many miles around:
The altitude above the base, as determined by triangulation with the
sextant, is eleven hundred and thirty-five feet.

To the north of Mount Scott lies one of the most beautiful and
romantic valleys that I have ever seen. It is about three miles wide,
enclosed between two ranges of the mountains, and through its centre
winds a lovely stream of pure water, fifty yards wide and two feet deep,
the lively current of which rushes wildly down over an almost contin-
uous succession of rapids and rocky defiles. It is fringed upon each
side with gigantic pecan, overcup, (Quercus macrocarpa,) white-ash,
(Fraxinus Americana,) river-elm (Ulmus nemoralis,) and hackberry
trees, (Celtis.) About the base of the mountains we find an abundance
of post-oak, (Quercus obtusiloba,) and towards the summits, the red
cedar (Juniperus Virginiana) grows.

BUFFALO. 71

The soil in this valley is highly productive, and sustains a heavy
vegetation. The grass is very dense, of a good quality, and from two
to three feet high; and were it not for the large flies that continue to
phlebotomize our animals, they would luxuriate here.

Towards sundown I took my rifle, and, mounting a small Indian
pony belonging to my negro servant, started up the creek for the
purpose of hunting deer. After I had gone about two miles from camp,
I suddenly discovered a buffalo bull very quietly cropping the grass
under some oak trees near the creek. No sooner, however, did I see
him, than, raising his head and giving one look in the direction I was
approaching, he set off at a spanking gallop over the prairie. I applied
the rowels most vigorously to the diminutive beast which I bestrode,
and endeavored, by making a cut-off over the hills, to get within rifle
range; but after exhausting all the efforts of the pony, I only found
myself within about two hundred yards of the buffalo, and gave him a
running salute as he passed, but did not observe him falter or make the
slightest diminution in his speed; whereupon I reluctantly abandoned
the chase and returned to camp.

72 OLD INDIAN VILLAGES.

CHAPTER VIII.

OLD INDIAN VILLAGES—BEAUTIFUL SCENERY—TRAP FORMATION—LOST MULE—
BEAVER CREEK——PRAIRIE GUIDES—RUSH CREEK—WITCHITA AND WACO VIL-
LAGES——MEXICAN PRISONERS—TALK WITH THE INDIANS—CROSS TIMBERS—KICKA-
POOS—-STRIKE WAGON TRACK-—~ARRIVAL AT FORT ARBUCKLE.

July 19.—At daylight this morning we crossed the creek after having
excavated a passage for the wagons in the high banks, and travelled
down the valley along the outer border of the timber in the bottom.
The country over which we marched was of a similar character to that
described about our last camp, and equally beautiful. We passed two
old Indian villages, which John Bull, one of the hunters, says were
formerly occupied by the Witchitas and Keechis; several of the lodges
were still standing, with their old corn-fields near by.

Our camp is upon the creek about a mile above the village last oecu-
pied by the Witchitas before they left the mountains. Here they lived
and planted corn for several years, and they have exhibited much taste
and judgment in the selection of the site for their town. It is situated
at the eastern extremity of the mountains, upon a plateau directly
along the south bank of the creek, and elevated about a hundred feet
above it, commanding an extended view of the country towards the
north, south, and east. From its commanding position it is well secured
against surprise, and is by nature altogether one of the most defensible
places I have seen.

The landscape which is here presented to the eye has a most charm-
ing diversity of scenery, consisting of mountains, wood-lands, glades,
water-courses, and prairies, all laid out and arranged in such peculiar
order as to produce a witching effect upon the senses.

This must have been a favorite spot for the Indians; and why they
have abandoned it I cannot imagine, unless it was through fear of the
Comanches. It is only two years since they removed from here, and
their lodge-frames are still standing, with the scaffolds upon which they
dried their corn.

The soil, in point of fertility, surpasses anything we have before seen,
and the vegetation in the old corn-fields is so dense, that it was with
great difficulty I could force my horse through it. It consisted of rank
weeds, growing to the height of twelve feet. Soil of this character must
have produced an enormous yield of corn. The timber is sufficiently

AGRICULTURAL CAPACITY OF THE COUNTRY. 73

abundant for all purposes of the agriculturist, and of a superior quality.
Most of the varieties of hard wood, such as overcup, post-oak, black-
walnut, pecan, hackberry, ash, black or Spanish oak, (Quercus elongata,)
elm, and china, besides cotton-wood and willow, are found here. We
also found the wild passion flower, (Passiflora incarnata,) and a beau-
tiful variety of the sensitive plant which we have not met with before.

Directly opposite the village, upon the north side, there is a large
body of timber.which extends across to the eastern branch of Cache
ereek ; this unites with the branch upon which we are encamped, about a
mile below the village.

Upon the south bank of the creek there is an immense natural
meadow, clothed with luxuriant grasses, where hay might be procured
sufficient to subsist immense numbers of cattle. Opposite our camp
the creek flows directly at the base of a perpendicular wall of
porphyritic trap, three hundred feet high, studded with dwarf cedars,
which, taking shallow root in the crevices of the formation, receive
their meagre sustenance from the scanty decomposition of the rocks.
This escarpment has a columnar structure, with the flutings parallel
and traversing the face in a vertical direction from top to bottom, and
has the appearance of being the vertical section of a round hill that has
been cleft asunder and one half removed, there being no appearance of
a continuation of the formation upon the opposite bank of the creek.
All the sides of this hill, except that upon the creek, are smooth, with
gentle and easy slopes, covered with grass up to the very verge of the
acclivity. On riding up the smooth ascent of this eminence, and sud-
denly coming upon the edge of the giddy precipice, one involuntarily
recoils back with a shudder at the appearance of this strange freak of
nature. Large veins of quartz were seen traversing this formation, and
upon an examination of specimens we found it to be cellular or spongy,
with the cells filled with liquid naphtha of about the consistence of tar,
and having a strong resinous odor.

We have now reached the eastern extremity of the Witchita chain of
mountains, and shall to-morrow morning cross the main creek below
the village and strike our course for Fort Arbuckle, this being the nearest,
military post, and in our course for Fort Smith.

The more we have seen of the country about these mountains, the
more pleased we have been with it. Indeed, I have never visited any
country that in my opinion possessed greater natural local advantages
for agriculture than this. Bounteous nature seems here to have strewed
her favors with a lavish hand and to have held out every inducement
for civilized man to occupy it. The numerous tributaries of Cache creek

74 LOSS OF A MULE.

flowing from granite fountains, and winding like net-work in every
direction through the valleys in the mountains—with the advantages of
good timber, soil and grass, the pure, elastic, and delicious climate, with
a bracing atmosphere—all unite in presenting rare inducements to the
husbandman. It would only be necessary for our practical farmers to
visit this locality: they could not be otherwise than pleased with it; and
were it not for the fact that the greater part of the most desirable lands
lie east. of the 100th meridian of longitude, and within the limits of
that vast territory ceded by our government.to the Choctaws, it
would be purchased and settled by our citizens in a very few years. As
it is now situated far beyond the limits of the settlements, and directly
within the range of the Comanches, it is of no use to the Choctaws
themselves, as they do not venture among the prairie tribes, and do not
even know the character of this part of their own territory. They have
a superabundance of fertile lands bordering upon the Red and Canadian
rivers, near the white settlements of Texas and Arkansas, and they prefer
occupying those to going further out. They have thrown aside their
primitive habits in a great degree, and abandoned the precarious and
uncertain life of the hunter for the more quiet avocation of the husband-
man. They look upon the wild Indian in much the same light as we
do, and do not go among them; indeed, there is but little in common
with them and the wild Indians.*
In consequence of losing one of our mules last night, we were de-
tained later than usual this morning. Two of the Delawares went out at
day-light in search of it, but returned in about two hours, not having
been able to strike the track. We had up to this time been so fortunate
as to lose no animals. I was therefore particularly desirous that the
lost mule should be recovered, and intimated as much to our inter-
preter, John Bushman, who had not joined in the first search. At the
same time, I asked him what he thought were the chances of success.
He replied, in his laconic and non-committal style, “I think maybe so
find um—maybe not.” I directed him to make an effort, and not
give over the search as long as there remained the least prospect of

*The lands included within the Choctaw reservation, which are not occupied
or made use of by them, are embraced within the 97th and 100th degrees of
west longitude, and are bounded upon the north and south by the Canadian and
Red rivers, being about one hundred and eighty miles in length by fifty in width,
and constituting an aggregate of about nine thousand square miles of valuable and
productive lands, or one thousand square miles more than the State of Massa-
chusetts.

PERSEVERANCE OF THE GUIDES. 75

success. We then packed our wagons and started on towards Fort
Arbuckle, crossing the creek below the old village, where it was forty
yards wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current flowing over a
bed of gravel.

Upon the east bank of the ereek we passed over a broad and level
piece of bottom-land, covered with a dense crop of wild rice, gnd other
rich grasses. We then left the valley in a course north of east, over the
ridge dividing Cache from Beaver creek, until we reached a branch of
the latter, upon which we encamped. The timber here is large and
abundant; the water fresh, but standing in pools; and the soil good. I
have crossed this same stream at four different places below here, and
have invariably found the soil of a similar character and the timber large»
consisting of pecan, elm, hackberry, oak, cotton-wood, and walnut, and
generally confind to the borders of the stream.

Our most excellent and indefatigable hunter, John Bushman, re-
turned this evening with the lost mule, having tracked him for twenty
miles from where he left us. He had also killed a buffalo during the
day, and brought us a piece’ of the hump. He states that from the
time the mule left us until he overtook him he had continued to travel,
without stopping, directly to the north, and at right-angles to the
course we had been pursuing. I inquired of him if he did not be-
come almost discouraged before he came up with the animal. He said
no; that I had ordered him not to return without him, and that he
should have been on the track yet if he had not overtaken him. I have
no doubt such would have been the case, for he is a man of eminently
determinate and resolute character, with great powers of endurance, and
amost acute and vigilant observer, accompanied by prominent organs
of locality and sound judgment. These traits of character, with the
abundant experience he has had upon the plains, make him one of the
very best guides I have ever met with. He never sees a place once
without instantly recognising it on seeing it the second time, notwith-
standing he may approach it from a different direction; and the very
moment he takes a glance over a district of country he has never seen be-
fore, he will almost invariably point out the particular localities (if there
are any such) where water can be found, when to others there seems to
be nothing to indicate it. Such qualifications render the services of these
people highly important, and almost indispensable in a tour upon the
prairies.

An incident which was related to me as.occurring with one of these
guides a few years since, forcibly illustrates their character. The oflicer
having charge of the party to which he was attached sent him out to

76 INDIANS,

examine a trail he had met with upon the prairie, for the purpose of
ascertaining where it would lead to, The guide, after following it as
far as he supposed he would be required to do, returned and reported
that it led off into the prairies to no particular place, so far as he could
discover. He was told that this was not satisfactory, and directed to
take the trail again and to follow it until he gained the required in-
formation ; he accordingly went out the second time, but did not return
that day, nor the next, and the party, after a time, began to be alarmed
for his safety, fearing he might have been killed by the Indians. Days
and weeks passed by, but still nothing was heard of the guide, until,
on arriving at the first border settlement, to their astonishment, he
made his appearance among them, and, approaching the commanding
officer said, “ Captain, that trail which you ordered me to follow ter-
minates here.” He had, with indomitable and resolute energy, traversed
alone several hundred miles of wild and desolate prairie, with nothing
but his gun to depend upon for a subsistence, determined this time
to carry out the instructions of his employer to the letter.

July 21—We crossed two small branches this morning at four
o'clock, and continued our course over undulating prairies, with smooth
and even surfaces, frequently crossing small affluents of Beaver creek,
where we found good running spring water, which can always be relied
upon. :

We had a copious shower this morning, which is the first rain that
has fallen in several weeks.

There is good timber and grass upon all the branches we have passed
to-day, and the soil is highly productive. We have also passed several
groves of post-oak timber upon the ridges; this, however, for the most
part, is small, short, and scrubby. ¢

July 22.—Making an early start at two o’clock this morning, we
ascended the eastern branch of Beaver creek to its source, when we
found ourselves upon the ridge dividing this stream from Rush creek.
The ridge is covered with timber similar to that of the Cross-Tim-
bers, consisting of post-oak and black-jack, (Quereus ferruginea.)

Our road leads for five miles through this timber, when it emerges
into a beautiful meadow, where the head of one of the branches of Rush
creek takes its rise in large springs, and runs off in a fine bold stream,
with a variety of hard timber along its borders. After following down
this about two miles, we suddenly came in sight of several squaws
who were collecting the tall.grass which grows along the banks of the
creek. They no sooner espied us than they jumped upon their horses
and were about making off; most of them, however, stopped at the

WITCHITA VILLAGE. vi |

command of our interpreter, while one or two galloped away in the
direction of the village to give notice of our approach. They proved
to be Wacos and Witchitas, and informed us that their villages were
about four miles in advance, at the same time inviting us to pay them
a visit. We reached the villages (which were situated upon the
banks of Rush creek) and encamped about half a mile below them in
the valley.

Immediately. on our arrival we were accosted by a large crowd of
men, who were anxious to learn where we had been, and whether we
had seen any Comanches; and as we were (I think) the first party of
whites who had visited them at this place, they appeared very glad to
see us—probably in anticipation of presents.

There are two villages here occupied by the Witchitas and Wacos
respectively; they are situated in the rich and fertile valley of the creek,
where they have cultivated corn, pumpkins, beans, peas, and melons.
These people have no ploughs, or other agricultural instruments, but a
small hoe, with which they prepare the ground for the reception of the
seed, and do all other necessary work in its cultivation; yet the pro-
lific soil gives them bountiful returns; and were it not for their im-
provident natures, they might, with little labor, have sufficient for the
whole year. Instead of this, they only care for the present, and from
the time the corn is fit for roasting, are continually eating and feasting
until it is gone. They are then obliged to depend upon the precarious
results of the chase during the remainder of the year.

The village of the Witchitas has forty-two lodges, each containing
two families of about ten persons. These lodges are made by erecting
a frame-work of poles placed in a circle in the ground, with the tops
united in an oval form, and bound together with numerous withes or
wattles, the whole nicely thatched with grass; and when completed,
it makes a very commodious and comfortable domicil. The interior
arrangements are such, that every person has a bunk, raised from the
ground and covered with buffalo-hides, forming a couch which is far
from being uncomfortable. When seated around their fires in the
centre of the lodges, they have an air of domestic happiness about them
which I did not expect to find.

The lodges are about twenty-five feet in diameter at the base, twenty
feet high, and in the distance have very much the appearance of a group
of hay-stacks. With the exception of a few families that live upon the
Canadian, the whole Witchita nation is concentrated at this place: their
numbers do not exceed five hundred souls. ‘They have during the early
settlement of Texas given more trouble to the people upon the northern

78 REPORTED LOSS OF OUR PARTY.

borders of that State than any other Indians. They have no regard for
truth, will steal, and are wholly unworthy of the least confidence, and
their vicious propensities are only kept in check now from fear.

Living, as they do, between the white settlements and the prairie
tribes, they are at the mercy of both; they seem to be conscious of this
fact, and express a desire to be on terms of friendship with all their
neighbors. At my urgent request they presented us with several
bushels of green corn this evening, which was very acceptable, Ss we had
seen no veretables for several months.

The Wacos live about a mile above the Witchitas, in a village con-
structed precisely like the other. There are twenty lodges in this vil-
lage, and about two hundred souls; their habits and customs are similar
to the Witchitas, with whom they frequently intermarry, and are upon
the best and most friendly terms.

Both of these tribes subsist for a great portion of the year upon buf-
falo and deer, and wear the buffalo robes, like the Comanches. They
also use the bow and arrow for killing game; some of them, however,
are provided with rifles, and are good shots. They have»a large stock
of horses and mules, many of which are the small Spanish breed with
the Mexican brand upon them, and have probably been obtained from
the prairie tribes; while others are large, well-formed animals, and have
undoubtedly been stolen from the border white settlers.

We learned from the Witchitas, much to our surprise, that a report
had been made to the commanding officer at Fort Arbuckle, by a Keechi
Indian, to the effect that our whole party had been overpowered and
massacred by the Comanches near the head of Red river. This inform-
ation must have originated with the Comanches or Kioways, as they
are the only tribes inhabiting the country about the sources of the river;
neither the Keechies nor the Witchitas ever venture as far out into the
plains as we have been.

The account given by the Indian was so circumstantial and minute
in every particular, showing a perfect knowledge of all our movements,
with our numbers and equipment, that the information was evidently
communicated by persons who were near us at the time, and observing our
movements. This accounts for the fact of their avoiding us upon all
occasions, although we saw them several times, as has been observed,”
and frequently passed their camps that had been abandoned but a short
time, yet they never came to us or communicated with us. They
probably regarded us as out upon a hostile expedition, going into their
country to chastise them for their depredations, and may have supposed
that the report of our having been massacred would deter other parties
from following us.

MEXICAN PRISONERS. 79

The old chief of the Witchitas (To-se-quash) informed us that Pah-
hah-en-ka’s band of the “ Middle Comanches,” in consequence of some
of their people having been killed near one of the military posts in
Texas, were much exasperated, and had burnt up the testimonials of
good character given to them by United States authorities. They had
always before preserved these papers with great care, and manifested
much pride and satisfaction in exhibiting them to strangers. To-se-
quash says they are now “very mad,” and will fight us whenever they
meet us.

July 23.—As it rained during the night, and still continues, we did
not move forward to-day. During the morning I sent for the chiefs of
the two villages, for the purpose of endeavoring to persuade them to
surrender to me two Mexican prisoners in their possession: one a man
about forty years of age, and the other a boy of fifteen. The man
stated that he had been with the Witchitas since he was a child, and he
was not now disposed to leave them; that he had become as great a
rascal as any of the Indians, (which I gave full credence to,) and should
not feel at home anywhere else.

It appeared, however, that the boy had only been with them a few
months. He states that he was kidnapped by the Kioways from his
‘ home near Chihuahua; that in consequence of their brutal treatment
he escaped and made his way to the Witchita mountains, where a
Witchita hunter found him in nearly a famished state, and brought
him to this place. He says he has been kindly treated by the Witchitas,
but is anxious to leave them and go with us. He appears to be very
intelligent, and reads and writes in his own language.

In a talk with the chiefs, I told them that the American people were
now on terms of friendship with the Mexicans, and in a treaty we had
obligated ourselves to return to them all prisoners in the hands of
Indians in our territory, and to prevent further depredations being com-
mitted upon them; that the principal chief of the whites (the Presi-
dent) would not regard any tribe of Indians as friends who acted in
violation of this treaty; that he confidently hoped and expected all the
tribes who were friendly to our people would comply strictly with the
requirements of the treaty, and give up all prisoners in their possession.
I then requested them to release to me the boy, and told them if they
did this I should make them some presents of articles that had been
sent out by the President for such of his red children as were his friends.
They hesitated for a long time, stating that the boy belonged to a
Waco, and he loved him so much, that it was doubtful if he could be
persuaded to part with him. Whereupon I told them that if they re-

80 INDIAN THEFTS.

leased the boy quietly, I should reward them ; but otherwise I had deter-
mined to take him from them by force, and if compelled to resort to this
course, should give them nothing in return. This appeared to have the
desired effect, and they said if I would make the family into which he
had been adopted a few presents, in addition to what I had promised
them, they would release him. I accordingly distributed the presents,
and took possession of the boy. Upon turning him over to us they
divested him of the few rags of covering that hung about his person
and reluctantly gave him to us, and he makes his exit from the Witch-
ita nation in the same costume in which he entered the world. We
soon had him comfortably clothed, and he is much delighted with the
change. Captain McClellan will take him to San Antonio, from which
place he will communicate with his relatives.

July 24.—We left the Witchita village at 4 o’clock this morning,
and intended to have followed the trail which the Indians travel to
Fort Arbuckle, but soon discovered that it crossed numerous brooks
running through deep gullies impassable for wagons, which made it ne-
cessary for us to turn south towards the dividing ridge~between Rush
creek and Wild Horse creek. We followed this ridge for seven miles,
and encamped upon a small affluent of Wild Horse creek. In our
march to-day we passed over an elevated, waving country, interspersed
with groves of oak. Upon each side of the dividing ridge are numerous
small spring branches, flowing off to the right and left, and upon these
there is an abundance of good timber, with soil of the best quality. We
have passed the range of the grama grass, but still find the mezquite and
other varieties of wild grasses, upon which our animals continue to thrive,
and keep in excellent condition. After we had proceeded some ten miles
upon our march this morning, we discovered that our friends the Witchi-
tas had, in the characteristic style of their hospitality, abstracted from
one of our wagons several articles which they probably supposed would
be more useful to them than to us. Unfortunately, we were too far from
the village to admit of going back and making them restore the articles.
Our Spanish boy states that before he left, they. advised him to seize the
first opportunity that should offer to steal one of our horses, and make
his escape to them.

July 25.—Our wagons were packed, and we were in motion at about
3 o'clock this morning, in a course nearly due east, down the right bank
of Wild Horse creek for eight miles, when we entered the Cross-Timbers
upon the ridge dividing this stream from Mud creek, (an affluent of
Red river which puts in above the Washita.) Our encampment this

COMPLETION OF JOURNEY. 81

evening is upon the border of a ravine in the timber, where we find
good water and grass. :

In our march to-day we have passed the heads of several branches
running into Wild Horse, Beaver, Rush, and Mud creeks, upon all of
which there is an exuberant vegetation, denoting a fertile soil. The
timber is abundant and of a good quality, and the water, issuing from
springs, is perennial. I have passed through the Cross-Timbers at five
different points before this, and have always found them similar in char-
acter and composition.

Some Kickapoo hunters came into camp this evening, and we could
not but remark the striking contrast between them and the Witch-
itas. They were fine-looking, well-dressed young men, with open,
frank, and intelligent countenances, and seemed to scorn the idea of
begging; while the others, as has been observed, are incessantly beg-
ging every article they see, and do not possess the slightest gratitude for
favors received.

July 26.—At daylight this morning we resumed our march through
the Cross-Timbers, keeping the dividing ridge for two miles, when we
turned to the left and passed down near Wild Horse creek; but we
found small streams, with abrupt banks, crossing our course so frequently
that we had much difficulty in making progress. We, however, by
hard labor in digging down banks and cutting through dense thickets,
. sueceeded in making eight miles, and encamped upon a small spring
branch in the Cross-Timbers. A short distance before we reached our
present position we fell into an old Indian trail, where some wagons had
passed several years before. We noticed where several small trees had
been cut, and where the bark had been scraped off from others by the
ends of the axles as they passed along.

July 27.—As soon as it was sufliciently light to enable us to see the
trail this morning, we started on, keeping the old wagon trace through
the timber for eight miles, when it led us into a road I had made the
last season, between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Belknap, at a point four-
teen miles from the former post. As soon as the men came in sight of
this, they gave a prolonged and simultaneous shout of joy; it seemed
to them like greeting an old familiar acquaintance: it was the first
place they had recognised in several months, and. it brought them
near home.

The axes and spades were laid by in the wagons, as our labors in
road-making terminate here; and I have no doubt the command are
heartily rejoiced upon the occasion, as their duty since we left the

Witchita mountains has been very laborious. Two miles after striking
6

82 SAFE RETURN OF THE PARTY.

the road we emerged from the Cross-Timbers, and passing over a range
of low mountains lying south of Wild Horse Creek valley, encamped
nine miles from Fort Arbuckle.

July 28.—At one o’clock this morning we were upon the road
again, and at daylight marched into Fort Arbuckle, where we found
our friends much astonished and delighted at our sudden appearance
among them, when they had supposed us all massacred by the Coman-
ches. We are much indebted to the kind hospitality of the officers
stationed here for the generous supply of vegetables with which they
furnished one entire command during our stay with them. After an
exclusive diet of meat and bread for several months, we could not have
had a more welcome present than the fine fresh vegetables which their
gardens afforded.

I shall remain here for two or three days to dispose of the stores on
our hands, recruit our animals, and get the company in readiness to
return to its station at Fort Belknap, under charge of Lieutenant Up-
degraff.

I feel a sincere regret at parting with the company, as the uniform
good conduct of the men during the entire march of about a thousand
miles merits my most sincere and heartfelt approbation. I haye sel-
dom had occasion even to reprimand one of them. All have performed
the arduous duties assigned them with the utmost alacrity and good
will; and when (as was sometimes the case) we were obliged to make
long marches, and drink the most disgusting water for several days
together, instead of murmuring and making complaints, they were
cheerful and in good spirits. JI owe them, as well as the officers and
gentlemen who were with me, my most hearty thanks for their cordial
co-operation with me in all the duties assigned to the expedition. It is
probably in a great measure owing to this harmonious action on the
part of all persons attached to the expedition, that it has resulted so
fortunately.

We have lost no men by death, and, with the exception of the two
cases of scurvy, there has been no sickness of consequence. And in-
stead of any of our animals dying or straying away, we have had the
especial good fortune of adding three horses, which we found upon the
plains, to the number we received at the commencement of the march.

The animals, and particularly the oxen, many of which were so poor
when they left Preston as to be considered almost useless, have all
returned in fine condition, and are now much better capable of per-
forming service than when they came into our hands,

PROMINENT FEATURES OF RED RIVER. 83

CHAPTERIX,

PROMINENT FEATURES OF RED RIVER—FLOODS—CHAIN OF LAKES—CROSS-TIM-
BERS—ARABLE LANDS—ESTABLISHMENT OF A MILITARY POST UPON RED RIVER
RECOMMENDED—ROUTE OF COMANCHES AND KIQWAYS IN PASSING TO MEXICO-—
WAGON-ROUTE FROM FORT BELKNAP TO SANTA FE-—-NAVIGATION OF RED RIVER——
ERRONEOUS OPINIONS IN REGARD TO RED RIVER-—-EXTENSIVE GYPSUM RANGE-—EL
LLANO ESTACADO.

In a comprehensive review of the physical characteristics of the
particular section of Red river which is comprised within the limits of
the district assigned to the attention of the expedition, it will not
perhaps be considered irrelevant to make a few general observations
upon the more prominent features of the country bordering upon this
stream, from its confluence with the Mississippi to its sources. It will
be observed, by reference to a map of the country enbracing the basin
of this river, that in ascending from the mouth, its general direction
as high as Fulton, Arkansas, is nearly north and south; that here it
suddenly changes its course and maintains a direction almost due east
and west to its sources. One of the first peculiarities which strikes the
mind on a survey of the topography of this extensive district of country,
is the general uniformity of its surface: with the exception of the
Witchita range no extensive chains of lofty mountains diversify the per-
spective, and but few elevated hills rise up to relieve the monotony of
the prospect. Another distinguishing feature of this river is, that the
country on its upper waters differs in every respect from that in the
vicinity of its mouth. The valley is found to comprise two great geo-
graphical sections, each having physical characteristics entirely distinct
from the other. The main branch of the river from the point where
it debouches out of the Staked Plain, flows through an arid prairie
country almost entirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of light
and shifting sands, for a distance, measured upon its sinuosities, of some
five hundred miles, This country for the most part is subject to peri-
odical seasons of drought, which preclude the possibility of cultivation
except by means of artificial irrigation. It then enters a country covered
with forest-trees of gigantic dimensions, growing upon an alluvial soil
of the most pre-eminent fertility, which sustains a very diversified sylva,
and affords to the planter the most bountiful returns of all the products

84 _CROSS-TIMBERS.

suited to this latitude. On entering this section of the river we find
that the borders contract, and the water, for a great portion of the year,
washes both banks, at a high stage carrying away the loose alluvium
from one side and depositing it upon the other in such a manner as to
produce constant changes in the channel and to render the navigation
difficult. This character prevails through the remainder of its course
to the Delta of the Mississippi, and throughout this section it is subject
to heavy inundations, which often flood the bottoms to such a degree as
to produce very serious consequences to the planters, destroying their
crops, and, upon subsiding, occasionally leaving a deposite of white sand
over the surface, rendering it thenceforth entirely barren and worthless,

Below the great raft a chain of lakes continues to skirt the river for
more than a hundred miles: these are supposed to have been formed in
the ancient channels and low grounds of former streams, whose discharge
had gradually been obstructed by an embankment formed of the sedi-
mentary matter brought down the river from above.

These lakes are from five to fifty miles in length, from a quarter
to three miles wide, and are filled and emptied alternately as the floods
in Red river rise and fall: they serve as reservoirs, which in the inunda-
tion ot the banks of the river receive a great quantity of water, and, as
it subsides, empty their contents gradually, thereby tending to impede
the rapid discharge of the floods upon the Delta. Like all rivers of
great length which drain a large extent of country, Red river is subjected
to periodical seasons of high and low water. The floods occur at very
uniform epochs, but the quantity and elevation of the water, as well as
its continuance at a high stage, vary constantly.

During the winter the water often remains high for several months,
but the heavy rise which has almost invariably been observed during
the month of June, often subsides ih a very few days.

The geographical position of the sources of Red river being in latitude
34° 42’ and longitude 103° 7’ 10,” and its confluence with the Missis-
sippi in latitude about 31° and longitude 91° 50,’ it extends over
three and a half degrees of latitude and eleven degrees of longitude.
The barometrical elevation of its sources above the sea is twenty-four
hundred and fifty feet. The estimated distance by the meanderings of
the stream from the mouth to Preston, Texas, is sixteen hundred miles,
and from this point to the sources of the main branch five hundred
more, making the entire length of the river two thousand one hundred
miles.

On emerging from the timbered lands upon Red river into the great
plains, we pass through a strip of forest called the Cross-Timbers.

EXTENT OF ARABLE LAND. 85

This extensive belt of woodland, which forms one of the most prominent
and anomalous features upon the face of the country, is from five to
thirty miles wide, and extends from the Arkansas river in a southwesterly
direction to the Brazos, some four hundred miles.

At six different points where I have passed through it, I have found it
characterized by the same peculiarities; the trees, consisting principally
of post-oak and black-jack, standing at such intervals that wagons can
without difficulty pass between them in any direction. The soil is thin,
sandy, and poorly watered. This forms a boundary-line, dividing the
country suited to agriculture from the great prairies, which, for the most
part, are arid and destitute of timber. It seems to have been designed
as a natural barrier between civilized man and the savage, as, upon the
east side, there are numerous spring-brooks, flowing over a highly
prolific soil, with a superabundance of the best of timber, and an exu-
berant vegetation, teeming with the delightful perfume of flowers of the
most brilliant hues; here and there interspersed with verdant glades and
small prairies, affording inexhaustible grazing, and the most beautiful
natural meadows that can be imagined; while on the other side com-
mence those barren and desolate wastes, where but few small streams
greet the eye of the traveller, and these are soon swallowed up by the
thirsty sands over which they flow: here but little woodland is found,
except on the immediate borders of the water-courses.

From the point where Red river leaves the timbered lands, the
entire face of the country, as if by the wand of a magician, suddenly
changes its character. The bluffs now approach nearer the river, and
the alluvial bottoms, which below here have been exceedingly rich and
productive, contract, and do not support that dense and rank vegetation
which characterizes the lower portion of the valley. The undergrowth
of cane-brakes and vines disappears, and is no more seen throughout
the entire extent of the valley. The lands adjacent gradually rise, and
exhibit broad and elevated swells of surface, with spacious valleys inter-
vening, and the soil continues to become more and more sterile as we
ascend, until we reach the 101st degree of longitude, when from this
point, with few exceptions, there is no more arable land.

Previous to my departure upon the expedition, I had been led to
believe, from the representations of the Indians and others, that after
—s Cache creek, no more good timber or land suited to cultivation
would be met with upon the waters of Red river; but in this (as will
have been observed) I was greatly in error, as we found much good
timber and fertile land above this point.

The country drained by the numerous branches of Cache creek alone

86 REMAINS OF CAMPS.

is very large, and possesses, in a remarkable degree, all the elements
necessary for constituting a rich and productive agricultural district.

Including the valleys embraced within the Witchita mountains, there
are upon a very moderate estimate, at least from seventy-five to eighty
thousand acres of tillable lands upon the waters of this stream. In the
valley of Otter creek there are also several thousand acres of rich
alluvial lands, with timber in abundance; and upon Elk, Sweetwater,
and the other small affluents of the North Fork, much land is found
which would rank with our government surveyors as “first rate” in
quality. All these would make up an aggregate of at least one hundred
and fifty thousand acres of land, upon which cotton, corn, and most
other grains, could be produced abundantly.

Could they be persuaded to lay aside their wandering habits and
cultivate the soil, the amount of land here alluded to would be more
than sufficient to sustain all the natives inhabiting this section of coun-
try; and the luxuriant and nutritious grasses which everywhere abound
throughout the entire extent of the river basin, would furnish an inex-
haustible amount of forage and grazing for their numerous animals.
The winters here are mild, and it is seldom that the snow covers the
ground more than a day or two at atime. There is a constant supply
of good running-water upon all the minor tributaries to the North
Fork, and sufficient woodland to supply farmers with fuel for a great
number of years.

The soil in the valley of the main trunk of the river, as well as upon
the Salt Fork, is thin and sandy, with very little timber or palatable
water; and the country here possesses but few of the requisites essential
to agriculture.

The Comanches and Kioways resort in great numbers to the waters
of the north fork of Red river, where they find forage for their animals
abundant during the winter months. Vestiges of their camps were
everywhere observed along the whole course of the valley, from the
Witchita mountains to the sources; and the numerous remains of the
stumps of trees which had been cut down by them at different periods,
indicated that this had been a favorite resort for them during many
years. In several places we found camps that had only been deserted
but a few days, and some where the fires were still burning. From the
great extent of surface upon which the grass was cropped at some of
these eamping-places, and from the multitude of tracks still remaining,
we inferred that they were supplied with immense numbers of animals;
and they are undoubtedly attracted here by the superior quality of the
grass, and the great abundance of cotton-wood which is found along

NECESSITY OF A NEW POST. 87

the borders of the streams, upon the bark of which they fatten their
favorite horses in the winter season.

_ Should the government authorities ever have oceasion to communicate
with these Indians, I have no doubt that many of them can always be
found during the autumn, winter, and spring months along this branch
of Red river; during the summer they leave and travel north in pursuit
of the buffalo, generally ranging between the north fork of the Cana-
dian and the Arkansas river.

We observed but few places upon the main branch of the river
where the Indians had made their encampments. We, however, saw
trails where they are accustomed to travel, crossing this branch and
leading south towards the Brazos; indeed, a party with about fifty
horses and mules had travelled along the bed of the Ke-che-a-qui-
ho-no, through the gorge to the head of the river, but a short time pre-
vious to our passing.

The military posts already established upon the southwestern borders
of Texas, with the two occupied by the fifth infantry in the direction of
the headwaters of the Brazos, undoubtedly exercise a good influence
over the southern Comanches who frequent that section; but there is a
vast tract of country to the north of this, extending across Red river
and the Canadian to the Arkansas, where there is no military post until
reaching Fort Atkinson, upon the Santa Fé trace. Fort Arbuckle and
Fort Scott are near the settlements, and they are now entirely out of the
range of the prairie tribes. The northern and middle Comanches and
the Kioways occupy this country, and go and come when and where
they choose without the knowledge of any of our military authorities.
These Indians probably commit more depredations upon the northern
provinces of Mexico than any others. In passing back and forth upon
these forays, they were formerly in the habit of taking a route crossing
the Brazos and Colorado rivers, in the vicinity of some of the military
posts in Western Texas; but since they have become acquainted with
the localities of these posts, I have been informed by the Indians ~
that they were so much harassed by the troops as to cause them to
change their route; and now they generally pass to the north and west,
entirely around this chain of posts.

Tt is a well-known fact, that whenever depredations have been com-
mitted by the Indians along the western borders of Texas, the perpe-
- trators have almost invariably come from the north and returned in that
direction; and when pursued, their trace has generally been found to
lead towards Red river, in the direction of the western extremity of the
Witchita chain of mountains. Such was the fact in the recent instances

88 SITES FOR A MILITARY POST.

where animals were stolen from the posts upon the Brazos, and 1 cannot
but believe, if there had been a garrison at some point upon Red river
in the vicinity of the, mountains, that the stolen animals might in a
majority of cases have been recovered, and the authors of the depreda-
tions detected. Heretofore the troops stationed upon the Brazos, when
sent in pursuit of Indians who had stolen animals, have followed them
until their provisions were consumed, and have then been obliged to
abandon the trail and turn back before coming near them; whereas, if
they had started out from a post upon Red river, they would probably
have been enabled to carry provisions sufficient to have served them
until they could have reached the eneampments where the freebooters
had left their families.

A garrison established near the western extremity of the Witchita
range of mountains would be in the heart of the Comanche country,
and near the point where they cross Red river upon their marauding
expeditions into Texas and Mexico.

The military authorities stationed here would have an opportunity of
becoming acquainted with the chiefs, and with the character and habits
of the Indians frequenting this section, and would have greater facilities
for gaining their confidence and removing the unfavorable impression
which they have heretofore entertained towards Americans. Believing
that our government contemplates taking their hunting-grounds from
them, they have always been suspicious of the motives of the whites
who have visited their country; so much so, that upon one occasion
they massacred a party of twenty men who attempted to survey a tract
of land in Western Texas. They desire, therefore, to remain as far as
possible away from the white settlements.

If troops were quartered in their country anywhere in the vicinity of
the point I have mentioned, the Indians would by degrees become
familiarized to their presence, and in time learn that instead of domg
them injustice, the policy of our government towards them is such as
would ultimately conduce to their welfare and prosperity.

At almost any point throughout the Witchita mountains, all the
requisites for building and sustaining a military post are found in great
profusion. The quality of the timber, soil, and water, are all far superior
to that near the posts upon the Brazos river; and I firmly believe there
is no more salubrious climate in the universe.

In my humble judgment, in view of what has been said, a military .
post established in the vicinity of these mountains, and garrisoned by
a force of sufficient strength to command the respect of the Indians,
would add more to the efficiency of the army in checking their depre-

HEAD OF NAVIGATION. 89

dations than any other position that is now occupied by the troops in
Western Texas. This post would be about one hundred and forty miles
distant from Fort Arbuckle; two hundred miles from Fort Washita;
and one hundred and twenty from Fort Belknap; and being near Red
river, (which it is believed will prove navigable, at a good stage of
water, nearly as high as this point,) the troops could probably be fur-
nished with supplies at a lower rate than at any of the military posts
in this part of the country equi-distant from the seacoast.

Should it become necessary to march troops or transport supplies
between the military posts upon the headwaters of the Brazos and Santa
Fé, a better route cannot be desired for wagons than the one we have
followed from Fort Belknap to the confluence of Cache creek, continu-
ing up the north fork of Red river to near its source in the Staked
Plain, and thence across in a northwesterly direction to the Canadian
river, upon the south bank of which will be found a distinctly-marked
wagon-trace, travelled by California emigrants in the summer of 1849,
which leads in a very direct course, over firm and smooth ground, to
Santa Fé. There is a bountiful supply of all that is essential to the
comfort of the traveller and his animals upon this route; and good
wood, water, and grass, are found so abundantly along the entire dis-
tance, that he need not make a single encampment without them all.
The distance, measured along the route over which we travelled, from
Fort Belknap to the mouth of Cache creck, is one hundred and twenty
miles; from this point to the head of the north fork of Red river is two
hundred and thirty-seven miles; to the Canadian, twenty-five miles;
thence to Santa Fé, two hundred and ninety-five miles; making the
ageregate distance between the termini six hundred and seventy-seven
miles. These distances, as far as the Canadian, are measured upon the
route over which we travelled in our explorations; and although its
general course is reasonably direct, it is in some places circuitous, and
could probably be shortened so as to reduce the distance to about six
hundred and forty miles. The navigation of Red river with steamers
of light draught is practicable at all times to Shreveport; and about
four months of the year they have ascended without difficulty to Fort
Towson.

During the past season, at a time when the river was at a low stage,
asteamer drawing three and a half feet of water had no difficulty in
ascending as high as Preston, near the confluence of the Washita.
Several boats had previously reached this point upon the river; but as
there are but few settlements above here, there has as yet been no
inducements held out for boats to attempt the navigation of the river

90 CAUSE OF THE JUNE FLOODS. —

any higher. I am confident, however, from what I have seen of Upper
Red river, that at a medium stage there will be sufficient depth of
water for small steamers, such as ply upon some of the tributaries to the
Mississippi, to ascend the river as high as where the two principal
branches unite, (about fifty miles above the mouth of Cache creek.) As
an evidence of this, on our outward march, at a time when the river
was at a high stage, I had occasion for crossing frequently, but could
find no place below the point mentioned where the water in the channel
was of less depth than five feet; indeed, I do not think as many ob-
structions will be found above Preston as below, for the reason that
there is but little woodland bordering upon the upper portion of the
river, and consequently but few of those formidable obstacles called
snags.

At a low stage the water in the river becomes very shallow, and can
then be forded at any point. But during high water, the quicksands in
thebed of the stream become loose and unstable, and make it hazard-
ous to attempt a passage with animals. It was observed throughout
that portion of the valley of the river which came under our observation,
that it was bordered upon each side by three distinct terraces or benches,
running parallel with the course of the stream. The first of these is
from three to six feet high, from fifty to two hundred feet wide, and in
places subject to overflow. The second, which is from ten to twenty
feet above the first, is from two to five hundred feet wide, and is never
submerged. The third varies from fifty to three hundred feet in eleva-
tion above the second, and forms the elevated line of bluffs that
terminate the prairie lands adjacent to the valley.

In many places between the upper extremity of the Witchita mount-
ains and the sources of the river, we found continuous chains of
sand-hills, from twenty to fifty feet high, bordering the valley, and
denuded of all herbage save a few plum-bushes and grape-vines.
Although there is some good soil upon the small affluents to the main
river, the country generally, immediately bordering it, is barren and
sandy.

Several erroneous opinions have for many years been entertained in
regard to the country upon the headwaters of Red river. For instance,
it has generally been supposed, from the circumstance of a heavy rise
occurring in the river during the month of June, at a time when there
is generally no rain in the settlements, and during the dry season upon
the plains, that the sources of the river would be found in lofty mountain
ranges, where the melting of snows would account for the great amount
of water passing through the channel at the season mentioned. But

GYPSUM BEDS. OL

such is not the fact, as all the principal branches above Cache creek
have their origin in the eastern borders of the table-lands of New
Mexico, where there are no mountains. We, however, observed frequent
and copious rains in the vicinity of the Witchita mountains during the
season of the June flood; and I am of the opinion that here is the
source whence much of the water is derived.

As the water in the river has a very bitter and disagreeable taste, it
has been conjectured that it passed in its course through extensive salt
plains: but this I also found to be an error. We saw no deposite of
chloride of sodium in the vicinity of the river; the peculiar taste
being communicated by ingredients that it receives in flowing for a
hundred miles over a gypsum formation. An analysis of this water,
under the direction of Dr. Clark, of Amherst College, gives the following
results, from which it will be seen that the per-centage of salt is small :*

Weight of water in fluid ounces - sek aC i cs
« “ water in fluid grammes” - > - ° - 127.800
“© chlorine present - - - - - - 051
debe ES - - - - - - - - .033
“© sulphuric acid - - - si tee - - 095
Sulphates of soda and magnesia - . ay ie - .168

Regarding the lime as a sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as
united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with the sodium, we
have the following results :

Weight of sulphate of lime - - - - - - .080
“ sulphate of magnesia - : - - - .073
“© chloride of sodium = - - - inate - .084

Weight of the whole - - See = - - 237

Per-centage of matter in solution = - - - - - 19

This gypsum range forms an immense belt, which extends across the
country for some four or five hundred miles. Col. Long speaks of seeing
it upon the Arkansas; and I have myself passed through it at four other
different points south of this, embracing a range of some three hundred
miles. It is regarded by Dr. Hitchcock as the most extensive deposite
of this mineral in North America. I have everywhere found it char-

*T have understood since our return that the Indians have recently discovered
a deposite of salt (chloride of sodium) about three miles to the south of our return
route, near the western extremity of the Witchita mountains.

99 LLANO ESTACADO. ~

acterized by the same peculiarities, with the water issuing from it
invariably bitter and unpalatable.

The Arkansas, Canadian, Brazos, Colorado, and Pecos rivers, pass
through the formation, and a similar taste is imparted to the waters of
all. Several of these also have their sources in the same elevated table-
lands as Red river, and where they make their exit from this plateau
their beds are confined to vast sluices or cafions, the sides of which rise
very abruptly to an enormous height above the surface of the water.
The barren mesa, in which these streams take their rise, extends from
the Canadian river, in a southerly course, to near the confluence of the
Pecos with the Rio Grande, some four hundred miles, between the 32d
and 37th parallels of north latitude. It is in places nearly two hundred
miles in width, and is embraced within the 101st and 104th meridians
of west longitude. The approximate elevation of this plain above the
sea, as determined with the barometer, is two thousand four hundred
and fifty feet. It is much elevated above the surrounding country,
very smooth and level, and spreads out in every direction as far as the
eye can penetrate, without a tree, shrub, or any other herbage to inter-
cept the vision. The traveller in passing over it sees nothing but one
vast, dreary, and monotonous waste of barren solitude. It is an ocean
of desert prairie, where the voice of man is seldom heard, and where no
living being permanently resides. The almost total absence of water
causes all animals to shun it: even the Indians do not venture to cross
it except at two or three points, where they find a few small ponds of
water. I was told in New Mexico that, many years since, the Mexicans
marked out a route with stakes across this plain, where they found
water; and hence the name by which it is known throughout Mexico,
of “El Llano Estacado,” or the “Staked Plain.”

INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY. 93

CHAPTER X,

INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY—HABITS OF THE COMANCHES AND KIOWAYS——SIMiILARITY
BETWEEN THEM AND THE ARABS AND TARTARS——-PREDATORY EXCURSIONS INTO
MEXICO—WAR IMPLEMENTS—INCREDULITY REGARDING THE CUSTOMS OF THE
WHITES—METHOD OF SALUTING STRANGERS—DEGRADED CONDITION OF THE
WOMEN—AVERSION TO ARDENT SPIRITS—PRAIRIE INDIANS CONTRASTED WITH
INDIANS OF THE EASTERN STATES——-BUFFALOES——-PROBABLE CONDITION OF THE
INDIANS UPON THE EXTERMINATION OF THE BUFFALOES—-—~PERNICIOUS INFLUENCES
OF TRADERS--SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES.

The country over which we passed is frequented by several tribes of
Indians, who follow the buffalo, and subsist almost exclusively upon
the uncertain products of the chase. The Witchitas, Wacos, Kechies,
and Quapaws, all resort to the country about the Witchita mountains,
where a few years since they had their thatched villages and corn-fields,
but they have recently removed near the white settlements. The
Witchitas and Wacos, as before stated, are now living upon Rush creek,
while the Kechies and Quapaws are upon Chouteau’s creek, an affluent
of the Canadian. The Witchitas and Kechies each number about one
hundred warriors; the Wacos about eighty ; and the Quapaws only about
twenty-tive. They all use the horse in their hunting and war expedi-
tions, and are possessed of a good supply of these animals. The history
of the Quapaws, a minute remnant of what was once a large and
powerful nation of Indians, called the “Arkansas,” but now only num-
bering a very few lodges of miserable half-starved beggars, is truly
melancholy. Father Charlevoix, in his “Historical Journal of a Voyage
down the Mississippi,” speaks of visiting them, and found them at that
time very numerous and warlike. He says of them: “The Arkansas, or
Quapaws, are reckoned to be the tallest and best-shaped of all the
savages of this continent, and they are called, by way of distinction,
‘the fine men.’” He describes them as occupying at the time of his
visit four villages, one of which was upon the Mississippi, a short dis-
tance above the mouth of the Arkansas. They were, according to him,
composed of the confederated remnants of several ruined nations.

In the time of Du Pratz these Indians had all moved up the Arkan-
sas, and were living about twelve miles from the mouth of White river ;
they were then quite numerous, and he compliments them by saying

94 SALUBRITY OF THE PLAINS.

that they were no less distinguished as warriors than hunters, and that
they were the first nation that succeeded in conquering the warlike and
numerous Chickasaws. It is related that upon one occasion they en-
countered the Chickasaws, who, in consequence of having no powder,
considered it most prudent to make a precipitate retreat; whereupon
the Quapaw chief, understanding the cause, determined they should be
placed on an equality, and ordered all his warriors to empty their powder-
horns into a blanket, and making an equal division of the powder, he
gave one-half to his enemies. The battle then commenced, and in a short
time terminated with a signal defeat of the Chickasaws, who retreated
with a loss of ten killed and five prisoners, while the Quapaws only lost
one man. They were also distinguished for their friendship to the early
settlers along the Arkansas river, and it is much to be deplored that
this once numerous and valorous nation is so fast approaching annihila-
tion, The two most numerous and powerful tribes of Indians frequenting
the country upon Upper Red river are the Comanches and Kioways;
the former range from the Witchita mountains to the sources of the
river, while the latter occasionally visit the headwaters, but seldom come
as far down as the mountains. These tribes have similar habits, but
speak different languages. The most numerous and warlike nation is
that of the Comanches, who are separated into three distinet local
grand divisions, namely: the Northern, Middle, and Southern; each
of these is subdivided into several bands, commanded by separate chiefs.

The Northern and Middle Comanches subsist almost entirely upon
the flesh of the buffalo; they are known among the other Indians as
“buffalo-eaters,” and are generally found at their heels, migrating with
them from place to place upon those vast and inhospitable plains of the
West, the greater portion of which are incapable of cultivation, and
seem destined in the future, as in the past, to be the abode of the
wandering savage, possessing, as they do, so few attractions to civilized
man. ‘This vast district, however, exhibits one characteristic which
compensates for many of its asperities: perhaps no part of the habitable
globe is more favorable to human existence, so far as the atmosphere is
concerned, than this. Free from marshes, stagnant water, great bodies
of timber, and all other sources of poisonous malaria, and open to every
wind that blows, this immense grassy expanse is purged from impurities
of every kind, and the air imparts a force and vigor to the body and
mind which repays the occupant in a great measure for his deprivations.
Nature, which almost everywhere exhibits some compensation to man
for great hardships, has here conferred upon him health, the first and
best of her gifts, It is a fact worthy of remark, that man, in whatever

SKILL IN HORSEMANSHIP. 95

situation he may be placed, is influenced in his modes of existence, his
physical and moral condition, by the natural resources of climate, soil,
and other circumstances around him, over the operations of which he
has no control. Fortunately, such is the flexibility of his nature that
he soon learns to adapt himself to the hardest and most untoward
circumstances, and, indeed, ultimately becomes not only reconciled to
his lot, but persuades himself that his condition is far preferable to that
of most others. |

The example.of our western-border settlers is illustrative of this fact,
as they continue to remove farther and farther west as the settlements
encroach upon them, preferring a life of dangerous adventure and
solitude to personal security and the comforts and enjoyments of society ;
and what was at first necessity to them, becomes in time a source of
excitement and pleasure. ’

The nomadic Indian of the prairies demonstrates the position still
more*forcibly : free as the boundless plains over which he roams, he
neither knows nor wants any luxuries beyond what he finds in the
buffalo or the deer around him. These serve him with food, clothing,
and a covering for his lodge, and he sighs not for the titles and distine-
tion which occupy the thoughts and engage the energies of civilized
man. His only ambition consists in being able to cope successfully
with his enemy in war, and in managing his steed with unfailing adroit-
ness. He is in the saddle from boyhood to old age, and his favorite
horse is his constant companion. It is when mounted that the Coman-
che exhibits himself to the best advantage: here he is at home, and his
skill in various manoeuvres which he makes available in battle—such as
throwing himself entirely upon one side of his horse, and discharging
his arrows with great rapidity towards the opposite side from beneath
the animal’s neck while he is at full speed—is truly astonishing. Many
of the women are equally expert, as equestrians, with the men. They
vide upon the same saddles and in the same manner, with a leg upon
each side of the horse. As an example of their skill in horsemanship,
two young women of one of the bands of the Northern Comanches,
while we were encamped near them, upon seeing some antelopes at a
distance from their camp, mounted horses, and with lassos in their hands
set off at full speed in pursuit of this fleetest inhabitant of the plains.
After pursuing them for some distance, and taking all the advantages
which their circuitous course permitted, they finally came near them,
and, throwing the lasso with unerring precision, secured each an animal
and brought it back in triumph to the camp. Every warrior has his

96 ATTACHMENT TO THEIR HORSES.

war-horse, which is the fleetest that can be obtained, and he prizes him
more highly than anything else in his possession, and it is seldom that
he can be induced to part with him at any price. He never mounts
him except when going into battle, the buffalo chase, or upon state
occasions, On his return from an excursion he is met at the door of his
lodge by one of his wives, who takes his horse and attends to its wants
with the utmost care. The prairie warrior performs no menial labor;
his only occupation is in war and the chase. His wives, who are but
little dearer to him than his horse, perform all the drudgery. He fol-
lows the chase, he smokes his pipe, he eats and sleeps; and thus he
passes his time, and in his own estimation he is the most lordly and
independent sovereign in the universe. Such are some of the charac-_
teristics of the prairie Indians; and I cannot dismiss the subject without
remarking that, in addition to the physical similitude between the deserts
of Arabia, the steppes of Central Asia, and the prairie mesas of our own
country, a very striking resemblance is also observed in the habits and
customs of the respective inhabitants. The Arabs of the desert, the
Tartar tribes, and the aboriginal occupants of the prairies, are alike
wanderers, having no permanent abiding-places, transporting their lodges
wherever they go; and where these are pitched, there are their homes,
They permit no authorities to control them but such as receive the
unanimous sanction of the masses, and the rule of their leaders is
guided by the counsels of their old men, who in many eases allay dissen-
sions and curb the impetuosity of ambitious young warriors, whose
thirst for fame would often involve the nation in protracted wars.
Thus their government is patriarchal, guided by matured and fraternal
counsels. ‘They are insensible to the wants and comforts of civilization ;
they know neither poverty nor riches, vice nor virtue, and are alike
exempt from the deplorable vicissitudes of fortune. Theirs is a happy
state of equality, which knows not the perplexities of ambition
nor the crimes of avarice. They never cultivate the soil, but subsist
altogether upon game and what they can steal. They are alike the
most expert horsemen in the world, and possess the same fond attach-
ment for the animal. I once made an effort to purchase a favorite
horse from a chief of one of the bands of the Southern Comanches,
(Se-na-co,) and offered him a large price, but he could not be persuaded
to part with him. He said the animal was one of the fleetest in their
possession ; and if he were to sell him, it would prove a calamity to his
whole band, as it often required all the speed of this animal to imsure
success in the buffalo chase; that his loss would be felt by all his

FORAYS OF THE INDIANS. 97

people, and he would be regarded as very foolish: moreover, he said,
(patting his favorite on the neck,) “I love him very much.”

The only property of these people, with the exception of a few articles
belonging to their domestic economy, consists entirely in horses and
mules, of which they possess great numbers. These are mostly pillaged
from the Mexicans, as is evident from the brand which is found upon
them. The most successful horse-thieves among them own from fifty
to two hundred animals.

In their political and domestic relations there is also a similarity to
the Old World nomads. They are governed by a chief, the tenure of
whose office is hereditary so long as his administration meets the ap-
probation of his followers. He leads them to war, and presides at their
deliberations in council; but should he disgrace himself by any act of
cowardice or mal-administration, they do not hesitate to depose him _
and place a more competent man in his stead. Their laws are such as
are adapted to their peculiar situation, and are sanctioned by the voice
of the people. Their execution is vested in the subordinate chiefs or
captains, as they are called, and they are promptly and rigidly enforced.
Tn respect to the rights of property, their code is strictly Spartan. They
are perhaps as arrant freebooters as can be found upon the face of the
earth; and they regard stealing from strangers as perfectly legitimate
and honorable, and that man who has been most successful in this is
the most highly honored by his tribe; indeed, a young man who has
not made one or more of these expeditions into Mexico is held in but
little repute. In evidence of this, I was told by an old chief of the
Northern Comanches, called Is-sa-keep, that he was the father of four
sons, who he said were as fine young men as could be found; that they _
were a great source of comfort to him in his old age, and could steal
more horses than any other young men in his band.

As these forays are often attended with mugh toil and danger, they —

are called “war expeditions.” It not unfrequently happens that but six
or eight young men set out upon one of these adventures, and the only
outfit they require is a horse, with their war equipments, consisting of
the bow and arrows, lance and shield, with occasionally a gun. Thus
prepared, they set out upon a journey of a thousand miles or more,
through a perfectly wild and desolate country, dependent for subsistence
wholly upon such game as they may chance to find. They make their
way to the northern provinces of Mexico, where they lie in wait near
some hacienda until a favorable opportunity offers to sweep down upon
a solitary herdsman, and, with the most terrific yells, drive before them

all the animals they desire. Wo to the panic-stricken ranchero who |
a

98 COMANCHE DRESS.

fails to make a precipitate retreat, as they invariably kill such men
as offer the slightest impediment to their operations, and take women
and children prisoners, whom they hold in bondage of the most servile
character. They are sometimes absent from their tribes two years or
more before their success is sufficient to justify their returning with
credit to themselves.

The use of the bow, which is the favorite arm and constant appendage
of the prairie Indian, and which he makes use of exclusively in hunting
the buffalo, is taught the boys at a very early age; and by constant and
careful practice, they acquire a degree of proficiency in the art that
renders them, when grown up to manhood, formidable in war, as well as
successful in the chase. Their bows are made of the tough and elastic
wood of the “bois d’arc,” or Osage orange (Maclura awrantiaca,) strength-
ened and reinforced with the sinews of the deer wrapped firmly around
them, and strung with a cord made of the same material. They are
not more than one-half the length of the old English long-bow, which
was said to have been sixteen hands’ breadth in length. The arrows are
twenty inches long, of flexible wood, with a triangular point of iron at
one end, and two feathers, intersecting each other at fight-angles, at the
opposite extremity. At short distances the bow, in the hands of the
Indian, is effective, and frequently throws the arrow entirely through the
huge carcass of the buffalo. In using this instrument, the Indian
warrior protects himself from the missiles of his enemy with a shield of
circular form, covered with two thicknesses of hard, undressed buffalo-
hide, separated by a space of about an inch, which is stuffed with hair:
this is fastened to the left arm by two bands, in such a manner as not
to interfere with the free use of the hand, and offers such resistance that
a rifle-ball will not penetrate it unless it strikes perpendicular to the
surface. They also make use of a war-club, made by bending a withe

around a hard stone gf about two pounds weight, which has been

previously prepared with a groove in which the withe fits, and is thereby
prevented from slipping off. The handle is about font inches long,
and bound with buffalo-hide.

The Comanche men are about the medium stature, with bright, copper-
colored complexions and intelligent countenances, in many instances
with aquiline noses, thin lips, black eyes and hair, with but little beard.
‘They never cut the hair, but wear it of very great length, and ornament
it upon state occasions with silver and beads. Their dress consists of
leggins and moccasins, with a cloth wrapped around the loins. The
body is generally naked above the middle, except when covered with
the buffalo-robe, which is a constant appendage to their wardrobe. The

IDEA OF THEIR OWN SUPERIORITY. 99

women are short, with crooked legs, and are obliged to crop their hair
close to their heads. They wear, in addition to the leggins and mocca-
sins, a skirt of dressed deer-skin. They also tattoo their faces and
breasts, and are far from being as good looking as the men. |

Notwithstanding that these people are hospitable and kind to stran-
gers, and apparently amiable in their dispositions, yet, when a warrior
conceives himself injured, his thirst for revenge knows no satiety.
Grave and dignified in his deportment, and priding himself upon his
coolness of temper and the control of his passions, yet, when once
provoked, he, like the majority of his race, is implacable and unrelent-
ing; an affront is laid up and cherished in his breast, and nothing can
efface it from his mind until ample reparation has been made. He has
no idea of forgiveness: the insult must be atoned for by blood. With
many tribes, quarrels can often be settled by presents to the injured
party ; but with the Comanches, their law of equity is of such a character
that no reconciliation can take place until the reproach is wiped out
with the blood of their enemy. They make no use of money except
for ornaments. Like other tribes, they are fond of decking themselves
with paint, beads, and feathers; and the young warrior often spends
more time at his toilet than the most conceited coxcomb that can be
found in civilized life. Bright red and blue are their favorite colors ;
and vermilion is an important article in the stock of. goods of one of
their traders. This they always carry about their persons; and when-
ever they expect to meet strangers, they always (provided they have
time) make their toilet with care, and paint their faces. Some few of
their chiefs who have visited their Great Father at Washington, have
returned strongly impressed with the numerical power and prosperity
of the whites; but the great majority of them being entirely ignorant of
everything that relates to us, and the most of them having never even
seen a white man, believe the Comanches to be the most powerful nation
in existence; and the relation of facts which conflict with this notion,
by their own people, to the masses of the tribes at their prairie firesides,
only subjects the narrator to ridicule, and he is set down as one whose
brain has been turned by the necromancy of the pale-faces, and is
thenceforth regarded as wholly unworthy of confidence.

Having upon one occasion a Delaware and a Comanche with me in
the capacity of guides, I was much diverted with a conversation which
passed between them in my presence, and which was interpreted to me
by the Delaware. It appeared that the latter had stated to the other
the fact of the sphericity of the earth’s surface. This idea being altogether
new and incomprehensible to the Comanche, was received with much

100 RECEPTION OF STRANGERS.

incredulity, and, after gazing a moment intently at the Delaware to
ascertain if he was sincere, he asked if that person took him for a child,
or if he looked like an idiot. The Delaware said no; but that the white
people, who knew all about these things, had ascertained such to be the
fact; and added, that the world was not only round, but that it revolved
in sie orbit around the sun, The Comanche very indignantly replied,
that any man of sense could, by looking off upon the prairie, see at a
glance that the earth was perfectly level; and, moreover, that his
grandfather had been west to the end of it, where the sun disappeared
behind a vertical wall. The Delaware continued, in his simple but
impressive manner, to describe to the Gti te the steam-engine,
with other objects of interest he had seen among the whites, all of
which the Comanche regarded as the product of a fertile imagination,
expressly designed to deceive him; and the only reply that he deigned
to make was an occasional onelanineehk in his own language, the inter-
pretation of which the Delaware pronounced to be, “Hush, you fool!” I
then endeavored to explain to the Delaware the operation of the magnetic
telegraph, and, in illustration of its practical utility, stated to him that
a message could be sent a distance of one thousand miles, and an
answer returned, in the short space of ten minutes time. He seemed
much interested in this, and listened attentively to my remarks, but
made no comments until I requested him to explain it to the Comanche,
when he said, “I don’t think I tell him that, Captain; for the truth is, I
don’t believe it myself.”

The mode of life of the prairie ibe owing to their unsettled and
wandering habits, is such as to render their condition one of constant
danger and apprehension. The security of their numerous animals
from the encroachments of their enemies, and their constant liability to
attacks, make it imperatively necessary for them to be at all. times
upon the alert. Their details for herdsmen are made with as much
regularity as the guard-details at a military post; and even in times of
the most profound peace, they guard their animals both night and day,
while scouts are often patrolling upon the adjoining heights to give
notice of the approach of strangers, when their animals are hurried to
a place of security, and everything made ready for defence. The
manner in which they salute a stranger is somewhat peculiar, as my
own reception at one of their encampments will show. The chief at
this encampment was a very corpulent old man, with exceedingly scanty
attire, who, immediately on our approach, declared himself a great friend
of the Americans, and persisted in giving me evidence of his sincerity
by an embrace, which, to please him, I forced myself to submit to,

HOSTILITY TO NEGROES. 101

although it was far from agreeable to my own feelings. Seizing me in
his brawny arms while we were yet in the saddle, and laying his greasy
head upon my shoulder, he inflicted upon me a most bruin-like squeeze,
which I endured with a degree of patient fortitude worthy of the
occasion; and I was consoling myself upon the completion of the
salutation, when the savage again seized me in his arms, and I was
doomed to another similar torture, with his head on my other shoulder,
while at the same time he rubbed his greasy face against mine in the
most affectionate manner; all of which proceeding he gave me to
understand was to be regar dad as a most distinguished and signal mark
of affection for the American people in general, whom, as he expressed
it, he loved so much that it almost broke his heart ; and in particular for
myself, who, as their representative, can bear testimony to the strength
of his attachment. On leaving his camp, the chief shook me heartily
by the hand, telling me at the same time that he was not a Comanche,
but an American; and asI did not feel disposed to be outdone in polite-
ness by an Indian, | replied, in the same spirit, that there was not a drop
of Anglo-Saxon blood in my veins, but that I was wholly and absolutely _
a Comanche, at which he seemed delighted, duly understanding and _

appreciating the compliment. These people are hospitable and kind to &
all with whom they are not at war; and on the arrival of a stranger at

their camps, a lodge is prepared for him, and he is entertained as long

as he chooses to remain among them. They are also kind and aifec-
tionate to each other, and as long as anything comestible remains in the
camp, all are permitted to share alike; but with these exceptions, they
are possessed of but few virtues. Bolyainyh is sanctioned and is very
common among them, every man being allowed as many wives as he
can support. ,

Within the past few years the ‘Comanches have (for what reason I
could not learnt taken an inveterate dislike to the negroes, and have
massacred several small parties of those who attempted to escape from
the Seminoles and cross the plains for the purpose of joining Wild Cat
upon the Rio, Grande. Upon inquiring of them the cause of their
hostility to the blacks, they replied that it was because they were slaves
to the whites; that they were sorry for them. I suspect, however, that
they were actuated by other motives than they cared about acknowledg-
ing, and that instead of wishing to better their condition by sending
them to another world, where they would be released from the fetters of
bondage, they were apprehensive, if they permitted them to pass quietly,
that in time Wild Cat’s followers upon the Rio Grande would augment
to such a degree that he would interfere with their marauding opera-

102 DIET OF THE COMANCHES.

tions along the Mexican borders. During the past year they have also
been hostile towards the Delawares and Shawnees, and have killed
several individuals who have been into their country in small parties.
The Creek Indians, who exercise a good influence over the prairie tribes,
have counselled them to commit no further acts of hostility upon these
Indians, and I presume they will take measures to enforce a strict adhe-
rence to their wishes in this respect. These people, who are so extremely
jealous of their own freedom that they will often commit suicide rather
than be taken prisoners, are the more prone to ‘enslave others, and this
dominant principle is carried to the greatest extreme so far as regards
their women. A beast of burden and a slave to the will of her brutal
master, yet, strange as it may appear, the Comanche woman seems con-
tented with her lot, and submits to her fate without a murmur. The
hardships imposed upon the females are most severe and cruel. The
distance of rank and consideration which exists between the black slave
and his master is not greater than between the Comanche warrior and
his wife. Every degrading office that is imposed upon the black by the
most tyrannical master, falls, among the Comanches, to the lot of the
wretched female. They, in common with other Indians, are not a pro-
lific race ; indeed, it is seldom that a woman has more than three or
~ four hattaren. Many of these, owing to unavoidable exposure, die young;
the boys, however, are nurtured with care and treated with great kind-
ness by their mothers, while the girls are frequently beaten and abused
unmercifully. I have never seen an idiot, or one that was paiprally
deformed, among them.

~ Of all the Indians I had before encountered, there were none who had
not an extreme fondness for spirituous liquors. The prairie tribes that
I have seen, say the taste of such liquor is not pleasant; that it makes
fools of them, and that they do not desire it. If there are exceptions
to this, I think they may be set down as factitious rather than natural ;
the appetite having been created by occasional indulgence m the use of
a little at a time.

The diet of these people is very simple; from infancy to old age their
only food, with the exception of a few wild plants which they find on
the prairies, is fresh meat, of which, in times of plenty, they consume
enormous quantities. In common with many other tribes, they can,
when necessity demands it, abstain from eating for several days without
inconvenience, and they are enabled to make up at one meal the defi-
ciency. All of them are extravagantly fond of tobacco, which they use
for smoking, mixed with the dried leaves of the sumach, inhaling the
smoke into their lungs and giving it out through their nostrils. Their

TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 103

language is verbal and pantomimic. The former consists of a very
limited number of words—some of which are common to all the prairie
tribes. The latter, which is exceedingly graceful and expressive, is the
court language of the plains, and is used and understood with great
facility and accuracy by all the tribes from the Gila to the Columbia ;
the motions and signs to express ideas being common to all. In con-
templating the character of the prairie Indian, and the striking simi-
larity between him and the Arab and Tartar, we are not less astonished.
at the absolute dissimilarity between these and the aboriginal inhabitants
of the Eastern States. The latter, from the time of the discovery of
the country, lived in permanent villages, where they cultivated fields of
corn, and possessed strong attachment for their ancestral abodes and sepul-
chres: they did not use horses, but always made their hunting and war
expeditions on foot, and sought the cover of trees on going into battle ;
while the former have no permanent abiding-places, never cultivate the
soil, are always mounted, and never fight a battle except in the open
prairie, where they eharge boldly up to an enemy, discharge their
arrows with great rapidity, and are away before their panic-stricken
antagonist can prepare to resist or retaliate. In their treatment of
prisoners of war there was also a very marked difference. The eastern —
tribes, although they put their prisoners to tortures of the most appalling
character, seldom, if ever, violate the chastity of the females; while,
on the contrary, the prairie Indians do not put their prisoners to death
by prolonged tortures, but invariably compel the females to submit to
their lewd embraces. There is at this time a white woman among the
Middle Comanches, by the name of Parker, who, with her brother, was
captured while they were young children, from their father’s house in ©
the western part of Texas. This woman has adopted all the habits and
peculiarities of the Comanches; has an Indian husband and children,
and cannot be persuaded to leave them. The brother of the woman,
who had been ransomed by a trader and brought home to his relatives,
was sent back by his mother for the purpose of endeavoring to prevail
upon his sister to leave the Indians and return to her family; but he
stated to me that on his arrival she refused to listen to the proposition,
saying that her husband, children, and all that she held most dear, were
with the Indians, and there she should remain. As the prairie Indians
depend almost entirely on the buffalo for a subsistence and for clothing,
it becomes a question of much interest, what will be the fate of these
people when these animals shall have become extinct? Formerly, buffa-
loes were found in countless herds over almost the entire northern conti-
nent of America, from the 28th to the 50th degree of north latitude,

104 RANGE OF THE BUFFALO.

and from the shores of Lake Champlain to the Rocky mountains. As
it is important to collect and preserve all facts connected with. the
history of this interesting and useful animal before the species becomes
extinct, I trust I shall be pardoned for introducing a few quotations
from authors, touching their early history, which to me appear highly
interesting. Ina es published at Amsterdam in 1637, called “New
English Canaan,” by Thomas Morton, one of the first settlers of New
England, he says: “The Indians have also made description of great
heards of well-growne beasts that live about the parts of this lake
(Erocoise,) now Lake Champlain, such as the Christian world (until this
discovery) hath not din made acquainted with. These beasts are of the
‘bigness of a cowe, their flesh being very good foode, their hides good
leather ; their fleeces very useful, being a kind of woole, as fine almost as
the woole of the beaver; and the devine ae do make garments thereof,
It is tenne yeares cecal first the relation of these things came to the
eares of the English.” he ,

It is stated by another author, (Purchas,) that as ; early as, in 1613
the adventurers in Vir ginia discovered a “slow kinde of catiell as bigge
as kine, which were good meate.”

&: The limit of the buffalorange on the north re been given rea
by different writers. In a i published in London in 1589, by
- Hukluyt, it is stated, that in the island of New Foundland were found
“mightie beastes, like to camels in greatness and their Fete were cloven.”
He then says: “I did see them farre off, not able to discerne them

perfectly, but their steps showed that their feete were Gloven, and bigger
than the feete of camels. I suppose them to be a kind of buffes,
. © which I read to bee in the countreys adjacent, and very mang in the
firme land.” :
It is supposed by some that these animals may have been the musk-
ox. They were found by Captain Franklin as high as 60° north latitude.
Although it is doubtful whether the buffalo ever ranged beyond the
‘Rocky mountains, yet they have been found as far west as the western
slope. They formerly ranged free and uninterrupted over the boundless
plains of the West, only guided in their course by that faithful instinct
which invariably led them to the freshest and sweetest pastures. Their
only enemy then was the Indian, who supplied himself with food and
clothing from the immense herds around his door; but would have
looked upon it as sacrilege to destroy more than non sufficient to
supply the wants of his family. Thus this monarch of the plains was
allowed free range from one end of the continent to the other. But
this happy state of things was not destined to continue: an enemy

TRAFFIC AMONG THE INDIANS. 105

appeared, wht made great havoc among them, and in a short time
caused a very sensible diminution in their numbers, and much con-
tracted the limits of their wanderings. This enemy was the white
man, who, in his steady march, causes the original proprietor of the
soil to recede before him, and to diminish in numbers almost as rapidly
as the buffalo. Thousands of these animals were annually slaughtered
for their skins, and often for their tongues alone; animals whose flesh
is sufficient to afford sustenance to a large riinbite of men are sacrificed
to furnish a “bon bouche” for the rich epicure. This wholesale slaughter
on the part of the white man, with the number consumed by the
Indians, who are constantly on their trail, migrating with them as regu-
larly as the season comes round, with the ravenous wolves that are
always at hand to destroy one of them if wounded, gives the poor beast
but little rest or prospect of permanent existence. It is only eight years
since the western borders of Texas abounded with’ buffaloes; but now.
they seldom go south of Red river, and their range upon east and west
has also very much contracted within the same time; so that they are at
present confined. to a narrow belt of country ietiaede the outer settle-
ments and the base of the Rocky mountains. With this rapid diminu-
tion in their numbers, they must in the course of a very few years
become exterminated. What will then become of the prairie Indian, |
who, as I have already remarked, relies for subsistence, shelter, and
clothing, on the flesh and hide of this animal? He must either perish
with them, increase, his marauding depredations on the Mexicans, or
learn t0 cultivate the soil. As the first law of our nature is self-pres-
eryation, it is not probable that he will sit down and quietly submit to —
starvation; he must, therefore, resort to one of the latter alternatives.

But as he has no knowledge of agriculture, considers it the business of
a slave, and very much beneath the dignity of a warrior, it appears
reasonable to suppose that he will turn his attention to the Mexicans,
over whom he has held the mastery for many years. Heretofore he has
plundered these people to supply himself with animals for his own use
and for traftic.

A number of Delawares, Shawnees, and Kickapoos, from Missouri
and the borders of Arkansas, have for several years past been engaged
in a traffic with the prairie Indians, which has had a tendency to
defeat the efforts of the military authorities in checking their depreda-
tions upon the citizens of the northern provinces of Mexico. These
traders, after procuring from the whites an outfit of such articles as are |
suited to the wants of the prairie Indians, visit all the different bands,
and prosecute a very lucrative business. The goods they carry out

106 GIVING OF PRESENTS.

consist of a few articles of small value, such as tobacco,*paint, knives,
calico, wampum, beads, é&e., &c., which are of the utmost importance
to the Indians, and which, if necessary, they will make great sacrifices
to procure; but as they have no commodity for exchange that the
traders desire except horses and mules, they must necessarily give these
for the goods, and large numbers are annually disposed of in this manner.
As [have before mentioned, nearly all these animals are pilfered from
the Mexicans; and as the number they traffic away must be replaced by
new levies upon their victims, of course all that the traders | obtain
causes a corresponding increase in the amount of depredations. Should
the government of the United States feel disposed to make the prairie
Indians annual donations of the same description of articles that the
traders now supply them with, (which I am most happy to learn is now
contemplated,) upon the express condition that they would. continue
only so long as they adhered strictly to all the requirements of the
agents, it would in a measure obviate the necessity of their making

long expeditions into Mexico, and would most undoubtedly have the
effect of depreciating the value of the merchandise to such a degree
that the traders would no longer find the traffic profitable. The Indians
of the plains are accustomed, in their diplomatic intercourse with each
other, to exchange presents, and they have no idea of friendship unac-
companied by a substantial token in this form : moreover, they measure
the strength of the attachment of their friends by the magnitude of the
presents they receive; and I am firmly convinced that a small amount
of money annually expended in this way, with a proper and judicious
distribution of the presents, would have a very salutary influence in
checking the depredations upon the Mexicans. In a talk which I held
with a chief of one of the bands of prairie Indians, I stated to him that
the President of the United States was their friend, and wished to live
in peace with them. He replied that he was much astonished to hear
this; for, judging from the few trifling presents I had made his people,
he was of opinion that the “Big Captain” held them in but little
estimation. Trained up, as the prairie Indians have been from infancy,
to regard the occupation of a warrior as the most honorable of all others,
and having no permanent abiding-places or local attachments, they can
without inconvenience move all their families and worldly effects from
one extremity of the buffalo range to the other. With their numerous
and hardy horses they travel with great rapidity; and possessing as
intimate a knowledge as they do of the localities, it would give them a
great advantage over any body of troops who should pursue them into
the country. War would not, therefore, be as great a calamity to them

RELIGIOUS BELIEF. 107

as to other tribes who have permanent habitations. Some have sup-
posed that a large body of these Indians could not obtain a sufficient
amount of subsistence to enable them to remain together for any great
length of time; but their numerous horses and mules, which they often
make use of for food when game is scarce, would supply them with
subsistence for a long time. It will be necessary to devise some meas-
ures to do away with the inveterate prejudices which the Comanches
entertain against the habits and customs of the whites, before they will
be induced to remain in any fixed abodes or cultivate the soil.

In common with most other Indians, they are very superstitious:
they believe in dreams, the wearing of amulets, medicine-bags, &c., and
the dedication of offerings to secure the favor of invisible agents; as also
in the efficacy of music and dancing for the cure of diseases. They submit
with the most imperturbable stoicism and apathy to misfortunes of the
most serious character, and, in the presence of strangers, manifest no
surprise or curiosity at the exhibition of novelties: yet this apparent
indifference is assumed, and they are in reality very inquisitive people.
In every village may be seen small structures, consisting of a frame-
work of slight poles, bent into a semi-spherical form, and covered with
buffalo-hides. These are called medicine-lodges, and are used as vapor-
baths. The patient is seated within the lodge, beside several heated
stones, upon which water is thrown, producing a dense hot vapor, which
brings on a profuse perspiration, while, at the same time, the shamans,
or medicine-men, who profess to have the power of communicating
with the unseen world, and of propitiating the malevolence of evil
spirits, are performing various incantations, accompanied by music on
the outside. Such means are resorted to for healing all diseases; and I
am also informed that their young men are obliged to undergo a
regular course of steam-bathing before they are considered worthy of
assuming the responsible duties of warriors. The knowledge they
possess of their early history is very vague and limited, and does not
extend further back than a few generations. They say that their fore-
fathers lived precisely as they do, and followed the buffalo: that they
came from a country towards the setting sun, where they expect to
return after death. They acknowledge the existence and power of a
great supernatural agent, who directs and controls all things; but this
power they conceive to be vested in the sun, which they worship and
appeal to on all occasions of moment. They also anticipate a future
state of existence similar to the present, and invariably bury with the
warrior his hunting and war equipments. Thus far no efforts have
ever been made to improve the moral or physical condition of these

ma age re
Aen? ae ott Ge

108 CHRISTIANIZATION OF THE INDIANS.

people; no missionaries have, to my knowledge, ever visited them, and
they have no more idea of Christianity than they have of the religion of
Mahomet. We find dwelling almost at our doors as barbarous and
heathenish a race as exists on the face of the earth; and while our
benevolent and philanthropic citizens are making such efforts to ame-
liorate the condition of savages in other countries, should we not do
something for the benefit of these wild men of the prairies? Those
dingy noblemen of nature, the original proprietors of all that vast do-
main included between the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific, have been
_ despoiled, supplanted, and robbed of their just and legitimate heritage,
by the avaricious and rapid encroachments of the white man. Numer-
ous and powerful nations have already become exterminated, by unjusti-
fiable wars that he has waged with them, and by the effects of the
vices he has introduced and inculeated; and of theséi that remain, but
few can be found who are not contaminated by the pernicious influences
of unprincipled and designing adventurers. It is not at this late day in
our power to atone for all the injustice inflicted upon the red men; but
it seems to me that a wise policy would dictate almost the only recom-
pense it is now in our power to make—that of introducing among them
the light of Christianity and the blessings of civilization, with their
attendant benefits of agriculture and the arts. f ;

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_ PACIFIC RAILWAY. 109

CHAPTER XI,

PACIFIC RAILWAY—IMPRACTICABILITY OF CROSSING THE * LLANO ESTACADO’’—
ROUTE FROM FORT SMITH TO SANTA FE—RETURN ROUTE FROM DONA. ANA—ITS
CONNECTIONS WITH THE MISSISSIPPI AND THE PACIFIC.

The very lively interest that has been ia lahatestell in a project of such
Importance as that of uniting the Atlantic with the Pacific by a single
span ‘of railroad over the continent of North America, and the reall:
ing dearth of reliable information regarding a great portion of that vast
territory lying west of the Mississippi, induce me to add a few remarks
upon this subject, which I trust will not be wholly devoid of interest
or utility at this particular period.

Whether this road should be national, and its administration under
the direction of the general government, or whether it should be
intrusted to individual States or corporate companies, are questions the

_discussion of which it does not become me to attempt, and upon which

‘Ishall not presume to hazard an opinion. I propose, in what I have
to say, merely to give a brief detail of such facts connected with this
subject as are suggested after an examination of a district of country
over which it may be found desirable to construct the road.

Although the appropriation made by the last Congress for prelimi-
nary surveys, indicates a disposition on the part of our national legisla- .
ture to give aid in the initiatory steps, and although great benefits
would undoubtedly result from bringing our distant possessions in the)
west into closer proximity with the eastern States, by a means of transit
much more cepa cite than any which nature offers, thereby facil-
itating the transmission of troops and munitions of war, the value of
the project, in a commercial aspect, appears to be of sufficient magni-
tude to denote a reasonable guarantee for its speedy execution.

The importance, and indeed the necessity, of this road, are very gen-
erally admitted. It is the will of a people controlling a great share of
the commerce of the world that it should be made; and possessing, as
they do, ample pecuniary resources, and stimulated by the ambitious
but laudable prospect of turning and monopolizing the channel of
Asiatic trade, with the almost certain anticipation of profit, it is easy to
predict the result. The financial demonstration recently made in New
York city, whereby an amount of stock almost sufficient to carry out

EO LLANO ESTACADO.

the enterprise was subscribed in one day, is eminently significant. of the
fact, and affords substantial evidence of the confidence of capitalists in
the feasibility of the scheme, and an abundant pledge for its early and
successful accomplishment. That the road will be constructed, but few
at this time entertain a doubt; the only question that remains to be
determined is, where is the best and most advantageous route?

The several exploring parties that have been sent across the conti-
nent in different latitudes, will undoubtedly place the department in
possession of all the information required concerning the country over
which the limited amount of the appropriation, and timé, enabled them
to pass; but as a large portion of the district over which J have tray=
elled will not come within the scope of their reconnoissances, my re-
marks may serve to throw some light upon the subject, which cannot be
obtained from other sources, and thus add to the general stock of
information so earnestly sought after at this particular period.

The district of country to which my attention has been directed is
embraced within the 32d and 36th parallels of latitude, and the 95th
and 107th meridians of longitude; and is bounded upon the north by
the Canadian river, and upon the west by the Rio Grande. A great
portion of this vast domain, containing nearly thirty-two thousand square
miles, was previous to 1849 almost wholly unknown, except to the
native occupants. “

One of the most prominent features which strikes the eye of the
beholder on an examination of this section, is the very remarkable uni-
formity of its surface, and the almost total absence of those abrupt and
rugged primitive mountain ranges which in many other parts of our
country offer such formidable obstacles to the passage of railways. But
few mountains are seen thoughout this region, and those few are so little
elevated that they present but trifling obstructions when compared with
many that are found in the eastern States. This section is, however,
traversed throughout, nearly its whole length, by the lofty plateau of the
“Llano estacado,” which, as will be observed upon the map, stretches out
from the 32d to the 36th parallel of latitude, and is, in places, two
hundred miles wide, without a tree or running stream throughout its
entire surface, and presents, in my judgment, an impassable barrier to
a wagon road; and I am fully impressed with the belief that a route

crossing this desert anywhere between the 33d parallel of latitude and
its northern limits will never be selected for a Pacific railway, or, indeed,
aroad of any description. South of this parallel the plain becomes
less elevated above the adjacent country, and finally merges into the
lands bordering the Pecos and the head branches of the Colorado.

LAGUNA COLORADO. 111

i Ifit be impracticable to construct and find the material for sustain-
ing a railway across this desert, the question arises whether a feasible,
route can be found near the northern or southern borders of it.

The road which was made under my supervision from Fort Smith
Arkansas, to Santa Fé, New Mexico, in 1849, (with one exception, where
it crosses a spur, which can easily be turned,) skirts the base of the
northern border of this plain; and so far as the topography of the coun-
try is concerned, I believe that a railroad can be made over it with great
facility, as the general surface is smooth, and intersected by no impass-
able mountains or deep valleys.

On departing from Fort Smith, this road traverses a gently undulating
district, sustaining a heavy growth of excellent timber, but occasion-
ally interspersed with prairie lands, affording luxuriant grass for eight
months in the year, and intersected with numerous small streams
flowing over a highly productive soil, thus embracing the elements
of a rich and beautiful pastoral and agricultural locality. This char-
acter continues for one hundred and eighty miles, to near the 99th
meridian of longitude, where the road emerges from the woodlands
and enters the great plains, where but little timber is seen except |
directly along the borders of the water-courses, The soil soon becomes
thin and sandy, and, owing to the periodical droughts of the summer
season, would require artificial irrigation to make it available for cultiva-
tion,

Soon after leaving the woodlands the road takes a ridge which
divides the Canadian from the Washita river, and continues upon it to
near the sources of the latter stream, a distance of nearly three hundred
miles. This ridge lies in a very direct course for Santa Fé, is firm and
smooth, and makes one of the best natural roads I have ever travelled
over. The ground upon each side is cut up into a succession of deep
and precipitous gullies, which have been washed out by the continued
action of water in such a manner as to render any other route in the
vicinity, but the one directly upon the crest of the “divide,” almost im-
passable.

From the head of the Washita the road continues near the valley of
the Canadian for a hundred miles further, occasionally crossing small
tributaries which furnish the traveller with water at convenient distances;
it then bears to the left, and passes over the elevated lands bordering the
Pecos river, skirting the base of the mountains along that stream until
it arrives at a place called “Laguna Colorado,” a small lake of muddy
water, where the road forks, one branch leading to Santa Fé over a road
forty miles in length, and the other to Albuquerque, (the point where

112 CROSSING OF BRAZOS AND COLORADO.

the route through what is called “ Walker’s Pass” is said to leave the Rio
Grande,) a distance of only twenty miles. hoy

The distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, as measured with he
chain, is eight hundred and twenty miles.*

The line of this road continued east from Fort Smith would iniatigit
the Mississippi river in the vicinity of Memphis, Tennessee, and would
pass through the country bordering the Arkansas river, which cannot be
surpassed at fertility, as the bountiful crops of cotton, corn, and other
products grown by the planters, abundantly evince.

“The route of my return from New Mexico in 1849, which has been
travelled by California emigrants every year since that time, leaves the
Rio Grande at a point called Dofia-Ana, three hundred miles below
Santa Fé.

On leaving this place, at an elevation of about four thousand feet
above the sea, the road for three hundred miles traverses an arid prairie
region, where but little wood is found except upon three ranges of
mountains which stretch out to the north, but do not materially obstruct
» the passage of the road. They are covered for the most part with pine

timber, and abound in spring's of wholesome water, making it.im erative

upon the traveller to pass near them. Upon the route marked down,
' the defiles have but little elevation above the general surface, and, with
the exception of a few miles of broken ground near the “ “Peak of Gau-
dalupe,” the ascents and descents to all cia undulations are gradual and
easy. At the southern extremity of the Gaudalupe mountains the sum-
mit level of the country between the Rio Grande and the Pecos is at-
tained, and from this point the surface declines to the borders ,of the
latter.stream by a gradation almost ¢mperceptible. Crossing the Pecos,
_the road ascends by a grade of about five feet per mile for twenty-five
miles, and the traveller here finds himself upon the broad plain of the

“Llano estacado,” which at this point divides the waters of the Rio
‘ Grande from those of the Colorado. The road crosses x southern spur

‘of this plain, where it is seventy: miles broad, and as firm and smooth

as the best McAdamized road.. Thence it crosses the head branches

of the Colorado and the main Brazos, and leads off to a ridge which
terminates near Fulton, Arkansas, upon the nayigable waters of Red
river. By leaving this ridge and crossing Red river at_ Preston, a good
<

*The barometrical altitude of Albuquerque above tide- water is about 5,130
feet, and of Fort Smith about 600 feet; making the difference in altitude, or total
declination eastward between the two points, 4,530 feet, or an average grade of a
little over 53 feet to the mile.

BITUMINOUS COAL. 113

a

road is found to Fort Smith, upon the navigable portion of the Arkansas,
which would be in a very direct course for St. Louis, and traverse one
of the most productive sections of the United States.

The entire distance from Dona Ana to Fulton is about eight hundred
and fifty miles, and to Fort Smith nine hundred and four miles. The
road from El Paso connects, at the Sierra Waco, with the one described,
and is thirty miles shorter. j

Dofia Ana being elevated four thousand feet above the tide-water
level, and Fulton and Fort Smith six hundred and sixty and six hundred
respectively, gives an average grade of less than four feet to the mile
over either road. These resulis, of course, can only be regarded as ap-
proximate estimates, which will be increased upon the undulatory por-'
tions of the routes. The surface of the country, however, has a remark-
ably uniform dip to the east and south throughout nearly its whole
extent, and is perhaps better adapted by nature to the reception of a
railroad than almost any other which can be found.

A glance at a map of the country will show that Red river, from the
point of its efflux upon the Delta of the Mississippi to Fulton, has a
northerly bearing; that here it makes a sudden deflection of almost a
right-angle to the west, and maintains this course to its origin in the
“ Llano estacado.”

The road alluded to, immediately after leaving Fulton, leads to an
elevated ridge, dividing the waters that flow into Red river from those
of the Sulphur and Trinity, and continues upon it, with but few devia-
tions from the direct course for El Paso and Dofia Ana, to near the
Brazos river, a distance of three hundred and twenty miles. This
portion of the route has its locality in a country of surpassing, beauty
and fertility, and possesses all the requisites for attracting and sustaining
a dense farming population. It is diversified with prairies and wood-
lands, affording a great variety.of excellent timber, and is bountifully
watered with numerous spring-brooks, which flow off upon either side of
the ridge into the streams before mentioned. The crest of the ridge is
exceedingly smooth and level, and is altogether the best natural or arti-
ficial road I have ever travelled over for the same distance.

After leaving this ridge the road crosses the Brazos near very exten-
sive fields of bituminous coal, (the only locality of this mineral, so far as
my knowledge extends, that has been discovered within two hundred
miles,) which burns readily with a clear flame, is made use of for fuel at
Fort Belknap, and is very superior in quality.

From the Brazos the road skirts small affluents of that stream and

the Colorado for two hundred miles, through a country more undulating
8

114 LLANO ESTACADO.

than that east of the Brazos; but no mountains are met with, or eleva-
ted hills, which cannot be avoided by short detours.

Here and there prairies present themselves, but this section is for the
most part covered with a growth of trees called mezquite, which stand
at such intervals that they present much the appearance of an immense
peach orchard. They are from five to ten inches in diameter, their stocks
about ten feet in length, and for their durable properties are admirably
adapted for railway ties, and would furnish an inexhaustible amount of
the very best fuel. The soil upon this section is principally a red argil-
laceous loam, similar in appearance to that in the Red river bottoms,
which is so highly productive, and extends to near the 102d degree of
longitude, or about three degrees further west than the arable soil upon
some of the more northerly routes.

As this route is included within the 32d and 34th parallels of lati-
tude, it would never be obstructed by snow, as it seldom falls more
than two or three inches in depth, and only remains upon the ground a
few hours at a time.

The whole surface of the country, from Red river to the Rio Grande,
is covered with a dense coating of the most nutritious grass, which
remains green for nine months in the year, and enables eatin to sub-
sist the entire winter without any other forage.

It will be observed that the route here spoken of skirts the head-
waters of the rivers flowing towards the Gulf of Mexico, for several
hundred miles after leaving Red river, and that a road cannot be made
much further to the north without impinging upon the “Llano estacado.”
From what I have seen of the country south of this, I have no doubt
but that a road could be made in almost any direction, but would be
attended with much greater cost than upon the one I have attempted
to describe, for the reason that the surface of the country along this
route is much more level. a

After passing the Brazos river, the road, as I have before observed,
runs near the sources of the streams, where the valleys are broad and
but little depressed below the general surface; whereas I have remarked
that in descending some of these streams, the longitudinal and lateral
valleys become deep and abrupt, and where (as would be the case with
a Pacific railway) it became necessary to cross these undulations trans-
versly, a greater expenditure of labor would be involved in grading
than upon the other route. There would also be many more large
streams to bridge; indeed, upon the route I have recommended, there
are but two streams (the Brazos and Pecos) of greater width than forty
feet, over the entire distance of eight hundred and fifty miles, between
Red river and the Rio Grande.

ELEVATION OF MOUNTAIN PASSES. 115

_As Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego, in California, are nearly in the
same direct line, and one which intersects the longitudinal axis of the
continent at right-angles, a road connecting these points would form
the shortest line of communication to the Pacific in this latitude, and
would pass near the valley of the Gila, or its vicinity.

The direct line of this road prolonged eastwardly from Fulton
would pass through Arkansas, and intersect the Mississippi river a little
below Napoleon, opposite the State of Mississippi, and would traverse
a section which presents no serious impediment to the passage of a rail-
road.

This route was surveyed in 1851 by Mr. Sidell, (civil engineer,) under
the direction of the Topographical Bureau, and resulted in perfectly
establishing the feasibility of the route, and the determination of the fact
that the most elevated ground between Lake Providence and Fulton
(a distance of two hundred miles) is but one hundred and sixty feet
above the flood water-table of the Mississippi, and only one hundred
feet above that of Red river.

The terminus of the eastern section of this route upon the Del Norte,
could be resumed upon the west bank of that stream; and if the practi-
cability of constructing the road down the valley of the Gila can be
established, it would give a continuous line to the Colorado river.

Although our knowledge of the country west of the Rio del Norte is
for the most part confined to a few traces that have been pursued by
travellers making their way to the Pacific; yet it is believed that suffi-
cient reliable data may be deduced from competent authorities to war-
rant the expectation of finding a route with admissible grades, as far,
at least, as the Colorado.

Before reaching the waters that flow into the Pacific, it becomes
necessary upon this route, as upon all others in our territory, to sur-
mount the Rocky Mountain chain. The elevation.of the crest of this
great continental vertebral column varies from five to seventeen thou-
sand feet above the tide-level of the ocean, but has a declension to-
wards its southern extremity, which greatly favors the project in ques-
tion. The barometrical measurements which have been made, place
“Long’s Peak” in latitude 40° 36’ at the maximum, and the culmina-
tion of a pass or defile in near latitude 32° at the minimum altitude.

The elevation of the eastern base of the mountains in latitude 42° is
the same as the summit of the range in latitude 32°. The elevation of
other passes that have been examined, vary from seven to: eight thou-
sand feet above tide.

If, so far as the economy of railway transportation is concerned, the

116 : ROUTE TO THE GULF.

attainment, with the locomotive, of twenty feet in altitude, is equivalent
to the transit of a mile upon a horizontal plane, we would have (other
conditions being equal) a difference of one hundred miles in horizontal
distance in favor of the route under consideration, over one which
should pass the mountains at an elevation of seven thousand feet.

The difference of elevation of the Rio del Norte in the vicinity of
Dojia Ana, and the crest of the mountains in latitude 32°, being about
one thousand feet, and the distance between the two positions about one
hundred miles, gives an average grade (which is said to be very uni-
form) of ten feet per mile in ascending the eastern slope of the mount-
ains. From the summit to the mouth of the Gila, a distance of three
hundred and eighty miles, the difference in altitude, barometrically de-
termined, is four thousand seven hundred and forty-six feet, which (sup-
posing the slope to be uniform) admits of a gradient of about twelve
and a half feet to the mile in descending the Pacific side of the mount-
ains.

The road upon this side would be much more circuitous in its course
than upon the other; the grades will be increased upon the undulatory
portions of the country, and some difficulty may be anticipated in pass-
ing the great cafion of the Gila, provided the road is confined exclu-
sively to the limits of our own territory; but a gentleman of scientific
attainments, who has examined this route carefully, is of the opinion
that no greater impediments will be met with upon the Gila than are
found upon the Hudson river road. From the Colorado to the Pacific
(unless some other pass is discovered) the road must penetrate the
“Sierra Nevada” chain, through what is called “ Warner’s Pass.”

The summit of this defile is situated north of the general course of
the road, and the approaches to it, upon both sides, are somewhat tor-
tuous. It is about one hundred miles distant from the confluence of
the Gila with the Colorado, and about eighty miles from San Diego on
the Pacific.

The elevation of the Pass above tide-water being three thousand and
thirteen feet, and that of the Colorado, at the rai of the Gila, two
hundred and fifty-four feet, we would have an average gradation of
twenty-seven and a half feet per mile in the ascent of the eastern slope,
and a descent from the Pass of thirty-seven and a half feet to the mile
in reaching San Diego.

Should it be found desirable, on arriving at the mouth of the Gila,
to turn the course of the road, and run it down the valley of the Colo-
rado to the head of the Gulf of California, I am informed by persons
who have examined this section that the surface is free from obstruc-

ADAIR BAY.

tions, and the distance to Adair bay (where four fathoms of water may
be relied upon at ebb-tide) is about eighty miles.
I am, sir,
Very respectfully,
Your obedient servant,
RANDOLPH B. MARCY,
Captain 5th Infantry, U. S. Army.

”

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APPENDIX A.

METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

120 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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126 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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*pantijquoy —SNOILVAUESAG), TVOIDOTOXUOALAY

127

APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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128 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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129

APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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130 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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131

APPENDIX A.—-METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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pue Jopuny} :UlVl pue pulM 4usTOLA
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132 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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*PanurtqywUoryy——-SNOILLVAUASAQC) TVOINOTOUOR LAY

133

APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

“‘QYSTU OYISULIMNp PULA

Suo01s {spnoyo snnwuMno pue snquiiny

(7431, Ur0yQ.100) “NV
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1384 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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135

APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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APPENDIX A.

136

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137

APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS.

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APPENDIX B.

COURSES AND DISTANCES.

TABLE OF COURSES AND DISTANCES ON THE ROUTE OF CAPT.
| MARCY’S EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER.

APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

140

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141

APPENDIX B.——-COURSES AND DISTANCES.

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APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

142

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APPENDIX B.—-COURSES AND DISTANCES.

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APPENDIX B.

144

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145

APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

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APPENDIX B.—=COURSES AND DISTANCES.

146

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COURSES AND DISTANCES: 147

APPENDIX B.

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APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

148

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149

APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

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COURSES AND DISTANCES.

APPENDIX B.

150

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APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

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APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES.

152

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APPENDIX C.

MINERALOGY.

REPORT ON THE MINERALS COLLECTED: BY PROF. CHARLES
UPHAM SHEPARD.

APPENDIX C.

REPORT ON THE MINERALS COLLECTED: BY PROF. CHARLES
UPHAM SHEPARD.

Amuerst Cotuece, June 1, 1853.

My Dzar Sir: The following report relates to the specimens collected
by Captain Marcy, and which, agreeably to your request, were submitted
by me to a chemical and mineralogical examination.

Very respectfully and truly yours,
CHARLES UPHAM SHEPARD.

To President Hircucocx.

—————

1. COPPER ORES—MARCYLITE.

The most interesting of these was a specimen of rather more than one
ounce in weight, from the main or south fork of Red river, near the
Witchita mountains. It is a black compact ore, strongly resembling
the black oxide of copper from the Lake Superior mines, for which
substance I at first mistook it. It was partially coated by a thin layer
of the rare and beautiful atacamite, (muriate of copper of Phillips.)
This is the first instance in which this species has been detected in
North America. On subjecting the black ore to a close investigation, it
proves to be a substance hitherto undescribed, and it affords me much
pleasure to name it, in honor of the very enterprising and successful
explorer to whom mineralogy is indebted for the discovery, Marcylvte.
It is massive and compact; fracture even; color black; opaque; lustre
none; hardness equals that of calcite, or 3 of the mineralogical scale;
sectile streak shining; powder light grayish black; specific gravity,
4.0 to 4.1. In small fragments it melts in the heat of a candle, to the
flame of which it imparts a rich blue and green color. This is especially
striking when a blow-pipe is employed. The slightest heat of the in-
strument suffices for the fusion of the ore. The chloride of copper is
volatilized, and spreads over the charcoal support, from which the splen-
did green color rises also. On directing the flame of the candle against
it, the mass, or assay, remains for some time fluid, continuing to give
the color as at first, till finally the green and blue tinge declines, and at

156 APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY.

last disappears altogether; after which the globule swells out into large
bubbles and suddenly collapses, and this repeatedly for a number of
times, (ten or fifteen,) when it seems to be pure copper. In cooling,
however, a thin, light steel-gray pellicle forms upon its surface, which
separates by a slight blow with the hammer, revealing a globule of pure
copper within. This coating, on being fused with borax, gives rise to
a colorless glass, with brilliant points of metallic copper adhering to the
support of subjacent charcoal: a fragment heated in a small glass tube
before the blow-pipe, enters into fusion and evolves much moisture,
which contains traces of hydrochloric acid. The powdered mineral is
almost wholly dissolved by ammonia, and the black powder which
remains is slowly taken up by warm nitric acid, with the separation of
traces of silica. Sulphuric acid dissolves the mineral, with the extrica-
tion of hydrochloric acid. Analysis gave the following as the compo-
sition of the ore:

Copper... 2... 050. eee secant oe Se 54.30
Oxygen and chlorine: 0. 6220 Bee he ose eee 36.20
WW atO0 sai 2 winiae boed ween Sabb alee cen See er 9.50

100.00

With traces of silica.

The above is undoubtedly a very valuable ore for copper, as it is very
rich in metal, and easy of reduction in the furnace. Numerous speci-
mens of the same ore, but very impure from an admixture of fine sand,
were embraced in the collection, as coming from Copper creek, four
miles from Cache creek, They were in the form of flattened, irregular
discs, about two inches across and half an inch thick, having their sur-
faces coated by malachite (carbonate of copper) in a pulverulent condi-
tion. Along with the above, also, were found similarly shaped masses
of an impure black oxide of copper, (coated by malachite,) which had
the following composition :

Copper (with traces of iron)..........----.---- 35.30 to 40.00
Silbear watestee. sds Seo os es eee 30.60
Oxygen.and ‘walterissls er tee diet eee 34.10

100.00

It is fusible before the blow-pipe, but does not tinge the flame blue or
green. The fused mass bubbles up for a time, and finally yields a
globule of copper with a thick crust, which is black, and feebly at-
tracted by the magnet. A copper ore of the average characters of
these flattened masses would yield from 33 to 35 per cent. in the large
way.

APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY. 157

Still another variety of copper ore is ticketed “June 3, Gypsum
Bluff” It consists of numerous small fragments of a friable, fine-grained
white sandstone, much mixed up with a pulverulent malachite, and
occasionally presenting specks of black oxide of copper. Taken asa
whole, I should judge that it might be a 5 per cent. ore.

Another variety still of copper ore, some stones, labelled “May 16
first day from Cache creek.” They consist of a calcareous amygdaloid,
through which are interspersed black oxide of copper and stains of mala-
chite. Its value for metal would not exceed that of the variety last
mentioned.

“May 17” refers to a compact grayish white limestone, much mot-
tled with red. It contains druses of calcite, fibres of mesotype, and
stains of black oxide of copper. It belongs, like the last, to the trap-
pean family of minerals.

2. MANGANESE ORE.

“Copper creek, third day from Cache creek.” An impure ore.
When treated with warm hydrochloric acid, it evolves chlorine gas, It
contains much silica, and some peroxide of iron, with 15.75 per cent. of
water and about 10 per cent. binoxide of manganese. The specimen is
imperfectly foliated, and, in places, is columnar. It is porous, and of a
black color, resembling black oxide of copper. It was tested both for
copper and cobalt, without detecting either.

3. IRON AND TITANIAN SANDS.

“July 18, Cache creek, foot of cliff’ This is a heavy, rather coarse
black sand; more than half of which consists of magnetic iron, the
remainder being titaniferous iron, It is remarkable for its purity in
these two minerals, the most careful search not resulting in the dis-
covery of other minerals mingled with it, if we except a few grains of
quartz labradorite and epidote. An ineffectual examination of it was
had for tin and gold. Another specimen, collected July 16, was tested
with a similar result.

4, OTHER MINERALS,

“May 31.” Labradorite in numerous specimens. Its color is a dark
pearl-blue, or gray; it does not fire the iridescent reflexions. From

158 APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY.

the size and purity of the masses, it would appear to be a very abun-
dant mineral, even if it does not amount to a rock, throughout the
region of the Witchita mountains.

Specimens were collected, bearing the same date, of a red cellular
limestone, which may have originated, if we suppose a soft ferruginous
clay to have been parted off by meshes, or cell-walls, of calcareous
matter, and the clay to have been subsequently washed away, or in
some manner mostly removed.

“July 15, base of Witchita mountains.” Reddish septaria, or a
mixture of peroxide of iron and calcite, traversed by veins of pure cal-
cite, surfaces of the masses somewhat botryoidal. A singular variety
of cellular quartz, said to have occurred in veins in the Witchita
mountains, was carefully examined for gold, but without the detection
of a trace of the precious metal, notwithstanding some of the specimens,
from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites, looked
very promising for gold.

5. SOILS.

“ Sub-soil Cache creek, May 14; the same as that found about the
Witchita mountains.” The sample had been kneaded by the hand
into a ball. Its color was reddish brown; it contained no organic
matter. Analysis gave the following result:

Silica, (including some fine feldspathic grains).....-.--..- 82.25
Peroxide of iton ici. 220 5. Sees Le ae eee 2.65
Moumiitias on./2. 26h. Shee Deen See eee 0.55
Carbonate of, lime, 25 2).'3.2 0c ee eae eee ee 5.40
Carbonate: of amagnesia. cco coc otc ce oe eee 1.70
Water (hygrometric moisttire)-..c.-. 6. jvc. J eee en wee 5.50
Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash......---.-..---- traces

98.05

This soil contains no perceptible traces of chlorine, or any other sul-
phate besides that of lime. It would appear to have an excellent con-
stitution, as a sub-soil, for the cultivation of the grain crops, as well as
for cotton. It is eminently a calcareous soil, and probably has a sufii-
ciency of potash present also; but the quantity of the material did not
enable me to determine the proportion of this constituent.

“Sub-soil, June 3.” This sub-soil is fine grained, and has a clayey
appearance. Its color is a deep red. Little fragments of gypsum may
be detected scattered through its mass, It has the following rather
unusual composition :

APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY.

0 ES Be eo ee 79.30
MOM ee cei tise hie c Sue eek eee nae cca(lnves 8.95
ck oro, iis la ite cinicicwied epinidtentera 1.50
TN ci OID ae wa dnc mes engl imona 1.10
Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and

NCE AMIE ec ade nn ed cose suns sancnlsne waned 4.65
SE oes nos Ca diwec abe s Mea auth co Re ae ae 4.50
100.00

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APPENDIX D.

GEOLOGY.

NOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS AND MINERALS COL-
LECTED: BY PRESIDENT EDWARD HITCHCOCK.

REMARKS UPON THE GENERAL GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY
TRAVERSED: BY GEO. G. SHUMARD, M. D.

1]

Fa

Pini

APPENDIX D.

GEOLOGY.

NOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS AND MINERALS COL-
LECTED: BY EDWARD HITCHCOCK, PRESIDENT OF AMHERST
‘COLLEGE.

Dzar Sir: I have done what I could with the specimens you put
into my hands from the Red river; but I must confess, that while these
specimens, with the sections and notes by Dr. Shumard and yourself,
have disclosed some interesting and valuable substances, I have found it
impossible to solve several questions of importance for the want of more
specimens, especially fossils. Without these, you are aware, the tertiary
and secondary formations cannot be identified with any degree of cer-
tainty. Yet the whole number of species sent me does not exceed halt
a dozen, and several of these are so mutilated that their specific charac-
ter cannot be determined. The two most important formations pointed
out in your notes, and in the sections, are the gypsum deposite and that
of coal; yet from the former there is not in the collection more than
gne species of fossil, and from the latter no specimen whatever ; so that
the exact place in the geological scale of these two formations is in a
great measure conjectural.*

But notwithstanding these deficiencies, we do get from the speci-
mens, and your notes, glimpses of several very valuable facts. The four
most important points in your discoveries are gypsum, copper, gold, and
coal. Perhaps I cannot bring out my views upon these and other points
better than by describing the specimens in the order of your march,
except where that was doubled upon itself. Where I can do it, and
think it of any service, I shall designate by colors, upon the map of
your route which you placed in my hands, the most important deposites,

At your starting point, Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, you men-
tion a fact of the deepest interest, viz: the occurrence of “large beds of
bituminous coal.” Dr. Shumard has given the following section of the
strata at this place:

_* When I wrote the above I was not aware that Dr. Geo. G. Shumard was re-
quested to report upon the paleontology of the exploration. When that report

appears, probably he, or others, can draw more accurate conclusions upon some
points than I have done.

164 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

1. Sub-soil, arenaceous, and of a red color, three to ten feet.

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating, four feet.

3. Seams of bituminous coal, two to four feet.

4, Fine-grained sandstone, yellowish gray, with fossil ferns; thick-
ness variable.

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone, of unknown thickness.

Dr. Shumard says that the fossil ferns in this formation belong to
“the carboniferous era.” He also describes the same formation on the
third day’s march, some fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap, on one of
the sources of Trinity river. He describes sandstone for several subse-
quent days, some of it coarse and highly ferruginous, with ripple-marks,
which I should suppose might belong to the same coal measures, did he
not mention that strata of red loam, so abundant in all that region, lie
beneath the sandstone; which could not be, if the coal belongs to the
carboniferous period. Yet he mentions that the same formation as that
around Fort Belknap is largely developed between Fort Washita and
Fort Smith, on Arkansas river. The latter fort is not less than three
hundred and fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap. On the 3d of May
he describes “large quantities of ironstone strewn over the surface,”
another accompaniment of the true coal.

Now, at first view it would seem almost certain that we have here a
description of a genuine coal formation of the carboniferous period, not
Jess than three hundred and fifty miles long, associated, moreover, with
those valuable iron ores which in other parts of the world are connected
with such deposites; for, in descending through the formation, we find,
first, overlying shale, then coal, then coal sandstone, or perhaps millstone
grit, and then perhaps carboniferous limestone. But it is well known
that coal occurs in other rocks besides the carboniferous, as in Eastern
Virginia in oolitic sandstone, and in other places in tertiary strata.
These more recent coals are often of great value, as in Virginia; but they
are not generally as good as those from the carboniferous strata. It
becomes an important question, therefore, to determine to what geologi-
eal period the coal under consideration belongs. A few specimens of the
fossil ferns would decide the matter, and I trust that Dr. Shumard is
right in referring them to the carboniferous era; but it is known that
analogous species occur in the higher rocks; and so, coal, even in the
tertiary strata, is sometimes more or less bituminous. The evidence,
however, appears to me to be strong in favor of this deposite being of
the carboniferous age. But in your letter of April 1st, you state some

facts respecting this coal that have thrown a little doubt over my mind
You say that—

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 165

“The coal formation at the Brazos is found ina coarse, dark sandstone
rock, which is a solid stratum, but is easily removed in consequence of
being so soft. In excavating for a well, we passed through the sand-
stone and the coal. The greater part of the stone was removed with the
mattock ; and in the coal, which was here about sixty feet below the
surface, we found fossil ferns, which, unfortunately, were not preserved.”

The ease with which this sandstone was removed, requiring only a
mattock, corresponds better with the hardness of tertiary than of carbo-
niferous rocks; yet, in some parts of the world, distant from igneous
rocks, the sedimentary strata are but little indurated.

Your statement respecting the coal on the Brazos, and the import-
ance of the substance to the future inhabitants of the western side of
the Mississippi valley, led me to recur to the journals of other explorers,
as well as your own from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, published by the
government in 1850, to ascertain whether this valuable mineral does
not occur in such places as to justify the inference that a large coal
field may exist in that portion of our country. I have not all of the
necessary works of reference at hand; but, in such as I have, I have
found the following cases, including those already described :

1. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, latitude 334° to 332°, longi-
tude 98° to 99°.

2. Between Forts Washita and Smith, latitude 34° to 354°, longitude
944° to 962°.

3. On Coal creek, near the South Fork of the Canadian, eighty-
eight miles from Fort Smith, in longitude 964°, latitude 343°. “ Bitu-
minous coal, used by the blacksmiths of the country, who pronounce it
of an excellent quality.” (See Captain Marcy’s report, p. 173.)

4. North branch of Platte river, latitude 42° to 43°, longitude 104°
to 107°; described by Rev. Samuel Parker, Exploring Tour, p. 73.
He calls this coal “ anthracite, the same, to all appearances, as he had
seen in the coal basins of Pennsylvania.”

5. On the same route Colonel Fremont found coal and fossil plants
in latitude 414°, and longitude 111°. The fossils greatly resembled
those of the true coal measures. He also found what was probably
brown or tertiary coal, in longitude 107°.

6. Major Emory met with “bituminous coal in abundance,” in lati-
tude 41°, longitude 105°. He was told of a bed thirty feet thick.

7. Lieutenant J. H Simpson describes bituminous coal in beds from
two to three feet thick, in latitude 36° 12’, and longitude 108° 52’;
and he states it to be “coextensive with the country between the valley

166 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

of the Rio Puerco and the east base of the Sierra de Tunecha, or
through a longitudinal interval of 73°.” (Report, p. 147.)

8. Lieutenant Abert found strata, which he regarded “indubitable
proof of the existence of coal,” in latitude 364°, and longitude 1043°.
(Report, p. 21.)

9. In 1818, Mr. Bringier described. “a large body of blind coal
(anthracite) equal in quality to the Kilkenny coal, and by far the best
he had seen in the United States, immediately on the bank of the
Arkansas, a little above the Pine bayou, five hundred miles from its
mouth, in latitude 38°, and longitude 98°. (American Journal of
Science, vol. 3. p. 41.)

10. On Monk’s map of the United States, (1853,) I find two spots in
Texas marked as “beds of coal,” one in latitude 29°, and longitude
100°; the other in latitude 282°, and longitude 101°.

I might, perhaps, add that Dr. F. Roemer describes a belt of granitic
and palzeozoic formations, the latter of carboniferous limestone and
silurian rocks, surrounded by a vast deposite of cretaceous rocks, be-
tween the Pedernales and San Saba rivers, in the northwest part of
Texas. The occurrence of such rocks, especially of the carboniferous
limestone, affords a strong presumption that the formation that usually
lies next above this rock exists in that region.

If, now, leaving out the cases described by Fremont as most probably
brown or tertiary coal, we locate the others mentioned above upon a
map of the United States, we shall find a region lying between latitude
282° and 43°, and between longitude 944° and 109°, containing not
less than nine deposites of coal, either bituminous or anthracitic ; some
of them one or two hundred miles long. Its northern limit is the north
branch of the Platte river; its eastern limit Fort Smith, on the Arkan-
sas; its western limit, in the country of the Navajoes, in New Mexico,
and even beyond the summit level of the Rocky mountains; and its
southwestern limit the Rio Grande, in the southwest part of Texas.
These limits would give a north and south diameter of one thousand
miles, and an east and west diameter of six hundred and eighty miles;
an extent of surface three times larger than that of all the coal fields
in the United States hitherto described, which cover only two hundred
and eighteen thousand square miles. Yet, in view of all the facts, I
think the geologist will be led strongly to suspect that a large part of
this vast region at the southwest may be underlaid by coal. The
larger part may be, and undoubtedly is, covered by newer deposites,
especially the cretaceous and the tertiary ; and doubtless the older rocks

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 167

in Texas, as already described, may in some districts protrude through
the coal measures. But if coal does actually exist beneath the newer
rocks, it may be reached, as it has been in like instances in Europe,
although no trace of it exists at the surface. |

The above suggestions may seem to embrace a very wide field for a
coal deposite. But on locating the several patches of coal upon a map
of the United States, I was struck with one fact. Starting with the
beds marked upon Monk,s map, in the southwest part of Texas, and
running the eye along the range of carboniferous limestone described by
Dr. Roemer, we come to the coal at Fort Belknap; next to the exten-
sive deposite lying between Forts Washita and Smith, in the west part of
Arkansas ; and all the way we find ourselves almost in the range of the
great coal field of Iowa and Missouri, as mapped by Dr. Owen; and
it seems to me that every geologist will at once infer that the Missouri
field does follow this line, not only across Arkansas, but also through the
Choctaw Nation, and probably across Texas—interrupted, probably, in
many places, by the protrusion of older rocks, and in others covered by
newer formations. I have a considerable degree of confidence that such
will ere long be found to be the fact, even if we leave out the other coal
deposites farther west and northwest. And should the result of your
explorations be to bring out such a development, I think you must feel
rewarded for your fatigues and privations.

That some of the cases above described may turn out to be tertiary
coal is quite possible, especially those along the base of the Rocky
mountains; for itis well known that much farther to the north such coal
is developed on a large scale, especially along Mackenzie’s river, even to its
mouth, on the Arctic ocean. Nor is it always easy for those not prac-
tised mineralogists to distinguish this coal, especially from anthracite.
Dr. Owen describes the southernmost bed of brown coal on the Mis-
souri (from four to six feet thick) as having “the aspect of ordinary
bituminous coal,” yet as “smouldering away, more like anthracite.”
(Report, p. 196.) Even such coal might be of great value; but I cannot
believe that much of that described above, especially that on the line
above indicated, will prove to be tertiary coal.

I ought to have mentioned, that among the specimens in my hands
is one of lignite, collected July 3, near the sources of Red river, not far
from the “Llano estacado,” and within the limits of the gypsum deposite
to be described. It is an exceedingly compact coal, and burns without
flame, emitting a pungent but not bituminous odor. It is doubtless
tertiary or cretaceous; but I think, if in large masses, it might easily be
mistaken for anthracite.

16S APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

From the 3d of May to June 2d, the formation passed over is, as I
judge from Dr. Shumard’s sections and descriptions, the predominant
one along the upper part of Red river. All the appended sections of
Dr. Shumard, except Nos. VI and XI, exhibit the characters and yarie-.
ties of this deposite. Red clay is the most striking and abundant mem-
ber; and above this we have a yellow or lighter colored sandstone, often
finely laminated. As subordinate members, we have blue and yellow
clay, gypsum, non-fossiliferous limestone, conglomerate, and copper
ore. Overlying these strata is what Dr. Shumard calls “ drift,” which
is surmounted by soil. Excepting the gypsum and the copper, no speci-
men of this formation was put into my hands; and only one petrefaction,
which is a coral from the base of section No. IV, unless the fossil-wood
belongs to it.

Now the question is, shall we regard this formation as tertiary, or
cretaceous? With the means in my hands I feel unable to decide this
question. If I am right in referring the fossil coral found im it to the
genus Scyphia, as described by Goldfuss, (Petrefacta Germaniz, Tab.
XXXII, fig. 8,) it most probably belongs to the cretaceous period; for,
of the one hundred and twenty species of this genus enumerated in
Bronn’s Index Paleontologicus, only one is found above the chalk. As
to the fossil-wood, which I shall notice more particularly further on, it
is well known to occur in almost all the fossiliferous deposites. Upon
the whole, I rather lean to the opinion that these strata may belong to
the cretaceous formation ; though it is singular, if such be the case, that
the fossil remains are so scarce, since, as we shall see, they occur abun-
dantly in another portion of the field in which the cretaceous rocks
abound.

Under these circumstances I shall speak of this deposite under the
name of the Red Clay Formation, save where gypsum is very abundant,
and then I call it the Gypsum Formation; and thus have I marked these
rocks on your map,

The sandstone which constitutes the upper part of this formation has
a slight dip, in a few places, of 2° or 3°. On the 8th of June, however,
a grayish yellow sandstone is described as having a westerly dip of 40°;
and on the 9th of June, “an outcrop of finely laminated, red, ferruginous
sandstone” is mentioned, having an irregular northeasterly dip of 30°, as
shown on section VI. The next day the strata were found standing
nearly perpendicular; but whether this sandstone is the same as that
lying above the red clay, is not mentioned. If it is, its great dip proba-
bly results from some local disturbance. If it is not, it is probably a
protruding mass of older rock exposed by denudation or upheaval.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 169

_ The branches of Red river have cut deep chasms in this formation.
In some places they are spoken of as fifty, and in others as two hundred
feet deep. This clay, worn away by the streams, and mechanically sus-
pended, gives that red color to the water, from which, without doubt,
was derived the name of Red river. As to the substances held in solu-
tion by the waters of that river, some further description will be desirable
before mentioning them.

The red clay formation above described abuts against the Witchita
mountains, occupying the lower and more level regions around their
base. Here we have an outburst of unstratified rocks, which are satis-
factorily represented in the specimens.

If the relative position of the red clay and sandstone on section XI is
correctly shown, I should infer some disturbance in the stratified de-
posites, which would indicate a more recent upheaval of the mountains
than might be inferred from the nature of the rocks. The principal one
is a red granite, with a great predominance of feldspar, and the almost
total absence of mica. Porphyry also occurs in great quantity, of a
reddish color, the imbedded crystals, for the most part, being red feld-
spar. In the easterly part of these mountains this rock is developed on
a large scale, forming smooth, rounded hills, which slope gradually down
to the plain. Cache creek passes through one of these hills, forming a
gorge from three hundred to four hundred feet high, with “smooth,
perpendicular walls.” This rock Dr. Shumard calls porphyritic green-
stone, and one of these walls is shown on section XI. He says that the
rock is slightly columnar.

The rocks of these mountains are traversed by veins of greenstone
and quartz. The latter is often porous and colored by the oxide of
iron. The greenstone is the most recent of the unstratified rocks among
my specimens, save a single vesicular mass, broken probably from a
boulder, which has all the external marks of lava. It looks more like
recent lava than any specimens I have ever met among greenstone or
basalt. It was collected June 15th, west of the great gypsum deposite,
though in a region abounding with sandstone, and near the bluffs that
form the border of the “Llano estacado.” Dr. Shumard found in the bed
of the Red river, near the same place, what he calls greenstone, green-
stone porphyry, and trachite. The specimen to which I have referred is
rather augitic than trachitic. He says, also, that he found there “black
scoria, and several other specimens of volcanic rocks.” Again, on ap-
proaching the Witchita mountains on the return trip, he describes one
as “a truncated cone, with a basin-shaped depression in the summit.”
Of this he seems to have judged by looking at the mountain froma

170 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

distance. But taking all the facts into the account, I cannot but feel
that there is reason to presume that volcanic agency has been aca In
that region more recently than the trap dykes.

I ought to add, that before reaching the Witchita mountains Dr.
Sia met with large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous
rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of lime, strewed over
the surface. This was on the 18th of May, and on the 27th he “ fre-
quently encountered local deposites of red, scoriaceous rock.” Among
the specimens in my hands are some apparently more or less melted,
composed of carbonate of lime and copper ore.

Again, scattered widely over the surface, numerous specimens were
found of jasper, carnelian, and agate. The carnelian is deep red, but
found in botryoidal, or even stalactitical masses, and they have seemed
to me to resemble more those silicious nodules found in soft limestone
than in trap rocks. They were found most abundantly towards the
western part of the region gone over.

I ought to have mentioned that the Witchita mountains consist of
numerous peaks, rising from eight hundred to nine hundred feet above
the river. Mount Webster, one of the most conspicuous, was found to
be 783 feet above the plain by the barometer. Twelve of these eleva-
tions were found to be composed of granite, which in many places is
undergoing rapid disintegration.

We have seen in the red clay of this region a reason for the name of
Red. river, and the character of its waters. In the above description
of the rocks of the Witchita mountains, I think we may see the origin
of the red clay. The great amount of iron which they contain would
produce exactly such a deposite upon their decomposition and erosion
by water. And we have reason for supposing this red granite to be a
quite extensive formation, as I shall shortly show.

No one at all acquainted with the rocks in which gold is found can
look at the specimens you have obtained in the Witchita mountains
without expecting that he shall be able to detect that metal. The por-
phyry, the porous quartz from veins impregnated with hydrate of iron,
and the magnetic iron-sand found in the bed of Otter and Cache creeks,
excite this expectation. In one of your letters you state that “the peo-
ple of Texas have for a long time supposed that there was gold im the
Witchita mountains, and they have attempted to make several examina-
tions for the purpose of ascertaining the fact, but have invariably been
driven away by the Indians. We searched diligently about the mount-
ains, but could find only two very minute pieces imbedded in quartz
pebbles.” This, as Dr. Shumard states, was upon Otter creek, and there

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 171

occurred the ferruginous sand, which occurs also upon Cache creek in
great quantities. We have not been so fortunate as to find any gold in
the specimens sent, although the sand has been carefully examined, and
two assays have been made of the quartz in the laboratory. Yet I can
easily believe that gold must exist either among that black sand, or in
the veins of ferruginous quartz—sometimes three feet wide—so common
in the Witchita mountains.

It is well known that a good deal of excitement exists on this subject
at the present moment in Texas; but the “ gold diggings” there lie upon
the upper Colorado. From some able remarks on the subject in the
“ Telegraph and Texan Register” of April 29th, by the editor, Francis
Moore, jr., I learn that the region where the gold is found is “a belt of
fifteen or twenty miles wide, which extends from the sources of the
Gaudalupe, by the Enchanted Rock, to the head of Cherokee creek, a
branch of the San Saba.” The description of that belt which follows,
as you will see, corresponds very well to the region around the Witchita
mountains. “The red granite rocks here crop out above the secondary
formations, and veins of quartz are found traversing the rocks in all
directions. The soil is generally of a red mulatto color, caused by the
decomposition of the red feldspar of the granite. These rocks resemble,
it is said, those of the gold regions of California and Santa Fé. A gen-
tleman who has recently visited the Nueces states that gold has also
been found on that river; and if the report that gold has been found in
the Witchita mountains be correct, it is possible that this narrow belt of
primitive rocks extends quite through from the Nueces to those mount-
ains, a distance of about four hundred miles. It is mentioned in Long’s
Expedition that a narrow belt of red granite is found jutting up through
the prairie region on the Des Moines river, in Iowa, and it is not im-
probable that this is a continuation of the primitive ridge, extending by
the Witchita mountains and the Enchanted Rock, to the sources of the
Nueces, and it may extend far above Lake Superior.” As to this
northern extension of these gold-bearing rocks, I do not find much to
confirm the conjecture in Dr. Owen’s late able report on that region,
although he does mention scme red granite and some red clay; but the
latter is probably alluvial. Yet, that these rocks may extend through
Texas, and even much farther north, is extremely probable.

But though your discovery of gold will probably excite more atten-
tion, I feel that the great gypsum deposite of the West, which you have
brought to light, will be of far more consequence to the country.

On your map I have colored this formation as you have marked it
out. Yet I cannot doubt, from the descriptions and sections, that the

172 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

gypsum is embraced in the red clay formation already described, for
most of this mineral occurs above the red clay, though sometimes em-
braced within it. Yet the importance of the gypsum justifies me in
coloring that portion of these strata as the gypsum formation where it
is most abundant. It is several times mentioned as occurring in other
parts of the region, marked as red clay. But on the 3d of June, high
bluffs were met of red and blue clay, with interstratified layers of snow-
white gypsum. From this time till the 12th the same formation was
found, and also from the 21st of June to the 9th of July. But your
own description of this formation in your letter of November, 1852,
contains a better account of its extent than I can give.

“T have traced this gypsum belt,” you observe, “from the Canadian
river, in a southwest direction, to near the Rio Grande, in New Mexico.
It is about fifty miles wide upon the Canadian, and is embraced within
the 99th and 100th degrees of west longitude. Upon the North, Mid-
dle, and South forks of Red river it is found, and upon the latter is
about one hundred miles wide, and embraced within the 101st and 103d
degrees of longitude. I also met with the same formation upon the
Brazos river, as also upon the Colorado and Pecos rivers, but did not
ascertain its width. The point where I struck it, upon the Pecos, was
in longitude 1044° W.

“Wherever I have met with this gypsum I have observed all the
varieties from common plaster of Paris to pure selenite; and among
specimens of the latter were pieces three feet by four, two inches i
theckness, and as perfectly transparent as auy crown glass I have ever
seen. It is to be regretted that I could not have brought home some of
these beautiful specimens; but my means of transportation were too
limited. 1 regard this gypsum belt as a very prominent and striking
feature in the geology of that country. From its uniformity and extent
I do not think there is a more perfect and beautiful formation of the kind
known. I have myself traced it about three hundred and fifty miles,
and it probably extends much further.”

The position and thickness of the gypsum beds may be learnt from
Dr. Shumard’s sections, especially No. V, where they are from ten to
fifteen feet thick. I do not wonder that you have been deeply impressed
with the vast extent of this deposite. Prof. D. D. Owen, in his late
valuable report of a geological survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, &c., (1852)
describes a gypseous deposite, twenty to thirty feet thick, in the car-
boniferous strata, and occupying an area from two to three square miles;
and he says, that “for thickness and extent, this is by far the most
important bed of plaster-stone known west of the Appalachian chain, if

APPENDIX D.—GEQLOGY. “7s

not in the United States.” (p. 126.) Either deposite may be large
enough to supply the wants of the inhabitants who may live near
enough to obtain it. But the vast extent of your deposite (doubtless
greater, as you say, than is at present known) will make it accessible to
much the greatest number of people. Indeed, from the well known use
of this substance in agriculture, as well as other arts, a knowledge of its
existence must have an important bearing upon the settlement and
population of northwestern Texas.

The only deposites of gypsum known to me that are more extensive
than the one discovered by you, are in South America. All along the
western side of the Cordilleras, especially in Chili, and interstratified
with red sandstone and calcareous slate, beds of gypsum occur of enor-
mous thickness, some of them not less than six thousand feet. It has
been tilted up and metamorphosed greatly by igneous agency of ancient
date, but seems to be of the age of the lower cretaceous rocks. Mr.
Darwin, to whose admirable work on the geology of South America I
am indebted for these facts, has traced this deposite at least five hundred
miles from north to south, (it is not many miles—sometimes, however,
twenty or thirty—in width,) and thinks it extends five hundred more;
and perhaps much further. He also describes thin beds of gypsum in
the tertiary strata of Patagonia and Chili, which aré some eleven hun-
dred miles in extent. This gypsum is generally more or less crystalline,
and corresponds much better in lithological characters with that in
Texas, than does the metamorphic gypsum of the Cordilleras. Mr.
Darwin is of opinion, however, that the latter was originally deposited
in a manner analogous to the former, viz: by means of submarine vol-
canoes and the conjoint action of the ocean. Very probably the ancient
igneous agency which we have described in the Witchita mountains,
and along a line southerly to the Rio Grande, may have been con-
nected with the production of the gypseous deposite in the same region.

The specimens of this gypsum put into my hands correspond with
your descriptions. One of them, of snowy whiteness and compact, it
seems to me, might answer for delicate gypseous alabaster, so extensively
wrought in other lands for ornamental purposes. The selenite was re-
garded among the ancients as the most delicate variety of alabaster, and
was employed by the wealthy, and in palaces, for windows, under the
name of Phengites. It has the curious property of enabling a person
within the house to see all that passes abroad, while those abroad can-
not see what is passing within. Hence Nero employed it in his palace.
If the splendid plates which you describe occur in any considerable
quantity, it may hereafter be of commercial value, as it certainly will
be of mineralogical interest.

174 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

From your description, especially in your lecture before the American
Geographical and Statistical Society, it is manifest that the character of
the rocks changes on the northwest of the gypsum formation, and near
the head of the south branch of Red river. The red clay and gypsum
have disappeared, and sandstone succeeds; but of what age I have no
means of judging. ,

Another interesting mineral found by you in the red clay and gypsum
formations above described, is copper. The specimens were put into
the hands of Professor Charles U. Shepard, who has analyzed them, as
well as several other specimens, in the laboratory of Amherst College,
and whose report I annex to my own. You will see that he has made
free use of your name by attaching it to a new ore of copper, found on
Red river near the Witchita mountains; and that he describes three or
four other species of copper ore from the same region. For a particu-
lar description I refer you to his report, while I confine myself to a few
remarks as to the geology of the deposite.

On section V, Dr. Shumard has shown the geological position of this
ore, viz: near the bottom of, and in the red clay, and more than one hun-
dred feet from the surface. We hence see that the ore was deposited
from water, although some specimens from Cache creek of calcareous
amygdaloid seem to have been melted. But if, as has been suggested,
the gypsum was produced by the joint action of submarine volcanoes
and water, the copper may have had the same origin, and this would
explain the presence of chlorine in the Marcylite.

How much copper may be expected in such a region as that on Red
river, [ have no means of judging, because I know of no analogous
formation. But as we have proof that it is an aqueous deposite, and
that igneous agency has been active not far off, it would not be
strange if the vicinity of Witchita mountains should prove a prolific
locality.

The oxide of manganese described by Professor Shepard may, per-
haps, be found abundant and more pure. And the iron sand, 80 com-
mon in some of the creeks, indicates the existence of magnetic oxide of
iron in the mountains.

Whether the red clay formation and the gypsum formation that have
been described are of the cretaceous age or not, there can be no doubt
as to the deposites passed over from July 20 to Fort Washita, for
among the specimens are two species of Gryphea, and one echinoderm,
much mutilated, but evidently of that period. On the 27th, a “blu-
ish gray, highly crystallized limestone” was observed, which cropped
out beneath the sandstone, and which Dr. Shumard says was “non-fossil-

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 175

iferous.” It continued, however, to the 30th, or to Fort Washita, where
he says, “I observed in it a large number of the fossils characteristic of
the cretaceous period.” Probably he refers to two kinds of limestone,
and not improbably the limestone and sandstone first noticed belong to
the carboniferous strata already noticed. Among the specimens ! also
find parts of two species of ammonite; one quite large, but quite char-
acteristic of the cretaceous strata, and resembling some good specimens
in the collection of the American Board of Foreign Missions, obtained
by their missionaries in the Choctaw country. I cannot doubt that
these strata are largely developed in that vicinity. Indeed, that region
has already been colored as of the cretaceous age upon our geological
maps. I have, therefore, marked a strip of cretaceous rocks between
Forts Belknap and Washita. These are, in truth, the predominant
strata in Alabama, Mississippi, and Texas, and I need not go into de-
tails respecting them.

Dr. Shumard frequently speaks of a surface formation under the
name of drift, consisting of boulders of all the rocks described above,
and some others, such as mica slate and labradorite. But I doubt
whether this formation be the same which we denominate drift in New
England—the joint result of water and ice; for no example has as yet
been found of drift agency as far south as Texas, by several degrees.
Yet there is evidence of a southerly movement among the smaller
rolled detritus almost to the Gulf of Mexico, such as water alone could
produce, seeming to be the result of the same current, destitute of ice,
that produced the coarse unstratified and unsorted drift of Canada and
New England. But among the specimens in my hands are several of
silicified wood, and all of them, I believe, are mentioned in Dr. Shu-
mard’s notes as occurring in drift; although in your letter of December
5, 1852, you speak of masses from fifty to one hundred pounds in
weight in the gypsum formation. You may mean in its upper part:*
if so, there may be no discrepancy between the two statements; and I
have been led to suspect that what Dr. Shumard calls drift may be
only a newer portion of the tertiary strata, although, as already re-
marked, silicified wood is found in almost all the fossiliferous formations.
All the specimens sent by you, however, with one exception, are dicoty-
ledonous. They resemble not a little the fossil-wood from Antigua, and
the desert near Cairo, in Egypt; both of which deposites are tertiary.
One specimen is a beautiful example of a monocotyledon, a cross sec-

*The fossil-wood referred to in Captain Marcy’s letter was found upon the
upper surface of the formation.

176 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

tion showing vessels of the shape of a half or gibbous moon. This fact
shows that the climate was warm enough for trees analogous to the
palm tribe to flourish; yet the great predominance of dicotyledonous
forms shows a close analogy with the existing vegetation of the south-
ern part of our country; nor is there evidence, in these specimens, of a
temperature above that now existing in our southern States, since seve-
ral species of palms occur there.

The two subsoils analyzed by Professor Shepard, give very interesting
results. The first is highly calcareous; and when the lime shall have
been exhausted in the overlying soil, this material, thrown up by sub-
soil ploughing, would be equal to a large dressing of lime. In the
other subsoil we have an extraordinary amount of sulphate of lime, and
a sufficiency of carbonate of lime, as well as chlorine and soda. It
seems hardly possible to doubt that such a basis would need only
organic matter to render it one of the most productive of all soils; and
when we think how extensive the gypsum formation is from which this
subsoil was obtained, we cannot but anticipate (unless there are coun-
teracting causes of which I am ignorant) that that portion of our coun-
try will become a rich agricultural district—I mean the region lying
east of the “Llano estacado.”

Only one specimen of common salt (chloride of sodium) was sent
among the specimens, and that, as you inform me, “was procured by
the Comanche Indians in the country lying between the Canadian and
Arkansas rivers.”

We are now prepared to appreciate an analysis of the water of Red
river, which has been executed in the laboratory of Amherst College by
Mr. Daniel Putnam, under the direction of Professor W. S. Clark.
This is somewhat of a mineral water, and you remark that all the waters
originating in the gypsum formation have the same bitter and nausea-
ting taste. I think you are right in the opinion that the ingredients
are derived from that formation. Analysis shows that the taste de-
pends upon the presence of three salts in nearly equal proportions, two
of which, sulphate of magnesia, or Epsom salts, and chloride of sodium,
are very sapid. Mr. Putnam’s analysis is as follows:

“Water from Red river—

W ater.in, fluid:ounces ccs ¢.chs.\ cnet wee eee 4

Weight of water in grammes. 5... cic-coo- senieewe 127.800
Weight of chlorine present. >... s2ee- =e sehieee 051
Weight of line present... 32>. Jocosa concen eee eee .033
Weight of sulphuric acid present...-.....--------.: .095

Residue evaporated to dryness, and weighed, proba-
bly, sulphates of soda and magnesia together,
WOIDIG 5 an 0 einen tm iniin scan we bw eee ele a Be 168

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. U7

“Tt was impossible, with the small quantity of water, to determine the last two
ingredients with absolute certainty. In the calculations following they are re-
garded as real. Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric
acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with sodium, we have
the following results:

Weiehs of sulphate of lime... ....-.-s<s0nnc5=- .080
Weight of sulphate of magnesia.........---..----- 073
Wrens of chioride of sodium...... 52.2226 120. 626. 084
TOR ESR 0) Ca er a eae ee BATE
Per-centage of matter in solution, about.........--- “19

“ The analysis of the water from a spring in a gypsum cave, yielded the following
results:

Weight of the water, in fluid ounces...---.....---- 4

Weight of the water in grammes, about..---..----. 127.800
Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid present........---- O11
Ment Or CIMOTINGS 25 20 esl lee eee Jt aces oc O14
WE tone sect eo> aoe eA el eS .090
Week ot.culphuric:acid :. Seis J .'a4 soa. 22 525. .227

The residue was evaporated, and the presence, but not the weight, of magnesia,
found separate from the soda. The quantity was very small, however.
Soda and magnesia together, about....-.--...-..-. 130

“ Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphurie acid as united

partly with magnesia and partly with soda, and the chlorine with sodium, we have
the following results:

Weight of sulphate of lime: .2. 2.02. 020. 0. sees eee 219
Weight of sulphate of magnesia........--.--...--- .088(?)
Weight of'sulphate of soda..-....2...220 0222 woes .073(2)
Pewter ehionde of SOdiuIN. <a: oie <n- io -jo0,c'o0,a0 5m 023
Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid...-.. BSS ois catia Al OL
Weight of the whole ...-.......... Ds itatwints ete 414
Per-centage of matter in solution ...............-. 82

“The analyses of water, on account of the small quantity, cannot be relied upon
as perfectly accurate; but they are the best I could make under the circum-
stances.”

Your account of the remarkable caftons of Red river, where it comes

- out from the borders of the “ Llano estacado,” as given in your lecture

before the American Geographical and Statistical Society, has been
read by me with great interest. For several years past I have been
engaged in studying analogous phenomena in this, which seems to
me a neglected part of geology. The cafions of our southwestern
regions are among the most remarkable examples of erosions on the

12

178 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

globe; and the one on Red river seems to me to be on a more gigantic
scale than any of which I have found a description. You seem in doubt
whether this gorge was worn away by the river, or is the result of some
paroxysmal convulsion. You will allow me to say that I have scarcely
any doubt that the stream itself has done the work. The fact that
when a tributary stream enters the main river it passes through a tribu-
tary cafon, seems to me to show conclusively that these gorges were
produced by erosion, and not by fractures; for, how strange would it
be if fractures should take those ramifications and curvatures which a
river and its tributaries present. And, moreover, I find cases where I
can prove, from other considerations, that streams of water (existing
and ancient rivers) have eaten out gorges quite as difficult to excavate
as any of the cafions of the West. So that,if we must admit that rivers
have done a work equally great in one case, all presumption is removed
against their doing the same in other cases. I have a great number of
facts which I hope to be able, if life be spared, to present to the public
on this subject; and I am very glad to add the cafions of Red river to
the number.

Before Professor Adams’s departure for the West Indies last winter, I
secured his report, hereto subjoined, upon the recent shells collected in
your expedition. It derives a melancholy interest from having been
among the last, if not the very last, of his scientific efforts, he haying
been cut off by yellow fever in January.

With this imperfect elucidation of the facts collected by you in your
laborious explorations, I subscribe myself,

With great respect,
Your obedient servant,
EDWARD HITCHCOCK.
Amurrst Cotiecs, June 5, 1853.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 179

REMARKS UPON THE GENERAL GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY
PASSED OVER BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO THE
SOURCES OF RED RIVER, UNDER COMMAND OF CAPTAIN R.
B. MARCY, U. S. A.: BY GEO. G. SHUMARD, M. D.

It is to be regretted that the main objects contemplated by the
expedition were of such a character as to allow of merely a partial
geological exploration. It was found necessary to traverse a large extent
of country in a limited period of time, so that not as many opportunities
were allowed for making minute and detailed sections of the strata as
could have been desired. However, it is believed that something has
been done towards elucidating the geology of a valuable and interesting
district of our country, which hitherto has received but little attention
from geologists.

We will first submit a brief account of the geological features of a
portion of Northwestern Arkansas, which will enable us to understand
more clearly the character of the deposites observed on the route
travelled by the party, and exhibit more satisfactorily the connection of
the cretaceous group with the older or paleozoic rocks. In Washing-
ton county we have a fine development of rocks belonging to the
carboniferous period, rising sometimes several hundred feet above the
water-level of Arkansas river. They consist of beds of dark-gray and
bluish-gray limestone, surmounted by heavy-bedded coarse and _fine-
grained quartzose sandstone. The ridges of highest elevation run nearly
north and south through the centre of the country, forming a geological
back-bone; the waters from one side flowing eastwardly into White
river, and on the other westwardly into Illinois river, both streams
being tributaries of the Arkansas.

Wherever the limestone forms the surface-rock, the soil is of excellent
character, and for productiveness is unsurpassed by any in the State;
but where the sandstone reaches the surface, the soil becomes too arena-
ceous, and is of inferior quality for agricultural purposes. The lime-
stone is generally highly charged with fossils, and, in many places, beds
of considerable thickness are almost entirely composed of the remains
of Crinoidea.

In lithological and paleontological characters it corresponds very
closely to the rocks of the superior division of the carboniferous system
of Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and Missouri. The fossils are usually
remarkably well preserved. The following are the most abundant and

180 APPENDIX D.—GHOLOGY.

characteristic species: Archimedipora archimedes, Agassizocrinus dacty-
liformis, Pentatematites sulcatus, Productus cora, P. punctatus, P. costa-
tus, Terebratula subtilita, and Terebratula Marcyi.* We have found
all these species associated together in Grayson county, Kentucky, near
Salem, Indiana, and at Chester and Kaskaskia, Illinois.

The line of junction between the sandstone and limestone is well
defined, there being an abrupt transition from the one into the other.
The sandstone has yielded but few fossils, and these only calamites and
ferns.

Veins of sulphuret of lead traverse the limestone at several pomts
in Washington county, and I have been informed that valuable beds of
iron ore occur here; workable seams of bituminous coal have also been
discovered at a number of localities in the county.

Proceeding in a southerly direction through the counties of Crawford
and Sebastian, the limestone, which, with few exceptions, constitutes the
surface-rock in Washington county, dips beneath the sandstone, and
the latter forms the entire mass of the hills, rising sometimes to. the
altitude of a thousand feet above the adjacent streams: it is, for the
most part, the prevailing rock the entire distance between Fort Smith
and Camp Belknap. The sandstone is often highly ferruginous, and
varies in color from light-gray to dark-brown. It exists in heavy mas-
sive beds, made up of coarse quartzose grains, with intercalations of
finer-grained sandstone, occasionally beautifully ripple-marked. It cor-
responds in its lithological features with that forming the Ozark range
of mountains.

In Sebastian county I found a few Calamites, Lepidodendra, and several
varieties of fossil ferns of the coal formation, but organic remaims are
by no means abundant. Bituminous coal exists in almost inexhaustible
quantities throughout the county. The seams vary in thickness from a
few inches to seven feet, and they lie in such a manner that they can
be wrought easily. Coal has also been discoyered at a number of
localities between Fort Smith and Fort Washita.

About a hundred miles southwest of Fort Smith we encountered an
outcrop of bluish-gray limestone, which extends across the country in
a southeasterly direction for the distance of about twenty miles; it
presents an average thickness of about ten feet, with a dip to the east of
30°. Its precise character could not be determined, as we were unable
to find any fossils.

* Figures and descriptions of the fossils of these beds will be found in the
appended report of Dr. B. F. Shumard on the paleontology of the expedition.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 181

Pursuing the same direction, twenty-five miles beyond is an outburst
of granite, which extends for the distance of twenty-six miles, with a
southerly bearing. This is the only example of rocks of igneous origin
to be met with between Forts Smith and Preston, and the rough and
rugged features of the country where it prevails, forms a striking con-
trast with the comparatively rounded outline of sandstone hills. The
rock is of a coarse texture, and varies in compactness in different portions
of the range; feldspar of the flesh-colored varieties predominates over
the other ingredients, In places the rocks would form an excellent and
durable building material, but in other portions of the range it crumbles
readily when exposed to the action of the weather.

We observed numerous veins of quartz traversing the granite in
various directions, and, at some points, dykes of compact greenstone
porphyry. Saline springs were found not unfrequently issuing from the
base of the range, and the waters in one or two instances were found
so strongly impregnated with saline matter, as to induce the belief that
they might be worked with profit.

Passing this range, the sandstone again reappears, and constitutes
the prevailing rock to within a short distance of Fort Washita, where
it disappears, and is succeeded by strata of the cretaceous period.

From this point the cretaceous rocks were found to extend unin-
terruptedly until we reached the southwestern boundary of the Cross-
Timbers, in Texas. From the best information I was able to procure, it
constitutes the prevailing formation from Fort Washita in the direction
of Fort Towson for upwards of a hundred miles, with an average
breadth of fifty miles. It forms part of that extensive belt of cretaceous
strata that extends from Georgia to Texas, and which, from the charac-
ter of its fossil fauna, is now regarded as the equivalent of the upper
chalk of England, and with that division of the cretaceous group to
which D’Orbigny gives the name of l’Htage Senonien, (Prodrome de
Palzontologie, tome II, page 669.) Wherever sections of the strata
were to be seen they presented the following characters: grayish-yellow
sandstone, with intercalations of blue, yellow, and ash-colored clays,
and beds of white and bluish-white limestone. The limestone reposes
on the clays and sandstones. At some points it attains the thickness of
a hundred feet; while at others it is quite thin, and sometimes even
entirely wanting. It is usually soft and friable, and liable to disintegrate
rapidly when exposed to the action of the weather. These cretaceous
rocks are often full of fossils. At Fort Washita the layers are crowded
with Ananchytes, Hemiaster, Nucleolites, Ammonites, Ostrea, Pecten, &c.,
descriptions and figures of which will be found in Dr. B. F. Shumard’s

182 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

report on the paleontology of the expedition. We saw here some
specimens of ammonites several feet in diameter, and weighing between
four and five hundred pounds. On Red river, twenty-six*miles from
Fort Washita, the sandstone of the cretaceous group supports about’
twenty-five feet of ash-colored calcareous loam, which, on inspection,
was found to contain terrestrial and fluviatile shells of the genera Lymnea,
Physa, Planorbis, Pupa, and Helix, the whole resembling species which
we have observed in the loam at New Harmony, Indiana, and elsewhere
in the Mississippi Valley, which Mr. Lyell, during his visit to this
country, recognised as the equivalent of the loess of the Rhine.

The geological formation, as developed in the vicinity of Camp
Belknap, consists of nearly horizontal strata of fine-grained sandstone,
shale, and soft, drab-colored, non-fossiliferous limestone, whose relative
positions correspond with strata of the same character largely developed
between Fort Washita and Fort Smith. On the surface were in many
places strewn fragments of a reddish-gray, igneous rock, containing a
large per-centage of carbonate and oxide of iron. From the frequent
indications of the presence of that metal in various localities of this
region, it is not improbable that this may become hereafter an extensive
and profitable field of mining enterprise. Recently a number of seams
of bituminous coal, varying in thickness from two to four feet, as well
as the characteristic fossil ferns of the carboniferous era, have been
discovered.

The following section, taken about one mile from the post, may give
a better idea of the formation :

1. Subsoil arenaceous, and of a red color; thickness from three to
ten feet.

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating ; four feet thick.

3. Seams of bituminous coal, from two to four feet thick.

4. Fine-grained sandstone, of a yellowish gray color, and containing
fossil ferns; thickness variable.

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone; thickness unknown.

The water obtained from springs in this vicinity frequently contains
iron in solution. I have been informed that in a few instances chloride
of sodium has been detected in it.

May 3.—Formation the same as at Camp Belknap. Observed,
strewn over the surface, large quantities of iron-stone; soil and subsoil
arenaceous, and deeply tinged with oxide of iron.

May 4.—Saw a number of horizontal layers of coarsely laminated
sandstone; between the laminations were observed a large number of
ripple-marks. Soil good, and of a dark color; subsoil, in some places,
arenaceous, in others argillaceous, and of a deep-red color.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 183

May 5.—For the first six miles the surface became gradually more
elevated. Here, and elsewhere to-day, we met with a number of hori-
zontal layers of coarse-grained and highly ferruginous sandstone, which
was more or less laminated, and highly embossed with ripple-marks.
In many places we met with extensive deposites of porous and dark-
colored igneous rock, containing a large per-centage of oxide of iron.
The surface was everywhere strewn with drift, mostly composed of
quartz, greenstone porphyry, and granite. Saw a number of conical
hills, varying in height from ten to seventy-five feet, and composed of
horizontal layers of sandstone, of the same character as that first met
with to-day. Owing to the rapid disintegration of the sandstone, the
hills are gradually crumbling away. In many places we found a few
loose fragments of sandstone, intermixed with sand, the only indication
left of the previous existence of many of them. In this manner has a
levelling process gone on for ages, which, if not interfered with, will
ultimately tend to the removal of the various inequalities of the surface
of the prairies. Soil good; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep-red color:
this mixing in the form of sediment with the water, imparts to it a red
color and disagreeable taste. From the north branch of the Witchita
I collected a number of bivalve shells of the genus Uno.

May 6.—Sandstone and drift the same as yesterday. Saw a num-
ber of bluff banks, varying in height from ten to fifty feet. They were
composed of red loam, the relative position of which was found to be
below that of the sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as we passed
yesterday.

May 7.—¥ormation the same. Drift appears to be gradually be-
coming more abundant.

May 8.—During the day we had frequent opportunities of observing
the sandstone and red loam. Their relative positions were the same as
before, and dipped in various directions at angles of from one to three
degrees. Saw a number of small boulders, composed of granite and
greenstone porphyry.

May 9.—Did not move from camp. In the afternoon I explored a
few miles along the banks of the Big Witchita. The geological forma-
tion, as there developed, consisted of finely laminated, soft, ferruginous
sandstone, interstratified with red clay, together with drift, which last
was much coarser than any previously observed. Soil good; subsoil
loamy.

May 11.—Formation the same as before. Found a number of speci-
mens of peroxide of iron.

184 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

May 12.—Red river, as observed to-day, runs through a thick bed of
red loam, which, mixing with the water, imparts to it highly charac-
teristic red sedimentary properties. Its bed was composed of fine sand.
After travelling about six miles we came to a small creek with high
bluff banks, near the base of which I observed a number of specimens
of green and blue copper ores. Associated with it, as a matrix, was a
porous and dark-colored igneous rock, containing disseminated parti-
cles of green copper ore. At this point I had an opportunity of ob-
serving the aqueous strata, from which I obtained the following see-
tion:

1. Black argillaceous subsoil; six feet thick.

2. Soft fine-grained sandstone, of a grayish color; five feet thick.

3. Red and blue clay; from six to ten feet thick.

These strata presented an easterly dip of nearly two degrees. I saw
during the day large quantities of drift and a few small boulders, com-
posed of granite, quartz, and greenstone porphyry. In a few hours we
arrived at Cache creek, which runs between high bluff banks composed
of red clay; its bottom was thickly strewn with large, angular frag-
ments of quartz, greenstone porphyry, granite, and hornblende rock.
Within a short distance from the creek we found a small spring of clear
water, which was strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas.
Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep-red color.

May 14.—Did not move from camp. In the evening I rode to the
junction of Cache creek and Red river, near which point I observed a
stratum of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone; in some places it was
interstratified with red clay, and presented a south-southeasterly dip of
three degrees, (see Section No. 3.) Saw scattered over the surface a
number of small boulders of the same composition as those of yesterday.
Soil black and fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

May 15.—Did not move from camp; tested the water of Cache creek,
and found it strongly alkaline. Its temperature was 75° F.

May 16.—Passed to-day a number of long, low ridges, presenting on
one side a gradual slope towards the prairie-level; on the other, abrupt
precipitous terminations. They were for the most part composed of dark-
colored scoriaceous rock, containing a moderate per-centage of copper
ore. About 8 o’clock we came to a small creek, near which I observed
a deposite of soft granite, which appeared to be undergoing rapid dis-
integration. The banks of the creek were composed of horizontal
layers of finely laminated sandstone, deeply tinged with copper, and
resting upon a base of red indurated clay. Saw to-day large quantities

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 185

of drift, containing small boulders, composed, as before, of greenstone
porphyry, quartz, and granite; soil and subsoil arenaceous.

May 17.—Formation the same as on yesterday ; saw strewn over the
surface a large quantity of reddish-brown and black calcareous rock,
containing carbonate of copper and small crystals of calcareous spar.
From the drift (which appears to be becoming more abundant and its
particles less rounded) I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, and
carnelian. Soil and subsoil arenaceous, and of a reddish color.

May 18.—Saw a number of deposites of soft, coarse granite, which
appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The surface presented
large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous rock, composed
principally of silex and carbonate of lime; soil and subsoil arenaceous.

May 20.—Observed several clear springs bubbling up from beneath
the surface. Formation the same as before; soil and subsoil arenaceous.

May 21.—Met to-day with several sections of finely laminated sand-
stone of the same character as that before mentioned, with the exception
that the different laminz were thickly marked with small circular spots of
a green and yellow color. In several places I found it interstratified with
red clay. Near our encampment a fine section, showing an anticlinal
axis, the strata dipping east and west at an angle of three degrees,
exposed itself; over the surface were strewn large quantities of dark-
colored igneous rock of the same character as that seen on the 18th
instant. The drift was less abundant than before; soil and subsoil
arenaceous.

May 22.—The surface was strewn in many places with detritus com-
posed of greenstone porphyry and granite; soil and subsoil arenaceous.

May 23.—Did not move from camp; in the evening I explored Otter
creek, which at this point runs between bluff banks composed of red clay.
Its bed was thickly covered with drift, from which I obtained a number
of agates and two small specimens of bluish-yellow quartz, each con-
taining a small particle of gold. By digging a few inches below the
driit, I reached a deposite of black ferruginous sand, which, upon being
stirred, emitted a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. From the
ereek I obtained a number of univalve and bivalve shells; the latter
principally of the genus Unio.

Captain Marcy having to-day visited several of the mountains, pre-
sented me with a number of specimens of soft granite of a reddish-
brown color, and of which the mountains appeared to be composed.

May 25.—Remained in camp. ‘This afternoon I measured with a
thermometer the temperature of Otter creek, and found it to be 72° F.

186 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

Immediately adjoining the creek the soil is good and very productive;
but at a little distance from it, it is barren and sandy.

May 26.—To-day we passed a number of sand-hills, varying in hol
from ten to thirty feet. The only rocks met with were a few small
boulders, composed of quartz and greenstone.

May 2'7—The surface was in many places composed of detritus of
granite, quartz, and greenstone; saw to-day a number of boulders,
mostly composed of hard granite, and presenting smooth and polished
surfaces. The largest was about fifteen feet in circumference, and would
weigh ‘probably three or four thousand pounds. We frequently en-
countered local deposites of red scoriaceous rock. Captain McClellan
having visited one of the mountains, presented me with a specimen of
gray calcareous sandstone, which, as he informed me, he obtained from
a horizontal stratum of the same, situated within a few feet of the base
of the mountain.

Thus far about twelve of the Witchita mountains have been ex-
amined, and have been found to present a nearly uniform appearance
and structure. Composed of fine granite of various degrees of hardness
and color, they rise abruptly from a smooth and nearly level plain to
the height of eight or nine hundred feet. Many of them are isolated
and of an irregular conical shape, while others are grouped together in
small clusters, and are more or less rounded. At a distance they ap-
peared to be smooth, but upon a nearer approach their surfaces were
found to be quite rough, and presenting the appearance of loose rock
thrown confusedly together. In many places the granite was observed
occupying its original position, and was variously traversed by joints
and master-joints, which, intersecting each other at right-angles, gave
to the mass somewhat of a cuboidal structure. Soil rich, and from
three to four feet thick; subsoil argillaceous and of a red color.

May 28.—Did not move from camp. In the evening I explored a
short distance up and down Otter creek; its bed is here composed of
horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, containing green and
yellow spots of the same character as those noticed on the 21st instant.

May 29.—Passed a number of the mountains, several of which I
ascended and found composed of hard granite, variously traversed by
veins of greenstone porphyry and yellow quartz; the last containing
small scales of mica. The sides of the mountains frequently presented
lofty precipices, one of which was divided from top to bottom by a vein
of greenstone nearly perpendicular, and about twenty inches thick. I
observed no change in the character of the adjoining prairie, except a
few local deposites of drift and detritus, from which I collected specimens

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 187

of chalcedony, agate, and jasper. No rock of any description was
observed at a greater distance than a few feet from the base of the
mountains. Soil thick and fertile; subsoil loamy.

May 30.—The mountains did not differ materially in appearance or
structure from those before observed; at a distance, a few of them
appeared to present a columnar structure, but upon a nearer approach
this was found to be owing to divisional plains, or master-joints, with
weather-worn and rounded edges. I observed to-day a number of clear
springs; the water of several being tasted, was found to be alkaline.

In the prairie we observed several circular elevations, varying from
one hundred to one hundred and thirty yards in diameter, and ascending

In some places to the height of three or four hundred feet above the
general level. Upon examination, their mineralogical composition was
found to be the same as that of the neighboring mountains. Within a
few feet of one of these, a small ravine exposed to view a horizontal
stratum of soft ferruginous sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as on
yesterday.

May 31.—The mountains presented the same general appearance as
on yesterday. From their surface were exhibited a large number of
veins, varying in thickness from an inch to a foot and a half, and com-
posed of greenstone, quartz, and hornblende. The prairie was here and
there dotted with a number of conoidal elevations, varying in height
from twenty to one hundred feet. In composition they agreed in every
respect with the neighboring mountains, with which in origin they
appeared to be cotemporaneous. From the drift I collected specimens
of fossil-wood. The water of springs issuing from the mountains I
found, upon test, to be alkaline.

June 1.—Red river as observed to-day runs between low bluff banks,
composed of red clay. Its bed was in some places thickly strewn with
large detached masses of granite, all presenting a highly water-worn
appearance, and seeming to have been derived from a neighboring
mountain. Soil and subsoil the same asybefore.

June 2.—Immediately upon leaving the Witchita mountains, we lost
all traces of drift and other igneous rocks. Red river as observed to-day
runs between high bluff banks, composed of horizontal layers of red,
yellow, and blue clay, and finely laminated sandstone; the latter being
interstiatified with thin seams of saccharoid gypsum, (see Section No. 4.)
About a mile from the river, we observed two conical hills—one fifty
and the other eighty feet in height—composed of horizontal layers of
sandstone, interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From them I
obtained specimens of selenite. Soil and subsoil loamy.

188 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

June 3.—To-day we came to a range of high bluffs about six miles
in length, and extending in a direction nearly parallel with the river.
At a distance they resembled a long line of fortification ; upon examina-
tion they were found to be composed of horizontal layers of red and blue
clay, thickly interstratified with snow-white gypsum, (see Section No. 5.)
These bluffs appeared to be rapidly yielding to the weather: along
their base were thickly strewn large cuboidal masses of gypsum—some
ten feet in diameter—that appeared to have been but recently detached
from a stratum of the same near their summits. In the blue clay 1
observed a thin seam of carbonate of copper. The gypsum was also
in a few places slightly tinged with the same metal. In a southerly
direction, and at the distance of about fifteen miles, we observed another
range of gypsum bluffs: they appeared to run in a qirection parallel
with those already described. The intervening country was very rough
and broken. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

June 4.—Passed a number of bluffs of the same composition as those
observed yesterday. The surface during the greater portion of the
march was whitened by gypsum, which was always found occupying its
position above the red clay. In the evening I visited a small hill, situ-
ated about three miles from camp, and succeeded in discovering a thin
seam of copper ore, as well as large beds of selenite. Soil and subsoil
the same as on yesterday.

June 5.—The country travelled over to-day was mostly composed of
sand-hills, varying in height from ten to sixty feet. On the middle
branch of Red river we saw long ranges of bluffs, which, upon examina-
tion, proved to be of the same character and composition as those seen
on the 3d instant. Soil and subsoil arenaceous.

June 6.—To-day we passed a number of bluffs composed of red clay ;
I did not observe any gypsum in their composition, As we progressed,
the country gradually became more elevated. Here, for the first time
since leaving the Witchita mountains, we met with large quantities of
drift, composed principally of quartz and mica-schist. On Red river we
saw a fine section, fully exposed, showing a horizontal sub-stratum of”
coarse-grained sandstone, overlaid by drift; the latter forty feet thick.

June 7.—Formation the same as on yesterday.

June 8.—Passed a number of ravines, the sides of most of which
were composed of red clay. At about 8 o’clock we came to a*small
eminence in the prairie, near which I observed an outerop of grayish-
yellow sandstone, presenting a dip of forty degrees to the west. The
surface was thickly covered with drift. I saw a numberof boulders
composed of coarse and fine conglomerate, the largest of which meas-

APPENDIX D.—-GEOLOGY. 189

ured fifteen feet in diameter. At 9 o’clock we came to a small creek,
with high banks composed of gray calcareous loam, from which latter
I obtained a number of shells, characteristic of the loess formation:
Helix plebeium, Succinea elongata, &e. Soil barren and sandy ; subsoil
in some places argillaceous, in others arenaceous.

June 9.—Passed to-day a number of small ravines, the sides of which
were composed of red clay, overlaid by sandstone and drift. The surface
was in many places covered with sand-hills, varying from ten to fifty
feet in height. About 8 o’clock we came to an outcrop of finely
laminated red ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the
northeast of about thirty degrees, (see Section No. 4.) Soil arena-
ceous; subsoil in many places argillaceous.

June 10.—¥ormation the same as on yesterday. We frequently
found the sandstone’ exposed and exhibiting evidences of violent disturb-
ance, the strata being variously fractured, and in some places upheaved
in such a manner as to stand almost perpendicular. With the exception
of the creek bottoms, the soil was sandy and barren; subsoil the same
as before.

June 11.—The surface to-day presented nothing but a succession of
hills composed of blown sand, varying in height from ten to one hundred
feet. No sandstone or drift was anywhere observed.

June 12.—To-day I observed large quantities of drift, of the same
composition as beforé; through it were seattered small boulders, com-
posed of quartz and mica-schist. The surface was in many places
covered with loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The particles com-
posing the drift were frequently thickly coated with the same substance.
Soil and subsoil arenaceous.

June 13.—Did not leave camp.

June 14.—Drift and limestone the same as before. About 7 o'clock
we came to a small ravine, the sides of which exposed a horizontal
stratum of coarse-grained sandstone twenty feet thick. From the drift
I obtained specimens of agates, chalcedony, and fossil-wood. Soil and
* subsoil the same as before.

June 15.—The country travelled over to-day was everywhere divided
by ridges and ravines; the former sometimes sloping gradually on either
side—at others presenting abrupt precipitous terminations. Besides
these, a large number of sand-hills, varying in height from twenty to
one hundred feet, were observed. The sandstone was frequently exposed.
In a few places I found it interstratified with coarse conglomerate ; saw
a number of small boulders, composed mostly of greenstone, greenstone
porphyry, and trachyte. In the bed of the river I founda large mass

190 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

of black scoriae and several other specimens of volcanic rocks. Drift
the same as on yesterday ; soil and subsoil arenaceous.

June 16.—The surface was broken, and presented a number of e}-
hills. Saw to-day large quantities of drift, which did not differ in com-
position from that previously noticed. At about eight o’clock we came
to a long range of high blufis, which, as we afterwards ascertained,
marked the borders of the “Llano estacado.” They were composed of
horizontal layers of drift, sandstone, and yellow clay, (see Section No. 7,)
all of which seemed to be rapidly yielding to the weather. At the
base of the blufis I observed a few small boulders composed of green-
stone porphyry. Soil and subsoil sandy.

June 20.—During the first part of our route we travelled over a hilly
and broken region, consisting for the most part of a succession of sand-
hills, varying from ten to one hundred feet in height. At the distance
of five miles we reached a gradual ascent, which soon led us to the
summit of a high and slightly-rolling plain: over its surface were
scattered a great many fragments of white carbonate of lime, as well as
drift. From the latter I obtained specimens of agate, chalcedony, &c.
During the day I had frequent opportunities of observing the formation,
which uniformly consisted of drift, interstratified with horizontal layers
of red and yellow clay. Sometimes the drift exhibited a calcareous
coating, the same as before described.

June 21.—Passed to-day a number of drift-hills, varying in height
from twenty to one hundred feet. The surface was very much divided
by ravines, with perpendicular sides, composed mostly of red clay, and
varying in depth from ten to fifty feet. Near our encampment I ob-
served a horizontal section of yellow loam, coarse conglomerate, and
red clay; the last thickly reticulated with gypsum, and overlaid by a
terminating stratum of the same, (see Section No. 8.) Soil and subsoil
arenaceous.

June 22.—Passed a large number of drift-hills). The country, as on
yesterday, was very rough, and much divided by ravines, some of which
were fifty feet deep. Their sides were generally composed of red ciay,
overlaid by drift; in a few instances they exposed seams of gypsum.
From the drift I obtained specimens of fossil-wood, agate, jasper, and a
few water-worn fossil shells of the genus Osérea. Soil and subsoil the
same as before.

June 23.—To-day we observed the gypsum frequently exposed. It
did not differ in character from that previously described, and was
always found overlying the red clay. Soil and subsoil arenaceous.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 191

June 24.—The surface was in many places thickly strewn with loose
fragments of white carbonate of lime. About seven o’clock we reached,
after a gradual ascent, a high, level, and very fertile plain, from which
we obtained an extensive view of the surrounding country, which was very
hilly and divided by numerous ravines. The plain at its termination
presented a long line of high bluffs, composed of horizontal strata of
drift, finely laminated sandstone, white limestone, conglomerate, gyp-
sum, and red and yellow clay, (see Section No. 9.) The red clay was
thickly interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From the drift I
obtained specimens of agates, fossil-wood, jasper, and chalcedony. Soil
and subsoil the same as before.

June 25.—The country travelled over to-day was very hilly and
broken, being much divided by long, narrow ravines, with nearly per-
pendicular sides, composed of red clay—some of them being over one
hundred feet deep. In many places we were surrounded by high blufis.
The drift was found to be unusually abundant—in some places fifty feet
thick, and much coarser than before met with. Atabout eleven o’clock
we came in sight of the valley of the Dogtown river. On either side
it was bounded by long lines of bluffs, in composition similar to those
previously noticed, and varying in height from one hundred to one hun-
dred and fifty feet. From the drift was obtained specimens of chalce-
dony, agates, silicified wood, and jasper, besides a large number of shells
of the same character as those observed on the 22d instant. The beds
of the different streams crossed were covered with black ferruginous
sand. Soil good, consisting of a rich black mould; subsoil argillaceous.

June 26.—For the first few miles the country was hilly and very
much divided by ravines, some of which were two hundred feet in depth.
The strata exposed by them were invariably found to consist of hori-
zontal layers of red clay, gypsum, and drift, each occupying the same
relative position as shown in Section No. 9.

June 27.—Formation the same.as on yesterday. At ten o’clock we
came to Dogtown river, the bed of which was composed of yellow
sand, intermixed in some places with red clay, and covered with small
shining particles of gypsum. I observed in the drift large quantities of
red and yellow jasper. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

June 28.—Saw a large number of drift-hills, varying in height from
fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. After travelling a few miles we
again came to the borders of the “ Llano estacado,” which here presented
a long line of bluffs six hundred feet high, and composed of horizontal
layers of drift and sandstone, interstratified with white limestone. From

192 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

the base of the bluffs to the river, the country presented a gradual slope
of four hundred feet.

Section No. 10 is intended to represent the geological formation from
the river level to the summit of the bluffs; the inferior strata, or those
between the base of the bluffs and the river, having been ascertained»
from numerous observations, to consist of gypsum and red clay. From
the drift I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, granite, and ob-
sidian.

July 4.—The formation as observed to-day consisted of red clay,
gypsum, and drift: they were all found occupying the same relative
positions as before. Soil mostly fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

July 5.—Observed in the prairie a circular outcrop of finely lami-
nated calcareous sandstone about three hundred feet in diameter, and
presenting a quaquaversal dip of forty degrees. Over the prairie were
strewn a number of small boulders, variously composed of mica-schist,
greenstone, and quartz. Red clay, gypsum, and drift, the same as before.
Soil and subsoil arenaceous.

July 6.—Observed a number of hills, varying in height from fifty to
one hundred feet; in form they resembled truncated cones, and were
composed of horizontal Jayers of sandstone and red clay. General
formation the same as before. Soil in some places fertile; subsoil
argillaceous.

July '7—With the exception of the drift, which appears to be rapidly
diminishing in thickness, the formation did not differ from that pre-
viously observed. The surface was everywhere whitened with beds of
gypsum and loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The former varied
in thickness from five to fifteen feet ; mit were observed large quantities
of selenite.

July 8.—The formation was mostly composed of red clay, with a
few local deposites of soft carbonate of lime and dark-colored cellular
sandstone. Saw no drift or gypsum to-day. Soil fertile} subsoil
argillaceous.

July 9.—Again came in sight of the Witchita mountains: the one
nearest to us presented the form of a truncated cone, with an irregular
basin-shaped depression upon the summit. The formation everywhere
consisted of red clay; in a few places it was overlaid by thin seams of
gypsum containing selenite. I observed a number of local deposites of
white carbonate of lime. Like the gypsum, it was found overlying
the red clay. On our route we passed four conical hills from fifty to
seventy feet high, and composed of red clay, interstratified with dark-

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 193

colored porous sandstone. Observed no drift to-day. Soil dark, and
fertile; subsoil argillaceous. '

July 10.—Formation the same as on yesterday. Soil dark and fertile ;
subsoil argillaceous.

July 11.—Formation the same as before.

July 12.—To-day we met with no gypsum. At about 9 o’clock we
came to Otter creek; its bed is here, as well as elsewhere, composed of
finely laminated sandstone, containing small circular spots of a greenish
color. In many places this was covered to the depth of a few inches
with drift and detritus. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

July 14.—Renewed the observations of May 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th,
and 27th.

July 15.—To-day we passed a number of the Witchita mountains,
but observed neither in their composition nor general appearance any-
thing different from what had been previously noticed. Near the base
of one of them I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of sandstone,
underlaid by red clay. The ground was in several places covered with
loose fragments of gypsum, some of which were found to contain slight
traces of copper. In one of the creeks I observed a small deposite of
black ferruginous sand. Soil black and fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

July 16.—The only difference presented by the mountains seen to-
day, from those previously observed, consisted in the greater number
and size of the quartz veins: many of them were nearly perpendicular,
and extended from near the base of the mountains to their summits;
while others, pursuing a more or less serpentine course, frequently inter-
sected each other at right-angles. The largest was highly ferruginous,
presented a more or less cellular structure, and was nearly three feet
wide. A few feet from the base of one of the mountains I observed a
horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone, of a yellowish color,
and including in its composition small angular fragments of granite of
the same character as that of the neighboring mountains. To-day I
examined several of the head branches of Cache creek. Their beds
were thickly strewn with large angular fragments of quartz, greenstone,
and porphyry. In each of them I observed large quantities of black
ferruginous sand. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous,

July 17.—In a number of places the sandstone was exposed ; it did
not differ in character and composition from that seen the day before.
In one place the strata, still preserving their horizontal character, pre-
sented abruptly to the side of a mountain. Many of the mountains
presented a marked difference in character and composition from any
that had been previously observed: instead of displaying a rough and

194 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.

broken exterior, they were more or less rounded, and exhibited a gradual
slope to the prairie-level, while the granitic structure almost entirely
disappeared, its place being occupied by that of fine porphyry of a
reddish color. Scattered over the prairie were observed a great many
fragments of granite, greenstone porphyry, and quartz. The beds of
the different creeks were in many places covered with black ferrugmous
sand, as well as large fragments of quartz, porphyry, and hornblende.
Soil black and very fertile; subsoil argillaceous.

July 18.—The mountains presented the same appearance and struc-
ture as on yesterday. At about 8 o’clock we arrived at Cache creek;
its bed was thickly strewn with black ferruginous sand and large frag-
ments of igneous rock. From the water’s edge rose abruptly a long
line of smooth perpendicular cliffs, varying in height from three to four
hundred feet, and having in some places a slight columnar structure,
(see Section No. 11.) Upon examination they were found to be com-
posed mostly of fine porphyry of a reddish color, which was traversed
by parallel and nearly perpendicular veins of cellular quartz, varying in
thickness from two to three feet. Upon its exterior the quartz presented
a deep iron-rust color; but when recently fractured, it exhibited various
shades of gray and brown, together with small shining particles of
sulphuret of iron. Soil fertile, and in some places three feet thick;
subsoil argillaceous.

July 19.—I spent the greater part of the day in exploring Cache
creek. About one mile below our present encampment I came to the
termination of the cliffs. A short distance below this I observed a
nearly horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone, fifty feet
thick, and including in its composition fragments of igneous rock of the
same character as that composing the cliffs; the intermediate space
being oecupied by red clay, which, as before, appeared to underlie the
sandstone, (see Section No. 11.)

July 20.—Two miles below our camp of Jast evening I observed a
section eomposed of horizontal layers of gray sandstone, containing in
its composition small fragments of igneous rock. Six miles from this we
struck a seam of gypsum, varying in thickness from six to twelve inches.
Soil fertile; subsoil composed of red and yellow clay.

July 21.—During the day we met with frequent exposures of the
sandstone and gypsum. They presented, however, nothing different
from what has already been described. Soil and subsoil the same as
on yesterday.

July 22.—Formation the same as on yesterday.

July 28.—Did not move from camp.

APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 195

July 24.—The sandstone appears to be gradually becoming more
abundant, while the red clay is less frequently observed than before.
Saw no gypsum to-day. Soil fertile, and in some places six feet deep ;
subsoil composed of yellow clay.

July 25.—Passed a number of small conical hills composed of red
clay, overlaid by sandstone. The latter was highly ferruginous, and con-
tained nodular concretions of iron. Soil and subsoil the same as on
yesterday.

July 26.—Formation the same as before.

July 27—At about eight o’clock we came to an extensive outcrop
of bluish-gray, non-fossiliferous limestone, which presented in many
places a highly crystalline structure. Its relative position was found to
be below that of the sandstone. Passed a number of hills, varying in
height from one to two hundred feet, and composed of limestone, overlaid
by finely laminated sandstone. Soil fertile; subsoil the same as before.

July 28.—To-day the sandstone disappeared almost entirely, its place
being occupied by limestone of nearly the same character as that en-
countered yesterday. Soil and subsoil the same as before.

July 29.—Remained in camp.

July 30.—To-day we again observed the limestone in great abund-
ance. It presented nothing different in character from that previously
described. The sandstone and red clay were also in many places largely
developed. Soil very fertile; subsoil the same as before. Started from
camp at four o’clock in the afternoon. For the first few miles we found
the sandstone largely developed ; after passing which, we came to an out-
crop of limestone of the same character as that previously noticed. It
presented itself even with the surface at an angle of thirty degrees, and
was over a mile wide. Immediately beyond this we came to a deposite
of coarse granite of a reddish color, and variously traversed by veins of
quartz. This remarkable formation (as I have been informed) extends
about twenty-six miles in an easterly and westerly direction, and is
nearly six miles broad. Throughout its entire extent it is said to present
the same character, and is everywhere surrounded by aqueous strata. I
observed to-day in one of the creeks several boulders, composed of milky
quartz; the largest was four feet in diameter. Soil and subsoil the
same as before described.

July 31.—Shortly after starting this morning we again struck the
limestone formation, which continued to be largely developed during
the remainder of the distance to Fort Washita. In it I observed a large
number of the characteristic fossils of the cretaceous period.

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APPENDIX E.

PALHONTOLOGY.

DESCRIPTION OF THE SPECIES OF CARBONIFEROUS AND CRE-
TACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED: BY B. F. SHUMARD, M. D.

Tames an det) MA tie &
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Dad Te

APPENDIX E.

PALZZONTOLOGY.

BY B. F. SHUMARD, M. D.

FOSSILS OF THE CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM.

CRINOIDEA.

CYATHOCRINUS GRANULIFERUS, Yandell and Shum., mss.

Patzxontoroey, Pl. —, fig. —.

The collection contains a single pentagonal plate of this beautiful
encrinite, a perfect specimen of which we found several years since, in
the superior carboniferous strata near the summit of Muldrow’s Hill, in
Kentucky. The costal plate from Arkansas exhibits grapules regularly
dispersed in rows over the surface, which radiate from the centre to the
sides of the pentagon.

Té occurs in Washington county, Arkansas, in grayish earthy lime-
stone, associated with Productus punctatus, Terebratula subtilita, and
Spirifer striatus.

AGASSIZOCRINUS DACTYLIFORMIS, Troost, mss.

Patxontoioey, Pl. 1, fig. 7.

Cup conical, composed of three series of pieces; plates massive,
smooth, moderately convex; column none; pelvis composed of five
pieces, quadrangular, greatest width near the upper edges; second series
of pieces five, pentagonal, length and breadth about equal; length of
pelvis three lines, greatest width five lines; length and breadth of second
series of pieces about three lines,

200 APPENDIX E.—PALEZONTOLOGY.

We regret that the specimens of this crinoid from Arkansas are all
imperfect, consisting only of detached portions of the cup. It is a
fossil peculiar to the western and southwestern States, and eminently
characteristic of the superior members of the carboniferous strata, occur-
ring in some localities very abundantly. The genus is remarkable, from
the fact of its being destitute of a column, in which respect it differs
from all known carboniferous crinoids. In young individuals, the di-
vision of the pelvis into five pieces is well marked; but in adult age
they are usually firmly anchylosed, and often all traces of sutures are
obliterated. In the centre of the pelvis we observe a small cylindrical
tube running nearly its whole length, closed below, but communicating
above with the cavity of the cup by a small opening. This structure,
probably the nucleus of a column, is only visible when the plates are
separated.

It is associated with the preceding species, in the carboniferous beds
of Washington county, Arkansas.

PENTREMITES FLOREALIS, Say.

Pentremites florealis, Say, 1820, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sciences, IV, 295,
Pentatrematites florealis, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 33, taf. i.
fio. 1—-4, taf. il, fig. 8.

This well-known species-is quite common in Washington and Craw-
ford counties, Arkansas. The specimens furnished by my brother are
rather more globose than those from localities in Kentucky, Indiana, and
Illinois.

PENTREMITES SuLCATUS, F. Roemer.

Pentatrematites sulcatus, F. Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 34,
taf. iii, fig. 10, a—c.—Zd. Lethaea Geognostica, taf. iv, fig. 8, a, b.

We have some doubts as to whether this pentremite is entitled te rank
as a distinct species, or whether it should be regarded as merely a
variety of P. florealis, which varies considerably in different localities.
The form under consideration has generally been referred to P. globosus,
Say, by western geologists, from which, however, it is quite different.
Mr. Say’s description of P. globosus was drawn from a specimen which
was brought from Bath, England.

It is associated with the preceding species in Washington county,
Arkansas.

APPENDIX E.—PALAONTOLOGY. 201

BRYOZOA.

ARCHIMEDIPORA ARCHIMEDES, Lesueur.

Patzxonrtovoey, Pl. 1, fig. 6.

Retepora archimedes, Lesueur, 1842, Amer. Jour. Science, XLIT, 19,
fig. 2.
Archimedipora archimedes, D’Orbig. 1849, Prod. de Palzont. I, 102.

A fossil peculiar to the carboniferous strata of the western and south-
western States. The associate fossils are Pentremites florealis, Pro-
ductus punctatus, Spirifer striatus, and Orthis Michelini. D’Orbigny,
in his Prodrome de Paleontologie, cites this fossil from rocks of the
Devonian period, in Kentucky. ‘This is an error; we believe it has not
been found lower in the series than the encrinital limestones which
repose on the fine-grained micaceous sandstones of the knobs of Ken-
tucky and Tennessee. :

It occurs in dark-grayish carboniferous limestone, in Washington
county, Arkansas.

BRACHIOPODA.

Propuctus puncratus, Martin.*

PatzonrToxoey, Pl. 1, fig. 5, and Pl. 2, fig. 1.

This Productus has a wide geographical, as well as vertical, range in
the United States; it is also widely distributed throughout Europe. In
this country we find it commencing with the earliest carboniferous
deposites, and extending through all the limestones of this system to the
coal measures.

Figure 1 of plate 2 represents the ventral valve of a specimen from
Washington county, Arkansas; and figure 5 of plate 2, an individual
showing the hinge line and the form of the beak.

* For synonyms and references, vide Koninck’s Monog. du Genre Productus
et Chonetes, p. 123.

202 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.

Propvuctus cora, D’Orbig.

Prod. cora, D’Orbig., 1842, Palzont. Voy. dans ]’Amer. Merid., p. 55,
pl. 5, fig. 8, 9, 10.

P. tenuestriatus, Verneuil, 1845, Geol. Russ. et Ural., vol. 2, p. 260,
pl. 16, fig. 6.

P. cora, Koninck, 1847, Monog. du Genre Prod. et Chonetes, p. 50,
pl. iv, a, b, et pl. v, fig. 2, a—d.

The specimens from Arkansas are all imperfect, yet they are plainly
referable to this species. It is one of the most characteristic fossils of
the carboniferous beds of Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. It
occurs in Washington and Crawford counties, in gray sub-crystalline
limestone.

Provvuctus costatus, Sowerby.*
PatzxonTotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 2.

This Productus occurs with the preceding species, in Washington
county, Arkansas, and, like it, has a very extended geographical range
in this country and Europe.

TEREBRATULA SUBTILITA, Hall.
PatmxonTotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 8.

Terebratula subtilita, Hall, Stansbury’s Expedition to Great Salt Lake,
409, pl. xi, fig. 1, a—b, 2, a—e.

This shell is very common in the superior members of the carbonife-
rous formation in Illinois, Indiana, and Kentucky, where it usually is
found with Archimedipora archimedes, Pentremites florealis, and Pro-
ductus punctatus. Its vertical range being rather limited, it constitutes
one of our most useful guides in studying the relative position of the
various members of the carboniferous strata. This shell is very variable
in its characters, so that we are liable to multiply species from its varie-
ties, unless a number of specimens are under examination. Some indi-
viduals are very much inflated; the dorsal valve exhibits a profound

* For synonyms and references see Koninck’s Monog. du Gen. Prod. et Cho-
netes, p. 92.

APPENDIX E.—PALEONTOLOGY. 9203

sinus, and the ventral valve a correspondingly elevated ridge. Others
are depressed, with scarcely any sinus or bourrelet. The specimens I
haye seen from Arkansas are considerably mutilated. Occurs in Wash-
ington county.

TEREBRATULA MARCYI, Shumard.

PatmontTotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 4, a, b.

Shell small, ovate, elongate, moderately convex, sides and front neatly
rounded; dorsal valve regularly convex, rather more gibbous than the
opposite valve, greatest height near the beak, no traces of sinus; beak
elongated, elevated incurved, no perforation visible in our specimens;
ventral valve without median ridge, pointed at summit, cardinal border
slightly sinuous. Surface of each valve marked with from thirty-four
to thirty-eight simple rounded strie, which commence at the beak and
proceed to the lateral borders and front with division. In general form
it resembles 7. serpentina of Koninck, (Descr. des Animaux fossiles,
29, pl. xix, fig. 8, a—e,) but its smaller size and the lesser number of |
strie will serve to distinguish it.

It occurs with Terebratula subtilita and Productus punctatus in
Washington and Crawford counties, Arkansas, in dark-grayish carbon-

iferous limestone. We have found the same species in Floyd county,
Indiana.

SPIRIFER, (indet.)
Patzontoroey, Pl. 1, fig. 3.
In the collection from Washington county are several casts of a

spirifer like that which we have figured, They are all too imperfect
for description.

204 APPENDIX E.—PALEONTOLOGY.

FOSSILS OF THE CRETACEOUS PERIOD.
MOLLUSCA.

PECTEN QUADRICOsTATUS, Sowerby.
PatzonTooey, Pl. 3, fig. 6, and Pl. —, fig —.

Janira quadricostata, D’Orbig. Pal. Frang., III, 644, pl. eccexlyvii,
fig. 1—7.

Pecten quadricosiatus, F, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 64, taf. vii, fig. 4,
a—e.

Shell sub-ovate, angulated, convexo-concave. Inferior valve convex,
with prominent rounded radiating ribs, crossed by five concentric
thread-like striz. Ribs from fifteen to seventeen, of which five are
more prominent than the others; smaller ribs disposed in pairs in the
intervals between the larger ones. Superior valve slightly concave,
with radiating unequal ribs.

As we have not been able to consult Sowerby’s description of Pecten
guadricostatus, we refer our fossil to this species on the authority of
Dr. F, Roemer, whose figures and descriptions of specimens from Fred-
ericksburg, Texas, correspond very accurately with those we figure
from Fort Washita.

Figure 6 of plate 3 represents the inferior valve of a large individual
from Fort Washita, and fig. — of plate — the superior valve of a
smaller specimen.

ExoGyrA PONDEROSA, Roemer.

Hxogyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, 1849, Texas, 394.
Ostrea ponderosa, D’Orbig., 1850, Prod. de Palzont., II, 256.
Hxogyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 71, taf. ix, fig. 2, a—b.

Shell thick, ovate, sub-cuneiform; large valve gibbous, obtusely cari-
nated, surface marked with imbricating lamelle; small valve rather
thin, sub-concave, surface uneven, concentrically laminated. Occurs
rather abundantly at Fort Washita, generally in a fine state of preser-
vation. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels, Texas.

APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 905

GrreH#ZA Pircuert, Morton.
Patzxontotoey, Pl. 6, fig. 5.
Gryphea Pitcheri, Morton, Synops. Cretaceous Group, 55, pl. xv, fig. 9.
Ostrea vesicularis, D’Orbig. Prod. de Palzont. II, 256, ( pars.)
Gryphea Pitcheri, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 73, taf. ix, fig. 1, a—c.

Shell ovate, thick, gibbous, irregular; inferior valve boat-shaped,
inflated, divided into two unequal lobes by a longitudinal furrow,
which begins at the umbo and runs the whole length of the shell ;
umbo large, elongate, incurved and slightly compressed laterally. Su-
perior valve irregular, sub-oval, nearly plane, marked with concentric
imbricating lamelle. Occurs in great numbers in the cretaceous clays
at Fort Washita, and more sparingly at Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr.
Morton’s specimens were obtained from the plains of Kiamesha, Arkan-

sas, and Dr. F, Roemer found it quite common near New Braunfels,
Texas,

Exocyra Texana, Roemer.
Patxonroroey, Pl. 5, fig. 1, a—b, and fig. 5.

- Exogyra Texana, F. Roemer, Texas, 396.
Ostrea matheroniana, (pars.) D’Orbigny, Prod. de Palsont. II, 255.
Hxogyra Boussingaultii, Conrad’s Geolog. Report of Lynch’s Expe-
dition to Dead Sea, 213, pl. i, fig. 9, pl. ii, fig. 10 and 11.
Lxogyra Texana, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 69, taf. x, fig. 1, a—e.

The specimens of this shell in the collection were obtained by Dr.
G. G. Shumard, at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. They vary
very much in their characters, scarcely any two examples being alike.
In some the shell is quite thin, in others massive; some exhibit promi-
nent rugose ribs, while in others the ribs are but slightly elevated and
nodulose, According to Dr. Roemer, this Hzogyra characterizes the
cretaceous deposites near Fredericksburg and New Braunfels, Texas,
Mr. Conrad figures a shell from Syria, which he refers to Hxogyra
Boussingaultii, D’Orbig., and which appears to be identical with the
species under consideration.

OsTREA SUBOVATA, Shumard.

PatzonToxoey, Pl. 5, fig. 2.

Sub-ovate, trigonal, elongate, massive; inferior valve irregularly con-
vex, inflated, thick, umbo obtusely angulated, somewhat prominent;

206 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.

ribs four or five, longitudinal, irregular, rounded, nodulose; surface
marked with concentric imbricating lamelle; superior valve rather
thin, ovate, nearly plane, slightly convex near the beak, surface with
four or five well marked longitudinal undulating sulci.

It occurs at Fort Washita with Gryphea Pitcheri and Ammonates
vespertinus. It appears to be quite rare, the specimen figured being
the only one furnished by the expedition.

INOCERAMUS CONFERTIM-ANNULATUS, Roemer. .
PatzonTotoey, Plate 6, fig. 2.

Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 402. Kreidebild-
Texas, 59, taf. vii, fig. 4.

Shell ovate, depressed with close concentric undulating ribs; ribs
prominent, rounded, regular, intervals about equal to width of ribs.

I refer this fossil to the above species with some hesitation, as all the
specimens of the collection are either weather-worn or badly mutilated.
Nevertheless, if not identical, ours is a closely allied species. Occurs
rather abundantly at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr. F. Roe-
mer’s specimens are from the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels.

TRIGONIA CRENULATA, Lamarck.
Patzontotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 1.

Trigoma crenulata, Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas, 51, taf. vii, fig. 6.

Shell trigonal, thick, with from fourteen to fifteen oblique crenulated
ribs in each valve; anterior side wide, rounded, inflated, posterior side
produced, compressed; inferior margin rounded.

From Cross-Timbers, Texas. All the examples in the collection are
internal casts. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels.

ASTARTE WASHITENSIS, Shumard.

PatzonToxoey, Pl. 3, fig. 3.

Shell ovate, trigonal, a little longer than wide, compressed, inequi-
lateral, marked with fine concentric rounded striz; buccal side shorter
than the anal, excavated; basal margin rounded, truncated posteriorly,
beaks slightly prominent, excavated.

APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 207

The only specimen of this species collected by the expedition is rather
too imperfect to permit us to make a satisfactory description. It was
found in the cretaceous strata at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas.

CARDIUM MULTISTRIATUM, Shumard.,

Patzxontovoey, PI. 4, fig. 2.

Shell sub-rotund, inflated, length and breadth nearly equal, truncated
posteriorly, basal and anterior margins rounded; surface of posterior
sub-margin with from fourteen to fifteen regular radiating striz; remain-
der of surface marked with fine, equal, rounded, close, concentric striz.
Beaks rather prominent.

This is a neat, pretty species; and it is to be regretted that the speci-
mens collected were not in a better state of preservation. It was found
at encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas, where it is rather un-
common.

Panop#A TEXANA, Shumard.

Patzontovoey, Pl. 6, fig. 1.

Shell oval, elongate, inflated anteriorly, compressed behind, beaks
moderately prominent, basal edge rounded, buccal extremity wide,
rounded; surface marked with irregular concentric slightly elevated
ribs. Length about 2 5-10 inches, breadth 1 4-10 inch, thickness
1 1-0 inch.

The only specimen of this species brought home by the expedition is
an imperfect cast.

Locality, encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas.

TEREBRATULA CHOCTAWENSIS, Shumard.

PatzonTotoey, Pl. 2, fig. a, b.

Shell sub-globose, inflated, sub-pentagonal, front slightly truncated,
surface minutely punctate, the puncti only visible when examined
through a strong lens; dorsal valve most inflated; beak obtuse, recurved,
pierced by an oval aperture; area distinct, forming a well defined
obtuse angle; ventral valve moderately convex, sub-orbicular. Length
9 lines, width 8 lines, thickness 64 lines,

20S APPENDIX E.—PALEONTOLOGY.

It resembles Terebratula wacoensis, (F. Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas,
81, taf. vi, fig. 2, a-c,) but differs in the character of the surface, which
in 7. Choctawensis is thickly studded over with minute puncta. It is
also a smaller species; the area is not so wide comparatively, and the
front is not so broadly truncate.

This beautiful Terebratula was obtained from the cretaceous deposites
near Fort Washita, where it is quite rare, a single specimen only haying
been found.

Giosrconcua (TyLostoma) tumipa, Shumard.

PatzonTotoey, Pl. 5, fig. 3.

Shell ovate-globose, spire pyramidal, volutions about six, whorls
moderately convex; width of body whorl equal to about one half the
length of the shell. Length 1 7-10 inch, width 1 3-10 inch.

All the specimens we have seen are badly preserved internal casts.
Occurs at Cross-Timbers, Texas, in cretaceous limestone.

GLopiconcHa (?) ELEVATA, Shumard.

Patzontoxoey, Pl. 4, fig. 4.

Shell ovate, spire produced, whorls six regularly convex, body whorl
shorter than spire. Length 1 5-10 inch, breadth 1 inch.

This is likewise an internal cast. It occurs with the preceding
species. |

Evuima (?) susprustrormis, Shumard.
b]

Patzonrotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 3.

Shell subfusiform, elongate smooth, spire produced, regularly conical ;
whorls about six, broad, very sllghtly convex; suture rather shallow,
linear, aperture simple, sub-ovate; body whorl obtusely angulated.
Length 2 8-10 inches, width 1 1-10 inch.

The collection contains only a single specimen of the cast of this
species, and that badly weather-worn, It was found at Camp No. 4,
Cross-Timbers, Texas.

APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 909

AMMONITES VESPERTINUS, Morton.

Ammonites vespertinus, Morton, Synopsis Cretaceous Group U. S.,
40, pl. xvii, fig. 1. Jd., D’Orbigny, Prodrome de Palzont. II, 212.

Shell large, volutions about three; vertical section sub-quadrangular ;
ribs prominent, each garnished with three nodules, dorsal one most
prominent; dorsal margin furnished with a prominent rounded carina.

This is the largest species of Ammonite that has hitherto been found
in the United States. In the cretaceous strata near Fort Washita,
specimens were found to measure nearly three feet in diameter, and
estimated to weigh upwards of two hundred pounds. It is quite com-
mon. The fragment described by Dr. Morton was obtained from the
plains of Kiamesha, Arkansas.

AMMONITES MARCIANA, Shumard.

Patzonrotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 5.

Shell compressed, not carinated, with about twelve simple, prominent
rounded ribs, which cross the dorsum and sides of the last volution
obliquely, without interruption; dorsum convex, whorls compressed;
surface smooth in the intervals between the ribs; aperture longitudinal,
sub-oval.

Length of last whorl 11 lines, width of do. 44 lines; width of umbi-
licus 3 lines.

The specimen figured is a cast, and the character of the lobes of the
chambers cannot be made out.

Occurs in the cretaceous strata of Cross-Timbers, Texas.

AMMONITES ACUTO-CARINATUS, Shumard.

PatzonTotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 3.

Shell much compressed, sharply carinated, ornamented with from 30
to 34 transverse ribs; ribs simple, distinctly elevated, flexuous commen-
cing narrow at the umbilicus and widening to within a short distance of
the dorsal border, where they are again somewhat contracted; dorsal
carina prominent, sharp smooth, marked on each side by a shallow
depression; aperture elongate-cordate, lateral septa trilobate.

Diameter 2 4-10 inches; thickness of last whorl near aperture 5-10
inch.

14

210 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY.

Occurs rather abundantly with the preceding species at Cross-Timbers,
Texas.

Ammonires—(undetermined .)

Patzxontonocy, Pl. —, fig. —.

Several specimens of a small variety of ammonite, such as is repre-
sented in the figure, were found with the two last-described species, but
they are too imperfect for satisfactory description.

ECHINODERMATA.

HeEMIASTER ELEGANS, Shumard.

PatzonTo.oey, Pl. 2, fig. 4, a, b, e.

Shell ovate orbicular, moderately convex at summit, broadly emargi-
nate anteriorly; anal extremity truncated almost vertically, very slightly
excavated; ambulacra sub-petalloid, broad, situated in shallow depres-
sions, antero-lateral areas widely divergent, extending to the margin of
the test, postero-lateral areas much less divergent and short, peripetalous
fasciole indistinct; mouth transverse reniform, not far from the anterior
border, post oral tuberculated space lanceolate; anus oval longitudinal,
sub-anal fasciole scarcely visible; surface of test covered with small
spinigerous tubercles, with minute granule in the interspaces. The
dimensions of the largest specimen that I have been permitted to ex-
amine are as follows: length, 2 7-10 inches; greatest width, 2 5-10
inches; height, 1 5-10 inch.

This exceedingly elegant species occurs in great numbers in the cre-
taceous strata at Fort Washita.

Ho Laster SIMPLEX, Shumard.

Patzonto.oey, PI. 3, fig. 2.

Shell ovate, sub-cordate, gibbous, regularly rounded superiorly, most
prominent near apex, which is sub-central, declining at first gently to-
wards the mouth, then abruptly, truncated posteriorly, with a thread-like
carina leading from the apex to the anus; oral. sinus shallow, rounded;

APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 911

ambulacra flexuous, extending to the base, increasing gradually in width
to the inferior margin; antero-lateral are aswidely divergent; postero-
laterals separated by a moderate interval; mouth transverse, oval; anus
oval, longitudinal sub-anal fasciole indistinct; surface of test sparingly
studded with spinigerous tubercles, with numerous microscopic granules
in the interspaces. It approaches Holaster (Ananchytes) fimbriatus,
Morton, (Silliman’s Journal, XVIII, 245, pl. 3, fig. 9.) Our speci-
mens, however, differ from the figures given by Dr. Morton in being less
orbicular in the oral sinus, which is not so profound, and in the anal
border, which is more widely truncated
Occurs with Hemiaster elegans at Fort Washita.

Hotrctypus pLanatus, Roemer.

Hfolectypus planatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 393. Jbid, Kreidebild.
Texas, 84, taf. x, fig. 2, a—g.

In the collection from Cross-Timbers, Texas, we find several mutilated
specimens of Holectypus, which we refer without doubt to the above
species. Dr. Roemer’s examples were obtained from the vicinity of
Fredericksburg, Texas.

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APPENDIX F.

ZOOLOGY.

MAMMALS, BY R. B. MARCY, CAPT. U.S. A.
REPTILES, BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD.

FISHES, BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD.

SHELLS, BY C. B. ADAMS AND G. C. SHUMARD, M. UD.
ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS, BY C. GIRARD.
ARACHNIDANS, BY C. GIRARD.

MYRIAPODS, BY C. GIRARD,

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APPENDIX F.

ZOOLOGY.

ET

MAMMALS.

BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY.

Ursus Amertcanus, Pall. Black bear. Throughout the valley.

Procyon toror, L. Raccoon. Throughout the valley.

Mepuitis mesotnuca, (?) Licht. Texan skunk. Throughout the
valley.

Lurra CANADENSIS, Sabine. Otter. Throughout the valley.

Bassaris astuta, Licht. Civet cat. Cross-Timbers.

Canis ocomentAuis, Rich. Gray wolf. Above Shreveport.

Canis LATRANS. Prairie-wolf. Above Cross-Timbers.

CANIS

Large Lobos wolf. Above Cross-Timbers.

Vuurss rutvus. Red fox. Red river valley.

Lynx rurus. Wild cat. Red river valley.

Fenis concotor, L. Panther. Red river valley.

SciuRUS MAGNICAUDATUS, (?) Say. Fox-squirrel. Red river valley.

TAMIAS QUADRIVITTATUS, Say. Striped squirrel. Above Cross-Tim-
bers.

Preromys voLucELLa, Gm. F'lying-squirrel. Red river valley.

Castor Fizer, L. Beaver. Above Cross-Timbers.

Lerus syivaticus, Bach. Rabbit. Red river valley.

Lupus cautoris, (?) Wagl. Jackass rabbit. Above Cross-Timbers.

216 APPENDIX F.—MAMMALS.

LEPus ARTEMISIA (?) Small prairie rabbit. Above Cross-Timbers.

SPERMOPHILUS LUDOVIcIANUS, Ord. Prairie-dog. Above Cross-Tim-
bers.

DipELpHys VirGINIANA, Shaw. Opossum. Red river valley.

Cervus Vireiniana, Penn. Deer. Red river valley.

CERVUS CANADENSIS. Elk; only about Witchita mountains.

AntiLocapra AmERIcANA, Ord. Antelope. Above Cross-Timbers.

Bos Amertcanus, L. Above Cache creek.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 217

REPTILES,

BY 8. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD.

SERPENTS.

The serpents collected by Captains Marcy and McClellan belong to
ten species, distributed into eight genera. Several of these species had
previously been received from other sections of the country: three,
however, were first collected during the expedition. All are here
figured for the first time, except Ophibolus Sayi, of which a hitherto
undescribed variety is represented.

{. CROTALUS, Linn.

This genus is characterized by its erectile poison fangs, and by
having the upper surface of the head covered with small plates resem-
bling the scales on the body, and with only a few larger ones in front.
There is a deep pit between the eyes and the nostrils. The plates under
the tail are undivided, and the tail is terminated by'a rattle. Scales
carinated.

1. CroraLus CoNFLUENTUS, Say.

Zoouoey, Pi, 1.

Spsec. coar.—Head subtriangular. Plates on top of head squami-
form, irregular, angulated, and imbricated; scales between supercilia-
ries small, numerous, uniform. Four rows of scales between the sub-
erbital series (which only extends to the centre of the orbit) and the
labials. Labials 15 or 18, nearly uniform. Dorsal series 27-29.
Dorsal blotches quadrate, coneave before and behind; intervals greater
behind. Spots transversely quadrate posteriorly, ultimately becoming
10 or 12 half rings. Two transverse lines on superciliaries, enclosing
about one-third. Stripe from superciliary to angle of jaws, crosses
angle of the mouth on the second row above labial. Rostral margined
with lighter.

218 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

Synx.— Crotalus confluentus, Say, in Long's Exped. Rocky Mts. H,
1823, 48. B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 8.
C. Lecontet, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Se. Philad. VI, 1851, 180.

Description.—This species bears a considerable resemblance to C.
airox, but the body is more slender and compact. Scales on the top
of the head anterior to the superciliaries nearly uniform in size. Line
of scales across from one nostril to the other consists of six, not four as
in C. atrox. Superciliaries more prominent. Labial series much
smaller. Upper anterior orbitals much smaller, as also is the anterior
nasal. Scales on the top of the head less carinated. Scales between
superciliaries smaller and more numerous, five or six in number instead
of four. Two lateral rows of scales smooth; first, second, and third
gradually increasing in size. Scales more linear than in C. atroa.

General color yellowish brown, with a series of subquadrate dark
blotches, with the corners rounded and the anterior and posterior sides
frequently concave, the exterior convex. These blotches are ten or
eleven scales wide and four or five long, lighter in the centre, and mar-
gined for one-third of a scale with light yellowish. The intervals along
the back light brown, darker than the margins of the blotches. Ante-
norly the interval between the dark spots is but a single scale; poste-
niorly it is more, becoming sometimes two scales, where also the spots
are more rhomboidal or lozenge-shaped; nearer the tail, however, they
become transversely quadrate. The fundamental theory of coloration
might be likened to that of Crotalus adamanteus, viz: of forty or fifty
light lines decussating each other from opposite sides; but the angles
of decussation, instead of being acute, are obtuse, and truncated or
rounded off throughout. Along the third, fourth, and fifth lateral
rows of scales is a series of indistinct brown blotches covering a space
of about four scales, and falling opposite to the dorsal blotches: be-
tween these blotches, and opposite to the intervals of the dorsal blotches,
are others less distinct. Along the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth
rows is a second series of obsolete blotches, each covering a space of
about four scales, and just opposite the intervals between the dorsal
spots. The dorsal and lower series are separated by an interval of
three scales, this interval light brown. Beneath, the color is dull yel-
Jowish, and ten or twelve darker half rings are visible on the tail.

In point of coloration the principal features, as compared with C.
atrox, lie in the disposition of the dorsal blotches in subquadrate spots
instead of subrhomboids; the intervals thus forming bands across the
back perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. This tendency to assume

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 219

the subquadrangular pattern has broken up the chain-work into isolated
portions, as in Ophibolus eximius or Crotalophorus tergeminus. The
intervals of the dorsal blotches are wide and darker in the middle,
while in C. atrox they are narrow, not linear, and unicolor. The sides
of the head present the usual light stripe from the posterior extremity
of the superciliary; it passes, however, to the angle of the jaw on the
neck, along the second row of scales above the labials. A second
- stripe passes in front of the eye to the labials, widening there. A small
light vertical bar is seen below the pit, and another on the outer edge
of the rostral. On the superciliaries are two light transverse lines
enclosing a space nearly one-third of the whole surface. In C. atroz
there is a single median line. Sometimes, as in C. atrox, the single
blotches on the nape are replaced by two elongated ones parallel to
each other.

Dorsal row of scales, 29; abdominal scutelle, 180; subcaudal ones,
27. Total length, 34 inches; length of tail, 4 inches.

A specimen was collected the 5th of June in the Witchita mount-
ains. Another specimen of the same species was brought home from
the Cross-Timbers, Arkansas, by Dr. 8. W. Woodhouse, and described
by Dr. Hallowell as new, under the name of Crotalus Lecontei, on the
ground that the anterior vertebral spots are not confluent. This we do
not consider as a sufficiently distinctive character, although we have
never seen a specimen with decidedly confluent markings. The notes
of Dr. Leconte, quoted by Dr. Hallowell, hardly apply to the present
species. |

The species was first discovered by Say on Major Long’s expedition to
the Rocky mountains, and has not since been seen until procured first
by Dr. Woodhouse, and then by Captain Marcy and the Mexican
boundary commission. It was found by the latter party in Western
Texas, where, however, it is rare.

Plate I represents Crotalus confluentus of natural size.

Il. EUTANIA, B. & G.

This genus is composed of numerous species, some of them quite
common, and known under the names of Riband, Striped, and Garter
snakes: inoffensive, like most of the North American snakes. They
may be recognised by three light stripes on a darker ground, the inter-

vals between these stripes provided with alternating or tessellated

290 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

blackish spots. The scales have a ridge or small keel along their mid-
dle, and are arranged in 19 or 21 longitudinal rows. The postabdom-
inal or anal scutella is entire, like the others. There is one anterior
orbital plate and three posterior. The body is either moderately stout
or else slender, according to the species. Of the two described in this
article, one belongs to the division with a slender body and 19 dorsal
rows of scales, and the other to the second division, with a stouter body
and 21 dorsal rows of scales.

2. Eurania Proxima, B. & G.

Zoouoey, Pl. II.

Spec. cuar.—Body stoutest of the division. Black above; three
longitudinal stripes, the dorsal ochraceous yellow or brown, lateral
greenish white or yellow. Total length about three and a half times
that of the tail.

Syv.— Coluber proximus, Say, in Long’s Exped. to Rock. Mts. I,
1823, 187.—Harl., Journ. Acad. Nat. Se. Philad. V, 1827, 353.
Hutaina proxima, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 25.

Desc.—Deep brown, almost black, above and on the sides; beneath
greenish white. Dorsal stripe on one and two half rows of scales,
ochraceous yellow, lateral stripe on the 3d and 4th rows of scales, greenish
yellow or white, markedly different in tint from the dorsal. Sides of
abdominal scutelle, and 1st and 2d dorsal series, of the same color as
the back. On stretching the skin, numerous short white lines are visible.
Occipital plates with two small approximated spots on the line of junc-
tion. Orbitals whitish. The greenish white of the abdomen becomes
more yellow anteriorly.

Head more like that of 2. saurita than of H. Fatreyi, while the
body is stouter than in either. The subcaudal scales are less numerous
than in the other two allied species. Resembling /. Fazreyz in color,
it is always distinguishable by the stouter body, fewer caudal scales,
and dissimilarity of color in the longitudinal stripes.

Dorsal rows of scales 19, all keeled; abdominal scutelle 170; sub-
caudal ones 100. Total length 33 inches; length of tail 9 inches.
Found at Camp No. 7.

The species is represented in natural size on Plate IL.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 291

8. Eurznta MARCIANA, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. II.

Spec. cuar.—Prominent color light brown; a vertebral paler line
and one lateral on each side, more or less indistinct. Three series of
square black spots on each side, of about 56-60 in each series, from
occiput to anus. Sides of head black, with a crescentic patch of yel-
lowish posterior to the labial plates. Three and sometimes four black
vittee radiating from the eye across the jaws. A double white spot
with a black margin on the suture of occipital plates.

Syn.— Lutainia marciana, B. and G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 36.

Dese.—The markings about the head are generally very constant and
distinct. Viewed laterally, we see first the large dark-brown patch at the
back part of the head, extending as far back as the posterior extremity
of the jawbones. In the anterior part of this patch is seen the crescentic
patch (concave before) of yellowish white, with a more or less narrow
dark-brown margin anteriorly. The next black band starts from the
posterior edge of the superciliaries, and passes obliquely downwards
and backwards along the posterior edge of the 6th upper labial. Sim-
ilar black margins are seen on the posterior edges of the 5th and 4th
labials, the mtervening spaces being yellowish white, particularly on
the 5th upper labial. Occasionally the posterior margins of the 7th
and 3d labials have the black line as well as those mentioned, which
frequently extend across to the posterior margins of the corresponding
lower labials. The white spot on the anterior portion of the occipital
suture is always margined with black.

The six series of black spots are arranged so as to alternate with each
other. The lower or third series on each side is below the indistinct
lateral stripe. The posterior edge of each abdominal scutella shows a
black margined spot on each side. The dorsal line is generally a single
scale in width, occasionally including portions of the lateral, and itself
sometimes encroached upon by the black spots. Each spot is about a
scale or a scale and a half long, and about three scales broad. The
number in the dorsal series from the head to the anus varies from 56 to
60. Posterior edges of scales very slightly emarginate, if at all. All
are decidedly keeled.

Dorsal scales disposed in 21 rows; abdominal scutella, 152; sub-
caudal, 75. Total length 34 inches; length of tail, 8 inches.

Collected between Camp 5 and Red river, on the open prairie.

This species is very widely distributed in the south and west. Red
river forms its limit on the north, and the Gulf of Mexico on the east;

999 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

but it extends to the Rocky mountains on the west, and far into Mexico
on the south. Its centre of distribution appears to be on the lower Rio
Grande.

Plate III represents this species in natural size.

III. HETERODON, Pal. de B.

This genus is eminently characterized by the peculiarity of its snout,
which is terminated by a triangular plate recurved upwards; hence the
popular appellation of hog-nose snake. Though perfectly harmless, they
exhibit a threatening appearance, when approached, in the flattening of
their head and violent hissings; hence the names of blowing-viper,
spreading adder, &c. Their body is short, stout, and the tail also short.
The head is broad and short. The dorsal scales are carinated, and ar-
ranged in 23-27 rows. The preanal or postabdominal scutella is bifid ;
a chain of small plates beneath the eye, completed above by the super-
ciliaries. There is a supplementary plate on the top of the head, behind
the prominent rostral, either in contact with the frontals, or separated
by smaller plates. The colors are light, with dorsal and lateral darker
blotches, or else brown, with dorsal transverse light bars; sometimes
entirely black.

One species only was collected on the Red River exploration. Six

species are known to exist in the United States.

4, Hetzropon nasicus, B. & G.

Zooioey, Pl. IV.

Spec. onAr.—Vertical plate broader than long. Rostral excessively
broad and high. Azygos plate surrounded behind and on the sides by
many small plates (12-15.) A second loral. Labials short and exces-
sively high. Dorsal rows of scales 23, exterior alone smooth. A dorsal
series of about 50 blotches, with four or five other series on each side.
Body beneath, black. A narrow white line across the middle of the
superciliaries; a second behind the rostral. A broad dark patch from
the eye to the angle of the mouth, crossing the two postlabials.

Syn.—Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. Reptiles in Stansbury’s Expl.
Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 352—B. & G. Cat. N. Amer.
Rept. I, 1853, 61.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 993

Desc.—Vertical plate very broad, subhexagonal. Ocecipitals short.
Rostral very broad, high, more so than in the other species, outline
rounded. The interval between the opposite frontals, the rostral, and the
vertical occupied by a number of small plates, from 10 to 12, or more,
arranged without any symmetry, on each side and behind the small
azygos. The base of the rostral between the opposite prenasals is gen-
erally margined by these small plates, which sometimes, too, are seen
between the vertical and the anterior portion of the superciliaries. This
crowding of plates causes the anterior part of the forehead to be broader
than in H. simus. Eye small, its centre rather posterior to the middle
of the imaginary line connecting the tip of rostral with the lower angle
of the postlabial, which line scarcely crosses the eyeball. Orbital plates,
10-13 in number. Loral triangular, rather longer than high, separated.
from the frontal by a small plate. Nasals rather short, occasionally with
the lower part of the nostril bounded by a small plate. Labials 8 or 9
above, all of them higher than long; indeed, their vertical extension 1s
much greater than in any other species: the 6th highest; centre of eye
over the junction of the 5th and 6th.

Dorsal rows of scales 28, outer row smooth, rest all distinctly cari-
nated, the keels extending to the ends of the scales; those just behind
the occipital plates truncated, with obsolete carine. Scales on the hind
part of the body rather broader and shorter than anteriorly; the ine-
quality scarcely evident in large specimens,

Ground-color light brown or yellowish gray, with about 50 dorsal
blotches from head to tip of tail; the 39th opposite the anus. These
blotches are quite small, rather longer transversely, subquadrate, or
rounded, indistinctly margined with black, (obsoletely on the outside;)
they cover 7 to 9 scales across, are 2 to 24 long, and separated by in-
terspaces of 14 scales, which are pretty constant throughout, though
rather narrower on the tail. On each side of the dorsal row may be
made out, under favorable circumstances, four alternating rows of
blotches; the first on the contiguous edges of the scales of the first and
second exterior dorsal rows; the second on the scales of the 3d row, and
the adjacent edges of those in the 2d and 4th; the third on the scales
of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, and the adjacent edges of the 3d and 7th; and
the fourth on the scales of the 6th, 7th, and 8th rows, and the adjacent
edges of those of the 5th. This last is opposite the intervals of the
dorsal series; the rest alternate with it. The central inferior surface of
the abdominal scutellze is black, sharply variegated with quadrate spots
of yellowish white; the portion of the scutelle entering into the side of
the body is yellowish white, with that part opposite the dorsal intervals

2294 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

dark brown, thus, in fact, constituting a fifth lateral series of blotches,
alternating with the lowest already mentioned. The throat and chin
are unspotted. The head is light brown, with a narrow whitish line
finely margined before and behind with black, which crosses in front of
the centre of the vertical, and through the middle of the superciliaries:
a second similar but more indistinct line runs parallel to this just behind
the rostral, and extending down in front of the eye. A third equally
indistinct and similar line crosses the posterior angle of the vertical, and
runs back on the side of the neck, behind the labials and temporal
shields. There is a broad brown patch from the back part of the eye to
the angle of the mouth, across the penultimate and last labial. The
coloration is thus very different from that of H. Simus, where there is
a distinct narrow black band across the forehead scarcely involving the
vertical, and passing through the eye to the angle of the mouth across
the last labial. Behind this a much broader yellowish band, continued
without interruption into the neck behind the angle of the mouth. In
Ff, nasicus the most conspicuous feature is a narrow white band, much
narrower than the darker patch before and behind it. The dark patch,
to the angle of the mouth, is much broader, continuous as it were, with
the broad bar between the middle and anterior light lines, which
corresponds with the narrow black line of H. Simus. The other dis-
tinguishing features are evident. The three dark patches behind the
head are much as in #7. simus.

In large specimens from Sonora and the Copper Mines of the Gila,
(Fort Webster), the ground-color is yellowish gray, each scale minutely
punctate with brown. The blotches are all obsolete, only one dorsal
and two lateral on each side being defined by darker shades. The
blotches on the sides of the abdomen are wanting, but the black in the
middle is strongly marked. The other characters, however, are preserved,
except that the exterior row of dorsal scales is more or less carinated.

Specimens of this species vary in the number of small postrostral plates.
In some there are only three or four, in others a largernumber. Some-
times, instead of a single series of median dorsal spots, there are two, in
close contact, and more or less confluent. The narrow light line across
the middle of the superciliaries and the high labials are always highly
characteristic.

The specimen figured of natural size on plate IV, is much smaller
than those alluded to from Sonora and the Copper Mines, and upon
which the foregoing description has been based.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 925

IV. PITUOPHIS, Holbr.

This genus, closely allied to Heterodon, is characterized by a promi-
nent snout, the rostral plate elevated and convex, without, however, being
recurved. There are two pairs of postfrontal plates instead of one, and
occasionally also two verticals; three or four postorbitals ; generally two,
sometimes only one anteriorly. The scales are carinated along the
back, smooth on the sides, and constituting from 29-35 dorsal rows.
The preanal or postabdominal scutellz is entire.

The ground-colors are either whitish or reddish yellow, with a triple
series of patches, those of the medial series the largest, and several
series of smaller blotches on the sides. Abdomen unicolor or spotted,
with an outer row of blotches. Head of same color as the body, macu-
lated with black spots. A narrow band of black across the upper sur-
face between the eyes, and a postocular vitta on each side, extending
obliquely from the eye down to the angle of the mouth. A black ver-
tical patch is often seen beneath the eye.

The names of Bull, Pine, and Pilot snake are commonly given to
different species of this genus, which are all of great size, including in
fact some of the largest serpents of North America. Some of the spe-
cies utter a hissing or blowing sound.

5. Prrvopnis McCrietitanu, B. & G.

Zooxoey, Pl. V.

Spec. cHAr.—Head subelliptical. Rostral plate very narrow. An-
teorbitals 2; postorbitals 4. Dorsal rows 33-35; the 7 outer rows
smooth, Tail forming 1-9 or 1-10 of total length. Postocular vitta
brown, and rather broad. Suborbital black patch conspicuous; com-
missure of labials black. Color of body reddish yellow, with a series of
53 blotches from head to origin of tail. Blotches of adjoining series,
on either side, confluent across the light spaces between medial blotches.
Flanks covered with small blotches, forming 3 or 4 indistinct series.
Twelve transverse jet-black bars across the tail. Abdomen yellowish,
thickly maculated with black patches.

Syn.—Pituophis McClellani, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer, Rept. I, 1853,
68.—Pilot-snake.
16

226 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

Dersc.—Head proportionally large, ovoid, distinct from the body.
Snout pointed. Occipital plates small. Vertical broad, subpentagonal,
slightly concave on the sides. Superciliaries large. Internal postfront-
als rather narrow, elongated; external postfrontals quadrilateral, a little
broader forwards. Prefrontals irregularly quadrangular. Rostral very
narrow, extending halfway between the prefrontals, convex and raised
above the surface of the snout. Nostrils in the middle line between the
nasals, the posterior of which is a little the smaller. Loral trapezoidal,
proportionally large. Inferior anteorbital very small, resting upon the
fourth upper labial. Postorbitals varying in comparative size. Tempo-
ral shields small, resembling scales. Upper labials 8; 6th and 7th the
larger. Lower labials 12; 6th and 7th largest. Posterior mental shields
very small, extending to opposite the junction of the 7th and 8th lower
labials. Scales proportionally small, in 33-35 rows, the 7 outer ones
perfectly smooth and somewhat larger than the remaining rows.

Ground-color yellowish brown, with three series of dorsal black
blotches, 53 in number, from the head to opposite the anus, with 12 on
the tail, in the shape of transverse bars. Those of the medial series the
larger, and covering 8 or 9 rows of scales. On the anterior part of the
body they are subcircular, embracing longitudinally four scales; poste-
riorly they become shorter by one scale. The light spaces between are
a little narrower than the blotches themselves for the twelve anterior
blotches, and wider than the blotches for the remaining length of the
body. The blotches of the adjoining series alternate with those of the
medial series, being opposite to the light intermediate spaces, across
which the blotches of either sides are generally united by a transverse
narrow band. The flanks are densely covered with small and irregular
blotches, forming three indistinct series, confluent in vertical bars towards
the origin of the tail. Inferior surface of the head yellowish, unicolor
Abdomen dull yellow, with crowded brownish black blotches in series
on the extremity of the scutellee.

Two specimens of this species were caught the 28th of June. The
largest is figured, of natural size, on plate V. It is 384 inches in length;
the tail measuring nearly 5 inches. Abdominal scutellz 231; subcau-
dal ones, 52.

V. SCOTOPHIS, B. & G.

The scales in this genus are very slightly carinated on the back, and
perfectly smooth on the sides. Preanal scutella bifid. One large ante-

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. on/

‘orbital plate and two postorbitals. The colors are brown or black, in
quadrate blotches on the back and on the sides, separated by hghter
intervals; beneath usually coarsely blotched with darker. In one spe-

cies there are dark stripes on a light ground.

6. Scororuis LaEtus, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. VI.

Spec. cHAR.—Similar to S. confinis, but postfrontals larger. Verti-
eal plate longer than broad. Dorsal rows 29. Abdominal scutelle
227. Subcaudals 72. Blotches fewer than in S. confinis.

Syw.—Scotophis laetus, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 78.

Desc.—This species bears a close resemblance to S. confinis, and its
characters may be best given by comparison with the latter. It differs,
therefore, in the greater number of dorsal rows, 29 instead of 25. The
whole body and head are much stouter. Exterior eight rows smooth,
rest slightly carinated. The vertical is broad before, rather acute
behind. A probably monstrous feature is seen in the union of the two
postfrontals, except for a short distance before, and in the Joral and post-
nasal coalescing into one trapezoidal plate. Blotches less numerous.
A broad vitta across the back part of the postfrontals, passing backwards
and downwards through the eye, and terminating acutely on the poste-
rior upper labial. A blotch across the back part of the vertical, and
extending through the occipitals on each side to the nape. The spots
are larger, longitudinal throughout, with occasional exceptions.

Its affinities to S. vulpinus are close. The vertical, however, is nar-
row, the eyes much larger, dorsal rows 29 instead of 25. The blotches
on the back are longitudinal, and fewer in number. For a complete
description of this species it will be necessary to procure larger speci-
mens.

The specimen figured on Plate VI is of natural size. The only one
caught of this species is 18 inches long. Length of tail 34 inches.

VI. OPHIBOLUS, B. & G.

The body is rather thick, and the tail short. The scales smooth and
lustrous, and disposed in 21 or 23 rows, which scarcely overlap. The
preanal scutella is entire. A small anteorbital plate and two postorbitals.
Eyes very small.

228 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

The ground-colors are black, brown, or red, crossed by lighter inter-
vals, generally bordered by black.
Seven species, besides the two here described, have hitherto been found

in North America.

7. Opnipotus Say, B. & G.

Zoouoey Pl. VII.

Spec. cuAr.—Black, each scale above with a large circular or sub-
circular white or yellow spot in the centre. Sometimes only transverse
lines of these spots across the back.
Syn.—Herpetodryas getulus, Schl. Ess. Phys. Serp. Part. descr. II,
1837, 198.

Coronella Sayi, Holbr. (non Schl.) N. Amer. Herp. III, 1842, 99.
Ph xxii

Coluber Sayi, Dekay, New York Fauna, Rept. 1842, 41.

Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G., Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 84.

Desc.—Body, as in most of the other species of the same genus, very
tense and rigid, with difficulty capable of being extended after immersion
in alcohol. Vertical plate triangular, wider than long; outer edge slightly
convex, an angle being faintly indicated at the junction of the super-
ciliaries and occipitals; shorter than the occipitals, which are short,
longer than broad. Postfrontals large, broad; prefrontals smaller.
Rostral small, not projecting, slightly wedged between prefrontals.
Eye very small, orbit about as high as the labial below it; centre of the
eye a little anterior to the middle of the commissure, over the junction of
the 3d and 4th labials. One anteorbital, vertically quadrate; loral
half its height, square. Upper labials 7, increasing to the penultimate.
Lower labials 9; 4th and 5th largest.

Scales nearly as high as long, hexagonal, truncated at each end.
Dorsal rows 21, exterior rather larger, and diminishing almost imper-
ceptibly to the back, although all the scales in a single oblique row are
of very nearly the same shape and size.

The scales on the back and sides are lustrous black, each one with
a central elliptical or subcircular spot of ivory-white, which on the sides
occupy nearly the whole of the seale, but are smaller towards the back,
where they involve one half to one third of the length. Beneath yel-
lowish white, with broad distinct blotches of black, more numerous
posteriorly. Skin between the scales brown. The plates on the top and
sides of the head have each a yellowish blotch; the labials are yellow,
with black at their junction.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 239

Other specimens agree except in having bright yellow instead of
white as described; the spots, too, are rather smaller, and manifest a
slight tendency to aggregation on adjacent scales, so as to form trans-
verse bands. This is seen more decidedly where the back is crossed
by about 70 short dotted yellow lines; the 56th opposite the anus.
The scales between have very obsolete spots of lighter, scarcely discern-
ible. The sides are yellow, with black spots corresponding to the dorsal
lines; indeed, there may be indistinctly discerned two or three lateral
series of alternating blotches.

In larger specimens from the West, this tendency in the spots to
aggregation is still more distinct. The back is crossed by these dotted
lines of the number and relation indicated, at intervals of four or five
scales; the spots on the intervening space being obsolete. These lines
bifurcate at about the 9th outer row, the branches connecting with
those contiguous, so as to form hexagons; and these extending towards
the abdomen again, decussate on about the third outer row, thus enclos-
ing two series of square, dark spots on each side. These lateral mark-
ings are, however, not very discernible, owing to the confusion produced
by the greater number of yellow spots. On the edge of the abdomen
are dark blotches, one opposite each dorsal dark space, the centres .of
the scutellze being likewise blotched, but so as rather to alternate with
those just mentioned.

The specimen represented on Plate VII was caught the 16th of May,
between Cache creek and Red river. Total length 334 inches; tail 32
inches; abdominal scutelle 224; subcaudals 49.

8. OrHrpoLus GenTILis, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. VIII.

Spec. cHAR.—Muzzle more convex and acute than in 0. doliatus.
Body red, encircled by about 25 pairs of broad black rings enclosing a
white ring: the white mottled with black on the sides. Black rings
broader than in O. doliatus. Upper part of head entirely black.

Syn.— Ophabolus gentilis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 90.

Desc.—Ground-color deep-red, encircled by 25 pairs of black rings,
the 21st opposite the anus, each pair enclosing a third ring of white, the
latter becoming yellowish by immersion in alcohol. The black rings are
conspicuously broader above, the three crossing eight scales on the verte-
bral row anteriorly, and towards the anus about five. Anteriorly the inter-
vals between successive pairs consist of about five scales, posteriorly only
of two or three, thus diminishing considerably. The black rings con-

230 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.:

tract as they descend, those of each pair receding slightly from each
other, so as to cause the yellow portion to expand about one scale. The
black rings are continuous on the abdomen, those of contiguous pairs
(not of the same pair) sometimes with their intervening spaces black.
The scales in the white rings are always more or less mottled with black,
especially along the sides of the body, this mottling being very rarely
observable on the red portion. The anterior black ring of the first pair
is extended so as to cover the whole head above, except the very tip;
the white ring behind it involves the extreme tip of the occipitals.

A large specimen is much duskier in its colors. The black rings ex-
tend on the back so that the contiguous rings of adjacent pairs run into
each other. There are 28 pairs of rings, the 25th opposite the anus.

Dorsal row of scales, 21; abdominal scutelle, 198; subcaudal ones,
45. Total length, 20 inches; length of tail, 2¢ inches. Plate VIII
represents the largest of two specimens, caught June 14, near Sweet-
water creek.

VII. MASTICOPHIS, B. & G.

The prominent feature of this genus consists in a very slender and
elongated tail, forming one-third or one-fourth of the length. It bears
a close relationship to the black snakes (Bascanion), from which it dif-
fers chiefly in the structure of the plates on the upper jaw. The scales
are smooth and disposed in fifteen or seventeen dorsal rows. The pre-
anal scutella is divided. The vertical plate is long and narrow. There
are two anteorbitals and two postorbitals, these resting against the fifth
labial.

9. MAsTICOPHIS FLAVIGULARIS, B. & G.

Spec. cHar.—Light dull yellow, tinged with brown above. Beneath,
two longitudinal series of blotches distinct anteriorly. In alcohol, and
especially when the epidermis is removed, the whole animal appears of
a soiled white.

Syn.—Psammophis flavigularis, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Se.
Philad. VI, 1852, 178. .
Masticophis flavigularis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 99.

Drsc.—Size very large. Vertical plate broad before, tapering to the
middle, where it is about half as wide as anteriorly, thence it runs nearly

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 931

parallel. Vertical rather shorter than occipitals. Greatest breadth across
superciliaries less than half the length of the portion covered by plates.
Occipitals moderate. Centre of eye considerably anterior to the centre
of commissure, over the junction of the 4th and 5th labials. Labials 8
above, increasing in size to the 5th, which is elongated vertically, the
7th elongate and largest. The 5th forms part of the inferior and pos-
terior wall of the orbit, as in all the species of the genus, resting above
against the lower postorbital, with which the 6th labial is not in con-
tact. Dorsal scales broader than in Bascanion constrictor, their sides
perfectly straight, slightly truncate, with the corners rounded. Exterior
row largest, rest gradually diminishing. Scales on the tail widely
truncate.

The general color, both above and below, may be described as a dull
straw-yellow, tinged with light olivaceous brown above. This latter
tint exists in the form of a shading on the centres and towards the tips
of the scales, leaving the bases yellowish. The proportion of brown
increases towards the back, and in older specimens sometimes suppresses
the yellow. In all instances a darker shade is seen towards the tip of
each scale. The skin between the scales is yellowish. The scutelle
anteriorly exhibit each two rather large brownish blotches, one on each
side of the median line, constituting two rows on the abdomen, which
fade out posteriorly. Sometimes the series are not discernible, the
blotches spreading so as to constitute a dark shade to the margins and
exterior edges of the scutelle. The posterior portions of the plates
under, and on the sides of the head, are similarly blotched; the same
tendency being observable on the posterior edges of the plates on the
top of the head, by the deeper shade of the olivaceous brown there pre-
valent. Anteorbitals yellow. One specimen was procured 574 inches
long. Abdominal scutelle 19142. The tip of the tail is missing.

In smaller specimens the blotching beneath is rather more decided.
In addition to the colors described, the back is crossed by indistinct
bars of darker, eight or nine scales wide and half a scale long. This
color is also seen on the skin between the scales under the dark bars,
where the bases of the scales themselves are darker instead of light.
There is a tendency towards stripes on the side: first one of light brown,
on the outer edge of the abdomen; then an interrupted yellow one at
the junction of the abdominal scutellze and outer scales; then brown
again through the centres of the rows. This, however, is not very con-
spicuous. Sometimes the dark shades on the sides are tinged with red-
dish. The obsolete transverse bars are seen at intervals of one or two
scales.

932 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

This species may prove to be the Coluber testaceus of Say. A
specimen from Fort Webster, or the Copper Mines, collected by the
U.S. and Mexican Boundary Commission, shows the stripes on the
sides much more distinctly, running through all the dorsal rows ante-
riorly, and crossed by the indistinct bars already referred to. The con-
trast between the dark chestnut-brown spots on each side, and its deeper
centre, with the clear yellow of the edges, is very distinct. Beneath
yellow, with the blotches reduced to mere dull spots.

VIII. LEPTOPHIS, Bell.

The body is elongated and very slender, the tail forming more than
the third of the entire length. The scales are disposed in 17 dorsal
rows and keeled, except the two outer rows, which are smooth. The
nostril is situated in the middle of a single plate. The eyes are large.
The preanal scutella is bifid or divided. The color uniformly green.

10. Lepropuis masauis, B. & G.
Zoooey, Pl. TX.

Spec. cHAR.—Reddish green above, yellowish white beneath. Body
proportionally stouter and tail shorter than in LZ. estivus. Snout and
whole head, including vertical, longer than in latter species. Dorsal
scales in 17 rows.

Syn.—Leptophis majalis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 107.

Dersc.—Head more pointed, broader on the temporal region, and more
tapering on the snout than in Z. estivus. Vertical plate subhexagonal,
broader, and postfrontals proportionally larger in comparison with the
prefrontals, than in Z. estivus. Occipitals maintaining more their width
posteriorly, obtuse-angled behind. Nasal more elongated ; loral smaller,
and longer than high. Two large temporal shields and a few small ones
behind. Seales strongly carinated, except the outer row, which is per-
fectly smooth, and the second row, which is but slightly carimated. The
scales of both of these rows are broader than the rest.

Total length, 284 inches; length of tail, 92 inches. Abdominal scu-
tell, 163-1; subcaudal, 111. The specimen figured on Plate IX
was caught on the 13th of July at the head of Cache creek, near old
Witchita village.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 233

LIZARDS.

Six species of saurians, or lizards, belonging to six different genera,
were collected during the exploration of Red river. One of them has
proved to be new to science; two were recently described for the first
time, whilst the three others have been long known to herpetologists.

I. PHRYNOSOMA, Wiegm.

This genus, including the so-called horned toads or horned frogs, more
properly horned lizards, is recognizable by a depressed, broad, and
subelliptical body, covered above with irregular scales, the majority very
small, others quite large, pyramidal, raised above the surface of the
skin, and scattered all over the back, sides, and tail. The head is sub-
triangular and provided with powerful spines or horns, giving to it rather
a formidable appearance, although all the species of this genus are per-
fectly inoffensive. There are external auditive apertures as in most
of the lizard tribe.

In a monograph of the genus appended to Stansbury’s Exploration
of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, six species are described
as indigenous to North America; another has since been added to the

list. The single species collected is the most abundant of the genus.

1. PurynosoMa cornutum, Gray.

Spec. cuar.—Nostrils situated within the internal margin of the
superciliary ridge; occipital and temporal spines longer and more acute
than in Ph. orbiculare ; a double row of pyramidal scales on the sides
of the abdomen; scales on the inferior surface of the head small and
slightly keeled, of a general uniformity, except one row on each side,
somewhat larger, pyramidal, acute, slightly raised, and directed outwards
and backwards; a series of very large inframaxillary plates, sharp on
their outer edge, the posterior one of which is transformed into a spine.
The plates lining the margin of the jaws are not prominent. The scales
of the belly are proportionally small, subquadrangular, keeled, and pos-
teriorly very acute; femoral pores undeveloped, or rudimentary in the
female.

934. APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

Synw.—Phrynosoma cornutum, Gray, Syn. Rept. in Griff. Anim, Kingd.
IX, 1831,45. Holbr.N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 87. Pl. xi.—Girard
in Stansbury’s Expl. Val. Great Salt Lake, 1852, 360. Pl. viii, fig.
1—6.

Agama cornuta, Harl. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 141. Plate, figs. 1
and 2.

Phrynosoma Harlani, Wiegm. Herp. Mex. 1834, 54.—Dum. and
Bibr. Erp. gen. IV, 1837, 314.

Ozs.—The color of this species has been well described by Dr. Hol-
brook. We may add that the ground-color above in some individuals
is of a variable shade of ferruginous red—a tint sometimes seen on the
inferior surface of the body. The belly is either unicolor, or else spotted
as in P. orbiculare. Numerous specimens of this species were collected
during the exploration of Red river; some on the prairie between Camps
2 and 3; others between Camps 6 and 7, and at Camp 7 also; others
still on the south fork of Red river, and several other localities.

II. CROTAPHYTUS, Holbr.

Noticed for the first time during Major Long’s expedition. The type of
this genus was briefly described by Say in the second volume of Long’s
Narrative, and there called Agama collaris, in allusion to the very
striking feature of bearing a double black sub-crescentic band on the
sides of the neck. The genus Crotaphytus was first established by
Dr. Holbrook, and is characterized by the presence of small, polygonal
plates on the whole surface of the head. The odd occipital plate itself
is inconspicuous; the auditive apertures are very broadly open. Teeth
are found on the jaws and palate. There is a fold of the skin under
the throat; the head is large and sub-triangular; the body covered with
minute scales; and the tail very long and tapering. Femoral pores
present.

This genus now includes four North American species; three we
have lately described under the names of C. Wislizenii, from New
Mexico, C. Gambelzi, from California, and C. dorsalis, from the desert

of Colorado; the fourth is the following:

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 939

2. CrorarHytus couanris, Holbr.

Spec. c#AR.—Tail conical, very long and tapering; head large, sub-
triangular, rounded at the snout; two subcrescentic black bars, margined

with white on each side of the neck; the largest extends from the origin

of the fore-legs to near the dorsal line; the second of these black bars
is smaller, and situated between the latter and the head.
Syn.— Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 79.
PA. x.
Agama collaris, Say, in Long’s Exp. Rocky Mts. II, 1823, 252.—Harl.
Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 142.

Oxzs.—The specimens on hand exhibit several varieties of coloration
worthy of being noticed: thus two specimens from Gypsum Bluffs, on Red
river—a rocky locality—present a green ground-color above, with large
blue patches and bright yellow spots; underneath light-green, almost
uniform, except under the head, which is deeper and provided with blue,
irregularly elongated spots; another specimen from the same locality has
brown as the predominating tint. Light-brown stripes are seen on the
legs and tail; similar spots on the body and head; four rows of red
spots on the back; belly light-brown; light reddish-brown under the tail
and feet.

Specimens from the head of the south fork of Red river have either
a bluish-gray back, with white spots, a bluish-white belly, and the
inferior surface of fore-legs reddish, or else the back is yellow and green.

The above memoranda, on the coloration, were taken on the spot by
Capt. Marcy. The general distribution of color appears to indicate sexual
differences: thus all the specimens before us in which the spots have a
tendency to arrange themselves in transverse bands, or even where
transverse narrow bands take the place of the spots, have proved to be
females. The ground-color, however, varies in both sexes.

Ill. HOLBROOKIA, Girard.

The genus Holbrookia bears a striking resemblance to the one just
described ; it has the same general form, the same sub-triangular head,
covered with small polygonal plates, a fold under the throat, small
scales on the back, and femoral pores. The tail is perhaps smaller in
proportion to the size of the body. The absence of an external auditive

936 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

aperture will, however, at once characterize it generically from all its
allies. The absence of teeth on the palatine bones is another organic
character by which the genus Holbrookia can be distinguished from
Crotaphytus. From Homalosaurus it differs only by the absence of
an external auditive aperture.

The species upon which the genus was originally based is the one
collected by the expedition.

Three other species were found in Texas, and described by us under
the names of H. affinis, propinqua, and texana, (see Proceedings of
the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia, August, 1852).

3. Hoitprooxta MACULATA, Girard.

Spec. cHar.—Above light-brown, with two dorsal series of irregu-
larly crescent-shaped black spots convex posteriorly, and provided with
an olivaceous margin; flanks with small crowded yellowish or reddish
spots; two, occasionally three, deep-bluish black spots on the sides of
the abdomen; beneath unicolor, either of a soiled white or yellow tint;
sometimes irregular bluish vittee under the head.

Syn.— Holbrookia maculata, Girard, Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. of Se.

IV, (1850), 1851, 201; and in Stansbury’s Expl. Valley of Great
Salt Lake, 1852, 342. Plate vi, fig. 1—3.

Oss.—A full description, as well as a figure of this species, may be
found in the Report of Captain Howard Stansbury on the Valley of the
Great Salt Lake of Utah; rendering it unnecessary to reproduce either
here.

Numerous specimens were collected on the Canadian river and sur-
rounding localities.

IV. SCELOPORUS, Wiegm.

The genus has the general appearance of Holbrookia, but is provided
with large auditive apertures, large imbricated and carinated scales on
the back in most instances; and smooth scales on the belly. The sub-
guttural fold of the former, however, is not to be seen here and on the
surface of the head; the plates, though small, are larger, especially the
occipital. There are no teeth on the palate.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 237

Most of the species of this genus are Mexican: one is common in the
United States, and known as the brown or fence lizard. A second
species was discovered by Captain Stansbury in the valley of the Great
Salt Lake. Another species inhabits the western States, and a fourth

is peculiar to Oregon.

4, SceLoporus consosrinus, B. & G.
Zooxoey, Pl. X, Figs. 5-12.

Spec. cHar.—Ground color above brownish, with a series of small
black spots, eight or ten in number, on each side of the dorsal line. A
yellowish stripe outside of the spots, and a black band beneath the stripe.
A greenish area between the black band above and the elongated blue
patch on the sides of the abdomen. Beneath, greenish blue.

Drsc.—This species bears a close relationship to S. graciosus, from the
valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, in the description of which the
remarkably large size of the dorsal scales was mentioned as constituting
one of its most distinguishing features, when compared to S. scalaris.
In the present species the dorsal scales are proportionally still larger
than in S. graciosus. Its body and head are also more slender and
narrower. The tail is more tapering and elongated, and constitutes
almost three-fifths of the total length. In coloration the differences
between the two species are very striking.

The head is subelliptical, depressed, declive towards the snout, which
is rather pointed. The superciliary region is but slightly raised above
the plane of the vertex. The rostral plate is subtriangular, very low,
and elongated transversely. The nostrils are almost circular, situated in
the middle of a small plate, separated from the rostral by two small
intervening ones. There are ten or twelve internasal and very small
plates, and nine somewhat larger frontals, the middle one the largest.
There are two verticals (or frontals), the anterior one the largest. The
occipital is large and pentagonal, surrounded by four or six smaller
plates, two anterior of medium size, contiguous to the postvertical,
two lateral, larger and triangular, exteriorly to which two smaller ones
may be observed. There are three or four subhexagonal, transversely
elongated, plates on the superciliary region, surrounded internally by
one row and externally by two rows of minute plates. The superciliary
edge is formed by five sharp and imbricated thin plates; it is continued
in the shape of a ridge to the nostril by means of two sharply keeled
plates. The suborbitals are two in number, the posterior one much the
longest. There is a small loral.

238 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

The plates which line the jaws are subquadrangular, very narrow and
elongated, four above and five below, the latter considerably larger.
Above the series of plates of the upper jaw, and between the suborbitals,
two series of small and irregular plates may be observed. Four or five
inframaxillary plates constitute a series on each side of the lower surface
of the head, joimed anteriorly by the subpentagonal symphysal plate.
Between the inframaxillary series and the series lining the lower jaw
exists a series of four or five elongated and small plates.

The auditive aperture, which is proportionally large, is oval, and
almost vertical in its longest diameter. At its anterior margin may be
seen two or three scales, larger and more pointed than those on the tem-
poral region. Behind the auditive aperture, and situated obliquely on
the neck, is a slight fold of the skin.

The neck is somewhat contracted, the body slender and depressed,
with the back, however, slightly arched, and the belly flat. The tail, as
already mentioned, is quite long and slender, depressed at its base, and
hence conical towards the tip.

The fore-legs, when stretched backwards along the sides, extend nearly
to the groin, while the hind-legs, when brought forwards, reach almost
to the ear.

The scales are imbricated and keeled on the back and sides. Their
general shape is that of a lozenge, terminated posteriorly by an acute
spine. There are ten longitudinal rows along the back, with five on
each side, which are somewhat oblique, and smaller. Underneath, the
scales are smooth, posteriorly tricuspid on the belly, whilst under the
head and throat they have but two posterior spines. The scales below
as well as above the fore-legs are keeled. Those on the upper part of
the hind-legs are also keeled, whilst on the thighs they are smooth. The
fingers and toes are surrounded with carinated scales to their very tips.

The femoral pores, thirteen or fourteen in number on each side, are
conspicuous and situated in the middle of one single small plate.

The black spots in the series along the back are comparatively small,
and separated from each other by a space greater than their diameters.
The yellow stripe extends from the origin of the neck to beyond the
anus, the black from above the shoulder to the groin. The blue patch
is elongated and narrow, terminated posteriorly by a black stripe which
runs for a little distance along the thigh. There is an elongated black
spot on the shoulder.

One specimen was collected on the 6th of June.

Plate X, fig. 5, represents the species in profile and of the natural size.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 239

Fig. 6. The side of the head enlarged, to show more distinctly the
structure of its plates.

Fig. 7. Head from above, enlarged in the same proportion as fig. 6.

Fig. 8. Head from below, enlarged.

Fig. 9. The right arm and fingers, seen from below.

Fig. 10. The right leg and toes, seen from below.

Fig. 11. Dorsal scales, enlarged four times.

Fig. 12. Scales from the belly, slightly enlarged.

V. CNEMIDOPHORUS, Wagl.

This genus is characterized by a bifid tongue; a double transverse
fold of skin under the throat; teeth on the palate; maxillary teeth com-
pressed, the posterior one tricuspid; femoral pores; broad plates under
the thighs; fingers not carinated underneath ; and a subcylindrical, very
long and tapering tail. The body above is covered with minutely
crowded scales ; whilst on the belly there are eight longitudinal rows of
subquadrangular, transversely elongated plates, or scutellze. On the tail
the scales are quite large and very conspicuous, strongly carinated and
constituting circular rows or whorls.

The explorations of the last few years in Texas and New Mexico have
brought to light several other species of the genus Cxemidophorus, all
provided with eight longitudinal rows of abdominal scutella. These are
C. gracilis, from the desert of the Colorado; C. perplexus, from the upper
valley of the Rio Grande; C. gularis, C. Grahami, and C. marmoratus,
from different localities in Texas.

The discovery of C. gularis in Arkansas is an interesting fact in

regard to its geographical distribution.

5. CnemiporHorus eutaris, B, & G.

Zoouoey, Pl. X, fig. 1-4.

Spec. cHAR.—Ground color brownish, with six longitudinal stripes,
green or yellow; beneath yellowish white, unicolor. Scales on the sub-
guttural fold quite large and conspicuous in proportion to those in other
species.

240 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

Syn.— Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Philad.,
vi, 1852, 128.

Desc.—This species is very closely allied to C. sexlineatus, having, like
the latter, six longitudinal stripes, three on each side of the body, run-
ning from head to some distance along the tail. It has, also, the same
general form ; but on a close comparison it will soon be observed that
the body is proportionally shorter, the limbs more developed, whilst the
scales on the back appear to be actually larger. The head is propor-
tionally smaller and narrower. But the most striking organic character
consists in the presence of somewhat large and conspicuous scales on
the margin of the subguttural fold of the skin. The following indica-
tions of color are derived from the notes of the Expedition: The upper
surface of the head is reddish brown; three longitudinal yellow or
greenish stripes extending from the head to the origin of the tail; the
middle stripe on each side may be followed on the tail to a considerable
distance. The dorsal space between the two uppermost stripes on each
side is brown, or reddish brown, like the head above. The space be-
tween the uppermost and middle stripes is of a deep black, and extends
from the upper angle of the orbit down to a certain distance along the
tail. The space between the middle and lower stripes, and between the
latter and the abdominal scutellw, is green, or greenish brown. The
legs are brownish red, and the belly white or bluish white. The tail
underneath is yellowish red; above, brownish, or reddish brown.

Specimens were collected on the 5th and 6th of June.

Plate X, fig. 1, represents Cnemidophorus gularis of natural size.

Fig. 2. Head seen from above, to exhibit the plates.

Fig. 3 shows the scales on the subguttural fold and the hand from
beneath, as well as the submaxillary plates.

Fig. 4 represents the femora: pores, the preanal plates, and also the
plates at the inferior surface of the hind-legs, and the lower surface of
the feet.

Vi. LYGOSOMA, Gray.

This genus includes small scincoid lizards, the nostrils of which open
in one single plate, the nasal. The supranasals are wanting. The
palate is without teeth, and provided with a triangular notch situated
far back. The scales, broader than long, are all smooth.

All the species of Zygosoma belong to the Old World, except the one
here mentioned.

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 941

6. Lyg@osoMaA LATERALIS, Dum. and B.

Spec. cHAR.—Upper part of head and body chestnut-brown; a black
lateral band extending from the snout across the eye to a considerable
distance along the tail. Flanks grayish-brown, with longitudinal indis-
tinct, darker, interrupted vittee. Abdomen yellowish, and tail beneath
bluish ; circumference of scales mottled with gray. Tail longer than
the body. Limbs very small.

Syv.—Scincus lateralis, Say, in Long’s Exp. Rock. Mts. II, 1823,
324.—Harl. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. V, 1827, 221, and VI, 1829,
12.—Holbr. N. Amer. Herp., first ed., I, 1836, 71. PI. vii.

Scincus unicolor, Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad., V.i, 1825, 156.

Trliqua lateralis, Gray, Syn. Rept., in Griff. Anim. Kingd., Cuy. IX,
1831, 70.

Lygosoma lateralis, Dum. and B., Erp. gen. V, 1839, 719. Holb. N.
Amer. Herp, second ed., II, 1842, 133. Pl. xix.

This small and graceful species appears to be spread over a large por-
tion of the United States. It is always met with running on the surface
of the ground in forests, among dead leaves, never ascending either trees
or shrubs like many other lizards.

The body is sub-quadrangular, the head continuous with it, and, like
it, flattened above. The tail is sub-circular, tapering into a point. The
plates of the head correspond with the descriptions which we have
before us, except that the frontonasals are not contiguous, but separated
by a small odd plate directly in advance of the vertical (sometimes
called frontal). But this peculiarity of structure is not indicative of any
specific difference. :

The auditive apertures are large, circular, and their margin simple.
The fore-legs, when extended forward, reach the eye. The hind-legs are
a little longer and stouter than the fore-legs, The scales are perfectly
smooth, uniform above and below, and disposed in thirty longitudinal
rows around the body. The two middle preanal scutelle considerably
larger.

One specimen was procured near the mouth of Cache creek, on the
16th of May.

16

242 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

BATRACHIANS.

Of this order of reptiles only two species were procured—a toad and
a frog.

1, Buro coenarvs, Say.

Zoouoey, Pl. XI.

Spec. cHAR.—Greenish brown above, with a lighter yellowish dorsal
line. Patches of blackish-brown scattered over the sides and legs.
Beneath unicolor of a dingy yellow. Head short, groove on its upper
surface, not extending to the anterior rim of the eye.

Syn.— Bufo cognatus, Say, in Long’s Exp. to Rock. Mts. II, 1823,
190.

Ors.—It is not without hesitation that we have referred the present
species to Bufo cognatus; the description of Say as cited is exceedingly
brief, applying almost equally well to several allied species. The colors
of our specimen vary considerably from the B. cognatus as described by
Say; but the characters of the groove of the crown agree better. The
mark of “head with a groove which hardly extends anteriorly to the
line of the anterior canthus of the eye,” although not strictly in aceord-
ance with our species, may, with some allowance, be made to answer to
it. It is much to be regretted that the original specimen of Say was
destroyed in the conflagration of the Philadelphia Museum, and thus all
hopes of identification are lost. If, however, further explorations in
Arkansas should yield many additional specimens, all differing as much
as the present from Say’s description, it will become necessary to assign
a new name to it, especially if the true B. cognatus be at the same time
detected.

Description.—The head is very short, the snout obtuse and truncate,
with the nostrils subterminal. Upper surface of head grooved; groove
subelliptical and short, not extending anteriorly to the anterior rim
of the eye (fig. 2). The superciliary ridges thicken from before back-
wards, extending to the tympanum in passing obliquely behind the
eyes, and in contact also with the parotid glands, which are subovoidal
and of medium size. Tympanum rather small, subelliptical; its longest
diameter almost vertical. The fore and hind legs are well proportioned
to thesize of the body. The under surface of the hand is provided
with small crowded tubercles, a more conspicuous and a larger one at
the articulations of the fingers; the fingers themselves are depressed or

APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 943

flattened. A larger disc-like knob is observed on the middle and at the
base of the hand (fig. 3).

The toes (fig. 4) are but slightly webbed, and, like the fingers, de-
pressed. The fourth is conspicuously the longest, and the third a little
longer than the fifth. The under surface of the feet (fig. 5) is covered
with smaller tubercles than those of the hands. A large spade-like ©
process exists at the base of the first or inner toe, exteriorly to which,
and at the base still of the metatarsus, is a small knob-like tubercle. The
body is thickly covered with papille, with some large ones more con-
spicuous along the sides of the back; on the flanks they are smaller,
similar to those of the intervening spaces on the back; on the abdomen
the papillae are smaller still; upper part of hands and feet minutely
granulated. The snout alone is smooth.

The dark patches scattered over the upper part of the animal are
margined with a light yellowish line. Sinuating yellowish lines may be
observed on the sides of the belly, or flanks and legs. A rather large
spot is seen beneath the eye, and another in advance and beneath the
tympanum near the angle of the mouth.

One specimen procured near the Water-hole between Camps 6 and 7.

Plate XI, fig. 1, represents Bufo cognatus of natural size.

Fig. 2. The head from above.

Fig. 3. Left hand seen from below.

Fig. 4. Right foot from above.

Fig. 5. Right foot from below,

2. Rana pipiens, Latr.—Bullfrog.

Spec. cuar.—Toes webbed to their extremity, fourth toe one fourth
longer than the third and fifth. An elongated tubercle at the base of
the first toe; sub-articular tubercles of fingers and toes but slightly
developed. Vomerine teeth on two rounded and separated elevations
situated between the internal nostrils. Diameter of tympanum (in the
specimen before us) greater than the diameter of the eye.

Syx.—fana pipiens, Latr. Hist. Nat. Rept. II, 1802, 153. Hazl.
Amer. Jour. Se. X, 62. Med. & Phys. Res., 1835, 101; and Jour.
Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. V, 1827,335. Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. IV,
1842, 77. Pl. xviii.

Rana mugiens, Merr. Tent. Syst. Amph. 1820, 175. Dum. & B.
Erp. gen. VIII, 1841, 370.

The bullfrog is quite a common animal in the United States, though
its northern, western, and southern limits are not yet accurately known.

944 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES.

A large specimen was found in a cold spring near the head of the south
fork of Cache creek, in the Witchita mountains. The upper parts of
body and limbs are covered with warty eminences, more crowded on the
body. These warts are perfectly smooth, like the skin itself. The
ground-color is greenish brown above, with crowded deep brown or
blackish spots. Beneath, dull yellow, with clouded bluish patches. The
lower surface of the feet has the same marmorated appearance as the
back. The jaws and snout are greenish brown, and perfectly smooth.

The specimen before us is remarkable for the size of its tympanum,
which is much larger than the eye.

APPENDIX F.—FISHES. 245

FISHES.
BY S. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD.

eee ee

1. Pomoris toneutus, B. & G.
Zoo.oey, Pl. XII.

Spec. coAr—General form elongated. Opercular flap rather small
and entirely black. Twenty-seven to twenty-nine rows of scales across
the line of greatest depth of body, and about thirteen rows on the tail.
Fifty-two scales in the lateral line.

Syn.—Pomotis longulus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI,
1853, 391.

Description.—The body is very much compressed, and more elon-
gated than usual in the genus Pomotis—so much s0, indeed, as to re-
semble Grystes even more than Centrarchus. The head constitutes a little
less than the third of the total length, including the caudal fin; it is
subconical, with a little depression upon the middle of the skull. The
eyes are large and circular, and their diameter is contained five times
in the length of the head measured from the tip of the snout to the
extremity of the opercular flap. The posterior extremity of the maxillary
reaches a point opposite the middle of the pupil. The cheeks are densely
covered with small and imbricated scales. The largest scales are on the
opercular apparatus (the preopercular excepted), where they are also
imbricated. The opercular is subtriangular; its upper angles rounded,
and the posterior one terminated by a membranous and rather small flap,
entirely black. The subopercular extends along the inferior edge of the
opercular, tapering slightly upwards. The interopercular forms a regu-
lar curve immediately beneath the preopercular, and is covered with one
row of scales, there being a double row of these upon the subopercular.

The dorsal fin is rather low, especially its spiny portion. Its anterior
margin is exactly opposite to the opercular flap. There are ten spiny
rays and nine soft ones, the last being double and the shortest. The first,
second, third, fourth, fifth, and sixth rays increase gradually in length in
the order enumerated ; the eighth is equal to the sixth; the ninth is the

246 APPENDIX F.—VFISHES.

longest. They all (the soft rays) bifurcate from their middle, and then
again subdivide from four-fifths of their length to the tip. The caudal
fin is subcrescentic posteriorly ; its angles are rounded; its length con-
tained five times and a half in that of the body and head together. The
central rays bifurcate three times upon their length. There are seventeen
rays in all, with a few rudimentary ones. The anal is well developed ;
its three anterior spiny rays are the shortest, and not very conspicuous.
The eight remaining ones are soft and articulated; similar in structure
to those of the dorsal fin. The ventrals are inserted behind the base of
the pectorals; their tip, when bent backwards, reaching the anus, which
is situated a quarter of an inch in advance of the anterior margin of the
anal fin. This is subtriangular, posteriorly subtruncated, composed of an
anterior spiny ray and five soft and articulated ones, which bifurcate
twice. The pectoral extends backwards as far as the ventrals. Its
rays, fifteen in number, are all soft and very slender, bifureating twice.
Only thirteen of these rays are well developed. The formula of the
fins is as follows:

DX. 917 AML 6°C.2 Beh ae

The scales are of medium size, longer than high, truncated anteriorly,
rounded posteriorly, and finely denticulated, as seen in fig. 4. The lateral
line does not extend beyond the insertion of the rays of the caudal, the
base of which is covered with scales irregularly disposed. The smallest
scales are observed under the head, upon the throat; the largest on the
peduncle of the tail. |

The color is not sufficiently preserved in the single specimen collected
to admit of description. Traces of irregular lines are, however, visible
upon the cheeks and opercular apparatus.

Found in Otter creek, Arkansas.

Plate XII, fig. 1. Pomotis longulus, in profile and of the size of life.

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale taken on the middle of the back, above the
lateral line.

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line, exhibiting the mucous tube.

Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the abdomen, below the lateral line,

Figs. 2-4 are magnified twelve times.

2. Pomorts srevicers, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. XIil.
Spec. cHAR.—General form short and stout, subelliptical; opereular

flap very much developed and directed upwards, black with a lighter
margin. Twenty-four rows of scales across the line of greatest depth,

APPENDIX F.—FISHES. O47

and twelve rows on the peduncle of the tail. Thirty-seven scales on the
lateral line.

Syvx.—Pomotis breviceps, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI,
1853, 309.

Descrtption.—The abbreviated head constitutes two-sevenths of the
entire length, the caudal fin included. Middle of the cranium slightly
depressed. Nostrils nearer to the eye than to the tip of the snout.
Eyes of medium size and circular; their diameter is contained four
times only in the length of the head from the snout to the base of inser-
tion of the opercular flap, which is longer than a diameter of the eye.
The mouth is proportionally small; the posterior extremity of the max-
illary not extending as far back as the middle of the pupil. The teeth
are slenderer and more conspicuous than in Pomotis longulus. Cheeks
covered with scales, but slightly smaller than those on the opercular
apparatus. The opercular bones have the same general shape as in
Pomotis longulus; but the opercular flap is very much developed, longer
than broad, and rounded posteriorly. The structure of this flap is
somewhat similar to a fin; slender and simple rays being distinctly visi-
ble through the membrane.

The dorsal fin commences in a line above the base of the opercular
flap. Its spinous portion is almost as elevated as the soft one. There
are eleven spinous rays, the first and second smallest; and ten articu-
lated or soft ones, occupying a little more than half the space as the
spines. The structure of the soft rays and their relative length are
much as in Pomotis longulus; they bifurcate from the middle of their
length, and subdivide again upon their extremity. The caudal is sub-
erescentic posteriorly, and its angles rounded. It is composed of seven-
teen well developed rays, and a few rudimentary ones. ‘The central rays
bifureate three times. The anal fin is composed of nine soft rays, one
more than in P. longulus, and three spinous ones; the second and third
almost equal in length. They bifurcate and divide in the same manner
as the dorsal. The insertion of the ventrals is immediately behind the
base of the pectorals. Their shape is triangular, and when bent back-
wards their tip extends to the anterior margin of the anal fin, thus over-
lapping the anus, which is situated as in P. longulus, about a quarter of
an inch in advance of the anterior margin of the anal fin. The ven-
trals are composed of one spinous and five articulated rays, which bifur-
cate three times. The insertion of the pectorals is subcrescentic; the
tip of these fins reaches about as far back as do the ventrals. The
rays, fourteen in number (thirteen of them well developed), are slender

248 APPENDIX F.—FISHES.

and show traces of a bifurcation of the third degree upon their ex-
tremity.

DAL 103 ATE O5.@ 2,7. 8, %eT.,.23 Vib teeta

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long, subtruncated
anteriorly, and rounded posteriorly with minute denticulations. Scales
irregularly disposed, exist on the base of the caudal. The largest scales
are seen on the middle of the flanks, and the smallest upon the sub-
thoracic region. The ground-color appears to have been of a uniform
reddish brown. The opercular flap is deep black, margined with a
lighter line, the hue of which is not preserved. There are several sinuous
irregular lines upon the cheeks and opercular apparatus.

This species has a general resemblance to Pomotis nietidus, Kirt., but
may easily be distinguished by prominent characters.

One specimen was caught in Otter creek, Arkansas.

Plate XII, Pomotis breviceps of natural size.

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale.

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line.

Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the belly.

Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times.

3. Levcrscus viemax, B. & G.*

ZoouoGey, Pl. XIV, figs. 1-4.

Spec. cuar.—Subfusiform. Dorsal fin longer than high. Sixteen
rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, and eight on the pedun-
cle of the tail. Thirty-eight to forty scales in the lateral line, which
runs through the middle of the sides, slightly bent downwards on the
abdomen.

Syn.—Ceratichthys vigilax, B. & G. Proce. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad.
VI, 1853, 391.

Descrivtion.—Body subfusiform, compressed. The head forms one-
fifth of the entire length from the snout to the tip of the caudal fin;
it is contained three times in the length of the body, the caudal fin
being about one-fifth of the entire length. The head itself has the
shape of a truncated cone. The eyes are subelliptical ; their longitudi-

* NorE.—Owing to the immature state of the specimens, we have preferred re-
turning this species to the genus Leuciscus. Although having a strong resem-
blance to Ceratichthys, as also to Pimephales, in the bluntness of the snout, the
inferior position of the mouth, and other characters, yet the specimen is almost
too small to allow a final determination as to its generic character.

APPENDIX F.—FISHES. 949

nal diameter being contained three times and a half in the length of the
sides of the head. The mouth is rather small, its angle not extending
to a point below the anterior rim of the eyes. The opercular bone is
conspicuously large, and almost trapezoidal in shape. The subopercu-
lar and preopercular are comparatively small. The isthmus beneath
is about three-tenths of an inch wide.

The dorsal fin is longer than high, and is composed of nine rays, bi-
furcated from about their middle; some of the median rays showing
another subdivision upon their extremity. The caudal fin is forked; its
angles are acute. It contains eighteen well developed rays, and sev-
eral rudimentary ones above and below ; the central ones bifurcate twice.
The base of the caudal fin is considerably broader (higher) than the
central portion of the peduncle of the tail. The anal fin is situated be-
hind the dorsal, is higher than long, subtrapezoidal, and composed of eight
bifurcated rays; the central ones subdivided towards their extremity.
The ventrals are inserted very little behind the anterior margin of the
dorsal; they are rather slender, posteriorly rounded, composed of eight
bifurcated rays, the middle ones bifurcated towards their extremity ; and
when bent backwards the fin does not reach quite to the anus, which
is situated immediately in advance of the anterior margin of the anal
fin. The pectorals are slender; when bent backwards they do not reach
the insertion of the ventrals. They are composed of fourteen bifur-
cated rays, the central ones subdividing at their last third. Formula:

Wes WA Sec 3.-1,:8) 8.1. 35V' 85, Pld,

The scales are proportionally large, a little higher than long, rounded
at both extremities, more abruptly posteriorly. The lateral line runs
along the middle of the side, slightly bent downwards on the abdomen.

The ground-color is yellowish brown; a blackish stripe composed of
crowded dots follows the lateral line on the sides.

One specimen (immature) caught in Otter creek, Arkansas.

Plate XIV, fig. 1, represents Lewciscus vigilaz, size of life.

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale.

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line.

Fig. 4. Abdominal scale.

Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times.

4, Leuciscus BuBAttnus, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. XIV, figs. 5-8.

Spec. cHAR.—Compressed. Back arched. Tailslender. Dorsal fin
higher than long. Ten rows of scales across the line of greatest depth,

250 APPENDIX F.—FISHES.

and five rows on the tail. The lateral line, which contains about thirty-
six scales, runs below the middle of the flanks. Dorsal, caudal, anal,
and ventral fins, well developed.
Syn.—Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Se. Philad.
VI, 1853, 391.

Descriprion.—The body much compressed, and rather short in ap-
pearance. Back considerably arched in advance of the dorsal, behind
which the body tapers quite rapidly posteriorly, rendering the peduncle
of the tail comparatively slender. The head is about one-fifth of the
entire length. Eyes comparatively large and circular; their diameter
contained three times and a half in the length of the head, one diame-
ter intervening between the eye and the snout. The nostrils are nearer
to the eyes than to the tip of the snout. The jaws are even, (the figure
represents the lewer one a little too short). The opercular apparatus is
conspicuously developed, especially the opercular, which has the shape
of an elongated quadrangle, slightly concave posteriorly, and slightly
rounded inferiorly. The isthmus is quite small.

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin corresponds to the middle of
the distance between the snout and the base of the caudal fin. It is
angular and higher than long, and composed of eight rays. The anal
has the same length as the dorsal, but is not quite as high; it is composed
of nine articulated rays and two minute spines at the anterior margin.
The ventrals when bent backwards reach the anterior margin of the
anal fin, consequently overlapping the anus situated close to the anal fin.
They contain eight rays, all soft or articulated. The pectorals are
comparatively small and slender, reaching the insertion of the ventrals
when brought backwards. Their posterior margin is rounded; the rays
eleven in number. In all the fins the rays are bifurcated, and the
middle ones subdivided upon their length. Formula:

D's A T1986 4.2, 9 OL Soe tse wae

The scales are large, higher than long, rounded anteriorly, subtrun-
cated posteriorly. The lateral line forms a very open curve, conyex
downwards, and nearer to the insertion of the ventrals than to the base
of dorsal.

The ground-color is greyish ; the hue is not preserved on the specimen.

Caught, like the preceding, in Otter creek, Arkansas.

Fig. 5 represents Leuciscus bubalinus the size of life, and apparently
quite mature.

Fig. 6. A dorsal scale.

Fig. 7. Scale from the lateral line.

APPENDIX F.—FISHES. 951

Fig. 8. Abdominal scale.
Figs. 6+8 are enlarged twelve times.

5. Levciscus turrensis, B. & G.
Zoouoey, Pl. XIV, figs. 9-12.

Spec. cHaR.—Subfusiform, compressed. Insertion of ventrals in ad-
vance of dorsal. Twelve rows of scales across the line of greatest
depth; six rows on the tail. About thirty-six in the lateral line, which
is bent downwards on the abdomen and slightly broken in advance of
the anal fin. Dorsal and anal fins well developed.

Syn.—Leuciscus lutrensis, B.& G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI,
1853, 391.

Derscription.—The body is much compressed and subfusiform in gen-
eral appearance, somewhat tapering from the posterior margin of the
dorsal and anal fins to the caudal, the base of which is broader than the
peduncle of the tail. The greatest depth is equal to the length of the
sides of the head, which is contained three times and a half in the total
length, the caudal fin included. The greatest thickness is nearly half
of the depth. In general aspect it resembles Leuciscus kentuckiensis
of Kirtland. The eyes are of medium size, subcircular; their diameter
contained four times in the length of the sides of the head. The nos-
trils, situated towards the upper surface of the head, are nearer to the
eyes than to the tip of the snout. The posterior extremity of the max-
illary does not reach the vertical of the anterior rim of the orbit.

The upper and posterior margins of the opercular constitute a uniform
curve, whilst the anterior and inferior margins are straight, forming a
rather acute angle. The suboperculars and interoperculars are compara-
tively small,

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin is situated on the middle of the
distance between the snout and the base of the caudal; the fin itself is
quadrangular, higher than long, and composed of eight rays, the last
double, and the anterior rudimentary in close contact with the next.
The anal is shaped somewhat like the dorsal; it has nine perfect rays,
and an anterior rudimentary one. The caudal is deeply forked with
acute angles, and shorter than the head. It is composed of nineteen
well developed rays, and several rudimentary ones, above and below.
The ventrals are posteriorly rounded, (a character not expressed in the
figure,) composed of eight rays, and when bent backwards their tips
reach the anus, which is situated immediately in advance of the anal
fin. The pectorals are elongated, rather slender, rounded, and their tip

252 APPENDIX F.—FISHES.

not quite reaching the insertion of the ventrals. They are composed of
eleven slender, bifurcated, but not subdivided, rays. The médian rays
of the dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventrals, are subdivided for at least one-
fourth of their length, the bifurcation beginning sometimes upon their
middle. Formula:

D8+15 ALO CO) 10.6. 1: V 8; Pas

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long; anterior, supe-
rior, and inferior margins, uniformly rounded, posteriorly subtruncated.
The lateral line is considerably bent down on the abdomen, and slightly
broken in advance of the anal fin.

The ground-color, as preserved in alcohol, is dull bluish brown; the
back is bluish; the dorsal fin yellowish brown; the caudal, pectorals,
and ventrals, are reddish.

Several specimens were caught in Otter creek, Arkansas; the largest
of which we have had figured.

Plate XIV, fig. 9, Leuciscus lutrensis size of life.

Fig. 10. A dorsal scale from the middle of the region between the
dorsal fin and the lateral line.

Fig. 11. A scale of the lateral line taken beneath the dorsal fin.

Fig. 12. Au abdominal scale taken beneath the lateral line, half way
between the latter and the line of the belly.

APPENDIX F.—SHELLS. 253

SHELLS.

BY PROFESSOR C. B. ADAMS.

Amusrst, MAssAcHUSETTS,
December 1, 1852.
Dear Sir: I transmit herewith a list of the shells which were col-
lected in Texas and upon Red river, by Captain Marcy ;
And have the honor to remain, your obedient servant,
C. B. ADAMS.
President Hrrcucock.

ACEPHATLA.
1. Unto asprerrimes, Lea.

The specimens have a great profusion of small tubercles on the
umbones. One large specimen was taken May 22d, at the foot of the
Witchita mountains; 3 mature and 5 young shells were taken in Otter
creek, July 13th, near the same place; long. about 100° W.; lat. about
34° 35’ N.

2. Unto, Sp. indet.

This may be a variety of the preceding; but with only one decayed
specimen, we do not venture to describe it as a new species. It differs
in having only a few large tubercles in two radiant series, of which one
passes down the middle of the disc, and the other is on the posterior
angle. A few small curved ridges proceed from this angle to the liga-
mentary margin. No label.

8. Unio tupercutatus, Barnes.

A single valve of a young specimen; no labei.

954 APPENDIX F.—SHELLS.

4. Uxto anoponrowes, Lea.

7 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th; one of them is
5 inches long, 2 to 3 inches high, and 1.6 inch wide.

5. Unto parvus, Barnes.

24 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th.

6. Unto Hyptanus, Lea.

2 specimens were taken near Fort Washita July 31st.

7. Unto Lavissimus, Lea.

The specimen is for this species remarkably thick; the nacre is deeply
colored with reddish-purple, and there are some fine radiating striz
behind the umbones. No label, but may have been taken in Otter creek,
since it was in the same parcel with the next species.

8. Unio eRactrzis, Barnes.

Several specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th, and some

July 15th, probably in a branch of Cache creek, a few miles west of
Otter creek.

9, CycLas pistorta, Prime.

4} specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th.

GASTERGPODA.
10. Butimus Ltrquasriis, Reeve.

4 specimens (dead) were taken in Otter creek July 13th. This is
the only terrestrial species in the collection.

11. Puysa ANcILLARTA, Say.

9

3 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. They are more
shouldered than is usual, but not so much as the variety figured by Pro-
fessor Haldeman, Monog. Physa, pl. 3, fig. 5.

APPENDIX F.—SHELLS. 955

12. Puysa HETEROSTROPHA, Say.

12 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th.

13. LymN#a CAPERATA, Say.

2 specimens were taken May 16th, one day from Cache creek.

14. PLanorBis LENTUS, Say.

Several specimens were taken with the preceding; also in Otter
ereek, July 13th.

Geographical Distribution.

Nos. 3, 11, 12, and 13 occur also through the western and eastern
States. No. 8 has its northeastern limit in Lake Champlain. Although
Ohio specimens of this species are easily distinguished from those of
Lake Champlain, it is remarkable that these Texan shells cannot be
distinguished from them. Nos. 5, 6, and 14 are southern species. No.
10 has hitherto been known only as a Texan shell. The remainder are
western and southern species.

NOTICES OF ADDITIONAL SPECIES OF SHELLS: BY G. C. SHU-
MARD, M. D.

1. Uxto anopontorpgs, Lea.

Found in the Little Witchita, and in a small creek between Fort
Washita and Fort Arbuckle; quite abundant, and the specimens very
beautiful.

2. Unio rucosus, Barnes.

Occurs with the preceding species at all the localities above men-
tioned. The specimens are less ventricose than any we have seen from
the Ohio basin. They approach more nearly to a variety brought by
Prof. Litton from Red river of the north.

‘

256 APPENDIX F.—SHEULLS.

3. Unio sittquomeus, Barnes.

Found in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Washita.

4. Unto tavissimus, Lea.

A few detached valves of this species were found on the banks of
Otter creek.

5. ANODONTA IMBECILIS, Say.

Abundant, and very beautiful, in Beaver creek; more sparingly in a
small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Washita.

6. PLANORBIS TRIVOLVIS, Say.

Abundant in many of the streams from Fort Belknap to the sources
of Red river.

7. Puysa eyrina, Say,

Beaver creek, Choctaw Nation.

8. SuccINEA AVARA, Say.

Otter creek, Choctaw Nation.

9. CycLAS PARTUMEIA, Say.

Otter and Beaver creeks.

10. Butimus DEALBATA, Say.

Texas.

APPENDIX F.—ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 957

ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS.

BY CHARLES GIRARD.

I, DATHINIA, Hald.

GEN. CpAs—Body rather short, concave above, without any traces
of wings; provided. with short and robust limbs; second and third

nts of tarsi, equal; antennz long and filiform. A row of spines upon
the under surface of the femora, more conspicuous in males than in
females.

Syn.—Dazhinia, Hald.. Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. Sc. IT, 1850, 346.

Ozs.—The general aspect of this genus is that of Phalangopsis,
from which it differs by having “shorter antennz, shorter and more
robust limbs.” It approximates to Stenopelmatus by the structure of
its tarsi, in which the second and third joints are equal.

Prof. Haldeman, who traced the distinction between Dazhinia and
Phalangopsis, proposed to consider the former as a mere sub-genus of
the latter. But should the above character prove constant, they are
sufficient to raise Dachinia to the rank of a genus; thus simplifying
much the nomenclature.

Two species of this genus are known—the one herein described and
figured, and D. robusta, Hald., an inhabitant of New Mexico.

1. Darninta BRevipss, Hald.

Zoo.oey, Pl. XV, figs. 9-13.

Spec. cHar.—Dark brown, mottled with lighter shades; legs short
and robust; tibize shorter than the femora, and strongly spinous; antenne
of medium development.

Syn.— Phalangopsis (Daihinia) brevipes, Hald. Proce. Amer. Assoc.
Adv. Se. Il, 1850, 346.

Description.—The fact that in this species the tibie are shorter
than the femora, contributes somewhat to impress upon it more strongly

that character of the genus which consists in being provided with
17

258 APPENDIX F.—ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS.

shorter limbs than in Phalangopsis. The surface of the body is gen-
erally smooth, but posteriorly, and particularly in the male, there are
minute short spines, which give to that region a granulated appearance ;
these minute spines are especially crowded upon the margin of the
segments or articulations. The femora are provided with spines above
and below, stronger below, and more so in the male. The tibial spines
are very much developed on the anterior and posterior tibize, much less
on the medial ones; anteriorly they occupy the outer edge of the limbs,
and answer fossorial purposes; posteriorly they constitute two rows,
directed horizontally backwards, inclining a little downwards, the inner
row being the strongest. The anterior and posterior tarsi are trimerous ;
the medial ones being tetramerous. The ovipositor is comparatively
small; its length being less than the half of the length of the body,
and provided beneath and towards the tip with from eight to ten small
spines.

The ground-color is chestnut-brown, mottled above with lighter
shades. The antennz and spines are blackish.

Specimens were collected at the Camp No. 7, recorded as “yellowish-
brown;” others on June 5th and 6th, said to be “ yellowish-red.”

Plate XV, fig. 9, represents the male Daihinia brevipes size of life.

Fig. 10 is the female, also the size of life.

Fig. 11, front view of the head of the female.

Fig. 12, a tarsus from above.

Fig. 13, a tarsus from below.

Il. ANABRUS, Hald.

Gen. CHAR.—Body sub-cylindrical, thickest in the middle; without
wings; antennze almost as long as the body, and filiform; pronotum
selliform, extending over the basal articulation of the abdomen, and con-
cealing rudimentary elytra; ovipositor elongated, nearly straight, sword-
shaped; tarsi broad, soles concave; third articulation cordate.

Syy.—Anabrus, Hald. in Stansb. Expl. Vall. G. Salt Lake, 1852,
App. ©, 370.

Oxss.—The general appearance of the genus Anabrus reminds us
strongly of Phalangopsis proper, from which it is distinguished by its
movable and selliform pronotum and the length and shape of the
ovipositor. The general proportions of the body and limbs are more
elongated than in Phalangopsis. The structure of the tarsi, which is

APPENDIX F.—ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 959

not apparent upon a first glance, affords other differences not less
important, between Anabrus and Phalangopsis, when studied. com-
paratively.

2, ANABRUS HALDEMANII, Girard.
Zoooey, Pl. XV, figs. 5-8.

Spec. cHar.—Antennex long and filiform, reaching posteriorly the
base of the ovipositor; pronotum short, broad; femora smooth. Yellow-
ish; feet and ovipositor reddish purple. Posterior margin of pronotum
black, with two parallel black bands on the posterior third of its length.

Descriet10n.—The abdomen above exhibits.ten segments or articula-
tions; the anterior or basal one being, as stated above, covered by the
posterior prolongation of the pronotum. Beneath there are seven sub-
quadrangular plates, situated opposite to the seven middle upper seg-
ments. The posterior seements enclose another piece bearing two spine-
like abdominal appendages—one on each side. The ovipositor is as
long as the abdomen, and entirely smooth. The base of the antennz
is situated above the eyes, and inserted upon an angular movable piece.
The joints composing these organs are very short, and provided with
minute sete. The tibize are provided: with four rows of spines, two
anterior and two posterior; the internal posterior row being the
stoutest. The posterior rows are more: densely set with spines, whilst
the latter are scattered and alternate with each other in the anterior
rows. ‘The first and cordate joint of the tarsi is the longest ; the second
is the shortest; and from the middle of the third, a fourth slender and
long joint arises, slightly convex above, and terminating in two spines
or claws curved inwards and outwards.

The ground-color above and below is yellowish ; the antennz, limbs,
and ovipositor are of a reddish purple. The posterior margin of the
pronotum is black. Two parallel black vittze, enclosing a narrow yellow
one, are observed on each side of the dorsal Ime, upon the posterior
third of the pronotum. The posterior portion of the upper abdominal
segments is occasionally of a deep-brown hue.

This species differs from Anabrus simplex, Hald., by a proportionally
much shorter pronotum.

One specimen, caught June 27th, is recorded as “green and white.”

Plate XV, fig. 5, represents Anabrus haldemani in a profile view and
of the size of life.

Fig. 6 is a front view of the head.

Fig. 7, a tarsus from. above:.

Fig. 8, a tarsus from. below..

260 APPENDIX F.—ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS.

Tif, BRACHYPEPLUS, Charp.

Gen. cuar.—Body acrydoid; elytra and wings rudimentary; antennz
rather short ; pronotum tricarinated ; surface between the carine granu-
lated. Second joint of tarsi very short; first and third elongated ; last

one terminating by two curved claws, between which is situated a sub-
circular fleshy disk.

Syv.—Brachypeplus, Charp. Orth. deser. et pict. Fasc. IX, 1843,
Tab. li.

Oss.—This genus, established by Toussaint de Charpentier in his
Orthoptera descripta et picta, was not characterized, owing, perhaps,
to the fact that one species only was known and described by him
under the name of B. virescens, said to inhabit “ Mexico.” It may easily
be distinguished from the one we shall describe by its much shorter
antenne and slenderer tarsi; also by its color, which is deep-green, with
a few brown spots on the pronotum, and a double series of these along
the upper part of the abdomen.

3. BrRaAcHyPEPLUS MAGNUS, Girard.
Zoo.ioey, Pl. XV, fig. 1-4.

Spec. cHar.—Reddish brown; elytra dotted with black; antennz
bluish brown; femora and tibiz reddish; tarsi purplish; spines black
towards tip; femora sub-fusiform; a carima along the upper and middle
region of the abdomen.

Descriretion.—The pronotum is one-third of the length of the abdo-
men, overlapping posteriorly the anterior abdominal segment entirely
and half of the second. The entire number of abdominal segments or
articulations is eleven, carinated upon their medial line, and continuing
the medial carina of the pronotum all along the middle region of the
abdomen above. Antenne a little longer than the pronotum, and com-
posed of about twenty short joints. The tibiz are shorter than the
femora, and provided, the two anterior pairs internally, and the posterior
pair externally, with two rows of spines, the inner row the strongest.
The femora are sub-fusiform; the posterior ones a little broader than
thick, but never as much compressed as in B. virescens, in which these
organs present sharp edges. The tarsi are all tetramerous: the first
article is the stoutest and the longest, the second being quite short;

APPENDIX F.—ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 961

the third is more slender, and the fourth the smallest, terminating into
two curved spines or claws, between which is a subcircular fleshy disk.
The rudimentary elytra are subovoidal, not extending backwards to the
posterior margin of the third abdominal segment.

The ground-color, as preserved upon specimens in alcohol, is yellowish
brown; black dots and spots are scattered over the rudimentary elytra.
The antennz are bluish brown; the femora and tibiz reddish, and the
tarsi purplish, whilst the spines are black.

This species differs from B. virescens by its proportionally longer
antenne, shorter pronotum, and less compressed femora. The general
shape of the body is in every respect proportionally longer than in the
latter species.

Two specimens were collected on the 7th of July—one “green,” the
other “reddish brown.”

Plate XV, fig. 1, represents Brachypeplus magnus in natural size.

Fig. 2, front view of the head.

Fig. 3, a tarsus from above.

Fig. 4, same from below.

We refer to Brachypeplus virescens two specimens; one collected on
the 12th of June, and which was “green above, white beneath, with
yellow and black stripes on the back;” another specimen, a little
smaller, caught June 21st, was “green and brown.”

262 APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS.

ARACHNIDIANS,

BY CHARLES GIRARD.
I. ARANEIDZA.

1. Mye@aLe HENtTz1, Girard.
Zoo.oey, Pl. XVI, 1-3.

Spec. cHAR.—Blackish brown; densely studded with hairs. Cepha-
lothorax subcircular, with a median and transversely elliptical infundi-
bulum upon its posterior half, whence shallow grooves radiate towards
the periphery. Abdomen ovoid. Palpi composed of five joints be-
sides the maxillz, a hook in the male. Legs six-jointed.

Descriprion.—This species is one of the largest of the genus hitherto
found within the limits of the United States. The specimen figured,
however, is much below the usual size. The cephalothorax is subcireu-
lar in shape, a little broader in the male than in the female. The
eyes are disposed as in fig. 3, on a little eminence near the anterior
margin, and upon the midial line. On the posterior half of the
same region, on a line with the eyes, is a transverse infundibulum, some-
times subcrescentic, convex posteriorly. Shallow and sometimes irregu-
lar grooves radiate from that centre towards the margin of the cephalo-
thorax. The abdomen is ovoid; considerably larger in the female than
in the male. The labrum is quite small. The chelicerz are robust,
regularly arched, terminated by a rather slender hook, similarly curved,
and movable upon the chelicere. The palpi are six-jointed; the basal
joint, functioning as maxilla, is robust, and not otherwise distinguished
from the following, except that it is provided along its inner margin
with a brush-like series of hairs. The second joint is very short;
the third is the longest; the fourth is a little larger than the second;
the fifth a little shorter than the third; the fourth shorter than the fifth;
the sixth is the size of the second, but differently shaped, being rounded
at its extremity, at the inferior surface of which exists a hook, very stout
at the base, tapering into an acute point curved downwards and out-
wards. In the female the sixth joint of the palpi is as long and of the
same shape as the fifth, and deprived of the hook. The fourth pair of
legs is the longest; the first pair comes next; the second pair is the
smallest. They are all six-jointed, the first joint short and robust.

APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS. 963

The second joint is the longest; the third the smallest; the fifth is, after
the second, the next in length; then the fourth, and finally the sixth.
The external pair of fusi, or spinning apparatus, is slender, and, as usual,
three-jointed; the internal pair is very small, and not conspicuous.
The whole surface of the body and legs, above and below, is densely
covered with fine setose hairs. The color is uniform blackish brown.

The Mygale henizii is the large black spider known in the Southwest
as the tarantula, where its bite is greatly dreaded.

A female specimen was collected on the 17th of May, on an open,
barren prairie between Camps 2 and 8. Other specimens of both sexes
were taken on the 28th of June, near the head of south fork of Red
river.

Plate XVI, fig. 1 represents Mygale hentzit seen from above. Fig.
2 is an underview to exhibit the labrum (1), the maxille (m), the
chelicerze (c), and the palpi (p), also to show the fusi (f). Fig. 3 rep-
resents the disposition of the ocelli. |

2. Lycosa pitosa, Girard.
Zoouoey, Pl. XVI, figs. 4 and 5.

Spec. cHAR.—Hairs of a yellowish brown color, covering the upper
parts. Beneath black; cephalothorax subpyriform; abdomen ovoid.
Palpi composed of five joints besides the maxilla; terminal joint pro-
vided beneath with two small spines. Legs very long and slender; ail
six-jointed.

Descriprion.—Of all the American Zycosa hitherto described the
present species is the one in which the legs are the longest and the
most slender. The size of the cephalothorax and abdomen is propor-
tionally smaller, however, than in ZL. fatifera, Hentz.

The cephalothorax is longer than broad, elevated on its middle region,
and anteriorly very prominent; subpyriform in its general outline; ‘the
narrowest part directed forwards. Its surface, when freed from its fur,
exhibits shallow grooves radiating from the centre towards the periphery,
pretty much in the same manner as in the Mygale just described,
although much less conspicuous. There is no central infundibulum,
which is replaced here by a minute longitudinal furrow about a tenth
of an inch in length. The abdomen is ovoid, and, as usual, larger in
the female than in the male.

The chelicerze are stout, with a very slight downwards inflexion,
provided with small protuberances upon the inner margin of its anterior
extremity, and terminated by a slender hook curved inwardly. The

264 APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS.

labrum is comparatively small, whilst the mavxille are stout. The
palpi are slender, and composed of five joints. The first joint is very
small, inconspicuous; the second is the longest and the most slender of
all; the third is somewhat larger than the first, the fourth larger than
the third, and the fifth larger than the fourth, which is swollen and sub-
concave beneath, provided with two minute hooks inserted upon two
tubercles. In the female the palpi are slenderer than in the male, and
the last joint is simple and longer than the third. The legs are long
and slender, composed of six joints: the hind pair is the longest; the
first pair is the next in length; the third pair is the shortest. The
third joint is the smallest in the four pairs; the first joint is the next in
length, and the stoutest; the second pair is the longest in the three
anterior pair; the fifth comes next, then the fourth and sixth. In the
posterior pair the fifth joint is the longest; then the second; then the
fourth and sixth. The fusi, four in number, are short, intimately
grouped, and composed of a single joint. The whole surface of the
body and legs, above and below, is densely covered with short hairs.

The color above is uniform grayish brown. The abdomen, cephalo-
thorax, and first joint of legs beneath, are deep black. The second,
third, and fourth joints are of the color of the upper parts upon their
middle, and black near their articulations. The fifth and sixth joints are
almost entirely black. The extremity of the chelicerze and palpi are
black beneath, When the hairy covering is removed, the color is
a uniform chestnut-brown.

The color may present some variations; thus in the notes of Captain
Marcy, one is described as having “the back brown, belly dirty white,
head and legs red.”

One specimen preserved in alcohol exhibits a reddish band down the
middle of the cephalothorax, and two black vittee, one on each side of
the abdomen. The cephalothorax beneath is reddish; and on the
abdomen there are two elliptical light spots.

Specimens were collected the 16th of May on the open prairie, between
Camps 1 and 2; and on the 19th of June, on Canadian river, Arkansas.

Plate XVI, fig. 4, represents the trophi, showing the labrum (1), the
maxille (m), the palpi (p), and cheliceree (c). Fig. 5 exhibits. the
disposition of the ocelli.

APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS. 265

Il. TARANTULIDZ.

THELYPHONUS EXcUBITOR, Girard.

Zooroey, Pl. XVII, fig. 1-4.

Spec. cuar.—Blackish brown above, deep chestnut beneath; upper
surface of body and legs minutely granular; beneath smooth, with scat-
tered minute imprinted dots. First and second articles of the palpi
very granular, remaining ones with a few granules and numerous im-
printed dots. Caudal appendage very much developed, and composed
of about fifty joints.

Description.—There is a very great resemblance between this species
and 7’. giganteus.* The only striking difference which exists between
them is to be found in the structure of the palpi and in the length of
the caudal appendage.

The cephalothorax is elongated, narrowest anteriorly, where it assumes
- almost a triangular shape. Its posterior margin is subtruncated, slightly
concave in the middle. The central portion of the anterior third of
the cephalothorax presents a perfectly plane surface, with a medial
furrow, as it were; whilst posteriorly it is depressed, and sloping towards
the margins, the surface showing shallow depressions, one upon the
middle line, and more regular than the lateral ones. Near the anterior
extremity, and in a subcircular depression on each side of a medial,
smooth, and rounded elevation, are found the ocelli, circular, large
and black. In advance of these ocelli, the rostrum is almost abruptly
truncated, as seen in the centre of fig. 3. From the anterior ocelli to
the lateral ones extends a linear series of granules, terminating upon
the tuberculous elevations, upon which are seen three yellowish ocelli
grouped, as exhibited in fig. 2.

The chelicerze are robust, but very slightly bent, composed of one large
joint and a conical, curved, and acute spine; to the inner side of which
are attached brushes of quite elongated and reddish sete. Palpi long
and robust, in the shape of arms, and composed of six joints. The first
joint is seen only from below (fig. 4, a), and exhibits a subtriangular and
flat surface, terminated anteriorly by a conical point. The second joint
is smaller than the first, scarcely to be seen viewed from below, but
developed upon its upper surface into a flattened and irregular disk,

*See Guérin’s Magazin de Zoologie, 1835, Class VIII, for an illustrated mono-
graph of the genus Thelyphonus by H. Lucas.

266 APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS.

provided upon its anterior margin with five conical spines, varying in
size: seen in front (fig. 3, b), it is elevated almost vertically from the
horizontal position of the first. The third joint is the longest of all,
slightly curved, and provided inwardly with two minute spines—one
above, the other below. The fourth joint is somewhat shorter than the
third, but is much longer than broad, subcylindrical, slightly bent, and
provided at its inner, anterior, and upper edge, with a prominent,
conical, and straight spine. The fifth joint is of the length of the
fourth, but slenderer, and provided anteriorly with a stout and shorter
spine. Finally, the sixth joint is a subconical and spiny processus,
moving against the spine of the fifth joint, constituting a forceps, and
used as such to seize prey. The thoracic appendages (feet) are long
and slender, especially the anterior and posterior pairs. The anterior
pair may be readily distinguished from the three others, in not being
provided with hooks upon their extremity. Its function is rather
that of a pair of palpi than that of ambulatory organs. ‘The first and
second joints are short and stout; the third, fourth, and fifth long and
slender; the fourth and fifth almost equal in length, and longer than the
third. Eight small joints, together equal in length to the third, termi-
nate these appendages. The three others are constructed upon the
same plan, all having nine joints and terminal hooks, generally two
in number. The first, second, and third joints are similar to those of
the anterior pair; the third, however, is the longest; the fourth is but a
little longer though slenderer than the second, and slightly curved ; the
fifth is much slenderer and a little shorter than the third. Next come
four small joints, together smaller in length than the fifth, and provided
upon their anterior margin with minute spines. The second of these
four, or the seventh in the series, is the longest of the four; the third is
the smallest; the first and fourth are equal in length, the latter much
slenderer. Two hook-like and slender spines terminate these organs.

The abdomen is longer than the cephalothorax, oval in shape,
though depressed, and composed of eight very distinct segments and a
half, the anterior one. The stigmatiform bodies are quite conspicuous
above (seven pairs), and below (four pairs). The anterior half segment
is not seen from below. The seventh segment exhibits laterally a second
pair of stigmatiform bodies, less conspicuous, however, than the others,
The posterior segment has also faint traces of an analogous pair. The
two first caudal rings are very narrow; the third is as large as the two
others together. The filiform appendage is very long, and composed of
about fifty joints.

APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS. 267

The upper surface of the cephalothorax and abdomen is covered with
minute granules extending over the palpi, being particularly dense on
the three first articles, and over the three first joints of the thoracic
appendages also. Minute impunctures are seen upon the remaining
articles and joints, and also scattered upon the inferior surface of the
appendages and body. Minute sete are scattered over the appendages
of the cephalothorax and abdomen, more densely towards their extremi-
ties.

The color is uniform blackish brown above, and deep chestnut beneath.

One specimen of this animal was collected.

Plate XVII, fig. 1, represents, seen from above, Thelyphonus excubstor
the size of life.

Fig. 2 gives the position, number, and relative size of the ocelli.

Fig. 3 is a front view, exhibiting in the centre the chelicerze and the
three first articles (a, b, c) of the palpi. |

Fig. 4 represents the anterior portion of the cephalothorax from
below: a, first article, 6, second article, and c, third article of the palpi;
and d, anterior pair of feet.

lit. SCORPIONIDZ.

Although the collections made in the valley of Red river contained
no specimens of this group of arachnides, we have brought them here
to notice, satisfied as we are that they exist in that locality.

Scorpions are found in the southern Atlantic States, all along the
Gulf of Mexico, through Texas and New Mexico to California, and
through Louisiana to Arkansas.

1. Scorrto (TeLEGonvs) Borevs, Girard.

Zoouoey, Pl. XVII, figs. 5-7.

Spec. cHAR.—Body greenish yellow; thoracic and caudal appendages
yellowish. Lateral ocelli in close contiguity ; posterior one the smallest.
Median ocelli situated on the sides of an elongated and black elevation.
Chelicerze terminated by a serrated claw. fPalpi robust, shorter than
the body. Caudal appendage as long as the body, the spine excepted.
Abdominal comb with eighteen laminz.

Descrirtion.—The general form of the body is fusiform, anteriorly
and posteriorly tapering. The cephalothorax proper is subquadrilateral,

268 APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS.

longer than broad, narrower anteriorly than posteriorly; both of these
extremities linear ; lateral margin somewhat undulated. Its surface is
carved with a few undulating grooves, giving to the rest an undulated
appearance; and over the whole, minute granules. The median ocelli
are black, situated a little in advance of the middle of the length of the
thorax, and placed on the sides of an elongated, little, and black emi-
nence, divided longitudinally by a groove. The lateral ocelli are set
close together and situated near the anterior margin of the cephalotho-
rax; the posterior one is much'the smallest: they are represented with
their relative proportions in fig. 7. The chelicere are stout, two-
jointed; the second being the largest, and is terminated by a minutely
serrated claw. The palpi are five-jointed; the first joint is short and
stout, and fulfils the function of jaws without denticulation. The second
is the smallest. The third and fourth are more elongated; the third
a little longer than the fourth. They are angular, the angles being
margined with dense rows of minute granules. The fifth joint or hand
(carpus) is stout and swollen, exhibiting eight undulating ribs (four above
and four below), upon which is a row of minute granules. Two rows
above and below are seen extending along the spiny immovable pro-
cessus of the hand, constituting, with a movable spine, a slender chela or
claw, slightly curved inwards. Scattered setze may be seen on the whole
length of the palpi; and also on the thoracic appendages (feet). The
latter are slender ; the fourth pair is the longest; the first pair the smallest,
the second and third pairs being of intermediate proportions ; the second
longer than the first, and the third longer than the second. They are
all flattened, seven-jointed, and terminated by minute hooks. The third
joint is in every one the longest and most slender; the fifth, sixth, and
seventh are small, the seventh being the smallest of all. There are
generally three terminal hooks; occasionally minute spines may be seen
near the articulation of the sixth and seventh joints. The first joint is
the stoutest, and in the first pair of these appendages it has something
to do with mastication, functioning perhaps as a lower lip. The
abdominal combs are slender and elongated, and composed of a trans-
verse triarticulated piece, and of eighteen little laminz attached to it.
The dorso-abdominal shields, seven in number, increase in size from
forwards backwards, the anterior one being the narrowest of all. Their
surface exhibits minute granules not very conspicuous. There are only
five ventral shields, nearly equal in size; the posterior one somewhat
different in shape, and not provided with stigmata. The caudal ap-
pendage (tail) is as long as the body, and composed of five joints and a
poison bag. The two first joints are the smallest, the fifth being the

APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS. 269

longest; the poison bag is swollen up and provided with a slightly
curved and acute hollow spine. The upper part of each joint is concave
or grooved, whilst the inferior part is convex. They are carinated, and
rows of conspicuous granules are observed along the carine.

The color of the body above is uniform greenish yellow; the thoracic
appendages (feet) are yellowish, whilst the palpi and caudal appendage
(tail) reflect a reddish shade upon the yellow ground.

The’ specimen figured was collected in the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake of Utah, by Capt. Howard Stansbury.

A much smaller specimen was brought from Eagle Pass, Texas, by
Mr. Arthur Schott, of the United States and Mexican boundary.

Plate XVI, fig. 5, represents, size of life, S. (Telegonus) boreus seen
from above.

Fig. 6 is a view from beneath, to show the abdominal combs, first
abdominal segment, and origin of fourth and third pairs of feet.

Fig. 7 represents the distribution of the ocelli.

2. Scorrio (ArREvS) cALiForNicus, Girard.

General form of body and appendages slender when compared to the
preceding species. The tail is almost twice the length of the body; there
is not the same disproportion of length between the first and second joints
and the remaining ones. The carinz and rows of granules are much less
conspicuous. The cephalothorax and dorso-abdominal shields exhibit
carine and rows of granules not only on the palpi, but likewise on the
feet. ows of granules may be seen along the angular projections or
carina. The chelz are much slenderer, the hand (carpus) and poison
bag much smaller. An exceedingly minute spine may be observed on
the poison bag under the sting. The lateral ocelli are situated more
anteriorly, more apart from each other, and equal amongst themselves.
The abdominal combs are composed of twenty laminz.

Color light brown; palpi and tail deeper; upper part of abdomen

lackish, with a median light vitta.

One specimen was collected in California and presented by Dr. Stone
to the Smithsonian Institution.

3. Scorpio (Arreus) savt, Girard.

Syn.— Buthus vittatus, Say, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. II, 1821,
61.

270 APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS.

Upon a close examination of several specimens of this species obtained
from western Florida, we satisfied ourselves that it belongs to the sub-
genus Atreus instead of Buthus,in which it was placed by Thomas Say.
It so happens that the specific name of vittatus has since been given by
Guérin to another South American species of scorpions; and if we pro-
pose here to replace Say’s specific name, against the received law of
priority, we would remark that when full grown, the vitte entirely dis-
appear, and the color becomes uniform deep reddish brown, the legs and
under surface being lighter. In this species the tail is once and a half
the length of the body. The palpi are proportionaily small, and in the
young, exiguous. The chelz are slender, slightly curved, with an undu-
lation at their base, but without marked denticulations. The upper sur-
face is finely granular. There are from thirty to thirty-two lamine to
the abdominal combs. “Fuscous, with three fulvous vittz, sides black,”
applies strictly to the immature state.

Specimens of this species were sent from Pensacola, Florida, to the
Smithsonian Institution, by Dr. Jeffrey, U.S. N., and Dr. J. F. Ham-
mond, U.S. A.

A species very closely allied, if not identical with Scorpio (Atreus)
say, is not uncommon in Texas, where several specimens were collected

by Lieut. D. N. Couch, U.S. A.

IV. PSEUDOSCORPIONIDZ.

OBSERVATIONS UPON GALEODES SUBULATA OF THOMAS Say.

Two species of this genus are described by the same author in Major
Long’s Expedition;* one under the name of Galeodes pallipes, the
other under that of G. subulata, the only difference between them con-
sisting in the structure of the chelicerze, which in G. pallipes are termi-
nated by arcuated claws, armed within with many robust teeth, whilst
in G. subulata the upper claw is nearly rectilinear, and the lower one
alone possessed with two robust teeth.

Having but one individual of this genus at our command, we are not
prepared to decide upon the question of the validity of both species.
The specimen before us answers to Say’s characters of G. subulata; and
being perfectly satisfied that it belongs to the latter species, we propose
to describe it a little more at length than was done by its discoverer.

*Account of an expedition from Pittsburg to the Rocky Mountains, performed
in the years 1819 and ’20. Vol. II, 1823, p. 3.

APPENDIX F.—ARACHNIDIANS. 971

The entire length, from the tip of the chelicere to the end of the
abdomen, is ‘one inch and a quarter, the abdomen itself forming about
one-half of that length. The cephalothorax is composed of three dis-
tinct segments; the anterior one much the largest, giving points of
attachment to the parts of the mouth, to the palpi, and the two anterior
pairs of legs; to the second thoracic segment is attached the third pair
of legs, and to the third segment the fourth pair. The anterior segment
of cephalothorax, seen from above, is subrhomboidal and smooth. At
its anterior margin are situated the two ocelli, separated from each
other by a deep groove. The chelicere are very stout, and composed
of one single joint densely covered with setose hairs, and terminated
each by two spines, one above (finger of some authors), rigid, and
another below (the thumb), moving vertically against the upper. The
latter is compressed, acute, almost rectilinear, and smooth; the inferior
one is subconical, curved upwards, acute towards the point, and pro-
vided at its base inwardly with two spiny small processes. The palpi
are proportionally robust, stouter and longer than the three anterior
pairs of legs; somewhat shorter than the fourth pair, but of a stouter
appearance, as all the joints, four in number (the maxillz excepted),
preserve the same diameter. They are covered on their whole length
with hairs similar to those on the chelicerze. The maxille are subtri-
angular, provided only with brushes of hairs. The next joint (the joint
of the palpi) is very small and triangular; the second is the longest ;
the third is the next in length; then the fourth, the tip of which ex-
hibits a minute smooth tuberculiform knob. The first pair of legs is
the most slender of the thoracic appendages, and about the length of
the third pair; the basal joint is quite short; the second is the shortest
of all; the third is the longest; the fourth, fifth, and sixth smaller in
the order enumerated. The last joint terminates like the palpi, bluntly.
This anterior pair of legs is called by some second pair of palpi, upon
the ground that their structure is most alike. The three remaining pairs
of thoracic appendages are seven-jointed, thus composed of one joint
more than in the first pair and palpi, and furthermore terminated by
two minute curved claws. The first, second, and third joints are short,
stoutish, and subequal; the remaining are longer and slenderer, the
feurth being the longest, and the other diminishing gradually. They
are covered upon their whole length with hairs similar to those which
cover the palpi, but perhaps less densely so. The abdomen is subovoid,
being a little depressed; it is densely hairy above and below, and com-
posed, as usual, of nine segments or annuli.

Collected on June the 10th.

272 APPENDIX F.—MYRIAPODS.

MYRIAPODS.

BY CHARLES GIRARD.

1. ScoLoPENDRA HEROS, Girard.
Zoo.oey, Pl. XVIII.

SPEC, CHAR.—Twenty-one pairs of grallatory appendages, composed
of five segments or articulations, and a conical terminal spine, more or
less curved. Back bicarinated; beneath, flat and grooved. Antenne
composed of twenty-five joints; color uniform dark-reddish brown;
lighter beneath.

Description.—The general form of the body is depressed, subcon-
cave above, flat beneath. It is composed of twenty-one annuli, seements
or rings, each of which bears one pair of locomotory appendages,
(feet). The middle region of the back presents a slight double carina
and last segment. The intermediate area is rather flattened, whilst each
running parallel the whole length of the body, very faint on the first
side is gently sloping towards the exterior margin. A¢ the inferior
surface, two longitudinal furrows or grooves may be scen extending the
whole length of the body, and dividing the abdominal disk into three
almost equal parts. The stigmata are transversely elongated, and
situated immediately beneath the lateral margin of the dorsal shields of
each segment. The insertion of the locomotory appendages takes
place immediately above the lateral margin of the abdominal shields of
each segment. The locomotory appendages are as numerous as the
segments of the body—twenty-one pairs constructed alike; that is to say,
composed of five joints and a curved terminal spine. A minute spine
may occasionally be seen at the anterior margin of the fourth and fifth
jomts. The third and fourth joints are longer than the first and
second; the fifth is always the smallest : these organs are tapering rapidly
towards their extremity. In the caudal pair, the first and second arti-
cles or joints are longer than the third and fourth; the first one is,
moreover, provided with a spiny process along its inner margin. Its
general shape and directing distinguishes it, likewise, from all the other
pairs.

APPENDIX F.—MYRIAPODS. 973

The second segment is quite short, the shortest of all, and contrasts
strangely with the others, which preserve regular proportions, gradually
diminishing from the middle of the length towards both extremities,
with but few exceptions. The first segment or ring is one of these,
being the shortest after the second; its anterior margin is subcrescentic,
the concavity of which receives the cephalic shield or disk (head).
Besides the anterior pair of locomotory appendages, it gives a point of
attachment to a pair of robust and two-jointed forceps, functioning as a
pair of jaws for seizing and holding the prey. The central piece is
large and subtriangular, the anterior margin of which is denticulated,
(the second lip of some authors). That second or external lip (labrum)
is formed by the union of two pieces, which are separate in the young,
where they constitute a third joint to the forceps-jaws, the second lip
then being also separate, and existing as a limina already denticulated
anteriorly. The next joint is short and stout; the second is a conical
and tapering spine, curved inwardly and perforated, as it is well known
for the passage of a venomous fluid, not otherwise dangerous.

The cephalic disk itself, seen from above, is subcircular in shape, pro-
jecting slightly between the antennz, and showing upon its surface traces
of the dorsal carinz alluded to above. To its inferior surface we find
attached two pairs of mandibles and one pair of palpi. In proceeding
from outwards inwards, we will find immediately behind the forceps
jaws the palpi (little feet, sometimes called), composed of four flattened
joints and a minute, curved, and terminal hook. They are united at
their base by the means of two additional central pieces. The second
joint is the longest, and slightly bent. The exterior pair of mandibles,
the one next to the palpi, is composed of four joints, the first being
almost as long as the three remaining ones; the fourth is rounded, pre-
senting an inner concave surface with a sharp terminal margin. They
are united upon their middle by a lanceolated ligula. The inner pair of
mandibles is composed of two pieces; the first irregularly shaped, the
second subcircular concave, subcircular and margined anteriorly by
small spines, four or five in number, constituting a denticulated
margin.

In the anterior margin of the cephalic disk are inserted the antenne,
composed of twenty-five joints gradually diminishing in thickness, and
increasing in length towards the extremity, which is filiform. Exteri-
orly to the antennz, and close to the margin of the disk, are situated
the ocelli, four on each side, as usual in the genus, and disposed as rep-
resented in figure 5.

18

974 APPENDIX F.—MYRIAPODS.

The inferior surface of the last ring differs from the others in haying
a much smaller shield, and in being provided on each side with a stout,
subconical spine, directed backwards.

An immature specimen, one-third of the length of the one figured,
has the same number of segments or annuli, the same number of feet,
and the same general structure.

One individual of this species was collected, on the 15th of June at
Sweet-water creek ; others were found in July, between the south fork of
Red river and Otter creek.

Plate XVIII, fig. 1, represents Scolopendra heros size of life, seen
from above.

Fig. 2. The head from below.

Fig. 3. Posterior extremity, from below.

Fig. 4. A medial segment to show the attachment of feet-

Fig. 5. Disposition of ocelli on left side.

2. JuLUS ornatus, Girard.

Spec. cuar.—Ground-color bluish black; segments narrowly mar-
gined posteriorly with reddish; anterior margin of segments rather
blue, whilst the middle is rather black, thus giving the appearance of
three rings of color. The anterior portion, which is covered by the
articulation, is fulvous. Feet deep chestnut-brown. Antenne rufous
at base, blackish at tip. Stigmata not conspicuous; marked by a series
of small, obsolete blackish spots.

REMARKS.—This species is allied to Julus marginatus of Say, but its
body is proportionally much stouter. The ocelli are disposed upon a
subtriangular space quite different in shape. The antennz themselves
are slenderer in proportions. The labrum (upper lip) is also less emargi-
nated than in Julus marginatus, and the marginal punctures much less
conspicuous.

One specimen was collected, on the 27th of June.

3. JuLUS ATRATUS, Girard.

Spec. cuAr.—Body, feet, and antennz, uniform deep blackish brown;
antennz and feet occasionally reddish, as also the labrum and anterior
margin of first segment. Posterior third of each segment of a shining
black. Stigmata and lateral striz beneath quite conspicuous,

APPENDIX F.—MYRIAPODS. 275

RemArks.—Resembles more Julus ornatus than Julus marginatus
in the general proportions of the body, but in the structure of the
antenne and labrum comes nearer to Julus marginatus.

Specimens of this species were collected at Prairie Mer Rouge. Louisi-
ana, by James Fairie, Esq., and sent to the Smithsonian Institution.

A ine “vali

id an nly a 7

APPENDIX G.

BOTANY

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DURING THE EXPE-
DITION: BY DR. JOHN TORREY.

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APPENDIX G.

BOTANY.

BY JOHN TORREY, M. D.

No. 96, Sr. Marr’s Piace, New Yorks,
August, 10, 1853.
Dear Sir: I have examined the collection of plants that you
brought from the headwaters of the Red river, towards the Rocky
mountains. The flora of this region greatly resembles that of the upper
portion of the Canadian. It is remarkable that there occur among your
plants several species that were first discovered by Dr. James, in Long’s
Expedition, and have not been found since until now. Your collection
is an interesting addition to the geography of North American plants,
and serves to mark more clearly the range of many western species.
For particular remarks on the rarer plants, and descriptions of the new
species, I refer you to the accompanying list.
At your request I have had some of the rarer plants drawn and en-
grayed, to illustrate your report to Congress.
I am, dear sir,
Yours truly,
JOHN TORREY.
Captain R. B. Marcy.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

to
op)
i=)

RANUNCULACEA,

Crematis Pironenrt, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 10. Witchita Mountains ;
fl. and fr. July 17. ’
ANEMONE Caro.intana, Walt.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 12. Sources

of the Trinity River; May 3.
Detpxrnium AzureuM, Michx.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 32. Main Fork
of the Red River; fl. May 8—June 16.

PAPAVERACEA,

ArGemMone Mexicana, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 61. Common
on the upper waters of the Red River; May—June 16.

CRUCIFER A.

VESICARIA ANGUSTIFOLIA, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 101; Gray,
Pl]. Lindh. 2, p. 145. Sources of the Trinity River; fl. and fr. May 3.

V. STENOPHYLLA, Gray, Pl. Lindh. 2, p. 149; and Pl. Wright. 1, p. 10,
and 2, p. 13. North Fork of the Red River; fr. June 14.

Dirnyr2a Wis.izent, Engelm., in Wisliz. N. Mex., p. 95; Gray, Pl.
Wright. 1, p. 10, and 2, p. 14. Abundant on the headwaters of the
Red River; June 23—July 14.

The specimens of this plant collected: by Captain Marcy vary con-
siderably in the leaves, which are often nearly entire. The flowers also
vary in size; the petals being sometimes nearly one-third of an inch in
lenoth. ‘The silicles are larger than in specimens collected in New
Mexico by Mr. Wright and Dr. Edwards. They are by no means always
deeply emarginate at the base, and sometimes they are slightly notched
at the summit.

SrREPTANTHUS HYACINTHOIDES, Hook., in Bot. Mag., t. 3516; Torr.
and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 78; Gray, Gen. Il, t. 61. Witchita Mountains to
the boundary of the Choctaw Nation; fl. May 31—June 4.

CAPPARIDACE.

PoLANIsIA GRAVEOLENS, Raf.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 123, and Suppl.
p. 669. Witchita Mountains; fl. and fr. July 16. The pods are on a
short stipe, and the seeds are more or less rough.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 281

CARYOPHYLLACEA.

Srtenp Antirnruina, Linn., Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 191. On the
Main Fork of the Red River; fl. May 8.

Paxonycuia Jamesu, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 170; Gray, Pl. Fendl.,
p- 14. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. May 22.

?

PORTULACACEA.

TALINUM TERETIFOLIUM, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 365; Gray, Gen. IIL, t. 98.
Middle Fork of Red River; fl. May 22, fr. July 5.

MALVACEAE.

MALvVAsTRUM CoccINEUM, Gray, Gen. Ill, t. 121; Pl. Fendl., p. 24.
Malva coccinea, Nutt. Sida coccinea, DC.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 235.
North Fork of Red River, &e.

CALLIRRH@ INvoLucRATA, Gray, Pl. Fendl., p. 15, and Gen. Ill, t.
117. Malva involucrata, Torr. and Gr., Fl., p. 226. Middle Fork of
Red River; fl. May 22.

C pDIGITATA, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2,p. 181; Gray, lc. Fort
Belknap.

LINACE.

Linum Bervanpiert, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3480; Engelm. in Gray, Pl.
Wright. 2, p. 25. Cache creek, and Cross-Timbers of the Red River ;
May.

L. Boorru, Plauch., in Lond. Jour. Bot. 7, p- 475; Engelm. 1. c.
Witchita Mountains; fl. and fr. July 17.

OXALIDACEA.

Oxauis viotacna, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 211. Headwaters
of the Trinity River; April 25.

O. stricta, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1.c. With the preceding.

2982 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

GERANIACE.

Geranium CaroLinranvm, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 207. Head-
waters of the Trinity, and on Cache Creek; April—May.

ZANTHOXYLACEA.

Pretea trirouara, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 215; 4. mollis.
Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, Suppl. p. 680. Common on the headwaters of the
Red River; fr. June 16.

ANACARDIACE4:.

Ruvus tritopara, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 218; Gray PI.
Fendl., p. 28. On the Middle and North Forks of the Red River; in
fruit June 1-16.

R. Toxicopenproy, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., 1.c. With the preceding
in fruit only.

VITACEA.

Viris RUPERTRIS, Scheele, in Linnza, 21, p. 591; Gray, Pl. Lindh.,
2, p. 165. Witchita Mountains; abundant. The fruit was immature,
but had attained nearly its full size in the middle of July. They are
said to be ripe in August, when they are about the size of large peas,
of a deep purple color, and agreeable to the taste. This species much
resembles the summer grape of the Atlantic States.

SAPINDACEAL.

Sapinpus MarGinatus, Willd.; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1, 255; Gray,
Gen. Ill., 2,t. 180. Main Fork of Red River.

This is generally known in Texas and Arkansas by the name of Wild
China. It is a tree, and attains the height of 20 feet, with a trunk
10 inches in diameter. The wood is of a yellow color.

POLYGALACEA.

PotyeaLa arpa, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 87; Gray, Pl. Wright. 1, p. 38.
P. Beyrichii, Torr, and Gy,, Fl. 1, p. 670. On Suydam Creek, North
Fork of Red River; fl. June 6.

a el
OS

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 983

P. rmvcarnata, Linn.; Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 129. Tributaries of the
Washita River; fi. and fr. July 23. This species has not hitherto been
found so far west.

KRAMERIACE.

KRAMERIA LANCEOLATA, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 168;
Gray, Gen. Ill, 2, t. 185. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on the
Middle Fork of the Red River; fl. May 4-22.

LEGUMINOS 2.

Vicia MicrantHA, Nutt.,in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.271. Cache Creek
and Middle Fork of Red River; fl. and fr. May 16-22.

ReYNCHOSIA TOMENTOSA, var. volubslis, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 285.
Tributaries of the Washita River; fl. July 26.

Tepurosta Vireiniana, Pers.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.295. Witchita
Mountains and upper waters of Red River; fl. June 4, fr. July 23.

Guiycrrruiza LeEPIDoTA, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 106; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.
298. Main and North Forks of the Red River; fl. June 6, fr. June 26.

INDIGOFERA LEPTOSEPALA, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. With
the preceding; fl. May 26—June 6.

PSORALEA ESCULENTA, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475, t. 22. Mouth of Cache
Creek, and Witchita Mountains; May.

P. arGopuyiia, Pursh, Fl. 2, p.475; Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2, p. 136,
t. 53. North and Middle Forks of Red River; fl. May 26-31.

P. FrLoripunDA, Nutt.,in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 300. Sources of the
Red River; fl. June 2-9.

PETALOSTEMON VIOLACEUM, Michx., Fl. 2, p. 50, t.37, £2; Torr and Gr.,
Fl. 1, p. 310. With the preceding; June 2-7.

PETALOSTEMON GRACILE, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 92; Torr
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 309. Cache Creek; May 18.

P. mouttirtorum, Nutt., |. ¢.; Torr. and Gr.,].c. On the Witchit
Mountains; fi. and fr. July 15.

984 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

PETALOSTEMON viILLosum, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 85; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.
310. Cache Creek; June 14; flowers not yet expanded.

Datea Aurea, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 308;
Gray, Pl. Wright. 2, p. 41. Main Fork of Red River; fl. July 5.

D. ranara, Spreng, Syst. 3, p. 327. D. lanuginosa, Nutt., in Torr.
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 307. Big Witchita and on the Main Fork of the
Red River; fl. June 27,

D. taxtFLora, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 741; Nutt., Gen. 2, p.101; Torr. and
Gr. Fl. 1, p. 307. D. pencillata, Moricand, Pl. Nouv. Amer., t. 45.
Common on all the upper waters of the Red River; May-July.

AMORPHA CANESCENS, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 92; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.
306. Witchita Mountains; fl. May 30.

Astracatus Nurraruianvs, DC. Prodr. 2, p. 289; Torr. and Gr. 2,

p. 2384. Upper waters of the Red River; fl. and fr. May 5. ane flowers
are larger than usual in this species.

A. caryocarpus, Ker. Bot. Reg., t. 176; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 331.
Headwaters of the Trinity. May 2; in flower only.

Oxyrropis Lamperti, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 740; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p.
339. With the preceding; fl. in May.

DESMODIUM SESSILIFOLIUM, Torr and Gr. 1, p. 8363. Witchita Mount-
aims. The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy are in
a state of remarkable fasciatcon. The branches of the panicle are coa-

lesced, (sometimes almost to the summit,) into a broad flat mass, which
is covered with sessile flowers and fruit.

Crrrorta Marrana, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 290; Torr., Fl.
N. York, 1, p. 163, t. 24. On the Washita; fl. July 27.

BaprisiA Austrais, R. Br.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 885. Sources
of the Red River; fl. and fr. June 6-10.

B, vevcopnma, Nutt., Gen. 1, p. 282; Torr. and Gr., 1]. c. Common
on the upper tributaries of the Red River; fl. April, fr. May.

HorrMaxsecoi1a Jamest, Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 2983; Gray, Pl.
Lindh. 2, p.178. ‘With the preceding; fl. and fr. June 14-24.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 285

Cassia Cuamaorisra, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 895. Tribu-
taries of the Washita; fl. July 22.

Souranxra uncinata, Willd.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 400. Mouth
of Medicine River, &c.; fl. April.

Acacia tuTeA, Leavenw.; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 403. On the
Witchita Mountains; fl. and fr. July 14. The leaves are remarkably
sensitive.

ROSACEA.

SANGUISORBA ANNUA, Nutt.,in Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 429. Pote-
rium annuum, Hook. Fl. Bor.—Am. 1, p. 198.

ONAGRACEAL,

CENOTHERA RHOMBIPETALA., Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 493;
Kunze, in Linnea, 20, p. 57. Main Fork of Red River; fl. June 24.
&

QE. stnvata, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl.1, p.294. Witchita Mountains
and upper tributaries of the Red River; May-June.

CE. speciosa, Nutt.,in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p.119; Torr. and Gr.,
Fl. 1.c. Big Witchita; fl. May 8. Middle Fork of the Red River; fr.
June 21.

CH. LAVANDUL@FOLTIA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501; Hook. Lond. Jour.
Bot. 6, p. 223, Gray, Pl. Wright. 1, p. 72. Big Witchita and North
Fork of Red River; fl. May 8, fr. June 6. The leaves in all our speci-
mens of this rare species are nearly glabrous, about one inch and a half
long, and 2-3 lines wide, with the apex rather acute. The fruit is well

described by Hooker, (I. ¢.)

CE. sERRULATA, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 246; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501.
Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River; May—June.

GavurA coccrnza, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 249; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 518.
North Fork of Red River; fl. June 6.

G. vitLosa, Torr. Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 200; Torr. and Gr., FI. 1,
p- 518; Gray, Pl. Wright, 1, p. 73. Witchita Mountains; fr. July 14.
The ripe fruit is not always reflexed. It is (including the stipe) about

286 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

7 lines long, ovate, strongly tetraquetrous, abruptly contracted at the
base, and 2—4-seeded: the seeds more or less imbricated.

LOASACEAL,

MenrzEL1a NuDA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1 p. 585; Gray, Pl. Fendl., p.
47, and Pl. Wright. 1, p. 73; Bartonia nuda, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 297.
Witchita Mountains; fl. June 22.

CUCURBITACE.

CucURBITA PERENNIS, Gray, Pl. Lindh. 2, p. 193; and Wright. Pl.
2,p.60. C. fetidissima, H. B. and Kunth? Cucumis perennis, James,
in Long’s Exped. 2, p. 20; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 543. North fork of
the Platte; fl. June 6. Although the cultivated plant seems to be
dicecious not unpleasant to the smell, Mr. Wright says, (wde Gray,
1. c.) that in a wild state it is “ certainly monoccious, and exhales an un-
pleasant smell when bruised ;” so that it does not differ from the deserip-
tion of C. fetidissima, except that the latter is said by Kunth to be an
annual, which may be a mistake. The flowers are as large as those of
the common pumpkin. *

Sicybium, sp. noy.? Fruit 14 inch in diameter, globose, sessile.
Seeds 4 larger than in S. Lindheimeri, and more turgid. On the Main

Fork of Red River; fr. July 11.

GROSSULACE Ai.

Rises aureum, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 164; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 552.
North Fork of Red River; fr. June 4.

UMBELLIFER i.

ERYNGIUM DIFFUSUM, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 207; Torr.
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 6038. Witchita Mountains; fil. June 14. This rare
species has not been found before, since it was first discovered by Dr.
James, more than thirty years ago. It is rather doubtful whether it is
diffuse, except, perhaps, when it is old. The specimens of Captain
Marcy are less branched than the original one from which the description
in the Flora of North America was drawn.

LeprocavLis Ecuinatus, Nutt., in DC. Prodr. 4, p. 107; Torr. and
Gr., Fl. 1, p. 609. Headwaters of the Trinity; April 2.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 987

. Potyrzyia Nurrartu, DC. Umb., p. 53, t. 18, and Prodr. 4, p.
196; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 533. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. June
1. Witchita Mountains; fr. July 16.

Euvryrznia Texana, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 633. Main Fork of
Red River; fr. June 11. This plant has hitherto been found only by
the late Mr. Drummond, who discovered it in Texas more than twenty
years ago. It is an annual, about two feet high; the fine striz of the
stem and branches are roughened upward, with minute points. The
umbels are compound and spreading. Flowers minute. Petals white,
broadly orbicular, waved on the margin, deeply emarginate, with an in
flexed point. Fruit about one-third larger than in Drummond’s Texan
specimen.

RUBIACE &.

OLDENLANDIA ANGUSTIFOLIA, Gray, Pl. Wright. 2, p. 68. Houstonia
angustifolia, Mich. Fl. 1, p. 85; Hedyotes stenophylla, Torr. and Gr.,
Fl. 2,p.41. Tributaries of the Main Fork of Red River; fi. May—
June.

VALERIANACE “3.

FepIA RADIATA, B. LEIOCARPA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 52. Upper
Red River.

COMPOSIT:.

Liarris squarrosa, Willd.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 68; Sweet Fl.
Gard., t. 44, Tnbutaries of the Washita River; fl. July 22-24.

L. acrpota, Engelm. and Gray, Pl. Lindh., p. 10; Gray Pl. Wright.
1, p. 83. L. mucronata, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 70; not of D.C. On
the Washita; July 27.

Sotmaco opora, Nutt.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 219. Witchita
Mountains; July 16.

S. Missovrrensis, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 7, p. 32, and Trans.
Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 327; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p.222. With
the preceding.

ARTEMISIA FILIFOLIA, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 211; Torr.
and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 417. Upper tributaries of the Red River; May. An

288 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

abundant shrub, of a grayish white aspect, with numerous branches, and
crowded, slender leaves. This is one of the numerous species called sage
by the hunters. It is found from the plains of the Upper Missouri to the
Valley of the Rio Grande, and west to the Colorado.

Acuittea Mitrero.ium, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 409. With
the preceding. It is the woolly form that almost exclusively occurs
west of the Mississippi.

ZINNIA GRANDIFLORA, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p.
348; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 298; Torr. in Emory’s Rep., t.4, Gray, Pl.
Fendl., p. 81. Main Fork of Red River; fil. July 2.

RmvELLiA TAGETINA, Nutt. 1. c., p.371; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 362;
Torr. in Emory’s Rep., t.5; Gray, Pl. Fendl, p. 93. Main Fork of Red
River; June 25—July 8. The pappus is more hyaline and acute than in
specimens from other localities in my herbarium. It is also slightly
lacerate at the tip, showing something of a transition to A. arachnoidea.
The leaves, too, are more woolly and broader than in the more common
form of the plant.

Rupseckia HirTA, Linn. Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 307. Witchita
Mountains; fl. June 1. Is &. bicolor distinct from this species? Dr.
Gray remarks, (Plant. Lindh. 2, p. 227,) that in cultivation, the purple
brown of the rays is commonly obsolete or wanting in all the later
heads.

Ecuinacea Anoustiroii1a, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 554; Torr. and Gr., Fl.
2, p. 306. Witchita Mountains; June 1.

Lupacuys coLumnaris, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 315. Rudbeckia
columnaris, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 575. Common on all the tributaries of the
Red River; June.

Herantuus PETIoLARIS, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 115;
Sweet Brit. Fl. Gard. (n. ser.) t. 75. With the preceding.

GAILLARDIA PULCHELLA, Foug.; DC. Prodr. 5, p. 652; Torr. and
Gr., Fl. 2, p. 366. Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River ;
May—June.

PALAFOXIA CALLOSA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 369. Stevia callosa,
Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 121; Bart. Fl. Amer. Sept, t. 46.
A. folus latioribus, Tributaries of the Washita; June.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 989

Hymenoparrus corymsosvs, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 372. Hl. Hn-
gelmannianus, Kunth.

ACTINELLA LINEARIFOLIA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 383. Hymenozys
linearifolia, Hook. Witchita Mountains; May 30.

Marsuatiia caxspitosa, Nutt. in DC. Prodr. 5, p. 680; Hook.
Bot. Mag. t. 8,704; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 2, p. 8391. Headwaters of the
Trinity River; May.

APHANOSTEPHUS RAMosIssimus, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 310; Gray, PI.
Wright. 1, p. 93. A. Riddellii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 189. gletes
ramosissima, Gray, Pl. Fendl., p. 71. Little Witchita and upper tribu-
taries of Red River; May—June. The tube of the disk flowers is indu-
rated in all the specimens.

ENGELMANNIA PINNATIFIDA, Torr. and Gr., in Nutt. Trans. Am. Phil.
Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 343; and Fl. 2, p. 283. Witchita Mountains; May
30.

MELAMPODIUM CINEREUM, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 518; Gray, Pl. Fendl., p.
78; M. ramosissimum, DC. 1. ¢., Torr. and Gr, Fl. 2, p. 271. MM.
lencanthum, Torr. and Gr. |. ¢. Cache Creek; June 21. A variable
species.

CuRYSOPSIS CANESCENS, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 256; Gray, Pl. Fendl.,
p. 77. Main Fork of Red River; July 8.

C. uisprpa, Hook. Fl. Bor— Am. 2, p. 22, (under Diplopappus;) DC.
Prodr. 7, p. 279; Torr. and Gr. 1. ¢.

Centaurea Americana, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 117; Bart.
Fl. Amer.—Sept., t. 50; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 453. Tributaries of
the upper Red River; June—July.

CirsIUM UNDULATUM, Spreng.; Torr. and Gr, Fl. 2, p. 456. With
the preceding.

Pyrernoparrus Caroxinianus, DC. Prodr. 7, p. 144; Nutt. in
Trans. Amer. Phil Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 430. Headwaters of the Trinity
and on Cache Creek; May. :

Lycoprsmia yuNcEA, Don.; Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2, p. 295, t. 103 ;
Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p.484. Upper tributaries of the Red River; June.
19

290 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

The lower branches are covered at the base with tubers or galls, about
the size of cherry-stones, produced by the stings of insects.

L, apuyiia, DC. Prodr. 7, p. 198; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 485.
&. Texana, Torr. and Gr. ].c. North Fork of Red River; June 16. The
numerous radical leaves are 3-4 inches long, runcinately pinnatifid.
Achenia angular, distinctly tapering upward.

ASCLEPIADACE.

Ascierias TuBEROSA, Linn.; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 117; Sweet Brit. Fl.
Gard. (ser. 2,) t. 24; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 567. Torr. Fl.
N. York, 2, p. 123. Upper tributaries of Red River; May—June. The
leaves vary from ovate and amplexicaul to narrowly linear.

A. speciosa, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. 2, p. 218, and in Fremont’s First
Rep., p. 95. A. Douglasii, Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2, p. 53, t. 142; De-
caisne, ].c. Witchita Mountains to the upper tributaries of the Red
River ; fl. June—July ; flowers larger than in any other North American
species of Asclepias.

ACERATES PANICULATA, Decaisne, 1. ¢., p. 521; Asclepias viridis,
Walt., Fl. Carol. p. 107? Anantherix paniculatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer,
Phil. Soe., (n. ser.) 5, p- 202. Cache Creek and Middle Fork of Red
River; fl. May 16, fr. June.

A. pecumBENs, Decaisne, 1. c. Anantheria decumbens, Nutt. 1. ¢.
Cache Creek; fl. May 17. The follicles oblong, not muricate.

A. aneustirotta, Decaisne, |. c. Polyotus angustifolius, Nutt. 1. c.
Branch of Cache Creek; fl. May 17.

A. viripirLorRA, Ell. sk. 1, p. 317; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 124; De-
caisne, 1. c. Asclepias viridiflora, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 181; Hook. Fl. Bor—
Am. 2, p. 58, t. 143. North Fork of Red River; fl. June 4. The speci-
mens collected by Captain Marcy belong to the broad-leaved forms of
the plant.

EnsLenta atpipa, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 164, and in Trans. Amer. Phil.
Soc., (n. ser.) 5, p. 203; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 518. Main
Fork of Red River; not in flower.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 291

APOCYNACEA.

AprocynuM CANNABINUM, Linn.; Hook. Fl. Bor—Amer. 2, p. 51, t.
139; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 439; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. —.
Common on the upper tributaries of Red River; May—June.

AmsonIA SALIcIFoLIA, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 184; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr.
8, p. 8385. Witchita Mountains; fr. July 16. This is perhaps only a
variety of A. angustifolia, Michx., and both may not be specifically
distinct from A. tabernemontana.

GENTIAN ACE.

SABBATIA CAMPEsTRIS, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc., (n. ser.,) 5,
p. 167; Griseb., in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 50; Engelm. and Gr., Pl. Lindh.
1, p. 15. On the Washita; fl. and fr. July 27.

Eryrur#a Bryricut, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, ined. #. trichantha 2.
angustifolia, Griseb. 1. c. With the preceding; fl. and fr. July 26.

Evstoma Russet1anum, Don.; Griseb. in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 51.
Lasianthus glaucifolius, Nutt.1.¢c. ZL. Russelianus, Hook. Bot. Mag., t.
3626. Washita River to the upper tributaries of the Red River; July.

CONVOLVULACEA.

Evorvutus pitosus, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 174, (as a synonym); Trans.
Amer. Phil. Soc., (n. ser.) 5, p. 195. . argenteus, Pursh, Fl. 1, p.
187; Choisy, in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 443; not of R. Br. Middle Fork
of Red River; fl. May 22. Choisy doubtingly refers Brown’s plant to
Li. hirsutus, Lam., and therefore has adopted Pursh’s name.

ConvoiyuLus Lopatus, Engelm., and Gray, Pl. Lindh. 1, p. 44 (ina
note.) C. hastatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc., (n. ser.,) 5, p.
194; not of Thunb. C. Nuttalliz, Torr. in Emory’s Rep., p. 149.
Middle Fork of Red River; May -22—June 6. This species has much
the appearance of C. althcoides, Boss.

C. (Ieomaa) Lteproruyttvs, Torr., in Frem. First Report, p. 94, and
in Emory’s Report, p. 148, t. 11. With the preceding.

CO. (Ipoma@a) SHUMARDIANUS, (sp. noy.;) caule gracili subpubescente ;
foliis ovato-lanceolatis sursum angustatis basi acutis ; pedunculis petiolas

' 992 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

longioribus 2-4-floris; sepalis ovatis obtusis. Witchita Mountains; fi.
July 17; flowers as large as in C. panduratus, which the plant much
resembles, but differs in the form of the leaves, and in the broader and

more obtuse sepals. Named in honor of Dr. G. C. Shumard, the botan-
ical collector of the expedition.

SOLAN ACE,

SoLanum FLAvipuM, Torr. Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 227; Dunal
in DC. Prodr. 13, p. 375. Cache Creek; May. This species is not
suffrutescent, as is stated in the original description, but probably annual.
Mr. Wright found it on the Rio Grande. The prickles are sometimes
almost wanting.

S. CarnoinensE, Linn.; Torr. Fl. N. York 2, p. 105; Dunal, |. c.,

p. 805. Witchita Mountains and upper tributaries of the Red River;
May-June.

Puysauis pumILA, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc., (n. ser.,) 5, p. 193.
With the preceding ; May-June. This species has been overlooked by
Dunal in DC. Prodr.

SCROPHULARIACEA.

CasTILLEJA PURPUREA, G. Don.; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 531.

Euchroma purpurea, Nutt., 1. c., p. 180. Sources of the Trinity River ;
May.

PENTSTEMON GRANDIFLORUS, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1818, and Gen. 2,
p. 53; Benth., lc, p.322. P. Bradburii, Pursh, Fl. 2, p.738. North
Fork of Red River; fl. June 3. The pedicels vary from three lines to
nearly an inch in length.

P. ampieuus, Torr.,in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 228; Benth., |. ¢., p.
321. Witchita Mountains; June. This rare and well characterized
species has lately been found by Mr. Wright on the Upper Rio Grande.

P. Conama, Nutt., 1. c.; Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3465; Benth., |. ¢., p.
326. Upper tributaries of the Red River; May—June.

P. pusescens, Soland.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 35; Benth., 1. ¢.
Headwaters of the Trinity. Smoothish, with narrower and more entire
leaves than usual.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 29935 °

GERARDIA GRANDIFLORA, Benth., Comp. Bot. Mag., 1, p. 206. Da-
systoma Drummondi, Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 521. On the Wa-
shita; fl. July 27.

LABIAT A.

Monarpa arisrara, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soe., (n. ser.,) 5, p.
186; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 363. Main Fork of Red River; May
24-25. Nuttall says that this species is sometimes perennial; but all
our specimens seem to be annual. A variety was found on Cache Creek,
in which the teeth of the calyx are aristate from a broad base, and
strongly hispid-ciliate. The corolla is not spotted, as in the ordinary
form.

M. punotata, Linn.; Benth., |. ¢c.; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p.59. M.
lutea, Michx., Fl.1, p.16. North and Middle Forks of Red River; May—
June. A dwarfish and annual form, in which the corolla is scarcely
spotted, was found in the same region.

Teverium Cusenss, Linn.; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 578. T.
lacintatum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 231. Cache Creek and
Middle Fork of Red River; May. This species was incorrectly described
by me as “fruticulose” in the work quoted.

ScUTELLARIA RESINOSA, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 2323
Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 427. Cache Creek and Sweetwater
Creek; May 18-June 9.

S. paRvuta, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 12; Benth., 1. ¢.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2,
p. 71. S. ambigua, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 37.

VERBEN ACE.

LipPIa CUNEIFOLIA, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 234, (under
Zapania.) Witchita Mountains, and on the Washita; June 1-27.
Schauer has overlooked this species, in his revision of Verbenacee for

DC. Prodr.

_ VERBENA BIPINNATIFIDA, Engelm. and Gray, Pl. Lindh. 1, p. 49;
Schauer, in DC. Prodr. 11, p. 553. G@landularia bipinnatifida, Nutt.,
in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 123, and in Amer. Phil. Trans. (n. ser.) 5, p.
184. Sources of the Trinity and upper tributaries’ of Red River; May-—
June.

294 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

BORAGIN ACE.

Evrtoca convotvutacsza, Nutt. in Amer. Phil. Trans., (n. ser.) 5,
p- 190; DC. Prodr. 9, p.559. Middle Fork of Red River; fi. June 23.
I am now convinced that my . grandiflora (Emory’s Report, p. 147)
is an unusually large-flowered state of the present species. The plant
is abundant on the Upper Rio Grande.

Erirricuium James. Myosotis suffruticosa, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N.
York, 2, p. 225; DC. Prodr. 10, p.114. North Fork of Red River; fi.
and fr. June 14. This plant had not been found, till Captain Marey
collected it, since it was discovered by Dr. James, in Long’s Expedition.
It is a genuine Hritrichium, but can hardly be referred to any one of
De Candolle’s sections of that genus. My description (1. c.) was drawn
from old and imperfect specimens, the stems of which were indurated at
the base so as to appear suffrutescent. As more complete specimens
show the plant to be herbaceous, the former specific name is not appro-
priate. The allied Fendlerian species No. 636 (2. multicaule Torr. Mss.)
is very hispid and canescent, with spreading hairs, and throws up several
stems from a thick root or caudex. Leaves linear-spatulate and obtuse.
Flowers on conspicuous pedicels. Fructiferous calyx broadly ovate,
nearly erect; the segments ovate-lanceolate and closed over the fruit.
Nuilets truncate at the summit, very smooth and shining.

POLEMONIACE.

Puuiox pitosa, Linn.; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 305. Sources
of the Trinity; May.

PRIMULACE.

DopecatHeon Meapra, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 186; DC. Prodr. 8,
p. 56. Sources of the Trinity ; fl. May.

SANTALACE

CoMANDRA UMBELLATA, Nutt. Gen 1, p. 157; Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2,
p. 139, t. 79, f. A; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 160. Thestum uwmbella-
tum, Linn. ‘Tributaries of the Red River; May. There are few plants
that have a wider range in latitude and longitude than this.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 295

EU PHORBIACE.

EupHorsiA CoRoLLATA, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607; Torr. Fl. N.
York, 2, p. 175, t. 99. On the Washita; July.

E. Marinata, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607; Torr. in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2,
p. 224. Main Fork of Red River; July 8. Upper part of the stem
hairy.

E. wetroscorra, Linn.; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 174, (excl. syn.
Pursh ;) Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 405. Headwaters of the Trinity; fi.
May.

STILLINGIA LANCEOLATA, Nutt. in Trans, Amer. Phil. Soc, (n. ser.)
5, p.176. SS. sylvatica g. salicifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2,
p- 245. Middle Fork of Red River; fi. June 4.

Hewnpecaypra Texensis, Klotsch in Erich. Arch. (1841) 1, p. 2525
Engel. and Gray, Pl. Lindh. 1, p. 53. Croton muricatum, Nutt. in
Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 153. H. multiflora, Torr. in
Frem. First Rep., p. 96. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. and fr. June 22.

GYNAMBLOSIS MONANTHOGYNA. ngelmannia Nuttalliana, Klotsch,
l.c. Croton monanthogynum, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 215. C. ellipticum,
Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 225, (excl. syn.;) Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245.
Main Fork of Red River; June 24. The Hnvelmannia of Klotsch, which
is based on Croton ellipticum of Nuttall, must give place to the earlier
genus of the same name of Torr. and Gray. I propose for it a manu-
script name given to the plant many years ago, when revising the
Euphorbiacee of the United States. Klotsch is wrong in referring C’ro-
ton monanthogynum to Hendecandra maritima. In the young specimens
of Captain Marcy all the staminate flowers are 8-10 androus: and the
later flowers are not unfrequently hexandrous. The petals and sepals
vary from three to five.

Tracia RAMOSA, Torr. in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 245. 7. angus-
tifoha, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 172. 7.
brevispica, Engel. and Gray, Pl. Lindh. 1, p. 54. North Fork of the
Red River; June.

296 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

CniposcoLus stimuLosus, Engel. and Gray, Pl. Lindh. 1, p- 26.

Jatropha stimulosa, Michx. Fl. 2, p. 216; Ell. Sk. 2, p. 649. Cache
Creek ; May 17.

PLANTAGENACE.

Pianraco Virernica, Linn.; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. 16. Head-
waters of the Trinity; fl. May.

P. enapuatores, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 100; Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2, p.
124; Decaisne in DC. Prodr. 13, (Sact. 1,) p. 718. Mouth of the
Big Medicine River.

POLYGONACE.

Eri1oconum Ltonerrotium, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.)

5, p. 164; Benth. Eriog. in Linn. Trans. 17, p. 406. Witchita Mount-
ains; June,

CHENOPODIACE.

CuEnopopium sugspicatum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 199? Middle Fork of
Red River. The specimens are without either flowers or fruit. An-
nual, diffuse, and much branched; clothed with whitish furfuraceous
scales. Leaves conspicuously petiolate, broadly rhombic-ovate, with
one or two coarse teeth on each side.

OBIONE CANESCENS, Moq. Chenop., p. 74; and in DC. Prodr. 13,
(pars 2,) p. 113; Torr., in Stansbury’s Report, p. 395. O. occidentalis,
Mog. 1. ¢c. Calligoniwm canescens, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 370. Atraplex cane-
scens, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 197.. Common on the upper tributary of the
Red River.

NYCTAGINACE A,

OxyBAPHUS ANGUSTIFOLIUS, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 237;
Choisy, in DC. Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 433. Calymenza angustefola,
Nutt., in Fras, Cat. 1813, and Gen. 1, p. 26. Upper tributaries of Red
River; June.

O. nycracineus, Torr. 1. ¢.; Choisy, 1. c. Allionza nyctaginea,
Michx., Fl. 1, p. 100. Calymenia corymbosa, Nutt., in Trans. Amer.
Phil. Soc., (n. ser.) 5, p. 178; not Mirabilis corymbosa, Cav., in which
the involucrum is one-flowered. With the preceding; May 28.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 297

O. uirsutus, Sweet; Hook. Fl. Bor—Amer. 2, p. 124; Choisy, 1. ¢.
Allionia hirsuta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 728. With the preceding. 2. Stem
erect, 2-3 feet high, sparingly branched; viscously pubescent; leaves
2-3 inches long and 1-14 inch wide, on very short petioles, nearly
entire. Flowers in a long, loose terminal and naked panicle; involucre
8-flowered, rotate-companulate. Fruit fusiform, oblong, 5-angled. As
in most of the Wyctaginacee, this plant abounds in cells filled with
raphides. These are so abundant in the liber of the root, that they
forma layer of a silvery white color.

ABRONIA MELLIFERA, Dougl., in Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 2879; Choisy,
l.c. Cache Creek; fl. and fr. May 18. The specimens in the collection
agree exactly with Douglas’s plant collected in California, and named
by Sir William Hooker.

CUPULIFERA.

Quercus unpuLaTA, Torr., in Ann. Lyc., 2, p. 248, t.4. Abundant
on the upper tributaries of the Red River. Stems 1-2 feet long, from
a thick woody base, sparingly branched above. Leaves oblong, two
inches or more in length, undulate, and furnished with 1-3 rather
obtuse and scarcely mucronate teeth on each side, densely and softly
pubescent underneath, nearly smooth above, thick and somewhat coria-
ceous.

CONIFER A.

Juniperus VirGiniaNa, Linn.; Michx. f. Sylv. 2, p. 353, t. 155;
Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 235. J. sabina, Hook. Fl. Bor—Am. 2, p.
166. Middle Fork of Red River.

HY POXIDACEAL.

Hypoxis erecta, Linn.; Bart., Fl. N. Amer, 1, t. 35, f. 1; Torr, Fl.
N. York, 2, p. 289. Headwaters of the Trinity River; May.

COMMELYNACEA,

CoMMELYNA ANGUSTIFOLIA, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 58; Torr., Fl.
N. York, 2, p. 332. North Fork of Red River; May-June.

TRADESCANTIA Vireinica, Linn.; Bot. Mag.,t. 105; Bart. l.c., t. 41;
Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 81; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 333. Abundant on

998 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

the upper tributaries of Red River; May-June; extremely variable in
pubescenee, and in the breadth of the leaves.

TRIDACEA,

StsyRincHiuM Bermuprana, Linn.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 290.
Headwaters of the Trinity; May.

NeMAstyLis AcuTA; with the preceding.
LILIACEA.

ScrnLA ESCULENTA, Ker. Bot. Mag., t. 1574. Phalangium esculen-
tum, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1818, Gen. 1, p. 219. P. Quamash, Pursh, Fl.
1, p. 226. Headwaters of the Trinity; May.

Autium Canapense, Kalm ; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 223; Kunth, Enum. 4,
p. 450; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 308. On Cache Creek; fl. May 14.

A. ocnrotevcum, Nutt. Trans. Amer. Phil. Soe. (n. ser.) 5, p. 156 ;
not of Waldst. and Kit. Headwaters of the Trinity; May.

A. RETICULATUM, Fras.?- Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 4385. A. angulosum, B.
lenchorhizum, Nutt. 1. c.2 Common on the tributaries of Red River.
Bulb usually covered with dark reticulated coats, but sometimes naked.

MELANTHACE:.

Amrantoium Nourraui, Gray, in Ann. Lye. N. York, 4, p. 123.
Helonias angustifolia, Nutt., in Trans. Amer, Phil. Soc., (n. ser.) 5, p.
154. Amiantanthus, Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 181. Headwaters of the
Trinity; May.

CY PERACE.

Cyperus Scuwerntrzir, Torr. Cyp., p. 276; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 343.
C. alterniflorus, Schwein., in Long’s 2d Exped., 2, p. 381, (not of R.
Br.) Middle and North Forks of Red River; May—June.

C. srricosus, Linn.; Torr. Cyp., p. 261; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 340, t.
136. Witchita Mountains; July.

CypERUS ACUMINATUS, Torr. and Hook., in Torr. Cyp. Suppl. Wit-
chita Mountains; July 15.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 999

FIMBRISTYLIS SPADICEA, Vahl, Enum. 2, p. 2943; Torr. Cyp., p. 346;
Kunth, Enum. 2, p. 237; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 360. Headwaters of
the Trinity; May.

Carex Muntensercit, Schk. Car. 2, p. 12, f. 178 ;. Schwein. and Torr.
Car., p. 304; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 374. Headwaters of the Trinity,
and on Cache Creek; May-June.

C. restucacea, Schk. Car. f. 173; Carey, in Gray’s Bot. N. States,
p. 545. C. straminea, var. festucacea, Torr. ]. ¢ With the preceding.

GRAMINEZ,

Puataris aneusta, Nees; Trin. Ic. Gram. t. 78; Kunth, Gram. 2,
p: 32. P. occidentalis, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc., (n, ser.) 5, p.
144, On Cache Creek; May 16. This plant is certainly P. angusta
of Trinius, of which I have specimens named by that distinguished

botanist. It appears, however, scarcely to differ from P. microstaclya,
DC.

Paspatum Lave, Michx. FI. 1, p. 44; Trin. Panic. Gen., p. 160;
Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 421. Main Fork of Red River; June.

Panicum pavuciriorum, Ell. Sk. 1, p. 120; Gray, Bot. N. States, p.
613. Headwaters of the Trinity; May.

P. RETICULATUM, (n. sp.;) culmo geniculato erecto subsimplici; foltis
vaginisque laxe pilosis; panicula oblonga contracta, ramulis racemosis
paucifloris; spiculis obovatis acutiusculis glabris breviter pedicellatis
muticis ; glumis valde inzequalibus; flore neutro bivalvi; palea inferiore
(ut in gluma superiora) 7-costulata reticulata, flore hermaphrodito
transverse ruguloso. On the Main Fork of Red River; July. Nos. 2090
and 2091, Wright’s Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, are lala and more
robust forms of this species.

P. ozrusum, (H. B. K.?) spicis 5-7 racemosim dispositis erectis ;
spiculis geminis subimbricatis unilateralibus muticis obovatis obtusis
glabris; glumis equalibus multinervosis; flore inferiore triandro bipa-
leaceo ; flore hermaphrodito subtilissime doable striato subni-
tido.—H. B. and Kunth, Nov. Gen. 1, p. 98? Tributaries of the Washita.
Plant glabrous and glaucous, about 18 inches long. Rachis narrowly
linear, very flexuous; nerves of the glumes green. Near P. obtusum,

300 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

H. B. K., but differs in the nearly equal glumes, &c. No. 2092 Wright’s
Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, is exactly our plant.

Aristipa FascrcuLata, Torr. in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p. 154;
Kunth, Enum. 2, p. 196. A. purpurea, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil.
Soe., (n. ser.) 5, p. 145. Middle Fork of Red River; May—June.

Agrostis (Sporopo.ws) arrowEs, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 2, p.
151. With the preceding. The axils of the panicle are nearly glabrous
in Captain Marcy’s specimens.

CaLaMaGcrostis GicanteA, Nutt. 1. c., p. 143. Middle Fork of Red
River; June 28.

CHLORIS VERTICILLATA, Nutt. 1. c. With the preceding; June 25.
An elegant grass, near C.alba, Presl. and Torr. in Emory’s Rep., p. 158.

Bovuretova racemosa, Lag. Var. Cienc. (1805) p. 141; Torr. in
Emory’s Rep., p. 1543; not of Torr. Fl. N. York. Dinebra curtipendula,
DC.? Kunth, Syn. Pl. Eq. 1, p. 281; excl. syn. Michx. Hutriana
curtipendula, Trin. Fund. p. 161 (in part); Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 280,
and Suppl. p. 233; excl. syn. Michx. and Willd. Main Fork of Red
River; July. The detailed description of this species by Kunth, I. ¢c.,
(drawn from a Mexican specimen collected by Humboldt) shows that
the Chloris curtipendula of Michaux (Bouteloua curtipendula, Torr.)
is a distinct species, as indicated in Emory’s Report, 1. ¢.

CHONDROSIUM oOLIGosTACHYUM. <Atheropogon oligostachyum, Nutt.
Gen. 1, p. 78; Torr. in Sill. Jour. 4, p. 58. Hutriana? oligostachya,

Kunth, Gram. 1, p. 96, ex. Enum. 2, p. 282. Main Fork of Red River;
July 2.

C. paptttosum. Atheropogon papillosum, Engelm. in Sill. Jour. 46,
p. 104. With the preceding, of which it is perhaps only a variety. The
species of Chondrostum and Boutelowa are known by the name of Grama
Grasses in New Mexico and Texas.

Pievrapuis Jameusit, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 148, t. 10;
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 285. Main Fork of Red River; July. Kunth (1. ¢.)
asks whether this is not Hymenothecium quinquesetum of Lagasea ;
but the brief description of that author (in Gen. et Sp. Pl. Nov. 1816)
does not agree with our plant.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 301

SESLERIA DACTyLomwEs, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 65; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 323 ;
Torr. in Emory’s Report, p. 823, t. 10. Upper tributaries of the Red
River ; July. This is the well known Buffalo-grass of the western prairies.
It is remarkable that neither the grain nor the fertile flowers of this
grass are known.

Poa (Eracrostis) oxyieris. JP. interrupta, Nutt. in Trans. Amer.
Phil. Soe., (n. ser.) 5, p. 146; not of Lam. Witchita Mountains; July.
A very neat grass. The specimens of Captain Marcy are only about 18
inches high.

P. eracrostis, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 333; Torr., Fl. N. York,
2, p. 458. North Fork of Red River; July.

P. ARACHNIFERA: panicula oblonga contracta, ramulis semiverticillatis;
spicis subquinquefloris, lato-ovatis, floribus laxis basi et racheos longe
lanoso-arachnoideis ; g4umis inequalibus anguste-lanceolatis, in carina sca-
bris; palea inferiore lineari-lanceolata acutissima obscure 3-5-nervata,
carina inferne ciliata.
£2 spiculis 9-10 floris, rachi sparsa lanosa. Headwaters of the Trinity ;
May. |

Merica GiapRA, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 62. Witchita Mountains; May 30.

KoELERIA cRIsTATA, Pers. Syn. 1, p. 97; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 381.
K. mtida, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 74. K. tuberosa, Nutt. in Amer. Phil. Trans.
(n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Headwaters of the Trinity.

Festuca nutans, Willd. Enum. 1, p. 116; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 407;
Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 471, t. 158. Witchita Mountains; June.

F. reneiia, Willd. 1 ¢c.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 397; Torr., Fl. N. York,
2, p. 470, t.154. Headwaters of the Trinity: taller than the plant of
the Atlantic States.

Unions Latiroiia, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 71; Ell. Sk. 1, p. 167; Kunth,
Enum. 1, p. 425. Witchita Mountains; July. A tall, showy grass,
with very large much compressed spikelets.

U. srriota, Torr., in Ann. Lyc. N. York, 1, p. 155. U. multzflora,
Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Washita River
to the upper tributaries of the Red River; June-July. No. 2033
Wright’s Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52 is the same.

302 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY:»

TRITICUM REPENS, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 440; Torr., Fl. N. York,
2, p. 474. Common on the tributaries of Red River; May-June. All
the specimens are awnless. ‘

E:ymus Cawnapvensis, Linn.; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 451; Torr., Fl. N.
York, 2, p. 476. . glaucifelius, Willd. Cache Creek, &.; June.

HorpEeum susatuM, Linn.; Torr., Fl. Mid. and N. States, 1, p. 158;
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 457. ‘Tributaries of Red River.

_ H. pusttium, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 87, and Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.)
5, p. 151; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 457.

TrIpsACUM DACTYLOIDES, Linn; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 61; Nutt. lc;
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 469. North Fork of Red River; June.

Anproprocon Jamesi. A. glaucum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1,
p. 153; not of Muhl. With the preceding. ~

EQUISETACE:.

EquiseTuM HYEMALE, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 652; Torr, Fl. New
York, 2, p. 482. Main Fork of Red River.

APPENDIX G.—BOTANY. 303

EXPLANATION OF PLATES.

Plate I. Anemone Caroniniana.
Fig. 1, a stamen, magnified ; fig. 2, a head of pistils; fig. 3, a head of ripe
achenia, both magnified; fig. 4, a single achenium, more enlarged.
Plate II. Dirayrza Wistizeni.

Fig. 1, a flower, magnified; fig. 2, the pistil, more enlarged; fig. 3, a ripe
pod, with one cell opened, to show the seed—also magnified ; fig. 4, the
embryo, more magnified.

Plate III. Geranium Fremontu.*

Plate TV. HorrmansEecoi1a JAMESII.

Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, a pod; fig. 3, seed—all moderately magnified.

Plate V. SaneuisorBa ANNUA.
Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, the fruit—both magnified.

Plate VI. Erynerum pirrusum.

Fig. 1, a separate leaf; fig. 2, a flower; fig. 3, a petal; fig. 4, the ovary,
with the styles and three of the sepals; fig. 5, front view of a stamen and
sepal ; fig. 6, side view of the same—all but fig. 1 more or less magnified.

Plate VII. Euryrznia Texana.
Fig. 1, a mericarp, magnified ; fig. 2, transverse section of the same, more
magnified.
Plate VIII. Liarris acrpora.
Fig. 1, head of flowers, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, a single flower, more
enlarged ; fig. 3, a single bristle of the pappus, still more enlarged.
Plate [X. APHANOSTEPHUS RAMOSISSIMUS.
&
Fig. 1, a ray-flower; fig. 2, a disk-flower ; fig. 3, style of the same; fig. 4,
achenium, with its coroniform pappus—all magnified.
Plate X. Xanruisma TEXANA.

Fig. 1-3, scales of the involucre ; fig. 4, a disk-flower; fig. 5, achenium and
pappus of the same; fig. 6, ray-flower; fig. 7, style of the disk-flower—all
magnified.

* This species was not found by Captain Marcy, but it grows in the region that
he explored. The plate was prepared for another government report, which was
never published.

304 APPENDIX G.—BOTANY.

Plate XI. ENGELMANNIA PINNATIFIDA.
Fig. 1, a ray-flower, with an inner involucral scale; fig. 2, style of the same;
fig. 3,a disk-flower; fig. 4, style of the same; fig. 5, an achenium—all
magnified.

Plate XII. ArTimeEsia FILIFOLIA.

Fig. 1, portion of a flowering branch, moderately enlarged; fig. 2, a single
head, more magnified; fig. 3, the same, longitudinally cut and equally
magnified ; fig. 4, a disk-flower, and fig. 5, a ray-flower, both more mag-
nified.

»
Plate XIII. Eryrur#a Beyricui.
Fig. 1, a flower, magnified; fig. 2, a capsule.

Plate XIV. HeLioTrRorpium TENELLUM.
Fig. 1, the calyx; fig. 2, corolla, showing its estivation; fig. 3, the same,
expanded; fig. 4, the same, laid open; fig. 5, fruit; fig. 6, longitudinal
section of the seed—all magnified.

Plate XV. Evpitoca coNVOLVULACEA.

Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified; fig. 2, the same, aid open and
equally magnified; fig. 3, the stamens, more magnified; fig. 4, a single
stamen, still more magnified ; fig. 5, the pistil, equally magnified; fig. 6,
fruit, with the persistent style; fig. 7, transverse section of the same,
equally enlarged; fig. 7, longitudinal section of a seed, more magnified.

Plate XVI. PentstTeMon amBiGuus.
Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified; fig. 2, the stamens and a portion of
the corolla, more enlarged; fig. 3, the pistil, equally magnified; fig. 4,
capsule, twice the natural size, and dehiscent.
Plate XVII. Lirpia cunerroria.

Fig. 1, a bract; fig. 2, a flower; fig. 3, the calyx; fig. 4, the corolla, cut
longitudinally, showing the stamens and pistil—all moderately magnified ;
fig. 5, the pistil, longitudinally cut, more enlarged.

Plate XVIII. Asronia CYCLOPTERA.

Fig. 1, involucre, somewhat magnified; fig. 2, fruit of the natural size; fig.
3, transverse section of the fruit, magnified ; fig. 4, an achenium, magnified ;
fig. 5, transverse section of the same, also magnified ; fig. 6, the embryo.

Plate XIX. Poa iInTERRUPTA.
Fig. 1, a spikelet; fig. 2, a single flower; fig 3, a caryopsis—all magnified.

Plate XX. Unitowa stricta.
Fig. 1, a spikelet, magnified.

APPENDIX H.

—————————————————————

ETHNOLOGY.

VOCABULARIES OF THE COMANCHES AND WITCHITAS, BY CAPT
R. B. MARCY; WITH SOME GENERAL REMARKS,
BY PROF. W. W. TURNER.

20

ETHNOLOGY.

APPENDIX H.,

VOCABULARIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE COMAN
CHES AND WITCHITAS: BY CAPT. R. B. MARCY.

ENGLISH.

Man,
Woman,
White man,
Mexican,
Negro,
Indian,
Delaware,
Kickapoo,
Cherokee,
Osage,
Comanche,
Chief,
Friend,
Enemy,
One,
Two,
Three,
Four,
Five,

Six, *
Seven,
Hight,
Nine,
Ten,
Horse,
Mule,
Bear,
Dog,
Prairie-dog,
Sun,
Moon,
Stars,
Water,
Fire,

Road,

COMANCHE.

To-e-bztch-e,
Wy-e-pe,
To-e-titch-e,
Tack-o-ti-bo,
Toosh-ah-ty-bo,

Wash-sashe,

Taak-quin-no,
Hartch,
To-ho-ba-kah,

Pooke,
Moo-rur,
Whee-lah,
Chari-lee,
Kee-chee,
Tah-arpe,
Mushe,
Ta-arche,
Pah,
Koo-o-nah,

WITCHITA.

—

T wo-bear-e-kets-ah.
Kah-haak.
E-ka-rish.
Ks-ta-he.
Es-tah-he-es-co-rash.
Lh-hos.
Nar-wah-ro.
Shake-kah-quah.
Shan-nack.
Wash-sashe.
No-taw.
A-ra-oh.

Hartch.
Now-ta-wah.
Cha-osth.

Witch.
Taw-way.
Taalk-witch.
Ks-quaw-etch.
Ke-hash.
Ke-off-itch.
Ke-o-taw-wah.

| Sa-o-kin-te.

Hs-kir-ri-ah-wash.
Ca-wah-ra.
Moo-rur.
Wee-rah.
Keetch-ah.
Keeche-w’ah.
Kee-shaw.

Moir (like French).
Eck-qua-de-co.
Keetche.

J4s-tore.
To-yah-atch-co.

308

ENGLISH

° | WITCHITA.

Smoke,
River,
Mountain,
Corn,
Grass,
Tree,
Blanket, |
Mirror,
Paint,
Tobacco,
Powder,
Gun,
Bow,
Arrow,
Yes,

No,

To hear,
To sleep,
To come,
To go,
Fight,
Understand,

Talk,

Look here,
I see,

Tell them,
He says,
How much?
How far?

Good,

Bad,

Great, -
Small,
Black,
Dead,

God,

My father,
My mother,
My brother,
My sister,
My son,

My daughter,
My husband,

COMANCHE,

Cook-toe,
Ho-no,
To-yah-vees-tah,
Hah-ne-be-tah,
Me-cheese-ka,
Oho-pee,
Wah-nopp,
Nah-bo-ne,
Pees-ah-pee,
Pah-mo,
Nah-co-chee,
Pe--it,

Ithe-pe,
Keem-mah, .
Me-ah-lo,
Naw-bah-da-kah,
Hock-kun-nee,

Ta-quaw,
Cab-boon,

Marry-e-ah-whit-to,

Chaat,
Tahe-chit,

-Pe-opp,

Ter-titche,
Too-hop,
Ta-yeh,
Tar-a-pe.
Ner-ack-pee.
Ner-be-ar.
Ner-ta-ma.
Ner-pa-cher.
Ner-too-ar.
Ner-pa-tar.
Ner-co-mack-pe.

APPENDIX H.—ETHNOLOGY.

——

Etch-qua-ask-co.
Hat.
Ne-yaw-caw-tee.
Tais.
Ee-yock-cod.
Cawk.
Ah-water-cotsh.
Atch-e-o-wash.
Tah-rah-o-way.
Way-co.
Kiteh-cod.
Kah-to-kash.
Kee-sti-its.
Nay-quats.
Wash.
Ke-ah-re.
To-otch-kash.
A-shotch-a-show-bick.
To-ta-os.
Totch-esch.
Ta-a-chots.
Wah-tah-chow-otch-
kash.
Wash-talk-ke-shaw.
Esh-sha-esh.
Un-sha-esh.
Ft-shock.
Talk-kash.
Atch-kinch.
Ah-she-ka-atch-e-a-
wah. .
Atch-tah.
Naw-out-ta.
Totch-tah.
Kee-etch-tah.
Co-rash.
Wabh-ta-tash.

ENGLISH.

My wife,
Child,
Boy,
Girl,
Face,
Body,
Head,
Heart,
Breast,
Hair,
Hand,
Leg,
Foot,
Neck,
Eye,
Mouth,
Tongue,
Back,

Herd of horses,

Deer,

Turkey,

Day, :

Summer,

Winter,

Spring,

Night,

Morning,

Darkness,

Rain,

Snow,

Sea,

Prairie,

Spring, (fountain,)
read,

Melon,

Wood,

Forest,

Bird,

Fish,

APPENDIX H.—ETHNOLOGY.

COMANCHE. WITCHITA.

Ner-quer.
To-a-chee.
To-a-nich-pe.

Wy-ah-pee-chee,

Koo-veh.
Wahk-cher.
Pa-att.
Pe-hee.
To-koo.
Par-pe.
Moo-wah.
Ah-too koo.
Nah-hap.
Too-yock.
Naw-chiche.
Tep-pa.
Ar-ah-ko.
Qua-hee.
So-nip. |
Peeshe-pah.
Nah-karke.
Pah-pee.
Cook-chow.
Pe-mo-ro.
Tah-he-yeh.
Ul-leek-kah.
Ko-yo-nit-tah.
Tah-arp.
Ta-arch.
ZTo-han.
Tane-hah-ro.
Too-kah-ra.
Pua-arth-co.
feir,

Er-mar.
Tar-kau.
Par-hap-hia.
Pe-he-wale-te.
Pah-hap-pea.
Ta-e-shaw-tar.
Pe-he-na.
Koo-oh-nee.
Hoo-oh-carte.
Hoo-choo.
Pa-que.

309

310

ENGLISH.

Snake,
Stone,
Lead,
Pipe,
Corn,
Tent,
Wampum,
Kettle,
Boat,
Axe,
Spear,
Knife,
Flint,
Shoe,
Kettle,
Town,
Warrior,
Hot,
Cold,
White,

_ Red,
Handsome,
Live,
Salt,
Near,

Far off,
To-morrow,
To kill,
To eat,
To walk,
To run,
To drink,
To laugh,
To ery,
To love,
To trade,
To see,
To sing,
To dance,
Me,

You,

He,
They,
Very well,
Perhaps,

APPENDIX H.—-ETHNOLOGY.

COMANCHE.

Noo-be-er.
Terp.
Nup-parke.
Toh-ish.
Hah-ne-be-teh.
Kah-hah-me.
Tshe-nip.
Way-he-to-wah,
Wo-we-poke.
Ho-him-nah.
Cheak.
Weith.
Na-da-curte.
Ma-a-pee.
Wit-wah.
Kee-nu-kie.
Too-a-vitche,
Ur-ate.
Urtch-ate.
Too-shop.
A-kop-tee.
Char-nar-bo-my.
Nay-ure.
O-nae-bit-er.
May-titch.
Ma-nar-kee.
Pa-arch-quee.
May-way-kun,
Tu-kar-roo.
Her-mumsh.
No-ka-ark.
He-det-to.
Ta-hah-net.
Tah-kay.
Kum-mar-pee.
Te-me-ah-row.
Nah-do-ne.
Ho-bee-er.
Ne-er-ker,
Ne.
Her-che.
Sho-ku.
Pun-che.
O-shus-she.
W o0-har-ke-ne.

WITCHITA.

3

APPENDIX H.—ETHNOLOGY. id

REMARKS ON THE PRECEDING VOCABULARIES, BY PROFESSOR
W. W. TURNER.

_ Of the two vocabularies here given, the Comanche agrees very closely
with that obtained by Mr. Robert S. Neighbors, Indian agent in Texas,
and published by H. 8. Schoolcraft, in his History, Condition, and Pros-
pects of the Indian Tribes, vol. II, p. 494, e¢ seg.; the slight discrepan-
cies which present themselves between the two being nearly all owing
to the different manner in which the same sounds are caught and
represented by different persons. The ethnological affinities of the
Comanches are well known. They are the most important tribe of
Indians in Texas, and constitute a portion of the great Shoshonee or
Snake family, which have been led in pursuit of the buttalo far to the
south of their congeners.

The vocabulary of the Wiichztas, though less complete, is more
interesting, as being the first ever published, as far as lam aware. A
pretty extended examination, however, hasynot enabled me to discover
an analogy between it and any other aboriginal tongue with which we
have the means of comparison. It is true, that in Capt. Marcy’s lists
the words for Osage, friend, mule, bear, prairie-dog, are the same in
this language as in the Comanche; but the entire dissimilarity of the
two vocabularies in other respects, shows that the words in question
must have been adopted from one language into the other, or from a
common foreign source. Thus it is evident that the Comanche name
fer prairie-deg is borrowed from the Witchita, while the name for mule
has been taken by both from the Spanish. The ethnological position
ef the Witchitas, then, remains still to be determined.

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ALPHABETICAL INDEX.’

Page.

8 Se 297, 304
Abundance of water and grass... 40

EG 285

NN ei cirtiniiclin ci, Sma him ereinnse 253
ES ae 290
PN, ren con wren wanes 117

NN lee im ip ctinga wi ton 288
NN a conical saya ag oak ai 289
CRE i GE iia ao msioe 234, 235
2 199
Agricultural capabilities......-... 69
TN Sw Sa gies 300
Albuquerque, altitude of......-... 112
@ieeran (scorpion)..-...---..... 267
Alkaline character of water..--:. 8
its ere eee 296, 297
Re i wa denis cies 298
| MER nee ener 298
PERMA 7m i on pin mie cin = 298
DMIMGAIRUS, 02. 2. =o - onion 298
er 209
SS een ee 284
RS aid in. 5 osetia 291

IIE inane ce ajo dns Swe eyem's om 3 291

alec. 258, 259
De REOIACES)-.-.......,-.------ 282
Analysis of gypsum spring....-.-. 52
Analysis of gypsum water-..-...... 91

Analysis of Marcylite...........- 9
Analysis of subsoil......--...... 8, 23
a ee 211
Anantheriz...--. alia oie ain 2 Pee 290
EE eee 280, 303
es 302
TY ae 302
Ee 256
eS 14, 49, 50, 62 |
Se 216

a 36

Aphanostephus..........---- 289, 303
Aphanostephus. ....2.2.220052.-000 289

ee 291

Page.
AVACHIIGUAT Siac cae = » v apiniee ems 262
PREMMOIMEO SS w s/aie ce moa ae mistemsiee 262
PAU CMMMOMIOTA.<. 25. sc clashes 201
Argemone...--- Meacinld win tee els 280
PRUIRBEGA) ee a. ton.o wis agaretnee eee - 300
CATESHOEE Cs Dew as o te alee eee 300
Arkansas, geology of...---..----- 179
ACT UOITIBSIE skiec rat sehon ds tavern kd EER 287, 304
Asclepiadaces.<./4.</253 .0.ee28 290
ASClOpIAS, si... 8oades sow Sees 290
ASEIE DIAS: tis (oiater vintctarsial cieniatais! Susre 290
PGUATIG Ute acini diecied oases CORES 206
A Sia AIS. cin ciciere cert weal ERIE 284
AteeaMtiber in dutidews swiesuseioe 9, 155
AREA POTOR «ct scm cce ne inicia aso 300
Atmospheric refraction-.....---- 41
PS Vi MY, ss Si a cle achat 269
Altipletncwsccssose. scanegereeee 296

B.

apse. on canine ne eeeeie aes 284
Barometer broken......----.-.- 14
SAShaBInel ree yaks mci aelawee toe 215
Battle between Indians......---.
Patraehinngee cose sod) ee SSE 242
IBCAPs TNGHUCH Ole. cca. ane Ose 57
DFR INVES isis i ter ees ria 64
Beavers habiis Ofiowneu ais. Less 33
Big WVibehitaininncrinlineo cole some oee 9
PEdy SOCIieH okra spas ee 12
BitimMinous), Coal. c.isee. Seeger 113
Boraginacerm... isis oshk eee. 294
I es sca’ s ie ce, tack act ia minnie 216
Bottle buried .2ut oo eee 38
POLbOm ANAS, iss aioe cersreken GEE 85
LE he) de ee a 28, 186, 188

Boundary between Texas and Choc-

Came Nati oi0'k bm Ke EE OL 20
euteloudeis ya. <asbmauas ates 3 300
(BAH ABUOI NES. Ch EAN at ciate. Sbhs 300
Bow, its use and material....---. 98
Buffaloes........- ow 15,.25,,27, 85,108

* Synonyms are italicised.

314 INDEX.
Page. Page.
Buffaloes, diminution of their num- Coal basin in west........ 22 “IGG
DOME. saicies age = <2 hence eee 105,)|'Coal of Brazos... ... -..s2:aseee 165
Boffalo STAs: ..6,-cn cup seen og 40 || Coldiweather...--~.. .~--2=<feeee 30
Buffaloes, range of..----.:-.--+- 104)| Coal west of Mississippi-.--.----- 165
Buffaloes, relation of, to Indians.. 103 | Colorado, confusion of the name.. 4
PANTO Hots cee nenes onc. Seekee meee 2A? COT sco wes co sous doce eee 228
POUMUS 6. ~ -e. - xo anc os see oo. /Gamanches o.2....+--22-5-e eee 86
ROS ach cs 3 0)- e cdbnee eee 269 || Comanches, physical features of... 98
PePAONIONOGS, ..- << ac oe Vasaeres 201 || Comanches, subdivisions of...---. 94
Pee RY PEPIGR 9 oc hm cmic- we ewe 200.) Comanche trail....--- -..1 ---5ep 25
ierackish Water... 22 5.-.eeesse- 64)\| Comandras ia. cee ss... wee See 294
Pew COO]. 2S cate w= eee 107 || Commelynan.<cceae swes Se coeeee 297
Pensh TENS. cane coke pee a een eee o¢ || Commelynacese...--..---.>--«-- 297
WrVOZ0R.--osnn ea duee = ade fencers 201 | (Composites Soc. ces. seek + once 287
Coniferte...--.-.. = gene Reo eee
Gi: Convoy. Sst Se see tape. See
Conbalidias.. Si eee 291, 292
Gecko ata 7 Convolvulaces vo Le Se ates eee 291
nner Copper-i.2: 2.2255 Sole 174
CBlamAGroOstis ..- <2...) meee 300 :
“lle Copper, carbonate of-.-...--- ae |
CO AON ino cic clmcn te ninnd eee 296
3 a4 || Copper Ores. ..2.-2e-eeee 7, 9, 20, ioe
CNS 26 eee Penne re 281
: | LO TORCUE oo 2 Bloke eee See 228
PRE NE, = nn oie eee erence 296 ‘ Aa: ;

: Courses and distances..-.---.--- 139

ma gian 2. -<cchs wagner BO eae :
Canai : Cretaceous fossils......-.---- 181, 204
BG C-ELOMC 5... <9), <aaeene ee A? || Ae
: ~ || Cretaceous Trocks.-.2* ------oeee 181
(Ua Oe eens sos PAD Ate oe
as Crinoidea: .. .. ce en eee ae 199
CanONs. 6 os «2 «Bebe e bk, eee 177
Capparidacer 281 Crotalils - - oo oe ee 217
Ppa pris ai mbR a ii): = 4 |. CGrotaphytils -...- ¢--. oe. pee 234
RUC aeic a donnie dng ein EE 299 C 995
Otret se. se Beet ee O00) | AqlOlOU -- -- nan ah are ene ; Raiiee
Gusenshullacns 98] Cross "Pimbers: 222 ss.a, eee 70, 81, 84
SB BERS GRR er Ore er Cruciferd 22... oo >< se one 280
Cardiitn. cio. £2 iene cetera 207 as
: Cucumis 2.212225 Woe eee 286
Cassia wos aol lt ee 285 :
eetegc » Ciearbite . 2 2 2 ose be ere 286
C2 SLUTS a Doe A :
Cucurbita’. 0. 25. 22h see 286
DELI er ET PM re ork
§ Cucurbitaces....- 02 .-t25. coo 286
Pemile-stealing.. 6. -2s,<--ceeseee= 97 ch
q | Cupulifére - 2.22 2.2. Seo 297
Wentaurea -.--bsciseh!ceetied al 289 ane
: > | | Cyathrocrinus.--—.- 222. oe oe , 199
MENIPLIE seme e-ceeeveekRereee 272 a

: Cyélas 22-22-20 ee 254

Werdtichibys .<..<250-- meee as 248 Baus
CypeTacés .. 1. 22 <2 Sa. eee 298
BeTVUSc ne cncecdscekicasceereeene PEG Weae = 2 ;

: ia yen ie o || GCYPCrus -. 222 298
Chastity of prisoners, violation of.. 103 Pie tis 998
Chenopodtacese .. «<2 pas tansnete 996 || “OP S'"- oo sae
Chenopodi WM, .o nc enn noe cen eee 296
Chickasaw. plum...-,--2ik Reson 19 D
Chiefhood of Indians......-.---- 97 .

OMB IDS, oe os soci ciecnacin see 300 att

Choctaw reservation, boundary of. 74 || Daihinia...--..-.----..----..----- 257
@hloris ....siacvees see eee Ree 300 | Dales cu. .at..cune cscs 284
ERlOTIS 228 ow cet cokerioaeeee 300 || Daled... -o.cenncescesi neon 284
Chondrésiam..vv.? cceketseete 300 || Dasystomd....-> -ce<ese—e-eeee 293
RONATOSIUIM.....« <= a= <na- eeeeeck 300) |\Weer ... «cnc =. caeseieeeeee 62, 66
eISSAPSIS..-- -.- 24 ceo eee 289 || Deer-bleat...-.----e---kseREeee 50, 66
Moe oo cone ee eenee 989 || Delphinium. -..:.-<c..,<seheaenee 280
GINS cok owns ee eneek SRS 280.|| Desmodium.......-----kee=P eee 284
MOTTE AN a in non alee eS | POEWS. Se wich vies eee 43
Cremidopnorma:.--- «-'--.6 insu 939\|| Didelphys . .c.-5 <.26<4eee =e 216
Cie a ee Gis wie wisn ee. 180 || Dinebra: soca. ce ccuene eee 300
Onidoseolis..- eee ns tet ee 296 || Diplopappus ..-.---0 -seeeee ---= 2389

INDEX. 315
Page. Page.
Distances from Fort Belknap to Halse Seorpions? . iho eee 70
PRP E Grcme teres stirs. 2c. . ENE athe a cial ome, doipereiaa a apeeh nee ae 287
oes, ee a od oa Pehl ae Sal. Se UE a5
Phvidee &:% coco e.l 125/13; 41, 48 |p ernucinous.sand._.. - 05. .- sc: 193
Wodecatheone.2 -s- 2s --- ---'. 04. Pertiity ok Soule. oe seca ce. ee 28 72
0 US ee PES MGSO Gat (a's p weininl dain aecia'ne aS 301
Po a ee ee POSH 7d, S| UMD TISty Hb. .< spre ss. 2S: 299
SMPHI-bi laces seus Sebo.) .-'- 2 -'-2 SRO EY Meee iene Mae ca erie es Banc is end dae 24, 245
OGRE OF eee a sinte 6 es soe o¢ || Flies, annoyance from.........- 68, 71
| Fort Arbuckle, arrival at....---- 82
E POrt Cuan -.- -<cco- a « See oes 5, 11
; Bort, Smith, altitude of... 22.22% 112
. } ayy =A
Early explorations of Red river... 2 Sa ir iS anh a i
Echinacea ---- --+-----+-+-+---- 288 Wossil-wood ..-2-..-.- 1.0.0 ue) 187
Echinodermata.----------+++--- 210 | French explorations of Red river. 2
Egletes ------ +2222 22000022227. 289 | Fresh water..-- 37, 40
Elevations above sea..----.---- Aaa VP Aa ae Lm mS he ho RO ;
ee ee!)
ee ea win 55 302 G.
Gee cna a wan ono. 302
Encampment, mode of.---..----- 0)|| Cailtindigi.. Lis ss.r ies ee 288
Pagelmanmiac... ....-.--.+ B20 4 Gmleod Bint ems cies iodedid bie wees 270
PS ee ee DO CrantemsUalk@. sce Soeur soe ee 219
> eRe RE OGM GrasterOnOd ay 2) sie errno eee 254
Peemeemgee 2 a2- --. 2... -1 S02 Gaia eco r essa See Ske 285
0 ES S02 WGentianaced). 2-26 .c0sicen OSES 291
CS 30d) Geraniacedd <i... 2ehwcs Woes 282
ei oe cies cee 2 28 986 | Geranium ..c2 sec. 6.0 2 4.5 ht 282, 303
OS ee aoe Gerardi. ord’ oe dsee bye 293
Pg SEE a ae ee 994 | Geology of Arkansas.........--- 179
OS 286, 303 || Geology of country.......--...-- 163
OS OT OO een tlag td a o's Sia ac Sepsis eee 293
SS a eee OO i Gkobiconeha: <. 54 sanccn-aecs ound 208
Vitage. Senonien........-...-.... a Giveynnbiza jac. cs 2 on ek ete 283
se a on 992 || Gnats, annoyance from........--- 68
aor so So Se O02 | HACE 7 ea a a 185
eee ee 295 || Gold-bearing formation.......-.. 19
Peechinces........-.......--: 295 || Gold-bearing rocks..--......---- 170
Ma 5 5 as 294,404) Gold deposites....- 222-22 .+2028 14
a es cee ede 294 || Gold diggings of Colorado...-.---- 171
Pee 2... OST ue GAIA, PTASS ono jae cath ead 28, 43, 50
RE re ot oh. ait och kia GN OU. ane oe is wala ctne'a ae 300
oo i BPG) Crain Cees 29 2) siete wel cid gia ae 299
ES erent SOOMMGEAMIUG s) a) wes. oe oes veers 14: Lobe
SS ae ey ee PGA OTROS) coc costa de) oraraiey a haar eee 35
CES SS ee SO GT Asses, “NatlVve -'= si) helo woes fees 73
Se 204, 205 || Grazing, best time for......----- ol
Explorations BiG ECR oe dian, aw dis 41 Gregg’s expedition... Lk sees 4
a aise ne tx! 3 || Greyhounds, use of, in chase..---- 2A
i a a Grossplgeer 455.42 s ayaa es 286
s (ee Os) Grotto. in sy psu. sho sae ees = 5 51
€. Bparthiaeti. 325 Di \Gpove- on timber a eee. scans 21
CHCA E ere as eo 205
F. Guides, sagacity of......-------- 76
Ga TAOS argo sen, | nce Liao 295
Po USS Dae a2), Oe arr 22, 46
MPO KUMOTS..- 2 -. - sen nsnnedere 77 || Gypsum beds, extent of....-....-- 91

316 INDEX.

Page. | Page
Gypsum deposite................ 172 J.
Gypsum formation....---.-.-... 168
Gypsum in South America.....--- Va PO. S22 soso Ss cena 204
Gypsum water, analysis of....... de, J!) Jesper. io S227 ee 170
Jatroplia .. 22250220 296
PMS 2 os Ss ol. Oe) 274
Hi. pede Tse. 563% yo tkes chee 15, 84, 91
Juniperus. 52.5 Vi). ls ss eee 297
Head of navigation of Red river... 89 || Juniperus........---..--------- 297
Head spring of Red river.....--- 55 || Juniperus Virginiana........-.-. 53
8 LE ETERS BRE I Py 287
Heterodon..---- Sai elee. cS eee 922 ||
erelammas. oo. a peeeees 288 | rs
mielix plepetin-..* 22.5.2 sbeeee 28 ! P
Feohropinia ooo coos Co een ee 304 begets eee cme Gir eae aa 3
PIMAMEAS .2'. 24 ee ok eee 298 i. Fivek: wielcudimmcinawies 49
Premmiaster 0.00 Sete Poel 210 eechies..-.---++---+-22+-+-+--- 93
PPendecandta 02.04 sss eer ces 295 || <a TO ee nn te ol
Hendecandra io. eek 295 || atime ae ae re 37,43, “
HCN MCLODPYAS ionic) miele vib laude ems 228 ihe! ClOCK << 396 eee 301
Hofimansegeia.....66 2. .---88 284, 303 “jae TNS 30)
PREG. os aoe ici wala g sina Cee 210 Si cea 983
Molbrookia ...-....... etaala 935, 236 2a “20 heii 0 sienna ac
PIGIGCLYPUS : Hn a+ oye coer ceoeaeeke 241 || EROTIC Ce Sinn ne
Homeward Marek 4.) sche ese 58 |}
POrGeuOR. co. he dao ees 302 | L. ,
Hospitality, rights. of... ..becnis. 100,
TEP SOOT oo nfo ory eS 287° Tinhintie . -ocoeeces sce esa
Hundredth degree of longitude. .18, 19. Pilea oS eae 38, 56, aves
Hymenopappus..--------------- 229 Lakes of Red river...----..---- 84
Hymenopappus --.. -------+----- 289 | Laguna Colorado......----.---- 111
FAP MENOTECIUM « 2.4 0;2 cag seca 300 || Tiabradorite..« «ox .<co.so one 157
Hymenoxys cette eee eee e cee ene 289 Leguminose. ..-.+s9-55-s.ceeee 283
Hypoxidacex tere cess eee e ce weee 297 Lepachy 9 cciare cies cic ee Dieta!
Hypoxis.........----..---+----- 297 Liephrosia. . -62~ .'ce00~ ee 283
Leptocaulis.....c.)-is-i nan eee 286
I oo neve -iecne hee a 232
; 2 ee 218
Leucis@us. 121ceo-oomeo 248, 249, 251
Jgnorance of power of whites.... 991] Liatris.........---2.-..-.4. 287, 393
Incredulity of Indians.-.....---- 99 || Liatris’. <2 seu .0s cose es ee 287
TAI Sir or ott Sai cia sal ee 76 || Lies told by the Indians.........- 18
Indians and Tartars compared.... 96]| Lightning..--- Ne i Si(sd minal 2°
Midign' Camps’: : 222. stCeice 31,'33, 361) Lignite......-i. cece see asc 167
indian forays: 20 44oeru seo tD 87 || Laliacesd..- cic! iene eee 298
Indian horsemanship...--..----- 95 Lame . .... 4-5. nieivictaanen eee 22
Indians, mode of checking.....-. 88 }| Limacere.... «nc.cc sce 28)
indians of Red river, general de- Linum...........2sedt. Pee 2381
peription Off 220.26 eo lel ae 93 || Lippia ss s..os-.eeee eee 293, 304
Prdaian tracks: 22s esses eee tad 63 || Liquor, use of, among Indians.... 102
Padian villages [ose Kees bees os 72 || Disionthus .2.-idblk~ ek ee 29)
Se UIO RA ee ais oe owe ORS Be 283) Little Witchita.... 5. ¢6s=.8aee 5
WROCETABMIS ons 0'o So gas eee 906 || Lizards described...2.ciseaeene 933
io 28 Oe RA ere eee toys 291 || Llano Estacado...---.---.- «ts Ogee,
PORCOR 2 sos sioe essence 2 bees 298 | 39, 41, 42, 45, 49, 50, 56, 92, 114
WPOn SARGe se isc 's sae oasis wae /apre 157 || Llano Estacado impracticable for
James, Dr., journal of.....-..... 3] ‘a reilfoad L200 cepa eee 110

INDEX. 317
Page. Page.
Llano Estacado, geology of....190, 191 || Negroes, hostility to.......-.--.- 101
pS le eee OG) Wemiashyvlse. ). 22055. 2. dees Soe 298
Lodges, Witchita, town of....---. ol Deri Forks ee ily Soe fee See, eS 24
Seer RRR gael. 5. 8 oil NyerapInACee soi Sl aie ee 296
ee 38
Hong's exploration... -......... 3 O.
TR aie a i on mae 115
Lost member of party..-....---. 39 Oks: drat 96
ae me ye ay eR oe CO) TSO) Ye) Gielen elt pets Neg eM Da AR 296
Reem rae recs cease: Obione 296
Eipeeeesmiig oo co. ees 289, 290 not na a ee A Rees eR 985
oe See WiNmeninnGin Soe. uC 287
ees 915 || Ouagracese ...--..------------- 285
Senet et @phibolus:.-4-0 063.006. 227, 228, 229
Pp
M Order fff expedition............ 1
a ; Orthopterous insects.---.....--- 257
Magnetic needle, variation of..... 64] Ore enca 8
Malva..----.---+102--++ 22-2 ++. 281 Overcup Oaks vs las ks 8
0 SS eae Pe Geuiindse (ott eee: 281
eo Be Omnligee: oe ne 281, 282
reer a einen -- 0 -=- 215 | Oxybaphus.........--------- 296, 297
Pepaere Oe =~ 25 --. 2... 157 Oxytropis j 984
(heey UTES | Nee ie Dird ala ny ca aa A RT CT,
Marshallia ..:..... ere eis oe 289
Bees +e be. -.- 230 P;
MeClellan’s creek............-.. 40
Medicine lodges _ pe aaa arrestee des cyl (tbe Yee We tat "9
Melampodium ..-.-...---------- 289 || Palwontolugy..-----.----+eeeeee 199
TemnmnpodinnMmes 22020855205 .2-.-- 260) tavern! og fo ae aay 288
Miamminees- So 222-2 S25. 23. BOS apenas otk Meena _.. 299
Melica. ees tes ots aS = me 301 RORICUTIES Skies 2k eee Cee Meee 999
Mentzelia 2S Tat alah 286 PATIO DOG <M eons orate arate Lint otaiele 207
Mephitis......-..---.. srrctecee 215 || Panther......---+2-+--- 11, 50, 59, 66
Meteorological observations... -.. 119 || Papaverace ..---.-eeeeeeee eee 980
Mezquite grass...........-.-... PH iPuronyebiae.<. ..csksoe. oc c's cee 281
Mezquite wood. .-.. 28, 40, 59, 66, 114 || Paspalum........---..e-eee eee 999
Middle Comanches... .-- eee 79 || Pass in the mountains. .....----- 70
Military post, new one advised ..87, 88|| patent Office, letter from....---- 60
Mineralogy (| ale i A 155 |) Peak of Guadaltipes 52. .52oL. 112
Mirab eee tes. 2 Se cAI oes A Re eens rt 204
Mirage .--.--..----.----.------ 41 || Pentatrematites ....--.-----.---- 200
Mollusca....------..-..---.---- 204 || Pentremites...----..----+ ------ 200
Monarda .--.--.......---------- 293 || Pentstemon..---.----.------ 292, 304
Monarda .----...------ 20+. 2-0 293 HW CRUSCCTHON Lcd ee et ee at neh omar 992
Mount Scott...-.-----.-..----. 70 || Petalostemon......-.-------. 283, 284
Imogny Webster... 22.22.06 622: Cae Peee ee ee oe an aor 42
Mountains. physical features of... 65 Pialenainm ee Ag Me lai 998
Mulberry creek...---..--------. 60 Phalangopsis Stam ata Up EY SIN 957
Mule lost.-..--------.--------- OE) Phalitia. Wo. et 299
My gale Bets aye igre sr a els 262 PRGLETIS oes os ee 999
Myosotts ------ --2- ------------ 294 PUPROUES. 2 oe sommes CLL Y 173
eee ee eis roi 9) age pigeon) ck na 294
UE MryNOSODIA Lay deel. oS 233
N. Lie US ey 1 Se a 255
(Eo AACE Ni ue a 9 at lig 292
Navigation of Big Witchita...... 6), | Fike’ s*expedition.2..2.5....00.2 2

318 INDEX.
Page. || Page.
Pitao phys .'-.-=-<. 2 5 ssc se a 225 | Red clay formation..........--.- 168
Pinortss fo Snjcecn bees ee oe 250, 2oud wed wivert: oi. 1.5.22. eee ae
Plantapewacete <3. 2 Sheol 296 | Red river, early explorations of... 2
PRabat0.. a 202 nee eee eee ee 296| Red river, its physical characters. 83
Pleuraphiscosscy on -e= see se - ee 300| Red river, position of sources..-.- 84
Peer ree ear ne oe hte ens eee 301, 304,|| Reptiles..-....--2--2 22228 ----- oie
PGE oop ne eee Ste ce eee eee eee 301 | Reptiles collected...---.--...... 61
Pe@iaiisig eee Ss. ee 281) Rehgious beliefs. .2.. 2.222 seme 107
Palemeniaced: «55 2b ue ewe to 204+) retepor ms 252-53 5255..22 see eee 201
Dg pp a a AP pl le 202, Coa) IMS eae wee seas ise od: le 282
Piealacecd. 922.3 ooo. ee ee 282) Rhynehosta L=..-.525552+ 2 eee 283
Peaponacere 205, 2. er eee 7296; hibes oS ee 2 oe ee 286
PR sees ee ee eee 290)}| Riddellia : 2 Oe. ekt tas cee 288
Peipecemta 2 22 ee os eee DEA Weddle es Ge Sao e 288:
Prous. ©. see ee @.- 245} Rio Raijo of Humboldt.......--- 4
Porphyritie greenstone....------ 169,|; Rise of Tiven toe Oee eee ae 44
Paniacivek..2 <2 2 soe eae cee 201, RIVED LOMTRCER cn cn cree eee 90
PRETO - nt oe wena ee cee 285,|| Rock bed of rivers -oo. eee 54
Pigirie ‘dogs. 32 ae e 43, 46,.59:)| Roel salt. .-.2. (.2cc-.ca eee 91
PEairie-dog TOWDS . 22. eee ne AG}, Rosagee i222. > -2cch oe eee 285
Presents ‘distributed../-...2----- 18,|| Rubiaces:. <<. .2ceks <2 .cen 287
PeeerOnee ss cee oes Cece ee pe 89)||. Rudbeckid ....-L...sccemene eee 288
Paro atyrival ateccces ces. oem 5.|| Rudbeckia.... 2. Luccndeeeeeeeee 288
Prammlpeea- 0S SoSe ee one 294.|| Rusheréeek.o-2-..<s<.<,5-eeeeee 80
Prisoners; release ‘of: 222222255 79 || . :
Prisoners, Mexican........----- 79 Ss.
BE 2 Sg Uy ealigney ie Rae aS es ie eh 215
PRadwenns) oe eon ee Nae 201, 202 .
Prunus “ehicasa-.. i422. sees. 19 | Sabbatia.---------------------- 291
PSHMMO PMS. 22) skccin ed. a oes 230. Safe TEWUIN. ~~~ + --se0e eee ceneee e2
Pseudoscorpionide ....-.---.---- a70 | Sagacity of Indians....----.----. 32
PRR Ca ee airs Ge Oe ate mieten ce 283 San Diego eS Te TERS Piece 116
Pilea a Ce ae id Be sat 982 Sandahi ls. sew. whe wee eee 16, 90
PRn as ees 915 || Sandy creek....---..----------- 39
Pape muscorum ...2o022. bee 9g | Salt Fork... ---.---------+---- 21
Panerwater. 2 ooo ox eee 64 Set incrustation Of.------------ Be
é alt’ SPRINGS. Le. con eee
BGP ORAPDUS (owes essen ec = Hae ad Salt plains not at head of Red river 42
Sanguisorha. «<5 + <0. ueue eee 285, 303
Q. Santalacece.....<-<<.2<4 eee 294
Sapindaces........tsh8 42 Seeeeaee 282
Quapaws PANN sah GM AN Se ae 93 Sapindus ones nip wim lo l= le 282 -
Quercis®:.< - thi myo SL sulle, Saree oe eee OT Sceleporus Sag on oe ea 236
Quercus macrocarpa..-...-.---- 8 || Scenery, magnificent..-.-------- 55
Qui@isandet wh Yu Lae ee 7, 29.|| Sebrankia ~ ..1..25 75. eee 285
Schrankia angustata....-....---- 44
Scilla. .-.-s--r>52nken eee 298
R. SCINCUS. vie 's winnsiamin elaine 241
SCHTUS....- s+ s255 see eee 215
Rgmot Redriver: -=-- 20205. 2 2e 84y)} Seolopendta - .-'2-= Laan see 272
Railroad, best route for...-..- 110, 112.) Sedma nc. ote ee <e. e 169
Railroad, general considerations Scorpio2: 2. 2... - sexcane cee 267
Memoriams”... eo Pe 109)|; Seonpions:). ss ei ee 267
Vue ea 2s ne oc ote 13, 14,15, 65.) Scorpionidss 2225.00... <a 267
Rains, times of occurrence..---.- 49 | Scotophis 20. ke -lewencen eee 226
Hanae ee. co eee 243 || Scrophulariacese:. 225-22 Se amee 292
Raguneulapee tee. oe 2 ee 280:)| Scutellaria access pace meen 293
Rattlesnawe.. casekeews = -. eo ce cs O17 I SCHEVY Sale Sees oe ae eee 36, 44, 68

INDEX. 319
Page. Page.
ON cha go Ea i ww nis 168 || Terraces of river-.........----. 35
Sections, geological....--....---- Tee teruiany Coals 2.22 2220 occa cea 167
SoU TH ah ea a Ye a Teg) emerlunteoee LASS Ss gs 293
10ST eee aha, ee an LON REUOrUUIN So Eo a ew oe ope kee 293
ING Sennen a no A ae aoe 2b belyPHORUS as seaeses 5+ vs oc ae ce 265
RRM er ee eee DU ENP RES PENG on Se ete at mic uu nome 294
Rete sco fu aces eae: len PMS heer acetc ne om cra, Gomlate ojaan 53, 54
Sued. trot ©. U:, letter from 155} Tiliquas!* 22. 5l 2 F222. +. oe tele 241
Shortest route to Pacific...--..-- 115 || Tillable land on Red river. .-.-.--- 86
“21” Ea pag ba al Boo, babermnws te ace. ole 65, 70, 73
SU da 3. os ones oe cin oe 286 || Timber, large size of-----...--- ¥ 40
Roe cco cual can 281 || Timber, varieties of.........---- 8, 12
Rem COULC... 2 c-ens oe ecee ~ Eloi) Pianan sandss clos wets.) Sto. 157
meme VWACO. i... -olecae does eon 113. | Pobacko, use Of. a s2es ces oe 102
eee USC Ol. 3. uk see ee LOG WWM O-secuAShe: vr. ou ts. el eee ee 79
REE es Meee salem oe See Vradescantiiecss~ i. 0s... one eee os 297
Sertteminm 2 loot. ede 298 || Traffic of Indians, illegal...---.-. 105
memoke Of Indians.....2--....-.- Go whtagiate ste sacs eee e le ol eee te 295
suows, little obstruction from.... 114 || Tragia... 2. 2250.02.22 eee ee 295
meee analysis of....-2....--. 2... 158 || Transportation of stores, route for 89
RMGGE) 5-2. - 8. eon wane Boe PMsOMig es) 2s aoe cn ot tee 206
a RR ni 202i) PENG YE TAVODs eee Rein Cae e aa tee 113
RR = od ew wee ed Eripsacume. S20 oo eso eeigelooen 302
Sparks’s expedition............- Oh) TRiieUiWaa oe ceo ake = Soe ee 302
Pmegiilus.. 0.2... 22.0.-.-- DG Pylostomiae 2/2 once toe Se eae. 208
SEI oe as eee 262
i SS a 203
1 x. 300 U.
Geeeteelain- 52. ..---...--d6 56
Staked Plain, etymology of-.----- Gee Gholi tee es ok tates Sais 926
Beet 2 ~~ ~26 == F em neo Be Witte se os ee 253, 255, 256
Stillingia OS SED SOO SII GSO Oa Oca e 295 Uniola ..- 301, 304
o-oo. ee ene oe Daoist ag ek ee ee 4 201
Streptanthus Bia nies at “mua chanel ape 280 Tein te ee eee 915
Se ie eats THE SSS sacle Tit NR eae A RE
Subsoil, analysis of...........---- 8
Seeeien =... -...-- mooted ae MEM es 256 Vv.
Pia elonedta.) 2.2 42... fb24 4 28
Meet eh MG. ....-2.---.-25. 45 :
OM iver... ....<----.---2<. 113 see ere one pCR Ree Rk er ae
Sulphuret of lead.........-.---- S| Sa eae ie tae 5a8
CEMINOS 5.2 oo ences MOPoicg ee, ome eer a toes 93
Suydam creek........---------- gy] MUN ES cee tha ore ance :
i Vermillion; tiserofso.l. 2s. ce 99
Sweetwater creek..---.-.------ pee) SLE ne
. : : Vesicariars ects ee eee 280
Swiftness of wild animals Seid oe OZ We eN es ees w 4-1\ bs a 983.
. Vinaigron ( Thelyphonus)......--- 265
T. MitaCem aes ti wu ot ee, 282
NEIS ee ns on Ss ee Soe 282
aS Oi Volcanic rocks 4. u-.- Jo aeeeeaan 169
Talk with the Indians...-----.-.. TB VGtIpeS Sse So ees oe ceeeeeres 215
EN ee SS. oe Ss Ce 215
EEL Sa i eae a am 262
epeinathhd 2-5. Js 222+ tks 260 | W.
Tartars and Indians compared.... 96°
OO NUS oe. ase oes oo eas wo so AGA IW a COS wo ten ee eee. op 77, 78, 93
Temperature of water...-..--.. GPO We aU eae ar Ss Sewn = an
Terebratula...--.,..+-.-. Pe, BOOP AUCAEW a PALOOSe sas. . os wo ces wee eee 97

320° INDEX.
Page. Page.

War parties, how distinguished... 25) Witchita mountains, structure of.. 186
Warnetis pass. ooo. ccs scene 116 || Women, condition of..-......--. 102
Water busine. cc\o: 2c Soe ce 59 :
Water of Red river, analysis of... 176 x
Water, sudden rise of.-..-...... 12]| ' 5
Wihtiverte c2s22 ice eco ee 61, 101 4
Wild-horse creek.......-...---- 80 || eRe enn anne noes =
Winds,.prevailing -... 0.526523 0) 80
Winters of Red river.......----- 86 Z.
Wiremres- 2 ee cee Peles Winter Biles) ; '
Witchita mountains...... 10, 15, 62, 64 || Zanthoxylacez ..-.-.-.----.---- 282
Witchita mountains, agricultural ZEB OGUE So nmin toe eee 293

capabilities of country about... 73 || Zimnia..-2.........-.-.--.----- 288
Witchitas, extent of their country. 69)| Zoology... ... 1... ..-20. -- sen 215

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