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NVINOSHLINS S$ | 2 Zz exe @ eH ” ca XS A Ae “S Z 2 WN = 2) <3 a < a RW < | ye : : a TN = a Ui je) as re) soa ay PA asi z SS eed JLALILSN| NWINOSHLINS SAlYVuYaiT LIBRARIES _ SMITHSONIAN I ee ia) Ny eee a. Ge 2 | Uy 2 33d ae HO. OF REPS. fae 1st Session. a SA IGG EXPLORATION peai/ ls RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, IN THE YEAR 1852: ey RANDOLPH B. MARCY, CAPTAIN FIFTH INFANTRY U. 8S. ARMY5 ASSISTED BY GEORGE B. McCLELLAN, BREVET CAPTAIN DU. S. ENGINEERS. WITH REPORTS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. WASHINGTON: ( oe 3 A. O. P. NICHOLSON, PUBLIC PRINT. 1854. Hi REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, COMMUNICATING, IN COMPLIANCE WITH A RESOLUTION OF THE SENATE, CAPTAIN MARCY’S REPORT OF HIS EXPLORATION OF THE RED RIVER. War Department, Washington, November 8, 1853. Sir: In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 4th of February, 1853, I have the honor to transmit herewith, for the use of the Senate, a copy of the report of Captain R. B. Marcy of his exploration of the waters of Red river. Very respectfully, your obedient servant, JEFFN. DAVIS, Secretary of War. Aszury Dicxins, Esq., Secretary of the Senate. INTRODUCTION. In submitting the following report of a reconnoissance of the country bordering upon upper Red river, it is proper to state that, previous to our departure upon the expedition, we were unable to procure ail the instruments adapted to the perform- ance of such services as were required of us. We succeeded in obtaining a sextant, a mountain barometer, an aneroid ba- | rometer, an odometer, a prismatic compass, and two Fahren- heit thermometers; but could not procure a chronometer, and, in consequence, were under the necessity of making our observations with a pocket lever watch. The latitudes given are the results of from twelve to fifteen observations of Polaris for the determination of each position. The longitudes were determined by a series of observations upon lunar distances, and are believed to be as accurate as the imperfect character of our instruments would admit. The positions thus deduced have been corrected by frequent and careful observations of courses and distances with the compass and odometer, a record of which will be found in the appendix. The astronomical observations were made by Captain George B. McClellan, of the engineer corps, who, in addition to the duties properly pertaining to his department, performed those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An . interesting collection of reptiles and other specimens, in alco- hol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smithsonian Institution, whose reports will be found in the appendix. For these and many other important services, as well as for his prompt and efficient co-operation in whatever was necessary for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe- dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest ac- knowledgment. lv INTRODUCTION. Doctor George G. Shumard, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who faithfully discharged the duties of surgeon to the command, also made important contributions to the department of natu- ral science, by collections of specimens of the rocks, minerals, soils, fossils, shells, and plants, of the different localities which we traversed; and of these, the plants were placed in the hands of Dr. John Torrey, of New York, the eminent botanist so well known to the army by his able reports on the collec- tions of Fremont, Emory, and others. The shells were intrusted to Professor C. B. Adams, of Amherst. His report, as presented, possesses a melancholy ' interest, as being almost the last scientific effort of this distin- guished conchologist, whose loss science has so recently been called upon to deplore. The specimens of rocks and minerals have been examined by President Hitchcock, of Amherst College, with important results, while copious remarks on the general geology of the country have been supplied by Dr. Shumard, who has also furnished some notes on the conchology of the route. The minerals and soils have been analyzed by Professor C. U. Shepard, who detected among them a new species. Finally, in the hands of Dr. Benjamin F. Shumard, the fossils have yielded several novelties to science. All these reports upon the natural history of the expedition will be found de- tailed at length in the appendix. The barometrical observations which are given were taken from both forms of the instruments, and exhibited a remarka- ble agreement until the 8th of June, when we had the mis- fortune to break the mountain barometer, and were obliged subsequently to depend solely upon the aneroid. This I be- lieve to be very reliable, as it has been tested since our return by a careful comparison with several other instruments in possession of Benjamin Pike & Son, New York, and found to be in perfect order. In order to obtain as intimate a knowledge as possible of the country over which we passed, I was necessarily absent from the train a great portion of the time while it was in mo- tion; and during such periods the command devolved upon INTRODUCTION. Vv Lieutenant Updegraff, which, with the constant guard I deemed it necessary to keep over our animals in a country where the Indians manifested a disposition by no means friendly towards us, made his varied duties laborious, and it gives me pleasure to bear testimony to the efficient manner -in which he performed them. R. B. MARCY, _ Captain 5th Infantry. Me) uy TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Order from headquarters of the army—Failure of former expedi- tions in reaching the source of Red river—Causes of failure—Departure from Washington—Arrival at Fort Belknap—The Little Witchita— . Big Witchita—Departure from Cache creek—Copper ore—Indian BOOS ecw hed son's am Mec hiach mad emia ie wee? man dra ey Ml CHAPTER II. Witchita mountains—Panther killed—Buffalo traces—Singular and unaccountable rise of water—Buffalo signs—Horse captured—Rains— Arrival at Otter creek—Barometer broken—Character of Witchita mountains—Buffalo killed—High water- - - - - - - Page10 CHAPTER II. Witchitas—Discouraging account of the country in advance—Pass 100° of longitude—Leave Otter creek—Berries—Elk creek—Pass Witchita mountains—Gypsum bluffs—Baffaloes seen—Suydam creek— Comanche signs - - - - - - += - - = - = - = Page17 CHAPTER IV. Buffalo chase—Sweet Water creek—Comanche camps—Prevailing winds—Indians seen—Method of encamping—Wonderful powers of the Delawares—Beaver dams—Kioway creek - - - - - - Page 27 CHAPTER V. Reach the source of the north branch of Red river—Bottle buried— Arrived upon the Canadian—Departure for Middle Fork—Indian battle- ground—Prairie-dog towns—Source of Middle Fork—South Fork— Prairie dogs - - - - = - - - - - = ++ - - - Page 37 CHAPTER VI. Arrive at the main South Fork—Panther killed—Bitter water— Intense thirst—Head spring—Bears abundant—Departure down the river- - - - - - - - - - - - = - += = + - Page 49 Vill TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. Antelope and deer—Witchita mountains in sight—Reach Buffalo creck—Valley of Otter creek—Salubrity of climate—Deer-bleat— Horseflies—Scurvy—Witchita mountains—Pass through the mount- ains—Buffalo seen - - - - - - - - - - - - - Page 62 CHAPTER VIIL Old Indian villages—Beautiful. scenery—Trap formation—Lost mule—Beaver creek—Prairie guides—Rush creek— Witchita and Waco villages—Mexican prisoners—Talk with the Indians—Cross Timbers— Kickapoos—Strike wagon track—Arrival at Fort Arbuckle. Page 72 CHAPTER IX. Prominent features of the Red river—Chain of lakes—Cross Tim- bers—Arable lands—Establishment of a military post upon Red river recommended—Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing to Mex- ico— Wagon route from Fort Belknap to Santa Fe—Navigation of Red river—Erroneous opinions in regard to Red river—Extensive gypsum range—H] Llano Hstacado - - - + - - - - - - - Page 83 CHAPTER X. Indians of the country—Habits of Comanches and Kioways—Simi- larity between them and the Arabs-and Tartars—Predatory excursions into Mexico—War implements—Incredulity regarding the customs of the whites—Method of saluting strangers—Degraded condition of the women—A version to ardent spirits—Prairie Indians contrasted with the Indians of Eastern States—Buffaloes—Probable condition of Indians on the extermination of the buffaloes—Pernicious influence of traders— Superstitions of the natives- - - - - - - - - - - Page 93 CHAPTER XI. Pacific railway—Impracticability of crossing the “Llano Estacado”— Route from Fort Smith to Santa Fé—Return route from Dona Ana— Its connexions with the Mississippi and Pacific - - - - Page 109 TABLE OF CONTENTS. ix APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS- - - - - - - - = Page 118 APPENDIX B. Tapes oF Courses AND Distances - - - - - - - Batre 130 APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY : Report on the minerals collected. By Prof. C. U. Shep- eee hie) = aaa) bs ies a) ger ele ie) mamas APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY: Notes upon the specimens of rocks and minerals collected. By President Edward Hitchcock - - - - - - - Page 140 Remarks upon the general geology of the country traversed. By George G. Shumard, M.D.- - - - - - - Page 156 APPENDIX E. PALAONTOLOGY : Description of the species of carboniferous and cretaceous fossils collected. By B. F.Shumard,M.D.- - - - - Pagel73 APPENDIX F. ZOOLOGY : ‘Mammals. By R. B. Marcy, Captain U.S.A. - - Page 186 Reptiles. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard - - - - Page 188 Fishes. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard - - - - - Page 216 Shells. By C. B. Adams and G.G.Shumard, M. D.- Page 224 Orthopterous insects. By C. Girard - - - - - - Page 228 Arachnidians. By C. Girard - - - - - - - - Page 233 Myriapods. By C. Girard - - - - - - - - - Page 248 APPENDIX G. Borayy : Description of the plants collected during the expedition. By Dr. John Torrey - - - - - © = - - - = - Page 247 x TABLE OF CONTENTS. APPENDIX H. ErunoLoey : Vocabulary of the Comanches and Witchitas. By Captain R. B. Marcy; with some general remarks by Prof. W. W. Tur- MEN Go) Va) in ei ae ee en eis ei i= a ae Page ang ALPHABETICAL INDEX - - - - - - - - = - - = Page 279 ; ILLUSTRATIONS. LANDSCAPES. Plate. H Granite boulders. = 9 =) 26 6S eee II. Mount Webster - : - vie is = = - III. Encampment of 6th June - - = - = - IV. Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Redriver - - — - V. Views of Gypsum Bluffs on Canadian river - = - VI. View near Gypsum Bluffs on Red river - - - VIL. Border of El Llano Estacado - - - - - - VIil. View near head of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no - - - IX. View near head of Red river- - - - = - X. Head of Ke che-ah-qui-ho-no, or the main branch of Red river - ON SEND Sak - she He XI. Trap mountain on Cache creek - - - - - Xi. Witchita village on Rush creek - - - - - GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS.* I. Section showing the order and succession of the strata from Washington county, Arkansas, to Fort Belknap, Texas - . Section on Cache creek, near its junction with Red river - . Section of strata on north branch of Red river, taken June 2 . Section of Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river, taken June3 - - - 2 2 13 s i, . Out-crop of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone near north branch of Red river - = < s = ss . Section of the borders of the Llano Estacado, taken June 16 . Section of strata near middle branch of Red river, taken June 21 - - - - - - - - - . Section of bluffs between middle branch of Red river and Dog-town river, taken June 24 - - - - - Page. 167 168 * All the geological sections are by Dr. George G. Shumard, surgeon to the expedition. ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. X. Section of strata near the head of Red river, taken June 28 169 XI. Section of cliffs on Cache creek PALZONTOLOGY.* I. Fig. 1 a. Productus cora, D’Orb. - Fig. 2. Productus costatus, Sow. - 2 Fig. 3. Spirifer, indet. - - - - Fig. 4. a. 6. Terebratula marcyi, Shum. - Fig. 5. Productus punctatus, Martin - Fig. 6. Archimedipora archimedes, Les. - Fig. 7. Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost II. Fig. 1. Productus punctatus, Martin - Fig. 2 a. b. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow. - Fig. 3 a. 6. Terebratula choctawensis, Shum. Fig. 4. a. b. c. Hemiaster elegans, Shum. Ill. Fig. 1. Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shum. Fig. 2. Holaster simplex, Shum. - - Fig. 38. Astarte washitensis, Shum. - - Fig. 4. Ammonites, indet. - - - Fig. 5. Exogyra texana, Roem. — - - Fig. 6. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow. - IV. Fig. 1. Trigonia crenulata, Lam. - = - F ig. 2. Cardium multistriatum, Shum. - Fig. 3. Eulima subfusiformis, Shum. - Fig. 4. Globiconcha elevata, Shum. - Fig. 5. Ammonites marcianus, Shum. - Fig. 6. Pileopsis; not mentioned in the text Fig. 7. Holectypus planatus, Roem. - Fig. 8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall - - V. Fig. 1 a. 6. Exogyra texana, Roem. - Fig. 2. Ostrea subovata, Shum. -~— - alah 176 176 Wid ie 175 175 173 175 178 181 184 183 184 180 184 179 178 180 181 182 182 183 185 176 “Owing to the impossibility of communicating with Dr. Shumard during the printing and engraving of the present report, I have been unable to fill up the gaps in the above list of figures made up from the references in the article on paleontology. This want of supervision on the,part of the author will also ex- plain the existence of sundry discrepancies between text and plates. B. M. Plate. XVII. Fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roem. Fig. 3. ; Fig. 4. Natica, indet. (cast) ; not mentioned in the text - ILLUSTRATIONS. Fig. 5. Gryphea pitcheri, Morton ZOOLOGY. . Crotalus confluentus, Say - - . Eutenia proxima, B. & G.- — - . Eutenia marciana, B. & G. - . Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. - . Pituophis meclellanii, B. & G. - . Scotophis latus,B.&G. - = . Ophibolus sayi, B.& G. - - . Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. - . Leptophis majalis, B. & G. - . Figs. 1-4. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. & G. . Fig. 3. Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shum. . Fig. 1. Panopea texana, Shum. - Figs. 5-12. Sceloporus consobrinus, B. & G. - Figs. Figs. . Figs. Figs. Figs. . Figs. Figs. Figs. Figs. 1-4 . Bufo cognatus, Say - - - . Pomotis (Bryttus) Longulus, B. & G. . Pomotis breviceps, B. & G. - . Figs. . Leusiscus vigilax, B. & G. 5-8. Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. 9-12. Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. 1-4. Brachypeplus magnus, G. 5-8 9-1 1-3 4—5 1-4 5-7 . Anabrus haldemanii, G. 3. Daihinia brevipes, Hald. . Mygale hentzii,G.—- . Lycosa pilosa, G. - . Thelyphonus excubitor, G, . Scorpio (Telegonus) boreus, G. ” X11 Page. 182 181 180 179 ILLUSTRATIONS. . Scolopendra heros, G. : BOTANY.* . Anemone caroliniana, Walt. . Dithyreea wislizenii, Engelm. . Geranium Fremontii, Torr. - . Sanguisorba annua, Nutt. - . Eryngium diffusum, Torr. - . Eurytenia Texana, Torr. & Gr. . Liatris acidota, Engelm. & Gray . Xanthisma Texana - - . Artemisia filifolia, Torr. - . Erythraa Beyrichi, Torr. & Gr. . Heliotropium tenellum - . Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt. . Pentstemon ambiguus, Torr. . Lippia cuneifolia, Torr. —- . Abronia cycloptera - - . Poa interrupta - — - - . Uniola stricta, Torr. - : * For explanations of the figures on each plate, see p. 271. . Hoffmanseggia Jamesti, Torr. & Gr. . Aphanostephus ramosissimus, DC. . Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. & Gr. 269 269 MAPS. xV MAPS. 1. Map of the country between the frontiers of Arkansas and New Mexico; embracing the section explored in 1849, —50, 51, and —52, by Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th U.S. infantry, under orders from the War Department. Also, a continuation of the emigrant road from Fort Smith and Fulton down the valley of the Gila. 2. Map of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, explored in 1852 by Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th infantry, assisted by Brevet Captain George B. McClellan, U. S. engineers. b WIRE ct M3 mt CHAPTER I, ORDER FROM HEAD-QUARTERS OF THE ARMY—FAILURE OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS IN REACHING THE SOURCES OF RED RIVER—CAUSES OF FAILURE—DEPARTURE FROM WASHINGTON—ARRIVAL AT FORT BELKNAP—THE LITTLE WITCHITA—BIG WIT- CHITA—DEPARTURE FROM CACHE CREEK—COPPER ORE—INDIAN SIGNS. New Yorr, December 5, 1852. Col. 8. Coorrer, Adjutant General U. S. Army: Sir: I have the honor herewith to submit a report of an exploration of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, made in obedience to the following orders: [Srreciat Orpers No. 33.] Apsutant GENERAL’s OFFICE, Washington, March 5, 1852. Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, with his company as an escort, will proceed, without unnecessary delay, to make an examination of the Red river, and the country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources, accord- ing to the special instructions with which he will be furnished. On completing the exploration, Captain Marcy will proceed to Washington to prepare his report. Brevet Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers, is assigned to duty with this expedition. Upon the completion of the field service, he will report to Brevet Major General Smith, the commander of the 8th department. The necessary supplies of subsistence and quartermasters’ stores will be furnished from the most convenient depots in the 7th or 8th military department. By command of Major General Scott: R. JONES, Adjutant General. Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the expedition, it may be proper to remark, that during the greater portion of the three years previous to the past summer, I had been occupied in exploring the district of country lying upon the Canadian river of the Arkansas, and upon the head-waters of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of Texas. During this time my attention was frequently called to the remark- able fact that a portion of one of the largest and most important rivers in the United States, lying directly within the limits of the district I had been examining, remained up to that late period wholly unexplored 2 EARLY EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER. and unknown, no white man having ever ascended the stream to its sources. The only information we had upon the subject was derived from Indians and semi-civilized Indian traders, and was of course very unreliable, indefinite, and unsatisfactory; in a word, the country em- braced within the basin of Upper Red river had always been to us a “terra incognita.” Several enterprising and experienced travellers had at different periods attempted the examination of this river, but, as yet, none had succeeded in reaching its sources. At a very early period, officers were sent out by the French govern- ment to explore Red river, but their examinations appear to have ex- tended no further than the country occupied by the Natchitoches and Caddoes in the vicinity of the present town of Natchitoches, Louisiana. Subsequent examinations had extended our acquaintance with its upper tributaries, but we were still utterly in the dark in regard to the true geographical position of its sources. Three years after the cession to the United States, by the First Consul of the French republic, of that vast territory then known as Louisiana, a small party, called the “Exploring expedition of Red river,” consisting of Capt. Sparks, Mr. Freeman, Lieut. Humphry, and Dr. Custis, with seventeen private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers, and a black servant, embarked from Saint Catherine’s landing near Natchez, Missis- sippi, with instructions to ascend Red river to its sources. They de- scended the Mississippi, and on the 3d of May, 1806, entered Red river, expecting to be able to ascend in their boats to the country of the Pawnee (Pique) Indians. Here it was their intention to leave their boats, and, after packing provisions on horses, which they were to pur- chase from the Pawnees, to proceed (as expressed in their orders) to the top of the mountains, the distance being, as they conjectured, about three hundred miles. It is evident from the foregoing that Red river was supposed to issue from a mountainous country, and the preparations for this expedition were made accordingly. This party encountered many difficulties and obstructions in the navigation of the river among the numerous bayous in the vicinity of the great raft, but finally overcame them all, and found themselves upon the river above this formidable obstacle. They were, however, soon met by a large force of Spanish troops, the com- mander of which ordered them to proceed no further; and as their numbers were too small for a thought of resistance, they were forced to turn back and abandon the enterprise. Another expedition was fitted out in 1806 by our government, and placed under the command of that enterprising young traveller, Lieut. PIKE’S EXPEDITION. 3 Pike, who was ordered to ascend the Arkansas river to its sources, thence to strike across the country to the head of Red river, and descend that stream to Natchitoches. After encountering many priva- tions and intense sufferings in the deep snows of the lofty mountains about the head-waters of the Arkansas, Lieut. Pike arrived finally upon a stream running to the east, which he took to be Red river, but which subsequently proved to be the Rio Grande. Here he was taken by the governor of New Mexico and sent home by way of Chihuahua and San Antonio, thus putting a stop to his explorations. General Wilkinson, under whose orders Lieut. Pike was serving at the time, states, in a letter to him after his return, as follows: “The principal object of your expedition up the Arkansas was to discover the true position of the sources of Red river. This was not accomplished.” Lieut. Pike, however, from the most accurate information he could obtain, gives the geographical position of the sourceg of Red river as in latitude 33° N. and longitude 104° W. Again, in 1819~20, Col. Long, of the U.S. Topographical Engineers, on his return from an explo- ration of the Missouri river and the country lying between that stream and the head of the Arkansas, undertook to descend the Red river from its sources. The Colonel, in speaking of this in his interesting report, says: “ We arrived at a creek having a westerly course, which we took to be a tributary of Red river. Having travelled down its valley about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of Indians, of the nation of “Kaskias,” or “Bad Hearts,” who give us to understand that the stream along which we were travelling was Red river. We accord- ingly continued our march down the river several hundred miles further, when, to our no small disappointment, we discovered it was the Cana- dian of the Arkansas, instead of Red river, that we had been exploring. “Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our long journey, which they had to perform bare-footed, and the season being too far advanced to admit of our retracing our steps and going back again in quest of the source of Red river with the possibility of exploring it before the commencement of winter, it was deemed advisable to give over the enterprise for the present and make our way to the settlements on the Arkansas. We were led to the commission of this mistake in consequence of our not having been able to procure a good guide ac- quainted with that part of the country. Our only dependence in this respect was upon Pike’s map, which assigns to the head-waters of Red river the apparent locality of those of the Canadian.” Doctor James, who accompanied Colonel Long, in his journal of the expedition, says: “Several persons have recently arrived at St. Louis, in . 4 CONFUSED ACCOUNT OF RED RIVER. Missouri, from Santa Fé, and among others the brother of Captain Shreeves, who gives information of a large and frequented road, which -_yuns nearly due east from that place, and strikes one of the branches of the Canadian ; that, at a considerable distance south of this point, in the high plain, is the principal source of Red river. “His account confirms an opinion we had previously formed, namely: that the branch of the Canadian explored by Major Long’s party in August, 1820, has its sources near those of some stream which descends towards the west into the Rio del Norte, and consequently that some other region must contain the head of Red river.” He continues: “From a careful comparison of all the information we have been able to collect, we are satisfied that the stream on which we encamped on the 3lst of August is the Rio Raijo of Humboldt, long mistaken for the sources of Red river of Natchitoches. In a region of red clay and sand, where al®the streams become nearly the color of arterial blood, it is not surprising that several rivers should have received the same name; nor is it surprising that so accurate a topographer as the Baron Humboldt, having learned that a Red river rises forty or fifty miles east of Santa Fé and runs to the east, should conjecture it might be the source of Red river of Natchitoches. “This conjecture (for it is no more) we believed to have been adopted by our geographers, who have with much confidence made their deline- ations and their accounts to correspond with it.” Hence it will be seen that up to this time there is no record of any traveller having reached the sources of Red river, and that the country upon the head-waters of that stream has heretofore been unexplored. The Mexicans and Indians on the borders of Mexico are in the habit of calling any river, the waters of which have a red appearance, “Rio Colorado,” or Red river, and they have applied this name to the Cana- dian in common with several others; and as many of the prairie Indians often visit the Mexicans, and some even speak the Spanish language, it is a natural consequence that they should adopt the same nomenclature for rivers, places, &c. Thus, if a traveller in New Mexico were to in- quire for the head of Red river, he would most undoubtedly be directed to the Canadian, and the same would also be the case in the adjacent Indian country. These facts will account for the mistake into which Baron Humboldt was Jed, and it will also account for the error into which Colonel Long and Lieut. Pike have fallen in regard to the sources of the stream which we call Red river. Dr. Gregg, in his “Commerce of the Prairies,” tells us that on his way down the south bank of the Canadian his Comanche guide, Manuel, DEPARTURE FROM FORT BELKNAP. +5) (who, by-the-by, travelled six hundred miles with me upon the plains, and whom I always found reliable,) pointed out to him breaks or bluffs upon a stream to the south of the Canadian, near what we ascertained to be the irue position of the head of the north branch of Red river, and where it approaches within twenty-five miles of the Canadian. These bluffs he said were upon the “Rio Negro,” which the Doctor supposed to be the Washita river; but after having examined that section of country I am satisfied that the north branch of Red river must have been alluded to by the guide, as the Washita rises further to the east. It therefore seems probable that “Rio Negro” is the name which the Mexicans have applied to Red river of Louisiana. Immediately on the receipt of the foregoing order I repaired to Fort Smith, Arkansas, where the Quartermaster General had directed that transportation should be furnished me, but on arriving there I learned that nearly all the means of transportation had a short.time before been transferred to the depot at Preston, Texas. Captain Montgomery, the quartermaster at Fort Smith, manifested every disposition to facilitate my movements, and supplied me with ten most excellent horses, with which I proceeded on to Preston. At this point I made a requisition upon the quartermaster for a sufficient number of teams to transport supplies of subsistence, and baggage for my command, for five months. These were promptly furnished by Bvt. Major George Wood, to whom I am under many obligations for his active and zealous co-operation in supplying me with such articles as were necessary for the expedition. With but few resources at his command, with animals that had been worked down, and, in consequence of the searcity of grain, very poor, and with parts of old wagons much worn, he succeeded in a very few days in fitting me out with twelve ox teams that performed very good service. As my company was at Fort Belknap, upon the Brazos river, one hundred and sixty miles from Preston, and as the route by way of Fort Arbuckle to the mouth of Cache creek (the initial point of my recon- noissance upon Red river) is much the shortest, I determined to leave my supply train under the charge of a wagonmaster to bring forward over this route, and to proceed myself to Fort Belknap and march my company over the other trail, uniting with the train at the mouth of Cache creek. I accordingly reached Fort Belknap on the 30th of April, and on the 2d of May left with my company, marching over the Fort Arbuckle road as far as where it intersects Red river. As our road led us along near the valley of the Little Witchita, I took occasion to examine it more 6 THE BIG WITCHITA. particularly than I had ever done before, and found it a much more desirable section of country than I had imagined. The soil in the valley is very productive; the timber, consisting of overcup, white-oak, elm, hackberry, and wild china, is large and abund- ant, and the adjoining prairie is covered with a heavy growth of the very best grass. The stream at fifteen miles above its confluence with Red river is twenty feet wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current, the water clear and sweet. From the point where I first struck it, good farms could be made along the whole course of the creek to its mouth. The country adjoin- ing is high, rolling prairie, interspersed here and there with groves of post-oak, and presents to the eye a most pleasing appearance. From the Little Witchita we ascended Red river along the south bank, over very elevated swells of undulating prairie, for twenty-five miles, when, on the 9th, we reached the high bluffs of a large tributary called the “Big Witchita river.” This stream flows over a clay bed from the southwest and enters Red river about eight miles below Cache creek. It is a deep, sluggish stream, one hundred and thirty feet wide, the water at a high stage very turbid, being heavily charged with red sedimentary matter; the banks abrupt and high, and composed of in- durated red clay and dark sandstone. The river is very tortuous in its cours , winding from one side to the other of a valley a mile in width, covered with a luxuriant sward of nutritious mezquite grass, which affords the very best pasturage for animals. The latitude of this place is 34° 25’ 51”. There are but few trees on the borders of the Big Witchita: ovcasion- ally a small grove of cotton-wood and hackberry is seen; but with this exception, there is no timber or fuel near. The valley of the river for ten miles above the mouth (the portion I examined) is shut in by bluffs about one hundred feet high, and these are cut up by numerous ravines, in many of which we found springs of pure cold water. The water in the main stream, however, is brackish and unpalatable. It is my impression that the Big Witchita is of sufficient magnitude to be navigable with small steamers of light draught at almost any stage of water. In consequence of the high water in Red river, we were detained at the mouth of the Witchita until the morning of the 12th, during which time our provisions being almost consumed, and not knowing positively when our wagon train would join us, I took two Indians with pack- horses, swam the river, and started out in quest of it. After going about CACHE CREEK. 7 twenty-five miles towards Fort Arbuckle, we struck the trail of the wagons, and following it two miles, overtook them. They had been detained several days by heavy rains, which had rendered the ground very soft, and in many places almost impassable. In consequence of this, some of the wagons had been broken, and the repairs caused a still further detention. Early on the following morning, after packing the horses with provisions, we returned to where we had left the command, and on our arrival found that the water in the river had fallen sufii- ciently to admit of fording. Accordingly, on the morning of the 12th, during a violent rain, we commenced the crossing, which was anything but good, as the quicksand in the bed of the river was such as to make it necessary to keep the wagons in constant motion. The moment they stopped, the wheels would sink to the axles, requiring much force to extricate them. By placing a number of men upon each side of the mules and wagons to assist them when necessary, we, however, suc- ceeded in reaching the opposite bank without any serious accident. The latitude at the point where we crossed is 34° 29’, The river is here two hundred yards wide and four feet deep, with a current of three miles per hour; the banks upon each side low and sandy, but not subject to over- flow. Passing out through the timbered land on the bottoms, we ascended the high bluff bordering the valley by a gradual slope of about a mile, which brought us upon a very elevated prairie, with the valley of Cache creek in view directly before us. We arrived there on the evening of the 13th, but found that the train had not yet comeup. During our march to-day we passed a small stream flowing into Red river, and directly at the point of crossing, in a gulley washed out by the rains, we found many pieces of copper ore, of a very rich quality, lying upon the surface.* Our time, however, was too limited to admit of a thorough examination of the locality. Cache creek is a stream of very considerable magnitude, one hundred and fifty feet wide and three feet deep, with a current of four miles per hour, flowing over a Ward clay and gravel bed between high abrupt banks, through a valley one mile in width, of rich black alluvion, and bordered by the best timber I have yet met with west of the Cross Timbers. * An analysis of this ore by Professor Shephard gives the following results: Copper (withitraces of iron) (eco e - oc ele sania saiesciainacincin sicisaeie 30. 30 ilies ca saseseee accor seme etch wlocar ae ao Ne melee eiciajaiaim anata serainee 30. 60 Oxygen and waters sens See IS 50 Se a a oe 34. 10 8 FORKS OF THE CREEK. Several varieties of hard wood—such as overcup, pecan, elm, hack- berry, ash, and wild china—are found here, among which there is much good timber. The overcup (Quercus macrocarpa) especially, is here seen of very unusual size, often from three to four feet in diameter. This tree, from the length of its stock, the straightness of its grain, and the facility with which it splits, is admirably adapted to building purposes, and is made use of extensively in the southwestern States. The soil in the valley is of such superior quality, that any kind of grain adapted to this climate could be produced without the aid of irri- gation.* Three miles above the mouth the stream divides into two branches, of about equal magnitude, both of them wooded throughout as far as I traced them, and the soil along them arable in the highest degree; indeed, its fertility is manifest from the very dense and rank vegetation everywhere exhibited. The water in the creek is alkaline, but quite palatable; and its temperature at the time we encamped upon it was 75° F. Our supply train arrived on the 14th; but as the recent rains had raised the water in the creek so much as to prevent our crossing, we were obliged to remain here until the 16th. This being the point upon Red river at which we were directed to commence our explorations, I propose from this time te make such extracts from my journal as I may conceive pertinent to the objects of the expedition, as set forth in the letter of special instructions, which I had the honor to receive from your office, with such other information as may be considered important, and the conclusions which I have arrived at after an examination of the whole country embraced within the limits of our reconnoissance. * An analysis of the sub-soil from Cache creek, by Professor Shephard, shows that it possesses strong and enduring constituents, and is admirably suited to the production of grain. It is eminently calcareous, gas will be seen from the following analysis of its composition: Il Caysem Neier m incre Matsa setup eieein chalae re mele Seyi ela rat aietateraeretorstete 82. 25 1EEROGE) Ot WRN NAGnochS Sasosodocobeord sbo4 uooenocadooe sHodoooodecs 2. 65 NITIES 58 eles Ae ee Se ageciao SeSsca pond Gad soso acaooue o4650C 55 Carbonsterofiime soc Mem es ance nine i eiate rele: mini a al tavern enalalel at vaeatnra 5. 40 @arbonatelotmapgnesiassclset cues nee tacos ces ene cone melee me cama 1.70 Water (hygrometric moisture)... .--- ---- ---- eee one ween cee ee nee 5. 50 Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash (only slight traces)....-....- 00 INDIAN SIGNS. 9: On-the morning of the 16th the water had fallen so much that, after digging down the banks, the wagons were taken over without difficulty. We found an excellent ford upon a rapid, where the water was shallow, and the bed hard gravel. Passing through the timbered land in the bottom, we struck out across the valley, and ascended the ridge dividing Red river from Cache creek; here we found a good road over smooth, high prairie, and after travelling 14789 miles, encamped upon a small affluent of the west fork of Cache creek, where we found good water and wood. In the course of the march to day, we met with numerous detached pieces of copper ore, mixed with volcanic scoria.* This scoria is found in large masses in the ravines we have passed, and extends back several miles from the creek. The other rocks have been principally sandstone. In the course of the day’s march we observed several Indian horse-tracks crossing our road, which were made just previous to the last rain. The direction they had been going was towards the Witchita mountains, and are the first Indian signs we have seen. * These ores consisted of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which is interspersed black oxide of copper and stains of malachite. According to Professor Shephard’s analysis, it only yields five per cent. of copper. Upon the river, a few miles south of our route, we found specimens of a very Tich ore, which Professor Shephard, after a careful analysis, pronounces to be a new species, which he has called Marcylite; it was coated with a thin layer of the rare and beautiful Atacamite, (muriate of copper,) and consists of— COPPER s+ 526 codeeke eodocd sec soe eseded cede6 cedod bee caadoaselcnte 54. 30 Oxygen and chloride._...........- powaabiodbe udebos docdauteae ee taee 36. 20 \NVGHIER. cone cone Sdho pp Odo DOOGdbénob BOOS OU Hooda CoUdsU obSSooIsooabe 9. 50 10 WITCHITA MOUNTAINS. CHAPTER II. WircHITA MOUNTAINS—PANTHER KILLED—BUFFALO TRACKS—SINGULAR AND UNAO- COUNTABLE RISE OF WATER-—BUFFALO SIGNS—HORSE CAPTURED—RAINS— ARRIVAL AT OTTER CREEK—BAROMETER BROKE—CHARACTER OF WITCHITA MOUNTAINS—BUFFALO KILLED—HIGH WATER. Soon after we had reached the high prairie ridge upon which we travelled to-day, we came in sight of the Witchita mountains, some twenty-five or thirty miles to the north, the chain seeming to be made up of a series of detached peaks, running from the northeast to the southwest, as far as the eye can reach. Rising as these mountains do upon the naked prairie, isolated from all other surrounding eminences, they form a very striking and prominent feature in the topography of the country. Wecannot yet form any definite estimate as to their height, but shall ayail ourselves of the first opportunity to determine this point. May 17.—On rising this morning, I learned, much to my surprise, that nearly all our oxen had wandered off during the night, and had not yet been found. I immediately sent seven of the teamsters in search of them; but after being absent two hours, they returned unsuc- cessful, reporting that they could get no track of them. I then started with one of our Delawares, and, after going a short distance from camp, took the track, and following it about a mile, came up with the animals, who had very quietly ensconced themselves in a grove of timber near the creek, As they had upon several occasions before given us trouble, and occasioned the loss of much time, I resolved that in future I would have them herded until late in the evening, and tie them to the wagons for the remainder of the night. As we did not march until very late this morning, we only made eleven miles, and encamped upon one of the branches of Cache creek. Our road has continued upon the high ridge lying between Red river and Cache creek, and has been perfectly firm, smooth, and level. We have to-day seen the first buffalo tracks. They were made during the last rains, and are about five days old. We are anxiously awaiting the time when we shall see the animals themselves, and antici- pate much sport. PANTHER KILLED. 11 In the evening, shortly after we had turned out our animals to graze, and had made everything snug and comfortable about us, ourselves reclining very quietly after the fatigue of the day’s march, one of the hunters came into camp and informed us that a panther had crossed the creek but a short distance above, and was coming towards us. This piece of intelligence, as may be supposed, created no little excitement in our quiet circle. Everybody was up in an instant, seizing muskets, rifles, or any other weapon that came to hand, and, followed by all the dogs in camp, a very general rush was made towards the spot indicated by the Delaware. On reaching the place, we found where the animal, in stepping from the creek, had left water upon his track, which was not yet dry, showing that he had passed within a short time. We pointed out the track to several of the dogs, and endea- vored, by every means which our ingenuity could suggest, to inspire them with some small degree of that enthusiasm which had animated us. We coaxed, cheered, and scolded, put their noses into the track, clapped our hands, pointed in the direction of the trail, hissed, and made use of divers other canine arguments to convince them that there was something of importance on hand; but it was all to no purpose. They did not seem to enter into the spirit of the chase, or to regard the occasion as one in which there was much glory to be derived from following in the footsteps of their illustrious predecessor. On the con- trary, the zeal which they manifested in starting out from camp, sud- denly abated as soon as their olfactories came in contact with the track, and it was with very great difficulty that we could prevent them from Tunning away. At this moment, however, our old bear-dog came up, and no sooner had he caught a snuff of the atmosphere than, suddenly coming to a stop and raising his head into the air, he sent forth one prolonged note, and started off in full cry upon the trail. He led off boldly into the timber, followed by the other dogs, who had now re- covered confidence, with the men at their heels, cheering them on and shouting most vociferously, each one anxious to get the first glimpse of the panther. They soon roused him from his lair, and after making a few circuits around the grove, he took to a tree. I was so fortunate as to reach the spot a little in advance of the party, and gave hima shot which brought him to the ground. The dogs then closed in with him, and others of the party coming up directly afterwards, fired several shots, which took effect, and soon placed him “hors du combat.” He was a fine specimen of the North American cougar (felis concolor,) measuring eight and a half feet from his nose to the extremity of his tail. 12 SUDDEN RISE OF WATER. May 18.—At 6 o’clock this morning we resumed our march, taking a course leading to the crest of the “divide,” as we thereby avoided many ravines which extended off upon each side towards the stream, and were always sure of a good road for our wagons. ‘This ridge runs very nearly on our course, but occasionally takes us some distance from Red river ; as, for example, our encampment of last night was about nine miles from the river, and we only came in sight of it once in the course of our march yesterday. As soon as the train was under way this morning, Capt. McClellan and myself crossed over the dividing ridge and rode to Red river. We found the bed of the stream about seven hundred yards wide; the val- ley enclosed with high bluffs upon each side; the soil in the bottom arenaceous, supporting a very spare herbage; and the water very turbid, and spread over a large surface of sand. The general course of the river at this point is a few degrees north of west. We are all in eager expectation of soon falling in with the buffalo, as we have seen the fresh tracks of quite a large herd to-day. As we advance, the country away from the borders of the water-courses becomes more barren, and woodlands are less frequently met with; indeed, up- on the river there is no other timber but cotton wood (Populus angu- lata,) and elm (Ulmus Americana,) and these in very small quantities ; for the most part the valley of the river along where we pased to-day is entirely destitute of trees. We have seen near here several varieties of birds, among which I ob- served the meadow lark (Stwrnella ludoviciana,) the pinnated grouse or prairie hen (etrao cupido,) the Virginia partridge (Ortya Virginzanus,) the killdeer (Charadrius vociferous,) and several varieties of small birds. We encamped upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where on our arrival we found no water except in occasional pools along the bed; however, in the course of an hour some of the men who had gone a short distance up the creek came running back into camp and crying, at the top of their voices, “ Here comes a plenty of water for us, boys!” And, indeed, in a few minutes, much to our astonishment and delight, (as we were doubtful about having a supply,) a perfect torrent came rushing down the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the banks, and continued running, turbid and covered with froth, as long as we remained. Our Delawares regarded this as a special favor from the Great Spirit, and looked upon it as a favorable augury to the success of our enterprise. To us it was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the last three days had been perfectly dry, with the sky cloudless. If the stieam had been of much magnitude we should have supposed that the ‘BUFFALO SIGNS. 13 water came from a distance where there had been rains, but it was very small, extending not more than three miles from the point where we en- camped. Our Delawares report that they have seen numerous fresh buffalo “sions,” and that we shall probably soon come upon the herds. We have captured a horse to-day which has a brand upon him, and has probably strayed away from some party of Indians. May 19.—Last evening the sky became overcast with heavy clouds, and frequent flashes of lightning were observed near the horizon in the north and northwest. Atmospheric phenomena of this character are res garded by the inhabitants of northern Texas as infallible indications of rain, and in verification thereof we had a very severe storm during the night. Much rain has fallen, and the earth has become so soft that I have concluded to remain here until the ground dries a little, particu- larly as it still continues raining at intervals, and the weather is very much unsettled. Frequent rains are very unusual upon the plains at this season of the year; the rainy season generally lasts until about the first of May, when the dry season sets in, and there is seldom any more rain until about the middle of August. The past spring has been un- ‘commonly dry—so much so, that vegetation has suffered from it: now, however, the herbage is verdant and the grass most luxuriant. May 20.—Although it continued raining violently during the night, and the ground was this morning mostly covered with water, we yet made an attempt to travel, but found the prairie so soft that it was with very great difficulty our teams were enabled to drag the wagons over it. We only made five miles and encamped upon a small affluent of Cache creek, which with all the small branches in the vicinity were full to the top of their banks. We find but few trees along the branch upon which we are encamped; hackberry and wild china are the only varieties. On the 21st we again made an effort to travel; but after going a short distance up the creek, found ourselves obliged, in consequence of the mud, to encamp and await dry weather. May 22—This morning, notwithstanding it was cloudy and the ground very far from being dry, we made another effort to proceed. Still keeping the high “divide,” we travelled in a westerly direction about eight miles, when we turned north towards two very prominent peaks of the Witchita mountains, and continued in this course until we arrived upon an elevated spot in the prairie, where we suddenly came in sight of Red river, directly before us. Since we had last seen the river it had changed its course almost by a right-angle, and here runs nearly north and south, passing through the chain of mountains in front 14 BAROMETER BROKEN. of us. We continued on for four miles further, when we reached a fine, bold, running creek of good water, which we were all rejoiced to see, as we had found no drinkable water during the day. We encamped about four miles above its confluence with Red river. This stream, which I have called Otter creek, (as those animals are abundant here,) rises in the Witchita mountains, and runs a course south 25° west. There are several varieties of wood upon its banks, such as pecan, black-walnut, white ash, elm, hackberry, cotton-wood, wild china, willow, and mezquite; and among these I noticed good building timber. The soil in the valley is a dark loam, and produces a heavy vegetation. The sub-soil is argillaceous. Otter creek is fitty feet wide, and one foot deep at a low stage of water.* The country over which we have passed to-day has been an elevated plateau, totally devoid of timber or water, and the soil very thin and sandy. We have not yet come in sight of any buffaloes, but have seen numerous fresh tracks. Antelopes and deer are very abundant, and we occasionally see turkeys and grouse. Captain McClellan was so unfortunate as to break his mountain barometer last night, which is much to be re- gretted ; as we had brought it so far in safety, we supposed all danger was passed, but by some unforeseen accident it was turned over in his tent and the mercurial tube broken. Fortunately, we have an excel- lent aneroid barometer, which we have found to correspond very accu- rately with the other up to this time, and we shall now be obliged to make use of it exclusively. On ascending Otter creek this morning as high as the point where it debouches from the mountains, I found the timber skirting its banks the entire distance, and increasing in quantity as it nears the mount- ains. The mountains at the head of the creek have abrupt rugged sides of coarse, soft, flesh-colored granite, mixed with other granulated igneous rocks. Greenstone, quartz, porphyry, and agate are seen in veins running through the rocks, and in some pieces of quartz, which were found by Doctor Shumard in the bed of the creek, there were minute particles of gold. As the continued rains have made the ground too soft to admit of travelling at present, we are improving the time by laying in a supply of coal, timber, &c., for our journey on the plains. May 24.—It commenced raining again during the night, and has continued without cessation all day. 4 *The temperature of the water in the creek at our encampment we found to be 72° F. BUFFALO KILLED. 15 May 25.—It has rained violently during all of last night, and has not ceased this morning. When this long storm will abate we do not pretend to form even a conjecture. It has occurred to me that possibly these rains may fall annually in the basin of Upper Red river; thus, perhaps, accounting for what is termed the June rise in the river. As to the cause of this rise there have been various conjectures; some sup- posing the river to have its sources in elevated mountain ranges, where the melting of the snows would produce this result; others, again, con- sider it to be by rains upon the head-waters of the river. This latter idea, however, seems rather improbable, as the country west of the Cross Timbers, so far as known, is generally subjected to very great drought from May io August. We are now in the immediate vicinity of the Witchita mountains, and it is possible they may have an effect upon the weather by condensing the moisture in the atmosphere, and causing rain in this particular locality. May 26—Some of the mountains which we ascended yesterday upon the east side of the creek, exhibited a conformation and composi- tion similar to those upon the west side—that of a coarse, soft, flesh- colored granite, the peaks conical, occasionally terminating in sharp points, standing at intervals of from a quarter to one mile apart. In some instances the rocks are thrown together loosely, but here and there showing a very imperfect and irregular stratification, with the seams dipping about twenty degrees with the horizon. The direction of this mountain chain is about south 60° west, and from five to fifteen miles in breadth. Its length we are not yet able to determine. Red river, which passes directly through the western extremity of the chain, is different in character at the mouth of Otter creek from what it is below the junction of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no, There it is only one hun- dred and twenty yards wide; the banks of red clay are from three to eight feet high, the water extending entirely across the bed, and at this time (a high stage) about six feet deep in the channel, with a rapid current of four miles per hour, highly charged with a dull-red sedi- mentary matter, and slightly brackish to the taste. Two buffaloes were seen to-day, one of which was killed by our guide, John Bash- man. Deer and antelopes are plenty, but turkeys are becoming scarce as we go west; grouse and quail are also occasionally seen here. As Otter creek continues very high, I intended, if Red river had been fordable, to have crossed that stream this morning and continued up the south bank; but we found the water about eight feet deep, and have no other alternative but to wait until it falls. Along the banks of Red river for 16 MINERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. the last thirty miles we have observed a range of sand-hills, from ten to thirty feet high, which appear to have been thrown up by the winds, and support a very spare vegetation of weeds, grape-vines, and plum- bushes. Upon the river the timber has diminished so much that we now find only here and there a few solitary cotton-woods. From the fact that the Witchita mountains are composed almost entirely of granite and other silicious rocks that usually accompany metallic veins, and that in many places along the range they bear evi- dent marks of great local disturbance, and from the many detached specimens of copper ore found upon the surface throughout this region, T have no doubt but that this will be found, upon examination, to be a very productive mineral district. WITCHITAS. 17 * ae OF LONGITUDE—LEAVE OTTER OREEK—BERRIES—ELK CREEK—PASS ~ CHITA eee Leen eeu BLUFFS—BUFFALOFS SEEN—SUYDAM co be E Mt y 2 ee the water still continues at too high a stage for cross! ing, we moved our camp up the creek about.a n nile this morning, where _ Pee Une found better grass for our animals. Shortly after we had pitch , e our tents, a large party of Indians made their appearance on the oppo-~ Fae } site bank, and requested us to cut a tree for fen to cross upon, as'they wished to have “a talk” with “ the captain.» pet. accordingly hada. t “2 tree cut, which fell across the stream, when they came over ue it and encam: jed near us. - “ae + They” ‘proved to be a hunting party of Witthitas, about one hundred _and fifty in number, and were commanded by an old chief, “ Canaje-° Hexie.” They had with them a large number of horses and inules,’ heavily laden with jerked buffalo meat, and ten wild horses which they had lassoed upon t the: prairie, They said they had been in search of us for several days; h aving learned we were coming up Red river, they « é were desirous of. nowing what our business, was in this part of their country. I replied to them that I was geing to the head of Red river, . for the purpose of visiting the Indians, cultivating their friendship, and delivering to them “a talk” from the Great Captain of all the whites, who, in token of his kindly feelings, had sent some presents to be dis- tributed among such of his red children as were friends to Americans; and as many of them continue to regard Texas as a separate and. inde. pendent republic, I endeavored to impress upon them the fact that the inhabitants of that State were of the same nation as the whites in other parts of the United States. I also told them that all the prairie tribes would be held responsible for depredations committed against the people of Texas, as well as elsewhere in our territories. I made inquiries con- _cerning the country through which we still have to pass in our journey, They said we would fin one more stream of good water about two days’ travel from here; that we should then leave the mountains, and after that find no more fresh water to the sources of the river. The chief represented the river from where it leaves the mountains as flow- - Vi ‘+ 18 DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS. ae ing over an elevated flat prairie eae totally destitute a. wood, or grass, and the only substituté’ for fuel that could be had was the buffalo “chips.” They remarked in the course of the interview that some few of their 6ld. men had been to the head of the river, and that ‘ the journey could be ‘made in eighteen days by rapid riding; but the accounts given by those who had made the journey were of such a character as to deter others from attempting it. They said we need fe _ have no apprehension of encountering Indians, as none ever visited that Ed ¥ " s00 ion’ of the country. I inquired of them if there were not holes i i the ee earth. where the water remained after rains. They said no; ; that t esoil was of so porous a nature that it soaked up the water as soon ‘as it fell. I then endeayored to hire one of their old men to accompany m me as. guide; but they said they were afraid to go into the country, as there ae no water, and they were fearful they would perish before they could return; The chief said, in conclusion, that perhaps I might not credit ‘* site statements, but that I would haye abundant evidence of the truth M4 he th eir assertions if I. ventured much further with my command. ~~ This account of the country ahead of us is truly discouraging; and it would seem that we have anything but an agreeable prospect before us. As ‘soon, however, as the creek will admit of fording, I shall, without subjecting the command to too great privations, push forward as far as possible into this most inhospitable and dreaded salt desert. As the Indians, from their own statements, had travelled a great distance to see us, I distributed some presents among themy with a few rations of pork and flour, for which we received their acknowledgments in their cus- « - ‘ tomary ey begging for everything else they saw. . May 28.—Captain McClellan has, by observations upon lunar ais tances, determined the longitude of our last camp upon the creek to be 100° 0' 45”, which is but a short distance from the point where the line dividing the Choctaw territory from the State of Texas crosses Red river. The point where this line intersects Otter creek is marked upon a large elm tree standing near the bank, and it will be found about four miles from the mouth of the creek upon the south side, with the longi- tude (100° 0’ 45”) and the latitude (84° 34’ 6”) distinctly marked upon it. Captain McClellan will start to-morrow morning for the purpose of running the meridian of the 100th degree of longitude to where it inter- sects Red river, and will mark the point distinctly. May 29 2 anee digging down the banks of the creek this morning, we were enabled to cross “the train and to resume our march up the river; our course led us towards the point where the river debouches : ee Ee ae! fee is a pint i sae a i ae ars PASS THE 100° OF WEST LONGITUDE. 19 oe from the srintntains and our present encampment is directly at the base of one of the peaks, near a spring of good water. This mountain is com- _ posed of huge masses of loose granite rock, thrown together in such con-. ’ fusion that it is seldo: om'any portion can be seen in its original position, There are veins of quartz, greenstone, and porphyry running through the granite, similar to those that characterize the gold-bearing formation OF. California, New Mexico, and elsewhere. This fact, in connexion with t ‘ Pie Benee Ace: in every instance, I ee. : -- them to itandee the enterprise and return home, so that as yet no thorough examination _ of the mountains has ever been made.* ie 7. ete noee, We find blackberries, raspberries, _goosebérties, and currents growing: upon, the mountains, and this is the only locality west of the Cross Tim- bers where Thave seen them. Grapes and plums are also abundant here, our ae suse some small particles of gold in the detritus “cna ES a cate - hal as elsewhere, upon ‘Upper Redriver. The grapesare rather smallerthan * ~ our fox-grapes, are sweet and juicy when ripe, and I haye no doubt would make good wine: they grow upon small bushes about the size of -currant-bushes, standing erect like them, and are ‘generally found upon the most sandy soil, along near the borders of the streams.. The plums also grow upon: ‘small bushes from two to six feet high, are very large and sweet, and in color vary from a light pink to a deep crimson ; they are the Chicasaw plum, (Prunus chicasa.) May 30.—Captain McClellan returned this morning, having traced the meridian of the 100th degree of west longitude to where it strikes Red river. This point he ascertained to be about six miles below the junction of the two principal branches, and three-fourths of a mile below a small creek which puts in from the north upon the left bank, near where the river bends from almost due west to north. At this point a cotton-wood tree, standing fifty feet from the water, upon the summit of a sand hill, is blazed upon four sides, facing north, south, east, and west, and upon S Specimens of quartz and black sand were collected in the mountains; and from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites in the quartz, and from its similarity to the gold-bearing quartz of California, we were induced to hope that it might contain gold, but a rigid analysis by Professor Shephard did not detect any trace of the precious metal. ee 20 ELK CREEK. these faces will be found the following inscriptions : upon. the north side, “ Texas, 100° longitude ;” upon the south side, “ Choctaw Nation, 100° longitude ;” upon the east side, “ Meridian of 100°, May 29, 1852 ;” and upon the west side Captain McClellan marked ‘my name, with ine date. At the base of the sand-hill will be found four cotton-wood trees, upon one of which is marked “Texas,” and upon another will be found “inscribed “20 miles from Otter creek.” nt Red river at this place is a broad, shallow stream, six hundred and fil y yards wide, running over a bed of sand. Its course is nearly due west ‘to the forks, and thence the course of the south branch.is-] wh abit eight miles, when it tums to nearly NW. The two brane a apparently ‘of about eqilal magnitude, and between them, at the nflu- a ence, is a very high blufh w hich can be seen for a long distance ‘around. it » We are encamped to-night near two mountains, about three miles from. - oye the river, and one mile west of the head of the west branch of Otter creek, near a spring of pure cold swater, which rises in the mountains and runs down past our camp. © sOursread leads along near the creek valley, which is from one to two miles wide, with a very productive soil, covered with a dense coating of grass, and skirted with a variety of hard timber. ‘May 31—Our course to-day was northwest until we encountered a bold running stream of good water, forty feet wide and three feet deep, flowing between very high and almost vertical red clay banks, through a. prea flat valley about two miles wide, of a dark alluvial soil, the fertility of which is obvious from the dense vegetation which it sup- ports. There i caer fe inge of pecan, elm, hackberry, Hee walnut, and cotton-wdod, along the banks of the creek; but the timber is not so abundant, or of as good a quality, as that upon Otter creek. The abrupt banks made it necessary for us to let our wagons down with ropes. We, however, crossed in a short time, and marched about three miles further, encamping near a small spring of good water, where the wood and grass were abundant. From the circumstance of having seen elk tracks upon thé stream we passed in our march to-day, I have called it “Elk creek.” I am in- formed by our guide that five years since elk were frequently seen in the Witchita mountains; but now they are seldom met with in this part of the country. The deer and antelopes still continue plenty, but turkeys are scarce. One that our greyhounds caught to-day is the first we have seen for several days. The pinnated grouse, quail, lark, mocking-bird, and swallow-tailed fly-catcher, are also frequently seen. : oe SALT FORK. 21 . Fane 1 —During our march to- day we passed along the borders of a swift running rivulet of clear water, which issues from springs in the mountains, and i is filled with a multitude of fish. We also passed near the base of a. very Pp ) ninent and symmetrical mountain, which can be seen for twenty ‘niles upon our route, and is a most excellent landmark. Several of the gentlemen ascended this peak with the barometer, and its altitude, as eer eres, is seven hundred and eighty feet pone oe base. ea al E oa Aas called this “Mount: Webster,” i in honor. fy | sa ais of ‘these mountains have a. “sak Bich is areblon in ey "greedily. There. aré also many springs of ‘cold, Jimpid water bursting out from the granite rocks of the mountains, and flowing down. through the valleys, thereby affording us, at all times, a ‘most. delicious bever age, _ where we were led to believe, from the rey esentations of the Witchitas, we would find only bitter and unpalatable water: “This j is an unexpected luxury to us, and we now begin to cherish ‘the hope that all the ‘discour- aging accounts of those Indians may prove equally erroneous. Taking an old Comanche trail this morning, I followed it to a narrow defile in the mountains, which led me up through a very tortuous and rocky gorge, where the well-worn path indicated that it had been trav- * elled for many years. It presented a most wild and romantic appearance as we passed along at the base of cliffs, which rose perpendicularly for several hundred feet directly over our heads upon either side. We saw the tracks of several elk that had passed the defile the day previous. After crossing the mountains, we descended upon the south side, where we found the river flowing directly at the base; and after ascending it about two miles, arrived at a point where it again divided into two nearly equal branches. The water in the south branch (which I have called “Salt Fork”) is bitter and unpalatable, and when taken into the stomach produces nausea; whereas that in the other branch, although not entirely free from salts, can be used in cases of great extremity. The compound resulting from the mixture of the water in the two branches below the confluence is very disagreeable to the taste. The north branch, which I propose to ascend, is, near the junction, one hun- dred and five feet wide, and three feet deep, with a very rapid current, and the water of much lighter color than that in the Salt Fork. Three miles below the fork, between the river and the base of the mount ains, there is a grove of post-oak timber, which Captain McClellan, j ea est degree. ; ‘They are covered with grasses, which our animals. eat ; 4 sh + Hy ' " 22 APPEARANCE OF GYPSUM. a who examined it, estimates to cover an area of four or five hundred acres. This is well suited for building purposes, being large, tall, and * ‘straight. There is also an extensive tract of mezquite woodland near Sige ee i our camp. + ¢ te One of the Delawares caught two bear cube in n the mountains to- -day; _ one of which he brought in his arms to camp. As the mountain chain crosses the river near here, and runs to the south of our course, we shall leave it to-morrow, and launch out into the prairie before us, following the bank of the river, which appears to flow ae an alma Jevel Xa tale ies Aijs I shall te have them filled whenever ae find water; and I hope. thereby to be enabled to reach the sources of the © * river Sout much suffering: I cannot leave. these mountains without ® a feeling of sincere regret. -- The beautiful and majestic scener y ha out the whole extent of that portion of the chain. we have traversed, with the, charming glades lying between them, clothed ‘with a luxuriant sward up to the very bases of the almost perpendicular and rugged sides, with the many springs of delicious water bursting forth from the solid walls of granite, and bounding along over the debris at the base, forcibly reminds me of my own native hills, and the idea of leaving these for the desert plains gives rise to an involuntary feeling of melan- choly similar to that I have experienced on leaving home. June 2.—We left our last night’s camp at 3 o'clock this morning, and taking a course nearly due west, emerged from the mountains out into the high level prairie, where we found neither wood nor water until we reached our present position, about half a mile from Red river, upon a small branch, with water standing in holes in the bed, and a few small trees scattered along the banks. The latitude at this point is 35° 3’; longitude, 100° 12’. : On leaving the vicinity of the mountains, we immediately strike a different geological formation. Instead of the granite, we now find carbonate of lime and gypsum. The soil, except upon the stream, is thin and unproductive. The grass, however, is everywhere luxuriant. Our animals eat it eagerly, and are constantly improving. Near our encampment there are several round, conical-shaped mounds, about fifty feet high, composed of clay and gypsum, which appear to have been formed from a gradual disintegration and washing away of the adjacent earth, leaving the sides exposed in such a manner as to exhibit a very perfect representation of the different strata. COPPER ORE. 93 June 3.—We were in motion again at 3 o'clock this morning, our = course leading us Geely towards a very pa range of hills crest of the. third storace or bench bordering the river valley. Their peculiar forma ‘ion, md very extraordinary regularity, give them the appearance, in. the distance, of gigantic fortifications, capped with bat- tlements of white. marble. Upon examination they were found to con- ‘ sist of a basis of. gree on,or blue clay, with two super-strata of beautiful white gypsum, ‘from five to fifteen feet in thickness, resting hori- vee yerfectly symmetrical that one can with difficulty divest. sloping: soul y to: the river. Several springs” “issue from the bluffs, and (as I have a ah paged it to be the case in the 2 gypsum ee the _ water is very bitter and disagreeable to the taste. a pele am inclined to believe that this same formation extend in a south- " siesherly direction from the Canadian river. to ‘this: ‘place, as T passed ¥ Pia, through a belt of country upon that stream somewhat similar to this, and in a position to be a continuation of it. _ We crossed the river near _ the lower extremity of the bluffs, at a point where we found it fifty yards wide and sixteen inches deep, with a current of three miles per hour, running over a bed of quicksand. (We passed without difficulty by keeping the animals in rapid motion while in the stream, and en- camped upon the high bluff on the south side. By following up the course of a ravine in the side of the gypsum bluffs, where there were detached pieces of copper ore, we discovered a vein of this metal which proved to be the “green carbonate,” but not of so rich a character as that we had seen before. At this point we are nearly opposite the” western extremity of the chain of Witchita mountains.* * Professor Shephard’s analysis of a specimen of the sub-soil from the valley of the river near our camp on the third June, gives the following result: PSHU EU GEE Nese ges es hee een ne Recep SOR EE Ces OP a a eee We OL) PRETORIUS POL OI es) ese a eR OTS Na ie tae oe ake iar Cv Re 8. 95 PANL UUme ee p seme toe an Oe cpa eta ar cy eis as AAS AL oe ay A LRN 8 ASS nel 1.50 @arhonatoso sles: se wale Re a at ae ice aA eee ae 1.10 Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and chloride of ROGIUNG SS Sones cor cae PERSIE Sie See ES ep eee Ee RPE BL 4. 65 SUES FS) SE pees ie ey SEARS gy oe Rt TO lg la Og 4. 50 100, 00 tally: upon a sub-stratum of red clay, with the edges wholly exposed, _ of the ide ea that: a must’ be the work of art,.so much does it res emble- ee: masonry. In many places there are perféet: tepresentations of the re-" oe: entering ae of. a bastion front, with the glacis revetted with turf, and — 24 BUFFALOES SEEN. June 4.—We made an early start this morning, and tra velled in the direction of a chain of bluffs which appeared to us to be upon the branch of the river we were ascending ; ; but on reaching them we found ourselyes upon a creek running towards the - Soli Fork, the bluffs of which we could see from the top"of an eminence 2 near the creek, about eight miles distant. Oa To regain our route we were obliged to: turn’ directly north, and march about six miles in this direction, when. we again came in sight of _ the main Worth Fork. In our route we have. “passed near several hills of similar formation to that of the gypsum bluffs before coon ed. "Sul phate 0 of lime i is found in large quantities throughout this se ction 1,7 and Bis) in yarious degrees of purity, from the,common plaster of Paris ‘to! th most -beautifully transparent selenite I have éver seen. 1F ob- 4 ’ . 4 + “served several specimens, from one to two inches 1 in thickness, that were % as absolutely colorless and limpid as pure water. 6, Weare encamped. upon the elevated prairie near.a dump’ ‘of trees, where. we find water*standing in pools. We have. found the grass abundaht,,and. the water and wood sufficiently so for our puree at all our eamps since we » left our visitors the Witchitas. As I was riding’ to- -day with one of our Delawarés, about three miles in advance of the train, we suddenly (as we rose upon an eminence in the prairie) came in sight of four buffalo cows with calves, very quietly grazing in a valley below us. We at once put spurs to our horses, and, with our rifles in readiness, set out at a brisk gallop in pursuit; but, un- fortunately, they had “the wind” of us, and were instantly bounding off over the hills at full speed. We followed them about three miles, but as they were much in advance at the outset we could not overtake them without giving our horses more labor than we cared about, and so . abandoned the chase. Our greyhounds caught two young deer upon _ the open prairie to-day, and they have had several chases in pursuit of the antelope, but have not as yet been able tocome up with them. The latitude of our present position is 85° 15’ 43”. June 5.—After marching nearly a mile from our last camp, we crossed a running brook of clear water, which had a slightly sulphurous taste and odor. It rises in the hills to the southwest and runs rapidly, like a mountain stream, into the main river. The appearance of this stream reminded me so forcibly of some I haye seen in the mountains of Pennsylvania, that I searched it faithfully, expecting to see the spotted trout, but only found a few sun-fish and minnows. _ From this brook to our present position, the country we traversed was exceedingly monotonous and uninteresting, being a continuous suc- Bie. of f slpharous vata noticed pecan, ‘al, ‘ continues. ot and the water of the main river, although not. good, ei cal ised ‘The bed of the river is here one hundred fe pride, ' ate fh j quail. SUYDAM CREEK. 95 cession of barren sand-hills, producing no other herbage than the arte- misia, and a dense growth of dwarf oak bushes, about eighteen inches high, which seem to have attained their full: “maturity, and bear an abundance = ‘sttall acorns. The same bush is frequently met with am river, near this pitude, and is teers ste upon : ‘ eeteere yal Beery, and cotton-wood trees. The grass still . with but little water passing over the surface, being mostly ab ed. be the: "quicksands. © ‘Our Indians brought in thie deer this efening, and” _ the greyhounds have. caught a full-grown doe ‘in a’fair chase upon agile ’ open prairie.” We occasionally see a few turkeys, but they are not as abundant as we fo und them below here. There are ‘several varieties of ve ee birds around. ) camp—among ‘which we. saw lark, mockingbird, king-bird, swallow, ia iy ge and P it June 6 Starting at 3 o'clock this’ moming, Swe oe the river near our last camp, and passed over a yery elevated and undulating prairie for ten miles, when we reached a large creek flowing into Red river, which, in compliment to my friend, Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city, who accompanied the expedition, I have called “Suydam creek,” It is thirty feet wide; the water clear, ‘but slightly brackish, and flows rapidly over a sandy bed between abrupt clay banks, which are fringed with cotton-wood trees. As the water in the main river near our camp is very bitter, we were obliged to make use of that in the creek. Above our present encampment there appears to be a range of sand- hills, about three miles wide, upon each side of the river, which are. covered with the same herbage as those we passed below here. s We have seen the trail of a large party of Comanches, which our guide says passed here two days since, going south. I regret that we _ did not encounter them, as I was anxious to make inquiries concerning our onward route. These Indians were travelling with their families. Upon a war expedition they leave their families behind, and never carry _ lodges, encumbering themselves with as little baggage as possible. On the other hand, when they travel with their patie: they always carry all their worldly effects, including their portable lodges, wherever they go; and as they seldom find an encampment upon the prairies where oJ @ white owl, meadow- ‘ + ae teen 26 COMANCHE SIGNS. poles for the frame-work of the lodges can be procured, they invariably transport them from place to place, by attaching them to each side of the pack-horses, with ‘one end trailing upon the giound. These leave parallel marks upon the soft ie ie: they have passed, and enable one at once to determine whether the trail is made by a war party or - otherwise. The Comanches, during the past-year, have not been - friendly with the Delawares and Shales and although there has as yet been no organized demonstration of Me ies, they have secretly ie several men, and in consequence our hunters entertain a feeling. f revenge towards them. ‘They, however, go out alone every: day upon eit hunts, are frequently six or eight fails from the comman 1d, and m. to have 1 no fears of the Comanches, as they are lable to encounter e them at any moment and being so poorly mounted that they could ae not escape, their only alternative would be to act on the defensive. re ‘have cautioned them upon the subject several times, but they say that . they are not afraid to “meet any. of the prairie. Indians provided the . odds are not greater than six to one. They are well ; armed with good rifles—the use Of which they understand perfectly —are ‘intelligent, active, fea brave, and in -my opinion will ere long take ample satisface ™ tion upon the Comanches for every one of ne nation that falls by their hands. BUFFALO CHASE | ae Eat “ed ” Me J : “IYDIANS SEEN—METHOD OF ENOAMPING—-WONDERFUL POWERS OF WARES—BEAVER DAMS—KIOWAY CREEK. * Tune 4, —Taking two of the Indians this morning, I went out for the purpose of inking an examination of the surrounding country. and ascertaining whether good water could be found upon our route for our - next encampment. We had gone about three miles ina westerly direc- tion, when we struck a fresh buffalo track leading north ; thinking we cea overtake him, we followed up the trace until we came near the summit of an eminence’ upon the prairie, when I sent one of the Indians _ (John Bull) to’ the top of the hill, which was about one-fourth ofa mile ‘ distant,-to look for the animal. He hadno sooner arrived at the point se indicated than. we saw him make a signal for.us to join him, by riding. _ around rapidly several times in a circle and immediately putting off at full speed over the hills. . We set out at the same instant upon a smart gallop, and on reaching the crest of the ° hill discovered the terrified animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John Bull in hot pursuit about five hundred yards behind him. As we followed on down the prairie we had a fine view of the chase. The Delaware was mounted ~* upon one of our most fractious and spirited horses, that. had never seen a buffalo before, and on coming near the animal he seemed perfectly ae any one of which must have inevitably unseated hisrider had he not been : a most expert and skilful horseman. During the time the horse Was | plunging and making such efforts to escape, John, while he controlled ” him with masterly adroitness, seized an opportunity and gave the buffalo’ the contents of his rifle, breaking one of his fore-legs, and somewhat retarding his speed: he still kept on, however, making good running, and it required all the strength of our horses to bring us alongside of him. Before we came up our most excellent hunter, John Bull, had recharged his rifle and placed another ball directly back of the shoulder ; - but so tenacious of his life is this animal, that it was not until the other Delaware and myself arrived and gave him four additional shots, that we brought him to the ground. Packing the best pieces of the meat upon our horses, we went on, and in a few miles found a spring-brook, frantic with fear, making several desperate surges to the right and left, - . os git Be “3 _ _ Bee ey . 4 ae ee = a s* = * . oe a * | 28 LOESS CREEK. in which there was an abundance of good water, where I determined to make our next encampment. On our return we saw a pack of wolves, with a multitude of 1 Tayens, making merry over the carcass of the buffalo we had killed in the. morning. yee aly -. Thinking that the Comanches, Tne trail we had seen yesterday, te mights possibly be encamped within a few miles of us, I this morning . directed Captain McClellan to take the interpreter and follow the trace. ne After going about fifteen miles he found one of their camps that had been abandoned two days previous; and as there was no prospect of overtaking them he returned, after ascertaining that ney were travelling a southerly course towards the Brazos river. In many places above the Witchita mountains we have found avitt of “quartz and scoria, but the boulders of greenstone, granite, and porphyry, were only seen below the upper end of the range; and the nearer we approached the mountains from below, the larger and more angular _ became the fragments, until, on reaching near the base, large angular _ pieces nearly covered the* surface of the eround,. thereby leading us to the™ “conclusion that here is the source of the boulders we lave seen below the mountains: ; whereas the drift. found here must come from above, as we have yet discovered no igneous rocks in place since we left the mountains. The formation here is a dark limestone. overlaid with loose scoria. The earth upon the stream is highly arenaceous, and the soil poor. The grass, however, as we have found it everywhere upon Red river and its tributaries, is of a very superior quality, consisting of several varieties of grama and mezquite. The range of the grama grass, so far as my observations have ex-" _ tended, i is bounded on the north by near the parallel of 36° north latitude, - and on the east by about the meridian of 98° west longitude. It ex- _tends south and west, as far as I have travelled; it appears, however, to » flourish better in about the latitude of 33° than in any other. . As there _ is generally a drought on these prairies from about the 1st of May to the middle of August, it would appear that the particular varieties of grasses that grow here do not require much moisture to sustain them, - June 8.—Our route to-day has been over a rolling prairie, in many places covered with the dwarf oak bushes before mentioned. We are encamped upon a creek of clear and wholesome water, which Dr. Shu- mard has named “Loess creek,” from the circumstance that the soil upon the stream contains.a deposit of land and fresh-water shells, among which are found those of Pupa muscorum, Succiena elongata, ‘and Helix plebecum, forming a pulverent grayish loam similar to the loess found upon the Rhine. oii, fais an * SWEET-WATER CREEK. 99 No fossils were seen in this silt, but our time would not admit of making a very thorough examination of the locality. Specimens of the shells were, however, procured, to’ accompany our collection, and were found to be similar to those described by Lyell: ‘as occurring j in Europe. The creek is twenty feet wide, and eight inches deep; runs cle between low banks, with only a few cotton-wood and elm tre them. There are also: some few small knots or clumps of trees upc elevated prairie lands in the vicinity. The observations for late * this point give the result, Bb DAC hO ; * os June 9.—At- half-past 2 o'clock this morning we were en nies again over a very “elevated prairie for six miles, when we arrived in the valley of a fine stream» ‘of pure water, twelve feet wide, and one foot deep, with a rapid current. This stream is fringed by large cotton-wood trees along the banks, and the grass in the valley is most excellent, consisting of the’ mezquite and wild rye, which our animals are very Sy te — fond of. From the fact of the water being.so good in this stream, we « . called it Sweet-y rater creek. The valley is bordered upon each side | bluffs from. ten to forty feet high; the 2 soil a reddish loam, and ind £3 productive, deing § somewhat similar in appearance to that in the bottoms of Red river below the confluence of the | Wilchita, where the most abundant crops are produced. *, ete As we ascend the river, we have conclusive evidence of the oe of _ the representations of our visitors, the Witchitas. It will be remembered Bichcy | told us that the entire country was a perfectly desolate waste, where neither man nor beast could get subsistence, and that there was “no danger from Indians, as none ever resorted to this section of Red river. Their statements have proved false’ in every particular, as we have thus far found the country well watered, the soil in many places _ | ~ good, everywhere yielding an abundance of the most nutritious grasses, .._~ aa &-% with a great sufficiency of wood for all the purposes of the traveller. “we 7 ‘* a ill ‘* + ae There are several old camps near us, which appear to have been occu- ? a. pied some two or three weeks:since by the Comanches; the grass where their animals have grazed is not yet grown up. Red river, which i - about six miles distant from our present position, is eighty yards wide, “with but a very small portion covered with water, running over the quicksand bed. The banks upon each side are from four to ten feet high, and not subject to inundation. The valley is here about half a mile wide, shut in by sandy bluffs thirty feet high, which form the border to a range of sand-hills extending back about five miles upon each side of the river. The soil in the valley is sandy and sterile, producing little but scattering weeds and stunted brush. od ey 4 Lane n 2 * baad a 30 MODE OF ENCAMPING. June 10.—Our course, to- -day: has been almost Aid west, up the north bank of Sweet-water ereek.. The country upon each side of the valley . is high and gently undulating, and the geological formation has a fr om deep-red sandstone to carboniferous limestone... _.-. The weather for the last four days has been very cold, as will be seen | ‘®. the meteorological tables appended ; indeed, I think I have never | in is latitude known the thermometer to range as low at this season. ‘Upon the plains where I have heretofore travelled during the summer “ months, a strong breeze has. generally sprung up about 8 o’clock in the morning and lasted until after night, reaching its maximum intensity about 3 o’clock in the afternoon. This breeze comes from, the south, and generally rises and subsides with as much regularity as the sea- breeze upon the Atlantic coast, which fact has given rise to the opinion that it comes from the Gulf of Mexico. These cool and bracing winds temper the atmosphere, heated to intensity by the almost vertical ays - of the sun, rendering it comfortable and even pleasant in midsummer. Servations were made this’ evening for the detenminalien of latitude, : Soha the result showed Sti 26" 1... ; ‘y rg June 11.—We crossed Sweet. water creek at 3 0 “lock this morning, and, keeping back upon t the hi nigh prairie bordering the valley, travelled « eight miles in nearly a west course, when we crossed two fresh Indian a | trails, which, from the circumstance of there being no trace of lodge- poles, our guide pronounced to have been made by war parties; and he states that he has during the day seen. four Indians upon a hill in the distance taking a look at us, but that they turned immediately on seeing - him and Sat ped off. The fact of their not being disposed to commu- niéate with us looks suspicious, and they may have hostile intentions ‘towards us; but with our customary precautions, I think we shall be ct to receive them, either as friends or enemies. y a greek, (which has generally been the case,) to place ourselves in the con-_ “Our usual method of encamping is, where we can find the curve of a “cavity, with the wagons and tents extending around in a semi-circle, uniting at each extremity of the curve of the creek, so as to enclose a sufficient space for the command; thus we are protected on one side by the creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. Im- mediately after reaching our camping-ground, all the animals are turned out to graze, under charge of the teamsters, who are armed, and remain constantly with them, keeping them as near the command as the supply of grass will’ permit. We generally commence the day’s march about - 3 o'clock in the morning, and are ready to encamp by 11 o’clock; this - gives ample time for the animals to graze before night, when they are RESORT OF INDIANS. ol driven. into oe The horses and maules are picketed within the en- closure, while the oxen are tied up ‘to the wagons; sentinels are then posted upon each side of the encampment, and “kept constantly walking in such directions that. they may.haye the animals continually i in view. Many have supposed that cattlé in a journey upon the plains would perform better and keep in better condition by allowing them to graze. in the morning before starting upon the day’s march, which would i in- yolve the necessity of travelling during the heat of the day. These persons are of opinion that animals will only feed at particular hours of the day, and that the remainder of the day must be allotted them for rest and sleep, and that unless these rules are adhered to they will not thrive. This “opinion ever. is, | think, erroneous, and I also think that cattle will adapt theniselves to any circumstances, so far as regards > their working hours and their hours of rest. If they have been’ accus- Mae ae | ; Saas 5 > Aig - tomed. to labor at particular hours of ‘the day, and the order of things ‘is at once reversed, the working hours being changed into hours of rest,. they may not do as well” for a few days, but they soon become” accus- es tomed to. the change, and eat and rest as well as before. By starinic at an early hour in the morning during the summer months, the day’s march is over before it becomes very warm; whereas, (as I have observed,) if the animals are allowed. time ‘to graze before starting, the march must continue during the middle of the day, when the animals (particularly oxen) will suffer much from the heat of the ‘sun, and, so far as my experience goes, will not keep in as good condi- tion as when the other plan is pursued. T have adopted this course from _ the commencement of our journey, and our oxen have continued to im- , prove upon it. Amother and very important advantage to be derived . from this course is found in the fact that the. rina being tied up during the night, are not liable to be lost or stolen. The country over which we are now passing, except directly in the ee 34: = valleys of the streams, is very elevated and undulating, interspersed with a ae round conical hills, thrown up by the winds, with the apices very acute ; the soil, a ight gray sand, producing we other vegetation than. oe and dwarf oaks. The creek up which we have been travelling runs almost parallel to Red river, and affords us fine camping-places at any point. From the very many old Indian camps that: we have seen, and the numerous stumps of trees which at different periods have been cut by the Indians along the whole course of the creek, we infer that this is, and has been for many years, a place of frequent resort for the Coman- ches, and I have no doubt they could always be found here at the time * 32 SAGACITY OF INDIANS. the buffaloes are passing back and* forth 1 in their mig ioe chine the : spring and winter, The parties of Indians whose trails we crossed in our march to-day were going south, and not having thietr families with them, our inter- preter infers that they are bound for Mexico upon a foray. Had we met them and learned that such was their intention, we might perhaps have dissuaded them from proceeding further. They may have seen “our trail: if so, and they are friendly, they will visit us. Should they not come in, however, I shall send out an Indian after them to ascertain where they encamped and the time they left, In coneana ne of their known hostility, our Delawares are getting somewhat cautious about encountering them. The interpreter says he would not be afraid to meet five or six, but thinks he would avoid a greater number. I directed him, in the event of his meeting a party, to invite them to come to camp, _ aslhada talk for them. He ae sf Pups he want to kill me—I not" tell him.” : This than has often been. -among the prairie Andiane. tidied their language and character well, and the moment he sees a trail made by them, or an old deserted camp, 6 at once determines of what nation they were; the number of horses and mules in their possession; whether they were accompanied by their families, and whether they were upon a war expedition or otherwise; as also the time (within a few hours) of . their passing, with many plier facts of importance. These faculties appear to be intuitive, and confined exclusively to the Iniian: I have never seen a white man that could judge of these mat- _ ters with such certainty as they. For example, upon passing the trail of the Indians to- day, one of our Delawares looked for a moment at the ” foot- -prints, picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed, and said the trail was made two days since, when to us it had every appearance sof being quite fresh ; subsequent observations satisfied us that he was correct. ; é Upon another occasion, in riding along over the prairie, I saw in the sand what appeared to me to be a bear-track, with the impression ef all of the toes, foot, and heel; on pointing it out to one of the Indians, he instantly called my attention to some blades of grass hanging about ten inches over the marks, and explained to me that while the wind is blow- ing, these blades are pressed towards the earth, and the oscillation there- by produced had scooped out the light sand into*the form I have men- tioned. This, when explained, was perfectly simple and intelligible ; but I am very much inclined to believe the solution of it would have puzzled the philosophy of a white man for a long time. BEAVERS. 33 A few such menas the Delawares attached to each company of troops upon the Indian frontier would, by their knowledge of Indian character and habits, and their wonderful powers of judging of country, following tracks, &c., (which soldiers cannot be taught,) enable us to operate to much better advantage against the prairie tribes. In several instances when we have had our animals stray away from camp, I have sent six or eight teamsters for them, who, after searching a long time, would often return unsuccessful. I would then send out one Indian, who would make a circuit around the camp until he struck the tracks of the lost animals, aud following them up, would invariably return with them in a short time. In this way their services are almost indispensable upon an expedition like ours. June 12.—Our course to-day was very nearly due west, up the left bank of Sweet-water creek, until, within about three miles of our present position, we turned with the course of the stream more northwardly. The country we passed over was similar to that of yesterday, but not so sandy or so heavy upon our teams. We came in sight of a line of high bluffs this morning, which were apparently about ten miles to the northwest of us. They are very elevated, and present much the appear- ance of the borders of the great Staked Plain, or the “Llano estacado” of the Mexicans. : On reaching camp we found that a large party of Indians, with very many animals, had been encamped here about two weeks since. Nu- merous trails and horse tracks were seen in every direction, and their animals have cropped the grass for a long distance around. Their lodges were pitched near our camp, and our guide pronounced them to have been Kioways. On inquiring how he could distinguish a Kioway from a Comanche camp, he said the only difference was that the former make the holes for their fires about two feet in diameter, while the latter only make them about fifteen inches. A community of beavers have also selected a spot upon the creek near our camp, for their interesting labors and habitations. I know of no animal concerning which the accounts of travellers have been more extraordinary, more marvellous or contradictory, than those given of the beaver. By some he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a level with man. He has been said, for instance, to construct houses, with several floors and rooms; to plaster the rooms with mud in such a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six or eight inches in diameter into the ground, and to perform many other astound- ing feats, which I am inclined to believe are not supported by credible testimony. Laying aside these questionable statements, there is quite 34 RED RIVER. sufficient in the natural history of the beaver to excite our wonder and admiration. For instance, at this place, upon an examination of the dam they have constructed, I was both astonished and delighted at the wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they have displayed. In the selection of a suitable sight, and in the erection of the structure, they appear to have been guided by something more than mere animal instinct, and have exhibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and the action of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scien- tific millwright would have done. Having chosen a spot where the banks on each side of the creek were narrow and sufficiently high to raise a head of about five feet, they selected two cotton-wood trees about . fifteen inches in diameter, situated above this point, and having an in- clination towards the stream: these they cut down with their teeth, (as the marks upon the stumps plainly showed,) and, floating them down to the position chosen for the dam, they were placed across the stream with an inclination downward, uniting in the centre. This formed the foundation upon which the superstructure of brush and earth was placed, in precisely the same manner as a brush dam is made by our mill- wrights, with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is raised to a sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, except in the centre, where there is a sluice or waste-wier, which lets off the superfiuous water when it rises so high as to endanger the structure. In examining the results of the labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me that the plan of erecting our brush dams must have been originally suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are very similar. I watched for some time upon the banks of the pond, but could see none of the animals. I presume they think we make too much noise in our camp to suit them, and deem it most prudent to remain concealed in their sub-marine houses. I observed one place above the pond where they had commenced another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut down two trees on opposite sides of the creek; but as they did not fall in the right direction to suit their purposes, the work was abandoned. As the course of Sweet- water creek turns too much to the north above here, we shall leave it ; and it is with much regret that we are obliged to do so, as it has afforded us the best of spring water, with good grass and wood, for five days. June 18.—Leaving the command this morning encamped upon Sweet-water creek, I made a trip to Red river, which is about six miles in a southwest direction; it was one hundred yards wide where we RIVER TERRACES. 35 struck it, with but a very small portion covered with water, and, very much to our astonishment, for the first time, upon tasting it, we found. it free from salts. Following up the stream about a mile, we discovered that this good water all issued from a small stream that put. in upon the north bank, and above this the bed of the main river was dry. As there is an incrustation of salt upon the bed of the river below the creek, where the water has subsided after a high stage, I have no doubt but that the water above here will be found to be impregnated with salts, and that all the fresh water now found in the river comes from the creek mentioned. Along the whole course of Red river, from Cache creek to this point, we find three separate banks or terraces bordering the river; the first of which rises from two to six feet above the bed of the stream. The second is from ten to twenty feet high; and the third, which forms the high bluff bordering the valley of the river, is from fifty to one hundred feet. The first bank is in places subject to inundation, and generally is from fifty to two hundred yards wide. The second is never submerged, and is from two to fifteen hundred yards wide. The third bank bounds the high prairie. We found the range of sand-hills still continuing along the river; and we have constantly during the. day been in sight of the line of bluffs which I supposed to be the border of the “Llano estacado.” We also passed the trail of a very large party of Indians, who were ascending the river before the\last ram, (some two weeks since.) After leaving the river on our return to camp, we found two fine brooks of cold spring water, with good wood and grass upon them, and as they are in our course, I propose to make our next camp upon one of them. June 14.—Making an early start this morning, we travelled eleven miles in a westerly course, when we reached a very beautiful stream of good spring water, flowing with a uniformly rapid current through a valley about a mile wide, covered with excellent grass. There is a heavy growth of young cotton-wood trees along the borders of the creek, and among them are found immense quantities of that peculiar variety of grape I haye before mentioned as growing in the sand-hills along the valley of Red river. They grow here upon low bushes about four feet high, similar to those cultivated varieties that are trimmed and cut down in the spring. When growing near the trees they never rest upon them, like our eastern varieties of the wild grape, but stand separate and erect, like a currant-bush. 36 ANTI-SCORBUTICS. This creek appears to be a place of winter resort for large numbers of the prairie Indians. We found many old camps along the stream, and the ground for several miles was thickly strewn with cotton-wood sticks, the bark of which had been eaten off by their animals. The prairie tribes are in the habit of feeding their favorite horses with the cotton-wood bark in the winter; and it is probably the abundance of this wood that has attracted them here. We found the stumps of the trees they had cut from year to year in various stages of decay—some entirely rotten, and others that had been cut during the past winter. The fine mezquite and grama grass furnishes pasturage for their animals during a great part of the winter; and the cotton-wood is a never-failing resort when the grass is gone. As we are now nearly opposite the country on the Canadian river occupied by the Kioway Indians, it is quite probable that some of that nation winter at this place; and I have no doubt but that they could be found here at any time during that season. I have called the creek Kioway creek. Game is abundant in this vicinity; and our hunters keep the entire command constantly supplied with fresh meat, so that we have not yet had oceasion to kill one of our beef-eattle. Seven deer and one antelope were killed to day. For months previous to leaving Fort Belknap, with the exception of a few wild onions, my men had eaten no vegetables. Some of them had been attacked with scurvy, and all were more or less predisposed to it. I have, therefore, been exceedingly anxious to take all possible precautions for warding off this most dreaded disease. As I had no anti-scorbutic, with the exception of a very few dried apples and a little citric acid, I was obliged to make use of everything the country afforded as a substitute for vegetables. I caused the men to eat greens whenever they could be obtained, with the ‘green grapes occasionally ; and to-day we were so fortunate as to discover a fine bed of wild onions (a most excellent anti-scorbutic) upon some sand-hills over which we passed. A quantity were collected by the men and made use of freely. KIOWAY ENCAMPMENT. ao CHAPTER Y. REACH THE SOURCE OF THE NORTH BRANCH OF RED RIVER—BOTTLE BURIED— ARRIVED UPON THE CANADIAN——DEPARTURE FOR MIDDLE FORK—INDIAN BATTLE GROUND—PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS—SOURCE OF THE MIDDLE FORK—SOUTH FORK— PRAIRIE-DOGS. P June 15.—On aecount of the morning being dark and the clouds threatening rain, we did not leave camp until daylight this morning. We, however, made a good day’s march over a very heavy sandy country, and after crossing the main river, encamped upon the south bank. During the day we crossed several small branches, in which we found good water; and in several places where there was timber upon them, we saw old Indian camps. At one place I noticed a large grove of cotton-wood which had been entirely enclosed with a brush fence by the Indians; this was probably made for the purpose of keeping their animals from straying away. On reaching the river we found that it had very much diminished in magnitude since we had last seen it. It was now only fifteen yards wide, the water clear, and to the taste entirely free from salts. The herbage for the last twenty miles of our march has suffered much from drought, and the grass in many places upon the elevated lands is entirely burnt up. We, however, continue to find excellent grass in the valleys near the borders of the small streams, and upon the river itself. The only varieties of timber that we find upon this part of Red river are cotton-wood and hackberry, the former greatly predominating and of large dimensions. Indeed, I have never seen so much timber at any other place upon the plains, in this longitude, as we find here. We have had the line of high bluffs in sight before us all day, and we are now within a few miles of them. The geological formation through the country over which we are passing is a light-colored calca- reous sandstone, covered with a drift of quartz and scoria. Near our present position, upon the opposite side of the river, there has been a very large band of Kioways encamped, about two weeks since, and their animals have cropped much of the grass for several miles around us. From the multitude of tracks that we see in every direction, there must have been an immense number of animals. On leaving here their course was south. 38 BOTTLE BURIED. June 16.—Striking our tents at three o’clock this morning, we fol- lowed up the south bank of the river, which runs in a westerly course for eight miles, when it suddenly turns to the southwest, and here the elevated bluffs which we have had in view for several days past approach : the river upon each side, until there is but a narrow gorge or canon for the passage of the stream. These bluffs are composed of calcareous sand- stone and clay, rising precipitously from the banks of the stream to the height of three hundred feet, when they suddenly terminate in the almost perfectly level plain of the “Llano estacado.” Here the river branches out into numerous ramifications, all running into the deep gorges of the plain. Taking the largest, we continued up it, riding directly in the bed of the stream for about five miles, when we reached the source of this branch of the river; and by ascending upon the table- lands above, we could see the heads of the other branches which we had passed a few miles below. The latitude at this place as determined by several observations of Polaris, is 85° 35’ 8”, and the longitude 101° 55’. These results make our position only about twenty-five miles from the Canadian river; and as I am anxious to determine how our observations conform to those we made in ascending that stream in 1849, I propose taking ten men, and leaving the main body of the command to guard our oxen and stores, to make a trip in a due north course to the Canadian. This will serve to show the connexion between that stream and a certain known point upon the head of the north branch of Red river; and is, in my opinion, a geographical item which it is important to establish and con- firm by actual observation, particularly as the-Canadian has by several travellers been mistaken for Red river. At our encampment of this evening is the last running-water we have found in ascending this branch of Red river. We are near the junction of the last branch of any magnitude that enters the river from the north, and about three miles from the point where it debouches from the plains, in a grove of large cotton-wood trees upon the south bank of the river. Under the roots of one of the largest of these trees, which stands near the river, and below all others in the grove, I have buried a bottle, containing the following memorandum: “On the 16th day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, composed of Captain R. B. Marcy, Captain G. B. McClellan, Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Doctor G. C. Shumard, with fifty-five men of company D, fifth infantry, en- camped here, having this day traced the north branch of Red river to its sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. Strain, of Fort Washita, and Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New York city.” This CANADIAN RIVER. 39 tree is blazed on the north and east sides, and marked upon the north side with a pencil as follows: “Exploring Expedition, June 16, 1852.” An incident happened this evening, which for a short time gave us much uneasiness and alarm. It was caused by one of the gentlemen of the party walking out from camp alone without our knowledge, and remaining away about two hours before we discovered his absence. It was after dark when I first learned that he was not in camp; and as there were many fresh signs of Indians around, I was fearful he had fallen into their hands. I immediately started out the Delawares in search of him, and ordered our six-pounder to be discharged, with muskets at short intervals, and at the same time made preparations for starting out myself; but no sooner had the cannon been fired than he made his appearance, in a state of much excitement, and had evidently been greatly confused and alarmed, as is always the case with persons who are lost. He states that he had gone out for the purpose of taking a short walk, and in returning over a hill, had lost sight of the camp ; that in endeavoring to make his way back he had become so much confused, that after night he took ours for a Comanche camp, and dared not approach until he heard the signal-gun. June 17 to 19.—On the 17th, accompanied by three gentlemen of the party, with five soldiers and three Indians, I started in a northerly direction to go in search of the Canadian river. Our route led us im- mediately out upon the elevated plateau of the Staked Plain, where the eye rests upon no object of relief within the scope of vision. Pursuing our way over this monotonous and apparently boundless plain for fifteen miles, our eyes were suddenly gladdened by the appear- ance of a valley and bluffs before us, which I at once recognised to be upon the Canadian; and after travelling ten miles further, we found ourselves upon that stream, making the entire distance from the head of Red river to the Canadian twenty-five miles. This was a matter of much gratification and interest to us, as it developed and confirmed the accuracy of our calculations regarding the geographical position of the sources of Red river. The point where we struck the Canadian is at the mouth of a small stream called Sandy creek upon the map of the road from Fort Smith to Santa Fé. This being near longitude 101° 45’, and latitude 35° 58’, makes the calculations for the two positions approximate very closely. The formation upon the Canadian at this point is very similar to that upon the Red river, being composed of light-colored friable arenaceous limestone, resting upon a stratum of red sand, with a sub-stratum of blue clay; the whole overlaid by a drift of quartz, felspar, and agate. The soil upon the creek is a dark-brown 40 M’CLELLAN’S CREEK. loam, covered with a heavy coating of wild rye and mezquite; and if the drought of summer did not prevent, would produce abundant crops. The only varieties of timber found here are the wild china, hackberry, willow, and cotton-wood; the latter, in some instances, growing to an enormous size. One tree, standing upon the creek near the Canadian, which we measured, was nineteen and a half feet in circumference at five feet above the ground. The Santa Fé road passes directly along the river-bank at this place, and upon the north side of the river stand four cotton-wood trees; these are blazed, and the distance in a due south course to the head of Red river, with the date of our arrival there, marked upon one of them. Having finished the examination of the north branch of Red river, we propose turning to the south from this point, and, crossing the elevated prairie of the Staked Plain, shall en- deavor to reach the middle or Salt Fork, which we passed upon our left near the upper extremity of the Witchita range of mountains. The only apprehension that we entertain is, that we may suffer for water, but shall keep our water-easks filled whenever it 1s practicable. The grass upon the Staked Plain is generally a very short variety of mezquite, called buffalo grass, from one to two inches in length, and gives the plains the appearance of an interminable meadow that has been recently mown very close to the earth. I have never travelled over a route on the plains west of the Cross Timbers where the water, grass, and wood were as good and abundant as upon the one over which our explorations have led us. ‘This has been to us a most agreeable surprise, as our friends, the Witchitas, had given us to understand that we should find no wood, and nothing but salt water, in this section of country. I can account for their misrepre- sentations only on the ground that they did not wish us to go into the country, and took this course to deter us from proceeding further. June 20.—We made an early march this morning, passing over the high hills bordering the river, and the broad swells of prairie adjoining, for twelve miles, when we reached the valley of a very beautiful stream, twenty feet wide, and six inches deep, running rapidly over a gravelly bed, through a valley about a mile wide, of sandy soil, with large cotton- wood trees along the banks. I have called this “McClellan’s creek,” in compliment to my friend Captain McClellan, who I believe to be the first white man that ever set eyes upon it. We were happy, on arriving here, to find the water perfectly pure and palatable ; and we regard ourselves as most singularly fortunate in having favorable weather. The rains of the last two days have made the atmosphere delightfully cool, and afford us water in many places where we had no reason to expect it at this season of the year. a MIRAGE. 41 During the middle of the day, when the earth and the adjacent strata of air had become heated by the almost vertical rays of the sun, we observed, as usual, upon the “Llano estacado,” an incessant tremulous motion in the lower strata of the atmosphere, accompanied by a most singular and illusive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly de- luded the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many other places, is here seen in perfection. The very extraordinary refraction of the atmosphere upon these eleva- ted plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be distorted into the most wild and fantastic forms, and often exaggerated to many times their true size. A raven, for instance, would present the appearance of a man walking erect; and an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo. In passing along over this thirsty and extended plain in a warm day, the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appearance of a beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly upon the opposite bank. His heart beats with joy at the prospect of speedily luxuriating in the cool and delicious element before him, and he urges his horse forward, thinking it very strange that he does not reach the oasis, At one time he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness ; then again _ he fancies that the object recedes before him, and he becomes discouraged and disheartened. And thus he rides for miles and miles, and still finds himself no nearer the goal than when he first saw it—when, perhaps, some sudden change in the atmosphere would dissipate the illusion, and discloses to him the fact that he had been following a mirage. June 21.—On leaving our camp of last night, we crossed the creek and continued a south course for about five miles, when we rose upon the crest of a very elevated ridge which divides the ‘waters of the north from those of the middle or Salt Fork, the valleys of both of which can be seen from this position. Descending upon the south side of the ridge, we encamped upon an affluent of the south fork, which runs rapidly through a narrow valley in an easterly course. The water is abundant, and free from salts. The geological formation upon this side of the dividing ridge is differ- ent from that upon the north side, being here a soft, coarse, friable, con- glomerated sandstone, enclosing asmall drift of quartz, felspar, mica, and serpentine. The country in this vicinity is much broken and cut up with deep gorges and abrupt ridges, which are mostly impassable for wagons, and we have been obliged in censequence to travel a very cir- cuitous route to-day, keeping the dividing ridges as much as possible, where we invariably find good ground for a road. 42 DISTRIBUTION OF RAIN. e June 22.—In our course this morning, we struck one of the principal branches of the Salt Fork near its source, and followed it down upon the left bank to its confluence with the main stream. Below the junc- tion the stream was fifty yards wide, but only about one-fourth of its bed covered with water. This branch of Red river, like the other, heads in the border of the “Llano estacado,” and directly at the source is an elevated hill with abrupt vertical sides, terminating in a level summit; below this, upon the south bank, are two round mounds that can be seen for many miles. We were much gratified in finding the water at the head of this branch, as in the north fork, sweet and wholesome. ‘This settles the question that these branches of the river do not take their rise in salt plains, as has heretofore been very generally supposed. On the contrary, at their sources, which are in the eastern borders of the “Llano estacado,” the water is as pure and wholesome as can be desired. And this charac- ter continues upon all the confluents until they enter the gypsum forma- tion, when they become impregnated with salts, that impart a new char- acter to the water, which continues to its junction with the Mississippi. A solitary cotton-wood, with an occasional clump of willows, constitute the sylva, of this portion of the river. The soil in the valley is an arenaceous red alluvium, and would be productive with the aid of arti- ficial irrigation. The bluffs bordering the valley are, at this place, about one hundred feet high, and composed of a deep red clay, overlaid with a stratum of drift ; and this surmounted with a capping of calcareous sandstone from five to fifteen feet thick. Upon the rocky bluffs bordering the river we found silicified wood in great quantities, strewed about over a distance of two miles. The petri- faction was most perfect, exhibiting all the fibres, knots, and bark, as plainly as in the native state, and was quite similar to the cotton-wood. ’ This evening we have another rain coming from the northwest, which will increase our chances for finding water in advance. As it will be seen by a reference to the meteorological tables, our barometer has, in almost every instance, been a certain index to the weather from the commencement of the march. Sometimes, indeed, it has exhibited a most extraordinary depression of the mercury for two or three days previous to a storm; but in no instance has it failed to rain before the instrument would resume its usual range. During the last three summers which I have spent upon the plains, as has been before observed, I have seen no rain of consequence from about the middle of May to the middle of August. And after passing » KIOWAY INDIANS. 43 west beyond the ninety-ninth degree of longitude, there has been but very little dew during the same period. The water in most of the streams was, at the same time, absorbed by the parched and porous soil over which it passed, and vegetation suffered much from the drought. On the contrary, we have this season been favored with frequent and copious rains, and heavy dews. The streams have everywhere furnished a plentiful supply of good water, and the whole face of the prairies has been cheered with a rich and verdant vegetation. Near the place where we have pitched our tents this evening is an old Indian encampment, where John Bushman, our Delaware interpreter, has discovered that a battle has been fought within the past two months. The evidences of this are apparent from the fact that the remains of a large fire were found, upon which the victorious party had piled up and burned the lodges and effects of the vanquished. Pieces of the lodge-poles, and a quantity of fused glass beads, with small pieces of iron and other articles pertaining to their domestic economy, which had partially escaped the conflagration, were found scattered about the eneampment. The number of lodge-fires indicated that the vanquished party was small, — The trail of a large party of Kioways, travelling to the north just before the last rain, has been seen to-day; and we are continually meeting with evidences of their having frequently resorted to this branch of the river. Their old camping-places and their trails are seen almost every day. They are probably at this time north of the Cana- dian, with the buffaloes; but are attracted to the waters of Red river in the autumn and winter, where the exuberant and rich grama grasses which everywhere abound in the river bottoms afford the finest pastur- age to their numerous animals. We have been gradually and regularly ascending i in our progress westward, until now our approximate elevation above the sea, as indi- cated by the barometer, is two thousand seven hundred and two feet. Our route to-day along the river valley has been populous with prairie dogs, their towns occupying almost the entire valley of the river. I was anxious to obtain a good specimen, and killed several of the largest I could find; but my rifle-ball mutilated them so much, that we did not think them worth preserving. _ Our hunters brought in two deer and a turkey this evening, and their auxiliaries, the greyhounds, have added another deer to the list. June 23.—This morning being dark, cloudy, and threatening rain, we did not leave camp until a late hour, when we continued our march down the left bank of the river for some four or five miles, directly at 44 HEALTH OF THE ANIMALS, the base of the lofty escarpments of red clay and sandstone which ter- minate the valley upon the north side. Soon after we started it commenced raining violently, and has con- tinued incessantly throughout the day. It has raised the water in the river about twelve inches, so that now the entire bed is covered. In consequence of the rain we made an early encampment upon the south bank of the river. : The country upon each side of the river along where we have passed to-day has been much broken up into deep gorges and precipitous ridges, which are wholly impassable for wagons; and the features of the country adjoining have assumed a desert character. With the exception of a narrow strip of land forming the river bottom, no arable soil can be seen, and no timber is found except a few stunted cotton- woods directly upon the river-banks. Several varieties of the wild sensi- tive plant, and especially the Schrankia angustata, are found everywhere throughout this section, and the atmosphere is redolent with the de- lightful perfume which is emitted from their blossoms. Having traced this branch of the river to its source, and satisfied my- self, from the portion that we have passed over, as to its general physi- cal and topographical features, I have resolved to leave it at this point, and taking a southerly course, shall endeavor to make our way to the south branch of the river. I think the remainder of the time we have at our disposal can be more profitably occupied in exploring the coun- try along the borders of that stream than in any other way. We shall set out with a supply of water and wood sufficient for three days; and we hope, before that time expires to find ourselves upon the waters of the south branch. Our animals that were poor when we left the settlements, are at this time in most excellent condition; and if we continue to find water and grass as abundant as we have done, we shall take them home in much better plight than they were at the com- mencement of our journey. Thus far we have been most singularly fortunate in not losing even an animal by death or straying away ; and, indeed, we have been much favored in every respect. The command have generally been in fine health and spirits, and with the exception of two cases of scurvy that originated before our departure from Fort Belknap, we have had no sickness worth mentioning. June 24.—We were in motion at a very early hour this morning, and taking a southerly course directly at right angles to the river, we soon became involved in a labyrinth of barren sandhills, in which we travelled some fourteen miles before we emerged upon a high ridge, STAKED PLAIN. 45 from which, in the distance, we could discern through the dim and murky atmosphere a very broad valley, through which we supposed the south branch to flow. The bare and hot sand over which we had just passed was in strong contrast with the refreshing verdure of the valley before us. After travelling a few miles down the south slope of the divide, we encamped upon a small branch, where we found good water and grass, with a few cotton-wood trees, which furnished us with fuel. The geological formation upon the bluffs bordering this stream is a friable red sandstone, overlaid with a stratum of coarse gypsum, with a subjacent stratum of bright red clay, interstratified with seams of gyp- sum. The soil since we left the sand-hills has been good, probably owing to the fertilizing properties of the gypsum. June 25.—The atmosphere this morning was clear, cool, and bracing, with a north-northeasterly wind ; the thermometer at 3 a. m. standing at 69°. The sky at sunrise was cloudless, and the sun shone brilliantly upon some elevated white bluffs which we could see in the distance, and supposed to be upon the border of the valley of the south fork of Red river. . At an early hour we resumed our march down the creek for about three miles, when we crossed another large stream with clear running water, and taking a circuitous course among the rough and broken hills bordering it, we made fifteen miles, encamping upon a branch where we found water standing in pools. Our course to-day has led us through a formation of sulphate and carbonate of lime, which in some places appeared to be decomposed and covered the earth in a powdered state to the depth of three inches. Several fossil shells belonging to the cretaceous system were found to- day: they were much rounded by attrition, and probably have been transported here from a distance by water. June 26.—We were in motion at the usual time this morning, and turning our course up the river over a very broken and elevated: country, travelled ten miles, when we encamped upon a large branch of the south fork which enters from the north. It is fifty yards wide, with a sandy bed, and at this time contains but little water. The white es- carpment of the Staked Plain has been in sight for the last two days in front and on the right of us. It seems to be very much elevated above the adjoining country, with almost vertical sides, covered with a scrubby growth of dwarf cedars, and from the summit the country spreads out into a perfectly level plain, or mesa, as far as the eye can penetrate. 46 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS. The stream upon which we are encamped, like the other branches of Red river, takes its rise in the borders of this plain, and for several miles from its source there are numerous branches issuing from deep canons, with perpendicular sides, which continue until they debouch into the more rolling country below, where the banks become low, and the bed broad and sandy. The geological features of the country upon the head of this branch are characterized by a different formation from that upon the other branches we have seen, inasmuch as we here find the gypsum extending to the very sources, and the water having the peculiar taste imparted by that mineral throughout its entire course. Our road during the whole day has passed through a continuous dog- town, (Spermophilus ludovicianus,) and we were often obliged to turn out of our course to avoid the little mounds around their burrows. In passing along through these villages the little animals are seen in countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of their domicils, pre- senting much the appearance of stumps of small trees; and so inces- sant is the clatter of their barking, that it requires but little effort of the imagination to fancy oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city. The immense number of animals in some of these towns, or warrens, may be conjectured from the large space which they sometimes cover. The one at this place is about twenty-five miles in the direction through which we have passed it. Supposing its dimensions in other directions to be the same, it would embrace an area of six hundred and twenty-five square miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres. Estimating the holes to be at the usual distances of about twenty yards apart, and each burrow occupied by a family of four or five dogs, I fancy that the ageregate population would be greater than any other city in the universe, é This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mammalia of our country, which is found assembled in such vast communities, is indigenous to the most of our far western prairies, from Mexico to the northern limits of the United States, and has often been described by travellers who have been upon the plains. But as there are some facts in relation to their habits which I have never seen mentioned in any published account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a few re- marks to what has already been said. In the selection of a site or posi- tion for their towns they appear to have a regard to their food, which ts a species of short wiry grass, growing upon the elevated plains, where there is often no water near. J have sometimes seen their towns upon ASSOCIATES OF THE PRAIRIE-DOGS. 47 the elevated table-lands of New Mexico, where there was no water upon the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where it did not seem probable that it could be obtained by excavating to the depth of a hun- dred feet. This has induced me to believe that they do not require that element without which most other animals perish in a short time. As there are generally no rains or dews during the summer months upon the plains where these towns are found, and as the animals never wander far from home, I think I am warranted in coming to the con- clusion that they require no water beyond that which the grass affords them. That they hybernate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid state is evident, from the fact that they lay up no sustenance for the winter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the autumn, the earth freezes hard, and renders it utterly impossible for them to procure food in the usual manner. When the prairie-dog first feels the approach of the sleeping season, (generally about the last days of October,) he closes all the passages to his dormitory to exclude the cold air, and betakes himself to his brumal slumber with the greatest possible care. He remains housed until the warm days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his door, and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever. I have been informed by the Indians, that a short time before a cold storm in the autumn, all the prairie dogs may be seen industriously occupied with weeds and earth closing the entrances to their burrows. They are sometimes, however, seen reopening them while the weather is still cold and stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to follow. It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quadrupeds when to expect good or bad weather, and to make their arrangements ac- cordingly. A species of small owl is always found in the dog towns, sitting at the mouths of the holes when not occupied by the dogs; whether for the purpose of procuring food, or for some other object, I do not know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, burrow with the dogs; and when approached, instead of entering the holes, they invariably fly away. It has also been said that the rattlesnake is a constant companion of the dog; but this is a mistake, for I have some- times passed for days through the towns without seeing one. They are, however, often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it has been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with the pro- prietors of the establishments; but we have satisfied ourselves that this is a domestic arrangement entirely at variance with the wishes of the 48 RATTLESNAKES. dogs, as the snakes prey upon them, and must be considered as in- truders. They are probably attracted to the burrows for the purpose of procuring food, as one snake which we killed was found to have swal- lowed a full-grown dog. , KE-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 49 CHAPTER VI. ARRIVE AT MAIN SOUTH FORK—-PANTHER KILLED—BITTER WATER—INTENSE THIRST—HEAD SPRING—BEARS ABUNDANT=—DEPARTURE DOWN THE RIVER. June 2'7.—Making an early start this morning, we travelled down the river for five miles, when we crossed and resumed the south course over high rolling lands, much broken up on each side into numerous deep defiles and rugged cliffs, running towards the main river. Directly in front of us lay the high table-lands of the “Llano estacado,” towering up some eight hundred feet above the surrounding country, and bordered by precipitous escarpments capped with a stratum of white gypsum, which glistened in the sun like burnished silver. After trav- elling fourteen miles, we reached the valley of the principal branch of the river. Tt was here nine hundred yards wide, flowing over a very sandy bed, with but little water in the channel, and is fortified upon each side by rugged hills and deep gullies, over which I think it will be impossible to take our train. The soil throughout this section is a light ferruginous clay, with no timber except a few hackberry and cotton-wood trees upon the banks of the streams. There is but little water either in the river or in the ereeks, and in a dry season I doubt if there would be any found here. Our route to-day has continued to lead us through dog towns, and it is probable that the fact of their being so abundant here has suggested the name which the Comanches have applied to this branch of Red river, of “ Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no,” or “ Prairie-dog-town river.” We were so unfortunate yesterday as to lose an excellent bear-dog which a gentleman in Arkansas had taken great pains to procure for me. I regret this very much, as we are now coming into a country where we shall probably find these animals abundant, and it is difficult to hunt them without a good dog, trained for the purpose. Our hunters killed two antelopes to-day. We have seen but few deer, however, and no turkeys, during the last week. We occasionally see the pinnated grouse and the quail; as also the meadow-lark, which I have found in all places wherever I have travelled. June 28.—On leaving our encampment of last night, we took a southwesterly course for the eastern extremity of the white-capped bluffs 50 PANTHER KILLED. which have been so long in sight, and which border the great plain of the “ Llano estacado” upon the river valley. After marching eight miles over a succession of very rugged hills and valleys, which rise as they recede from the river, we reached the base of these towering and majestic cliffs, which rise almost perpendicularly from the undulating swells of prairie at the base, to the height of eight hundred feet, and terminate at the summit in a plateau almost as level as the sea, which spreads out to the south and west like the steppes of Central Asia, in an apparently illimitable desert. I supposed, from the appearance of the country at a distance, that I should be able to find a passage for the wagons along at the foot of these cliffs; but, upon a closer examination, find the ground between them and the river so much cut up by abrupt ridges and deep glens, that it is wholly impracticable to take our train any further up this branch of the river. We have sought for a passage by which we might take the trains to the top of the bluffs, where, as they run nearly par- allel to the course of the river, we might have continued on with the wagons; but, after making a careful examination, we have abandoned the idea, not being able to discover a place where we could even take our horses up the steep sides of the precipice. The geological formation of these bluffs is a red indurated clay, rest- ing upon a red sandstone, overlaid with a soft, dark-gray sandstone, and the whole capped with a white calcareous sandstone, the strata resting horizontally, and receding in terraces from the base to the summit. As Capt. McClellan and myself were passing to-day along under the bluffs, we saw in advance of usa herd of antelopes quietly feeding among some mezquite trees, when the idea occurred to me of attempt- ing to call them with a deer-bleat, which one of the Delawares had made forme. I accordingly advanced several hundred yards to near the crest of a hill, from which I had a fair view of the animals, and, very deliberately seating myself upon the ground, screened from their observations by the tall grass around me, I took out my bleat and com- menced exercising my powers in imitating the cry of the fawn. I soon succeeded in attracting their attention, and in a short time decoyed one of the unsuspicious animals within range of my rifle, which I raised to my shoulder, and, taking deliberate aim, was in the act of pulling trigger, when my attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly drawn aside by a rustling which I heard in the grass to my left. Casting my eyes in that direction, to my no small astonishment, I saw a tremendous panther bounding at full speed directly towards me, and within the short distance of twenty steps. As may be imagined, I immediately GYPSUM GROTTO. 51 abandoned the antelope, and, directing my rifle at the panther, sent a ball through his chest, which stretched him out upon the grass about ten yards from where I had taken my position. Impressed with the belief that I had accomplished a feat of rather more than ordinary importance in the sporting line, I placed my hand to my mouth, (“ala savage,”) and gave several as loud shouts of exultation as my weak lungs would permit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to my feelings of triumph upon the occasion, and also to call the Captain, whom I had left some distance back with the horses. As he did not hear me I went back for him, and on returning to the spot where I had fired upon the panther, we discovered him upon his feet making off. The Captain gave him another shot as he was running, and then closed in with his rifle clubbed, and it required several vigorous blows, Jaid on in quick succession, to give him his quietus. The panther had probably heard the bleat, and was coming towards it with the pleasant anticipation of making his breakfast from a tender - fawn; but, fortunately for me, I dieasspotnted him. It occurred to me afterwards that it would not always be consistent with one’s safety to use the deer-bleat in this wild country, unless we were perfectly certain we should have our wits about us in the event of a panther or large bear (which is often the case) taking it into his head to give credence to the counterfeit. This was a large specimen of the Felis concolor, or North American cougar, measuring eight feet from his nose to the end of the tail. June 29.—As we were unable to proceed further up this branch of the river with the wagons, I concluded to leave the main body of the command under charge of Lieut. Updegraff, and, with Capt. McClellan and a small escort of ten men, to push on and endeavor to reach the head spring of this the principal branch of Red river. Taking provisions for six days, packed upon mules, we went forward this morning over a constant succession of steep, rocky ridges, and deep ravines, in one of which we discovered a grotto in the gypsum rocks, which appeared to have been worn out by the continued action of water, leaving an arched passway, the sides of which were perfectly smooth and symmetrical, and composed of strata of three distinct bright colors of green, pink, and white, arranged in such peculiar order as to give it an appearance of singular beauty. On our arrival here the men were much exhausted by rapid marching over the rough ground, and were exceedingly thirsty. Fortunately we found near the mouth of the grotto a spring of very cold water bursting out of the rock; and although it had the peculiar taste of the gypsum, yet they 52 SUFFERING FROM THIRST. drank large quantities without suffering from it.* Our animals and men being much jaded from travelling over this rough and forbidding country, we turned down towards the river after a short halt at the grotto, and on reaching it found the water still very bitter and un- palatable. As the day was very warm, (the thermometer standing, at 12 o'clock m., at 104° Farenheit in the shade) with no air stirring, the reflection of the sun’s rays from the white sand in the bed of the river made it exceedingly oppressive. At sundown we bivouacked near a small pool of muddy water, a little better than that in the river, but still very unpalatable. In despite of this, as we were suffering much from the intense thirst caused by the heat of the day, and from drinking the nauseating water we had met with upon the march, we indulged freely ; but instead ot allaying thirst it only served to increase it. The country over which we have passed to-day, upon both sides of the river, has been cut up by numerous deep gorges extending from the chain of mural escarpments that terminate the “ Llano estacado” to the river, and in many of these are small streams of water which issue from springs in the rocky sides of the gorges. We have met with no * As this spring issued directly from the pure gypsum rock, I procured a speci- men of the water, which has been analyzed under the direction of Professor W. S. Clarke, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and may, I think, be regarded as containing those ingredients which communicate that peculiar disagreeable taste to all the water in this country that flows over a gypsum formation. The analy- sis resulted as follows: Watery in iuid) OUNCES: sassoo ssewice sm cimccleae a) scicisinicines oes le sie 4, Wiateram tuidwonammes jose clclsnn coos enon ssein\ereineles seer semarcarts 127. 500 Hydrosulphuric acid ‘present. ....------ 2-2-2. 2222- -oon-. ea ne O11 (Ghiwatee) S8b5 Gada aaboaclcos bos Geceho Sdapobo des cdoScoo mone hosees 5 . 014 TAG) BoE S6 Sood Bede BeDo eu Obne HOO OSeEre SIC oe so ehsie ry ‘dg “UL ST em tp seeoeuy ‘d 08°01 “eee eUe OF TT te seeeoour eg urd 086 eeour ‘doe'9 ee "UL dz tseeeveeoour ay sees seen ug ** urd 0E'G vectors Unie) "urd ogg "ul ‘d 08'S -eeUT BIT “ul © even: eeoony ‘do eecerrn "ul ‘d "ud eeeeorny p eoece ur ‘d 9e'6 eeee cece ony ‘dz OR LOrAMRNWEr A eve 0 tu 'd 0g" IANA AOD 02 CO St Ang 126 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS oa *od “Map ON “Vy stu dy) SuLMp puIMm Suoys {spnoyo snqnumo pue snquiryy (‘1YST WINYWOU) “Ay UT voURIead -dev snouruiny[ £*AA 'S 84} Ul SUTUIYSI] fspnoyo snquitny ‘spno[o snynumng ‘JSoMYIIOU BY} UL Sphoig ‘ure Jo sdoip Moy ®@ §'N UT SUIUIYST pue Japuny) fspnojo snquirn “Mo3p ON *spnola SNqUITU fu ‘Be OT 0} ‘WI ‘ec MIO Apno[9 ‘SUNeOL SPNO[D Maj BS Map ON "MOD ON *sloajoul AUBU £ YIAOU 94} Ul Summysy § Mop ON “MOP ON "Map ON *MoaP ON “SyIVULOY, teeeeeeegpeees sees eeeegprees shee eeregnetes tee eeeeoperes “0p: op: seesoperes SOOOOOUcE TT fay ‘eee eeeegperes seesopeees ** Apno[g serps seesgpeees tree seeegperes seseoperss “op: sessop: sessOp: seesoprtes te eeseecoperes tee eeeeeopeees teeeoperes “op: op: “op: seesoperes seecopeees “op: +e sop- seeeopeees SOOOREROES 21) 9) *TOIEO AA we ooooe “su01g se qSIT Aa A. 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LAN 127 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. ‘og *spnojo sn[uuing ‘map AavoyyT "Mop ON ‘Map ISIS “qsomMyOu {Mop OU fspnojo sninuIng ‘spnojo snjnuing *JSVATINOS VY} Ul JapuNny § spnojo snyNuNs pue snquUiiAy 0d “Spniglo snjnuing ‘ued Apoayzad jsouye ¢ Asap 1ysIIS *S10910UL §spnoyo § MID ONL *spno[o snjnuing *Ajoyer -apour paurer ‘we ‘d ¢] 03 FBT Wo ! spnojo snjaung “sphojo snjnuing “MOP IGS “Map ON "SOM OY} UL Sphojo snjeys ul souereadde snouruiny od ‘spno]o snjeig “Noy suo INoge 10} pouter Sspnojo snqwiny “AYSYS Sururer £ spnoyo snquin *JSOMA pue You oy} ut sulujysy $spnojo snquitu § mep ON ‘spnojo sn[nuing “Map ON “MOD ON "MA ‘'N Aq ‘N UOZHOY ay} UI spnopo 14st] “IvII1O *Ieafo seeeeecipaia & Pees eeesopers tees eeesoperss SOOUEOREDN ry fay reajo “eal steer eerpaig dlor|e' DODOOES (21) ayn sees ** ajo = a xe ** Ivayo ¢- T soph teeeeeeapaqo 2 theese eepaig "'8° (Bald C-F sete eneegn ert tees eipara ieeyo Heeeeeerpayo rete eresgyes elated Pees teeegpeeee SOO OORT ey on tree re eegpeees sere eeeegperes fete eeecopeee: teen sees gperes teeesop: tee ee erpaIg ee "op nie oe aTeIapoyl seeesereopetee|teeeecees tereseesgpeses sesopetes SOOO COON EAL *** 971 RI10POTAL tree eteegperees Petes eeeoperer C900 0000R ir FLIAT rete eeergneres teteeeeegpes « ‘ss squs[ Ald A, seen TED vee eIIPOTAL sece qySrT G000.00007%) 70000 SOOO 10 :7a) tee “qusrT “aJeIOpOyy seee lieitag seeeee FONG OOOO DROON TIA 2000 000 (44)9000 * a] R12POTW bese eeeegpetes soprets thee eeesopires . einieieless TT SLOT, +9 91R1aD0 IAL eT SIT Ala A “a1VIIpoW ue UST Alo A oe “qySrT ARAA NAA as) Zz ° . ° “a” ee “0 Be eesetsoess Be NUD Pdeeecie GUAZAaS2e 220 . . Pee eeecopetes|eseeceeegnertsleeeeneeeeens Pete eeeeopress sesso} 1a poy ys iy DNRANNNWNNNANNN W rece eeeeoprerelsevereeegperre [seen eecesens GL8°8G 66°86 GCG °8G GL6°8G GL°86 EL°86 GGL 8G 8°86 68°86 8°86 SEB 8G 8°86 18°86 CGB 8G C66 8G C886 GL8°8G GL8°86 G6°86 00°66 G6 8G G66 86 €6° 86 GL6°86 G66 GG" 6G GB 8G 666° 86 [06° 8G 88°86 G96" 86 00°66 98°86 £8386 GL8°86 6°86 S166 96°86 GGL°8G PL°8G L8G STL°86 OOO | if ‘d og'L DENOUOOED | 6 ¢ ‘de oocece oT ‘de sees eOT Be TT ttre seeeourae “urd g ur -d 9g" “ul ‘d 7% see eo eeu sR TT SOD ORCOOOnE acl CRDOMBO CONTE L(G ‘urd 9g “urd ¢ UL eT sere eeerur BR OT seeeeerT p 0f°T GOOOOEE 057 ‘d 0&°6 ceeeoony ‘d 0g°L BORO OOOO 5); ‘dP sees sere pe II te eceeees YT Be DOOD 5 5 ( ‘d 08° OT oul ‘doe’, DON i 5 ‘dp oe “TE ST pees vecony 2 OL SOOO OOOO fifo) (0) soos eeur-e Og'P seco cny ‘d 0&°6 * eel ‘dog's se cseeny ‘de See meena; sue csDonn JE oe ceeeny ‘d 08°6 OUOTIOSS 55 ¢ ‘d Oe" 2 OS 50 § ‘d 0°? oes “ul *8 TI oo OTR GTEE eeeee seony ‘d6 oe eur “d 0g'2 eee socuy “d Ch'P 128 APPENDIX A.—METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. "Mop $SPNoO[o snyens pue snquII_T F°°?****ARalo F ("tes oper*® *sphojo sniVg 0d *sphojo snjnuing iva *spnoj[o SNQWIN, “SULUIOUL OU} UL Area pue JYStu oy} sulMp prey paures § spnojo suqwiny 0d *spnoyo SNqUITAy ‘urd [ 0} ‘ur ‘d Fey wor poures { spnoyo snquitay ‘mop Aavay sspnola snyeigg “Mop ou Sspno[pD *‘spnoyo snjnumo pur snqeug ‘(NOs oY} Wor dn aud f*ur ey, 02 "UL ‘e f¢ wor prey Ajoyetapoul poures Sspnojo snjuwng ‘YNnos SULUIY ST] puv rapuny) {spnojo snquuu £ you UL spnojo snjnUNd pue snyeijs £ Mop AAvay ATaiV1VpOTAL “Mop ON. *‘spnoyjo sninuma *spnhojo snjnuino pue snje1g ‘Mop AAvoyT “AKOp IYSIT ‘map AAvoTT ‘mop Aavay Ala A “Mop USS *SyIeUOy seeeeeeeoneres “* "1839 01-6 eeeese *Iealo = ‘reao + teeeeeeeoprets seeeeeehpnolo sreherererenneo TOL pisioiexeloreiel() [acer seeeeeKDnOlO Opds Cuan Gy jIOGA BOOURIER 1:12) fe 2 ‘eal *1e9] *Ieayo *realo ‘areayo “opt: D Ala Cite) hata bo DONDE ONY sacaoSouaeTey COcERTET ED GIES ogeeOS Ses "+ *s1B9]9 01-6 Peapeere SHOOSEGLON TEI) *‘IOyICOM, 99 et SOCOGOCOOL Yt fr] ta & 39 GL veee ee oUTEO) oe a seeeeesSuong oa 96 88 16 PROM GY NOE eeescoe Ik 25), ++ «91019 POTHl ‘ 9 ah veeeee eaTTEg é Ba ae seeeastT AIO A eeecoooe GL Spb eorerepa oes e ar BEUCHECCH 29 L9 eee (7e) 89 GL beseeseeoperseleseees 5 i +ssegqerapopy [etteet ae 18 bese eee emmeg ae 69 89 T6L pe TL SL seeeeessoperes ma 6 ee °**97010 poly eee MA "g "g 229 Gg ONDA BOO OT THAT eeeeos cisreheis ey 99 IL yet AIa A. cheieleiwiexensirisiele OL SD, a ec} Oa | sheipiere exexeiaiare yt €L 08 wlcODE ‘Ss 6L £8 sees eseegperes ‘S cs 506 ***aqvIa po Kl ‘Ss 18 98 seeeseegperes 5 99 a Fe eeeeemTEg 3 eh 08 BOND OSOM NT ELET ‘S 6L. Th ***97B19POTA] ‘Ss 68 86 . nieleleiei/Q Duguee WL LO SG), see egu sty S10 A, wl 189 CL *AYSUOUT ‘uoroalg |*peyovjed | ‘payoriyy “(NIAAA *MALANOWUIHL ‘penuntoo—SNOILVAUESAO TVOINOTOXUOU LAN €6°86 G6°86 GL6 “8G GLO’ 6G €1°6G 10°66 €0°6¢ 60°66 GC0°66 GLO" 6G GG0' 66 10°66 GL 6G GGL 66 00°66 660" 66 CG0° 66 90°66 CLO" 66 CL6° 86 00°66 00°66 G0°6G L0°6G 80°66 98°86 SEB" 8G C886 [6°86 18°86 GLB°86 i *19JIULOIe | AOE OOF 3 “ut “d 0g" OT eeneoeny ‘does ste eeeeesour eT eee eee BOT seeeeeur BOE 'L eeeeoory py 0e's . seseur dd OF eeccoony ‘d 0€'P eeeseeyy ‘d 08'T eecooeny "BOLT eeceoony ‘d0g'6 oeeeorny ‘de SSOOSOCOGn tracts veecvony ‘dog's peeooouy ‘d 086 seeeerur cd gee "Ul SL COOTER Ce oe eeur ‘d OT **ul'd 0f°L eeeeoony ‘dog's ee cece eeety ‘de siale OU. Ti OOOO § Ror) UL ‘dosh eee eur ‘dg DOODOOO TEA secooour ae 02°S seeosooour ed OL *InO]] ‘ared 129 APPENDIX A.—-METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. ‘spnojo snjens pue snjnuiny |**°*** *aeajo = “UL GT 38 UlelIYSIS {spnojo snjnung ‘mop Aaeazy *‘UIO}10q 9Y} UI Soy asuap $ Map ISG |sste°"* "op'°s* ‘utd fg 0) ¢ Woy pourer ¢spnoja snfnumng |:+***> *soprrs: ‘ul ‘d $] 03 [ Wor pue “ur 2 E11 01 TOT Woy “ute g 01 $9 WoJy pourel §spno[g *Spno[a snyeqs pue snquityy seeees crpara = tree seeegnerss ‘ud g 0} $¢ wo pue “ur ‘dT : 0} TIT Wor “ur eG 07 Fg Woy poured ¢spnojo snquityy |'* *eeesApDNOIO ‘Map OU fspnoja snyeg |*******1egfo # "SPNO[O SNIVAIG |rtsse**+opeess a veeeeorlpala € BODOIOOOD 1) .uuuu! OOOUUnUonE *° aS ecereeeccees DOK) od) ODOC EOC nOogn RA nmn seceseeoneses RL i fs} ta § Sveeecvesene 'UeO, DOCU ROS TEs sere eeeonUSiT spain sisyeleieley rise Pe eeeeesop teelecerces sane, RW WD Coon ty@) seneseeegperee|esereesenacecy DEOUDO OUND «| 0&6" 66 OF" 66 006 °66 006° 66 OIG’ 6G SCG" 66 16°86 16°86 [6°86 98°86 6686 £6°86 10°66 Se ececeeeeny ‘dp DODDODOOG tT i dz pee cece ony ‘OP DOOUIORIOUT i fg ‘d OT seceveee wi dg eeeeeenyT sp 08°S coccsony od 08°6 secon ‘doe'9 eeeoony ad 0f°T LG LG LG 96 96 96 96 GG Ge GG FG ¥G vG 130 Table of courses and distances on the route of Captain Marcy’s dition to the sources of Red river. 12 38 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 YuNeA ABAAAAAe AAAs An > $323.04 275 NOS c eee 205 eecoee eeccos cone eaysessss Age2ssaArsrurssacs 6 4 = ec oee wAerewavads 2BzeL Paz) a APPENDIX B. eorecoee Number of revolu- tions of odometer. eccces cose cece ccceee ececeeocee .| Distance in statute miles. ece}vececoe voce 142 209 852 00 295 APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES. eaxpe- Remarks. Total distance travelled, 6,247 revolutions = 16 miles 5 yards. Total distance travelled, 2,292 revolutions = 5 miles 1,524 yards. Total distance travelled, 1,567 revolutions = 4 mules 11 yards. Total distance travelled, 4,664 revolutions = 11 miles 92. Total distance travelled, 434 revo- lutions = 1 mile 115. Total distance travelled, 5,625 revolutions = 14 miles 228, Total distance travelled, 4,341 revolutions = 11 miles 172. Total distance travelled, 5,684 revolutions = 14 miles 34. Halted in Camp No. 4, on Sink creek. Tota) distance travelled, 4 miles 405. Total distance travelled, 3 miles Total distance travelled, 24 miles 168. Total distance travelled, 852. Total distance travelled, 1 mile 295. fag aS APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES. 131 NARA « Date. 3l June 1 10 i Number of camp. Arrival. 10 rt 12 13 14 15 16 iv 18 19 20 21 22 23 g4ggzzzz2422evdessasueneazssasz2z2 2s 42245 No, a a22 2 Zena: : SSSHHSSNE: a a ne 4m. wo i=) ne as 2: ; oblasssass marx 2n2 2 ache Seer ee (<=) 230 nH gssAs2ss2zevvase tions of odometer. Number of revolu- Distance in statute = WLWOWM RNR RP ONUWNCNNHFH HUV EVE RDEV E HV OPDUHEEHEHUVOW SUH OROMSOHOUMHOMS miles. Remarks. Total distance travelled, 6 miles 09153. Total distance travelled, 3,198 revolutions = 8 miles 225359. Total distanee travelled, 3,430 revolutions = 8 miles 820395. Total distance travelled, 2,470 revolutions = 6 miles 6. Total distance travelled, 4,346 revolutions = 11 miles 181. Total distance travelled, 2,945 revolutions = 7 miles 574. Total distance travelled, 5,468 revolutions= 14 miles 054. Total distance travelled, 3,442 revolutions = 8 miles 830. Total distance travelled, 3,498 revolutions = 8 miles 996. . Total distance travelled, 459 rev- olutions = 1 mile 179. Total distance travelled, 3,173 revolutions = 8 miles 16. Total distance travelled, 3,519 revolutions = 9 miles 058, Total distance travelled, 4,127 revolutions = 10 miles 601. | Total distance travelled, 4,243 revolutions = 10 miles 894. 132 APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES. Remarks. miles, Atrival. Distance in statute Number of camp. tions of odometer. Bearing. Number of revolu- & | Date. ~o June 1 = LS) Total distanee travelled, 3,480 revolutions = 8 miles 938. 14 Total distance travelled, 4,390 revolutions = 11 miles 275. Total distance travelled, 4,044 revolutions = 10 miles 387. 15 16 Total distance travelled, 5,851 revolutions = 15 miles 63 5 17 Total distance travelled, 1,132 revolutions = 2 miles 706. Total distance travelled, 4,399 revolutions = 11 miles 310. 21 Total distance travelled, 4,587 revolutions = 11 miles 888. Total distance travelled, 4,889 revolutions = 12 miles 537. Total distance travelled, 1,632 revolutions = 4 miles 192. Total distance travelled, 5,179 revolutions = 13 miles 303. TTA th A bs: Total distance travelled, 5,807 revolutions = 14 miles 916. ararazne Total distance travelled, 3,578 revolutions = 9 miles 2. =f 52am 27 | 36 Total distance travelled, 4,557 revolutions = 11 miles 705. nnnnnd< = Bas Total distance travelled, 3,496" revolutions = 8 miles 98. SUR WNSCWONNNNNNU ANSON WR HORE BRUNRDSCNHHEENNrw-! WWW HH WOWHNWNWUNNVHWHWWWOHWoOS, i) 10 li 2 14 15 Number of camp. Arriyal, GP Ua att te a a S wn APPENDIX B.——-COURSES AND elclotc| wo i=) Z = aii nS Hos Bits (=) AT & i: Zzznzi22neoe zee Saveeee ay! [deaccecoae SOONG ic] Bearing. Number of revolu- tions of odometer, SEPEN ROR NUUNE EE WORE DDE RE UWOE DUH HEE WWE EWU HHEOHONUNUE DUNNE WD RHEE ORHE Wee Distance in statute Iniles. “960 267 935 180 729 TAL 042 014 600 DISTANCES. 133 Remarks. Total distance travelled, 2,693 revolutions = 6 miles 917. Total distdnce travelled, 883 rev- olutions = 2 miles 267. Total distance travelled, 5,099 revolutions = 13 miles 097. Total distance travelled, 6,055 revolutions = 15 miles 653. Total distance travelled, 4,995 revolutions = 12 miles 83. Total distance travelled, 6,208 revolutions — 16 miles 046. Total distance travelled, 6,348 revolutions = 16 miles 418. Total distance travelled, 4,159 revolutions = 10 miles 683. Total distance travelled, 5,357 revolutions = 13 miles 76. : Total distance travelled, 4,316 revolutions = 11 miles 086. Total distance travelled, 5,604 revolutions — 14 miles 4. Total distance travelled, 4,315 revolutions'= 11 miles 084. Total distance travelled, 4,070 revolutions = 10 miles 454. 134 APPENDIX B.—COURSES AND DISTANCES. Date. Number of camp. Arrival. Number of revolu- tions of odometer. Distance in statute miles. fp fe | fe 1852. July 16 17 18 19 20 21 24 27 28 On = 52 53 55 06 57 58 59 60 61 62 10 15 Oo wi: 5: He Bln = Oo. ° . & BbppShe tes BP ie eee eee ec © e Zann waraunmm mes Ns Pe > Ss ~ i) J = 00 CWO RH HEED RHE WUHO MANE RINE OH UDNVUENVUNOHUENNEHEAROOHO oe us oo) Remarks. Total distance travelled, 2,915 revolutions = 7 miles 487. | Total distance travelled, 4,669 revolutions = 11 miles 993. Total distance travelled, 3,231 revolutions = 8 miles 299. Total distance travelled, 2, 482 revolutions = 6 miles 376. Total distance travelled, 3,602 revolutions = 9 miles 25. Total distance travelled, 3,855 revolutions — 9 miles 902. Total distance travelled, 7,074 revolutions — 18 miles 17. Total distance Wravelled, 4,957 revolutions = 12 miles 734. Total distance travelled, 5,906 revolutions = 15 miles 158, Total distance travelled, 3,827 revolutions = 9 miles 887. Total distance travelled, 5,367 revoluticns = 13 miles 803, ° Total distance travelled, 3,736 revolutions = 9 miles 596. APPENDIX C., MINERALOGY. REPORT ON THE MINERALS COLLECTED: BY PROF. CHARLES ‘UPHAM SHEPARD. Amuerst CotteGe, June 1, 1853. My Dear Sir: The following report relates to the specimens collected by Captain Marcy, and which, agreeably to your request, were submitted by me to a chemical and mineralogical examination. Very respectfully and truly yours, CHARLES UPHAM SHEPARD. To President Hircucock. 1. COPPER ORES—MARCYLITE. The most interesting of these was a specimen of rather more than one ounce in weight, from the main or south fork of Red river, near the Witchita mountains. It is a black compact ore, strongly resembling the black oxide of copper from the Lake Superior mines, for which substance I at first mistook it. It was partially coated by a thin layer of the rare and beautiful atacamite, (muriate of copper of Phillips) This is the first instance in which this species has been detected in North America. On subjecting the black ore to a close investigation, it proves to be a substance hitherto undescribed, and it affords me much pleasure to name it, in honor of the very enterprising and successful explorer to whom mineralogy is indebted for the discovery, Marcylite. It is massive and compact; fracture even ; color black; opaque; lustre none ; hardness equals that of calcite, or 3 of the mineralogical scale; sectile streak shining; powder light grayish black; specific gravity, 4.0 to 4.1. In small fragments it melts in the heat of a candle, to the flame of which it imparts a rich blue and green color. This is especially striking when a blow-pipe is employed. The slightest heat of the in- strument suffices for the fusion of the ore. The chloride of copper is volatilized, and spreads over the charcoal support, from which the splen- did green color rises also. On directing the flame of the candle against it, the mass, or assay, remains for some time fluid, continuing to give the color as at first, till finally the green and blue tinge declines, and at 136 APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY. last disappears altogether; after which the globule swells out into large bubbles and suddenly collapses, and this repeatedly for a number of times, (ten or fifteen,) when it seems to be pure copper. In cooling, however, a thin, light steel-gray pellicle forms upon its surface, which separates by a slight blow with the hammer, revealing a globule of pure copper within. This coating, on being fused with borax, gives rise to a colorless glass, with brilliant points of metallic copper adhering to the support of subjacent charcoal: a fragment heated in a small glass tube before the blow-pipe, enters into fusion and evolves much moisture, which contains traces of hydrochloric acid. The powdered mineral is almost wholly dissolved by ammonia, and the black powder which remains is slowly taken up by warm nitric acid, with the separation of traces of silica. Sulphuric acid dissolves the mineral, with the extrica- tion of hydrochloric acid. Analysis gave the following as the composi- tion of the ore: Copper csecesascecececriacse ROOGEE Gabo coSGee Goosen ones 54.30 Oxycentandchloriness-njeeeneeeceecccee sere eieeeaeeae 36.20 Wrateneas mies ceceerancseinsime sets seein nee ee miele mee 9.50 100.00 With traces of silica. The above is undoubtedly a very valuable ore for copper, as it is very rich in metal, and easy of reduction in the furnace. Numerous speci- mens of the same ore, but very impure from an admixture of fine sand, were embraced in the collection, as coming from Copper creek, four miles from Cache creek. They were in the form of flattened, irregular dises, about two inches across and half an inch thick, having their sur- faces coated by malachite (carbonate of copper) in a pulverulent condi- tion. Along with the above, also, were found similarly shaped masses of an impure black oxide of copper, (coated by malachite,) which had the following composition : Copper (with traces of iron).-----..-.---------- 35.30 to 40.00 SIC RAS NAG Sra O eo rests osbns sobe poSEadosnS 30.60 Oxycen and “waters-saus seen sees coe seein cceiae eee 34.10 100.00 It is fusible before the blow-pipe, but does not tinge the flame blue or green. The fused mass bubbles up for a time, and finally yields a globule of copper with a thick crust, which is black, and feebly attracted by, the magnet. A copper ore of the average characters of these flat- tened masses would yield from 33 to 35 per cent. in the large way. APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY. 137 Still another variety of copper ore is ticketed “June 3, Gypsum Bluff.” Tt consists of numerous small fragments of a friable fine-grained white sandstone, much mixed up with a pulverulent malachite, and occasionally presenting specks of black oxide of copper. Taken asa whole, I should judge that it might be a 5 per cent. ore. _ Another variety still of copper ore, some stones, labelled “May 16, first day from Cache creek.” They consist of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which are interspersed black oxide of copper and stains of mala- - chite. Its value for metal would not exceed that of the variety last mentioned. “May 17” refers to a compact grayish white limestone, much mottled with red. It contains druses of calcite, fibres of mesotype, and stains of black oxide of copper. It belongs, like the last, to the trappean family of minerals. 2. MANGANESE ORE. “Copper creek, third day from Cache creek.” An impure ore. When treated with warm hydrochloric acid, it evolves chlorine gas. It contains much silica, and some peroxide of iron, with 15.75 per cent. of water and about 10 per cent. binoxide of manganese. The specimen is ‘ imperfectly foliated, and, in places, is columnar. It is porous, and of a black color, resembling black oxide of copper. It was tested both for copper and cobalt, without detecting either. 3. IRON AND TITANIAN_SANDS. “July 18, Cache creek, foot of cliff” This is a heavy, rather coarse black sand; more than half of which consists of magnetic iron, the remainder being titaniferous iron. It is remarkable for its purity in these two minerals, the most careful search not resulting in the discovery of other minerals mingled with it, if we except a few grains of quartz labradorite and epidote. An ineffectual examination of it was. had for ‘tin and gold. Another specimen, collected July 16, was tested with a similar result. 4, OTHER MINERALS. “May 31.” Labradorite in numerous specimens. Its color is a dark pearl-blue, or gray; it does not fire the iridescent reflexions. From the 138 APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY. size and purity of the masses, it would appear to be a very abundant mineral, even if it does not amouut to a rock, throughout the region of the Witchita mountains. Specimens were collected, bearing the same date, of a red cellular limestone, which may have originated, if we suppose a soft ferruginous clay to have been parted off by meshes, or cell-walls, of calcareous matter, and the clay to have been subsequently washed away, or in some manner mostly removed. “July 15, base of Witchita mountains.” Reddish septaria, or a mixture of peroxide of iron and calcite, traversed by veins of pure cal- cite, surfaces of the masses somewhat botryoidal. A singular variety of cellular quartz, said to have occurred in veins in the Witchita mountains, was carefully examined for gold, but without the detection of a trace of the precious metal, notwithstanding some of the specimens, from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites, looked very promising for gold. 5. SOILS. “Sub-soil, Cache creek, May 14; the same as that found about the Witchita mountains.” The sample had been kneaded by the hand into a ball. Its color was reddish brown; it contained no organic matter. Analysis gave the following result : Silica, (including some fine feldspathic grains). . le wees 82.25 Peroxide of iron.-.-...---- e dulbioiae atanalee Semis amcor 2.65 PANIIT Som Gob S60 Coors HonGoOncoess cousecoEekeacce Ss 0.55 Carbonateofvlimecsecas sabe ss uhicoace cuenta neeclsc se 5.40 Carbonate of magnesia...--.-.-- PAs a cboNaesaaasasuGad 1.70 Water (hygrometric moisture)..---..-------+---------- 9.50 Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash........--.---- traces 98.05 The soil contains no perceptible traces of chlorine, or any other sul- phate besides that of lime. It would appear to have an excellent con- » stitution, as a sub-soil, for the cultivation of the grain crops, as well as for cotton. It is eminently a calcareous soil, and probably has a suffi- . ciency of potash present also; but the quantity of the material did not enable me to determine the proportion of this constituent. “Sub soil, June 3.” This sub-soil is fine grained, and has a clayey appearance. Its color is adeep red. Little fragments of gypsum may be detected scattered through its mass. It has the following rather unusual composition : APPENDIX C.—MINERALOGY. FST CEE Se tar MG ea a aS COO a 79.30 IBELOX1d © OL TLONe ere Somes ee Se eee eae walsseein ae cieeie nine 8.95 WAU Crna ir ea a Oar hai ca oe orci ar aetenere ein lererera 1.50 Carbonate Ou lMere= st errceeeee come ce ce cele eeainta sala eles 1.10 Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and Chloride Of SOGIUMeccices cence see cscs wcee ees c ences 4.65 Wa eliee stew eae cine hence cordoba meu clean cu canencereaee 4.50 139 i} . APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. NOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF ROCKS AND MINERALS COL- LECTED: BY EDWARD HITCHCOCK, PRESIDENT OF AMHERST COLLEGE. Dear Sir: I have done what I could with the specimens you put into my hands from the Redriver; but I must confess, that while these specimens, with the sections and notes by Dr. Shumard and yourself, have disclosed some interesting and valuable substances, I have found it impossible to solve several questions of importance for the want of more specimens, especially fossils, Without these, you are aware, the tertiary and secondary formations cannot be identified with any degree of cer- tainty. Yet the whole number of species sent me does not exceed half a dozen, and several of these are so mutilated that their specific charae- ter cannot be determined. The two most important formations pointed out in your notes, and in the sections, are the gypsum deposite and that of coal; yet from the former there is notin the collection more than one species of fossil, and from the latter no specimen whatever; so that the exact place in the geological scale of these two formations is in a great measure conjectural.* But notwithstanding these deficiencies, we do get from the specimens, and your notes, glimpses of several very valuable facts. The four most important points in your discoveries are gypsum, copper, gold, and coal. Perhaps I cannot bring out my views upon these and other points better than by describing the specimens in the order of your march, except where that was doubled upon itself. Where I can do it, and think it of any service, I shall designate by colors, upon the map of your route which you placed in my hands, the most important deposites. At your starting point, Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, you men- tion a fact of the deepest interest, viz: the occurrence of “large beds of bituminous coal.” Dr, Shumard has given the following section of the strata at this place : * When I wrote the above I was not aware that Dr. Geo. G. Shumard was re- quested to report upon the paleontology of the exploration. When that report appears, probably he, or others, can draw more accurate conclusions upon some points than I have done on APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 141 1. Sub-soil, arenaceous, and of a red color, three to ten feet. 2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating, four feet. 3. Seams of bituminous coal, two to four feet. 4, Fine-grained sandstone, yellowish gray, with fossil ferns; thick- ness variable. 5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone, of unknown thickness. Dr. Shumard says that the fossil ferns in this formation belong to “the carboniferous era.” He also describes the same formation on the third day’s march, some fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap, on one of the sources of Trinity river. He describes sandstone for several subse- quent days, some of it coarse and highly ferruginous, with ripple-marks, which I should suppose might belong to the same coal measures, did he not mention that strata of red loam, so abundant in all that region, lie beneath the sandstone; which could not be, if the coal belongs to the carboniferous period. Yet he mentions that the same formation as that around Fort Belknap is largely developed between Fort Washita and Fort Smith, on Arkansas river. The latter fort is not less than three hundred and fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap. On the 8d of May he describes “large quantities of ironstone strewn over the surface,” another accompaniment of the true coal. Now, at first view it would seem almost certain that we have here a description of a genuine coal formation of the carboniferous period, not less than three hundred and fifty miles long, associated, moreover, with those valuable iron ores which in other parts of the world are connected with such deposites ; for, in descending through the formation, we find, first, overlying shale, then coal, then coal sandstone, or perhaps millstone grit, and then perhaps carboniferous limestone. But it is well known . that coal occurs in other rocks besides the carboniferous, as in Eastern Virginia in oolitic sandstone, and in other places in tertiary strata. These more recent coals are often of great value, as in Virginia; but they are not generally as good as those from the carboniferous strata. It becomes an important question, therefore, to determine to what geologi- cal period the coal under consideration belongs. A few specimens of the fossil ferns would decide the matter, and I trust that Dr. Shumard is ‘right in referring them to the carboniferous era; but it is known that analogous species occur in the higher rocks; and so, coal, even in the tertiary strata, is sometimes more or less bituminous. The evidence, however, appears to me to be strong in favor of this deposite being of the carboniferous age. But in your letter of April Ist, you state some facts respecting this coal that have thrown a little doubt over my mind. You say that— 142 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. “The coal formation at the Brazos is found in a coarse, dark sandstone rock, which is a solid stratum, but is easily removed in consequence of being so soft. In excavating for a well, we passed through the sand- stone and thecoal. The greater part of the stone was removed with the: mattock; and in the coal, which was here about sixty feet below the surface, we found fossil ferns, which, unfortunately, were not preserved.” ' The ease with which this sandstone was removed, requiring: only a mattock, corresponds better with the hardness of tertiary than of carbo- niferous rocks; yet, in some parts of the world, distant from igneous rocks, the sedimentary strata are but little indurated. Your statement respecting the coal on the Brazos, and the import- ance of the substance to the future inhabitants of the western side of the Mississippi valley, led me to recur to the journals of other explorers, as well as your own from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, published by the government in 1850, to ascertain whether this valuable mineral does not occur in such places as to justify the inference that a large coal field may exist in that portion of our country. T have not all of the necessary works of reference at hand; but, m such as I have, I have found the following cases, including phos already described : 1. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, latitude 334° to 332°, longi- tude 98° to 99°. 2. Between Forts Washita and Smith, latitude 34° to 354°, longitude 944° to 963°. ~ 8. On Coal creek, near the South Fork of the Canali eighty-eight miles from Fort Smith, in longitude 964°, latitude 342°. “Bituminous coal, used by the blacksmiths of the country, who pronounce it of an excellent quality.” (See Captain Marcy’s report, p. 173.) 4, North branch of Platte river, latitude 42° to 43°, longitude 104° to 107°; described by Rev. Samuel Parker, Exploring Tour, p. 73. He calls ne coal “anthracite, the same, to all eae. as he had seen in the coal basins of Pennsylvania.” 5. On the same route, Colonel Fremont found coal and fossil plants in latitude 414°, and longitude 111°. The fossils greatly resembled those of the true coal measures. He also found what was probably brown or tertiary coal, in longitude 107°. ’ 6. Major Emory met with “bituminous coal in abundance,” in lati- tude 41°, longitude 105°. He was told of a bed thirty feet thick. 7. Lieutenant J. H. Simpson describes bituminous coal in beds from two to three feet thick, in latitude 36° 12’, and longitude 108° 52’; and he states it to be “coextensive with the country between the valley APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 143 of the Rio Puerco and the east base of the Sierra de Tunecha, or through a longitudinal interval of 72°.” (Report, p. 147.) 8. Lieutenant Abert found strata, which he regarded “indubitable proof of the existence of coal,” in latitude 364°, and longitude 1044°. (Report, p. 21.) | 9. In 1818, Mr. Bringier described “a large body of blind coal (anthracite) equal in quality to the Kilkenny coal, and by far the best he had seen in the United States, immediately on the bank of the Arkansas, a little above the Pine bayou, five hundred miles from its mouth, in latitude 38°, and longitude 98°.” (Anierican Journal of Science, vol. 3, p. 41.) 10. On Monk’s map of the United States, (1853,) I find two spots in Texas marked as “beds of coal,” one in latitude 29°, and longitude 100°; the other in latitude 282°, and longitude 101°. I might, perhaps, add, that Dr. F. Roemer describes a belt of granitic and palozoic formations, the latter of carboniferous limestone and silurian rocks, surrounded by a vast deposite of cretaceous rocks, be- tween the Pedernales and San Saba rivers, in the northwest part of Texas. The occurrence of such rocks, especially of the carboniferous limestone, affords a strong presumption that the formation that usually lies next above this rock exists in that region. If, now, leaving out the cases described by Fremont as most probably brown or tertiary coal, we locate the others mentioned above upon a map of the United States, we shall find a region lying between latitude 982° and 43°, and between longitude 944° and 109°, containing not less than nine deposites of coal, either bituminous or anthracite; some of them one or two hundred miles long. Its northern limit is the north branch of the Platte river; its eastern limit Fort Smith, on the Arkan- sas; its western limit in the country of the Navajoes, in New Mexico, and even beyond the summit-level of the Rocky mountains; and its southwestern limit the Rio Grande, in the southwest part of Texas. These limits would give a north and south diameter of one thousand miles, and an east and west diameter of six hundred and eighty miles; an extent of surface three times larger than that of all the coal fields in the United States hitherto described, which cover only two hundred and eighteen thousand square miles. Yet, in view of all the facts, I think the geologist will be led strongly to suspect that a large part of this vast region at the southwest may be underlaid by coal. The larger part may be, ana undoubtedly is, covered by newer deposites, especially the cretaceous and the tertiary; and doubtless the older rocks 144 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. in Texas, as already described, may in some districts protrude through the coal measures. But if coal does actually exist beneath the newer rocks, it may be reached, as it has been in like instances in Europe, although no trace of it exists at the surface. The above suggestions may seem to embrace .a very wide field for a coal deposite. But on locating the several patches of coal upon a map of the United States, I was struck with one fact. Starting with the beds marked upon Monk’s map, in the southwest part of Texas, and running the eye along the range of carboniferous limestone described by Dr. Roemer, we come to the coal at Fort Belknap; next to the exten- sive deposite lying between Forts Washita and Smith, in the west part of Arkansas; and all the way we find ourselves almost in the range of _the great coal field of Iowa and Missouri, as mapped by Dr. Owen ; and it seems to me that every geologist will at once infer that the Missouri field does follow this line, not only across Arkansas, but also through the - Choctaw Nation, and probably across Texas—interrupted, probably, in many places by the protrusion of older rocks, and in others covered by newer formations. I have a considerable degree of confidence that such will ere long be found to be the fact, even if we leave out the other coal deposites further west and northwest. And should the result of your explorations be to bring out such a development, I think you must feel rewarded for your fatigues and privations. That some of the cases above described may turn out to be tertiary coal is quite possible, especially those along the base of the Rocky mountains ; for it is well known that much farther to the north such coal is developed on a large scale, especially along Mackenzie’s river, even to its mouth, on the Arctic ocean. Nor is it always easy for those not practised mineralogists to distinguish this coal, especially from anthracite. Dr. Owen describes the southernmost bed of brown coal on the Mis- souri (from four to six feet thick) as having “the aspect of ordinary bituminous coal,” yet as “smouldering away, more like anthracite.” (Report, p. 196.) Even such coal might be of great value; but I can- not believe that much of that described above, especially that on the line above indicated, will prove to be tertiary coal. I ought to have mentioned, that among the specimens in my hands is one of lignite, collected July 3, near the sources of Red river, not far from the “Llano estacado,” and within the limits of the gypsum deposite to be described. It is an exceedingly compact coal, and burns without flame, emitting a pungent but not bituminous odor. It is doubtless tertiary or cretaceous; but I think, if in large masses, it might easily be mistaken for anthracite. APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 145 - From the 8d of May to June 2d, the formation passed over is, as I judge from Dr. Shumard’s sections and descriptions, the predominant one along the upper part of Red river. All the appended sections of Dr. Shumard, except Nos. VI and XI, exhibit the characters and varie- ties of this deposite. Red clay is the most striking and abundant mem- ber; and above this we have a yellow or lighter colored sandstone, often finely laminated. As subordinate members, we have blue and yellow clay, gypsum, non-fossiliferous limestone, conglomerate, and copper ore. Overlying these strata is what Dr. Shumard calls “ drift,” which is surmounted by soil. Excepting the gypsum and the copper, no speci- men of this formation was put into my hands; and only one petrefac- tion which isa coral from the base of section No. IV, unless the fossil- wood belongs to it. Now the question is, shall we regard this formation as tertiary, or eretaceous? With the means in my hands I feel unable to decide this question. If Iam right in referring the fossil coral found in it to the genus Scyphia, as described by Goldfuss, (Petrefacta Germaniz, Tab. XXXII, fig. 8,) it most probably belongs to the cretaceous period ; for, of the one hundred and twenty species of this genus enumerated in Bronn’s Index Paleontologicus, only one is found above the chalk. As to the fossil-wood, which I shall notice more particularly further on, it is well known to occur in almost all the fossiliferous deposites. Upon the whole, I rather lean to the opinion that these strata may belong to the cretaceous formation ; though it is singular, if such be the case, that the fossil remains are so scarce, since, as we shall see, they occur abun- dantly in another portion of the field in which the cretaceous rocks abound. Under these circumstances I shall speak of this deposite under the name of the Red Clay Formation, save where gypsum is very abundant, and then I eall it the Gypsum Formation; and thus have I marked these rocks on your map. The sandstone which constitutes the upper part of this formation has a slight dip, in a few places, of 2° or 3°. On the 8th of June, however, a grayish yellow sandstone is described as having a. westerly dip of 40°; and on the 9th of June, “an outcrop of finely laminated, red, ferruginous sandstone” is mentioned, having an irregular northeasterly dip of 30°, as shown on section VI. The next day the strata were found standing nearly perpendicular ; but whether this sandstone is the same as that lying above the red clay, is not mentioned. If it is, its great dip proba- bly results from some local disturbance. If it is not, it is probably a protruding mass of older rock exposed by denudation or upheaval. 10 146 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. The branches of Red river have eut deep chasms in this formation. In some places they are spoken of as fifty, and in others as two hundred feet deep. This clay, worn away by the streams, and mechanically sus- pended, gives that red color to the water, from which, without doubt, was derived the name of Red river. As to the substances held in solu- tion by the waters of that river, some further description will be desirable before mentioning them. The red clay formation above described abuts against the Witchita mountains, occupying the lower and more level regions around their base. Here we have an outburst of unstratified rocks, which are satis- . factorily represented in the specimens. If the relative position of the red clay and sandstone on section XI is correctly shown, I should infer some disturbance in the stratified de- posites, which would indicate a more recent upheaval of the mountains than might be inferred from the nature of the rocks. The principal one is a red granite, with a great predominance of feldspar, and the almost, total absence of mica. Porphyry also occurs in great quantity, of a reddish color, the imbedded crystals, for the most part, being red feld- spar. In the easterly part of these mountains this rock is developed on a large scale, forming smooth, rounded hills, which slope gradually down tothe plain. Cache creek passes through one of these hills, forming a gorge from three hundred to four hundred feet high, with “smooth, perpendicular walls.” This rock Dr. Shumard calls prophyritic green- stone, and one of these walls is shown on section XI. He says that the rock is slightly columnar. The rocks of these mountains are traversed by veins of greenstone and quartz. The latter is often porous and colored by the oxide of iron. The greenstone is the most recent of the unstratified rocks among my specimens, save a single vesicular mass, broken probably from a boulder, which has all the external marks of lava. It looks more like recent lava than any specimens I have ever met among greenstone or basalt. It was collected June 15th, west of the great gypsum deposite, though in a region abounding with sandstone, and near the blufis that form the border of the “Llano estacado.” Dr. Shumard found in the bed of the Red river, near the same place, what he calls greenstone, green- stone porphyry, and trachite. The specimen to which I have referred is rather augitic than trachitic. He says, also, that he found there “black scoria, and several other specimens of volcanic rocks.” Again, on ap- proaching the Witchita mountains on the return trip, he describes one as “a truncated cone, with a basin-shaped depression in the summit.” Of this he seems to have judged by looking at the mountain from a APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 147 distance. But taking all the facts into the account, I cannot but feel that there is reason to presume that volcanic agency has been active in that region more recently than the trap dykes. I ought to add, that before reaching the Witchita mountains Dr. Shumard met with large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of lime, strewed over the surface. This was on the 18th of May, and on the 27th he “fre- quently encountered local deposites of red, scoriaceous rock.” Among the specimens in my hands are some apparently more or less melted, composed of carbonate of lime and copper ore. Again, scattered widely over the surface, numerous specimens were found of jasper, carnelian, and agate. The carnelian is deep red, but found in botryoidal, or even stalactitical masses, and they have seemed to me to resemble more those silicious nodules found in soft limestone than in trap rocks, They were found most abundantly towards the western part of the region gone over. I ought to have mentioned that the Witchita mountains consist of numerous peaks, rising from eight hundred to nine hundred feet above the river. Mount Webster, one of the most conspicuous, was found to be 783 feet above the plain by the barometer. Twelve of these eleva- tions were found to be composed of granite, which in many places is undergoing rapid disintegration. We have seen in the red clay of this region a reason for the name of Red river, and the character of its waters. In the above description of the rocks of the Witchita mountains, I think we may see the origin of the red clay. The great amount of irén which they contain would produce exactly such a deposite upon their decomposition and erosion by water. And we have reason for supposing this red granite to be a quite extensive formation, as I shall shortly show. No one at all acquainted with the rocks in which gold is found can look at the specimens you have obtained in the Witchita mountains without expecting that he shall be able to detect that metal. The por- phyry, the porous quartz from veins impregnated with hydrate of iron, and the magnetic iron-sand found in the bed of Otter and Cache creeks, excite this expectation. In one of your letters you state that “the peo- ple of Texas have for a long time supposed that there was gold in the Witchita mountains, and they have attempted to make several examina- tions for the purpose of ascertaining the fact, but have invariably been driven away by the Indians. We searched diligently about the mount- _ains, but could find only two very minute pieces imbedded in quartz pebbles.” This, as Dr, Shumard states, was upon Otter creek, and there 148 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. occurred the ferruginous sand, which occurs also upon Cache creek in great quantities. We have not been so fortunate as to find any gold in the specimens sent, although the sand has been carefully examined, and two assays have been made of the quartz in the laboratory. Yet I can easily believe that gold must exist either among that black sand, or in the veins of ferruginous quartz—sometimes three feet wide—so common in the Witchita mountains. It is well known that a good deal of excitement exists on this subject at the present moment in Texas; but the “gold diggings” there lie upon the upper Colorado. From some able remarks on the subject in the “Telegraph and Texan Register” of April 29th, by the editor, Francis Moore, jr., I learn that the region where the gold is found is “a belt of fifteen or twenty miles wide, which extends from the sources of the Gaudalupe, by the Enchanted Rock, to the head of Cherokee creek, a branch of the San Saba.” The description of that belt which follows, as you will see, corresponds very well to the region around the Witchita mountains. “The red granite rocks here crop out above the secondary formations, and veins of quartz are found traversing the rocks in all directions. The soil is generally of a red mulatto color, caused by the decomposition of the red feldspar of the granite. These rocks resemble, it is said, those of the gold regions of California and Santa Fé. A gen- tleman who has recently visited the Nueces states that gold has also been found on that river; and if the report that gold has been found in the Witchita mountains be correct, it is possible that this narrow belt of primitive rocks extends quite through from the Nueces to those moun- tains, a distance of about four hundred miles. It is mentioned in Long’s Expedition that a narrow belt of red granite is found jutting up through the prairie region on the Des Moines river, in lowa, and it is not im- probable that this is a continuation of the primitive ridge, extending by the Witchita mountains and the Enchanted Rock, to the sources of the Nueces, and it may extend far above Lake Superior.” As to this northern extension of these gold-bearing rocks, I do not find much to confirm the conjecture in Dr. Owen’s late able report on that region, _ although he does mention some red granite and some red clay; but the latter is probably alluvial. Yet, that these rocks may extend through Texas, and even much farther north, is extremely probable. But though your discovery of gold will probably excite more atten- tion, I feel that the great gypsum deposit of the West, which you have brought to light, will be of far more consequence to the country. On your map I have colored this formation as you have marked it out. Yet I cannot doubt, from the descriptions and sections, that the ry APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 149 gypsum is embraced in the red clay formation already described, for most of this mineral occurs above the red clay, though sometimes em- braced within it. Yet the importance of the gypsum justifies me in coloring that portion of these strata as the gypsum formation where it is most abundant. It is several times mentioned as occurring in other parts of the region, marked as red clay. But on the 8d of June, high bluffs were met of red and blue clay, with interstratified layers of snow- white gypsum. From this time till the 12th the same formation was found, and also from the 2ist of June to the 9th of July. But your own description of this formation in your letter of November, 1852, contains a better account of its extent than I can give. “T have traced this gypsum belt,” you observe, “from the Canadian river, in a southwest direction, to near the Rio Grande, in New Mexico. It is about fifty miles wide upon the Canadian, and is embraced within the 99th and 100th degrees of west longitude. Upon the North, Mid- dle, and South forks of Red river it is found, and upon the latter is about one hundred miles wide, and embraced within the 101st and 103d degrees of longitude. I also met with the same formation upon the Brazos river, as also upon the Colorado and Pecos rivers, but did not ascertain its width. The point where I struck it, upon the Pecos, was in longitude 1043° W. “Wherever I have met with this gypsum I have observed all the varieties from common plaster of Paris to pure selenite; and among specimens of the latter were pieces three feet by four, two imches in thickness, and as perfectly transparent as any crown glass I have ever seen. It isto be regretted that I could not have brought home some of these beautiful specimens; but my means of transportation were too limited. I regard this gypsum belt as a very prominent and striking feature in the geology of that country. From its uniformity and extent I do not think there is a more perfect and beautiful formation of the kind known. I have myself traced it about three hundred and fifty miles, and it probably extends much further.” The position and thickness of the gypsum beds may be learnt from Dr. Shumard’s sections, especially No. V, where they are from ten to fifteen feet thick. Ido not wonder that you have been deeply impressed with the vast extent of this deposite. Prof. D. D. Owen, in his late valuable report of a geological survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, &c., (1852) describes a gypseous deposite, twenty to thirty feet thick, in the car- boniferous strata, and occupying an area from two to three square miles ; and he says, that “for thickness and extent, this is by far the most important bed of plaster-stone known west of the Appalachian chain, if 150 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. not in the United States.” (p. 126.) Either deposite may be large enough to supply the wants of the inhabitants who may live near enough to obtain it. But the vast extent of your deposite (doubtless greater, as you say, than is at present known) will make it accessible to much the greatest number of people. Indeed, from the well known use of this substance in agriculture, as well as other arts, a knowledge of its existence must have an important bearing upon the settlement and pop- ulation of northwestern Texas. The only deposites of gypsum known to me that are more extensive than the one discovered by you, are in South America. All along the western side of the Cordilleras, especially in Chili, and interstratified. with red sandstone and calcareous slate, beds of gypsum occur of enor- mous thickness, some of them not less than six thousand feet. It has been tilted up and metamorphosed greatly by igneous agency of ancient date, but seems to be of the age of the lower cretaceous rocks. Mr. Darwin, to whose admirable work on the geology of South America I am indebted for these facts, has traced this deposite at least five hundred miles from north to south, (it is not many miles—sometimes, however, twenty or thirty—in width,) and thinks it extends five hundred more; and perhaps much further. He also describes thin beds of gypsum in the tertiary strata of Patagonia and Chili, which are some eleven hun- dred miles in extent. This gypsum is generally more or less erystalline, and corresponds much better in lithological characters with that in Texas, than does the metamorphic gypsum of the Cordilleras. Mr. Dar- win is of opinion, however, that the latter was originally deposited in a manner analogous to the former, viz: by means of submarine volcanoes and the conjoint action of the ocean. Very probably the ancient igne- ous agency which we have described in the Witchita mountains, and along a line southerly to the Rio Grande, may have been connected with the production of the gypseous deposite in the same region. The specimens of this gypsum put into my hands correspond with your descriptions. One of them, of snowy whiteness and compact, it seems to me, might answer for delicate gypseous alabaster, so extensively wrought in other lands for ornamental purposes. The selenite was re- garded among the ancients as the most delicate variety of alabaster, and was employed by the wealthy, and in palaces, for windows, under the name of Phengites. It has the curious property of enabling a per- son within the house to see all that passes abroad, while those abroad cannot see what is passing within. Hence Nero employed it in his palace. If the splendid plates which you describe occur in any consid- — erable quantity, it may hereafter be of commercial value, as it certainly will be of mineralogical interest. APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 151 From your description, especially in your lecture before the American Geographical and Statistical Society, it is manifest that the character o the rocks changes on the northwest of the gypsum formation, and near the head of the south branch of Red river. The red clay and gypsum have disappeared, and sandstone succeeds; but of what age I have no means of judging. Another interesting mineral found by you in the red clay and gypsum formations above described, is copper. The specimens were put into the hands of Professor Charles U. Shepard, who has analyzed them, as well as several other specimens, in the laboratory of Amherst College and whose report I annex to my own. You will see that he has made free use of your name by attaching it to a new ore of copper, found on Red river near the Witchita mountains; and that he describes three or four other species of copper ore from the same region. For a particular description I refer you to his report, while I confine myself to a few re- marks as to the geology of the deposite. On section V, Dr. Shumard has shown the geological position of this ore, viz: near the bottom of, and in the red clay, and more than one hundred feet from the surface. We hence see that the ore was deposited from water, although some specimens from Cache creek of calcareous amygdaloid seem to have been melted. But if, as has been suggested, the gypsum was produced by the joint action of submarine volcanoes and water the copper may have had the same origin, and this would explain the presence of chlorine in the Marcylite. How much copper may be expected in such a region as that on Red river, I have no means of judging, because I know of no analogous formation. But as we have proof that it is an aqueous deposite, and that igneous agency has been active not far off, it would not be strange if the vicinity of the Witchita mountains should prove a prolific locality. The oxide of manganese described by Professor Shepard may, per- haps, be found abundant and more pure. And the iron-sand,so common in some of the creeks, indicates the existence of magnetic oxide of iron in the mountains. Whether the red clay formation and the gypsum formation that have been described are of the eretaceous age or not, there can be no doubt as to the deposites passed over from July 20 to Fort Washita, for among the specimens are two species of Gryphwa, and one echinoderm, much mutilated, but evidently of that period. On the 27th, a “bluish gray, highly crystallized limestone” was observed, which cropped out be- neath the sandstone, and which Dr. Shumard says was “ non fossil- 152 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. iferous.” It continued, however, to the 30th, or to Fort Washita, where he says, “I observed in it a large number of the fossils characteristic of the cretacéous period.” Probably he refers to two kinds of limestone.> and not improbably the limestone and sandstone first noticed belong to the carboniferous strata already noticed. Among the specimens I also find parts of two species of ammonite; one quite large, but quite char- acteristic of the cretaceous strata, and resembling some good specimens in the collection of the American Board of Foreign Missions, obtained by their missionaries in the Choctaw country. I cannot doubt that these strata are largely developed in that vicinity. Indeed, that region has already been colored as of the cretaceous age upon our geological maps. I have, therefore, marked a strip of cretaceous rocks between Forts Belknap and Washita. These are, in truth, the predominant strata in Alabama, Mississippi, and Texas, and I need not go into details respecting them. : Dr. Shumard frequently speaks of a surface formation under the name of drift, consisting of boulders of all the rocks: described above, and some others, such as mica slate and labradorite. But I doubt whether this formation be the same which we denominate drift in New England—the joint result of water and ive; for no example has as yet been found of drift agency as far south as Texas, by several degrees. _ Yet there is evidence of a southerly movement among the smaller rolled detritus almost to the Gulf of Mexico, such as water alone could produce, seeming to be the result of the same current, destitute of ice, that produced the coarse unstratified and unsorted drift of Canada and New England. But among the specimens in my hands are several of silicified wood, and all of them, I believe, are mentioned in Dr. Shu- mard’s notes as occurring in drift; although in your letter of December 5, 1852, you speak of masses from fifty to one hundred pounds in weight in the gypsum formation. You may mean in its upper part; * if so, there may be no discrepancy between the two statements; and I have been led to suspect that what Dr. Shumard calls drift may be only a newer portion of the tertiary strata, although, as already re- marked, silicified wood is found in almost all the fossiliferous formations. All the specimens sent by you, however, with one exception, are dicoty- ledonous. They resemble not a little the fossil-wood from Antigua, and the desert near Cairo, in Egypt; both of which deposites are tertiary. One specimen is a beautiful example of a monocotyledon, a cross sec- *The fossil-wood referred to in Captain Marcy’s letter was found upon the upper surface of the formation. APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 153 tion showing vessels of the shape of a half or gibbous moon. This fact shows that the climate was warm enough for trees analogous to the palm tribe to flourish; yet the great predominance of dicotyledonous forms shows a close analogy with the existing vegetation of the south- ern part of our country; nor is there evidence, in these specimens, of a temperature above that now existing in our southern States, since seve- ral species of palms occur there. _ The two subsoils analyzed by Professor Shepard, give very interesting results. The first is highly calcareous; and when the lime shall have been exhausted in the overlying soil, this material, thrown up by sub- soil ploughing, would be equal to a large dressing of lime.’ In the other subsoil we have an extraordinary amount of sulphate of lime, and a sufliciency of carbonate of lime, as well as chlorine and soda. It seems hardly possible to doubt that such a basis would need only organic matter to render it one of the most productive of all soils ; and when we think how extensive the gypsum formation is from which this subsoil was obtained, we cannot but anticipate (unless there are coun- teracting causes of which I amignorant) that that portion of our coun- try will become a rich agricultural district—I mean the region lying east of the “ Llano estacado.” Only one specimen of common salt (chloride of sodium) was sent among the specimens, and that, as you inform me, “ was procured by the Comanche Indians in the country lying between the Canadian and Arkansas rivers.” We are now prepared to appreciate an analysis of the water of Red river, which has been executed in the laboratory of Amherst College by Mr. Daniel Putnam, under the direction of Professor W. S. Clark. This is somewhat of a mineral water, and you remark that all the waters originating in the gypsum formation have the same bitter and nauseat- ing taste. I think you are right in the opinion that the ingredients are derived from that formation. Analysis shows that the taste depends upon the presence of three salts in nearly equal proportions, two of which, sulphate of magnesia, or Epsom salts, and chloride of sodium, are very sapid. Mr. Putnam’s analysis is as follows: “ Water from Red river— Water impninidionneessse/s f..5 JS pace Slee ae 4, Weight of water in grammes....-.---------..----- 127.800 Weight’ of chlorine present,...-.. 2 ..-2--2--2---- .051 Weight. ot lime: Presenteacss oi ol ee coe ees .033 Weight of sulphuric acid present..........---..--- .095 Residue evaporated to dryness, and weighed, proba- bly, sulphates of soda and magnesia together, WelOMGramienee esiseeameeaiole phere mtaatarey etre ie atatats - .168 154 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. “Tt was impossible, with the small quantity of water, to determine the last two ingredients with absolute certainty. In the calculations following they are re- garded as real. Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphurie¢ acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with sodium, we have the following results: Weightof sulphatevot men. o-ss seme oe conomaee .080 Weight of sulphate of magnesia-.....--......----- 073 Weight of chloride of sodium........-...---.----- .084 Wreisht ot the wholecesoscus 2. ahaa ls ae Lan 237 Per-centage of matter in solution, about.----.....-. 19 “The analysis of the water from a spring in a gypsum cave, yielded the following results: Weight of the water, in fluid ounces.......--.------ 4. Weight of the water in grammes, about -....---.... 127.800 Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid present ..--......-. O11 Wreishtrofichlonine2 28 see ee eae ale ee See 044 IWreipirtjofclinn 6 2 (este pte 28) yo a SSP aaa 090 Wreightiotesulphittric acids 2h) 2s. sce ease sae aoe 227 The residue was evaporated, and the presence, but not the weight, of magnesia, found separate from the soda. The quantity was very small, however. Soda and magnesia together, about..----......----- .130 “Regarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as united partly with magnesia and partly with seda, and the chlorine with sodium, we have the following results: Weight of sulphaterof lime j22. 25-252 5225528 eae 219 Weight of sulphate of magnesia...-.-...---.-.----- -088(?) Weight ofjsulphate of sodas) - 2525 coc. nso so -073(2) Weight of chloride of sodium ...--...----.-....-.. 023 Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid..---...---..------ 3 OIL Weight.ofthe wholes so Sassen eae eee Se oe 414 Per-centage of matter in solution....---.----.----- 82 “The analyses of water, on account of the small quantity, cannot be relied upon as perfectly accurate; but they are the best I could make under the circum- stances.”’ Your account of the remarkable cafons of Red river, where it comes out from the borders of the “Llano estacado,” as given in your lecture before the American Geographical and Statistical Society, has been read by me with great interest. For several years past I have been engaged in studying analogous phenomena in this, which seems to me a neglected part of geology. The canons of our southwestern regions are among the most remarkable examples of erosions on the APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 155 globe; and the one on Red river seems to me to be on a more gigantic scale than any of which I have found a description. You seem in doubt whether this gorge was worn away by the river, or is the result of some paroxysmal convulsion. You will allow me to say that I have scarcely any doubt that the stream itself has done the work. The fact that when a tributary stream enters the main river it passes through a trib- utary canon, seems to me to show conclusively that these gorges were produced by erosion, and not by fractures; for, how strange would it be if fractures should take those ramifications and curvatures which a river and its tributaries present. And, moreover, I find cases where I can prove, from other considerations, that streams of water (existing and ancient rivers) have eaten out gorges quite as difficult to excavate as any of the canons of the West. So that, if we must admit that rivers have done a work equally great in one case, all presumption is removed against their doing the same in other cases. I have a great number of facts, which I hope to be able, if life be spared, to present to the public on this subject; and I am very glad to add the canons of Red river to the number. Before Professor Adams’s departure for the West Indies last winter, I secured his report, hereto subjoined, upon the recent shells collected in your expedition. It derives a melancholy interest from having been among the last, if not the very last, of his scientific efforts, he having been cut off by yellow fever in January. With this imperfect elucidation of the facts collected by you in your laborious explorations, I subscribe myself, With great_respect, Your obedient servant, EDWARD HITCHCOCK. e Amuerst CoLLEGE, June 5, 1853. Be 156 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY.. REMARKS UPON THE GENERAL GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY PASSED OVER BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO. THE SOURCES OF RED RIVER, UNDER COMMAND OF CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY, U. S. A.: BY GEO. G. SHUMARD, M. D. It is to be regretted that the main objects contemplated by the expedition were of such a character as to allow of merely a partial geological exploration. It was found necessary to traverse a large extent of country in a limited period of time, so that not as many opportunities were allowed for making minute and detailed sections of the strata as could have been desired. However, it is believed that something has been done towards elucidating the geology of a valuable and interesting district of our country, which hitherto has received but little attention from geologists. We will first submit a brief account of the geological features of a portion of Northwestern Arkansas, which will enable us to understand more clearly the character of the deposites observed on the route travelled by the party, and exhibit more satisfactorily the connection of the cretaceous group with the older or palxozcic rocks. In Washing- ton county we have a fine development of rocks belonging to the carboniferous period, rising sometimes several hundred feet above the water-level of Arkansas river. They consist of beds of dark-gray and bluish-gray limestone, surmounted by heavy-bedded coarse and fine- grained quartzose sandstone. The ridges of highest elevation run nearly north and south through the centre of the country, forming a geological back-bone; the waters from one side flowing eastwardly into White river, and on the other westwardly into Illinois river, both streams being tributaries of the Arkansas. Wherever the limestone forms the surface-rock, the soil is of excellent " character, and for productiveness is unsurpassed by any in the State ; but where the sandstone reaches the surface, the soil becomes too arena- ceous, and is of inferior quality for agricultural purposes. The lime- stone is generally highly charged with fossils, and, im many places, beds of considerable thickness are almost entirely composed of the remains of Crinoidea. In the lithological and palzeontological characters it corresponds very closely to the rocks of the superior division of the carboniferous system of Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and Missouri. The fossils are usually remarkably well preserved. The following are the most abundant and APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 157 characteristic species: Archimedipora archimides, Agassizocrinus dacty- liformis, Pentatematites sulcatus, Productus cora, P. punctatus, P. cos- taius, Terebratula subtelita, and Terebratula Marcyi.* We have found all these species associated together in Grayson county, Kentucky, near Salem, Indiana, and at Chester and Kaskaskia, Illinois. The line of junction between the sandstone and limestone is well defined, there being an abrupt transition from the one into the other. The sandstone has yielded but few fossils, and these only calamites and ferns. ; Veins of sulphuret of lead traverse the limestone at several points in Washington county, and I have been informed that valuable beds of iron ore occur here; workable seams of bituminous coal have also been discovered at a number of localities in the county. Proceeding in a southerly direction through the counties of Crawford and Sebastian, the limestone, which, with few exceptions, constitutes the surface-rock in Washington county, dips beneath the sandstone, and the latter forms the entire mass of the hills, rising sometimes to the altitude of a thousand feet above the adjacent streams: it is, for the most part, the prevailing rock the entire distance between Fort Smith and Camp Belknap. The sandstone is often highly ferruginous, and varies in color from light-gray to dark brown. It exists in heavy mas- sive beds, made up of coarse quartzose grains, with intercalations of finer-grained sandstone, occasionally beautifully ripple-marked. It cor- responds in its lithological features with that forming the Ozark range of mountains. ; In Sebastian county I found a few Calamites, Lepidodendra, and several varieties of fossil ferns of the coal formation, but organic remains are by no means abundant. Bituminous coal exists in almost inexhaust- ible quantities throughout the county. The seams vary in thickness from a few inches to seven feet, and they lie in such a manner that they can be wrought easily. Coal has also been discovered at a number of local- ities between Fort Smith and Fort Washita. About a hundred miles southwest of Fort Smith we encountered an outcrop of bluish-gray limestone, which extends across the country in a southeasterly direction for the distance of about twenty miles; it presents an average thickness of about ten feet, with a dip to the east of 30°. Its precise character could not be determined, as we were unable to find any fossils. *Figures and descriptions of the fossils of these beds will be found in the appended report of Dr. B. F. Shumard om the paleontology of the expedition. 158 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. Pursuing the same direction, twenty-five miles beyond is an outburst of granite, which extends for the distance of twenty-six miles, with a southerly bearing. This is the only example of rocks of igneous origin to be met with between Fort Smith and Preston, and the rough and rugged features of the country where it prevails, forms a striking con- trast with the comparatively rounded outline of sandstone hills. The rock is of a coarse texture, and varies in compactness in different portions of the range; feldspar of the flesh-colored varieties predominates over the other ingredients. In places the rocks would form an excellent and durable building material, but in other portions of the range it crumbles readily when exposed to the action of the weather. We observed numerous veins of quartz traversing the granite in various directions, and, at some points, dykes of compact greenstone porphyry. Saline springs were found not unfrequently issuing from the base of the range, and the waters in one or two instances were found so strongly impregnated with saline matter, as to induce the belief that they might be worked with profit. Passing this range the sandstone again reappears, and constitutes the prevailing rock to within a short distance of Fort Washita, where it disappears, and is succeeded by strata of the eretaceous period. From this point the cretaceous rocks were found to extend unin- terruptedly until we reached the southwestern boundry of the Cross- Timbers, in Texas. From the best information I was able to procure, it constitutes the prevailing formation from Fort Washita in the direction of Fort Towson for upwards of a hundred miles, with an average breadth of fifty miles. It forms part of that extensive belt of cretaceous strata that extends from Georgia to Texas, and which, from the charac- ter of its fossil fauna, is now regarded as the equivalent of the upper chalk of England, and with that division of the cretaceous group to which D’Orbigny gives the name of 7’ Htage Senonien, (Prodrome de Palzontologie, tome II, page 669.) Wherever sections of the strata were to be seen they presented the following characters: grayish yellow sandstone, with intercalations of blue, yellow, and ash-colored clays, and beds of white and bluish-white limestone. The limestone reposes on the clays and sandstones. At some points it attains the thickness of a hundred feet, while at others it is quite thin, and sometimes even entirely wanting. It is usually soft and friable, and liable to disintegrate rapidly when exposed to the action of the weather. These cretaceous rocks are often full of fossils. At Fort Washita the layers are crowded with Ananchytes, Hemiaster, Nucleolites, Ammonites, Ostrea, Pecten, &c., descriptions and figures of which will be found in Dr. B. F. Shumard’s “APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 159 report on the paleontology of the expedition. We saw here some specimens of ammonites several feet, in diameter, and weighing between four and five hundred pounds. On Red river, twenty-six miles from Fort Washita, the sandstone of the cretaceous group supports about twenty-five feet of ash-colored calcareous loam, which, on inspection, was found to contain terrestrial and fluviatile shell of the genera Lymnea, Physa, Planorbis, Pupa, aud Helix, the whole resembling species which we have observed in the loam at New Harmony, Indiana, and elsewhere in the Mississippi valley, which Mr. Lyell, during his visit to this country, recognised as the equivalent of the loess of the Rhine. _ The geological formation, as developed in the vicinity of Camp Belknap, consists of nearly horizontal strata of fine-grained sandstone, shale, and soft, drab-colored, non-fossiliferous limestone, whose relative positions correspond with strata of the same character largely developed between Fort Washita and Fort Smith. On the surface were in many places strewn fragments of a reddish-gray, igneous rock, containing a large per-centage of carbonate and oxide of iron. From the frequent indications of the presence of that metal in various localities of this region, it is not improbable that this may become hereafter an extensive and profitable field of mining enterprise. Recently a number of seams of bituminous coal, varying in thickness from two to four feet, as well as the characteristic fossil ferns of the carboniferous era, have been discovered. The following section, taken about one mile from the post, may aay a better idea of the formation : 1. Subsoil arenaceous, and of a red color; thickness from three to ten feet. 2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating; four feet thick. 3. Seams of bituminous coal, from two to four feet thick. 4, Fine-grained sandstone, of a yellowish gray color, and containing fossil ferns ; thickness variable. 5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone; thickness unknown. The water obtained from springs in this vicinity frequently contains iron in solution. I have been informed that in a few instances chloride of sodium has been detected in it. May 3—Formation the same as at Camp Belknap. Observed, strewn over the surface, large quantities of iron-stone; soil and subsoil arenaceous, and deeply tinged with oxide of iron. May 4.—Saw a number of horizontal layers of coarsely laminated sandstone; between the laminations were observed a large number of ripple-marks. Soil good, and of a dark color; subsoil, in some places, arenaeeous, in others argillaceous, and of a deep-red color, _ 160 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. May 5.—For the first six miles the surface became gradually more elevated. Here, and elsewhere to-day, we met with a number of hori- zontal layers of coarse-grained and highly ferruginous sandstone, which was more or less laminated, and highly embossed with ripple-marks. In many places we met with extensive deposites of porous and dark- colored igneous rock, containing a large per-centage of oxide of iron. The surface was everywhere strewn with drift, mostly composed of quartz, greenstone porphyry, and granite. Saw a number of conical hills, varying in height from ten to seventy-five feet, and composed of horizontal layers of sandstone, of. the same character as that first met with to-day. Owing to the rapid disintegration of the sandstone, the hills are gradually crumbling away. In many places we found a few loose fragments of sandstone, intermixed with sand, the only indication left of the previous existence of many of them. In this manner has a levelling process gone on for ages, which, if not interfered with, will ultimately tend to the removal of the various inequalities of the surface of the prairies. Soil good; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep-red color: this mixing in the form of sediment with the water, imparts to it a red color and disagreeable taste. From the north branch of the Witchita I collected a number of bivalve shells of the genus Unio. May 6.—Sandstone and drift the same as yesterday. Saw a num- ber of bluff banks, varying in height from ten to fifty feet. They were composed of red loam, the relative position of. which was found to be below that of the sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as we passed yesterday. . May 7.—¥ormation the same. Drift appears to be gradually becom- ing more abundant. May 8.—During the day we had frequent opportunities of observing the sandstone and red loam. ‘Their relative positions were the same as before, and dipped in various directions at angles of from one to three degrees. Saw a number of small boulders, composed of granite and greenstone porphyry. May 9.—Did not move from camp. In the afternoon I explored a few miles along the banks of the Big Witchita. The geological forma- tion, as there developed, consisted of finely laminated, soft, ferruginous ~ sandstone, interstratified with red clay, together with drift, which last was much coarser than any previously observed. Soil good; subsoil loamy. : May 11.—¥ormation the same as before. Found a number of spe- cimens of peroxide of iron. APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 161 May 12.—Red river, as observed to-day, runs through a thick bed of red Joam, which, mixing with the water, imparts to it highly charac- teristic red sedimentary properties. Its bed was composed of fine sand. After travelling about six miles we came to a small creek with high bluff banks, near the base of which I observed a number of specimens of green and blue copper ores. Associated with it, as a matrix, was a porous and dark-colored igneous rock, containing disseminated parti- cles of green copper ore. At this point I had an opportunity of ob- serving the aqueous strata, from which I obtained the following see- tion : 1. Black argillaceous subsoil; six feet thick. 2. Soft fine-grained sandstone, of a grayish color ; five feet thick. 3. Red and blue clay ; from six to ten feet thick. These strata presented an easterly dip of nearly two degrees. I saw during the day large quantities of drift and a few small boulders, com- posed of granite, quartz, and greenstone porphyry. In a few hours we arrived at Cache creek, which runs between high bluff banks composed of red clay; its bottom was thickly strewn with large, angular frag- ments of quartz, greenstone porphyry, granite, and hornblende rock. Within a short distance from the creek we found a small spring of clear water, which was strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep-red color. May 14.—Did not move from camp. In the evening I rode to the junction of Cache creek and Red river, near which point I observed a stratum of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone; in some places it was interstratified with red clay, and presented a south-southeasterly dip of three degrees, (see Section No. 8.) Saw scattered over the surface a number of small boulders of the same composition as those of yesterday. Soil black and fertile; subsoil argillaceous. May 15.—Did not move from camp; tested the water of Cache creek, and found it strongly alkaline. Its temperature was 75° F. May 16.—Passed to-day a number of long, low ridges, presenting on one side a gradual slope towards the prairie level ; on the other, abrupt precipitous terminations. They were, for the most part composed of dark-colored seoriaceous rock, containmg a moderate per-centage of copper ore. About 8 o’clock we came to a small creek, near which I ob- served a deposite of soft granite, which appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The banks of the creek were composed of horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, deeply tinged with copper, and resting upon a base of red indurated clay. Saw to-day large quantities 11 162 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. of drift, containing small boulders, composed, as before, of greenstone porphyry, quartz, and granite; soil and subsoil arenaceous. May 17.—Formation the same as on yesterday ; saw strewn over the surface a large quantity of reddish-brown and black calcareous rock, containing carbonate of copper and small crystals of calcareous spar. From the drift (which appears to be becoming more abundant and its particles less rounded) I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, and. carnelian. Soil and subsoil arenaceous, and of a reddish color. May 18.—Saw a number of deposites of soft, coarse granite, which appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The surface presented large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of lime; soil and subsoil arenaceous. May 20.—Observed several clear springs bubbling up from beneath the surface. Formation the same as before; soil and subsoil arenaceous. May 21.—Met to-day with several sections of finely laminated sand- stone of the same character as that before mentioned, with the exception that the different laminz were thickly marked with small circular spots of a green and yellow color. In several places I found it interstratified with red clay. Near our encampment a fine section, showing an anticlinal axis, the strata dipping east and west at an angle of three degrees, exposed itself; over the surface were strewn large quantities of dark- colored igneous rock of the same character as that seen on the 18th instant. The drift was less abundant than before; soil and subsoil arenaceous. May 22.—The surface was strewn in many places with detritus com- posed of greenstone porphyry and granite; soil and subsoil arenaceous. May 23.—Did not move from camp; in the evening I explored Otter creek, which at this point runs between bluff banks composed of red clay. Its bed was thickly covered with drift, from which I obtained a number of agates, and two small specimens of bluish-yellow quartz, each con- taining a small particle of gold. By digging a few inches below the drift, I reached a deposite of black ferruginous sand, which, upon being stirred, emitted a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. From the creek I obtained a number of univalve and bivalve shells; the latter principally of the genus Unio. Captain Marcy having to-day visited several of the mountains, pre- sented me with a number of specimens of soft granite of a reddish- brown color, and of which the mountains appeared to be composed. May 25.—Remained in camp. This afternoon I measured with a thermometer the temperature of Otter creek, and found it to be 72° F, APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 163 Immediately adjoining the creek the soil is good and very productive ; but at a little distance from it, it is barren and sandy. May 26.—To-day we passed a number of sand-hills, varying in height from ten to thirty feet. The only rocks met with were a few small boulders, composed of quartz and greenstone. May 27.—The surface was in many places composed of detritus of granite, quartz, and greenstone; saw to-day a number of boulders, mostly composed of hard granite, and presenting smooth and polished surfaces. The largest was about fifteen feet in circumference, and would weigh probably three or four thousand pounds. We frequently en- countered local deposites of red scoriaceous rock. Captain McClellan having visited one of the mountains, presented me with a specimen of gray calcareous sandstone, which, as he informed me, he obtained from a horizontal stratum of the same, situated within a few feet of the base of the mountain. Thus far about twelve of the Witchita mountains have been ex- amined, and have been found to present a nearly uniform appearance and structure. Composed of fine granite of various degrees of hardness and color, they rise abruptly from a smooth and nearly level plain to the height of eight or nine hundred feet. Many of them are isolated and of an irregular conical shape, while others are grouped together in small clusters, and are more or less rounded. At a distance they ap- peared to be smooth, but upon a nearer approach their surfaces were found to be quite rough, and presenting the appearance of loose rock thrown confusedly together. In many places the granite was observed occupying its original position, and was variously traversed by joints and master-joints, which, intersecting each other at right-angles, gave to the mass somewhat of a cuboidal structure. Soil rich, and from three to four feet thick; subsoil argillaceous and of a red color. May 28.—Did not move from camp. In the evening I explored a short distance up and down Otter creek; its bed is here composed of horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, containing green and yellow spots of the same character as those noticed on the 21st instant. May 29.—Passed a number of the mountains, several of which I ascended and found composed of hard granite, variously traversed by veins of greenstone porphyry and yellow quartz; the last containing small scales of mica. The sides of the mountains frequently presented lofty precipices, one of which was divided from top to bottom by a vein of greenstone nearly perpendicula%, and about twenty inches thick. I observed no change in the character of the adjoining prairie, except a few local deposites of drift and detritus, from which I collected specimens 164 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. of chalcedony, agate, and jasper. No rock of any description was observed at a greater distance than a few feet from the base of the mountains. Soil thick and fertile; subsoil loamy. May 30.—The mountains did not differ materially in appearance or structure from those before observed; at a distance, a few of them appeared to present a columnar structure; but upon a nearer approach this was found to be owing to divisional plains, or master-joints, with weather-worn and rounded edges. I observed to-day a number of clear springs; the water of several being tasted was found to be alkaline. In the prairie we observed several circular elevations, varying from one hundred to one hundred and thirty yards in diameter, and ascending in some places to the height of three or four hundred feet above the general level. Upon examination, their mineralogical composition was found to be the same as that of the neighboring mountains. Within a few feet of one of these, a small ravine exposed to view a horizontal stratum of soft ferruginous sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as on yesterday. May 31.—The mountains presented the same general appearance as on yesterday. From their surface were exhibited a large number of veins, varying in thickness from an inch to a foot and a half, and com- posed of greenstone, quartz,and hornblende. The prairie was here and there dotted with a number of conoidal elevations, varying in height from twenty to one hundred feet. In composition they agreed in every respect with the neighboring mountains, with which in origin they appeared to be cotemporaneous. From the drift I collected specimens of fossil-wood. The water of springs issuing from the mountains I found, upon test, to be alkaline. June 1.—Red river as observed to-day runs between low bluff blanks, composed of red clay. Its bed was in some places thickly strewn with large detached masses of granite, all presenting a highly water-worn appearance, and seeming to have been derived from a neighboring mountain. Soil and subsoil the same as before. June 2.—Immediately upon leaving the Witchita mountains, we lost all traces of drift and other igneous rocks. Red river as observed to-day runs between high bluff banks, composed of horizontal layers of red, yellow, and blue clay, and finely laminated sandstone; the latter being interstratified with thin seams of saccharoid gypsum, (see Section No. 4.) About a mile from the river we observed two conical hills—one fifty and the other eighty feet in height#-composed of horizontal layers of sandstone, interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From them I obtained specimens of selenite. Soil and subsoil loamy. APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 165 June 8.—To day we came to a range of high bluffs about six miles in length, and extending in a direction nearly parallel with the river. At a distance they resembled a long line of fortification; upon examina- tion they were found to be composed of horizontal layers of red and blue clay, thickly interstratified with snow-white gypsum, (see Section No. 5.) These bluffs appeared to be rapidly yielding to the weather: along their base were thickly strewn large cuboidal masses of gypsum—some ten feet in diameter—that appeared to have been but recently detached from a stratum of the same near their summits. In the blue clay I observed a thin seam of carbonate of copper. The gypsum was also in a few places slightly tinged with the same metal. In a southerly direction, and at the distance of about fifteen miles, we observed another range of gypsum bluffs: they appeared to run in a direction parallel with those already described. ‘The intervening country was very rough and broken. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous. June 4.—Passed a number of bluffs of the same composition as those observed yesterday. The surface during the greater portion of the march was whitened by gypsum, which was always found occupying its position above the red clay. In the evening [ visited a small hill, situ- ated about three miles from camp, and succeeded in discovering a thin seam of copper ore, as well as large beds of selenite. Soil and subsoil the same as on yesterday. June 5.—The country travelled over to day was mostly composed of sand-hills, varying in height from ten to sixty feet. On the middle branch of Red river we saw long ranges of bluffs, which, upon examina- tion, proved to be of the same character and composition as those seen on the 3d instant. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. June 6.—To-day we passed a number of bluffs composed of red clay; I did not observe any gypsum in their composition. As we progressed the country gradually became more elevated. Here, for the first time since leaving the Witchita mountains, we met with large quantities of drift, composed principally of quartz and mica-schist. On Red river we saw a fine section, fully exposed, showing a horizontal sub-stratum of coarse-grained sandstone, overlaid by drift; the latter forty feet thick. June 7.—Formation the same as on yesterday. June 8.—Passed a number of ravines, the sides of most of which were composed of red clay. At about 8 o’clock we came to a small eminence in the prairie, near which I observed an outcrop of grayish- yellow sandstone, presenting a dip of forty degrees to the west. The surface was thickly covered with drift. I saw a number of boulders composed of coarse and fine conglomerate, the largest of which meas- 166 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. ured fifteen feet in diameter. At 9 o’clock we came to a small creek, with high banks composed of gray calcareous loam, from which latter I obtained a number of shells, characteristic of the loess formation ; Helix plebeium, Succinea elongata, &e. Soil barren and sandy ; subsoil in some places argillaceous, in others arenaceous. June 9.—Passed to-day a number of small ravines, the sides of which were composed of red clay, overlaid by sandstone and drift. Thesurfaee was in many places covered with sand-hills, varying from ten to fifty feet in height. About 8 o’clock we came to an outcrop of finely lam- inated red ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the northeast of about thirty degrees, (see section No. 4.) Soil arena- ceous; subsoil in many places argillaceous. June 10.—Formation the same as on yesterday. We frequently found the sandstone exposed and exhibiting evidences of violent disturb- ance, the strata being variously fractured, and in some places upheaved in such a manner as to stand almost perpendicular. With the exception of the creek bottoms, the soil was sandy and barren; subsoil the same as before. June 11.—The surface to-day presented nothing but a succession of hills composed of blown sand, varying in height from ten to one hun- dred feet. No sandstone or drift was anywhere observed. June 12.—To-day I observed large quantities of drift, of the same composition as before; through it were scattered small boulders, com- posed of quartz and mica-schist. The surface was in many places covered with loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The particles com- posing the drift were frequently thickly coated with the same substance. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. June 13.—Did not leave camp. June 14.—Drift and limestone the same as before. About 7 o’clock we came to a small ravine, the sides of which exposed a horizontal stratum of coarse-grained sandstone twenty feet thick. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, chalcedony, and fossil-wood. Soil and subsoil the same as before. June 15.—The country travelled over to-day was everywhere divided by ridges and ravines; the former sometimes sloping gradually on either side—at others presenting abrupt precipitous terminations. Besides these, a large number of sand-hills, varying in height from twenty to one hundred feet, were observed. The sandstone was frequently exposed. In a few places I found it interstratified with course conglomerate ; saw a number of small boulders, composed mostly of greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and trachyte. In the bed of the river I found a large mass APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 167 of black scoriz: and several other specimens of volcanic rocks. Drift the same as on yesterday; soil and subsoil arenaceous. June 16.—The surface was broken, and presented a number of sand- hills. Saw to-day large quantities of drift, which did not differ in com- position from that previously noticed. At about eight o’clock we came to along range of high bluffs, which, as we afterwards ascertained, marked the borders of the “Llano estacado.” They were composed of horizontal layers of drift, sandstone, and yellow clay, (see Section No. 7,) all of which seemed to be rapidly yielding to the weather. At the base of the bluffs I observed a few small boulders composed of green- stone porphyry. Soil and subsoil sandy. June 20.—During the first part of our route we travelled over a hilly and broken region, consisting for the most part of a succession of sand- hills, varying from ten to one hundred feet in height. At the distance of five miles we reached a gradual ascent, which soon led us to the summit of a high and slightly-rolling plain: over its surface were scattered a great many fragments of white carbonate of lime, as well as drift. From the latter I obtained specimens of agate, chalcedony, &e. During the day I had frequent opportunities of observing the formation, which uniformly consisted of drift, interstratified with horizontal layers of red and yellow clay. Sometimes the drift exhibited a calcareous coating, the same as before described. June 21.—Passed to day a number of drift-hills, varying in height from twenty to one hundred feet. The surface was very much divided by ravines, with perpendicular sides, composed mostly of red clay, and varying in depth from ten to fifty feet. Near our encampment I ob- served a horizontal section of yellow loam, coarse conglomerate, and red clay; the last thickly reticulated with gypsum, and overlaid by a terminating stratum of the same, (see Section No. 8.) Soil and subsoil arenaceous. June 22.—Passed a large number of drift-hills. The country, as on yesterday, was very rough, and much aivided by ravines, some of which were fifty feet deep. Their sides were generally composed of red clay, overlaid by drift; in a few instances they exposed seams of gypsum. From the drift I obtained specimens of fossil-wood, agate, jasper, and a few water-worn fossil shells of the genus Ostrea. Soil and subsoil the same as before. June 23.—To-day we observed the gypsum frequently exposed. It did not differ in character from that previously described, and was » always found overlying the red clay. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 168 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. June 24.—The surface was in many places thickly strewn with loose fragments of white carbonate of ime. About seven o’clock we reached, after a gradual ascent, a high, level, and very fertile plain, from which we obtained an extensive view of the surrounding country, which was very hilly and divided by numerous ravines. The plain at its termina- tion presented a long line of high bluffs, composed of horizontal strata of drift, finely laminated sandstone, white limestone, conglomerate, gyp- sum, and red and yellow clay, (see Section No. 9.) The red clay was thickly interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From the drift I obtained specimens of agates, fossil-wood, jasper, and chalcedony. Soil and subsoil the same as before. June 25.—The country travelled over to-day was very hilly and broken, being much divided by long, narrow ravines, with nearly per- pendicular sides, composed of red clay—some of them being over one hundred feet deep. In many places we were surrounded by high bluffs. The drift was found to be unusually abundant—in some places fifty feet thick, and much coarser than before met with. At about eleven o’clock -we came in sight of the valley of the Dogtown river. On either side it was bounded by long lines of buffs, in composition similar to those previously noticed, and varying in height from one hundred to one hun- dred and fifty feet. From the drift we obtained specimens of chalee- dony, agates, silicified wood, and jasper, besides a large number of shells of the same character as those observed on the 22d instant. The beds of the different streams crossed were covered with black ferruginous sand. Soil good, consisting of a rich black mould ; subsoil argillaceous. June 26.—For the first few miles the country was hilly and very much divided by ravines, some of which were two hundred feet in depth. The strata exposed by them were invariably found to consist of hori- zoutal layers of red clay, gypsum, and drift, each occupying the same relative position as shown in Section No. 9. June 277.—Formation the same as on yesterday. At ten o’clock we came to Dogtown river, the bed of which was composed of yellow sand, intermixed in some places with red clay, and covered with small shining particles of gypsum. I observed in the drift large quantities of red and yellow jasper. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. June 28.—Saw a large number of drift-hills, varying in height from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. After travelling a few miles we again came to the borders of the “Llano estacado,” which here presented a long line of bluffs six hundred feet high, and composed of horizontal layers of drift and sandstone, interstratified with white limestone. Frome APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. 169 the base of the bluffs to the river the country presented a gradual slope of four hundred feet. Section No. 10 is intended to represent the geological formation from the river level to the summit of the bluffs; the inferior strata, or those between the base of the bluffs and the river, having been ascertained, from numerous observations, to consist of gypsum and red clay. From the drift I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, granite, and ob- sidian. July 4.—The formation as observed to-day consisted of red clay, gypsum, and drift: they were all found occupying the same relative positions as before. Soil mostly fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 5.—Observed in the prairie a circulay outcrop of finely lami- nated calcareous sandstone about three hundred feet in diameter, and presenting a quaquaversal dip of forty degrees. Over the prairie were strewn a number of small boulders variously composed of mica-schist, greenstone, and quartz. Red clay, gypsum, and drift, the same as before. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. July 6.—Observed a number of hills, varying in height from fifty to one hundred feet; in form they resemble truncated cones, and were composed of horizontal layers of sandstone and red clay. General formation the same as before. Soil in some places fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 7.—With the exception of the drift, which appears to be rapidly diminishing in thickness, the formation did not differ from that pre- viously observed. The surface was everywhere whitened with beds of gypsum and loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The former varied in thickness from five to fifteen feet ; in it were observed large quantities of selenite. July 8.—The formation was mostly composed of red clay, with a few local deposites of soft carbonate of lime and dark-colored cellular sandstone. Saw no drift or gypsum to-day. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 9.—Again came in sight of the Witchita mountains: the one nearest to us presented the form of a truncated cone, with an irregular basin-shaped depression upon the summit. The formation everywhere consisted of red clay; in a few places it was overlaid by thin seams of gypsum, containing selenite. I observed a number of local deposites of white carbonate of lime. Like the gypsum, it was found overlying the red clay. On our route we passed four conical hills, from fifty to seventy feet high, and composed of-red clay, interstratified with dark- 170 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. colored porous sandstone. Observed no drift to-day. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 10.—Formation the same as on yesterday. Soil dark and fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 11.—Formation the same as before. July 12.—To-day we met with no gypsum. At about 9 o’clock we came to Otter creek; its bed is here, as well as elsewhere, composed of finely laminated sandstone, containing small circular spots of a greenish color. In many places this was covered to the depth of a few inches with drift and detritus. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 14.—Renewed the observations of May 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th. r July 15.—To-day we passed a number of the Witchita mountains, but observed neither in their composition nor general appearance any- thing different from what had been previously noticed. Near the base of one of them I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of sandstone, underlaid by red clay. The ground was in several places covered with loose fragments of gypsum, some of which were found to contain slight traces of copper. In one of the creeks I observed a small deposite of black ferruginous sand. Soil black and fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 16.—The only difference presented by the mountains seen to- day, from those previously observed, consisted in the greater number and size of the quartz veins; many of them were nearly perpendicular, and extended from near the base of the mountains to their summits; while others, pursuing a more or less serpentine course, frequently inter- sected each other at right-angles. The largest was highly ferruginous, presented a more or less cellular structure, and was nearly three feet wide. A few feet from the base of one of the mountains I observed a horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone of a yellowish color, and including in its composition small angular fragments of granite of the same character as that of the neighboring mountains. To-day I examined several of the head branches of Cache creek. Their beds were thickly strewn with large angular fragments of quartz, greenstone, and porphyry. In each of them I observed large quantities of black ferrnginous sand. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 17.—In a number of places the sandstone was exposed ; it did not differ in character and composition from that seen the day before. In one place the strata, still preserving their horizontal character, pre- sented abruptly to the side of a mountain. Many of the mountains presented a marked difference in character and composition from any that had been previously observed: instead of displaying a rough and APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. Ait: broken exterior, they were more or less rounded, and exhibited a gradual slope to the prairie-level, while the granitic structure almost entirely disappeared, its place being occupied by that of fine porphyry of a reddish color. Scattered over the prairie were observed a great many fragments of granite, greenstone porphyry, and quartz. The beds of the different creeks were in many places covered with black ferruginous sand, as well as large fragments of quartz, porphyry, and hornblende. Soil black and very fertile; subsoil argillaceous. July 18.—The mountains presented the same appearance and struc- ture as on yesterday. At about 8 o’clock we arrived at Cache creek; its bed was thickly strewn with black ferruginous sand and large frag- ments of igneous rock. From the water’s edge rose abruptly a long line of smooth perpendicular cliffs, varying in height from three to four hundred feet, and having in some places a slight columnar structure, (see Section No. 11.) Upon examination they were found to be com- posed mostly of fine porphyry of a reddish color, which was traversed by parallel and nearly perpendicular veins of cellular quartz, varying in thickness from two to three feet. Upon its exterior the quartz presented a deep iron-rust color; but when recently fractured, it exhibited various shades of gray and brown, together with small shining particles of sulphuret of iron. Soil fertile, and in some places three feet thick; subsoil argillaceous. July 19.—I spent the greater part of the day in exploring Cache creek. About one mile below our present encampment I came to the termination of the cliffs, A short distance below this I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone, fifty feet thick, and including in its composition fragments of igneous rock of the same character as that composing the cliffs; the intermediate space being occupied by red clay, which, as before, appeared to underlie the sandstone, (see Section No. 11.) July 20.—Two miles below our camp of last evening I observed a section composed of horizontal layers of gray sandstone, containing in its composition smal] fragments of igneous rock. Six miles from this we struck a seam of gypsum, varying in thickness from six to twelve inches. Soil fertile; subsoil composed of red and yellow elay. July 21.—During the day we met with frequent exposures. of the sandstone and gypsum. They presented, however, nothing different from what has already been described. Soil and subsoil the same as on yesterday. July 22.—Formation the same as on yesterday. July 23.—Did not move from camp. 172 APPENDIX D.—GEOLOGY. July 24.—The sandstone appears to be gradually becoming more abundant, while the red clay is less frequently observed than before. Saw no gypsum to-day. Soil fertile, and in some places six feet deep ; subsoil composed of yellow clay. July 25.—Passed a number of small conical hills composed of red clay, overlaid by sandstone. The latter was highly ferruginous, and contained nodular concretions of iron. Soil and subsoil the same as on yesterday. July 26.—Formation the same as before. July 2'7.—At about eight o’clock we came to an extensive outcrop of bluish-gray, non-fossiliferous limestone, which presented in many places a highly crystalline structure. Its relative position was found to be below that of the sandstone. Passed a number of hills, varying in height from one to two hundred feet, and composed of limestone, over- laid by finely laminated sandstone. Soil fertile; subsoil the same as before. July 28.—To-day the sandstone disappeared almost entirely, its place being occupied by limestone of nearly the same character as that en- countered yesterday. Soil and subsoil the same as before. July 29.—Remained in camp. July 30.—To-day we again observed the limestone in great abund- ance. It presented nothing different in character from that previously described. The sandstone and red clay were also in many places largely developed. Soil very fertile; subsoil the same as before. Started from camp at four o’clock in the afternoon. For the first few miles we found the sandstone largely developed ; after passing which, we came to an outcrop of limestone of the same character as that previously noticed. It presented itself even with the surface at an angle of thirty degrees, and was over a mile wide. Immediately beyond this we came to a deposite of coarse granite of a reddish color, and variously traversed by veins of quartz. This remarkable formation (as I have been informed) extends about twenty-six miles in an easterly and westerly direction, and is nearly six miles broad. Throughout its entire extent it is said to present the same character, and is everywhere surrounded by aqueous strata. I observed to-day in one of the creeks several boulders, composed of milky quartz; the largest was four feet in diameter. Soil and subsoil the same as before described. July 31.—Shortly after starting this morning we again struck the limestone formation, which continued to be largely developed during the remainder of the distance to Fort Washita. In it I observed a large number of the characteristie fossils of the cretaceous period. APP BND LX, b.. PALEONTOLOGY. DESCRIPTION OF THE SPECIES OF CARBONIFEROUS AND CRE- TACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED: BY B. F. SHUMARD, M. D. FOSSILS OF THE CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM. CRINOIDEA. CYATHOCRINUS GRANULIFERUS, Yandell and Shum., mss. PatzontTo.oey, Pl. —, fig. —. The collection contains a single pentagonal plate of this beautiful encrinite, a perfect specimen of which wé found several years since in the superior carboniferous strata near the summit of Muldrow’s Hill, in Kentucky. The costal plate from Arkansas exhibits granules regularly dispersed in rows over the surface, which radiate from the centre to the sides of the pentagon. It occurs in Washington county, Arkansas, in grayish earthy lime- stone, associated with Productus punctatus, Terebratula subtilita, and Spirifer striatus, AGASSIZOCRINUS DACTYLIFORMIS, Troost, mss. PatzonToxoey, Pl. 1, fig, 7. Cup conical, composed of three series of pieces; plates massive, smooth, moderately convex; column none; pelvis composed of five pieces, quadrangular, greatest width near the upper edges ; second series of pieces five, pentagonal, length and breadth about equal; length of pelvis three lines, greatest width five lines; length and breadth of second series of pieces about three lines, 174 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. We regret that the specimens of this crinoid from Arkansas are all imperfect, consisting only of detached portions of the cup. It is a fossil peculiar to the western and southwestern States, and eminently characteristic of the superior members of the carboniferous strata, occur- ring in some localities very abundantly. The genus is remarkable, from the fact of its being destitute of a column, in which respect it differs from all known carboniferous crinoids. In young individuals, the di- vision of the pelvis into five pieces is well marked; but in adult age they are usually firmly anchylosed, and often all traces of sutures are obliterated. In the centre of the pelvis we observe a small cylindrical tube running nearly its whole length, closed below, but communicating above with the cavity of the cup by a small opening. This structure, probably the nucleus of a column, is only visible when the plates are separated. It is associated with the preceding species, in the carboniferous beds of Washington county, Arkansas. PENTREMITES FLOREALIS, Say. Pentremites florealis, Say, 1820, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sciences, IV, 295. Pentatrematites florealis, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 33, taf. i. fig. 1—4, taf. u, fig. 8. This well-known species is quite common in Washington and Craw- ford counties, Arkansas. The specimens furnished by my brother are rather more globose than those from localities in Kentucky, Indiana, and Illinois. PENTREMITES SuLCATUS, F. Roemer. Pentatrematites sulcatus, F, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 34, taf. ii, fig. 10, a—c.—Zd. Lethaea Geognostica, taf. iv, fig. 8, a. b. We have some doubts as to whether this pentremite is entitled to rank as a distinct species, or whether it should be regarded as merely a variety of P. florealis, which varies considerably in different localities. The form under consideration has generally been referred to P. globosus, Say, by western geologists, from which, however, it is quite different. Mr. Say’s description of P. globosus was drawn from a specimen which was brought from Bath, England. It is associated with the preceding species in Washington county, Arkansas. APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 175 BRYOZOA. | ARCHIMEDIPORA ARCHIMEDES, Lesueur. Patzontotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 6. Retepora archimedes, Lesueur, 1842, Amer. Jour. Science, XLIII, 19, fig. 2. Archimedipora archimedes, D’Orbig. 1849, Prod. de Paleont. T, 102. A fossil peculiar to the carboniferous strata of the western and south- western States. The associate fossils are Pentremites florealis, Pro- ductus punctatus, Spirifer striatus, and Orthis Michelini. D’Orbigny, in his Prodrome de Palzontologie, cites this fossil from rocks of the Devonian period, in Kentucky. This is an error; we believe it has not been found lower in the series than the encrinital limestones which repose on the fine-grained micaceous sandstones of the knobs of Ken- tucky and Tennessee. It occurs in dark-grayish carboniferous limestone, in Washington county, Arkansas. BRACHIOPODA. Propuctus punctatus, Martin.* Patzontotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 5, and Pl. 2, fig. 1. This Productus has a wide geographical, as well as vertical, range in the United States; it is also widely distributed throughout Europe. In this country we find it commencing with the earliest carboniferous de- posites, and extending through all the limestones of this system to the coal measures. Figure 1 of plate 2 represents the ventral valve of a specimen from Washington county, Arkansas; and figure 5 of plate 2, an individual showing the hinge line and the form of the beak. *For synonyms and references, vide Koninck’s Monog. du Genre Productus et Chonetes, p. 123. 176 APPENDIX E.—PALAZONTOLOGY. Propuctus cora, D’Orbig. Prod. cora, D’Orbig., 1842, Paleont. Voy. dans l’Amer. Merid., p. 55, pl. 5, fig. 8, 9, 10. P. tenuistriatus, Verneuil, 1845, Geol. Russ. et. Ural., vol. 2, p. 260, pl. 16, fig. 6. ; P. cora, Koninck, 1847, Monog. du Genre Prod. et Chonetes, p. 50, pl. iv. a, b, et pl. v, fig. 2, a—d. The specimens from Arkansas are all imperfect, yet they are plainly referable to this species. It is one of the most characteristic fossils of the carboniferous beds of Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. It occurs in Washington and Crawford counties, in gray sub-crystalline limestone. Propuctus costatus, Sowerby.* Patzontoxoey, Pl. 1, fig. 2. This Productus occurs with the preceding species, in Washington county, Arkansas, and, like it, has a very extended geographical range in this country and Europe. TEREBRATULA SUBTILITA, Hall. Patzontooey, Pl. 4, fig. 8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall, Stansbury’s Expedition to Great Salt Lake, 409, pl. xi, fig. 1, a—b, 2, a—e. This shell is very common in the superior members of the carbonife- rous formation in Illinois, Indiana, and Kentucky, where it usually is found with Archimedipora archimedes, Pentremites florealis, and Pro- ductus punctatus. Its vertical range being rather limited, it constitutes one of our most useful guides in studying the relative position of the various members of the carboniferous strata. This shell is very variable in its characters, so that we are liable to multiply species from its varie- ties, unless a number of specimens are under examination. Some indi- viduals are very much inflated; the dorsal valve exhibits a profound * For synonyms and references see Koninck’s Monog. du Gen. Prod. et Cho- netes, p. 92. APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 177 sinus, and the ventral valve a correspondingly elevated ridge. Others are depressed, with scarcely any sinus or bourrelet. The specimens I have seen from Arkansas are considerably mutilated. Occurs in Wash- ington county. TEREBRATULA MARCY1, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 4, a, b. Shell small, ovate, elongate, moderately convex, sides and front neatly rounded ; dorsal valve regularly convex, rather more gibbous than the opposite valve, greatest height near the beak, no traces of sinus; beak elongated, elevated incurved, no perforation visible in our specimens ; ventral valve without median ridge, pointed at summit, cardinal border slightly sinuous. Surface of each valve marked with from thirty-four to thirty-eight simple rounded striz, which commence at the beak and proceed to the lateral borders and front with division. In general form it resembles 7’. serpentina of Koninck, (Descr. des Animaux fossiles, 29, pl. xix, fig. 8, a—e,) but its smaller size and the lesser number of striz will serve to distinguish it, It occurs with Terebratula subtiita and Productus punctatus in Washington and Crawford counties, Arkansas, in dark-grayish carbon- iferous limestone. We have found the same species in Floyd county, Indiana. ~ SPrirIFER, (indet.) Patzontotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 3. In the collection from Washington county are several casts of a spirifer like that which we have figured. They are all too imperfect for description. 12 178 APPENDIX E.——-PALHONTOLOGY. FOSSILS OF THE CRETACEOUS PERIOD. MOLLUSCA. PECTEN QUADRICOSTATUS, Sowerby. Patxonroxoey, Pl. 3, fig. 6, and Plo—, fig. —.=) 2 Janira quadricostata, D’Orbig. Pal. Frang., III, 644, pl. cccexlvii, fig. 1—7. Pecten quadricostatus, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 64, taf. vii, fig. 4, a—c. Shell sub-ovate, angulated, convexo-concave. Inferior valve convex, with prominent rounded radiating ribs, crossed by five concentric thread- like striz. Ribs from fifteen to seventeen, of which five are more prom- inent than the others; smaller ribs disposed in pairs in the intervals between the larger ones. Superior valve slightly concave, with radiating unequal ribs. As we have not been able to consult Sowerby’s description of Pecten quadricostatus, we refer our fossil to this species on the authority of Dr. F. Roemer, whose figures and descriptions of specimens from Fredericks- burg, Texas, correspond very accurately with those we figure from For Washita. Figure 6 of plate 3 represents the inferior valve of a large individual from Fort Washita, and figure — of plate — the superior valve of a smaller specimen. ExoGyRA PONDEROSA, Roemer. EHxogyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, 1849, Texas, 394. Ostrea ponderosa, D’Orbig., 1850, Prod. de Palont., IT, 256. Haxogyra ponderosa, ¥. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 71, taf. ix, fig. 2, a—b. Shell thick, ovate, sub-cuneiform ; large valve gibbous, obtusely cari- nated, surface marked with imbricating lamelle; small valve rather thin, sub-concave, surface uneven, concentrically laminated. Occurs rather abundantly at Fort Washita, generally in a fine state of preserva- tion. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels, Texas. APPENDIX E -——PALZONTOLOGY. 179 GrypHa=a Pircuert, Morton, PaLzontToxoey, Pl. 6, fig. 5. Gryphea Piichert, Morton, Synops. Cretaceous Group, 55, Pl. xv, fig. 9 Ostrea vesicularis, D’Orbig. Prod. de Paleont. II, 256, (pars.) Gryphea Pitchert, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 73, taf. ix, fig. 1, a—e. Shell ovate, thick, gibbous, irregular; inferior valve boat-shaped, inflated, divided into two unequal lobes by a longitudinal furrow, which begins at the umbo and runs the whole length of the shell; ambo large, elongate, incurved and slightly compressed laterally. Su- perior valve irregular, sub-oval, nearly plane, marked with concentric imbricating lamella. Occurs in great numbers in the cretaceous clays at Fort Washita, and more sparingly at Cross Timbers, Texas. Dr. Morton’s specimens were obtained from the plains of Kiamesha, Arkan- sas, and Dr. F. Roemer found it quite common near New Braunfels, Texas, Exoeyra Trexana, Roemer. PaLzon Totoey, Pl. 5, fig. 1, a—b, and fig. 5. Hzegyra Texana, F, Roemer, Texas, 396. Ostrea matheroniana, ( pars) D’Orbigny, Prod. de Palzont. Tl, 255. EHxogyra Boussingaultii, Conrad’s Geolog. Report of Tynehts Expe- dition to Red Sea, 213, pl. i, fig. 9, pl. ii, fig. 10 and 11. Huogyra Texana, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 69, taf. x, fig. 1, a—e. The specimens of this shell in the colléction were obtained by Dr. G. G. Shumard, at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. They vary very much in their characters, scarcely any two examples being alike. In some the shell is quite thin, in others massive; some exhibit promi- nent rugose ribs, while in others the ribs are but slightly elevated and nodulose. According te Dr. Roemer, this Hxogyra characterizes the cretaceous deposites near Fredericksburg and New Braunfels, Texas. Mr. Conrad figures a shell from Syria, which he refers to Hxogyra Boussingauliz, D’Orbig., and which appears to be identical with the species under consideration. OstREA SUBOVATA, Shumard. Patzontoreey, Pl. 5, fig. 2. Sub-ovate, trigonal, elongate, massive; inferior valve irregularly con- vex, inflated, thick, umbo obtusely angulated, somewhat prominent ; 180 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. ribs four or five, longitudinal, irregular, rounded, nodulose; surface marked with concentric imbricating lamellz; superior valve rather thin, ovate, nearly plane, slightly convex near the peak, surface with four or five well marked longitudinal undulating sulci. Tt occurs at Fort Washita with Gryphea Pitchert and Ammonzies vespertinus. It appears to be quite rare, the specimen figured being the only one furnished by the expedition. INOCERAMUS CONFERTIM-ANNULATUS, Roemer. Patzontotoey, Plate 6, fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, F, Roemer, Texas, 402. Kreidebild. Texas, 59, taf. vil, fig. 4. Shell ovate, depressed with close concentric undulating ribs; ribs prominent, rounded, regular, intervals about equal to width of ribs. I refer this fossil to the above species with some hesitation, as all the specimens of the collection are either weather-worn or badly mutilated. Nevertheless, if not identical, ours is a closely allied species. Occurs rather abundantly at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr. F. Roe- mer’s specimens are from the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels. TRIGONIA CRENULATA, Lamarck. ParzonToroey, Pl. 4, fig. 1. Trigonia crenulata, Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas, 51, taf. vii, fig. 6. Shell trigonal, thick, with from fourteen to fifteen oblique erenulated ribs in each valve; anterior side wide, rounded, inflated; posterior side produced, compressed; inferior margin rounded. From Cross-Timbers, Texas. All the examples in the collection are internal casts. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels. ASTARTE WASHITENSIS, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 3, fig. 3. Shell ovate, trigonal, a little longer than wide, compressed, inequi- lateral, marked with fine concentric rounded striz; buccal side shorter than the anal, excavated; basal margin rounded, truncated posteriorly, beaks slightly prominent, excavated. te APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 181 The only specimen of this species collected by the expedition is rather too imperfect to permit us to make a satisfactory description. It was found in the cretaceous strata at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. CaARDIUM MULTISTRIATUM, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 2. Shell sub-rotund, inflated, length and breadth nearly equal, truncated posteriorly, basal and anterior margins rounded; surface of posterior sub-margin with from fourteen to fifteen regular radiating strie ; remain- der of surface marked with fine, equal, rounded, close, concentric striz. Beaks rather prominent. ; This is a neat, pretty species; and it is to be regretted that the speci- mens collected were not in a better state of preservation. It was found at encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas, where it is rather un- common. Panop#a TExANA, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 6, fig. 1. Shell oval, elongate, inflated anteriorly, compressed behind, beaks moderately prominent, basal edge rounded, buccal extremity wide, rounded; surface marked with irregular concentric slightly elevated ribs. Length about 2 5-10 inches, breadth 1 4-10 inch, thickness 1-10 inch. The only specimen of this species brought home by the expedition is an imperfect cast. Locality, encampment No, 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. TEREBRATULA CHOCTAWENSIS, Shumard. PatxonTotoey, Pl. 2, fig. a, b. Shell sub-globose, inflated, sub-pentagonal, front slightly truncated surface minutely punctate, the puncti only visible when examined through a strong lens; dorsal valve most inflated ; beak obtuse, recurved, pierced by an oval aperture; area distinct, forming a well defined ob- tuse angle; ventral valve moderately convex, sub-orbicular. Length 9 lines, width 8 lines, thickness 63 lines. 182 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. It resembles Terebratula wacoensis, (F. Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas, 81, taf. vi, fig. 2, a-c,) but differs in the character of the surface, which in 7. Choctawensis is thickly studded over with minute puncta. It is also a smaller species; the area is not so wide comparatively, and the front is not so broadly truncate. This beautiful Terebratula was obtained from the cretaceous deposites near Fort Washita, where it is quite rare, a single specimen only having been found. Gioziconcua (TrLostoma) TumipA, Shumard. PatzonTotoey, PI. 5, fig. 3. Shell ovate-globose, spire pyramidal, volutions about six, whorls mod- erately convex; width of body whorl equal to about one half the length of the shell. Length 1 7-10 inch, width 1 3-10 inch. All the specimens we have seen are badly preserved internal casts. Occurs at Cross-Timbers, Texas, in cretaceous limestone. Giopiconcua (?) ELEvATA, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 4. Shell ovate, spire produced, whorls six regularly convex, body whorl shorter than spire. Length 1 5-10 inch, breadth 1 inch. This is likewise an internal cast. It occurs with the preceding species. Evuuma (?) suprusirormis, Shumard. Patzontoroey, Pl. 4, fig. 3. Shell subfusiform, elongate smooth, spire produced, regularly conical ; whorls about six, broad, very slightly convex; suture rather shallow, linear, aperture simple, sub-ovate; body whorl obtusely angulated. Length 2 8-10 inches, width 1 1-10 inch. The collection contains only a single specimen of the cast of this species, and that badly weather-worn. It was found at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 183 AwMoNITES VESPERTINUS, Morton. Ammonites vespertinus, Morton, Synopsis Cretaceous Group U. 6&., 40, pl. xvii, fig. 1. Jd., D’Orbigny, Prodrome de Palzont. II, 212, Shell large, volutions about three; vertical section sub-quadrangular ; ribs prominent, each garnished with three nodules, dorsal one most prominent; dorsal margin furnished with a prominent rounded carina. This is the largest species of Ammonite that has hitherto been found in the United States. In the cretaceous strata near Fort Washita, specimens were found to measure nearly three feet in diameter, and estimated to weigh upwards of two hundred pounds. It is quite com- mon. The fragment described by Dr. Morton was obtained from the plains of Kiamesha, Arkansas. AMMONITES MARCIANA, Shumard. Patzontotoey, Pl. 4, fig. 5. Shell compressed, not carinated, with about twelve simple, prominent rounded ribs, which cross the dorsum and sides of the last volution obliquely, without interruption; dorsum convex, whorls compressed; surface smooth in the intervals between the ribs; aperture longitudinal, sub-oval. Length of last whorl 11 lines, width of do. 44 lines; width of umbi- licus 8 lines. x The specimen figured is a cast, and the character of the lobes of the chambers cannot be made out. Occurs in the cretaceous strata of Cross-Timbers, Texas. AMMONITES ACUTO-cARINATUS, Shumard. PatzonTotoey, Pl. 1, fig. 3. Shell much compressed, sharply carinated, ornamented with from 30 to 34 transverse ribs; ribs simple, distinctly elevated, flexuous, commen- cing narrow at the umbilicus, and widening to within a short distance of the dorsal border, where they are again somewhat contracted; dorsal carina prominent, sharp, smooth, marked on each side by a shallow depression ; aperture elongate-cordate, lateral septa trilobate. Diameter 2 4-10 inches; thickness of last whorl near aperture 5-10 inch. 184 APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. Occurs rather abundantly with the preceding species at Cross Timbers, Texas. Ammonites—(undetermined.) Patmontotoey, Pl. —, fig. —. Several specimens of a small variety of ammonite, such as is repre- sented in the figure, were found with the two last-described species, but they are too imperfect for satisfactory description. ECHINODERMATA. HeEMIASTER ELEGANS, Shumard. PatzonTotoey, Pl. 2, fig. 4, a, b, e. Shell ovate orbicular, moderately convex at summit, broadly emargi- nate anteriorly; anal extremity truncated almost vertically, very slightly excavated; ambulacra sub-petalloid, broad, situated in shallow depres- sions, antero-lateral areas widely divergent, extending to the margin of the test, postero-lateral areas much less divergent and short, peripetalous fasciole indistinct; mouth transverse reniform, not far from the anterior border, post oral tuberculated space lanceolate; anus oval longitudinal, sub anal fasciole scarcely visible; surface of test covered with small spinigerous tubercles, with minute granule in the interspaces. The dimensions of the largest specimen that I have been permitted to ex- amine are as follows: length, 2 7-10 inches; greatest width, 2 5-10 inches; height, 1 5-10 inch. This exceedingly elegant species occurs in great numbers in the cre- taceous strata at Fort Washita. Ho.aster simplex, Shumard. PatzxontoLoey, Pl. 3, fig. 2. Shell ovate, sub-cordate, gibbous, regularly rounded superiorly, most prominent near apex, which is sub-central, declining at first gently to- wards the mouth, then abruptly, truncated posteriorly, with a thread-like carina leading from the apex to the anus; oral sinus shallow, rounded ; APPENDIX E.—PALZONTOLOGY. 185 ambulacra flexuous, extending to the base, increasing gradually in width to the inferior margin; antero-lateral are as widely divergent ; postero- laterals separated by a moderate interval, mouth transverse, oval; anus aval, longitudinal sub-anal fasciole indistinct; surface of test sparingly studded with spinigerous tubercles, with numerous microscopic granules in the interspaces. It approaches Holaster (Ananchytes) jimbriatus, Morton, (Silliman’s Journal, XVIII, 245, pl. 3, fig. 9.) Our speci- mens, however, differ from the figures given by Dr. Morton in being less orbicular in the oral sinus, which is not so profound, and in the anal border, which is more widely truncated Occurs with Hemiaster elegans at Fort Washita. Ho.ectypus PLANATUS, Roemer. Holectypus planatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 393. bid, Kreidebild, Texas, 84, taf. x, fig. 2, a—g. In the collection from Cross-Timbers, Texas, we find several mutilated specimens of Holectypus, which we refer without doubt to the above species. Dr. Roemer’s examples were obtained from the vicinity of Fredericksburg, Texas. APPENDIX F. ZOOLOGY. MAMMALS, BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY. Ursus Americanvs, Pall. Black bear. Throughout the valley. Procyon toror, L. Raccoon. Throughout the valley. Mepniris mxsoueuca, (?) Licht. Texan skunk. Throughout the valley. Lurra canapensts, Sabine. Otter. Throughout the valley. Bassaris astura. Licht. Civet cat. Cross-Timbers. Canis occieNrauis, Rich. Gray wolf. Above Shreveport. CANIS LATRANS. Prairie wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. Canis Large Lobos wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. Vutpes FuLvus. Red Fox. Red river valley. Lynx rurus. Wildcat. Red river valley. FeE.is concotor, L. Panther. Red river valley. Sciurus MAGuicaupatvs, (?) Say. Fox-squirrel. Red river valley. Tamias quaprivirratus, Say. Striped squirrel. Above Cross-Tim- bers. Preromys votucerra, Gm. Flying-squirrel. Red river valley. Casror FipeR, L. Beaver. Above Cross-Timbers. Lepus sytvaticus, Bach. Rabbit. Red river valley. Lervus cALLoris, (?) Wagl. Jackass rabbit. Above Cross-Timbers. APPENDIX F.—MAMMALS. 187 Lepus Artemisia (?) Small prairie rabbit. Above Cross-Timbers. SPERMOPHILUS LuDOvicrANUS, Ord. Prairie-dog. Above Cross-Tim- bers. Dwe.ruys Vireintana, Shaw. Opossum. Red river valley. Cervus Vireiniana, Penn. Deer. Red river valley. Cervus canapensis. Elk; only about Witchita mountains. Awntitocapra AmERIcANA, Ord. Antelope. Above Cross-Timbers. Bos Americanus, L. Above Cache creek, 188 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. REPTILES. BY 8. F. BAIRD AND C. GIRARD. SERPENTS. The serpents collected by Captains Marcy and McClellan belong to ten species, distributed into eight genera. Several of these species had previously been received from other sections of the country; three, however, were first collected during the expedition. All are here figured for the first time, except Ophibolus Sayi, of which a hitherto undescribed variety is represented. I CROTALUS, Linn. This genus is characterized by its erectile poison fangs, and by having the upper surface of the head covered with small plates resem- bling the scales on the body, and with only a few larger ones in front. There is a deep pit between the eyes and the nostrils. The plates under the tail are undivided, and the tail is terminated by a rattle. Scales carinated. 1, CRoTALUS CONFLUENTUS, Say. ZooLoey, Pl. 1. Spec. cuar.—Head subtriangular. Plates on top of head squami- form, irregular, angulated, and imbricated ; scales between supercilia- ries small, numerous, uniform. Four rowes of scales between the sub- orbital series (which only extends to the centre of the orbit) and the labials. Labials 15 or 18, nearly uniform. — Dorsal series 27-29. Dorsal blotches quadrate, concave before and behind; intervals greater behind. Spots transversely quadrate posteriorly, ultimately becoming 10 or 12 half rings. Two transverse lines on superciliaries, enclosing about one-third. Stripe from superciliary to angle of jaws, crosses angle of the mouth on the second row above labial. Rostral margined with lighter. APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. _ 189 Syn.— Crotalus confluentus, Say, in Long’s Exped. Rocky Mts. UJ, 1823, 48. B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 8. C. Leconte, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 1851, 180. Description.—This species bears a considerable resemblance to C. atrox, but the body is more slender and compact. Scales on the top of the head anterior to the superciliaries nearly uniform in size. Line of scales across from one nostril to the other consists of six, not four as in C. atroz. Superciliaries more prominent. Labial series much smaller. Upper anterior orbitals much smaller, as also is the anterior nasal. Scales on the top of the head less carinated. Scales between superciliaries smaller and more numerous, five or six in number instead of four. Two lateral rows of scales smooth; first, second, and third gradually increasing in size. Scales more linear than in C- atrow. General color yellowish brown, with a series of subquadrate dark blotches, with the corners rounded and the anterior and posterior sides frequently concave, the exterior convex. These blotches are ten or eleven scales wide and four or five long, lighter in the centre, and mar- gined for one-third of a scale with light yellowish. The intervals along the back light brown, darker than the margins of the blotches. Ante- riorly the interval between the dark spots is but a single scale; poste- riorly it is more, becoming sometimes two scales; where also the spots are more rhomboidal or lozenge-shaped; nearer the tail, however, they become transversely quadrate. The fundamental theory of coloration might be likened to that of Crotalus adamanteus, viz: of forty or fifty light lines decussating each other from opposite sides; but the angles of decussation, instead of being acute, are obtuse, and truncated or rounded off throughout. Along the third, fourth, and fifth lateral rows of scales is a series of indistinct brown blotches covering a space of about four scales, and falling opposite to the dorsal blotches: be- tween these blotches, and opposite to the intervals of the dorsal blotches, are others less distinct. Along the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth rows is a second series of obsolete blotches, each covering a space of about four scales, and just opposite the intervals between the dorsal spots. The dorsal and lower series are separated by an interval of three scales, this interval light brown. Beneath, the color is dull yel- lowish, and ten or twelve darker half rings are visible on the tail. In point of coloration the principal features, as compared with C, atrot, lie in the disposition of the dorsal blotches in subquadrate spots instead of subrhomboids; the intervals thus forming bands across the back perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. ‘This tendency to assume 190 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. the subquadrangular pattern has broken up the chain-work into isolated portions, as in Ophibolus eximius or Crotalophorus tergeminus, The intervals of the dorsal blotches are wide and darker in the middle, while in C. atrox they are narrow, not linear, and unicolor. The sides of the head present the usual light stripe from the posterior extremity of the superciliary ; it passes, however, to the angle of the jaw on the neck, along the second row of scales above the labials. A second stripe passes in front of the eye to the labials, widening there. A small light vertical bar is seen below the pit, and another on the outer edge of the rostral. On the superciliaries are two light transverse lines enclosing a space nearly one-third of the whole surface. In C. atroz there is a single median line. Sometimes, as in C. atrox, the single blotches on the nape are replaced by two elongated ones parallel to each other. Dorsal row of scales, 29; abdominal scutelle, 180; subcaudal ones, 27. Total length, 34 inches; length of tail, 4 inches. A specimen was collected the 5th of June in the Witchita mount- ains. Another specimen of the same species was brought home from the Cross-Timbers, Arkansas, by Dr. S. W. Woodhouse, and described by Dr. Hallowell as new, under the name of Crotalus Leconte, on the ground that the anterior vertebral spots are not confluent. This we do not consider as a sufficiently distinctive character, although we have never seen a specimen with decidedly confluent markings. The notes of Dr. Leconte, quoted by Dr. Hallowell, hardly apply to the present species. The species was first discovered by Say, on Major Long’s expedition to the Rocky mountains, and has not since been seen until procured first by Dr. Woodhouse, and then by Captain Marcy and the Mexican boundary commission. It was found by the latter party in Western Texas, where, however, it is rare. Plate I represents Crotalus confluentus of natural size. IL EUTANIA, B. & G. This genus is composed of numerous species, some of them quite common, and known under the names of Riband, Striped, and Garter snakes; inoffensive, like most of the North American snakes. They mvy be recognised by three light stripes on a darker ground, the inter- vals between these stripes provided with alternating or tessellated APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. LOL blackish spots. The scales have a ridge or small keel along their mid- dle, and are arranged in 19 or 21 longitudinal rows. The postabdom- inal or anal scutella is entire, like the others. There is one anterior orbital plate and three posterior. The body is either moderately stout or else slender, according to the species. Of the two described in this article, one belongs to the division with a slender body and 19 dorsal rows of scales, and the other to the second division, with a stouter body and 21 dorsal rows of scales. . ’ 9, Euranta proxi, B. & G. Zoooey, PI. IL. Spec. cHar.—Body stoutest of the division. Black above; three longitudinal stripes, the dorsal ochraceous yellow or brown, lateral greenish white or yellow. Total length about three and a half times that of the tail. Syn.— Coluber proximus, Say, in Long’s Expd. to Rock. Mts. I, 1823, 187.—Harl., Journ. Acad. Nat. Se. Philad. V, 1827, 353. Hutainia prozima, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. ease 25: Dersc.—Deep brown, almost black, above and on the sides; beneath greenish white. Dorsal stripe on one and two half rows of scales, ochraceous yellow, lateral stripe on the 3d and 4th rows of scales, green- ish yellow or white, markedly different in tint from the dorsal. Sides of abdominal scutellz, and 1st and 2d dorsal series, of the same color as the back. On stretching the skin, numerous short white lines are visible. Occipital plates with two small approximated spots on the line of jupnc- tion. Orbitals whitish. The greenish white of the abdomen becomes more yellow anteriorly. ~ Head more like that of 2. sewrita than of #. Faireyz, while the body is stouter than in either. The subcaudal scales are less numerous than in the other two allied species. Resembling #. Fazreyi in color, it is always distinguishable by the stouter body, fewer caudal scales, and dissimilarity of color in the longitudinal stripes. Dorsal rows of scales 19, all keeled; abdominal scutellee 170; sub- caudal ones 100. Total length 33 inches; length of tail 9 inches. Found at Camp No. 7. The species is represented in natural size on Plate II. 192 APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 3. Eur/nta Marciana, B. & G. Zoouoeyx, Pl. II. Sprc. cHAR.—Prominent color light brown; a vertebral paler line and one lateral on each side, more or less indistinct. Three series of square black spots on each side, of about 56-60 in each series, from occiput to anus. Sides of head black, with a crescentic patch of yel- lowish posterior to the labial plates. Three and sometimes four black vittze radiating from the eye across the jaws. A double white spot with a black margin on the suture of occipital plates. Syvn.— Hutainia marciana, B. and G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 36. Dersc.—The markings about the head are generally very constant and distinct. Viewed laterally, we see first the large dark-brown patch — at the back part of the head, extending as far back as the posterior ex- tremity of the jawbones. In the anterior part of this patch is seen the crescentic patch (concave before) of yellowish white, with a more or less narrow dark-brown margin anteriorly. The next black band starts from the posterior edge of the superciliaries, and passes obliquely downwards and backwards along the posterior edge of the 6th upper labial. Sim- ilar black margins are seen on the posterior edges of the 5th and 4th labials, the intervening spaces being yellowish white, particularly on the 5th upper labial. Occasionally the posterior margins of the 7th and 3d labials have the black line as well as those mentioned, which fre- quently extend across to the posterior margins of the corresponding lower labials. The white spot on the anterior portion of the occipital suture is always margined with black. The six series of black spots are arranged so as to alternate with each other. The lower or third series on each side is below the indistinct lateral stripe. The posterior edge of each abdominal scutella shows a black margined spot on each side. The dorsal line is generally a single scale in width, occasionally including portions of the lateral, and itself sometimes encroached upon by the black spots. Each spot is about a scale or a scale and a half long, and about three scales broad. The number in the dorsal series from the head to the anus varies from 56 to 60. Posterior edges of scales very slightly emarginate, if at all. All are decidedly keeled. Dorsal scales disposed in 21 rows; abdominal scutellz, 1525 sub- caudal, 75. Total length 34 inches; length of tail, 8 inches. Collected between Camp 5 and Red river, on the open prairie. This species is very widely distributed in the south and west. Red river forms its limit on the north, and the Gulf of Mexico on the east; APPENDIX F.—REPTILES. 193 but it extends to the Rocky mountains on the west, and far into Mexico on the south. Its centre of distribution appears to be on the lower Rio Grande. Plate III represents this species in natural size. Ill. HETERODON, Pal. de B, _ This genus is eminently characterized by the peculiarity of its snout, which is terminated by a triangular plate recurved upwards ; hence the popular appellation of hog-nosesnake. Though perfectly harmless, they -exhibit a threatening appearance, when approached, in the flattening of their head and violent hissings; hence the names of blowing-viper, spreading-adder, &c. Their body is short, stout, and the tail also short. The head is broad and short. The dorsal scales are carinated, and ar- ranged in 23-27 rows. The preanal or postabdominal scutella is bifid ; a chain of small plates beneath the eye, completed above by the super- ciliaries. There is a supplementary plate on the top of the head, be- hind the prominent rostral, either in contact with the frontals, or sepa- rated by smaller plates. The colors are light, with dorsal and lateral darker blotches, or else brown, with dorsal transverse light bars; some- times entirely black. One species only was collected on the Red River exploration. Six species are known to exist in the United States. 4, Hereropon nasicus, B. & G. Zoonoey, Pl. LV. Spec. cuar.—Vertical plate broader than long. Rostral excessively broad and high. Azygos plate surrounded behind and on the sides by many small plates (12-15.) A second loral. lLabials short and exces- sively high. Dorsal rows of scales 23, exterior alone smooth. eecin)-eleereter 44 Porphyritic greenstone.-....---- 146 || River terraces...2-2-.-.2--.--.- 90 PPontulacaced@. ac c\icisas aeenia/sicie= 249 || Rock bed of river..--.-.-------- 54 ROC IUN a ceil ctaeiniaieleremieietereters QOS PROCKURAlt seems alenie alse ciee erences 91 Prairie; dogs 2 eso cece AS AGNS OI \GROSACed acme see cen etnies eee 953 Prairie-dog towns...~ SuBSH Gonoco AGI WRublacecs scsi se sacar 259 Presents distributed.....-..----- iS} PRudbeckia sso.) sceeeeecee 256 RESCOM Se ries ee oa sieeleecine ere SON Rudbecktases eee cee en eee 256 Preston arrival ‘atesscescss owes OuWRUSHICrECK. cacine sk eelseaee eee 80 Primwlacew\y.s cece csiee ces 262 Prisoners, release of..---..------ 79 Prisoners, Mexican..---.------- 79 | 5. PPLNOCY ON aes eeirel ee eeianeiccieis: 186 | i WrOdUChUSe: sesso ces ee eee 175, 176 Sabbatia.----------+---+-2----- 259 Prunus chicasa....--------.---- 19, Safe return...--.--+.----+------ 82 Psammophis SS Rie ala SR Ra cee Adit) 901 Sagacity of Indians....----.----- 32 Pseudoscorpionide --..-.-------- Q41 | San Diego...--------+----+----- 116 PROT ALS A et ee ene ans RI) 951 | Sand-hills wee wowe cee ewns ceeewe 16, 90 oT Prey (SVS ea ee a Sa OTR AC 950 | Sandy Creek ssescscceel sete 39 WAETONIY Sees eC oon oe Gane 196 | Salt Pork-..----.---------+---- 21 Pupa muscorum ....+.s2---+ 00+ gg || Salt, incrustation of...--....--.- 35 AO Cater ee es 64 || Salt springs.....----------+----- 181 Pyrrhopappus ..--2+ssecuscocees 957 | Salt plains not at head of Red river 42 Sanguisorba..---...---.--22-- 253, 271 Santalacewsssssshseoccsesoeeees 262 Q. Sapindacerseeas sec ceosecoemee 250 Sapinduseais sas see)isteteeetseeiaes 250 Quapaws SEAR RI ORE Tore Ten 28 Sceleporuseeic22- sas ssecseceee 207 Quer CNS eee ener teens ze8 Scenery, magnificent... .--.-... 55 Quercus macrocarpa------------ Bi} g Chania 953 iCkSanGi nse ae uae Sys oe ee 7, 29 TONeNa oars og) ga Quicksand a orinec ae eece Q Schrankia angustata........----- 44 Scillan tee ce cee eee ee 266 R. Scincus!i2ss2222 sie seskhieeeese 212 Seinrssi ss 4.540 os ees 186 Ratt of Red river-s-c2-s2ecaccee 84 || Scolopendra j2522- 22sec saaee 243 Railroad, best route for....-..- TV0}112 |iSeoriase 2: se2seh ese asco eeeeeee 146 Railroad, general considerations __ || Scorpio........---....---..---- 238 MESPECHIEN sea scsse acts ee Sees 109 || Scorpions ...... Jdeccenneesheeee 238 1 Beta pe 138, 14, 15, 65 || Scorpionide .......---.--------- 238 Rains, times of occurrence....--. 42 || Scotophis ---. .---2..sco--ecean- 197 Rana ee seas see eee eee waisaes 214 || Scrophulariacew...-....---- -=-- 260 INDEX. 285 Page. Page Scutellaria ...--.----- Seoul 56a0 261 || Temperature of water..-..----- 8, 162 Scurvy .--------- e220 --2- 36, 44, 68|| Terebratula ..----.------ 176, 177, 181 Scyphia....--.--------+--++--+ 145 || Terraces of river.....-..------- 35 Sections, geological....-------- -- 159)| Tertiary coal..---.-...-.-------- 144 Slat. do odadgocnse condesoeces 164 || Teucrium...-.....---.----.---- 261 Septaria...--- -.-.---++----e9-° TISts | Wain 0 SSE BEGS Saceee Boek Gone 261 Serpents....---.---------0+---- 188 || Thelyphonus .........---..----- 236 SIE ob 6685 6 soon oeoneoooeEe 969 || Thestum ..---- .2e-00------- -o- 262 Selly o cécocueaadsosde odonecus SOA hirstiscumecocwssue mace sents 53, 54 Shepard, Prof. C. U., letter from. 135 || Tiliqua...-------------------++- 212 Shortest route to Pacific...---. -- 115 || Tillable land on Red river..----- 86 SICVOMIM <2 o< J Fogo ie WGA eos pat at Bia fa 2 ek fr SON st ea et Ca ‘faNchole iso) allen las) alee foal cies) N° VL Lith by Lawrence 86 Jolm Soy ‘ N° VIE Lith byH Lawrence 86 John ScN1 18) OURUDE UE. OME TN Talis AIO! Nah S) SE IAOZNIE OY: tf Aon awherecr emia Pearson Tr SS Ae ie Johns: 6 Litth by HL awxrence 8 AH-QUE-HO-NO THW NEAR THE HEAD OF THE Ki-CHE 7 GHATH-GaHa FOCVEH YUVEN MAIA NSS yor gg s9uermey ho ET ‘60 5 Sioa as re SNS eis N°l0. See RS Lith byLawrence 86 John So HEAD OF KE-CHEAH QUE HO-NO OR THE MAIN BRANCH OF RED-RIVER. MAMA) THSVO NO NIVINONON dvab TNS BML gg comermne y HAG EET Tron Nola. 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