2 ges el EEE 6"4 #: ise PEARL zs URE: SARTRE AIS I TATE T EOE BS ESE TE RY ei ve eo er arerageming ac fy ween VeR ute Fam mig OF sy we d a PLIES NADAS PIN 3 geese eee ES Le meeps . ty wait | rake is sate. = tt tt FEARS: ERE SESERMLLLS T ETE sa FARM AND HOUSEHOLD CYCLOP ALD#BA. A COMPLETE READY REFERENCE LIBRARY FOR FARMERS, GARDENERS, FRUIT GROWERS, STOCKMEN AND HOUSEKEEPERS, CONTAINING A LARGE FUND OF USEFUL INFORMATION, FACTS, HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS, IN THE VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS OF AGRICULTURE, HORTICULTURE, LIVE STOCK RAISING, POULTRY KEEPING, BEE KEEPING, DAIRY FARMING, FERTILIZERS, RURAL ARCHITECTURE, FARM IMPLEMENTS, HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT, DOMESTIC AFFAIRS, COOKERY, LADIES’ FANCY WORK, FLORICULTURE, MEDICAL MATTERS, Etc; £te. WITH TWO HUNDRED AND FORTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS. NEw YorK: F. M. LUPTON, PUBLISHER, No, 63 Murray Sr. 1885. PREFACE. Tue purpose of this volume is to supply a ready reference library of use- ful facts and suggestions for farmers and housekeepers. Within the pre- scribed limits of the work it would be impossible to present the fullest _ details of agricultural and kindred sciences, hence the author has deemed ~ it politic to deal mainly with the more practical relations of agriculture and - domestic affairs. Such matters as are self-evident and well understood by _ every practical agriculturist—as for instance the details of the cultivation of - the commoner farm producis—it has been thought wise to treat upon but T beat meee anardeed citgge 2 asermenbe gested yt in all branches of agriculture. The object of the work is hace she farmer and the housewife that which they already know, but - to present to them valuable information which it is believed cannot fail to be of material assistance in rural homes. .. “In the preparation of the work great care has been taken and no pains have been spared to make it complete in every detail. Consultation of the _ best authorities insures its reliability, and it is believed that it will be found _ invaluable by all who become possessed of it, and that it will prove one of _ those exceptional books which are prized more highly by reason of age and _ constant association; for it will doubtless be consulted almost daily in the "course of rural and household affairs. There is hardly a day in a farmer's life but that some problem arises not easy of solution without a reliable treatise of this kind to consult. Such a want it is the purpcse of this volume _ tosupply. The author is well aware that the masses of agriculturists have _ but little money to waste upon luxuries of any kind, and he is equally con- fident that the purchase of this book, far from being a waste of his hard earnings, will prove one of the most profitable of investments. Its perusal will develop new ideas, new methods and new theories in every branch of _ farm labor of incalculable value, and the household department will be _ found equally as serviceable to the farmer’s wife as will the agricultural de- : partment to the farmer. ___ In the compilation of the work we have been largely indebted to the _ leading agricultural journals of this country and Europe, as well as to many standard works upon agricultural and household topics. Access to exte 1- _Bive files of the former could alone insure completeness in a work of tl is kind. Entire originality, therefore, we do not claim. We maintain, ho y- _ ever, that we have succeeded in producing a work of far greater value th in _ any exclusively original production could possibly be, for we present her dn _ the views of nearly all the ablest writers in the country upon the various © somicn treated, giving to the people at large the benefits of their extensive experiment and research. It would be possible for a farmer, by subscribing _ for all the leading agricultural periodicals of the country for a number of years and by purchasing a considerable library of standard works upon the ee such items and articles as he con- Pa ial ‘aoa coiaiiueill a ¢ 7% iv PREFACE. sidered of the greatest interest and value, and pasting them ina scrap-book, to collect a mass of matter equivalent to that portion of this book allotted to ‘The Farm,” and his wife, possessing herself of authorities upon the sub- jects in which she is interested and pursuing a like course, might produce a artial duplicate of the matter contained in the department of ‘* The House- hold”; but the cost would have been as three hundred to a unit, and the result ‘would be a clumsy, voluminous scrap-book with no method of ar- rangement, in comparison with a neat, handy and convenient yolume ar-_ ranged with every facility for reference. From this indisputable argument the value of the work to all interested in the subjects of which it treats may be computed; but we would not be misunderstood as claiming that the pos- session of the work by a farmer and housekeeper will obviate the necessity of subscribing for the agricultural paper as usual, for, while the book is the more valuable for reference, especially in cases of emergency, the agricul- tural paper is indispensable as enlightening the farmer upon the new theo- ries constantly being promulgated and the new discoveries at all times being made, without which knowledge he would fail to keep pace with the age in which he lives, and therefore be unable to compete with his more progressive neighbors in the prosecution of his calling. The term ‘* Cyclopedia” as applied to the work is a misnomer according to the lexicographer’s definition, inasmuch as the alphabetical arrangement of titles, as required for works thus designated, has not been preserved, the compiler being convinced that the arrangement of the subject-matter in departments would be more acceptable to the public. As by common usage applied to any work covering all subjects embraced in a certain field of knowledge, however, the title is entirely in keeping with the character of the book, for as a treatise upon all matters pertaining to the farm and the house- hold itis complete. It is a book for each of the heads of the rural house- hold, being equally as valuable and interesting to the farmer’s wife as to the farmer himself, and may be truthfully said to embrace the cream of more than a dozen ordinary volumes, for it combines a book on Rural Archi- tecture, on Crops, on Fertilizers, on Gardening, on Fruit Culture, on Live Stock, on Poultry, on Dairy Farming, on Bee Keeping, on Implements, on Farm Management, on Cookery, on Medical Matters,on Fancy Work, on Floriculture, on the Toilet, on Domestic Economy and Household Manage- ment—in fact, it embraces all subjects in which farmers and housekeepers are most directly interested. ; The arrangement of the work in departments will, we think, commend itself to all, while the copious index at the end will render it extremely easy of consultation. The book is a permanent storehouse of useful facts, hints and suggestions for farmers and housekeepers. It may be consulted upon any problem or in any emergency that may arise, and will rarely fail to elicit the information desired. We believe it to be the very book that every farmer and housewife needs, and that it will repay its small cost many times over each month in the year. : CONTENTS. ae PAGE nn POUR 3. ds ous Saunt sop kawscoacddccwshuspeensaane ak ll . ae Loud eaedenp wanes Cr aewr ets soys arabia ra han naan s Wome 27 DERM Shige cd sistas alta eccaca bss avnde eres Wen saaabeva sweet ee 37 RM Rak i sala és pa Sed ke apeiss Dien ga sb abedeses 4s sshancecs 58 ed Ghintes LAE EES ye SEC eee rere ene Sere 81 RUMEREED AME) VEREVARD. <5. 2 occ s wave cnccgaeesseecuscubes=tndssneneus 103 SMR 5 gata >. 5 22s diae Sup Stas dee cae cosa Bane kent «cgoueenss 130 MS eg nay eas aaa chasms) spoke ch anus os whe dawakees taki seauen 137 EMRE MEME, «2.5 wv esels casas st vek Nes ays 0 Sa gweece ek SReeEe 190 a ER SE ORE En POR REET a ee, ee 221 ER BLOOD cucukd dks oon ce nieal'd sin tovie daa qesersechundeen Jee 232 Farm IMPLEMENTS... -.------ Sania sf 2 RE Rites 0 cas aie geek Rea 241 ennai Saree Sami os) 24 plea ees a» scaeenen aguueninas Be rR SOME ROMO oe oon cuisine dc ccacuedecesabcdntsssnckeoasscaceustqukes 35 Treatie for Pointing the Rails. 2... .... 6. cccc cece cee wcccsee cecsces ete ee 35 Hection of tie Six Rall Pence. ... oo... cess ccnsccecccecsccsccccucceusessagevece 36 DROWN OG ines a an dcadensebocuhichuaceuscatededcabeatyacansandsaeanebhbeed ae 36 PO ar MOON OF. BOM GO)... oon cc cackenccnccccccuccccepoctansastasctarsvonces 38 ORE NEM Rosas crucabin dss icuestenvesvestipcaqessuubbaas ceughesseunua 37 ae © Rains wena sdeuinicn gia binuustddleduaeeay sends oben eis dan ts 38 ed " Ras < da Suewatiaensbucbe ssakehba kenakeas ceaddvasweeycusesub ae 38 Ns is Saba pidedch bike cncadvavehablddas , petheccene saGhsueae 39 An Ohio Corn Crib.—Fig. : Foe vaahw Sh cede aad aa cad pie We ddan sah by vacedenkns Seeite 40 die MT dis wuk cuaeccldcaasd Ghdandcsedddbendl e06hs chal katenkvane 40 A Convenient Corn crib CE OT A OSS SEP eS a er ere ee ee 41 EIEN oa... cu Liga nsedesccak oben ns dsscatenkpesas bonne becasue ghuph ae 42 i EE Bg nncckncegthrcecaskhd tcpVanccnceqgutccs skuvot Geode A Sigseses 42 = ce ON SRE RES a SR pee eee eae ENE ee Contrivanceé for Catching the Potato Beetle. ........... 2.222 see ene eee ceeeene ee 47 Ce Cot ean URED wan ad gc auaas ns keawaS a0 oS ORR ee) vas a4 quran ccaepansenens & Movable Beds A: PPE coding Adnvn eal Ui make pes 00 qnee = ockens €4gbadbanee 84 Bed with Two Sides Partially Uncovered... .........-----..es cence eee eeneeee es = Preuine NO Clee Meanie te cant cake ial kh aunaGabeseu enon ve acthaeeamuadein s « 96 Pruning Mig Ne ae a tee. ea a —<* eeeF 106 viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE Jiggithill: (eS Olt) Beanery POE rier rer Pick Tee eeeeraOS OPA TE A DDIOTETCEB oo el sine) c'e ee ns be sede eioieis Se ame -ahe amas ery ee bea ee Transplanting Large Trees. ad S| Os PPP INE re NaN eg Soca 1 a PROT PSA GAA oe aos Oe Bean FAG GAtherer... o.oo esi dane ve cesen asus 5 ee sips seelein nese nneee ce sepvel ake In the Vineyard.—Fig. 1.......6-. grt ct anseeeneresseccnbnccccetasecsee sa seuune - 126 1 AP able Bier ot ye 3 ish gag nadie sop aR ene iaiee SOO hes 4 BIZ. 8, dea sted staan ces Rees hate es sinls seen eee Sn ER SW Keeping Grapes in Winter. a | Ae Re EERE es uh epee ot 128 BIg. 2... oe sais Sa.e o'bid-edaleis cle aaens Sete Eee eee eantve 128 A’ Cheap Trellis... .. 2.2. .00.6ssecsensccceveness doeseres See eacecaneuscuscesanses Horseshoe. Sr Fe. 2 1 To Break Horses fron Pulling at the Halter, —Fig. 1 Fig. 2 How to Prevent. Horses from Kicking... oi. c.0 sc. Gccaca sue bee aisle a ieerene aete One: Cause of Hide-Bound.. «2... .0000ceeecsis.ves ae deuechossiecdieilee aUeeeaeaese NGA W BOUL oes as's so ve cae sve spc sss bicdnucuseuss canon maaaman Faueekaas SUE Meloving CHOKE, Cate. ooo. /.5 6c escueiesinecoselsieissish nee Wha eeitteeen mame baeiess 157 RIAETIO FRAG 5 0:6 osc 5: si5.0.0.0 0 0:600.0.09 5.0% 0m aging. bun 6. dis.winwib acl Sone eae tenl aint 159 To Prevent Cattle from Hooking Fences.........scccccscwccccevevsceescusuwes « 161 Np Prevent Cows KiCKin gs oi. 25..c0b sess tse esick Cede silas eoneeitee eet ee een eD 162 Mca sneer [Or SLOOK ois 6 cc's ois c5 oie dee ise to's eidlele cea aaee Wiste ale wham etwaiatate #7 164 Weed Rack for Stock...............06- a.bin'a4.0 20's 900 0'p. hdd 0le Pape ae oa 166 CATT WV OATIOR « o:s.o 50's 5gid eis. o'es sig a's cie's,c hp 20's sean 3S 851d ae eI Oe Renin A WVIIMOT PULL OLY «6s ios sscics ca wvccs'c'seseduac woo weblewtete > whee satan et inant Congontnnt. LPOUMN. <60..05.0- 00 0ievsceceslaied's bounce Monge telaeee eee eee A Convenient Feeding Trough... 2... sss ccencaseccavectuwesisnsee seme enenae 3 TAAOOM TEMS POGY-« 8 sie '0.4:5 9 0'5\0'b ainin 0.9.6 im piene\d\pls,e-mihig Vie wn wie alan nate ible ais OL Pig Scraping BDIE. wiv. c'o's 2.5 os aviv noiee sih'sit's 5's sip oaisialslae NG e.a eile aetna ae eae An English Method of Hurdling Sheep BHGCDURIGER) MAgniNed <3. sinc ae ode ean sous aos oma seeange Tank for Dipping Sheep Feed Rack for Sheep............. A Poultry House for Chicks................. Win ado esdnnis Dares o hWeES ke A Model Hennery. SBlOVatlon s.cc dene sees eo vlscene nice ac knns agi balaeny a eeannaee ss Bnd View Of INGUIOKs < 00.5.0 sew e see cep pane Coes +) 392 Movable Poultry Honege. «0. ne hae ROa ee Ea eer iy re a bbechhbs4's eee Pantin aweinevobeerveh an veey Kt ray Power for Churning.—Fig. 1... TET Le et a ew) nae LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. ix * _ Power for Churning. ees SeGanNdsovashhne tanuabs Rakcaneg sd cun alee acre eats ch) #4 4 2 a scp OIA RODE R. AE nak San 5 SRS 23 i areal De AVON ca ec dG tbo necevidc sen sbsbscatbencdsanentebauss>aatess 232 NG. G5. Pad ih ean ee atup nab eatabahecksiuas Vania epee aeebsame 232 Ou End Piece Driver Coulter-Cleaning Plow AMRCHMENE. <.cnvcdcecsescucvesseucenncasecnusesbensas as OU ses sc onnacev ssid scsécsounvbascvuaesvustimant ose uanigeaaesuspe a9 Corn Sheller A Good Weeding PRIDRSTONE, oa nc ndu dcpenscume ews en Sevrhacthed nade dumeaess sas 250 ee EORROME FOCERIINE Sass ch ccdstsbsnadccccdhpebetestopenetncestasesnhs 251 eee ee eee eee eee eee eee eee eee eee Muste Port REROS Np SGlsetassuaausackceTasbtatencdpedesss6 ddtcentuncet sAauhas 359 PORE udas tua.scve< canst Roads akwasessewasanwrdsabduwap cued duShGankehas beauin 360 x LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PME MANO vna'ds b fouin sees soir tiedvesschseaevdeegunaanecron Card-Receiver and Watch Cas Toilet Bottle Case.—Fig. 1 = NEES A She onesies cu bias 034% jie'ae weet Rey eck lececr wale Garantie ome ne RE a sisiacines hac4 Caecwcce’s apse cee 3 oie baad settee ore Sik bt ate thin cSt a US NRPS SIS op A RE Se RS ree Re Are 9 Siw ace bas Cleve Sie ed eg ee ore 364 BU OLWVOTK GASEOD. 6 civs.acc cece wnvic cesves s.cces saa sin cbglbe ale sen anne tne eames 364 Crochet Som Pillow, Or Bomster, «55.3.5 cnsieo0s02 os:0 00's SDS os Cn santa a cena eE een 365 RIBMUROTOMIOL OKs 5 5 6cc ccc knnd0n a 6naswaane aca gece mesicens seller ae SOC ode UME ROO R ON, sccwick sc No cn's-acegicc pean seeds sas hdt ss sineba ce cpiteaes sie ie eeene 367 PE RERMASDATCNOY. soc 6 <5's <0 s0'00seuvicovee pos cidaee ses tmluakient Une nee canen eee 368 MARAINTN PAO ss o'o 5 0'w a a oi0'os 0019 Fae de bu bees viel tae Maeea cease die aitan eee eee eee 369 RPIOVE BOX ANA OOVEL, 5s. 5 0.cinpae sencesdaceVaw nue ahs ton page eaesie caldee Aue ane 370 PROG. ¢ pecs uw bxicce ne) 0.0 nbs wate a au Wlaa'via samaaiale GsS'neh esleielten bite cee geal aennnn 370 EBO1GD FANCY Bait PMYBC os: sceto cre a's watewes ao bad co 6 5 s.0 oles o'peiane Rae ene 371 Solssor Case. and Needle Cushion. 6.052. ods cuscases coos s caueumeeauveaeeeunae es 372 PIANGNS POLMONGG <.50'0.5 viens s rive csnnasiece exe ube k os bes oer Ckwie wa ee eee 373 MABE COLE SCAB. sant s.anci'siecincaisinslcas sie ale seies ental wals skabulc me nan ame 3874 Work Basket, Open........ Wieidre as afin yin = ¥ yh ew bcn's ce bce bial toc a eae een 375 ah ASI GRCH Sat canta Ld oat ue es ao vs das 6d yaaa + caueee Pe 875 Knitted Dressing Serer: Se betaacasasaceus we Sale ite . 376 Detail of Fig. 1.—Fig. 2.......... chs ola SAREE eae . 376 Ao SiG TROBE Sain wise uy’ h.o' Sioa dies wits kis a Saat Wie Didi ty wae oN ae oan CO. Stand for CiUrGP AANOS.. os. ssec.ncnces ge ons~m eC easeilvaes <5 ee ated Oceeeean hae 377 Bahiy Bask bis. ss si'teleewne te bine ean ts ob once dean a a1aiy alee eee lee Reena eS wan 378 Embroidered Chair Cover. Spain au gele wan ph oes le momenta «ea eaae Sd wiBhees onan SE 379 Work Stand............ set Ss 2 : AN INEXPENSIVE COTTAGE.—ELEVATION. _- An Inexpensive Cottage.—We give the plan of a neat and beautiful country cottage, the low cost of construction of which adapts it to the wants of those in moderate circumstances, while, in attractive appearance and gen- eral conyenienee, it rivals those of a much higher cost. This cotta is designed in the rural Gothic or English manner, but much modified, so as to adapt it to almost any site. The light, open porch may be omitted without injuring the design. In the plan, A is the porch, from which we enter the hall or entry, 8 feet wide, with the two best rooms, each 16x18 feet, on either side of it. Connected with the living-room, in its rear, is a good pasiry. B is the back entry, communicating with the kitchen. (is the back porch, which may be left open in summer, and inclosed in win- ter, when it will serve as a place for coal and wood. On one side of the kitchen fire-place is a closet, and on the other a sink, into which, if possible, ws as 3h 19 THE PARM. a water-pipe should be brought. The first story of this cottage is 10 feet, and the second story 5 feet, on the sides, and 8 feet in the middle of the rooms. The pitch of the roof is a right angle. The cost of this cottage, with the interior neatly finished and painted in oil color, and the two principal rooms grained and varnished like oak, and their walls papered with suitable paper—all the other rooms having brown walls whitewashed—would be about $800. .Y An Ornamental Country Cottage.—We give on pages 13 and 14 illus- trations of a plan and elevation of a cheap, but very ornamental, country cottage, which will be found both conyenient and comfortable for a small family. If this plan is not extensive enough to meet your wants, it can be easily enlarged upon by making additions, or by enlarging the size of the , whole plan, and thus in- creasing the dimensions of the rooms. This, however, would necessarily add to the cost of construction. The cottage, as shown in our illustration, presents a very aristocratic appear- ance, and, considering the small amount of money re- quired for its construction, is, we think, a very desir- able plan for a cheap and good dwelling-house. The dimensions of the rooms on the ground floor are plainly given in our second illustra- tion. The porch, with its seat, is large and roomy; the living-room is of good size, well lighted by a square bay-window. The \ kitchen is well supplied AN INEXPENSIVE COTTAGE.—GROUND PLAN. With closets. The first floor could be very much im- proved by adding a one-story kitchen at the rear, making the living-room into a parlor, and the kitchen into a dining and sitting-room; the additional cost would be very small, The second floor contains three bedrooms, very conveniently arranged, and each provided with a closet. The two down- stairs rooms and the large front bedroom are supplied with open fire-places, the value of which for ventilation is so often overlooked in cheap houses. Besides this, there should be ventilating tubes or shafts in the chimney sides, with registers opening from each room, thus insuring a good system of ventilation. The roof should be ventilated by openings under the pro- jected eaves. The estimated cost of this building is from $1,200 to $1,800, according to locality and style of finish. General Suggestions to Those Intending to Build.—tThe following excellent recommendations are from the American Home and Farm Oyelo- pvedia: Farmers can afford to leave cellar-kitchens, basements, third stories, and all other unnecessary stair-climbing deyices to their city cousins, who a ch ie ale RURAL ARCHITECTORE. 13 ~ have to count the cost of every square foot they build upon. The only ad- vantage of second stories in the country is that they are more healthful for sleeping apartments. If every fire has a separate flue, and each fine terminates in its own par- ticular chimney-top, there will never be any trouble over smoking fires, if the chimney is high enough. Proper care in the#frrangement of various rooms will save those whe have to do the housework a thousand needless steps. Kitchen and dining- AN ORNAMENTAL COUNTRY COTTAGE.—ELEVATION. room should always be adjoining apartments. The china closet best opens into the dining-room. A trap-door connecting the pantry with the dining- room is & great convenience. It is well to have the wood-shed very near the kitchen, and connected with it by a covered way, avoiding exposure in in- clement weather. An attic over the entire house, with a window at each end, will be found of signal utility for drying clothes in bad weather. Provide plenty of closets and cupboards in all of the rooms. The lady of the house, who is the one most vitally interested in this matter, should not ad 14 THE FARM. a be allowed to insist upon this in vain. Varnishing wood will make the paint last longer, and saves incalculable elbow grease in house-cleaning. Shingles of cedar will last from thirty to forty years, and those of pine from twelve to twenty years. In the arrangement of out-buildings, the following relative proximity will be found convenient: First, the house; attached to that the kitchen-wing, with wood-house appended; then, at a little distance, the privy, carriage- house, and workshop, with pig-sty and poultry-house adjoined. Stone and brick walls should always be furred off, leaving an air space between the stonework and plastering throughout the entire ‘wall, and open- KITCHEN 12.0 X% 12.0 LIVING ROOM 10.6 X 14.0 AN ORNAMENTAL COUNTRY COTTAGE.—GRODND PLAN ing into the attic. This prevents dampness, and insures an equable tem- perature. _Brick houses must have a slate, sheet-copper, or tarred paper cut-off inserted in the foundation just below the water-shed, as otherwise the moisture of the greund is worked up by the brick, keeping the walls con- stantly damp. Frame houses may be made much warmer and more comfortable than they usually’ are by covering the studding with tongued and grooved sheathing, and this in turn by tarred building paper, placing the weather boarding over the whole. Fit the sheathing and weather boarding closely around door and window-frames, and let the tarred paper lap over a little where there is likely to be a crack, ° ad i i ie oe RURAL ARCHITECTURE. 15 Where ingrain carpets are to be used, it favors their economical entting to have either the length or breadth of each reom some multiple of their usual width—one yard—as twelve feet, fifteen feet, etc. _ Construction of an Octagonal Barn.—There are various plans for ying out and building barns of this shape, in all of which the principles are the same. There is a concrete or stone foundation wall, which may be either below ground for a cellar or partially below it for a basement, or wholly above it for a stable, an inclined way being built on two opposite sides to give access to the barn floor. Upon this foundation the sills are laid, the corners being made at an angle of 135 degrees, instead of 90 degrees, as in the square building. There are no cross-bea ecessary except upon the floor, there being cight bents in the building; dil on the outside, the plates PA A ee es FIG. 1.—ELEVATION OF AN OCTAGONAL BARN. being mortised exactly as the sills are, and the posts placed with regard to the necessary doors and windows, and the strength necessary to support the roof and stiffen the building. As many braces as may be thought needful may be used, but the braces must all be on the lines of the walls, anf none of them cross-braces. The roof is an eight-sided cone, strengthened with purlin plates, and may be open at the center for a cupola or ventilater. The jomts of all the plates and the sills will be at an angle of 62 1-2 degrees, in- stead of 45 degrees, as in a square building. This form of the frame will give a roof of the strongest kind—one that cannot spread, if well put to- gether, and one that offers less resistance to the wind than any other form of elevated roof. Inside of the barn there is nothing to interfere with the piling of grain or hay to the roof, and a wagon may be driven anywhere upon 16 THE FARM. the floor. The plan of the basement is shown at Fig. 2, a being a passage for the cows, and a drive-way for removing the manure; b, b, are the stalls for the cows, of which there are fifty-two, having the feed-trough toward the center, and all reached by an inner drive-way. There are six stalls, and a room at each end of the stalls for harness. At e is a place for storing plows, carriages, wagons, or machines. A drive- way (f, f) passes through the basement from east to west. As many win- dows as needed may be built in the wall, The sills of the barn are laid upon the wall, as already mentioned; the posts are _ 28 feet high, and the plates upon these sup- port the rafters. The plates are fastened to- gether at the ends by be- ing halved, and the cor- ners fastened by half-inch 5 iron bolts, as shown at FIG. 2.—PLAN OF BASEMENT. Fig. 3. At each corner is a brace of 8x8 timber, bolted to and through the plates by three-quarter-inch bolts, and strength- ened by an iron plate on the inside, through which the bolts pass. The shoulders of the corner rafters rest upon these braces and plates, as shown at Fig. 4. These rafters are of 6x12 timber. Purlin plates of 8x10 inch tim- ber are bolted under the rafters, and are fastened together at the corners i the same manner as the plates. The intermediate rafters rest upen these purlins. Iron tie-rods may be used to strengthen the rafters and hold them to- gether, if thought necessary. Fig. 1 shows the elevation, with a portion of the roof re- moved to show the manner of laying the rafters and bridging them. A crown rim is bolted to the rafters at the point of the roof j —or, rather, the rafters are bolted to the S crown rim—which supports a cupola. The ~~ cupola is fifty feet from the floor of the barn, the roof rising twenty-two feet, and the post being twenty-eight feet high. The floor of rig. 3.—coRNER JOINT. the barn is laid upon beams, supported by FIG. 4.—CORNER BRACE. brick piers or timber posts in the basement. A line of beams may be laid above the floor on either side, above which floors may be laid; the space thus made may be used for granaries, or stor- age of farm tools or machines, or other cumbrous property. Plan for a Barn.—We present herewith a plan for a new and improyed barn. For convenience, neatness of appearance, and practical utility, it will co RURAL ARUHITECTURE. 1% be found most excellent, and should any of our readers contemplate build- ing, they would do well to give this article a careful study; and should they not desire to follow out the plan to the letter, they might still be able to gain from it some valuable hints in planning a barn of a different style. The fol- lowing is the description of the plan we have illustrated: A, stables, 8x28, for nine cows, earth floor; B, man’s room; C, carriages; D, harness room; E, meal or shorts; F, shelled corn; G, oats; H, passage-way; I, passage-way, 4 feet wide, platform floor, with pump; L, box “for mixing feed; M, stairs; N, O, stalls, 5 feet wide; P, Q, R, stables, 6 feet wide; 8, feed-bin for eatile; V, feed-box for horses; W, wagon shed, earth floor, 18x21; X, wagon shed, open at south and east, 9x17; Y, tool room, 9x10; Z, feed-bin; W, T, water-trough. Main barn, 30x42 feet; posts, 18 feet in the clear; shed wing, 26x30 feet; posts, 12 feet in clear; lean-to shed, 14 feet wide, 42 feet long— all to have roof at one-third angle of rise. There will be 230 feet in length of wall underground, to be built of rough stone 1 foot high and 18 inches thick. Upon this is to be laid, in courses, quarried stofe, in blocks, not less than 8x12 inches, 1 foot high and 1 . foot thick, and all pointed. _ There will be required twelve piers, each 18 inches Square and 2 feet high; these to be built of stone, and four of them to have ,the upper stone 12x18 inches. All to be laid in _ good strong lime mortar, and in a workman-like and *NOLLVAWTA LNOUA—"NUVa V WOA NVTIE — U M . = i ——} gta. » substantial manner. There will be required for sills 334 feet in length of 8x8 timber, and 42 feet in length, 6x8; this last for the sill in front of cones in lean-to shed. For posts, girts of main beams, plates, etc., etc., there will be required 913 feet in length, of 6x6. For purlin beams, girts, etc., there will be required 454 feet of length, 4x6; and for intermediate girts, braces, eic., 394 feet of length, of 3x4 stuff. The sides should all be of oak or white pine, 18 HE FARM. The main »eams, purlins, posts, girts, etc., may be of oak, ash, red birch, white pine, or white wood. The joists are to be of oak or white pine, and these will be required as follows: 103 pieces, each 14 feet long, 2x8; 20 pieces, each 9 feet long, 2x8; 20 pieces, each 10 1-2 feet long, 2x8; and 11 pieces, each- 8 feet long, 2x8. The rafters will be as follows: 42, each 19 feet long, 2x4 at 26 3 aie ost DS kK = S) ban) i : > a [e oe] = C s « = roo) ee re Fh S c g a se % "al < ms ot & i Wy AY os J] & Q < t i is 3 Q “We tess i ——"y ae) ie) 2 | a 5.2.8 ce. 8 2 i one end and 4x6 at the other, for the main beam; 21, each 17 feet long, 3x4, for the lean-to shed; and 30, each 16 feet long, 2x4 at one end and 3x65 at the junction of the first with the second stories (as shown from outside). There should be a.strip inserted of 2x2. The frieze board to be 8 inches wide and 2 inches thick. The boards all to be straight edge, and the whole to be bat- tened with strips one inch thick and three inches wide, having the edges beveled half an inch, exhibiting a face of two inches. The whole to be of good, merchantable, dry pine timber. The roof boards may be of any light RURAL ARCHITECTURE. 19 and durable timber, and shall be laid so that no space of over two inches may be found. That portion of the roof which projects beyond the up- right portion of the building shall be of double thickness. The shingles are to be of the best quality, and laid only 4 inches to the weather. The win- dows are to be made as per plan, all frames to be of seasoned pine, free from knots. The sash windows of 12 lights, each 9x12 inches, except two, viz., one in south end of main barn, and one in east side of same; these to be as shown mm plan. The blind windows to be hung with butt hinges, and fastened with hasp hooks, both outside and inside. They are to swing outward. The doors are all to be formed to present an appearance outside same as balance of barn. They are to be jack-planed sufiicient- ly to render them free of splinters in hand- ling. They are to be placed and formed of height, width, etc., as shown in plan. They are all to be hung with wrought-iron strap hinges, and secured by latches and hasp hook staples. A Complete Stock Barn.—We present herewith an illustrated plan, with careful de- &cription, of a complete stock barn, embrac- ing many good and sensible points in its construction, from which we trust our friends may gather some valuable suggestions. The body of the main barn is 100 feet long by 50 feet wide, the posts 18 feet high above the sill, making 9 bents. The beams are 14 f fect above the sills, which is the height of the : ca] posts. The position of the floor and _ ™ bays is readily understood from the plan. The floor, for a grain barn, is 14 feet wide, but may be contracted to 12 feet for one ex- clusively for hay. The area in front of the bays is occupied with a stationary horse- power and with machinery for various farm operations, such as threshing, shelling corn, cutting straw, crushing grain, eic., all of which is driven by bands from drums on the horizontal shaft overhead, which runs across the floor from the horse-power on po the other side; this shaft being driven by Maat & cog-wheel on the perpendicular shaft round which the horses travel. A passage fonr feet wide extends between the bays and the stables, which occupy the two wings. This extends up to the top of the bays, down which the hay is thrown for feeding, which renders this work as easy and conven- ient as possible. ; A one-sided roof is given to the sheds (instead of a double-sided), to throw. all the water on the outside, in order to keep the interior of the yards dry. Eave-troughs take the water from the roofs to cisterns. The *"NOLLVARTAE“NUVA MOOLS ALTINOO V = > 20 THE FARM. eisterns, if connected by an underground pipe, may be all drawn from by a single pump if necessary. The floor of the main barn is three feet higher than that of the stables. This will allow a cellar under it, if desired—or a deeper extension of the bays—and it allows storage lofts over the cattle, with sufficient slope of roof. A short flight of steps at the ends of each passage, admits easy access from the level of the barn floor. The sheds, which extend on the three sides of the barn, and touch it at the rear end, are on a level with the stables. An inclined plane, from the main floor through the middle of the back shed, forms a rear egress for wagons and carts, descending three feet from the floor. The two rooms, one on each side of this réar passage, 16 by 34 feet, may be used for housing sick animals, cows about to calve, or any other purpose required. The sta- bles at the front ends of the sheds are convenient for teams of horses or oxen, or they may be fitted for wagon houses, tool houses, or other purposes. The rooms, 16 feet square at the inner corners of the sheds, may be used for weak ewes, lambs, or for a bull stable. Racks or mangers may be fitted up in the open sheds for feeding sheep SHES aoe |B. [sen eee sens mae a aor | +g [pom ct aes a aed y He ae a | =i 5 o = b t ; 2 mn eB 4 e 2| ajiEs — = é = be Aline § bm IE Ff -— =] Bin ® E Taint —ie a p= ts A COMPLETE STOCK BARN.—GROUND PLAN, or youag cattle, and yards may be built adjoining, on the rear, six or eight in number, into which they may run and be kept separate. Barred parti- tions may separate the different flocks. Bars may also enclose the opening in front, or they may, if required, be boarded up tight. Step ladders are placed at convenient intervals, for ascending the shed lofts. A granary over the machine room is entered by a flight of stairs. Poles extending from bay to bay, over the floor, will admit the storage of much additional hay or grain. * A Convenient Barn.—A recent inquiry about how to build a barn, writes a correspondent of an agricultural periodical, tempts me to describe mine, which I think very handy. My barn is situated on a side hill with an incline of about seven feet in forty to the west. There is a bridge at each end for a driveway, only one of which is shown in our illustration, Fig. 1. On the right, as you enter the main door, the baysyextend down to the ground nine feet. Under the main floorway I keep = sheep. Under the bridge each end is open, to give the, sheep plenty of light‘and air, as it will ” not do to keep them too warm. In stormy weather I cloge the doors. Ou . 7 wa x leet . » ° o RURAL ARCHITECTURE. 21 the left of the main floorway is the cow linter, and, beneath, the pig pen. The will be more readily understood from the illustration, Fig. 2. 1. Sheep pen; 2. Barn floorway; 3. Standing floor in the linter; 4. Cows* manger; 5. Iron strap used instead of stanchion; 6. Tie chain; 7. A trough filled with dirt or sawdust for the animals’ front feet to stand on, thus pre- venting slipping; 8. Cows’ feed door; 9. Sheeps’ feed door; 10. Sheep rack; ll. Pig pen; 12. Windows used for 5 cleaning sheep pens and pig pens; 13. Tight partition; 14. Walk behind the cows; 15. Scuttle for cleaning out manure. Tt will be noticed that the door |= through which the sheep are fed Y opens downward, and does not con- #74 flict with the cows’ feed door, which [—2a2 lifisupward. By having these doors mere the Imter can be closed up tightin [Fz cold weather, and the cattle will Zz Ls = keep warm. The main part of the BARN.— barn need not be clap-boarded. 80 ~~ San long as the roof is tight and the hay does not get wet, it is no injury to the a, have it well ventilated. This ventilation is indeed beneficial and z to carry off from the fodder the effluvia from the manure in the Cheap Barn Cellar.—But comparatively few farmers (as compared to the masses) have yet been convinced that it will pay to construct a root-cel- lar, and ‘then to raise the roots to fill it with, but for all that, those who have provided themselves with cel- lars find they pay. As it is not always convenient to have one beneath the barn, it may be built above ground as follows: Dig down three feet the size desired; twelve by twenty feet makes a good large cellar; and ten by sixteen feet will do for six or eight hundred bushels. Get on hand a lot of small logs or poles from six to ten inches in diameter, with which to build the portion above ground. Cut the poles for each side three feet _ longer than the width or length ofthe excavation. Place the first , two poles on flat stones or blocks back a foot from the edge of the hole dug, and upon opposite sides. Flat- ten the ends with the ax and lay two cross poles as you would in starting a log house. In these end pieces one foot from the end cut notches for the “mext side poles to lie in._ With each round, set the side poles in a foot, which will give a regular slant to the roof, and make a very strong frame for the weight that is to come upon it. The end that is to contain the door should be carried up straight, while the other may be slanted up, as the sides. 4] THE FARM. Cover this frame with cull or common lumber, laying the boards on up and down. Next put ona heavy layer of marsh hay or straw to keep the dirt from coming in contact with and rotting the lumber; over this put a . foot of earth. A shute should be provided for filling the house, and a small ventilation flue for winter. The end where the door is located should be i iM " if ll age MON a tii {is AN OLD BARN IMPROVED.—ELEVATION, double boarded and filled in between with saw-dust or cut straw; there should also be a double door. A storing house of this kind, if well made, will last eight or ten years, and give as good satisfaction as one costing $200. How an oid Barn was Improved.—We present herewith 9 brief de scription of how an old barn was remodeled and greatly improved without much expense, and furnish illustrations showing the barn after the changes i RURAL ARCHITECTURE, 2 had been made, and the plan of the basement underneath in detail. By a careful study of this plan, our readers may be able to gather some valuable hints and suggestions. The original building was the common 32x42 feet barn, with fourteen posts, a fourteen-feet floor in the middle, with bay on one side and stable on the other, with a lean-to of thirteen feet in the rear, the building standing on the line of the road and facing the west, the grounds descending say one foot in thirty to northeast. It was first raised so that the northeast corner would clear six feet, dug out to a level of one foot below that of the lowest corner; then a ditch was dug one and a half feet below that under the outside sills, all around which was filled witd MANURE SHEO by is D PA od o 8STALLS be 28x12 +4 ~ = 28 oe ae | asracs |Ou a oa == a | axes |? 8 ALLEY 12X28 we > to. 3s =s NS | war SHOOT ' x ener i “ el é ~ ~ BS BAY 62X20 Ss S n “ 4 w ROAD AN OLD BARN IMPROVED.—PLAN OF BASEMENT. small stone. A substantial stone wall was laid on the west side, and twenty feet on both north and south ends; the rest of the building was doublo- boarded saye where protected by other buildings. The front doors wero then closed, the floor taken up, cut out the bay girts, and laid off a floor of twenty feet on the west side (space reaching from the ground to roof), made a floor twelve feet wide in upright and all of lean-to—in all twenty-five feet, and cut a door in south end. The bay now would hold more than the whole barn before; a large floor, 25x42, thirteen feet of which can be used to store grain, and a space of 25x42 feet for stable. A good idea of the interior construction may be dbtained from the illustrated plan of the base ment. 24 THE FARM. Hanging Barn Doors on Rollers.—The great convenience of sliding or rolling doors on the farm outbuildings is well known, and as every farmer with a little ingenuity can construct them himself, there is no reason _ why they should not be generally adopted. Our illustration, Fig. 1, repre- sents the sliding doors, completed, as applied to the barn; Fig. 2, the man- securely fastened to the edge Lott ttt ttt t ot . * . LEEEEEEEE AEA AES Of an inch or two-inch board, AEE about four or five inches wide. Lo EES This is then firmly nailed or oe ey a a ne a a, spiked to the building, parallel to and even with the top of the = doorway, and should extend F cee 3c ee) the width of the door on each on ae side. In order that the doors may run easily, the track ¢l¢ should be laid as level as possible, and upon one board. The manner of fastening the rollers of the doors is clearly shown in the engraving Tig. 2. The doors are placed upon the tracks at the ends of the latter, and are prevented from running off by placing a block at the end of the track or upon the side of the door. The track should be pro- tected from the weather by some kind of coyering. Twe narrow boards nailed together similar to an eaves-trough, and fastened to the building above the track and rollers, form the best kind of protection from snow or rain. ric. 1.—APPEARANCE AFTER COMPLETION, Model Carriage-House and Stable.—Our engraving of the elevation, on the following page, shows doors of the rectangular, car- =P riage-house portion of the building; also door to hay- loft. The carriage-house doors are folding, and open outward, as they can be made closer when hung on hinges than when hung on rollers; and as it is desirable that ail doors and windows should be as close as practicable, that they may not affect the ventilation, the ingress of which is provided for by a subterrancous air duct, seen at A, in the ground plan. The posts are sixteen feet in length; the ceiling of the stable is nine feet in the clear, with storage in the loft for twelve tons of hay. Th The oat bin is a cylinder of one hundred bushels capacity, around which circular stairs are built. Its location could not be more convenient, as six horses can be fed grain with walking but fourteen feet, on account of the six stalls being with the head end around a semicircle of sixteen feet diimeter. This circular area is open to the cupola, and being supplied with air through the floer, under the stairs, and the animals all breathing into a common cen- FIG. 2.-MANNER OF APPLYING THE ROLLERS. RURAL ARCHITECTURE. 95 ter directly under the egress, the air is constantly changed without a per- ceptible current, and it is nearly at the temperature of the earth below the frost and solar influence; no doors nor windows need be opened. By reference to our illustration of the ground plan, it will be seen that the stall partitions are radial. The stalls are five feet in width in front, and eleven feet at the rear end. The stalls V and VI are arranged with strong gates hung to the wall of the building, in a line with the stall partitions, which, when closed, as seen in stall VI, form spacious, convenient box stalls. There is no partition between the carriage-house, VII, and the stable por- MODEL CARRIAGE-HOUSE AND STABLE.—ELEVATION. tion of the building, except that formed by the stall partitions and the gates closed, as seen in stall VI. The ventilation is so effectual that the air of the stable does not effect the earriage-house; and it being arranged with three drive doors, three pairs of horses to carriages may all be driven into the carriage-house at once, and the doors closed behind them, and the horses taken to their respective stalls. There are two harness closets, H, H. The rectangular figures in each stable floor, are cast-iron drip grates, each covering’a sink, or pit, into which the urine falls. These are all con- nected by pipes, which all connect with a main inner conduit, laid in the 26 THE FARM, ground by way of the stable door. This conduit discharges into the manus house. The quadrant-shaped figures at the head of the stalls, are hinged iron mangers, which may be turned into the feeding passages for conven- _ ience in feeding, and the man- gers may be unhinged and remoyed from the building when cleansed. The circular fignre in the line of the stall partitions, is the base of a sheet-iron hay tube, which is supported at the height of the manger, and extends to the upper surface of the loft floor, where it is supplied with hay. These tubes have an opening to each stall, so that one tube sup- plies two horses, the tube be ing covered at the top, and close, except the feeding open- ings, and the lattice bottom to and dust, and is the most per- fect and durable hay-feeding arrangement yet discovered. | MODEL CARRIAGE-HOUSE AND STABLE.— The object of the lattice bot- GROUND PLAN. tom to the hay tubes, is to preserve the hay seed which sheds. It falls into a drawer for the purpose, and the seed thus saved is of excellent quality, and the quantity thus collected well remunerates for the cost of the arrangement. The cupola is octangular, and has four openings, with stationary blinds, and four with glazed sash, which thoroughly light the nay-loft and feeding passage. The building is perfectly lighted and ventilated, and exhibits a pretty sleyation from any point of view, them protects the hay from air - FENCES AND GATES. Farm Fences.—In the following list of farm fences we have endeavored to illustrate and describe only those that are of practical value and in actual use by many farmers. They illustrate the various modes of arranging rails for the turning of stock and indicating the boundary line of farms. In many sections of the country the common crooked, zig-zag (sometimes called the Virginia or worm) rail fence is extensively used, and, in consequence of the scarcity of the desired material, cannot be immediately replaced by the im- proved board, post and rail, iron or stone fence. As commonly constructed, with wide-spreading stakes at each corner, it occupies a strip of ground nearly a rod in width, which is far worse than useless, affording a harboring place for noxious weeds, ete. Fig. 1 represents a section of a straight rail fence. The stakes are first driven in the soil from four to six inches asunder, sufficient to admit of a rail of medium size; a stone or block of wood a few inches in height is placed between the stakes, upon which are properly placed two or three rails; a piece of annealed wire is then placed around both stakes, the ends being well twisted together, upon which are placed rails until within a few inches of the top, when another bit of wire, a wooden pin, or a wooden cap, as most convenient, is attached. In building this class of fence, it will be necessary to cut away with an axe a portion of each end of many rails, that they may fit closely within the stakes. Tn this, as well as other rail fences, the largest and heaviest rails should be reserved for the top, rendering their removal by unruly stock and high winds less easy. Keep the crooked ones in a panel by themselves, and if they are very crooked it is policy to use them for stakes, or consign them to the flames; for to have a fence to please and not to provoke the intrusion of stock, use none but sfraight rails. When economy of rails is desired, immediately after setting the stakes cast up a ridge of earth by plowing two furrows on each side, throwing up the second furrow with a shovel, making a ridge a foot or more in height, and not less than a foot in breadth at the top; proceed as above in the con- struction of the fence; sow grass seed upon the ridge. This plan saves two rails to a panel, renders the stakes more firm and less liable to heave by the aetion of the frost, and unruly cattle do not have the same advantage in attempting to get through or overit. In situations not liable to the preva- lence of high winds, this is the fence that should be used, occupying less 98 THE FARM. ground than many other kinds; and, when properly constructed, it is a substantial and neat fence. Fig. 2, though in appearance somewhat resembling the previous one, is more expensive, and is designed especially for the use of poles or slender rails that it would be im- possible to properly arrange in a fence by any other plan. ‘To the stakes are nailed cleats, as shown, from four to seven at every set of stakes. Size of rails and purpose of fence will decide this point. A ridge of earth can be thrown up as in the previous plan, with a ye corresponding economy of timber. rhe Fig. 3 exhibits a mode of stak- a CBET WN og 3 C'S ing a zig-zag fence. After the Tey toe foundation has been laid, the FARM FENCES.—¥FIG. 2. stakes should be driven; holes should be made with a crowbar to the depth of twenty inches at least. One man, standing on a box or bench, drives them with a sledge-hammer or common wooden beetle, while an assistant keeps them upright. Make all the holes before you commence driving the stakes, which should be all sharpened, and the top end reduced to a size admitting the caps to pass over them readily before they are brought to the field. When the fence is made four or more rails high (the size of rails, ete., will govern), the caps are put upon, and the fence finished by the addition of two or three more rails. Tn localities where caps are expensive or difficult to obtain, good annealed wire, size 10, will answer all purposes. It should be drawn tightly up around the stakes; it will bury into them, and the weight of the rails above the wires will rest upon the stakes, having a tendency to keep them in the ground when acted upon by the frost. The most expeditious manner in which to sharpen stakes is to haye a large, flat block of wood for the stake to stand on, which is held upright with one hand and sharpened with an axe held in the other; a hollow eut in the upper surface of the block will consider- ably expedite the operation. Hop poles, i stakes for grape-vines, ete., are best —==— = ee sharpened in the above manner. — SS =—— In Fig. 4 is shown the best plan known —_ =< —_ for staking the common rail fence. It —~=S>> is <== dispenses with stakes at the corners, and SS —-—= in consequence of their central position, ~* —<| they are not liable to be broken or “tn wn We Beem Bal loosened while plowing; nor does the “ “ tog fence occupy as much land as by the old ig ‘mode. In consequence of the central FARM FENCES.—r?14a. 3. point at which the stakes cross the upper rail of fence, it is required to sustain the weight of the stakes and riders; therefore, this part should be made strong and durable, of well-seasoned material. FENCES AND. GATES. 29 Fig. 5 represents a plan of bracing a rail fence, whether it be staked and ridered, staked and capped, locked and ridered, staked and wired, or wired and pinned, all of which kinds of fence are easily blown down by a heavy wind, rails broken, stock let into fields of valuable grain, time spent, and patience exhausted in rebuilding them. The manner of using the arrangement is clearly shown in the figure. It consists in placing on the inside leeward corner a piece of rail, one end resting upon the ground, the other placed underneath the third FARM FENCES.—FIG. 4. rail from the top. A fence braced as shown has stood five years without repairing, while a locked, staked and ridered fence by the side of it has been prostrated three times, although in a less exposed sitnation, thus demonstrating the value of this attachment when used in connection with the common rail fence. Straight Rail Fence.— We present a section of straight rail fence, which will be found easy and cheap to construct, and economical in saving timber and occupy- - ing space on the land. In constructing this fence good posts should be firmly set at such distances apart as will admit of the rails reach- ing from the center of one post to the center of the other. If necessary, straighten the face of the posts with an axe, and hew down the ends of the rails toa uniform thickness. These rails are fastened to the posts by means of a stake, which rests on a . stone or block of wood, and is firmly wired at the top and bottom to the post. In constructing the fence it is better to wire the bottom of the stake first—at the proper distance—and the top rather loosely, so as to admit the rails easily. When the rails are laid up draw the top wire tight, and if proper care has been taken in straight ening the face of the post, hewing the ends of the rails, etc., the work will bind to- gether very tightly. The fence will last as long as the posts; it is strong, requires no nails, nor any more wire than to stake an ordinary crooked fence, and it takes but little over half the posts necessary for an ordinary board 30 THE FARM. Durable Fence Posts.—We give herewith a drawing and description of a fence post which we think will last one’s life-time. The bottom of the post is formed of a stone—some kind that will drill easily—about eight inches thick and twenty long. In this stone two holes are drilled, one an inch and a quarter in diameter and three inches deep, and the other, half an inch in diameter and two inches deep; the holes should be about one foot apart. Bed the stone in the ground nearly level with the surface, with the small hole on the inside of the fence. Next take a scantling four inches square and three feet long, and put a bar of inch and a quarter iron into one end, lengthwise, about six inches. The end of the bar should project four or five inches. Place this into the largest hole in the stone, hold it plumb, turn in melted brimstone, and you haye a post. Bend the end of a rod of half inch iron, and fasten Seni 5 SS in the other hole in the same DURABLE FENCE POSTS, way; the other end should be flattened and attached to the scantling with a stout screw. The bar should set tight in the post, and about one inch space for air should be left between the scantling and stone. | - ii Always-Ready Gate.—We give an illusirated plan of an always-ready gate—a small gate for a barnyard or elsewhere, where a passageway is much . used. Itis very convenient. This gate swings in a Y- shaped inclosure, or in two sides ofa triangle. Having the top hinge the longest = and the post plumb, the gate, at rest, always hangs == in the center, and rightly - constructed will always = leaye a passageway of two ; feet. Cattle cannot get ALWAYS-READY GATE. through it, nor do we think . sheep will pass it. It is always shut and always open. It requires no watching to keep it closed, and will be found conyenient in many ways. FENCES AND GATES. 3i A Good Farm Ga‘e.—We present herewith an engraving of a good and serviceable farm gate, which may be easily and cheaply constructed as follows: > Four posts are set firmly in line, so that the front will be true. Measure fourteen feet, on line with those already set, and set the post the gate shuts against. Then place the sill for the gate to run on, fourteen or sixteen feet long, put down solid. The sill for the gate to run back on can be made of any light material that will sustain the weight of the gate. The sill should have about one inch down grade toward the shutting post, and be spiked fast to | | << TA . Fe SS 7 ye —— == = '- St ' . G LEE | NN SS Yj 2) SSS = i J ==z=\ Bes Uh ee eS SSS Ee — = A GOOD FARM GATE. the posts. The gate is made of any width Inmber, and long enough to lap four inches on the shutting posts, and about two feet on the groove post, to keep it shady. At the bottom, the gate must have two boards to support the bolts that the rollers turnon. These rollers should be six inches in diameter, an inch thick, to run on half-round iron, placed at a proper distance from the bottom board of the fence, so as to let the gate pass without rubbing. The iron rod should have holes punched so as to let twelve-penny nails through to nail to the sill, about two feet apart. Nail down the rod and it is ready for the gate. The gate is put together with sixteen two and one-half inch bolts and eight three and one-half inch bolts; the a three and one-half inch bolts go through three boards at the bottom. The rollers br, (as per drawing) go between the bottom —f boards close under the brace, so as to get ‘ a the bearing; the bolts should fit the rollers a ——— as tightas possible. These rollersintheir * —~ place, put up the gate on the rod, and run it back on the fence; mark the four posts A CHEAP GATE. one inch above the top of the gate; saw them off square, in line; place on top of the posts a joist twelve inches wide, two inches thick; let it project over in front of the gate far enough to clear it; now nail a six-inch strip on the edge of the joist, so that the top edge will be even with the top side of the joist; the four inches projecting down will serve as a groove for the gate to run in and keep it in its place; now spike the joist to the top of the post firmly; let the gate lap on the shutting post about four inches on half the posts; then nail the ends of the boards to the post occupy- ing the other half, so that the gate will shut against the butts, which will help sustain the post; now nail a board solid in line with the butts, and thick * ae Ba THE FARM. enough to project a quarter to a half inch from the gate; nail a stout board on the previous one, and let it project over about three inches toward the gate, and in line with the post, so as to makea groove for the gate to stand in. If it is properly shaped the gate will jam init and remain solid until it is removed back. A Cheap Gate.—This gate, illustrated on preceding page, is designed merely for farm use. Wood and metal or wire are combined in a novel manner in its con- struction. It may be cheaply made by un- skilled labor, and combines lightness with durability. The gate is compesed of two wooden uprights, one at the hinge end and | the other at the free end, two* horizontal | rails and an oblique brace connecting the } rods. An iron brace connects the upper end | of the inner upright, and is provided with | ! ; an eye which receives the pintle of upper hinge. Wires are stretched between the up- rights, forming a complete panel. This gate is very light, and at the same time simple and strong. Some Fancy Gates.—For the benefit of | | such readers as may be contemplating the luxury of a new front yard or garden fence, or, in fact, an ornamental fence of any de- scription, we present on this and the following page four neat and orna- mental designs of cheap, fancy framed gates, which any carpenter can make, and which may be used appropriately with almost any style of picket or even with iron fences. These gates are usually made three feet six or eight inches wide. The space between the posts for an i ' * ordinary door yard gate should be three teet ten inches. Thatis, however, a matter V, App Jf, y to be decided by convenience, and the use to which it is to be put. A wide gate is more \\ convenient than a narrow one, especially QQ AK where baby carriages and wheelbarrows are much used, and the gate is employed as a Vy és common and general entrance and exit by | VY FANCY GATES.—FIG. 1. the family for all purposes. To Preserve Fence Posts.—A _ cor- respondent at Benton Harbor, Mich., sends PiV-Y¥-V-V~ VV WV us the following statement by Parker Earle bo (a widely known horticulturist), in the FANCY GATES.—FIG. 2. Chicago Times, and requests our opinion of his mode for preserving fence posts. In answer, it may be stated that no single experiment, or no single series of experiments under like circum- stances, can be adopted as a rule for unlike conditions. For general appli- cation, we would recommend first impregnating the whole of the post with crude petroleum as a general preservative, and when dry apply hot tar to the portion going into the ground, but none above. The petroleum will penetrate the pores, and the tar coating will hold it there. The following is PENCES AND GATES. 83 Mr. Earle’s statement: “In building a fence around our young orchard, several years ago, we tried many plans for preserving the posts. Having occasion to remove the fence this winter, we noted the condition of the posts as follows: Those set with no preparation were decayed an inch or more in thickness; (> — % those coated with a thick wash of lime were better preserved, but were quite seriously attacked by worms; those posts coated with hot tar were perfectly sound as when first put into the ground; those painted with petroleum and kerosene were equally sotind, and as good as new. In future we shall treat all posts in the following manner before setting: Let the posts get thoroughly dry, and then, with a pan of cheap kerosene and a white- wash brush, give the lower third of the post, the part to go into the ground, two or three good applications of the oil, letting it soak in well cach time. Posts so treated will not be troubled by worms or insecis of any kind, but will resist decay to a remarkable degree. This we find to be the simplest, sasiest, cheapest, and best method of preservation.” —Country Gentleman. Easy Method of Taking Up Posts.—Wishing to take up fence posts, which were sound, and standing solid in heavy clay soil baked hard by drouth, a cor- ent made his head save his muscle: “T found that by pouring a pail of water around the post it may be very readily loosened by the hand. Then by hooking a chain about it loosely, slipping the noose down as far as possible below the surface of the ground, and hooking the other end of the chain around a piece of light scantling, near the center, to act as a lever, the post may be lifted out of its bed very easily.” A Good Fence.—Raise black walnut FANCY GATTS.— FI posts on the lot where they are wanted. If they grow fast they will do in from five to seven years. Use the barb wire. Black walnut injures crops less than almost any other tree. No stock will gnaw or hurt it. The roots run straight down, so you can plow against the trunk. It grows straight and tall, and has but few limbs. The working of the tree will not break the wire. Black wal- pet wi!l pay all expenses in a few years in fruit. Post and Rail Fences.—We give herewith plain directions, with appro- prince sketches, which we think will enable any ordinarily skillful farm-hand 4 take the simple machinery necessary for boring the holes in the posts, murtising them out, pointing the rails, digging the holes in the earth, and patting up a good and substantial rail fence. The posts are 7 1-2 feet long for a six-rail fence, which is the best and most generally used, and 3 to 4 inches thick by 7 to 8 inches wide. These posts are hewn out. The holesin the posts are oblong (up and down the post), and in size are 2 1-2x6 inches. 34 THE FARM. The rails are 9 1-2 feet long, and 5 to 6 inches wide by 2 to 3 inches thick on the bark edge, and a quarter to a half inch thick on the other edge. In building the fence the bark edge is placed down, as the thin edge sheds rain or snow more readily, which prevents rotting so rapidly. The rails lap in the holes about five or six inches, as shown in the section, Fig. 4. vO In making the posts the timber is cut into proper lengths, and then split in proper size and hewn, leay- ing the ground end for two feet rough and unhewn, giving a stout base. This part of the work is done in the forest, after which they are hauled home, and put in piles ready for boring. The mode of making the oblong holes in the post is shown in the cut (Fig. 1), a representing the post, thin edge up. Two holes are bored with a two-and- a-quarter-inch auger at the points shown by the holes in the post on the trestle at a. The auger holes are six inches apart from outside ta outside. The trestle frame is made of stout timber andl planks, as shown in the fig- ure. The planks are put on the benches edgewise, and fastened with stout pins. A plank is placed from one bench to the other for the post to rest on, and these benches are eleven and a half feet apart. In the two planks it will be seen that notches are sawed at points to cor- respond with the holes to be made by the auger. These notched planks are placed thirteen or fourteen inches apart, to enable the round or square wheel (see Figs. 1 and 5) to run easily in between them. The post is held on the plank firmly by stout wooden pins and wedges. The bottom holé in the post is made two inches above the ground level. The next hole is three inches from the top of the bottom hole; the next four inches above that; the next is five above that; and the top hole is six inches aboye the one below it. In boring the holes the auger, which is firmly fastened in the wheel, must be moved (wheel and all, cf course) into the proper notches, and in this way every post is bored on li Te) wh 8 NAMA N FIG. 1.—TRESTLE FRAME USED IN BORING THE PCSTS. ae a ‘ FENCES AND GATES. 5 alike, and all the holes in the post are the proper distance apart. After your posts are bored, the next step is to have a narrow-blade axe, with a short handle, as shown at c, Fig. 2 (2 common axe, would do, however), and with this mortise out the holes, which is done ets he the post flat- wise on the ground, or on a stout, low trestle, similar to the “ pointer” shown at Fig. 3. When one side is mortised half out, turn the post and finish. A good hand will bore and mortise fifteen posts a day with these tools. The rails for this kind of a fence are split out in the woods, 9 1-2 feet long, all of the same length. A good hand can cut down the tim-.- ber and split out one hundred of them in a day, in fair timber. They are hauled home gener- ally before being pointed. The ends of the rails should fill the holes as nearly as possible, so as to exclude moisture, the |) tighter the better. Pointing |) the rails is simple work. Two \ short-legged, stout trestles of any rough logs are placed about eight feet apart, as shown at Fig. 3, in each of which two large wooden pegs are driven to receive the rai), and between these pegs the rail is placed, thin edge up, and fastened in between the pegs with wedges of wood. They are now sharpened off to abont an inch thick for six to eight inches, the corners slightly nipped, and the work is done. A man will point over two hundred in a day. To make holes in the earth, a digger (see Fig. 2) is used. It is about ten inches long by five wide, made perfectly straight, and to weigh, handle and all, about twelve pounds. It is made of good iron, laid with the best steel. Any blacksmith can make one. They cost about $1.50, without handle. The - handle should be six feet FIG. 3.—TRESTLE FOR POINTING THE RAILS. long, and heavy. A club at one end would do for a ram- mer to run the dirt in the holes. In making the fence, set the first post firmly, and slip in one end of the rails, as shown at a, in Fig. 4. After the next hole is dug set the next post in, and before you put in the dirt place tke other enfl of the rails in on both sides, and drive; then fill up and ram firmly, and soon to the end. Drive the rails with a wooden maul. Never use an axe, When you come toa corner, you must have a large post with FIG. 2.—SHOVEL, AXE AND DIGGER. 86 THE FARM. holes in the sides—the other holes only half way through the post—to re- ceive the turn rails. In dig- ging the holes, a little prac- _ tice will enable you to throw = out over half of the dirt with the digger (see Fig. 2), es- pecially if the earth is tena- 2 cious. After that a long- —_ handled, small scoop shovel, FIG. 4.—SECTION OF THE SIX RAIL FENCE. 8 Shown at d, Fig. 2, will be found serviceable. We neglected to say that the handle to the auger is about 3 1-2 feet long,’ and can be, as it usually is, fas- - tened on by a blacksmith. The Square wheel shown in Fig. 5 is easily made, and is about 5 feet in diameter. The trestle (Tig. 1) is 31-2 feet high. The auger is put in the wheel and hung on the trestle precisely like an ordinary grindstone. As to the best materials for this fence, black locust is the best for posts, mulberry next, then white oak. For rails, white oak, ash, walnut, and cotton- wood, in the order named. Fence for Marsh or Soft Soil._The improvement we herewith illustrate is designed for bracing the common board fences built across low, marshy se ground, that is overflowed at nie Se ee eee every fall of rain. The work, or face side, of the fence is supposed to (and should) front up-stream; in the rear, and four feet from each post, is firmly driven into the ground a stake (K), left projecting one foot above the surface. This stake is connected with the fénce- post by strip (B), as indi- + cated. The strength of the | fence to resist the force of rushing water that may come in contact with it is in- creased tenfold. Where high winds are prevalent, fences may be braced in this way FENCE FOR MARSH OR SOFT SOIL, upon the leeward side, oe — a a FIELD CROPS. Wheat Shocks.—The illustrations portray the various methods prac- ticed for securing wheat, rye, oats, etc., in shocks, in which position they should be arranged. Wheat should be cut from five to ten days before maturity—that is, when about one-third of the chaff is yet green, or while many of the berries can be mashed between the thumb and finger. The points gained thereby are: By thus early reaping the grain is not as Hable to be prostrated by rain or high winds, and is not as liable to shell during the process of gathering. The grain secured by this process, and at the time indicated, is heavier, and the flour is better. Fig. 1 delineates a large, oblong shock which is made by placing ten sheaves ina double row, the bottom of each pair being a foot asun- der, set bracing and meeting atthe top, the whole covered by two sheaves, whose ends, each side of band, are so spread that when in position they will afford a more secure protection from rain, and render the liability to derangement in high winds much less. : F In Fig. 2 is shown a very WHEAT SHOCKS.—FIG. 1, good plan for securing a dozen or more sheaves ina round shock. Two caps are used, crossing at right angles above the center of the shock. Fig. 3 illustrates another mode of capping a round shock. But six sheaves should be placed upright in each shock, unless the straw be of extra length, as in the case of rye. Bind the caps securely near the butts, break- ing down all around before placing in proper position. The latter is a mode seldom practiced, yet highly recommended by many farmers. Should the sheaves be damp or contain slowly drying weeds, shock m the manner shown in Fig. 1, which exposes a greater area of each sheaf to the combined in- fluence of sun and air than by any other known process. ° Harvesting Wheat.—Wheat, when cut before the grain has passed from the milk to the dough state, will shrivel and give small measure and light weight. The straw will be more valuable for fodder, however, than if harvested later. On the other hand, if left to become over-ripe, the grains grow harsh and rough, and the bran will be so thick and brittle that no after manipulation of the kernels will bring the wheat in condition to make the best quality of fiour without carrying a large proportion of flour off with the bran, The cultivator’s safety lies, therefore, between the extremes of early and late cutting. In a word, harvest the crop when the grain has passed from the milky stage to a doughy one. If the wheat be cut when the grain reaches the dough state, the bran will be thin and elastic, and can be separated more readily from the flour than when dead ripe. In addition to the flour being finer, it will also be increased in quantity in consequence of the bran being lighter than when ripe. A saving of wheat is likewise gained, which otherwise would be lost by shelling in the field. The novice can ascertain the exact time when wheat and other small grain ought to be cut by opening heads in different portions of the field, and examining the ker- nels carefully. The straw near the ground will also proclaim the time for harvest by its yellow hue. Wheat cut in the dough AEAT SHOCKS.—FIG. 2. state ought not to be dried suddenly. It may be bound and stacked at once, or, if there is only a small quantity, drawn to the barn. Some farmers put it into small stacks. If stacked so that the wind and sun will not dry up ali the juices in the plant, enough of these will be slowly con- centrated in the seed to accomplish the maturity of the grain in perfection. If by rapid ripening in the sun the kernels are shrivelled, more bran is formed in proportion to the flour. A large class of farmers practice threshing from the shock and hauling grain direct to market. The advan- tages of this plan vary with the season. When the wheat has been bleached out by hot suns and repeated rains, it should be stacked and go through the “sweat.” During this process the straw and grain become damp and heat is evolved. At such times the” grain cannot readily be threshed, therefore it is not advisable to attempt it until both straw and grain are dry. WHEAT SHOCKS.—FIG. 3. Then it will be found that the berry has been restored to color and exhibits a plump appearance, having absorbed nutritive matter from the stalk. The grain has not only undergone a change for the better, but the straw is also improved in quality. It is suggested that farmers take time to look about for extra fine heads of wheat for future seed. It will also be wise to carefully note the results of Di {NAIM Lg al! FIELD CROPS. 39 the several varieties grown, with a view to comparing their respective merits, and selecting for another year's crop those sorts which promise best returns. When fertilizers have been used, it will also be well to mark the results. It is only by a careful comparison of different plants under different treatments that a farmer surely arrives at conclusions which best suit the special require- ments of his land and his location. How to Stack Straw.—We give an illustration showing how straw can be stacked so that it will be preserved from spoiling, and at the same time answer for a shelter to protect stock from the storms. The pen should be two or three logs high (or higher, if the logs are small), and large enough to correspond with the quantity of straw. Then set fence rails or poles all around inside of the pen, as represented. It can be built at the tail end of the threshing machine, so that the straw can fall in it. It will require less hands to stack. Draining Wheat Fields.—Ifno other method has been devised for drain- ing wheat fields, which are sometimes too wet, it will pay to plow furrows from the lowest spot to some lower point outside. Every i wheat grower knows that if water is al- lowed to stand upon the ground late in the fall, the crop will not only be direct- ly injured thereby, but will also be liable to be severely damaged by “winter kill- ing,” and it should be the : aim to prevent, as far as HOW TO STACK STRAW. possible, both of these evils. A heavy rain will do little damage to a wheat field if provision is made for the prompt removal of the surplus water, while a moderate rainfall upon undrained land which is already too wet will cause the destruction of many of the plants, and largely reduce the possible yield of the crop. While thor- engh drainage is much better than any makeshift which can be invented, it is much better to adopt the very imperfect plan recommended above than it is to make no provision for the protection of the crop from injury by an ex- cess of moisture in the soil. Weevil in Wheat.—A correspondent of an agricultural paper says: “Some years ago, hearing complaint of weevil in wheat about the close of harvest, when I was ricking my wheat, I got fresh slaked lime and threw over the rick in building it—laying two courses of sheaves, then lime sufii- cient to whiten the stack. A neighbor who threshed his wheat from the shock came to me a few days after, and said he should lose his wheat, for it was alive with weevil. I told him to throw lime over it, and shovel it through his wheat, which he did. Two days later there was not a weevil seen in it.” 40 HH PARM: Wheat Maxims in Small Compass.—The following information abotit wheat growing has been condensed: 1. The best soil for wheat is rich clay loam; 2. Wheat likes a good, déep, soft bed; 3. Clover - _ turned under makes just such a bed; 4. The best seed is oily, heavy; plump, and clean; 5. About two inches is the best depth for sowing the seed; 6. The drill puts in the seed better and cheapet than broadcasting; 7. Fiom the middle of Sep- tember to the last of Octo- ber is the best time for sow- ing; 8. Drilled, one bushel of seed per acre; if sown broadcast, two bushels per acre; 9. One heavy rolling after sowing does much s good; 10. For flour, cut * when the grain begins to harden; for seed, not until it has hardened. An Ohio Corn Crib.— We give an illustration (Fig. 1) of a very convenient and substantial double corn crib, with a wagon shed between. Such a crib can be built any size, and filled with grain, without the least sign of weakness. One is a brace for the other, and the more grain you have in it the firmer it will be. It is use- less to explain how the tim- bers should be put together, and where every door should be cut out, when one glance at the illustration will an- swer. Fig. 2 represents the double doors made to corre- spond with the entrance of the shed. The doors, when shut, are fastened to a piece of scantling, standing per- pendicular—-one entering the beam, the other enter- ing a block put in the ground. The foundation can be of wood or stone, as suits best. This is what we call the ‘Ohio Dutch Yan- kee corn crib.” Hilling Injarious to Corn.—Oareful experi- ments have proved that corn which is hilled will blow down more readily than that which has level culture, This can be accounted for by the fact FIELD CROPS, “ that corn roots run very near the surface, and when hills are made they are confined to the small space covered by the hill; while in level culture the roots run from one row to the other, thus enabling the corn to stand strong, as nature intended, and in no way liable to be blown down, except by winds of unusual violence. A Convenient Corn Crib.—We illustrate a very convenient style of corn crib, which, while costing but a mere trifle more than an ordinary crib, pos- gesses some of the main advantages of a corn house; namely, a space pro- tected from the weather sufficient to accommodate a team with a wagon load ofcorn. At the proper season the grain may be shelled therein, and it is an excellent place to shelter a lumber wagon. The plan needs but little expla- nation. It is simply two cribs placed side by side, and facing each other. The cribs and space between them are covered by one roof. The cribs should be about four feet wide at the bottom, and grow broader as they rise, the taper being on the outside; the projecting roof throws the water clear of the crib. The height should be sufficient to allow easy shoveling of the corn from the wagon into the top of the crib. If one wishes to make it rat- proof, it may be elevated on posts, capped with inverted tin pans; but in that case it would hardly do to store toolsinit. Some would suggest a floor and doors, which can easily be added to the plan, if desired. The best ma- terial is sawed scantlings for a frame, and three or four-inch-wide strips for siding. The roof may be made of matched boards. In case it should be of the crib with matched stuff to the height of the eaves. SS to floor and hang doors, it would be well to board up the inside Seed Corn.—No one will deny that great care should be observed in se- lecting seed corn to plant, and yet numbers of farmers never see their seed corn until it is carried to the field at planting-time. We think the best plan is to place a barrel in a corner of the crib, and throw in it every large and vigorous ear. Shell off about two inches of the large ends, in order to get the largest and most prolific grains. This produces a large and healthy plant, that grows much faster than small ones do. Many farmers may think it quite a tedious job to select every ear of corn planted in this way; but they 42 THE FARM. will not find it so after giving it a trial, and selecting as much as possible on ‘ rainy days. This plan, once adopted, will ever be adhered to afterward. Tryit; you will not regret it, but find it re- munerative, Cheap Corn Cribs.— There are many farmers who follow a mixed husbandry, and who raise comparatively small quantities of corn, who cannot afford to pay much for structures used for this pur- pose. For such we herewith give directions, accompanied with drawings, showing how a cheap and yet suitable crib may be made. The elevation (Fig. 1) is CORN ORIBS.—FIG. 1, an excellent crib. The sills are four by six inches, framed; if only a small crib is needed, it will only be necessary to bore two-inch holes at each corner, and one intermediate, and insert sharpened sticks three inches square, to which secure slats horizontally, three-quarters of an CORN CRIBS.—FIG. 2, inch apart. As this structure has but one door, it is best to divide the room in two parts, the best or sound corn to be put in the near compartment, and the poor corn in front, where it may be first fed out. “A still cheaper plan Po rary Uae) Sots 1 Meee TN NIEHS at PR Pere CORN CRIBS.—FIG, 3. of construction is to use poles or small logs, secured together in the form shown in Fig. 2. This is an exceedingly cheap and expeditious manner of constructing a corn crib. If properly done, it will last for years, is easy of FIELD CROPS. 43 tc ta cma aia pai daa ta ca a expensive. ‘ Wald gives a uide view of x orth constructed of poles or logs, showing the _ manner of splicing at A, A, the logs midway between the supports. Pin or | nail the logs at the point of joining. In this way log cribs several hundred feet in length are often constructed. Z The Enemies of Corn.—lis enemies in the field, the bin, and the mill are numerous. Among its bird foes the crow is most dreaded by the farmer. He is a bold, saucy fellow, well endowed with bird sense, and soon _ sees a scare-crow is a humbug. The common devices used for this purpose _ —an open newspaper, bright tin, a clapping wind-mill, an effigy, ete., are _ effective only for a short time, when something new must be found. A prac- tical farmer suggests that early planting will circumvent him, since he is not particularly an early bird. Another claims that the use of a planter which covers the seed and presses down the earth upon it has been a perfect de- fense for him. He has seen twenty crows pulling away after the corn had _ got above the ground, and found they had nipped the tops off, yet could not _ get the kernel up. Great damage is often done to the corn crop by a corn-worm ( Heliothus _ Armiga), identical with the boll-worm, so injurious to the cotton crop. The _ parent of the worm is a moth of brownish-yellow color, wit dark brown or _ black markings. The caterpillar is green with black stripes and dark spots, and is covered with hairs. When full grown it measures about one and one- halfinches. It is extremely voracious, though not particularly dainty, since S. : it eats whatever comes in its way. Peas, stringed beans, tomatoes, pump- kins, cotton or corn are all one to his greedy appetite. The moth deposits its eggs upon the corn silk, and the young caterpillars soon work their way down to the tender kernel. When the caterpillar attains its full size it __ descends into the soil a few inches and there weaves its cocoon. Two or _ more broods are produced each year. Birds and parasites destroy this _ insect both as worm and moth. Men destroy it by means of torches, lamps and lanterns, sometimes arranged over dishes of oil or water, into which it _ falls and drowns. Plates of vinegar and molasses put among the corn will entrap many them. _ Aphis Maidis, a litile plant louse, infests corn and lives upon its juices. _ The eggs, which are laid in the ground, hatch in May, when the lice gather upon the roots, and here remain until the roots harden so that they are driven to the stem and tassels, where they are found in great numbers about July. Their presence can be easily detected by an army of red ants dancing attendance upon them, since they wear two black honey-tubes standing up like horns on the upper and hinder part of the abdomen, which secrete a saccharine fluid, of which the ants are very fond. They have a curious history of reproduction. The female deposits her eggs in the ground and dies. The brood are wingless females, and without the intervention of the male bring forth alive another female brood. _ These do likewise, and so continue for five or six or more generations, _ The last brood are both males and females. These pair again, and deposit _ their eggs, which remain over winter in the ground, and the next spring _ begin the same round over again. It is claimed that nothing but cropping against them is of any avail. _ The corn-stalk borer is a comparatively new enemy, or, at any rate, has - been only lately described. The moth is of an ashy-gray color, and probable 44 THE FARM. lays her eggs néar the base of the leaf where the leaf is sheathed arotind the stalk. The worm is orange yellow, with rows of reddish warts, and a flat; black head, with which it bores its way into the stalk. It sheds its skin four times before it attains full growth. The cocoon is woven within the stalk, and the moth makes its exit through the holes bored by the worm. Three or more broods are produced each year. It hibernates in stalks and stubble. The stalks not eaten by stock should be burned early in February, and the stubble should be plowed up and burned, or plowed under very deeply. Curing Corn Fodder.—Much corn fodder is spoiled while being cured. A good way to prevent this is to set firmly in the ground a small stake or large-sized bean-pole, around which a few armfuls of corn is set, and bound securely near the top. This makes a firm center around which to build. Then set up more corn, placing it evenly all around, and leaning it no more than is necessary to have it stand. When enough is placed to make a large stock, all that can cure, draw a rope, with a slip noose in one end, around the stock as tight as convenient, using a step-ladder to stand upon if the corm is very tall. An assisfant can now bind with a straw band or with selected stalks, after which the rope may be removed. If doing the work alone, the ° - rope can be tied while the band is being put on. Corn fodder well put up in this way may be kept, if desired, in the field till winter. Saving Seed Corn.—To save seed corn successfully in a cold climate, you should not keep it in a warm place, or especially where it is warm but a part of the time, as there is danger that the changes of temperature may de- stroy the germinative power. Continued warmth is also conducive to de- composition, which will destroy the life of the seed. Corn and similar seeds are best kept in a dry, cool room, where the temperature is uniform. Whén your seed from the ‘‘small pile over the living-room” failed to germinate, the cause was probably due to both dampness and warmth, which incited incipient decay. Seeds differ greatly in the degree of cold they will endure without losing vitality. Corn has germinated after having been subjected to the most intense cold of the polar regions, and an experiment is reported in which other seeds germinated after having been frozen into a cake of ice. Corn Culture.—‘‘ The suckers,” says H. M. Engle, in a prize essay, ‘should, under all circumstances, be taken off before they appropriate too much substance which the main stalks should receive, but under no cireum- stances allow suckers to tassel, for, whatever pains may be taken to bring or keep corn at its greatest perfection by selection of seed, the pollen from the sucker may undo what has been gained by years of careful selection. I would as soon think of breeding from a scrub male to a thoroughbred ani- mal as to have the pollen from suckers cast upon an excellent variety of corn. It is also well known that the pollen from a neighboring field is oft- times carried to an almost incredible distance, and consequently may cause more mixture than is desirable.” Points on Corn.—Deep plowing among growing corn after the roots have met in the rows is disastrous; “‘root pruning” is a mistake; to break the roots checks the growth, and in hot, dry weather deep cultivation will surely cause the corn to curl, showing injuring and suffering, while shallow working will keep it fresh and green. As soon as a crust is formed on the soil, it should be broken up to admit both moisture and air, for the one dis- solves the fertilizing matter which is in the soil, and the latter effects its de- FIELD CROPS. 45 and renders it soluble/ So that after a rain, which has crusted _ the surface, the cultivator should be started as soon as the soil is dry enough; this tends to hold the moisture and prevent speedy evaporation. Raising Good Corn in a Dry Season.—“Some Yankee,” says a prac- tical farmer, “ will ask, ‘How do you raise good corn ina drouth? Tl tell. I plowed and rolled my ground, spread my manure on, and harrowed it in; put a handful of hen manure and fine bone composted in the hill; cultivated it flat; did not hill any. When the drouth came, cultivated, but very shal- low; the result was a good crop. On another plot the manure was spread on the sod and turned under without any fertilizer in the hill, and was al- most a failure. My neighbors report that they have very fair corn on land _ that the manure was spread on after plowing and fertilizing in the hill.” Husking.—Some people who husk corn throw the shock upon the - spread it out, and go to work on their knees. They know no better. ; “If they will make a frame four feet wide and long enough to hold a shock _ after itis spread out, with a board in the middle running lengthways to sit on, they will find they have done a sensible thing. The frame may be eigh- _ teen inches high, or any other height they may like better. _ Cabbages with Corn.—A writer in the Fruit Recorder says that one of es his neighbors planted some cabbage among his corn where the corn missed, and the butterflies did not find them. He has therefore come to the conclu- sion that if the cabbage patch were in the middle of the corn patch, the but- _terflies would not find them, as they fly low and like plain sailing. Potato Culture.—Desiroying the potato beetle, says the American Cul- -tivator, and its even more destructive larve, has come to be the most im- portant point in the successful growing of potatoes. Paris green is the com- mon = Rages employed, though London purple is cheaper, equally effective, _ and has the advantage, when used with water, of being soluble, while Paris és green, under similar conditions, is insoluble. It does not follow, however, _ because these poisons will do the work, that every grower can make them ; effective. In their indiscriminate use the inexperienced cultivator to do more harm than good. The young potato shoot is very tender, _ and either Paris green or London purple applied in too strong doses will “burn the vines. If the vines be injured at this early stage of their growth fr n any cause, the resultant crop will be greatly diminished. Ps eS: For nearly all early planted potatoes, when the vine grows slowly, hand Picking to destroy the first crop of beetles is very important. It should be formed as soon as the shoots are up, and, if possible, before any eggs are In a potato-growing section, where old beetles from last year’s hatch by the thousands, this indeed involves considerable labor. In fact, such a locality it is not easy to grow early potatoes on a large scale. From a few short rows in a garden we have picked up by count between eight hundred and nine hundred beetles on a warm, sunshiny half-day, just 3 the potatoes were coming up. The next day the process was repeated, ith nearly half as many beetles secured, while more or less in number 8 gathered every subsequent day fora week. It was just at the time the etles were coming out of the ground, and the garden potatoes being early - planted, attracted all the beetles in the neighborhood. It is of little avail to attempt to poison these beetles in the spring. Occasionally one will eat as ‘expected, but the majority are too busy propagating and laying eggs to 46 THE FARM. attend to anything else. It is the fact that beetles are very numerous in spring, together with the difficulty in destroying them by poison, which frightens so many from the business. The inexperienced grower is apt, as soon as he finds his vines infested, to prepare a dose of poison, making it of very great strength, so as to make certain of killing the enemy. In nine cases out of ten the tender vines are injured, and the beetles are seldom appreciably diminished in numbers. With close hand picking at first, and a reserving of the poison until the larve make their appearance, the result is very different and much more satisfactory. The main crop of potatoes should be planted late—that is, if large quan- tities are to be grown. Planting a few in the garden or somewhere else, as a bait to draw the first beetles, greatly lessens the subsequent work. Eyen in the same field the potato beetle is more destructive on some varieties than on others. Those who have grown the Magnum Bonum say it is especially liable to attack. Grown alongside other varieties, the bugs sin- gled ont this, while the others largely escaped. It has been suggested that one or two rows of this kind be planted around the potato field as a protec- tion to the main crop. On the other hand, it is said the Early Gem is | especially distasteful to the bugs. There is probably some difference in the ’ comparative liability of different varieties to this insect attack. We have generally found, however, that the larger growing varieties and the strongest hills of the same variety are least injured. It is possible to plant on highly- manured ground, with seed so vigorous that its rapid growth will largely reduce the cost of fighting the bugs. The female beetle instinctively chooses a vine that is a feeble grower on which to deposit her eggs. Where the vine is full of sap, either the eggs will not be laid or many of them will fail to hatch. We hope very much, from the results of recent experiments, in dis- covering the true way to cut potato seed. If the proper cutting of potato seed will insure greater vigor or growth, many of the difficulties in fighting the potato beetle will be overcome. It should not be forgotten that the potato grower has insect friends as well as enemies. All kinds of lady-bugs eat the eggs of the potato beetle. It is the abundance of these lady-bugs about old apple orchards that often makes potato growing successful near an orchard when the field crop will be entirely destroyed. There are several varieties of insects that prey on the potato larve. Farmers who use no poison sometimes find dead potato bug larve on their vines. .These dead specimens should always be left undis- turbed, as in all probability they are filled with eggs of the parasite that has destroyed them, only needing opportunity to hatch and continue the good work. On general principles, if any insect is found in the potato field whose habits are not known, it is best to leave it undisturbed, since it is quite probably a friend engaged in destroying the farmer’s enemies. Entomolo- gists have discovered thirty or more insect enemies of the potato bug in its various stages of growth, and there are probably others not yet known. But for these friendly insects difficulties in growing potatoes would be much greater than those which now prevail. Phosphate for Potatoes.—Wm. 'T’. Woerner, of New Brunswick, N. J., writes: ‘‘In planting potatoes I have used no other manure than phosphate of some reliable brand, for the last ten years, and in that time I have not had a grub-eaten potato where I put the phosphate. All my potatoes grow as smooth as a bottle, and of a large, salable size. I never use stable manure of any kind on potatoes now, I would not put it on if it was given to me, a aie --—-_ = ee eee i FIELD CROPS. "7 - and I had to pay fifty dollars per ton for phosphate. My neighbors have tried it with a like result. It is a very cheap fertilizer; on good ground 1 only use about two bags per acre (400 lbs.), which is a good manuring on ordinary soil. I have raised four hundred bushels to the acre with nothing but phosphate, applied in the row.” A Handy « Bug-Catcher.”—Although it is now the custom of most of our farmers to rid their crops of that terrible pest, the potato bug, by Paris green poisoning, still we think the following illustrated sketch of a bug- catcher, sent by a gentleman who has used the contrivanee with great suc- cess, will prove interesting and profitable to our readers. He says: “* With I use for catching Colorado beetles, any one can do as much work aa or four people collecting the pests, according to the ordinary methoa CONTRIVANCE FOR CATCHING THE POTATO BEETLE. _ ofhand picking. The pan is made of tin, and any tinman can fashion it. It _ is a box or pan, two feet long, one foot wide, and six inches deep. The bot- tom should be round, or cylindrical, so that the rim of the pan can be got _ close to the ground when the vines are small. Stiffen the edge with wire. _ On the inside, at the top, solder a rim or flange about three-quarters of an _ inch wide. This should slant downward somewhat, as its object is to pre- vent the ‘bugs’ from crawling out when once they have gone in. On one _ side of the pan solder or rivet a handle, such as those on common tin milk- c pails. On the same side as the handle solder a shield of tin eighteen inches _ high, and of the same length as the pan, slanting backward a little. The edges should be stiffened with wire. About four inches from the top of the shield, and in the center, solder a loop or ring large enough to admit the arm to the shoulder. In using, insert the left arm through the loop, and re “ ee 48 THE FARM. grasp the lower handle with the hand, then, holding the pan close up to the — vines and near the ground, with a crooked stick, like the one represented, . gather the vines over the pan, giving them a smart shake against the shield and over the pan. A good, active man, with this contrivance, can ‘ bug’ an acre of potatoes effectively in two hours.” The Potato Disease.—There are many devices suggested for avoiding the disease known as potato rot. There is one made by an English writer, who says it has been found that “by hilling the plants up very high as soon as the blight appears, the spores are prevented in a great measure from being washed down by the rains, and the rot consequently much di- minished. It was found that although the spores were readily washed downward through one or two inches of earth, they very rarely reached a depth of five inches. The experiment was repeated many times with the uniform result that where the plants were not hilled up, and the tubers lay but one or two inches deep, the percentage of rot was very large. But where the tubers were covered to the depth of five inches, the damage from the disease was inconsiderable.” If a physician were to say to a patient having the small-pox that if the lower part of the body were swathed in _ wet sheets the disease would not get down to the legs and feet, it would be _ a parallel suggestion to this. The rot is a disease which infects the whole plant. It has been found that when the disease began in the tops at a late _ stage of the growth, mowing off the diseased tops saved the tubers. This is something like amputating a gangrened limb to save the body, and is a rea- sonable remedy. But the spores are not always, and are in fact rarely, ripe at the season of growth, and are generally in the soil and infect the plant from the roots. The tubers are not roots, but stems, and receive the infec- tion from the roots when the source of it is in the soil. When the leaves are infected by spores, carried in the air from distant fields, where they have re- mained during the resting season, the disease spreads through the tissues of the plant and reaches the tubers in that way, from within, and not from without. The spores are not free until the plant decays, being set free by the decomposition of the diseased tissues. This being distinctly known, it becomes of the greatest importance to destroy the infected vines by burning them, and thus preventing the soil from infection by the matured spores in the leaves and stems. Earthing up the potatoes might possibly haye helped to preserve the tubers from the disease by removing the water from the saturated soil; this water being injurious to the plant and producing all the conditions favorable to the spread of the disease. A more healthful condi- tion of the plants would tend to prevent this unhealthful condition and con- fine the disease to the leaves and stems, and save the tubers. But every one who has had diseased potatoes, knows that tubers, apparently sound when dug, will rot in the cellar. This is because the disease is already in them when they are dug, and develops in them in the course of time from . the infection. Earthing up cannot save them then, nor can it at any other imy excepting through its influence in the way we have pointed out. But heré, where our seasons are not so wet, it would not avail us as it might the farmers of sodden England or Scotland or Ireland, where ‘‘ the rain it rain- eth every day,” more or less. This difference of climate is very important to be remembered when considering such matters as this from an English view. Methods of Raising Potatoes.—There is, writes a practical farmer, a great variety of opinion in regard to raising potatoes, size of seed, and culti- so ’ FIELD CROPS. 49 | developed? Also, why screen wheat, oats, etc., to secure the plumpest and 7 best seed to plant orsow? (At least we should if we donot.) We thereby raise a better quality of grain, and more of it, from year to year. I do not wish any one to infer that we should take the largest potatoes for seed, but if those of a good marketable size, of nice shape, free from warts, scabs or other ity. ; Having my seed selected, I cut them to single eyes, or at most two, and them in drills three feet apart, and fifteen inches apart in the drills, having the drills deep, in well-plowed and thoroughly pulverized soil. I prefer a piece that had corn on the previous year, well manured and plowed in for that crop, and kept under good cultivation during the season. On po- tatoes I use some good commercial fertilizer that has plenty of potash in it, and use it liberally—400 to 500 pounds per acre. This will help keep the wire-worms away, and will increase the potatoes in size and quality, Iam _ quite certain. I harrow, as soon as I see the first planis breaking the = ground, with a smoothing harrow, to kill all the weeds that may have _ started. I cultivate often, whether there are any weeds or not, until they - arein blossom. I have never failed to raise a good crop of nice smooth po- tatoes, and there was always a ready market for them. I often get consid- erable more than market price for them, which is quite an advantage in a plentiful season. My crop averaged about 500 bushels per acre last sea- son. How to Keep Sweet Potatoes.—A Texas writer says: I would like to __ give my plan for keeping sweet potatoes. I think the most essential thing _ is to dig them at the proper time, and I think that time is about the full moon in October (that is, in Texas). No matter about the weather, unless _ the ground is-too wet. I never wait for frost; but if frost comes before the _ fall moon, dig as soon as possible, or at least before any rain. I dig witha _ buill-tongue plow; but any way, so they are not cut or bruised too much, will do. In gathering them, sort out the cut ones; but before putting up _ let them have at least one day's sun. If the ground is wet, two days is _ better; but in no case let them take the dew of the night. I put them in a _ Bhallow cellar under some house, say from three to four feet deep. After they sre put away, throw s little fine, dry dirt over them, just enough to dust over the cuis. That will cause them to dry and not commence rotting. Let them lay that way till the weather begins to turn cool. Then begin to _coyer up as the weather gets colder, till they are from ten to twelve inches deep; in all cases cover with dry dirt. I differ with those who want straw or leaves under potatoes; I want them on the ground. _ When they are banked outdoors they should be on an elevated place, or throw up the dirt so water will not stand about them. Put the potatoes on the naked ground, about twenty-five or thirty bushels in a bank; set up corn _ stalks around them; then throw some grass or leaves on the stalks; bank up _ enough of dirt against the stalks to hold them. Let them stand that way _ till the weather begins to get cool; then begin to cover. When the weather _ gets very cold they should be covered at least twelve inches; but in warm ee ie — 50 THE FARM. weather they should have a little air at the top. In all cases have them well sheltered; a very small leak will ruin a bank of potatoes. Points About Potatoes.—In the judgment of the South Deerfield (Mass.) Farmers’ Club, potatoes, when properly cared for, are, next to tobacco, the best paying crop a farmer can raise. The trouble is, potatoes - are too often neglected and receive attention only when other crops are cared for. Turf land is the best, except in very dry seasons. Plow in the fall and harrow in a good coat of manure in the spring. Furrow out, and in the hills apply ashes and tobacco stalks cut about six inches long, at the rate of sixteen loads per acre. Twelve hundred pounds of fish and potash to the acre, harrowed in, with a little phosphate in the hill, produced a good crop. More attention should be given to selecting good seed potatoes. Use good-sized smooth tuber cut into four pieces. Change the seed every year or two. The Early Rose is the best kind for home use. Peerless, Beauty of Hebron, and Burbank Seedling give larger yields, but are inferior in quality. The Snowflake bakes well. Early Vermont resembles Early Rose, and is better in yield and quality. Hoeing potatoes is best done with a horse-hoe or tobacco-ridger. Go through the piece three times with a horse-hoe, and you wouldn’t need to put a hoe into it; that is, on smooth land free of stones. To get ahead of the bugs, cover the potato tops about an inch deep as soon as they are up; in about a week cut a lot of small potatoes into four or more pieces and wet them and sprinkle Paris green on them, stirring well until the pieces are covered with it; scatter these pieces over the field, and the beetle will eat them and die. If all do not partake of this wholesome diet and slugs ap- | pear, apply Paris green mixed with plaster. Potatoes are a paying crop at fifty or sixty cents a bushel, and the small ones are excellent to feed hogs, stock, and horses. Getting Potatoes Early.—Some years ago, writes a correspondent of the Gardenei’s Monthly, I conceived the idea of planting my potatoes with shoots to them. Probably the sprouts suggested the idea; at any rate I car- ried out the plan, and have been so well pleased with it that I have followed it out for three years. A few weeks before planting time I select my seed potatoes, and set them in a warm place to sprout. By the time my ground is ready the shoots are about three inches in length. The potatoes are handled carefully, so as not to break the growth, and cut up in suitable sizes, as in the ordinary way. One strong shoot is left to each piece. The » sets must be put into the ground carefully, of course, or the shoots will be broken off. As growth commences at once, the green tops show in a few days. There is easily a saving of two weeks time at the start. ‘Those who have rather a low ground, which cannot be worked very early in spring, us I have, will find this method will enable them to compete with their neigh- bors on higher ground, with success. By July 10th, I was using fine Beauty of Hebrons (an excellent early sort by the way), planted April 25th. They were not then fully ripe, though the yellow tint in the leaves was getting quite perceptible. Generally the tops are dead at this date, but an unusu- ally fine potato season kept them growing later this year. Raising Potatoes.—The following suggestions are from a practic farmer: | select a piece of suitable ground in the fall. Sod is best. Mx- nure it heavily with good barnyard manure, and plow under so as to lei 1. ee re Me's i a Pe PIELD CROPS. 51 sod rot before cold weather; then in the spring I manure with well-reded re en aay ck cnn guy faroe Aaah coat pletely incorporated with the soil; then one way and plant two pieces in a place about one foot apart, about four inches deep. Then, just as the potatoes begin to break ground, I harrow thoroughly, then cultivate till it is time to lay by; then I use a single-shovel plow to hill them with; keep all weeds down—they are death to potatoes. I have raised from 450 to 500 bushels to the acre in favorable seasons. Now, as to the seed: I cut to a single eye; I would as soon think of plant- ing a whole ear of corn in a hill as a whole potato. I have often, in case ofa new kind, cut the eye cluster into three or four pieces, and had a good hill from each piece. As to time of planting, I always try to get my whole crop in for early potatoes. I believe the earlier they can be got in the more cer- tainty of a good crop. As to kinds, I have raised legions of them, but for early, the Beauty of Hebron; for medium, the Burbank’s Seedling and the Mammoth Pearl; and for late, the Belle and the Late Rose, Of course, others are good and may do better in other places. New Remedy for Potato Bugs.—aA farmer successfully tried a remedy for potato bugs, as follows: He procured a number of boards and placed _ them here and there among his potatoes, and on these boards were placed raw potatoes sliced. At noon on the first day of the experiment he and his hired men found every piece of potato covered with bugs. The men killed this crop, and at night another crop was killed, though not so large, and in a week not a bug could be seen, and his trouble with bugs after this was small. He thinks it would be a good plan to dip the pieces of potato in Paris green, as it would save the work of killing the bugs. Potatoes in Winter.—Potatoes stored in cellars, in some cases, rot. To check or prevent this, keep the cellar as cool as possible without freez- ing. Then scatter quick-lime over them. This is of threefold benefit. It keeps them from rotting, makes the potatoes dryer and better, and disin- fects the atmosphere, preserving the family from malarial fevers. Experiments in Plowing.—Mr. Knox, a veteran plow-maker, has called our attention to the effect of deep plowing of some soils to offset ‘the danger from lack of rains in dry seasons. Some years ago an experi- ment was made by a Western Massachusetts farmer in plowing portions of a large field at varying depths. One part was turned over seven inches another ten inches, and a third, after being plowed ten inches, was sub- _ Boiled to the depth of ten inches more, making a soil comparatively loose to the depth of twenty inches. The next year, which was a dry one during _ the summer, corn was grown upon the whole field, which was treated unis _ formly throughout, and the yield of the three divisions carefully measured. _ The seven-inch plowing yielded as well as the ordinary fields in the vicinity. _ That part plowed ten inches deep was greener all through the season, and _ gave decidedly better yield, but that which was plowed ten inches, and sub- _ soiled ten inches in addition, produced just one-third more corn than that plowed in the usual way, seven inches deep. The next year the whole field was by agreement sowed to oats, as a continuation of the experiment, the Season proving even drier than the preceding one, when corn was grown. _ When the oats were about ready to cut, Mr. Knot, being in the neighbor- hood, called to see them. Before reaching the farm, the field came in view from the car windows, and Mr. Knox, who was on the lookout, said te 52 THE FARM. a companion, that the gentleman had not done as he agreed, for he could see that he had sown different kinds of grain upon the different plots, the size and color of the growth both marking the lines, dividing the land plowed at three different depths. But on arriving at the field he found nothing but — oats, and as stated by the owner, all sown on the same day, and treated pre- cisely alike in every respect. On the shallow plowed section, the growth was short and the straw yel- low; on the ten-inch plowing the oats were taller and less yellow, while on the sub-soiled portion they were green and very heavy. The final tests showed full one-third more grain on the sub-soiled part than on that which was plowed only seven inches deep. Now, it will not do for farmers to calculate that deeply stirring every kind of soils would alone add fifty per cent. in the yield of crops grown upon them the following two years, for they would doubtless be disappointed in very many cases. Yet, as arule,a deep, mellow soil from which surplus water can readily settle without making the land into mortar, and through which the same moisture can again freely rise by capillary attraction, other things being equal, will always bring a farmer the better results. There are soils which naturally are never too wet, and rarely too dry, and it will usually be found on examination, that they are in the same mechani- cal condition for a considerable depth, say two feet or more, that one likes to have his surface soil, light, friable, and containing a due proportion of vege- table matter. They will also be found to contain sand and clay in about the right proportion to keep the soil both mellow and moist through the varying climatic conditions. Deep plowing of stiff clays is often dangerous at first; but a good dry soil suits all kinds of crops in all kinds of weather. Deep plowing tends to make sucha soil, but this alone will not always be sufficient. . Draining and manuring must accompany deep plowing. Early or Late Fall Plowing.—There is this against early fall plow- ing, that it favors the springing up of grass and weeds, which necessitates re- plowing in the spring. The fall rains, should they be heavy, will pack the surface of clay soil, which the frost that follows does not always relieve, and never if pressed during the winter by a deep snow. This not only compels plowing in the spring, but the soil then turns up rough, and generally too wet and sticky, and also it is necessarily done late in the season, so that fall plowing, instead of benefiting, hurts it, and the crop for the season is lost or seriously affected—the land showing it for a year or two more. But as the season is now advanced, there is little danger from the rains; the land would rather be benefited by them. Late plowing, therefore, isin order. Land ordinarily the wettest can now be plowed to the greatest advantage. It requires more power to break it, but the improved condition in the spring will more than pay the expense. This is a point not sufficiently considered. If late fall plowing is an advantage, better still if it can be done in winter or early in spring, so as to be followed by freezing and thawing. My best success has been obtained by winter and early spring plowing. Yet there is hardly a year in which one of the three seasons—either late in the fall, during the winter or early in the spring—is not available. To make as sure as pos- sible, do the work in the fall, if the ground will admit, but avoid making mortar. The same applies to winter and early spring. Other soils, especially.the sand and leachy shales, have less to fear * from water; they are also less benefited by the frost. They are the soils, therefore, that may be left unplowed till spring. One of the difficulties with — See ee ee ate laf tah it te re 4 ” PIFELD CROPS. oa ‘pring plowing is that it does not allow of the winter application of manure, should it be required, though with an early spring and favorable weather, this may be done without interfering much with the work which requires all the time. The aim should be always to get the plowing done near to winter (or in it) as possible, so as to get the benefit of the freezing and thawing, and avoid the packing of the heavy rains. The Philosophy of Hoeing.—It may be overdone or underdone. There is reason in everything, “‘even in roasting eggs,” as the saying is. So in hoeing crops. If we hoe up the soil in large lumps, as we are apt to do with the very serviceable modern prong-hoes, we let the keen, dry air into cone tact with the starting but enfeebled roots, and, by their parching, an irre- parable injury is done. Such lumps should be crushed down so as to be permeable to air throughout, and yet serve to protect the roots from its free sweep. But, as in avoiding Scylla we may run to wreck on Charybdis, so, in crushing the soil, we may make it too fine, in which case the first heavy rain will run the surface together in a crust impervious to the air, and, for want of enough of air, essential to active root action, growth will be checked until the hoe or its equivalent is used. Quantity of Seed to an Acre.—The following should be kept for reference: ‘Barley, broadcast, two to three bushels; bean, pole, in hills, ten to twelve quarts; beets, in drills, five to six pounds; broom corn, in hilla, eight to ten quarts; buckwheat, one bushel; cabbage, in beds, to transplanr, half pound; carrots, in drills, three to four pounds; Chinese sugar cane twelve quarts; clover, red, alone, fifteen to twenty pounds; clover, alsike, alone, eight to ten pounds; clover, lucerne or alfalfa, twenty pounds; corn, in hills, eight to ten quarts; corn for soiling, three bushels; cucumber, in _ hills, two pounds; flax, broadcast, one and one-half bushels; grass, Ken- tucky blue, three bushels; grass, orchard, three bushels; grass, English rye, two bushels; grass, red top, three bushels; grass, timothy, one-half bushel; grass, Hungarian, one bushel; grass, mixed lawn, four bushels; hemp, one and one-half bushels; mustard, broadcast, half bushel; melon, musk, in hills, two to three pounds; melon, water, in hills, four to five pounds; millet, common, broadcast, one bushel; oats, broadcast, two to three bushels; onion, in drills, five to six pounds; onion for sets, in drills, thirty pounds; onion, sets, in drills, six to twelve bushels; parsnips, in drills, four to six pounds; peas, in drills, one and one-half bushels; peas, broadcast, three bushels; potatoes (cut tubers), ten bushels; pumpkin, in hills, four to six pounds; radish, in drills, eight to ten pounds; rye, broadcast, one and one- half to two bushels; salsify, in drills, eight to ten pounds; spinach, in drills, twelve to fifteen pounds; sage, in drills, eight to ten pounds; squash, bush varieties, in hills, four to six pounds; squash, running varieties, hills, three to four pounds; tomatoes, to transplant, quarter pound; turnip, in drills, one pound; turnip, broadcast, half pound; vetches, broadcast, two to three bushels; and wheat broadcast, one and one-half to two bushels.” Soaking Seeds.—TI am often asked, writes a New England agriculturist, whether it does any good to soak seeds before sowing them? In general I believe it does more harm than good, and if done at all, a good deal of judgment should be used to prevent mischief. us peas, beans and corn are often soaked to hasten germination with the belief that they will come a day or two earlier, but in case the weather is cold and wet for some time after sowing the seed, it will be more likely to suffer injury from the weather 64 THE FARM. than ifsown dry. Especially is this true of the McLean pea and other deli- cate green peas, and of the various kinds of sweetcorn. When the weather is dry and hot, however, it may be an advantage to steep the seeds before using them, and especially so in the case of seeds that are slow to germinate, such as celery and parsnips and carrots. To steep these seeds for a few days until germination has started and then dry them just enough to make them pass readily through the seed drill, will hasten their comimg up, so that weeding will be less difficult in case the land is foul; but such seed should not be sown upon foul land ifit can be avoided. Care is required in steeping seed that fermentation does not occur, which will frequently kill the seed. It may be arrested by turning off the water and spreading out the seed thinly upon a piece of sheeting and partially drying it. To steep seeds in chemical solutions with the belief that this will answer in place of fertiliz- ing the land, I believe, is sheer humbug and imposition upon common sense. The only chemical stuffs that have proved useful, so far as I know, are the blue vitriol to destroy germs of smut, strychnine to destroy crows and black- birds and a smearing of tar on corn seed for protection from these birds. Raising Roots.—The average farmer is now devoting all his energies to the production of the greatest possible number of bushels of grain. Concen- tration of effort is generally commendable, but when applied to one particu- lar branch of agriculture to the exclusion of others just as important, or to the detriment of the whole enterprise, it is not commendable. In other words, it is very bad management, and the evil effects of such a course will, sooner or later, become manifest in the exhausted condition of the soil, where this system of indiscriminate grain raising has been pursued. The true policy of farming is to produce good crops and feed them out; so far as practicable, upon the farm. The larger the stock carried on the farm © the greater will be the amount of fertilizing material produced. In this case, good management would consist in growing those crops from which we could realize the greatest return per acre, thereby enabling us to carry more stock upon a given area. Considered in this way, the root crop is an important factor in stock raising, as it yields largely to the acre, and is a most nutritious and whole- some diet, when stock is deprived of other green food during the feeding months. Aside from their nutritious qualities, roots possess a mechanical value of no less importance, as they materially aid in the assimilation of dry food, which too often forms the exclusive diet of stall-fed stock. Of all roots, carrots are the most nutritious, and when the soil is deep, rich, and mellow, they will yield enormously, sometimes as high as ten or twelve tons to the acre. They keep well and can be fed all the year round if properly cared for. They are not so easily harvested as the beet and man- gold, as the roots penetrate deeply into the soil, necessitating the use of the spade or plow when harvesting. Probably, for this reason, they are not so extensively raised as they should be... The mangold seems to be the favorite at present, as, perhaps, all things considered, it should be. Under the most favorable circumstances it will yield even heavier than the carrot, and it also keeps well for spring feeding. Rutabagas and turnips come last in the order when considered as to their respective values. The greatest argument in their favor is, that they can be raised with the least labor,and can be raised as a second crop, sown late in the season. This is particularly the case with the turnip, which may be sown as late as August Ist, + » - PIELD CROPS. 55 To raise roots profitably, we must, of course, do away as far as possible, , With all hand labor. The garden or field should be long and narrow, with : the drills running lengthwise, so that horse-power may be used to advan- tage when cultivating them. For sowing, the garden seeder, run by hand, : is the best implement. When rightly managed this work need not interfere with other farm work. Many farmers have an idea that such crops must be ; in the ground the very first of the season, before the other field crops are 4 sown; but such is not the case. Those calculated for feeding out to stock } should not be started out before the first of June. By leaving them until : this time, the seeds will germinate more surely and rapidly, and the weeds > will not have three or four weeks the start of the plants, as is the case when m sown early inthe spring. . ji Let us have acres of roots this year instead of rods. I am confident that the farmer who sows and properly cares for an acre of roots this year, will want two acres or more next year. Roots.—A writer in the Nebraska Farmer says: “* We always find turnips putin the cellar become pithy and worthless. My method is to fa obyiate this, and I do it in this way: When I pull my turnips I cut off the J top way down into the turnip, cut deep enough to cut all the eye out; then a cut the root off smooth and nice, and you have them ina condition to place in a@ cool part of the cellar, or to bury out in open ground, and you need 4 have no fear of pithy turnips, Beets should be buried out of doors, with manure over the dirt, so the ground will not freeze. In this way you can -_—s get at them any time in the winter. A part of the parsnip crop should be in \ the fall; they may be put in the cellar; no matter if they do wilt, they are so much the sweeter.” Cutting Clover Hay.—Clover hay is greatly improved by curing in the cock. The method is as follows: The clover cut in the forenoon is left to wilt in the swath until evening. Before the dew begins to fall it is raked into winrows, and is thus left until noon the next day. Then it is spread, - and is exposed for an hour or two to the sun. Itis then raked and heaped ____ into cocks, about four feet wide and five feet high, and then left until the ___ whole crop is ready to carry off the field, or at least twenty-four hours. In the cock it ferments, heats and sweats, but takes no injury, because the heated vapor passes off freely, as may be noticed by walking in the field at night. During this curing process, some of the woody fiber is changed to starch and sugar, and the quality of the hay thereby improved. Before the hay is hauled the cocks are thrown over, and the insides are aired fora short time, to evaporate any moisture. Itis then drawn to the barn, and al- though it may heat again, it will suffer no injury. Generally it will not heat after the first fermentation, and will go into the barn green, sweet and with- out any loss of leaf by over-drying. Sometimes immature buds have bloomed in the mow when the clover has been thus cured, and the hay has preserved even the color of the fresh blossoms. Making Hay—A Good Suggestion.—Farmers who have cut grass for hay should let it alone during the continuance of wet weather. Thereis no . greater mistake than to break the swath, as grass never takes less harm and throws off more wet than just as it is left by the scythe or machine. Every blade of grass is provided by nature with a waterproof mantle in the shape of an impenetrabie glassy covering of silica. This envelope is perfectly able to keep out the rain; but tedding and turning breaks it and opens joints into 56 THE FARM. which the wet enters. It is then that the mischief begins, the external wet mingling with the internal sap and causing fermentation. How long grass will resist the bad effects of rain we hardly venture to state, but we are con- fident that a week or ten days’ bad weather will be best met by the passive system here indicated. To Banish Crows From a Biola Wasi of various kinds, such as wind-mills in miniature, horse rattles, etc., to be putin motion by the wind, are often employed to frighten crows; but with all these they soon become familiar, when they cease to be any use atall. The most effectual method of banishing them from a field, as far as experience goes, is to combine with one or the other of the scare-crows in vogue the frequent use of the musket. Nothing strikes such terror into these sagacious animals as the sight of a fowling-piece and the explosion of gunpowder, which they have known so often to be fatal to their race. Such is their dread of a fowling-piece that if one is placed on a dyke or other eminence, it will for a long time prevent them from alighting on the adjacent grounds. Many persons now, however, believe that crows, like most other birds, do more by destroying insects and worms, etc., than harm by eating grain. ' About Tobacco Growing.—The ground for tobacco shoula be plowed in the fall or early in spring, six to eight inches deep, and just before plant- ing plow it again, this time more shallow. Pulverize and level the surface soil, then mark out in checks or drills. If White Burley tobacco is to be grown make the rows three and a half feet one way by twenty inches the other. Always procure well matured, pure seed, and be sure that it is true toname. Some kinds are better adapted to certain soils than are others, and you may labor under a disadvantage if seeds are not true to name. When - the plants appear above the ground, after being transplanted, begin using the hoe and continue until they are too large to work in. Seed Corn.—In an address on the subject of corn, Professor Beal re- marked that the top-most ear was the best for seed; of two fields, one planted with seed taken at random and the other selected in the field, the latter yielded as much again as the former. Manure and cultivation may be thrown away on poor seed. The best time to cultivate corn is before plant- ing. A shallow cultivation was recommended. Twenty-three ears of corn can be produced from one kernel: by proper cultivation and the use of the best seed as high as twenty-five ears. Smut is a great damage to corn, and smutty corn is very injurious to cattle. Weeds.—There is no surer or better way to perpetuate weeds, than to pull or mow them and cart to the barn yard or pig pen. The seeds will ‘ripen perfectly, and when carted out to the field again with the manure, they will find plant food just where they would put it were they, instead of us, lords over creation. If one finds a weed that he is choice of, with its thousands of seeds just ripening, and fears that pulling and leaving it on the ground will cause the seeds to rot from dampness, it is well to deposit such weed on a rock or fence, where it will dry, and the seeds ripen in safety. Improving Pasture Lands.— this position they may be readily exam- ined at any time. It is said that grapes will keep well treated in this manner. How to Prune the Grape.—The ric. 2.—KEEPING GRARES IN custom kas usually been to prune in WINTER. February, but we believe it would be better if done earlier, The excised portions should be cut up in pieces from 3 one to two feet in length, as the buds might be best adapted to planting, tied , in bundles of, say, one or two dozen, and buried a few inches under the soil ORCHARD AND VINEYARD. 129 in a location whence the water would drain off, or under an open shed. There they would keep fresh and in full life until planting in the spring. The yines should be cut loose from the trellis and left to sprawl over the ground, in which position they will stand the winter much better. A Cheap Trellis.—Onur illustration upon this page gives a good idea of @ permanent and quite cheap grape- vine trellis. The posts rest on stones sunk a little into the ground. The posts may be of any desired size of timber. A capping piece connects them along each side, and cross pieces join the opposite posts. Wire is used for the lattice work. Such a trellis costs about fifty cents a running foot, and is not at all unsightly. Culture of Hardy Grapes.—J. T. Lovett, of Little Silver, the well-known New Jersey fruit grower, says in re- gard to the culture of hardy grapes: Plant in rows six feet apart, and the vines eight feet apart in the rows. Dig holes twelve to fifteen inches deep, and of a size amply large to accommodate the vines. They should then be filled to within six or eight inches of the top with fine, rich soil, throwing in while doing so a few bones or some wood ashes, if to be had. Cut back one-year vines to two eyes, placing the lower one below the surface; two-year vines to three or four eyes, and putting two or three eyes below the surface. Spread out the roots (which should have previously had one-third their - length cut off), place the stock of the _ vine at one side of the hole, and fill with fine soil, pressing it firmly. When _ planted, set a stake at the stock (to which the vine should be kept tied), which will be all the support required fortwoyears. Keep old wood trimmed off, growing fruit on new canes. Any _ manner of pruning that will admit the _ sun to the fruit will insure a crop; and laying the vines on the ground, even without covering, will increase both the quality of the fruit and the size of the bunches, besides insuring safety from injury by frost. For mildew dust with flower of sulphur while the vines are wet. Bleeding Grape Vines.—Ii is stated that an English grape grower stopped the profuse bleeding of a thrifty grape vine by forming a sort of hard cement over the cut ends by repeated dustings at short intervals with Portland cement, . : “SITTISUL TVaHO V SMALL FRUITS. Cranberry Culture.—The constantly increasing price of the cranberry, and the great numbers of marshes with alluvium soil free from clay or loam that one meets almost everywhere, prompts the question why cranberries are not more generally cultivated. Of all the self-supporting crops, none needs less care than the cranberry, if the conditions that govern its culture are first complied with, and none certainly shows greater financial results. The first essential is the marsh and its soil, with reference also to the ability to control the water supply. A soil having any proportion of clay should be avoided, and selection made of a combined decaying vegetable mass, with natural sand, and the less loam there is in this the better. Eastern growers cover their marshes with sand, but in the West, if the swamp, upon exami- nation, seems to have a fair amount of sand or silex, it is quite probable that success may be attained in putting out the plants without this sand mulch. As a rule, it is a greater guarantee of success to have a stream of water crossing the marsh, for then in dry weather the gates can be closed and the marsh saturated, and if insect pests make their appearance the vines can be submerged for a day, which will make the worms loosen their hold, but the chances may be taken on a common “dry” patch of swamp. It is supposed that any one who attempts the culture of cranberries will make the dams _ and embankments of the most solid and substantial character, with gates that will not only work, but be water-tight, else failure will come with the first freshet. Ditching should next be seen to, and rapid drainage secured. This is done by a broad central channel and lateral ditches, which should not be at right angles to it, but approaching it in diagonal lines. The amount of water will have to be taken into consideration—the more water, the more ditches—a fact that will determine also the width of the main out- let. If the swamp is of some extent, it is to be presumed that a ditch at least six or eight feet in width will be needed. These ditches should not be over two feet in depth, and unless there are very heavy discharges of water from the uplands, or natural water courses, the side ditches need not be nearer than one hundred feet from each other. One ditch should always run parallel with and about six feet, or even more, from the dam; the soil thrown out can be utilized in building the dam. The planting requires some discernment. If the muck is covered with alders, reeds, and the like, a great amount of labor will have to be performed in advance, but the experi- ence of a great many has been, where the muck was only covered with a growth of wild grass, that the ditching and consequent dry soil will so hinder its growth that the berry vines will thrive and soon force it into subjection, and, upon the whole, it will, in the first year of the growth of the cranberry, prove a source of profit in the way of protection from exposure and the like. By this method the labor of setting the vines will only be one of thrusting a narrow spade into the soil, pushing the handle over to one side, insert the plants, three or four in number, and press the soil firmly about the planis with the foot. Where weeds and wild sage have a strong hold upon the SMALL FRUITS. 131 swamp, the removal of the turf is the only way to succeed with the cran- berries. To pay $50 and $75 an acre to clear the ground, in addition to the expense of ditching, seems a large outlay, but when the plants have estab- lished themselves and you find that the acre has produced one hundred to one hundred and fifty bushei- of berries, worth $4 per bushel, the “light shines from an entirely different quarter.” Planting these hills three feet apart each way gives both ample room and ck wee for cultivation, and in a couple of years the plants will occupy the entire ground, and if no chance is given to seed the ground with weeds, the care of the vines will be quite a small item for several years. Preparing Soil for Strawberries.—Upon this subject E. P. Roe writes as follows: In the garden, light soils can be given a much more stable and productive character, covering them with clay to the depth of one or two __ inches every fall. The winter’s frost and rain mix the two diverse soils to their mutual benefit. Carting sand on clay is rarely remunerative; the reverse is decidedly so, and top-dressing of clay on light land is often more beneficial than equal amounts of manure. As practically employed, I regard quick stimulating manures, like guano, yery injurious to light soils. I believe them to be the curse of the South. They are used ‘‘ to make a crop,” as it is termed; and they do make it for sn few years, but to the utter impoverishment of the land. And yet, by the aid of these stimulating commercial fertilizers, tho poorest and thinnesi soil can be made to produce good strawberries if suf- ficient moisture can be maintained. Just as a physician can rally an exhausted man to a condition in which he can take and be strengthened by food, so land, too poor and light to sprout a pea; can be stimulated into pro- ducing a meagre green crop of some kind, which plowed under, will enable the land to produce a second and heavier burden. This, in turn, placed in : the soil, will begin to give a suggestion of fertility. Thus poor or exhausted _ soil can be made by several years of skillful management, to convalesce slowly into strength. Coarse, gravelly soils are usually even worse. If we must grow our _ strawberr:es on them give the same general treatment that I have sug- gested. ___ Onsome peat soils the strawberry thrives abundantly; on others it burns _ anddwindles. With a soil, I should experiment with bone dust, ashes. et- ee until I found just what was lacking. No written directions can take the place of common sense judgment, and % above all, experience. Soils vary like individual character. I have yet to of a system of rules that will teach us how to deal with every man we ‘meet. It is ever wise, however, to deal justly and liberally. He that expects much from his land must give it much. _ Ihave dwelt at length upon the preparation and enrichment of the land, since it is the corner stone of all subsequent success. Let me close by : emphasizing again the principle which was made prominent at first. Though We give our strawberry plants everything else they need, our crop of fruit _ Will still be good or bad in proportion as we are able to maintain abundant : ‘moisture during the blossoming and fruiting season. If provision can be : made for irrigation, it may increase the yield tenfold. aes . 182 THE FARM. berry plant should be known, and this will enable each one to decide for himself. The plants that are sent out by nurserymen are those that were formed last year by the runners from old plants taking root in the soil of the bed. If these are taken up in the usual way and planted in a new bed—it may be after the lapse of several days—they require a whole season to get established and become sufliciently strong to bear a crop. If these plants are set this spring, they will ‘ear a crop next spring; if such plants are set next autumn, they will require all of next season to grow in, and while they may produce here and there a few berries, they will give no real crop untii the following year. Growers of fruit for market set a share of their plants in the fall, because then they have leisure and the ground is in excellent con- dition. If the plants are made to strike root in pots, these in early autumn may be planted in beds without any disturbance of their roots, and will give a fair crop next spring. Such plants are more expensive than others, and if a crop of fruit is wanted next spring, itis better to set out the plants now. Making the rows two feet apart, and setting the plants one foot apart in the row, as a general rule is best. With regard to protecting strawberry plants, if some light material can be put over the plants that will not smother and rot them, and yet will be just enough to make shade from the winter sun and a screen from frosty winds, it will be doing a good turn to the strawberry plant. Manure is bad. There is salt in it, especially when fresh, which is destructive to foliage; but clean straw, or swamp, or marsh hay that is free from weeds, answers the purpose very well. But it must not be put on very thick. The idea is, just enough to make a thin screen, and yet enough to hold the moisture long. Shade without damp is the idea. Such light protection is good for the plant. Covering Strawberries.—The strawberry endures cold well, writes a- successful small fruit grower, but not the great sudden changes of tempera- ture, and cold, drying winds. If the situation is such that the plants are not exposed to the winds, and the stools are large and thick with foliage, this foliage will be a sufficient protection; doubtful, however, should the snow be very deep and close packed, and lie long, or ice form on the surface of the ground, locking it for a longtime. It is worse still if the frost extends deep into the ground. Under such circumstances the smothering influence may either kill the plant or seriously injure it. The plants without covering are safe where the winter is mild and the soil has perfect drainage. But the safe thing is to cover the plants. For perfect protection I find nothing so good as hemlock brush, or straw keptin place by a hemlock bough, with the con- cave side under, thus preventing the fatal pressure of the snow. I put on the covering at the beginning of winter, and keep it on until spring frosts are over. The plant will then come out fresh, strong and unharmed, and imme- diately push its growth. This answers for a small plot of ground. For field culture, light stable manure with three or four parts of sawdust, or other fine vegetable absorb- ent, to one of manure, succeeds well as a covering, but should be used only — where the soil requires the fertility, as too high manuring produces foliage rather than fruit. Vegetable material worked into the soil is one of the best elements in the strawberry culture, as also in the culture of other berries. It loosens clay — and improves the character of sandy soil, seeming also to form the right pabulum for the fruit. I also get the best crops and the finest berries in this — | way. Two weeks ago I gave the plants awprinkling of liquid manure = om RI * SMALL FRUITS. 138 (diluted urine), and they are brightening up and invigorated so as to with-_ stand the winter better, and put out strong and early in the spring. This atiention is only a trifie, but it helps a good deal. The strawberry, like the grape, is very susceptible to treatment, and can be made to do much more than we usually see. Cultivation of Strawberries.—An Illinois journal says that the pre- paration of the ground for strawberries, and, indeed, for all berry fruits raised in the garden, is exceedingly simple. Any land rich enough to bring forty to fifty bushels of corn per acre, under good cultivation, willdo. The should be plowed deeply and thoroughly well pulverized. Mark the land if for field culture, the distance as for corn. If for garden culture, the field may be marked both ways, and one good plant placed at each intersec- tion, spreading the roots naturally, placing the plants so the crowns will not be above the surface, giving a little water to the roots if the soil be not fairly moist, and after the water has settled away, drawing the dry earth over all. For garden culture, one plant to three feet of space will be sufficient, unless the plants are to be raised in stools, and the runners kept cut out, when a plant to each two feet will be about right, if you want extra large berries. The cultivation is simple. The spaces between the rows, about two feet wide, may be kept clean with the cultivator. In the rows the weeds may be kept, early in the season, clean with the cultivator; later, when the runners have encroached on the rows, the weeds must be pulled out if necessary, _ but on fairly clean soil, the cultivation will not be difficult. Beds of the pre- vious year, and which should be in full fruit this season, may be kept clean between the rows with the cultivator. The weeds will not trouble much until the crop is gathered. ; About Raspberries.—Not one-half the people grow raspberries that should. To say nothing of the excellence of this fruit freshly taken from the vines, with cream or without, it is really the best there is for canning, and _ either raw or canned it finds a ready market. It is easily cultivated, pro- duces large crops, and has few insect enemies. In starting a bed the best time is in the fall, but if neglected then, plant early in the spring, pressing the earth firmly about the roots and cutting the canes off six inches high. Count all suckers as weeds except three to five toe the hill. The hills may be four feet apart each way, so they can be worked _ with the plow and cultivator. No stakes are needed, for the canes are kept stocky by being pinched off hen about a yard high. * As to varieties, ef course there is none better for this locality than the _ Brandywine. Itis true and tried. It carries well to market, and its bright red color makes it the most salable berry in the catalogue. For home use alone it is no better than the Herstine, but this is not solid, and the plants _ need covering in winter north of this latitude. The Herstine is a splendid berry—good enough for anybody. The Philadelphia is a valuable old stand- ard, but is soft and too dark in color. The Reliance is nearly of the same _. eolor, but we believe every way better than the Philadelphia. The Cuthbert is immensely praised just now, and s0 many unite in com- , mending it, that it certainly must have merit. It is perfectly hardy, and _ thrives North and South. Itis said to be very productive, the berries are immense, and the bearing time holds on a long time. The Queen of the Market is quite similar to the Cuthbert, in fact so nearly alike are the two __ berries, that many consider them identical, =? - Me ° | THE FARM. The above are all red varieties. Of the black caps the Mammoth Ginzter is the old popular variety, but the new Gregg is said to be greatly superior to it. The Blackberry and Whortleberry.—Those who find it difficult to- get good ripe blackberries and whortleberries may be glad to know that they can be grown in their own gardens as well as the strawberry, and that with the right treatment they will surpass in flavor and size any which may have grown in their grandfather’s day. The low-bush or running blackberry grows best on a warm soil of either sandy loam or gravel, and when properly grown and well ripened is much better than any of the high bush varieties. The plants should be set in May, in rows three feet apart and two feet in the rows. Care should be taken to select good strong young roots, and those which bear large sweet berries, avoiding those which bear the sour berries that ripen later in the season; it is best to mark the plants when the fruit is ripening, or secure the assistance of one who knows where the right variety grows. For garden culture the ground should be well hoed the first part of the season, and mulched with leaves or hay about the first of August. If properly cared for the first year, but little needs to be done the next spring; the crop will be large if the vines are well supplied with water during the ripening season; during this time they require quite as much water as the strawberry. The berries should not be picked until fully ripe, and to be in the best condition for sauce should be picked but a short time before eaten; when thus picked, they surpass in richness and flavor the strawberry; as it cannot be transported when fully ripe, any better, ifso well as the strawberry, its good qualities are known only to those who cultivate it in their own gar- den, and understand the right time to pick it. But few dishes can be placed upon the table so acceptable as a dish of good, well-ripened blackberries of _ the variety which grow on the low running vines. To keep the garden clean, new vines should be set every year, and the old ones removed as soon as the berries are picked. The whortleberry, both the high and the low-bush, re- quires a different treatment from the blackberry; it will grow on almost any soil. Bushes should be selected that are known to produce large-sized and good flavored berries; they should be set near enough together to shade the ground; a large portion of the top should be cutoff; the ground be mulched with a heavy coat of leaves, and should not be disturbed by cultivation, but should be kept well mulched until the bushes are thick enough and large enough to shade the ground, and thus they protect themselves; when once established they require but little care. When the bushes seem to have too much old wood to bear well, they should be cut down to the ground in the autumn; the next year they will make a vigorous growth, and the year after bear some very large berries, but not a full crop until the following year. Gooseberries and Currants.—There is no reason why both these very useful fruits should not be found abundantly in every garden. They are no trouble to raise. They grow readily from cuttings. Take the wood of last year, from six to ten inches in length; prepare the bed or place where they are to stand permanently; force them into the ground not less than four inches, press the dirt firmly around them, mulch them, and let them alone. Ifa brush is desired let the buds on the cuttings remain; butif a tree or single stem be preferred, remove all the buds that would go beneath the surface. Let them stand about three feet in the row; andif there is more than one row, let the rows be four feet apart, ee ©. PPS SMALL FRUITS. ne In the spring the aead wood of both the gooseberries and currants should be cut ont, and the new growth should be thinned where there is too much, as it will interfere with the product. The best red currant is the Dutch, and _ the best gooseberries are Downing’s Prolific and Houghton’s Seedling. Adyantages of Mulching.—The Germantown Telegraph says: ‘‘ Al- _ though we have suggested many times in the past the great advantage of mulching raspberry and blackberry beds, it cannot be suggested too often. But this mulching should not be done or rather renewed in the season until the heat of the sun or drought requires it; neither should it be done until _ after the suckers or new plants show themselves and are of sufficient height "not to be injured by the application of the mulch, which, if too thick and __ applied too soon, will in a great measure prevent the sprouting, and where it does not will cause-+the sprouts to be weak and spindling. Currant bushes also delight in a moist, cool soil, and mulching provides this if applied in ‘sufficient quantity. Anything in the way of weeds, small branches of trees, grass from lawn cuttings, etc., will answer. The mulching of tomato plants, egg plants, etc., will prove very beneficial. We know that some persons have not our faith in mulching, and prefer beds of plants, young trees, etc., to have the soil stirred up about them frequently. This, we are aware, is excellent, but it does not hinder the mulching also. Let the old mulch be removed, the soil well loosened, and then apply fresh mulch.” Fall Setting of Small Fruits.—Itis urged that those contemplating setting small frnits should give one trial at least to fall setting. ALI that is necessary is to either back up over the roots with earth, or throw a forkful of litter over each plant, before the ground freezes up, and in the spring haul this away. First, because they get settled in their place, and getting the benefit of early spring rains, start early, and make a full growth next season, while if set next spring, it cannot be done properly until the ground is set- tled and the heavy spring rains have ceased. Seccnd, all fruit growers know how pressed they are for time in the spring. Third, raspberries and black- berries haye very tender germs that start very early in the spring, and these are likely to be broken off if set then, while if set in the fall, they have not ‘started enough to damage them in transplanting. And fourth, but not least, @ much larger proportion of them live when set in the fall—a fact abundant in itself to show the superior merits of fall planting, especially of blackber- ___ fies, raspberries, currants, grapes, and such sorts. __+Red Raspberry.—There is no fruit that is in greater demand at such ____ paying prices, and with which the market is so poorly supplied, as the red __ raspberry, and one reason why the market is so poorly supplied is because _ there has been sent over the country so\many tender sorts that have so _ easily winter killed, but now with such hardy and productive sorts as the - Brandywine, Philadelphia, Turner, Highland Hardy, Thwack and Cuthbert, _ and that succeed so well wherever tried, there is no excuse for not having _ this delicious fruit in abundance. Another reason why they pay so poorly is _ that they have been allowed to grow helter skeltet all over the ground. If _ you would have fruit in abundance, and of larger size, the suckers must be _ kept down same as weeds, and the same cultivation that will keep the ground in proper plight and keep weeds down will keep suckers down. ‘Easy Method of Cultivating Small Fruits.—A writer in the New _ York Tribune says: “It is a source of constant regret with farmers that 7 LF - \ & , ay Lily 1 hy Rta cei a ro Ss ee = _ r %, 7 ; * Bs ri FARM, small fruits require so much care and attention, and that, too, in the seasoil when they are hardest at work at something else. Field work must be done at all events, and the ‘ berry patch’ struggles on single handed with the weeds and grass, till it submits to the inevitable sward. S6me years ago. coming into possession of a patch of black cap raspberries that had received thé usual shiftless culture, I treated them in the following way: After care- filly plowing and hoeing them, I covered the ground with a heavy layer of véry btrawy manure, and the work was done, not only for that year but for the two years following, only renewing the mulch each spring. Only a few struggling Canada thistles will ever grow through such mulch; the soil is always rich and moist, and the berries can ask no better treatment. Since that time I have tried the same plan without removing the sod, and find the result is quite as satisfactory. Farmers, try it, and you will not need to complain that berries cost more than they are worth. Winter Protection of Strawberry Vines.—A good strawberry pro- tector is a cheap baked-clay saucer, twelve to thirteen inches in diameter, with a hole in the center. The advantages claimed by its use are: a much larger crop; much finer berries; cleaner, and free from sand and dirt; mulching the ground; the retention of the rains to the roots of the vines; killing the weeds; early ripening; easier picking. They are turned over as a winter protection to the vines. Persons who have used it pronounce it the most important invention ever made in connection with strawberry raising. Setting a Strawberry Bed.—The old plan of spading under a portion of the old strawberry bed, so as to leave the plants in rows, will not pay. Better reset clean land with vigorous plants, arranging to grow a crop of potatoes every third year to clean the land and mellow it. The picking of - berries on heavy clay lands causes it to become so packed as to require cul- tivating at least one season in every four with some hoed crop. Strawberry plants may be set in May or in August; in fact, at almost any time during the spring, summer or fall season. Easy Method of Disposing of the Currant Worm.—". =i ns C7) ny ? Feed for the Horse.—One of the most sensible articles on the treatment _ ofa horse is that which is given from a physiological standpoint by Colvin. It is the opinion of this authority that the horse’s stomach has a compacity _ proporiion is reversed, the horse having a capacity of 190 quarts against 100 _ Of the ox. The ox, and most other animals, have a gall bladder for the re- _ tention of a part of the bile secreted during digestion; the horse has none, ___ and the bile flows directly into the intestines as fast as secreted. This con- _ 8struction of the digestive apparatus indicates that the horse was formed to _ eat slowly and digest continually bulky and innutritious food. When fed on ___ > bay it passes very rapidly through the stomach into the intestines. The - + of only about 16 quarts, while that of the ox has 250. In the intestines this- % * _ PWR FARM. horse can eat but about five pounds of hay in an hour, which is charged, during mastication, with four times its weight of saliva. Now, the stomach, to digest well, will contain but about ten quarts, and when the animal eats one-third of his daily ration, or seven pounds, in one and one-half hours, he has swallowed at least two stomachiuls of hay and saliva, one of these hay- ing passed to the intestines. Observation has shown that the food is passed to the intestines by the stomach in the order in which it is received. If we feed a horse six quarts of oats it will just fill his stomach, and if, as soon as he finishes this, we feed him the above ration of seven pounds of hay, he will eat sufficient in three-quarters of an hour to have forced the oats entirely out of his stomach into the intestines. As it is the office of the stomach to digest the nitrogenous parts of the feed, and as a stomachful of oats contains four or five times as much of these as the same amount of hay, it is certain that either the stomach must secrete the gastric juice five times as fast, which is hardly possible, or it must retain this food five times as long. By feeding the oats first, it can only be retained long enough for the proper digestion of hay, consequently it seems logical, when feeding a concentrated food like oats, with a bulky one like hay, to feed the latter first, giving the grain the whole time between the repasts to be digested. Feeding Horses.-=Another authority writes as follows: The horse has the smallest stomach, in proportion to his size, of any animal. This space is completely filled by four quarts of oats and the saliva that goes into the stomach with it. Horses are generally overfed and not fed often enough. For a horse with moderate work six or eight quarts of bruised oats and ten pounds of fine hay are sufficient. This should be fed in three meals, and is better if fed in four. A horse’s digestion is very rapid, and therefore he gets hungry sooner than a man. When he is hungry he is ineffective, and wears - out very rapidly. Water fills the stomach, lowers the temperature, and di- lutes the gastric juice; therefore a horse should not drink immediately be- fore eating. Neither should he be watered immediately after eating, because he will drink too much and force some of the contents of the stomach into the large intestine, which will cause scouring. Scouring is also caused by too rapid eating, which can be prevented by putting half a dozen pebbles half the size of the fist into the manger with the oats. Give only a moderate drink of water to a horse. A large drink of water before being driven will haye a very quieting effect on a nervous horse. A race horse always runs on an empty stomach. Digestion progresses moderately during exercise, if the exercise is not so violent as to exhaust the power of the horse. I con- sider bruised oats worth twenty per cent. more than whole. They are more perfectly digested. I prefer oats to any other grain for horses. Cracked corn is good under some circumstances, but I would not use meal or shorts. The disease called big head is caused by feeding corn. Whena horse comes in hot I would give a moderate feed immediately. If the horse is too tired to eat I would take the feed away. A heated horse is a reason against water- ing and for feeding, for the system is just then in a condition to begin diges- tion. he is willing to endure. TO BREAK A HORSE FROM PULLING = AT A HALTER.—FIG. 2. Warts on Horses.—A correspon- dent of an English agricultural journal writes: “‘ Inquiries are made fora cure for warts on horses, mules, and cattle. Many remedies are prescribed 142 THE FARM, —many barbarous and cruel to the animal. I will give you a remedy often tried, and never known to fail. Anoint the wart three times with clean, fresh hog’s lard, about two days between times. I have had warts on my horses—bleeding warts, of large size, rattling warts and geed warts, to the number of more than one hundred on one horse’s head. I have never been able to find the warts for the third application >of the lard. AI disappear after the second application. I have sent this prescription to several agri- cultural papers, hoping it would be of some use to farmers. But they all seem slow to believe, perhaps, because the remedy is at hand and costs no- thing. I own I was slow to believe myself; but, having a fine young mare with large bleeding warts, that covered parts of the bridle and girths with blood whenever used, I thought there would be no harm in trying lard on them. When the mare was got up for the third application, there were no warts, and the scars are there now, after more than fifteen years, with very little change. I may say that for cuts, bruises, galls, etc., the application of fresh lard—either for man or beast—is worth more than any patent liniment in use. It will remove pain instantly, and does not irritate raw flesh, as all liniments do. _ Stumbling Horses.—The Pittsburg Stockman says: ‘‘ Some good horses are addicted to stumbling while walking or moving in a slow trot. A well- versed veterinarian states that there are two causes that would tend to pro- duce this faulty action; one a general weakness in the muscular system, such as would be noticed in a tired horse; the other a weakness of the ex- terior muscles of the leg, brought about by carrying too much weight on the we. To effect a cure, he adds, lighten the weight of each front shoe about tour ounces; have the toe of the shoe made of steel instead of iron, it will wear longer, have it rounded off about the same as it would be when one- third worn out, in order to prevent tripping, allow one week’s rest; have the legs showered for a few minutes at atime with cold water through a hose, in order to create a spray; then rub dry briskly, from the chest down to the foot. Give walking exercise daily this week, for about an hour, twice a day. When you commence driving again omit the slow jog—either walk or send him along at a sharp trot for a mile or two, then walk away, but do not speed for at least several weeks. By this means the habit of stumbling from either of the above causes will be pretty well overcome. Cure for Baiky Horse.—Hermann Koon, my German neighbor, writes a correspondent of the Prairie Farmer, is as patient a man as belongs to that patient race. Coming along the road a month or so ago, I saw Her- mann lying in a fence corner, under the shade of an elm, quietly smoking his pipe. A quarter of a mile or so beyond I saw Hermann’s horse and buggy by the roadside, the horse evidently tied to a post. This was @ queer condition of affairs, for my neighbor is one of the most industrious men J know. My curiosity was aroused, and I stopped for an explanation. In broken English he told me his horse, a recent purchase, had proved balky, had stopped near where he now stood and no amount of coaxing could in- duce him to go on. Hermann did not curse the animal, he did not lash it with his whip, beat it with a club, build a fire under its belly, nor resort to any other of the brutal means some men use in such cases. He quietly got out of the buggy, tied the horse to the post, and walked off. Hermann had been taking it easy under the tree for three long hours. He thought the horse would be glad to go now if requested to do so, Tt had onge before stopped ‘. eo a Oe Ve a eee ee _ strap or rope sufficiently long LIVE STOCK. 143 with him, and after a patient waiting alone, for an hour, it went on all right. He expected about four hours, this time, would effect a permanent cure of the bad habit. I went on about my business, leaving the stolid German to his pipe and his thoughts. To-day I met him again. He said the horse was eager to start when he went back to the buggy, and though he has used it every day since, no disposition to balk has been manifested. He believes there will be no repetition of the offense. Most men think they cannot afford to waste time in this way, perhaps, but if the horse is cured he is a valuable one, whereas, if it had become a chronic balker, through cruel management, it would be worthless. Hermann thought he could not make money faster than by saving the reputation of his horse. It is a new system, but Hermann Says it will work well every time, if the horse is not naturally vicious. It looks reasonable to me, and if my nag ever tries the stop game with me, and I can command patience sufficient, I will try his plan. Kicking Horses.—We present herewith a method that will be found available in all cases of kicking by horses. The beast should have a good pair of bits in his mouth, to ~~ which should be attached a bs . ¥ to reach back between and behind the fore legs about eight inches, and should pass through the girt or surcingle. A loop should be made in this, the back end of the rope or strap, about two inches or more in length. Now take a rope ¢ seven or eight feet long. e length of the rope will depend upon the. size of the horse; the rope should be long enough to allow of a - free use of the horse’s hind “e legs in traveling.) Pass one 2°W 70 PREVENT HORSES FROM KICKING. end of the rope round the leg, upon the inside, so the fastening shall come upon the outside, to prevent interfering, and bring it round upon the outside __ of the leg, and pass the end over and around the middle of the rope and wind _ it round the rope upon the outside of the leg, as illustrated. Draw the noose up staal od ppg e., between the fetlock and hoof—and pass the unfastened end of the rope through the loop in the rope or strap which passes through the surcingle, and fasten the end round the other leg, as was done _ the first time in fastening. This mode of fastening is simple, is easily done and undone, and will not work off, provided the noose is drawn up tightly around the pastern. Ifyou have a horse thatis addicted to the unpleasant hab- it of kicking, try this experiment, and you will find that it works admirably. _ Training Vicious Horses.—A new and very simple method of training vicious horses was exhibited in West Philadelphia, and the manner in which some of the wildest horses were subdued was astonishing. The first trial was that of a kicking or “‘ bucking” mare, which her owner said had allowed no rider on her back for a period of at least five years. She became tame in about as many minutes, and allowed herself to be ridden about without 9 ee 144 THE FARM. sign of her former wildness. The means by which the result was accom- plished was a piece of light rope which was passed around the front jaw of the mare just above the upper teeth, crossed in her mouth, and thence secured back of her neck. It was claimed that no horse will kick or jump when thus secured, and that a horse, after receiving the treatment a few minutes, will abandon his vicious ways forever. A very simple method was also shown by which a kicking horse could be shod. It consisted in connect- ing the animal’s head and tail by means of a rope fastened to the tail and then to the bit, and then drawn tightly enough to incline the animal’s head to oneside. This, it is claimed, makes it absolutely impossible for the horse to kick on the side of the rope. At the same exhibition a horse which for many years had to be bound on the ground to be shod suffered the black- smith to operate on him without attempting to kick while secured in the manner described. Galls and Sores on Horses.—If the owner of the horses, the farmer ASS aioe” ae ONE CAUSE OF HIDE-BOUND. , himself, could always be among his work animals, they would receive more attention and better treatment; but as he has so much to think about and look after, he cannot give this department his careful supervision, and many errors creep into the management which could not otherwise be found there. There are some horses which chafe more readily than others, while some do not have the collars and harness fit them, which will invariably cause galls or sores; and even when the harness does fit properly, the warm weather, or giving the horse a hard, warm day’s work, may cause shoulder or saddle galls to appear, which will soon become larger and bad sores, if not promptly attended to. Bathing the shoulders, with spring or well water hardens them, and decreases the tendency toward galling. When galls ap- ‘ar, wash the affected parts with good white castile soap (only use the best eastile and none other), and warm water to cleanse them, After the pasts >. —_ 7 i ond i 2a LIVE STOCK. 145 have been dried with a soft cloth or rag or sponge, anoint the paris with a mixture of pure glycerine in which a little carbolic acid has been mixed. Do this atnight after work. In the morn cleanse well again, as above, and put on some pulverized alum if you work the horse regularly. Continue this course until the sores are perfectly healed up. Working Mares in Foal.—It is quite common to see or hear inquiries as to how near the time of foaling, a mare may be worked without injury to her or the colt, on the supposition that it is necessary for her to go idle fora month or two before. _ This is not the case; and in the hands of a careful man she may be kept atsuch work as plowing, harrowing, or cultivating without the least danger, until she is ready to foal. Of course, fast driving or working to a heavy Wagon tongue, on rough or muddy roads, or where heavy backing is to be done, should not be allowed. The writer has always worked mares moder- ately on the farm, when necessary, until it was evident they were hkely to foal within a few hours, and has known of their foaling in harness, en route from the plow to the barn, but never with any bad results. While we think it more humane to let a mare have a few days’ liberty before this trying event, there seems to be little necessity for losing the work of a strong mare _ for any great length of time before foaling, and we would prefer to allow the extra holidays afterward. Ordinarily, she will do first-rate work with a ten days’ vacation, provided that she is not put immediately to work that is too severe, and fed partly with something else than corn. Kicking in the Stall.—The habit of kicking in the stable arises from idleness. Regular day work is the best remedy, but when that is not sufli- cient, a branch or two of some prickly shrub, nailed to the posts, will often stop the habit, care being taken to arrange it so as not to prevent the animal from lywig down and obtaining needed rest. Mares are supposed to be much more subject to this vice than geldings or stallions; but so far as our _ personal experience goes, there is little difference. A broad leather strap, _ towhich is tied a small wooden Jog, are commonly applied to one or both _ legs, but they are not always sufficient. A heavier weight than two pounds _ should not be used, for if a horse is frightened by it, he may kick worse and _ do himself injury. When, however, he is well used to a wooder log, and __ has got over his first alarm, a heavier one may be put on if required. The _ Strap, which should be broad, is buckled around the leg above the fetlock, and the weight suspended from it, which should not reach farther down than an inch and a half above the coronet, as the coronet would inflame to a mis- _ chievous extent if bruised. Sometimes a weight is required for each leg, if the animal kicks at both stall posts. Occasionally, when all other remedics ‘ail, the practice will cease when the animal be turned loose in a roomy box _ _ Reining Horses.—The habit of reining in horses very tightly finds less _ favor with many persons than it did. It is not easy to see in what way the habit originated. Ifa man has a load of anything to pull, he wishes to get his head as far forward as possible to pull with ease. But the horse is de- “nied this. His head is reined back tightly, thereby making it much harder _ for him to pull the load. To our view, a horse looks better, and we know _ he feels better, when pursuing a natural, leisurely, swinging gait. It is as __ hecessary for his head to oscillate in response to the motions of his body, as itis for a man’s bands to do the same thing. A horse allowed his — ‘ par ol * 146 THE FARM, . head will work easier and last longer than one on which a check is used. Blinds are another popular absurdity in the use of horses. They collect dust, pound the eye, and are in every way a nuisance. that the product of his cows from the first day of December, if well wey would pay for all the corn and meal, middlings, etc., necessary to _ winter his cows in fine condition. He tried this, keeping account of pur- _ chases of feed and sales of butter, and found that the butter came out ten _ dollars ahead in the spring. a Cornstalks for Cattle.—A Maine farmer says: Farmers justly seta high | yalue on well cured corn stalks, but some find a difficulty in getting their | stock to eat them as cleanly as they wish. I have overcome this difficulty | this winter by sprinkling them with hot brine. I withheld dry salt from the stock a while, also husks, and made a brine by putting salt into a watering ‘pot and pouring on hot water; gave the husks a bountiful sprinkling and - fed them the last thing at night, instead of feeding them in the morning, as formerly. I think if I had tried this plan years ago I should have saved a great amount of fodder that was thrown out and trodden under fvot. Foul Foot in a Cow.—Cows and horses are subject to a disease of the feet similar to scratches in horses. Diseased granulations, similar in ap- | pearance to the heart of a cauliflower, break out and excrete a thin acrid | matter. The treatment should be, to dress the diseased part with caustics, | such as powdered sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) or sulphate of zinc | (white vitriol), rubbed up smoothly, with clean, sweet lard, and give the | animal repeated doses of one ounce hyposulphite of soda, as an alterative. The sods ehould be given every other day for a week or ten days. 1a a _ Kicking Cows.—A writer says he once had a very valuable heifer } __ which was an exceedingly vicious kicker. To cure her of the habit, he put a _ €ommon garden hoe end in front of her off hind leg, and behind and above ’ See eambrel joint of the nigh hind leg. Then sitting down on the right to ! Spam, he pat the handle cf the hoe well up under his arm and began milk- 1a The heifer could not stir either hind leg, and after one week she could 1 be milked safely without fettering, and proved to be a valuable and gentle > ‘Warm Water for Cows.—Warm water is an excellent thing for cows Seeeene sulk; it is a5 good as two or three quarts of meal a day; but if you _ t™mix meal and shorts with it cows must be allowanced, as they will drink too 2 ‘much—enough to diminish the flow of milk. The quantity will vary with | the character of feed and the cow. A little good judgment is a nice thing | here, as everywhere else. ig _ Reots for Stock.—The value of roots for stock is not appreciated to the i | a Se ae ipeatent that it should be. In the rotation of crops in England turnips rank 172 THE FARM. high, and it isnot unéommon for a farmer to devote from twenty to fifty aches to this crop. Cattle are kept there in tine condition in winter on raw worn ay and the latter also make excellent food for sheep. On rich land the produces very largely, and a comparatively small space is sufficient for or- — dinary wants. Jumping Cattle.—To stop a cow or steer from jumping over fences nail - a horseshoe on one forward foot. This prevents the hoof from spreading, and consequently renders the animal unable to spring. This is calculated to be very effectual. 4 Mixing Hay for Stock.—A mixture of one-third clover hay with timothy and redtop is recommended for any kind of stock. This mixture, itis said, — will produce more milk, more growth, and more fat in stock than clear timo- — thy and redtop. Proportions of Food.—A milch cow, on the average, requires daily three per cent. of her weight in hay to keep her in health, an ox two per cent., or two and a half per cent. if working moderately. An ox fatting, five per cent. at first, and four and a half per cent. when half fat; sheep three and a half _ per cent. to keep in store order. If other food is substituted for hay, or a part of it, its comparative value as a nutriment must be ascertained. Thus, ~ eight pounds of potatoes are equal to four pounds of good hay, while eight pounds of turnips are only sae to one and three-fifths pounds of hay. eI Carrots for Stock.—It is asserted, i those who have tested the matter, — that for stock-feeding an acre of carrots is worth about two hundred per cent. more than the same ground will doin grass. This will pay for increased expense of cultivation, and leave a fair margin of extra profit. Cattle take readily to carrots as a portion of their daily food, and the large yield pe acre should make them a greater favorite with farmers than they generally are. The thinning and weeding appear to be a great drawback to their more general cultivation. But with this expense the crop pays well. - Celery Tops for Cows.—A writer in an Australian paper states that in many instances the leaves of celery are highly esteemed as food for mileh cows, and are often prererred tu red ciover. The cows are said to eat them greedily, and to yield on this food a far richer milk than on any other. Some- times leaves are cut up small, scalded with hot water, and given as a mash mixed with bran, and sometimes they are fed whole in their natural state — along with the other ordinary food The Best Feed for Cattle.—We have seen pumpkins fed quite fre 31} with excellent result in quantity and quality of milk; but it is not fit or eco- nomical to feed too largely of any one food. Potatoes fed in moderation are excellent for milk; but given in too great a quantity they will reduce the yield. Turnips or beets must not be giveu too liberally; corn fodder, given as a sole ration, is unprofitable; but fed with half pasture will keep up th yield of milk and add largely to the profit of the season. : Phosphates for Cattle.—A natural instinct leads cattle to eat bone when their pastures are deficient in lime or phosphates of lime. If these bones are brought home and reduced to a fine powder, mixed with salt, anc placed in a box or boxes fixed in the barn-yard, the cows will lick them am LIVE STOCK. 178 fe yery great benefit from them. This will save their teeth, and prevent Wien from choking themselves, as they might readily do with a piece of bone. ho @ who have no old bones should purchase a few, and treat them in the - ‘Straw and Bran.—Professor Henry, of the Wisconsin Experimental a, holds that it is wise economy on the part of the farmer who has a straw stack, and small herd of cattle, and some hay, and who will not ge his herd, to sell the hay at $7 or $8 per ton, and spend the money in bran at $11 and $12, and feed it with the straw, together with some oil- Good bright straw is made equal to hay by the addition of the protein im the bran and wieal, and the whole is thus made into a far better quality of “manure than usually comes from the usual way of feeding the hay, and half _ washing the straw. Feeding Bran with Meal.—For winter feeding, where cattle are kept in stalls and heavily fed, there is no better divisor for corn meal than wheat bran. It is also cheap, and furnishes what the corn meal lacks. When cat- tle are fed on corn meal as the principal food for fattening, it is apt to clog if fed in too large quantities; hence, our best feeders are in the habit of using bran as the cheapest and best means for rendering the meal fed more di- gestible. Rings on Cows’ Horns.—The first ring appears when the cies is two years of age, and sometimes before. The ring gradually increases during the third year, and is fully formed at three years; the second ring appears during the fourth year, and is complete at the end of the fifth year; after that one additional ring is formed each year. A cow with three rings is six years old; with four, seven years old. After nine or ten years the rings are no indication of the age. _ Care of Oxen.—Oxen that work on frozen roads, although there is no ice, ‘should be shod. The rough, hard surface wears down the hoofs very fast, causes inflammation of the interior; the trouble may not become appar- - ent until later, when the mischief is difficult to repair. If the feet are tender and hot, and a slight lameness is perceived, examine the hoofs between the elaws, cleanse the feet, and apply the needful remedies without delay, and 80 Save trouble in the future. | To Exterminate Rats and Mice.—An English agricultural paper says: ‘ “Several correspondents write to announce the complete extirpation of rats ‘and mice from their cow-stalls and piggeries since the adoption of this sim- ple plan: A mixture of two parts of well-bruised common squills and three \ parts of finely chopped bacon is made into a stiff mass, with as much meal as _ May be required, and then baked into small cakes, which are put down for yee to wat.” _ Garget in Cows. —It issaid that eight drops of tincture of aconite dropped on a piece of bread and mixed with the food at night, and next morning four more given in the same manner, will generally complete the cure of _ Barget in cows. _ Scours in Caives.—For scours in calves, a raw egg broken into their _ milk is the most effectual remedy. A piece of rennet soaked in milk is also good, but we prefer the raw egg. 174 THE FARM, A Winter Piggery.—The object sought in the erection of this piggery — is to secure a neat, clean, cheap and comfortable shelter for young pigs. The structure is thirty feet long, six feet wide, five and a half feet high in front, — and four feet high at the rear. The roof slopes only one way, and projects — fifteen inches, to throw water away from the pens. First make the spot on which it is to be built a foot higher than the natu- ral surface, with stiff, good clay soil. Gravel — must be put on this several inches deep. Set round white oak posts a few inches in the ground at every corner of each pen or division. Nail on, with double-ten nails, scantling, two by four inches. Board up with vertical boarding, one by — twelve inches. Cover the roof of building with — the same material, and make slatted divisions for the pensinside. Our illustration shows the trough into which slops and water are poured from the © outside. These have a one-inch hole at one end, with peg to let off surplus water in cleaning. A piggery of this size will hold from ten to thirty, — according to size and age. It should be built facing the south, so as to allow as much sunshine as possible to enter the doors. Whitewash the inner apartments for health; also the outside, which gives the structure a pleasant appearance. The ornamental verge board is sawed out of one- inch plank a foot wide, and a one-inch auger hole put through the center of the figure, as shown in the cut. The rafters project a foot over the front, which proves a solid basis upon which to nail the — verge board. A little venetian red in some lime is good to color the verge board, the corners and doors. The doors are made of open slat-work, and are furnished with small chains for fastening, and strap hinges. This piggery can be built for about $35. Will it Pay to Steam Fodder?t—Taking the word fodder inits broadest sense, says the Ameri- can Agriculturist, a3 any kind of food for gra- nivorous animals, we may say that it will always pay to steam or cook feed for swine, and often for cows, in stables containing twenty-five head or more, while for sheep and horses it will be of doubtful expediency, and usually not advisable under any circumstances. The cooking of feed for fattening swine is so important as a matfér of . economy, that it will pay, even though done with — little regard to the saving of labor and fuel. On the other hand, to cook the” feed for neat cattle with profit, not only should there be animals enough ta make it pay, but the rations should be so carefully planned, that by min- gling of palatable, with less relished and coarse fodder, a saving may be ef- fected in that way. Besides the object for which the cattle are kept, is important factor to be considered in the feeding. A WINTER PIGGERY. Ulldtidw:ddi,... | and fuel, steaming fodder | for catile Will be found | almost a necessity to have | the trough arranged to keep | the swine away, both from | the person who feeds them A eC Be: ss LIVE STOCK. 175 The flow of milk is increased by steaming the fodder—the color of the ‘butter is, however, injured. The same ration will prove more fattening, while, at the same time, there will be litile or no waste, if the steam is well Managed. It is best to have the steamed ration composed of a variety of feed, such as corn-fodder roots, hay or oat straw, with bran and corn meal, or cotton-seed, or linseed-cake, or meal. The substitution of one kind of fodder or meal for another, gives variety and relish. The coarse fodder is cooked soft, and the flavor of the roots and of the meal pervades the mass. | Itis not likely that any of the small agricultural steamers can be made to economically cook the food for as many as twenty-five or thirty head of cattle. When 2a boiler of several horse-power is employed to do other work, as pumping, thrashing, sawing wood, grinding, cutting hay and corn fodder, ete., steam may be economically used for cooking fodder. Of this there can be little doubt. The steam box in which the fodder is placed for cooking, if itis big enough, need not be filled oftener than twice a week, and if, as already intimated, every pains is taken in the operation to save in the items of labor eae : a ae profitable. Convenient Trough.— ze This trough is designed more especially for an out- door or field trough for sum- mer and fall use. It is very desirable with many to feed their swine outside of pens in those seasons, and every farmer is aware that it is — and from the receptacle into which their food is placed while the latter is being prepared. The trough which we illustrate is adapted very perfectly to this purpose. It may form ‘Part of the fence, so that the swine cannot come to the rear, from which side the food is placed in it, and the additional advantage is the shelter of both trough and animals from storms. “The cut requires little explanation. The cover is hung on pins and fastened by a hook and staple on the rear side to keep it down. When food is to be placed in the trough the hook is unfastened and the cover lifted up in the position shown by the dotted lines. By this movement the swine are | completely shut away, and it is very convenient to place and mix their food. A slight effort brings the cover back to its place, and they can then “ go in.” Perhaps sheep feeders might take a useful hint from this plan. Pig Raising.—We will suppose that the farmer has a litter of good, healthy pigs of good stock, one day old. He congratulates himself that, haying escaped the dangers which are so thick at the critical period of far- | rowing, he will have no further trouble. The pigs are lively, and well de- veloped; the mother shows no disposition to eat them, and is careful not to overlie them, There are still two dangers right before the pig raiser 176 THE FARM. into which he may ignorantly ran—but which may be easily avoided—which have caused the death of pigs by the million. The first is overfeeding the — sow with rich, heat-producing feed. I think there is no one cause that ‘ occasioned so much loss as this. Make it an invariable rule to feed sparingly — of corn for the first week. A failure to pay close attention to the matter -of diet at this time will often result in fever, which dries up the milk, the n= sufficiency of which actually starves the pigs to death. When the result is not so bad as this, the sow loses appetite, runs down rapidly in flesh, and — ulthough the pigs live they do not thrive, and before weaning the mother is askeleton. For the first week feed house slops and bran, with but one ear of corn at a feed, and then increase gradually, and by the end of the second week you can feed as heavily as you please. The second danger to yom pigs is that they become diseased for want of exercise. It the sow is kept in a close pen and proves to be a good suckler, it is often the case that in t or three weeks the pigs get so fat as to die. Many a farmer, with a valua’ litter of pigs shut up ina close pen, has seen them die one after the othe until the litter disappeared, and yet he had no idea what was the matter. Lay it down, then, as a second rule in pig raising, that young pigs,must haye exercise. _ Still another important thing is a clean bed. If allowed to sleep in dust they are likely to die of thumps, and if in a wet place or a manure pile, they become mangy, or contract colds and die. But we will suppose that the farmer is wise enough to guard against the dangers I have spoken of, and — has brought the litter safely to the age of four weeks, with the mother in good condition, and having a good appetite. It is now time to begin to pre- pare the pigs for weaning. Make a pen near where you feed the sow, and arrange it so that the pigs can go in and out at pleasure, but let it not be accessible to the sow, and begin feeding with milk and soaked corn. The quantity must be very small at first, and only what they will eat clean. In- crease gradually, and by the time they are eight weeks old they will be eat- ing enough so that they can be weaned without checking their growth. If, as is often the case, there are in the litter two or three pigs that are not qu ie up to the average, it will be good, both for them and the sows, to let them run with the mother a week or two longer than the remainder of the litter. For four months after weaning feed liberally. No matter whether your pigs J are to be kept for breeders, fattened the first fall, or wintered over to be © pastured the next summer and fed the second autumn, the treatment should ~ be the same. Do not aim to make them fat, but get all the development of bone and muscle you can. The food should not be corn exclusively, for we want more of the flesh-formers, and they should have the run of pasture, and be fed on bran slop with the corn. Exercise, a varied diet, with part bulky food and not too much corn, will give a profitable hog. ” Overfeeding Stock.—Overfeeding an animal is worse in its effects than a spare dict. A great many more young animals are checked in their growth, and otherwise injured, by overfeeding than by a deficiency of food. Tn illustration of this statement, a correspondent tells the following story of his own experience: 7 A rather opinionated and willful hired man, who requires the closest watching in feeding the stock, in defiance of strict orders, gave some Berk- shire pigs some cotton seed meal in their feed, in the expectation that it would help them to grow. Their feed had been skimmed milk, with a qu of wheat middlings to the pailful. Considerable more cotton seed meal wa vo 7 ae ; r oa LIVE STOUK. 177 ‘added to the feed during my absence from home fora day and night, and on ‘my return the next day two of the young pigs were taken with convulsiens ‘and severe spasms. They died the next day, when two more were taken, and soon after two more. The whole six died in the same way. First they } slowly turned around and around, then stood with the head in a corner and E against the wall or yard fence; the jaws were chopped together, and ‘they foamed atthe mouth. After a few hours they lay upon their sides and struggled violently with the legs until they died. A dose of lard oil allayed the symptoms for a time, and had it been given at first, would probably have ‘sayed them. On opening them the lungs were found congested and very red in patches, and the brain, also, was much congested, the blood vessels being ‘dark blue. The stomach and intestines were filled with cotton seed meal, ‘the milk having been digesicd. So short a case of indigestion, or stomach ‘Staggers, as it is popularly called, is rare; but the pigs were but two months | old, and had probably been misfed previously. ) A Convenient Feeding Trough.—We give an illustration of a con- ) yenient trough for feeding hogs or sheep. It is especially well designed for | feeding hogs, and may be placed in the pen, the swing door above the trough forming one side. Ri Tf desirable to use it out == = — | of doors, it may form part | ofafence. The construc- | tion is simple. Two up- about four feet high, are nailed to the ends of the trough to support a swing “ff door or partition, which is adjusted so that the lower edge plays back and forth just over the top of the 7 | trough. The view given is A CONVENIENT FEEDING TROUGH. of the rear side of the and the partition is swung forward to shut the animals away while food is being prepared. When ready, the slide is withdrawn, the par- tition swings over the rear side, and the hogs can “goin.” Slats of wood jould be placed across the trough to keep the animals from standing in it, By Swinging the partition high enongh, the hogs may pass under. © sanitary Management of Swine.—One great fault in the manage- ment is to keep too many hogs together in one shed or inclosure. From tee proper protection in the way of housing, hogs are very apt to crowd | : . H gether in bunches during cold weather; and, coming into the sheds wet § dirty, and being obliged to lie either on old and filthy straw bedding or on a wet and damp floor, their sweating and steaming soon produces a foul atmosphere, and the bedding, not being removed at proper intervals, gets and adds to contamination of the air. Being thus packed together in building, the hogs, in a warm and perspiring condition, are next exposed )}t0 the influence of cold winds and wet, by being turned out in the morning hours to run in the field among grass wet with cold dew or from rain or yhoar-frost, or to be fed from troughs in the yard. Among the common con- } are congestion, cold or catarrh, and, if the so-called hog cholera | tex we 178 THE FARM,’ happens to be prevailing, they are almost certain to be affected with th disease, as their systems, under such management, are rendered predispoa or susceptible thereto. In many places the hogs are keptin miserable sheds, no provision being made for proper drainage, the ground sloping toward.the sheds, which frequently being unpaved, or without proper flooring, are con- stantly damp and wet, while pools of urine and filth abound, and with wind and sleet approaching from all quarters. In proportion as the standard 7 breeding has become higher, so has the vital force, energy, and hardi become lessened; and the effects of improper quantity and quality of foo filthy or stagnant water, faulty construction of houses, and undue exposure to atmospheric influences, have become proportionately more baneful. A Good Pig Sty.—We furnish herewith a plan for a good pig sty, with detailed description showing the best manner of constructing the same. Our illustration represents the ground floor, 25 feet wide by 82 feet long. A is 2 entry five feet wide, running the whole length of the building, with a do oor at each end; it is used for feeding, as the troughs in boxes b, b, b, b, r 7 along one side of it. The roof extends only over the entry (a) and the be b, b, b, b. The boxes e, Si a fa rt c, ¢, ¢, are not under t ¢ roof. The whole bulla is floored with plank, w 1] 1) LI ra aslight'depressionin grad toward the front of abou half an inch to the foot, b b b the purpose of drain b The inside partitions a Oo [2] o P Z not be more than a 4 four feet high. The sm: i & -j door between b and c is hung by hinges from the top, so as to open either way, made to work easy, not reaching quite to the floor. The pig soon learns to push it open and pass through, and the door closes after it. When pigs are putinto tht boxes, one corner of the box floor (c) should be made wet, and the pigs ¥ be careful not to wet anywhere else. O, 0, 0, 0, are feeding troughs. height of the building should be seven or eight ‘feet. No bedding is required. Keep the floor clean. 4 Hog Cholera.—The Lewistown Gazette, published in Fulton County, I says: ‘Every paper in the United States ought occasionally to keep the fact before its readers that burnt corn is a certain and speedy cure for hog ch era. The best way is to make a pile of corn on the cobs, effectually score it, and then give the affected hogs free access to it. This remedy was dis- covered by E. E. Lock at the time his distillery in this county was burnec together with a large lot of store corn, which was so much injured as to bi unfit for use, and was hauled out and greedily eaten by the hogs, several © which were dying daily. After the second day not a single hog was lost, and the disease was entirely conquered. The remedy has been tried in ; number of cases since, and never failed.” “a The Washington (lowa) “‘azetfe says Mr. Donahey, of that place, furnishe the following recipe for the cure of hog cholera: To prevent hogs from ha A GOOD PIG STY. LIVE STOCK. 179 g cholera, auinsy, or pneumonia, use one gallon of soft soap, four ounces of itpetre, and half a pound of copperas. Mix well in swill, and feed to about ty hogs in one day. In four or five days give the following: Carbolic acid, cht drams, black antimony, two ounces, half pound of sulphur. Mix lin swill, and feed to about forty hogs in two days. Repeat the above nce a month, and it will prevent any of the above diseases. I have used it or ten years without a single case of any disease among my hogs. _ Asimple cure for hog cholera, says the Kentucky Live Stock Record, is ‘an infusion of peach-tree leaves and small twigs in boiling water, given in heir slop. Peach leaves are laxative, and they probably exert, toa moderate extent, a sedative influence over the nervous system. They have been used as @ worm destroyer with reported success. They have also been recom- mended as an infusion for irritability of the bladder, in sick stomach and whooping cough. The cases of fatal poisoning from their use in children are one as peach leaves contain prussic or hydrocyanic acid, but as it is impossible to poison a hog, their use would not be objectionable. The ¢ is worth a trial. a Pas xoprt of the Georgia Agricultural Department has a statement to the ‘effect that forty cases of hog cholera were averted, if not cured, by turning animals on to a quarter of an acre of clover, to graze for one week. It ‘has long been held that this disease springs mainly from malnutrition, and ‘too much feeding on corn or other carbonaceous food. The fact that clover | —a nitrogenous fodder—in this case averted the threatened disease is of | greatinterest. The culture and use of clover in the South may through this knowledge be greatly extended. Nancy Agree, of Missouri, some years since claimed the $10,000 premium offered by the legislature of that State for a cure for hog cholera. Her spe- Cific is as follows: ‘‘ Take inside bark of the wild cherry tree and boil it down with water so as to make a strong solution, and give it to the hogs to drink, iding them from water. It has proven a perfect cure, even in the last ges of the disease. I also recommend an admixture of the root of the LE nettle.” __ Acorrespondent of the Journal of Agriculture recommends a half tea- of carbolic acid in a gill of milk. This remedy, he states, has been in every case and not only cures but stops the spread of the dis- . Itis administered from the mouth of a long-necked bottle. Pig as a Plowman.—Farmers everywhere, says the American ewturist, are influenced by the construction of railroads and other means ck transportation, but none of them more so than those who grow meat branch of their farm operations. The pork-raisers in the older States come in competition with the swine products of the prairie States, where the pig is a condenser of the corn crop, and among the most economical th of sending that cereal to market—yet even with cheap freights, it il not do for Eastern farmers to abandon the sty, and look to the West for rsaltpork and hams. There are economies to be practiced in swine ising that will make the Eastern farmer successful in his competition with @ West. He has the protection of freights over long distances which can rer be very mtch reduced. The home market will always be remunera- , 80 long as pork products are in demand. His lands need manure, and Which is made in the sty and under cover, is among the best of the home | made fertilizers. Herding swine upon pasture, or old meadow, that needs breaking up, is not very much practiced, but is one of the best methods of 180 THE FARM. raising pigs. They are as easily confined within a movable fence as sheep, utilize the grass and coarse feed quite as well, and perform a work in stir- ring the soil that sheep cannot do. The nose of the pig is made for rooting, and we follow Nature’s hint in giving him a chance to stir the soil. A mova- ble yard, large enough to keep two pigs, can be made of stout inch boards, about fourteen feet long, and six inches wide. . For the corner posts use two by four inch joists. Nail the boards to the posts six inches apart, making four lengths or panels four feet high. Fasten the corners with stout hooks and staples, and you have a pen or yard fourteen feet square, which is easily moved by two men. If you place two fifty-pound pigs into this yard they will consume nearly all the grass and other vegetation in it in three or four days, and thoroughly disturb the soil several inches in depth. When they have done their work satisfactorily, the pen can be moved to the adjoining plat, and so onward through the season. The advantages of this method are, that it utilizes the grass and other vegetation, destroys weeds and in- sects, mixes and fertilizes the surface of the soil about as well as the ordi- nary implements of tillage. In the moyable yard there is thorough work. Even ferns and small brush are effectually destroyed. Worms and bugs are available food for the pig. And it is not the least of the benefits that the small stones, if they are in the soil, are brought to the surface, where they can be seen and removed. ._ The pig’s snout is the primitive plow and crow- bar, ordained of old. No longer jewel this instrument, but put it where it will do the most good, in breaking up old sod ground, and help make cheap pork. Charcoal for Hogs.—-We have but little doubt that charcoal is one of the best known remedies for the disordered state into which hogs drill, usu- ally having disordered bowels, all the time giving off the worst kind of evacu- ations. Probably the best form in which charcoal can be given is in the form of burnt corn—perhaps, because when given in other forms the hogs do not get enough. A distillery was burned in Illinois, about which a large number of hogs were kept. Cholera prevailed among these hogs somewhat extensively. In the burning of buildings a large amount of corn was con- sumed. To this burned and partially burned corn, the hogs had access at will, and the sick commenced recovering at once and a large portion of them got well. Many farmers have practiced feeding scorched corn, putting it into the stove or building a fire upon the ground, placing the ears of corn upon it, leaving them till pretty well charred. Hogs fed on still slops are liable to be attacked by irritation of the stomach and bowels, coming from too free generation of acid, from fermentation of food after eaten. Charcoal, whether it be produced by burning corn or wood, will neutralize the acid, in this way removing the irritating cause. The charcoal will be relished to the extent of getting rid of tke acid, and beyond that it may not be. Hence it is well to let the wants of the hog be settled by the hog himself, tron Hog Troughs.—Upon the subject of the best material for hog troughs, a writer says: ‘‘I make them out of iron, not out of iron-wood, but castiron. I grappled with this problem a half dozen years ago and mas- tered it. I became aninventor. I had an invention put into the form of a model and got the proprictor of an iron foundry to cast eight troughs after the model. They were put into the different pens and they are there now, bright, clean, smooth, sound, and all right, and I expect to leave them just in this shape to my heirs. The model cost $18, and the troughs 6 cents a LIVE STOCK. iat Deiisand they weighed an average of at least 100 pounds. The spout is cast with the trough in one solid piece, and there are also feet cast and at- tached, by which it is fastened to the floor. The corners are made and so is the bottom, so that freezing does not crack them, as the ice does not press against the corners or sides, but around the whole. They are easily cleaned out, as the sloping sides allow the dirt to slide out before a broom, are always in place, and will never wear out. The wear and waste ' and annoyance of modern troughs became unbearable. Now I contemplate _ this part of farm experience with a feeling akin to perfect satisfaction. The trough is not patented.” _ Phosphates Essential to Pigs.—Experiments made by Lehman upon _ young animals showed that food containing an insufficient amount of phos- not only affects the formation of the skeleton, but has an essential in- - fluence upon its separate parts. A young pig was fed one hundred and _ twenty-six days upon potatoes alone; a result of this insufficient food, ra- _chitis (rickets, or softening of the bone). Other pigs, from the same litter, _ fed upon potatoes, leach-out-meat, and additional phosphates, for the same length of time, had a normal skeleton; yet even in these animals there was a difference according to the kind of phosphate _ added. Two that were fed on phosphate of pot- _ ash had porous bones, specifically lighter than _ the others, which were fed upon phosphate and _ carbonate of lime. ___ - Pig Scraping Table.—This table can easily _ be made by a handy man. It is formed by bars of wood fixed into a frame. By using a table of _ this description when scraping pigs, the water _ and hair fall to the ground, and the latter is ef- PIG SCRAPING TABLE. DiRictsalty disposed of It is a simple arrange- _ Ment, and its construction and use will materially aid in neatness and de- : spatch. _ Preparing Food for Swine.—A writer gives the following opinion: _ The present practice with the greater number, I believe, is to prepare food _ for pigs either by steeping, steaming, or boiling, under the belief that cook- ing in any shape is better than giving in the raw state. I am not at present _ prepared to say definitely what other kinds of food may do, raw or cooked, _ with pigs or other domesticated animals, or how the other animals would _ thrive with peas or corn, raw or boiled; but I now assert on the strongest a grounds—by evidence indisputable, again and again proved by _ actual trials in various temperatures, with a variety of the same animals, ¥ variously conducted—that for fast and cheap production of pork, raw peas ¥ ee nr nee ee enone any shape.” Hogs as Producers of Manure.—QOne hog, kept to the age of one year, y "if farnished with suitable material, will convert a cartload per month into a _ fertilizer which will produce a good crop of cern. Twelve loads per year - a by the number of hogs usually kept by our farmers would make | ; substance to grow the corn used by them; or, in other = (ai enapaattaahse A otaried In this way we.can afford gy Ks no other way can it be done without logs 182 THE FARM. Swine Raising.—The American Agriculturist contains the following sensible advice regarding the raising of swine: Pure air helps to make pure blood, which, in the course of nature, builds up healthful bodies. Out-of-door pigs would not show so well at the fairs, and would proba- bly be passed over by judges and people who have been taught to ad- mire- only the fat and helpless things which get the prizes. Such pigs are well adapted to fill lard kegs, whereas the standard of perfection should be a pig which will make the most ham with the least waste of fat, the long- est and deepest sides, with the most lean meat; it should have hone enough to allow it to stand up and help itself to food, and carry with it the evidence of healthy and natural development in all its parts. Pigs which runin a range or pasture have good appetites—the fresh air and exercise give them this—hence they will eat a great variety of food and much coarser than when confined in pens. Nothing need go to waste on the farm for lack of a market. They will consume all the refuse fruits, roots, pumpkins, and all kinds of vegetables, which will make them grow. By extending the root patch and planting the fodder corn thinner, so that nubbins will form on it, and by putting in a sweet variety, the number of pigs may be increased in propor- tion. A few bushels of corn at the end of the season will be ready the next year for any crop, and ten times the advantage accrue to the farm than if as the pigs are usually managed. _Bone Meal for Strengthening Hogs.—Most farmers have noticed that in fattening swine, especially when they are crowded rapidly, they always appear weak in their hind legs, and sometimes lose the use of them entirely. An intelligent farmer says that he and his neighbors have made a practice of feeding bone meal in such cases, and find that a small quantity mixed with the daily feed will prevent any weakness, and strengthen the animals so as to admit of the most rapid forcing. As bone meal is known to be a preventive of cripple ail and weakness in cows, 1t looks reasonable that it should also be a benefit to hogs, which are often confined to a diet con- taining but little bone-making material. : Keeping Hogs Clean.—The floor of a hog pen should be of plank. The pen and hogs can then be kept clean. Ifthe animals are permitted to root up the floor of the pen and burrow in the earth, they will always be in an uncleanly and unwholesome condition, and much food will be wasted. It is quite unnecessary for either the comfort or health of the hogs to let them exercise their natural propensity to root in the ground. The exercise is really a waste of food and takes so much from their growth. Hogs will fat- ten most quickly when they eat and sleep and remain perfectly quiet, as they will do in a dry, warm pen, with a clean plank floor, and bedding of clean straw and plenty to eat. How to Give a Pig Medicine.—At a recent meeting of an English Farmers’ Club, Professor McBride: spoke of the difficulty of administering medicine to a pig. He said: ‘“‘'To dose a pig, which you are sure to choke if you attempt to make him drink while squealing, halter him as you would for execution, and tie the rope end toa stake. He will pull back until the rope is tightly strained. When he has ceased his uproar, and begins to reflect, approach him, and between the back part of his jaws insert an old shoe, from which you have cut the toe leather. This he will at once begin to suck and chew. Through it pour your medicime and he will swallow any . quantity you please.” LIVE STOCK. 183 ‘Hay for Hogs.—Very few are aware of the fact that hay is very bene- ficial to hogs; but it is true, nevertheless. Hogs need rough food as well as horses, cattle or the human race. To prepare it you should have a cutting- box (or hay cutter), and the greener the hay the better. Cut the hay short and mix with bran, shorts or middlings, and feed as other food. Hogs soon _ Jearn to like it, and if soaked in swill or other slop food, it is highly relished _ by them. In winter use for hogs the same hay you feed to your horses, and you will find that, while it saves bran, shorts or other food, it puts on flesh a8 rapidly as anything that can be given them. Paralysis in Pigs.—Pigs are frequently subject to a partial paralysis of the nerves of the lumbar region, by which motion of the hind quarters is rendered difficult or impossible. It sometimes results from inflammation of _ the covering membrane of the spinal cord, caused by exposure tocold. The remedy is to rub turpentine or mustard paste upon the loins, and to give a 4 of saltpetre in the food once a day. Dry pens and protection _ from rains in the hot season are the best preventives. _ Poisonous Swill.—A correspondent of the Prairie Farmer, having eomplained of a disease among his hogs, is told by another correspondent _ that the symptoms are similar to those of hogs of his own, which he is satis- fied died from eating swill that had become poisoned by standing too long. He says: “Chemists say that when swill stands a certain length of time after it has soured, it becomes poisonous. I don’t know that this is so, but I do know that I shall not feed any more old swill.” Roots for Hogs.—Parsnips, carrots, Swedish turnips, and especially zel-wurizels, will all fatten pigs. The roots ought not to be given in Yaw state, but always cooked and mixed with beans, peas, Indian corn, oats, or barley, all of which must be ground into meal. When pigs are fed on _ such cooked food as we have stated, the pork acquires a peculiarly rich flavor, and is much esteemed, especially for family use. Economy in Hog Raising.—One man who let his hogs run on grass _ ,_and artichokes all summer, was sure that his hogs paid him from fifty to _ sixty cents per bushel for the corn they consumed (not counting anything _ for the grass). Another man, who kept his hogs in a pen all summer with- _ out anything but corn and water, did not realize more than ten or fifteen ___ Water for Hogs.—Hogs require free access to water in the summer time. If they can have a place to bathe or wallow in, it is beneficial to them, _ a8 it cools and cleanses the skin. Mund is not filth—it is a good disinfectant _ and healthful. Sometimes mud baths have been found useful as medicinal _ treatment for sick people. “2 Searvy Pigs—tt is said by a farmer who has tried the experiment so _ often as to be sure of his ground, that buttermilk poured over the back of a — entirely and speedily remove the scurf. The remedy is 4 _ Squash for Fattening Hogs.—A New York farmer declares that an __ acre of Hubbard squash will fatten ten more hogs than the corn that can be : raised on the same ground. He has gathered from six to eight tons from an 184 PHE PARM. Hurdling Sheep.—The accompanying illustration shows how an Eng- fishman fed his sheep on an irrigated pasture, by the use of hurdles of (MN BZSS A asaas —————_ ty i h i 4 a | a peculiar description, The hurdles are twelve feet long and are made with « stout pole bored with two series of holes twelves inches apart; stakes six feet long are putinto these holes so that they project from them three feet AN ENGLISH METHOD OF HURDLING SHEEP, | LIVE STOCK. 185 _ Oneach side of the pole. One series of holes is bored in a direction at right - angles to that of the other, and when the stakes are all properly placed they form a hurdle, the end of which looks like the letter X. The engraving = shows how these hurdles are made and the method of using them. A row of these hurdles is placed across the field. The field in which they are used consists of six acres. A strip of ten feet wide is thus set off, upon which four hundred sheep feed. They eat up all the grass upon this strip and that _ which they can reach by putting their heads through the hurdles. The hurdles are then turned over, exposing another strip of rather more than four feet wide at each turn. When this is fed off, the hurdles are again turned over. The sharp points presented by the hurdles prevents auy tres- passing upon the other side of them, and by using two rows of hurdles the sheep are kept in the narrow strip between them. Their droppings are very evenly spread over the field, and it is richly fertilized by them. At night _ the sheep are taken off and the grass is watered. The growth is one inch _ per day under this treatment, and when the field has been fed over, the _ sheep are brought back again to the starting point and commence once _ more eating their way along. _ Raising Feed for Sheep.—The corn raised especially for sheep should be planted in drills, three and one-half feet apart, and about six inches in the drill. It will ear sufficiently, and should be shocked when the ear is just passing out of the milk, in large, well-built shocks. And the most _ profitable use that can be made of this for winter feeding is, to run it _ through a cutter, directly from the shock, reducing to fine chaff, stalks, ears, and all. If cut one-fourth of an inch long, the sheep will eat it all _ clean; this we know from practical experience. With a large cutter, a ton - ean be cut in twenty to thirty minutes. This cut corn, fed in properly ¢on- structed troughs, will furnish both grain and coarse fodder. The onlyim- _ provement you can make on this ration, without cooking, is to feed with it | some more nitrogenous food, such as bran, linseed meal, or cotton’ seed em Wocl is a nitrogenous nese and corn is too fattening a Tation _ flock-masters on this subject. Almost any sheep owner will tell you that _ after a year the sheep gets a pair of broad teeth yearly; and if you show _ that his own three-year-olds have four pairs of broad teeth, he can only _ claim that they are exceptions, and protest that they do not exceed three years of age. Now these cases are no exception, for all well-bred sheep have a tull mouth of front teeth at three years old. Some old, unimproved _ flocks may still be found in which the mouth is not full until nearly four _ years old, but fortunately these are now the exceptions, and should not be _ made the standard, as they so constantly are. In Cotswolds, Leicesters, _. Lineolns, South-Downs, Oxford-Downs, Hampshire-Downs, and even in the _ advanced Merinos, and in the grades of all of these dentition is completed _ from half year to a year earlier: The milk or lamb teeth are easily dis- _ tinguished from the permanent or broad teeth by their smaller size and by the thickness of the jaw bone around their fangs where the permanent teeth _ are still inclosed. As the lamb approaches a year old, the broad exposed - part of the tooth becomes worn away, and narrow fangs projecting above the _ gums stand apart from each other, leaving wide intervals. This is even More marked aher the first pair of permanent teeth have come up, overlap- 186 THE FARM. ping each other at their edges, and from this time onward the number of small milk teeth and of broad permanent teeth can usually be made out with ease. Another distinguishing feature is the yellow or dark coloration of the fangs of the milk teeth, while the exposed portions of the permanent teeth are white, clear, and pearly. The successive pairs of permanent teeth make their appearance through the gums in advanced breeds at about the following dates: The first pair at one year; the second pair at one year and a half; the third pair at two years and three months; the fourth and last pair at three years. It will be observed that between the appearance of the first two pairs there is an interval of six months, while after this each pair come up nine months after its predecessors. For backward grades, and the unimproved breeds, the eruption is about six months later for each pair of teeth, but even with them the mouth is full at three years and six months. Sheep Ticks—How to Get Rid of Them.—Sheep ticks are much more numerous and more annoying than many suppose. Men of experience with large flocks generally know and apply the necessary remedies, but there are hundreds of farmers whose time and attention are principally directed to grain growing, etc., and who keep but a few sheep, whose flocks are sorely troubled by this parasite, and they never discover the cause of the eyil. The accompanying engraving of the insect in its different stages, is from the Cyclo- pedia of Agriculture. The sheep tick or louse lives amongst the wool, and is exceedingly annoying to lambs. Their oval, shining bodies, like the pips of small apples, and similar in color, may be found attached by the pointed end to the wool. (See engraving Fig. 1; Fig. 2, the same magnified.) These are not the eggs, but the pup», which are laid by the female, and are at first soft and white. From these issue the ticks (Fig. 3; Fig. 4, the same magni- fied), which are horny, bristly, and dull ochre; the head is orbicular, with two dark eyes (Fig. 5), and a rostrum in front, enclosing three fine curved tubes (Fig. 6), for piercing the skin and sucking the blood. The body is large, leathery, purse-shaped and whitish when alive, and notched at the apex. The six legs are stout, very bristly, and the feet are furnished with strong double claws. The English remedies are a wash of arsenic, soft soap and potash, decoction of tobacco, train oil with spirits of turpentine, and mercurial ointment. ‘ Ticks, when very numerous, greatly annoy and enfeeble sheep, and should be kept out of the flock if possible. After shearing, the heat and cold, the rubbing and biting of the sheep, soen drive off the tick and it takes refuge in the long wool of the lamb. Wait a fortnight after shearing to allow all to make this transfer of residence; then boil refuse tobacco leaves until the decoction is strong enough to kill ticks beyond a peradventure, This may be readily tested by experiment, Five or six pounds of cheap plug to- FIG. 1.—SHEEP TICKS, MAGNIFIED. LIVE STOCK. 187 _ bacco may be made to answer for one hundred lambs. The decoction is “Si into a deep, narrow dipping tank kept for this purpose, and which _ has an inclined shelf on one side covered With a wooden grate, as shown in ourillustration below (Fig. 2). One man holds the lamb by the hind legs, another clasps the fore legs in one hand, and shuts the other about the nostrils to prevent the liquid entering them, and then the lamb is entirel _ immersed. It is immediately lifted ont, laid on one side on the grate, an ' the water squeezed out of its wool. It is then turned over and squeezed on the other side. The grate conducts the fluid back into the box. If the lambs are annually dipped, ticks will never trouble a flock. ‘ Early Lambs.—In many localities an early lamb will sell for more _ money than will the ewe and her fleece; therefore, where there is a market _ for early lambs the breeding of these is a very profitable business, if the per- son who attempts it is pro- yided with ample shelter and understands the man- agement of both ewes and lambs. Lambs for early market are bred soas to be dropped in February and March. _ February isa hard month to _ bring them through, and without judicious treatment - and warm shelter many lambs will be lost. The chief aim is to get the lambs ready for market as soon as _ possible, as it is the earliest arrivals that gain the high- est prices. It is necessary _ to keep the dams in good condition with sufficient _ food to make plenty of FIG. 2.—TANK FOR DIPPING SHEEP. nourishing milk. Experi- ence and judgment are required in feeding the lambs; they must have food _ enough to promote rapid, healthy growth, and yet of a character that will ‘not produce scouring. While the lambs are still with the ewes, it is well to supply them additional food. They can soon be taught to drink milk which % _is fresh and warm from the cow. Later on, oats, rye and wheat bran finely Nts _ ground together make an excellent feed. As a gentle laxative a few ounces _ Of linseed oil-cake will be found beneficial and at the same time nourishing. _~ As the lambs approach the period for weaning extra food should be in- ereased; indeed, the weaning must be very gradually accomplished. The _ ‘sudden removal of the lambs from their dams is injurious to both. A plan _ generally followed to avoid the evil effects of a sudden change, is that of _ Femoving the lambs to a good pasture of short, tender grass, and at night returning them to the fold with the ewes. The ewes must not be neglected. _ Their feed should be gradually diminished so as to diminish the yield of milk. q fe ~~ |_| How to Make Sheep Pay.—Any farmer in the Eastern or Middle _ States haying a farm of one hundred acres in good fence can keep a flock of q 188 | THE PARM. fifty sheep and receive larger profits than from any other investment of the same amount, providing they will care for them in the following manner, viz.: Have your sheep in good condition when you take them from pasture to winter. Have a sheltered pen, with plenty of room, to protect them from the cold and storms; have an out-yard where they can be allowed to go in on nice sunshiny days, in which throw cornstalks, oat or wheat straw, if you have plenty of it, for what the sheep do not eat will make manure, so there will be nothing lost. Also keep the sheltered pen dry, by throwing in straw, as fast as itis cut upin manure. Feed them on clover hay. If you do not grow any buy it, for one ton of clover hay is equal to two tons of ‘any other for sheep, in my experience. Try and have your lambs dropped in January or February. Build a small pen alongside of your sheep pen, cut a small hole, so the lambs can get in, but not large enough to admit the sheep. Put troughs in the lambs’ pen, and feed them on ground feed. They will soon find the hole and learn to eat, and if you have never tried it before, you will be surprised how much faster they will grow, and you will also find that the butcher will buy your lambs earlier, and pay a larger price for them than he will for your neighbor’s, who does not observe the above advice. ' Feed Rack for Sheep.—Feed racks for stocks are indispensable articles of furniture in the sheds and yards of the farm. We give an engraving of one of these, designed especially for sheep. Its dimensions are thirty inches high, twenty- eight wide, bottom formed by nailing together four boards, eight or nine inches wide, in FEED RACK FOR SHEEP. the shape of two troughs, or the letter W, resting on the © eross piece B. The novel feature, perhaps, is the cant boards A A, which are hinged and then fastened by movable braces. These boards serve as par- ticular shelter to sheep, both from storm and chaff from fodder; and by moving the braces they assume a vertical position, and thus keep out the sheep while one is filling in the grain. Why Sheep are Profitable.—Sheep are profitable for several reasons, among them being the small expense of maintaining a flock. By that we do not mean the plan pursued by many of turning them into the woods and fields to be called up oceasionally to be ‘‘ salted,” but they cost but little when cared for, because they are not choice in the matter of feeding. They greedily devour much that would be unserviceable, and for that reason are a necessary adjunct on a farm as a measure of economy. Where they become serviceable mostly is on those pastures that are deticient in long grass, and which are not used for making hay. It is on this short grass, even if scatter- ing, that the sheep pick up good feeding and thrive well. In fact, long grass is not acceptable to sheep, as they graze close to the ground. A flock of sheep would almost starve in a field of tall clover, and will quickly leaye such for the privilege of feeding on the short herbage that grows in the fence corners, in the abandoned meadows, and among the wheat stubble. The crab grass, which becomes a weed on light soils, is highly relished by sheep when just beginning to spread out, and even the purslane is kept down by ‘ LIVE STOCK. 189 them. Fields from which the corn has been harvested afford them much yaluable pasturage, and they are always able to derive something for food on places that would support no other animal. In saying this it is not in- ferred that they require no care atthe barn. They surely do, but require _ less than may be supposed. ‘They are also great reuovators of the soil, scattering manure evenly and L it in, thus improving the ground on which they ieed. They multiply _ rapidly, a small flock soon becoming a large one, and they produce profit in ' three directions—wool, mutton and lambs. ‘ar the Noses of Sheep.—The months of July and August are the ones _ when sheep in many localities are subject toa most aggravating annuyance from a fly (oestrus bovis), which seems bound to deposit its larve in the nostrils. It infects wooded districts and shady places where the sheep _ resort for shelter, and by its ceaseless attempts to enter the nose makes the ~ poor creature almost frantic. If but one fly is ina flock they all become agitated and alarmed. They will assemble in groups, holding their heads _ close together and their noses to the ground. As they hear the buzzing of the little pest going from one to another, they will crowd their muzzles into the loose dirt, made by their stamping, to protect themselves, and as the __ pest succeeds in entering the nose of a victim, it will start on a run, followed by the whole flock, to find a retreat from its enemy, throwing its head from side to side, as if in the greatest agony, while the oestrus, having gained his _ lodging place, assiduously deposits its larve in the immer margin of the nose. _ Here, aided by warmth and moisture, the eggs quickly hatch into a small _ maggot, which carrying out its instincts, begins to crawl up into the nose _ through a crooked opening in the bone. The annoyance is fearful and mad- _ dening, as it works its way up into the head and cavities. — g The best known remedy is tar, in which is mixed a small amount of crude _ earbolic acid. If the scent of the acid does not keep the fly away he gets _ entangled in the tar, which is kept soft by the heat of the animal. Any kind _ of tar or turpentine is useful for this purpose, and greatly promotes the com- _ fort of the sheep, and prevents the ravages of the bot in the head. q ee orn vod is promoted by its use. It is administered in the proportion of one part of chloride to nine parts of salt. It not only _ increases the production of wool, but improves the quality, and promotes _ the general health of the animal, we are told; but the proper quantities to administer are not stated. _ fo Cure Poisoned Sheep.—Take rue leaves, as many as you can grasp _ between thumb and forefinger. Bruise them; squeeze the juice into a half _ teacup of water, and drench the sheep with it. If the sheep are poisoned _ very bad, drench the second time, which will never fail to cure. _ Crossing Merino on Common Sheep.—A Memno ram crossed on a _ flock of common sheep will double the yield of wool through the first cross alone, thus paying for himself the first season. THE POULTRY YARD. A Poultry House for Chickens.—The poultry house we have illustrated is designed for young chicks. It can be attached toa coop, and is made of laths. It is the length of a lath and half a lath in height. Such an arrangement allows the mother some room to move about, and enables the young chicks to reach air and sun. Almost any bright boy can nail the laths together, and it will materially increase the chickens’ chances of life. Remember that the first few Gays are the most critical and require extra attention. More fowls are destroyed in infancy, like humans, by injudicious feeding than at any other time. The first four weeks’ management of the young chicks is everything, for no after cares can compensate for neglect. during the critical period. For the first twenty-four hours no food should be given the chicks of any kind. At first there may be given hard-boiled egg, chopped fine. This need only be given for two or three days when the food should be : changed to one consisting ~ A POULTRY HOUSE FOR CHICKS, of oatmeal cooked in milk, to which an egg Has been added. The second week the milk and oatmeal gruel, stiffly made, should be continued, and good wheat screenings allowed also. After the second week the food may be varied so as to consist of anything they will eat, but do not confine them to a single article of dict, as disease of the bowels may occur. Green grass, cooked vegetables and milk may be given freely. The chicks should not be allowed to roam outside with the hen, if possible, until the sun is well up, as dampness is more injurious to them than cold. When very young feed every two hours, as feathers, bone and meat are forming fast, requiring plenty of nourishment. When cleanliness is observed but few diseases appear. Never let a surplus of food remain after the feeding is over, but see that they are sufficiently supplied before taking the excess away. Young chicks are not troublesome to raise if a little system and care are practiced. A Model Hennery.—The breeding of new and choice varieties of poultry has grown to be quite an extensive industry in this country during the past few years, and it is not entirely confined to those who make it a business, either, as many of our farmers have learned, at last, that it pays to devote more time and attention to the raising and care of poultry than they formerly were willing to give to it. The model hennery herewith illusteated and de- scribed combines all the essential requisites for convenience, cleanliness, the ~ THE POULTRY YARD. 198 hes#h oi dhe fowls, and the separation of the different varieties, together with all the modern improvements, from which many good hints may be ob- tained, if not wishing to adopt the plan just as it stands. This building is nearly 75 feet long, 13 feet high, and 12 feet wide. It is built of wood, the roof shingled. To the highest pitch of the roof it is 13 =~. SLY 7a 7 DOO. - isd ET! & *“NOLLVANTA—AUANNGA TACON V PPE SLL EL A. ERK | Reema eet feet. The elevation or height from the ground or foundation in front‘is 4 feet, which cuts a twelve-foot board into three pieces, the length or pitch of the roof in front is 12 feet—just the length of a board, saving a few in ‘hes of sg ragged end; the pitch of the rear roof is 6 feet, and the height of the . mild- ing from the gronrd to the base of the roof is just 6 feet, which cuts a tw sive- foot board into two pieces. The ground plan and frame work are plat ned on the same principles of economy of timber. By this pian no timber & — 92 THE FARM. wasted, as it all cuts out clean; there is also a great saving of labor. The foundation of the building rests on cedar posts set four feet into the ground. This house contains eight pens, each one of which will accommodate from twenty-five to thirty fowls; each pen is nine feet long and eight feet wide. All the pens are divided off by wire partitions of one inch mesh, Each pen has a glass window on the southern front of the house, extending from the gutter to within one foot of the apex of the roof, fixed in permanently with French glass lapping over each other, after the fashion of hot-bed sashes; they are about eleven by three feet. Each pen is entered by a wire door six feet high, from the hallway, which is three feet wide; and these doors are carefully fastened with a brass padlock. The house is put together with matched boards, and the grooves of the boards are filled in with white lead and then driven together, so as to make the joints impervious to cold or wet. On the rear side of the house there are A MODEL HENNERY.—END VIEW OF INTERIOR. four scuttles or ventilators, two by two feet, placed equidistant from each other, and to these are attached iron rods which fit into a slide with a screw, so that they can be raised to any height. These are raised, according to the weather, every morning, to let off the foul air. Each pen has a ventilator besides the trap door at the bottom, same size, which communicates with the pens and runs. These lower ventilators are used only in very hot weather, to allow a free circulation through the building, and in summer each pen is shaded from the extreme rays of the sun by thick shades fastened upon the inside, so that the inside of the house is cooler than the outside. The dropping boards extend the whole width of the pen, and are about two feet wide and sixteen inches from the floor; the roosts are about seven inches above and over this board. They are three inches wide and crescent- shaped on top, so that the fowls can rest a considerable portion of their bodies on the perches. Under these dropping boards are the nest boxes, where the fowls lay, and are shaded and secluded. The feeding and drink. : : terial is under $500. THE POULTRY YARD. 193 ing troughs are made of galvanized iron, and hung with hooks on eyes, so that they can be easily removed when they require cleaning. One can stand at one end of this long house and see all the chickens on their roosts. By seeing each other in this way the fowls are made compan- jionable and are saved many a fero- cious fight; at the same time each kind is kept separate from the other. Each pen has a run 33 by 12and 15 feet; these runs are separated by wire fences 12 feet high, with meshes of 2 inches. The honse is sur- rounded with a drain which carries off all the moisture and water, and pre- vents dampness. In- side the house is cemented all through, and these cemented floors are covered with gravel two inches deep. The house is heated in the cold weather “ASH0OH AWLIOOd WIAVAON - oth sptamaap to keep = Sop Soses scones. watér from freezing. SSesetessooe The plan of this hen- Sap coesosscons nery is remarkable Ppsssoseccsoose for its simplicity and eoss Se x) " hygienic arrange- ment. The cost of the labor and ma- +. yy COR ©? Movable Poul- * try House.—Those 2 who have tried moy- able poultry houses regard them as ex- ceedingly profitable arrangements, and very desirable. We give an illustra- tion of one in use in England, which is mounted on wheels, with a floor raised high enough above ground to form a dry run. It has a set of mova- ble laying nests at back, outside flap-door with lock, large door with lock, ’ for attendant, small sliding door and ladder for fowls, two shifting perches, 194 THE FARM. and sliding window. The benefit birds of all description derive from change of place, not only arises from the pleasure every animal as well as man de- rives from changes of scene, but by being preserved from the exhalations emitted by excrementitious matter and decaying food. Model Poultry House.—We give a een of poultry house and yards, combining many good ee My se ota is enloed ‘ with worked spruce or pine boards, put on ver- | tically, and the height so CT META dant peril ai on ine ELEVATION.—LENGTH, 24 FEET; WipTH, 11 rent; All the pieces are cut off HEIGHT, IN FRONT, 9 1-2 FEET; HEIGHT, INREAR, Of the full lengths in 6 1-2 FEET. * front, making just half a rear length. The rafters of thirteen feet joist, with either battened or shingle roof as preferred. The building is supposed to face the south. The entrance door, B, opening into the passage, P, three and a half feet wide, which runs the length of the build- ing; smaller doors, D, each two feet wide, opening into the roosting room, R. The nests are raised about a foot from the floor, and also open into the room R, with a hinged board in the passage, so that the eggs can be removed with- out entering the roosting rooms. The perches, A, are movable, perfectly level, and raised two feet from the floor. The parti- tion walls are’ tight, two boards high, above which is lath; the passage wall above the nest, and also the doors, D, being of lath also. The roosting-rooms are seven and a half by eight feet, large enough for twenty-five fowls each. Win- dows are six feet square, raised one foot from the floor. We prefer the glass z to be six by eight or seven by nine inches—as these small sizes need no protec- tion strips to prevent the ~ fowls from breaking them. PLAN AND YARD. The holes, H, for egress and ingress of the fowls, are closed by a drop door worked by a cord and pulley from the passage way. Another door can be placed in the other end of the passage way if desirable. This arrangement of the yards, Y, of course would not suit every one; some would prefer smaller yards, making each yard the width of the room and adding to its height. The house above is designed for only three varieties; but by simply adding to the length, any number of breeds may be accommodated. The simplest and most economical founda- tion ig to set locust or oak posts about four feet deep, every eight feet, and aa few of the more tender va- _ +engraving,with stakes driven - inthe ground on each side _ Of the boards at intervals, to _ keep them from falling over. _ Put up in this manner the Stakes can be withdrawn at _ will and the inclosure moved - a8 often as desirable. For | partitions our engraving has _ 8hown a light wire mesh, _ which is easy to handle and _ can be procured at a very small cost. This is fastened into position by pite _ cold weather; and we be- and most convenient house _ hammer and nails. Any re- _ fuse boards and odd pieces are all that are necessary to be set in any desired posi- _ tion, then fenced in with THE POULTRY YARD. 195 spike the sills on them. There is then no heaving from frost; and all the underpinning necessary is a board nailed t= the sill and extending into the ground a couple of inches. A se*ting room can be added by making the building four feet longer. The room should be in the end next the door, so as to be always within notice. Such a house built of seasoned lumber and well battened, will shelter any fowls — excepting, perhaps, the Spanish, Leghorns, and rieties—from all ordinarily lieve it to be the cheapest for general use. Chicken and Duck In- closure.—We present here- with a plan for chicken or duck coops, with inclosures, which will be found very convenient fixtures in any poultry-yard. These coops are made so that they are movable, and can be con- structed by almost any one conversant with the use of a build them. The coops can boards twelve to sixteen inches wide, as shown in our *"HWOSOIONI MOOd GNV NOMOIHO ning down with wooden pins, which, in this way, is made also movable. Caponizing.—Caponizing is not a very difficult operation, and any one who is blessed with the average amount of brains and common sense can _ soon learn to caponize as quiekly and as successfully as an “expert.” We y know that some one will probably tell you that the instruments used are *yery delicate,” and the _ cun only be safely performed by an ex- 196 THE FARM. pert; but don’t believe it. We once wrote out the directions for caponizing, and sent them to a lady who was anxious to know how to perform the opera- tion. With the written directions before her, she first operated on some half-dozen of cockerels that had been killed for table use, and then tried her hand on the living birds, with excellent success. In three days, besides doing her usual housework, she caponized 162 cockerels, and only three of them died from the effects of the operation. If you live near any one who understands caponizing, and is willing te teach others, go and learn how, but if you cannot do that, go and get a set of instruments and teach yourself. A set of caponizing instruments consists of a pointed hook, a steel splint with a broad, flat hook at each end, a pair of tweezers, and a pair of crooked concave forceps. In the first place, killa young cockerel and examine it carefully, so that you will be able to tell the exact position of the organs to be removed. You will find them within the cavity of the abdomen, attached to the back, one on each side of the spine. They are light colored, and the size varies with the age and breed. After you have “located” the parts to be removed, practice the opera- tion on chickens that have been killed, until you are sure that you can oper- ate quickly and safely; then you may try your hand on the living birds. Place the bird onits left side in a rack that will hold it firmly in position without injuring it, or else draw the wings back and fasten them with a broad strip of cloth; draw the legs back and tie them with another strip; then let the attendant hold the fowl firmly on the table, one hand on the wings and head, the other on the legs, while you perform the operation. Remove the feathers from a spot a little larger than a silver dollar, at the point near the nip, upon the line between the thigh and shoulder. Draw the skin back- ward, hold it firm while you make a clean cut an inch and a half long be- éween the last two ribs, and lastly through the thin membrane that lines the abdominal cavity. In making the last cut, take care and not injure the in- testines. Now take the splint and separate the ribs by attaching one of the hooks to each rib, and then allowing the splint @ spread; push the intestines away with a teaspoon handle, find the testicles; take hold of the membrane that covers them and hold it with the tweezers; tear it open with the hook; grasp the spermatic cord with the tweezers, and then twist off the testicle with the forceps. Remove the other in the same way. The left testicle is usually a little farther back than that on the right, and should be removed first. During the operation take care not to injure the intestines, or rupture the large blood vessels attached to the organs removed. The operation completed, take out the splint, allow the skin to resume its place, stick on some of the feathers that were removed, which will absorb the blood and cover the wound; give plenty of drink, but feed sparingly on soft cooked food for a few days, or until they begin to move around pretty lively. To prepare cockerels for caponizing, shut them up without food or drink for twenty-four hours previous to the operation, for if the intestines are full the operation will be more difficult and dangerous. Cockerels that are in- tended for capons should be operated upon between three and four months of age. Cockerels of any breed may be caponized, but of course the larger breeds are the best. A cross between the Light Brahmas and Partridge Cochins will produce extra large cockerels for capons, but only the first cross is desirable. Capons grow fully one-third larger than the ordinary male fowl of the same age and breed. Their flesh is more delicate and juicy, and they command prices, from thirty to fifty per cent. higher than common poultry, but outside the largest cities there is no market for them, . & ‘ THE POULTRY YARD. 197 Geod 2nd Cheap Incubators.—For the benefit of those who desire to experience some of the pleasures and profits of artificial incubation, we here give a model of a very simple and reliable incubator, with directions for making the same. Have a pine case made somewhat like a common washstand (see Fig. 2) without the inside divisions. About a foot from the floor of this ease, place brackets like those in Fig. 1, and on a level with these screw a strong cleat across the back of the ease inside. These are to support the tank. The tank should be made of gal- yanized iron, three inches deep and otherwise proportioned to fit exactly within the case and rest upon the brackets and cleat. The tank should 5, 1 srr oF INCUBATOR. FRONT have a top or cover soldered on when = gecrion—r, TANK; LC, LAMP CLOS- itis made. At the top of this tank in ET, B B, BRACKETS. the center should be a hole an inch in diameter with a rim two inches high, and at the bottom, toward one end, a faucet for drawing off the water. When the tank is set in the case fill up all the chinks and cracks between the edges of the tank and the case with plas- ' ter Paris to keep all fumes of the lamp from the eggs. Fill the tank at least two inches deep with boiling water. To find when the right depth is required, gauge the water with a small stick, Over the top of the tank spread fine gravel a quarter of an inch thick; ‘ over this lay a coarse cot- ton cloth. Place the eggs on the cloth, and set a kero- sene safety-lamp under the center of the tank. The door of the lamp- closet must have four holes for ventilation, otherwise the lamp will not burn. The lamp-closet is the space within the incubator under the tank. Turn the eggs carefully every morn- ing and evening, and after turning sprinkle them with quite warm water. Two FIG. 2.—INCUBATOR CLOSED. thermometers should be kept in the incubator, one half way between the center and each end; the average heat should be 105 degrees If the eggs do not warm up well, lay a piece of coarse carpet over them. If they are too warm, take out the lamp and open the cover for a few min- utes, but do not let the eggs get chilled. If they should happen to get down to 98 degrees, and up to a 108 degrees, you need not think the eggs are _ Spoiled. They will stand such a variation once in a while; but of course a uniform temperature of 105 degrees will secure more chickens, and they wi 328 THER FARM. be stronger and more lively. In just such an incubato? as the one de- scribed, the writer hatched over two hundred chickens two years ago. For those who are ambitious to try top heat, the same sort of a tank is required, but a boiler must be attached at the side with an upper and lower pipe for circulation. Any plumber can attach the boiler, and 4 the faucet must be at the bottom of the boiler ou one side. The drawers containing the eggs should slide be- neath the tank. A stand FIG. 8.—TOP HEAT INcUBATOR, on TABLE, fr the lamp should be screwed to one end of the case in such a position as to bring the lamp under the boiler (see illustration above). This incubator can be cooled by raising the lid, turning down the lamp and pulling the drawers part way out. In both incubators while the eggs are hatching sprinkle them two or three times with quite warm water. After the chicks are ines they need a warm coyer, a good run, plenty ‘of clean gravel, fresh water, fine —— eracked corn, and green food jj every day. How to Raise Artificially- Hatched Chickens.—The fol- lowing article is from the pen of a gentleman who has given the matter of the artificial hatching of chickens much careful study, and he tells how to successfully raise the young chicks after being so hatched: “Tt is evident to the most casual observer that chickens hatched without a mother must be raised without a mother. Born orphans, they must re- main orphans. When my sist cy produced the first chick, what a com- > motion there was in the house. The birth of a baby wouldn’t have been a circumstance to it; and while the women-folks would have known what to do with a new baby, we all looked at one another with blank bewilderment when the question was asked what we should do with the new chick. The thermometer outside was FIG. 4.—FORM OF TANK. Fia. 1. point, while in the incubator _fhe temperature was 105 degrees. The little chick’s hair stood on end, and he was panting for dear life. Hemustcome out of there, and as his brothers _ and sisters were following him out of the shells, we began to prepare all — sorts of receptacles for them. We rigged up a mother on the heater, and put in it several chicks that lived a few hours and then died. We de- eided it was too cold, so we put others in a box and put them back in the © down nearly to the freezing — a THE POULTRY YARD. 199 -ineubator, where some of them were smothered with the heat. It waa evident something must be done, or we would soon have no chicks to experiment with. I determined in my own mind that a temperature of about ninety degrees would be correct, so I rigged up the brooder and started the lamp, put in the thermometer, and when the proper degree of heat was ' reached, put what was left of the chicks into the brooder, and they began to brighten up. The problem was sclved, though its solution cost me the lives of many fine chicks. “With further experience, I find the following treatment a complete suc- cess: After the chick breaks the shell, let him scramble around and dry himself in the incubator, which will generally take a few hours, though some are much strong- er than others. After too much exercise they begin to pant, and _ should, of course, be removed. I have a box twelve inches square and six inches high. To the lid of this tack strips of woolen cloth an inch wide and two inches apart. These rags FIG. 2. should hang within two inches of the bottom. -Put a half inch of dry sand in the box. The brooder is kept at a temperature between eighty and ninety degrees. The young chicks, when perfectly dry, are taken from the oven and putin the box, and the box put in the where the other chicks are. Air holes should be cut in the lid of the box, for if cut in the side the other chicks peck out the feathers of the little ones through these holes. This box keeps the chicks warm, and they soon brighten np, and at the end of twelve hours are ready to take the first lesson in eating. Take a hard boiled egg and chop the white and yelk up together as fine as grains of wheat; with it cover the bottom of a little pan es, —the top of a blacking box will do. Place this in the box with the chicks, and, while tapping with the finger in the feed, repeat = ‘tuck, tuck,’ like the clucking of a hen (Fig. 1). A little patience, and one chick will ok. ; see something and peck at it, : when the others will follow 3 suit, and in a few minutes the - first lesson is learned. After FIG. 3. a few meals, with this process repeated, it will be only nec- easary to rap on the box, and the little fellows will be ready for their meal, ___ and also be spry enough to be put out of the box and run with the others in the brooder. _ ___* The next lot of chicks I feed as follows: Stale wheat bread is soaked in _ water. A cupful of oatmeal or rice has boiling water poured over it, and is _ Stirred until it takes up all the water. I mix two handfuls of soaked bread, _ With the water squeezed out, with one handful of this oatmeal, and dry it all with unbolted cornmeal until it crumbles freely. A little salt is mixed up with it. This, with a little meat once a day, is their sole feed, and it is given _ about every three hours until the chicks are a week old, or until the wing? 460 THE FARM. are large enough to cover their backs, when they are putin a pen. This lot is fed the above mixture five or six times, with meat or worms once a day, and a head of cabbage is hung in the pen for them to peck at. The bottom of this pen is covered with dry sand and ashes, with a pile of old mortar and broken oyster shells to be picked over. ‘For a water fountain I use a small tin pan, covering with a stone all the top except just enough to allow the chicks to drink, as shown at Fig. 2. Turn the open part next to the wall, so the little things cannot scratch dirt into it. Chicks are very fond of scratching the feed out of the pan. To prevent this I take a sheet of tin (Fig. 3), bend it over, and put the feed under the bent part. This prevents their treading on or scratching out the feed, and caters to their natural taste for hunting under things for food. It is also cleaned more readily than a pan. ‘The body of the brooder (Fig, 4) is made of zinc, with an air-chamber over and under the back end. The lamp setting under it sends the heat up through the heater and out through the top, where a nursery for young or sick chicks is placed to utilize the waste heat. This form of brooder, with a warm chamber and the chicks feeding in the >, open air, I believe to be bet- ter than those where the chicks are never subjected to a cool atmosphere. The short stay while they feed in the open air tends to harden and invigorate them. All brooders, boxes, or pens, used to keep large numbers of chicks in, should have the bottom lined with zinc, as wood or earthis sure in time = to become saturated with BROODER.—FIG. 4. excrement, no matter how clean you try to keep it, and it is the ammonia arising from these tainted floors that causes such pens in time to prove fatal to the chicks. I promised to tell the truth about my experience in hatching the eggs, and here it is: The last eggs that hatched out were bought October 10th. Up to that time I had purchased one hundred and. five eggs at thirty cents a dozen. About one-third of these proved unfertile, and were cooked and eaten, or hard-boiled and fed to the young chicks, leaying about seventy-five eggs for the incubator to work on. Out of these I now have twenty-seven as fine chicks as I ever saw. By my own awkwardness and want of experience, I have killed or lost fully one dozen. My machine was an old one, and the battery was worn out. The gauge never was worth a cent. All the defect- ive parts have been renewed except the gauge, and I have learned to doctor that. Owing to the above faults, the temperature in the oven has run too Bow for days at a time, and for hours it has been at 82 degrees, while it hag ee au 4 e THE POULTRY YARD, 2 taken short trips as high as 110 degrees. The only wonder is that I got a chicken out of any of the eggs. It is astonishing how much an egg will stand. “From my experience with hens I am satisfied I will be able to get more chicks from a given num- ber of eggs with the incu- bator than I ever could with hens. It would be a poor hand who could not raise from a fourth to a third more chicks with brooders than with the best hens.” Packing Eggs for Market.—We present here- with three different styles or methods of packing eggs for shipment or for storage, any one of which will be found simple, inexpensive and practical. Our illustration, Fig. 1, represents a subsiantial carrying case, with, nine drawers, jhe frames of which are of wood covered with canvas or sacking, with cords or strings underneath, for the purpose of keeping the eggs in their places. The sacks, at the top and bottom, have depressions, as shown in the cover of the engraving, so that the eggs fit.snugly and are not liable to be displaced by handling or trans- porting. Each alternating layer, coming between these depressions in each box or drawer, fills up the inter- stices perfectly. Witk proper care these cases will last for years, are always ready for packing and can be filled as the eggs are laid, thus avoiding repeated handling. The eggs can also be kept in them per- fectly secure when the owner desires to hold his = stock for better market, FIG. 2.—COMMON TRANSPORTING CASE. There are nine layers or drawers of eggs in this box, each layer containing eight dozen, or a total ofseventy-two dozen of eggs. Fig. 2. shows a cheaper case in every respect. It is a common packing box, made with paste or binders’ board partitions, and each layer of eggs. 202 THE FARM. covered with the same material. One point comnected with packing in these boxes the shipper should know and guard against; that is, it is sometimes the case that the pasteboard cover, on which the eggs are placed, is com- posed of two pieces, and during transporting or handling these pieces be- come displaced, or pass each other; then the eggs above drop down on the lower ones and break them. This difficulty, however, can easily be avoided by passing a piece of stiff paper over the joints, which will prevent them passing each other. Any sized box desired can be used for this style of case, and, with a little care on the part of the packer of the eggs, can be carried as safely as with any of the patent boxes now in vague. Fig. 3 consists of an outside case or crate, in which are fitted a number of trays with cord laced through the sides and ends, dividing the spaces into small squares or meshes, and making a delicate spring, which responds to the slightest jar. Rows of pockets are suspended from the cord work, giy- ing to each a separate apartment, and so arranged that no jar nor jolt the carrier may receive can cause one egg to strike an- other, and being thus sepa- rated, a free circulation of air is obtained, which pre- vents heating by any pos- sibility. Each tray is pro- vided with a protector, which keeps the eggs in the pocket even though the car- rier be overturned. As each tray contains a certain can ever occur, and the pur- chaser can determine at a glance both the number and quality of the eggs. By can pack as well as a man. One of these carriers, the size shown, will hold sixty dozen of eggs. Milk for Hens.—Fanny Field thus expresses herself as to the food value — of milk for hens: ‘‘I quite agree with the correspondent of the American Pouliry Yard, who declares there is no feed on earth so good for fowls and ~ shicks as milk in some form. For very young chicks we make the clabbered milk into Dutch cheese, and use the whey to mix feed for other fowls and ~ chickens. From the time they are a week old till sent to market for broilers, © our early chicks have all the milk, sweet or sour, or buttermilk, that they can drink. If the home supply of milk falls short of the demand, we buy skim milk at two cents a quart, and consider it cheap at that. For laying hens in winter there is nothing better than a liberal supply of milk. A pan of warm milk, with a dash of pepper in it, every morning, will do more toward inducing hens to lay in cold weather than all the egg-food in crea- tion. For fattening fowls, we find that boiled vegetables mixed with milk and barley or cornmeal will put on flesh at an astonishing rate. Don’t be afraid to give milk to fowls or chicks; from the fme when the chicks are given the first feed up to within the last day of the old fowl’s life, milk may — be safely and profitably given,” , ve number, no errors in count — FIG. 3,—SUSPENSION EGG CARRIER. using this carrier a child — oo THE POULTRY YARD. 208 Poultry Keeping for Profit.—During the year 1884, Mr. Henry Stewart contributed to the New York Times a series of articles containing many -yaluable suggestions for those who wish to make poultry-keeping a busi- ‘ness. His plan is briefly as follows: Each yard is to consist of a plot of _ ground about» 100x400 feet, containing nearly one acre, with a suitable _ fence. The house is placed in the center of the yard and a cross-fence on a - line with the house divides it into two parts. These two parts are alter- nately sown thickly with some crop that will afford forage for the fowls. In September they are placed on one side sown thickly with turnips. The other is immediately plowed up and sown with rye. The fowls will do very _ well for the winter in one side, with an occasional day in the green rye. In November wheat is sown, after the turnips are eaten off. In April we may sow oats, in May corn, in June rape or mustard seed and in July begin the rotation again with rutabagas. : As a rule a house twenty-five feet long, ten feet wide, eight feet high im the front and five feet in the rear, will be quite large enough for the one hundred fowls to be kept in each yard. This should be cleaned at least once a week, the oftener the better. The inside walls are quite smooth, hav- . ing no fixtures except the roosting poles, which are on a level one foot from _ the ground. This leaves no harbor for vermin. The nests are loose boxes. Mr. Stewart also suggests that where a series of yards are kept, the inside fences may be movable, so that while the fowls are all confined to one side, a may be removed from the other, thus facilitating the plowing and planting. “Tt is evident,” he adds, “ that this system will greatly enrich the soil, and this may be turned to good account by raising fruit trees in the poultry yards. No other fruit crop pays so well as plums, but none is so hard to grow on account of the pestiferous curculio. But when plums are grown in @ poultry. yard this insect has no chance. The sharp eyes of the fowls let no rogue escape, and one can raise plums with success and profit. As 200 of these trees can be planted on one acre, there is a possibility of $400 per acre from the fruit as well as $200 from the fowls; for every hen well cared for should make a clear profit of two dollars in the year. The yards may be planted with dwarf pear trees, with equal profit or more, because 300 of them may be placed on one acre. The shade of these trees is invaluable.” It is also recommended that a row or small grove of Norway Spruce, Arbor-vitze _ or Austrian pine be planted each side of the house to serve as a wind break _ for the fowls in winter. Raising Chickens by Artificial Mothers.—Mr, E. 8. Renwick writes _ from a large experience upon the above subject, i e American Agricul- __ turist. He says: _ When a fancier raises forty or fifty chickens a year, as amusement, the amount of care which he gives them is never taken into account; but if the _ number of chickens be increased to several hundreds, some means must be byided by which so large a number can be taken care of without too much . For supplying warmth and protection to young chickens, various _ “artificial mothers,” or “ brooders,” have been devised. Those in the mar __ Ket are well enough adapted to the raising of a small number of chickens of _ nearly the same age, but it becomes a difficult matter when from two hun- _ dred and fifty to five hundred are to be raised, and of all ages, from those _ Just hatched to those large enough for broilers. Young chickens must have Plenty of air, exercise and wholesome green food; and means of protection 204 THE FARM. against injury must be provided. Whore young chickens of different ages are together, the elder tyranmze over the younger, the newly-hatched chickens being frequently trampled to death, or are driven away fron their food by the stronger. Young chickens are yery often lost in the grass when at liberty, and are frequently wet and chilled. Hencé, to successfully 2a raise a large number of chickens by hand, various means must be provided by which those of different ages can be separated, and by which the chickens" can be protected and at the same time have sufficient liberty for exercise and development in the open air. A Rustic Poultry House.—The rustic poultry house here illustrated ia not only convenient, but designed to beautify the poultry yard of any ama- teur or breeder. For the rustic work, join four pieees of sapling in an ob- Jong shape for sills; confine them to the ground; erect at the middle of each < of the two ends a forked post, of suitable height, in order to make the sides quite steep; join these with a ridge pole; put on any rough or old boards from the apex down to the __ ground; then cover it with — bark, cut in rough pieces, from half £0 a foot square, laid on and confined in the same manner as ordinary shingles; fix the back end in the same way; and the front can be latticed with little poles, with the bark on, arranged diamond fash- ion, as shown in the en- graving. The door can be made in any style of rustic - form. The roosts, laying — and setting boxes. can be — : placed inside of the house, A RUSTIC POULTRY HOUSE. in almost any position, either lengthwise or in the rear. From the directions here given one can easily build a house of any desired size, and in any location in the poultry yard he wishes; but to make the rusticity ‘of the Louse show off to the best advantage it should be placed amid shrubbery. The Hatching Period.—Setting hens should haye a daily run. Do not — remove them forcibly from their nests, but let the door be open every day at a given hour for a cértain time while the attendant is about. Perhaps for the first day or two you may have to take them gently off their nests, and deposit them on the ground outside the door. They will soon, however, — learn the habit and come out when the door is open, eat, drink, haye a dust-— bath and return to their nests. While hens are off their nests some people dampen the eggs with luke- warm water. Itis claimed that moisture is necessary, and that the chicks ~~ gain strength by the process. This may be correct, and in yery dry weather, perhaps, necessary. It is generally, however, a mistake to meddle toomuch with nest or eggs; the hen is only made restless and dissatisfied by so doing. While the eggs are hatching out it is best not to touch the nests. Itis very THE POULTRY YARD. 905 to fuss fee out bind, sad make. bee angry, as she may tread on the when they are in the most delicate Ip the i sone chick is always a more or less termed “billed” for a long time, in which case the chick is ly one and may need a little help, which must be given with _ in order that the tender membranes of the skin shall not little help should be given at a time, every two or three F blood is perceived stop at once, as it is a proof that the quite ready to be liberated. If, on the contrary, the minut+ s which are spread all over the interior of the shell are blood- may be sure the chick is in some way stuck to the shell by its is too weakly to get ont of its prison-house. vx shells should be removed from under the hen, but do not ¢ chicks from her one by one as they hatch out, as is very often it only makes her very uneasy, and the natural warmth of her better for them at that early atage than artificial heat. Should chicks have been hatched out of the sitting, and the other re- eggs show no signs of life when examined, no sounds of the little e, then the watertest should betried. Geta basin of warm water, hot, and put those eggs about which you do not feel certain mto contain chicks they will float on the top, if they move or dance | are alive, but if they float without movement the inmates will be dead. If they (the eggs) are rotten they will sink to the bot- | the floating ones back under the hen, and if, on carefully break- ’ others, you find the fest is correct (one puncture will be sufficient to this), bury them at once. ens should never be set free from their shells in a hurry, because it ee well botag that they should have taken in all the yelk, 5 coe ne food for twenty-four hours after they see the light, e a need be felt if they do not cat during that period, if they matee, gain their feet, and their little downy plumage spreads rie | properly. Their best place is under the hen for the time en all aro are hatched, cleanse the nest completely, and well dredge the dy with sulphur powder; give her the chicks, and place chopped acer within reach. The less they are disturbed during © or three days the better. Warmth is essential, and a constantly hen is a better mother than one which the infant chicks keeps calling them to feed. P. e hen coop and let the e free egress. The best place t@ stand ps is under shel- ings. Further warmth is unnecessary if the mothers are good: . roof is of glass, so as to secure every ray of sun, so much the mmliness of coops, beds, flooring, water vessels and flood tins lute. The oftener the chicks are fed the better, but food must water must be made safe, or death from drowning and chills De cted. The moment weather permits, free range on grass for 1 ‘hours daily is desirable, but shelter should always be at hand. Poultry for Market.—All poultry should be thoroughly ed and dried before packing, preparatory for shipment to market, For . - . 206 THE FARM. packing the few] provide boxes, as they are greatly preferable to barrels, Commence your packing by placing a layer of rye straw, that has been thoroughly cleaned from dust, on the bottom of the box. Bend the head of the first fowl under it, as shown in our illustration (Fig. 1), and then lay it in the left hand corner, with the head against the end of the box, with the back up. Continue to fill this row in the same manner until completed; then begin the second row the same way, letting the head of the bird pass up between the rump of the two adjoining ones, which will make it complete and solid (see illustration, Fig. 2). In packing the last row, reverse the order, placing the head against the = end of the box, letting the - feet pass under each other. oad Lastly, fill tight with straw, PACKING POULTRY.—FiG. 1. so that the poultry cannot : move. This gives a firmness in packing that will prevent moving during transportation. Care should be taken to have the box filled full. Poultry Raising as a Business-—Mr, P. H. Jacobs, a practical poul- try man, writes as follows in the American Agriculturist: A flock of ten hens can be comfortably kept in a yard twenty feet wide by fifty deep. An acre of ground will contain forty such yards, or four hundred hens. No cocks #re necessary unless the eggs are desired for incubation. To estimate $1.50 as a clear profit for each hen, is not the maximum limit, but the profit accrues according to the management given. Poultry thrives best when running at large, but this applies only to small flocks, Hens kept by the luundred become too crowded while at large, no matter how wide the range, and sickness and loss occur. Large flocks must be (livided, and the size of the yard required for a flock is of but little importance compared with that of the management. There is much profit to be de- rived from the sale of young chicks—and, where one pays attention to the business—they |= receive the greatest care. Tach ° brood, like the adult, is kept ' PACKING POULTRY.—FIG. 2. separate from the others in a little coop, which prevents quarreling among the hens, and enables the manager to count and know all about the chicks. This is very important, as there are many farmers who hatch scores of broods and yet cannot tell what became of two-thirds of them. Hawks, crows, cats, rats, and other depreda- tors take their choice, and the owners are no wiser. Each setting hen should be in a coop by herself, and each coop should have a lath run. The critical period is the forming of the feathers, which calls for frequent feeding, and when they have passed that stage, the chicks become hardy, The houses need not be more than eight feet square for each family, and can be doubled. If possible, it is best to have changeable yards, but, if used, a less number _ e THE POULTRY YARD. 207 sc ahoagenag If the yards are kept clean by an occasional spading, , green stuff may be grown elsewhere and thrown over to them. ‘may consist of cabbage, grass, turnip tops, kale, mustard, lettuce, etc. Watering must not be neglected, or the meals given irregularly. Care must be observed not to feed too much, as over-fat fowls will lay few eggs, and such eggs will not hatch. A good poultry manager is always among his ‘fowls, and observes everything. The breeds have special characteristics al 9. The large fowls must be hatched in March, if early pullets are desired r winter laying. This applies to Brahmas, Cochins and Plymouth Rocks. @ Leghorn breed, which crossed with large hens, make good marketable is, and produce pullets that mature early. A knowledge of the charac- 1 tics of the several breeds is indispensable to suecess. Crossing pure- bred cocks with common hens is excellent, but “fancy poultry” is not profitable to any but those who understand thoroughly the mating and 7 election of the several breeds. hegmnat on a Large Seale.—People thinking of raising chickens on a large scale will do well to note the following sound advice by the Poultry Mont! hy Se aaeere are many persons of moderate means who have had perhaps some 2 experience with breeding poultry, and who get to wondering ifit will pay to breed poultry on a large scale; whether it will pay to embark in the breeding of poultry for market purposes as a business, and if it is good policy 0 fo give up a fair paying clerkship or smell business to engage in it. Such questions are very difficult to determine to the satisfaction of all persons, neg every department of human industry, and where one person may make a success of any undertaking another one may fajl, though having — d with equally as good chances of success. Poultry, to be successful pee scale, must be kept in small colonies of about fifty birds each, for ° more than that number in’a single house is apt to cause sickness or 2, ere ple at among them. Small flocks like that can be given better ° on than larger ones, and the first approach of disorder can be seen y and promptly checked, while there is less danger of great loss when in small flocks, as the trouble can usually be confined to the flock it started by proper and prompt sanitary measures. When the der is not too far away from large retail markets, and especially where der can market them himself, thus saving commission, freight, and | best to breed and keep poultry for the eggs they produce, as n to be strictly fresh are always in good oman. quite an in- im price over that received for the ordinary ‘ ” eggs. Such as the white and the brown Leghorns, and birds bred from them, re breed or cross breed or grade, as a basis, are first-class egg pro- while a game cock is also valuable to breed te good common hens, g, a8 a rule, vigorous, active pullets, which are invariably good _ Those who wish to raise poultry principally for the flesh should ‘the light Brahmas, Plymouth Rocks, dark Brahmas, or some of the ee the first two named, however, being general favorites in this and also combining with it good laying ‘qualities under favorable lances. Those who cannot or will not give the poultry regular or Ribenticn, shelter them properly, supply proper food in liberal ties and at frequent and regular intervals, and pay a strict attention * Ifthe manager finds this impossible, he should at once substitute cocks of % : acerned, for much more really depends on the person than on the business * - Wt i ‘ 208 THE FARM. to cleanliness and thoroughness in all the details of the management, need not expect even to succeed, not to even consider the question of loss or profits, for success and profit here means work, work, work.” Feeding Hoppers for Fowls.—We give herewith designs for two styles — ’ of feeding hoppers for fowls, pe ge) deeming anything that has a tendency toward economy amateur breeder of fowls. The illustration, Fig. 1, represents a very good and easily constructed hopper, that can be made to contain any quantity of corn re- quired, and none wasted. When once filled it requires no more trouble, as the grain falls into the receiver below as the fowls pick it FIG. 1.—FEEDING HOPPER. away, and the covers on that which are opened by the perches, and the cover on the top, protect the grain from rain, so that the fowls always get it quite dry; and as nothing less than the weight of a fowl on the perch can lift the cover on the lower receiver, rats and mice ane excluded. : Our illustration, Fig. 2, represents “‘a perfect feeding hopper,” which, from the description here ‘ given, can be easily con- < structed by any person. A is an end view, eight inches wide, two feet six inches high, and three feet long; B, the roof pro- jecting over the perch on which the fowls stand while feeding; C, the lid of the receiving manger raised, exhibiting the grain; E, E, cords attached to the perch and lid of the manger or feeding trough; I, end bar of the perch, with a weight attached to the end to balance the lid, otherwise it would not close when the fowls leave the perch; H, pully; G, fulcrum. S } The hinges on the top show = yiq, 2.—A PERFECT FEEDING HOPPER. that it is to be raised when the hopper is tobe replenished. When a fowl desires food it hops upon the bars of the perch, the weight of which raises the lid of the feed box, exposing the grain to view, and after satisfying its hunger jumps off, and the lid closes. Of course the dimensions of either of these feeding hoppers may be increased to any size desired, - will be beneficial to the farmer as well as to the Cs : — ee ae ee ee ee co “ate . = * THE POULTRY YARD. 209 _—s Winter Egg-Production.—The following is from the Country Genile- man: To obtain a breed of fowls that are perpetual layers is the object _ that many aim at. This is an impossibility, for nature will exhaust itself _ and must have a period of rest. In order that we have a perpetual produc- tion of fresh eggs, the business must be arranged beforehand. There is a _ difference in breeds, some laying better than others at any time of the year, and others, again, giving their eggs in winter. There is little difficulty in obtaining in summer, but the winter eggs must be worked for, and the fowls managed peforehand. ‘Hens that have laid well during the summer cannot be depended on for late fall or early winter, even if well fed, but will generally commence in January, and keep it up throughout February and March, giving a good supply of eggs if not tooold. But it is better not to allow such birds to go into the winter. They are generally fat, after having finished the annual moult, and should be killed for the table. After the second annual moult hens are apt-to become egg-bound, especially if well fed and fat. The excess of fat that accumulates about the lower intestines _, and ovaries weakens these organs and renders them incapable of performing _. their offices. Hence the fowl suffers and becomes profitless. When left too long the bird becomes feverish and the flesh is unfit for food. The better way is to avoid this trouble, since there is no cure, by not allowing the birds to go into the second winter. Trouble of this kind seldom occurs with pullets or young hens. To obtain a supply of winter eggs, we must have the chicks out in March or April. Leghorns and some of the smaller breeds will do in May or the first of June, but the Brahmas and Cochins must come off early, that they may have the full season for growth. The Asiastics are generally good layers in winter, and need less artificial heat, as nature has not furnished them with any ornamental appendages which suffer by exposure to frost. For them it is not necessary to spend large sums in warm buildings. What they can dispense with in this respect they demand in feed, which must be ~ given regularly. The feed must be kept up and varied with animal and _ vegetable diet. The supply of water must never fail. We must feed and feed a long time before the eggs will come. Any breed of hens will con- sume an enormous quantity of feed before commencing to lay, but after _ haying once begun they will not require, or even take so much grain. When laying, their great craving is for vegetable and animal substances, and crushed clam or oyster shells. Fowls that are regularly trained have certain portions of the day for their _ different feeds. My birds require their shells at night, as well as their g "greens, and their grain in the morning, and always fresh water. When one has the time and convenience, and enjoys the petting of fowls, making warm 8 on very cold days is an admirable plan, and the birds relish them lously. Take beef or pork scraps, and put into an old kettle, having 1 previously chopped fine, and fill it half full of water. While stewing, , throw i in a dozen chopped onions, two,dozen cayenne peppers, and the day’s coffee and tea-grounds.\ Thicken the mixture with cornmeal, and serve it around : among the hens hot. They relish it amazingly when once taught to | Gat it, and will look for the ration daily at the certain time. On cold winter days give this feed between two and three o’clock in the afternoon, and the _ chicks gettheir crops warmed up for the coming cold at night. Ifseraps are a “Apa boil unpeeled potatoes, and serve in the same manner, adding a ittile grease or cold gravies left over from yesterday’s dinner. _ ‘The combed varieties require warmer — and sunnier exposure in 210 THE FARM. than the Asiatics, and are good winter layers after December and early J anuary. They will lay in the fall if early hatched, but the change of fall to winter, and the getting into winter quarters affects them, and they seldom commence again before the days begin to lengthen, at which time Brahmas will cease egg-production and become broody. Where one has the con- venience it is well to keep both kinds, in order to insure a supply of eggs. It is useless to expect many eggs from old fowls of any variety. Have the buildings ready early, and the fowls of the right age and in condition to insure success. The business of our domestic hen is to produce eggs, and we must feed her for it. A Chicken Coop.— matched boards together as indicated in the cut; then board up the rear end tightly, and nail nar- row strips of boards or lath CHICKEN coop.—FiG. 1. in front; put a floor of boards in the back part of the coop, large enough for the hen to brood her young upon, and lay a wide board in front to feed upon, as long as the width of the coop. The coop should be at least two feet high, and from two to three feet deep. The board in front may be turned up at night to prevent the young against rats, cats, ete., and should remain in the morning until the dew is off from the grass. The coop should be moved every two or three days toaclean place. The second engraying shows a coop of another construction, the tight apartment at the end with a slide door to let down every evening, keeps the litilg inmates secure from allenemies, A few auger holes must be made for yen- tilation. The front is a simple frame, with lath Mi) attached at sufficient dis- tances to allow the chickens to pass through. The top should be made separate, and attached to the side by leather hinges. Feeding and Laying. —The best of feed some- times failsto induce the hens to lay. This is not because CHICKEN COOP.—FIG. 2. the fowls do not get enough, : but because it is not the kind they desire. It may be feed consisting of everything that serves to satisfy the demand for egg material, and yet no eggs will be the result. There are several causes for these complaints, one of the principal being the fact that a plentiful supply of pure fresh water is not always within reach, and unless water is plentiful the fowls will not lay. Water being the principal substance in an egg, it. cannot be limited. Unless the water can be procured for the egg the fowl cannot lay. And in cold weather it must be so situated as to be either protected from freezing or else have a little warm water added to it occasionally. Now this is a trouble- some job in winter, but water will freeze on cold days, and consequently is Nail short pieces of - — he ee ee ee ee THE POULTRY YARD. p28 Se diass to the fowls when in a frozen condition. The feed, however, even _ when of the best quality, may not give satisfaction. In that case, when no _ eggs are being derived, change it entirely for three or four days. Give _ something entirely different in the morning from that previously given, even _ ifinferior, but still give whole grains at night in cold weather, for then the fowls go on the roost early in the evening, and have to remain in the coops _ until daylight, which is nearly thirteen hours, and so long a period demands the solid food in order to keep them warm during the long cold nights. : Whole corn and wheat is best for them then, but in the morning any kind of _ mixed soft food makes a good meal for a change. The changes can be made ee ws ores hay, steeped in warm water, after being chopped fine, A few onions chopped fine will also be highly relished. Parched ground _ oats or parched cracked corn is a splendid change of food for a few nai 0 _ from the ordinary routine of every day. It stimulates them if fed warm, and is a good corrective of bowel complaintsyespecially if some of the grains are parched till burned. The matter of feeding is to give variety, and if the food is of good quality also, a good supply of eggs may be expected at all Lore but with good quarters and plenty of water the prospects will be Successful Poultry Raising.—Mr. Charles Lyman, a successful raiser _ of poultry, writes as follows: In raising poultry or stock of any kind, it should be the aim of every one to keep it healthy and improve it. You can do it very easily by adopting some systematic rules. These may be summed up in brief, as follows: _1. Construct your house good and warm, so as to avoid damp floors, and - afford a flood of sunlight. Sunshine is better than medicine. _ 2. Provide a dusting and scratching place where you can bury wheat and corn and thus induce the fowls to take the needful exercise. eeepier Sour years gld, giving one cock to every twelve hens. _ 4 Give plenty of fresh air at all times, especially in summer. 5. Give plenty of fresh water daily, and never allow the fowls to go _ 6. Fee them systematically two or three times a day; scatter the food so they can’t eat too fast, or without proper exercise. Do not feed more than they will eat up clean, or they will get tired of that kind of feed. 7. Give them a variety of both dry and cooked feed; a mixture of cooked “meat and vegetables is an excellent thing for their morning meal. . 8. Give soft feed in the morning, and the whole grain at night, except a le wheat or cracked corn placed in the scratching places to give them ercise during the day. Above all things keep the hen house clean and well ventilated. ). Do not crowd too many in one house. If you do, look out for disease, a Use carbolic powder occasionally in the dusting bins to destroy lice. 1 Wash your roosts and bottom of laying nests, and whitewash once a yeek in summer, and once a month in winter. on young have as large a range as possible—the larger . Don’t breed too many kinds of fowls at the same time, unless you ing into the business, _ Three or four will give you your hands sprinkled with meal, and fed warm, which will be very acceptable... . _ $8. Provide yourself with some good, healthy chickens, none to be over ~ 212 THE FARM, 15. Introduce new blood into your stock every year or 80, by either buy- ing a cockerel or settings of eggs from some reliable breeder. 16. In buying birds or eggs, go to some reliable breeder who has his reputation at stake. You may have to pay a little more for birds, but you can depend on what you get. Culls are not cheap at any price. * 17. Save the best birds for next year’s breeding, and send the others to ‘market. In shipping fancy poultry to market send it dressed. Fish for Poultry.—In preparing fish for fowls, we prefer to chop them up raw, add a very little salt and pepper, and feed in small quantities in conjunction with grain and vegetables; but for young chicks it is advisable to boil before feeding, and simply open the fish down the line of the back bone, leaving to the chicks the rest of the task. This food shall be given to layers sparingly, or we may perceive a fishy smell about the eggs, especially if the fish is fed raw. All who can will do well to try this diet for their flocks, and note its effect on egg production. We have always marked a decided increase in the rate of laying following an allowance of fish fed in mcderate quantities. There are hundreds of our readers who live near or on rivers or lakes, or the sea shore, where they can get considerable offal fish, such as are either too small to market, or are cast out as unfit to be sold. Hundreds of bushels of these fish are annually used for manure, either composted or plowed in direct. In this connection they are very good, though many a basketful could be put to better account by feeding them to your fowls; and they are very fond of this diet, though care must be taken not to feed it exclusively, for it may cause extreme laxity. To Cure Pip.—This is a troublesome and somewhat fatal complaint to which all domestic poultry are liable; it is also a very common one. Some writers say it is the result of cold; others, that is promoted by the use of bad water. But, whatever the cause, the disease is easily detected. There is a thickening of the membrane of the tongue, particularly at the tip; also a difficulty in breathing; the beak is frequently held open, the tongue dry, the feathers of the head ruffled and the bird falls off in food; and if neglected, dies. The mode of cure which, if putin practice in time, is generally suc- cessful, is to remove the thickened membrane from the tongue with the nails of the forefinger and thumb. The process is not difficult, for the mem- brane is not adhesive. Then take a lump of butter, mix into it some strong Scotch snuff, and put two or three large pills of this down the fowl’s throat. Keep it from cold and damp, and it will soon recover. It may, perhaps, be necessary to repeat the snuff balls. Some writers recommend a mixture of butter, pepper, garlic, and scraped horseradish; but we believe the Scotch snuff to be the safest, as it is the most simple. Eggs and Pullets.—Unless you want a large proportion of cockerels do not sell all the largest eggs you can pick out. There are no means known by which the sex of eggs can with certainty be determined. Although many thought some sign indicated the sex, yet after repeated fair trials, all these indications have entirely failed with me, except the one which follows: With regard to the eggs of most.of the feathered kingdom, if you pick the largest out of the nest, they are the ones that generally produce males, especially if they happen to be the first laid. Even in a canary’s nest it is noticeable that the first egg laid is very often the largest, the young from it is the first out, keeps ahead of its comrades, is the first to quit the nest and the first to sing. Ll 0a ila tet Sell - THE POULTRY YARD. ” 218 7 How to Produce Layer:.—Mr. L. Wright says: In every lot of hens _ some will be better layers than others. Let us suppose we start with six -Houdans—a cock and five hens. Probably out of this five two may lay thirty eggs per annum more than either of the others; their eggs should be noticed and only these set. By Kegan this for a few years a very great increase in egg production attained. My attention was drawn to this subject by a friend having a ies pullet which laid nearly three hundred eggs in one twelve-month, though valueless as a fancy bird, and the quality de- scended to several of her progeny; and I have since found other instances which prove conclusively that a vast improvement might easily be effected in nearly all our breeds were that careful selection of brood stocks made for this purpose which the fancier bestows on other objects. Itis to be regretted more is not done in this way, and having more room than I had, I hope my- _ self to make some experiments in this direction shortly. I will say now that I am perfectly certain the number of two hundred eggs per annum might be attained in a few years with perfect ease were the object systematically sought; and I trust these few remarks may arouse a general attention to it among those who keep poultry for eggs only, and who can easily do all that is necessary without any knowledge whatever of fancy points, or any attempt to breed exhibition birds 4, 4 A Grain Chest for j if Fowls.—We illustrate an y G Lie ee * excellent grain chest for fowls. The trough (1), two inches high. The front of _ the chest extends down- _ ward no further than the top of the trough, thus _ leaving a free passage for = J in from the chest into GRAIN CHEST FOR FOWLS. _ the trough. The dotted line (2) shows the position of a board in the chest, _ Placed there to conduct the grain into the trough as fast as it is eaten out by _, the fowls. The platform (3) is for the fowls to stand upon while eating. It 5 * should not be wide enough to induce them to form a habit of sitting upon it. A board (4) is fastened to the front of the chest and extends over the trough to prevent filth from falling into it. The cover of the chest (5) should ex- _ tend a little over the front, that it may be handily raised, and should rest ' inclined to prevent fowls from roosting on it. An extension of the back of : phe chest (6), with two holes in it, is provided so that it may be hung on cor- wooden pins. If it is hung up in that way it will be necessary to ‘ _put some kind of a key through each of the pins, to prevent its being jarred off from them. It should be hung so that the platform will be at least two eet from the floor. It may be made any length. A square chest, for a post i the yard, can be made on the same principle. ' How to Fatten Turkeys.—Nothing pays better to be sent to market in rime condition than the turkey crop. Many farmers do not understand Their turkeys grow on a limited range, getting little or no food at home gh the summer, and if fed at all with regularity it is only for two or weeks before killing. I see these lean, hony carcasses in the local 214 THE FARM. markets every winter, and feel sorry for the owner’s loss. They have re- ceived a small price for their birds and a still poorer price for the food fed out. The average life of a turkey is only seven months, and the true econ- omy of feeding is to give the chicks all they can digest from the shell to the slaughter. If they get all they can eat on the range, thatis well. Usually this should be supplemented by regular rations whey they come from the ~— roost in the morning and two or three hours before they go to roost at night. The food may be slack in the morning, so that they will go to the range with good appetites, and fuller at night. They should be put upon a regula course of fattening food as early as the middle of October, when you propose to kill the best birds at Thanksgiving. The younger and lighter birds should be reserved for the Christmas and New Year’s markets. They continue growing quite rapidly until midwinter, and you will be paid for the longer feeding. There is nothing better for fattening than old corn, fed partly in the kernel and partly in cooked meal mashed up with boiled potatoes. Feed three times a day, giving the warm meal in the morning, and feeding in troughs with plenty of room, so that all the flock may have a chance. North- ern corn has more oilin it than Southern, and is worth more for turkey food. Use milk in fattening if you keep a dairy farm. Feed only so much as they will eat up clean. Cultivate the acquaintance of your turkeys as you feed them. No more charming sight greets your vision in the whole circle of a year than a large flock of bronze turkeys coming at call from their roosts on 2 frosty November morning. New corn is apt to make the bowels loose, and this should be guarded against. There is usually green food enough in the fields to meet their wants in the fall, and cabbage and turnips need not be added until winter setsin. Ifthe bowels get loose give them scalded mfik, which will generally correct the evil. Well-fattened and well-dressed tur- keys will bring two or three cents a pound more than smaller birds. It will not only be better for the purse, but for your manhood, to send nothing but finished products to the market. Preserving Eggs.—Several Practiced Methods.—Seyeral ways of preserving eggs are practiced. The object is to prevent evaporation from the egg. Cutting off the air from the contents of the egg preserves them longer than with any other treatment. An egg which has lain in bran even for afew days will smell and taste musty. Packed in lime eggs will be stained. Covered with a coat of spirit varnish eggs have kept so perfectly that after the lapse of two years chickens were hatched from them. A good egg will sink in a body of water; if stale, a body of air inside the shell will frequently cause it to float. When boiled, a fresh egg will adhere to the shell, which will have a rough exterior; it stale, the outside will be smooth and glassy. Looking through a paper tube directed toward the light, an egg held to the end of the tube will appear translucent if fresh; but if stale it will be dark—almost opaque. Spirit varnish for preserving eggs is made by dissolving gum shellac in enough alcohol to make a thin varnish. Coat each egg with this and pack, little end down, so that they cannot move, in bran, sawdust, or sand; the sand is best. Whatever is used for packing should be clean and dry. For preserving in lime, a pickle is made of the best stone lime, fine, clean salt »] water enough to make a strong brine, usually sixty or sixty-five gallons ' water, six or eight quarts of salt, and a bushel of lime are used. The time should be slacked with a portion ef the water, the salt and the re- Me eo THEsPOULTRY YARD. 215 mainder of the water is added. Stir at intervals, and when the pickle is cold and the sediment has settled, dip or draw the liquid off into the cask in _ “ which the eggs are tobe preserved. When only a few eggs are to be pickled a stone jar will answer. At the Birmingham Poultry Show, England, prizes were offered for the _ best dozen preserved eggs that had been kept two months. The eggs were tested by breaking one of each set competing for the prize into a clean saucer, also by boiling one of each lot. The eggs that had been preserved in lime-water, it was found on breaking them, presented cloudy whites. Eggs preserved by rubbing over with bees- wax and oil showed thin, watery whites. Eggs that stood best the test of boiling and which gained the first prize had been simply packed in common salt. These had lost little, if any, by evaporation, had good, consistent albumen, and were pleasant to the taste. _ The exhibit which took the second prize was served as follows: Melt one _ part of white wax to two paris of spermaceti, boil and mix thoroughly; or two parts clarified suet to one of wax and two of spermaceti. Take new-laid _ eggs, rub with antiseptic salt and fine rice starch. Wrap each egg in fine tissue paper, putting the broad énd downward; screw the paper tightly at the top, leaving an inch to hold it by. Dip each egg rapidly into the fat heated to 100 degrees. Withdraw and leave to cool. Pack broad end down- _ ward in dry, white sand or sawdust. The judges were inclined to believe _ that had the trial been for a longer period than two months, this latter _ method would perhaps have proven the better of the two. The eggs were excellent, and on stripping off the waxed paper the shells presented the clean, _ fresh appearance of newly laid eggs. q The following is a recipe for packing in salt: Cover the bottom of a keg, cask, jar, hogshead, or whatever you choose to pack in, with a layer of _ galt two inches deep; upon this place the eggs, small end down, and _ enough apart so that they will not touch each other or the sides of the re- ceptacle; then put on another two inch layer of salt, then another layer of _ eggs, and so on until the package is full. This is the method that we used, and ison the whole the best method for housekeepers and for those who _ have only a small number to pack for market. The salt can be used over and over again. « _ The following recipe is also given for keeping eggs: Put them in an dpen- _ work basket or colander and immerse them for a moment in boiling water; _ let them stay just long enough to form a film on the inside of the’shell; this _ excludes the air. Then place them in some convenient vessel, small end _ down, and set them in the coolest part of the cellar, where they will keep till wanted for use. __ Cheap Poultry Houses.—The following directions for building cheap _ poultry houses are clipped from W. H. Todd’s descriptive catalogue: _ _ We find the best and most successful plan to manage and make fowls pay _ is to scatter them over a large range in fields and orchards. For this pur- _ pose cheap, convenient, and comfortable houses are best. My plan is to _ build 16 feet long and 8 feet wide, 7 1-2 front (facing south); and 4 1-2 back, _ boarded upright and battened, with a shed roof, shingled. Sills are 2x4 _ inch-plank halved together. Plates, same size. Rafters, 2x2. Lay the sills ‘onsleepers, and on these lay a tight floor, which cover with dry earth 4 to 6 _ 2ches deep, removing and renewing twice a year. This keeps fowls dry, _ ‘ammand healthy. Place an entrance door near one end, on the cnt, and 216 THE FARM. at least two windows of six 8x10 lights. Partition across the middle, with a door. Fix ventilators at the highest point in each end, sheathed to exclude storm and wind. Erect roosts 20 inches high, for twenty fowls, with a mova- ble nest or two, and a box, partly filled with dust and ashes, and you are ready for ‘‘ business.” Forty large fowls can be accommodated and thrive well. Since the house is double we are in shape for running two breeding yards. Fence can be built cheaply with lath nailed upright to two 1-inch-thick pieces, the lower one 8 ur 10 inches wide, and the upper about 2, 30 inches apart; the lath may be 3 inches apart, and a short piece 16 inches long, tacked to the bottom board, and to a light strip running lengthwise the panel. It is best to make this fence in panels about 12 feet long. Set a post where they come together, and pass a wire around panels and post, fasten, and you have light, cheap, strong fences. The house can be made warmer if necessary by lining with tar-board sheathing. An Inexpensive Chicken Coop.—A correspondent writes as follows: “Having made a good discovery, I am desirous of giving it to the people. Being engaged in raising chickens for profit, it was necessary to make cheap coops to keep them in for a few weeks. I take an old barrel and tack every == hoop on each side of a seam between the staves with an inch wrought nail; after clinching the nail, I saw the hoops off on the seam. Then I spread the barrel open, as shown in the illustration, by cutting a board about twenty inches long for the back of the coop, and two small AN INEXPENSIVE CHICKEN COOP. pieces to tack laths on for the front part. I have the upper section of the. back fastened with leather hinges, so that I can open it at pleasure. Every- body has old barrels which are almost valueless, and the trouble and ex- pense of making a coop of this description is so small that it is not worth mentioning, while to buy the material and make a coop of the same size, it would cost about one dollar.” Chicken Cholera.—A New Jersey correspondent gives this remedy: Take of pulverized cupperas, sulphur, alum, cayenne pepper and rosin, of each equal parts, and mix one teaspoonful in four quarts of meal. Give three days in succession, then once a week as a preventive. I have seen it used successfully. It will not cure those which have it, but will prevent spreading of the disease. For a disinfectant, use crude carbolic acid—one tablespoonful in one gallon of water. Sprinkle the hen house often, say about twice a week. Another correspondent says: I used a strong tea made of white oak bark, which I used in the drinking water as a preventive. When a fowl was taken sick I used it pure, giving several teaspoonfuls at a time, four or five times a day. I have taken fowls so far gone that they were past eating or drinking, and cured them in a few days with this simple remedy. As a disinfectant I use crude carbolic acid, pouring it on a board in the chicken house and on the perches, coops, etc., or anywhere that the fowls frequent. If you will try this plan for awhile, removing all infected fowls from the flock, and keep the surroundings clean, I think you will soon get rid of the disease, THE POULTRY YARD. 217 The following prescription we find in the Southern Cultivator, and it is aid to be very efficacious in chicken cholera: Glycerine and water, each a half ounte; carbolic acid, ten drops. When the first symptoms of the dis- ease are apparent, give five drops, and repeat at intervals of twelve hours. Usually the second dose effectsa cure. A neighbor informed me thatcholera was very destructive among his poultry, and at my suggestion he tried the foregoing recipe. He reports that the progress of the disease was promptly arrested, and in almost every case a cure was accomplished. Infertile Eggs.—There are many reasons why eggs hatch so poorly, when from pure bred stock, one of the greatest being want of stamina in the flock from which the eggs came, caused by being kept too closely confined. _ As arule itis best to procure eggs for hatching from fowls which have free range, which is a great promoter of healthfulness, though there is no reason _ why eggs should not hatch well when from fowls in confinement, if those fowls are given good care, plenty of food, and have good sized yards to run in. Want of fertility may be due —= to running too many hens to a = cock; about ten hens of the Asia- tics (Brahmas and Cochins), and from ten to fifteen of the laying breeds (Leghorns, Hamburgs, etc.) to a cock being about the right number to secure good re- sults, other things being equal. A Cheap Chicken Foun-~ _ tain.—Take an emptied tomato _ can, bend in the ragged edges _ where it has been opened, make _ a hole in the side one quarter of an inch from the edge, fill it _ with water, put a saucer on it, CHEAP CHICKEN z and quickly invert both. The 4 re ee water will then stand in the saucer constantly at the height of the hole. _ Chickens can drink, but cannot get in the water, which remains clean. Chicken Lice.—The first signs of lice are with the early setting hens. _ From their nests soon a whole house will be overrun with the pest. Chicks _ show the presence of lice very quickly, and lice are certain death to them _ if they are not protected. Have all nests movable, and change the contents _ frequently. With sitting hen’s nests be sure to have the nest clean and the _ boxand surroundings whitewashed before she is placed. Whitewash and the _ dust box are the surest preventives oflice. Put two or three coats of white- _ wash on every interior spot in the building; the lice harbor in the crevices of the rough sidings, and on the under side of the perches. Let the fowl house have a dust box. Mix hot ashes with the dust occasionally to dry it. : Do all this early in the year, before spring laying and sitting. Kerosene and _ lard when applied is a sure cure, but they are too often dangerous in their _ @ffects. A little castor oil on the head and under the wings of sitting hens i8 very effective. Don’t keep a brood hen ima little coop without a dust iow. If you want your fowls to be free from lice you must keep their habitation clean. The best way to do that is by occasional change of the ‘Rest contents and a thorough whitewashing of the apartment, 418 THE FARM. Raising Turkeys.—The difficulty of raising turkeys is a serious draw- vack to the profits of the business, but the exercise of care will obviate the difficulty. At first, and for about six weeks, turkey chicks are very delicate, so much so that even a warm shower will finish them. If they can be kept alive for about two months they begin to assume a more robust character, and will soon become the very hardiest of poultry. The chicks, therefore, should be provided with shelter, and the shed which furnishes this would be all the better if it had a wooden floor. The best feed for the first week is hard boiled eggs, mixed with minced dandelion. It is thought the dande- lion serves to keep the bowels in order. At all events the young birds pre- fer dandelion to all other green food. At the end of the first week add gradu- ally to the boiled eggs bread crumbs and barley meal, constantly lessening the amount of egg until at the end of three weeks it may be entirely discon- tinued. Now give boiled potatoes as a part of the food, and a small portion of some small grain may be added, in fact making the food very much like that of other poultry. If fed in this way and kept dry, they will come along all right. How to Raise Ducks.—A writer who thinks unlimited water a bad thing for young ducks, recommends the following treatment for them: ‘‘ Ducks are easily hatched, and, if properly managed, they are easily raised—much more so than chickens or turkeys. Probably the worst thing for ducklings is the first thing they usually receive, and that is unlimited range and water toswimin. The litile things are, ina measure, nude, and should be kept in pens with dry soil floors or stone pavements that can be washed down daily. No kind ot poultry will succeed on bare boards. All the water they need is best furnished by burying an old potin the ground and laying a round piece of board on top of the water with room for the ducks to stick their heads in and fish out the corn that is put in the water. This amuses them and does no harm, while, if allowed to go off to ponds or streams, they are very liable - to fall a prey to vermin in some shape, or to get their bodies wet and chilled from remaining too long in the water. Their pens must be kept clean if they are expected to thrive. Gapes in Fowls.—The parasite that causes gapes in fowls is of a red color and about three-quarters of an inch long. The remedies are numer- ous, but chiefly consist in removing the worms. One way is to moisten a feather from which all but the tip of the web has been stripped, with oil, salt water, or a weak solution of carbolic acid, introduce it into the wind- pipe, twist it around once or twice, and then withdraw it. A teaspoonful of sulphur mixed with a quart of corn meal and water, and fed to the fowls morning and evening, is also a good remedy. The Poultry World says: As soon as we discover any symptoms of gapes among our chickens, we know that there are worms—yvery small red worms —in their windpipes, and we give them camphor in their drinking vessels strong enough to make quite a taste of the camphor. Then, if any get the disease quite badly before we discover it, we force a pill of gum camphor down the throat, about the size of a small pea, and the fumes of that dose will kill the worms. No kind of worms can live in camphor; hence, camphor must be a powerful vermifuge. A Connecticut poultry raiser writes: ‘‘ Perhaps some who raise fowls will be interested in my experiment tried last season on a chicken with the gapes. { gave it about a quarter of a teaspoonful of kerosene, and as it seemed bet- Se ee ee [HR POULTRY YARD. 219 _ fer for a day or two, I repeated the dose, giving nearly one half a teaspoon- _ ful for the second time. The chicken was about the size of a robin at the _ time, but is now full-grown, weighing several pounds. I cured chickens affected with a disease we thought cholera, by giving powdered alum dis- _ solved in water.” Eggs.—How Increased.—If an increase of eggs be desired in the poul- try yard, before large sums are expended in the purchase of everlasting lay- ers, we would recommend the system of keeping no hens after the first, or at most, after the second year. Early pullets give the increase, and the only wonder is that people persist, as they do, in keeping up a stock of old hens, which lay one day and stop the next. In some parts of Europe it is the in- _ variable rule to keep the pullets only one year. Feeding will do a great _ deal—a surprising work indeed—in the production of eggs, but not when old _ hens are concerned; they may put on fat, but they cannot put down eggs. _ Their tale is told, their work i is done; nothing remains to be done with them but to give them a smell of the kitchen fire, and the sooner they get that the Late Chickens.—Laie chicks may be more profitable than early ones. _ Chickens from eggs set in August and September may be kept warm in a tight, glazed house, and fed so that they will grow continually through the _ winter, and if they come later all the better, if they are well kept and fed. The early broods will be salable at good prices, when the market is bare of chickens, and the later ones will furnish spring chickens long before the usual supply comes to hand. Spring chickens hatched in fall, or even in _ winter, are rare, but not entirely unknown to a few persons who made the discovery that with good feed, warm quarters, a warm mess at least once a day, warm drink and cleanliness, there is no difficulty at all about raising _ them, and at a good profit. Cure for Scaly Legs in Fowl.—A sure cure of scaly legs in fowl is effected thus: Insert a feather in the spout of a coal oil can so that too large a stream will not run out; get some one to hold the fowl by the wings; take hold of a toe of one foot at a time, and pour a fine stream from the hock _ joint to the end of each toe, taking care that all parts of the foot are wet with ‘it. One ee apm a year is enough, if done at all, and at the time when they need it, say during January or February. The scaly appearance is _ caused by an insect, which the oil most effectually kills, and leaves the legs clear and bright looking. This will answer even when the legs are twice _ their natural size, which is frequently the case when neglected. _ Roup.—Fowls exposed to dampness in severe weather are apt to take cold, which often culminates in roup. The writer has cured this disease by injecting kerosene into the nostrils by the means of a bulb syringe, and then sing it to gargle the throat. The latter is effected by holding the throat se enough to prevent swallowing, and, after the gargling, pouring the id out on to the ground. Repeat this once the nextday; then feed with led rice and scalded milk, keeping water away for a few days. _ Wo Get Rid of Skunks.—To rid your poultry yard of skunks, purchase 7 grains of strychnine, roll it up in a ball of lard, and then throw it at ht outside the yard, where the animals’ tracks are seen. As they are fond of lard, they will swallow it quickly, and in the morning you will 220 THE FARM find your enemy dead. But you must be careful to shut up the dogs and cats, as they are equally fond of lard. It is the easiest way to kill any ver- min, as they die very soon. Skunks will kill and eat full-grown ducks and hens, and suck their eggs, whenever they can gain entrance into the poultry- house. Road-dust for the Hennery.—Collect a few barrels of dry earth, road- dust, fine dry dirt in the cornfield or potato patch, or anywhere that is most convenient. This is a handy thing to have in the fall and winter for sprink- ling under the roosts and on the floor of the poultry-house. It absorbs am- monia, keeps down smells, and keeps things ship-shape. It will pay to at- tend to this when it can be so easily done. It costs but little, and is a real advantage. : The Langshans.—There is a prominent feature of the Langshans not possessed by the Black Cochins, which is activity. They come in as an ex- tra desirable breed, between the leghorns and the sitters, for they commence to lay early, and when about to enter upon incubation are easily broken. They are large in size, fine-boned, hardy, and grow rapidly. They are the strongest rivals for public favor that the Plymouth Rocks have, and are just as certain to go to the front as if they had been known for centuries. Their qualities as a farmer’s fowl are good, and they will entirely supersede many other breeds in time. Poultry Manure.—Collect the droppings as often as possible, and com- post them with dry dirt. If dry dirt is inconvenient on account of the earth being frozen, use good ground land plaster instead. The mixture of ground plaster and poultry droppings is better than either alone, and the ammonia is thereby saved. A good dusting of plaster over and under the roosts, and plentifully scattered all over the floor of the poultry house, conduces to the health of fowls and destroys foul odors. How Nests Should be Made.—Kggs hatch much better if the nests are made by placing a cut turf, and shovel of mold, sand or ashes in the box or basket, and on this a little short straw, than if straw only is used. In this way a convenient hollow is obtained that prevents the eggs rolling out from under the setting hen. In cool weather the eggs are thus kept of a much more equable temperature than in nests made simply of loose straw. To Fatten Geese.—To fatten geese, an experienced practitioner says: Put up two or three in a darkened room and give each bird one pound of oats daily, thrown on a pan of water. In fourteen days they will be found almost too fat. Never shut up a single bird, as geese are sociable and will pine away if left alone. Nests of Sawdust.—To prevent hens from scratching their nests make the nests of sawdust. Do not have the boxes too large—only long enough for two nests, with a partition. Place a little hay on the sawdust until the hens get accustomed to it; also sulphur, to prevent vermin. Hens Eating Eggs.—tIf hens get into the habit of eating eggs, take enough bran and corn meal of equal parts for one feeding, and enough vine- gar warmed to make the meal wet enough for the hens to eat. Mix together and feed it to the hens. men, as a rule, do not give as much attention to this mat- _ from the pen of a practical dairyman, which we consider worthy attention, and _ trust that many will profit by its suggestion: “Every reasonable person _ desires to have his or her _ food perfectly clean. Milk and _ dairy products are not always clean, to put it very mildly, and the filth that finds its way if it is desired. It requires But if these are left THE DAIRY. Apparatus for Milking.—Absolute cleanliness in milk is as much te be desired as in any other article of food. We fear that farmers and dairy- > DAIRY PAIL.—FIG. 1. careful to have the milk perfectly clean and pure. This is easy to be done only the determination to do it, and a very - little attention. The cow is not a cleanly animal, by any means, and some cows seem to delight in making themselves filthy. One of my best cows will take pains to lie down di- rectly in her droppings, so that the udder is always besmeared, and other cows are very careless about it, at the best, so thatit is neces- sary that a part of every milking apparatus should consist of a pail of water, a sponge andtowel. Before the cow is milked the udder should be washed and wiped dry. For this purpose I have used a pail arranged as shown in the engraving (Fig. 1), which is taken to the barn at every milking. Previously the stable-man has brushed and carded the cows, and has cleaned and sanded or littered the bor, So that there is no coarse filth to remove, and only the remaining on the teats, the filth will get into the pail in 229 THE FARM. | spite of all efforts. The pail has a hook on one side upon which the sponge is carried, and a box on the other, in which an old towel or pieces of cloth are kept. With these the udder and teats are washed and dried before the cow is milked. The time used—not lost—is well spent. ** The milking pail should be provided with a strainer, and I have found none made for sale free from some objection, P either as regards the difficulty of cleaning or dura- bility. I have my pails made to order with the strainer upon the half cover of the pail at the edge, and with a lip at the edge to cause the milk to flow easily. (See Fig. 2.) There is no difficulty in washing this pail, the wire gauze cannot be broken in the washing, and it is perfectly cleaned with ease. Hairs cannot be kept out of milk at oi seasons, and a fine hair carried lengthwi pass through the finest wire cloth. It is ‘ necessary to use presen eee ins } Fig. 3, which has a piece of coarse and thin, white ange the bottom a hoa This ee wise the after milk passes over all the impurities ae For shallow pans the double strainer, Fig. 4, is excell strainer fits closely into the bottom of the basin over the the basin rests in the perforated hoop which stands in the milk pan. A cloth may be tied over the top of the basin if thought proper. With all these precau- tions the most complete cleanliness is within easy reach, and if the cow is healthy and well fed, the most fastidi- ous person may drink the milk without any apprehension. While it is so easy to be clean the conscientious dairyman need haye no excuse for violating pro- priety, and excuse himself by the idea that it can’t be helped. “Every dairy utensil should be of tin. No wooden vessel should be used in milking, as the wood absorbs the milk, which sours in the pores and there curdles, and every particle of curdled milk, whether effected by rennet or by acidity, like the leayen of yeast, is an active agent for souring other milk. As curd of milk is hardened by heat and made insoluble, dairy utensils should first be washed with cold water and soap, and when thoroughly well cleaned they may then be scalded. Curd is dissolved by alkali, and the free alkali of the soap not only removes the grease of the milk, but also any particles of milk which by an accident may have been retained in a crevice or corner, DOUBLE STRAINER.—FIG. 4. THE DAIRY. 223 and there soured or curdled. To make the cleaning of dairy vessels more easy, it is well to have no sharp corners, but to have all the joinis made round, and this may be done easily if one has the milk pails made to order. Milk Cooler.—There are quite a number of devices for this purpose, and some of them are too com- plicated, which must al- y ways be a serious objection. a a ee ae ae Our engraving represents an English milk cooler, which is heartily commend- ed. In this apparatus @ yery small quantity of cold water, passing upward in a very thin stream between wo corrugated sheets of me) pid! ite | 3 rged section (Fig. 2) of a part of the refrigerator the descending s indicate the current of milk gradually cooling as it descends. The eurrent of water passing upward is warmed, so that when it passes out of the spout at F it is very nearly of the same temperature as the milk : in the receiver. This device appears to A be quite simple. How to Make Good Butter._Be | Sure the pasture is of the best, and that it 4 contains a variety of the sweetest grasses. Do not change from winter feed to spring pasture too suddenly, and, particularly, ad : do not turn out your cows too early to Pi for themselves. Let the milking be done by quiet persons, whether _ male or female, at regular times morning or evening, knowing always that _ the milking is conducted as cleanly as it is quietly. _ Know that the utensils for holding the milk are of the best description _ and always scrupulously clean. iN Ss Ni < 224 THE FARM. See that the milk is perfectly cooled to free it of animal odor. A ther- mometer is an absolute necessity in all well regulated dairies. Be sure the room for setting milk is cool, and so it may be darkened at will. Thorough ventilation is one of the golden rules in dairying. The temperature Of the dairy room should never be more than sixty degrees, nor less than forty degrees. Skim the milk as soon as the first indications of getting thick from lopper ad are shown. Turn the cream |) slowly into the jar, and stir thoroughly when more — cream is added. Keepthe — receptacle for the cream cool, from fifty to sixty de- grees, and cover with some fabric that will keep out minute insects, and at the same time allow access of air. POWER FOR CHURNING.—FIG. 1. Churn when the cream eream is sour, every day in spring, and every day insummer. Do not allow is ripe, that is, when the | _the cream in the churn to rise much above sixty degrees. Donot churntoo fast. There is nothing gained by seeking to bring the butter in a few j minutes. From twenty to thirty minutes is about right. 4 Good grass will make nice colored butter. At such seasons, when the color of butter is pale, use coloring carefully. It is better that butter be rather light than a dark yellow. When the butter comes in granules, atop churning. Wash with cold water or cold brine; work only enough to bring it to a firm uniform mass. Do notsalt heavily; frona three-quarters to one ounce of ~ salt to a pound of butter is enough. Pack in tight, clean, sweet packages; fill to within a half inch of the top, cover with a clean cloth, and add brine to fill until sold. Keep it in the coolest place you have, and there is no reason why you should not get the top prices for your butter. Power for Churning.— We present four illustrations, with brief descriptions, showing practical methods for labor saving in the usually tiresome and monotonous business of churning, from which may be gleamed some valuable hints. Fig. 1, although not a power churn, -is, nevertheless, a labor-saving arrangement. It is simply a hickory sapling about twelve or fourteen feet long, fastened firmly at the butt end, while at the other end is fixed a seat in which a child can sit and perform the work with more ease than a grown person in the ordinary way. The dash of the churn may be fastened at any POWER FOR CHURNING.—FIG. 2. THE DAIRY. 225 point to accommodate the spring of the pole. Fig. 2 is a vertical wheel with a rim about two feet in width, on the inside of which the animal treads. It is necessary to have this wheel as much as eight or ten feet in diameter. The engraving gives ample insight into its Fig. 3 is a water-power : showing the water _ wheel fitting easily into the box or flume, at the outlet of the dam, or it may be simply feet in diameter. The power tance by means of two wires fastened upon poles with _ swing trees that receive a backward and forward motion from the crank of the water- wheel. Fig. 4 represents a cheap churn power, which is both simple and practical. A is a log, squared set in the ground far endugh to be solid. B is the sweep—a four-inch scantling sixteen feet long, with a two-inch hole in one end and an axle on the other, and holes in the center for the standard, according to the length of the dash. C is the drive-wheel, eighteen inches in diameter, three inches thick. D, the churn, which stands still on a small one- legged table, with the leg running through the sweep (B) and into the stationary block. This arrangement gives the dasher (E) two motions, and causes the but- ter to “come” in shorter ttmme. F, beam guide; G, beam; H, standard; I, hitch- fA ing stick; J, whiffletree; K, , pitman. It is very easy to ff, operate. Hard Churning and Blue Cream.—lIt is a very thing for a person with one cow to complain that her cream will not common _ thurn, or that it churns with great difficulty. The reason is the cream is _ kept so long to get a churning that it becomes too sour. Putting in either Sn ¥ 226 THE FARM. bicarbonate of soda or sal soda will reduce the acid and help the butter to come, but the butter thus made is always inferior. The remedy is to churn oftener, say every other day, or if the weather is a little cool, twice a week, and to put in milk to make sufficient bulk for churning. The skimming, too, should be done early—as soon as the cream is all up, or pretty near all up. It is better to take in the top of the milk in which the last rising of the cream lingers, than wait for the milk to get stale before removing the cream, The practice which many people follow of letting the whey start on the milk before skimming or on the cream before churning, is to a high degree detri- mental both to the churningand to the quantity and quality of butter. If easy churning is desired, the cream must be churned while it has a fresh and new taste—not later than the first stage of sourness. The ** blue or moldy-looking cream ” is not peculiar to any breed, and it occurs in the milk of all cows if they and their milk are improperly cared for. The cream of any milk may take on a dark or moldy appearance if too long exposed to light and to a damp atmosphere. It is more easily induced in the milk of cows which, from any cause, have had their blood heated, or by exposure to hot sun, by too fast or too much driving or from feverishness by excessive feeding, etc. Milk inclined to have flecks in its cream is very easily made to assume a moldy condition, for the dark color is derived from an actual fungus which develops in the milk and cream. An unusually ready development of it is evidence that the cow’is in some way sick—from over feeding or other causes. There is always in milk a variable quantity of albuminous matter which turns dark-colored upon exposure to air and light, but it is heavier than cream and heavier also than the serum of milk, and is inclined to settle to the bottom. This has probably no connection with dark- colored cream; it is more likely the result of unfavorable health and damp- ness of cellar. To Keep Butter.—It is said that a compound of one part sugar, one part nitre, and two parts of the best Spanish salt, beaten together into a fine powder and mixed thoroughly with the butter in the pro- portion of one ounce to the pound, would keep the butter in every respect sweet and sound during two years. It is also said to impart a rich marrowy flavor that no other butter ever acquires, and tastes very little of the salt. Gream and Cold.—It has been discovered by a French scientist that the rising of cream is quicker, and its volume greater, the nearer the temperature is to that of freezing water; further, that the yield ot butter is greater, and the skim milk, butter and cheese are all of the better quality under like conditions. These facts should be worth the attention of dairy keepers. Waterproof Butter Wrappers.—At the Pennsylvania State Fair in 1882 waterproof butter wrappers attracted considerable attention from dairymen. Advocates of the waterproof paper claim for it that, being air- tight, it preserves the freshness and flavor of the butter, and is about one- sixth as expensive as cloth. To Restore Rancid Butter.—Rancid butter can be restored by first | washing it thoroughly in cold water, then to every one hundred pounds add two pounds pulverized sugar, two ounces powdered saltpetre, and salt to svit, F. THE DAIRY. 997 An Improved Butter-Worker.—This butter-worker consists of a table of maple (Fig. 1), or other hard sweet timber, in the form shown in the en- graving, with three feet sides and six feet on curve, without side pieces. At each edge is a deep groove to conduct the brine. At the front end is a rim, ing one-half inch above the plank. At the lower end is a deeper cross- _ groove, with outlet at one side of the projecting bed-piece, In this bed-piece the mortise by a pin, and sets one-eighth of an inch above the table at the post; is of maple, four inches wide and three inches thick; lower side square cornered plain, upper side rounded or cornered. The handle is wrought at the upper side, IMPROVED BUTTER-WORKER.—FIG. 1. leaving a shoulder below, which sets just within the rim of the table. Fig. 2 shows the frame-work of the table, into which the legs are formed. The entire cost of this butter-worker will not exceed $3. The operation, which differs from that of other workers in use, consists of pressing the but- ter with a direct vertical pressure—no grinding strokes allowable. Then strike the left side of the butter with a right upward motion of the lever a few strokes, and it lies in a roll parallel to the lever. Now turn the roll at right angles to the lever, and continue the three operations of pressing, j rolling, and turning, until it is sufficiently worked. French Butter Making. aa 1) —In the French system the butter is made from very sour ’ eream, is washed in the churn, not salted, but sold for present use in Paris and England, and § : the keeping quality is oF y, ——.,, ‘much studied. Notwithstand- os . ing the extreme sourness of the LJ cream when churned, the but- IMPROVED BUTTER-WoRKER.—Fic. 2. ter has almost the same ap- a pearance as that made from _ Sweet cream—this is the result of the washing. The finest French butter is _ &shipped at once to the consumers, and generally consumed before the end of _ three days; so its keeping qnalities are not material. No salt is used for the home market. Itis put upin large balls of 23 Ibs. to 40 Ibs., each ball being _ covered by a piece of fine flannel and placed in a willow basket. Second and thi butter is made up in one pound rolls and packed in grape leaves. _ Forthe English market, butter is put up in one pound rolls and covered ~ With jaconet and lace paper, and packed in small boxes 14x9x6 inches, twelve 228 7 THE FARM. rolls in each box. M. Lepelletier is the largest exporter of this kind of but- ter, and is said to ship 1,200 boxes per week, his trade amounting to 12,000,- 000 francs per year. Itis sent in refrigerating cars. In Paris all butter is sold by auction at ten markets. Women are mostly the buyers. Three or four hundred lots are sold every hour. Sworn officials weigh and register the butter, and make up the accounts of sale. The different kinds of butter are named from the places where they are made, and classified according to quality. The best butter is sold at 50 and 75 cents per pound. Preparing Butter for Market.—Afier the milk has been kept in the spring or cooling house about forty-eight hours, it is then taken out and skimmed, and after the butter is made it is put up in half-pound prints for market. Itis shipped in boxes, having an ice chamber in the center. The boxes are 31 by 161-2 inches and 15 inches deep. The ice chest is of tin, placed in the center of the box, and is 16 1-2 by 5 inches, 15 inches deep. At the bottom there is a hole, which extends also through the box, for the es- cape of water from the ice as it melts. Movable shelves with cleats on the edges, are fitted in each side of the ice chest, one above the other, for hold- ing the prints. The box holds 10 shelves, 5 on each side of the ice chamber, and the shelves, when in place, leave a space between each of 2 1-2 inches. We give a rough draft of the movable shelf in our illus- tration. Each shelf holds 20 prints, or 10 pounds of butter. In packing the but- ter a plain board is used to receive the prints at the bottom of the box; then the shelf, as illustrated, is placed on top, and thus con- tinued until the whole number of prints are in. A movable shelf just com- ing to the top of the box is placed over the top prints, so that when the lid of the box is brought down it presses tightly on it and thus keeps the shelves from shaking and prevents any injury to the prints. Keeping Butter for Winter Use.—Good butter put up after the follow- ing directions will keep in sound condition one year: Use for a package a tub somewhat tapering, with heavy staves and heads provided at both ends, so as to make a package that will not leak. In packing the tub is turned on the small end, and a sack of cotton cloth is made to fit the tub, and into this .the butter is packed until it reaches to within an inch of the groove for hold- ing the upper head. A cloth is next laid upon the top of the butter and the MOVABLE SHELF FOR HOLDING BUTTER PRINTS. edges of the sack brought over this and neatly pressed down; then the head is put in its place and the hoops driven home. The package is now turned upon the large end and the sack of butter drops down, leaving a space on — the sides and top. Strong brine is then poured into a hole in the smallend and until it will float the butter. The hole is tightly corked and the butter — is pretty effectually excluded from the air. Where only a small quantity of butter is to be preserved, pack it in self-sealing fruit jars. By this plana ~ little brine is put into the jar, which is then packed not quite full of granu- jated butter. Some bleached muslin is laid over the butter, then the little PHE DAIRY. 999 ilace above filled with salt, and finally enough strong brine, made from | butter salt, poured in to fill the can. When packing roll butter in jars the brine should be made strong enough to bear an egg. To three gallons of _ this brine add a quarter of a pound of white sugar and one tablespoonful of Boil the brine, and when it is cool strain carefully. Make the butter into rolls and wrap each roll separately in white muslin cloth. Pack the jar full, weight the butter down, and submerge in brine. Suggestions in Milk-Setting.—Professor L. B. Arnold says: Furst—To make the finest flavored and longest-keeping butter the cream must undergo a ripening process by exposure to the oxygen of the air while itis sweet. This is best done while itis rising. The ripening is very tardy when the temperature is low. Second—After cream becomes sour, the more ripening the more it depre- ciates. The sooner it is then skimmed and churned the better, but it should not be churned while too new. The best time for skimming and churning is just before acidity becomes apparent. Third—Cream makes better butter to rise in cold air than to rise in cold water, but it will rise sooner in cold water, and the milk will keep sweet Fourth—The deeper milk is set the less airing the cream gets while rising. Fifth—The depth of setting should vary with the temperature; the lower itis the deeper milk may be set; the higher, the shallower it should be. : a should never beset shallow in a low temperature nor deep in a high : . Setting deep in cold water economizes time, labor and space. Siath—While milk is standing for cream to rise the purity of the cream, and consequently the fine flavor and keeping of the butter, will be injured if the surface of the cream is exposed freely to air much warmer than the cream. . Seventh—When cream is colder than the surrounding air, it takes up _ moisture andimpurities from the air. When the airis colder than the cream, | it takes up moisture and whatever escapes from the cream. In the former case the cream purifies the surrounding air; in the latter, the air helps to _ purify the cream. The selection of a creamer should hinge on what is most desired—highest quality, or greatest convenience and economy in time, space and labor. First Principles in Butter Making.—Butter is finished in the dairy, but not made there. The stamp of the dairywoman puts the gold in market _ form; but the work must be commenced in the field or in the feeding stables; and this leads at once to the consideration of feeding for butter. During the _ early, sunny summer month, when nature is profuse of favors, there is little _ to be done beyond accepting her bounty. The tender grasses are full of tHe _ needed nutrition, and they afford the constant supply of moisture without _ which the secretion of milk is greatly lessened. Yet, at this season, as weil _ as ail others, a pure supply of water is absolutely necessary. It does not _ meet the requirement if cattle have a wet hole full of surface drainage in the _ pasture, ora frog pond. While it is not probable that the tadpoles and wrig- _gilers sometimes found in city milk have been drunk by thirsty cows, many _ infusions do exist insuch pools that are hardly eliminated or rendered en- _ tirely harmless by the wonderful milk secretions of the animal. The cattle _ 8should drink from spring-fed boxes; and as often as these, under the hot _ Sun, are seen to produce green growth or floating scum a pail of coarse salt tay be put in, and the current checked until the fresh-water growths are bs Sls 230 THE FARM. killed; the salt water is then drawn off, and for a long time the trough will remain pure and the water bright. Bitter Milk.—Bitter milk is a matter of frequent occurrence every fall . and winter, or soon after the cows are off from grazing. It is caused, first, a t by bitter herbs in the hay—such as May weed, rag weed, John’s wort, ete.— and also by the use of too much over-ripe food, such as straw, corn stover, or late-cut hay. It never occurs when cows are f-d on good food, and are thriving, or even holding their own, and are kept comfortably warm. It can be avoided, first, by correcting the error in feeding and exposure; and, sec- ondly, by scalding the milk when it is first drawn, by setting it in pans over a kettle of boiling water till the skin which forms on its top is well wrinkled, and then setting it away to cool for the cream to rise. This treatment will drive out the cause of the bitter flavor, and improye the butter and make it easy to churn. Borax for Salting Butter.—The Italian minister of agriculture ad- dressed a communication to the chamber of commerce of Milan relative to experiments in salting butter with borax which have been carried out at the agricultural station at Florence. From the account which appears in the Giornale di Agricollura, borax would appear to have a most marvelous effect in insuring its absolute preservation. Samples of fresh butter made at the Florence station, and purposely not carefully freed of their buttermilk, were found, on the addition of about eight per cent. of borax, to maintain their natural fine flavor, without the least change whatever, for upward of three months. To attain this satisfactory result, it is necessary that the borax should be perfectly dry, and in a very fine powder, and care must be taken - to its thorough mixture with the whole mass of the butter operated on. Among the further advantages of this plan, it is noted that borax imparts no flavor of any kind to the butter, while it is entirely harmless in its nature, and also reasonably cheap. Still later experiments have shown that a very . much smaller proportion of borax suffices to produce the desired effect, and also that simple solutions of the salt act quite as well as the dried powder. Don’t Flavor Your Butter too Much.—It is too true that unless we adopt the improvements of the day and look carefully after our interests, we shall be left in the background as to quality and profit. But why is it that western creamery butter brings a better price? We are told it is because of its uniformity of quality. The butter is made from day to day, from week to week under the same conditions, and always free from anything that would impart unpleasant flavors. Milk set in a farmer’s kitchen or in any place where it will absorb unpleasant odors from cooking vegetables, from to- bacco smoke or from clothing fully charged with the odor of the stables, cannot make butter free from unpleasant flavor. We complain of low prices received when we ourselves are to blame. The flavor of the butter is af- fected by the feed of the cows. We lay the blame at the door of the dairy woman, when he who feeds the cows is responsible. ToColor Butter.—As a rule, it is absolutely essential in the winter to color butter in order to make it marketable, or at all attractive as an article of table use at home. There may be a possible exception to this rule, in cases where cows are fed largely upon yellow corn, pumpkins, carrots, etc., but this does not lessen the importance of the rule. Of the various sub- stances used in coloring butter, we think that carrots (of the deep yellow THE DAIRY 231 variety) give the most natural color and most agreeable flavor. Annatto, eileen arp ee taorage 5 xctmacnyewetdirrange: If carrots are _ used, take two large-sized ones, clean them thoroughly, and then witha _ knife scrape off the yellow exterior, leaving the white pith; soak the yellow part in boiling milk ten or fifteen minutes. Strain boiling hot into the ®. _ this gives the cream the Se a it nicely, and adds adds the sweetness of the butter. ‘ RIE a siiet Ghasnanrgastsie: si Siikiecibn gins coi ‘a a nada te _ the Belgian Academy a simple way of distinguishing between natural and _ artificial butter, based upon the different behavior of the two substances er ee oS sule or test tube. At this temperature artificial butter produces very froth, but the mass undergoes a sort of irregular violent jerks, which tend to project some 6f the butter out of the _ The mass grows brown, but this is by reason of the caseous matter separa- ting into clots on the walls. The fatty portion of the sample sensibly retains | itsnaturalcolor. Natural butter, on the other hand, at the same tempera- _ ture, produces abundant froth, the jerks are much less pronounced, and the | mass grows brown, but ina different way. A good part of the brown color- _ ing matter remains in suspension in the butter, so that the whole mass has _ acharacteristic brown look. All natural butter behaves in the same way. . Firm Batter Without Ice.—In families where the dairy is small, a _ good plan to have the butter cool and firm without ice is by the process of ion, as practiced in India and other warm countries. A cheap plan is to get a very large-sized, porous, earthen flower-pot, with a large saucer. Half fill the saucer with water, set it in a trivet or light stand—such as is used for holding hot irons will do; upon this set your butter; over the whole _ invert the flower-pot, letting the top rim of it rest in and be covered by the water; then close the hole in the bottom of the flower-pot with a cork; then dash water over the flower-pot, and repeat the process several times a day, _ or whenever it looks dry. Ifsetin a cool place, or where the wind can blow _ On it, it will readily evaporate the water from the pot, and the butter will be as firm and cool as if from an ice-house. ‘ THE APIARY. Wintering Bees.—For the benefit of those who are interested in the subject of bee-keeping, we present herewith an illustrated article upon win- tering bees, the suggestions in which we think will be found both valuable and timely. Prepare, of any sound matched flooring, a plat- form nailed to 2x4 or 3x3 joists. When ready, set it upon blocks or stones, and A it will appear as shown in ee Fig. 1. On this you are to “put the bee hives, eight in number, and arranged as stated further on; also a north-end board, two side boards, a south-end board and a moyable cover or roof. The arrangement ———— of your hives should be as shown in Fig. 2, where a is the north-end board, made c c c 6 square, but with cleats, as in the next figure; and bb g are two hives with their en- trances facing the south; ece are three hives with d d d 6 their entrances to the east; ddd are three hives with their entrances to the west. FIG, 2.—ARRANGEMENT OF HIVES. The object of this arrange- ment is to vary as far as possible the entrances, that the bees be less con- fused when they fly out in winter. Experience shows that most of them find out their own hives by this arrangement. Fig. 3 shows the inside of the north- end piece of the boxing about the hives, the outside of which is perfectly plain, and aa are two cleats that hold the boards together, with the square wall cleat at the bottom and the longer cleat close by the first cleat, the three cleats FIG. 3.—INSIDE OF END PIECE. making an inch space, marked dark, which dark places allow the side pieces to rest in and be held to the north piece. Fig. 4 shows first the outside of tlie south-end piece, and that it has two cleats, but that the boards do not go down to the bottom of them. The construction of this south piece is further seen in the end view, at the right hand of the larger view, THE APIARY. 233 Fig. 5 is a view of the west side boxing piece. It has two cleats at the ends,aa. The one at the left i hand is a little in from the end, gether about your hives, ar- ranged as shown in Fig. 2, and you have it ready to pack the bees. The best packing is dry saw-dust, or cut straw; cut it not over an inch long. Pack all about the hives, and at least six inches thick over the top of the hives. Now make a roofing; the form, as shown by Fig. 6, which is made of tri boards, with boards nailed on the top of them. When done, the whole will appear as in Fig. 7, which shows the two hives, the south-end hav- ing three small entrances, too small for a mouse or rat to get in at, and an inch round hole just over the three entrances, which hole is covered with wire cloth; these are all the holes for venti- FIG. 6.—-DESIGN OF ROOF. lation necessary. The dotted lines show the form of an ordinary box hive, a foot square and a foot high. Of course, in making your platform and boxing, you will make them to fit “ the hive you use, which will alter lengths and breadths a little, but not the general shape of what we have de- scribed. The side view would be so similar to Fig. 7 that we do not give it. Ob- serve this in putting your . ° bees in winter quarters: If f ! November ist to 16th passes 2 S wy & s0 cold that bees fly little, q this is a good time to pack iy ; them in this boxing. If itis = & so warm that they fly a good 7 Fic. 7.—APPEARANCE WHEN COMPLETE. deal till December ist or : 16th, then that time is the _ best. Let them have a few coolish days without protection, and be shut up __ & Week or so before you change them from their summer siands to this win- 234 THE FARM. ter packing. Leave the bottom boards of your hives on, and put a little sawdust under them. A bee-house is useful if it has a large window in the floor, for all operations that require to let the bees out in a room; then they fly to the window and get in bunches at its bottom near the floor, and when i try and subsidized by the State, and is un iia aa THE MAIN BEE HOUSE, SHOWING TIERS OF HIVES. you are through with the changes to be made, they go easily into the hive. Make a tin reeling ma- chine; reel out your honey; put it in neat glass packages; make holes on the side of your old- fashioned box hives, and get boxes everywhere—that is the se- cret of non-swarming; and make winter packing sheds as we have told you. : Bee Farming in Australia. —We present herewith a very in- teresting article on the subject of bee farming, as practiced in New South Wales, Australia, where, as will be seen, the industry is carried on on a yery extensive scale. The article is carefully illustrated and the methods em- ployed plainly described, and we trust that all who take an interest in the subject of bee keeping may gain some valuable hints and suggestions from a perusal of the same. The operations in bee culture going on in Paramatta are well deserving of being ranked as bee farming. They are carried on after the most approved system of the German apiarians, which differs only in the form of hive used and a few minor details from the approved system fol- lowed in Britain and America. But to get at the history of the company whose operations we illustrate: It appears that, in December, 1881, a skilled bee master, Wilhelm Abram, arrived in Sydney from Germany, where bee culture is a recognized indus- der the care of scientific entomolo- gists, for the purpose of teaching the art of bee culture to those desirous of making it their study, and at such an institution Mr. Abram was trained. Before leaving Germany he purchased some of the prize swarms at an exhi- bition of Italian bees in Germany, and the Italian Bee Company commenced —r THE APIARY. 235 Opérations with these at Parramatta, in January, 1882. An importation of prize queens from America was made, and the operation of queen rearing s yy ae Le THE SWARMING BAG, A GREAT IMPROVEMENT. was entered on. In the meantime a number of colonies of the com- mon black or English bee had been secured and transferred to frame hiyes, and as Italian queens were reared, the black queens were removed and replaced by Italians, the progeny of which replaced the black bees, as the latter died out. Not much attention was paid to producing honey until the race of Italian bees could be firmly established, and the result was that in the spring of last year there were about eighty colonies of gold-banded Ttalians actively at work. The bee master is an adept at his profession. With a pipe in his mouth, THE QUEEN BREEDING HIVES, 36 THE FARM, | he opens hive after hive, blowing a whiff of smoke upon them, to give the bees something else to think about when they seem any way refractory, a projection from the stem of the pipe allowing this to be done conveniently. The hives used are of the German ‘bar-frame kind. They open from the back, and each hive is two stories high, so that ample space can be given to the bees when they are storing honey rapidly. The main house is about 150 feet in length, 10 feet high, 10 feet wide, and two tiers _ of hives are arranged on each side, as shown in the sketch. The swarming bag is one of the best things we have seenin bee culture. It is about six feet in length and one foot in diameter, and formed of alter- nate lengths of calico and mos- quito netting, each length having a ring of cane inside to hold out Minin the bag, as shown in the sketch. ll = When the bees are abont to CENTRIFUGAL MACHINE, SHOWING INSIDE. swarm, the bag is fastened on to the front of the hive, and the other end fastened to a stake. When the queen emerges she bounds up inte ~ the upper end of the bag, and - is quickly surrounded by her ==S5 followers. Thus the swarm GE is captured with ease, the alternate breadths of mos- quito netting and calico mak- ing the interior light and enticing for the bees to enter and cluster. They are then : shaken into a bar-frame hive. The queen breeding hives are much smaller than the others, and are arranged at distances of about twenty : feet apart alongside the \ fences. Two or three frames ‘ of brood comb are put into S each hive, with a queen cell coming to maturity. When the queen bee hatches out of THE QUEEN CAGE. the cell she makes a flight (the only flight of her life) in order to meet a drone or male bee. She is then fertilized, and becomes the mother and queen of a family, laying egge == a ~ THE APIARY. 237 at the rate of 2,000 daily when the season is good and stores abundant. The centrifugal machine is used for extracting honey without destroying the comb. The caps with which the bees seal up each cell of honey are sliced off with a very thin-bladed knife of simple form, and the frames are set in the metal basket of the inside of the machine. Then, by turning the handle, the honey is thrown out and runs down the sides of the machine, from which it is drawn by a tap, leaving the comb undamaged and ready to be returned to the hives for the bees to fill over and over again with nectar. In this way absolutely pure honey is got without any other substance whatever, and without injuring the bees or annoying them. The queen cage, as shown in illustration, is drawn to scale, as is the queen or mother bee seen inside. The Culture of Buckwheat for Bees.—Prof. Cook gives the following on this subject: Buckwheat is valuable as a honey plant, as it can be made to bloom when there would otherwise be a dearth of flowers. We have found in our experi- menial beds that the Silver Hull variety has more flowers in the panicles, and yields more to the acre. The honey is dark, but is preferred to all other kinds by some people. It blooms from four to six weeks after sowing. Tt will do fairly well on any soil, but thrives best on a rich soil. It should be sown broadcast, three pecks to the acre. It is usually sown here late in July, but for bees it had better be sown early in June. Then it will bloom about the middle of July, when bloom is usually absent, and will, I think, yield just as well; though I judge simply from observing small plots. The cultivation before sowing should be deep and thorough. When ripe it is cut and allowed to lie on the ground to dry. When dry it is bound and drawn to the barn, where it may be threshed at once, if it is desirable todo so. In fact, the cultivation, scil and harvesting of buckwheat are much the same as that given to oats. It is safe in estimating that each acre of buckwheat sown within one and one-half miles of an apiary is worth $100. Buckwheat, like other plants, is capricious. Some seasons it yields but little honey. It is not a favorite of bees; at least I have known bees to leave it for other plants. Perhaps it contained no nectar at the time. Will Bee Keeping Pay *—Of course it will. There is nothing that - either men or women can engage in that will pay anywhere as well as bee culture; and there is nothing so well adapted for the farmers’ sons and daughters as bee keeping, and if they would take hold of four or five colonies of Italian bees they never would want for a few dimes to go to a 4 strawberry festival, or perhaps they might want to go to that world-renowned % that always visits every village about the July days, and if they been good, industrious boys and girls, and will have looked after bees, ‘ Gia wil have the satisfaction of having their own money, and will not have _ to ask father for the money when he is so pushed with his crops and so short _ of money to pay his hands. But to make the keeping of bees a success, you Inust go into it understandingly, and if you have not already the bees on _ hand, you will have to purchase a few colonies, and be sure to get Italians. If they are not ina movable comb they will have to be transferred. You will then have them in a hive that you have complete control over, even to __ €xamine every comb and seeing every bee or queen in the hive. Clipping the Queen’s Wing.—The clipping of the queen’s wing hay- ___ ing become a matter of acknowledged good policy, «s we knew it would, the = 238 THE FARM, question naturally arises, What is the best method for clipping it? We have tried all plans, and find the quickest, easiest and the least risk attend- ing the following: Lift from the hive the comb on which you find the queen, slant it toward the hive with the lower end resting on the ground and the upper end against the hive, make no rapid motions to alarm the queen, but deliberately wait till she is in a position that you can grasp the end of one wing between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, then with a sharp pocket knife and an up and backward motion cut off about one-third of the wing. If deliberate in your movements, the queen will not become nervous, nor will she be aware she had been meddled with, no scent of the fingers will be left on either her wings or body, and no commo- tion created in the hive. An Unpatented Bee Hive.—Apiarians know full well the im- portance of providing the honey bee with a properly constructed and well arranged hive, in which these little workers may safely store the nectar care- fully gathered from the blossomin~ sweets of earth. Many good and valuable hives for this purpose have been ~ constructed, and are . the subject of letters patent, for the manu- ZZ4ss ox aw > _wv facture and use of 0 which a royalty is re- NO as Sy : gett | yee Sar yb the owners fp Ea Newer ee BIETOOL . Pes Rao The hive shown in Pe Se connection with this ar- PEE TR EY a RNE CRA Soh ticle is, beyond ques- BEE HIVE.—Fia. 1. . tion, the simplest, cheapest, and best ar- ranged unpatented hive extant. Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the hive as it appears upon the sand. In appearance it has a neat, unpretending look ~ ‘of self-recommendation. The advantages gained by having a passage for the bees at the bottom, aud six inches upward therefrom, at one side of the hive, are: First. Dur- — ing winter snow and ice accumulate in sufficient quantities to entirely fill and cover the lower series of holes, while the upper ones remain open, ad- — mitting fresh air, the importance of which all apiarians are familiar with. Second, Bees alighting at the upper series of holes, upon returning from a long and fatiguing flight, have but a short distance to traverse to reach the — place where the accumulated sweets are to be deposited, THE APIARY. 239 The hive proper is 12x12xi5—2,160 cubic inches, inside measurement. filled with honey it weighs eighty pounds—a sufficient quantity to feed a large colony of bees during the season not fruitful of flowers. For supporting the comb in the desired position, small round sticks are used in the same manner as in the old box hive. The cover to this has its upper surface beveled near the edges, to receive and retain in position a small or upper hive, sSeyen inches high and twelve inches square, inside dimensions. It is shown in proper place in Fig. 1, and raised in Fig. 2, disclosing the surplus honey boxes, which rah ber, 111-2x6x5 1-2 outside measurement, et from quarter-inch pine lum- ber, with glass ends or sides, _ either plain or ornamental, as the _ contents may be designed for home consumption or exhibition at the sale-room, or to compete for pre- miums at fairs. Each of said boxes connects with the lower hive by four one-inch holes, which are made in hive and boxes at the time of their construction. They afford a@ sufficient passage-way to and from said boxes. The top of the hive is delineated in Fig. 3. One : BEE HIVE.—Fia. 2, series of holes is shown, while the other is covered (in use both should be) by securing a thin strip in the proper position by screws. They remain thus until the hive is thought to be filled, or a sufficient quantity accumulated to successfully winter the bees. _ At this juncture carefully remove the screws, slightly raise the _ strip, place one of the surplus boxes at the end of the strip, and gradually, or by a dextrous movement, get it in place, as shown in Fig. 2. When both are in position, place over them the cover, and, unless you are care- less, not one bee is injured by the operation. Should the surplus boxes be provided with glass ends you may at any time during the season view the stores therein accumulated by raising the cover. At or soon after the ap- A pearance of autumnal frosts, remove BEE HIVE.—FIG. 3. the surplus boxes, cover the series of holes as above stated. At the approach A Det winter again remove them; thereby all vapor arising from the breathing of a number of insects passes into the empty space above, thus in a Measure, preventing death by the congealing of this vapor. Other merit could be noticed, but will suggest themselves. br. Advice to Young Bee Keepers.—Beginners in bee keeping should ot, when going into the business, build costly bee houses, provide high- ” 240 : THE FARM, priced, untested, patented hives, purchase a large number of colonies, or buy ‘ three-banded ” Italian queens at a time when, as yet, they can hardly tell a drone from a worker. Begin moderately and hasten slowly. The needful experience in practical bee culture is much more easily and far more efficiently acquired by careful attention to a few choice stocks, than by a hur- ried supervision of a large number, even with the aid of manuals and text- books. Plain, simple, movable frame-hives, too, will be found better suited for the requisite manipulations than fanciful and complicated contrivances devised by persons really ignorant themselves of the habits and wants of bees. And colonies placed in an open situation, with their hives readily accessible from all sides, and somewhat sheltered or shaded by trees or, vines, will be much more conveniently managed than when placed in ordinary sheds or out-door bee houses. Study first to know what is required for success, and then extend your operations when you are sure that you can, have the business “ well in hand.” How to Catch Swarms.—For the past ten or twelve years, says a cor- respondent of the American Bee Journal, I have not cut my fruit trees to . catch swarms. I get an ordinary sized basket, and nail a three-eighth-inch board on the bottom, with some suitable springs under it; then bore a hole in the center, and put an iron down through, with a loop on the top and a nut on the inside, and screw it fast; buckle a strap, six or eight inches long with ‘a snap on it, in the loop. Have a pole cut from the edge of a two-inch plank, dressed any length, from eight to ten feet, with a ferule on each end and one-quarter inch iron rod sixteen inches in length; take a small ring, and bend an eye on the end of the rod, with the ring in it; taper the other end, and make it secure in the end of the pole; then curve it so as to project it six or eight inches, in which snap the basket catcher. To use it, push it among the branches of the tree which the bees are making for, and if they do not light upon it, when they begin to cluster, put the catcher up against them, and when you get part of them on your basket, move ita little away and toward the branch that they are on, and they will all settle on the basket in five minutes. To complete the pole, get a one-half inch rod of iron, twelve inches long, tapered at each end, and secure it in the lower end of the pole; and when the bees begin to settle on the basket, stick the spear in the ground and let it stand, while you are preparing the hive, etc. Then take down the pole and unhook the basket with bees, which may be carried any distance you wish. Shake off the bees on an open sheet in front of the hive, showing them the way, and they will go in faster than a flock of sheep into a yard after the gate is open. Mice in the Apiary.—During the winter mice are sometimes trouble- some guests in the apiary, especially if the hives are surrounded by straw in which they can harbor. The best preventive is to have hives so tight that they can gain no admittance. For the sake of ventilation it is not well, how- ever, to have the entrance closed air-tight; therefore, fasten a piece of wire gauze over the entrance of the hives that may be in the cellar, or that may be buried in the ground; this will exclude mice and admit air; and over the entrance of hives that are covered with boxes, fasten a piece of tin about a quarter of an inch above the bottom board, so that the bees can just Lane 3 under the edge of it, while the mice are excluded, j FARM IMPLEMENTS. Combined Roller and Vibrating Harrow.—The thorough pulveriza- tion of the soil is, and will be, an important item in the tillage of the earth. _ The most effective. method, therefore, of attaining this re- sult, is one of interest to every individual. Our engraving on this page is intended to rep- - resent an arrangement of a combined roller and vibrating harrow, the successful work- ing of which we have had the _ opportunity of witnessing. The invention consists‘of the frame, A, roller, B, which _ may be constructed of either _ iron or wood, the axle of _ which terminates at each end in astrong crank, C, C, of from six to nine inches in diameter. These cranks are keyed upon the axle in opposite positions. _ Connected to the wrist pins of each crank are the connecting rods, D, D, which extend back- wards, and are attached to opposite corners of the har- row, E. The attachment of the connecting rods to the -eranks is made with universal joints, so as to allow of a free and easy working of all the parts, and to permit the roller : harrow separately to ac- commodate themselves to the inequalities of the ground. = manner in which the har- > tow is vibrated through the COMBINED ROLLER AND VIBRATING HARROW. edium of the crank in rota- ” ting with the roller, it is not necessary further to explain. If the machine is used as shown in the drawing, the last operation performed will be that of harrowing, but if ‘tis desired to leave the ground in a rolled condition, “all that is necessary to do is to turn over the tongue, F, of the roller, until _itrests upon the cross pieces, G, and attach the team by a chain, to what | ‘will then be the front corner of the harrow. Or should it be desired to use QR I = asain ee f hes 242 THE FARM. the roller or harrow separately, they may be readily disconnected by driving out two of the bolts in the universal joints. This invention is public prop- erty for the benefit of the world at large. Hay Elevating Apparatus.—We present herewith a sketch and de- scription of a new hay elevator, in the form of a suspended track and hay- fork traveler, which we think will not only prove a timely suggestion, but a positive boon to many farmers. This track can be suspended in any barn, high or low, without any additional timbers. The hay can be run up; and over beams, without any scattering or dragging. Another great advantage in this plan is having the rope double from the fork to the traveler, This gives the le HAY ELEVATING APPARATUS, horse great power on the fork just where it is needed, thatis, when the forkful of hay is separating from the load. It consists in part of a track made of hard wood, in the form shown. The center piece A is six inches wide and one and a half inches thick, put to- gether with dowel-pins, until as long as wanted. The slats BB are two inches wide and one inch thick. They are nailed on the lower edge of A, breaking joints as they are put on. They are put on each side of A as shown in sketch. There is a pulley OC, six inches in diameter by one and a half inches thick, putin the back end of the track. The box for this pulley is made by bolting a short piece, six inches wide and one inch thick, on each side of A. A, clevis; D goes over the track and is fastened on with the bolt — that goes through the pulley. C, a rope is put through the clevis and this end of the track is drawn up close to the rafters. The frontend is suspended — by a clevis and two ropes; it is hung a foot or so lower than the back end. Screw into A the hooks that come with the fork, about eight feet apart, and into cach puta strong link six inches long by one and a half inches im the FARM IMPLEMENTS. 233 _ opening, a8 shown at E, E, E; these are for the rope to pass through, and _ also to suspend it by. 4 The traveler consists of a pulley and pulley box, H, with sides four inches _ apart, extending up some seven or eight inches, which carry two rollers, N N, four inches in diameter and one inch thick, which roll on each side of A, and directly on B B. There is an eye, O, on the traveler, in which one end of the haul rope is tied; it then passes around a pulley on the fork, then _ through the pulley in box H, around pulley C,. through the links E E E, _ around pulley P, and around a pulley at the floor, then to horse. There is a latch, as shown at the right of the drawing, to hold the traveler _ over the load until the fork is elevated; when the pulley on the fork strikes _ the bottom of the latch and raises the catches up, then the fork moves back; _ when the fork returns, the catches slide over the pin. There is a small rope (1) fast- _ ened to the traveler by a clevis, 2; said rope passes over a pulley, 3, down to weight, 4, around the pul- ley fastened to the weight, up to the eye, 5, where it is tied. . By this arrangement a long track can be used in a low barn. The weight will bring the fork back without pulling on the trip cord. In using this plan, the horse, _ after he has drawn up a forkful, is _ turned to the left; around to the _ gide of the rope, and walked back to the starting place; he is then turned around to the right, on the | same side of the rope that he came _ back on; by so doing, there is no stepping over the rope, which gen- erally twists or untwists it, and | renders it very liable to loop around a horse’s legs as the fork _ comes back. The weight must be | only just heavy enough to bring _ the fork back slowly, then the rope | will not pull on the horse when he is coming back. _ Home-Made Tools.—Fre- HOME-MADE TOOL.—Fic. 1. quently the farm and garden tools _and contrivances that are home-made are quite as effective as expensive boughten ones, and farmers that are blessed with a little ingenuity are con- _ tinually “ fixing ” up some kind of a labor-saving machine to work with. Our ! tions represent two very handy and useful implements, of which a _ farmer writes as follows: ‘‘ While using to-day a tool which just suits me for A killing weeds, it struck me that it might just suit others, even if it 1s home- made and not patented. To make it, take an old twelve or fourteen-inch round file; grind off the teeth, bend it as shown in Fig. 1, and put it in % an ordinary handle. Now, if you want to loosen the soil, or pull out sods or _ Jarge weeds, you have a light pick to doit. If you want to kill ordinery J 244 THE FARM. weeds turn the hoe flat on the ground and scrape away. Now, as the file or hoe has two sharp edges, you can use either side; as it is long it will work very rapidly; as it is narrow it will work easily, and not draw the dirt over the weeds and re-plant them, but will tumble them on top for old Sol to deal with. *¢ Another home-made tool now in season, and which has saved me much labor between rows of mangel wurtzel, carrots, etc., is made by taking a piece of old, thin, sharp tire, reversing the bend so as to bring the flat side down, bending it to fit between the rows and with the two ends brought to- gether so as to bolt to an old plow beam, as shown in Fig. 2. Make one, hitch old Tom before it, and go to work, and if it don’t work to a T, tell.” Care of Farm Implements.— Any implement that with good usage and protection will last eight years, will become weak and defective and generally useless, if exposed during four years to dews, rain and sun. It cannot be otherwise. Dew is very destructive to all wood, and sun cracks admit rain and moisture to the interior fibres, to work injury there. To leave implements thus exposed is a direct loss of fifty per — cent.,a heavy tax. But to state it mildly: An implement which, left unprotected would last five years, will undoubtedly last six years if — always kept dry and in the shade ~ when not in actual use. This will save one-fifth of its efficiency, or twenty per cent. A few boards or a — straw cover, and attention to having — implements always put under, is far more profitable than to “work out” — the twenty per cent. to buy new ones. Woodwork that must be left exposed, will be greatly benefitted by a fre- quent application of paint, or simply a coat of painting oil and by filling up all sun cracks, as soon a8 formed with such oil. The use of crude petroleum — tends to the preservation of wood, and may be applied to all unpainted wood- work of implements. HOME-MADE TOOL.—FIG, 2. Improved Tread Power.—In the tread-mill power we have here illus- — trated, the endless traveler consists of cast-iron chain links joined together and carrying lags which are connected to the links by a tenon on each end — fitting in a corresponding mortise in the link. Carrying rollers are fitted to run in boxes attached to the frame, so that the chain links run along on them from one to another, and in order that the rollers may be of larger than or-— dinary size and placed farther apart, the chain links have abutting shoulders — above the pivotjoints, which hold the lags up level for the horse to walk on. ach lag has a rib or cleat nailed on the upper surface just back of the front PARM IMPLEMENTS. 945 _ edge. The rollers that sustain the weight of the horse may be larger, stronger, and easier running than where the rollers are attached to the chains. For a brake to regulate the speed of the machine, a couple of centri- fugal levers are pivoted to a couple of _ the arms of the fiywheel, and having a brakeshoe on the short arm to act on a friction rim attached to the frame, the long arms of the levers being connected to the rocker bar by rods, and to the rocker one of the levers is connected by a coiled spring and adjusting screw, which tend to keep the brakes off the rim when the speed is not too high; but _ when excess of speed throws out the centrifugal levers the shoes will be pressed on the rim till the speed slows to the proper limit. The machine is _ provided with a simple stop device and is improved in other details. A Good Corn-Marker.—The worst difficulty with ordinary three or four tooth corn-markers results from the inflexibility of the long bar to which the teeth or marker are attached. In passing over uneven ground some of the teeth will not touch the earth, and conse- quently the planter must guess the position in which the seed should be planted. The marker we herewith il- lustrate is constructed to sur- — mount this difficulty—two A GOOD CORN-MARKER. joints being made in the bar which allow each tooth to _ make its proper furrow on a very uneven surface. The joints are made by i Sawing the bar apart at the places indicated in the engraving, then connect- } ing the sections by bolting on two stout iron straps, the bolts passing entirely through the bar of wood. Four straps of —— tire iron, each six ‘imches long, and four six inch bolts will make the two joints. A ‘space of one inch left between the ‘Bections of the bar will give sufii- cient flexibility to it for the pur- _ Take two pieces of board 2x6 or _ 8, and reund the end of each with anax. Nail boards 6 feet long on he bottom. They should be - 1 1-2 or 2 inches thick, beveled and lapped, as shown in our engraving. _ Bore 2 holes (in place where indicated) with a half-inch bit; take 8 feet same i rope, and tie loop in middle; put ends through holes and tie knot in 246 THE FARM. each to keep it there. Hitch your team to it, jump on yourself, and drive ahead. Once going over will be sufficient. Your land will be finer than you could harrow it in a week. It is better than a roller, for it levels the land, does not pack it, and draws easier than either harrow or roller, and can be = made by a boy ten years Par old in half an hour’s time. “i : Spile or Post Driver. LN —Every farmer has often 7 seen the time, we believe, when he could have saved himself or his men a great deal of hard labor, if he could only have had the use of a spile or post driver to sink a few spiles here on this marshy land, to build a dam, or to drive down a few posts there to erect a small building upon or to drive down a line of © fence posts; but, not being the possessor of one him- self, and not knowing where he could borrow one con- veniently from a neighbor, the work has been done without it, and much un- necessary labor wasted thereupon. We consider a post driver one of the most usefulimplements, for gen- eral use, to be found upon afarm. We present an il- lustration of a good and substantial post driver, with simple directions how it can be made, and would offer the suggestion that the dull months of the winter season will afford a good opportunity for those : : who wish to provide them- SPILE OR POST DRIVER. selves with one of these useful implements, te do — so, and thus have it in readiness for use when next season’s work begins. ; The machine we have illustrated is of quite simple construction, and with the exception of a little iron work, the pulleys and rope, may be made by any farmer who is handy with tools. The pair of runners (1) are 9 feet long, made of oak 7 inches wide and 4 inches thick. The cross pieces (2) are of 4 by 4-inch scantling. The distance from the rear cross piece to the next one is 10 inches, and from that to the front one is 2 1-2 feet. The rear one is left — open in the middle, as represented, for the post. Two pieces of 2 by 4-inch oe a ticy FARM IMPLEMENTS. 247 scantling are bolted across the top of the cross pieces near the middle, as seen in the cut. The two upright pieces (4) are 20 feet long, of 2 by 6-inch scantling stiffened by a 2 by 4-inch piece spiked on the outside edgewise. They would be better made of 4 by 6-inch stuff, or even 6-inch square, a3 _ they are required to be stiff. The braces (5) are 2 by 4 inches, the front ones a foot the longest. The weight, or block (6), may be round or square, _ 20 inches in diameter, and 2 or 21-2 feet long, of solid, heavy oak, and grooved on the sides next to the uprights. In the top of this is a strong staple, to which the shears, which are fastened in the sliding block above, catch. The grooves in the weight are 6 inches wide, to take in the whole width of the uprights (four pins on each side would answer the purpose of the grooves). Two 2-inch auger holes are bored through the rear portion of each runner, in order to drive in stakes or a crowbar to keep the machine from being drawn forward while driving the post. The working will be readily understood. A chain is fastened to the front cross-piece at the points where the top pieces are joined, to which the whiffletrees are hooked. It is then drawn forward by the team (a span of horses or mules) until the weight is over the mark for the post. The post being placed, the whiffletrees are then unhooked from the chain and hooked to the rope which pulls up the weight. One to three blows will drive the post in to the required depth. It is then drawn forward to the next post. Two men and a span of mules will drive three-fourths of a mile of posts in a day, and one man will mark for the posts and face them ready for the boards in the same time. The posts are slightly pointed, and thus driven, set very firm. The cost of such an implement is about $25, and it will pay for itself in a few days. A Convenient Tool.— 4 = , many steps each year other- " ~ = : wise taken after mislaid im- MO Se Ss ee ALIS ' & Home-Made Corn- i Ve CIER TY SS Sheller.—This is simply the z : use of a bar of iron laid 3 ‘ : across a box. The box is made of a convenient height to sit upon, say twelve or fourteen inches, and is eight- _ een by thirty inches square. This size will hold over two bushels. The bar of iron (or, better, of steel) should be 3-4 by 1-4 of an inch in size, and a little longer than the box. Puta staple sufficiently large to admit the bar into the middle of the upper edge of one end of the box, and cut a notch the size of the bar in the other end. Put in the bar, put a piece of board across the notched end for a seat and go ahead with your shelling. Both hands are used in the operation, the left clasped tightly around the bar between the legs of the operator, while the ear is drawn up- ward by the right hand, the fingers of the left holding it firmly against the bar, and slightly pushing it upward. Shell two thirds of the small end first, then turn and shell the butt. Two bushels of our small corn can be easily shelled in an hour, after getting a little accustomed to the manipulation. I = have tried many other ways, but none have proved at once so easy and so rapid as this. We present a sketch of the box and bar. A Good Weeding Im- plement._—We give a - sketch of an excellent weeding implement which is valued very highly by those who have used it. It saves at least the wages of three men. By actual experiment one man will do more weeding with it in the same time, and do it better, than four men with hoes. The implement costs about three dollars—not more, cer- tainly—and will save fifty dollars worth of labor during one season. The frame is eighteen inches long and twelve inches wide. It is light, made of two or two and a half inch material. The wheel is ten inches in diameter, of inch and a half or two inch plank, with a tire of sheet iron. The knife in the rear is a bar of steel two inches wide and a quarter of an inch thick, bent — ys aay A gO SO 250 THE FARM. so as to lift the frame about five inches from the ground as it sits upon the surface. Each edge is sharp in order that it may cut both ways—the opera- tor pushing it before him by means of the handles, cutting off the weeds, then drawing it back the same distance and lifting the knife at the same time, in order to insure a displacement of the weeds. The knife may be made of a width to suit any space between rows of vegetables. The form of the knife is such as thatit may be run as close to the rows as is desired, without endan- gering the roots of plants— for it cannot cut under. Weeders of this character are sometimes made with the knife before the wheel. Any- body can make the wood- work of this weeder who has the tools. Ordinary plow handles that can be pur- chased for twenty-five cents will answer. The knife, the - braces to the handles, and the tire of the wheel, is all the iron aboutit. We have devoted this much space to its description and commen- dation because there are many farmers who are turn- ing their attention to root culture and to the culture of small fruits, and there are many others who would de- vote more acres to these crops were labor ayailable. Those who grow carrots, onions, turnips, parsnips, the sugar beet, or even straw- berries, will find, for money invested in one of these im- plements, a sure return. There is no patent on it that we know of, and any man with gumption can make one. Thomas’ No-Patent Scraper. —Our illustration represents a practical and very useful implement for use on public or private roads, and as there is no patent upon it, it can be easily made by any one as follows: Take a hard wood plank, say three by fourteen inches, seven feet long. Bevel the back side, rivet on an old mill saw for the edge. Put in a mortise wide enough to receive the tenon of the pole on an angle—a common ash wagon pole with a tenon say two by four inches, and five feet of medium size cable chain fastened on each side of the pole two and a half feet from A GOOD WEEDING IMPLEMENT. ——— ee ee FARM IMPLEMENTS. 251 the tenon. Fasten to the plank, on a line below the mortise, one grub hook two and a half feet from the mortise, on each side of said mortise, to hitch to the chains on the pole. Unhook the chains, and your scraper is in two pieces, handy to pack away under cover. Estimated cost: Pole, 25c.; plank, 25c.; old saw, $1.00; making woodwork, 50c.; chains and iron work, $1.50. Total, $3.50. Set your scraper at the right angle’to carry the gravel or earth toward the center of the road, and drive on at a good brisk walk, the driver to ride or place on weights when necessary. Ifthe road is very rutty or uneven, it is better to change the angle and drive back on sanie side, - asthe scraper would cross its own angle going back, and still carry the earth toward the center of the rofd. A Clod Crusher._We illustrate a very cheap, sim- ple, but efficient implement —first made and used, we believe, in England—for breaking lumps of earth on : plowed fields and leaving THOMAS NO-PATENT SCRAPER. the surface smooth and finely pulverized. It is a very good substitute for the roller to smooth the surface of the field and cover grass seed sown after spring rains. It is made in this wise: Lay two oak scantlings, 3x3 inches square and three and one half feet long, parallel on the shop floor, three feet apart. Then spike a strip 2x2 and five feet long across two ends of the seant- ling; then four two-inch planks cight inches wide and five feet long, spiking them on like clap-boarding, and finish with a plank fourteen inches wide for the front. Turn your crusher over, affix a stool for the driver and the chains to the cross- pieces for the team to draw by, and the implement is completed. Improvement of Roads.—A Good Scraper._We would like to call the attention of all lovers of good roads, and especially of those who are overseers, to the importance of some system in constructing and repairing public highways. __ Inthe first place, all roads should be made and kept rounding. The ditches at the side should be deep, and of such a grade that the water may quickly run off. A road constructed in this manner may be kept rounding for a number of years by the frequent use of the large A scraper, drawn by four horses abreast. Perhaps this important road implement in some dis- CLOD CRUSHER. D2 THE FARK tricts is an unheard-of contrivance. Judging from the looks of many reads, we think it must be so, and for the benefit of overseers in such districts, we give a drawing on this page of the best large scraper we have ever seen. The scraper here represented is constructed of oak plank 11 feet long, 14 inches wide, and 2 4-2 inches thick, set up edgeways, in shape of the letter rear cross-piece is near the end, and also near the top edge of from the other 1 1-2 feet, and 2 inches lower, for the purpose of allowing the guide-pole to pass over the rear one, and the end under the other, giving the other end the right length to take hold of. The front cross- piece is also near the end, and is the center of the plank. . The rear end should be one foot throat; the front any desired width. To the inside of the plank, at the lower edge, are bolted plates of cast iron 5 inches wide and 1 1-2 inches thick, the holes throngh the same being slots longest up and down, that the iron may be low- ered as it wearsaway. Thecut of the scraper may be altered by moving the draw-clevis in the chain to one side of the center, causing one side to do the whole work, as is many times necessary. The great advantage of this scraper over others is that it continually draws the dirt toward the center, and leaves the road perfectly smooth and rounding. A Snow Plow.—The snow plow here illustrated is built so as to be fixed upon the forward part of a double sled. The frame is made of 4x4 oak scantling, and is similar in form to a double mold-board plow. One runner is fixed to the forward part, at such a distance below the edge of the plow as to raise it to clear obstacles such as stones or frozen mud which may be in its way. Four inches would probably in general be a safe distance. The hinder part of the plow rests upon the sled as shown in the engraving, and is bolted to it. A long tongue is fixed into the place of the ordinary one, and is fastened to the front of the plow by an iron strap, which is bolted to the frame. The hinder portion of the plow may be covered over with boards, and a seat fixed firmly upon it. When it is used, it is best to load it as much as possible, The sides of the A GOOD ROAD SCRAPER. SNOW PLOW A, with the top cut off. The- the plank. The next is distant - _ FARM IMPLEMENTS. plow are made of half-inch oak or basswood strips, steamed and bent into shape. The outer surface of these strips should be dressed smoothly, which will make the draft easier. Bag Holders.—Farmers who raise crops of cereals for market are well aware of the -trouble and labor involved in the one operation of bag filling. this important operation, at the same time render it less laborious, the bag holders shown in our illus- tration were invented. A proper size of the one de- lineated in Fig. 1 is platform "K, 24x14x2 inches, either pine or oak; standard B, 4x3x36 inches; hopper P, 16x16 inches at the top, beveled to admit of the hooking thereon of the bag D,as shown. It is obvious that, by having the upper BAG HOLDERS. portion of the hopper of larger dimensions than the top or mouth of the bag, the operation of filling can be performed much quicker, and with less liability tospill the grain; the bag holder also dispenses with one hand. : Fig. 2 illustrates a simple arrangement for the purpose. The hopper is of the size of that in Fig.1. Itis supported by three short straps or chains, RBR, attached to as many ofits several sides, which in turn are attached at the point M. This bag holder is cheap, simple, portable, and durable. Itcan be at- tached tothe granary wall, or any portion of the barn above the floor. By pro- viding the main chain M with a hook, it can be raised or lowered to ac- commodate bags of various lengths. Hand Plow.—Most vegetables are greatly benefitted by having the ground stirred frequently around them. Hoeing is a tedious operation both for time and patience. We give a drawing of a small shovel plow with a wheel set in the tram, which can be pushed like a wheelbarrow. When loosening the soil is the object, it is a very expeditions machine. The tram is made by screwing to- 254 THE FARM, gether pieces of hard wood boards. The wheel should have a ‘broad tread” to prevent cutting in. A large cultivator tooth does tolerably well fora shovel. It works well for boy-power, by tying a drag rope to the end of the tram, With this a garden can be gone over in less than a fourth of the time required to hoe it, the same time may be given on different days with so much greater result, as the plowing is nearly as good as hoeing each time. - _ Keep the Farm Tools Sharp.—Too often these things are not thought of until the articles are wanted, when much valuable time is lost in putting in order what might as well have been done during the dull winter days. It has been computed that the same man can do as much in two days with a sharp scythe as in three days with one comparatively dull, and the same expenditure in force. And it is just the same in regard to all other tools or implements, whether operated by hand, steam, or horse power. The en- gineer continually oils the machinery, and a goodsaw or file is oil to hand implements. We know one who has a great deal of hand hoeing to do by hired labor, and he believes the continued use of the file on the hoes makes a difference of nearly one-half in the labor. His calculation is that every ten-cent file he buys saves him ten dollars in his laborers’ bills. Look after the spades, scythes, hoes, chisels, saws, etc. A good grindstone and a set of files are among the best of farm investments. The best of all forehanded- . ness is that which prepares in advance a full set of good and well-repaired teols to work with. re se _ the icehouse, or it may be AROUND THE FARM. Making and Keeping Ice.—The method of making and keeping ice we here illustrate and describe will be of practical use only to those who are fortunate enough to have a spring or stream of running water upon their place; but the same result might be obtained by pumping in the water, though it would involve much more labor and trouble. The icehouse should be built firmly of rough boards, as shown in our illustration. Punt high up on the outside of the house a penstock, with which connect, by means of a hollow plug, a tin pipe about two inches in diameter, on the imside, making a hole through the siding for the purpose. This tin pipe may pass through the center of fastened to the side walls, passing partly or entirely around. If passing through the center, conical tubes similar to the muzzle of an oil can, about an inch in altitude, should be soldered on either side of the tin pipe so as to discharge jets at an angle of about 30 degrees to a perpendicular. If passing around the sides, cones should be so soldered — on that the jets shall be thrown inward. The aperture through the apex of these cones should be very fine, about the size of a small pin. At the dis- charge end of this pipe, passing through or around the icehouse, should be fastened a rubber pipe of from four to six feet in length. By raising the movable end of this rubber pipe we give whatever head we desire to the jets; in severe cold weather the greater head, and as the weather moderates less. Should it be thawing or too mild to freeze, then lower the rubber pipe so that the water will flow through the pipe without being diseharged from the cones. For this purpose the pipe should have a gradual descent toward ths discharge end. Should this not effectually prevent any water flowing on the ice, then bore a hole in the penstock below the pipe passing through the icehouse, and let the water discharge from this hole during mild weather. The jets may be within two feet of each other. Better re- sults attend a large number of fine jets than a less number discharging the same amount of water. In starting, the bottom of the icehouse should be eoveréd with sawdust. The ice will form very slowly at first, but after the bottom is covered it will congeal more rapidly. After a sufficient quantity of ice has beon formed, the sawdust may be put on, covering tuickly around 256 THE FARM. : the edges, so that as the ice melts the dust will fall down and protect it. Ice formed in this way will keep better than if sawed and packed in the usual way. We consider this mode of saving ice worth a practical test by all who have running water and sufficient fall. Whitewash for Buildings and Fences.—If people knew how easily. whitewash is made, and how valuable it is when properly applied, it would be in more general requisition. It not only prevents the decay of wood, but conduces greatly to the healthfulness of all buildings, whether of wood or stone. Out-buildings and fences when not painted, should be supplied once or twice a year with a good coat of whitewash, which SaaS should be prepared in the : , oa following way: Take a — edge of the door, which slide on the upright wires on each side. The treadle X is also oak, working on the upright pin O, as a fulcrum, and being held in place by the wire hook V working on a pivot at P, and on the lower end of which the bait is placed. One side of the trap is represented as set, the other as sprung. Trapping the Mink, Skunk, TRADE, 2. Ete.—Next to the weasel, the mink is most dreaded among poultry. In localities near salt marshes, swamps, ponds, and sluggish streams they most abound. The ravages of the mink are easily told from those of the weasel or any other animal. He almost always carries off a portion of his prey and tries to secrete it. Ifyou find a half-grown chicken or old fowl dead and dragged wholly or partly into a stone wall or under some building, you may be certain it is the work of a mink; and if you go to work right, you will be just as certain to trap him. One peculiarity of the animal makes his capture easy—he always returns to a spot where he has hidden his quarry, or where he has mado a raid; and TRAP—Fia. 1. AROUND THE FPARM. 261 © if he misses it, will go searching around for it. A knowledge of this fact led to the invention some years since of the trap we now illustrate. It is un- patented and our readers our free to make and use it. _ The trap should be three feet long, one foot wide, and one foot high, out- side measurement, and may be made of ordinary faced pine boards. Nis the only solid part of the lop, to which is hinged the lids L and D, and also in which the standard Sis mortised. The lid Lis held up by the rod A, in which are one or more notches to elevate it the desired height, catching or hooking over the pin B, and projecting a few inches beyond. Under A, and hinged into the standard by the pin P, is the lever T, also pro- jecting an inch or more beyond. C is a treadle board, hinged at ¥ to the bottom of the trap, and = a Se i) ee ee er AROUND THE FARM. 463 several years back, and were only prevented from doing so by a positive command to the contrary. By a little patient waiting we are gratified with seeing “the places which once knew them, know them no more forever.” This is one plan of treatment. Martin Boxes.—The box-house does very well if made of anysmall box about fifteen inches square (which can be had of any grocer), with a division put in it so that two families can inhabit it. A square hole should be sawed . out at the bottom edge opposite each division, and the bottom nailed on. Place the box on a pole from twelve to fifteen feet high, or on the gable end of a roof, or even in a tree, and your house is finished. It can be painted or not, or even made in fancy designs, which are quite atiractive to the eye. The illustration given on this page will convey the idea. A hop, or other rapid-growing climber, if planted at the bottom of the pole, will climb up it and cause it too look quite orna- mental and picturesque. We have seen them built twostories high, made like a diminutive gothic cottage, which is quite pretty. The house should be made before the martins come, as they are generally in a hurry to locate and go to “housekeeping.” By all means give them some kind of a home. Cisterns.—Many who have cisterns and depend upon them for their sup- ply of water for family use, hardly realize the importance of keeping them sweet and clean. Rain water as it comes down from the clouds is prob- ably as pure as any water can be, but after it has washed over a roof and down the conductors into the cistern, carrying with it dust, leaves, and other rubbish that may have gathered on the roof or in the gutters, it is not strange SS that the cistern should need to be MARTIN BOX. cleaned ont every year or two. If the cistern is not much used the water is quite likely to become bad. It may look all right, and not taste very bad either, and yet not be healthful. Of course all cistern water should be filtered, and a soft brick filter is perhaps the best; but even then it will be- come necessary to clean the cistern as often as every two years, and better every year. To Purify Cisterns.—Throw in two ounces powdered alum and two ounces borax to a twenty barrel cistern of rain water that is blackened or oily, and in a few hours the sediment will settle, and the water will be clari- fied and fit for washing i Path NULL 264 THE FARM. Silos and Ensilage.—The new system of preserving and feeding ensi lage, says an intelligent writer, is one of such simplicity that doubting minds are incredulous as to possible results. If the building of a silo and the sub- sequent process of filling with ensilage were some wonderful secret, or per- haps a new discovery protected by a series of patents—if the use of the sys- tem were permitted only under the payment of heavy royalties—there is a. class of skeptical minds who fatten on uncertain qualities, and who have but ’ little faith in any practice which is within the reach of persons of ordinary intelligence and common sense. It is difficult for many minds+to realize the facts claimed for ensilage or to explain to themselves why such results should be secured by processes so simple and by apportions so economical. Yet proof, absolute demonstration, is within the reach of every inquiring mind, or of every enterprising farmer who is willing to spend fifty dollars for commencing experiments upon his own farm. It is a most singular fact that the doubting minds are those who have had no practical experience on the subject, but whose conservatism is on the parade. Itis equally surprising that no intelligent, practical attempt at silo building or ensilage feeding has resulted in failure, although men of all classes and attainments have experimented with the new system. It would be reasonable to expect many failures among so many beginners of varying capacities, were there anything intricate or uncertain in the process and its auxiliaries. No authority in this country is competent to pronounce posi- tively upon the future success or failure of this new system; it is for the in- terest of no one to urge or induce the adoption of the system by any unwill- ing farmer, and no one is to be enriched by the multiplication of silos, except, perhaps, the individual owners. Many a conservative farmer will await the report of his more enterprising neighbor, who has built a silo, yet itis certain that before many years every one will have an opportunity to judge the merits and drawbacks of the system of ensilage. New Way with a Silo.—A Massachusetis farmer records his experi- ence as follows: We had always raised more or less Indian corn, using the stalks for wintering our limited number of cattle. After increasing our herd we planted fodder corn to help out our stock of corn stalks. However, the hard labor attending the cutting, binding, shocking, and curing the fodder made us willing investigators of the new and highly recommended system of ensilage feeding. From all who had constructed silos and tested ensilage we heard uniformly favorable reports. We could not learn of a failure, hence we determined to test ensilage for ourselves, only hesitating on ac- count of the probable labor and expense attending the erection and weight- ing of a stone silo. Learning that wooden silos found favor with some farmers who pro- nounced them equally as good, so long as they lasted, as the more costly stone affairs, we determined upon constructing our silo of wood. Our barn is a two-story building, measuring 40x80 feet. It contains several large bays, the dimensions of which are 20x24 feet. We sealed up one of these bays with 1 1-4 inch matched spruce boards covered with tarred paper. We cemented the bottom of the silo, also the walls under the sills of the barn. We coated the inside of the silo with coal oil to prevent the effects of mois- ture upon the boards. We stored about 125 tons of corn fodder in the silo, treading it down by men, instead of horses, by reason of the small size of the silo. We were about three weeks storing the whole of our fodder on account of the lack of CC ———— = ; AROUND THE FPARM. 265 help. For covering the silo we used hemlock boards and tarred paper, no other weighting being applied until some three or four weeks later, when we stored a quantity of dry corn stalks upon the top of the silo. Upon opening the silo we found the fodder in a perfect state of pre- servation, the ensilage showing no mold, except a little on top, just under the cover. In preparing the fodder, we employed a two-horse power to run our cutter, the la being provided with a carrier for delivering the fodder in the silo. Rustic Seats for the Lawn.—The garden and lawn are incompletely furnished if they are not sup- plied with some kind of seats whereon one may recline at ease. Fortunately these seats need not be costly; it would, indeed, show bad taste to have them so. Something easy, graceful, fan- tastic, rustic— destroyed by the hand—at least on and shaped into any desired form RUSTIC SEAT.—FIG. 1. something that the sunshine or the wind will not harm, or have its beauty rain. The materials for such seais are nearly always at every farmer’s prem- ises. All that is required is a little skill and patience to construct them. The branches of the trees may be bent tasteful chairs, and given tothem. The branches of the red cedar tree and wild grape vine furnish the best of material RUSTIO SEAT.—FIG. 2. for this style of rustic seat. Our illus- tration, Fig. 1, shows a very pretty chair made in this manner. A few pine boards cut out and nailed together, as represented in the engraving, Fig. 2, will form a cheap and convenient rustic seat, which will be admired for its very simplicity and quaintness. A favorite shade tree on the lawn may be surrounded with seats so at- tached that one in sitting may lean against the trunk Our illustration, Fig. 3, will give a good idea of how seats of this kind may be constructed. Of materials there are plenty around almost every homestead— tasteful labor only is wanting to make appropriate rustic seats. The Position of such seats is worthy of consideration. As they are mainly intended for use in warm weather, they should be amply shaded. A 266 THE FARM. position should be chosen that commands a good prospect—if not a distant landscape, then of the beauties of the lawn and the flower garden. Some, at least, should be screened from observation by shrubbery—fragrant if pos- sible—where one may read or work. It is during the warmer months that the garden and lawn offer their greatest attractions, and everything that tends to make them more enjoyable should be provided. How to Preserve Cider.—A pure, sweet cider is only obtainable from clean, sound fruit, and the fruit should, therefore, be carefully examined and wiped before grinding. In the press use hair cloth or gunny in place of straw. As the cider runs from the press let it pass through a hair sieve into a large open vessel, that will hold as much juice as can be expressed in one day. In one day, or sometimes less, the pomace will rise to the top, and ina short time grow very thick. When little white bubbles break through it draw off the liquid through a very small spigot placed about three inches from the bottom, so that the lees may be left behind. The cider must be drawn off into very clean, sweet casks, preferably fresh liquor casks, and closely watched. The moment the white bubbles before mentioned are perceived rising at the bunghole, rack it again. Itis usually necessary to repeat this three times, Then fill up the cask with cider in every respect like that originally contained in it, add a tumbler of warm sweet oil and bung up tight. For very fine cider it is customary to add at this stage of this process about half a pound of glucose (starch sugar), or a smaller portion of white sugar. The cask should then be allowed to remain in a cool place until the cider has acquired the desired flavor. In the meantime, clean barrels for its reception should be prepared, as follows: Some clean strips of rags are dipped in melted sulphur, lighted and burned in the bunghole and the bung laid loosely on the end of the rag so as to retain the sulphur vapor within the barrel. Then tie up halfa pound . of mustard seed in a coarse muslin bag and put it in the barrel, fill the bar- rel with cider, and add about a quarter of a pound of isinglass or fine gela- tine dissolved in hot water. This is the old fashioned way, and will keep cider in the same condition as when it went into the barrel, if kept in a cool place, for a year. Professional cider makers are now using calcium sulphite (sulphite of lime) instead of mustard and sulphur vapor. It is much more convenient and effectual. To use it, it is simply requisite to add one-eighth to one- quarter of an ounce of the sulphite to each gallon of cider in the cask, first mixing the powder in about a quart of the cider, and giving the latter a thorough shaking or rolling. After standing bunged several days to allow the sulphite to exert its full action it may be bottled off. The sulphite of lime (which should not be mistaken for the sulphate of lime) is a commer- cial article, costing about forty cents a pound by the barrel. It will preserve the sweetness of the cider perfectly; but unless care is taken not to add too much of it, it will impart a slight sulphurous taste to the cider. The bottles and corks used should be perfectly clean, and the corks wired down. A little cinnamon, wintergreen or sassafras, etc., is often added to sweet cider in the bottle, together with a dram or so of bi-carbonate of soda at the moment of driving the stopper. This helps to neutralize free acids, and renders the liquid effervescent when unstopped; but if used to excess, it may prejudicially affect the taste. AROUND THE FARM. 267 What Bird; Accomplish.—The swallow, swift, and hawk are the guardians of the atmosphere. They check the increase of insects that other- wise would overload it. Woodpeckers, creepers, and chickadees are the guardians of the trunks of trees. Warblers and fiycatchers protect the foli- age. Blackbirds, crows, thrushes, and larks protect the surface of the soil. Snipe and woodcock protect the soil under the surface. Each tribe has its respective duties to perform in the economy of nature, and itis an undoubted fact that if the birds were all swept off the face of the earth man could not live upon it, vegetation would wither and die; insects would become so numerous that no living being could withstand their attacks. The whole- sale destruction occasioned by grasshoppers which have devastated the West is to a great extent, perhaps, caused by the thinning out of the birds, such as grouse, prairie hens, etc., which feed upon them. The great and in- estimable service done to the farmer, gardener, and florist by the birds is only becoming known by sad experience. Spare the birds and save the fruit; the little corn and fruit taken by them is more than compensated by the quantities of noxious insects they destroy. The long-persecuted crow has been found by actual experience to do more good by the vast quantities of grubs and insects he devours than the harm he does in the grains of corn he pulls up. He is, after all, rather a friend than an enemy to the farmer. Recipe for Curing Meat.—To one gallon of water take one and one- half pounds of salt, one-half pound sugar, one-half ounce saltpetre, one- half ounce potash. In this ratio the pickle can be increased to any quantity desired. Let these be boiled together until all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and is skimmed off. Then throw it into a tub to cool, and when cold pour it over your beef or pork. The meat must be well covered with pickle, and should not be put down for at least two days after killing, dur- ing which time it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered saltpetre, which removes all the surface blood, etc., leaving the meat fresh and clean. Some omit boiling the pickle, and find it to answer well, though the opera- tion of boiling purified the pickle by throwing off the dirt always to be found in salt and sugar. If this recipe is strictly followed, it will require only a single trial to prove its superiority over the common way, or most ways of putting down meat, and will not soon be abandoned for any other. The meat is unsurpassed for sweetness, delicacy, and freshness of color. Value of Drainage.—aAs a matter of fact there is very little land in our country that would not be improved by drainage. Many light soils are springy, and the crops are injured in them by stagnant water. Heavy land can never do its best until drained. Vast areas of low-lying but rich land are practically valuciess for want of drains to carry off the redundant mois- ture which forbids the growth of any but aquatic plants. Many who admit the importance of this improvement are puzzled about the ways and means of effecting it. The Drainage Journal mentions the following plan, which is well worthy of serious consideration: “‘ Some enterprising tile manufacturers select careful farmers who own flat lands, and make them something like the following proposition: That the farmer make a careful estimate of his average crops, and the tile manufacturer proposes to furnish the tile neces- sary to drain thoroughly the lands designated in the agreement, the farmer to furnish the labor of putting in the drains at a stipulated price, to be paid out of the excess of crops grown on the land over and above the average yield before agreed upon, and the tile manufacturer agreeing to take the 268 . THE FARM. balance of the increase in four or five crops (as agreed) to cover the cost of the tile. On ievel lands, where the average crop runs low and the land by nature is rich, it is a safe proposition for the tile manufacturer, if the farmer honestly performs his part of the contract. On rich level lands that need drainage, and need it badly, it will pay twenty-five per cent. annually on the investment, and in some instances more.’ Rustic Garden House.—No accessories to the garden add more to its beauty and comfort than pleasant, comfortable seats and resting places, They may be composed of a few sticks, forming a simple seat under the shade of some tree, or may be made in the form of rustic houses. Simpli- city, however, must not be Jost sight of, and no foolish attempt should be made to eclipse the simple beauty of nature by any expensive display of art. In our travels on the Hudson we once stopped at the beautiful garden of A. J. Downing, and after admiring the fine specimen trees it contained, and surveying the finely-kept lawn, we found ourselves reclining in a pretty rus- tic house, a view of which is given in the engraving on this page, and we now present it as a model for this kind of work. A lit- tle patience and taste and a very few tools will enable one with ordinary mechanical skill to erect such a house at leisure times, almost without cost. Vinegar.—A _ corre- spondent writing from Loutre Island, Mo., in the Rural World, tells how he made 1,000 gallons of No. 1 vinegar mostly from sorgo skimmings. He says: ‘“‘Of course the first skimmings are not used. < had two 160-gallon tubs. Into these I put about 70 gallons of apple pomace (cider and all), 25 to 30 gallons of skimmings, according to thickness, then filled up with rain water. I let it remain for two or three days, then drew it off and put in a large 1,000-gallon cask, which I finished filling by the latter RUSTIC ‘GARDEN HOUSE. part of October. Next spring I drew it off in 40-gallon barrels, put them in_ a warm place where the sun shone on them part of the day, and I soon had the very best of vinegar. The above casks were in an eut-house where it was as cold as out of doors. Of course it had no time to sour that fall, as winter set in early in November; consequently freezing did not hurt it, though it should not freeze after once becoming sour. Pressed or dry po- mace is just as good, only add skimmings and water for the cider taken. Vinegar made this way is better, I think, than when made of sorgo alone. It can hardly be detected from pure cider vinegar, and is justas good. Bear in mind that only enough water should be added to reduce the strength of the skimmings to about that of cider. You need saccharine to make good vinegar. You can’t make vinegar from a few apple peelings and a barrel of rain water,” How to Make Sorgo . AROUND THE FARM. 269 Blasting Stumps.—The following is the modus operandi of blasting stumps with dynamite: Make a hole an inch in diameter near the stump, inclining at an angle of about forty-five degrees, so as to reach underneath the body of the stump. This hole may be made with a crowbar through the soil, but if there be a large deep tap-root it will be necessary to continue the hole into the body of the tap-root by means of a long auger. A cartridge containing three or four ounces of dynamite is then inserted to the bottom of the hole, and a slow match having a peculiar percussion cap on the end is inserted in the cartridge. The hole is then tampered with earth, and when all is ready the outer end of the match is lighted, and the operator retires to a safe distance. The explosion usually not only extracts the stump from the ground, but tears it into pieces small enough to handle easily. The dynamite costs about forty cents per pound, so that a three or four ounce charge, with its fuse, would cost about ten cents—making the cost of blow- ing up a stump about ten cents, besides the labor. ' How to Thatch Roofs.—Rye siraw threshed with a flail and kept straight, with the short or broken straws raked out, is the best material. AL, aT. The roof is made ready y for thatching by nailing GI ALMY Y; strips of boards, say one . by two inches, across the rafters, putting them a foot apart. The pitch should be steep, to in- sure a waterproof and durable roof. The straw should be cut to a uni- form length, and care taken to have it straight and all right. The sketch shows how the roof is prepared for the straw, and the manner the courses are laid. Tie the straw in bundles that will average six inches in thickness. The band should be close to the upper end, the one which is fastened to the cross strip. The courses should overlap, so as to make the roof the thickness of three bundles. Fish Culture for the Farm.—No farm should be without a fish pond, well stocked, any more than it should be without poultry. This may be a startling announcement to farmers who have to go one hundred feet to water, but it is none the less practical, as much as to keep stock on such a farm. Water must be produced in either instance. On most farms the drainage is favorable to ponds by throwing a dam across some sag or ravine and retaining the water that would naturally run off. The pond would serve the purpose of both stock and fish. Where this plan is not practicable, a pump worked by a wind-mill will answer as well if kept running; the sur- plus water drained into an artificial pond would supply the water. The pond should be at least eight feet deep in the center. This would give the fish an opportunity to place themselves beyond the reach of ice. A pond of fifty feet in diameter would accommodate a reasonable supply of fish for an 4d 270 THE FARM, ordinary family if the fish are properly fed. Perhaps there is no fish so well calculated for this character of farming as the carp. It feeds on vegetables, and in its habits has about the relation to an ordinary game fish that the farm yard fowl] has to the game fowl. A Suggestion for Drainage.— A Missouri farmer relates an experience which offers suggestions, which, while they may not be exactly new, may have for many, great practical value. There were upon his farm several depressions which in wet seasons held ponds of water. To drain these by ordinary means would have been very expensive, because no gravel could be got near the farm, and there was no tile factory in that vicinity. Open ditches were out of the question. The services of an expert well-borer were secured. He sank several test shafts in various parts of the farm, and found that the underlying ground was a tenacious blue clay, fourteen to sixteen feet thick, and almost perfectly impervious. Beneath this was found a strata of white sand. The well-borer and his machine were placed in a wagon, which by means of a long rope was hauled to the deepest parts. of a pond about an acre in extent. Here he bored a well down to the sand, completing the operation before sunset of the day when the work began. In thirty-six hours the water had disappeared and the pond was dry. Tomake this short perpendicular drain permanent he had it cleared of sediment, sunk the shaft about two feet into the bed of sand, and filled to the top with clean, coarse gravel from a creek bed. The gravel was heaped about a foot high above the shaft to strain the water properly that the shaft might not become choked. They are thousands of places in the West where, year after year, farmers have plowed around such wet spots, giving them up to the possession of rushes and frogs. Yet they could be drained easily by a few hours’ work. In Western Michigan a large swamp lay for years on the southern edge of a village, a noisome barrier to progress and a bone of contention in village and © township politics. To drain it a large ditch a mile or two long would have been required; but some one, fortunately, discovered that a thin sheet of clay was all thatkept the water from going down into a deep strata of gravel, boulders and sand. The wells were sunk and the swamp thoroughly drained at an almost nominal cost, leaving rich black soil, which is the most produc- tive and valuable in all that district. There may be thousands of similar swamps, where two or three days spent in sinking test shafts would show a ready means for converting sloughs or swamps into fields of wonderful fertility. $ Important Use of Coal Oii.—A Southern farmer says: ‘‘I once read an article enumerating some of the practical uses to which coal oil can be sue- cessfully put, in which the writer suggested that it would be an effective remedy against the apparently mdestructible bott or grub in horses. I had a horse which had always been sohopelessly infected with both grubs and the small intestinal worm, that he could never be kept in a better condition than that of a skeleton, and with a ravenous appetite, and the best of treat- ment with the use of all known remedies, appeared to be nothing more or less than an improved type of a successful worm manufactory. Out of pa- tience and disgusted with my patient, and not knowing how much kerosene a horse could take without injury, yet determined to ‘ kill or cure ”’—not caring much which—I commenced to drench with a gill of oil, intending to double the dose every day till a “cure” or a “ kill” wag effected, On the ae —w AROUND THE FARM. 271 first day I gave a gill, on the next a half a pint, and on the third a pint, and it was very soon apparent that that was enough both for the worms and the horse. Large quantities of both kinds passed, and the horse appeared to be on the point of passing too, but he didn’t; and soon after all the usual symp- toms of worms had disappeared, and the horse commenced to improve rap- idly in flesh and general condition, and is now in better condition than I have ever seen him, and still imprcving. ; “T also experimented with kerosene on cut nails to make them take the of wrought nails in a cart body I was building. I brought the nails to a red heat, dropped them into the oil and let them stand until cool, when they could be clinched, bent and twisted into any desirable shape almost with as much case and safety as a piece of wire, of the same size. My cart body required 100 nails, for which any blacksmith would have charged me one dollar. Two pounds of ten penny nails cost ten cents, leaving a balance of ninety cents in favor of the kerosene. This is asmall item, but the farmer can save many such during the year, and it is the little things that pay.” Draining Wet Land.—The objects of draining are: 1. To carry off surface water, by open drains. 2. To lower the water line. 8. To prevent waste of the surface-applied manure, by washing off the soluble elements before they become incorporated in the soil. ; 4. To put the soil in a condition to be benefitted by the use of lime, ashes and alkaline substances. There is no use in manuring or liming land that lies under water half the year. 5. To make the land a better absorbent of ammoniacal, nitrogenous and carbonic acid gases—so necessary for the growth of all crops. 6. To make the soil more porous, so that rains and melted snow shall descend through the soil, leaving their fertilizing elements in the earth that has acted as a filter, instead of flooding the surface and carrying all their rich freights off of the land. The infinitely wise Father has provided a vast reservoir of the richest agricultural elements which He pours upon the earth, in the rain and snow, for us to utilize. The science of agriculture is teaching the wise how to ne- cure and utilize these elements. One way to do it is, to render the soil porous and friable, ready to receive and hold the nitrogen and carbonic acid gas that is precipitated upon it in showers and snow. The nitrogen thus precipitated by rains goes down to the alkaline elements constantly being liberated in the soil and unites with the potash, soda and lime, forming the nitrates of lime and soda and potash, thus making the soil one vast labora- tory, on nature’s grand scale, for the production of a fertilizer that will never deplete but constantly enrich the lands of the intelligent agriculturist. 7. To enable the farmer to start his plow from ten days to three weeks earlier in the spring, and to keep it going when lands undrained are unfit to work. The time lost on undrained lands in the spring and fall and after heavy rains, which can be improved on well drained lands, will be sufficient in from one to three years to satisfactorily drain most farms. 8. To make the land earlier and later. Well drained land is much warmer and advances the growth of plants faster than land saturated with water. As we can start our plows from ten days to three weeks earlier on drained fields than on undrained, there is more than a corresponding differ- ence in maturing of the crops in consequence of a warmer and quicker soil. And as the plow can run later in the season when the fall rains are made to 272 THE FARM. percolate through the soil into drains, so the season is not only earlier in the spring but correspondingly prolonged in the fall, enabling one team to accomplish during the season much more work. Every farmer knows what a rush and hurry there is, when ground is undrained, to push things when soil is tempered just right for work. Well drained land is always tempered right. Steady work, which accomplishes the most, and not hurry, becomes the order of the day, while there is always time to do everything well. 9. Another object of draining is to deepen the soil. Where the water line has been six inches from the surface, that is the depth of the man’s farm for all practical purposes. Neither cereals nor root crops will go down below the water line. Treesdobadly. Apples, pears and quinces blight when the top roots go below the water line. Lowering the water line twelve inches gives the tiller of the soil a new farm more valuable than the first. The potash, soda, phosphoric acid and lime of the first six inches has sunk down into the strata below. As these substances, so necessary to the growth of plants, sink down into the earth when wet, so they rise in the form of nitrate when the ground is dry. So that underdraining gives the farmer control by clovering and root eropping, of more valuable elements and greater quantities of them, than he can afford to buy. 10. The last object of draining we will mention is, to render the farm and neighborhood more healthy. This is no unimportant consideration. We know of districts of country many miles square which twelye years ago were greatly subject to chills and fevers, but which, by only partially draining and liming, have become almost entirely free from these maladies. It is just what any thinking person would suppose. Where the land is low and the water lies cither on the surface or within an inch or two of it, the surface vegetation is decomposed by the action of the moisture as soon as the warm rays of the sun fall upon it. Malarial marsh gas is eliminated; bilious and intermittent fever, stomach and bowel afflictions, that carry off numbers of children, follow as a natural and necessary consequence. Where there is only a small pond hole, that dries up in summer, near the house, doctors are sure to be in demand. We hardly know where to stop writing on this important subject. Many other reasons for draining will readily suggest themselves, and farmers should study the various methods of draining wet land. How to Cure Hams.—This receipt is fifty years old, and it is the best. To each twenty pounds of fresh meat make a mixture of one-fourth of a pound of brown sugar and a dessertspoonful of ground saltpetre; rub this well by hand into the meat; then with coarse salt cover the bottom of a bar- rel, say to half an inch; put in hams, and cover with half an inch of salt, and so on until the barrel is full; hams should remain in a cvol place four weeks; when salted, wipe and dry them, and get some whole black pepper, which you must grind yourself, and pepper thorouglily, especially about the hock and bone; let the ham lie for two days; then smoke for eight weeks, Axle-Grease.—aA first-rate axle-grease is made as follows: Dissolve half a pound of common soda in one gallon of water; add three pounds of tallow and six pounds of palm oil, or ten pounds of palm oil only. Heat them to- gether to 200 or 210 degrees Fahr.; mix, and keep the mixture constantly stirred until the composition is cooled down to 60 or 70 degrees. A thinner composition is made with half a pound of soda, one gallon of water, one gal- lon of rape oil, and a quarter of a pound of tallow, or palm oil, AROUND THE FARM. 273 Driving Nails Into Hard Wood.—The editor of an agricultural peri- odical witnessed an experiment of driving nails into hard seasoned timber, fairly dried. He says that the first two nails, after passing through a pine board, entered about one inch, and then doubled down under the hammer; but on dipping the points of the other six or eight nails into lard, every one was driven home without the least difficulty. Carpenters who are engaged in repairing old buildings sometimes carry a small lump of lard or tallow for this purpose on one of their boots or shoes. . Good Well Curbing.—The best timber for curbing a well is hemlock, which is very durable when under water, and gives no flavor to the water. Of the woods some mention, all would rot very quickly except pine and tamarack, but pine is objectionable on account of its strong flavor. If hem- lock cannot be procured, tamarack would be the best. The timber should be cut in two or three inch planks, and put together by halving the timbers at the end, and holding the halved parts dovetailed or cornered together, so that the sides cannot be forced in by the pressure of the earth, the upper half of one piece fitting upon the lower half of the other piece. To Repair Leaky Roofs.—One of the very best preparations for repair- ing roofs that leak is to procure coal tar at the gas-works, and mix finely- sifted coal ashes or road dust with it till about as thick as mortar. Plaster with this carefully around leaky-roofed valleys or gutters, ur about chimney flushings. It will soon set as hard as stone, and apparently as indestructi- ble. This preparation is very cheap, and would probably answer equally well spread all over a roof previously laid with felt or roofing paper. Once put on properly, it would seem to be there for all time. A Cheap Rain Gauge.—To make a rain gauge for farmers’ use, just as good as if it cost three dollars, take a quart fruit can free from dents, hold the top in the fire until the solder is melted, then knock it off; place the can on a post, with brackets nailed around to keep it in place. Make a rule six inches long, divided into tenths of inches—one made out of a strip of slate is best. Measure the rain every morning after falling. An inch of rain is a good rainfall, ifit comes gently. This in weight will be 226,875 pounds, or 113 tons 875 pounds to the acre. Burning Stamps.—Tree stumps are said to be easily removed by boring a two-inch hole eighteen inches deep into the stump. Do this in the fall, and fill with a concentrated solution of saltpetre, and plug up to keep out water. By spring it will have permeated every part. Then fill the hole with kerosene, set on fire, and the whole stump, it is said, will be consumed, even to the roots. It would seem to be feasible, and it is certainly an easy way to get rid of stumps. The ashes will remain to fertilize the soil. How to Get Rid of Rats.—The English Standard says: ‘‘ Several corre- spondents write to announce the complete extirpation of rats and mice from their cow-stalls and piggeries since the adoption of this simple plan: A mix- ture of two parts well-bruised common squills and three parts finely-chopped bacon is made into a stiff mass, with as much meal as may be required, and then baked into small cakes, which are put down for the rats to eat.” Whitewash That Willi Stick.—To make whitewash that will not wash off by the rain, one peck of lime should be slaked in five gallons of water, in which one pound of rice has been boiled until it is all dissolved. The rice 274 THE FARM. water should be used hot, and the mixture covered tp closely until the lime is slaked. Then add a pound of salt, and the wash heated to boiling when used. It is not an expensive preparation. It can be prepared by any person wishing to use a good wash, and is highly satisfactory. Brother farmers, try it. Signs of a Prosperous Farmer.—When lights are seen burning in his house before the break of day, in winter especially, it shows that the day will never break on the breaking in of the winter of adversity. When you see him drive his work instead of his work driving him, it shows that he will never be driven from good resolutions, and that he will certainly work his way to prosperity. When he has a house separate from the main building purposely for ashes, and an iron or tin vessel to transport them, it shows that he never built his dwelling for a funeral pyre for his family, arid perhaps himself. When his hog-pen is boarded outside and in, it shows that he is “ going the whole hog or none,”’ in keeping plenty inside his house and poyerty out. When his sled is safely housed in summer, and his farming implements covered both winter and summer, it plainly shows that he will have a good house over his head in the summer of early life and the winter of old age. _ When his cattle are properly shielded and fed in winter it evinces that he is acting according to Scripture, which says that ‘‘ a merciful man is merciful to his beast.” ; When he is seen subscribing for a newspaper and paying for it in advance, it shows that he is speaking like a book respecting the latest movements in agriculture, and that he will never get his walking papers to the land of poverty. To Clean an Old Roof.—Those wishing to know the best means of re- moving moss and earth accumulations from an old shingle roof, are advised _ to sprinkle lime freely along the comb of the roof, and let the rains dissolye and carry it over the shingles. Every particle of dirt and moss will be re- moved by it. If kept clean, shingles will last much longer. This method is as good and cheaper than any direct application to the shingles. Paint for Farmers.—Farmers will find the following profitable for house or fence paint: Skim milk, two quarts; fresh slaked lime, eight ounces; linseed oil, six ounces; white burgundy pitch, two ounces; Spanish white, three pounds. The lime is to be slaked in water, exposed to the air and then mixed with about one-fourth of the milk; the oil in which the pitch 1s dissolved to be added a little at a time, then the rest of the milk, and after- ward the Spanish white. This is sufficient for twenty-seven yards, two coats. This is for white paint. If desirable, any other color may be produced; — thus, if cream color is desired, in place of the part of Spanish white use the other alone. To Prevent a Carriage from Spotting.—A newly-varnished carriage is liable to spot. To prevent this some wash the carriage two or three times in clean cold water applied with a sponge instead of using a hose; this will help harden the surface, and prevent it to some extent from being injured by the mud or water getting splashed on the job. Never let mud dry on the surface, and then wash off expecting to see nospots on the varnish. You will certainly be disappointed, and the only way to remedy this evil will be to have it revarnished, Soft water is better than hard water for the washing AROUND THE FARM. 275 of carriages, as the lime which is in the hard water is very liable to injure the varnish. Removing Carbonic Acid Gas or Foul Air from Wells.—A eorre- spondent gives an account of an extemporized apparatus for removing cas- bonic acid gas from wells. Itwas simply an opened out umbrella let down and rapidly hauled up a number of times in succession. The effect was to re- move the gas in a few minutes from a well so foul as to instantly extinguish pn previous to the use of the umbrella. Whenever there is an escape gas in an apartment, the adoption of this plan will be found useful. To Render Wood Uninflammable.—Professor Kedzie, of the Agri- cultural College of Michigan, an expert chemist, says that a paint or wash made of skim milk, thoroughly skimmed, and water brine, will render wood uninflammable, and he proved it by experiment. He said this paint, or white- wash, is durable, very cheap, impervious to water, of agreeable color, and, as it will prevent wood from taking fire, urged its use, particularly on roofs, outbuildings, barns, etc. Remedy for Burdocks.—It is said that a certain and speedy remedy for burdocks has been found in kerosene oil. A small quantity poured into the heart of a plant, directly after cutting, leaves no trace of their existence Save a small hole in the earth where they stood. Refined or crude oil will accomplish the purpose just as well. Paint for One Cent a Pound.—To one gallon of soft, hot water, add four pounds sulphate of zinc (crude). Let it dissolve perfectly, and a sedi- ment will settle at the bottom. Turn the clear solution into another vessel. To one gallon of paint (lead and oil), mix one gallon of the compound. Stir it into the paint slowly for ten or fifteen minutes, and the compound and paint will perfectly combine. If too thick thin it with turpentine. A Good Word for Toads.—Toads, according to Prof. Miles, live almost entirely upon slugs, caterpillars, beetles and other insects, making their rounds at night, when the farmer is asleep—and the birds, too—and the in- Sects are supposed to be having their own way. French farmers understand these facts so well that they purchase toads, at so much a dozen, and turn Protect the Swallow.—Among insectivorous birds the swallow is worthy of great encouragement. An examination of the stomachs of eight- een swallows killed at different seasons of the year showed that they con- _ tained an average of 406 undigested insects each, and not a single grain of sorn (of any kind), or the least particle of fruit or a trace of any vegetable. 4 _ Plan for Keeping Hams.—aA very good way of keeping hams is to wrap | them in strong brown paper so that the ashes cannot come in contact with them. . Then pack them in clean, hard wood ashes, in dry boxes or barrels. _ This will keep well cured hams quite sweet, as the ashes serve as a protec- _ tion against insects. The boxes should be set in a cool, dry place. Improving Lawns.—For ridding lawns of unsightly weeds, such as plantain and dandelions, the following plan is recommended by an experi- _ enced gardener: To the end of a light wooden rod attach a small sponge, or better, wind a few thicknesses of cloth around it, dip the sponge in oil of 276 THE’ FARM. vitriol, and with it touch the heart of the weed. The oil of vitrol may be car ried in a wide-mouthed bottle at the end of another rod. Mold in Cellars.—To get rid of mold in cellars, put some roll brimstone into a pan and set fire to it; close the doors, making the cellar as nearly air- tight as possible, when the fungi will be destroyed and the mold dried up. Repeat this simple and inexpensive operation every two or three months for two or three hours at a time. Thawing Frozen Apples.—tt is stated by those who have had the ad- vantage of experience, that if apples which have been frozen are thawed in ~ the dark they are uninjured; but ifin the light, they very soon become unfit for use. We should suppose the same result would most likely appear if the experiment were tried with potatoes. Washing Harness.—It is bad policy to wash harness with soap, as the potash injures the leather. Ifthe harness becomes rusty rub off the dirt as well as possible with a soft brush, and apply a dressing of grain black, fol- lowed with oil or tallow, which will fasten the color and make the leather soft and pliable. A Good Suggestion About Harness.—Add a little glycerine to the grease applied to harness, and it will be kept in a soft and pliable state, in spite of the ammoniacal exhalations of the stable, which tend to make it brittle. Gas Tar for Wagon Wheels.—A farmer who has tried it speaks in the highest praise of gas tar for painting wagon wheels, stating that it tightens tires and spokes better than anything that can be tried. Mice in the Grain Chest.—If you are troubled about the grain chest . with mice, watch for their holes and scatter a little copperas in them. A few grains will drive them away. Rats and Mice.—Rats and mice will go into a trap much more readily if a piece of looking-glass is put in any part of the trap where they can see themselves. They are social little creatures, and where they can see any of their tribe, there they will go. ~~ a a aS os a A — al iin THE HOUSEHOLD. COOKING RECIPES. Breakfast Dishes. To Make Good Coffee.—French cooks are famous for the excellence of their coffee, which they make so strong that one part of the liquor requires the addition of two parts to reduce it to the proper strength. This addition is made with hot milk. The large proportion of hot milk, in the place of so much warm water, gives the coffee a richness like that made by the addition of cream in the ordinary way. By this means any housekeeper desirous of making good coffee, can have it without cream. Hominy Muffins.—-Take two cups of very fine hominy, boiled and cold; beat it smooth and stir in three cups of sour milk, half a cup of melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of salt and two tablespoonfuls of white sugar; then add three eggs well beaten, one tablespoonful of soda dissolved in hot water, and one large cup of flour; bake quickly. Corn Muffins.—One pint of corn meal, one pint of sour milk, two table- spoonfuls of soda, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three tablespoon- fuls of melted butter, a little salt. Stir soda into the milk and mix with the meal; add the eggs, melted butter, sugar and salt. Beat briskly, and bake in eups ina hot oven. Very nice breakfast cakes. Breakfast Muffins.—Set a rising as for bread overnight. In the morn- ing, early, warm a pint of milk and beat into the dough sufficient to make it as for ordinary muffin batter; beat well for five or ten minutes and set to rise for breakfast. Bake in rings on a very hot griddle, and turn frequently to preyent burning. Buttermilk Mu‘ins.—One quart of sour milk, two eggs, one teaspoon- ful of soda dissolved in warm water, a teaspoonful of salt, and flour suffi- cient to make a good batter. Beat the eggs well, stir them into the milk, then add the flour and salt, and lastly the soda. Bake in a quick oven. Bread Griddle Cakes.—To a pint of bread crumbs add one pint of boiling milk; cover closely and let it stand over night. In the morning mash to a smooth paste and beatin the yelks of two eggs; then slowly add one- half pint of cold milk, beating all the time; and one-half pint of flour with which a measure of baking powder has been sifted; lastly add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; fry like griddle cakes. . Buckwheat Cakes.—The best buckwheat cakes are made with sm addition of corn meal flour and oat meal fleur to the buckwheat, in this pro- 278 THE HOUSEHOLD. portion: Six cups of buckwheat, three cups of oatmeal flour, or if this cannot be obtained, substitute graham flour in its place, and one cup of corn meal flour; to this add a dessertspoon evenly filled with salt, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, and lukewarm water sufficient to form a batter; stir through the flour well four teaspoonfuls of baking powder before ae but these ‘cakes are much better raised over night with yeast. French Pancakes.—To make French pancakes, take two eggs, two ounces of butter, two ounces of sifted sugar, two ounces of flour, half a pint of new milk. Beat the eggs thoroughly and put them into a basin with the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, stir in the milk, keep stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and sugar, and pile the pancakes on a dish, with a layer of preserves or marmalade between each. Egg Pancakes.—Beat six eggs light, add some salt, and one pint of fiour, and stir in gradually enough milk to make a thin, smooth batter. Take a hot griddle or skillet, butter the bottom, and put in enough batter to run over it as thin as a dollar piece. When brown turnit. When done take it out on a dish; put a little butter, sugar and cinnamon over it. Fry another and treat likewise, and so on until a plate is piled. Send hot to table for dessert or breakfast or tea. Cream Pancakes.—Take half a pint of thick cream, two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of finely-powdered spice; beat the yelks of three eggs, add them to the cream; mix well together; simply rub your pan with a bit of fritwre, make it hot, put in a small quantity of the batter, so as to have the pancakes as thin as possible. Serve them sprinkled over with grated lemon peel and pounded loaf sugar. Corn Griddle Cakes.—Two cups of coarse corn meal, two cups sour milk, or buttermilk, one egg, one tablespoonful graham flour, one teaspoon- ful soda dissolved in boiling water; make a batter of the meal, milk, eggs, and flour; ifitis too thick add a little milk; then stir im the dissolved soda, beat well, and bake immediately on a hot griddle; do not scorch the cakes. Wheat Griddle Cakes.—One quart of sour milk, two even teaspoonfuls of soda and one even teaspoonful of salt, flour enough to make a good batter; stir until the lumps are broken; fry at once. To Make Batter Pancakes.—Well beat three eggs with a pound of flour, put to ita pint of milk and a little salt, fry them in lard or butter, grate sugar over them, cut them in quarters, and serve them up. Breakfast Corn Cakes. Two eggs, one cup sweet milk, two table- spoonfuls sweet cream, one-half cup sugar, three-fourths cup flour, two cups Indian meal, three teaspoonfuls baking powder. Lemon Fiapjacks.—-One pint of milk, four eggs, juice of one lemon, a pinch of soda, and flour enough to make a light batter. Fry in hot lard. Serve with sugar and nutmeg. Delicious Wafiles.—One and one-half pint sweet milk; one teacup butter and lard, or one cup of either melted and put in the milk, then stir in the flour; next beat the yelks of four eggs, and add with two tablespoonfuls ~~ COOKING RECIPES. 279 of yeast and beat very hard. Beat the whites last, and stir them in gently. The consistency of the batter should be about like griddle cakes, or so it will run easily in the irons. Hominy Fritters.—Cook the hominy well; let it boil down pretty thick before using; add to one quart of boiled hominy about half a cup of sweet milk, one egg, a little salt, and flour enough to fry and turn without running; only enough lard required in frying to prevent burning; too much milk and flour toughens them. Omelet.—Comparatively few of our housekeepers dare attempt an omelet, but there is nothing difficult about it. The chief cause of failure lies in not haying the spider hot enough, or in making an omelet too large for the pan. For a spider eight inches in diameter, not more than four eggs should be used. For an omelet of this size, use four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of cream, or in place of that, use milk. Beat the yelks alone to a smooth batter, add the milk, salt and pepper, and lastly, the well-beaten whites. Have the frying-pan very bot. Putin a tablespoon- ful of butter, which should instantly hiss. Follow it quickly with the well- beaten mixture, and do not stir this after it goes in. Cook over a hot fire, and as the egg sects, loosen it from the pan without breaking, to prevent burning. It should cook in about ten minutes. When the middle is set, it is a good plan to place the pan on the high grate in the oven to brown the top. This is not needed if you turn half of the omelet over upon itself before turning the whole from the pan upon a hot dish. Eat while hot. Scrambled Eggs.—Many use only eggs with butter and salt for this dish—for four eggs, one tablespoonful of butter. Melt the butter and turn in the beaten eggs, and stir quickly one or two minutes over a hot fire. A common practice is to increase the quantity without impairing the quality by adding milk—a small cup to six eggs, and a tablespoonful of butter with salf and pepper as preferred. Stir-the&e ingredients over a hot fire, putting in the butter first, until the whole thickens. It should be soft and creamy when done. It is very fine served on toast. Eggs a la Creme.—Hard boil twelve eggs, and slice them in thin rings. In the bottom of a deep baking dish spread bits of butter, then a layer of bread crumbs, and then a layer of boiled eggs. Cover with bits of butter, and sprinkle with pepper and salt. Continue thus to blend these ingredients until the dish is full or nearly so. Crumbs over which bits of butter are spread, must cover all of these bits of eggs, and over the whole mixture a pint of sweet cream or sweet milk must be poured, before it is baked in a moderately heated oven. Eggs Newport Style.—Take one pint of bread crumbs and soak in one pint of milk. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir with the soaked crumbs, beating five minutes. Have ready a saucepan in which are two tablespoon- fuls of butter, thoroughly hot, but not scorching; pour in the mixture, season with pepper and salt, as the mass is opened and stirred with the “ seram- bling,” which should be done quickly with the point of the knife, for three minutes, or until thoroughly hot. Serve on 2 hot platter, with squares of buttered toast. _ Stuffed Eggs.—Six hard boiled eggs cutin two, take out the yelks and mash fine; then add two teaspoonfuls of butter, one of cream, two or three 280 THE HOUSENOLD. drops of onion juice, salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly, and fill the eggs with the mixture; put them together. Then there will be a little of the filling left, to which add one well-beaten egg. Cover the eggs with this mixture, and then roll in cracker crumbs. Fry a light brown in boiling fat. Cupped Eggs.—Put a spoonful of high-seasoned brown gravy into each cup; set the cups in a saucepan of boiling water, and, when the gravy heats, drop a fresh egg into each cup; take off the saucepan, and cover it close till the eggs are nicely and tenderly cooked; dredge them with nutmeg and galt. Serve them in a plate covered with a napkin. Eggs a la Mode.—Remove the skin from a dozen tomatoes, medium size, cut them up in a saucepan, add a little butter, pepper and salt; when sufficiently boiled beat up five or six eggs, and just before you serve, turn them into the saucepan with the tomato, and stir one way for two minutes, allowing them time to be well done. A Nice Dish for Breakfast.—Take some slices of bread cutting, off the crust; make a batter of three eggs and a pint of milk; soak the bread in it; put some butter in the frying pan; fry the slices of bread till brown. A Good Way to Cook Eggs.—Heat and grease the muffin irons; take a dozen eggs, break an egg in each muffin ring; put pepper, salt and a lump of butter on each; then putin the oven; as soon as it is slightly browned remove with a fork; dish and send to the table hot. Breakfast Dish.—A nice dish for breakfast is made by taking bits of ham that have been left from previous meals, cutting in small pieces, and heating them with two or three eggs stirred in. Pieces of beef may also be used, and enjoyed if properly cooked. Chop them fine, season with butter, pepper and salt, and serve hot. The excellence of these dishes depends upon the way in which you cook and season them. Anything which is warmed over, in order to be palatable, must be nicely prepared. Potato Cakes for Breakfast.—Save from dinner a soup-plate of mashed potatoes, add to it half a saltspoonful of pepper, the same of nutmeg, a little salt and the yelk of an egg; form into small cakes, put in a buttered baking-pan, brush the top with the white of an egg, and brown ina quick ’ oven. A Cheap Breakfast Dish.—Stale bread may be made into a palatable dish for breakfast by dipping it in butter and then frying in lard or butter. Make the batter with eggs—a teaspoonful of corn starch mixed in a table- spoonful of milk to each egg. A little salt should be added. ‘ Soups. Asparagus Soup.—Three pounds of knuckle of veal will make a strong stock. Put the veal to boil with one and a half bunches of asparagus, a gallon of water, and let it boil rapidly for three hours. Strain and return to the pot, adding another bunch of asparagus, chopped fine, and boil twenty minutes. Take a cup of milk, add a tablespoonful of flour; let it all just come to a boil and serye. Season well with pepper and salt. Potato Soup.—Mash to a smooth paste one pound of good mealy pota- gy toes, which haye been steamed or boiled very dry; mix them by degrees in” COOKING RECIPES. 981 two quarts of boiling water, in which two ounces of the extract of meat have been previously dissolved, pass the soup through a strainer, set it again on the fire, add pepper and salt; let it boil for five minutes, and be served with fried or toasted bread. Where the flavor is approved, two ounces of onions, minced and fried a light brown, may be added to the soup, and stewed in it for ten minutes before it is sent to table. Green Pea Soup.—Put two quarts green peas into four quarts of water, boil for two hours, keeping the steam waste supplied by fresh boiling water —then strain them from the liquor, return that to the pot, rub the peas through a sieve, chop an onion fine, and a small sprig of mint, let it boil ten minutes, then stir a tablespoonful of flour into two of butter, and pepper and salt to taste; stir it smoothly into the boiling soup. Serve with well-buttered sippets of toasted bread. Cream-of-Rice Soup.—Two quarts of chicken stock (the water in which the fowl has been boiled will answer), one teacup of rice, a quart of cream or milk, a small onion, a stalk of celery, and salt and pepper to taste. Wash the rice carefully, and add to the chicken stock, onion and celery. Cook slowly two hours (it should hardly bubble). Put through a sieve; add sea- soning and the milk or cream, which has been allowed to come just to a boil. If milk, use also a tablespoonful of butter. Chicken Cream Soup.—Boil an old fowl with an onion in four quarts of cold water until there remains but two quarts. Take it out and let it get cold. Cut off the whole of the breast and chop very fine. Mix with the* pounded yelks of two hard boiled eggs, and rub through a colander. Cool, skim, and strain the soup into a soup pot. Season; add the chicken and egg mixture, simmer ten minutes and pour into the tureen. Then add a small cup of boiling milk. Saturday Soup.—Collect all the bones which you haye on hand, beef, veal, mutton or fowl, and boil together one day. The next morning remove the fat and put the soup on to heat. If you have a little cold hash or a few croquettes, put them in, and add a saucer full of canned corn, salt and pepper to taste, a few slices of onion, half a teaspoonful of celery salt, one cup ofstewed tomato. Boil all together, and just before serving put ina few drops of caramel to make it a good brown. Caulifiower Soup.—Cauliflower and butter. Peel the cauliflowers, and put them in boiling water. When they are perfectly soft, strain the water off, and put them in the saucepan again with some butter. Moisten them with water or beef broth, and finish cooking them. Put some slices of fried bread in the soup, and let the whole boil gently until it is thick; then serve it. Minute Soup.—Excellent for supper where ing warm is desired, or for the little folks when they return from 1 ‘almost starved to -“@eath.” Light bread or crackers crumbed in a bowl or deep dish, add a lump of butter, half a cup of sweet cream, plenty of pepper and salt; if fond of onions, cut a few slices thin and lay over the top and pour over plenty of boiling water, and you will be surprised to see how good itis. If not fond cpa an egg well beaten, after the water is poured over, and stir ;, Veal Cream Soup.—Boil the remnants of a roast of veal until the meat _ falls from the bones; strain and cool. The next day put on to boil, with a 282 THE HOUSEHOLD. slice of onion and one-third cf a cup of raw rice. Let it simmer slowly for an hour. Add salt and pepper totaste. Just before serving add one cup of rich milk, or cream if you have it, heated first in a separate dish. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Macaroni Soup.—Put into a stewpan of boiling water four ounces of. macaroni, one ounce of butter, and an onion stuck with five cloves. When the macaroni has become quite tender, drain it very dry, and pour on it two quarts of clear gravy soup. Let itsimmer for ten minutes, taking care that the macaroni does not burst or become a pulp; it will then be ready to serve up. It should then be sent to the table with grated Parmesan cheese. Beef Soup.—Three pounds beef, three onions, three quarts water, one- half pint pearl barley. Boil beef slowly about an hour and a half, then add onions, sliced, and pearl barley (previously well washed and soaked half an hour); then boil about an hour longer. More water may be added, suffi- cient to have two quarts of soup when done. Season to taste with pepper. One Day Soup.—Half a can of tomatoes, five or six cold boiled or baked potatoes, half an onion, one stalk of celery or a few celery tops. Boil all to- gether until the vegetables are very soft, Put through a colander, add pep- per and salt, and a pinch of sugar. Just before serving pour in one cup of hot milk with a pinch of soda dissolved in it. Sift over the top a few very dry bread crumbs. Mutton Soup.—Take the water that remains in the steamer after the mutton is cooked; there should be about three quarts; add one-half cup English split peas, nicely washed, one small onion, and cook gently three hours, adding a little more water if itcooks away much. Before taking from the fire add salt and pepper to taste. Poultry Soup.—Take the carcass and bones of any poultry, turkey par- ticularly, and put in a kettle with plenty of water, and boil all the forenoon, filling up with hot water if necessary, and at dinner time youvwill find to your surprise a most savory soup; season with salt and pepper. Bean Soup.—Put one quart of beans to soak over night in lukewarm water. Put over the fire next morning with one gallon cold water and about two pounds salt pork. Boil slowly about three hours, add a little pepper. It is better to shred into it a head of celery. Strain through a colander and serve with slices of lemon to each guest. Julienne Soup.—Put a piece of butter the size of an egg intu a soup kettle; stir it until melted; fry three onions and then put in three quarts of good stock, salt, pepper, mace and celery seed, two chopped carrots, two chopped turnips, a pint of dried peas that have been soaked in water over night. Boil two hours. ~ Codfish Soup.—Boil a teacup of codfish in three pints of water for twenty minutes; add three tablespoonfuls of flour and a little hot water; boil up once; add two pints of milk, let it boil; add three eggs. When served in a tureen, add one poached egg for each person. ’ Vegetable Soup. Take one turnip, one potato and one onion; let them be sliced, and boiled in one quart of water for an hour; add as much salt and parsley as is agreeable, and pour the whole on a slice of toasted bread. —— jor re eS ae COOKING RECIPES. 283 Tomato Soup.—Pour a quart of boiling water over a pint of canned to- matoes. Let them boil for an hour, or until they become soft. Strain and return to the fire. Stir in a teaspoonful of soda; this will make it effervesce, and while it is still foaming add a pint of boiling milk, a large piece of but- ter, pepper and salt. Thicken slightly with cracker-dust and serve immedi- ately, Summer Soup.—Eight potatoes boiled soft, piece of butter size of two eggs; boil one quart of milk and one quart of water together, and pour boil- ing hot on the soft potatoes; strain, and then boil half an hour in the milk and water. . Plain Soup.—Boil fresh beef or mutton bones three hours, salt; to one gallon liquid add one teacup washed rice, two or three cloves, boil one-half hour, and it is done. ‘ Okra Soup.—tTo five quarts of water and a shin of beef add four dozen okras, sliced thin, and a few tomatoes; boil from six to seven hours, and add salt and red pepper to taste. Meats and Poultry. Potted Beef.—Choose lean beef; rub it over with saltpetre, and let it lie twelve hours; salt it well with a mixture of bay salt and common salt. Put it into a jar of the requisite size, immerse it in water, and let it remain four or five days. Then take it out, wipe it dry, and rub it with ground black pepper; lay it in a pan, cover it with a crust, and bake seyen hours. Take it out when done and let it cool; then pick out the skins’ and strings, and beat it in a strong mortar, adding seasoning of mace, cloves, and nutmeg, in powder, and a little melted butter and flour. Press it closely into pots, and pour over it clarified butter. French Beefsteak.—Cnut the steak two-thirds cf an inch thick from 2 fillet of beef; dip into melted fresh butter, lay them on a heated gridiron and broil over hot coals. When nearly done sprinkle pepper and salt. Have ready some parsley, chopped fine and mixed with softened butter. Beat them together to a cream, and pour into the middle of the dish. Dip each steak into the butter, turning them over, and lay them round on the platter. If you desige, squeeze a few drops of lemon over, and serve very hot. An Excellent Dish.—A dish equal to the best steak and cheap enough for any man, is prepared from a shank of beef with some meat onit. Have the bone well broken; wash carefully to remove bits of bone; coyer with cold water; watch when the boiling begins and take off the scum that rises. Stew five or six hours till the muscles are dissolved; break the meat small with a fork—far better than chopping—put it in a bread pan, boil down the gravy till in cooling it will turn to astiffjelly. Where this is done, gelatine is quite superfluous. Add salt, and, if liked, other seasoning, and pour it hot npon the meat; stir together and set aside over night, when it will cut into handsome mottled slices for breakfast or supper. Chicken Viennese Style.—Procure two very young spring chickens, pluck and draw them carefully, without injuring the skin. Take a very sharp knife and cut each exactly in two; sprinkle with a little pepper and salt, rub a little fresh salad-oil over each piece, and thoroughly egg and 284 THE HOUSEHOLD. breadcrumb them. Rub a little suct on a clean gridiron, place it overa very clear fire, with the four pieces of chicken, broil them very carefully until of a nice brown color; then having ready a hot dish, with four pieces of toasted bread on it, lay half a chicken on each piece of toast, and pour over all a good white sauce, which must be made with a little raw cream. Chicken Patties.—Chicken patties are made by picking the meat from a cold chicken and cutting it in small pieces.. Put it in a saucepan with a little water or milk, butter, pepper and salt. Thicken with a little flour and with the yelk of one egg. Line some patty-pans with crust, not rich and yet not tough, rub them over with the white of the egg, and bake. When done, fill with the chicken, and send to the table hot. Cut out round cakes of the crust for the tops of the little pies, and bake on a common baking tin. Itis very little trouble to do this, and the pleasure afforded each child by haying a little chicken pie of his own amply pays the right-minded cook. Smothered Chickens.—(Cut the chickens in the back, lay them flat in a dripping-pan, with one cup of water; let them stew in the oven until they begin to get tender; take them out and season with salt and pepper; rub together one and one-halftablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful butter; spread all over the chickens; put back in the oven, baste well, and when tender and nicely browned take out of the dripping-pan; mix with the gravy in the pan one cup of thickened milk with a little flour; put on the stove and let it scald up well and pour over the chickens; parsley, chopped fine, is a nice addition to the gravy. Virginia ried Chicken.—Dice and fry cne half pound of salt pork until itis well rendered. Cutup a young chicken, soak for half an hour in salt and water, wipe dry, season with pepper, roll in flour, and try in hot fat until each piece is of a rich brown color. Take up and set aside in a warming closet. Pour into the gravy one cup of milk—half cream is better; thicken with a spoonful of flour, and add a spoonful of butter and chopped parsley; boil up and pour over the hot chicken, or, if preferred, serve with- out the cream gravy, with bunches of fried parsley. Plain boiled rice should accompany this. Beef Rolls.—The remains of cold roast or boiled beef, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and minced herbs; puff paste. Mince the beef tolerably fine, with a small amount of its own fat; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and chopped herbs; put the whole into a roll of puff paste and bake for half an hour, or rather longer, should the roll be very large. Beef patties may be made of cold meat by mincing and seasoning beef as directed above, and baking in a rich puff paste in patty tins. Veal Cutlets.—The cutlets should be cut as handsomely as possible, and about three-quarters of an inch in thickness; they should, before cook- ing, be well beaten with the blade of a chopper, if a proper beater be not at hand; they should then be fried a light brown and sent up to table, gar- nished with parsley, and rolls of thin-sliced, nicely-fried bacon; they are with advantage coated previously to cooking with the yelk of an egg, and dredged with bread crumbs. A la Mode Chicken.—Pick and draw a fine young chicken, wash and wipe dry and season with salt and pepper. Make a nice pastry, roll out an inch thick; wrap the chicken im it, tie in a cloth, and boil an hour or two, ac- a : COOKING RECIPES. 285 cording to the tenderness of the fowl. Makea dressing of one tablespoonful of flour, one of butter, and sufficient boiling water to make a smooth paste. Place the chicken on a dish, and pour the dressing over it, garnish with parsley or celery leaves and a hard-boiled egg cut in slices. Curry— Take cold chicken, turkey, or cold lamb, cut it in small pieces, and put in a frying-pan with about a pint or more boiling water; let it stew a few moments, then take the meat out, thicken the gravy with a little flour, add a teaspoonful of curry powder, pepper and salt to taste, and let it boil up once; haye some rice boiled whole and dry; put it around the outside of the platter, and in the center put the meat; throw the gravy over the meat, not the rn and serve. Tripe a la Lyonaise with Tomatoes.—This econumical dish, which is in the reach of every family, is very fine. Take two pounds of dressed and boiled tripe, cut into small strips two inches long and put into a sance- pan. Parboil and drain off the first water; chop a small onion fine and let all stew twenty minutes; add half a teacup of thickening and then stir in half a canof tomatoes. Season with saltand pepper. This dish has become yery popular in all the hotels throughout the country. Boiled Corn Beef.—This is much improved if cooked in plenty of water, and when thoroughly done, left until cold in the same water that it was boiled in. Lift the pot off the fire, and let pot, water, and meat grow cold together. This will makeit much more moist and juicy, besides tender and sweet, than if taken out hot and all the moisture in it dried out by standing and steaming until it grows cold. Hams, tongues, etc., should be cooked in the same way. To Cook a Rabbit.—When nicely dressed lay it in a pan and cover with cold water, and add half a teacup salt and soak over night; in the morning drain off water and cover the rabbit inside and out with dry corn meal, and let stand till time to cook for dinner; then rinse, cut up and parboil in slightly salted water until tender; take out, roll in corn meal and fry a nice brown; an onion sliced and laid over it while parboiling is an improvement for those who like the flavor. Baked Ham.—Make a thick paste of flour (not boiled) and cover the ham with it, bone and all; putin a pan on a spider or two muffin rings, or anything that will keep it an inch from the bottom, and bake in a hot oven. If a small ham, fifteen minutes for each pound; if large, twenty minutes. The oven should be hot when put in. The paste forms a hard crust around the ham and the skin comes cff with it. Try this, and you will never cook a ham in any other way. Sauce Piquante.—Pui a bit of butter, with two sliced onions, into a with a carrot, a parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, basil, two cloves, two shallots, a clove of garlic, and some parsley; turn the whole over the fire until it be well colored; then shake in some flour, and moisten it with some broth and aspoonful of vinegar. Let it boil over a slow fire; skim, and strain it through a sieve. Season it with salt and pepper, and serve it with any dish required to be heightened. Minced Veal and Eg¢s.—Take some remnants of roast or braised veal, trim off all browned parts, and mince it very finely; fry a shallot, or onion, 286 THE HOUSEHOLD. chopped small, in plenty of butter; when it is a light straw-color add a large pinch of flour and a little stock, then the minced meat, with chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to taste; mix well, add more stock if necessary, and let the mince gradually get hot by the side of the fire; lastly, add a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve with sippets of bread fried in butter round, and the poached eggs on top. Boned Chicken.—This is nice for picni¢s. First take out the breast- bone; then remove the back with a sharp knife, and next the leg bones; keep the skin unbroken, and push within it the meat of the legs. Fill the body with alternate layers of parboiled tongue, veal force-meat, the liver of the fowl, thin slices of bacon, or aught else of good flavor which will give a marbled appearance to the fowl when served; then sew up and truss as usual, Pigeon Pie.—Border a dish with fine puff paste, lay a veal cutlet (or tender rump steak) cut in thin slices at the bottom of the dish; season with salt, cayenne, nutmeg, or pounded mace. Put as many young pigeons as the dish will contain, with seasoning as above, and in the interstices the yelks of some hard-boiled eggs; put some butter over them, fill up with good gravy, cover with paste, glaze with the yelk of an egg, and bake. Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese Way.—Cut the chops, and half fry them with sliced shallot or onion, chopped parsley, and two bay leaves; season with pepper and salt; then lay a force-meat on a piece of white paper, put the chops on it, and twist the paper up, leaving a hole for the end of the bones’to go through. Broil on a gentle fire. Serve with sauce Robert; or, as the seasoning makes the cutlets high, a little gravy. A Brown Sauce.—For one quart. Stir gently in a stewpan over a slow fire, till of a light golden color, two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour, then add two pints of stock; stir till perfectly smooth; add four teaspoonfuls (one and one-third ounce) of the extract of meat and a sprig of marjoram, one of thyme, and two of parsley; boil a quarter of an hour slowly; strain, season, and it is fit for use. . Fried Meat Cakes.—Chop lean raw meat, as you would for sausage, season with salt, pepper, and onion; shape into flat cakes, dip the cakes in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in dripping. Any meat may be used for this dish, but it is particularly nice of beef, and the finest portions need not be put to this use. Drain on a strainer; have ready a dish of nicely mashed potatoes, on which put your beef-cakes, and serve. Veal Scollop.—Put a layer of cold chopped veal in a buttered dish; sea- son with salt, pepper and butter; then strew over it a layer of finely pow- dered cracker, and pour over a little milk to moisten it; add another layer of veal and so on. When the dish is full wet well with gravy and warm water, cover with a tin plate and bake. Remove the cover ten minutes be- _ fore it is done to let it brown. Thick Gravy.—Melt in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of a walnut; add two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well; then add one pint of hot water, half a teaspoonful of the extract, and sauce to taste. This will be found suitable for poultry, or wherever thick gravy is required, The above may be made richer by using a larger proportion of extract, : COOKING RECIPES. 287 Hashed Fowl.—Take the meat from a cold fowland cut it in small pieces. Put half a pint of well-flavored stock into a stewpan, add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and thicken with some flour and butter; let it boil, then put in the pieces of fowl to warm; after stewing sufficiently, serve with some poached eggs laid on the hash, with a sprig of parsley in the center, and garnish round the plate with pieces of fried bread. » Chicken Fried.—Cnt some cold chicken into pieces and rub each with yelks of eggs; mix together some bread crumbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel and parsley; cover the pieces of chicken with this and fry them. Thicken some good gravy by adding flour, and put into it cayenne pepper, mushroom powder or ketchup, and a little lemon juice, and serve this with the chicken as sauce. : ; To Remove Fishy Taste from Game.—Pare a fresh lemon very care- fully without breaking the thin white inside skin, put inside a wild duck and keep it there forty-eight hours, and all the fishy taste so disagreeable in wild fowl will be removed. Every twelve hours remove the lemon and re- place with a fresh one. A lemon thus prepared will absorb unpleasant flavors from all meats and game. _ © Chicken Fritters.—Cut into neat pieces some tender cold chicken and let them stand awhile in a mixture of lemon juice, salt and pepper. Make a batter of milk, egg, flour and salt, stir the chicken into it, and then fry in boiling lard, putting one bit of chicken in each spoonful of batter. Serve very hot, taking care to drain the fat off well. Garnish with parsley. Chicken Croquette.—Two sweet breads boiled; one teacup of boiled chicken, hashed; one boiled onion, one teacup of boiled bread and milk, quarter pound butter, salt and pepper. Chop chicken and sweet breads very fine, mix in well the other ingredients, shape into rolls, then dip in the yelk of an egg, then in cracker dust; drop into boiling lard and fry brown. New Way of Cooking Chickens.—A new way of cooking chickens is to parboil them and then drop them into hot lard, a i doughnuts, and fry a few minutes. This will serve to make variety in the bill of fare, but will not wholly take the place of the favorite method of browning in butter. Nice gravy may be made by adding milk and flour to the butter in which chickens have been fried. French Chicken Pie.—A tender chicken cut in joints, half pound salt pork cut in small pieces, boil the two together till nearly tender in a little water; line a deep dish with pie-paste, put in the meat, season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, put in a little water and cover over with the pie-paste, which should be rich; bake forty minutes. Pickled Tongue.—The remains of pickled tongues are very nice inter- mixed and placed in a pan and pressed, when they will turn out resembling collared meat. A little thick jelly may be poured into the pan with them. Slices of cold tongue may be warmed into any kind of savory sauce and laid in 2 pile in the center of a dish, the sauce being poured over them. A Delicious Beefsteak.—Have your frying pan very hot, wipe the steak dry, place in it and cover tightly: tarn frequently and keep covered. When done, add to the gravy one tablespoonful hot coffee, a good size lump of ‘utter; selt and pepper to taste. Pour over the steak and serve hot. 288 THE HOUSEHOLD. A Veal Omelet.—A veal omelet is prepared by chopping a little cold veal and adding toit the beaten egg. Cold boiled ham may be chopped and added in the same way; also veal and ham together, which is very nice, Three or four tablespoonfuls of meat are enough. A little chopped parsley is sometimes added, but herbs are not now so much used in cooking as formerly, though they are an addition to the flavor. How to Pickle Tongues.—A good-sized tongue requires to boil at least three hours. Itis a good plan to soak it over night in cold water. To cook it, put it on in cold water and let it come slowly to the boil. Some cooks change the water when itis half.done; if this course is taken, be sure that the fresh water is boiling before the tongue is placed in it. Roast Partridge.—Lard them well with fat pork; tie the legs down to the rump, leaving the feet on; while cooking, baste them well with but- ter. They require twenty-five or thirty minutes to cook. To make a gravy, put the drippings into a saucepan with a piece of buiter about the size of an egg, and a little flour and hot water. Let it boil up once. To Dress Cold Fowl.—Take the remains of a cold fowl, remove the skin, then the bones, leaving the flesh in as large pieces as possible; dredge with flour, and fry a light brown in butter; toss it up in a good gravy well sea- soned and thickened with butter rolled in flour; serve hot with bits of toasted bread. Bread Sauce for Partridges.—Cut up an onion, and boil it in milk until it is quite soft; then strain the milk into a cup of stale breadcrumbs, and let it stand one hour. Then put it into a saucepan, with about twe ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt, mace and the boiled onion. Boil it all - up together, and serve it in a sauce-tureen. Stewed Liver.—Cut up into slices half a pound of calf’s liver and the same quantity of fat bacon; put first, a layer of bacon at the bottom of a pie- dish, then one of liver; sprinkle with pepper and salt, add one medium- sized onion and one apple, both cut up; cover down and let it stew gently in the coven for about one hour and a quarter. No water is required. How to Make Meat Tender.—Cut the steaks the day before into slices about two inches thick, rub them over with a small quantity of soda; wash off next morning, cut into suitable thickness, and cook as you choose. The same process will answer for fowls, legs of mutton, etc. Try, all who love delicious, tender dishes of meat. A Nice Supper Dish.—-Grate or mince lean ham very fine; mix with it the yelk of an egg and some cream; season with a very little nutmeg. Haye ready some small slices of bread half an inch thick; toast them a delicate brown; then, while hot, spread the meat over it; break the yelk of an egg over the top and brown slightly in the oven, and send to table hot. Spiced Veal.—One pound of veal, chopped very fine; season with two well-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, teaspoonful of salt and sage each. Putitinto a cake-pan, and bake about an hour. Slice when cold, Mint Sauce for Lamb.—T wo full tablespoons of very finely-chopped young mint, one of pounded and sifted loaf-sugar, and six of haa vine- gar. Stir all these ingredients together until the sugar is dissolved, COOKING RECIPES. 289 Delicious Flavor to Lamb.—To give a delicious flavor to lamb which is to be eaten cold, put in the water in which it is boiled whole cloves and long sticks of cinnamon. To one leg of lamb allow one small handful of cloves, two or three sticks of cinnamon. If the lamb is to be roasted, boil ~ the cloves and cinnamon in water, and baste the lamb with it. Fillet of Veal Boiled.—Bind it round with tape, put it in a floured cloth, and in cold water; boil very gently two hours and a half, or if sim- mered, which is, perhaps, the better way, four hours will be taken; it may be sent to table in bechamel or with oyster-sauce. Care should be taken to keep it as white as possible. Cold Tongue on Toast.—Take cold smoked tongue or ham; mince or grate fine, mix it with the beaten yelks of eggs and cream or milk, with a dash of cayenne pepper; prepare thin, small, square pieces of buttered toast; place on a heated platter, putting a spoonful of the meat on each piece; cover with dish cover, and send to table hot; for breakfast or lunch. Veal Sausages.—Take fat bacon and lean veal in equal quantities, with a handful of sage, a little salt, pepper, and, if at hand, an anchovy. Let all be chopped and beaten well together, floured, rolled, and fried. Veal sau- sages are better suited for persons whose digestion is not very strong than those made of pork. Excellent Tea Dish.— e7 290 THE HOUSEHOLD. F ‘ The Right Way to Cook Steak.—Broil steak without salting. Salt — draws the juice in cooking. It is desirable to keep this in if possible. Cook over a hot fire, turning frequently, searing on both sides. Place on a platter. Salt and pepper to taste. : Boiled Tongue.—If the tongue is not hard, soak it not more than three hours. Put it intoa stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of herbs; let it come to a boil, skim and simmer gently until tender, peel off the skin : and garnish it with parsley and lemon, see Frizzied Beef.—Chip the beef as thin as paper with a very sharp knife, Melt in a frying-pan butter the size of an egg, stir the beef about in it for 5 two or three minutes, dust in a little flour, add half a i of r sich boil and serve in a covered dish. ; them with salt and pepper, and broil upon one of the gridirons ‘close bars, sold for the purpose; you can dredge the oysters with flour vwiah to have them brown, and many persons fancy the juices are bet- preserved in that way; butter the gridiron well, and let your fire be hot 1 1 clear; broil quickly and dish hot, putiing a bit of butter upon each ter as it is taken from the gridiron. _ __ Codfish with Cream.—Pick ont carefully in flakes all the flesh from the remnants of some boiled codfish; melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, nd add to it a large pinch of flour and a gill of milk or cream, with pepper, lt, and grated nutmeg to taste, also the least bit of cayenne; stir well; put the fish, and gently shake it in this sauce until quite warm. If the com- position be too dry, add a little milk or cream; then add, off the fire, the : ks of two eggs, beaten up with a little milk, and serve. Broiled Salmon.—The middle slice of salmon is the best. Sew up eatly in a mosquito-net bag, and boil a quarter of an hour to the pound in hot, salted water. When done, unwrap with care, and lay upon a hot dish, ; ae care not to break it. Have ready a large cup of drawn butter, very _ fich, in which has been stirred a tablespoonful of minced parsley and the juice ofa lemon. Pour half upon the salmon, and serve the rest in a boat, Garnish with parsley and sliced eggs, 292 THE HOUSEHOLD. Oyster Patty.—Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, drain them perfectly dry, and flour and fry them lightly in butter. Take each oyster separately with a fork and put them into a stewpan, strain the liquor in which you have scalded the oysters into the butter and flour that remains in the frying pan, stir well together, and season with a little pepper, salt and a little juice of lemon; pour the whole on the oysters, and let them stew. When rearly done thicken with a small quantity of butter rolled in flour, and fill your patties. Salmon Croquettes.—Mix the fish thoroughly with an equal quantity of boiled rice, adding a little melted butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Mold into small sausage-shaped forms, and roll them first in finely-pow- dered crackers, then in beaten egg yelk, and again in the cracker crumbs. Fry in hot fat like doughnuts. A palatable, nutritious food, easily prepared, and as the egg prevents the entrance of much fat they are readily digestible. Clams with Cream.—Chop fifty small clams, not too fine, and season with pepper and salt. Put into a stewpan butter the size of an egg, aud when it bubbles sprinkle in a teaspoonful of flour, which cook a few minutes; stir gradually into it the clam liquor, then the clams, which stew about two or three minutes; then add a cup of boiling cream, and serve immediately. - Baked Bluefish.—Chop up an onidn and fry it in butter; then add half a pound of soft, fine bread crumbs, a tablespoonful of fresh butter, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a few drops of lemon. After cooking a very little, take it up and add a well-beaten egg. Stuff your bluefish with this. Serve the fish with a drawn butter sauce having a little finely-chopped pickled asparagus in it. ; Deviled Cxabs.—Boil your hard crabs, and take out the meat and mince it. Grate two ounces of bread erumbs and mix with them two hard-boilel ~ eggs chopped fine, some cayenne, salt, and lemon juice. Add all this to six ounces of the crab meat, make moist and rich with cream, clean the shells, fill them with the mixture, and put some bread crumbs over the top, and brown in a hot oven. Crab Sauce.—Mix about two or three ounces of butter with a little flour, and melt it in about a pint of milk. Stir it over the fire for afew minutes. Pick the meat from a fine boiled crab, chop it into small pieces, season it with a little cayenne, powdered mace and salt, and stir it into the melted butter and milk. Then warm it gradually and simmer for a minute or two, but do not let it boil. Panned Clams.—aAllow one patty-pan with nearly upright sides to each person. Cut stale bread in rounds to fit the bottom of each pan, butter it, and wet with clam liquor. Fill each pan nearly full of clams, pepper and salt them, and lay a bit of butter on each. Put them in a dripping-pan, cover with another, and bake till the edges curl—about ten minutes. Serve — in the pans. Codfish Balls.—Boil and pick the codfish. Boil potatoes, mash well, — mix with them a piece of butter, season with pepper and salt, and add cream snongh to moisten them. Mix codfish and potatoes together in like propor- tion, and add three or four chopped hard-boiled eggs, and a little finely- — mineed onion. Make into cakes and fry in boiling lard, *. ~~ . ee. ye ‘ COOKING RECIPES. 298 Oyster Toast.—Toast white bread nicely, then place oysters with their juice on the fire; as soon as boiling remove, take out the oysters, set the juice back again and stir in a large tablespoonful of butter rubbed with a little flour, let this boil five minutes, remove, then add the yelks of two eggs, pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, and the oysters, which have been pounded fine; use the mixture to spread over toast; set in the oven to heat thoroughly. How to Cook Clams.—Take one dozen clams—open, saving juice and meat—chop the meat fine. Take six eggs, mixing the whites and the yelks; then mix the clams (juice and meat) with the eggs, and cook over a slow - fire, stirring constantly till the mixture has the consistency of stiff cream. Take off and serve—a dish fit for a king. _ Fish Croquettes.—Take one pint of any cold white fish, flake it very ” fine, remove all bones and pieces of skin; season it highly with salt, pepper, ‘cayenne and onion juice. Let the taste decide, but remember that fish needs more than meat. Moisten the fish with one cup thick cream sauce. Clam Cakes.—Make a batter of one egg, beaten light, with one cup of milk, two and one-half cups of flour, and a little salt; beat well together and then stir in lightly three dozen clams that have been washed and drained, and drop in hot fat with a tablespoonful of batter, and one or two clams in each spoonful, fry brown and drain in a colander. Serve immediately. Cornish Fish Pie.—In Cornwall almost every kind of fish is put into a pie, well floured over, with a little chopped parsley and onions, a little pep- per and salt, some broth or water, and a nice short crust over it; there is a hole left in the crust at the top, and through this hole some cream is poured in just before serving. ; Pickled Oysters.—Open the oysters, and take each one away from its liquor; boil some vinegar, equal quantities, with the liquor of the oysters; put in some whole mace; drop the oysters into the boiling liquor, and lift them speedily from the fire; then bottle them. This method keeps the oys- ters from shriveling. : To Broil Smoked Halibut.—Select halibut of a dark-brown color, the- thimmest and hardest; soak twenty-four hours in cold water, with the flesh side down; only cover with water; broil over hot coals; serve with a little butter, or poach eggs and dish them with the halibut as if for ham, Clam Soup.—Twenty-five clams, opened raw and chopped fine; add three quarts of water; boil them one-half hour, then add a pint of milk, one onion chopped fine, thicken with butter and flour, beat three eggs in the tureen, and pour your broth over them boiling hot. Broiled Mackercl.—Split down the back and clean; be careful to scrape all the thin black skin from the inside. Wipe dry and lay on a greased grid- iron; broil on one side brown, and then on theother side. The side that has the skin on shonld be turned to the fire last. ‘Oyster Macaroni.—Boil macaroni in a cloth, to keep it straight. Put a er in a dish seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper, then a layer of oys- ters, alternate, until the dish is full. Mix some grated bread with a beaten egg. Spread over the top and bake. - } 294 Pik HOUSEHOLD. Oyster Loaf.—Cut a round picce five inches across from the top of a nicely-baked round loaf of bread; remove the crumbs, leaving the crust half an inch thick; make a rich oyster stew and put it in the loaf in layers, sprinkled with bread crumbs; place the cover over the top, cover the loaf with the beaten yelk of an egg and putitin the oven to glaze; serve very hot, Sauce Piquante for Fish.—Make a brown sauce by frying a chopped onion in a little butter, adding a large teaspoonful of flour and a tumbler of stock. Simmer a little, strain, and put in a teaspoonful of vinegar, one of chopped cucumber pickle, and one of capers. Fish Sauce. Take half a pint of milk and cream together, two eggs, well beaten, salt, a little pepper, and the juice of half a lemon; pnt it over the fire, and stir it constantly until it begins to thicken. Vegetables. Boiling Potatoes.—To boil a potato well requires more attention than is usually given. They should be well washed and left standing in cold water an hour or two, to remove the black liquor with which they are im- pregnated, and a brackish taste they would otherwise have. They should not be pared before boiling; they lose much of the starch by so doing, and are made insipid. Put them into a kettle of clear cold water, with a little salt, cover closely, and boil rapidly, using no more water than will just cover them, as they produce a considerable quantity of fluid themselves while boiling, and too much water will make them heavy. As soon as just done instantly pour off the water, set them back on the range, and leave the cover off the saucepan till the steam has evaporated. They will then, if a good kind, be dry and mealy. This is an Irish receipt, and a good one. Snap Beans and Potatces.—Snap some beans and parboil them; then pour into a colander and let the water drain off. Take several potatoes, peel, and cut into small pieces; put into a saucepan a spoonful of lard and an onion cut up small, the potatoes, and last, the snap beans. Ifyou have any beef broth, pour just enough into the skillet to cover the beans; if not, use boiling water; season with salt and pepper; let it boil till the potatoes are done. Should there be any broth, pour it off; add a piece of butter the size of a walnut and dredge a little flour over the beans; mix thoroughly by stirring, and let it simmer a few minutes longer, then remove from the fire. To Cook Asparagus.—Scrape the stalks till they are clean; throw them into a pan of cold water, tie them up in bundles of about a quarter of a hundred each; cut off the stalks at the bottom all of a length, leaying enough to serve as a handle for the green part; put them into a stew pan of boiling water, with a handful of saltinit. Let it boil and skim it. When they are | tender at the stalk, which will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done enough. Watch the exact time of their becoming tender; take them up that instant. While the asparagus is boiling, toast a slice of bread about half an inch thick; brown it delicately on both sides; dip it lightly in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it in the middle of a dish; melt some butter, but do not put it over them. Serve with butter. Asparagus with Eggs.—This dainty luncheon-dish is made of what- — ever asparagus may be left over from the previous day. Supposing there — il he > COOKING RECIPES. 26 ive a dozen heads of asparagus, cut the green part into pieces the size of peas, melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful of cream or milk, a tablespoonful of gravy, a little pepper and salt, and three well- beaten eggs. Throw in the asparagus, stir the eggs quickly over the fire for half a minute till they are set, and pour the mixture neatly upon slices of bread which have been dipped in boiling water and buttered. Stewed Cucumbers.—Cut the cucumbers fully half an inch thick right through; put them in a saucepan, just covering them with hot water, and let them boil slowly for a quarter of an hour, or until tender, but not so as to break them, then drain them; you want now a pint of good cream, and put your cream with a teaspoonful of butter, in a saucepan, and when it is warm pop in the eucumbers, season with a little salt and white pepper, cook five minutes, shaking the saucepan all the time, and serve hot. It is just as delicate as asparagus, and a very nice dish, indeed. Staffed Turnips.—Peel and boil in boiling water well salted a quart of medium-sized turnips; as soon as they are tender drain them, cut a slice from the top of each, scoop out half the middle with a teaspoon, mash the part taken out, with a little salt, pepper, butter and the yelk of an egg, and fill the turnips with the mixture; put on each one the slice cut from the top, brush them over with the beaten white of an egg, set them in a baking dish and brown them in a hot oven. Serve them hot. Macaroni.—People who like macaroni will find pleasure in eating it when prepared in this way: Boil it until it is tender, taking care to preserve the shape so far as possible. When it is done drain off all the water and pour over it a little sweet milk, with a lump of butter and plenty of pepper and salt. While the macaroni is boiling, cook in a separate saucepan enough tomatoes to make a pint when stewed. When the macaroni is ready for the table, pour the tomatoes over it; serve hot. Stuffed Egg Plant.—Cut them in half lengthwise, and parboil them in salted water; scoop out most of the inside and pound this to a paste in the mortar with a hittle fat bacon and some mushrooms previously chopped up, a little onion also chopped, pepper and salt to taste, and a little crumb of bread soaked in stock. Fill each half with this mixture, lay them in a well buttered tin and bake for about a quarter of an hour. Staffed Squash.—Pare a small squash and cut off a slice from the top; extract the seeds and lay one hour in salt water; then fill with a good stuffing of crumbs, chopped salt pork, parsley, etc., wet with gravy; put on the top slice; set the squash in a pudding dish; put in a few spoonfuls of melted butter and twice as much hot water in the bottom; cover the dish very closely and set in the oven two hours, or until tender; lay within a deep dish and pour the gravy over it. Saratoga Potatoes.—Cut raw potatoes in slices as thin as wafers with a thin sharp knife; lay them in cold water over night, a bit of alum will make them more crisp; next morning rinse in cold water and dry with a towel. Have ready a kettle of lard, hotter than for fried cakes, and drop in the potatoes a few at a time. They will brown quickly, skim out in a colander and sprinkle with salt, or lay them on a double brown paper in the oven till dry. Ifany are left over from the meal, they can be warmed in the oven, and will be just as good for another time, B06 PHE HOUSEHOLD. Baked Onions.—Peel ten large onions without breaking the jayers; boil them for half an hour in well-salted boiling water, and drain them; when cool enough to handle cut a half-inch slice from the top of each, and take out a teaspoonful of the middle part; chop these pieces fine, mix them with half a cup of stale bread crumbs, a saltspoonful of salt, quail of that quantity of pepper and the yelk of a raw ogg; use this force meat to stuff the onions; lay them on a baking dish, brush them with. the white of the egg beaten a little, dust them with fine bread crumbs and bake them slowly for forty minutes. Serve them hot. Potato Dumplings.—Pecel some potatoes and grate them into a basin of water; let the pulp remain in the water for a couple of hours, drain it off, and mix with it half its weight of flour; season with pepper, salt and chopped onions. If not moist enough add a little water. Roll into dumplings the size of a large apple, sprinkle them well with flour, and throw them into boiling water. When you observe them rising to the top of the saucepan, they will be boiled enough. An Appetizing Entree.—Take cold boiled cabbage, chop it fine; for a medium-sized pudding dish full add two well-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, three tablespoonfuls of cream, with pepper and salt ad libitum. Butter the pudding dish, put the cabbage in and bake unJl brown. This may be eaten cold, but it is much better if served hot. It is especially good with roast pork or pork chops. Fried Caaliflower.—Pick out all the green leaves from a cauliflower and cut off the stalk close. Put 1t, head downward, into a saucepan full of boiling, salted water. Do not over boil it. Drain it on a sieve, pick it out into small sprigs, and place them in a deep dish with plenty of vinegar, pepper and salt. When they have laid about an Lour in this, drain them, dip them in batter, and fry in hot lard to a golden color, Irish Stew.—This is the stew that is mostly made in Ireland. Put some slices of boiled corned beef (never fresh) intu a stewpan with a good deal of water, or thin stock, two large onions sliced, and some cold boiled potatoes (whole) and a little pepper. Stew gently until the potatoes are quite soft and have taken up nearly all the gravy; some will break; but they should be as whole as possible. Turn all out on a flat dish and serve. To Cook Spinach.—Boil spinach in the ordinary way; drain it and get off all the water; chop it just as finely as possible—it cannot be divided too much. Take a small onion, slice it very fine and brown it in butter; chop this fine and mix it with the spinach; have a teacup of milk, a tablespoonful of flour, a dessertspoonful of butter, some salt and pepper; stir in the spinach and cook about ten minutes. Tomato Pie.—Pcel and slice enough green tomatoes to fill one pie; to this allow four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of butter, and three and a half of sugar, flavor with nutmeg, bake with two crusts very slowly. If you choose you may stew the tomatoes first, and then there is no danger of the pie being too juicy. Excellent Way to Cook Tomatoes.—A delicious dish (especially suit- able with cutlets, steaks, broiled ham, or anything served without gravy) may be made by cutting tomatoes into thin slices, and grilling them over & * OOOKING RECIPES. 297 sharp fire for ten minutes, or thereabouts; they should then be coated with a mixture of bread crumbs, fresh bu*ter, mustard, salt, pepper and sugar ms according to taste), and returned to the gridiron, or put into a hot oven to cri } Baked e of the most satisfactory ways to cook beets is to bake them; when boiled, even if their jackets are left on, a great deal of the best part of the beet is dissolved and 80 lost. It will, of course, take a little longer to bake than to boil them, but this is no objection; allow from fifteen to twenty minutes more for baking; slice them and eat as you would if they were boiled. One nice way to serve them is to chop them fine. After they are cooked season with pepper, salt and butter. Lille Cabbage.— Wash a large cabbage, cut it in inch pieces, rejecting the stalk, and drain it in a colander. Meantime peel and chop an onion, fry it for one minute in two tablespoonfuls of drippings of butter, add the cab- bage, with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful each of pep- per and grated nutmeg, cover it, and simmer it for twenty minutes, stirring it frequeptly to prevent burning. Serve it hot. Vegetable Hash.—Chop, not very fine, the vegetables left from a boiled dinner, and season them with salt and pepper. To each quart of the chopped vegetables add half a cup of stock and one tablespoonful of butter. Heat slowly in the frying-pan. Turn into a hot dish when done, and serve immediately. If vinegar is liked, two or more tablespoonfuls of it can be stirred into the hash while it is heating. Baked Cabbage.—Boil a firm head for fifteen minutes, then change the water for more boiling water; boil till tender, drain and set aside to cool. Mince some boiled ham; mix with bread crumbs; add pepper, one table- spoonful of butter, and two eggs well beaten, and three tablespoonfuls of — ' milk; chop cabbage very fine; mix all together, and bake in a pudding-dish till brown. Serve hot. Succotash.—Cut the corn from eight or ten cobs; mix this with one-third the quantity of Lima beans, and cook one hour in just enough water to cover them. Drain off most of the water; add a cup of milk, with a pinch of soda stirred in. When this boils, stir in a great spoonful of butter rolled in flour, season with pepper and salt, and simmer ten minutes longer. Potatoes a la Duchesse.—Take some cold, boiled potatoes, cut them into rounds, cutting with a cake cutter wet with cold water. Grease the bottom of a baking-pan and set the rounds in it in rows, but not touching one another, and bake quickly, first brushing them all over—except, of course, on the bottom—with beaten egg. When they commence to brown, lay a napkin, folded, upon a hot dish and range them regularly upon it. Macaroni Cheese.—Boil two ounces of macaroni, then drain it well. Put into a saucepan one ounce of butter; mix it well with one tablespoonful of flour; moisten with four tablespoonfuls of veal stock and a gill of cream; add two ounces of grated cheese, some mustard, salt and cayenne to taste, put in the macaroni and serve as soon as it is well mixed with the sauce and quite hot. Stewed Mushrooms.—Slice the mushrooms into halves. Stew ten min- utes in a little butter seasoned with pepper and salt and a very little water, a Te ee ae 298 THE HOUSEHOLD. Drain, put the mushrooms into a pie dish; break enough eggs to cover them 4 over the top; pepper, salt and scatter bits of butter over them; stew with . bread crumbs and bake until the eggs are set. Serve in the dish. Stewed Carrots. —Boil the carrots until they are hal e, then scrape and cut into thick slices; put them into a stewpan with at ch milk as will hardly cover them; a very little salt and pepper, and a small quantity of chopped parsley; simmer them until they are perfectly tender, but not broken. When nearly done add a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve hot, Potato Croquettes.—Take six boiled potatoes, pass them through a sieve; add to them three tablespoonfuls of ham, grated or minced finely, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste, and some chopped parsley; work into this mixture the yelks of three or.four eggs, then fashion it into the shae of balls, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard, and serve with fried parsley. : ; 4 Imitation Duck.—Boil two voniong, until nearly soft; then chop them fine, and mix with pieces of stalé bread,crusts that have been soaked awhile . in cold water or milk. Adda little powdered sage, some pepper and some salt. Grease a baking tin, put the mixture in, and strew over the top some grated bread and bits of butter: Bake it for half an hour and serye for breakfast, or a side dish at dinner. © Potatoes Fried Whole.—When nearly boiled enough, put small po- tatoes into a stewpan with butter, or beef dripping; shake them about to revent burning, till they are brown and crisp; drain them from the fat. It will be an improvement if they are floured and dipped in the yelk of an egg, “and then rolled in finely-sifted bread crumbs. This is the ordinary French -*methed. Scalloped Squash.—Boil and mash the squash in the customary way and let it cool; beat the yelks of two eggs, and when the squash is nearly cold, whip these into it, with three tablespoonfuls of milk, one of butter rolled in flour and melted into the milk; pepper and salt to taste; pour into a buttered bake-dish; cover with fine crumbs, and bake to a light brown in a quick oven. To be eaten hot. : ey ee Potato Pie.—Peel and grate one large white potato into a dish, add the juice and rind of one lemon, the beaten white of one egg, one teacup of white sugar, one cup cold water; pour this into a nice under crust and bake; when done have ready the beaten whites of three eggs, half cup powdered sugar, flayor with lemon, spread on the pie and return to the oven to harden. A Delicious Dish.—Take a large fresh cabbage and cut out the heart. Fill the place with stuffing, or veal chopped very fine, and higily seasoned, rolled into balls with yelk of egg. Then tie the cabbage firmly together and boil in a kettle for two hours. “It makes a,yery delicious dish, and it is often useful for using small pieces of meat. Haricot Beans.—Soak half a pint of the small white beans over night in just enough cold water to eover them; the next day boil two hours, strain and put in a pie-dish with one-half ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of finely- chopped parsley, previously fried; cover with slices of raw bacon, and bake ~ a quarter of an hour, . a COOKING RECIPES 299 _—s-—“ Botatoes Fried with Butter.—Nicely wash and paré some floury po- tatoes; cut each into any form you fancy, such as a large lozenge, etc.; then thinly slice the Bi that the pieces may be of a uniform shape; dip them into either a sweet or savory batter, fry them in plenty of butter, and serve them quite hot, either salt or pounded loaf-sugar strewn upon them. Scalloped Tomatoes.—Pare and slice; scatter fine crumbs in the bot- tom of a bake-dish; cover with slices of tomatoes, seasoned with sugar, pep- per, salt and butter; cover with crumbs and then with tomatoes; fill the dish in this order, covering all with crumbs, with bits of butter sprinkled upon them. Bake, covered, half an hour, and brown. Celery Sauce.—Pick and wash two heads of celery, cut them into pieces an inch long, and stew them in a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt until _the celery is tender. Rub a large tablespoonful of butter and a 1 of __ flour well together; stir this into a pint of cream, put in the celery, and let it boil up once. Serve hot with boiled poultry. d Potatoes._The French method of cooking potatoes affords a agreeable dish. The potatoes are peeled, wiped, and cut into thin , and thrown into a frying-pan containing an abundance of hot lard. _ _ As soon as they become brown and crispy, they are thrown in a colander to = ‘drain them; then sprinkle with salt, and serve hot. 7 ae anions and Tomatses.—A side dish, which will be new to many cooks, _.___ is made by slicing very thin some onions and green tomatoes, in about equal > orti and frying them together just as you fry onions alone, Salt _ them well, and, if there is any danger of their being greasy, drain before serving. a Sauce Robert.—Put two medium-sized onions, chopped very fine, with large lump of butter, in a stew-pan; let them brown well, constantly stir- a4 ring; add a teaspoonful of flour mixed with half a pint of good stock; salt __ and pepper; cook about five minutes; add a teaspoonful of mixed mustard b= ee and one of vinegar. _ -—-,- Tomato and Onion Omelet.—Take equal parts of sliced onions and tomatoes, peeled aud freed from pips, chop them both coarsely. Fry the onions in butter. When cooked, without being colored, add the tomatoes, with pepper and salt, and stir the mixture on the fire. Make a plain omelet in the usual way, and insert this in the fold on dishing it. Scalloped Onions.—Boil, till tender, six large onions. Take them up, drain and separate them; puta layer of bread or biscuit-erumbs in a pud- ding-dish, then a layer of onions alternately, until the dish is full. Season with pepper and salt, add a little butter, moisten with milk, and brown half an hour in the oven. : Baked Cauliflower.—Put cauliflower to soak in salted water for an hour or more; look over carefully; remove the hard stalks and leaves; _ scald for five minutes; cut into ‘pieces and put into a pie-dish; add a littlé milk, and season with pepper, salt and butter; cover the whole with dry grated cheese and bake. _ Green Corn-Cakes.—Cut the corn from the cob and stir it into a graham batter made with sweet milk; fry, and serve hot with melted butter, 300 THE HOUSEHOLD. Scalloped Potatoes.—Pare the potatoes, cover the bottom of a baking- dish with bread crumbs, then add a layer of sliced potatoes, then bits of butter, salt and pepper, fill the dish with the alternate layers, wet the whole with milk, and bake the whole for an hour and a half. Lima Beans with Cream.—Put a pint of the shelled beans into just’ enough boiling salted water to cover them, and boil them tender; then drain off the water; add a cup of boiling milk (or better, cream), a little piece of butter, pepper and salt. Let the beans simmer a minute in the milk before serving. Corn with Tomatoes.—Cut the corn from the cob and put it with an equal quantity of tomatoes that have been sliced and peeled; stew these together for half an hour; then season to taste with salt and pepper and a little sugar; stir in a liberal piece of butter and simmer a few minutes longer. Browned Potatoes.—Steam or boil small-sized potatoes, peel and place them in a stewpan with some melted butter, shake occasionally, and when all are well browned serve upon thin slices of toast which have been dipped in Chili sauce that has been thinned with a little weak vinegar. Tomato Sauce.—Pare, slice and stew the tomatoes for twenty minutes. Strain and rub through a colander, leaving the hard and tough parts behind. Put into a sauce-pan with a little minced onion, parsley, pepper, salt and sugar. Bring to a boil; stir in a good spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Boil up and serve. Baked Tomatoes for Breakfast.—Take a quart of cold stewed toma- toes, beat into it two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, a tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, a little more salt and pepper, and bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven. Potato Snow.—Take large white potatoes and boil them in their skins until tender, drain and dry them near the fire, and peel; put a hot dish before the fire and rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve into it; do not touch afterwards or the flakes will fall; serve immediately. Potato Puffs.—Take any outside slices of cold meat, chop and season wiih pepper, salt and cut pickles. Mash potatoes, making them into paste with an egg; roll cut with a dust of flour; cut round with a saucer. Put the seasoned meat on one-half and fold like a puff. Fry a light brown. Potato Fritters.—Grate six cold boiled potatoes, add to them one pint of cream or new milk, and flour enough to make as stiffa batter as for other fritters, the yelk of three eggs, then the beaten whites, salt, and fry in sweet butter. Fried Egg Plant.—Pcel and parboil five minutes, cut slices crosswise, season with pepper and salt, roll the slices in the beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs (or they may be dipped in batter); fry a light brown in hot - lard. Horseradish Sauce.—Grate the horseradish, boil an egg hard, pound the yelk, and add to the above a little raw cream, mustard and vinegar added the last thing. It must all be mixed cold and then heated. nt) COOKING RECIPES. ‘a1 Potate Balls.—Mash boiled potatoes; add butter, size of an egg, two spoonfuls of milk, a little salt; stir it well; roll with your hands into balls; roll them in egg and crumbs; fry them in hot fat, or brown in the oven. To Prepare Potatoes for BDreakfast.— 7 Pe ee ee ee re _—- i Bs COOKING RECIPES. $47 Peppermint Drops.—The best peppermint drops are made by sifting finely powdered loaf sugar in lemon juice, sufficient to make it of a proper consistence; then, gently drying it over the fire a few minutes, and stirring in about fifteen drops of oil of peppermint for each ounce of sugar, dropping them from the point of a knife. Some persons, irstead of using lemon juice, merely mix up the sugar and oil of peppermint with the whites of eggs; beating the whole well together, dropping it on white paper, and drying the drops gradually before the fire, at a distance. Pop-Corn Balls.—Take a three-gallon pan and fill it nearly level full of popped corn, and then take a cup of molasses and a little piece of butter and boil until it will set, or try it in cold water; just a drop will do in water, and if it sets, then pour the molasses all around on the corn. Then take a large iron spoon and stir well; when well mixed, butter your hands well and take corn in both hands, as much as you can press well together, and you will have a large and splendid ball. You can use sugar in the place of molasses if you wish it. To Sugar or Crystallize Pop Corn.—Pnt into an iron kettle one table- spoonful of water, and one teacup of white sugar; boil until ready to candy, then throw in three quarts of corn nicely popped; stir briskly until the candy is evenly distributed over the corn; set the kettle from the fire, and stir until it is cooled a little and you have each grain separate and crys- tallized with the sugar; care should be taken not to have too hot a fire lest you scorch the corn when crystallizing. Nuts of any kind prepared this way Walnut Candy.—The meats of hickory nuts, English walnuts, or black walnuts may be used according to preference in that regard. After removal from the shells in as large pieces as practicable, they are to be placed on bottom of tins, previously greased, to the depth of about a half inch. Next boil two pounds of brown sugar, a half pint of water and one gill of good molasses until a portion of the mass hardens when cooled. Pour the hot candy on the meats and allow it to remain until hard. Almond Candy.—Take one pound of sugar and about half a pint of water; put in part of the white of an egg to clarify the sugar; let this boil a few minutes, and remove any scum that rises. When the sugar begins to candy drop in the dry almonds; first, however, you should blanch the nuts by pouring hot water over them, and letting them stand in it a few minutes; then the skin will slip off readily. Spread the candy on buttered plates to cool. Sugar Taffy.—One pound sugar put ina pan with half tumbler cold water, add one teaspoonful'cream tartar, lump of butter size of hickory nut, one teaspoonful vinegar (do not stir at all}, boil slowly twenty-five minutes, and drop a little into cold water, and if crispy it is done; turn on to plates and pour on flavoring—lemon and vanilla, half each—pull till very white. Butter Scotch.—Take two cups of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of water, piece of butter the size of an egg. Boil without stirring until it hardens on aspoon.. Pour out on buttered plates to cool. Chocolate Candy.—One cup brown sugar, one cup white, one cup molasses, one cup milk, one cup chocolate, butter the size of a walnut. . 48 THE HOUSEHOLD. Lemon Drops.—Squeeze the juice of six lemons into a basin; pound some lump sugar, and sift it through a fine sieve, mix it with the lemon juice, and make it so thick that you can hardly stir it. Put it into a stew pan, and stir it over the fire for five minutes, then drop cut of a teaspoon on writing paper, and let it stand till cold. Candied Lemon Peel.—Pecl some fine lemons, with all the inner pulp,” in halves or quarters; have ready a very strong syrup of white sugar and water; put the peels into it, and keep them boiling till the syrup is nearly reduced. Take shem out and set them tv dry with the outer peel down- ward. Cocoanut Candy.—Grate the meat of a cocoanut, and, having ready swo pounds of finely sifted sugar (white) and the beaten whites of two eggs, also the milk of the nut, mix together and make into little cakes, In a short time the candy will be dry enough to eat. Candied Orange Peel.—Make a very strong syrup of white sugar and water; take off the peels from several oranges in halves or quarters, and boil them in the syrup till it is nearly reduced. After this take them out and set them to dry with the outer skin downward. Vanilla Candy.—Three teacups of white or coffee sugar, one and a half teacups unskimmed sweet milk to dissolve it; boil till done, and flavor with vanilla; after it cools a little, stir until hard and eat when you please. - LADIES’ FANCY WORK. Work Table Cover.—This cover if of fawn-colored cloth, ornamented elaborately on the ends in application embroidery. The design figures, which look dark in the illustration, are applied in broken cloth; on the mid- die of each leaf of the large mid- dle application figure apply a “piece of dark- * brown velvet. Edge all the ap- plied figures with fawn-col- ored soutache, and ornament the pieces of vel- vet besides in point Russe em< broidery with fawn colored saddlers’ silk. For the lines of the design sew on brown sou- tache in two shades. The cover is bor- dered with light brown open silk fringe an inch and a quarter - wide. Brown percale lining. Imitation Coral Hang- ing Baskets.— Take old hoops with the cover- ing on; bend and tie in any shape desired; tie with wrapping-twine, with ends of the twine left one-fourth of an inch long; cover the basket when formed with knots or ties about one inch apart all over the basket. Then take one half pound of beeswax, melt it in a shallow pan, stir in enough § Japanese vermihon to get the color you wish, then roll the basket in the melted wax until it is covered completely. We have one made in this way, that has hung exposed to the weather for two years, and is still as good as new. WORK TABLE COVER. 850 : THE HOUSEHOLD. A Pretty Tidy.—The requisites are a ball of number fourteen tidy cot- ton, and a wooden frame about twenty inches square, with an inch sprig FIG. 1.—BLACKBERRY. driven half down in the cen- ter of each corner, and simi- lar ones along the sides in line with these, and an inch apart. Fasten your cotton to the second side sprig, and weaye from this sprig to the one di- rectly opposite, passing round each sprig three or four times; then draw the thread to the next sprig and weave in the same manner. Continue this until you reach the second sprig from the side you are working toward. Now cross these threads in the same way from the other two sides, then cross with the same number of threads diagonally in both directions. You will then have in your frame four warps, each in different directions. With a needle and tidy cotton securely fasten as they are every place where four sets of threads in- tersect, drawing the cotton from one to another. Cut the cotton at every sprig, and it is finished, except trimming the fringe a little. Made in this way they are serviceable, and less work than you would think. Embroidery Designs. —We give a design from natural forms (Fig. 1) to which the artist has added an imaginative edge, al- though that has the outlines of some leaf forms. For fine delicate needlework in pure white this forms a most graceful design. But, where embroidered in the colors natural to the leaves and fruits, on a boy’s or girl’s jacket, stand cloth or ottoman cover, on cloth of scarlet or gray, is pretty enough for the most fastidi- ous. Moreover, this leads you to observe and study SES FIG. 2—INITIAL LETTER. these things, which from your life-long intimacy with them may have failed to specially interest you. For an initial letter for the corner of a handkerchief, we give two designs _ (Figs. 2 and 3), which serve the treble purpose of use, ornament, and mem=- bw LADIES’ FANCY WORE. 351 ory of delicions fruits. For a gentleman’s handkerchief, nothing can be in better taste than his initials wrought in such becoming drapery. And so through the whole alphabet you can weave something synonymous from nature about each letter. Such work flavors of botany, which is a science everybody should study. Aside from its being a most delightful study in itself, it is the key to a marvelous world of infinite and ever-varying delights; it keeps you from going through life with your eyes blinded; it tends to make you gentle, large-hearted and thankful. These forms will, or ought to, stimulate your pencil for drawing. Drawing cultivates your eye as noth- ing else will. It educates your hand; it civilizes you generally. Make a sketch of anything, and it will ever after possess a new interest. You tread on a thousand forms of vegeta- tion every day> Can you make a drawing of one? The fine drawing we give would be a nice design for a center of a pillow sham. Persian Rug: Meade at Home.—tit is easy enough after : you once know how, and, for that matter, so is everything you undertake. To make a rug you will need plenty of perse- verance, for it is a large con- tract to make one of ordinary size; but it is very pretty work, and can be done with ease by even those ladies whose failing eyesight compels them to give up the various fascinating forms of fancy work, which are too apt to prove a tax to the best of eyes. Purchase from come carpet dealer a supply of scraps of tapestry Brussels carpeting; pieces that are too small to be worked up into hassocks are FIG. 3.—INITIAL LETTER. quite large enough for the purpose. Cut these into strips of any length their size allows; but let them be of uniform width, say three inches. Ravel these all out, rejecting the linen, and collecting in a box the little crimped worsted threads. Then provide yourself with a pair of the largest-sized steel knitting-needles, and a ball of the coarsest crochet cotton, either white or colored. Seton ten stitches, and after knitting a row or two to make a firm beginning, go on 2s if you were making a garter, but with every other stitch lay a thread of the crimped wool across the needles. After knitting the stitch, take the end of wool which showa upon the wrong side, and turn it coward the right side, knitting a stitch above to secure it. Then pnt in another thread of wo! and repeat the process. The back of the strips should have something the appearance of that of a body Brussels carpet, while the front shold be like a sort of thick, long napped plush. The colors may be used without sclection, making a sort of chene effect; or carpets may be 852 THE HOUSEHOLD. chosen for raveling which show only shades of scarlet or blue; or brown carpets may be used for the center of the rug, and a border of scarlet or blue sewed on all around. After doing a little of this work, many ideas as to arrangement of colors will suggest themselves, and a little practice will en- able the knitter to produce some very pleasing results. When the strips are all finished they must be sewed together at the back: It is only for convenience that they are knitted in strips—the rug, as a whole, would be very cumbersome and unwieldy to handle. Some ladies edge a Brussels or velvet carpet hearth-rug with a strip of this knitting, thus giving a very pretty finish. Small mats for placing in front of bureaus are also very pretty made upon the same plan. Work Basket.—The basket is of fine wicker-work, the sides are lined with gathered satin, and the bottom with embroidered plush}; both are fin- WORK BASKET. ished with silk cord. The outside is ornamented with fringe of crewels of various colors. Handles of cord. Crochet Macrame Tidy.— Use seine cord No. 8. Crochet 57 chain stitches. ist row.—Put thread over hook and crochet in first loop, and so on until you have made 9 single shell stitches. Crochet 7 chain, shell 9, chain 7, shell 9, chain 7, shell 9. 2d row.—Turn, chain 3, shell 9 on top of the last made in the first row, chain 9, shell 9, chain 9, shell 9, chain 9, shell 9. 3d row.—Turn, chain 3, then same as last row only making 7 chain in- stead of 9. ; 4th row.—Turn, chain 3, shell 9, chain 5, place the hook in the fifth stitch of the chain in the 2d row; secure the chain of 7 in with it, chain 4, shell 9, and so on to the end of the row. Begin again at the beginning and crochet the desired length, Finish all around with scallop, with frmge across the lower edge. Run satin ribbon through the openings to match your room, a ie LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 353 A Home-Made Hassock.—Hassocks, or footstools, are coryenient ior many purposes. Well, let me tell you how easily you can make one out of articles that one considers only lumber, and are often at a loss to know what to do with. Take seven tin fruit cans, put one in the middle, and the other six around it; draw around this a band of unbleached muslin and fasten it so as to keep them firmly in place; set them on a piece of paper and cut a pattern of the bottom, which then cut in heavy pasteboard. Cover this with gray paper muslin for the bottom, as it slips better than anything else. Cut jut of cretonne a similar-shaped piece for the top, also a band to fit the sides; cord the top piece around the edge, and sey on the band. Stuff the cans with hay or excelsior, and let it be good and thick on top of the cans, also, as it will pack in a little while. Draw your cretonne over it, and sew firmly to the bottom, and you have your hassock to use on the porch in summer, or as a footstool before the fire. It is strong as well as very light, and can be moved éasily with the foot. Pillow Sham.—Made of linen. The edges cut out like design, turned in and basted, then the lace overhanded on, making sure to have it full enough on the points; cut a long buttonhole in the end of each point, and run colored ribbons through. It is easily made and the effect is very pretty, | Clothes Brush Holder. of a cone; it is ornamented with an embroidered drape, which may either THE HOUSEHOLD. The basket is of very fine wicker, in the form be finished with a narrow furniture gimp or tufts of crewel; the bottom is covered with silk, which is drawn to a point at the end and finished by a tassel; the top is ornamented with two woolen tassels and a rosette. Table Covers, Ete.—A rich and handsome cover may be made of aida canvas, either square P or in scarf style, with a wine-colored plush square in the center, fastened on with feather stitching in yellow floss. The edge of canvas should be raveled outand knotted into fringe, about three inches from which feather-stitch a band of plush, and above this may be a design worked in crewels ifit is a scarf, or, if square, in each corner. Crazy silk patch- work ” bands are much used for decorating ta- ble covers, curtains and chair covers. The pieces must be small and of elegant silk, satin and velvet. A simple and pretty table cover for a bed- room lamp-stand may be made of pale blue canton flannel trimmed with antique lace or with black velvet rib- bon, feather-stitched on with yellow floss, and the edge finished with a fringe of blue worsted tied in. One similar to this made of cardinal all-wool canvas or basket flannel is pretty for the sitting-room. Neat and pretty bureau or wash stand covers are made of scrim or dotted muslin in scarf shape, trimmed with deep lace and lined with pink or blue silesia. Serviceable and pretty covers for the sofa pillow and chair cushions in the sitting-room are NO. 1.—CLOTHES BRUSH HOLDER. No. 2.—BACK OF No. 1. made of the striped or plaid turkish towels, which are so inexpensive and yet pleasing to the eye, The prettiest pillow shams used are those made of four a "ys" ah EE EE LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 355 small hem-stitched handkerchiefs, joined with lace insertion, finished witha _ , - frill oflace, and lined to match the other appointments of the room. They need not be made of expensive handkerchiefs; the thinner the better. For- tunate are those who possess one of those large wicker or rattan chairs, as they may be decorated so hand- somely with colored satin ribbon, run in and tied in bows, or a handsome scarf about twelve inches wide, and long enough to hang over the back and go down the back and-seat, and hang over the seat a little. It may be made ofa strip of plush in the center, and a strip of embroidery in crewel work on felt, satin, momie cloth or canvas of some contrast- ing color, or worsted work. Line and join the seams with fancy stitches in silk, Z and finish the ends with f 3 fringe. Another handsome J decoration of 2 rocker would be a cushion covered with plush or embroidered can- vas. Put a puff of satin around the edge, and cover the seam with small che- nille cord. A pillow roil for the head-rest at the back should be made to match, and tied on with ribbons. Double-faced canton flannel in wine color and olive green is much used for lambre- quins, table covers, curtains for archways and double- doorways, and also for win- dows, but it may fade when brought insuchclose contact with the sun and light. The trimming is usually a band of old gold, feather-stitched on, and the edge is finished with fringe or a hem. Hanging Casket.— The basket is wicker-work, HANGING BASKET. and the band at the top is of light blue cloth four inches deep, with a scalloped piece a darker shade ever it. The long stitches on the dark cloth are of the lightest shade of blue alk, with a silver thread running with it. Through the wickers run satip 356 THE HOUSEHOLD. ribbon. Combine the two shades of blue in the tassels, with the silver wound round the tops of them. Heavy cord and tassels to hang it up by. The same design of trimming will answer for any shaped basket. Ornamental Scrap Bag or Basket.—This basket, to hang against the wall, is composed of cardboard, covered with gray linen, embroidered with brown wool, and fastened in a cane stand. Cut out first a piece of card- board for the back and the bottom, and five piecés for the front. Bind them with a crossway strip of gray linen, cover them with gray linen, and work on the outside with brown wool the design in point russe, the stitches being taken through the cardboard. Then line the pieces with linen aud sew them ORNAMENTAL SCRAP BAG, together. Next prepare five pieces of thin cane, four and one-half inches _ long, for the edges of the back, and five four and one-half inches long, five ~ four inches long, and six five inches long, for the front of the basket. At one-half inch from the ends cut a little hollow in the canes, and then fit — them to each other and tie them together, first with strong thr ead and then with brown ribbon, according to illustration, and secure the basket into the stand. For the cover, cuta piece of car dboard according to the shape of the upper part of the back, doubled. Cut it in half through along the center, cover the side on which you made the incision with linen, and work on one- — half of the design seen in illustration to the back of the basket, double the cover, sew the edge of the linen together, and sew on 9 gord, ~ LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 85? léaving a loop in the middle. Two brass rings sewn at the back serve to hang up the basket. Toilet Pin- cushion.—— The foundation i8 a square of lining about seven inches, stuffed with sawdust; itis covered with plain satin; satin rib- bon of a contrast- ing color is folded into points, and disposed accord- TOILET PINCUSHION, ing to design; tassels ornament the corners; a square of fine Irish linen, six NEEDLE CUSHION. inches when hemmed (the hem one inch deep), is placed corner- wise over the cushion; this square is ornamented with drawn threads and cross-stitch em- broidery in silk the color of the satin. Needle Cushion.—We give a design for a needle cushion, the frame of which can be made of rustic work.. The feet can be connected by a chain, as the sketch indicates. The cushion can be filled with emery and or- namented with any kind of needle-work that may suit the 2 gl The edge may be ornamented with fringe, gimp, or other conyenient and suitable material. Pen Wiper.—Twelve disks of cloth of various colors are edged with crystal beads. The rounds may be of any size wished, accord- ing as the pen wiper is required, large or small. They are then folded in four, and fastened to- gether in the center with a few stitches of strong silk. Wheat Ear Edging.—Cast on five stitches. 1. Two plain stitches; thread over, one plain, thread over twice and purl two together. 2. Thread over twice, PEN WIPER. purl two together, four plain, 3, Knit three plain, thread over one, plain, % 858 THE HOUSEHOLD. thread over twice, purl two together. 4. Over twice, purl two together, fivé plain. 5. Knit four plain, over, one plain, over twice, purl two together. 6. Over twice, purl two together, six plain. 7. Knit six plain, thread over twice, purl two together. 8. Over twice, purl five together, three plain; then commence again at first row. Music Portfolio and Stand.—This stand, as we illustrate it, is made of turned wood, with a portfolio made of pasteboard, covered with a design of needle-work. Music stands of this sort are very convenient, as every musical family knows; but such a stand can be made as well, look as appro- MUSIC PORTFOLIO AND STAND. priate and perhaps more ornamental, if made of rustic work. The woods, and often even the wood-pile, will afford abundant material for its manufae- ture, and when made by ingenious and loving hands, renders it, though o* homely and inexpensive materials, nearly priceless in value. Basket for Fruit.—Pretty baskets for serving large fruit for luncheon are easily made. Take four pieces of cardboard and cover with any material preferred, and on each piece work or paint the flower of the fruit which the basket wil) contain. Fasten the pieces together by a knotted cord, Over the fruit throw a square of delicate macrame lace, t a i e LADIES’ PANCY WORK. 859 A Lesson in Decorating.—Choose a plain, smooth, red-clay flower-pot. Tf itis rather stupid-looking all the better. With four box of water-color paints, lay broad bands of dull blue around top and bottom. If you prefer, you can paint the intervening strip black, instead of leaving it red, and the bands may be divided by a narrow line of yellow. Now you are ready for the pictures. If you possess some sheets of little scrap-chromos, you will soon be rid of your task. Select some very odd, grotesque ones, that will surprise each other as much as possible—a huge butterfly, tiny Madonna, reptiles, sprays, zebras, and the like. Paste them on in the most disorderly order you can imagine, and your work is complete. Another method is to cut from picture papers a quantity of small designs, being careful to trim them very neatly. Paint these all black, and lay on a dull red or blue ground. Whichever plan you choose, be careful and not decorate too pro- fusely, as that would be quite unlike the Japanese, while it would hint most strikingly of a merry, mischievous little girl. Fancy,Card Basket.—The foundation of this basket is of wire, and it is lined with quilted satin. The drapes are of cloth pinked at the edges and embroidered with silk. FANCY CARD BASKET. Antique Lace.—Casi on fifteen stitches. 1. Knit three, over, narrow, knit three, over, knit one, over, knit six. 2. Knit six, over, knit three, over, narrow, knit three, over, narrow, knit one. 3. Knit three, over, narrow, narrow again, over, knit five, over, knit six. 4. Cast off four, knit one, over, narrow, knit three, narrow, over, narrow, knit one, over, narrow, knit one. 5. Knit three, over, narrow, knit one, over, narrow, knit one, narrow, over, knit three. 6. Knit three, over, knit one, over, slip two, knit one, pass the slipped stitches over the knitted one, over, knit four, over, narrow, knit one, begin again from the first row. How to Make a Sereen.—The accompanying illustration is that of a beautiful but expensive screen, which, however, may serve as a guide in the making of a much cheaper one. The frame-work of this is of carved wood, the screen itself of embroidered silk, covered with sheer white muslin, with 860 PHE HOUSEHOLD: a plaited edge, which is put over the silk for protéction. The height and width of a screen may vary, of course, according to the size of the heater or grate; and may consist of one piece as iit the illustration, or of two, tliree; or half a dozen, joined by by hinges and resembling the eon firuction of cloth bars. Black walnut is a handsome wood of which to make the ‘frame, which may be fashioned plainly or orna- mented to one’s taste; but if that be to expensive, a cheaper wood may be employed, and stained to imitate something better. Cherry is again growing into great favor, ih and nothing could be prettier than ELC ELALELEL LG VAN a frame made of that. ‘ AL For the shade or screen proper a great variety of materials may be used. For convenience, make a light frame (like those over =a which mosquito netting is drawn SSS eee for windows), which will neatly ? SCREEN. fit imside the other; over this stretch smoothly and nail a piece of strong muslin or canvas, a8 the ground work for the ornamentation; in lien of this tin might be used; wood is too much warped by the action of the heat. The canvas may be covered with gay-colored chintz, at twelve and a half cents per yard, or handsome cretonne at sixty cents, or brocaded silk, painted satin, oralarge fine printor engraving or embroid- ered cardboard or canvas—almost anything one’s fancy may devise. A very showy screen recently seen on exhibition had a black background on which was pasted all sorts, sizes, colors, and kinds of cheap prints, carefully cut out and applied without any regularity of design, and then the whole heavily varnished. The effect was very gay and sparkling. Pressed ferns and autumn leaves, artistically arranged on a white or light background, or even black look finely; the back of the leaves should be well touched with mucilage, so as to adhere firmly. Fora black background, velveteen, or plain black paper, to be had where wall paper is sold, are good. Slipper Case.—Cut two pieces of card- SLIPPER CASE. board the size desired; cover them with ‘ momie cloth. Then cut of cardboard a smaller piece for the pocket; cover it on one side with the cloth, and fasten it in the center of one of the large pieces; then finish where it is joimed with a worsted cord, Ovyerhand the LADI£S' PANCY WORK. 861 tie large pieces together, and sew the cord all around the edge. To hang it, sew on two large brass rings at the back of the two top-side scallops. A Handsome Lace Spread.—With forethought and some money one can easily make a beautiful set of pillow shams and spreads without any great expense. From time to time buy, as you see those which please you and are cheap, squares of antique lace; they come in all kinds of pretty de- signs. Choose those of uniform size and of the same quality. When you have enough set them together with a stripe of satin. Remnants of satin can be purchased sometimes at very low figures. For a border, catch the squares together diagonally and fit it in half squares of the satin. Put the edge of the lace squares over the satin, haying first taken the precaution to overcast very delicately the edges of the satin. The spread may be lined or not, as you please. The pillow covers should be made to match. With proper care a set of this kind will last a long time, and when one considers the com- fort of always having a handsome cover- ing for the bed at hand to dress it up for great occasions, the outlay of time and money does not appear to have been wasted. Hanging Card-Receiver and Watch Case.—Take two pieces of card, ten inches long and three and one-half inches wide, and cut the ends pointed as the design shows. Cover both pieces with velvet or silk, and embroider a vine of flowers on one end, or if preferred paint in water colors. Overhand the two pieces together and finish the edge with gilt cord. Make a ring of twisted cord at the top. Bend the card up at three inches to form the rack, and fasten at the sides with cord and tassels. Twist a large hook with gilt wire and sew an inch below the ring at the top, for the watch. To Prepare Skeleton Leaves.—A 4np-RECEIVER AND WATCH CASE. ready method of preparing skeleton leaves is the following: Make a solution of concentrated lye in hot water, in the proportion of about two ounces of lye to a quart of water; or, if this is not convenient, prepare the lye by dissolving four ounces of common wash- ing soda in a quart of waier, adding about two ounces of fresh quick lime, boiling for about a quarter of an hour, and when cool decanting the liquid from the sediment. Place the leaves in this solution, and allow it to boil for about an hour, or until by trial the pulpy part of one of the leaves allows itself to be readily removed. When this is the case, the leaves are carefully removed, one by one, floated on a sheet of glass, and the pulp is removed by gently tapping or beating with a painter’s stiff brush, or the like, taking care not to apply a rubbing motion, which would destroy the fibres as well. From time to time the disintegrated pulp should be washed away by allow- ing a stream of water to flow on the glass. When this operation has been 862 THE HOUSEHOLD, properly performed, nothing of the leaf remains behind but the tetwork of fibres, or the skeleton. The next step is to bleach the skeleton leaves, which is easily done by placing them in a shallow dish of water, to which a small quantity of chloride of lime has been added (say about a teaspoon- ful to a quart). In a day or two, at most, the fibres will be found bleached to a pure white, when they should be removed to a vessel cleansing, in which they should remain for an- ry other day. From this TOILET BOTTLE CASE.—FIG. 1. they should be re- moved, placed between the folds of a soft linen cloth, and allowed to dry; they are then of bad to be pressed, curled, or arranged into ornamental designs, according to fancy. Another method of disintegrating the pulp of the leaves, which is sometimes followed, is to place them in a dish of water, keeping them beneath the water by the use of a sheet of glass, and exposing them to the sun- light. The disintegration takes place slowly, requiring two weeks or thereabouts to complete it. The subse- quent operations are the same as those above described. Toilet Bottle Case.—The case is made on a circular foundation of eardboard, four inches wide, lined with black silk and covered with black cloth vandykes round the edge. The latter is embroidered in satin overcast and feather stitch (see ig. 2). The flowers are worked alternately in white and blue, the rosebuds with pink, and the wheat ears with maize silk. The branches and sprays are worked with several shades of olive and fawn- colored silk. On this foundation is sewn a cylindrical case of cardboard, two and a halfinches high, and lined within and without with black satin. Two box-plaited ruchings of satin are arranged round it, and above these is a vandyke strip of black cloth embroidered in the same designs and colors as above described. TOILET BOTTLE CASE.— FIG. 2. Parlor Ornament.—Purchase a plain Indian straw basket, one of neat manufacture and pretty shape; paint it black; this gives an effective background for the fruit designs painted on the sides and ends; line the basket with brightly tinted velvet, cover the LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 863 handle with silver or gold cord; the same should run along the edges of the opening. This dainty piece of home art forms a lovely card basket. A common straw hat, a size to fit a boy of six years, can be made into an artistic novelty. Face the brim with satin nicely pleated; fill the crown with artificial flowers; secure them from tumbling out by long loops of threads; suspend the hat from the top of a cabinet or music stand; the effect is very bright and pleasing. Industrious fingers willing to devote time to the manipulation of home decoration may shape out many lovely things from bits of silk, satin, velvet, and scraps of all wool goods. The top ofa table covered with work of this kind is very handsome, and a like decoration for a carved bracket is remarkably showy. Catch-All.—The frame-work of this article is made of pieces of cardboard sewed together The materials required for the outside are drab Holland cre- tonne, flowers, fancy braid, and worsteds to match flowers in color. A cordis £& drawn through eye- § let holes at the top of the bag, and a§ large tassel of wor- % sted finishes the bot- tom. 3 A Rosette.— Rosettes are often useful in tidies, bor- ders and the like. To make the above, begin with a chain of four stitches, and unite in a ring. In this loop work twenty trebles. - Second round.— CATCH ALL. Work one cham and one treble over each treble of the last round. Third round.—* On the treble and next chain make a leaf thus: The cotton twice round the needle, take up the stitch, work through two, cotton on the needle, draw through two; cot- ton on the needle, take up the stitch again, work through two, cotton on the needle, work through two; cotton on the needle, take up the next stitch, and work all off the needle, two loops at a time; then four chain. Repeat from *. Fourth round.—One DC on the middle of the four chain, * five chain, one DC on the middle of the next four chain; repeat from*, Fasten off neatly at the end of the round. sy if » “4 364 THE HOUSEHOLD. Ottoma::.— Materials: Wine and canary-colored cloth, heavy cord and tassels. Make a cushion of ticking a foot square, fill it tightly with curled 3 hair, then make a case of the wine-colored cloth, and in the seam round the edge of the case full in one edge of the piece to form the puff, then turn it up, and turn in the upper edge and box-plait it, and sew firmly on the top of the case, leaving a space in the center nine inches square. Cut of the light cloth a piece for the center like the design, Se and braid it with gilt, OTTOMAN. red, blue, and black braids, having the edge of the star pinked. Fasten it to the cushion in each point with a large bead, and finish each corner with a tassel. Draw the cord round the ottoman firmly, and tie in a knot, leaving a loop in the center to lift it by. Toilet or Work Basket.—Use black, polished, round wooden or bamboo rods, an inch in circumference, two thin plates of wood four inches long and two and three- fifths inches wide, white satin, green velours, shaded green, pink, purple, and brown twist silk, fine gold cord, green silk ribbon one-fifth of an inch wide, four white Venetian beads, four bronze rings, stout cardboard, small steel tacks, white sewing silk. The frame of our model is constructed of four pillar-like rods, each eight inches long, and holding between them two boxes, each consisting of eight ; wooden or bamboo rods, and & ee | thin wood bottom four inches : long, and two and three-fifths inches wide. The lower box, which is one and four-fifths inches high, requires four rods five and three-fifths inches long, TOILET OR WORK BASKET. and four rods four and one-fifth inches long. The upper box, wlich is two and one-fifth inches high, is of exactly the same size at the bottom, while for the top, which curves out- ward, the two long rods must be each six inches long, while the cross rods require a length of five and one-fifth inches, Small steel tacks connect the qv tt ing bi, LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 365 various parts, those which are arranged into squares being notched where they intersect. Each of these squares encloses a pasteboard box covered with green velours on the inside, and on the outside with white satin, deco- rated by an embroidery of colored silks. The box is fastened at the top to rods by means of overhand siitches of gold cord, making the rod appear as if twisted with the gold cord. The bows decorating the upper corners of the boxes are made of green ribbon, ten inches long, sewed to the rods in the middie and thentied. The handle, which is fastened to the upper box by means of steel tacks, and is decurated with two ribbon bows, measures fif- teen inches in length, and is to be wound about with gold cord. The four pillars are decorated at their tips by Venetian beads resting un bronze rings. Sofa Pillow.—Knitting or crochet. An exceedingly comfortable pillow to hang on a chair-back or to use when traveling is well ilinstrated in the cut herewith presented. Knit or crocheted in squares of different colors, CROCHET SOFA PILLOW OR BOLSTER. almost any stitch may be used, according to the fancy of the workers, and when staffed and finished, with cord and tassels for the ends, and hung on the back of the “ old rocking chair,” it forms no mean addition to the com- fort and ornamentation of a room. The predominant colors of the room will suggest the appropriate ones to be used, but should there be no decided color prevailing, a pillow made of alternate dark red and olive squares will be found both handsome and durable, as far as showing dust or soil from the head. Plush Mosaic.—The designs for this new and beautiful work can be pur- chased all ready prepared for use; but as many would like to try it who may find it difficult to procure them, they can, by following the given direc- tions, ent and arrange theirown. One best snited to it is a border of autumn leaves, as the rich, variegated colors can be very effectively rendered in gold, crimson, brown and green. Maple leaves are prettiest, both in form ana color, and the size should be varied, some large, others small, arrang- ing them as a border. If possible, select several of the natural leaves, and cut the exact pattern in paper. The plush may be purchased in small quan- 366 THE HOUSEHOLD. tities, an eighth of a yard of each color sufticing for a number of leaves. Lay the paper patterns on the plush and cut with a pair of sharp scissors leaves from the different colors. The groundwork is of plush; for instance, a scarf for the top of an upright piano may be of olive plush with a lining of cardinal satin, and a border of autumn leaves. These should be prettily arranged across the ends of the scarf, and each leaf basted to keep it in place. The edges are fastened down with tinsel or gold thread, and as it sinks into the soft plush, shows only a slight, glistening outline. The stems should be worked with silk matching the different shades of the leaves. The veining of the leaves is also worked with the same color of silk, and as it makes only a slight depression or crease in the plush, gives a very pretty natural effect. The leaves can be shaded by using different shades of plush. For instance, one-half of a leaf may be light crimson, the other a shade or two darker; or the point of a leaf may be turned over, showing light green against dark. Arranging them in this way gives variety, also less stiffness of design, HANDKERCHIEF BOX, These same plush designs may be used on sateen or cloth, although in this case the term “ mosaic” would not be applied. The design described would, however, be very pretty arranged on a ground-work of either of these ma- terials. This work is very beautiful for table covers, lambrequins, portieres or any large article that may require a decorative border. Handkerchief Box.—Take a fancy letier-paper box that is square, and opens in the center; make a tufted cushion of satin on the top, and put an insertion of white lace around it with the same colorunderneath. If careful, with a very little glue, the sides can be covered with satin, finishing the edges with a silver or gilt cord. Complete the box by plaeing a little per- fume sachet inside. This makes a pretty present and is not expensive, as often small pieces of silk will answer the purpose of covering. Knitted Insertions.—No, 1, Twist pattern—Cast on six stitches for each pattern. First six rows: Plain. Seventh row: Slip three loops on a spare needle, leave them and knit the next three; then knit those on the spare needle, Repeat these seven rows. No. 2, Feather Pattern—Cast on twenty- 7 d 2 LADIES’ FANUY WORK. 367 five stitches for each pattern. First row: Knit two together four times; then over and one plain eight times; then knit two together four times, and purl the last stitch. Second, third, and fourth rows: Plain. Repeat from first row. Wall Pocket.— We give herewith an illustration of a wall-pocket, which - is ornamental and useful. It may be used for visiting cards, letters, papers, sewing-materials, slippers, and various odds and ends. Almost any kind of WALL POCKET. material may be used, but something bright has more attractiveness. The one the drawing was made from was of silk, of blue silk, lined with corn color, with cord of blue and gold, and with raised embroidery in silk, The framework is cut from stiff paper. When designed with especial reference to slippers, the pocket is cut quite in the shape of a slipper, with a loop at the heel, from which it is hung. For Christmas gifts they form pretty ob- jects for devoted fingers to manufacture. Floral Transparency.—The pretiy transparency represented on next page is made by arranging pressed ferns, grasses, and autumn leaves on a 368 THE HOUSEHOLD. pane of window-glass, which should be obscured, laying another transparent pane of the same size over it, and binding the edges with ribbon, leaving the group imprisoned between (use gum tragacanth in putting on the binding). It is well to secure a narrow strip of paper under the ribbon. The binding should be gummed all around the edge of the first pane, and dried before the leaves, ferns, etc., are arranged; then it can be neatly folded over the second pane without difficulty. To form the loop for hanging the trans- parency, paste a binding of galloon along the upper edge, leaving a two-inch loop free in the center, afterward to be pulled through a little slit in the final binding. These transparencies may either be hung before a windoy, or, if preferred, secured against a pane in the sash. In country halls a beautiful effect is pro- duced by placing them against the side-lights of } the hall door. Where the side-lights are each of only a single pane, it is well worth while to place a single trans- fii} Parency against each, qi filling up the entire j; Space, thus affording ample scope for a free arrangement ofthe ferns, grasses, and leaves, di] While the effect of the Hi) lightis very fine. Leaves | Hii} so arranged will pre- ‘fii Serve their beautiful ap- ‘ti| pearance throughout the ili ontire winter. Flower Patterns for Embroidery.— Great taste can be dis- played in selecting ap- propriate flower patterns as for an embroidered dc- FLORAL TRANSPARENCY, sign. The double and single hyacinths, com- bined with a tulip, give a lovely effect. The fine dark blue of the former and the scarlet-margined yellow of the latter show to splendid advantage on black velvet or deep brown satin. White and purple lilacs mixed with the gold and yellow crocus give a striking design for floss and bead needlework, on a dark brown of some rich goods. The light blue crocus, with its pretty tippings of snow white, combines richly with the double red anemone, a de- sign well suited for a center-piece on a table or a piano cover. The border would look handsome worked in some sort of creeping plant, with the cor- ners finished off in star anemones clustered with autumn leaves. The Belle — Laura tulip is of a lovely violet hue enhanced in beauty by the mixture of white; this flower is very effective in large pieces of embroidery with a touch — LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 369 of brilliant green foliage. A cluster of oxalis, with their brilliant hues and dark green leaves, give a charming effect. Combined with pansies, this de- sign is a lovely pattern for the center of a sofa pillow; the border should be worked in buds and smilax. A bunch of heliotrope wrought in silk and worsted on black velvet gives a handsome design for applique work on satin to be used for various decorative effects in upholstery. The best and most correct designs in flowers are made from the natural plants. The tints are éasily matched in silk and worsted, and even in beads the various colors are given. Lamp Shade.— Materials: Three sheets of tissue paper, each one a shade darker than the other; six fancy colored pictures, one-eighth yard of white tarlatan, and one sheet of gilt paper. Cut six pieces of cardboard the shape of pattern, cover them with the tarlatan, then glue the gilt paper on one side of each, just turning it over the edges. Then cut of the tissue paper Square pieces the size of pattern; fold them across from corner to corner; then fold again, and run the four edges together and draw up tightly, form- ing the leaves. Sew them on as seen in the design, putting in the different shades. Fasten cach section of the shade together by just tying at the top and bottom with coarse, waxed thread. Glue a fancy picture in the center of each section. Quilt Lining.— Then take gold or amber-colored beads and make a second row; the third row of white beads. Stick these around the jet buttons to the oil-cloth. The four double twisted rows may be made of different colored beads. The ends of these can be sewed on to the oil-cloth, and, after they are se- surely: fastened, cut the oil-cloth which shows from under the ornaments, _ and then fasten it to the edges of the plates. Bag for Knitting-= Work.—In these days of knitting and crocheting, a small pocket or bag is con- venient to hold the balls of wool, silk or cotton, and the needles or crochet hooks. This knitting-work pocket is worn attached to the belt, and is made of ecru linen and lined with red satin, or any other material that one may fancy. Cut from each of these materials five pieces of the following dimensions: Two inches wide at the top, not al- lowing for seams, one-half inch wide at the bottom and sixinches long. These pieces are cut so as to bulge out at * the sides, and are each four = inches in width at the widest part. Embroider the linen in any design that you may fancy, but if seems desirable that this should be in outline stitch, and done with red silk. Join the linen pieces so that the seams are on the right side; notch them go that they will lie flat, and cover them with red silk braid, croes-stitched with some con- trasting tone or color. Join the lining and place inside this, and bind the top with the same braid and fasten down in the same manner. Work a red silk eyelet hole in one of the side pieces to allow the end of the wool you are working with to come through. Close the bottom of the bag with a bunch of loops of red satin ribbon, and sew an end of the same ribbon at the top of each of the seams, joining them together with a bow of the ribbon, in which is sewed quite a large shield pin to fasten it to the dress belt. Pin-Cushion.—A pretty little pin-cushion in the shape of a bellows can be made as follows: First cut four pieces of cardboard (visiting or invitation VISITING CARD STAND. ————————— ee LS LADIES’ FANCY WORK. 875 eards are the best), to the size required, and the shape of a small bellows; cover these four pieces singly with pretty silk or satin, by turning over the edges and lacing them from side to side with a needle and thread to make them fit. Then join two pieces together, and sew over the edges neatly: sew a little piece of fine flannel or merino filled with needles to one joined side piece at the point; then put the two sides together and sew them well together at the point, leaving space enough for a gilt bod- kin to pass through and make the real point. Put pins in all around the edge, add a narrow ribbon band fastened by a pin at the handle end, to keep the sides together. The inside of the bel- FIG. 1.—WORK BASKET (OPEN). lows looks best with satin or plain silk, and the ontside with brocade. If a small design is embroidered or painted on the outside, it has a very beautiful effect. A common length of the bellows is three inches from the handle to the point. Work Basket.—An octagon-shaped box or basket is used for the founda- tion; it is lined with quilted blue satin, ornamented with a small silk button at the cor- ner of each dia- mond. The out- side of the basket is covered with old-gold satin, put on in four large puffs; each puff is divided by a band of blue velvet em- broidered with a cross-stitch de- Sign; it is edged with lace and a fine gold cord. FIG, 2.—WORK BASKET (CLOSED). The lid is covered with velvet, also ornamented with lace, and a handle of wire covered with gold cord. In Fig. 1 the basket is shown open, and in Fig. 2 closed. Fig. 2 shows plain velvet bands, and in this figured silk is nsed instead of the old-gold satin, Vig data » «8, %. “od 876 THE HOUSEHOLD, Knitted Dressing Slipper.— Materials required: Four ounce blue and four ounce white “Berlin wool; four pins No. 12 (Walk- er’s gauge), and a pair of cork soles. Commence the slipper at the toe with blue wool, cast on ten stitches, increase by putting the wool over the pin at beginning of each row to make a stitch. ° Fig. 2 shows the outside of work, and Fig. 3 the inside with loops of white wool. When knitting with the white wool take it from two balls 80 as ~ to have two lengths. 1st Row: Knit plain. 24 Row: Make one, knit one, * take the don- ble white wool, turn it twice over the pin to form a loop of about three-quarters of an inch (see design), with the left-hand pin pass the last knitted loop over the four loops of white, knit two, repeat-from * to the end of the row. 34 Row: Make one at the beginning of the row, slip the loops of white wool, knit the blue; in knitting the blue stitch pass the blue wool with which you are knitting round the double white wool; in knitting the FIG. 1.—KNITTED DRESSING SLIPPER. FIG. 2.—DETAIL OF FIG. 1. FIG, 3.—DETAIL OF FIG. 1. next stitch this will draw up the white wool close to the work, and go carry it’to the other side to be ready for working the next row of loops. 4th Row: Make one, knit the blue stitches plain, knit the four white loopa at the back as one stitch, —s —— — — eS a st‘ eC 7 aa — es OE —_ EE LADIES’ FANOY WORK. 877 5th Row: Make one, knit to the end of the row. Repeat from second row, increasing at the beginning of each row until the work is wide enough across the instep. Now divide the stitches for the sides, casting off ten in the center; with the third pin continue to work on the side stitches as before, without in- crease or decrease, until you have the length from the instep to the back of the heel, then cast off and work the other side in the same way; sew the two sides together at the back with a needle and wool. Now pick up the stitches round the top of slipper, on three pins, and with a fourth pin and blue wool knit ten rows, cast off, turn this plain piece over, and hem it down to the top of inside of slipper to form a roll round the edge. Sew the bottom of slipper neatly and firmly to a strong cork sole lined with wool. Stand for Cigar Ashes.—Our engraving represents a stand for cigar ashes. It consists of a bowl with a : piece of wire ruuning around it, by which it is mounted on three sticks, which are joined together in the middle. The upper ends are fastened to the bowl, and the fastening and bowl cov- ered by lace or pressed leather, or any other material. The stand may be made by any young man or woman, of rustic work, using for the bowl piece the half of a cocoanut-shell, scraped, finished, and varnished. It will make a neat, nnique, and useful ornament. The Hungarian Bow.—This is a novelty in home decoration, and is used instead of a scarf upon chairs and sofas, It is formed of a long scart with em- & broidered and fringed ends, but plain in § the middle, and is arranged in a knot ee SS SS SS or bow. This is fastened to the back of STAND FOR CIGAR ASHSS. the chair or sofa, and the ends prettily draped over it. Bronze and gold colors are the most used, embroidered in tulip design, with shaded red silk and gold thread. The fringe may be of gold, or red silk and gold. Handsome Roman scarfs that were bright for personal wear, but are now a little “ off-style,” may be utilized in this way, and are as handsome as anything bought at the decorative or art stores. Star Mats.—Have four knitting needles; cast on three stitches, on each of three needles, then tie like the beginning of a stocking; then knit two plain rounds, then widen every stitch all around, then knit one plain round, then widen every two stitches all around, then one plain round, then widen every three stitches ail around, then a plain round. Continue so till you get thirteen stitches between. Knit a plain round every time after widening, then widen and narrow, and widen again, then knit two plain rounds, then widen and narrow, widen and narrow again, then widen, then knit two plain rounds. Continue so till the star is complete, adding one more widened stitch every two rounds. Then bind off, -s 378 THE HOUSEHOLD. : a A Table Searf.—A uscful table scarf, and one that is particularly pleasing to the eye, because it does not suggest almost endless labor, is made by taking a strip of all wool Java canvas of the proper length for the table on which it is to be used. Line it with some stiff cloth and then with silesia. At about three inches from the outer edge sew on two strips of black velvet ribbon two inches wide. Through the center work a handsonie scroll pattern, using bright yellow silk; the velvet stripes may be put on perfectly plain, or may be worked in old-fashioned cross-stitch, or in some modification of feather stitch. Finish the bottom of the scarf with yellow silk balls. This is suitable for the common sitting-room; it is so bright that the dust can be shaken from it with ease. Baby Basket.—Procure a large brown basket and a small camp-stool. BABY BASKET, Measure the size round the top of the basket; get that quantity of material; measure the depth of the basket, and allow for the scallops to fall over the edge. Bind the scallops; fasten it to the edge of the basket; draw it down lightly to the bottom in plaits. Cut a round piece of material the shape of the bottom of the basket; fasten it round the edge, and finish with a box- plaiting of ribbons. Make the cushions and pockets to please the fancy. A box-plaiting round the top of basket; also round the scallops. Between each scallop put a bow or cord and tassels of worsted; fasten this on the camp-stool, around which put a ruffle of the same material the basket is lined with. Neat Mats can be made by cutting a stiff piece of woolen goods into the shape desired, and crocheting an edge or border of fancy-colored yarp - LADIES’ FANCY WoRR. 379 Star Stitech.— Crochet a chain of twenty stitches. Without putting the wool over first, put the ncedle into the second chain, thread over and draw through, leaving the two loops on the needle; do the same in the next threo chain successively, drawing the wool up longer and having fiye loops on the needle, put wool over and draw through all, and make one chain to hold it*. Put needle into the stitch where the five loops are, draw thread through, put the needle into the back part of last loop of the star before, draw through, put the needle into the next two chain just the same, drawing them up longer and thread over, draw through all five loops and make one chain *; repeat between the stars. Embroidered Chair Cover.—Embroidered slips are much used now instead of chmtz covers for Ss chairs. They can be made : Se SS ¢ of thin woolen material, or § = : of linen. When of «wool they are embroidered with crewels. The better way to have the covers fit nicely, is to lay the material on the chair, pin it in place to hold it firmly, and lay the plaits and seams just where they should be, and cut the ma- terial then. There are no two chairs exactly alike in shape, and it will be found far more easy to fit them in this way. The seams and edges are bound with braid and the corners are laced down with cords. Thecaps for the arms are fastened with buttons and button- holes. y RANARNA KAA PDO ‘ Feather Edged Braid Trimming.—Fasten the thread to a loop in the braid —chain seven stitches, put the needle in the second loop from where you commence, draw the thread throngh the loop and thestitch on the needle, chain four more and fasten in the next second loop, then take up three more loops by putting the needle through each one, and drawing the thread through the loop, and the stitch - on the needle, chain four stitches and fasten as before, chain four more and fasten, take up eight loops as the three were taken, chain two and fasten around the last four chain stitches, chain two more and fasten in the second loop from the eight taken up stitches, chain two, and fasten around the next four chain stitches, chain two, and fasten in second loop, then take up three loops, chain two, fasten around the four chain stitches, chain two, fasten in second loop, chain two, fasten around the seven stitches, chain four, fasten in second loop, double the braid together from this loop, and on the right EMBROIDERED CHAIR COVER. 880 THE HOUSEHOLD. side of the work take up a loop of each piece of the braid, draw the'thread through these loops, leave the stitch on the needle, and so continue until all have been taken up, as far as the loop above the eight taken up stitches, on the opposite side of the braid, then draw the thread through two stitches at a time until only one stitch remains on the needle, then commence the second scallop same as before. Crochet across the top of the completed edging, to sew on by. And I think it washes and wears better to cro- chet a chain of three between each loop on the lower edge, except those close betfveen the scallops, simply drawing the thread through these. The needle must be fine and straight. Ladies’ Work-Stand.—The skeleton of the work-stand we have illustrated is made of rattan. The squares between the rods should be covered with green, plaited silk, which is drawn together and either fastened with a button or a small rosette and a flat tassel. The bag, for the recention of embroidery or other fancy work, is made of green silk, drawn together by a green cord, at the end of which is a tassel of the same color. To hide the. joints of the rods, a scarf of green ribbon is put at each juncture, In the lower part of the stand is a pin- cushion, which is made in the same style as the filling-in of the squares above, and also drawn and held together with a button. WORK-STAND, Mosaic Embroidery.—Mosaic embroidery is very effective for mantel drapes, piano covers, and screens, and is quite easily made. Take whatever material is chosen for the ground work and sew on to it with some fancy stitch odd patterns cut from various colored plushes —— ll ee emCc eee —_ | good plan is to dispense with FLORICULTURE. ooo Ivy for Picture Frames.—Ivy is one of the best plants to have in the house, as it bears a large amount of neglect and abuse, and gratefully repays good treatment. It is not rare to see a potof ivy placed where it can be trained around picture frames or mirrors, and thus border them with living green. A the pot, or rather, have a sub- stitute for it, which is kept out of sight. Our illustration shows a picture frame wreathed with ivy after this method. Only a good-sized. picture or mirror can be treated in this way, and as such are usually hung so that the wp of the frame leans forward, the space between the frame and the wall is available for the re- ceptacle for the plant. A pot .« or pan of zinc, of a wedge shape, and size to suit the space between the frame and the wall, can be readily made by any tinsmith. This is to be hung against the wall so as to be quite concealed by the pic- ture, and the ivy tastefully trained over the frame. A rus- tic frame is better suited to this purpose, as it not only affords better facilities fer at- taching the stems to the frame, but its style seems better adapted to this kind of decora- IVY FOR PICTURE FRAMES. tion than more pretentious ones. Still, a gilt frame may be made beautiful in the same way. There is only one precaution to be used, viz.: not to hang such a frame over the fire- place, for the combined heat and dust would soon destroy the plant. Let it hang so that it may face a rorth or east window. Don’t forget the water; the pan holding the plant is out of sight, and, therefore, should be kept in mind. Diseases of Room Plant~.—The lcavyes of plants when in a normally healthy state are generally of a deep green color, but when diseased they ee 382 THE HOUSEHOLD, become yellowish or white In the majority of cases such a diseased appear- ance is produced by an excess of light or a lack of it, too much or too little water, unsuitable, overrich, or impoverished soil, or lack of drainage. When the discoloration first shows itself—and this is generally on the younger shoots | —the condition of the roots should be ascertained by turning the plant out of the pot. If the roots are healthy and fill the ball, or appear overcrowded, the discoloration indicates lack of nutriment, or too little or too much light. In the first case it can be remedied by shifting the plant into a larger pot, or watering the plant with liquid manure. If excess or lack of light is the cause, reference must be had to the character of the plant. Ferns, selaginellas, and plants of similar character that naturally grow in shady places, become pale or yellowish when grown in bright light, while those whose habitat is in open, exposed situations, become discolored when not having a sufficiency of light. In either case, when grown in pots, plants are more liable to become diseased through this cause than when grown in the open air. The remedy, of course, is only to shift the position of the plant and place it where the light will better suit its nature. If the ball is not filled with roots, and they do not appear to be fresh and healthy, the discoloration, in all probability, proceeds from excess of moist- ure or unsuitable soil. To remedy the first, sce that the drainage outlet is kept free and unchoked; if after a week or two this does not affect a change, then it is probable that the diseased appearance arises from unsuitable soil. Some plants, such as azaleas, camelias, and rhododendrons, in such case will not throw outa single rootlet from the old ball into the new soil, but gradually die back or make but weakly, spindling shoots. If the discolora- tion has been produced by bad drainage, excessive watering, or unsuitable soil, and is of such long standing as to cause the roots to decay, or the soil has become sour, the proper remedy is to shake off all the earth from them and wash them by shaking them thoroughly in clean water, cutting off the’ decayed parts with a sharp knife, and replanting into light fresh earth, and seeing that the drainage is kept free. Rich soil or large pots should not be used, tho latter should be but little larger than the diameter of the roots. When the roots are well developed the plant may be shifted into a larger pot and richer soil. The leaves of plants from warm countries—oranges, for in- stance—will sometimes become yellow when exposed to a low temperature, especially when accompanied with much moisture; the remedy in this case ' sither to raise the temperature or decrease the amount of water given. Sometimes the discoloration is caused by insufficiency of water, which — causes the roots to shrivel up. It may also proceed from giving toomuch — water at one time, and then letting the ball become dry, or hy only giving - enough of water to moisten the surface of the soil for an inch or two, while _ below it may be as dry as powder. Carefulness and watchfulness are the only modes of preventing injury to the plants from such causes. When the leaves of deciduous plants fall off as their season of rest approaches, they should be placed in a lower temperature, and not have as liberal a supply of watcr as when growing. If evergreen plants, such as we generally grow in greenhouses, shed their leaves profusely and suddenly,.it indicates that — they have not light enough, or that the temperature of the room is too high, — or the atmosphere is too dry; the proper mode of treatment in such cases is self-apparent. tA Occasionally plants will die off suddenly near the surface of the soil, although the roots, leaves and shoots look quite healthy. This is often caused by the collar of the plant—the part where the roots are joined to the —- FLORICULTURE. 333 ing set too deep into the soil. Watering with very cold water when the goil in the pots has been exposed to the sun will also cause them to die offsuddenly. Planis in pots should never have the pots exposed to the full blaze of sunshine, especially in the middle of the day. The crowns of her- baceous plants that have been kept dry, or comparatively so, during their season of rest, will rot away if the balls of roots are too liberally supplied with water. They should be kept in the shade, and but sparingly supplied with water, and that rather tepid, until they develop a leaf or two. Some plants, especially roses, when kept in rooms, are very apt to become mildewed, to the certain destruction of the leaves and flower buds. As soon as it shows itself the leaves should be washed with soap and water, rinsed off and flowers of sulphur dusted on with a dredging-box or a pepper-box, washing it off after it has been on for two or three days. The whole art of keeping plants in rooms is to provide an equable, moist temperature, light according to the nature of the plants, regular moderate watering, good drainage, suitable soil, cleanliness, and an aveidance of all sudden checks or shocks to the plant either in temperature or humidity. These are always injurious, as they produce disease and render the plant liable to the atiacks of insects and fungoid growths. Cheap and Pretty Hanging Baskets.—The sweet potato, which is basket and contents in one, has, when successful, a very ornamental effect. Truth compels us to state that it is not always successful, and a yellow, seraggy appearance of foliage will sometimes reward the best-intentioned en- deavors; but given ordinarily favorable surroundings, which include heat and sunshine, this curious hanging basket thrives and covers a large space with bright-hued verdure. A large, sound root should be selected, and the top for some distance down is then removed. Next comes the disagreeable process of removing the inside—leaving a wall all around, and a thicker one at the bottom. Three holes are then bored at equal distances, about half an inch from the top; and into these the suspending cords, which unite at the upper ends, are fastened. When filled with water up to the holes, the sweet potato basket is completed; and if placed in a sunny window, it should be covered with shoots and leaves in a few weeks’ time. Some of the sprays can be trained upward, and others allowed todroop. The red-skinned sweet potato has a pretty streak of silver in the foliage, and the two varieties on either side of a window make an agreeable contrast. If preferred, the hollow root ean be filled with earth or sand instead of water—if with the latter, there should be two or three small pieces of charcoal atthe bottom. A carrot treated in the same way sends forth a mass of feathery foliage whose vivid green brings a sort of sunshine into the dreariest day; and even a large sponge suspended by cords, thoroughly moistened and planted with flax, rape-seed, or any low growing verdure, is not to be despised. A very pretty ¢ can be manufactured by taking an ordinary one of wire and fastening to 1 raisin-stems, or bits of thin wire properly bent, and then dipping the whole into melted sealing-wax of a vermilion color until it is thoroughly coated. Brushing it over with the mixture would take less material. The effect of theses coralized sprays, glowing throngh delicate green vines, is really beantiful. Every one cannot succeed with a basket of growing plants, but almost any one can succeed with ivy; and a very ornamental hanging _ basket that requires little care can be made in the following way: Almost wny kind of basket will answer, and there should be a good collection of autumn leaves varuished and prepared in sprays. Six or eight two ounce 384 THE HOUSEHOLD. bottles should be filled with water, and have one or two well-grown sprays of ivy in each, placed in wads of cotton to keep them upright, the leaves ar- ranged in between and around the edge of the basket. The ivy will grow, and can be trained to run up the cords, as well as to hang over the sides; the only care required is to fill up the bottles as the water evaporates, and to keep the leaves free from dust. : Window Gardening.—What adds more to the cheerfulness of the home during the lonely, dreary days of winter, than flowers? All can have i | ue sir A isn i iN Al (an SS RR FIG. 1.—DOUBLE WINDOW WITH PLANT SHELF. them, the poor as well as the rich, if a little care and forethought is useq _ in growing and arranging them. The preparatory work consists in transplanting and fairly starting im small pots, in August or September, the Madeira vine, creepin harlie, © cypress vine, balloon vine, the common English, the German, or the Kenil- worth ivy, or morning glory, flowering bean, or sweet-scented pea, or, if you are disposed to be more aristocratic, smilax, lophiospermum, or, if the wit- dow is large and the foliage is not deemed too rank, the clematis or the FLORICULTURE, 385 passion vine.’ Nearly all of these, if thus started, will grow finely and festoon your windows in a few weeks; some of them have fine blossoms, which will add to the beauty of their foliage. Next, for the plants to make a display m your windows. What these shall be, and how they shall be arranged, de- pends very much upon the size, shape and character of your windows. If you have a bay or oriel window, either large or small, you caw make it the most attractive feature of your room ata very small expense. First place your pots with climb-vines at the sides on low brackets, and the vines to make a beautiful frame for your windows. If the window is a deep bay, other and more delicate vines may be placed between the side windows and the main one—such as smilax, the Kenilworth ivy, or the cypress vine—aud trained over the ceiling of the bay. At the base of the windows have a shelf six or eight inches wide (eight is best), supported by the ordinary FIG. 2._PRETTY ARRANGEM®HT FOR SITTING-ROOM WINDOWS. metal brackets, and in front tack the expanding framework (such as is shown in Fig. 1), which is now to be found for sale by the yard very cheap at all the flower stores—the black walnut is the prettiest, though the holly wood is very neat; stretch it to ita full extent before tacking it on. Then selecting your hardiest and most freely-blooming plants—geraniums, pélargoniums, rose geraniums, all from slips potted in July or August, periwinkles, fuchsias, heliotropes, bouvardias, cuphias, and newly-potted slips of ver- bena, with such other beautiful small plants as you may find desirable— place pot in one about three sizes larger, which is partially filled with fine ea and the space between loosely packed with moss. Set these on your shelf, arranging them with reference to complementary colors; put in the center where the main partition between the two divisions of the central window is, a good and shapely ardisia, which, if it has been plunged during < 386 THE HOUSEHOLD. the summer, will, by this time, be loaded with its beautiful berries, whieh are in November just beginning to turn to a beautiful scarlet... These ber- ries will hang on till June; and, while the plant is of very moderate price, it has no superior as an ornamental shrub. In the corners put callas, which should have been heeled or turned over to rest, as early as July or August 1st. Their position should be partially shaded, and where they will not have too much heat; when they begin to bud, they should have a plenty of warm, almost hot, water furnished therm daily. They, too, should be placed ina “ ¥IG. 3,—BAY WINDOW WITH PLANT PLATFORM. pot surrounded by a large pot, and the interstices filled in with moss, Across the center of the windows place other shelves with pots of smaller flowers, and, among the rest, creeping plants, such as verbenas, sweet alyssum, nemaphila lobélia, mesembryanthemum, etc., etc. On a table in the center, if you can have a neat box, zinc-lined, you can set in pots, inths, amaryllis, ¢yclamens, iris, and the finest sorts of crocus, and, packing moss — around them, keep them moist. From the ceiling of the bay may be suspended — hanging baskets, taking the precaution to keep them moist. The outlay for — all this is Yery little, and if you are ingenious you can Go it all yourself. Ae - t But everybody has not bay windows, or even double windows. For these unfortunates, among whom we are sorry to be obliged to reckon ourselves, oa : PLORICULTURE. 387 the simpler arrangement indicated in Fig. 2 is almost as effective. A shelf at the foot of each window supported on brackets, and, if preferred; protected by the expanding framework, will give room for four or six pots at each window, while the vines can be trained around the windows, as in the other case. A swinging bracket large enough for two pots can be attached to the outer side of the framework of each window, midway of its height, and a rustic basket attached to a: hook projecting from the top of the window frame, if desired. On a table or slab between the windows a small jardiniere, containing an ardisia, or Tahiti orange, can be placed. In the selection of climbers for trimming the windows, avoid the climbing fern, which is offered so abundantly at all the flower stores. It cannot be made to live in parlors, Fic. 4.—DEEP BAY —— =e BRACKETS. PY and in spite of all the care which may be taken with it will become dry and unsightly. The ivies, Madeira vine and cypress vi '.are the “best, * though several other climbers are pretty. The blossoms of the Madeira vine, which will come out if it is well cared for in February or March, are very fragrant, and will fill the parlors with their delicate petfume. The wall pockets so plenty in these days of scroll sawing, can be very easily adapted tothe purpose of plant cultivation, and add greatly to the beaujguat a a decorations. How to at Insects on Plants.—SIngs are occasionally eating large holes or notches in the leaves of all succulents and begonias. They usually feed at night. Cut potatoes, turnips, or some other f y vegetable in halves, and place conveniently near the plants, The slugs will gather -? . _— 888 THE HOUSEHOLD. upon the vegetable, and are easily destroyed. The white worm which infests, occasionally, all soils where plants are kept in pots, may be removed as follows: Sprinkle lime water over the soil, or sprinkle a little slacked lime on the earth, and in the saucer of the pot. Lime water may be easily made by slacking a large piece uf lime in a pail of cold water, letting this settle, and then bottle the clear water for use. Give each pot a tablespoon- ful twice a week. : To destroy the little bugs on the oleander, take a piece of lime the size of a hen’s egg, and dissolve it in about two quarts of water. Wash the stock and branches with this water. To destroy plant lice, take three and a half ounces of quassia chips, add five drachms Stavesacre seed in powder, place in seven pints of water, and *. boil down to five pints. When cold, the strained liquid is ready for use, either by means of a watering-pot or a syringe Hot alum water will destroy red and black ants, cockroaches, spiders and chintzbugs. Take two pounds of alum and dissolve it in three or four quarts of boiling water. Let it stand on the fire until the alum is all melted, then apply it with a brush (while nearly boiling hot) to the places fre- quented by these insects. * : Any choice plants may be preserved from the ravages of slugs by placing a few pieces of garlic near them. No slugs will approach the smell of garlic. Greenhouse slugs often become a nuisance in the greenhouse. A certain remedy is to sprinkle salt freely along the edges of the bench or table, the crossing of which is sure death to the slug. Another way of destrcying insects on flowers is to water the plants with a decoction of tobacco, which quickly destroys. Independently of the re- . moval of the insects, tobacco-water is considered by many persons to improve the verdure of the plant. Prepare it as follows: Take one pound of roll tobacco and pour over it three pints of water, nearly boili Let it stand for some hours before it is used. = Kerosene oil may be used for destroying insects on plants by taking a tablespoonful of oil and mixing it with half a cup of milk, and then diluting the mixture with two gallons of water. Apply the liquid with a syringe, and afterward rinse with clear water. This substance is death to plant insects, - and we haye never heard of its injuring the most delicate plants when used as here directed. The following is recommended as a means of destroying the rose slug: Add a teaspoonful of powdered white hellebore to two gallons of boiling water. Apply when cold, in a fine spray, bending the tops over so as to reach the under surface of the leaves. One application is usually suflicient. This is a good way to treat the currant worm. The red spider may be banished from plants by the simple process of cutting off the infected leaf. A leaf once attacked soon decays and falls off, but then the animals remove to another. By carefully pursuing this ampu- tation plants will become remarkably healthy. A new method for the getting rid of worms which destroy the house plants is a number of sulphur matches placed in the flower pots with their heads down. The experiment has been tried with success. Ammonia for Plants.—If the house plants become pale and sickly, & — dose of ammonia, a few drops in the water you water them with, will revive — them like magic. It is the concentrated essence of fertilizers, and acts upon plant life as tonics and sea air upon human invalids, PLORICULTURPE. 389 Ornamental Wardian Case.—The sides of the box are of mahogany, 1 1-4 inch in thickness, and the bottom of deal, 1 1-2 inch thick, well framed and dovetailed together, and strengthened with brass bands, and with two cross-bars beneath. The upper edge of the box is furnished with a groove for the reception of the glass roof, and this groove is lined with brass, to GRNAMENTAL WARDIAN CASE, prevent the wood from rotting. The roof is composed of brass, and glazed with the very best flattened crown glass. The brass astragals are grooved for the reception of the glass, and not rebated, as in offlinary glazing. Eyed studs are cast on the inner side of the ridge astragal, about half an inch in length, for the purpose of suspending small orchids or ferns from the roof. The inside of the box is lined with zinc, and at one of the corners an aperture ie formed into which a copper tube, two inches long, is inserted, and fur- - - alt 890 THE HOUSEHOLD. nished with a cock for withdrawing any superfluous water that may at aly time accumulate within the box. One of the panes is made to take out—this provision is necessary for the occasional arrangement and airing of the plants, but the general arrangement is made by lifting the top off entirely. Rose Culture.—VSituation.—A place apart from other flowers should be assigned to them, if possible, sheltered from high winds, but open and not surrounded by trees, as closeness is very apt to generate mildew; where they cannot have a place to themselves, any part of the garden best fulfilling these conditions will answer. Soil.—A most important item in their successful culture. That in which they especially delight is a rich, unctious loam, that feels greasy when pressed between the fingers. Where this is not to be had the soil must be improved; if light, by the addition of loam, or even clay, well worked in; where heavy, good drainage and the addition of coal ashes in small quanti- ties will help it, but in such places draining is more important. Planting.—Mix some loam and well-rotted manure together, open a good sized hole, and fillit with fresh soil; plant firmly. Shorten any very long shoots, and, if exposed to winds, secure the plant by short stakes. Manuring.—Roses are strong feeders, and will take almost any amount of manure; pig manure is the best, except in hot soils, when cow manure is preferable; stable manure is generally available and good. Exhibitors gen- erally apply a top-@ressing in spring, but it does not improve the appearance of the beds; a good top-dressing may be laid on the beds in autumn, and be dug in in the spring. Watering.—When coming into bloom, if the weather be dry, give a good drenching twice or three times a week; continue after blooming to prevent mildew. If greater size be required, liquid manure may be used. Syringe daily for green fly. Pruning.—This may be done any time after the beginning of March, ac- cording to the season. Cut out all wood over two years old and all weakly shoots. Weak-growing kinds should be pruned hard—that is, down to three or four eyes; stronger growing kinds may be left longer. Cut to an eye that points outward, so as to keep the inside of the plant open. Teas and noisettes require less cutting back; the tops should be shortened and the weak shoots cut out, and they should not be pruned until May. Usea sharp knife. Rustic Hanging Basket.—The accompanying drawing represen '> rustic hanging basket that any person can make with the common house tools, axe, saw, knife, hammer and a few brads. First, procure from the woods two or three sticks of iron wood, or such as may suit the fancy. They should be selected, small trees, about three inches in-diameter. After selecting the tree, cut it up into pieces fourteen or fifteen inches in length; then, taking one of these round sticks, split off the four sides; this, if it splits well, will give eight pieces from two sticks, the number required to make the basket. The sticks, or pieces, should be narrower and thinner at one end than the other, as shown in the cut, and rounded at each end. Ther procure a block or piece of inch board, and cut out a circular piece about three inches in diameter, slanting it a little so that the pieces will have the taper towards the bottom when tacked to the block. This gives the basket 9 little flare. They should fit close together at the point where the block is, and may be a little open, nearer the top, in order to fill between with moss, — ; ‘A 3 : | FPLORICULTURE. - ae Now, the pieces being nailed to the block with brads, begin to ornament it with grape-vines and roots. Roots are tacked to the under side of the block, to fill it all up, and atthe lower poinis of the pieces where they match, al- ways keeping in view one thing—to preserve the tapering form and matching the roots in every way that will bring them all towards the center with uni- formity. Next put vines on the sides, as per engraving, bring- ing two together over the places where the sticks match; also, weave in around the top two vines, in and out alternately, and, fastening with brads, tack roots on the pieces between the ornamental work. Next put on a handle of grape-vine, giving it a single knot; tie at the top to form a loop, interweaving it with a smaller vine; then give the basket a coat of varnish and put aces in suitable plants. Keep the 3% basket partially in the shade, and occasionally dip it in a bar- rel of rain water. To Prepare Plants for Winter.—It is a great mistake to delay the work of prepara- tion for winter until it is sug- gested by cool nights or a warn- ing given by blighting frosts. When a plant has been taken from a pot and planted in open ground it usually outgrows its former place, and is too large for any vessel of convenient size. The root should be cut away to a considerable extent and likewise the top or foliage must be correspondingly re- duced. Novices often fail at this point, for they dislike to part with any of the new growth, and set the plant in a pot un- pruned, and expect what is not RUSTIC HANGING BASKET. possible, that it will flourish. Cut back root system and branch system equally is the rule. Plants when thus transplanted need to be fayored by being kept in the shade and shel- tered from the drying winds until they have made qjgood start in the pots. Many of the house plants are kept in their pots during the summer and will need repotting, or the pot washed and the surface soil replaced by fresh, rich earth. A larger pot is needed by those plants whose roots have formed @ mat along the inner surface. The ball of earth can be examined quickly ie THE HOUSEHOLD. by spreading the left hand on the vessel—the stem passing between thé fingers, and with the other hand on the bottom invert the pot and give the edge a downward tap against some object. If this does not succeed, pour some water around the edge, and after a short time repeat the operation. All old pots should be clean, and if the new ones are used soak them in water until the pores are filled. A piece of broken vessel is placed over the bottom hole before filling in the potting earth. All the necessary pots, soil, etc., should be abandoned now, that they may be at hand when needed at any time during the winter. Selection of House Plants.—Select fresh, healthy plants for winter cul- ture, for they will repay all the labor you bestow upon them by bright flow- ers. The old geraniums, heliotropes, fuchsias, etc., which have flowered all summer, will be of no value for window gardening, while young plants will soon be covered with buds and flowers. Small plants in small pots are far more desirable for house culture than large plants in such cumbrous pois that it requires a man’s strength to move them. There are several winter-flowering fuchsias which will continue to bloom from October until May, in beautiful luxuriance, if you will only give them a spoonful of ‘* Soluble Pacific Guano” once in two or three weeks, or give it in a liquid form by dissolving a tablespoonful of it in three quarts of hot water. It will also destroy the white worms which are so apt to infest the soil of plants that have not been repotted frequently. At least it proved an antidote with me last season. But if it does not exterminate them, take a piece of unslacked lime as large a8 a man’s fist, and slack it in hot water in an old pail, and when the lime has sunk to the bottom, water the plants with ) it, and it will make their foliage luxuriant and destroy worms of all kinds. The lime can be used over several times. Tea roses, if well treated, make lovely plants for winter. Purchase well- rooted plants of Bon Silene, Safrano, Bella, and other varieties, and put them ‘ close to the glass and stimulate weekly with weak liquid fertilizers; or a : Jacqueminot rose which bloomed in the summer may be taken up and potted in an eight-inch pot, with the richest compost’ made friable with sand or : sharp grits, cut back all the old wood and pull off eyery leaf and place it in a frost-proof window, but where the sun shines in well, and you can force as handsome rose-buds as the florists. For a small amount of money a collection of winter-flowering plants can be procured; and though they will neither feed nor clothe the body, yet they will minister to the needs of the soul, which sometimes hungers, thirsts, and shivers, while the body is luxuriously fed, and clothed in fine raiment. Soil for Plants.—Knowing that nearly every lady in the city finds it hard to get manure of the right quality for her plants, I thought this sug- gestion might be of some use to them. Gather up the fallen leaves and put them in an old box, or in some obscure corner where they will not haye to be removed. After getting all you want, pile them in as close quarters as possible, then throw on them all of your dish-water, wash-water, or any water that will help to make them rot. Every week or two take a stick and turn the leaves overyand keep on doing this until they are all rotten, which they will be in a short time, and you will have as good a manure asany __ florist could want. If you could get the droppings from a cow and put them in an old dish and pour water on them; let it stand for a day or two; then — take the liquid and pour it around the roots of the plant; it will give it % 4 PLORICULTURE. 303 dark green color and make it grow very fast; but in putting the lastnamed on the roots do not let any get on the Jeaves. As nearly every lady has some plant which they cannot pot, from its large size, they would be very glad to know of some way in which they can enrich the soil without going to the trouble of taking the plant out of the pot. By putting the liquid on every month it will make the soil nearly as rich and do the plant as much good as if they had put it in rich soil. Fime charcoal is excellent to mix with the soil when potting plants, or to sprinkle on the surface of the soil of those already potted. It stimulates the growth of the plants and deepens the colors. Iron filings from a blacksmith or machine shop worked into the soil for plants, will add greatly also to the rich and bright color of the flowers. Smilax for a Curtain.—Last season, writes a lady, I slipped some smi- lax out of a small pot into a box which I set on a shelf that was on the ont- side of a south window. This shelf was eight inches below the top of the window-sill. The box was six inches deep, and so was a little lower than the sill. With a red-hot poker I burned a row of holes around the sides of the box, and filled it with a light, rich soil. When the plant was fully es- tablished and hai sent up nice thrifty sprouts, I drove nine small nails along the top of the window-pane, and slipped on to them the looped-up ends of a fine cord; the other ends of the cord were tied each to a nail which was stuck in the box by the sprout it was intended to support. The vines grew rapidly, and in a few weeks’ time had reached the top of the window; a week or two more, and the ends were drooping down from the top, thus forming a graceful valance to my beautiful curtains—a curtain far more beautiful than any made by mortal hand could ever be. In October, when the nights were growing frosty, I slipped the looped ends of the cords that supported the vines off the nails, and placed the box with the vine on a stand on the inside , of the window and slipped the loops over nails, and 80, without any trouble at all, had my window adorned with this lovely vine until Christmas. This : vine 80 airily light, and so graceful, is peculiarly appropriate for the adorn- | ment of thin evening dresses, and as lovely for the hair. Hot-Water Cure for Sickly Plants.—_\M. Willermoz some time since stated that plants in pots may be restored to health by means of hot water; ill-health he maintains, ensues from acid substances in the soil, which, be- ing absorbed by the roots, act as poison. The small roots wither and cease to act, and the upper and younger shoots consequently turn yellow, or be- come spotted, indicative of their morbid state. In such cases the usual remedy is to transplant into fresh soil, in clean pots with good drainage, and this often with the best results. But his experience of several years has proved the unfailing efficacy of the simpler treatment, which consists in watering abundantly with hot water at a temperature of 145 degrees Fahr., having previously stirred the soil of the pots so far as may be done without injury to the roots. Water is then given until it runs freely from the pots. Tn his experiments, the water at first came out clear; afterwards it was sen- sibly tinged with brown, and gave an appreciable acid reaction. After thie thorough washing, the pots were kept warm, and the plants very soon made new roots, immediately followed by vigorous growth. on Golden-Leaved Horseshoe Geranium.—If those who have the golden- leaved horseshoe geraniums will put them in the brightest sunlight, the colors will be brought out so that the plant will be as beautiful as if it were covered with blossoms, *-. 394 THE HOUSEHOLD. The Mud System of Slipping Plants.—The following interesting article we find in the Babyhood Magazine: A child of five years can cut off a slip from a geranium, verbena, heliotrope, carnation, fuchsia, or even a rosebush, taking care that the slip is made from the young or green shoot; and in a plate or saucer filled with wet sand , it will root just as quickly and as well as if put in by the hands of a gardener—provided . care is taken that the sand in the saucer is kept wet by add- ing a little water to it each day until the slips show the small roots. - The slip should be cut in the way shown in the draw- ing, taking it off either between or below the joints. The sau- cer holding the slips should be placed in some sunny window where it is warm enough for a little child. Nearly all kinds of slips can be rooted at any time of the year; but some, such as the coleus, salvias, and various plants called ‘‘ warm-blooded,” had bet- ter not be slipped until the warm weather comes in May. The slips will begin to show the little roots in from two to three weeks after being put in the saucers. They. should then be potted in little - pots about two inches deep, which the gardeners call thumb-pots. The slips should be pottedin — rich, soft mold, which can be procured from any florist, Good garden earth will also do, only it must not be wet and sticky. Ifit can only be got in a very wet condition, | dry stove-ashes may be mixed with it. When the slips are to be potted, first fill the little flower-pot full of earth, then with the fore-finger make a hole in the center big enough toputthe roots in. Gently press the earth all around the roots, making it level and-smooth on the top; then with a watering-pot sprinkle - slightly the slips, now plants. Every other day they will require watering until they begin to put f little white roots to the edge of the pot, which can be seen by giving the pot a tap on the table, and turning the contents out just like jelly from a glass. After ; the svil in the little pots gets filled with roots, which will be in four or five ~ weeks from the time the slips were placed in them, it will be well to trans- — plant into pots three or four inches deep. By May the slips that were put 3 ja the saucers to root in February or March will have made planta largo = a wv aS “a PLORICULTURE. 395 6nough to set out in the open garden, and by midsummer will be fine bushes covered with blossoms. Fuchsias.—Fuchsias, after being exhausted with blooming, should have the terminal shoots all chpped off, and be repotted in a soil composed of leaf mold. In a few weeks new shoots full of flower buds will start all over, growing rapidly. Rustic Flower Stand.— Bieckbs 8 4d whortleberry. try and whortle , the, 134 Blacking, hcneiel gi 509; excellent ps 517. Black leg, 169. Black walnut, to ba 501. Blane mange, 332 corn starch, 332, # =e? 582 INDEX. 4 hd Blankets, to wash, 473. Bleeding, to stop, 427. Blindness, how produced, 150. Blister, blood, 458. Blood, the, to purify, 452. Bluefish, baked, 292. Blue grass and timothy, 67. Bluing, 477. Boils, 456. Bonnet, a straw, to bleach, 507. Boots, rubber, mending, 494; and shoes, polish for, 511; kid, to renovate the top of, 517; black kid, to restore the color of, 530. Bots, 147. Bouquet, a, to keep fresh, 410; de la Reine, 470. Bouquets, arranging, 405. Bow, the Hungarian, 377. Bowls, wooden, to prevent from crack- ing, 528. Box, handkerchief, 366; glove, and cover, 370. Braid trimming, feather edged, 379. Bran, straw and, 173; feeding with meal, 178. Brass or copper, several ways to clean . @and polish, 485. Bread, graham, to make, 307; to keep moist, 38075 rice, 307; Southern batter or egg, 307; Indian, 307, 310; brown, 308; cheese cakes, 308; dyspepsia, 309; good brown, 309; y steamed brown, 310; old maid, 310; improving, 310; cottage, 311. Bread making, 514; eight points in, 306: Breakfast, a nice dish for, 280; dish, 280; potato cakes for, 280; dish, a cheap, 280. Breath, offensive, 426; the, to sweeten, 467. Breeding males, selecting, 154. Bright’s disease, 441. Britannia. metal, to clean, 501. Brittle feet, 151. Bronchitis, 448. Broom, a, the use of, 498. Brown Betty, 317. Bug-catcher, a handy, 47. Bugs, gas tar as a remedy for, 97. on vines, to destroy, 98; water, positive cure for, 521. Bulbs, manure for, 407. Bull, ringing a, 155. Bunions, 450, Burdocks, remedy for, 275. Burns and scalds, 424. Butter, how to make good, 223; to keep, 226; wrappers, waterproof, 226; rancid, to restore, 226; making, French, 227; Butter, preparing for market, 228 keeping for winter use; 228; ries | first principles in, 229; borax for salting, 230; don’t flavor too much, 230; to color, 230; firm without ice, 231; orange, 332; ach, 313, 383; avana, 333; scotch, 347;° to purify, 517; to improve and preserve, 523; Butter-worker, an improved, 227. Cabbage, fertilizer for 94; club root in, 99; lille, 297; baked, 297; unpleasant odor from, 521. Cabbages, early, how to grow, 93; novel method of growing, 94; red, to pickle, 305. Caked udder, 170. Cake johnny, 310; bon-ton wedding, 334; snow Jelly, 334; rich coffee, 335; marble, 335; lemon, 335; watermelon, 335; frosting for, 336; cocoanut, 336; apple, 336; angel, 336; a useful, 336; Dolly Varden, 336; almond, 337; raised raisin, 337; strawberry or red, 337; farmer’s fruit, 337; ice cream, 337; rice, 337; pineapple, 3375 banana, 338; bread, 338; block, 338; layer, filling for, 338; huckleberry, 339; Boston, 339; queen’s, 339; cream, 339; Mrs. Crabtree’s, 339; loaf seed, 340; Adelaide, 340; fruit cream, 340; tea, 340; Christmas, 340; molasses sponge, 348; corn, 341; fruit, 341, 342; jelly, to roll, 341; mother’s tea, 341; choice fig, 341; currant, 341; layer, 341; hickory nut, 341; molasses, 342; sponge, 342; clove, 342; feather, 342; a INDEX. Cake, Snowden, 342; chocolate, new way to prepare, 342; to flavor, 343; baking. Rints on, 493. Cakes, bread griddle, 277; ckwheat, 277; corn griddle, 278; wheat griddle, 278; breakfast corn, 278; fried meat, 286; clam, 293; green corn, 299; buttermilk, 338; coffee, 3338; honey, 339; cream 339; Boston 340; Calico, to prevent from fading, 481. Callas, treatment of, 409. Calves, raising, g, 165; scours in, 173. Canada thistles, killing, 57. eniagy h §20. Cancer, Candie, Me e burn all night, 519. Candy, "walnut, 347; ‘almond, . chocolate, 347; cocoanut, 348; vanilla, 348. Cane chair bottom, to restore, 508. Cank ers, 460. Canned goods, to pack, 530. Caponizing, 195. Card receiver and watch case, hanging, 361. etee e taxins cating: 408. Carpets, ¢ leaning, 493; to remove grease from, 500; to renovate, 502; to restore the color of, 508; to clean, 528. Carriage, a, to preventfrom spotting, 274. Carriage-house and stable, model, 24. Carrots, stewed, 298. e cushion, 372. Cashmere, black, to cleanse, 482. Catarr 430. Catch- Catsup, aaa: 303; cucumber, 305; currant, 306; grape, 306. reliving coked, ii; ; eving ¢ rack, 159 533 Cattle, economy in feeding, 159; to prevent from hooking fences, 161; black tongue in, 162; . lice on, 163; how practical farmers manage their, P pore ge Me smoky, to clean, 522. ery, 8 an easy *method of blanching, 88. Cellars, mold in, 276. Cement, a Ly Be at fastening nts in handles, a, withstanding heat and moisture Fen mend china, 510; , &te., 522. Chair cover, embro’ dered: 379. Chairs, old cane, upholstering, 494. Chandeliers, improvement in, 529. Charlotte Russe, 330. Cheese, to keep ‘rom mold, 503; mites in, 522. Cherries, preserved, 312. Cherry di 116. Chicken and duck enclosure, 195; coop, a, 210; coop, an inexpensive, 216; cholera, 216; fountain, a cheap, 27; lice, 217; Viennese style, 283; — es, 284; irginia fried, 284; a la mode, 284; boned, 2863 fried, 287; fritters, 287; croquette, 287; pressed, 289. Chickens, artificially hatched, how to raise, 198; raising by artificiat mothers, 203; late, 219; smothered, 284; new way of be so 287. Chilblains, 440. , food for, 459. Chimney, a burning, 513; ornaments, crystallized, 516; to clean a, 529. Chimneys, smoky, 512; lamp, care of, 522; lamp, to Keep from cracking, 526, 534 INDEX. Chocolate, Iceland moss, 345. Choking, 460. Cholera morbus, 441; infantum, 458. Chowder, fish, 291. Chromos, to mount, 517. Churning, power for, 2245 hard, and blue cream, 225, Cider, how to preserve, 266; how to keep sweet, 517. Cisterns, 263; to purify, 263. Citron, preserved, 314. Clams with cream, 292; panned, 292; how to cook, 293. Clod crusher, a, 251; a good, 245. Closets, damp, 528. Cloth, black, to renovate, 509. Clothes brush holder, 3543 washing Without fading, 477; a French way of washing, avy; new mixture used in washing, 478; to take mildew from, 479; bars, convenient, 4733 sprinkler, 475; _ care of, 501; grease spots on, 506; to perfume, 528. Clothing, winter, putting away, 525; ink on, 527. Cockroaches, to exterminate, 528, Codfish with’ cream, 291; balls, 292. Coffee, *g00d, to make, 277; cream, 330; and tea pots, er on 527; pot, care of a, Cold in the head, 1805 in (nite 453. Coloring recipes, 484. Colors, to set, 518. Color, ‘to restore, 516. Colt, raising a, 138; to bit a, 139. Colts, ringbones on, 149. Combs, fine toothed, to clean, 524. Complexion, the, pearl water for, 469, Compost, ashes in the, 75; materials for, 79. Cones, cocoanut, 332. Conserve, lemon, 883. Oonsumption, 429; the earliest sign of, 444. Contagion, to prevent, 455, Conveniences, household, 494 Convulsions, 443. Cookies, 342; good plain, 335; currant, 336; molasses, 337; soft, 340; hickory nut, 842; ginger, 3424" cocoanut, 343. Copying-ink, 518. Corn, hilling injurious to, 40; Corn crib, an Ohio, 40; seed, 41, 565 crib, a convenient, 41; cribs, cheap, 42; the enemies of, "433 seed saving, 44; fodder, curing, "44s culture, 44; points on, 44; raising good ina ary season, 455 cabbages with, 45; with tomatoes, 300; beans, etc., to can, "489; sweet, canning, 500. Corn- marker, a good, 245. Corns, 434. Corn- sheller, a home-made, 249, Corpulence, "452. Corsets, to clean, §13. Cosmetics, 464. Costiveness, 440. Cottage, an ‘inexpensive, 11; an ornamental country, 12. Cottons, colored, to wash, 478. Coughs’ and colds, 435. Cow, marks of a good, 1 horse or, to test the health of a, 169; how to milk a, 170; foul foot in a, 171. Cows, milch, bone disease in, 158; good, how ruined, 160; milch, cu ng. , 161; to prevent Honing. ie2; the soiling system with, 164; winter themselves, 171; kicking, 171; warm water for, 171; celery tops for, 172; garget in, 173. Crabs, deviled, 292. Crackers, home made, 307; oatmeal, 308. Cracks in a wall, to remove, 527. Cramp in the leg, 456; in bathing, 459, Cramps, 452. Cranberries, to keep all winter, 528, Cranberry culture, 130. Cream and cold, 226; whipped, 331; Dorcas American, 332; velvet, 332; apple, "834; chocolate, 834; caledonian 334; pineapple Bavarian, 3295 cold, 468. Creams, nee 346. cribbing, 151 Cribs, hemlock, 152, Croup, 433. Crow’s nest, 319. Crows, to banish from a field, 56. Crullers, 843. Cucumbers on trellises, 93; melons and, boxes for, 93+ melons and, early, 101; stewed, 295. Curbing, a good well, 273. Curculio, plum, destroying the, 114; INDEX, pase ree Fe leaves a remedy for the “ A ay nm, protection ay gage the, 117. ere aps 5 Capen: worn, th the, easy asec of dis- a Curtains, damask, to clean, 527. - Cushion, needle, 357. Custard, app-e, 317; coffee, 318; cream, 319; floating island, 320; lemon, 322; raspberry, 325; snow, 331. rma chocolate cream, 318, Dan Deafness, 459. Decorattig, a lesson in, 359. Desse 332; ad, 305; simple, 326: orange, cream pie and, 331. na emg to clean, 530. Diarrhcea, 433; diet during, "457. Diphtheria, 432. Discovery, a valuable, 509. Dish, an bg 2835 wiping, 506. Disinfectant, se 456, 518, Peanet, 342. , Value of, 267; a Se meenraion for, 270." Draining wet land, 271. Dress, a muslin, to wash, 480; a calico, to iro ‘on, 482. Drink, cherry effervescing, 345 cool summer, 346. pa peppermint, 347; lemon, 348, Dropsy, 450. Ear, the, ‘removing substances from, 458; the, deficiency of wax in, 458. Eau de cologne, to make, 400. sige bon ear, 357. Eee plant plant ‘stuffed, 205; Egg production, winter, 209. Eggs, packing for market, 201; and pullets, 212; preserving—several practiced meth- wats flower — ig 368; Mosaic, Emetic, a prompt, 460, Ensilage, 258 pelas Eye, dust in the, 419. Eyes, weak and ‘inflamed, 418; sore, 458; scrofalous sore, 460. Face, the, eruptions on, 466; the, black yee on, 468. Fainting, 456. Farm, a, what goes with, 259. Farmer, signs of a prosperous, 274. to dye, 492; Feet, the. relief yu 454; swelled, and ankies, 457; cold, 460; swelled, 460; hands or, blistered, 446, Felons, 429. Fences, farm, 27. Fence, straight rail, 29; , durable, 30; post and rail, 33; for marsh or soft soil, 36. Fern pick guna at — a, 405; Sores: in aye house, 403. Fe r, refuse salt as a, 65; a patent, which anybody may use, 74; clover as a, 76; bran as a, 80. Fertilizers, home a for the com: mon farmer, 59 in to, 60; r commercial, 68° versus plant food, 67; making our own, 68; application of, 14; Peter Henderson on, 77; patbg 78; ng, 79 a good nvestment, 80. Fever, scarlet, 437; coffee and typhoid, 446; chills and, 449; intermittent, salt in, 453° treatment for, 458; drink in cases of, 460, 536 INDEX. Figs, tomato, to make, 346. Fires, kerosene, 521. Fish culture for the farm, 269; ae ec 293. Fits, 45 Tass. whitening Yer 478. Flannel, to wash, 4 Flapjacks, lemon, my 823. Flat-irons, rusty, ‘to clean, 482. Fleas, to exterminate, 512. Flies, remedy for, 505; to get rid of, 524. Floors, stain for, 506; filling for cracks in, 5105 wooden, cleaning, 516; to color walnut tint, 517. Flour, care of, 522. Flowers, fresti-blown, in winter, 404; essence from, 46 cut, to preserve, 813; withered, to revive, 524, Fodder, will it pay to’ steam, 174. Food, proportions of, 172. Founder, 147. Fowl, cure for scaly legs in, 219; hashed, 287; to dress cold, 2885 a, how to dress properly, 497. Fowls, feeding hoppers for, 208; a grain- chest for, 213; gapes in, 218. Fractures, to ascertain, 457. Frames, shell, to make, 514; gilt, to cleanse, 518, Freckles, 461. Fritters, ‘hominy, 2795 apple, 315; delicious, 318; cream, 319; orange, 3203 lemon, 328; pineapple, "324s raspberry, 825; rice, 325. Frosting, gelatine, 337. Fruit gatherer, a Belgian, 112; cellars, 113; thinning, 113, growers, maxims for, 115; growers, suggestions to, 118; growing jottings, 119; preserving, 123, 525; pests, 125; canning, 495; stains, 496; jars, to prevent breaking, 499; extracts, etc., to make, 502; bottling, 509 cans, to determine if air tight, 509; jars, ‘fastening, 515; jars, to ee ag = tight, 519. Fruits, drying, Fruit tree culture, 118; errors in, 112. Fruit trees, the best time to prune, 104; roots of, 11; how to fertilize, m1; manure for, 114 insects injurious to, 115; girdling, 121; Gingerbread, muster, } 338. Fruit trees, iron for, 126. Fuchsias, 395; among roses, 409, — marble top, how to clean, to remove bruises from, 523; walnut, for oiling, 523. Furs, to clean, 492; to keep in winter, 611; to dye, 516. Game, to remove fishy taste from, 287. Garden, a good, how to make, 83; hot water on ‘the, 97; coal ash walks for the, 99; crops, rotation of, 82; house, rustic, 268. Gardens, small, seeds for, 100. Garments, white knitted, to clean, 523; linen, to whiten, 524. Gate, always ready, 30; a good farm, 31; a cheap, 32. Gates, some fancy, 82. Geese, to fatten, 220. Gems, graham, '308; oatmeal, 309; corn, 310. Geranium, golden-leaved horseshoe, Geraniums, to keep through the winter, scarlet, to preserve through the win- ter, 407; steam paths for, 411; cut back the, 411. Gilding without a battery, 503. old-fashioned, Glasses, hints about, 445. Glass, frosting, 507; to bore holes in, 508; how to cut, 510; mending, 515; to clean, 522; to remove putty from, 524; ground, to imitate, 530. Glassware, preserving, 497. Gloves, to ‘clean, 503; kid, to clean, 505; kid, to restore 519. Glue which will unite even polished steel, 504; marine, 510; ‘liquid, 519. Gold, artificial, 491; to clean, 528. Gooseberries and currants, 134, Gout, 454. Grafting wax, 108. Grain chest, mice in the, 276. Graining, to wash, 499. Grapes, keeping, 127; keeping in cellars, 127; keeping in winter, 128; hardy, culture of, 129. Grape, the, how to prune, 128. Grape vines, winter care of, 127; bleeding, 129. Grasses, crystallizing, 410. Gravel walks, weeds on, 102, ~ INDEX. flog cholera, 178; Gravy, thick, 286. Grease, to remove, 514; to take out of velvet, 520; to remove from a stove hearth, 520 baking griddle cakes without, "528. Green fy, the remedy for, 98. Green house, a miniature, 397. Ground moles, trapping, 262. Grubs, to get rid of, 98. Guano, home made, 79. Gum-boil or weakness of the gums, 459. Hair, gra. the, to prevent falling off, 462; the, pomade for, 465; the, rose bandoline for, 466; oe 469; oe ote , e, oil of roses restorative, 470 the, wash le 4 470; brushes and combs, to clean, 505; to re-color, 528. Hairs, superfiuous, to remove, 442. Halibi broil, 293. 470; Hammoc a, how to make, 496. Hams, how to cure, 272; ng, "O75; preserve fies, 602 Handkerchief, a pin c, to wash, 480. Handkerchiefs, gt = 470. Hands, to soften, 463 the, to whiten, 463; ened. 466; the, to remove tar from, 522. ess b a good wneevantias oh about, 276. Harp, an sollan, to make, 487. Hash, vegetable, Hassock, a home made, 353. Hatching period, the, 204. Hats, cleaning, 522. Hay, clover, cutting, 55 making—a good siggestion, 553 elevating apparatus, 242. Headache, 425. Health, dieting for, 420. Heartburn, 451. Heaves, 1 Heifer ora — cow, a, how to break to milk, 166. Hemorrhage, 447. Hennery, a model, 190; road-dust for the, 220. Hens, milk for, 2m H ness, 449. pe ae the philosophy of, 53; small ¢ = for, 247. raising, economy a 183, Hogs, charcoal for, as producers of meatie: 181; peer oe for sreneinening, eeping clean, 182; hay for, 183; roots for, 183; 182; Honeysuckle, Daten, in the house, 398. Horn, hollow, 168; brittlen ‘treatment of, 170. Horns, ng, 1 mam oa aoe 131: orse, how to ju feed for the, 137 * balky, cure for, 42; a hi e-bound, to recruit, 152. a age Sy fa tell a, 150. orses, to break from m pulling at the halter, 141; warts on, 141 peace 12; vicious, Fea ETS 143; galls _ sores On, 144; 45: reining, colic in, 146; e tic in, 148; qo Mg shying, 148; , to cool when — 152; and bruises in, 152; worms in, 153; best method of cleaning, 153. Horseshoe, a convenient, 140. Horse’s legs, care of, 150. Hot slaw, 306. Housekeeper, what an old has learned, Husking, 45. Hydrophobia, 447; to prevent, 4h. Hysterics, 443. Ice Cream, French Lag 7: 3435 crushed ‘strawberry, 343 coffee, lemon, 344; Italian orange, 344. Ice, making and keeping, 255; orange, 344; lemon-water, 344; red currant fruit, 344; raspberry water, "344. Icing, chocolate, 342. oc farm, bea Bas — ncu tors, good an cheap, 197. Indigestio : oy on boo! . e08: m carpets, 515; black, 515; indelible marking, 520; 538 Ink stains on furniture, 521. insect destroyer, potato juice as an,102; kerosene an, 117. Insecticide, a simple, 514, Insertions, ‘knitted, 366. Troners, hints to, 479; Iron, the, to prevent from sticking, 481; to prevent from rusting, 524. Irrigation, an easy method of, 186. Ivory, to whiten, 530. Ivy, English, treatment of, 408, Jam, raspberry, 313; white currant, 313; blackberry, 314; apple, 315; gooseberry, 315. Jaundice, 454. Jaws, sensitive, 153. Jellies without ‘fruit, 314, Jelly, Russian, for invalids, 8115 chicken, 311} mock champagne, 3125 apple, 812; orange, 312: uncooked currant, 313; calf’s foot, 313; coffee, , 3135 gooseberry, 314; ~plackberry, 814; crab apple, 314; lemon, 314; currant 315; tapioca, 315; isinglass, 315; . gooseberry, 3155 cranberry, 315; mold on, 521; molds, 529, Jewelry, gilt, to clean, 513; to brighte n, 520. Jumbles, cnoeolats, 339, Kettles, new, 523; crust’ in, 529; tin, to improve, 530. Keys, how to fit into locks, 505, Kisses, 340. Kitchen floors, grease on, 503. Knock-knees, "454, Labor-saving’ invention, a, 511. Lace, antique, 359; spread, a handsome, 361; curtains, washing, 471; to wash, "A755 black, to clean, 504; black, to freshen, 520. Lady fingers, 339, Lamb, mint sauce for, 288; delicious flavor to, 389, Lambs, early, 187. Lamp shade, 369; explosions, 506; chimneys, ‘cleaning, 5103 burners, old, to clean, 529, Lamps, to clean, 527. Langshans, the, "220, Lard, rancid, to sweeten, 530, Laundry, the, hints for, 478, Lavender water, 468. Lawn, rustic seats for the, 265. saw Bs, salt and plaster on, 80; INDEX. Lawns, improving, 275. to wash, 479. Laxatives, 458. Layers, how to produce, 213. Leather, to render waterproof, 498, Lemonade ginger, 345; orangeade or, 345; effervescing, 346; milk, 346. Lemon float, 330; eel, candied, 34s; eaves, use of, 521. Lemons. medical qualities of, 421, Limbs, frozen, 460; Lime, a few words about, 58, Linen, men’s, doing up, 476; how to gloss, 476; to bleach, 479; scorched, 480; to whiten, 4803 to remove rust from, 480; / yellow, to whiten, 431; colored table, to wash, 482 cotton or, waterproof te A for, 520; to perfume, 528. Linens, black or navy blue, percales, ete., for washing, 479. Lip salve, 470. Lips, chapped, cure for, 470. Liquor appetite, 434, Liver, stewed, 288; fried as cutlets, "290; a good way to cook, 2905 complaint, for, 452. Lockjaw, 448, Looking ‘glasses, to clean, 513. Lungs, te ascertain the state of the, 443; the, to protect from dust, 456, Macaroni, 295; cheese, 297. Macaroons, 342; hickorynut, 340. Mackerel, broiled, 293. Malaria, preventives of, 412. Manure, composting, 63; Salt as a, 64; what a pint did, 70; how to double the usual quantity of on the farm, 71; advantages of sheltering, f25 liquid, for gardening, 73; value of home-made, 153) for almost nothing, 77; - poultry, 77; liquid, 78; how to apply, 785 spreading, 78 mixing in winter, 78; alternating, 79; hen, how, to use, 795 a good garden, 80. Manures, variation in, 61; home-made vs. commercial, 69; reen, 72; ow to keep and spread, 75, Marble, to clean, 517. Mares, ‘working in foal, 145, Marmalade, orange, 813; plum, 314; quince, 314. a Meat, recipe for curing, 267; ned aeke tendon” 233;” vy sgn to keep, 508. ure, 503. Mcloa Solters’ hints on, 92; Squash culture .experimentsin, 92; worm, the, 95. Menstruati ation, eS anodyne for, uniking, apparatus for. ke amalicin ta in, 229, oe taste on in, 168; , rrr tter, 230 hot, as a i as 460; to keep, 527. Mink, skunk, ete., Moana the, 260. Mirrors, fin finger marks on, 530, Mixture, a valuable, 98. Mosquito remedy, 499. Moth patches, 468, as choes sane against, 485; Monso-tnies to stop, 690. ean uck, experience 0. Muffins, hominy, 277; corn, 277; vaaauite of, 135. buttermi Mulching, ch, 305. ro cutlets in the Portuguese way, ; scrambled, 289. Nails, ‘into’ hard wood, 273, arivine ot si = learrcanadin 4: 415. Nests, how should be made, 220; Oil ¢ clo oe how to clean, 511% othe, ow to ¢ use of, 270. i cnetanies how to detect, 23L Omelet, 279; 288; oyster, 290; tomato and onion, 299; caulifiower, 301. Onion , 90. Inethod of raising, 91; Onions, eg fe INDEX. eek on bending down, 101; ae compote of, 231; - €O Orchard, management, 111; how to renew an, 112; ants in the, 124; a a 7303, 405, en or, Ottoman, 364. sa 293, 305. Pail, coer aa to take the woody tastr out 0} Paint, for farmers, 274; for one centa poun 275; to remove from a w: 1, 520; volatile soap for removing, 527. Pancakes, French, 278; egg, mig tomate tater, 8 Pansy, how to grow the. 407. ee — Pays 518. to take agi m, Parsley, 94. Partridge, roast, 288. Partridges, bread sauce for, 288. Paste, almond, 469; a good, 499; for cleaning knives, 513; for removing grease from silk, 518. Pastry, magic, 322; to ice, 323. Pasture lands, ae Mttnacaetes Peaches, spiced, 31. and plums, pickled, 315; with rice, 330. Peach trees, pruning, 106; diseased, lis; borer, the, 118. Pear culture, points on, 109; blight and ‘peach yellows, ‘5; blight, protection against, 117; trees, to preserve from blight, 125. Pears, what shall I grow, 120; hints on marketing, 124 apples and, hints on ay 125. ‘oer % gee to preserve for winter use, ena to improve, 517; steel, to preserve, 527. Pen wiper, 357. Perspiration, odor from, 457. Pests, insect, to destroy, 506. Piano, a ~ gape On a, 530, Pickle, egg, 30: Pickles, fine eee: 301; ' sweet cucumber, 304; GAG INDEX. Pickles, sweet, 306; to improve, 522. Picture frames, ivy for, 381. Pie-crust without lard, 3285 oat-meal, 328, Pie, pigeon, 286; French chicken, 287; mutton, 289; Cornish fish, 293; tomato, 296; potato, 298; apple meringue, 3273 cherry, 327; cream, 327; custard, 327; mock lemon, 328; Beverly, 328; corn-starch ‘custard, 328; lemon, 328; lemon meringue, 328; apple custard, 328; rhubarb cream, 3295 orange, 329; butter milk, "329; rice, 329; pumpkin, 329; Marlborough, 329; Washington, 329; cocoanut, 329; peach, 329; prune, 329; banana, 334, Pies, spring mince, 327, Piggery, a winter, i74. Pig ra si ng, 175; sty, a good, 178; the, as a plowman, 179; scraping table, 181; a, how to give “medicine, 182. Pigs, phosphates essential to, 181; paralysis in, 183; scurvy, 183." Piles, 459. Pillow sham, 353. Pimples, 464, Pincushion, 374; toilet, 35' pincappion, to preserve in slices, 311. Pine work, to improve, 515. Pip, to cure, 212 Plant, basket, a beautiful, 398; stand, a cheap, 405; a novel house, 409; fertilizers, 411. Plants, protecting young, 98; starting early, 100 room, diseases of, ’381; how to kill insects on, 387; ammonia for, 388; to prepare for winter, 301; house, selection of, 392; soil for, 392; sickly, hot-water cur® for, 303; the mud har ee of slipping, 304; novel method of enriching, '397; house, growing in moss, 398; some new, offered by German florists, 309; house, 406; trellis "for, 407; Plants, to re-pot, 408; frozen, 409; potting and watering, 4005 tender, covering for, 409; moving, 410; watering, 410; starting, 411. Plaster and ashes, use of, 69. Plow attachment, coulter cleaning, 248 hand, 253. Plowing, yr tae eee? in, 51; early or late fall, 5 Plums, a Be roti a growers of, 114; Plush mosaic, 365; thermometer frame, 373; to clean, 509. Pneumonia, 412. Poisoning, ivy, 437. Poisons, antidotes for, 413. Polish, furniture, 4895" erent au ther, 504 glycerine leather. i: dressing, for leather, French, 504; stove, to improve, 520. woe to sugar or crystallize, 347; lis Pop-overs, 324, Portfolio, music, and stand, 3583 hanging, 873. Post driver, spile or, 246. Posts, easy "method of taking up, 33. Potash, the work of, 74. Potato ‘culture, 45; disease, the, ‘43; bugs, new rane for, 51; dumpli ngs, 296 croquettes, 298; snow, jad puffs, 300 fritters, 3005 balls, 301. 4 Potatoes, phosphate for, 46; methods of raising, 48; points about, 50; getting early, 50; raising, 50; in winter, bl; combining different varieties of, 575 nitrogen for, 79; boiling, 294 Snap beans and, 294; Saratoga, 295; ala Duchesse, 297; fried whole, 298; fried with butter, 2995 fried, 299; scalloped, 300; os 300; repare for breakfast, 301. Potp e, peach, 324. Poultry ouse for ie a, 190; heuse, movable, 1 house, model, Sods keeping for profit, 203; house, a rustic, 204 packing for cnaiket 2055 raising as a business, 206; on a large scale, 207; raising, successful, 311; fish for, 212; 4 al i es deciduous trees, 103; versus mutilation, 105; bird’s 7; es plum, 317; chocolate, 318; 322; pent a mon me lemon, 323; ween mountain dew, 323; uff, ‘quick, 334; Sweet potats, 324; steam 324; Pud 324. ag og “tem, 0; 317; h, 333. ee ee petroleum in, 452; Purse, Medica! fen fancy bag, 371. ueen’s wing, clipping the, 237. t lining, 369. — sharpening Rectum, worms in the, 153. Refrigerator, an home made, 493; Rheumatism, 416; inflammatory, 451. Ribbons, to clean, 518; how to to smooth, 524. Roll, piaharry, a fruit, 321. Roller and vibrating harrow, combined, 241. = oe, 308; breakfast, without soda, 309; ht, 309. Role poll — 323. Roofs, ra sane, rf parti Roof, to cena am an "old, 27 ? ieee annie way to dis- a, to partly, & 513. Roots, raising, 54; sto. a Rose culture, 390. otto of, 467; French milk of, 470. Rosette, a, 363. Rosettes, 308. Roup, 219. Persian, made at home, 351. tea, 310. foe bright grates or fire irons to prevent in tinware, 519; . 370. Salad, delicious beet, 302; celery, 302; potato, 302; chicken, 302; 542 Salad, how to dress, 303; lobster, 303; aang , 085 tomato, 30. herring, 304 cabbage, 304; German, 304; carrot, 304; winter, 304; ham, 305; dressing, 805; fruit, 306; cucumber, 306; orange, 334. Sallie Lunn, 326, Salmon, broiled, 291; croquettes, 292. Salt rheum, 456. Sand hearts, 335. Sandwiches, egg, 31 Sauce pans, een. to whiten, 518. Sauce, piquante, 285; a brown, 286; crab, 292; piquante for fish, 294; fish, 294; celery, 299; Robe 299; tomato, 300; horse*radish, 8003 Chili, 306 delicious ‘apple, 817; cranberry, 318; egg, 320; for ginger pudding, 321; hard, for puddings, 322; molasses, 328, maple sugar, "323; pudding, 326; a fine | udding, 326; wine, for Ean "327. Scald he a table 378. , Selle, 44 to sharpen, 521. ‘Scorch, for taking out, 482. Scraper, Thomas’ no- patent, 250; a good, 251. Screen, how to make @, 359; an ivy, 401. Scrofula, 448. Seurf, 451, Seasickness, preventive of, 455. Seed, quantity of, to an acre, 53. Seeds, ga 53; saving, 81 flower, autumn sowin of, 407; to keep from the depre ations ofmice, Shade,extempore, forreading lamps, 502. Sham champagne, 345. Sham a liquid, 470. Shawl, crocheted, 371. Shawls, Shetland; to wash, 478; white worsted, to clean, "482 Sheep, hurdling, 184; raising feed oY, 185; to tell the age of, 1853 ticks—how to get rid of them, 186; how to make pay, Br: INDEX. Sheep, feed rack for, 188; why profitable, 188; tar the noses of, 189; poisoned, to cure, 139; crossing Merino on common, 189, Sherbet, berry, 345. Shoeing, ignorance in, 152. Shoe soles, how to preserve, 516, Shoes; white kid, to clean, 519. Shortbread, Scotch, 308. Shortcake, strawberry, 325, Shorthorns, hints to breeders of, 153. Sick, how people get, 453. Silks, to restore the color of, 528. Silk, ‘to determine the quality of, 495; cleaning black, 501. Silo, a, new way with, 264. Silver ‘plate, to clean, "500; wash, celebrated recipe for, 523. Silverware, to prevent from tarnishing 495. Skeleton leaves, to prepare, 361. Skunks, to get rid of, 219. Sleeplessness, 439. Slipper, knitted dressing, 376. Small fruits, fall setting of, 135; easy method of cultivating, 135. Small pox, 438. Smilax for a curtain, 393; how to grow, 403. Smoke houses, 256. Snake bites, 458. Snaps, ginger, 340; coffee, 341, Snow balls, 333. Snowflake, "983. Snow plow, a, 252. Soap suds, 16; toilet, 469; to save, 481; hard, 527. Sofa pillow, 3653 coverings, cleansing, 512. Soils, the fertility of, 72. Soil, ‘the, how to enrich, 625 improving light, 78. Soldering and tinning, fluid for, 503, Something nice, 304. Soup, asparagus, 280; potato, 280; green pea, 281; cream-of-rice, 281; chieken cream, 281; Saturday, 281; caulifiower, 281; minute, 281; veal cream, 281; macaroni, 282, beef, 282; one day, "082; mutton, 282; oultry, 282; ean, 282; . julienne, 282; ‘ codfish, 282; : vegetable, 2825 , tomato, 283; aa hfs) summer, 2833 : 4 plain, 283; 3 =. okra, 283; f a —_ — ee a e INDEX. 543 Soup, clam, 293. Stumps, b' 273. 459. . — = the 45L. Spavin and ringbone, cure for, 149. Succotash, a aA Sugar, save your, =n me coo ns, gene those intending ~ 332. build, Sponge drops, 341; Sunburn, 465. garden, = Sunstroke, 454; 517. to prevent, 457. ng, to nt, 481. Superph yore I eae ate, 76. Sprains and men 418. Swallow. protec in cg gfe Squash culture, 92. iow to catche 240. stuffed, 295; oder 512. scalloped, 298. weet potatoes, how to keep, 49. Squashes, keeping winte Swill, poisonons, 183. Stable floors, best material for, 148. Swine, sanitary management of, 177; Stables, sawdust for, 151; preparing food for, 181; horse, flies in, 152. raising, 182. ning woods, 487. Syllabub, Staffordshire, 345. Stains and spots, for the removal of, % ate remove from the hands, ete., 509; to remove from broadcloth, 516; to take from marble, 516; a home made msaer. 410. Starch, gum arabic, 479; _ to prevent lumps i n, 481; potato, to make, 481; alum in, 481. , the right way to cook, 290. articles, zn. clean, 516. w, Irish, a ctf 379. Sapavetier ir toy P food Fock fo for, 1 - _‘Semng, slece applied to, 155 t ‘mixing hay for, 172; re _ ¢arrots for, 172; verfeeding, 176. kings, faded blue, to restore, 482; - to color blue, 515. Pieeia abi, sickness of, 448; acid a. Shove, ‘clinkers in a, to destroy, 527; cad to aa a fine, brilliant appearance, ome ‘for rusty, 530; Stoves, to blacken, 523. Strawberries, preparing soil for, 131; nto plant, 131; ering, 132; tivation of, 133. Strawberry vines, winter protection of, 136; bed, setting a, 136. Straw, how to stack, 38: Streaking, vent. 430. Stumps, the tand of, 262; Dlastin Ee ak ey * Syrup, lemon, 312. : Table covers, ‘ete., 354; etiquette, 488; for housewives, a useful, 516. Tables, to remove marks from, 523. Taffy, sugar, 347. Tart, orange, 333. Telephone, a cheap, to make, 499, Tetter, 459. Throat, sore, 419; foreign bodies in the, 460. Tidy, a pretty, 350 crochet macrame, 352. Tinware, to clean, 528. Toads, a good word for, 275. Toast, tomato, 301; French, 309. Tobacco Ceuti, about, 56; sulphur and, 99; cultivation of, 100; antidote, 457. Toe nails, ingrowing, 446. Tomato culture, 89; —— training, 90; < i. butte x patel late, 90; training, 101; excellent I to cook, 296; scalloped, 299 onions and, 299; baked, for breakfast, 300; fried, 301; preserved, 306. Tongue, pickled, 287; cold on toast, 289; boiled, 290; roasted, 290. Tongues, ‘how to pickle, 288, Tool, a convenient, 247; house, a farm, 248. Tools, home made, 243; farm, keep sharp, 254. Toothache, 417. Top-dressing, 73; bone dust for, 73; in winter, 80; Towels, should be thoroughly dried, 133; the care of, 507. Transparency, floral, 367. 544 Transplanting, 83. Traps, weasel, rat and vermin, 260. Tread power, improved, 244, ~Trees, large ‘transplanting, 108; care of after transplanting, 109; vines and, waste bones for, 110; protection of, 113; njuries to, 117; young, ants on, 118; covering for wounds of, 122; top grafting, 124. Trellis, a cheap, 129. Trifle, gooseberry, 331; German, 333. Tripe ala "Lyonaise with tomatoes, 285. Trough, convenient, 175; a convenient feeding, ‘. Troughs, iron hog, 180. Tuberose, the, 396. Turkeys, ‘how to fatten, 213; raising, 218. Turnips, stuffed, 295, Ulcess, 455, Umbrellas, care of, 508. Varnish, jet black, 505. Vase, a living, 402. Veal ‘cutlets, 284; minced and eggs, 2855 Scollop, 286; Spiced, 288; fillet of, boiled, 289; sausages, 289, Vegetables, the best garden; 81; insects on garden, 96. Vegetable substances, value of, 79. Veils, black, to clean, 521. Vewet, to clean, 500; to restore the’ pile’ of, 514; care of, 526. Ventilation, 459. Verbena, the, 395. Vermin, to eradicate, 524. Vessel, an oily, to clean, §12. Vessels, to purify, 518. Vinegar, 517; Sorgo, how to make, 268; clover, 305. Vineyard, in the, 126. Wafers, oatmeal, 309; graham, 309. Waffles, 327; delicious, 278. Wagon wheels, gas tar for, 276. Waiters, japanned, to en, 515. Wall papel, hanging, 488 hew to clean, 502. INDEX. a Wall pocket, 367. oa Walls, painting and kalsomining, 510. Wardian case, ornamental, 389, Wardian cases, 404. Warts, 423. Washing machine, a, 471; merinos and silk, 480; i woolens, 480. Water, hot, as a remedy, 442; to purify, 514; to soften, 523. Watermelon culture, a new method of, tea, dish, 331. Weeding implement, is 249. Weeds, 56; late, 5 Weights and measures, 334; housekeeper’s, 526. Wells, removing carbonic acid gas or foul air from, 275. Wheat, harvesting, 37; shocks, 37; fields draining, 395 weevil in, 39; maxims in small compass, 40; nitrate of soda for, 79. White goods, to clean, 519. bide te ‘for buildings and fences, that Will stick, 278; glazed, 521. Whooping cough, 421. | Wild cherry, grafting the, 108. Windgalls or puffs, 151. Window gardening, 384. Windows, to et ae 520. Woodenware, io prevent from crack- ing, 512. Wood, to render uninflammable, 275; the, to remove a screw rusted ‘in, 529, Woodwork, to cleanse, 500 Woolen articles, how to ae a finish to, Wool, increasing the ERO of, 189. Work stand, ladies, Work table cover, rie Worms, 423. Wounds, 417. Yeast, railroad, 309. Zephyr, white, te clean articles made of, 5 Zinc, to clean, oR. as > Shee ss piven rare o ae ieee ea set Say ne ae ses =~ = Sencar Sense oot Sees = as i . $f ae tt ) prates ES BERS Te Gay Fete Vasa sMeN caer - a awit = suite ae Spero) tie eee : ats Sheets ORS Se meri " tac Se Sate <. = eS se. fis : oe ata aes en ool yee fo iat ENA “he Bea es : Deel iene ales ae aah Ae ifs teri iy ee PRET APIN TA eS ESS BAB Sree ist! iS ree ie IAP, babes biane eae i Rie Daa eee : eaees ; Sai be oe ¥ a ‘ Bo ER SORTS) 4 ae Sti ee ey ey ees aU vas 5 eee CN fohy sites v WY, NaS it AVS Aer Hight We ied ¥ be j acts wey j a Ae aE S i ee a peite ia Ne 4 We A cen eae tay be Oty x bigs 7 estar