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I
THE
FLORAL WORLD
GARDEN GUIDE.
EDITED
BY
SHIRLEY HIBBERD, ESQ., F.R.H.S.
180?.
l^^ ^^ tht >
NEW YO^ ?t
londo:n':
GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS,
5, PATEENOSTE-R ROW.
HAEEItr, P^_^fB, L05E02r.
INDEX.
PAGE
Acacia 43
Achimenes 126
Adiantums, greenhouse and hardy 169
AdiantTuns for cases 173
Adiantams of the stove 195
Adiantom pedatum 37
AilantM-cultare 287
Alpine strawberry 63
Altemanthera paronychioides 50
Amarantlms melancholicos 51, 107
American mode of growing black-
berries 122
Anaectocbilus setacens, rival to 46
Angular prickly shield fern 273
Annuals for the greenliouse in early
spring 250
Antennaria tomentosa 50
Arab'a papyrifera 167
Arcanum of perpetual beauty 97
Areca. Bauerii 69
Artemisia annua 107
Artemisia argentea 7. 51
Artichoke 291
Artificial stone for gardens 193
Art of increasing plants by cuttings 73
Arundinaria falcata 166
Arundo conspicua 51,107,165
Asparagus 292
Asplenium angustifolium 37
Asplenium ebeneum 38
Aspidistra luriJa variegata 216
Aster for exhibition and decoration 116
Athyrium asplenoides 3S
Aucuba berries 159
Aucuba Hinialaica 192
Aucuba Japonica 134
Aucubas 235
Auricula 10, 47, 102, 294
Azalea suckers 126
Bambusa Fortunei 237
Barberry hedge 54
Beans 331
Bedders, a few select 209
Bedders, few of the most effective
flowering 71
Bedders, superb variegated-leaved 49
Bedding combination 152
Beet-root 132
Berberidopsis coraUina 236
Berberis 190
PAGB
Berberis Japonica, concinna, For-
tunei, etc 345
Biennial lifting of miniature finait-
trees 87
Bit of gossip on herbaceous plants 26
Bocconia 107
Border for roses 351
Borecole or kale 332
Boronias 273
Bourbon roses 81
Braheadulcis 70
Briers for budding • 321
British Queen strawberry, cultiva-
tion of ' 40
Bulbous flowers in the garden,
squares, and puMic walks of
large towns 313
Btilbs for windows and greenhouses 21
Burrs used for rockery 4
Cacti, on the cultivation of the ... 366
Caladiums 67, 127
Calceolarias 71, 2S1
Camellia house 64
Camellias, six foot 353
Cannas 16
Caraganas 8
Carnations « 155
Caryotaurens 70
Cassia 43
Caught napping 55
Chamaedorea atrovirens 70
Chamadorea elatior 70
Chamaepuce diacantha _ 109
Chamaerops excelsa 69
Chamserops Fortunei 69
Chamaerops himiilis 69
Chapter for ladies on gathering and
arranging flowers 185
Charcoal in pots 64
Charlock 288
Cherry and plum-tree grafts failing 357
Choice garden, notes for 14
Chorozema 272
Chrysanthemum Sensation 49
Chrysanthemums 63
Chrysanthemums in pots, eidtivated
for exhibition 21
Chrysanthemums, selection of 93
Chrysanthemum in 1867, the 353
Cineraria 122
IV
INDEX.
FA6B
Clematis lanuginosa 7
Cocoa-nut fibre refuse for orchids 215
Cocos australis 70
Coleus Verscbatielti 51
Collectinsr and selecting 65
Colours of trees in autumn 299
Conifers for the flower-garden, and
its immediate surroundings . . . 308
Constitution, soil, and general treat-
ment of the auricula 10
Convolvulus mauritanicus 72
Cooking sea-kale 96
Cosmelia rubra 272
Crambe cordifoUa 166
Crinum capense 167
Cuttings, art of increasing plants by 73
Cuttings in cocoa-nut fibre 63
Cyperus 4A
Cyrtoraium caryotideum 38
Cyrtomium falcatum 38
DactyKs glomerata 50
Dahlia cultivation 141
Dahlia Imperialis 210
Dahlias 71
Dahlias, selection of fifty 125
Daisy, the 78
Datura 42
Daubentonia 44
Davaliias 191
Delphinium formosum 167
Dendrobium moniliforme 62
Designs for select beds of hardy
pknts 280
Diosma capitata 272
Double Clitoria tematea 288
Double white sweet pea 127
Dracaena australis 167
Early-flowering plants for the
greenhouse 271
Effects of the past winter 164
Eleagnus reflexus 236
Elymus glauca 168
English fruit-growing 289
Epacris 272
Equisetum 204
Eranthemum pulcheUum 278
Erythrina 42
Eucharis amazonica 159
Euonjrmus latif olia aurea 236
Enonymus radicans variegata 236
Eurya latif olia variegat a 236
Eutaxia myrtif oHa 272
Evergreen for windows 61
Evergreen shrubs for a border 350
Extenso grape vines 302
Fabiana imbricata 272
Failures in small gardens 257
Ferdinandia emicus 110
Ferns and fern cases 83, 96
Ferns from spores 61
Ferns, hardy exotic 35
Ferula commimis 109
Few of the most effective flowering
bedders 71
Fifty spring flowers 127
FA.OS
Finger-post f orpurchasers of plants,
seeds, etc., 92, 125, 154, 283,
315, 348.
Flowering of the yucca for the pur-
pose of display 85
Forcing sea-kale 19
Forcing strawberries 350
Fourcrova longaeva 251
Fruit crop of 1867 161
Fruit-growing in England 289
Fruit-trees on poor soils 69
Fruit prospects 325
Fuchsia cultivation 181
Fuchsia Golden Fleece 328
Fuchsias, selection of 92
Garden designs, picturesque 321
Garden Guide. 31, 95, 125, 157, i87>
218, 252, 285, 319,1349, 374.
Garden Oracle for 1867 58
Garden walks 256
Gathering a fern 287
Gatherings from exhibitions ... 219,253
Grazania splendens 72
Genetyllis and hedaroma 127
Generic distinction between cala-
dium and alocasia 126
Genista 273
Geranium Brilliantissima 209
Geraniums 71, 154
Gesnera zebrina 52
Gladioli ■. 233
Gladioli, hints on the cultivation of 86
Gladioli, selection of 94
Glance at the rosery 296
Globe amaranthus, culture of 77
Golden Balm 50
Golden Feather pyrethrum 209
Goldfinch geranium 209
Grafting the grape vine 213
Grafting vines 376
Grr; 'J vines 302
Gre.i -edged auricula 104
Greenhouse construction 158
Greenhouse and hardy adiantums 169
Greenhouse spring-flowers 24
Greenhouse plants in winter, pre-
servation of 363
Grevillea 45
Grev-edged auricula 104
Ground vinery 120, 158,190
Gymnogrammas 216
Hsemony ,., 376
Hardiness of salsify 192
Hard- wooded plants 159
Hardy adiantums 172
Hardy and nearly hardy plants 68
Hardy deciduous trees 53
Hardy exotic ferns 35
Hardy flowers of the year 333
Hardy herbaceous plants 27, 56, 64, 191
Hardy plants for the flower-garden 165
Heating a small plant-house 126
Heating with a flue 160
Hedera Algeriensis 7
Hedge plant, barberry 54
Heliotropes .'. 72
INDEX.
PAGE
Heracleum ^ganteum 168
Herbaceous hardy plants 27
Herbaceous plants, a bit of gossip
on 26
Herbaceous plants easy of culture
in all parts of the British, isles 111
Herbaceous plants for rockeries ... 8
Hints on plant-growing in living
rooms 174
Home-grown briers for budding ... 321
Horticultural affairs 88
Hortus fenestralis 129
How to obtain cuttings 73
Hyacinths 315
Hybrid perpetuals 80
Iberis, or candytuft 335
Impataens jerdonise 147
Ilex Fortunei 236
Inarching vines 176
Iresine herbstii 50
Ivies, variegated 50
Ivy-leaved geranium, L' elegante ... 209
Ivy, some uses of 146
Ixias and tritomas 233
Japanese plants suitable for Eng-
lish gardens 235
Jasminum nudiilorum 7
Kennedia monophylla 273
Lantana,s 72
Lapageria rosea 352
Large-flowering pelargoniums 233
Lastrea semula 237
Lastrea f. m., var. grandiceps 277
Lastrea Goldieana 38
Lastrea marginahs 38
Lastrea noveboracensis 38
Lastrea Sieboldii 38
Latania Bourbonica 69
Leaf impressions, how to take 208
Lechenaultia formosa 273
Leicester garden vase 350
Ligularia gigantea 168
LiHum auratum 166
Lilium eximium 320
Lilium giganteura 166
List of hardy deciduous trees 53
LobeHa erinus, Miss Murphy 210
Lobelia erinus spectabilis 210
Lobelia, Indigo Blue 328
Lobelias 233
Lomaria Chilensis 39
Lomaria MageUanica 39
Lonicera brachypoda reticulata ... 7
Loudon's Hortus Brittanicus 96
Love-lies-bleeding 107
Luculia gratissima 342
Management of wiadow plants . . . 239
Maxims on propagating 70
Mignonette 250
ilildewed vines 350
Moss on gravel walks 95
Mushrooms under the greenhouse
stage 207
PAGB
Mushroom cultivation 148
Myosotis sylvatica 32
Xemophila insignis 250
New plants, 29, 61, 90, 123, 156, 187, 217
252, 284, 317, 346, 372.
New roses of this and last year ... 177
Xicotiana 16
Xierembergia .gracilis 73
Noble hardy plants for the flower
garden 105
Nosegay geraniums 327
Notes on Messrs. F. and A. Smith's
tricolor and bronze zonale ge-
raniums 267
Notes on new bedding plants 327
CEnothera prostrata 72
On some nearly hardy exotic ferns 35
Orange culture 278
Osmanthus ihcifoHa 236
Osmunda cinnamomea 39
Oxylobium retusum 273
Pampas grass 126,165
Pansy cultivation 144
Pansy, Imperial Blue 329
Pansies 154
Papaver pulcherrimum 168
Paris Exhibition 157
Paul's rose garden 221
Peach-houses and peach-trees that
have fruited 344
Peaches and nectarines without
walls or glass 329
Pelargonium culture 150
Pelargoniums 155
Perennial cucumber 109
Petunias 73
Phlox 267
Phlox as a bedding plant 331
Phoenix dactylifera 70
Phormium tenax 167
Phytolacca decandra 167
Picotees 155
Picotees, carnations, etc 128
Picturesque ia garden designs 321
Pimelea 272
Pinching and pruning 375.
Pinks 156
Plant-growing in living-room 174
Planting ground vineries 95
Planting on a bank 287
Planting pincushion-beds 63
Plants adapted for the plunging
system 230
Plants destroyed mysteriously 64
Plants for rockeries 7
Pleopeltis lycopodioides 83
Pleopeltis membranacea 83
Pleopeltis pustulata 83
Pleopeltis terminalis 83
Plunging system 97, 158
Poa trivialis 50
Poa trivialis argentea 210
Polystichum angulare 113, 275
Polystichum pungens 39
Potatoes 128
INDEX.
FAGB
Potting the cuttings 75
Pot vines, raising and fruiting 58
Preser^^ng fruit, advice on 369
Prince's Feather 107
Propagating, maxims on 76
Propagation and preservation of
bedding plants 218
Pruning 'ijo
Pruning nut-trees 62
Pruning vines 63
Pultcnia stricta 272
Pyrethritm, Golden Feather 328
Eaising and fruiting pot vines, as
practised in England 58
Eambling thoughts 279
Raspberry and blackberry, the 359
Retinospora lycopodioides 236
Retinospora obtusa 236
Rheum emodi 168
Rhododendrons 191
Rhododendrons, propagating 352
Rhubarb cultivation from early sup-
plies 79
Rhus cotinus 7
Rhyncospermum jasminoides 159
Ricinus 46
Rival to Ansectochilus setaceus ... 46
Rockery at Stoke NeTvington 3
Rockeries, plants for 7
Rose in a tub 319
Rosery, glance at 296
Rosmarinus officinalis 7
Roses in 1867 80,226
Roses, new, of this and last year . . . 177
Roses on Manetti stocks 351
Roses, three groups of good 338
Roses, winter propagation of 25
Sabal Adamsonii 70
Salading during the summer 133
Salsafy, cultivation of 110
Santolina incana 50
Schizanthus pinnata 251
Scorzonera 159
Scotch thistle 109
Seaf orthia elegans 70
Sea-kale, its culture, with remarks
onforcingit 19
Sedum spectabile 234
Seedling roses 62
Seeds and seedHngs of auricula ... 47
Seeds to be grown in month of July 211
Select bedders 209
Select bedding combination 152
Selection of vegetables for 1867 ... 89
Selection of first-class herbaceous
plants of easy culture in all
parts of the British isles Ill
Selfs, auricula 103
Sensitive plant 307
September work in the flower
garden 264
Shadyborder 320
Shrubs and flowers which thrive
under the drip of trees 308
Skimmias and their cultivation 199
Snowdrops on grass lawns 307
PAGB
s manure 94
Soil for the auricula 10
Solanmns 15
Spring flowers for -windows, green-
houses, and choice flower-beds 24
Standard wallflowers 288
Stove for plant-house 158
Strawberry, British Queen 40
Strawberries, jjlanting 17
Strawberries, the best 304
Striking plants to be grown from
seed for the choice garden 106
Striped-leaved maize 110
Struthiopteris Germanica 39
Sub-tropical plants 159
Sub-tropical plants for the choice
garden 67
Sub-tropical plants that may be
grown from seed 14
Sub-tropicals that may be ^own.
from seed 42
Succulents for rockeries 9
Summer salading 13^
Superb variegated-leaved bedders 49
TaUlobelias 234
Tansy 233
Tea- scented roses 60
Tender pahns 70
Three groups of good roses 338
Thrip on greenhouse ferns 351
Thinning the crop of fruits in the
orchard-house 118
Thrinas parviflora 70
Thujopsis dolabrata 236
Todea hymenophylloides 8S
Transplanting trees 310
Treatment of Luculia gratissima ... 342
Tricolor and bronze zonule ge-
raniums 267
Tricolor geraniums 283
Tricolor-leaved pelargoniums 245
Tritoma uvaria 165
Tropseolum Advancer 209
Tropseolums 72
TropaBolums, King of Scarlets and
Scarlet Gem 190
Uses of the ivy 146
Value of cocoa-nut fibre refuse in
the cultivation of orchids 215
Variegated conifers 158
Variegated Cyperus alternifoHus,
cultivation of 266
Variegated geraniums 327
Variegated ivies 50
Variegated ivy 61
Variegated leaves 256
Variegated-leaved geraniums 72
Variegated-leaved plants for rock-
eries 9
Variegated willow herb 233
Vegetables for 1867 89
Villa kitchen garden, 199, 242, 261, 291,
331, 356.
Vine, a fine .., 69
Vine disease 64
INDEX.
PAG8
Tine leaves from Norfolk 2.^3
Vines, inarchins^ 176
Vines in ground \'in8ry ^ 3l9
Viola cornuta 256, 329
Verbenas --•72, 155
Verbesina verbascifolia 110
Virginian creeper 351
Vitis hederacea 7
Weeping trees 339
White-edged auricula 105
Wigandia 45
Window boxes 24
PA. OB
Window plants 239
Window spring flowers 24
Winter propagation of roses 25
Winter treatment of kitchen-
gardens 318
Wood war dia orientalis 40
Woodwardia radicans 39
Worms on lawns 350
Yucca flowering for display 85
Zonale geraniums 230
NEW PLiJ^TS.
Acer (Polymorphum) palmatum ... 318
Acer (Polymorphum) palmatum
sanguuieum 318
Adiantum scutum 187
^chmea glomerata 374
Aerides Vandarum 373
Amp elopsis serj anise folinus ....
Asperula azurea setosa 372
Aerides Thibautianum 29
Agave Schidigera 317
Agave xylonacantha 285
AmaryUis 91
Amaryllis pardina 217
Angrtecum citratum 91
Anthuriuiii pedatifidum 347
Anthurium reflexum 372
Aquilegia Pyreniaca 346
Aristolochia tricaudata 317
Athyrium latitblium 30
Aucuba Japoniea grandidentata
maculat a 346
Azalea, Her Majesty 346
Azalea Indica Francois Devos 187
Barleria Gibsoni 91
Begonia Veitchii 317
Begonia BoKviensis 284
Billbergia sphacelata 218
Bletia hvacinthiaa albo-striata 34:7
Bletia Sherratdana 217
Bolbophyllum Siamenso 373
Bossiae Hendersoni 372
Boweia volubilis 90
Cselogj^e biflora 29
CaelogjTie lagenaria 157
Camellia Angelo Cocchi 252
Camellia Carlotta Polosa 318
Camellia Constantin Tretiakoff. ' 156
Camellia Japoniea SteUa Polare ... 91
Castronema sanguineum 156
Catakidozamia Ilopei 29
Cattleva amethystoglossa 30
CattleyaDowiana 61, 318
Cattleya quadricolor 187
Cirrhopetalum Papudii 347
Cistrum elegans 285
Clavija fulgens 91
Colax jugosus 317
Cotonea.ster Fontanesi 347
Corysanthes picta 346
Curcuma xlustralasica
Cymbidium Hookerianum .
Cypella cterulea
Cypripedium Schlimii
Cyrtodeira Montalensis ...
Dalechampia Roezliana . . . .
372 i^aphne Genkwa
Delphinium Triomphe de Pontoise
Dendi'obium Bullerianum
Dendrobium capiUipes
Dendrobium C harltonii
Dendrobium macrophyllum
Dendrobium pycuostach>-um
Desmodium penduliflorum
Dodecatheon JelFreji :
Draba violacea
Dombeya angulata
Dracaena surculosa
Epidendi-u.m amethystiuum
Epidendrum brassavolae
Epideudrum Cooperianum
Epidendrum cremidophoram
Epideudrum dichromum
Epidendrum eburneum 157,
Erodium macradenium
Eupatoi-ium riparium
Epidendrum sophronites
Epimedium alpinum, var. rubrum .
E ucodonia na^gelioides
Ficus Sm-ingarii
Fittoni a argyroneui-a
Gladiolus, garden varieties
Gloxinia hypocry tiflora
Glyphfea Monteiroi
Goodyera maerantha
Goodyera velutina
Gomphia theophrasta
Gonatostemon Borcheanum
Grias cauliflora _^
Griftinia Blumena\'ia 3173
Grirtinia hyacmthina maxima
Helianthemum ocymoides
Heliconia humilis
Heliotropium convolvulaceum
Hemerocallis f ulva k wanso
Hemerocallis Middendorfi
Hydrangea paniculala floribunda . . .
Hydrangea pamculata grandiflora
Hydrangea Japoniea macrosepala- . •
91
29
123
90
373
317
372
34G
234
373
61
218
30
346
372
252
372
316
372
317
252
284
29
372
317
347
373
374
373
372
373
126
252
29
373
373
157
372
123
347
372
123
156
156
347
347
347
373
347
VUl
INDEX.
PAGE
Impatiens latifolia 91
Ipomaea Gerrardi 252
Iris Ksempferi 347
Lselia majalis 374
Lamprococcus Weilbacliii 347, 373
Larix Kaempferi 124
-Lilium hnematocliroum 126
Lomaria ciliata 30
Lomaria dura 30
Lomaria Leclileri 30
•Magnolia Lenuei 373
Maranta rosea picta 373
Maranta illustris 187, 373
Maranta roseo-picta 15G
Miltonia rosea 318
My osotis semperflorens 91
Myrtus Cheken 187
Nanones medusse 346
Nasonia cinnabarina 372
Nidularium Laurentii 372
Notylia bicolor 29
Odontoglossum astranthuni 346
Odontoglossum crocatum 372
Odontoglossum Dawsonianum 29
Odontoglossvun nebulosnm 373
Odontoglossum nebulosum can-
didum 373
0 dontoglossum roseum 372
Odontoglossum Scliileperianum ... 29
Odontoglossum triumphans 346
Oncidium holochrysum 30
Oncidium nubigenum 372
Oncidium serratum 124
Opbiopogon Japonicus argenteo-
striatus 347
Osbeckia rubicunda 30
Palaver flexuosa 30
-Passiflora fulgens 346
Passiflora Banksii 373
Pavetta Hookeri 372
Pear, Beurre de Pr omental 91
PAGS
Peperomia arifolia 124
Pliajus inquilinus 346
Phajus irroratus 347
Platycrater arguta 372
Pleroma sarmentosa 124
• Pleurotballis Saundersiana 29
Prostantliera nivea 284
Lselia Pilclieri 373
E-baphia tsedigera 61
/Rhododendron marginato-puncta-
tum 124
Rondeletia Purdiei 374
Rudgea macropliylla 252
Saccolabium curvif olium 91
Saccolabium giganteum 346
Sarcanthus erinaceus 124
Sedum Maximowiczii 372
S edum maximum versicolor 373
Sedum Japonicum 372
Sipliocampylus fulgens 346
Sipbocampylus Humboldtianus .... 124
Smilax longifolia variegata 284
Spirantkes margaritifera 29
Stanhopea saccata 29
Stemonacanthus Pearcei 217
Strawberry, Perpetual Pine 91
Synadenium Grantii 124
Tacsonia Buclianani 284
Tapeinotes Carolinse 91
Thunbergia fragrans 187
Thapsia decipiens 374
Tricbocentrum albo-purpureum ... 30
Tricbocentrum cornucopise 30
^Ulmus campestris 187
-Ulmus campestris aurea 347
Vanda Bensonii 29, 347
Viola pedata 284
Vriesia gigantea 252
Vriesia bracbystachys 347
^ Weigelia Middendorffiana 91
,/ Zea Japonica albo-vittata 37S
ENGEAYINGS.
Adiantum cuneatum 171
Adiantum Cunninghami 196
Agave Schidigera 317
Bocconia Japonica 108
Cypella cserulea 123
Daiechampia RoezKana 318
Diagrams of Japonica 137
Equisetum sylvaticum 203
Figures of Cuttings 73, 74, 75
Fruits of Aucuba 138
Garden design 323
Grias cauliflora 123
Ground plan of rockery, Stoke
Newington 5
Helianthemum 124
Heliconia bumilis 156
Heliotropium convolvulaceum 156
Hortus fenestralis 130,131
Lastrea aemula 238
Lastrea filix mas., var. grandiceps 276
Mushrooms under greenhouse stage 208
Plan of a villa kitchen-garden 200
Pleopeltis membranacea 82
Polystichum angulare, var. gran-
diceps 114
Polystichum angulare 274
Rockery, summer-house, and bee-
shed at Stoke Newington 4
Todea hymenophylloides 2S
Woodwardia radicans 34
THE FLORAL WORLD
GARDEN GUIDE.
JANUARY, 186 7.
DESCEIPTION OF A EOCKERY AT STOKE NEWINGTON.
TIE casual notice of my rockery which occurred in an
article on the Bracken in the Flosal Woeld of
October last, has brought many inquiries for detailed
information as to its appearance, structure, and uses.
In order to comply in a way likely to be useful, I have
had a perspective view and a ground plan prepared, and herewith
present them to our readers. Though a distinct and pleasing
feature of my very small garden, it is but proper to state that
it was originally constructed solely as a screen, to shut out from
view the lower part of the garden, where experimental operations
render privacy desirable, and where, moreover, there is nothing tor
people to see. The primary object of the proceeding has been fully
secured. The frame ground and plunging beds are screened from
inquisitive eyes, and there is less interruption of the work than
was the case once upon a time. But the ruin is a real embellishment,
and it aifords sites for a large number of interesting and beautiful
plants. One effect it produces, w4ii<;h is doubtless worth mention.
It gives to the garden at the point where it is seen in its full extent,
an appearance of expanding out to a great breadth, though it is no^
wider here than anywhere else. This is owing to the number of
separate objects which present themselves in nearly an unbroken
line right across the garden, and as they are all connected and in
perfect harmony as parts of a rustic scene, the eye is pleased with
the variety and the expansion which are secured by the arrangement.
This rockery consists partly of banks faced with burrs, and
partly of artificial ruins. The entrance to the scene, at a, is by a
walk which divides right and left, leading one way to a summer-
house at c, another way to raised banks at d, and the principal walk
is also carried through the rockery, and then leads the way, u, to the
lower part of the ground, which this construction hides from view.
At E and r are parts of two large semicircles which abut upon the
front of the rockery ; at G is the bee-3hed„ the thatched roof of which
is a pleasing feature in the perspective view.
It will be observed that the principal part of the rockery is a sort
of bastion with arches. The walk down passes through the bastion,
THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
and the design of the whole is perhaps a little fanciful, and would
puzzle both military and civil architects, though there is really
nothing at all extravagant in any of the details. The bastion was
constructed with the largest burrs that could be obtained. By the
term " burrs" is meant the great blocks of half vitrified brick which
are thrown out of the kiln as useless to the builder. The demand
for these has become so great that they are expensive articles, though
but a few years since the cost of carriage was about all that was of
necessity incurred in obtaining them. The walls of the bastion are
filled in with earth, and for the guidance of any reader who should
wish to adopt a similar contrivance, I will remark that such walls
should be at least three to four feet thick, so as to enclose a large
body of earth, for plants growing on such walls will occasion very
much trouble in watering, etc., to keep them alive during hot
weather if there is but a scanty body of soil in the walls. Of
course, in the process of building, openings were left, and numerous
irregularities were produced intentionally, so as to form receptacles,
basket-like recesses, and chinks and hollows for plants. In order
that the whole body of earth in the walls should be moistened by
rain, the summits of the walls were not covered in, but were planted
with various shrubs, succulents, and other plants of kinds suit-
able for such a position, the relative dispositions of the materials of
these walls may be understood by the aid of a printer's diagram : —
Jbi
5
M
o
^^
o
o
eS
o
P3
w
f^
in which the word " rock" stands in this case for a facing of btirrs.
A few " butts," as the gardeners here term the stumps of trees,
have been worked in with good effect, and one of the prettiest eff"ects
is produced by a tuft of that noble grass Mpmis arenarkis, planted
in a large butt on the left, near the summer-house.
The banks on either side of the walls are raised from two to five
feet high, and the walks are planted with Sagina iwocumbens in the
bays and recesses, because gravel does not long preserve a sightly
appearance in such places, and the Sagina forms a green moss-like
growth. In a peaty or sandy .soil, mosses would grow freely in such
spots ; but in our heavy clay land, mosses have no beauty. All the
walks necessarily used are, of course, gravelled and well kept.
The summer-house is as much benefited by the rockery as the
experimental ground. Fov as this retreat is chiefly used by myself all
the summer long as a sanctum for literary work, its separation from
the working department is a matter of great importance, and I
enjoy the immense advantage of writing in the garden, and being at
hand to direct the work, and also to see the subjects it may be my
business to describe. I might speak also of the service rendered by
the rockery in screening the bee-shed from the upper end of the
garden; the bees always sail high up over the arches and trees, and
*> THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GtJTDE.
a stranger would scarcely discover that there were bees in the place,
especially if liot admitted beyond the front of the rockery. And I
shall now say a word as to its beauty. As I sit in the sanctum in the
midst of heaps of papers, I derive immense and untiring pleasure by
occasionally looking out at the ferns, and grasses, and succulent
plants with which the walls and banks are studded. I cannot
imagine a prettier bijou picture than is the bank d, which I have in
full view as I sit at my desk. There is a great tuft of the varie-
gated-leaved willow herb, EpUohium angustifoliiim, fol. var., which is
exquisitely beautiful, with creamy leaves and rosy purple blossoms ;
several tufts of variegated grasses, the bold orbicular leaves of
Saxifraga crassifoUum, the grandly-striped leaves of the variegated
variety of Aspidistra lurida, the silvery Artemisia argentea, and
many more of such strikingly charactered plants, the boundary be-
yond being a fifteen-feet wall of rich green privet, which brings out
the elegant lines of the grasses and the silvery and creamy lines of
the variegated plants superbly.
In the nook on the left there are numerous fine examples of
hardy ferns that have grown to great dimensions. This nook is
quite shaded, which is not the case with the banks d, and the soil
is made for ferns, and consists of "Wanstead peat and loam, chopped
up together. Here of course are great tufts of Lastrea Filix mas
and the lovely lady-fern, AtligriumFiUxfcemina, and the crested and
tasselled varieties of both. Also fine patches of common polypody,
Folypodiiim vidgare, the hart's-tongue in several forms, the beautiful
Onoclea sensihilis, which is quite hardy here; and a good selection of
British ferns of smaller growth. The horse-tails, such as Fquisetum
sylvaticum, JE. arvense, and others, add a rare and exquisite charm to
the nooks in which they grow, and, as already recorded, the back-
ground of this nook consists of bracken, which has attained to a
remarkable degree of luxuriance, and has a grand appearance,
towering up in front of the dark ruin.
Though on so small a scale, I might with perfect justice describe
this rockery as constituting a series of three distinct gardens. First,
we have on the summit and sides of the walls of the bastion
numerous succulents, and a few alpines. The position is not well
adapted for ferns, though we could keep them there by regular
watering. It is much better, however, to plant a position so that
the least possible care will be required ; at all events, our rule is
never to make work, there is too much of that already ; so we plant
things in such a way that they will, generally speaking, take care of
themselves. The mesembryanthemums are invaluable for such
work, and their free and abundant flowering give them a first claim
to consideration for positions much exposed to sun and scantily
supplied with moisture. The sunny banks on the right serve for
herbaceous plants, and a few choice trees and shrubs ; and on the
left of the bastion is the fernery. It would be wearisome to the
reader, and perhaps of but little practical service, were I to enter
into any particulars as to the details of the planting, or the various
failures and successes that haA'e occurred during the seven years
that have elapsed since the scheme was carried out. Several choice
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 7
ferns, such as Jllosonis crispus, Aspleniiun onda muraria, and
others that ought to have thriven on the face of the bastion, have
perished, which I attribute to their being dried up during long
continued hot weather, when, probably, regular watering would have
saved them. But I imagine it of the utmost importance to render
this brief description u:r:eful, that I should present as complete a list
as possible of the plants that have succeeded, and that are really
worth the attention of persons possessing similar structures, or desir-
ing to form collections of plants.
TEEES AND SHEIBS.
Bhus cotinus. — This very distinct and beautiful shrub has a fine
appearance on a bank when smothered with its brown smoke or
foam-like flowers. It should be found in every belt of mixed shrubs.
Artemisia arcjentea, A. glacial is, A. maritima, A. siberica, A. vul-
garis.— All the species of wormwoods are more or less glaucous or
silvery. The first named of these forms an elegant tree, and, as it
needs but little soil, is well adapted for the top of a wall, or any
other elevated position.
Heclera Algeriensis, H, Begneriensis, H. Canariensisfol. var., H.
digitata, H. chri/socarjia, and H. helix elegantissima, are the most
striking half dozen varieties of ivy to train over ruins ; but there are
at least fifty more varieties of ivy worthy of places in rockeries and
ruins. When planted so as to form distinct sheets of verdure they
are much more eff"ective than when allowed to riot over the walls
and arches. But in some parts of a ruin a luxurious growth of ivy is
desirable ; it is the one plant in all the world that can best crown a
buttress with befitting glory. Common Irish and common English
are the t^^o best sorts wherewith to form extensive sheets and bold
bosses where there is plenty of room for them.
Lonicera hrar.hypoda reticidaia. — This charming honeysuckle is
well adapted to train over rough walls, but it will not train itself as
ivy does, and the best way to help it is to place stout galvanized iron
wire where the creeper is required and it will twine round it. When
it reaches the summit of a rum and falls over in trailing wreaths, it
flowers freely, but, like ivy, is reluctant to flower while it has oppor-
tunities for extending itself.
Jasminum nudiflorum. — An old plant of this jasmine clothing a
wall or scrambling over a rocky ledge is a fine object in winter when
it is covered with yellow flowers,
Uosmariiius officinalis fol. var., Ruta graveolens fol. var., Santolina
rosmarini folia. — Here are three British plants that are admirably
adapted tor planting high up on exposed dry ledges and other places
where moisture-loving shrubs would soon perish. On the summit
of the bastion these are both ornamental and interesting.
Vitis hederacea fol. var. — This exquisitely beautiful vine was
planted in a pocket about five feet from the ground, and it grew
freely and made long pendant garlands, which were full of grace and
beauty ; the stems reddish and the leaves prettily mottled green and
grey.
Clematis lanuginosa^ G. ccerulea^ C. Florida^ C. vitalba. — There is
8 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
no limit to the use of clematises wherever walls are to be clothed,
whether such rough walls as these or the smooth walls of a mausion.
A few of them planted in a rich mellow soil at the foot of the bastion
have grown and flow ered finely. I find the only way to train them
neatly is to nail them as required.
(7«r\ feet to the corners of the diamond ?
I am obliged to do so much of the gardening in my little place myself, having only
occasionally the assistance of a man, that I should be much obliged for a hint as to
filling my beds with hardy things which would keep the garden tolerably bright
without constant change. — A Lady Subscriber. [The problem proposed by " A
Lady Subscriber" is well worth whatever trouble may attend its solution. 1. The
yellow pansies are admirable, but we should expect them to look very weedy towards
the end of the summer. They appear, however, to give satisfaction, but suppose
them to fail, what should we plant in their place to maintain a display of yellow.
Calceolarias would scarcely do, for they decline in beauty towards autumn, and
would be too tall for the place. If the colour were not too strong, Gazania splendens
would do, provided they were spring-struck plants, or they would be fast coming
32 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
into bloom when the pansies acquired a weed}' look. (Enothera riparia would be
just the thing, and the way to manage it would be to plant it alternately, and
rather close with the pansy, and when the pansy had done its duty, to cut it back
quite close, and allow the (Enothera space for its performances. That pretty gem,
AcliilUa tomentosa, would probably come in well for work of this sort, but we can
speak with confidence only of the (Enothera, because its habit is the same as that
of the pansy. 2. The soft blue of the Nemophila could be very well replaced by
the green-leaved form of Agathea celestis, which flowers very freely in the autumn.
This is the plant long known iu gardens as Aster capensis and Cineraria amel-
loides. Unfortunately this is a tender plant, but it needs no more care than blue
lobelia. But no need for tender plants after all, for have we not half-a-dozen
lovely Campanulas that will serve the purpose admirably? Our correspondent may
take her choice of Campamda alpina, 6 inches, dark blue ; C. carpatica, 3 inches, a
beautiful shade of blue ; C. fragilis hirsuta, 3 inches, blue. We recommend C.
carpatica, and that it be planted in tufts with intervals between for sowing the seed
of Nemophila. Another suitable plant is Viola cornuta, of which there are several
forms, but probably the one oflfered by Mr. B, S. Williams, of Paradise Nurseries,
Holloway, under the name of " Purple Queen" is the best. At any rate Viola cor-
nuta is one of the best plants in the world for belts and lines, and is as hardy as
chickweed. 3. Fuchsias are certainly quite unsuited to follow white pinks, but the
dwarf variety of JDov.hle wliite pyreihrtim is just the thing for the purpose, for it
flowers freely till frost puts a stop to its career, and is scarcely anything taller than
the white pink. To prevent mistakes as to the plant meant, we give the catalogue
name of it, Pyrethriim Partheniiim flore pleno. Probably P. saxatile, growing
4 inches high, and with Avhite flowers in autumn, might be useful in this system.
A line of Venus's Navelwort, Omplialodes linlfoUa, or tufts of it sown between the
pinks about the end of April, would be very beautiful to succeed them. Then again
we have the white variety of Campanula carpatica, which would be a capital match
as to height and habit to the blue kind, if that were used in place of Nemophila.
4. The Saponaria difficulty may be got over provided the bed is riot exposed to the
ravages of slugs and snails, by planting in it Saponaria ocymoides, which spreads
fast, and flowers most beautifully from the early part of May to the middle of July.
"We suppose the species of our correspondent is S. calahrica, a most beautiful annual.
But this may be had in bloom early by sowing the seed in September, But sup-
pose them combined, S. ocymoides in tufts, with space between to sow S. calahrica
in April, then there would be pink flowers to the end of the season. Possibly
JErythrcea centav.i'ium, a charming little plant with pink flowers in autumn, would
work into this scheme admirably. The Saxifrages and houseleeks mentioned in
the November number of the Floral World are adapted for beds of any size from
two or three feet to two or three hundi-ed yards. — S. H]
Myostis stlvatica.— Conimelina. — This beautiful plant prefers shade, but it will
thrive in a sunny situation, if in a cool, moist soil. The way they do some of these
things at Cliveden is to allow them to grow wild amongst grass, aud the spots so
treated are not mown until the flowering of the most attractive plants is over for
the season.
Books. — C. I). — The following monthlies are all we are acquainted with: —
The Botanical Magazine, edited by Dr. J. D. Hooker, 3s, 6d. ; the Floral Maga-
zine, edited by Rev. H, Dombrain, 2s. 6d, ; V Ilustration Sorticole, edited by Pro-
fessor Ch. Lemaire, 14=, Gd, per annum. The first two can be obtained through
any bookseller ; the last is distributed through the post, and the London agent is
Mr. Silberrad, Harp Lane, Tower Street. Your geranium must not be repotted till
the end of March. Lady Stihscriber. — There is no good book devoted exclusively
to stove ferns, Tou would find Smith's " British and Foreign Ferns," published by
Hardwicke, Piccadilly, useful ; Sweet's " Hot-house Cultivator" furnishes good
instructions for all the best known older kinds of stove plants.
"WOCDWAEDIA P.ADICA>-S.
THE FLORAL WORLD
GARDEN GUIDE.
FEBRUARY, 186 7.
0]Sr SOME NEARLY HAEDY EXOTIC EEENS.
ANY very laudable efforts have been made of late years
to enlarge the selection of plants adapted for opeu-air
ferneries, but the results are by no means of an encou-
raging nature. It may be said with some truth that the
cliaiate of Britain is everywhere unfavourable to ferns,
and that, consequently, such as do inhabit our woods must be in a
less degree of perfection than is possible for them, and must be
some degrees hardier than their nearest allies that are foreign to our
soil. Of course I cannot ignore the beauty of our native ferns, and
I bear in miud the luxuriant growth of such species as the common
Lastrea, common Athyrium, and common Scolopendrium in the
" feruy coombes " of Devon. Yet when I compare the best home-
grown specimens with examples of the same species from warmer
climates, I see plainly enough that none of our native ferns attain
with us the highest degree of beauty of which they are capable.
It will be remembered by some of our readers that some years ago
I directed attention, by means of distinct examples, to the superior
beauty of nearly all the British ferns, when carefully cultivated, to
the best wild specimens that could be found. There are many
reasons why ferns should not be quite at home in Britain; the
winters are too severe and prolonged, the springs too cold, the
summers too dry. The south-western parts of England are noted
for the superior beauty and abundance of ferns, and indeed they are
the principal attractions for persons devoted to horticulture and
botany to visit Devonshire and Cornwall. The comparatively high
state of perfection of all south-western ferns proves the truth of the
general remark above made on the general insufficiency of the
climatic conditions in this country for the growth of ferns. But
compare the ferns of Devonshire with the ferns of the so^th of
Europe and the Canary islands ; that is to say, compare examples of
the same species respectively grown here and there, and in many
instances the difference will be such, that it will require more than a
superficial knowledge of the subject to enable an observer to deter-
mine their identity. These remarks are not intended to discourage
fern- flowers. So far as ferns do attain to perfection in this country,
36 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
tbey are the most elegant forms of vegetation known to us. The
common Lastrea in a half-starved state in a common garden border
is a glorious object ; but it is far more glorious when unfolding its
graceful fronds in a damp, shady wood, or in a well-kept garden
rocker3^ Let the cultivation of ferns be pursued, therefore, by
those who love it, without respect to the broad question we now
raise as to the comparative unfitness of the British climate for ferns
of all kindn. But the question does bear directly on the compara-
tively small results attained by oft-repeated experiments in the
planting of exotic ferns in English out-door ferneries. More than
this, it bears upon the experiments, and may be made the founda-
tion of a warning to all our readers not to be led away by certain
statements that have been made public, as to the adaptation of
numerous exotic ferns of noble proportions for permanent occupa-
tion of our gardens. We shall never be suspected of opposing
experiments in the acclimatizing of fine plants, for we have laboured
too long and too ardently in such endeavours to be open to doubt
upon the subject ; but experience has taught us some degree of
caution, and we are most anxious just now to guard our readers
against being led away by some rash assertions that have been made
as to the hardiness of several species of exotic ferns. The public
have been assured, on what is commonly termed a high " authority,"
that the tree-ferns of New Zealand, and many of the Lomarias of
Brazil, may be made permanent residents of English gardens. This
we do not believe, and we hope none of our readers will be so rash
as to plant out valuable exotic ferns of any kind until assured on
what they consider sufficient authority, or convinced by personal
observation, that the species to be planted is really entitled to be
regarded as '' hardy." During the discussion of this question, it has
certainly met with the most sensible treatment in the Irish Farmer's
Gazette, the editor of which believes that some of the most favoured
spots in the " Emerald Isle " might be found warm enough for
DicTcsonia antarctica, and a few other of the noblest nearly hardy
exotic ferns. So possibly some of the most snug retreats of Devon
might be suitable for them ; yet there must always be a risk, for the
recent severe frost did not greatly spare those luxuriant parts of our
isle which the gulf stream warms with its tepid waves. That it
would be very delightful to see the glorious tree-ferns of New
Zealand towering up in the midst of British Osmundas, Lastreas,
and Scolopendriums, no one can question; nor will the writer of this
cast even the minutest pebble at the enthusiast who looks forward
with hope to the day when such a thing shall be. Let the enthu-
siast hope, and while hoping, let him labour to bring about the
result (if it be possible) to which his hopes are directed.
" Hope springs eternal in the human breast,
Man never is, but always to be blest."
Now let US go, as is our wont, to the region of the practical.
There are plenty of subjective books on gardening, but the Eloral
"World is mostly objective, and we have before us a few objects on
which we wish to expatiate. There are some noble ferns of exotic
THE PLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 37
origin that are nearly hardy in tliis counbry, and all of whicli can be
used in the open-air fernery, or to decorate the lawn or terrace,
without any risk of losinp^ them. To speak of them in a general
Tvay, we may sa}^ that they require a cool house to keep them
through the winter ; but if kept in pots and tubs, they may be
placed out of doors all the sui^mer, and may even be plunged to give
them the appearance of being rooted in the ground, and to render
the pots and tubs invisible. There is scarcely any limit to the use
of ferns in this way, for at Battersea Park last summer costly stove
ferns, such as Cijathea Smithii, Ci/athea dealhata, and Alsophila
mtsiraJis, were plunged out and did well. But in this paper we are
to keep to those that are nearly hardy ; and I repeat, that to make
a good use of them, without incurring any risk of losing the plants,
is just a question of house room to keep them through the winter.
It has been my lot to discover means of increasing house room
without increasing the extent of glass, by tying up the fronds to
stakes, so that when these ferns acquire a great size they shall
occupy no more room than the exact measure of the pots.
I give as an illustration to this paper a portrait of a particularly
favourite plant of mine, a fine 77 'bot?ir«n/^arrtc?ica;i5, which is represented
as it stood on the grass turf here last summer, mounted on an old
stump of a tree. That plant is now so large that we cannot afford
house room for it while the fronds hang down in the way they are
represented ; and when it is taken in for the winter, the great i'ronds
are gathered up, and tied upright to stakes, just as if the plant were
to be packed for a journey ; and then the Avidth of the pot is the
exact measure of the space it requires. I find that if the fronds of
this, and any other spreading ferns of a hard texture, are tied up
with care, they suffer nothing ; and when untied in the spring soon
fall into natural positions, and are as good as if they iiad never been
touched ; and even if one or two are damaged, nature soon repairs
the mischief, and before the summer has advanced very far there are
new fronds to take the place of those damaged. This is a wrinkle of
some value, I know, but I shall charge no more thau the usual price
for the number — a sixpence franks it as before.
SELECT HARDY EXOTIC FERNS.
Tliese ferns are usually catalogued as hardy, and I shall proceed
to state what I know about them both as to hardiness, beauty, and
general^adaptation for the English garden.
ADiANTUii PEDATUM. — A lovcly fom, quite equal in beauty to
A. formosum and a dozen other Adiantums. AVhen planted iu a
warm sheltered nook, in a deep bed of gritty peat, it is quite hardy
in the climate of London. The hardiness of this lovely fern is a
grand fact for lovers of choice hardy plants. In case of any fear of
its safety during winter, cover the crown with a cone of cocoa-nut
fibre or clean-sifted coal-ashes. It must have a shady, moist position,
and if planted so as to peep out from a pocket in a rockery, it has a
charming appearance.
AsPLENiUM ANGUSTTFOLiUM. — A stroug-grovriug, rigid fern,
with once-divided leathery fronds. It is quite hardy in a sheltered,
38 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
well-drained position; but if exposed, or in a spot that is very wet
in wiater, is pretty sure to perish. As it is a cheap fern, it is well
for every possessor of a good fernery to give it a trial.
AsPLENiuM EBENEUM. — Less in stature than the preceding, this
is still worth a place in the hardy fernery. In favoured spots it will
last until an extra severe winter occurs, and probably would outlast
the keenest frosts we have if protected.
AxHYRiUM ASPLENioiDEs. — A fiue fcm, rising two to three feet
high, the fronds elegantly divided and a rich colour, purplish-black
mingled with dark green. It is deciduous, grows freely, and appears
to be quite hardy. For the rockery under glass this is one of the
choicest ferns known ; when seen against a dark background, it has
a beauty not surpassed by that of Pteris scaberula. I very strongly
recommend this for the sheltered parts of a rockery ; it needs shade,
and will bear a considerable degree of moisture without injury.
Ctrtomium falcatum. — This is the "laurel fern," so called
on account of its dark-green leaf-like divisions of a hard leathery
texture. It is a most noble object in the fernery, being as distinct
in its way as a Scolopendrium, but far more majestic. It will grow
in almost any soil, will bear more sun, more drought, and more
moisture than almost any other fern we have, but it is not quite
hardy. Therefore it must either be protected by heaping a cone of
coal-ashes over the crown, or, better still, it must be taken up and
potted for the winter.
CYETOiiiUii CAEYOTiDETJM. — This grows to ouly half the height
of the preceding ; it is an interesting species, and requires protection
in the same manner.
Lastrea Goldiea^^a. — This fine fern (which by the w^ay is not
very distinct in character) has been very fairly tried, again and
again, as a hardy fern, and here has always failed. Moreover, its
growth is unsatisfactory if it is left in any respect to shift for itself;
so, while admitting that it is a noble species, I am quite prepared to
strike it out of the list of desirable species for those who cannot
bestow pains upon it, and give it the shelter of glass.
Lastrea MARaiT^ALis. — This is one of the most beautiful of this
great family, very distinct, robust, and cheerful. The fronds are
twice-divided, with entire pinnules, the colour bluish-green, the
fructification light orange-yellow. When strong it rises two feet
high, and forms a noble tuft. This is quite hardy if in a sheltered
spot, and is one of the most useful exotic ferns known.
Lastrea yovEBORACENSis. — This is by no means eminent for
beauty, though it would be a gross libel to say it has no beauty.
It grows fifteen inches at the utmost, and is as hardy as any British
Lastrea.
Lastrea Sieboldii {Pycnopteris Sieholdii). — A glorious fern is
this, and very " tropical looking" ; we must surely have a picture of
it in these pages some day. The fronds are divided into three
primary divisions of great size; these are more or less lobed, some-
times nearly to the extent of being petiolated, though never quite
so. The texture is stiff and stout like parchment, and the colour a
fine dark rich green. It is not quite hardy, therefore should either
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. oU
be taken up or protected. A good plan is to shift it into as large a
pot as it is likely to fill in the month of April, and in May plunge it
in a shady bank or some sheltered nook of the rockery. Its tine
form and character entitle it to the higliest consideration.
LoMAKiA Chilenscs. — A bold, once-divided, leathery-fronded
fern ; a fine companion to Cyrtomium falcatum. Not quite hardy,
but lives out a mild winter. When strong, the fronds acquire a
length of four feet.
LoMARiA MagellaisIca. — Fine and distinct ; not quite hardy,
but nearly so.
OSMUNDA CIXNAMOMEA, 0. ClATTOXIA^^A, O. GRACILIS. — All
hardy as our own 0. regalis, and lovely ferns for the shady and damp
parts of a rockery.
PoLYSTiCHu:\i ACROSTOCHOiDES. — A fine companion to Lomaria
Chilensis ; the fronds bold, dark green and glossy, and of a leathery
texture. It is evergreen under glass, but deciduous when planted
out, as the first frost destroys the fronds, but the crown may be kept
by covering it.
PoLYSTiCHUM PUKGENS. — A Ycry fine species, rising two feet
high, quite a Polystichum in style. Not quite hardy, but nearly so.
iStruthiopteeis G-ermanica. — This is the glorious "ostrich-
feather fern." The fronds form a correct shuttlecock-like series
round the crown, and the fruit rises on a separate stalk in the
centre. It is reputed to be quite hardy, and perhaps is so ; but it
is not at all adapted for an out-door fern, and I have never seen it
looking well in an open-air rockery. If exposed to wind the fronds
get torn, and if they escape being torn, they are sure to turn brown
by Midsummer-day. Therefore I advise that it never be planted out
until the cultivator has a few plants to spare, and is prepared to see
them all spoilt, with the chance of a better result than others have
attained with it.
Wood WARD lA radicals. — What a grand fern is this, and how
badly is it treated ! Because it will live on almost nothing, very
few cultivators treat it liberally. I know about fifty plants that
have been kept in the small pots and baskets for years without any
change of soil, with their roots cramped so much that their living is
like a miracle. I beg tlie readers of the Ploral World to treat
this majestic fern in a liberal manner, to give it plenty of pot room,
and a soil consisting of at least three parts mellow hazel loam, the
remainder peat and sharp grit. To get up fine specimens, they
should have a shift every spring to a larger-size pot, and from the
largest pots to tubs, and so on for ever, the end of the shifting to be
at that point where the lifting of the plant becomes a matter of
difficulty. The roots may be pruned back as freely as the roots of a
geranium, if they have gone down among the crocks, and have become
unmanageable for the next shift. AVheu in a twelve-inch pot, with
good soil rammed in firm, the plant will produce fronds six feet in
length. To propagate, the best way is to peg down three or four of
the bulbs which form at the end of the fronds in a pot filled with
sandy peat, and when they are well rooted, cut through the frond
that holds them, and separate- them. Keep them one year in the
40 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
pots, and tlien pot tliem separately. . It has never lived through a
severe winter in any case to my knowledge, and I have a fine one
now left out from last season, which I expect will be dead when spring
comes, though while writing this (January 15) I have examined it,
and the crown appears to be fresh and unhurt.
Woodward lA oeientalis. — This is of smaller growth than the
last, but very much like it in general appearance. The young fronds
are of a bright cinnamon colour, and the young plants are produced
in scale-like tufts on the upper surface of the fronds. It is rather
less hardy than radicans, and is more in need of shade and shelter.
As this list includes a few that in some districts it may be a diffi-
culty to procure, I shall advise any of our readers who cannot obtain
them of their own nurserymen, to apply to Mr. E. Sim, of the
Nurseiies, Toots Cray, Kent, S.E., who can meet their requirements
without difficulty, even if they want to buy ferns by thousands.
Shielet Hibbeed.
CULTIYATION or BEITISH QUEEJSr STEAWBEERY.
BY J. CALTEET CLAEKE.
T may not be generally known that bean-chaiF is a very
useful material to the cultivator of stiff soils, especially
for the growing of the British Queen strawberry. But
for the benefit of the reader I will tell him how it came
under my notice, and how I was led to believe in its
virtue. I was then (eight years ago) working upon one of those
badly-drained, cold, and clayey soils so plentiful in some places on
the south coast, and where every attempt to grow the British Queen
strawberry had failed. This was a fact made known to me by my
then new employer, accompanied with a wish that were it in my power
I was to devise some means to secure the well-doing of this favourite
variety. Every plan that had been adopted was carefully detailed
to me by the proprietor ; and he added, " I had given up in despair
till a few days since, when a trifling circumstance revived again my
hopes. Come with me," says my employer, " and I will show you
what I think you will value as a dressing for strawberries, if not for
the production of this desired variety." A walk of a few minutes
brought us to the back of some farm buildings, where had been,
through near eighteen months, the refuse of two large stacks of
beans, or in other words the chaff from the winnowing machine.
It had been put into a heap on this spot with the intention of re-
moving it at some convenient time ; but still it remained there.
Kow it so happened that all the refuse and trimmings from the
garden were taken to another spot close by, and from these trim-
mings one of the farm labourers selected a few runners of straw-
berries, and laid them by the heels in this chaft^ with the intention,
I suppose, of carrying them home to his own garden; but this he
THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 41
did not do, as tliey were left there, and the spot being sliady, they
soon made fresh roots ; and at the time I first saw them they had
made a most vigorous growth, and had sent out runners near two
yards round. Here then was the result of an accident, and at the
same time a proof that the material would be valuable for straw-
berry cidture. Acting upon the hint thus thrown in my way, I set
to work, and had the whole of the heap brought into the garden ; it
was then almost like a black mould ; and as a piece of strawberries
had just been planted, I gave the whole surface a covering of three
inches, reserving a good quantity for a trial with the British Queen.
Its effect upon the newly-planted beds was something like magic,
for as soon as they began to make new roots (for I had very care-
fully forked it in round them) they grew in a most luxuriant man-
ner, and at the end of one summer had made an extraordinary
growth. Kow I know this sort of material by very many is not able
to be got, but still in country places it is accessible to some ; I have
therefore stated what I know about it for the benefit of those few.
This occurred, as I before stated, upon a cold, undrained soil
where the British Queen had previously failed to thrive. My plan
of proceeding was this. I had three rows marked out, two feet
apart, across a good wide quarter. I then dug out a trench the
width of the spade, fifteen inches deep ; the top soil was thrown
out separately, and the bottom stuff wheeled away. I then put
into the trenci, four or five inches thick, a lot of rough spray wood,
w^hich in some country places is very cheap. This was trod in as
close as it would go ; the soil was then put back, and with two rows
was put the remainder of the decayed bean-chaff I have before referred
to ; with the other row a good supply of well-rotted dung was incor-
porated. After this, as labour was plentiful, I had the plot fre-
quently forked over on fine days during a period of three weeks, so
that it was brought to a nice friable condition previous to planting.
AVhen the plants were put out, and got well hold of the soil,
they made a rapid growth in those two rows where bean-chaff was
used ; its lijjht and kindly nature caused the roots to work vigo-
rously, so that at the end of twelve months they vrere well esta-
blished ; while the other row, although evidently benefited by the
drainage underneath, was less vigorous and healthy. Erom these
facts one very important piece of information was obtained, that
special drainage was necessary in this instance, and when applied in
conjunction with this decayed matter, a still better result attended
it. The ordinary mode of draining a garden may do in some cases
for the welfare of this variety, but there are others in which extra
attention is necessary in this particular, and when so applied it
should be placed immediately under the rows, that they may receive
the full benefit of it. But 'even this will not insure the well-doing
of British Queen in some places, for there are hundreds of gardens
in England where it is a complete failure, the true cause of which
remaius to this day a perfect mystery. Some, it is true, have made
the attempt to explain the why and the wherefore, but their efforts
to satisfy the minds of practical men have, for the want of sound
reasoninij, been futile.
42
SUB-TROPICALS THAT MAY BE GEOWN FROM SEED.
BY ZAEL PEOSPEE.
I RUSTING that the practical notes offered last month
have been found of some use, 1 will again direct atten-
tion to plants adapted for *' The Choice Garden," in
the class usually denominated " sub-tropicals," and that
may be grown from seed. I should say that those
who have not yet sown seeds of any of the kinds recommended last
month, but who wish to do so, may still proceed, for there is good
time yet to grow the plants to a fair size before planting them out.
But there must be no more time lost, for the days are lengthening,
and spring is near at hand, and all seedling plants that require a
good long season of in-door nursing, as most sub-tropicals do, should
now be started to take every possible advantage of the increasing
daylight.
DATUEA.
D.fastuosa Huberiana. — This is an annual or a perennial, at the
choice of the cultivator. If sown early and grown liberally, it
attains to a height of five or six feet, and producing branches freely,
it will measure as much through. The flowers are nearly as large as
those of D. arlorea, and of various colours, violet and white pre-
dominating. There are several varieties, all worth having if there
is room for them. If kept in greenhouse temperature and rather
dry all winter, the plants may be put out eveiy year, and if in a
sheltered position will have a grand effect,
D. gigantea. — A very grand species, with white flowers, most
superb when well grown.
D. ceratocaulon.—A pretty robust habited plant, with immense
trumpet-shaped flowers, white striped with pink, deliciously scented.
D. Kni^htii.^This grows to a height of four to six feet, with
superb white flowers.
For the sub-tropical garden, D. arhorea, D. frutescens, and D.
suaveolens are remarkable for beauty, but it is not advisable to
grow them from seed, as they can be with certainty and rapidity
raised from cuttings. When planted out in rich well-drained soil,
and supplied with abundance of water, they grow to gigantic dimen-
sions, and produce their noble odoriferous flowers freely.
EEXTHEINA.
The beds of Erythrinas at Battersea Park last year were amongst
the most interesting and beautiful of all the sub-tropical displays.
Yet I should prefer to see in a small garden half a dozen only of
these plants far apart, standing separately in front of evergreen
shrubs, or in that imaginary mixed border for which the O'Shane
and Mr. "Williams have been waging war so good temperedly. It is
worth the while of any amateur to grow a few Erythrinas from seed,
both for the amusement and the intrinsic value of the plants. At
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 43
page 146 of last year's volume is an excellent'practical essay on the
cultivation of this plant for exhibition. To what is there said I only
need add, that to raise the plant from seed, and to plant it out in
the garden, are feats attended with no difficulty. The soil of the
bed should be rich and substantial, the plant should have abundance
of water all through June, July, and August, and be taken up for
the winter, and kept rather dry in the greenhouse. To start the
seeds a good heat is needed.
E. crista-gcdli- — This plant branches freely, attaining a height of
six to ten feet ; the branches and leaf-stalks are armed with spines ;
the flowers are scarlet, and produced in plenty. There are several
varieties, one of the best of which is Marie Bellanger, which does
well in the open ground.
E. Jaurifolia. — This grows very freely, but does not flower so
abundantly as the last.
CASSIA.
All the species of Cassia may be raised from seed with facility,
and there are very many in cultivation. I shall name only two,
because the object of these papers is to select from amongst thou-
sands of plants those few very best that will be sure to delight the
amateur, and will be pretty sure also not to perplex him. The
readers of the Floral World, I presume, would rather have their
attention directed to the most select and useful plants for private
gardens, than be bewildered with mere lists of names. Therefore I
trust to be excused naming only two species of Cassia ; those who
want more will find their wish gratified by referring to any good
seed catalogue.
C. coryinbosa. — A freely-brancliing, neat-lookiug shrub, which
grows five to eight feet high, and flowers freely in the latter part of
the summer. The flowers are yellow. If planted in a sheltered
border, it will live through a mild winter, being very nearly hardy.
C.Jlorihunda. — Very handsome, with elegant pinnated leaves and
coronals of orange-yellow flowers.
The soil requisite for these should be light and rich, consisting
chiefly of turfy loam and leaf-mould. AVhen taken up for the
winter, they may be freely cut back. Common greenhouse pro-
tection is all they require. To raise them from cuttings is a very
easy task.
acacia.
A. lopTiantha is of great use in the sub- tropical garden, on account
of its most elegant foliage; but, generally speaking, Acacias are not
of much account for the purpose w'e are considering. When only a
few plants of this species are required, they may be purchased at a
low price at any good nursery ; but if any of our readers should
design to plant out a considerable number, the plants for the purpose
may be raised from seed without difficulty. I have found it advisable
to steep the seeds in water at 150' to 200' for twelve hours previous
to sowing them ; I place them in a pan, and put the pan on a flue
or tank. The plants should be grown in a sandy soil, in which there
is some proportion of peat, until planted out, and then any good
44 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
garden soil will do for them. The extreme beauty of this plant
entitles it to the most favourable consideration for the decoration
of the garden in summer time.
DAUBENTOXIA.
This is a fine leguminous shrub, growing six feet high, with
pinnated leaves and pea-shaped flowers of a scarlet, vermilion, or
orange colour. All the species may be raised from seed without
difficulty, but the plants do not flower freely till they acquire some
age ; therefore much must not be expected from the first season
when raised from seeds. They are usually classed in catalogues as
stove shrubs, but it is one more proof of the small j-eliance we cau
place upon those would-be authoritative documents, that all the
species grow freely in the open ground if planted out at the end of
May, and all may be wintered in ordinary greenhouse temperature
with perfect safety ; then, of course, they must be kept rather dry.
-D. iripetiana, D. puniced, I), magnifica. aud D. versicolor are the best
for the purpose of planting out ; and if only one is wanted, the last-
named is the handsomest and hardiest.
«
CTPEEUS.
The paper plant of the Egyptians is one of the most distinct and
beautiful plants that can be introduced to the English garden. I
find that at page 8 of the sixth volume of the Eloeal Woeld
there is a capital paper on its cultivation. I have to do with it as
suitable for the amateur to raise from seed for the decoration of the
garden. Eirst, then, I would say, sow the seeds quickly in a mixture of
two parts peat torn, or chopped up to the size of hazel nuts, and mixed
with one part of silver sand. Place the pans or pots containing the
seeds in larger pans filled with water, and cover the seeds with bell-
glasses. Then place on a heat of 70' or 80^', and as soon as the
seedling plants spear through, take the bell-glasses off". When the
plants are large enough to handle, lift them out with a pointed stick,
and pot separately in the same sort of mixture as used for the seed
pans, and put them in a heat of 70^ to grow, but gradually cool
them as they advance to 60', but not lower. The best way to use
any of the species of Cyperus in a private garden is to plunge the
plants in pots about one inch deep in the basin of a fountain, or any
ornamental water. They must not be put out till the middle oi
June, and must be housed again by the middle of JSeptember. Eor
so choice, so rare, so lovely a plant, this is surely not too much
trouble, except it be for those who can see no beauty in any garden
plant except it be a geranium or verbena.
• C. papyrus grows to nine or ten feet high, but is handsome and
effective in a small state. Its exquisite tint of emerald green, and
its light form, resembling a head of human hair, are distinguishing
points in its character.
G. alternifoliiis. — The variegated form of this plant is accounted
one of the grandest of all the stove plants in cultivation. I shall
never forget Mr. Tanton's specimen at the last Guildhall show ; it
was worth a crown to see that alone. But the variegated form is too
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 45
tender to be planted out, or even placed in tlie open air. It is of
small dimensions, reaching three feet high at the utmost, and usually
less.
C virens. — A very elegant and intensely green species, rising
eighteen inches high. "Well worth having.
C Killingioides. — Yery elegant, dwarf and tufted. A very pretty
plant for indoor fountains, also to put out in July, August, and
ISeptember.
WIGAKDIA.
We have now to deal "with a plant which has acquired immense
renown for its noble character and ready ^adaptation to the system
of planting out in summer in English gardens. I first saw this used
as a bedding plant in Paris, and in common with many other folks
was astonished at its beauty. Conceive as you may of the beauty of
leaves, it will be difficult to imagine the effect of this plant even
with the most vivid description. I shall be content to say that the
leaves are of a sombre green, boldly veined and undulated, and mea-
sure two to three feet in length and breadth. When planted out in
beds it has a superb appearance, but in a small garden I do not think
beds of this plant would be in good taste — a few plants here and
there would be far better. It is useless to keep old specimens, as
they become unhealthy, and it is difficult to keep them. Therefore,
only a few should be kept to furnish cuttings, or they must be raised
from seeds, a matter of no difficulty. Sow the seeds in shallow pans
at the end of Februarj', place the pans on a heat of 70^, and as soon
as the plants are large enough to handle, remove them into small
pots. Any light rich soil suits them when in pots, and when planted
out the soil should be deep, rich, and well drained. If planted in a
mass they must be three feet apart.
W, caracasana is the best, but some seedsmen supply seed of
IV. urens, an inferior kind, for it. I cannot say who supplies it true
and who false ; all I can do is to state the fact that many amateurs have
been deceived by spurious seed and have concluded (erroneously)
that the plant was not worth growing. Of course a certain remedy
for this is to obtain old plants, and propagate from cuttings.
GEEVILLEA.
This noble shrub has a fine effect when planted to stand alone
on a grass plot, or in the centre of a raised bed. It has the grace
of a fern and the character of a tree, and will attain any height, ac-
cording to its age and the care bestowed upon it. Nothini^ could be
more proper than to place it in this list, for it is most difficult to
increase it by cuttings, and hence it has hitherto been scarce. But
seeds are now sent from Algiers, and there ought to be no difficulty
in obtainiog them.
G. rohusta is the best for planting out. But better than planting
is to plunge the plant in its pot in a shady, sheltered place, taking
care to place an inverted empty pot beneath it to preserve perfect
drainage, for much damp at the root is most injurious to this beautiful
subject.
46 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
HICTNUS.
With these I shall wind up, though I still omit many good sub-
jects. But to pass over the castor oil plants would be to leave the
part of Hamlet out of the play which bears that name (a favourite
expression with the English people). To grow the Eicinus is as
easy as the growing of balsams and asters, but it is very advisable
to set about sowing the seeds early, in order to have the plants a
good size before planting them out, for size is everything. The seeds
may be sown any time during February or March, and if extra large
plants are required, the sowing should be made the first week in
February. This, however, depends on the amount of glass at com-
mand. Where glass is limited, the cultivator had best not sow till
the middle of March ; then, as the plants require more room, some
of the ordinary inhabitants of the house will be- removed in their
favour. Sow thinly in shallow pans, use a light, rich, leafy soil,
plunge in a heat of 60' to 70% keep close in a humid atmosphere,
and as soon as large enough to handle, prick off into 60-sized pots
singly. Thumb pots are not large enough for them, even at the first
start!^ Shift on as required, and by the end of May you will have
fine plants. The soil of the bed for them must be rich, friable, and
substantial, and the position should be sheltered.
B. sanguinea, a grand variety, attaining a gigantic size, the stems
and young leaves crimson.
Fi. Olermanni, superb habit, and growing full six feet high.
M. communis. — The common variety is not to be despised.
B. africanus alhidus. — Yery striking in character, the leaves and
stems marked with white lines.
B. viridis. — This has green fruit and red stems, fine.
Those who can obtain seed (true) of B. Bourhonensis arhoreiis,
and B. lividus, will find them remarkably beautiful. But probably
seed of these are not in the trade.
To finish up, I will state a fact which will perhaps startle some
of the readers. It is this (and it is a fact), that if seeds of castor
oil are sown in a rich, light, sunny border on the l(tth of May (or
thereabout), and left alone, the plants will be ten feet high before
the summer is over, I dare say I shall not obtain a testimonial in
silver for that startling revelation (the result of experiment), but I
shall be quite content to have aided so far in promoting the beauty
of the English garden.
A PavAL TO Ax^ECTOCHiLus SETACEUS.— The only hardy plant I have yet seen
M-hich approaches the tracery of this exquisitely marked plant — whose leaves have
not unaptly been compared to veins of gold flowing over a textm-e of green velvet —
is the golden-striped variety of the greater Periwinkle {Vhica major), whose dark
green leaves during the early spring and summer months, are very finely marked
^ith golden veins extending over their entire surface. The plant being perfectly
Lardy, thriving in ordinary soil, and vegetating early, will be found valuable for
picturesque effect amongst''early-forced plants in the conservatory and greenhouse,
or as portable specimens in pots for the open borders, either singly or otherwise. Its
varieo^ation is, in many instances, so beautifully distinct as to be adapted for the
earlie'st bouquets of spring flowers. I find it entered in ]Mr. Salter's catalogue as
Vmca major fol. reticulata. — W. W.
47
THE AUEICULA.
BY JOHN WALSn.
Ckaptee II. — Seeds and Seedlings.
WISH I could begin this chapter by a faithful descrip-
tion or indication of the pleasure I have derived from
the raising of florists' flowers from seeds. It is a
recreation that thrills a florist with delight ; it fills the
mind with anticipations ; usually many of those antici-
pations are realized, and rarely, very rarely, are they wholly disap-
pointed. The more experience that is gained, the greater certainty
attends the pursuit ; but I banish at once and for ever from my own
mind, and I hope the reader will banish the thought, that we are
invariably to judge such a pursuit by its results. Suppose after
raising and flowering one hundred seedling auriculas, I have not
one worth a high place and an honourable name, it is very certain that
I have been amused; I have seen something of ]N"ature's ways, and
am possibly instructed ; and I have one hundred plants, that are
more or less beautiful, that have been bred up by my own hands. In
any hundred auriculas grown from cjood seed, there will be a large
proportion of exquisitely beautiful flowers, and there may be a few
remarkable for perfection, and every cultivator ha? a chance. But I
repeat that it is not fair to judge the case by tangible results ; there
is, perhaps, nothing to sliow as the result of a ramble in the country.
Yet none of us wou^M condemn rambling, because in our own last
ramble we neither found a rare fossil, nor dicovered a gold-mine.
It is too much the custom of thousands of persons who practise
gardening as a recreation to buy plants instead of seeds. I do not
wish to raise the question whether an auricula is better thaii a
geranium, because I think it wrong to find fault with the recrea-
tions of any one provided they are harmless, but I will say that
irequently the amateur gardener would consult his or her own
interest in entering boldly upon the growing of plants from seeds.
Look, for example, at a great bed of Sweet Williams, what a
gorgeous mass of colour it presents. To have such a bed, we must
sow seeds in the first instance. Or look at a frame filled \\ii\\ poly-
anthuses in bloom, and how exquisite are their lacings of gold and
jet. Here, again, to fill the frame one packet of seed will suffice,
though if named sorts are preferred plants must be purchased.
Even common border annuals appear to me much more interesting
than the best of bedding plants, because we must grow them from
seed; they thus become our children; they seem to be dependent
upon us ; we have an interest in their life history, and these thoughts
and feelings make in the mind and heart an aggregate of delight.
But I say no more on the general subject, for the theme particularly
specified in the heading to this chapter demands attention.
Eespecting seeds, all the first-class seedsmen supply good auricula
seed. The seed is carefully saved by cultivators who possess col-
lections, and if it is good it commands a high price. Those who
48 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
intend to raise auriculas from seed, therefore, may buy with safety,
provided they go to the most respectable seedsmen, and pay the most
respectable price. Cheap seed of any florists' flowers is not worth
sowing. If cheap seed were given me, I would only burn it. When
the collector has a good collection, seed may be saved at home, and
every cultivator prefers seed that has grown under his own inspec-
tion ; to say nothing of the additional interest that is created by the
process of hybridizing. I conclude that you have the seed, and now
for the disposal of it.
In the essay on the Auricula in " Grarden Favourites" — the only
essay on the subject in any modern work that is worth reading —
Mr. Hibberd recommends sowing one part of the seed as soon as it
is ripe, and the remainder in the month of February following.
This is excellent advice, and indeed it would be better for the
veteran cultivator to sow all his seed as soon as dead ripe. But for
beginners, and those amateurs who wish to reduce to the least
possible amount of labour their several gardening pursuits, sowing
in February or March answers very well. To sow in the open
border is almost as bad as throwing the seed away. Procure some
large shallow pans or wooden boxes — they must he sJialloiv — cover the
bottoms of these receptacles with an inch or two of small crocks,
and over that lay a mixture of three parts mellow hazel loam, one
part turfy peat, one part leaf-mould, and one part sharp sand. Fill
nearly to the edge of the box or pan, and then press the soil quite
firm with a flat piece of wood ; sprinkle the seed thinly all over, and
cover with an eighth of an inch of the sand soil, and press down again
with a piece of board.
I suppose the soil to be in a moderate state of moisture, so that
it will not require watering. It is well to manage so that there will
be no need to water till the plants are up. This cannot always be
done. There are just two advices suitable in reference to this matter.
The first is, lay a sheet of common window glass over the seed-boxes
or pans to check evaporation, and as soon as there is a lair sprinkling
of green upon the soil, owing to the sprouting of the seed, take the
glasses ofi. The second is, if the seed-pans want water, fill some
large vessel with water, and gently lower the seed-pans into it. The
water will flow over the soil, and wet it through, without disturbing
a particle of soil or seed. This is a golden rule for watering seed-
pans. The last point to be considered is, whether w^e shall submit
the seeds to heat or not. My advice is, be content to keep the
seed-pans in a frame or pit, safe from frost, wind, and sunshine, and
wait. If the seed is good it will all germinate in time. Still, a
gentle heat may be used, and the result will be a more uniform and
quicker sprouting of the seed. The danger is that now and then the
heat may be too much, and to avoid that danger I have always pre-
ferred to wait till the increasing warmth of the season causes the
seed to germinate without artificial help.
Some time between the sowing of the seed and the first appear-
ance of the plants, make up a bed to receive them. The best way
is to make up this bed in a frame, so that a light can be put on for
the winter. But this may be dispensed with. In any case, the
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 49
bed must be well drained, and must consist of light sandy loam,
enriched with about a third part of quite rotten manure. Into this
bed transplant the seedlings, as soon as they have five leaves each,
and plant them in the bed five inches apart every way. Water as
needful, shade from the hottest sun ; if blooms appear in autumn, nip
them out ; when winter comes, protect from storms by means of a
few hurdles put aslant, or by means of frames laid flat over them,
with flower-pots to keep them at a proper height. If you take no
notice of them at all, you will probably not lose one, but they will
look better in the spring if sheltered, than if left to all the injurious
efi*ects of rain, wind, and frost. When they flower, mark the best
with numbers, and enter in a book the numbers, with accompanying
descriptions ; and in July take up such as are worth special atten-
tion, and pot them. As for the rest, plant them in the borders, or
give them away, or destroy them.
Alpine auriculas are of less value than the show varieties, but
they are exquisitely beautiful. Mr. Charles Turner, of Slough, has
of late years shown alpines in such splendour, that many auricula-
growers, who would a few years ago have shuddered to have such
things, are now collecting the best and raising seedlings. The
depth of the body-colour, the purity of the gold or sulphur-
coloured paste, and the matchless form of some of the alpine
auriculas are —
" Tilings to dream of with more ardency
Than the death-day of empires."
The raising of alpines from seed is an amusement particularly
well adapted for ladies, indeed I wonder every lady gardener has not
a little collection of these gems, so refined and lustrous are they,
yet so simple in their beauty. As to the raising of alpines, there is
no better process than that described above for the show kinds,
therefore to recommend them is the best I can do.
I have given above the mixture of soils I have long used for the
seed-pans, and I am satisfied no better mixture can be made. But
I have seen some good seedlings raised by an amateur w^bo had
nothing better than common garden loam and some cocoa-nut fibre.
He Diixed a fifth part of the fibre with sifted loam, and having sown
the seeds, covered it with a quarter of an inch of the finest of the
fibre, carefully sifted out from the mass.
A PEW SUPERB YAEIEGATED-LEAYED BEDDERS.
pRTSANTHEMUM SENSATION has acquired un-
usual importance in consequence of its beautiful creamy
variegation and its perfect hardness. It will be a
valuable auxiliary to the variegated geraniums, and in
many cases supersede them. The stock for bedding
may be struck in March or April, and the plants can be trained and
VOL. II. — NO. II. 4
50 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
pinched so as to make a close mass of creamy yegetation, or may be
allowed to grow to full height.
Alternanthera parois'tchioides is the best of the new series
of amaranths lately introduced from Brazil. It is of rather diminu-
tive growth as compared with Coleus and Amaranthus melancholicus,
and quite distinct in character. The prevailing colours are olive,
crimson, and orange red. It requires the same treatment as Coleus,
and must be planted four inches apart every way for a rich efiect.
Iresixe Uerbstii has been much abused, but we have so fre-
quently seen it in beautiful condition, and making a fine effect with
its heavy mixture of bronze, purple, and crimson, that we do not
hesitate to recommend it. It is very bold and distinct, very hardy,
and lasts far into the autumn, when other foliage bedders are
fading away. It needs to be contrasted with brighter objects to
have the richness proper to it, and it makes a fine dividing line
between silvery or golden leaves.
Antennaeia tomentosa is the most perfect silvery-leaved
edging-plant ever seen. It grows as close as moss, and is as bril-
liant as the whitest of the Centaureas. Every amateur who prac-
tises bedding should obtain this plant, and practise patience in
getting up a stock of it for margins of beds. Messrs. E. Gr. Hen-
derson possess it, but whether it is generally distributed we do
not know.
Golden Balm. — This was first made known in the Floral
World, and has become deservedly popular. But many amateurs
forget what was said about it in the first instance, that it should be
planted where it is to remain, and should not be disturbed for
several years. Then the older it is the richer are its colours, and it
really rivals Golden Chain geranium in its splendid appearance.
Dactylis glomerata roLiTs YARiEGATis. — The varicgatcd
Dactylis is invaluable for edgings, forming neat tufts of grassy
foliage, very brilliantly variegated. In all good gardens it has
become a leading member of the group of plants used for edging.
To increase the stock, it is only necessary to tear up the plants in
August, and plant at once where they are to remain. It is quite hardy.
PoA TEiviALis, in a variegated form, has been introduced to public
notice by Messrs. E. G. Henderson and !Son. It is remarkable for grace-
fulness of form and exquisite purity of creamy variegation, verging
towards pure white. It is a grass of tender leafage, growing natu-
rally in a thick lawn-like mass, and adapted either for edging beds
or actually to make close plots of silvery herbage. Possibly this
very plant may lead to quite new modes of displaying bedding
plants, for if we lay down a white instead of a green ground for a
pai'terre, the colouring of the beds will have to be altered very much
from the styles that prevail. As an edging plant it is invaluable,
and for growing in pots and in tufts on the rockery, worth a place
in every garden.
Sa:n'tolina ixcan-a. — A thoroughly hardy plant, growing four
inches high, the branches closely set with minute silvery grey leaves,
making a neat edging when regularly pinched back.
Yariegated Iyies. — We have yet to see justice done to these
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 51
beautiful plants. If employed for edgiugs, we should see the out-
lines of the beds marked as plainly and as brishtly all the winter as
in summer. Many of them, such as the Cuilisii variety of the
silvery-edged ivy, acquire beautiful red tintings in winter, and are
almost equal to tricolour geraniums. Messrs. Lucombe, Piuce, and
Co., of Exeter, have long since adapted variegated ivies to their proper
use, and have some margins formed of ivies in their flower garden.
Artemisia argentea. — This lovely plant may be grown as a
close line, and then makes a lustrous silvery edging ; or it may be
formed into a perfect little tree, in which case it is very elegant, and
well adapted for decorative purposes. It is as hardy as chickweed,
and, in the form of a miniature tree, well adapted for the embellish-
ment of the winter garden.
CoLEus Veeschaffelti is not superseded by any of the newly-
discovered plants that compete with it, by a display of richly-
coloured leaves. It is as valuable as ever, and when effectively
contrasted, presents a glorious mass of the richest crimson, deep-
ening to chocolate shades. It is a most easy task to propagate this
fine plant ; all that is needful is a steady moist heat. The cuttings
may be taken off as fast as suitable shoots are produced on the old
plants, and they root well in about ten days. From the present
time to the end of March is most suitable for propagating this
plant, to have a nice stock for planting at the end of May.
Amaeanthus mela:n'Cholicxjs. — This splendid plant is, like the
Coleus, still unique in its way ; none of the newer Amaranths sur-
passing it in colour. Any quantity may be grown with as much
ease as growing stocks or balsams. A pinch of seed sown now, or
in the course of three or four weeks, in light soil, and placed in a
steady heat of 60°, will in due time furnish plants that will be
strong for planting out in May. S. H.
AEUJSTDO CONSPICUA.
T is important that every amateur gardener should be
acquainted with this noble hardy grass, for though it
does not eclipse or supersede the glorious Pampas grass
(^Gynerium arcjenteuiii) it will be valued wherever the
pampas is regarded as an embellishment of the garden.
It is of robust growth, with broader leaves than the pampas, but
the leaves are considerably less in length, and the plant makes a
flatter mass ; or at all events we cannot compare it to a fountain,
which is the favourite figure when the pampas is described. Arundo
conspicua is not only bold and distinct as a grass, but it flowers
most abundantly from the middle of June to the end of November.
This is one of its best features, for throughout the greater part of
the summer, and long before the lovely Gynerium shows a single
spike, this is covered with silvery panicles, that render it at once a
conspicuous and a beautiful adornment of the garden. Any good
soil will suit it, but in a rich soil with plenty of water all the sum-
mer, it becomes a grander plant than if starved. S. H.
CULTUEE OF GESNEEA ZEBRINA.
BY J. SAUNDEES.
[HE general management of this fine gesnera does not
materially differ from that of others, except that I
would recommend a rather stronger soil. A compost
of turfy loam of a free texture, well rotted leaf-mould,
and light fibry peat, in equal quantities, with sufficient
sand to keep the whole open, that the roots and water may freely
precolate through it, is most proper. In potting these plants, it is
too frequently the practice to retain a considerable portion of the
old earth in which the plant has been kept through the winter,
merely rubbing off the outside of the ball ; this is decidedly wrong,
because the earth, after having supported the plant for six months,
and after that been thoroughly dried, in order to preserve the roots
while resting, cannot reasonably be supposed to retain any nourish-
ment. Yet it is into this the first-formed roots of the season will
have to make way, and on it depend for their first supply of
food, before they can reach the outer stratum of new earth ; mean-
while they are starving. I would therefore advise that the whole
of the old earth in which the plant has been kept through
the winter be removed when it is repotted for starting; and
it is always preferable to put them into the pots they are intended
to bloom in at the first shifting, as the roots are frequently injured
by removal from one pot to another. This should be done about
the middle of March, and the pots plunged in a bark-bed or
forcing-frame with a gentle bottom-heat ; the bulbs soon begin to
grow, when plenty of water should be given, and by the end of
April when the sun usually attains great power, it will be advisable
to shade them slightly, which should be continued through the
summer.
If they are grown in a stove, a back shelf, rather shaded, will
be the best situation for them during the hot weather, though I
greatly prefer either a plant or a frame, as the pit then assumes a
more healthy habit ; and thus naturally induces an abundant bloom,
though on this head little danger can be incurred from either
method, as the plant is by nature so exceedingly prolific of flowers ;
still, by the management in frames, the quantity and closeness of
the foliage is increased, and therefore I think it most desirable.
With the simple attention to watering, the plant will begin to flower
in September, and continue to do so for the following three months ;
after which it should be allowed to become dry, lessening the
supply of water gradually and regularly. While the plant is bloom-
ing, the lightest aiid warmest part of the house should be allotted
it, and at this season of the year it is worth}^ of the best situation
that can be found. I may observe that though this plant, and,
indeed, nearly the whole of the genus, are natives of margins of
woods, yet they require, when under artificial treatment, a free and
full supply of air, or they become attenuated.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 53
Another matter of some moment is to observe in watering to
avoid wetting the foliage, if it is ever necessary to give it them
while the sun is shining, for the water will accumulate upon the
leaves, and then, acting as a focus to the rays of the sun, will be the
means of burning the foliage.
By attention to these simple directions, the happiest results will
occur, and one of the finest of stove plants will be produced. Most
of the bulbous-rooted species of gesnera thrive exceedingly wdth
this treatment, only that in forming the compost for them a smaller
portion of loam should be given, and the proportion of peat in-
creased.
LIST OF HAEDY DECIDUOUS TEEES
WITH OEIJ^AMENTAL FOLIAGE.
Acer Lohelii, a beautiful fastigiate tree, beset from top to toe with short twigs
and rosettes of crenated foliage.
Acer negundo variegata, a free-growing tree of diffuse habit, the leaves almost
white, and probably the whitest-leaved hardy tree known.
'Acer pseudo platamis foliis argenteis, the well-known silver-leaved sycamore,
a lovely sight in early spring when the new foliage is expanding,
Acer purpureum, the well-known purple sycamore ; under side of the -^aves
deep purple.
Ailanthtis glandulosa has grand pinnated leaves, and when the tree attains to a
good stature is a very noble object. It will grow in the poorest and dry est soil ; iu
fact, a rich soil does not suit it.
Berberis vulgaris foliis purpureis, a very distinct variety of the common Ber-
beris, the leaves deep brownish-purple, and very striking when judiciously placed in
the shrubbery. The best specimens we have yet seen of this are in the plantations at
Sydenham. It is there a very remarkable object. In many other places it gi'ows
poorly, and has very little colour. Climate seems to have more to do with the dif-
ference than soil.
Fagus heterophgUa, the elegant and well-known fern-leaved beech.
Fagus pendula, the weeping beech, a most elegant object.
Fagus purpurea glabra, the smooth-leaved purple beech, fine for lawns and
walks.
Fagus sylvatica cristata^ the crested-leaved beech ; curious.
Fagus sylvatica citprea, the noble copper-leaved beech, one of the grandest deci-
duous trees known.
Fagus sylvatica foliis variegatis argeateis, the silver-leaved beech, a free grower,
and very beautiful in the early part of the season.
Fraxinus asplenifoUa, the fern-leaved ash.
Fraxinus excelsior argentea, the silver-striped leaved ash.
Fraxinus excelsior argentea pendula^ a weeping variety of the last-named.
Gymnocladus canadense, the Kentucky coffee-tree, is a curiosity well worth
a place in a collection of choice trees. During the summer its large green
pinnated leaves have a fine efi'ect, but in winter it has a deader look than any other
tree we know.
Halimodendron argenteum, a Siberian shrub, formerly known as Caragana
Halimodendron. It belongs to the Fabaceous section of Leguminous plants, and is
usually grafted on the laburnum. It is one of the most elegant trees that can be
planted on a lawn, having silvery foliage and pink flowers.
Juglans regia pendula^ the weeping walnut, a handsome tree on a large lawn or
on a mound.
Kerria Japonica foliis argenteo variegatis, a very elegantly variegated form
of one of our most useful cUmbing shrubs, the leaves broadly margined with
creamy-white.
54 THE FLOEiX TVOELD A^"D GARDEN GUIDE.
KoelretUeria paniculata^ a hardy Chinese tree, with beantiful leaves, flowers,
and firuit, and an interesting habit of growth.
Liquidamler imlerhe, a maple-like tree of moderate growth, the leaves of which
die off in autumn a fine purplish-red.
Flatanv.g acerifolia dijitaia, a fastigiate plane, very cnrious in its habit,
JPlcUantis acerifolia jpyramiO.alit, the finest of the hardy planes for London
gardens, and for dry hot soils where such trees as elm, oak, and othere requiring a
deep moist loam do not thrive.
FojjuluK canescenfs jiendula^ an exquisitely beautiful weeping tree.
Populv^ iremula pendv.la, if possible more beautiful than the last.
Flerocarya Caucasica, a low tree with glossy pinnated foliage. Very distinct
and fine for fchrubbery borders.
Quercv^ cerrii pendula, a beautiful pendulous oak, and indispensable where
there are any pretensions made to ornamental arboriculture.
Ehui jlalra, the sumach, is one of the most ornamental trees we possess, and
unequalled for its vivid scarlet colouring just before the leaves fall.
Robinia pnetid-acacia, a well-known tree, remarkable for its elegant growth. Un-
fortunately, it makes more litter than any oti^er tree in our gardens.
Saliihuria adiantifoUa, the elegant maiden-hair tree, a noble object for a wil-
derness walk or mound.
Salix Americana pendula, remarkably graceful.
Sallx caprea pendida, the Kilmarnock weeping willow ; a beautiful tree for
water scenes.
Sophora Japonica penduluy the very perfection cf a weeping tree ; does not grow
to any great size.
Tdia alba peniula, makes a bold weeping tree, sweeping the ground with its
ample foliage and gracefully pendant branches,
Tilia Eur
pectaole,
and one that gave thorn almost us great a chill as the plants. It is difficult to know,
when overtaken with such a misfortune, the best thing to do ; but the plan I
adopted myself, and whicli was attended with considerable success, was to remove
them at cnce into a dark cellar, belore the sun had time to get round upon the house,
and shtd its fatal rays upon tliL-m. This, of course, is a troublesome operation, and
when the cold is so intense that j-ou can scarcely feel the pots iu your hands, it is
anything but agreeable, but the constant exercise ol running up and down stairs,
with all the help you can muster (for what has to be done must be done quickly),
soon gets your blood into circulation, and the work is done almost as soon as it is
thouglit of. Iu this dark abode they were kept for some days, without admitting a
particle of light, the temperature being about 3o\ Some of them were immersed in
cold water, whilst others were not, and I am not quit^ sure whether it is not better
to let them alone, as several of those that were immersed looked in a very pitiable
condition, ispecially a large pot o'[ Francoa ramosa, which, singular to sav, is sup-
posed to be nearly haidy. Muny Lycopoainms were quite restored by watering, and
Camellias and Azaleas appeared very little the worse the following day, the Camellisis
especially ; but it is not surprising t! at they should not be hurt, as most of them are
perfectly hardy ; in fact, one tree that I had planted against a west wall in the
uutuiuu looks as well as possible, whilst a shrubby Veronica near to it looks as black
as if it had been boiled. Many of the hardiest plants have been caught severely
where the tops came out above the snow and were exposed to the sun, whereas the
lower parts are as fre-h and green as they are in May. It is this that gives us such
comfort when we think of our tea roSvS. the tops of which are killed outright, but
are not the least the worse for that. I did not think it well to te>t the hardiness of
Marcchal Neil, about which theie has been some little ditVerence of opinion of late;
on the contrary, I took the precaution just in time of covering it well with dry fern,
56 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
upon which fell some inches of snow, but lest there should not be sufficient to keep
out the frost, I threw a wheel-barrow full more upon it, burying the Mar^chal in an
avalanche, the result of which was that not a leaf was injured by frost ; and, only to
show what a great protection snow is, I gathered both Violets and Primroses imme-
diately after the thaw that were quite uninjured. The Roses that appear to have
suffered most are the Noisettes, for they cover such a large space upon walls, that it
is almost impossible to protect more than the roots and lower parts ; but it is much
better to do thus much than not at all, as they cover the place a^jain in a year or so
if cut down. Celine Forestier, Triuraphe de Rennes, and Lamarque look rather de-
plorable at present, but a large tree of Solfaterre, which was moved to a west wall
in November, I have more hope of, as the sap had gone down so much that the
branches were shrivelled, and in that state much less susceptible of frost. Tiie old
Gloire seems little the worse for the pinch, and Madame Falcothas stood it tolerably,
but it is impossible to tell the extent of damage among roses until May. There are
many things that have received a wholesome check, if it has not been too much for
them, such as Clematis Jackmani, C. rubro-violacea, and C. lamigenosa, all of which
push out their young shoots too early in the spring, and consequently get cut down
in March by early frosts. There is this knowledge to be gained by the severity of
the winter, — the comparative hardiness of many things that have hitherto been con-
sidered tender, and, on the otlier hand, the protection required by some that are
supposed to be hardy. It is earnestly to be hoped that we shall not have a repetition
of the intense cold, but should it again visit us, we shall have derived some know-
ledge from the lesson it has taught us, and that, however we may be in the habit of
regarding one winter as being like another, we shall not be so easy, I think, in the
matter as again to be " caught napping."
Shrewsbury, January 11th. R. T. E.
HAEDT HERBACEOUS PLANTS.
A WOHD WITH THE o'SHANE ON HIS SELECTION AND CEITICISM.
TRUST the Editor of the Floral World will not consider the space
devoted to a discussion on our old-fashioned plants misapplied, when I
can assure him, from personal knowledge, tliat they are far more
acceptable to the public than the everlasting harping on bedding plants,
such as Viola cornuta, and stuff; our glorious old plants have too long
been in the position of " Little Jack Horner," and it is time they should come out
of the corner. When I had the boldness to criticise the O'Shane's list of fifty
herbaceous plants, 1 well remembered the lines in Hudibras —
" Of the dangers that environ
The man that meddles with sharp iron,''
and well knew the consequence of playing with edged tools and all that; but I really
was not aware that I was placing myself in antagonism with a person who had "seen
more plants growing than any other horticulturist in existence." Well, be it so ; but
" When you talk of what you -view.
Think others see as well as yon ;"
and the O'Shane having publicly written to me, and invited me to reply, there is
nothing left for me but to "gird up my loins" and do it. My putting the word
" cultivator" was not to cast any insinuations, but simply to imply that their culti-
vation was with me a matter of necessity ; and while with some they were mere
matters of pleasure, they are to me both my pleasure and my bread. Let me assure
the gentleman that my data are not derived from passing a liie-time in Ormskirk;
I have been a little farther north than that. And now, as to my ideas of mixed
borders, I had no ideas at all about horders, and gave the public a list of 100 plants
that would look well and do well anywhere — plants that aie worthy of any position
and would disgrace none — plants as individualities and not as associations or con-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 57
nections — plants that need not propping up behind their neighbour's back, nor to
peep over their fellow's shoulder. There is a place for all the tall things you
mention— Phloxes, Campanulas, Delphiniums, etc., and I had prepared a list of tall
plants suitable for such places. And as regards the allusion to the seven-feet high
Tritoma, it has certainly very lofty pretensions ; but I am heretical enough to con-
sider it a very untidy plant, with no foliage at all commensurate with its "rake
handle" of a spike. I must pass by your notice on Campanulas. Many of these are
truly beautiful, but the reflexing of the outer corolla of C. coronata and its milky
whiteness are matters of special interest. I feel certain that much confusion exists
in this and other tribes of plants; thus, in the number of the Floral World for
January, the Editor speaks of C. carpatica, three inches. This certainly cannot be
what is known about here as C. carpatica. Granted that Narcissus triandnis is
not so capable of roughing it as poeticus, odorus, and others, simply because it is
too rare and expensive ; but it is hardy anywhere, and is of matchless beauty. N.
hulbocodium does excellently in our damp sandy soil. Papaver involucra maxima,
which I see is creeping into many catalogues, if not a species, must have originated
from *' bracteata," which its brncteated stem seems to indicate. I shall not descend
to individual criticism on the O'Sliane's list, as he has done with mine ; but, in the Brst
place, I have not agood plant nor anysortofaplant at all of Z>racocei?fea?«w^mnrf«^orM772.
I never had but two plantsof it, which I was forced topartwith. Ifound it in a garden
of a small road-side inn some distance from here, and I should be glad to beg, buy, or
borrow a plant of it myself. Saw it in a London catalogue the other day, and sent
for it; of course they had not got it. I cannot see how you can call Lobelia siphi-
litica second rate; all that I know is it is much in demand. My Ranunculus, I
find, is not R. montana I had years ago under the name of the "Mountain Ranun-
culus." It has a very pubescent leaf, habit of plant like Ranunctdus ceris phno, but
far more handsome. As to the prize offered by the Editor of the " Gardeners'
Magazine" for a selection of Alpines, if you will oblige me with particulars, whether
the list must comprise truly Alpine plants, or plants suitable for rockeries, I will
certainly have a try. I consider AspTiodelus ramosus, the " King's Spear," fit for
the hand of any king or even queen, and am sorry you appear so [much out of
humour with the pretty yellow foxglove. You ask what is Digitalis speciosa.
Don't know; never heard of it; never mentioned it! The reason 1 mentioned the
worst Yucca {fitamentosa) is because it is the best to flower. When well looked
after it flowers freely, and is always a sensation plant, and a well-flowered large
mass of it is before all the Tritomas in the world. Y. gloriosa, Y. reciirva, and
Y. glaucesens are not often seen in flower. Gloriosa was in flower a summer or
two ago in a garden near Beaumaris, and all the people went on pilgrimage to see
the '* wonderful aloe," as it was called in the papers. Cheiranthiis Marshallii is a
hardy perennial plant, and a most beautiful thing it is. I have grown it for fifteen
years ; it is even quite shrubby. I feel sorry for your positiveness as regards this
fine plant, and feel certain that my assertions will be borne out by all who know
the plant. I know C. alpina very well, and shall not confound it with Marshallii.
I do not know whether Stachys aurantiaca is a proper species. I had it above twenty
years ago, from a nurseryman at St. Leonards; it is a curious shade of brown-
orange, a pretty companion for S. coccinea. Perhaps it is one of those things that
you have not seen, and is no more a Phlomis than a duett is a fiddle. Statice lati-
folia is a noble thing. I see you have withdrawn Trillium grandijlorum, more
curious than useful. What has become of I. sessilis 1 I am sorry you cannot
deteimine your Iberis Gibraliarica. If /. sempervirens is distinct from /. saxatilisy
I do not know one from the other. I have a fine variety of 7. garrexiana, but the
best of all tliese fine things is what is known as I. corifolia (not correafolia). I
shall have a word to say on these plants some day. I am glad of your deter-
mination to rescue these old things from oblivion. I had intended the same thing
myself, but will gladly yield up ; but I believe there is work for more than one in
this line; and as for your promise of calling on me, come and welcome.
J. Williams.
58
THE GAEDEN ORACLE EOE 1867.
HIS, the ninth issue of the " Garden Oracle," will, I trust, be found as
useful and original as any of its predecessors. I have bestowed the
usual pains on the descriptions of new plants, new flowers, and new
fruits. The descriptions of plants are taken from the accepted authori-
ties, the descriptions of flowers and fruits are, with very few exceptions,
the result of personal observation and comparison. This is the only garden almanack
which gives iudependent descriptions and criticisms ; in other works such (so-called)
descriptions are merely professional pufl^s. The " selections for 1867 " have cost me
an immensity of labour, for I have not only gone through all the classes carefully,
but have distinguished in each the best 100, best 50, best 12, best 6, etc., as ap-
peared most likely to meet the wants of amateurs whose desire it is to grow the best
varieties only, and who have neither the means nor the time to buy at random and
discover tor tiiemselves which are the best. Persons in need of a J'eic camellias, or
auriculas, or roses, or others in need of a large collection of any particular class of
flowers, will be equally assisted by reference to the Oracle, to the saving of their
pockets, and perhaps also of their time, their temper, and their available space
of ground and glass. The principal feature of the new issue of the Oracle is
the list of fruits. On this I have bestowed great pains. It has. in fact, been in
hand some months, and I preferred to publish late and risk the loss of some part of
the sale rather than a single page should pass without thoughtful revision. It must
be remembered that the 500 (or thereabout) varieties enumerated in the list were
selected from some 5000 or more, the object bemg to place before the reader the
best 6, 12, 20, 50, etc., in anj' particular class, and thus make the selection at once
adapted for the possessor of a few rods of ground, and needing only half a dozen
fruit-trees, and the manager of extensive vineries, graperies, peacheries, and
orchards. All I claim for my work is, that it is original, independent, and consci-
entious ; and I feel compelled by these tokens to dibiinguish it from other works to
which it might happen to be compared. As to its merits or demerits in other
respects, I leave the public to judge, and I am not in the least nervous as to the
ultimate decision. S. H.
RAISING AND FRUITING POT VINES AS PRACTISED IN
ENGLAND.
BY M. A. PAVARD,
(Member of the Imperial and Central Horticultural Society of Paris).
SOURING- the course of ISTovember, when the wood of the vines from which
cuttings are to be taken is sufficiently ripe, they are cut so that each
shall contain an eye. They are planted in pots of about two inches in
diameter, care being taken that the pots are well drained, and filled with
good field earth rather light tljan strong. These slips are planted at
such a depth that the top of the eye or knot is almost level with the earth in the pot.
Some persons proceed as for ordinary slips — that is to say, they plant slips that are
furnished with two buds. After this the pots are buried in a tan-bed formed in a
greenhouse, heated little by little up to 70' or 75^ Fahrenheit. The humidity of the
atmosphere is maintained by frequently watering the flues, the walls, and the paths.
As soon as the young plants begin to develope themselves, air is admitted on fine
days ; the humid heat is at the same time kept up, that they may receive no check.
When the roots touch the sides of the pots, the slips are placed in new ones
about nine inches in diameter, care being taken, as in the first instance, that the
pots are well drained. In the repotting, a more substantial soil is employed than
before ; this is often mixed with fine sand of a white pulverized kind, which, by faci-
litating the passage of the water, prevents its remaining to stagnate about the roots.
After the repotting, the pots are buried in a bed of tan placed in a greenhouse of
sufficient height to prevent jts being necessary to bend the young stems, which must
be allowed to grow up without the least obstacle to their straightness. To avoid
THE rLOHAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 59
placing a prop to each plant, -which, besides being liable to hurt the roots, is a some-
what tedious operation, iron rods are placed about nine inclies above each row of
pots the whole length of the greenhouse, and as the stems attain the requisite height
they are fastened to them. Their leaves and the flues are constantly wetted; they
are watered when they require it, and nioi-e and more air is admitted as the season
advances. Only a humidity agreeing with the elevation of tbe temperature must be
cai-efully kept up — this being most essential to the thorough well-doinjr of tbe plant.
Towards the end of August the young plants will be about fmm one yard and a
half to two yards in height, their diameter varying according to the .species. Their
Tegetation now becomes slower, and the quantity of air is increased even during the
night; then, when the leaves begin to fall, all the plants are buried to a depth
covering the pots, in beds prepared for them. Latlis are fixed to stakes burieii in
the beds, to which the branches are attached, so that the wind can neither agitate
nor break them. On this plan the wood becomes completely ripened, and the plants
are then ready for sale. They are usually sold to persons who force them during
the following winter in such a manner that these slips bear fruit eighteen months
after having been planted.
A few words upon the method most generally employed in forcing these young
plants will support what I advanced above— that the slips produce fruit at the period
mentioned. The greenhouses commonly used for the purpose are of such a slope —
the back wall so much higher than the front one— that the frame presents its incline
to the full power of the sun. These kinds of greeenhouses are so much beneath the
level of the ground that the higher wall does not rise above it more than from
twenty-four inches to about a yard.
The flues circulate in front of these houses. A shelf placed about six inches
above the principal flue serves to support the pots. These preparations finished, the
place is gradually heated up to about 60' or 70' Fahrenheit. The pots and flues are
frequently wetted, and the upper flue is also often provided with a gutter kept con-
stantly full of water, so as to disengage a vapour which, applied to tiie tides of the
pots, excites vegetation. When the plants begin to bud, a little air is admitted in
suitable weather. Openings made in the back and front walls, and closed by
shutters, permit the entrance of air, while cold winds are excluded. When the
shoots become long enough, they are trained upon the iron rods running along the
sides of the frame. The remaining cares consist in nipping ofi" buds, if required,
and the necessary waterings, using water as much as possible of the temperature of
the forcing house, which must be kept some de;;rees higher iu the day than at night.
After five or six months of this culture well carried out_, the grapes, according to
the variety and the period at which their forcing commenced, begin to ripen. The
wetting of the flues, etc., is then diminished, and more air given up to the time of
gathering the fruit. Once this :s over, many persons do not retain the vines, which,
to their ideas, are then entirely exhausted.
Vines thus reared frequently produce, notwithstanding the smallness of the pots,
grapes of good size, bunches weighing a pound or moie being not uncommon. It is
true that liquid manures, which need so much care in their successful employment,
are much used in this culture.
These facts explain why this mode of cultivation is in such great repute among
our neighbours, for it is not rare to meet in England with establi-hmeats that each
year obtain from two to three thousand plants for the purpose of forcing.
Frl-it Trees on Pook Soils. — On a barren and sh'dlo^ soil, pears crack, and
come hard and rough ; apples the same, more especially in dry seasons. Where
such is the case, the trees should be treated liberally. Dg up with a fork the
ground above the roots, and give at intervals during the spring several dressings of
fowls,' pigeons,' or pigs' dung, so that it may be washed in by the rains; and as
soon as the sun becomes powerful in May or June, mulch over the ground so
manured with short stable litter, seaweed, or something of the kind, and in dry
weather see that the trees are well watered, not by a can or two of water, but by
bringing the water-cart under the tree and there emptying it. If this treatment
were applied to trees on the quince, paradise, and other dwarfing stocks, when they
happen to be planted on shallow and dry soils, there would be no room for the
complainis which we sometimes hear that " the fruit cracks."
60
A FINE VINE.
fNE of the most remarkable vines we have ever seen is now in full
bearing in Kaye's Nursery at Finculey. It is not so large as
either the Hampton Court or Cumberl md Lodge vines, much smaller,
in fact ; but in point of size of bunch neither of these, nor any
other vines we are acquainted with, approach it. The Cumberland Lodge
vine is considerably finer than the Hampton Court, and bears about 2000 bunches,
looking meanwhile as if cribbed and confined for room, as the shoots reach the ex-
tremity of the great house, and are there cut off, just as we are obliged to do in
small vineries ; but one of the Fmchley bunches is as large as three of those we
have seen at Hampton C )urt and Cumberland Lodge. Tiie fact is, the vine may be
grown to a fabulous size If supplied with all the root room it can occupy, and a suit-
able soil, and with house-room, so that there is not so much of the remarkable
about those two famous vines ; but the Finchley vine, while extraordinary as regards
size, is still more so, as we have said, for the size of its bunches.
The curioiK part of the matter is that no unusual pains were spent upon the
making of the border in which this fine vine grows. It is made on a hard clay
bottom, a considerable quantity of brick rubbish being placed on that part, with a
slope to a drain at the front of the border, which is about 15 feet wide. It is not
quite raised above the level of the surrounding ground, as most borders are with our
great growers. The soil of the border is not that epicurean kind of loam recom-
mended by most writers on the vine, but just the top spit which had been cleared
off^ building ground in various parts of the district — now and then very sandy, occa-
sionally of a stiff and unctuous clayey texture, with here and there a lot of brick
rubbish ; in short, a mixture of the better kinds of earth and rubbish which are so
easily obtained in a suburban or other district where much building is going on.
The border is about four feet in depth. No manure is mixed with its ingredients,
except what little may descend from the remains of the annual wmter covering of
stable manure with which it is protected during the winter and early spring months.
The house is 89 ft. long by 18 ft. wide, spun roofed, and heated with hot- water
pipts. The vine enters at the middle of one side, and goes across the roof, making
five equal breaks, or, in other words, sending five fine opposite bi*anches to each
end of the house, the base of the main stem being of gi'eat thickness for a vine
vrhich has not been planted ten years. It quite fills the house, and would no doubt
furnish three times the superfices it now does if the house and border were suffi-
ciently extended. At the time of our visit it bore about 300 magnificent bunches
of grapes, running from 2 lb. to 5 lb. weight each. What struck us as most remark-
able was that the bunches were equally fine all over the house, the lowest and
farthest extremities of the building exlii biting bunches as heavy and as fine as the
highest and most favourable parts. Usually, with ordinary vines, much discre-
pancy occurs between the bunches on the same rod. It is doubtful if such a crop
of heavy bunches was ever before shown by one plant, as however large we may
grow the poor Syrian and other grapes, of large bunch but inferior quality, to obiaia
such bunches as these of the Black Hamburgh, even on a vine of the ordinary size,
is considered very good work. The attainment of the result we have mentioned by
simple means is well worthy of record. It surely proves that vine culture of the
highest character is a much more simple afi'air than amateu.rs and many practical
horticulturists believe it to be. There are many glass arcade roofs that might be
highly embellished and rendered profitable by such a plant as this. If the amateur
instead of building a few distinct small houses, would erect a good roomy one, and
cover the roof with vines, it would give much more satisfaction than is often attained
hy those who have not much time or attention to devote to glass-houses. A large
span-roofed vinery of the sort might be made to aff'ord a very agreeable promenade
in winter, a home for considerable qv^antities of greenhouse and bedding plants,
shelves for early-potted strawberries on each side, room for a fine bloom of chry-
santhemums in autumn, and not a few other things for which special structures are
often provided. In summer, when, the fruit would be ripening, and the foliage occu-
pying the roof, we cars very little for the indoor garden, and are usually too glad to
leave it, while the plants we have named must, for the most part, be out of doors or
in frames.— TAe Field.
61
iSTEW PLANTS.
I ATTLEYA DOWIANA, Captain Bow's Cattleya {Botanical Magazine,
• t. 5618). — Orchidacese. This superb Cattleya was. discovered by Wiirs-
zewicz in Costa Bica, but in the course of time was lost. It has been
rediscovered by M. Arce, and has flowered in the establishment of
Messrs. Yeitch and Son at Chelsea. The pseudo bulbs are eight inches
to a foot high, much swollen and furrowed. Leaves one on each pseudo bulb,
rather broad for tlie genus, from a span to a foot long. Peduncle two to six
flowered, very stout ; flowers very large and gorgeously coloured, the huge sepals
and petals being clear nankeen, and the lip purple and velvety, with golden
threads radiating from its centre. This superb plant is easily grown, but requires
the warmest end of the Cattleya house.
Rhaphia t^digera, the Torch Palm {IJ Illustration Eorticole^i. 499) . — Palmace^e.
This is an elegant palm, a native of Brazil, where it inhabits the sides of rivers and
lagoons, but is rarely found in the forests of the interior. It attains a noble stature,
and throws out from the summit of a slender stem a graceful head of plume-like
leaves.
Dendrobium Charltonii {Hihherd) — This beautiful"species has been forwarded
to us fi-om Colonel Charlton, of Farm Hill, Braddon, Isle of Man. It bears some
resemblance to D. primulinum, but is scarcely so attractive, owing to its less bril-
liant colour. It is of very free habitj the leaves are about a span long, lanceolate,
distinctly ribbed, dull dark green. The flowers are produced in large diffuse
racemes, sepals and petals neai'Iy equal in size, their colour pale buff yellow. The
lip Jbas a tinge of purplish brown at the base, but is otherwise the same colour as the
other parts of the flower. Its free habit is a great recommendation to the cultivator.
Unfortunately it is quite destitute of odour. The plant has been named in honour
of a nephew of Colonel Charlton, who, like himself, is an enthusiastic cultivator of
orchids.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Variegated Ivy. — H. T. ^., Shreioshury. — Your ivy is the common variegated
Irish, the garden name for it is Hedera Canariensis variegata. The maculata variety
is spotted and mottled with greyish amber, and has redder leaf-stalks than the one
you send, and it is also more uniform in variegation. H. C. variegata is one of the
most inconstant and variable of all variegated plants known.
Ferns from Spores. — JF". .7. Mann. — All the ferns in your list are likely to
come from spores, provided the spores are good. The simplest and safest way to
proceed is to procure a few shallow pans, with bell-gla-ses to fit. Xext, fill the pans
to half their depth with broken pots or bricks, and then fill up to the rim with stone
or brick, pounded to the size of peas, with all the dust, or with a mixture of peat in
nodules and stone broken to the size of peas. Having raised many thousands of
ferns from spores, we have learnt to value pounded brick and stone as far superior
to peat. Sprinkle the sp^es thinly, put on the bell-glasses, and place every pan in
a larger pan filled with water, and then shut all up in a warm and rather dark part
of the stove. If you have no stove, put them in the warmest part of the green-
house. We have used with great success a large copper trough, three inches deep,
to stand the pans in, and to keep all together snug. The trough stands on a flue
under a stage, and the heat of the water in tlie trough is usually 80\ that of the
top crust of soil in the pans being about 70'. We find this plan suit stove and
greenhouse ferns equally well. When the little plants are large enough to handle,
we pot them separately, a considerable number requiring only to be lifted on
the fragment of stone tliey are attached to without any actual disturbance of the
roots.
Evergreens fob Window — JFatton. — You do not state distinctly what you
wish for in the way of information. You say : *' I have a window with an eastern
62 THE FLORAL WORLD AKD GARDEN GUIDE.
aspect, in which I intend to place places. Would you kindly name a few evergreens
that would do there ?" Tliese are the very words, and we are puzzled to know what
to make of them. If the evertrreens are to be out of doors, the best will be Biixus
rotundifolla, TImja Ja-ponica, small plants of Cedrus deodara, and a few neat varie-
gated Hollies. If iniloors, the following are suitable — Coronilla glaucay Cytisus
racemosa, Oleafragrans. For a nice weeping tree for the position you describe,
plant either Sophora Japonica pendula, or SaUx Americana pendula. If you want
a third name to choose from, Ulmus viminalis is suitable. For a town garden, S,
neat half-pendulous L iburnnm is not to be despised.
P. B. — We really cannot undertake to provide the index you propose. It would
probably be purchased by only half a dozen persons, and if so would entail a heavy
loss.
Crito. — Your first letter contained a number of queries relating solely to matters
of law. It cost us much time to read that letter, and it was set aside with the
intention of submitting it to a person skilled in the law for reply. In due time it
was discovered that to furnish a categorical reply would be to play the part of legal
adviser, at expense to ourselves, for the benefit of a single individual. We respect-
fully decline to consider the case any further, and refer you to your oivn lawyer.
Your second communication was accompanied with a parcel of leaves of trees.
These certainly are in our way, and would have had attention long since if circum-
stances had permitted. But here again we do not hold ourselves responsible,
because we have said again and again that we will not name plants from mere
leaves, for the simple reason that it is impossible. We have hundreds of imperfect
specimens sent ; if we were to labour over them as the senders desire, we shotdd be
dead in a (q\v months. We profess to know something about plants, but we avow
that we are not conjurors. However, your leaves shall be examined with care as
soon as health and lime permit, and as far as we can make them out you shall have
their names. But we plainly repudiate all responsibility respecting them. In the
same parcel was one flower, — the name of that is Carlina acaulis, the " stemless
thistle." Tliis is a scarce, curious, and most interesting plant, spreading over the
ground a mass of bold leaves like a throne, on which sits a large yellow flower with
parchment-like ray.s. It may be likened to a star on a cushion.
Dendrobium moniliforme. — J. P. Haslam. — The colours are usually light blue
I and white, but there are varieties with pink and white fl.owers.
Pruning Nut Trees— ^. P. — The reason your trees are barren is probably
owing to nt^giect of pruning. When trees have been thus neglected it requires some
years to restore them to fruitfulness. The proper system of pruning nut trees is that
which gardeners call "spurring." To restore old trees to bearing, the Kentish
method is to select a sufficient number of main branches, sufficiently far apart to
admit light to all parts of the tree, and removing all other principal branches by a
clean cut at the base. Then tbe side-shoots are cut ofi" nearly close, leaving only
two or three buds to each. But a few side-shoots maybe left their full length if they
are situated in any part of the head that wants filling up. The next season all the
young shoots must be cut off nearly close to the point they spring from, and all
strong leaders must be shortened. In the third year of the process several small
shoots will arise at the base of the side branches which were cut off the preced-
ing year, and Piom these shoots the next year's fruit may be expected. The usual
time for pruning is February.
Books. — R. B. — Any bookseller can obtain what you want. The Editor of
the Floral Would does not trade in books or seeds. On the subject of vine culture
nothing better than Mr. W. Thomson's book, published by Blackwood, price ds.
On Pines, Mr. D. Thomson's book, same publisher, same price. On roses, nothing
to equal the " Rose Book," price Ss. On Biitish Ferns, Moore's Handbook, 5s. Ou
management of small gardens, the " Town Garden," 3s. Qd.
S. J. Bullenhead. — l, Cystopteris fragilis ; 2, Pteris arguta ; 3, Lastrea dila-
tata, perhaps ; but being immature specimens, cannot say for certain.
Seedling Roses. — Henry Lamb. — The usual way of dealing with rose seed is
to put the hips (berries) in sand all winter and spring, to clean the seed from the
rubbish, and st)w it. But a much simpler way is to beat the seed out, or separate
it from the fibrous matter in which it is imbedded, and sow it in the same way as
any other seed. As the ordinary method is not the best, we propose to say a few words
more on the subject. Suppose the seed left on the bushes till the end of the year,
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 63
then let it be gathered and separated, and sowed in pans or boxes, and be placed in a
cool frame or pit. The soil should be light and sandy, consisting partly of friable
loam, leaf-mould, and quite rotten manure. The seed will germinate in any sort of
soil, but it is proper to afford the young plants such sustenance as is adapted
for them, that they may be strong from the first. "When the plants have three
leaves in addition to the seed-leaves, carefully lift them out and pot tliem separately
in the smallest sized pots, and grow them in frames or cool greenhouse with care,
shifting them to larger and larger pots as they require it, till they are in 7-inch
or 9-inch pots, and keep tliem in those pots till they flower. The seed pans, or
boxes, will afford a succession of plants for months together, as some of the seeds
will be much slower in germinating than others, Ti:e piactice of sowing in the
open ground is adapted cnly for those who grow seedling roses on a large scale.
One important matter must be borne in mind, and that is, not to allow them to
flower until they have attained some size. We have had seedling roses flower when
only four iiiches high, and in 60-size pots, which of course is an injury to them, and
the flowers are no use.
Plantesg PixcrsHiON Beds. — Stmrise. — Single plants such as Bijou geranium,
Cineraria maritima, and other striking subjects, may be put in the centres of small
pincushion bs-ds without violating good taste, for indeed such a method of using
them is usually very efi'ective. In describing the bedding at great gardens you wiU
find that we frequently speak of such beds as having " a dot " of so-and-so. It is
good taste to make the dot harmonize with the edging of the bed, that is, if the bed
has an edging. Thus, if the edging is yellowish, such as Arabis lucida variegata,
a dot of Cloth of Gold, or Mis. Pollock, is good ; if grey, such as Arabis afbida
variegata, then a grey dot such as Alma or Flower of Spring is good ; if silvery edge,
such as Cerastlum tomentosum, then a silvery centre such as Cineraria maritima
(large old plants are intensely silvery as compared with young plants), or Artemisia
argentea. Your query is not at all " insignificant : " it is rarely that an insignifi-
cant query reaches us.
Pruxixg Vixes — Alpine Stkawbeery. — A. B. — You have pruned yours right
enough. There are many ways of pruning vines, but for ground vineries they
must be kept to single rods, and there are at the very base of the laterals dormant
buds that will make fruit even when the last visible bud is cut away. In any future
case you may remember a golden rule to keep vines to close rods, and that is, to
leave one bud only of each lateral ; no matter how long or how strong the lateral,
cut all away but one bud. Probably Schsenia oppositifolia may be obtained of Mr.
Thompson, Tavern Street, Ipswich ; he imports many good things from Swan
River. The Alpine Strawberry is a variety of the English wild strawberry, and the
best way to enjoy the fruit of it is to raise plants from seed every year, and destroy
them as soon as the fruit is gathered.
Cuttings in Cocoa-nut Fibre. — A. I?.— Yes, the cuttings of verbenas,
petunias, geraniums, and indeed cuttings of almost any kind, will make roots very
quickly in this material. It is one of its peculiarities that it induces the formation
of roots more quickly than any other substance in which cuttings can be rooted.
Chbtsanthemums. — Miss A. — You will find at page 376 of the December number
a list of the varieties that w^ere in the best collections at the London exhibitions.
The following are the very best in cultivation : Large I-ncu7'ved—Ahhe Passaglia,
AntonelH, Bella Donna, Beverley, Golden Beverley, Cherub, Dr. Brock, Duchess of
Buckingham, Florence Nightingale, General Bainbrigge, General Harding, General
Slade, Golden Ball, Gloria Mundi, Hereward, Her Majesty, lona, Jardin des Plantes,
John Salter, Lady Harding, Lady Carey, Lady Slade, Mr. Brunlees, Prince Alfred,
Prince^ of Wales, Robert James, St. Patrick. Large rejlexed — Alma, Atro Rubens,
Beaute du Nord, Chevalier Domage, Christine, White Christine, Golden Christine,
Garibaldi, Jewess, Julia Grisi, Julia Lagravere, Little Harry, Madame Poggi,
Pelagia, Progne, Titania. Large Anemotie-Jlowered — Empress, Fleur de Marie,
Gluck, King of Anemones, Lady Margaret, Louis Bouamy, Prince of Anemones,
Queen Margaret, Handel. Pompones— General Canrobert,' Bob, Aurora Boreahs,
Driu Drin, Fairest of the Fair, Helene, Madame Fould, Miss Talfourd, Mrs. Dix, Mrs.
Turner, Rose Trevenna, White Trevenna, Solomon, St. Thais, Riqniqui. Pompone
Anemones— Antonins, Astrea, Boule de Ncige, Firefly, Cedo NuUi, Lilac Cedo Nulli,
Madame Montcls, Mr. Shirley Hibberd, Mr. Astie, Reine des Anemones. There are
64 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
larger selections of these in the " Garden Oracle," but those named above will be suffi-
cient for most of our readers, and in quality they cannot be beaten.
Plants Destroyed Mysteriously. — " In a small suburban garden, much ex-
posed to smoke, all young fresh leaves are eateu away as fast as they grow. Thus
the new growth of Canterbury bells, and of most bedding plants, such as Calceo-
larias, were entirely destroyed, without being able to discover the cause. Can you
tell us what is the cause of this ? — A., Liverpool." [All town gardens are infested
with vermin to ten times the extent of gardens in the open country ; this is owing
to the numerous walls, hedges, fences, rockeries, etc., which afford harbour for them.
Probably A's. plants are destroyed by wood-lice. One safe method of dealing with
the garden will be to occasionally sprinkle fresh lime lightly on the plants and the
ground between them. Another plan will be to adopt a systematic method of trap-
ping the destroyers. Clean dry pieces of bark, just as removed from trees recently
felled, are good traps, as wood-lice soon collect beneath them, and can be destroyed
wholesale. Another good plan is to take a number of small flower-pots and open
holes for thern, and plunge them to the rim amongst the plants. Into these pots
throw a few slices of apple, or potato, or fresh leaves of lettuce, and cover the
baits with dry moss. Take up the pots every mornin<2; and turn out the contents
into a pail of boiling water, and put in fresh baits, and cover with moss as before.
If snails and slugs abound, a capital system of trapping is to provide some common
roof tiles, and with them to cover little heaps of fresh brewers' grains. Take up
the tiles every morning, and the snails and slugs will be found rioting in a most
happy manner in the treat provided for them.
Chabcoal in Pots. — W. M. W. — It is a very good plan to use charcoal in
place of potsherds as drainage for pots, and you may use them again and again, any
number of times. It would be well, perhaps, to strew them on a clean pavement,
or wherever they can be fully exposed to the weather for a week or so after they
have been in use some time. Charcoal never becomes thoroughly corrupted, for it
has the property of decomposing the gases it absorbs. We cannot say which is best
for hedging, Baron Hugel, Harry Hieover, or Indispensable, because we are not
acquainted with the last named, and the other two are so different that one would
be best in one case, and vice versa. Baron Hugel has a very black zone and bright
scarlet flowers, with white eye ; Harry Hieover has green leaves, a wiry habit, and
orange-red flowers.
Vine Disease. — J. A. C. Sarleston. — Yor grapes did reach us, and we remem-
ber them well. But did any letter accompany them ? We incline to think not.
But our remembrance of the case prompts us to suggest that your jSIuscat vines are
too cold at the root to do any good. We should regard all sulphur dustings,
and all other applications of nostrums to the leaves, or any other part of the upper
growth, as useless. Probably this is a good time to consider the state of the roots,
and if you will let us know what sort of border the vines are planted in, we may be
able to advise you advantageously. As an a priori judgment, we would say that if
the roots are in an outside border, it is but rarely you can have a crop of ripe gi'apes,
for Muscat of Alexandria requires as much heat as any grape grown.
Camellia House.— J". R. C, Taunton. — The plan you propose will answer ad-
mirably. Caraelias do not want much heat, and at the time they are growing freely
the season is advancing to help them. You could see good collections at Messrs. A.
Henderson and Co., Edgware Road ; Messrs. Veitch and Son, Chelsea ; Mr. Fraser,
Lea Bridge Road ; Mr. B. S. Williams, Hollo way.
Hakdy Hebbaceous Plants. — C. C. — The O'Shane's boast was a mere burst of
jocularity, and by no means inappropriate, in reply to a certain observation made by
Mr. Williams. It is true, however, that the O'J^hane (who has another name), has
had the management of one of the best collections of hardy plants ever formed in
this country, and has studied them with an earnestness and success scarcely to be
paralleled. He is now on the Continent, and we shall probably not hear from him
for some time to come. We think it well that the discussion between him and Mr.
WiUiams should now close, but we shall always be glad to hear from Mr. Williams,
and have much enjoyed his communications.
*^* An Admirer of the Flokal Woeld will be glad if any of its readers can
introduce him to a copy of the Editor's work, "Rustic Adornments," fourteen
shilling edition. [The inquirer is Mr. J. S. Smith, of High Street, Huntingdon,]
THE FLORAL WORLD
AND
GAEDEN GUIDE
MARCH, 186T.
COLLECTING AND SELECTING.
pIATEUR cultivators who are not bound hand and foot
to the delusions of the bedding system, find exhaustless
amusement in collecting representatives of various
families of plants adapted to the means at their com-
mand for keeping and cultivating them. Where the
bedding system reigns in its full severity, this is impossible, for
greenhouses, frames, and nursery beds are all filled to overflowing
with the monotonous round of subjects that are to be planted in
May, that are to bloom in July, that are to be ragged in September,
and that are to be housed in October, leaving the places they occu-
pied empty and cold till May returns again. Collecting allies hor-
ticultural recreation with botanical science, afl:brds scope for the
exercise of thought, and occasionally quickens inquiry and research ;
it instils into the mind a larger knowledge, and into the heart a
warmer love of plants than is possible where the garden is kept as a
place for a mere display of colour during three or four months of the
whole year. It is next to impossible to avoid collecting when an
interest has been created for certain forms of vegetation. The lover
of ferns is always in want of certain species and varieties ; the cul-
tivator of succulents, of bulbs, of hardy herbaceous plants, of choice
trees and shrubs, finds that his possessions are so many keys to the
vegetable kingdom, and at every advance of knowledge accomplished
by their aid, he learns how many more interesting and beautiful
plants there are in the world which he has not yet obtained, and
which he would rejoice to possess. Collecting is, in fact, an exciting
pursuit, and we could sooner forgive a man for wasting his substance
in riotous gardening, when this passion had seized him, than if he
were under a geranium or verbena spell, revolving only amid half-a-
dozen species of plants, and deriving no higher pleasure from his
garden than repeating upon its surface the designs he is already tired
of in carpets, chintzes, and wall-papers. Eor the public promenade,
as for the great garden, where there is room for everything, and
ample means to boot, good bedding is one of the necessities of the
decorative part of horticulture ; but in the small garden, which is
VOL. II. — NO. III. 5
66 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
like an extecsion of the drawing-room, or a sort of outdoor parlour,
something more is wanted than daubs of yellow and red, which,
'* Like the borealis race,
Flit ere you can point their place."
We want entertainment the whole year round, beauty for the eye,
and witli it fragrance, agreeable associations, variety, and something
to engan:e and interest the mental faculty. In place of the scrubby
evergreens tliat are tolerated — because the bedding, like the Dragon
of Wantley, swallows up everything but itself — v.e ought to see in
private gardens a considerable variety of the most beautiful shrubs
and trees, deciduous and evergreen; the first so various in form and
leafage, and many of them so magnificent w^ hen in flower ; the second
warm and rich in the depth of winter, making the place look like
home, so that a glance from the windows neither chills nor repels, as
must be tlie case when a person of any taste looks out upon a dreary
parterre that is known tc be of use only in the height of summer,
•when mere colour is least wanted, and when, in many cases, the
family are away, and see nothing of it. And in the borders in
advance of the trees and shrubs we should see mixtures of all kinds,
spring flowers in abundance, and in all the deliglitful variety in
which they niay be obtained, the gems of the vegetable creation that
appeal to the pleasantest memories, and in their subdued and refined
colourings seem to be almost musical in their speaking prettiness.
And for sumu'er and autumn, and even for winter, the hardy plants
ccmprise myriads of fine subjects, some showy enough even for a
vulgar taste, but many more beautiful in the true sense of the
word, with grace of form and delicate harmonies of tintings, and
characters so individual, that every one deserves to have a history,
and to have that history told to all admirers. And when winter
comes again, the variegated-leaved and berry-bearins: shrubs that are
within the reach of English cultivators would suffice to effect an
apparent change of climate. It is enough for us to be frozen to-
day and roar^ted to-morrow in this wayward, cliangeable, ungenial,
unfriendly clime; we need not make our gardens lugubrious to
increase the horror ; yet this we do, and only at rare intervals do
we meet with examples of what Eugiibh gardens might be in warmth,
cheerfulness, richness, and variety, even in the very depth of such
winters as make havoc of human lives. Our ten years' repetitioris
of such arguments as these may, for all we know, have somewhere
produced an eflect by this time ; but whether there be results or
not, we shall probably continue, as occasions offer, to direct the
attention of our readers to the undeveloped resources of ornamental
gardening in this country, and do our best to point out the several
subjects that are best fitted to make our gardens worthy of the
spirit and the means and intelligence of the English people.
We begun with remarks for collecting, yet we should hope that
very few ot our readers are devoted to the profitless task of indis-
criminate gathering together of the members of any family of plants.
It is not every member ot the vegetable kingdom that -s adapted
for cultivation in gaidens, and amongst the most beautiful and
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 67
useful species and varieties some are better than oj;hers, and the wise
mnn will, if possible, select the best and leave the rest to nature.
As for ugly plants — and there are such — they are generally rele-
gated to the botanists, which is a form of sarcasm founded on the
too often professed admiration of would-be botanists for things
that persons of taste find nothing in to admire. Far better than
collecting is selecting, and in this amusement we are constantly
endeavouring to assist our readers, by directing attention to the best
species and varieties in the several classes of plants that are adanted
for the embellishment of our gardens. Hardy plants would never
perhaps have been at a discount, as they have been for many vears
past, if cultivators of them had taken care to sift out the best and
toss the rest to limbo. No one, for example, amongst the unini-
tiated, would care to grow Michaelmas daisies, after having seen an
ordinary mixture of them in an old-fashioned border, for a con-
siderable proportion of the immense number of species entered in
the books are rubbish, their ragged weedy look is completely matched
by their miserable flowers ; so of many other families, yet the true
collector can pick out a few that perhaps are unparalleled for
beauty, and if amateurs would grow only what is good, they might
serve the cause of art in this direction ; for good herbaceous plants,
and indeed good shrubs, good bedders, recommend themselves when
seen, and bring into good repute the classes they belong to. Those
who grow ugly plants do harm to horticulture, and the very many
ugly things that have been tolerated and that are tolerated in English
gardens, make it appear to the passing crowd that in geraniums,
calceolarias, and verbenas alone are beauty and interest to be Ibund.
S. H.
SUB-TEOPICAL PLANTS FOR THE CHOICE GAEDEN.
BY KAEL PKOSPEE.
AYINGr brought under the notice of the reader selections
of noble habited plants that may be safely and expe-
ditiously raised from seed, I shall now direct attention
to a few others that cannot be so produced, or that it is
not desirable to seek or obtain seeds of.
caladiu:m:.
From this genus we obtain a selection of plants of most distinct
and noble aspect for the English gardens. In warm sheltered
districts in the south of England there can be no doubt that our
exhibition caladiums, those gorgeously-coloured plants that elicit
the astonishment of the spectator unused to beholding the wonders
of the vegetable kingdom — there can be no doubt that these might
be planted out and would thrive well. But let our test for all the
southern parts of England be the results obtained at Battersea
Park, where last summer CalacUum esculentum was largely planted,
and made some of the most remarkable beds ever seen. One bed,
45 feet long by 6 feet wide, was a mass of these noble leaves, some
€8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
of tbem measuring 2h to 3 feet iu length. It is perhaps only as
isolated specimens that they will be planted in private gardens ; I
confess I am not at all anxious to see great beds of them in
small places. The bed selected for any of these plants should consist
of light rich earth, if containing a considerable proportion of turf
all the better. It should also be deep and moist. The <:nd of May,
or even the second week of June, will be early enough to plant, but
this must depend on the weather ; in a forward season they might
be put out in the middle of May. It must be remembered that
they produce an effect at once, so they may well be kept under cover
until all the ordinary bedding is finished, as they will all the time be
increasing in size.
C. escidentum. — The most robust of all ; it produces huge cordate
leaves a yard long, and of a fine sombre green colour. Planted
singly or in small groups, it is a most noble subject. The roots must
be taken up in the autumn and placed in dry sand, and kept dry
and safe from frost till March ; then to be started to grow in a light
rich soil in a moist heat of 70\
C. cuchlorum. — This is a very fine species, with large leaves of a
.-deep green colour. Four or five plants put a yard apart make a
beautiful group. Take up the roots in autumn, keep them in sand
all winter, and start in heat in March.
0. cueullatum. — The grandest and most fast growing of all, but
a trifle more tender than C. esculentam, and therefore not likely to
do so well if the season should not be favourable.
C. violaceum. — A pretty stuall-growing kind, with purplish leaves,
well adapted to make an edging to large beds of caladiums, or to
mix with other plants in flower beds.
HARDY AND XEAELT HAEDY PALMS.
It is not exactly a, new discovery that many palms may be placed
out of doors for the embellishment of the English flower garden, but
attention has only lately been seriously drawn to the subject, and I
venture to believe that my humble pen'has contributed somewhat to
this happy result. It should be known far and wide that one of the
noblest palms in the world, Chammrojjs Fortmici, is quite hardy in
the southern districts of England, and that there is a superb specimen
of it five feet high planted out on a bank in the Eoyal Botanic
Gardens, Regent's Park, and which has braved the winters unpro-
tected for seven years past. Of all the sub-tropical plants adapted
for English gardens, Chama^rops Fortunei, or Fortune's hardy
Chinese Palm, is perhaps the most truly valuable, because it may be
planted out like a Yucca — and what a grand companion for winter
effect to Yucca recurva ! — and remain a permanent ornament and one
of the most dignified forms of vegetation it is possible to imagine.
"With the exception of this species, which may be planted out in a
sheltered spot in any garden south of Nottingham, the palms must
he used as temporary occupants of the parterre, and the safest way
to deal with tliem is to plunge them in their pots. To grow a
'eollection for the purpose does not demand a great outlay, or long
THE FLORAL WORLD AXD GARDEN GUIDE. 6^^'
tried skill. The selection should be confined to such as are nearly
hardy, and of wliich a list is given below. All these plants thrive m
a good loamy soil, containing plenty of fibre and siliceous grit, and
they are gratefid for tlie addition of a small proportion of quite
rotten manure. It is necessary to repot them every year, but
they need not always be put into larger pots ; in many cases the
same pot will do several seasons in succesjdon, but the process of
repotting is intended to provide them with a change of soil. When
this repotting is performed, they should be turned out of their pots
and a good deal of the old soil should be removed from their roots ,-
they should then be placed again in the same pots, or in pots a size
larger. If the old pots are used let them be well scrubbed, or, if
they can be baked for an hour — a thing convenient enough in some
gardens — it will render them quite sweet fur the use of the plants
again. The potting must be done with care, and a few nodules of
charcoal should be placed over the crocks. This is one part of the
treatment about which there is no mystery. Another part is to give
them abundance of water while growing ; that is easily done, but if
it is not done the growth will be poor, and the plants will decline in
beauty. The third and last point is to house them in October in a
light airy house, where there is heat enough to keep out frost, and
there treat them as other greenhouse plants are treated, especially in
respect of giving water, for the colder the weather the less they
must have. During the recent severe weather some plants of
-Latania Boicrhonica and Chamcerojjs humilis have been subjected
to 8' of frost, but are quite unhurt. At the same time, I would
defend the greenhouse palms from frost if possible.
Charnosrojjs Fortunei. — A grand palm, quite hardy in the southern
and western parts of England. It should be planted in a sheltered
spot, to protect its leaves from damage by winds ; and, if possible, on*
a slope, to prevent injury by lodgments of water during winter.
Any good soil will suit it ; the fine plant at Regent's Park is in a
very bad sample of London mould.
Chamcerops liumilis. — This very handsome "fan palm" is in-
valuable for the conservatory and for plant cases. In cultivation it
needs only one care, and that is the most perfect drainage, for if
for any length of time soddeued with water it will die. It is so •
abundant in some parts of xllgeria as to prevent the cultivation of
the land, for the rude ploughs of the Arabs are unable to cut
through this "weed." The Algerian farmers have lately discovered
how to remove it, and that is by flooding the land with water ; so
irrigation, which is needed for the rice and other crops proper to the
climate, will efi:ect a clearance of this weed from the soil.
Chaiiwrops e.vccha, C. Ghieshreighfii, C, sinensis, and C. tomcn-
tosa, are also good palms for the flower garden, and to keep through
winter in a greenhouse.
Latania Bourhonica. — This magnificent palm is so nearly hardy
that it is one of the first that an amateur in love witli such things
should purchase. It is very cheap, and grows sufiiciently fast to
make a specimen in a few years.
Areca Bauerii and A. sapida are two species of " cabbage palm,"
70 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.:
well adapted for the summer garden, and needing a warm (jreenJiouse
in winter.
Brahea dulcis and B. nohiUs are fine palms from Mexico, nearly
hardy.
Ghamcedorca atrovirens^ C. eJegans, and C. Vemcliajfeltiana need
the warm greenhouse, yet are pretty hardy. Give them a rich soil,
say one-fourth, or even one-third well-rotted manure, and abundance
of water all the summer.
Cocos australis and C. campestris are two of the cocoa-nut palms,
extraordinarily beautiful, and easy to keep in a cool house all winter.
Coryplia australis^ a pretty fan palm, and a good companion to
€]iamition to
known facts. We have used soap-suds largely as a liquid manure, especially in the
cultivation of the chrysanthemum, and it not only did not poison, but it apparently
promoted a vigorous growth and an abundant bloom. There may be in some soaps
poisonous ingredients, but, as a rule, the fat and alkali of which they consist are
well adapted to nourish plants.]
05
GARDEN GUIDE FOR MARCH.
Kitchen Garden. — There ie a great scarcity now of green-stuff for the kitchen.
Our lo^ses of -winter greens were imnoense, but for six weeks past we have had
aband>ince of delicate sprouts from old stumps. Whenever sprouts are to be
obfaimd in each warm weather as we have had lately, tliry should be cut as soon
as large enougli to take hold of them — say wiien as large as walnuts ; for if left
under the impression that tliey will grow larger, they will simply rush into flower,
and be useless. Vast quantities of sprouts that would be delicious, if caught at the
right moment, are lost through the haste with wliich they become hard and
stringy when pushing their flower-buds, for every shoot of a brassica has flower-
buds in it at this time of year. The operations of this month are in a great measure
dependent on the weather. The best general advice we can give is to sow and
plant everything as soon as possible. The most important subjects are peas, beans
potatoes, lettuces, and saladings generally, and spinach.
Flower Garden. — A good list of annuals, with remarks upon their uses, will he
found in the number for February, 1866. All kinds of liardy annuals may be sown
now. Roses may still be planted, also gladioli for autumn flowering. It is a o-ood
time to purchase and plant hardy herbaceous plants.
Fruit Garden.T-Pnt a good mulch on the ground amongst raspberry canes and
strawberry plants. On hot, dry soils, a mulch of half-rotten dung will be good to
nourish the roots of bush-apple, pear, and plum-trees. If any pruning not yet
done, finish quickly.
G-reenhowie — This house should be gay now with many kinds of spring flowers.
Give plenty of air in mild weather ; hut while east winds are blowing do not open
a single ventil.tor ; thei-e will be quite enough air get in between the laps, etc., etc.
Look over the stock, and repot all plants that need it. A good time to prune in
and repot all the geraniums that are for summer and autumnal flowering.
* ^* Past issues of the Flokal World contain copious calendars of operations ;
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference,
for these reasons the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year.
TO COERESPOjS^DENTS.
Moss ON Gravel Walks, Hardy Evergreens. — M. C. — One grand preventive
of the growth of moss on gravel walks is perfect drainage. A dry walk is rarely
grown with moss. Occasional sprinklings of quicklime or salt will destroy moss,
and to make the best of these dressings, they should be put on in dry weather.
M. C. says, "I live in Herts, in a low situation, on a gravelly soil. My Lauristi-
nuses, common Laurels, Cedru- Deodara, Roses, etc., etc., are cut off entirely. The
Portugal laurels have stood the frost well, but I have plenty of them, and want
some more ornamental evergreens for the lawn and borders." It is a strange thing
that the Berberis is so mucii neglected in the planting of hardy shrubs. Many of
them will bear any amount of frost, and they like damp situations, where usually
in hard weather the greatest havoc occurs. B. Dancinii is most graceful in habit,
with neat glossy leaves, and abundance of orange yellow flowers in spring. H.
Japonica has huge angular leaves, and presents at all seasons a bold and very
distinct aspect. The follov^nng are fine subjects : — Berberis fascicidaris hyhrida,
B. aquifolium, B. diilcis, Bzixus Balearica (sometimes suffers), B. sempervirens
and its varieties, which are matiy, and all good ; B. rotund/folia, Ilex aqui/olium
Shepherdi, I. a. laurifolium, and the variegated-leaved liollies, of which there are
enough distinct and beautiful to furnish the Lirgest public promenade in Englandwitli-
out creating monotony, and no frost will hurt them. The two varieties of J. aquifolium
just named are essential because of their bold characters. Hi/perictcm calycinum
makes pretty clumps under trees, flowering abundantly in July ; Phillyrea ilicifolia,
Quercu.'0. IT. 8
POLTSTicnnr axgflaee yae. gsaxdiceps.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 115
for them is one consisting of equal parts loam, peat, leaf-mould, and
silver sand, the pots to be well drained, the plants kept shaded from
sunshine, and moderately watered. Though partial to a moist
atmosphere, this fern is not thirsty ; indeed, we have known the
pretty vdiViQij 2?rolifenim, which is largely grown in the nurseries
about London to furnish fronds for bouquets, to be as dry as dust
for weeks together, and yet not betray the slightest distress.
The best of the varieties (about seventy in number) are the
following: —
BrachiatuYii. — Fronds densely leafy, and very scaly, the pinnules
much overlapping, and cut into many small-toothed divisions ; height
twelve to twenty inches.
CoRcimium. — Spreading, rich, and plumy, very bright shining
green, the pinnae narrow and tapering, pinnules distinctly stalked
and spiny toothed, extremely graceful and bright ; height thirty to
forty inches.
Gristatum. — The same as the species, except that every frond
terminates in a crispy crest or tassel : height twenty to forty inches.
Gracile. — Fronds broad, thin- textured, tapering, and spreading,
the pinnules distant, narrow, and toothed. A light and elegant
variety ; height twenty to forty inches.
Grcmdiceps. — Fronds deep green, the pinnae more or less par-
tially or wholly divided into pinnules, or lobes, which are spiny,
each pinna ending in a spreading crest, and the upper part of the
frond branching into numerous divisions, each of which is terminated
by a crest ; height twelve to twenty-four inches.
Grandidens. — Thick-textured, dark green fronds, irregularly
divided, the secondary divisions deep cut into sharp conspicuous
teeth. A handsome variety, adapted for pots and cases ; height
twelve to twenty inches.
Imhricatum. — Spreading, twice-divided fronds, the colour a fine
rich deep green, the pinnules overlap, which gives it a ricli appear-,
ance. A very fine exotic-looking variety, adapted for the case ; height
twelve to twenty inches.
Latipes. — Fronds on long stipes, which are very scaly, very broad,
deep green, pinnae rather distant, and almost wedge-shaped, pinnules
much toothed, distinctly lobed at the base, and the pinnule next
adjacent to the rachis very much lengthened. A bold, handsome, yet
graceful variety for the rockery or for pots ; height thirty to fifty
inches.
Plumosum. — Very spreading wide fronds, pinnae more than an
inch wide at the base, suddenly tapering at the point, pinnules
crowded, deeply cut into narrow lobes. A rare variety, well adapted
for the open air, pots, or cases ; height twenty to forty inches.
Proliferum. — Very spreading broad fronds, of a deep green colour,
the younger ones having a somewhat hoary appearance, the pinnules
are crowded, slender, and conspicuously stalked ; the appearance of
this fine f^rn is greatly improved by the crowded state of the fronds,
owing to the plentiful production at their base of bulbil plants ;
these may be taken off* at any time, and if planted in sandy peat, will
root immediately, and soon begin to produce others like themselves.
1J6 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
This is undoubtedly the best variety, and essential in even the
smallest collection of ferns, and it may be grown ei^ually well on a
shady rockery, in a greenhouse, or a fern-case ; height eighteen to
thirty inches ; but in this respect variable, some specimens never
making fronds more than twelve inches long.
JProlifcrum Wollastoni. — Less profusely bulbil-beariug than tbe
last, and differing from it in having more distant divisions and the
exceedingly finely-divided condition of the lower parts of the fronds,
which renders it a most elegant object ; height thirty to fifty inches.
Parvissimum. — This is a diminutive fern, bearing at first sight some
resemblance to proliferum, but soon found to be quite distinct. The
fronds are lance-shaped, the pinna? broad and overlapping like the
tiles of a house, the pinnules are not deeply cut, and are all elegantly
rounded on their anterior edges, and finely toothed. It is one of
tne prettiest miniature ferns in cultivation. This variety has been
received from Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., Exeter ; all the
foregoing have been obtained from Mr. Sim, of Foot's Crav, Kent.
S H.
CULTIVATION OF ASTEES FOR EXHIBITION AND
DECOEATION.
BY WILLIAM HILLS.
N" the April number of the Floral "Woeli), 1S66 (page
116), I presented the reader M'ith a note on stocks and
asters, to which I will now refer them, as in it will be
found some useful information on the varieties that are
most likely to give satisfaction. I shall now speak only
of the cultivation.
To begin at the beginning, it is very important to get good seed ;
and in order to do this, it is necessary to pay a good price, and to
have it from a respectable house, which will be a guarantee for the
genuineness of the article purchased. Much, however, of the want
of success with asters arises from sowing too early, and neglecting
to give them sufficiently generous treatment, so that the seed often
gets blamed when it is the management which is at fault. Asters
should not be sown before the latter end of Apiil or the beginning
of May ; nothing whatever can be gained by sowing earlier, but
much is likely to be lost, for if they receive a check during growth
from a few days' extra cold weather, it renders them very liable to
the attacks of green-fly, or any other kind of vermin ; and after a
sudden severe check of this kind, it is almost impossible ever to get
them up to their standard of beauty. Therefore, remember first of
all, that moist warm weather is most favourable to this tribe of
plants. Many among our amateur friends look at the pictures of
the beautiful varieties lately brought out, and then heave a halt-
sigh, as much as to say, " Ah, that is all very well in a nursery or in
a picture, but it is quite out of the question for me to produce such
flowers as those." Now, my dear friends, this is not by any means
the case, and if you will only give a moderate amount of care and
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 117
attention, you will have flowers this year wliich will be both a credit
and a pleasure to you, and equal to any picture of asters ever
painted.
They should be sown on a spent hot-bed, or in pans or pots placed
in a close pit or frame ; the plants will make their appearance
in a few days, w^hen you must give tliem plenty of air. AYlien
they are about an inch high, spread some fine soil over the surface
of a slight hot-bed, into which transplant your seedlings at a little
distance apart, and let them remain there till they are three or
four inches high. Xow that asters are so perfect in shape and
quilling, and of every variety of colour, from white to a deep
crimson and purple, a well-arranged set of them would have a fine
appearance on a ribbon border or in a geometric garden, and would
remain gay from the 1st of August until cut down by frost. If,
therefore, you desire to grow them either in ribbons or masses,
prepare the soil generously with old dung : that which suits them
exactly is a mixture of lio;ht sandy loam and rotten dung. AVhen
the ground is in good order, wait for a favourable opportunity,
and after some nice showery weather, transplant them into the
border, and water them for a few days ; should the weather prove
very hot and dry, the watering must be continued, for if they get
the least check through drought, the insects (which seem as though
they were always waiting in ambush) will pounce upon them and
claim them as their own. Should this misfortune occur, it will be
advisable either to syringe or sprinkle with tobacco-water, taking care
that some of it goes into the centre of each plant, when the enemy
will be effectually dislodged.
Supposing that it is desired to grow them for exhibition, the
plants should be finally planted out for blooming in well-manured
soil, in rows ten inches from each other. Keep them well watered
during dry weather, and quite free from weeds, stirring the ground
between the plants occasionally until about the first week in
August, when it will require a good top-dressing of rotten dung
from an old hot-bed, and then a good soaking of water if the
ground appears at all dry. As soon as you have given them the top-
dressing, procure some small stakes and tie them up ; when the
buds are sufficiently developed for you to see which will make the
best flow^ers, thin them out, leaving only three or four to each plant.
The flowers to be exhibited must be protected from the wet and from
injury by the wind.
Among the greatest enemies of the aster may be reckoned
the slugs, and in places infested by these pests it is a somewhat
difficult matter to protect them. Lime is useful in dry weather,
but its efficacy is destroyed by a shower, and so a more desirable
way is to trap them ; this may be done by placing heaps of two
or three fresh cabbage-leaves on either side of them, which will
generally attract the rascals ; but perhaps the most effectual way is
to take out a lantern at night and search the plants individually,
when, with a little perseverance, they may be soon got rid of by this
style of hand-picking.
118
THINNING THE CEOP 01^ FEUITS IN THE OECHAED
HOUSE.
BY HENUT HOWLETT.
|ATUEE provides means for tbinniug the crop ou wild
fruits in seasons of unusual plenty, and probably if the
natural processes of thinning were aided by artificial
thinning, many of our wild fruits would improve, irre-
spective of the more definite mode of improving by
hybridization. But it is quite certain, that to allow trees to bear
beyond a certain limit, tends to throw them back in history, and
cause them to revert back some degrees towards the natural types
from which they sprung. 'We do not mean to say that a Victoria
plum will become a sloe or a buliace by neglect ; but if the tree be
weakened by a succession of very heavy crops, it will at least become
comparatively unfruitful, and what fruits do appear will be small and
flavourless compared with those from a tree in full vigour. As a
general principle, then, the appearance of a large crop should be the
signal for thinning, and our advice to the possessors of fruit
crops, whether under glass or in the open air, is, Thin the fruit.
Eemove a few at once from every part of the tree, so as to leave
the residue pretty evenly dit^tributed. After the lapse of a few
days, thin again, and so on till there are no more left than the tree
can fairly bring to perfection, consistent with its age, and size, and
vigour.
But the matter does not end here. Have you not observed that
the same variety of fruit varies in flavour considerably ? Tou taste
a Eoyal George peach in one garden, and it is delicious ; in another
garden you taste a fruit of the same variety, and it is execrable.
Tou solve the riddle of the diflerence, perhaps, by referring it to influ-
ences of soil, climate, or, as the gardener will perhaps suggest, " We
had a sharp east wind when the fruits were stoning." Now, generally
the flavour of fruits depends on early and judicious thinning. Tou can
only get so much out of a tree. If you have quantity, you must
lose quality ; and if high flavour is desired, we must give the same
rule as before to obtain it, and say again, Thin the fruit ; and begin
the thinning before the strength of the tree has been severely taxed
in the first swelling of the crop.
Growers of forced fruits get such advice as this frequently in
our calendarial notices, but we fear that growers of fruit in orchard
houses and the open quarters do not take the advice to themselves
as they should, for in almost every garden of the country the trees
and bushes have on them larger crops of fruit than they can bring to
perfection ; and to leave the trees to fight it out in their own way
will result in flavourless production, and the weakening of the con-
stitution of every tree so taied beyond its strength. Short hints
are sometimes more efi'ectual than elaborate essays ; therefore we
close here with a repetition of the words. Thin the fruit before the
trees are wealcened.
119
NEWS or THE MONTH.
ExuiBiTioxs OF SvRixo Flom-ers. — There have been held in Loudon during
the past month three exhibitions c f spring flowers : namely, at the gardens of the
Royal Horticultural Soci* ty, March 19 ; in the gardens of the Royal Botanic Society,
March 23 ; and a continuous show by Messrs. Cutbush and Son, of Highgate, at
the Crystal Palace. In the former two displays, Mr. "William Paul, of Cheshunt,
Avas the largest contributor, and in the quality of his flowers distanced all competi-
tors. Some beautiful examples have been shown by Mr. Kirtland, of Albion
Nursery, Stoke Xewington, and Mr. Cutbush, of Barnet. Early tulips have been
presented by Mr. W. Paul in the utmost profusion, and of remarkably fine quality,
with collections of Xarci-sus, forced Roses, and Lilies of the Valley. Peculiarly
interesting have been the fine displays of Cyclamen Persicum, in which Messrs.
E. G. Henderson have, as usual, presented large and beautiful collections; but this
time Mr. Wiggins, gardener to W. Beck, Esq., of Isleworth, presented a dozen
Cychimens that for style and finish were not only better than any others, but
afforded a real surprise to experienced growers cf this charming flower. The last-
named exhibitor has taken the lead, too, this season in Chinese Primulas, showing
handsome plants covered with flowers of immense size, some pure white, others deep
rosy crimson. There have been none to equal them, and of course they have taken
the highest honour.s. Mr. Wiggins's plants were grown from seed of "Williams's
strain," which is well-known to be one of the best. Amongst things curious or par-
ticularly interesting, we may note the following :— From Mr. Cutbush, of Barnet,
Prunus Sinensis albaflorepleno, that is the double white flowering Chinese plum, as
beautiful as the double flowering clierry, and mucli better adapted to form a neat
conservatory tree. From Mr. Ciuikshauk, gardener to J. Lloyd, Esq., of Watford,
Verbena Beauty of Langlet/hury, a beautiful flower, vrhite witii lilac stripes. From
Mr. Paul, Narcissus Queen of the Yelloics, the most beautiful in a collection of
about tliirty sets. From the same, Rose (H.P.) Coeur de Leon, a fine stout glo-
bular flower, the colour rich purplish crimson. From Mr. Watson, of St. Albans,
Tricolor Geranium, Mrs-. Dix, a compact dwarf-growing kind, waih flat round leaves,
edged with gold yellow, the zone ohve and bronze overlaid with deep red, remarkably
handsome. From Messrs. E. Gr. Henderson and Son, Pyrethrum Golden Feather,
a yellow-leaved bedding plant, which promises to be highly efl'ective in the parterre.
From the same. Tricolor Geranium Emma Cheers, which has a lemon-coloured
margin, and a Kne zone shading from chestnut to bright vermilion red. Amongst
many new orchids shown, were two of great interest from Mr. W. Bull, of Chelsea.
The old Phaji's grandifoltus was shown with superbly variegated leaves. There was
also a pretty group of the diminutive and channingiy elegant Odonto;jlossiim Alex-
andres, which flowers most freely in small pots, the flowers varying from pure white
to white with brown spots. Every lover of orchids should look after this gem ; they
need not be told that at present it is costly. The exhibition of the Royal Caledonian
Society took place at Edinburgh on th^ 20th, on which occasion the leading
exhibitors of hyacinths were Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing : and in the amateur
classes Mr. Cowe, gardener to H. W. Hope, Esq., Luff"ness, made the best exhibition,
Avhich indeed was remarkable for excellence. The Liverpool Spring Show was held
on the 13th, and was quite a brilliant aftair. Tne principal exhibitors of hyacinths
here were Mr. Davies, of Liverpool, and Messrs. Cutbush and Son, of Higligate.
Each of these exhibitions has had to contend with dreadful weather, yet the
attendances have been good, proving that Flower Shows retain their popularity, and
if known to be good are pretty sure to be supported. The following are selections of
the most beautiful varieties in the several classes : —
St/acinths.— Lord Wellington, Soifaterre, Grand Lilas, Grandeur _a Meryeille,
Charles Dicken.s, Von Schiller, Auricula Oog, very dark violet pips, with radiating
white or pale eye of great substance ; Gigantea, Koh-i-Noor, General Havelock,
Macaulay, Queen of the Netherlands, Prince Albert, Lord Palmerston, Mont Blanc,
Noble par Merite, Baron von Tuyll, Josephine, a very rich dark vermilion, and pips
of fine substance; De CandoUe, very pale blue, good; Snowball, one of the best of
the whites; Milton, fine deep ruby red; Pieneman, a large pip of great substance,
but loose in the spike; Lamplighter, blackish blue, with pale eye; Howard, Mimosa,
Seraphine, Koh-i-Noor, Alba superbis^ima, one of the best wliites ; Mont Blanc,
Lina, beautiful in finish and colour ; Miss Nightingale, Victoria Regina, Leonidas,
120 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Le Prophete, Duke of Wellington, Emmeline, Cava ignac, King of the Blues, Blondin,
Fernck Khan, Grand Yainquenr, Haydn, Sultan's Favourite, Mis. James Cutbush,
Orondates, Ar^us, Ida, one of tlie best yellows; Princess Htilena.
Tulips. — Proseipine, violet-shaded rose ; Keizer Kroon, deep red, edged with
yellosv ; Couleur Cardinal, deep scarlet shaded with violet, small but effective ;
Fablola, rosy purple and white ; ^Vhite Pottebakkcr, Van der Neer, violet-shaded,
rose, Tourncsol, Vermilion Biillant, Globe de Piigaud, Duke of York, red edged -with
creamy white ; Queen, white, feathered with crimson ; Biitle, crimson and white :
Thomas More, beautiful deep orange buff; Arcliduc d'Autrichc, superb in form and
colour J Leonarda da Vinci, a fine double red; Duchess of Parma, Stella, Canarv
Bird.
Narcissi. — Bazelman Major, Lord Canning, white, with a yellow cup ; Cleo-
patra, with an orange cup ; Jocrisse, Parfaite, and Regulus ; Grand Monarque.
Gloriosa, the latter a fine white, with a deep yellow cup ; Queen of Yellows, small,
in great bunches, clear yellow.
Crocuses. — Sir Walter Scott, a large variety, lilac striped with white ; Cloth of
Silver; Mammoth, large-flowered white ; Princess of Wales, a fine pure white ;
Princess Alexandra, white, pencilled with purple ; Prince of Wales, bluish violet ;
David Eizzio, Sir John Franklin, purple ; Golden Yellow, Albion, Victoria.
GROUND VINERIES.
(Read by Mr. Bkogme, of the Inner Temple Gardens, at a meeting of the Central
Horticultural Society, February 26.)
2 OW that the gardening world is every day becoming acquainted with the
great utility of these structures, I have thought a few remarks, based
upon practice Avith Wells's ground vineries, might by many be appre-
ciated. The lady and gentleman amateur, the scientific and practical
gardener, have already derived much advantage and pleasure from their
use, and at this moment in many gardens where horticulture is carried out upon just
principles, these sti*uctures are used and recommended. Upon their first appearance
in gardens thej- were exclusively employed for grape-growing, and were carefully
stowed away during the many months in which the vine is dormant ; now they are
kept in active operation during the whole year. The lady amateixr finds that in
them she can manage a crop of grapes, then bring on a few plants for late autumn
and Christmas flowering, and afterwards occupy them with a few miscellaneous
floriculture pets, bedding, and other plants, whilst by others they are used for the
protection of salading, etc. In the present month many ground vineries are devoted
to forcing rhubarb, and I have seen a hot-bed made for them and covered an inch
thick with ashes, into which are plunged pots of Dutch bulbs, hyacinths, tulips, etc.;
and others, again, are used in a similar manner for the propagation of bedding stuff,
and raising seeds of tender plants.
The scientific and practical gardener can apply these miniature houses to a thou-
sand different uses. But a few days ago I saw a fourteen-feet length filled with
hyacinths and tulips, which are intended for our great spring bulb shows, and
nothing could exceed the luxuriance and vigour they possessed. 1 have likewise
seen ground vineries applied to the growth of the Neapolitan violet, and beautifully-
coloured blossoms were being gathered when not a vestige of flower was discernible
in the old-fashioned, dark, dismal box-frame, although both v/ere placed near each
other, and were subjected to the same and equal management. The plan of arrang-
ing the ground vinery for this purpose was extremely simple. In the month of
October last, when all the fruit had been cut fi'om the vines, a bed of the same area
as the vinery was marked out, round which common bricks were laid two deep ; the
bed thus formed was filled witli coal ashes, and the violets, which had previously-
been potted in 32-sized pots, were plunged in it. The plants were thus exposed to
intense light — an agent most essential, as all gardeneis are aware, to the well-being
of this plant. The arrangement for giving air is likewise so perfect in these struc-
tures, that the violets can be exposed wholly in propitious weather ; and should it be
THE FLOEAL WOELD AND G^AEDEN GUIDE. 121
mild with moisture falling, the lids or sides can be raised nearly horizontally, thus
exposing tlie plants to uir, whilst affording protection from wet. During the incle-
ment weatlier we had tin's winter the viner^' was covered witli litter, and thatched
hurdles placed together over the whole in the shape of a span roof. This protection
bade detiance to cold 9" belov/ zero.
During the past season I have seen some magnificent crops of grapes under these
ground vineries. Tlie bunclics were of a good size, the berries well swelled and
above the average i^ize, witli the colouring as perfect as in any that have been cut
from more spacious houses, and the flavour was exquisite.
I find many growers, elated with the success of these vineries, intend applj'ing
them to the growing of stone fruits, such as peaches and nectarines, the trees being
planted out and treated precisely the same as the vines. The slates will be laid
down and perforated at regular distances, so as to admit pegs for the purpose of
pegging down and laying out the branches. The roots being free to act on the out-
side, as in the case of vines, no watering is necessar}', as when these fruits are grown
in pots upon the orchard-house principle ; and the moisture evaporated from the
slates, with which the wood and foliage are in contact, prevents red spider, thrips,
and other insects from multiplying.
I find the best method of cultivating fruits under AVells's ground vineries is as
follows : — At one end of the vinery a hole tAvo feet square, and of about the same
depth, is dug out and filled with a compost of good loam, rotten dung, and a little
road sand ; these should be well incorporated together, previously tlirowing in about
one and a half peck of bones, merely bruised, to afford drainage to the mass, also to
feed the vines during hot weather, or when the heat is so great as to rob the plant
of its natural moisture. The bones will likewise absorb the fluids passing down to
them more readily by being bruised. All being thus prepared, the vine is turned
oat about the middle of March, providing the weather is open and mild, the cane
being introduced and pegged down. Air should be admitted at ten o'clock a.m., by
raising slightly the lights ; this, with the additional air from the bottom of the
frames, will serve to check the vines from making too quick and premature a
growth before the season is sufficiently advanced to assist the formation of the
young parts. The cases should be closed again about two p.m., if possible securing
a little atmospheric warmth, and the vines should at this period be slightly syringed;
the moisture will aid the expansion of the bark and the bursting of the young buds
and leaves. This treatment should be continued until the flowers are expanded,
when syringing must be entirely suspended, and air admitted upon every oppor-
tunity. As soon as the flowers are set, I find moisture applied in tlie form of vapour
highly beneficial ; this can be obtained hy pouiing tepid water upon the slates.
Atmospheric warmth is secured throughout the day, and causes the moisture to
evaporate, thus charging the internal air with an agent highly beneficial. _ As
soon as the grapes have attained the size of sweet peas, the bunches should be
thinned, taking out all ill-shaped and deformed berries, also all those which are in
immediate contact with others, taking care not to remove all the interior berries, or
the bunches will be loose and ill-shapen. At this period the structure should be kept
close, and as much warmth secured as possible, as the critical time of stoning will
have arrived, and a check would prove highly injurious. As soon as colouring com-
mences, as much air should be admitted as is consistent with safet}' from chilling,
and the vinery should be closed sufficiently early to secure, as before stated, as much
natural warmth as possible. If this course be pursued, I feel confident every suc-
cess will attend the operator, and will well repay him for the pains he may bestow ;
the weight and quality of the fruit will equal, if not exceed, that which is grown in
extensive vine-honses.
I have this winter seen a very happy adaptation of the ground vinery. One of
the fourteen-feet vineries was selected, a site facing south was arranged, a pit dug
three feet deep, and the sides bricked with four and a half inch work two feet above
the ground level ; upon the brickwork was laid a wooden plate, and to this the
vinery was fixed, being screwed down at the four corners of each division. The pit
was then filled with cocoa-nut fibre, and such plants as fuchsias, pelargoniums, and
bulbs were placed in it. These grew with great luxuriance, and, as in other
cases where they were all covered with litter and the thatched hurdles, resisted
the intense frosts we experienced in January. The same vinery pit is at this moment
filled with fermenting material, and rhubarb, sea-kale, and salading are being cut,
while there aro cucumbers climbing along the roof and looking as luxuriant as upon
122 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
ridges in sumiupr. Dutch bulbs are also being brought out weekly for the drawing-
room. This plan is merely au enlarged idea of wbat was before exemplified, and
serves to prove how valuable ground vineries are to the horticulturist.
THE CINERARIA.
BY ME. CHAELES TUENEE, OF THE EOTAL NUESEEIES, SLOUGH.
^HP^N we consider its diversity of colour, its adaptation alike for the con-
servatory, the drawing-room, or the bouquet, its bright and cheerful
appeurcuce at a time when there is a dearth of other flowers, and, in
many cases, its fragrance, Avhich reminds us of the sweet scent of the
hawtliorn, we can hardly be wrong in affirming tliat we do not possess
a more useful plant than that of which we now propose to speak biiefly — the
Cineraria.
Comparing the Cineraria of our day with its ancestors, we are struck by the
great progress which has been acliieved by the florist. A few years ago and the
petals of these flowers were few and far between as the sails of a windmill, but now
we have a symmetrical form and compact growth, in combination with the most
varied and effective colours. Only of lute admitted to our greater exhibitions, it is
now acknowledged by all to form one of their most interesting and important
adjuncts. Fur the ball-room or the banquet, few decorative plants are so appropriate
— the crimson and rose-edged varieties, in particular, bemg most brilliant and
striking by artificial light.
Such being the charms and capabilities of the Cineraria, a few hints as to its
management may prove useful.
If the stock is inferior, as it must be where it has been merely continued by re-
production, or by seedlings, which vtry speedily degenerate without skilful hybrid-
izing and careful stltctions, it will be best to make a fresh start by procuring, before
the winter sets in, a few plants of recent introduction and of distinct colouring
from some reliable source. These should be j^rown on vigorously through the
winter months, and will then make au abundant and, if kept in a cool situation, a
lengthened display in the spring.
The mo.-t suitable soil is a mixture of turfy loam with rotten manure, leaf-
mould, and river, or silver sand. A good drainage will lessen the danger of
mildew ; but, if this appears, apply sulphur immediately, and persevere till you have
mastered it.
Keep the plants as near the glass as possible, and give them air at every favour-
able opportunity.
When they have flowered and cease to be ornamental, Ihey may be removed, if
the weather is not too severe, out of doois, and placed at the foot of a north wall or
hedge. In a short time they will be ready for cutting down, when they should be
lightly surfaced with soil. As soon as tlie suckers break up, they may be taken oflF,
inserted round the edges of pots or teed pans, and placed in a cool pit or frame.
Sprinkle them occasionally until they are thoroughly established ; harden gradually
by more frequent admission of air, and re-pot in accordance with the regular
development of the plant. — Gardener's Annual.
American Mode of Gkowing Blackbeekies.— The canes are planted in rows
3ft. apart, and 3tt. apart in the rows. Over each row is stretched a stout wire at the
lieightof about four feet, with suikes at proper intervals to suppoit it at this height.
As the vines grow they are tied to the wire, and bent dov;n along the wire all in the
same direction — that* is, all towaros the south, all towards the north, or in such
direction as may be most convenient. Tlie berries are borne on the wood of the pre-
vious year's growth. In the spring of each year, the bearing wood of the year
before is cut out and removed, and the new shoots are tied to the wire, the lateral
shoots of the new wood being at the same time cut back within a foot of the main
stalk. TiiUs the whole labour of trimming and training the viues is performed at
one operation. It is better to manure in the autumu, and this all-important matter
should be attended to every year.
123;
NEW PLANTS.
CYl'ELLA CT-liULEA,
YPELLA Ca-ERULEA, Blae-Jloivertd Ci/pella {Bot. Mag. t. 5612).—
Iridse. A superb stove irid, native of the Brazils, long known in oiir
gardens, and on account of its fine flowers and bold sword -like foliage,
deserving a permanent place
in our gardens. The leaves
aretlireeto six feet long, the flowers vary
in size, some of thtm being four inches
in diameter, the blade blue, claw yellow-
ish, with transverse brown bands.
Helianthemum ocvmoides, Basil-
like Bock Rose {Bot. Mag. t. 5621).—
Cistineae. A beautiful hardy rock or sun
rose, native of Spain and Portugal, where
it inhabits dry, rocky hills. "The beau-
tiful genus to which this belongs," says
Dr. J. D. Hooker," was once a favourite
in cultivation, but has of late given way
before the rage for " bedding-oiit plants,"
which now monopolize the once varied
borders of English gardens. No less than
seventy species of Heliardhsmum, besides
varieties, are figured in Sweet's valuable
work on the cultivated plants of the order,
published in 1830, and of these a great
number are nov/ no longer to be found in
England. It is to be hoped that the time
will yet come when the taste for really beau-
tiful and interesting plants will reign again,
and replace the present passion for a blaze of gaudy odours along our garden walks !
Grias caulifloka, Anchorg Bear
{Bot. Mag. t. 5622).— Myrtacea3. This is a
plant of considerable interest in a horticul-
tural, and perhaps also in an economic,
point of view. In the first place, it is one
of the most striking and easily managed ot
all those stately," palm-like, tropical, dico-
tyledonous trees that are so greatly ad-
mired, and are essential for the decoration
of every stove ; and in the next place, as
the Anchovy Pear, it has long been, accord-
ing to some authorities, in esteem as a West
Indian fruit. The latter is a large, brown,
fleshy drupe, like that of the mammel-
apple, which was, according to Sloanc,
pickled and eaten by the Spaniards in lieu
of mangoes, and Avas sent as a great rarity
to Spain. Browne, in his " Natural His-
tory of Jamaica," says nothing of the value
of the fruit, but M'Fi.yden, who represents
tiie English taste, says, *'I cannot learn
that the fruit is ever collected fur use, or
brought to the market." Grias caulijiora
is a tree twenty to fifty feet high. It is
found throughout the Spanish main, grow-
ing in clumps or thickets, and its flowers
are deliciously sweet-scented. The leaves
ar3 crowded at the ends of the branches,
three to four feet long, ten inches broad,
the flowers are on short, stout, branching peduncles, produced on the trunk far
below the leaves. Tliey are two inches broad, pale yellow, veiy fragrant.
GEIAS CAULIVLOltA.
a, the complete plant ; b, portion of the
btem, showing how the flowers are pro-
duced.
124
THE FLOEAL WORLD AKD GARDEN aUIDE.
Plekoma sarmentosa, Twiggy Meroma {JBot. Mag. t. 5629). — Melasto-
raacese. — A beautiful plant, discovered by Humboldt and Bonpland in the cool val-
leys of Peru, and since collected by Dr. Jameson at the same spot, altitude 8000
faet. It is a small, rather slender, subscandent undershrub, with ovate, entire
leaves; flowers two to two and a-half inches in diameter, deep violet, and very
iiandsome, well adapted for greenhouse cultivation.
Sarcamhus erinaceus, Hairy-stemmed Sarcanthtis {Bot. Mag. t. 5630). —
Orchidere, This has been described under the names of Aerides rubrum and
Aerides dasypogon, but the name under
which it is now presented is that by which
it is known at Kew, and is most appro-
priate on account of the peculiarly shaggy
or hedgehog-like appearance of the flower
stems. It is a rare plant and a slow
grower. It flowers in the India-house
during the summer months, the flowers are
Avhite, touched with pale yellow, the lip
rosy.
SlPnOCAMPYI.U.sIIuMBOLDTIANUS,SMm-
boldf's Siphocampylus {Bot. Mag. t.
5631). — Lobeliacere. A showy species of
this tine genus. It is a small bush, three
feet high, branching from the base. The
leaves are ovate, toothed, dai^ green, the
flowers are drooping, two inches long,
bright scarlet. A fine plant for the warm
greenhouse. The Pioyal Gardens are in-
debted to Mr. Bull for this plant.
Oncidium serkatlm, Serrated Onci-
diinn {Bot. Mag. t. 5632).— Orchidea\
A i-emarkable oncid, fantastic in growth
and colouring. The panicle is lax, many
flowered, the sepals and petals ai'e of a
brown, chocolate colour, tipped and margined with yellow, the lip has a bright
yellow crest. It i.s a native of Peru, and must be regarded as a moderately "cool"
orchid.
Syxadexium Gramh, Captain Graufs 3IiUhm7i{Bot. Mag. t. 5633).— Euphor-
biacese. Discovered by Captain Grant during his explorations of the sources of
the Nile. It is a robust green bush of striking character. The leaves are very
succulent, the involucre is a red purple cushion, the stamens have purple
anthers.
Peperomia arifolta var. argtkeia, Arum-leaved Beperomia ; silver-striped
variety {Bot. 3Iag. t. 5634). — This is the true H. arifolia. It has no stem, the
leaves are alternate and peltate, and beautifully marbled. Its exquisite beauty ren-
ders it well adapted for the permanent borders of a tropical house.
LiLiuM uiEMATOCHROUM (HTBRiDrM), Blood-redjiowered Lily {Vlllust. Kori.
t. 503), — Liliacege. This is a remarkable hybrid lily from Japan. It is of stately
habit, with immense flowers of a sombre chocolate colour, deepening occasionally
to black, or brightening to blood red.
Gladiolus, Garden Varietie.s {Vllluat. Sort. t. oOi).—Impe'ratHce Eugenie.
Outer segments barred with clear carmine, inner segments mauve with carmine
stripes, exquisitely beautiful. Eeine Victoria, extra large, outer segments white,
with faint bars of rose, inner segments richly blotched carmine. John Waterer,
small, and apparently partaking of the habit of the Eamosus section, colour vivid
vermilion, with mauve stripes in the throat.
Rhododkndrom margixato punctatum {L'lllust. Sort. t. 505). A charming
hybrid, partaking apparently of the constitution of the Sikkim race. The flowers
are creamy white, with an abundance of dark red spots on the whole surface of the
upper petals, and on the margins of the lower petals. In the conservatory and
cool greenhouse this will be a most valuable decorative plant.
Larix K^mpfeui {L'lllust. Hort. t. 506).— This, the most beautiful of the Larch
tribe, is honoured with a poor portrait, but amends for that is made in the admirable
analytical figures by Mr. Fitch.
HELIAXTHEiII.ii; OCYilOIUES.
125
ie£R-POST FOR pypXHr^SERS
B¥ ?mm, SEEDS, ETC.
A SELECTION OF FIFTY DAHLIAS.
Light. — Miss Henshaw, Lady Popliam, Miss
Pressley, Qaeen of Summer, Her Majesty, Char-
lotte Dcrling, White Perfection, Lady of the
Lake.
Yellow and 0/'a??^e. — Chairman, Hugh
Miller, Charles Turner, Willie Austin, Golden
Admiration, Bullion, Leah.
Crimson and Red. — Madge Wildfire, Lord
Palmerston, Triomphe de Pecq, Scarlet Gem, ]Marquis of
Winchester.
Lilac. — Baron Taunton, Juno, Marr[uis of Bowraout, Criterion, Lilac
Queen.
Purple and Maroon. — Empress of India, Duke of Wellington, Lord Derby,
Midnight, Earl of Pembroke, Erebus, Coronet, George Rawlings, James Back-
house.
Striped and Spotted.— Zehr^i, Countess of Shelbourne, Mrs. H. Holborn,
Charles Perry, Garibaldi, Harlequin, Startler.
Tipped. — ^tafl'^iTcT s, Gem, Duchess of Kent, Lady Paxton, Magician, Norah
Creina, Pigeon, Fanny Sturt, Annie, Pluto.
A selection of about 200 varieties of Dahlias will be found in the *' Garden
Oracle" for 1867.
GARDEA^ GUIDE FOR APRIL.
Kitchen Garden. — The weather has been so bad for some time pasf, that in very
few places has the garden work been carried on as could be wished. It is very
important to get all seeds sown as soon as possible ; but it is no use to push the
work fast if the ground is wet and will not work kindly. The moment the ground
is dry enough to allow of it, put on all available force, and get in seeds, potatoes,
and whatever else should now be growing. It is very importatit to be early in sow-
ing winter greens, as they never do well unless they have a long season ; this is
especially the case with Scotch kale and Brussels spi-outs. Peas and beans that are
up must have attention ; draw the earth to them, and dust with lime or wood ashes.
If every part of the kitchen garden were dusted with lime at this time of year it
would be immensely beneficial, as the vermin are active, and vegetation is in a con-
dition to suffer more from their attacks than in the height of summer. It should
be remembered, too, that lime is a fertilizer, so when it has killed the vermin, it
will remain to benefit the plants. We liave completely cleaned neglected plots of
ground that were foul with vermin by very light dustings of fresh lime about eveiy
three weeks, from the end of March to the end of July, and. the land has been im-
proved at the same time. We have already given lists of what we consider the best
varieties of vegetables to grow this season ; but we wish to direct attention espe-
cially to Stuart and Mein's (of Kelso, X.B.), Dalmeny Sprouts, Albert Sprouts, and
Fearnought Cabbage, as amongst the mcst hardy and most useful of all winter
greens.
Flower Gardct. — Xow is an admirable time to purchase and plant all kinds of
hardy herbaceous plants. Nine-tenths (and more) of all that :ire worth growing
will do well in mellow loam that has been dLcply dug and moderately manured. As
a rule, open sunny spots are best for them ; but many good things will grow in the
shade. All flower-beds not yet touched since last year should be dug, and a little
manure put in, and left 1-ather rough, to be ready for the bedding. Never rake
flower-beds very fine ; a certain roughness of surfiice is essential to the well doing
of whatever is planted in them.
126 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Fruit Garden.— There should be but little to do here now except to keep down
•weeds and tliin the crops of trees that are producing; largely.
Greenhouse. Air must be piven freely ; but it is well to be cautious when the
wind is in the east, as too little air at such times is saf r than too much. Quickly
shift and repot all plants requiring it, as our sea«on is short, and we want all the
ffrowth that can be obtained before it closes. Bedding plants ought now to be
clearrd out of the house into pits or frames, or even to sheltered borders, where, in
case of frost or heavy rain, mats or spare lights may be placed over them.
*^* Past issues of tie Floral World contain copious calendars of operations ;
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year.
TO COEEESPO:XDENTS.
Generic Distixctioxj^ between- Calvdivm and Alccasia. — W. Rose. — In
reply to several inquiries which we have had addressed to us upon this subject, we
resolve the question in the following manner, which will serve to dissipate all the
doubts which can be cjnceived upon the generic identity of these elegant plants.
The species of Caladiura and Alocasia do, without doubt, very much resemble each
other in tlieir habit and foliage, and it appaars at first sight extremely difficult to
distint^uish one from the other in the absence of their elegant inflorescence, and
more "especially during the early stages of the growth of the species of the latter
genus. However, even when the Caladia and Alocasise have not yet developed their
snathes (inflorescence), the first may he recognized by their rhizome being always
tubercular and their leaves invariably radical ; and the ■ second by their distinct
stems wbich are more or less raised. So much for their habit ; now for their inflo-
rescence. "With the Caladium, the ^padix flowers along its whole length — the
females beins: situated at the base, the males at the upper part, and the neutrals in
the centre. With the Alocasia, the floral disposition is precisely similar, but the
gpadix is always prolonged in a sterile appendix.
Pampas Grass. — P. B. — We really cannot assign any reason for the non-
flowerin'T of your plant, after being several years planted. It is a fact, however,
that the°plants of pampas vary much in individual qualities, and there are amongst
them some that appear to be incapable of producing flowers, just as in strawberries,
seed saved from one good variety only will produce staminiferous plants, pistili-
ferous plants, hermaphrodites, and plants that never flower at all. At all events,
we should leave the plant alone ; it may, after all, be only delaying the time of its
flowering.
Azalea SrcKERS. — B. G. — The suckers will make nice plants if they are well
rooted before they are removed. To make sure of roots, remove the soil so as to
explore them nearly to the part of the root they spring from, and surround them
with a mixture of chopped n:oss,(very small), peat, and silver sand, equal parts of
each. By August next the suckers will be well rooted, and may then be cut oflf the
stump they ri.-e from, and be potted separately.
Names of Ferxs. — S. J.., BirTcenJieacl. — 1. Cystopteris fragilis ; 2. Pteris
tremula ; 3. Lastrea dilatata dumetorum.
Heating a Small Plant-house. — Ada of Surrey. — Having tried all the make-
shift modes of heating, and found many of them better than nothing, and some few
almost free from objection (a grand quality for any stove inside a house), we have
at last settled upon Hayss Constant Stove as the very best and cheapest. As for
burning many hours, it really seems, when once lighted, as if it would never have
done. The season is past now.and all these inventions lose their importance for a time.
But before next autumn we shall take an opportunity to say another word upon this
subject. For the present we direct inquirers after Hays's Constant Stove to the
agent, Mr. Baker, Harp Lane, Tower Strt,et. London, E.G. It is pleasing to hear
of your success with tuberoses, but are we to understand that you really had twenty-
six to thirty-two blooms from any one bulb ?
AcHiMiNES.— I'. J. H.—ln the sixth volume of the Floeal World, page 67,
this subject was treated at length, and to that we must refer you for a full treatise.
It is easy enough to grow these bulbs. Pot them during February, March, and
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 127
April, in sliallow pans or small pots, in a mixture of equal parts of peat, leaf-
mould, and silver sand, and place them in a moist heat of 60' to 70". It matters not
how this lieat is obtained, provided it is sweet, and the pots are near the glass. A
dung-bed in a common frame will answer as well as a tank in a propagating-house,
if the maniigement is good. When they have grown about two inches, trans-
plant them into their flowering-pots. It is the custom to put three plants in an
eight-inch pot, hut where good growing is the practice, one plant is found to be
quite enough, as it can soon he raide to fill the pot, and produce a profusion of
flowers. The soil for flowering them in should consist of four parts mellow loam,
two parts leaf-mould, and one part each of peat and silver sand, A steady heat,
the plants kept near the glass, regular syringing, and a little shading on sunny
days, and neat stakes as soon as the plants require support, are the several requisites
to success, which, with this beautiful plant, is well worth striving for. Tlie plants
you h ive singly in thumbs must be shifted to 48-size as soon as the thumbs are full
of roots. The achiraines does not require much moisture ; at the same time, neglect
of watering both at the root and overhead with the syringe will be sure to invite red
spider.
Caladiums. — T. J. K. — The treatment of these beautiful plants was admirably
described bv one of the heads of dep irtments at Kew in the fourth volume of the
Floral World, page 179, and at page 115 of the same volume are some remarks
on their uses as bedders — remarks not then intended as prophetic, but which in
respftct of Battersea Park and the Parisian gardens have proved to be so. Your
caladiums Avill by this time require a shift on, and the soil should be fibrous
loam, peat, and leaf-mould, with the addition of sand. The great secret of success
is to keep them in a good heat, with plenty of atmospheric moisture and abundance
of water at the roots, shading from hot sunshine, and shifting on as fast as they fill
their pots w'irh roots.
Double White Sweet Pea. — 3Irs. K., of Romford. — ^We have never met
with u double white sweet pea, and are in great doubt if such a thing exists. Pro-
bably it is the common white everlasting pea you are desirous of obtaining. If so,
you may obtain seed from Messrs. Jas. Carter and Co. Almost any nurseryman
can supplv plants, and in fact it ought to be found in plenty everywhere, tor it
is a fine thing. If any difficulty in obtaining it in your district, send to Messrs. E.
G. Henderson and Son, Wellington Road, St. John's Wood.
GexNETYLLIs and llT.r)\noMX.—Iiocklocl(/e.— These two genera are closely alljed,
yet the same treatment will not do for all the species enumerated under them. The
points in which alone they diff"er — that is as to requirements— :ire as to the tempe-
ratures best adapted for them. As a rule the species of Genetyllis are green-
house shrubs, and as a rule the species of Hedaroma are stove shrubs, but
there are exceptions under both heads. The points in which they agree
are these, that they require a sound, but gritty loamy soil of a highly nou-
rishing character, as much air as their constitution will bear and the season will
allow, abundance of water while growing freely, and to be at all times guarded
against excessive damp either in the atmosphere or the soil. They belong to rather
dry climates, where, in the growing season, rain flills abundantly. Genetj^Uis
tulip f era is a favourite subject for exhibition, to grow it to a fine size and condition
is the work of some years. It requires a light airy greenhouse, and will do well
with such treatment as Epacrises and Cape heaths thrive under, except that it must
have a stronger soiL As for the getting up of specimens, that is a matter of stopping,
training, and tying, and on which books can afford but little aid. G. macrostegio
is a fine species, requiring the same treatment. Of the Hedaromas, K. latfolia,
H. pinifolia, and H. thymoides are the best. Treat them the same as the Gene-
tyllis, but with more heat. Where there is no stove these may do very well, with
coaxintr, in a warm greenhouse.
Fifty Spking Flowers.— (?. S. Woodhtiry. — From the excellent lists by Mr.
Robinson, Mr. Williams, The O'Shane, and others tlnit have lately appeared, selec-
tions of spring flowers may be easily made. But here is a list of fifty prepared
during an inspection of a collection of upwards of 5000 species and varieties of
hardy plants at Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Sons' Nursery, St. John's Wood : —
Adonis vernalis, Alyssum saxitile compactum. Anemone nemorosa, Arabis albida,
Aubrietia deltoidea grandiflora, Aubriecia purpurea, Bellls perennis (various), Caltha
palustris fl'ire pleno, Cheirantlius alpinus, Cheiranthus cheiri (various), Dondia
epipactis, Eranthis hyemalis, Ficaria ranuuculoides, Helleborus niger, Helleborus
12S THE IXOllAL WORLD A^'D GAllDE^' GLUDE.
olympicus, ILq)atica ungnlosa, Hepatica triloba (in a dozen A-arietie?), Iberis sem-
perflorens, Iberis saxatile, Leucojum vernum, Myosotis inontana, Ornitbop;alum
arabicum, Phlox alpinus (many varietie?, all lovely), Primula acaulis (tbis is the
common primrose, of which Mr. Webb, of Calcot Gardens, near Readin<^. has a
remarkable collection, comprising double white, double crimson, double yellow and
double lilac, etc., etc., all far too beautiful to become popular, so let the eclectic
cultivators obtain and keep them). Primula farinosa, Primnla cortusoides, Primula
elatior (manv varieties), Saxifraga oppositifolia, Thalictrum anemonoides, Tussila^o
alpina, Yinca minor, Viola tricolor, Viola odorata (many varieties), Alyssum utri-
culatum, Androsacea carnea. Anemone Pulsatilla, Arabis CJUicasica, Asperula odo-
rata, Cardamine amara, Corydalis bulbosa, Draba aizoides, Erinus alpinus. Helle-
borus atrorubens, Helleborus orientalis formosa, Iris alata, Iris fux'cata, Myosotis
sylvatic'a, Primula decora, Pulmonaria caucasica, Ranunculus graminens. In this
selection only one bulbous plant, namely, Eranthis hyemalis, is admitted, but G. S.
will remember that from the bulbs we may select a good iifty, or a hundred, or even
a thousand varieties of hardy spring flowers. The fifty now offered are all quite
hardy, and adapted to grow in any common garden soil, requiring no special care,
and al'l may be had at from ninepence to eighteenpence per plant. ^Moreover, the
whole lot may be obtained without difficulty, and may be planted at any time, now
as well as anv, or they may be obtained in pots, and will need only to be turned out
into a nicely-dug border during showery weather, and afterwards to be kept clean
from weeds, and from being overhung by trees. Spring flowers, like other flowers,
have not been created in fifties or twelves, and when we determine upon an arbitrary
number, we may have to omit good things or admit bad ones. Now the cream of
the pres'ent selection is the first 33 ; it will be noticed that we begin the alphabet
attain after Viola odorata, having at that point to find 17 more to make up the
number. But those 33 form the foundation of any possible thousand or so distinct
sorts as for example, we have ourselves about twelve varieties of Primula acaulis
(common Primrose), but here we make it count for one only, leaving it to the cultiva-
tor to select among the varieties. So again of Hepaticas, Phlox alpinus, etc. But here
we must quit the subject, for if we yield to its attractions we shall write about
nothing else.
Potatoes. — Xovice. —The following are first-rate sorts, growing moderately, and.
as compared with the generally robust habits of the best kinds, decidedly short in
the haulm. -Chinese Early (Stuart and Mein), Fairbalrn's Pink, Smith's Early,
King of Potatoes, Mona's "^Pride, Martin's Early Globe, Milky White, Paterson's
Victoria. The sorts you inquire about can be obtained of Messrs. Sutton and Sous,
Reading.
PicoTEEs Cakxatioxs, ETC. — J. E. F — It would be bsst to make up your list
for this year from the "Garden Oracle," in which we have grouped the varieties ac-
cording to merit, to furnish cultivators with an instantaneous key to everything good.
It is a°mistake to suppose that these plants cannot be well grown in the suburbs of
towns. Mr. Kirtland, formerly of Banbury, and now of Stoke Xewington, one of
the first pieotee growers in the country, keeps a good collection, and grows them well,
at the Albion Nursery, which is within the four mile radius from Charing Cross,
and exactly throe miles from St. Paul's Cathedral. Mr. Kirtland's essays on the
cultivation of these flowers will be found in the issues for 1866.
Catalogues Received. — Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, '' Catalogue of
Fern Seeds," and " Amateur's Guide for 1867." — Messrs. Carter and Co., High
Holborn, " Gardener's Vade Mecum, 1867." Tbis is a remarkable work, full of
interesting matter, and displaying everywhere great ability in its preparation. It
is not given away, but sold at Is. — Jlr. John Fraser, Lea Bridge Road, "Cata-
logue of Garden and Farm Seeds." — Messrs. Cuthiish and Son, Highgate, '' Cata-
logue of Garden and Farm Seeds."— J/e-wr.?. Barr and Sugden, King Street,
cZvent Garden, " Guide to Kitchen Garden," and " Guide to Flower Garden, 1867."
][Jr. B. S. Williams, Rolloivag, '-Catalogue of Flower and Vegetable Seeds." —
Messrs. Stuart and Mein, Kelso, X.B., "Catalogue of Seeds, Roots, and Imple-
ments."—Jir. James Veitch, King's Road, Chelsea, " Catalogue of Garden and
Flower Seeds."— J/e-wr^. F. a. Henderson and Son, St. John's Wood, " Catalogue
of Flower, Vegetable, and Agricultural fiecds."— Messrs. Hooper and Co., Covent
Garden, '■ Spring Catalogue, 1867." Contains many things besides seeds, such as
gladioli, sub-tropical plants, roses, fruit-trees, etc., etc.
THE FLORAL WORLD
GAEDEN GUIDE.
MAY, 1S6 7.
THE HOETUS FEXESTEALIS.
IINDOW Grardens are usually supposed to consist of flower-
pots on window-sills, and though in that simple form
they may be very attractive and highly entertaining to
their possessors, they are but suggestions of better
things, which ingenuity and taste will contrive to super-
sede them. To our country readers, window gardens are matters of
small consequence ; to town readers — and there are thousands such on
the look-out every month for these pages — window gardening is a
matter of very great importance. We have adopted the term
" Hortus fenestralis," the garden of or belonging to the window, to
designate a better kind of window embellishment than either flower-
pots or. wire-work, and because it seemed that by the use of a new
term we might obtain for our remarks on the subject more attention
than by the somewhat abused term by which such things have been
hitherto known. AYe first took notice of the new mode of embel-
lishing windows in our journeys towards the western parts of the
metropolis, where there were noticeable examples of a most tasteful
method of enlivening the interiors of apartments, with but little
sacrifice of light, and with the advantage sometimes of a total ex-
clusion of an unseemly prospect, and perhaps administering at the
same time a rebuke to inquisitiveness, for it is impossible for passers
by to see into apartments, the windows of which are treated in the
mode we are now desirous of recommending to the notice of our
readers. Possibly many of our readers may have noticed examples of
what we call the Hortus fenestralis in Piccadilly and St. James's
Street, where there are suites of windows with small projecting glass
cases which at all seasons of the year are kept richly furnished.
An essential feature of the Hortus fenestralis, is that it is in the
fashion of a closed case fitted to the window, extending to half its
height or more ; it may indeed be of the same height as the window,
and projecting outwards to the full extent of the sill or beyond it.
It is a very simple afi'air, but, like many other simple things, has been
but lately thought of; and as it is obviousl}- adapted to render many
a dreary look-out agreeable, and enlarge the sphere of horticultural
YOL. II. — NO. Y. ^
30
THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
practice for many garden-loving townsfolk, it is surely entitled to
consideration in the light of a new invention. If the reader will now
turn to any one of the windows of the apartments occupied during
the perusal of this, it will be seen that there is a space both within
and without the glass sashes that may be appropriated for the culti-
vation of plants, as the annexed diagram will illustrate. Let A
B represent the inner sill, B the existing glass sashes, and
C the outer sill. The whole width of A and C may be
appropriated to plants by providing a glass case to fit it ;
and as most windows consist of two sashes, the lower
sash may be removed and its place be taken by the case ;
or if that is objectionable, the space C may be appropriated to the case,
which may be allowed to project a little beyond the actual width of C
in order to gain a suf-
ficient depth for a good
effect. Where the win-
dows are large, and
there is no objection to
a considerable projec-
tion, two feet depth
may be considered
liberal for the Hortus
fenestralis ; its width
and height will be de-
termined by the window.
The next business is to
fit it. It is well if the
base be made of one
stout slab of slate, the
joints may be iron, and
the lower sash of the
window may be made
to serve as its inner
side, and the means of
access to it. Any
skilled worker in glass
and metals could fit up
a case if furnished with
such a design as the
employer would ap-
""^""^ * '■ oXremarfhaTev^
part of the workmanship must be good, and there ought to be about
the whole affair an elegance of finish consistent with the elegance
of its purpose. Messrs. Barr and Sugden, the eminent seedsmen of
King Street, Covent Garden, have for a long time past given their
attention to the construction of cases of this sort, and we have in-
spected many that they have built and fitted, and from sketches of
many such, we have selected the subjoined as fair examples.
Let us suppose we have a window to deal with. It is perhaps a
window of comparatively little use to afford either light or air, and
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
131
mayhap has been washed with some preparation to render it nearly
opaque. A cheerful display of greenery would be far preferable to
a window that looks like a great sheet of dirty paper marked with
lines dividing it into squares. "VVe remove the lower sash, or we
take out both the sashes, and construct as deep a case as inner and
outer sills admit of, and perhaps a little more than the width of the
sill on the outside. There must be escape for water from the bottom
of the case, and there ought to be six inches depth enclosed by a
moulding round the base, in which to place the soil in which the
plants are to be grown. Over the bottom should be strewed a layer
of broken bricks, of the size of walnuts, and over that a mixture to
be made as follows. Take of turfy peat, chopped or torn to the
size of walnuts, with all the dust resulting from the operation;
three parts of this peat,
with one part silver sand,
and one part bricks broken
almost to the size of peas,
would form a compost in
which any plant adapted
for the case would grow
to perfection. A much
greater depth of soil than
the six inches allowed for
in the construction of the
case, can be obtained by
constructing a miniature
rockery, and so heaping
up the soil towards the
centre between the stones
of which tlie rockery is
formed. The best stone
for the purpose is soft
sandstone, but common
coke will do if there is
any difficulty; or picked
pieces from the " burrs "
used in garden rockeries
will do very well, as they
soon become mossy, and
plants grow well amongst
them.
As a rule, there are no
plants to equal ferns for
these cases, and as they will afford more space for them to grow than
ordinary fern cases, some species of large size may be introduced. It
will be understood, however, that a suuny south window is not the
place for ferns ; there, indeed, another course must be pursued. As a
rule, it will not be possible to heat these wiudow-gardens, though in
some instances, no doubt, hot water will be made to circulate around
and beneath them, for their protection during cold weather. But when
not so aided, the hardier kinds of ferns should alone be planted in
132 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
them. There can be little occasion to furnish lists of ferns suitable,
as a reference to the " Garden Oracle " for 1866 will supply all
needful information. The ferns adapted for cool houses and cool
cases being just such as are required here.
One form of case combines an aquarium with a fernery. Here
the lower half or a third of the window space should be blocked
with a slate slab, which forma tlie back of the tank, the glass
front being within the room. It has been shown in the " Book of
the Aquarium " that it is not generally advisable to allow the light to
stream through a tank, and therefore an opaque back is preferable to
glass. In furnishing a case of this description, the common English
ivy, Hedera lielix, in the normal condition in which we usually find
it in hedgerows, would be most valuable, as it thrives in closed cases
and can be trained up to form a most elegant green tracery. Those
beautiful climbing ferns, Lygodmm scandens^ and Lygodium Japonica,
are also well adapted for the same purpose, and must have copper
wires fitted to train them to. But here is a golden opportunity for
growing the lovely filmy ferns, such as Tricliomanes radicans and
Hymeno'pliyllum Timhridgense, with other moisture-loving kinds,
such as Asplenium fontanum, and many of the larger varieties of
mosses met with in bogs and the neighbourhood of fountains. In
the furnishing of the tank the rules given in the " Book of the
Aquarium " may be followed strictly. As many of the readers of
the Floeal "Would do not possess that book, a few practical hints
may be useful. First, then, it is advisable to introduce small fishes
only, and those should be varieties of carp, the gold carp being the
most generally useful. To every two gallons capacity of the tank
one small carp may be allow^ed, and no more. The water should
never be changed unless some accident renders it necessary to clean
out the tank, and cleanse it thoroughly. All snails, and in fact all
the small animals commonly used as " scavengers," are best dispensed
with ; they are simply a nuisance. It is also a fallacy to intro-
duce water-plants, but Valisneria spiralis is an exception, as it
generally thrives if planted in a bed of pebbles, and left undisturbed.
In every part of the rock, and the sides of the aquarium, confervae
should be allowed to grow, but the front glass, through which the
view is obtained, must be kept quite clean by the occasional use of a
sponge firmly fixed to a stick.
"Where sunny windows are fitted with cases, and a gay display
of flowers are required, it will be advisable to introduce plants in pots,
and plunge them to the rim in cocoa-nut fibre or moss, and change
them frequently as they go out of flower, for others in full prime.
It must be understood that we love light and air, and cannot
advise the use of a Hortus fenestralis where it would be likely
to deprive an inhabited apartment of due supplies of those requisites
of life. It is, however, always possible to construct them so that
the upper sash of the window is left free for ventilation and illumina-
tion. • S. H.
133
SUMMEE SALADINa.
BY CALVEET CLAEKE (laTE OF WIMBLEDON).
MONGST the cares of a Tvell-ordered garden there are but
few subjects that demand more attention and fore-
thought than to keep up successional supplies of salading
during summer. I would impress upon those whose
business it may be to supply these subjects, the import-
ance of constant thought and attention, as very frequently a remissness
in these apparently small matters leads to observations and conjectures
which it is not always pleasant to hear ; as, if salads are in favour with
those who have a right to expect them under favourable circum-
stances, we may be certain that if there is any lack of them the
gardener's shortcomings will be measured in the exact proportion to
their absence from the table. It must not be inferred from this that
it is always possible, under all circumstances, to secure a supply,
indeed no kitchen-garden crops are so precarious as these in some
light, dry, gravelly soils, where, to get a crisp, fine-hearted lettuce in
the month of August is simply impossible if the weather for a few
weeks previous has been hot and dry ; but, on the other hand, if we
are dealing with a loamy or clayey soil, the management must be
somewhere at fault if they are conspicuous by their absence from the
table. But so much depends upon management, that I have thought
it desirable just now to offer a few hints that may be useful at least
to amateur readers. Placing first on this short list the Lettuce, as the
most useful amongst them, I may remark that after the second week
in May all lettuce seeds should be sown where they are to stand.
They should be sown thinly in shallow drills eighteen inches apart,
and when well up thin them out to fifteen inches from plant to plant.
The ground should be rich, na}', heavily manured, and turned up
from the bottom at least eighteen inches deep. This is the best
preventi\e against " bolting," or running to seed before their time,
and the best of all methods to secure a crisp, tender-hearted lettuce.
It beats all the'watering that can be done ; and speaking about water-
ing, I would advise the reader never to give them a drop artificially
after they are well up, unless he can continue to give them copious
supplies every other day. In fact, I don't believe in watering them
at all, for it only creates a sort of reaction that has a tendency to
make them start for seeding. Give them a thick layer of good fat
dung twelve inches below the surface, and it will produce an effect
that will startle the senses of those who never tried it. As the sum-
mer advances choose the coolest position in the garden in which to
grow them — a north bank or under a shady wall are about the best
spots that can be had. Sow frequently ; that is to say, just a pinch
of seed every fortnight until the end of August, choosing more open
positions for the last two sowings. As to the sorts, there are no
better for summer use than the London Market and the Paris
White Cos. The last-named variety I grew in our loamy soil last
year to a high state of perfection.
134 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
"We liave next the Turnip Radishes. These are never better
than when grown in the heat of summer, but they must be grown in
the shade and abundantly watered. Sow the first lot in the shade
about the first of June, and continue to do so until the end of August,
but rather than to batter the soil down by repeated waterings before
the seed is up, I prefer to shade the bed either with old mats or a
thatched hurdle, removing the shading as soon as the seeds are up.
If birds are troublesome, put a net over the bed.
Beetroot ought, for a few early roots, to be sown under glass,
be nursed on in pots, and turned out in the ground in May. If
these are liberally dealt with by repeated applications of manure-
water, and are otherwise standing in rich soil, they will produce nice
roots by July. The main crop of beets should be sown late in April
or early in May, the ground should be deeply dug but not manured
for them.
The first sowing of Endive may now be made. Sow it in the
open quarters where it is to stand ; thin out quickly, as no plant
sufi'ers more from a crowded state in the seed bed than this. Large
heads early in the season should not be aimed at; tie them up when
quite dry, and make additional sowings every three weeks.
If Celery is wanted, treat it the same as recommended for beet-
root, and keep it well fed from the sewage pump, always using the
precaution of adding a little more dry earth the next morning after
watering. This prevents evaporation, and keeps the roots much
longer moist. The main crop of celery I have nothing to say about,
as the cultivation has been frequently treated of.
Mustard and Cress may be sown in the shade every week, and
during the season make about three sowings of the Corn Salad.
The green leaves of this are very useful i'or mixed salads.
The above are all essential subjects to a good salad. There are a
few other smaller knickknacks sometimes grown for special taste, but I
need not name them here, as they are not sufficiently well known to
brin» them into general use, and they can be very well spared.
THE AUCUBA JAPONICA.
HE old " spotted laurel " of the gardens, always a noble
evergreen, but sometimes despised, because "common,"
has of late years acquired immense importance as a
decorative plant, and, irrespective of its ornamental
value, has become peculiarly interesting to horticul-
turists, in consequence of the possibility of rendering it fertile as a
berry-bearing shrub, in which condition it naturally leaves the
holly far behind, by the splendour and abundance of its large scarlet
berries. A short monograph on our old friend may now be of some
value to our readers, though we must premise that every stage of
progress in the exaltation of the aucuba to its present dignified
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 135
position as one of the best of exhibition plants has been duly noted
in the Floral "World, and reference to past issues will show that
not a single fact respecting it has escaped our chronicling pen — a
good test, we will venture to say, of the comprehensiveness of this
humble and by no means voluminous work. We have not time to
hunt up references to the subject, but we find, at page 79 of the
seventh volume, a record of the first exhibition, by Mr. Standish, of
the first English-grown specimen bearing ripe berries ; and in the
issue for April, 1865, will be found a resume of the facts which con-
tribute so directly to render the aucuba one of the most interesting
plants in cultivation. If some few of these particulars are now
repeated, it is not for the sake of repetition, but because it is
unavoidable ; and we are anxious that all the readers of the Floral
"World should understand the aucuba, and derive the fullest advan-
tage from its capabilities.
The Aucuba Japonica belongs to the natural order Cornacece, or
Cornels, and is therefore allied to the common dogwood of our
English wastes ; but the relationship is rather remote, for it appears
that the pollen of the dogwood will not fertilize the aucuba. The
plant is in no way related to any of the laurels, though it is some-
times called " spotted laurel," on account of its large, leathery,
laurel-like leaves ; but it is more nearly related to the ash and the
alaternus than to any laurel. The introduction of this shrub to
England took place in 1783, and for many years thereafter it was
grown in the stove ; the rule of subjecting all exotic plants to a high
temperature being then in full force. In the course of time it
was found capable of bearing a greenhouse temperature, and to be
healthier there than in the stove. In the next stage of observation
it was found hardy enough to survive the winter out-of-doors, and at
last it became a common garden shrub, thriving far better when
exposed to all weathers than when coddled under glass, and treated
as a tender subject. To trace the course of its popularity is quite
unnecessary, for our readers are all aware that for the last thirty
years it has been planted more extensively than any other hardy
shrub, and especially in the neighbourhood of towns, one of its par-
ticularly good qualities being that it bears smoke well.
On some few occasions the common aucubas have borne what
appeared to be red berries, but which proved to be only the outer
envelopes of apocryphal berries, or, we may say, abortive berries,
destitute of pulp and of a vital germ. But these abortive berries
reminded cultivators thatin its native country this fine tree bears
berries abundantly, and that it would be desirable to render it fruit-
ful here ; for we can enjoy the beauty of red berries in the winter
as fully as the Japanese. The great interest of the subject turns
upon this point. Some plants bear flowers that contain both male
and female organs — that is to say, both pistils and stamens ; as for
example, the apple, pear, plum, etc. Others bear flowers of two kinds;
in one kind we find the male organs, and in the other the female ;
but both kinds of flowers are on the same plants. Examples of this
occur in the cucumber and the maize. In the cucumber the male
flower contains one prominent stamen, and the female flower one
136 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
pistil, and at the base of the flower a rudimentary fruit. In the
maize or Indian corn, the male flowers constitute the elegant feathery
spun-glass-like plume with which the plant is crowned ; and the
female flowers are found in the axils of the leaves, lower down, where
ultimately the " cobs" of corn are formed. LinuKUS classes plants
of this last kind as Moncecia, or "one-housed." A third kind of
plant has the male flowers on one plant, and the female flowers on
another. Examples of this occur in the Pampas grass, the male of
which is the most robust in habit, and produces chafly plumes of
flowers, in which stamens are found ; the female being more light
and graceful, and consistino^ of pistils only, and rudimentary ovules,
which, if the pistils are fertilized by pollen from the male, ultimately
become grains of true corn, or '• Pampas grass-seed." Plants of
this kind Linnaeus classes under the term Dicecia, or "two-housed."
It is to this last class in the Linnaean arrangement that the aucuba
belongs ; the male flowers are ordinarily produced on separate plants
from the females, as is the case with the English yew and the com-
mon fig.
The first importation of the aucuba, in 17S3, consisted of female
plants only. Por many years after this form of the plant had been
acquired, Japan was closed against European commerce, and to
obtain the male plant was impossible. Meantime, the gardeners of
Europe propagated from the original stock ; and the gardens of the
world, we might almost say — at all events, the gardens of Europe
and America — have been stocked almost to repletion with females,
while the male remained as yet unknown. But a few years since,
Japan was again opened to the ships, the merchants, and the tra-
vellers of Europe ; and amongst the many enterprising men who
seized the opportunity ibr botanical exploration was the veteran
Kobert Fortune, who had already enriched our gardens with many
precious plants from China and Shanghae. To Portune we are
indebted for the introduction of the male aucuba, which was first
grown by Mr. Standish, of Ascot, and by him in due time distri-
buted at a price which made a good return for the costs incurred in
obtaining it, but none too much, considering its intrinsic value, and
the important consequences to which its difi'usion will be certain to
lead.
Simultaneously, or nearly so, with Mr. Portune's acquisition of
the male form of Aucuba Japonica, an Indian species, A. Himalaicay
was introduced. This appears to be quite hardy, but is at present
scarce, and has not, so far as we are aware, been fully tested as to
its ability to endure the rigours of this climate. But these were not
all the acquisitions of the kind of which we became apprised about
the year 1860, An extensive series of varieties of A. Japonica were
ushered into notice, and amongst them the f/ree«-leaved, or normal
form of our old established " spotted laurel," that is to say, the same
plant in the uniform deep green hue of its original condition ; or, as
we may say, the common aucuba before it became variegated. This
was at first called Aucuba Japonica fcBinina vera, that is, the true
female aucuba ; but the name by which it is now known is A. J.f.
viridisj the "green-leaved" female aucuba. The several varieties
THE FLOKAL WORLD AIO) GARDEN GUIDE.
137
will be enumerated and described presently. Let us now glance at
the structural peculiarities of the flowers.
The male flower, Fig. 1^ consists of four red sepals or petals (it
cannot matter what they are called), and four stamens on filaments
of equal length. The female flower, Pig. 2,
has four petaline divisions of the same kind
as the male, but in place of four stamens it
has one pistil, the stigma of which is cylin-
drical, and the pollen shed by the staraens
of the male flower is applied, at the proper
time and in the proper manner, to the
stigmas of the female flowers. The result
is, on the female plants, an abundant
production of ovate berries nearly as large
as rose-hips and of a deep red colour, as re-
presented in Fig. 4. These berries consist
of single seeds enveloped in a scarlet rind. ^ig. i.
"When cut in half the embryo plant is
seen near the base. Mr. Staudish was the first to produce a crop
of berries, and amongst a number of seedlings raised by him, one
has produced flowers in which there
are both male and female organs;
that is to say, this particular plant
is apparently hermaphrodite. It has
not, however, so far as we are aware,
been fertilized by its own pollen, and
therefore we cannot as yet describe
it as a true hermaphrodite. jS'ever-
theless, we may hope for herma-
phrodites which will be self-fertili-
zing, as are the flowers of the wild
Fig. 2. rose, and ten thousand other subjects
that produce both male and female
organs in the same flower, for in the male aucuba the undeveloped
germs of the stigma are present, and some accident may result in the
development of both organs in the same flower. A flower from Mr.
Standish's presumed hermaphrodite is represented in Fig. 3.
To cultivate the aucuba is easy enough. It will grow in almost
any soil and situation. But to grow it as a
conservatory plant it must have the care that
is usually bestowed on nearly hardy subjects.
A free, rather light, but good soil is requisite,
consisting in great part of loam with thoroughly
decayed manure and leaf-mould added. Many
of the new varieties are far superior in beauty
of leafage to the common form of the plant
with which we are familiar in gardens, and ^^'
therefore are well worth growing in pots until they attain so large
a size as not to be conveniently dealt with in that way, and may
be planted out to make garden trees. As the new varieties are
expensive, a word on their propagation may be of service. The safest
138
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
method is to take cuttings of the young shoots in the month of July
and put in shallow pans and cover them with bell-glasses. Having
made an early speculation in all the new varieties, paying at the rate
of five to seven shillings per leaf for some of them (as for example,
£1 for a plant with only three or four leaves), we felt the importance
of quickly increasing
them, and adopted a
method at once simple,
and which proved emi-
nently successful. Shal-
low pans were filled with
a mixture consisting of
about equal proportions
of loam, peat, sharp sand,
and potsherds broken to
the size of peas. Cut-
tings, an inch and a half
to two inches long, taken
from the young wood
before it was fully hard-
ened, and dibbled close to-
gether in this mixture and
covered with bell-glasses,
rooted quickly, and the
bell - glasses were re-
moved, and the young
plants were wintered with
ordinary greenhouse
treatment. The peculiar
mixture they were in pre-
vented damping off' in
winter (the mixture was
adopted for that purpose,
for the cuttings were
too costly to be put to
any risk), and in April
they were potted sepa-
rately and kept shut
rather close in frames for
a fortnight afterwards,
and were then put out of
doors, the pots plunged
to their rims in cocoa-nut
fibre, and after that they
pretty well took care of
themselves and grewfreely.
I^early all the plants of the new varieties sent out by the trade
have been grafted. This is a very simple method of multiplying
them, and the modus operandi is as follows : — Stocks are obtained by
pegging down the common aucubas in the month of May. Every
layer is tongued and soon makes roots. In September the rooted
Fig, 4.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 139
shoots are separated and potted in small pots and are set aside in
cold frames for a month or two. They are then transferred to a
warm house, and the varieties to be grafted are put in the same
house with them. They begin to grow almost immediately, and as
soon as there are signs of movement their heads are cut off, and the
scarcely bursting shoots of the varieties are grafted on them by side
or cleft grafting ; usually the first, for there is not enough wood for
cleft grafting. As soon as the grafts are tied on, they are placed in
a steady and quite moist but gentle heat, and stock and graft grow
together almost immediately and with considerable speed. We find
it very difficult to keep the plants clean so long as they are subjected
to artificial heat ; indeed, we have had our stock thoroughly foul
with green-fly on several occasions when pushing the growth. "We
can only advise fumigation the moment the fly aj^pears, and the
smart use of the syringe over the leaves at all times that the state of
the plants and weather will allow. When they are in flower the
syringe must not be used. A golden rule to get rid of all vermin in
spring, is to put them out of doors as soon as it is safe to do so ;
this makes an end of vermin completely. Ours, that had been win-
tered under glass, were put out on the 12th of April, and will remain
out till October next.
[Fertilization of the female flowers is such a simple process tliat
we hope all our readers will include it in the round of their garden
recreations. It is best if male and female plants are in flower at
the same time and in the same house. In this case the pollen can
be removed from the stamens of the male flowers daily (mid-day is
the best time), with a dry and soft camel' s-hair pencil, and at once
applied to the female flowers. To pass the brush lightly over the
stamens first, and then lightly over the female flowers, is all suffi-
cient. If the male flowers first, which it is apt to do, having been
so hard forced in the nurseries for increase of stock, the pollen
should be brushed ofl" daily into a tin box (or into a box of any kind
lined with tin-foil), and when the flowers of the female are ex-
panded, it must be transferred to them from the box by means of a
camel's-hair pencil. Some precautions must be taken from the first
to prevent a waste of pollen, for whatever falls on the mould inside
the pot may be considered lost for ever. Mr. Crute, who has
exhibited the finest specimen berried aucuba, covers the soil of the
pot containing the male plant with tin-foil just before the flowers
open, and when removing the pollen from the flowers, takes care
also to sweep up any that may have fallen on the tin-foil. I lay
some small squares of glass over the soil, which answers pretty well,
but Mr. Crute's method is the most neat and complete, and is, there-
fore, recommended. The pollen may be kept for a great length of
time if cool and dry.
The berries of the aucuba swell slowly, and do not ripen till
nearly mid-winter, unless the plants are constantly kept under glass.
"When ripened, the appearance of the plant, if the berries are plentiful,
is truly magnificent, but to display the berries well it is advisable to
remove a few of the uppermost leaves. In the month of March is
the best time to sow the berries. They require no preparation, but
140 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
may be sown as they are, in any liglit, good soil, one inch deep, and
will, in the course of about two months, germinate. As the seeds
are worth at the present time a shilling each, it is advisable to sow
them in pots, and place the pots in a frame or pit, that they may be
exposed to fewer risks than if sown in the open ground. We will
now enumerate the varieties of A. Japonica.
MALE ATJCUBAS.
Auciiba Japonica masculaviridis. — This is the green-leaved form
of the male ; a neat and handsome shrub, with dark-green glossy
leaves.
A. J. m. angustata. — An elegant narrow-leaved variety ; quite
green.
A. J. m. hicolor. — Bold and handsome, the centre of the leaf
striped with yellow ; very showy.
A. J. m. i-aria. — Leaves marked with fine yellow blotch.
A. J. m. maculata. — E-ichly blotched with yellow and cream
colour.
FEMALE ATJCrSAS.
Aucubas Japonica f(E7nina viridis. — The green-leaved form ; quite
a handsome shrub, irrespective altogether of its berry-bearing
properties.
A. J.f. elegans. — Fine broad leaves, deeply serrated, with broad
centre of yellow and green margio.
A. J.f. latifolia. — Very broad dark-green leaf ; a strikingly hand-
some shrub.
A. J.f. limbata. — The margins of the leaves are yellow, and the
disk exhibits two shades of green.
A.J.f.longifolia. — A distinct and elegant variety, the leaves
green, longer, and narrower than usual.
A. J. f. longifolia variegata. — A moderately-well coloured form
of the last-named ; the variegation consists in lines and clouds of
sulphur and amber.
A. J. f macropliylla. — One of the most remarkable of all ; the
leaves extra broad, and quite alight green.
A. J. f . elegantissima. — Leaves extra large, with one large spot
of clear yellow, and the rest of the leaf green dappled with yellow ;
one of the handsomest of all.
A. J.f variegata aurea. — Superb stripe of gold yellow up the
centre of the leaf ; an excellent variety.
It is but right to add, that though Mr. Fortune's female
plant was distributed by Mr. Standis^h, Mr. Bull, of King's
Eoad, Chelsea, has the honour of introducing by far the greater
portion of the above, both male and female, the varieties having
been obtained from Japan by Dr. Yon. Siebold. The last in
the list is a true English sport, which occurred in the nursery of
Messrs. Cutbush and Son, of Highgate, who have propagated it, and
offer plants to all who like to pay for them. Amongst the many
males, it appears that the one called maculata is the most prolific of
pollen. S. H.
141
CULTIVATION or THE DAHLIA.
BY ME. J. COrECHA, YICTOIilA 2TUESERT, YICTORIA PARK.
is now thirty- seven years ago since I first began to
cultivate the Dahlia. The first I ever grew was a single
one, and I have continued cultivating them ever since,
and so am pretty intimately acquainted with the various
stages of progress up to the present time. I shall oifer
a very few remarks upon the following heads : — Propagating, soil,
planting, training, growing, growing hard eyes, defying earwigs or
any other vermin, cutting down, putting away, and the properties of
the flower.
Peopagatikg. — In propagating the dahlia, we always put the
tubers on in the second or third week in December. This may he
considered by some very early, but it is none too early for those who,
like myself, have to raise a large stock. We always cut them under
the joint, after they have sprouted, and then they will keep on
breaking out, and so you cut them again as fast as they sprout.
With such things as fuchsias and geraniums, you may cut above the
joint, or at the internode ; but with dahlias it is different, you must
with these cut under the joint. After you have taken oiff all the
cuttings you require, break off the remaining shoots, and then plant
the tuber, when it will produce one good plant. ■ Some persons
prefer pot roots to cuttings ; and this may be said in their favour,
that when put into the ground they grow much faster than cuttings.
I don't pretend to tell you the reason of this, but can assure you
that such is the case ; for although the pot plants will flag when
first put in the ground, yet after a while they recover, and then grow
faster and bloom earlier than plants raised from cuttings ; so also the
old bulbs, if planted after they are cut, will produce good plants,
and bloom earlier than the cuttings.
Soil. — One thing is certain with respect to the soil for dahlias,
and that is, that they are very fond of a great deal of manure. The
compost which I used many years ago was a spadeful of mould, with
half a bushel of dung ; mix them well together, and then tread it
down to make it rather hard, for unless you do this the dung will
make it too spongy. This compost I used with great success, and
showed as fine blooms as most persons, which is proved by the
number of prizes received at different times ; it is a similar compost
to this that I use at the present day.
Planting. — The first thing to do in the planting of dahlias is to
drive a stake in, so that they may be tied up at once, which will
remove all fear of their being broken by the wind, or other causes. If
this is attended to, there is nothing else of importance to think
about in planting them.
Training. — The old-fashioned method was to train dahlias like
poplar trees — that is, to take oft' all the shoots to the height of
three or four feet, and thus expose the poor thing's legs to view, and
compel them to run up to a great height. I remember growing one
142 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
once for exhibition, and T had to get a table and a man six feet high
to pnt a shade over it; and whenever the wind blew hard I would
go and hold it, to prevent it knocking against the shade and getting
injured. Now they are grown two or three feet high, so that a per-
son can stand at any point of his garden and view his whole collec-
tion comfortably. My opinion is that any tall-growing plant may be
grown dwarf, and flowered with good effect. The first I ever saw
was by Mr. Eussell, who grew for Mr. Proctor. He used to grow
from four arms ; he gave them a large quantity of dung, and the
plants grew strong, and produced fine blooms. To grow dwarf, put
your young plants into the ground, and let them grow till you can
bend them over to the ground again, w^hen peg them down, which
will allow the bottom shoots to grow up.
Watering. — At one time the watering of the dahlia was con-
sidered of very great importance, and a few years ago I used to
devote four hours every other day to watering my plants. But I
find now that they will do just as well without, and so of course
never give them any ; and I will tell you how I found it out. The
man who used to assist me in the operation left me suddenly, when
the plants never got any water, and they did just as well as in pre-
vious years. Now I certainly think that they should be made to
fetch their own water. Of course when we have them under cover
we must attend to them and water them, and they often grow so
vigorously that I have known them to lift the glass. But out of
doors all you have got to do is to plant them deep enough and they
will get their own. At one time it was the practice to w^ater them
by pouring the water all down at the stem ; but this is where they
want it least of all. AYatering at the stem makes them weak, and
makes them grow tall when they are much better dwarf. All you have
to do is, when planting, if the ground is dry, give them a thorough
good soaking, and then leave them to take care of themselves.
Geowikg Haed Eyes. — Here is a plan for growing hard-eyed
flowers. Take good strong plants, and let them be got in early.
Then let them grow wild so as to weaken the plant a bit, and then
cut away ; but if you cut very much you will only get a very few
blooms. In the beginning of October the plants will have made so
many flowers that the hard eyes will then come. With some persons,
however, it makes no diff'erence whether the flowers are hard-eyed
or soft-eyed. Whenever I go to a show I like to get there early, so
as to have plenty of time to make all arrangements that are necessary,
and not go just as it is time for the censors to commence work, and
then to be hurried away before I have had time to place my flowers
properly. And by going early I have often seen other things as well
which are well worth finding out. One day at the Crystal Palace I
saw a great gun among the growers up in a corner surrounded by
his blooms. He had a stick in his hand, and with it he was busily
picking out something from the centre of a flower, and putting it
into his mouth. AVell, he continued picking away till he had picked
out all the centre of the flower, and then with another instrument
he very carefully turned the other florets over towards the centre, so
as to hide the place ; and this is the way the public are deceived.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 143
But they do not quite pick out all the middle of the flower, but leave
a little bit just in the centre, so that if the judges happen to turn the
florets back they may see that it has a proper centre, whereas if they
turned them further back they would see a great bare place. Now
this kind of thing I maintain is both unfair and unjust. But many
of the seedlings palmed off upon the public are grown in this way.
If seedlings were grown and shown fairly, not half those which are
made so much fuss about would be regarded at all with favour by
the public.
Crocks. — "When striking cuttings, I always do entirely without
crocks, which makes them very much handier in turning out. I
do not say that my system is so much superior to the crock
method, but it is certainly cleaner and more tidy. I take an
ordinary thumb-pot and place it upside-down in the pot in which the
cuttings are to be placed, then fill up with compost and put in the
cuttings. Place the pots in a little heat, and you find them grow
faster than when crocks are used. The reason I suppose to be this,
that the hole of the large pot being quite free, the thumb-pot inside
gets full of warm air, and so brings them on faster.
Yeiimin. — Now then for the plan for defying earwigs, cater-
pillars, and all other vermin, from injuring your flowers. As soon
as the buds begin to expand, get a muslin bag about six inches each
way ; draw it round the stalk just underneath the bud, not too tight,
but just so that it will move up and down easily, and then place the
shade over it. As the bloom opens, the bag will give to it, so that
when the flower is fully blown you would be surprised how beauti-
fully clean it is, and entirely free from anything which can blemish
it. After the bag is put over the bud, you may leave it in perfect
security that no caterpillar will come and gnaw out the heart of your
pet, and thus in one night upset all the labour of the season. I use
these bags very extensively, often having as many as 200 of them
on fifty plants, which gives them a very strange appearance. In
training or growing for bloom, take one off one side and one off the
other alternately. It is not by any means advisable to grow very
large flowers, as the florets come very much better on the smaller
ones. Some persons leave only one bloom on the end of the stem,
which comes enormously large, but does not correspond with the
others, nor yet come so good in form.
Shadikg. — Placing a shade close over the flower is also very
bad, as it frequently makes them quite a different colour from what
they ought to be, by depriving them of light. Place your shade as
far from the top of your flower as possible, so that you protect them
from sunshine and rain ; and you will find that the hardier you make
your flowers the better they will be.
Taking up.— After they have done blooming, cut them down ;
then take up the tubers, and put them in a nice warm dry place. I
generally put mine by the side of a flue, where they get properly
dried. About three weeks' rest is sufiicient, when they may be got
to work again. As soon as they are dry, plant them again, and
don't give them much rest, as they do better without it.
Peopeeties. — In laying the flower, the florets should be arranged
144 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
like the slating of a house. The slates oq a roof are laid so that
each one covers the edges of the two immediately beneath it, and
that is exactly how the florets of a dahlia should be. You should
also not be able to see the under side of them, even if the bloom is
held sideways. In a reflexed flower, the florets are turned back, so
that the centre is thrown up. Many are cupped so much that it
leaves quite a hole in the centre ; but what we want is a floret
almost straight, and just sufficiently cupped to form a good flower ;
and then, even if held sideways, you cannot see the under side of
the florets. A flower should be two-thirds of a ball, and every floret
should cover the edges of the two underneath. The size of the
flower should be four inches, and never more than six. I think four
inches quite large enough, as many which run to six inches in dia-
meter are badly formed and coarse in texture.
CULTIVATION OF THE PANSY.
ET ATT EXHIBITII^'G A^HATEUR.
AYINGr been a grower many years, and a successful
exhibitor, I think that without presumption I may give
some of the results of my experience for the benefit of
those who may require it. Before going further, I would
have the novice in the culture of the pansy to understand
that a person may be a very successful grower, and yet be very
unsuccessful as a competitor. The plants may be ever so well grown,
but it requires one who thoroughly understands the properties of the
flower to make up a stand for competition ; there is also a great
knack in laying down a bloom ; it must be kept in mind that they
stand very "little handling, and that only of the most gentle descrip-
tion. The beginner should therefore direct his attention to both the
culture and the markings or properties of the flower.
To grow pansies in the open border, a piece of ground should be
selected well sheltered from high winds, but at the same time quite
open to the sun and air. If a crop of potatoes has just been taken
off, so much the better ; if the ground has been manured for the
previous crop, it will require nothing but digging ; if not, a little
rotted turf or very old stable manure should be added. The pansies
should be planted in rows, about one foot apart, and from eight to
ten inches apart in the rows. The end of September or beginning of
October is the proper time for planting to bloom in May or June ;
for the autumn exhibitions, they will require to be planted in April
or May, or even later, according to the climate or exposure. Just
before beginning to bloom, a top-dressing of leaf-mould or very old
manure will be beneficial ; liquid manure, especially if the least too
strong, is apt to cause the colours to run, and the blooms to come
flabby and rough-edged.
Cuttings should be struck whenever they can be got. Side-
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 145
sboots strike freely all the summer months, in a border on the north
side of a wall or hedge, using plenty of sharp sand. When not
required for exhibition, the plants should be cut over, and in a fe^
weeks there will be an abundance of offsets, some of which will be
nicely rooted plants ; those that are not rooted will strike much
faster than cuttings taken from the branches, and form much more
healthy plants.
The flower-buds ought to be taken off as fast as they appear, until
within about three weeks before the day of exhibition. For a few
days before the blooms are required they should be shaded with thin
cotton or other light fabric, being careful not to place the shading
too near the plants, or the colours will be bleached ; indeed, they
should be shaded as little as possible, and then only from bright sun-
shine or rain. Keep a sharp look-out for green-fly. It is perhaps
safer, however, to use precautionary measures : make a strong
infusion of tobacco, and with a piece of rag or sponge run a little of
it into the heart of each shoot. Repeat frequently, or until the
vermin disappear.
For exhibition purposes it is advisable to grow a number of plants
in pots ; they can be much more easily protected from weather and
vermin, and generally speaking the blooms are finer in quality.
There are some varieties it is of no use attempting to grow in pots,
as their colours almost invariably run. The plants should be put
into thumb-pots about the beginning of October, and plunged
in sand in a cold frame ; the sashes should not be used unless
during severe weather. Take the first opportunity after the middle
of January of shifting to eight or nine-inch pots. Soil, decayed turf
and leaf-mould in equal parts, with a little sand ; it ought to be
mixed in the beginning of winter, and thrown into a sharp ridge, in
order that it may get all the frost going. Plunge the pots about
half their depth in a frame amongst sand or sifted coal-ashes. Never
put on the sashes, except during hard frost or drenching rains, until
the last week before the exhibition, and not even then unless the
weather is wet and variable ; the sashes not to be nearer to the
plants than two feet, and allowing a free circulation of air all round
the sides.
Pansies in beds are easily protected from snails by putting pieces
of board on edge all round the beds, and occasionally give the boards
a touch along the outside with coal-tar ; the frames can be protected
in the same way. There is no way of preventing the ravages of the
wire-worm, or julus, but by hand-picking ; it causes considerable
trouble, but it is the only way to get rid of them.
VOL. ir. — NO. T. 10
146
SOME USES OF THE lYT.
BY KAEL PROSPEE.
HAVE not seen, during my residence in England, that
one of the most beauteous of evergreen shrubs is turned
to such account as might be in the decoration of the
garden. I was first reminded of the extreme value of
the ivy as a garden plant, by inspecting one of your
London gardens, the one called Islington Green, near to where the
Agricultural Hall is situate, and in which the compartments are all
maj'ked out with broad and rich edgings of the Heclera canariensis.
I said within myself, whoso planted this garden knew how to manage
in a place so much exposed to smoke and dust ; but when I learned
that Mr. Hibberd had superintended the planting, my surprise
ceased, and I said this is what we should expect, that one who writes
well should work well, though it is not a rule for such to be. The
beauty of the ivy there is peculiar to the spot. There are two most
ugly-shaped plots of land, they are irregular wedge-shaped and all
on one side, and to give them any pleasing character, great ingenuity
was required. "Well, their ugliness is softened down by the marking
out of great compartments in curves, and all are edged with ivy, so that
whichever way we look we see fine curves of dark green vegetation
set ofi" upon the light green of the grass — this directs our cogitations
to the uses of the ivies in gardens. Oh dear, what expense and
trouble some people incur to make edgings to their flower-beds, but
if they would plant the lovely silver-margined ivy about two feet
apart all round their beds, they would have bright and beauteous
edgings that would be scarcely less attractive in winter than in
summer, and with every year would be becoming better. ]S"ow, how
excellent would be this plan of planting in peaty, chalky, or sandy
soils, where the variegation of such superb kinds as Cullisii or the
i\e,'^ Japanese variegated ivy would come out true and strong. The
beauteous variety of Hedera canariensis, called aiirea mactdata, which
is richly variegated, a kind of greyish yellow, would make a most grand
edging to a broad ribbon border, and for any terrace or geometric
work where twelve inches breadth could be allowed it ; though if
only six inches wide it would be characteristic and efiective. Then
there are materials among the ivies for green edgings of many kinds.
In places w^here box will not grow, fine edgings of ivies may be made
by planting the common Hedera lielix or Hedera cana7^ie?isis one yard
apart, and then trimming and clipping the growth as required, A fine
edging may be made with the Taurican ivy, called Hedera helix
'Taurica, which is of small growth, with neat dark green glossy leaves.
To train ivies to edging is one of the easiest things in the world, and
as it will grow in any soil, they are plants adapted for all kinds of
garden. To name the best kinds seems to be needless, for all are good,
but at some few nurseries there is a great variety to be met with, and
my friend Mr. Hibberd, who has an extensive collection, will always
tell us of the best kinds for any particular purpose. I have seen a
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDElIf GUIDE. 147
great bed of rhododendrons surrounded with roses, and the whole
enclosed in a broad ring of ivy, looking quite grand in a garden.
Another good use for the ivy is to clothe banks that are shaded.
Here we may have great sheets of such a kind as the variegated
Hedera canariensis, and the poorer the soil for it the better the
colour of the variegation. So again, many barren places under trees
in gardens could be made beautiful by clothing them with ivy ; the
merest scraps inserted any time during summer would take root and
in due time spread into rich masses of dark green vegetation.
But the most interesting of all the uses of the ivies is to furnish
the garden in winter. For this purpose they are grown in pots, and
are placed where required when the proper time comes. One of our
best friends has brought this system of using them to perfection,
and it is impossible to see the plants and not feel that a quite new
epoch in horticulture is inaugurated therein.
All the small-leaved ivies are well adapted for growing in close
glass cases. They bear the confinement admirably, and are most
easy to train if the mechanical means of training are provided, such
as wires, etc. I do not hesitate to say that the common Hedera helix
(that is, the wild ivy of the English woods) is one of the most elegant
plants ever seen when grown in closed cases, and is well adapted to
increase the interest of a collection of ferns. In some town localities
double windows are formed to exclude dust and subdue the summer
heat. Sometimes ferns are planted in those windows, and they
perish. A¥ell, if such be the case, the owner need only plant com-
mon wild ivy, and very soon the window will become a rich green
screen, the delight ofall who behold it.
It is well known that ivy is one of the best of plants for walls, but
it is not every ivy-clad wall that is a credit to its owner. Certainly,
to keep a wall well covered is worthy of the little care and expense
required. The climbing varieties of variegated ivies make superb
coverings for walls, especially the very distinct and constant Hedera
canariensis maculata. Amateurs would find much amusement in col-
lecting the variegated and other ivies, and planting them to climb up
walls, and rock-work, and about trellises, arbours, and stumps of
trees.
IMPATIENS JEEDONI-^.
[•HIS splendid plant is usually described as an annual,
but it is a perennial, and may be grown for any number
of years. I will give you an account of one that was
in my care. The plant was bought at a sale in the
autumn of 1860, and was then two years old, and
nearly a foot in diameter ; its lower branches rested on the soil,
and were rooted in the same manner as layers ; it was kept dry all
winter, only watered when it show^ed signs of shrinking from being
kept dry ; as soon as it began to grow in spring, 1801, it was top-
dressed with leaf-mould, and placed gradually at the warmest end of
148 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
the stove, and syringed twice a day and watered copiously, and
with tepid h'quid manure twice a week after being fairly started.
It was exhibited in collections of stove and greenhouse plants at
Bath, Bristol, and Cheltenham, a perfect mass of bloom. I stripped
it of all expanded flowers after each show ; as soon as it became full
of flower again, it was taken from the stove to an intermediate
house, thence to the greenhouse, free from draught ; and a few days
before exhibiting I placed it out of doors in full daylight for a few
hours each day ; by this means the colours were much more brilliant
and intensified ; it was gradually dried off", and survived the
winters of 1860-1-2. In the spring of 18G2 I gave it a large
shift, in equal parts of peat, leaf-mould, and silver sand, with a good
depth of crocks for drainage. This plant of all others is the most
brittle ; its branches bearing over the brim of the pot, I found it
impossible to knock it out in the ordinary way ; therefore I pro-
ceeded to shift it as follows : having placed two bricks a few inches
apart, the pot was placed on them, and cracked all round with a
hammer and removed piecemeal ; then two strong pieces of bass
were placed between the bricks under the ball, and it was lifted by
the pieces of bass and lowered into its place (in the same manner as
a coflln is lowered). When I left it in June, 1862, it was eighteen
inches in diameter. The best way to make a good plant in a short
time is as follows: — "When the old plant begins to push, take off
pieces about three inches long and lay them on the top of a pan or
pot filled with a sandy mixture ; they must be laid on the top and
gently pressed, as vine eyes are done ; they will soon root all along
the under surface, and throw up many shoots on the upper ; by the
autumu they are nice stocky plants. The following spring they
should be shifted without separating, and will make good plants for
show by autumn. I have always found young plants to bear the
largest flowers. Nothing can be more efl'ective than this plant is for
exhibition ; its quaint-looking flowers, of rich vermilion, green and
yellow, contrasted with its dark stems, and leaves of a purplish-
green, make it one of the very best for a conspicuous place in the
front rank, where it is sure to be mobbed. Its culture is most
simple ; but if watered much during winter, that is almost certain
death to it. In June, 1861, I planted out two plants in the open
ground ; they flowered profusely. Aisr Ex-Exhibitoe.
CULTIYATIOX OF THE MUSHEOOM.
[HE bed should be made with fresh warm stable-dung,
mixed with at least one-fourth of vegetable mould from
decayed tree leaves, or with the same quantity of well-
rotted cow-dung. Then throw it up into a heap, well
mixing it in the process, and let it lay for a week or a
fortnight to let the burning steam and heat pass off", so that the
whole may become mellow, and of an equal temperature, in which
state it is in readiness for making the bed.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 149
In making the bed, either on the shelves or floor of the mush-
room-house, take some long litter from the dung-heap, and lay at
the bottom ; then let the prepared dung be put on in layers to the
depth of two feet, being well beaten down as the process goes on.
"When the bed is made, it is proper to have two or more trying
sticks thrust down in different parts to draw up occasionally, in
order to ascertain the heat. After the vehement heat has subsided,
and the bed is lowered to a very moderate or mild heat, then, and
not before, put in the spawn, previously breaking the large lumps
into moderately small pieces, and planting it into the dung at one
foot apart. Then take the earth of previously made exhausted beds,
and scatter it all over the surface ; it will answer two purposes.
When the spawn begins to run, cover the bed with strong rich
earth mixed with a little cow-dung, and, after it is finally earthed
over, let the surface be smoothed, and well beaten with the back of
a spade ; two inches of earth is quite sufScient.
In making mushroom beds out of doors, take a sufficient quantity
of dung prepared as already directed, and with it make the bed in
the form of a ridge, four or five feet wide at bottom, and three or
four feet high, gradually narrowed to the top. The process of
making the bed is the same as that described in the mushroom-
house. It should be made in a dry sheltered situation, and on level
ground, in preference to making the lower part in a trench, in order
to have the opportunity of spawning it quite to the bottom, and
also that water may not settle in that part to check the heat ; mark
out the proper width and intended length, and then commencing
at the bottom part by a layer of prepared dung, as before observed.
Begin at one end, and work up the sides equally in a gradually
sloping manner, and forming the ends nearly in the same proportion.
Observe to put in the spawn as before directed, for the heat should
be only sufficient to set the spawn in vegetative motion, so as to
extend its fibres into the dung and earth ; and this degree of heat
should continue for some considerable time in a moderate growing
manner, to promote and forward the knotting of the mushrooms.
When the bed is spawned, and earthed over, it may be directly
covered with a good thickness of dry straw, and an external coating
of mats, pegged down at each side of the bed.
As the mushroom is subject to the attacks of insects during the
summer months, it is necessary here to add that the only means of
keeping aw^ay the enemy is by putting a layer of coal ashes beneath
the bed, and mixing a little soot with the covering of earth. In
watering, make holes one foot apart in the bed, and fill each hole as
the bed becomes dry.
To keep up a succession throughout the season, take this as a
rule : — As soon as mushrooms appear on one bed, make the pre-
parations for another. The temperature of the mushroom-house
may be kept from 40' to 60\ In a month or six weeks after spawn-
ing, if the bed works kindly, it will produce mushrooms ; and, if
kept in good order, it will continue in bearing for several months.
In examining the beds out of doors, or when gathering the
produce, turn off the straw covering very carefully ; and, as the
150 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
advauciDg mushrooms will generally appear in several different
stages of growth, gather those only that are of a proper age — that
is, before they become large and expanded, and generally while they
remain compact and firm ; detach them by a gentle twist close to
the root, but do not cut them out, or leave the stumps in the bed,
for they bring on the rot, and become maggoty and iufectious to the
succeediug young crop, which are advancing in successional growth.
Always, as soon as the gathering is finished, cover the bed again
directly witli the straw litter, especially in cold, wet weather ; at
any rate it should never remain long uncovered ; but only occa-
sionally on dry warm days. If the earth has by any means become
very damp, tlie covering may remain ofl" two or three hours, suffi-
cient to dry the surface ; but it should be covered again as soon as
possible.
CULTUEE OF THE PELAEGOXIUM.
BY J. KIEKE.
[HE Pelargonium is well-known to be the gem of florists'
flowers, and is in the present day brought to great per-
fection, yet I cannot but regret to see so many of our
large growers so reserved and backward in bringing
their modes of cultivation before the public. In taking
up the above subject, I will make a few remarks on its cultivation,
but will not confine myself to growing for exhibition purposes. My
object is to obtain ornamental plants fit for adorning the conserva-
tory and like purposes. My experience for ten years has given me
good opportunities forjudging the most successful mode of cultivat-
ing the pelargonium, and by repeated changes of treatment I
have detected many things which are practically used in its cultiva-
tion, and proved them to be detrimental to the general welfare of
the plant.
I will commence first with the cuttings, which should be taken
off" well-ripened plants at the latter end of June or early in July,
allowing two eyes to each cutting, I then prepare some 48-sized
pots half-full of crocks, with a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and
river-sand, a third of each ingredient. In each pot I put a dozen
cuttings, then choose a half-spent dung-bed for them, keeping them
"well shaded from sun, allowing a pretty moist atmosphere not exceed-
ing 70". Give air sparingly when beginning to root, and increase it
according to their progress of rooting. Pot oflf into small GO's when
ready, and the situation I prefer for them at this stage is a low brick
pit with a little top heat ; in such a place they wiU establish them-
selves, and do well.
The stopping should be the next point to consider, which should
be done early to keep them near the pot ; they will then break, and
should be allowed to make about four shoots, which will be sufficient
for^ a 4S-sized pot, in consideration of having good blooms. They
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. lol
should now be watched minutely for a week or so, in order to get them
all stopped pretty even, and as they make a little growth should be
hardened off, and as soon as possible take off the lights, for the
hardier you get them the better they will stand the winter. For
early flowering, a fe^ of the best may be potted about September,
and placed on a dry stage, and keep them gently growing all winter ;
but those intended for flowering in May or June should be kept dry
in the pit above mentioned, watering very sparingly, and shift into
48's in February ; for tliis shift I prefer two-fourths good loam, one
of leaf-mould, and one-fourth of rotten dung, with a good sprinkling
of river-sand.
As soon as the shifting is done, should the weather be dull, a
little forcing should be given them, but give air on every favourable
opportunity, and as the weather gets warmer every day will tell
upon them, for they Avill grow rapidly. Smoking and cleaning
should be well attended to, and if any stopping is required it should
be done at once. If a few plants be required for later blooming,
they may be shifted into 82's, and in this case must be stopped
again. By April the plants should be pretty strong, and will begin
to take water freely, and a little weak liquid manure may be given
them once a week, and the syringe may be used sometimes on fine
sunny mornings. I have no doubt I shall meet wath a good deal of
ditierence of opinion about the use of the syringe, for it is the idea
of a good many growers that it tends to bring damp, spot, and other
diseases. But as I never found such diseases among my plants, I
have no inclination to alter my views ; and my opinion is, where
such diseases do exist, it is caused by irregular watering or bad
drainage.
Sticking and tying should be the next point to consider, which
should be done as they throw up their buds, and give water freely,
for at this season the pelargonium will keep its foliage and have a
better appearance by an abundant supply of water than it would by
allowing it to frequently get dry. Be careful how you apply liquid
manure, for if given too strong it would soon put them in a sickly
state ; and as the flowers open, liquid manure may be discontinued
altogether, for the plants will set their blooms and afterwards ripen
their wood better without it; in fact, if it continued until the plants
are cut down, it is a question of doubt whether the cuttings would
strike.
As your plants cease flowering, they should be stood out in the
open air to get well ripened, and should be cut down and kept dry,
with a sprinkling overhead occasionally. In the operation of cutting
down, three eyes should be left, from each of which it will break, for
nothing is got by cutting too near the stem, and very often the death
of your favourites may be attributed to no other cause. Six weeks
is long enough for the plants to break and make a nice growth, and
they should then be shaken out and repotted into smaller pots,
taking care to well trim in the roots. Stand them out on a bed of
ashes, to keep all worms out of the pots, and the growth they make
will be of a hardy and strong nature, and they will better endure
being kept close in the winter months. "When the time for housing
152 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
arrives, they should have a dry stage, and should be repotted into
larger pots in February.
In concluding my few remarks I must say a great deal has been
said and written on the pelargonium, but the secret is very much the
same as with most other flowers, for there should be strict attention
in all plant-growing, and this in conjunction with the above direc-
tions would produce ornamental plants, and adapted for any purpose.
Perhaps I may venture to give a short list of the names of those
which I consider the best for general purposes : — Hose Celestial,
Glowworm, Empress Eugenie, ^jax, Symmetry, The Bride, Vestal,
Madame Pescatore. Madame Place, Madame Van Houtte, Geant des
Batailles, Larkfield Eival, Desdemona, Blink Bonny, Kiehard Ben-
yon, and Eoyal White — the last-mentioned one being a seedling*fi:om
the superb collection of Mr. Bruce, of the Richmond Eoad Nursery ;
petals large, beautiful shape, with a dark spot on upper petals, and
an abundant bloomer ; it is decidedly the best of its class, and richly
merits a place in every collection.
SELECT BEDDING COMBINATIONS.
A TEW CIECULAE BEDS.
ENTRE of Geranium Rose Rendatler, or Eeaufe de Suresnes ; band of
Calceolaria angustifolia ; margin of Flower of the Day Geranium.
Centre, a specimen tree, such as Standard Portugal Laurel, Arau-
caria imbricata, etc.; solid blocks of Lobelia speciosa, or Lobelia Blue
King, edged with Cerastium tomentosum. This is an effective mode of
planting circles in which specimen trees are planted, near promenades, walks, etc.;
bat it needs, of course, that the circles should be separated by oblongs of scarlet,
yellow, etc., etc.
Cefitre, vase, sun-dial, or tree causing little shade; circle of gi'ass, or Litho-
spermum fruticosum, or some dwarf green plant ; then, circles of Geranium Stella,
Geranium Christine, and margin of Geranium Bijou. This arrangement, like the
first, admits of variation ad infinitum ; the principle being to separate the central
object from the colours by a green band, and then to follow with narrow circles of
strong colours, and add a bold edging.
Centre of Centaurea gymnocarpa ; and broad band of Amaranthus melan-
cholicus.
Centre, vase, statue, or sun-dial ; circle of Spergula pilifera; next, circle of
Geranium Flower of Spring, Rose Queen, C} bister, and Christine.
Centre, vase or tree ; green space surrounding it to be omitted, and filled instead
with Geranium Oriana, or Lady Palmerston ; next, Calceolaria canariensis ;' and
outside, a band of Amaranthus melancholicus.
Centre of Amaranthus melancholicus ; broad band of Cineraria maritiraa ; nar-
row margin of Lobelia speciosa. The last two arrangements are suitable for small
beds ; we now suggest a few modes of planting oblongs.
Centre, block of Geranium Crystal Palace; broad band of Chrictine ; broad
margin of Yerl)ena Purple King. This is bold and brilliant, and very effective on a
terrace, if repeated throughout one of the levels, and a neutral circle between every
two oblongs ; or if a very strong eflfect is desired, circles of grey and yellow to alter-
nate with them.
Centre, block of Stella ; narrow band of Minnie ; margin of Purple King Ver-
bena. Like the last, this is full of power, aad may be dealt with in the same way
as to relief, etc.
Large block of Tropseolum Tom Thumb ; margin of Lobelia speciosa.
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 153
Large block of Geranium Flower of the Day; broad margin of Lobelia
speciosa.
Large block of Geranium Beauty of Blackheath ; broad band of Lobelia
speciosa.
Large block of Calceolaria Gem ; broad margin of Lobelia Paxtoniana.
Large block of Crystal Palace Geranium ; narrow band of Calceolaria aurea
floribunda ; margin of Geranium Flower of the Day. This is a suitable style for
beds forming the outer parts of a design. If a pink Geranium is substituted for the
scarlet, there will be a gain of light, and a proportionate enlargement of the space.
Centre, block of Calceolaria Gaines's yellow ; broad band of Geranium Attrac-
tion ; margin of Lobelia speciosa. This is a good three-coloured mass to stand
alone. It is less effective when in combination with other masses.
CHAIN PATTERNS.
* These are formed by connecting oblongs and circles together by short links, or
miniature ribands. They aie most appropriate on the margin of spacious lawns,
where the surroundinjs are all of an elegant kind, and in harmony with the Italian
style of terrace embellishment. The planting of chain patterns must behold and
brilliant. Let us suppose we have a series of large elliptic beds, and intermediate
small circular beds, connected together with links ; then it will be in good taste to
plant the circles with pink Ivy-leaf Geranium in the centre, and the ellipsis with
scarlet Geranium in the centre ; then, to surround the two central masses v/ith
Geranium Cloth of Gold, and to form the links and margins of all the beds 'of varie-
gated Alyssum.
Another good chain may be produced as follows : — a large oval, a link, a small
circle, a link, another small circle, a link, a large oval, and so on throughout. Then
let the ovals have centres of Tom Thumb Geranium, and the circles have centres
of Christine Geranium. Surround the Scarlet Geranium, and tbe pink Geranium,
with Calceolaria aurantia ; and edge all the beds, and form the links with variegated
Alyssum.
MIXTURES.
Geranium Cloth of Gold, and Lobelia speciosa, plant and plant, edged with
Lobelia Paxtoniana, is a most beautiful mixture.
Perilla and Cineraria has a mournful — indeed, funeral aspect ; yet is beautiful,
and very distinct indeed from all ordinary modes of colouring.
Geranium Silver Chain, and Lobelia speciosa, plant and plant, with edging of
Amaranth us, is both novel and eflfective.
Iresine Herbstii and Centaurea gymnocarpa, or Coleus Verschaffelti, and Cine-
raria maritima, plant and plant, with edgings of Cloth of Gold, not allowed to flower,
is rich, novel, and peculiar.
Verbena Melindres, mixed with Geranium Silver Queen, and edged with Golden
Ivy-leaved Geranium, or Verbena Melindres, mixed with Lady Plymouth Geranium,
makes a good match to the last. The edging to be the same.
Amaranthus melancholicus, and Centaurea ragusina, edged with Lobelia spe-
ciosa; remarkably rich and classical.
Geranium Flower of the Day, and variegated Alyssum, mixed plant and plant,
edged with Geranium Firebrand, produces a glittering effect ; scarcely bearable
to the eye when the sun shines, and a surprise to any who have not seen it
before,
Delphinium formosum to be planted in rows, fifteen inches apart, and to be
pegged down, so that the flowers and leaves will rise only eighteen inches high, as
early in the season as the weather will permit; strong plants, full of bloom, of
Geranium Tom Thumb to be planted between the Delphinium. For a considerable
time this Avill be a grand combination of blue and scarlet ; when the Delphinium
is over, the Geraniums will spread, and make a fine self-bed of scarlet. Any grey
edging will suit for this.
154
SNCER-POST FOR PDRCHASEBS
©F Pimn, SEEDS, ETC.
A SELECTION OF GERANIUMS (ZOX.ITE
PELARGONIOIS) FOR VARIOUS PUR-
POSES.
Fifty cheap hut superb varieties for a small
i^-^^^ collection^ comprising all the colours. — Adonis,
^^ Anceiina Griseau, Amy Hogg, Andrew Marvel,
Beaute de Suresnes, Biack Dwarf, Cbiefrain,
P ' Christine, Commissioner, Coquette de Rneil,
^^^ Cvbister, Dr. Lindley, Eugenie Mtzard, Excellent,
Faust, Eerald of Spring, Jules Cfesar, Lady Middleton, Ma-
dame Xinette;^Sachero, Le Prophete, Lord of the Isles, Madame Barre,
Madame Taucber, Madame Werle, Magna Cbarta, Monsieur G.Xatcbet,
Omement des Massifs, Pacquita, Rival Stella, P.ose Rendatler, Le Grand,
Stella, The Clipper, Triomphe de Gergoviat, Yirgo Marie, White Perfection.
Ticelve Zonate Bedders. — Boule de Feu, Black Dwarf, Christine, Cvbister,
Rebecca, H. W. Longfeuow, TVilisidre Lass, Kate Anderson, Lady Cullum, Indian
Yello-w, Stella. The true Bouie de Feu is far superior to Attraction, and distinct
from it, and from several other varieties with which it has been confounded.
Ticelve Silver Variegates for Beds. — Alma, Flower of Spring*, Queen of
Queens*, SLlver Chain, Yariegaied Xosegay, Variegated Stella, Lady Plymouth*,
United Italy, Flower of the Day, Bijou, Jane, Little Beauty, Manglesii*.
Six Gold Variegated for 'Beds.—Cioxh of Gold*, Gold Leaf,* Luna,* Golden
Vase, Mrs. Pollock, Gx)lden Tom Thumb.
Ttcelre very select {for pots). — Dr. Lindley, Tintoret*, Chieftain*, Hibberd's
May Queen*, White Perfection, Charles Reust, Madlle. Marie Mezard*, Fair Eosa-
mond, Bronze Shield, The Countess*. Yellow Belt*. Mrs. Benyon.
Geraniums {Best of 1S67). — Christine nosegay, ros^ pink ; Crimson Queen,
deep crimson ; Glory of Waltham, scarlet ; Hector, scarlet ; Hon. Mary Ward,
white shaded salmon-flesh ; Imperii:!, scarlet; International, beats Black Dwarf;
L'Africaine, ptirp.ish-crimson : Lilacina, dark lilac ; Mr. James Crute, crimson ;
Itrs. Laing, crimson-scarlet ; Mrs. Spencer, salmon ; Orion, rosy salmon ; Ossian,
crimson flowers and yellow leaves ; Pink Globe, rosy pink ; Queen of Denmark,
deep pink; Eosy Circle, white, salmon, and rose ; Souvenir de Sir J. Paxton (Gor-
don), rosy pink ; Lady Constance Grosvenor, orange scarlet ; Duchess of Sutherland,
rosy ptirple ; Shirley Hibberd, red with violet shade ; Warrior, scarlet.
Variegated. — Bronze Queen, Beauty of Surrey, Crystal Palace Gem, Edward
George Henderson, Gipsey Queen, Glory of Dulwicb, Jetty Lucy, King of Tricolors,
L'Elegant, Little Fairy, Mrs. Charles Barry, Pet of the Parterre, Princess Alexandra,
Queen of the Fairies, Queen of Tricolors, Souvenir de Sir Joseph Paxton, Wonderful.
A SELECTION OF PANSIES.
Those hest adapted for a small collection marked thus.* The selection was made
during an inspection of the stock of Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing.
Selfa. — Alexander Tait*, Cherub, Dux, Eclat*, James Fargie, Masterpiece*,
Miss Carnegie, Miss Muir*, Queen of Whites*, Eev. John Smith, Vesta, Yellow
Queen*, Alex- M'Xab, Amphion, Jessie, Ladyburn Beauty, Mr. J. Graham, Bessie,
Cream of the Valley*.
Yellow grounds. — Alex. Whamond*, Arcturus, Czar, Francis Low*, George
"Wilson, John Elston*, John Downie*, Mrs. Downie, Mrs. Wyliie*, Prince of Wales,
"William Austin, John Inglis, J. B. Downie*. Lina, E. W. E. Bamsay, General
Young, Mrs. Hope. Perfection, Saturn, William Dean, Thomas Martin.
White grounds. — Attraction, Countess of Rosslyn*, Great Northern, Lavinia*,
Miss M. Carnegie,. Miss Williamson*, Mrs. Mofi'att*, Mrs. Laird*, Naomi, Princess of
Wales*, Queen*, Victoria, Mary Lamb, Mrs. Hopkins, Nymph, Miss E. Cochran,
Lady Lucy Dundas*.
THE FLORAT. WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. lo5
Fancy Payisies. — Belle Esquermoise, Belle Lilleoise, Black Prince*, Caffra, DIs-
tinctioD, Etoile da Xord, Figaro*, Earl of Eosslyn*, Imperatrice Eugenie, Lady
Montgomery*, Lady Christian Maule, John MXab*, Magnificent*, Michael Ange,
Miracle*, Mrs. R. Dean*, Mrs. H. X.jrthco:e*, Mulatto, Macaroni*, Xoemi Demay,
Oriana*, Punch, Princess Alice, Sensation*.
A SELECTION OF VERBENAS.
riFTT TAKTETIES rOK POT CrLTOlE.
Alexandra, Annie, Antonia, Ariosto Improved, Attraction, Beauty of England,
Black Diamond, Black Prince, Blanche of Castile, Brunette, Charles *Perry, Charles
Turner, Cherry Ripe, Cleopatra, Deiicata, Duke of Cambridge, Edward Barnes,
Foxhunter, Geant des Batailles, Gladiatcr, John Keynes, King Charming, King of
Lilacs, King of Scarlets, King of Verbenas, Lady June Ellis, La Grande Eoule de
Neige, Leah, Lselia, L'Avenir de Ballant, Lord Craven, Lord Leigh, Madame Cointec
Aine, Madame Hermann Stenger, Marie Rendatler, Mauve Queen, Minerva, Mrs.
Dean, Mrs. Elphinstone, Nemesis, Ocean Pearl, Pallavicini di Brescia, Peep o'Day,
Queen of England, Shakespeare, Triomphe de Massifs, ^arrior,^ TVhite Queen, WH-
liam Dean, TTonderful.
THERTY BEST TAEXETIZS TOR BEES.
Best marked thus *.
7r>^?7(?.— Blanche of Castile*. La Grande Boule ce Neige*, ^Vhite Qr.een.
Rose and P/«^-.— Long Looked For, Laura, M:rs. Elphinstone*, Ariosto Im-
proved*, Cicely, Leah, Vencsa.
Cnwj-son.— Attraction, Crimson King, Fire Brigade* (these two are much alike ;
the first is best for good soils and siniations, the second for bad positions, especially
if poor and drv). Brilliant de Vaisse*.
Scarlet.— L016. Clifden-, Mrs. Woodrofi'e, Startler, Scarlet Cushion*, Melindres.
Yelloic. — Junius, fiery orange*, Orange Perfection, orange pink, lemon eye.
Lilac. — King of the Lilacs, Napoleon Rossi, Lselia, Lady Leigh*.
^/h^.— Celestial Blue*, Blue Sbade, Azurea superba, Madlie. Marie Rendatler.
PMrj7^.— Ocean Pearl*, Purple King*.
A SELECTION OF PELARGONTCMS FOR EXHIBITION AND DECORATION.
Best Thirty for 5/^oic.— Achille. Arden=, Beacon, Beadsman, Candidate, Caliban,
Conflagration, Fairest of the Fair*, De:^demona*, Empress Eugenie, Garibaldi*,
Golden Hue, Fair Rosamond, Jewess, John Hoyle, Lady Canning, Liiacina, Madlle.
Patti, Lord Clyde, Nestor, Osiris*, Pericles', P.acock*, Rose Celestial, Rosemn,
Spotted Gem, Sanspareii, Sir Colin Campbell, The Bride, Viola*.
Best Twenty-four Jan«>5.— Arabella Goddard*, Celestial, Clara Novello* Cloth
of Silver*, Clytie, Crystal Beauty, Countess of Waldegrave, Delicatum, Edith. Ellen
Beck, Evening' Star, G'odfrey Turner, Lady Craven, Lady Boston, Lucy, Lady Towere,
Maroon*, Marionette*, Modestura, Miss in her Teens, Queen of Roses, Roi des Fan-
taisies, The Rover, Undine*.
Best of 1867.— Alfred, Brilliant, Favourite, International, King of Flowers,
Lord Lyon, Milton, Model, Rustic. Fancies : Duchess of Buccleugh, Liberty,
Memnon, Miss Louisa Pyne, Princess Helena, Sylvia.
A SELECTION OF CARNATIONS, PICOTEES, AND PINKS.
CAEXATIOXS.
Scarlet Bizarres.—I)n\.e of York, Oliver Goldsmith, and Prince Albert.
Crimson Bizarres.—Alh\on, Indispensable, and King of Carnations.
Pink and Purple 5»;arre.y.— Lady of the Lake and Twyford Perfection.
Purple Flal-es.—Beantj of Wood house. Colonel Smith, Earl Stamford, Mayor of
Oldham, and Mayor of Nottingham.
Scarlet Flakes. — Afiricana, Meteor, and William IV.
Pose Flakes. — Aglaia, Miss Napier, Mr. Martin, and Samuel Moreton.
PIC'iTZES.
Eed Fdffed.—FoTeiieT, Garibaldi, Lauretta, Mrs, Lockner, Prince Albert,
Sparkler, and William Summers.
156
THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Purple Edged. — Advance, Amy Robsart, Emma, Favourite, Margaret, Mrs.
May, and Eev. George Jeans.
Rose and Scarlet Edged. — Elizabeth, Miss Sewell, Princess Alice, Flower of the
Day, Miss Williams, and Scarlet Queen.
PINKS.
A^nes, Attraction, Bertram, Constance, Dr. Maclean, Excellent, Jessica, Little
Gem, Mary Ann, President, Annie, Beauty, Blondin, Device, Ernest, Helen, John
Ball, Lord Charles Wellesley, Minnie, and Victory.
NEW PLANTS.
ASTRONEMA SANQUINEUM, Blood-coloured Gastronema {Vlllust.
Hort.t. 5011). — Amaryllidaceas. This is a fine plant belonging to the
Cyrtanthus section of Amaryllis. It is a native of South Africa, and one
of the many valuable introductions of Messrs. Backhouse and Son, of
York. The bulb is oval, the leaves linear, or linear-lanceolate, the
flowers bright vermillion, with gold yellow throat.
Makanta roseo-picta, JRosy-painted Maranta {Vllhist. Sort. t. 508). —
Marantacese. It is not yet quite certain whether this plant is a Maranta, but it is
certain that it is most beautifully variegated, the orbicular leaves being of a deep
green, with rosy or carmine midrib, and crescentic lines near the margin j the
young leaves are brilliant yellow and carmine.
Camellia Constamin Tretiakoff {Vlllust. Sort. t. 509). — A superb variety,
the flowers of great size, beautifully modelled, the colour blush warming into delicate
pink at the base of each petal.
HELICOIfIA HrillLIS.
HELIOTBOPICir COXVOLVULACEUM.
Heliconia humilis, Dwarf Seliconia {Bot. Mag. t. 5613). — Musacese. A
magnificent stove plant, with leaves all radical, and measuring with their petioles
three to five feet in length. The inflorescence is a scape bearing about four
distichous spathes of a brilliant scarlet colour, in which are enclosed a number of
yellowish flowers.
Heliotropium convolvulaceum, Convolvidar-flowered Sellotrepe {Bot. Mag.
t. 5615). — Boraginete. A beautiful American annual, grown by Mr. Thompson, of
Ipswich. The flowers are abundantly produced ; they are salver-shaped, white, and
delightfully odorous.
157
GARDEN GUIDE FOR MAY.
Kitchen Garden. — It has been a dreadful seed-time, and all sorts of things are
in arrear. The best advice we can give to tliose who have not yet sown all their
spring seeds, is to sow at once. Several good things should also be sown now for
succession, where things are going on well, such as a few peas, beans, spinach, and.
ijaladings. The best peas to sow now are Veitch's Perfection, Ne plus Ultra, Mam-
moth Marrow, and Stuart and Mein's Prince. Lettuces should be sown now on
heavily manured ground, where they are to remain, and they will be good, but if
transplanted, they will be no good. Sow also kidney-beans, and if not provided
with marrow plants, prepare the hillocks, and sow the seed upon them. It is
better, however, to turn out thrifty plants from pots on to beds five feet wide, made
with a foot depth or more of rotten dung, and six inches of good loam on the dung.
This mode ensures a gentle warmth to start the plants, and the beds answer well
for sea-kale, asparagus, or onions the following season. Another pinch of Walcheren
broccoli should be sown. All winter greens should be forward by this time, and
ready for thinning out, to make plantations of the forwardest.
Flotver Garden. — The principal business now is bedding out. It is most impor-
tant to have the plants well hardened first by careful exposure to the weather, at
first by day only, and in the end by night as well. Choose dull dry weather for
bedding, if possible, and have the plants rather dry, for if recently watered, they do
not turn out nicely. Ttie Japanese striped maize, the various new sorghums, and
andropogons may be sown now to figure as ornamental grasses ; but we cannot
advise any one to grow them in the expectation of eating bread made from their
seeds. As for the maize, it is a splendid thing, and a shilling packet of seed sown
on the first of May will do as well as ten shillings' worth of plants bought in
from a nursery. But those who want plants may obtain them true from Messrs.
Carter and Co.
Fruit Garden. — The quality of every kind of fruit is improved by early thinning
the crop, and mulching the ground with half rotten dung.
Greenhouse. — Green-fly will be found on many plants, and, generally speaking,
the plants infested will now do better out of doors than imder glass, and the fly
will disappear soon after they are put out. If it is not advisable to put them out,
shut up and fumigate, having everything quite dry at the time ; syringe well next
morning.
*#* Past issues of the Floral "World contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons the *' Garden Guide " will be on a contracted scale this year.
jstews of the moxth.
The Paris Exhibition was opened without ceremony on the 1st of April,
though then, as now, in a most unfinished state. But with all its imperfections, with
all its attempt to grasp more than seems possible, it is a much grander and certainly
a more complete aff'iiir than it has been represented. In the park and the horticul-
tural ground there are more things for English gardeners to see and admire than
they can reasonably expect to be again brought together during the term of the
present generation. More especially worthy of notice are the trained fruit-trees,
of which there are innumerable examples, exemplifying the perfection the French
cultivators have attained in this department. Lakes, fountains, rockeries, aquaria,
and conservatories, are features now full of attractions and the inner garden, which
is as an oasis to the visitor wearied with inspection of the courts, is now being
planted with the most brilliant bedding and sub-tropical plants. It is the first time
that horticulture has been represented at a great international exhibition, and it is
being so extensively represented at Paris, that we advise our readers generally to
provide, in their programmes of pleasure for the present season, one trip to Paris at
least.
Exhibitions in London. — It is with great pleasure we record a successfiil
experiment by the East London Amateurs' Society, in the holding of an exhibition
158 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
of sprinor flowers, which took place on the 6th of April, in the Vestry Hall, at
Bow, This is the first time that a small local society has attempted anything of the
kind, and it was the more satisfactory that the exhibition, besides being novel, was
good. Hyacinths, Tulips, Dielytras, Auriculas, Narcissus, Cinerarias, Cytisus,
Primulas, Cyclamens, and Geraniums, were shown in plenty, and in excellent con-
dition. The most successful exhibitors were Messrs. Grove, Howard, Deacon, Sin-
clair, Grace, Cheshire, and Hardy. Air. Prestoe, superintendent of Victoria Park,
put up a fine collection of CaUdiums, Dracaenas, and other plants of fine character.
Mr. Forsyth, of Brunswick Nursery, Stoke Newington, presented a collection of
Cinerarias and Hyacinths, that were eminently effective ; Mr. Allen, of Norfolk
Nursery, Shacklewell, made an exhibition of tree ferns, miscellaneous plants, and
cut flowers, most tastefully displayed.
The most important of the great shows, was that held at the Regent's Pabk,
on April 13. On that occasion Azaleas were superbly shown by Mr. Turner,
Messrs. Lane and Son, Mr. J3. S. AVilliams, and others. Pot roses from Mr.
William Paul, and Messrs. Paul and Son, were superb, and included examples of the
following : — Prince de Sortia, Anna Alexieff, Madlle. Berthe Leveque, Senateur
Vaisse, Madame Roussett, Centifolia R:sea, Marquis de Foucault, President Mas,
Fisher Holmes, Madame Boll, Madame Fillinn, Celine Forestier, Madame Hoste,
Madame Damaizin, Alba Mutabilis, Bernard Palissy, and Glory of "Waltham. One
of the most interesting features of the show was a batch of that most charming of
hardy herbaceous plants, Spirea Japonica, sent by Mr. Bartlett, of Hammersmith.
The plants were in 48-sized pots, with heads of leaves about a foot across, above
which were three or four spikes to each plant of their exquisitely beautiful snow-
white flowers. Not many novelties were shown, and amongst them there were
none of any great importance.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Ground Vineries.— /S'^^Ziucr will find in the Floral "World of April, 1866, a
practical description, accompanied with a figure, of Wells's ground vineries.
Stove for Plant-house. — M. N. — You will find Hays's constant stove the
cheapest, cleanest, most simple and certain thing of the kind you can have to keep
the frost out of a house, measuring 17 feet by 10 feet. The other stove is more
powerful, hut, all things considered, less desirable, at least in your case.
Greenhouse Construction. — S. N.—l. A lean-to facing south will be best for
most purposes, especially grapes, geraniums, succulents, and for pushing on odd
things to plant out. A lean-to facing west will be useful, and better than a south
aspect if you grow ferns, camellias, and azaleas in it. 2. An east aspect is to be
preferred for subjects that flower in spring, but a west aspect is best as a mere pre-
servatory, because warmer than east. 3 is answered in 2. 4. A flue need rise only a few
inches in a run of 24 feet ; if no rise at all no matter, as the chimney at the further
end will secure draught, and the taller the chimney the better the draught. The
flue need only be carried along one side, but as the house is small, it may be taken
all round, so as to have the chimney over the furnace ; in which case it must rise a
little all the way. A flue all round will consume more fuel and give more heat than
one through only. 5. We have known hundreds of span-roofed houses heated by
flu3s ; why, only a few years ago, all houses %vere so heated. 6. No, we avoid
prices as much as possible ; what is cheap in one place is dear in another. Ask
a tradesman in your district. 7- What you think is wrong. A Paxton house is the
best house any ine can have, and for almost any purpose. 8. No.
Variegated Conifers.— TT. B. ^.— The great difficulty with these is the pro-
pagation. Two years ago a superbly variegated Araucaria imbricata was exhibited
at Regent's Park, but has not since been heard of; the difficulty was in multiplying
it. There are many variegated varieties of Thuia, Cupressus, Retinospora, and
Juniperus in cultivation, but these can be multiplied by cuttings ; so when a sport
occurs there is no excuse for losing it. As you are a collector of these things, you
niay hear of a few new and most beautiful varieties by sending a line to the Lough
Nurseries, Cork, and the Botanic Nui sery, Biggleswade.
Plunging System. — Simson. — Any plant of somewhat compact habit, if suitable
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 159
in colour, may be grown for this purpose. There is just nothing in it beyond this,
that the phmts are all grown in pots, and are brought forward V/hen at their best,
and removed when their best is over.
Sub-tropical Plants. — P. B. — Mr. Prosper has treated of all the palms that are
adapted for outdoor decoration only two months since. Last year there were several
articles upon these plants. Look throuah the numbers for January, February, March,
and April, 1867, and you may find all you want. The " Gardener's Gazette" we
know nothing of.
EucHAKis >vMAzoxicA.— i. B. B. — In the Flobal World for May, 1866, is a
paper by Mr. Howard, who exhibited the gigantic specimens at the International
Exhibition, and who is known to be the ablest cultivator of this plant in England.
You will find, by perusing that paper, that Mr. Howard never allows the plants to
rest, but shifts them on and on, and gives rich soil and abundance of water. To dry
it off is to risk killing it entirely.
RnYNCospERMUM Jasmixoides.— i. -5. i?.— Your plant would certainly thrive
in a border at the back of a cool greenhouse ; indeed, there is scarcely a better place
for it. Your gardener's proposal to " dry it off," is equivalent to treating a tree like
a potato, for this plant is a tree, though of the climbing or trailing sort, and needs
the ordinary treatment of nearly hardy hard-wooded plants.
Hard "\Yooded Plants. — G. A. G. asks if heaths, epacrises, and acacias are cut
below where they were pruned to last year will they shoot out again ? Well, perhaps
they may, and perhaps not. Sometimes when hard-wooded plants are so severely
pruned tliey die instead of shooting, and sometimes they shoot very freely. We found
in our garden last year a lot of once fine plants of Cytisus, Coronilla, Epacris, etc., that
had been humbugg'^ed, and their shape and beauty were gone. We cut them down very
low indeed, and after that almost forgot them, but they are now fine plants, for they
gi-ew freely after th.e severe pruning. G. A. G. must take the risk if desiring to
prune beloiv last year's pruning, which we should call very bad practice, unless there
is a special reason for it. Probably the black soil sparkling with sand may do
instead of peat for hard- wooded plants, but we cannot pronounce on the properties ot
a soil that we have not seen. The only way to try it is first to gi'ow a few plants
in it for a year and judge by their behaviour.
ScoRzoNERA.— ^. M. will find in the Floral World of April, 1867, a chapter
on Salsify. Scorzonera is grown in the same way, and if the seed is sown now it
will have time to make a good root.
ArcuBA Berries. — C. J. — When a few berries only are to be dealt with, it is best
to sow in pots, pans, or boxes. Any light soil will do ; cover an inch deep and keep
the soil moist. Artificial heat is not necessary, but when the plants appear, guard
them against fierce sunshine. The seeds are ripe now and may be sown directly.
General Index,— J". U. S. — We do not contemplate publishing any general
index, the expense would be considerable and we should probably sell very few ;
there are not many who appreciate such things.
Selections of Plants, -etc.— TV. B. Sihley. — You seem not to be aware that
in the " Garden Oracle" we publish every year lists of the best varieties of all the
popular flowers, those lists being prepared "from notes made during visits to gardens
and exhibitions, and our own collections during the preceding summer. To the
best of our ability we keep the readers of the Floral World informed on these
matters, but in the "Oracle" the whole affair is dealt with at the commencement of the
year, to render buyers of plants axhfait as to the several advances in their favourites.
The preparation o'f such lists is a much more severe task than you suppose, especially'
when we come to the best twelve or best six in a class comprising hundreds or
thousands of things. It needs not only knowledge and taste to discriminate, but
also opportunity. Unless v/e attended all the exhibitions and visited all the good
gardens, it would be impossible to do anything like justice to this department ; yet
we trust justice is done to it, and so say thousands of amateurs Avho make the
*' Oracle " their familiar book of reference.
Various. — Mrs. D. — The pretty plant, of which you send a drawing, is Tricho-
nema columna-, a rare British plant, flowering in March and April, well adapted
for the garden, and thriving on a sandy soil. — W. Wilson. — Mr. Walsh will give
us figures of auricula frames shortly. If you want a small collection of good
varieties, and are afraid of incurring greater expense than you can afford, write to
Mr. Turner, of Slough, for as many as you want, and name the price, leaving the
160 THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
selection to him, you will thus obtain good sorts at from 30s. to 40s. per dozen,
and of course he will send you such as he can propafrate most readily. The high
prices of some of the sorts are consequent upon the difficulty of multiplying them.
— J^. W. Maekie. — All the mysteries of multiplying roses by grafts, buds, cuttings,
nay, even by leaves, will be found explained in the fullest and simplest manner in
the " Rose Book." It would be unreasonable to go over the matter again in the
Floral World, yet we endeavour to keep our readers informed on the progress of
the rose and rose-crowing. — W. W. W. — Crinum capense is quite hardy. The
best way to grow it is to put it into a large pot, loam, with a good proportion of
manure added, and keep it in a cool house from October to May, and from the 1st
of May to the end of September plunge the pot one inch deep in water out of doors.
Phormiura tenax might be grown in the same way.
Heatixg with a Flue. — A letter in the February number of Floral "World,
entitled " Caught Napping," made me congratulate myself on having no greenhouse,
but only a couple of pits to attend to ; which pits protected my bedding plants
through the severe frosts of January, without any attention after the first (very care-
ful) covering up. Certainly, I should think twice before making up my mind to
erect a structure requiringfire-heat, if in such a frost as that which set in shortly after
Christmas— though no doubt the severest we have had since the great frost of 1860 —
the heating apparatus were to require "constant attention the whole of the night."
I conclude that the houses R. T. G. had in his mind, contained collections of stove
plants. In this neighbourhood the thermometer did not, as far as I know, descend
to zero. One on an earth wall in my garden marked 6". On Christmas Eve, 1860,
one on the grass, or rather on the snow, marked 1". On the 8th instant I saw a
greenhouse, heated by a flue, where, on the two nights last January, when there
were here 26 degrees of frost, or probably 29 in a more open situation, the fire bad
been carefully banked up at 10 p.m., and then left till morning. The plants, mostly
bedding plants, were all saved, and certainly looked most flourishing when I saw
them. No covering of any kind had been put over the glass. That flue, it must be
allowed, did its work pretty well.— A.N.
Catalogues Received. — Mr. Charles Turner, Moyal Nurseries, Slough,
"General Spring Catalogue, 1867," contains full lists of pelargoniums, azaleas,
auriculas, fuchsias, dahlias, picotees, etc., etc. One of the best cat:^logues extant.
— Mr. John Morse, Durslei/, Gloucestershire, " Catalogue of Cuttings." Mr,
Morse continues to offer cuttings of all kinds at a price which places within the
reach of the amateur who possesses a little practical skill, the means of obtaining
many rare plants and many novelties at a quite nominal price. The catalogue
embraces all classes of subjects for stove, greenhouse, and garden. — F. and A. Smith,
Park Road, Buhoich, London, S., "Catalogue of Plants for 1867." Comprises
descriptions of Messrs. Smith's new geraniums, primulas, azaleas, fancy pansies,
and petunias, besides enumerating the general nursery stock. — A. Verschaffelt,
Ghent, "Price Current for Spring, 1867." An important catalogue for large buyers
of camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, tree pseonies, and orchids ; useful also to the
thorough amateur who is on the look-out for choice things. — T. Sampson, Yeovil,
Somerset, " Catalogue of Bedding Plants and Roses, 1867." Copious, admirably
arranged, and well adapted to suggest to pnrcliasers the best varieties for their
several purposes. — Mr. T. S. Ware, Sale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, London^
N.E., "Catalogue of Evergreens, Deciduous Trees, Fruits, Roses, Herbaceous, and
Alpine Plants." A very nice catalogue, well adapted for consultation by lovers of
good things. We were astonished lately, when making a visit to this nursery, to
find about twenty acres of choice herbaceous plants, and the whole collection kept
in the most orderly manner, true to name, and the plants admirably grown. No
one taking a first look at the place would expect to find much good in it, for it is
most uninviting, having never been designed to attract public attention. But
beyond the little show garden, which is by no means showy, there is a perfect El
Dorado of choice plants, thousands and thousands of the best Delphiniums, Dianthus,
Spirea, Saxifraga, Polyanthus, Primula, Campanula, Aster, Daisy, etc., etc. It is
not a place for loungers or sight-seers ; but for people who are in earnest about
buying good things, and have some idea of what they want, it is one of the best
nurseries in the kingdom.
THE FLOEAL WORLD
■^ AND
GARDEN GUIDE.
JUNE, 186
THE FEUIT CROP OF 1867.
T has been frequently remarked in the Floeil World
that every season is in some way extraordinary, and "we
feel assured none of our readers will demur to this
assertion, that this season is as extraordinary as any
within remembrance. We have had a long and tedious
winter, dragging far into the spring. Nearly all early-sown seeds
perished in the ground ; those sown in April were forced into rapid
growth by the torrid weather of the early part of May, and were
afterwards well nigh killed by the arctic weather that followed.
The heat and the cold of May, 1867, will be registered amongst the
curiosities of British meteorological records. We have had many
opportunities of judging the state of the fruit crops, for during the
past few weeks we have travelled over the greater part of the south
of England, both east and west, and have touched a few points in
the midland. Erom all that we have seen and heard, it appears that
of Apricots there is a promise of a large crop, and that is pretty
generally distributed. Of Peaches and Nectarines, the crop, generally
speaking, is small, but there are many exceptions in favoured
districts. Pears are, to a great extent, a failure ; certainly there is
not anywhere an average show of young fruit. Of Apples and
Cherries, there is abundance. The fruit crop is, of course,
dependent on a variety of circumstances ; the weather in autumn in
great part determines it, for if the young wood and the fruit spurs
are not well ripened, there must be a limited production. But
however perfect the trees may be as to condition, the formation of
fruit is next to impossible if the weather is cold and wet when the
trees are in bloom. As a rule, the several kinds of fruit-trees are
tolerably regular in their several seasons of flowering, and follow
each other in an established order of sequence. In the present year,
however, there has been a little deviation from the established
order of things, and instead of pears, plums, and cherries being, as
they usually are, far in advance of apples, they were kept back by
cold until the apples, feeling the cold less, had so far advanced as to
be ready to open with them. Consequently we have in many
VOL II. — NO. TI. 11
162 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. *
instances seen all these trees in bloom at the same time in tlie same
garden ; but the pears were sufficiently in advance of the apples to
be caught in an easterly blast accompanied with rain, and where
the trees make now but a small promise of fruit, the failure may be
fairly attributed to the ungenial state of the elements at the time
the bloom was at its best.
In several places of the west of England we have seen the pear-
trees as thickly covered as to indicate that if not well thinned by
art or nature, they must be broken down by the weight of i'ruit ;
nevertheless we expect it will prove that, generally speaking, pears
are scarce. The sudden outburst of warm weather just preceding
the 20th of February, forced many apricot-trees into bloom, and
very bad weather followed tluit date ; yet there is in most gardens,
both in the east and west of England, a very fair show of fruit. It
curiously happens that in several cases we have this season had
pointed out to us apricot-trees that were protected by nets, or
sheets, or otherwise, and that show no fruit to pay for the care
bestowed on them ; while in the same garden, or in gardens close
by, other trees similarly situated as to soil and aspect, and that were
left wholly without protection, have an abundant sprinkling of
young fruit. Thus there are two sides to the question of protect-
ing wall-trees. However, on the other side of this question we can
say that in almost every case where we have seen good promises of
Peaches and I^ectarines, the trees were protected, and needed the
protection. It is the custom with many experienced cultivators to
shade the trees during the day, and fully expose them at night, in the
event of warm weather occurring in Eebruary. This practice tends
to retard the bloom, and is usually attended with good results.
But it is every season becoming more and UiOre manifest that
for all the more tender kinds of fruits we must make use of glass,
save and except in some of the warmer districts of the south and
west, where the winters are rarely severe, and the spring frosts so
common and so destructive in the eastern and northern parts of the
country are comparatively unknown. If it be asked if the climate
is less capable of producing wall fruit than heretofore, we have no
hesitation in replying that in our opinion it has changed con-
siderably of late years in this respect, though as to the mean
temperature of the year, and the average rainfall, there may,
perhaps, be no evidence of change. It must be remembered that
wall fruits were never abundant in this country from year to year,
without exception. There have always been good years and bad
years, and in times when a peach-house was a luxury for the
wealthy only, people were content to have all that could be got
from walls, and when they got nothing, they believed it was inevit-
able. But times have changed ; rents have risen, land and labour
continually increase in value, and if we plant fruit-trees in our
gardens, we must, in self defence, compel them to bear fruit ; we
cannot afford, nor is it desirable, that we should be satisfied to trust
entirely to the promiscuous results of out-door growth in the culti-
vation of tender fruits ; for the crop of one season when, as now,
there is a pretty general failure, will amply pay for the means of
THE FLORAL WORLD AXD GARDEN GUIDE. 163
producing it, when we make the best possible use of glass, and, to a
great extent, escape the vicissitudes of our uncertain springs. One
hour of sun to peach-trees in bloom under glass will insure the
setting of abundance of fruit ; but the same hour of sun to peach-
trees on walls may do harm by pushing them on when there is no
likelihood of good weather following, so that the best the cultivator
can do for his wall trees is, to screen the sunshine from them. The
mere employment of ^lass without the aid of artificial heat, is
equivalent to the production of an improved climate ; hence the
multiplication of orchard-houses, which have completely changed
the aspects of fruit-culture in this country. There have been many
mistakes, and there will be mistakes ; but the orchard-house has
become an institution, and has amply vindicated its claims by results.
As we are speaking principally of failures in fruit-growing, it
seems advisable to offer a tew words on failures iu orchard-houses.
First, then, we may say that small houses are comparatively useless.
It is impossible to ventilate small houses in a manner suitable for
fruit-trees ; and on the other hand, if they are not ventilated, a few
hours' sun makes them destructively hot, as on the other hand, a
sharp frost makes them destructively cold. What with rapid and
extreme alternations of temperature, and occasional cutting draughts,
trees in small houses have but a poor chance to produce a crop of
fruit. If it be asked what we mean by the word '' small," we reply
that we consider a house thirty feet by fifteen, or thereabouts, to be
the smallest in which should be attempted to grow fruit; but if the
house is properly proportioned, and built with a view to the purpose
it is to be devoted to, the larger it is the better. A great body of
air, a broad expanse of glass admitting abundance of light, and
a considerable extent of borders retaining for a long time an
equable temperature, being neither heated nor cooled quickly, are
conditions eminently favourable to the production of fruit ; and in
the case of peaches, nectarines, pears, and figs, there is in this
country no certainty of fruit without the aid of a suitable structure ;
but given a good fruit-house and a skilful cultivator, and we may
reasonably expect fruit annually.
The rough shed-like houses at first recommended by Mr. Rivers
never met with much favour. The fact is, amateurs soon tire of
ugly contrivances and make-shifts, and as few private persons build
for themselves, the construction of a rough house is not generally
attended with so great a saving as will sufficiently make amends for
lack of appearances. The best possible houses for fruit culture may
now be obtained at rates so far below what have been usually
hitherto paid for such, that in every good garden an orchard-house
should now be considered a desideratum, and, we repeat, the larger
it is the better; and to that we add, that if the maximum of fruit
produced by a minimum of labour is the object of the proprietor, it
is far better to plant the trees in open borders, and to abandon all
idea of pot culture. The incessant watering, the annual dressing,
and the many other cares that attend the cultivation of fruit-trees in
pots, render that mode objectionable in gardens where a few hands
have to accomplish much work ; but when the trees are planted out,
164 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
tbey in great part take care of themselves ; and having always in
view to multiply the horticultural enjoyments of our readers at the
least possible cost, we say, build as large a house as possible — build
it well, and plant out the trees with ample space between them for
admission of light and circulation of air.
"We can refer back with pleasure to the many designs for fruit-
houses which have been made public in the Floral World, and
especially those from the fertile invention — invention made addi-
tionally valuable, because conjoined with abundant practical ex-
perience— of Mr. Howlett, one of our oldest and most valued of
contributors. If houses ready made, and needing only the hand of
a skilful labourer or the village carpenter to put them up, are re-
quired, then those invented and patented by Sir Joseph Paxton are
undoubtedly amongst the very best that can be adopted. The
extreme simplicity of the construction, the perfect ventilation, and
the Hood of light they admit, are conditions eminently favourable to
fruit production. The old-fashioned houses, -with heavy rafters and
restricted ventilation, that always answered so well for camellias and
azaleas, are, as a rule, the worst in which fruit-growing can be
attempted. Sir Joseph understood as well as any man that ever
lived what were the requirements of fruit-trees, and his invention is
a monument to his memory which will bear fruit literally and meta-
phorically to his fame in perpetuity, unless the climate should
change to that of the south of France, and then we shall have not
much need of glass for fruit culture. We have lately seen the
cheap fruit-houses designed by Mr. Ormson, of Stanley Bridge,
Chelsea, and to which he applies the term Paradigm (example
houses). These are made without rafters of the ordinary kind; all
the parts are produced by machinery to a uniform pattern, the sys-
tem of ventilation is admirable, and they are as elegant in appearance
as any structures we are accustomed to meet with, costing twice as
much, compared with the area covered. As for old walls with fine
old trees upon them, the glass coverings (" Scott's glass walls")
manufactured by the St. Pancras Iron Company, deserve notice for
their cheapness and efficiency, for by means of these a wall becomes
a lean-to house at a comparatively trifling cost, and the trees are at
once protected from the destructive influence of the cast winds, and
every ray of sunshine, instead of being feared by tke cultivator, is
welcomed as afi'ording them life and strength. S. H.
Effects of the Past Winter. — I see you liave in^eited notices of various
losses from the late frosts in other parts of the country. I beg leave to tell you that
we here at Ashford, in Kent, as well as others in the neighbourhood, have also been
severe sufferers. I myself have lost most of my evergreens, especially Laurestinuses,
Bays, Arbutus, Rhododendrons, and even strong Laurels, as nlso some of the
choicest named standard and dwarf Roses, and several terra cotta vnses I bought
of Whitton, of Stamford, warranted to stand the frost, which, however, crumbled to
pieces. I also lost four acres of Matson's Purple-top Swede Turnips, the same as
Suttons, of Reading, call their Champion. By inserting this, you will save me the
trouble of answering innumerable letters from ladies who knew and admired ray
plants much, and who have suffered equally with myself. Turnip seed, I fear, will
be very scarce, as I see cattle-feeders are reducing their stock, owing to the great
scarcity of even feeding-turnips for preparing cattle for Ma}- markets.— J. F.
165
SOME XOBLE HAEDY PLANTS FOE THE ELOWEE
GAEDEN.
BY KAKL PKOSPEE.
[HEEE are many hardy plants of quite noble character
that are as yet comparatively unknown in English
gardens. It cannot be a mistake to mention them,
with a few words as to their appearances and habits,
and the cultivation they require ; for they are, generally
speaking, inexpensive in the first instance, and require no glass
houses and no expensive appliances or long-tried skill to keep them
when they are once obtained. I shall in this paper direct attention
to a few that I think should have a place in every garden where
handsome hardy plants are valued. First let me make a few remarks
on some that are tolerably well known, yet are not to be found in
many of the gardens of persons who nevertheless appreciate beau-
tiful plants. The Pampas grass (Gynermm argenteum) is one of
the most noble of all ; but unfortunately, in many of the eastern
and northern parts of England, it was destroyed by frost in the
winters of 1860-61, and 1866-67. But as it is cheap and grows
fast, its occasional destruction should not be an argument for its
omission from any garden. It was at first recommended to plant
this grass in richly-manured damp hollows, and it is true that in
such spots it grows most luxuriantly. But as it comes from a
warmer climate than this, it is far safer to plant it on a mound in
rich loam, as in such a case it has a good opportunity of growing
freely, and in the event of a severe winter is so comparatively dry
at the root (being elevated) it has a chance of escaping injury. A
fine example of it is one of the most elegant objects that can be
found in a garden, and the flower-spikes may be cut and kept for
winter bouquets, and will last several years similar to this. But of
dwarfer growth is the new reed grass,
Arunclo consplcua, which begins to bloom in June, whereas the
pampas does not bloom till October. This, though fond of moisture,
is safest on an elevated bank, and I can say from observation, that
though in a very dry position it does not suifer, though in its native
clime it is a marsh grass.
The Trltoma uvaria is one of the grandest flowering plants it is
possible to plant in an English garden, and so cheap and easily
grown, that I really wonder it is so scarce that I only see it in such
as I call good places. It may be planted in the most exposed
garden in this country with perfect safety ; even the terrible frost
of January last did not, I believe, kill a single plant anywhere ;
certainly I have seen it survive that frost unhurt, in gardens where
the Pampas and Arundo conspicua in the same bed were destroyed.
Plant it in ground heavily manured, and leave it alone several years ;
its splendour is not to be described, and it is not like anything else
in cultivation.
Having mentioned these two fine subjects, I will now more par-
166 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND aARDEN GUIDE.
ticularly enumerate a few that are sure to please, and that are
procurable at every good nursery.
L'd'ium aiiratum. — This is so cheap now that fine bulbs may be
purchased at from half-a-crown to five shillings each, though only
four years ago it was greedily bought at ten guineas a bulb, and
toas cheap at that price. I cannot stop to describe this wondrous
lily, sufiice that the flower is of immense size, and has golden stripes
over white ground, and that as many as forty- seven flowers have
been produced on one plant, and all expanded at the same time. As
a'cool greenhouse plant it has no equal, but it is hardy, and may be
planted in the open garden with perfect safety. Plants just grow-
ing may be planted out now, and will flower in July or August.
Probably it will grow well in any good mellow loam, if enriched
with leaf-mould and quite rotten manure, but I recommend it to be
grown in pure peat of a lumpy, turfy nature, as in this kind of soil
I have found it to grow most freely, and the flowers are of the
most gorgeous description. If the bed it is planted in is damp, or
the position extra cold, the bulbs might be taken up in November,
and put in sand till March, and be then potted, and when the pots
are full of roots planted out again in May or June.
Lilimn giganteum. — This is a grand lily, the pure white flowers
stand on a noble pillar of green, and the leaves are large and highly
varnished. Five years ago I paid three guineas each for bulbs, but
I can now obtain them for five shillings each. It is quite hardy,
though not generally known to be so. This I recommend to be
planted in pure peat of a tough turfy nature. Prom the 10th of
May to the 30th of June it should have half a gallon of water to
soak the ground all round it twice a week, except when there is
heavy rain, and then for a time the watering may cease. I have
seen fine plants of this lily lately fresh and vigorous, throwing up
flower-stems in gardens where Arundo donax has been cut down to
the ground, and Bambusa gracilis is almost destroyed. These plants
have passed three winters where they now are. Who then can
doubt the hardiness of the plant ?
Arundinaria falcata is a bamboo growing twelve feet high, full of
grace and beauty. I cannot imagine a more splendid plant for a
sheltered nook in a " choice garden ;" its colour is so fresh and
pleasing, its form bo peculiar, so " tropical" like. It is strange that
though this grand plant will grow in any ordinary good soil, say
wherever the soil will grow a cabbage, that few people have it,
though there are thousands of pounds spent in bedding plants that
are seen in their proper beauty only for a few months, and have to
be constantly renewed. But each to his taste ; my duty is to direct
attention to good things, and there leave the matter.
Crambe cordifolia is a gigantic kind of seakale. All our readers
know that the common seakale of the kitchen garden is a fine
plant, and quite worth a place in the flower garden. But this is
absolutely grand, and will grow in any soil, but will do best in a
good, sandy loam with plenty of good manure. Pind a place for it
first in the shrubbery, and having become acquainted with its
splendour you will be sure to find a place for it in the flower garden
THE FLOEAL WORLD AXD GARDEN GUIDE. 167
where some distinct and peculiar plant is required. To increase it
you have but to pot a few pieces of its fleshy roots, and when they
begin to grow freely, plant them out.
Criiium capeme. — This superb lily-like plant, with graceful
dracaena-like leaves, and a long-necked bulb, is quite hardy, though
usually regarded as a plant of the stove. To grow this to per-
fection, plant it beside water in a sunny spot, in good loam, and
leave it alone. Or it may be grown in a pot, and from the 1st of
May to the 1st of August, the pot should be plunged one inch
deep in water. A few such plants in a garden will mark its pos-
sessor as possessing some taste, not so any quantity of ephemeral
subjects that make colour only, and sometimes not much of that.
Dmccena australis. — Superb for elegance, and most tropical in
outline ; will live winter and summer in the warmer parts of Eng-
land. At Torquay or Exmouth, I should plant it out and leave it;
in cooler places I should keep it in a pot, and plunge it out all the
summer.
Phormium tenax, the New Zealand flax, which almost rivals
the noble Cordyline indivisa in beauty, is quite hardy in all the
southern counties, and is everywhere a fine cool conservatory plant.
It requires a good loamy soil, and abundance of water.
Belpliinium formosum is so well known that I am half ashamed
to mention it ; but I am justified, because very few do justice to it.
How superb are its huge spikes of flowers of a heavenly blue, and
how thoroughly hardy it is, and at home in any kind of soil. It
has one great enemy — the common slug, and that is its only enemy,
for neither frost, heat, nor wet injure it. Gather the seed as soon
as ripe, and sow it at once, and let the plants remain until the
following March, and then transplant them to where they are to
flower, and sprinkle soot, lime, or wood ashes amongst them, to
keep away the slugs. They improve every year, and are superb
when three years old. A fine eflect may be produced by planting a
large bed with them in rows two feet apart. When they show their
flower-spikes peg them down, and plant scarlet geraniums, in rows,
between them. Then you have intense scarlet and intense blue in
the same bed. When the delphiniums have done blooming, the
geraniums will begin to spread and hide them, and the bed will be
scarlet only.
Aralia papyrifera. — This is the rice-paper plant of China and
Japan. It is superb in character, and usually quite hardy ; at all
events, it is so in Battersea Park. It may be kept in any dark place,
or under a greenhouse stage, all winter ; so any of our readers who
wish to make a small forest of it may do so without difilculty.
One or two plants on a lawn give a most refined air to the spot.
Phytolacca decandra. — This is at once a curious and beautiful
plant, more curious than beautiful, perhaps, but eminently deserv-
ing a place in the shrubbery border. It has a turnip-like root, and
a huge herbaceous stem, which bears a long spike of fruits like
blackberries. Imagine a great cob of Indian corn, with these
blackberries instead of the usual grains of flinty corn, and you
have an idea of the nature of the fruit. As to its hardiness, I
1G8 , - THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
have seen it at NottiDgbam in a garden, where it has grown most
luxuriantly for the past seven years. It is the plant known in America
as the " A^irginian poke."
Rlieum cmodi is a huge-leaved rhubarb, with red stems, very
handsome, and will do in any soil. I saw, not long since, common
rhubarb planted in a bed amongst those splendid rhododendrons
and hollies near Eotten Row, in Hyde Park. They had a good
effect ; but I thought it a pity they had not planted Rheum emodi
instead, for it is ten times more handsome than any rhubarb, and is
not open to the reproach of being a kitchen plant. I once saw
scarlet-runner beans planted to make a mass of red in a flower-
garden. I granted they were beautiful at a distance ; but I said
such planting was not creditable, because when we discover its
nature, we feel we have been cheated.
Palaver pulcherrimum and P. trium]rjliale are huge species of
poppy, with scarlet flower, the plants rising three feet high. Put
them in a sunny border. They do not last long in full beauty ; but
while they are good, they are glorious.
Ligularia gigantea. — This plant bears some resemblance to the
Chinese coltsfoot, Farfugium grande^ and is well adapted for a raised
bank. It grows quite three feet high, and soon makes a great mass
of most handsome leaves.
Heradeum giganteum is a gigantic hemlock, only fit for the
shrubbery and retired parts of the grounds, but in a suitable place,
especially near water, it is a grand and imposing object, presenting
its vast head of white flowers on a stem six feet high.
Flymus glauca. — This lovely grass is not at all understood ; its
beauty is distinct and delightful ; the rather broad leaves arch over
in every variety of graceful curve, and the colour is a glittering
glaucous green. Its proper place is on a dry sandy bank, but it will
grow in any soil and almost any position. I have lately visited a
garden which is known to the readers of the Floeal Would, and
seen this grass making a superb eftect. One great tuft of it stands
high up in a huge hollow tree, in the midst of brake and other ferns,
in a rockery, and other plants are in pots on the lawn, placed in
pairs alternately with pairs of Cedrus deodara, Cupressus Lawsoniana,
Abies Douglassi, etc., and other conifers, which are also in pots.
The Elymus contrasts finely with the bright green of the turf, and
the rich dark and light of the coniferous trees.
Now I have named a few plants that no one who loves a garden
should be without. They are all cheap, easily obtained, easily
grown, will increase with time, will give dignity and splendour to
any garden. My list of favourites is not exhausted, but I shall not
name any more at present.
169
GEEENHOUSE AND HAEDY ADIANTUMS.
[N every garden now we meet with Adian turns ; in the
poor man's garden there is an attempt made to grow the
lovely A. capillus veneris, the British maidenhair, which
needs only shade, and moisture, and shelter from wind
and frost, to attain to the most perfect luxuriance. In
gardens where collections of plants are grown under glass, and espe-
cially where exhibition subjects meet with attention, adiantums are
sure to be plentiful. Very much might be said on this lovely family
of ferns, but an endeavour will be made in this paper to compress a
considerable amount of information in a comparatively small compass.
The Adiantums belong to the Pteris section of the filices,
and are, as regards the nature of the indusium, congeners with
Cheilanthes, Platyloma, Pteris, Lomaria, and AVoodwardia. In all
the species of Adiantum, the sori are disposed on the margin of the
pinnae, sometimes in a continuous line, but usually interrupted. The
veins of the pinnae are usually forked and radiating, the fronds are
mostly smooth, and have a peculiar power of repelling moisture.
The stipes and rachis are mostly purplish or black, very slender, and a
peculiar family likeness prevails amongst the members of the genus,
by which they may be readily recognized as adiantums, though it
may not be at all times easy to determine the species.
The cultivation of these ferns is, generally speaking, very simple,
but there are exceptions. Some are difficult to keep through the
winter, and some require peculiar care at all times. But there are
certain peculiarities of constitution common to them all. They love
shade and moisture, are soon injured, and even killed by sunshine,
rough wind, or drought. Some few, such as tenerum, will submit
to occasional hardships w'ithout suffering seriously. Yet the powers
of endurance of this are circumscribed by narrow limits, and it never
attains to its proper beauty except when sheltered, shaded, and kept
constantly moist. There is no better soil for this class of ferns than
good fibrous peat and silver sand, with more or less of broken stone
added. It is best in every case to avoid the admixture with the
compost of loam, leaf-mould, or other substitutes for peat, but sand
may be largely used if free from lime and iron, and several of the
species will grow luxuriantly amongst damp bricks or on damp stone
without any other soil at all. ;This is especially the case with the
British maidenhair, which really does better without soil than with
it, though it may be grown to a fine condition in the usual mixture of
peat and sand.
The adiantums do not generally root deep, and the pots employed
for growing specimens are usually objectionably tall ; shallow^ pans
are far preferable to pots when it is intended to bestow particular
care on a few specimens, with a view to grow them to a large size.
Our exhibition specimens are grown in pots which have been made
for the purpose, at my own suggestion, by Messrs. Adams, Brothers,
of the Kilns, at Belle Isle, King's Cross, London. These pots are
extra stout, made of the best clay, and very carefully burnt, and
170 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
they are quite neatly finished. The meaaiirements are (inside) thirteen
inches across and eight inches deep. They are pierced all over with
small holes at bottom, ^vith a few large holes at the sides close to the
bottom. They are the very best pots for specimens not requiring a
great depth of soil, that I have hitherto seen.
In producing specimens, the proces's adopted must depend upon
the habit of the species. A. cuueatum makes one of the finest
specimen plants ever seen ; no wonder it is the general favourite for
exhibition. Here we have a fern which grows from a compact
crown, which from year to year increases in size. With such a
growth, the only legitimate way of making a great specimen is to
grow one on and on till the desired size is attained. It is no use
to overpot them, for they grow no faster. The only safe way is to
shift from size to size as the plant requires more room, always taking
care never to give too much pot-room, and when it is in as large a
pot as desired, it may remain in the same pot for many years without
requiring fresh soil, and without declining in beauty.
I could point to several wondrous adiantums that have been
going about at shows for the past seven years, winning everywhere,
and that have had no kind of shift or change of soil in all that time.
But if the growth of a specimen becomes poor, it must be turned
out in the spring just before it starts into new growth, and the
roots must be cut back, and much of the old soil must be shaken
out, and it may then be repotted in the same pot with fresh
compost, and will go on again very well for two or three years
longer.
In making specimens of such as A. formosum, which does not
form a crown, but runs about hither and thither, it is quite legiti-
mate to pot any number of pieces in a large pan, and make a spe-
cimen at once. A. loedatum may be treated in this way, and in fact
the quickest method of making a large specimen would be to divide
a plant into as many pieces as possible, and pot them in small pots,
and put them in a warm moist house, and grow them thus one
season. The next season a sufficient number of these may be put
into a pan, and will thenceforth be elfective for exhibition or
decoration.
As to temperature, all the adiantums love warmth. Even capillus
veneris, which is a true British fern, though nearly extinguished by
the zeal of collectors and the destructive stupidity of people who
are neither collectors nor cultivators, and who would tear the last
scrap of this or any other rare fern from the last of its localities
only to kill it by bad treatment, or to forget it an hour afterwards ;
even this hardy species will grow more freely in a cool, shady green-
house than in the open air, and more freely in a damp stove than in
a greenhouse. A dry heat or a strong light are very injurious, but
warmth with moisture suits them all without exception, and every
one may be well grown in a mean temperature 10 degrees higher
than the lowest mean temperature in which it will live and thrive.
Therefore the hardy kinds may be taken to the greenhouse, and the
greenhouse kinds to the stove, and the stove kinds may be put in
the hottest part of the stove, provided that in other respects they
Adi.vntum cuneatum.
172 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
are properly treated. I shall pftceed to classify all tlie species I
am acquainted with as to the lowest temperature they will bear
without injury, adding a few notes that may be of use or interest,
as the naaies suggest the necessity of remarks.
HABDT ADIANTUMS.
A. capillus veneris, the true maidenhair, is exquisitely beautiful,
and it is always the ambition of the fern-grower to do justice to it.
Nothing can be easier than the cultivation of this fern, provided it
is in the enjoyment of shade, moisture, warmth, and a suitable soil.
Those who" possess the " Garden Oracle " for 1866, will find there
the best code I can propose for its cultivation. It will grow freely
amongst the bricks inside a warm well, and on the brick wall of a
stove it will spread in a sheet of the loveliest verdure. In a cool
greenhouse or a frame it may be kept in perfect health, if secured
against sunshine and in a humid atmosphere. Many fail through
soddening the roots with water ; in truth, the roots must be com-
paratively dry, but the atmosphere must be moist, and care must be
taken not to wet the fronds in cold weather. The best soil for it
when grown in pots is one consisting of equal parts peat, sand, and
broken freestone.
A. capillus veneris cuneatum. — This is a delicate variety, a plant
of which I received last year from Mr. Sim. The pinnules have not
the bold orbicular form of the original, but are narrow wedge-
shaped, and of a pale green. It is very pretty, and more tender
than the species. I have several varieties with large pinnules, col-
lected on the Continent — notably a fine one from the Colosseum,
in Eome — but they do not difi"er sufficiently to be named as varieties.
A. pedatuni. — This is tlie best of all the adiantums for a beginner,
as it will bear many degrees of frost without sufi"ering, and has all
the true grace of the family to which it belongs. If planted out in
the open-air fernery, let it be in a position sheltered from wind and
sun, and where stagnant water will not lodge.
GEEEKHOrSE ADIANTUMS.
A. assimile. — Many growers make mistakes in the identification
of this fern. As A. cuneatum is well known, the form of the
frond will give a key to the identification of this species, but the pin-
nules are rounder than those of cuneatum, and it has fast creeping
stems, so that it never forms a close round tuft. It is very beauti-
ful, and requires a rather warm house to do well. A. assimile and
A. ^Ethiopicum are one and the same.
A. affine. — This also rises from creeping stems, and it most
nearly resembles A.formosum — indeed, bears a very close resemblance
to that species. Makes a fine specimen, and requires a warm green-
house. This and assimile have been several times planted in the cool
fern-house that was figured and described in the Flokal Wokld for
January, 1806, but they have never got through the winter well, and
have generally been renewed in spring.
A. cuneatum. — This most delicate, yet most sumptuous fern may
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 173
be quickly distinguished from all others by its wedge-shaped pin-
nules. It grows fnst, is nearly hardy ; at all events, I have seen it
frozen hard in seven degrees of frost, without suffering in the least.
Slugs and wood-lice are intensely fond of it.
A. chiliense. — A very bold-habited species, with large, round,
handsome pinnules of a brilliant light green. It is tolerably hardy,
and thrives in a cool house.
A. formosum. — Yery distinct and fine, the stipes conspicuous
by their dark colour, the fronds rich green, wide, triangular, each
thrice-divided, and each division divided thrice again. Xearly hardy,
not easily destroyed, even by several degrees of frost, or by much
bad treatment. It makes a sumptuous specimen.
A.fidvum. — This grows in the style of formosum or affiue ; the
young fronds are of a delicate pinky- white colour, then become dull
red, and ultimately deep green. It is rather downy, grows
vigorously, and is comparatively hardy.
A. hispidulum. — Common, nearly hardy, graceful, much like the
last, both in the colour of the young fronds, and the downy nature
of the rachis and stipes.
A. tenellum. — This is a small, bluish green species, rather spare
in habit, but distinct and pretty. It is sometimes (but wrongly)
labelled hispidulum.
A. reniforme. — Undivided, kidney-shaped fronds of great beauty,
especially when in fruit. It grows to perfection in a close case, and
will do well in the greenhouse under a bell-glass. It has been
reported on in these pages as a case fern, and has also been figured.
We have a plant now which has been in an unheated case for years.
The fronds are of the size of half-a -crown, and bear abundance of
fruit.
A. setulosum. — This has been described and figured in these
pages. It is a perfect gem, especially to grow in a basket, or cocoa-
nut husk. If there are orifices all over the receptacle, the plant will
push through, and soon cover it with its light green three to five
divided fronds. In some respects it may be called a small edition
of afiine.
A. tinctum. — Light and elegant in habit, the divisions similar to
assimile ; or it may be called a large edition of capillus veneris.
The young fronds are of a delicate rose colour, changing to dull
purplish red, and afterwards to delicate green. As a case fern it is
unsurpassed, and as a greenhouse fern is comparatively hardy, and a
good grower. I have the original plant presented to me by Messrs.
Yeitch when the species was first introduced, and it is now a superb
specimen.
ADIANTUMS ADAPTED FOB CASES.
Amongst the foregoing, the following are admirably adapted for
closed cases : — Capillus veneris, assimile, affine, cuneatum, chiliense,
formosum, fulvum, hispidulum, tenellum, reniforme, setulosum,
tinctum.
The species that require the stove must be noticed next month.
S. H.
171
HINTS OX PLANT-GROWINa IN LIVING EOOMS.
BY GEORGE GOEDON, ESQ., A.L.S.,
President of the Central Society of lEorticultiire.
ANY persons are eitlier deterred from, or misled, in
growing plants in living rooms, by reading the lugu-
brious nonsense written about the danger of keeping
plants in such situations after nightfall, or in perusing
the mystified directions given from time to time for
their cultivation under the head of " Window " or " Indoor
Gardening." Such instructions, for the most part, consist of tios-
trums, secrets, and tricJcs, which are not only pernicious, but silly,
and tend to puzzle and perplex the inexperienced, by creating a
belief that there is much more art in growing plants in such
situations than there really is. But as the former of such state-
ments may with propriety be placed in the category of absurdities,
so may the latter instructions be transferred to that of twaddle; for
the principal cause why plants in living rooms do not thrive so well
as those which are kept in plant structures, is chieily owing to the
extreme dryness of the air in sitting-rooms, and consequently their
being subjected to a constant drain upon the moisture in their
leaves and the soil in the pots — the leaves under such circumstances
being deprived of their water by evaporation, instead of by per-
spiration; and in the exercise of their absorbent functions being
more or less disarranged from a deficiency of moisture in the air, for
all plants are more or less dependent upon the vapour in the
atmosphere as a source for their healthy development.
Much, however, depends also upon the suitableness of the plants
selected for the purpose, and the regular attention bestowed upon
them, especially during the winter months ; for it is an unquestion-
able fact, that plants in sitting-rooms require greater care and
attention, and suffer more from neglect during the dull months,
from November to February, than at any other period of the
year. Therefore, the first thing to do in cultivating plants in
living rooms, is to determine what are the most suitable kinds
for such a situation ; and the more select they are, according to
habit and culture, the easier will be their treatment. Plants of
low and humble growth should always be kept in the front, and
close to the glass, while the larger growing ones may be elevated
behind ; and in order to favour in the greatest degree possible the
harmonious growth of the plants, and obtain a uniform development
of the branches and leaves, the position should be capable of
admitting light as much as possible on all sides ; and the best and
only general rule that can be adopted is to keep those plants not in
a growing state rather dry, for plants kept in sitting-rooms gene-
rally are over-watered : and it# is not an uncommon thing to see
plants flourishing in the window of a dwelling under the care of an
uninitiated individual, whilst those under the charge of others, in
THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 175
adjoining houses, only linger out a miserable existence, and which
frequently is occasioned by the plants being kept standing in pans,
into which the water is poured when the plants are supposed to re-
quire watering ; whereas, whenever water is given, it should be gently
poured on the top of the earth in the pot. But as it is indispensable
to have pans under the pots in sitting-rooms, small pans should be
turned upside down within them, upon which to place the plants,
and this precaution will prevent such water as may percolate
through the soil from again reaching the pot in which the plant is
growing ; and all cultivators of window plants will find it by far the
saTest plan to give too little rather than too much water during the
winter time, for the plants themselves will give notice when they
are in much want of water by their leaves beginning to droop, while
the eft'ect of over-watering is oftentimes not discovered till the
health of tlie plant has been seriously affected ; therefore, attention
to this point is one of the most important in window gardening.
It is, however, impossible to say how often plants should be watered,
or how much at a time should be given them, as the same- plant
would require more or less according to circumstances ; that is, in
regard to the temperature of the room, and the degree of activity
with which the plant may happen to be growing at the time. It
must also be observed that the temperature of the water used in
watering the plants should be at least equal to that of the room,
and when the plants begin to grow in the spring, increase the
quantity with growth and sun's power, keeping the soil at all times
in a medium state of moisture. Afterwards, when the plants are
growing fast, a more copious supply of water should be given daily,
and which, if possible, should be given either in the evening or first
thing in the morning, but never during the middle of the day in
hot dry weather, if it can be avoided. When autumn arrives,
decrease the supply of moibture with the length of day and the
returning torpidity of the plant, until the dry state for the winter
is again reached : afterwards the plants will require but little
moisture, but should occasionally, during the winter, have the surface
of their leaves wiped gently over with a wet sponge, to remove any
dust and keep the surface clean. Many cultivators are quite uncon-
scious of the injury plants receive by a sudden change from that
state in which they have been long kept to one of an opposite
tendency — such as from drought to a bountiful supply of moisture,
or from dark to light, such as placing plants out in the sun without
their being first gradually inured to the light and air. Again, in
M'inter, plants are frequently kept in too warm a part of the sittin^^-
r()om,fortheyneednot be removed from the window during frost, unless
it be very severe, and then being placed on the fioor near the middle
of the room and covered with a piece of baize will suffice, as they
will be safe where water placed beside tiiem merely begins to freeze.
Camellias, and similar hard-wooded and stifi'-leaved plants, will even
bear the soil in the pots being a little frozen, and frequently the
cause of camellias losing their blossom-buds is from their being
kept in too warm a part of the sitting-room in severe weather, and
consequently in too dry an atmosphere, finally, you must never
176 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
let plants suffer from neglect. Many persons let them dwindle or
die by forgetting to water them at the proper time, or shelter them
from excessive sun-heat and frost. Again, without training and
pruning, nothing is brought to the highest state of perfection to
whicli it is capable, for cultivation is necessary in order to exhibit
the good to which every earthly nature is susceptible. Therefore,
stopping and training must be attended to during the growing
season, as well as repotting in the spring.
oj^ inaeching vines.
BY JOHN" F. m'ELEOT.
VAST amount of information has, at various periods,
emerged from the press on the culture and manage-
ment of vines ; but not a doubt can be entertained that
tiie principal agency in the production and reproduction
of their fruit is the means we have at our control for
maintaining a constant healthy root action. Among the means
which have been adopted for imparting the needed vitality which
modern science has suggested, that of enabling the cultivators to
apply a tem.perature to the roots in proportion to that to which the
leaves are subjected when forced, is, perhaps, the most useful.
Modern improvements have given us every facility in the erection of
forcino-'houses, that the constructions may be so adapted as to
supply the desired requirements ; of course the skill and attention
of the gardener must be combined with those resources to prove
their value.
Thou^^h all these benefits may be available, if sought for, by
proprietors of gardening establishments, still there are structures
devoted to the culture of the vine which had their origin during
the past century, and in which the gardener has to contend with
many conflicting elementsmnfavourable to culture, as a low, dingy,
damp house, and borders which from their situation are unavoidably
exposed to wet and a chilly temperature at some portion of the
year. To young gardeners I say, endeavour, when circumstances
favour you, to rectify this state of things wherever it may exist.
This brings me to my subject, the " Inarching of Vines." It is
not uncommon when vines are planted, especially on borders outside
of the house, for some of the plants to take the precedence of others
in o-rowth ; or it may be that you have vines that are flourishing
satisfactorily, but that you are desirous of obtaining some of the
more recently-introduced varieties, yet from your limited means you
cannot afford to sacrifice those you have with the intention of
planting fresh ones; then my advice is, inarch — a very simple
operation to perform. Having procured a plant growing in a pot,
with a good ripe rod, place the pot underneath the part on which
you are about to operate, then take a sharp knife and cut away a
thin portion of wood from each of their stems ; let it be done so
THE FLORAL WORLD AXD GARDEN GUIDE. 177
that each part will adhere as closely as possible; then bind them
with bass, after which paste some moist clay on in the same way
you would a graft ; over this place a layer of moss, tying it gently
on ; the latter keeps the whole moist by the aid of the syringe'.
The plant in the pot must not suffer for want of water. It may be
that weeks may elapse before they afford signs of beginning to
unite; when they do, by degrees, but carefully, sever the parts; let
an interval of a fortnight occur, or more, between that and the final
separation from the parent plant. If you observe it suffers from
the first attempt, do not hasten the process. I would not recom-
mend the removal of the clay and moss till the autumn, as,
during the hot months of the summer, it assists the progress of the
adhesion of the parts.
This leads me to remark that, where vines are to be planted on
borders outside of the house, we might select such robust and
vigorous growers as the White Tokay, and afterwards, when they
are established, inarch them with choicer varieties. Some time since
I planted some vines ; among them was one of the latter variety ;
its growth far outstripped the others, so I decided on inarching as
detailed above ; the result is, that I have four good rods that have
borne a profitable crop, and the vigour of the plant is not in the
least degenerated; as, independent of the said number of rods, I still
retain one of the original, and also have one of Muscat Hambro'
which was inarched this time last year.
NEW ROSES OF THIS AND LAST TEAE.
BY W. D. PRIOR.
VTIMATIONS from various quarters have reached me
that some information respecting the new roses for the
current season would not be unacceptable to the rose-
loving public, particularly as the time for constructing
or refurnishing roseries by means of plants out of pots
is at hand. This method of remedying the destruction of winter
will this season, unfortunately, be in general demand, owing to the
wholesale ravages occasioned by the unexpected second and even
third visitation of frost and snow. As far as my own observation
extends, such an amount of havoc amongst roses has not occurred
since that fatal Christmas of 1860-61 — perhaps not even then. With
respect to my own small collection, after having congratulated myself
upon the little injury left by the hyperborean blasts, even upon
slightly-protected Teas, I find now almost every plant cruelly cut
up, and many entirely destroyed. From information received from
other roseries, there is reason to believe this disastrous state of
things is widely diff'used ; so that sufierers must either be at the
expense of renovating their roseries by means of pot plants, or go
without the usual supply of their favourite blossoms till another year.
This demand, however, for pot plants, will have two favourable
TOL. II. — KO. VI. 12
178 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
phases : in the one case it will furnish a deservedly good turn to the
importers and propagators of foreign roses, through whose enterprise
we obtain the valuable acquisitions we from time to time possess ;
in the other, the really new roses of this and the last season will be
brought more rapidly and widely under trial, and thus the good
selected nnd the bad rejected in an unusually short period of time.
Opinions upon untested roses must be offered and received with
considerable qualification. The capriciousness of the flower under
various conditions is such, and the area of observation of new
varieties is so circumscribed among plants usually produced by
grafting in a few weeks, even the old plants if potted up being in a
state of transition from the climate of France to our own, that a
prediction of what they will ultimately turn out, is as hazardous an
attempt as that of prophesying the winner of the Derby or St.
Leger. It may nevertheless be safely pronounced that there are
some valuable introductions amongst the novelties for 18G6-67 ;
and that the previous season deserves to rank with the memorable
era in the Eose calendar of 1862, from the number of fine varieties
brought into our gardens. Alfred Colomb (Lacharme), in its line,
is worthy to rank beside Charles Lefevre, being one of the noblest
specimens of the deep, globular, high-coloured flower, typified by
Senateur Vaisse and Madame Victor Verdier, that has yet been
produced.
In selecting untried roses we must be guided, to some extent, by
the character of the raisers, and among those who have exported
novelties for 1867, Margottin's (a good raiser) does not appear.
Lacharme, again, who has sent us some of the finest we know,
Alfred Colomb and Madame V. Yerdier among others, has only
Thorin, which I have not yet seen in bloom, but which ought to be
speculated upon, on account of the reputation of its originator.
Alha Garnea (Touvais). — Very light; should form part of any
selection of varieties for the year, on account of its colour. We
cannot encourage enterprise too much in this direction, as there are
fewer white or tinted roses of merit than in any other section of
colours.
A)itonie Dncher (Duchev). — Descended from Madame Domage ;
ought to be valuable if it resembles its parent.
Charles Verdier (Guillot pere). — Again as promising, being sent
out by a good raiser, and the seedling of that fine variety, Victor
Verdier.
The following:, in addition, are those which appear to be most
worthy of attention : — Horace Veimet (Guillot filsj, Madame JRival
(Gronod), Madame la Baronne Hausman, Madlle. Annie Wood,, Jfadlle.
Eleanor Grier, J^apoleon III. (all sent out by E. Verdier).
Monsieur Nomau (Guillot pere), seedling from Jules Margottin.
AVhen we call to mind that John Hopper, and Mr. Ward's other
fine loses, are from this excellent parent, and also, if I mistake not,
Mr. W. Paul's admirable rose. Beauty of AValtham, it may reasonably
be expected to turn out one of the best.
Faul Verdier (C. Verdier, a first-rate raiser) must not be passed
by. There are two striped roses, (Eillet Flamand, and Panache
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 170
du Luxejnbourrj . These striped varieties are very pretty v^heu they
come true, but being themselves merely sports, they are apt to
return to their types; a very striking instance of this is given in an
old rose, Madame Campbell, from La Reine ; both flowers may
frequently be seen side by side on the same bush. Cambaceres also
has given birth to a sport, Belle du Printemps, which, unfortunatelv,
seldom comes true. Anne A.lexieff, and more than one other kind
besides, have a constant tendency to exhibit abnormal flakes and
stripes ; and I once saw a prodigious bloom of Clemens Joigneaux,
with large flakes of white resembling a camellia ; could that sporc
have been secured, it would have been one of the most curious and
interesting flowers ever seen.
Madame Margottin (Guillot fils), is a pale, yellow Tea, fuller
than new teas usually are, and will prove most likely an acquisition ;
it may be noted that fewer new roses of merit are produced in this
section than in any other. Laftay has also a new rose in tliis class,
Monsieur Turtado. Anything from Laflay, to whom rosarians are
indebted mainly for the popular and beautiful Hybrid Perpetuals,
deserves a liberal trial. From the description I should imagine it
to have considerable affinity with certain of the IS'oisettes.
Mr. A\^ard, of Ipswich, of " John Hopper" celebrity, has two
new roses : Mrs. JVcwd, from " Jules" and Chabrilland, with the
shape of the latter and colour of the former (what a superb com-
bination !) ; and 3Irs. Johi Berners, which ought, if truly described,
to attain a first-rate position ; also a pillar rose, Ijosivich Gem.
The roses of that distinguished authority, Mr. AVilliam Paul
(who has done so much for the flower), may all be safely included
in any collection. The more recent. Dr. Lindley, Globosa, Lady
Sufiield, and Coeur de Lion, appear equal in merit to the celebrated
Beauty of Waltbam, one of the finest of modern varieties. Tl:e
foliage, in particular, of Dr. Lindley is magnificent ; Globosa is
incurved almost like a ball ; Coeur de Lion was finely shown at the
International.
It is unfortunate that the splendid Golden Marechal TsTiel has
not proved itself sufficiently hardy to withstand such a winter as
this last, without protection. This must be accepted as the general
verdict, whatever may be asserted as to isolated cases. This rose
will be scarce. Nurserymen, from its great demand, generally
cleared out their stocks at an early period, a fortunate circumstance
for them ; unlucky purchasers will have generally lost their plants,
and will require a fresh supply, for which we shall be chiefly
dependent upon Prance.
Of last season's roses, which have undergone a certain amount of
trial, and with respect to hardiness of constitution no slight one, the
following thirteen may be considered the most eligible : —
Alfred Colomh. — As already stated, one of the finest varieties we
have among the high colours.
Charles lioiullard. — Pale rose, globular, somewhat after Louise
Peyronny ; very strong, and rather upright in growth.
Comte Alj^honsc de Serenye. — A "Jules Margottin " sort of
variety.
180 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Comtesse dePalikao. — An acquisition in the light tone of colours.
Gloire cle Duclier. — Eather dull, perhaps.
Josephine Beauliarnais. — Another addition to the light roses, in
which fine and hardy varieties are scarce.
Jean Lambert. — In the Due de Eohan style ; buds egg-shaped.
Perhaps this variety will turn out hard to open.
Madame Fillion. — Fine salmon rose ; an old-fashioned colour, of
"which we have had too few lately — a sort of " cabbage" rose.
Madlle. If. Dombrain. — Another fine light kind.
J^resident Mas. — Fine dark.
Prince de Porcia.- — In the Senateur Yaisse line, promising first-
rate excellence.
L' Exposition de Brie. — Brilliant colour.
Hyppolite Flandrin. — Another somewhat after L. Peyronny.
The above will probably displace many varieties of repute now in
the select catalogues, and occupy a prominent position for some
time to come ; though the number of kinds annually dropped from
cultivation would astonish the uninitiated : a rose must prove itself
acceptable, or go, like other things in this "express" age.
The following is, perhaps, the best list of roses, as known at the
present time, selected from old and new, up to last year : —
n y^^ Hybrid Perjjetuals. — Achille Gonod, Alfred Colomb, Alpaide
^ y^ Rotalier, Baronne Prevost, Beauty of Waltham (W. Paul), Caroline
/ de Sansal, Centifolia Eosea, Charles Lefevre, Charles Eouillard,
Comte de Nanteuil, Comtesse de Chabrilland, Comtesse de Palikao,
Dr. Lindley (Wm. Paul), Duchesse d'Orleans, Elizabeth Vigneron
(Wm. Paul), Exposition de Brie, Gabriel de Peyronny, General
Jacqueminot, Globosa (Wm. Paul), Gloire de Yitry, Hyppolite
Flandrin, Jean Goujon, Jean Lambert, John Hopper, Josephine
Beauharnais, Jules Margottin, King's Acre, La Duchesse de Morny,
La Yille de St. Denis, Lcelia, or L. Peyronny, Le Ehone, Maurice
Bernardin, Madame C. Wood, Madame C. Joigneaux, Madatne
Domage, Madame Knorr, Madame de Cambaceres, Madame Fillion,
Madame E. Yilmorin, Madame Moreau, Madame Eoussett, Madame
Eivers, Madame A^ictor Yerdier, Madame Yidot, Madlle. Marie
Eady, Madlle. Marguerite Dombrain, Marcella, Marguerite de St.
Amand, Olivier Delhomme, Pierre IS'otting, President Mas, Prince
C. de Eohan, Prince de Porcia, Princess of Wales (Wm. Paul),
Senateur Yaisse, Soeur des Anges, Yiscount Yigier, Yictor Yerdier,
Wm. Eollisson, Xavier Olibo.
Bourbon Perpetuals. — Baron Gonella, Catherine Guillot, Emo-
tion, Eev. H. Dombrain.
Bourbons. — Paxton, Malmaison.
Noisette Perpetuals. — Madame Alfred de Eougemont, Louise
Darzins, Pavilion de Pregny.
Noisettes. — America, Celine Forestier, Cloth of Gold, Jaune
Desprez, Lamarque, Marechal Kiel, Triomphe de Eennes.
Teas. — Alba Eosea, Devoniensis and its climbing sport, Gloire
de Dijon, Madame Falcot, Madame Bravy, or its synonyme, Madame
Sertot, Madame Margottin, Madame Wiliermoz, Niphetos, President,
Souvenir d'Elise, Souvenir d'un Ami, Triomphe de Guillot Fils. / \ )
f
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 181
This enumeration is given without reference to hardiness, or
adaptability for soils and situations, but only as to absolute perfec-
tion in the various colours and styles of flower. There is, perhaps,
not a second-rate rose among them all. The catalogues will supply
details for those who wish to make a selection. The information
given in this paper may be considered tolerably reliable, having
been obtained by observation and criticism, in company with those
eminent rosarians, Mr. John Eraser and Mr. Wm. Paul, at their
respective nurseries. On such occasions, every flower undergoes a
rigid examination and discussion, which precludes the escape of much
defect. A rose must be a good one indeed to satisfy such " exigeant"
censorship.
Those who intend to avail themselves of the opportunity of
employing "pot roses" had better lose no time in obtaining them.
The best kind of plants will be those strong plants, on the Manetti
(they cannot be obtained easily of suitable size on their own roots),
in six or eight-inch pots, which are annually potted up in JSTovember
at the great nurseries, for the purpose of early greenhouse culture.
or to fill up summer vacancies. Bear in mind that the soil in which
these are turned out should be free and rich, and that it is cheaper
in the end to have one fine plant than two or three small ones,
although the first cost per plant may appear greater. The
water-pot, with occasional liquid manure, must not be spared. By
the above plan, an abundant supply of roses may yet be obtained
before autumn comes on, with a goodly stock of fine, well-established
bushes for the next season.
CULTIYATION OF THE rUCHSIA.
BY G. WYNESS,
Gardener to Her Majesty at Buckingham Palace.
|HE Fuchsia belongs to the eighth class and first order of
Linnseus; natural order, Onagracese — a very well-defined
order, generally known by its pollen cohering by a sort
of filamentous substance, an inferior polyspermoua
ovarium, a tetracephalous tetrapetalous flower, with a
definite number of stamens and single style. As far as we know,
the Fuchsia Coccinea was the first that was introduced to this
country from Chili in 1788 ; Lycioides was the next from the same
country in 1796 ; Gracilis in 1823 ; and the pretty little Fuchsia
Microphylla from Mexico in 1828. Subsequently a number of
distinct species have been introduced, such as Fulgens, Corymbi-
flora, Serratifolia, and Spectabilis, and so on, all of which have been
eclipsed by the beautiful varieties of the present time. There is a
class of double fuchsias that are now patronized by many people,
but all I can say of the double sorts is that I do not admire them.
182 THE FLOEAL WORLD AIS'D GARDEN GUIDE.
for they always seem to me to be a mass of confusion, and put me
m mind of those mops we see the coachmen cleaning their carriages
with ; but every one admires the object of his own aifection — one
man admires what another despises, it beiug natural for the judg-
ment to favour the inclination in fixiug the character on such as we
admire or despise, and to call that wisdom which in another man's
mind passes for folly.
But I think we may safely presume that the fuchsia is a universal
favourite, and deservedly so, for there are very fe^i^ plants that come
under the care of the floriculturist that are possessed of so many
useful properties for the decoration of the conservatory, the green-
house, the flower garden, or the cottager's window. If we take
into consideration the graceful habit of the plant, the abundance of
its lovely blossoms, the charming variety of colours, and the length
of time it continues in bloom, tliere are very few plants that are
more worthy of general favour. In the propagation of the fuchsia,
or any other plant, we observe that the buds of plants have the
power of developing roots if removed from the parent, and may
thus form a completely independent structure. It is by separating
the buds, and placing them in circumstances favourable to their
growth, that any particular variety of plant may be propagated
more certainly than by seeds. The limits which have been set by
the Creator to the duration of the life of each being that exists at
any one time on the surface of the globe, would cause the earth to
be speedily unpeopled were not a compensation provided in the
faculty of reproduction, or of the formation of a new being similar
to itself possessed by every kind of plant. This power of creating,
as it were, a living structure, with all its wondrous mechanism,
seems more extraordinary and mysterious than any which we else-
where witness ; yet it is not so perhaps in reality. The processes
which are constantly taking place during the life of each being, and
which are necessary to the maintenance of its own existence, are no
less wonderful and no less removed from anything we witness in the
world of dead matter. When the tree unfolds its leaves with the
returning warmth of spring, there is as much to interest and
astonish in the beautiful structure and important uses of these
parts as there is in the expansion of its more gay and variegated
blossoms ; and when it puts forth new buds, which by their extension
prolong its branches over a part of the ground previously unshaded
by its foliage, the process is in itself as wonderful as the formation
of the seed that is to propagate its race in some distant spot.
The best time to propagate the fuchsia from cuttings, for
growing fine specimens the following season, is from the middle to
the end of August ; and always select a young healthy shoot for the
cutting. Avoid the points of shoots from a flowering plant, for
they will not make such fine plants as a young healthy shoot with-
out flower-buds upon it. The best way that I know of is, to select
a plant of each sort we intend to cultivate, and plant them out
about the middle of May, in a well-prepared soil in a shaded situa-
tion ; and, by attention in giving them water when they require it,
and pinching out the points of the shoots to prevent them from
THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 183
blooming, they will furnish a capital supply of fine healthy cuttings.
You will observe that the fuchsia generally produces a pair of leaves
at the node, and a shoot from the base of each leaf; but sometimes
a vigorous plant will produce three leaves and three shoots at the
node, and when these can be obtained, they will always form the
most symmetrical plants; for, if judiciously managed, they will
maintain the same habit during the season's growth. The best ma-
terial for striking the cuttings in is equal parts of leaf-mould and
silver sand — a composition that almost any plant will readily strike
roots in. We strike our cuttings in small thumb-pots, one cutting
in each pot, as they are better to manage in this way than strikini?
a number of cuttings in one pot ; for, let us be ever so careful in.
separating a pot of cuttings, we are almost sure to damage some of
their roots, which must retard the progress of the plant until it can
repair the loss by forming new roots. JSTow, these fibres and their
succulent extremities, which are called spongioles, are the parts by
which alone they absorb or suck up fluid. The fact is, that this ab-
sorption takes place with the greatest rapidity through soft, newly-
forming tissue, and is what gives the spongioles their peculiar power.
They are, in fact, the growing points of the rootlets, which are con-
stantly increasiug in length, and which, in this manner, go in search,
as it were, of the supplies of food of which they have exhausted the
soil that previously covered their extremities.
If the cuttings are put in at the time mentioned, and watered
over the foliage with a tine rose watering-pot, and placed in a close
pit or frame, and shaded from bright sunshine, they will strike root
readily without artificial heat. As soon as they begin to grow, give a
little air to keep the plants healthy, and from being drawn up weakly.
As soon as the young plants are well established in their pots,
they should be removed to a more airy situation, to harden them
for the winter. About the beginning of October they should be
shifted from the small thumb-pot to a sixty-sized pot, which will be
sufhcient to carry them through the winter, as the less growth they
make during that season the better for the future plant. A soil
composed of turfy peat, leaf-mould, and silver sand, equal parts, is
the best for winter potting ; for, being light and porous, it allows
the water to pass ofi" freely. The time for starting the plants into
growth will depend entirely on circumstances. Those who require
to have their plants early in bloom should place them in artificial
heat in the month of January. A temperature of 45' to 50' will
be sufiicient to begin with, and increase the heat as the season ad-
vances. Where there is not accommodation for beginning so early,
the plants will be better at rest till the end of February or begin-
ning of March, for if the plants are started into growth too early,
andthen get a check, they will never do so well afterwards.
AVhen the plauts have made fresh roots, and begin to grow,
allow the soil in the pot to get nearly dry, then turn them out
of their pots, and shake as much of the old mould from them as can
be done conveniently without damaging the roots, and repot them
into well-drained clean pots, in a mixture of turfy loam, turfy peat,
and leaf-mould, equal parts, and add some sand to keep the soil
184 THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
open for the free passage of water, as no plant will do well where
stagnant Avater is lodged about its roots. Water the plants over
the foliage with a fine rose-pot, and place them in a close frame as
near to the glass as convenient, and, as soon as they have taken to
the new soil, and begin to grow, give air whenever the weather will
permit, which is necessary to keep the plants healthy. If the plants
go on well, they will require shifting into larger pots about once in
five or six weeks, till they are showing bloom. During the summer
the plants should be shaded from bright sunshine, for the sun soon
spoils the colours of the flowers, and will sometimes scorch the
foliage of the tender varieties.
In warm weather syringe over the foliage morning and evening,
as the fuchsia delights in a humid atmosphere, and, by using the
syringe freely it keeps the plants clean and healthy, and free from
the attacks of insects. In fact, if the fuchsia is properly managed,
it is seldom infested with any kind of insect ; but the green fly,
which has a taste for almost every kind of plant when in a young
state, will sometimes attack the fuchsia, and will very soon disfigure
the plant if not attended to immediately. A dose of tobacco smoke
in the evening, and syringing well next morning, will clear the
plants of that pest. I have tried Neal's pastilles, and other remedies,
but have found nothing to answer so well for fumigating plants as
tobacco paper.
Any one who proposes training the fuchsia may expect to hear a
good deal of nonsense about sufi'ering the plant to grow as nature
meant it to grow. Nature never meant anything ; but the Author
of nature has imposed training and discipline as a duty. When the
Creator first placed man in the garden, he gave the command to
keep and dress it, and placed a reasoning faculty within him, and
gave him permission to adapt the works of nature to his own wants
and uses. No plant is ever brought to the highest state of perfec-
tion it is capable of without restraint and pruning, and direction
from a fostering hand.
The training of the fuchsia is perhaps as simple as any plant we
grow, for one support to the principal stem is quite sufficient, and
to pinch out the points of the side-shoots as they advance in growth,
to cause the plant to grow bushy, is all that is required.
Some people recommend giving liquid manure to the fuchsia,
but I think if they are grown in the proper material, and regularly
watered with rain or soft water, the decomposing vegetable matter
contained in the soil is all that is necessary for their wants.
No doubt we may produce prodigies of development by the
agency of stimulating manures, but we should remember that one of
the first laws of organic life is, that in order to secure its healthy
function, every organ must be exercised. Lengthened repose is
fatal to its tone, and excessive exertion or irritative action will result
in diminished power or feebleness, placing the plant in a state
unequal to its due measure of physiological action. Surely, then,
it can only require a limited degree of intelligence to perceive that
a regular and moderate supply of nourishment will increase the
aptitude of every organ to perform its peculiar function.
185
A CHAPTER FOE THE LADIES OX GATHERING- AND
ARRANGma FLOWERS.
g'HE reason that people so often fail in arranoing flowers is, that they put
all the brilliancy together, and perhaps relieve it but slightly, or not at
all, with that verdure which abounds everywhere in nature where flowers
must charm us. Many persons go into a garden, and, gathering a lot of
flowers, stick them closely into a vase of some kind, nearly as close, per-
haps, as a broom is tied up. This results from their not seeing the reason vv-hy
prettily marked flowers please us when set, so to speak, in wide spreads of rich
verdure. The result of such a jumble is, that the product is about as attractive to
the tasteful eye as a garden all yellow and red ; and what should be the sweetest
thing in the house is painful to look at compared to a flower and spray depicted on
the vase which contains it, or perhaps on the wall of the room. As a rule it may be
said that, by using a sufficiency of green, we could get rid of much of this awkward-
ness, and though it may not enable people to arrange flowers really well, yet a great
advance is made when we recognize the value of green. If you see a person who is
about to arrange a vase of roses bring in a handful or two of the freshest and finest
rose-leaves in the garden, you may be pretty sure that the roses will not look amiss
when he or she has done with them. When arranging a dish of roses with short
stems, we always begin by putting a circle of large and fine leaves around the edge
(fetu fronds are better), so that their points droop over; and by putting a profusion
of them through the blooms, an infinitely better eff'ect may be produced with half,
or even quarter the number of blooms, than when they are " lumped in." But it is
not enough to avoid what we will call lumping : it is desirable to give each flower
its own place, so to speak. This is to some extent a mechanical operation, as in
vases generally there is no resisting medium on which to place the flowers. You
cannot arrange them rightly without some little contrivance. For a flattish vase or
dish, the best thing we know of is silver, or any other fine sand, in a very moist,
though not actually in a sloppy state. This forms a capital planting medium, so to
speak, and at the same time keeps the flowers fresh — at least, as much so as water
does. By filling the dish or vase with sand, full or thereabouts, and then when
moist rounding it up a little in the middle, you have as good a preparation for the
reception of flowers as can be made. Insert the flower-stems in it to the required
depth, first having pointed them and stripped them of the lower leaves ; and as the
height of each bloom is of some moment, they may often require to be shortened,
which should be done with a sharp knife in a slanting direction, and that will assist
them in penetrating the sand with facility. Ey doing this you have the disposition
of your flowers quite under command. If they be of a trailing or decumbent habit,
it will be necessary to sink them nearly to the necks ; and if they be of an erect or
stiffish habit, like geranium or sweet-pea blossoms, they may be left as long as may
be desired or convenient. Flowers, green leaves, graceful grasses, or any other
addenda, may be thus placed at discretion. If a coat of the common Lycopodium
be placed over the sand, so much the better ; it would act as a capital resting-place
for the flowers, and do away with the necessity of using a good deal of small stuff
to fill up the interstices. Indeed, a lot of long moss or spray of twigs cut to a level
top and plunged in a narrow vase has often been successfully used instead of sand.
Then again, where the receptacle for flowers is very shallow, like the lower tray of
some ornaments for table decoration, a little sand is all that is necessary ; but it
should be borne in mind that such trays are suitable chiefly for flowers that may be
cut short, and for little bunches of forget-me-not, Lycopodium, and things which will
form erect and somewhat compact little tufts, with short fern-spray, etc. Some-
times rather close little wire coverings are used for dishes and vases, and these cer-
tainly support the flowers well, and do away with the slightest necessity for crowding,
but yet are inferior to the soft moist masses of sand. It has just occurred to us that
by growing the common Lycopodium in dishes till it attained luxuriance, and then
bringing them into the house, they would form capital cushions on which to place a
few choice flowers. Indeed, we have no doubt of it. By filling the dish with very
fine sandy peat, passed through a fine sieve, and rounding the centre considerably
up, pricking the common Lycopod over the surface, and placing the vases in a warm
vinery, fernery, or moist and rather warm structure of any sort, in a month or two
they will become masses of green, and droop over the margin of the dish. It may
be propagated thus to any amount, as every bit grows as freely as grass. Half a
186 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
dozen really good flowers inserted in this— and the pointed stems would puss as
readily into it as into the sand— would afford a charming effect ; and with a kw
bits of graceful ferns to counteract the lumpy appearance of the moss, it could not
fail to be admired. The Lycopod would look well for a long time, and when it faded
or became dusty, others could be introduced from the stock so readily propagated.
The dishes should have a hole in the bottom for the water to escape into an outer
case. Of course this is quite inapplicable to costly, tall, or elegant narrow vases,
but it would suit to a nicety low dishes for roses or'any other flowers ; and such are
the most useful for general purposes, as by their judicious use you see the beauty of
the floAvers, and that alone— Avhich is generally a gain. For the tall vases we have
often used sand ; but where they are too fragile or expensive to risk breakage by
filling them with heavy material, it is better to cut a bunch of some kind of spray
—say box, yew, or any small-leavei plant— and trimming it off", put it in the vase,
so that its top is about level with that of the vase, and on that surface the flowers
may be inserted thinly and firmly as you please, and the necessity of making a tight
bundle of flowers is done away with.
From the above it will be seen that we have a horror of the bundling system.
Every flower should stand distinct in the arrangement, and it is also very desirable
to avoid the crowding in of too many colours into the one vase or dish. A few
simple flovv-ers, carefully selected from the woods or ditches— say the hawthorn, the
forget-me-not, the wild grasses, the meadow sweet, the marsh marigold, etc.,— a
select few, observe, not too many kinds, and well arranged — will produce a better
effect than all the flowers and colours of the garden lumped together. Quiet sweet
things, like mignonette, may be used in abundance as a sort of groundwork for the
display of brighter flowers ; and why not bunches of it for insertion into the necks
of vases as well as the evergreen spray we named above ? Decided colours should
generally be grouped distinct from those of a quiet tone ; but so varied are the forms
and colours of the flowers of our gardens, that it would be folly to be tied by any
rule except this : Place the blooms thinly, and in the midst of refreshing verdure, as
Nature does ; the brighter the colour, the more green should, as a rule, be employed.
The procuring, or rather the selecting, of this green is an important point. Ferns of
many kinds are valuable, but many other plants are equally so. Of the ferns, the
apex of the fronds of the common male fern are highly suited for dressing the
margins of large vases, dishes, etc. ; while for more delicate work there are innu-
merable kinds in the way of the maidenhair, and, in fact, every elegant fern may be
used. Where there is much decoration of this kind to be done, it is well to grow a
few of the most suitable kinds in some quantity for cutting at all seasons ; but,
generally, the spray cf the more elegant conifers, such as Cupresses nootkj^nsis and
others, the Arbor-vitses, the neat and pretty new Retinosporas, and, in fact, many
things in this way will be found most valuable. They last much longer, are to be
had in a fresh and green state at all seasons, and often furnish quite as graceful an
effect as the ferns. Some of the better Lycopodiums, too, or Selaginellas, as they
are called, are among the very best things that can be used, and in a warm place
grow as freely as weeds. Finally', the selecting of the flowers and the cutting of
thein is worth a thought. The right way to do it is to gather a few suitable kinds in
distinct little bundles — whether fern, foliage, or flowers— and then, when placed on a
table, the arranger has simply to take the flower or frond he wants — a thing not
easy when all are gathered in a promiscuous bundle. Another word, fail not to use
the Fuchsia and other pendulous flowers for drooping over the margins of all but
the lowest dishes, if you want to produce a charming effect.
Since writing the above we have seen large, very large vases, and very expensive
too (6003 and 7000 francs apiece), in Paris houses, filled tastefully with flowers— a
capital medium for the insertion of the stem being found in rich flakes of deep moss,
a layer well moistened being put in the bottom of the vase, and over that another
layer with only its natural moisture. The flakes of thick moss are placed in just as
they grow, and thus the flower stems pass down into them with the greatest ease.
It must, however, not be supposed from this hint that the French always arrtmge
flowers well ; they do rooms, etc., for festive occasions charmingly, but bouquets are
far more tastefully and beautifully done in Covent Garden. The other day a French
countess presented to Mdlle. Patti a bouquet about the size of a sponging bath ; if
any lady took it about with her it must be in a refined sort of wheelbarrow ; and
many of the best bouquets to be bought in Paris display no taste or knowledge of
arranging flowers. — The Field.
1S7
NEW PLANTS.
;UMPHIA THEOPHRASTA, Theophrasta-liJce Gomphia {Bot Mag. t.
5642). — OchnaceiE. A small stove shrub from South America. The
leaves are oblong-lanceolate, a foot long and three inches broad, re-
curved, acutely serrated. The flowers are one-third of an inch in dia-
meter, in clusters of two to five ; golden yellow.
Epidendrum eburneum, Ivory Floicered Ejjidendrum {Bot. Mag. t. 5643). —
Orchideoe. A handsome stove orchid, from Panama. It is of fine distinct habit,
stems one to two feet high ; leaves alternate and dark green ; flowers consisting of
narrow citron-coloured sepals and petals, and a broad shield-shaped lip of ivory
■whiteness.
Myktus Cheken, Chequen of Chili (Bot. Mag. t. 5644). — Myrtaceae. A pretty
evergreen Chilian shrub, closely allied to Evgenia Luma. It is densely leafy, and
flowers abundantly, the flowers being white and fragrant. Suitable for the greea
house, or a warm wall in the west of England.
C-iiLOGYNE LAGENAKiA, Flagon-liilhed C(flogyne {L'lllust. Sort. t. 510). —
Orchidic. This beautiful and interesting orchid is found in elevated regions of the
Himalaya and Xepaul, and it comes into the category of what are called " cool
orchids." The pseudo-bulb is a remarkable object, and has been variously likened
to a flagon, a bottle, and a gourd ; the flowers are produced immediately upon the
pseudo-bulb, and are at once handsome and curious. The sepals and petals are
nearly equal in size. Their colour a soft lavender, or dove ; the lip is projected in
a pouched form, somewhat resembling the flower of a gloxinia ; it is white on
the outside, with bold bars of deep red on the reverted limb, and within bright
yellow\
Thuxberoia jragraxs, Fragrani-Jloioered Thunlergia {Vlllust. Mort. t. 511).
— A superb stove climber, from India, lately introduced to public notice by Mr.
B. S. Williams. The leaves are elegantly ovate, and obscurely lobed ; the colour a
rich dark green ; the flowers are nearly two inches in diameter, pure white with
yellow centre, deliciously fragrant.
Azalea lndica Francois- Devos {L'lllust. Sort. t. 512). — A semi-double
variety of fine character. The flowers are of great size, finely formed ; the colour
intense deep red, with shades of lake and vermilion,
Ullmus campestris Yar. acrea, G olden-leaved Elm {V III ust. Eort. t. 513). —
A beautiful hardy tree, with richly variegated leaves, the prevailing colour being
gold yellow, deepening to orange and red.
Cat'ileya quadricolor, Four-coloured Caitleya {Vlllust. Eort. t. 514). — A
good figure of this superb New Granada species, which has already had a place in
this department.
Maranta illustris. Splendid maranta (L'lllust. Eort. t. 515). — Marantacese.
This IS a beautiful species, the large, roundish, ovate leaves being riclily barred with
two or three shades of green, and marked with a zigzag zone of white, pale pink,
and blue.
GARDEN GUIDE FOR JUNE.
Kitclien Garden. — The month of May has done but little to help ihe kitchen
garden through its difficulties, for the intense heat which characterized the early
part of the month was followed by intense cold, and every kind of vegetation
suffered, more especially tender seedling plants of broccolis, onions, etc. The warm
rains which commenced on the 26th have been eminently beneficial, and we may
say with assurance now that things are growing. Spinach is one of the most im-
portantof vegetables this season, for so many things having been destroyed, that
which could be depended on for a quick return has had great favour shown it. The
common round-seeded spinach is the quickest of all. The perpetual spinach beet is
a good vegetable to sow on hot soils, where comicon spinach runs quickly to seed,
188 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
and if sown now will be useful at the end of July, and thence to September ; only a
few leaves at a time must be taken from each plant. Sow a k\v more lettuces oa
heavily manured ground, and do not transplant them ; sow thin. Stir the ground by
flat hoeing between potatoes, and draw a little of the rough crumbs to their stems ;
but do not mould them up, as is usually done, for the operation only tends to re-
move the tubers further from the influence of sunshine than is good for them. If
vegetable marrow plants are not to be obtained, sow seed on a well-manured bed, in
patches of three seeds each, five feet apart, and you will have plenty of marrows
before the 1st of August. Make a plantation of the forwardest winter greens, and
at every opportunity plant out from seed beds. "Weeds grow luxuriantly, and if
allowed to riot, will ruin any crop.
Floiver Garden.— k\\ the more tender kinds of sub-tropical and other bedding
plants may now be planted out, the majority of such things delight in shady posi-
tions and a rich mellow soil. All kinds of plants may now be propagated with
facility by putting cuttings in pots and shutting them up close in frames, or even
placing them under the stage in the greenhouse. Cuttings of geraniums put in a
sunny border will make nice plants this season, and will be quite gay in August
and September. This is the best time to propagate pinks, carnations, and picotees
by pipings. They must be put in a shady place. Valuable sorts should be put in
pots, and placed on a gentle bottom heat in a frame. This is the best time in the
whole year to begin the cultivation of hardy herbaceous plants from seed, as there
is ample time for the plants to become strong for the winter. Asters are largely
used to make a succession to stocks and other subjects that cease to be beautiful
before the summer is over. The simplest way of dealing with asters now is to
plant them where they are to remain. If the border intended for them is much
infested with vermin, plant out a few lettuces from a seed-pan at the same time. In
every case in planting asters, dahlias, hollyhocks, and other subjects that snails and
woodlice are fond of, it is a good plan to plant lettuces at the same time, as the
vermin will go to the lettuces first, and while eating them, the more valuable
subjects will grow out of the succulent condition in which they are most relished by
vermin. Put stakes to whatever is likely to require it at the first opportunity, for
we never know when a gale may rise and make ruin of all our garden labours, if
we have not provided in time against such a contingency.
Fruit Garden. — Pinching the shoots of apple, pear, and plum trees may still be
pursued with ardour ; small trees laden with large crops must be relieved by
thinning. Give potted trees abundance of water. In gathering gooseberries take
some from each tree, so that there will only be a few on each left to ripen. Those
few will attain a large size, and have a fine flavour ; and if there are many trees to
gather from, the dessert will be well supplied. But if the entire crop is left on any
tree to ripen, the berries will be all small and comparatively flavourless. This is a
hint worth the attention of lovers of ripe gooseberries.
Greenhouse. — Put as many subjects in the open air as possible ; it is astonishing
how much better many greenhouse plants look after a month or two in the open-air
in summer time. Plants in bloom in the house last longer if cool and shaded. All
plants that bloomed early and have been cut back should be allowed to make shoots
a quarter of an inch long before they are repotted, but they should be repotted at
that stage. A few good ferns, palms, balsams, and zonale geraniums are of great
value now to make the conservatory agreeable j indeed, the zonale geraniums are
pre-eminently valuable for this purpose.
*:jt* Past issues of the Floral Woeld contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Gabdex Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year.
NEWS OF THE MONTH.
The Paeis Exhibition is now in a ver}' complete state, and the lovers of horti-
culture will find plenty to admire, and perhaps much from which instruction may
be derived, in the Pare and the Central Garden. To say nothing of the model
villages, the imitation rockeries, waterfalls, and mountains, the collections of trees,
succulent plants, and other specialities, a;:e worthy of the fullest attention and the
THE FLORAI. WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 189
loudest praise. The collection of coniferous trees is not only superb for number and
variety, but it would be a most difficult matter to match them in quality. The
highest place in order of merit has been assigned to the most noble of the Arbor-
vita) family, Thuja gigantea ; and the tree pronounced the best amongst the
novelties of the order is the pretty Retinospora fillifera. A most remarkable
display of cactuses has been made by various cultivators, but prominent amongst
tliera is Mr. Pfersdorf, of Kensall Ne\y Town, who supplies Covent Garden Market
with those pretty miniature cactea? which look so attractive in bright red pots of
the size of thimbles. So again in the fruit department, the various examples of
training fruit trees constitute an admirable exhibition. Another speciality is an
exhibition of Wells's patent portable ground vineries, with bunches of grapes lying
on the slates that form the ground-floor of these structures. Some workmen's
dwellings have been constructed of walls made of mixtures of flints, stones, broken
bricks, etc., and cement. A couple of boards are put a certain distance apart,
and the mixture is poured in. As soon as it is hard, the boards are raised and
another piece is added, and in due time a waterproof and substantial wall is con-
structed at about a third part of the cost of a similar wall of bricks. In the central
garden there is a beautiful display of bedding plants, palms, tree ferns, and other
noble subjects, respecting which we shall hope to say a few words hereafter.
Royal Botanic Society. — The third spring show of this society was scarcely
so attractive as the first and second ; nevertheless, there were on this occasion some
interesting subjects, notably Auriculas from Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, and Messrs.
Dobson and Son, of Isleworth. Pot and cut roses were shown in plenty, and there
were collections of pansies, tulips, and pelargoniums. In the classes for stove and
greenhouse plants, Mr. Burley, of Pembridge Place, presented some superb palms and
flowering plants. Mr. B. S. Williams, of HoUoway, exhibited numerous orchids,
ferns, and yuccas. Mr. Bull, of Chelsea, sent a number of new plants. Con-
spicuous amongst the novelties was a new bedding pansy, called Imperial £hie,
from Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing ; the colour of this is bright blue, and it
flowers profusely. Roses—'M.essrs. Paul and Son put up a splendid group, com-
prising— Le Rhone, Madame Willermoz, Alba rosea. Souvenir d'Elise, Madame de
Stella, Souvenir d'un Ami, Madame Boutin, Lord Raglan, and President. From
the same, three new roses ; the varieties were Duchesse de Caylus, Princess Mary of
Cambridge, and Fisher Holmes. Mr. Turner took a good place with a group com-
prising Aipaide de Rotalier, Madame Willermoz, Lord Clyde, Souvenir d'un Ami,
Charles Lawson, Celine Forestier, Victor Verdier, Professor Koch, Marechal Vaillant.
Mr. Turner's group of three new roses consisted of Duchesse de Caylus, Marechal
Niel, admirably done, the colour pure yellow ; Madlle. Margaret Dombrain.
Messrs. Lane and Son, of Berkhamstead, Herts, presented Duchesse de Morny,
Vicomte Vigier, Louise Darzins, PieiTe Notting, Anna Alexieff", Madame Victor
Verdier, Jean Goujon, Madame Alfred de Rougemnnt, Comtesse de Chabrilland.
Messrs. Lane and Sons new roses were Duke of Wellington, Marcella, and Dr.
Andry. Messrs. Lane and Sons put up a collection of pot roses in addition to the
foregoing. In the amateur class there were some admirable contributions. Mr.
James, gardener to F. W. Watson, Isleworth, had a group of six, comprising Baronne
Prevost, .Madame Charles Wood, Anna de Diesbach, Jules Margottin, John Hopper,
Fran9oi3 Lacharme. Mr. Wiggins, gardener to W. Beck, Esq., Isleworth, had John
Hopper, Gloire de Dijon, Anna Alexiefi", Baronne Prevost, Princess Clothilde,
Catherine Guillot. Pansies — Mr. James exhibited a beautiful stand of twenty-four
cut blooms, comprising Noir, Chancellor, Mussefl"el, Cupid, Novelty, Tennyson,
Arab, Invincible, George Wilson, General Lee, Dux, Cherub, Rev. H. Dombrain,
Miss Cochrane, J. B. Downie, Harry, Concord, Masterpiece, Princess of Wales,
Norma, Ladyburn Beauty, Blink Bonny, Jessie, Czar. Mr. James also exhibited
twelve pot pansies. Mr. Hooper, of Widcombe Hill, Bath, exhibited cut blooms
and pot plants. Mr. Wiggins maintained his well-established reputation as a culti-
vator of the Pelargoniums, his group of six being admirably trained, well out, and
of course fresh as the spring ; the varieties were Monte Christo, Vestal, Roseum,
Beadsman, Pline, and another. Mr. James presented Herbaceous Calceolarias in
the same matchless style as heretofore ; the varieties were Charles Dickens, Grati-
tude, Lord Derby, Lavinia, Master Farrell Watson, Louise. Collections of Auriculas^
both of exhibition and Alpine varieties, were shown by Mr. Turner, Messrs. Dobson
and Son, Mr. James, Mr. Butcher, and Mr. Cox. Mr. Turner's best six were
Smith's General Bolivar, Dickson's Duke of Kent, Spalding's Metropolitan, Smith's
190 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Lycurgiis, Lif^litbody's Fair Maid, Chapman's Sophia, ilr. James presented a bean-
tiful group of hardy ferns.
South Metropolitan Auricula Society.— The members of this society lield their
fifth annual exliibition on Thursday, the 25th of April, at Mr. J. Butcher's, South
Street, Camberwell. Seedlings— '^r. J. Butcher was awarded a first-class certificate
for a green edge seedling, Mrs. Butcher, and a first-class certificate for a self seedling,
John Penn ; Mr. John Pink, of Gotha Cottages, Cobourg Roid, a first-class certi-
ficate for a green edge seedling, Annie ; also a first-class certificate for a grey edge
seedling, JEliza ; and a second-class certificate for a white edge seedling, Miss Oliver.
In the class for Seedling Alpines, Mr. J. Butcher took a first-class certificate for
Jane Webster, Zadi/ Middleton, and Rifleman; J.Ir. Pilcher, first-class certificate
for a seedling Alpine, Emma. llr. J. Butcher had Premier Prize for Lightbody's
Robert Traill, very fine eight plants, Mr. J. Butcher, first with Traill's Ceneral
Neill, Traill's May Flowei-, Dickson's Duke of Cambridge, Ashworth's Xewton
Hero, Lightbody's Robert Traill, Smith's Britannia, Wyld's Bright Phoebus, Martin's
Mrs. Sturrock. Second prize, Mr. Pink, with Page's Champion, Olliver's Lovcly
Ann, Cockup's Eclipse, Sykes's Complete, Waterhouse's Conqueror of Europe.
Lightbody's Alma, Galrn's Model, xMartin's Mrs. Sturrock. First best six, Mr. J.
Butcher, with Page's Duchess of Oldenburgh. Ashton's Prince of Wales, Headley's
Stapleford Hero, Barlow's Morning Star, Ashworth's Regular, Butcher's King of
the Crimsons. Second, Mr. Pink, Olliver's Lovely Ann, Page's Defiance, Grime's
Privateer, Waterhouse's Conqueror of Europe, Lee's Bright Yenus, Popplewell's
Conqueror. Four plants, Mr. J. Butcher, Olliver's Lovely Ann, Headley's Staple-
ford Hero, Ashworth's Regular, Spalding's Metropolitan. Collection of twenty-four
plants ; Mr. J. Butcher. There was a good show of Alpines, Polyanthuses, etc., etc.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Ground Vinery. — A. JS. — The Black Prince vine sent you is generally con-
sidered the very best that can be planted in a groiind vinery. We have generally
recommended the Black Hamburg, from having seen it produce superb crops in
these vineries, but Black Prince is a more general favourite.
TiioP-^OLrMs, King of Scarlets, axd Scarlet Gem. — A. M. wi-ites as follows :
" Having ordered packets of Tropffiolum seed, ' King of Scarlets,' and ' Scarlet Gem,'
which were so strongly recommended in the Floral World, I v/ish to know if
they are very vigorous in growth, and at what distance apart the plants ought to be
put in a bed, and whether the two would do to mix in the same bed." — It is a fre-
quent mistake of lady gardeners to suppose that all plants can be raised from seeds
equally well as from cuttings. It is true that thousands of xiseful plants are finer
when grown from seed than any other way ; but in the case of all named garden
varieties, such as these tropaeolums, such as any of the named geraniums, verbenas,
etc., etc., the plants must be grown from cuttings, if uniformity of growth and
colour are desired. The men who raise these varieties in the first instance grow
immense numbers from seed, and having selected such as are worthy to be named,
they destroy all tlie rest. The fact of their destroying them should suggest to
amateurs that there is so much uncertainty about tlm produce of seed, that in the
case of flowers of which named varieties abound, seedlings should be grown only as
matter of experiment, and not at all with a view to the employment of the
plants in a bedding displar. Probably, the plants raised from seeds of these
tropaeolums may be very uniform and very good, but they may be very various and
very bad. We fully expect they will be, upon the whole, good, for the Compactum
race, to which they belong, produces a very showy race of seedlings. But we wish it
to be understood that we have not recommended the sowing of seed of these plants,
and that we never recommend the sowing of seeds of garden varieties, unless there
are special and peculiar reasons for it. As to these tropseolums in particular, they
may be planted a foot apart, and the two sorts will do very well together in the
same bed.
Bebberis. — J. J. — Tlie leaf you send is like B. Nepalensis, Have you that ?
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 191
Do you know it ? We shall be most ^lad to determine the species, but from a leaf
only it is not an easy matter. If the plant from which yours was obtained has been
ten years out of doors, then it certainly is not Xepalensis, for that would have been
killed by frost in 1860 and in 1867. "The three distinct forms of B. Japonica are
easily distinguished by those who are used to them, but it is no easy matter to
furnish rules for distinguishing them. The best off-hand characters we can give
are as follows :— The true Japonica is of spreading habit, and gets up slowly, has
very broad leaves, and more or less yellow mixed with the green of the leaf.
B. Bealii runs up fast, and makes a tall plant, but does not spread much, and has
less yellow in its colouring. B. intermedia is exactly intermediate between ths
other two. We should be greatly obliged if you could favour us with a leaf and
flower each of B. concinna and B. pallida. The late severe winter removed from
our collection B. glumacea, B. Hookeriana, and much injured B. Fortune!, B.
Jameson ii.
Davallias. — F. M. S. — You ask as if you thought it a rule for Davallias to die out
in the centre of the pot while still alive all round. It is not the rule for them to do
so, and we suspect that yours have been subjected to a drip of water, which has
killed the centre of the plant during the winter. They may recover all their former
beauty if left alone, but were they ours, we should certainly repot them. To do
this is an easy matter enough. Prepare a compost consisting of four parts fibrous
peat chopped to the size of walnuts, one part silver sand, and one part broken
pots of the size of hazel nuts, with all the dust resulting from the chopping
and breaking. Mix together thoroughly. Have new or quite clean pots for the
plants, put in crocks to fill one-fourth the depth of the pots ; turn out the plants,
shake the soil from them, and with a sharp knife cut them into pieces, so as to
remove all the dead rhizomas, and make nice pieces of them. Keep as many good
roots as possible, but such roots as have been travelling round and round the pots,
and which you cannot spread out in repotting, cut away entirely. As for the
arrangement of the rhizomas, you must use your own judgment and taste. When
you have placed them to suit you, fix them in their places with pegs, and fill in the
soil amongst their roots tolerably firm. Place them in a dark, warm place — a gentle
hot-bed will do, if you have no other — but they must be screened from sunshine.
Give no water at the roots, but twice a da}'' send over their leaves a light shower
from a syringe, and enough of this will reach the roots for at least a fortnight, to
afford all the moisture they require.
Rhododexdkoxs. — F. S. W. — You do not give us the least idea where you
date from, so that we cannot judge if there be any local circumstances to interfere
with the flowering of your rhododendrons. You say the " common rhododendron
blossoms beautifully here ;" but where is " here ?" It is very probable, we think,
that you have the "crimson and Avhite rhododendi-ons," that is to say, the hybrids
of Catawbiense, in a soil quite unsuitable for their well-doing. The " common,"
that is to say, the Pontic rhododendron, will thrive in almost any soil, but is not
worth a place in a good garden ; but the garden varieties require good sandy peat,
and do far better in a rather moist, shady position, than in the full sun. If yours is
a hot, dry soil, the proper way to make a rhododendron-bed will be to excavate a
great hollow, and line it with clay ; then within the clay to lay down a bed of peat,
and plant in that. Wlien finished, it ought to be a little below the general level.
The cultivation of the rhododendron is not everywhere understood, as witness those
planted on banks in the Kensington garden of the Royal Horticultural Society, and
which have been perishing from the day they were put there.
Names of Plants. — A". C. i.— The plant growing on the old wall appears to
be Geranium pusillum, but from the mite you send it is impossible to determine it
with certainty. — E. W. A. O. — Your pretty shrub is Ceanothus azureus.
Books. — C W. P.— For the society to be formed, a few good periodicals would
be necessary as well as books. It is a good thing to gather people together fre-
quently, and keep them interested in things of the day, and to this end periodicals
are a great help. We should recommend the Gardener's Chronicle^ the Gar-
dener's Magazine^ and no other weekly horticultural work. Amongst the
monthlies, L' Illustration Horticole and the Botanical Magazine should have
place. To your list of books add Lindley's Theory of Horticulture, Gkindon's
British Garden Botany (a capital book for every amateur gardener and botanist),
Du Bkueil's Practice of Grafting and Training, Williams's Orchid Grower's
Manualf Hibbekd's Rose ^ooA,*^ and Profitalle Gardening^ and the first eight
192 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
volumes of the Floral World. There are, of course, many more desirable books,
but these should be in the first list.
Hardy Herbaceous Plants.— I am afraid that the request I have to make
may prove troublesome ; but I really cannot be offended if you decline to answer it,
for then I must watch your pages aUentively. I have a small garden, and enclose
a list of what plants I have in it ; but occasionally I am for a short time without
bloom, especially in the spring. Can you recommend a iQvr cheap herbaceous
plants to fill up those voids, and thereby greatly oblige — E. A. Moss Rose, Snow-
drop, Winter Aconite, Siberian Scillas, Crocus, Pansies, Colchicura vernum, Hepa-
ticas, Triteleia uniflora, Blue Anemone, Daisies, in sorts ; Tulips, early and late ;
Alpines, or Baziers ; Yellow Primrose, Wallflowers, Iberis semperflorens, Aubrietia
Campbelli, Violets, Hyacinthus Nonscriptus, Carnations, Picotees and Pinks, Nar-
cissus poetica, Moutan Pseony, Auricula-eyed Sweet William, Perpetual Roses,
in quantity ; Iris Germanica, Gentiana septemfida, Cheiranthus, in variety ;
Yellow Alyssum, CEnothern Missourensis, Fritillarias, Andromeda, Trollius Arceri-
canus, Phloxes, Saxifrages, Sedums, Bulbocodium vernum, Trumpet Lil}^, Gla-
diolus, Lilium lancifolium. Verbenas, Pentstemons, Lobelias, Colchicum autum-
nale. — [This is a very good list of E. A.'s, and may be useful to many of our
readers. As there is a lack of spring flowers, we recommend the addition of the
following : — Orobus vernus forms a bush-like mass, and is covered with purple
flowers in April ; Myosotis sylvatica, and M. alpestris, blooming freely in April and
May, and far surpassing in beauty the most costly jewellery. Plant patches of syl-
vatica wherever places can be found for them. Polyanthuses are not in the list.
Sow seed now, cr better still, buy a few hundred plants of Mr. Webb, of Calcot
Gardens, Reading. Narcissus bulbocodium is one of the best of all the spring
flowers. Nepeta violacea takes up the tale in blue when the spring flowers are just
over. Herbaceous pseonies come in at the same time superbly. Allium ursinum is
a pretty white flowering plant to flower at the same time as yellow Alyssum and
perennial Iberis. Anemone fulgens is a grand scarlet-flowering species for the
spring, scarce but invaluable. Aquilegias are also desirable, and all the kin^ls arc
good. Where established they sow themselves, and continually increase, and they
are at their best in May. Arabis alpina is not in the list ; it is indispensable for
sheets of white in April and May. Geranium sanguineum is a charming thing to
flower from the 1st of May to the end of August. Corydalis bulbosa presents its
pretty purple flowers in April. Dondia epipactis should be in the list, though it
flowers in March. If E. A. consults the O'Shane's lists many more good things may
be found.]
AucuBA HiMALAicA. — I obscrve in the Floral World, in an article by you on
the Aucubas, the following remark on A. Himalaica: — "This appears to be quite
hardy, but has not, as far as we are aware, been fully tested as to its ability to
undergo the rigours of this climate." Now last June I placed in the open ground a
young plant of Himalaica, which stood all the rigour of the winter, without suffer-
ing in the least degree, and, too, after the hard weather had departed, pushed forth
its new leaves in a most vigorous manner. Close to this plant, Garrya elliptica,
JBuddlea globosa^ CeanotJius azureus, and Laurestinus, were cut to the ground, the
two first destroyed, root and branch. No doubt you will hear from other quarters,
but I thought you would like to have as much evidence as possible as to the hardi-
ness of the plant. — J. J., Winqham, Kent.
Hardiness of Salsify. — My attention was directed to this root by an article in
your April number. I sowed abed of it, and a bed each of parsnips, three sons of
carrots, and of scorzonera on the 8th of April. About the middle of May the beds
■were all green, showing a good plant. On the 23rd of May we had a bitter frost, wliich
destroyed all the young carrots, parsnips, and scorzonera, but left the salsify unhurt.
I am greatly obliged to you for suggesting the cultivation of this root, which I have
frequently heard of as a delicious vegetable when properly cooked. I think its
hardiness a great point in its favour. — T. R. [We sowed salsify on the 20th of
February, and the bed is evenly covered with strong plants after four severe frosts.
At Stoke Newington, all the early sown seeds, with the sole exception of the salsify
were destroyed by frost, and had to be sown again on the 2nd of May.]
THE FLOKAL WORLD
AND
GAEDEN GUIDE.
JULY, 1867
ARTIFICIAL STONE EOR GARDENS.
[0 find a reliable and elegant substitute for stone is a
matter of the highest importance in the laying out and
embellishment of gardens. In the formation of terraces
and in every variety of architectural garden, as also in
the formation of gardens in town, it is next to impos-
sible to do well without employing stone, or a substitute for it. As
a rule, stone is too costly to be extensively used in gardens, and in
the most richly-furnished places we find curbs, statuary, urns,
fountains, and vases made of iron or sham stone, of various degrees of
merit, there being no hesitation at all on the part of the proprietors of
great gardens in employing the cheapest material obtainable for the
purpose, the admitted costliness of stone making an end of all shame
on the subject. A man of means and taste would not care to put a
plaster urn in his entrance-hall, or a cast-iron vase upon the stair-
case in his mansion, but in the garden he will countenance them, for
the climate is not kind to marble, and custom sanctions the imitation
of it.
The grand question for practical men is, whose or what particular
preparation is the best where real stone cannot be employed ? There
are several varieties of artificial stone offered to the public, but three
of them occupy a prominent place in the competition for favour, and
they are respectively known as Austin and Seeley's, Rosher's, and
Ransome's. The product of the last-named manufacturer has been
frequently recommended in these pages, and we are induced once
more to direct attention to it, for the patentee, Frederick Ransome,
Esq., has recently adopted a new method of manufacture, which
results in the production of a beautiful material, at a considerably
cheaper rate than heretofore.
At the time of writing this, we have just returned from a visit
to the works of the Patent Concrete Stone Company, at East
Greenwich, where Mr. Ransome's new process is being carried out.
About a hundred scientific men were invited to witness the process
of manufacture, and the unanimous opinion was, that a most im-
portant advance had been made, not only in the production of a
VOL. II. — NO. YII. 13
194 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
material possessing the colour and mechanical texture of stone, but
also of producing it in endless variety of embellit>hment, the articles
produced being as strikingly characterized by elegance and appro-
priateness of design as by the hardness and imperishability of the
material. During our inspection of the process, we learned that the
''Patent imperishable siliceous stone," which has long been considered
the brightest textured and most perfect imitation of stone hitherto
produced, is now quite superseded by the " Patent concrete stone,'*
which is so much cheaper than all other kinds, that there can be
little doubt it will-very soon be universally employed, not only in
gardens for vases, fountains, edgings, and balustrades, but also by
builders for cornices, facings, and wherever a cheap imitation of
stone would be preferred to brick or plaster. Mr. Ransome's new
discovery is, no doubt, the result of the diflSculties that attended
the manufacture of his siliceous stone, and an illustration, therefore,
of the adage, "Necessity is the mother of invention!" The old
process consisted in working up a mass of siliceous grit into the
required form, and then injecting into it a eolution of caustic alkali.
The mass was then subjected to heat, and a sort of glassy cement
was produced throughout, which not only gave the mass its co-
herence, but also that bright, half-sparkling character by which it
differs in appearance from every other kind of artificial stone. The
process was tedious, though the result was admirable ; a beautiful
material was produced, but the inventor was dissatisfied with his
method, and commenced a series of experiments with a view to
abolish, if possible, the employment of heat in the manufacture,
without sacrificing any of the good qualities of the original com-
pound. His success has more than justified the cost and labour
incurred in the discovery of the new method of manufacturing stone.
The first process consists in compounding together sand, stone-dust,
and silicate of soda, the last-named material being in the form of a
viscous fluid. The mixture is placed in the moulds, and is then
saturated with chloride of calcium, and the whole mass is at once
solidified and cemented together — as effectually solidified and
cemented as in the recently-introduced mixture of hard rubbish with
Portland cement, which is coming into use for the constrrction of
cheap, waterproof, indestructible walls. The Patent Concrete Stone,
thus produced in the first instance, is of a close granular texture and
a clear grey colour ; it has, in fact, all the appearance of a good white
marble. It is, however, at first somewhat soft, so that when new it
would not be fair to put it to a severe test, with a view to ascertain
its strength ; but it is always improving with age, and eventually
becomes as hard as flint through the action of the atmosphere, which
converts the chloride of calcium into a silicate of lime, rendering
it more and more valuable the older it becomes.
Although we learnt these particulars during our visit to the
manufactory a few days since, we were not then, for the first time,
made acquainted with the properties of the patent concrete stone.
In the year 1863, when Mr. Ransome first discovered the new process,
he prepared for us a handsome moulding for the front court of the
experimental garden at Stoke Newdngton, and this moulding is at
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 195
the present time one of the most beautiful objects of its kind we
have ever jet seen, and contributes, in a great degree, to the beauty
and richness of the display which is made by means of the plunging
system. It has been subjected to severe frosts, but is quite unhurt ;
its flowery tracery is as sliarp and brio^ht as at first, and the material
has become as hard as adamant. Hidden amongst some shrubs are
a few blocks of this moulding that were left over after the work was
done, and have there been exposed to all weathers for a period of
four years. They are black with dirt, but in other respects they
are as perfect as when turned out of the moulds, and it would
apparently be no easy matter to break them. One of these was
submitted to the examination of the gentlemen who were assembled
at the works on the 21st of last month, and pronounced a most
satisfactory example of the capabilities of the concrete stone to resist
the destructive influences of the weather in this country. S. H.
ADIANTUMS OF THE STOYE.
|T page 173 I completed the list of the most useful hardy
and greenhouse Adiantums, and, according to the
promise there made, I now attempt a selection from
the stove kinds. I feel bound to say, however, that I
have grown all the stove kinds in warm greenhouse
temperature with the most complete success, and have tried many
in closed cases, and found them grow luxuriantly without the aid of
artificial heat even in severe winters. The remarks on cultivation
at pp. 169 and 170 apply, without any exception, to the species and
varieties now to be noticed.
A. caudaticm. — Once-divided grey-green gracefully arching
fronds, each tapering to a point, where a little bulbil plant is
produced. Scarce and curious, a good fern to grow in a small
suspended basket.
A. concinnum. — A most lovely maidenhair fern, with elegantly-
notched pinnules of a rich metallic green when mature, but tinged
with pale rose when young. It grows into a fine bold tuft, and
makes fronds eighteen inches in length, when liberally treated. It
has been tried here in a cool house several years in succession, and
has not once survived the winter, so we may fairly reckon it one of
the most tender of the family. It is important in the cultivation
of this fern never to wet the fronds, as it causes them to break off
close to the crown. A. concinnum is deciduous, and must be kept
nearly dry after it has lost its fronds until the new crop appears.
A. cristatum. — The true cristatum has light distantly-divided
fronds, the pinnae of which are lance-shaped, and furnished on each
side of the rachis with oblong ovate pinnules. Stipes and rachis
distinctly purple, pinnules fresh full green. It is scarce and pretty,
decidedly tender, well adapted for a warm Wardian case.
A. cultratum. — A splendid exhibition species, closely allied to
A. trapeziforme, and a good companion to that splendid fern. The
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 197
fronds are pale green, the pinnules oblong and pointed. It requires
rather liberal pot room, and a soil abounding in siliceous grit.
A. Cunninghami. — This is generally understood to be the same
as A. furmosum; but that is a mistake. It is here figured from a
New Zealand specimen, for which I am indebted to my friend, Mr.
Eobert Porsaith. Xot only are the pinnules larger and more dis-
tinctly serrated on the superior margin, than those of formosum, or
its near ally, affinc, but the plant is more tender than either of those
species, and I feel compelled to separate it from its congeners as a
true stove species. At the same time it must be understood that the
stove is not essential, as it will thrive in the greenhouse ; but is more
likely to die in winter, if da.mp and cold, than such as cuneatum,
afiine, formosum, etc. The fructification is very distinct and pretty.
A. curvatum. — It is a difficult point to settle which is the most
beautiful species of the genus Adiantum, but in any severe com-
parison the one now under notice will have a large claim to the
highest place. It is of delicate habit, with black stipes and rachis —
in other words, black stalks ; and the pinnse radiate from a centre,
and consist of long curved pinnules, which are serrated on the upper
margin. The colour is bright, almost emerald green ; but the plant
always presents several shades, paler when young fronds are rising,
and darker where the matured pinnules overlap each other. This
fern enjoys a good heat, with shade and abundant moisture.
A. Farleijense. — A scarce but already celebrated fern, which, at
the International Exhibition of 1866, was considered the most valu-
able contribution of all in the classes for fine-foliaged plants. I
have not grown it, but have seen it in several collections, and it
appears to be of robust habit, so that when generally distributed it
will be a great favourite. This is related to A. trapeziforme ; its
distinctive property is the large size and deeply-laciniated margins
of the pinnules. It forms one of the most beautiful specimens ever
staged in a conservatory or exhibition.
A. intermedium. — A very distinct species, the fronds one to two
feet in length, with dark stipes and rachis, usually presenting three
pinnae, the terminal one larger than the rest. The pinnules are
ovate, oblong, and wedge-shaped at the base ; when young, of a rosy
colour ; when mature, bright yellowish-green, and bearing prominent
brown sori on their margins. This fern likes a good heat, and
though it may be grown in a greenhouse, it is safest to transfer it to
a cool part of the stove during winter.
A. lucidum.—k. pretty little species, with tapering fronds and
entire lance-shaped pinnae, of a bright green colour when mature,
but rosy when young. This is a difficult fern to grow, and, though
evergreen, it invariably becomes disfigured in winter. Every kind
of vermin will find it out and prey upon it, unless great care is
taken in its preservation ; it is, therefore, not adapted for beginners.
A. lunidatum. — A most elegant species, with long whip-like
once-divided fronds, and dark crescent or kidney-shaped pinna? of a
delicate pale-green colour. This is well adapted for suspending, but
requires great care to keep it. During winter it should be placed
in a warm part of the stove, and have but little water ; yet must
never be quite forgotten, or allowed to become quite dry.
198 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
A. macropliyllum. — A handsome and distinct species, which may
at first sight be mistaken for a Pteris. The pinna) are large ; those
which produce sori are acutely oblong, and wedse-shaped at the
base; the sterile pinnae are irregularly hastate. AYhen young, the
fronds are of a rich rosy hue ; when mature, yellowish-green. This
is fond of warmth, and rarely survives the winter in a cool house.
A, reniforme. — A beautiful species, with kidnej'-shaped fronds,
figured and described at page 241 of the eighth volume of the Floral
World. The plant there noticed as thriving in a closed case with-
out the aid of heat, is now a fine specimen with large fronds in
perfect health. It will grow in any greenhouse if kept warm and
shaded, and may always be covered with a bell-glass to advantage.
A. asarifolium. — A large edition of A. reniforme, with fronds
quite circular and three inches across. This is the best of the two
for exhibition.
A. tenerum. — This may be regarded as a greatly-enlarged form of
A. cuneatum. It is light, elegant, yet grand in character, and one
of the best for exhibition. Cool treatment does not suit it, but
otherwise it is easy enough to manage.
A. sulpliureum. — An exquisite golden-colour maidenhair fern of
rather small growth. The fronds are regularly divided, tripinnate,
the pinnules cuneate at the base, reniform on the upper edge, where
they are densely crowded with sori. The upper side of the frond is
a shining green, the under side is covered with farina of a gold
yellow colour. Messrs. Veitch and Son honoured me with a plant
of this rare species very shortly after its introduction, and I have
therefore been enabled to give some attention to its habits and require-
ments. It must have stove temperature, must be sheltered from
sun and draughts of air, requires less water than the generality of
Adiantums, and, like the powdered Nothochla^nas, quickly suffers if
either too dry or too wet. It is very scarce and dear, but, as it
produces abundance of spores, will, no doubt, soon become plentiful.
A. trapeziforme. — A beautiful species, and a general favourite.
The fronds are pedate, forming a nearly perfect semicircle of pinnae ;
the pinnules very large, irregularly four-sided or trapeziform ; their
colour a beautiful bright light green. When well grown, the fronds
attain a length of three to four feet. A very desirable fern, quite
essential in a collection, however small, which embraces species
requiring the stove.
A. Wilsoni. — A curious and most beautiful species. The fronds
are divided into three to five pinnae, which are reniform or cordate,
sometimes elegantly ovate, and always of a hard leathery texture.
The colour is a fresh, delicate shade of grass-green, rendered more
beautiful by the distinctly-forked veins. This fern will not thrive
out of the stove, and under the best treatment is, in common with
most other Adiantums, shabby in the winter. The splendid characters
of these ferns during summer amply compensates for their poverty
of appearance during the dull months of the year, and the cultivator
fhould not seek, by any forcing treatment, to compel them to grow
m the winter season. They all require a definite season of rest.
S. H.
199
THE YILLA KITCHEN- GAEDEN".— No. T.
BY J. C. CLARKE,
Head Gardener at Cothelston Ilouse, near Taunton.
IN commencing a series of papers, which I propose to de-
vote to the subject of Kitchen G-ardening, I wish to say,
at the outset, they are not intended to teach tho^e men
who occupy positions in the more exalted stations of
gardening ; although perhaps with those a perusal
would not be time ill spent. But they are chiefly intended to suit
the position and scope of men less favourably situated, and the
writer hopes that his efforts to diffuse amongst the readers of these
pages some practical information for the proper management of a
kitchen-garden, may be useful to many of the readers of this
work.
The writer feels himself at full liberty to state candidly that
he starts without any presumptuous notions of his superior abilities
in this matter ; because he is one of those men who has been bred
to the garden, and the kitchen-garden more particularly, and has
still to depend on the proper management of a garden for his
livelihood. But having done so, to tlie great satisfiiction of a late
respected employer, who has repeatedly requested the writer to put
his practice upon paper, for the benefit of the public, he has con-
sented to do so in this form ; and hopes, by only giving sound and
practical information in a plain readable language, to succeed in
impressing upon the mind of the young gardener, and the ama-
teur, some of the chief matters to be observed in managing a
kitchen-garden.
The General Plan. — AVith this brief introduction, I will pro-
ceed to the more practical details of my subject ; and, in the first
place, I may refer to the plan here given, and to state that it is not
given as adapted to any particular spot or position, but as appli-
cable to the majority of villa gardens, from half an acre to two acres
in extent. It is eminently adapted for villa gardens, for this
reason — that the grounds of these residences are, generally speak-
ing, of greater depth than width, so that a square form could not
well be introduced. And it is important to remember that this
parallelogram form secures more of the sun's influence than would
' any other, without introducing divisional walls ; as the length of the
south wall, taken in connection with the narrowness of the garden,
must increase the temperature near it by radiation — to an extent
that can only be estimated by taking into consideration the length
of the wall — and then we shall understand how much more of the
temperature of the garden is influenced by radiation in this form
than in a square one. To my mind this is such an important con-
sideration in the ultimate productiveness of the garden, by securing
early and better crops, that some trifling objections to it ought not
200 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
to be taken into account. I do not propose here to go into tbe
question as to which is the best position for a kitchen-garden, be-
cause in the majority of cases there is no choice ; so I would rather
take them as we find them : and what we cannot secure by choice
we must endeavour to obtain by a liberal outlay and skilful
management.
"Walls afd Hedges. — The position being decided upon, we
have to deal with the subject of walls or fences. In the first place,
a wall, running the whole length of the south side, ten to twelve
feet high, is not only desirable, but absolutely necessary to a good
garden ; and it would add considerably to the value of the garden if
walls on the east and west ends, of tbe same height, were added, and
an eight-feet wall on the north side ; but where expense is a con-
sideration, the two ends and north side-walls may be substituted
with a close oak fence, at least six feet high. I never advocate any
kind of hedge to enclose a kitchen-garden, on account of the num-
ber of slugs and other vermin it is likely to harbour. But, never-
theless, hedges are sometimes required, and when such is the case
I prefer a yew or box hedge, as they afford more shelter than any
other evergreen or deciduous shrub that can be used ; and the
number of years they last in good condition, when annually clipped
and otherwise well cared for, would astonish inexperienced peo-
ple. The yew is to be recommended on the score of the height
it attains, as it may be induced to go to the height of eight or
ten feet.
ExTE]s^T OF GrKOTJifD. — I know of uo general rule which I can
give to guide any one as to the extent of ground required, as the
requirements of some families are so different from others, from the
fact that with some, plants and flowers are the greatest consideration,
while with others good and successional supplies of vegetables are
equally important. But I may say, in connection with this subject,
that it is a very important part of the business in forming a new
garden. One important matter is the observance of a strict economy
in space (and the reader will grant that it applies with great force
to a villa garden) ; but in wishing the reader to take into con-
sideration the subject of space, I do so with a full knowledge of its
important results, as there are hinged upon this point two essential
features : first, to secure sufficient land to grow breadths of vege-
tables, according as they are likely to be required ; and, secondly,
not to embrace more than the labour power allowed will keep in
good condition. But on this point many make a great mistake ; and
this brings us to the second principle to be observed in this matter ;
for they forget that a garden one acre in extent, properly and skil-
fully cultivated, will yield more pleasure and a better result than
one double the size indiflVrently cultivated. Therefore, if we would
avoid dissatisfaction and disappointment hereafter, we must be guided
entirely by the means that can be brought to bear the burden of
the expense. If the case be so favourable that this need not be a
consideration, so much the better ; but if the means wherewith to
find labour and all other necessaries be limited, then, I say, by all
means reduce the size of the garden to an extent equivalent to the
10
11
12
81
61
PLAN FOR A VILLA KITCHEN-GARDEN.
Length 160 feet ; width 110 feet.
202 THE FLOEAL WORLD AIS'D GARDEX GUIDE.
outlay. Depend upon it", a small garden that can be well done will
give greater satisfaction, and will produce an equal amount of vege-
tables, as a large one that is only indifferently tilled. I am aware
that this kind of reasoning may not meet with the approbation it
deserves by those who are yet unacquainted with the responsi-
bilities of a villa residence; because I admit without any reluctance
that I was not myself a convert to the same opinion, only to a
certain extent, until I was called upon to supply the wants of a
family, iu a neighbourhood where land was selling, not many hundred
yards distant, at £1000 per acre ; and, as I have nothing to fear in
making public the result of my experience, I honesth' confess that a
few years' practice in a limited space taught me more of the true
principles to be observed in conducting the work of a kitchen-
garden, than did fifteen years' previous experience in places where
an unlimited space was at command.
Soils and Deaixage. — On these two subjects I shall say but
little ; for the same remarks apply to soils as to positions, for it is but
seldom there is any choice. Nevertheless, I may remark that a lightish
loam, resting on gravel, is the most suitable. Drainage is only
absolutely required in low situations, and in soils that are more or
less of a calcareous or clayey nature,
TnE Imphoyement of Soils. — The ultimate success of the
gard^'U will depend entirely upon the nature of the soil. If it be a
lightish loam, as just recommended, with a dry subsoil, then a proper
course of culture will produce favourable results. But if it be more
of a clayey texture, with a close under surface, then the addition of
chalk, coal-ashes, lime, burnt earth, and bricklayer's rubbish, in
sufiBcient quantities to make it more porous and open, is desirable.
In peaty or sandy soil, loam, chalk, and clay are the most essen-
tial elements to improve the staple, and should be used liberally,
according to the texture to be improved.
Aerangemext or the G-aedex. — My principal object in giving
the annexed plan, was to assist the reader in the important work of
the arrangement of the garden, and to make the remarks I shall
presently make on the subject of cropping more intelligible. I
think, by dividing the garden into different sections, and by pointing
out the position for the permanent crops, the cultivator who may
not be a master of that part of the business will be materially
assisted. Besides, by referring to the different plots, which are all
numbered, except on the principal square, as I go on presently with
the work of cropping, it will enable the cultivator to foresee better
the work which is before him. As will be seen by the plan, I have
only shown one entrance to the garden ; but more can be added, or
this one altered, as the position or other circumstances may require.
I have only shown one principal walk skirting the whole garden,
and this will suffice for a garden up to one acre in extent ; but if
larger, a walk through the centre, at right angles, will divide
it into four quarters, and make it more convenient for working.
203
SKIMMIAS AND TB.E1R CULTIVATION.
MONGST the host of beautiful Japanese glirubs intro-
duced of late years- to our gardens, the ISkimmias
deserve a high place on account of their neat evergreen
habit, and the abundance and beauty of their scarlet
berries. The species best known is tliat commonly
described as 8. Jaj)onica, which is incorrectly named ; its proper
name is Skimmia Beevesii. This is the slowest grower and the
most dwarf in habit of the series, and the most precocious in berry-
bearing, for, when only two or three inches hii^h, every shoot will
show a terminal bunch of berries. 8. Japonica, which is usually-
denominated 8. Japo7iica vera, on account of the former confounding
of it with 8. Reevesii, is of more robust habit, and a far handsomer
shrub. The flowers of all the species are fragrant, but those of
8. Japonica are especially so, and therefore we may consider it
doubly valuable. But far finer in proportions and character than
either of these is 8. ohlata, which has large leathery glossy leaves,
and bears large orange-red berries of an extremely showy kind.
Nearly all the plants of the true Japonica and oblata that have been
sold hitherto have been grafted on 8. Beevesii, but they may all be
grown from berries or from cuttings. It has been our custom to
sow the berries in February or March in large boxes filled with
sandy peat, and to place these boxes in a damp, shady part of a
feru-house. Berries sown in February or March last are just now
showing their seed-leaves, so we may conclude that the seeds require
nearly six months to germinate. Having lost several batclies of
seedling Skimmias by the attacks of vermin, we feel bound to caution
cultivators, that, although the little trees are never touched by
vermin after they attain maturity, yet in the soft condition of
seedling plants every kind of garden vermin will attack them, and
they must have due protection. To raise them from cuttings is a
very simple process ; we discovered it quite by accident. In the
month of March we found amongst our potted Skimmias some that
had become one-sided and leggy, and we pruned them back to restore
them to symmetrical outlines. It immediately occurred to us to
make use of the prunings, and they were accordingly shortened, so
as to consist of a crown of leaves and an inch or two of wood each.
They were firmly potted close together in sandy peat, and covered
with a bell-glass, and placed in a shady part of a fern-house, and
kept always moist. Twelve months afterwards they began to grow,
and then made faster progress than seedlings, the wood having
thrown out abundance of fibres. Probably the month of July
would be a still better time to take cuttings, but we have not
tried it.
A correspondent asks for a few advices on the cultivation of
Skimmias, accompanying the request with the usual complaint, that
they do not grow fast enough to please him. We have tried them
in all kinds of soils and situations, and under the most diverse
circumstances they live, but only under peculiar circumstances do
20^ THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
they really prosper. To do tliem justice, they should be in a cool,
shady, moist peat-bed ; or, if in pots, should be potted in lumpy
peat with which a goodly proportion of siliceous grit has been
mingled, and should be kept in a damp shady pit all the summer,
or in a moist border under trees. Our Skimmias are all in pots,
being kept solely for furnishing the borders in the winter by the
plunging system. They now stand on a bed of earth under the
shade of a leafy beech-tree, and have a most luxuriant appearance,
their berries being now about the size of cherry-stones. In the
spring of the present year, we found a few in our stock that were in
poor condition, apparently unwilling to fruit and unable to grow.
They were left alone till the middle of April, when they began to
make feeble attempts to push new shoots. They were then taken
out of their pots, and all the old soil was shaken off them, and they
were repotted in good lumpy peat, with an admixture of the sharp
sand resulting from siftings of the sweepings of gravel-walks. When
potted, they were placed on a moist bed in the most shady part of a
fern-house. They are now in a state of luxuriant growth, having
put forth shoots from all parts of the old wood as well as from the
terminal points of the branches. They will now be placed with the
others under the beech-tree to harden, and no doubt they will next
year have a good crop of berries. In any other soil than turfy
peat, and in any other than a damp, shady position, the growth of
the Skimmia will be more or less unsatisfactory. S. H.
EQUISETIJMS.
[,HEEE is a rather troublesome weed, of very elegant
structure and curious history, met with in undrained
clay and loamy soils ; it is of a pale green colour,
and consists of a tough and rather decumbent stem,
surrounded with whorls of thread-like branches, its
true leaves, if it has any, being in the form of minute scales, placed
around points or rings which occur at regular intervals on the stems.
The plant is known to country people as the " horse-tail" or
" mare's-tail," and in botany is called Uquisetmn arvense, the field
Equisetum. Though a troublesome weed, and one that is detested
where it grows plentifully, it is well worth a place in the fernery,
and when planted in a shady bank of peat, it spreads fast, and
makes its appearance in all sorts of places, but does not drive better
things out of the way, or even render itself objectionable. I have
some of it in a shady part of my fernery, and very much enjoy the
mixture of its elegant light green spray with such ferns as Onoclea
sensibilis, and others that have bold-looking fronds. Those who
know this plant, as probably most of our readers do, will be, perhaps,
prejudiced in favour of the genus to which it belongs. But whether
such be the case or not, I wish to recommend these plants to the
206 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
notice of fern-growers, as suited to contribute ia a special manner
to the interest of a collection of acrogenous plants. I have all the
species that are known, and one of them I consider the most elegant
of all plants ever seen upon the face of the earth. This gem is called
Equisefum sylvaticum, one stem of which is represented in the
accompanying figure. If the reader can imagine a nine-inch pot,
with about fifty of these stems crowded together in it, all of them
arching over with exquisite grace, like feathers from the tails of
birds of Paradise, the colour the most tender shade of emerald
green, no apology will be needed for calling attention to it in these
pages, in which beautiful hardy plants have always received special
attention.
Equisetum sylvaticum is a British plant, very scarce generally,
but plentiful enough in some districts. When met with it is usually
in peaty soil, beside a water-course in a shady wood, or on a bank
beside a ditch overhung with trees and rank herbage ; always in a
moist, shady spot, and if not in peat, in some light soil of similar
nature. My best plants in pots are kept under a stage, and have all
the drip that results from the watering of plants above them,
besides the water given them in the usual way, and their appearance
is so delightful, they so fascinate me that I never enter the house
where they are kept without having a peep at them. They are to
me a feast which never satiates, though I sometimes become tired of
flowers, especially after I have for weeks constantly been visiting
great gardens, and comparing and criticising bedding effects. We
have it also planted out in the shadiest and dampest part of a
rockery, in a cool fernery, and also in a shady part of the fernery
out-of-doors. It increases fast, and may, if desirable, be parted
annually in spring when it begins to grow; but to make a fine
specimen it should not be parted, but be shifted to a larger and
larger pot every year, and this should be done without breaking the
ball when the plant is shifted ; no, not even the crocks should be
removed.
Another grnnd species is JEquisetum telmateia, which is of more
robust habit than the last, with regular whorls of branches, which
differ from those of sylvaticum, that they do not branch again. This
grows on dry sandy banks, and is tolerably common, especially in
the southern parts of England. It grows finely in the rockery if
planted in a shady spot, and though found wild in very dry positions,
I have never found it succeed except in a damp position, unless
assisted with frequent watering. Sandy peat is the best soil for it.
Another and most beautiful species is E. umhrosuin. This is
very distinct and very rare. The whorls of branches are rather
crowded, and they all rise at a regular angle, and gracefully arch
over at their ends. This grows in very shady places, and requires
the same kind of cultivation.
Equisetum palustre is another exquisitely beautiful plant. By
many this will be considered more beautiful than sylvaticum, for the
slender branches divide and subdivide into the most hair-like rami-
fications ; indeed, it looks as if constructed of hair, but in a manner
that would be impossible to human fingers even if only in imitation
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 207
of its beauty. This grows in bogs, and therefore when under culti-
vation must have a damp position and plenty of water.
I have also plants of E. Jluviatile, which grows in water ; E.
hyemolc, also a water plant ; E. 2Iac'kaii, which loves moisture, and
E. variegatum, which will grow well under almost any circumstances.
But these three have no beauty. They are like rushes, tall, rigid,
without branches, very pretty in a certain sense in their con-
struction, but are likely to interest only such as are devoted to the
study of these plants.. Therefore I do not recommend these, but
the others named I would have every lover of ferns to possess. I
have said nothing about the singular inflorescence of these plants,
for it does not contribute to their beauty, though to the microcopist
and botanist the inflorescence will aftord abundant amusement. My
object is simply to direct attention to a few beautiful plants that
are very little known, and I, hope this short note will have eff'ect
that way. If any difficulty in procuring specimens, I am happy to
say that Mr. Sim, of loot's Cray, Kent, can remove it, as he keeps
them all, and charges a mere trifle for them. S. H.
MUSHEOOMS UjS'DEE THE GEEENHOUSE STAQE.
A.ST summer I visited the garden of a gentleman amateur
south of London, which was one of the prettiest I saw
during the season; and after praising the various suc-
cesses, we began to talk about failures, and among
other things he said that he was exceedingly fond of
mushrooms, and having failed in procuring any when he tried him-
self, he obtained the assistance of a man in the neighbourhood who
professed to be thoroughly initiated in all the mysteries. The first
thing procured was a large two-light frame, then two or three loads
of hot dung, which, after sundry turnings, was finally made up into
abed; a fabulous amount of spawn was said to be inserted in it,
special soil was procured to cover it, straw and mats to keep it in
the dark ; and when the bill come in for labour and material, £5
was not enough to pay it ; and although this would not have been
too much for a " hobby," had it been a success, yet the case assumed
a very different aspect when it turned out that not a single mush-
room was ever gathered from the bed. This, of course, was an
extreme case, and enough to deter most people from any further
attempt; but as I could always grow plenty of mushrooms for
myself, I thought I might try for a friend ; and after undertaking
not to spend more than a tenth part of the money wasted in the
previous attempt, he willingly consented, thouuh not very sanguine
of success. When September came, I was reminded of my promise,
but took no notice; and when October came, to ease his mind, I
sent in a load of very short but not rotten horse-dung, and told the
man to put a spare light over it to keep it dry. This was turned
once, and not till the end of the month did I really proceed to make
208
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
the bed, and then came a surprise at the place in which I put it.
In the little " lean-to " greenhouse, 20 feet by 9 feet, was a three-
incb flow and return pipe,
running round the floor of
the house next the wall,
back and front ; at the
back is a stage supported
by uprights and bearers,
from which the shelves are
bracketed, a. Some rough
feather-edged boards, 5,
were nailed to the under
side of the bearers, and
overlapped each other so
as to form a waterproof
roof; under this the bed
c was made (enclosing the
pipes d), 12 feet long,
barely 2 feet high at back,
and 2 feet 6 inches wide
at the bottom. The fire
was lighted twice a week to give gentle bottom-heat, and bring the
camellias in bloom on the stage overhead. The bed came into
bearing in less than six weeks after spawning, or a fortnight before
Christmas, and produced a good succession. The only trouble was
an occasional sprinkle of tepid water, for it never had a particle of
covering of any kind.
I would ask our amateur friends who are fond of mushrooms,
and have greenhouses that by a little ingenuity might be adapted to
grow them in a similar way to this, whether a neat mushroom bed
under the stage would not look more tidy than broken pots, dead
and dying plants, etc., that too often accumulate there, to say nothing
about the pleasure and profit to be derived by growing a plentiful
crop of this useful esculent ? CE.
How TO TAKE Leaf Impressions, — Hold oiled paper in the smoke of a lamp,
or of pitch, until it becomes coated with the smoke ; to this paper apply the leaf of
which you wish an impression, having previously warmed it between your hands,
that it may be pliable ; place the lower surface of the leaf upon the blackened sur-
face of the oiled paper, that the numerous veins that are so prominent on this side
may receive from the paper a portion of the smoke ; lay a paper over the leaf, and
then press it gently upon the smoked paper ; Avith the finger, or with a small roller
(covered with woollen cloth, or some like soft material), so that every part of the
leaf may come in contact with the sooted oil paper. A coating of the smoke will
adhere to the leaf. Then remove the leaf careiully, and place the blackened surface
on a piece of white paper, not ruled, or in a hook prepared for the purpose, covering
the leaf with a clean slip of paper, and pressing upon it with the fingers or roller, as
before. Thus may be obtained the impression of a leaf, showing the perfect outlines,
together with an accurate exhibition of the veins which extend in every direction
through it, more correctly than the finest drawing. And this process is so simple,
and the materials so easily obtained, that any person, with a little practice to enable
him to apply the right quantity of smoke to the oil paper and give the leaf a proper
pressure, can prepare beautiful leaf impressions, such as a naturalist would be proud
to possess. Specimens thus prepared can be neatly preserved in a book form, inter-
leaving the impressions with tissue paper.
209
A PEW SELECT BEDDERS.
OLDEN Feather Fyrethrum. — In common with many
other cultivators, I had my doubts about the suitable-
ness of this plant for bedding displays, and so I said
nothing about it till experience should teach me what
to say. Early in April last I planted out a few nice
tufts, and at the same time I cut up some others for increase of
stock. Those first planted had to bear with dreadful weather, but
were unhurt by frost and rain, and their appearance now is most
beautiful ; the growth being exceedingly neat, and the colour of the
leaves nearly a pure orange yellow. There is, of course, a tinge of
green in the young growth, but it does not affect the unity of tone
of a ribbon line or mass of the plant. Those cut up for increase
made roots quickly, and behaved so well, that I should regard this
pyrethrum as one of the best of plants for amateurs, and a good
substitute, in many cases, for Cloth of Gold, or any other golden-
leaved geranium.
Goldfinch Geranium. — This was brought out by Messrs. James
Carter and Co., two years ago, but did not attract much attention.
It is not very promising in appearance as a pot plant, having
greenish-yellow leaves, and a rather ill-defined, broad, cinnamon-
coloured zone. It has been fairly tried this year at Stoke Newing-
ton, and proves to be a brilliant bedder of the very best constitution,
and amongst the best of the yellow-leaved class. Mrs. Pollock, planted
near it, is quite eclipsed by the splendour of Groldfinch ; and this
last we consider established as a good companion to Luna, these two
being the best at present amongst varieties well proved of the
yellow-margined and brown-zoned series.
Ivy-leaved Geranium L' Elegante. — This variety, lately intro-
duced to cultivation by Mr. Cunningham, of The Eorge, Burton-on-
Trent, is a perfect companion to the lovely golden-edged ivy-leaved
variety, in praise of which we have often spoken. L'Elegante has a
neat creamy margin, or a bright red margin, it being in the com-
mand of the cultivator to produce either colour at will. "When
grown in a good light, but in some degree screened from the sun-
shine, the variegation is creamy ; but when exposed to the fullest
glare of the sun, the red tint appears.
Geranium Brilliantissima is an advance upon the old "Brilliant"
in respect of intensity of scarlet colour and abundance of flowers.
Those who know Brilliant well will be inclined to doubt if in respect
of colour it can be beaten, but it is a fact that Brilliantissima does
beat it ; and to say more in praise of this variety would be " waste-
ful and ridiculous excess."
TropcBolum Advancer. — We received this from Mr. J. J. Chater,
Gonville Nurseries, Saffron Walden. It is of dwarf, compact habit,
has small, rather yellowish-green leaves, small, very neatly-formed
flowers of the brightest orange scarlet. The flowers are produced
in such profusion, that Advancer must have first rank as a bedder ;
VOL. II. — NO. Til. 14
210 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
and it appears to be quite incapable of making those strong running
shoots that in many cases render bedding tropa^olums more plague
than profit.
Lobelia erinus spectaMlis. — Those who wish for the best edging
lobelia in cultivation should obtain a few plants of this beautiful
variety, and keep the stock on from cuttings. It is far superior to
the best forms of speciosa, and is as good a grower as any. Messrs.
E. Gr. Henderson and Son first sent out spectabilis, but probably
many trade cultivators possess plenty of it by this time.
Lobelia erimis Miss JMiirpliy. — This was sent out by Messrs.
Dobson and Son, of Isleworth. It is of very compact dwarf habit,
the flowers pure white. It makes an exquisitely beautiful edging.
Foa trivialis argeniea. — This new grass is not nearly so effective
at the present time, at Stoke !N'ewington, as the well-known and
universalty-admired Dactylis glomerata, fol. var. It may yet prove
to be invaluable, but we cannot say that it is so now. It has been
planted out since the middle of April, and is growing freely. S. H.
DAHLIA IMPEEIALIS.
BY KA.EL PEOSPEE.
AM somewhat surprised to find that this noble dahlia is
scarcely at all known to the English gardeners. The
fact proves to me that there is not much earnest
inquiry after plants of noble outline and proportion, and
that colour exercises a tyrannical influence upon the
tastes of my brethren of the horticultural profession. And what is
Dahlia Imperialis ? you ask. It is a tree-like species of dahlia, dis-
tinct in every way from the florists' flowers of this class. It rises
to the height of seven to nine feet, when planted out in June in a
good loamy soil, fully exposed to the sun, but sheltered from great
gales. The leaves are of great size, deeply pinnated, and a fine
plant presents, when viewed from a moderate distance, a very peculiar
and most noble appearance ; different, of course, from that of a
fern, yet partaking somewhat of that character. So far it is '' im-
perial," and will satisfy the lover of beauty. The next thing is to
see its flowers, which falls to the lot of but few^ in England ; but in
the south of Europe I have seen it quite sheeted with flowers of
most delicate white and rose, and these flowers are unlike the
dahlias of the gardens, they are rather more like magnolia flowers ;
at all events, they contract in the ray florets so as to have a sort of
bell-shape, and give to the plant an extraordinary character.
In such a cold season as 1867, I think the first week in July
would be early enough to plant out Dahlia Imperialis. It grows
fast, and by the end of September wiU have attained to noble pro-
portions. What then ? Shall we leave it to the frost to cut it
down ? No, I propose that at the end of September, or some time
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 211
before the 2oth of October, we carefully take it up, give it a good-
sized pot, and place ib in a warm greenhouse and shut it up,
to recover from the lifting, and that in due time we transfer it to
the warmest part of the conservatory. Let it be growing on, in fact,
the whole year round, and take care to strike a few cuttings in April
every year, for planting out. Thus it may be made to do double
duty and f];ive double pleasure.
The Editor has handed to me a letter from a correspondent, who
seems in great difficulty " where to obtain the plants recommended
by Mr. Prosper." I am told it is the rule to avoid, as far as pos-
sible, mention of the names of traders. The Editor remarks to me,
** This is a constant difficulty, for we can scarcely mention a plant,
even the most common, but some correspondent will aver that * it
cannot be obtained in the trade,' though at every good nursery
there may be thousands of it." Well, I can say I have not recom-
mended a single plant that cannot be easily obtained, but I know
nothing of the capabilities of the little nurseries where Tom Thumb G-e-
ranium and Crystal Palace Tropseolum appear to be the only two plants
they have ever heard of. Only a few months since, I looked over the
stock at Messrs. E. Gr. Henderson and Sons, Wellington Eoad, St.
John's Wood, and saw a considerable number of the plants I have
been recommending during the past year. Yet that is not the only
nursery where such plants are kept. I dare say Messrs. Yeitch and
Son, of Chelsea, have as varied an assortment. I am pretty sure
that Messrs. Backhouse and Son, of York, have ; and I could per-
haps find a dozen more. But that is not my business. If I know
of a good thing, my duty is to give it a place in my category, and
leave the laws of supply and demand to work out all the rest.
SEEDS TO BE SOWJs' IN THE MO^^^TH OE JULY.
N the early months of the year seedsmen are so overdone with work that
customers are often kept waiting for weeks for the supply of goods
ordered, and the customers themselves are so worried with earthwork,
planting, and the rest of the activities of the spring, that many of the
seeds purchased then are wasted through heing carelessly sown, neg-
lected after they come up, or because that is just the worst time in t'ne whole year in
which to commit them to the ground. Now is the time for the lover of a garden to
be busy in sowing seeds. Whatever is sown now will come up if there is vitality in
it, and whatever comes up will make a good grov/th, and all biennial and perennial
plants will bloom well next season. The three weeks from the 25th of July to the
15tli of August are the best in the whole of the year for sowing seeds and striking
cuttings. "We shall first remark in a general way that the seed-bed should be in a
clean and moderately fine state, and at this time of year it will be better if a shady
position can be chosen for it, as in the event of hot dry weather just as the seeds
are pushing through, many of the little plants may perish. Seeds are killed in
various ways. AVlien sprinkled haphazard on hard rough soil, many sink too deep
to germinate, otiiers are too much exposed, and so get burnt up. When drenched
with water from a watering-pot, many get washed away, and the seedling plants
are washed out of the soil, and the next ray of sunshine destroys them, and of
212 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
course slugs and snails take their share of delicate dinners from batches of plants
in the seed-leaf. These causes of loss indicate some of the points essential to suc-
cess. Let the ground be dug over and broken fine. If in a nice friable condition
and not poor, sow on it as it is, after having made it level and slightly sloping
towards the walk or alley. If the staple is a stubborn loam or clay, an artificial
surface should be made for all choice seeds, and there can be nothing better for the
purpose than a mixture of dung rotted to powder and leaf-mould, equal quantities,
spread over the surface about three inches deep. Seeds as large as peas and not
smaller than radishes sow in drills drawn an inch deep with the back of the rake.
Smaller seeds sprinkle on the surface, and cover with about their own thickness of
sifted earth, and then gently pat down with the back of the spade, or press with a
board. Choose if possible a time when the ground is moist with rain. Sow thin,
so that if the seedlings are not immediately transplanted they will not choke eacb
other, and avoid if possible giving any water until the seedlings are up. In case of
dry hot weather immediately after sowing, cover the seed-bed with boards resting
on stones, or with moss or branches of evergreens — anything, in fact, that will
prevent the ground becoming too dry, and that can be removed easily ; and
of course all covering must be removed as soon as the seedlings begin to bristle
through.
Now as to what should be sown at this season. Let us look first at the kitchen
garden. First Lettuces, say Paris and Bath Cos for late autumn use, and at the
end of the month Hammersmith to stand the winter. Radish, Spinach, and Turnip
are not less important. Prickly Spinach sown in August will really stand the
winter ; that sown in September is by no means certain to do so. Those who eat
Endive should now sow a good breadth of the small green curled, which is very
hardy. Now is the last moment to secure a bit of fine Parslej- for winter use ;
sow on a rich soil, and thin to six inches apart when the plants are large enough
to handle. Lastly, this is the best time in the year to sow Cabbage, and by good
management one sowing in autumn may be made to supply cabbages of several
kinds the whole year round, because the larger kinds will yield plenty of sprouts
after the hearts are taken. But three sowings of Cabbage should be made : say
the last week in July a pinch each of Green Colewort, Cattell's Reliance, and
Early Barnes. In the first week of August sow Early York, Vanack, and Atkins's
Matchless. Last week in August sow Coleworts again.
In the flower garden, an immense collection of the finest herbaceous plants may
be obtained at almost no expense at all by sowing while the ground is moist with
rain. Considering the beauty of many of these things, and the difficulty frequently
experienced in obtaining plants in spring, it is a wonder that at this season so few
should take the little trouble required to produce them in myriads.
The following are invahiable for decorative purposes, and at all respectable
seed shops seed of them may be had that will be sure to germinate if treated
as we advise : —
Aconitum album, A. Napellus, A. Canariensis.
Agrostemma Flos Jovis.
Alyssum saxatile, the best of all the yellow spring flowers.
Anthyllis vulneriana rubra.
Antirrhinum of sorts.
Aquilegia of sorts.
Arabis alpina, one of the best white-flowering plants in spring.
Armeria formosa and A. longiaristata.
Astragalus purpureus.
Aubrietia deltoidea and A. purpurea, most useful of dwarf flowering plants for
spring and summer.
Campanula grandiflora, C bononiensis, C. lactiflora, C. carpatica, Canterbury
Bell.
Catananche cerulea.
Delphinium formosum, D. sinensis, and D, giganteum.
Dianthus atrorubens, D. giganteus, D. Japonicus, D. latifolius.
Digitalis of sorts.
Eupatorium corymbosum.
Hollyhocks in variety.
Lupinus elegans, L. polyphyllus, and L. magnificum.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 213
Lychnis chalcedonica, L. Haageana, L. viscaria.
Mimulus rivularis and M. cupreus.
Myosotis alpestris and M. palustris.
(Enothera Lamarckiana, (E. Jamesii, CE. taraxacifolia.
Pentstemon carapanulatum, P. cordlfolium, and P. Murray anum.
Potentilla atrosanguinea and P. splendidissima.
Rose Campion.
Rudbeckia fulgida.
Saponaria ocymoides.
Silene alpestris and S. Schafta.
Sweet Williams.
jS^OTE on GEAETINa THE GEAPE VINE.
INES are more frequently grafted than formerly, in consequence of the
superior productiveness of many fine varieties when grafted on a free
rooting stock. A short time since a discussion on the subject of grafting
took place in the Revue Sorticolehetvfeen M. Boisselet and M. Carriere,
chiefly respecting the merits, as compared with the usual way of cleft-
grafting, of a mode of performing the operation, and of an instrument employed
for the purpose by Daniel Hooibrenk. M. Boisselet, in the first place, defends the
mode of cleft-grafting, which M. Carriere says was unnecessary, as it was not
attacked ; and secondly, he states that he has frequently tried grafting with the
instrument above alluded to, but has never succeeded. On the other hand, M.
Carriere affirms, that with the same kind of instrument he has operated successfully
not only in grafting the vine, but also the following plants : — In spring, in the
open air ; apricot, cherry, plum, apple, pear, poplar, amygdalopsis, cytisus, all
the species. In autumn (September), in the open air : apricot, cherry, pear, plum,
cotoneaster, purple filbert, syringa, thorn. In autumn (September), under
g.ass : the fruit-trees above mentioned, together with the birch, oak, beech, thorn,
lime, cotoneaster, and conifers. Here M. Carriere mentions the time and circum-
stances under which he operated ; but of these, in the case of his opponent, we are
not informed. Now, in our opinion, the season, or state of vegetation of the plant,
is the main point. If grafting is done at the right time, which may be sooner or
later, according to the nature of the subject operated upon, almost any instrument
with a cutting edge will do ; but if done at the wrong season, the most ingeniously
constructed instrument, and with an edge as sharp as that of a razor, will not
ensure success, and more especially in the case of the vine.
Many years ago, Mr. Braddick, of Thames Ditton, generally failed in grafting
the vine at tbe usual time of grafting in spring. He, however, received some vine-
cuttings from abroad in summer, after his vines were in full leaf, and anxious to
preserve the sorts, and for the sake of experiment, he then grafted them, though
almost hopeless of success ; but as it turned out to his surprise, the grafts took
well. By subsequent experiments, the result of which he communicated to the
Horticultural Society, he established the fact that vines ought not to be grafted till
the stock or plant on which the scion is placed is in leaf. Most probably, therefore,
M. Boisselet's complete failure, with the vine at least, has occurred, like that of
many others, in consequence of grafting at a season when the plant ought not to be
cut on any account whatever, that is, after the sap is in motion, and before the
buds expand. Any incision made during that period permits the vine to bleed, but
most profusely if made just before the buds open ; and the more vigorous the vine,
the worse the bleeding. When large limbs of apple and other trees are cut and
grafted just as they are on the point of bursting into leaf, the flow of sap is often
so great as to "drown the graft," as suffusion from the overflow of sap is technically
termed. But the loss of the graft is not the only bad consequence of the untimely
operation. The unabsorbed extravasated sap ferments, becomes putrid or acid, and
kills the vital tissue lying between the alburnum and inner bark. The stock con-
sequently dies back to a greater or less distance below the wound, instead of keeping
alive or healing over, as would be the case if cut back in autumn or winter. Many
214 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
persons complain that their pears on quince stocks do not succeed well. They
should recollect that the quince is amontist the earliest of deciduous trees in coming
into leaf, and therefore it should be headed back for grafting eaily in the year at
latest ; for when done at the time of grafting, or after its sap is in active flow, it
dies or cankers at the grafted part, so that a perfect union cannot possibly take
place.
Presuming that due attention is paid to the proper time for grafting, the ope-
ration may be successfully performed in various ways. On the whole we consider
that in most cases whip-grafting is the rcost preferable ; and what is termed in the
Mevue Horticole Daniel Hooibrenk's system, appears to be nothing more nor less
than whip-grafting. It is better than cleft-grafting, because more of the sections
of the inner barks of the stock and scion can be made to coincide than by other
modes. M. Carriere, who is a very intelligent horticulturist, details a case in which
Hooibrenk's mode, or what we may as well call wbip-gra.'ting, succeeded better
than cleft-grafting. In the beginning of September, he took two vine shoots, of
which the wood was then half-herbaceous. One he cut in lengths of five or six
inches, eacii piece being cut immediately under a bud at its base, and close above
one at its top, exactly as if prepared for a cutting, but a slice at top was taken off
as in whip-grafting, to receive the scion formed of a portion of tlie other shoot,
which latter was cut so as to preserve a bud and leaf at its top, whilst its base was
cut sloping, to fit exactly its counterpart at the top of the other p.ece intended for
the stock. The parts were then tied and covered with grafting wax. Each grafted
cutting or cutting stuck was then inserted about half its length in a pot, and placed
under a hand or bell-glass in a propagating house. The leaf at tiie top of the scion
continued to act, and contributed to the formation of roots, and the union of the
graft.
In the Gardener's Magazine of March 9th, 1867, M. Sisley, of Lyons, makes a
communication on a yet different method, which has been adopted by M. Boisselet.
He cleaves the stock between two bifurcations. It is no matter at what height of
the stock this is done. Into the cleft he introduces the graft, cut as for ordinary
cleft-grafting. It is then bound up with a strong ligature and grafting wax. He
next binds the two branches of the bifurcation at two or three eyes above the cleft ;
and in the spring, as the sap rises, he pinches back the young shoots, causing
thereby a flow of sap into the graft. He does not cut off the two siumps of the
stock until the autumn following the insertion, by which time the gratt is weli
developed.
The experiences of M. Boisselet have sufficiently demonstrated that this mode
of grafting is nearly infallible. It offers the utmost advantages to the cultivator,
especially as a graft can be inserted wherever there is a bifurcation, hence affording
the power to place a number of grafts on the same stock. The sudden suppression
by means of the knife of the whole of tlie vine above ground is always prejudicial to
the root-action, and the " Greffe Boisselet " is free from this objection. Another
important advantage attending it is, that if the graft does not prosper, nothing \%
lost, for the branches of the bifurcation will produce their fruit the same, and the
stock will not suffer more than from the check to which it is subjected by the ordi-
nary process of cutting down.
The horticultural journals of France have given publicity to this invention, and
rendered justice to its inventor. The Imperial and Central Society of Horticulture
of France hiis been occupied at several of its meetings in the consideration of the
subject, and M. Duchartre, the secretary general, testified, at one of its recent
meetings, that he had practised this new mode of grafting with success.
The "Greffe Boisselet" may be practised at every season of the year, but it»
inventor recommends— and with reason — that the autumn should be preferred,
the best time of all beijig when the leaves of the vine begin to turn jelluw.
215
VALUE OF COCOA-XUT FIBRE REFUSE IN THE
CULTIVATION OF ORCHIDS. '
EW plants have so exercised the intelligence of horticulturists, have caused
so much groping in the dark, or so many divers experiences, as Orchids.
At first it was thought advisable to place them upon the summit of a
little hill or mound, formed of little cubes of turfy earth, or even of
compact peat, and disposed in such a manner as to allow the air to cir-
culate among tliem, the whole being in pots. Then they fixed among the heaps
fine chips of wood, which traversed the said cubes, at the same time that others
placed vertically supported the pseudo-bulbs.
To this primitive mode were added pieces of rotten wood, in order to furnish,
as was thought, a certain nouiishment to the roots. Very soon for the pots were
substituted large square baskets, formed of the branches of trees ; then pots more or
less pierced with holes. Later still, the little cubes of earth were replaced by
common moss, still intermixed with bits of rotten wood, and the detritus fouad in
the cavities of old trees.
At the same time that these different methods were being largely practised, they
used also branches of trees with tlieir bark on (oak was preferred), upon which the
orchids were fixed, the rhizoraatic base being surrounded by a tuft of moss, in
order to hold a slight and proper degree of moisture. This method is still very
generally followed.
Until very recently, pots, baskets, and branches of tree, have been suspended
liere and there in oi'chid houses ; and certainly the coup-cVml which they formed
was anything but agreeable, and served to inspire in many amateurs a sort of repul-
sion for the cultivation of these plants, which have otherwise every desirable merit.
But latterly, without abandoning entirely the system of suspended branches, we
more willinglv cultivate orchids in vases, more or less ornamented and pierced on all
sides ; these vases are arranged upon the pounded dross of iron in a sort of amphi-
theatre, which presents to the eye, by the diversity of the habit and inflorescence of
the plants, an aspect truly ornamental, and very much preferable to the inelegant
suspensions. Some plant orchids in thick tufts of Sphagnum, disposed in ridges.
But in this last method these tufts sink down through the syringing and watering,
and become so compact that the roots of the orchids, which, as every one knows,
are essentially ethereal, penetrate it with diflBculty, which necessarily influences
them to the prejudice of their vegetation and iuHorescence.
Struck by the inconvenience which has just been mentioned, several who were
interested in the cultivation of orchids set themselves to discover a substance more
suitable, more easily permeable by air and water, to replace with advantage the
SpJutymim ; and the individual who first discovered it must have cried out with joy
jfcwre^^.' an exclamation which has been preferred for discoveries far less happy;
and this m-aterial is cocoa-nut fibre.
It is only recently that this new mode of plantation for orchids has been tried,
and it has been in every case followed with complete success. We regret that we
are unable to mention the name of the horticulturist or amateur who first used it
for the purpose.
No substance is by its nature at once firm and spongy, so well adapted for the
cultivation of orchids. The air and tlie water will circulate in it with the greatest
facility ; the orcliideous roots can penetrate it freely in every way, and find easily
the humidity necessary to the life of these plants, with something more — a certain
humus, or sort of abundant manure which exists between the fibres and surrounds
them.
All kinds of orchids, whether from America, India, or Africa, flourish in this
new soil ; and there is no longer a necessity for suspending them on branches or in
baskets, so displeasing to the eye. Prepare a ridge, raised high in the middle, with
sloping sides, and in it plunge tlie pierced vases, well drained and full of the said
fibres, in a round hillock ; the whole to be in a large stove with a low roof, and so
arranged that the tall-growing species are in the centre, and those of less elevation
at the sides. Against this method of cultivation it has been urged, and that certainly
without cause, that this substance gives birth to champignons; but even if it did,
which it does not, the champignons do not interfere with the orchids.
216
ASPIDISTRA LURIDA VARIEGATA.
HOSE who trust catalogues for information on gardening will find that
they are forbidden to grow this beautiful plant unless they are possessed
of a good stove, and the mistaken notions that have prevailed as to its
hardiness have hitherto prevented its culture by amateurs, to whom it
might be invaluable. In the Cottage Gardener's Dictionary^ Aspidistra
lurida is classed as a stove plant with purple flowers, blooming in July, and a general
remark is added, in reference to the genus, that it consists of plants " more curious
than ornamental." It so happens that this species, and its variegated variety, are
quite hardy, and both are eminently ornamental, while the variegated variety is one
of the grandest plants of the kind we possess. Aspidistra lurida is a member of the
great family of Lilyworts. The plant is stemless, and forms a creeping fleshy
rhizome very fruitful in buds, which may be removed with a portion of the rhizome
to form independent plants. It throws up gigantic leaves, and produces in April and
May a number of unattractive blossoms on the surface of the soil, and sometimes
beneath the surface. It is often said to blossom underground, but this only happens
when it is planted too deep. The variegated variety is a magnificent subject for
decoration or exhibition, and forms a noble ornament to a sheltered rockery. It will
endure our winters with impunity if planted in a position where water cannot lodge
about its roots. It is admirably adapted for pot culture, and specimens may be
shifted on to ten or twelve-inch pots, and will repay the cultivator by the superb
character of the foliage, which is usually variegated with broad creamy stripes, the
leaves being frequently equally divided with dark green and creamy-white. To
make a fine specimen, it should be potted in a large pot in April, in a strong turfy
loam, and assisted to make a good start with moist bottom-heat. When divided for
increase, bottom-heat is useful, and the best time to part it is from the beginning of
April to the middle of June. When manure is used, the leaves have less variegation ;
and to keep it true, it is best to trust to a sound turfy loam rather than use a stimu-
lating compost.
GYMNOGRAJVBIAS.
N looking over the many beautiful sections of ferns which we now possess,
I often think that Gymnogrammas are not so extensively grown as they
deserve to be, neither do we find them on all occasions so luxuriant as
they might be, or possessing dimensions which would cause them to
command attention at horticultural exhibitions. Among them there are
many beautiful varieties — for instance, Peruviana, argyrophylla, and others of equal
merit, which though perhaps not extensively cultivated, are yet I think well known.
Their treatment is simple enough, yet they require a little more care than others.
The chief difficulty which I find some cultivators meet with is wintering them. Now
as I have been very fortunate with them, I will throw out a few hints which, if care-
fully attended to, no one need despair of success. It will not be necessary to follow
the plant through every stage of growth from its infancy ; suflice it to say that by
commencing with a young specimen in the spring, and keeping it moving throughout
the season, no one need be afraid to have it in an eight or ten-inch pot by the
autumn, or even larger, depending on the variety, for some of them are rather
stronger in growth than others, consequently they require more pot-room. When a
large plant is required, it may be encouraged over the second year in the same
manner and under similar treatment as during the first, and until it has got into a
15 or 16-inch pot, which sizes I have often had them in. Most of the Gymno-
grammas being from tropical climates, require a rather high temperature ; that in
which I have found them to succeed best during the spring and autumn is 60" or 62'
by night, allowing the house to rise 10^ or 15° by day with sun ; the heat during the
growing season may run about 70^ by night, and from 80'' to 85" by day. The
plants at this season must be carefully shaded from the direct rays of the sun. For
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 217
this purpose I prefer a moveable or running shade to one tacked on for several
montlis too;ether in summer. The fronds of these and many exotic ferns are apt in
dull weather, when too much shaded to damp, ere they become properly developed, in
many instances causing the leaves to assume the appearance of having been clipped.
Neither should they be syringed overhead ; sufficient moisture can be obtained by
moistening the paths, etc., when required ; indeed I never like to have that evapo-
ration taking place in a fernery which is unavoidable in other houses, such as plant
stoves or vineries, etc. While the latter require a free circulation of air, I generally
find ferns to grow most luxuriantly in a rather subdued atmosphere, though this
must not be carried to an excess, lest the air become stagnant 3 and although it is
necessary to keep a fernery somewhat closer in the growing season than the houses
just named, yet I do not recommend any one to shut up a fernery very early in the
afternoon. In watei-ing ferns, a liberal supply should be given in summer, and while
they are in active growth ; indeed, if ever they suffer from want of it, they receive a
check which often spoils the appearance of the plants for the season. When the
period of growth is over ia the autumn, they must be gradually prepared for a season
of rest by withholding water at the root and reducing the temperature. After this I
have generally found it necessary in winter to remove Gymnogrammas from the
fernery (wliich in some cases has not a south aspect) to a house so situated, Avhere
they may receive more light and sun ; without this they are difficult to winter suc-
cessfully. The temperature of their winter quarters should run from 50' to 55° by
night ; in this position they must never have an excess of water at the root, neither
will they require any moisture in the atmosphere of the house. If the foregoing
remarks are carefully attended to, plants 3 feet in diameter, and well filled up with
beautiful healthy fronds, may be grown in a couple of seasons. The sort of soil I
have found best is two parts light turfy peat, one light turfy loam, a little silver sand,
and a few pieces of broken freestone ; but they will also do well in peat alone with
one-fifth part of silver sand added. J. R.
NEW PLANTS.
jDIANTUM SCUTUM (Eibherd) .—This beautiful Adiantum has been
raised by Mr. Robert T. Veitch, of the Nursery, New North Road, Exeter.
It will, perhaps, revive the discussion of the interesting question of the
existence of fern hybrids, for it partakes largely of the characters of A.
Farleyense and A. trapeziforme, yet is quite distinct from both. In
habit it assimilates directly with Farleyense, the stipes and rachis being black and
polished, and the pinnie rather distant, but it differs in the pinnules being smaller
and less deeply crenated. It is named scutum from the regular escutcheon outline
of the terminal pinnules, a form to which the others approximate very nearly. But
whereas the terminal pinnule is of regular outline, the superior margin being semi-
circular, and the two inferior margins forming a crescentic wedge, those constituting
the remainder of the pinna are unequally sided, and their superior margins are
deeply crenated. This beautiful fern becomes fruitful at an early age, young plants
with only one frond fully developed, presenting sori on all the pinnules. These are
oblong, prominent, with linear indusium, and their rich brown colour adds much to
the beauty of the pale green fronds. This is a valuable addition to this much-
admired genus of ferns, and will take high rank in the series of adiantums adapted
for exhibition. It appears to be of more hardy constitution than A. Farleyense, and
is scarcely inferior to tiiat magnificent fern in beauty.
Amakyllis Pardixa, Spotted-floioered Amaryllis (Bof. Mag. t. 5645). —
Amaryllideas. A magnificent species, discovered in Peru by Mr. Pearce, collector
to Messrs. Veitch and Son, of Chelsea. The flowers are of great size, opening to a
flat face, the ground colour is yellow, richly covered with small red spots. It is a
stove plant of the most easy cultivation.
Bletia Siierrattiana, Sherratfs Bletia (Bot. Mag. t. 5646). — Orchidese.
This is the prettiest of the true Bletias. It is a native of New Granada, whence it
has been imported by Messrs. Low and Co. The flowers are produced in a terminal
mass of a dozen or more, they are of a bright purplish rose colour. The Cattleya
house appears to be the proper place for this Bletia.
218 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
BiLLBERGiA SPHACELATA, CJiupon of Chili {Bot. Mag. t. 5647). — Bromeliaceae.
A handsome plant, conspicuous for its magnificent crown of leaves, each from four
to five feet long. Tlie flo«ers are pale, rose-red, with lung yellowish green bracts.
STEMO^■ACA^TUus Peakcei, Mr. Feared' s Stemonacanthus {Bot. Mag. t. 5648).
— Acanthacoae. A splendid stove plant, native of Bolivia ; introduced by Messrs.
Veitch. It is an erect undershrub, with lanceolate leaves five to six inches long,
and axillary clusters of brilliant scarlet flowers.
Dendkomum MACRorHVLLrM vAR. Veitchianvm, VeitcJis Variety of Broad-
leaved Bendrohe {Bot. Mag. t. oG49). — Orciiideje. Tbis variety differs fi*om tbe
true D. macrophylJiun of A. Richard only in having a smaller leaf. It is one of
the most splendid of the glorious family to which it belongs, but unfortunately it is
a difficult one to flower.
GARDEN GUIDE FOR JULY.
Kitelien Garden. — This is not a busy time, and the principal business is to
provide for winter supplies of vegetables. Lose no time, especially in showery
weather, in planting out winter greens of all kinds. Towards the end of the
month sow winter spinach, coUards, endive, lettuce, and cauliflowers. In every case
be guided by the traditions of the district as to the best dates for sowing these things,
for to be a week too early is quite as bad, perhaps Avorse, than a week too late.
Floioer Garden. — Tliis is the time for budding roses, propagating many kinds
of bedding plants for next season (especially geraniums), and sowing seeds of hardy
herbaceous plants. Dahlias and hollyhocks need constant protsction against ear-
wigs, and to keep them safe from gales. Carnations, pinks, and picotees may now
be incx'eased by pipings. Cultivators of these beautiful flowers may find it advan-
tageous to read over now Mr. Kirtland's article on the subject, in the Floral
World of March, 1866.
Fruit Garden. — 'S,\xA?, inserted now on plum stocks will soon unite ; this is a
good time, too, for summer grafting. Strawberry runners must be thinned out,
except where :ill are wanted for increase of stock. Where bush trees have been
frequently pinched, it will be well to give them one more pinching back at once,
and after that leave them untouched for the rernainder of the season. Bush trees
that have not been pinched, but have made long rods, should have the points of all
those rods cut off about the 25th of the month. The buds of the season will ripea
better for the operation, but it must not be done too early, or many of them will
start, and make useless sappy shoots.
Greenliome and Stove. — To provide for winter flowers is the principal business
now. Look to cinerarias, primulas, Poinsettia pulcherrima, and other winter
subjects, which ought to be doing well now. Where many varieties of zonale pelar-
goniums are grown, there will now be a splendid display in the houses. Tiiis is a
good time to select and purchase such plants, as tiiey can be seen in flower; and
when the sons are obtained, they can be at once multiplied,
*^* Past issues of the Floral World contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons the *' Garden Guide " will be on a contracted scale this year.
NEWS OF THE MONTH.
Recent Exhibitions. — This has been a good exhibition season, though in
nearly every case tiiC weather has been unpropltious. The Royal Botanic Society
has held two great shows, and there is anotlier announced for July 3rd, which will
make an end of the season at Regent's Park. The Royal Horticultural
Society has converted the great Rhododendron tent (Captain Fowkes's su'^pension
tent) into a showhouse, and therein a great exhibition was held during five con-
secutive days. Like other doings of this society, the "great" show was a great
failure ; there were, of course, many worthy contributions, but the gathering was,
XnE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 219
as a whole, very poor, and there was no effect produced worth remerabenncr. Almost
simultaneously the Botanic Society of Manchesteii carried out an exhibition in
the gardens at Oid TralTurd on a gigantic scale, continuing open ten days. This
was the second best show of modern times — second, in fact, to the International
Horticultural Exhibition of lb66. Two great tents and the great glass-roofed
exhibition house were well filled with groups of plants and tlowers. Tlie display of
orchids was remarkable alike for tlie splendour of the specimens, and the great
value of a large proportion of the species and varieties brought forward. Mr.
Findlay, the curator at the Manchester Botanic Gardens, was tlie guiding spirit 'in
this great affair, and won golden opinions by his persevering energy aud kindly
disposition. Amongst minor gatherings we have attended, we must not forget the
great exhibition in St. John's College, Cambridge, on the 23rd of May, when Richard
Headley, Esq., brought forward the best tulip of the yeai*, a Byloemen named Sir
Alexander Cockburn. The first great exhibicion at the Ckystal Palace, May 25th,
was in every respect good, the bank of pelargoniums alone being woi th the gieat
attendance with which the show was honoured. We write these notes too early to
admit of any remark upon the Rose Show of June 29ch, but we trust that in spite
of a bad seasou, some good flowers will be brought forward. In a separate para-
graph we have collected a ^evf of tbe most important contributions to the exhibitions
of this Season, with the view of indicating the favourite vaiieties in the several
classes. We select only the best in every case, and our readers may he sure that
the varieties which take the highest positions at great exhibitions are as a rule the
best. We have also enumerated a few of the most meritorious of the noveities we
have seen this season.
Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution. — The annual dinner took place
at the London Tavern on the 27th of June. The Right Honourable Sir Robert
Peel, M.P., presided. There was a large company and a liberal subscription.
The Season. — Save and except tliat we have had a considerable auiount of sun-
light, the season hitherto has resembled very closely that of i860. The generally
low temperature has not only retarded vegetation, but in many instances the earliest
sown seeds have been completely destroyed, and those that have sui-vived are far in
arrear of the condition we expect at so advanced a period of the year. In the
latter part of the last month we saw several cultivators engaged in destroying their
potatoes, in order to plant winter greens, having given up all hopes of deriving any
advantage by allowing the potatoes to remain. On the other hand, there have been
heavy crops of grass and clover, and a good hay season, and cereals look well,
though much thinned by the winter. It bids fair also to be a good turnip year, and
though there are reports of the cattle plague, we may, upon the whole, consider
that we are more than ordinarily free from plague^ blight, and pestilence. There is
a dearth of fruit, and a dearth also of vermin. Good and evil may be very nearly
balanced in the present condition and prospect of the crops, yet we cannot say at
present that 1867 is likely to prove a good year, and we tear that, on the whole, it
will be a bad one.
GATHERINGS FROM EXHIBITIONS.
jITH a view to place before our readers the names of the best varieties in
various classes of exhibition subjects, as determined by the awards at
the principal exhibition.^ we have culled from our note-books the
following memoranda, which we are inclined to believe will be of more
value in tliis form than if presented in the usual form of reports.
Auriculas at the South Metropolitan Show. — First 8, Mr. J. Butcher :
areen Edge—TrmW^ General Neil I, TraiL's May Flower, Dickson's Duke of Cam-
bridge. Grey Edge— khhv^oxiWi Newton Hero, Lightbody's Robert Traill, Smith's
Britannia. »rAt7e iV^e — Wy Id's Bright Phojbus. 6>//— Martin's Mrs. Siurrock-
Second 8, Mr. Pink : Green JTrfye— Page's Champion, Olliver's Lovely Ann,
Cockup's Eclipse. Grey Edge — byku's Complete, Woterhouse's Conqueror of
Europe, Lightbody's Alma. iVhite Edge- Ga'uns Model. ^Se//"— Mai tin's Mrs.
Sturrock. First 6, Mr. J. Butcher : Green Edge -Fuge's Duchess of Oldenburgb,
Ashton's Prince of Wales. Grey iV^e— Headley's Stapleibrd Hero, Barlow's
220 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Morning Star. White ^tfyg— Ashworth's Regular. 5e//— Butcher's King of the
Crimsons. Second 6^ Mr. Pink: Green Edae—OWiyer's Lovely Ann, Page's
Defiance. Grei/ JEdge — Grime's Privateer, Waterbouse's Conqueror of Europe.
White Hdffe— Lee's Bright Venus, Popplewell's Conqueror. First 4, Mr. J.
Butcher : OUivers Lovely Ann, Headley's Stapleford Hero, Ashworth's Kegular,
Spalding Metropolitan. Best single plant in the entire show, Lightbody's Robert
Traill, shown by Mr. Butcher.
Show Pelargoniums at Eotal Botanic Exhibitions. — Equal, First 9, Messrs.
Turner and Fraser (May 29). Mr. Turner's were— Royal Albert, Pericles, Belle of the
BaU, Desdemona, Spotted Gem, Patroness, Lord Clyde, Lilacina, Fair Rosamond.
Mr. Eraser's were— Leander, Desdemona, Etna, Empress Eugenie, Rose Celestial,
Lilacina, Pizarro, Ariel, James Lodge. In the amateur class : First, Mr. Nye, with
Garibaldi, Patroness, Belle of the Ball, Etna, Rose Celestial, Fair Rosamond, Sir
Colin Campbell, Madlle. Patti, Desdemona. Second, Mr. Ward, with Beacon,
Pericles, Rose Celestial. Empress Eugenie, Sir Colin Campbell, Desdemona, Madlle.
Patti, Lilacina, Garibaldi. Third, Mr. Wiggins, with Alba formosa, Flambeau
(fiery, but scarcely a show variety), Maid of Honour, Cynosure, Pericles, Regina
formosa. Princess of Denmark, Royalty, Aimee. Fourth, Mr. Weir, gardener to
Mrs. Hodgson, Hampstead, with Argo, Belle of the Ball, Etna, International, Queen
of Beauties, Pericles, Attraction, Sir Colin Campbell, Virginia. On the 19th June,
Mr. Turner led with Royal Albert, Viola, Miss Burdett Coutts, Patroness, Lord
Clyde, Guillaume Severeyns, Regina formosa, Jewess, Mary Hoyle. Mr. Fraser
led with Amy, Fair Rosamond, Excelsior, Favourite, Lord Clyde, Princess of Prussia,
one of the finest whites known ; Inez, Ariel, Guillaume Severeyns. Messrs. Dobson
and Son third, with Pasha, Purity, Patrician, fine, the flowers large, smooth, and
richly coloured ; Leotard, Caractacus, splendid for colour ; Constance. Regina
formosa, Favourite, Bacchus. In the class for amateurs, Mr. Nye first, with Madlle.
Patti, Conflagration, Pericles, Empress Eugenie, Lord Chancellor, International,
Perdita, Lord Clyde, Fair Rosamond. Second, Mr. J. Ward, with Diana, Viola,
Bacchus, Empress Eugenie, Conflagration, Madame Furtado, Caliban, Fairest of the
Fair, Lord Clyde.
Fancy PELARGOxirMS at Royal Botanic— On the 29th of May, Mr. Fraser
led with Clara Novello, Celestial, Maroon, Lucy, Roi des Fantaisies, Arabella
Goddard. Second, Mr. Turner : Roi des Fantaisies, a superb Delicatum, Lady Craven,
Lucy, Godfrey Turner, Ellen Beck. In the amateur class, first, Mr. Donald, with
Bridesmaid, Queen of the Valley, Lady Craven, Miss in Her Teens, Rosabelle, Clara
NoveUo. Mr. Weir showed Lady Craven, Mrs. Stewart Hodgson, Evening Star,
Bridesmaid, Celestial, Delicatum. Mr. James, of Isle worth, showed Silver Mantle,
Princess Helena, Cloth of Silver, .Godfrey Turner, Mrs. Marnock (in the style of
Godfrey Turner, but lighter and brighter), Mrs. Ford. On the 19th of June Mr.
Fraser again led with Hebe, Ellen Beck, Miss in Her Teens, Lady Craven, Arabella
Goddard, Roi des Fantaisies. Second, Mr. Turner, with Sarah 'Turner, Delicatum,
Anne Page, Silver Mantle, Mrs. Dorling, Clemanthe. Third, Messrs. Dobson and
Son, with Fairy, Arabella Goddard, Lucy, The Rover, Delicatum, Acme, Roi des
Fantaisies. In the class for amateurs, first, Mr. Donald : Ellen Beck, Hebe,
jMarionette, Cloth of Silver, Celestial, Roi des Fantaisies. Second, Mr. Bailey, with
Clemanthe, Delicatum, Zoe, Eleanor, Madame Dolby, Bridesmaid. Equal second,
Mr. Windsor, with Miss in Her Teens, Delicatum, Mrs. Ford, Roi des Fantaisies,
Arabella Goddard, Godfrey Turner.
Tulips at the National Exhibition. — The exhibition was this year held at
Stockport ; the following were the varieties shown in the principal classes : — First
Pan of 12, Mr. William Lea's ; the varieties were Mrs. Lea, Heroine, Violet Amiable,
Mrs. Pickerill, Curion, Masterpiece, Sans Joe, Ajax, Duchess of Sutherland,
Bacchus, Sarah Hedley, Triomphe Royal. Second Pan of 12, Mr. John Turner :
Apelles, Charles, Mrs. Pickerill, Violet Amiable, Heroine. Mrs. Lea, Sans Joe,
Polyphemus, Alex. Magnus, Denman, Aglaia, Triomphe Royal. Third 12, Mr.
William Longson : Waterloo, Lord Lilford, Violet Amiable, George Glenny, Heroine,
Lady Crewe, Sans Joe, Paxton, Denman, Queen Charlotte, Aglaia, Lavandicken.
Fourth 12, Mr. George Mort : Colbert, John Wilkinson, Seedling, Amiable, Compte,
Heroine, Captain White, Slater's Telemachus, Charlotte, Denman, Aglaia, Bion.
First Pan of 6, Mr. William Lea : Masterpiece, Violet Amiable, Heroine, Ajax,
Bacchus, Triomphe Royal. Second 6, Mr. Peter Swindells : Charles^ Beauty, Andro-
THE FLORiX WORLD AKD GARDEN GUIDE. 221
meda, Sans Joe, Denman, Aglaia. Third 6, Mr. John Turner : Charles, Adonis,
Heroine, Sans Joe, Denman, Aglaia. Foart}i 6, Mr. H. Travis : Charles, Violet
Amiable, Heroine, Sans Joe, Atlas, Aglaia. Fifth G, Dr. Hardy: Garibaldi, Queen
of North, Heroine, Sir J. Paxton, Lord Denman, Lady C. Gordon. Sixth 6, Mr.
Sharpe : Masterpiece, Violet Amiable, Heroine, Storer's Seedling, Duchess of
Sutherland, Aglaia. First Pan of 3 Feathered, Mr. William Lea : Heroine, Paxton,
Violet Amiable. Second 3 Feathered, Mr. Hajnes : Lord Sydney, Seedilng, Heroine.
Third 3 Feathered, Mr. John Morris : Devonshire, Bienfait, Aglaia. Fourth 3
Feathered, Mr, Millar : Masterpiece, Heroine, Edgar. Fifth 3 Feathered, Mr.
Haynes : Royal Sovereign, Seedling, Aglaia. Sixth 3 Feathered, Mr. Parkinson :
Willison's King, Victoria Regina, Heroine. First Stand of 3 Flamed, Mr. Haynes :
Paxton, Denman, Trioraphe Royal. Second 3 Flamed, Mr. T. Mellor : Masterpiece,
Bacchus, Aglaia. Third 3 Flamed, Mr. J. Moores : Polly, Denman, Aglaia.
Fourth 3 Fiamed, Mr. Haynes : Triomphe Royal, Duchess of Sunderland, Lord
Sydney. Fifth 3 Flamed, 'Mr. Thurston : Sir .J. Paxton, Lord Denman, Aglaia.
Sixth 3 Flamed, Mr. William Lea : Sans Joe, Duchess of Sutherland, Aglaia.
First Stand of 2 Feathered and Flamed, Mr. T. Mellor : Charles, Sans Joe.
Second 2 ditto, Mr. J. Moores : Heroine, Denman. Third 2 ditto, Mr. William Lea:
Heroine, Devonshire. Fourth 2 ditto, Mr. William Longson : Heroine, Denman.
Fifth 2 ditto, Mr. W. Davenport : Charles, Polyphemus. Best Feathered Tulip in
the whole Exhibition, Mr. John Turner : Apelles. The Best Flamed, ditto, Mr. H.
Travis: Atlas.
PAUL'S ROSE GARDEN.
"The Rose Garden: embracing the History of the Rose, the Formation of the
Rosarium, and the various Practices adopted in the successful Cultivation of this
popular Hower ; and an Arrangement of the most esteemed Varieties," etc.,
etc. By William Paul, F.R.H.S. Second Edition. Kent and Co.
X the year 1848, Mr. William Paul, then associated with the old firm at
the Cheshunt Nurseries, published a Ijandsome volume entitled *' The
Rose Garden." This work was profusely illustrated with coloured
figures of favourite varieties of roses, and was received with general
favour by the horticultural public. The book now before us is a
reprint, "carefully revised, and in part re- written," but without the coloured
plates, and therefore by its price adapted to a larger circle of readers. In regard
to the merit of the work, it would be difficult to utter undeserved praise. Mr. Paul
has literary skill as well as practical knowledge, find has employed it to good pur-
pose in explaining the mysteries of his own craft, and in which be stands pre-eminent,
for the benefit of lovers of the Queen of Flowers. This notice will suffice to intro-
duce the work in its new form to the attention of our readers, and as a sample of
the contents, we subjoin a few extracts, which may be useful at this season : —
" FoBCiNG Roses.— In forcing roses on a small .scale, a pit with a span roof may
be constructed at a very trifling cost ; and an Arnott's stove, proportioned to the
size of the pit, proves an effectual and wholesome heating apparatus. A pit twenty
feet long and fifteen feet wide, of sufficient height to enable one to walk conveniently
down the middle, will bold 100 large plants, and to heat this structure a moderate-
sized Arnott's stove is sufficient. A pan of water should be placed on the top, to
preserve a sufficient degree of moisture in the atmosphere. Plants removed from
the ground will, if on their own roots, require to be grown one year in pots before
forcing. Their early treatment is the same as that of other roses in pots, which is
fully described in the last chapter. To this, then, we need not revert, but will sup-
pose the amateur in possession of strong plants of at least two years' growth, whether
of his own raising, or purchased at the nurseries. When about to force roses on
their own roots, we should ascertain that the pots are full of sound healthy roots,
for if they are not, only partial success can be obtained. If fine flowers are wanted,
the last week in December or the first week in January is early enough to commence
forcing, and but little fire-heat should be given in the first instance. This is their
artificial spring, and a low uight temperature must necessarily be secured. The
rose is not a lover of a powerful heat ; it must be forced steadily, increasing the
222 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
temperature by dep;rees, if flowers are required very early. Where bottom-heat
can be obtained, we think it advantageous, although by no means necessary. A
good point to start from in forcing; is 50" to 55" by day, and 40' by night. The tem-
perature of the houses requires close atti^tion ; and the state of the atmosphere as
reo-ards its humidity, although often overlooked, is equally important. Too dry an
atmosphere causes a drain upon the nutritive organs, and will cause the young
leaves to wither and fall off ; it also encourages red spider. A too damp atmosphere
is favourable to the production of mildew, especially if the temperature should fall
suddenly, from the effect of atmospiieric clianges from without, or other causes. A
dry air 'may be remedied by syringing the plants copiously, and if found necessary
by pouring water on the floor of the house. A damp atmosphere is best remedied
by giving air. Unless the weather be very frosty, air should be admitted for the
fi.Vst fortnight, to strengthen the growing buds ; but so soon as leaves are formed it
will be necessary to keep the house constantly closed, except the air be very mild,
which it seldom is at this season of the year. By the admission of cold air, the
young leaves may, from their extreme tenderness, be blighted in an hour. The
plants being once fairly aroused, and their roots in action, the temperature may be
gradually raised till we reach 50' by night and 75" by dav. A higher temperature
than this should not, I think, be produced artificially. Towards the spring sudden
bursts of sunshine will occasionally raise the house 10" without producing any in-
jurious effects ; still, if the weather be mild, we would counteract this by giving
air ; if keen and windy, by shading. A temperature of 90" or even 100" caused by
sunshine, is, however, productive of less injury than a keen frosty air.
"Management of Plantations. — La standard roses, suckers from the stock
often shoot forth, and will impoverish the tree if allowed to remain. They should
be watched for and invariably removed so soon as seen ; if proceeding from beneath
the ground, it is necessary to remove the soil, for which purpose a spade is best,
and they should he cut off close to the stock from whence they spring. If this is
strictly attended to for two or three years, roses will cease to throw suckers. On the
specimen plants here, which are of some age, it is rare that a sucker is seen.
*' At the same time that we are on the look-out for suckers, it may be well to
have an eye on the heads of the trees, to establish a regular growth. Besides the
shoots produced at stated periods — in spring and in summer immediately after
flowering — it is not unusual, when a plant is in full vigoui-, for buds that have lain
dormant even for a year or two to burst into life, producing very gross shoots. If
such proceed from the summer kinds, they rarely flower, and, not ripening well, are
of little use ; if they arise from the autumnals, a large truss of flowers is often
produced, but their quality is quite mediocre. In both cases, by drawing to them-
selves the nutritive juices of the plant, these gross shoots weaken the more moderate
and valuable branches. But what shall be done with them ? They are fine shoots,
and it is a pity to destroy them. But if the plant is already furnished with shoots,
it is certainly best to destroy them, by cutting them off close to the base, so soon
as discovered. If, however, there ai-e but few shoots, or a tree is ill-shapen, they
may be turned to advantage. Under the latter state of things, pinch out their tops
when they have reached an advantageous height, which the looker-on must deter-
mine, and thus they may be brought to fill up a scanty tree, or balance a misshapen
one. But supposing, when such shoots arise, a summer rose has an abundance of
vigorous shoots, or an autumnal is scant of bloom, though at the same time in such
a state of health and vigour as to warrant us in concluding there is a sufficient com-
mand of food to support and develop existing branches and anticipated flowers, this
may render it advisable to allow such shoots their natural course of growth, when
the autumnals— and here we refer to the varieties of Rosea indica especially — often
terminate with a large cluster of flowers. But, remember, the most vigorous shoots
in summer roses are least likely to flower ; in autumnals, they do not produce the
best flowers,
" As a general rule, so soon as the flower-buds are formed, if we are seeking
large flowers in preference to numbers, it will be well to nip out first those that
seem imperfect, and afterwards such as are smallest and most backward. It has
even been recommended to cut off the early flowers of the autumnals, on the ground
that there is an abundance of other roses in June, and the practice causes a finer
and more certain production in autumn. Yet we see no need for destroying the
first flowers of the former. Let them bloom j and when the flowers drop, remove
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 223
the soil an inch or two deep foi- a good space around each plant, placing a spadeful
of manure there. Cover this over again with the soil, and water the plants twice
or thrice if the weather continues dry. Tliis tr. atment will induce a fresh and
vigorous growth, insuring as a consequence fine flowers. The secret of securing a
good bloom of roses in autumn exists in keeping the autumnals growing during
summer and autumn. Do this, and there is no fear of failure.
" After worked roses have been planted some years — say from six to ten — the
health of the plants often becomes impaired ; the wood annually produced srrows
weaker and weaker, and does not attain that maturity and size necessary for the
production of fine flowers. The stems, unless washed occasionally, become covered
with moss and lichen^, and if the soil be at all inferior they probaoly cease to swell.
Too little pruning will produce this state of thini^s, but there are other causes. If
we carefully remove a tree in this condition, we shall find it abounds in large sucker-
like roots, about the thickness of one's little finger, almost destitute of fibre, and
which have been burying themselves deeper and deeper in the earth every succeeding
year. Thus they become placed farther and farther from the reach of nourishment,
while the tree, increasing in size, requires a greater supply. The consequence is,
the tree dwindles and becomes debilitated. This is especially the case where deep
planting has been practised. "When this state of things is visible, the plants should
either be root-pruned, or, which is better, taken up altogether and replanted. Let
this be done early in the autumn ; and when the plants are out of the ground cut
off all the suckers, and shorten the roots moderately close, which will induce an
abundant emission of fibres. Prune the heads closely in spring ; never mind sacri-
ficing the flowers ; the removal of trees of this age, and the shortening of the
roots would alone prevent a perfect flowering the first season ; look only to the
formation of the tree. It is, perhaps, not advisable to remove the whole at once ;
let a few be thus treated every year, for the second year, after replanting, having
regained their vigour, they may be expected to flower as beautifully as ever. Every
rose-tree should be named. Wooden labels answer very well. Tliey should be
three-quarters of an inch wide, three inches long, and about the eighth of an inch
in thickness. In one end of these a hole may be pierced with an awl, and copper
wire passed through, by which they are fastened on the branches. Wooden labels
ar3 preferred for naming plants in the ground. If well painted, and the names
written Avith a dark pencil when the paint is wet, the writing will remain plain for
four or five years, and often much longer. When stuck in the ground, the lower
end of the stick should be covered with pitch for an inch or so above the line of the
level of the ground."
Cool Tkeatmext of Orchids. — Our catalogue of cool countiy plants is at
present very meagre, simply because we have hitherto lost them as fast as they
came ; but we look confidently to the enterprise of our nurserymen, such as Messrs.
Yeitch and Messrs. Low, to provide materials for a fresh start. Even under cool
treatment, orchids require air, shade, and humidity, and will not succeed unless
treated very differently from other greenhouse plants. A cool house ought always
to face the north. Ada aurantiaca, Brassi Gireoudiana, B. cinnamomea, Cypri-
pedium Schlimii, Epidendrum sceptrum, E. vitollinum, E. verrucosum m:ijus, Barkeria
spectabilis and Skinneri, Cj'cnoches barbatum (Paphinia barbata), Cattleya citriua,
Comparettia falcata, Cyrtochilum maculatum, Disa grandiflora, Eriopsis biloba and
altissima, Ccelogyne cristata, La;!ia autumnalis and anceps, Lycaste Skinneri,
Maxillaria venusta, Notylia bicolor, Masdevallia coccinea and tovariensis, Odonto-
glossum angustatum, 0. aureo purpureum, 0, bictoniense, 0. cariniferum, 0. Cer-
vantesii, 0. cordatum, 0. crinitum, 0. grande, 0. Ia3ve, 0. nehulosum, 0. naevium
majus, 0. Pescatorei, 0. Phaloenopsis, 0. pulchellum, 0. pretiosum, 0. Reichenheimii,
0. Uro Skinneri, 0. terrestre, 0. stellatum, Oncidium ornithorynchum, 0. leuco-
chilum, 0. tigrinum, 0. Skinneri, Paphinia tigrina, Pescatorea (Hiuitleya) cerina,
Sophronitis cernua grandiflora and pterocarpa, Uropedium Lindeni, Trichopilia picta
and suavis, Warrea Lindeniana. The above include nearly all the American orchids
with which we are acquainted, that not only delight in a cool house, but are worth
growing in any house at all. A few more might, however, be added, such as
Cypripedium insigne, Odontoglossum hastilabium, etc., to which a cool house is not
essential.
224
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Bebberries. — J. J. Littlebourne. — The nurseryman to whom you refer ought
to be able to settle the question whether your plant is or is not B. NepalensiSy
as he has been so long acquainted with it, and has seen it in flower. "We had seeds
of unnamed Berberis species, through the Horticultural Society, some years ago, and
got up some plants, which, however, were destroyed by frost before they flowered.
Your doubtful plant may be one^of that series, for the distribution was extensive.
Nevertheless, we cling to the belief that it is Xepalensis, and shall be glad to see it
when in flower. Accept our best thanks for the specimens forwarded.
Geranium ph^um. — N. C. L. — Your pretty plant is Geranium phgeum, the
Dusky Crane's Bill, well worth a place in the flower-garden, and thriving best in a
sandy soil and a shady situation. It is a British plant, and quite common in the
mountainous parts of England and Scotland.
Vines on Walls. — A. B. — Let your vine grow pretty much as it likes. You
need not be anxious about the pruning of it at present. Over-anxiety about the
pruning of vines leads to a good deal of mischief. Train out all the shoots, so that
their leaves are fully exposed to the ligbt, and your vine will acquire strength for
future fruiting.
Tricolor geraniums. — S. Steevens. — "We have seen every variety that has been
named and exhibited, not once or twice only, but again and again ; and to pro-
nounce which is best of them all, we confess is beyond our power. Moreover, the
newest varieties cannot be obtained at less than from two to three guineas per plant,
and a plant at such a price has only two or three leaves ; so very few of our readers,
we apprehend, need be immediately anxious to know which is the best. During the
next few weeks we expect to visit all the nurseries where good collections are kept,
and also a great many of the best private gardens, and the results of our inspections
and comparisons shall be given in the next number. As you make particular men-
tion of the splendour of Mrs. Pollock, as a bedder, we feel bound to say that, in our
opinion, this variety is very inefi'ective out of doors. G-oldfinch, Luna, Cloth
of Gold, and Golden Chain, are far more telling ; the first-named especially is most
brilliant.
Grass Lawns. — C. C. C. — "We have had many such queries as yours, and we
have only to reply that if the proper means are persevered in, grass-plots and
lawns may be made green and elegant anywhere. If daisies grow, and grass does
not grow, we may be sure the soil is worn out. The best dressing then is guano
or superphosphate of lime. If the grass is killed by trees overhanging, the bare
places may be planted with a moss-like weed called Sagina jprocumhens, which soon
forms a beautiful green velvety surface. If the soil is hot, and the grass perishes from
drought, trial may be made of the medicinal camomile, Anthemis nobilis, which is
an excellent lawn plant, vividly green, bears trampling and rolling, and spreads fast.
Thus, you see, a person determined to make a grass-plot may have many methods to
choose from. We have learnt by experience that good turf, transferred from the
country to town, never thrives j therefore, in selecting turf for a town-plot, do not
travel far for it.
Thinning Grapes. — C C. C. — Grape-growers should bear in mind a simple rule
that has been again and again given in these pages, and that is, always to remove
the smallest berries when thinning the bunches. These small berries should be re-
moved first, and should be all removed ; for if left they never attain full size, and
are simply in the way of the swelling of the large berries, and rob them of the sap
they want. When thinning, care should be taken to avoid touching tbe berries ; the
bunch may be held, and the scissors may be plied in amongst the berries, and yet not
one left to swell need be touched at all. Sometimes contact with the beard or even
the garments of the operator will cause the berries to rust. The grapes on your
Chasselas crack in consequence of the dryness of the border. Soak the border
three several times while the berries are swelling, and cease to water after they
begia to ripen.
THE FLORAL WORLD
AND
GARDEN GUIDE.
AIJaUSi\ 186
EOSES m 186:
E are so accustomed to speak of the unfavourable circum-
stances to which roses have been exposed, that we
might ahnost repeat for 180 7 the report of any previous
year in the past nine volumes of the Floral Woeld.
If the reader should be curious on the subject, he will
find, no doubt, that in our annual reports we have invariably bad to
speak of untoward influences and unkindness of the elements, and
more or less damage to roses, and consequent imperfections of exhi-
bitions. The fact is, we always have bad weather at some time
between the 1st of March and the 1st of July, and those four
months are the most critical of the whole twelve in the growth of
the rose ; acd the plant is too susceptible of injury by ungenial
conditions of the atmosphere, to pass through any trial in its four
months of special and peculiar activity without being hurt. In the
year 1867, east winds, cold and dry, prevailed in April, and in the
very middle of May we had a severe frost. June had passed and
gone ere there was to be found in any part of England a truly
luxurious bloom ; even on the 29th, when the Crystal Palace show
took place, there were so few good roses, that amateur exhibitors
came to the mark with evident inefiBcieucy ; and in the stands of the
greatest trade*- cultivators faulty flowers were everywhere to be
found. On the 6th of July, when the great Birmingham rose show
took place, the flowers were just right. There had been a few warm
showers two or three days previous to the show, and these rendered
most seasonable aid. Throughout the whole of the vast display in
the Town Hall, Birmingham, comprising thousands of flowers, there
was scarcely a faulty one to be found, and certainly there was not
one really bad collection, so even — speaking with proper reservation
— were the contributions throughout.
Probably we have not done with rose shows yet this season.
The Crystal Palace directors have had seriously in consideration the
holding of an autumnal exhibition, but at the moment of writing
this we are not aware if they have arrived at any decision. Cer-
tainly, an autumnal exhibition of roses might be highly serviceable,
TOL. II. — NO. YIII. 15
226 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
as not only do we want to see what can be done in the shortening
days, but there are many fine roses that are only fit for show in
autumn ; and, indeed, if autumn shows were held periodically, the
Bourbon roses would immediately rise in popular estimation. Earnest
rosarians are too apt, like other men, to look at the matter from one
point of view only. It is true that roses may be brought together in
abundance in autumn, but it is always a question if spectators can be
found to appreciate them. We may be sure of this, that after the
12th of August, when Parliament will be prorogued, there will be
an end of great gatherings in London, and a more precipitous rush
of the wealthy, and indeed of all classes except the very poorest, to
the scenes of rurality which severally attract townsfolk in the long
vacation, than there has been for many a year past. JS'ot that
money abounds, but the excitement and wearisomeness of the debates
on the Keform Bill, and the tremendous climax of the visit of the
Sultan, the Pacha of Egypt, and the Belgian rifles at the closing of
the season, will render rest and quiet doubly necessa^-y; and we do
not think there is any great chance of an autumn rose show meeting
with such success as to cover the expense which must be incurred to
render it eftective.
But, leaving the question of an autumn show, let us consider
what the customary exhibitions have done for us. We have particu-
larly noticed, and the particulars giv^ further on, under the head
of " Gatherings from Exhibitions," will furnish the reader with the
nieans of noticing, that a very small proportion of old roses have
been shown this season, the newer kinds have almost wholly filled
the stands. When we speak of old and new in this connection, we
must be understood as going back only five years, at the utmost;
more than nijie-tenths of all the roses shown at the Crystal Palace,
Kensington, Birmingham, and Hereford were varieties introduced
within the past five years. We are dealing now with matters of
fact, and if therefrom we may proceed to matters of opinion, we
would venture to say that the thorough rosarian must soon fall in
arrear of the fashion and the march of improvement, unless con-
stantly adding to his collection the best of the newer varieties.
The use of the word " fashion," in the last sentence, may tend to
disguise or obscure our meaning. The truth is, fashion has scarcely
any influence at all on the relative degrees of favour shown to any
particular rose. If it is the best of its class, it goes to the front
rank; if the worst, it is quickly discarded, and thus the exhibition
becomes an unerring test of the merits of the several varieties for
exhibition purposes, and .we may be guided by the returns, if
flowers of the finest possible quality are a desideratum. Exhibitors
do not seek new varieties or old varieties when preparing for the
exhibition ; they simply seek for the best flowers, and if in the end
we find the newer kinds to be predominant, we may pretty safely
conclude that the newer kinds are the best.
Amongst the annual importations from the continent, there are
always many bad varieties mixed with good ones ; the trade are
compelled to buy all, but very soon the process of sifting and
selecting commences, and we are not long in learning which are the
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 227
kinds we may most safely purchase. But the amateur must always
bear in mind that exhibitions afford only one test of merit,
though in respect of that one nothing can be more satisfactory. We
learn much about the qualities of individual flowers, but nothing at
all about the habit of growth, constitution, and willingness or other-
wise to flower freely. We must go to the garden for such informa-
tion ; and, therefore, such papers as we have occasionally from
Mr. Prior, and other practical cultivators, are of immense value, and,
if turned to the best account, tend to save the amateur many a
wasteful outlay, and many a bitter disappointment. No one would
conclude Louis XIV. to be otherwise but one of the most desirable
garden roses from seeing a perfect bloom on an exhibition stand, for
it is unmatched in beauty. Yet so shy is it to flower, that it is now
rarely met with. So, again, no one would learn from an exhibition
that Lord Nelson, 8ir Joseph Paxton, Jules Margottin, and Anna
Alexieff*, are about the most free to bloom, and consequently the
most showy, of all the roses in the garden ; for as to the first two,
they are now never shown at all ; and as to the last, they have nearly
had their day as sho.v flowers, though still worth a place in the list
of most select roses.
Amongst the newer kinds that have attracted special attention
this season, we cannot forget the attractions of Madame Moreau,
Marie JSaumann, Miss Ingram, Madame Hoste, Exposition de Brie,
JShvier Olibo, Marechal JViel, Mrs. Ward, Alfred Colomb, Mar-
guerite St. Amand, Princess Mary of Cambridge, and Thorin. More
than these we might name as characterized by the highest qualities
of show roses, but these are undoabtedly the cream of the additions
made to our lists within the past three years. A few of the older
kinds that still keep a place are so good, that we may almost indulge
the hope, though a hope unpardonable, that they will never be
beaten. At all events, we do not at present believe in the possibility
of a supersession of Gioire de Dijon, Souvenir de la Malmaison,
Jules Margottin, Devonieusis, Souvenir d'un Ami, Victor Verdier,
General Jacqueminot, and some half dozen more ; they appear to be
so good, that anything better is beyond possibility, yet tliey may be
all destined to give place to superior varieties in their several
classes : for in rose-growing, as in all things else, we know not what
a day or an hour may bring forth. But there are some old roses
that still enjoy much favour with exhibitors — a fact which greatly
surprises us, seeing that the kinds we have in our mind now are
really bad, but maintain their popularity by their size and coarseness,
such as Anna de Diesbach and Colonel de Eougemont. Surely, if
these can be set aside, it will be a great benefit, for a perfect form is
far to be desired above mere size and colour, as virtue and beauty
are to be preferred to power and riches.
In comparing our various notes made at exhibitions and in
gardens, we have resolved to recommend the following as the best
roses in cultivation. No two cultivators will agree in every par-
ticular, but very few, we feel assured, among competent judges, will
raise a question as to the desirability of the following having a place
in every rosarium in Britain : —
228 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
White and Light Eose-coloueed Varieties. — Abel Grand,
Alpaide de Eut.ilier, Acidalie, Alba Roifea, Comtesse de Jaucourt
{Cocliet)^ Devoiiiensis, La Grioire de Bourdeaux, Josephine de
Beauharnais, Louise Darzens, Louise Magnan, Madame Alfred de
Rougemont, Mdlle. Marguerite Dombrain, Mrs. Rivers, Mdlle.
Bonnaire, Madame Koussett, Comtesse de Palikao, Madame
Stella, Madame Derreux Douville, Mdlle, Emain, Madame Gustave
Bonnet, Marguerite de St. Amand, Mons. Noman (Giiillot pere).
Princess Mary of Cambridge, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Fanny
Petzold, Madame de MacMahon, Emotion,
Ceimson and Daek-coloueed A^arieties. — Admiral La Pej-
rouse, Abraham Lincoln, Alfred de Roug.'mont, Beauty of Waltham,
Charles Lefebvre, Duke of Wellington, Duchesse de Medina Coeli,
Eran9ois Louvat, General Jacqueminot, Hotace Yernet {Giiillot fils) ,
Lord Clyde, Marechal Souchet (Guillofs), Monsieur Boncenne,
Madame Moreau, Prince Camillede Rohan, Pierre Notting, Souvenir
de Wm. Wood, Thorin, Xavier Olibo, Yicomte Yigier.
Pine:, Red, and Caemine-coloueed Yarieties. — Abbe Ber-
leze, Achille Gonod, Adrienne Marx {Granger), Alfred Colomb,
Baron Gonella, Camille Bernardin, Charles Yerdier {GuiUot pere),
Charles Rouillard, Comtes~e de Chabrilland, Due de Rohan, Duchesse
de Caylus, Exposition de Brie, Fisher Holmes, Francois Lacharme,
Glorie de Yitry, Ipswich Gem, Jean Goujon, John Hopper, Jules
Mar^ottin, Madame de Cambaceres, Midame Julie Daran, Mrs.
Charles Wood, Madame Yictor A^erdier, Mdlle. Annie Wood {E.
Verdier), Mdlle. Marie Rady, Marie Beaumaan, Mrs, AYard, Senateur
Yaisse, Yictor A^erdier.
Tello^v Yaeieties, — Celine Forestier, Gloire de Dijon, Mare-
chal Niel, Triomphe de Rennes.
We must refer to page 228 of last year's issue for descriptions
of several of the newer kinds that have this season acquired leading
positions, and that are most properlv considered amongst the best
of all roses known, such as Xavier Olibo, Madame Derreux Douville,
Madame Stella, Duchesse de IMorny, Exposition de Brie, etc. But
we may properly conclude this pgper with descriptions of a few
wbich, as yet, have had no place in the Floeal Woeld, and are
now introduced to our readers for the first time.
3Iiss Ingram. — Medium size, perfectly globular, and exquisitely
finished in form and colour. It is a membt-r of the small but much
valued group of which Mrs. Rivers and Madame A^idot are the two
principal representatives. It has less colour than Mrs. Rivers, and
a far more beautiful foliage than it, or than almost any other hybrid
perpetual, the leaflets being long and glossy, and a rich dark green
colour, with reddish foot-stalks. This variety was raised by Mr.
Ingram, Her Majesty's gardener at Frogmore, and will be sent out
in the coming autumn by Mr. Turner, of Slough. It is likely to
prove the finest rose of 1867.
Madame Hoste. — This is a most beautiful variety, belonging to
the same class of light roses as Mrs. Rivers and Madame Yidot.
It appears to differ from all others in this class in its larger size, and
a decided tone of lilac in the colouring. It is of free growth, and
blooms abundantly.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 229
Madame 3Ioreau. — A rather flat and perhaps quartering rose of
large size, very fiue stout petals, colour brilliant carmine crimson,
shaditis to dark crimson, first-rate.
Duke of Edinburgh. — A fine deep crimson, great in substance,
end massive.
Exposition de Brie. — A large, deep crimson, varying to shades of
carmine in the centre, and purplisli outside.
The foregoing three are very iniicli alike, but which is best of
the three it is impossible at present to say.
Alfred Colomh is most beautiful in form, and justifies all we
said in its praise at page 228 last year. Colour fiery red, with sil-
very turn over, firi>t-rate.
JItchel Bonnet. — We see no merit in this, and hope it will meet
with no encouragement. In form it resembles a wool mat for a
teapot.
Charles Verdier. — Very fine form, the colour bright rose. Must
have a phice in every rose-garden.
Abel Grand. — Large and full, silvery rose, extremely beautiful.
Triomphe de Soissons. — Not so good as Emotion.
Prince de Porcia. — Large, full, almost a good form, but defective
in a few points. In colour most remarkable, being brightest ver-
milion, and a very near approach to scarlet. This will quite su-
persede Eveque de Nisraes.
Thorin. — Large, full, cupped, brilliant crimson, splendid foliage,
one of the finest of the season.
Ville de Lyon (Ducher). — Form globular, and as nearly perfect
as in any other rose known. Colour dark rose. This is a real ac-
quisition, though coming into a class where we have already many
fine roses.
Elizabeth Vtgneron. — Large rosy pink, fine ; sometimes coarse,
but not more so than many varieties that are still considered first-
rate.
Mdlle. 2Iargaret Doinbrain. — Described last year from one
flower v\hich we saw when past its best. A very nice rose, of good
globular form, the colour delicate blush.
Marguerite de St. Amand. — Large, full, most beautiful form,
colour bright pink ; one of the finest roses in its class, and quite
essential in every collection.
As our old friend, Greneral Jacqueminot, is a great favourite,
and was last year threatened with eclip&e, it may interest many of
our readers to know that it has been exhibited in an extraordinary
degree of perfection this season. Mr. Cranston had one in his first
prize, 72, at Birmingham, which measured five inches over, was
completely double, with enormous shell-like petals, and the colour
nearly black. King's Acre, too, has been good this season, and has
been shown in very many stamls. As for Marechal Niel, it is al-
ways good; and the best tiower of the year was one shown in Mr.
Hedge's 48 at the Crystal Palace. Kespecting the much talked-of
yellow perpetual, nothing definite has been heard or seen, and we
must livens best we may on the delightful and, perhaps, delusive
rumours. S. H.
230
PLANTS ADAPTED POR THE PLUNGINa SYSTEM.
SHALL endeavour now to redeem my prnmi!«e of pre-
senting to the readers of the Floral World a cata-
logue of the plants employed in the plunging system at
Stoke Newington during the past ten years. I shall
premise that the reader understands what is meant by
the term " plunging," and is familiar with what has been already
written on the subject. I must further premise that whatever will
suit the taste of the cultivator at the moment of arranging a display
may be used, provided there is no danger of injury by exposure to
the weather. Thus, if at the present time I had a house full of
show pelargoniums in flower, 1 might turn them out and arrange
them in beds, plunged in cocoa-nut fibre, and I should have a bril-
liant effect at once. The plants would not be injured, and they
would probably continue to present a gay appearance for about a
month (this depending on the length of time they had been bloom-
ing before being put to this purpose), and would then need to be
housed again, and their places supplied with other plants. We make
many changes, and use all sorts of things. Ouce this season I had
a fine bed of ferns, with a few elegant flowering plants intermixed,
and the efiect was delightful. Lastly, in respect of these prelimi-
naries, it must be remembered that the display is made in an en-
trance-court expressly prepared for it, the borders consisting of
cocoa-nut fibre for plunging, having good backgrounds of hollies and
other evergreen shrubs, and supported in front with beautiful
mouldings in Ransome's Patent Stone. That all the plants are
grown in pots is, of course, superfluous infoi'mation ; but it cannot
be superfluous to remark that they are j^rown somewhat difl'ereutly
to the style which would be best for any other display. Por ex-
ample, a considerable proportion of the geraniums are never pruned
at all. The consequence is, we can make up beds of geraniums of
any height we please, but usually plants of three to four feet are
most valued, and our giants were not long since intentionally de-
stroyed, because of the trouble occasioned in wintering them. On
the loth of May we had a bed of geraniums in full bloom, and of
all colours intermixed ; the group rose from plants of Christine a
foot high at the edge, to plants of Hibberd's Pet, Stella, Purple
Nosegay, Pink Beauty, and Galanthiflora, four feet high in the
centre — a magnificent spectacle, a month at least in advance of the
planting of bedders in the ordinary way ; and as to the display of
flowers, a gain of two months certainly ; and then no ordinary bed,
with its flat, uniform colouring, could compete with this grand cone
of mixed colours. As geraniums have obtained mention, we
may as well begin with them.
ZoNALE Geeai^iums are the most useful of all the plants that
have been incorporated in our system. There is just one particular
reason, too, why we make a display with these in a manner probably
never seen before, and it is that we turn to account the whole of
our seedlings, except such few as are selected for other and more
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 231
recondite purposes. Perhaps I should add another reason, tliat the
collectioQ of zonales comprises always some 500 different varieties,
and that, therefore, there are plenty of plants to operate with, as
of some of the sorts we grow a dozen or two, and of others only two
cr three. Now, I am always anxious to place our amateur readers
as nearly as possible on a level with myself in respect of any advan-
tages which attend the systems followed here, and I will briefly state
what is the best method to get up geraniums for a grand bed of
mixed colours, grouped as a pyramid, the plants rising from a few
inches to four or five feet high. Collect from all the best kinds at
once a quantity of seed. Give the preference to such as Dr.
Lindley, Magna Charta, John Hampden, H. W. Longfellow, Pink
Beauty, Lady Middleton, May Queen, and others of robust constitu-
tion, and that make tine flowers. Do not save much seed of such
flimsy sorts as Christine, as they make poor pot-plants. If you
have plenty of glass, and can keep a few hundred small plants
through the winter, sow the seed as soon as ripe, and in due time
pot the plants in the smallest pots, and winter them in a warm
house near the glass. If not well off in respect of glass, sow in
February or March, place the seed-pans in a gentle heat, and grow
the plants all the summer in a greenhouse or frame, and get them
into 60-sized pots before the end of August. In March following,
shift them into 48 size, and, as they fill these pots with roots, shift
again to 32 size, and in this size let them flower ; they are all to be
allowed to grow as they please, no stopping, no pruning. In the
course of the second summer — that is to say, in about fifteen months
from the time the seed was sown — they will flower. We flower a
great many in le>s than five months from the time of sowing the
seed, but we say nothing about such things now, because it is
desirable to adapt these notes to the circumstances of the majority
of private cultivators. All the seedlings should remain one full
year in the 32-sized pots, and after that term should be shifted on,
to 24 size, or otherwise disposed of as may be considered most
expedient. The system of cultivation proposed will produce robust
plants varyins: from two to five feet high, with tine heads, and
abundance of flowers of all colours. AVhen packed close together
to form a group, the colours being mixed indiscriminately, their
appearance will so far surpass all other geraniums, that a revolution
in the district is pretty sure to follow. The seedlings are our
stronghold for plunging effects, and it is so easy to raise geraniums
from seed, that I recom.mend all who take to plunging to accompany
it with this great aid to success.
Calceolarias. — Select the kinds for compactness of habit.
The best we have used are Canariensis and Gem. The last named
is a bright yellow, and is the best of all the bedding calceolarias.
To make Hne plants, get some frames, and make beds of half leaf-
mould and half sandy loam, and put in the cuttings in the first week
of Septeii\ber; there let them remain all the winter. At the end of
March take them up carefully, and pot them in 48 size, using
nothing else to fill in except quite rotten hot-bed manure : it must
be rotted to dust. After potting, shut them up close, and give
232 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
regular but moderate supplies of water. Do not at any time wet
the leaves. After a fortnight give air, and at last expose them fully.
By the middle of May, when other people think of beginning to
plant, yours will be in splendid bloom, and, as you will have plenty
of geraniums, you can at once begin summer colouring, not having
to wait two months for flowers, as must always be the case with the
bedding system.
Lobelias. — AVe find it necessary to push these on early, and
stop them frequently, in order to obtain large plants that will quite
cover their pots with flowers. The favourite Specioaand Paxtoniana
are the best, but all are good ; perliaps Blue King would be of great
value for margins to mixed beds. Very fine plants may be grown in
48 size, but we always have a few specimens in 32 size, with heads
eighteen inches across. In growing these we use three parts manure
rotted to powder to one part of sandy loam, and give abundance of
water.
Laege Eloweeing Pelargoniums are, as a rule, not at all
well adapted for this work, but a certain few of the claf*s called
" market flowers" are of great value, because of their abundance of
colour, and, generally speaking, stifi" habit of growth. One of the
best we have is Colleen Bawn, which produces vast quantities of
bright lilac-coloured flowers. "We also use Gauntlet and Brilliant,
and, in fact, have some of these out now (July 19), being their third
bloom this season. They were forced into bloom in January last,
went out of bloom in March ; bloomed again at the begiuning of
May, and w^ere then put out, lasted three weeks, and were then
slightly cut back and put in a sunny house, and have just burst into
bloom again. The plants of Colleen Bawn, that were out all through
the month of June, and until the Gauntlets lately took their places,
have been slightly cut back, and are in a sunny house, to make a
fresh bloom by the time the present Gauntlets are over. A dozen
or two free blooming kinds, with brilliant flowers, may be easily
selected from a good catalogue, or collection. Perhaps I may be
able to present further lists hereafter.
Gladioli are not flrst-rate for the purpose, but they come in at
a season when they are likely to be useful. The best sorts for the
purpose are Brenchleyensis, Monsieur Blouet, and Bowiensis, I
strongly recommend that no other kinds be grown for plunging until
the cultivator has first tried a few to see how they answer, but the
three recommended are all that can be desired. Put three bulbs
each in 32-sized pots, using turfy peat chopped up with about a fifth
part of its bulk of sand. In potting have on the bench a heap of
dry flakes of old manure, and put a little of this over the crocks
instead of moss. When the potting is completed give no water,
and put the pots in a frame or greenhouse, where they will be always
in sight. When the green blade has grown an inch, begin to give
water, but \erj sparingly. Increase the supply as growth proceeds.
Put the pots out of d )ors, plunged to the rim in cocoa-nut fibre,
after the first week in May, and give abundance of water while the
flower spikes are rising. As soon as they begin to show colour,
take them to the spot they are to decorate, and mix them with
THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 233
plants that will compensate for their general leanness of appear-
ance. In about four weeks after the flowering is over, put them in
a sunny frame or greeuhouse, and give no n.ore water ; that is to
say, compel them to ripen and rest. Shake them out as soon as the
leaves begin to turn yellow, and t^pread them on boards or cloths in
the full sun in a greenhouse for a few weeks, and the bulbs will
become hard and ripe, and well prepared to flower freely the next
seasou. We have given up grewiug gladioli for plunging, but we
gave them a fair trial, and took in hand a very large proportion of
all the varieties in cultivation.
IxiAS AND TaiTONiAS ar8 not to be thought of for this purpose,
as a rule. I'or three years we grew a large collection, and most
beautiful they were, yet not at all good plauts for plunging. But
here is something worth telling: Last winter we potted, as usual,
the collection. All were protected from frost, but very enrly —
middle of March, or thereabouts — all were put out to rough it.
Tritonia aurea and Tritonia crocata, the two most beautiful of all, were
found amongst them, rich with flowers, in the first week in June,
and were made use of. It was observed that they were very short
in growth, very showy in colour, better every way than we have
been accustomed to obtain them by ordinary greenhouse or frame
cultivation. I do not strongly recommend them for plunging, but
they are interesting and beautiful, and very well adapted for the
purpose.
Tansy. — Common tansy is too coarse a plant for our purpose ;
but there is a variety of it, called Tanacetum crispum, which Mr.
Salter has true, which we have found to be of great service. Some
years ago, a bit of this plant was put in a border, and it spread fast
and far, and became somewhat of a nuisance. In the spring of the
present year, when I saw it coming up, it struck me that its exqui-
sitely-rich green leaves, almost equal ui beauty to that most beauti-
ful of all ferns, Todea superba, might be of some value for plunging,
so I had a lot of it potted in 60 size, and very soon afterwards they
were appropriated for an outside edge to a group in the jardinet,
and had a most welcome and relreshing appearance. As an edging
to a bed of Mrs. Pollock, or any other strong coloured leaf plant,
this beautiful tansy would be, perhaps, the best plant that could be
found.
Variegated "Willow Heeb. — This is a strange plant for such
artistic work as ours, but now we have adopted it, we shall not be
able to do without it — its beauty is so peculiar and seasonably useful.
Some years ago, I had from Mr. Salter what I think he called
Bpilobium hirsutum, a variegated form. It was planted with
other such things on a rockery, and in due time formed a most
elegant patch, and proved to be Epilohium paroijlorum. In the
spring of the present season, when our old clump began to push, I
had a lot of rooted pieces potted in small pots, and phtced on a bed
of coal-ashes. They soon began to grow, and were very green, so
much so, that I thougHt I had made a mistake. Eut by and by
the variegation broke out beautifully, and they are now in -iS size,
neatly tied to slender stakes, and are exquisitely delicate and
234 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GriDE.
bright, having the most brilliant creamy variegation, in the midst of
which sit the pretty rose-coloured flowers. The poorest soil wms used
— we keep a heap of old stuff shaken out of pots, on purpose tor any
special work of this kind ; rich soil would spoil the variegation of
this plant. The particular purpose to which this plant has been
adapted may be worth explaining. Wishing to go through the
geraniums carefully, to make notes, write new labels, etc., etc., 1
have had the whole collection arranged in groups in another garden,
away from home, where I can spend a few days amongst them, free
from risk of disturbance. In the meanwhile, as we have been
excessively gay with flowers since the end of February last, when
we began with crocuses, snowdrops, and hyacinths, I determined to
have a display of leaves. Accordingly, we prepared a sufiicient
quantity of the following, having long foreseen that we should want
them : Coleus nigricans, Coleus Verschaff'elti, Iresene Herbstii, and
all the new Alternantheras and Teleiautheras, for though these are
here on trial as plants, we could not dream of allowing them to
waste their sweetness on the desert air.
The manner in which the willow herb is used is this — a circular
bed, consit^ting of a large block of the willow herb and Tresene
Herbstii, plant and plant all through, then a bright circle of Mrs.
Pollock geranium, and an edging of Alternant hera spathulata.
However, this particular plant is invaluable, and, if any trouble
about obtaining it, send an order to Mr. Salter for the varieuated
Epilobium, and you will obtain it true. We could make a thousand
plants easily from our clump on the rockery, and I fancy the way
we have managed it is the best possible.
Sedum spectabile. — This is the plant frequently described in
these pages as Sedum f ah avium, but spectabile is its proper name.
It is the easiest plant to grow for plunging ever heard of. Now
that we have a good stock we no longer take cuttings, but divide
•the plants every spring as soon as they begin to grow. We get
heads fifteen inches over in five- inch pots, and they never have any
shelter; it is, in fact, one of the hardiest plants in cultivation. Our
whole stock, which is a large one, has been used three times already
in grouping, for the sake of its folinge ; but its proper season will be
September, when the flowers appear, and are extremely welcome for
their carious shade of creamy pink.
Tall Lobelias. — Having for several years given up the cultiva-
tion of Lobelia cardinalis, and others of that section, I was amused
to find that Mr. Bull, of Chelsea, had taken them in baud for im-
provement, and I took in hand a dozen new varieties sent ©ut by
him, the price of the set of twelve being fifty shillings. They have
proved marvels of beauty for fine habits of growth and brilliant
flowers. Here they will take the place of gladioli, and give less
trouble. The way to manage these is to grow them in rich soil,
and with ample pot room, and give abundance of water, keeping the
plants in a cool house from October to April, and out of doors all
other times. Those who are not disposed to buy Mr. Bull's
new varieties at fi.ve shillings per plant, may do very well with
the old varieties at sixpence each, for they are all good ; the
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN aUIDE. 235
one only point requisite to do justice to them is to grow them
liberally.
Next month I shall proceed with the list, but I do not expect
I can fairly finish it until towards the end of the year. S. II.
SOME JAPANESE PLANTS SUITABLE FOE ENGLISH
GAKDENS.
BY KAEL PROSPEB.
TJEING- the past few years a number of most beautiful
hardy, or nearly hardy shrubs, have been introduced
from Japan. They have scarcely been appreciated as
yet in English gardens, and I should perhaps not have
thought to write a few words about them unless I had
seen lately, in visiting a garden, a great collection planted out, and
such a beautiful appearance they [)resented, that I thought them
far more entertaining than the most splendid flowers. The lustre
of the leaves, the interesting forms, the variety of character— all
impressed me, and, though so familiar with these plants that I may
truthfully say I have propagated tens of thousands of them, yet
they seemed all new to me, for this was the first time I had seen
tbem generously dealt with and tastefullv displayed.
The proprietor of this garden had formed what he called a
" Japanese ground," which is quite as reasonable a proceeding as
the formation of an American ground. In beds of various kinds of
soil he had planted various Japanese shrubs, the system being to
use three kinds of soil— say, No. 1, good turfy peat ; No. 2, mellow,
silky, yellow loam ; No. 3, poor sandy loam, with a large quantitv of
sweepings of gravel walks added to render it still more gritty. 'All
the Skimmias were planted in pure peat, with a few variegated
plants intermixed to enrich the bed. AH the robust-habited, green-
leaved shrubs, such as the green Osmanthuses, were planted in
pure mellow loam of a nourishing kind. Lastly, between the beds
of green plants were beds of the gritty stuff, filled with variegated
plants. Thus the requirements of each were met, and taste was
consulted too. I leave it to the reader to discover how best to
appropriate these plants, contenting myself with offering a few notes
upon those which are most likely to be useful.
AucuBAS. — The newer kinds are, in many instances, remarkable
for the beauty of their leaves, and they will grow in any soil. If a
male plant be pub here and there in a*^ group, there is no doubt the
females in the same groups will all bear berries, without the necessity
of being fertilized. At all events, J have found this to be the case
under glass ; for I have seen half a dozen large plants bear berries
where there was only one small mule in flower, and only one spike of
flowers produced. The most beautiful of the new Aucubas are the
following : — A. foemina viridis, a glistening green shrub of rapid
236 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
growth and much beauty ; interesting, too, because it is the original
or normal form of the common aucuba of our gardens, ^-f' lanci-
folia varieyafa, with an elegant margin of gold; A.f. elegantissima,
rich yellow blotch ; A. f. macropliylla^ an enormous leaf, of a light
spinach-green colour. Of males the best are, A. mascida hicolor,
leaf with broad stripe of yellow; A. on. varia, wiih bright yellow
blotch ; and A. m. maculafa, richly spotted. It must be remembered
that all the plauts ot" these new aucubas sent out from the nurseries
are grafted on the comtnon aucuba. In planting them out, therefore,
plant rather deep, so that the scar will be covered ; and if suckers
arise from the roots, destroy them.
OsMANTHUS iLiciFOLiA. — Of this plant there are several
varieties with green leaves and variegated leaves, and all are
beautiful. The lover of interesting plants should certainly have a
few of each kind, but 1 do not think, wiiile we have the hardy and
beautiful holly, that any osmanthus is entitled to very high conside-
ration.
EuBTA LATTFOLIA VAEiEGATA. — An extremely beautiful and
distinct shrub, the ovate leaves highly variegated with cream colour.
The young leaves are glossy brown, the shoots deep purple. When
this becomes large it is a splendid object ; therefore, 1 advise it to be
planted out in a sheltered spot in poor soil. It may be propagated
by putting cuttings in a frame in July and August, and is well
adapted for pot culture for the conservatory.
Ilex roBXUXEi. — An insignificant plant, not worth a place any-
where except in a botanic garden. It has one good quality — it will
grow anywhere, in sun or shade, in rich or poor soil, and soon makes
a thick tuft.
EuoNTMCJs LATiFOLiA AUEEA. — This bears so many different
names, that I am not at all sure it will be found under the name I
give (and which is the proper one) in all the nurseries. First of all,
procure the old and well-known Euonymus Japonica, with golden
leaves, tlien look for a plant with larger leaves, of a much
brighter gold colour ; and if you succeed in finding it, you will have
JE. latifolia var. aurea, one of the most beautiful variegated plants
known. Take cuttings of this in August, and shut them up in a
frame, and in due time you will have nice plauts. It is a fine subject
to form an edging to a compartment of shrubs, also to decorate the
conservatory in winter. One called Aurea marginata is very boldly
marked wiih creamy edges.
Euo>TMUs EADiCAis's TAEiEGATA. — This may easily be obtained
true. It forms a brilliant edging to a bed if pegged down, and is
largely employed in this way in Battersea Park. Strike cuttings in
August. It is as hardy as a holly, perhaps hardier than some
hollies.
Berbeeieopsis corallina is a free-growing dark green climber,
which produces handsome red flowers. I have seen it thriving on
open walls in the south and west of England ; and where it will not
endure the winter exposed, it is well worth a place in the conserva-
tory to cover a wall or pillar.
Eleag^'us keelexcs. — Elegant in growth, and forming a half-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 237
weeping bush, the ovate leaves richly margined with amber or cream
colour.
Rkttxospora ltcopodioides. — A lovely little bush, of a dark
green colour, the growth of which resembles that of a dense sela-
giuella. I have not seen it grown well in pots, but I am quite sure
that, with proper care, it would make a superb pot plant.
Retinospora obtusa. — This forms a large tree, and is one of the
most beautiful of all the recent introductions from Japan. In style
of growth it bears some resemblance to Cupressus Lawsoniana. It
is certainly hardy.
Tnujopsis DOLABRATA. — One of the most distinct, hardy, and
beautiful coniferous trees in the world. It is too well known to
need to be described, but the variegated form, every growing point of
which is of the brightest gold colour, should be found in every
choice garden.
Bambusa Fortukei. — A beautiful hardy bamboo, with creamy
striped leaves. Fine for an edginor to a large bed, and fit for a
hundred purposes. A few days ago, I saw this in great quantity in
a nursery where plants are grown for market. I asked, " What do
you want with this ?" The answer was, " To cut for bouquets — one
of the best things in that way we've got." It is of small growth,
risins: a foot at the most.
All the foregoing are adapted for the choicest gardens, and they
have the advantage of being quite hardy, and, once planted, will
increase in value from year to year.
LASTREA ^MULA.
HIS scarce and beautiful fern rarely succeeds under
cultivation, and hence we do not often meet with it in
cultivation, or in collections of ferns at exhibitions.
Numerous as are elegant plants amongst the species of
ferns, few equal or surpass this in elegance, whether we
note particularly its finely-divided, bright green fronds, or the grace-
fully half-pendant character of a fine specimen. It is the " hay-
scented " or "triangular prickly-toothed buckler fern" of the rustic
herbarium ; but as it is not the only hay-scented or prickly-toothed
fern we have, such designations are delusions. In JNewman's
"History of British Ferns," it is described under the name of
Lastrea recurva, elsewhere as Polypodium cemulum^ and Lophodiicm
ftenisecii. It has a stout, tufted caudfx, and long, stout, wirv, dark
brown roots. The stipes, usually about half the length of the frond,
brownish purple, the rachis greenish, and stipes and rachis beset
with small spherical glands. Fronds twelve to twenty inches long,
rich bright i^reen, drooping, gibbous lance-shaped or elongate trian-
gular. The pinnce opposite or alterruite, the pinnules oblique,
oblong, more or less pinnatifid, the margins lobed and toothed,
the whole frond having a delicate crispy appearance. The fructifica-
238
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
tion covers the whole of the under surface, and consists of round,
brown spore cases, which add much to the beauty of this fern. It
is evergreen, widely distributed, but only attains to a luxuriant
condition of growth in mild, moist climates ; hence, though occasion-
ally met with in the east of England, it is never so beautiful as in
LASTREA ^MULA.
the west. This circumstance gives the key to its cultivation. Ou
the open rockery it rarely thrives, except in districts where it is
found wild, in good condition ; but in the cool fernhouse, or the
"Wardian case, it grows freely, and requires absolutely no care beyond
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 239
a needful supply of moisture. If never visited with a breath of air,
it is none the worse ; and, on the other hand, expoj^ure to wind is
decidedly injurious to it. Some years ago, when pLmting an arti-
ficial cave, under glass, with ferns, we inserted a plaut of Lastrea
ajmula in a rather dark and ob;'D GARDEN GUIDE. 245
not have them on the table while peas are in season. So the diffi-
culty in dividing it to suit all parties, will be apparent to the
reader.
THE CULTUEE OF TEICOLOE-LEAYED PELAE-
GONIUMS.
BY ME. F. T. SMITH, OF THE DULWICH NUESEET.
SHOET time since I prepared some notes on tricolor
pelargoniums, the results of observations made during
the process of raising the several varieties which have
been exhibited bv us in various parts of England during
the past two seasons. I have revised these notes for
the Eloeal AVohld, and hope they may prove generally useful.
GrARDEN CuLTiYATioN. — It n)ay be supposed that the middle
of May has arrived, and a sufficient stock of plants has been
secured for the purpose of planting in beds on the lawn, here two or
three preliminary matters should be referred to. Firist, the drainage
of the beds. If the surface soil lies on gravel, or any open sub-
stratum which permits the passage of water freely, it is well ; if, on
the contrary, the subsoil is clay, or of any other retentive material,
it should be taken out, and nine inches of coarse brick rubbish or
broken pottery put in, placing immediately over it some fresh turf
from a meadow, the grass under; over this, fill in the upper soil,
which should be a light sandy fibrous loam, to which add a good
dressing of decayed leaves or well- rotted stable manure ; if on clay
land, the bed may be raised two or three inches, as a further security
against wet and, consequently, cold, which is very prejudicial to the
well-doing of the plants. Avoid sunk beds, they are so many small
reservoirs for surface water in rainy weather ; the soil then becomes
saturated, the roots diseased, and that spotting of the foliage and
rottenness of the young points occur ; this effect is more certain if
the atmosphere becomes cold for any length of time after heavy rain.
Many growers use a portion of peat soil in the compost for
growing these plants ; this has no other influence than ligbtening
the soil — leaf-mould, rotten manure, and cocoa-nut fibre refuse
answer tt^e purpose much better. Our experience is against the use
of peat, on account of a greater proportion of plants grown par-
tially in it becoming much more diseased than a corresponding
number grown in soil such as recommended above. Where the
natural soil is deficient of sand, a portion of river or any other clean
free sand may be added.
Choose the situation for beds lying as much to the south as pos-
sible, and also protected from strong cutting winds, which have a
tendency to turn the edges of the leaves brown.
Various plans have been adopted in order to show up the colours
of the leaves when bedded out in masses — the neutral tints of the
Centaureas have been used by planting them as edgings round the
beds, and in mixing them among the plants. One of the best eftects
246 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
yet seen was when Lobelia speci'osa was planted, plant for plant, among
the tricolors, the blue forming a very effective and pleasing ground
colour, on which the gold and crimson leaves of the tricolors shone
out brilliantly in the summer sun. Many other experiments will be
made during the season for this purpose : at present our experience
is but limited.
Having enjoyed the beauty of these plants during the summer
season, and September drawing near, the utilitarian thought arises of
securing the increase. IF the season is damp, the cuttings should
be taken off not later than the second week of the month ; it the
situation is warm and airy, the operation may be deferred for a week
or two longer, but there is danger from frost and wet in so doing ; in
the earlier part of the month the cuttings are more fitted to root, and
get established before winter : these should be inserted in thumb-
pots singly, using very sandy loam only. Place the pots on gentle
bottom-heat, using v.ater very sparingly, and in three weeks they
will be sufficiently rooted.
By the middle of October, at latest, the old plants should be
carefully lilted, the soil shaken off the roots, w^hich should be slightly
trimmed ; place them in as small pots as will conveniently contain
them ; put them on gentle bottom-heat for a fortnight, when they
may be moved to the greenhouse, on airy shelves, using water
sparingly duiing the winter months.
GtRE E^^HO u sE OR CoNSEEYA TOET CuLTURE. — It is here, in a greater
degree than in the open garden, the writer anticipates an increased
araouut of pleasure will be derived. Under glass the plants are un-
affected by rain and storms ; here the amateur may enjoy an unin-
terrupted survey of the wondrous changes wrought (instrumentally)
by the hand of man. To the uninitiated it may seem enough to possess
one or two varieties, but to the trained eye of the connoisseur the
distinguishing characteristics of even one hundred varieties are
plainly visible.
Some of the varieties produce leaves of a light hue, which intensify
in colour as they advance in age ; others, again, are dark in their drst
state, and get lighter. Again, one or tw^o varieties in our possession
produce leaves both dark in zone and bright yellow on the edge of
the leaf; these change gradually — the zone becomes scarlet, the
edge of the leaf nearly white.
The tricolors delight in light, free air, and during the winter
months and all cold weather a dry atmosphere ; in hot summer wea-
ther a thin shade is requi?ite from ten a.m. to three p.m. To describe
a structure suitable for these conditions, let us propose a span-roofed
house, as admitting the greatest degree of light : this should be at
the angle of 45^, with a roof ventilator the whole length of the
house — the width should be, say twelve feet ; side-lights may be
dispensed with, but ventilators, extending the whole length on each
side, should exist. These may be near the ground, so as to admit the
air under or opposite the pipes — thus warming it as it enters the
house ; the inside needs but a row of slate slabs, three feet six inches
to four feet wide, on each side ; the pipes for heating should be two
rows, of four inches, on each side. It is, by far, better to have too
much heating power than too little in this uncertain climate.
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 247
In regard to temperature, there is no doubt that most variegated
plants are more tender than tlie same species green, and tricolors
require from five to ten degrees more warmth than the ordinary
zonale. But to have tliem in colour in the autuirin and winter
requires air as well as lieat ; there must, therefore, be a corre-
spoudiug amount of heat kept up to modify and warm the admitted
outer atmosphere — fifty degrees is the minimum and sixty the max-
imum at which, with admitted air (without sun-heat), it is desirable
to keep them — and if this can be done night and day (except in
dangerous frost) the plants will grow more robust ; in sunny days,
of course, the heat will range higher, but if the ventilation is good,
eighty degrees will not hurt the foliage or deteriorate the health of
the plants.
The proper periods for shifting on these plants vary with the
intention of the grower and the condition of the plants ; but the first
spring shift should not take place before the middle of February, and
if the plants have been kept at a lower temperature than here indi-
cated, the operation may be deferred to the end of the month ; these
may be again shitted, according to their strength of head and root,
into large pots for the season, about the end of April or middle of
May. When autumn arrives such as have been cut down may be
disrooted and re-potted in smaller pots, as before directed for out-door
plants from the beds. All those plants intended for winter decora-
tion should consist of young plants potted in July ; these will not
require to be shifted before February.
Watering should at all times be commensurate with their actual
want at the time. Never water them so heavily as to last two or
three days beyond their need ; this is too frequently done by incon-
siderate persons, particularly if the plant be rather dry and the day
warm, whereas no one knows what a day may bring forth; many
plants are ruined by this overdose of water, followed by cold, cloudy
weather, or an accidental lowering of the temperature of the house.
If these remarks apply in summer, they have double force in winter,
when very careful watering is requisite.
Manure of various kinds has been tried in liquid form, but without
any apparent benefit or superiority over the plants grown in soils as
before recommended, the conclu:sion arrived at being against its use,
as detrimental to health, evidenced from a number so treated becoming
sickly in winter m a much greater degree than those grown in sandy
loam and decayed manure or leaves. In potting for winter, use a
larger amount of drainage (say one-third), and pot rather lighter
than for spring ; it is a good plan to secure the main stem with a
stick to steady the plant; tie out ttie laterals to admit light and air
among the foliage, and be careful to remove all decaying flowers,
leaves, and even the small leafiets ; if not removed, they generate
mildew or fungus, which attacks the bark, ascends to the tender
centre of the shoot, and causes that punctured appearance on the
foliage, frequently destroying the plant.
248
PEOPAGATION AND PRESERYATIOX OF BEDDIXG-
PLANTS.
BY JOHN r. m'eleot.
[X respect of the management of bedding-plants, we are
too prone to delay commencing propagation till the
autumn months are fast gaining on us. This does not
arise from indolence, but often from the many urgent
jobs that require doing at that particular season, such
as cropping, fruit gathering, and, withal, striving to maintain the
garden in good trim whilst the flowers are in their prime. Then,
again, we do not like to sacrifice any bloom while the beds are in
perfection. However, my experience from failures as well as suc-
cesses has taught me that as soon as we have finally completed our
bedding for the season we should think about selecting a spot and
preparing the same for cuttings. Por Verbenas I get a one or a
two-light box, in accordance with the quantity we may require ; this
is placed on a spent dung-bed, with the back against a wall or fence,
so as to be well shaded from the mid-day sun, leaning as the frame
should towards the north. I then spread on the surface, to a depth
of three or four inches, some light soil, sifting over the same a small
quantity of silver-sand. By the second week in July we obtain
from each variety as many short-jointed cuttings as we consider
requisite. These, after due preparation, are dibbed in the frame
rather thickly, leaving a margin betwixt each sort ; then, by the
aid of a fine rose fixed to the watering-pot, we sprinkle them so as
to cause the sand to firmly settle the soil. After this, we keep the
lights closed until we observe signs of rooting, unless it may be
to open them for a short time early in the morning in order that the
condensed moisture may escape. If July passes, and this work is
not done, we hurry to it in the very earliest days of August, knowing
that further delay will be dangerous.
A little judgment is required to be exercised in shading, as we
must not exclude any more light than will prevent them from
drooping, or otherwise they will become weakly in their growth.
Look over them at intervals, and clear them of any foul or decayed
leaves, and if insects make their appearance fumigate with to-
bacco at once, as they suck away the sap which is necessary for
healthy growth, and by the loss of which cuttings will ultimately
dwindle away. When we perceive a general sign of rooting, we
occasionally syringe them gently on warm evenings, and afl'ord them
during the dny a moderate quantity of air. When we consider they
are sufficiently rooted, they are fully exposed, and we pinch oif their
tops ; and as soon as they begin to push out shoots from the re-
maining eyes we commence potting, putting three plants in a
60-8ize pot, which is very much better than crowding them in a
larger pot — that is, supposing you have room for shelving them
during the winter, as in the spring they will the better sustain the
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 249
shift in potting them singly, if you require it, or otherwise you can
let them remain till the period of planting, and they will scarcely
receive a check if you divide the ball in three parts with a
knife.
Some sorts of Yerbenas strike better from the young shoots
produced by being grown in heat in the spring, such as Purple
King. As this variety is very liable to become a prey during the
dry autumn months to thrip, observation will teach you which are
the kinds that will not succeed in being propagated readily in the
autumn. The plan is then to pot off singly in the spring as many
as you may want for obtaining cuttings for the following spring,
and keep them in a shady part of the garden. Shift and stop, and
so preserve a thrifty state o^' growth.
Variegated Alyssum, all kinds of Tropaeoliims, and other similar
bedding-plants, strike freely in a cold frame, if put in at the same
time as the Yerbenas, and treated accordingly ; and withstand damp
and other diseases to which they are subject better than the late
propagated plants. "When the work of propagating Yerbenas, etc.,
is completed, commence with the variegated Geraniums, selecting for
the purpose a sheltered border of good friable soil. jS^othing is
more vexing to a gardener than to have to cut his plants while in
bloom. The best way to proceed is to obtain cuttings from the
beds every alternate fortnight, from the middle of July till the
latter part of August; the first two batches we strike in the border;
the others are put — say about twelve or fifteen cuttings — in a
32-size pot, well crocked, as we allow them to remain all the winter
in these pots before they are potted singly. Do not crowd the pots
together, as the shoots when they commence growing get weak
and soft, which causes them to turn black and decay during the
winter. Just above the surface of the soil remove all withered
leaves from the cuttings, both in the border and in the pots. When
the former are rooted pot them singly into 60-sizepots; these, by
judicious stopping, will make nice bushy plants by the spring.
In reference to Calceolaria cuttings turning black, it is seldom
that this happens generally, unless the plants, previous to obtaining
them, have been exposed to frost. Nothing is easier to propagate
than bedding Calceolarias, and the middle of September is quite
soon enough for the purpose, as they root freely either in pots or
in a cool frame, if kept free from insects, damp, and frost, though
some weeks may elapse before they are properly rooted. There are
no months in the year when so much attention is required in the
preservation of bedding and other soft-wooded plants as November
and December. Pire-heat should be used, if the weather is foggy
and wet, at least under all circumstances once a week, and es-
pecially after watering ; the fire should be lighted in the morning,
and allowed to go out early in the evening. Give plenty of air
daring the day, unless the weather is frosty.
250
ANKUALS POR THE GEEENHOUSE IN EARLY SPRING.
illGNONETTE,
MAKE three sowings for spring flowering— the first in the second week of
August, tlie second about the end, and the third in the second week of
September ; those for spei iraen plants I sow in pots of the size called
48, and those for remaining as they are in 32. Tlie soil I u^e is half
peat and half leaf-mould, well incorporated together, and passed
through a very coarse sieve. The parts of the peat that remain in the sieve 1 lay
above the potsherds, to secure proper drainage. I sow the seed moderately thin, and
cover it slightly with snil composed of sand and peat passed through a fine sieve. I
then water the pots, and put them in a frame, and keep it neaily close shut up till
the seed vegf tares ; and then the lights are pulled oif in fine weather, to prevent the
plants being drawn up wenk ; but I put them on in heavy rains. 1 thin them cut
as soon as I can take hold of them with ease ; I tiiin them twice, leaving at the
last four plants in the 48 size, and six in the 32. If the weather is tine, 1 let them
remain till the middle of October ; if otherwise, I remove them to a >he\£ c.ose to
the glass in the greenhouse, where they get plenty of air; and iu a short time they
are in flower. Those of the second sowing 1 prefer for specimen plants. When the
pots are well filled with roots, so that they are protruding throujih the bottom of
the pots, I shifc them into a size larger; those in 48"s I shift into 32's, and tliose in
the latter flower much longer and finer by being shifted into 24's. I use the same
soil, but not sifted ; then tie up the plants to small stakes. At the time tiiC}' require
shifting, the leading shoot will be in flower, which I pinch off those plants. About
the beginning of January they will require another sliift into No. 24's ; at this shift
I add a third of light rich loam to the former compost, and take in thestiongest
lateral shoot for a leader ; at this period the laterals will be flowering, which T pinch
off: they will now begin to ^I'ow rapidly, and proper attentiun should be paid to
watering. By adopting the above treatment I had plants three feet high, and two
feet in diameter, which kept on flowering till the middle of May.
XEMOPHILA IXSIGNIS.
I sow the seed at the same time as the mignonette, viz., the beginning of August,
under hand-glasses, removing the glasses as so .n as the plants are above the sur/ace.
I thin them out to prevent tlieir being drawn up weak. When the plants are a good
size, I put them into 60's, one iu a pot, if strong, but sometimes three ; and 1 give
them a good watering overhead, and place them in any sheltered situation, but fully
exposed to the sun. About the middle of October I t-ike the strongest, and repot
them into 4S's, and tie up the branches to five or more sticks in each pot ; I then
place them in a cold pit, giving them all the air that is possible. About the beginning
of December some will be required to be shifted into 32's, to be in flower in February,
and the others I shifc in succession into 24's "When 1 shift them into the pots I
intend them to flower in, I stick in four wiilows at regular distances round the pot,
and, bending the two opposite, 1 bring them together at top in the form of a balloon;
those in 32-pots about two feet and a half above the pot, and those iu 24's three feet.
I then put hoops of strong wire round the willows, the first six inches above the pit,
the other eighteen inches above it, securing them firm to the willows. 1 then tie fine
threads of matting at regular distances between the two hoops, to train the shoot to
■which, when they reach the top, I allow them to hang down on the other side* The
reason why I train them in the manner described is this: — if trained on straight
sticks, as soon as they get to the top they break down, not being able to support
themselves, and thus leave all the top part without any flowers. Another way is
not to tie them up at all, but let tliem hang down all over the pot. In doing them
this way I keep them on shelves, to prevent tlieir clamping off. In placing them in
the greenhouse, the pots should be plac&d above the height of the visitor, it being
unsightly, not having many flowers nev the roots. Also stakes can be driven into tlie
border of the conservatory, and pots placed on the top, the shoots hanging down and
covering the stake. The plant has in this manner a fine effect j in a word, it has
only to be seen to be admired.
THE FLOEAL WORLD AKD GAEDEN GUIDE. 251
SCniZANTHUS PIXNATA.
I treat this in the same manner as the Neniophila, except the trainincr ; it
requires only one stick in tlie centre. With proper care, this niuy be grown into a
pyramid five feet high, freely brandling from the base. The s;ime soil as recom-
mended for the Mignonette will suit the Nemophila and the Schizanthus. A. S.
EOUECEOYA LONG.EYA.
HE Fourcroya longreva, Karw. and Zucc. (Amaryllidaceae), has been
discovered by Zuccarini, near Oaxaca, in Mexico, near tlie summit of
Mount Tanga, at an altitude above the sea of 10,000 feet, and in other
parts of that vast country in similar positions. There, according to
that botanist, its trunk or stipe attains a hei^lit of from forty to nfty
feet, and a diameter of from twelve to eighteen inches, always simple — tliat is to say,
without i-am'.fications, it carries tlie cicatrices of the fallen leaves. At the summit
is a vast and raagnihcent sub^irbicular crown of very numerous sword-shaped leaves,
from five to six feet in length. From the centre of this crown rises tlie floral scape,
which attains from tbirty-six to forty feet in height, ramified from the base, the
branches having there a horizontal development nearly equal to the height of the
scape — that is to say, twelve to fifteen feet each. The innumerable flowers, fascicu-
lated, from 3 5, are gieen, with cream-coloured limb, resembling a star. They emit
an extremely powerful odour, which, if inspired too near, ceases to be agreeable,
and becomes powerfully nauseous.
Such is a faithful portrait of this remarkable vegetable ; and the reader may
judge tor himself what a grand picturesque efl"ect it must have in its native moun-
tains in the eyes of the enchanted traveller.
It lias existed for several years already in the collections of the principal
amateurs and horticulturists, and has had many erroneous names applied to it, ^uch
as Yucca species. Yucca Parmentieri, Y. argt/rophi/lla, Agave species., inermis, etc.
Very recently we found it announced in the circular of a nurservman as constituting
a distinct genus, under the name of Roezlia rtgia, and where the flowers were
falseiy described as being double the size of Polyanthes tiihernsa, and of the same
odour ; it is scarcely necessary for us to say that there is no necessity whatever for
a new genus. We regret that we cannot here give a figure which would at oiic-i set
the question at rest as to the flowers, by examining those of F.jlavo-viridis.
As it invariably happens with all exotic plants which in their own countries
attain to a grent elevation and considerable developments, this one in our green-
houses is comparatively dwarf, but has nevertheless always a grand and picture.-que
efi'ect. Thus, with the individual which flowered with M. L. de bmet, of Ghent,
in 1863, the trunk or stipe was not more than twenty or thirty inches in height, and
this was surmounted by a superb tuft or crown of very numerous gladiate leaves,
less than three feet long, of a bluish, glaucous green, having an irregular and deeply-
furrowed surface, ruggedly granular, the edges very fine, and imperceptibly denticu-
lated. Their disposition, accordinjt^ to their stage of development, makes a very
pretty appearance ; the inferior ones are decumbent, the middle ones horizontal,
and the superior rising. From the centre rises a cylindrical scape, very robust,
more than nme feet high, clad from the base to a quarter of its lenj^th with leaves
and largo bracts, very distant, acuminated, and carrying a pannicle exactly
pyramidal, the longest ramifications (those at the base) being not less than ten to
fifteen inches long ; these are very numerous, horizontal, and carry innumerable
flowers, pendant, germinate, ternate, quarternate, or quinate, rarely solitary.
It is a plant which will become indispensable to complete a good greenhouse
collection, in company with Agaves, Yucca, Dasylirium, and Beauearnea.
252 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
NEW PLANTS.
RTESEA GIGANTEA, Gigantic Vriesea {rillust Bort, t. 516).—
Bromeliacea. A Brazilian plant of fine character, the leaves are radical,
the inflorescence a huge raceme of greenish white flowers, the stem and
hracts pale rose.
Camellia. Angelo Cocchi {Vlllust. Eort., t. 518). — A large,
rather flat, rather rough flower, white, marbled, and patched with pinky red.
Drab A Violacea, Violet-fioioered Whitlow grass {Bot. Mag., t. 56 0). — Cru-
ciferjE. An extremely pretty species from the Andes ; it is of shrubby hahit, with
neat elliptic leaves, and fine showy heads of violet crimson flowers.
Ipom^ea Gerrahdi, Gerrard's Ipomcea {Bot. Mag., t. 5651). — A fine species
from Natal, where it is known as the " wild cotton." The stems proceed from a stout
woody root stock, leaves rounded-cordate, flowers large, salver-shaped, white,
clothed with brown wool.
RuDGEA Macrophylla, Zarge-leaved Undgea {Bot. Mag., t. 5653). — A mag-
nificent stove shrub from South America, The leaves are one to two feet long,
obovate-oblong, coriaceous, a fine dark-green colour, the flowers in globose heads,
creamy white, the corollas fui)nel-sliaj>ed, thick in texture.
Epidendrum Cooperiaxum, Mr Cooper' s Epidendrum {Bot, Mag., t. 5654). —
This is a good species, of extremely neat habit, the flowers are produced in a diffu-
sive raceme, sepals and petals yellowish brown, lip rose red.
Gloxinia Htpoctrtiflora, Hypocirta-flowered Gloxinia {Bot. Mag., t.
5655). — A pretty and rather curious species from the Quitenian Andes. The
leaves are vivid grass-green, with hold white veins ; the flowers small, globose,
oranc;c red.
GARDEN GUIDE FOR AUGUST.
Kitchen Garden. — The most important work this month is the sowing of seeds
for crops to stand the winter, such as turnip, spinach, cabbage, cauliflower, and
endive. The best date for sowing must depend on the district. It is not advisable
to be too early, as in the event of a severe winter large fat plants suffer more than
small lean ones. But if sown too late, there will be no plant at all, for the growing
season is fast passing away. Generally speaking, the first week in August is the
proper time to sow all these things, but in the South of England it may be done a
month later. As a definite date is always useful to cultivators Avho have not had
much experience, we recommend all seeds intended to stand the winter to he sown
hetween the 7th and 20th.
Flower Garden. — Very few people know anything of the beauty of annuals,
because very i&^ people practise autumn sowing. Now is the time to sow hardy
annuals of all kinds to stand the winter, for an early and vigorous bloom next
season. All the Californian annuals are suitable ; in fact, there is nothing among
hardy annuals worth sowing but will stand the winter, if sown the first v/eek in
August, on hard ground.
Fruit Garden. — Nail in at once the new growth of wall-trees, to promote its
hardening. Grafting, or rather inserting buds with a heel of wood attached, is a
good deal practised on the continent at this time of year. Fruit spurs, skilfully
grafted now, will fruit next season as well as if they had been left on their
parent trees.
Greenhouse and Stove. — Make ready for housing tender subjects, and keep a
sharp look-out for a supply of winter flowers. A great many seeds may be sown
now, where thera is convenience for keeping the little plants safely through the
winter.
*** Past issues of the Floral World contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar adapted for reference.
For these reasons the " Garden Guide "will be on a contracted scale this year.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 253
NEWS OF THE MONTH.
Exhibitions of Roses have been more numerous than heretofore. The season
began with the Crystal Palace Show, on the 29fh of June. This was followed
by the Royal Horticultural a week after, and then came the Birmingham,
Hereford, and Rugby meetings in quick succession. Since all these— not in
advance of them, as might have been expected — the rose-show at Brie-Cumte-
Rubert has taken place, and this being in the land of roses, and supported by ihe
principal French rai.sers, might have been expected to eclipse all ours, but it Avas
not so, for it was absolutely inferior to the Birmingham show, as respects the quality
of the roses, though in the mode of display it was characterized by a taste and
finish to which we have not yet attained. Tiie Crystal Palace exhibition was
**good, considering." The fact is, for such an untoward season, the date was too
early. But the growers did their best, and there were some thousands of fine
blooms exhibited. Tlie best of the rose-shows was unrloubtedly that at Birmingham,
where the spacious Town Hall was generously granted for the purpose by tlie Cor-
poration. At Brie-Comte-Robert one exhibitor put up 600 varieties. All the roses
were displayed on the grotind, being formed into rich groups on sloping beds of
moss. The eifect of tasteful grouping was novel and delightful, but there were no
such fine flowers as v.'e meet with at our own shows, and the varieties were the
same as we have already in cultivation. After the rose-shows, the most important
of the month was that held at Bury St. Edmunds, by the conjoined efforts of the
Royal Agricultural and Royal Horticultural Societies. It is the first time these
two bodies have been united, and we are most happy to record the fact that the
union was of the most cordial nature, and satisfactory in all its results.
The arrival of two Oriental princes, and of the Belgian volunteers, as visitors to
London, aroused the energies of horticulturists to contribute to the splendour of
their welcome. The weather declined to co-operate, for the tears of St. Swithin fell
copiously, and during the greater part of the time of the stay of our distinguished
visitors, the skies were overcast, and wind and rain spoilt many an out-door cele-
bration. Floral emb' llishments were adopted in the several splendid receptions
given to our guests, with more than our accustomed liberality, the principal work of
decorating Buckingham Palace, the Guildhall, and the Agricultural Hall, being
entrusted to Messrs. Veitch and Mr. B. S. Williams.
Since the heavy July rains, the appearance of all garden crops has greatly
improved. Turnips, potatoes, and winter greens are growing freely. On farm lands,
green crops and roots promise to be very abundant, and a good crop of hay has been
well saved. Cereals want a few weeks' sunshine, and we do not at all fear that
they will have it. The harvest will be rather later than usual, but the yield pro-
mises to be fully an average.
GATHERINGS FROM EXHIBITIONS.
R. CRANSTON'S First Prize (72 Roses at Crystal Palace).— Madame
Brianson, a splendid lar^e flower, rather flat ; Madame Moreau, Paul
Ricaut, William Jesse, Marechal Souchet, Margaret St. Amand, Madame
Victor Verdier, Souvenir dElise, Maurice Bernardin, Jean Goujon,
Fran9ois Lacharme, Madame Boll, showing a big eye ; Horace Vet net,
fine ; Comte de Nanteuil, Christian Puttner, beautifully folded, crimson purple, a
charming flower ; Thorin, a fine rose ; Louise Van Houtte, Madame Eugene Ver-
dier, Madame Pauline Villot, Alpaide de Eotalier, Duke of Wellington (to call this
a " Due " is simply to insult one of our own heroes), La Esmeralda, Napoleon III.,
Souvenir de la Malmaison, Beauty of Westerham, Centifolia Rosea, Dr. Andry,
Duchess of Orleans, Gloire de Montplaisir, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, Lord
Clyde, Gloire de Dijon, Claude Million, Madame Vidot, Charles Verdier, Duchesse
de Caylus, Pauline LHUsezeur, Madame Domage, Madame Crapelet, Madame Bravy,
Prince Camille de Rohan, Caroline de S;insal, Jules Margotiin, Baron Gonella,
King's Acre, Senateur Vaisse, Celine Forestier, Madame Charles Wood, an enormous
flower without a shadow of coarseness j Joseph Fiala, Madame Knorr, Baron de
254 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
Noirmont, Anna de Diesbach, Le Rhone, Louise de Savoie, General Jacqueminot,
Mrs. Rivers, Pierre Nottinji, Madame William, Prince Henri de Pays Bas, Clmrles
Lawson, diaries Lefebvre, jS'iphetos, Lord Macaulay, Ciiarles Margottin, Admiral
la Peyrouse, Conitesse Cecile Chabrillant, Devoniensip, Madame Hector Jacquin,
Souvenir d'uu Ami, Jolin Hopper, fine ; President, Souvenir de Charles
Montault.
Mr. Hedge's First Pkize (48 at Crystal Palace). — Coupe d'Hebe, Senateur
Vaisse, Triomplie de Rcuies, Madame Crapelet, Queen Victoria, Lord Clyde,
L'Enfant Irou- e, Olivier Delhomtne, Comtesse Chabr'Uant, Madame Victor Ver-
dier, Charles Rouillard, Marie Baumann, Louise Margottin, Cliarles Lefebvre,
Rubens, George Prince, IMart-cbal Niel, the best example of this rose in tbe show,
colour clear, rich, and ratlier deep yellow; La Ville de St. Denis, Mrs. Rivers,
Pierre Notting, Souvenir d'un Ami, Madame Charles Wood, Armida, Prince Loon,
Devoniensis, Madame Boll, Caroline de Sansal, Alphonse Damaizin, Moint, Sou-
venir de Count Cavour, Gloire de Dijon, Alfred Colomb, Souvenir d'Elize Vardon,
La Fontaine, Cloth of Gold, John Hopper, Madame Knorr, Ctiarles Margottin, bad ;
Auguste Mie, Madame de Cambaceres, Louise Darzens, Baron Gonella, Joan of
Arc, Charles Lawsou, Enfant de Lyon, Gloire de Santenay, Adam, Lord
Macaulay.
Rev. E. N. Pochix's First Prize (12 at Crystal Palace).— Charles Lefebvre,
Anna de Diesbach, Fisher Holmes, John Hopper, Madame Boll, Marechal Niel,
Xavier Olibo, Margaret St. Amand, Madame Victor Verdier, Prince Camille de
Rohan, Souvenir d'un Ami, Madame Crapelet.
ZoxALE Pelargoniums at Royal Botanic, July 8. — Mr. Ward, gardener to
F. J. Wilkins, Esq., Leyton, and Mr. Catlin, gardener to Mrs. Lermitte, Finchley,
■were equal first in the class for six with very fine plants. Mr. Ward had Madame
Boucharlet, a fine salmon ; Sobieski, intense scarlet ; Louis Roeseler, in the way
of Herald of Spring, but apparently lighter in colour, one of the finest plants in
the tent ; Rose Rendatler, superb in every respect, and the finest zonale of the
day ; Monsieur Rendatler, a splendid salmon-coloured variety ; and the Clipper, a
fine scarlet. Mr. Catlin had Smith's Excellent, Tintoret, Madame Vaucher, Mon-
sieur Rendatler, Scarlet Globe, and Monsieur Martin. As our country readers
sometimes ask about tbe London style of growing these things, we took the trouble
to measure Mr. Catlin's plant of Excellent. It measured four feet over, in a regular
low convex outline, and had 66 trusses full open, not a withered flower was visible,
and every leaf in its place. Mr. Windsor, gardener to J. R. Ravensliill, Esq.,
Waltharastow, put up a grand six, the names of which we missed. Mr. Winter,
gardener at the Elms, Golder's Green, Hendon, had a fine group in too flat a style
of training ; the varieties were Scarlet Globe, Gem of Roses, too shy for exhibition ;
Senator, Cerise Unique, a blaze of colour ; Madame Vaucher, Charles de Mas, a
green-leaved scarlet of good form and fine deep colour.
Carnatioks, Pinks, and I^icotees at Royal Botanic— The names of the
best stands of these will no doubt be welcomed by many of our readers as aff'ording
the best suggestions for the foi mation and improvement of collections. Mr. Turner,
of Slough, put up the best collection of Carnations, comprising True Blue^ a new
variety, of medium size, marked with heavy flakes of bright purplish rose, beautiful
and novel. In the same stand Lord Clifton, Dr. Foster, Lorenzo, Fanny Gardener,
Prince Albert, Merrimac, Duchess of Kent, Annihilator, Ruth Hannah, Flora's
Garland, Young Milton, Earl Stamford, Justice Shallow, Lady of the Lake, John
Xeil, Brutus, John Reet, Cradley Pet. Mr. H. Hooper, of Widcome Hill, Bath,
had Venus, Benutiful, Stone's Venus, Mayor of Nottingham, Parker's Garland,
Prince of Wales, Jefferson Davis, Gem, Duke of Cambridge, Grand Master, Oriana,
Juno, Beauty of Woodhouse, Glory, Excellent, Diana, Neptune, Fanny Gardener,
Standard, Victor, Florence Nighiingale. — Mr. Turner, of Slough, and Mr. Hooper,
of Bath, exhibited Picotees. Mr. Turner showed Mrs. May, Miss Wood, Duke of
Devonshire, Miss Sewell, Mrs. Dixon, Prince Arthur, Miss Williams, Eliza, Fore-ter,
Robin Hood, Fillis, Amazon. Mr. Turner took first place with twenty-four Finks :
the varieties were Rt^v. G. Jeans, Annette, Attraction, John Ball, Celestial, Titu?,
Marian, Device, Exhibitor, Charles Turner, Invincible, Bertram, President, Goliath,
Alma, Delicata, Aurora, Purity, Blondin. Mr. Bragg, second, with Blondm, Purple
Prince, Nonpariel, Mr. Bragg, Dr. Maclean, Hector, Device, John Ball, Ernest,
Beauty, Attraction, Rifleman, Victory, Ct-le-tial, and ten seedlings. Besides thesp,
Mr. Bragg presented Nonpariel, broad laced purplish rose, scarcely rich enough Icr
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
:^o£>
its class. From Mr. Shenton, BiVnrleswade, Primrose Queen, large primrose white
showing much green at the base ; bad. Leviathan, large, liirlit rose lacino-*
blackish crimson at base of petals ; this appears to be a good pink, but when we
saw it it was falling to pieces, probably in consequence of the heat of the weather
and the draughty place it was in. Sultan, small, very heavy lacing of maroon
crimson ; fine. EtJwl. lightly edged rose, heavy maroon crimson base. Mr. Pizzey
gardener to Mrs. E. Fulmer, of Slough, took the small silver medal for a beautiful
dozen ; they were Rev. G. Jeans, Blondin, John Ball, Attraction, Marion, Scarlet
Gem. Device, President, Ernest, Bertram, Delicata, Cristabel.
Paxsies at Royal Botaxic. — Messrs, Downie, Laird, and Laing, of Frederick
Street, Edinburgh, and Stanstead Park, Forest Hill, took the first place in the class
for tliirty-six ; the varieties were Kinleith, Attraction, Prince of Prussia, La Defi
Mary Lamb, J. B. Downie, Rev. H. Dombrain, Invincible, Blink Bonny, Isa Craio-'
Ladyburn Beauty, Chancellor, Lavinia, Arab, Cherub, Princess of Wa es. Lord
Clyde, Jessie Laird, Francis Low, Countess of Rosslyn, Perfection, Miss Williamson
Novgorod, Czar, Peeress, Eclat, Cupid, C. W. R. Ramsay, Dux, Lady Lucy Dundas^
George Wilson, Miss Hopkins, Gem, Village Maid, General Lee. Mr. Hooper of
Bath, second, with Attraction, Baroness, George Catley, a fine small dark self •
Sunset, Laly E. Studley, Sir Launcelot, Ajax, Mr. T. Moore, Harry, New Colour
a self, curious rosy purple, with shade of puce, very beautiful ; Randolph, Lord of
the Manor, Mrs. Glad>tone, Flower of Spring, Alexander the Great, Miss William-
son, Novelty, Snowball, Queen of Beauties, Princess Helena, a benutiful white
ground flower ; John Gray, Princess of Wales, Purple Perfection, Francis Low,
Narcissus, Cream of the Creams, Countess of Rosslyn. Mr. Bragg put up a good
thirty-six. and Mr. Adair, of Aliceville, Edinburgh, presented a pretty tw^eiitv-four
comprising Attraction, Miss Hill, Ladyburn Beauty, Invincible, Chancellor, Mrs. J.
White, J. B. Downie, Arab, Princess of Wales, Cherub, Lavinia, Francis Low'
Cupid, Miss Ramsay, George Wilson, Lady L, Dundas, Perfection, Eclat, Alice
Downie, General Lee, Countess of Rosslyn, Miss Muir, Czar, Jessie Laird. From
Mr. Hooper, of Bath, a new bedding pansy, called Sunset, medium size, bright o-old
yellow, wuth small dark central spot. Fawcy Paxsies were contributed by'^Messrs.
Downie, Laird, and Laing, the varieties being Maccaroni, Oriana, Black Prince
Mrs R. Dean, ]Mrs. H. Northcote, Wm. Moffat, Ninian Neven, Amy, Eola, Prince
Napoleon, Magnificent, Indigo, H. W. Adair, Mrs. T. Scott, Striped Queen, Punch,
Harlequin, Princess Alice, Figaro, Noemi Demay, Colleen Bawn, Jeanette, Pacha,
Prince of Wales. Princess Matilda, Caffra, Earl of Rosslyn, Mrs. Montgomery,
John McNnb. Belle Lelleoise, Emblem.
Messrs. Paul axd Sox's First Prize, 18 Tea, Noisette, axd Chixa Roses
AT BiRMixGHAM.— Souvenir d'un Ami, Jaune d'Or, Madame Damaizin, Alba Rosea,
Gloire de Dijon, Madame Maurin, Comte de Paris, Triomphe de Reunes, Caroline,'
Souvenir d'Elise, Devoniensis, Vicomtesse de Cazos, Madame Willermoz, Amabilis',
Madame Falcot, Homere, Niphetos, Rubens. It will be observed that there were no
Ch nas of the Bengal class in this lot at all, and only one true Noisette, and that
was Triomphe de Rennes.
Messrs. Paul and Son's 12 Summer Roses at Birmingham. — La Seduisante
(Alba), a flat-faced but pretty rose, the colours a mixture of pink and flesh, with
tinges of salmon ; Dr. Dieltheim (Gallica), rose shaded with purple ; Blanchefleur
(Hybrid Provence); D'Aguesseau (GaUica), rich crimson, large and showy;
Unique (Provence), usually white, but in this case prettily barred, striped, and
blotched with pink ; Transon Goubault (Gallica), deep but lively crimson, good
form; Midume Scetmans (Damask), creamy white shaded buflf; Columella (Gal-
lica) ; Paul Ricaut (Hybrid Bourbon), rosy crimson, good form, one of the few of
the summer roses that still keeps a first-rate place in competitions ; (Eillet Parfait
(Gallica), white, with stripes of crimson, good; Louis Philippe (Gallica), dark, a
fine rose j Boigavis (Hybrid Provence).
256
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Waltoxiax Case. — Amateur. — Yes, we still recommend it, if it can be got ;
but we know nothing of the maker's whereabouts witli certainty j the last we heard
of him he was at Bournemouth.
Vine Leaves from Norfolk. — E. W. A. Gf.— The finely-divided leaves sent
from an old vine bearing white fruit is a vai'iety known in the old catalogues as
Ciotat, and under this name described by Speechly (No. 45). It is the Raisin
d^Autriche of Duhamel (No. 5 t. 2) and tlie Parsley-leaved Vine of Horticultural
Society's Catalogue, No. 39. The berries are round, white, medium-sized, thin skin ;
flesh juicy, sweet, but not highly flavoured. It is worth a place under glass to
train up a wall or pillar, as it then produces better fruit, and the finely-divided
leaves are highly ornamental. It is almost out of cultivation, and amongst any
hundred of our best grape growers we should scarcely find one who knows anything
of it.
Elymus GLArcESCExs.— C W. B. — This beautiful grass shows to best advantage
on a ledge of a rockery four or five feet above the ground line. It will grow in any
soil, but sand is its native element. It makes a fine pot plant. We have some
specimens in ten-inch pots, which with potted deodars, etc., etc., make a fine figure
on the lawn.
Garden- Walks. — I have the management of some garden walks which are
made of small pebble gravel about the size of cob-nuts, larger and smaller. They
have been made about five years, and I cannot get them to set, having tried putting
sand on and rolling, without success. The walks are round a grass plot, and in wet
weather the pebbles tread on to the grass, which in addition to making the garden
look very untidy, and being loose to walk on, it makes sad havoc with the mowing
machine, straining it all to pieces so badly, that one that has only been in use a
little mox-e than a year has now gone to Leeds for repairs. Finding myself in this
predicament, I ask for your valuable advice in the matter, as, since I have sub-
scribed to the Floral World, I have read it with profit, and venture for once to
ask a favour through its pages.- F. E. S. [We do not happen to know how our
correspondent, who dates from Chesterfield, is situated in regard to obtaining mate-
rials for the improvement of this walk, but we can give him directions for a certain
cure if he can obtain Portland or Roman cement at a reasonable price. The first
of these two materials is to be preferred because of the brightness of appearance
the walk will have when the work is done. When the weather is quite dry the
walk should be broken up to the depth of one foot, and the whole of the stufi'
should be screened, as builders screen lime core, unless it consists of the same kind of
pebbles to the depth of a foot, in which case screening is not needful. When
broken up, and as dry as it can be got in hot weather, lay down a bushel of
Portland cement to every square yard, quickly mix gravel and cement thoroughly,
and rake the walk to a neat and very gentle convex surface. Water it and roll it,
and it will very soon become a pavement. The work should be done a piece at a
time, so as to finish it off" quickly without exposing the cement to the air longer
than can be avoided. If expense is a serious matter, break the walk only six inches
deep, and use half a bushel of cement to the square yard.]
Variegated Leaves. — S. B. — As a rule, poor soil should be used in the cul-
tivation of plants with variegated leaves. We have before us an interesting example
in the variegated willow-herb, the potted and half-starved plants of which are so
superior in variegation to plants of the same species growing in good soil, that no
non-professional critic would judge them to be the same. The common variegated
Aucuba will produce richly variegated leaves in a rich soil in the full sun, but with
poor soil and shade it makes leaves which are almost wholly green. With plants
that have wliite or creamy variegation, poor soil is almost always requisite.
Viola cornuta. — Vindex. — Some of the wise people have confounded V. cor-
nuta with V. calcarata. If you have cornuta true you may well be content, for it is
charming.
THE FLORAL WORLD
GAEDEN GUIDE.
SEPTEMBER, 1867.
PAILUEES m SMALL GARDENS.
0 direct attention to failures, and the causes of failures,
in the management of small gardens, may be of some
service to many of our readers. We are not at all in
the spirit of fault-finding, and, when needful, will defend
the English gardens, large and small, from any possible
detractors. But in travelling about in all parts of the country,
seeing gardens everywhere, large and small, conversing with all
classes of cultivators, many things come under our notice that are
less perfect than they might be, though their possessors are not
always aware of their imperfections. Perhaps in some things we are
disposed to be hypercritical. AVhen the mind is intently occupied
with one class of observations — when it runs in a groove, so to
speak, it is apt to attach undue importance to trifles, and to descend
to hair-splitting, instead of ascending to nobler work. Should such
appear to be the case with the writer of this, free forgiveness is
asked of our readers generally, more especially if any remarks which
follow seem to be directed against any particular person or place ;
for it may as well be said at once, that the ideas which now occur to
us have no personal or local connection whatever, so there can be no
proper reason for any one to be hurt.
Failure as to general effect is a common occurrence. IJsually
this is the consequence of attempting more than is fairly possible in
the space at command. It is scarcely possible to construct a garden
which shall give an air of comfort, dignity, and cheerfulness to the
dwelling, unless there is in the foreground some breadth of open
space with grass turf, with trees beyond and about it, in such plenty
as shall enrich the scene with their fine forms and shadows, without
contracting or confusing it. The universal and commendable love
of flowers tends, in a great measure, to restrict the adoption, in
small gardens, of features of abiding interest ; where there might be
a beautiful free-breathing carpet of grass, distinctly dotted with a
few elegant coniferous trees, and a few clumps beyond, to give a
true gardenesque tone to the scene, we have, perhaps, an inordi-
nate complexity of flower-beds, so numerous and so close together,
VOL. II. — NO. IX. 17
258 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
that their forms confuse the eye, and their colours mingle in a
manner that makes an end of harmony and contrast together. The
bedding system, or, more properly, the promenade system, has ruined
thousands of gardens, while greatly increasing the cost and anxiety
of keeping tliem for a bizarre display of colour. Yet the possessors
of each spoilt garden experience a strange kind of joy — a sense of
freedom and the possibility of rest, when ushered into a green
garden, designed with taste, and kept with care. It is astonishing
how vast appears a limited space set out in turf and trees, if
judiciously accomplished ; and how much pleasure accompanies the
sense of being set at liberty, with room for several to walk and talk
together, without having to defile singly through narrow ways, or
raise the question inwardly who shall take the lead along the narrow
path.
Turf and trees are the cheapest, most lasting, and most perma-
nently and manageably enjoyable of all the essential elements of an
elegant garden, and should have the first thought, whether in making
or improving one. That we do not proscribe flowers, none of
our readers need be informed ; all we contend for is, that, as a rule,
they should be subservient to the general scheme, just as coloured
decorations within the house are. Window curtains we must have,
but we do not cover our walls, pictures, and looking-glasses with
them ; and flowers we must have, but in their proper proportion to
all the rest of the essentials of a garden. In the foreground of a
lawn, a few bold flower-beds are usually appropriate and desirable,
and, if well furnished, enhance the brightness of the turf, warm up
the lovely shadows of the trees, and actually increase the apparent
space set apart for pleasure. But when beds are dotted everywhere,
when a scheme of a geometric kind is obtruded of far too great an
extent for the place, the boundaries contract upon it, the sense
of freedom is gone, quiet appears to be banished from the scene, for
colours are exciting — sometimes distracting, and quite antagonistic
to the enjoyment of quiet and rest.
It has always been a conviction of ours that from every dwelling-
house situate within its own grounds, one set of windows should
look upon greenness, and that this view should extend over as great
a space as possible, consistent with the dimensions of the property.
In the case of houses built in blocks, on the skirts of roads, it is im-
possible to do this; but where the house is in the midst of the
enclosure, it can usually be done. Even in the case of a terrace,
where flowers are always appropriate, a few clumps, judiciously
placed, always produce a better eftect than a comjjlication. It is in
the public garden, where people pay to be astonished, that exube-
rance of colour is most appropriate ; but few amongst the thousands
that find delight in highly-decorated promenade-gardens, would care
to look upon such scenes constantly ; to have, as it were, a grand
bedding display for breakfast, dinner, and supper ; for times of
merriment and times of sadness alike ; for times of activity and times
of rest. No : greenness should form the foundation of the scheme, and
the flowers should be sufficient only to light it up, and mark out
points of distances, and give warmth and relief to quieter colours.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 259
Should the " plunging system " ever come to be generally adopted,
we shall see thus much of the space now appropriated to flowers con-
tracted, and the display will be more brilliant, more constant, and
more various than now. There will be fewer beds, but they will
never be bare ; and there will be change on change the whole year
round, in place of the intermittent colouring which the rage for bed-
ding has so much increased.
Another failure common to small gardens, is the want of features
of special interest. In great gardens we find bits of old castles or
monasteries, noble rockeries, fountains, patriarchal trees, heronries,
and other objects that aflbrd entertainment for the mind ; but small
gardens do not often present us with things that we can contem-
plate again and again without weariness. A rockery is especially
valuable, for this reason — that it never satiates as an excess of
flowers do. Glass, much or little, according to means and space,
repays its cost again and again, if, in any degree, put to a good
purpose. If there is but one good Hamburgh vine in a glass
verandah or little lean-to, it is a source of never-flagging pleasure.
We see its buds swell in spring ; we watch for the blossoms ; in due
time we see the little berries, and all the summer long the shadow of
the rich leafage is delightful ; and, at last, the jet-black fruit adorns
the table, and we eat the wages of our care and watching. It matters
not what purpose glass is appropriated to, whether to mere bedding-
plants, or for orchard-house fruits, or for a mixed collection of flower
plants ; glass, more or less, is always wanted in a garden, to afl'ord a
feature of special interest. So, again, in the disposition of trees,
flower-beds, and borders, interesting features may be secured. We
could now point to a small garden where the approach is rich with
evergreens and flowers. Beyond the house, on the other side, a
great raised circle, planted with rhododendrons, and these edged
with cotoneasters, deutzias, and a ring of ivy to finish ofl"; beyond
that, grass turf and trees ; and the only flowers to be seen are in
rustic baskets ; further on, a rockery, making a complete break, and
interrupting the view further down ; and beyond the rockery, two
compartments of roses, and beyond these, plant-houses ; and in this
garden, which is within the hearing of Bow bells, London, are not
only many distinct features, but individual objects of interest sufli-
cient to occupy any one mind for a lifetime.
We are not proposing plans and schemes, and, therefore,
neither advocate orchard-houses, rockeries, nor rhododendron-beds,
nor anything at all in particular ; but we merely direct attention to
the necessity of attractive and interesting objects in a garden, that
its possessors, and their friends, may find in it an unfailing source of
entertainment, with, perhaps, a very large amount of valuable
instruction.
Yet one more point. A common failing in small gardens (and,
indeed, in large ones too) is, that many things, easy to do, are badly
done. Take for example roses. How often do we see starving
standards disfiguring what would be, without them, a nice lawn.
They are, perhaps, planted in the turf, and cannot thrive because the
soil around their roots is as hard as a pavement, and by reason of
260 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
the thick sward, impervious alike to air and water. Or they may be
in paltry pincushion beds, the space of open soil they require being
occupied with vigorous habited bedding-plants. We do occasionally
see standard roses looking so well in pincushion beds on lawns, that
we dare not condemn them in toto ; but often enough thej- disfigure
rather than adorn the place ; and stands generally, about approaches
and near the windows, are out of taste, because of their inevitably
ungraceful appearance at all times, except when in flower. "Where
the amateur is stubborn about standards in pincushion beds, yet
anxious to try his hand at improving them, the following plan
might answer: — For every standard, make a circle, three feet in
diameter, and have trees of four to five feet high if possible. Dig
these circles two spades deep, witb an abundance of manure. This
will be the first start towards a vigorous growth. Plant them as
shallow as possible, sufficient only to cover their roots, and clasp
the collar — that is, so much of the stem, just above the roots, as was
in the soil before, or less than before, if possible. After planting,
which we suppose to be done in October or November, spread over
the beds a few inches of half-rotten manure, to protect the roots
from frost ; secure the roses with iron rods for stakes, and then
throw down six inches depth of cocoa-nut fibre, and make a pretty
bed by plunging in the fibre potted evergreens, A wooden or wire
edging, to enclose this, would give a neat finish, and there would be
inaugurated the first step in combining standard roses with the
plunging system. In the spring, the evergreens can be removed,
and potted bulbs, in flower, take their place ; next change yellow
alyssum and perennial candytuft ; next change anything you please,
for you will have all the summer flowers to choose from. Suppose
in front of a suite of windows, looking on a lawn, half a dozen such
beds, at six or eight (or more) yards apart ; would they not, in very
many cases, far surpass, in beauty and interest, the existing schemes
■of floral embellishment ? In the course of a year the roots of the
roses would push up amongst the fibre, and it would be well to lift
them, prune the roots moderately, and re-plant. This may appear
to make much labour for a little display ; but the fact is, standard
roses ought to be lifted every year, wherever they are. If this
were done, there would be no suckers, because the buds and pushing
suckers would be pruned from ofl' the roots ; there would be no
deaths in winter ; there would be finer flowers.
Many other things besides roses are badly done in small gardens ;
but we must not aim at making a catalogue of grievances. Perhaps
these few remarks may explain the whole of our meaning to some of
our readers. At all events, our hope is that they may be useful to
many.
S. H.
161
THE VILLA KITCHEN-GARDEN.— Xo. IIL
BY J. C. CLARKE,
Head Gardener at Cothelston House, near Taunton.
OIJBLE CEOPPING-.— With judgment and foresight
brought to bear upon the routine work, much may be
done towards making a garden pleasant and profitable.
But while advocating a thorough system of double
cropping where space is limited, there are two things in
connection with it which I must not forget, or the reader may fall
into an error.
In the first place it will be remembered that I have already stated
that a small garden well and judiciously cropped and liberally
manured, will produce results equal to one a size larger indifl'erently
cultivated. Now I fear that unless I explain this, some inexperienced
readers may seize upon it as an argument in favour of a small
garden over a large one, if only, as they think, to reduce the labour
power. But this would be a mistake, as a moment's consideration
will show. Granting that it is possible by good culture to get the
same amount of produce from half an acre as a neighbour does ofl" an
acre cultivated in a slovenly manner, the reader must remember, the
half acre would be cropped over twice in a year, while the larger
one would only be cropped once ; consequently the ground would
not only be twice dug over to the other's once, but all the other
attentions necessary for the welfare of the crops have to be repeated
in the same way. So that as to the point of labour nothing is
gained by preferring a small garden to a large one.
The other consideration is one that all should understand. It is
that according to the amount of produce expected there should be a
corresponding liberality in providing manure and other substances
necessary for the maintaining of the land in a highly fertile con-
dition, without which the system of double cropping, when carried
out systematically will never pay ; for if the staple is not constantly
enriched by repeated applications of manure, fresh soil, etc., it will,
by constant cropping, become exhausted of the elements that are
necessary for the production of a healthy, active growth.
The summer crops which are first off* the ground are peas, early
cauliflowers, and potatoes. I have already described the mode of
planting potatoes and peas together, and alluded to the fact that
they come off at one time ; or rather, all the first sowings of peas on
the main square can be taken away in suflicient time to secure a
good breadth of ground for winter subjects, such as broccolis, late
Brussels sprouts, and all kinds of winter stuff"; not forgetting to
plant large numbers of the Rosette colewort cabbage, between the
late crops of peas. The potatoes of course will be taken up, and
then between each two rows of peas two rows of celery may be
planted. The first crop of cauliflower between the asparagus beds
being over, their place may be filled up with the coleworts.
In the borders (see Diagraoi in page 201.) the earliest peas may
262 THE FLOEAL WOKLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
be followed with turnips, and the lettuce ground with successional
crops of French beans. Besides these, tliere will be several vacant
spots occurring from time to time, which should be filled up with
autumn cauliflower and the very useful Walcheren broccoli, and
with various kinds of saladings and turnips. A late crop of French
beans on a south border should also be thought of. These vacant
spots on the borders are especially useful on which to prick out
celery, and for the occasional sowings of small seeds, such as the
Walcheren broccoli, autumn cabbage, and cauliflower, as well as for
the diff'erent sowings of radishes.
In the main square the second supply of cauliflower will give a
piece of ground for late rows of celery, as will also the first crop
of broad beans and turnips, make way for further breadths of winter
stuff", including the sproutiug broccoli, Scotch kale, and the cottager's
kale, and some of the latest spring broccolis ; and as the potatoes
come away, the ground must be immediately occupied, either with
a bed of winter spinach, or more of the Walcheren broccoli sown in
the first week in May especially for the purpose. Grub up the
spring cabbages as soon as they are all cut, dig into the ground a
good dressing of fresh lime, and let it lay for a fortnight, if you
cannot vary the crop. Plant at one foot apart each way the
colewort cabbage ; these will j^roduce double the amount of greens
from the same space than will the old stems of the previous plants.
Space between Crops. — A mistake often committed by many
is the fact that they do not give room enough for the individual
plants of any crop to develop themselves, and to show their true
character. This is done under the mistaken notion that thereby
they increase the bulk, but it is an erroneous practice. The amateur
cultivators at least must not share in our censure of this practice,
because they have not had the experience to aid them in a right
understanding of the subject ; nor is the single-handed gardener
to be severely blamed, although only a moderate amount of obser-
vation ought to have convinced him of his error ; but those who
profess to advise the reading public in such matters are the parties
most deserving of censure : for when we see the advice that peas
should be sown at three feet apart, as I have done in horticultural
publications, I feel that such men and their writings would have
been better if they had never been known — for when advice is so
given and accepted upon the strength of the respectability of the
paper it appears in, we know the result will be a disappointment to
the one and a discredit to the other. To rectify this erroneous
practice, I shall here give the proper distances between the prin-
cipal crops of the garden, that ought to be carried out, because
if any crop has not proper room for the development of all its
parts, how can it show its true character, or attain that degree of
productiveness which ought to be the main object of the cultivator
to secure ? About half of the peas and potatoes grown in private
gardens in this country are completely starved for the want of air
to circulate between them ; and in the case of peas sown at four and
five feet apart (the tall ones I mean) half of the ground and labour
is lost.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 263
Distances of Rotatiois' Cbops. — Peas ten feet apart between
the rows ; scarlet runners ten feet ; dwarf beans six feet between the
rows, nine inches between the plants ; broad beans the same ; cauli-
flowers and all the winter broccoli s two feet six inches each way ;
and this distance should be given to Brussels sprouts, savoys, and
all the kales and spring cabbages. The AYalcheren broccoli and th^
Stadtholder cauliflower will succeed with two feet each way. Onions,
carrots, and parsnips, should be sown in rows, fifteen inches apart ;
beetroot three feet wide, fifteen inches between the plants. All the
early potatoes, with small haulm, should be two feet between the
rows and one foot between the plants. For the late crops, amongst
which are many strong growers, two feet six inches between the
rows is the least distance allowable, three feet would be better,
and some sorts require four feet. Turnips should be in rows two
feet apart and fifteen inches between the plants. Summer lettuce
sown in drills three feet apart, two feet between the plants. Winter
lettuce may be reduced to half this distance, as they are generally
consumed when very young. Celery trenches should be five feet
from centre to centre of row, the plants twelve inches apart, I
have only named the principal crops, but sufficient is said to show
how important it is to observe a strict adherence to the rules here
given. I shall now proceed to give the distances of the principal
permanent crops.
Distances of Permanent Crops. — Asparagus beds should be
five feet wide for four rows in a bed at twelve inches apart, and a
two feet alley between each two beds. Ehubarb should be four feet
each way, at least ; and sea-kale forced on the ground in clumps of
three crowns in each, at three feet each way ; strawberries at two
feet between the plants, and two feet six inches in the rows. Easp-
berries should be grown in lines six feet apart, eighteen inches from
plant to plant, with two canes from a plant. Gooseberries and
currants six feet every way.
Distances of Heebs. — Parsley to be sown in rows eighteen
inches apart. The plants to be thinned out to six inches apart.
Sage, tarragon, hyssop, fennel, and other tall-growing herbs, at a
distance of two feet apart from plant to plant ; while thyme, winter
savoy, and sweet marjoram will require twelve inches between the
plants.
Distances of Fruit-Teees. — The distance of wall-trees may
range from ten to sixteen feet apart. I prefer the latter distance
best for all the walls. But in the case of the south wall 1 would
place between each two trees a rider or standard to fill up the top
of the wall, until the permanent trees required the room. The
standards should then be removed. This plan can only be adopted
with peaches, nectarines, and apricots. It is not applicable to either
plums, pears, or cherries, unless the wall is unusually high. Pyramid
trees of all kinds ten feet, but if numbers are required, and the trees
kept dwarf, this distance may be reduced to eight feet.
264
SEPTEIMBEE WOEK IN THE ELOWEE-GAEDEN.
[O make the most of 'wliat little earth-heat and sun-heat
we shall have now that the summer is declining, the
amateur should propagate whatever he is likely to need
stock of next year of roses, geraniums, fuchsias, and
other subjects that require a long period of growth
before they flower. Those who have manetti rose stocks should lose
no time in getting them budded as close to the ground as possible, by
first removing the soil from the side of the row, so as to give more
room for the operation, which is to be performed in precisely the
same way as described in our recent paper on budding the brier. As
during winter, pits, frames, and houses are generally overcrowded,
propagate nothing of questionable merit. Look over the geraniums
and fuchsias, and determine which best suit your purpose and your
taste, and secure a few of those first. In making cuttings, take
short lengths of growing wood ; three or four joints will suffice in
any case, and make better plants than large cuttings ; remove only
so many leaves from the base of the cutting as will allow of it being
fixed firmly where it is to make its first roots. Fuchsias do best
when the cuttings are very small, and from the points of growing
shoots, each cutting taken at a joint, the two lowest leaves removed,
the cuttings dibbled into sand, then sprinkled with water and covered
with a bell-glass, and put in a frame or greenhouse, and kept shady
till they root. A quick method is to smear the outside of the bell-
glass with a mixture of clay and water, which will give shade
enough, and the pans can then be placed in the sun, or where the
sun will shine on them for an hour or two if needful. All they
really need is ^0 he loo'ked at everyday; the cultivator's eye has a
power in it, and without that charm they can come to no good. All
the scarlet geraniums make stout plants if short cuttings are put in
the open border in the full sun during July and August ; but at this
late period of the season where but a few dozen are wanted, it is as
well to prepare thumb pots by filling the pots one-third with small
crocks, and the remainder any clean loam and sand, about equal
quantities of each, well mixed together. Eill the pots, water them
so as to soak the soil thoroughly, and then proceed to prepare the-
cuttings. If the plants are in beds, cuttings may be taken of side-
shoots, so as not to spoil their appearance; and it matters not
whether they are of hard ripe wood or young shoots that have not
yet flowered; either will root quickly, and if well managed be quite
strong before the winter. Eemove only one or two of the lowest
leaves and their footstalks, so as to have at least an inch of clear stem
at the bottom. Eix these firmly, one in each pot; sprinkle them so-
as to wet the leaves, and place them on a back shelf in a sunny
greenhouse, or, in the absence of such accommodation, in any hot
sunny place you have, as under a south wall on a bed of coal-ashes,
or in a sunny window. "When they have filled their pots with roots,
shift them into what are called 60-sized pots, and in those pots let
them pass the winter. The most useful varieties to propagate for
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 265
bedding are Stella, Cybister, Kate Anderson, "White Perfection,
H. W. Longfellow, Lucius, and Duchess of Sutherland. Of fuchsias
make sure of Bo Peep, Sir Colin Campbell, Yenus de Medici,
Excellent, Duchess of Lancaster, Clio, and Ploribunda ; and if you
contemplate using fuchsias as bedders secure Alpha and Count de
Boileau, the two best to weather the chances out of doors, whether
the season be good or bad. In a good season all the free-growing
fuchsias, double ones included, do wtII in beds ; Grazania splendens
will always be a favourite for rockeries, baskets, and roots in sunny
positions. Kow is the time to put in cuttings, as they can be got
without spoiling the appearance of the blooming plants. Fill pots
or boxes with any poor sandy stuif, with plenty of drainage ; make
the cuttings of growing shoots in preference to old woody stems,
and dibble them in about an inch apart all over, and in those pots or
boxes let them remain until they begin to grow in spring, when they
must be potted singly. Among seedling lobelias will always be
found a few better than the rest, and worth keeping on from cuttings.
If these are allowed to bloom themselves out, and are then potted
just at the commencement of winter, they will probably be lost.
Lift a chosen plant now, and spread the growth of its neighbours
right and left to fill the place ; clip off the blooming stems, and pot
the plant in a five or six-inch pot, in a mixture of turfy loam one
half, and the other half rotten dung, leaf-mould, and silver sand.
AVhen watered, shut it up in a frame for a week, then put it out of
doors, and let it grow as it likes till the end of the season, when
house it, and in spring force it into growth for cuttings. Half-a-
dozen plants treated in this way will supply cuttings next season for
a garden of almost any dimensions, but if taken up at the end of
the season they rarely live through the winter. Treat petunias and
verbenas in the same way, or as these strike now, and have plenty
of time to grow before winter, secure cuttings of the kinds most in re-
quest, treat them the same as recommended for fuchsias, or if you have
a gentle bottom-heat, place them on it, and their progress will be safer.
These may be got into 48-sized pots before winter, so as to be strong
and serviceable to furnish cuttings next spring ; whereas, when old
plants are taken up in October or IS'ovember, there is a great pro-
bability that many will die in the Pebruary following. It may be
worth something to amateur readers to know that seed of lobelias
can be saved by simply cutting ofi" the tops and laying them, to dry
on a cloth in a sunny place well sheltered from wind. The seed will
fall out in the form of fine dust, and every pinch large enough to
cover a shilling will be worth a shilling, and produce its three or
four hundred plants. If these plans are considered troublesome,
there is yet another way of making sure of store plants to propagate
from. At the end of September, take up two each of all the varieties
of verbena, petunia, tropseolura, and other soft-stemmed trailing
bedders, lift them with as little damage as possible to the roots, put
them in five-inch pots, and place them in a west aspect, with very
little water at the root, but a sprinkle overhead every morning. Do
not cut them back, but let them flower as they please till there are
signs of frost, then trim them in moderately, tie their long stems to
266 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
sticks, and house them. By being potted while thej have a full
month to recover, they will go through the winter well, and furnish
shoots to propagate from in spring.
CULTIYATIOK OF THE YAEIEQATED CYPERUS
ALTERNIFOLIUS.
BY EANSLEY TANTOK, T.E.H.S., 2fTJESEEYMAN, EPSOM, SUEEET.
EW plants of modern introduction really deserve more
attention than the Cyjperus alternifolius. Its graceful
beauty justly gives it claim to be considered one of the
most conspicuous of fine-foliage plants, and yet we
seldom see it either grown as a fine specimen or
luxuriating with that degree of vigour which is essential to the
development of its peculiarly high and characteristic elegance. An
unhappy stunted form of growth, with almost every alternate leaf
diverging^ from the true character, is the general aspect of plants
one is accustomed to see, both at exhibitions and in private gardens ;
and in the hands of manipulators, too, whose other performances
would lead us to expect better results.
There are two reasons to account for this failure : in the one
case a better knowledge is required of the peculiar requirements
and habits of this charming exotic sedge ; in the other the variety
is at fault. As in the case of many other forms of beautiful plants,
there have been distributed of this two distinct varieties. One is
the true plant as imported, and increased by division ; the other,
speaking of the aggregate as one, consists of seedlings which have
been raised from the true variety. Young plants, propagated from
the former by division, always retain their character, which is
typical of tall, slender, vittately- marked footstalks, surmounted with
a whorl of leaves about half-an-inch broad and upwards of a foot in
length, and bearing the same character as the stems. The regular
alternate lines of pure white and green, together with the pendulous
habit of the whorl of leaves, give a well-handled plant a most
refined and imposing aspect. (Seedlings seldom, if ever, acquire
this beauty ; their habit is dwarfed, the leaves generally push up
green, are shorter, with the markings inconstant and indefinite, and
withal are plants of no beauty in comparison wdth the true variety.
I find propagation by division of the root can be done at any
season of the year, and if your plants are rooted by the month of
March they will make nice plants, bearing from four to six good
leaves by the following autumn. In potting, the several materials
should be well prepared and incorporated — namely, fibrous peat,
leaf-mould one year old, very old brick mortar, wood charcoal
reduced to powder, potsherds broken very fine, and very sharp
silver sand, in about equal proportions. The pot must be well
drained, and a layer of cut sphagnum laid upon the drainage, upon
which place the ball of the plant, carefully packing the material
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GMJIDE. 267
round, and pressing the mass gently to render all firm. The plant
should then be put into a cool division of the stove, where plenty
of direct light is secured. This is necessary to prevent a too great
accumulation of chlorophyl — that is to say, a tendency to too great
an accumulation of green in the leaves. This plant is semi-aquatic,
and, with free and unimpeded drainage, delights in moisture. I find
large pans filled with pebbles and water to the rim, in which the
plant should be placed, most beneficial. The moisture imbibed by
those roots ramifying amongst the drainage, and the slow and con-
stant evaporation of moisture immediately around and beneath the
leaves has the eftect of increasing the vigour, and thus enhancing
the beauty of the plant. It likewise acts as an antidote to all kinds
of insects. A moist genial atmosphere must be secured by the
free use of the sjringe throughout the summer, and until the
month of October, when atmospheric moisture must be partially
withheld, and the plant taken off the moist pebbly pan, and kept
drier throughout the winter or resting season. It is when in this
condition that the plant really should be propagated. The ripe
side eyes, if judiciously taken off, will readily root. Erom the
specimen in my possession, and which has received high honours
from the Royal Horticultural Society and other metropolitan exhi-
bitions, I have this season secured upwards of two hundred fine
young plants, all possessing those charming attributes of character
of which my specimen is characteristic.
THE PHLOX.
BY KAEL PKO SP E R.
NOBLE plant is the Phlox, and worthy of our best
attention. It is a flower of summer's maturity, strong,
and fresh, and vigorous, richly tinted as becomes the
blossoms of July, with none of those doubts asso-
ciated with it that often are with the flowers of spring,
which generally push forth under difficulties, and are frequently cut
off ere their beauties are seen. It is everybody's flower, because it
will grow almost anywhere ; and it is at the same time an ornament
of the first order for the most extensive gardens in the land-
Coming in before the gladiolus, it may be made a 'grand use of for
the garden of plants in the open air. It may be used into the bed-
iug sy.stem, in the mixed border; or, in a word, in any place where
hardy plants are grown. The Phlox, therefore, is a flower that
everybody must grow, and, we hope, enjoy. It is of easy culture,
and very hardy. In some soils Phloxes spread out into great tufts,
and preserve their perfect health for years ; but, about London
generally, a system of annual propagation and planting must be kept
up, where it is desired to make the most of tliis fine flower. Thus,
the great growers and raisers of Phloxes generally put a few plants
in a frame in mid-winter — say January or February — and as soon
268 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.
as these push a little, they take cuttings of them in the ordinary-
way, and hardening them off with the bedding-plants, put them out
in May. If there be any cheap turf-pits in the place, they may be
brought forward excellently in such. It should be observed that
this method is quite unnecessary for the mere propagation of the
Phlox, which is multiplied as fast as could be desired by dividing
the roots ; but it is the best way to get strong and independent
young plants ; those entirely started on their own basis, and with
young roots, being better, stronger, and fresher than bits of the old
roots. But it should be observed, that if in breaking the old roots
up, the young part of the root only be retained, or, in other words,
the part with the young fibres adhering to it, it will prove more
vigorous ; and this applies to nearly all herbaceous plants. It is
just like potting the suckers of cinerarias. Suppose you put a piece
of the old root with one of them, by way of encouragement, or even
the old root itself, what good will it do ? Probably remain a
miserable object all its life ; while a young sucker, taken off with a
few young white fibres pushing out from its base or button, grows
as heartily as a flat Dutch cabbage. As for the soil for the Phlox,
we need not be very particular. It likes it rich, it likes it free, and
it likes, as most plants do, a good open position. Some people have
a weakness for putting things of this kind in the shade, or shelter of
all sorts of things ; but, depend upon it, that there is nothing like
the full, free sun in our variable climate. The owner of a collection
of Phloxes, or one who takes much interest in the family, will do
better to have his well-named and best varieties planted together in
a favourable spot, even if he use many kinds largely, for the general
ornament of his garden, while people in general had better think
how it may be best employed to lend beauty and interest to
the garden. Por all border-work it is fine, and also for forming
grand mixed beds of such things as are the better for annual re-
moving, like the Delphiniums, some of the best Achilleas, etc. ; among
which could be sprinkled Gladioli in profusion. A splendid use to
make of them would be to associate them with Gladioli, or, in
other words, plant the bulbs of that fine plant in the spaces between
the Phloxes in a bed. This would be a capital system in places
where autumnal decoration is the chief desideratum, and there are
very many such. As for the selection, it is a comparatively unim-
portant matter, because all the kinds are good and beautiful, though
it is nevertheless necessary to name the best and most distinct, with
the most recent 'improvements, at the end of the paper.
The Phlox is generally best in the second year of its existence,
and as it then pushes up more shoots than it is desirable to retain,
if we wish for a good and strong bloom, it must be thinned out to —
say five or six stems — using thinnings as cuttings, if it be desired to
much increase the variety. When the Phlox is at first planted
out from the cutting, or young plant state, it had better be planted
pretty close ; but the second year they will be the better of standing
about two feet apart, and had better be taken up, and placed at that
distance apart, at any convenient time in winter or spring. Once
past their second year of flowering, they are frequently thrown
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND aARDEN GTJIDE. 269
away by growers, who treat tbe plant as a florists' flower; but, of
course, those who desire to use them for embellishing the margins
of shrubbery, etc., will have no hesitation about doing so. Indeed,
where the soil suits the Phlox well, and the amateur or gardener
does not regard it as a florists' flower, the annual propagation is by
no means necessary, and the plant may be treated exactly as au
ordinary herbaceous one. The first year of their existence, and the
first year of their flowering, they do not rise too high to be associated
with plants that grow about sixteen or eighteen inches high ; but in
the second year they usually rise much higher, and will prove meet
companies for dahlias, early asters, and things of like height.
Many of the species of Phlox are in cultivation, some of them
excellent for rockwork, etc., and therefore we give a list of them,
with the best marked (^•'). They are generally very dwarf, and
excellent for the spring garden : —
Phlox canadensis, P. divaricatus, P. frondosus, P. Nelsoni,* P.
nivalis, P. ovatus, P. ovatus Listoniana, P. pilosa, P. procumbens,*
P. setacens, P. subulata,* P. verna,* P. suaveolens fol. var.
A concise and varied selection of the best of the newer hinds : —
Madame Corbay, Madame Duchemin, Comtesse de Turenne, Ma-
dame Lemont, Madame Hosay, Monsieur de Launay, Monsieur
Donnaud, L'Abbe Eoussel, Lucien Tisserand, Madame Devilliers,
Madame Emarant, Madame Herbeaumont, Eeve D'Or, Monsieur
Mittivier, Monsieur Paulmier, Liervalii, Etoile de Neuilly, Ma-
demoiselle Christine Nilsson, Premices du Bonheur, Eoi des Eoses,
Vierge Marie, Pigaro, Geant des Batailles, L'Avenir, Madame
Lecomte.
KOTES 0:N' MESSRS. P. AND A. SMITH'S TEICOLOE
AND BRONZE ZONAL GEEANIUMS.
T Messrs. P. and A. Smith's nursery. Park Road, West
Dulwich, is one of the finest collections of varieties
of these attractive plants. Having lately inspected
them, we offer the following notes on their characters
and qualities : —
Aureum, a golden-leaved variety, of the brightest tone of yellow,
with trace of a zone. The flowers are clear delicate cerise, produced
in abundance. As a beddcr it is unique; the leaf bright enough to
allow of the removal of the flowers, yet the peculiar tint of the
flowers renders this less necessary than in the case of strong
scarlets.
Alhamh-a, a gold zonal, in the way of Mrs. Pollock, but sur-
passing it in habit and colour ; the best bedder at present of this
group ; colouring brilliant.
Aurora is a gold zonal, with large bold leaf, and most brilliant
tones of yellow and red ; a most grand and telling kind, whether in
a bed or a pot.
Brunette, a bronze zonal j the disk and edge greenish-sulphur,
270 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
the zone bright russet-red; habit compact, and the leaf a model
of form.
Charles Dickens, a golden zonal ; the leaf very flat, a good grower,
very constant in colours, margin clear lemon-yellow, zone rayed dark
and red ; sometimes a self zone of the brightest vermilion ; a splendid
variety.
Gomhatant, a bronze zonal ; the disk and margin greenish-yellow,
the zone approximating closely to a carrot-red.
Coronet, a bronze zonal, remarkably neat in habit; leaf round
and flat, a bright green disk, the zone rayed black and red;
splendid.
Criterion, a bronze zonal; the disk and margin sulphur, the zone
rust-red ; the leaf round and flat, and most brilliantly coloured.
Crystal Palace Gem, a golden-leaved variety, with the flowers of
Lady Middleton. The leaf is superb, being slightly blotched with
bright green — that is to say, the disk is irregular and small ; the
remaining part of the leaf rich sulphur-yellow.
Defiance, a gold zonal, the margin bright yellow, the zone rich
carmine, red, and black ; the growth admirable ; a superb variety.
Eclipse, a gold zonal, the leaves too deeply lobed, the yellow
margin bright yellow, the zone brilliant vermilion-red. In colour
this has no parallel, but the deeply-indented leaves are objectionable.
Gladiator, a bronze zonal, and the most brilliant possibly of all
known varieties of this section; neat medium habit of growth ; the
leaf round and nearly flat, the disk and margin sulphur, the zone
clear chesnut, just the colour of a chesnut newly removed from the
green husk, which is the most beautiful tone of brown known in
natural colouring.
Golden Globe, a golden-leaved variety, of compact habit, with
beautiful cerise flowers. This is as good for pot culture as for
bedding, and first-rate either way.
Imperat7^ice Eugenie, a silver zonal, margin creamy white, zone
bright pink and black, the habit neat and compact, in growth almost
a miniature ; a charming variety for small beds and vases.
Jetty Lacy, a gold zonal of the finest character, the leaf narrowly
margined gold-yellow, zone intense chesnut, red, and black ; habit
all that can be desired ; a grand exhibition variety. In the open
ground this grows well, and is most striking.
L'Empereur, a gold zonal ; the margin broad and bright yellow,
the zone brilliant black and vermilion-red ; one of the most splendid
of its class, and in form of leaf and habit of growth first-rate.
Louisa Smith, a gold zonal, leaf margined with clear yellow,
which, as in the case of Mrs. Pollock, fades to whitish ; zone bright
red and black. This is of vigorous habit, and at first sight an inex-
perienced judge would proclaim it the same as Mrs. Pollock, but
when out of doors it is quite distinct and a better grower ; one of
the be?t, in fact, in this glorious class.
Miss Burdett Coutts, a silver zonal ; the disk green, broad whitish
edge, zone rayed dark and brilliant carmine. A fine variety of a
class at present too limited.
Model J a bronze zonal ; flat round leaf, disk and edge canarj-
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 271
yellow, with a tinge of green ; the zone a clear red ; peculiar and
first-rate.
Morning Star, a bronze zonal ; disk and margin a lemon-yellow,
zone a remarkable shade of cinnamon passing into red.
Mrs. Charles Barry is a bonze zonal, superior to Luna; the flowers
scarlet, the zone bright and ruddy ; habit rather robust, and in a bed
most effective.
Pet of the Parterre, a golden-leaved variety ; the leaves yellowish-
green, flowers rich scarlet; one of the best bedders on the ground.
Peri, a silver zonal, in the style of Italia Unita, but brighter;
the margin is pure white, the zone brilliant rosy-lake. Far superior
to Italia Unit a.
Plutus, a bronze zonal of most remarkable character ; the leaf
round and flat, or but slightly convex ; the disk and edge canary
colour, the zone bright rufous-red. This is one of the most brilliant
and distinct of the family, worth any money ; a bedder too, and for
exhibition capable of the greatest things.
Queen of the Fairies, a silver zonal, margin white changing to
cream, with a soft tinge of blush ; zone deep rosy-lake and black ;
most beautiful, chaste, delicate, unique.
Souvenir de Sir Joseph Paxton, a gold zonal, the margin very
narrow, but very bright gold-yellow, the zone deep crimson, red, and
black ; as the leaves acquire age they change to a soft rosy zone
and paler yellow; a good plant, shows a variety of colours, all
good.
Standard is a bronze zonal ; the leaf round and flat, a " standard "
of form for judging ; the leaf has more green in it than that of
Criterion, and the zone inclines more to chocolate ; rich, decided,
beautiful.
Sunray, a gold zonal, margin bright yellow, zone rich magenta
with shades of black ; one of the best of bedders, superb also for
pots.
The Moor is a bronze zonal ; sulphur disk and margin, zone rich
reddish-chocolate ; first-rate.
Vandyke, lighter in the zone than Mrs. Barry ; pretty, distinct ;
the fiowers rosy-salmon. Good for a collection, but not wanted
where a few are grown. S. H.
EARLY-FLOWERING PLAXTS FOR- THE GREEN-
HOUSE.
N the months of February, March, and April, every
expanded flower arrests more attention, in fact, appears
more lovely, than at any other period. Winter is just
loosening its icy hold. Nature wears a reviving aspect,
and our spirits becoming exhilarated by a lighter air
and the approach of joyous summer, we look around for some lovely
object of creation on which to realize, for the moment, our often
272 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
vague anticipations. It is yet too early to expect much variety in
the borders of the flower-garden, and the greenhouse is the only
source which will yield the desired pleasure ; and here, too frequently,
we meet only the chilling aspect of green leaves or bare stems. This,
of course, depends on the selection of plants when furnishing the
house, and may, therefore, be easily obviated. I subjoin a brief
notice of some that bloom at this desirable season, with some remarks
on their management. There are, doubtless, many others equally
suitable, but even those enumerated will be sufficient to remove the
blank so much to be complained of.
The genus ^:)ac7'/5, from containing so many interesting varieties,
must be considered indispensable. Some or other of them may bo
had in bloom from December until June. They delight in fibrous
peat, broken rough, and fine white sand. The young plants should be
frequently stopped, by pinching off the points of the shoots while
growing, to induce them to throw out laterals ; these again should
be stopped until the plants have attained a size sufficient to warrant
their blooming.
The pretty Cosmelia ruira occurs next in order. Its habit and
manner of flowering closely resemble that of the EjKict^is, though the
flowers themselves are larger and more deeply coloured. It succeeds
under the same treatment.
Faliana imhricata, although recently found to be sufficiently
hardy to bear exposure to our winter, still merits a place in the
greenhouse, on account of its precocity and its lovely heath-like pure
white blossoms.
Pultenia stricta, an old and somewhat neglected, yet certainly
beautiful, species ; when properly managed, is highly desirable ; its
spikes of bright yellow and red, pea-shaped flowers, copiously pro-
duced, render it a most pleasing object. This plant should be pruned
closely back as soon as the flowering is over, which will keep it dwarf
and handsome.
Chorozema. I need not enlarge on the beauties of this genus ;
it is universally grown, and therefore needs no commendation. A
large pot and frequently stopping will speedily produce fine plants.
Eutaxia myrtifolia is, like the Eultencea^ a plant whose beauty
depends entirely on the management it receives. During the
summer and autumn every new shoot should be stopped as soon as
it has attained two, or at most three, joints : thus it may be formed
into an extremely neat compact dwarf shrub. It is a most profuse
bloomer.
Flmelea. This genus, with its capitate heads of lovely pink,
white, and red flowers, may be classed among the best of green-
house plants. They are generally of easy management, though I
have found some difficulty with P. siwctalilis, when growing on its
own roots : it appears to do better and live longer when grafted upon
another species.
Dios7na capitata is closely allied to the Fimelea ; the colour of the
flowers is a lively lilac.
All the above plants succeed under the same treatment : they
delight in sandy peat containing plenty of fibre, and require plenty
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 273
of air at all times, and should be kept constantly moist, though
never saturated, with frequent stopping, to keep them close and
dwarf.
Next to these is the Genista, with its splendid corymbs of bright
yellow blossoms ; these require rich turfy loam to grow in, plenty of
air and water, and but very little pruning, being naturally close, com-
pact-growing plants.
The BoroniaSj too, are charming plants ; though not quite so early
to flower as some others, yet in April and May they are fine objects ;
the prevailing colour in their flowers is a rich rosy red. They should
be grown in peat, loam, and sand, and make rapid progress when
grown in large pots.
Oxylobium retusum and ohoratum are two fine plants, afifording a
pleasing variety among the other plants named, from their more robust
habit and larger foliage. The flowers are papilionaceous, of a bright
orange and red : fibrous peat suits them best.
Among these we have nearly every colour except blue, and this
may be had in Kennedia monophyJla, a lovely climbing plant, bearing
copiously racemes of blue and white pea-shaped flowers. It delights
in peat and loam, and should be trained upon a wire trellis. It
requires but very little pruning.
Leclienaultia formosa is a delicate low-growing plant, rather
difficult in its management, but when seen in good order, a most
lovely object, being densely covered with small bright red flowers.
It requires to be potted in fibrous peat with nearly an equal quantity
of silver sand ; a few rough pebbles mixed in the soil will induce it
to root more readily. An abundant supply of air and water should
be given it during summer, reducing the quantity of each on the
approach of winter.
The above selection, with the assistance of a few azaleas, camel-
lias, and rhododendrons, would render a greenhouse all that could be
desired for the first three months of the returning season, when
they would be succeeded by the pelargoniums and other summer-
flowering plants. P.
THE ANGULAR PEICKLY SHIELD PEEK
[HIS beautiftil hardy fern may be found in every choice
garden, and is frequently valued as a greenhouse plant,
but is not much known in gardens where fernn have only
casual or accidental notice. It is remarkable lor richness
of character, freshness of colour, and distinctness, and
it is so accommodating in constitution that a very little care is needed
to insure a vigorous growth. The principal features of the Angular
Prickly Shield Fern, Polijstichum angulare, are the following : — A
thick, tufted, scaly, and sometimes semi-treelike caudex ; fronds two
to four feet high, usually lax, spreading, the stipes and rachis densely
scaly, and a rich brown colour ; iiinncB numerous, linear-lanceolate,
those near the base usually diminishing, but sometimes enlarging
TOL. II. — NO. IX. 18
l^^
POLT.STICnUM ANGl'LVllE.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 275
in length ; pinnules crescent-sbaped, with a distinct anterior lobe or
auricle ; the colour a full rich deep green. Fructification dorsal, occu-
pying the greater part of the fronds, sori forming a line on each side
of the mid- vein, usually crowded, spore cases a rich brown colour.
In what is considered its normal form, that is to say the species,
and which is here figured, the fronds are usually arranged in a
spreading, arching circlet round the crown, but in the varieties this
character is more or less departed from, and especially so in those
that are proliferous. In addition to its richness of character in
colour, form, and divisions, this fern has the advantage of being
perfectly evergreen, and thoroughly hardy, and equally adapted for
culture under glass and in the open air. 1 am acquainted with about
sixty varieties of P. anguJare, and I should give precedence to the fol-
lowing for a choice collection : —
P. a. affine. — The pinnules are roundly sickle-shaped, with fine
teeth along their margins, growth robust, and in several points resem-
bling that of P. acuhafum.
P. a. convexum. — The pinnules strikingly convex ; a rich bright
variety.
P. a. cristatum. — The pinnae beautifully tasselled.
P. a. decompositum. — Very finely divided, extremely elegant when
grown to a good size.
P. a. dissimile. — Fronds variable in character, interesting and
curious.
P. a. gmndideus. — Thick-textured, dark green, terminating
abruptly, as if cut at the point, or with horn-like processes at the
apex, the pinnules have sharp and prominent teeth. One of the
most interesting of all.
P. a. irnhricatum. — Pinnules scarcely lobed, crowded, and over-
lapping ; rich and distinct.
P. a. Kitsonice. — A robust and beautiful variety, the fronds of
which are elegantly tufted at the apex, pinnules very much and finely
toothed.
p. ^. plumosum. — Fronds two and a-half feet long and seven
inches wide, pinnules of great size, thin in texture, light green in
colour, and deeply incised. Undoubtedly, the most splendid of the
series, and abundantly suitable to grow for exhibition.
P. a. polijdactijlon. — The apex and the pinna? forked and branched,
pinnules wanting in some parts of the frond, in other parts very
small. Elegant and curious.
P. a. prolifcncm. — This is the greatest favourite of the series for
bouquet.>5, and in almost every greenhouse a few plants may be found.
It is extremely elegant in form and brightly coloured, and notable
for its tufted growth, every mature frond bearing near its base one
or more young plants. If these are removed and planted in sandy
peat, and put in a close, shady, moist place, they soon emit roots, and
become independent plants.
P. a. Fuoti. — A pretty proliferous form, the pinnules acutely
serrated.
P. a. WoUastoni. — A rich and robust proliferous variety, more
finely cut and of more lax habit than prolifemm, and one of the best
in cultivation.
-^-^■a^JlU^^
i^'
LASTREA FILIX MAS, VAR. GRANDICEPS.
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 277
p. a. pteropliorum. — Fronds broadly lanceolate, pinnules large
and crowded, beautiful and distinct.
P. a. stipatum. — Fronds lanceolate, pinnules broad and over-
lapping, and appearing crispy, fine, and distinct.
P. a. jparvissimum. — Messrs. Lucombe, Pince, and Co., of Exeter,
supplied me with a small plant of this variety two years ago. It is
now a fine specimen, remarkable for its dwarf habit, and the imbri-
cated or overlapping arrangement of the pinnules j certainly one of
the prettiest varieties in cultivation.
To cultivate any of these varieties successfully, a little more than
the ordinary care required by hardy ferns must be bestowed upon
them. In many positions where the common male fern would
thrive, the angular prickly fern would quickly perish. Shade,
moisture, and a rich soil are the principal requisites, but the drainage
must be at all times perfect. They may all be grown well in sandy
peat, but a mellow, hazelly loam, with a fourth part of rotted turf
or leaf-mould added, is preferable. A pasty soil will never do;
therefore, if the staple is not naturally gritty, add sharp sand, or
fragments of broken sandstone in sufficient quantities to render the
soil granular and porous. They will all thrive when their roots can
freely penetrate rotten or decaying wood ; hence they are well adapted
to plant amongst roots and butts of trees in shady places. They are
all well adapted, too, for ferneries under glass, and, if judiciously
distributed, add very much to the interest and beauty of the
scene. S. H.
LASTEEA F. M. YAR. GEANDICEPS.
MONGST several new fern varieties sent me by Mr.
Sim, of Foot's Cray, Kent, three years ago, was a plant
of the grandiceps variety of Lastrea filix, onas. In the
summer of 1866, a sketch w^as made of one of the fronds,
with a view to its being placed in our select list " some
day." But I bring it forward now with a special recommendation
to all collectors of varieties to secure it, for I find that as it acquires
age, new and splendid characters are developed ; and my best plant
is now so densely crisped and tasselled, as to present quite a remark-
able appearance. The figure shows the first form of the variety, the
apex being elegantly forked and tasselled, and the pinnae terminate
in tasselled tufts. Every year these forks and tassels increase in
number and density, and the plant at last becomes a most fit and
proper companion to that grandest of the series, L. f. m. cristata.
All our best plants of the crisped varieties of hardy ferns are
grown constantly under glass, a method which secures richer de-
velopment and unchangeable brightness and beauty. S. H.
278
CULTUEE OF THE OEANGE.
"N CE the Citrus Aurantium, or common Orange, was the most
fashionable and prevailing ornament of the greenhouse
and conservatory, and it is still, though so much neglected,
' well deserving the little skill and attention necessary to
its growth. Its beauties are known to every one at all
conversant with horticulture, and therefore they require no encomium,
though were it only for the pleasing associations so intimately con-
nected with the plant, room should be found for it in every suitable
plant structure of the least pretensions. " It is," as Loudon has
observed, " one of the most striking of fruit-bearing trees, and
must have attracted the notice of aboriginal man long before other
fruits of less brilliancy, though of more nutriment or flavour."
The first requisite to the culture of this noble plant is a strong
rich soil, composed chiefly of friable loam from a common or pasture,
with the addition of about a third of old hotbed manure, and a rather
less quantity of peat or clean sand ; these thoroughly incorporated,
aff'ord a highly nutritious medium for the roots. The only other
point of consequence in their management is to provide an agreeable
temperature aod some slight shade while the new wood is being
formed : the usual greenhouse treatment will preserve them in ex-
cellent health at all other times, but thenthej require, and must have,
if luxuriant plants are desired, a close humid atmosphere, with a
temperature of about 60', and protection from the sun's rays until
the new growth is completed.
Yery little pruning is best for them, only just to keep them
in order and proper form, except in the case of old trees that
have become naked and unsightly ; these are much benefited by
severely cutting back, being at the same time repotted and placed
in heat, to induce them the more readily to form a new and luxuriant
growth.
Oranges are frequently infested with two troublesome insects,
the scale and mealy bug. The most eff'ectual remedy for them is,
sponging all over the plant with warm soap-suds, and afterwards
cleaning with the syringe ; attention to the above, and the usual
routine, watering, etc., with an occasional supply of liquid manure,
yf\\\ insure handsome healthy plants, and plenty of fruit. W.
EEANTHEMUM PIJLCHELLUM.
E AKTHEMIBI pulchellum is a native of the East Indies,
whence it was brought about the year 1796. Some
time since the name was changed. There are, or were,
three species of Eranthemum — all of them ornamental ;
but the finest is certainly the present subject, producing
its spikes of beautiful blue flowers from Januarv to October.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
279
In cultivating it, the first essential is a proper soil : the most
suitable is a mixture of about two-thirds sandy peat, and the rest
turfy loam ; if more loam is used, the plant often assumes a short
stunted growth, and does not produce its flowers so freely or so fine.
In potting, the soil should not be broken too much, but used rather
rough ; this allows the water to percolate through the entire mass
more regularly than when packed in closely. AV^hen potted in the
spring, plenty of room should be allowed the roots, as they grow
rapidly, and they may be reduced for the winter potting. At each
shifting a good drainage must be provided by placing first a few pieces
of broken pot, and on them some rough pieces of turf or peat. The
plant delights in a moist heat during the growing season, which com-
mences with it about the middle of December.
Seasonal treatment is of vital importance in most cases, but with
respect to the plant under consideration, the difi'erence need not be
so strongly marked ; though a reduction in the size of the pot, and
so of the quantity of earth, and also of moisture, both topical and
atmospheric, should be observed at the close of the growing season,
which, as with other plants, occurs about September ; the plant is
then in a better state to pass through the winter, and to receive an
increase of stimuli at the season of increasing vigour. It may be
observed that as the plant produces its flowers from the points of the
current year's shoots, or on the new wood, more flowers will be pro-
duced by pruning every branch at the time of shifting for the winter,
which should be done at the usual period for such work — September.
J. E. B.
HAMBLINa THOUGHTS.
H, let us leave these scenes of strife
To learn a happier mode of life,
And, far from city and from town,
Our days with sweeter moments crown ;
To ramble o'er the flowery heath,
And gather Flora's wilding wreath ;
And over glen, and wood and dale.
And barren moor and fruitful vale ;
And through the arches tall and wide
Of trees that grow in ancient pride ;
Over the fen and wood-crowned hill,
And down beside the pebbly rill ;
Over the green and mossy bank,
Where harebells grow all fresh and dank
Or in the cooling forest brake,
The echoing songs of birds to wake ;
And hear the blackbird's joyous notes,
Whilst on the breeze sweet music floats ;
To lie beside the mossy brink
Of fountains where the red-deer drink ;
Or on the cooling margin stray
Of laughing brooks, that glide away
280 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
To greenwood shades, where silent birth
Is given to buds that perfume earth ;
To waving groves aud sunny fields,
"Where Nature still fresh beauty yields ;
To watch the early morning gleams.
And hear the sound of dashing streams ;
As down the craggy clifi" so tall,
They fearless leap the cascade wall ;
To gaze upon the silver sheen,
"Where floating islands ever green
Lie sofdy on the rolling tide,
Which sweeps along so deep and wide ;
To find in every flower and leaf
An antidote to care and grief;
To hear in every morning breeze,
And in the midnight sound of trees,
A cheering voice to teach the way
To gain each morn a happier day :
Still whispering Hope, and Joy, and Rest,
To soothe the soul, and make it blest ;
And in the heart's deep crystal tide.
The scars and stings of Grief to hide ;
Or when the moon is marching through
The midnight arch so round and blue,
To rove upon the soft green sod,
And view the starry bests of God !
And while our souls seem borne away,
To feel ourselves as grand as they,
To seek the joy of worlds above.
And grow in warmth of Praise and Love.
DESIGNS FOR SELECT BEDS OF HARDY PLANTS.
^fpffS AVING so often spoken in praise of the finer hardy plants, and advocated
Ia S-^ \- their being more extensively used, we now proceed to point out how
f§ P^^ I'; they may be arranged with the best result. Never within the history
S&^^£*y' of JBritish gardening have they been well planted out. "We have either
an ugly mixed border or nothing at all. This article is written to
explain how the finer hardy plants may be arrangf d in a satisfactory way, and one,
moreover, which will be a source of lasting beauty, without any annual trouble,
such as is given by the tender bedding plants.
First, then, fcr a noble circular bed in an isolated place, say on some little glade
of grass where there is a recess in a shrubbery, where you, perhaps, never thought
of putting anything. Have a bed thoroughly well prepared in the first instance,
say 8ft., 10ft., or 12ft. wide, according to the size of your place, or the nook in
which you plant. What we mean by well prepared is, that the soil should be
rich, free, well drained, and 3ft. deep, if possible. As one preparation is all
that we require, no sensible person will begrudge the labour necessary in the
first instance. Care should be taken that the far-searching roots of trees do not
get to the soil of the bed, and rob the plants of their nutriment. In a word,
though the bed will be the better for being associated with handsome shrubs
and trees, it must never be so placed as to become a mere trough of rich food
for trees with voracious appetites. As the kind cf arrangements we are about to
recommend give no trouble after the first planting, they should get the best attention,
at first, and then they are finished for years. It is a most unsatisfactory, and
to seme extent contemptible, mode of gardening, that of continually "muddling"
over the same ground, spring after spring and autumn after autumn, and we con-
tinually labour in the hope of giving it a death-thrust some day. Doubtless, it is
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 281
necessary to do it for some things, and may alvrays be so to some extent ; but to
have all the skill and labour thrown away upon fleeting things is really stupid, and
totally opposed to any permanent or dignified work being done in the garden. The
best and highest pleasure to be derived from our gardens will soon be found to lie
in those things which, when once well done, we may leave alone for years, and in
some cases for the course of our natural lives and t^e lives of those who come after
us. A result of this kind is now, and has been, frequently attained with trees,
etc. Our desire is to apply more and more to such things, but at the same time to
the humbler, but more immediately attractive world of flowers. So, to commence
with bed No. 1, wo will place a good plant of the very tall and late-flowering
Tritoma grandis, and then around it a circle of the excellent and somewhat smaller
T. glaucescens. Follow that with a ring of the beautiful white Anemone Hono-
rine Jobert, and the showy and splendid Rudbeckia Newraanni, mixed plant for
plant; and outside of that again place a circle of the fine new herbaceous Sedum
spectabile (sold and known as S. fabaria). This Sedum will form a grand edge to
the bed, and flower, like its fellows, finely in autumn ; while immediately outside
of it, and between it and the grass, might be planted a line of Snowdrops, or
Scilla bifolia, or both mixed. These would flower, ripen their leaves, and perish
before the stronger margins started np. The above would form a grand autumn
bed, and a uohle object from any point of view— its aspect all through the spring
and early summer being fresh, healthy, and in every way unobjectionable in such a
position as we have indicated for it.
Should any reader be unable to procure the above plants in sufficient_ numbers
to make such an arrangement at once, he may soon obtain them by planting what
he has got of each in good ground. We shall confine ourselves as much as possible
in dealing wiih this suhjcct to things that everybody can grow and obtain without
diflaculty ; and we woTild advise every amateur and eveiy gardener to have a good
rich border in which to plant his first stock of each good thing, in which it might
increase with rapidity and become ready for any use that may be designed for it.
Of course we may plant them in borders and the like, and take them up and divide
them ; but much the best way is to have a border of good earth, in which they may
be planted in rows, and where all the new and rare hardy plants may be looked
after conveniently. Many a new subject gets an undeservedly bad character from
being placed among a mixed and already established lot, which shade or otherwise
injure it. When we got a new plant we immediately look to s^e if there be a
possibility of dividing it, and in nine cases out of ten there is. We then carefully
pull the roots apart, save every shoot or division, however small, and place them in
a line in a border of good soil, and thus get each bit to make a capital plant, in as
quick time perhaps as the complete root would make one if planted undivided —
indeed, often more so, for young plants of this kind frequently grow quicker thaa
old tufts.
No. 2. This shall be an evergreen bed, highly suited for a position near small
clumps of choice shrubs, or indeed anywhere that a place may be found for it. In
the centre a healthy, good young plant of Yucca gloriosa, and around it a ring
mixed of Yucca filamentosa and flaccida mixed. These two kinds flower regularly
and well. If among them you could thoughtfully insert a few roots of Gladiolus in
early summer, they would add very much to the effect of the white flowers of the
Yuccas. Around "the Yuccas place a ring of Iberis sasatilis, and around that a
ring of that capital little spring plant. Erica carnea. Finally, if there be room—
and if you have your bed in an isolated spot you can of course make it as wide as
you like— put a little cushion of the beautiful Aubrietia grandiflora all round
your Erica carnea ; and if you have a few Crimean or common Snowdrops, or Scilla
bifolia, to spare, to drop here and there between the Erica and the Aubrietia, we
don't think you will regret it.
No. 3. This shall be a grand bed of Lilies. Unhappily, the fine hai'dy kin^sof
Lilies arc anything but as plentiful as we could wish them, though in a free rich
soil they increase readily enough. Few, indeed, will have them sufliciently plen-
tiful for some time to make beds of them, but when once people know how truly
fine they are when seen well arranged in a large bed in an isolated place, they will
hardly rest content without such a glorious garden ornament. Wiih such kinds as
Liliura testaccum and tigrinura Fortunei in the centre, surrounded by the queenly
candidum, burnished croceum, spotted canadense, pomponium, colchicum, vivid
chalcedonicum, and gradually worked down to the edge with dwarf but beautiful
282 THE FLORAI. WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
kinds like pulchellum, eiimium, longiflorum, and tenuiflorum, a large circular or
oval bed might be made on tbe grass, in some isolated spot, which, for the highest
beauties of colour, form, and fragrance — for, in fact, almost every quality by which
vegetable beauty endears itself to us— could not be equalled by any arrangement
of indoor or outdoor plaxits that we can call to mind. The only precaution we need
mention is, that to grow lilies well they should have three feet, or nearly that, of
free loamy earth, with a good dash of vegetable mould in it. Even now such kinds
as L. tigrinum, longifloruru, caTididum, croceum, bulbiferum, etc., are ).o be had
pretty cheap— although the cluef thing that gardeners have been doing with the
hardy Lilies for some time past has been to throw them on the i-ubbish heap,' to
make way for such glorious stuff as the yellow Calceolaria and the red Geranium.
No. 4. A mixed bed, cartjfuUy arranged as to height, and tastefully as to the
quality and disposition of the contents. In this kind of bed we should, of course,
have no band or circle whatever, but simply a careful following of the old mixed
principle. We doubt if we could find a better centre for this type of bed than a
good kind of Perpetual Rose, grown upon its own roots, or worked very low, or
trained as a pyramidal bush — say four feet high, more or less, according to taste —
and the subjects to be grouped in the bed. No weedy subject should occur in a
bed of this kind, but, on the contrary, everything of the most distinct beauty. You
may employ in such a bed anything, from a tuft of Campanula carpatica bieolor on
its outer edge, to the choicest pink Phlox or Picotee, the newest Delphinium, or
the oldest spring flower. To specify a few choice things for such a bed, we will
name — for the middle parts and around the central subject, Platycodon autumnale,
or P. grandiflonim, Delphiniums (some of the newer and better varieties), Aconitum
variegatum, Achillea filipendula, Pnloxes, Campanula persicifolia alba and C. coro-
nata. Iris jacquesiana, palliia, and De Bergii, with a host of others equally good.
For the middle region of the bed such plants as Dielytra spectabilis, Trollius napel-
lifolius, Armeria cephalotes, Hoteia japonica, Pent^teraon in its best forms, double
Wallflowers, Achillea ptarmica, fl. pi., would do charmingly; while near the margin
such dwarf beauties as Cheiranthus alpinus, Ranunculus amplexicaulis, Achillea
aurea, the Iberises, the dwarf Phloxes, a few of the better Sedums and Semper-
vivums, an odd neat variegated or silvery plant, and even little tinv shrubs like the
charming Gaultheria procumbens, will prove quite attractive. This kind of bed
admits of infinite variety and lasting interest.
Next we come to No. 5. A bed of beautiful hardy foliage plants, interspersed
with good bulbs or other spring-growing flowering things, which will show
above the foliage and amongst it. In this way we may have two distinct styles
— one of dwarf, neat objects; and one of tall or strong-growing ones. In the
centre of the first, which need not be more than six feet wide or so, we would not
put anything higher than a plant of Acanthus spinosissimus or Arundo donax versi-
color in the centre. This Arundo is fine when it is strong enough to make six or
seven shoots, and has been protected through the winter by a little pile of cocoa
fibre, or something of the sort. It only pushes between two and three feet high,
in consequence of its variegition, and therefore is very suitable for the style of bed
we are now discussing. Around it we should place either a complete line of some
pretty green-leaved plant-like specimens of Rhus glabra laciniata, a little shrub
with elegant leaves, or the Achillea with silvery leaves, or both mixed, with the
flowers pinched off the Achillea ; or say a mixed line of the two Santolinas, viridis
and chamaecyparissus, mixed plant for plant ; variegated Jacob's Ladder — the
flowers and stems of this last to be pinched oS as soon as they show themselves,
or rather to be nipped out altogether — and with it mixed the fern-like Thalictruni
minus. There are dozens of both silvery-leaved and other plants which would
edge such an arrangement charmingly — from young plants of the fine Salvia
argentea to Alyssum spinosum, or Antennaria tomentosa ; if, indeed, it would not
be better to have a mixed planting of dvvarf and elegant little plants all round. In
most of the interspaces of such a bed the judicious cultivator might, if he chose,
plant bulbs, etc. — say a sprinkling of Gladioli towards the centre, a few Tulips
about the middle distance, and any choice and delicate spring bulbs about the
margin. These would in most cases come up and flower ere the foliage plants were
vigorous. Where they do not do so, as in the case of the Gladioli, the result is
nothing to be alarmed about, inasmuch as the effect of these magnificently-coloured
flowers among the rich and elegant foliage will prove simply superb. — The Field,
■1S3
m vimis, SEEDS, etc.
SELECTIONS OF TRICOLOR GERANIUMS.
A SELECTION OF TWELVE GOLD-MARGINED TRI-
COLOBS,
Averaging IO5. 6d. to 31*. 6cl. eacli.
Zadi/ Cullum (E. G. Henderson). — Richest
in shades of gold, yellow, and grass-green,
with fine shades of red ; a good grower,
-j^f^' . keeping its colour long, and in due lime will be a
bedder.
Lucy Grieve (E. G. H.). — Fine for the intensity of the red zone.
Sophia Bumaresque (E. G. H.).— In neatness of habit near fulfil-
ment of the law of pi operties and regular balance of colours in disk, zone,
and margin ; one of the finest of all.
Meteor (Saltmarsh and Son). — Fine for properties, the leaf being almost cir-
cular and quite tiat, zone rich in shades of red, margin fine cbrome-yellow, very
distinct, and fine constitution.
Queen Victoria {^.VQrk\r\?, and Son).— Quite distinct and striking in colours,
showing at a distance a blending of blue, scarlet, and gold colour, the disk being
very dark or bluish green, the zone being fiery and the margin deep yellow.
"Will be a superb bedder.
Jetty Lacy (F. and A. Smith). — The form of the leaf good, the zone notable for
splendid shades of chestnut, brick-red, and jet-black ; makes a brilliant specimen.
Beauty of Surrey (F. and A. S.).— Margin brilliant yellow, zone rich umber
with black i^hades and bars of bright carmine, small bright green disk ; distinct and
peculiarly rich.
Eclipse (F. and A. Smith). — Leaves rather too large, and too profoundly lobed,
but the zone so rich in vermilion-red that we must put up with the irregularities of
form ; a splendid variety.
Defiance (K. and A. S.).— Lemon yellow fading to straw colour, the zone carmine
and black, with obscure patches of deep brown. There is so much blue in the red
of the zone that when a fine plant is in fine condition, there is a purplish hue per-
ceptible, in pleasing contrast to the black, green, and yellow.
3/r5.Z>a- (Watson).— Very neat in habit, of medium size throughout, and com-
ing near to win thirty in the three first sections of the code. Colours well
balanced, growth good, and will in time be a bedder.
Louisa Smith ^F. and A. S.). — Brilliant red, black, and gold colouring, and one
of the neatest habited in growth. Worth a place, if only six were selected.
Titania (Carter and Co.). — Remarkable for the brilliant shades of red and the
rich deep black of the zone, the margin being a beautiful shade of yellow. If we
wanted only six, this must be one of them.
A SELECTION OF SIX SiLVER-MAnGINED TEICOLORS,
Averaging \0s. Qd. to 31*. Qd. each.
Queen Victoria (F. and A. S.). — Very neat in growth, margin creamy, some-
times pale sulpliur, zone showing delicate and pleasing shades of red.
Princess of Wales (F. and A. S.).— Foliage large and abundant, margins
creamy white, zones showing shades of black and purplish red ; fine.
Impcratrice Euyenie (F. and A. S.). — Showing as much colour as any of its
class out ; perhaps more colour than any of its class known. A slow grower, but
constitution good, and safe for a bedder.
Caroline Longfield (E. G. H.).— A certain surpass of Italia Unit^.
Wassand Halt Beauty (E. G. H.). — Peculiarly adapted for bedding, but as a
284 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
pot plant not colour enough ; the zone being a good shade of chocolate, with rather
washy patches of rose. For elegant work in bedding invaluable.
Light and Shadoio (E, G. H.). — A good zone on a good margin, peculiarly
beautiful when in tlower, and therefore well adapted for a specimen.
SELECTION OF CHEAP A^ARIETIES OF GOLD AND SILVER TRICOLORS,
All obtainable at from 1*. to 25. Qd. each.
Gold. — Mrs. PollocJc, Sunset, Yelloio Belt^ Mrs. 'Benyon^ Golden Defiance,
Sunbeam, Socrates.
Silver. — United Italy, Soneycomh, Lady of Shallot, The Countess, Silver
Star, Ficturata.
A selection of four new bronze zonals,
Averaging 7*. Qd. to lO*. Qd. each.
'Electra (E. G. H.). — A fine brown zone on a flat leaf ; a free flowering variety.
Tlleetric (Saltmarsh and Son). — In the way of Luna, with richer colours and
heavier zone. Superb out of doors.
Venus (S. and S.). — Much gold and little zone, good habit, and flowering freely ;
very attractive and peculiar as a bedder.
Criterion (F. and A. S.). — The most perfect of all this class, the leaf being round
and flat, disk and margin sulphur, zone brilliant rufous red.
a selection of cheap varieties of bronze zonals.
Luna, Beauty of Oulton, Bronze Queen, Canary Bird (useful only as a bedder),
Mrs. Maxwell, Mutton, Zinyara, Aureum (a splendid bedder).
NEW PLANTS.
ACSONIA BUCHANANI, Buchanans Passion Flower (Vlllust. Sort.,
t. 519). — Passifloraceffi. A distinct species, which in several points
resembles T. ignea. It is a native of Panama, and is named in honour
of Mr. Buchanan, of New York, who was the first to cultivate it. The
leaves are three to five-lobed, the flowers measure three to four inches
in diameter, tbey are of a brilliant scarlet colour.
Viola ped4.ta, Falmate-leaved Viola {Vlllust. Hort., t. 520). — ^Violacese. A
beautiful figure of a well-known and extremely pretty species, which would, no
doubt, answer equally well for bedding as V. cornuta.
Smilax LONGiFOLiA VARiEGATA, Variegated long-leaved Sarsa'parilla [Vlllust.
Sort., t. 521). — Smilace^. A beautiful variety of this well-known climber. The
leaves are marked with cloudy lines of creamy variegation.
Dendrobium Bullebianum, Mr. Wentioorth Btdler's Dendrole (Bot. Mag.,
t. 5652). — Orchidacete. A pretty species, native of Moulmein. It is most nearly
allied to I>. crepidatum, but is abundantly distinguished by the form of the lip,
which is broadly ovate, or almost triangular. In size and colouring it approaches
nearest to J). JDevoniamim. The flowers ai'e creamy white, faintly tipped with
rose, the lip has a large circular disk of yellow, the margin creamy white.
Epidendbum CREMiDOPHOROM, Sheathed Fpidendrtmi {Bot. Mag., t. 5656).
— Orchidacese. A remarkable plant, long since discovered by Mr. Skinner, but was
only recently flowered at Oulton, where it receives the most ordinary greenhouse
treatment, "it is a stately robust, terrestrial plant, forming tufts of stout, leafy
stems, and dark green leaves six to ten inches long. The flowers are in a nodding
raceme, the sepals and petals chocolate brown, with yellow spots, the hp pale rose.
Begonia Boliviensis, Bolivian Begonia (Bot. Mag., t. 5657).— A splendid
species, with small, narrow, grass-green leaves, and large, drooping, campanulate
scarlet flowers.
Pbosxantheba nivea, Snow-white Frostanthera {Bot, Mag.^ t. 5658). — La-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 285
biatae. A native of rocky hills in New Sonth "Wales. A glabrous shrub, three to
four feet high, with linear leaves and pretty blush white flowers.
Ci^sTRUM ELEGANS, Purple Rabrothamnus {Bot. Mag., t. 5659). — Solanaceae.
This fine Mexican slirub is equally to be valued for its brilliant rosy carmine tubular
flowers, and its grape-like clusters of deep purple berries. It is one of the best
plants known for a mixed collection.
Agave xylonacantha, Wood y-thorned Agave {Bot. Mag., t. 5660). — Amaryl-
lidese. This is a native of Real del Monte, Mexico. It is steraless, the leaves spread
all round. They are two or three feet long and three to five inches broad, tliick, suc-
culent, but neither keeled, striated, nor ribbed ; glaucous green, margin beset with
flat-lobed spinous processes. Scape nine to ten feet high, flowers in a dense raceme
three to four feet long, clustered in twos and threes, perianth and ovary green, fila-
ments and anthers yellow.
GARDEN GUIDE FOR SEPTEMBER.
Kitchen Garden. — In very early and well-favoured districts, turnips may be
sown on land lately cleaned and in good heart, but it is useless to sow in cold
climates, or where the land lies low and damp. Collards must be planted out rather
thick, they will be of great service when the Brussels sprouts and other late autumn
vegetables are over. Ti,ose who sowed runners late will now have abundant sup-
plies, which will continue till frost makes an end of them. Keep all plantations
clear of weeds, and thin winter spinach where the plants touch, but otherwise leave
it rather thick, on the speculation that winter will thin it. Plant out a few rows of
lettuce and broccoli under a warm wall.
Floioer Garden. — Evergreens of all kinds may now be planted, and if the work
is well done, the plants will scarcely feel the check, as they will make plenty of new
roots before winter. Plant hardy herbaceous plants of all kinds, look after ripe
seeds of choice things in good time, and secure stock of bedding plants, if the
quantities required for next season are not yet made.
Fruit Garden. — In gathering fruit it should be remembered that fruit full ripe
does not keep long. Yet it must not be gathered until the ripening process has
commenced, or it will be inferior in flavour, and equally quick iu perishing. This
is a good time to plant strawberries. Bush fruit required to hang late should be
netted, to protect it from the birds.
Greenhouse and Stove. — Cinerarias, primulas, and many other subjects now
coming on for winter flowers, will require to be shifted on. It is the worst possible
practice to keep such things a long time starving m small pots. Get all the houses
and pits cleaned, glazed, painted, or whatever else requires to be done to make
them right for the winter. Lessen the supplies of water to all hard-wooded plants
that have been turned out of doors, but take care that none of them suffer.
*** Past issues of the Floral World contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Gakden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons, the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year. _^
NEWS OF THE MONTH.
The ExHTBiTiONS or the Past Month have been quite equal to the average,
and in many instances provincial societies have manifested mote than ordinary life
and spirit in the conduct of their exhibitions. At Peterborough we were grati-
fied to see stove and greenhouse plants, roses, pelargoniums, and ferns in great
plenty and vaiiety ; and a spirited competition by ladies in a class for dinner-table
decorations. JJr. Porter and the Rev. G. W. Thomas were particularly energetic,
and they contributed beautiful groups of achimenes, gloxinias, balsams, orchard-
house trees and ferns. The judges, Messrs. Pearson, F. Smith, and S. Hibberd,
selected from amongst a great number of bouquets one contributed by Mrs.
286 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Macaulay, and pronounced tl>e best they had met with in all their experience. It
consisted only of white and pink geraniums, with a few bits of blue lobelia, with a
margin of maidenhair fern, the outline being slightly convex. Mrs. Macaulay was
awarded for this a five guinea cup. Mrs. Porter took the most honourable place in
the competition for the best dinner-table decoration, with a plateau richly dressed
with fruit, above which rose a silver nautilus shell filled with flowers. Messrs. F.
and A. Smith, of Dulwich, exhibited their magnificent collection of tricolor-leaved
pelargoniums. At Taunton, the exhibition proved to be the best of any that have
taken place in the West of England ; no less than five great tents being fully occu-
pied. Mr. J. B. Saunders, a spirited amateur of the district, carried off a host of
prizes with his superb examples of fine-fuliaged plants, ferns, and flowering plants.
There was a great competition by eminent trade growers, and the b 'st productions
of Messrs. B. and S. Williams, Lucombe, Pince and Co , R. Yeitch, Nelson, Drura-
mond, and Keynes, were liberally brought forward. Dahlias, pelargoniums, holly-
hocks, and verbenas were shown in splendid condition and variety. The judges,
Messrs. Turner, Keynes, and S. Hibberd, awarded certificates to several meritorious
novelties, not the least important amongst them being the new grape, Mrs. Pince s
Muscat, a black grape, with true Muscat flavour, which possesses remarkable
keeping properties, and may be allowed to hang on the vines till April or even
May. The vine is remarkably fruitful, and as the fruit can be perfectly ripened in a
cool house, and left on the vine -till wanted, this variety will, in many instances,
render early forcing unnecessary.
A Testimonial to Mr. Robert Thompson, who, for forty years past, has super-
intended the Horticultural Society's Garden at Chiswick, has been proposed by the
Council, who, we understand, intend to supplement it with a retiring pension, Mr.
Thompson having resolved to rest from his labours. It is to be hoped that the
patrons and promoters of horticulture will support this movement generously, both
in recognition of Mr. Thompson's eminent services to horticulture and meteorology,
and to "gladden and solace," by a substantial money gift, "the remaining years
of his life." Those of our readers who wish to contribute are desired to forward their
subscriptions to Thomas Moore, Esq., Botanic Garden, Chelsea.
International Exhibitions of horticultural productions appear to be still in
high favour. There is to be a grand exhibition of the kind at Ghent m the spring
of 1868, and another at St. Petersburg in May, 1869. It is anticipated that the
Americans will make an attempt at a great gathering in 1870, but the enormous
distance will of necessity limit the number and variety of contributions from the
Old World.
A Testimonial to Mr. Bruce Findlat, the able curator of the Manchester
Botanic Gardens, is in course of promotion by the Council, in recognition of Mr.
Findlay's services in the improvement of the garden, and especially of his labours
in connection with the recent great exhibition at Manchester.
Classification of Zonal antj Variegated Pelaugoniums. — The repeated
discussions and the occasional unpleasant and injurious disputes as to the proper
classification of the plants commonly known as " geraniums," render it highly
desirable that cultivators should agree to a system and avoid all hair-splitting in
the interpretation of schedules. To make an end of all the difiiculties that beset
the subject, Mr. Hibberd has proposed in the " Gardener's Magazine" (July 27, 1867)
a scheme for their arrangement in nine classes. In this classification the term
" variegated" is limited to the white and creamy-edged varieties, which are destitute
of coloured zones, such as Alma, Mrs. Lennox, Flower of the Day, etc. The terms
" bicolor" and " tricolor," are abolished, because many bicolors are so weak in
their zone colours that the question will always arise, and in respect of the tricolors,
they all exhibit more than three colours, so that in truth the term has never been
appropriate. The following are the classes proposed in the paper refeired to : —
1, Green-leaved, example Tom Thumb. 2, Zonal-leaved, example Hibberd's T'et.
3, I^osegays, example Stella. 4, Variegated-leaved, example Flower of the Day.
5, Golden-leaved, example Golden Chain. 6, Bronze- zonals, example Luna.
7, Gold-zonals, example Mrs. Pollock. 8, Silver-zonals, example United Italy.
9, Double-flowered, example Gloire de Nancy. We might reduce these to seven
classes by restricting the classification to the leaves alone ; the nosegays and double
flowering kinds would then take their places in the green and zonal classes, and we
should not regret if green and zonal were compounded in one class, which would reduc«
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 287
the number to six. Of course, it is not expected that my classification will serve
every purpose required of it, but the errand object is to establish a system available
for exhibition purposes, and which will always admit of a simple and unvarying
interpretation.
Gatheuixg a Feun. — Miss Jane Myers, a youn^ lady, fell over the rocks at
Craighall, Scotland, and died at Blairgowrie, three diys after, of the injuries she
sustained. The most serious wound was on her right leg, the ankle-bone of which
was dislocated nnd protruded several inches throuoh the flesh ; but her whole system
had received a shock fiom which recovery was impossible. The lady stated before
her death that, having wandered up to the cliff, intending to proceed to the water-
side, and being fond of botanical specimens, she had stoop d to gather a fern, when
some loose earth gave way, and she was precipitated through a bush into the chasm
below. Something had caugiit her, however, and borne her up for a time, but ulti-
mately that, too, gave way, and allowed her to f dl to the bank. She had only a
dim recollection of being sorely tormented, with flies and other insects, swarms of
which had gathered round her as she lay for five or six hours in that dreadful
place ; and in this plight she was discovered by some visitors. A line hung over
the edge of the crag to the bank where the lady fell was found to measure 170 ft.,
the remainii.g distance to the water making the entire height of the precipice almost
200 feet. The melancholy occunence has created a gloomy sensation in Blairgowrie
and neighbourhood.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
Berberries. — J. J. Littlebourne.— For the kinds you are in search of, try
Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, Mr. Rivers, Sawbrldireworrh, Messrs. Lane and
Son, Berkhampstead, and Mr. Standish, Ascot. Your kind suggestion is fully
apprechted. We are preparing this number of Floral World on the summit of
a mountain far away from home, and have not time to send you a private reply as we
would wish. Our engagements for tlie present season are already so numerous that
we dare not add to them a single hour's work more.
H^MONY. — A. L. G.. — We remember a discussion on this subject, in which we
took part, some years ago in the pages of "Notes and Queries." Being away from
home, we cannot refer to it, but next month will endeavour to answer your question.
H. C. J.— Next month.
Forensis. — All the plants named in your list can be obtained of Messrs. E. G.
Henderson and Son, Wellington Road, St. John's Wood.
Planting on a. Bank. — Terrace may grow almost anything on the bank if
ledg s are cut. The best evergreens for such a position are hollies, phijlyreas,
cotoneasters, and lauristinus. The least suitable are aucubas and berberries, and of
course common laurel is quite unfit. Be content \^ith small stubby plants to begin
with, and plant tliem this month or next.
AiLANxni-cuLTDRE. — C. B. B. — The best experiment we have seen has not
proved commercially successful, though it has been in operation five years, and the
most careful economy has been practised. As an amusement silk growing is all
very well, but in this country it must not be thought of as a profitable industry.
Books. — CcBsar. — Deakln's " Florigrtiphla Britannica" will afford you the best
possible key to discovering the names of British plants, as besides the descriptions,
it contains good figures. The best small book of the sort is Witherlng's " British
Botany," by Macgillivray. * The " Rose Book" will afford ample information on the
formation of a rosarium, and on every method of multiplying roses.
Plants. — J. Colson. — 1, is like Siphocampylos bicolor, but from such a mite it
is impossible to determine definitely ; 2, one of the Echeverias j 3, Rhyncospermum
Jasmlniflorum.
288 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Ferns. — M. Fenn. — Yours are injured by thrip. Maintain in future a more
humid atmosphere in the house. Do not use any preparation to destroy this pest,
but grow your plants liberally, and if it does not quickly disappear, fumigate the
house Avith tobacco smoke. — E. O. — 1, Polystichum aculeatum ; 2, Lastrea spinulosa.
CnARLOCK. — Simson. — There is, of couise, no other way to rid your ground of
"that noxious weed charlock," but hoeing and hand weeding. But is it a noxious
•weed ? There are few who know its value, for it is one of the best sheep-feeding
herbs the land produces. Within a week past we made an experiment by turning
fifty sheep into a three-acre field of Swede turnips, which was like a flower-garden
with charlock. The sheep ate the charlock and did not touch tlje turnips- When
they had had two days of this fun, we turned them into another field to weed that.
By this system the sheep do all the weeding, and grow fat by the operation. They
must, of course, be turned out as soon as their weeding is finished.
Sta>'Dard "Wallflowers. — R. S. H. — Wallflowers are generally described
as biennials, but they are strictly perennials, and may be so treated as to become
huge bushes of a most ornamental character when in bloom. We have seen them
trained to walls, and reaching a height of three to four feet, and blooming every
year most profusely. None but the best of the doubles are, however, worth treating
as perennials, and a very useful form in which to grow these is as standards. We
have been accustomed for many years past to have standards of a tall-growing
double yellow variety, and of another which has richly-iron-stained blossoms on a
creamy-white ground. To grow these, cuttings should be made in the summer,
and when rooted they should be potted in light rich soil, with plenty of drainage,
and grown on fast. All the side-shoots should be pinched in, and by degrees re-
moved, a few at a time, beginning at the bottom,. and the leading shoot must be
stopped when the stem is of the height required. Bloom should not be cared for
for a couple of years ; the object should be to get first a stout stem and a good
head, then, when the head is formed, all that is necessary to promote a fine bloom,
is to pinch in the shoots once or twice in the early part of the growing season, and
then leave them to set their flower-buds. After the trees have their proper shape,
no shoots should be allowed on the stem. But if the side-growths are removed
too quickly, the stem will be weak, and want the support of a stake, whereas, if
the side-shoots are only pinched in at fia'st, and removed only one or two at a time,
progressing from the bottom upwards, the stem will swell so as to^support the
head, and render a stake unnecessary. As a matter of course, they will require to
be repotted eyery year, and the best time will be when the growth is finished in
the autumn. Then shake them out, remove some of the soil from the
roots, and repot with fresh compost, in the same pots if possible, but in
any case in pots only one size larger. They may be grown to such a size
in 48 or 32 pots that the pot will not afibrd a sutticient base to stand
safely, and increased size of pots will be required rather to enable them to stand
on their feet than for need ol more root-room. These standards should be kept all
winter in a cool greenhouse or pit ; if left out-doors, a hard frost may result in
splitting the stem from top to bottom ; and, in fact, they are not adapted for out-
door use, except in very sheltered places. But for the conservatory, and to carry in-
doors for the window or drawing-room table, they are invaluable when the heads
are full of fine blooms, which emit a most delightful fragrance.
DorBLE Clitoria terxatea. — B. jB.— This is an interesting plant, and the
most beautiful in the whole of the family to which it belongs. Among papilion-
aceous plants, double-flowering varieties are scarce, but whenever they are obtained
they are highly valued for their massiveness and imposing appearance. There is a
story told of a nobleman who paid little attention to horticulture having the beauty
of the double furze pointed out to him, when he immediately ordered fifty pound's
worth of it. In the case of the double Ciitoria we have an interesting example of
the apparent extinction of the papilionaceous form of the flower by the process of
" doubling " — the keel, banner, and other parts of the normal blossom being lost in
the process of multiplication, so that the flower has much more the semblance of a
rose than a pea. The flowers are of a rich purplish-lavender colour. It will form
a fine ornament for a conservatory trellis, or to grow on a wire balloon ; and as it
is of perennial habit, seeds sown now will produce strong plants for flowering next
year, or, if liberally treated, a moderate bloom may be obtained late in the present
season. It is to be regretted that so little attention is now paid to the culture of
conservatory climbers, and especially those of the Leguminous class, of which we
have many that are unsurpassed fjr grace and beauty.
THE FLOJIAL WORLD
AND
GARDEN GUIDE.
OCTOBER, ]867
ENGLISH PEUIT-GKOWINa.
E,UIT culture in England as compared with fruit culture
in France has been the subject of a somewhat prolix,
but nevertheless interesting, discussion in the news-
papers for some time past. The discussion arose
principally out of a panegyric by one of our ablest
horticultural writers of the Erench mode of training cordon trees.
It was thence argued that English cultivators should take cordons
in hand, and look for their reward in an increased production and a
higher quality of home-grown fruit. It is quite true, we might even
say delightfully true, that French amateurs bestow much time and
care upon their fruit-trees, and excel in their various modes of
training. As to the cordons, we see fruit-trees of all kinds subjected
to this mode of training, though it is more particularly adapted for
the pear and the peach, when trained on walls. The essential feature
of the cordon system is that the trees consist of a certain number of
long rods, crowded with fruit spurs, but quite destitute of the side
branches and ramifications which every tree will naturally form
when left to grow in its own way. The business of the cultivator
is to promote the growth of the fundamental rods or branches in
length, and to suppress all side-shoots, and, generally speaking, keep
down the growth of lateral wood. AVhen well made, a cordon tree
is like a series of knotted ropes, or if it is a simple cordon, it is like
one long rope, with fruit and leaves scattered its whole length,
a curious and an interesting object for the pride and comfort of the
cultivator.
It will be observed that the principal manipulation in cordon
training consists in pinching back the wood shoots that are sure
to appear in plenty during April, May, and June. The constant
pinching of these tends in time to their conversion into fruit spurs,
and if they are well matured by a dry warm autumn they bear fruit
abundantly. But one objection to the adoption of the system in
this country is, that we cannot depend upon having the late growths
perfectly matured, whereas the Frenchman has no doubt about it at
all. It is rarely that his better climate fails to give the finishing
VOL. TT. — NO. X. 19
290 THE FLORAL \yORLD AXD GAEDEX GUIDE.
touch to liis delicate operations in fruit-tree training. It may appear
at first thought to some of our readers that this objection is not well
founded, for they may say, if the English climate ripens the wood of
one kind of tree, will it not ripen another kind, and that irrespective
of the mode of training ? But the case turns upon this considera-
tion, that cordon trees are of necessity much more subjected to dis-
budding, green pruning, and pinching, than trees in any other form ;
that therefore they form their final growths later in the season than
trees less interfered with, and therefore require a longer, brighter,
drier autumn for the maturation of the spurs and fruit shoots which
are allowed by the cultivator to remain. It follows that cordon-
training in this country is most likely to succeed in the southern
counties, and that in any district it is much better adapted to trees
on good walls than trees in the open quarters. "U^e have no wish to
discourage the adoption of cordon trees in English gardens, but it
appears to be our duty, now that their advantages have been ex-
plained, with persuasive eloquence, to give our readers a few words
of caution as to the probable difiiculties attending the cordon system
in this somewhat uncertain clime.
jNTor should we forget another caution, which we feel assured is
not of secondary importance with persons who value time and have
to pay for labour. The cordon system entails an immensity of
trouble. A week's neglect of the trees at the time when they are in
vigorous growth will result in completely altering their figure, and
necessitate much cruel use of the knife to subdue their growth of
useless wood. The cultivator is at war with jS'ature at every step,
and if he sleeps, or forgets his work, Xature triumphs and laughs at
him. Those who enjoy much leisure, and really need more employ-
ment in the garden, may not fear the cultivation of cordon trees, but
irritable people, who soon grow weary of ''niggling, "had best not begin,
for it is pretty certain they will soon repent it. As to the practical
part of the matter, cordon-training is easy enough ; we have but to
lay in young shoots, and then suppress all side growths, save and
except such as are calculated to become bearers of fruit, as, for
example, short spurs in the case of pears, and short wiry branches
in the case of peaches.
"W^hile we have little to say in favour of the extension of cordon
practice in English gardens, we gladly testify that the production of
English-grown fruit has been much improved since pyramid and
bush trees have increased in public favour. There are few now who
plant standard trees in the certainty of having to wait the fifth part
of a century to see their fruit, and with the probability of never
iseeing it at all. A few years suffice in these times to bridge over
the space of time between planting the tree and gathering the fruit,
and this is one of the best results of grafting near the root, and
much more the result of that practice than grafting on starving
stocks. We meet with many collections of bush and pyramid fruit-
trees on quince and doucin stocks, and we cannot pronounce those
stocks to be delusions. But we meet with many still finer collections
on free stocks, and we begin to doubt if anything substantial has
been gained by the use of dwarfing stocks, for the pear and the crab-
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 291
soon become fruitful if the grafts are put on near the roots, and the
trees are periodically lifted until they acquire a fruitful condition.
At all events, we can conscientiously say that bush and pyramid trees
occasion the least amount of labour, and are likely to give the largest
return in good fruit for the space of ground they occupy, of all the
various forms of fruit-trees. And as to the stocks, it is certain that
such as are called " free," and on which the trees grow with vigour,
though less precocious than the dwarfing stocks, may nevertheless be
rendered fruitful at an early period by the practice of biennial lifting,
which not only checks excessive vigour, but favours that abundant
production of surface roots on which the production of fruit so much
depends. S. H.
THE YILLA KITCHEN- GAEDEN.— No. lY.
BY J. C. CLAEKE,
Head Gardener at Cothelston House, near Taunton.
X this and succeeding papers I propose to deal with
the cultivation of the occupants of the kitchen-garden
in alphabetical order. I shall therefore commence with
the
Aettchoke.- — Of these there are two kinds, the
Globe and Jerusalem. I shall dwell on the former first : and in the
first place I may remind the reader it is no: perfectly hardy ; it
should therefore have some amount of protection round the hearts
of the plants during winter. The best covering I have ever found
is to gather up the leaves of the plants and then to cover up the
whole of the plant with ten to twelve inches of coal-ashes. Some
cultivators place round them the same depth of soil dug out between
the plants, and some use long litter from the stable, but I prefer the
coal-ashes above either. These plants are readily increased by taking
ofi" the offsets from established plants ; or one old plant may be taken
up and divided. This is best done about the middlfe of April, the
ground should be first deeply dug and heavily manured where they
are to be planted. If this is done in the autumn previous, so much
the better, as then the frost and rain of winter, with an occasional
stirring of the surface, will render the soil in a sweet, friable condi-
tion. The young plants should be placed six feet apart each way,
and at the time of planting some fine rich soil should be put round
the roots to induce them to root freely. If cold winds prevail, place
over each plant a sea-kale pot, or some other such contrivance, just
to screen them from the wind. It will be well to remember that
they are gross feeders, and that the more liberal the culture, the
more early will be the produce. They will require water during dry
weather for at least three months after planting, and after the first
month manure water may be given at every alternate watering.
With such treatment aa above advised, if the plants are in the
292 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
first instance strong, it is possible that they may put up one or two
heads each late in the summer, hut more generally they do not do
so until the following summer. When Globe artichokes are well
grown, they are striking objects, but the majority of plants which
we see in small gardens are so stunted and starved, that people have
not the opportunity of judging of their merits as ornamental plants.
The Jerusalem Artichoke is a well-known subject, not for its
merits as a vegetable in particular, but for its usefulness as a screen
to shut out any unsightly object, which it will do effectually if
planted in a good soil. They are not particular as to soil, but they
produce the largest roots when grown in a light free loam, and some-
what shaded by a wall or fence. They should be planted in lines
two feet apart, and eighteen inches between the plants, using
moderate sized roots for planting.
AsPAEAGUS. — This should be planted in beds five feet wide, four
rows at twelve inches apart in the bed, with a two-feet alley between
each two beds. This requires liberal culture ; therefore, if the natural
soil of the garden is too stiff and cold, or too sandy, it must be
removed, and some more brought to replace it. The asparagus
delights in a free open loam, with a well-drained under surface, and
this as far as possible should be obtained. It will also do exceedingly
well in any moderately light soil, providing there is a good depth
and it is annually manured. In a cold clay soil I have used old
mortar, containing a portion of broken bricks and coarse coal-ashes,
also coarse road-sand and small chalk, with good effect. All these
ingredients assist to make a clay soil more open and porous, and
the roots of asparagus delight to ramify amongst such matter.
Besides the above, a heavy dressing of half rotten manure will be
required at the time of making the beds. The beds should be dug
out, as above stated, to the width of five feet, and twelve inches deep,
the bottom soil should then be deeply stirred up, and upon this a
thick layer of dung, and any of the above-named ingredients that
the soil may require. On this place six inches of earth, and then
stir the whole up together ; give another layer of well-rotted dung,
and the remainder of the soil on the top of that. The bed is now
ready for planting or sowing. For the ultimate success of the beds I
prefer to sow seed in drills a foot apart, and thin out to the same
distance, as seedling plants work more evenly in the soil, and there
do not occur those gaps in the beds as are almost sure to follow
when they are planted. But this necessitates that the cultivator
should wait until the fourth season after planting before he begins
cutting any grass. It is not so when two-year-old plants are used,
as then the time is reduced by one-half. Presuming that the beds
are to be planted, and that they have been prepared early in March,
I would secure the plants early in April, and then rake off about
two inches of the top soil of the beds, and spread out evenly and
regularly the plants upon the surface ; the roots must then be covered
over with some nice fine earth two inches deep. The sides of the
beds should be neatly made up, and the alleys manured and trenched
up for a crop of spring cauliflower. This operation being completed,
I must now warn the cultivator against growing upon the beds them-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND aARDEN GUIDE. 293
selves any other crop. Many make a practice of sowing lettuce and
such like subjects, and then boast of their superior quality to those
they grow in the open quarters ; but they forget that these huge
lettuce, etc., have been obtained at the expense and risk of killing
the asparagus. If any of my readers require large and superior
lettuce, let me remind them that they are to be grovrn equally as
well in tlie open quarters, if they would take the same care in pre-
paring the ground for them as they did for the asparagus. More
than half of the failures of fresh-planted asparagus beds are to be
attributed to the practice of over-cropping and too early planting.
Newly -planted beds of asparagus should be well watered at the time
of planting if the soil is dry, and this should be continued whenever
dry weather occurs, up till the end of July. My own beds I always
mulch with short grass from tlie lawn about the middle of May, and
I find this to help the plants amazingly. Keep the beds well weeded
through the summer, and do not cut down the young grass until the
middle of October. At this time give another coat of manure on the
surface of the beds, and then cover up this from the alleys between
with about six inches of fresh soil, two inches deep the first season, and
six the next. These are the greatest depths they should be buried
the first and second season respectively. Some growers plant eight
to ten inches deep the first year, and then wonder why they do not
come up. In the spring of the succeeding year gently fork up the
beds, and as summer advances, give them manure-water occasionally,
alternating this with a sprinkle of salt about every three weeks.
Keep the beds free from weeds, and if the soil is light, tread it
firmly round the plants when they have reached the height of two
feet. In the autumn cut down and manure the same as advised for
the previous year, but this time throw up the full amount of soil
from the alleys, as the plants will have now sufiicient strength to
penetrate it. I like a depth of ten inches of soil when the plants
are established. The following spring they will produce grass fit
for table, but they ought not to be cut too hard the first year. I
should consider 200 grass from a bed five feet wide, and fifty feet
long, quite as much as ought to be taken from it the first season.
AVhen cutting for table, all the small weakly grass should also be
cut, up to the time that cutting is discontinued, and this ought not
to be later than the 20th of June. All the above remarks of the
management of planted beds are also applicable to the management
of those sown with seed. Some care is required in cutting asparagus
for use, otherwise many rising heads just under the surface are
injured. It is best to search out those it is intended to cut a little
below the surface. A properly made asparagus-knife is the best
instrument for the purpose.
294
THE AURICITLA.
BT JOHN "WALSH.
Chapter TV. — Wintering the Plants in Feames.
|AEIOUS people have various ways, and I find that there are
many little diiFerences of management amongst auricula
growers in respect of the treatment of the plants during
winter. First, however, let me speak of the frames. I
am familiar with all the best collections of auriculas in
the country, and I can safely say that common garden-frames are
employed in this cultivation almost universally, specially prepared
frames being most rarely met with. The far-famed Eichard Headly,
Esq., of Stapleford, keeps the whole of his plants in common frames,
on beds of coal-ashes, close beside a fence of quick. The celebrated
James Butcher, of Camberwell, uses common frames, fitted with
deal shelves, on which the pots stand all the winter : but in summer
the shelves are taken out and the pots are stood on the bed of
earth within the frame, and at the same time bars of wood are nailed
across back and front, on which the lights rest, to allow them to be
kept above the plants constantly to screen them from " blacks,"
while at the same time there is an aperture about two inches deep,
to keep up a constant circulation of air. Mr. Charles Turner, of
Slough, the best cultivator in the country, and the largest trader of
stock, keeps his plants in frames made on purpose. They are of the
usual width and length, but stand high up from the ground, say
about three feet at back, and two feet in front, and they are filled
to within nine inches or so of the glass, with a solid bed of clean
coal-ashes. On this bed the pots stand very near the glass. To
afibrd a constant circulation of air a narrow panel of about four
inches in width is cut out of the front of the frame, and therefore if
the lights are drawn down an inch or two, there is a regular current
of air from front to back, while the plants are still sheltered from
rain and dust.
It will be understood from these three examples that the pos-
sessor of a few choice auriculas need not put himself to any serious
trouble or outlay in providing for their preservation during winter.
Find as many frames as needful ; rig them up on beds of coal-ashes
one or two feet (or more) above the surface of the soil, to insure
dryness, let the situation be east, west, or north, but not south on
any account, and if possible secure shelter at some little distance on
the northern side, to screen the frames from cutting winds. Every
precaution known against vermin must be adopted, the place and its
surroundings must be clean, and in the way of preparation that is
all that is needed.
At this time of year, auriculas are usually infested with green-
fly, and the treatment for which should consist of mechaiiical means
only. I strongly object to smoke, and to all nostrums, as injurious
to the plants. Suppose I find my plants now infested with fly, I
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 295
take a seat beside the frame with a rather large and very soft camers-
hair pencil in my hand, and a little air in my chest. To be sure,
there's always air in my chest, but now I want it as a mechanical
agent to cleanse the plants, and so I draw myself up, and inflate
my lungs, as I hold up a plant and search through it with my eye to
determine if it is lousy. With a good "puff" from my own pair of
bellows — the pair Nature presented me on my birth-day — I send them
flying against their will, and then I ply the pencil to remove any that
still stick fast after such a bronchial tornado. It makes an agreeable
hour's work to blow and brush a lot of auriculas in this way, and
gives one a grand appetite for whatever meal is to follow. I have
no doubt whatever, if we could keep some one in whom there were
signs of consumption so employed, with a little walking for a change
of exercise, the whole constitution would be changed for the better,
and the disease nipped in the bud, or we may say blown away. The
next best method to pufiing the fly away with the breath is to
employ a common bellows, but the human bellows is the best.
Jt must always be borne in mind that the auricula is one of the
hardiest plants in cultivation. It will not be likely to sufter by
frost in winter, but damp is death to it. Prom this time till spring
returns, the cultivator must be extremely cautious in respect of
giving water, for if slopped about under and over the pots, mischief
will result ; if poured carelessly over the leaves, canker will appear.
On the other hand, they must never go quite dry, for that is nearly
as bad as being constantly wet. Hit the happy medium, and above
air things treat them as hardy plants, for which protection from
snow, rain, and mist, is of much more importance than protection
from mild frost, or from a genial atmosphere, at any time. From
now till frost comes, keep the lights oft", unless you live in a very
smoky atmosphere, in which case the lights must be kept always over
them, but with a current of air through ; but put on the lights
when there is any expectation of snow or heavy rain, and in respect
of frost, shield them from it as perfectly as possible without resorting
to any coddling process. I am warned by the Editor that this series
on the auricula must be completed within the year, therefore I will
endeavour in two more papers to say all I have to say about it, and
then take up some other favourite. My principal object in this
paper has been to show that those who have entered upon auricula
growing through the persuasions of the Floral AYokld, need not
go to the expense of having frames made expressly for keeping their
plants during the winter. But should any of our readers wish to
have the most proper kind of auricula-frames ever seen or heard of,
they may find a model for their construction at page 300 of Hibberd'a
" Garden Favourites."
296
A GLANCE AT THE EOSEEY.
BY W. 1). PEIOB, OF CLAPTON.
jHE rose season is virtually over for this year. Morning
frosts and chilly nights will speedily nip up the linger-
ing blossoms, and clothe the foliage with the leprous
foliage of mildew, blighting our favourites, so that
tliey are no longer beautiful, and suggesting the neces-
sity for their falling into a state of rest, the better to resist the
inclemencies of winter. It is by no means a bad plan, where plants
are found in the autumn in too succulent and sappy a state of
growth, to give the soil about their roots a gentle heave up with a
garden fork, loosening without damaging the fibres, and by means of
such a delicate check to prevent further untimely development. Let
rosarians see to this betimes. The havoc caused by the last winter
was owing not so much to its severity, as to the condition in which
it found the plants, full of sap, and unripened by the autumnal
weather. Such a condition of plants invites destruction, unless effi-
cient protection can be given against " killing frosts " and '' unkind
winds."
A good deal of skill and thoughtful consideration are requisite to
the proper arrangement and formation of a rosery, and there are few
such places the capabilities of which are developed to the full extent.
It is not sufficient for the owners of a beautiful space, a suitable
locality, and a full purse, to order dozens of fine plants of different
varieties, sizes, and kinds, and stick them in anywhere and anyhow,
like dibbling scarlet beans, but consideration should be given to
appropriate and elegant combinations. Excursions should be made
as wide as possible from the beaten tracks, provided such innovations
are conceived in correct taste. The man who invents a meritorious
novelty, invents a new pleasure, and suggests further improvements
to those engaged in similar pursuits, deserves the approbation of
his fellows, whatever the line may be. This should be borne in
mind in every novel experiment, even in the garden.
In every portion of the floral distribution of a garden, two pri-
mary objects are required — we want as many blooms of an}^ specific
flower as we can obtain, and we want them displayed in the manner
most gratifying to the eye, which will be in the most appropriate
situations, amidst the most becoming surroundings. It is sur-
prising what a wide range of adaptability for these purposes exists
in almost every kind of flower, especially in the rose, respecting
which let us glance at a few phases of its application. We may
dismiss it at once in its promiscuous situation in the borders as an
individual ornament, to consider it in its proper and distinctive loca-
tion in the rosery, where its combinations should be the result of the
most consummate thought, and where its beauties should be deve-
loped to the greatest advantage. "Wherever space will allow its
construction, there should be a rosery, and it should be isolated
from the other parts of a garden sufficiently to form a prominent
feature in itself. Every rosery should be approached through some
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 297
description of archway or avenue, upon entering which the whole
coup d'ceil of the fairy and fragrant region should present itself to
the view. It should be surrounded by shrubs and trees beyond,
suggesting the idea of unexplored and still more enchanting glades.
Nor is a fountain falling into a lily-bordered basin an inappropriate
centre for a rosery ; nor should trellised arbours, overrun with fra-
grant blooms, be wanting to the place, nor nestling temple, if not
too pretentious. Plenty of well-kept turf, too, should abound on
every side. The character of the rosery also may be very diverse —
rural and luxuriant, Italian and precise ; but whatever arrangement
may be carried out, to speak artistically, it must always be in good
keeping.
Beds for the cultivation of roses may be of numerous forms,
either sunk in panels amidst grass, or raised above the surrounding
level, in framework of burrs or clinkers from the brickfield, sur-
faced with rock-plants and mosses, the variegated periwinkle, and
other trailers ; or they may be constructed at the summit of sloping
banks of turf. In this situation they may be pegged down, or trained
short and thick against a low wire at the back, forming a beautiful
separating line or hedge where required. Slightly-raised beds are
advantageously ; employed for the purpose of pegging down. Kam-
pant and rambling kinds, which throw out long shoots, are the best
fitted for this method of training, which has the additional merit of
increasing the cultivator's stock of plants by a species of layering
process, almost all the branches rooting where pegged into the soil.
Pincushion beds are usually too stifl" and formal to satisfy the artistic
eye ; but there are some situations in which they may be tolerated,
it not approved. In such, however, every art should be used to
break up their onop-stich appearance, by training them umbrella
fashion, even to the ground, converting them into fairy fountains of
flowers, and some pretty dwarf edging, such as Cerastium tomento-
sum, should define and finish the outline of the bed. Talking of
fountains of flowers, why should we not' attempt a rosy cataract,
training the plants doiumvards, over walls or banks, where, for
instance, the earth on one side is high and the other low y There are
abundant situations where such a mode of dealing with our favourites
is quite practicable, and where the eftect would be as delightful as
novel.
To make a rose pyramid the soil should be specially prepared of
rich feeding power, capable of sustaining the inevitable exhaustion
of its nutritious qualities by the number of plants requisite to pro-
duce an eftect. In this style of growing the rose, two feet of sur-
face room is the most that ought to be allowed to each plant, so that
the combined heads may produce an abundant mass of foliage
gaily interspersed with blooms. If a rose pyramid be desired, some
extra vigorous variety should be selected, such as Jaune Desprez or
Gloire de Dijon, budded upon a strong, straight stem, six or seven
feet high, well supplied with robust shoots on all sides from the
work ; this is to form the centre of the structure. From this the
plants are to decrease in height row by row, contrasting colour with
judgment, and carefully adjusting habit to secure uniformity of
298 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
growth. Upright growing kinds, however beautiful and perfect, are
not suited to this manner of cultivation. Crescents and banks of
graduated roses require to be formed on similar principles.
There are a goodly number of fine roses excellently adapted to
decorate vases, or to be utilized in the " plunging system," or fur-
nishing by plants in pots, so deservedly popular now-a- days. If any
connoisseur of floral effects desires to see the extent to which this
valuable method of garden ornamentation can be carried, he should
seek the assistance of some modern Asmodeus, and inspect a
certain portion of the domain of our able Editor, where changes take
place in the hours of darkness, or at least when ordinary mortals are
asleep, rivalling in magical effects, on a small scale, the transforma-
tions recorded in the Arabian j^ights. For the above application
such varieties only are adapted as possess a bushy, close-growing
habit, joined to that of being constantly and profusely in bloom.
There are no more unsightly objects than pot roses usually are at
exhibitions, tied out in unnatural directions to huge stakes, rendering
that which should be graceful and natural constrained and repulsive,
like the huge cuirass-like fabrics which enclosed the fair forms of our
ancestresses in the Tudor times. It may be also laid down as a
canon in the treatment of climbing or rambling roses, that all which
are not perpetuals should have continuous bloomers plentifully dis-
persed at their base, to fill up the blank period when they are out of
flower, and distract attention from the unlovely spectacle of dry
leaves, and spectral branches, and backgrounds uncovered, which were
designed to be concealed.
A TEW GOOD 310SES TOK PEGaiNG DOW^:S".
Common China : — Fabvier, Cramoisie Superieure, Mrs. Bosan-
quet.
Bourhons : — Armosa, Madame Desprez, Bouquet de Flore,
Queen, Souvenir de la Malmaison.
Syhrid Ferpetuals : — Admiral Nelson, Baronne Prevost, Beauty
of "Waltham, General Jacqueminot, Jean Goujon, Jules Margottin,
Le Rhone, La Brillante, Duchesse de Morny, Madame de Cambaceres,
Mrs. Rivers, Triomphe des Beaux Arts.
Noisette Perpetimls : — Louise Darzins, Lady Emily Peel, Madame
Alfred de Bougement, Pavilion de Pregny.
Teas : — Bougere, Grloire de Dijon, Devoniensis, Madame Viller-
moz, Narcisse, Madame Falcot, Sombreuil, Souvenir d'un Ami.
Noisette : — Cloth of Gold, Aimee Vibert, Marechal iS"iel, Jean
d'Arc, Jaune Desprez.
A FEW EXCELLENT CLIMBERS.
Ruga, Amadis, Felicite Perpetue, Blairii No. 2 (not very high),
Admiral Nelson, Glory of Waltham, Russelliana, Triomphe des
Beaux Arts (where the climate will suit), Gloire de Dijon, Maria
Leonida, Aimee Vibert scandens. Climbing Devoniensis, Ophirie, La
Biche, Lamarque, Jaune Desprez, Solfaterre, Homere, Bougere.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 299
Almost any of the strong- growing teas, where the climate will admit
of their safety iu the winter, or where protection can be conveniently
applied.
SOME VAEIETIES FOR PYRAMIDS.
Gloire de Dijon, Jaune Desprez, Ophirie, as centres ; Achilla
Gonod, Jules Margottin, Senateur Vaisse, G-eneral Jacqueminot,
John Hopper (rather too upright), Charles Lefebvre, Madame
Charles Wood, La Duchesse de Morny, Comte de Kanteuil,
Baroane Prevost, Madame Knorr, Beauty of Waltham, Madame
Victor Verdier, E. Lacharme, Marguerite de St. Amaud. It will
be observed the absence of white and its various tints. There is
absolutely none of first-rate merit worth associating with the above,
except those of upright habit, and consequently unsuited for the
purpose. IMadame A. de Rougemont is perhaps the best.
Eor those who wish selections of roses for other purposes than
these, are there not the "Rose Book," the pages of this serial, and
the " Gardener's Magazine," all of which are reliable, and not, as is
too frequently the case, a mere '"hotch-potch" from the nursery-
men's catalogues, by writers v^ho are paper florists, trading upon the
experience and brains of others ; and will there not shortly be the
" Garden Oracle," the which, if any professed lover of flowers buy
not, he is an impostor, deserving stones in his Christmas pudding,
and boiled slugs in his vegetables ?
THE COLOHES OF TREES IX AUTHMjS'.
RAMBLE through a wood, or even a glance over a few
well-planted gardens, will teach the amateur gardener a
lesson now of the value of such trees and shrubs as at
this season acquire distinctive colours. As deciduous
trees will throw their leaves off", the more we can get
out of them in the way of colour the better ; and there happen to
be several subjects among our hardiest and cheapest trees and shrubs
that die gloriously, like the dolphin, and justify that^ sublime pas-
sage in Tennyson's "In Memoriam," where he speaks of
• Autumn lajing here and there
A fiery finger on the leaves."
Though we have an immense variety of trees and shrubs with varie-
gated leaves, and many with foliage uniformly red or purple, many
of these are now unattractive, while many that have worn a sober
garb since they first came into leaf are now lighted with rich
amber, golden, and crimson hues, and have a richer effect because of
the subdued light, the frequent cloudiness of the atmosphere, and
the general scarcity of flowers. It is very important for rendering
300 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
a garden attractive at all seasons that there sliould be a good sprin-
kling in the plantations of trees that give to the autumn landscape
broad dashes of colour, so that though the rain may put a stop to
walking out, the view from the windows w^ill be still cheerful.
There are, indeed, few effects in rural colouring to equal such masses
of orange and russet as we occasionally see in well- wooded coun-
tries, where against a dark background of fir, with the black outlines
of heathy hills to give strong contrast, we see great breadths of elm,
chesnut, maple, and alder, in their several strong shades, rivalling
the grandest of sunsets, and by their very colours suggesting that
there will be found a delicious order among their falling leaves.
Though in gardens our effects must be all on a smaller scale, they may,
nevertheless, be made still richer in their way ; for the glories of a
country full of hedgerow elms, and Spanish chesnuts, and oak woods,
delight quite as much because of the magnitude of the features
which give the scenery its character, and there are no British forest
trees capable of rivalling, in their individual forms and colours, some
of the choice subjects cultivated in shrubberies and gardens. Take,
for a familiar example, the common Virginian creeper, Ampelopsis
liederacea, and what can surpass the splendour of its perishing leaves
at the present time, where it covers the whole side of an old man-
sion with a sheet of fire ? Where skilfully managed, so as to be
trained over ivy without cliolcing it, the Yirginian creeper is one of
the grandest wall plants we possess, and the only skill required to
manage it with ivy is to cut it back severely as soon as the leaves
are down, leaving a few strong, long rods at intervals of about four
feet, the growth from which will be sufiicient to make a brilliant dis-
play in autumn, but not sufiicient to prevent a free growth of the
ivy. Amongst our common shrubs, we have nearly as brilliant a
display now in the common sumach, Rhus typhina, which is at all
seasons a fine subject for conspicuous positions where moderate
growth only is required, and remarkably eff"ective when planted in
large masses. When fully exposed to the sunshine, on a tolerably
dry soil, the foliage of this tree dies ofi" a brilliant red, and the tufts
of feathery flowers frequently remain all the winter through. The
cockspur thorn, 3Iespilus crus-galli, is now brilliantly coloured, the
large-lobed leaves having changed from a cheerful green to a bright
amber, which is again changing to deep red, in which state they will
end their career. In our rambles lately we have been much struck
with the autumnal beauty of the common dogwood, Corwz^s sanguinea,
which dies off a rich reddish-purple, which, when illuminated by the
setting sun, has a fine effect in the midst of darker greens, and
ruddy and russety hues. There are few subjects more suitable for
approaches and the fronts of mixed plantations than the scarlet oak,
Quercus coccinea, which is now flame-like in its glory ; the champion
oak, Q. rtcbra, which dies off a rich blood-red, less attractive than the
last, and yet, nevertheless, superb. The scarlet maple, Acei^ ruhrum,
is beautiful at all seasons, except in the dead of winter, but is now
at its best. Less distinctive, but still beautiful in their winter dress,
and invaluable for variety, are the tulip tree, Ziriodendron tulipifera;
the Norway maple, Acer platanoides ; the sugar maple, A. saccharinwn;
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 301
the ash, Fraxlnus e:ccelsior ; the Venetian sumach, Rhus cotinus ; the
elegant Maidenhair tree,* SaUsbitrid adiantifolia ; and the Kolreu-
teria, K. paniculata, which give several shades of amber, yellow, and
orange, as their leaves decay.
These are but a few wliich might be enumerated ; but they are
such as occur to us as we look out of our study window, and note
the beauty of the autumn colours, and call to mind some of the
woodland scenes amid which we have been rusticating of late. But
in looking at gardens, and thinking of forest trees, the idea occurs to
us that amateur gardeners are deterred from planting ornamental
trees in quantity because of the great size they usually attain, and
the many years that must elapse ere they acquire their true charac-
ters. But there is a way of turning to account in a garden or shrub-
bery any deciduous tree, however gigantic its habit of growth, pro-
vided its foliage or flowers are such as would render it an attractive
object, if it could be kept in a comparatively small state. This is
easily done, not by lopping and pruning in the ordinary way, which
makes many trees so ugly that it is a pain to behold them, but by
compelling them to grow bush-fashion. Suppose a border in which
flowers rarely come to perfection, it would be strange if forest trees
would not thrive there. Plant a lot of planes, maples, sumachs,
oaks, beeches, and other of the subjects enumerated above ; let them
grow as they please one season, to get their roots established, and
the next winter cut them all down to within three feet of the ground,
or cut only such as have run up in a spare manner, and leave sumachs
and other dwarf and shrubby subjects untouched. The next spring
the stumps will throw up a number of strong shoots, and produce
leaves of an enormous size ; and if the selecting and grouping are
skilfully done, the efiect will far surpass any ordinary shrubbery
scenes. When we advise the amateur to plant trees and shrubs
that may contribute to prolong the attractions of the garden beyond
the season of summer flowers, we mean that they are to be planted
properly. It would be unfair to speak in these terms were it not
lamentably a fact that a large proportion of the trees supplied from
the nurseries are simply stuck in holes by the purchasers, and, in a
proper horticultural sense, are not planted at all. If trees are
planted on the hypothesis that they will live, and beautify the spot
they occupy, the ground ought to be first deeply trenched, well
manured, if at all poor through frequent cropping, and the trees
should be planted when the soil is comparatively dry, and the roots
carefully spread out, and covered with dry, crumbly soil. Trees
planted to be cut down in order to produce rich screens of foliage,
should be liberally manured, and after the autumn pruning the
ground should be mulched with rotten manure. A flue frontage to
a dwarf plantation may be made by planting such things as Rihessan-
guineum^ Spirea prunifolia, Fersian Lilacs, Laburnums, Weigelias,
ForsytldaSy and intermixing with them a few hardy herbaceous
plants. S. H.
* There is a fine Bpecimen of Salisburia, the finest; perhaps, near London, in
the nursery of Me-srs. Cutbush, of Highgate.
802
EXTENSO GRAPE VINES.
fHE horticultural world has been for some months past
agitated by the discussion of the question, whether
grape vines under glass should be closely pruned, and
restricted to one or two rods each, or allowed to roam
far and wide, as is the nature of the vine to do ? In
other words, the question is, whether it is most profitable and satis-
factory to the cultivator to plant in a house as many vines as there
are rafters, or to plant one or two, and allow them to extend over the
whole of the space to be covered ? It is a question of gigantic
versus miniature vines, and there is much more in it than many good
grape-growers are willing to concede. The customary way of planting
a house of vines is to apportion a plant to every rafter, and to keep
them to that. The laterals are pinched back, and in winter are
pruned back, close to the rod, on the system called " close spur
pruning." Eor some years these vines give fine bunches in moderate
plenty; but in many instances it has been found that the health of
the restricted vines declines, and the bunches become fewer and of
inferior quality. On the other hand, it is found that vines allowed
to extend over large "spaces improve in health and productiveness,
and in the quality of their produce, as they advance in age. Here
is the gist of the discussion, the point on which it turns to be of
any interest and any use. It is true that there are'many vineries where
restricted vines are still in good health after many years of abundant
production, and there may be many extended vines that are in a
poor condition and quite decrepit. But after all that has been said,
the balance of evidence is in favour of extension, and this, we need
scarcely, point out, is in keeping with the teachings of Nature. "We
see the vine, when allowed to grow wild, attaining to enormous
dimensions, throwing its long arms about in all directions, and send-
ing its roots, with immense power of penetration, amongst the
hardest rocks in search of food. - So also such few examples of
great vines under glass as are known to English horticulturists aff'ord
abundant evidence that for the health and fruitfulness of the grape
vine liberty to roam far and wide is an essential condition. All that
we hear of shanking, mildew, badly-coloured berries, leaves ruined
by red spider, and a dozen other dreadful ailments, are invariably
found in connection with restricted vines ; and we may reasonably
infer that a plant naturally so vigorous and rampant in growth should
become subject to disease when arrested at every point in its tendency
to free development. In case any reader should be curious to know
what is meant by " extension," we will cite the famous vine at
Einchley which Mr. Kay planted, and which Mr. Osborne now
manages so well. This vine is a Black Hamburgh. It was planted in
1855 in a house eighty- nine feet long, sixteen feet wide, and nine feet
six inches high to the apex. The roots are all outside in a border
eighty-nine feet in length, by fifteen feet broad. The vine is trained
with a leading stem from the centre of the north side wall up to the
" 7-y ^THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 303
apex, and down to the south wall, for the house runs east and west.
From this main stem five laterals are trained towards each end of the
house — one at the apex, the others equidistant between the apex and
the walls. Mr. Thomson, in the new edition of his admirable trea-
tise on the Grape Vine, says, " The last time I saw it was in 1864,
when it had a full crop of excellent grapes, weighing, as I have since
learned, four hundred and seventy-six pounds, and in 1866 it had a
crop of three hundred bunches, some of them weighing five pounds
each. It took seven years to furnish the house with bearing wood.
The girth of the stem where it enters the house is, at this date
(May, 1867), fourteen inches."
The question may arise with those who contemplate the planting
of vineries, how to bridge over the space of time required for the
filling up of the house by one vine? This is easy enough, and there
are several ways of doing it. The simplest method that occurs to us
at this moment would be as follows : — Suppose the house to be a span
running east and west. "We should form on the south side a long
border of a rather poor nature, and consisting in great part of sandy
loam, with an admixture of broken bricks and two-inch bones. This
would be the border for the permanent vine, which we would carry
into the house in the centre, with a view to train it right and left,
and thus by degrees fill the whole house with it. On the oppo-
site side we would make a narrow, shallow border of very light, rich
soil, and in this we would plant sufficient vines to furnish every
rafter at once with a fruiting rod. As the permanent vine could be
extended, we should remove these temporary ones, and in the course
of a few years they would all be gone, and we should have the bor-
ders for other purposes. In a house running north and south, it
would scarcely matter on which side the permanent border was placed.
A writer in a contemporary, treating upon this subject, says : —
'• There is no reason that, a house should remain partly unstocked
until one vine fills it. We say, plant each rafter — in duplicate if
you please ; but if one, three, or six vines will, by allowing them to
develop themselves, adjust the balance of force better than twelve or
eighteen smaller plants crowded together, then we say, let Mature
assert her prerogative, and let us acc:pt the superior results which
she offers. In planting with a view to the cumulative system, fix the
sites for the one or more vines which are intended ultimately to
occupy the house, filling in with secondary plants, and let it be a rule
that the permanent vines shall not be over-cropped, and that the
secondary ones shall be made quite subservient to the others. To
illustrate what we mean, it may be mentioned that in a vinery planted
last season with thirty-two vines, we intend to reduce the number
ultimately to eight, and it will be done in this manner. The vines,
now standing in line, will be reduced to groups of four plants. Prom
one of the two centre points in each group a branch will be carried
this season, and be inarched upon the other, and that completed, two
other shoots will be carried to fill the space of the outside vines. In
this manner the force of two sets of roots will be retained to support
one vine, as we anticipate, with corresponding success. When the
late Sir J. Paxton first went to Chatsworth, he planted duplicate
3(M THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
vines in a lon^ range of vineries, with the intention, as he explained
at the time, of inarching the two together ; but whether he did so or
not, we do not knoW." It must be understood that there is nothing
new in the idea of extending a vine far beyond the limits of a single
rafter. If there be anything novel in the case before us, it is in the
excess to which the restrictive system has been carried ; and this pro-
bably is the result of the participation of grape-growers in the spirit
of hurry with which everything is done in modern times. Sooner than
wait for one good healthy vine, they prefer a number giving fruit
at once, but unable (in many cases) to stand on their legs for a few
years together. To sum up this brief paper, we may enumerate the
advantages of extension to be — 1. Improved health and vigour of the
vine. 2. Increased production. 3. Berries constantly improving in
flavour, the best-flavoured grapes being the product of old vines.
4. Better colour. 5. Less watchfulness required as to stopping,
pruning, and training ; for if a large vine goes a little wild, there is
no harm done, but on the vine-to-a-rafter system there must be inces-
sant and almost painful attention. 6. Less care required as to the
border, as the roots can go where they like, and are almost sure to
go where it is best for them. 7. Insect pests become almost un-
known ; for, as in the case of plants of all kinds, //'ee growth is
antagonistic to disease and the lodgment of parasites. 8. Earlier
ripening. 9. The building of a large house for a vine may be accom-
plished by instalments, as the vine will not want the whole at once ;
therefore the plan may be determined on, and the vine may be
planted, and a half or a third (or less) of the ultimate length of the
house may be completed as required.
In conclusion, it seems only proper to remark that the arguments
for extension of grape vines may be applied to all other fruit trees,
and especially peaches, nectarines, apricots, pears, and cherries, which
are usually grown on walls, and too frequently cruelly restricted in
dimensions. S. H.
THE BEST STEAWBEERIES.
iO classify a list now, we should look more to the pro-
longing of the season, the quality and size of berry, to
the habit and hardiness of the plant, to its flowering
properties, and how they would be aff*ected by sudden
vicissitudes, than to the mere colour of the berry. In
endeavouring to cater towards that end, cross-breeders have sunk
that little bit of technical colour distinction, and if black, and red,
and white get mixed together by natural interfusion, like so many
colours on tbe palette of an artist, no matter. It is no advantage to
an amateur grower, and very little indeed, to our great gardeners, to
grow a numerous family. Numbers of varieties are often tantalizing,
being of little practical use to most growers, and only admissible
where a thorough system of testing is organized. To test straw-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 305
berries well, tbey should be grown on an exposed quarter of ground,
well trenched and manured, and not on those little narrow wall-
borders, which often neither present surface nor subsoil suffi-
cient for a fair test to be taken ; and yet we often hear both amateurs
and gardeners, upon the f:\ith of incomplete, partial, and therefore
anything but satisfactory evidence, calling: out loudly either for this
or against that sort. No plant repays first-rate cultivation better
than the strawberry ; and if any of our readers doubt it, pray, first
opportunity, ask any of the great market gardeners around London,
and they will tell them of the advantage of deep tillage and good
manure.
All thinp^s considered, we must still give place to two of our oldest
favourites, Keen's Seedling and British Queen. The former is in-
valuable as a grower, a bearer, and a general fruit for the great list
of those who possess cottage and villa gardens. The latter is a little
more tender, requires a good climate, and, if it can be had, a better
loamy soil, incorporated with grit. If that be come-at-able, it is a
noble sort, having all the qualities to be desired in this kind of fruit
but colour. Under the best culture it is deficient in this point, and
although it now has a few rivals, such, for example, as John Powell
and Crimson Queen, we would not displace it from its high position.
In some localities this latter may be had equal in flavour to British
Queen, but not generally so ; it undoubtedly is its equal in size, and
its superior in point of colour.
President is a noble fruit, fine in form, excellent in colour, very
free and hardy, and will always rank high in point of appearance.
It does not possess the flavour of Oscar or Sir Harry, but it is one,
notwithstanding, that ought to be generally grown. Sir Harrj has
been much abused, and Mr. Underhill, if he sent out a spurious
variety along with it, has something to answer for. The true variety
is of very hardy constitution, withstanding the cold of May better
than most of its compeers, and is a good average cropper, with ber-
ries of full average size and of very good flavour. The Lady has
not been sufiiciently tried, but we doubt, from our experience of it,
if it is a match for Sir Harry. Marguerite is a very desirable sort —
a very excellent forcer, and a good, free bearer — when dished looks
tempting, and when tried is not disappointing to even critical palates.
Sir Joseph Paxton is also first-rate, somewhat after the character of
President, but not so large. Dr. Hogg is very much allied to Crim-
son Queen, possessing a most excellent flavour. If there be a suffi-
cient distinction, which another year's growth will sufficiently prove,
it will be one of the best of modern introductions. La Constanta
comes generally good, is a very late sort, and yet ofi'ers to be a good
forcer. Its habit is one of the best, and might be looked upon as a
model in that respect, being bushy and dwarf, yielding large, fine-
coloured, and finely-formed fruit in abundance. In some of the
colder localities the bloom was partially destroyed under the influence
of a by no means auspicious spring and opening summer; but we
look upon this in an ordinary season with great confidence.
As a preserving strawberry. Black Prince has been often used ;
but we have now a tar better one in Ingram's Prince of Wales. It
VOL II. — NO. X. 20
306 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
shows a moderately-sized berrv of the best colour, and possesses a
fine piquant flavour. It is an object with those well up in preserving
this fine fruit to keep the berries entire, and if they can be had as
nearly uniform in size as possible, so much the better. No preserve
is more difiicult to make to satisfy the eye and the palate than this ;
and the first-class housekeeper prides herself in these two things —
preserving them to appear whole, and of a rich, ruby, transparent
colour.
Such are the names of the principal varieties we recommend for
general cultivation. With them, properly cultivated, no one, neither
cottager nor lord, need care for more, although we would not reject
either the Hautbois or the alpines when a little variety in flavour,
colour, and size, is desiderated. Faemee.
THE SEjN'SITIYE PLANT.
N its native country (Brazil) this singular plant, Acacia
mimosa, grows to the height of seven or eight feet,
and is armed with short recurved thorns ; the leaves
grow upon long footstalks, which are prickly, each sus-
taining two pair of wings. Eromthe place where these
are inserted come out small branches, having three or four globular
heads of pale purplish flowers coming out from ^the side on short
peduncles. " Naturalists," says Dr. Darwin, "have not explained the
immediate cause of the collapsing of the sensitive plant ; the leaves
meet and close in the night, during the sleep of the plant, or when
exposed to too much cold in the daytime, in the same manner as
when they are a fleeted by external violence, folding their upper sur-
faces together, and in part over each other, like scales or tiles, so as
to expose as little of the upper surface as may be to the air. Many
of the pinnate acacias close also at night, but are not otherwise sen-
sitive, and do not indeed collapse quite so far, for when touched in
the night, during their sleep, they fall still farther, especially when
touched on the footstalks between the stem and the leaflets, which
seem to be their most sensitive or irritable part. Now, as their
situation after being exposed to external violence resembles their
sleep, but with a greater degree of collapse, may it not be owing to a
numbness or paralysis consequent on too violent irritation, like the
fainting of animals from pain or fatigue ? A sensitive plant being
kept in a dark room till some hours after daybreak, its leaves and leaf-
stalks were collapsed as in its most profound sleep, and on exposing it
to the light, above twenty minutes passed before the ■ plant was
thoroughly awake and had expanded itself. During the night the
upper surface of the leaves are appressed. This would seem to show
that the office of this surface of the leaf was to expose the fluids of
the plant to the light as well as to the air.
I have kept it in the dark and unexpanded during the entire day.
Although easy grown, and required to be treated simply as a ten-
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 307
(ler annual, there is no plant we grow requiring so little trouble, that
excites such a lively interest, and yet is cultivated by so few people,
as this sensitive plant. Dr. Darwin thus describes it prettily in
verse : —
" Weak with nice sense, the chaste Mimosa stands,
From each rude touch withdraws her timid hands ;
Oft as Hght clouds o'erpass the summer glade,
Alarmer^, she trembles at the moving shade,
And feels alive through all her tender form
The whisper'd murmurs of the gathering storm.
Shuts her sweet eyelids to the approaching night,
And hails with freshen'd charms the rising light.'
E. S.
sxoAYDEOPS o:n" geass lawns.
N order to grow the Snowdrop successfully, so as to
enable it to retain its place undisturbed for a lonoj series
of years, insert the roots into grass lawns. By this
method they are completely out of the way of receiving
injury — and in no other situation could they be put
with more telling eifect while in bloom — the roots better cared for,
and less liable to rot during their nine months of apparently dormant
condition. If this system were more generally adopted, the flowers
might be enjoyed for seven or eight weeks, according to the weather
and the distance the roots were inserted into the earth. The method
of procedure is to dibble holes into the grass from 12 to 18 or 20
inches apart, according to the extent of the lawn to be planted, and
at depths varying from 4 to 6 inches, and to drop one, or sometimes
two roots into each hole, the small plots in front of villa residences
looking best when they are placed at the lesser distance apart.
Snowdrops might also be arranged round plant clumps when cut
in grass, keeping them at a uniform distance from the edge all
round, say one row within a foot of the edge at 4 inches in depth,
and another a foot or so apart at 6 inches in depth. By this method
the shallow-planted bulbs will flower first, and the deeper ones after-
wards, thus securing a longer succession of them. Monograms,
crests, and coronets, also figures of every description, may be repre-
sented on the grass by dibbling the roots in an outline of the form
required. As the season advances the leaves decay, and nothing is
to be seen of them when the first cutting of the grass takes place.
To regulate any arrangement for having them in circular lines, or to
represent letters or figures, a small piece of wood may be placed
across the dibble at 4 or 6 inches from the bottom, so as to secure a
uniform deptli of hole while inserting it in the ground ; but for all
lawn purposes irregular depths will be preferable, in order to secure
a succession.
oOS
SHErBS AXD FLOWEES ^HICH THEIVE TXDEE
THE DEIP OF TEEE3.
IS many of our readers are likely to take an interest in
these, we enumerate a few, and shall be much obliged
to anybody who will add to them. Japanese Berberises,
Philadelphuses. Hollies. Comusalba, sanguinea, Cory-
lus Avellana, Daphne Mezereum. Euonymus japonicus,
Hvpericum hircinum, Androssemum, and calycinum, Lonicera tar-
tarica and Xylosteum, Mespilus germanica, Eosa arrensis, Eubus
odoratus, Sambucus nigra and racemosa, Spirsea sorbifolia, Sym-
phorlearpns racemosus, Aucubas in variety, Buxus sempervirens,
Daphne Laureola, Viburnum Tinus, Euscus racemosus. The Ivies,
the Privet, and several of its newer varieties, especially the oval-
leaved one, and also the Japanese Privet.
Of rough-growing herbaceous plants c-uited for covering the
ground in summer, the followiDg are good: Hypericum hirsutum,
Sambucus Ebulus, Saponaria officinalis, Spiraea auruncus, Yicia
sylvatiea, Tinea major and its varieties. Y. minor and its varieties ;
the Pampas Grass, Sand Lyme Grass, and Eibbon Gra?3 (three
varieties) : Carex pendula, "Willow Herb, Perennial Sunflowers
(double and single}, Phytolacca decandria, Siberian Cow Parsnip,
Acanthus mollis, Asclepias syriaca, Asperula odorata. Strona: coarse
ferns like Lastrea filii mas, of shade-loving tastes, and Digitalis
purpurea.
COXIFEBS FOE THE FLOTTEE GAEDEX AST) ITS
IMMEDIATE SUEEOUXDIXGS.
[OXOTOXY of surface and monotony of vegetation have
for a long time past been the bane of our ornamental
gardening, and there are fe-x persons of any taste or
experience in those matters who do not admit that we
must vary both one and the other. . Xo matter what
our small-flower treasures or interest, we cannot go on making more
important and much-resorted-to parts of our gardens devoid of any
beauty beyond that of low and fleeting vegetation. "W'e must rise ;
we want in the first place dignified and bold surroundings at all
times, and we want permanent interest and beauty.
It is already admitted that we want verdure and grace, or we
tacitly admit it by introducing subtropical plants which are expen-
sive to keep, and impossible to cultivate in the open air in many
parts of the country. Among conifers we have that comparatively
dwarf but pyramidal habit which we want so much, while, when we
come close to them and examine them, we find they are in many
cases as elegantly chiselled and dissected as the finest fern. Every-
THE FLORAL WORLD AXD GARDEX^ GUIDE. 309
where in this grand family ai-e to be seen evidences of this, and
never have we looked upon more beautiful masses of verdure than
such plants as Retinospora plumosa and obtusa when well deve-
loped ; they are simply invaluable for those who use them with taste.
Apart altogether from our want of a more elegantly diversified sur-
face in the flower garden, the best and most pi-actical way to meet
which is by the use of such plants as these, aud neat and elegant
young specimens of such things as Thujopsis borealis, the recurved
Yucca, etc., there is in many British gardens a great gulf between
the larger tree and shrub vegetation, and the humbler colouring
material which most will admit should be filled up, and there is
nothing known more suitable for it than these. It were bettei* to
see additions to the dwarf and elegant group of conifers than almost
any other, inasmuch as they are so eminently fitted to meet a great
want of the present day — a more diversified and verdant kind of
aspect among the dwarfer inmates of flower gardens.
Much as conifers are grown with us, how few people have any
idea of their great value as ornamental plants for the very choicest
position in a garden. We are sometimes too apt to put them in
what is called their " proper place " — or, at all events, too far from
the seat of interest to thoroughly enjoy them in winter, when the
beauty of their form and their exquisite verdure are best seen. If
the dwarfer and choicer conifers were tastefully disposed in and
immediately around a flower garden, not altogether spoiled by a
profusion of beds for masses of colour, that flower garden could
hardly fail to look as well in winter as in summer ; in fact, we have
seen places where, from rather close association of the more elegant
types, the best kind of winter garden we have ever seen was made.
In truth, our eflbrts must tend to prevent a desert-like aspect at any
time of the year ; and to this end nothing can help us more than a
judicious selection of conifers. Almost every beauty of form is
theirs. They are of permanent dignity and interest, always occupy-
ing the ground and embellishing it — displaying distinct tints of
the ever-grateful green in spring and summer, waving majestically
before the gusts of autumn, and tellingly beautiful when bearing
on their deepest green the snows of winter.
"We will ofl'er two selections, one for the surroundings of the flower
garden, say the pleasure ground, more or less removed from the
centre of interest ; the other for the closer association with our
ordinary race of flower-garden plants, and, in fact, for any suitable
position in flower gardens, no matter whether natural or geome-
trical, for terrace or for the selectest spots in the pleasure grounds.
"We will commence with the last, as the more important class : —
CUOICE DWAEF AXD ELEGANT CONIFERS.
Abies Pygraoca Biota orientalis variegata aurea
Arthrotaxus cupressoides (selaginoides)
„ laxifolia (Donniana)
Biota cupressiforrais
„ nana
„ orientalis elegantissima
Cephalotaxus drupacea
Ciiamsecyparis sphajroidca variegata
„ „ viridis
Cryptomeria elegans
Cupressus Lawsoniana
;io
TEE FLORAL WOELD A^D GARDEN GUIDE.
Cupressus Lawsoniana nana
„ „ variegata
„ Nutkaensis
Dacrydium glaucum
Juniperus Chinensis
„ „ variegata
,, excelsa stricta
„ fragrans
„ hibernica
„ tamariscifolia
„ _ ,, _ variegata
„ virginiana viridis pendula
Retinospora ericoides
„ leptoclada
Retinospoia hcopodioides
■ „ obtusa
,, „ aurea
„ ,, compacta
„ pisifora
„ „ alba variegata
55 jj aurea
Taxus adpressa
., baccata elegantissima
,. ,, variegata
Thuja aurea
„ nana
Tbujopsis dolabrata
,, latievirens
To this we will add a selection of the kiods most suited for the
surroundings of the flower garden and pleasure ground — of kinds
which, though noble and graceful as can be in many instances, are
yet too large for any but the framing of the picture, so to speak : —
Abies Douglas i
„ Engelmanni
J, Meuziesi inverta
„ Hookeriana
„ oriental! s
Cepbalotaxus Fortunei
Juniperus virginiana glauca
„ „ thurifera
Libocedrus tetragona
Picea amabilis (magnifica)
„ nobilis
„ Nordmacnlana
Picea Parsonsi
„ Pinsapo
Pinus Cembra
„ monticola
„ insignis (where it^thrives)
Sciadopitys verticillata
Thuja Menziesi (Lobbi)
„ plicata
„ pyramidalis
Tluijopsis Standishi
Wellingtonia, of course.
—The Field.
ON TKANSPLANTING TEEES.
EY EOBEET HUTCHISON, OP CAELOWEIE, EIEKLISTON.
N" transplanting, the first care of tlje workmen is to dig a trench around
the plant at a radius of not less than 6 feet from the stem. Having
done so to a depth of about 2 to 2^ feet, the points of the spades maybe
directed inwards towards the root of the tree, and having thus disen-
gaged the plant from its moorings, it may be carefully lifted, if the dis-
tance be short, to its new position.
Should the ball be composed of such earth as is apt to crack or break away, it
should, before being lifted out of the trench, be properly secured by boards roughly
nailed around it, after having been carefully tied together and sewn up in matting,
and damped.
Too much attention cannot be paid to the protection, as much as possible, of the
young roots from the influence of the atmosphere ; and, consequently, to save un-
necessary exposure, the pit intended for the reception of the plant should be pre-
viously dug and prepared for it. If the weather be dry and favourable, we do not
object'to this having been done, and the earth thrown up to pulverize under the
action of the air for a couple of weeks prior to the operation of transplanting.
Before placiug the root-ball into the pit, a little dry, fine soil should first be
thrown into the hole, and if the situation be very low, or the soil heavy, it is a
decided advantage to have the immediate spot well drained by means of small loose
stones, or coarse gravel, laid in narrow .slits radiating from the pit to a distance of
about three yards, deepening such little runlets for superabundant moisture at the
THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 311
extremities to at least a foot below the level of the bottom of the pit. By these
channels the root-bod is rendered less liable to root-damp, the great obstacle to the
success of newly transplanted trees, which is frequently originated by hard tramping
and over-watering at the time of removal.
Having thus placed the tree in the site, the soil is next cautiously filled in to the
hole, care being taken to firm it well ; but, in doing so, it is especially requisite to
av(ad lacerating the small roots, and Avhen the earth is all filled in, there should be
formed around the neck of the tree a trough or hollow, to prevent the operation of
watering from washing away the soil, and thus exposing the rootlets near the sur-
face of the ground.
In planting the tree in its new situation, it is sometimes customary to reverse
its position, if it happens to have a weather side, or an unequally balanced head, and
to turn towards the stormiest point the side of the tree best furnished with branches.
In this way the habit of the plant to turn its branches from the wind is corrected,
and its future appearance improved. AVhere much inequality exists, or where long
limbs predominate too much, a little judicious pruning may be also desirable. In
no case do we advocate root piuning in transplanting deciduous or other trees.
In the manner thus indicated, specimens from about three to six and eight feet
in height are removed without the aid of machinery ; but where a good root-ball
cannot be obtained, a transplanting apparatus should be employed ; and, when this
is necessary, we have found the 30-inch transplanter, patented by M'Glashan, of
Edinburgh, at once efiicient, easily wrought, and economical.
The same general rule is applicable to all methods of transplanting, whether by
manual labour or by machine, namely, to disturb the functions of nature as little
as possible, and when disturbed to provide for the injury a speedy remedy. Thus
very large plants may be transported any distance with perfect safety. When the
operation is conducted by manual labour only, and a considerable distance has to be
traversed to the new site, we have found it best to place the specimen upon a hand-
barrow, and to have the same borne by two or more labourers, seated in a spring-
cart, and, in this way, neither the jolting of the springs, nor the rough unevenness
of the road, afi'ects the stability of the^root-ball. When placed in its new position,
it is well to have the pit somewhat larger than necessary, and into the vacant space
around the ball to pack closely a quantity of fresh mould, composed of well-rotted
turf mixed with leaf-mould ; and, after one good drenching of water, the tree may be
left to its fate.
Should very dry weather supervene, it maybe necessary to add more water.
Yet this is rarely requisite ; and we think that mischief is too often done by frequent
repetitions of watering. In administering the thorough soaking when planted, it is
best to apply the water overhead — that is, upon the leaves and foliage of the tree,
and not merely to pour it into the roots. By this precaution, the invariable ten-
dency to profuse perspiration which the leaves of a transplanted tree exhibit, is
prevented or modified, and, consequently, any undue drain upon the system of the
tree from that cause is obviated. To aid the success of transplanting, it is almost
unnecessary to add that the operation should only be conducted in dull or cloudy
weather.
Security against the swaying of the plant from the action of wind is the only
other precautionary measure, subsequent to planting, requiring notice in this paper.
As soon as removed, all specimens should be firmly secured against the sudden
attacks of gusty weather. Generally speaking, in the case of large trees, the root-
ball will be found a sheet-anchor of sufficient weight (if the tree has been properly
lifted) to cope with the violence of the elements.
It is well, however, to moor small or tender trees by stakes well driven into the
ground, probably to a depth of three feet, or by ropes or strand- wires fastened to
stakes driven into the soil around the root. Another method sometimes employed
to secure steadiness of the tree in its new position, is, in transplanting, to splice to
its leading roots long pieces of tree-roots, from 15 to ^20 feet long and about two
inches diameter, cut from other trees — ihus the lever power, and resistance of the
roots against the swaying of the head by the wind, is greatly increased, until the
tree takes hold of the soil for itself, and becomes thoroughly established in its new
site.
In cases where ornamental shrubs or trees are planted, with the prospect of
being again, at no distant date, transplanted, it would be well to proceed thus : —
312 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Having dug the pit for the reception of the tree, drive four stohs into the ground to
the head, one at each corner of the hole ; to tliese four corner posts nail strong
hoards of common fir planking one inch thick and six broad, or of paling rail, leaving
narrow openings between the joints ; in this underground framework the tree will
expand and spread its roots, and when the time arrives for transplanting, a trench
is dug round the wooden casing ; the four corner posts or stohs are sawn over at the
bottom ; a flat shovel or spade is used to skim under the root-ball, for the purpose of
cutting the downward rootlets ; a rope is passed from either side under the casing,
and fastened- to the tree stem above, so as to keep the whole firm, and in this way,
and with little expense and trouble, the plant may be transferred to its new posi-
tion._ This mode of transplanting has this advantage, that the delay and cost of
previous preparation are avoided, time and labour are saved during the operation
itself, and a certainty of success is, in ordinary circumstances, insured. It may be
prosecuted in ornamental grounds, where, at the time of laying out, it is quite
obvious that in a few years many of the specimens planted will require to be
removed or sacrificed, to leave room for the others.
We may notice, in passing, the ingenious but old-fashioned mode of freezing
the earth around the roots for the purpose of obtaining a good retentive root-ball,
but wo do not recommend it. It necessitates the partial exposure of the rootlets to
the weather at its most inclement season, till sufficiently hard frost sets in, and
the season for the removal is limited to a period of severe frost ; and although, from
the process of freezing the mass of earth round the roots, these organs may sustain no
injury, still the whole met hod -is obviously clumsy, and the foregoing objections are
sufficiently strong to condemn the process at the present day.
Many practical results are within our knowledge to justify the seasons and
circumstances for transplantation advocated in this paper. We may observe, as
instancing between the comparative advantages of autumn and spring, or early
summer planting, the following example, amongst many others, in favour of the
latter season for evergreens : —
_ At C , soil rich loam of considerable depth, on a rather damp, clayey sub-
soil; elevation above sea-level, 90 feet; in the month of November, 1856, a thick
belting of evergreens, chiefly Portugal Laurels, Bays, Hollies, Yews, etc., was
formed. The plants Avere about 2| to 3| feet high, and were carefully ''pitted" in
the usual way. A moderately severe winter ensued, and the losses by next April
were from 40 to JO per cent. This arose not so much from the severity of the
frost, as from the influence of the chilling east winds of spring in February,
March, and April, succeeding a considerable period of wet weather, acting upon the
plants before they had become established in their new site. The blanks thus
created were made up in the spring of 1858, from the same nursery stock and in
the same manner as before, but at the beginning of May instead of in the autumn;
and the consequence waa, that not only was there no case of failure, but these last
removed plants are now much taller and stronger fpecimens than the suiTivors of
the previous years planting.
To notice the advantageous results of Midsummer transplanting, we need only
refer to the trees removed during the summer of 1863, at Goldenacres Nurseries, to
test and exhibit the power and advantages of M'Giashan's Patent Transplanting
Apparatus, and which are all very healthy and thriving. These trees are chiefly
Conifers and ornamental Oaks, such as Quercus panonica, salicifolia, pterifolia, etc.,
and ranged from about 4 feet to 11 feet in height when removed. The operations
of transplanting them were carried out during June, July, and August, 1863, and
not only had none of the plants lifted sustained any injury, but even in the follow-
ing spring, and ever since, they have gone on producing vigorous shoots of young
wood ; several Thorns removed having, in 18G4, made growths of about 3^^- feet in
length !
^ Before concluding this paper we have to notice the comparative advantages in
point of cost, progress, etc., of transplanting trees from 3 to 6 feet high, instead of
the larger specimens usually removed for purposes of immediate efi'ect. When per-
manent results are desired, and value as well as amenity has to be added to the
estate by the growth of healthy timber, there can be no doubt that the advantage
is in favour of the smaller specimens, It may, no doubt, be desirable to clothe
with rich foliage the barren landscape, or afford protection to weather-beaten flocks
and herds, by calliDg into immediate existence the sheltering belt ; and where the
THE FLORAL WOELD ANB GARDEN GUIDE. 313
subjects can be procured, to be thinned out, or where clumps are to be found
to draw from, the practice of removing large trees may be adopted with benefit
and success at no very extravagant expense ; and thus enhanced value may be
given s,t once to bare pasture lands ; but the art must ever bo limited, and it is not
in the case of largo trees applicable to the general purposes of utility. It may be
argued in favour of economy of the practice of removing largo specimens, that
e.T tensive tracts of ground usually occupied by young trees and nurses may be saved
for other purposes, that the expenses of fencing and of maintaining plantations
during years of unpro6tableaess, and of cleaning, thinning, and pruning, may be
avoided, if trees of large giowth were more generally transplanted than those
usually employed, and that the difficulty of raising in some unsuitable localities and
soils several of the slow-growing varieties during their tender years would be
avoided ; but in opposition to such specious arguments we can only remark that,
■whiU for immediate landscape effect, and for that only, the larger the tree removed
the better, provided it be done successfully, and be not transplanted to its new site
in a mutilated condition to pine and decay, and such means must be employed by
those who desire to anticipate years of growth and progress to attain theii- object —
still their pleasure must he dearly bought at the price it costs, and the risks of
falures they incur for a few years of merely temporary advantage. On the othtr
hand, those who are satisfied with transplanting for the pvu'pose of immediate effect,
specimens of from 3 to 8 feet high, will be more amply rewarded, for at much less
cost and trouble, and with prospects of greater certainty of success, they obtain a
far more rapid and healthy growth of young wood, as well as a more enduring
superiority of timber ; and they consequently bequeath to their posterity a richer
and more valuable gift, in the more permanently improved and enhanced value of
their property.
BCJLBOUS FLOWERS IN THE GARDENS, SQUARES, AND
PUBLIC WALKS IN LARGE TOWNS.
BY SAMUEL BECOME, E.R.n.S.,
Gardener to the Honourable Society of the Inner Temple, London.
SlAYIXG made up my mind to attempt a spring garden in the heart of
London, trusting that if successful it would, by examjile, induce a better
system — or perhaps I ought to saj', to encourage some attempt at a
system — of floral display in our dingy London squares and churchyards,
I selected the hyacinth, tulip, and crocus, as siibjects with which I
should have the best chance of success. Having procured a good supply of each,
my first step was to decide where to plant them. After some consideration, I chose
the ten circular beds on the slope at the south side of the north walk, and the six
larger oval beds lower down on the same slope, also the small oval beds on the
west and east sides of the lawn. But here a grave difficulty presented itself. All
the beds were at this time filled with chrysanthemums coming fast on towards the
flowering season ; to pot and plunge all the bulbs would have taken some thousands
of pots, which I did not possess, to say nothing of the labour. However, I hit
upon a plan. I commenced the first week in October to plant them temporarily
under some trct's in a sheltered west border. I first placed on the soil thtee inches
of cocoa-nut fibre, and on this planted my bulbs, the hyacinths about four inches
apart, the crocuses about three inches. I then covered them with three inches more
cocoa-nut fibre, putting on the top of all a thin layer of brushwood to prevent the^
cats from scratching them up. At Christmas I took the chrysanthemums out of
their beds, and placed them in their winter quarters. I then dug up the beds for
the hyacinths, say eighteen inches to two feet deep, and incorporated a good dress-
ing of well-rotted dung. I should have liked to have added some good, light,
maiden loam from the country, but, with the exception of a few loads for potting
purposes, very little of this comes to my share ; consequently it must be borne in
314 THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
mind these hyacinths grew and flowered in soil that had not been changed, except
with the addition of the dung, for fifty years or more. This places the hyacinths
in the first rank of bulbs for town gardens. My next operation was to take up the
bulbs from their temporary lodgings. This I accomplished by pushing a hand-fork
underneath the cocoa-nut fibre, and lifting up the bulbs in patches (being very
careful not to disturb the roots), and placed them gently on a hand-barrow for
convenient transport to the respective beds already prepared for them, where they
were planted out about nine inches apart and two inches below the surface. Every
bulb had by this time thrown up a remarkablystrong shoot about two inches above the
crown of the bulb. I then covered all over with half an inch of cocoa-nut fibre. I
luckily got all this done before the tremendous frost set in. I had taken the precau-
tion of placing over the beds a number of bent sticks, and during the severest weather
a mat was thrown on at sunset, and taken off at nine a.m. Only one variety was
planted in each bed, thus insuring uniformity in height, colour, and time of bloom-
ing, and presenting, when in flower, a most effective mass of colour. The varieties
grown were as follows : — Single reds and rose colours, Charlemagne, Fanny
Kemble, Johanna Christina; single blues and purples, Duke of "Wellington, Charles
Dickens, Baron Yon Tuyl, William the First ; single pure whites, Grand Vain-
queur, Victoria Regina, and Madame Tallyrand.
The single varieties are for bedding purposes much more brilliant and effective
than the doubles. Nothing could be more satisfactory than these hyacinths ; not
one had failed. They were in bloom nearly a month, and produced spikes of
flowers six to eight inches in length. I may say, without vanity, I never saw
finer flowers out of doors.
The crocuses were treated in the same manner as the hyacinths, and finally
planted out round the margin of the hyacinth beds, where, after flowering (which
did not last long, as the wet and cold set in just as they were coming into full
beauty), their foliage formed a pleasing relief to the brilliant colours of the
hyacinths. The varieties I find do best here, are the large Golden Yellow ; Prince
Albert, lilac ; David Rizzio, purple ; Ne Plus Ultra, blue, edged white ; Albion,
striped ; Sir Walter Scott, striped ; Cloth of Silver, striped ; and Queen Victoria,
white. As a rule, the blues, purples, yellows, and striped, are the best for smoky
localities in towns, the whites being somewhat more delicate.
We now come to the tulips. Some of these I planted temporarily, one portion
in cocoa-nut fibre, the same as the hyacinths ; a second portion in a similar manner,
but in well-decayed leaf-mould ; the remainder I planted at once in the beds in
which they were to bloom. Those planted in the leaf-mould flowered better than
those in the cocoa-nut fibre, but those that were put directly into the flowering beds
did best of all. I planted these in the first week in November, having pre-
viously well-trenched the beds, incorporating a good dressing of decayed leaf-
mould (of which I find the tulip is excessively fond). The bulbs were placed three
to four inches deep, and four inches apart ; they began to bloom the middle of
April, and continued in magnificent display till the storm on the 10th of May
destroyed them. A few other tulip bulbs were planted in common border earth,
with a slight dressing of rotten dung, but they did very badly, as I found the
worms in the dung had eaten the roots ; but, probably, had I placed a small quan-
tity of silver sand round each bulb, it would have defended them from the attacks
of the worms, and the tulips would, perhaps, have succeeded better.
Where it is inconvenient to plant the tulips at the proper time (November) in
the beds in which they are to flower, I should recommend their being potted into
60-sized pots, one bulb in a pot, the soil to be composed of two-thirds loam and one-
third well-decayed leaf-mould, and placed in some sheltered spot, and the whole
covered over to the height of eight or nine inches with cocoa-nut fibre. I would
here remark that, although cocoa-nut fibre is not a good material for tulips to be
planted in, it is most excellent for the purpose of covering them. The varieties
which flowered best here were Rex Rubrorum, double crimson-scarlet, a most noble
flower ; La Candeur, double white ; Tournesol, double yellow and red, a particu-
larly showy variety ; Couronne Purple, semi-double blood red ; Belle Alliance, or
Waterloo, single scarlet ; Y'ellow Prince, single pure yellow ; Pottebakker, single
pure white ; Royal Standard, single white, striped rosy crimson ; Duchesse de
Parma, single crimson and orange ; Morgen Zon, single fiery scarlet. I have tried
some sixty or seventy varieties, all more or less beautiful, but those enumerated
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 315
arc, with me, the best for bedding and massing purposes, as they all flower nearly
at one time, and the smoky atmosphere seems to have but little effect upon them.
I find it necessary to have fresh imported roots every year, as although the same
roots will flower the second year, they cannot be depended upon to produce an effect
in conspicuous beds ; but as they are too good to thr>w away, I plant them in a
less important part of the border, where, with generous treatment, they flower tole-
.rably well, but not nearly so fine, and much later than they did the first season.
The Turk's Cap and Orange Lilies always bloomed freely here until the chry-
santhemums were grown so extensively, causing the damp in November to remain in
the soil, and rot the lily roots. The Narcissus also does well when planted in the
common border earth.
The bulbs I have mentioned, with the addition of some of the hardiest and
earliest flowering annuals, and such hardy plants as the white Arabis, yellow Alys-
sum, purple Aubrietia, Cheiranthus Alpinus, blue Forget-me-not, wallflowers, etc.,
etc., all wonderfully hardy and ridiculously cheap, will make any town garden,
however confined the locality, bright and gay during spring and early summer,
when they may be followed by intermediate stocks, geraniums, calceolarias,
lobelias, and asters, for the summer and autumn, closing the season with chry-
santhemums, both large-flowered and pompon varieties, carrying us to nearly
Christmas ; and thus we have, by a little management and a small outlay, a floral
display of nearly or quite ten months' duration.
I must observe, in conclusion, the above remarks apply essentially to squares
and other open spots in large towns. Gardeners in more favoured localities have
of course a much wider range of subjects to choose from, and will, perhaps, look
with contempt on some of the plants herein mentioned ; but they must bear in
mind that what will grow freely as the commonest weeds in the piu-e and
bracing air of the country, here require an amount of management and care that
would not be believed until the attempt be made to grow them.
'!1SER-P0ST pan PUHCHaSERS
IF PLUifS, SEEDS. ETC.
A SELECTION OF THE BEST HYACINTHS
,^ FOR CONSERVATORY AND GREENHOUSE
: DECORATION.
DOUBLE BLUE.
Bloclcsberg. — Fine large bells, one of the
best.
GarricJc. — Compact and very handsome.
Eroon Van Iniian.—Very dark, fine spike.
' Laurens Eoster.— This proved the finest I grew last year.
Bouquet Roynle. — Large bells and fine spike.
Sir Colin Campbell.— Immense bells, extra fine spike.
Madame Marmont. — A distinct and excellent variety.
Prince Frederick.— Oi fine form and handsome spike.
SINOLE BLUE.
Abd-el-Kader.^Xery dark, extra fine spike.
Charles Dickens.— BeawtiM purple shade, splendid truss.
Grand Lilas. — Of good form and spike.
Prince Albert. — Well known as an excellent kind.
Mimosa. — Very dark and splendid truss.
Begidus. — Deep shaded, fine bells.
31C THE FLOHAL WORLD AND GARDEN^GUIDE.
Grand Videife.— Fine spike, very beautiful.
La Flus Aoir. — Very dark.
Uncle Tbw.— Beautiful violet shade, fine truss.
Emilius. — Eine for early forcing.
DOUBLE RED.
DuJce of Wellington.— VqXq red, of fine form.
Waterloo. — A popular useful kind.
Eclipse.— A. superb truss.
Frederick the G'rea^.— Exceedingly large, one of the best.
Grootvoorst.—\]&QM, on account of its delicate bells.
Je7iny Lind. — Fine double, and very beautiful.
Qtieen Victoria. — Beautiful large truss.
Princess Royal. — Very compact, extra fine.
Sir Thomas Grey. — Of good form and spike.
SINGLE liED.
Amy.— L^r ere and very fine.
Amphioti.~A superb flower, with large, well-formed bells.
Circe. — Distinct, with a bright salmon shade.
Madame Modyson. — Small bells, but exquisitely formed.
Hoioard. — A new and beautiful kind.
Fire Ball. — Very bright, large bells and spike.
Gigantea. — Immense spike, when not forced too early.
Sultan's Favourite. — Distinct and good.
Duchess of Eichmond. — Y'me large truss.
DOUBLE WHITE.
Jenny Lind. — Very pure white, first-rate spike.
Don Gratuit. — A bold and handsome truss.
Frince of Waterloo. — One of the best, both in form and size of truss.
Heroine. — A lovely white, of exquisite shape and strength.
Anna Maria. — A useful old kind, with moderate bells.
A la Mode. — Fine large spike.
Ne Flits Ultra. — A splendid flower.
Frincess Alice. — A magnificent new kind.
Sceptre d' Or. — Beautifully scented.
SINGLE AVHITE.
JIannah More. — Fine well-formed bells and spike.
Queen of the 'Netherlands. — Immense spike and bells.
Miss Nightingale. — Scarce, but a magnificent ilower.
Cleopatra. — Fine and very beautiful.
Emicus. — A superb truss, fine for early forcing.
Hercules. — Well named, an extra fine spike and bells.
Queen Victoria. — Exquisitely-formed truss.
Mont Blanc. — Pure white, magnificently -for«ied spike and bells.
Voltaire. — Long and handsome truss.
Seraphine. — Good truss, Avith large bells.
Grand Vainqueur. — Beautiful pure white.
Of yellow kinds I shall only name a few single varieties, as, generally speak-
ing, they are not sufiiciently distinct in colour to be worthy of a separate notice.
SINGLE YELLOW.
Alida Jacobea.— The most attractive of any in its class.
Anna Carolina.— A good yellow, with large bells.
Fleur d' Or.— Good spike.
Heroine. — Very fine spike.
King of Holland.— Good and distinct. J. C. C.
317
NEW PLANTS.
GATE SCHIDIGERA, SpUntered-Ieared American Aloe (Bot. Maa.,
t. 5641).— AmaryllidecT. This noble aloe, one of the most distinct" in
leafage of any in cultivation, flowered in the nur=ery of Mr B S Wil-
liams, Holloway, in January last. The scape is erect, about six feet
high the lo^7er part covered with red bracts. The spike cylindrical,
many-ilowercd, the flowers green, with yellow anthers.
DAi.EcirAMPiA RoEZLiANA, HoezV s Bale-
cJiampia {Bot. Mag., t. 5640).— Euphor-
biaceas. A magnificent stove shrub, a fit com-
panion to tlie glorious Bougainvillea. It is a
native of Vera Cruz, and was first introduced
to Europe by Messrs. Van Houtte, of Ghent.
Leaves six inches long, dark shining green ;
involucral bracts two and a half inches long,
of a brilliant rose colour, the flowers, male
and female together, in clusters.
Col AX juGosus, Furroio-lipped Colax
{Bot. Mag., t. 5661).— Orchidete. A native
of Brazil, lately flowered in the collection of
Mr. Rucker, of Wandsworth. The leaves
are six to nine inches long, the flowers two
inches in diameter, sepals pnle cream colour,
petals white, overlaid v/iih black purple
bands ; lip marked like the petals.
Deac.^na surculosa, car. maculata.
Long -shooting Dracczna ; spotted-leaved va-
riety {Bot. Mag., t. 5662).— Asparaginese. A
shrub six to eight feet high, leaves in sub-
opposite pairs, four to six inches long, oblong
lanceolate, briglit green, with round yellowish
spots.
Begoxia Veitchii, TeitcTis Begonia
{Bot. Mag., t, 5663).— Begoniacece. This is
probably the finest Begonia known ; at all
events, it is certain to prove one of the mpst
useful, and will soon become a general favour-
ite. It has the habit of Saxifraga ciliata,
the leaves orbicular, thick in texture, and a
fine dark green colour. The flower of great
,^ size and brilliant vermilion red. It is nearly
hardg, having withstood a temperature of 25'
Fahrenheit in Messrs. Veitch's nursery last
winter.
Epldexdrijm Brassavol.^, Brassavola-
like Epidendrum {Bot. Mag., t. 5664). —
Orchiderc. A distinct and splendid species, discovered by the hits" Mr. Skinner in
Guatemala. It is rearest allied to E. prismatocarpnm, but is much handsomer.
The raceme sometimes attains a height of from two to three feat, the flowers are
citron yellow, with prominent lip, the lower half of which is cream-coloured, the
anterior half bright purple.
Erouium macradenium, Spotted-Jlotcered Storlcs-hill {Bot. Mag., t. 5665). —
Geraniactffi. A scarce species from the Pyrenees The leaves are elegantly cut
into pinnate segoaents, the flowers are rosy, with rich veins and spots.
Griffinia Blume.xavia, Dr. Blumenatis Griffinia {Bot. Mag.., t. 5666).
Amaryllideoe. A beautiful tropical bulbous plant, with persistent leaves and
amaryllis-like flowers, which are white with rosy stripes.
Aristolcchia tricaudata, Three-tailed Aristolochia {Vlllnst. Hort., t. 522).
— A curious and handsome species, native of Chiapas. The leaves are ovate lan-
ceolate, the flowers large, dark brown, terminating in three long tails.
AGAVE SCniDIGEEA.
318
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
Acer (pot.tmorphum) palmatum, fol, dissectis pennatifidts roseo-pictts
Palmate-maple, with rosy-tinted dissected leaves {Vllhist. Jlort. t. 523). —
— Aceraceaj. In spite of its elon-
gated name this is a beautiful
hardy tree, with fmely-cut leaves,
■which vary from purplish red to
pale rose colour.
MiLTONiA ROSEA, Rosy-Jloiv-
ered Miltonia {V Ilhist. Sort. t.
524). — Orchideee, A splendid spe-
cies ; the sepals and petals are nar-
row, and of a pale rosy cream
colour, the lip broad and deltoid,
ground colour rosy cream, over-
laid with heavy stripes of puce
colour.
Cattleya Dowiana, Doio's
Cattleya {L'llliist. Hort. t. 525).
— Orchidacese. A good figure of
this magnificent species.
Acer (poltmorphum) palma-
tum SANGL'INEUM, Palmate-majple
with hlood-red leaves (L'llhst.
Hort. t. 526). — A fine hardy tree,
the leaves varying in colour from a
blood red to a deep bronzy brown. dalechampia ROEzijAifA.
Camellia Carlotta Poloso (L'llhisf. Hort., t. 527). — An Italian seedling,
the flower of average size, imbricated petals, rather pointed, colour rosy red, with
stripe of blush down the centre of each petal.
WINTER TEEATMENT OF KITCHEN aAEDENS.
N the early part of winter we often have a good deal of opeu or mild
weather ; and it is a matter of some consequence to know how the gar-
dener can be employed to the best advantage.
As I observe that, comparatively, few gardeners here appear to
place sufficient importance on the value of exposing the soil, as much as
possible, to the winter's frost, I wish to be allowed to make a few remarks upon the
subject.
Ridging up the surface of every unoccupied spot, in a kitchen garden, is one of
the things most of all insisted upon. Experience has demonstrated, hundreds of
times, that it mellows the soil, destroys the eggs of insects, and drives out any acids
or excrementitious matters that exist in old soils to the detriment of the succession
of annual crops. Indeed, many old gardens that ore quite unproductive, if left
alone in this particular, are kept in capital condition by constantly attending to it.
The ridges ought to be thrown up a foot and a half high, in the direction of the
slope of the ground, so that the water will run off, and not stand in the trenches.
They may be as close together as they can be made, bearing in mind to keep the
tops of the ridges eighteen inches high. I consider it a great advantage to turn up
a little of the subsoil— say a couple of inches each season— at the time of ridging.
This brings a little fresh loam to the surface ; and after being acted upon by the
atmosphere, it mixes very kindly with the top-soil, and helps much to keep up the
fertility of the garden.
If you have fresh stable manure at hand, it is well to give the top-spit a good
coat, and mix it through the soil when ridging up. It will be found to put the soil
in good condition for spring crops of vegetables; and it is by far the best mode of
applying coarse manure to the kitchen garden. B. B.
319
GAEDEX GUIDE EOE OCTOBER.
Kitchen Garden. — Vacant plots cannot be too soon trenched over and laid up
in ridges to remain the winter. In too many cases this important work is delayed
until the winter is well nigh gone, and but small benefit is derived from it. Do it
now^ and the value of the v/^ork will be ten times that of the same work done in
spring. August sown cabbage may be planted out us opportunities occur ; lettuces
may be planted iu warm borders ; asparagus beds want a slight forking over, and a
coat of mauure ; rhubarb may be planted.
Flower Garden. — The work of this month consists chiefly in getting tender
plants housed for tbe winter, and in giving chrysanthemums a final touch to pre-
pare them for flowering. Look after bulbs of all kinds, and get them potted and
planted as opportunities offer.
Fruit Garden. — Any kinds of fruit-trees may be planted now. "Where the soil
is at all poor let the ground be well dug, and liberally manured.
Greenhouse and Stove. — Give every needful attention to winter flowering sub-
jects J remove all shading (should any remain), see that furnaces and flues are
right, by making a fire the first damp cold day. House all tender subjects, and put
everything in order.
*^* Past issues of the Floral World contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Garden Oracle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons, the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
EosE IX a Tub. — A. B., Bath. — A tub 16 inches deep and 12 inches wide,
could be made, in the hands of a practical cultivator, sufficient for the growth of a
climbing rose to cover an arch. The best way to manage it would be to use a mix-
ture of one-third fat manure and two-thirds good loam, and in planting to ram the
soil in firmly. A rose on its own roots should be preferred. Plenty of water
must be given from the end of April till the end of July, and in November the rose
should be shaken out and replanted in the same tub with fresh soil immediately.
At the same time the roots and branches should be moderately cut back. It would
be far better, however, if a square yard extent of good soil can be afforded for the
purpose.
Hays's Constant Stove. — Constant Subscriber. — This is undoubtedly the best
contrivance known for heating small plant-houses. It is cheap and elegant ; it re-
quires no chimney (yet it is made so that one may be attached if desirable), the
fuel used is a sweet, cleanly, and comparatively cheap material ; the very asbes are
useful in the garden, and it occupies scarcely so much room as a sack of potatoes
stood on end. We do not know if there is an agent in Liverpool. It would be well
to write to ^Ir. Bakei-, Harp Lane, Tower Street, London, E.G.
Mr. Jeeves cannot expect us to advertise his business for him. We bestowed far
too much attention on his predecessor.
N.E.D. — Your charming fern is Nothochlcenajlavens. It is evergreen, de-
cidedly tender, and requiring extra care in winter. Excess of moisture, or absolute
want of moisture, will soon prove the death of it.
Newark. — Tour plant is Alstromeria psittacina.
Vines in Ground Vinery. — H. C. P- — Your grapes appear to be quite spoiled
by combined attacks of mildew and red spider. You have, no doubt, failed to afford
sufficient atmospheric moisture during hot weather to sustiin the increased evapo-
ration from the leaves. This brought red spider ; then the temperature fell very
low, and the vines were suddenly checked after having enjoyed lor a short time a
Btove heat, and then mildew appeared. Such appears to us to be the rationale of
the disaster. Our advice is, cut off all the bunches and destroy them, and give the
young wood the best chance possible to ripen off.
320 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
LiLiuM ExiMiUM. — Carmarthen. — Your non-success -with this lily is owing to
your doing too much for it. Treat the plant as hardiest of the hardy, plant it six
inches deep in a good, deep, loamy border, and leave it to take care of itself, and you
■will see it grow freely and flower superbly. This time last year we had some articles
on lilies, in which just such advice was offered in regard to the plant now under
consideration. Your phloxes have probably exhausted all the goodness out of the
soil, and want transplanting to renew their vigour. Leave them alone till April
next, then take them up, part them into small pieces, and plant them in fresh spots
that have been well dug and liberally manured. Your soil is probably too light for
phloxes ; dig in a little clay as well as manure for them, if you can get it.
Amateur. — Your fern is Fteris scaler ula. We do not think Viola cornuta
could be flowered well in winter in the conservatory, but it might happen to do very
Avell that way. Try it.
A.B. — The insect is a mite, and you will find its history in any good book in
which mites are ti-eated of. Charlock, of which yon enclose a bit, is the common
" yellow weed " of the turnip fields, the " wild mustard " of village botanists, Slna-
pis arvensis of the books. Cerasus mahaleh may be grown from cuttings of ripe
wood of the previous year.
Loxley, WarwicJc. — The grass is Lolium temulentiim, the only British grass
that produces unwholesome grain.
" Infelix Lolium, et sterllis dominantur avenae." — Virgil.
Catalogues. — Lists of Bulbs and other flower-roots have been received from
Messrs. Sutton & Sons, Reading ; Messrs. Carter & Co., of High Holborn ; Mr. John
Fi-aser, of Lea Bridge Road ; Mr. B. 8. Williams, of Holloway ; Messrs. Cutbush
and Son, of Higbgate ; Messrs. E. G. Henderson & Son, St. John's "Wood ; Messrs.
Barr & Sugden, King Street, Covent Garden; and Messrs. Low & Co., Clapton.
Lists of Roses and FrvJ.t Trees have been received from Messrs. Lane k, Son,
Berkhampstead ; Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshuat; Mr, Tanfon, Epsom ; Mr. Eraser,
Lea Bridge Road ; Mr B. S. Williams, Holloway ; Messrs. Yeitch & Son, Chelsea ;
and Mr. Chater, Cambridjre.
Books Received. — Thomson's " Cultivation of the Vine," 5th Edition (Black-
wood), claims the respectful attention of every aspirant for success in grape culture.
It is the book on the subject ; it treats of every point likely to arise in any depart-
ment, and is everywhere as plain and practical as the author, who is one of the
finest grape-growers in the country. " Studies, Biographical and Critical," by Dr.
Ross (Simpkin), is a book for thoughtful readers, who can enjoy pure criticism and
scholarly enunciation of views founded on long observation and earnest study. One
of the best " Studies " in the book is one on the mad characters in Shakespeare.
There are also elaborate studies of Dr. Johnson and Sir Walter Raleigh.
Shady Border. — Z. — Many good things will suit your shaded border. All the
members of the genera Acbnitum, Delphinium, and Helianthus will thrive in it.
The common Christmas Rose will do well if the soil is good. Hollyhocks the same,
but you must not have expensive kinds, Papaver bracteatum and armeniacum will
be quite at home there, and all the Phloxes are available if the situation is airy.
Polyanthuses and Primroses plant plentifully. Double Daisies will do if taken up
and replanted every September. A fine display may be made in autumn by turning
out a number of Fuchsias. Lastly, British ferns will enjoy the shade, and you may,
if you like, appropriate the border wholly to them. Thus, you see, a border need not
be shabby for lack of sun.
THE FLORAL WORLD
AND
GARDEN GUIDE
NOVEMBER, 18G
THE PICTCTEESQUE IX GARDEN DESIGNS.
N the practical work of laying out small gardens, the
common diflSculty is to give them a distinctive character,
so many plots in a villa district being nearly alike.
When called in to advise on laying out a large place, I
expect and experience far less trouble than in dealing
with a small one. AYhere there is a fine property to begin with,
there are usually certain constitutional features which the land-
scapist must work up to, so that his design shall be really an adorn-
ment of nature, making the utmost of every good point ready to his
hand, and developing rather than obliterating natural scenes. On a
property of any extent there will, perhaps, be a water-course in the
low levels, and some rough acclivities on the higher grounds. By
judicious dressing and proper earthworks the hills may be enriched,
the prospect widened and beautified, and the water-course made a
pleasing feature to light up a varied scene. There will, perhaps, be
found many large trees in the place, which the wise director will
spare for the sake of immediate effect, and all other trees brought in
will be planted so as to give fuller effect to the trees already on the
ground. It matters not how much needs to be destroyed or altered,
a large expanse of ground will always aftord features of its own,
which should be made the most of; but a small property usually
needs to be dealt with as v.e deal with a sheet of blank paper when
a picture is demanded. Even in this case, however, the surround-
ings must be taken serious account of. A poor view may be
improved by judicious planting of the foreground, and a careful dis-
position of trees and clumps will make the most flat and common-
place spot rich and various, the apparent extent will be enlarged,
and a good selection of subjects will afibrd to the proprietor agree-
able changes of colour and effects in every season of the year. I
propose to select from my portfolio of plans, from time to time,
sucli as appear likely to be useful to readers of the Flokal Would,
more especially those who are building residences, and laying out
gardens for themselves ; and these plans will be such as I have
YOL. II. — NO. XI. 21
322 THE ELORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
carried out myself wlieii employed as adviser in these matters, pre-
ferment being given for the particular purpose to sucli as are
applicable to gardens of comparatively small extent, for the small
gardens are generally laid out by their owners, and ready-made
designs are often readily adaptable to them, but large places cannot
so well be treated from plans otherwise than such as have been
designed expressly for them.
The subjoined is a rather rough engraving of a very useful
scheme for a garden for a suburban villa. It is such a one as will
serve, by the disposition of the clumps, to exclude noise, dust, and
disagreeable objects, and is essentially rural in character. It is in
the English style, which is the best style for this country, and
especially for those who love gardens, and are not possessed of large
fortunes to make for themselves princely places. The sketch is on
a scale of fifty feet to one inch. The house is set back from a public
road, or from farm fields, and is approached by a good drive, which
always confers upon a respectable edifice an air of dignity and com-
fort. The view from the Avindows every way is pleasing ; there is
an ample extent of grass turf, numerous clumps of trees and shrubs,
and abundant scope for the cultivation of roses, rhododendrons,
herbaceous plants, and for the display of specimens of particularly
choice character, whether coniferous trees or otherwise. The
pleasure-ground is enclosed with walls or hedges, according to
circura stances. If walls are used, a greater breadth of choice fruits
may be planted; but, as a rule, low closely-clipped hedgerows would
be preferable, especially to separate the frame-ground and kitchen-
garden from the pleasance. There is a good main walk for ordinary
purposes, and narrow rear walks for the use of the gardeners, and
for the proprietor when desirous of exploring every part of the
property. Such a plot would usually be cut up more minutely with
walks, but our rule is to make as few walks as possible, and, as a
rule, to dispose therii so that, while traversing any one, no other can
be seen.
This garden is somewhat luxurious in character, and is better
fitted for a person who would prefer forced fruits and vegetables, a
few pines, some good grapes, and choice greenbouse plants, in addi-
tion to a good lawn and its proper accessories, than for one who
would loolv to the garden for abundant supplies of ordinary vege-
tables and ample stores of winter roots. Nevertheless, the com-
partments marked 0, which are best adapted for a series of pits for
pines, flowers, and forced vegetables, might be made available as
ordinary vegetable plots, or to be more choice in their appropriation,
they may serve well for strawberries, bush fruits, and other more
select subjects. Supposing the ground to fall from the house towards
the lower boundary, the position of the fountain is such that a good
head of water near or about the residence would suffice for it, and
the expense attending it would be inconsiderable. But should the
ground rise from the house (a most undesirable condition) the
fountain would be ill-placed, and might, perhaps, be advantageously
dispensed with. In the particular case for which this plan was
drawn, there was a good head of water at the house, and after the
Scale 50 Fekt to 1 Inch.
A, Dwelling-hotisc.
B, Conservatory.
C, Clump of s-hrubs to divide tiic
drive.
D, Shrubbery skirting the road, or otlier
boundary.
E, Sheds and rubbish.
F, Frames.
G, Clumps for rhododendrons, etc.
H. Plantations of mixed trees and shrubs.
I, Beds of flowers.
J, Beds of choice flowers.
K, Grass turf.
L, CiirriogH drive, 14 feet.
M, Main garden Avalk, 9 feet.
N, Rustic arbour.
0, Compartments 36 feet by 2i feet each.
P, Q, Borders for wall-treL;s.
R, Fountain.
S, Walk round frame gr':^und and fruit
garden.
T, Plnnt-houses.
U, Vinery, oO feet by l(i feet.
V, Rear walks.
324 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
first cost for one of Ransome's rustic fountains (some £30), and
the necessary service of pipes, the cost of water supply was quite a
trifling matter. The vinery is drawn as it was built, for in this ease
the frontage was on a private road, in the midst of a large property,
and the owner wished to have an entrance from the road. But it
would be easy enough to enter the vinery and the plant-houses
from the side next the dwelling, and other details might be altered
in like manner, and yet the plan might prove substantially useful.
It is a common thing to be called in at this time of year to lay
out and plant a new place. But the planting is rarely accomplished
until at least a year has elapsed, for the season is usually gone ere
the drains and walks are made, and while the builders are about it is
absurd to plant anything valuable. This in defence of landscape
gardeners generally. People who expect a man to begin in October,
and finish a place before Christmas, having, perhaps, to convert a
wet meadow into a garden, should bear in mind that if the foun-
dations are not sound, no garden can be a credit to the planter or a
pleasure to the proprietor. Lay a good foundation first, and lose a
season rather than have trees and shrubs stuck into undrained,
untrenched soil, where they are likely to perish in a few years, or if
they live will never be a credit to any one concerned in their exist-
ence. S. If.
HOME-GBOWjS" BEIERS for BIJDDIisG.
Is the " Rose Book," our Editor has shown how to propagate roses
from cuttings at all seasons, and how to raise briers from seeds and
suckers. Acting on the advice of the '' Rose Book," I have become
expert in propagating roses, and now I propose to add my chapter
on the subject. I have great difficulty in obtaining briers, as the
dog rose is scarce in my district. I have tried raising from seed,
which answers very well, but you are not sure that the seed will be
gathered from the right sort ot brier, and, therefore, you get a rather
mixed lot, some being bad for budding. But I solved the problem
by putting in cuttings of briers, exactly as the " Rose Book" recom-
mends for roses, and now I can be independent of the hedgerows.
This is my contribution. Would that I could do more in acknow-
ledgment of the service you have rendered me. W. R. T.
325
FEUIT PROSPECTS.
iA.VJXG- contributed our share to the active discussions
on Iruit culture, which have occupied so largely the
attention of the horticultural public, it would be im-
politic, and, perhaps, unjust, to allow the present
phase of the discussion to pass by without offering
our readers some remarks of a practical nature likely to benefit
them. At this time of year a certain number of persons are
engaged in the purchase and planting of fruit-trees, and they are of
necessity interested in the respective merits of different varieties of
fruits, and different methods of growing them. AVe have lately
given our opinion on the proposal to introduce the cordon system of
training into English gardens, and on the respective merits of the
extension and restriction systems of grape-vine culture. We now
address ourselves to some cognate topics, hoping earnestly that what
we have to say may prove truthful and usel'ul.
Let us first speak of orchard-houses. These do not increase at
the rate they did formerly, and there are many sound, practical
men still who are sceptical as to their value. The fact is, the
judicious employment of glass, whether with or without the aid of
artificial heat, is of immense value in the cultivation of choice fruits
in this uncertain clime : but orchard-houses have been much abused,
and they are still in a great measure misunderstood. The proper
use of an orchard-house is for such fruits as cannot be grown with
certainty in the open air of the same district, or to hasten the
maturity of fruits that do thrive in the open air of the same dis-
trict, and of which earlier supplies are required than can be
obtained by trusting to the natural course of the seasons. When
some of the best varieties of peaches, nectarines, and plums are
planted out in a roomy orchard- house, we say that glass is well
employed and will afford an ample return on all the money expended
in the construction. But when we find a similar structure occupied
with little apple, pear, and cherry-trees, in pots, we regard the house
and the trees as toys, and as no one expects toys to pay, so we
never ask if the fruits obtained from the potted trees are in quantity
and quality any wa}^ commensurate to the cost of obtaining them.
Pot culture may be a profitable system in some cases, but as a rule
it is a delusion. In January, 18(32, we directed the attention of our
readers to the advantages to be derived from the culture of fruit
under glass, by means of trees planted out, and we have never for-
gotten that potted trees may be so well managed as to be annually
smothered with good fruit, though the value of such fruit can never
be a full equivalent for the time bestowed in its production. Where
an amateur pursues this system of fruit-culture as an amusement,
the result is all profit, and we have nothing more to say ! But if
we are asked to speak of the most profitable use of glass for fruit
production, we must advocate the construction of large. Tight houses
with inside borders, and the trees planted in them as in the old-
fashioned peach-houses. Having provided glass, the cultivator
32G THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
should devote his energies only to the production of fruits worth
extra pains and labour, as, for example, the Stanwick Nectarine, the
"Walburton Admirable Peach, the tender Melon and Mother Apples,
the Blue Iraperatrice Plum. Glass provides a better climate than a
bare wall, and it is a waste of glass to employ it solely for such
things as the bare w;ill will produce in perfection. As to the con-
struction of orchard-houses, we are no advocates for ugly sheds and
hideous makeshiftb\ At page 249 of our fourth volume, we asked
" How do these rough shed-like houses serve their intended pur-
poses ?" and the answer was at once given, " Very inefficiently.
They are as bad for use as they are ugly in appearance." Orchard-
houses require to be well built, and the larger they are the better,
coDsifetently, of course, with the space and means at command, and
the particular purposes to which they are to be devoted.
Miniature trees have pretty well had their day, and there is a
strong, reaction in favour of free stocks in preference to such as
have a dwarfing tendency. On some poor thin soils, the quince, the
paradise, and thcMahaleb stocks are of the utmost value for the pro-
duction of pears, apples, and cherries ; but on all good loams and clays,
on all fertile soil?:, trees grafted respectively on the pear, the crab,
and the wild cherry are far preferable, for though they do not
become fruitful so early, they make far better and more fruitful
trees in the end, and as to early fruitfulues^^, that may be promoted
with free stocks by judicious annual or biennial lifting and root
pruning. This may sound very heretical doctrine, but we are speak-
ing from experieiice and observation, and we are satisfied that the
dwarfing stocks have had far too much praise bestowed upon them.
Suppose that from a bush three feet liigh we obtain a couple of
dozen fruits, and from a tree five feet high none at all. The first
tree is in a conditic^n beyond which it can scarcely improve ; the
second is actually improving, and in two or three years will give as
many bushels as the other w^ill of single fruits. We cheerfully and
openly admit the service that dwarfing stocks have rendered. Por
very small collections, where variety is of more consequence than a
bulk of any one sort, and the cultivator desires a maximum of
amusement from a minimum of garden ground, these miniature
trees are admirable. But we repeat, there has been too much said
in praise of them, and we must keep to the free stocks if we want
lasting and productive trees.
This brings us to the subject of pinching. Let us have before
us an imaginary apple-tree. It is first of all worked on a dwarfing
stock, to check its growth ; it is naxt stuck in a pot, further to
check its growth ; it is next pinched periodically all the growing season
to check Its growth, and in the end w^here is the apple-tree ? It has
become a miserable little shrub, producing nothing but green-fly or
red spider ; but yonder is another tree of the same sort, on a free
stock, growing in its own way, and producing annually many
bushels of fine fruit. Pinching is the companion delusion to pot
culture. It won't do! There are occasions when pinching may
be practised to advantage ; but in every such case it must be dis-
continued early, or the trees will be full of soft shoots w^hen the
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GAEDEN GUIDE. 327
frosts of autumn overtake them. As a rule, plantations of trees
kept on the pinching system have become barren. But after being
left alone a tew years, they have again become abundantly fruitful.
Our own collection of choice apples and pears comprises some six
hundred bushes and pyramids. These have been subjected to
various experiments during ten years past, and the result is that we
find the pinching system occasions too much work, and is ill adapted
to the climate. It is impossible to form neat pyramids or neat trees
of any kind without summer pruning and pinching; but people
have been told to pinch, pinch, pinch, to such an extent that they
have simply^ laboured to make their ti-uit gardens unproductive, and
have succeeded perfectly. How rarely do we find big trees barren,
and how rarely are miniature trees fruitful. Simple methods of
procedure are, therefore, best to be relied upon, and there need be
no mysterious uncertainties in the production of good English
fruits. S. H.
NOTES OX XEW BEDDING PLANTS.
UEINGr the past season a number of new bedding plants
have been tried at Stoke Newington, and amongst them
a few have proved eminently useful.
Nosegay Geeaniums. — Lady Constance Grosvenor
is a finer variety than even Stella or Cy bister. The
leaf is neat, with very dark zone, the flowers brilliant lively crimson,
in very large trusses. Crimson Noserjay is distinct and fine, and
must be in the possession of all who value such plants at the earliest
possible moment. In habit dwarf and compact, branching freely,
producing abundance of flowers, the colours intense deep shaded
crimson. This puts out of competition such varieties as Glowworm,
Magenta, and others of the shaded crimson class. One of its best
qualities is that it seldom produces a seed. Christine Nosegay and
Pink Stella are two beauties with huge nosegay trusses of bright
rose pink flowers. International, a bright scarlet, was not so good
as any of the foregoing, but it was good nevertheless, and as our
plants were very small when put out, we expect far better behaviour
next year, and so class this with the varieties we consider that
amateurs may purchase with safety.
Variegated Geeaniums. — Great as is the favour for tricolor
varieties planted in beds, we believe the day is not far distant when
the tricolors will be thought little of for bedding. Looked down
upon, a bed of Mrs. Pollock is one of the most delightful spectacles
possible in the way of garden coloui'ing, but seen from a distance, it
has a grey^ sombre tone, by no means satisfactory. Eor distant
eff*ect, the most brilliant of all the yellow-leaved varieties is one in
the collection of Messrs. P. and A. Smith, of Dulwich, the name of
which is Aurenm, This is properly a bronze zonal, but the zone is
scarcely conspicuous, and the prevailing yellow hue of the leaf is so
brilliant, yet of so soft a tone of yellow, that we may search far and
228 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
wide for anything to equal it. Another good quality of this variety
is the colour of the flowers, for in place of the ordinary scarlet,
which ill agrees with a yellow ground, the flowers of this variety
are of a soft, pleasing cerise colour, and when a bed of this is freely
sprinkled with flowers, it has a most luxurious appearance. Gold-
finch and Canary have been good this season, but as they are not
new, we must not put their names in italics. Of the Cloth of Gold,
Gold Leaf, and Golden Fleece series, the last-named has proved the
best everywhere. In the class of new silver variegated geraniums,
the only new one that has made any important figure here is one
sent by Mr. J. J. C hater, of Cambridge, and the name of which we
have unfortunately lost. The next best to Chater's is the old Day-
break, and, all things considered, that is probably the best variety of
the kind in cultivation.
Fuchsia, Golden Fleece. — This is one of the many good things
Messrs. E. G. Henderson off'er this season. It is one of the most
brilliant bedding plants ever seen,, the leaves being of a shining gold
yellow colour, literally producing the eft'ect of burnished gold.
Although far less beautiful as a pot plant than when seen glowing
in the sunshine in the parterre, it is by no means unattractive in the
greenhouse, in which respect it differs from, the majority of yellow-
leaved bedding plants, which are usually \erj sickly when seen any-
where but in their places out of doors. This Golden Fleece .sur-
passes all the other variegated -leaved fuchsias, both in colour of leaf,
flower, and habit of growth.
Pp-ethrum, Golden Featlier. — This has been recommended in these
pages, and we are quite confident we need not now be ashamed of
our recommendation. It has, in fact, proved eminently serviceable,
and is a favourite everywhere. Having several plants in odd places,
we allowed some of them to flower, the proper way to deal with the
plant being to remove the flowers. It appeared highly probable
that this plant would serve two purposes, and might be worked into
one of those " chameleon " borders that Mr. Howlett used to write
about so instructively. Suppose, then, we plant it where its yellow
leaves will be appropriate from the beginning of May to the middle
of July, and then supposing other features of the scheme have
changed, and we no longer want yellow leaves alone, but white
flowers also. In such a case, here is a plant to our hands. The
flowers are small and have no particular merit ; but there are plenty
of them, and picking them ofl" is a troublesome job.
Lohelia, Indigo Blue, is one of the very best of the blue bedding
plants. No one should now grow seedling lobelias ; the very best
are far inferior to the good named varieties that are available. This
one is of a rich deep blue colour, with clear white eye. Pamila
elegans is another good lobelia, very much used this season at the
Crystal Palace and Battersea Park. It is extremely dwarf in habit,
and is quite smothered with blue flowers all the summer. White
Queen is almost a pure white, and good, but rather too robust in
habit. On the other hand, lliss Miirphy is as great a failure as
Snov-flaJcc, neither of them, as bedding plants, worth a penny per
thousand.
THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 329
JPansy, Imperial Blue. — This is a most valuable addition to the
now rich list of early-flowering hardy plants adapted for beds. It
grows freely and flowers profusely, the colour of the flower a fine
tone of blue, with dark velvet blotches. A mass of it has a very
chaste appearance, and it begins to flower in A])ril. Those who
are familiar with the best bedding pansies, will understand how
much we value this, when we say it is an improvement on Tren-
tham Blue.
Viola cornnta. — There are two varieties in the trade. One is
called Mauve Queen, and is the one sent out by Mr. Wills, of Hunt-
royde ; the other is named Farple Queen, and was ushered into note
by Mr. Bennett, of Osberton. When both of them prosper, they
are of equal value, the first being of a light slaty purple colour, the
other of an indigo tone of purple. But in the majority of cases,
Bennett's variety fails, and Wills's succeeds. Therefore any of our
readers who determine on employing Yiola cornuta largely are
advised to put their chief trust in Mauve Queen as the safest of the
two. A third variety is now added, and a very pretty one it is.
This is called Princess of Wales ; the top petals are rich lavender,
the lower ones creamy white. It is a first-rate autumnal blooming
plant, and being quite hardy, continues in bloom far into November.
!S. H.
PEACHES AND XECTAEIXES WITHOUT WALLS OR
GLASS.
AYIXG so frequently advocated the erection of suitable
houses, or of covering walls with glass, for the cultiva-
tion of peaches and nectarines, it is with peculiar
pleasure I ofter to the readers of the Floral AVorld a
few words on the cultivation of these fruits in common
garden borders ; in fact, as bushes and pyramids in the open ground,
just as apples and pears are grown every w here, I am not dreaming,
or inventing ; I wish to encourage experiment, but I wish also that
my recommendations may be received with caution. Eirst, then,
lot me relate a few facts. Every autumn for six years past I have
received from Mr. Josiah Illman, nurseryman, of Strood, near
Rochester, Kent, a basketful of ripe peaches, nectarines, and
apricots, gathered from trees growing in an open quarter of his
nursery. Generally speaking, these fruits have been good, both in
size and colour, but not equal to fruits of the same kinds from walls
and orchard-houses. Please keep it in remembrance that I have not
pronounced these to be the finest peaches and nectarines I ever
tasted. Nevertheless, they have generally been good, and some
few kinds, such as Noblesse peach and Hunt's Tawny and Red
Roman nectarines, have been on several occasions first-rate in every
respect. In 18G3, 1804, and 1SG5, the samples were fine ; in 18(56
330 THE FLOEAL WORLD A:!?D GARDEN GUIDE.
they were rather poor ; in 18G7 they were poor. The seasons have
a more marked effect on tender fruits grown without protection than
on those that are more favourably situated. In the autuam of 1805
I went to Strood to see the trees, and I was most agreeably sur-
prised, for in every respect they surpassed my expectations. I
found a plantation of large bushes averaging six feet high, and six
feet through, in perfect health, abundantly laden uith fine fruit,
which was being gathered for market, and, I was told, realized
remunerative prices. I expected to find some peculiarly favourable
circumstances, such as the protection of an old scarp of chalk on
the side of an old quarry, or some other of those accidental aids to
particular spots that here and there serve to create special climates.
I found nothing of the sort. The trees were in an open field, fully
exposed to all the winds of heaven, and I was assured that Strood,
in Kent, enjoys no immunity from the severities of winter and
spring, which in other districts render walls and houses necessary to
the cultivator of the peach. The soil is a good sandy loam, resting
on chalk, a dry soil, no doubt, but a deep sound soil, on which wheat
or cabbage would grow with vigour.
It may be asked how it came about that Mr. Ill man should
venture to make such a plantation of peaches, nectarines, and
apricots ? The answer is, that in reality he did not venture. He
did as other nurserymen do. "When the season was over, and he
had a surplus stock of potted trees, he, to save the trouble incident
to the keeping of such trees in pots all the summer, turned them
out, with the intention of potting them again in the following
autumn to be ready for sale for orchard-houses. But the trees
grew; they were left where they were another season, and they
produced a lot of fruit. Thus encouraged, he planted out a few
more, and thus it became a system at Strood to grow these fruits in
this way.
Whether the climate of the country has changed or not I have
no very decided opinion, I am for the present reluctant to believe
that this climate has changed in any material respect during a
thousand years past, but if it has I must suppose it to have been for
the better. The fact is, I am not acquainted with sufficient evidence
either way to speak with any decision on the subject. But I know,
everybody knows, that this is not the first plantation of peaches and
apricots ever made with profit to its owner. The fact is, standard
peaches and apricots were at one time common ; they are now
scarce. Ten years ago I saw some huge standard apricot trees that
bore fruit abundantly in a garden at Leatherhead, in Surre5^ Messrs.
Lee, of Hammersmith nurseries, exhibited the first fruits of their
"Royal Vineyard" peach at the great fruit show at Edinburgh, in
1865, accompanied with a statement that the oiiginal tree was a
standard that had never been protected. The first tree of the
Moor Park Apricot was a standard at Moor Park. A crowd of
examples might be collected in evidence of the former existence of
many such trees. Their present scarcity is, no doubt, owing to the
cheapness of glass of late years, and its general adoption in the
culture of choice fruits, because of the certainty of production
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 331
thereby, and the imcertaiuty of production without its aid. The
standard trees of former times were uncertain; they bore well in
p;ood seasons, and badly in bad seasons ; it is the same now. Never-
theless, these facts are submitted to our readers, in order that any
who are di:> posed to try a few of these fruits on the simple plan of
planting them in open borders may understand what is the prospect
of success. AYe hope many of our readers living in southern and
western parts of EngLand will plant a few, and give them a fair
trial. They will at least be as welcome as many other kinds of trees
for the embellishment of the garden, if the fruit is below the mark
in respect of quality. As we have spoken of standards, it is right to
add that we do not recommend standards so called, but bush trees,
such as are grafted close down to the roots, and have been allowed
to grow naturally without training. Plant them early, on well-
drained sunny borders, and have patience. Do not plant an extra-
vagant number, but look on the affair as an experiment, and in due
time let us know how you prosper. The following varieties are the
hardiest, and are most likely to succeed in gardens anywhere south
of the Trent, but north of the Trent the experiment is not likely to
succeed anywhere : —
Apricots best apapttd for Opin Bokdeks. — Allerge cle Monigamet, Blen-
heim (same as Shipley), Breda.
Peaches best adapted for Open Borders. — Sulhamstead NoUesse, Bar-
rington, Royal Vineyard^ Galande.
Nectarines best adapted for Open Borders. — Sunfs Small Tawny ^
Sardwicke^ Balgoioan. BucdeTelliers, Violetle Sative, Roman, OldNeivington.
S. H.
THE VILLA KITCHEK-GAEDEN.— i^o. V.
ET J. C. CLAEKE,
Head Gardener at Cothelston House, near Taunton.
[EANS. — The best varieties of beans are the Mazagan,
the Long Pod, and the Green Windsor. The first of
these is the best for an early crop, as if sown in Novem-
ber, it will frequently stand the winter in well drained
soils, and come very early into use. The Long Pod is
the next earliest, and by far the most productive variety, while the
Green Windsor makes an admirable late crop, and is superior to all
others when sent to table. Those for the first crop to stand through
the winter should have rather a light soil, and a somewhat sheltered
position ; but the later crops will thrive best in a deeply trenched,
well manured soil : and as spring advances, if somewhat cool and
strong, they will like the soil the better. The small Mazagan may
be sown in drills two inches deep, and two feet wide, while the
others will require a distance of thirty inches, and six inches between
the plants. If a sowing is made in November, and another again
in February, and again every three weeks after, until the beginning
332 THE FLOKAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
of June, a succession may be kept up the whole season. The after
culture consists in frequent stirrings of the soil between the rows,
and earthing them as soon as they get six inches liigh ; and when
there are about twelve or fifteen inches of expanded bloom upon the
stems, pinch out the top of the plant, this will induce them to swell
off their pods finer and more quickly.
Beetroot. — Of beetroot there are many varieties in cultiva-
vation, but the best which I have found are the Fine Apple, Nutting's
Selected, and CattelVs Dark Bed. To secure well-formed roots a rich,
open soil is necessary ; not too light in its nature, but sufficiently
pulverized to be in a kindly friable state at the time of sowing. No
root crop pays better for deep trenching than does this, for as soon
as the descending roots come in contact with a hard under-surface,
they immediately branch out, and the cultivator gets, instead of
straight, clean roots, forked and deformed ones, many times wholly
unfit for use. The time of sowing must depend upon the nature of
the soil ; if it be light, and the spot sheltered in a walled garden,
the third week in April will not be too early, but in tenacious soils,
and exposed positions, the first week in May will be as early as is
safe. The seed should be sown in drills two feet apart, and not
more than two inches deep. Look out for vermin as soon as the
plant shows itself above ground, and keep it frequently dusted with
some dry wood ashes or soot. About the middle of June it will be
fit to thin out, and this must be- done with the fingers, leaving
a distance of twelve inches between the plants. Should gaps occur,
fill them up by transplanting the strongest on a shower}^ day, and
on all favourable occasions afterwards keep the Dutch hoe in action
amongst them, to keep down the weeds. They must be taken up about
the middle of October, on a dry day, and stowed away safe from
damp and frost.
BoEECOLE, OR Kale, — Of these very useful winter and spring
greens, there is none equal to the Scotch Kale. It is true that
the Cottager's Kale is a desirable acquisition, but I question if its
claims as a vegetable are so great as the other. There are two dis-
tinct kinds of the first-named, the tall and the dwarf. I prefer the
latter myself on account of its compact growth and neat habit, which
renders it less liable to be hurt by frost. A first sowing may be
made in April, and another about the middle of May; the first
will serve for the first cutting, while the late sowing will furnish
plants to fill up any vacant ground. Later in the summer it is sur-
prising how serviceable these late plantings are to come into use in
the late spring months, when all kinds of greens are scarce. They
like deeply-stirred, richly-manured ground, and should be planted
out two feet apart each way. The same treatment will serve for the
Cottager's Kale, the Biida, or the Jerusalem Kale. In the same cate-
gory we have the Albert Sprouts and the Brussels Sprouts, but this last
I shall treat of at greater length, because where winter vegetables are
required, it is a valuable subject, and worthy of more extended culti-
vatien in every villa garden. It should, therefore, be cultivated in a
special manner. The first sowing of seed should be made on a warm
south border, at the end of March ; and when the plants are large
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. ooO
enough to handle, they should be pricked out into a rich border at
six inches apart, and should be transferred to their permanent
quarters about the middle of June. The spot should be rich and
mellow, and the under surface well stirred up some time before.
The after culture is to keep them free from weeds by frequent
hoeings, and in about six weeks after planting, the plants should
have three or four inches of soil drawn up round the stems on a dry
day. These will furnish a good supply of sprouts from the middle of
October until Christmas. A later sowing should be made at the
end of April, the plauts treated in the same way as the above, when
they come in well to take the place of some early summer crops
which are removed. These will not get so large as the above, but
they will come in well to keep up the supply after the others are
done, to say nothing of the many pickings of greens which they will
produce after they begin to grow in the early spring. It should be
borne in mind that the tops of Brussels sprouts should not be cut
until all danger of severe frost is past, as when the hearts are taken
off, it exposes a wound to the action of the frost, wiiich soon causes
the stem to decay. There is English as well as imported seed to be
bought ; the latter is generally preferred as being generally more
pure. Nevertheless, we have seen such good crops from English
seed, that we dare not say anything against it.
HAEDY FLOWEES OF THE TEAE.
GIVE you a thousand thanks for the occasional hearty
advocacy of hardy flowers in the Floeal AVorld.
Many, many amateurs, who love their gardens, have
neither time nor money to grow tender plants in any
quantity, and some who do grow them might, I am sure,
have more enjoyment than they do, if they would give more atten-
tion to beautiful subjects that thrive in any soil, and take care of
themselves entirely. Through your teachings I have been enabled
to collect an immense number of most beautiful subjects that I
should never have heard of through other works, for horticultural
writers seem to consider it their first duty to lead people into
expense, and to tread in the wake of what is called " fashion." Con-
found fashion, if it prompts me to look with disdain on a tuft of
phlox in autumn, or to contemn wallflowers in spring ; confound
fashion, if it compels me to be satiated with yellow and scarlet in
June and July, or even till the middle of September, and then leaves
me to meditnte on bare earth, like one who has been blinded by the
splendour of fireworks, and cannot walk home in safety because of
the intensity of the darkness. Do go on in this way ; let us know
more about the treasures Flora keeps in store for those who love
simple things and constant change of beauty every day of their lives.
Even now my garden is gny, the phloxes are not flowerless, the roses
are still worth cutting, the Michaelmas daisies are bright and clear,
334 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
many of the primroses are in flower, and the early chrysanthemums,
such as Berroll, are richly coloured. I now have flowers always,
and yet I watch your pages with eagerness to learn whatever you
have to teach me respecting hardy plants that I have not yet made
acquaintance with. Let us hear more and more about them. Could
vou not, for example, take the flowers of the months, say on the
basis of the lists in the " Garden Oracle " of 18G1, and so present to
us the names of all worth growing, that we may revise our garden
collections, and obtain good things of which by the aid of sach lists
w-e might find ourselves deficient ? Just observe, now, how rich we
are in flowers for all seasons without touching one tender subject.
January gives us several specie.^ of hellebore, the yellow acoiiite, and
the tussilago ; February presents us with snowdrops, daisies, marsh
marigolds, and the dandeliou, which, though a weed, is beautiful
when it first appears. In March there is an outbreak of spring
flowers — crocuses, hepaticas, alpine phloxes, arabis, large leaved
saxifrage, violets, primroses, and fifty more good things of less note.
In April all the foregoing may still be seen,' with the Star of Beth-
lehem, several buttercups (the double garden buttercup is a most
beautiful, thing), American cowslips, the small red fumitory, the
corydalis, and a few fine flowering trees, such as the red flowering
currant, the plum-leaved spirea, etc., added to make a glorious
garland. ' May is so rich in the bloom of fruit-trees that we scarcely
need anything else ; but we have the lilac and the laburnum
above, and below we find several saxifrages in flower, a few species of
symphitum, the pretty saponaria, and the oriental poppy. jS'ow
begins the joy of the florist in the bloom of polyanthus and auricula,
and the new race of double pyrethruras, are especially splendid,
and ought to be planted in quantities in every garden. In June we
have irises and pgeonies ; in July Oenotheras, portulaccas ; in August
phloxes ; in September perennial asters (one named A. eler/ans is in
bloom now, October 22, in my choicest border, and is a mo.st lovely
object — a slender bush covered with thousands of little white stars) ;
in October the Japan anemone, and that most chaste and splendid
white anemone which bears the name of Honorine Jobert. For
November you have chrysanthemums ; and the year winds up with
berries in place of flowers. Yet I can always find a few primroses,
violets, and a few of the hardy asters for the December wreath ;
and in the shrubbery, perhaps, there are flowers on the fragrant
honeysuckle (L./ragantissimcf), and the Dauric rhododendron, and
perhaps the garrya may be in flower, in which case I am rich indeed.
We want — at least I want, I am sure Others want^to see good lists,
and large lists, of hardy plants, for too many who would grow them
know not what to grow ; and if you take up the subject, we know it
will be dealt with in a sound, practical, useful manner.
JSorwich. W. Fellowes.
[We are preparing lists of all the best hardy herbaceous plants for the next
issue of the " Garden Oracle," a work better adapted for the purpose than the
Floral Woeld, as its arrangements admit of a complete presentation of the
subject, and the concentration of a large mass of information in a small compass.
— S. H.]
335
IBERIS, OE CANDYTUPT.
[TIE gardening world raust look with no little interest at
the old-fashioned, neglected things that are, from time
to time, resuscitated from the oblivion into wliich caprice
or indifference has cast them. Tastes and prejudices in
floral matters will, perhaps, always vary and fluctuate
as fashions do; and if I may judge by the inquiries made after
many of our old-fashioned plants, as noticed in the Floea.l AVoeld
from time to time, a reaction is decidedly taking place in favour of
the old plants of our gardens. May I be allowed to make a few
remarks on some plants, about which as yet you have said nothing,
and on some of which you have not said enough. The Iberis is
amongst the latter. These plants, of which I. sempervirens may be
taken as a type, are in reality evergreen shrubs. I shall only
notice two or thre:; kinds, merely to show not only their beauty,
but their utility, even in the most refined parterres.
To commence with I. sempervirens. This is, perhaps, one of the
freest flowering plants on earth — a very mountain of snow; a
thousand heads of bloom, of the most intense whiteness, would be
but a low computation on a well-managed specimen ; but it must be
managed — which is very simply done — so as to make it highly
ornamental in spring, and a beautiful object in mid-winter. The
plant, if left to itself, soon assumes a straggling, untidy kind of
habit ; to counteract which, and to render the plant worthy of any
place, an annual pruning is necessary. The moment the plant
begins to look seedy, take the shears and clip it closely over, and
reduce it to what size you choose, which may vary from one foot to
two, according to position and the effect desired. No plant bears
clipping better ; it soon forms a beautiful compact evergreen bush,
and in the latter character is as telling in mid-winter as its profuse
flowering is in spring. A score or so of this plant, systematically
planted, would lighten up the finest garden at a very early season,
if allowed to form a permanent part of the design. A nobleman's
gardener lately told me it was a beautiful plant, but of no use, as
he had always to life i.t before it had done blooming, to make room
for the geraniums, etc. "What a folly !
The next variety we shall notice is Iberis corlfoUa, or coris-
leaved. This plant has lately become deservedly popular, though it
is not new, having been introduced about 140 years ago ; it is, per-
haps, the finest of the tribe, decidedly shrubby, and should be well
stopped in when young, as the plant would otherwise become
straggling. Individually it is most beautiful, either as a pot plant
for exhibition, or a first-class plant for the border, but does not
bloom with the freedom of I. sempervirens, and therefore less adapted
for display as a grouping plant.
The last plant of the tribe I shall notice is I. garrexiana ; and
looking at tlie plant in all particulars, we may say the last shall be
first, for lighting up the darkness and clothing the nakedness of our
flower-gardens in spring, flowering, as it does, even in the north of
336 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
England, in early April, and therefore may be thrust aside in May,
so as to leave a clear stage for the scarlet and yellow. It is the
dwarfest- growing of the tribe, barely reaching ei^ht inches high.
When in flower, forming a low evergreen mass, at all times sheeted
over in spring with the purest of white. If liberally planted, it has
a very cheerful effect in spring ; or may be used advantageously as
an edging to the larger beds, giving a ring of snow in April and
May, and ditto of green the rest of the year. Unlike sciupervirens,
or corifolia, this may be propagated by division. Growing close to
the ground, every branch becomes rooted, and a medium-sized plant
will break up into twenty or more. Thos. Williams.
Bath Lodge, Ormskirk.
THE PHLOX AS A BEDDING PLANT.
|E do not suppose that by penning this paper we shall
diminish the popularity that our bedding plants have
attained as more suitable for this purpose, because
there are yet some great guns to be silenced, and a
formidable force to contend against, which must receive
a check before we can hope to see any chance of their retreating to
their old quarters (the herbaceous border) ; but nevertheless we are
sano-uine of living to see that day — not that we shall rejoice at their
downfall ; we shall rather hasten to assist them in their dilemma,
because we can offer them the condolence of long-tried friends, and
we shall be deceived if these do not rise higher in the estimation of
all true lovers of flowers, and thus in the end the herbaceous border
will be the gainer, because old advocates will return more enthu-
siastically than ever, and young innovators will set to work in
earnest, because to them it will open up a wide field of operations
in which their genius can be turned to a profitable account. We
think no apology is requisite for introducing this subject. AVe shall
therefore suggest a few plants as suitable to that style of gardening,
but which we seldom see used for that purpose ; and the subject for
this paper, as will be seen above, is the Phlox, and we do not hesi-
tate to say in a mass it is one of the grandest and most showy of
our herbaceous plants — so much so that we believe only those who
have seen it as we saw it at Messrs. Wood and Sons' Nursery, at
Maresfield, can form an idea of the grand effect it produces.
Although it is novr a little more than three years since we saw them
at the above nursery, the impression they made on our mind is still
fresh in our memory, and we think never will be quite eftaced. As
well as we can remember, we think there were four beds six feet
wide, and some twenty yards in length, with four rows in a bed.
Now let the reader imagine, if he can, the gorgeous display that
these would produce through the months of July and August, com-
puting at the lowest number that each bed cgntained at the time I
saw them (July) oOO spikes of flowers, and these possessing all the
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 337
intermediate shades between crimson, white, and purple, and moat
of them presenting a distinct and conspicuous eye. We venture to
say that a more pleasing sight never greeted the horticultural eye ;
and whether it was the peculiar treatment they received here, or
whether it was that the soil is more suitable for them, we do not
know, but certain it is, we have never seen them in such perfection
elsewhere.
Now it must not be inferred that we expect they can be grown so
extensively in private places, but there are many large establish-
ments where they may be had in such numbers as to give a very
striking effect, and we do not doubt but that to many it would be a
very agreeable change, for the eye gets tired of continuously look-
ing upon long rows of scarlet geraniums. Then as to the occupants
of small places, they must not think that they are to be excluded
from growing this beautiful summer plant ; and for their special
purpose we give here the names of four varieties, the effect of which,
if planted two rows deep round a circular bed, we are sure would
be magnificent. A centre of five plants of Colonel Dundas, purple
centre ; two rows Countess of Moreton, white ; two rows Rigoletto,
bright crimson ; two rows Dwarf Variegated. We should much like
to see this arrangement carried out on a ribbon border, and if the
same liberal treatment of copious drenchings of water were given,
the same as for bedding plants, we have no hesitation in saying the
result would be highly satisfactor}'.
The Phlox will grow in almost any soil, but a moderately dry
friable loam is the best for it, which should be rich and porous, as
stagnant water is fatal to its fleshy roots. It requires some support
when grown in exposed situations, and as a precaution against a wet
and cold winter, they should be taken up about the first week in
November, and be stowed away under a stage in a greenhouse, and
preserved from the drip, and to be plantsd out again about the last
week in March. A very troublesome enemy to the young growth,
just as it has appeared above ground, is the little red ant, but about
a tablespoonful of soot shaken round the plants will soon disperse
them. They are very readily propagated by divisions of the roots,
or by taking off the stems at the crown of the plant when they have
o^rown to about the length of three inches. If these are placed in a
little bottom-heat, they will soon emit roots, when they may be
hardened ofi' and planted out, but should not be sufiered to flower
the first year. If we were about getting up a collection, we would
purchase next spring all the varieties we intended to grow, and then
place them in a suitable spot in the kitchen garden, supply them
plentifully with liquid manure, and keep all flowering stems pinched
back to the height of twelve inches; this would cause a greater
action at the roots, and thus enable us the following spring to divide
them into three or four parts each. Calvekt Claeke.
YOL. II. — NO. XI. 23
338
THEEE aROUPS OF GOOD EOSES.
fOST people who set about planting that most essential
element of a garden, a rose-bed, would like to secure
for it the best roses of the prevailing tints of colour, and
accordingly their first proceeding is to send for a cata-
logue from one of tlie leading nurserymen, and plunge
into the intricacies of the descriptions of the four or five hundred
roses specified. The result is not always satisfactory. Let us,
therefore, the present time being very opportune for sending out
orders, try and make a few selections of groups likely to suit in-
quirers.
GrEOUP No. 1. — Anna Alexieff, fresh rosy pink, very free
flowering, elegant foliage. General Jacqueminot^ rich scarlet crimson,
also very free flowering, too well known to need recommendation.
Emotion (a Bourbon perpetual), white, with a pink centre, also free
flowering. Charles Lefehvre, dark velvet scarlet, shaded with black
towards the bottom of the petals ; this is in all respects the best
rose grown. Princess Mary of Camhridge, a most excellent globular
pink blush, very diflerent to Anna Alexiefl* in form and colour.
John Hopper, intensely bright light crimson centre, graduating
towards the outside petals to a lilac pink. This group will do any-
where with ordinary attention and cultivation.
Geotjp No. 2. — Alfred Colomh, true crimson, with every good
quality, form particularly lovely. Souvenir de la Malmaison (Bourhon,
but always in bloom), externally white, flesh-coloured centre ; this
is the finest light rose known. Iladame 3Ioreau, a lustrous dark
crimson, with petals curiously folded, velvety and eff"ective. Gloire
de Dijon, yellow buff* and pink, everywhere cultivated, or at least it
ought to be. Madame Victor Verdier, cerise crimson, with the
faintest tint of violet, a noble rose. Oomtesse de Ohahrilland, light
pink, one of the most perfect of roses, if highly manured and pro-
perly attended to. N.B. This group consists of magnificent large
roses, which require only to be seen to be highly admired, and like
most other good things, they demand good cultivation, which means
good siij^loam, strong manure, and careful planting, and that surely
is not asking for much.
Geoup No. 3. — Dtcchesse de Morny, true rose colour, the finest
and most stately of its colour. Frincc. Camille de JRohan, maroon
and scarlet, very fine in all respects. Marguerite de St. Amand, light
pink, centre a little more intense, probably the finest light rose after
Souvenir de la Malmaison. Maurice Bernardin, scarlet, with a faint
tinge of violet ; lovely colour. William Griffiths, glossy pink, an
old rose, but not likely to be excelled, but N.B., order this specially
on a dwarf briar. Pierre Nottincj, dark crimson, deeply shaded with
violet, a noble globular flower. This group also requires high cul-
tivation. ''
These three groups are sure to please most people, and arranged
in three separate beds will aff*ord a feast of flowers.
YlATOE.
339
WEEPING TREES.
ANT fine breadths of grass in villa gardens are made un-
sightly, or considerably less attractive than they might
be, through the lack of interesting trees and shrubs of a
character suitable to the position. In some of the fine
old gardens we see huge clumps of Rhododendron, Por-
tugal Laurel, and Lauristinus, and when these are surrounded with
great breadths of open grass, and judiciously disposed so as to improve
rather than obscure the views, there can be nothing to surpass them
for grandeur. We could name a few gardens near London where
clumps of these evergreens have grown to such dimensions, and with
such perfect symmetry, as to be worthy of enumeration among the
grandest horticultural spectacles, as we could name others where
attempts at similar effects have completely failed, and all that can be
found in proof of the original intentions of the planter, are scrubby,
shapeless masses, consisting of myriads of bare stems with shapeless
heads of foliage, plentifully intermingled with dead wood and gross
branches that have grown with a will of their own, and project
beyond the general outlines like the boughs of oak that are thrust
out of the windows of taverns on "Royal Oak Day." The fact is,
to decorate a lawn a considerable amount of taste is required. The
scene it opens upon must be first thought of, and its surroundings
are of scarcely less importance. Where there is a fine panorama of
open country beyond, it would be an outrageous thing to block it
out with a wall of vegetation, however fine that might be ; but every
one accustomed to criticise the characteristics of artificial and natural
scenery must have observed that when seen through suitable openings
among umbrageous vegetation, distant views have oftentimes a charm
which would be lost were there no interruptions to the line of vision,
and we may sometimes gain variety by partly obscuring a view, so as
to reveal it partially at first, and compel the spectator to traverse the
grounds in order to pass beyond the objects by which it is partially
obscured, in order to obtain an uninterrupted view. It is for such a
purpose that evergreen trees and shrubs of massive character are
mostly valuable on lawns, and it will be found as a rule that they tell
with best effect in the composition when removed to some distance
from the foreground of the picture. Probably the finest tree we
possess for distinct landscape effects is the Wellingtonia, but a belt
of Wellingtonias on the ridge of a hill, or as a boundary to a tame
prospect, would probably be little more effective than a belt of Scotch
pine ; for in such positions the eye is not so much concerned in tracing
distinctive forms and characters, as in resting on the breadth of deep
green verdure, and enjoying it as a mass, irrespective altogether of
its elementary features. A great mistake is oftentimes committed in
landscape gardening in plantnig trees of deep colours and heavy out-
lines toj near the dwelling, for this system almost precludes the use
of the lighter and more graceful forms of vegetation, which are
suitable chiefly for the foreground, and show their outlines and
340 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
elegant traceries to much more purpose when contrasted against
heavy masses placed beyond thera. As the season of planting is near
at hand, we purpose to name a few subjects adapted to light up gar-
den scenes, and lend a peculiar beauty and interest to the lawns ;
and we are the more concerned to call attention to these because we
see many examples of the misuse of the more sombre materials, the
result being frequently an apparent contraction of the space allotted
for the pleasure grounds, and a monotony arising from the compara-
tive sameness of the forms and colours.
It is of course impossible in any general remarks on such a
subject to indicate precisely the best modes of using any particular
tree, still there are certain principles of general applicability, and one
of these requires that there shall be perfect congruity between an
object and the associations that belong to the spot it occupies. Thus
one of the most elegant of la^n trees is the American weeping willow,
which by its very name and character may always be much more
appropriately placed near water than on a high dry bank or archi-
tectural terrace. Its very appearance reminds the spectator of water,
and at first sight of the tree he may reasonably look around him to
discover if he has come unawares to the border of a lake, or the
neighbourhood of a fountain. But given the proper accessories, and
there is no tree in our gardens that can surpass in grace and liveli-
ness of character the Salix Americana penduJa, and in the form of a
standard it is the most suitable tree that can be chosen for a fountain,
as the Kilmarnock weeping willow, S. cap-ea ijeyuhda, is equally at
home on the margin of a lake or stream. Leaving the aquatic scenes,
and considering what may be called the every-day wants of amateur
gardeners, we shall here recommend a few of the most elegant weep-
ing trees suitable for conspicuous positions on lawns, at angles of
intersecting walks, and to mingle with the less formal scenery of the
" banks andbraes " in gardens. There are several beautiful pendulous
varieties of elm, of which, perhaps, the most elegant is the Scampston
weeping elm, JJlmus montana pendida nova, a great improvement on
the better known and much admired T7. montana pendula. Of this
Scampston elm there is a variety with variegated leaves, which has a
remarkably elegant appearance when placed in a good position on a
broad sweep of lawn. For the fronts of shrubberies, and to beautify
a slope or half wild position, the small-growing Tllmus viminalis,
and its variegated form, are admirably adapted, and these may be
known by their slender twiggy character, and their small leaves, in
this respect being distinct from all other elms known. Where a
single weeping tree is required to "stand upon its own merits," or it
is desirable to X-)lant a pair which shall command attention for dis-
tinctness and beauty, Sophora J aponica pendida has no equal. This
tree is a native of Japan, and belongs to the Leguminous order,
being closely allied to the laburnum. It produces dark green
pinnated leaves, and when worked standard high grows somewhat in.
the form of an umbrella nearly closed, the long branches hanging
down all round the stem in an almost perpendicular direction. If
we had room only for one pair of weeping trees on a lawn, we are
inclined to think our final choice would fall upon Sophora Japonica
THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 341
pendula. Where there is sufficient skill for the task of growing
Wistaria sinetisis as a weeping standard tree, it makes a grand feature
on a lawn, and blooms so profusely as in some seasons to be as densely
covered with its purple racemes as a specimen of Cytisus or an
exhibition Azalea. But it must have room, the stem must be sup-
ported by a stake, the growth must be led on light supports in the
directions necessary to form the proper outliues, and the subsequent
growth must be pinched in from the middle of June to the middle of
July, or it will soon grow out of bounds, and become an almost inex-
tricable confusion. There are a few other varieties of well known
trees which deserve attention for their elegantly pendulous habit.
The weeping limes, poplars, oaks, and beeches have their several
distinctive characters ; but amongst them the palm for distinctness
and beauty must be awarded to two of the poplars — Fopulus canescens
pendula and P. tremiila ijendula, the constant agitation of the leaves
of the last-named, together with its fine weeping habit, render it a
most interesting subject, and its beauty comes out fully when its
light tints and graceful outlines are assisted by dark backgrounds of
more massive timber. Of the beeches, Fagiis pendida nova is the
most pendulous habited, and is a proper subject for a grand style of
planting, but of no use at all in a small garden. The most distinctly
pendulous oak is Qucrcus pednncnlafa pendula, a very lively tree,
combining grace with majesty. The weeping Turl^ey oak, Q. cerris
pendula, is a great beauty. We are not fond of the ash, and rarely
derive any pleasure from its aspect in gardens ; but as the ash has a
fame in woodcraft, it is well we can introduce two very elegant weep-
ing varieties in addition to the well-known weeping ash of the London
gardens. The common weeping ash is Fraxinus excelsior pendida, a
truly noble tree when well grown, and the best for giving shade to a
resting-place ; but with Londoners it is not now in very high repute,
owing to its frequent use in tavern-gardens, where it is generally
associated with tawdry rockeries and little dens called '* arbours,"
dedicated to drinking and riot. Considered apart from such scenes,
it is a truly noble tree, and well worth the care necessary to train out
the growth in the formation of a gigantic umbrella of its large deep
green leaves and rigid branches. It is, however, quite surpassed in
beauty by two variegated-barked varieties — F. excelsior argentea pen-
dula, and F. excelsior aurea pevdida, the one having a silvery, aud the
other a golden-coloured bark. The bright colours of the young twigs
of these varieties have a very curious eftect, as the tracery of the
whole of the tree appears to be picked out in bright lines, and this
tends greatly to relieve the stiffness and formality peculiar to the
weeping ash. The weeping walnut, Juglans regia pendida, is not to
be recommended for choice purposes. It is a noble tree, but should
only be planted where it can grow to a large size and form timber in
the proper sense of the word.
Having in view only the best among hundreds of varieties of trees
of more or less pendulous growth, we shall name only one more of
deciduous habit, and that is the weeping thorn, Crataegus pendula
nova, a very elegant lawn tree, and a proper companion to standard
weeping roses, which scarcely need mention, for no one could forget
342 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
them in calling over the subjects best adapted for embellishing a
lawn. But we must add to ail these deciduous subjects one evergreen,
the weeping holly, of which there are two distinct varieties — Ilex
aquifolium pendula^ a variety of the common green holly truly pendu-
lous in habit, and a very pretty object in winter ; and the variegated
weeping holly, Ilex aquifolium pendulum variegatum, which was
brought out a few years since by Perry, of Banbury. This last is
the most beautiful evergreen shrub known, and as well adapted
for the smallest garden as for the largest. C. W.
TEEATMENT OE LTJCULIA GEATISSIMA.
ATTJEALLY, this species is of luxuriant growth, making
a few shoots, which grow to a great length, and conse-
quently it is not by any means a bushy plant. After it
has flowered, or, indeed, before the flowers are well fallen,
these branches produce several shoots near the apex, all
the lower buds remaining dormant ; and hence the plant is left bare
of leaves and shoots, for, perhaps, more than half its height. And
if this is continued for two or three years, the growing powers of the
plant are impaired, owing to the large quantity of useless old wood
that consumes the sap necessary to support new growths. From
this many cultivators have concluded that, to have good specimens,
a fresh stock of young plants is neces^ary every year, and on that
supposition have discarded the old ones. Now, although it is
undoubtedly highly desirable to have a number of young plants to
flower as dwarf specimens, it is quite as much, if not more desirable,
to have large bushy specimens furnished with branches to the surface
of the pots ; and this can only be done by preserving the old plants.
The great error in their management is the fear of using the knife
freely. It is only by pruning, and severe pruning, that the naturally
straggling: character of the old plants can be overcome, and reduced
to the desired bushiness. Instead of allowing the uppermost buds
on the preceding summer's growth to furnish the shoots for the
succeeding season, the old branches should be cut away to within an
inch or two of their base. Thus, two or three, or perhaps four
branches, will be obtained from each near the point from which only
one or two sprang the preceding year ; consequently, the number of
shoots will be yearly increasing, and instead of becoming naked at
the base, and of a scattered growth, the bushiness will be continu-
ally augmented.
This character, however, may be carried to excess, even with the
Luculia\ for if too many shoots are permitted to form, they will
prevent one another from acquiring that degree of vigour which is
necessary to produce a good head ot bloom. Besides, the large size
of the foliage demands a proportionate space for their exposure to
Ught, and, if they are crowded, the loss of the interior and lower ones
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 343
will be the inevitable result. Another error wliich necessarily ewsuea
from permitting the uppermost buds to remaia is, that as they have
mostly begun to grow before the flowers are withered, the plants are
deprived of their season of repose, and kept in a continual state of
excitement. But, when pruned back to the lower buds, they may
be placed in a cool .place, and left without any water till the begin-
ning or middle of February. Sometimes, before they are again
excited, a quantity of the earth should be shaken out from the roots,
and fresh compost supplied. A rich loam, full of decaying vegetable
fibre, and a third part of leaf-mould, makes an excellent mixture for
them. When good peat can be easily procured, a portion may be
added, but it is by no means indispensable.
A great mistake is committed by putting in heat immediately
after they are potted. It is quite necessary to leave them a week or
two in a cool place, that the buds may acquire additional vigour, and
the plant be storing up sap to feed them when they are once more
wanted to grow. Moreover, some of the roots will certainly be
damaged in clearing them of the old earth and re-potting, and if the
plants are removed too suddenly to a high temperature, the buds will
begin growing before the roots are in a condition to convey a suffi-
ciency of nourishment to support them. A pit, where a temperature
of from 60 to 70 degs. can be maintained — according to the external
weather and the advancement of the season, together with a propor-
tionate humidity, is far preferable to a hous^e during the first stages
of growth. A rather liberal supply of water will be needful, and a
gentle circulation of air. As the season advances towards midsummer,
more and more air should be given, and the sun must never be
allowed to shine fully upon them, as it is injurious to the young and
tender foliage. After the middle of July a pit is no longer necessary,
and the plants will be benefited by being removed to the shade of a
north wall, where they can also be sheltered from strong winds.
Here they may be permitted to remain till the beginning of Sep-
tember, by which time every branch will be crowned with a tuft of
flower-buds, and they will need no other heat to develop them than
what is aftbrded by a close pit. Indeed it is a very pernicious practice
to give them much heat, for the flowers will be larger, and stronger,
and better coloured, as well as able to last for a longer period, if
slowly and steadily brought on till they expand ; and, moreover, the
leaves will have time to gain a fuller green.
It will be seen, then, by the foregoing observations, that the
ordinary method of growing them in a stove is far from being the
most appropriate. The plants are by that method rendered so
tender, that they will scarcely endure the temperature of the green-
house whilst in fiower. Another evil is, that whilst the flowers are
inferior, the length of the stems is increased to a weakening degree.
The resources of the plants are thus drawn upon in an increased
ratio to furnish nourishment to that which, so far from being an
improvement to the appearance of the specimens, is decidedly a
detraction from their beauty, and at the same time an injury to their
constitution. The main reason for giving them a situation, when
they are removed from the pit, where they may be continually
344 THE FLOEAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
shaded from the sun, is because a full exposure robs the leaves of
their bright green colour. They will, nevertheless, in spite of this
precaution, though to a less extent, assume a reddish tinge, but after
they are returned to the pit they will have time to recover their
green hue before the flowers open. "While these remarks, however,
exhibit the essential elements of good culture, in reference to small
specimens, the Luculia must not be considered unsusceptible of
being grown to a large size, in proper conditions. Like the Hydrangea,
it will become an ugly object when allowed to grow more than two
feet high, if it be not frequently pruned. But, when pruning is
regularly practised, it can be made to reach the height oi Jive or sm
feet, and yet retain an ornamental character. IndeeH, a good speci-
men of this height is a most maijnificent thing while the flowers
are open.
To cultivate the Luculia to any size, it wants planting iu the bed
or border of a conservatory, where it will be sufiiciently shaded to
prevent the sun beating fiercely upon its leaves, and jet not alto-
gether deprived of a large amount of indirect light. It should also
be put where a current of cold air can never play round it, and then,
provided it be planted in generous soil, well drained, and yet capable
of being kept moist enough to maintain a rather damp atmosphere
around the plant, it will flourish with a luxuriance that is seldom
witnessed, and bloom in a very splendid manner.
After two or three years' growth in the same soil, a mulching of
well-pulverized manure will be of the greatest assistance to the plant,
and this should be liberally continued in every subsequent season.
Wood ashes or charcoal would be an excellent thing to mix with the
compost in which it is placed, whether in a pot or border ; and broken
stone might be substituted when they cannot be obtained. The
species, being peculiarly liable to suflTer from over-watering, or from
standing water, some such appliance to draining is particularly
desirable. The charcoal and ashes would likewise be useful in a
nutritive point of view. P. M.
PEACH-HOUSES, AND PEACH-TREES THAT HAVE
ERUITED.
Vekt much has been written upon the culture of the Peach and management of
the Peach-house, I feel it would be needless for me to enter into details ; but there
is one point which is generally overlooked by gardeners in tbeir advice under this
head ; the directions hold good up to the time the fruit is ripe, and nothing more is
said upon their culture till frost sets in. Many naturally suppose the house may be
left to take care of itself till the leaves are off, and the sooner that takes place the
better. But such is a great mistake. 1 am convinced that after the fruit is gathered
is the critical time with them ; every root has been taxed to its utmost to perfect
the fruit, therefore, in order to insure a supply for the coming year, constitutional
vigour must be replaced. As soon as the fruit is gathered the trees sliould have a
thorough washing down with clear soot-water, and also a thorough watering at the
root, and two or three days after another watering with weak liquid manure, and
the ground sprinkled over with dry soot. If tlie house is shut up early the wood
will ripen far better than by leaving the trees exposed to the cold autumnal nights,
and the soot from the ground will impregnate the atmosphere of the house, keeping
down insects, and be very healthful to the trees. Keep the leaves in health as long
as possible, and lewater if required. H. S., Yeovil.
345
BEEBERIS JAPONICA, CONCINNA, POETUNEI, ETC.
S the following fact worthy of your notice ? On the 17th of last June I
gathered some berries from Berheris Japonica, and gave them to Mr.
Masters, whose head gardener sowed them on the same day, placing
them in a hothouse. In less than six weeks these berries produced
young seedlings, whicli are now about two inches high ; the berries
were planted whole, and some of them produced tbree plants each. I believe it
genei-aily takes a year or more to produce plants from the berries ; if so, the growth
in the present instance is something remarkable. In several gardens that 1 have
visited this vear 1 liave found B. Japonica in very poor condition; the plants stunted,
leaflets small, broken, and discoloured ; evidently no attention had been paid to
either soil or situation. I have nearly two dozen plants, all growing most luxuri-
antly ; one in particular has very large leaflets, some of them measuring five inches
by four, larger than the palm of a large hand. This success is no duubt owing to my
following your directions, given in the August number of 1862 of the Floral World,
I have used plentv of rotten dung, with sand and turfy loam, and late in the last
autumn placed round each plant a mulch of rather fresh stable manure, the best part
of which the rains washed gradually down to the roots. In fact, the soil can
scarcely be too rich, and I fancy that'^ nearly all the species of Berberis will thrive
under similar treatment. There is only oneVault that I can find with B. Japonica,
and that is, when placed in front of shrubberies the leaders bend forward to the
light, spreading the leaves out like a fan, instead of bearing them horizontally.
I hear that B. Japonica, as it is commonly called, is a native of China, this
species not being known in Japan. I find it called in Johnson's "Gardener's Dic-
tionary " Beali planifolia. Mr. Standish has a new Berberis which is really a
native of Japan ; he has not yet sent out any of the young plants, nor is the species
even named.
Do you know B. steno-phylla ? I bought a plant from Mr. Bull, of Chelsea, last
spring, and it has since made a shoot nearly four feet in length, and thicker than
the main stem. In this rapidity of growth stenophylla seems to take after its
parent Darwinii, a plant of which in my garden has this summer sent up a very
stout shoot upwards of five feet in height. I find it very difl[icult to procure some oi
the rarer species of Berberis. I applied to the nurserymen recommended by you in
the Septeniber number, and find that I can obtain B. Jamesonii from one of them,
but for B. macrophijlla I must send all the way to Exeter. One firm wrote to say
tliat they once cult"^ivated all the species, but at last throw them away, as there w^as
no demand for them.
1 was looking at one of my plants of 5. concimia (Himalaya) this morning, and
was surprised to find some fe'w beriies on it, and still more surprised to find them
scarlet. With the exce])tion of B. vulgaris, I believe all the Berberries have pur-
ple fruit; if so, the variety is worth noticing. I inclose a leaf and berries of B.
concinna, also a leaf and berries of B. vulgaris, in order that ycu may compare
thi m without being put to the trouble of sending into your garden.
I also inclose tlie old and new leaves of a Berberis called B. m7^w, which 1
received this morning from Messrs. Lucombe and Pince, of Exeter. It is evidently
only a variety of ^. aquifolium, but a very marked one, in the highly varuished-like
appearance ol the old leaves, and in the rich bioiize of the young leaves. I have
ordered one, as I feel almost certain that it will propagate easily by suckers, like aqui-
folium, and prove a useful variety in the shrubbery.
In Aiigust, 1862, you wrote in Elor.u. World with regard to B. Fortunei, "I
have never seen it in bloom." Inclosed is a specimen of the first plant that I have
Been in bloom, by which yon will observe that the flowers are produced in upright
spikes. The probability is, that since you wrote the above you have seen plenty of
these plants in bloom, and my communication turn out to be rather too late. I liave
now succeeded in procuring every species of evergreen Berberis, with the exception
of B. trifurca. 1 had to send to Exeter for B. macrophylla. J- J-
[We liave been greatly interested in our correspondent's success in collecting and
cultivating the species of Berberis, the result, he informs us, of a passion aioused by
the perusal of an article on the subject in the Floral World of August, 1862. We
have many times seen the flowers of B. Fortunei since 1862, but find that it is only as
846 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
a pot plant we can really keep it at Stoke Newington, for in severe winters it perishes
in the open ground. B. nitens is probably a garden hybrid, largely indebted to B.
aquifolium for its existence. When rambling through the rockery at Messrs.
Lucombe, Pince, and Co.'s nursery, in the spring of the present year, we saw several
new seedling hybrids of Mr. Pince's raising, which J. J. would no doubt like to see
too. B. trifurca is scarce ; the last time we saw it was at Messrs. E. G. Henderson
and Sons, St. John's Wood ; the plant stood six feet high, and was in a large pot.
The most useful of all at Stoke Newington is B. fascicularis hybrida, which forms a
very handsome bush.]
NEW PLANTS.
ELPHINIUM Triomphe de Poxtoise {Floral 3Iag., t. 314).— Ranun-
culacese. A beautiful hardy plant, with double flowers of a pale
azure colour. A valuable addition to this useful class of plants.
Passiflora. FULGENS, Shining Passion- Floiver {Belg. Hort. xvi. 193,
t. 13). — Passifloraceee. A handsome stove climber, with leaves like
those of the oak, and rich scarlet flowers.
SiPHOCAMPYLis FCLGENS, Shining Siphocampylus (Flo?'. Mag., t. 313). —
Lobeh'acese. A handsonae stove herb, with ovate leaves and axillary tubular flowers
of a rich orange scarlet colour.
Saccolabioi gigaxteum. Gigantic Saccolahium (Gard. Chron. 1867, 26). —
Orchidaceas. " The ^S". giganteum was for a long time a fabulous plant, very ill-
known from ugly, shrivelled flowers collected in jungles in Burmah by the late Dr.
Wallich. Now at length it is to be had in the nursery of Messrs, Veitch. The
flowers are nearly of the same shape as those of S. violaceum, but larger. Both
sepals and petals are cream-coloured, the petals bearing a row of amethyst-coloured
dots. The lip is of a very intense amethyst colour, enlivened by some darker
amethyst-coloured streaks over the veins."
Aquilegia pyrexiaca, Columbine of the Pyrenees {Flor. Mag., t. 322). —
Ranunculacese. A beautiful dwarf herbaceous plant, resembling A. alpina, but
smaller and with fewer flowers, these being comparatively large, and of a pale
lavender blue.
AxrcuBA Japoxica graxdidextata maculata, Aucuha loith leaves deeply
toothed and spotted {Neerl. Plant., t. 28). — Cornacese. A handsome variety of
this well-known shrub, and one which bears berries freely when fertilized.
.Azalea, Her Majesty. — A beautiful variety, of average size and fine form,
the colour soft lilac blush, shading to white at the margin, and irregularly striped
with purple.
Corysaisthes picta {Neerl. Plant., t, 25). — Orchidacece. A curious terrestrial
stove orchid, with a solitary cordate ovate leaf, and a nearly sessile bilabiate flower,
the colours of which are deep purple and yellow.
Desmodium penduliflorum, Pendulous-Flowered Desmodium {Neerl. Plant.
1866, t. 2). — Leguminosoe. A hardy shrub, growing five to six feet high, with tri-
foliate leaves and axillary racemes of small purplish flowers. It is eminently grace-
ful and ornamental.
Odontoglossum astranthum {Gard. Chron.y 1867, 404). — A panicled species,
like O. odoratum, but it has the novel feature of a fringed anther bed. Its advent
breaks down the proposed section, Tyrmenium of Bateman, by connecting that
group directly with O. odoratuyn.
Nanones medusa {Gard. Chron., 1867, 432), — Orchidacese. A curious/beau-
tifal, and quite novel orchid from South America. The sepals and petals are ligu-
late, the lip is large, sub-rotund, and richly fringed on the margin.
Odoxtoglossum TRroMPHAxs {Gard. Chron., 1867, ol6).— This is proposed
(H. G. Rech, fil.) as the permanent name of an orchid, otherwise known as O. HaUii
and O. speetatissimum. It is a fine thing, the pure golden yellow of the flower is
revived (? relieved) by the dark crimson brown blotches. The lip is nearly white,
with some brownish blotches, but it occurs also yellowish.
Phajcs inquilixus {Gard. Chron., 1867, 544).— One of Mr. Dominy's hybrids,
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN auIDE. 347
tlie parentage of which is unknown. The flowers are cream colour, the three keels
of the lio yellowish white.
CiRRHOPETALVM Papudii {Ncerl Plant., 1866, t. 4-5).— Orchidaceae. A
curious stove epiphyte, with a creeping rhizome, compressed pseudo bulbs, solitary
elliptical leaves and flower-scapes, cont?^., t. 529). — Bromeliaceae. A beautiful stove
plant with ligulate leaves, which are at first whitish, and afterwards change to
green, with brown blotches. The flowers are of a pale greyish blue.
Sedcm Japoxicum (G^arifew;?., t. 513,3). — Crassulacese. A half hardy peren-
nial, with spathulate green leaves, and terminal cymes of yellow flowers.
Sedum Maximowiczii {Gartenfl., t. 528). — A hardy plant allied to S. aizoon.
It grows a foot high, the leaves are toothed, the flowers in cymes, bright yeUow.
OxciDiUii NUBiGExuM, Cloudy Oticidium {Gard. Chron., 1867, 376).— Orchi-
daceae. " A gay little plant, with spikes of flowers appearing as if they were dimi-
nutives of Odontoglossum PhalcBnopsis. The petals and sepals are brownish, with
a crimson hue ; the lip is subject to many variations.
Epidendrum amethystixtjm {Gard. Chron., 1867, 376). — OrchidacesD. A
f5mall but graceful epiphyte, with short raceme, bearing about a dozen amethyst-
coloured flowers, nearly as large as those of Rodriguezia secimda.
Epidendrum EBURXEuii, Ivory-like Epidendrum {Gard. Chron., 1867, 404),
— An elegant i^lant, with yellowish green sepals and petals, and a snow-white lip.
Odontoglossum Tcrocatum {Gard. Chron., 1867, 404).— This is in the way of
O. concolor, but there are more flowers, and they are smaller, and of a very bright
yellow.
Odontoglossum RosEUM (G^art^. Chron., 1867, 404). — This may be compared
to Rodriguezia secunda, but the largish flowers are of a rich rosy purple, and the
three-lobed lip is paler.
Nasonia cinnabarina {Gard. Chron., 1867, 544). — A terrestrial orchid of
humble growth, producing beautiful scarlet flowers. It is a native of high moun-
tain ranges in South America, and therefore will require cool treatment.
DoDECATHEON ^ ETTKEYi, Jeffrey' s American Cotoslip {Flore des Serves, t, 1662).
— PrimnlacejE. A beautiful hardy perenniil, with lanceolate leaves and umbels of
nodding rose-coloured flowers.
Griffinia hyacinthina maxima {Flore des Sevres, t. 1667). — Amaryllidaceae.
THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 373
A handsome stove bulb, the leaves are ovate-oblong, the flowers wliite, banded
with blue.
IIydranoea. paniculata grandiflora {Flore des Sevres, t. 1665).— A hne
half hardy shrub, with elliptic leaves and large branched pyramidd panicles of
wliite flowers. , , » i
MAONcrLiA Lf.nnei {Flore des Serres, t. 1693).— Magnoliaceoe. Probably the
finest of all the deciduous group of magnolias, and admirably adapted for forcing.
The flowers are large, white within, reddisli purple without.
Maranta illustkis {Flore des Serres, U 1691)— A good figure of this mag-
nificent plant.
Maranta rosea picta {Flore des Serres, t. 167-3;.— A faithful portrait, showing
the brilliant colours most accurately.
Zea Japonica alro-vittata, Vanegated Japayiese Maize {Flore des Serres^
t. 1673).— A fine annual grass, the leaves striped with bands of white and green.
BoLHopHYLLTM SiAMENSE {Gard. Chron., 1867, 572).— Orchidacetc. This has
pale yellow flowers, striped with purple lines ; it stands between B. LohUi and
Reinwardiii.
Odontoglossum NEKi-LosuM {Gard. Chron., 1867, 572).— This difficult orchid
has been several times lost, and is as yet but imperfectly understood. There are
two varieties, one with brown, one with red blotches.
ErcoDONiA N.EGELioiDES {L' Hort. Franc. 1867, t. 3).— Gesneraceoe. A beau-
tiful stove plant, with broad ovate leaves and large gloxinia-like flowers of a fine
lose, spotted with crimson.
FiTTONiA ARGYiioNELUA {Flore des Serres, t. 1664).— Acanthaceoe. A beau-
tiful stove herb, bearing a profusion of broad oval leaves of a bright green colour,
marked with a network of pure white veins.
L^LiA PiLCHEiii {Floral Mag., t. 340).— Orohidaceoe. A hybrid raised by Mr.
Dominy from L. Fen'inii, fertilized with L. crispa.
Sedum MAXIMUM VERSICOLOR, Many-coloured Major Sedum {Flore des Serres,
t. 1669).— Crassulacece. A hardy plant of the Telephium group, leaves roundish
oblong, green in the centre and margined with white.
Cyutodeira Montalexsis {Gard. Chron., 1867, 655).— Gesneraceoe. A pretty
plant from the Cbontales gold region of Central America. The leaves are purple on
the under side, and on the upper light green, with very dark green blotches. ^ The
flowers appear in Xovember and December, and are lilac, as large as a crown piece.
Epidendrl-m sophroxites {Gard. Chron., 1867, 655).— An unattractive species,
not worth describing here.
OuoNTOGLossuM NEBULOSUM CAXDiDUM {Gard. Chrou., 1867, 710).— A pretty
varietv, lacking the blotches on sepals and petals.
Pas-sifloka Banksii (Garc?. Chron, 1867, 782).— A greenhouse climber from
Queensland. The flowers are of a pinkish hue, and are succeeded by oblong greenish
fruit about an inch in length. It has been lately flowered by W. K. Curtis, Esq., of
Canterbury. It is the Disemma coccinea of De C. Prod. III. 333.
Good VERA macrantha {Gartenfl., t. 533, fig, 2).— Orchidaceas. A dwarf
nearly hardy orchid, with ovate leaves, which are bordered with yellow, and in the
central parts are of a durk green, reticulated with pale green lines like an Anajc-
tochilus. The flowers are pale rose-coloured.
GooDYEKA VELUTINA {Garte)ifl., t. 533, fig. 1).— A stout-growing, nearly
hardy orchid, the leaves of a deep velvety purpHsh green rib on the upper, and a
violet tint on the under side.
Lamprococcus Weilrachii {Gartenfl., t. 539).— Bromeliacea?. A stove herb
with tongue-shaped leaves, and a single panicle of flowers, which are bluish violet
and flesh coloured.
Aerides Vandarvm (Gard. Chron., 1867, 999).— This plant has been con-
founded with A. cvlhidricum, but it is quite distinct. It has pretty white nowers,
reminding one of Vanda flowers, by the reflexed sepals and the undulations of both
petals and sepals. ^ , . , 4 i.x
Dendrorium capillipes {Gard. Chron., 1867, 999).— Orchidacerc. A pretty
little species, with a small golden flower. It is a native of Moulmein.
Lmlix majalls May-Jloxverhq Lcella {Bot. Mag., t. 5667).— A magnificent
Mexican orchid, long known to botanists. The large handsome flowers are ot a
beautiful rosy-lilac colour, the lip is while with lilac streaks and lilac margin. ,
374 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
JEcHMEA GLOMEiiATA, Crotcded-Jlouerecl JEchmea (Bot. Mag., t. 5668).—
Bromeliaceae. A fine Brazilian plant, easy of cultivation, and very effective at a
season when the tropical houses are rather deficient in conspicuous plants. The
llower-scape is stout, &ix to ei;^ht inches high, bearing a brilli/intly-coloured blood-
red branched panicle of lar^re bracts studded with small violet flowers.
RoNDELETiA PuiiDii:! {Bot. Mag., t. .5069).— A charming fragrant hothouse
shrub, bearing ovate, oblong, grass-green leaves, and large corymbs of pale yellow
flowers.
TnAP.siA DECiPiEN.s {Bot. Mag., t. o670).— Umbelliferffi. One of the most
remarkable umbelliferous plants in cultivation, elegant' in habit and leafage, but of
little beauty as regards inflorescence. It has a slender, erect, annulate, palm-like
stem, tAvo to four, or even six feet high, and half to one inch in diameter, bearing
at the top a splendid waving crown, three to four feet across, of two to three deeply
cut leaves.
Epimedium alpixum, vae. rlbrum {Bot. Mag., t. 5671).— Berberidge. An
elegant hardy herbaceous plant, adapted for rockwork or for early greenhouse decora-
tion. It is distinguished from E. alpinum only in the rather larger size and the red
colour of the flowers.
THE CEXTIGEADE THEEMOMETEE.
[EVERAL eminent horticultuiists have expressed themselves desirous of
seeing the centigrade scale take the place of Fahrenheit's, and Dr. J. D.
Hooker, the learned director at Kew, has fully and fairly stated its
advantages. The centigrade is more readily applied to practical pur-
poses than Fahrenheit's scale, and may be more easily understood,
for it is a true scale, whereas the other is but an attempt to form a scale. The only
possible objection to the centigrade is that its divisions are too large, but this may
be obviated by again dividing them, and possibly the best plan would be to divide
them into tenths, as in the divisions of inches on the scale of the barometer. That
32' should be the technical description of the freezing point is simply absurd, and
has always been felt to be so ; but Fahrenheit's " zero " is even more absurd, because
we know nothing of zero in relative temperature, and in the first instance it was an
assumption which experience soon after proved to be unsound. There can be no
doubt that the centigrade scale will be the subject of considerable discussion, and
that it will ultimately come into general use, and in anticipation of a possible want,
we have given amongst the tables in the "Garden Oracle" for 1868, a comparison
of the three scales of the centigrade, Reaumur's, and Fahrenheit's, to facilitate the
conversion of one to the other without need of calculations.
GAEDEX GUIDE EOE DECEMBEE.
Kitchen Garden. — There is little to be done now but to dig and manure vacant
plots, and the more earnestly this is done the better. By thorough good work of this
sort now, the ground may be brought into fine condition for spring sowing, and the
general hurry tiiat prevails in spring may be mitigated. Peas and beans may be
sown on Avarm dry slopes ; rhubarb, horse-radish, and sea-kale may be planted.
Fruit Garden.— Yruit-trats, of all kinds may be planted, and the sooner the
better. If strawberry-beds are,to be planted in the spring, as recommended by Mr.
De Jonghe, now is the proper time to prepare the beds. Pruning should be per-
ibrined in mild weather, if possible, but there is no danger to the trees by pruning
during frosts of only moderate severity.
Flower Garden.— Fiov/Qr beds that have been many years in use and had but
little manure should be deeply dug, the clods well broken, and a good dressing of
rotten manure dug in. Vv'here calceolarias are to be planted next season, a very
heavy dressing of manure siiould be given, to make the ground rich, as for sea-kale
or cauliflowers ; but the manure must be quite rotten. Bulbs planted now w ill
flower very well in spring.
Greenhouse and titove. — Take especial pains to prevent injury to plants by drip
and damp. If there is time to have all the glasses of planthouses, pits, etc., well
THE FLORAL WOELD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 375
cleansed, the labour will be well repair!, in the improved condition of the plants, bj
the increase of dayli.c^lit. Plants in flower must have warmth enough to sustain
them, and a genial heat must be kept up where Poinsettias and Euphorbias are, or
they will flower but poorly. Camellias and oranges coming into bloom should be
■well cleansed, to make the foliagp bright. Primulas and cinerarias must be near the
glass. Hard-wooded plants must be kept as cool and dry as will be safe for them.
*#* Past issues of the Floral Would contain copious calendars of operations,
and the Garden Okacle has a complete and concise calendar, adapted for reference.
For these reasons, the " Garden Guide" will be on a contracted scale this year.
TO COEEESPONDENTS.
PixcHiNG axd Pkumxg. — Your article on "Frilit Prospects," in the November
number, wherein you condemn summer pinching as a delusion, has " almost taken
away my breath." I admit, that though I am managing a moderately large col-
lection of bushes and pyramids of pears, apples, plums, etc., by that method, my
experience is not yet sufficient to warrant giving an opinion, as they are only
just coming into fruit ; but if summer pinching of p^i-amids and bushes be a
delusion, what becomes of espalier and wall-tree pruning, for the former appears to
be merely carrying out the principle of the latter ? Would you abstain from
pinching your pyramids in summer, and depend on winter pruning ? If so, can
you say why it is right to pinch the shoots of espaliers according to the
established method (vide, for instance, Thompson's '• Gardener's Assistant," on
espaliers), and why wrong to do the same to your pyramids r You may be per-
fectly right, even though unable to explain so apparent a contradiction, but it
■would be satisfactory to have it explained. Or are you inclined to extend the
same condemnation of summer pruning to espaliers also ? ^Yhat, too, about hori-
zontal cordons, -which are miniature espaliers r They must be pinched constantly
to exist as such at all — so, at least, it appears to me. The comparison made
between the two methods of pinching and letting alone -would be fairer if the
" imaginary apple-tree" was in the open ground, and not in a pot. Pray tell me
how you would manage one of your "melon or mother apples" or '* Imperatrice
plums," if planted out in an orchard house, as you advise. Would you let them
have their own way all the summer ? As I understand you, you tvotild pinch to
form your tree, but not otherwise. You would also root prune, or remove annually
or biennially. I am glad to find, as I believe, that experience still approves of the
latter, as it is my only reliable method of preventing canker from the roots pene-
trating a cold clayey subsoil, which having been drained three feet deep, at twelve
feet apart, down to a slate-grit rock, still remains cold and wet. But trees will soon
become unmanagable for removal, unless cut in to a certain size at one season of the
year or anotlur, as espaliers are. — A. B.
[We expressed ourselves, no doubt, in rather strong terms, through having
paid dearly for experience, and become quite accustomed to see people led
astray by the advocacy in certain quarters of the practice of excessive pinching. It
is quite true that a certain amount of pinching, to direct and regulate the growth,
is godd, and with espalier trees (which, of course, include cordons) the practice is
essential. So, again, trees planted out under glass may be pinched with advan-
tage, if with skill, but unskilful pinching is farworsethan leaving the trees to grow
wild. Alter making all tliese allowances, it still remains a fact that thousands
have been persuaded to plant paltry little trees, and prevent them ever acquiring
a vigorous state of growth by excessive pinching. We advocate allowing the trees
to acquire some degree of vigour, and to this end free groivth is one of the first
requisites. When penning the article to which you refer, we had in our mind
several collections of bush and pyramid trees that had been treated on the severe
pinciiing system, and had produce! nothine:, and had subsequently been left to grow
freely, and had become fruitful. It is quite true that if little trees are regularly
and severely i)inched, they become prematurely fruitful, and that miniature trees
in this fruitful state may be bought, and are really sold by thousands. But the
question arises, what is their value .- Our opinion of these stunted trees is, that
they are of no value at all, and that opinion we offer in these pages for the good of
376 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
our readers, and for no other purpose. The fact is, the dwarfing system has been
carried loo far, and we are expected to be delighted with the smallness and wiry-
character of the pigmies, instead of at once perceiving that, as fruit-hearers, such
paltry things are of necessity worthless. There must be wood before fruit, and
there cannot be wood unless we encourage growth. Root-pruning is another
matter. We do not hear it proposed to nip back the roots all the summer ; no, they
are allowed to extend as they will, and the pruning is done at the season of rest.
So winter pruning of the shoots is different to summer piaching, for the simple
reason that the buds and spurs allowed to remain have had the advantage of the
whole vigour of the shoot during the season of growth.]
Grafting '^is-Eii.—Suhscriber. — The best mode of grafting vines is that called
the whip or tongue graft, but any mode may be pursued that insures a good junc-
tion. If the roots of the vines to be grafted are within the house, the graftiug may
be performed at the end of February ; but if in an outside border, the latter part of
March will be preferable, or even the middle of April may be early enough. The
branches to be used as gi-afts should be cut some time in advance, and be kept in
damp earth to preserve them in a plump condition. When the graft is put on,
carefully tied, we prefer to cover it with clay rather than use grafting wax. The
French cultivators put on grafts in autumn by splitting the stock at a fork, and
inserting the graft as a wedge ; thev then tie and clay. The American cultivators
frequently graft just above the roots of the stock, and then heap soil over, j ust
allowing the point of the graft to peep thi'ough. Amateurs not skilful in grafcmg
will find it safer to inarch, and this process is most easy of accomplishment.
H.t:moxt. — A. L. G. — We promised to consider your query at the first oppor-
tunity, and we have at last made an opportunity for it. The lines in Milton's
ComtirS (1. 638), in which reference to the plant occurs, are as follow : —
a small, unsightly root,
But of divine eff'ect .
The leaf was darkish, and had prickles on it,
But in another country, as he said,
Bore a bright golden flower, but not in this soil ;
More medicinal is it than that Moly
That Hermes once to wise Ulysses gave ;
He called it Hsemony, and gave it me,
And bade me keep it as of sovereign use
'Gainst all enchantments."
The same plant is perhaps referred to in Ovid's " Metamorphoses" (lib, vii.,
1.264) — "Illic Hremonia radices, valle 'resectus." In Dodven's " Herbal" (a. d.
1578), a plant useful against enchantments is described under the name of
" Allysson," which would suggest to us a plant which we are all used to, namely
Alyssum saxatile, the leaves of which are rather woolly (but not with prickles),
and the flowers are golden-yellow. That it should be described as "not flowering
in this soil" is consistent with the fact of the plant being but little known in
Milton's time. Coleridge (" Statesman's Manual," Appendix B) I'cfers to it as a
purely mystical thing, and derives its name from the Greek oT/ia, ''blood," and
olvos, " wine," and adds, " Bear in mind, reader ! the character of a militant
Christian, and the results (in this life and in the next) of the redemption by the
blocd of Christ, and so peruse the passage." Pliny (xxv. 20 ; xxvi. 25 ; xxvii. 17)
speaks of a plant called Hcmionion as a kind of rush or broom. We may, by such
a stretch of fancy as is allowable in construing the descriptions of ancient writers,
suppose the plant to be the furze; but " not in this soil" forbids us. The sug-
gestion offered in " Notes and Queries" (vol. ii., p. 410), that the plant is a fern,
known as Ceterach officinarum, or as Aspleniuni adiantum nigrum, seems to be
scarcely worth consideration ; Ibr if we suppose the plant to be a reality, it must
have yellow flowers. But who shall say that Milion had in his mind any plant at
all ? Perhaps we are searching for that which never existed but in the fancy of the
poet, and which never had any use in the world, even of fancy, than to serve the
purpose of the charming story.
HABUILD, FBINIBB, LOJTDON.
New York Botanical Garden Librar
3 5185 00292 4700