THE

FLORAL WORLD

GARDEN GUIDE.

EDITED

BY

SHIRLEY HIBBERD, ESQ., F.R.H.S.

I87L

LIBRARY
NEW YORK
BOTANICAL

GARDEN

LONDON:

GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS,

5, PATERNOSTER ROW.

■ — <x>:*ioo—

London :

Peinted by Simmons & Botten,

Shoe Lanf, E.C.

INDEX.

Abtjtilon Thompsoni, 317
Acacias, pruning, 192
Achimenes, thrips on, 319
Acme frame, Looker's, 56
Agapanthus, hardiness of, 354
Agavas, culture of, 319
American garden, the, 236
Antirrhinums, select, 221
Annual flowers, choice, 76
Annuals for cold soil, 160
Ants, destroying, 240
Aquilegia glandulosa, 353
Aquilegias, hardy, 353
Areca lutescens and A. ruhra, 23
Artillery plant, 95
Asparagus beds, salting, 64
Asparagus, colossal, 314
Asters for the conservatory, 171
Astilbe japonica, 307
Auriculas, seedling, 287

Basket plants, 128

Beans, preserving, French, 192

Beans, kidney, 132

Beans, scarlet runners, planting, 173

Bedding calceolarias, 175

Bedding, carpet, 137

Bedding, embroidery, 65

Bedding plants, propagation of, 45, 278

Bedding plants, select, 79, 351

Bedding succulents, 341

Bedding violas and pansies, 262

Beds, preparing flower, 112

Bedders and bedding, 45, 79, 112

Beehive, the German, 179

Begonia fuchsioides, 127

Begonias, ornamental-leaved, 63

Begonias, propagating, 174

Beetroot culture, 116

Boiler, Cannell's new, 146

Books, new, 188, 339

Borecoles for bedding, 77

Bougainvilleas, pot culture of, 356

Bouquets, flowers for, 148

Boxes for propagating, 319

Boxes, window, 48

Bulbs, planting spring-flowering, 228

Cabbage, club in, 192

Calamus dealbatus and C. spectabilis, 23

Calceolarias, 157

Calceolarias for bedding, 175

Cannas, select, 78

Cannell's new boiler, 146

Cape cowslips, 242

Carpet bedding, 157

Carpet chamomile, 352

Carrot culture, 1 1 4

Celosia culture, 160

Centaureas, propagation and culture

of, 54
Chamsedorea spectabilis, C. gramini-

folia, C. Wendlandi, 21
Chamaerops Fortunei and humilis, 24
Christmas decorations, 366
Chrysanthemums, 95
Chrysanthemums, Japanese, 19
Cineraria culture, 143
Clematis, 352

Clematis culture, hybrid, 129
Clematis, propagation of, 288
Clianthus Dampieri, 224
Climbing plants for a porch, 191
Climbing roses, 5, 347
Club in cabbages, 192
Cocos Weddeliana, 24
Coleus, note on bedding, 118
Columbines, hardy, 353
Cordon case, Brehaut's, 360
Corypha australis, 24
Cucumbers, summer, 106
Cyclamens, 350
Cypripedium insigne, 337

Dahlia, propagation and culture of the,

82, 104, 199, 244
Daemonorops accidens and D. plumosa,

24

INDEX.

Decorations, Christmas, 366
Dessert pears, cultivation of, 34
Dieffenbachia, 13

Earthworms, destroying, 135
Echeveria secunda glauca and E. me-

tallica; 341
Echeverias, propagating, 341
Edgings, ivy, 96
Egg plants, 224
Embroidery bedding, 65
Ericas drying, 224
Euphorbia jacquinifolia, 85
Exhibitions, reports of, 26, 57, 123,

153, 184, 221, 251, 2S1, 312, 345
Euterpe edulis, 24

Evaporation of water from plants, 62
Everlasting flowers, gathering, 319

Fern house, 158

Ferns from spores, 62

Ferns, tree, 62, 191

Fertilization of plants, self, 311

Ficus elasticus, 192

Flowers for bouquets, 148

Forcing, early, 95

Flowers, selection of showy, 76

Flower beds, preparing, 112

Forget-me-nots, 288

Frozen plants, 64

Fruit for all purposes, selections of, 348

Fruit gathering, 309

Fruit trees, management of, under glass,

268
Fruit trees, watering, 17
Fuchsia buds, dropping, 319
Fuchsias for the conservatory, 100
Fumigating greenhouse, 350
Gas heating, 362

Garden Guide, 29, 60, 93, 121, 151,

183, 219, 249, 285, 315, 343, 371
Garden> summer work in the kitchen,

195
Gardening without a garden, 229
Gathering fruit, 309
Geranium propagation by leaves, 209
Gladiolus, cultivation of the, 203
Gladioli in pots, 288 : Souchet's new,

330 ; selection of, 293
Gleanings from catalogues, 76
Gleichenia culture, 317
Gourds, 192
Grape growing, 9
Grape growing in greenhouse, 136
Grape vine, propagation of, 9
Grape vines, cropping and thinning,

233
Grapes, keeping late, 215
Grapes, setting Muscat, 174
Grasses, ornamental, 77

Greenhouse, fumigating, 350 ; heating

small, 128 ; vinery, 136
Greenhouses in winter, managing, 363

Hardy plants for the flower garden, 353

Heaths, drying, 224

Heating small greenhouse, 178

Heating greenhouses with gas, 362

Hepaticas, 224

Hollyhocks, 32

Horticultural Notes, 26, 57, 123, 153,

184, 221, 251, 281, 312, 345, 373
Hoteia japonica, 307
Humea elegans, 208
Hyacinths for exhibition, 310
Hyacinths for exhibition and home

decoration, 318

India-rubber plants, 192

Iris, cultivation of, 226 ; select list of,

226
Ivy, a new use for, 38
Ivy, pyramidal specimens of, 38
Ivy, edgings, 96
Ivies, variegated, 321

Jasminum, officinale, propagating, 63
Japanese chrysanthemums, 19

Kainit, 63

Kidney beans, 132

Kitchen garden, summer work in, 195

Lace-leaf plant, 259

Lachenalias, culture of, 242

Lady's slipper, the, 337

Latania bourbonica, 24

Lawn plants, hardy, 354

Lawn, renovating old, 128

Lawn, the making and the management

of the, 331
Lawns, making new, 287
Lawns, destroying earthworms in, 135
Leaves, skeleton, 256
Leaves, absorption of moisture by, 311
Licula peltata, 24
Lily of the valley, home grown, 89
Literary notices, 339
Livistonia australis, 24
London gardening in the olden time, 91
Looker's garden frame, 56

Maize, its use and culture, 87
Malortica simplex, 25
Manure, sawdust as a, 224
Maple leaf, the, 39
Marantas, 277
Martinezia carytsefolia, 25
Mealy bug, destroying, 63
Melon CTilture, 67
Muscat grapes, setting, 174

INDEX.

Myosotis, dissitiflora, 288
Mushroom culture, 159

Nepenthes, prices of, 350
Night-scented stock, 53

Orchard-house in winter, 17 ; manage-
ment of, 268
Orchids, notes on, 161
Ouvirandra fenestralis, 259

Palms, notes on, 21

Pansies, bedding, 262

Parsnip culture, 115

Peaches, double flowering, 191

Pea, cultivation of the garden, 40

Peas, the best garden, 44

Peas, sweet, 92

Pear, Brookworth Park, 33

Pears in Australia, 47

Pears, cultivation and selection of

dessert, 34
Pelargoniums, propagating, 288 ; large-
flowering, 1 ; select show, 288 ;

zonals, 200 ; propagating zonals, 216 ;

zonal, for pot culture, 300 ; select

zonal and variegated, 165
Pentstemons, select, 271
Periwinkle, variegated, 224
Plants, frozen, 64 ; for baskets, 128
Plumbago capensis, 150
Poinsettia pulcherrima, 64, 85
Polygonum tricuspidata, 355
Porch covering, 191
Portulacas for the flower-gai'den, 141
Potatoes, 13 ; planting, 96 ; culture of,

126 ; selections of, 126
Pot-vines, 51

Phloxes, select late- flowering, 158
Pictorial trees, 289
Pink, Coccinea, 258 ; Godfrey, 258 ;

Shirley Hibberd, 258 ; Lady Blanche,

258 ; Dr. Masters, 259
Pinks, Turner's new, 257 ; exhibition,

259
Pitcher plant, prices of, 350
Plant houses, winter management of,

363
Plant protectors, Rendle's, 358
Primula cortusoides, 193
Primula sinensis, sowing seed of, 95
Propagating boxes, 319 ; bedding plants,

45, 278 ; zonal pelargoniums, 216
Pruning roses, 108
Ptjchosperma excelsis, 25

Rendle's plant protectors, 358
P. aphis flabelliformis, 25
Rhododendrons, cultivation of hardy,

236
Boots, kitchen garden, 114

Rosarium, forming a, 322

Rose-buds, decaying, 158

Rose, cultivation of, 5

Rose grubs, destroying, 191

Rose trees, planting, 255

Roses, a few words about, 298 ; climb-
ing, 75, 347; how to prune, 108;
propagation of, 203 ; selections of,
326

Salsafy culture, 96, 117
Sawdust as manure, 224
Schizanthus culture, 270
Seaforthia elegans and S. Veitchi, 25
Seakale cutting, 32
Sempervivum californicum, 341
Spirsea japonica, 307
Spring-flowering bulbs, planting, 287
Spring-flowering plants, hardy, 12S
Skeleton leaves, 256
Stock, night-scented, 53
Stocks, intermediate, 232
Subtropical gardening, 177
Subtropical plants, select, 168
Succulents, bedding, 34L
Summer cucumbers, 106
Summer work in the kitchen garden,

195
Sweet peas, 92

Table decoration, ornamental-leaved
plants for, 213 ; flowering plants for
274 ; berry-bearing plants for, 327

Tan, 127

Tecoma jasminioides, 63

Thrinax elegans and T. gracilis, 25

Thrips on achimenes, 319

Todea Wilkesiana, 234

Tomato culture, 172

Town garden, flowers for a, 160

Trees, garden, 289

TropoBolum tricolorum, 206

Tulips, early, 264

Tulips, select, 318

Variegated pelargoniums, select, 165
Variegated and zonal pelargoniums,

select, 165
Vases, flowers for, 148
Verbena, Peter Williams, 97 ; Blue

Bell, 97; Grand Monarch, 98;

George Peabody, 98 ; Mrs. Dodds,

98 ; Rose Imperial, 98
Verbena, Eckford's new, 97 ; notes on,

99 ; for pot culture, the best, 98, 288
Veronica Candida, 95
Vinca major elegantissima, 224
Vine borders, forming, 71
Vines in greenhouse, 136 ; manage-
ment of pot, 238 ; outdoor, 303 ;

in pots, management of, 51 ; plant-

\

INDEX.

ing and pruning, 210 ; thinning and
cropping, grape, 233 ; propagation
of, 9

Vinery, Looker's ground, 56

Vineries, erection of, 71

Vineries, Rendle's ground, 358

Violas, bedding, 262

"Welfia regia, 25
"Walls, roses for, 7

Window gardening, 229
Window gardening, 48
Winter, a note on the, 126
Wire worms, destroying, 159
Woodlice, destroying, 32, 127
Worms in lawns, destroying, 135

Zonal pelargoniums, 200 ; propagation
of, 216 ; select, 165

NEW PLANTS.

Acacia Riceana, 119

Acer palmatum crispum,218; A. pal-

matum ornatum, 218
Agava ixtlioides, 190
Amaryllis Rayneri, 190
Aphelandra aurantinea, 119
Aristolochia clypeala, 218
Begonia crinita, 190
Beloperone ciliata, 189
Caladium, Henry Dodcot, 218; C.

Etoile d' Argent, 218; C. Jules

Putzey's, 218 ; C. Mons. Bariller,

190
Camellia, Madame Cannart d'Hamule,

218
Callypsyche aurantiaca, 217, and C.

mirabilis, 217
Catalpa syringsefolia aurea, 119
C'attleya maxima, 119
Costus Malortieanus, 190
C'yrtanthera chrysostephana, 190
Godetia whitneyi, 119

Oillia linifolia, 190

Hyacinthus caudicans, 217 ; princeps,

217
Leptosiphon parvifolius rosaceus, 120
Masdevallia Lindeni, 218
Massonia (Astemna) odorata, 189
MimulusTilingi,218
Odontoglossum nevadense, 218
Odontoglossum odoratum latimacu-

latum, 218
Oncidium tigrinum Tar splendidum,

190
Paulinia thalictrifolia, 190
Pelargonium pink, May Queen, 189
Quercus striata, 218
Saxifraga CAizoania) longifolia, 189
Slatice spicata, 190, 217
Themistoclesia coronilla, 120
Tillandsia ionantha, 189
Todea Africana, 218
Xiphion junceum, 189

COLOURED PLATES.

Alder, the golden, 293
Alnus glandulosa aurea, 293
Aquilegia glandulosa, 353
Clematis, Star of India, 129
Golden alder, 293
Iris reticulata, 225
Ivies, variegated, 321
Leaf-embroidered border, 65
Pear, Brockworth-park, 33
Pelargonium, Pollie, 1
Pink, Godfrey, 257

Primula cortusoides amcena, and P. c.
lilacina, 193

Terrace-garden, with leaf embroidery.
65

Thunia Bensonise, 161

Variegated ivies, 221

Verbenas, Eckford's, Blue Bell, Mrs.
Dodds, Rose Imperial, Grand Mon-
arch, George Peabody, and Peter
Williams, 97

INDEX.

WOOD ENGRAVINGS.

Acacia Riceana, 119
-Acme frame, Looker's, 56
Aster, posony-flowered globe, 171
Astilbe japonica, 308
Beehive, the German, 180, 181
Boiler, Cannell's, 146, 147
Cordon case, 360
Cyperus papyrus, 169
Cypripedium insigne, 337, 338
Dahlia blooms, perfect, 246, 247, 248
Dahlias, protecting blooms, 245, 246
Dasmonorops accidens, 23
Fiower boxes, 48, 49, 50
Fuchsia, specimen, 102
Gas-heating apparatus, 362
Godetia Whitneyi, 120
Greenhouse vinery, 137
Hotei japonica, 308
Humea elegans, 209
Lace-leaf plant, 2C0 ; leaf and flower-
scape of, 261
Leptosiphori rosaceus, 120
Licula peltata, 25
Looker's acme frame, 56
Marauta zebrina, 277

Melon, Gdbert's Improved Victory of
Bath, 69 ; Cox's Golden Gem, 70

Mimulus Tilingi, 218

Ouvirandra fenestralis, 260, 261

Palms, figures of, 23, 25

Pea, M'Lean's Best of All, 40 ; Eastie's
Kentish Invicta, 41

Potato, Wood's Scarlet Prolific, 14;
Sutton's Berkshire kidney, 15

Rendle's portable plant protectors, 358,
359, 360, 361

Spiraea japonica, 308

Statice ^picata, £17

Todea Wilkesiana, 234

Trellises,wire,for plants of small growth,
207

Tropaeolum tricolorum, trellises for, 207

Vines, pruning and training, 211

Vines, training and propagating out-
door, 305, 307

Vinery greenhouse, 137

ViDeries, ground, Looker's, 56 ; Han-
dle's, 358-360

Vineries, plants of, 72, 73, 74

Window boxes, 48, 49, 50

P 0 I I Y.

UBBABY
NEW yojy.

AND

GARDEN GUIDE,

§2$-£SS€M£S3es

LAEGE-ELOWEEING PELAEGOJSITJMS.

CO
CD

BY GEOBGE GOBDON.
(With coloured figure of Turner's Pelargonium "Polly.")

HE absence of the grand collections of large-flowered
Pelargoniums from Hoyle, Eraser, Bailey, Turner, and
other celebrated growers, at the horticultural exhibi-
tions held in the metropolis during the last two or three
seasons, is certainly an indication that they are a few
shades less popular than they were a few years since ; yet it would be
wrong to suppose that few people care for them. Indeed, for home
decoration, I believe that the esteem in which they have hitherto
been held has decreased very little indeed, and also that there can
be no doubt that the disappearance from the arena of the collec-
tions referred to, is more directly due to parsimonious schedules
than to any lack of interest felt in them by the general public. It
must be borne in mind that it is a most expensive affair to grow and
convey to an exhibition such huge specimens as those staged by
the foregoing exhibitors, and it would be unreasonable to expect
any one, whether in the trade or not, to devote much time, labour,
and skill in the cultivation of any class of plants with the full
knowledge of their incurring a large pecuniary loss, even if most
successful. Without any further preface I will offer a few remarks
on their cultivation for conservatory decoration, and then give a
short descriptive list of a few of the best and most distinct of the
new varieties.

It matters not at what season of the year their cultivation is
commenced, but where they are taken in hand for the first time, or
where an addition to the existing stock is made, the plants should be
purchased as early in the season as possible. For instance, sturdy
little plants that come to hand now, can with proper care be grown
into moderate-sized specimens by the period of their flowering,
whereas those purchased late in the season, will be so small in size,
that the flowers will be sparingly produced, even if they bloom at
VOL. vi. — no. i. 1

2 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

all. They should undergo an examination immediately they come to
hand, and if the pots are well filled with roots, shift them into a
larger size at once ; if, however, they are not well rooted, defer the
repotting until the middle or end of February. In either case they
should he placed in a light and airy position in the greenhouse, and
he watered cautiously. A fortnight or so after they have been re-
potted pinch out the points of the young shoots to assist the forma-
tion of bushy specimens, and when it becomes necessary train out
the side-shoots by means of neat sticks. Those intended for exhibi-
tion must have the branches brought close down to the rim of the
pot, and be kept down as much as possible during the first year ;
but the growth of those intended for conservatory decoration will
merely require tying out to admit a free circulation of air amongst
the branches, and for securing a regular well-balanced outline
when they are in flower. Upright growing plants with heads
of bloom about twelve or fifteen inches in diameter are the most
useful for the conservatory, and therefore excessive training must be
avoided.

As they go out of flower remove them to the open, and place

the pots upon a bed of coal-ashes, and if practicable shade them for

a few days to allow the wood to become slightly hardened before they

are exposed to the full influence of the sun. Henceforth they must

have free exposure to the weather, and in a fortnight or three weeks

the wood will be matured sufficiently to allow of their being cut

down. The soil should also be kept as dry as it is possible to keep

it without allowing the leaves to flag. In pruning, cut back the

young shoots to within two or three buds of the old wood, according

to their respective positions, but the chief aim must be to give to

each a symmetrical appearance. Excepting in unusually wet seasons

they should remain in the open, until taken indoors for the winter,

but in wet seasons they should be placed in a cold frame, and the

lights drawn off at all times, excepting when they are required to

protect the inmates from the rain. No water must be applied to

the roots from the time they are cut down until the younq growth is

about half an inch in length, but they will receive much benefit from

a sprinkle overhead in the afternoon of a dry hot day. When the

young growth has attained the abovementioned length, turn them out

of the pots, remove nearly if not quite all the old soil, trim the roots

slightly, and put each in a pot one or two sizes smaller than that

which it has previously occupied. Return them to the position they

previously occupied, and water very sparingly until they are well

established in the new soil. Even then, no more water must be

applied than is absolutely necessary to maintain a steady growth.

Early in September remove to the greenhouse for the winter, and the

only attention required to keep them in health will be to supply

them with water when necessary7, and to keep the foliage free from

green-fly, which, by the way, are very partial to them.

Some time during January of the following year, repot all that
require a shift into pots two sizes larger ; that is, those occupying
three-inch pots should be put into the six-inch size, and those in five-
inch into pots eight inches in diameter. Potted as here advised, no

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3

further shift will be required until after they have done flowering,
and much unnecessary labour is avoided. After the end of February
the young growth will make vigorous progress, and should be tied
out neatly, and their growing points nipped out. In succeeding
years, when the period of flowering will be more under the control
of the cultivator, the specimens intended for flowering in May must
receive their final stopping in January ; for June, in March ; and for
July, some time towards the end of April. Those required for May
must receive their final shift in October, and be placed in a tempera-
ture a few degrees higher than that required for the remaining por-
tion of the stock. After the first season's growth the plants should,
as soon as they are well established in the pots in which they are to
flower, be watered with weak liquid manure about twice, and with
•clear soft water at all other times.

Large-flowered Pelargoniums winter best in a temperature rang-
ing between 40° and 50°, according to the weather, and with just
enough fire-heat to keep the frost out, and the atmosphere dry. A
comparatively dry atmosphere and moderate supplies of water at the
roots during this period, are most important, and the principal bulk
of the failures which occur every season may be safely attributed to
a reverse of these conditions.

A compost consisting of three-parts sound turfy loam, and one
each of well-decayed hot-bed manure and leaf-mould, and half a
part of sharp silver-sand, will grow all the large-flowering varieties to
perfection. The soil must be used in a moderately rough condition,
and the loam and manure be well mixed together. The compost
should, if possible, be prepared four or six months beforehand, by
placing the manure between the layers of loam when it is stacked up
in a heap, as it comes from the pasture or common.

By pursuing this plan much time and trouble will be saved, as all
that has to be done when the soil is required for use is to chop down
one side of the heap of soil, and add the sand to it. It now only
remains to be said in connection with this part of the subject that
the pots must be clean and well drained, and the soil be pressed
firm, without being rammed hard.

Cuttings of well-matured wood cut up into lengths of two joints
each, with a young side-shoot proceeding from the top joint, strike
freely. Prepare by cutting them close under the bottom bud, and
remove the lower leaf. Insert in cutting pots, prepared in the usual
manner with a layer of dry sand on the top, and then place in a
cold frame. Keep rather elope and shade moderately during the
first week or ten days, and then ventilate freely, and expose to the
full sun. Pot off as soon as nicely rooted, and if they are stopped
when well established and shifted into five-inch pots about a fort-
night or three weeks afterwards, they will make good specimens by
the following season.

There are now only three raisers of large-flowered show varieties,
and of these Mr. Hoyle and Mr. Poster, whose flowers are dis-
tributed by Mr. C. Turner, of Slough, enjoy the highest repute. The
new varieties that will be sent out by Mr. Turner in the ensuing
spring were all exhibited several times during the exhibition season

4 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of last year, and many of tbem were shown at the summer shows of
1860, and the descriptions here given of them are entirely my own,
and are the result of careful criticism and comparison with others of
anterior date.

Admiration (Poster). — A grand flower; top petals deep bright
crimson, with dark blotch; lower petals deep pink, with small
blotch ; fine habit and very free.

Black Prince. — Top petals deep maroon, bordered with red;
lower petals pink, painted with crimson; throat pure white; dis-
tinct and pleasing.

Brigantine (Foster). — Top petals rich, maroon crimson, with
narrow margin of pink ; lower petals pale rose, painted with crim-
son ; free and showy, grand.

Charlemagne.- — Top petals clear bright salmon-pink, with deep
maroon blotch on top petals ; a large and most superbly-finished
flower.

Iron Bulce (Foster). — Top petals dark, with margin of bright
rosy pink ; lower petals bright carmine ; throat pure white ; first-
rate in every respect.

May Bay (Foster). — Top petals glossy black, with broad mar-
gin of rosy pink ; lower petals light pink ; throat white ; a most
refined and beautiful flower.

Folly (Foster). — The faithfully executed figure of this splendid
variety renders a technical description unnecessary. The habit is
first-rate, and as it is remarkably floriferous, there can be no doubt
it will occupy a prominent position in the principal competitive
groups many years hence, and be much appreciated for the
conservatory stage.

Warrior (Foster). — Deep glossy black top petals, with bright red
margin ; lower petals bright reddish pink ; a superbly finished
flower, with a compact and remarkably floriferous habit.

BuJce of Edinburgh (Hoyle). — Top petals blackish maroon, with
bright margin of pink ; lower petals rose, prettily painted with
dark ; a grand flower of the most superb form.

Eldorado (Hoyle). — Top petals bright red, with dark blotch ;
lower petals deep rose ; wondrously showy.

Exemplar (Hoyle). — Top petals deep maroon, with narrow border
of rose ; lower petals pink blotched with maroon ; free and showy.

Pasha (Hoyle). — Top petals blackish, bordered with pink; lower
petals bright red pencilled with deep crimson ; valuable for its fine
habit and floriferous character.

Of the varieties sent out by Mr. Turner in the spring of 1870, I
have a decided preference for Attraction (Foster), Bonnie Charlie
(Hoyle), Claribel (Foster), Corsair (Foster), Cycle (Hoyle), Harold
(Foster), Her Majesty (Foster), Heroine (Foster), Maid of Honour
(Foster), and Marion Wilkie (Hoyle).

The Fancy varieties which have been sent out by Mr. Turner
during the last two seasons have been wonderfully good. They are
certainly a most decided improvement upon varieties of an anterior
date, and to grow the older kinds now is a sheer waste of house
room. The best twelve of the newer sorts are, in my opinion, the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 5

following, and they combine a vigorous habit with flowers of superb
colours and quality.

Agrippa. — A showy rose-pink flower, of the finest form aud
substance.

Belle of the Season. — Rosy carmine, fine form and most profuse
in flowering.

Brightness. — Deep rose, white throat and margin of lower petals ;
a grand and telling variety for exhibition, as well as being most
useful for the conservatory.

Cinderella. — Bright lilacy pink, white throat and margin ; fine
form, habit good.

Excelsior. — Top petals bright rosy crimson, lower petals pale
rose, margined with white, white throat ; most desirable in every
respect.

Fanny Gair. — Top petals deep rose, lower petals bright rose,
with white margin, fine form ; grand for exhibition aud conservatory
decoration.

Lady Garrington. — Rosy pink, light blotch on top petals, white
inai'gin ; pretty and showy.

Leotard. — Deep rose, whitish throat and margin; a fine exhibition
aud conservatory flower.

Marmion. — Reddish carmine, whitish throat ; a pretty flower, of
large size and fine substance.

Mrs. Mendall. — A fine light flower, blotched with rosy pink.

Princess Tech. — Top petals bright rose, margined with white,
lower petals white with pink spot, free bloomer; fine for exhibition ;
one of the very best sent out for many years past.

Vivandiere. — Dark rosy crimson, light margin ; a fine flower ;
very free flowering, and therefore valuable for decorative purposes.

THE CULTIVATION OF THE ROSE.— No. V.

CLIMBING EOSES.

|HE " Rose Mount," at the Crystal Palace, should present
higher attractions to rosarians than it has ever done
hitherto, for it cannot be questioned that the roses that
encircle the pavilion consist for the most part of sorts
that have become antiquated ; that they are disposed
without taste, and that during a great portion of the year they are
neither useful nor ornamental. But he would be a poor rosarian who
should learn nothing from a visit to even that misused attraction,
and perhaps the climbing roses would interest a greater number of
connoisseurs of roses than any other particular feature of the mount.
There are on the pavilion some glorious examples of the best of
climbing roses, and there is considerable variety amongst the sorts
that contribute to the general effect. The ruddy Boursaults, the
delicate Ayrshires, and the best of the Sempervirens sectiou, here
present themselves in most creditable condition, clothing the trellises

6 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

to the very summit, and in their season sheeting them with flowers.
I know not whether it is owing to the proximity of the Crystal
Palace as a determining influence, hut Boursault roses, for some-
reason or other, abound more in Sydenham than in any other place-
within my knowledge, and I speak as a frequent and an observant
traveller. Everywhere the walls of pretty villas are smothered with
the rich purplish-crimson or brilliant rose-coloured flowers of this
best of wall roses ; the soil suits them, the owners care for them, and
the rose-loving rambler shares in the delight.

If we could make a general survey of all the wall, pillar, and
pavilion roses in the country, I fear we should have to report of
them in an unsatisfactory manner. Generally speaking, this class of
roses is badly treated. Those who know how, oftentimes neglect to
apply their knowledge, from a foolish disrespect they entertain for
roses that are of no value for their individual flowers. Those who
do not know, generally conclude that pruning them with a knife and
fork will be the right thing, and that as to other matters the wall
roses will take care of themselves. It may be well to say a word to
both classes. Those who affect to despise these roses because of
their familiarity with the wonders of the rose garden proper, play a
foolish part. Once admit that walls and trellises must be clothed,
and that certain roses are adapted to afford the desired covering, and
it follows that he who gives his mind and hands cheerfully to the
task of growing them properly, obeys the dictates of sound sense
and good taste ; and he who would despise them or act as if they
were unworthy of his attention, deserves rebuke for a shallow pre-
tender, and one who in his supposed affluence of knowledge has yet
everything to learn. To the more modest ones who would do well
for their climbing roses if they only knew how, we shall speak more-
kindly and communicatively. To them, indeed, is addressed all that
follows.

As to climbing roses in general, it must be understood that our
first business is to make sure that they will grow. It is in this first
stage that many a climbing rose is irretrievably ruined, and made a
ghost of for the disgrace of the wall it clings to like a shadow. Tou
cannot have too much vigour in a climbing rose, and therefore you
cannot be too liberal in your mode of planting. A deep strong loam
is the proper bed, but this bed should be broken up over one square
yard of space at least, and a liberal allowance of fat manure well
dug into it. When planted in such a bed, a climbing rose will be
pretty sure to grow, but if simply stuck in a hole, it will be pretty
sure to stand still until death takes kindly charge to make an end of
its miseries.

In dry, chalky, and sandy districts, rampant rosec are commonly
starved, and make but a poor return for the space afforded them. It
is in their nature to require substantial nourishment, and if that can-
not be provided it is a folly to plant them. If, however, any one-
dwelling in a district where the soil is of this hot, starving character
would " make an effort " to produce a bower of roses, my advice to
such an one would be to prepare, by diligent labour, the nearest pos-
sible resemblance to a rich loam, and to make an extra large bed, say,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 7

two or three yards square and fall one yard deep, for every one of the
climbing roses. As for the imitation, it may be that a few loads of
clay can be obtained ; to this may be added good manure and some
part of the staple soil of the spot, muck from the bottom of a pond
or ditch would be invaluable in such a case, and something might be
done by collecting the trimmings of turf that are made when roads
are repaired. Having made a fair beginning with a view to plant,
you will have to encounter the grave question of the best sorts
for particular purposes. We first take into consideration the best
sorts for —

Wall Roses. — If the walls are high, and great sheets of bloom
are required, there are really but few sorts to make selection from.
The finest wall rose in the world is Laura Davoust, the representa-
tive of the " multiflora " section, but it is tender, and therefore we
may as well at once fix its habitat, which should be a south or west
wall in the southern parts of these islands. The most generally use-
ful of wall roses are Boursault Crimson, purple-crimson ; Boursault
Gracilis, purple-rose ; Boursault lnermis, brilliant rose ; Hybrid
Perpetual Bed Rover, fiery crimson ; Sempervirens Myriantlies, pale
pink ; Sempervirens Princess Louise, creamy white. None of these
have any quality, but they are rich in rustic worth. They grow
rapidly, they flower freely, and in the short season of their bloom
they are truly glorious. Happily any aspect and any climate almost
in the home empire wdl suit them.

But can we not have quality in this department of rose-growing
as in others ? Yes. Let me therefore unfold a plan which I carried
out twenty years ago, which combined the two features of clothing
a wall instantly and of securing roses for the covering of the finest
quality known. In the first place I planted Boursaults and Semper-
virens at ten feet apart, and I put a selection of H.P.'s and T.'s
between them. They were planted in a border well prepared, and
trained to a wall fourteen feet high. The Boursaults and Semper-
virens rushed up the wall, the H.P.'s and T.'s climbed up it slowly.
Of course not many years would have passed ere the rampant sorts
had smothered out the others, only I stood by with a terrible knife,
and kept the rampants back, and at last cut them out altogether,
root and branch, and left the whole wall clothed with the most
glorious roses. For this plan the best of the quality sorts are the
following : —

Hybrid Perpetuals eor Walls. — Alex. Bachmeteff, Anna
Alexieff, Anna de Diesbach, Clement Marot, Duchess of Sutherland,
Empereur de Maroc, Francoise Lacharme, General Jacqueminot,
Ipswich Gem, Madame Crapelet, Maxime, Olivier Delhomme, Paul
Verdier, Princess Mathilde, Red Rover, Queen a Victoria, Senateur
Vaisse, Wilhelm Pfitzer.

Teas for Warm Walls. — Adam, Climbing Devoniensis, Gloire
de Dijon, Goubault, Leveson Gower, Madame Damaizin, Madamo
Willermoz, Narcisse, Souvenir d'un Ami.

Noisettes eor Walls. — Aimee Vibert Scandens, Celine
Porestier, Jaune Desprez, Lamarque, Ophirie, Solfaterre, Triomphe
de Rennes.

8 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

In purchasing any of these roses, take the hest care possible to
obtain them upon brier stocks or their own roots, for Manettis will
not do at all, and briers are scarcely to be desired. If they are on
their own roots you will have the power at any time to compel them
to renew themselves from the very base, by the simple process of
cutting them down, and this may be desirable some day. If upon
any stock you will have no such power, because if you are driven to
an act of amputation for the purpose of renewing the tree, the
stock will immediately send up a host of suckers, and contend for its
own renewing at the expense of the rose. I should prefer to put
out strong plants from pots in April for the clothing of a wall, and
I would buy them two or three months in advance, and keep them in
a pit until within three or four weeks of the time of planting, when
to prepare them they should be put in the open air in a sheltered
spot.

To describe the mode of planting would be to waste the space at
our command. But I shall say this, that I would not prune away one
inch of any climbing rose at the time of planting, but would spread
out all the shoots, and train them carefully, even if I did not mean
to keep one of them. By this procedure I should secure a free
growth of the roots, and this would constitute the foundation of
success. In the following month of April I should probably cut
them back severely, perhaps leaving only one shoot its full length,
and removing all the rest by cutting close over the roots. The
result would be several strong shoots from the bottom, from which I
should select the strongest and best placed and suppress the others.
Probably in the April following I should cut iiway the shoot left
originally for a fair beginning, having now better wood to take its
place, and a tree so vigorous that at any time it would send up new
shoots from the base at the word of command. I put this procedure
as a probability, because it would not profit the reader to lay down
strict rules. But it may be well to direct attention to the fact that
the first growth of climbing plants of all kinds is necessarily weak,
and never does acquire such robustness as will be found in shoots
subsequently thrown up from the roots. Therefore in all probability
the course of treatment above sketched out would be the best in
any ninety out of a hundred instances, but the last one might afford
exception to the rule. As to pruning in general, and some other
matters of importance, we must defer what we have to say until next
month. In case, however, this chapter should appear incomplete if
I omit entirely to refer to the pruning, I shall close it by saying that
climbing roses of all kinds require but little systematic pruning, and,
generally speaking, if never pruned at all, would grow and flower
more freely than if hacked about by an unskilful hand.

S. H.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE BEGINNER IN GEAPE GEO WING.

P.Y WIlLIAil COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

GBAND old theme is that of grape growing, but in
dealing with the elementary part of the question there
is very little to be said that is new, and what is new
has to be so interwoven with the old matter, that few
readers are able to detect it. Let it be understood at
the commencement of the few papers that will from time to time be
contributed to these pages, that they will be written for the guid-
ance of amateurs and others who are anxious to grow a few grapes,
but have little or no knowledge of the subject, and therefore all con-
troversial matters will be avoided as much as possible ; the discussion
of such matters as Extension versus Eestrietion, however much it may
interest the veteran, is injurious to the inexperienced, as it perplexes
them, and they are left in doubt as to the best course to pursue.
The whole question of extension and restriction can be disposed
of in a few words, as good crops can be, and are grown by both
systems, and either can be adopted with the utmost certainty of
success, provided the vines are otherwise managed in a proper
manner. Eor the reasons stated above, it will be necessary to deal
more fully with the minor details than would otherwise be desirable,
and the instructions will be framed in the plainest manner possible.
Acting upon Mrs. Glass's principle of first catching the hare, we
will commence with a short chapter on

PROPAGATING THE YINE.

The grape vine can be increased in various ways, but the only
methods that we need consider are in the case of in-door vines, by
eyes and inarching, and for out-door vines where the cultivator has
no glass, by cuttings. For raising a stock for planting a new
vinery or re-planting an old one, propagation by means of the eyes
is by far the best method, but when it is desired to add a new
grape to an established house of vines, 'inarching it upon the vine
whose place it is intended to occupy, and for that purpose it is the
most desirable plan to adopt.

Some varieties are not at ail suitable for stocks, such for instance
as the Frontignans and other weak growers, and therefore, before
inarching the variety it is intended to introduce, it will be necessary
to consider whether it is likely to do well upon the vine that has to
make way for it. The stocks have more influence upon the scion
than many people are aware, hence the utmost caution is necessary.
As a rule all varieties do well upon the strong growers, but the two
best for stocks are the Black Hamburgh and Muscat of Alexandria,
they will also do very well upon the Marchioness of Hastings and
the Black Barbarossa, and where they exist better sorts can be put
upon them, but they are certainly not so good as the foregoing.

10 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The manner in which inarching is performed is very simple, and
failures are next to impossible. About a month before the vines
start into growth, whether forced or not, is the best time for per-
forming the operation. First of all, determine upon where the scion
is to be put, bring the two vines together and form a secure resting-
place for the pot in which the young one is growing, then shave off
a small strip of bark from the stock and a similar piece from the
scion, join the two wounds together, and fasten them securely by
means of strong yet soft matting, bound round firmly. To keep out
the air and prevent the wounds drying, put a moderate quantity of
grafting clay over the bandage, and finish it off" by fixing a little moss
over the clay to prevent its cracking and falling oif. The best
position for inarching the young vine on the stock is near the
bottom of the rafter, and some means must be adopted to elevate
the pot in which the latter is growing to the desired height. The
young vine must be cut back to where the wood is thoroughly
hardened, and about two buds allowed above the junction.

As the old vine commences to make new growth, the young
shoots towards the bottom must be gradually rubbed off, but the
shoots towards the top must be allowed to remain, and a few bunches
of grapes left on if desirable. If, however, the young vine is
attached to wood of the previous year, the latter should be pruned
previously to about four buds above the intended junction, and the
young growth proceeding therefrom constantly stopped during the
summer to prevent its robbing the young vine. The junction will
not be effected so quickly when the young vine is joined to an old
rod, but it is very objectionable to attach it to young wood pro-
ceeding from an ugly spur, such as we usually meet with on old
vines. The union will be effected in about six weeks after the
vines begin to make 'new growth, and as the wood will swell very
rapidly, the bandage must be loosened occasionally to prevent its
arresting the regular flow of the sap. Considerable care is requisite
in doing this, as they soon separate if handled in a careless manner.
The best means of preventing a mishap is to put a piece of matting-
round them just below and above the wound, independently of that
which is employed for holding them together, and if all are not
unloosened at the same time, it will be almost impossible for an
accident to occur. The young vine can be cut off just below the
union, and the pot removed as soon as they grow together, or it can
remain until the winter pruning. Some time after the vines are at
rest, cut the old rod back close to the young one, and prune the
latter to half its length, or to within two or three buds of it ; leave
according to its strength, and whether the wood is well or badly
ripened, it should in fact be pruned and otherwise managed in
exactly the same manner as a young vine on its own roots.

To increase vines by cuttings, select stout well-ripened shoots of
about six inches in length, remove all but the two top eyes and
insert them at the foot of a warm sunny wall. If inserted soon
after the commencement of the new year few will fail, and if properly
attended to during the summer they will make strong canes by the
end of the season. Only one shoot should be allowed to remain to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 11

each, and the young growth must be secured to the wall by means
of nails and shreds to prevent them being injured by rough winds.
They should also be taken up and replanted annually, until they are
put in their permanent quarters to encourage the production of
short fibry roots. When left in the same position for several years
they suffer severely when transplanted, and very seldom make much
growth during the first season.

To ensure the most successful results in propagating vines from
eyes, the aid of a nice genial hot-bed is requisite. The eyes will
strike without bottom heat, yet they strike much quicker when the
pots are partly plunged in a hot-bed, and a considerable saving of
time is the result. Many grape-growers strongly recommend the
eyes to be put in some time in January, and some advise their being
put in in December, but from many years' close observation I am
convinced that eyes inserted early in March will produce better
canes by the end of the season than those inserted in either of the
foregoing months. "When propagation is commenced too early, the
soil becomes rather sour by the time the roots are formed, and
they do not take kindly to it, and the growth also is weak, because
of the insufficiency of light for the elaboration of the sap. March
eyes start into growth at once, and grow away freely. They have
the assistance of an abundance of light, and require less artificial
heat.

Moderately stout and well matured wood should be selected
from which the eyes are to be taken ; but size is of secondary
consideration, provided it is well ripened. Prepare the eyes by
cutting them with about three-quarters of an inch of wood above and
also below the bud, then shave off, in a slanting direction, a small
portion of the wood at each end on the under side, and they will be
ready for inserting in the soil. Each eye should he potted sepa-
rately in three-inch pots, filled with a compost consisting of sandy
loam, leaf-mould, and a small proportion of well decayed manure.
Partly plunge the pots in a hot-bed, and maintain the soil in a
moderately moist condition. A cucumber or melon-frame suits
them admirable, as the atmospheric moisture usually maintained in
these structures is eminently favourable to the production of roots
and a vigorous growth. The pots can either be partly plunged in
the bed round the mounds of soil, or they can be placed upon the
surface, as may be the most convenient. Where there is no frame or
hot-house in which to place them, put them in the warmest part of
the greenhouse, and where the sun can shine upon the pots and
warm the soil. Even in a greenhouse, by giving them the full
advantage of the warmth from the sun, and sprinkling the surface
of the soil with rather warm water occasionally, there will not be any
difficulty in striking them.

The young vines must be shifted into larger pots before they
become pot-bound, or they will experience a decided check. They
should be put in six-inch pots, and soil of the same temperature as
that of the structure in which they are grown, employed. What
has to be done with them when they arrive at this stage must be
deferred until another occasion.

12 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE DIEFFENBACHIA.

BY J. W. SILVEB,

Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton, Somerset.

N" this genus we have a very interesting class of plants,
whicb, considering their bold and ornamental appear-
ance, and usefulness for exhibition and the dinner-table,
do not receive so much attention as they deserve. They
are, moreover, very easily managed, and all who have a
stove may, by acting upon the rules that will be laid down, grow
them most successfully. The most essential conditions for ensuring
well-developed specimens are heat, moisture, and light and open
yet moderately rich compost.

The compost I have found them succeed best in is prepared by
well incorporating together equal parts of turfy loam and fibry peat,
with an addition of about one-third of nodules of charcoal and silver-
sand. The peat and loam must be chopped up in lumps the size of
a hen's egg for small plants, and for large specimens it should be
much rougher. In either case, the finest of the soil must be sifted from
it, as it is quite impossible to grow them in close stuff that will soon
run together and become sour. A little leaf-mould may be added
with advantage to the compost in which large specimens are potted.
Liberal drainage is at all times indispensable, as they require an
abundance of water throughout their growing season. An ordinary
stove temperature, ranging in summer from 70° to 75° by artificial
heat, and by sun heat from 85° to 90°, will suit them well when
growing ; in the season of rest from 58° to 65° will be quite sufficient.
The most suitable position for the plant, when in vigorous
growth, is over an open tank, and the bottom of the pot should be
placed as near the surface of the water as they possibly can be with-
out actually touching, for none of the stove plants require more atmo-
spheric moisture than those under consideration. Erom March until
September syringe them overhead two or three times a-day, and also
pour water on the floor and walk of the house at the same time, to
ensure a thoroughly humid atmosphere. DuriDg the autumn and
winter months the supply of moisture, both at the roots and over-
head, must be lessened considerably, as it is most injurious to main-
tain them in a growing state during that period. At all seasons of
the year place them where they will have the benefit of full exposure
to light, but they must not be exposed to brilliant sunshine during the
summer season, or the foliage will be injured. It is most easy to
increase or keep up a stock. Commence by selecting an old leggy
plant that has become unsightly, and then take off the top with a
sufficient length of the stem to admit of its behig firmly inserted in
the soil. It should be potted singly, as the leading shoot invariably
makes the best plant, and at ail times a large specimen may be
obtained more quickly than from small side-shoots. The remaining
part of the stem may be cut into lengths of one joint each, and placed
in a light part of the house for two or three days to enable the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 13

wounds to heal, for when they are inserted at once the base is very-
liable to premature decay. After the wounds are nicely dried, the
cuttings may be placed in a well-drained pan filled with peaty soil,
but with an additional quantity of silver-sand, similar to that recom-
mended for established plants. Place the pans in a brisk bottom-
heat, keep the soil moderately moist, and they will soon strike and
be ready for potting off. Cuttings of the stem generally produce
several shoots, each of which can, if required, be taken off and
struck. Many cultivators keep and grow ou the old stools, but in
my estimation it is a very bad practice to do so, as they require
very careful management to induce them to break satisfactorily ;
indeed, in many cases the cuttings will make larger plants and much
sooner, besides being much handsomer. It is also very important
that the young plants are not, under any consideration, repotted
until the pots in which they are growing are well filled with roots.

Thanks to the enterprise of our nurserymen and others, there
are a considerable number of sorts in cultivation, but, instead of
enumerating all, I will give the names of a few of the best. The best
four for exhibition are D. Feared, D. grandis, D. Baraquiniana, and
D. (jigantea. The best for table decoration are D. Weiri and D.
secjuinia picta.

POTATOES.

TTRIN"Gr the past few years the potato has obtained an
immense amount of attention, and a considerable
number of new and valuable varieties have been intro-
duced to cultivation. The interest in this useful escu-
lent has been so largely augmented that it has actually
become, in many hands, a fancy article, and collections of sorts are
made with as much care as the tulip and the dahlia have received.
Our own Stoke Newington collection attained to extravagant pro-
portions. In 1865 we exhibited sixty-six varieties at the Chrysan-
themum and Fruit Show held in the Guildhall of the City of London.
By the close of 1868 we had grown on our trial ground no less than
250 sorts. The multiplying of varieties, however, though of a
necessity a matter of profound interest to the potato fancier, is
not enough to sustain the enthusiasm which animates him in his
pursuit. The real interest, after all, arises out of considerations
which society must approve, because they tend to the improvement
of our resources and of our daily food. The fact is demonstrable
that after a certain number of years the varieties lose their original
vigour and constitution, and hence in order to keep the potato in
its place in the national dietary, new sorts raised from seed — that is
to say, from the potato plum or apple — must from time to time be
taken into cultivation, to replace those that are waning in character.
Now it is for the immediate welfare of mankind that new sorts
should be produced and tested constantly, and the production and

14

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the testing constitute two most interesting pursuits, and are the
life of the potato fancy. Lately considerable interest has been
excited by the assertion that the proper way to produce new sorts
is not by seed but by grafting ; a very good kidney called Yorkshire
Hero being reported to have been raised in this manner by Mr.
Almond. The first systematic account of the grafting process was
made public by Mr. Taylor, of Fencote, in the " Gardeners' Maga-
zine " of March 28, 18G8, and considerable discussion ensued, in
the course of which we expressed our opinion that grafting would
never produce new varieties, and to this day there is not an
authenticated case known, save and except, we believe, that referred
to above, the genuineness of which may be questioned without the
slightest imputation on the good faith of Mr. Almond, who no doubt

fW^^^IOMmm^

WOOD'S SCAItLET PEOLIFIC.

believed he had produced a new variety, when probably he had
simply perpetuated an old one.

In America there is as much interest taken in potato culture as
in this country, as may be judged by the fact that in 1868 Messrs.
Bliss and Son, of New York, sent out the Early Rose potato at one
dollar per pound, and the price rapidly advanced to five dollars.
Eighty bushels wrere sold to one party for 8000 dollars. Mr. Bresee,
the raiser of the Early Rose, actually sold fifty tubers of his King of
the Earlies at fifty dollars per tuber, and 500 dollars were offered
and refused for one peck ! Amongst the trade growers, we believe
Messrs. Sutton, of Reading, may fairly claim to represent the
potato in this country, for their collection is one of the largest, and
they exhibit extensively at all the great agricultural and horticultural

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

15

shows that take place in autumn. At one of tbe autumnal
meeting's at Kensington last year this firm presented a collection of
fifty sorts, and at the Smithfield Club Exhibition in the Agricultural
Hall they brought forward a collection which we should think com-
prised nearly one hundred varieties.

Very many experiments have been made in the cultivation of the
potato, and in many cases the results have been of immense value
and interest. Contrary to the long-cherished opinion, it has been
found that better crops can be grown with manure than without it,
and the potato proves to be similarly constituted with many other
plants in respect of at least one character, that it thrives best when
well nourished. A deep light loam is the best soil for this crop,
but we may safely say that any land on which a tuft of groundsel

buttons' beeeshiee eidney.

will grow will produce potatoes. We are now using a crop grown
last year on a piece of unmitigated clay, which had been thrown out
in making a foundation, and had no preparation whatever. The
potatoes it produced were a heavy crop of the finest quality. Deep
digging and plentiful manuring are, however, necessary prepa-
ratives, more especially as it is desirable to promote a rapid growth,
with a view to the removal of the crop as early as possible. There
is nothing gained by planting over close, in fact it is better to allow
too much room than too little, but a distance of four feet between
the rows, and of three feet between the sets, may be considered
sufficient for the productive main crop varieties, and half those
distances for the comparatively unproductive early sorts. The
potato is a most exhaustive crop, for in one ton of tubers
there will be of potash 11 lbs., soda 1 lb., lime | lb., magm>ia
1 lb., sulphuric acid 4 lbs., phosphoric acid 2£ lbs., chlcrine li lbs.

16 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

All good soils contain all these ingredients, but their removal by
cropping necessitates manuring, and it is evident that for the potato
we require a manure rich in potash and phosphorus. Good stable
manure is the best manure for potatoes where it can be obtained cheap.
Guano is immensely beneficial, but, generally speaking, it is too dear.
Anew mineral manure, called "kainit" peculiarly rich in potash,
appears to be the best for the potato field, as it costs only four
pounds per ton, and if dug in with superphosphate at the rate of 5
cwt. per acre will produce a crop three times as heavy as the same
land would produce without it, except in those few cases where
manure is not at all required.

We have had no potato plague since 1866, when we grew a
crop on tiles, and proved that in a bad season this system may be
depended on to save the crop. We were so fortunate as to obtain
at a pottery a tile admirably adapted for the purpose, but as it was
not made for the purpose, we should be doing our readers no
service by directing them to the makers. Any tile that can be
employed in such a way that the potatoes will, when planted, be
placed upon them, with a hollow tunnel beneath, will answer
the purpose. The common roofing tile may be considered a good
model, but it should be double the ordinary size to afford a fair test
of the system. And here we must remark that in such a summer as
that of 1870 tiles would be useless, and they might indeed be
injurious, though I shall take care to say that, judging from my
experiences in potato growing, they might be always used with
advantage. However, the case is as clear as I can put it. In 1866
we had our trial-ground literally covered with heaps of filth, con-
sisting of diseased potatoes. The few rows grown on tiles were
sound and good, and the cost of the tiles was more than paid for.
In the hot summers of 1868 and 1870 we had no tiles in use, and
therefore obtained no experiences of the value of tiles in hot and dry
seasons.

Potato disease ! It is one of the greatest calamities with which
we are familiar. My tile system, whether good or bad, aims directly
at it as a remedial or preventive agent. Whence comes disease ?
From the sun we may say. Tes, the potato disease may be
described as cosmical. If the sun happens to be covered with spots
on the disk next us in July and August, the potato fields are
ravaged by the murrain. The potato is peculiarly the product of
Sunshine : in hot, dry summers the crop is good ; in cold, wet
summers the crop is bad ; if chilly rainy weather occurs at the end
of July, and continues through August (as in 1866), the crop is
almost annihilated. We make a joke of the value of an " if ;" but
if, yes, if we could predict our seasons, we could in a great
measure make sure of a potato crop in good and bad seasons alike.
IF we knew a bad season to be coming, we should plant on tiles
without manure, and be content with a smallish crop, harvested in
good condition, but for a good season should dispense with the
tiles, and manure heavily, so as to make the very most of the
fructifying sunshine.

All other vital points in potato culture may be summed up in

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 17

four advices: — 1. Select the best sorts obtainable, without any-
timid consideration of price, but do not for other than fancy pur-
poses pay fancy prices for sorts. 2. Plant early, say in February if
possible, but without fail in March, and if the tops are cut off b}r
frosts in May, take comfort that new tops will appear almost imme-
diately afterwards. 3. Take up just before the haulm is com-
pletely withered, as every day gained is something towards the
certain saving of the crop, and the roots are ripe before the haulm
is completely withered. 4. Select for sets perfect tubers, averaging
4 oz. to 6 oz. in weight, and give all the chats and mutilated
rubbish that are commonly used as '' seed " to the pigs. You may
think these advices fanciful, but carry them out with spirit, and
instead of some seven or eight tons per acre, you may harvest
fifteen to twenty, which will pay for extra cost and care. On our
heavy land we obtain twenty tons per acre in a good season, and
none at all (without tiles) in a bad one.

A SELECTION OP POTATOES OP THE PINEST QUALITY IN THEIR
SEVERAL CLASSES.

Early Kidneys. — Veitch's Prolific Ashleaf, Royal Ashleaf,
Sutton's Racehorse, Sandringham.

Early Rounds. — "Williams's Victoria, Smith's Early, or Cold-
stream, Early Cockney, Early Goodrich.

Second Early Kidneys. — Mona's Pride, Huigh's Kidney,
Erin's Queen, Yorkshire Hero.

Second Early Rounds. — Daintree's Early, King of Potatoes,
Milky White, Early Pink-eyed Kemp.

Main Crop Kidneys. — Webb's Imperial, Sutton's Berkshire
Kidney, Belgian Eluke, Prince of Wales's Kidney, Red Ashleaf.

Main Crop Rounds. — Wood's Scarlet Prolific, Sutton's Red-
skin Elourball, Early Rose, Fortyfold, Wellington, Paterson's Vic-
toria, Bresee's Prolific.

Market Potatoes. — Sutton's Redskin Elourball, Belgian
Fluke, Fortyfold, Skerry Blue, White Rock, Walker's Regent,
Paterson's Victoria, Red Regent, Webb's Imperial.

S. H.

A NOTE ON" WATERING FRUIT TREES IN WINTER.

BY A KENTISH GARDENER.

jiT was perhaps a surprise to many of the fruit-growing
readers of the Floral World to learn that the most
frequent cause of peach, nectarine, cherry, and other
fruit trees grown under glass, shedding their flower-
buds prematurely, is due to dryness at the roots when
they are at rest. It is a very common practice for inexperienced
cultivators to keep the inside borders of fruit-houses as dry as it is
possible to keep them during the period between the trees shedding
their leaves until they begin to make new growth in the^followiiv
spring ; hence the number of failures in the cultivation 'of indoor

VOL. VI. — NO. I. 2

18 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fruits that occur annually. It is not necessary for us to stop to
inquire how or from whence this erroneous impression originated, as
it is quite sufficient for us to know that the practice of keeping the
soil in which fruit-trees are planted perfectly dry when the trees
are at rest, will be resented by the flower-buds dropping off just as
the anxious cultivator is expecting them to expand. It is not desirable
that inside borders should be kept in as moist a condition during
the winter as others in the open air are kept during the same
period, as it may possibly be injurious to the trees; but the soil
must be moderately moist, even when the trees do not evince the
slightest symptoms of vitality. Fruit-trees, iinlike bulbous or
tuberous-rooted plants, have no vast storehouse from whence they
can receive support when they are deprived of their ordinary sup-
plies, and are therefore utterly unable to undergo a season of starva-
tion without being injured in some way.

A very large quantity of water is not required to keep the inside
borders in a properly moist condition, and, generally speaking, one
or two thorough soakings during winter will be sufficient. I would
urge all fruit-growers who have any doubts as to the condition of
the borders under their charge, to examine them at once, and
water them copiously if they are dry. If the trees are in a
healthy state, and the border from long usage has become impo-
verished, the drainings from the manure heap and stables should be
used instead of clear water. That obtained from the last-mentioned
source should be diluted with wrater, for if used too strong the roots
will be injured; but the exact quantity that must be added must be
determined by its strength. The trees will not receive any imme-
diate benefit from the fertilizing matter contained in the liquid
manure, but it will enrich, and become thoroughly assimilated with
the soil, and be of more assistance to the trees when they com-
mence an active growth than it would be if applied to the border
when they are in full activity.

The foregoing remarks are of especial importance to the owner
of pot-trees, which usually suffer more from dryness at the root
than trees planted out in a border. It is by no means an unusual
occurrence to meet with pot-trees huddled up into one corner of the
orchard-house, to make way for bedding and other plants, and then
utterly neglected, if they are not forgotten altogether, until the
season for starting them into growth comes round again. Trees in
pots ought to be watered often enough to prevent the soil becoming
idust dry ; but fruit-growers generally may save themselves much
trouble and vexation by taking pot-trees into the open air, and by
removing the lights from houses in which the trees are planted per-
manently, as soon as the crop is gathered. The rains and dews
assist in keeping under red-spider and other insect pests, and the
foliage is maintained in a healthy condition until the last moment,
and the result is fine plump buds which nothing but the worst
management will cause to fall off prematurely.

It is not wise to expose peach and nectarine trees to very severe
frosts, such as those which occurred in the winter of 1866-7, and
therefore, after the commencement of the new year, the lights

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 19

should be put on again, and pot-trees taken under cover, or laid on
their sides, and a moderate thickness of litter thrown over them.
It will, perhaps, be as well to add, that when in the open air the
pots must be protected with long litter or leaves to prevent the frost
splitting them.

If it appears late in the season to offer these suggestions, it must
be remembered that the roots of orchard-house trees do not gene-
rally become dry until January, and then it is that severe frost may
be expected. Hence, perhaps, this paper is strictly seasonable, and
in any case it is better to speak late than not speak at all.

JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

BY ROBERT OUBEIDGE,

Church Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington, N.

HE Japaness Chrysanthemums, considered as " florists' "
flowers, are decidedly inferior to the incurved varieties,
which have descended from the species originally in-
troduced from China, hence they do not enjoy the
popularity to which they are so justly entitled. For
exhibition purposes they are well-nigh useless, because when grown
into large, well-trained specimens, they have not such a finished
appearance as those belonging to the other classes, and can hardly
be tolerated ; but for conservatory decoration, when grown in a
natural manner, they are of the utmost value. The flowers of most
of the varieties are of the richest and moit distinct colours, and all
are more or less novel and fantastic in form. Grown in the manner
as here suggested, the flowers have a peculiarly light and elegant
appearance, which is entirely wanting in all the others ; and as many
of them do not flower until late in the year, the chrysanthemum
season can, with care, be prolonged very nearly until Christmas.
They should not, however, be grown exclusively, or in greater num-
bers than the varieties belonging to the other sections, for to pro-
duce the best effect a fair number of each section must be grown.

The few suggestions respecting their cultivation will apply to
the large-flowering varieties generally, and I would strongly advise
my readers to grow all the plants intended for conservatory decora-
tion with as little stopping and as few stakes and ties as possible.
Huge, closely-trained specimens look very well upon the exhibition
stage, and it would be waste of time to say anything against them ;
but they are entirely out of place in the conservatory, for by the
most skilful hand they cannot be arranged to produce[such a pleasing
effect as a group of untrained plants with about half-a-dozen flowers
upon each.

"Where the conservatory is lofty, or where the plants can be
placed on the floor, they should be grown without stopping at all, as
the flowers will be much larger and of better quality than those

20 THE FLORAL WOULD AISD GARDEN GUIDE.

upon plants the growth of which is pinched hack several times
during the season to keep them dwarf. Where, however, the con-
servatory is of the usual height, and the plants have to be placed
on stages several feet above the ground level, it is necessary to stop
the shoots once or twice, or the flowers will be too far from the eye
to admit of their being seen with any degree of comfort. Early
propagation is only necessary when exhibition specimens are
required, and the first week in March is quite early enough to com-
mence ; but the work must not be delayed after that period. When
the cuttings are put in previous to that date, a gentle bottom-heat
is necessary, and the plants also become somewhat " leggy " and
leafless by the time they come into flower. When, however, they
are struck in March, the shelter of a cold frame is all that is neces-
sary in the way of shelter ; and if the plants are not neglected
during the summer, they will be furnished with leaves down to the
rim of the pot. Select healthy cuttings of about three inches in
length, remove the two lower pair of leaves, and insert them in three-
inch pots, three or four in each. Place the pots in a cold frame, and
shade during bright sunshine to prevent the sun burning them ;
sprinkle them lightly once a day, if required, to prevent the leaves
flagging, and they will soon strike and be ready for potting off. A
little air must be admitted during warm, sunny weather, after the
first few days, to maintain a sweet atmosphere, and the cuttings
must not be overwatered, or a large proportion will damp off. Pot
the cuttings off singly into three-inch pots immediately they are well
rooted, and before they become pot-bound ; for when the roots are
allowed to run together before the plants are separated, the young
and tender fibres are broken about, and the plants receive a severe
check in consequence. They should be kept in a cold frame, or be
placed so that a mat can be thrown over them during frosty weather.
But during their stay in the frame they must be freely exposed to
the air to prevent the possibility of the growth becoming drawn up
weakly. Nine and ten-inch pots are the most suitable sizes for flower-
ing them in, and until they are put in these sizes they must not on
any account be allowed to become pot-bound. Frequent shifts are
not however required, and for all ordinary purposes the plants
should be shifted into six-inch pots, and from thence into the size in
which they are to flower. The pots must be clean, and sufficient
crocks, with a layer of rough turfy soil over them, placed in the
bottom to carry off the water quickly, and prevent the soil becoming
sour through remaining in a saturated condition for a considerable
length of time. Chrysanthemums are not very particular with
respect to the sort of soil they are grown in, provided it does not run
together ; but the compost which suits them best is one consisting
of turfy loam that has been stacked in a heap for a few months, two
parts, and incorporated with one part of well-decayed stable or hotbed
manure. When they are removed to the open, place the pots upon a
bed of coal-ashes to keep the worms out of them ; and to make the
work of watering them as light as possible, fill the space between the
pots with cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or partly-decayed leaves. At no
stage of their growth must they be allowed to suffer from drought ;

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 21

and after they have been in their blooming pots about a fortnight,
water alternately with weak liquid manure, and continue its use until
they are taken' indoors. The growth must not be stopped more
than twice, if stopped at all, but, generally speaking, once will be
quite sufficient, and the last stopping should be performed a few days
after the plants are repotted for the last time. When stopped once,
only pinch the growing point out about a fortnight after the plants
are shifted into six-inch pots. Except for those which are stopped more
than once, a single stake to each is all that is necessary ; but a
stout stake fixed in the ground at the end of each row, and joined
together by means of a stout piece of wire, to which each plant can
be fastened, will be of great service in preventing them being
blown about and injured by the wind. All but the end or terminal
bud to each shoot must be removed as soon as they are large
enough, or the flowers will be small in size and poor in quality. The
plants should be taken indoors soon after the middle of October,
and the conservatory must be well ventilated and the atmosphere
dry to preserve the freshness and beauty of the flowers as long as
possible. As they go out of flower, cut them down and place in a
cold frame, to protect the young growth from frost, or there will be
a difficulty in securing a supply of cuttings for the following season.
The names and colours of twenty-six of the best of the
old varieties are as follows : — Aurantium, clear golden yellow ;
Aurora, bright orange yellow ; Bonle de Neigc, white ; Chang, red
and orange ; Clorinde, crimson, yellow centre ; Comet, bright orange
yellow ; Cromatella, bright chrome or orange yellow ; Br. Masters,
bright yellow ; Emperor of China, blush-white ; Giant, pale lilac ;
Grandiflora, golden yellow ; James Salter, clear lilac mauve ; Jupiter,
amber, changing to buff; Madame Godillot, reddish brown; Manda-
rin, bright canary yellow ; Nagasaki Violet, rosy violet with golden
disc ; Negro, deep maroon ; Prince Satsurna, bright yellow ; Red
Dragon, red chesnut, tipped with yellow ; Red Indian, Indian red ;
Simon Delaux, reddish bronze ; The Daimio, pale pink, changing to
rose ; The Mikado, golden yellow ; The Sultan, rosy lilac ; Wizard,
bright red rich maroon ; Yellow Lilac, rose lilac and lighter centre,
curiously incurved.

]STOTES OjN" PALMS.

BY F. W. BUBBIDGE,

Baiklon, near Leeds.

ALMS are so graceful in character and elegant in outline
that it is impossible to speak too highly of them. The
strong-growing kinds are the most useful for deco-
ration of the stove and conservatory, whilst for table
decoration small-growing plumose species are unsurpass-
able. "When we take into consideration the ease with which they are
grown, it seems somewhat singular that they have not hitherto been

22 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

cultivated more extensively in this country. Some of tlie more
hardy species will grow readily in an ordinary sitting-room without
any attention beyond giving them a good supply of water when
necessary, and occasionally sponging the foliage to remove dust and
other impurities. They are admirably adapted for this purpose, and
have a more graceful appearance than the long-legged, scraggy pelar-
goniums that are too often met with in such situations. It cer-
tainly cannot be their price that prevents their being more generally
grown, since many of the most popular sorts are not more expen-
sive than the ordinary run of stove plants. Seeds are occasionally
to be had, and are sometimes advertised in the horticultural periodi-
cals. Seedlings may be purchased in some of the continental nur-
series in the seed pots for a trifle, and perhaps our own nurserymen
could so supply them if desired. This arrangement would suit those
amateurs who have not much money to spare for plant buying, or who
like to grow their own plants.

In sowing the seeds of such sorts as can be procured, place them
regularly in well-drained five-inch pots, in a mixture of fresh turfy
loam, peat, and a little sand. The number of seeds in a pot will
depend much on their size, and this may be left entirely to the culti-
vator. After they are sown, place the pots in a gentle bottom-heat ;
if plunged in a hot-bed of leaves, tan, or manure, so much the
better. A newly-made cucumber bed will be just the place for
them. Some germinate in a few weeks, while others remain months
before they throw up their delicate green plumules above the soil.
Then comes the pleasure of watching their first tiny leaves unfold,
and of carefully turning them out and potting them, if singly, into
small pots, as palms must not be disturbed at the roots more than
can be possibly helped. Indeed, if they are turned out of the pots
and the ball of soil reduced, and a large proportion of the roots
trimmed off" in the same way as many soft-wooded plants are root-
pruned, numbers of them will perish.

Palms should be repotted annually when in a young state and
growing vigorously ; but afterwards once in two years will be quite
often enough ; and when they attain a very large size, a shift every
three or four years will be all that they require. The pots must be
drained efficiently, as they require liberal supplies of water at all
seasons of the year, but more especially while making their new
growth an abundance of water is required. If therefore the drain-
age is ineffective, the soil will soon become sour, and the roots will
perish. Specimens after remaining in the same pots for several years
should be assisted occasionally during the growing season with weak
liquid manure, but previous to their becoming pot-bound it will be
better for them to be watered with clear rain water, or water that
has been exposed to the atmosphere some time before it is used.

Sound turfy loam, chopped up roughly, and a moderate quantity
of silver sand then mixed with it, forms a capital compost in which
all the species at present in general cultivation can be satisfactorily
grown. Until quite recently palms were entirely neglected by
gardeners generally, and by nurserymen also, and very few species were
obtainable in this country. The public taste has, however, under-

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

23

gone a change, and they are now much sought after, and in a trade
list before me I find that upwards of 200 species can be pur-
chased in this country. All the sorts that will be enumerated are
remarkably beautiful in a young state, and a moderately large collec-
tion can be grown in a medium sized house. I will now glance
through the list, and pick out a few of the most beautiful and dis-
tinct sorts that can be procured at prices ranging from five shillings
to as many guineas. Small plants of the commoner sorts can be
had for less than five shillings at some of the principal nurseries.
"The species that I should recommend for forming the nucleus of a
•collection, so far as means will permit, are the following : —

Areca lutescens. — This
free-growing palm is per-
haps less elegant than
many others, but in a
young state it is very
beautiful, and the bright
yellow petioles render it
very effective when under
the influence of artificial
light.

Arecarubra. — This dif-
fers from the preceding in
petioles being of a deep
brownish red colour in-
stead of yellow. Both
can be grown successfully
in a warm greenhouse,
but the former is the
hardiest of the two.

Calamus dealbatus. —
This is the Madagascar
-Silver Palm, and one of
the most beautiful species
yet introduced to this
country. The leaves are
elegantly pinnate, glossy
green above, and silvery
white beneath ; petioles
brownish, and set with
slender spines, which
point backwards. Should
be grown in the stove.

Calamus spectabilis. —
A most beautiful-growing species, recently introduced from Malacca.
The leaves are borne on green petioles set with white spines, tipped
with brown, elegantly pinnate, and of bright green colour. Also
require a stove temperature.

Chamcedorea sjteotabilis. — Another dinner-table plant of elegant
appearance ; leaves glossy light green, petioles conspicuous ; the whole
i)orne by a slender stem. Stove temperature suits it admirably.

D^EMONOEOPS ACOIDENS.

24 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Cliamcedorea graminifolia. — A slender stemmed palm with long
curved foliage. Its delicate plumose appearance renders it attrac-
tive, and of great value as a decorative plant.

Ghamcedorea Wendlandii. — Leaves deep glossy green, gracefully
arched, very beautiful.

Chamcerops JFortunei. — One of the most handsome fan palms for
greenhouses, conservatories, and indoor apartments. In sheltered
situations it is quite hardy.

Chamcerops liumilis. — This also is very hardy in constitution and
handsome in appearance. The leaves are fan-shaped, and of a dull
green colour. This and the preceding are now very cheap.

Cocoa Weddeliana, syn. Leopoldina pidchra. — This is of all palms
perhaps the most beautiful. It is of a dwarf, compact habit, with
gracefully arched plumose fronds of a dark glossy green colour. It
is from Brazil, and does well in a warm greenhouse. It is one of
the very best that can be used for dinner-table decoration, but is at
present too expensive to admit of its being employed extensively for
that purpose.

Coryplia australis. — Although not so beautiful as many of the
stove palms, this species is very desirable. It is well adapted for in-
door apartments, being very neat in growth and hardy in constitution.

Dcemonorops accidens. — A neat-growing species of the most grace-
ful outline, as will be seen by the accompanying sketch. The leaves
are of a bright glossy green, and very effective in appearance when
under the influence of artificial light. It must have the assistance
of a stove temperature to grow it satisfactorily.

Dcemonorops plumosa. — Like the preceding, of most elegant
growth, and one of the very best palms for table decoration. It
requires stove temperature.

Euterpe edulis. — For lofty houses and for table decoration, in a
young state, this is one of the most useful. The leaves are pinnate
and gracefully arch outwards. Well-developed specimens four or
five feet in height may be grown in six and eight-inch pots. Should
be placed in the stove.

Geonoma Ghiesbreclitiana. — A highly ornamental species, with
irregular pinnate foliage ; very elegant. Requires the warmth of a
stove.

Latania borbonica. — This fine and well-known species is not so
valuable for the table as those of a more plumose habit of growth,
but it is one of the most ornamental and useful species grown for
the conservatory, vestibule, and sitting-room. The leaves are fan-
shaped, spreading, and of a pleasing shade of light green.

Licuala pieltata. — Leaves dark glossy green, five or six lobed, the
lobes being toothed at the apex ; petioles spinose. Very distinct,
and well worthy of extensive cultivation. Must be grown in the
stove.

Livistonia australis. — A beautiful fan-leaved species, well adapted
for the decoration of sitting-rooms or as a window plant, being of a
highly ornate character, and possessing a most robust constitution.
Does well in the greenhouse.

. Malortica simplex, syn. Geonoma fenestralis. — This is a dwarf and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

25

very elegant species, that should be obtained if possible. It may-
be recognized by the slits at the base of its glossy dark green leaves.
Not hardy enough for the greenhouse.

Martinezia caryotoefolia. — A distinct and unique species of a
glaucous green colour, with irregular pinna? and long dark spines on
the petioles. It is of
compact habit. In some
nurseries it is known as
Martinezia brassico>folia.
Must be grown in the
stove.

Ptyclwsperma excelsa.
— Very distinct in cha-
racter, the leaves being
bilobed, and closely re-
sembling the tail of a fish.
Requires a stove tem-
perature.

Bhapis Jlabelliformis,
foliis variegata. — This is
a free-growing species,
with dark glossy leaves
striped with straw-colour,
and, being very orna-
mental in its character,
is worth every attention.
The green-leaved form is
also very pretty and neat-
growing, and well adapted
for sitting-rooms. It is
also very cheap, which is
a matter of considerable
importance to most ama-
teur horticulturists. The
variegated form is as yet
very expensive.

Seq/'orthia elegans. —
Strong-growing and effec-
tive, the bold pinnate leaves having a strikingly ornamental appear-
ance. One of the best for the greenhouse, and it will grow vigo-
rously when placed in the open air during the summer.

Seafurthia Veitcliii. — This noble species has the fine bold appear-
ance of the preceding, but it is far more beautiful. It is rather
new and expensive, and does well in the conservatory.

Thrinax elegans, — A beautiful species, with dark glossy fan-shaped
leaves, borne on gracefully curved smooth petioles. Should be
grown in the stove.

Thrinax gracile.—A. distinct and very elegant member of a well-
known and most beautiful genus. Like the preceding, must be
grown in the stove.

Welfia regia. — A distinct plant, with pinnate foliage of a dark

LICUALA PELTATA.

26 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

green colour, except the youngest growth, which is of a red or
crimson tint. Very beautiful, and oue of the best for table deco-
ration. Requires the assistance of a stove temperature.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

j]VERYTHINGr in the horticultural world has been so
dull and cheerless duriug the last two months, that
there is very little of interest to write about. It is
true that during the mouth of November we had the
chrysanthemum shows, but they were all, with the ex-
ception of those held at Bristol and Liverpool, very much alike.
Some day or other the managers of the chrysanthemum societies in
and around the metropolis will, no doubt, follow the example of
their brethren at the towns mentioned above, and invite ornamental
leaved and miscellaneous flowering plants and fruit to their exhibi-
tions. The importance of not confining autumn exhibitions to
chrysanthemums has already been pointed out in these pages, there-
fore I will not occupy valuable space in going over the same ground
again. There was a great dearth of novelties at all the exhibitions,
for by the retirement of Mr. Salter from business through the
railway company taking his nursery, we have lost one of the very
best raisers of new varieties. The only new varieties exhibited
during the whole season were a few at the meeting of the Floral
Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, held in November,
and one at the exhibition held at Stoke Newington. For the benefit
of chrysanthemum growers generally I herewith subjoin the names
and descriptions of the best sorts staged upon the occasion referred
to. The best of the batch which came from Mr. Bull, of the King's
Road, Chelsea, was Jane Salter, a grand Japanese variety, with
flowers measuring about seven inches in diameter, and of a pleasing
shade of pink. Certainly a most valuable acquisition, because of its
early-flowering qualities, and therefore a fine companion to James
Salter, which is one of the most beautifully coloured varieties of the
Japanese section. The other variety shown by Mr. Bull was
Renown, a large finely-incurved flower of a buff or brownish orange
colour. Messrs. E. G-, Henderson and Son, of St. John's Wood,
had two good Japanese varieties that will ultimately become popular.
They were, Bismarck, large and double, with broad sword-shaped
florets of a dull orange hue ; and Erecta Superba, a grand flower of
medium size, but very full, and of a rich rosy crimson hue. At
Stoke Newington, Henry Little, Esq., of Cambridge Park, Twicken-
ham, exhibited a sport from Mrs. Hufiington, with flowers of a
similar colour to Lord Derby. The flowers are too small to admit of
its ever becoming popular, but it will nevertheless be useful for the
conservatory. Mr. Little is a most devoted admirer of the chrysan-
themum, and cultivates something like 300 varieties. The whole of
the plants are grown without stopping or training, and the results

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 27

are plants that can be grouped together in the most effective manner,
and flowers of* the finest quality. Mr. Little kindly invited me to
see his collection about the middle of November last ; and although I
have seen some good displays of chrysanthemums in private gardens,
tbat in the conservatory at Cambridge Park was certainly the
best.

Very few things indeed that possess general interest were con-
tributed to the meeting of the Floral and Fruit Committees of the
Royal Horticultural Society, held in December. One of the most
striking novelties was Selaginella Martensi albo-lineata, exhibited by
Messrs. Perkins and Son, of Coventry. It differs from the species
in being more elegant in growth, and the tips of the young growth
are of a creamy white. For dinner-table decoration, and other
purposes, it will be held in high esteem for many years hence. As
it is of free growth, and very easily propagated, we may soon look
for it at a price within the reach of all. Tree Carnations were toler-
ably well represented. Messrs. E. Gr. Henderson and Son had a
small collection, but they were unnamed, and therefore did not
contribute much to the edification of the visitors.

Two new tree carnations — White Nun, with large and remarkably
full flowers of the purest white, combined with a very vigorous
habit ; and Maiden's Blush, with very pale flesh-coloured flowers of
the finest form, and large in size — from Mr. W. Lee, Arundel, Sus-
sex, are most decided acquisitions. Amaryllis Spotted Gem, from
Messrs. Veitch and Sons, King's Road, Chelsea, is also deserving of
notice, for the flowers are large, of fine form, and spotted with
bright red on a cream coloured ground. Cyclamens and primulas
were contributed in plenty, but they were not in quality such as to
require any special notice, excepting Cyclamen persicum purpureum,
a grand variety, with large flowers of the richest rose purple hue
and finest form. This came from the gardens of H. Little, Esq.,
and was awarded a first-class certificate. Berry-bearing plants are
as yet imperfectly understood, and, therefore, the fine collection of
Hollies, Aucubas, Skimmias, etc., from Messrs. Standish and Co., of
Ascot, must have honourable mention ; and also a fine standard
specimen of Capsicum, Yellow Gem, a large yellow-fruited variety, of
great value for table-decoration during the winter, from Mr. Robins,
gardener to Sir E. C. Verrison, Oakley Park, Eye, Suffolk. The
head of the plant was about fifteen inches in diameter, and upon a
clear stem of about eighteen inches in height, and the large depen-
dant orange-coloured fruit, seen from underneath, as it would be
upon the table, had a very effective appearance.

Before the Fruit Committee, Mr. Chaff, gardener to A. Smee,
Esq., Carshalton, had a most magnificent collection of culinary and
dessert apples, numbering in all twenty-four dishes, of the highest
excellence. The collection consisted of the best sorts only, and the
names will be found in the selection of apples given in the Floral
"World for last November. Mr. Win. Paul, of Waltham Cross,
sent three new seedling grapes, and a first-class certificate was con-
ferred upon a white variety with large oval berries, and of most
excellent flavour. Its chief value, however, consists in its hanging

28 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

well, of which the plump condition of the berries shown was a suf-
ficient indication. Perhaps the feature of the meeting of most in-
terest to amateur gardeners was the splendid display of Alicante
grapes, from Mr. Wells, of Southend, grown in the ground vineries
of which he is the inventor. The bunches were of medium size,
but the berries were large and of a deep blue-black colour, and the
flavour was most excellent. Thirteen bunches were shown, and
they were stated to have been all gathered from one vine, which
proves beyond doubt that good grapes can be grown without the
aid of an expensive vinery.

Amateur gardeners have certainly no cause to complain of the
lack of interest felt in their welfare. " Mr. Looker, of the Norbiton
Potteries, Kingston-on-Thames, the inventor of the plant covers,
figured and described at page 222 of last year's volume, has recently
invented a new Garden Prame, or ground vinery, which, in my
opinion, is the best combination of earthenware and glass that has
yet been introduced to public notice. Mr. Looker, who is one of
the best amateur gardeners in the neighbourhood of Kingston, has
christened this invention the " Acme Garden Prame and Ground
Vinery ; " but as no doubt a full description, accompanied with an
illustration, will shortly be given in these pages, it is not necessary
to do more here than to announce its appearance.

Speaking of inventions reminds me of " The Victoria Electric
Thermometer," which has recently been introduced to public notice
by Mr. B. S. Williams, of the Victoria and Paradise Nurseries,
Upper Holloway. The inventor and patentee is Mr. G. Bothnie.
The invention has an immense amount of ingenuity displayed in its
construction. It consists of a peculiarly-constructed balance ther-
mometer, which, when placed in the conservatory or other structure,
will, with the assistance of a small galvanic battery and one or two
wires communicating with an indoor apartment, give warning of
any change in the temperature. The tube of the thermometer is
coiled round a central piece of wood on which the degrees are
marked, and on this is placed a sliding weight and scale so as to
slide along the top of the graduated scale, and thereby permit of its
being balanced at any temperature that may be required. Accord-
ingly, so long as the temperature of the house is equal to that
at which the index is set, the thermometer remains perfectly quiet,
but as soon as it becomes either hotter or colder, it will give warning
by ringing a bell fixed in the gardener's or other room connected
with the instrument by means of a wire. Henceforth, therefore, it
will be the amateur's own fault if he is caught napping by the frost,
and the bulk of his plants destroyed, because if the " Victoria
Electric" thermometer is placed in the conservatory, and set at
40°, it will commence ringing the bell as soon as the temperature
falls below that, and those who have charge of the structure will
know at once that a fire should be lighted. It will also be very
valuable in warehouses, as it will give notice immediately the tempe-
rature rises higher than that which those in charge of them may
consider safe.

The seed catalogues are now coming in very fast, and, as usual,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 29

a number of new flowers and vegetables are oftered. Glancing
through the lists of new vegetables, I find a few really good things
that must be noticed. Heatherside Rival and Blue Gown cucumber
are both good ; the former for frame-work, and the latter for exhi-
bition. Blue Gown is one of the handsomest cucumbers in cultiva-
tion, and the fruit averages twenty-six inches in length, and of a
uniform diameter throughout. The Chinese Mustard is a valuable
addition to our list of salad plants ; the seed-leaves are fully twice
the size, and it is ready for use two or three days before the mus-
tard usually grown. It is also more pungent in flavour. ISTew peas
are offered in considerable numbers, but the only one I should care
to speculate in is McLean's " Best of All " It is a wrinkled variety,
having large well-filled pods, and usually attaining a height of
about two and a-half to three feet. Easte's Kentish lnvicta is cheap
and worth trying. It is a round blue pea, said to be earlier than
Daniel O'Rourke, and very prolific. Why do the raisers, in enume-
rating its good qualities, say, " and being a blue pea, it is superior
in flavour to any white variety," when it is well known that blue
peas are decidedly inferior in flavour to the white varieties ? There
are, of course, people who look upon blue peas as luxuries, in just
the same manner as others prefer the watery taste of the first earlies
to the sweet, buttery taste of the wrinkled marrow's. Several new
tomatoes are also offered, but the only claim they have consists in
their being rather larger in size than those already in cultivation ;
and for exhibition purposes will no doubt be much appreciated. The
most valuable new vegetable for exhibition offered this season is
Veitch's Giant Autumn Caulijloiver, which is also of great value for
the table. The heads are of the most gigantic size, even in out-
line, and perfectly hemispherical, of the purest white and the finest
flavour ; they are well protected by the leaves, and under ordinary
cultivation will average, when perfectly solid, twelve inches in
diameter ; but by having a little extra care bestowed upon them, they
may be had much larger. People who prefer small cauliflowers, can
easily overcome all difficulty respecting the size by planting them
rather close together. G. G.

THE GABDEN GUIDE EOE JANUAEY.

Elowee Gaeden. — During the present month very little work
of importance can be done in this department. The lawn should be
thoroughly swept and rolled, to keep a good firm bottom, and to
give it a clean and cheerful appearance. Gravel walks may now be
turned. This should be done without disturbing the rough stuff
underneath, for that is not wanted on the surface. Walks when
first made should always have a sufficient depth of fine gravel on the
surface to admit of their being turned over every other year, if re-
quired. By turning them in a proper' and workmanlike manner,
they can be kept clean and in a good condition for a long time.

Kitchen Gabden. — Take advantage of frosty weather ,to wheel
manure and dressings of other materials on quarters from which the

30 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

crops are cleared. This is an important matter, for it ruins walks
to wheel upon them when they are wet and soft from the frost and
rain. Turn over and mix together manure-heaps, to assist the
decay of the various components, and prepare them for use without
further trouble when the compost is wanted in the spring. Quick
and all other hedges, with the exception of evergreens, should be
cut and repaired without delay if necessary, so as to leave as little
work of this kind as possible for succeeding weeks. Trenching and
ridging up unoccupied quarters should be carried on with activity.
The ground cannot be too rough, or too much exposed through the
winter. As Globe Artichokes are often injured by severe frost,
additional protection should be afforded the crowns. Heap round
them a good thickness of dry leaves or long litter, and cover with
soil or coal-ashes, to prevent the wind blowing the protecting
materials about. Cauliflowers under ground vineries or hand-lights
and in frames should have an abundance of air, whenever the state
of the weather will admit of its being given with safety. To keep
them as hardy and as stocky as possible, take the lights entirely off
for a few hours en fine days. Keep the foliage dry, and remove all
decayed leaves without delay. Cover the lights with mats, straw
hurdles, or long litter, on frosty nights.

Conservatoey. — As there is necessarily a mixed collection of
flowering plants in this structure during the present month, some
requiring a higher temperature than others, a little attention is neces-
sary in their disposition and arrangement to make all comfortable.
Hard-wooded plants should be arranged at the cool end, forced Bulbs
and Primulas, Justicias, Euphorbias, Violets, Lily of the Valley, and
Poinsettias, should be kept at the warmest end. "Water early in the
day, and keep the atmosphere dry, to prolong the beauty and fresh-
ness of the plants in bloom as long as possible.

GnEENHorsE. — Fire-heat must be used sparingly, but the frost
must not be allowed to enter any of the houses. Soft-wooded plants
must be kept near the glass, or they will become weak. Ericas to be
cleared of dead leaves, and have a dry air. Pelargoniums for show to
have their last potting ; keep near the glass, and look out for green-fly.
Fuchsias required in flower early to be repotted, and have a moist
heat of 60° by day and 50° by night. Scarlet geraniums to have
little or no water. Verbenas and petunias should be on a top shelf,
and be kept tolerably dry. If any appearance of mildew on any of
the inmates of this structure, dust with flowers of sulphur imme-
diately ; if any fly, fumigate with tobacco.

Forcing. — Vines to be started at 50° to 60', never higher, and
the syringe to be used freely amongst them. Peaches in bloom to
be kept well watered at the roots, but maintain a dry atmosphere to
keep the pollen dry and enable it to perform its allotted functions-
Pines in fruit, 80° by day, 65° by night ; shift succession pines at
the end of the month. Figs will bear more heat than any other
forced fruit, but too much heat or too much water will cause the
fruit to fall. Strawberries to be kept near the glass, and the pots to
stand on a warm bottom. Mushrooms must have a temperature of
55° to 65°, and the beds to be syringed frequently with tepid water ;

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 31

thrust the hand down to ascertain if the bed is moderately damp.
Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Ehubarb to be put in for succession, and
to have plenty of water.

Pits and Frames. — Pot up a few roots of musk and mint.
Commence propagating Verbenas, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Salvias,
Geraniums, Petunias, and Fuchsias. Sow in cold frame Cauliflower,
Broccoli, Shilling's Queen and Early York Cabbage, Hammersmith,
Neapolitan, and Cos Lettuce, and also a few hardy annuals to flower
early.

NOTICES TO COEEESPONDENTS.

Roses. — Rosa may cover the arches and pillars in a few years, but she cannot
have roses in the first instance large enough to cover trellises twenty feet high. The
Boursaults and Noisettes will no doubt be most valuable for the purpose. The best
climbing white is Miss Glegg. The Sempervirens and Ayrshire roses are not to be
despised. The boi-ders should be made ready by deep digging and very liberal
manuring, and the roses be planted at once.

Tree Mignonette.— W. B. R. — Tree mignonette is the same plant as we grow
in the borders ; to make a tree of it, grow it under glass, in rich soil and a warm
moist atmosphere, and train up a single stem, which keep denuded of side-branches.

Crotons. — Sibson. — You will do no good with them in a cool greenhouse. They
must have a moist stove and generous treatment, or they will become a nuisance.

Umbilicus pendulinus. — W. B. — It is scarcely worth growing, though it
occasions no trouble. We have flowered specimens in a cool fern-house, and found
them easy enough to do, provided they never wanted water.

Woodlice, Rose Stocks. — R. B. Johnson.— The, woodlice that are destroying
your rose cuttings under handlights must be trapped and killed. Scoop out a few
halves of potatoes or apples and lay them hollow side downwards amongst the cut-
tings. Every morning take them up, and you will find numbers of the vermin
inside them. Or take a number of thumb-pots and fill them lightly with moss and
place them among the cuttings without any bait at all, and the woodlice will soon
take to them for shelter.

Fruit Tree Suckers. — W. R. B. — You can do nothing with the suckers of
apricot and pear trees that crop up two or three yards from the stems, but spud
them out, and cut away the crowns or clusters of underground buds from which,
on the upper side of the roots, they will be found to proceed. The pear tree may
be trained down on the other side of the wall, and will probably bear good fruit
there ; but you must expect a branch so trained to die occasionally.

W. C. H. — The mushroom-bed has probably become too -wet and too cold.
Make up a fresh bed, using short dung only for the new material, and incorporate
the whole of the old bed with the new material. The spawn will probably run
again freely, and give you a good crop.

Amaryllis and Liliums, etc. — Subscriber. — Every kind of bulb grown in a
pot should be repotted every year, and have a complete change of soil. There can
be no better rule generally than to repot at the time when the bulbs, whatever they
are, begin to grow naturally. Amaryllis may be potted at any time after they have
had a few week's rest, and if repotted in winter they must have bottom-heat to
start them into growth ; they may be easily subjected to any routine the cultivator
may adopt, provided they are well ripened, and have some rest, being then quite dry
before being started into growth again. We always repot liliums in autumn, and
keep them in a cool pit all winter ; they begin to grow in spring, and after the
middle of April are put out of doors on a bed of cocoa-nut fibre for the remainder of
the season.

Hota carnosa. — Amateur, Clapton. — Hoya carnosa, a first-class climber for a
warm greenhouse. The plant requires a mixture of one part each of fibry peat,
silky loam, and pounded brick, and a half part of silver-sand and charcoal dust.

32 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

During winter, keep rather dry and cool, say not more than 45° on the average ; in
summer, it should be exposed to all the sunshine ^possible. This plant looks
charming when trained to the roof above the level of the eye.

Hollyhocks. — R. Smith, jun. — Hollyhocks should be planted in deep strong
loams, as they attain to finer proportions than in light soils, but they really are not
particular, provided the soil has some substance, and is liberally manured. It is
quite true that hollyhocks may be grown as annuals ; indeed, seed sown now could
be grown on to flower well this year. Grafting hollyhocks is not much in favour,
but we have seen many a fine show of flowers on grafted plants. To make a good
job of the grafting, the roots to be grafted on should be cut so as to be quite fresh
and plump when operated on, and as soon as the grafts are iuserted and tied, they
must be potted in thumbs and be plunged in a gentle moist heat. Old stools of
hollyhocks are grand as garden ornaments, but they do not produce fine flowers.

Hardy Lilies. — A Novice. — The best time in the whole year to plant hardy
lilies is the month of September. But they may be planted during the present
month, with every prospect of growing and flowering freely, provided the bulbs are
not then dried up. All bulbs which have soft coats and a soft fleshy consistence
suffer much if exposed for any length of time to the atmosphere. A very good plan
to adopt would be to obtain at once all the bulbs required for the bed, and pot them
singly in small pots in any loamy soil of a mellow texture, and place them in a cold
pit or frame, plunged in coal ashes or cocoa-nut fibre ; there let them be till April,
and then carefully plant them where they are to remain.

Destroying Woodltce.— W. S. — There is but one way to deal with them, and
that is to trap them, and if this be vigilantly followed up, every woodlouse may in
time be destroyed. Place near their haunts wooden boxes or flower-pots filled with
dry moss amd lettuce leaves, or slices of potato or apple concealed amongst the moss.
They will scent out these dainties, and take up their abodes amongst the moss.
The traps should be examined every morning, and the vermin found in them should
be at once killed. They will take shelter in any place that is dark and dry, and may
be almost as easily trapped without baits as with thorn. We have caught them in
the following manner : Large sheets of bark were stripped off some trees that had
been felled, and these were laid hollow side downwards near the haunts of the wood-
lice. In the course of a few days, the bark was crowded underneath, and the vermin
were swept off it and destroyed wholesale.

Cutting Seakai.e. — A. Young Gardener. — Seakale sent to market is cut with
about an inch of the root attached, to facilitate the carriage of it, and keeping the
heads together complete ; and usually the roots are destroyed after forcing, and the
loss of an inch is of no consequence. The regular market growers sow every year,
or raise plants from root cuttings ; therefore their practice need not guide the culti-
vator in cutting from permanent beds. In cutting from permanent beds it is best to
pass the knife close over the junction of the stem with the root, and generally speak-
ing there is a good inch of white stem firm enough for the purpose of keeping the
heads complete until they go into the hands of the cook, who must remove the root
part if the gardener cuts so low as to have any of it. The advantage of this is that
the buds of the crown are left for the next growth. But it will not injure a per-
manent bed to cut deep, even to the removal of an inch of root, for the root will
throw out crowns from any part, as may be seen on taking up an old stool, which
will be found to consist of several underground stems forking from a depth of three
to six inches from the top, forming a series of crowns.

Ferns from Spores. — B. H. — There is no mystery at all in raising fern tfrom
spores. The simplest way to raise them is to prepare a few shallow pans and bell-
glasses. Fill the pans with very small potsherds, the top stratum to be broken to
the size of peas. Over this put about an inch of a mixture consisting of equal parts
fine peat and silver-sand, and water with a fine rose. The water will carry the
fine stuff in amongst the uppermost crocks, and make a firm bed with minute points
of crocks projecting all over ; sprinkle the seed on this surface, and put the bell-
glasses on. The proper place f jr these pans is some warm and rather dark part of
the greenhouse, or the cool part of the stove will do. If they must bo placed in full
light, smear the glasses over with wet clay, to render them semi-opaque. To obviate
the necessity of watering again, bed the pans to the rim in cocoa-nut fibre, which
keep constantly moist. There are a thousand ways of raising seedling ferns if a
warm, damp, and rather dark place can be found for them.

BROCKWORTH PARK PEAR.

T1IE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 33

THE BEOCKWOETH PAEK PEAE.

{With a Coloured Illustration.)

SHE handsome pear here figured was submitted to our
notice in September last by Messrs. Wheeler and Son,
of Gloucester, who described ifc as a new variety raised
by Mr. William Lawrence, at Brockworth Park, near
Gloucester. There are so many good dessert pears
available in the early autumn months, that we could not have
assigned this a high place in the list, unless we had been quite
satisfied of its possession of features of distinguishing excellence.
It needed, however, only a fair comparison with varieties with which
it naturally came into competition to convince us that the Brock-
worth Park Pear is a distinct and valuable acquisition, and worthy
of a place in every garden where first-class pears are held in any
degree of esteem. The Brockworth Park Pear attains to a large
size ; in form it resembles Louise Bonne of Jersey, but differs from
that fruit in colour, being of a clear yellow, overspread with russet,
with a tinge of crimson next the sun. The flesh is fine in texture,
sweet, juicy, and highly aromatic. If we were required to indicate
the most distinctive quality of this pear, we should probably say
nothing of its size, or beautiful colour, or rich flavour, but refer to
its entire and uniform absence of grittiness as a more distinctive
quality than any other. Many of our finest dessert pears are gritty
at the core under some circumstances, but this appears to be a true
melting pear under all circumstances, whether on the pear stock or
the quince, whether in a good soil or a bad one. Its season extends
through September and October, when it is the finest pear at our
command. The tree is vigorous and hardy, very proline, and equally
adapted to form a bush, pyramid, standard, or espalier, according as
it may be treated ; but probably it will be generally regarded as a
model pear for a pyramid, in consequence of its naturally regular
growth, and disposition to form fruit-spurs early. In connection
with the figure of this fine pear, we are enabled to present our
readers with a practical paper on the culture of the pear by Mr.
Trussler, who has in hi3 charge at Hoddesdon a remarkably fine
collection, consisting for the most part of handsome pyramids, the
management of which is as near perfection as can be imagined. We
agree with him that, although fruit culture obtains more and more
attention every year in this country, the pear is still undervalued,
for while it must rank next to the pine and the grape as a dessert
fruit, it has the advantage of perfect hardiness, and by a judicious
selection of varieties, it is capable of embellishing the table, and
ministering to enjoyment and health, for fully nine months of the
year. Mr. Trussler's selection of varieties constitutes a valuable
guide for cultivators who wish to make or improve plantations of
dessert pears. S. H.

VOL. VI.— NO. TI.

33 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

DESSEET PEAES.

BY THOMAS TEXTSSLEK,

Head Gardener, High Leigh, Hoddesdon, Herts.

^LTHOUGrH the Pear is unquestionably the most valua-
ble of hardy dessert fruits, it must be admitted it is
not appreciated to the extent it should be, and also
that, so far as the majority of small gardens are con-
cerned, its cultivation is at present imperfectly under-
stood. The pear surpasses the peach and nectarine in usefulness,
and the plum and apple in flavour; yet, in many gardens, all these
fruits, at planting-time, are considered of the most importance.
Consequently, the walls are planted with the two first-named, and
the available space in the open quarters with the latter and the
ordinary bush-fruits before the pears are thought about. There are
many gardens in which they are considered of the first importance,
and I am happy to say that the number of these gardens is rapidly
increasing; for, by planting a judicious selection of sorts, the table
may be supplied with ripe fruit from July until the following May.
The value of the pear does not, however, consist in the length of
time it may be had in season, for it is especially valuable for the
delicious and wholesome character of its fruit, and the extreme
facility with which good crops can be produced in ordinary soils and
situations, without the assistance of a single foot of wall. There
are numerous varieties, the fruit of which is improved when the
trees are trained to a wall having a favourable aspect. Still, we
can select from the immense number of varieties at present procur-
able in this country more than sufficient for any one garden, that do
well in the open quarters. Wherever the proper means exist for
fruit-culture, all classes should be fairly represented ; but it may
safely be said that the pear should be planted more extensively, and
held in higher regard, than it hitherto has been.

Best Eokm or Teees. — It would serve no useful purpose to say
anything about either budding or grafting, because so few amateurs,
for reasons sufficiently obvious as to require no explanation, would be
able to act upon the suggestions which it would be necessary to
offer. Therefore, we will say nothing about propagation, but pro-
ceed at once to the consideration of the best forms of trees to plant
in the majority of gardens. For planting in the open quarters, we
have standards, pyramids, espaliers, bushes, and cordons. Without
beating about the bush, I will at once express my preference for
pyramids and espaliers ; the latter for planting by the sides of walks
where the garden is very small, and the former for gardens that
afford sufficient space to plant trees of larger size. Standards are
too large excepting for the orchard, and bushes and cordons are too
small to be profitable anywhere, considering the amount of labour
requisite to keep them in order. Pyramids take up less room in
proportion to their fruit-bearing capabilities than any other form ;
and as, excepting a stout stake to the main stem when first planted,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 35

neither stakes nor wire trainers are required, the expense of these
trainers, which to many is a matter of much importance, is avoided.
In the cultivation of espalier trees, either stakes or wire trainers
cannot be dispensed with, but the trees will more than repay the
cost, especially as they take up so little space. Pyramidal trees are
also much handsomer in appearance ; and well-grown trees of many
of the sorts form beautiful objects, and are well adapted for the
embellishment of the lawn and shrubberies. "When in full bloom,
they are unsurpassed by any of the early-flowering shrubs and
trees ; but when, in the autumn, the branches are borne down by
their handsome and, in many instances, highly-coloured fruit, they
are unequalled in the beauty and grandeur of their appearance.
In well-appointed gardens, where there is space sufficient to admit
of everything being kept in its proper place, the fruit-trees ought to
be strictly confined to departments set apart for the fruit and vege-
tables ; but with small gardens the case is entirely different, and
there is nothing objectionable in having a few handsome fruit-trees
upon the lawn or in the shrubbery-borders. Trees against walls can
be trained with the side-branches spreading horizontally from a per-
pendicular main stem, or the fan mode of training may be adopted.
Of the two, the latter is the best, although the trees do not present
such an artistic appearance.

Stocks and Planting. — Nearly all the best varieties do well
upon the quince stock in naturally deep and fertile soils ; but, in
those of a poor, sandy nature, very few indeed do any good upon
that stock. They make so little wood, and bear so freely, that in a
few years the trees perish. To obtain fully-developed fruit, a healthy
growth is essential ; hence, in all but the richest soils, select trees
upon the pear stock. The trees will certainly require more space
for their development, but it must be added that one healthy tree
will produce finer and a larger quantity of fruit than two or three
miserable, half-starved scrubs. They should be planted at a distance
of about five or six feet apart in the open quarters ; but it is a
capital plan to put a row of trees on each side of the walks in the
kitchen-garden, at a distance of about four feet from them. The
space between the walk and the trees can be utilized by planting
such things as lettuces and radishes, which do not impoverish the
soil much ; and they are also most valuable for growing the plants
during the summer that are employed for the winter and spring
decoration of the flower-garden.

In purchasing the trees, select healthy and well-formed speci-
mens ; and give preference to those that are strong enough to pro-
duce a crop within two or three years after they are planted. It is
no gain whatever to purchase small trees because they are sixpence
or a shilling cheaper, and then have to wait two or three years
longer before they arrive at a bearing state. The really cheapest
trees to buy are those from three to four feet in height, moderately
bushy, and ranging from four to five years of age. Plant early in
October, or as soon after as may be convenient, as the soil is then
warm, and the roots take to it kindly, and soon become established.
They can, however, be most successfully planted during February

36 TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

and March ; but, unless the soil and weather are unfavourable, they
should be planted as soon as possible after the appearance of this.
"Whether planted in the autumn or spring, they should not be
pruned severely the same season. The holes in which the trees are
planted must not be too deep, but they should be large enough to
admit of all the roots being spread out regularly. Previous to
putting the trees in position, place a few inches of well-pulverized
soil, or°maiden loam, in the bottom of the hole, and also cover the
roots with it before filling in with the ordinary soil. Tread the soil
firmly as the filling-in goes on, but avoid the rather common but
bad practice of puddling the roots.

Pkuning. — This part of the subject must now have attention,
but the reader will not be overburdened with details, for the fre-
quent stoppings of the young wood during the growing season,
which some writers recommend for pyramids and espaliers, are not
only unnecessary, but positively injurious. Severe stopping en-
courages the production of a mass of weakly wood which seldom
becomes well ripened, and most frequently a large portion has to
be removed at the winter pruning. To secure fine fruit, strong
wood that is as hard as whalebone must be produced; and the best
means for having well-ripened wood is to stop the youDg growth
once only during the growing season. In ordinary soils and situa-
tions, the early part of August is the best time_ for stopping, and
each shoot should be shortened back to within six or eight inches
of its base ; then, instead of a second growth being produced, the
lower buds will be matured, and eventually become fruit-spurs.
At the winter pruning, thin out the previous season's growth where
it has become too crowded, and shorten back the remaining shoots
two or three inches, according to their length ; but, at both summer
and winter pruning, due regard must be paid to preserving the sym-
metrical appearance of the trees.

Root-pruning. — Trees that have been planted several years,
and have become too luxuriant to produce good crops, must be
checked by root-pruning. Those that have been planted three or
four years may have the whole of their roots trimmed at one opera-
tion ; but others that have been in the same position a longer period
should have one-half only pruned, and the remaining part the fol-
lowing season, or they will suffer severely.

In some soils it is necessary to root-prune every second or
third vear, and in that case the trees will become so well furnished
with fibrous roots that all the roots can be trimmed at the same
time. First of all, describe a circle round the tree at a distance
ran^in" from twenty to thirty inches from the stem, according
to thelize of the tree. Then open out a trench outside the circle,
half, or all round, and chop off all the roots close to the side of the
trench, and work the spade well underneath the ball of soil to sever
all that strike down into the subsoil, as they are most frequently
the prime cause of unfruitfulness. Trees upon quince stocks will
not often require root-pruning, aud so long as those _ upon the pear
continue to produce good crops of well-flavoured fruit, they should
be left alcne.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 37

Soil. — Nearly all soils will grow good pears, excepting those of
a sandy character, and in these the fruit frequently cracks, and is
hard, and gritty, and deficient in juice. This part of the subject
need not detain us a moment, for it may be said that soils that will
grow good cabbages will grow good pears, and also that when they
become exhausted, the usual means of restoring their fertility must
be resorted to.

Gathering the Fruit. — A word in conclusion with reference
to gathering the crops. It cannot be known too widely that all
summer and early autumn pears should be gathered a week or ten
days before they attain full maturity, as they are so much finer in
flavour than when allowed to hang upon the trees until they drop
off. Late pears must not be gathered too early, or they will shrivel
and eat tough and dry. On the other hand, they must not be
exposed to frost, and should be safely stored in the fruit-room by
the end of the first week in October. They are generally ready for
gathering when the seed has become black, and the stalks part
readily from the spur. As a rule, the fruit of those that are not fit
for the table until February, and two followiug months, should be
left upon the trees until the last. It should be handled very care-
fully, and it keeps better when spread out singly.

Selection op Sorts for Pyramids and Espaliers. — As
many varieties remain in season for a considerable period, I shall,
to show when they are in perfection, and to avoid repetition, classify
them as follows : — Summer Pears, to comprise those ripe in July
and August ; Autumn, those ripe in September, October, and
November ; Winter, those ripe in December, January, and February ;
and Spring, those that do not wholly attain maturity until March
and April.

Summer Pears. — Ananas de Courtrai, Andre Desportes, Barbe
Nelis, Petit Muscat, Beurre de l'Assomption, Citron des Cannes,
Doyenne d'Ete, Jargonelle.

Autumn Pears. — Belle Julie, Autumn Bergamot, Camel's Ber-
gamot, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Capiaumont, Beurre Deil, Beurre
Coubalt, Beurre Navez, Bon Chretien (Williams's), Pitmaston,
Duchesse d'Angouleme, Duchesse d' Orleans, Hazel, Gansel's Seckle,
Swan's Egg.

Winter Pears. — Alexandre Bivort, Beurre Berckmans, Beurre
Easter, Beurre Sterckman, Broom Park, Comte de Flandres, Grand
Soleil, Josephine de Malines, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Knight's
Monarch, Winter Nelis, Prince of Wales, Huyshe's Victoria, Lan-
gelier's Victoria, Zephiriu Gregoire.

Spring Pears.— Basiner (De Jonghe), Bezi de Caen, Bezi Mai,
Colmar de Mars, Madame Millet (in warm situations), March
Bergamot.

38 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

A NEW USE EOB IYY.

BY A TOWN AHATETJB.

AM now occupying a house situated in a very smoky
locality, and, upon taking possession of it three years
since last Michaelmas, I was sorely puzzled as to
how I could give the garden a cheerful appearance.
Excepting a few half dead geraniums, and a few deci-
duous shrubs, such as lilacs and snowberry bushes, it was quite bare.
I referred to the back numbers of the Eloeal Woblb, and read
with much interest the various articles upon shrubs and trees that
thrive well in towns. But on making my purchases of the plants
recommended, I had to be content with dwarfs, whereas I wanted
something six or eight feet in height, that would produce an imme-
diate effect. Necessity is said to be the mother of invention, and
true enough it was in my case. Amongst other things recommended
for town gardens was the ivy, and knowing that when planted in
good soil it grows at a rapid rate, the thought struck me that a few
tall specimens could be extemporized with the strong-growing
varieties that would help to make up for the want of other tall
things. The idea was no sooner moulded into shape in mind than
it was carried out ; for an empty garden is bad enough in the
country, where we can look upon the green trees and fields, but to
be shut up in a town without a bit of greenery visible from the
window during the winter is to me a very great punishment.

Such a grand hit was made in the use of the ivy that I cannot
refrain from giving you a few particulars respecting the way in which
we went to work, although, of course, the plan adopted is not new
to you.

"We commenced operations in just the same manner as we should
have done had we been about to plant large hollies, or other ever-
greens eight feet in height, and selected the positions accordingly.
When the positions for planting the ivy were determined upon, a
circle of three feet in diameter was made at each, and the soil was
taken out to a depth of three feet. About twenty inches of the top
soil was of a very good quality, and was placed on one side of the
hole, but the other was light and stony, and after taking out the
stones, we spread it over the garden to make up the deficiency. We
procured a few loads of moderately good loam, and a cartload of
manure about three parts decayed. The soil was obtained from the
surface of some ground a few miles off, upon which building was going
on, and it answered admirably. We mixed enough loam with a mode-
rate quantity of manure to make up for the soil taken away, and
then filled the holes in again.

The next step was to procure the plants, and the supports to
which they were to be trained. We went to a nursery a few miles
out of town for tlie former, and as preparations had been made for
six groups, nine plants of the strongest-growing form of the common
English, and the same number of the Irish ivy, were purchased, so

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 39

that three could be planted in a group. The supports for the young
growth were purchased for a mere trifle at a wood-yard not far from
us, and stout pieces, with a few projecting arms towards the top,
were selected. They were branches of trees that were hardly
good enough for making up into rustic chairs, and averaged seven
inches in diameter at the base, and were from seven to nine feet in
length. The number of supports was the same as that of the plants.
They were firmly fixed in the ground, in the form of an angle, three
feet apart, then brought together at the top, and then secured in
that position by means of rather stout copper wire. They were of
course arranged so as to give the affair an air of rusticity, and towards
the bottom they were joined together by means of small branches
about an inch in thickness. Small larch poles, and a few laths, both
of which can be bought at any timber-yard, are well adapted for
this work, and are not so expeusive as the supports we bought.

As soon as they were properly fixed, the ivies were planted care-
fully, and fastened to the woodwork. A dry summer followed, and
each group had a thorough soaking of water, suck as you usually
advise, and the foliage dashed overhead with clear water at the
same time to keep it clean. Since then the plants have been able
to take care of themselves with respect to moisture at the roots, but
during the summer of the last two years a few pailfuls of water
have been thrown over the foliage after I come from the counting-
house of a Saturday afternoon.

All the plants, with but two exceptions, and they had the roots
injured in being taken up, have grown with remarkable vigour, and
four out of the six groups are a dense mass of foliage, and have a
most effective appearance, although not so beautiful as they will be
when they assume more of an arborescent character. It is very
certain that I could not have obtained such delightful masses of
evergreen foliage in such a short time for the same cost as those of
the ivy, and therefore have just cause to be proud of my work.
Much of the success is undoubtedly due to the careful preparation
of the soil, and the waterings the plants have had since they were
put out in their present quarters.

The Maple Leaf. — The representative plant and badge of Canada is said by
the " American Horticulturist" to be the Maple Leaf, as is told in the national song
of that dominion : —

" On merry England's far-famed land
May kind Heaven sweetly smile ;
God bless old Scotland evermore,

And Ireland's Emerald Isle ;
Then swell the song, both load and long,

Till rocks and forests quiver —
God save our Queen, and Heaven bless
The Maple leaf for ever ?

The Maple leaf, the Maple leaf,

The Maple leaf for ever !
God save our Queen, and Heaven bless
The Maple leaf for ever !"

40

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE GAKDEN PEA.

NE of the most important of all our green summer veget-
ables is the Pea, and the esteem in which it is held justi-
fies the utmost liberality and spirit in its cultivation.
The immense number of varieties affords evidence of the
popularity of this most wholesome and savoury escu-

" Macleans Best of All " Pea.

lent, and may suggest to the cultivator that some discrimination is
required in making a selection, when only a limited number of
varieties is intended to be grown. It cannot be said, however, that
the varieties of latest introduction are wholly superfluous, for in

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

41

respect of improvement in recent years, the pea has kept pace with
the potato, and a number of sorts that were held in high esteem
only from ten to twenty years ago — to go back no further — have
been quite superseded by later sorts of extraordinary fine quality.
A large proportion of the finest garden peas in cultivation were
raised by systematic cross breeding by the late Dr. Maclean, of

Easte's Kentisii Invicta.

Colchester, who devoted many years of his valuable life to this
interesting and useful labour. Another successful worker, who has
scarcely yet acquired fame in this department, is Mr. Thomas
Laxton, of Stamford. Many of the most celebrated sorts of peas

42 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

are simply improved strains of old varieties, secured by careful
selection on the part of the seed-grower, and oftentimes the strain
or stock so secured acquires a character which places it many
degrees in advance of the market type, or general average of the
parent. Hence, il is not only important to obtain the beat sorts of
peas, but the best strains or stocks of the best varieties.

The pea will thrive in any soil of average good quality, provided
it has good cultivation. The ground should be in ever}' case deeply
dug, and for all the second early and main crop sorts be liberally
mauured ; the best mode of employing the manure being to lay it at
the bottom of the trench. For the first early sorts it is advisable to
manure less liberally than for those that come into pod later in the
season, because a luxuriant growth is antagonistic to precocity of pro-
duction, and in the case of the first earlies, the object of the culti-
vator is to gather a dish at the earliest date possible, even if the
plants are less luxurious, and therefore less productive than they
would be if encouraged by heavy manuring. It should be under-
stood, however, that although manuring does somewhat delay the
season of production, it is scarcely possible to manure too liberally
for robust-growing sorts of line quality ; for although the first
gathering from them may be obtained less early by a week or so
than from the same sorts grown on poor ground, yet in the end
high cultivation will pay the best by the superior quality and greater
quantity of the produce, and the greater length of time during
which the plants will continue in bearing.

Peas are highly nutritive, and, when properly cooked, are as
wholesome as any vegetable in our gardens. Being richer in phos-
phates than most other table vegetables, they are particularly adapted
for invalids, and especially such as are deficient of nervous energy,
the mineral constituents of peas ministering directly to the nourish-
ment of the nervous system. The inorganic elements amount to
about three per cent, of the entire bulk in ripe peas, but in green
peas somewhat less. The principal inorganic elements are potash
and phosphoric acid, and therefore it is only in soils rich in potash-
salts and phosphates, that peas can be grown profitably, unless by
liberal and systematic manuring the deficiency of the soil in those
essential elements is compensated for. The importance of keeping
the soil rich in these ingredients will be understood when we say
that one bushel of shelled peas contains about the following quan-
tities of the several elements, namely, of —

Phosphoric acid 9 ounces

Lime 2 „

Magnesia 1^ „

Potash 10 „

The best manures for this crop, after farmyard dung, which is
undoubtedly the best, are guano, superphosphate, kainit, and gypsum,
which may be employed together in a mixture, and dug in when the
ground is prepared, at the rate of half a ton per acre. If one compre-
hensive manure is required, there is nothing better than phospho-
guano,which may be employed at the rate of five cwt. per acre if dug

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 43

into the ground, or at a fourth of that rate if sown in the drills with
the seed, which is the most economical method of employing it.

The earliest peas should be sown on ridges, and the main crops
in trenches. In other words, the first earlies require the warmest
and driest position that can be found for them, and the more luxu-
riant and later sorts require heavily manured land in positious
favourable to the retention of moisture. In every case close cropping
is to be avoided as an unprofitable procedure, hence the custom of
growing spinach, and other smallish subjects, between early peas is
commendable, as necessitating a sufficient space between the rows of
peas to insure a free circulation of air. The dwarfest sorts, how-
ever, admit of being sown in close order, but the space between the
rows must be increased in a direct ratio with the heights of the
varieties. Our custom has been to extend the pea crop over the
largest extent of ground possible, so as to have room between the
rows for plantation of cabbage, cauliflower, and other summer crops,
the tallest sorts of peas being, fifteen to twenty feet apart in the
rows, and the dwarfer sorts at least five feet. The practice commonly
prevailing of sowing tall peas so close that there is scarcely room
left for the gathering of the crop is simply a waste of labour, land,
and seed, for where the vines mix aud entangle the produce is
miserably small, and if the crop has to contend with drought it soon
becomes hopelessly mildewed.

In sowing the seed, drills two inches deep should be drawn with
the hoe guided by the line, and the seed sprinkled in the drills with
careful regularity. The early and wiry-habited sorts may be sown
rather thickly, but tall robust kinds should be fully two inches
apart. In districts favourable to early production, the first early
sorts are sown in November and December, but in places where the
soil is deep and damp, and the climate unfavourable, it is sheer
waste of labour to sow until the middle of February at the earliest,
aud, generally speaking, the middle of March is as early as the seed
can be sown advantageously. The earlier the better everywhere, of
course, but a sowing of peas made a week too soon will scarcely pay
for the ground it covers, hence in cold districts experienced culti-
vators wait for favourable weather, without respect to the almanac,
for the good reason that a late sowing that has had no check will in
the end overtake and surpass in productiveness earlier sowings that
have been two or three times pinched by frost, or dessicated by the
east winds. Sowings of the second early and main crop sorts
should be made from the middle of March to the end of May,
according to requirements, and if these are sown in trenches prepared
as for celery, at a distance of about fifteen feet apart, they will
produce double the crop, aud last double the time in bearing than
the same sorts would if sown upon the level in a close piece with
only enough space between for gathering.

It is of the utmost importance to put stakes or rissels to peas
very soon after they come through the ground, for from the first
moment they require support they should have it. Even the dwarfest
sorts will give a better yield if assisted with suitable sticks, or a
couple of lengths of strong twine run along on each side to prevent

44 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

them falling over. There is nothing gained by staking peas
insufficiently, nor indeed by any " skimping" in any part of the
routine culture of this crop. Therefore, if suitable stakes cannot
be obtained, rissels or wire hurdles should be purchased, and as
these will last a lifetime if taken care of, one outlay is sufficient, and
that need not be of an extravagant nature.

For all ordinary purposes, about half-a-dozen sorts of peas are
enough for any garden. But those who make an amusement of
vegetable culture may grow fifty sorts of nearly equal value, respect-
ing which it would be very hard to say if any one amongst them is
better or worse than the rest. We may, however, indulge a little
fancy in this matter, and prefer a score of sorts to half-a-dozen,
because of the immense interest attaching to this vegetable, and the
variety of qualities to be found in the best sorts we have. We will
now attempt a few selections to suit various tastes and require-
ments.

Six Sorts foe Succession. — Sutton's Ringleader, 3 feet high :
Advancer, 3 feet : Maclean's Wonderful, 3 feet : Yeitch's Perfection
(or Stuart and Mien's Prince, which is a shade better, but very
scarce), 3 feet : Ne plus ultra, 6 feet : British Queen, 6 feet.

Twelve Sorts for Succession. — Sutton's Ringleader, 3 feet :
Sutton's Early Champion, 3 feet : Laxton's Supreme, 5 feet :
Maclean's Wonderful, 3 feet: Princess Royal, 3 feet: Champion of
England, 5 feet : Yorkshire Hero, 2\ feet : Paradise Marrow, 5 feet :
Veiich's Perfection, 3 feet : Premier, 4 feet: British Queen, Gleet:
Ne plus ultra, 6 feet.

Twelve Varieties, selected eor Quality only. — Laxton's
Alpha, 3 feet : Advancer, 3 feet : Laxton's Quality, 4 feet : Sutton's
Invincible Green Marrow, 3 feet : Huntingdonian, 4 feet : Fortyfold,
4 feet : Maclean's Best of All, 3 feet : Lord Palmerston, 2>\ feet :
Jersey Hero, 3 feet : Knight's Dwarf Green Marrow, 3 feet : British
Queen, 6 feet : Queen of the Marroivs, 6 feet.

Six good Dwarf Kinds suitable to grow without Stakes.
— Paste's Kentish Lnvicta, 2 feet : Bishop's Long Podded, 2 feet :
Sutton's Tom Thumb, 1 foot : Maclean's Little Gem, 1 foot (this is
the best to grow in pots to fruit in the cold frame or forcing house) :
Nutting's No. 1, 2 feet: Dwarf Waterloo, 1£ feet: Peabodg, 1^ feet.

It was a common article of belief with the gardeners of the last
generation, that to obtain good peas "you must go up a ladder to
gather them." The march of improvement has, however, altered
the case, and we may now have peas of the finest quality from sorts
that rise only three to four feet. In our selection above given of
sorts selected for quality, there are only two tall sorts, and they
may be very well dispensed with by those who are so circumstanced
as not to be able to grow them properly. S. H.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 45

BEDDEKS AND BEDDING.

BY A HEAD GAEDENEB.

PROPAGATING BEDDING-PLANTS.

[EABLY all the readers of the Eloral- "World being
more or less interested in bedding-plants, I intend,
with your permission, to offer a few practical remarks
on their propagation in spring, and then enumerate a
few of the best in the several classes. That the notes
will be of considerable value to those who have not had much prac-
tical experience in plant-propagation, I have no doubt, because the
furnishing of such a large flower-garden as the one under my charge
has rendered it necessary that I should pay much attention to
bedding-plants of all classes. As you know, we give nearly all the
plants sent out every year a thorough trial, and therefore I am able
to speak with confidence respecting the value of the new, as well as
of the old and established kinds.

Nearly all soft-wooded plants, such as verbenas, lobelias, and
petunias, can be struck with greater facility in the spring than in
the autumn, provided a due amount of care is exercised in their
preparation ; but it is necessary to state that they will not bear rougb
usage with impunity at this season of the year. Cuttings of soft
shoots strike more freely than those that have become hardened ;
therefore, it is necessary to place the stock plants in a brisk growing
temperature, from three to four weeks before the work of propaga-
tion is commenced. They should be placed near the glass, to pre-
vent the possibility of the young growth being drawn up weakly ;
and if, at the same time, the pots could be placed upon a genial
bottom-heat, they will start into growth much quicker. We gene-
rally fill one of our pits, which has a four-inch pipe round it, with
leaves that were collected the previous autumn, and keep the tem-
perature at, or about, 65°. The pots are stood upon the leaves, and
the genial heat which arises from them is enough to warm the soil
sufficiently to promote a vigorous root-action previous to the growth
of the top. Many amateurs do not appreciate the leaves which fall
from the trees in the autumn according to their value, and have
them consigned to the rubbish-heap, instead of carefully storing
them away for spring use. They are not only useful for the purpose
here indicated, but they are exceedingly valuable for mixing with
stable manure in making up hot-beds for cucumbers, melons, and
propagating purposes. A mixture of leaves and manure is much
better than manure alone, as the heat is given off in a more gradual
manner, and consequently the beds do not become exhausted so
soon.

Immediately the stock plants are placed in a growing tempera-
ture, as advised above, preparations must at once be commenced for
providing a genial hotbed for their reception. A bed of leaves and
manure, after it has become well sweetened, is decidedly preferable,
as it can be employed for so many purposes, the most important

46 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE

being raising seeds of early vegetables, such as cauliflowers, cabbages,
and lettuces, and also for growing on early melon and cucumber-
plants before the bouses or pits in whicb they are to be grown are
in readiness for them. In the preparation of the fermenting mate-
rials, care must be taken, by frequent turnings, to insure their
being thoroughly sweetened before they are made up into a bed ;
and to prevent tbe possibility of the cuttings suffering from the
noxious gases which arise from improperly prepared stable manure,
they should not be put into the frame until a week after it has been
put upon the bed. A little air should also be left on night and day,
and, in covering with mats at night, the ends of the mats must not
hang low enough down the sides to draw the steam arising from the
things outside into the frame. Where fermenting materials are
scarce, a bed of faggots or brushwood, three feet in thickness, and a
few inches larger each way than the frame, may be made, and the
temperature raised to the necessary degree by means of linings of
warm fermenting materials put round the outside. In either case,
the surface of the bed inside should be covered with a thin layer of
turf and a few inches of ashes, in which to partly plunge the pots.

"Wherever there is a pine or plant stove or a vinery at work,
and a portion of the pipes situate so that plants placed upon them
may receive a moderate amount of light, the whole stock of bedding
plants may be struck without the aid of an ordinary hotbed at all.
Thousands of cuttings are struck here annually in the following
manner: — We have several boxes three feet in length, two in width,
and twelve inches in depth ; the bottoms are constructed of stout
perforated zinc, with three iron bands, an inch in breadth and an
eighth of an inch in thickness, to support the weight of the pots.
The boxes are placed upon the hot-water pipes of one of the houses
at work, at a point where they are near the glass, and six inches of
tan placed in the bottom in which to plunge the pots. Cocoanut-
fibre refuse or sand would also answer very well. The heat com-
municated by the pipes is ample, and the bother, dirt, and anxiety
attendant on a hotbed is entirely dispensed with.

In a garden where the whole glass it contains is comprised in a
greenhouse or conservatory, the plan described in the foregoing
paragraph cannot be carried out, because the heat from the pipes
will not be constant. There are, however, several contrivances for
propagating purposes, which can be heated with lamps. I have not
had much experience with the propagating cases heated in this
manner, but during last spring and summer I saw one of the cases
manufactured by Messrs. Barr and Sugden, 12, King Street, Covent
Garden, at work several times, and it appeared to answer admirably,
and my friend states that he is thoroughly satisfied. They are
effectively and cheaply heated, and so cleanly, that for lady gardeners
they must be pronounced a great boon. Figures and descriptions
of two of the cases will be found at page 253 of last year's volume,
to which those in want of a heated case can refer.

The soil used for filling the cutting pots should be light and
sandy. We generally employ the old soil from the potting bench
for this purpose ; we first sift it, and then mix with it a fourth part

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 47

of silver sand. Fresh loam will require rather more sand. Five-
inch, pots are the most convenient size, and we generally employ
them, and put in the cuttings at the rate of twenty to each. In
preparing the pots, put three inches of crocks in the bottom, and
then fill in firmly with the prepared soil to within half an inch of
the rim. Then finish off by putting sufficient sand on the top to
bring it level with the rim. The sand should be moderately moist
when used, to enable the operator to make it thoroughly firm. The
sand should then be sprinkled, and everything will be in readiness
for the cuttings.

In taking off the cuttings, select the points of the healthiest
shoots, and do not expose them to the atmosphere any longer than
possible. Cuttings of two joints are preferable, although the shoots
of verbenas, petunias, and several other subjects, cut up into single
joints only, will strike freely in the spring. In inserting the
cuttings, make a hole of moderate size, then drop in the cutting, and
fix it firmly by thrusting the dibble close down by the side of the
stem, but without touching it. The cuttings should be prepared,
and inserted in the pots in which the propagating frame is placed ;
or where an ordinary hotbed is employed, in a close and rather warm
house or room. As each pot is filled, place it in the frame, water
liberally, and shut down the glass, and keep it quite close for a day
or so.

The after management comprises air-giving and watering, and
upon the manner in which the air is regulated and the water applied
depends much of the success. It is, however, impossible to lay down
any definite rules upon these matters. As a rule, as much air may
be admitted into the frames as the cuttings can bear without the
leaves flagging ; for if the atmosphere is too much confined, a con-
siderable proportion will damp off. Again, with respect to watering,
it may be said that extremes must be avoided, because too much or
too little moisture is equally injurious. A light sprinkle overhead
will be required once a day, and in bright weather it may be
repeated. The most important matter in watering is to leave off
the covers until the leaves have become rather dry. Shade from the
sun by means of thin canvas or tiffany, as a few hours' sun will soon
make an end to a batch of cuttings. Harden off as soon as rooted,
and either transfer to single pots or a bed of soil made up in a frame
without delay. It ruins bedding plants to keep them for any length
of time in a high temperature.

Bedding geraniums of all kinds can be struck without the aid of
bottom-heat ; indeed, they do much better when the cutting pots
are placed on a warm sunny shelf in a warm greenhouse.

The selections of the most suitable kinds must be deferred until
next month.

Large Peaks ix Aistralia. — As an instance of the enormous size to which fruit
may be grown in the vicinity of Melbourne, may be mentioned some Brobdingnagian
Pears, which were on view the other day at a seedsman's. They numbered half-a-
dozen, the total weight being 161b. 11 oz. The largest weighed 31b. 3^ oz., and
the smallest 2 lb. 10a oz. — Overland Telegraph.

48

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

A GAT WINDOW GAKDEN.

|HE cultivation of a few plants on the -window-sill is
certainly one of the most interesting and pleasurable
occupations in which those having no conservatory nor
other convenience for plant-growing can engage. The
embellishment of the window-sill is not, however, a
matter of interest to those only who have no other means of enjoy-
ing a few flowers of their own growing, because few adornments
enhance the appearance of a dwelling-house more than flower boxes
at the principal windows. By well-directed efforts, it is surprising
what a large number of flowering plants can be grown in that way,
and how easy, comparatively speaking, the floral decoration of the
windows becomes.

The most important step to take in connection with plant-
growing outside the window is to eschew pots altogether, and to
employ well-made boxes instead. It is a matter of extreme diffi-
culty, after the beginning of June, to keep pot-plants in health.
The fierce heat of the sun, playing upon the sides of the pots, scorches
the roots of the plants, consequently all healthy growth is checked,
and they soon present a languishing appearance. Even if the roots

Fig. 1. — Rustic Wood Box.

were not injured by heat, they would be by drought, because it
would be practically impossible to keep the soil moist enough to
maintain a healthy growth. These remarks respecting plants in
pots refer, of course, to those only which are placed upon the sill,
without the sides of the pots being protected ; because, when the
windows are furnished with boxes, plants in pots can be employed
according to the means and wishes of each cultivator, as the boxes
can be loosely filled with cocoanut-fibre refuse, 'and the pots plunged

Fig. 2.— Rustic Zinc Box.

to their full depth. The roots and soil will then, of course, be
beyond the injurious influences of the heat from the sun. Indeed,
to carry out window-gardening in the most perfect manner possible,
the whole of the plants should be grown in pots, to admit of frequent
change; but, as that system would require more skill and time than

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

49

the majority of my readers would be able to devote to it, my remarks
will be confined almost exclusively to the cultivation of the plants
from first to last in the boxes.

The form and pattern of the boxes must in a great measure be
decided by the style of architecture of the house for which they are
intended, and the taste and means of the occupier. The accom-
panying designs, which are from the stock of Messrs. Dick Ead-
clyffe, and Co., 129, High Holborn,W.C, who devote much attention
to window-boxes and other horticultural elegancies, illustrate some
of the very best forms that could be devised. Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are

Fig. 3.— Rustic Wood Box.

eminently adapted for cottage and small villa residences, whilst for
the more aristocratic villa and the mansion, Figs. 4 and 5 will be
more acceptable. Fig. 3 is, perhaps, the prettiest of the rustic
designs ; and of the other two, Fig. 4 is the most useful, and the
pattern of the tiles with which this kind of box is faced is almost
illimitable. Fig. 5 is remarkably beautiful, but, of necessity, is too
expensive to admit of its employment elsewhere than at the dining
and drawing-room windows, excepting in the houses of the most
wealthy. As an act of justice to the firm referred to, it is necessary
to say that the designs here figured comprise only a portion of the
stock, and that in selecting boxes of No. 4 pattern, a personal inspec-
tion will be most satisfactory, as tastes differ so much. They should

Fig. 4.— Tile Box.

fit the window nicely, but they must be deep and broad enough to
hold a considerable quantity of soil, or the plants in them will be
no better off than if they were grown in pots. Each box should be
wide enough to comfortably hold a double row of plants, and if the
sill is narrow, it may be allowed to project two or three inches, as a
neat bracket on each side, will hold it firm. Means must be pro-
vided for the ready escape of all superfluous water, by placing in the
bottom a layer of rather small crocks, and then covering them with
a layer of rough material, to prevent the fine soil choking them up.
A compost consisting of two parts turfy loam and one part decayed
manure or leaf-mould, will suit all the plants — with which they
should be filled throughout the year.

VOL. VI. — NO. II. 4

50

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Having thus far disposed of the preparation of the boxes, we
will turn our attention to the most useful plants for rendering them
bright and cheerful all the year round. There is no lack of good
things suitable for the purpose, but I shall name a few only of the
most useful, and such as are within the reach of all classes. For
spring decoration a mixture of Arabis alpina, Alyssum saxatile,
Aubrieiia Campbelll, A. deltoidea grandijlora, Lberis sempervivens, Phloz
Nelsoni, Saponaria calabrica, and Wallflowers, of sorts, comprising
both double and single varieties ; but the latter are the most useful,
as they can be most readily raised from seed. The above-mentioned
subjects should be regularly intermixed, and a row of Alyssum saxa-
tile variegatum, Arabis lucida variegata, and the variegated Daisy,
Bellis perennis aucuboejolia, planted in front, separately or mixed. A
row of yellow Narcissus should then be planted at the back next a
row of red Hyacinths ; and in front, alternately with the variegated
plants, a row of Squills. The best of the sorts are, considering
their cheapness and effectiveness, Narcissus Lord Canning, Hyacinth
Amy, and Scilla prcecox. The pretty little Narcissus bulbocodium is
also line for front rows. The furniture of the boxes may consist

Fie. 5. — The Deawing-eoom Box.

entirely of bulbous plants, but it is much better to fill them with
other things, and then plant the bulbs amongst them.

For summer decoration, boxes in shady positions should be filled
with hardy Ferns, and a few Fuchsias and Blue Lobelias intermixed.
Those occupying sunny aspects should be chiefly filled with varie-
gated and zonal Pelargoniums, and a few Lobelias, Fuchsias, Mig-
nonette, Candytufts, Gallardias, Centaureas, and Heliotropes. The
Pelargoniums, must, however, be planted the most extensively, as
they grow freely and flower very profusely under the most adverse
conditions, provided they have the advantage of an abundance of
sunshine. The other subjects must be introduced sparingly, because
many of them will present a shabby appearance by the middle of
the summer, if they suffer much from drought.

All the variegated and zonal Pelargoniums are more or less valua-
ble for filling window- boxes ; but in selecting twenty of the older
sorts that can be purchased cheap, I should prefer, of the double-
flowering varieties, Charles Olym, Madame Michel Buckner, Marie Le-
moine, and Wilhelm Pjitzer. Single-flowering : Blue Bell, Gloire de

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 51

Corbeny, Louis VeuiUot, Lucius, Madlle. Nillson, Rose Bendatler,
Richard Headly, Thomas Moore, The Bride, White Wonder. Bronze
zonals : JE. G. Henderson, Beauty of Biverdale. Gold zonal: Louisa
Smith. Silver zonal : Italia Unita. White variegated : Princess
Alexandra. Golden-leaved : Crimson Banner. For drooping over
the front of the box, variegated and other ivy-leaved Pelargoniums :
Maurandya Barclay ana, Lophospermum Hendersoni, and Thunbergia
aurantiaca — all of which, excepting the Pelargoniums, can be raised
from seed.

By a judicious selection of hardy evergreens, the boxes may be
rendered bright and cheerful throughout the winter. The most
suitable for general purposes are green and variegated Aucubas, Box,
Buonymus, Golden Arbor-vitce, Laurestinus, Cupressus Lawsoni, with
variegated and green-leaved small-growing Ivies for trailing over the
sides, and a carpet of the beautiful Golden-tipped Stonecrop. Boxes
filled with hardy evergreens, as here advised, need not be disturbed
until they are filled with the summer occupants, for, by the intro-
duction of a few Crocuses, Snoivdrops, Scillas, Hyacinths, Narcissus,
and Tulips there will be no lack of colour throughout the spring.

It only now remains to be said, that the plants, especially during
the summer, must not be allowed to suffer from the want of water,
and that the foliage must be kept perfectly free from dust. The
evening is the best time for watering and cleansing the foliage.

THE BEGINNER IN GRAPE- GEO WING.— No. II.

BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

MANAGEMENT OE YOUNG YINES IN POTS.

HIS will be a short chapter, because all that we have to
do under this heading is to consider the few details con-
nected with the management of the young vines during
the first season. We concluded last month with a note
urging the importance of not allowing them to become
pot-bound ; but, on the other hand, a caution against over-potting
appears necessary. Of the two evils, shifting them before they are
well rooted is certainly the worst. Whether the stock requires shift-
ing can soon be determined by turning one of the vines out of the
pot. If the roots exist in sufficient numbers round the outside of
the ball of soil to hold it together, shift without delay ; otherwise
allow them to remain in the pots until they are sufficiently rooted.
Erequent repottings are undesirable, and as a rule those intended for
fruiting in pots the following season will require three shifts, but for
those required for planting out in the vinery border, either in the
autumn or following spring, or for cutting down with the intention
of their being fruited in pots the second year after the eyes are
struck, two shifts will be ample. In any case put them first into

52 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

six-inch pots, and from that size into the nine-inch size. At the
third shift, when required, put them into pots two or three sizes
larger.

Inside borders may be planted in June with vines obtained from
eyes struck the previous March, and the stock set apart for that pur-
pose should, if convenient, be put from the small pots into shallow
boxes, and then at planting time the sides can be knocked away,
and the bottom removed without disturbing the roots. It is better
to plant vineries in June with vines struck the previous spring than
to wait until the following March, to admit of its being planted with
canes twelve months older. But where the vines are too hard, and
the house and border in readiness for their reception, I should
strongly recommend its being planted some time during March or
April with one-year-old vines that were cut close down to the ground,
and have when planted about twelve or eighteen inches of new
growth. These will start away stronger, and also have two months
more of the best part of the growing season in which to make their
growth than younger ones planted in June. Therefore, the rods will
be much stronger and better matured at the end of the season.

In preparing a compost for vines when in pots, whether they are
to be fruited in them or not, the cultivator should encourage as much
as possible the production of short fibrous roots. Hence hot-bed or
other manure of a similar character must be used in a sparing man-
ner, and where available bone-dust or crushed bones employed
instead. Partly decomposed horse-droppings are valuable for ^this
purpose, when bones cannot be afforded, as they assist in keeping the
compost light and open, whilst at the same time they furnish food
for the vines. To render everything as clear as possible, it is neces-
sary to say that the most suitable compost is prepared by well incor-
porating together four parts turfy loam, one part manure, one part
brick-rubbish, and about a third of a part of bone-dust. The pots
will require draining effectually, but no more crocks than are abso-
lutely necessary must be employed. At the last shifting I should
recommend the use of inch bones instead of crocks, especially if the
vines are to be fruited in the pots.

Plunging the pots in a brisk hot-bed after the eyes are struck is
not only unnecessary, but positively injurious, and after the first
shift the pots should be stood upon a hard surface. "When the vines
are grown with the assistance of bottom-heat, the wood is generally
soft and pithy, 'and they are usually furnished with thick fleshy
" goose-quill " roots, which, if subjected to bad treatment during the
winter, will perish. Consequently if they are fruited the following
season a large portion of many of the branches will be ruined
through the berries shanking. This so-called disease is usually attri-
buted to too much atmospheric humidity ; rightly in some instances,
but generally it may be ascribed to defective root-action.

Vines in their first, as in all subsequent stages of growth, should
not be crowded closely together, but be placed far enough apart to
admit of the stems being fully exposed to the light. By closely
following the instructions here given, and during the summer main-
taining a free current of air through the house in which they are

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 53

grown, there will be no difficulty whatever in producing well-ripened
and short-jointed canes. By the end of August or early in Septem-
ber the canes will, if they have been properly managed, be full
grown, and should be taken to the open air for a month or sis weeks
to insure their being properly ripened. The canes should be securely
fastened to a wall or fence having a south aspect, and during heavy
rains some means must be adopted to prevent the soil becoming
saturated. The soil, however, must not be kept dust dry duriug the
season of rest, or many of the roots will perisb, and the vines suffer
immensely. The very excellent remarks made by " A Kentish
Gardener " upon this subject in last month's number, renders it un-
necessary for me to say another word in reference to the danger of
drying^the roots in winter.

Next month vineries, vine-borders, and planting must engage our
attention, but before quitting the subject, for the present, it will be
worth while to add that although the vines should be kept cool when
at rest, they must not be exposed to severe frost.

THE NIGHT-SCENTED STOCK.

EXCEPTING- by reputation, the Night-scented Stocks,
Mathiolct bicornis and M. tricuspidata, are only known
to a few, whereas they should have a place assigned
them in every garden where sweet-scented flowers are
appreciated. No piant in cultivation, much less hardy
annuals, can surpass, and few equal, the delicacy and richness of the
perfume emitted from their flowers. The entire plant, of both
varieties, with us, usually attains a height of about twelve inches ;
the upper half consisting of a branchiug spike of pale lilac, and in the
case of M. bicornis, it must be confessed, rather insignificant flowers.
The latter are closed during the day, and are then nearly scentless,
but from early in the evening to the following morning the odour
exhaled from them is so powerful, that the presence of the plants
can be detected when many yards from them. M. tricuspidata is an
old variety of much value, and has been recently re-introduced. In
some respects it is superior to M. bicornis ; the flowers are larger,
rather deeper in colour, and remain expanded during the day as well
as the night. The perfume of the flowers of this variety during the
day was said to be equal to that exhaled from them in the evening,
but that is an exaggeration, as it is far inferior, although very
delightful.

We sow a pinch of seed in March, here and there, in the shrub-
bery borders, where the plants will be partially screened from
observation by those of greater stature. Ttiey are thinned out in
the same way as other annuals, and then left to take care of them-
selves. The fragrance which arises in the evening from the plants
on all sides is most lovely, and produces an indescribable effect upon
those of our friends, when seated at the open window of the drawing-
room, who have not hitherto been personally acquainted with either

54 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of these plants. They fancy we have a bank of mignonette, violets,
and roses hidden away somewhere behind the shrubs, and will hardly
believe, the next morning, when we show them the plants, that such
overpowering fragrance can be exhaled by such insignificant objects.
We save our own seed, but I see, by the trade-lists, that a sufficient
supply of each of the varieties can now be obtained for sixpence.

Hakmet Tettekell.

CENTATJREAS AND HOW TO PROPAGATE THEM.

BY JOHN WALSH.

1REAT popularity has been obtained by the Centurea,
since plants remarkable for their rich colours and the

ornamental character of their leaves, have been gene-
rally employed in the embellishment of the flower
garden. It well deserves the high esteem in which it
is held, for without doubt it is the most valuable of all plants, with
silvery or grey foliage. These remarks are not penned with the
intention of passing an eulogy on its merits, because that is not
required, but my object is to assist amateurs in raising a stock with
the least possible amount of trouble. Most professional gardeners
are now well acquainted with the best steps to take in their propa-
gation, but I now and then meet with some who are as yet firm
believers that they are most difficult to increase, whereas in reality
they can be propagated with the greatest ease. I shall not therefore
apologize for communicating these notes to a work which is so
extensively read by all classes of horticulturists.

Centaureas can be propagated by means of cuttings struck in
the spring or autumn, and from seed. Each mode has its advantages
and disadvantages ; but for these not well up in the mysteries of
striking cuttings, seed affords the readiest means of raising a stock.
It must also be resorted to where there are no old plants to supply
cuttings. Seed of all the varieties is plentiful in the trade, and
may be obtained from any respectable house. Sown at once in heat,
and the seedlings pushed on in a brisk temperature until the middle
of April, plants suitable for edging purposes may be secured by the
time they are required for putting out in the flower-garden. Sow-
ing in autumn is the best period for people who have not the com-
mand thus early, as the plants can be raised in the open, or in a
cold frame or greenhouse, and wintered in either of these structures.
They will also be considerably larger by planting time. All the
sorts will bear a considerable amount of frost without injury, when
raised in the autumn, and they can be wintered in a cold frame with
a mat thrown over the glass to break the frost. Nothing special is
required in sowing the seed, and in the management of the seedlings,
therefore it would be a waste of space to allude to it further.

Plenty of home-grown seed for autumn growing may be obtained
by allowing the plants taken up from the beds last autumn to bloom,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 55

which they will do if not stopped, and as soon as the flowers begin
to expand, placing them in an airy and dry position.

It is rather more difficult to strike cuttings than to raise seed-
lings, but it is easier than many people imagine, especially if they
are struck in the spring. Supposing the spring is taken advantage
of for the work, it will be necessary, first of all, to place the stock
plants in a temperature of 653 or 70° to start them into growth.
If flower-buds make their appearance, let them rise above the
foliage, and then nip them off. Some writers recommend nipping
out the growing point before starting the plants, but the advice is
as bad as bad can be, because in the majority of cases the act will
be followed by the decay of the main stem. The advice is given
under the supposition that by stopping the main shoots, the produc-
tion of side-shoots will be encouraged, whereas it does nothing of
the kind. Here the ignorance of the writers is made manifest, for
nothing short of a waut of knowledge of the habit of the centaureas
would induce any one to advise their being treated in the same way
as verbenas and other plants of a similar character. If the stock
plants are not over- watered, they will produce a plentiful supply of
cuttings without stopping. Take off the cuttings with a very small
heel, and insert them thickly in pans, or pots, filled with sandy soil
and surfaced with sand. Place the cuttings in a temperature of 70°,
and where they will not be exposed to draughts or subject to much
atmospheric humidity. Here they can be left, so far as my remarks
are concerned, for they will soon strike, and it would be absurd for
me to say that they should be potted off, or to describe details that
must be well known to those who have had the slightest experience
in plant-growing.

Striking cuttings in the autumn is not attended with such a
degree of certainty as the same work performed at the period
advised in the preceding paragraph, but it can be done with a little
skill. In taking the cuttings select those with about half an
inch of firm wood at the base, and slip them off without injuring
the main stem. Then remove a few of the lower leaves, prepare the
base smooth, and put them round the sides of five-inch pots, at the
rate of four to each pot. Also put three small pieces of stick round
the outside and connect them together with a piece of matting, to
hold the leaves up and keep them in their place. A cold frame, and
a moderate amount of water and air will accomplish the rest.

For centres of beds Centaurea gymnocarpa is most suitable, as
it naturally grows taller than the others ; for second rows C. ragusina
should be selected; and for edging purposes preference must be
given to C. arc/entea plumosa, and C. rar/usina comjyacta.

C. Glementei, a new variety raised in the south of France, and
now in course of distribution in this country, in said to be a most
desirable acquisition. It resembles in general character C. ragusina,
but is much finer in all its proportions, the leaves are deeply cut and
in lobes, and these again elegantly fringed. The leaves are also
densely white when young, and maintain their silvery appearance
when fully developed. As seed can be obtained at a shilling per
packet, it is within the reach of all classes.

56

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

LOOKER'S GARDEN FRAME AND GROUND VINERY.

Y the introduction of the " Acme Garden Frame and
Ground Vinery,'' Mr. Looker, of Kingston, has conferred
a great boon upon all amateur horticulturalists, for of
all the many forms of portable plant protectors it
must be pronounced one of the very best. They are
light in appearance, very roomy, and, with a slight exception, con-

LOOEEE 8 GAKDEN FBAME.

structed of imperishable materials. The uses to which these frames
may be put must be so apparent that it is almost needless to refer
to them. Suffice to say that they may be employed in the kitchen
garden for the protection of lettuce and cauliflower plants for plant-
ing in spring ; lettuce, endive, and other salading plants, that are
full-grown during the winter ; raising seeds ; accelerating the ripen-
ing of strawberries ; and for many other purposes of equal import-
ance. In the flower-garden, they will be especially valuable for
protecting violets, pansies, pentstemons, and many Alpine plants
that require protection from very severe weather, and from too much
moisture. They may also be profitably employed for propagating
and raising seeds of hardy and other flowering plants during the
summer months, and in hardening off* bedding plants in the spring.
Grapes and summer cucumbers can also be grown most success-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 57

fully in them. As will be seen by our illustration, the lower edge
of the glass rests upon earthenware chairs, or tiles, and at the top,
upon a light, open wooden ridge. The ridge is supported by angle
pieces securely fixed on the inside of the tiles, at intervals of about
every four feet. The opening along the ridge is closed with earthenware
caps, which cap over the glass and prevent drip. These, when re-
quired for ventilation, can be taken off, as shown in the illustration.
The glass can be taken off when required to admit of the plants
being attended to with the utmost facility. For prices, which are
very low, and other particulars, application must be made to Mr. B.
Looker, Norbiton Potteries, Kingston-on-Thames.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

| HE Garden Oracle, which has now reached its thir-
teenth year, has again made its appearance ; and, as
usual, every phase of horticultural and floricultural
progress is duly recorded. The list of New Plants is as
complete as possible, but the descriptions are shorter
than usual — a change which will, no doubt, be much appreciated,
because it occupies less space, and, therefore, room for more useful
matters is afforded. The descriptions are ample for all practical
purposes ; and, as references are given to the works in which they
are figured and fully described, nothing further is required. The
list of New Flowers, in which about five hundred varieties are
described, which will chiefly be sent out during the current year, is
sufficient evidence that there is no lack of enterprise amongst florists
in this country, and that floriculture is not in the languishing con-
dition many would fain have us believe. The new flowers, such as
Roses, Grladioli, Phloxes, etc., that we were wont to receive from
Erance, are, of course, absent ; for our brethren on the other side of
the Channel have had duties too stern and sacred to perform to
admit of their devoting much time and attention to the peaceful
arts. The list of New Eruits comprises all the best and most dis-
tinct novelties of the past year, and possesses much to interest
pomologists and others anxious to furnish their gardens with the
best of everything ; especially as most of the descriptions are ac-
companied with characteristic illustrations. All the IN ew Vegetables
and Inventions are, as a matter of course, described, and the most
important figured. The new inventions form a very important
feature of this year's issue, occupying no lesa than ten pages. The
monthly lists are this year devoted to pictorial and hardy-flowering
trees and shrubs. The lists comprise selections of trees remark-
able for beautiful foliage in summer ; beautiful foliage in autumn ;
the embellishment of lawns, promenades, water-scenes, and boun-
dary-belts ; coniferous trees for collections ; evergreens for town-
gardens ; flowering shrubs ; shrubs for growing under trees ; in
fact, all the most valuable shrubs and trees for planting pleasure-
grounds and parks are enumerated, and their proper use indicated.

58 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Another new feature consists of an essay " On the Ordering and
Management of Small Gardens," which, there can be no doubt,
will be of immense service to amateurs and others. The selections
of fruits, flowers, and vegetables are as full and accurate as hereto-
fore ; and upwards of twenty of the most useful and distinct of the
latter are illustrated.

Tbe weather, since my last notes were written, has occupied
much of our attention, although, up to the present time, the winter
has not been characterized by any unusual phenomena. In the
neighbourhood of London, thirty degrees of frost were several times
registered, whilst twenty degrees of frost was quite common in all
parts of the country. In Yorkshire and Norfolk, and many other
counties, correspondents state that upon one or two occasions the
temperature fell several degrees below the zero of Fahrenheit. In
low-lying and damp situations, the kitchen garden crops have
suffered severely ; but so far as I have been able to ascertain by
observation, and from the reports of correspondents, trees and shrubs
do not appear to have received much, if any damage. This is, no
doubt, owing to the well ripened condition of the wood when the
frost caught it. The exact amount of injury which trees and shrubs
have received, cannot as yet be correctly ascertained, but there is no
cause to fear that much harm has been done.

The Persian Cyclamen is now justly appreciated in the neigh-
bourhood of the metropolis, but few provincial horticulturists who
have not been fortunate enough to see the magnificent collections
exhibited at the spring exhibitions of the two Royal Societies in
London, by Mr. James and Mr. Wiggins, of Isleworth, Mr. Edmonds,
of Hayes Common, and Mr. Stevens, of Ealing, have an adequate
idea of the perfection to which they can be grown. The other day,
I had the good fortune to see the collection under the charge of Mr.
James, in tbe gardens of W. E. Watson, Esq., Redlees, Isleworth.
The bulk of the plants were not fully out, but they were in the
most luxuriant health, and bristling with flower-buds. I have had
the opportunity of seeing the collection every season for several
years past, and I feel bound to say that no word painting will con-
vey anything like an adequate idea of the appearance of the house
when the plants are at their best. Many of them have from two to
three hundred flowers expanded at one time. The flowers are also
of the most perfect form, and the colours range from the purest
white to the deepest rose and carmine. Tbe flowers are so vastly
superior to the narrow petalled flowers of the varieties usually grown,
that one can hardly believe them to be the same. The system of
culture, adopted by Mr. James, is exceedingly simple. The seed is
sown directly it is gathered, the young plants grown on briskly the
first year without being dried off, and the old plants only allowed to
rest for about a month in the summer. The compost used is mode-
rately rich and open, and a liberal quantity of sand is added, to
admit of the free development of the roots. We frequently hear of
"spotted" Cyclamens so called, as if the character was fixed;
whereas the spots on the light flowers is always caused by an excess
of atmospheric humidity, and is evidence of improper management.

HIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 59

The first meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, at South
Kensington, for the present year, was held on the 18th of last
month, and was one of the best winter meetings ever held by the
society. The principal features were the grand banks of winter-
flowering Orchids, staged by Lord Londesborough, Tadcaster, York-
shire, and Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea; Ivies, by Mr.
Turner, of Slough, and Messrs. Lane and Sons, of Great Berkhamp-
stead ; and Cyclamens,"; by H. Little, Esq., of Cambridge Park,
Twickenham, and Mr. Wiggins, of Isleworth. Novelties were, of
course, scarce, but a few good things were shown. The most im-
portant were : — Cypripedium vexillarmm, a pretty hybrid, between
C. JPairreanum, and C. barbatum, with pale rose-purple, shading to
white, sepals and petals, and a brownish lip, from Messrs. Veitch
and Sons ; Ficus lanceolata, a most beautiful erect-growing species,
with lance-shaped, leathery leaves, averaging fifteen inches in length
and two in width ; and Pteris serrulata gleicJienifolia, a most elegant
variety of this fern, which has already been described in these pages,
from Messrs. A. Henderson and Co., Pine Apple Place, Maida Vale,
W., and Adiantum cajpillus-veneris Admirable, and Scolopendrium vul-
gare Consummation, both very pretty, from E. J. Lowe, Esq., Hillfield
House, Nottingham. All the above were deservedly awarded first-
class certificates. Amongst the new plants shown that received no
awards, mention must he made of a very bold, robust-growing variety
of Lomaria gibba, which will no doubt be much valued for exhibition
purposes, exhibited by Mr. Douglass, Loxford Hall, Ilford. At the
same meeting, Messrs. Carter and Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn,
W.C., exhibited fruit of the Solanum eiliatum, which promises to be
of immense value for conservatory decoration. The fruit is quite
round, averaging an inch in diameter, and is of a very deep red
colour. The plants are said to be neat and compact in growth, and
well adapted for pot culture.

The competition between Mr. Turner and Messrs. Lane and
Sons, for the prizes offered by the Society for nine specimen Ivies
was very spirited ; the former, however, succeeded in carrying oft' the
first prize with splendid specimens of the leading varieties. Mr.
Turner also exhibited a very fine bank of Aucubas, comprising well-
berried examples of the best varieties, and Mr. B. S. Williams, Vic-
toria and Paradise Nurseries, Upper Hollo way, exhibited a fine
variety with yellow berries, which has now retained its character for
the last five years. This is a most desirable acquisition because of
the striking appearance it has when placed in conjunction with the
scarlet-berried varieties.

Prizes w-ere offered for kitchen apples and pears, three dishes of
each, and the first prize in both classes was taken by Mr. Turner,
who exhibited grand examples of Golden Noble, Blenheim Orange,
and Alfriston Apples ; and Vicar of Winkfield, Cat iliac, and IJvedale
St. Germain Pears, all of which are first-rate for use at this season of
the year. Fine collections in both classes were put up by numerous
other exhibitors, but it would take up more room than could well
be afforded, to give the names. The varieties staged in all the collec-
tions were chiefly the same as those enumerated above. Amongst

60 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the miscellaneous fruit exhibited, occurred a dish of the Fairy Apple,
a showy variety of the Siberian Crab, of which it is difficult to say
too much. The fruit is rather small, very highly coloured, and as
the trees are very productive, a few specimens placed in prominent
parts of the shrubbery would have a very beautiful appearance during
the summer and autumn.

It will no doubt interest many to know that grapes can be cut
from the vine, and kept for several months, with the end of the
branch inserted in water. Mr. Cole, the head gardener at Ealing
Park, and one of the best grape-growers in the country, keeps a
portion of his last crop in this way, and was able, last summer,
to send fine plump samples of Lady Downe's Seedliug to table as
late as the middle of May. Soon after Christmas the bunches are
cut with about nine inches of wood below the bunch, and the ends of
the branches inserted in bottles filled with water, and suspended in
the fruit room, where the berries remain plump until long after the
crop in the first house is ready for table. The flavour does not suffer
the slightest deterioration because of the wood being placed in
water. The advantages of keeping grapes in this way are manifold ;
but the most important consists in enabling the cultivator to prune
the vines before the sap is in active circulation, and avoid the evils
arising from the loss of sap, which always occurs when the vines are
pruned late. Grapes grown in a ground vinery may also be kept in
the same way for a lengthened period. E. G.

THE GAEDEN" GUIDE EOE FEBRUAEY.

Flower Garden. — The unoccupied beds should be trenched or
dug up deeply, and have a liberal dressing of manure. Shallow
digging and want of food are the principal causes of such subjects
as verbenas and calceolarias failing in dry, hot summers. Any altera-
tions that may be on hand should be completed without delay, for the
ordinary routine of garden work will be quite sufficient to occupy
the hands and head for the next two months. New turf should be
laid down as speedily as possible, to enable it to get rooted before
the dry, hot weather is upon us. This is a suitable season for
making gravel walks and new box-edgings, as it gives the one time
to get consolidated, and the other rooted, before summer. Com-
plete the planting of deciduous trees and shrubs, towards the end of
the month, if the weather should be mild and open, unless the
situation is low and wet — in that case, it must be deferred until the
soil gets into favourable condition.

Kitchen Garden. — Continue to prepare the ground ready for
the summer crops, so that there may be no delay in getting each
crop in at its proper season. With this object in view, every plot
of ground should be manured and dug directly it becomes vacant.
It evinces a great want of neatness and order to see whole quarters
covered with old stumps of broccoli and winter greens until the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 61

moment they are required for other crops, apart from the injury
arising to succeeding crops through the non-pulverization of the
soil. Plant chives, garlic, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes,
rhubarb, and shallots, and also propagate perennial herbs by division
and offsets. Towards the end of the month, sow in sheltered posi-
tions Walcheren broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Early York and Red
cabbage, Early Horn carrots, chervil, leeks, lettuce, parsley, long
and turnip radishes, Early TJlm savoys, spinach, turnips, and Windsor
beans. Plant out autumn-sown cabbage and lettuce, if the soil is
in a nice friable condition. Spread seed potatoes out to enable them
to form hard purple sprouts by planting time.

Ebuit Garden. — The planting and pruning of all kinds of fruit-
trees must be finished at once. In nailing wall-trees, use new
shreds, and have them long enough to allow plenty of room for the
shoots to swell when growing.

Greenhouse. — In frosty weather use just sufficient fire to keep
the frost out, as the employment of a largo amount of fire-heat at
that time is injurious to nearly all the greenhouse plants. After
two or three damp days, light a fire to warm the pipes, to allow
the ventilators to be open, without the temperature being materially
lowered, and at the same time set the air in motion, and drive out
the stagnant atmosphere, which soon accumulates, without ventila-
tion. A few fuchsias should be started in a genial warmth, to fur-
nish cuttings for growing on for midsummer and autumn flowering.
Autumn-struck plants of show and fancy pelargoniums should be
potted in five or six-inch pots, without further delay, and they will
then make fine plants for conservatory decoration. Camellias should
be carefully watered, for, if allowed to get too wet or too dry, they
will soon shed their buds. Eerns must be kept rather dry, as they
are now at rest, and unable to absorb a large amount of moisture.
Tie and train all plants intended for exhibition, whether hard or
soft-wooded, if they require it, for there will be little time for this
kind of work next month. Look after green-fly, thrip, and mildew.
Eumigate with tobacco or tobacco-paper for the two former, and dust
with sulphur for the latter. All hard-wooded plants require free
ventilation, and soft-wooded kinds to be near the glass, with suffi-
cient air, to prevent their drawing up weakly.

Stove. — Ixoras, Eondeletias, Ailamandas, and Francisceas in-
tended to be cut back should have attention at once. They will
break stronger, and the young growth will be more thoroughly
matured than would be possible were the pruning left until they
get into full growth. Plants of this class must not have more water
than is sufficient to keep them in good health. Start Achimenes,
Caladiums, and Gloxinias. Good fibry loam, peat, and leaf-mould,
in equal quantities, with a sixth part of sharp silver-sand, will grow
all these plants to perfection, if they receive good management in
other respects. The Caladium pots should be covered with a layer
of cocoa-nut refuse, to keep the soil moist without its requiring to
be watered. Shake out ornamental-leaved Begonias, and repot in
the same compost as above. Do all the watering in the morning.

Eoectng. — Vines started last month should have a rise of about

62 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

five degrees, and those sufficiently advanced should be disbudded
directly the bunches can be discerned, and tied in when necessary.
Unless the vines are in flower, maintain a thoroughly moist atmos-
phere. Figs as they progress in growth must have plenty of mois-
ture at the roots, and be kept well syringed. The temperature
should range from 60' to 70° through the day, with a fall of ten
degrees at night. Peach and nectarine trees in bloom must have
plenty of air to insure the bloom setting. Those started earlier will
now require disbudding. Begin with the foreright shoots first, and
proceed gradually. Keep the trees regularly syringed, watch closely
for mildew after easterly winds, and apply sulphur directly it makes:
its apjDearance. See that the inside borders are in a proper state as
regards moisture. Cherries and plums must be started very slowly,
and have an abundance of air when in bloom ; 45" to 50" will be
plenty high euough to begin with. Pines in fruit may have a rise
of five degrees from last month, if the weather is mild and open ;
otherwise, let them remain the same. Succession plants "must not
be excited into growth yet, or they will suffer irreparable injury.
"Water when necessary, but guard against its getting into the
hearts of the plants. Fresh batches of asparagus, seakale, and
rhubarb must be put in for succession.

Pits and Frames. — Where the frames are full of bedding
plants, draw off the lights during the middle of the day, if the
weather is open and dry, otherwise give an abundance of air by tilt-
ing the lights at the back. Make up a nice hotbed for propagating
purposes, and raising seedlings. Bedding plants must now be pro-
pagated largely, as soon as the cuttings can be had, so as to give
the plants plenty of time to get strong and well hardened off before
the time for turning them out into beds.

Tree Ferns. — It is singular that no mention of the beautiful arborescent Ferns
is to be found in the classic authors of antiquity ; while reference is made to Bam-
boos, to the Banyan, or Indian Fig-tree, and to Palms. The first mention of arbore-
scent Ferns is by Oviedo, a Spanish writer, in 1535, in describing the vegetation of
Hayti. " Among Ferns," says this traveller, " there are some which I class with
trees, because they are as thick and high as Pine trees. They mostly grow among
the mountains, and where there is much water." Between the tropics, on the
declivities of the Cordilleras, the true region of arborescent Ferns lies between about
3200 and 5350 feet above the level of the sea. They seldom descend lower toward
the plains than 12S0 feet. The mean temperature of this region is between 64° and
70° Fahr.

Evaporation of Water from Plants. — Some researches have recently, ac-
cording to the Quarterly Journal of Science, been undertaken by Von Pattenkofer,
on the amount of evaporation which takes place from the foliage of plants. Th«
experiments were made in the case of an oak-tree, and extended over the whole
period of its summer growth. He found the amount of evaporation to increase
gradually from May to July, and then decrease till October. The number of leaves
on the tree was estimated at 751,532, and the total amount of evaporation in the
year at 539 06 cubic centimetres of water for the whole area of the leaves. The
average amount of rainfall for the same period is only 65 cubic centimetres ; the
amount of evaporation is thus 8| times more than that of the rainfall. The excess
must be drawn up by the roots from a great depth, and thus prevent the gradual
drying of a climate, by restoring to the air the moisture which would otherwise be
carried off bv the drainage.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. G3

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Tecoma Jasminioides. — A Two Tears' Subscriber. — The plant in question should
be grown in a greenhouse and trained up the rafters. It may either be grown in a
large pot or planted out in a border, but it is not suitable for training over a trellis
fixed in a pot. The most suitable compost is one consisting of loam, leaf-mould,
and peat, with a sprinkling of sand. If the loam is full of fibre the peat can be
dispensed with.

Pruning Jasminum officinale. — A Subscriber. — The growth should not be
clipped back, as you suggest ; but instead, thin out all the weakly shoots and
fasten the others to the walls. The longest branches may be cut back to about half
their length.

Planting Flower Garden. — Dorset. — The beds numbered 1, 2, and G ought to
match, and we should recommend you to plant 1 and 2 with Geranium Flower of
Spring, and Verbena Purple King ; and 6 with Geranium Mrs. Pollock and Verbena
Scarlet King. The bands across the centre of 3 and 4 ought to be the same ; and you
can employ either the Amaranthus or the Ageratum. A band of the Ageratum and
an edging of Amaranthus would be decidedly preferable. A band of yellow calceo-
larias in each of the beds would also be suitable. In either case the edging of both
beds should bs alike, but whether it consists of the Golden Feather or the Amaran-
thus must be left to your discretion. The former will be the most suitable if the
latter is employed in the centre. The three corner beds should have an edging of
Mangles' Variegated Geranium, and Iresine Herbsti should be left out of the
arrangement. The proposed planting of 5 is quite suitable. In planting 7 and 11
put the geraniums in the centre by all means, and unless your soil suits the Viola,
we would advise you to edge botli the beds with Lobelia speciosa. The other
arrangements are quite right. Flower of Spring is much better for edging pur-
poses, and if you have a sufficient stock of Bijou you will do well to employ it iu
1 and 2, and the Flower of Spring in 9.

Kainit. — M. A. I)., Northampton.— The agent in this country for the genuine
" Leopoldshall Kainit," to which allusion was made, is Mr. Meyerstein, 22, Queen-
street, London, E.C. There are, we believe, several worthless imitations sold under
the name of Kainit, therefore purchasers should be careful in buying this manure.

Indoor Fernery. — 31. A. D. — You will find the desired information in the
Floral World for July, 1869. The "Fern Garden," published by Messrs. Groom-
bridge and Sons, price 3*. 6d., contains a chapter on the construction of indoor
ferneries.

Lime. — M. A. D. — Spread the lime over the surface of the ground and dig or
plough it in as quickly as possible.

J. S. — You must prune all the shoots before vegetation becomes active, or the
vines will suffer severely from loss of sap. No advantage would result from prun-
ing in the manner proposed in your letter.

H. G. — No doubt the soil of your garden is congenial to roses upon the stock
mentioned, and therefore you have nothing to fear.

Mealy Bug. — P. S. — Wash the plants thoroughly with a solution of Gishurst
Compound, prepared according to the directions accompanying it. The vines, after
the loose bark has been removed, and the canes well washed with the solution,
should be painted with a second solution of the compound, to which a small propor-
tion of sulphur, soot, and clay has been added to give it consistency. In preparing
the Compound, adhere strictly to the directions, because if used too strong it will
injure the plants.

Ornamental-leaved Begonias. — J. R. N. — The following are very distinct and
beautiful, and require the same treatment as Begonia Rex, namely : Comte Alfred
de Limminghe, Marshalli, Charles Wagner, Queen of England, Keramis, Splendida
Argentea. Could you oblige us with a few details with your name attached f
They would be very acceptable to mr.ny readers who have only the convenience of
a window for plant-growing.

Diseased Pelargoniums. — M. A. L. — The soil in which the pelargoniums are
grown has become sour, probably through the pots being imperfectly drained.

An Edinburgh Subscriber is informed that the prices can generally be obtained
by application to the leading nurserymen.

64 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

S. K. — The chimney probably requires lengthening ; a higher chimney fitted
with a "mushroom" top would most likely prevent the down draught putting out
the gas.

Mrs. S. P., Pembroke, is informed that the plant is Acacia pubescens, and can
be procured at all the leading nurseries. The Americans cook the dry maize in a
wire cage placed over a clear fire. The cage is similar in shape to an ordinary fire-
shovel, but rather deeper. We cannot say whether the cage can be obtained in
this country or not.

Name of Plant. — A Subscriber. — We cannot undertake to name plants from
leaves only.

Cacti Culture. — Amateur. — See the Floral World for October, 1869. The
other plants mentioned should be pruned slightly to prevent them becoming unsightly.
The first series can still be had.

Waltonian Case. — R. S. — Possibly the cuttings perished through improper
management. One lamp ought to be quite sufficient. Geranium cuttings ought not
to be struck in a closed case. Try the case again towards the end of the month.
Joyce's Stove is the one we should recommend for your purpose.

J. F. — The high priced case is worth the extra cost. It is very simple and
thoroughly effective. The weekly cost of working would not be much. Both are
good cases.

A Neiv Subscriber. — The plants should be repotted annually in the autumn.
Tou cannot grow potatoes in a warm, dark cellar, but you may seakale and rhubarb.

Frozen Plants. — A Lady Gardener is informed that it is quite too late now to
do anything for the plants that were frozen. Should she be caught again, and
the frost gets in, she must put mats over the glass, or adopt some other means to
darken the house, and keep the temperature as near 32° as possible for at least
a day, and then let it rise veiy gradually. But we cannot recommend syringing
frozen plants with cold water, having seen it followed by the death of valuable
plants that probably would have survived if thawed gently, and in the dark.
Such things as hyacinths and tulips do not take much harm from a few degrees
of frost.

Poinsettia pulcherrima. — Ignoramus. — This beautiful shrub is easily grown
if it can have stove heat, but in a cool house cemes to no good. The soil
should consist of turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, dung rotted to powder, and sharp
sand, equal parts. If the cuttings are struck too early, the plants are apt to
grow leggy, but if too late, they may not bloom as early as required, and they
are usually required at Christmas. It is a good plan to keep a few old plants
to cut from at Christmas, as the green leaves and scarlet bracts are of great
value in dressing vases, etc., etc. To make nice young plants, take cuttings in
March, and dib them into pans filled with sand, and place on a heat of 70°.
Keep them rather dryer than cuttings are usually kept when in heat, but do
not let them flag. When rooted, pot them in small pots, and put on the tank
or tan bed again. Shift as required. Strike a few more in May, July, and
August. Summer temperature 65° to 903 ; winter temperature 49° to 50D, and
the plants then to be rather dry.

Salting Asparagus Beds.— J". Tlr. — Asparagus may be poisoned by the exces-
sive use of salt, as any other plant may, yet it will bear salting to a great extent
without injury ; and within a certain mark, salt is highly beneficial. The best
mode of using salt is to sprinkle the surface of the bed every fortnight, merely
applying sufficient to make a perceptibly white coating, commencing in the last
week of March, and continuing the applications till the last week in July. If alter-
nately with the saltings liquid manure can be applied, the growth will be much
more satisfactory ; indeed, it is by combining the two agents that the " giant "
asparagus is grown for Covent Garden Market. Some cultivators apply a heavy
coating of salt in March, and give no more till the stems are cut down in autumn ;
but this is an objectionable plan, because the plant has more salt than it can appro-
priate in the early period of growth, and scarcely any when it in full vigour, and
engaged in forming the embryo buds that are to furnish shoots for the next season.
Where it is not possible to apply a thin sprinkling of salt every alternate week
throughout the growing season, the system of heavy dressing in the month of
March must be adopted, and the quantity applied should be at the rate of twenty-
four bushels per acre.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 65

EMBROIDERY BEDDING.

{With a Coloured Illustration.)

IT is so common for critics of horticultural affairs to cry
for novelties, that we must offer them enthusiastic con-
gratulations on the inauguration of a new idea in
bedding, the tone and purpose of which are fairly repre-
sented in the accompanying illustration. They have
travelled from Dan to Beersheba, to find the land barren of ideas,
though fruitful enough in geraniums, verbenas, and petunias, all
disposed in accordance with the several degrees of good and bad
taste that have prevailed for half-a-century. At last, after an in-
finity of grumbling, the accustomed flowers are superseded by
leaves ; and, in place of dots of colour of the primary class, with
gaps of unclothed ground between, we have sheets of colour of the
secondary and tertiary classes quite covering the ground, and bear-
ing such a general resemblance to embroidery as to justify the name
by which this system is to be henceforth known. Hitherto the best
examples of the new system have been developed in the vicinity of
the metropolis. The displays of embroidery in the "Subtropical
Garden " at Battersea Park last season were remarkably rich and
tasteful, and as meritorious for originality of design as for the splen-
dour of the effect produced. A much less extensive, but, as regards
colouring, equally artistic and effective, display was made in the
nursery of Mr. John Fraser, Lea Bridge Road — the planting aud
general effect of which are faithfully reproduced in the illustration.
So many subjects press for attention now, that we must beg per-
mission to deal with this subject more briefly than its importance
deserves. Fortunately, however, there are but two important points
that imperatively demand notice in connection with its leading
features. The first of these is, that leaf-colours only are admissible
— if flowering plants are employed, their heads of flower-buds must
be nipped out as soon as they appear ; for flowers of any kind,
unless they happen to be quite inconspicuous, or are so profusely
produced as to entirely hide their green leaves, only mar instead of
heightening the harmony of the effect, which depends on breadths
of solid unmixed colour, which flowering plants are quite incapable
of producing. Thus, if we were to plant verbenas in one of the
compartments of a scheme intended for embroidery, we should first
have a thin field of green leaves, then dottings of colour upon it ;
and there is no possibility of ordering the matter otherwise — a
mixed effect must be the result. On the other hand, by employing
leaf-colours only, we secure oneness of effect in every line or block,
and the colouring is the same from first to last, except as to inten-
sity ; and of course the utmost intensity occurs coincidently with
the complete development of the plants. In other words, the affair
is in its best trim when the materials of Avhich it is composed have
acquired a free growth, and have quite covered the ground, and are
still fresh and bright with health and their initial vigour. Another

VOL. VI. — NO. III. 5

66 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

point of importance is, that schemes of this kind require the neatest
finishing ; and for that reason difficult curves and angles should be
avoided, because of the risk that the summer's growth may destroy
their proper contour. It is not absolutely necessary to finish the
boundaries with raised edges planted with echeverias or semper-
vivums, as for the most part has hitherto been done ; but it is un-
questionably a most artistic mode of procedure, and those who can
do it should adopt the plan until they, or other fortunate people,
shall discover something better. In the example before us, the edge
of the embroidery stands up square and firm above the general sur-
face of the ground, and is planted with two plants of the house-leek
family, the result being a sharp line of glaucous-tinted rosettes,
which no other edging hitherto tried can equal for beauty and com-
pleteness. The sharp edge is obtained by setting up planks on edge
to mark the boundary, and forming against the inner side of the
planks a brick-like line of earth by the process known to gardeners
under the designation of " slopping in." We may be the better
understood, perhaps, if we say that the edge of the bed is moulded
to a firm, straight, square line by soaking the soil with water, and
then pressing it in the form of mud against the board. When the
work has acquired consistency, the planks are removed, and the edge
is planted by scooping out holes for the plants, and inserting them
just as they are taken out of small pots, without breaking the ball
of soil.

As remarked above, the principal furniture for an embroidery
scheme must be of leaf colours. Perhaps a few such plants as the
" pumila" section of Lobelias might be used ; but our advice to all
is, to employ no flowering-plant at all for a display until it has been
first tried in some obscure, out-of-the-way place experimentally.
The colourist who will be content to begin with a few of the most
easily-managed and strikingly characteristic of leaf plants will find
it quite an easy task to produce a sumptuous display on this system.
It is, in fact, a far easier matter to produce a successful result by
leaf colours than with flowering-plants, for all the plants are
amenable to the simplest treatment, and they produce their proper
effect of colour (though, of course, not in proper intensity) on the
very day that they are planted ; whereas with flowering-plants the
proper effect must be waited for, and if the season is unfavourable it
may never be produced. Moreover, as the majority of the very best
plants for the purpose are nearly hardy, and can be quickly raised
from seed, this is a comparatively inexpensive system, and therefore
makes a double claim for attention and appreciation on all who are
in any way concerned about the colouring of the parterre. Amongst
the more useful plants for leaf-colouring in embroidery, we may
mention Amaranthuses, Alternantheras, Perillas, Centaureas, Cine-
rarias, the Golden Feather Pyrethrum, Cerastiums, Coleus, Iresines,
Sempervivums, and Echeverias. The scheme represented in the
illustration requires a border of about seven feet, and should be
elevated about six inches above the level of the grass verge. The
outside edging on the face of the raised edge was formed of Semper-
vivum californicum, and above it, on the edge of the flat, was a row

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 67

of Echeveria glauea. Next this was a solid line of Golden Feather,
continued back in circles and arches, to mark out the principal lines
of the pattern of the embroidery. In the centre of every circle was
a plant of Echeveria metallica, surrounded with Alternanthera
amoena and Alternanthera amabilis. In the front of each of the
arches or semicircles were rows of Amaranthus bicolor, backed with
two rows of Amaranthus melancholicus ; and then proceeding towards
the back, one row each Centaurea ragusina, Iresine Lindeni, Coleus
Verschaffelti, and Cineraria maritima. A hedge of Arbor-vitae forms
the boundary in the rear. S. H.

MELONS.

BY GEOEGE GBAY,
Head Gardener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston-on-Thames.

ELONS are supposed to be difficult to cultivate, because
they cannot be brought round, when they have suffered
from neglect or bad treatment, so quickly, if at all, as
cucumbers and a few other things that could be men-
tioned. In reality, by attending to the plants at the
right moment, it will be found that the difference in the amount of
skill required to produce a crop of melons and a crop of cucumbers
is by no means great. Having had considerable experience in
melon-growing, both for market purposes and home use, and know-
ing the difficulties the young professional and the amateur horticul-
turist have to encounter, I have ventured to send a few notes on
the subject. Before dealing with the details, it will be well to
remark that they can be grown in either houses or pits heated with
water, or in frames heated with or without fermenting materials.
It, however, is only the late summer crop that can be cultivated
without the assistance of artificial heat. When grown in houses,
they should be trained to a trellis fixed at a distance of about twelve
inches from the glass, and the fruit supported, to prevent an undue
strain upon the vines. When grown in pits, they can be either
trained to a trellis, or over the surface of the bed ; but, when ordi-
nary wooden frames, or " boxes," are employed, the latter is the
most desirable method of training.

Let us first deal with growing them in houses ; and, in doing so,
it is necessary to state that the stock with which the house is to be
planted should be raised in it. It is a very serious error, although
very popular, to suppose that plants raised in the close, moist atmo-
sphere of a dung-bed are suitable for planting in houses heated with
hot water. The atmosphere of the house is too dry for them ; and,
although direct failure does not ensue, much time is lost. Indeed,
without great care, the dry atmosphere will cause the leaves to curl
up and perish ; and, without a slight shade in bright weather, they
will be completely burnt up. On the other hand, plants raised in

68 TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the house grow up and become accustomed to the somewhat dry
atmosphere, and are consequently better able to battle with its un-
congeniality. It is a most, excellent plan to sow the seed singly in
small 60-size pots, filled about half full of soil, and then to earth
up the young plants until the pots are filled. It is very important
not to keep the plants starving in pots, and everything should be in
readiness for their being planted by the time the leader is fairly
formed. The early crops must have the assistance of a genial
bottom-heat, which can be supplied either by hot-water pipes along
the bottom of the bed, or by fermenting materials. If fermenting
materials are employed, they should be put in the bed before the
seed is sown, to aftbrd time for the bed to become thoroughly sweet
and consolidated by the time the plants are ready for turning out.

Prepare the compost by mixing a small portion of leaf-mould
with sound turfy loam, just to keep it open. Manure must not be
employed, as it encourages an over-luxuriant growth, and renders
the plants liable to be attacked with canker, which is one of the
worst enemies the melon has to contend with. When prepared, put
the compost in a ridge of about fifteen inches in thickness, and about
twenty inches in width, down the centre of the beds, and beat it
very firm with the back of the spade. Plant when the soil has
become nicely warmed; and, if the heat of the fermenting material
exceeds, or is likely to exceed, 90°, lay a few strips of turf under
the ridge, to prevent the possibility of the roots being injured by
the heat. In a few weeks the roots will penetrate to the outside of
the ridge, and then put about six or nine inches of soil, of the same
temperature as that of the house, on each side ; and repeat the
operation as required, until the space allotted to the bed is filled.

Each plant must be trained up with a single shoot, and sup-
ported with a neat stake, until the trellis is reached ; then nip out
the point of each, and train the side-shoots regularly over the trellis,
to afford each an equal amount of space. Allow each shoot to extend
to the limits of the trellis, and then stop it. This will cause the
production of laterals, most of which will show one or more fruit.
If the trellis is likely to become over-crowded, thin out a few of the
weakest laterals, reserving the final thinning until the fruit is set ;
but a large amount of growth must not be removed at one time.
In fine, open weather in the summer, the flowers will generally
become fertilized by insect agency ; but, as a rule, the safest plan is
to fertilize them artificially, by taking off the male blossom, and
dusting the pollen on to the stigma of the fruit-bearing flower.
The bed must have a thorough soaking of water just before the
principal portion of the fertile flowers expand, and then no more
must be applied until the fruit has attained the size of a small hen's
egg, or they will turn yellow and fall off.

Ventilate freely whenever the air can be admitted without ex-
posing the plants to cold draughts, which are most injurious, and at
other times only admit sufficient air to maintain a pure atmosphere.
Shut up early, and syringe the foliage with tepid water to keep free
from red spider and thrips, and to maintain a healthy growth. A
few cans of water should be thrown on the paths two or three times

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

69

a day, as time will permit, in dry hot weather, and also syringe in
the morning, as well as in the afternoon, during the summer months.
Syringing in the morning must be done early enough to admit of
the foliage becoming dry before the sun shines upon it, because if
the sun is allowed to act upon it when wet it will be severely injured.
Syringing must be discontinued during the period stated for with-
holding the water, and also as soon as the fruit has reached its full
size. If continued after the above-mentioned period, the fruit will
crack, and of course be quite worthless.

When cultivated in ordinary wooden frames, it is necessary to
have the fermenting materials well sweetened. A mixture of stable
manure and leaves is better than all manure, as the heat is steadier
and lasts much longer. The fermenting materials should be turned
over several times, and watered if it appears likely to heat dry. The
bed should be about three feet in thickness, and a little larger each
way than the frame ; and in making up must be beaten very firm with
the fork, and also sprinkled with water, unless the materials are

GILBERT S IMPBOVED VICTORY OF BATH.

very moist. Place the frame upon the bed, and put sufficient inside
to raise the bed about nine inches when well trodden. Put the lights
on, and tilt them at the back sufficiently to enable all noxious exha-
lations that rise from the manure to escape. In two or three days
cover the whole surface with a thin layer of loam, and place a hillock
of soil in the centre of each light, with a layer of turf underneath
for the purposes stated above. In a few days the plants can be put
out, one or two to each light, according to its size. Make one or
two holes in the centre of each hillock just large enough to receive
the pots, then turn the plants out, drop them in their places, press
the soil firm about them, and water liberally to settle the soil. Then
keep close for a few days, and shade lightly.

Stop the plauts when they have four or five joints each, traiu
out the side-shoots regularly over the bed, and stop them just before
they reach the side of the frame, and deal with them as advised for
managing them in the houses. Here let me state that the young
growth, after the laterals are produced from the side-shoots, must
be well thinned out, both in frames and houses, to prevent over-
crowding. When the frame or trellis is filled with healthy growth

70 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

and the fruit set, the young shoots that are produced afterwards,
unless specially required, should be removed with the finger and
thumb as soon as they are two or three inches in length. In
removing full-grown leaves, which will be necessary occasionally,
pinch them off just under the blade, and leave the leaf-stalk, for
when the latter is cut off at its base the stem frequently cankers and
perishes. The laterals which have to carry fruit must not be stopped
at all, whether in frames or houses. Fruit in frames must be elevated
above the foliage by means of flower-pots turned bottom upwards.
Syringing, watering, earthing up, and other details, must be carried
out in the manner advised for the management of the plants in the
houses.

I have frequently grown good crops in frames that are usually
occupied with bedding plants during the winter, without any artificial
heat at all. A few plants are put in eight-inch pots in April, and
grown on in one of the houses, and the necessary steps taken to
insure their being well hardened off by planting- time. Then, im-

COXS GOLDEN GEM.

mediately the bedders are removed, two or three barrowfuls of the
leaves or tan upon which they were placed is taken out from the
centre of each light, and replaced with soil, prepared as advised for
the houses. The frames are closed early in the afternoon to econo-
mize the sun-heat, and the plants syringed at the same time, excepting
when the fruit is setting and after it has nearly reached its full size.
It is important to give plenty of air when the fruit is setting, and in
warm weather the lights may be drawn off for a few hours in the
middle of the day. In all other respects the treatment should be the
same as advised for frames where fermenting materials are employed.
As it requires from three to four months from the time of sowing
the seed until the fruit reaches maturity, the cultivator must shape
his course accordingly. For the early crops, when heat is maintained
by artificial means, the temperature should range from 70° to 75° ;
but with sun-heat it may go up to 85° or 90° with plenty of air.
The beds must not be kept in a constantly saturated state, but moist

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 71

enough to maintain a healthy growth. Watering must not be
neglected until the soil is dust-dry, or the fruit will split when the
bed is watered.

Four sorts are quite sufficient for an ordinary-sized garden.
Probably the two best green-fleshed varieties in cultivation are Cox's
Golden Gem and Gilbert's Improved Victory of Bath, now being sent
out by Messrs. J. Carter and Co., of High Holborn. The former
was raised by Mr. Cox, gardener to Earl Beauchamp, Madresfield
Court, and the latter by Mr. Gilbert, gardener to the Marquis of
Exeter, Burghley. Both are robust in constitution, free setters,
and the fruit, which is of a large size, is very handsome in appear-
ance and most excellent in flavour. There are several other good
sorts, but with the above no other will be required. The best
scarlet-fleshed varieties are Malvern Kail and Turner's Scarlet
Gem. As a rule green-fleshed melons have the finest flavour.

THE BEGINNER IN GRAPE-GROWING— No. III.

BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

TINERIES AND VINE BORDERS.

fUILDING a vinery without having a properly-prepared
border for the reception of the vines may be put down
as so much money wasted, excepting so far as the house
is useful for wintering bedding plants. A " properly-
prepared border" is not an extravagant affair, yet it is
the rock upon which so many grape-growers founder. I could name
dozens of gardens where the proprietors have built handsome and
roomy houses, and have incurred a large outlay in the purchase of
vines to plant them with, but directly the purchase of soil was
mooted they buttoned up their pockets, and refused sufficient means
to make the borders in a satisfactory manner. But I will refrain, as
it would serve no useful purposes.

We will first speak of the vinery, of which it is not necessary to
say much, because so much depends upon the means at disposal.
As these notes are written entirely for amateurs, who naturally are
anxious to be as economical as possible, I have selected for illustrating
them some designs of " Paxton" vineries, erected in various parts of
the country by Messrs. Hereman and Morton, 14, Tichborne Street,
Regent Quadrant, London, wTho possess the exclusive right of manu-
facturing them. The cheapness, portability, and general excellence
of these houses have been already described in these pages, therefore
it is not necessary to enlarge upon their merits. It appears, how-
ever, desirable to state that the manufacture of Paxtonians is not
confined to the plain forms here illustrated, which have been selected
simply for their cheapness and utility, but can be had in the most
artistic designs. For very early, or for very late work, lean-to

72

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

houses of a sharp pitch, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2, are the best
forms that could be adopted. A much steadier heat can be main-
tained in a lean-to house than in a span-roof during the winter and
early spring months, and late grapes keep better in them. Why

Fig. 1. — Section of eaely or late Vinery.

this is so could be readily explained, but it would take up more
space than can be well afforded, and for all practical purposes it is
sufficient to put on record that such is the fact. The advantages of
span-roofed houses over lean-to's consists in their being cheaper in
proportion to their capacity. For instance, the same quantity of
grapes may be grown in a span 'roof house fifty feet long as in a

Fig. 2. — View of early or late Vinery.

lean-to double that length. Supposing the length of the roof to be
the same in both cases, the expense of the back wall would be
entirely saved, as the cost of the wood-work, glass, front walls, and
heating apparatus would be the same for either lean-to or span. In

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

73

building lean-tohouses for early work,it is essential that the roof should
have a sharp pitch like that shown in figs. 1 and 2, because such a
powerful fire is not required to keep up the proper temperature
during a severe frost. The sun also shines more directly upon the
roof during the short days, and the vines derive the fullest possible
benefit from its rays. For the late summer and autumn crops a
flatter roof is desirable.

In building span-roof houses, with roofs from twelve to sixteen
feet in length, the walls must be stronger than those required for
lean-to's, as the strain upon them is much greater. The ends should
also face due north and south, although a slight deviation from that
rule will not matter much. The roofs should have a sharper pitch
thau those of a bmaller size. Fig. 3 is a fair example of the angle

P^»

Fig. 3. — Span-roof Vinery foe. Summer and Autumn.

at which they should be fixed. Front lights are not required for
any of the houses, although there is no objection to their employ-
ment where the cost of the structure is of secondary consideration.
It is, however, necessary in the case of houses ventilated at the top
to have ventilators at the front, and for this purpose, small wooden
shutters in the front wall will answer every purpose. The lights
ought not to rest upon the border, as shown in the accompanying
sketches, because it renders it extremely inconvenient to thin the
branches at the lower part of the vines, and also to attend to the
vines. The front walls, or walls and front lights combined, ought

74

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

to be about three feet in height, and they should be arched to
enable the roots of the vines to extend to the outside border.

Heating must now engage our attention. The early houses must
be heated efficiently, and lean-to houses like Figs. 1 and 2, twelve
feet wide, and the same in height, ought to have not less than six
rows of four-inch pipes, four rows along the front where the two
are shown, and two next the wall at the back. Second early houses
should have not less than four rows, and all others two. There will
be no harm in having more pipes than here advised, because they
will not require to be made so hot to maintain the desired temperature.
It will be false economy to fix less pipes than here advised, as a
stronger fire will be required to maintain the desired temperature,
and the heat will not be so congenial. Span-roof houses, double
the width of lean-to's, will require rather more than double the
quantity of piping, because they are more exposed to the north and
easterly winds. The pipes should be supported on pillars of brick-
work that rest upon the concrete at the bottom of the border, or when
the border sinks they will become displaced, the joints leak, and the
rapid circulation of the water be impeded. During the erection of the
houses active preparation of the materials for making the vine
border should be going on. Where the border is to be entirely below
the surface, the soil must be taken out to a depth of four feet, and
the foundation of the walls should be rather below that, so that they
are not interfered with in making the border. The bottom of the
borders should be perfectly hard and unbroken, and for span-roof
houses slope in the manner shown in Fig. 4, with drains at D, D, D,

Fig. 4. — Section of Span-roof Vinery (to show slope of border).

to carry off the water quickly ; but the borders of lean-to houses
should have a uniform slope from the back wall to the other side of
the border, at the rate of half an inch to the foot. Inside the house,
the surface of the borders must be perfectly level, for with the slopes
shown in the illustrations it would be a work of difficulty, if not
impossible, to water them properly. The water would run off as
fast as it was poured on, and a very small quantity indeed would
soak into the soil. If from any cause it is considered desirable to
elevate the surface of the inside border above the level of the path,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 75

a nine-inch wall, with a neat coping, set in cement, should be erected
to keep the soil in its place. A wooden trellis, laid on the surface
of the border is, perhaps, the most desirable path for houses exclu-
sively devoted to grape-growing. The surface of outside borders
should have a slope of two inches to the foot to carry off beavy rains
quickly. The whole of the inside border, and three feet of the out-
side portion, should be made wben the house is erected, and then it
can be increased in width by the addition of three feet every second
or third year ; but the borders of houses, twelve feet wide, will not
require the first addition until about the fourth year.

Concrete for the bottom of the border, to prevent the roots
striking down into the subsoil, should be prepared by mixing gravel
and hot-slaked lime together until it is of the consistency of mortar.
It should be spread over the surface, about three or four inches in
thickness, and sufficient time allowed for it to become hardened
before the drainage is put upon it. Before the rubble, which should
be about nine inches in thickness, is put in, a drain formed of ordi-
nary tiles must be laid down in the lowest position to carry off all
tbe water that collects in the bottom, and it must of course be con-
nected with one of the main drains of the garden, unless the subsoil
is of a gravelly nature, and then a dry well, at a distance of about
twenty yards from the border, will suffice for receiving the surplus
water.

In the preparation of the compost for forming the borders, it
must be borne in mind that vines require a soil that will not run
together in a close unctuous mass, but remain open and pervious to
moisture at all times. Hence, the loam selected, should be taken
from the surface, say to a depth of about four inches, of common or
pasture land, so that it has a fair proportion of fibrous matter in its
composition. To secure a thoroughly open compost, and one most
suited to the production of good crops of grapes, add to every eight
loads of loam, two loads of brick-rubbish, one of horse-droppings,
and 250 lb. of inch bones. If the soil is of a rather tenacious
nature, two loads of burnt clay should be added, and only one load
of brick-rubbish used. Bones, besides being of immense service in
furnishing the vines with food for several years after they are put in
the border, materially assist in keeping it open. They are rather
expensive, costing at the present time about £7 a ton, but they will
more than repay their cost. Chop the loam up roughly, and well
mix the other ingredients with it, and in filling in to a depth of
three feet, tread the soil rather firm. Before filling the border,
cover the drainage with a thinly cut turf, to prevent the fine soil
running down between the stones and brickbats. The planting
must be left until next month, as these notes have extended to too
great a length to admit of that part of the subject having justice
done to it without taking up more space than can be well afforded.

(In my last chapter, read in the eleventh line from the top of page
52, " to hand," instead of " too hard.")

76 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

GLEANINGS FKOM CATALOGUES.

BY W. D. PRIOR, ESQ.

HERE are few more useful subjects connected with the
literature of the garden than good catalogues. As these
are at present arranged by the first-class firms, they
are not merely lists of names, but contain a considerable
amount of interesting and scientific information, as well
as many valuable cultural directions. I have some for the present
season now before me which suggest so many important considera-
tions upon horticultural operations, present and to come, as to appear
worthy of being placed before the readers of the Floral World.

Lack of variety in the subjects used for the summer beds has
long been felt to be a great defect, inasmuch as there are but few
comparatively amongst first-class flowers that combine that union
of qualities which the exigencies of the case demand. Flowers used
for beds and borders, on the system of colour-planting which gene-
rally prevails, should be dwarf, compact, continuous in bloom, able
to withstand uninjured equally the effects of sun or rain. Their
colours, whatever the hue, ought to possess brilliancy in the highest
degree. Moreover, simplicity, and readiness of propagation, and
moderate cost must be added to their other qualifications. How many
of the higher order of perennial varieties possess these features ? Still
fewer are the instances to be found amongst the annuals. Hence
every novelty in this line deserves a comprehensive trial. Happy
the hybridizer or raiser who succeeds in producing a really meri-
torious addition to the lists. Let him deservedly obtain hosts of
customers, and be able to place a goodly balance to his credit at the
bank.

Amongst select plants for outdoor purposes, the following appear
deserving general attention : —

Gentaurea Glementii, centres or edges of large groups, two to
three feet high ; silver grey, like other Centaureas ; plume-like and
downy.

Dicentra chrysanthra (Dielytra), erect grape-like gold-coloured
flowers ; blooms iu autumn.

Delphinium consolida Jlore-pleno candelabrum, a new dwarf race
of larkspur, scarcely one foot in height; its name derived from
throwing out curved branches like a candelabrum ; mixed colours.

Mignonette, Parson's White, almost pure white ; spikes six or
seven inches in leugth. Another mignonette of great value is

Reseda odorata grandiflora ameliorata, pyramidal form ; one to
two and a half feet high ; spikes reddish tint ; suitable for pots, and
grows quite a shrub in open ground.

Solanum hybridum, Wetherill's New Hybrids ; produces plen-
tifully orange-red berries during winter ; a dinner-table plant.

Statice spicata, dwarf and spreading, elegant foliage, free flowers
of lovely rose colour ; beds or pots.

Viola luiea grand/flora, bedder; hardy, free-blooming; if sown in

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 77

a cold frame or greenhouse, and transplanted, soon grows and flowers
freely.

Zinnia elegans, double white, valuable for cut flowers ; nearly
always true.

The price of these, according to the catalogue of a first-class
house, varies from Is. to 2s. 6d. per packet.

Besides the above, there are three varieties of Celosia worthy of
attention, viz. : —

Celosia atroviolacea pyramidalis, three to four feet high, furnished
to the ground with branches and spikes of bright purple flowers,
eight to nine inches long.

Celosia nana aurantiaca pyramidalis, dwarf species from Cochin
China, one to one and a half feet ; foliage light green and branching,
every shoot terminating with a spike or plume of rich fawn colour.

Celosia pyramidalis versicolor, var. hybridafoliis atrobrunneis.

These Celosias are splendid for the greenhouse or conservatory
in autumn.

Leptosiplwn roseus, elegant new dwarf annual ; flowers bright rose ;
height three inches.

Nemophila elegans, dwarf, free centre pure white, edged with
dark chocolate.

Sweet Pea,, Invincible, scarlet ; glorious for a fence or mound.

Pyrethrum, Golden Feather, invaluable plant for edgings ; green-
ish golden yellow.

Sanvitalia jlore-pleno, bedder, bright golden yellow.

Tropceolum compactum, Tom Thumb; dwarf bedder; various
shades yellow and orange. Crystal Palace Gem, sulphur and ma-
roon, dwarf. Grandijlorum Brilliant, climber. Lobbianutn, var.
Lucifer, bright scarlet, metallic leaves.

OENAMENTAL GRASSES.

Arundo donax, variegatn, Arundo conspicua.

Gynerium argenteum (Pampas grass) There are three varieties
— the Common, with silvery panicles ; the " Rosy," with purplish-
red panicles ; the " Variegated," with elegant striped leaves.

Avena sterilis, " Animated Oats."

NEW BOBECOLES WITH OBNAMENTED FOLIAGE.

Triple-curled Variegated perennial borecole, for pots, or orna-
mental shrub for the open ground ; foliage a brilliant melange of
purple, green, white, mauve, olive, and yellow.

Improved ditto, similar to the above. To keep them dwarf and
compact, sow thinly in poorish soil in May ; transfer at any time to
winter garden.

FOLIAGE BEDDEBS.

One of the most elegant and effective improvements in outdoor
gardening that has been made for many years is the adoption of
foliage plants as a means for ornament. There is a chaste beauty in
the subdued tones of these plants highly satisfactory to the artistic
eye, and in many cases their forms are so striking as to lend a finish

78 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

to certain situations which no other class of vegetable objects could
supply. We will point out a few : —

Amaranthus bicolor ruber, bedder ; foliage plant ; bright fiery
red, passing to dark bronze at the margin, sometimes tipped with
yellow ; described as one of the most striking of its line known.

Amaranthus melancholicus ruber, very beautiful, and one of the
most handsome of foliage bedders that can be raised from seed.

Beta cicla Praziliensis, bedder ; crimson leaves and golden stalks.

C ANNAS.

Cannas are invaluable, and the following are all good : —

G. annei, G. marginata, G. Bihorellii, good dwarf for small
gardens ; G. coccinea vera, G. discolor, C. jloribunda, C. elegantissima,
G. grandis, G. gigantea, G. indica superba, C. musoefolia hybrida,
foliage silvery shading ; G. Peruviana, C. P. nova, G. purpurea, G.
spectabilis magnifica, G. Warcewicsii zebrina, and C. zebrina elegantis-
sima, striped.

Carduus (Scotch thistle), acanthoides, benedictus, marianus,
nigrescens, remarkable for form.

Gentaureas (silvery foliage), ragusina compacta, Glementii.

Cineraria maritima and C. platanifolia, silvery plants.

Chamcerops humilis, a most elegant hardy palm.

Coleus (many varieties, of coloured and edged leaves, some of
them almost rivalling the ancectochili in effect), mollis, scutellaroides
purpurea (dark purple), Verscliaffeltii, are invaluable.

Eclieveria metallica, very bold, curious, and handsome.

Humea elegans, most charmingly elegant ; may be called a
" grass," though it is not one.

Oxalis corniculata rubra, fine edging plant ; deep chocolate.

Perilla nankinensis, a good poor man's plant, being cheap and
easily grown.

Bicinus, of various kinds, all remarkable in foliage ; grand objects
in suitable positions. May be sown where they are to remain, in
the mouth of May.

Wigandia caracasana, foliage picturesque sombre green ; noble
habit, some of the leaves being three feet long by two feet broad,
richly veined and undulated ; the stem has a crimson pilose covering.

Li the selection we have thus given will be found the materiel
for an almost endless variety of combinations for beds, for borders,
or the subtropical garden. To attempt to give a detailed course
of treatment for each would be to swell this paper to an inordinate
length, and run the risk of being charged with unnecessary tau-
tology, their culture having been so exhaustively treated, from time
to time, in these pages. It will have sufficed to have called the
timely attention of floriculturists to their broad character — a " word
in season, how good it is ! " — because seeds should be sown as early
as conditions permit. It is not a light labour to wade through
catalogues, and make anything like a varied and comprehensive
selection therefrom. It is hoped the above will prove useful and
acceptable.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 79

BEDDERS AND BEDDING.— No. II.

BY A HEAD GARDENER.
SELECT BEDDERS FOE ALL PURPOSES.

'IRECTTONS were given last month for the preparation

of the propagating pit, etc., etc., and provided they

were acted upon, everything will now be in readiness

for commencing the propagation of the stock in earnest.

There is now no time to lose, and I will proceed at once

to indicate a few of the best and most distinct in their respective

classes for gardens of limited dimensions.

We will commence with

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Ageratums. — The three best are Tom Thumb, Imperial Dwarf,
and Prince Alfred, the heights of which average four, eight, and
fifteen inches respectively, and are very neat in growth. The flowers
are all of the same delicate lavender-blue hue. They can be either
raised from seeds or cuttings, but the seed must be sown immediately.

Calceolarias. — The most valuable of all the yellow varieties
is Golden Gem. Gaines's Yellow and Yellow Prince of Orange are
both good, but inferior to it. The best of the brown sorts is Brown
Prince, but it is not effective enough for bedding purposes. Very little
can be done in propagating calceolarias in the spring, unless a few
plants were taken up and potted in the autumn, as the young stock
cannot be placed in heat and forced into growth for the purpose of
supplying cuttings in the same way as verbenas and petunias.

Deliotropiums. — The best of these are Etoile de Marseilles,
Jersey Beauty, and Miss Nightingale, all of which have very dark
flowers, combined with a compact habit.

Lobelias. — The best of the strong-growing varieties of L. erinus,
of which the well-known Speciosa may be taken as a type, are
Blue King, blue ; Indigo Blue, deep blue ; Speciosa spectabilis, very
dark blue ; and Trentham Blue, bright blue, with white eye. Pumila
grandijtora, azure blue, is the best of that section ; it is very
compact in growth, and a most profuse bloomer. All the above can
be raised from seed, which can be obtained from any of the leading
seedsmen. The seedlings will not, however, be so regular in growth
as those from cuttings, and the flowers will also vary slightly in hue.

Pelargoniums, Zonal.— A vast improvement has been effected
in these useful bedders within the last three or four years, yet many
flower gardeners still propagate and grow Tom Thumb and Trentham
Scarlet just the same as if there were no better sorts in cultivation.
The following are the best of those obtainable at a cheap rate,
namely, Scarlet, Thomas Moore, Jean Sisley, Vesuvius, Omega; and
for large beds, William Undenvood and Warrior. Light Scarlet,
Excellent and Lucius ; and for very small beds, and for edging pur-
poses Tristram Shandy. Rosy. Scarlet, Hector and Emily Morland,
both of which are good. White, Purity and White Wonder. Pink,

80 Tllli FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEiN GUIDE.

Beauty of Lee, Advancer, and Christine. Salmon, Gloire de Corbeny
and Sensation, but neither of the last two are of much value in the
flower garden.

Pelargoniums, Nosegay. — The varieties belonging to this
section surpass, in many respects, the preceding, although both are
indispensable to a well-kept flower garden. The best of the older
varieties tried here are Charley Casbon, orange scarlet, dwarf; Morn-
ing Star, same colour but taller, Geant de Batailles, dark scarlet,
Wallham Seedling and Bonfire, bright scarlet : Violet Hill Nosegay,
rosy scarlet, dwarf, and free. There are many other varieties that
are good bedders, but the above are decidedly the best in the several
colours.

Petunias. — The following are all good : Shrubland Rose, rose
white throat ; Miss Earl, rosy pink ; Purple Bedder, purplish crimson ;
Spitfire, very dark purple. Several of the varieties will come true
from seed, but to insure their commencing to bloom early in the
season, the seed must be sown immediately. In summers like that
of last year, nearly all the varieties grown do well in the open
borders, but they are soon injured by rough weather, and therefore
they canoot be confidently recommended.

TropvEOLTJMS. — The best of the compact growers are Chafer's
Advancer, brilliant scarlet; Star of Fire, bright orange scarlet; The
Moor, blackish maroon. The two best trailing varieties are Coo-peri,
scarlet, and Attraction, yellow. The Tom Thumb varieties are too
ephemeral to admit of their being recommended for beds ; for groups
in the mixed border they will be found very showy. They can be
easily raised from seed, and, if desired, the seed can be sown where
the plants are to bloom.

Verbenas. — Eight varieties will be quite sufficient for any one
garden, and of the immense number of varieties now in cultivation,
I decidedly prefer the following — Crimson King, very bright scarlet;
Celestial Blue, blue; La Grande Boule de Neiye, white; Spot, pink ;
Laura, rose pink; Karls Kleine, maroon purple; Purple King,
purple ; Nemesis, crimson ; Polly Perlcins, magenta; Victory, scarlet.
Violas. — The best bedders are Perfection, rich bluish mauve,
and Lutea grandiflora, bright yellow. They should be employed
with caution, as they do not do well in many soils and situations.
The latter can be raised from seed sown in the spring.

Ornamental leaved Plants. — A few of the best only, and
such as are likely to be of the greatest service in a small garden, will
be enumerated.

Silvery-leaved. — The variegated geraniums will be included
in this section, to enable the planter to see at a glance what ma-
terials he has available in the same style of colouring.

Creamy Variegation. — Carter's Snowdrop, Daybreak, and
Flower of Spring are all neat yet vigorous growers and very effective.
They usually attain a height ranging from six to nine inches.

Pure White Vartegation. — May Queen, Princess Alexandra,
Miss Kingsbury, and Paul's Snowdrop, are all first-rate and of
medium growth. The two best of the strong-growing variegated
varieties are Albion Cliffs and Bijou.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 8L

Amongst miscellaneous subjects with silvery leafage that are
indispensable, may be mentioned Antennaria tomenlosa, a most valu-
able plant lor edging or for carpeting the surface of beds filled with
succulents, as it does not exceed an inch in height. It is perfectly-
hardy, and can be readily increased by division. Achillea umbellata
is very useful for a narrow edging, but it is difficult to propagate,
and of slow growth. The Centaureas are indispensable. C. ragusina
compacta for edging, C. ragusina for second rows, and C. gymnocarpa
for centres and back rows. These can be raised from seed sown in
the autumn or early iu the spring, or from cuttings taken at the
same periods. Cineraria asplenifolia and C. acanthifolia are both
very useful and effective for edgings and second rows ; but they are
not wanted, excepting for the variety they afford, where there is a
good stock of Centaureas. For very hot and dry positions Stachys
lanata will be found useful, but it is coarse in growth, and should
not be planted where better things will thrive. The last on the list,
and one of the best of its class for amateurs, is Veronica incana.
The growth is very neat, seldom exceeding three inches in height,
and the leaves are of a greyish white hue. It is perfectly hardy, and
requires hardly any attention whatever to keep it in order. By
dividing the tufts in the spring or autumn the stock can be increased
to any extent, and it can also be propagated from seed.

Golden Leaved. — The following are all first-rate in their
respective classes : — Golden Leaved : Yellow Boy, Golden Banner,
Crystal Palace Gem, Golden Fleece, and Jason, for all purposes, and
Little Golden Christine for edging only. Bronze Zonals ■ Kentish
Hero, Mulberry Zone, Crown Prince, Princess of Wales, Mrs. Lewis
Lloyd, and Sybil, all of which are first-rate, the, first-named being
the strongest grower, and therefore the best for large beds. Golden
Zonals : Florence, Louisa Smith, Sophia Dumaresque, Edwinia Fitz-
patrick, and Miss Watson; the latter being especially good for
edging purposes.

Amongst miscellaneous subjects the following are especially good :
Abutilon Thompsoni for centres and large beds; Fuchsia Golden
Fleece and Pyrethrum Golden Feather for edgings. The latter
should be raised from seed sown in a cold frame early in March, and
when strong enough transplanted into its permanent quarters. The
seed may be sown in the beds early in April, and the plants thinued
out to the desired distance apart, but it is not such a good plan as to
sow it iu a cold frame as here directed. Many growers fail in realizing
their expectations of this useful plant through sowing the seed 100
early, and by keeping the plants in a high temperature until they
are two or three inches high.

Dark Leaved. — The Alternantheras are too delicate to be of
much s-ervice to amateurs, but it will not be out of place to mention
that A. magnified and A. paronychioides are the two best and most
valuable for edging. Amaranthus melancholicus ruber is very distinct
and effective, and can be multiplied by means of seeds sown in
spring. The plants require a moderate amount of heat to push them
along, and must be well hardened off previous to being put out in
the beds. When it is necessary to keep them dwarf, they should

VOL. VI. — NO. III. 6

82

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

be stopped early, as they seldom present a satisfactory appearance
when allowed to run up to a great height and then stopped back.

Iresine Lindeni is one of the most valuable acquisitions introduced
for many years past ; it is, in fact, the best dark-leaved bedder we
have. The leaves and stems are of a deep rich sanguineous red, the
growth is all that can be desired, and it will grow freely in cold
situations, where the Coleus will hardly live. This reminds me that
the Coleus must not be omitted, although they are not of much
service to people who have no stove to keep them in during the
winter. "We have tried all the varieties here, and the best for
bedding were Princess of Wales, Emperor Napoleon, and Verstfiaffelti,
all of which have rich chocolate foliage. A great many worthless
sorts have been seut out of late years.

DAHLIAS.

BT JOHN WALSH.

AHLIAS are not, perhaps, so popular as they were
between twenty and thirty years ago, yet they are suf-
ficiently appreciated to justify a friendly chat about
them in these pages. The splendid stands of blooms
staged at the Crystal Palace and provincial exhibitions,
held during the autumn months, afford evidence that they are held
in higher esteem than many florists, especially those that stay at
home, suppose. It is not, however, desirable that I should occupy
space so valuable as these pages in discussing this point, and I will

at once proceed to offer a few useful
hints which, if acted upon, can-
not be otherwise than of great value
to the young beginner. The first
step for the young beginner to take
in the matter will be to procure a
stock. Now the usual period for
buying dahlias is the month of May,
when they can be obtained at the
rate of about four shillings per
dozen. It is, however, a bad time
to buy them, because they are
generally very small, and in any-
thing but a satisfactory condition
for starting away vigorously when
planted out. Instead of buying
young plants in May, I should
strongly advise the purchase of
ground roots at once, and then propagate a stock from them.
They will cost a trifle more ; but as a large number of plants
can be obtained from each, they will be the cheapest in the
end. The cuttings strike very freely, and by ordinary management,

Fig. 1.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

83

strong bouncing plants that will grow away freely at once, and com-
mence to flower early, may be obtained. On the otber hand, when
small, weakly plants are put out, the summer is past before they
can make much progress, and they are cut off by the frost just
as they begin to flower in earnest. These, then, are my reasons for
recommending the purchase of dry roots in preference to young
plants. In the case of new varieties, there is no choice in the
matter, because dry roots cannot be obtained, and the trade cannot
well have the stock ready for distribution before the period men-
tioned above. This, however, is not of much consequence, because
a little nursing when they come to hand will do wonders ; but of
course what would be an easy matter in dealing with two or three
plants, would be practically impossible with the whole stock.

First of all it must be stated that the assistance of a genial
temperature, between 60° and 70°, is indispensable to start the roots
into active growth. It matters not whether they are put into a
greenhouse, vinery, cucumber-frame, or a properly-prepared pro-

/ V

Fig. 2.

-' A \
> A ^

Fig. 3.

pagating pit, provided they have the assistance of a temperature
between the two extremes. Perhaps the best way to start them
would be upon a bed of leaves, covered with an ordinary garden-
frame. Put a layer of soil over the interior, then pack the roots
rather close together, and fill the space between with fine soil. The
soil should be moderately moist when used, and the surface be
within about twelve inches distance of the glass. This will insure a
stocky and firm growth ; but provided they can have a moderate
share of light it is not of much consequence if they are started at a
distance of eight or ten feet from the glass. The manner in which
the roots should be prepared is admirably shown in the accompanying
figures, which the publishers have placed at my disposal for illus-
trating these notes.

In starting the roots in a bed of soil, or in shallow boxes, with a
considerable number in each, cut the ends of the tubers off where
the lines are drawn through them in Fig. 1, and bury them in the
soil to the depth indicated by the dotted line. Those that are to be
started in pots should be trimmed so that they fit nicely, as shown

84 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

in Fig. 2. The tubers will bear a considerable amount of cutting
about without injury. Some growers propagate their stock by
dividing the roots down the centre, with one tuber to each, and
theu shorten the latter to admit of its being put in a rather small pot.
This is a very simple method, but it is not one that can be recom-
mended, excepting when they are required exclusively for home deco-
ration, and the cultivator has only a greenhouse or cold-frame to start
them in. When the young shoots, which start from the crown, have
attained a length of about three inches, as shown in Fig. 3, take them
off with a small heel, and put them either singly in small pots, or
several round the sides of pots of a larger size. When five or six-
inch pots are employed, a large or small "60" should be turned bot-
tom upwards in each, a layer of small crocks then put on regularly,
and the remaining space filled with soil, consisting of at least one-
half either silver or clean river-sand. When the cutting-pots are
prepared as here directed, the danger of the cuttings damping off
is reduced to the lowest possible minimum, because of the compara-
tively small amount of soil employed. Small pots should have a
good layer of crocks in the bottom, and the cuttings be placed in the
middle. Place the cuttings in a warm corner of the house or frame,
and partly plunge the pots in bottom-heat, if available. Water
cautiously, because if kept too wet, a large number will damp off;
but they must be sprinkled overhead often enough to keep them from
flagging. They must also be shaded with thin canvas or paper, when
necessary, and sufficient air admitted to keep the atmosphere pure.
The cuttings produced by roots started in a low temperature, may
be struck under a hand-light, placed in a warm corner of an ordinary
greenhouse.

When nicely rooted, put them singly into three-inch pots, and
after the second or third day, begin to harden them off gradually, and at
the earliest moment possible transfer them to a frame, where they can
be efficiently protected from frost. The tops can be taken off, and
struck if required. It will be necessary to keep rather close for a
few days after the stock is removed to the frame, but the frame
should be well ventilated, as they become hardy enough to be exposed
freely to the air. When sufficiently hardened, draw the lights off
altogether during the day in congenial weather. It is a most excel-
lent plan, although few growers adopt it, to shift the whole stock
into six-inch pots as soon as those in which they were first put are
well filled with roots. The difference at planting time between those
shifted and the others that are kept starving in small pots is in-
credible, and more than sufficient to doubly repay the extra labour.

A complete list of the best of the established sorts was published
in the December number of last year, which buyers cannot do better
than take for their guide. Those who are anxious to speculate in
the new varieties, will find in the recent issue of the " Garden
Oracle " the names and descriptions of the best that will be sent out
in the ensuing spring.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 85

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA AND EUPHORBIA
JACQUINIFLORA.

BY J. W. STLVEE,

Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton, Somerset.

[HE relationship of these plants is close enough to admit
of their being here linked together, without an apology-
being required for the act. Both belong to the same
natural order, Euphorbiacece, bloom at the same time,
and have bracts in one case, and flowers in the other,
of the same bue. To praise them beyond their deserts appears diffi-
cult, because the brilliant display they are capable of producing in
the winter, when nearly all the other stove plants are at rest, is
something wonderful. They are, however, seldom seen in good
condition in gardens of considerable pretensions, and in small
gardens they are very rarely met with at all. This state of things
is, no doubt, mainly owing to a want of knowledge of their require-
ments, and believing this to be the case, I am induced to offer a few
practical remarks on their cultivation. It must, however, be under-
stood that they are penned expressly for the guidance of amateurs,
and others whose knowledge of them is of a limited cbaracter.

Let us first consider the pretty Euphorbia jacqiiiniflor a. This
plant has a natural tendency to become leggy, and if tbe cultivator
does not use his best endeavours to counteract this bad habit, he
will have plants resembling willow wands, surmounted at the top
with a few flowers and leaves. One of the most frequent causes of
their becoming leggy, is due to their being propagated too early, and
another cause is due to their being placed too far from the glass
when in full growth. We usually strike the cuttings here in May, and
the results are such as to show that it is a most suitable period for the
work. Asbort stubby side-shoot should be selected; if not obtainable
otherwise, the tops of the leading branches are taken off. In either
case, insert the cuttings in small 60's, at the rate of three to each,
and put them rather close together in the middle of the pot. They
will strike much quicker if the pots are plunged in bottom-heat, but
it is necessary to add that they will strike very well indeed without
that assistance. Directly they are nicely rooted, place them near
the glass, and do not shade them, excepting in the brightest weather,
as an abundance of light is essential to keep the wood short-jointed,
and to insure its being well matured by the end of the season.
When the pots are well filled with roots, and not before, shift them
into six-inch pots, without dividing or otherwise disturbing them.
They will only require one shift, as this size is quite large enough
for them to flower in, and it is also very convenient if they are
required for table decoration, for which purpose they are well
adapted. Red spider is rather partial to the foliage; therefore, to
prevent the possibility of that pest doing any mischief, give them
the advantage, during the summer, of a moderately moist atmosphere,
and syringe them overhead once or twice a day. A very high

86 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

temperature is not at all necessary, and with the aid of a cucumber-
frame, or house, for the summer season, and an intermediate house
for the winter, they can be grown most satisfactorily.

The compost used here is prepared by well incorporating together
equal parts of turfy loam, fibrous peat, and leaf-mould, with sufficient
silver sand to make it feel gritty to the hand.

Euphorbia splendens is useful to cut from for furnishing flowers
for the hair, or the hand bouquet, during the winter months, but it
is far less useful and brilliant in colour than the former species, and
it must have plenty of room, because the formidable spines with
which the stems are armed will lacerate the leaves of all plants they
come in contact with. The sap of these plants is poisonous.

For the assistance of those who care to possess it, it is necessary
to add that, instead of propagating a fresh stock every year, as
advised for the other species, the plants should be potted on, and
neatly trained to stout stakes fixed in the pots. A couple of speci-
mens will be quite sufficient for a moderate-sized collection of plants,
but E. jacquiniflora should be grown by the dozen wherever a bit of
brilliant colour is appreciated in the winter.

The cultivation of Poinsettia puleherrvma differs somewhat from
that of the Euphorbia, and we will now describe it. The cuttings
should be struck at the same period as advised for the latter ; but,
although they may be grown in the same way, it is decidedly prefer-
able to have only one plant in each pot. In taking the cuttings,
select the strongest shoots, put them singly in small 60's, and
place in a warm corner of the stove, or cucumber or melon- trame.
when well-rooted, shift into five-inch pots ; and, if they grow away
freely, shift, repot, and use pots one or two sizes larger, as may
appear the most desirable. If they do not make very rapid pro-
gress after they are put in five-inch pots, it will not be wise to shift
them again, because, if over-potted, they will present but a sorry
figure at the end of the season.

If the conservatory is lofty, a few cuttings should be struck
earlier, and grown on as vigorously as possible ; for tall specimens
with large whorls of bracts have a wonderfully showy appearance
intermixed with other plants.

The best compost in which to grow Poinsettias that I have yet
tried is one consisting of two-thirds turfy loam and a third part of
equal proportions of leaf-mould and well-decayed cow-dung. A
liberal sprinkling of sand must be added, and the pots well drained.
In summers like those of 1868 and 1870, the plants may be placed
upon a bed of coal-ashes, made up in the open, for about two months.

Both the Poinsettia and Euphorbia, as they go out of bloom,
should be packed rather close together in a warm, dry corner, and
very little water administered to the roots, as a long season of rest
is most essential. After they have been kept dry for a short time,
prune them back, and start into growth about the middle of April.
When the young growth is about an inch in length, turn the plants
out of the pots, shake nearly all the soil from the roots, and repot
in pots of the same size as those from which they were taken out of.
Train out the growth, as it becomes necessary, with a few neat

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 87

stakes. The safest time for twisting the growth of the Poinsettia
is just as it begins to harden, which is usually about the end of
August. The plants intended for furnishing a supply of cuttings
should not be shaken out until after the cuttings are secured, and
not then utiles* the stock is short, because it is much belter to
throw them away.

MAIZE, ITS USE AND CULTURE.

BY THE BEV. TH. C. BREHAUT,

Of Richmond House, Guernsey.

[T the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society in
December, 1870, Mr. Brehaut exhibited a large and
interesting collection of Maize, grown in his garden in
Guernsey. It was accompanied by an interesting paper
on its uses and culture, of which we give an abstract: —
An experience of three very dissimilar seasons has been gained
since 1867. A certain number of varieties have been discarded,
either as too small, too coarse, or as ripening at too late a period of
the season to make them generally serviceable. It was to be expected
that the sorts which ripened the earliest would become most in
demand, but there were other conditions to be fulfilled before Maize
could be able to hold its ground against so many new and known
vegetables. It was not so much a variety which should serve for
cattle, or poultry, or even for grinding into flour, which was required,
for 3uch are now commonly imported more cheaply — at least, so it
seems at present — than they can be grown in our climate; but it
was sought to popularize the manner of eating Maize so common in
the States of America, and in other regions of the world (including
even Southern Europe), as " green corn," i.e., in a semi-ripened con-
dition, when the grains had acquired the consistency and size of good
Marrowfat peas. The addition of a table vegetable of this delicious
and nutritious nature — the food of millions of the human race — and
yet, for want of experience of the sorts adapted to our climate, so
strangely unappreciated here, seemed of no inconsiderable import-
ance, the more so as it ripened in the late autumn, reproducing then
the lost flavours of the early pea and of the asparagus. For this the
ordinary yellow Maize is not suited, so that its cidture becomes of
little value. But the collection here exhibited claims not only to be
the most complete which has probably ever been presented in
Europe, but it also shows varieties which greatly excel the Maize
known in this country and in France in size and in flavour, while
they still fulfil the special conditions required in earliness. More
than this, these ears are grown from seeds acclimated by three varied
reasons in the Channel Islands, and are even immediately sprung
from seeds of plants growing in the damp and sunless season of 1869,
which plants were prostrated to the earth when at their fullest and
most critical season of growth, on Sept. 12th, under the weight of a

S8 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

hurricane of 55 lb. pressure per square foot. The perfectly ripened
specimens exhibited attest the vitality of Maize when treated with
common care. A few observations must now be made on the

Uses of Maize. — It would be without interest here to speak of
the numerous purposes to which this most valuable plant is put
when in a dried state, in tropical regions. The drought of past
seasons shows the need of adding to our resources, if possible, what-
ever green fodder can be grown. There are certain kinds of Maize
better adapted by their growth than others to fulfil this object, being
hardy and rapid in increase, and at the same time abounding in sac-
charine juices, which animals will devour greedily. Even the stalks
when hard can be utilized by slicing them, so that there is really no
waste. Mention having been made of these varieties in the French
scientific journals, a pressing request was sent here for a large quan-
tity of seed for Brittany, there to be cut down and used as forage
during the drought.

Cultuee. — The seeds should be sown in common raisin-boxes
during April — early in the month in the south, and later in the north
of Eugland. In the Channel Islands they were sown in boxes very
early in April, and planted out three weeks after. These boxes
should be placed in a cool vinery, orchard-house, or pit, and the
plants hardened off before planting. This would be best in May,
earlier or later according to the season or locality, which a short
experience would decide. The risk of the young plants is common
to other vegetables — that of suffering from spring frosts ; a little
protection would obviate all this. But this season Mr. Dancer, of
Cbiswick, we are told, sowed a quantity of Maize in the open ground
in March. It was cut down by the frost, sprang up again from the
root, and yielded a heavy crop.

By the end of July our Maize plants were already seven feet high,
and were then secured from high winds by stout stakes at intervals,
and thin cords stretched between them, to which the rows were easily
tied. Not being able to give waterings, which materially aid the
growth of a plant which luxuriates in the rich alluvial valleys of
tropical countries, we had planted in shallow trenches filled with
manure, and three inches of soil above it. These trenches retained
the casual showers, and were gradually earthed in. As for celery,
the manure kept the roots perfectly fresh, and two slight waterings
of liquid manure were given during the very dry summer. This
attention is not greater than is always given to peas and other
vegetables. Failures are traceable to a neglect either of some, or
even of all, of these means.

It is not quite so easy to ascertain the exact time to take the ears
as "green corn" for the table. A day or two makes considerable
change in their consistency. When as large and as hard as Marrow-
1 it peas, from twenty to thirty minutes' boiling is enough. Serve
with fresh butter to spread over them, and they are thus ready. All
the uses made of peas for soups and stews are common to green
Maize. The ears can also be roasted before the fire. When dry,
these fine white varieties would produce good flour for pastry, etc.

Maize, in our climate, requires five months to mature the seeds

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 89

for sowing, being one month more than in California. Some sorts
ripened here in August. The stalks reached to ten feet, a height
only excelled in rich tropical soils. Where several sprang from the
same root, the ears ripened soonest. Experiments were made in
hybridizing, with some results, and also in mutilating the male
panicle of flowers, with a view to increase the size of the ear. After
several generations of mutilated plants had been experimented upon,
it was found that the ears were increased sensibly in size. The pro-
duce of seed was at the rate of ninety-five bushels the acre, gathered
as it was, not from selected plants, but from numerous varieties,
some being too small.

Kemarks on the Varieties. — The pure white Maize from
Georgia is the most delicate for table use ; it ripened this season
at the end of September, and is an early sort, and the most valuable
in every respect. The Improved Common Yellow and the Giant
Ked are also good. It remains only to add that seed for sowing can
be obtained in gardens in warmer districts, and always from such
places as the Channel Islands ; while Maize, to be eaten green in the
autumn, can be grown anywhere with common attention. The same
may be said of its use for foliage.

HOME- GEO VN LILT OF THE YALLEY.

BY A MARKET GROWER.

jfLTHOUGH the Lily of the Valley is a favourite amongst
all classes, and has been cultivated both in pots and
in the open ground from time almost immemorial, it
appears that its culture, speaking in a general manner,
is not well understood. Even at public exhibitions it
is seldom that more than sixty per cent, of the plants are shown in
a satisfactory condition. They are either all flowers or all foliage,
instead of having equal proportions of both. The causes of these
defects are not far to seek, and can be easily explained. The
deficiency of foliage is due to their having no new roots, and to
forcing them in too much heat, and the deficiency of flowers is due
to the bulbs being immature. It is not, however, my intention to
say much about their management in pots, as I am anxious to deal
more especially with their cultivation prior to their being potted up
for forcing. The reason for my being desirous of directing especial
attention to this part of the subject is to show that we are not only
independent of the Dutch growers for the bulbs, but that more
satisfactory results can be obtained from those grown in the culti-
vator's garden, because they can then be potted at the right moment.
As a large grower for Covent Garden, I find it more profitable to
grow my own bulbs, although the rent paid for the ground is simply
t normous. Surely, then, those who have a garden attached to their
residence would find it more economical to grow their own bulbs,
because, excepting a few shillings for manure, they cost practically

90 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

nothing. Even supposing the cost in each case to be the same, the
balance would be in favour of those grown at home, because after
the foliage has died down they do not make any roots until they
are in bloom and the leaves full grown. Hence the leaves and
flowers have to be produced entirely with the aid of the nourish-
ment laid up in the bulbs the previous season, and if they are
pushed along too fast, especially those started early, they produce
flowers but no foliage. It is very easy to maintain a regular supply
of strong bulbs for forcing if a batch is planted every season.

The situation selected for the beds should be moderately open
and cool ; but they are by no means particular, provided they are
not planted in a south or north border, for the first is too hot and
the second too cold. The ground set apart for their culture should
be determined upon at once, and liberally nourished with equal parts
of leaf-mould and partly-decayed stable manure. The dressing of
manure should not be less than sis inches in thickness. Then
trench or dig the bed to a depth of about eighteen or twenty-four
inches, and regularly incorporate the manure with the soil, and
leave the surface as rough as it is possible to leave it. This
work should be done early in the autumn where the soil is
rather heavy. It is too late to talk about autumn trenching
now, but it is necessary to say that in stirring soil deep in the
spring, the bottom spit must not be brought to the surface.
Presently, when the plants, now in the conservatory, go out of
flower, place them in cold frame and gradually harden oft", but do
not expose to frost ; and in the next paragraph we will consider
what must be done with them.

About the middle of May dig the bed lightly with a fork, and if
the leaf-mould can be spared spread a moderate layer over the sur-
face previously, to assist them to become established quickly. When
the bed is quite ready, turn them out of the pots, divide carefully,
and plant the crowns either singly or in small tufts according as
they can be divided without breaking them about. The rows should
be fifteen inches apart, and the crowns twelve inches apart in the
rows. Water liberally, and then cover the surface of the bed with
short grass, partly-decayed leaves, or manure, or whatever loose
material can be spared for the purpose. A thorough soaking of
water once a week for the first four weeks, if the weather happens
to be dry, will be of immense service, but afterwards they will be
able to take care of themselves. They must be allowed to remain
in the bed until July of the second year after they are planted ; but
by planting a batch every year, a regular succession can be main-
tained after the first lot. Some growers recommend planting the
crowns in clumps of five each, but it is certainly not a good plan,
for with the same care and attention I could never obtain such
finely-developed crowns as I can when they are planted singly.

In July of the second year after planting, prepare a proper
number of six or eight-inch pots by crocking them carefully, and
sufficient compost by mixing together three parts mellow turfy
loam, and a part each of old hot-bed manure and leaf-mould, and the
first dull moist day after the middle of the mouth lift them carefully

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 91

and pot as quickly as possible. Eemove the weakest bulbs tbat are
not likely to flower from eaoh clump, and then put the latter rather
closely together round the outside of the pots, as they do much bet-
ter than when put in the centre. The number of clumps in each
pot must be regulated by their size, but generally speaking four for
the smaller and six for the larger size will be quite sufficient. When
the potting is completed, place them in a shady position, water
liberally to settle the soil, and ^then sprinkle the foliage slightly once
a-day to assist them in becoming established at once. They should
be kept in the shade until the roots have taken possession of the
new soil, which can be readily ascertained by turning one of them
out of the pot in a careful manner, and then they should be removed
to a position where they will have full exposure to the heat of the
sun.

The stock potted in the summer as advised above will fill the
pots with fine healthy roots before the foliage has died down, and be
in grand condition for forcing early. On the other hand, those
potted after the leaves have perished will not make a single root
until they have flowered, and they will have to rely exclusively for
sustenance on the food laid up in the bulbs previous to their being
taken from the open ground. The only matter to which special
importance is attached in connection with summer potting is to put
them into the pots immediately they are taken up, and to keep them in
the shade with occasional sprinklings overhead, until established.
The offsets should be planted for stock in preference to putting out
plants that have been forced. They must of course be planted
without delay, and well watered occasionally, and for the first week
or so they should be shaded by means of a mat placed over them
during the day, or a few branches of evergreens, or spruce fir,
fixed permanently in the ground so as to screen from the sunshine,
and they may be allowed to remain until the end of August. By
following the directions here laid down, the most inexperienced
amateur may make himself entirely independent of the Dutch
grower, and have a profusion of those beautiful flowers throughout
the winter and spring.

London Gardeners in the Olden Time. — The following may be interesting,
as illustrative of the manners of the gardeners in the olden time. In 1345 (19
Edw. HI.) ** the gardeners of the earls, barons, and bishops, and of the citizens of
the City of London," petitioned the Mayor, John Hammond, that they might
" stand in peace in the same place where they had been wont in times of old, in
front of the church of St. Austin, at the site of the gate of St. Paul's Churchyard,
there to sell the garden produce of their said masters, and make their profit. But
the Mayor, finding that " the scurrility, clamour, and nuisance of these traders
and their servants there selling pods, Cherries, vegetables, and other wares to their
trade pertaining, daily disturbed " the priests in the church of St. Austin, well as
the reputable inhabitants, ordered that henceforth the gardeners " should have
as their place the space between the south gate of the churchyard of the said
church and the garden wall of the Friars Preachers (Black Friars) at Baynard's
Castle." — City Press.

92 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

SWEET PEAS.

WEET Peas are so ornamental and effective in appear-
ance when in bloom, and yield such a profusion of
blossoms for furnishing vases, etc., during the summer
months, that they cannot well be grown too exten-
sively. We are fond of having vases of cut flowers in
all the principal rooms when we can obtain the flowers, and we
certainly find the sweet peas our very best friends during the prin-
cipal part of the season. In reality they require no skill to grow
them well, yet many amateurs fail in cultivating them satisfactorily.
They are generally treated as half-hardy annuals, and are conse-
quently short-lived, and do not continue in bloom so long as they
otherwise would do. For many years we used to raise them in
pots in heat and plant them out when about six inches in height ;
but at last the demand upon our frames became so great that we
determined to sow the seed out of doors and let them take care of
themselves. We were at first afraid that the spring frosts would
injure them, but of course our fears were groundless, because they
are quite as hardy as the hardiest of the peas grown for culinary
purposes. We now make two sowings, one in November for
flowering early, and the other in March to succeed them. Where,
from the unfavourable character of the soil, it is not considered
desirable to sow peas of any kind in the autumn, the first sowing
may be made the first week in February, or as soon afterwards as
the weather and the state of the soil will permit.

There is another point in their culture worthy of mention, and
that is, to insure a continuous supply of flowers during the longest
period possible, they must be grown in comparatively rich soil. We
usually have a few clumps down the middle of a mixed border, at a
distance of about ten feet apart, and a long row in the kitchen-
garden expressly to cut from. We have entirely given up planting
them in the narrow borders in front of the shrubberies, because the
roots of the shrubs draw so much of the moisture and goodness out
of the soil, that after a week or two of dry and hot summer weather
the leaves begin to turn yellow and the flowers to cease to make their
appearance. In many gardens the shrubbery border is selected for
growing a few sweet peas, and consequently they are considered to
be short-lived. The soil cannot be too rich, and we sow those in the
kitchen-garden in trenches prepared in much the same manner as
for celery. We first have thrown out the top spit on one side of
the trench, and the man then breaks up the soil underneath to a
depth of not less than eighteen inches, mixing with it as he proceeds
not less than six inches of manure. When that part of the work is
completed, the soil thrown out of the trench is returned to it,
when the peas are to be sown in the autumn ; but for those sown in
the spring a portion only is returned, so that the surface of the soil
where they are sown shall be two or three inches below the general
level. When sown in a shallow trench they can be watered very
easily, and the roots are not so soon affected by dry or hot weather.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 93

A layer of short grass or other vegetable refuse may be placed on
each side of the rows, to keep the soil cool, and cheek the rapid
evaporation of moisture which usually occurs in hot weather.

A small portion at one eud of the row, or a single clump in the
mixed border, should be set apart for furnishing a supply of seed
for the following season, and the seed-pods regularly removed from
all the others, because nothing puts a stops to the growth and the
supply of flowers so quickly as allowing the pods to remain. It
shortens their flowering season at least six week or two months.

The sorts grown are, Invincible Black, Invincible Scarlet, Painted
Lady, and the Common White. Upon a trellis, in a rather secluded
part of our garden, we have The Everlasting Pea, Latliyrus latifolius,
and L. latifolius albus, which also flowers very freely. They
occasion us hardly any labour to keep them in order. In fact, the
only attention they receive is, thinning the young growth out a
little, removing the seed-pods, and cutting them down in the
autumn. In return for a little labour they spring up every season,
and present us with flowers of surpassing beauty for a lengthened
period during the summer. Harriet Tetterell.

THE GAEDEN GUIDE EOE MAECH.

Elower Garden. — The planting of trees and shrubs must be
finished off at once. Clear out shrubberies by cutting away the
dead wood, and raking up the leaves. Herbaceous plants ought to
have attention this month ; the borders should have a slight dressing
of thoroughly decayed manure, and be carefully pricked over with a
fork. Plants required to be increased may now be taken up and
divided, and replanted ; where they are growing wild it is a good
plan to take the whole lot up, manure and trench the border, and
re-arrange them. These plauts should have annual attention, and
not be allowed to smother each other, as is generally the case. Pinks,
Picotees, Carnations, Pansies, Hollyhocks, Phlox, and Pentstemons,
that have been preserved in cold frames during the winter, should
be planted in their respective quarters, about the middle or end of
the month, if the ground is in proper condition fur their reception.

Kitchen Garden. — This is the most important season in the
whole year in this department, for the kitchen supplies are ruled
throughout the whole year by the way the operations are conducted
now. Continue to turn up every quarter directly it becomes vacant.
In light warm soils get in the main crops of Potatoes towards the
end of the month. In cold damp soils, the middle of next month
will be preferable. Sow and make new beds of Asparagus. Sow
for main crops Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cardoons,
Carrots, Cauliflowers, Chervil, Leeks, Lettuce, Onions, Parsley,
Parsnips, Peas, Eadishes, Savoys, Scorzonera, Spinach, and Turnips.
Plant Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes ; clear the former of dead
leaves and protecting material. Make fresh plantations of Horse-
radish, Ehubarb, and Shallots, if not already done.

94 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Fruit Garden. — Pruning and training must be completed, and
grafting set about in earnest. "Wall-trees coming into bloom must
be protected. Nets, tiffany, or fir branches can be used for pro-
tecting purposes ; the first two are the best.

Conservatory. — This is a trying time to the occupants of this
structure, as the outbursts of bright sunshine are so generally accom-
panied with cold, keen, drying winds, that it is impossible to venti-
late freely enough to keep the temperature to its proper height.
Shading must be resorted to, or the plants in flower will soon lose
their freshness and beauty. Air, however, must be freely admitted
when the weather will admit of its being done, as nearly the whole
of the hard-wooded plants will now be making their growth, and
unless they have plenty of air the young wood will want that firm-
ness which is so essential to an abundance of bloom. Camellias
growing out of shape should be pruned and placed in a nice genial
growing atmosphere, and well syringed with tepid water, to induce
them to break well. Pelargoniums of all kinds that need a shift
must have it at once, or not at all; plants that have filled the pots
with roots will be benefited by alternate waterings of weak manure
water. Primulas and Cyclamens going out of flower must be placed
in a light airy place to ripen their seed, if it is intended to save any.
Shift all plants that need it as fast as they go out of flower. Plants
coming from the frames should have a smoking before they are
brought into the greenhouse, as there are many plants now in bloom,
and flowers of all kinds receive considerable injury from smoke.

Stove. — Shading must now be resorted to during bright flashes
of sunshine, as it is impossible to give sufficient air to keep the tem-
perature down to its proper level without injuring the plan's. To
maintain a moist growing atmosphere, sprinkle the paths and walls
twice a-day, and give the plants a good syringing overhead once,
with the exception of those in flower, which must be kept dry.

Forcing. — Air-giving must be attended to with care during the
whole of this month, in all tbe departments. Vines in flower must
have rather a drier atmosphere, but not so parching as is generally
advised. Disbud, train, and thin out the bunches as required. After
the fruit is set, keep a thoroughly moist atmosphere, and paint the
pipes with sulphur to prevent red spider making its appearance.
Slightly increase the temperature, and stop one or two eyes beyond
the bunch. Peaches and Nectarines, as they go out of bloom, must
be well syringed to clear them of the dead flowers ; also raise the
temperature to 50\ Plums and Cherries will require plenty of air,
and moisture at the root. Strawberries as they begin to colour
should have less water, and be exposed more freely to tbe light and
air. Sow Melon seed, and plant out as soon as strong enough.

Pits and Frames. — Auriculas, Pansies, Carnations, and others
of the same class, must have plenty of air. Propagate Verbenas,
Lobelias, Iresene, Heliotropes, and Petunias. Bedding Calceolarias
should be turned out into a bed of rich soil, about four inches apart,
and covered with old light straw hurdles, or mats.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 05

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

An Old Subscriber. — The plants mentioned would do very well, and would cost
from six to nine shillings per dozen, according to the sorts. Tliey should be
planted as quickly as possible. The answer to the second question is No.

JE. O. H. — You cannot do anything to prevent the occurrence referred to.
The cause of the flowers not expanding is entirely due to the roots not being in
a healthy condition. In thinning the buds, leave the most prominent, and remove
the others.

Night-scented Stock. — IE. T. O., M.D., Orosvenor Square. — Seed of the two
species mentioned by our correspondent is offered in the catalogues of Mr. B. 8.
Williams, Upper Holloway, Messrs. Barr and Sugden, 12, King Street, Covent
Garden, and several other metropolitan firms, therefore you ought not to experience
any difficulty in obtaining a supply.

Veronica Candida. — John Cooper, Dresden, Staffordshire. — Seed is offered by
Mr. J. J. Marriott, Highfield Nm-series, Matlock, and it can, we believe, he obtained
of a few other nurserymen. Plants are plentiful in all good nurseries. Seed of
the other subjects named cannot, so far as we are aware, be purchased, but plants
can be obtained at a very low rate. The Veronica you mention is a different thing
altogether.

F. K. — Many thanks for your communication. We regret not having room for
it this month. The following are four of the most suitable climbers for the position
mentioned : — Tacsonia Van Volxemi, Passiflora Imperatrice Eugenie, Cobea scandeus
variegata, and Kennedya coccinea, or Hoya carnosa.

Early Forcing. — S. S. — In proportion to the heat should be the amount of
moisture, as also the circulation of air. We infer from your statement that the
atmospheric moisture is much deficient. Is there, however, any source of bottom-
heat which produces atmospheric moisture ? Roses, and, in fact, most shrubs
emerging from a state of partial torpidity or rest, are very averse to what is termed
dry heat. Our advice is to use as much atmospheric moisture in the afternoon, in
combination with a circulation of air, as will deposit dew on the leaves. A much
less amount may be used from daylight until noon. Plunge gesnerias in bottom-
heat, and treat them as achimenes. Use a little water, increasing it with increased
vigour. Your temperature is rather too low ; if sunshine occurs, run the glass up
to 75° or even 80°, provided there is a little motion in the air. A cold greenhouse
will suffice for camellias.

Chrysanthemums. — B. J. — Cuttings are made from January to April, and for
some purposes as late as June or July. Those made in February and March usually
produce the finest plants, and of necessity they are then struck in heat, which must
be moderate, and the cuttings must be in full daylight. In stopping, the point of
the shoot is pinched out with the fingers ; but if a shoot takes the lead and goes
ahead of all the rest, it may be cut back two or three or more joints, and made a
cutting of.

Primula Seed. — W. S. — It is time now to sow the first pinch of seed. The
surest way to proceed is to nearly fill the pans with manure that has been two years
rotted and then sifted. Sprinkle the seed upon the surface, and do not cover the
s^ed with soil, but lay over the pan a sheet of glass smeared with clay to render it
nearly opaque. If the soil becomes dry before the seed sprouts, put the pans in a
vessel containing one or two inches depth of water till the soil is quite moistened. A
warm house or hot-bed is the proper place for the seed-pans. As soon as the plants
appear, remove the glass, and soon as possible pot them off separately.

Artillery Plant.— Miss Mary. — The plant is Pilea allitrichoides, or Pistol
plant. It is a native of the West Indies, and a very elegant and interesting subject
for stove and greenhouse culture. We have frequently used it to furnish indoor
cases, for which purpose it must be grown to a good size in pots, and be plunged in
the place it is to occupy, and it will continue to grow and bloom from May to
October in the temperature of a dwelling-room. The minute, fern-like leaves and
reddish pins' -head sort of blossoms, fit it well for association with fine-leaved plants.
It is named the Artillery or Pistol plant, because, when sprinkled with water on a
hot, sunny day, the flowers emit little puffs of pollen like discharges of smoke from
fire-arms.

96 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Salsafy. — B. W. B. — This excellent root is not sufficiently appreciated, or It
would be much more commonly grown. Any ordinary good sandy loam will suit
it, if deeply dug some time ago, and laid up in ridges to the frost. In the event of
having to prepare ground for it now, trench two feet deep, and put manure at the
bottom of the trench. Sow in April, in drills fifteen inches apart; when the plants
are up, thin to six inches in poor soil, and to nine inches in rich soil. The roots
are usually taken up in November, and stored the same as carrots ; but some culti-
vators leave a few in the ground for the sake of the shoots they produce in the
spring, and which, if cooked before they become stringy, are by many highly
esteemed. To convert the root of salsafy into vegetable oyster, it must first be
boiled till tender, then be mashed up with butter, and lastly be fried a nice brown.
It is then said to resemble oyster patties. It is certainly a very tasty dish, without
any reference to its imitation of oyster.

Planting a Grove. — Sir G. 8. — In the planting of a grove, a great variety
of trees is not desirable ; indeed, we should consider a variety fatal to the one-
ness of effect, which is the best and principal feature of a grove. One kind
should predominate, whether oak, beech, alder, or what else, and there are not
many kinds of trees suited for forming a grove. Regular planting, too, should
be avoided. A grove must not be made to imitate an avenue, nor should it be
a coppice or a thicket. Over some spaces the trees should be dotted with some
degree of uniformity ; in some others they should stand far apart, to allow of
open spaces between, and from these open spaces should be seen some bold
rounded groups, well defined, differing in outline, and in some one direction
thickening together into a mass, to give deep shade and a rich wall of leafage.
A few distinct kinds towering up above the general mass will improve the sky-
line, and prevent the insipidity that results from tameness, but this must be
sparingly and cautiously done, for repetition is an essential feature of a grove,
which it is impossible to plant as an arboretum.

Ivy Edgings. — A New Subscriber. — The tree-ivies would make good edgings in
time in skilful hands, but the trailing kinds are best, and there is none to equal the
common Irish grandifs, if a rich effect is required to be produced quickly. To make
one of these edgings, a good breadth must be allowed, the ground must be deeply
duo-, and if poor, manure must be added; then the lines should be pegged out for
the planting. Whatever sort it is intended to use, the best way to obtain the
plants is at some good nursery, where usually plants three or four years old, with
long rods, may be found in pots. These carefully turned out, and pegged down,
make a good edging at once. They may be a yard apart if the edging is from one to
two feet wide ; but if wider, two feet apart would be better, because a thick growth
is required, which necessitates cutting back the longest shoots. Any of the strong-
growing green-leaved varieties of the English ivies may be used to advantage, as
they make fine edgings. Still more beautiful— in fact, remarkably beautiful— are
the variegated ivies. In preparing the ground for the variegated kinds, do not
apply any manure ; they are more beautiful in a poor than a rich soil. As these are
slow growers, plant them a foot apart.

House Case. — J. B. G. — The following will be found very useful, namely : —
Andromeda flortbunda, Aucuba limbata, A. foemina viridis, Evergieen Tree Box,
Ligustrum japonicum, Osmanthus ilicifolius, Pernettya mncronata, Raphiolepis,
Skimmia japonica, S. oblata ovata, Laurestinus. For the back plant Hedera helix
minor, and H. h. digitata. The demands upon our time are too great to admit of
our answering correspondents through the post.

C. H., Hath. — Cineraria acanthifolia would be a giod substitute, but the seed is
rather expensive to purchase in quantity. C. maritima would also do, and the seed
is cheaper. If a golden plant would be admissible we should recommend Pyrethrum
Golden Feather, because of its effectiveness and the ease with which a stock can be
raised. Ageratums will flower the same year if sown early, as also will Delphinium
formosum. The Dianthuses are useful for bedding purposes, but the other plants
named are not. Prune the Datura at once.

Planting Potatoes. — J. W. — The sooner the heavy ground is dug the better ;
let it be laid up ridge and trench by a good workman. At planting time, instead of
dibbing in the sets, lay them in the trenches and throw the soil from the ridges down
upon them. This plan produces a well-pulverized and aerated seed-bed. Of course
the trenches should be as far apart, or half as far apart, as the rows are to be.

NEW VERBENAS.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 97

ECKEORD'S VERBENAS.

( With Coloured Illustration of six 2feio Varieti"s.)

OR several years past Verbenas have not enjoyed a large
share of popularity among flower gardeners, yet in no
other period has the advance towards perfection in the
size, colour, and form of the flowers been so great as it
has been during the last four or five years. This im-
provement is, in the main, due to the labours of Mr. C. J. Perry,
Castle Bromwich, and of Mr. H. Eckford, the able head gardener to
the Earl of Radnor, Coleshill House. Notwithstanding the unpo-
pularity of this flower, these two earnest cultivators proceeded with
the work of improvement, but in different ways. Mr. Perry devoted
his energies to raising varieties with flowers of the finest form and
colour, without reference to habit, or their adaptability for flower
garden decoration. Mr. Eckford, on the other hand, has paid especial
attention to the habit and constitution, whilst, at the same time,
labouring hard to combine with a good constitution and habit, flowers
of fine form, and possessing colours that are not easily affected by
brilliant sunshine and other uncongenial weather. That he has been
eminently successful there can be no doubt, for many of the varieties
raised by him, and which have flowers of grand form, occupy a high
position amongst the best of the bedders yet sent out.

As Mr. Eckford has contributed a short paper on the manage-
ment of Verbenas for flower-garden decoration, it is quite unneces-
sary to allude to the cultural details here, but we are bound to say
that the views expressed by Mr. Eckford with reference to the chief
causes of failure coincide entirely with our own experience ; at the
same time we are anxious to say that with a liberal course of manage-
ment, L'uch as that recommended by Mr. Eckford, failures would be
remarkably rare, and the Verbena would once more occupy the
high position in the flower garden to which it is now so thoroughly
entitled.

The varieties here figured are a portion of a batch of fine
novelties, selected from the Coleshill seed bed, that are to be sent
out by Mr. John Keynes, Castle Street, Salisbury, on the first of
next month. "We have much pleasure in figuring these varieties,
because of their high excellence, and for the purpose of showing the
immense improvement that has been effected in these useful flowers
within the last three or four years. The names and colours of the
varieties here figured are aa follows : —

1. Peter Williams.— Deep scarlet ; eye pure white, large, and
circular ; the pips large in size and of good form; the trusses large
and bold. One of the showiest and most valuable of the group, and
likely to prove a first-rate bedder.

2. Blue Bell. — Well deserving of its name, for the colour is of a
peculiarly bright rich shade of cobalt blue ; pips large, stout in sub-
stance, very smooth, and of graud form, with large circular white
eye ; trusses large, globular, and well proportioned. A very beauti-

VOL. VI. — NO. IT. 7

98 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ful variety, which deserves appreciation as much for its distinct
colouring as for the superb form and finish of the flowers.

3. Grand Monarch. — Very brilliant, rich deep orange-scarlet ;
centre deep crimson. Although there are many good scarlet-
flowered varieties, this is a most valuable acquisition, because of
the grand form and perfect finish of the flowers, in addition to its
many other good qualities.

4. George Peabody. — Clear bright plum colour ; eye pure white ;
pips large and smooth, and of the finest form ; truss large and bold ;
very distinct and most effective in appearance. A valuable variety
for exhibition purposes, which will hold a high place amongst Ver-
benas many years hence.

5. Hose Imperial. — Delicate but bright rose-pink, of the same
hue as that of the flowers of the well-known Christine geranium ;
pip and truss large, smooth, and of grand form. A decided acqui-
sition, and will, there can be no doubt, be much appreciated by
growers of this class of flowers, whether for culture in pots for the
conservatory, or for exhibition, or for cut flowers.

6. Mrs. Dodds. — Tint clear bright flesh, of a peculiar delicate
hue ; centre rich crimson ; pips and truss large, and of the finest
form ; a most distinct and beautiful variety for all purposes, but
more especially for associating with those of a darker hue.

The other varieties to be sent out at the same time as the above
are : Miss Charlotte Mildmay, clear blush, with deep pink centre ;
pips very large, stout, and smooth, and well arranged in the truss.
Mrs. Knight, pale rose ; pips and truss large, and of grand form.
Lavender Queen, bright clear lavender; pips large, and stout, and
smooth, and arranged so as to form a bold striking truss ; a superb
bedder.

We regret very much that our artist, usually so truthful, has
failed in reproducing the peculiar rich and striking colours of the
varieties here figured, for in every case the colours of the flowers
are far superior to what they are shown in the plate. The plate
must, therefore, be taken as illustrative of the grand form and
superb finish of the flowers, and as suggestive of the colours. The
descriptions are taken from notes made when the flowers came
before us upon several occasions during the summer and autumn of
last year, and, therefore, no difficulty with respect to the colours,
will be experienced by intending purchasers.

Of the older varieties of Mr. Eckford's raising, the under-
mentioned can be recommended, with every degree of confidence,
namely : Eclipse, crimson scarlet, fine bedder. Harry 'Eclcford,
deep crimson, white eye. Pearl, fine white. Sensation, deep rose,
with lemon eye, surrounded with a ring of crimson. Ace of Trumps,
rosy salmon, crimson centre. Conspicuous, crimson, with white eye.
Mrs. Stuart Low, pure white, grand bedder. Lofty Eckford, rich
plum, with lemon eye, fine and distinct, and a good bedder.
Bravo, clear delicate rose. Polly Perh'ns, cerise suffused with
salmon, fine bedder. Isa Key, rose shaded violet. The Cure, rose
purple, with crimson centre. Imperial Purple, the best of all the
purple varieties, both for beddiug and pot culture. Coleshill, bril-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 99

liant scarlet, with lemon eye. Fanny Martin, clear rose. Earl of
Radnor, rosy scarlet, with pale lemon eye. The above, with the
new varieties, would form a very nice collection for a young begin-
ner, and as the price is only a trifle more than charged for the com-
monest sorts, there is no valid reason why they should not be grown
in preference to varieties that are now, comparatively speaking,
worthless.

With respect to the price and other particulars respecting both
the new and old varieties, we must refer our readers to Mr. Keynes.

NOTES ON VERBENAS.

BY HENRY ECKFOKD,

Head Gardener to the Earl of Radnor, Colesliill House, Coleshill, Berks.

HE principal reason for my devoting special attention to
the improvement of the Verbena, was to see what could
be done in raising a race strong enough in constitution
to carry them through uncongenial weather, whilst at
the same time possessing flowers of a large size, fine
form, and rich and effective in colour ; but how far my efforts have
been successful it is not for me to say. There can, however, be no
harm in iny stating, that from the first my aim has been to vindicate
the claims of this flower to an important and prominent position
in the flower garden, and to prove that with proper management,
failures would be exceptional instead of being, as unfortunately
they are at present, the rule.

The causes of failures of verbenas in the open air are not far to
seek, and can be easily explained. The most frequent cause is
undoubtedly putting out plants that have been starving in small
pots several months previous to the planting seasons. It is a most
grievous mistake to propagate the stock for bedding early in the
season, although it is generally supposed that early propagation is
necessary to secure strong healthy plants by planting-time. When
struck early, and necessarily kept starving in pots for several months,
the constitution becomes impaired so much that they are unable to
resist, with any degree of success, the attacks of red spider, thrips,
and mildew — three most formidable enemies they have to contend
with. Erom close observation extending over many years, I am
convinced that the month of April is quite early enough for striking
verbenas intended for bedding purposes. The tops of the healthy
shoots should be taken off in the early part of the ensuing month,
struck in a brisk bottom-heat, and potted into store pots, and care-
fully hardened off; these planted out as early in May as the weather
will permit, will grow away freely, and the beds in which they are
planted will soon become a blaze of colour. The compost in which
they are potted should be rich and nourishing, and for that reason
nothing suits them better thau a mixture of good turfy loam and

100 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

decayed hot-bed manure, mixed together, at the rate of two parts ot
the former to one of the latter, and a sprinkling of sand added to
keep the compost open. Plants planted in a compost prepared as
here directed will present a different appearance at planting-time to
those which, according to a general, but very objectionable custom,
are put in the refuse soil from the potting bench.

Verbenas are not at all particular as to the position in which
they are planted, provided it is moderately open. If there is any
difference in the positions most congenial to a healthy growth,
preference must be given to an open situation, where the plants
wrould be slightly screened from the rays of the midday sun. We
plant here in all situations with the most satisfactory results, and
there is no occasion for cultivators to trouble themselves much about
the selection of the most favourable situations.

The most suitable soil is a rich loam, rather inclined to be heavy
than otherwise, but they will do well in almost all soils, however
light, if they are liberally enriched with manure some time during
the winter season. In very light soils the surface of the beds should
be mulched during the summer with a layer of half-rotten stable or
other manure, to keep the surface comparatively cool, and to check
excessive evaporation from the soil. The beds should also have a
few thorough soakings of water during a period of drought. If it
is intended to exhibit cut blooms, the plants should be put rather
farther apart than would be desirable when planted for ordinary
bedding purposes, so as to admit of their being covered with hand-
glasses a day or two before the showr day if necessary. The protec-
tion is merely required to shelter the trusses from heavy rains, and
also to screen them from the sun, to preserve the outside pips until
those in the centre are developed. The hand-glasses must of course
have a mat, or a piece of canvas thrown over them during the
hottest part of the day ; the caps must, however, be elevated suffi-
ciently to admit of a free circulation of air at all times about the
foliage. The trusses must also be secured to neat sticks, to prevent
the wind injuring them.

FUCHSIAS EOE THE CONSEEVATOEY.

BY J. JAMES,
Head Gardener, Redlees, Isleworth.

fO cultivate Eucbsias successfully, they must be pushed
on vigorously when once started into growth ; therefore
it is a mistake for amateurs and other growers with
limited accommodation for plant-growing, to start them
into growth much before the greenhouse and pits are
cleared of the bedding plants with which they have been occupied
during the winter months. Euchsias are seldom wanted in the con-
servatory before quite the end of the summer, and as they are in every
way better if grown on quickly from the first, the ensuing month pre-
sents a very favourable moment for taking them in hand in earnest.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 101

I shall not say much about striking the cuttings, because those
who have not the command of a hotbed will save themselves much
trouble and anxiety by expending a few shillings in the purchase of
a stock of young plants or rooted cuttings from those who grow
fuchsias extensively, and sell them at a cheap rate. Where the
conveniences exist for striking the cuttings, of course the work of
propagating the stock is very simple. Select short, stubby, and firm
shoots, and take them off with four or five joints, then trim oif the
two lower pair of leaves, and insert the cuttings deep enough to
admit of the base of the leaves at the third joint to rest upon the
sand, to avoid the check experienced by cuttings where several are
put in one pot and divided. When rooted put them singly in small
pots, as they can then be shifted into larger pots without iujury to
the roots. To assist the quick development of the roots, partly
plunge the pots in the hotbed, and if placed in a large house cover
them with a hand-glass to maintain a close damp atmosphere about
them, but when in a frame no hand-glass will be required. Shade
from the sun and sprinkle overhead when necessary, but they must
not be kept too moist, or a large proportion will damp off. When
rooted expose them more freely to the light and air, and shift into
pots two sizes larger, as soon as the cutting pots are nicely filled with
roots. It will be necessary to keep the house or pit rather close for
a few days after they are repotted, to assist them in becoming esta-
blished quickly. Afterwards more air and light will be required to
insure a short-jointed and firm growth.

In dealing with old plants that were pruned in the winter, and
are now starting into growth, it will be necessary to first turn them
out of the pots, and then to remove the greater part, if not all, the
old soil from the roots, and repot them in a fresh compost and
in clean pots not larger than those from which they were taken.
They may still be pruned, but there is a danger of the strong-growing
sorts suffering from a loss of sap when pruned hard thus late in the
season. The roots of specimens two or three years old may be
shortened if required, but with few exceptions the plants from cut-
tings struck last year should be potted with their roots intact.
Prepare the pots by putting a rather large piece of crock over the
hole, then a layer of smaller pieces ; and to keep the soil in its place,
put a layer of rough turf or flaky leaf-mould over them. Upon this
put a handful or two of the compost, then spread out the roots
regularly over it, and put a few handfuls of the finest part of the
compost immediately over them, and strike the bottom of the pot on
the bench to shake it down amongst them. Then fill in with the
soil, and press it moderately firm. After they are potted, remove
them to a structure where they can be kept close and shaded.
Syringing them lightly twice a day is the best means of checking
undue evaporation until the roots are established in the new soil,
and able to take up sufficient moisture for the support of the plant.
Afterwards it will not be desirable to syringe them so frequently, as
one good washing will be decidedly preferable to half-a-dozen light
sprinkles. Air-giving, shading, and watering must be regulated by
the weather, but it may be stated that fuchsias, when growing freely

SPECIMEN FLAMT OF FUCHSIA.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 103

require no more air than is really necessary to insure a firm growth
and maintain a pure atmosphere. With respect to shading, it may
be stated that they must have full exposure to the light at all times,
excepting when the sun is shining brightly, and then the foliage
must he screened from its influence by means of tiffany or canvas
blinds. It is impossible to lay down any precise rule with respect
to watering, as each plant will differ more or less in its require-
ments. They must be supplied with sufficient water, and no more ;
that is, the soil must not be allowed to become dry, or be kept
in a state of saturation. Healthy specimens, however, will, if the
drainage is perfect and the pots full of roots, require very liberal
supplies. After they are shifted into the pots in which they are to
flower, and are well established, water alternately with weak liquid
manure. Those who have not the conveniences for making liquid
manure from horse or sheep's droppings, may make a stimulating
liquid by mixing one ounce of guano and a five-inch pot full of soot,
with three gallons of soft water a sufficient time before it is wanted,
to allow of its becoming clear before used. A thorough wash over-
head occasionally will be highly beneficial, but the best means of
providing them with a proper share of atmospheric humidity is to
sprinkle the stages and walls, and pour a few cans of water upon the
floor two or three times a day.

Sound turfy loam should form the staple part of the compost, and
to every three parts of loam should be added one part of peat, one
part of thoroughly decaved hotbed manure, dried and run through a
coarse sieve, and a third part of silver-sand. The loam and peat
must be broken up moderately, the manure and sand then added,
and the whole mass well incorporated together. The soil used when
the old plants are shaken out should be made rather finer, and have
a larger proportion of sand than advised above ; which is quite
sufficient, by the way, for all subsequent shifts. The only matter
remaining to be mentioned here is that the plants must be shifted on
until they reach the size in which they are to flower as soon as the
pots are nicely filled with root?, before they become pot-bound,
because every check they receive tends to throw them prematurely
into flower.

The best style of training is that shown in an illustration of a
specimen fuchsia in the catalogue of florists' flowers, published
by Mr. Cannell, of the Fuchsia Nursery, Station Eoad, Woolwich.*
The specimen there figured is one of a fine collection exhibited by
Mr. Cannell at one of the great summer shows of the Royal Botanic
Society, Regent's Park, last year. He is undoubtedly one of the
most successful trade cultivators and exhibitors of the fuchsia in the
country, and is, so far as I am aware, the only trade grower who
makes a specialty of this most beautiful and useful plant, and has
for several years past distributed the beautiful varieties raised by
that veteran raiser, Mr. Banks. The plants exhibited by Mr. Cannell
upon the occasion referred to were from cuttings struck in the spring

* Through the kindness of Mr. Cannell, we are enabled to present our readers
wiih an illustration of the line specimen to which Mr. James alludes.

104 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of the preceding year, and the foundation was laid by stopping the
young shoots when required during the first year. In the early part
of the year in which they were exhibited they were pruned into
shape, and when they were growing freely the young shoots were
thinned out where they were likely to be too close together
when full grown, and the growth towards the top pinched once or
twice to prevent their robbing the lower branches of their proper
share of nourishment. The young growth was not stopped so
excessively as is usually practised, and the results are certainly
such as to prove that Mi*. Cannell's style, which is intermediate
between a bush and a pyramid, is one worthy of general adoption.
Pyramidal specimens are produced by training up a single stem, and
stopping it when necessary to promote the production of side-
branches, which in their turn should be stopped two or three times
in the course of the season.

Of the newer sorts that can be recommended, the following are,
perhaps, the best : — Splendour, Pride of Woolwich, Perfection, King
of the Stripes, Will Sell, Vesta, and Beauty of Kent. Of the older
varieties the following can be recommended as being the most
desirable in the several classes : — Enoch Arden, Try Me O, Lizzie
Hexham, KilliecranTcie, Brilliantissima, Lustre, Beauty of Shohden,
Beauty, Lady Heytesbury ', Conspicua, Bland's Floribunda, Bicturata,
Mrs. Ballantine, Henderson's Avalanche, Lord Calthorpe, Harry
Felton, Champion of the World, and Blue Boy. There are many
other good varieties, but the above are sufficient to form, the nucleus
of a collection.

DAHLIAS.— No. II.

BY JOHN WALSH.

jF the directions given in these pages last month, under
this heading, were carried out, the cultivator will now
be in a position to proceed with the preparation of the
bed for the reception of the plants, and a little advice
upon that part of the subject will doubtless be pecu-
liarly acceptable. If it is intended to exhibit blooms in the autumn,
a favourable position must be selected for the bed ; but if merely
intended for the decoration of the flower-garden, they should be
planted wherever room can be found for them at the back of the
mixed borders.

Although I shall give a few directions for the preparation of the
bed for plants that are to furnish blooms for exhibition purposes, I
should certainly not advise those who take them in hand for the
first time to exhibit in the forthcoming autumn. There are so
many things to learn respecting the management of the plants and
the preparation of the blooms, before first-rate flowers can be pro-
duced, that can only be learnt by working at them for a year or
two. Therefore, the chance of the novice occupying a high position

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 105

on the prize-lisfc is so small, that it will be well to wait for a year or
two, until flowers that are likely to do honour to the cultivator
are produced. This remark applies with equal force to exhibiting
plants and flowers of all kinds, and we should have more thoroughly
good growers and better exhibitions, were growers to wait until
they had mastered the cultivation of the subjects they take a fancy
to before bringing them before tbe public ; because, when a young
grower is thorougbly beaten or laughed at on account of tbe infe-
riority of his products, he loses all heart, and the exhibition list
knows him no more, excepting as a spectator.

The situation selected for the dahlia beds must be open, but, if
practicable, slightly sheltered from rough winds ; for, when planted
in an exposed position, the branches are liable to be snapped off
during boisterous weather. Very heavily-manured ground is not
desirable, because, in ordinaiy seasons, it encourages an excessively
luxuriant growth, and a very small percentage of flowers. On the
other hand, if the soil is poor, there will be an abundance of flowers,
but tbey will be small in size and poor in quality, besides the addi-
tional risk of the foliage becoming infested with red-spider, if the
season happens to be rather dry. Ground that was manured and
trencbed rather deep in the autumn, and left rough on the surface,
will now be in the best possible condition for planting, and the
plants can be put out without further trouble after the third week
in May. There is, however, plenty of time for preparing quarters
that, from any cause, were dealt with in the manner suggested
above, but no time must be lost in preparing ground now. Dress
the- surface with two or three inches of rotten manure, according as
it can be spared, and dig it in regularly, and not put all of it into
the bottom of the trench, as some writers advise. It is also a good
plan to apply a dressing of maiden loam in addition to the manure ;
but, as good loam is so expensive in most districts, it appears
desirable to say that good blooms can be produced without its aid.
Even at this late period the surface should be left rather rough, as
the action of the weather we usually have during April and the
early part of May will pulverize it sufficiently to secure a good
earth by planting-time.

It has been already said the planting should be proceeded with
after the third week in May, and it only now remains to be said
that, from that period to the end of the second week in June, plant-
ing may be most successfully performed. It is not desirable to
defer the planting for any length of time after the first of the last-
named month, because the plants have then such a poor opportunity
of becoming established before the hot weather sets in. There is
no danger attached to planting as early as the second week in May,
because the plants can be protected from morning frosts by means
of flower-pots turned over them the last thing the previous evening.-
As it is important that every plant should have sufficient space for
its full development, they should be put at a distance of not less
than five feet apart. The proper distance is six feet. The distance
at which those in the mixed border are put apart must be regulated
by circumstances, but in no case is it desirable to overcrowd them.

106 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

When growing for exhibition, two plants of each sort should he
grown, and the number of varieties grown should be nearly double
the number of blooms it is intended to stage. The stakes should be
put in the proper positions before planting, to prevent the possi-
bility of their injuring the roots when driven into the soil, and they
must be stout enough to support a considerable strain upon them.
AVater about every other day, until well established, if the weather
happens to be dry for a time after they are put out. Here we must
quit the subject ; but directions for the summer management shall
be given in time to be useful.

The block of Fig. 1, page 82, was unfortunately put bottom
upwards by the printer ; but I do not suppose for a moment that
any inconvenience has been felt, as the letterpress and the position
of the other cuts are sufficient to show that the first cut was re-
versed by mistake.

SUMMER CUCUMBERS.

BY GEOEGE GBAT,

Head GarJener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston-on-Thames.

UCUMBERS are most assuredly of greater value and
more highly appreciated in the summer months than
they are during the winter season, independent of the
vast difference of the cost incurred in their production ;
yet it is exceptional to meet with anything bearing on
the management of the plants during the former period. Treatises
on the cultivation of winter cucumbers are so plentiful that I am
afraid to say how many have made their appearance during the last
four or five years, for fear of being considered guilty of exaggeration,
Avhilst, at this moment, I can only call to mind one paper in which
the management of summer cucumbers is specially dealt with.
"Writers upon cucumber-growing have, apparently, made the mistake
of supposing that the production of a summer crop is so easy that
few require any advice in the matter. Consequently, they confine
themselves to describing the way in which they should be managed
at a season when few people have the inclination or means of grow-
ing them. Eor my own part, I am convinced that a few practical
remarks on the management of cucumbers during the summer
months will be of considerable service, and accordingly offer them
herewith.

Eor securing a regular supply throughout the summer months
expensive appliances are not at all necessary ; but if a structure has
to be erected especially for cucumbers, a low span-roof house, from
nine to twelve feet in width would be decidedly preferable, because
of its value for wintering bedding and other plants. My object,
however, at the present moment, is not to enter into a discussion
respecting the erection of cucumber-houses, but to show how a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 107

plentiful supply of cucumbers may be secured throughout the
summer, with the means and appliances already at hand. As a rule,
the frames and other structures employed in wintering bedding
plants are idle during the summer, instead of being turned to ac-
count in cucumber and melon growing. In frames and pits the soil
can be placed upon the floor, but in greenhouses and similar struc-
tures, it will be necessary to make up the beds upon the side-tables.
JS"ow, instead of laying a few boards upon the stages, and making the
bed of soil upon them, the staging should be removed altogether,
and the plants grown in boxes or in tubs, capable of holding a con-
siderable quantity of soil. It will not be necessary to remove the
supports of the stage, but if all the woodwork is allowed to remain,
and the soil placed thereon, whether in boxes or not, it will be in a
constant state of saturation, and will, consequently, soon decay.
The boxes can be made of the commonest material, so that their cost
need only be most trifling, and those who have not the time, or are
not handy in carpentering, can purchase old egg-boxes, which are
admirably adapted for this work; the medium-sized deep boxes will
hold just sufficient soil for one plant, and the long shallow boxes, if
deepened by knocking the lids to pieces and adding them to the sides
and ends, will hold two plants comfortably, although having the
plants in separate boxes is decidedly preferable. Iu houses where
the side-tables consist of rough boards, covered with sand, gravel, or
ashes, or slate, stone, or other imperishable material, the soil can be
put upon them, and kept in its place by means of a few pieces of
board fixed on both sides. Bottom-heat is neither necessary nor
desirable, and the only matter the cultivator has to study in laying
the foundation of the bed is to provide means for the escape of the
superfluous moisture. This will not be a difficult matter, for if the
bottom is perfectly solid, the water will drain away quite fast enough
at the sides, if the boards are not fixed too close at the bottom.

"With respect to preparing the beds, it is necessary to state that
two parts of turfy loam, one part decayed manure, and one part of
leaf-mould, if procurable, will form a most excellent compost. Pre-
pare by chopping the loam up rather roughly, and then add the
manure and leaf-mould, and well mix together. The soil must be
used in a lumpy state, and a layer of the largest lumps should be
thrown in the bottom of the box or bed previous to putting in the
bulk. Boxes should be filled to within about six cr eight inches of
the top, to afford space for earthing the plants up after they are
established, and iu the case of beds, both in houses and frames, the
soil should be put in a ridge down the centre, and more added as it
becomes necessary, until the bed has been made large enough for
the requirements of the plants. Towards the middle or end of the
summer, the beds may be covered with a layer of manure if the
plants shew signs of exhaustion ; but so long as they grow vigorously
no top-dressing will be required.

The planting must be regulated by the time the houses and
frames are emptied of the bedding plants, but they should be planted
as early in May as possible, because no matter how early they are
planted they will continue to bear until the autumn, so that every

108 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

week is a real gain. The best way for an amateur to procure a
stock would be to purchase a few plants at a neighbouring nursery,
unless he can beg them from a gardener who has them to spare.
This plan will save considerable trouble, although it is not at all
difficult to raise a stock from seed. The seed must, however, be
sown without a day's delay, and to get it up quickly, sow in small
pots, and put one seed in each, and place them on a shelf where
they will be exposed to the full blaze of the sun, and water with
tepid water. After the plants are up they must not be so fully
exposed, but they must have the advantage of the warmest corner
the greenhouse affords.

After the plants are put out, keep the temperature as near as
possible to 75D by day, but as no fire-heat will be used, the heat
must be regulated by the ventilators. The house must, however,
be shut up early in the afternoon, even if the thermometer rises to
90^, so as to husband as much heat as possible for the night. The
foliage should be syringed rather heavily once a day at least, and
the soil not allowed to become dry at any time, or the growth will
be checked, and the foliage quickly become infested with red spider.
The water used, both for syringing and applying to the roots, must
be tepid, and the supply for morning use should be put in the house
over-night, and that for the afternoon placed in the full sun in the
morning.

The directions given for training melons will apply with equal
force to the cucumbers, excepting that the fruit laterals should be
stopped at one or two joints above the fruit when it is about one or
two inches in length. To avoid the necessity of having to remove a
large quantity of the growth at once, a judicious system of stopping
must be practised, and the shoots not likely to be wanted should be
pinched off when a few inches in length. It will, however, be
necessary to cut out a portion of the old wood occasionally, to
maintain a supply of bearing wood.

The best sorts for an amateur to grow for the table are, Sutton's
Berkshire Champion, Bollison's Telegraph, and Master's Prolific, of
the white spine class ; and Godfrey's Black Spine, and Kirklees Hall
Defiance, of the black spine section.

THE CULTIVATION OF THE EOSE.— No. VI.

HOW TO PRUNE ROSES.

OME people prune their roses with a knife and fork ;
that is a practice I strongly object to. Some do not
prune them at all, and that modus I approve of gene-
rally, for a rose not pruned will be sure to flower, and
a rose badly pruned may have all the flower-buds cut
out of it. If it is a toss-up, I cry for no pruning, because Nature
intends that roses should flower, and will accomplish that without
our help, but judicious pruning is to be advised, both for the regula-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 109

tion of the growth and the production of fine flowers. The subject of
pruning admits of both general and particular treatment. As a
matter of course we dispose of generalities first, and, with the
reader's kind permission, will suppose that the reader knows nothing
at all about pruning. 'Now, in the absence of technical knowledge,
common-sense is sometimes useful, and any one ignorant of the
niceties of rose-culture may make a pretty safe guess about the
pruning of a rose by the aid of common-sense alone. Suppose it
presents a number of very long whip-like shoots, we should say
Nature intended those long shoots for some useful purpose, and to
cut them all away would be murder. But we might observe in one
part of the growth two or three of these long shoots entangled and
crowded, and it might occur that to remove one or two, in order to
leave ample room for the full development of the others, would be
sensible ; so far common-sense might suggest, and science would
respond in approval. Next we might turn to a rose of short, stubby,
twiggy growth, and be perplexed about the pruning in this case.
It may have been observed that, on this rose, the finest flowers were
always produced on young, vigorous, and rather greenish shoots, and
this would suggest the advisability of getting rid of some of the old
hard, dark-coloured wood, bristling with little twigs, on which roses
were borne long ago. This would be just the course that science re-
quires, for the essence of the subject may be summed up in this — that
the pruner should, as far as possible, promote perpetual renewal of
the tree, and look to the latest growths for a display of flowers.

All roses that have free-growing bushes, such as the Hybrid
Perpetuals, Gallicas, and Bourbons, may, when grown on their own
roots, be left altogether unpruned, and they will be splendid objects
from year to year. This is rank heterodoxy, I know, but it is true,
and I confess I have always enjoyed a great bank of roses, of about
a di zen different kinds, that have never once been pruned during the
past fifteen years, but have become huge bushes, that, in their season,
are literally smothered with flowers. This system, however, must not
be followed if flowers fit for exhibition are required ; indeed, to in-
sure high quality, we must practise pruning by rule, and be content
with a few flowers. Probably, nine-tenths of all our readers would
prefer a brave show of garden roses to the production of a few
flowers of the most perfect form, and beyond the average in size,
and to all such we commend the simple plan of planting the most
robust-habited and free-flowering sorts on their own roots, and leav-
ing them to grow almost wild, and in happy ignorance of the pruning
knife, and without a stake or tie to disfigure their natural graceful-
ness. "We will now treat of particular modes of pruning, taking
the families in the same order as they are treated of in the " Bose
Book."

Cabbage Eoses should be pruned rather close, all the longest
shoots being cut back to about a third of their original length.
They will then, from the half dozen buds left on each plump shoot,
put forth noble clusters of flowers.

Moss Roses require to be pruned in the same manner as advised
for cabbage roses.

110 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Damask Roses make [handsome standards and fine free bushes
on their own roots. In pruning, remove by a clean cut to the very
base a few of the oldest shoots, but not to the impoverishing of the
tree. The young vigorous shoots should be shortened to two-thirds
their original length, and the smaller twiggy growth be well thinned
out.

G-allica or French Roses have a compact, upright growth,
and consequently do not make handsome standards. They require
rather close pruning, the strongest shoots to have seven or eight
buds left, the weaker shoots only two or three, and the small wiry
wood should be cut clean away.

Alba or White Roses constitute a peculiar class with green
shoots, light glossy foliage, and white flesh or pink-coloured
flowers. These are among the very best of roses to be grown in the
form of bushes without any pruning at all. The proper way to
prune them is to cut back to about half its length every strong
young shoot, and to within two or three buds of the base all the
weaker shoots. The wiry wood must be removed entirely.

Hybrid China Roses require careful pruniug, or they will not
produce their flowers profusely. One important duty of the culti-
vator is to promote renewal constantly by cutting out a few of the
oldest of the long rods to make room for younger rods that will
take their place. The finest show of flowers will be secured by
leaving a few of the longest shoots altogether unpruned ; but, as
tidiness of appearance is an object, the shoots may all be slightly
shortened, and they must be thinned out where crowded. Indis-
criminate hacking and cutting will simply ruin these roses, therefore
they are not to be pruned without a little first consideration of
their habit.

Hybrid Bourbon Roses, of vigorous habit, should not be
severely pruned, but those of close-growing habit should be cut in
rather close, leaving an average of half a dozen buds on each shoot.
All the wiry spurs that produced flowers last season should now be
cut clean away.

Austrian Brier Roses require careful pruning, the strong
shoots to be only slightly shortened, and the wiry twigs to be left
untouched, except they happen to be crowded ; in which case they
must be thinned.

Scotch Roses do not require pruning at all, except to keep them
in some sort of order, and, as a rule, they are most enjoyable when
allowed to run riot in the utmost disorder.

Ayrshire Roses ought never to be pruned except to regulate
their general outlines, and admit light and air amongst their branches.

Multielora Roses should never be pruned, except to keep
them in order, and occasionally renew them by substituting new
shoots for old ones.

Evergreen Roses should never be severely pruned, except to
promote renewal, and keep them in proper order.

Boursault Roses scarcely require pruning, but they must be
kept in order, and from time to time the oldest shoots should be cut
clean out.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. m

Banksian Eoses should be carefully pruned immediately after
flowering, and at no other time ; then the grosser shoots should be
cut clean out, and the twiggy branches should be shortened and
moderately thinned. If never pruned at all, the worst that will
happen to them will be crowding of the growth.

Hybrid Perpetual Hoses vary so much in habit that the
pruner must operate in accordance with their style of growth.
They may, however, be all left unpruned, and will grow and flower
superbly. But to insure flowers of fine quality, and keep the trees
in formal trim, pruning must be systematically performed, and there
can be no better rule for it than that given at page 44 of the " Bose
Book." It is given in these words : — " As for the pruning of these
roses, cut back to a plump bud, so as to remove the light spray which
has produced flowers, and cut the moderate growers closer aud more
severely than those that grow vigorously. When shoots as thick as
a carpenter's pencd are produced, six to ten buds may be allowed,
upon an average, to each shoot ; if these are cut back to buds placed
outwards, the growth will always be of a nature to keep the head
open, and for this purpose all shoots that crowd the centre should
be removed by a clean cut to the base. To make the most of these
roses they should be freely but carefully pruned during summer."
As the Hybrid Perpetuals are most commouly grown, so they are the
most commonly abused and ill-treated, and their too-general fate is
to be pruned destructively by jobbing gardeners, who think the more
they cut the better is the work done, and hack and slash accordingly.
Happy the amateur who can prune his own roses, or, at least, stand
by and direct ; for when Nature has kindly produced a fine spreading
bush of ripe hard wood for the production of noble flowers, it is
murder to cut this useful wood away, except by real artistic rule,
the first requirement of which is that enough of it shall be left to
prove that the rose is the Queen of the Garden.

Bourbon Eoses should never be severely pruned, but the twi^s
on which last year's flowers were borne should be removed, and the
young growth shortened and thinned, with a view to produce com-
pact symmetrical heads. The more robust the habit the less must
they know of the knife.

China Boses of small growth require to be pruned with a view
to keep them neat and compact, and hence the shortening of the
longest shoots is usually sufficient. Where planted to make belts
and masses, they may be left almost unpruned with advantage - but
where neatness is required, they must be just kept in shape and
nothing more.

Tea-scented Boses vary much in habit, and require to be pruned
in accordance with their degrees of robustness. A few strong-
growing kinds make rods of great length and thickness, while at the
other end of the scale we have little wiry mites that may always be
covered with a peck measure. The long rods should be left nearly
their full length, but they may be shortened to half their length,
without pruning the bloom out of them. Periodical renewal from
the base must be encouraged, and if the trees are well fed they will
be always throwing out new aud vigorous shoots. The small kinds

112 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

need regulating and careful thinning, and may be pruned close with-
out harm.

Noisette Roses may be left to grow wild without any pruning,
and will make a glorious show. But where order is the gardener's
first law, they may be pruned in the same way as advised for the
Tea-scented.

Macaethey Roses are grand things for walls, in sheltered situa-
tions ; they scarcely require any pruning, but must be kept in order
and the growth as evenly distributed as possible.

The Time to Prune is not sufficiently understood. Save and
except the pruning that should be done in summer, instantly upon
the decline of the first bloom, the proper time to prune is some time
in the months of March or April, and, as a rule, the later the better.
In a sheltered spot, where spring frosts rarely do mischief, pruning
may commence in January to promote an early bloom. But for the
average of climates in these islands, it is well to allow the trees to
make a little growth before pruning them. If late frosts occur, this
growth is injured, but presently afterwards the pruning- knife re-
moves it, and a new and more vigorous growth starts from the lower
buds left by the pruner. To be in undue haste to prune roses is to
expose to risk and injury by late spring frosts. S. H.

BEDDERS AND BEDDING.— No. III.

BY A HEAD GAEDENEE.
PREPARATION OF THE BEDS.

'N the two last numbers of the Eeoeae "Woeld, the pro-
pagation and selection of the best bedders was briefly
dealt with, and we will now offer a few suggestions re-
specting the preparation of the beds for their reception,
and then indicate the most suitable situations for the
different classes of plants employed in the embellishment of the
flower garden. The advice, with respect to turning up the beds in
the autumn, and then leaving them in a rough state until the fol-
lowing spring, still holds goods where it can be carried out ; but
where the beds are filled, as they should be, with spring-flowering
plants, it is impossible for them to be prepared for the summer
until a late period in the spring. Hence, what follows is strictly
seasonable. A few years since it was commonly supposed that
flowers could be grown without the assistance of manure at all ; and
it was not until after repeated failures of such things as calceolarias
and verbenas, that a large proportion of flower gardeners could be
convinced to the contrary. It is now, however, generally admitted,
thanks to the teaching of our Editor here and elsewhere, that with-
out the assistance of manure, in some form, flower gardening can-
not be carried on successfully with any more success than would be

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 113

attendant on an attempt to grow vegetables without maintaining
the fertility of the soil by means of liberal dressings of fertilizing
matters. This point being conceded, all that need be said can be
summed up in a very few words. First of all, it is necessary to
decide upon the arrangements without delay, if not already done, to
avoid delay and confusion at planting-time, and also to insure the
beds being prepared in a manner most congenial to the subjects
with which they are occupied during the eusuing season. The
arrangements being determined upon, and the way in which each
bed is to be planted duly entered in a book, the work of preparation
must be proceeded with as fast as the beds are cleared of their
winter occupants. All the beds should be dug up as deeply as it
is possible to dig them ; but if all receive an equal dressing of
manure, the manure will be worse than wasted ; because plants that
do best in poor soil will grow too luxuriantly for them to flower
well, whilst others that require a very liberal share of nourishment,
will be partially starved for the want of food. Bedding geraniums
of all kinds, with but few exceptions indeed, do much best when
planted in newly-manured ground, as also do centaureas, the dwarf
tagetes, and a few other things that could be mentioned. On the
other hand, violas, calceolarias, and verbenas seldom do well unless
the ground has been liberally dressed with half-rotten manure. For
such things as petunias, ageratums, heliotropiums, and most of the
ornamental-leaved plants used for bedding, an intermediate course
is desirable, so as to maintain a healthy and moderately vigorous
growth without encouraging excessive luxuriance. The best manure
for plants of this class is either well -rotted leaf -mould, or decayed
or charred vegetable refuse used in a rather liberal manner. Few
gardeners care to take the trouble of regulating the dressing of
manure according to the requirements of the plants ; and the general
rule, so far as my observations, which have extended over a rather
wide area during the last half century, is to dress all the beds in the
flower garden alike. Consequently, the behaviour of the plants is
far from satisfactory, even if they do not fail altogether. In clear-
ing the beds in the spring, everything, excepting bulbs and plants
required for propagating purposes, should be dug in instead of being
wheeled to the rubbish heaps to poison the air of the whole neigh-
bourhood with the noxious exhalation arising therefrom. By bury-
ing the matter in the beds, a vast saving of time and fertilizing
matter is effected, independent of the objection of having a heap
of vegetable refuse in a state of decomposition in the garden.

In making the arrangements for the forthcoming season, due
regard should be paid, as far as practicable, to putting each class of
plants in the position most congenial to it. In planting a group of
beds, primary importance must, of course, be attached to the group-
ing of the colours, but where the beds are dotted about on different,
parts of the lawn, much might be done in this respect. This, I have
no doubt, appears a trivial matter to many, but the failures arising
from the mistakes of putting shade-loving plants in the full sun,
and vice versa, are so numerous, and cause so much dissatisfaction
every season, that no apology is necessary for alluding to it here.

VOL. VI. — NO. IV. 8

114 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

As a guide to the inexperienced I will classify the most important
genera employed in flower garden decoration according to the posi-
tions in which they do best. But it must be borne in mind that a
very large proportion of the bedders will do moderately well in
almost any position. Amongst those flourishing in a cool and
partially shady situation we must include Ageratums, Calceolarias,
Variegated Geraniums, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Heliotropiums, Verbenas,
and Violas. Amongst those that do well in a dry hot position, are
Alternantheras, Bouvardias, Coleus, Centaureas, Zonal Geraniums,
Iresines, Lantanas, Petunias,. Tropseolums, Veronicas, and succulent
plants of all kinds, and nearly all the Subtropicals.

KITCHEN GARDEN BOOTS.

«|HE tap-rooted plants grown in the kitchen garden cannot
usually be sown with advantage until the month of
April, although in forward seasons parsnips may be
sown with safety in the month of March. Important
as these crops are, there is really not much to be said
about them, though what little should be said is as important as the
roots themselves ; for good crops of roots make a great return for
the labour bestowed upon them, and to secure good crops we must
practise o-ood cultivation. As, in a periodical work, we are bouud
to begin somewhere with reference to the passing time, we shall
now suppose that those of our readers who grow garden roots have
plots of land made ready for them by deep trenching, and that it
depends on the weather for a nice friable top-crust on which the
seed can be sown. Taking this for granted, we proceed to offer a few
practical advices, which we hope will to many prove useful.

The Caeeot is the most important of all the garden roots, the
potato alone excepted. Two supplies of carrots should be arranged
for in every garden. A dish of small, tender carrots constitutes
one of the elegances of the table during the summer and autumn,
and large carrots are in demand all the winter, and, indeed, as long as
they can be obtained throughout the year. Fortunately, both sorts
can be grown in any garden that will produce a cabbage ; but first-
class winter carrots fit for exhibition can only be grown in a deep,
well-pulverized loam,, or nourishing sandy soil that has been long
in cultivation. In common with all other crops, deep digging some
time in advance of sowing is necessary to insure a heavy produc-
tion of handsome roots ; and the best plot of ground that can be
selected for sowing carrot-seed on is one that was heavily manured
last season, and well trenched up before winter. To incorporate
fresh manure with the soil in making preparations for the cultiva-
tion of the carrot, is bad practice ; but in the case of a worn-out
plot being required for this crop, it may be trenched two spits deep,
and a good bed of manure may be laid in the trench as the work
proceeds. It is of the utmost importance to have the surface soil
dry and pulverulent, and it is better to wait for fine weather and a

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 115

good seed-bed than sow when the ground is cold and pasty. Carrot-
seed is light, chaffy stuff", requiring careful handling to distribute it
regularly in the drill. It is the custom of some cultivators to mix
it with sand, to render it more tangible, but the practised hand needs
no such aid. The drills should be drawn very shallow, at a distance
of six to nine inches apart for the smaller kinds, and a foot apart
for the larger. It is usual to sow rather thick, and to thin severely ;
and as the seed is cheap, we need not find fault with the common
practice ; but, with good seed, thin sowing is certainly better than
thick, because seed is saved, and there is less thinning to do after-
wards. The thinning of the crop should commence as soon as the
plants are large enough to handle, and, at the same time, if weeds
are rising with them, the scuffle-hoe should be employed between
the rows, to keep the ground clean. A few very nice dishes of
tender summer carrots may be obtained by careful thinning of the
beds sown for winter use. But the proper carrot for summer is the
"French Horn, a small, elegant root, which may be stored for winter,
but is most useful to draw when young for immediate cooking, when
it is peculiarly tender and delicate. This small carrot is sown for
an early crop on beds of light rich soil, made up with foundations of
half-exhausted fermenting material, such as stable manure or leaves,
and covered with frames. A proper hotbed would force them too
rapidly, but a gentle warmth of soil and judicious sheltering, with
plenty of air as weather may permit, are the conditions under which
an early supply may be most surely secured. The first sowings are
made in this way in January and February, and these are succeeded
by sowings on open borders, hi warm and sheltered spots, in March
and April, and on any piece of ground that may be vacant in Julv.
As a rule, the Horn carrot should be sown in very small breadth's,
or there will be a superabundant supply ; but as the requirements of
families differ immensely, a general caution against " overdoing
it " is all that can be offered here. In our garden we always grow
more than suffices for the kitchen, and so the cattle come in for a
pleasant variation of their daily food.

The best of all the sorts for use in winter and spring ia the Long
Surrey, which is the handsomest and best flavoured. A more pro-
fitable, but a thoroughly coarse variety, is the Altringliam, which has
an objectionable green crown. In gross weight of crop this will
always surpass the Long Surrey, and, though coarse and ugly, it is
a good carrot. A most valuable variety for shallow soils is James's
Intermediate, which has every good quality that can be desired
except beauty, for it is short and club-like, but in colour and flavour
excellent.

The Paesnip thrives in any soil, with or without manure, pro-
vided it is fairly prepared for by deep digging some time in advance
of sowing the seed. It is, perhaps, the most profitable of all the
roots grown in the kitchen garden, but it is less generally esteemed,
and is therefore less generally useful, than the potato. No one who
cares to eat this sugary root need be deterred from growing it by
untoward circumstances. "We have grown a crop in a field of
stones, in a sterile district, where we had to carry sand in to cover

116 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the seed, and the roots at harvesting time were only a little thicker
than a big man's thumb, yet, when slowly cooked in a small
quantity of water, they were as marrowy and sweet as the finest of
the Jersey parsnips ; indeed, we are inclined to believe they were a
few degrees better. However, though small roots are not to be
despised, large ones are most valued, and a rich, deep soil will pro-
duce them with just no mere trouble than deep digging and sowing
the seed, for they scarcely want weeding, and the thinning may be
performed in almost no time. If, however, extra large roots are
required, the way to secure them is to trench two spits deep, and
put a good bed of fat manure in the bottom of the trench — the roots
will find it in good time, and the result will be satisfactory. But
manure dug in with surface-digging is more harm than good, for the
roots, instead of going straight down, make all sorts of ugly forks
and fibres, and a very large proportion of the whole bulk is wasted
in preparing them for cooking, Therefore, if the labour of trench-
ing and putting manure at the bottom of the trenches is too great,
do not employ manure, and be content with smaller, but more
usable roots. In any case, however, deep and earnest stirring of the
soil is a proper preparation for this crop. Hard work, more than
" fine words," tends to the buttering of parsnips.

Sow fresh seed in March, or early in April. The seed bed should
be fine and dry. If large roots are desired, sow in drills, fifteen to
eighteen inches apart, and thin to a foot ; if the ground is poor, sow
twelve inches asunder, and thin to nine or six inches. Distances
depend on conditions, but a mistake will not ruin the plantation r
for if parsnips are rather crowded, it does not much matter ; but
the size of the roots will of necessity depend upon the space allowed
them. During showery weather in July and August, a final thiuning
may be made of roots that elbow each other, and they will be found
exceedingly marrowy and delicate when cooked.

Beetroot should be available every day throughout the year ;
but like other roots it can be grown only during summer. Where
the demand is unremitting, the cultivator must secure early crops
for use in autumn, and must store well and plentifully for supply in
spring and summer. We have found it tolerably easy work to do
this until July, and then the old beets were becoming fibrous, and
the young ones were too small to pull, and there was the shadow of
a hitch sometimes. But it can be done, and wherever salads are in
request all the year round, beetroot must be provided for them.
Our practice is to sow a few rows on half- fermenting beds in frames
in February, as advised for the early production of Horn carrots,
and this plan enables us to supply the kitchen with fine roots at the
end of June aud throughout July, when the roots in the store are
acquiring an undesirable toughness. As the subject of storing
comes before us properly here, we may as well dispose of it. A bed
of earth in a shed of any kind, safe from frost, answers the purpose
well. Better is it, however, to store the roots in dry sand in a
place where neither moisture, nor frost, nor the warmth of spring,
can reach them. Our best store is a shed built of brick in a north
aspect ; it is safe from frost, and the spring sunshine has but little

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. H7

effect on its temperature. Some time in March the whole stock
should be taken out, and the new roots and shoots rubbed off and the
stock pitted again. The roots should be laid horizontally, as that
position affords a slight check to growth. But once a month at least
— if late keeping is important — they should all be looked over, and
every sign of growth removed, for if allowed to make roots and
leaves they soon become worthless.

As for the cultivation, it is the simplest matter in the world.
Sow in shallow drills, putting the seed as nearly as possible singly
six inches apart. As nearly as possible, mind, and do not waste
valuable time about it, because if you sow too thick, it is no great
task to thin the rows to nine inches or a foot apart, when the plants
are large enough to handle. It is not desirable to grow large beets
as a rule, but if they are required, proceed in the same way as re-
commended for the production of large parsnips. For open ground
crops, where especial earliness of production is of no consequence,
sow in April and May, and take up in November. When storing
them, cut off the tails and some portion of the crowns, but be care-
ful not to wound any part of the usable fleshy root, for there should
never be a puncture in a beet until it is cooked and cold — -in fact,
the cook who would put a fork into a beet to try if it is " done,"
ought to be disarmed without the honours of war. But careful top-
ping and tailing is to be advised, as it promotes close storing, and
prevents growth in spring. All the varieties of beets have been
grown again and again in the Experimental Garden at Stoke New-
ington, and, as a matter of course, we find that very few are needed
in any ordinary garden. The three best are Sutton's Dark Red,
Nutting's Dwarf Bed, and Henderson's Pine Apple. If large and
handsome roots are desired, grow DelVs Short Top, and Whjtis Blade.
For particularly small and delicate roots of fine flavour, grow Carter's
St. Osytli. If the soil is shallow, and the production of handsome
roots doubtful, sow Egyptian Turnip Booted. Beet is occasionally
grow in the flower garden for the sake of the deep colour of its
leaves. In this case, a green-leaved variety will not do, so, therefore
Barr and Sug den's Crimson-leaved is the best.

Salsify is sometimes called the " Vegetable Oyster," because,
when properly dressed, its flavour reminds lovers of that favourite
mollusk of the joys that belong to months in which the letter R
occurs. I must confess that, although I have enjoyed many a dish
of salsify, I have never yet found it a sufficient substitute for the
buttery bivalve, and am content to know it as salsify simply, without
aid of a comparative designation. This root has a natural tendency
to forkedness, which it is the duty of the cultivator to correct, by
treating it precisely as recommended for the production of extra
large parsnips — that is by trenching, and putting a good bed of
manure in the bottom of the trench. It would be vain to talk of
growing salsify extra large, for the fact is, it is never large enough,
and is, therefore, seldom worth having unless grown with especial
attention to its fullest possible development. Be liberal with it,
therefore, or do not grow it at all. Prepare the ground in autumn,
manuring as advised, and sow in April, in row7s a foot apart at least.

118 THE FLOEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.

If the ground is extra strong and liberally manured at the bottom
of the trench, sow in rows fifteen inches apart, always remembering
that you cannot grow the root too large. Thin to nine inches or a
foot when large enough. Take up in November, and store in dry
earth or sand ; one row may be left in the ground to furnish a dish
of spring vegetable. This is obtained from the rising flower-stems,
which are to be cut early or they will be stringy, and cooked in the
way of sea-kale. The proper way to cook salsify roots is to boil them
until tender in a very small quantity of milk, and then mash them
and fry them in butter with salt and pepper. But it may be cooked
in the same way as parsnips, which, you will remember, should be
boiled slowly in the smallest possible quantity of water, until tbey
are almost in a melting condition. If boiled fast in plenty of water,
the flavour of parsnips and salsify is all washed away, and lost for
ever.

Scoezoneba is cultivated as salsify, but, being a stronger
grower, needs rather more room. S. H.

A NOTE ON BEDDING COLEUS.

BY AN AMATETJB.

;OLEUS are very valuable for bedding purposes, but they
are very often omitted in lists of bedding plants, chiefly
because many are under the impression that they cannot
be kept without a stove to preserve them during winter.
This is a mistake, for, with little or no trouble, they may
be kept in an ordinary greenhouse or plant pit. The way that I should
recommend is that cuttings be taken about the middle of August,
and inserted closely together in six-inch pots or pans, partly filled
with crocks. Use a compost of light leaf-mould and loam, with a
little silver sand. Then plunge the pots into a slight bottom-heat
until the cuttings are well rooted. Erom thence transfer them to a
shelf in the greenhouse, keeping them in a temperature of about 40°
to 45°, and the atmosphere as dry as possible. Water them about
once a fortnight, merely to keep them alive. In February, put
them into three-inch pots, when they will soon make excellent
plants. The sorts best suited for bedding are, Princess of Wales,
VerscTiqffelti, and Emperor Napoleon, but I consider Versclwffelti is
the best.

This is not, perhaps, the most seasonable period for giving
advice for wintering Coleus, but I have called attention to the
matter now, so that those who like them can buy a stock now, and
enjoy their beauty during the coming summer, and also have plants
for furnishing a supply of cuttings in the autumn. A rather warm
position should be selected for planting the Coleus.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

119

NEW PLANTS.

CACIA RICEANA (Sot. Mag., t. 5835).— This is by far the most beau-
tiful of the Tasmanian Acacias, and it appears to be confined to the
southern parts of that island, growing like a weeping willow on the
banks of the streams that fall into the Derwent. We entirely agree
with Dr. Hooker, that " It is remarkable that so fine a greenhouse
ornament should be comparatively rare in cultivation, for its deep green perennial
foliage, its long whip-like pendant branches, clothed with golden flowers, the facility
with which it can be trained over columns and arches, and the length of time
during which it remains in
flower, render it one of the
most desirable acquisitions
for a conservatory." At
Floors Castle, a glazed
corridor, fifty feet in
length, is festooned with
a single plant, and when
it is in flower, from March
onwards, the effect is in-
describable. Flowering
branches, many feet in
length, and a mass of bloom,
were exhibited before the
Royal Horticultural So-
ciety on the 15th of March
last, and they attracted a
considerable share of atten-
tion. Without doubt, it is
one of the most valuable
plants for covering pillars
and training over the roof
of greenhouses and conser-
vatories yet introduced to
this country. Standard
specimens in pots would
have a charming appear-
ance, intermixed with other
spring- flowering plants.

Considering the great value of this acacia, we have much pleasure in recording
the fact that Messrs. Hooper and Co., Central Avenue, Covent Garden, W.C., are
offering seeds at a remarkably cheap rate. Acacia seed can be readily raised in an
ordinary greenhouse with but little trouble.

Aphelandra atjrantiaca (Floral Mag., t. 517). — A magnificent stove-
plant, with superb foliage, and large heads of brilliant crimson and orange-coloured
flowers.

Catalpa syhinG-efolia at/r,ea. — A golden-leaved variety of one of the noblest
garden trees. Messrs. Cripps and Son, of Tunbridge Wells, have lately iutroduced
this interesting novelty to cultivation, and it well deserves the attention of those
who appreciate choice trees. This variety is distinguished by the rich golden hue of
its leaves, which are of a purer and deeper shade of yellow than the well-known
Golden Feather pyrethrum. When it attains to some size in a suitable position, it
will, we have no doubt, prove to be one of the most distinct and beautiful of garden
trees in cultivation.

Cattleta maxima (Blast. Sort., 29).— A magnificent species with flowers of a
delicate rosy-mauve tint. Cattleya maxima is a native of the forests of the Rio
Grande, where it attains to gigantic dimensions and makes a remarkable display of
its exquisitely-coloured flowers.

Godetia Whitneti.— This splendid species is distinguished by its dwarf habit
and huge flowers, which are produced at the summit of the stems and branches in

acacia fjceana.

120

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

GODETIA WHITNEYI.

crowded cluster?. The flowers are nearly four inches across when fully expanded ;
the petals blush-coloured, marked in the centre with a handsome crimson stain

varying in size, but very con-
spicuous, and frequently visible
externally, when the flower is
closed. It is usually erect in
growth, rarely exceeding twelve
inches in height, but occasion-
ally it assumes a much dwarfer,
almost tabular, form. It re-
ceived the award of a First-
class Certificate from the Royal
Horticultural Society, when ex-
hibited last autumn, and it ex-
cited a very large amount of
attention and was much ad-
mired. It is, without doubt, one
of the most valuable annuals
introduced to this country for
several years past. Like many
more of our best annuals, it is a
native of California. For the
opportunity of figuring this
grand acquisition, we are in-
debted to Messrs. Hooper and
Co., ofCoventGarden. Theseed
can be sown in a cold frame, or
in the open ground, and trans-
planted when about an inch
high, in the same way as other
hardy annuals. The plants
should be put about nine inches or a foot apart, for without they have sufficient space
for their full development, much of their beauty and effectiveness will be lost.

Leptosiphon parviflorus var. rosaceus. — This lovely little annual closely
resembles in habit L. aureus,
but the flowers are larger
and of a rosy-red hue. It
was introduced from Cali-
fornia, and when exhibited
before the Eoyal Horticul-
tural and Royal Botanic So-
cieties in June last, it was
awarded a First-class Certifi-
cate upon each occasion. In
growth it is very dwarf,
ranging from three to six
inches in height, and pro-
duces its flowers in terminal
clusters. Altogether it is
a most valuable acquisition,
and one of the loveliest dwarf
annuals known. We have
to thank Messrs. Hooper
and Co. for the opportunity
of presenting our readers
with a portrait of this gem.

Themistoclesia coronilla (Illust. Hort., 32). — An elegant ericaceous plant
with red flowers. In all essential particulars it is a vaccinium, and the most
valuable acquisition for the heath-house and cool conservatory. It was discovered
by M. Linden, in 1843, in New Granada, and was first described as Ceralostema
coronarktm. It is extremely neat in growth, with small ovate-oblong leaves and
bell-shaped flowers of a brilliant vermilion hue.

leptosiphon rosaceus.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 121

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR APEIL.

Flower Garden. — The planting of evergreens should be com-
pleted early this month. Stakes must be put to those newly-
planted to keep them firm, and prevent their being loosened with
the wind. A good thick mulch over the roots will be of immense
service. Sow seeds of biennials and perennials, and annuals for
late blooming ; thin out those already up, and transplant or throw
away. Finish dividing and planting herbaceous plants. Prepare in
readiness the beds for ordinaiy " bedding stuff," dahlias, etc. Box,
thrift, Stachys lanata, and other plants for edgings, may be planted
early in the month. Walks should be thoroughly rolled to make
them firm for the summer ; and grass plots dressed, to give every-
thing an air of neatness and order.

Kitchen" Garden". — Like last month, an unusual amount of
forethought and activity are required in this department just now.
Old stumps of winter greens, that are likely to produce a few more
gatherings, should be taken up, and laid in by their heels in some
spare corner, and the ground they are now occupying turned up.
Plant out cabbage and lettuce raised in cold frame. Cauliflowers
from the frames should be planted oat the first week of this month ;
sow for late autumn supplies. Sow for main crops, beet, broccoli,
cabbage, cardoons, carrots, celeriac, celery for late crop, chicory,
endive, parsnips, salsify, scorzonera. For successional crops —
lettuce, radishes, cress, mustard, spinach, turnips, peas, and other
vegetables ; plant out crops from the seed beds when large euough.
Keep the hoe at work amongst crops of all kinds. Earth up and
stick peas, to prevent their being blown about. Seeds of sweet
and pot-herbs that still remain unsown must be got in at once.
Those sown in heat should be pricked off into small pots or cold
frame, to well harden off before planting out. Prepare trenches
for celery, and put at least six inches of good rotten manure in the
bottom, and just cover with soil. The spaces between the rows
may be occupied with lettuces and radishes. Get in all crops that
ought to have been sown last month as early as possible, for every
day adds to the risk of the crops coming to perfection. All salading,
such as lettuce, endive, and radishes, must have rich soil after this
season, otherwise they will make a slow growth, and of little value.
Small salading is of little service through the summer, unless grown
in a shady position, in a cold frame, or under handlights. Potatoes
in heavy cold soils must now be planted. Protect early kinds now
peeping through the ground, by drawing a little soil over them.

Fruit Garden". — All pruning ought to be finished before this,
with the exception of the fig, which must be done early this month.
Continue to protect peaches and nectarines ; care, however, must
be exercised, so that the young growth is not drawn weak and
spindly through too thick a covering. If blinds of tiffany or canvas
are used, roll them up during the day, but where branches of fir
or fern are used, about half the quantity should now be taken off.
When coddled too much, the young shoots suffer considerably when

122 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fully exposed. Thin out apricots, and disbud; but proceed cau-
tiously and gradually, so as not to produce too great a check. Lay
long litter from the stable between the strawberry rows, which will
serve the double purpose of strengthening the plants with the salts
washed out of it, aud at the same time keep the fruit clean. Eemove
all runners that are not wanted for layering ; they only rob the
plants, impoverish the soil, and take up more time in clearing them
away after they once get rooted into the soil.

Conservatory. — Very little fire-heat must be used here now.
Give plenty of air to prevent the plants drawing, and shade during
the bright sunshine, to enable the flowers to retain freshness as
long as possible. Plants of all kinds will now require increased
■ supplies of water ; those in flower must not be allowed to suffer for
the want of this- element, or the flowers will soon drop. Sow
primulas and cinerarias for early bloom, and place the seed-pans in
a shady corner until the plants are up. Cytisus should be pruned
into shape immediately they go out of flower, and directly they
break, repotted. Autumn-struck and old plants of fuchsias will
require shifting into larger pots ; cuttings put in in March will now
want potting off. Keep the whole of the plants in a brisk growing
temperature, well syringed and pinched, as required. Eemove
cinerarias going out of bloom, if offsets are required, into a cold
frame, and keep them properly watered, when they will soon begin
to start. Verbenas and petunias struck now, and grown on, will be
useful for flowering in the autumn. Pot hard-wooded plants that
require a shift, and harden off those that have finished their growth,
preparatory to going out of doors for the summer.

Stove. — Cut down begonias that are out of flower, and repot.
Shift on the ornamental-leaved kinds. Achimenes and gloxinias,
repot before they get pot-bound. Keep the former near the glass,
to prevent them drawing. Continue to shift orchids that require
repotting, and divide those, the stock of which it is desired to
increase. Maintain a thoroughly moist atmosphere by throwing
plenty of water on the floor, but avoid syringing them for the
present. Shut up early, and use as little fire-heat as possible.
Train specimen plants of a climbing habit, such as 'Stephanotis, as
fast as they make new growth, to prevent their getting out of
form. All the plants that require a shift must have it at once,
as better growth will be made in the fresh soil than in that which is
now worn out.

Forcing. — Cucumbers and melons must be carefully handled
just now. Hang mats or canvas over the openings during the
prevalence of north or east winds. Shut up early in the day, and
give the foliage a moderate syringing before doing so. See that the
bed is a proper degree of moisture throughout its depth, and if it
requires watering, use water at a temperature of 75°. Where the
bottom-heat is supplied entirely by fire-heat, particular attention
must be paid to this point in their culture. Pay frequent attention
to stopping, training, and regulating the shoots. Fertilize the
female flowers of the melon. The temperature of the various
vineries must be gradually increased as the days lengthen, and the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 123

sun gains power. As the fruit of the figs hegins to swell, increase
the moisture and heat. Peaches and nectarines will now be making
considerable progress. The night temperature should now range
about 60° or 65°, with arise of ten degrees during the day. Disbud,
tie in the shoots, and thin the fruit, as may be necessary. The last
operation must be performed with a sparing hand, as the stoning
process is a critical time for these fruits to go through. Syringe
twice a day, and keep the borders properly watered.

Pits and Pkahes. — Auriculas will now require more water;
shade from strong sunshine. Turn out the whole of the bedding
plants into cradles, where they can be protected with mats, if the
frames are required for other purposes ; if not, draw off the lights,
except during frosts. Herbs, tomatoes, vegetable marrows, etc.,
must receive full exposure to the external air, to enable them to go
out sturdy and strong. Prepare the frames for growing summer
cucumbers, melons, and chilies. Plants requiring to be grown on
briskly should be shut up early, and have a skiff with the syringe
before the lights are shut down for the night.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

[HE occurrences most worthy of note during the last two
months have been the Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition of Lycastes and Chinese Primulas on the
3rd of February ; of Camellias, Lilies of the Valley, and
Plowering Shrubs, on March 1 ; and the exhibition of
Hyacinths and other spring-flowering plants, on March 15 ; and
the Royal Botanic Society's Hyacinth Show, March 22nd and 23rd.
I will not weary my readers with full details of the several exhibitions,
but content myself with mentioning the most important features,
and a brief notice of the most valuable of the new flowers and plants
brought forward.

At the first of the Kensington meetings, the first prize for
Chinese Primulas was most deservedly awarded to Mr. Goddard,
gardener to H. Little, Esq., Cambridge Park, Twickenham, for the
whole of the plants in the collection were marvels of cultural skill.
They were not, perhaps, remarkable for size, but they were so neat
and healthy, and had such magnificent trusses of bloom, that one
could hardly hope for anything better. Mr. Goddard also exhibited
a superb group at Regent's Park, on the 22nd and 23rd of last
month, and again occupied the foremost position on the prize-list.
It is worthy of remark that the plants were not only well grown
and superbly flowered, but the flowers were of the finest quality.
Considering that plants with pale-coloured, or flimsy, ill-shaped
blooms require just as much attention and house-room as those
having the finest flowers, it appears remarkable that they are so
frequently met with. Mr. Goddard, of course, saves his own seed,
and there is no valid reason why other private growers should not

124 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

do the same, and make sure of what they are growing. Good seed
Is, however, plentiful in the trade, but it cannot be sold, without
loss, at sixpence or a shilling per packet. At the same meeting,
Mr. Tomkins, of the Sparkhill Nurseries, Birmingham, exhibited
a group of Primula Princess Louise, a grand new white-flowered
variety, with flowers of an immense size, superb form, very wax-like
in texture, with age the flowers changing to a delicate blush. This
was awarded a first-class certificate — an honour to which it was
justly entitled. Gastronema flammea, a pretty bulbous plant, with
orange-red flowers, not unlike those of the useful Vallota purpurea,
to which the plant is closely allied, from Mr. Bull, of Chelsea, also
received a similar award.

Dessert apples and pears were shown in capital condition and
considerable quantities. It appears unjust to omit mention of the
names of the exhibitors of the most meritorious fruit, but all that
can be done here is to give the names of the varieties in the best
state of preservation. Of the apples, the best were Cox's Orange
Pippin, Cornish Gilliflower, Ribston Pippin, and Beinette du
Canada ; and, amongst pears, the best were Bergamot d'Esperen,
Winter Nelis, Easter Beurre, Beurre Bance, and Knight's Monarch
— all first-rate sorts.

At the Camellia Show on the 1st of March several stands of
very fine blooms were staged, but they contained nothing new, the
leading sorts being the old Double White, Cup of Beauty, Con-
spicua, Imbricata, Chandleri elegans, Kelvingtonia, Monarch,
Eximea, Saccoi Nova, Yariegata, Antica, and Countess of Orkney.
Lilies of the Valley were contributed in superb condition, but by far
the best were the specimens exhibited by Mr. Howard, gardener to
J. Brand, Esq., Bedford Hill, Balham, who, for many years past,
has occupied the first place with these beautiful flowers. Eirst-class
certificates were, at the same meeting, conferred upon Pelargonium
Mr. Mutter, a grand golden zonal variety, which, for brilliancy of
colour, vigorous constitution, and perfection of form, is unsur-
passed ; also upon Odonloglossum retusum-latro, a wonderfully
distinct kind, with brilliant orange scarlet flowers ; to a New Eern,
from Mr. Denning, gardener to Lord Londesborough, Tadcaster ;
and upon Masdevallia elepltanceptis, exhibited by Mr. Pilcher,
gardener to S. Pucker, Esq., AVandsworth.

The Hyacinth show on March 15 was the most important event
we shall have to chronicle. The number of exhibitors was not
large, but those who did exhibit acquitted themselves well, and the
extra collections staged by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, and
Mr. W. Paul, cf Waltham Cross, were so large and so fine in
quality, that the exhibition was one of, if not the best displays of
Hyacinths and other bulbous plants yet held at South Kensington.
All the first prizes for Hyacinths, with one exception only, were
carried off by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, although it was the first
occasion upon which they have exhibited these flowers. In the
class for eighteen white-flowered varieties they had superbly-finished
examples of Madame Van der Hoop, LaCandeur, Alba Superbissima,
Baroness Van der Duin, Grand Vainqueur, Orondates, Snowball,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 125

Leviathan, Madame de Stael, Paix de l'Europe, Queen of the
Netherlands, La Grandesse, Prince of Waterloo, Mont Blanc,
Grandeur a Merveille, L'Innocence, Alba Maxima, and Lord
Shaftesbury ; and in the class for eighteen varieties of any colour
they staged Haydn, Macaulay, Leviathan, Grand Lilas, Garibaldi,
La Grandesse, L'Innocence, King of the Blues, Koh-i-noor, Alba
Maxima, General Havelock, FeruckKkan, La Grande Resseinblance,
Charles Dickens, Ida, Laurens Koster, and Blondin, which are the-
best varieties in the several classes. Several new varieties were
staged, but, as shown, they did not surpass, and in several instances
did not equal, varieties already in cultivation, and obtainable, at a
cheap rate. The names and colours are as follows : — Robert Lowe,
pale yellow ; Lord Derby, dark purple ; Marquis of Lome, mauve ;
George Peabody, bright carmine-red ; W. M. Thackeray, deep
maroon-crimson; Lilacina, very light lilac ; Princess Louise, single
white ; and Princess Louise, double carmine-pink.

Tulips were also fine ; the best and most distinct in the com-
petitive groups were : — Pabiola, Rose Aplatis, Yermilion Brilliant;
White Pottebakker, Proserpine, Keizer Kroon, Jaght van Rotter-
dam, Due dAremberg, and Joost van Vondel, all thoroughly good
and useful sorts.

A magnificent collection of roses, in medium sized pots, was
shown by Messrs. Veitch, and a group of Marquise de Castellane, a
continental variety introduced in 1870. This was exhibited by Mr.
Bennett, of Salisbury, and was deservedly awarded a first-class cer-
tificate. There can be no doubt of its being a first-rate pot rose.

The following new plants received certificates, namely, Cyclamen
persicum Snowjiake, from Mr. Goddard ; Amaryllis Chelsoni, a superb
variety, with large crimson flowers of fine form ; Primula JBoviana,
one of the varieties of the Abyssinian Cowslip, with pretty yellow
flowers, from Messrs. Veitch ; Davallia clavata, a pretty little fern,
from Messrs. Rollisson and Son, Tooting; and Areca reyalis, a
noble-growing fern, with beautiful pinnate fronds.

To each of the meetings fine collections of Orchids were contri-
buted by Mr. Denning and Messrs. Rollisson ; of Stove and Green-
house Plants by Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway ; and of Hardy
Herbaceous Plants by Mr. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tot-
tenham. I should like to speak more fully than space will permit
of the lovely plants staged by the last-mentioned exhibitor. The
collections consisted exclusively of hardy-growing plants of moderate
size, and they were much admired, especially by the lady visitors.
One of the most remarkable of the exhibits at the last meeting was
the fine Brown Cos Lettuce and Green Curled Endive exhibited by
Mr. Benjamin Looker, TNorbitou Potteries, Kingston-on-Thames,
which had been grown in the " Acme " frame, of which he is the in-
ventor, without any further protection than that afforded by the
glass. The endive was good, but the lettuces, considering the winter
we have had, were wonderfully fine, for they were of considerable
size, very crisp, and had nice white hearts. I can fully vouch for
the fact that both lettuce and endive were grown in the " Acme "
frame, a3 stated, for I saw them growing in Mr. Looker's garden

126 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

some time before they were exhibited. One of the smaller-sized
frames was, in the early part of the winter, put over a portion of a
double row of lettuce that had been planted out in the ordinary way,
and the difference between those under cover and those unprotected
was certainly remarkable, for, with the exception of a little speck of
green here and there, all the plants that had been exposed to the
weather were dead, whilst those in the frame were as fresh and as
green as they usually are in the summer, although not so large. At
the retail price charged for lettuce during the last two months those
in the frame were worth at least sixpence each, and would have
nearly paid for the cost of the frame.

The exhibition of the Royal Botanic Society was also remarkably
good, but as the exhibitors and subjects were chiefly the same as
those at Kensington the week before, it is not desirable to enter into
details. The cyclamens were unusually fine, and the first prize
for a collection was taken by Mr. James, gardener to "W. F. Watson,
Esq., Redlees, Isleworth, with specimens that have, probably, not
been surpassed, either as regards the size of the plants or the high
quality of the flowers. Mr. James also carried off the first prize for
Cinerarias with handsome specimens. G: Gr.

Potatoes. — In a valuable article on tlie growth of the potato in tlie January
number of the Floral "World, I see the almost universally received statement
made " that the potato is a very exhaustive crop." When I was rector of Llan-
dough, near Cowbridge, Glamorgan, I observed that an old parishioner, named
Thomas Jones, grew his potatoes in the same plot of ground for several consecutive
years, and on asking him how long he had done so, he said, ever since he
came to the cottage, which was fourteen years before, that he had quite as
good crops as at first ; that he had little besides road-scrapings for manure.
Since I came to this parish, I have discovered a still more extraordinary case :
An elderly woman, named Elizabeth Matthews, whose word I can perfectly
rely on, assures me that she, and her mother before her, whom I knew very well,
have grown potatoes in the same piece of garden ground, and on the same spot for
upwards of sixty years, and she finds no diminution or deterioration of the crop.
She has nothing but coal-ashes from her cottage for manure, on which she throws
all the soapsuds when she washes. The soil is a very sandy loam. Thinking this
might interest some of your readers, I venture to trouble you with it.

Hector of Nustox, Nottage. E. Doddridge Knight.

A Note on the Winter. — On Christmas-morning, 9 a.m., my minimum
(Negretti) thermometer indicated a temperature of 5', and the lowest registered
during the night was l-50. The thermometer was placed on a stand fully exposed
to the sky, and four feet from the ground . I knew this will be doubted, but I at
once got out some other superior thermometers, and they all registered within one
degree of each other. About a dozen yards from this stand, under a north wall,
planted in a peat-bed were some camellias. They have been there two winters.
Not a bud has been injured upon them, although a few of the top leaves look a little
brown. Last year the first bloom opened on the 15th of March. A plant of Hedera
Regneriana, near them, is quite spoilt in foliage. On a raised dry rockwork, with
a south aspect, Opuntia Retinesquiana appears quite uninjured, that also stood out
last winter. Chamcerops Fortunei, on the lawn, is quite dead ; it was only a five
year old plant. As I could not risk (on account of the situation it occupied) a plot
of Arelia Sieboldi, I put a mat over it during the severe frost, and it is now ex-
posed again, and quite uninjured. I have left Melianthus, Cannas, etc., under heaps
of clinker, and will, if it interests you, write on the return of spring, a report of
their condition. I expect they are dead. I find Odontoglossum uro Skinneri is as
hardy as Cypripedium insigne. Both were last winter in a greenhouse very often
down to 35' and yet bloomed well.

Near London. F. H.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 127

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

An Old Subscriber. — Salo}). — Seed of the second plant on your list is not, so
far as we are aware, plentiful in the trade. See answer to Mr. Cooper in the March
number at page 95. With respect to the other matter, write to Mr. Cann2ll,
Woolwich.

C. M. — We do not know of any firm who devote especial attention to the subjects
mentioned in your letter, or wa should have been glad to have assisted you.

Kainit and Superphosphate. — G. K., Parrickmacross, Ireland.— -Mix. in
equal proportions, and apply at the rate of 7 cwt. per acre. The letter was too late
tb admit of its being answered last month, and we cannot make any exceptions to
our rule of not answering correspondents privately.

Potatoes on Tiles. — Clericus Hortensis. — The method of growing potatoes
is fully explained in the Floral World for February 1869. We regret the answer
was accidentally omitted from last month's number.

Tan. — G. K. P., Worcester. — Tanners' bark may be employed for making hot-
beds for the cultivation of cucumbers during the summer, but it must have the aid
of a few boards round the outside of the bed to keep it up. It would be a good
plan to have the bed partly below aud partly above the surface. Take out the soil
to a depth of two feet, and the same size as the frame. Then drive in four stout
stakes, one at each corner, to support the frame at a height of about two feet
above the level. Nail rather stout boards to the uprights, and as soon as the frame-
work is completed, the tan can be put in and the frame put upon the uprights. Tread
the tan firmly, and allow a few days for it to settle before putting on the soil. After
the frame is in position, a few barrowfuls of tan, sufficient to reach from six to
twelve inches above the lower edge of the wood, should be added.

Propagating Cases. — S. F. S. 8., Dublin. — Miss Maling's plant case is manu-
factured by Mr. Gray, Horticultural Works, Danvers Street, Chelsea, London. We
figured and described an excellent case in the Floral Would for August, 1870,
which is manufactured by Messrs. Barr and Sugden, 12, King Street, Covent
Garden, W.C.

Date of Show. — TV. Brown, Carmarthen. — The first or second week in August
would be suitable for holding a horticultural exhibition principally supported by
amateur growers. No matter what the date of the exhibition may be, it will be
too early for some of the exhibitors, and too late for others.
Name of Fern. — D. M. — Adiantum iEthiopicum.

Destroying Cockroaches, Crickets, and Woodlice. — An esteemed cor-
respondent, resident at Halifax, sends the following particulars respecting these
pests. He says, " Between three and four years ago I entered the house I am now
residing in, which was then quite new. A short time after we took possession, the
cockroaches made their appearance, and were soon followed by crickets, which
I thoroughly detest. We at once took measures for their extirpation, and happen-
ing to hit upon the right method, we did not have so much trouble as we antici-
pated. We commenced by putting down a few white shallow pots, such as are
used for potted fish and meats, and then half-filled them with water and treacle.
This mixture settled the cockroaches, but the crickets skimmed about on the surface
like so many water-spiders. Treacle alone was then employed, which held them
fast enough. The whole surface was covered, and then we turned up the pots, and
brushed them into a vessel of boiling hot water. As a rule, we emptied them every
morning. The same plan was also tried with woodlice, and, I am happy to say,
with the moet satisfactory results. We have now completely cleared the house of
every one of these pests, and the trouble has been so small, that really it is not
worth mentioning. Treacle is known in some parts of the country as molasses,
and the ordinary price is from two to three pence per pound. I feel assured that if
those who are bothered with either or all of these pests adopt the method here
described, they will not regret having done so."

Begonia fuchsioides for Flowering in Autumn. — John Harris. — Most
certainly this fine begonia can be flowered in the autumn. Several years since, we
used to have it very fine in the autumn months, and always managed it as fol-
lows : — cuttings were put in in April, and grown on liberally all the summer in the
stove, and kept moving all the next winter, and the following spring until June,

128 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

when, if they had gone on well, they were in 12-sized pots, and fine pyramids six
feet high, well furnished with branches from the pot upward. The first week in
June they were set in a corner where they were sheltered from the sun and wind on
the south and west by a nine-foot wall, and from the north and east by a thick
shrubbery. Here they remained till the first week in August, when they were set
in the greenhouse, with gloxinias, acbimenes, cockscombs, and other thiDgs. In this
situation they began to show flower immediately, and before the end of the month
they were one mass of bloom, and so remained until the beginning or middle of
October, when they were thrown away, as others were coming on for the next
season. We attributed their abundant flowering to the partial rest they obtained
the two months they were out-of-doors, and the sudden excitement caused by being
placed in a large airy greenhouse, under the grateful shade of vines, which par-
tially covered the roof.

Hardy Spring-flowering Plants in the Parterre. — W. 8. B. — Prepare
a piece of open ground, rather sandy if possible, and this should be your nursery.
On this ground plant out the various subjects, whether raised from seeds or cuttings,
clear the beds of the geraniums, verbenas, etc., as soon as they begin to decline in
autumn, say early in October, and then transfer, by simple transplanting, the her-
baceous plants from the nursery piece to the parterre, and so arrange them that
their colours in spring will make a tasteful display. When they have dene bloom-
ing, say in the middle of May, take them up and plant them again in the reserve
ground, and so on from year to year, taking care occasionally to get up fresh stocks
from seeds and cuttings, that the old plants may be destroyed. As for subjects, the
best are to be found in such genera as Iberis, Arabis, Alyssum, Cheiranthus, Sapo-
naria, Phlox (alpinus section), Myosotis, and Primula.

Renovating Old Lawn. — A Country Curate. — In sowing grass-seeds to mend
an old lawn, the best mode of procedure is to have the bare places dug over and
enriched with good rotten manure, and all the stones and lumps raked off pre-
paratory to sowing. Then sprinkle the seed pretty thick, and cover with fine
earth. It is a good plan, when the job is only a small one, to sift the earth over
the seed ; but when there is a large space to be operated on, the workmen have a
few good heaps of fine soil, and throw it with the spade. In a majority of cases
old lawns may be revived by simply sprinkling with nitrate of soda two or three
times in the season. The best proportion in which to apply it is at the rate of 31bs.
to one square rod. Lawns that were patchy and sour have with this dressing
become soft and springy with the abundance of fibre produced, and the sward
acquired a beautiful freshness and closeness of growth. Until we had used this
large quantity, and patiently waited for the result, we advised the use of only lib.
per square rod ; and that we can say is enough to work wonders, but the dose
should be repeated at least twice— say three dressings in all, in April, May, and
June. On some lawns there is plenty of grass and no clover, and during very hot
dry weather such lawns become burnt and unsightly, whereas clover does not quickly
burn. To promote the growth of clover, any of the salts of lime may be used.
Even sittings of lime core from the builders will be good as a top-dressing, hut a
quicker result may be obtained by the use of superphosphate of lime in the same
proportions as we recommend the use of nitrate of soda ; that is, from lib. to 31bs.
per square rod, according to the state of things to be remedied.

Basket Plants. — B. S. IT. — The easiest and most effective basket plants are
easily discovered. All the trailing Tropa^olums, and especially those of the Lob-
bianum race, are suitable. Campanula garganica makes a beautiful blue fringe on
the edge of a basket. Pilogyne suavis and Mikania scandens make elegant green
wreaths four or five feet long. Thunbergia alata is peculiar as well as elega n.
There is nothing else like it either in style or colour. Then there are the ivy-leaved
geraniums, and the pretty variegated geranium called Manglesii, with petunias,
verbenas, and Lobelia erinus, all suitable for baskets.

Heating Small Greenhouse.— IT. F.—A small conical boiler, and pipes of
two or three inches diameter, would produce the kind of heat you want. The boiler
would have to be outside, and coke would be the proper fuel. The fact is, these
small houses cannot be heated satisfactorily ; and when correspondents expect us to
settle the matter in a word like magic, they expect an impossibility. Nor can we
advise you about the height and pitch of your house. If you wish to grow great
plants, have the roof high enough for them ; if little plants, have it high enough
for yourself.

CLEMATIS STAR OF I

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 129

HYBKID CLEMATIS.

( With Coloured Plate of Cripps' " Star of India.")

|HOUGH many times mentioned, described, and eulogized
in the Flobal World, the new Hybrid Clematis may
fairly allege against us that they have not yet had wbat
the world would call their " meed of praise." It is
greatly to be feared they cannot have it now, though the
publication of a figure of a fair sample of the race affords the oppor-
tunity, and the subject is peculiarly seasonable. The hybrid clematis
are indeed equally interesting, useful, and beautiful, and it is one
part of the debt we owe to them to say that in absolute merit they
far exceed our powers of eulogy. It is a most curious circumstance
that this new race of plants should come upon us, as it were, with a
rush. Nobody expected them, nobody wanted them ; very few prac-
tical florists would have conceded the possibility of their production ;
and now that the race comprises scores of magnificent varieties, it is
almost past belief that they exist at all, so splendid are tbey as com-
pared with the parent plants from which they have been derived by
systematic crossing.

Premising that these plants produce a long succession and a great
profusion of large handsome flowers, varying considerably in colours,
but in every case extremely beautiful ; and the next most important
of their characters is hardiness, for they need no protection under
glass, but may take their place in the flower-garden and remain there
to illustrate in an agreeable manner the hackneyed phrase, " beauti-
ful for ever." But where is their place in the flower-garden ?
Strange to say it is in a certain sense everywhere, for most versatile
are their talents, if we may so speak of them. They may be trained
to walls and trellises to make glorious sheets of leaf and flower.
They may be allowed to fringe the overhanging brow of a rockery ;
cover a gaunt sunny bank with a drapery of startling magnificence ;
or furnish in the fashion of bedding plants large compartments on
the lawn, and in the wilderness where an even growth and sumptuous
flowers are indispensable. The fact is their thread-like shoots can be
trained up or down, or on a dead level. Many a lover of flowers who
has seen a grand Pleroma at a flower show, and sighed to enjoy the
ownership of such a treasure, may now be at peace and cease to envy
the wealthy. The hybrid clematis make glorious specimen plants
for the conservatory, and no Pleroma or Franciscea can surpass
them — perhaps cannot equal them — when the best varieties are
managed in the best way.

The hybrid clematis will thrive in any good garden soil that is
well drained, and, generally speaking, adapted to bedding plants. But
the soil which suits them best is a light, rich, sandy loam; the lighter
the soil the better, but it cannot be too deep or too well drained.
They are hardy enough for all except the bleakest climates in these
islands, but a warm sheltered position and full exposure to sunshine
are conditions that conduce greatly to their prosperity, and, conse-
vol. vi. — no. v. 9

130 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

quentlv, to their abundant flowering. The best way to multiply them
is to put down layers in August, but half-ripe shoots may be easily
struck in summer under hand-glasses or in frames.

"When grown as bedding plants the hybrid clematis should be
planted two to three feet apart in large clumps. A number of
varieties may be mixed, as they all present shades of crimson and
purple, but the most decided effect will be produced by employing
one showy variety for a bed, or a number of varieties distinctly
arranged in bands or rows. Some time in June the beds should be
covered with two inches depth of half-rotten manure put on care-
fully. The plants will soon cover and hide it, and will enjoy the
moist surface it will ensure them during the heat of the summer.
As the plants progress they must be pegged down a little higher
than verbenas, and quite as regularly. All the growth they make
should be left until the month of April following, when the whole of
the plants should be cut back to within six inches of the ground.

"When employed to cover walls and trellises, it is not well to tie
them in from top to toe, as a drill-sergeant would, if he dared, tie in
his young recruits. Take them up a certain height properly ; make
them very secure, and then let them fall over improperly ; just as a
bit of grand old ivy will tumble from the top of a tower, and suddenly
stay in mid air, as a magical fringe to a harsh ungainly outline. As
it is desirable to cover walls and trellises quickly, secure strong plants
and do justice to them. If a border must be made for them, say
turfy loam, sand, and rotten manure equal parts, and the border to
be three feet wide and two feet deep, and the plants not more than
six feet apart ; better if three feet apart to begin with, to ensure a
quick investment.

When grown on rockeries and rough banks, they should not be
pruned at all. Give them a deep bed of light rich soil in well chosen
positions, and for ever after, so far as regards cultivation, forget them.
"When grown as conservatory specimens, pot them in 11 or 13-
inch pots in a good light loamy compost, and grow them out of doors
until they begin to flower. The best form in which to train them is
the pyramid, or a blunt cone, but that is a matter of taste, and they
may be as easily trained to a watch-glass form as a verbena or chry-
santhemum. The trellis must be adapted to the form required, and
in some cases hazel rods, in others stout wires will be necessary. It
is of the utmost importance in the cultivation of the plants in pots
or tubs to keep them regularly watered, and occasionally syringed
with clean soft water.

Though so new to our gardens, the varieties of clematis already
exceed all average requirements, and it is necessary in connection
with this paper that we should make a selection. We shall be
content with only twelve, though we might find fifty varieties worth
growing. Those who want more than we recommend can easily
obtain them, but we must beg that they will secure our lot first, for
we believe them to be stars of the first magnitude in the constellation
Clematis.

Star of India must have first place as the subject of our figure.
It is but poorly represented in the plate, though the portrait is truth-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 13L

ful, and bits the truth of nature as nearly as art can do. The flowers
are four or five inches in diameter, the colour richest violet purple,
with a reddish purple band in the centre of each petal. It is pro-
bably the finest clematis yet raised.

Lady Caroline Nevill produces flowers of great size, often seven
inches in diameter. The colour is a most delicate lavender-tinted
blush, with broad purplish lilac band in the centre of each petal.

Tunbridgensis has flowers averaging five inches in diameter ; the
form perfect ; the colour dark blue, shaded with purple. The neat
growth and abundant flowering of this variety render it a first-rate
bedding plant.

The three foregoing splendid novelties are now being offered for
the first time at 21s. per plant by Messrs. Cripps and Son, the Nur-
series, Tunbridge Wells. The varieties which follow may be obtained
generally in the trade at two or three shillings each, or less.

Jac/cmani, one of the most interesting, because the type of the
new race, and one of the first among mauy splendid varieties obtained
by Messrs. Jackman, of Woking. The flowers average six inches
across, the colour violet purple.

Rubro-violacea, brilliant reddish violet, makes a remarkably fine
bed.

Viticella ametliystina, pale violet blue, very distinct. Fine for
beds or specimens.

Magnified, flowers very large, colour soft purple, with reddish
bars, which give to the flower a star-like appearance. Fine for con-
servatory specimens.

Prince of Wales, flowers very large and produced in great abun-
dance ; colour deep purple, with red bars.

Rubella, a remarkably fine variety, producing an astonishing
profusion of massive flowers of a solemn claret colour. For speci-
men culture and for trellises this cannot be surpassed.

Lanuginosa pallida, clear lilac, with reddish bars, makes a fine
bed.

Lanuginosa Candida, pure white, a good companion to the fore-
going.

Velutina purpurea, flowers very large, colour rich maroon-purple.

This is the best time in the whole year to purchase and plant
clematis. The plants are kept in pots at the nurseries, and are
generally of sufficient size to produce a good effecL the first season
if they are put out at not more than three feet apart. Those to be
grown in pots or tubs should be shifted at once into the pots they
are to flower in, and placed in a sheltered, but sunny spot out of
doora. It would be well to allow all the growth to remain, and train
it in carefully to make the most of the plants the first season. We
should allow them to remain in the same pots two seasons, giving
them weak liquid manure the second season when growing freely.
In the autumn of the second season, it would be well to shake them
out and repot in pots one or two sizes larger with fresh light soil, and
in the succeeding spring they might be severely pruned to promote
a free growth of young shoots for the production of flowers of fine
quality. S. H.

132 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

KIDNEY BEANS.

[FDNEY BEANS are universally appreciated, and peer
and peasant are almost equally interested in their cul-
tivation, for, amongst the summer vegetables, when
young and juicy, they are equally elegant, delicate, and
wholesome. In English cookery the ripe seeds are
much less used than on the continent, where, for haricot dishes,
the small white-seeded sorts, in a dried state, are in constant request.
It is a question if the ripe seeds of any kidney beans (Phaseolus) are
altogether wholesome ; we incline to the belief that they possess
properties which render them objectionable as food, but there can
be no question about the green pods, as we are accustomed to eat
them, carefully cooked, of a fine green colour, and tender as the
slice of butter that the prudent cook will never fail to place on the
top of the smoking pile when they have been drained and dished
for table. An invalid may eat a dish of French beans or scarlet-
runners late at night without danger, and that is a peculiar test of
the wholesomeness of the dish ; for, with the exception of spinach,
there is scarcely any other vegetable that a weak stomach dare
encounter when the mid-day hours have passed.

Kidney beans will grow fairly, and produce useful fruit in the
most trashy soils and unpromising situations. There is scarcely a
plant known to the cultivator of vegetables that will endure long-
continued drought with so little harm as the dwarf French bean ;
and as to our old familiar friend, the scarlet-runner, it is no uncom-
mon thing to see it thriving in a sort of cinder-bed, heavily shaded
by trees, in the garden of the cottager whom the love of beer has
seduced, and in whose garden, therefore, " the thorn and the thistle
growr broader and higher." But the capabilities of a plant to endure
insult are not sufficient to justify careless cultivation. For that,
indeed, it should be shown that good treatment renders the kidney
bean unproductive, while a hap-hazard life is conducive to its pros-
perity. It so happens, as matter of fact, that this plant enjoys
good living, and never fails to make an ample return for it. The
lesson is consequently patent — it must be well grown in order to
attain complete development, and make its owner happy by its
bounteous dower of delicious fruit. A deep, fertile loam suits the
kidney bean to perfection. The situation should be open, sunny,
and sheltered. The plant is one of the most tender, and though it
bears drought in a remarkably satisfactory manner, cold and exces-
sive moisture soon bring it down to the dust or mud. The soil for
runners should be especially well prepared by trenching and manur-
ing, but the dwarf kidney beans do not so much need manure,
though they will always pay for it, if in other respects they are
managed in a sensible manner.

Now, as everybody grows these plants, it may seem an over-
stretch of nicety to talk about " sensible manner," but we are
bound to begin finding fault wTith everybody, by saying that every-
body sows the seed too thick, and leaves too many plants on the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 133

ground. The weakest-growing sorts of kidney beans known will
cover a square foot each plant, and therefore we may properly allow
for the weakest a space of two feet between the rows, and of one
foot between the plants. It is quite a common practice to leave
the strong-growing sorts four to six inches apart, so we have a fair
case for grumbling, even at the first start. The distances are to be
determined by a consideration of the habit of the variety and the
strength of the soil. On our fat loam, in a moist valley, we find
that the Long-podded Negro dwarf bean may be in rows three feet
apart, and the plants two feet asunder in the row, and then we can
scarcely get amongst them to gather, so completely do they cover
the ground. As for runners, we always leave them a foot apart at
least, and might leave them double that distance with the certainty
of a good plant, and have the stakes heavily garlanded soon after Mid-
summer-day. It is well to sow in deep drills, even if they are a
day or two longer in coming up than they would be if sown shallow.
Cover the seed three inches at least, and be patient. Tour neigh-
bour, who covers with a mere dusting of soil, will have plants
before you do, but in a run of years the deep-sowing system will
win, for we do not merely need to see the plant sprout, we also
desire to see it grow on without a check, and flower and fruit freely.
The best day in all the year for sowing kidney beans is May-
day. Where an early supply is wanted, it is customary to sow in
pots and boxes in March and April, and keep them in pits and
frames until the plants can be put out. It is by no means wise so
to act, and, as a rule, the man who sows in the open on the 1st of
May will have the advantage of one who takes a lot of trouble to
gain a week or so in the first gathering of fruit. The earliest sorts
of dwarf beans may be sown in open borders about the middle of
April with a fair prospect of success, especially if the rows can be
protected by means of such a contrivance as Looker's Acme Frame,
or by bell-glasses or flower-pots in the event of cold weather occur-
ring after the plants have begun to push through the ground. The
crop may certainly be hastened by the adoption of simple measures
of protecting or coaxing, and, indeed, early supplies of dwarf beans
may be obtained most easily by sowing at the end of March, in
frames, and giving air cautiously on fine days, more and more freely,
until in the end the lights are removed altogether. But our anxiety
has always been, not to obtain early, but late crops of kidney beans ;
and for this simple reason, that when they first come in, vegetables
are plentiful, but, as they are going out, vegetables become scarce.
Thus, in the earliest days of French beans and runners, there are at
command cauliflowers, peas, spinach, broad beans, and new potatoes.
.Rapidly these drop out of the list, and, as the season advances,
kidney beans and marrows are almost the only vegetables of a delicate
kind available. For just this reason we do not usually sow until
the 1st of June, and we never miss sowing two or three sorts — the
common scarlet-runner being always one — about the 15th or 20th
of June. In southern counties, and especially on light soils, sow-
ings may be made as late as the first week in July, but on our cold
soil that is too late, for just as the plants should be in full bearing,

134 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the fogs, frosts, and heavy rains take the shine (with the fruit as a
make-weight) clean out of them.

All the sorts that require stakes pay better for staking than
trailing, provided only that stakes can be obtained for moderate labour
or reasonable outlay. There are a few valuable varieties that rise
only three or four feet high, for which mere refuse brushwood will
suffice. But if it is out of the question to stake the running sorts,
they may be kept in a compact state of growth by constant pinching
away of the points of the shoots, which should be done simul-
taneously with the gathering of the pods as often as possible. It
is by this mode of procedure that the scarlet-runner is kept in a
dwarf state as a field crop, and not by the sowing of a dwarf sort,
which many people believe the market-gardeners to possess, and
keep to themselves. In the books we find it recommended to pinch
back all running sorts, even when they are well staked ; but this is
neither necessary nor desirable, for they bear more abundantly if
allowed to grow to their full height unchecked, and therefore the
cultivator may give them the tallest stakes he can afford, and con-
sider a ladder a needful agent in the gathering of the crop. When
string is used for training runner beans, it should be slack enough
to allow for contraction in wet weather. When runner beans are
grown on hot, dry soils, the seed should be sown in manured
trenches, to facilitate the operation of watering ; for if ever water is
given to this crop, it must be in considerable quantities, with an
interval of a week or so between the several supplies. The
dwarfest sorts, however, are far better adapted to starving soils
than any of the runners. The roots of all the sorts may be pre-
served during the winter in sand for planting out in May, precisely
as dahlias are treated ; but as seed is cheap, and produces a fruitful
plant as rapidly as roots, the saving of the roots is a sheer waste of
time, and should be practised only by those who want amusement.

The gathering of the crop is really an important part of the
general management of kidney beans. If allowed to hang too long,
the pods become stringy, and tough, and tasteless, and the plants
cease to produce as they should do. It is really better to gather all
the produce on the instant of its becoming fit for use, and throw it
away, than allow any accumulation on the plants of mature pods,
because the maturing process puts a stop to bearing ; and at the
close of the season, when well-managed kidney beans are invaluable,
those that have been allowed to ripen seeds are absolutely worthless.
But the reader will ask, impatiently, perhaps, if he may not save a
few seeds, as his father, grandfather, and great-grandfather did ?
Tes, certainly ; save a few, by all means, if you wish, but do it
properly, both to ensure a maximum of green pods and a maximum
of ripe seeds ; in other words, to obtain all the plant can give you,
instead of half or two-thirds its proper produce. To solve this
problem is most easy. If you wish to save a little seed, leave a few
plants, or a row, according to requirements, altogether untouched.
Let them have plenty of room for the enjoyment of the sunshine,
but do not remove from them a single green pod — in other words,
let them ripen every pod they produce from the very first, and jou

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 135

will have seed of the finest quality. From those you gather green
pods, gather all, and you will have an enormous production, lasting
until the cruel autumnal frosts make a miserable havoc of the
plantation.

About fifty sorts of kidney beans have been grown in the expe-
rimental garden at Stoke Newington. It is equally agreeable and
surprising to be able to say that a considerable proportion of them
are good, but, as a matter of course, very few are needed in any private
garden. We have made a selection of varieties for several classes
of cultivators, and hope they will be useful, though unaccompanied
with the descriptions that might easily be appended by reference to
our notes of the trial they were submitted to last year.

Dwarf Kidnet Beans. — The best for forcing, and to sow on
warm slopes for early crops, are Sion Souse and Sir Joseph Paxton.
The best for main crops, a handsome plant, and prodigiously fruit-
ful, is the Long-Podded Negro. The following are also good:
Mexican Salmon, Fulmer's, and Bun-coloured. The following are
not worth growing, except for some special purpose : Newington
Wonder, Dwarf Battersea, Black-speckled.

Intermediate Kidney Beans.— The Paris Market, rising only
three to five feet high, is invaluable for its abundant production of
large, handsome, tender beans. The Canterbury dwarf rises about
three feet, and is the better for being staked.

Tall-runner Kidney Beans. — The two best and handsomest
of this class are Giant White and Common Scarlet. These should
be grown in every garden, the white being singularly beautiful and
highly productive. The best of such as we may call curious
varieties, is the Blue or Purple-podded, which grows about five or
six feet high, producing dark bronzy leaves, violet-coloured flowers,
and pods of a violet-purple colour. It is moderately productive,
and the pods make an excellent dish, being green and tender when
cooked. All the white and yellow-podded runners are to be avoided,
except by those who have become accustomed to their use, and
understand how to cook them. The best of them, both for exhi-
bition and the table, is the Yelloiv-podded Algerian. The following
are good, and well worth growing, though of secondary importance :
White Butch, White Lady, White Scimitar, New Zealand, Liver-
coloured, Black-seeded, Painted Lady, or York and Lancaster. The
last is extremely pretty. S. H.

To Destroy Earthworms.— B. S.— The following is a recipe originally pub-
lished in the Garden Oracle for 1864 : Corrosive sublimate 1 oz., common salt 1
tablespoonful, boiling water 1 pint ; stir till dissolved. Pour the mixture into 9
gallons of rain-water, and water the lawn or the soil in flower-pots, wherever,
indeed, the worms that annoy are to be found. We must confess we do not under-
stand how any real difficulty about getting rid of earthworms can arise in any
garden. Lime-water can be made with the least possible amount of trouble, and is
always effectual.

136 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE BEGINNEE IN GEAPE GEOWING.— No. IV.

BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

[IN former communications under this heading the subject
has been dealt with in a general manner, so as to be of
assistance to grape growers of all classes, but before
proceeding further it is desirable that something should
be said about the cultivation of the grape-vine in the
greenhouse. Such matters as the propagation and the growth of
the vines during the first year of their existence, and the preparation
of the border, of course, apply with as much force to the green-
house as they do to the vinery. But a few of the minor details
differ, and it is well that they should be explained at once.

It is not an unfrequent occurrence to meet with the assertion
that good grapes cannot be grown in a house occupied during the
greater part of the year with flowering and other plants, and, to
prevent any misapprehension, I will state at once that these asser-
tions are not strictly true. Where grapes of the finest quality are
required, and separate structures are provided for fruit and plant-
growing, it certainly would not be wise to crowd the vineries with
plants. There are periods, such as when the grapes are in flower,
and when the berries are colouring, when the presence of plants is
objectionable, because of the moisture arising from them, but with
due care, when the vines are allowed to grow of their own accord,
without the use of fire-heat, no serious harm will result therefrom.
Eor instance, by the time the vines are in flower, the season will be
sufficiently advanced to admit of the ventilators being opened to,
their fullest extent, and thus prevent the slightest possibility of
the "setting" process being interfered with through a stagnant
atmosphere. Also when the berries are colouring nearly all the
plants grown in a greenhouse may be removed to the open air, not
only without injury, but with decided benefit to them. Again, if it
is desired to keep the grapes long after the season for filling the
greenhouse with plants for the winter, the bunches can be cut with
a piece of the spur, and the end of the branch inserted in bottles of
water suspended in a dry and airy room. The berries will keep
plump and retain their full flavour for a considerable length of time.
I am not alluding to keeping grapes until far into the following
spring, because there are only a few sorts that have a skin thick
enough to allow of their being kept in good condition so long ;Ntjut
I refer to the most desirable sorts for the greenhouse, such as the
Black Hamburgh and Eoyal Ascot.

The shape and size of the greenhouse vinery must, of course, be
regulated by the position it is to occupy, and by the taste and cir-
cumstances of the owner. I would, however, strongly recommend
a span roof rather wide and lofty. The front lights should be
rather high, say three feet above the brickwork, to admit the light
to the plants grown under the vines. The borders should be entirely

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

137

outside, and the vines brought through the wall just underneath the
plate of wood upon which the front sashes rest. With respect to
the internal fittings, a stage should be erected in the centre, and a flat
stage, about two feet in width on the two sides, with three feet walk
between the sides and centre. The sashes at the side should be matte
to open, as well as providing ventilators in the roof, because in the
spring and summer season a free circulation of air must be main-
tained in congenial weather for the sake of the health of the plants.
The accompanying fignre of a span roof greenhouse vinery,

SECTION OF GREENHOUSE VINERY.

erected by Messrs. Hereman and Morton, affords a capital illus-
tration of the structure here recommended for the cultivation of
both plants and grapes.

The roof must not be covered with a complete canopy of green
foliage, or it will be next to impossible to grow plants of any kind
satisfactorily, for they will be drawn up so much as to become, by
the middle of the summer, quite unsightly. A good distance at
which to plant vines apart in the greenhouse is four feet, and then
by training the branches rather close to the main root, and by
keeping the laterals well stopped, the plants will receive plenty of
light for maintaining a healthy growth.

CARPET BEDDING.

BY HENRY CANNELL,
The Nursery, Station Road, Woolwich, S.E.'

HE beautiful illustration of an embroidery border which
appeared in the March number of the Floral World has
induced me to offer a few remarks upon the style of
planting there represented, by way of supplement to
the observations which accompanied the picture. Some
twenty years ago the flower garden was simply a confused mass of
colour, and the improvement that has been effected since that time
is simply wonderful ; although at one period the planter's whole
attention was devoted to producing a brilliant display of colour, and

138 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

all bedding plants not having flowers of a scarlet, yellow, or blue
hue, were looked upon as of little service, and were quietly elbowed
out, to make way for those haviug flowers of the desired colour.
Indeed, it was thought that the greatest glare of colour was the
chief merit of a well-kept garden ; but Nature has taught us that
colour is very sparingly used, and when applied it is very bright and
attractive. Another lesson we have also learnt from Nature is, that
other tints, particularly those approaching to the various shades of
green, when well blended together, are extremely beautiful ; and
consequently curious, aud highly-coloured leaf plants are fast gaining
the respect of all those who have a refined taste for the love of
Nature. I fear, however, that very few, even of those who like to
see their gardens planted in the best possible style, have a fair idea
of the splendid and rich effect that can be produced with ornamental-
leaved plants only; for those who have not seen Alternantheras,
Echeverias, Golden Feather, and other low-growing bedding plants in
their proper colours, cannot form an idea of the beautiful appearance
they have when properly arranged.

There have been many very pretty arrangements of these low-
growing plants in Battersea Park, and those who have had an
opportunity of seeing them have no doubt learnt much respecting
them. The selection of the colours used in this park has unfor-
tunately been too much limited, for they consisted almost exclu-
sively of magenta, yellow, and white ; and, as the two latter do not
contrast well, they ought not to be planted side by side. The
prettiest and best beds, last season, were at Messrs. Veitch's Nur-
sery, Chelsea ; these were oblong raised block beds, between, and
abutting against, the gable end of the greenhouse, on each side of
the entrance. And when seen, these raised mounds, tapering up-
wards, each having its beautifully-squared edges, might have been
taken for pedestals for statuary. They averaged about eighteen
inches high, five feet long, three feet wide at bottom, and about
eighteen inches at top, and were planted in great taste with diminu-
tive plants. Golden Feather, Alternantheras, Echeverias, and a small-
growing bright blue Lobelia, formed the outline, and the panels
were well shaped out in various designs, such as diamonds, triangles,
half-rounds, etc. For neatness and taste, I believe the designs
eclipsed all that has yet been attempted. The only flowering plant
was the Lobelia, for the sake of its blue colour. At Kew they had
a very large bed intended for this style, but, by intermixing tall
plants, a complicated design was the result, and the required effect
was totally lost. It was at best merely a curiosity without beauty.
The next best design to Messrs. Veitch's was, in my opinion, in my
trial garden, and was simply an ordinary flat, raised about ten inches,
with its sides slightly sloping towards the walk.

Now comes one of the main features in making these beds. In
the winter season we collected as much as was likely to be required
of fresh cow-dung one-third, and the remaining two-thirds adhesive
loam. These were roughly put together until bedding-time, the bed
made the shape required, with its sides so as to be perfectly straight,
flat, and level when all was planted and finished. This done, we

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 139

marked out the centre design as required. Every plant was then put
exactly in its place — not one-eighth of an inch out of their proper
line and height. After the centre was finished, so that the sides
could he easily reached from the grass or path, we commenced
plastering and building up the sides with the cow-dung and loam.
This was merely to keep the edges up throughout the season, and as
we proceeded with the work we inserted a perfectly regular line of
Echeverias. Either secunda or secunda glauca will do, although the
latter is the best. Sempervivum califomicum is also very pretty, and
quite hardy. These were in the centre of the six-inch edging. One
regular-sized plant was used, and put at a regular distance from
plant to plant, otherwise the beauty of the bed would have been
spoiled. After this, we proceeded to finish the planting of the bed.
I struck mine out last year with my boy's bow and arrow, which
gave me a continuation of small half-round shapes on both sides,
making the centre a running line of diamonds, which were formed
with Lobelia pumila grandiflora (blue), Golden Feather (yellow),
Alternanthera (orange and red), and the remaining half circle was
filled up with various plants for a trial. To give a slight idea how
attractive this bed was, many persons asked if they might examine it
the second time; and it is difficult to say how astonished they were
when they learnt how simple were the arrangements.

The most chaste and lovely beds may be made with the following
plants : — A margin all round of Echeveria secunda glauca, which is
of a beautiful bluish grey tint ; then plant a broad band of Alter-
nanthera paronychioides, which soon after planting turns a beautiful
orange red at the points ; then make either squares, circles, or
diamonds in the centre, at equal distances, and fill them with Pyre-
thrum Golden Feather, which is the most effective, accommodating,
good-natured plant in the world, as it will stand having the halves
of the leaves pinched off without sustaining the slightest injury ;
then finally fill up the remaining space with Alternanthera amosna,
which is the brightest coloured of all. For complete success in a
bed of this kind, the soil should be made firm at the edge, and cut
off perfectly level, and the Echeveria should be planted sideways,
and every one in a straight even line ; this is one of the main points for
a bed of this description. Other fine and effective beds may be made
with the following : — The margin Sempervivum califomicum, which
is a peculiar tint of green, with nearly black points, and requires to
be planted in the same way as the Echeveria ; then a broad band of
Antennaria tomentosa, which is one of the finest dwarf silvery grey
carpet-like plants we possess; next a broad band of Pyrethrum
Golden Feather, and fill the centre with Iresine Lindeni, a ^raud
sanguineous red-leaved plant of dwarf habit, and a pleasing shade of
colour ; but it will require pinching at intervals to prevent it over-
topping the other things.

The following plants are the best adapted for this style of plant-
ing, but there are many more which might be employed by persons
who understood their growth : —

Pyrethrum Golden Feather is exceedingly pretty and cheap. A
one shilling packet of seed would produce about five hundred plants.

140 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

These ought to be small, just large enough to handle, and pricked
out, with a small stick, about four inches apart, after the others are
planted and finished. The plants can be pinched in with the finger
and thumb to any required size.

Alternantheras are fine. A. amcena is much the best in colour.
It requires to be well hardened, and planted sufficiently thick to
produce an effect at once. The hardiest of all tbe Alternantheras
is A. paronychioides.

Lobelia Pumila grandiflora. — This is a gem, because of its compact
growth and bright blue flowers. It affords a fine relief, and
never exceeds more than about five inches high, and about as far
through.

Echeverias are exceedingly valuable, especially E. secunda glauca,
E. glauca metallica, and E. metallica, the two former for edging
purposes, and the latter for the centre. They should be planted so
as to nearly touch each other.

Sempervivum californicum is quite hardy, and almost equal to the
dwarf Echeverias, if the young offsets are pulled off as they appear.

Achillea umbellata. — This is a beautiful white-leaved little plant,
grows very dense, and almost hardy, never exceeds more than about
four inches high, and makes a fine line between Alternantheras and
Lobelias.

Antennaria tomentosa. — This is fine for margins, as it is very
white in its foliage, and exceedingly dwarf; never grows higher than
moss ; and for a yellow-foliaged plant of the same character grow
the following —

Lysimachia nummularia atirea. — This is exceedingly pretty, and
the yellow is very dark and quite distinct from other yellow plants
recommended for this purpose ; grows no higher than moss, and is
quite hardy.

Veronica incana and Santolina incana are also admirable little
plants, growing about four to five inches high, and about as much
through ; the latter will grow larger, but can easily be kept down to
any required height.

Achyrocline iSaundersoni. — This is equal to the preceding, quite
hardy, very white, and makes a splendid miniature bush or line, and
can be cut into any size and height below eight inches.

Teucrium aureum and folium are quite equal for their frosted ap-
pearance ; neither of these grow above three inches high, and cover
the ground admirably.

Thymus citriodorus aureus. — This is about the same growth and
height, with a yellow variegation, and is unquestionably fine, and
one of the prettiest little plants that we possess for edging small
beds.

The above include all the best very dwarf white and yellow
foliage plants suitable for the flower garden. For a rather taller
growth select —

Eactylis eleyantissima, Polemonium variegatum, Coprosma JBauer-
iana variegatum. — The latter has a good bit of yellow in its variega-
tion, but all are first-class showy and effective bedding plants, as
each can be cut to any required height and size.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 141

Mesembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum and Lonicera aurea
reticulata are different in character from the preceding, and require
pegging down occasionally to regulate the branches as they trail on
the ground.

There are several taller-growing plants that may be used with
admirable effect in a large design, and others topped and pegged
down, such as Iresine Lindeni, Fuchsia Golden Treasure, Coleus,
various, Amaranthus melancholicus ruber. Where these plants can
be used in the design, Geranium Brilliantissima for a brilliant scarlet
would have a grand effect to set off other colours. Many Succulents
can be used in small corners, but by all means do not plant any
kind of tall-growing plants, no matter how handsome ; if they are
planted, the fine effect will be lost all the season. I feel convinced
that if this style was once put in practice, with — first, Golden
Feather, then Lobelia, next Cerastium, then Alternant hera, then
finished off with any kind of the dwarf Echeveria, the effect would
be so striking, even in wet bad weather, all through the season, that
small choice beds would in future be planted almost exclusively
with these dwarf-coloured foliage plants. It must be remembered,
too, that we do not have to wait for leaf effects as we do for flowers.

PORTULACAS FOE THE FLOWER GARDEN.

BY A KENTISH GABDENEE.

HE constant accessions to the number of our bedding-
out plants have quite driven these out of the field, but
I trust this notice may induce some of our readers to
bestow upon them a share of their favour, as they are
deserving subjects. It is true they are somewhat more
troublesome to raise than the hardy annuals, but their beauty more
than repays for any amount of trouble they may take to bring them
into use ; and, as compared to the little extra trouble, the beauty of
these little plants is an important consideration. Indeed, I cannot
imagine anything half so chaste and beautiful in the whole list of
annuals, being quite distinct from any commonly grown ; and their
neat habit of growth, and the chaste markings of the flowers, render
them most fit of all to be favourites with the ladies. But to grow
them satisfactorily they must have special treatment.

The seed should be had iu separate colours. I used to be
supplied with a collection of twelve different colours, out of which
I could select at the time of flowering eight sufficiently distinct to
warrant their being separated, but the remaining four differed so
little from the others, that a casual observer could hardly assign to
them any peculiar distinctness. That, however, is of but little
consequence when compared to the advantage of knowing that you
can depend upon the majority coming true to the colours given, as
when planting you can the better balance the colours, by arranging
the most distinct at such distances as will secure an even distribu-

142 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

tion of the most prominent tints over the bed, and by filling in
the doubtful ones between, all risk of there being a predominance
of any colour over one part of the bed will be avoided. For those
who might not care to take the trouble to raise them in separate
colours, a shilling packet of mixed seed will be sure to repay the
cultivator for all the pains he may take with them.

In preparing the pots or pans in which to sow the seed, let them
first be thoroughly cleansed and dried, and then half filled with
broken potsherds for drainage. Next pound into dust some old
mortar, and some old bricks into small nodules, about half the size
of hazel-nuts. Take equal quantities of these pounded bricks, silver-
sand, and dry leaf-soil. Fill the pots to within an inch of the rims
with this mixture, and give it a gentle soaking of water. When
this is drained away, sow the seed (which is very fine) thinly on the
surface, and cover with a very little dry silver-sand. If the pots
are placed on a warm shelf in the greenhouse, and carefully shaded,
they will not require any water until the young plants are showing
themselves ; or they may be raised in a warm room with a southern
window. But here they may require water once or twice before
the seed germinates, as the air of a room is usually more drying
than that of a plant-house ; and the water must be given with a very
fine rose.

Sow the seed immediately, and plant in the first or second week
in June. It will be important to remember that water is the
greatest enemy of these plants; but from the time you can detect
the first appearance -of the seeds germinating, you cannot give them
too much heat, as they delight in a dry heated atmosphere, and
thrive best when they have but little water and an unbroken con-
tinuance of brilliant sunshine. When the plants are well up, in
very bright weather give them water twice a week, not more ; and
not through a rose now, but lay a small convex potsherd just over
the rim of the pot, upon this pour the water gently from the spout
of a small water-can, and by tdting the pot or pan gently on one
side, the water will distribute itself over the whole surface without
damping the succulent leaves of the young plants. Sow the
seed thinly, and grow them on in these pots until they are bedded
out.

Now for the bed ; and on the proper construction of this
depends in a great measure the success of the cultivator. In the
first place, take away all the soil in the bed twelve inches deep, and
place in the bottom six inches of brickbats or flints ; upon this put
another six inches of the same mixture as advised above for sowing
the seed in, but this need not be broken up so fine ; into this prick
out the plants three inches apart, give a little water, and shade for a
couple of days if the weather is very bright, and then leave them to
fate. If the summer should be favourable, the result will be a
brilliant bed of colours that cannot be surpassed if the whole range
of annuals were grown and shown by the side of them. In an
ordinary summer they will produce an effect that wall surprise many
who have never grown them. If we could foretell what the
coming summer was going to be, and that it would be a bright

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 143

sunny one, we might dispense with tbe drainage beneath the
plants, and use the mixture only ; but in the absence of any fore-
knowledge, those who intend to grow them had best adopt the
precaution of using it, as a thorough system of drainage is at ail times
essential to success.

CINEEAEIAS.

BY J. JAMES,
Head Gardener, Redleea, Isleworth, W.

jHE inferiority in form and colour of the flowers of the
majority of the seedling plants, when compared with the
best of the named varieties, is so great that I cannot
understand how any one can tolerate them in their con-
servatoi y. The trouble of propagating a stock of plants
from cuttings is undoubtedly greater than from seed ; but the
task is by no means difficult, and the advantages are more than
sufficient to repay any little extra labour and attention. A few
observations will be made upon raising seedling plants ; but as t
am anxious to encourage the cultivation of the best of the named
sorts now in command, the remarks will be principally devoted to
giving directions for their propagation and after management. The
details are, however, very simple, and the whole matter can be dis-
missed in a very few words.

To secure a stock of offsets early in the season, the plants should
have the flower-stems removed immediately the flowers begin to
fade, as seed-bearing weakens them and interferes with the produc-
tion of offsets. Preserve the healthy leaves and place the plants in
a cold frame, protect from frost, and keep the soil moderately moist.
"Where frame-room cannot be spared, the last batch may be stood
upon a bed of coal-ashes in a shady position in the open air, and
protected from frost when necessarv. The early batch can also be
placed in the open air after the first week in May, if desired ; but
if retained in a frame after that period shade during brilliant
sunshine.

With ordinary attention the offsets will be strong and ready
for removal early in August. They should be taken off with a heel,
and a small portion of root. Put four or five together round the
sides of a five-inch pot, and place in a cold frame, where they can
be shaded and regularly sprinkled overhead. They must not be
kept too dark, nor the frame too close, or a large proportion will
quickly damp off; on the other hand, no more air must be admitted
than they can bear without the foliage flagging. Pot off singly when
well rooted, and keep close and shaded for a few days, afterwards
gradually increase the supply of light and air to promote a healthy
and well-matured growth.

The best comjiost for the cineraria is undoubtedly one consisting
of five parts turfy loam, a sixth part of well- decayed manure, and a

144 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

plentiful proportion of silver-sand. The loam must be chopped up
roughly, and the manure and sand then thoroughly incorporated
with it. The soil in which the young stock is pricked off should
have the addition of a part of leaf-mould, to ensure their rooting
quickly in it.

The pots must be perfectly clean and well drained, to prevent
the soil becoming sour and waterlogged. The number of times the
stock will require shitting depends upon the purpose for which the
respective specimens are required ; two shifts will be sufficient for
those intended for ordinary conservatory decoration ; but specimens
for exhibition must have three shifts. In both cases they should
first of all be put in three-inch pots, and, when well established,
those which are only to have one more shift should be transferred
to six-inch pots, and the others into five-inch size ; and when
repotted again put into pots two sizes larger. Those which are to
be flowered in six-inch pots should have their last shift in the early
part of November, and the others about the middle of December.
Each batch must be repotted before the plants become pot-bound,
because of the danger which exists of throwing them into flower
prematurely. The soil should be pressed rather firm, but hard-
potting must be avoided.

A cold frame placed on the shady side of a wall is the most
suitable position for the stock until the end of September, as it can
have abundance of light without being exposed to the fierce rays of
the sun. Erom the end of the above-named month until the
flowers begin to expand, a heated store-pit facing the south is the
best possible position, although they will do very well in an ordinary
greenhouse, provided they are placed near the glass, and not exposed
to cold winds and keen draughts. It is also highly important to
use as little fire-heat as possible; indeed, just sufficient to keep out
the frost, with the aid of a covering on the glass, is all that should
be employed. "When exposed to much artificial heat the leaves will
curl, and the plants nearly or quite come to a standstill. On the
other hand, a little artificial warmth in very dull and damp weather
will be of considerable service to maintain a sweet moving atmo-
sphere.

Damp and mildew are the principal enemies to the cineraria, but
both are easily kept in check if taken in time. The best remedy for
mildew is flour of sulphur dusted over the foliage, and for the
destruction of the green-fly nothing can equal tobacco-powder. The
latter should be applied after the foliage has been wetted with the
syringe, and washed off again in about twenty-four hours after-
wards. Green-fly can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco-
paper, but the tobacco- powder is applied more easily, and there is
no danger whatever attending its use if the precaution of not allow-
ing it to remain on too long is duly observed.

The plants must be watered carefully at all times, especially
durino- the winter. They must have sufficient water to maintain a
vigorous growth, without being ke|>t in a constantly saturated con-
dition, and no more ; but they must not under any consideration
suffer from drought. Use soft water until the end of January, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 145

then substitute weak liquid manure for it. The plants should be
.-syringed lightly overhead in the afternoon, previous to closing the
frames for the night, both for the purpose of maintaining a genial
growing atmosphere, and for keeping the foliage free from dust and
insect pests. The syringing must be discontinued after the end of
September, as the water which runs from the pots will be sufficient
to maintain a proper degree of moisture in the atmosphere.

Stop the portion of the stock intended for specimens as soon as
the flower-stems rise ; pinch back the flower-stems to about four or
five joints, and peg out regularly the side-shoots and large leaves as
the growth progresses. The former will also require tying out before
the flowers begin to expand, but it is a good plan to commence the
training early, as there is then little difficulty in putting each shoot
in its proper place, and practically no danger of their being broken
when tying them out. A well-grown specimen, when the flowers
are fully expanded, should be spherical in shape, with the outside
flowers nearly level with the rim of the pot. Use pegs made
from galvanized wire, if practicable, but wooden ones are equally
serviceable. Seedlings and others intended for blooming early must
not be stopped at all.

Where seedlings are grown, those from which it is intended to
save seed should, as soon as the first flowers are expanded, be re-
moved.from the general stock, and placed in a frame by themselves
to prevent their being fertilized with pollen from the worthless sorts.
This is a very easy matter, because a very few plants will furnish an
ample supply of seed for the generality of gardens. The seed should
be saved from plants compact in habit, and with well-formed
distinctly-coloured flowers. Where seed is saved from a collection
of first-rate named varieties, it will not be necessary to separate the
seed-bearing plants from the general stock. As the flowers begin
to fade, place the plants in a light airy position to insure the seed
being thoroughly matured, and gather before it is blown away
and lost.

Sow the seed in the first or second week in July in five-inch
pots. Make the surface perfectly level, and cover with a very thin
layer of sandy soil. The pots should then be placed in a cold
frame, and constantly shaded from the sun until the young plants
begin to show above the surface, when the supply of light and air
must be increased. Directly the seedlings have two rough leaves,
prick off into seed-pans or round the sides of the same-sized pots,
and in the same manner as advised for the offsets ; and, like the
latter, they must be potted off as soon as established.

The following are the best varieties at pre.-ent in commerce, and
will form a good collection to begin with. If purchased at once a
stock of each sort may be obtained for next year; and it will be the
cheapest in the end, even if they cost more than they would in the
autumn, because the plants at the latter period would, in all proba-
bility, be too small to make much of a display the following season.
The names and colours are as follows : — Jgrippa, white, with rosy
crimson margin ; Auricula, white, blue margin ; Blue Beard deep
blue ; Celestial, white, narrow margin and blue disk ; Chancellor rich

VOL. VI. — NO. Y. 10

146

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

purplish crimson, narrow ring of wbite round the disk ; Duke of
Cambridge, crimson self; Flora, pure wbite, crimson edge ; Herbert,
white, blue edge ; Lord Amberley, rich plum ; Orb of Bay, crimson,
wbite ring round tbe disk ; Pandora, white, tipped with claret ;
President, rich plum, wbite ring round the disk ; Queen Victoria,
crimson, witb white ring ; Reynold's Hole, bright crimson ; Snow-
fiake, pure white ; Uncle Toby, deep purple self; Vesuvius, magenta
crimson.

CANNELL'S NEW BOILEE.

LTHOUGH there is no lack of good boilers for heating
horticultural structures, the new boiler, or " Hot-water
Circulator," invented and recently introduced to public
notice by Mr. Cannell, The Nurseries, Station Road,
Woolwich, is deserving of the careful attention of all
who depend upon the aid of artificial heat in the cultivation of
plants, fruits, and vegetables. The chief merits of the invention
consist in its being constructed so that the whole of tbe caloric or
heat which the fuel contains, excepting just sufficient to carry off
the smoke, is extracted aud carried to the water ; in its being

If9 i Size
Boiler.

manufactured in the best manner possible, to secure equal strength
in all the parts ; and in its being cast in separate sections to admit
of any part being replaced when worn out, without the necessity of
having an entirely new boiler.

Eig. 1 is a sketch of a full-gized boiler, with the several sections ele-
vated to showthe peculiarity of its construction, and the ease with which

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

147

Fig. 2.

it can be taken to pieces when required. Fig. 2 is intended to show-
that when the extent of the piping is not large the boiler may be
worked in much the same manner as the old Saddle-back, and its
heating capacity increased by the addition, first, of the two ends,
and then the top sections, according
to the extra work put upon it by
the increase of piping. The several
compartments are connected to-
gether with the patent joint shown
on the left hand of Fig. 1, which
admits of their being separated or
put together in a very short space
of time.

The following description, in
connection with the illustrations,
will, we hope, convey a clear idea
of the details of the construction
of the boiler : —

The boiler consists of niue or
more separate hollow castings, placed one upon another. Upon
brickwork is placed the basement, or No. 1 casting, consisting of a
hollow rectangular frame, in which are fixed eight (more or less,
according to the size of boiler) circular hollow fire-bars, placed
at such a distance from one another as to allow sufficient space
for the draught. At the back or farther end of this casting
are the return pipes, and in the front the discharge pipe for
cleansing the interior of the boiler at any time. The ashpit is
formed by the brickwork supporting the first or basement casting,
and is enclosed by a door hung on a solid cast-iron frame built
into the brickwork or otherwise. The furnace-door is to be hung in
the same way.

Upon the first casting four other separate hollow castings are
placed, of which Nos. 2 and 3, forming the sides of the furnace, are
fluted and placed parallel with the hollow fire-bars, and are of such
a length that the two remaining castings, Nos. 4 and 5, which form
respectively the back and front of the apparatus, may be flush with
the ends of the first casting. The back, or No. 4 casting, is large
enough to cover the whole or part of the end of the apparatus, and
is connected at the bottom by pipes with castings Nos. 2 and 3
respectively, and at the top on each side with casting No. 11, which
will be afterwards described. The front casting, No. 5, must be of
such a height that the top will be level with the top of No. 6,
forming the top of the furnace. The front is built up with brick-
work, with three sliding soot-doors to allow the flues to be properly
cleaned out. This front, or No. 5 casting, is connected at the
bottom by pipes with castings Nos. 2 and 3, and at the top on each
side with casting No. G. Upon the top of castings Nos. 2 aud 3 is
placed a sixth further and separate hollow fluted casting;, forming
the top of the furnace, having a space left at the back opening
upwards, to allow a free passage for the fire to pass out of the
furnace under a separate aud hollow casting (No. 7), which when

148 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

fixed forms two flues communicating, by means of other flues
formed by similar castings, and terminating in a rectangular opening
at the top for regulating the draught, and for the passage of the
smoke into the chimney.

The circulation of the water from and into every separate hollow
casting is effected by means of four sets of pipes affixed externally to
the castings, two sets being placed on each side of the apparatus.
If desired, the crown or top casting with the flow-pipe can be
placed upon No. 2 or 3 casting, and worked without the flues until
required. The flame or hot air from the fire placed on the hollow
bars will pass between castings .Nos. 2 and 3, until it arrives at
the opening, previously described to be left at the back of casting No. 0,
where it will divide, and pass upwards towards the front through
the two flues formed by casting No. 7. It will then return towards
the back through the two flues formed by casting No. 8, again
uniting and passing upwards into the flues formed by castings
Nos. 9 and 10, the heat thus continuing to travel through the cast-
ings Nos. 9, 10, and 11 in the same way, so that the hot air will pass
six times through the internal length of the apparatus before escaping
into the chimney.

CUT FLOWERS FOR BOUQUETS AND VASES.

[N carrying out the modern system of bedding, with its
ribbon borders, panel beds, and leaf embroidery, it is
necessary to employ almost exclusively a class of plants
that do not produce flowers well adapted for bouquets
and for filling vases. Therefore, where the greater portion
of the garden is devoted to that style of bedding, and there is not a good
collection of summer and autumn flowering plants under glass, it is
most difficult to obtain a plentiful supply of flowers for the vases
during these seasons. Indeed, a lady friend of mine, who has a
much larger garden than ours, but which is almost exclusively
devoted to summer bedders, assured me that she had the greatest
difficulty in keeping the vases properly filled, and was surprised to
see how beautifully ours were arranged at all times. She could not
understand where we could obtain the flowers from, until she was
taken to a retired part of the pleasure grounds and shown the little
border set apart for the cultivation of plants expressly for the sup-
ply of cut flowers for indoor apartments. Since last autumn she
has had a border prepared in a similar manner, which she intends
keeping entirely for herself. Were this to be done in all gardens
where cut flowers are in request, much vexation between the gardener
and his employers would be avoided ; the employer would be saved
the annoyance of not having sufficient, and the gardener the vexa-
tion of having the flowers stripped off plants in beds occupying
prominent positions. It is not an easy task to make out a complete
list of plants suitable for the end in view ; indeed, I shall not
attempt it, and shall content myself with enumerating the best of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 149

those we have hitherto grown. The list is certainly not so complete
as I should like, and I do hope that some of the many thousands
who read it will lend a helping hand to make it complete, and send
the names of any of the plants they have found well suited for the
purpose for which they are intended. For the assistance of lady
readers, and others not well acquainted with flowers, I shall divide
the list into sections as follows : —

Annuals. — Asters in variety ; Tro/ffaufs Perfection Posony, Dwarf
Pyramidal Perfection, and Victoria Asters, are probably the best to
grow to cut from. Calliopsis bicolor grandiflora, C. b. marmorata,
G. b. nigra speciosa, C. coronata ; Fragrant White, Dark Crimson
Flesh, and Purple Candytuft ; Eocket and Candelabrum floivered
Larkspurs ; Linum grandiflorum ; Lupins in variety ; Mignonette
eximea, M. ameliorata ; Sweet Peas in variety ; Phlox Drummondi
in variety ; Schizanthus Grahami, 8. pinnatus, 8. retusus ; Senecio
elegans in variety ; German and English Ten-week and New Large-
flowering Pyramidal Stocks, Night Scented Stock; Zinnia elegans in
variety. All the above may be raised from seed sown in the spring,
either in the cold frame or open ground. Where any of the above
may be had " in variety," a packet of mixed seed will suffice,
although in a few cases it would be preferable to have the colours
separately. The Stocks and Asters should be planted in favourable
positions.

Half Hardy Plants. — Ageratum Prince Alfred and Mexicanum ;
Bouvardia angustifolia, E>. elegans, B. Hogarth, B. Jasminoides ;
(these must be planted in a warm sunny situation) ; Pompone Dah-
lias ; hleliotropium Jersey Beauty, Miss Nightingale, and Surpasse
Guascoi ; Pelargonium Eollissons Unique; Double- flowering zonal
Pelargoniums, C. Glynn, Gaptaine I'Hermite, Marie Lemoine, Victor
Lemoine, and TVillhelm Pfltzer (these should be plunged in the
pots) ; Salvia coccinea, and Veronica Blue Gem. The foregoing should
be planted out at the same time as the ordinary bedding plants.
Verbenas and single-flowering zonal Pelargoniums are omitted
because they will be in abundance in other parts of the garden, and
they do not remain in good condition sufficiently long after they are
cut to admit of their being considered first-rate.

Hardy Herbaceous Plants. — Antirrhinums in variety ; Aster
dumosus, A. formosus, A. Nova Anglice, A. Nova Belgice ; Carnations,
including the Clove-scented varieties (seedlings which are usually
sold at a cheap rate are suitable to cut from) ; Cheiranthus Cheiri
luteus, fl.pl., C. G. pur pureus, fl.pl. ; Lily of the Valley ; Delphiniums
in variety ; Dianthus barbatus, D. hybridus in variety, D. lacinatus,
D. Heddewigi, D. JL. diadematus ; Snowdrops ; Gladiolus of all kinds
(Brenchleyensis,floribundus,yaridavensis, and ramosus, are wonderfully
cheap, and valuable for cutting, although not equal to the many
splendid varieties now in cultivation) ; Everlasting Peas ; Forget-
me-nots ; Lilium candidum (the common white) ; L. longiflorum ;
Lychnis Chalcedonica, L. Haageana ; Herbaceous Lobelias ; Muscari
in variety; all the Narcissus; Primula acaulis and P. elatior
in variety; Spires filipendula,fl. pi., S. uhnaria,fl. pi.; Veronicas;
Violets.

O. P. Q.

150 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS.

BY EOBEBT OTJBBIDGE,

Church Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington, N.

OW that preparation for the summer bedding is in active
progress, it appears desirable to direct attention to this
fine old plant, which is now seldom grown, because so
few of the modern flower gardeners are acquainted
with its merits. It is perhaps one of the most valuable
of all plants for furnishing a supply of cut flowers for bouquets and
other uses to which they are put ; not only because of the adapt-
ability of the flower for working up with other flowers, and the
profusion with which they are produced, but because of their
peculiar delicacy of colour and thorough distinctness from all others
that may be used for the same purposes. The reason that it is so
seldom planted out in the open border is undoubtedly due to its
being generally believed that it must have the protection of glass at
all seasons of the year. It is certainly not so hardy as many other
plants employed in flower garden decoration, but it is hardy enough
to grow well and flower freely during the summer and autumn
months, when planted in a warm, sunny situation. The most suitable
position for planting it when grown expressly for supplying cut
flowers is against a wall facing nearly or quite due south.

Previous to planting, a few shovelfuls of either manure, leaf-
mould, or fresh loam, or a combination of all three, should be mixed
with the staple soil to give the plants a good start. The plants can of
course be put out without any preparation, but no one can object to
the little trouble occasioned in preparing the ground as here directed.
It is of no consequence whether the plants are young or old, but
preference should be given to the latter if in good health, because
even if they are thin and scrubby in appearance, they will rapidly fill
out and soon begin to bloom freely. A few liberal soakings of water,
and training the young growth to the wall are all the attentions
that will be required after they are planted.

They are very valuable for edging beds in the flower garden
which are filled with rather tall-growing subjects, but they will
require pegging down. A few plants put round the outside of beds
filled with mixed subtropieals have a very pretty appearance, with
the flowers peeping out here and there from the masses of foliage,
The best way of employing them is perhaps planting alternately with
the scarlet-flowered Bouvardias such as Elegans and Hogarth. The
Bouvardias should be planted rather farther apart than would be
desirable if the bed was to be filled entirely with them, and the
Plumbago planted close enough together, so that in a short time
they will completely cover the surface. Young plants should of
course be selected, and the young growth pegged down in much the
same way as verbenas. If they grow too vigorously, and appear
likely to smother the Bouvardias, the shoots must be thinned out.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 151

Merely stopping them will make matters worse, as it will put a stop
to the flowers, and, at the same time, encourage the production of
more wood. The beds should be in an opeu and sunny situation, as
much for the sake of the Bouvardiaa as for the Plumbagos, because
both require a liberal degree of warmth to do them justice. The
bed should also be raised a few inches above the general level, to
enable the soil to become warmed from the action of the sun on the
raised sides. The close-growing Antennaria tomentosa, or either
Sempervivum Galifomicum or Echeverla secunda glauca, planted on
the sloping sides will effectually keep the soil in its place.

THE GAEDEN GUIDE FOE MAY.

Flower Garden. — The annuals sown last month must be
thinned before they are spoilt from overcrowding. Take up pri-
mulas, polyanthuses, daisies, and other spring- flowering plants, from
the beds, as they go out of flower, and divide, and plant in reserve
border for next year. A partially-shaded position is best for these
subjects through the summer. Plant in rows, a foot apart, and six
inches from plant to plant in the rows. Asters, stocks, zinnias, and
other hardy and half-hardy annuals, can be sown in the open ground
now. Harden off those sown under glass, and get them planted as
speedily as possible. All the ordinary bedding stuff ought to have
been in cradles out of doors, or the lights drawn entirely off those
in frames, for the last fortnight at least. Subtropical plants, of a
tender constitution, intended for the decoration of the flower garden,
must have free exposure to the air, to fit them for going out next
month. Thin the buds of pinks, picotees, and carnations, and
shade those intended for exhibition. Eemove auriculas to a shady
position, if not already done. Nip off the flower trusses as the
flowers fade, unless it is intended to save seed, for seed-bearing
weakens the plants. Trim up the grass verges, and mow and roll
the lawn, to promote a close bottom, and give everything a fresh and
bright appearance. The end of the month will be soon enough to
begin bedding out.

Kitchen Garden. — As weeds grow with great rapidity at this
season of the year, every exertion must be made to keep them down,
or they will fill the ground with seeds. Thin out all permanent
seed-beds, such as onions, carrots, etc., and plant out broccoli,
cauliflowers, cabbage, kales, etc., for the whiter, as the plants grow
large enough to transplant, before they get too much crowded.
Sow scarlet-runners, dwarf French beans, beet, turnips, spinach,
endive, and lettuce; the last two should be sown where they are to
remain, to prevent their running to seed so quickly, as is the case
when sown in beds and transplanted. Also sow marrow peas, and
earth up and stick those already forward enough. Peas do best
sown in trenches through summer ; they should be made in much
the same manner as for celery, but rather broader, and not quite so
deep. Prick out the late sown celery, and make trenches, and

152 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

plant out the earliest batch. Shade with a few branches of ever-
greens for a few days after planting, and keep well supplied with
water.

Fruit Garden. — "When disbudding the wall-trees, avoid de-
nuding the trees too much at one time ; remove the foreright shoots
first, and then begin again, and remove those not required for
training in. Proceed cautiously with thinning the fruit until the
end of the month. Bush and pyramid trees must have their shoots
thinned out, where too crowded, and those remaining pinched back
to the third or fourth leaf, Remove the runners from the straw-
berry plants directly they push, if not wanted for layering, or the
parent plants will soon be choked up with the young brood. "Wash
all the trees on the walls, and those trained as pyramids, frequently
with the garden engine.

Conservatory.— Now that the frames are clear of the hosts of
bedding plants with which they have been filled through the winter,
all small soft-wooded stuff should be removed to them, and hard-
wooded plants must have light and air, now that they are growing
freely. Azaleas and camellias require a warm, moist atmosphere
when making their growth, and to have plenty of air directly it is
made. Freely ventilate New Holland plants of every description,
and attend carefully to the watering, and be particular that each has
sufficient to moisten every particle of the soil in the pot. Shift and
stop fuchsias and petunias ; water them with manure-water as they
get pot-bound.

Stove. — Large numbers of orchidaceous plants will now be in
flower, and every means, consistent with the health of the plants,
must be adopted to preserve the freshness aud beauty of the flowers
as long as possible. A cool, dry atmosphere is necessary for this
purpose. Shift those iu the hottest house into the cool house, and
those from the cool house into the greenhouse, where they can be
shaded and kept close; for, on no account, must the plants be
exposed to currents of air. Plenty of moisture at the roots, and in
the atmosjmere, will be necessary for growing plants. Gesneras
and other plants, iutended for winter blooming, must soon have
their last shift. Shade during bright sunshine, and place those in
flower by themselves, so that the flowers receive no injury from the
syringing, which has now become a daily necessity. Ventilate freely,
and shut up early in the afternoon.

Forcing. — Inside vine borders must be liberally supplied with
water, where the crops are swelling, and the atmosphere kept moist
by throwing water on the paths, and sprinkling the bed and walls.
Where the grapes are colouring, give abundant ventilation, and
keep the atmosphere dry. The crops should be watched, and the
border have a good soaking just before the grapes commence colour-
ing, so that no more is required until that process is finished. Shift
on young vines in pots, and help those bearing young crops with
man ure- water. Peaches, nectarines, cherries, and figs, swelling
fruit, to have an increased temperature, with plenty of water at the
roots, and a thorough syringing twice a day. Crops of these in a
more advanced stage, which are beginning to ripen, must have less

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 153

moisture above, and more below. Cucumbers and melons require
regular attention in stopping and training. Where the heat is
maintained by means of hot manure, add fresh linings directly it
begins to decline. Give plenty of air, to render shading unneces-
sary.

Pits and Frames. — Give all the air possible to vegetable
marrows, tomatoes, ridge cucumbers, and chilies. It is a capital
plan, where any of these subjects are required early, to shift them
into eight-inch pots, and keep them growiug until the time arrives
for planting out; it makes a month's difference in their time of
coming into bearing, when strong plants are turned out, instead of
poor little starved ones.

HOETI CULTURAL NOTES.

(IPEIN1 G FLOWEES do not lack encouragement so far
as the leading Horticultural Societies are concerned,
supposing their proceedings to encourage them, for
during the past month we have had no less than
three exhibitions in the metropolis, besides those
held in the provinces. Two of the London shows were held in
the gardens of the Eoyal Horticultural Society at South Kensington,
and one in the gardens of the Eoyal Botanic Society in Eegent's
Park. The first of the Kensington exhibitions, held April 5, was
devoted to Cyclamens and Cinerarias, and Amaryllis; and the
second, which was held April 19, to Auriculas and Azaleas. The
Regent's Park Show, held April 11, included spring flowers generally.
To deal with any of them in detail is quite unnecessary, and there-
fore only mention will be made of a few of the most important
matters that were brought forward at the several shows.

April is, undoubtedly, too late to see the varieties of Cyclamen persi-
cum in perfection ; hence it was not a matter for surprise to find that
the dark flowers had lost much of their freshness, and presented a
faded appearance compared with what they were a month or six weeks
previously. Of these beautiful flowers, Mr. James, gardener to
W. F.Watson, Esq., Redlees, Isleworth, and Mr. Goddard, gardener
to H. Little, Esq., Cambridge Park, Twickenham, came out in strong
force, and carried all before them, and ran each other a very close
race in the classes in which they competed together. Indeed, the
competition was so close between them, that Mr. James was first,
with Mr. Goddard second, and in the class for six their positions
were exactly reversed, and Mr. Goddard was also first for an un-
limited collection. The varieties in the collections shown by Mr.
James were chiefly light flowered, but of the most excellent quality ;
and on the other hand, the collections put up by Mr. Goddard,
especially the larger ones, comprised some of the very best dark
flowers ever exhibited, and to say too much in their praise would
be well nigh impossible. Mr. Edmonds, nurseryman, of Hayes
Common, Middlesex, who has probably done more than any other

154 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

member of the trade in the improvement of the Cyclamen, exhibited
a grand group of medium-sized plants, which were so brilliant in
colour as to quite astonish those who had only been accustomed to
the common varieties in cultivation. To overpraLe Cyclamens for
winter decoration would be difficult, and those who are anxious to
obtain the greatest amount of pleasure possible from their cultiva-
tion, should first secure seed from a first-rate strain, and then save
seed from the very best flowers they have in their collection. Seed-
bearing is, however, very injurious to the health of the plants, and
not more than two pods of seed should be allowed to mature on each
plant, because if more than that number is allowed to remain, the
plants will in all probability break badly the following season, and
those that are the most heavily taxed will in all probability entirely
perish.

The only exhibitor of Amaryllis was Mr. Baxter, gardener to
C. Keiser, Esq., Broxbourne, who is undoubtedly the most successful
grower of there gorgeous flowers we have, for he has taken all
the first prizes offered by the London Societies, both this season
and last, and with plants that have certainly not been surpassed.
It would serve no useful purpose to give the names of the varieties
staged by Mr. Baxter, because he has been most successful in raising
new varieties, and the collections staged consisted entirely of varieties
of his own raising, many of which have received first-class certificates.
As Mr. Baxter contributed a paper on the cultivation of these plants
in the Floral World for August, 1869, there is no reason why
all who read this, provided, of course, they have the convenience,
should not he as successful as himself in cultivating them. It is
very generally supposed that a very high temperature is essential to
a vigorous growth, but it will be recollected that in the paper
referred to it is distinctly stated that a temperature intermediate
between the greenhouse and stove is all that is required.

Many other interesting things were shown, but, excepting the
fine collection of hardy herbaceous plants from Mr. AYare, of the
Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, and the collections of Pot Boses
from Mr. W. Paul, Waltham, and Messrs. Veitch and Son, Chelsea,
they were not of sufficient importance to merit attention here. It
is worthy of remark, however, that in the competition for the prizes
offered for Cucumbers, both first and second prizes for white-spined
varieties were awarded to Blue Gown, a fine variety sent out by Mr.
Turner, of Slough, which is unquestionably the finest cucumber of
its class for exhibition yet sent out. This cucumber averages an inch
and a-half in diameter and twenty-four inches long, is very smooth,
with scarcely any handle, and with proper care can be had as straight
as a gun-barrel. At the last meeting at Kensington Mr. Turner
exhibited a plant of Turner's Prolific Black Spine, growing in
a ten-inch pot, to show its productive qualities. The plant, although
only about thirty inches in height, had nine or ten fruit, averaging
twelve inches in length, and most of them were full grown. A
better proof of its productiveness could not possibly be had, and as
the fruit is of excellent flavour, it can be highly recommended for
ordinary consumption. Long cucumbers, excepting for exhibition,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 155

are not desirable, because they are seldom remarkable for produc-
tiveness, and it is much better to have two fruit twelve inches in
length than one eighteen inches. For a companion to Turner's
Prolific, Masters's Prolific, a most excellent and free-bearing white-
spined variety, can be highly recommended. Indeed, it is such a
good cropper that a very small amount of frame or house-room will
suffice to maintain a regular supply throughout the season.

The most important contributions to the exhibition of the Royal
Botanic Society, held April 12 and 13, were the Pot Roses, green-
house Azaleas and Cinerarias, and hardy Herbaceous plants. The
competition in the classes for roses was remarkably spirited, although
the number of exhibitors was not large. The two leading trade
exhibitors were Mr. C. Turner, Slough, and Messrs. Paul and Sons,
Cheshunt, whose collections were very evenly matched ; but there
can be no doubt that the first prize was most deservedly awarded
to the collection from Mr. Turner. As a guide to rose-growers, it
will be well to give the names of the varieties shown in the two
collections, which, it is hardly necessary to say, are first-rate for pot-
culture. The collection staged by Mr. Turner comprised examples
of Anna Alexieff, Miss Ingram, Marie Baumann, Souvenir d'un Ami,
Marechal Vaillant, La France, Celine Forrestier, Victor Verdier,
Princess Mary of Cambridge. The varieties in the Cheshunt collec-
tion were Madame Victor Verdier, Madame de St. Joseph, Dr. Andry,
Charles Lefebvre, Souvenir d'Elise, John Hopper, Horace Vernet,
Juno, and Marechal Niel. The leading amateur exhibitors of roses
were Mr. Baxter, gardener to C. Keiser, Esq., Broxbourne, and Mr.
James, gardener to W. F. "Watson, Esq., Isleworth, who were first
and second respectively in the class for six, with well-grown examples
of the leading kinds.

Spring-flowering hardy herbaceous plants are so beautiful when
grown in pots under glass, and require so little skill to manage
them properly, that it will be useful to many to mention that the
splendid collection with which Mr. Ware carried off the first prize,
consisted of Spiraea japonica, Dielytra spectabilis,- Polemonium
reptans, Polvgouatum multiflorum, Triteleia uniflora, Primula cor-
tusoides amcena lilncina, P. cortusoides intermedia ; the common
and striped-leaved Lily of the Valley, the fern-leaved Preony, and
Cheiranthus luteus fl. pi., a very fine double yellow Wallflower. Cinera-
rias, with but one exception, were far from first-rate. The principal
exception was the collection from Mr. James, who staged a group
of most beautiful and well-flowered specimens. Several new plants
were shown, the most interesting of them being Cyclamen persicum
Snovjlake, a fine large-leaved variety with large pure white flowers,
from Mr. Goddard, gardener to H. Little, Es-q., Cambridge Park,
Twickenham ; Tillandsia argentea, an interesting epiphytal species
with silvery leaves, and Euterpe antioqtiensis, a very graceful-grow-
ing palm with pinnate fronds, from Messrs. Rolli?son and Son ;
Amaryllis hybrida gujantea, a very beautiful variety with medium-
sized flowers, of a delicate blush colour, most beautifully painted
rich rosy carmine, from Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway ; Acer
pohjmorphum pahnatifidum, a very beautiful maple with leaves

156 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

elegantly cut, and of a light green colour, from Messrs. Yeitch and
Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea ; and Malortiea speciosa, a bold
and distinct palm, from Messrs. A. Henderson and Co., Maida Vale,
Edgeware Road.

At the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, the
Azaleas were decidedly poor, and excepting a tine group of new
varieties, staged byM. L. Van Houtte, Ghent, Belgium, we can well
afford to pass them by.

All the varieties shown by M. L. Van Houtte possess consider-
able merit, but the best and most distinct were : — Alice, deep rose,
spotted on top segment ; semi-dimble, showy. Marquis of Lome,
vermilion, with a few crimson spots on top segments ; single, fine.
Comtesse de Beaufort, deep rose, with crimson blotch on upper
segment, semi double. George Loddiges, scarlet, very large and showy;
single. Baronne de Vriere, pure white, striped with rosy scarlet,
very large and fine ; single. Juliette, deep rosy carmine ; semi-double,
large and of fine form ; superb. Madlle. Marie Van Houtte, white,
striped with scarlet, large and fine. Superba Nova, rosy crimson,
shaded w<ith violet, single ; first-rate. Princess Louise of Lome, pale
flesb, with violet spots ; large and good.

Auriculas shown both for the prizes offered by the Metropolitan
Eloral Society and by the Royal Horticultural Society were staged
in fine condition. The former society offered prizes for single
specimens of selfs and of green, white, and grey-edged varieties, and
for six show varieties, and the principal prizes were awarded as
follows : — Single specimen Self, Mr. Turner, Slough, first with
Spalding's Blackbird ; Mr. James, gardener to W. F. Watson, Esq.,
Redlees, Jsleworth, second with Martin's Mrs. Smith. Single
specimen Green-edge, Mr. James first with a grand example of
Lovely Ann ; Mr. Turner second with Traill's Prince of Greens;
and Mr. Butcher third with Mrs. Butcher. Single specimen White-
edge, first Mr. James with Smith's Ne Plus Ultra in fine condition ;
Mr. Turner second with Lee's Earl Grosvenor. Single specimen
Grey-edge, Mr. Turner first with Lightbody's Richard Headly ;
the Rev. H. H. Dom brain second with Headly's George Lightbody.
Six Show varieties, the Rev. H. H. Dombrain, Westwell Vicarage,
Ashford, Kent, first with Clegg's Crucifix, Martin's Mrs. Sturrock,
Traill's Mayflower, Lightbody's Richard Headly, and Park's Metro-
politan ; H. Little, Esq., Cambridge Park, Twickenham, second with
a well-finished collection, consisting of Traill's General Neill, Light-
body's Richard Headly, Dickson's Duke of Cambridge, Smith's Ne
Plus Ultra, and Lancashire Hero.

The competitors for the prizes offered by the latter Society for
twelve show Auricula and twelve Alpine Auriculas, were Mr. C.
Turner and Mr. James, who were first and second respectively in
each class. In the Alpine class, Mr. Turner had Borealis, Godfrey,
Elcho, Nonpareil, Celina, Mercury, Gladiator, Dizzle, Queen
Victoria, John Leech, Defiance, and Cygnet, all of which are first-
rate ; and Mr. James had Little Beauty, Miss Andrew, Conspicua,
Mabel, Beauty, Novelty, Minnie, Clipper, and Dazzle. In the show
class, Mr. Turuer staged Martin's Mrs. Sturrock, Martin's Miss

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 157

Martin, Partington's Trafalgar, M'Lean's Unique, Read's Miss
Giddings, Barlow's Morning Star, Turner's Galatea, Turner's
Colonel Champneys, Turner's Omega, Turner's Buckstone, Turner's
Competitor, and Lightbody's Richard Headly ; and Mr. James had
Spalding's Blackbird, Martin's Mayfield, Wild's Bright Phoebus,
Headly's Royal Purple, Turner's Webster, James's Mary James,
Lightbody's Meteor Flag, Smith's Mrs. Smith, and Martin's Mrs.
Sturrock. Mr. Turner exhibited a batch of new Alpine varieties,
all of which are decided acquisitions. The names and colours are as
follows : — Mr. James Butcher, very large, stout, and massive ; ground
colour deep maroon-crimson, very rich ; paste small deep golden
yellow ; truss good. Sultan, medium size, but smooth and well
finished ; ground colour brownish-maroon, shading to claret ; paste
large and sharply denned. Marquis of Westminster, rather above
medium size; ground colour rich chocolate-crimson; paste large and
smooth ; a beautifully-finished flower. Mrs. Moore, rather large ;
ground colour deep blackish velvety maroon ; paste large, smooth,
and richly coloured. Lord Lome, medium-sized and of fair form ;
ground colour bright crimson ; paste rich in colour, and well
denned.

The most desirable of the new plants shown were : — Maxillaria
lutea grandiflora, a very fine and richly-coloured variety, from Mr.
B. S. Williams. Tea Rose Belle Lyonnaise, very large and double,
and of the finest form, from Mr. Charles Turner. Rliododendron
The Bride, a superb greenhouse variety, with pure white flowers of
large size, fine form, and great substance, from Mr. G. Pairbairn,
gardener to J. T. Noakes, Esq., Brockley Hall, Lewisham. Acer
dissecturn, a very beautiful variety with elegantly-cut green leaves, and
A. japonicum omatum, a variety with leaves cut in much the same
manner as the preceding, but of a dark bronzy crimson hue, from
Messrs. Veitch and Sons. Azalea amcena Marvel, a semi-double
form of this well-known and useful azalea, from Mr. Bull. Pink
Princess Louise, a magnificent dwarf-growing variety, with large
flowers of fine form, very full, and of the most brilliant scarlet
colour, and very fragrant, from Mr. Lee, Florist, Cross Bush, near
Arundel. Cypripedium niveum, from Mr. C. Ward, gardener to
A. D. Berrington, Esq., Pont-y- Goitre, Abergavenny ; and Odonto-
glossum odoratum, a pretty species, with yellow and brown flowers,
from Mr. Denning, gardener to Lord Londesborough, Grimston
Park, Tadcaster.

It will be remembered that Mr. Trussler, the head-gardener at
High Leigh, Hcddesdon, contributed a paper on the cultivation of
camellias to the Floral World for December last, in which he
strongly recommended planting them out in a border of good soil
instead of growing them in pots ; and assuredly he can speak with
confidence upon that point. The large conservatory under his
charge is planted almost exclusively with camellias, and each plant
is a perfect specimen, some of them being nearly twenty feet in
height. Some are grown as pyramids, a few as bushes, and others
as standards, all being in the most luxuriant health ; and when I
had the pleasure of seeing them in March, they were literally loaded

158 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

with flowers. Those of the favourite old Double White could have
beeu gathered by the hundred from each plant. One of the most
remarkable of the specimens in the conservatory was a pyramid
about twenty feet in height of Cbandleri elegans, quite solid with
the bloom, and the majority of the flowers measuring six and seven
inches across. Of course there are not many amateurs who could
grow camellias on so large a scale as at High Leigh, but where there
is a small house aud a liberal supply of camellias required, the plan
recommended by Mr. Trussler is undoubtedly the best that could
be adopted. An abundance of camellias may be grown in the open,
or at least against a wad, anywhere south of London, because the
camellia is quite hardy enough to bear exposure to winters such as
that through which we have just passed without injury. At the
present time tbere is, in the gardens of Baron Schroder at Englefield
Green, a plant of the old Double White that covers a wall twenty
feet in length, and is upwards of fourteen feet in height. The
growth has been allowed to grow out from the wall, and it now
extends to a distance of six feet, and the foliage and bloom as
dense as they possibly can be. During the early part of this spring
it has been really magnificent ; for from top to bottom throughout
its whole length it has been sheeted with bloom of the most snowy
w hiteness. The only protection it receives is a few lights placed
over the top when in bloom, to prevent the rain injuring the flowers.
It has flowered in the same manner for many years past. G. (Jr.

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Fern House. — I have a small glass annexed outside my dining-room window,
and should feel obliged by your opinion as to what to grow in it. It faces north-
west, the sun getting on it about two o'clock. I have just had the pleasure of
reading your book ("Fern Garden"), and the simple practical advice you have
there given induces me to make the above request. — J. R. Oarside, Leeds. [The
structure is best adapted for the cultivation of ferns, and we should recommend
their beino- grown. The "Fern Garden " will supply you with all the necessary
information respecting the selection of the best kinds, preparation of the soil, potting,
and other details connected with their management. — En. F. W.]

Rose-buds Decaying. — If time permits, will you in the next number of the
Floral World tell me why the buds of a ro.-e, one of which I enclose, have all
rotted without opening. It is a standard in a large pot in the greenhouse, and had
twenty-seven promising buds, of which only one expanded. — A Constant Sub-
scriber. [The bud sent tells the story in detail. Your pot rose made a good
growth last summer, aud ripened a fine lot of wood ; since it began to grow again
t lie roots have been too cold and too wet. It is too late, of course, to save the
flowers, but there is time to put the plant to rights, and the first step will be to
have it carefully repotted, for in all likelihood the drainage is stopped and the
soil is sour, and if the roots are not promptly attended to the. rose-tree will die. —
Ed. F. W.]

Woodlice in Cold Frames. — J. 31. would be glad to know if there is anyway
of destroying wood bobs in irames ; the writer's melons have been much injured
for two or three seasons by these insects, and he can find no effectual remedy.
[For directions for trapping these pests, see the answer to "W. S.," page 32 of
tiie Floral World for last January. — Ed. F. W.]

G. H. — Six late-flowering Phloxes : Aurantiaca superba, Madame Quil-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 159

lotteaux, Liervalli, Madame Marin Saison, Mons. Linden, Mons. W, Bull. Six
1'entstemons : Arthur Mc Hardy, Black Knight, Lady Boswell, Starts fead Rival,
Miss Carnegie, George Sand. Six Antirrhinums : Admiral, George Gordon.
Leopard, Striped Unique, The Rival, Yelloio Gem. The above selections
include a few of those that are now in course of distribution for the first time.

Calceolarias.— G. Simpson. — "We cannot say whether they will die off this
summer as they did last, and as they have too frequently done in past years.
But we can say this, that in several experiments with calceolarias at Stoke
Newington, those planted in soil consisting of about three parts out of four of rotten
hotbed dung, n-me died, and the growth and bloom were the astonishment of many
practicals who saw them.

Geraniums fok Planting after Bulbs. — W. W. — All you need do is to
shift the plants into six-inch pots, and plunge them out of doors till wanted. Then
you can turn them out without any check, and in full bloom. So in autumn you
need not take up your plants till the end of October, and you have then good time
to plant the tulips. Suppose you were to have some kind of cheap frame-work for
inclosing those beds, and then fill them with potted plants for the summer, on the
plunging system. That system proves to be about a hundred times more grand
than any system of planting out, and it has but one defect, and that is, that it uses
an enormous quantity of plants, but that is an advantage to those who grow
plants in quantities. But you have only to give your bedders an extra fortnight's
growing.

Destroying Wireworm. — Robert Wilkinson. — Yours is a bad case, but not at
all uncommon where a grass-field has been lately converted into a garden. Culti-
vation will eradicate the pest in time, as every time the land is dug the birds will
make a feast of the vermin, and the use of lime and salt on the land when newly
dug tip will contribute to thin them. For the present, we can recommend a good
plan to save the crops that are coming forward. Sow carrots in short rows in all
the beds occupied with lettuces, onions, and other things that they usually destroy.
As long as they can find th .ir way to a feed o{ carrots, they will desert everything
else, just as slugs and snails will quit everything else for lettuces. Sow the
carruts now rather thick, at intervals of about two yards across every four-feet
bed, and as soon as they acquire the thickness of a quill begin to draw them
where thickest, and you will catch many' of the vermin. But you must allow a
fair share of roots to remain, and you will have a crop of carrots in the end iu
spite of the worms. Next year sow onions and carrots, lettuces and carrots,
etc., in alternate rows in the same beds ; it is too laty, we presume, to advise this
course now.

F. C. — You have nothing to fear, although it would be a decided advantage
if the trees could be pruned earlier in the season ; but it would not be safe to
prune them before the sap is in active circulation.

A New Beginner. — Of course, if the plants had not been well hardened off
by exposure to the air previous to their removal from the frame, they would suffer.

Mushroom Culture. — Mrs. Smith. — There are many ways of growing mush-
rooms ; some of the most careless ways are sometimes very succassful, some of the
most careful ways are sometimes failures. In the end the careful man will be
the winner ; and theiefore, tnough the b:-st ways fail sometimes, we recommend the
following, which we consider the best: — Collect short manure from the stable duily,
and lay it in a heap in a dry shed. So long as it rises to only a gentle heat leave
it alone, and keep adding to it ; but if there is any tendency to a strong heat,
spread it out; leave it spread a day or two, and make it up again in smaller heaps.
If it gets thoroughly hot, it will be in great part spoiled. When you have enough
for the bed, mix w ith it a fourth part of good turfy loam ; if the loam is stiff, use
only a sixth part to the whole bulk. Lay it all up in a heap to ferment, and when the
heat rises to 80° or 90°, take it to the mushroom house, and make up the bed 18 to
24 inches deep. It will soon heat again, but not fiercely. When the temperature
of the bed is declining from its first heating, and is at about 90' (80' to 100J will
do as well), bore holes with a rammer about a foot apart, and put into each a piece
of spawn the size of a walnut. Fill up the holes with some of the same stuff the bed
is made of, then spread two or three inches of good strong loam all over the
bed, and at once beat the whole firm. It is one of the most important of all the
points in mushroom-growing to make the bed as firm as a rock at the right

100 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

moment — that is, when the heat is going down from the first rush, and is not
more than 100°. Spread over the bed some clean dry straw, not hay, for that is apt
to go mouldy ; and thereafter keep the bed moderately rroist, but never wet, and as
far as possible let the atmosphere be close, damp, and averaging 55° to 70°. Gene-
rally speaking, water never need be given until after the first gathering of mush-
rooms has been made ; but this will depend on the degree of moisture of the stuff
when the bed is made : the experienced cultivator will take care to have it moist
enough in the first instance to last five weeks, and will then expect to find the bed
smothered with young mushrooms. In gathering, take them clean out of the soil ;
the practice of leaving the root in, with a view to disseminate fresh spawn, is bad,
for it attiacts several kinds of hies, and these soon fill the bed with maggots,
and it encourages snails and wood-lice, which are a? fond of mushrooms as we are.

Pjeonies and Pyrethrums. — W. W. — There is still time to buy and plant,
though the autumn is preferable. Your position, climate, etc., are all that these
tilings require to do well ; the fact is, they are first-rate flowers for the suburbs of
towns. Since your ground is well drained, you may reasonably expect to grow
peonies, pyrethrums, dahlias, and hollyhocks well. We cannot advise you whether
to buy the cheapest or the dearest kinds ; you are the best judge of your own
purse; but the most expensive kicds are as hardy as the cheapest, and occasion no
more trouble to grow them well.

Flowers. — Miss B. — The following are good subjects for a London garden :
Chrysanthemums, Pyrethrums, (Enothera Fraseri, Iberis sempervirens, Alyssum
saxatile, common white Lily and Martagon Lily, Solomon's Seal, Achillea millefolia
rosea, Achillea ptarmica, Spirea filipendula, herbaceous Pteonies, Dielytra spec-
tabilis, Everlasting Pea, Veronica spicata, Campanula carpatica, Campanula per-
sicifolia, Campanula nobilis, Tiadescantia Virginica, Centranthus rubra, Hemero-
callis flava, Helianthus angustifolius, Helianthus laetiflorus, Lysimachianummularia,
Sedum acre, Sedum fabarium, Sempervivum moutanum. These are all good things,
and will grow and flower well wherever they can get a bit of sunshine. They may
all be obtained in pots or tufts from the open ground at a nursery where hardy
plants in any great variety are kept. We can advise you of a few hundreds more,
hut perhaps these will suffice for the present. Any that you determine to have,
procure and plant at once.

Unhealthy Zonal Pelargoniums. — An Amateur Groiver. — The plants that
are affected like the sample sent, have for months past been in a bad state at the
roots. Probably the drainage has been choked by worms, and during the miserable
March and April the soil was becoming more and more satuiated and sour. Shake
them out, prune back the roots a little, and repot them, using an extra bed of crocks
and an extra quantity of sand, and put them on a hot sunny shelf, where they will
no doubt recover in a few weeks.

Annuals for Cold Soil. — W. O. S. — The best annuals for a cold clay are the
showy Californian kinds, sown in pans in a pit or frame, or on a gentle hotbed, and
planted out when the ground is warm. If you grow Oxalis rosea, Hunnemannia,
Nemophila maculata, Leptosiphon, or Fenzlia dianthiflora, or Ipomers, get them
forward in pans, and do not plant them out till May. Give preference to the crim-
son, purple, and white Candytufts, Nemophila insignis, Campanula speculum,
Venus's Navel-wort, Silene armeria, Kaulfussia amelloides, Yiscana oculata, Gilea
rosea, Escholtzia crocea, and pceony Poppy.

Celosia pyramidalis. — ir". Johnson.— To start the seeds quickly, a bottom-heat
of 80' to 90" is necessary ; sow the seed thinly, but directly the plants are up place
them close to the glass, and give air freely to keep them dwarf. As soon as the
plants are sufficiently strong, pot them off into " thumbs," and give them a bottom-
heat of 80° at the least, a moist atmosphere, and as much air night and day as the
heat of the frame, pit, or house, will admit of, always bearing in mind that the night
temperature should not fall much below 60°, while in the daytime a brisk moist heat
rising to 80' or 90", with sun-heat and moistuie, will not be too much. As the pots
fill with roots, shift into those of a larger size. Fine plants may be grown in
eleven-inch pots, but if you wish to attain the fullest perfection, thirteen or fifteen-
inch pots will be necessary. Soil, sandy loam and very rotten dung, and use
manure-water pretty freely.

T H U N I A B E N S 0 N I £

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 1G1

NOTES ON ORCHIDS.

BY GEORGE GORDON.
( With Coloured Illustration of Thunia Bensonice.)

jlRCHIDS have bad ample justice done them in the pages
of the Floral World, as a reference to the indexes
of past volumes will show, but the appearance of a
portrait of the beautiful Thunia Bensonice presents a
most favourable opportunity for once more directing
attention to the claims they have upon the amateur. A few years
since, the cultivation of orchids was considered quite beyond the
means of any but the most wealthy ; for expensive houses, and an
excessively high temperature, were looked on as most essential to
success. Added to this, the cost of the plants themselves was quite
sufficient to place them beyond the reach of the amateur with limited
means. Now, all this has changed, for an extended acquaintance
with them has shown that the more simply the orchid-house is con-
structed, the better it is for the health of the plants, and also that a
very large number of species can be grown in a comparatively cool
temperature. The reduction in price of the most showy kinds has
also been very considerable, and now strong plants of a very large
number can be obtained for a less sum than the price paid for a
" tricolor " geranium when first sent out. Indeed, in a catalogue
before me, Dendrobium nobile, which is most beautiful and easily
grown, is quoted at five shillings, and Oncidium flexuosum, and
Phaius grandifolia both showy and free-flowering, at a trifle over two-
thirds of that sum ; and in another catalogue a collection of twenty- five
are offered for four pounds, and superior collections, both for cool and
high temperatures, for eight pounds each, or the fifty plants, which
would form a very good collection to begin with, for sixteen pounds !
This is merely mentioned to show that orchids are not such expensive
luxuries as they once were, and are even now generally supposed to
be. Of course the plants at so low a price are not large, but it is
better for the young beginner to commence with small, instead of
large plants, because of the extra pleasure afforded in watching their
development into fair-sized specimens. And in case of failure with
any of the kinds, the loss will be very inconsiderable when the plants
are small.

Apart from the above considerations, and the gorgeousness of
their flowers, they possess many advantages over ordinary stove
plants, but two only will be noticed here. First of all, the labour of
the annual or periodical renewal of the stock from cuttings common
to a stock of ordinary stove-plants is avoided, for they do not soon
outgrow the space allotted to them, and they increase in value as they
increase in size. When it is wished to increase any particular
species, the plants can, with but i'ew exceptions, be divided just as
they are starting into growth, and each portion potted and otherwise
managed in the same way as established specimens. Secondly, there

VOL. VI. — NO. VI. 11

162 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

is nothing in their culture which may not he mastered by the
amateur, with the assistance of a little practical advice, such as that
given in the papers on Orchid Growing, published in the Floral
World for January and May, 1870.

To give, upon the present occasion, any but general directions
for their management, is out of the question, and all that it appears
desirable to attempt is a few observations on the most suitable house
for an amateur to build, the selection of the potting materials, and
the supply of moisture, both at the roots, and overhead.

First of all, we -will consider the best form of house, and it
should be well understood that orchids, although they do not bloom
satisfactorily in a dark house, should not be exposed to an excess of
light. For a moderate collection, a span-roof house, twelve feet in
width and eight in height from the floor to the apex, and twenty
feet in length, would be a fair size. The tables should be four feet
in width, and fixed at a distance of four feet above the floor ; and the
side walls, upon which the bottom of the lights should rest (for side
sashes are entirely unnecessary), should be carried thirty inches above
the stage. The latter can be made with open lattice-work, but it is
preferable to have a close stage, and then it can be covered during
the summer months with cocoanut-fibre refuse, or sand, to retain
the moisture, as the evaporation therefrom is most conducive to the
health of the plants. The house should be heated with hot water,
and the division set apart for species requiring a high temperature,
four rows of pipes on each side ; for those requiring an intermediate
temperature, three rows, and for "cool" orchids, two rows will be
ample ; but two divisions will be ample for an amateur, and preference
should be given to orchids that will succeed in the cool and inter-
mediate house. If three divisions are required, the house should not
be less than thirty feet in length. A less quantity of piping in all
the divisions may be fixed, but in severe weather the pipes will have
to be made much hotter than would be otherwise necessary, and the
heat given off will not be so congenial to the health of the plants.
Ventilation should be effected by means of small openings in the
side walls, opposite the pipes, and small moveable lights at the apex
of the roof.

Nearly all the epiphytal species can be grown in a mixture of
sphagnum moss and fibrous peat used in equal proportion, but some
species prefer either peat or sphagnum separately. The Cattleyas,
Pleiones, and Lselias, for instance, do best in peat, whilst the Den-
drobiums, iErides, Oncidiums, and Phalsenopsis succeed better when
•potted in sphagnum. All grow with greater vigour when the roots
can come outside, and run down the sides of the pot or basket in
which the plants are put, consequently the pots should be nearly
filled with large crocks only, or in repotting the plants, turn them
out of the pots, remove the loose material from round the outside of
the ball, and after carefully loosening the outside roots, spread them
out regularly, and cover them with a moderate thickness of the
compost ; and to hold the plants steady, insert a few pegs at regular
distances apart.

Terrestrial species should be potted in a mixture of turfy loam,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

163

leaf-mould, sand, and cow-dung rotted to a powder, well incorporated
together, and used in a moderately rough state. The pots should be
about half filled with crocks, and then filled up with the compost to
within about an inch of the rim.

The winter temperature of the several divisions should average
70°, 60°, and 45° respectively, with a range of five degrees each way,
according to the weather. As an example, the temperature of the
hottest house in mild weather may rise to 75°, and in frosty weather
fall to 653, provided the transition is effected in a gradual manner.
The summer temperature should be on an average ten degrees higher.
An abundance of atmospheric humidity is essential during the
summer season ; consequently, the paths and walls require sprinkling
frequently, and in very bright weather plants not in bloom may be
syringed overhead lightly when the house is shut up for the night.
Liberal supplies of water during
the same period will also be
necessary ; and if the pots are
drained as here advised, there
will not be much danger of the
com post becoming sour from over
saturation, provided the water is
applied in moderation. When
at rest, the compost must not
be allowed to become quite dry,
but kinds with thick fleshy
pseudo-bulbs, such as the Cat-
tleyas, Dendrobiuins, and On-
cidiums, require very little mois-
ture indeed, and it will be safer
to err on the side of keeping
them too dry than in watering
them too freely. iErides, Van-
das, and Pkalaenopsis,and others
of a similar character, which are
not furnishedwith pseudo-bulbs,
must not be kept so dry at the
roots, or theywiil suffer severely,
and the safest rule to lay down
is, that the compost should be
kept moderately moist through-
out the winter.

From March until the end
of August, Orchids require
shading, which can be accom-
plished by tacking stout tiffany or thin canvas over the roof per-
manently, or by means of roller-blinds, which are preferable, ex-
cepting that a considerable amount of labour is requisite in attend-
ing to them. Air should be, excepting during the summer season,
admitted at the top, unless special provisions are made for warming
it previous to its coming in contact with the plants.

Some kinds are best suited for baskets, and for growing upon

IMPROVED ORCHID BASKET.

164 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

blocks, and as they do better when disturbed as little as possible,
durable wood, like that of the apple-tree, ought to be selected.
Branches six inches in diameter cut up into lengths of nine and
twelve inches, make excellent blocks, quite large enough for all
ordinary-sized specimens. In attaching thera to the wood, first fasten
a little moss on one side, then spread the roots over it, and cover them
lightly, and make all secure by means of thin copper wire. Baskets
of wood or red ware are the most suitable; and preference should be
given to those made with hazel rods an inch in diameter, and of
a similar shape to that shown in the accompanying illustration.
Amateurs in the neighbourhood of towns would do better to buy
the baskets ready-made from nurserymen who cultivate orchids, or
purchase from the potteries baskets manufactured in red ware, like
the one here figured, which is probably the best form that could be
adopted.

Orchids may be divided into three classes : the first comprising
those which should be grown in quantity for decorative purposes,
furnishing a supply of cut flowers ; the second those which, from
their great beauty, are indispensable to the amateur cultivator ; and
the third those which are only suitable for botanical gardeners and
collectors of curiosities.

In the first class we must include, Barkeria Skinneri, JBrassia
verrucosa, Calanthe vestita, and its varieties ; Gyprlpedium insigne,
Dendrobium fimbriatwm, D. nobile, Goodyera discolor, Loelia acumi-
nata, L. albida, L. anceps, Limatodes bicolor, Oncidium flexuosum,
0. leucochilum, O. sphacelatum, and Phains grandifolius.

The varieties comprised in the second class are so numerous
that it will be necessary to divide them into sections, according to
the temperature in which they can be the most successfully cul-
tivated.

High Tempeeatuee. — 2Erides affine, 2E. Lobbi, 2E. suavissima,
2E. virens, Burlingtonia Candida, B. fragrans, Goslogyne pandurata,
Gyprlpedium barbatum, and varieties ; G. Fairrieanum, G. Mrsu-
tissimum, G. villosum, Denclrochilum glumaceum, Oncidium amplia-
tum majus, O. Lanceanum, Phalcenopsis amabilis, P. grandiflora, P.
Schilleriana, Saccolabium Blumei, S. guttatum, 8. retusum, Vanda
ccerulea, V. insignis, V, suavis, V. tricolor. The Phalamopsis, Sacco-
labiums, and Vandas are rather expensive, but they are remarkably
beautiful, and well worth the outlay incurred in their purchase.

Inteemediate Temperature. — Gattleya amabilis, G. crispa,
G. Dowiana, G. intermedia, G. labiata, G. maxima, G. mossiai, G. Skin-
neri, C. Tricmce, G. Warneri, Gcelogyne cristata, Dendrobium albo-
sanguineum, B>. chrysanthum, D. chrysotoxum, D. densiflorum, D.
Devonianum, D. Farmeri, D. moniliforme, D. ParisJii, D. Paxtoni,
FJpidendrum macrochilum, Laslia auhimnalis, L. majalis, L. pxwpu-
rata, Miltonia Moreliana, M. spectabilis, Oncidium altissimum, 0.
ornithorliynclium, 0. papilio, O. pidvinatum, Phaius Walliehi, Stan-
Jiopea oculata, 0. tigrina, Tliunia albus, T. Bensoniai, Trichopilia
eoccinea, T. suavis, Zygopetalum crinitum cazruleum.

Cool Tempeeatuee. — Barkeria Skinneri, B. spectabilis, Gattleya
citrina, Gypripedium insigne, G. venustum, Epidendrum aurantiacum,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 165

E. dichromum amabile, Ionopsis panieulata, Odontoglossum Alexandres,
0. citrosmum, 0. cordatum, 0. grande, 0. Insleayi, 0. luteo-pur-
pureum, 0. membraceum, O. phalcenopsis, 0. pulchellwm, 0. Rossi
superbum, O. triumplians, Oiwidium crispum, Pleione lagenaria,
and P. WallicM.

SELECT ZONAL AND VARIEGATED PELARGONIUMS.

BY JOnN WALSH.

[HE list of zonal and variegated pelargoniums has swollen
to such an inordinate size, that it is not by any means
an easy task to criticise fairly on the new varieties when
introduced to public notice, or to make out the best
selection possible of the older sorts according to the
purposes for -which they are required. It is very easy to make out
a list of good kinds ; but it is another matter to make a selection
which shall include the very best, and the best only, in the several
classes. For my part, if I did not possess unusual facilities for
becoming well acquainted with the best of new kinds before they
are put in commerce, and for thoroughly testing them afterwards, I
should shrink from the task of offering advice on such an important
matter ; and even now I approach ic with a considerable degree of
diffidence. In all the classes, with the. exception of the white-
edged and golden-leaved, several new varieties, possessing consider-
able merit, are now offered for the first time, and for the assistance
of buyers of novelties, it will, perhaps, be desirable to dispose of
them first.

Amongst the Golden Zonals, first place must be given to
Macbeth, a grand variety in the hands of Messrs. Bell and Thorpe,
of Stratford-on-Avon. The leaves are of splendid form, stout, and
massive, and the colour is heavily laid on ; indeed, it is the nearest
approach to perfection we yet have seen, and well deserved the first-
class certificate conferred upon it by the Royal Horticultural
Society when first exhibited. The Rev. R. Benyon, in the hands of
Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son, of the Wellington Road Nursery,
is wonderfully brilliant in colour, although hardly so perfect in form
as one could wish, and must be added to the most select list, for it is
a grand bedder, and in every way a most desirable acquisition.
Miss Goring and Mrs. Grieve, which are both in the hands of the last-
mentioned firm, are also very desirable. The leaves of each are of
fine form, and the colours are sharply defined and wonderfully rich
and brilliant. The first-named is also most valuable for winter
decoration, as the rich vermilion zone retains its brilliancy through-
out the whole year. Ettie Beale, now being sent out by Messrs.
Carter and Co., of High Holborn, deserves mention, as it is well
entitled to a place amongst the most select. Mr. Butter, which
has been exhibited several times by Mr. C. Turner, is of a different
type to the preceding ; and for those who care more for form than

166 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

colour, although it is hy no means dull, it will be much appreciated.
It is worthy of mention, as an evidence that their merits have not
been over-estimated, that all the above have received first-class
certificates from the Royal Horticultural Society.

The new additions to the list of Silver Zonals are not by any
means so satisfactory as those in the class just dealt with. The only
varieties I have seen which can be recommended as superior to
those which can be obtained at a much cheaper rate are Mrs. Hornby
and Princess Beatrice-, belonging to Mr. Turner and Mr. Plant
respectively ; and Clorinda and Mysterious JS7igJit, the property of
Messrs. E. Gr. Henderson and Son. Lass o' Gowrie is perhaps the
most valuable of all the silver zonals, and is expensive as yet ; but
it is hardly entitled to a place here, because it has been in commerce
one or two seasons.

In the Bronze Zonal section, first and foremost stand the mag-
nificent varieties in the hands of Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing,
of Forest Hill, who have done so much in the improvement of this
useful class. All the varieties they are now offering are good, but if
only two can be afforded, preference should be given to' Black
Douglas and Beine Victoria, because of their extreme effectiveness
and distinctness of character.

The Silver and Golden Variegated varieties cannot boast of any
improvement. There are no new kinds on offer this season. Pos-
tan's Snow-wreath, and Virgin Queen, and Cannell's Mrs. J. G.
Mappin, three white-edged varieties, with white flowers, which are
all most valuable for edging purposes. Ample amends are, however,
made in the zonal sections with green leaves, for the new varieties
now being sent out for the first time may be numbered by the
dozen. The best for bedding are undoubtedly Cannell's Master
Christine, a dwarf-growing and free-flowering variety, with flowers
of the Christine hue of pink ; but it is much dwarfer in growth, and
the flowers are stouter and of better form than that variety. Hib-
berd's Feast of Boses, a dwarf nosegay, producing medium-sized
trusses of rich rosy-pink flowers in the greatest profusion. Bell and
Thorpe's Charles Dickens, a neat grower, and a most profuse flower-
ing variety, with flowers of a rich rosy puce colour. Denny's
lanthe, bluish crimson, of a similar shade to Madame Mezard. Downie,
Laird, and Laing's Star of Fire, a neat dwarf-growing and free-
flowering nosegay, with flowers of the most brilliant scarlet ; and
Hibberd's Lilac Banner, also neat in growth and free-flowering,
and very valuable in the flower-garden, because of its distinct
colour.

The best twelve new varieties for pot-culture are Denny's
Haidee, magenta, with bluish shade ; Sir C. Napier, dark scarlet ;
Denny's Wellington, maroon scarlet ; Hibberd's Alice Spencer, pure
white, tinted with carmine at the base ; Cannell's Pride of LCent,
orange scarlet, with extra fine foliage ; "Windsor's Conflagration,
scarlet; Downie, Laird, and Laing's George Peabodi/, deep rich
scarlet, very rich and effective ; Downie, Laird, and Laing's Pink
May Queen, deep rosy pink, a grand nosegay for pot-culture ; and
Smith's Mr. Gladstone, deep crimson scarlet, of the single-flowering

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 1G7

varieties. Add Bell and Thorpe's Miss Evelyn, bright rosy pink ;
Cannell's Grown Prince, deep rosy peach ; Cannell's King of the
Doubles, bright cerise, flowers extra large, and grand for hand and
button-hole bouquets ; and Paul's Pink Perfection, of the double-
flowering varieties.

For pot culture, in addition to the above, the following twenty-
four are very desirable, namely — Single : Richard Meadly, Blue Bell,
Dr. Koch, jean Sisley, William Underwood, Windsor's Bride, CJrris-
tabel, Maiden's Blush, Mrs. Sack, Surpasse Beaute du Bwresnes,
Eugenie Mezard, Mada/me Mezard, Madame Werle, Gloire de Cor-
bervy, Coleshill, Mrs. Keeler, Othello, Amelina Grisau. Double :
Charles Glym, Prim-ess of Teclc, Victor Lemoine, Ville de Nancy,
Mar/'' Lemoine, Madame Michel Buchner.

The best twenty-four of the older gold, silver, and bronze zonals
for pot culture are — Gold : Mrs. Headly, Prince of Wales, Victoria
Regina, The Moonstone, Sophia Cusach, Lady Cullum, Mrs. Turner,
Mrs. Dnunett, Queen Victoria, Humming Bird, Plutarch. Silver:
Miss Burdett Coutts, Princess Beatrice, Mabel Morris, Caroline
Longfield, Imperatrice Eugenie, Banshee. Bronze: Imperatrice
Eugenie, Mrs. John Lee, W. R. Morris, Princess of Wales, Harrison
Weir, St. John's Wood Star, Fairy King, Waltham Bronze, Sybil.

For bedding purposes the following are the best that could pos-
sibly be had in the several classes :— Zonals and nosegay : Scarlet,
Thomas Moore, Jean Sisley, Orbiculata, Attraction, Bonfire, Morning
Star. Orange and Salmon, Hibberd's Orange Nosegay, President
Barber ot, Jean Valdean. Crimson and purple tinted, Le Grand,
Duchess of Sutherland, Black Dwarf, Murillo, Bayard, Waltham
Seedling. Rose and pink tinted, Christine, Hibberd's May Queen,
Kate Nicholson, Madlle. Nilsson. Cerise, Tristram Shandy, Lucius,
Cherry Lips. Lilac and purplish rose, Amy Hogg, Duchess, Dr.
Hogg, Blue Bell, Lilac Rival. "White, White Wonder, White
Princess.

Golden zonals, Beautiful Star, Louisa Smith, Madonna, Mrs.
Pollock, Rising Sun, Sophia Cusach. Silver zonals, Italia TJnita,
Nydia, Queen of Hearts, Imperatrice Eugenie, Flying Cloud, Charm-
ing Bride. Bronze zonals, Egyptian Queen, Climax, Kentish Hero,
Princess of Wales, Mrs. Lewis Lloyd, Fairy Ring, E. G. Henderson,
Mulberry 'Zone, Imperatrice Eugenie. "White and creamy variegated,
Albion Cliffs, Bright Star, Flower of Spring, Silver Chain, Bijou,
Oriana, Snowdrop, Queen of Queens, Daybreak, Princess Alexandra,
Waltham Bride, Avalanche. Golden-leaved: Crimson Banner,
Golden Banner, Crystal Pedace Gem, Star of Gold, Gold Circle,
Creed's Seedling, Golden Fleece, Little Golden Christine, Yellow Gem,
Gem of Brilliants, Jason, Waltham Gem. Meridian Sun, one of Mr.
Hibberd's newest of the new, will be the leading favourite for
masses of golden yellow leafage for many years to come.

168 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

BEDDEES AND BEDDING.— No. IV.

BY A. HEAD GAB.DENER.
SUBTROPICAL PLANTS.

[T would be absurd to fill the flower garden with masses of
Cannas, Castor-oil plants, and Solanums, to the ex-
clusion of flowering plants, and no matter how extensively
they may be planted in the public parks, they should
play a very subordinate part indeed in private gardens
of limited dimensions. Plants remarkable for their stately growth or
elegant leafage are very well, provided they are surrounded with bril-
liant colours to relieve their heaviness, but without they can be balanced
with flowering plants, they had better be omitted from the arrange-
ments altogether. In all private gardens they should be employed
very sparingly, and a few single specimens of good things should be
preferred to masses of plants of a second-rate character. Holding
these views, the selection of subtropicals will be very limited, and
will include only such as can be thoroughly recommended. In
small gardens it is a very good plan to back up the mixed border
with a bank of subtropical plants, including as many good things as
can be procured for the sake of affording as much variety as it is
possible to obtain in a limited space. Another good plan for dealing
with them in small gardens is to have two or three beds filled with
a mixed collection, or to put single specimens in the centre of beds
that stand out singly upon the lawn, and are planted with flowering
plants. Very choice specimen palms, india-rubber plants, and tree
ferns, where the situation is shaded from the sun, may be placed
singly on the grass, and the pots or tubs sunk below the level. Apart
from the eligibility of the specimens for the respective situations,
the only matter to consider in putting them in their allotted posi-
tions is to make the holes from one to two feet deeper than the
space occupied by the pots. The bottom of the holes must be then
filled to the required depth, with large pieces of brick or stone, or a
pot can be turned bottom upwards instead. This precaution is
necessary to prevent the soil in the pots becoming sour through
remaining in a saturated state, owing to the inability of the water to
escape quickly. In very sandy soils it is not so important to have
a hollow space underneath the pots as in those of a more retentive
character, but in the lightest soils the pots ought not to stand upon
the soil in the bottom. The majority of plants used for subtropical
gardening do much better when planted upon beds raised from twelve
to eighteen inches above the level, but for such things as will be
here recommended, it is not necessary to incur the labour and
expense of raising them, excepting in low damp situations. To
assist the planter the average height in feet of each will be given.

My selection for a small or medium-sized garden would comprise
Acacia lophantha, 6 ; Acanthus latifolius, 4 ; Andropogon formosum,
8 ; Aralia papyrifera, 5 ; A. Sieboldi, 4 ; Arundo conspicua, 6 ;
Bocconia cordata rotundifolia, 3 ; B. japonicv, 5 ; Canna Annei

TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

169

superla, 5 ; C. Bilwrelli, 4 ; C. CJ/atei sanguinea, 6 ; C. expansa, 4 ;
C. Lemonei, 6 ; C. nigricans, 6 ; C. Premices du Nice, 7 ; Cannabis
gigantea, 6 ; Cliamwpuce cassabonoc, 1 ; C. diacantlia, 1 ; Dahlia
Imperialis, 8 ; Datura fastuosa Huberiana, fl. pi. 4 ; Eucalyptus
globulus, 6 ; Ferdinandia eminens, 8 ; Melianthus major, 3 ; Nicotiana-
macrophylla gigantea, 6 ; N. Wigandioides, 6 ; Ricinus bourbonensis^
7 ; R. compactus, 6 ; i?. Obermanni, 8 ; R. sanguineus tricolor, 7 ;
Solanum acantliocarpum, 5 ; S. marginatum, 5 ; iS. robustum, 4 ;
8. Warscewiczi, 3 ; TF^cwicfo'oi caracasana, 4< ; W7". urens, 3 ; and Ze«.
japonica variegata, 5.

Special reference must be made to the very distinct and beau-
tiful Cyperus papyrus, which is so admirably adapted for the embel-

CYPEEUS PAPYRUS.

lishment of water scenes, as shown in the accompanying illustration.
They require a very moist position, and do much the best when planted
close upon the edge of the water. It is very easily raised from
seed, but the seed cannot be obtained, so far as I am aware, except
at Messrs. Hooper and Co., Central Avenue, Covent Garden. It is,
however, by no means dear. I think it was a shilling 1 paid Messrs.
H ooper for a packet of seed, and we have now a nice stock. To
raise a stock for next year, the seed should be sown at once, and
the plants grown on in a warm corner of the greenhouse during the
summer. The pots should be stood in pans containing two ox three
inches of water. The above-mentioned firm also offer seed of Cyperus
vegetatus, which bears a strong resemblance to the preceding, but
does not exceed eighteen inches in height, and is, therefore, very

170 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

valuable for situations where the strong-growing G. papyrus would
not be admissible.

The stately Dalilia Imperialis, if taken up in a careful manner,
and potted some time about the end of September, and then placed
in a warm greenhouse, will flower superbly until Christmas, and
present a fine appearance in conjunction with the Chrysanthemum.

ASTEES FOE CONSEEVATOEY DECOEATION.

BY THOMAS TETJSSLEE,

Head Gardener, High Leigh, Hoddesdon, Herts.

EFOEE the season is too far advanced I am anxious to
say a word about the cultivation of asters in pots for
conservatory decoration. It is true it is well to furnish
the conservatory during the summer and autumn with
plants as different as possible from those in the flower
garden, yet a few asters in pots when well grown present such a
cheerful appearance that no reasonable objection can be made to
their introduction into the conservatory in moderate numbers.
These remarks would perhaps have been more useful a month since,
but there is yet time to rise a stock of plants if the seed is sown
without delay, as the asters are not really wanted in the conservatory
until quite the end of the season.

It is not desirable to weary the reader with directions for sowing
seed, pricking off, and other details, because the merest tyro will
have some knowledge of these matters. It is, however, necessary
to state that the plants must not be allowed to remain in the seed-
pans until they are nearly spoilt before they are pricked off. Pro-
bably the best plan for dealing with both stocks and asters is to sow
the seed in drills in a cold frame, and then it is not necessary to
disturb the plants until they have acquired sufficient strength to
bear handling without injury. The object of these remarks is not
so much for the purpose of giving directions for raising the seed, as
it is to suggest the desirability of putting a few of those not required
for the flower garden into pots instead of throwing them away.

Asters, whether planted out, or grown in pots, require a
moderately rich soil to do them justice. The compost in which they
will succeed best when in pots is turfy loam and decayed manure
from an old hotbed, prepared by mixing three parts of the former to
one of the latter. Eive or six inch pots are very suitable sizes in
which to grow them, and two or three plants should be put in each.
In preparing the pots place three or four moderate-sized crocks in
the bottom, then fill with the prepared soil, and prick out the plants
at equal distances apart round the outside. Each pot should be
filled with plants that will produce flowers of the same colour, other-
wise the effect will be far from satisfactory when they are in bloom.
After they are all pricked off plunge them in a bed of leaf-mould,
or partly decayed manure in the borders. In either case the pots

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

171

must stand upon a hard bottom to prevent the worms getting into
the pots. When leaf-mould or manure is used, it is a good plan to
first of all make up a bed of coal-asbes, and then only put sufficient
material to reach to the rim of the pots when they stand upon the
ashes. When plunged in the border a pot must be placed in an
inverted position in the bottom of the hole to stand the other upon.
This precaution is necessary to enable the water to drain away
quickly, as well as for the purpose of keeping the worms out. They
should be put at a distance of twelve inches apart, in rows not less
than fifteen inches from each other, because it is most essential to
put them far enough apart to enable the air to circulate freely about
them and prevent them being drawn up, or the loss of the lower
leaves.

After the pots are filled with roots, water with liquid manure if
convenient to do so ; but if not, be content with watering with clear
soft water. They must not, under any consideration, be allowed

P2EONY-FLCWEP.ED GLOBE ASTER.

to suffer for the want of water, and in dry weather an occasional
sprinkle overhead through a rather coarse rose will be of immense
benefit. They should be taken to the conservatory as soon as the
flowers begin to show colour, and placed in an open airy position, if
practicable.

The best for pot culture are the varieties of the Divarf Clirysan-
ilirmwn-flowered, which seldom exceed a height of twelve inches,
and require little or no support. The most distinct varieties are
those with rose, carmine, violet, and pure lohite flowers.

The JPceony-floivered Globe, sent out by Messrs. Hooper and
Co. of Covent Garden, is also good in pots, but invaluable for
garden decoration. The accompanying figure will afford a good
idea of its general habit when it has sufficient space for its full
development.

173 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

TOMATOES.

EX GEOKGE GEAY,
Head Gardener, Norbiton Hall, Kingston-on-Thames.

[NTIL the last few years, the cultivation of tomatoes was
confined almost exclusively to the gardens of the
wealthy ; but now, so much has their popularity in-
creased, they are grown more or less in the gardens
of all classes. It is not likely that the tomato will ever
attain in this country to the degree of popularity it enjoys at the
present time in America ; but there can be no doubt that when its
cultivation and the manner of preparing the fruit for table are better
understood, there will be very few gardens indeed in which it is
not grown extensively.

Excepting in the southern and midland parts of the country, the
plants must, to enable them to .produce good crops, have the
assistance of a wall, or close boarded fence ; and they do better even
in the most favoured districts when trained to a wall or fence having a
south aspect. They do well on east and west aspects, but an aspect
due south is decidedly preferable. Good crops can be produced on
sloping banks ; and those who have no wall or fence on which to
train the plants may succeed very well by throwing up a bank of
soil having a sharp slope of about three feet. The trench from
which the soil is obtained for making the mound should be made on
the north side, because they require all the warmth at the roots they
can have, and it is therefore not desirable to plant below the general
level.

In the southern and midland counties good crops can be grown
in the open borders, and trained to stakes, or the growth may be
.supported with ordinary pea-sticks, in exactly the same manner as
peas. Those put out in the open quarters should be planted upon
beds measuring thirty inches across the top and about twelve inches
above the general level. The beds can be easily made by forming
a twelve-iuch trench on each side, and taking out sufficient soil to
raise them to the desired height. The surface of the beds should be
perfectly level, to prevent the rain running off, and also to facilitate
watering, in case it becomes necessary, during the summer.

One of the most essential conditions for insuring success is to
secure strong plants by the time the season is sufficiently advanced
for planting them out. As the weather is seldom favourable enough
to admit of their being planted out, without they can be protected,
before the end of May, it is a more excellent plan to shift them into
eight-inch pots in the early part of the month. It is, however, a much
better plan to plant them out in the first or second week of May,
and protect them with Looker's Patent Plant-covers, which were
figured and described in the August number of the Floeal Woeld of
last year. Strong plants put out early in May, and these covers put
over them, and ventilated freely in congenial weather, will be well

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 173

established long before it would be safe to put them out without
protection. The covers are certainly one of the most valuable aids
the amateur can possibly have.

Previous to planting, fork in a moderate dressing of leaf-mould
or vegetable manure if the soil is at all heavy, and ordinary hotbed
manure if it is inclined to be light. The soil must not be
manured too heavily, or the plants will grow too luxuriantly to
bear well.

Commence training immediately the plants begin to grow freely,
whether trained to walls or stakes. Spread the branches out rather
widely apart, and remove all the small shoots that are not really
required to prevent overcrowding. Stop the main branches when
about three feet in height, and stop all the laterals one joint above
each cluster of fruit as soon as it is set. All young wood that is
produced after sufficient fruit is set must be removed immediately it
is a few inches in length, to prevent the energies of the plants being
devoted to the production of useless wood, instead of the maturation
of the crop. It is also a very good plan to remove any of the
large leaves that overhang the clusters of fruit as soon as it is
nearly full grown, to enable the sun to act directly upon it.

Very excellent crops may be grown in pots ; and that system of
culture can be strongly recommended to those who have only a little
garden, as the plants can be placed in any out-of-the-way corner,
provided they can have full exposure to the sun. The stopping and
training must be much the same as advised above for the plants in
the open border, and they can be easily supported with neat stakes.
Pot in a compost, consisting of good turfy loam and a small portion
of manure, and when the fruit is swelling off, water with weak
liquid manure, if the plants show signs of exhaustion.

The fruit should be gathered as soon as it is thoroughly ripened,
and towards the end of the autumn any that is still immature may
be gathered and ripened cff in a warm room, provided it is nearly or
quite full grown. The best and most productive kinds are the
Orangefield, General Grant, and Hepper's Goliath. The Common
Bed is exceedingly good, and for small gardens will, in conjunction
with the first-named, be sufficient for all purposes. The so-called
upright grower, Tomato de Laye, is very late in ripening, and compa-
ratively worthless in this country because of the shortness of the
summer.

Early Peas. — Mr. G. Green, gardener to tie Ven. Archdeacon Fitzgerald, of
Charlton Mackerell, Taunton, picked his first dish of peas on the 10th of May, although,
he might have done so on the 8th. The sort was "Sutton's Ringleader." They
•were sown in the open air on Nov. 19, and have had but little protection.— Western
Gazette, May 13.

Scarlet Runners. — Plant them in trenches two feet -wide and three feet in
depth ; the bottom spit being thrown out on one side, and about the same quantity
of vegetable refuse, ov goo 1 manure, incorporated with the soil. When the trenching
is done, the soil from the bottom is placed in a ridge on each side of the trench, to
prevent the water applied o the rows running all over the quarter, instead of soaking
down to the roots. The produce will be enormous.

174 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

THE SETTING OE MUSCAT GRAPES.

HE setting of Muscat grapes, and indeed of all other kinds
of grapes that are reputed to be "shy," or that fail to
fruit freely unless skilfully treated, affords a subject
worthy of special consideration at any time amongst
English cultivators, because even doctors do occasionally
differ, and some of the most successful practitioners in the vinery
hold diverse views as to the best mode of procedure for insuring a
crop. In our " Garden Guide," this subject has always received
considerable attention, aud we have frequently remarked on the
necessity of obtaining and maintaining in the house during the time
the vines are in flower, conditions favourable to the development aud
diffusion of the pollen, such as sufficient fire-heat, a moderate degree
of humidity, and a moving atmosphere. "VVe have seen in so many
instances varieties of grapes reputed to be shy, made to bear abun-
dant crops through attention being paid to the three main conditions
of success, that we can scarcely hesitate to attribute failures to bad
management in at least niue-teutbs of the complaints that reach us
of the refusal of Muscats to compensate their owners with the much-
coveted bunches. It is rather commonly believed — though, strange
to say, not so commonly acted on — that excessive heat and a per-
fectly dry atmosphere are essential conditions for success in the
setting of Muscats ; and the man who has a " Muscat house," and is
not compelled to crowd it with pot-plants requiring somewhat diffe-
rent treatment, may actually roast his vines, if he believe in roast-
ing, and judge of the value of his doctrine by the result simply. It
is as well that all who have to deal with Muscats should clearly
understand that the roasting system is a delusion, and must be
abandoned by all who would truly succeed in the cultivation of
Muscats.

The conditions requisite to the well-doing of Muscats in flower
may be stated thus : Temperature to range from 70° at night to 75°
by day, allowing a rise to 85° with sun-heat. The floor of the house
to be moistened about half-past seven in the morning and about
four in the afternoon ; the air kept moving always ; when the
flowers are expanded, each bunch to have a slight shake once a day.

S. H.

EAISING BEGONIAS FROM LEAVES.

jARIEGATED Begonias are usually propagated from
leaves. To treat them in this way, select of this sea-
son's leaves such as are gi-own nearly or quite to
their full size, and consequently are firm and not likely
to damp off. Take the leaves off with about one or
two inches of leaf-stalk, and if you require as many plants from a
leaf as you can obtain, take an ordinary shallow seed-pan, and after
preparing it in the usual way, insert the stalk portion of the leaf

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 175

near the side of the pan, and peg the leaf flat down upon the surface.
Before doing this, it is as well to cut through the principal ribs or
veins with a sharp knife. Plenty of roots will soon be emitted fro in
the cuts, and finally young buds will start, and tiny plants be the
result. Plants will also be produced where the pegs are pushed
through the leaf. It is impossible to say how many leaves a pan
will hold, for this part of the question depends entirely upon its size
and that of the leaves. We cover the entire surface of our pans,
keeping the stalks by the sides of the pans. If we have plenty of
leaves to deal with, we adopt a slightly different method of procedure.
Instead of using the leaf in its entirety, we take the leaf with a
couple of inches of stalk as before, and then trim the blade of the
leaf away, leaving a small portion, about two or three inches in
diameter, adhering to the stalk. These we insert round the edges of
the cutting-pots in exactly the same way as an ordinary cutting. It
is not advisable to keep these cuttings too close or give them too
much water, for both conditions, either together or separately, are
sufficient to cause them to rot. When they are nicely rooted and the
youug plants are formed, pot off into 60's, and grow them liberally until
the end of September, when they must have less water and be kept
rather quiet. It is a very bad plan to keep this section of begonias
growing all the winter, for the constitution of the plant becomes so
thoroughly weakened that they are unable to make a free vigorous
growth in the spring, when it is required of them. E. W. P.

CALCEOLAEIAS FOE BEDDING.

[HIS intensely showy plant scarcely merits to be classed
at the very top of the list of first-rate bedders, because
of its capriciousness aud consequent frequent failure in
those hot seasons which bring most other bedding
plants to their highest perfection. The gardeners have
a good deal to answer for on account of its misuse, thereby
affording the critics, who embrace every opportunity to appear
wise by abusing the bedding system, a powerful argument in
support of their poor case. The chief fault of the calceolaria is its
inconstancy. It is not uncommon for all the calceolarias in the
country to perish about the middle of July, leaving the parterres
they should have adorned with masses of golden flowers abominably
ugly with their withered stumps, or, at the best, obnoxious blanks.
Iu the experimental garden at Stoke Newington, the cultivation of
this plant has received considerable attention, and it is believed
that every difficulty experienced by amateurs may be overcome by
the adoption of the system of cultivation which will now be re-
commended. The only varieties suitable for bedding are those of
decidedly shrubby habit, which produce comparatively small flowers.
Those that have somewhat soft stems, and large leaves and large
flowers, partake too much of the characters of the herbaceous
section to be fit for battling with the vicissitudes of outdoor life,

176 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

and, moreover, they always produce their flowers in a series of
efforts, and not continuously. The proper time to propagate them
is from the middle of September to the middle of November,
when they do not require heat ; but they may be very quickly
multiplied by cuttings in a gentle heat in spring ; and, if the bummer
is favourable to calceolarias, spring-struck plants do well, though
they do not begin to flower so early as those struck in autumn.
There can be no better method of procedure than to make up a
bed of light soil, consisting of such materials as leaf-mould,
sweepings of a manure heap, half-decayed moss, and the sandy
stuff thrown out of pots in the potting-sheds. The bed should be
in a frame or pit, within a foot of the glass, or on the border of a
cool vinery or peach-house, as near the glass as possible. Prepare
the cuttings from soft side-shoots, and plant them firmly in the bed,
about three inches apart, and keep them regularly sprinkled to
maintain their freshness until they are rooted, after which they will
require but little more attention beyond watering, ventilating, and
protecting from frost. They must be wintered rather dry, and have
plenty of air, or many will perish. There is yet another extremely
simple, but most effectual, method of procedure. Its first requisite
is a greenhouse, or pit, which is sufficiently heated to keep out
frost. In this structure the bed is to be made up near the glass, of
some such light kindly soil as recommended for the frame. Leave
the plants in the ground until the middle of October, or, if the
weather permits, until the middle of November ; then pull them
to pieces so as to separate the best young shoots with a heel,
and strip the bottom leaves from them, and dib them in, and
press them firm, and the work may be considered finished. As for
the roots, throw them away. They may be crowded together so as
to make a solid field of leafage ; but, as a rule may be useful, we
will say plant them three inches apart. A slight sprinkle over
the tops occasionally will be good for them, but they must be
kept rather dry, and must have a little heat to help them through
frosty weather. No matter which of these two methods be adopted,
the whole of the plants must be lifted in the first week of March,
and be planted out in beds of light rich earth in frames facing the
south, where they wall make rapid progress if taken care of. The
latter part of the month of April is the proper time to plant
calceolarias ; if the planting is deferred the plants are endangered.
The beds for calceolarias should be prepared by deep digging and
liberal manuring with rotten hotbed manure and leaf-mould ; and if
there is no leaf-mould at command, use an additional dressing of the
hotbed manure in place of it. If planted in poor ill-dressed soil,
the plants are endangered ; in fact, the principal reason of the failure
of the calceolaria in a hot dry season is defective root-hold, the
result of planting late in poor soil, the plants having been already
nearly starved to death in pots as a preparation for their final
extinction. In the operation of planting, the plants should always
be put into the ground as deep as possible, but of course without
burying the branching portion of the stem. Deep planting encou-
rages the formation of a fresh set of roots, and places the roots

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 177

already formed at the greatest possible distance from the surface,
where they are comparatively safe against the exhaustive action of a
hot sun. As to watering, one or two liberal doses may be given
within the first ten days after planting, but it is far better to give
none at all if only the ground is moist enough to carry them on
safely until the next rains occur. A considerable quantity of bedding
plants are killed every year by watering them, or rather, by torment-
ing them, with a pretence of watering. As for varieties, there are
not many good ones, but the few that are most worthy of attention
are wondrously brilliant if they happen to behave well. Amplexicaulis
is the tallest in growth, the flowers are palest yellow. Aurea flori-
bunda, Canariensis, Gaines's Yellow, and Golden Gem have deep
yellow flowers, and in habit are dwarf and compact. The red and
brown varieties are simply useless. S. H.

SUBTROPICAL GARDENING.

BY A LADY'S GAEDEKEPw

SUBTROPICAL gardening is, for the most part, pursued
under difficulties, for few of us have as yet sufficiently
studied the habits and requirements of the plants em-
ployed under the conditions in which we so unmercifully
place them when wre plant them. Nor, indeed, do we
make a good use of facts previously gleaned. Look, for instance, at
the extensive use we make of such plants as the different varieties
of Coleus and Achyranthus ; yet at bedding-out time we seem almost
to forget that these are plants which must be tenderly nursed in the
winter in stove-heat. Now, if they require such care in our long
dark winters, how can we expect them to thrive through the summer,
with our commonplace preparations out of doors r1 Tet too many of
us do expect it, as is evidenced by the number of plants we prepare
and rejoice over. From my own observations respecting these plants,
I am sure they require more earth-heat than they get from our
ordinary prepared flower-beds, and the careful observer can satisfy
himself of this if he will call to mind how much better these plants
thrive towards the close of summer, when the earth attains its
greatest degree of heat, than they do in the first months of the
bedding season. This, then, satisfies me, that if by any means we
can assist them to secure more warmth than the soil affords at an
earlier period of the summer, the better result will be obtained in
the use of these plants. For this purpose, the adoption of flower-
beds prepared by special drainage is the simplest and most economical
method ; and the drainage should consist of such materials as are
known to absorb and conduct heat, — on something like the plan
followed, with well-known success, by Mr. Gibson, at Battersea
Park. But to be more precise, all the soil should be taken out of
the bed two feet deep ; or if a line of the plants is wanted, a trench
a foot wide would serve the same purpose. Into this trench or bedj
VOL. VI. — NO. VI. 12

178 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

whichever it may be, place a thickness of twelve inches of brick-
heads or large stones, as these are the best conductors of heat, aud
then fill up with rich, fine, open soil. The brick-heads or stones
will not only afford a ready means of escape for all unappropriated
water, and thus render the ground drier and warmer, but will con-
tribute a degree of warmth to the soil above by conduction from the
surrounding earth. Some might suppose that this drainage beneath
would necessitate watering in dry weather ; but, from my own
experience on a small scale last year, I did not find it so. But I
found out another plan which is better than watering, and that is,
frequent top-dressings of rich compost. "We all know the roots of
these plants are near the surface, which is another proof that they
delight to ramify in the warmest soil. Now, to encourage these
roots to the warm soil of the surface, and to keep them constantly
supplied with rich surface-dressings, should be the constant aim of
the gardener. I am satisfied that by this course of procedure, in
favourable seasons and positions, we should have these plants in
their beauty much earlier in the year than we now generally see
them.

I do not think the Amaranthus melancholicus would be benefited
by the plan above recommended, as it is in some positions a very
unsatisfactory subject to deal with. The best way to do it well is to
obtain good plants in single pots, and not put them out until the
first week in June. When they are well established, follow up the
plan of surface-dressing as just recommended, and give repeated
doses of weak manure-water to the weakest plants, leaving the
stronger-growing ones to take care of themselves. By following
this plan, I have frequently had some magnificent lines in our ribbon-
borders.

I have succeeded to a fair degree with the Altern anther as on a
warm south border, in a rich fine soil specially prepared, but I do
not recommend them to those who cannot afford time and patience
in their cultivation. The only way I have found them to answer
ray expectations was to get large well-established plants in 32-sized
pots, and plunge them in their pots, about midsummer, in the open
border for an edging.

All the Golden-leaved Pelargoniums, or Geraniums, are delicate
plants, and the best amongst them all is Golden Chain. They all
like a rich open soil, but a cold soil and stagnant water about them
is their ruin in many gardens.

The Japanese Maize is an elegant and useful variegated plant,
either for centres of beds or to be associated with subtropical plants ;
or, indeed, it is a nice feature in the mixed border, as its habit is
graceful as well as refined.

The Ricinus, or <{ Castor-oil plant," is one of those subjects very
imperfectly done in the majority of cases. People with limited con-
venience sow this plant generally in the beginning of March, when
the middle of April is soon enough, where there is not much room
to grow it. To have it in perfection, the plant must be kept always
growing from the time the first seed-leaves show themselves ; for if
once they are allowed to get starved for the want of root-room in

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 1^9

the pots, the bottom leaves turn yellow and very soon fall off, and
the beauty of the plant is lost. This plant ought to be put out with
every leaf entire, and as fresh and bright as the young growth at
top. It may be kept through the winter in a house where the
temperature does not go below 503, and such plants, although some-
what long-legged, make grand features for centres or backgrounds
the next season.

Caladium esculentum is another noble and telling object for any
purpose where fine-foliage plants are admissible. It requires liberal
treatment in the way of plenty of pot-room and rich soil for three
months previous to its being planted out, and then it well repays
for the trouble. It will succeed admirably in warm sheltered places
out of doors, but requires plenty of water and frequent syringing
overhead.

A common mistake, made by many of us, is putting out these
tender subjects too early. On the first outburst of summer weather
in May, the "bedding mania" takes hold of us, and we commence
operations in earnest, seemingly regardless of the consequences of a
change of weather. The present season is no exception, yet I will
undertake to say there are thousands of these tender subjects out,
exposed not only to cold nights, but cold days ; and then we wonder
why they don't thrive. Let those who have erred this year take my
advice for the future and grow the plants larger, and wait until the
first week in June next year, and I can promise them they will have
no cause to regret having done so.

THE GE11MAN BEEHIVE.

BY SIR THOMAS TANCRED, BAKT.

[jN the course of an interesting and most valuable paper on
" Bee- Culture," read at the Inventors' Institute, Sir
Thomas Tancred, Bart., gave the following account of
the "Improved German Hive."

In order to obtain the testimony of a disinterested
writer as to the essentials of a good hive, I will cite, not a German,
but a French author. I find these essentials well summed up by the
latest Erench writer on this subject with which I am acquainted, the
Abbe Sagot, in his Culture des Aheilles ; —

" Every hive which does not allow artificial swarms to be easily
made without stupefying the bees, and the honey to be taken with-
out disturbing them or destroying the brood, and the provisions
necessary for it, is defective, and will soon discourage a bee-keeper,
instead of inducing others to imitate him. The best hive, therefore,
is one which, whilst agreeable to the nature of the bees, at the same
time allows their possessor to execute with ease all the operations
belonging to apiculture — such as a complete inspection of the combs
at the opening of spring, prompt and plentiful feeding when necessary,
propagation by artificial swarms on any day required at the will of

180

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the manager, without having to mount guard over the hives for
weeks, and to race across country in pursuit of natural swarms ;
easy extraction of the purest honey as often as it may be suitable,
without deranging the bees in their work, and without destroying a,
single particle of the brood, or of the provisions ^stored up for it ;
means of emptying the combs so as to replace them to be refilled by
the bees without their being called upon to waste the best honey
season in providing new ones ; lastly, instantaneous reunion of bees
in October without stupefying or drumming them out, and without
any fighting. Such are the advantages in general little known,

very little practised,
and often impractic-
able in many sorts of
hives, yet most neces-
sary to make apicul-
ture an agreeable and
useful occupation."

These requisites
werenever really com-
bined in any single
hive, though some of
them might be more
or les3 imperfectly
attained, till'Dzierzon
brought out his ex-
ceedingly clever idea
of making each comb
movable, so that every
comb could be taken
outandexamined sepa-
rately ; and not only
so, but all the hives
in the apiary being
exactly of one diame-
ter, no matter how
different in other re-
spects, any comb in
any one can be inter-
changed with any
Fig 1. Brood Hive. A, Lighting-board. B, False comb in any other,
bottom. C, Stopper inserted beneath false bottom. In this way through-
D, Double ties of sliding frames. E, Cover sur- cut Germany thehives
mounting the honey-box. macIe on [Dzierzon's

principle, whether of straw, wood, or other materials, and, however
different in internal capacity, are on a uniform gauge of 9f English
inches. In addition to securing all the requisites above stated, this
improved German Hive admits of contracting or expanding the
space occupied, by pushing forwards or drawing back a sliding glazed
sash at each end, as I will presently show you.

Now, asking you to keep in mind the requirements enumerated
by the French apiculturist, I will give an explanation of the pecu-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

181

liarities of the hives before you (see Fig. 1). You will observe that
the hives are distinguished by a letter, a number, or a name, which
should be entered in a note-book, which can be easily carried in the
pocket, in order that notes may be made on the spot when any hive
is examined, so that important particulars about each may readily be
referred to without any mistake. These letters, numbers, or names
being written in capitals and Roman numerals at one end, and on all
the parts belonging to that end, and in small letters or Arabic
numerals at another end, the parts so marked can readily be replaced,
so as to fit whenever
the hive is opened. The
weight also of the empty
hive should be inscribed
upon each, so as to be
able readily to ascertain
any increase or diminu-
tion of the variable con-
tents. You observe I
take my keys from my
pocket, which may also
have the distinguishing
mark of each hive upon
them, and open the outer
doors (see Fig. 3). No
hinges are employed, as
they are apt to crush
bees, though, if pre-
ferred, they might be
fitted to the bottoms of
the outer doors, but the
plan adopted is more
simple.

Within the outer
wooden doors cushions
of tow, wool, waddiug,
etc., are kept against the
glass of the inner sashes
to make them warmer.

These inner sashes VOU Flg. 2. Sliding glazed sash, a a a a, Recesses cor-
Will observe, slide to and rfP°«*ng ^ fillet in hive, b, Aperture for insertion
j. n-., , of a smoker for quieting bees, c .stopper lor closing

fro on fillets or runners, the aperture< £I(J. 3. Door of hive. FlGi 4. Move-
so as to enable me to able frame,
expand or contract the

interior capacity of the hive at will. In winter, a comparatively few
combs partly filled with honey are required by the bees, and the
empty ones being removed and stored up safely, the sliding sashes
may be moved towards the centre, and pasted over with paper, the
space between them and the outer doors being filled with tow, dry
moss, hay, etc., so as to keep the hive entirely free from draughts.
The combs are to be worked in these sliding frames (see Fig. 4), as
you see by the one partly filled with honey. In order to induce the

182 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

bees to work their combs straight and parallel within the frames,
a strip of guide comb is fastened along the under side of the top
bar of each frame, by means of a mixture of bees-wax and resin
melted in an iron spoon over a candle or lamp, as you see. Each
frame is made to hang at a defined distance from centre to centre,
so as to admit of a passage for the bees between every two con-
tiguous combs when arrived at their proper thickness, the width of
the widest part of the frame being li inches. This is important in
the under or brood box, but in the upper or honey box the interval
may be greater, as the bees will prolong the cells and make the
combs of greater thickness when intended only for storing honey
than they could if intended for rearing brood.

There are twenty-four combs in the hive when expanded to
its greatest capacity, and as each frame contains a superficies of
9 in. x 8 = 72 square inches, the whole of the combs in the brood-
box occupy a superficial space on each side of 1728 square inches.
When this space, or nearly as much, has been well built up and filled
with combs and bees, the stopper at the top being taken out, an
entrance is opened through a wooden grating to the honey-box
placed above it, by which it is expected that the dame or mother-bee
will be prevented from entering this box, so that only virgin honey
will be stored in it..

Following the example of the German model, I at first made the
honey-box with outer wooden and internal glazed sashes, etc., just
like the stock or brood hive ; but, in considering the subject, I found
that I was going to a needless cost in this respect, and 1 now make
them much more simple and inexpensive, as in the one I now
exhibit.

The false bottom of the lower box being formed of separate thin
boards, can be easily taken out, either for the purpose of cleaning-
out the dead bees and other refuse in spring, or for introducing a
shallow feeder at that season, whilst the stops at each end keep any
bees from escaping below the glazed sashes.

The lighting-board is made to take off, in order not to be incon-
venient in travelling ; and if the hive be moved when peopled with
bees, by fixing a piece of pierced zinc in front of the entrance, as
well as over the opening on the opposite side, a thorough draught
can be established to keep the hive cool on a journey.

I have thus explained the construction of the improved German
hive, and I have here some varieties of structure adapted for par-
ticular purposes and operations, which will be explained below. I
believe that the more practically acquainted any one is with bee
management, the more he will appreciate the complete control over
a stock of bees afforded by these hives. To pretend to describe all
the ways of using them in detail would evidently be impossible
within the compass of a lecture ; to do so would be to give a com-
plete treatise on practical bee-keeping. I can only assert that there
is no operation possible with bees which cannot be performed with
these hives, and I believe more easily than with any other yet
invented.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 183

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOE JUNE.

Elowee Garden. — If not already done, old stools of such things
as produce a multiplicity of flower-spikes, like the Phlox, should be
looked over, and the weakest of the flowering shoots thinned out.
Stake those left, and also flowering-spikes of Delphiniums, Lilies,
etc., to prevent the wind snapping them off. Pansies that have
done flowering should be cut back, and cuttings made of the young
side-shoots as they push. The superfluous shoots should be removed
from briers intended for budding, and the remaining ones shortened
back, if they are growing too vigorously. This should be done a
fortnight previously to the buddiug being performed, so that there
shall be no check to the flow of sap at that time. Seed of annuals
for autumn flowering should be sown soon ; this is also a good time
for sowing seed of herbaceous perennials for flowering next year.
"When left until the autumn, the plants are seldom strong enough to
flower well the following year.

Kitchen Garden. — Endive and lettuce ought to be sown where
they are to remain at this season. There need be no waste of seed,
as it can be sown very thinly. Plant out cabbage, and cauliflower
for the autumn, and Brussels sprouts, borecole, broccoli, and savoys
for the winter. Choose a dull, moist day, if possible, for all planting
operations. The ground should be got in readiness for planting as
fast as it becomes vacant, so that there may be no unnecessary delay
when we are favoured with showery weather. Plant out the early
crop of celery, and shade with a few branches of evergreen until the
plants are established, and keep well supplied with water. Sow at
the end of the month a few rows of any good second early marrow
peas for late autumn supply.

Ertjit Garden. — Let the work of thinning the young shoots pro-
gress steadily, and leave no more wood than is really wanted for
bearing next year, and filling up vacancies that are likely to occur.
Pinch cherries, plums and pears back to the third or fourth leaf, to
encourage the production of spurs. Pyramids, espaliers, and cor-
dons should have just as much attention as wall-trees; thin out the
shoots where the trees are likely to be crowded with too much wood,
and stop the other shoots back to the same distance as recommended
above, llemove all runners from the strawberry-beds, unless they
are required for layering.

Conservatory. — The whole of the hard-wooded plants ought to
be removed into the open air some time this month, according to
the state of the young growth. The utmost caution is necessary,
just now, to see that the plants have sufficient water at the roots,
but without having too much. The specimens must be looked over
regularly, rain or no rain. It is a mistake to suppose that a shower
of rain is sufficient for plants in pots. Pelargoniums are now fast
going out of flower ; they should be removed to the open air to
mature the young wood, and then be cut back to two or three eyes
each. Euehsias may have liberal supplies of manure-water to help

184 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

them on as the pots get full of roots. Pot off cuttings just struck,
and shift on young stuff, so that no check may be experienced by
them at this stage.

Stove. — The plants in this structure must have a good syringing
overhead at least once a day in bright weather, and not be allowed
to suffer for the want of water at the roots. A few cans of water
should be poured on the paths several times during the day. Any
of the stove-plants that are to go into the conservatory when in
bloom should be removed to the coolest end, or go into an interme-
diate house a week previous. Stove-plants should have the warmest
position the conservatory affords, and be guarded from draughts.

.Forcing. — The bottom-heat in which the pines are plunged must
not be allowed to decline now — more especially in the fruiting-
house. Shift into larger pots suckers and succession plants that are
getting pot-bound. Vines in all stages to have abundant ventilation
early in the day. The borders must be kept well supplied with water,
except where the grapes are just colouring. Peaches and nectarines
must be well aired directly the crop begins to ripen, and the lights
taken off, where practicable, soon after it is gathered ; or, failing the
ability to do that, the ventilators must be opened as wide as possible,
and the trees regularly syringed. Plenty of moisture at the roots
will also be necessary, to enable them to swell up the buds for next
year. Pigs must be kept rather cool and dry whilst the first crop is
ripening, and then, when the bulk is gathered, they can be kept moist
and close to push on the second lot.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

J|HE month of May has been characterized by the prevalence
of cold north-easterly winds, which, as is so well
known, are by no means favourable to the rapid pro-
gress of early-sown crops, and many things are late
in consequence. So much damage has not, however,
been done to the fruit crops as was anticipated at one time, and
from all parts of the country we hear most favourable accounts of
the fruit prospects for the ensuing season. The crop of peaches and
nectarines is rather thin in comparison with that of last year, for
the sharp frosts, with which the trees were visited when in bloom,
destroyed a considerable proportion of the flowers ; but owing to the
weather being very dry at the time, the frosts did not do so much
damage as was expected at the time. Apples, pears, cherries, plums,
and apricots are tolerably plentiful, a few of the flowers on the
outside of the trees only having been injured, and we may once
more reasonably expect an abundant fruit harvest.

The exhibitions during May have been so numerous that to do
more than direct attention to a few of the most important of recent
introductions is impossible. The two exhibitions held by the Royal
Horticultural Society, on the 3rd and 17th respectively, were re-
markably poor, although it would not be just to pronounce them

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 185

failures. The exhibition on the 20th, at the Crystal Palace was,
like the great summer exhibitions held in former years, a grand
affair, as the leading stove and greenhouse plants, such as Azaleas,
Aphelexis, Ixoras, Pimelias, and Heaths, were exhibited in grand
condition. The exhibition of the Royal Botanic Society, Regent's
Park, on the 25th and 26th, was also good ; but the best and most
magnificent exhibition held during the present season is that in the
gardens of the Manchester Horticultural and Botanical Society at
Old Trafford, which commenced on the 26th ult. and will be con-
tinued until the 2nd inst. A fair idea may be had of its extent,
when it is said that about £1,000 was offered in prizes, and that
nearly the whole of the classes are well filled.

At the first exhibition held by the Royal Horticultural Society
during the month, the specialities were Auriculas, herbaceous Cal-
ceolarias, and Pot Roses. The Auriculas were not shown largely,
but they were contributed in grand condition by Mr. Turner, of
Slough, and Mr. James, gardener to "W. P. Watson, Esq., Redlees,
Isleworth, who respectively occupied the first places in the classes
open to the trade and private growers. Mr. James was also first in
the class for six herbaceous Calceolarias, with medium-sized, but
beautifully grown specimens. Messrs. Dobson and Son, Isleworth,
also staged a good collection of these showy flowers, which, although
hardly so good as those shown by Mr. James, presented a most
striking contrast to those staged, in competition for the prizes, by
several other exhibitors. Pot Roses were simply grand, and all the
leading growers of this lovely flower came out in strong force. The
very best collection of large specimens was that from the nurseries
of Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, and consisted of Anna
Alexieff, Celine Forrestier, Marie Baumann, Charles Lawson, Victor
Verdier, Madame Willermoz, Marechal Vaillant, and Souvenir d'un
Ami, all of which are most valuable for pot-culture. The greatest
interest was attached to the competition in the class for twelve
plants, grown in pots not exceeding ten inches in diameter, because
the limit to the size of the pot enabled the exhibitors to stage several
of the newer kinds. Messrs. Paul and Son were also first in this
class, as they well deserved to be, for the plants were in the most
robust health, and superbly flowered. The varieties of which the
collection consisted were Edward Morren, Comtesse d' Oxford, Reine
d'Or, Jules Chretien, Duke of Edinburgh, Julie Touvais, Madame
Eugene Verdier, Dupuy Jamain, Marquise de Castellane, Paul
Neron, and Lord Eldon. The last-mentioned is a new tea variety,
with large, globular, and full flowers of a clear salmon colour in the
way of the well-known and justly-popular Gloire de Dijon. This
was awarded a first-class certificate, as also was Princess Beatrice, a
new perpetual hybrid, with large globular flowers of a rosy carmine
hue, exhibited by Mr. W. Paul, Waltham Cross.

Of the miscellaneous new plants at the same exhibition, Primula
japonica, exhibited by Mr. Bull, King's Road, Chelsea, attracted the
most attention. This magnificent species has stout robust foliage
very similar to that of the cowslip, and the flowers are produced in
whorls, one above the other, on stout and rather tall scapes, each

186 THE FLORAL "WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

scape having from three to six whorls. In shape the flowers are
very similar to those of one of the best herbaceous Phloxes, and are
of a rich rosy crimson hue, with deep or coloured eye. A light
variety, P. japonica lilacina, with lilac flowers, having a rosy crimson
eye, was also exhibited, and formed a beautiful contrast with the
dark flowers of the species. Both were introduced by Mr. B.
Fortune, from Japan, and if they are quite hardy, as they are said
to be, they will certainly be most valuable acquisitions to our list of
border flowers. Gloxinia Rev. H. H. Dombrain, a drooping variety,
with large flowers of the most perfect form, and of a lively carmine
hue, exhibited by Messrs. Follisson and Sons, Tooting, was first-
rate. Tropseolum Mrs. Bowman, exhibited by Messrs. Downie, Laird,
and Laing, Forest Hill, S.E., promises to eclipse all the other scarlet
flowered varieties for cultivation in pots for winter decoration, and
it also has the appearance of being a valuable bedder. It is very
neat in growth, and the flowers, which are of a most brilliant scarlet
and of the most perfect form, are produced very freely, indeed, the
plants exhibited were quite solid with bloom. The same firm sent
with the above, Iberis Gibraltarica, a beautiful perennial candytuft,
with very large flowers of a pale flesh colour ; this is now rather
plentiful in the trade and can be highly recommended as one of the
best plants of its class for flowering in spring. Messrs. Yeitch and
Sons, Chelsea, exhibited Croton Johannis, a very elegant grower with
narrow, richly variegated leaves ; Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Hol-
loway, Amaryllis maryinata perfecta, an exquisitely beautiful variety
with large scarlet flowers of the most splendid form, and beautifully
feathered with white, and an unnamed Solralia, with rosy lilac
flowers of a colossal size ; and Mr. C. Turner, Auricula, Headly's
Alderman Wisbey, a grey-edged variety, with smooth and circular
flowers, having a rich brownish maroon ground. The whole of the
above were awarded first-class certificates.

The second exhibition of the Society was held in a large tent at
the southern part of the garden, and it was certainly a most agree-
able relief to get away from the arcades and conservatory, in which
the exhibitions have during the last few years been held. The chief
features were the show and fancy Pelargoniums and Cape Heaths.
Miscellaneous groups of stove and greenhouse flowering and orna-
mental-leaved plants were staged, but owing to plants in twelve-inch
pots only being allowed to be shown, the effect produced was tame and
ineffective. The Pelargoniums shown by Mr. Ward, gardener to F. Gr.
Wilkins, Esq., Leyton ; Mr. James ; Mr. Weir, Hampstead ; and
Messrs. Dobson and Sou, were really magnificent, the plants being
large in size, well flowered, and exceedingly fresh. The best of the
varieties were Conqueror, Patroness, Lilacina, Alabama, Rose Celes-
tial, Pericles, Exhibitor, Beacon, Fair Rosamond, Maid of Honour,
and Fob Foy, all of which are exceedingly good, and can be obtained
at ordinary prices.

The best Cape Heaths were those exhibited by Mr. Ward,
Messrs. Jackson and Son, Kingston and Son, and Mr. Carr, gardener
to P. L. Hinds, Esq., Byfleet Lodge. As a guide to intending pur-
chasers it is worthy of mention that the most distinct and desirable

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 187

sorts in the several collections were Elegans, Cavendishi, Depressa,
Multiflora, Florida, Perspicua nana, Ventricosa, Coccinea Minor,
Ventricosa grandiflora, Victoria, Mntabilis, Mirabilis, and Tricolo'r
Wilsoni.

The principal exhibitors of flowering stove and greenhouse plants
were Messrs. Jackson and Son, Mr. Ward, and Mr. Carr ; and of
ornamental-leaved plants — Mr. Bull, Mr. "Williams, aud Messrs.
Bell and Thorpe, Stratford-on-Avon. Mr. Bull's collection consisted
chiefly of Palms, and in the collection from Mr. Williams occurred
fine specimens of Sarracenia JDrummondi and purpurea.

In the miscellaneous class Messrs. Bell and Thorpe exhibited
samples of their new plant and tree labels, which there can be no
doubt will be extensively employed for all out-door purposes when
generally known. They are made of a hard white metal, which, it is
said, does not become discoloured for an indefinite number of years,
and as the names of the plants are cast in bold relief it is impossible
for them to become obliterated. They are manufactured in two
shapes, one for suspending and the other for fixing into the ground,
and each form is made in different sizes. For naming rose and fruit
trees the former shape will be most valuable, and the price is suffi-
ciently low to place them within the reach of the most humble
amateur. Messrs. Dick Eadclyfte and Co., exhibited a ta-tefully
constructed fern stand and aquarium combined ; and in the collection
of plants from Messrs. E. Gk Henderson and Son, St. John's Wood,
occurred several specimens of the lovely Tlialictrum adiantifolia,
which will be almost as valuable for bouquets and vases as the
well-known Maidenhair fern, to which it bears a close resemblance.
It is moreover quite hardy and the leaves retain their freshness for a
considerable length of time after they have been gathered.

Amongst the new plants exhibited were Cattleya Reineckiana,
white with large lip, beautifully painted with crimson and gold, from
Mr. Denning, gardener to Lord Londesborough, Tadcaster ; Masde-
vallia Lindeni, with rosy puce flowers, a fine companion to M. Veitchi,
M. coccinea, and others of this family, from M. Linden, of Brussels ;
Gollinsia violacea, a lovely Californian annual, with blue and white
flowers, from Mr. Thompson, Ipswich ; Petunia Princess Louise, a
magnificent double variety, with rosy purple flowers, margined and
blotched with white, from Mr. Badmau, Lee Green ; Mauve Queen,
Intermediate stock, distinct and good, from Mr. Gr. Smith, Hornsey
Road ; Eose Paul Neron, a grand hybrid perpetual, with large
globular flowers, silver zonal Pelargoniums Mrs. Rousbi/ and Baroness
JBwrdett Goutts, and Azalea Gomtesse de Flandres, from Mr. C.
Turner; and Adiantum asa/rifoliwm, a bold and distinct species in
the way of a reniforme, but much larger in every way, from Mr.
Williams. All the above were awarded first-class certificates.

The only new fruit, possessing any considerable merit, exhibited
during the month, was the Iloyal Ascot Frontignan grape, shown at
the last exhibition at Kensington, by Messrs. Standish and Co.,
Eoyal Nursery, Ascot. The berries are of medium size, and as the
fruit approaches maturity they change to a pale amber. The flavour
is most delicious and of its earliness there can be no doubt for

188 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Black Hamburgks grown in the same house were quite green at the
time of the fruit reaching maturity. It will, therefore, in all pro-
bability, be a valuable grape for greenhouse and ground vineries,
and was awarded a first-class certificate by the fruit committee.

G. G.

NOTES ON NEW BOOKS.

The Orchid Grower's Manual. By B. S. Williams, Victoria
Nursery, Upper Holloway. — Has reached a fourth edition, and is
greatly improved in the text and freely illustrated. The pictures,
however, are of no account, and the book would be as good without
them. There is no better work on the subject of orchid cultivation ;
the author is one of the best experienced men in the country, and
gives the whole advantage of his knowledge to the reader in a com-
prehensive and explicit code of instruction.

Wax-flower Modelling Made Easy. By Annie M. Williams. —
Supplies a much felt want in an admirable manner. We have seen
Miss Williams's work and have looked into her little book, and
feel equal confidence and pleasure in recommending those who are
interested in the subject to trust her for their guide.

Handbook of Hardy Herbaceous and Alpine Plants. By William
Sutherland (Blackwood and Sons). — This is the best book of its
class hitherto produced. It is full of useful information on an
interesting, valuable, but much neglected class of plants, by a man
who thoroughly understands them. The author superintended the
herbaceous department of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, for
several years, and made good use of his opportunities to institute
comparisons of species and determine many of the perplexing
questions that arise in connection with the study of hardy plants.
About a thousand species and varieties are described in the work,
and any one of them may be readily found by the aid of the copious
index.

Secular Annotations on Scripture Texts. By Eeancis Jacox
(Hodder and Stoughton). — A quiet book of essays on subjects
presented in selected texts of Scripture. Rich in thought, elegant
in expression, sometimes quaint and witty, but always sedate ; these
essays will be found agreeable reading on wet Sundays and at odd
times when something short and fresh is wanted.

Land for the Million to Sent. By the Rev. H. Moule
(Macintosh). — This is a small pamphlet addressed chiefly to cot-
tagers and allotment holders, but of equal importance to landowners
as to them. The author hopes for the day when it shall be illegal
to build a house for a working-man without so much land being
attached as will suffice to grow for the family all that can reasonably
be expected from a working-man's garden. We share the hope, and
would most gladly assist if it were possible, to secure to working
men opportunity for the delightful pastime of gardening, both for
the direct benefits it would confer on them and their families, and
its indirect benefit as an antidote to the injurious fascinations of the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 189

public-house. Mr. Moule, the author of this admirable essay, is the
iuveutor of the Earth Closet, and one of the most active of philan-
thropists. "Would that we could find a hundred thousand parsons
of the like spirit, and with equal perseverance and unselfishness in
labours expressive of the true purport of Christianity.

The Food, Use, and Beauty of British Birds. By Groom Napieb
(Groombridge and Sons). — Mr. Napier's book is a counterblast to
gun, traps, and poison, for its object is to show that our song-birds
are amongst our best friends, and to kill them is to open the door to
ten thousand insect pests, who will surely rush in if we lose our
bird protectors, and devour all our garden produce. People who
are in earnest about the preservation of birds, should buy dozens,
scores, and hundreds of this work, and distribute them gratuitously.
Mr. Napier tells all the truth, and that is no small merit of a
book written for a purpose.

NEW PLANTS.

ELOPERONE CILIATA {Hot. Mag., t. 5888).— A pretty acanthaceous
stove plant, flowering in winter. It is of sub-shrubby habit, one to
two feet high. The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, dark green ; the flowers
axillary and terminal ; the corolla violet, with a white palate. If
judged by the figure, a good companion plant to Justicia speciosa for
winter flowers.

Xiphion junceum {Bot. Mag., t. 5890). — A pretty Algerian iris, with orange-
coloured flowers. The genus Xiphion differs from Iris in having coated bulbs,
whereas Iris has creeping root-stocks, according to the terms of Mr. Baker's mono-
graph. This plant is a native of dry hills near .Algiers, also of Tangier in Morocco,
and of Genoa and Sicily. It is a valuable hardy plant, neat in growth, and ex-
ceedingly showy when in flower.

Tillandsia (Pityrophyi.ltjm) ionantha {Bot. Mag., t. 5892). — A charming
little Bromeliaceous plant, with green leaves tipped with rose-colour, and rosy-purple
flowers. Dr. Hooker suggests that it is likely to prove distinct from Planchon's
T. ionantha, in which case he suggests that it should be named T. scopas, "in
allusion to its brush-like habit."

Pelargonium Pink. Queen {Floral Mag., t. 523). — This splendid nosegay
pelargonium is quite a novelty, and promises to be one of the most popular varieties
of its class for many seasons to come. In habit it is all that could be desired,
robust yet neat in growth, with very dark circular leaves, and producing its large
trusses of flowers most abundantly. Its great charm is the colour of the flowers, a
rich deep carmine-pink, differing in tone from all other pink varieties, and far
exceeding the darkest pinks we have in brilliancy and freedom of flowering. This
splendid novelty will be sent out by Messrs. Dowuie, Laird, and Laing.

Saxifraga (aizoonia) longiflora {Bot. Mag-, t. 5889). — A beautiful hardy
plant in the way of S. pyramidalis. Dr. Hooker describes it as " a very striking
species, commonly cultivated on the Continent, but very rarely in England, where,
however, it succeeds admirably in the open air, or in a partially-shaded rock-work,
forming brilliant green rosettes of leaves four to six inches in diameter, and sending
up at Midsummer a truly glorious pyramidal nodding thyrsus, a foot high, of white
flowers that lasts for several weeks. It is a native of the higher valleys of the
Pyrenees, at the Baths of the Luchon, and elsewhere, at elevations of 2000 to 7000
feet above the sea."

Massonia (astemma) odorata {Bot. Mag., t. 5891). — A sweet-scented little
Cape bulb with white flowers. It was sent in 1866 to the Royal Gardens by D.
Arnot, Esq., who resides in the remote district of Colesberg, under the 32nd parallel
of N. latitude, bordering the Griqua territory and Orange Free States, whence he

190 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

has transmitted many rare and curious plants to Kew. It flowered in a cool house
in October of last year.

Agave ixtlioides {Bot. Mag., t, 5893). — A fine rigid-leaved agave, producing
a tall scape of candelabra-like yellow flowers. The species before us is one that
has long been in cultivation at Kew, but never flowered till January of the present
year, when it threw up a scape twelve feet high.

Costus Malortieanus {Bot. Mag., t. 5894). — A remarkably handsome stove
plant from Costa Rica. It has obovate leaves eight to twelve inches long, and
tubular flowers of a pale yellow, striped with red.

Gilia lixiflora {Bot. Mag., t. 5S95). — A beautiful hardy annual resembling
a white-flowered flax.

Nothoscobdum aureihi {Bot. Mag., t. 5896). — A pretty liliaceous plant from
California. It has a small bulb like that of a snowdrop, and an elegant scape of
yellow flowers in the fashion of an allium.

Begonia ckinita [Bot. Mag., t. 5897). — An extremely elegant plant, with red
stems and delicate pale pink or deep rose-coloured flowers. This is one of a series
of beautiful begonias introduced from South America by Messrs. Veitch and Sons,
through their energetic collector, the late Mr. Pearce.

Caladium Mons. Barillet {Floral Mag., t. 528). — A splendid Continental
variety, which will be sent out by Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing. " The
groundwork of the leaf is green, the midrib and veins brilliant crimson, a large
irregular blotch of the same colour occupying the centre of the leaf, and between
it and the green a margin of cream-colour gradually shades off into the deep rich
ground-colour of the leaf."

Amaryllis Rayneri {Bot. Mag., t. 5SS3). — A stately plant, producing large pale
purple flowers. In common with many other plants of this fine family, Amaryllis
Rayneri is a native of Brazil. The bulbs were introduced by Dr. Rayner, of Ux-
bridge, who flowered it in November last, and thereby secured the claim to be com-
memorated in its specific name. The plant has bold falcate leaves, and the scape
bears three flowers of great size and peculiar beauty, the prevailing colours of which
are palest purple or mauve-rose and greenish amber.

Cvrtanthera chrysostephana {Bot. Mag., t. 5887). — A grand tropical shrub
with fine heads of yellow acanthaceous flowers and handsome ovate leaves of a rich
dark green, the midribs of which are of a vivid red colour. This species is less
showy than C. catalpcefolia or C. aurantiaca, but is more elegant in habit than
either, and conspicuous for the vivid red colour of the midrib and nerves of the leaf
beneath. The flowers, instead of being disposed in a dense thyrsus, or axillary
cymes, as in most species of the genus, are collected into a crown-like corymb at the
tips of the branches, and are of a bright golden yellow.

Oncidium tigrinxjm, var. splendidum {Bot. Mag., t. 5978).— A fine variety, and
perhaps the grandest oncid hitherto discovered. It is a native of the Irapseen
mountains, near Valladolid and Paracho, and of Mechoacan, both in Mexico, and,
according to Van Houtte of Guatemala. It flowered in the splendid collection of
Lord Londesborough in February, 1870, and bore twenty flowers on a branched
raceme, supported by a peduncle two feet long.

Paulinnia thalictrifolia {Bot. Mag., t. 5879). — A woody tropical climber
with fern-like leafage. " It is seldom," says Dr. Hooker, " that a woody tropical
climber of the natural family to which the subject of the present plate belongs
(Sapindacrea) affords a subject of much horticultural interest ; and this owes its
exceptional character to the beautiful feathery foliage which, accompanied by its
scandent habit, gives it, when in a young state, the habit and appearance of a
climbing Bavallia, or allied fern."

Statice spicata (Gard. Mag., p. 93, 1871). — This is said to be a charming
Caucasian species, of annual duration, flowering early in the season, and con-
tinuing in bloom for a very long time. The leaves are prettily semi-pinnatifid,
of a lively emerald green, and form a spreading tuft out of which rise a multitude
of cylindrical earlike spikes, partly undivided, or more or less branched in a pyra-
midally-arranged fashion, closely set with flowers of a rosy-pink hue. The whole
plant represents a graceful sub-pyramidal bouquet about one foot in height, of ex-
ceedingly handsome shape, likely to be useful for small beds or for edgings, as it
succeeds in ordinary garden soil.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 191

NOTICES TO CO-RESPONDENTS.

Peak for a South Aspect. — J. ~E. S., Dalston. — Beurre Bosc is a fine pear
but Marie Louise, or Jargonelle are perhaps more productive, and they attain
maturity at an earlier date.

Rose Grubs. — A. M. C. is informed that hand picking is the only practical
remedy for the destruction of the grubs which are attacking the rose trees.

Night Scented Stock.— J". 11. , Devonport. — You ought to experience no diffi-
culty in obtaining seed of this plant. We find that it is entered in the catalogues
of Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, Mr. B. S. Williams, Upper Holloway, and in
those of several others of the leading houses.

Books. — A. Subscriber. — Thompson's "Book of Annuals," and "Profitable
Gardening " will afford you tbe desired information. There is no book published
containing the whole of the information sought for.

Double-flowering Peaches. — A. D. P. — Your letter came too late to insure
a reply last month. The trees should be placed in a sunny position in the open air
during the summer months, and supplied liberally with water. Specimens started
early should not be placed in the open air before the end of April. If the foliage is
attacked with aphis of any kind, syringe them overhead and dust with tobacco
powder, and after it has been on twelve hours wash it off again. Centaureas
should be planted at the same time as calceolarias and other of the hardiest bedders.

Calceolarias Dying Off. — A. S. — Probably you use too large a proportion of
manure, and also water the plants too liberally. We believe the cause of the plants
perishing may be safely attributed to one of these extremes.

A. D. — Pot them when at rest, and keep in the temperature of an ordinary
greenhouse.

Mrs. H. — The fern is not new ; and it is a very common occurrence to raise
ferns from seed. Indeed that is the U3ual mode of propagating the majority of
species.

Covering a Porch {B. B. £.) — The quickest, safest, and cheapest covering
would be Virginian creeper. A little less quick would be sempervirens roses very
beautiful, fast-growing and abundant bloomers, one only to each pillar. These
would require plenty of water, and the ground heavily manured before planting as
the chalky substratum will try them. Less quick than the last, but in such a hot
place very suitable, Ceanothus papilosus, which would requite some good turf
chopped over with rotten cow-dung. Hedera grandifolia, a grand ivy with hu"e
leaves, would run up quick, and be rich and shady. Clematises would rejoice in
that hot, dry, chalky bottom, and go to the top of the pillars at a rapid pace. Be
content with only one kind of plant, have no mixtures. You are in time now to
plant any of them from pots.

Tree Ferns, etc. — G. M. — The newly- imported tree ferns, recently purchased
should be put in an upright position in some cool, close, rather dark place, such as a
shed, or under the stage of a greenhouse, and syringe them once a day for a week.
The next week syringe them two or three times a day, and protect them against
draughts of air, so as to keep them constantly damp. In about three weeks they
will begin to show signs of growth ; and may then be potted. In preparing them
for pots, cut clean away all hard, dead, wiry roots, so as to reduce their stumps
considerably. It is seldom, however, that there are any roots left to cut away ; tiny
are so closely trimmed before being packed for transit. The best soil is one con-
sisting wholly of tough fibrous peat, with plenty of sharp sand. When the crocks
are placed, lay over them some rough charcoal, then pot the trees in the usual way
and fill the stuff in as firmly as possible. Put them in as small pots as possible • it
is easy work to shift them on as they grow, and it is a great help if the roots soon
touch the sides of the pots after they begin to grow. Do not make the soil wet at
all until the growth has advanced somewhat ; to keep it regularly damp will
suffice, but continue to syringe the stems frequently, as the moisture absorbed
that way will soonest arouse the energies of the plants.

Vines and LiauiD Manure. — H. N. — It is quite possible that the liquid
manure had something to do with the death of the vines, but it is impossible for us
to say whether or not their death has been caused by its being usad too liberally.
Two year old vines do not require liquid manure.

192 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

G. J. W. — Pour the water upon fresh lime, and when the lime has settled, and
the water has become perfectly pure, it will be ready for use. A bushel of lime to
a hogshead of water would be a good proportion.

Preservation of French Beans. — French beans, when properly preserved, are
so valuable for use during; the winter months, that we gladly insert the following
contribution upon the subject from an esteemed correspondent. Our correspondent
says : — " The preservation of French beans is a very simple matter. Take an
earthenware pipkin, with upright sides, of the capacity required ; about four gallons
will be enough for a small family of four ; put a layer of salt at the bottom,
then one of beans, and so on, in alternate layers, to the top cover, with a layer
of salt, and the thing is done. Before cooking, sufficient beans for a dish must
be taken out and soaked for several hours in cold water, to get rid of the salt.
The beans, of course, must be picked in dry weather." — Experientia.

Names of Ferns. — Prestivich. — No. 1, Asplenium adiantum nigrum ; 2.
Blechnttm spicant ; 3. Scolopendrium vulgare. The Petunia is wrong at the root ;
probably the drainage of the pot is choked up, and the soil has become sour in
consequence.

A. B. S. — "We have had no experience with the preparation referred to, and are
therefore unable to afford you any information respecting its value.

Clat Soil. — J. T. B. — The admixture of a liberal proportion of road scrapings
or other light sandy material will be the most suitable manner of dealing with the
stubborn clay in the position referred to.

Ficcs elasticus Propagation. — J. T. B. — Ficus elasticus is by no means
difficult to propagate, and the present moment is very suitable, for the work. Cut
the well-matured portion of the stem into lengths of two inches each, with a pair of
leaves to each, then split the stem down the centre, and lay the pieces on the green-
house shelf for a few hours. Insert them singly in pots filled with light sandy
soil ; bury the portion of the stem about an inch below the surface, and secure the
leaf to a short stake to prevent its becoming loose. The cutting pots should be
placed in a warm corner of the greenhouse, unless you have the convenience of a
cucumber or melon frame ; the frame is preferable, but they will strike in an ordi-
nary greenhouse at this season of the year. Although Ficus elasticus is valuable
for the decoration of indoor apartments and conservatories during the summer
season, it requires a temperature rather higher than that of the ordinary greenhouse
during the winter to keep it in good health. In wintering it in the greenhouse, it
is essential to keep the plants rather dry at the roots.

A. D. — Kilburn. — The plants must have full exposure to the sun throughout
the year, for, when placed in a shady situation, the leaves soon lose the brilliancy of
the leaf-tints.

Club in Cabbages and Borecoles. — G. Smith. — Whatever enriches, refreshes,
and renews the soil will tend to abolish club. Deep digging and plenty of manure
will do more to eradicate club ihan all the nostrums ever heard of — in fact, nostrums
are not of much avail, because clubbing begins in the seed-bed. We advise you to
sprinkle lime over the young plants as soon as they appear in the seed-bed, to
practise deep digging, and, when planting out, dip the roots in a puddle of clay,
lime, and soot.

Pruning Acacias.— IF". G. — Acacias are usually pruned after flowering; in
some cases, the growth that follows pruning is pinched back once or twice to increase
the bushiness of the plants, care being taken to promote a thorough ripening of the
wood to insure a good bloom again. The bloom never need be lost, except in the
case of cutting down old plants to stumps, in which case one season's bloom must
at least be lost.

Gourds. — S. S. writes to say that he is anxious to preserve pure seed of certain
races of gourds, but he fears that his this year will he a mixed lot, and that in
his plantation are several hybrids, the result of crossing last year, which he regards
as rogues, and is anxious to preserve the seed pure for next season. He must
remove all male flower -buds before they open ; the females may be left to swell their
fruit, as they will be fertilized by the males of the typical kinds. The fruits on the
rogue plants may be used young as marrows, or, when ripe, for any of the purposes
to which ripe gourds are put, but the seeds taken from them must be destroyed. To
sum up the advice in few words— nip the male buds from the rogues, and eat all the
fruits the rogues produce.

If 4^ r

VARIETIES OF PRIMULA C 0 R T U S 0 I D E S.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 193

VAEIETIES OF PEIMULA COETUSOIDES.

{Illustrated with a Coloured Plate.)

»HE two beautiful primulas represented in the accompany-
ing plate are the most attractive of a very interesting
group. The type of the group, P. cortusoides, is an old
favourite in the few gardens wherein hardy herbaceous
plants are properly cared for ; but the varieties to which
we now more particularly direct attention are of quite recent intro-
duction, and are as yet comparatively little known. As we intend
this notice to be both brief and useful, we will say as little as possible
in the way of criticism, and as much as possible, though in the fewest
possible words, on the merits of the plants and the best known
methods of cultivating them. The imaginative reader wdl kindly
invent for himself or herself all else that might be said on so attrac-
tive a theme.

Eirst — Of the typical plant Primula cortusoides. It forms a tuft
consisting of heart-shaped bluntty-toothed leaves of a bright green
colour, agreeably adorned with compact umbels of purplish rose-
coloured flowers in the months of May and June. It is always a neat
plant ; when in flower it is extremely pretty, and should one meet
with the rare sight of a few very large clumps of it, the grandeur of
the plant will not be soon forgotten.

If planted in the common border and left to take care of itself,
this plant is likely enough to die ; and yet, in some places, to plant
it anywhere and leave it alone would be the most satisfactory mode
of cultivating it. We have for many years enjoyed its abundant
dowering on a ledge of a rockery facing the north ; the soil deep and
gritty, and thoroughly well drained. From April to August the
tufts — indeed the whole of this part of the rockery — is heavily watered
once a week. This system suits a large proportion of the best Alpines
in cultivation. The north aspect is peculiarly well adapted for its
requirements, for, as a native of Siberia, exposure to the full sun
would debilitate the constitution of the plant ; in fact, the main
difficulty about growing Arctic and Alpine plants is that our climate
is too warm for them, and they perish through growing too fast.

The varieties that are here figured represent a group of plants
of more robust habit than the type, and producing flowers far more
showy both in size and colour. The finest of the series introduced
was P. c. amcena, a native of Japan, which Messrs. Veitch and Son
obtained for our gardens in the year 1864. From the same enter-
prising firm there have been sent out several other varieties, all of
which in their leading characteristics cluster round P. c. amcena, so
that we must regard that variety, and not the species, as the proper
type of them. They are all fine plants, thoroughly hardy, yet but
rarely prospering in the common open border. _The best of all places
for them is the frame : they are, indeed, the finest frame plants we
possess ; for neglect will rarely kill them, and proper care will bring
VOL. v;-Mi. tit. 13

194 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

them to a condition of extraordinary beauty. To grow them well,
the soil should he a rich, sandy loam, the pots well drained, the
plants at all times preserved from any approach to drought, and
during summer to have abundance of water. The whole stock should
be re-potted annually, no matter how well the plants are doing ; the
proper time for this operation is the month of July, when they are
comparatively at rest. The following list includes all the varieties
known : —

Amcena. — A robust-habited plant, (lowering freely. Flowers rich
rosy carmine ; one of the. finest of the group. The flowers in the
lower half of the plate very fairly represent this handsome variety.

Intermedia. — This is well named for those who know the specific
form. The flowers are most abundantly produced, the colour lilac
carmine. A very desirable plant.

Alia. — A fine plant, with large, handsome, pure white flowers,
which droop as if blown aside by the wind* The brilliant green, of
its leaves, and the snowy purity of its flowers, constitute this a
striking plant, notwithstanding the drooping of its flowers.

Striata virida. — A pretty starry flower, white, with obscure green
stripe. A good companion plant to Intermedia. It will indicate
the exact relations of this variety, and also exemplify the elegancies
of botanical nomenclature, if we add that its proper (or say legal)
name is Primula coriusoides v. ameeim s. v. alba s. s. v. striata viridis.

]N\B. — A rose by any other name would smell as sweet ; and if
this primula bore a shorter name it would be none the less pretty.
Comfort from Horatius—

". . . . Levins fit patientiS

Quicquid corrigera est neias."

Grandiflora is apocryphal. When a plant of Amcena is extra well
grown it becomes " Grandiflora," and vice versa, if Grandiflora is only
middling well grown, it becomes "Amcena." To put the case in plain
English, Grandiflora is a nursery name for a nonentity.

Oculata is only a good state of Amcena, showing a distinct white
eye. To repeat the solemn truth just uttered, Oculata is a nursery
name for a nonentity.

liilacina is an exquisitely beautiful plant, as the topmost figure
in our plate will indicate. The flowers are large, quite flat, the
edges fringed or lacerated, the colour palest blush, overlaid with
delicate vein3 of lilac and palest purplish rose. This and Amcena,
which is shown in the lower part of the plate, are the best of the
group, but the others we have recommended are quite needful to any
cultivator who can find amusement in the cultivation of first-class
frame and Alpine plants.

Of the charming P. Japonica and P. VerticiUaia we must seek an
early opportunity to discourse, perhaps with the aid of our artist,
who tries hard aud with honourable zeal to "paint like nature."

S.H.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 195

SUMMER WORK IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

EY GEOEGE GEAY,
Head Gardener, Norbitou Hall, Kingston-on-Tliames.

N order to secure a good supply of vegetables during the
late autumn, winter, and early spring months, the great-
;*|| est amount of activity is necessary during July, and the
planting of broccoli, borecole, and, indeed, winter greens
JSS*ga^ of all kinds, must be completed during that month,
because it is impossible for crops planted later in the season to attain
their full development by the time the weather becomes cold enough
to put a stop to the growth. Seed of many useful vegetables may
still be sown with the greatest degree of success, but there is no
time to lose. When the ground is occupied with the remnants of peas
and other crops the plots should be cleared at once, and manured
and dug up deeply, because it is folly to risk important crops for
the sake of the chajice of one or two dishes. The stumps of early
cabbages should also be cleared, for the few dishes of greens that
will be obtained from them will certainly not pay for the space
occupied. Instead of allowing them to remain until the winter, as is
so frequently done, it will be far more profitable to destroy them,
and, after the ground has been turned up, to sow with turnips, or
plant with some other crops, and form a small plantation of cab-
bages elsewhere.

Liberal manuring and deep digging are both important matters
in the kitchen garden, and must be regulated by the circumstances
in which each cultivator is placed. Every part of the kitchen gar-
den should, if possible, be trenched to the depth of two feet during
the winter season, every second year at least, and it should be dug
over after every crop. The ground should also be mauured once a
year, and there can be no doubt that good stable or farm-yard
manure, when about half rotten, is the best that can be employed.
Amongst the artificial manures phospbo-guano is the most desirable,
because its fertilizing properties are of the highest order, and, unlike
the samples of ordinary guano, do not vary much in quality. Guano
would be one of the most valuable assistants the amateur could pos-
sibly have were it not for the fact that such an enormous price is
charged for it when purchased in smaller quantities than one cvvt. ;
and in buying it by the hundredweight a rate of nearly double the
price per ton is charged, and guano exceeding £20 per ton cannot
be employed in the kitchen garden with profit. In applying guano,
when the seed is sown in drills, it should be sprinkled along the
drills, and then covered very lightly with fine soil previous to sowing
the seed. But in all other cases it should be sown broadcast over the
surface before the seed is sown or the plants put cut, as the case
may be. The rate at which it should be used in the kitchen garden
is from three to four cwt. per acre ; and before quieting this part of
the subject, it is desirable to add that the assistance it will be to

196 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

the crop following "will be nearly, and in some cases even quite equal
to the influence it will have upon the crops sown or planted imme-
diately after its application. Having proceeded thus far, as it will
enable what follows to be better understood, each class of vegetables
will be grouped together in separate paragraphs.

French Beans. — It is too late to sow the tall varieties now, but
several of the dwarf kinds may be sown, if required, with the moat
desirable results. If a liberal sowing was not made towards the end
of last month to succeed the earliest crops, a considerable breadth
should be sown in a sunuy border without delay. If the soil is dry,
fill the drills with water, then plant and cover up quickly ; for when
the seed is sown in dry soil it will most probably lay dormant in the
ground for a considerable period, and the plants may not attain a
fruiting size before the frost cuts them oft*. The advancing crops
should also be well looked after; those in bearing must have the
pods removed immediately they are large enough for the table, and
if it is desirable to save seed, set apart an end of a long row, or a
whole row if short, for that purpose, because nothing interferes so
much with the productiveness ot both the dwarf and tall sorts as the
common practice of leaving a few pods on each plant until they
attain maturity. "Where the conveniences exist the supply may be
kept up a fortnight or three weeks later than usual, by sowing a row
at the foot of a south wall and protecting it in cold and frosty wea-
ther with spare lights. The Negro Long-podded is undoubtedly the
best for all purposes out of doors.

Broccoli, Borecole, and Kale. — Under this heading we must
include Brussels sprouts, which require exactly the same manage-
ment as Scotch and other kales. The broccoli crop is so often either
wholly or partially destroyed by the severe winters that the kale
should be considered of the first importance in gardens of all classes,
and almost exclusively grown in gardens of a limited extent. Indeed,,
in small gardens, the broccolis that are usually fit for the table be-
fore Christmas should alone be planted ; and as we seldom have very
severe weather before the middle of December, there is not so much
risk attached to their cultivation. And by lifting and storing them
in a dry structure, where they will be secure from frost, the supply
may be prolonged for a considerable period after Christmas. The
most desirable of the early kinds for forming a succession are Early
White Cape and Granges Cauliflower; and for those who are not
particular about the colour the Early Txirple Cape can be highly
recommended. But to have them ready for the table before the
severe weather occurs the plants must be put out early in a favour-
able position.

The three best kales for gardens of all kinds are the Dwarf Green
Curled Scotch, the Cottager's, and the Jerusalem, all of which are
comparatively hardy, productive, and of delicate flavour, and the
former should be grown in the same proportion as the other two
combined. In small gardens the two fin:t mentioned will be quite
sufficient. The most delicate-flavoured of all the kales is the one
known as CJiou de Milan; but it is rather tender, and its cultivation
is attended with a considerable degree of risk. The Albert Sprouts

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 197

are hardy, productive, and delicate in flavour, and a fair proportion
should be planted. Brussels Sprouts are too well known to need
comment, and must be planted according to the space at disposal and
the requirements of the kitchen.

The cultivation of winter greens of all kinds is comprised in a
deep, rich soil, and early planting ; therefore they should be put out
as fast as the quarters occupied, with early crops can be cleared for
them. Where a portion of the stock of any of the kinds has to be
planted between potatoes, the strongest plants should be selected
for that purpose, because the small plants stand a chance of being
smothered by the haulm of the potatoes.

Cabbage, although one of the most profitable crops that can be
grown in a small garden, is not usually looked upon with much
favour. The varieties in commerce are now very numerous, but for
general crops Wheeler's Imperial and Enfield Market are decidedly
the best. Although they occupy more space than compact-growing
kinds, good breadths of either of these sorts put out at once will
prevent the possibility of there being any scarcity of green stuff
during the autumn. Both should be planted eighteen inches apart,
in rows two feet from each other. The most desirable of the small,
compact growers, are Athins's Matchless and Mill's Incomparable,
and they should be put out twelve inches apart, in rows eighteen
inches from each other, which will afford them plenty of room,
because they should be cut and sent to table before hard white
hearts are formed.

If the sowing of cabbage seed was neglected at the proper time,
and a difficulty exists in obtaining plants of a good sort, a consider-
able breadth of the Early London Colewort should be sown at the
first opportunity possible, and a second sowing made either in the
last week of July or the first week of August. Plant out immediately
they are strong enough at a distance of twelve inches apart each
way, for they take up very little space when full grown. Coleworts
are so useful for planting after potatoes and other crops that come
off the ground during July and August, that a moderate qua-ntity
should be planted even where a good breadth of cabbage is already
put out.

Cauliflowers. — Strong plants of either the Earhj London or
JSTew Erfurt Dwarf Mammoth, put out in good soil, and watered
every alternate evening until they are established, will produce fine
heads in the autumn, and may be taken up and preserved for a con-
siderable period in a frame or other structure where they can be
protected from frost and damp. Preserve the roots in taking them
up when full grown, and remove a few of the outside leaves ; because
it will be necessary in laying them in by their heels to pack them
rather close together, and if they are too much crowded the leaves
will decay, and if not removed, render the head unfit for use.

Cabbots. — A small sowing of Early Short Horn will be extremely
useful for furnishing a supply of tender carrots for drawing during
the autumn. A second sowing made about the middle of August
will yield a supply during the following spring, little, if at all inferior,
to those grown upon hotbeds under glass, without any of the trouble

198 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

or expense of that mode of culture. The last sowing should he made
in a dry position ; and if the garden is in a low situation, raise the
bed a few inches above the surface with the soil taken from the
paths ; and in very severe weather a layer of newly-gathered leaves
or long litter will prevent the frost penetrating the ground, and thus
enable the carrots to be taken up without the least difficulty in the
most severe weather.

Celery. — The planting of the main crop of celery must be com-
pleted as early in the month as possible. In taking it up, preserve
the roots ; and after it is planted, well water it in, and screen from
the sun during the first few days after it is put out. It can be easily
shaded by a few branches of evergreens over the trenches ; or, if
more convenient, mats or strips of canvas may be employed. Celery
will, of course, do without shade when newly planted ; but a light
shade as here recommended will be of immense assistance in enabling
the plants to become established quickly.

Ifor the assistance of those who have to purchase plants it is
desirable to add that Williams'g Mcubehless Reel and Incomparable
Dioarf'Whiic are excellent kinds.

Pakslet. — To ensure a supply of this useful herb throughout
the autumn and winter it will be necessary to sow in the first or
second week in August. If, however, no seed has been sown since
March or April, a moderate quantity should be sown in the first
or second week in July. Fill the trench with water previous to
sowing the seed, and thin out liberally before the plants attain a
large size.

Spinach. — "Where this vegetable is in request a breadth must be
sown once a fortnight, because at this season of the year it so scon
runs to seed. It is a good plan in gathering spinach, when young,
to thin the plants and use the thinning?, instead of gathering the
largest leaves from the whole row. A rich soil is necessary to pro-
duce good crops at this season of the year.

Tuenips are extremely useful for following the early crops of
potatoes, peas, cauliflowers, and other vegetables ; but they are not
so profitable perhaps in very small gardens as many other things.
To obtain large, juicy bulbs, a quick growth is essential, and the
best means of securing that important condition is by sowing in
moderately-rich soil. Quarters from which potatoes have been taken
may be sown down without being dug over, as the drills can be made
in the centre of the space occupied by each row of potatoes ; but, of
course, it is preferable to turn it up. G-uano is one of the very best
manures for turnips, and a dressing at the rate specified above should
be applied, unless the ground was enriched with manure when
prepared for the previous crop. Immediately the young plants begin
to peep through the soil keep a sharp look out for " lly," and if any
of the plants are destroyed, dust at once with soot, applying it when
' the leaves are moist from the dew. Very frequently turnip crops are
totally destroyed by the "fly" taking the plants as fast as they
appear above ground ; and as no plants are seen, complaints are made
of the seed being bad, as it is thought that it has not germinated.
Soot acts as a fertiliser as well as an insecticide, therefore it may be

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 199

applied with advantage even, if no danger from the fly is appre-
hended. The Early White Stone or Siv-Week? is the quickest in
growth, and good in quality; the Early Snowball is also remarkably
good ; and for standing the winter, Chirk Castle Black Stone can be
highly recommended. The skin of the latter is black, but the flesh
is perfectly white, and of excellent flavour. The necessary thinning
should be done when the plants are small, for it not only occupies
less time, but it is better for the crop.

DAHLIAS.— No. III.

BY JOHN WALSH.

AHLIAS have not been forgotten, but up to the present
moment the cultivator has not been in want of advice
if he has paid due attention to the hints given in the
papers published in the Floral World for March and
April. Even now there is very little to be said, as it
is yet too early to deal with the preparation of the blooms for
exhibition. There are, however, a few points to which attention
may be profitably directed ; for upon proper attention to the wants
and requirements of the plants at the present moment depends the
success that will be met with at the exhibition.

The weather through June has been so cold that the plants in
all but the most favourable positions have not made much progress ;
but as we may reasonably expect some warm weather during the
ensuing month. Thinning and training the growth must be at once
thought about. The support for the main stem was recommended
to be put to the plants when they were planted, and if this advice
was acted upon, we have now only to consider the support of the
side branches. From three to five of the latter should be allowed to
each plant, and must be made secure from injury by the wind by
affixing a stout stake to each immediately they appear to need sup-
port. The stakes should be iuserted about twelve or fifteen inches
from the main stem in a slanting direction so as to give each branch
all the space possible ; and to make everything extra secure, connect
all the stakes together by strong pieces of string. The growth must
not be thinned too severely, but it will be necessary to remove a fevv"
of the most weakly shoots to prevent overcrowding, both on the
main stem and secondary branches ; and they should be cut off close
to the stem to prevent them breaking again and producing a lot of
useless spray. Sometimes, especially in hot and dry seasons like
those of 1867 and 1870, Dahlias have a tendency to bloom prema-
turely, and if not looked after and the flowers removed the growth
will experience a serious check. When they are grown merely for de-
coration, their flou-ering early is not of so much consequence.

The main object should be to secure a healthy growth, and the
removal of all the early flowers is one of the most essential condi-

200 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

lions for attaining that end. Farther on in the season it will be
necessary to remove all but the most promising flower-buds from
the lateral branches, to throw all the vigour into the one remain-
ing. The flowers that are disfigured in the slightest manner must
be removed as soon as the defects become apparent, to prevent the
energies of the plant being diverted from the support of the flowers
that promise to be of no service. But next month will be quite early
enough to dwell upon this point.

To ensure fine blooms it will be necessary to water rather copious-
ly once or twice a week during dry weather, and the plants will be
materially assisted if the water is flavoured with the drainings from
the stable or manure heaps, or if guano, at tbe rate of an ounce to
the gallon of water, is added to it before it is used. Very little
artificial watering will, however, be required where the soil is of a
moderately retentive character ; and so long as the plants grow
freely, artificial watering will not be required. Watering them over-
head is of considerable importance, and a large canfull of water poured
over them through a coarse rose on the evening of a hot day, will
materially assist in keeping the foliage clean and healthy, and thus
promote a vigorous growth. "Watering overhead will also aid in
keeping them free from red spider or thrips. The garden engine
is the proper thing for washing the foliage, but as so few amateurs
possess one, it will not be of much service to recommend it.

Trapping of earwigs should be commenced now ; a vast amount
of labour and anxiety will be avoided hereafter. The best method is
to employ small pots, each with a tuft of moss in it and mounted on
a stick above the plant.

If aphis appears, destroy them by dusting with tobacco powder.

GOLDEN, SILVER, AND BRONZE ZONALS.

ET EOBEKT OUBEIDGE,

Church Walk Nurseries, Stoke Kewingtou, N.

[HE best varieties of these important sections of the great
Geranium family are so valuable for the decoration of
the conservatory, sitting-room window, and balcony
garden during the summer and autumn months, that I
trust you will afford me a little space in the Eeobal
World to give a few hints on their management, and also that the
hints will be of assistance to many of its readers. The cultural
requirements of the varieties belonging to the three sections are so
similar that the directions here given will apply with equal force to
all, and one set of instructions will therefore be sufficent.

To produce large richly-coloured specimens of the Golden and
Silver Zonals in the least possible space of time, they must be grafted
on stocks of some of the strongest growing green-leaved varieties,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 201

or upon seedling plants of the same class. It is a very easy matter
to graft them ; indeed, it is easier to perform the operation than it is
to describe it. Por the stocks, select strong plants which have stout
and rather firm stems and are well established in the pots, because
to ensure successful results the plants must be growing freely and
the sap in active circulation. Cut the stock down to within a few
inches of the soil, split the top a little way down the centre, say an
inch and a half ; and after cutting the base of the graft into the shape
of a wedge, insert it in the cleft so that the two barks are, on one side
if not on both, neatly united. Then tie up rather tight with worsted
threads or bass, and cover the tying material with the clay, and over
the clay put a covering of moss to prevent its cracking. Place in a
warm corner of the greenhouse, and in a month or so, it will be
necessary to loosen the bandage ; but it must not be removed until
the graft is securely united to the stock. Standard specimens are
readily produced by grafting upou stocks of the desired height, in the
manner here advised.

The ordinary propagation of geraniums, by means of cuttings, is so
exceedingly simple, that it is only necessary to allude to it to enable
me to say that the cuttings should be struck in July, and not in
September, which is by many growers supposed to be the most suit-
able period for that work. Moderately firm and short jointed shoots
are the most suitable for making cuttings, which should average three
inches in length. Cut them close under a joint, and insert them in
a border on a south side of a wall, or in the open. Water mode-
rately when the cuttings are first put in, to settle the soil firmly about
them ; but afterwards, very little water will be required, unless the
weather is exceptionally dry, until they are rooted. It is a bad plan
to leave the cuttings until the roots have attained a considerable
length, because in taking them up the roots are liable to be injured,
and a considerable check is experienced in consequence. To state
the matter in the briefest manner possible, they should be taken up
and put in three-inch pots immediately they have a few roots of
about an inch in length. Use fibrous loam that has become mellow,
and to which a liberal quantity of silver sand and a moderate quan-
tity of leaf-mould have been added. Place them upon a bed of coal
ashes after they are potted, and towards the end of September
remove them tO'a shelf in the greenhouse where the light will have free
access to them, and where they will not be injured by being exposed
to an excess of atmospheric humidity during the winter months.

The following spring, if medium-sized plants only are required,
the young stock should have the points of the leading shoots piuched
out, and as soon as they begin to grow again be shifted into five or
six-inch pots. But to produce large specimens, stop them as above
advised ; keep near the glass in a cool airy house or frame, and at
the usual time plant them in an open border which has been prepared
hy the addition of a dressing of leaf-mould, thoroughly decayed
manure, and fresh loam if available. Put them at a distance of eigh-
teen inches apart one way and two feet the other, and if the space
can be spared, an additional six inches each way will be an advan-
tage. If everything goes on right, the young growth will require

202 THE FLGEAL WOELD AND GAEDEN GUIDE.

stopping early in August, and the plants will be in fine condition for
taking up and potting about the second week in September. At
this stage put tbem in five-inch pots, if they are not too large, and
then they can be conveniently shifted into eight-inch pots in the
following spring ; this size pot is mentioned because it is the most suit-
able for conservatory decoration, and the size in which they are usually
exhibited. At the end of the summer they will require pruning,
and if the season is not too far advanced, plant them out as soon aa
the young shoots, which make their appearance after the plants are
pruned, are grown half-an-inch in length. Take them up and re-pot
towards the end of September, in pots the same size as that recom-
mended for putting them in the autumn previous.

With respect to general management, it may be said that weak
liquid manure once a week will be beneficial when the pots are well
filled with roots, and that the plants must not be over-fed, either by
employing a large proportion of manure in the compost, or by the tise
of strong liquid manure. When over-fed, they grow too luxuriantly
and the leaf tints decrease in brilliancy, and the Bronze Zonals be-
come nearly as green as the ordinary Green-leaved Zonals. During
the growing season they require moderately liberal supplies of water ;
but from the end of October until the beginning of March, they must
be kept rather dry, and during that period no water should be
allowed to touch the leaves of the Golden and Silver Zonals ; and those
of the other sections should be kept as dry as possible. At all
seasons of the year they must be exposed to the full light, except
during very brilliant sunshine in June and July, and then the shad-
ing materials must be thin. You must also promote a free circulation
of air amongst them. Very little training will be required beyond
tying out the principal shoots regularly, and in bringing them
down in a horizontal manner to form theTouudation, excepting to stop
any shoot that grows more vigorously than the others. Plants intended
for exhibition should, after the end of April, be placed in a frame,
where they can be elevated, so as to be within a few inches of the
glass ; and in congenial weather the lights ought to be elevated both
at the back and front.

The finest eight varieties in each of the three classes are — Golden:
Achievement (Turner's), Ealing Rival, Edward Packard li-
Howarth Ash ton, Miss Goring, Mrs. Grieve, Macoelh (Bell and
Thorpe's), Prince of Wales. Silver: Clorinda, Eva Fish, Lass o"
Gowrie, Mrs. Col. Wilkinson, Mysterious Night, Mrs. Bousby, Princess
Beatrice (Paul's), and Felici/ii. Bnoxzs : Annie Keelcr, -
Douglas, Earl Bosshjn, Heine Victoria, Impcratrice Eugenic, Princess
of Wa&es (Downie and Co's), W.B. Morris, and Mrs. John Lee. As all
the above are expensive, we will make a second selection to comprise
the cheapest kinds.

There can be no hesitation in recommending the following as the
best in their respective classes, which can be purchased at prices not
exceeding five shillings each ; but most of them can be procured for
less than half-a-crown each. Golden : Countess of Craven, Edward
M-ilner, Humming Bird, Lady Cullum, Sophia Cusack, Plutarch,
Queen Victoria, Sir B. Napier, and Victoria Begincs. Silver : Ban-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 203

sJiee, Caroline Lonaficld, Mabel Morris, Miss Burdett Goutts, Mrs.
J. Glutton, Peri, Queen Victoria, find Excellent. Bronze: Harrison
Weir, Danae, Prima Donna, Red Sing, Countess of Keltic, Blade
Knight, Fairy Ring, and Napoleon III.

THE CULTIVATION OE THE EOSE.— No. VEX

|T is such an. easy matter to make rosesby the dozen, hundred,
thousand, million, that the one miraculous tact in the
history of the rose is of this negative sort — the scarcity of
roses. To be sure there are plenty of roses in the world,
BUeh as starving standards that make gardens hideous,
and those who own them open defamers to the taste they profess
to promote. We may find wall roses, and pillar roses, and bush roses
of the most obnoxious character everywhere, but few well-grown
roses ; few roseries containing anything like a variety of roses, and
few, very few, extremely few, glass houses devoted to the delicate
tea roses, which, if virtue were triumphant, would drive all the
geraniums and verbenas clean out of every plant-house in which,
with any prospect of success, a tea rose might be grown. One good
reason for bad rose growing is the prevalence of an extravagant belief
in standard roses. They are good enough indeed, when they are
good, but they are so often planted in the wrong place and managed
in the wrong way, that very many of the examples commonly met
with are types of extreme ugliness, and should impress us, if we
knew no more than they can teach, with the idea that the rose h the
very worst of all our garden flowers. To correct this foolish faith,
we must continually urge'the claims of own-root roses, and teach people
how to obtain or make them. As a majority of the trade repudiate
the notion of providing people with own-root roses, we feel bound to
say that Messrs. Lane and Sob, Berkhanrpotead Nurseries, long'since
took a hint, kindly offered to mankind by the Floral World, and'set
about producing millions of own-root roses. Those who want to buy
such, know henceforth where to go for them. But what are own-
root roses ? some will ask, and thereupon the whole question will
be opened about roses, and their roots in general.

There are many modes of multiplying roses ; but for all general
:;es, we need only notice three of them. The standard roses
commonly met with, are obtained by inserting buds of named roses
on the young shoots of English briers in the month of July. The
operation is called " budding," and constitutes an important mystery
of the rose craft. Bush roses are obtained by the budding process ■
but an Italian brier, known as the manetti rose, is employed for the
purpose. It is a free-growing, very free-rooting, bluish-leaved brier
not adapted to form standards, but well suited for bush roses if the
buds are inserted very low down, in fact immediately over the roots
of the briers, so that when they grow they will spring as it were
from the ground, instead of from the stems in which they are
inserted. Both bush and standard roses may be obtained on their

204 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

own roots by striking cuttings or buds, or making layers of
named roses, and tbe month of July is the best season in all the
year for these operations. Whether standards or bushes are required,
is of no consequence in the first instance, but a matter of after cul-
ture ; the important matter is the first step, and this consideration
brings us back to the point we had in mind at the first start — how to
make roses by the dozen, hundred, thousand, and million.

Brier roses are admirably adapted for deep loamy and heavy clay
soils. In any and every case the ground intended to be planted
with roses, should be well drained, and if the subsoil is anything
approximating to a clay or deep rich loam, brier roses may be planted
with a fair prospect of success. To make brier roses is a simple
matter enough, when you know how, but very mysterious short of
that point. In the " Rose Book " ample instructions are given for
the multiplication of roses in all possible ways ; but here we must
cut the matter short by saying that the art of budding may be learnt
in five minutes on the ground with the help of the demonstrations
and explanations of one who is somewhat expert in performing it,
but will be very slowly apprehended by the best written instructions,
however freely illustrated and " adapted to the meanest capacity."

Manetti roses are adapted for all soils and situations ; but have
an especial value for gravelly, chalky, and worn-out soils, because
of the abundance of roots the manetti brier produces, and its con-
sequent power of obtaining nourishment in comparatively barren
lands. When this stock is employed for dwarf roses, and it is not
suited for the production of standards, the stems should be budded
near the ground ; indeed a little of the earth should be removed to
enable the operator to insert the buds as low down as it is possible
to find a green lifting bark on which he can operate with a hope of
success.

Own-root roses are, generally speaking, the most valuable of all.
They are such as have roots of their own, that is to say they are not
obtained^ by budding or grafting, but by the striking of buds or
cuttings, or putting down layers ; in each case the rose making roots
for its own sustenance, instead of being made to depend on the roots
of briers, manettis, or any other stocks.

Any one who has had a little experience in the propagation of
bedding plants ought to find it easy and agreeable work to produce a
stock of own-root roses. Now is the time, and there are many modes
of procedure open to the choice of the proficient, who will have the
advantage of adopting that which the state of the wood at his disposal
and the conditions of the season and his own peculiar requirements
may suggest as the best. The simplest of all methods may be
described in a few words : —

There will be found on all the rose-trees now, or say in the mid-
dle of July, a number of plump, young, green shoots of the present
year. As the seasons vary, so will the time vary for taking cuttings ;
and the best rule that can be given is, that they should be taken
when about half ripe, the wood being still green but firm, for so long
as it is decidedly soft and sappy it is unfit. The selected shoots
should be cut up into lengths of about four inches each, and the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 205

lowest leaf should be removed, as shown by the figure in the " Rose
Book," page 251. The soft tops of shoots should either be cut off
and thrown away or should be carefully struck in the same way that
soft bedding plants are, in pans filled with sand, in a rather strong,
moist heat. But the cuttings we have especially in view, consisting
(say) of young wood as thick as a goose quill, in lengths of four
to six joints each, the lowest leaf only removed, will not require
heat, but will quickly make root if planted thickly in a bed of sandy
soil, or even in a bed of coeoanut-fibre, and kept close and moist,
without ever being very wet, or in a hot, stifling atmosphere.

To make own-root roses from buds is not quite so easy as to
make them from cuttings. But it is not difficult — at all events, we
have never found it difficult — to raise roses in this way and supply
the trade with them by the thousand. The first step is to obtain a
lot of precisely the same sort of buds as would be required for bud-
ding briers. The next thing is to prepare them in the same way,
without removing the wood or the leaves. The wood, indeed, may
be removed, but it is waste of time to remove it; but if the leaf is
removed the bud will simply die. Having secured buds cut in the
fashion of shields, without removing the wood, and, above all things,
without removing the leaf that each must have when cut, plant these
buds firmly in pans filled with sand, or on a bed of light loam covered
with sand over a mass of fermenting material, or in a common frame.
All the leaves must stand up and be kept fresh by frequent sprink-
ling, but there must be no slopping of water amongst the buds, or
they will rot ; in fact, any excess of moisture will ruin the best
planned project for propagating roses with equal certainty and
rapidity with the total abandonment of the cuttings or buds to
drought, by an act of forgetfulness or intentional rose-murder.

To propagate by layers is the easiest plan of all ; but it is impos-
sible to make many roses in this way, because two or three are the
utmost number obtainable from a shoot, whereas by cuttings or buds
a strong shoot will furnish material for from twelve to twenty plants.
But certainty may well compensate for lack of quantity with many
readers ; and our advice to lovers of roses who cannot see their way
clear to strike cuttings, is to make layers of them in July and August
in precisely the same way as carnations and picotees are layered.
Lastly, but not leastly : If you will wait until the middle of Septem-
ber, you may then begin to multiply roses by what we have designated
"the currant-tree system." To make short work of the subject, we
may remark that roses may be struck from cuttings precisely as cur-
rant-trees are struck ; but the business should be attended to while
the roses yet have green leaves upon them. Many try this system
and fail. It is all their own fault, for they allow the proper season
to pass by, and suddenly make a rush at the propagating when the
season for the work is past. From the middle of September to the
end of October is the proper time for the practice of the currant-tree
system of multiplying roses, and if the work is well done then, eighty
per cent, of the cuttings will root. People who are blessed with a
spirit of patience and perseverance may continue, or begin, to put in
cuttings of roses in the open ground or in frames all through the

106

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

winter months, say from November to February, and in favourable
seasons may be wonderfully successful. But the risk of loss is great,
and the only argument in favour of winter propagation is, that in
peculiarly sheltered spots, where an early bloom is desired, winter
pruning must be practised, and the prunings may be turned to
account to make stock, provided only that nature will assist the
enterprise. In the attempt to strike cuttiugs after the turn of the
year, a cold frame and a bed of cocoanut-fibre and sand will be
immensely serviceable. If the steady bottom heat of a propagating
house can be secured, first lay the cuttings in a horizontal position,
just covered with tan or fibre, in a warm, moist place for a week or
so, to promote the formation of the " callus," and then insert them
upright in sandy stuff in a temperature of about 50 deg., a few
degrees more or less being of no consequence, provided only that the
bed is neither burning hot nor freezing cold. Those who love roses
will discover for themselves five hundred wars of multiplying them,
but as all their ways will be modifications and amplifications of the
modes now proposed, we will not occupy space in describing or
analysing them.

S. H.

TEOP^OLUM TEICOLQUUM.

BY raOMiS TErSSLEE,
Head Gardener, High Leigh, Hoddesdon, Herts.

l^pp^piUE lovely little tuberous-rooted Tropcaolum iricolorum is
'PfPj SlfTi so valuable for conservatory decoration and so easily
jS managed, and, moreover, takes up so little room, that
I often wonder why it is not more extensively grown by
amateur gardeners. Some of my amateur friends, who
have only a little greenhouse, cultivate it very successfully; and when
in bloom the plants are taken indoors, where
they remain an ornament to the drawing-room
window for a considerable period. [Frequently
it is not met with in such good condition as it
otherwise would be, because it is put by when it
dies down in the spring, and is quite forgotten
until it is too late to re-pot it without injuring
the young growth.

To cultivate the plant in question success-
fully, the tubers should be taken out of the old
soil' some time during July or the early part of
August, and be re-potted in the same sized pot
again and a fresh compost used. The roots are rather delicate, and
a light, yet generous, compost should be employed ; but it will be
found that one prepared by well incorporating together equal parts
of light, fibrous loam, turfy peat, and leaf-mould, and a moderate

Fin;. 1.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

207

-iai§i§

Tie.

quantity of silver sand will suit them admirably. The pots must
be clean and well drained, and the tubers buried about two inches
below the surface. The size of the pot must be regulated by the
number of the tubers put in each ; but as a guide to those who

are unacquainted with them, one should
be put in five-inch, two in six-inch,
three in eight-inch, and four in nine-
inch pots, and the last mentioned is the
largest size that should be employed.
The soil must be kept dry until they
start into growth, and then sufficient
water applied to make the soil just
moist, and no more ; for very little
water will be required until they have
made considerable progress. After Feb-
ruary, when the trellis is covered with
foliage, more liberal supplies will be
required, and an occasional dose of weak
liquid manure will be of considerable
service.

The trellis should be fixed in the
pots when: the tubers are newly potted,
but if there are any reasons for not
doing so, they must be fixed in their proper position
before the young growth has attained a consider-
able length ; otherwise there is a great danger of its
becoming entangled, and probably it will be seriously
injured.

The form of the trellis must be left to the taste
of each cultivator, and it is of little consequence in
which way the growth is trained, provided that it is
nicely regulated, and not allowed to run together in
an inextricable mas3.

With these remarks are presented three different
forms of trellis, which will explain themselves. A
balloon (Fig. 1) is perhaps the most desirable ; and
assuredly, when covered with the cheerful green
foliage, and dotted with the scarlet and yellow
flowers, the effect is most satisfactory. Flat trel-
lises, of which Figs. 2 and 3 are the type, are very
well in their way, and are the most suitable for
windows or other positions where there would not
be room for a balloon. Small feathery sticks, like the
tops of pea sticks, about eighteen inches in length,
inserted round the outside of the pot, may be employed instead of
wire trainers, and the slender growth twining about the aprays have
a most pleasing and picturesque appearance.

208

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HUME A ELEGANS.

BY A HEAD GARDENER.

E all the graceful growing plants recommended for the
embellishment of the flower garden during the summer
months, none can surpass in elegance of outline, or are
more thoroughly useful than the one under notice. It
is in every way suitable for the centre of flower beds,
vases, rustic baskets, and also for growing in pots or vases, for stand-
ing in prominent positions by the side of terrace and other walks.
Also when at its best eminently suitable for conservatory decoration,
and a few large well grown specimens intermixed with the flowering

lll'MEA. EEEGANS.

plants, with which the conservatory is usually decorated during the
summer months. wrill produce a most unique effect.

The seed should be sown some time between the second week in
July and the second week in August, in seed pans filled with a mix-
ture of light loam, sand, and leaf-mould. Put the seed pans in a cold
frame, or cover them with a piece of glass and put them on the side
of a wall, or wherever they will be effectually screened from the sun.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 209

A light sprinkling of water will be required occasionally, to maintain
the soil in a moderately moist condition ; but it must not be satu-
rated with water, or it will become sour and the seed will perish.
Tilt the glass a little, when a fair proportion of the youug plants are
visible ; and in about a week afterwards, remove it altogether. To
prevent over crowding, when the plants are strong enough, prick
them off into pans or pots filled with light compost, and from thence,
pot them off separately in three-inch, when about an inch in height.
Keep them in a shady position, until they have recovered from the
effects of the shift, and then remove to an open position, and stand
the pots upon a bed of coal ashes. After the first week in October,
considerable risk will be run, if they remain in the open, therefore,
soon after the end of September, remove them to a frame where they
can have an abundance of air in mild weather, and protection from
frost, when required. The stock can be wintered in a greenhouse
very successfully, but the plants must have the advantage of a light
and airy position, and must not be crowded up with other plants.
"When they become drawn during the winter, the lower leaves usually
fall off in the spring, and the plants present a somewhat unsightly
appearance in consequence. One of the most essential points is to
guard against their becoming pot-bound, or their suffering from
drought ; but they must not be over-potted or over-watered. If the
pots, in which they are put from the seed pans, are moderately well
filled with roots prior to the end of October, shift them into pots
one size larger, otherwise do not re-pot them until the middle of
January, and then put them into six-inch pots. As it will not be safe
or convenient to plant them out before the end of May, re-pot them
in April, and put the largest sized plants into ten-inch pots, and the
others into eight-inch. A few of the smallest may be put into pots
six inches in diameter, and they will be found useful for mixing with
the flowering plants in large rustic baskets, or for the centre of small
terra cotta, or stone vases.

For the characteristic sketch of this useful old plant, we have to
thank Messrs. Hooper and Co., Central Avenue, Covent Garden, in
whose catalogue we observe that seed is entered at sixpence ; so
that it may be truly said to be within the reach of all classes.

Propagating Geraniums from Leaves — Mistletoe or Wistaiua. — Possessing
a plant of the ivy-leaved geranium " L'Elegante," I was desirous of increasing the
stock. I accordingly struck a number of cuttings. Amongst these I placed in the
cutting-pot, as an experiment, a single leaf, with no portion of the main stalk or a
bud attached. '1 his leaf has struck, and has now become a good-sized plant. But
the foliage is totally different from that of the parent plant, which has leaves of a
glossy green colour, with a narrow white margin. In the plant raised from the leaf
there is no edging to the leaves, and they are entirely green, with the exception of
a dark bronze blotch in the centre of the oldest leaves. The plant has not yet
flowered, and I shall be curious to see whether the blossom will differ from that of
the original plant. Another fact has recently come under my notice, which is new
to roe, and may possibly prove of interest to your readers. In the garden of P. P.
Williams, Esq., of Stoke House, near Tenbury, I have lately seen a spray of
mistletoe growing upon a Weigelia ; as the branch upon which it is growing is a very
small one, it seems difficult to imagine how the seed of the mistletoe can have found
a resting place upon it. (Rev.) Seymour Y. Williams.

Whiilun House, near Lndlo%i\

VOL. VI. — NO. VII. 14

210 TEE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE,

THE BEGINNER IN GRAPE-GROWING.— No. V.

BY "WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

PLANTING AND PEUNING.

jjUMMER planting has the advantage of enahling the
cultivator to replant vineries which have been forced
immediately the crop is gathered, and also to plant in
houses erected in the early part of the season, and thus
avoid any loss of time. Excepting for the reasons here
stated, spring and autumn planting are preferable ; because, hi one
case, the vines have the whole summer in which to complete their
new growth, and in the other, they have an opportunity of becoming
established in the border before the growing season commences. In
planting vineries at this season of the year it is important to select
strong, vigorous vines, that were either raised from eyes struck in
March last, or else those which were struck the previous season, and
cut back during last winter, and started in the spring in a genial
growing temperature. They should be planted not later than the
second week of July ; and it would be better to wait unLil October,
and plant well-ripened canes, than to plant vines in full growth after
the period here mentioned. They should be well watered previous to
planting, unless the soil is sufficiently moist ; and to enable the roots
to strike out more readily into the new soil, carefully loosen those
near the outside, and press the soil very firm about them. Also, to
afford them all the encouragement possible, water them with tepid
water.

Spring planting is performed in much the same manner as advised
for putting out the vines in summer, and therefore the instructions
here given will apply with equal force to those planted in spring. It
is, however, important to observe, that as the soil of which the border
consists will necessarily be of a low temperature in the early spring
months, the vines should not be grown in a high temperature, or
receive the assistance of bottom heat, or the roots will probably be
chilled when the cold soil comes in contact with them, and a large
proportion perish. The safest course will be to select moderately-
strong, but well-ripened canes, in eight-inch pots, and cut them
down a short time before Christmas ; then, early in February, put
them in a temperature of about 50 deg., and when the young shoots
are about three inches in length, put them in pots two sizes larger,
and plant out in the permanent borders when the pots are well filled
with roots, but before the vines have become pot-bound. The house,
after the vines are planted, must be kept rather close, and the tem-
perature not allowed to fall below 60 deg. It is most important to
encourage the vines as much as possible, and therefore, if required,
employ a little fire-heat to keep the temperature at the desired
height. A moist atmosphere will also be conducive to an early and
vigorous growth, and can be easily provided by sprinkling the walls,
and paths, and heating apparatus occasionally with clear water.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

211

Cold and greenhouse vineries, and also other vineries, the
borders of which are entirely outside, should be planted in the
autumn, and then there will be no danger of the vines suffering
from a check of any kind. When planted outside, a sufficient
length of the old cane can be left to extend into the house, so that
the young growth will be entirely under cover. There is not much
risk attached to planting at any of the above-mentioned periods,
provided the vines receive careful attention ; but the least risk is
attached to planting during October and November, and for that
reason planting at that period can be the most highly recommended
to the notice of amateur cultivators. A distance of three or four
feet apart will be suitable for ordinary vineries, and if it 'is intended
to train the vines on the extension system, they can be removed to
make way for the growth of the permanent vine.

Pruning the vine might now engage our attention ; but, with
the aid of the accompanying diagrams, there will not be much
difficulty in understanding the following directions. Fi«-s. 1 and
2 show the vine trained on the one rod and spur system, and

Fi<r. 3.

Fig. 3 illustrates the extension and the long-rod system. "We will not
pause to inquire into the advantages and disadvantages of the two
systems, for the reasona stated in a former article, but will at once
pass on to describe the manner in wdiieh vines trained on each
system are pruned. -Fig. 1 is supposed to represent a vine after it
has completed its first season's growth, and has shed its leaves;
although vines will, if they do well, attain a length of fifteen or
twenty feet the first season, they should be trained under the
rafters, as shown in Fig. 2, or in the centre of the lights. The
wires should in both cases be fixed lengthwise of the house, at a
distance of about twelve inches from the glass, to admit of the full
development of the foliage without its touching the glass. JNo
stopping whatever is required during the first summer season, until
the top of the rafter is reached, and then the terminal point should
be pinched out, and the laterals which push from the axils of the
leaves allowed to grow unchecked, and it will be well to bear in
mind that it is very undesirable to incur the risk of starting the
main buds. Some time during the winter season, but not later than
the middle of February, cut the canes back to just above the lowest
bud, and carefully guard against the shoot which starts therefrom
being injured in any way, and fix a stake by which it can be sup-

212 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

ported until it reaches the roof. Vines which are strong, and
planted behind pipes, should be cut back to one bud above the level
of pipes, and all the growth which starts from all the lower buds
must be rubbed of before it exceeds two inches in length, otherwise
it will rob the leading shoot of its proper share of nourishment.
The following winter season, shorten the canes to about one-half,
and at the third winter prune them to about three-fourths of their
length. Those trained to roofs not exceeding twelve feet will only
require shortening about half way the second winter. If they do
well, the canes will be strong enough to admit of their being left
their full length the winter following.

The extension system consists in having a sufficient number of
rods from one vine to entirely fill the house ; or two vines, if a span
roof. The centre rod should be taken up the first season ; those on
eacb side, the second season, and so on, until the house is filled ;
if, however, the vine is not so vigorous as it should be, one rod only
must be taken up each season. They must be shortened back in the
same manner as those trained on the single-rod system, and, of
course, trained perfectly straight.

Some growers prefer the long-rod system, which consists in
keeping up a constant succession of young canes, and have a double
set — the second set being represented by the dotted lines in Fig. 3.
After a sufficient number of rods, as described above, are obtained,
a young shoot is trained up between each, and in the winter follow-
ing, the old rods, or those upon which the fruit was borne, are taken
off first above the bottom spur, and the following season a young
one is trained up to take its place. The rods, represented by the
dotted lines, ai'e left their full length and allowed to carry a crop of
grapes the following summer ; and in the winter following are
in their turn removed, and the young shoots which spring from
the base of those headed down, are dealt with in the same way the
following season.

The management of the side branches, or fruiting spurs as
they are usually called, must now engage our attention ; and it is to
be hoped the directions here given will be clearly understood. As
a rule, the spurs should be from twelve to fifteen inches apart on
each side of the cane ; it will therefore be necessary to rub off in
the spring every other. shoot on each side. To prevent the possi-
bility of a misunderstanding upon this point, let us for a moment
suppose the base of the vine represented in Fig. 1 to be that part of
the cane at the bottom of the rafter. On the left hand are six buds,
and on the right, five ; therefore, the second, fourth, aud sixth buds
should be removed from the former, and the second and fourth from
the latter ; stop the side branches at two joints above the bunch,
and the laterals which push from the terminal buds of the latter at
the first joint. At the winter pruning, cut the side branches back
to within two buds of the base ; and when the young growth is
sufficiently advanced to enable the cultivator to determine which
of the two shoots is the strongest, the weakest must be rubbed off".
"When the difference in the strength is trifling, the shoot nearest the
main-rod must be left, for it is desirable to keep the spurs as short

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 213

as possible. In giving the above directions, it is supposed that fruit
is produced at each shoot; but as the strongest do nob always carry-
fruit, due regard must be paid in the removal of the young growth
to secure a regular crop all over the house ; but one shoot only must
be left to each spur, and not more than one bunch of fruit to each.
The training and pruning of outdoor vines must be deferred until
their planting and general management is dealt with.

OUR ORNAMENTAL-LEAVED PLANTS EOR TABLE
DECORATION.

BV J. W. SILVER,
Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton, Somerset-.

jjLANTS adapted for the embellishment of the dinner
table have received such a large share of attention
within the last few years, that I am induced to make
a few remarks on some of the most useful, with the hope
that they will be acceptable to readers of the Eloral
World. A list of the most desirable kinds will also be given as we
proceed, which on this occasion must be confined to plants re-
markable for their beautiful foliage, for it would take up too much
space to deal with both fine foliage and flowering plants in one
number.

The principal conditions to be borne in mind in the cultivation
of plants for the dinner table, are to have them as dwarf and
compact as possible, to keep the foliage of the brightest hue
possible, and also to grow them in as small pots as circumstances
will admit. The size of the pots should range from three to six, or,
at the outside, eight inches in diameter ; but plants in five-inch
pots will be of the greatest value, as they can be employed where
the larger pots would be useless.

One of the most useful and easily cultivated classes of fine foliage
plants are the best of the new Coleua, for when well grown they are
so remarkably effective that for table decoration their value cannot
well be exaggerated. They should in fact be grown extensively,
because so little labour and skill is necessary to produce handsome
specimens. The method pursued here with very successful results is to
insert seven or eight cuttings in afive-inch pot,and place them inalittle
extra warmth, and shelter until well rooted. They are then placed on
a shelf in the full sun, wherethey grow rapidly, and in a few weeks, with
ordinary attention, become handsome specimens, with foliage of the
richest colour. This mode of culture is preferable to any I hav3 yet
tried, for a few weeks only are required for the production of well-
developed specimens. Attention must be given to watering, because
if the soil is allowed to become very dry, they invariably lose thejr
bottom leaves and become unsightly ; plants from six to ten inches
in height are the most effective. The tops of plants which have
grown too tall may be taken off" and inserted in cutting pots, as

214 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

advised above, and by this means a regular succession can be kept
up. A temperature -varying from 55° to GO" must be maintained
during the winter months, but they grow freely in the greenhouse
during the summer. The best varieties for the dinner table are,
Albeit Victor, Queen Victoria, Baroness Rothschild, Princess Moycd,
and Bulce of Edinburgh.

Iresines nest claim our attention, and the most useful is
undoubtedly I. Lindenii, which is now universally acknowledged to
be the best dark-leaved plant grown for bedding purposes. It is
managed here in. the same manner as the Coleus, with the single
exception that it requires stopping once, and the side-shoots allowed
to break, before being introduced to the table. I. acuminata and
I. Herbslii may be used in the same way, but they are by no means
so neat in growth or effective in appearance as the lirst named.
The compost used here both for Iresines and Coleus consists of one-
third each of loam, peat, and leaf-mould, well incorporated together.
To this a liberal proportion of sand must be added.

Dracjenas. — All the best sorts are more or less useful, but the
green kinds are not so effective as those with dark highly coloured
foliage, which must, however, be grown on quickly, and used when
from ten to twelve inches in height. To propagate a stock of young
plants, it is a good plan to cut down an old plant, and then cut the
stem up into one-inch lengths, and allow the wounds to dry before
being inserted in the pots or pans. A large pan, filled with any
light sandy compost ; each piece will generally produce from two to
three shoots, which may be taken off when large enough (say about
two inches in length), and put singly in small pots. If unable to
cut down an old plant, turn one out of the pot, and after removing
the potsherds, take off the fleshy parts of the roots with a sharp
knife and insert them in single pots, and place in a brisk bottom
heat. In a few weeks they produce young shoots, and make much
better plants than those raised from stem cuttings. The best three
of the older dark-leaved kinds are — Terminalis, Terminalis grandis,
and Cooperii ; and the two best green kinds are Veitchii and Gracilis.
Indivisa is also very good, and may be grown instead of Veitchii if
that kind cannot be afforded.

Acaltpha tricolor is most charming for the table. It
requires a stove temperature, and it is necessary to keep it as near
the glass as possible, and also well exposed to the sun, to bring out
its bright crimson and red variegation ; young plants on single
stems are the most desirable. The best compost is prepared by
incorporating together two- thirds fibry peat, one-third good turfy
loam, and a liberal proportion of silver sand to keep the soil open
and porous.

Having disposed of the most useful kinds with dark leafage,
those with golden variegation next claim attention, foremost among
which stand the

Crotons. — These are certainly unsurpassable, for the table, when
well grown, and richly coloured. The cuttings should be struck early in
the spring, before the old plants start into growth. They should be
inserted singly in the smallest size pots, and placed in a brisk bottom

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 215

heat. The most suitable compost for filling the cutting pots is sifted
peat and leaf-mould in equal proportions, and plenty of silver sand.
Water carefully until the cuttings are well rooted. Shift into five-
inch pots as soon as the pots are filled with roots, and place close to
the glass, where they can have the fullest amount of light and sun.
Keeping them near the glass is of immense importance, for without
light the foliage becomes green and ineffective. Allow me here to
state the compost in all subsequent shifts must be used much
rougher than advised above, and one-third turfy loam added. There
are now a large nu'mberof Crotons, all of which are useful ; but for this
purpose I shall recommend Variegatum, August i folium, Interruptum,
ILillkumm, and Veitchti.

Sancuezia hoblis vaeiegata is exceedingly handsome, and
where the convenience exists it should be grown in quantity. The
cuttings can be struck at any time during the spring and summer
months, and it is desirable to grow them on quickly to obtain good
plants. Specimens with single stems are far preferable; the
directions given for developing the colour of the Coleus apply to the
Sanchezia with equal force. Unless grown in a light position and
exposed to the sun, the leaves will become green and comparatively
useless. Pot in a mixture of equal parts of leaf-mould, peat, and
loam, with sufficient silver sand to make the whole gritty to the
hand.

Ananassa saliva yabiegata. — The variegated pine, in its
young state, is of all the plants above mentioned one of the most
useful for the table. Under the influence of artificial light,
the colouring is remarkably bright and attractive, which, added to
its graceful habit,, renders it eminently desirable. It requires
keeping near the glass, as a free exposure to the light is necessary to
bring out the rich leaf-tints for which it is remarkable. A compost of
two parts silky loam and equal parts of well-decayed cow manure
and sand, will grow it to perfection. Care must be taken to
prevent the plants receiving a check of any kind, and thus guard
against their fruiting prematurely, because they are of no use ex-
cepting for propagating purposes after they have fruited.

KEEPING LATE GRAPES.

BY WILLIAM TEMPLE,
Head Gardener, Balbirnie, Markinch, N.B.

j'T the first meeting of the Eoyal Horticultural Society,
held at South Kensington in May and June, Mr. Tem-
ple, the able head- gardener at Balbirnie, exhibited
specimens of Lady Downe's Seedling Grape in a most
excellent state of preservation, the berries being plump
and the flavour full and rich. The method adopted to preserve them
is exceedingly simple, and worth the attention of amateurs who have
to winter a large proportion of their bedding plants in the Vinery.

216 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Thick-skinned sorts only, such as Kempsey Alicante and Lady
Downe's, can be kept so late in the season as the examples here
referred to ; but Black Hamburgh and other thin-skinned varieties
may be kept much longer suspended in a dry room, with the ends of
the stems inserted in bottles of water, than they can be preserved in
houses filled with plants. Grapes grown in ground vineries may also
be kept for a considerable period in the same manner. In a com-
munication received from Mr. Temple, the mode of keeping late
grapes at Balbirnie is described as follows : —

"The Lady Downe's grapes referred to were ripe in August, cut
in November (I think some earlier and some later, but these were
among the earliest). The temperature would average from 40 to
50 deg., but sometimes down nearly to the freezing point. They
were kept in the dark. The structure in which they were kept is a
common fruit-room, where apples, pears, seed-potatoes, etc., were
crammed. The water in the bottles was never changed entirely, but
a little was added once or twice. A few pieces of charcoal were
placed in many of the bottles, though some had none, but there was
no difference in keeping, taste, etc. The water was partly rain and
spring water from a tank used to catch all the waste water. The
ends of the wood above the bunch, about half an inch long, were
rubbed with Thompson's Styptic. The fruit-room was frequently
fumigated with sulphur, a practice we perform to keep insects and
mice from establishing their quarters. About 120 bunches were thus
kept, and I am not aware that any of them decayed, except a few
berries in April on some very close bunches. I attribute their keep-
ing so sound to thorough ripening early in the season, firing hard,
with top and front air on a month or six weeks after the fruit was
apparently ' finished.' We have practised this system for five years
past with the same results, and have no difficulty in keeping White
and Black Muscats in good condition till March. We had some this
season till the 4th of that month, which were cut early last August.
If you should desire any grapes sent a month hence or later, probably
I may be able to do so, as we have a quantity still in a small shed,
which are finer than those sent. The latest date to which we have
kept Lady Downe's in good condition was June 10th. We exhibited
a bunch three years ago on that date. They were coloured in the
July of the previous year."

Propagating Zonal Pelargoniums. — J\T.T2.— "The best and surest way'' to
propagate Zonal Pelargoniums is to strike the cuttings in the open border some
time during July, August, and September. Select au open, sunny situation, and if
the soil is at all heavy, add a little light, sandy soil, such as the refuse of the
potting-bench or road-scrapings, before inserting the cuttings. Dibble the cuttings
in the border at a distance of about two inches apart, and after giving them one
moderately liberal watering to settle the soil about them, they should not be watered
artificially until they are taken up and put in pots, un 'ess the weather happens to
be very dry, and then a moderate watering once a week will be of material assist-
ance. They should be put in pots immediately they are struck, for when allowed
to remain until firmly established in the border they suffer a severe check when
taken up. Liberal waterings and a confined atmosphere are the chief causes of
the cuttings of these plants decaying at the base.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

217

NEW PLANTS.

YACINTHUS caudicans (Eef. Bot., 174).— A splendid greenhouse
bulb with flower-scape four feet long, bearing fifteen to twenty pure
white llowers. It is a native of South Africa, and one of the finest
amongst the many fine plants introduced from that country.

Statice spicata. — This beautiful annual species was described at
page 190, and now, thanks to the kindness of Messrs. Hooper and Co., of the
Central Avenue, Covent Garden Market, W.(J., we are enabled to present our readers

W^

Statice spicata.

^

with a characteristic figure of a complete plant. It appears that this species is not
strictly new, having been introduced into this country as far back as 1818, but,
like many other good tilings, has from some cause or other gone out of cultivation,
and we hail its re-introduction with a considerable amount of pleasure.

Hyacixthus princets (Eef. Bot., 175). — A handsome greenhouse bulb with
nodding greenish-white flowers. This is a native of the same South African region
as the foregoing.

Callipsyche aurantiaca (Eef. Bot. 167). — A handsome warm greenhouse
amaryllid with golden yellow flowers.

Callypsyche mirabilis {Ref. Bot. 168). — A curious amaryllid bearing
greenish -yellow flowers.

218

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

&

rfl

■ y

Acer palmatum crispum (IUust. Sort., 43). — A beautiful maple, with elegant
narrow-lobed leaves and red leafstalks.

Quercus striata (IUust. Sort , 44). — A beautiful oak, the leaves of which are
marked with alternate bars of green and yellow.

■ Odontoglossum nevadense (IUust. Sort., 45). — A fine species with large
flowers of a fine brown colour edged with yellow ; the lip white.

Acer palmatum ornatum (IUust. Sort., ^S).— A beautiful maple, with deeply-
divided blood-red leaves.

Mimulus Tilikgi. — A veiy pretty and distinct Mimulus, which inhabits the

Sierra Nevada, California,
■where it was discovered by
Dr. Tilling, who introduced
it to this country. It differs
from the Mimulus already
in cultivation in this coun-
try, and is most easily
grown ; and large flowering
specimens can be produced in
a surprisingly short space of
time. It is of erect growth,
and attains a height of nearly
three feet, with numerous
branching stems, terminating
with spikes of clear yellow
flowers of the shape shown
in the accompanying illus-
tration, for which we .are
indebted to Messrs. Hooper
and Co.

New Caladiums (IUust.
Sort., 37). — Senry Uoucet
has a grand fiery leaf
almost wholly overspread
with sanguineous carmine,
the extreme margin only
being green. Eloile d'ar-
fpnf is most elegantly
marked with white veins,
shading off to grey bands,
beyond which the surf -co
is delicately powdered with
white on a full dee]) green
ground. Jules Puizeys is
extremely elegant and pecu-
liarly showy. The midrib
and principal veins are of
a brilliant crimson colour ;
the interspaces powdered
with white and blotched with
crimson on a ground of deep
green.
Todea Africana (IUust. Sort., 38).— A tolerably good figure of a well-known
fern.

Odontoglossum ouoratum, v. latimaculatum (IUust. Sort., 39). — A pleasing
variety, prettily spotted.

Aristolochia clypeata (IUust. Sort., 40). — A magnificent species with im-
mense flowers, heavily spotted chocolate-brown on a ground of pale brownish buff.

Camellia Madame de Cannart d'Hamule (IUust. Sort., 41).— The flowers
are flesh-coloured, with a tinge of pink at the base of every petal. If judged by the
figure this is a valueless variety.

Masbevallia Lindeni (IUust. Sort., 42). — A good figure of this interesting
and comparatively unknown orchid.

,r.

—' J

r

Mimulus Tiling: (Flowering Branch).

THE FLORAL WOULD AKD GARDEN GUIDE. 219

THE GAKDEN GUIDE FQK JULY.

Flower Garden. — This month i3 a capital time for propagating
many herbaceous plants. Young side-shoots of Antirrhinums, Pent-
stemons, and Phloxes will root freely under a hand-glass, with the
needful attention of watering and shading. Polyanthus that are
wished to be increased may be taken up and divided early in the
month. Shorten the tap roots, and replant at a distance of about a
foot apart each way. These plants do best in loam, leaf-mould, and
cow-dung. A shady position is the most suitable, and the plants
should have two or three good wateriugs after they are planted.
Seed must be sown as soon as possible. The Eose-beds must_ be
looked over frequently, and all suckers removed. The old flowering
shoots should also be cut back, and the trees have a few good closes
of liquid manure to aid in the production of a good autumn bloom.
Budding must be proceeded with ; if the stocks do not run freely, a
thorough watering will generally start them. The evening is the
best time for budding. Towards the end of the month the wood will
be in proper order for making cuttings of strong half-ripened shoots
cut into pieces of three joints each. The bottom leaf should be
removed, and the cutting inserted firmly in a bed of light, sandy stuff,
over a gentle hot-bed, where it will root freely. Cuttings will also
root well in a frame placed upon an elevated bed of soil, without
bottom-heat, but not so quickly as with that assistance. The frame
must be kept close, and shaded until the cuttings are nicely callused.
Evergreens may now be pruned, and their growth regulated. The
annuals that are past their best should be cleared away, to prevent
the garden having an untidy appearance. Where it is intended to
save seed from any of the herbaceous plants, it is a good plan to
cut the old flower-spikes directly the lower seed-pods begin to ripen,
and stick them in pots filled with wet sand, and place indoors over a
large sheet of paper, to catch the seed. When left on the plants
until the whole of the seed is ripe, three-parts of it will be scattered
to the winds and lost. Where it is intended to increase the stock of
Pinks, Picotees, and Carnations, propagation must be commenced in
the early part of the month, either by pipings or layers.

Kitchen Garden. — Anything that is in need of water should
have sufficient to soak the ground for a considerable depth. Surface
watering does more harm than good ; it attracts the roots to the
surface, where they are more exposed to atmospheric influences than
before. Hundreds of crops were destroyed last year through improper
waterings. Unless labour is abundant, and the time can be spared
to follow it up, leave watering alone. Tomatoes ought to be stopped
just above the fruit, and be well pinched in, if plenty of fine fruit is
expected. Continue to plant out all the winter stuff as fast as
possible; the evening is the best time. Keep the Celery well watered,
and plant out the main crop. Let every pod be removed from both
Runners and Dwarf Beans directly they arc large enough for gather-
ing. Sow the main crop of Turnips, and successional supplies of

220 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Lettuce, Radish, Spinach, Small Salad, a few rows of early Peas, and
a bed of Stadtholder Cauliflowers. The principal crop of Cauliflowers
and French Beans in bearing will receive considerable help from a
thick coat of short litter or other mulching material about the roots.
Conservatory. — Hard-wooded plants that flowered late, and
were kept indoors to finish the growth, should go out of doors now.
Particular care must be paid to plant's standing out of doors. If
allowed to suffer from drought at this season, next year's bloom will
be impaired. Quite two-thirds of the cases of the Camellias drop-
ping their buds iu the early part of the winter arises from the plants
becoming dust dry at the roots "now and then," between this time
and September, and the other third arises from the pots being in-
effectually drained, and the soil gettiug sour in consequence.
Frequently, specimen-plants suffer through the pots being placed on
the ground without any protection underneath from worms. This
should be looked to, and the pots set on three small pots, or a good
thickness of coal-ashes placed underneath. Roses in pots should be
plunged, to prevent the soil drying up quickly, and rendering a lot
of watering necessary. All soft-wooded stuff growing freely, such
as Petunias, Fuchsias, Zonal Pelargoniums, Browallias, etc., should
be encouraged with liquid manure until they come into flower.
Pelargoniums that have ripened their young wood nicely must be
cut back to two or three eyes at once, and kept rather dry until the
buds push.

Forcing. — Keep Muscats going with a little fire-heat in unfavour-
able weather. In the late houses, where the grapes are swelling, the
laterals must be kept stopped ; but where they are stoning, a consider-
able extension of laterals can be allowed. The earlier houses, from
which the crop has been gathered, must be thrown open as wide as
possible, and the laterals allowed to grow freely for a short time, to
help to swell up the buds. The foliage of Peaches and Nectarines
must be washed with the syringe frequently after the crop is gathered,
and all the air possible admitted. Cucumbers and Melons must be
kept well thinned out; the former should be stopped regularly at
one joint beyond the fruit. The fruit-bearing laterals of the Melons
must be allowed to grow, and the others nipped off as fast as they
make their appearance. Keep both well supplied with water, and
give air early in the morning, to afford the foliage a chance of becoming
dry before the sun acts powerfully upon it.

Fruit Garden. — Thin, stop, and train the young growth of wall
and other fruit trees. Thin out the fruit before it gets too large,
and robs that intended to remain. Proceed with layering Strawberry-
runners, both for forcing and making new beds. Plants layered in
pots, and planted out when well rooted in thoroughly trenched
ground, will bear well next summer.

Pits and Frames. — Sow Herbaceous Calceolarias and Cyclamens
for principal batch, and Cinerarias and Primulas for late bloom.
Shift on, as it becomes necessary, earlier batches, and not let them
become pot-bound at this stage.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 221

HORTICULTUEAL NOTES.

UNE has been characterized this year by the preva-
lence of cold easterly winds, and an almost total absence
of sun, and the fruit crops throughout the country
have suffered severely, and their appearance has under-
gone a wonderful change during the month. In many
parts of the country, especially in some districts in the neighbour-
hood of the metropolis, the currant-bushes and other fruit-trees have
almost been killed by the attacks of the aphis, and in some orchards
the apple-trees are well-nigh denuded of fruit, and the prospect at
present is anything but cheering. The heavy rains with which we
have been favoured during the month have in some cases assisted in
clearing currant-bushes of the aphis ; but the best remedy, because
the most simple and effectual, has been dusting the trees with new-
slaked lime when the foliage was moist with dew. Dusting the
trees with lime quite spoils the fruit ; but it is hardly necessary to
say that when the trees are so badly infested as they have been
in many parts of the country this year, a great risk exists of their
being killed outright, unless remedial measures are resorted to before
the insect pests have established themselves firmly.

The temperature has also been extremely low, and the tender
bedding-plants, such as Alternantheras and Coleus, have hardly been
able to stand their ground, and the possibility of their making new
growth has been out of the question, and the summer will in all pro-
bability be far advanced before the flower garden— unless the
situation is exceptionally favourable — can present a very brilliant
appearance.

The exhibitions of horticultural and floricultural produce have
been unusually numerous, both in the metropolis and the provinces,
but, excepting the exhibition held at Manchester, which was
attended by upwards of 50,000 visitors, and the exhibition held at
Nottingham, under the auspices of the Eoyal Horticultural Society,
none of them were above mediocrity. The most interesting features
of the metropolitan exhibitions have been the new plants and new
florists' flowers, and the most important of the latter were the new
large-flowering show pelargoniums exhibited by Mr. C. Turner,
Slough, on behalf of E. B. Foster, Esq., Clewer Manor, which will
probably be sent out next spring ; and Dr. Denny's new zonal
pelargoniums, now in course of distribution by Mr. W. Paul, Wal-
tham Cross. The latter are, in their respective colours, a wonderful
advance on all existing varieties, and will, when they become well
known, find their way into every collection of geraniums in the
country. To overpraise them is almost impossible, and those who
are interested in this useful class of plants, who did not see them
when exhibited during the season, will do well, if they have the
opportunity, to pay a visit to the Waltham Nurseries some time
during the summer. The following brief description will convey a
fair idea of the colour of the flowers, and also of the general cha-
racter of the plants ; and, to show that their merits are not over-

222 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

stated, it is worthy of mention that they have all received first-class
certificates at the great London shows. The names and colours are
as follows : —

Diana, rich deep velvety crimson, flowers of good form and sub-
stance ; trusses of medium size, but freely produced ; habit dwarf,
and said to be adapted for bedding culture. Haidee, magenta
shaded with blue ; very pleasing and attractive. Iago, bright
orange-scarlet ; flowers large, and of grand form, and produced
in bold, conspicuous trusses ; neat, dark green zonal foliage ;
habit compact and robust ; fine for conservatory decoration and
specimen culture. Ianthe, bluish crimson flowers of large size, good
shape and substance ; habit dwarf and branching, with handsome
dark green zonal foliage. Sir Charles Napier, brilliant dark scarlet;
flowers very large, of great substance and fine form ; petals con-
siderably overlapping; first-class for exhibition specimens. Sir John
Moore, dark scarlet ; flowers large, of fine form and great substance ;
habit good ; flower-stalks erect and wiry. Wellington, dark velvety
maroon-crimson, petals broad and finely formed, trusses of immense
size and handsome foliage; a grand hybrid nosegay for conservatory
decoration.

Mr. Foster's new show pelargoniums are all so rich in colour,
large in size, and so perfect in form, that it appears almost impos-
sible to effect any further improvement. The best and most
distinct varieties exhibited during the present season are Blue Boll,
Brigand, Ccesar, Achievement, Conquest, Chieftain, Great ATogul,
Plato, Prelate, Pompey, Rubens, Finale, and Lord Byron.

Before quitting the Geraniums, mention must be made of a new
pink-flowered bedder, Master Christine, now being distributed by
Mr. Cannell, of Woolwich. At the last Meeting of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, Mr. Cannell exhibited several specimens which
afforded ample evidence of its extreme floriferous character, and the
possibility of its quite surpassing Christine for bedding purposes.
In habit, it is very dwarf and compact ; the wood being remarkably
short jointed, and the flowers are produced in large trusses on stout
flower-stalks, which stand well above the foliage. The flowers are a
few shades deeper in colour than Christine, and wonderfully effective.
It received the highest award from the Royal Horticultural Society
it could possibly have, last autumn ; and the plants were apparently
exhibited to show that it preserves its high character.

Amongst thelarge number of new plants exhibitedat the first June
Meeting at Kensington, were a fine perpetual flowering Clove, Miss
Joliffe, a very free flowering variety of great value for bouquets, with
flesh-coloured flowers, from Mr. Master's gardener, East Macclesfield.
Linum campanulatum, an improved form of the well-known Linum
flavum,and therefore most valuable, from Mr. Atkins, Painswick ; and
double flowering Petunia Pantaloon, one of the many fine varieties with
fringed flowers raised at Chiswick. Lathyrus Sibthorpi, a perennial
species with medium-sized flowers of a purplish rose, introduced from
Greece by Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich ; and a new white decorative
pink Lady Blanch, staged by Mr. C. Turner, Slough, who also sent
to the last meeting a grand show pink Godfrey, a superb flower of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 223

the finest form, very full, and heavily laced with rose-purple. The
last Meeting of the Eojal Horticultural Society was devoted chiefly
to Fuchsias and Palms. The trade growers of Fuchsias were repre-
sented by Messrs. "Wright, of Lee, who were the only exhibitors
in the class set apart for nurserymen ; but the amateur growers
mustered in strong force, and the prizes in the class for twelve speci-
mens in eight-inch pots, and also for six in thirteen-inch pots, were
ly contested ; and the first prize in both classes was carried off
r. James, gardener to W. F. Watson, Esq., Isleworth, whose
mens, although not of large size, were marvels of cultural skill.
ae varieties staged by Mr. James, in the collection of twelve, were
3-ii -y Girl, Taglioni, Starlight, Lady Heytesbury, Catherine Parr,
A.valanche, Killiecrankie, Daniel Lambert, Weeping Beauty, and
Generous. Mr. James, it will be remembered, recently contributed
>er on Fuchsia Growing to the Floral Woeld, and no one who
the plants exhibited by him on the occasion referred to, could
4 )t his fitness to offer advice on the cultivation of this graceful
/ing plant. The competition in the classes for Palms was also
good, and equal first prizes were awarded to Mr. B. G. Williams,
C pper Holloway, and Mr. Linden, of Brussels, who has probably
the finest collection of Palms in existence.

The Crystal Palace Bose Show, which was held on the 2-lth ulfc.,
was rather below the average of former years, although a large
number of very fine blooms were staged. The principal trade exhi-
bitors were Messrs. Paul, Keynes, Turner, and Mitchell ; and a new
exhibitor, Mr. Baker, of Heavitree, Devon, carried off the lion's share
of first prizes in the division set apart for amateurs. Amongst the
new roses occurred a new English variety, Robert Marnoclc, a grand
dark flower, similar in character to Duke of Edinburgh, but more
darker in colour, raised and exhibited by Messrs. Paul and Son,
Cheshunt.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

MANaraNCr Roses. — A Tyro. — Spread the sweepings of the p'geon-honse over
the surface of the border, and the rains will wash its fertilizing properties down to
the roots. It can_be used in this manner quite fresh. The frond of the fern received
is not sufficiently developed to admit of our giving you its name.

J. O'Donnell. — The flowers have nothing to do with the maturation of the
tubers, and the recommendation for their removal is given simply because the
energies of the plants must be diverted fiom their proper course if they have to
mature a crop of seed as well as the tubers. Several excellent papers on strawberry
culture, by some of the best praeticals living, have appeared in the Floral Woklo
within the last few years. Try Messrs. Barr and Sugden, 12, King Street, Covent
Garden, for the Tree Onions, as you have experienced a difficulty in obtaining them
elsewhere. . *; v-fi

Christine Hippidey, Slone Easton. — The seedling rose may not flower for
another year or two. The plant must not be over-fed. We suppose that it is not
possible that you have taken up a sucker from the stock upon which the tree men-
tioned is worked. The trees are in a starving state, and the evils arising from
dtfective root-action have been increased by the uncongenial weather we have had.
There is no remedy for the grubs excepting hand-picking. The soil in which the
Lily of the Valley is grown has become exhausted, and the bed should be top-
dressed in the autumn with leaf-mould or well decayed manure.

224 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Egg Plants. — A. E., Hornsey. — It is almost too late to say much about growing
this plant this year. The seeds should be sown in March, and brought along in a
nice heat until they begin to bloom, when you can take them into the greenhouse
for the remaining part of the season. Sow the seed in light soil, pot off' singly, or
two in a pot, as soon as they are large enough, and use a soil composed of two
parts loam and one rotten manure. Give plenty of water after the pots are filled,
with roots, and keep them well syringed to keep down the red-spider. The best
course will be to buy a few plants in small pots, and shift them into large pots at
once.

Clianthus Dampiebi. — Ii. B. — This should be kept growing freely, for
check js hurtful to it, and likely to produce red-spider. It will be a heavy jol
turn them out of pots larger than those they are in already (six to the cast).
may overcome that difficulty by sinking the pots into the holes which the pla.
are to occupy, and then breaking the pots away. They will remain very well ovi
winter in the pots as they are ; and to keep them going give plenty of water, an
once a week a spoonful of Peruvian guano to each, spread over the surface of th
soil in the pot, and washed in with ordinary watering.

Mixed Hepaticas. — A Perplexed, Amateur. — The best way to manage the
hepaticas, so as to get them sorted into colours, depends on how they have been
treated. From the time they ceased flowering, they ought to be in very fine sandy
soil, enriched with plenty of fine mulch from an old dung-bed, to make their growth
for next season. Then left alone till they begin to show bloom-buds early the next
year, when all the old leaves may be cut off, and the plants potted into shallow
seed-pans to bloom in the greenhouse ; such as are wanted for ribbon-work and
systematic planting to be allowed to show their colour, and to be carefully moved
immediately to the places they are to decorate. This plan ensures exactitude as to
colours, and, if properly performed, in no way interferes with the blooming or after-
growth of the plants. When crocuses get mixed, they may be served in the same
way, for they move with as complete balls as chrysanthemums.

Showy Greenhouse Plants. — A Lady Amateur. — The best plants to make your
"greenhouse gay during the next few months" are scarlet Salvias, double Petunias,
Senecios, Crassuias, Abronias, Gesneras, Statice Holfordi and profusa, Brugmansias,
Erica pulchella, Zonal Geraniums, Asters, Balsams, Browallias, Clintonia pulchella,
and any showy annuals that were sown in June. Later in the season, pompone
Chrysanthemums will come in, and make the stages very gay.

Drying Heath. — A Young Botanist. — First of all obtain some new blotting-
paper, and a couple of deal boards, eighteen inches square. Lay out the specimens
as flat as possible, and cut away side branches that are in the way. Place between
blotting-paper with a board above and below, and put on a moderate weight. At
the end of twelve hours, shift the specimens into other sheets of blotting-paper,
made dry and warm by holding them before the fire, and continue to change in the
same way till the specimens are dry. Plants dried quickly between thick folds of
warm blotting-paper, changed every few hours, keep their colour most perfectly ;
but the slower the process, the greater is the probability that the colour will be lost.
Blue flowers are the most likely to deteriorate : they usually change to a dirty
white. On the contrary, yellows hold in all their original brightness.

Vinca major elegantissima. — A. _B. — This is one of the most beautiful of the
variegated periwinkles, and for a fancy edging very chaste and striking. It may
take the place of Golden-leaved geraniums in many cases, but to our eye it is very
distinct in its effect, and better adapted for large beds. It is unquestionably the
best hardy plant, with variegated foliage, for shady positions, in existence.

Sawdust as Manure. — R. B. — Sawdust from some kinds of wood requires a
couple of years to rot; other kinds decay more quickly. It is of very little value
as a manure, but a good material to soak up house-sewage or the drainage from
stables and cowsheds. The appearance of mycelium among decaying wood appears
to be local ; in some districts such a thing is never seen, and wood rots into a peaty
sort of mould of great value to the gardener. In others, the smallest chip has a
network of white threads after a few weeks' exposure to damp, and any living roots
that may be near are pretty sure to suffer. Our advice is not to use sawdust among
fruit-trees at all.

IS RETICULATA

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 225

THE CULTIVATION OF IRIS.

(With Coloured Plate of Iris reticulata.)

N the revival of a taste for hardy herbaceous plants which
it has been the pleasure and privilege of the present
generation to witness, the Iris has obtained a consider-
able share of attention, and many good collections have
been formed in gardens which would have been closed
against them altogether a few years since. We have, we trust,
done our full part in promoting this revival, and the Iris has not been
forgotten in our selections and disquisitions when herbaceous plants
have been the subjects of review. The subjoined figure of Iris
reticulata has been prepared in order to "popularize" a most beauti-
ful plant, and also to afford an excuse for recurring to a most
attractive theme. Therefore, in submitting the picture we crave
attention for a few remarks intended to indicate to the amateur the
several characteristics of the Iris family as garden plants, and the
measures that should be resorted to for their proper cultivation. In
order to convey the largest possible amount of useful information in
the fewest possible words, we shall abstain from eulogy, and dismiss
all general considerations in one brief paragraph. All the garden
species and varieties of Iris are hardy, or nearly so, and may there-
fore be grown in the open ground or in cool plant-houses, and
common pits and frames. They are all beautiful, but as compared
with the many fine herbaceous plants now at our command, are
certainly not all in an equal degree desirable for ornamental pur-
poses, as we shall indicate as we proceed. The choicer kinds that
flower early in the year belong properly to the alpine-house, or
" amateur's sanctum," such as was described at page 4 of last year's
volume of the Floral Would. In all cases the flowers are short-
lived, but they last long enough in a garden where a considerable
number of various kinds of ornamental plants are grown, and where
consequently a continuous succession of flowers is insured either in
the open ground or under glass. A few of the more robust-habited
Irises require the least possible amount of attention from the culti-
vator, for indeed if proper sites be chosen for them they will take
care of themselves. But the most delicate-habited, which happen,
also, generally speaking, to be the most beautiful, require careful
and methodical treatment ; and if planted and left to the care of
chance, will likely enough chance to disappear. We shall prescribe
the treatment for every one that we recommend, trusting solely to
our own experiences for the directions offered to the amateur who
takes an interest in these interesting plants.

The genus Iris may, for cultural purposes, be divided into two
great sections, which we shall term the Iikizomatous and the Tuberous.
In the first group we find those that extend themselves by fleshy
rhizomas near the surface ; in the second, those that form distinct
tubers at some depth below the surface, and that in habit very
closely resemble plants that have true bulbs. Respecting these two
VOL. vi. — NO. viii. 15

226 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

groups, it may be remarked that the rhizomatous are, as a rule, the
best fitted for a rough life, while the tuberous kinds require more
attention, though none of these latter are to be regarded as pre-
senting serious difficulties to the cultivator. When grown in the
open ground, all the species and varieties of Iris should be lifted
and replanted every three or four years, in fresh and suitable soil of
course, and at a depth consistent with their size and habit. The
amateur will do well to keep in mind a simple rule respecting the
two groups, for it has real practical value. The roots of the rhizo-
matous kinds tend upwards in growth, so that though in the first
instauce they may be planted a foot or so in depth, yet in two or
three years they will rise above the surface ; hence these require
periodical replanting, in order to place the roots at a proper depth.
The tuberous-rooted kinds tend downwards in growth, and therefore
when these are taken up they should be replanted less deep than
they were found ; for if allowed to penetrate deeper and deeper of
their own free will, they will in time have their roots so far removed
from air and sunshine that they will perish outright.

Fibrous-booted ok Hhizomatous Iris. — Iris Germanica is the
best type of this group, and takes rank as a florist's flower. We
feel bound to deliver an opinion against it as such, and we would go
so far as to say that, although a few clumps are admissible almost
anywhere, and are especially charming in a little cottage garden, its
proper place is in the front of the shrubbery and other parts of the
grounds that are not richly dressed. There are many beautiful and
fantastic varieties, numbering fully a hundred in all, but none
surpassing in effectiveness the common " blue flag," as it is called.
This plant requires a rich deep soil and a sunny situation to attain
full development, and those who grow the named varieties should of
course appropriate to them a good open border in a retired part of
the garden, as far removed from the principal display of flowers as
possible. They will, however, do pretty well under the shade of trees,
and have no objection to a sheltered nook in the immediate vicinity
of water. The following twenty-four varieties cf German Iris com-
prise the most distinct and showy, and constitute a good collection
for a beginner : — Arquinto, aurora, atroviolacea, Buriensis, chereau,
Duchesse de Nemours, Duchess of Sutherland, Edina, elegantissima,
Elfrida, Enchantress, Harlequin, Incomparable, Jacquesiana, Lord
Grey, marginaia, mirabilis, nigra, optima, Queen of Gipsies, Queen of
May, Romeo, Sampson, Sparta.

I. sambucina differs from the last in its more vigorous growth
and the nearly equal size of the segments of its dull purple flowers.
A good shrubbery plant.

I. variegata is closely related to I. Germanica ; the flowers are
yellow, netted with brown lines.

J. lutescens is a neat dwarf plant, which produces but one flower
on each stem. The usual colour of the flower is pale yellow netted
with violet, but occasional variations occur. This is scarcely hardy
enough for cold damp soils, but is quite hardy on dry soils in sunny
sheltered situations.

I. pallida is closely related to the German Iris, but differs in the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 227

flowers being stalkless and the tube sborter. It is of vigorous
habit, and a large clump covered with soft blue or bluish-white
flowers has a handsome appearance. A good shrubbery plant.

I. cristata. — A pretty dwarf plant, and scarcely hardy enough for
cold soils, but quite hardy in a sheltered and dry situation. The
flowers are blue variegated with yellow.

I. fcetidissima. — This is the " Gladwin" of the English woods, a
capital shrubbery plant, thriving best in deep rich soil in a shady
situation. The flowers are usually of a purple colour, with metallic
shades, but they vary considerably even on the same plant. The
variegated-leaved variety is an extremely handsome plant for pot
culture in the alpine-house.

I. graminea is a neat grasslike plant, with flowers that present
shades of white, purple, and yellow. A good rockery and woodland
plant, but not good enough for a first-rate border.

I. ymmila is the so-called " Crimean Iris ;" a small, neat, fast-
spreading, thrifty, and sportive plant, of which there are many distinct
varieties. This is good enough for the best herbaceous border, and
should have a dry sunny situation. A series of large clumps of
distinct colours would contribute in a most pleasing manner to the
enrichment of the border in the month of April, and the more dis-
tinctive varieties might be employed for edging beds of lilies and
other large groups of herbaceous plants. The following ten varieties
are all desirable, and constitute an extremely pretty collection : —
Pumila vera, atrocoerulea, alba, bicolor, ccerulea, gracilis, intermedia,
lutea, pallida, versicolor.

I. ruthenica. — Small plant with grasslike leaves, the flowers are
borne one on each stem, the colour deep purplish-blue. A charming
plant for rockwork, and for pot culture in the alpine-house. It
requires a light sandy soil and the most perfect drainage.

I. sibirica is somewhat robust in growth, and when out of flower
bears some resemblance to the day-ldy, owing to the narrowness of
its leaves. The flowers are blue, overlaid with lines of deep indigo.
A good shrubbery plant.

I. susiana. — This iris grows two feet high, and produces in April
flowers of great size, of a fine blue colour, richly netted with dark
brown lines. It is a fine garden plant, requiring a warm well-
drained soil and sheltered position. It is also worthy of pot culture,
and when in flower a noble adornment for the conservatory.

I. tenax. — A dwarf tough plant, producing very large flowers of a
deep purple colour, blotched with white and yellow. Suitable for
the rockery.

I. iberica. — A very dwarf, exceedingly neat plant, with glaucous
leaves and gigantic flowers, the upper half of which is snow-white,
the lower half most curiously veined with black and brown upon a
groundwork of dull yellow. This rare and magnificent iris was
admirably presented by Mr. Ware, of Hale .Farm Nurseries, Totten-
ham, at a meeting of the Eoyal Horticultural Society in April last
year. A remarkable fine rockery and pot plant, requiring a rich
light sandy soil and the most perfect drainage.

I. nudicaulis. — A dwarf, neat, fast-spreading plant, with broadish

22S THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

leaves and an abundance of showy flowers of a fine deep blue colour
richly netted with purple and yellow. A first-rate border plant,
preferable to I. Germanica on account of its smaller size, neat habit,
and abundant flowering.

J. stylosa. — A neat-growing narrow-leaved plant, producing ex-
quisitely beautiful pale blue flowers, which are delicately scented.
A first-rate iris for a warm sheltered border, but worthy of pot
culture, as it flowers early and is somewhat tender in constitution.

I. Kcempferi. — This is a fibrous-rooted plant in the way of
I. graminea, but more handsome, presenting several distinct and
fine varieties, yet comparatively useless in an English garden. It
is so far tender that a severe winter destroys it in the open ground,
and so far fastidious that it is a very bad pot plant. The enthusiast
in iris culture may hope to succeed by planting it in a warm corner
near a greenhouse furnace, or some similarly favourable spot, and in
Devon and Cornwall it may prove to be quite hardy. The following
are the best among many varieties : — Alex, von Humboldt, Von
Sieholcl, Rutherford Alcoclc, Souvenir de Vriese, Ernst Moritz Amdt,
Madame Helene von Siebold, Ida.

Tubekotjs-eooted Iris. — I. reticulata, an exceedingly neat and
somewhat rigid plant of dwarf, slender habit, with narrow leaves
and smallish flowers of the most exquisite beauty, the prevailing
colours brilliant purplish- violet, richly netted with bands of deep
gold-yellow and orange. Dr. Hooker says of it, " Though far from
the largest or most gorgeous, this is really one of the most beautiful
species of iris in cultivation; nothing can exceed the deep rich
violet of its perianth lobes and stigmata, or the delicious fragrance
of violet it exhales ; whilst the leaves are of a less coarse appearance
and texture than is usual in the genus." We know nothing of this
as a border plant, for in our cold damp soil it would simply perish
if planted out ; but it has long been one of the most valued gems
for the alpine-house, on account of its wondrously elegant and
sweet-scented flowers in early spring. It will grow freely in sandy
peat or sandy loam, and would probably thrive in sandy soil in a
sheltered part of a dry rockery.

I. tuberosa. — This is the " snake's-head " iris, a curiosity and a
beautiful dwaif-growing plant. The flowers are blue and green, far
from showy, but quaint and rich in character. It thrives in a warm
sandy loam or peat in a sheltered spot, and is well worth pot
culture. On our damp cold soil it is quite hardy if planted on a
prepared station, so as to be well drained, and with a good mixture
of loam, leaf-mould, and sand to root in, the clumps consisting of
about a dozen roots each.

I. xvphium, I. xipliioides. — The first of these is the " Spanish,"
the second the "English" iris. They are so closely related that
there can be no impropriety in bracketing them together. They
are peculiar plants, presenting curious swollen flower-buds long in
advance of flowers, and when full out making a most interesting
and beautiful display. The Spanish flowers about ten days in advance
of the English, and are scarcely so gay; but in respect of beauty
the two classes do not greatly dirler. There are no named varieties,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 229

but there might be hundreds, for in a bed of seedlings there will
not be found two alike, however large and full the bed may be. It
is generally understood that these irises require a well-prepared
sandy soil, but we find them thrive amazingly in our heavy loam if
they are but lifted every three years, to bring their roots nearer the
surface, and provide them with fresh soil. The best way to cultivate
these is to plant a considerable number in an open sunny spot — say
on a sloping bank in front of a greenhouse — and leave them undis-
turbed for three years ; then take them up in autumn, divide the
root3, deeply dig and manure the soil, and plant again. There will
be enough far two or three plantations when the roots are divided,
for they increase by the roots at a steady pace ; but the most enter-
taining way to multiply them is by means of seed sown as soon as
ripe. S. H.

GARDENING WITHOUT A GARDEN.

BY W. D. PRIOR, ESQ.

j[T first sight, this title might appear to involve a paradox.
Nevertheless, it is strictly true, that every person may
enjoy the luxury of a garden without a yard of ground.
He must, however, have at his command a place for
standing pots, such as a window sill, a balcony or portico,
or better still, an area or a flat. Possessing these, his fancy may
run riot in a constant succession of greenery and blossom, even in
the heart of London, provided there is a modicum of sunshine or a
breath of air. The gratification of this addition to urban pleasures,
will be duly appreciated by all who are capable of estimating the
difference between a look-out upon bright foliage and flowers, or
upon stucco fronts and brick walls ; and of comparing the fragrance
wafted through windows so adorned, with the natural whiff of the
streets. There will also be the pleasurable excitement which attends
the culture of flowers even on the most limited scale — which urges
" Cook " to assiduously tend her mammoth nettle geranium in the
kitchen window, or " Jeames " to cherish some stunted shrub in the
back area in a dilapidated tub. Indeed, there seems to be a uni-
versal instinct, developing itself in divers ways and under the most
adverse conditions, which recognizes intuitively the improved
appearance conferred by plant life equally on the mansion or the
cottage.

The gardening of the " sill," which is the chief basis for the
operations of out-door, as distinguished from in-door window garden-
ing, is neither an elaborate or offensive undertaking. In the present
day, nurseries abound in every suburb, from which numerous
varieties of beautiful and interesting plants and flowers may be
obtained for immediate use, and at a trifling cost. Thus, all the
labour and uncertainty of cultivation is spared ; the only trouble
connected with this sort of garden being the preservation in health

230 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of the plants that fill it, while in actual use ; when become passe
their places being easily filled up again by a fresh supply. A special
advantage therefore attends this style of plant decoration : it may
be commenced or given up at any period, and the stock being small,
its removal or dispersion is attended with little trouble or loss.

To begin with the furnishing of the " sill," there will be many
ways of doing this, according to its size, and the taste and means of
its designer. The first point, however, in any case will be to secure
the pots or boxes used from the possibility of slipping or being
blown off. To this end, a frame of some kind should be fixed out-
side round the sill, though to the lower windows in modern resi-
dences ornamental cross-bars are usually the rule. Where such are
not, a slender rod of iron will form a good frame, with a screen of
fine iron wire net inside. At a little distance from the wall a similar
rod may be used, following the shape of the window frame ; the
intervening space between that and the wall being also filled up
with wire net, after the manner of a trellis, on which to train up
climbers ; or an actual wooden trellis may be employed. Above
the window-frame, in the brickwork, hooks and staples should be
placed for the purpose of suspending hanging baskets filled with
trailers. We shall thus have an arrangement for the cultivation of
various interesting and ornamental subjects — climbers, trailers, and
pot plants.

In dealing with such a garden as here described, it will add much
to the health and vigour of its tenant?, and prolong their lasting
qualities, if moss be packed between and on the surface of the pots,
thereby preserving moisture, and protecting them from the scorching
sun or cold winds. At each side of the " ledge," where upright
rods or trellis-work is fixed, climbers may be placed in large pots,
and trained up. Good and inexpensive kinds for this purpose may
be selected from the smaller variegated ivies, when it is resolved to
adopt an evergreen or permanent decoration : deciduous varieties
are Canary creeper, Cobea scandens, Convolvulus, Clematises, and
Tropscolums of all sorts, all of which will thrive in pots with small
demands upon attention or cultural skill. Wire baskets should
always first be padded with moss, whether the plants are grown in
pots or in natural soil. For these, there are likewise hosts of
appropriate occupants, such as Sedum Sieboldii, Tradescantia zebrina,
the old-fashioned " Mother of Thousands," ivy-leaved geraniums,
fuchsias in their season, " Love-lies-bleeding ; " where a drooping
crimson maroon-coloured contrast is required, Tropa3olums, Loniceras,
particularly the variegated Honeysuckle, and the like. While con-
sidering subjects of this habit, it may be well to call attention to
Passion-flowers, Virginia creeper, and AVisteria, as admirable area
plants where space, and aspect, and atmosphere exist, though too large
for small balconies or windows.

There are so many artistic contrivances as receptacles for plants
in the present day, that there is little need for falling back upon the
old-fashioned wooden box, once the most ambitious piece of furni-
ture upon the window-sill. This used to be taken to a nurseryman
to be filled every year, and its advent was an event in many a town

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 231

household. The place of this is now supplied by numerous beauti-
ful fabrics in various forms aud dimensions. Those of siliceous
material are by far the strongest and most durable ; and, when
dirty or weather-stained, their freshness may be restored by a thin
cream or stone-coloured wash, not forgetting a primary application
of soap and water to remove grit.

The porcelain pots or jardinets are the most cleanly and elegant,
some of them being also works of art of the highest order. They
require considerable taste and judgment to fill them to advantage,
their brilliant colouis and ornate patterns having a tendency to
make them principals instead of simple accessories, and to kill the
flowers, unless ingeniously harmonized or contrasted therewith ;
indeed, they may be termed too ornamental in themselves, and are
only suitable for positions of pretension. Rustic boxes may also
be constructed, very effective, without much outlay. Fir cones,
crooked lengths of wood, oak varnish, and a wooden framework, are
the chief materials required. Virgin oak, an article recently intro-
duced, may also be employed in the construction of ornaments in
this style. A special point must be recognized in all contrivances
for the reception of plants, which is, ample provision for thorough
drainage. By observing this, it is possible to utilize those orna-
mental vases which often stand at the side of doors or steps. Free-
growing climbers grown in these might be taken up the house on
such light iron rods as have been previously spoken of. A centre
mass of colour contrast, where space permits, may be produced by
sinking several small pots in a single large one — this improves the
effect by breaking up the stiff appearance of a row of equal sized
pots. It is quite unnecessary to particularize objects for furnishing
the window-ledge, because the whole array of hardy plants and
flowers, especially the bedders, changing with almost every week,
are always to be obtaiued when wanted, and at such a trifling outlay.

Balconies and porticos, as affording greater space, should be
chiefly treated with evergreens and shrubs ; but here, again, circum-
stances must be the arbiter of decoration. However, climbers may be
trained along: and through the iron railings, and trailers allowed to
hang down. If there is sufficient room, flower-stands also may be
placed in fit positions amongst the shrubs ; and in a cool aspect a
miniature fernery will not be beyond the operator's reach. Here,
again, fragrance from leaf or flower should always be largely intro-
duced so as to extend to the interior of the dwelling.

" How to utilize a town area" has been previously treated upon
in former pages ; many of the general principles there laid down
are equally applicable to the out-door wiudow garden. But
happy the possessor of an easily accessible " flat ;" to him, if air
and light be propitious, and smoke be not too adverse, garden and
greenhouse are alike open. He can grow his own flowers in lieu of
buying them, he can sow seeds, propagate by cuttings, and bloom
the fully-matured plant, enjoying to a considerable extent the
pleasures of a veritable rus in itrbo.

232 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

INTERMEDIATE STOCKS FOR THE CONSERVATORY.

AVINGr been successful in growing these for many years
past, I have come to the conclusion that this beautiful
stock is not grown one-half so extensively as it should
be. Apart from the beauty of the flowers, their
delicious fragrance alone is quite sufficient to entitle
them to a more fuller recognition of their merits. Those who fail
to have a good supply in their conservatory through the spring
months miss one of the charms of that season. We usually grow
about six dozen, three for growing in a little warmth to flower early,
and the other three dozen lor grow ing in a cold frame to succeed them.
The seed is sown rather thinly in a flat box on the 1st of August,
and placed in a frame or greenhouse until it is nicely up, when
it is stood out of doors until the plants are large enough to handle.
Some good turfy loam is chopped up roughly and mixed with about
one-third of its bulk uf rotten dung. After this is done, a suffi-
cient number of 4S-sized pots are filled with the compost, after
placing a few crocks in the bottom for drainage, and three plants
put into each. The soil should be pressed rather firmly, for the
plants do not root so freely and grow so well when it is loose as they
do when it is rather firm. After all are potted, they are placed out
of doors in an exposed posiiion until frost sets in, when they are
removed to a cold pit, and protected from the severest of the weather.
Those intended to be grown in a little warmth are taken to the
greenhouse early in January, and then about the middle of February
are placed in a heat which ranges from fifty to sixty degrees. They
are syringed occasionally to keep down the red-spider, and watered
with manure-water about every other time, and I find that it in-
creases the size of the spikes immensely. The others are placed in
the greenhouse, which is rather warmer than the cold frame, about
the end of February. By these means I manage to add very mate-
rially to the beauty of the conservatory under my charge at a very
small expense, and in many instances outvie my neighbours who
spend a lot of money upon hyacinths and other bulbs. We also
have a two-light turf-pit, in which a bed of light and rich soil is
made and planted with the plants left, after sufficient have been put
in pots. Plenty of air is admitted through the winter, and in the
spring they are taken up with nice ball of soil adhering to the roots,
and planted in a large circular bed near the drawing-room windows.
When this is done carefully they flower well, and the bed excites
more admiration than the happiest combination of bedding plants I
have ever had. It is true, it delays the planting-out of summer
occupants ; but as sufficient are always grown in 48's for plant-
ing this bed, so as to produce an immediate effect, this is of no
great consequence. This could not be well carried out all over the
garden, but for beds which are close to the windows it is worth a
moment's thought as to whether it cannot be managed. The three
colours of white, rose, and scarlet are grown, and Mr. Smith, of the
Hornsey Road, has a beautiful new lilac-flowered variety, which I
shall obtain at the first opportunity. J. T.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 23'

A NOTE ON CROPPING AND THINNING GRAPE VINES.

[F the Floral Wobld has many readers as thoroughly
interested as the writer in grape-growing-, which is one
of the most fascinating of all pursuits connected with the
garden, no excuse will be needed for the insertion of
some remarks thereupon. My experience extends no
further back than five years ; but during that time, I have not only
observed closely, but have also read all the works upon the subject
I could procure, and have looked in vain for instructions upon two
important points : viz., the crop it is safe to take from a vine ; and
directions for thinning the berries. Granting that it is difficult to
give definite rules, on account of the vines being of different degrees
of strength, having larger or less surface for foliage, or being planted
in borders of different sizes, I may state that my experience has led
me to the following practice on these points : —

Pirst, as to cropping. One lateral only should be grown on
each spur on a stout rod (five years from planting, seven years
from bud) ; if forty laterals can be counted, it is safe to leave
twenty good sized bunches, that is bunches measuring from eight to
twelve inches long from the shoulder to the extreme point. With
regard to thinning, varieties such as Black Ham burghs, Mill Hill
Hamburghs, Buckland Sweetwater, and White Prontignans, may
be safely thinned when the size of small peas ; and my practice is
this : — For two inches at bottom of bunch, leave one berry only on
a stem ; for the next two inches, two berries may be left ; the next two
inches, three berries. Above these come the shoulders, to be treated
in like manner ; viz, one, two, and three berries according to length.
If these rules are observed, the bunch should not be touched again
until the berries are the size of large peas, when the shoulders and
the bunches of three berries should be properly tied out with
narrow shreds of strong bast. Do not use lead wire ; take care not to
raise the shoulders above the horizontal. After this, nothing should
touch these precious berries until gently taken by the stalk and
pressed to the lips of the fortunate individual who is to feast upon
the delicious morsel. Lady Downes, the Muscats, and Trentham
Black I find must be left longer before thinning, it being more
difficult to discern which berries will come to maturity. The two
former appear to have a habit of not stoning properly, which I
suppose to be caused by want of sufficient heat at flowering-time,
in consequence of their being grown with the more hardy kinds.
These should not be thinned so early as the others, but they must be
thinned upon the same plan, and at one operation. By this method
of procedure, not only are nice clean-looking bunches produced,
as when thinned early the young stems die away without decaying,
but all the sap is utilized, and large berries perfectly covered with
their lovely bloom are secured.

: Thanking you for guidance upon this and many other subjects,
I would yet put an inquiry to grape-growers with respect to shank-
ing. For two or three years out of my five, shanking of a few

234 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

berries has occurred. I have not always been so free in removing
the bunches as now, and over-cropping may have been the cause ; but
has not the heavy syringing which is customary in many vineries
something to do with it, through the moisture laying upon aud
rotting the stems of the berries. Before the present season, my
vines were drenched two or three times a day, except when in bloom ;
but in consequence of a remark in your valuable work, not a drop of
water has reached the foliage or berries this year, and the only
moisture in the house has been produced by wetting the tile flooring
several times a day.

I may add, much to my own satisfaction, that my vinery, started
the middle of March, and pushed on very gradually, with abundance
of ventilation during the day and a little at night, now presents a
very handsome appearance, being well furnished with healthy foliage
and fiuely-shaped bunches, varying from eight to twelve inches in
length, on which the berries (now about half developed) are free
from rust, finger marks, or any other disfigurement. This is their
present state, but I must not " crow before I am out of the wood,"
and every grape grower knows the most serious disasters generally
appear after this stage. If my remarks are likely to prove useful to
others, or elicit information, please insert at your convenience.
Biiital Road, Birmingham. Amateur.

TODEA WILKESIANA.

HE beautiful miniature TreeEernto which we have now
much pleasure in directing the attention of our readers,
was first discovered in Ovolan, one of the Fiji Islands,
by the botanist attached to an exploring expedition,
sent out by the United States of America. It is allied
to the beautiful Todea Fraseri, which is now known as one of the
most beautiful of filmy ferns ; but it is of larger growth and has an
arborescent habit. The trunks of the native specimens are said to
range from eighteen to twenty inches in height, and about an inch
and a half in diameter, and are usually surmounted\vith about
twelve broad lanceolate fronds, two feet in length, and most elegant
in outline. The parent plant (of which the accompanying illustra-
tion is a most excellent portrait) in the possession of Messrs.
Veitch and Sons, of the Royal Exotic JNursery, King's Road,
Chelsea, to whom the honour of the introduction to English gardens
of this fine fern is due, has a trunk about twelve inches in length,
and an inch in diameter, which, surmounted by its elegant plumy
fronds, gives it an indescribably charming appearance. It was
found principally growing in the humid forests of the island referred
to above; and like its congeners Todea Fraseri and Todea (Leii-
topteris) sujjerba, will under cultivation require a close damp
situation in the fern-house, unless it is grown, as it should be, in a
glass case, in the same manner as the above-mentioned species are
usually cultivated. The present species is now in course of distri-
bution by Messrs. Veitch and Sons, and is certainly well worthy
of a place in the most select collection of stove ferns.

W

fc \

«

236 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

FOEMING AND PLANTING THE AMERICAN GAEDEN.

BY ROBERT OUBRIDGE,
Church Walk Nursery, Stoku Newington, W.

JUDICIOUSLY arranged and well furnished American
garden presents such a glorious appearance during the
early summer months, and has such a bright and cheer-
ful look at all other periods, that the cost of its for-
mation will always be well repaid. Hitherto, American
plants, such as the hardy rhododendrons and azaleas, have not
perhaps received so much attention as they deserve, through its
being supposed that they will not thrive iu anything but sandy peat ;
whereas they will grow freely and flower abundantly in almost any
light and friable soil.

The situation selected for the formation of the American garden,
should be in a rather secluded part of the grounds, so that visitors
need not go through it excepting when the plants are in bloom.
But when the cultivation of American plants is limited to a few
beds upon the lawn, they should be planted at the farthest point
from the windows of the dwelling-house, and the dark foliage will
form an admirable background to the beds of flowering plants. A
picturesque arrangement of the beds with winding walks between
them is undoubtedly the best that could be devised when the
American garden is shut in from the other parts of the ground, but
a group of circular, oblong, or oval beds, surrounded with a raised
bank of evergreens, will be sufficient for small gardens, and in
many cases the most desirable plan to adopt, because of its simplicity
and the small amount of expense attached to the preparation of the
ground and the formation of the beds.

When the beds are upon the lawn, and form part of the general
arrangements, they must of course conform in size and shape to
those devoted to the ordinary bedding and flowering plants.
In low-lying and damp situations, it will be advantageous to
raise beds nine or twelve inches above the level, to prevent the
possibility of the roots perishing through being submerged in
water during the winter months. These plants, however, require an
abundance of moisture at the roots when making new growth, and
therefore the bed must not be elevated at all, unless the condition
of the sub-soil during the winter mouths is such as to render it
imperatively necessary. Generally speaking, a layer of broken
stones or brickbats, to a depth of twelve or fifteen inches under the
soil of which the bed consists, will be sufficient to keep the roots safe.
In the preparation of the beds, the first steps it will be necessary
to take will be to remove the soil to a depth of three feet, if the sub-
soil is of a retentive character, and two feet if it is sufficiently open to
absorb the superfluous moisture. The extra twelve inches is for
the drainage, which may consist of any loose rubble, such as broken
stones or brickbats. The drainage should be put in with a certain
amount of care to insure its being of one depth, and one degree of

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 237

solidity over the bottom. The best compost that could possibly be
devised for filling the beds with, may be prepared by well incor-
porating together two parts each of turfy loam and fibry peat, and
one part each of leaf-mould and road or river sand. Where peat
cannot be had without a considerable expense being incurred, a
mixture consisting of two parts loam, and half a part each of leaf-
mould, decayed cow-dung, and sand, should be employed. A depth
of two feet will be quite sufficient for all but extra large specimens ;
and previous to filling in the soil, put a layer of thin turves over the
rubble if it is considered desirable to place a layer in the bottom of
the bed. Unless the loose material is covered with a layer of turf or
some other covering, a considerable proportion of the finer portion
of the soil will, previous to its becoming consolidated, run down into
the crevices and impede the escape of the surplus water after the
heavy rains or artificial waterings.

The month of August is the most suitable for planting rhodo-
dendrons ; but they may, in common with other American plants, be
planted in the two following months with every reasonable prospect
of success. A few liberal waterings, after the beds are planted,
will be necessary if the weather happens to set in dry, and a sprinkle
overhead in the evening of bright sunny days will be of immense
service in enabling them to become established. In planting mixed
beds, the rhododendrons should be put in the centre, the azaleas
next to them, and a i'ew dwarf-growing subjects, such as the hardy
heaths and androraedas, round the outside, to hide the bare stems
of the azaleas when they are leafless during the winter months.
AVhen once established, they practically take care of themselves,
for beyond the removal of a branch now and then that is taking
the lead of others on the same plant, they require no pruning or
training. In dry seasons, soaking the beds thoroughly with water
once or twice a week until the completion of the young growth,
will be of immense assistance; but if the watering is continued
after the young growth is made, the plants will probably make a
second growth, instead of forming flower-buds, and in the majority
of seasons they will be able to take care of themselves. The
varieties of llhododendron pouticum are cheap and effective; but
they are decidedly inferior to the following hybrids, which comprise
the best in cultivation, with the exception of a few of the newest,
which are at present too expensive to include in a list of this kind : —
Alarm, Album elegans, Album grandiflorum, Archimedes, Atrosan-
guineum, Barclayanum, Blandijanum, Brayanum, Bylsianum, Charles
Dickens, Concessum, Omentum, Delicatissima, Elfrida, Everestianum,
Fastuosum florepleno, Francis Dickson, Guido, Hogarth, John
Spencer, John Waterer, Lady Armstrong, Lady Clermont, Lady
Eleanor Ga'hcart, Lady Francis Grossley, Lord John Russell,
Lucidum, Maculatum superbum, Magnum Bonum, Mdnei, Minnie,
Mrs. John Glutton, Mrs. John Waterer, Mrs. B. S. Holford, Mrs.
William Bovill, Ne Flits Ultra, Nero, Perfection, Purity, Boseum
ehgans, Boseum grandiflorum, Standard of Flanders, Stella, isher-
u-oodianum, The Queen, The Warrior, Titian, Victoria, William
Austin, William Downing.

238 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The "best of the hardy or Ghent Azaleas are : — Amoena,
Aniens, Aurantia major, Bessie Holdaway, ■ Calendulacea eximia,
Coccinea major, Coccinea speciosa, Cuprea, Guprea splendens, Elector,
Elegans, Florentine, Fulgida, Gloria Mundi, Inviclissima, Maria
Dorothe, Maria Verschaffelt, Mirabilis, Nancy Waterer, Prince
Frederick, Speciosa atrosanguinea, Straminea, Sulphurea, Van
Houtte, Viscocephala. Few people are aware of the brilliant effect
these plants are capable of producing, when planted in masses, in
prominent positions in the pleasure grounds and shrubbery gardens.

For belts and marginal lines round the outside of beds filled
with azaleas and rhododendrons, the following selection of dwarf-
growing plants will be useful : — Andromeda fioribunda, A. formosa,
A. pulverulenta, Dap/me cneorum majus, Erica cinerea alba grandi-
flora, E. c. atropurpurea, E. c. coccinea, E. c. rubra, E. herbacea
carnea, E. vagans carnea, E. v. rubra, E. v. alba, Menziesia poli-
folia alba, 31. p. atropurpurea, Kalmia angustifolia glauca, K.
a. ruba, K. glauca, K. g. svperba, K. latifolia major splendens, K. I.
inyrtifolia, Ledum buxifolmm, L. thymifolium, Perneltya mucronata,
Folygala chamcebuxus, Vaccinium frondosum venustum, V. ligustri-
folium.

To render the American garden bright and cheerful at all
seasons of the year, a few clumps of the choicer kinds of Liliums
and the showier Gladioli should be intermixed with the other plants.
From four to eight bulbs should be planted in each clump.

THE BEGINNER IN GRAPE- GEO WING.— No. VI.

BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

THE MANAGEMENT OE TOT VINES.

HE management of vines grown and fruited in pots
requires more skill and attention than those planted
out in a properly- prepared border; yet, where early
grapes are in request and the space available for grape
growing limited, they are most valuable, because with
their aid a supply of early grapes may be had without starting the
permanent vines, in the house from which the main crop is obtained
very early in the season. 'Vines in pots are also most valuable for
table and sideboard decoration, and a considerable number are
grown here for these purposes.

Until after they are put in pots larger than six inches in diameter,
the directions given lor the management of young vines grown ex-
pressly for planting out, when speaking of their propagation, applies
with equal force to those intended for pot culture. Therefore,
to avoid repetition, we will commence with their management,

THE FLORAL AYORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 239

after they are established in the sized pots referred to above.
After arriving at this stage, they require two shifts only ; the
first into ten-inch pots, and the second into others three inches
larger in diameter, which are quite large enough for all ordinary
purposes. It is necessary to observe, in connection with this point,
that at all stages of their growth the vines must be repotted im-
mediately the roots begin to run round the sides of the pot, and
on no account must they be allowed to become pot-bound; for when
the supply of food is exhausted the bark soon becomes set, and the
canes commence to ripen prematurely ; and when the young rods
begin to ripen before they are half-grown, they seldom make canes
sufficiently strong to produce a good crop of grapes the following
season. It is from checks of this description, and letting the plants
suffer from dryness at the root, that many growers fail in growing
the canes to a fruiting size the first season, and require two years
from the time of striking the eyes before they can look for any fruit.
The whole of my vines are grown to a fruiting size the first season,with
the exception of about a couple of dozen for starting in the begin-
ning of October for the earliest crop ; and this batch is raised from
eyes put in a month later than that specified above, and the vines
are cut down the following autumn, root-pruned, and repotted.

Vines in pots will seldom carry and finish off well more than
from six to eight bunches, and to do that not more than eight feet
length of rod is required ; therefore all the wood beyond that length
has to be cut away. Now a very common practice, and one which
cannot be too strongly condemned, is to allow the vines to grow
unchecked, and then at the winter pruning to cut them back to the
length required. By this system the whole of the best buds and
those most likely to produce good bunches are cut away, and small
weakly bunches are the natural result. To do away with the neces-
sity of having to cut away the best portion of the wood, and at the
same time to strengthen as much as possible that portion whereon
the fruit is expected, considerable attention must be paid to summer
pruning. The vines should be stopped three or four times during
the growing season. Those growing with ordinary vigour are
stopped at every three feet, and those which may happen to be
rather weak are stopped at two feet. When vines are pinched back
so closely as this, some little care must be exercised in dealing with
the laterals, or there will be a risk of the main buds starting. But
the safest course to pursue is to let the laterals run out with from
three to four leaves each before the first stopping, and afterwards
stop the second crop of laterals at one leaf from the point where
they emanate from the original laterals ; and it should be borne in
mind not to stop the laterals and the main growth at the same time.
It is hardly necessary to say that attention must be paid to keeping
the plants regularly supplied with water when in full growth, to
prevent the wood ripening off before it has reached its full size.
The importance of training the young vines close to the glass, and
giving them the advantage of a full exposure to all the light and air
consistent with their tender and delicate condition, so as to keep
them as short-jointed and hard as possible, cannot be too strongly

240 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

advocated ; and here they are trained to the roof of the pine-stove,
or between the vines in one of the early vineries. With ordinary
management the growth will be completed by Ihe end of August,
and the vines ready for going out of doors the first or second week
in September.

When the young vines are taken out of doors, train them to a
south wall, and allow them to remain there for about six weeks, and
keep the soil rather dry, to check the growth and thoroughly ripen
the wood. The stock of young vines intended for starting in the
middle of October of the following year are cut back to a couple of
eyes some time in December, taken out of the pots, and after the
ball of soil is reduced, root-pruned, and repotted into ten-inch pots,
and started in a temperature of about 50°. These should be
shifted into the fruiting-pots as soon as they are nicely rooted, and
the same attention paid to stopping as already advised. At the
first potting these should be kept down, so that the buds are just
above the surface of the soil ; and at the second shift the base of
the young growth should be just below the surface, which will
enable it to emit a nice lot of young roots into the fresh soil. Great
stress is laid by some cultivators upon the advantage derived from
the use of bottom-heat in growing the young vines, but they are
assuredly better without it. The bottom-heat encourages the pro-
duction of thick fleshy roots, which frequently perish through the
resting season, and are therefore of no assistance to the vines in
bringing the crops to perfection. These will complete their growth
and be ready for taking out of doors towards the end of July, which
gives them a good rest before starting. This is the only reason for
two seasons being required to grow them in, as plants can be grown
plenty large enough in the first season, and, in fact, I prefer the
one-year vines for the other crops ; but there is not sufficient time
for them to have a thorough rest between completing their growth
and the time for starting. It is of very little use to expect much
success unless the vines are thoroughly rested.

The next subject that must engage our attention is the fruiting
process. As already stated, three batches of pot-vines are started
here : the first lot in the middle of October, to furnish grapes in
February, which come in just before our earliest vinery ; the other
two batches are grown for table decoration, and started at intervals
of a month each. The vines are pruned and washed, and some
eight-inch pots, with large holes in the bottom, are placed on the
top of the soil (passing the rod through the hole in the bottom),
and filled w ith the same soil as the vines are potted in. These are
soon filled with roots, and are of great service in assisting the vines
with a fresh supply of food. When this is finished, the vines are
placed in a temperature of 45° by night and 50° by day, and
the pots partly plunged in a gentle bottorn-heat of about 70°.
and frequently syringed. The walls and paths are also sprinkled to
keep the atmosphere moist. In a fortnight after the vines are
placed in heat, the temperature should be allowed to range between
50° and 55° by night, with a proportionate rise by day. This
should be continued for another fortnight, and increased to 65°,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 241

which must be continued until the beginning of January, when
the night temperature should range from 70° to 75°, accord-
ing to the weather, and that of the day from 75° to 80\
Syringing overhead must be discontinued when the young buds are
a couple of inches long ; but the atmospheric moisture must be
regularly kept up until the berries begin to colour, with the ex-
ception of when the grapes are in bloom ; at that season it must be
kept rather dry, but not so thoroughly dry as we frequently see
practised.

The bunches should be thinned immediately the berries are large
enough, and not more than six or eight bunches allowed to each
vine, as these numbers are as many as an ordinary vine will finish
off well. When they are first brought into the house, those iutended
for training up the roof should be brought down horizontallv, to
equalize the flow of sap and insure the bottom buds breaking
strongly. Those intended for dinner-table decoration are fixed to
trainers, made with stout iron rods, about three feet high, and with
three prongs at the bottom, made to fit inside the small pot, and a
ring of stout wire on the top, forming a flat trellis of two feet across,
to which the vines are trained. It is not necessary to bend these
down, as all the buds on the trellis will be on the same level. The
buds which break up the stem should be removed as fast as they
make their appearance.

The compost in which the vines are grown consists of good turfy
loam chopped up roughly, and mixed with two pecks of partly-
decayed horse-droppings, and half a peck of " inch " bones, to each
barrowfal. "When in full growth, we give them weak manure-water
about twice a week, and clear water when required. The vines must
not be allowed to suffer for want of water, for when that happens
more mischief is done than is commonly supposed, and I have known
more than one total failure ensue from this cause. Some growers
allow them to become so dry that a large proportion of the roots
perish, and then wonder why the grapes shank, or are deficient in
colour. Too much water is quite as injurious as not enough ; the
vines, therefore, should have no more than is sufficient to keep them
in a free, healthy, growing condition. The whole of the pot- vines
here are started in a house used for growing pine-suckers through
the summer, and when sufficiently advanced to bear the heat of the
fruiting pinery are removed into that structure, where they remain
until the grapes are ripe. "We thus obtain a good lot of grapes
with no expenditure for fuel beyond what is required for starting
them.

Destroying Ants. — Powdered chalk has heen recommended for driving
ants out of melon frames. The chalk should be sprinkled over the surface of
the bed. Thousands may be destroyed in a very short space of time with the aid of
a sponge and a little powdered "lump" sugar. A rather course sponge is preferable,
and it should be placed in an earthenware saucer, such as flower-pots are stood in,
and then sprinkle all over with finely-powdered sugar. Stand the saucer upon the
soil, and in a very short time the ants will swarm into the sponge, and may then be
destroyed by shaking them out of the sponge into a vessel of hot water. Replace the
sponge in the saucer, shake more sugar over it, and replace in the frame again, and
repeat every morning until the frame is cleared of these pests. We cannot possiblv
answer letters privately.

VOL. VI. — KO. VIII. 1G

212 TEE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

CAPE COWSLIPS.

BY THOMAS TBTTSSLEE,
Head Gardener, High Leigh, Hoddesden, Herts.

HE pretty pendulous-flowered Lachenalias are easily
grown, readily propagated, and moreover continue in
flower such a length of time, that in directing attention
to them I feel bound to express my surprise that they
are not more generally cultivated in small gardens. All
those at present in cultivation are useful for forming edgings to
flower-beds in prominent positions, which are filled with hyacinths,
and other bulbous plants that flower in spring. But they are
most valuable for the decoration of the conservatory and indoor
apartments, because they are so neat in growth, showy in appear-
ance, and are not quickly affected by draughts, and other injurious
influences to which flowering plants, placed in indoor apartments,
are usually exposed.

A very few words will suffice to show the manner in which they
should be managed to produce robust plants and large well-deve-
loped spikes of flowers. Eor flowering early, pot a batch of bulbs
either in the second or third week in August. To succeed the first
batch, and to bloom without the aid of artificial heat, September is
a capital time for giving them their annual shift. In putting them
in fresh pots, first take them out of the pots, and then separate the
large bulbs, which may be expected to flower, from the small offsets
which have formed round them during the past season. After this
is done, pot them at the rate of six bulbs to each six-inch pot, in
good fibry loam two parts, and one part each of rotten dung and
leaf-mould, with a sprinkling of silver-sand. Bury the bulbs about
an inch below the surface, and fill the soil in rather firm. When
the potting is completed, place the pots in a cold frame, and apply
just sufficient soft water to keep the soil moist, and thus enable the
bulbs to make a good start. When the young leaves make their
appearance above the surface of the soil, it will be well to place a
portion of the stock in the greenhouse, and from thence, after a few
weeks' stay, into the forcing-house, or other structure, where they
can have the aid of a gentle warmth, with the advantage of plenty
of light and air. The foliage of Lachenalias soon becomes drawn if
they are placed in close confinement, or a high temperature ; there-
fore they should be kept near the glass, where they can enjoy the
full advantage of the light, and just sufficient air to keep the growth
dwarf and sturdy, and only have sufficient warmth to maintain a
steady growth. The second lot should be taken to the greenhouse
a fortnight or three weeks later, and not have any artificial heat ;
and a third batch to succeed these may be left in the frame until
they begin to come into flower. By this arrangement a continuous
supply can be kept up for a period of about three months.

Water must be applied freely after the pots are filled with roots,
and the growth has made considerable progress above ground. With

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 243

the compost prepared in the manner here described, very little
manure-water will be required, and, in unskilful hands, its use had
better be dispensed with. When the flowers begin to fade, the plants
should be removed back to the cold frame, and have the lights drawn
over them in wet or frosty weather. Allow them to remain there until
the growth is completed, and then the water supply must be lessened in
a gradual manner, and finally withheld. As the foliage dies away, place
the pots on their sides in Mich a manner as will prevent any water
reaching the soil. Frequently cultivators stand the pots out of
doors without attention until they are repotted, and the bulbs, for
lack of a sufficient supply of moisture before they have finished the
season's growth, are dried up, and, as a matter of course, do not
attain their full size. Or, on the other baud, in a rainy seasorj,
they continue growing too long, and are, therefore, unable to become
thoroughly matured before the time arrives for starting them a^ain.
Hence the cause of the failures we hear of occasionally. The pots
with the bulbs at rest can be stacked upon their sides, either indoors
or out. In the latter case, they should have the advantage of a
shady position, for it is by no means advisable to expose the bulbs
to the scorching influence of a summer's sun. The young offsets
can be planted thickly in the same sized pots, and they will make
strong flowering bulbs for the following spring.

There is yet another way in which these plants can he turned
to account for indoor decoration. Instead of putting the bulbs in
pots in the manner advised in the foregoing remarks, take a wire
basket of medium size, and place a layer of moss entirely over the
wirework, to keep the soil in its proper place. Put a layer of soil
over the bottom of the basket, about an inch in thickness, and at a
distance of three inches apart, insert the bulbs in the soil, with the
crown or growing point downwards ; then proceed to fill the basket
with soil, and as each three-inch layer of soil is added, put a row of
bulbs entirely round the basket at a distance of about two anif a-half
inches from each othar, with the crown facing towards the wire-
work. When the basket is filled, plant the surface in the ordim-uy
manner. Keep the basket in the frame with the soil just moist until
the young growth begins to peep through the wire-work, and then
suspend it in the greenhouse, and wafer more liberally. In a short
time the whole basket will be enveloped in a mass of foliage, and the
effect when the plants are in bloom will be indescribably beautiful.
A basket of Lachenalias, grown as here advised, was exhibited at
one of the spring meetings of the Koyal Horticultural Society at
South Kensington, and it was, as it well deserved, much admired
and excited a considerable amount of interest, as few indeed were
those who saw it who were aware of the adaptability of these plants
for cultivation in suspended baskets.

The best way to grow them for outdoors is to pofc them in much
the same way as advised above, and then grow them in the cold
frame, with plenty of air to keep the foliage and flower-stems dwarf
so that they will be able to resist all weathers when turned out.
The simplest way of displaying them in the open air is to plunge
the pots in the beds or borders just before the flowers are fully

244 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

expanded. Treated this way, they are unequalled for forming edgings
to hyacinths and tulip beds. It will not do to push them on in a
high temperature, or keep them in a close atmosphere ; or, as soon
as they are taken out of doors, the foliage will be blown about, and
the flower-spikes will probably be injured past recovery.

The following selection comprises the best and most distinct sorts
at present in cultivation, but there are a few others well worth
growing where room can be found for them : —

Laehenalia tricolor. — Leaves and flower-stems beautifully spotted ;
the latter average in well-grown specimens about eight or nine inches
in height, with between twelve and eighteen flowers on each spike ;
the colours are bright red, yellow, and green, which undergo several
changes as the flowers advance in age.

L. aurea. — A remarkably fine kind, with large bright yellow
flowers.

L. pallida. — A rather strong grower, with flower-spikes about a
foot in height ; the flowers are large in size, and of a pale blush
colour ; wonderfully good.

L. htieola. — Like the preceding, a strong grower, with beau-
tifully spotted leaves and flower-stems ; the latter grow about nine
inches in height, bearing fine large flowers of a pale yellow colour.

L. pendvJa. — The flower-stems of this beautiful kind grow to a
height of about twelve inches, which, with the foliage, are beautifully
spotted ; a free grower, with fine large flowers, which are bright red,
37ellow, and green in colour.

DAHLIAS.— No. IV.

BY JOHN WALSH.
PREPARING THE BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION.

fiE have now arrived at a critical stage in the growth of
the Dahlia, and the success or otherwise which will
attend the cultivator's efforts will depend upon the
manner in which the blooms are prepared for the
exhibition table. One of the greatest enemies the
cultivator has to contend with, is the earwigs, for they abound every-
where, and unless they are kept under by trapping they will do an
immense amount of mischief; even if they are reduced in number
to the lowest possible minimum, the blooms must be carefully pro-
tected, for one insect is quite sufficient to disfigure and render unfit
for exhibition a very large number of blooms. Several devices
within the last twenty years have been introduced for the purpose
of trapping earwigs ; but it is a questionable matter whether the
trap of flower-pot and moss has been surpassed. At all events,
nearly all the "leading growers for exhibition use no other trap, and
by its aid keep this troublesome pest in subjection. The usual plan
for preparing the traps is to fill flower-pots, five inches in diameter,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

245

about half full of dry moss, aud then, to place them bottom upwards
upon the stakes supporting the growth. The end of the stakes will
prevent the moss from falling out of the pot, and the earwigs will
congregate in the moss during the daytime. Then if the pots are
examined every morning, soon after eight o'clock, all that have
taken refuge in the moss can be destroyed by shaking them into a
vessel of hot water. A large number of pots may be examined in a
very short space of time by taking the pot in one hand and holdiug
it over the water, and then drawing the moss out with the other, and
giving it a sharp shake to dislodge the earwigs; it rnay then be
returned to the pot and the latter replaced upon the stake. The
prudent cultivator will not depend wholly upon the pots placed
upon the stakes, but will put others bottom upwards upon
the ground close to the stem of the plant, and elevate one side
sufficiently to afford means of ingress. Ha}r, or indeed any dry
material of a similar character, may be employed instead of
moss if more convenient. Snails are not capable of doing much
harm after the plants are full-grown, but they should be looked
after sharply and caught by laying cabbage leaves on the surface
of the border, as they will take shelter underneath and may then
be readily caught and destroyed. The only other insect pests that
are likely to do much harm are thrips, and it is only in dry seasons
that they will be found troublesome, and the best means of keeping
them in check is by frequent washings of the foliage with the garden
engine or syringe. The protection of the flowers from the above-
mentioned pests and the vicissitudes of the weather must now
engage our attention, and we must at once consider the most desir-
able means of effecting the desired object. First of all, a number
of stakes of the desired height; must be procured, and also a number
of boards, seven inches square, and half an inch in thickness. The
boards must have a hole in the centre, with a cut from one side to
allow the stalk to pass, and a larger hole on one side to fix it on the
top of the stalk. The buds are fixed in the centre of the board as soon
as they begin to expand, and the space about the stalk and the slit
iu the board are packed with cotton wool to prevent the earwigs
reaching the flower. The
blooms are then covered with
a flower-pot turned bottom
upwards, and usually a cork
is placed in the hole iu the
bottom to exclude the light.
As the colours of many of
the varieties undergo a con-
siderable change when the
blooms are kept in the dark,
it is preferable to knock the
bottom out of the pot, as
shown in Fig. 1, and then it
can be covered with either
wire-netting of a very fine
mesh, a square of glass, clear, or painted to subdue the light, or a
piece of thin board. The blooms of varieties that require a con-

Fig. 1. — Dahlia covered with Flower-pot.

246

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

siderable amount of light may he covered with small hell-glasses,
as shown in Fig. 2, which can he covered with canvas or paper,

or they can he painted with newly-
made whitewash, which does not
wash off or rub off so soon as
washes of whitening and size. A
half globular frame-work of wire,
about six inches in diameter, and
covered with canvas, forms a
capital shade. The frame should
be made so that it can be fixed to
the stakes at any distance from
the top, and the blooms must be
securely fastened to the stake,
because if they rub against any-
thing some of the petals will be
damaged and the flowers rendered
useless. The frames should be fixed low enough down to protect
the blooms from driving rains. Some amateur growers simply

Fig. 2.-

-Dahlia covered with Bell-

#'i'

Fig. 3.— jront View of a ShjW Dahlia.

protect the blooms with ba^s of rather stout muslin, or rather
thin calico, and tbey certainly answer uncommonly well ; but they
are not so good as the boards and flower-pots, or the wire frames.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 247

The blooms are put in the bugs before they are far advanced, and
the hitter are drawn together at the stem, but with sufficient room
for the flower to expand. In dry seasons, paper bags have been
frequently employed with good effect.

The " properties " of the Dahlia have been settled many years
since ; but to enable the young beginner to know what to
look for in making up his stands, a short description of what
a good show-flower should- be, will, in conjunction with the
accompanying illustrations be of considerable service. First,
the flower should, in the outline of the disc, present the figure
of a circle, as shown in Fig. 3, and in bulk form nearly two-thirds of
a ball. The rows of petals should describe regular rings, and should
lie over each other as regularly and evenly as shown in Fig. 4,

iliP

Fig. 4. — Side View of a Show Dahlia.

the sizes gradually diminishing to the centre, which should be well
up without a trace of the eye being visible. The petals should close
over each other so as to conceal their bases ; they should be broad
at their ends, free from notch or serrature, firm in substance and
smooth in texture. They should cup slightly, but not sufficient to
show the back. The colour should be dense and clear ; and the
edged or tipped flowers should have their tints clear and well defined.
The size will of course vary according to the usual size of the
flowers of the respective varieties ; but the larger the flowers are,
provided they show no trace of coarseness and are otherwise well
finished, the better.

The blooms should be gathered in the evening of the day
previous to the show, unless they are intended for an exhibition
held a considerable distance from where they were grown, and then
they ought to be cut early in the morning. They should be put in
the tubes with which the stand is fitted immediately they are cut.

243

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Fig. 5.— Front View of Pompone Dahlia.

and fixed securely with a piece of cork. The best way of fixing the
blooms is to pass the stems through corks, which fit the tin tubes
rather tight, and then thrust the cork into the tube and the flowers
wnl then be unable to move in the slightest degree. In setting up

the stands, due regard
must be paid to balancing
the colours, so as to pre-
serve a proper balance and
to bring out the colours of
the several sorts to the
best possible advantage.
Due regard must also be
paid to the size of the
blooms, and the largest
should, as far as possible
consistent with preserving
a proper balance of colours,
be placed in the back row,
and the largest in each row
placed towards the centre.
It is important that the
blooms should be set up in
stands properly made, and
of the regulation size. The
proper length of a box for

twelve blooms is two feet ; for twenty-four blooms, four feet ;

and in showing thirty-six blooms, a two and a four feet box should be

used ; and for forty-eight blooms, two four-feet boxes, and so on, for

boxes of a greater length

than four feet will be found

very heavy and inconvenient

in their transmission to and

from the exhibition tent.

The depth should be seven

inches at the back, three and

a half inches in front, and the

width should be eighteen

inches, for both two and four

feet boxes. Each box will

take three rows of tubes,

the two outside rows three

inches from the edge of the

box, and the middle one

exactly down the centre.

The tubes should be an inch

in diameter, and placed at a

distance of six inches apart

from centre to centre in the rows. The cork or wooden pegs

should, when fixed in the tubes, stand an inch and a half above the

surface of the box to hold the blooms up in a bold manner. The

boxes should be painted a bright deep green.

Fig. 6. — Side View of Pom)?one Dahlia.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 249

The pompone varieties illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6 are of no use
for show purposes, but they are most valuable for the decoration of
the flower garden. They are neat in growth, and flower mo&t abund-
antly ; they are all well' adapted for forming a background to the
dwarf-growing bedding plants, or for a front row to the taller grow-
ing show dahlias. The best sorts are those with white and scarlet
flowers ; but in the majority of small gardens a mixture will be
preferable.

THE GARDEN GUIDE EOR AUGUST.

Elower Garden. — All tall-growing subjects, such as Dahlias
and Hollyhocks, should be staked as required, to prevent the flower-
ing shoots being torn off by the wind. Tall-growing Gladioli, also,
ought to be supported with neat sticks, to keep the flowers from the
ground. The Dahlias must be tied out, and the flower-buds thinned,
if intended for exhibition. Remove the flower-spikes from all peren-
nials immediately the beauty of the flower is past, if the seed is not
required. Leaving the seed to ripen impoverishes the plants more or
less, besides having an unsightly appearance. This is a capital time
for sowing seed of these things, as there is plenty of time to get
strong plants by the end of autumn, if the seed is got in early this
month. Sow in little beds on a shady border, and plant out directly
the plants are strong enough to handle. Propagate the stock of
bedding-plants at once, excepting the Calceolarias, which are best
left until the end of September. All the bedding Geraniums strike
better on a warm, sunny border than in pots and frames. Prick
up the border, and, after making it firm on the surface, insert the
cuttings, and, in ordinary seasons, all the attention necessary until
they are rooted will be simply to give them one good watering to
settle the soil, and remove all decayed foliage, to prevent its injuring
the other. The Verbenas, Cupheas, Heliotropes, and Lobelias require
more care. The cuttings should be inserted in pots properly drained,
and filled with light sandy soil, and then placed in a cold frame, and
kept close and shaded until rooted.

Kitchen Garden. — The principal spring crops must be got in
this month, and it is highly important that everything in connection
with them be done at the right time. If any delay takes place, the
plants will not attain their full size ; and, on the other hand, if sown
too soon, they get too big, and run to seed directly we get a few
warm days in the spring. Sow Cabbage and Endive in the early part
of the month, and Lettuce and Cauliflowers about the 20th. At the
same time, sow Tripoli Onion, White Stone Turnip, and Black
Spanish Radish. In earthing up Celery, be particularly careful to
prevent the soil getting into the hearts. As the Celery makes but
little progress after it is earthed up, that operation ought not to be
performed until after it is nearly full-grown. Take up and store
Garlic and Shallots as they complete their growth. Give Peas

250 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

French Beans, and Scarlet Runners liberal supplies of manure-water
where practicable.

Pruit Garden". — Regulate and train the growth of wall and
espalier trees, so that it has free exposure to the light and air, to
enable it to get thoroughly ripened. Let the above and pyramids
have a thorough wash overhead frequently, to keep them clean and
fresh. There must be no more stopping after this ; but where
the wood is too thick, remove a few shoots altogether. Protect
Morello Cherries and other fruit, which it is intended to preserve on
the trees after being ripe, with nets, or the blackbirds and thrushes
will soon make short work of them. Make new Strawberry plan-
tations as quickly as possible ; and if good strong runners are
planted, they will form strong crowns this autumn, and bear a good
crop next season. To plant Strawberries in October or spring, as is
commonly practised, is simply a waste of the ground they occupy
for the first year.

Conservatory. — This structure must have a thorough cleansing
at once, so as to be in readiness for the reception of the hard-wooded
stuff when required. All the wood-work should have a thorough
scrubbing with soft soap and warm water, and the walls be washed
over with hot lime. All painting ought to be finished at once, so as
to allow plenty of time for the effluvium arising from it to evaporate
before the plants are housed. There is no danger of frost yet, but
if we get much wet weather during the month, choice, delicate-
rooted plants, like Leschenaultias, Heaths, Genetyllis, etc., must be
removed indoors, to have protection from the wet, or they will suffer
considerable injury. After they get indoors, the ventilators must
be thrown open as wide as possible day and night. Pot off cuttings
of hard-wooried plants that are nicely rooted, to give them an oppor-
tunity of getting nicely established "before winter. Attend to plants
out of doors, and see that they do not suffer for the want of water.
Thin out the growing shoots of the climbers, to give the wood
iutended for next year a chance to get thoroughly ripened.

Stove. — Still maintain a brisk temperature, and give plenty of
air, and use less shade than hitherto, to insure the wood being
thoroughly ripened. Shut up early in the afternoon. Encourage
winter- flowering plants with weak manure- water, and give less water
to plants that have completed their growth. A large proportion of
the Orchids will have completed their growth for this season, and
will now require more air and a fuller exposure to the light.

Forctkg. — Prepare the materials for making fresh Mushroom-
beds, and spawn those made last month. Vines swelling their
fruit must have a moist, growing atmosphere. Muscats must have
a temperature five degrees higher than that required for the
Hambro's. Give plenty of air to houses in which the crops are
ripe, but nail coarse canvas over all openings, to keep the flies and
wasps out. The lights should be removed from the early Peach-
houses where practicable. Trees growing in houses with fixed roofs
should have plenty of air, and receive a thorough syringing two or
three times a day. Sow cucumbers for winter bearing about the
middle of the month. Thin out the growth of those in bearing, and

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 251

water with weak manure-water. Melons, after they are about half
grown, should be elevated above the foliage. It is particularly
necessary to keep the plants properly supplied with water at this
stage ; for, if they get dry at the roots, the fruit will split in all
directions as soon as the plants are supplied with water.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

?HE principal events of July have been the exhibitions of
Roses, of which, notwithstanding the unfavourable
character of the season, all were more or less successful.
The Roses were not at any of the exhibitions equal in
quality to the best of those staged during the last two
or three years, but they were on the whole of fair average quality,
and the only surprise felt by the majority of visitors was that they
were so good. The exhibition held at the Crystal Palace at the end
of June was very successful, and a second, or supplementary show,
is announced for Saturday, the 5th inst., when prizes for table deco-
rations, as well as for roses, will be offered.

The principal rose shows were held at South Kensington, Here-
ford, Birmingham, and Manchester. The exhibition at the last-
mentioned town was of an experimental character, it being the first
ever held there, and the results were so satisfactory that we may
now look upon a rose show at Manchester as one of its established
institutions. In point of quality the best blooms were those staged
at the Royal Horticultural Society's exhibition and at Birmingham,
and as the other exhibitions did not differ materially, a detailed
notice of these shows wiU be quite sufficient to indicate the varieties
which are held in the highest esteem by exhibitors. The competition
in the great class for seventy-two single blooms at Kensington was
not very severe, and it was apparent from the number of faulty
blooms staged that it was a most difficult matter for the exhibitors to
put in an appearance at all in that class. The prizes offered for
forty-eight triple blooms were very warmly contested, and the blooms
were of much better quality. The first prize was taken by Messrs.
Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, who presented grand examples of
Madame Laurent, Madame Victor Verdier, Madame Caillat, Francois
Louvat, Triomphe de Rennes, Marie Baumann, Camille Bernardin,
Antoine Ducher, La Reine, Madlle. Therese Levet, Dr. Andry, Duke
of Edinburgh, Elie Morel, La France, Alfred Colomb, Centifolia
Rosea, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, Souvenir d'Elise, Maurice
Bernardin, Baroness Rothschild, Charles Rouillard, and Madlle.
Marie Rady. Mr. Turner, of Slough, who occupied the second
place, staged fine blooms of Madame Crapelet, Climbing Devoniensis,
Maurice Benardin, Baroness Rothschild, Duke of Edinburgh, Horace
Vernet, Madlle. Marie Rady, Charles Rouillard, Madame Clemence
Joigneaux, Madame Fidion, Miss Ingram, Francoise Lacharme, Miss
Poole, Camille Bernardin, Alfred Colomb, and Abel Grand.

Mr. Turner was first for twenty-four varieties, one truss of each,

252 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

with grand examples of Miss Poole, Madame Clemence Joigneaux,
Duke of Edinburgh, Madlle. Alice Dareau, Marie Baumann, La
France, Anna de Diesbach, Madame Victor Verdier, Climbing De-
voniensis, General Jacqueminot, Madlle. Annie Wood, Miss Poole,
Francoise Treyve, Miss Ingram, Horace Vernet, Marechal Niel, and
Centifolia Eosea, all of which are very fine. Messrs. Paul and Son
were first for twelve blooms with Comtesse d'Oxford, and for six with
Louis van Houtte, undoubtedly one of the finest of recent intro-
ductions. Mr. Turner was second in both classes, and staged twelve
very fine blooms of Miss Poole, a variety sent out from Slough two
years since.

At Birmingham, the competition was very severe in the trade
class for seventy-two, and the first prize was awarded to Mr. J.
Keynes, Salisbury, who exhibited amongst others superbly-finished
blooms of Xavier Oliho, Ville de Lyon, Caroline Sansal, Baronne
Adolphe de Eothschild, Francoise Fontaine, Madame Clert, Edward
Morren, in much better condition than it is usually met with ;
Madame Boutin, Jules Margottin, Duchesse d'Orleans, Senateur
Vaisse, Centifolia Eosea, Hippolyte Flaudrin, Gloire de Dijon,
Alpaide Eotalier, Eeine du Midi, Exposition de Brie, Paul Neron,
Madame Eugene Verdier, a large pseony-shaped flower of but little
merit for exhibition purposes ; Abbe Giraudier, Baroness Eothschild,
Madame Fillion, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Madame Hector Jacquin,
Fisher Holmes, La Eeine, Duke of Edinburgh, Madame Dustour,
Baronne Gonella, Dupuy Jamain, Francoise Lacharme, Princess
Mary of Cambridge, Madame Charles Wood, Niphetos, Prince
Camille de Bohan, Antoine Ducher, Souvenir d'un Ami, Victor
Verdier, Elie Morel, Madame Moreau, La Motte Sanguinea, bright
in colour, but flat and second-rate ; Clemence Eaoux, Charles
Lefebvre, Triomphe de Eennes, Madame Marie Eady, Madame
Vidot, John Hopper, Josephine de Beauharnais, Mdlle. Marie Eady,
Louis Van Houtte, Abel Grand, Alfred Colomb, Marquise de Morte-
mart, Marie Baumaun, Emilie Hausberg, Catherine Mernett, Anna
de Diesbach, Devienne Lamy, Camille Bernardin, Pitord, Madame
La Boutte, Comtesse d'Oxford, Madame Clemence Joigneaux, Mar-
guerite de St.-Amand, Mdlle. Marguerite Dombrain, Maurice Ber-
nardin, Madame Willermoz, Marquise de Castellane, La France, and
Louise Peyronne.

Mr. Keynes was also first for twenty-four new roses sent out by
English nurserymen in the spring of 1S69-70-71, and staged Cle-
mence Eaoux, good ; Comtesse d'Oxford, very distinct and good ;
Charles Turner, poor as shown ; Emilie Hausberg, Marquise de
Mortemart, Marquise de Castellane, a fine rose for pot culture and
garden decoration, but hardly full enough to admit of its being con-
sidered a first-rate rose for exhibition purposes; Mdlle. Eugene
Verdier, second-rate; JSardy Freres, Thyra Hainmerich, PaulNeron,
large and of fine form ; Eeine Blanche, Abbe Giraudier, La Motte
Sanguinea, Jeanne Guillot, Louis van Houtte, a most valuable dark
rose ; Louisa Wood, Catherine Mernett, Dupuy Jamain, Perfection
de Lyon, Ferdinand de Lesseps, a decided acquisition ; and Madame
Dustour.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 253

The number of entries was not so large in the classes for twelve
blooms of light and dark-ftawered varieties as might have been,
expected ; but the blooms staged were exceptionally fine. In the
class for twelve blooms of a light-flowered variety, Mr. Cranston,
Hereford, was first, with Baroness Rothschild, which is undoubtedly'
one of the best light-flowered varieties in cultivation ; and in the
corresponding class for a dark- flowered variety, Mr. Keynes was
first, with Madame Charles Wood ; and Mr. Durbin second, with
Dupuy Jatnain.

The exhibition of the Royal Botanic Society, on the 12th and
13th ult., was the most interesting and successful the Society has
held during the present season ; but excepting the new plants,
nothing calling for especial notice here was exhibited.

The new plants, which received first-class certificates, were —
Goleus Lady Leigh, a very distinct variety, richly variegated with
yellow, green, and chocolate, from Mr. Perkins, of Leamington ;
golden zonal pelargonium, Gem of the Tricolors, a fine variety in the
way of Carter's Prince of Wales, from Mr. Kimberley, Stoke, near
Coventry. Amorphophallus spectabilis, Alocasia Marshalli, in the
way of A. Jenningsi, Rhododendron hybridum, Dioscorea spectabilis,
a fine stove climber, with richly-marked foliage ; Pteris cretica albo-
lineata cristata, very elegantly crested ; Goniophlebium glaucj-
phyllum, and Bignonia Roezliana, from Mr. Bull, Chelsea.
Hydrangea japonica speciosa, a very handsome variety, with varie-
gated foliage, from Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son ; Rhopala
Grantensis, from Mr. B. S. Williams ; Polystichum angulare pul-
cherrima and Scolopendrium vulgare Whytei, from Messrs. Ivery and
Son ; and Davallia clavata, from Messrs. Rollisson and Son.

_ At the last July meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society,
prizes were offered for herbaceous Phloxes, Pentstemons, Liliums,
miscellaneous hardy herbaceous plants, and Picotees, and Carnations.
The Carnations and Picotees were well represented ; but the only
exhibitors of herbaceous Phloxes were Messrs. Downie, Laird, and
Laing, Forest Hill, who staged wonderfully good specimens ot
Pladda, white, with mauve eye ; George Wyness, mauve-pink ; Mr.
Taylor, white, flushed with rose; Captain Speke, lilac; James
Mitchell, deep rose; and Mons. Saison, brilliant crimson, one of the
most richly-coloured phloxes in cultivation. The collection of twelve
hardy herbaceous plants, exhibited by Mr. Parker were exceedingly
well grown and flowered, and were well entitled to the award
received.

The competition in all the classes for Carnations and Picotees
was rather smart. The first prize for twelve Picotees in the class
confined to amateurs was taken by Mr. Norman, Crescent Road,
Plumstead, with magnificent blooms of General Tulloch, Mrs!
Norman, Morning Star, Mr. Davis, J. Dixon, Mr. Brown, William
Ingieton, Mrs. Delaforce, Edith Ingleton, Master Norman, Prince
Arthur, and Mrs. G. Naylor, all of which are first-rate. Mr. Pizzev,
gardener to Sir E. Perry, Fulmer, Slough, who occupied the second
place for Picotees, was first for twelve Carnations, with clean, well-
fimshed blooms of Juno, James Merryweather, Sir R. Peel, Count

254 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Pauline, Mars, Earl Stamford, Sarah Payne, Splendour, Royal
Scarlet, Antonio, Prince Albert, and Eccentric Jack.

In the open class for Carnations and Picotees, the honours were
equally divided by Mr. 0. Turner, Slough, and Mr. Norman; the
former taking first for Carnations and the second, for Picotees, and
the latter first for Picotees and the second for Carnations. In the
first-prize stand of Carnations were superb blooms of Colonel Wynd-
ham, James Merryweather, William Cowper, King John, Purity,
Sarah Payne, Annibilator, Ealconbridge, Juno, Antonio, and Kentish
Hero. In the first-prize stand of Picotees occurred magnificent
blooms of Master Norman, Morning Star, Prince Arthur, Mrs. A.
Ingleton, Purity, John Norman, Edith Ingleton, Mrs. Garrett,
Charles Williams, and John Dixon.

The number of new plants brought before the Committee of the
Royal Horticultural Society at their first July meeting was more
limited than usual. Mr. Bull was awarded a second-class certificate
for Lobelia erinus Omen, a dwarf and rather compact-growing
variety with deep purplish-rose flowers. Mr. Croucher, gardener to
J. T. Peacock, Esq., Sudbury House, Hammersmith, a first-class
certificate for a variegated variety of Agave Verschaffelti, with a
band of yellow down the centre of each leaf ; and a similar award
was conferred upon Houlettia odoratissima antiguoriensis, exhibited
by Mr. Green, gardener to W. W. Saunders, Esq., Hillfield,
Reigate ; also upon Petunia Coquette, an anemone-flowered variety,
white with crimson centre and margin, from Messrs. E. G. Hen-
derson and Son : and for Lithospermum petrcsnm, a pretty blue-
flowered species, and Linwm salsoloides, a pretty dwarf species with
white flowers, from Messrs. Backhouse and Son, York. Mr. C.
Turner contributed two new show Pinks, Br. Masters, heavily laced
with purple-crimson, and Shirley Hibberd, heavily laced with light
rose. The flowers of both are of large size, full, grand form,
smooth, and superbly finished, and were deservedly awarded first-
class certificates.

To the second meeting Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Son sent a
group of new varieties of Lobelia erinus pumila, the best of which
were — Brilliant, deep cobalt blue, flowers as large as those of
speciosa, habit very dwarf and compact, but rather more vigorous
than the ordinary type of pumila ; Celestial Blue, clear azure-blue,
flowers of medium size and freely produced, habit dense and com-
pact. Purple Prince, deep purplish rose, free flowering, dwarf and
compact, was also very good. Messrs. J. and C. Lee, Hammer-
smith, exhibited Lobelia erinus Purity, which may be described as
a white-flowered speciosa. The habit is all that can be desired, and
the flowers, which are produced in the most profuse manner, are
pure white. Therefore it must be most valuable for bedding pur-
poses, as a white-flowered plant suitable for marginal lines has long
been wanted. M. Jean Verschaffelti Ghent, Belgium, sent an
interesting group of Agaves and Cycads, including Agave mescal
striatis, A. species nova (?), a pretty upright grower; A. elegant is-
sima, a very beautiful neat-growing species, worthy of a place in
the most select collection ; A. Eegeli macrodontha, a strong grower,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 255

armed with formidable spines ; Encsplialartos Vroomi, a noble species,
and a new Zamia with most elegant; fronds.

Mr. Norman, Plumstead, staged a stand of new Picotees, all of
■which possess considerable merit, but the best were — Mrs. Brown,
light-edged red, ground clear, edge sharp and definite ; Lady Holms-
dale, heavy-edged rose, very fine and smooth ; Morning Star, light-
edged rose, with pink shade, ground very pure, smooth, and per-
fect in outline ; William Ingleton, heavy-edged purple, petals broad
and smooth, a fine bold flower; and Mr. Brown, edge medium, and
of a deep rich crimson hue, a fine bold flower.

Several interesting fruits and vegetables were also exhibited at
the last meeting, the most important of which were — The Amateur's
strawberry, a fine handsome fruit of a dark crimson colour, and
most excellent flavour, exhibited by Mr. Bradley, Littledale Halam,
near Southwell, Notts ; Ascot Citrondle grape, a most valuable, rich,
and piquant-flavoured white grape, which is said to hang well, and
does not crack, raised and exhibited by Messrs. Stanclish and Co.,
Ascot ; Bigarreau Noir de Schmidt cherry, a large and handsome-
looking cherry, from the nursery of Messrs. Eivers and Son, Saw-
bridgeworth ; and Lee's Prolific Black Currant, the best of all the
black varieties, was again exhibited by the raiser, Mr. Lee, Clevedon.
Bristol, in splendid condition.

Mr. James, gardener to W. E. "Watson, Esq., Redlees, Isleworth,
contributed samples of a new wrinkled marrow pea, named
James's Prolific, the average height of which is three feet, and the
pods are long, well filled, nearly straight, and produced from the
bottom to the top of the haulm.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Plant Labels. — W. H. IT.— The labels referred to are manufactured by Messrs.
Bell and Thorpe, Paddock Nurseries, Straiford-on-Avon, who will, no doubt, send a
list of prices on application.

Sfirtea Culture. — Christine. — Very probably the plants suffered from dryness
at the roots. The subject shall have attention shortly.

Aquarium Furnishing. — J. J.— We do not recommend dealers, and are, there-
fore, unable to afford you the desired information.

Planting Rose Trees. — F. B. R. — The rose trees should be planted early in No-
vember, but they may be planted as Lite as the March following. The beds or borders
in which they arc planted should be liberally enriched with hotbed or stable manure
previous to planting the trees. The roots should be covered to a depth of about
three or four inches. We cannot answer your third query, for the reason that we do
not recommend dealers. Standard rose trees may be procured from any good nursery
at prices ranging from one to two shillings each, the usual price being eighteen
shillings per dozen for established varieties.

B. B. — Fasten the trees with strong tar twine in addition to the haybands.
The best remedy for unfruitful ness is root-pruning, as pointed out by Mr. Trussler in
the Floral World for February of the present year. The only way to keep the
tender plants during the winter is to put them in the frames, as you have no house
and protect them from frost by means of mats, or other covering material, such as
long litter, straw, or refuse hay. Myosolis sylvatica, SUene pendula, CannelVs
Eztra Dark, and Belvoir Castle, Dwarf Yellow Wallflowers, Red and White
Daisies, Viola lutea grandijlora, Arabis lucid*, and A/ys.sum saxatile compactum,
are all remarkably showy, and may be purchased at a cheap rate. With the exeep-

256 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN. GUIDE.

tion of the Daisies, all the above may be raised from seed, but it must be sown at
once to insure plants large enough to bloom satisfactorily next spring. Green and
variegated tree Box, Euonymus, Hollies, and Aucubas, and Thuja aurea, and
Cupressus Lawsoniana, are all suitable for filling flower beds in winter. Zonal
pelargoninms require very little moisture during the winter months. The other
question was anticipated by a valued correspondent. The Dahlia tubers were, most
probably, injured by the frost.

Skeleton Leaves. — A Lady Correspondent. — We quite agree with all that
has been said with respect to the beauty of bouquets of skeleton leaves when taste-
fully mounted ; but we can assure our correspondent that the task of preparing
them is not so difficult as she imagines. Select the finest and most perfect
specimens, and soak them in a large deep vessel of rain-water; place it in a sunny
spot or other warm situation, and shake it occasionally, but not sufficient to stir up
the contents, as that might injure the fibres of the leaves. As the water evaporates,
fill up with fresh water again, without changing that which remains. Be careful
of using any chemical in order to assist decomposition, as you will thereby run
great risk of injuring the delicate skeleton, which, of course you 'are anxious to
keep quite perfect. But if you are impatient of waiting, a few drops of muriatic
acid would hasten the destruction of the soft parts. Tlie most usual plan, however,
is to soak the leaves in rain-water only, until the skin which envelops the fibre is
quite soft and loose, so that it can be easily removed. The best plan for accomplish-
ing this is to lay each one separately in a plate full of water, and carefully remove
the soft parts with a needle, or gentle rubbing with the finger and thumb. . Of
course, great care must be taken not to break the skeleton ; but with' a. little
practice you will be able to do it easily. As soon as the water thickens, so that you
cannot well see what you are about, change it, or you will spoil your work. In
some cases a piece of soft flannel may be used with advantage ; but the final
clearing of pulp from the fibres must be performed with a camel-hair brush. The
time required for steeping them depends upon a variety of circurr.star.ces, such as
the kind of leaf, its age, the time of year, the temperature of the weather, etc.
The leaves of the ivy and holly require soaking for three or four months, while
those of the pear, apple, and poplar will be ready in as many weeks ; so that it
will be necessary for you to use your own judgment, and discover the time eacli
kind of leaf requires for yourself, by examining them occasionally. Of course it
will require some patience and perseverance before "first-rate" skeletons can be
obtained; but the task is not so difficult but that any one gifted with ordinary
patience and medium talent may be able to produce very creditable specimens.
The vessel containing the water may be pretty well filled with specimens, as they
will not injure each other unless shaken too rudely, but perhaps rather assist in the
process of decomposition. It is not advisable to use any but full-grown leaves, as
the delicate fibres of young ones are likely to decompose with the pulp. The best
time for selecting them is therefore about July or August, when they are quite
mature, but still vigorous. Great care must be taken to choose only the most
perfect, for it is obvious that if any portion of the fibres are injured before you
macerate them, it will be impossible to obtain a perfect specimen. Hold your leaf,
then, up to the light, and if you can see a crack, or any small spots of decay, thiow
it away, or your time and trouble will be wasted ; for when once the skeleton is
broken, or otherwise injured, all attempts to repair it prove unavailing. Those leaves
which have the toughest fibres are, of course, the best adapted for the purpose, and
consequently the soft leaves of rapid-growing plants are useless. Those best
adapted for the purpose, and which can be obtained by everybody, are leaves of ivy,
holly, magnolia, rose, pear, sycamore, willow, oak, hawthorn, poplar, orange, and
lemon, the petals of hydrangea, and fruit of the apple, thorn, and winter cherry.
Each kind of leaf has a peculiarity of structure and a beauty entirely its own ; so
that the differences in the fibrous network, and the variety and elegance of outline
observable in the different subjects, give to the pursuit a great charm. The appear-
ance of the skeleton is greatly improved by bleaching, which is accomplished by
plunging in «pring-water in which has been dissolved some chloride of lime. Two
table-spoonfuls of liquid chloiide to a pint of water will f-nffice. In some cases the
skeletons will become white in a few minutes but leaves of stronger fibre will take
a much longer time. When well bleached, dry them carefully on blotting-paper,
and then arrange them tastefully in a vase, and cover the whole with a glass shade,
when you will possess a very elegant ornament for your drawing-room or boudoir.

PINK.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 257

TURNEE'S NEW PINKS.

(With Coloured Plate of Godfrey)

)|HE beautiful pink Godfrey, which we have the pleasure of
figuring in the present number, is one of a magnificent
series of new show varieties, introduced to public notice
for the first time during the present season, by Mr.
Chas. Turner, of the Royal Nurseries, Slough. The whole
of the series, which will be described as we proceed, when exhibited
before the Royal Horticultural Society in June, received the highest,
award the Moral Committee could confer. The fact of their being
in the hands of Mr. Charles Turner, who has probably done more
towards the advancement of floriculture than any other man living,
is a sufficient guarantee of their great excellence ; but we have
mentioned the fact of their having first-class certificates conferred
upon them as a further proof that they are each and all quite dis-'
tinct from, and superior to, the best in general cultivation.

Before proceeding to describe the varieties here referred to,
we are anxious to direct attention to a few of the most essential
conditions in the cultivation of the Show Pinks. One of the most
important matters is to buy and plant in the autumn, and not
wait, as is usually done, until the spring. AVhen planted in the
autumn, they become well established by the spring, and flower satis-
factorily ; but when the planting is left until the spring, there is not
sufficient time for them to be well rooted and make much pro-
gress before the flowering season. It is also necessary to plant early
in the autumn to insure their being established before the winter
sets in. The beds, therefore, should be prepared at once, and the
plants put out as soon as they are ready for their reception. The
preparation of the beds is a very simple affair, and such as can be
performed by the veriest tyro, if the hints here given are followed.

Excessive moisture is one of the greatest enemies with which the
pink has to contend during the winter ; and to avoid the settlement
of stagnant moisture about the plants, the surface of the beds
should be elevated from six to nine inches above the general level,
varying the height according to the character of the soil and situa-
tion— beds in low-lying situations, or formed of soils naturally wet or
of a retentive character, requiring the greatest elevation. The surface
of the bed should be rather higher in the centre, to enable the surplus
water after a heavy rain or thaw of snow to escape quickly ; but
the fall on each side must not be too great, or the occupants will be
deprived of their proper share of moisture during the spring and
summer months. The soil must be broken up to a considerable
depth, and well pulverized, and a plentiful proportion of thoroughly-
decayed hotbed or stable manure incorporated with it. If the staple
soil is of an uncongenial character, the addition of a liberal layer of
turfy loam will be of considerable service in promoting a healthy
growth. Leave a space of about two feet between the beds, to
enable the cultivator to examine and attend to the flowers, as may
VOL. VI. — NO. ix. 17

258 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

be necessary, without treading on the beds, and for the same reason
the beds should not exceed a width of three feet. Beds of this
width will conveniently take four rows of plants, and the latter
should be put out at a distance of nine inches apart. Plant firm, and
fix a small stick to each, to prevent the wind twisting or otherwise
injuring the stern. It is of course essential to procure strong,
healthy plants ; but a first-rate grower, like Mr. Turner, will be
careful to supply healthy plants only, so that it is not necessary to
say anything further upon this point.

In the spring, if the surface-soil has become consolidated, prick
it up lightly. Early in April, cover the surface with a moderate
layer of partly-decayed manure, which will serve the double purpose
of keeping the roots cool, and checking the too rapid evaporation
of the moisture from the soil. From the time the plants begin to
<*row freely, until they go out of bloom, water the beds twice
a-week during dry weather ; soft water is preferable, and if slightly
flavoured with the draining from the manure heap, so much the
better.

So many good papers on the cultivation of the Pink have ap-
peared in these pages, that we have considered it undesirable to offer
anything but the briefest remarks upon the cultural part of the sub-
ject, and those who are in need of further information will do well
to consult the numbers of the Flobal World for March, 1866, and
October, 1868.

The names and descriptions of the series of new varieties are as
follows : —

Coccinea. — This is a magnificent forcing variety of the type repre-
sented by Anne Boleyn. It usually attains a height of about nine
inches, and produces its large, brilliant scarlet flowers in the greatest
possible profusion. The flowers are large and full, and will be found
most valuable for hand and button-hole bouquets ; neatly-grown
plants will also be useful for conservatory decoration in the early
part of the season, and a bed should be planted with it expressly for
furnishing a supply of cut flowers during the early part of the
summer.

Lady Blanch. — This is a fine companion to the preceding ; it is
rather taller in growth, and the flowers, which are produced in the
greatest profusion, both when grown in pots and in the open ground,
are large, full, and of the purest white. These two are not suited
for exhibition purposes, but for home decoration they are unsur-
passed.

Godfrey. — As here pourtrayed, this is a grand show flower of the
most refined proportions and superb finish ; the flowers are large
and full, and the petals are broad, perfectly smooth round the
edge, and heavily laced with bright reddish purple.

Alice. — Like Godfrey this is a beautifully finished flower, but
differs in the lacing, which in this case is delicate rose purple ; a fine
exhibition flower.

Shirley Hibberd. — Flowers extra large and full, and superbly
finished ; petals broad, smooth, and heavily laced with light rose ; a
magnificent show flower.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 259

Dr. Masters. — This also is a superb show flower, of which it is
impossible to say too much. It differs from its predecessor in the
colour of the lacing, which is deep purplish crimson, instead of
light rose.

Those who purpose forming a collection will find the following
selection of twenty-five older kinds of considerable value : —

Attraction, Beautiful, Beauty of Bath, Bertram, Blondiu, Charles
"Waterton, Christabel, Delicata, Device, Dr. Maclean, Edith, Emily,
Excelsior, Eustace, John Ball, Lady Craven, Lizzie, Lord Herbert,
Marion, Mrs. Maclean, Mrs. White, Perfection, Picturata, President,
Rev. G. Jeans. S. H.

THE LACE-LEAF PLANT (OUVIRANDRA FENESTRALIS).

BT GEOftGE GORDON.

[HE singularly beautiful Ouvirandra fenestralis, and its
congener Bemeriana, are seldom seen in any but the
stoves of the most wealthy, whereas they are just the
plants that the enthusiastic amateur who has the con-
venience of a stove should take in hand. They are
certainly peculiar in their requirements, but when the details are
well understood, there is nothing difficult in their management, and
it will be found that attention, rather than skill, is of the greatest
importance.

"When recently conversing with the Rev. W. Ellis, the well-known
missionary, who had the honour of first introducing living specimens
of these plants to this country, on the conditions under which they
are met with in the greatest perfection in their native habitats, and
the immense difficulties he had to encounter in bringing them home
alive, the thought struck me that a few hints on their cultivation
may be of service to some of the readers of the Floeal Wobld.
The cultural directions which follow are, it is hardly necessary to
say, founded on my personal experience in their cultivation, and it
may with safety be said, that if they are strictly acted upon, failure
will be impossible.

The blades of the leaves of 0. fenestralis usually attain a length
of about fifteen inches, and a width of three inches, and are sup-
ported on gracefully arching petioles which vary in length according
to the depth of water above the surface of the soil. About fourteen
nerves run from the base of the leaf, gradually expand, and converge
again towards the apex, so as to form a lengthened oval shape, and
are connected together with cross veins ; and from the entire absence
of parenchyma, they are simply a network of brownish green
threads, as shown in the illustration of the leaf, and also of the
entire plant, which accompany this. The leaves of 0. Bemeriana
are longer in the blade, of a brighter green, and are made of much
stouter network or veins. Of the two, the former is the most
elegant, but both should be grown by those who care for this

2G0 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

class of plants. To grow them successfully, they should have twelve
or fifteen inches of water above the surface • of the soil. An in-
verted bell-glass, placed in a large pot, makes a capital aquarium to
grow them in, and is quite as suitable as the most expensive affair
that could be manufactured. But the circular aquariums are
stronger, and have a better appearance, and are therefore preferable ;
the square aquariums would answer perfectly, but they are expen-
sive, and it will be better to say nothing about them, further than
to indicate their suitability for the purpose. If a circular aquarium
is employed, one eighteen or twenty inches in diameter would be
the best size, and then there will be no difficulty in providing the
proper depth of water. These plants can be grown either planted
out in a bed of soil placed in the bottom of the glass, or in pots
stood on a bed of small gravel or pebble-stones in the bottom.
Planting them out is preferable ; but the difference between grow-
ing them turned out and in pots is so very slight, that the directions
will apply with equal effect to both methods.

In preparing the aquarium for the plants, place a layer of crocks
in the bottom to a depth of about four inches in the deepest part,
and on the crocks place the compost for the roots to run in. This
should consist of good fibry loam and peat, plentifully mixed with

Ovihandra fenestealis. (Complete Plant.)

broken crocks and silver sand, thoroughly incorporated together
and used in a rough lumpy condition. Prom four to six inches is a
good depth of soil, regulating it according to size of the plants and
glass. When the plants are placed in position, the soil should be
filled in about the roots and pressed very firm. When this part of
the work is finished the soil should have a good soaking of water,
through a fine rose, to settle it properly, and clear the foliage of any
particles of soil adhering to it. The aquarium can then be filled
with rain water, which should range in temperature from 70" to
80° ; 75° being a safe medium. As it is desirable to do this with-
out disturbing the soil, and malting the water muddy, do it carefully,
for the sediment which settles on the leaves will not contribute to the
health of the plant. To pour in the water without disturbing the
soil at the bottom, place a saucer in the glass, and then stand a
flower-pot in the saucer, into which the water should be poured

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

261

rather slowly. The water will run through the hole in the bottom
of the pot into the saucer, and distribute itself in the glass without
causing any disturbance.

To grow theui to the highest degree of perfection, a little trouble
must not be objected to. A can of soft water should be placed on
the hot-water pipes, and kept full at all times, to be devoted
expressly to them. Every morning when the other plants are being
watered, about one-third
of the water should be
drawn oft", with a siphon,
and the glass filled up
with the warm water which
has been kept on the pipes
for the purpose. Or if
drawing the water oft'
every morning is too much
trouble, take the can in
one hand, and place the
other hand just under the
surface of the water, and
pour the water into that
hand, and let the water
overflow for a short time.
This will effect a change
of water with but little
trouble. The reason for
placing the hand under-
neath the water, is to pre-
vent the fresh supply
stirring up the mud. A
small siphon may also be
iitted to empty a portion
of the glass every day,
which could be filled up as
above described, if pre-
ferred, but I like the
overflowing best. Once
a, week, or once in every
two weeks, the glass
should be emptied with
a siphon, and the inside
have a good washing to
remove every particle of
confervce and other accumulation. "When this is done, refill with
the pot and saucer as advised in the preceding paragraph.

Both species can also be most successfully grown in pots placed
in large wooden tubs. They should be put in rather large pots, and
the rim of the pots elevated to within about twelve inches of the
surface of the water. They may also be grown in sitting-rooms, or in
the greenhouse, in an aquarium heated on the principle shown at
page 95 of the Floral World for May, 1362.

^^^0m^

""-via

OuVIKANDKA 1'ENESTKALIS.

scape.)

(Leaf and flower-

262 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

With respect to their propagating, it is not necessary to say much,
because it is not a question of much importance to the amateur, for
one good specimen of each species will be quite sufficient ; there is
however, very little difficulty in increasing the stock ; for when
grown vigorously the plants will flower and seed very freely. The
flower-scapes when they make their appearance above the surface,
and are in proper condition, should be brushed lightly over with a
soft camel's-hair brush, to insure the flowers setting. After this
they should be left alone, and the seed will drop into the water, and
soon take root in the soil. Some of the seeds will root suspended
in the water, and float about some time before acquiring fixture.
It is of little use to attempt to gather the seed when ripe, and then
sow, for there wall be little else but failure ; but if left alone, there
will be no difficulty experienced in raising a young stock.

VIOLAS AND PANSIES FOR BEDDING.

BY A IlfiAD GAEDENEE.

ETER the lamentable failure of Viola cormita, and its
congener V. lutea, as bedding plants, it is a most difficult
matter to persuade people that any of the violas, or their
near relatives the pansies, are adapted for the embellish-
ment of the flower garden during the summer months.
Yet there can be no doubt in the minds of those who have paid any
attention to thsm that several, with proper management, are most
valuable bedders. In some soils and situations, both the pansies and
violas succeed most satisfactory, and produce a succession of bloom
throughout the summer season ; but in others they make but slow
progress, and go out of bloom just at the moment they should be at
their best. They all require during the summer season a moderately
moist and comparatively cool soil, and to attempt to grow them in
soils of a naturally dry and hot character would be most unwise.
The only way to ascertain whether they will thrive in certain soils
and situations is to plant a few of each of the varieties that will be
mentioned in a trial bed, and then if it is found that they do well a
stock should be propagated. This season has been very favourable
to this class of plants, and our beds of violas have been the admira-
tion of all who have seen them. They were also especially good last
year, notwithstanding the summer being one of the hottest and
driest within the memory of the present generation. The staple
soil of the flower garden does not differ materially from that of
hundreds of other flower gardens, for it is neither very light or very
heavy, and moderately deep. The preparation of the beds is effected
in a very simple manner ; they are dug up to a moderate depth and
a barrowful of old hotbed manure, and the same quantity of decayed
vegetable refuse, incorporated with the soil of each bed, eight feet in
diameter; smaller beds, of course, have less, and larger ones more.
The beds that are to be filled with violas or pansies are not planted
with spring-flowering plants because the two former classes of plants

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 263

must be established in their summer quarters long before the latter
go cut of bloom. Many of the failures of the two violas mentioned
at the commencement, may be safely attributed to late planting. The
early part of March is the most suitable period for filling the beds,
and then the plants have sufficient time to become well established
before the hot weather sets in. Independent of this consideration,
it is most important to plant early, for the period of their coming into
bloom is regulated by the time they are planted, and as our summer
seasons are so very short, every day is of consequence. To be able
to plant early, the cuttings must be struck comparatively early in the
autumn and be well established by the winter, to admit of the plants
being wintered without protection, beyond that required to protect
them from an excessive amount of moisture or severe frosts. They
are all reputed hardy ; but in soils in which they succeed most
satisfactorily during the summer, a great risk is run of losing a
considerable part of the stock from the combined action of the frost
and rains during the winter. Damp is a greater enemy than cold,
and if they are kept moderately dry, and the frame in which they are
wintered ventilated freely whenever the weather is favourable to
air-giving, the severest frosts only will be capable of doing any harm
to them when the lights are closed and a mat thrown over the glass.
The best plan of admitting air in unsettled weather is by tilting the
lights both at the back and the front, and then a current of air will
pass over the plants without their being saturated with moisture in
case of heavy rains. In very damp foggy weather the lights may ba
closed with advantage ; but the plants must not be deprived of a
due share of air, or the danger of their perishing will be greater
than if they were growing in the open border. The cuttings can be
struck any time during the months of August and September ; but
the third and fourth week of the first-mentioned month i3 the most
desirable period for putting them in, as it affords them plenty of
time to become well established by the winter, without becoming
too large. Select the young side-shoots that have not attained
to a flowering size ; take them off just below the third joint from the
top ; and after removing the lower pair of leaves insert them in pans
or boxes filled with sandy soil, and then place them in a cold frame.
Shade when necessary, keep rather close, especially during the first
fortnight, and sprinkle the cuttings lightly once or twice a day to
keep the foliage fresh until they are furnished with roots. When
nicely rooted, plant at a distance of three inches apart each way in a
bed of light sandy soil, made up in a cold frame, or if a frame can-
not be spared make up the bed in the open and protect them from
frost by means of mats or other covering. When planted in the
spring they can be lifted with a trowel, and if carefully handled they
will hardly feel the shift. Several very fine new violas have been
introduced quite recently, and the best, so far as my experience has
gone with them, are, of those with yellow flowers : Parker's
V. lutea major, golden yellow, and Dickson and Co.'s V. lutea
pallida, clear primrose yellow, and V. sauveolens major, clear
deep yellow. Of the dark-flowered varieties : Dickson and Co.'s
V. amcena oculata, and V. lutea Purple King, deep purple with

264 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

yellow eye. The most effective of the dark-flowered varieties of an
anterior date to the above is Henderson's V. Imperial Blue
Perfection ; but the most beautiiul is Williams's V. Blue Perfection,
which has finer flowers, but does not appear to bloom quite so
early in the spring or produce its flowers so continuously during
the summer months 33 Henderson's variety, which, by the way,
is only suitable for planting in masses. Amongst the yellow-
flowering varieties, V. lutea grandiflora, raised a few years since by
Mr. Tyerman, Curator of the Liverpool Botanic Gardens, still stands
pre-eminent; the flowers are large, of a rich golden yellow, and are
produced in the greatest possible profusion throughout the summer
and far into the autumn. Established plants will commence flower-
ing in February, and continue in bloom, more or less, until the
following autumn ; but when especially intended for summer
decoration, spring planting is desirable. The best yellow-flowered
bedding pansy with which I am acquainted, suitable for summer
bedding, is Pride of Pufford, a variety sent out by Mr. Cannell, of
Woolwich, in the early part of the present year. In growth it is
vigorous and wiry, and produces a succession of flowers from early
in the spring until the autumn. It is used very extensively at
Enville Hall, for bedding purposes, and enjoys a very high
reputation wherever it is grown. It is by no means expensive, for
when first sent out the price was only a few shillings per dozen.
Other good bedders, which however, are only suitable for spring
decoration, are Ware's Cloth of Gold, yellow; Downie's Imperial Blue,
deep purplish blue; Great Eastern, white; Hooper's Stmshine,
coppery orange, very distinct ; Hooper's Mrs. Shirley Hibherd, rosy
lilac. The Cliveden varieties, in the several colours of blue, white,
and yellow, are showy, but decidedly inferior to the above.

EAELY TULIPS.

fHESE beautiful and gaudy-coloured flowers are among
some of the most useful that can be found for the
decoration of the flower garden during the spring
months. That this is so, is proved by the fact that
they are so much in request for spring work in the
geometric garden. But their use is by no means limited to the flower
garden ; as for pot culture, scarcely anything else can compete with
them during winter. It is possible, by judicious planting, to get
the Early Single Van Thol in flower by the middle of November,
and even earlier ; then to succeed this well-known variety, there are
such precocious flowering kinds as Scarlet Van Thol, Golden Prince,
White Pottebalcker, 'Royal Standard, and others, all of which are
invaluable for growth in pots for the decoration of the conservatory,
and for windows.

There are two distinct classes of tulips in our gardens : the one
represented by the early-flowering kinds now under notice; the
other by the late-flowering, or show tulips. The former we are

TUE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 265

informed, -were obtained from such species as Tulipa nutans, and
T. suaveolens; the latter from the gaudy Tulipa Gesneriana.
Respecting the late-flowering or show kinds, something shall be said
later.

Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, are in the habit of plant-
ing out each winter a number of beds of the early-blooming tulips,
to test their adaptability for bedding purposes. Set down in the
midst of their nursery, the beds make a charming and effective
display ; and visitors to the nursery have found them to be one of its
not least interesting features. I thought it well, in looking through
them, to grasp them in their several shades of colour, and by this
means endeavour to show the best and most distinct in each section.

Taking the white flowers, the two best are undoubtedly Princess
Helena, and the well-known White PottehaJcker. The former i3 an
excellent variety for bedding, the flowers pure white, the habit
dwarf and erect. It deserves to be highly recommended, and is not
very expensive. The useful old White Pottebakker, which comes a
little later in bloom, yet holds its own as a good, cheap, serviceable
white variety, and will do so for years to come. It has a stiff rigid
habit ; the flowers large, and of good form. Gomte de Mirabeau
may be classed with the whites, though it gets somewhat tinted with
pale lively pink when the flowers have been out some time ; it is not
so large, nor is it of such a good build, as White Pottebakker, but is
useful as a variety and comes into bloom with La Belle Alliance, a
capital brilliant scarlet-crimson flower. Comte de Mirabeau appears
to be identical with La Heine, or Queen Victoria.

The earliest of all the yellow tulips is Chrysolora, of a capital hue
of pure yellow. This should be noted as a very useful early-flower-
ing variety for bedding purposes. Prince de Ligne, a variety that
has been highly spoken of, is inferior to Chrysolora, both in colour
and build, and has pointed petals. Yellow Prince is an excellent
bedder ; it has fine large showy flowers, and a nice upright rigid
habit, and can be bracketed with Chrysolora as the two most useful
of the single kinds. Yellow Pottebaklier is a fine bold showy tulip,
but apt to come striped with red : under which form it is known as
the Med-striped Pottebalihcr.

The earliest scarlet tulip is Brutus ; it is vivid in colour, and has
a very slight yellow feather on the edges, and being dwarf in habit
and not high in price, it is very useful for massing. Scarlet Van
Thol is an inestimable bedding tulip, early, dwarf, and fine in colour,
and very cheap ; a bed of this is a floral picture of no common
order. It may be stated that it comes into flower about two days
earlier than La Belle Alliance ; the latter is a grandly effective tulip,
and in the gleaming sunshine the hue is very rich and bright.
Vermilion Brilliant is also a flue showy tulip, of a rich vermilion-
crimson hue, and comes into bloom about the same time as Scarlet
Van Thol, and is larger than this well-known variety. Gouleur
Cardinal is a splendid bedding tulip, having a most unusual dwarf,
rigid habit ; the flowers are of a rich dark red, with a vivid crimson
feather on the edges ; it is a little late in blooming, but it serves
the important purpose of giving a succession of bloom. Couronne

206 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Pourpre is a very fine dark shaded red tulip, perhaps the deepest
coloured of all ; and it comes into flower with La Belle Alliance, to
which, by reason of the peculiar bright hue of the latter, it offers an
admirable contrast ; it, too, has a dwarf erect habit. Paul Moreehe,
a distinct flower of a bright cerise-crimson hue, is well worthy the
attention of bedders, being of a fine and striking tone of colour.

In the way of buff-coloured tulips, Thomas Moore stands alone
in its peculiar distinctiveness of character. If not quite so effective
as the yellow selfs, it is yet worthy of attention, because having so
much individuality.

There is a grand wealth of violet-coloured flowers, or those
having violet in their character. The grandest of all is Proserpine,
a truly regal tulip of a rich bright silken violet rose hue, of very
large size, and magnificent build. It is unrivalled as a bedder or for
growth in pots. Its high price is against its extended use, and yet
this also shows that the supply scarcely keeps pace with the demand,
for the high price has been maintained for a considerable period.
The darkest of all the flowers of this shade is IVouvermann, of a
deep purplish violet hue and very distinct ; Van cler Neer is rather
paler than Wouvermann, and as a flower is of a splendid build, and
of large size ; this also is a fine bedding variety, but high in price.
Queen of Violets is a fine pale-coloured flower of good build, and
quite distinct, and appears to be identical with President Lincoln.
Another good pale violet flower, and very useful, is Moliere. A newer
variety, of much the same shade as Proserpine, is Cramoisie Pourpre,
but later and not nearly of so good a build.

The edged flowers comprise some splendid tulips, large and
showy. The premier is Keizer Kroon, bright shining red, broadly
edged with deep yellow, magnificent alike for beds or pots ; a bed
of this grand variety, on a bright spring day, is a sight long to be
remembered. Next comes Duchesse de Parma, a large and showy
flower, having an orange-red base, and feathered with yellow; this, too,
is a very effective bedder. Due dWremberg is much in the same
way, but smaller, and of scarcely so deep a colour. Princesse
(PAutriche is a broken or feathered form of Duchesse de Parma, the
base being streaked with yellow. A bed of Duchesse de Parma is
almost certain to show the broken form ; while a bed of the broken
form is very apt to show flowers having an unbroken base. Le
Matelas, white, flushed with rose, may be described as an excellent
fair-weather tulip, but gets washed out in wet weather. Pose
Luisante and Rouge Luisante appear to be the same ; if there is
any difference between them, the latter has more colour in the base.
At any rate, it may be safely recommended as a good dwarf early tulip.

The most numerous section consists of striped flowers, as of these
there is a great variety, and they comprise some very pretty and
distinct types. There is a very fine and handsome rosy-cerise self
tulip named Cramoisie Superh, which appears to be identical with
one known under the name of Monument, or nearly so. The broken
form of this has white stripes ; it is very handsome, and known
under the name of Cramoisie Poyale. It is very effective both for
pots or beds. Boi Pepin, having crimson flakes and stripes on a light

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 2G7

ground is a very pretty dwarf growing tulip, but better adapted for
pots than beds ; besides which, it is one of the most expensive of the
varieties grown, lloyal Standard is a pretty and useful striped
flower, tbe ground white, with feathering of rosy-crimson. Bride of
Haarlem is something in the same way, but more colour in it, and
of better quality, and a good forcing variety, which lloyal Standard
is not. Joost van Vondel, crimson, with a pale feather along the
base of the florets, and occasionally with white stripes, is a flower
of very fine build and large size, and effective in pots, but also good
for beds, being dwarf in growth and keeping so, however richly
grown, and will do for a self-bed, as the stripe is generally some-
what indistinct, Fabiola, a distinct variety of a rosy-violet ground
flaked with white, is better adapted for pots than beds, as when
grown in the open ground the colours are apt to come dull. Grand
Due de Russie appears to be identical with Fabiola. Globe de Reg-
nant, deep violet, striped and feathered with white, is a good useful
tulip, though rather dull-looking. Golden Standard, having golden
stripes instead of white, is also a good useful dwarf bedding variety.

The double tulips are much more restricted in numbers than the
single kinds, and with the exception of a very few well-known
serviceable varieties, are not near so much in request for bedding
purposes. The glorious old Tournesol stands ahead of all as yet, and
of other edged varieties. Gloria Solis comes next for effectiveness,
and is also very cheap. Velvet Gem has the same coloured base as
Gloria Solis, and a very slight feather of yellow on the edges of the
florets. Duke of York ia a distinct, but scarcely effective edged
flower when used in a bed ; it has a dark rose-coloured base, and an
edging of white, but it is very pretty in pots. Gouronne de Roses,
deep bright crimson, is a most acceptable beddiug variety, being
dwarf in growth, and very showy. The finest self-scarlet is Impera-
tor Rubrorum, it is large, full, and very showy. The Yelloio Tour-
nesol is a good yellow self, and, as compared with yellow rose, has a
more erect habit. All the double flowers are apt to hang their heads
and consequently are not so effective in beds as the single kinds, which
are more rigid in the flower-stalks, and are not so apt to fall about

The short duration of the blooming season is a complaint often
laid to the charge of tulips, and is used a3 an argument against their
use in the flower garden. Generally speaking, the case is a little
over-stated against the tulip ; they do continue in bloom for a con-
siderable period, and if a little attention be only paid to their
relative precocity, a very fair succession of bloom can be obtained.
It is certain there is nothing else can give such bold imposing-
masses of colour during the spring months as the tulip. My advice
to spring gardeners is, always have a base to the beds in which you
plant your tulips. I once saw at Ealing Park a charming spring
bed, and that, too, composed but of simple elements : namely, a base
of the white-flowering Arabis albida, from the midst of which rose
single red hyacinths. Looked at from the distance of a hundred
yards or so, with a dark background of shubbery to throw it up, this
was a very pleasant floral picture indeed. This illustration serves to
show how tulips can be used in conjunction with other things; some

268 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

to bloom earlier than the tulips, and others later. Then foliaged-
beds are being much introduced into our spring gardens, and make
such excellent bases for tulips.

Nor must beds of mixed tulips be overlooked. Some of these
are very charming indeed, and we advocate their use in consequence,
even though some may be a little dwarfer in growth than others. A
bed of mixed tulips among a few beds of self-coloured flowers form
a nice and acceptable contrast to the masses of colour, in the same
way that a bed of foliaged plants softens the effect of glaring masse3
of colour in the summer flower garden.

Homo Sum.

THE AUTUMN AND WINTER MANAGEMENT OF
FRUIT TREES UNDER GLASS.

BY WILLIAM COLS,

Head Gardener, Eiling Park, Middlesex.

URING the autumn and winter months the proper manage-
ment of fruit trees under glass does not require a vast
amount of skill, yet it is of sufficient importance to admit
of attention being directed to it without any apology
being necessary. In dealing with this question it is
impossible to ignore the fact, that a very common impression prevails
to the effect that the trees are able to take care of themselves from
the time the fruit is gathered until they start into growth again.
That this impression is erroneous, all who have paid any attention
to fruit-growing will be prepared to admit ; but it is necessary to
point out its existence in justification of a large proportion of the
remarks that will follow.

One of the principal points in connection with the management
of fruit trees in the autumn is their full exposure to the weather :
when the lights can be taken oft' and the foliage exposed to the
beneficial influence of the autumnal dews and rains, a considerable
amount of labour in syringing the trees will be saved. There are a
few cultivators who yet believe in the doctrine, that after the fruit
is gathered, the red-spider should be looked upon as a blessing,
rather than as a plague. They imagine that with the maturation
of the fruit the functions of the leaves are completed, and therefore
suppose that the sooner they fall off the better, to more fully expose
the young wood to the air and light. The thorough ripening of the
wood is of considerable importance undoubtedly ; but it must be
borne in mind that the embryo flower-buds are formed in the
autumn, and that healthy foliage plays a most important part in their
formation; hence it is important to keep the leaves clean and quite
free from insect pests of any kind, until they fall naturally. When
the trees are uncovered, the rains and dews will prevent the red-
spider or thrips making much headway, and will also materially

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 269

assist in swelling up the buds. Trees growing in houses with fixed
roofs should, to compensate for the benefits they are deprived of, be
syringed at least three times a week, from this time until the end
of September ; and if at all infested with black or green fly, or with
thrips, they should be fumigated three or four times, with two days
between each operation. Trees that are uncovered should be
smoked two or three times, or more if necessary, before the lights
are taken off, provided there is the least vestige of either of the
above-mentioned pests upon them. Clear water is valuable as a
preventive, but when either the green-fly or thrips have become
firmly established, something stronger is necessary to dislodge them,
and nothing can possibly surpass tobacco smoke, when used in a
judicious manner. All fruit trees in pots should be removed to
the open, where they will have full exposure to the sun and to
the air throughout the day. The pots should be stood upon a
bed of coal-ashes to prevent the worms passing through the holes
in the bottom ; and to keep the roots cool, and ,to prevent the soil
drying up too quickly, pack some loose material, such as parti v
decayed leaves, or tan, or cocoauut-fibre refuse, between and about
the pots. With reference to winter management, it must be said
that trees do not of course require so much moisture about the
roots after they have completed their growth, as they do when
growing freely and have also a crop of fruit to support ; but at no
stage must the soil be allowed to become dust dry. Speaking in a
general way, sufficient moisture should be administered to keep the
leaves from flagging, and no more ; and in winter the soil should be
kept moderately moist only. One of the chief causes of the flower-
buds of fruit trees grown under glass dropping off prematurely, is
due to the soil being kept too dry during the winter. An excessively
high temperature in starting the trees and exposing them to sudden
changes will also cause the buds to fall off, but the most general
cause is undoubtedly dryness at the roots. A moderately thorough
soaking of water about once a month during the winter season will
suffice ; and to prevent the borders being kept in a constant state of
saturation wheu the trees are at rest, the lights should be put on
early in November. It is also worthy of remark, in connection with
this branch of the subject, that all outside borders of early bouses
should be covered early in the last-mentioned month to retain the
warmth of the soil as far as it is possible to do so. A layer of newly
gathered leaves, about fifteen or eighteen inches in thickness, and
thatched with long litter or straw, forms the most effectual covering,
as it throws off' the wet and also assists in keeping the soil warm.
It is not my intention to say anything about pruning and training,
but it will perhaps be useful to many to know, that weakly shoots
which will not be required, may be removed, if the trees are over-
crowded, and the wood that will be required for laying in, for bearing
next year's crop, will be properly matured through receiving a fair
share of light.

270 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

SCHIZANTHUS CULTI7EE FOR CONSERVATORY
DECORATION.

BY A KENTISH GABDENEE.

|EW of our half-hardy annuals are so well adapted for
pot cultivation as these useful plants. Whether they
are not generally known, or whether cultivators have
found something else to suib their taste better, it
matters not ; but certain it is they are not so exten-
sively grown as they deserve to be, for their management is so
simple that any one with a cool and light airy greenhouse can grow
them ; indeed, it is in this position they succeed the best.

The varieties known as 8. jnnnatus, 8. pinnatus Prestii, 8.
Hooker ii, and 8. Grahami, are all erect-growing kinds, and when
well done will attain the height of three or four feet. Sow the seed
on a warm border out of doors the first week in September. Sow
very thinly, and be careful to secure a proper amount of moisture
in the soil, so that the seed may soon vegetate ; for if this is
not attended to, the seed becomes parched by the action of a bright
sun or a long-continued drought. When well up, they should be
thinned out to twelve inches apart, to secure sturdy, compact-
growing plants. If kept free from weeds after this, they will take
care of themselves till the first week in October, at which time they
should be taken up with a trowel, and potted in well-drained six-
inch pots. The soil should be light, with a liberal sprinkling of
sand ; but in potting, the greatest care is required with their roots,
or they will be injured, for they are many in number, but very
slight and tender. Half-a-dozen plants of each sort will be enough
for small gardens ; but it is best to take enough, in case one or
two should be lost during the winter. When all are potted, stand
them in a cold pit or frame for a few days, or on a shady shelf in the
greenhouse ; but when well established in their pots, remove them
at once to a light airy shelf in a cool greenhouse, putting them
as near the glass as possible. In this position they will want but a
moderate supply of water during winter, for the object is to keep them
as much at rest as is consistent with safety. Imperfect drainage
is fatal to them during November and two following months, so that
they must be carefully examined if symptoms of ill-health are
perceptible, for when the soil becomes water-logged, they damp off
at the collar, and of course never recover.

As the days lengthen in the spring, and the sun's power in-
creases, they will begin to make a fresh growth, which should
be encouraged if the end cf February is near at hand, by shifting
them at once into their blooming pots. For an ordinary greenhouse,
an eight-inch pot will suffice ; for a conservatory of any pretensions,
a ten-inch pot may be used with advantage. This shift to the bloom-
ing pots is recommended, because I have found that to remove
them successively from one sized pot to the other, their roots are so

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 271

slender and delicate, that to prevent an injury in removing them i8
almost next to impossible. Neither is it desirable to do so, for when
once started again, they make rapid progress, and are all the better
for not receiving any check. Employ a moderately heavy soil for
them to bloom in ; one half of good loam, and the remaining half
some turfy soil, well mixed together. Place a neatly-trimmed stake
for the leader of each plant, which is all the training they require,
for to give more is to spoil their beauty, and if they do require it, it
is sure and certain evidence that the culture has not been good,
or they would not want it. They must have no pinchiug, but
abundauce of fresh air when the thermometer stands above 35°.
When introduced amongst the first batch of pelargoniums aud
other spring flowers, they are very effective.

ANTIRRHINUMS AND PENTSTEMONS.

BT AN AMATEUR FLORIST.

INCE the reaction which has taken place in favour of

hardy flowers, the two classes of plants named at the

head of these remarks have increased in popularity

to a wonderful extent, and to speak of the beauty of

these flowers, or otherwise extol their merits, would be

entirely out of place. This being the case, the cultural details can

be dealt with, and the names of a few of the best sorts indicated

without further preface. The improvement which has been effected

within the last few years in the flowers of both classes, has been very

marked, and it might be said with safety that all sent out more than

four or five years since are quite surpassed, and to buy them would

be little less than a waste of money. The principal improvements

we have to boast of are in the main due to the efforts of Messrs.

Downie, Laird, and Laing, of Stanstead Park Nurseries, Eorest

Hill. Messrs. E. Gr. Henderson and Son, of St. John's Wood, have

assisted in the good work by raising a series of dwarf-growino-

Antirrhinums that are certainly most valuable for flower- warden

decoration and for pot-culture. The Continental florists have also

paid considerable attention to the Pentstemon, and have sent us

over some good varieties ; but the flowers of most of the continental

varieties are too short in the tube, in proportion to their size to

satisfy the florist. The varieties raised at Forest Hill are free from

this defect, and after looking at W. E. Gumbleton, and Stanstead Rival,

two varieties sent out from thence during last spring, I have almost

come to the conclusion that further improvement is impossible. A

set of new varieties is sent out from the above-mentioned nurseries

every spring, all more or less good, and from those sent out in the

3pring of the present year, the following are such as no grower of Pent-

stemons should be without, namely : — Colonel Long, claret crimson

white throat, delicately pencilled ; Delicatissimum, pure white tinted

with bright pink ; George Amer, purplish maroon, with white throat

richly tinted with dark crimson ; John Wilson, bright rosy crimson'

272 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

pure white throat, pencilled with rose ; Lady Boswell, deep pink,
throat white, with broad margin of carmine pink ; Miss Baillie,
brilliant rosy scarlet, pure white throat, veined with scarlet; Magenta,
bright magenta, flushed with purple, the throat painted with dark
claret ; Polly King, rosy crimson, white throat, pencilled with
crimson ; Rev. C. P. Peach, purplish crimson, white throat, finely
pencilled with carmine ; Stanstead Rival, bright scarlet crimson,
pure white throat, slightly pencilled with light carmine ; W. E.
Gumbleton, deep purplish rose, throat pure white..

Those who take Pentstemons in hand for the first time should
begin with the older varieties, and the under-mentioned twenty-four
will form the best collection that could be had without the newer
varieties mentioned above ; namely, Agnes Laing, rose, white throat ;
Arthur M'Hardy, scarlet, throat white, pencilled with crimson;
Arthur Sterry, rosy purple, white throat, Black Knight, maroon,
light throat ; Candidate, purplish rose, white throat ; Colin Bell,
rosy scarlet, throat pure white, heavily painted with crimson ; Gloire
de Dennice, pink, throat light, prettily painted ; Grandis, carmine,
throat white, pencilled with crimson ; John Poio, red, white throat ;
James Rothschild, crimson purple, clear white throat ; Melanie
Lalanette, delicate rose, white throat ; Monarch, deep crimson ; Mrs.
Peter Cator, crimson, throat white, pencilled with red ; Madame
Louis Schmitzer, white, tinged with purple ; Painted Lady, rose,
throat white, painted with crimson; Purple Perfection, purplish
crimson, throat white, varied with rose ; Novelty, pink throat, painted
with crimson ; Purple King, deep purple-crimson, throat white,
veined with rose ; Purple, purple-violet, white throat, pencilled with
deep rose ; Queen Victoria, white, tinted with rose ; Rosy Gem, rosy
crimson, throat pure white ; Souvenir de Matthieu Fernet, purplish
amaranth, throat pencilled with crimson ; Stanstead Surprise, deep
purple, white throat ; Snoivdrop, pure white ; W. P. Laird, light
blue, pure white throat.

The most beautiful of the new Antirrhinums sent out by Messrs.
Downie, Laird, and Laing last spring are : — Charming, delicate
pink, prettily striped and mottled with deep rose ; Clio, yellow and
buff, mottled and striped with red ; Bitriv, white, striped and
splashed with scarlet ; Fortuna, pure white, striped with rosy
purple; Orange Boven,. brilliant crimson-scarlet, with deep orange
lips"; Queen of Crimsons, intense crimson.

The following eighteen older varieties from the seed-bed of the
same raisers are, perhaps, the most desirable of the older kinds, and
are well entitled to a place in the most select collection, namely : —
Alice, pure white, striped with rose ; Artist, purple, mottled with
white ; Bridesmaid, white, striped with rosy crimson ; Climax, rose,
striped with crimson ; Carnation, white, striped with rosy scarlet ;
Firefly, scarlet and white ; George Gordon, intense glowing crimson,
smooth and perfect; Grand JJuJce, bronze and crimson striped;
Gladiateur, white, striped with rosy scarlet ; Gazelle, sulphury
white, striped with rose ; Harlequin, French white, striped with rose ;
Leopard, light bronze yellow, striped with rosy crimson ; Mathilde,
rose, striped with dark purple ; Miss Ruth, French white, striped

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 273

with bright rose ; Mrs. M'Bonald, white, veined and splashed with
rose ; Nonpareil, white, striped with rosy crimson ; Striped Unique,
white, striped with rosy crimson ; Pretty Polly, white, marbled
with pure yellow ; The Bride, orange, striped with red ; Yellow
■Gem, bright yellow.

The following collection of dwarf-growing varieties, sent out
last year by Messrs. Henderson, are very desirable. The names
and colours are as follows : — Brunei, French white, flaked lilac ;
Coronation, white, yellow, and rose ; Crown Jewel, crimson, scarlet,
yellow ; Elegantissima, pure white, with creamy centre ; EJfrida,
white and canary yellow ; Fire King, scarlet, white and yellow ;
Gertrude, rose, buff, and yellow; Golden Drop, yellow, lemon, and
rosy scarlet ; Josephine, lilac, yellow, and purple ; Mirabile, white and
rose ; Ne plus ultra, golden yellow ; Queen of Beauties, scarlet,
purple, and orange.

The cultivation of Antirrhinums and Pentstemons differs so very
little that one set of directions will do for both. The former are
the hardiest, and reproduce themselves more faithfully from seed,
and that mode of raising a stock can be heartily recommended to
those who have an opportunity of procuring seed from a first-rate
collection. In very severe winters Antirrhinums grown in un-
favourable situations will probably suffer, but the remarks upon
wintering a stock in frames must be supposed to apply wholly to
the Pentstemons, glass being in small gardens too valuable to admit
of its being devoted to the protection of Antirrhinums.

In propagating a stock, those who prefer raising seedliugs must
commence at once, for the seed should be sown early in autumn, and
then good strong plants can be had for blooming early the following
■summer. Seed sown as late as the middle of September in pans,
•and placed in a cold frame, or under a hand-glass, will produce good
plants if pricked oft' into a bed in a rather dry and sheltered corner,
and then planted out into their permanent quarters early in the
spring. Sow in pans filled with light sandy soil, and place under
shelter until the plants are nicely up, when they can be taken out of
doors, and a few days afterwards pricked out about three inches
apart, in a bed which has been prepared by deep digging, and if the
soil is heavy, by mixing some light sandy stuff to enable them to
root quickly. Toward the end of the following February, or any
time in March, plant out in a bed of good soil, or in clumps of two
or three together, along the second row of the herbaceous border.
The plants should be not less than a foot apart, whether in beds or
clumps, so as to give them sufficient room to develop themselves,
but a space of eighteen inches will be preferable.

The cuttings can be struck during this and next month, or early in
the spring ; but the present season is preferable, because they can be
struck without the assistance of artificial heat, and the plants come
into bloom much earlier in the season. When the cuttings are
struck, they can be kept in a cold frame through the winter, or
treated exactly the same as the seedlings. As the young plants are
rather tender, and consequently susceptible to injurious influences,
damp being one of their greatest enemies, it ds well to give them

vol. vi. — so. IX. 18

274 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

every opportunity of resisting it, by selecting a dry sheltered position
for the transplanting bed. A dressing of leaf-mould should be
applied in addition to the sandy stuff mentioned "when speaking of
the seedlings.

The varieties mentioned above will make a glorious bed, if mixed
with due regard to their various heights and colours, and the effect
produced will be quite equal to that capable of being produced by
any other class of plants. The beds should be prepared by trench-
ing them deeply, and working in at the same time a liberal dressing
of thoroughly-decayed manure and leaf-mould. Where the plants
are to be turned out singly, or in clumps of three together, in the
mixed borders, the ground should be dug up deeply where they are
to be planted, and a few spits of manure added. Few plants will
pay much better for liberal treatment than those we have under
consideration. The superiority of the spikes and individual flowers,
when the plants have a little attention, over those produced by others
planted without the soil undergoing any preparation, will be so
apparent as to repay the little time and labour expended more than
a hundredfold. The flower-spikes should be removed immediately
the beauty of the flowers is over, unless it is intended to save seed,
and those which flower early will throw up flower-spikes a second
time. In an extra sharp winter it is advisable to cover the old
stools with coal-ashes, but it should be removed before the plants
start into growth.

The plants raised from cuttings struck in autumn may be put in
three-inch pots, and wintered in a frame with just sufficient protec-
tion to prevent the frost doing them any harm. Planted out as early
in February as the state of the weather and condition of the soil will
permit, they will soon become established, and produce an abundance
of bloom throughout the summer, if the old flower-spikes are
removed when it becomes necessary.

FLOWEKING PLANTS FOE TABLE DECOEATIOK

BY J. W. SILVEE,
Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton.

|jN The Florae World for June a list of plants with
ornamental foliage, adapted for dinner-table decoration,
was given, and a promise made that a list of flowering
plants, suitable for the same purpose, should follow.
It would, perhaps, have been more satisfactory if the
list had been given in the issue for the following month, but the
demands upon our time during the exhibition season are so great
and every moment is so occupied, that very little time is spared for
writing. We will commence with

STOYE PLANTS.

Anthueitjms. — One of the most useful and effective flowering

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 275

plants adapted for the embellishment of the dinner-table is the well-
known Anthurium Scherzerianum. It is certainly the most useful
of its class, on account of the brilliancy of its vermilion red spathes,
and also for the length of time they remain in good condition. It
succeeds well in a compost consisting of equal parts fibrous peat
and sphagnum moss, to which may be added a liberal proportion of
broken crocks, charcoal, and silver-sand. The pots in which the
plants are put should be perfectly clean and well drained, and in
potting it is desirable to place on the top of the crocks a layer of
the roughest of the compost, sufficiently thick to bring the ball of
the plant level with the rim of the pot. When this is done spread
out the roots of the plant carefully, and then pack the remaining
compost about them. Tbe soil should be built up in a convex form,
so as to elevate the base of the plant about three inches above the
rim of the pot. Covering the surface with growing sphagnum,
gives the whole a fresh and pleasing appearance, and materially
assists in retaining a certain degree of moisture about the foliage.

Etjcharis. — The lovely JE. Amazonica, when well grown and
flowered, is very effective. A stove temperature is required through-
out the winter, but during the summer months the temperature of a
close greenhouse will be sufficient. To over-estimate its value is diffi-
cult, for it may be had in flower three or four times throughout the
year. The most desirable way of growing specimens for the table is to
place three bulbs in a six-inch pot, and keep them in a shady part
of the house until rooted into the soil. When well established,
lessen the supply of water, and expose them to the light, but it is
not necessary during the season of rest to withhold water altogether.
At the same time, it will, perhaps, be well to say that only enough is
required to keep the foliage from flagging. In about four or five weeks
increase the supply of water, and the flower-spikes will soon make
their appearance, and, by judiciously acting upon the advice here
given, a constant supply of flower may be secured throughout the
whole season. Frequent shifts are not necessary, but when in
active growth a little weak manure-water may be advantageously
given. Use a compost of two-thirds silky loam, and^one-third well-
decayed cow-manure, with a moderate addition of silver-sand, and
let the pots be well drained.

Thyrsacanthus. — The graceful growing T. rutilans is charming
as a table plant when grown properly. Young plants in five-inch
pots are preferable, and cuttings struck in the early part of the
spring, and grown on vigorously, will make beautiful little specimens
by the autumn. The terminal point should be pinched out of the
main shoot when only a few inches high, to induce them to break
and form bushy specimens. It is also important to keep the plants
near the glass to prevent their becoming drawn up weakly. The
most suitable compost is prepared by well incorporating together
one-third each of good turfy loam, fibry peat, and leaf-mould, and
then adding a liberal proportion of silver sand.

Gesnera. — Zebrina, Refulgens, and Exoniensis are the best
varieties for the dinner-table, as the foliage is very beautiful, as well
as the flowers being showy and attractive. The successful culture

276 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

materially depends upon obtaining a full development of growth
previous to the period they should be in bloom. This can be most
effectually secured by giving tbe assistance of a genial bottom-heat
during the growing period. When the growth is matured, the
plants coming into bloom may be moved to a drier atmosphere in
the stove, and they can then be used for the decoration of the dinner
table, as required. As a rule, a stunted growth and poor spikes of
bloom may be attributable to the want of a brisk temperature, com-
bined with a moist atmosphere, and a free exposure to light during
the spring and early summer months. Put from six to eight tubers
in a five-inch pot, and handsome specimens will be produced with
very little trouble. Almost any light rich soil will suit them, but
one-third each of loam, peat, and leaf-mould, and a mixture of plenty
of silver sand will suit them best.

Jtjsticia. — When well bloomed, and the foliage well developed,
J. carnea is exceedingly useful for table decoration. Young plants
are preferable, and the same treatment as advised for the Thyrsa-
canthus will grow the Justicia well. Great attention must be paid
to the plants when in vigorous growth, as it is most important to
have them as dwarf and compact as possible.

The above selection does not by any means exhaust the list of
plants suitable for the dinner-table, but it will be quite sufficient for
medium-sized establishments.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

I will now proceed to mention a few subjects which may be
cultivated in a greenhouse.

Chinese Primrose. — The most effective are the red and white
single varieties. The striped varieties, and those having flowers of
an intermediate shade, are not so effective. To insure a stock of
large-sized plants, sow the seed in the beginning of May, and grow
steadily on throughout the summer. Pot them in a moderately
light and rather rich compost, and keep them near the glass.

Fuchsias. — These, trained as pyramids, from one foot to eighteen
inches high, produce a very pleasing effect. It is important to
select suitable varieties, and for the table I consider the following
to be the best six : — Wave of Life, Avalanche, Marvellous, Enchan-
tress, Souvenir de CMswick, and Rose of Castile.

Saltia. — The brilliant-flowered S. splendens may also be men-
tioned as being exceedingly bright and telling, as it blooms when
flowers are generally scarce. Cuttings struck early in the spring,
and then grown on freely in a warm greenhouse, and near the
glass, will produce fine medium-sized specimens by the autumn.

Cyclamen. — The varieties of C. persicum are certainly unsur-
passed amongst greenhouse flowering plants. Specimens with an
abundance of flower should be used. Those with deep red and
white, with red base, are the most effective. Their cultivation has
been so fully described in past issues of the Floral World, that
it is not necessary for me to do more than direct attention to their
adaptability for the decoration of the dinner-table.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

277

SUPPLEMENTAEY NOTE ON FINE FOLIAGE PLANTS.

Mauantas. — In the paper on ornamental-leaved plants, the
mention of this beautiful genus was accidentally omitted, and I now
propose to supply the deficiency. Marantas can be grown to any
desired size without difficulty, but the specimens grown in five or
six inch pots will be the most useful. They are all very readily
propagated by division just as they are beginning to make new
growth. To do this without materially injuring the plants, turn
them out of the pots carefully, loosen and separate the roots with
the hand, and then divide the crowns with a sharp knife. Trim the
roots a little if they require trimming, and put each portion into o
five or six inch pot, and if convenient, partly plunge the pots in a

MAKANTA ZEBRINA.

genial bottom-heat, and where the plants will enjoy the assistance
of a moderately moist atmosphere. A light open compost, consisting
of equal parts turfy loam, fibry peat, and leaf-mould, and a sixth
part of silver-sand, will grow them to perfection. They should
also be grown in a shady part of the stove, as the foliage when
exposed to the sun during the summer loses that fresh velvety
appearance for which it is remarkable. M. zebrina and M.
Warseewicr.i are the two most useful for the table, because of their
graceful habit of growth, which is so well shown in the accom-
panying illustration. If. rosea-picta, M. Veitchi, M. fasciata, M.
imperialism and several others, may be employed for the same pur-
pose, but the two first-named are the best, and they are moreover
cheap, and within the reach of all who have a stove in which to
cultivate them. s- g - --;'PhL)

178 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

NEW NOTES ON PEOPAGATING BEDDING PLANTS.

BY JOHN WA.LSBT.

jlEOPA GATING a stock of bedding plants is not so great
a labour as many amateurs imagine, yet it is sufficiently
difficult to make a heavy tax on the time and attention
of those who have not much practical knowledge of the
matter. Eor the assistance of this class of flower
gardeners I purpose giving a few practical directions upon propagat-
ing the various classes of bedding plants now in the greatest request,
and as they will be couched in the plainest terms possible, they can-
not fail to be useful.

Geraniums. — These are well entitled to have precedence over all
other classes of bedders ; for in dry seasons nothing can equal them,
and they thrive and flower abundantly in the poorest soils. The
object of these remarks is not to advocate the claims of bedding
geraniums, but to show the way to propagate a stock with the least
possible trouble. It is utterly unnecessary to put cuttings of any
of the varieties in frames or under glass of any kind. Indeed it is
objectionable, because they do not strike so freely as when inserted
in the open border. The first steps it will be necessary to take will
be to select a south border or an open quarter, and break up the
ground and mark it out in three feet beds. When this is done, make
the surface smooth and firm with the spade. The object of dividing
the border into beds is simply to enable us to go between the bed3
to remove the dead leaves when required, and give the cuttings any
other little attention that may be necessary. If the soil is heavy, it
is as well to mix a little river sand or other gritty substance with the
surface soil. In ordinary loams this is not required. The beds
being ready, the cuttings are inserted and made firm ; and after they
are all put in, they have one good watering to settle everything in
its place, which is all the assistance the}r will receive from the
watering-pot until they are taken up and potted. The cuttings are
put in about an inch apart in the rows, and the rows are about four
inches from each other.

In turning our attention to the preparation of the cuttings, it is
necessary to say the cuttings should be taken from the beds in such
a manner as not to spoil their appearance. At this time of the year,
the cuttings must be cut rather long, so as to have a portion of rather
firm wood towards the bottom. When the portion inserted in the
soil is too soft and sappy, it soon rots, and the cuttings are conse-
quently lost. All the leaves with the exception of two or three at
the top should be removed, for many years' experience proves that
they root quicker than when they are burdened with too much foliage.
The leaves soon die off, and injure the other leaves, and in wet
weather very often rot the growing point of the cutting itself, if not
removed.

As a rule it is desirable to take cuttings up directly they have
roots half an inch long. They recover from the shift quicker, and do

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 279

not feel it so much when moved at this stage, or when just callused,
as they do when left to become thoroughly rooted aud grow wild
before being taken up. Thousands of geraniums are wintered in
boxes and pans, but, to tell the truth, I must say that I never liked
it so well as keeping them in pots, for the reason that those round
the side grow away strong, and half smother those in the centre,
many of which towards the spring are of very little use, whilst the
others have every opportunity of growing too rank, through having
too large a feeding ground. A plan found to answer well, is to pnt
three plants in three-inch pots, keep them there until February, and
then pot off singly. There is not much fear of one smothering the
other; and quite as many plants can be stowed away in a given space
when potted this way as when they are put in boxes or pans.

When they are potted off, stand the pots out of doors on a hard
bottom until the appearance of frost renders it dangerous for the
plants to remain without protection. Where the plants are to re-
main in pits and frames through the winter, whether heated or not,
if the structures are ready for their reception, it is as well to place
them in their proper places at once, and take the lights entirely away
until the coldness of the weather renders it necessary to put them
on again. This saves the trouble of a second shift. All the gera-
niums should have no more water through the winter than is neces-
sary to keep them alive, unless it is thought desirable to place them
in heat for propagating. In that case, they will require the applica-
tion of that element in proportion to the heat of the house in which
they are.

The above remarks apply with equal force to the section with
variegated leaves, and it is more important to strike these out of
doors than the green leaves, for they are more difficult to strike in
pots than the last-mentioned. The variegates should be kept on the
greenhouse shelves through the winter, for damp so soon catches
them ; the green-leaved kinds will do very well in a dry pit, if it has
the advantage of sufficient piping to dry up the damp and keep out
frost. It is, however, much the best to keep them all as quiet as
possible through the winter, and then, when the young plants are
potted off in the spring, they start away vigorously, and make grand
plants for turning out when the proper time comes for their being
transferred to their summer quarters.

Calceolarias. — Though these valuable bedders suffer very
severely in dry seasons, we must not discard them. They will no
doubt regain a considerable share of their popularity this season, as
the past summer has been so favourable to them. It is too early to
begin propagating these yet ; and they ought to be left; until the end
of the present month. Prom the end of the month until the middle
of the next, a better time could not possibly be had. The wood is
in a much better condition for emitting roots about that period than
earlier in the season. Take the cutting with three joints, cut it
close under the bottom one, from which the pair of leaves are
removed, and cut the top leaves, if large, about half off. This
enables the foliage to stand up stiff, instead of falling about, as is
the case when the foliage is left its whole length. Calceolarias are

280 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

much better when grown in the cold frame through the winter than
they are in heated structures. They make better plants, and are
ready for turning out earlier in the season, and are consequently
better able to become established before the dry hot weather sets in.
We never take much trouble with them, but make up a bed of soil
about six inches in depth in a frame or turf-pit, and mix a little
thoroughly-decomposed dung with the loam, and sprinkle sand
over the surface, and give it a good watering. The cuttings are put
in about an inch apart every way, and after another watering the
operation is completed. The lights are put on and a mat thrown
over them in bright weather. They will require very little water
besides a sprinkle with the syringe to keep the foliage fresh when
they are first put in. So soon as the cuttings can bear air, give a
little at first, and afterwards as much as the weather will allow, for
by this time we shall be in the midst of winter. In the spring,
they can either be potted up into three-inch pots, or, what is better,
planted out in a bed of good soil in a cold frame ; or, failing that, a
temporary one may be erected with a few boards for the sides, and
strips of wood across to keep the mats, with which the frame will
require to be covered, from falling on and breaking the plants.
Plants ti'eated this way will come up with good balls of soil and
take root in the fresh soil much better than those kept in pots ;
such, at least, has been my experience with them.

Violas. — A fresh stock of these should be propagated every
year, for the plants become weedy if left in the beds the second
season. They must not be coddled, and the best way of dealing with
them is to put in the cuttings during the first or second week in the
present month, in a cold frame, in boxes. Then early in the spring
plant them out as suggested for the calceolarias, and plant out early.
The frame must not be kept shut up during the winter, excepting in
very damp or frosty weather, or mildew will be developed and a
large proportion of the stock will perish. Flowers of sulphur dusted
over the foliage will be the best means of checking mildew after it
makes its appearance.

Miscellaneous Beddees. — Under this heading will be included
the whole of the other remaining subjects which require attention
at this season, such as Verbenas, Heliotropes, Variegated Alyssum,
Petunias, dwarf Lobelias, and other plants of a similar character.
The general way is to strike this class in the autumn, in a cold
frame, and frequently with very good results, but I have long
been convinced that it is by no means the best. Nothing equals a
mild hotbed for placing the cuttings on after they are inserted in
the cutting-pot. "When there is plenty of time, room, and cuttings,
this is not of much importance ; but where there are no more of
these things than is just sufficient, a mild hotbed will repay itself
twentyfold in a much larger proportion of rooted cuttings than
would be the case were they placed in a cold frame. The cuttings
should be removed to colder quarters directly they are rooted, for it
is impossible to keep them too stocky. The pots require filling
with light sandy soil, a layer of sand on the top, and a good drainage
at the bottom. Five or six inch pots or shallow pans are the best

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 281

size to use. Watering and shading must of necessity be attended
to, but guard against overdoing either. Plants of the above-
mentioned subjects are best kept in a cool, dry, airy house through
the winter, with just sufficient heat to keep out the frost and dry up
all superfluous moisture in damp weather. Dust the foliage with
sulphur immediately mildew makes its appearance, and fumigate
with tobacco paper if greenfly or thrips show any signs of infesting
the plants. Lobelia speciosa can be raised pretty true from seed,
and with careful selection the plants will come so true that it woi-ild
require a sharp eye to know whether they had been raised from seed
or cuttings. To save seed, pick out about half a dozen plants that
combine all the qualities of a good Lobelia, and the produce is always
good. The varieties of Speciosa and also of Pumila must be raised
from cuttings. If cuttings are scarce, cut a few plants down ; they
will soon commence to make new growth and furnish an abundance
of cuttings. To avoid interfering with the arrangements in the
flower garden, a few plants of each kind should be planted in a shady
corner, and then there will be no difficulty in the matter. A close
observance of the few rules here laid down, in combination with an
ordinary amount of common sense, will not fail to produce the most
satisfactory result, and it will be entirely the cultivator's own fault if
he fails to realize his highest anticipations.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

|g"'gS'nS?^MHE intense heat with which the early part of the August
Si& Rifl was characterized has had a most beneficial effect upon
js|ta W&jk the crops of the farm and the garden with but few
BilJIsyl exceptions, and lias been most favourable to the in-
mm gathering of the harvest.

At page 184, after a wide range of observation, extending over
almost all parts of the country, I expressed an opinion to the effect
that there would be fair crops of almost all kinds of fruit, and I am
glad to find that my anticipations have been fully realized. Some
crops in certain districts have failed altogether, and the same crops
in others have been altogether as good.

Since my last notes no exhibitions of importance have been held
in the metropolis, excepting the supplementary Rose Show, which
was in every way a grand success. Several important exhibitions
have been held in the provinces, notably those at Glastonbury and
Taunton, two important districts in the west of England, and it is
impossible to give an adequate idea of the enthusiasm which per-
vaded all classes in the districts on the show-days ; and the display
of horticultural produce was grand in the extreme. Particulars of
either of these exhibitions would be out of place here, but it may be
said with justice that each and all of the exhibitors acquitted them-
selves well. In the list of prize-takers the name of a respected and
valuable contributor to the Floral World, Mr. J. "W. Silver, head
gardener to J. B. Saunders, Esq., of Taunton, was conspicuous by
reason of its appearing against the first prize in so many classes

282 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Perhaps some day or other Mr. Silver will tell us how he managed
to bring to such marvellous perfection the exotic ferns in the great
open class for ten. The specimen of Adiantum Farley ense, exhibited
by Mr. Silver in the first prize group of six fine foliage plants, was
one of the best ever seen, and the finest specimen fern in the
exhibition.

The display of roses at the Crystal Palace on the occasion of the
supplementary exhibition was not quite so extensive as on the occa-
sion of the great rose show in June; but the blooms were, on the
whole, much finer, and presented a much fresher appearance. The
leading trade and amateur growers put in an appearance, but it is
unnecessary here to particularize the exhibitors or give the names
of any of the varieties shown excepting of those in the stands of
sixty single trusses exhibited by Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt,
and Mr. B. B. Cant, Colchester, who were first and second. The best
blooms in the first prize collection were those of Alfred Colomb,
Baroness Bothschild, Comtesse d' Oxford, Marquise de Castellane,
Francoise Trevye, Mrs. Charles Wood, Elie Morel, Paul Neron, a
showy rose, but two coarse for exhibition, Xavier Olibo, Perfection
de Lyon, John Hopper, Captain Lamare, distinct in colour, but not
first-rate in form ; Madlle. Marie Wood, Madame Caillat, Mrs. G.
Paul, Marechal Vaillant, Marie Baumann, Alice Dareau, Senateur
Vaisse, Celine Forestier, Antoine Ducher, Madlle. Marie Bady,
Edward Morren, La France, L'Abbe Griraudier, Abel Grand, Madame
Boutin, Beine du Midi, Souvenir de Mons. Boll, Beauty of Waltham,
Charles Bouillard, Leopold Hausberg, Gloire de Vitry, Gloire de
Santenay, Wardy Freres, Maurice Bernardin, Sophie Cocquerell,
Leopold I., Devoniensis, Black Prince, Marechal Kiel, Pierre
Notting, Emile Hausberg, Due de Bohan, La Beine. Madame Victor
Verdier, Comte de Nanteuil, Camille Bernardin. Madame Laurent.
In the collection from Mr. Cant occurred exceptionally fine blooms
of Ferdinand de Lesseps, Prince de Portia, Senateur Vaisse, Maurice
Bernardin, Louis van Houtte, Edward Morren, Camille Bernardin,
Pierre Notting, Mons. Joineaux, Exposition de Brie, Duchesse de
Caylus, Devienne Larny, Victor Verdier, Christine Nilsson, Maurice
Bernardin, Therese Levet, La Ville de St. Denis. Comtesse de
Chabrilland, Horace Vernet, and Madame Clemence Joigneaux.

Very liberal prizes were offered for dinner-table decorations; but
they were far below what they should have been. The tables were
mostly over-decorated, and with but few exceptions, the exhibitors
appeared to have entirely overlooked the simple fact of space
being required for such things as plates, glasses, etc., and other
accessories of the dinner table !

The exhibition of Zonal Geraniums, held at South Kensington,
August 2nd, was to all but regular Geranium fanciers a very tame
affair, no prizes being offered for collections of established kinds
of any but the variegated varieties. The most noticeable advance
in any class was thai, shown in the class for Bronze Zonals, in which
Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, Stanstead Park Nursery, Forest
Hill, were first with Marshal McMalton, a variety which is perfectly
distinct from, and superior to, all existing varieties. The leaves are

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 283

large and leathery, of the finest possible form, and the zone, which
is verv broad, and laid on with most mathematical precision, is of the
most intense chocolate hue. Except for a regulation which ous;ht
never to have existed, they would have been second with the Bev.
C. P. Peach, a very fine variety, with broad chestnut- red zone on a
clear golden-yellow ground. They also exhibited a collection of
seedling varieties, many of them being exceptionally good, and spe-
cimens taken from the open border of Imperatrice Eugenie, Black
Douglas, and Reine Victoria, all of which are grand bedders.

In the class for the best Golden Zonal, Mr. C. Turner was first
with Miss Morris, a magnificent variety, with medium-sized and
most richly-coloured leaves, the zone being broad, well defined, and
of the most brilliant carmine hue. Messrs. J. Carter and Co. were
second with Prince of Wales, which still remains one of the best in
cultivation ; and Messrs. Bell and Thorpe, Stratford-on-Avon, were
third with Macbeth, also first-rate, but upon this occasion not pre-
sented in good condition.

Mr. Turner was also first for a Silver Zonal with Mrs. Bausby, a
most valuable acquisition to its class. The leaves are of medium
size, and the zone, which is broad and well-defined, is of the most
lively carmine hue.

Only two Silver Variegated varieties were staged, and the first
prize was awarded to Mr. Pestridge, Uxbridge, for Blushing Bride, a
useful free-grower, with white-tinted flowers. The second prize was
taken by Mr. Turner, with Miss Kingsbury, an old variety, now
proved to be one of the best of its class for bedding purposes in
existence.

W. R. Morris, Esq., offered two prizes for the best sir seedling
Golden Zonals, and one for the best single specimen selected from
the competing groups of six. Both first prizes were carried off by
Messrs. Downie, Laird, and Laing, who, it is worthy of remark, have
only taken this section in hand during the past two years.

The competition in the classes for varieties grown for their
flowers was rather spirited, and several good kinds in the respective
classes were staged. For the best Zonal the first prize was taken by
Mr. Mann, Brentwood, with Triumph, a fine variety with large
flowers of fine form and of a deep scarlet crimson hue ; and the
second by Mr. C. Turner, with Madame Jules Elysse, a Continental
variety with clear salmon flowers, tinted with vermilion. Mr.
Turner was also first for an ivy-leaved variety with Willsi ; and
Mr. Macintosh, Hammersmith, occupied the second place with large
well-flowered specimens of the old white-flowered Ivy-leaf. Messrs.
Bell and Thorpe were first for the best Double Zonal with Miss
Evelyn, a grand variety with pink flowers ; and for Nosegays they
were first with Charles Dickens, rosy scarlet tinted with purple,
quite distinct in colour, and valuable both for bedding and pot
culture. The second prize for Doubles was carried off by Messrs.
J. Carter and Co. with well-flowered examples of Charles Glym;
and the second prize for Nosegays by Mr. H. Cannell, Woolwich,
wit!, Master Christine, the best of a", with flowers of a rosy pink hue.

New Picotees were shown rather extensively by Mr. Norman,

284 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

78, Crescent Eoad, Plumstead, and Messrs. "Wood and Ingram,
Huntingdon. The former was granted first-class certificates for
3Irs. Ingleton, light-edged red, and Ada Ingleton, light-edged purple,
and Charles Williams, heavy-edged red ; and the last-mentioned
firm received similar awards for Delicata, light-edged purple, and
Miss F. Ingram, heavy-edged red.

First-class Certificates were conferred upon Dracaena Fraseri, a
strong-growing species, with large bronzy leaves distinctly margined
with bright carmine, exhibited by Mr. Fraser, Lea Bridge ; and upon
Juniperus chinensis aurea, a very beautiful and constant variety of
this well-known conifer, in habit exactly resembling the normal form ,
but the young growth is tipped with deep golden yellow ; exhibited
by Mr. M. Young, Godalming.

The Gladioli show at Kensington, although not very extensive,
was remarkably bright and attractive. The leading trade growers
were Messrs. Kelway and Son, of Langport, and Mr. Douglas,
gardener to F. Whitbourne, Esq., Loxford Hall, Ilford. The
varieties staged by Messrs. Kelway and Son in the open class for
twenty-four were — Benon, Clarissa, Lacepede, B. C. Tucker, Eobert
Fortune, Ophir, Orphee, Le Gouve, Virginie, Phidias, Luna, Lord
Bridport, Yeletes, Adolphe, Brongniart, Yellow King, Madame Vil-
morin, Curipede, Eival, Archelaus, Aristophanes, Lady Bridport,
Astrea, and Araxineus. The following new varieties were shown and
awarded first-class certificates. By Messrs. Kelway and Son, Lord
Bridport, blush tinted pink, lower petals lightly blotched with
maroon-crimson ; Hogarth, blush feathered with purple ; Pictum,
pink painted with vermilion ; and Julian, blush feathered with deep
purple ; Archelaus, white, lightly feathered and tinted at the edge
with pink; Yelloio King, creamy-yellow, ground striped with car-
mine edge ; Astrea, deep glowing scarlet, with small violet feathers ;
Araxineus, vermilion, throat lightly feathered with purplish rose;
Phidias, deep glowing purplish rose tinted with violet ; wonderfully
rich and telling; Lady Bridport, blush-pink, small feather of deep
crimson ; this was not awarded a certificate, but it was one of the
very finest of the seedlings. By Mr. Douglas, Mrs. Francis Whit-
bourne, blush, feathered with violet-crimson, and striped at the edges
with reddish carmine; Talisman, purplish crimson, with light rose
centre ; William Farley, creamy-yellow ground, striped with bright
reddish carmine.

Hollyhocks were also shown well at the Gladioli exhibition,
although the competition in none of the classes was very spirited.
Several good stands were however staged. The first prize for six
spikes was awarded to Mr. W. Chater, Saffron Walden, with superb
examples of Fair Helen, Hercules, Majestic, Peri, Fascination, and
Bullion. Mr. Chater also exhibited fine spikes of Othello, Queen of
Yellows, Cygnet, Marmion, and Alexander. Mr. Chater was also first
with a stand of twenty-four single blooms, comprising well-finished
examples of Nonpareil, Walden Primrose, Majestic, Splendidum,
Alfred Chater, Constance, William Brand, Mochana, Monarch, Joy,
Conquest, Eclipse, Carus Chater, Invincible, Prince Alfred, Levia-
than, Bridesmaid, Champion, Competitor, Incomparable, and Fred

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 285

Chater. Messrs. Paul and Son second. Only one stand of blooms
from an amateur grower was contributed, and they were poor.

The principal exhibitors at the Metropolitan shows are well
nigh worn out with the strain upon them, occasioned by the fre-
quency with which the shows are held ; and a short time since they
held a meeting at Anderton's Hotel, for the purpose of appointing a
committee to consult with the leading societies in reference to fixing
the exhibitions for next year. A very general opinion prevails
amongst exhibitors, that if each society were to hold one good exhibi-
tion, it would be better for every one. G. G.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR SEPTEMBER.

Elower Garden. — Plant out layers and pipings of Carnations,
Pinks, and Picotees as soon as they are well rooted. Select an open
situation, and dig the ground up deeply before planting. Divide
and replant Daisies and Polyanthuses for spring bedding, if not
already done. Look after Dahlias, and support them with stakes as
it becomes necessary, and protect from earwigs by setting traps.
Pill a few small pots with moss, and turn them bottom upwards
upon the stakes used in supporting the branches. Seedling her-
baceous plants ought to be strong by this time, and ready for
planting out; but there is yet time for sowing seed, if still undone.
Transplant evergreens, and propagate either by cuttings or layers.
With the aid of favourable weather, turf laid now will become nicelv
established by winter. Pinish the propagation of the stock of
bedding plants as quickly as possible.

Kitchen Garden. — Thin the winter crop of Turnips to the
proper distance apart, and the Spinach slightly, if too thick. Hoe
the ground between the rows to destroy every vestige of weed before
it has time to seed, and thus render it unnecessary to tread the
ground when in a soft state from the autumn rains. Plant out a
good breadth of the Green Curled, and Broad-leaved Batavian
Endive, and Brown Cos and Drumhead Cabbage Lettuce for the
winter. Tie up for blanching those sufficiently advanced. Take
up and store Potatoes, and the Onions not sufficiently matured for
taking up last month. Make an elevated bed for the reception of a
frame to receive the Cauliflower plants to stand over the winter.
Hand-lights and ground vineries are invaluable adjuncts to the
kitchen garden for protecting young plants of various crops, and
for preserving Lettuce, Endive, and many other things after they
have reached maturity. Plant out the main crop of Cabbage for
spring use at a distance of two feet apart, and insert a strong Cole-
wort plant between each four, to draw during the winter. Sowr
Chervil, Corn Salad, and Radishes for a late supply. Earth up
Celery and Leeks, selecting a dry day for that purpose.

Pruit Garden. — Expose the fruit on wall-trees to the light by
removing the leaves which overshadow it. Early Apples and Pears

286 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

must be gathered as soon as the stalk parts readily from the tree,
and placed in the fruit-rootn until fit for the table : for, when allowed
to remain on the trees until ready for consumption, they lose their
fine brisk flavour, and eat flat. Some of the Pear-trees will have
pushed again ; cut the shoots recently made back to within three
leaves of their base. Pyramidal and cordon trees that are making
a strong growth require root-pruning ; the end of this month, or as
soon as the crop is gathered, is the best time for performing that
operation. When doue early, they make fresh roots, and become
re-established before the winter. Fresh plantations of Strawberries
may still be made with a considerable chance of success, but such
heavy crops of fruit must not be expected as from those planted
early last month.

Conservatory. — Plants that have tender constitutions, like
Heaths, Epacris, Chorozemas, etc., must soon have the shelter of
the greenhouse or pit. Give the structures intended for their
winter quarters a thorough cleansing, and whitewash the walls with
hot lime previously to bringing the plants indoors. Pay particular
attention to the roots with respect to moisture ; and, whilst guarding
against keeping them too wet, see that they do not suffer from
drought. Shift on Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Primulas as the
case demands. Those intended for earl}r flowering must go into
their flowering-pots at once, if they have not yet received their final
shift. Place Fuchsias, as they go out of flower, outside for a week
or ten days, to insure the wood being well matured before packing
them away for the winter.

Stove. ■ — Nearly all the summer-flowering occupants of this
structure have now completed their growth, and require more light
and air, and less warmth than they have been receiving lately. They
should, therefore, be placed in the coolest end of the house, and
winter-flowering subjects, such as Gesneras, Justicias, Poinsettias,
Thyrsacanthus, etc., must have every encouragement for acquiring
strength before the light declio.es too much. Orchidaceous plants
must also have free exposure to the light, to effect a thorough matu-
ration of the newly-made pseudo-bulbs ; and unless that is done,
few flowers next season must be expected. Withhold the syringe
after the beginning of the month, unless in exceptional cases, and
maintain the necessary atmospheric humidity by sprinkling the
floors.

Forcing. — Pines swelling their fruit must have liberal encou-
ragement ; the temperature should range from 80° to 90°, with a
bottom-heat of 85°. Reduce the temperature, and ventilate some-
what liberally, even if extra fire-heat becomes necessary. Give all
the air possible to Vines from which the crop has been gathered, and
keep the atmosphere dry in houses in which the grapes are hanging.
Those just colouring also require plenty of air, even if artificial
warmth is required to maintain the proper temperature. Young
Cucumber plants must be raised at once, where a supply is re-
quired throughout the winter. Melons ripening must have extra
warmth to finish them off quickly, or they will be insipid and
flavourless.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 287

Pits and Frames. — Pot off intermediate stocks in good turfy-
loam, mixed with a liberal proportion of rotten manure and leaf-
mould. Sow Mignonette for late work, and thin that already up to
about five plants to each five or six-inch pot. Give abundance of
air to cuttings of bedding plants that are rooted, and draw the
lights off altogether when thoroughly established.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Planting Spring-Flowering Bulbs. — A Subscriber, Harrogate. — Although
very frequently done, it is not good practice to plant hyacinths, tulips, and crocuses
in the same bed, because they flower at different periods, and at one time the beds
present the appearance of pictures without frames, and at another frames without
a picture. Planting several classes of bulbs in the same bed is only advisable when
the arrangements of each class are made independent of each other. The bulbs can
be planted rather close together, and a distinct arrangement of hyacinths, tulips,
and crocuses may be made iii the bed. You would then have a display of crocuses
first, followed by the hyacinths and tulips. If this cannot be done conveniently,
plant each bed with a distinct class of bulbs. All beds intended to be planted with
spring-flowering bulbs should be planted with dwarf-growing plants, such as
Forget-me-nots, Arabis green or variegated, Alyssum saxatile, Daisies, and the
golden-tipped Stonecrop, for the purpose of giving them a bright and cheerful
appearance during the winter, and to bring out the flowers of the bulbous plants to
better advantage during the spring months. Those who have hitherto been accus-
tomed to beds of hyacinths and tulips planted in the usual manner, will be
astonished with the wonderfully superior effect produced when they are in bloom.
It is practically impossible to have all the bulbs mentioned in your letters in bloom
at the same time.

Raising Pelargoniums from Seed. — An Amateur, Huddersfield. — The whole
subject was exhausted in a series of papers which appeared in the Floral World
for February, April, June, and July, I860. The numbers may be obtained from the
publishers, or through a bookseller.

Weather Guide. — A. H. — We are much obliged by your offer, but are unable
to accept it. Judging from the forecast of the summer quarter, we are afraid you
will not do much towards proving " that it is possible to foretell the character of the
weather months beforehand."

Banksian Roses.— D. — The simplest and safest way to deal with the young
plants is to leave them where they are until the early part of November, and then
plant them in their permanent quarter.

Making New Lawns.— J". F".— Spergula will form a capital lawn, but it requires
careful management, especially when first planted, hence it is that it is seldom seen.
Lawns can be laid down with grass seed, and, in some cases, eventually surpass
those laid down with turf. The ground requires careful preparation, and seeds of
suitable grasses must be sown. The mixtures of lawn-grasses sold by respectable
firms are in every way suitable, and if you specify the size of the plot to be laid
down in giving the order, you will have the proper quantity sent.

Seedling Auriculas.—^ Young Florist. —Seedling Auriculas that are now
strong should be potted separately in small pots, in a light mixture of loam from
retted turves two parts, clean leaf-mould two parts, thoroughly decomposed hotbed
dung one part, and silver-sand one part. In this mixture they will winter well, and
may be shifted into larger pots early in the spring, when they first begin to move.
A simpler way of wintering is to plant them out in a bed five inches apart, so
arranged that a frame can be put over them for the winter. Many will show bloom
in the spring, and the best of such may be potted to keep ; the worst are to be
weeded out and destroyed. If any of them throw up blooms this autumn, pick the
blooms out ; autumn blooming should never be allowed. Unless they are crowding
each other, it will be better to wait another week before potting them.

288 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Gladioli in Pots. — R. K., Kensington. — Gladioli in pots should be kept
growing in the open air until their leaves begin to wither, and then it is well to lay
the pots on their sides near a wall or fence facing south, to ripen off the bulbs. If
treated in this way they will bloom finely next year, but if the leaves are prernaturply
destroyed, or the bulbs are kept too wet when they ought to be ripening, they will,
perhaps, perish next year, instead of blooming Treat Watsouias in the same way.

Amateur. — The Floral World for 1862 and 1863 is not to be had at present
bound together in one volume, but can be supplied bound in two distinct volumes.
A few copies of the volumes for 1867 and 1868 are still to be had, price 7s. 6d.
each, but the numbers for January and February, 1866, being quite out of piint,
the publishers are unable to complete a volume for that year. Ail the remaining
numbers are procurable.

Show Pelargoniums. — A Young Gardener. — August and September are two
good months in which to purchase show pelargoniums, and the under-mentioned
are the most desirable of the older kinds '.—Large-flowering Varieties. — Alba
Formosa Alabama, Archbishop, Attraction, Emperor, Bonnie Charlie, Beacon,
Charles Turner, Claribel, Corsair, Harold, Hebe, Hermit, Heroine, King Arthur,
Lady of the Lake, Luna, Lord Clyde, Lord Napier, Maid of Honour, Milton, Mary
Hoyle, Mr. Rassam, Nonpareil, Nabob, Olivia, Orange Spot, Peleus, Prince of
Denmark, Progress, Queen of Roses, Rustic, Shakespeare, Troubidour, Victoria,
William Hoyle Fancy Varieties. — Agrippa, Belle of the Season, Brightness,
Helen Beck, Miss-in -her-teens, Arabella Goddard, Leotard, Delicatum, East Lynne,
Excelsior, Fanny Gair, Silver Mantle, Miss Dorling, Cloth-of-Silver, Duchess of
Buccleuch, Formosa, Marmion, Madame Sainton-Dolby, Andromeda, Lady
Carrington, Mrs. Mendal, Mrs. A. Wigan, Lady Dorothy Neville, Princtss of Teck,
Undine.

Best Thirty Verbenas for Pot Culture. — S., Sussex. — Ace of Trumps,
Ada Ring, Anatole Leroy, Annie, Annie Keynes, Achievement, Beauty of Kent,
Conspicua, Duke of Edinburgh, Florence Fiddian, G. P. Tye, Geant des Batailles, Isa
Key, King of the Verbenas, Lotty Eckford, Lord Leigb, Lady Langlesbury, Mrs. S.
P. Hole, Mauve Queen, Miss Wimsett, Mrs. Eckford, Mrs. Pochin, Master Jacobs,
Mons. Wood, Nemesis, Out and- Outer, Polly Perkins, Princess of Wales, R. H.
Vertegans, Reine des Roses, Shakespeare, Shirley Hibberd, Spot, Thomas Lawdon,
Violet Perfection.

Propagation of Clematis. — Amateur. — The best way to propagate Clematis
ccerulea is to select at once a vigorous shoot and lay it down. Let it spring up
again, and then nick with a sharp knife the back of every joint, and peg each joint
into a pot filled with a good potting compost, and plunge each pot to the rim.
Every joint will thus make a plant, and every such plant will be better than those
from layers made in the ordinary manner.

Mtosotis dh-sitiflora. — TV. H. — The best way to bloom this gem in February
would be to take cuttings now, and grow them into good sized plants in a cool frame.
Use very rich soil after they have made good roots, and give plenty of water till
the middle of September; then give them no mote than will just keep them green
and fresh. In December bring a fnw into a house kept at about SO3, and in January
bring in a few more, and they will bloom on all points of their new growth.

A. Belt for a Fountain. — _K. — Nothing better for the vicinity of a fountain
than Pampas grass, Elvmus glauca, Tritoma uvaria, Hydrangeas, Fuchsias,
Lysimachia thyrsiflora, CEnothera Fraseri, Calla Ethiopica, Osmunda regalis,
Athyrium Filix-fcemina, Arundo donax, and other such plants of graceful habit
and fond of moisture. You cannot have anything grand to flower in winter, but
you may plant the banks with winter aconite, Christmas rose, and primroses.

Propagating Pelargonium. — Lady Plymouth. — The best place in the world,
because the surest, to strike the whole of the variegated pelargoniums, including
the gold and silver zonals, at this season, is a nice warm border facing the south.
We have struck thousands this way, and it is seldom one goes off. If you put
in this way the few cuttings of Lady Plymouth which you mention, you will
experience no difficulty in rooting them, and you can calculate upon having nineteen
plants for every twenty cuttings. Prick up the soil, and then make the surface firm ;
and after putting in the cuttings, water moderately, and then leave them alone until
they have roots half an inch long, when they may be taken up and potted.

THE COLD EN-LEAVED ALDER,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 289

GARDEN" TEEES.

{Illustrated with Coloured Plate of the Golden-leaved Alder.)

[HE season lias returned in which to purchase and plant
deciduous trees, and those who begin early will have
the best prospect of making a satisfactory end. In the
mild autumnal days, when showers are frequent and
the ground is warm, trees carefully transplanted make
new roots in their new positions with great rapidity, and in the
succeeding spring present their leaves and flowers so freely and
vigorously as to afford no hint in their appearance of having lately
changed their place. But with every delay there is an augmentation
of the injury which every tree must inevitably suffer by removal.
In the first case the injury is trifling, and recovery therefrom rapid.
The longer we defer to plant, the more serious is the injury, and
the recovery is slow in a corresponding degree, so that it comes to
this at last, that trees planted in the spring are as likely to die as
to live, and to move a tree when it is coming into leaf, is to put its
life in jeopardy.

On the subject of planting, the foregoing remarks are all that
we can afford space for at present. The prevailing poverty of
gardens troubles us, and having to accompany the plate of the
golden alder with a few remarks, we embrace the occasiou to say
that ornamental trees are not made enough of in our gardens, the
tendency of planters being towards forest trees rather than to such as
we may properly call " pictorial," or perhaps more properly garden
trees. The immense variety of majestic, graceful, and even of gro-
tesque forms at our command, the diversities of colours of leaves
and flowers, the changing aspects of those that present us now with
tender green leafage, now with wondrous sheets of bloom, and anon
acquire the fiery hues that accompauy the falling of the leaf, afford
a succession of delights to those who have planted wisely and made a
proper distinction in the selection of their trees between the garden
and the park, between the dressed ground and the rustic woodland,
or far-stretching forest. Of all places in the world where beautiful
trees appeared to be best appreciated, the suburbs of London must
have honourable mention. Indeed the rural surroundings of the
great metropolis are rich in whatever money can buy and taste
dispose of, and the occasional demonstrations of mere cockneyism
are swamped out, as it were, from the general aspects of the out-
door world by the bountiful displays of high-class arborescent vege-
tation. But there is room for improvement here as elsewhere, and we
look forward to the development of a taste for true garden trees,
and propose to promote it by these observations, and the lists of
selected subjects that will supplement them.

Beautiful trees are not despised in this country, though the

dwellers in towns give less attention to them than they should for

their own bodily and spiritual health ; and those who profess to

love trees, manifest their love in a way too cheap and hasty to Becure

vol. ti. — no. x. 19

290 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

them the " praise that comes to constancy." The joy with which
anyone in treaty for the purchase of an estate speaks of the " timber"
upon it, and the earnestness with which a " want of timber " is
deplored, demonstrate a larger love of trees than we should any-
where expect to find if we were to judge the case by the practices
that prevail in planting. Lovers of trees, and we may say the
designers and improvers of rural scenery, tend always to tread in
ancient tracks. We have no epithets of depreciation to spare for
oaks and elms and beeches, and we do not incline to say a word
against the soil-exhausting ash, or the heaven-hiding and lumpy-
headed chestnut. "We revere these trees ;. we glory in groves of
them ; we are never weary of their aspect at any season of the year,
and even when they are leafless we can find beauty and majesty in
their outline. Our complaint against the landscape gardeners and
the amateurs in trees is that, in the formation of the gardenesque,
they make small effort to obtain variety of effects, and trust too
much to the trees of the forest and the park for the decoration of
the garden. It is even so, but it should be far otherwise. What
should we say of the gardener who filled the borders on the terrace,
and the beds in the parterre with " pimpernels and wilding thyme,"
but that he had mistaken his vocation, and sought on the breezy
hills of Britain for flowers when he ought to have been on a voyage
to the Cape ? There are garden flowers as there are woodland
flowers, there are garden trees as there are forest trees, and the
artist who can determine the proper scope of his work will always
recognize the distinction between them ; he will not go to the ex-
treme of saying that oaks and elms, and limes and beeches, should
never be seen in gardens ; for we should hesitate and consider many
times ere we should arrive at a determination to cut down a fine
example of a forest tree in any garden ; but we repeat that these
are not the subjects to be first thought of when the resolve has
been taken to form a garden, and the question arises as to the
selection of trees for it. Yet, for garden purposes, pictorial trees
abound : trees of large growth, of middling growth, and of miniature
growth ; trees that flower in spring, that fruit in summer, that
become glorious with colour when autumn passes her burning hand
amongst the leaves. We have weeping trees and laughing trees ;
we have solemn-leaved trees that enrich the well-planned scene with
their deep tones of colour, and we have variegated-leaved trees that
light it up with their grey and golden and silvery hues ; we have
trees with leafage like lace or gauze, and we have trees with foliage
so ponderous that one might imagine they had been cast in bronze,
with the object solely of creating beneath them the best possible
imitation of midnight, in contrast to the radiance of mid-day at
midsummer all around. We can imagine many of our readers
asking, " Where are these wondrous trees ? Let us see them ;
help us to select, and purchase, and plant, that we may realize the
outdoor pleasures you bespeak in connection with these things."
Where are they ? In the nurseries ! But how to see them, " there's
the rub." We may read of a golden-leaved tulip-tree, or a purple-
leaved maple-tree, or of a poplar that drops its thick-leaved boughs

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 291

in exquisite order round it, to form a perfect canopy of verdurous
coolness "'gainst the hot season;" hut to see such things, even
with a view to purchase them, is difficult. Yes, it is so. At the
nurseries we may find them all, even to the latest novelties, but it
may be that nine-tenths of all the trees we wish to see are to be
found only in the shape of puny examples fresh from the hands of
the propagator. The nurseryman cannot help it : he must make the
most of plants that have cost him large sums of money, and it is his
business to cut a costly tree into as many pieces as the leaves upon
it, and make of every leaf, with the incipient bud at its base, an
article of merchandise, which in years to come shall, under some
cultivator's care, display characteristics of beauty, of which at present
it does not afford a single foreshadow.

Well, it cannot be helped. To indicate a defect in the economy
of an art, especially if the indication be made, as this is, in the
midst of its practitioners, is a great step towards its rectification.
We need a national arboretum, but we cannot hope for anything of
the sort whilst South Kensington is considered the centre of artistic
energies, while it is in reality only the centre of systematic jobbery.
To keep away from politics we close up here, and add the promised
lists, which comprise none but good things.

Trees Flowering in Spring (including the best for- garden
borders, shrubberies, and front lines). — Snowy Mespilus, Ame-
lanchier botryapium, white, 15 feet, very elegant ; Weeping Almond,
A. communis pendula, pink, 15 feet, pendulous ; Double-flowering
Peach, A. persica flore-pleno, peach, 8 feet ; Double-flowering Cherry,
Cerasus domestica flore-pleno, 15 feet, white ; Dwarf Almond, C.
japonica multiplex, 5 feet, pink, pretty ; Weeping Cherry, C. pendula,
10 feet, white, very elegant ; Judas Tree, Cercis siliquastrum, 10
feet, red, distinct and fine ; Double Scarlet Thorn, Crataegus oxycan-
tha coccinea plena, 12 feet, red ; Double AVhite Thorn, G. o. multiplex,
12 feet, white, very beautiful ; Single Scarlet Thorn, G. o. punicea,
15 feet, scarlet, very showy ; Weeping Laburnum, Gytisis laburnum
pendula, 8 feet, yellow ; Double- flowering plum, Primus domestica
flore-pleno, 8 feet, white ; Double Pink-flowering Plum, P. triloba,
8 feet, rosy pink, pretty ; Chinese Crab, Pyrus malus spectabilis,
4 feet, rosy pink, lovely ; Kino; Charles's Lilac, Syringa vulgaris
Charles X., 12 feet, deep red ; AVhite-flowered Lilac, 8. v. alba, 12
feet, white ; Cut-leaved Persian Lilac, S. persica laciniata, 8 feet,
reddish lilac.

Beautiful Lawn Trees (of a distinct and graceful habit, for
planting singly in conspicuous positions). — Weeping Birch, Betula
alba pendula, 12 feet, weeping tree, D. ; Lvergreen Chesnut, Gastanea
chrysophylla, 20 feet, spreading tree, E. ; Judas Tree, Cercis siliquas-
trum, 20 feet, spreading tree, D. ; Plum-leaved Thorn, Crataegus
crus-galli prunifolia, 15 feet, erect tree, d. ; Cut-leaved Thorn, G.
oxycantha laciniata, 12 feet, spreading tree, handsome, D. ; Fern-
leaved Beech, Fagus sylvatica asplenifolia, 20 feet, spreading tree, D. ;
AVeeping Beech, F. s. pendula, 15 feet, tree, pendent branches, d. ;
Weeping Ash, Fraxinus excelsior pendula, 15 feet, tree, pendent
branches, n. ; Spiny-leaved Grleditschia, Gleditschia horrida, 15 feet;

292 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

spreading tree,D.; Panicle-flowered Kolreuteria, K.p>aniculata,\b' feet,
spreading tree, d. ; Tulip Tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, 20 feet,
spreading tree, D. ; Imperial Paulownia, P. vnvperialis, 25 feet,
spreading tree, lilac flowers, d. ; Weeping Poplar, Populus tremula
prui/ ula, 20 feet, tree, branches pendent, d. ; Oval-leaved Photinia,
Bapliiolepis ovata, 10 feet, spreading shrub, e. ; Venetian Sumach,
Rhus coUn/us, 8 feet, spreading tree, elegant, D. ; Mop-head Acacia,
Robmia inermis, 8 feet, small standard tree, d. ; Maidenhair Tree,
Salisbur/a adiantifolia, 20 feet, erect tree, d. ; Weeping Willow,
Salix purpurea pendula, 20 feet, tree, d. ; Weeping Lime, Tilia alba
pendula, 15 feet, tree, drooping, d. ; AVeeping Wych-Elm, TJlmus
montanus pendulus, 15 feet, tree, graceful, d.

Coniferous Trees for Lawns (including thoroughly hardy,
most elegant-habited sorts, in any soil or climate). — Chilian Pine,
Araucaria imbricata, 25 feet, distinct and telling; Deodar Cedar,
Oedrus deodara, 40 feet, graceful, quick grower ; Erect Green-leaved
Cvpress, Cupressus Laicsoniana erecta viridis, 20 feet, very fine ;
Graceful Cypress, C. L. gracilis, 20 feet, very elegant in growth ;
Pyramidal Juniper, Juwiperus pyramidalis stricta, 10 feet, compact-
growing ; Rigid Juniper, J. rigida, 15 feet, ends of shoots pendulous ;
Variegated Red Cedar, /. mrginiana variegata, 6 feet, very beautiful ;
Nordmann's Silver Fir, Picea Ncfrdmanniana, 20 feet, fine habit ;
Spanish Silver Eir, P.pinsapo, 20 feet, distinct, beautiful ; Large-coned
Pine, P. macroearpa, 50 feet, very bold ; Pyrenean Pine, P. pyrenaica,
40 feet, bold in outline ; Blunt-leaved Eetinispora, B. obtusa, 6 feet,
very elegant ; Golden-leaved Retinospora, B. pisifera aurea, 6 feet,
golden tipped ; Feathery-leaved Retinospora, B. plumosa, 6 feet,
graceful habit; Umbrella Pine, Sciadopiiys verficittata, 30 feet, very
distinct ; Golden Tew, Taxus baccata aurea, 5 feet, golden leafage ;
Elegant Yew, T. b. elegantissima, 6 feet, golden variegation — this is
the best variety ; Glaucous-leaved Thujopsis, T. borealis glauca, 10
feet, compact, variegated ; Weeping Thujopsis, T. Standishi, 10 feet,
pendulous branches; Gigantic Arbor-vita?, Thuja gigautea, 20 feet,
superb ; Golden Arbor-vita?, T. oriental is aurea, 3 teet, compact and
handsome, tickle in growth.

Variegated-leaved Trees (including many which have rich and
varied colours in spring and early summer). — Variegated Cut-leaved
Maple, Acer pectiiiatu m variegatum,15 feet, elegant, d.; Variegated Sy-
camore, A. alio variegata, 30 feet, showy, d.; Variegated Negundo, A.
negundo variegata, 20 feet, margined white, d., a splendid tree; Golden
leaved Spanish Chesnut, Castanea vesca variegata, 30 feet, golden
margin, D. ; Golden-leaved Catalpa, Catalpa syringcefolia aurea, 30
feet, very showy, d. ; Purple-leaved Xut, Corylus avellana purpurea,
12 feet, distinct, d. ; Variegated Thorn, Crataegus oxycantha variegata,
15 feet, silver stripes, d. ; Purple Beech, Fagus sylvatica purpurea,
30 feet, leaves black, purple, D. ; Golden Beech, F. s. var., 20 feet,
yellow edge, n. ; Aucuba-leaved Asb, Fraxinus aucubafolia, 30 feet,
spotted, d. ; Golden-blotched Ela?agnus, E. reflexa maculata, 20 feet,
showy, e. ; White Beam Tree, Pgrus aria, 40 feet, under surface of
leaves white, d. ; Variegated Weeping Mountain Ash, Pgrus aucu-
paria pendula var., 20 feet, D. ; Variegated Turkey Oak, Quercus

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 293

cerris variegata, 30 feet, yellow margin, d. ; Golden Oak, Q. concordia,
30 feet, golden leaves, d.; Black Oak, Q. nigra, 30 feet, blackishleaves,
distinct, d. ; Silver-leaved Alaternus, Hhamnus foliis argenteis, 10
feet, silver variegated, e. ; Variegated Narrow-leaved Alaternus, B.
angustifolla var., 10 feet, e. ; Silver-leaved Lime, Tilia argentea, 40
feet, under side of leaves, white, d. ; Silver Elm, Ulmus campeslris
variegata, 30 feet, white variegation, d. ; Golden Elm, U. c. aurea,
30 feet, bright golden leaf, d. ; Variegated Weeping "Wych-Elm, U.
montana pendulavar., 15 feet, d. ; Golden-leaved Tulip Tree Lirioden-
dron tulipiferum, var. aureo-pictis, richly variegated ; Purple Weeping
Elm, Ulmus campestris pendula purpurea, 20 feet ; Golden-leaved
Alder, Alnus glandulosa aurea, rich golden leafage (see coloured
plate).

Trees richly coloured in Autumn (just before shedding their
leaves, a number of which are fine for park or garden). — Norway
Maple, Acer platanioides, 30 feet, leaves die olf yellow ; Scarlet
Maple, A. ruhrum, 30 feet, leaves die off red ; Virginian'Bird Cherry,
Cerasus virginiana, 20 feet, leaves die off yellow ; Cockspur Thorn, G.
crus-galli, 15 feet, decaying leaves bronzy red ; Yellow-berried Thorn,
G.flava, 15 feet, decaying leaves yellow ; Pear-leaved Thorn, C. pgri-
folia, 15 feet, leaves die off yellow ; Dark-leaved Spindle Tree,
JEuonymus atropurpureus, 8 feet, dies off red and purple ; Broad-
leaved Spindle Tree, E. latifolius, 15 feet, decaying leaves purple ;
Three-spined Gleditschia, G. tricauthos, 40 feet, decaying leaves
yellow ; Black Walnut, Juglans nigra, 30 feet, yellow, showy ;
Panicle- flowered Kolreuteria, K. paniculata, 20 feet, yellow ; Liqui-
dambar, L. styraeijlua, 30 feet, yellow and crimson ; Tulip Tree,
Liriodendrom lulipifera, 40 feet, yellow ; White Mulberry, Moms
alba, 20 feet, yellow, valuable for its fruit ; Bed-flowered Pavia, P.
ruhrum, 6 feet, brown-red; Leafy Pear, Pgrus vestita, yellow; neat
and pretty ; Arbutus-leaved Pear, P. arbutifolia, 6 feet, crimson ;
Scarlet Oak, Quercus coccinea, 40 feet, red, valuable for its timber ;
Mirbeek's Oak, Q. Mirbechi, 20 feet, yellow, fine for parks ; Venetian
Sumach, Rhus cotinus, 8 feet, yellow, useful for small lawns ; Stag's-
Horn Sumach, E. tgphina, 20 feet, red ; Veined-leaved Sumach, H.
venenatum, 10 feet, scarlet ; Lime Tree, Tilia europaia, 40 feet, yellow,
useful for avenues. S. H.

CULTIVATION OF THE GLADIOLUS.

HIS magnificent autumnal flower adroitly evades inclusion
in any of the classifications usually adopted in books and
catalogues. We cannot class it with hardy perennials,
because, as a rule, it cannot be left in the open ground
during winter, as we might leave a lily, a tritoma-, or
a phlox. If we class it with bulbous flowers, the cynical critic will
rebuke us on the ground that the so-called bulb of the gladiolus is
nothing of the sort, and may not be treated in precisely the same
way as a bulb, whether in ordinary cultivation, or for the purpose

294 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of increasing the stock. We, therefore, make it the subject of a
separate paper, a proceeding happily justified by its high character
as a decorative plant and its rapidly increasing popularity.

The advance of this noble flower in popularity is a matter for the
greatest satisfaction. It is strange that its capabilities should have
been known to cultivators years and years before they took it in
hand in earnest ; but they have clone this at last, and our autumn
displays are made peculiarly splendid with its rich varieties of
colour ; and its graceful outlines afford an agreeable relief to the
predominance of ungraceful subjects which then usually prevail.
One great and glorious advantage of its habit and constitutional
character is that it will ripen seed in our gardens, and to this may
be added that it is not a difficult subject to hybridize, so that the
raising of seedlings — the greatest charm of all the charms of floricul-
ture— is within the range of the Englishman's garden pleasures.

In the cultivation of the gladiolus, the matter of first inq^ortance
is the kind of soil required. In constitution and requirements the
gladiolus stands exactly midway between the ixia and the crocus.
Like those useful members of the Iridaceous order, it has a root
which, in botanical language, is called a " corm," and which never
flowers more than once. While growing aboveground, the corm is
forming duplicates of itself in the ground below. It is to the
interest of the grower not only to promote the development of
the leaves and flowers, but also of the offsets, for these are his stock
in trade, and if he does not save them in good condition, he must
buy again : but if his system of cultivation is perfect, he needs
but a first start in the roots that are desirable, and he may increase
his stock from year to year ad libitum.

In our experimental garden gladioli have been grown in every
kind of soil — in peat, in common garden loam, in land heavily
manured, in hungry sand, and in carefully prepared mixtures. It
is evident by their behaviour that they are not so particular as to soil
as is generally supposed. Downright drought and starvation are
ruin to them ; excess of manure is equally destructive ; but in any
free and moderately generous soil they grow well, flower freely,
and perpetuate themselves in useful progeny. The result of much
observation and frequently repeated experiments is that peat is
favourable to a good bloom, but not to a fair development of offsets ;
that heavy damp soil is unfit for them, but is easily improved by the
addition of leaf-mould and thoroughly rotten manure ; that sandy
road-drift is first-rate to ameliorate any kind of stubborn stuff; but
that the best soil of all is just such as Lilium lancifolium thrives
in, consisting of bits of turf, fibrous loam, fibrous peat, leaf-mould,
rotten manure, and sharp sand, in about equal proportions. This
is free, porous, water will not readily lodge in it, yet it does not
become dry quickly, as is the case with sandy peat, and it is full of
nourishment. A few years ago it was the prevailing opinion that
animal manure, such as rotten dung, was quite unfit for them. This
was a mistake, though not quite founded on fallacy. The fact is, an
excess of manure, or rank manure, or any such powerful stimulus as
a rose or a cauliflower would accept with relish, is pretty sure to

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 295

cause disease in gladioli. But a fifth part of thoroughly decayed
manure in a sweet friable state is of great service, both to bring
out the colours rich and true, and promote the formation of a strong
brood of offsets. In its native country the gladiolus is subject
to a deluging summer, with much heat and a not severe winter,
which is comparatively dry. In a mild autumn the leaves are reluc-
tant to die down, which shows that after flowering it is the nature
of the plant to grow freely ; it is like the crocus in that respect, and
needs its leaves in the same manner to assist in the formation of the
progeny. The early flowering of the crocus enables it to finish off
its growth with fair weather if the gardeners do not cruelly cut or
plait its graceful leaves, and so it just suits our climate. Not so
with the gladiolus ; our autumal frosts often overtake it before it
has finished its season, and this fact affords a point of some import-
ance for the consideration of the cultivator. It is evident that a
boggy soil must be very injurious if the bulbs are left in the ground
to a late period of the year. We may be sure that plenty of water
in summer, and dryness with shelter in the winter, are circumstances
favourable to flowering and increase. Thus we learn on what prin-
ciple to form the bed for these flowers. A well-drained position, a
deep sandy, free nourishing soil, containing not a particle of anything
rank or sti'ong, some amount of shelter if possible, but full exposure
to the sun, or only partially shaded, and water at hand in case of
a dry season, when there should be plenty given from the end of
May to the end of July, after which the heavens will probably supply
all they want.

It follows, from the foregoing considerations, that if we could
leave the bulbs in the ground all the winter, it would be far better
than taking them up. Unfortunately, as a rule, there is some risk
in doing so, for a hard frost after heavy rains might sweep them
all off; yet, if they really passed through the winter unhurt, the
next season's growth would be more satisfactory than if they were
taken up with their leaves green and sappy, and dried off like onions.
The fact is, the young corms are never perfected till the leaves die
naturally ; and here is one of the gi*eat advantages of pot culture,
which enables us to place them under cover till they finish off natu-
rally, without any disturbance of the roots. The Ganclavensis section
is the most hardy, and the safest to leave out, and if the beds are
well drained and somewhat sheltered, a covering of decayed tan or
quite rotten manure, or even sawdust, two or three inches deep,
will keep them. But the Ramosus section is too tender to treat
in this way, and under some circumstances the Ganclavensis race are
safer all winter dry and under cover than in the ground. There is
a bed of Brenchleyensis in our garden which has not been disturbed
for five years. There have been no perceptible losses, and the bed has
thickened so much that during summer the mass is like a huge tuft
of some strong-growing grass, with myriads of showy flowers scat-
tered through it. But while this thickening has been going on
there has been degeneration : the growth is weak, and the flowers
are small — evidence enough that they have exhausted the soil they
are in, and must be moved now or go to ruin. This, perhaps, is an

296 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

argument for lifting, apart altogether from the risks attendant upon
the coldness and humidity of our winters. When we have wrought
up a florist's flower to a high condition, we find that it must be well
fed to keep it true, and to maintain in its full extent the field for
further improvement. Hence the majority of our most prized
florist's flowers require to be perpetually propagated, replanted,
renewed from buds and germs and seeds. The question arises,
then, if it will not always do to leave them in the ground, what
shall we do with them ? First, then, let there be no haste to dry
them off, and do not completely dry the young corms at all. Lift
them, and pack them close in boxes or beds of earth iri sunny pits
or greenhouses, and keep the soil in which they are packed so
slightly moist that it will not soil the fingers if crumbled between
them. If the soil is really wet, there will be an outbreak of mildew ;
but a moisture sufficient to prevent untimely ripening is perfectly
safe and beneficial. When the leaves turn yellow, and it is obvious
their season of activity is over, lift them, shake off the soil, and lay
them in a dry, sunny place : the best possible place for them is a
dry, warm shelf in a greenhouse. They will soon be ripe, and you
will have corms of several sizes — large ones for next season's
flowering, and small ones that will not flower, but must be grown
on to flowering size. The advice to take them up in October, and
dry them off quickly, has had much to do with the disease that has
prevailed, there can be no doubt, for it often happens that the offsets
are then not sufficiently grown to have an independent existence,
and forcing them into this by hasty di'ying and separating is a
process of weakening which will show its results hereafter. We
have treated these and cannas by one and the same process with
the best success, by packing them pretty close in boxes with gritty
soil in a nearly dry state, and placing them in pits to finish their
career for the season.

The best way to keep them through the winter is in sand. Long
exposure to the atmosphere is injurious. If kept in a warm place,
many of them will begin to grow prematurely, and in that case
must be immediately potted, and kept dry and cool, but safe from
frost, till April, and then should be placed in the open air, in a
shady place ; and when the pots are full of roots, they may be
planted out without so much as removing the crocks. The potting
process is unquestionably the best, because of the long season of
growth it allows of; but any kind of forcing is injurious. Those
who desire to have a prolonged bloom should begin to pot in
January, and continue with succession batches till the end of March,
after which the corms may be planted in the open ground with
safety. If potting is not convenient, keep the bulbs cool and
covered till the first week in April, and then plant them. That late
planting is not of necessity ruinous has been proved on several occa-
sions, for we have seen in the month of September a large batch
blooming in a very satisfactory manner that were not planted till
somewhere about the previous Midsummer Day. The usual advice
is to plant them three inches deep. This is not deep enough ; large
corms should be six inches deep, and the smallest four inches. A

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 297

very effective way is to plant them in clumps of threes a foot apart
every way. But, to bring them out to the best advantage, a mixture
of other subjects is advisable, and for this purpose there is nothing
so o-ood as the canna, because of the grandeur of its leafage, m which
resnect the gladiolus is deficient. As this noble flower thrives in
peat, an effective mode of displaying it is to plant in April a collection
of the most showy varieties in the front of an American bed, where
they will have the advantage of a rich background of rhododendron
leafage.

BEST ONE HUNDRED GLADIOLI.

Achille,Adolp7ie Brovgniart, Anais, Apoilon, Argus, Belle Gabrielle,
Bernard de Jussieu, Calypso, Garminata, Charles Dickens, Clemence,
Cuvier, Comte de Morny, Diana, Chateaubriand, Cheruhin, Due de
MalaJcoff, Dr. Lindley, Edulia, El Dorado, Endymion, Etendard,
Eugene Scribe, Eurydice, Felicien David, Fenelon, Flore, Florian, Ful-
ton, Galilee, Homer, Irruperatriee Eugenie, James Watts, James Veitch,
John Waterer, Lady Franklin,La Fiancee, Lord Byron,Lord Granvdle,
Lord Raglan, Madame Desportes, Madame Dombrain, Madame de Se-
vigne, Madame Domage, Madame Furtado, Madame Vilmorin, Madame
Adele Souchet, Madame Basseville, Madame Binder, Madame de
Vatry, Madame Haquin, Madame Rabourdin, Madame Rougier
Chauviere, MacMahon, Maria, Mary Stuart, Marechal Vaillant,
Mathilde de Landevoisin, Meyerbeer, Michel Ange, Milton, Mohere,
Monsieur Camille BemarcHn, Monsieur Lebrun d'Albanne, Mozart,
Napoleon III., Nemesis, Newton, Ninon de VFnclos, Ophir, Oracle,
Oscar, Penelope, Princess Clothilde, Princess Mary of Cambridge,
Princess Mathilde,Prince of Wales, Princess of Wales, Princess Ahce,_
Racine, Rebecca, Rembrandt, Peine Victoria, Rev. M. J. Berkley, Rot
Leopold, Rubens, Semiramis, Sir J. Paxton, Sir W. Booker, Shake-
speare, Schiller, Stephenson, Stewart Low, Thalie, Thomas Methven,
Thomas Moore, Ulyssc, Tirana, Vesta, Vicomtesse de Belleval, Virgil,
Walter Scott.

TWENTY-FOUR SPLENDID CHEAP GLADIOLI FOR GROUPING.

Aristotle, Brenchleyensis, Boiviensis, Chateaubriand, Cardinalis,
Couranti fulgens, Daphne, Den Juan, Dr. Andry, Fanny Rouget,
Formosissimus, Floribundus, Gil Bias, Gandavensis, Imperatrice,
Janire, John Bull, Madame Coudere, Mars, Mons. Blouet, Mons.
Vincheon, Mons. Georgeon, Queen Victoria, Triomphe d'Enghein.

o. xi .

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.
A FEW WORDS ABOUT ROSES.

BY W. D. PBIOB, ESQ.

>HE current season has been singularly prolific in lessons
about roses. In the first place, the cessation of the
customary annual issue from France, consequent upon the
great war, has afforded an opportunity for more thorough
trial than usual of the newer varieties already here. In
the second place, the exhibitions having extended over a much wider
time, particularly owing to the admirable and deservedly successful
supplementary Rose Show at the Crystal Palace, more varieties have
been brought under review than possibly ever appeared before.
Practically, Rose Shows have extended from the 24th of June well
on to September, because specimens of cut blooms have formed
items at all flower shows up to the latest date. The professed
rosarian, however, will not have confined his observations to such a
limited area. Public and private collections of celebrity will have
been visited, and their specialities noted, and principles duly deve-
loped from the whole combined sources at command. Some of the
results attained by such an exhaustive criticism may appear, perhaps,
somewhat startling — open to objection, it may be — but they cannot
be advantageously ignored. Thus, a complete revision of the cata-
logues appears to be imminent, because it is no longer possible to
give the best twenty-five or the best fifty varieties, as was formerly
the case. Setting aside a distinct few, there are now so many illus-
trations of specific styles, that the choice of their individual repre-
sentatives is matter of the nicest consideration — often resolving
itself into a simple matter of opinion. When it is said a revision of
the catalogues must take place, it is not meant that trade growers
must materially diminish the number of varieties included in the
stock they cultivate ; but that the selections of the choicest hitherto
received must be remodelled in accordance with the qualifying
lights afforded by the latest experiences. Henceforth, then, it will
be desirable to give, not the best fifty, but fifty of the best, roses,
etc., by such authorities as wish to escape challenge of their ver-
dicts. Such, however, is the course we shall follow, subject to any
special modifications circumstances may render necessary. Another
result of owr examinations is a grave doubt whether future attempts
to obtain perfection in the rose ought not to be carried out through
entirely different strains to those lately employed. We have
obtained great size ; we have increased the dimensions of petals —
particularly the depth — and likewise their substance ; but we have
undeniably decreased their number, and, in too many cases, have
lost true doubleness, for there is scarcely a modern rose of any note
which, when fully open, does not expose a defective centre, or
display an eye. If we take good specimens of Baronne Prevost,
Gloire de Dijon, Malmaiaon, and numerous older roses, we shall find
the small centre petals buckling over, as it were, and never, under
any circumstances, permitting the "seed-process" to be seen;

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 299

whereas a few hours' trial of a full-blown flower — even of Alfred
Colombo, and modern roses of equal repute — inevitably reveals the
eye. This is so patent a defect, that no effort ought to be spared to
get rid of it. "We had better abandon new roses altogether, what-
ever other merits they possess, than allow this vicious feature to
become iueradicably fixed, going back to some of the best of older
kinds as seed-bearers for our future uovelties. Coarseness, and its
concomitant raggedness, is also another frequent defect found in
new roses — that is, on the stands. It is by no means certain, in all
cases, whether-this fault actually belongs to the rose itself, or is not
rather developed by the grower, in his attempts to secure abnormal
size. Many of these huge roses at the exhibitions are by no means
similar monstrosities upon the bushes in the rosery. Indeed, the
case is, in some respects, analogous to prize beasts and fatted pigs
at a Cattle Show.

Another curious idea which is apt to arise in the mind of an old
rosarian is, whether we are not getting certain bygone varieties,
forgotten by most, over again under new names — a little improved,
it may be, by superior cultivation. It is certain that, with adroit
management, it would not be a very difficult piece of deception to
palm oft* roses of kinds now forgotten. How many of our modern
judges could detect a bloom of L' Enfant du Mont Carmel, or
.Noemie, or Toujours Pleurie, if placed upon the show-table amongst
others r1 This reflection suggests an interesting experiment for any
rosarian suitably placed for carrying it out. Early in November,
let a breadth of proper soil, where the climate is favourable for
superior development of roses, be prepared, and half-a-dozen strong
plants of the Manetti be procured and carefully planted, of each of
the following old kinds, for instance : — Heine des Floeurs, Baronne
Hallez, Baron Heckeren, Cornet, General Brea, General Pelissier,
Gloire de Parthenay, Jacques Lafitte, L'Enfant du Mont Carmel,
Leon des Combats, Madame Masson, Marquis d'Ailsa, Prince Im-
perial, Toujours Fleurie, and Triomphe de Paris. All of these, well
grown, possess the element of size, as well as symmetry. Let the
ground be well mulched, and let them receive the best possible
culture, liquid manure and disbudding ; and let the blooms thereof
be exhibited at the Shows the next season under the denomination
of " seedlings " — of course, no pecuniary imposition being attempted.
We imagine two certain results would follow. Pew would detect
their real character, and their undoubted beauty and superior points
would excite universal admiration. Some such comparison is re-
quired from time to time, before any varieties should be suffered to
lapse into oblivion, and before mere novelties should be allowed to
finally supersede first-rate kinds already in cultivation ; and for this
reason : there is considerable accident in the repute of roses, owing
to the compulsion competitors are under to cut what they have, and
not what they would choose, on fixed dates. Did circumstances
permit, we would carry out this experiment ourselves. Meantime,
we look with considerable interest for some enterprising amateur to
work out the idea as a valuable phase iu lessons upon the rose.

There is also wide scope for ascertaining accurately the relative

300 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

possession, amongst newer roses, of that important property, con-
tinuity of bloom. There are certain that we have remarked by no
means to be relied on in this respect, particularly when seasons are
unfavourable. Others, again, are apt to deteriorate in the quality
of their autumn bloom. Many complaints have reached us that
the remarkable rose, Baroness Rothschild, exhibits this defect, in
common with that celebrated old variety, Madame Domage, the
autumnal flowers of which seldom present the almost redundant
doubleness of those produced in the summer season.

We completed our observations for the summer season at the
extensive rose-grounds of Mr. John Eraser (Lea Bridge Road
Nurseries), in company with that eminent rosariau himself. These
will result, in due season, in not a little change in the selected lists,
which have hitherto held a certain position in our opinion, and even
mate, as our Transatlantic cousins say, indistinct divisions into new
and old, in giving future selections of the best varieties, which will
be forthcoming at the appointed time.

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR POT CULTURE.

[ROPA GATING zonal pelargoniums for the decoration
of the conservatory and the embellishment of the
flower-garden, will be proceeded with in earnest during
the next three or four weeks, and possibly a selection
of the varieties most suitable for the conservatory will
be useful to many. One of the most prevalent mistakes in the
cultivation of the zonal pelargoniums for conservatory decoration is
the growing of the most popular bedders, which are, with but two
or three exceptions, utterly unfit for the purpose, and even when
well grown have a very ragged and unfinished appearance. It is
also a very frequent occurrence to meet with competitive groups at
public exhibitions, made up entirely with such varieties as Stella,
Christine, Trentham Scarlet, and others of a similar character, and
when they come before me to judge, I always feel inclined to with-
hold the prizes altogether, for, however well they are grown, the
collection does not have a satisfactory appearance, or create a
favourable impression on the visitor. None of the double-flowering
varieties are suitable for the flower-garden, but a reform in the
selection of the varieties is none the less necessary, for some cul-
tivators adhere to those varieties which were first introduced, and
are now quite surpassed. It is, of course, impossible for all gera-
nium growers to keep pace with the introduction of new varieties,
neither is it desirable ; to buy all that are distributed every year
would incur an unnecessary expense, and burden the houses with
plants, practically speaking, not really worth the room they occupy.
At all events, such is my experience, and, no doubt, it is not by any
means singular. My collection is not, perhaps, so large as many
others, for it only contains two hundred and sixty varieties. Room
cannot be spared for more, and when a new one is added to the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 301

collection, one of the worst has to be destroyed to make way for it.
So large a number is not, of course, necessary when they are merely
required for the conservatory, but a greater interest is attached to
the cultivation of twenty distinct varieties, one plant of each, than
would be attached to the same number of plants of say two or
three sorts. Therefore I should recommeud each cultivator to grow
a reasonable number, say from twenty to thirty.

The selections of varieties with ornamental leafage, given by Mr.
Oubridge, in the July number is so good that the selections now
given will be confined strictly to those grown for their flowers.
Taking those with scarlet flowers, it may be said with truth that,
although Richard Headly has been before the public some time, it is
still unsurpassed in its way, and can be heartily recommended.
Splendour, sent out by Caunell, of Woolwich, last year, is in the
way of Sambo (one of the darkest scarlets in commerce), but the
flowers are more perfect in form, and produced in much larger
trusses. Pride of Kent, by the same raiser, is of a lighter shade, but
in other respects it is equally good, and one of the finest of its
class. Jean Sisley is also good ; the flowers of fine form, and pro-
duced very freely ; for exhibition purposes it is of little value, as the
petals drop so soon when the plants are moved about. Coleshill is in
the way of Lord of the Isles, and very desirable, but its chief value
is for winter flowering. Shades of Evening, deep rosy scarlet, one
of a set sent out by Mr. Groom, of Ipswich, is grand in every
respect ; Mann's Am.abilis, deep crimson ; Bell and Thorpe's John
Thorpe, rosy red, and Shakespeare, bright red, are all good for pot-
culture, as also are Georye Peabody, deep crimson scarlet ; Duke of
Devonshire and Duke of Portland. Diana, velvety crimson, laq'o,
bright orange scarlet, and Sir Charles Napier, three varieties raised
by Dr. Denny, are most valuable acquisitions for the conservatory,
but they are rather expensive as yet.

The varieties with flowers of an intermediate shade of colour are
even more valuable than those mentioned above. In the class with
flowers of a magenta or bluish crimson shade, Dr. Denny's Ianthe
must have the first place. The flowers are large, of good form and
the bluish shade is very decided in the lower petals. The second
best in the same way is Madame Mezard, a variety received from
the Continent two or three years since, but as yet little known. It
is now cheap, and should find a place in every collection of zonal
pelargoniums in pots, for it is not only distinct in colour, but it has
a neat habit, and produces its flowers in the most profuse manner
throughout the season. Arthur Pearson and Duncan, two varieties,
with flowers of a magenta shade, are remarkably good, and form
fine companions to the above ; indeed, no collection should be
without them.

In the section of pink flowers of the hue represented by Chris-
tine, CannelPs Master Christine is most valuable. The flowers are of
moderately good form, and produced in large trusses in the most
profuse manner possible. Beauty of Lee is in much the same way
as the preceding, and very useful. Adelaide, rose pink, Mrs. Keeler
delicate tinted pink, and Surpasse Miss Martin, are all desirable, and
perfectly distinct from each other.

302 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The varieties with painted flowers, of which Gloire de Corbrny
and Madame Werle are types, are most valuable for pot-culture,
because of the great beauty of the flowers, and the charming con-
trast they present to those with scarlet, and other highly-coloured
flowers. Hibberd's Alice Spencer, tinted with salmon pink ; Maiden's
Blush, tinted witli pink ; Miss Gladstone, white, with pink centre ;
Purity (Eckford's), salmon pink centre ; and Heine Blanche, white,
tinted with blush, are all grand, and the best in the section.

There are a large number of varieties with salmon flowers, but
the best, in my opinion, are Acme, rich in colour, and of fine shape ;
Madame Jean Sisley, good colour, and well-proportioned truss.;
L'Aurore, the brightest colour in the section ; Pioneer, good, fine
rich colour and attractive; Seraph, dwarf and strong. There are
now in commerce several varieties in this section with striped flowers,
but, in my opinion, they are not worth growing ; they are distinct,
but they lack effectiveness, and are, therefore, undesirable.

Three white-flowering varieties are ample in a moderate col-
lection, and the following should be selected. Hibberd's White
Wonder; Eckford's Purity, and Windsor's Bride, all of which are
first-rate.

Some of the nosegay varieties are also suitable for pot-culture,
and, when well grown, are very showy indeed. The best are, Mr.
Gladstone, deep crimson scarlet ; Wellington, dark maroon scarlet,
one of Dr. Denny's seedlings ; La Pere Hyacinthe, orange scarlet ;
David Garrick, very rich deep crimson ; Charles Diclcens, cerise
purple. The two latter were raised and sent out by Messrs. Bell
and Thorpe, of Stratford-on-Avon ; they are both first-class, and the
latter was voted the best nosegay in cultivation at the Geranium
Show at South Kensington. Downie, Laird, and Laing's pink May
Queen, deep pink ; Lady Hawley, light orange scarlet ; and Lady
Kirldand, deep rosy purple ; and Canuell's Giant Christian, light
pink ; George's Harry George, deep scarlet ; Pearson's Chilwell
Beauty, purplish magenta ; and Paul's Claude Lorraine, purplish
crimson.

For a selection of twelve double-flowering varieties, take Victor
Lemoine, bright scarlet ; Charles Glym, clear deep scarlet ; Crown
Prince, rosy peach ; Miss Evelyn, deep pink ; Triomphe de Lorraine,
cherry red ; Mr. Gladstone, deep rose, shaded orange ; Andrew Hen-
derson, very rich scarlet ; Ville de Nancy, rosy scarlet ; King of
Doubles, salmon scarlet ; Scintillant, bright red ; Sceptre de Lorraine
deep crimson scarlet, and Victoire de Lyon, deep violet crimson.
The last-mentioned is included, for the sake of its colour only.
It is inferior in the quality of the flowers to those mentioned above,
but the flowers are not so bad as they have been represented to be.
August 25th. John Walsh.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 303

THE BEGINNEll IN GRAPE GROWING.— No. VI.

BY WILLIAM COLE,
Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

OUTDOOR VINES.

LTHOUGH the cultivation of the grape vine in the open
air is of too precarious a character, in this country, to
justify the expenditure of a considerable sum of money
in the preparation of the border or the purchase of the
vines, it must be said that outdoor vines will amply
repay the cultivator for any little attention bestowed upon
theni. To insure good crops of grapes in the open air the vines
must be cultivated — that is to say, they must be planted in suitable
soils and situations, and they must have careful management during
the growing season. More frequently than otherwise the cul-
tivator, rather than the climate, is at fault ; the vines are planted
without reference to the suitability of the situation, and left pretty
much to themselves, and the climate is blamed for the inferiority of
the crop.

A south aspect is best suited to outdoor vines, although with
careful management they will do well trained to walls facing south-
east or south-west, and that aspect should, if possible, be set apart
for them. They also do better trained to high walls than they do
to low ones ; and walls not exceeding eight feet in height may be
more profitably employed in the cultivation of the peach, pear, or
cherry, than they would in the growth of the grape vine. Eences
also are objectionable, because of the cold current of air which
continually passes through the crevices that exist, even in the best
constructed fences ; and which materially reduces the temperature of
the air in contact with the foliage and fruit. Dwelling-houses
having suitable aspects present unusually favourable conditions for
the production of outdoor grapes, because of the great height of the
walls and the large surface they present for the development of the
growth, They should therefore be turned to account for that pur-
pose, especially as it can be done without any sacrifice of appearance
for the grape vine is unsurpassed in picturesque beauty by any other
hardy deciduous climber.

The construction of the border is second only in importance to the
selection of the aspect, as so much of the meed of success depends
upon the roots being properly provided for. As shown in the
accompanying diagram, the manner of preparing the border does not
differ materially from the way in which the borders for indoor vines
were advised to be formed in a previous number. The border should
be about eight feet wide, and three feet deep ; if the situation is
cold and wet, it should be elevated above the surrounding level
and the soil kept in its place by a neat nine-inch wall. The
soil should be excavated to a depth of four feet, if the border is to

504

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

BORDER FOR OUTDOOR VINES.

be entirely below the level, and a layer of rough stones or brickbats,
twelve or fifteen inches in thickness put in the bottom. The space
can then be filled with three parts turfy loam, one part horse
droppings, and one part lime rubbish. There is, of course, no

objection to the use of bones, but they
are too expensive to be employed in
borders for outdoor vines. It is not,
of course, necessary to have the bor-
ders entirely below or above the sur-
face, but they may be partly above
and partly below, according to the
exigencies of the case. Even in dry,
warm situations no objection whatever
exists to their being elevated entirely
above the general level. The drain
at the lowest part of the border
should connect with the main drains,
to carry off the water which collects
in it.

Grape vines in pots can be planted at almost any time, but the
two most suitable periods are July and October, and the last-men-
tioned is the best month in which to plant vines taken up from the
open border. The manner of planting when the vines are intended
to cover the walls of a dwelling-house is clearly portrayed in Fig. 2,
and when the vines are planted in the manner there indicated, the
whole of the wall space can be covered without interfering with the
windows or the light in the slightest degree. A slight alteration
may be made in the planting if it is considered at all desirable, and
four vines, two on each side of the door, may be planted instead of
having two on one side, and one on the other, as in the present
arrangement.

The advantage of having two sets of vines — one set for the
top and the other set for the lower half of the wall — is very
considerable, for outdoor vines bear better when trained on the
long-rod system, and it is seldom that twenty feet of well-matured
rod is produced in our short summers. When the walls do not
exceed twelve feet in height, one set of vines will be quite sufficient,
and for ordinary walls they should be planted at a distance of four
feet apart, and each vine allowed to carry four rods, two fruit-
bearing canes and two young ones for bearing the following season.
In planting them out of pots, carefully loosen the roots round the
outside, and plant them deep enough to cover a few inches of the
stem, from which healthy roots will be emitted in a short time after
planting.

The long-rod system of training, by which a constant succession
of young wood is maintained, is the most desirable for vines in the
open air. The first season after planting they should be cut back
to within about fifteen inches of the base. In the spring the two
top buds should be selected for training horizontally, one to the
right and the other to the left; and when the one on the right has
attained a length of eighteen inches, and the one on the left six

THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

305

inches, they should be trained perpendicularly up the walls. These,
if strong and well matured, may be left their whole length at the
winter pruning, and, the following spring, two young rods should be
trained up, at a distance of twelve inches from the base of the others
— that on the right of the main stem, on the inside, and that on the
left, on the outside of the perpendicular rods. By this system the
latter will always be kept at a regular distance apart, and the lateral
growth will have ample space for development. For the forcing
the second rod on the left, it will be necessary to select a strong
shoot at the base of the first, and train it the proper distance hori-
zontally, and then take it up in the manner mentioned above ; if more
than two 'bearing rods are required on each vine, a new cane, in the

Fig. 2. — Training Outdoor Vines to Walls of Dwelling- Houses.

manner here mentioned, can be taken up each season, until the
requisite number is obtained. Fig. 2 is a fair example of the st\ le
of training here recommended, but there should be four rods on each
side of the windows.

After the space is fully occupied, the canes which have borne
fruit should, at the winter pruning, be pruned back to within a few
inches of their base, and the young canes indicated by the dotted
lines shortened back to their proper length, and allowed to bear a
crop of fruit the following season. In the spring, a number of shoots
will push from the base of the cane pruned back in the winter, and
the strongest must be selected for training up to take the place of
the one removed. This, in its turn, will have to take the place of the
present fruit-bearing cane, and, in its turn, have to make way for
vol. yi. — no. x. 20

306 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

others ; the young canes should be stopped once during the summer,
when they have attained about half tbeir length, to strengthen the
lower buds, and also they should be stopped when they have attained
their full length.

If the canes are short-jointed, it will be necessary to remove a
portion of the lateral growth, when the vines start into growth in
the spring. As a rule, the laterals should be about nine inches
apart on each side of the rod, and a- bunch of fruit left to every
alternate lateral. After the bunches are formed, and the grapes
gone out of flower, the laterals should be shortened back, and all
sub-laterals removed as fast as they make their appearance, to afford
the fruit the fullest exposure to the beneficial influence of the sun ;
the bunches will require thinning lightly when the berries are of the
size of very small peas, to enable the latter to attain their full size,
which of course it is impossible for them to do when they are left
unthinned, as is usually done in the case of vines- in the open.

Vines raised from eyes are the best for outdoor, as they are for
indoor planting, but as many readers of this do not possess the
necessary conveniences or skill for that mode of propagation, a few
hints on one or two ways in which a stock can be more readily raised
will, in all probability, be useful.

Cuttings afford the readiest means of raising a stock when there
is no vine already in the garden, and, with ordinary care, strike very
freely. Some time in November select moderately short-jointed and
medium-sized shoots, that are well matured; fasten them together,
in a bundle, and insert them temporarily in the border, and protect
from very severe frost. Early in March cut them into lengths of
three or four joints- each; remove the two lowest buds,, and
plant them firmly in well-prepared soil in the open border, deep
enough for the bud nearest the top to be just above the surfaces.
"With a little attention in watering, and keeping clear of weeds, the
larger portion will be nicely rooted by the autumn, and be in good
condition for planting, or they may be transplanted and planted out
in their permanent quarters the following autumn. In propagating
vines by layers, it is simply necessary to select a well-ripened shoot,
and after cutting it half way through, in a slanting direction, on the
side, that it will be lowest when it is pegged down in the soil, and
then fastening them just below the surface, as pourtrayed in Figs.
3 and 4. This should be done some time during October or
March, and a small piece of potsherd placed in the wound, to pre-
vent its closing. One bud only should be allowed above the sur-
face, and the others rubbed off. The layers, under ordinary cir-
cumstances, will be well rooted by the end of the summer, but it
is generally preferable to defer taking them off uutil early in the
autumn.

Fig. 3 shows the mode of layering in pots, and Fig. 4 that of
laying in the open border. If strong shoots are selected, and
the layers watered when required, vigorous canes, several feet in
length, may be secured the first season. A number of vines may
be raised very quickly, by pegging a strong cane down in a shallow
trench, and then just covering it with sandy soil. Provided the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 307

soil is kept moist in dry weather, roots will be emitted through-
out the whole length of the cane ; and as each bud will form nice
little canes, a very large number of vines may be raised with very
little trouble.

The best sort for the open walls are Early White Malvasia,
Millers Burgundy, Espiran, and Royal Muscadine. In very favour-

Fig. 3. Fig. 4.

Layering the Gbape Vine.

able situations the Black Hamburgh may be planted, but as it requires
rather more heat than we usually have, it cannot be depended
upon. It should be planted sparingly in very favourable situations
only.

FOKCING ASTILBE (HOTEIA) JAPONICA.

BY THOMAS TB.USSLEE,
Head Gardener, High Leigh, Hoddesdon.

'UKING the last few years this elegant plant has acquired
an immense popularity, especially in the neighbourhood
of the Metropolis. But it i& not prized a whit more
than it deserves, for it is undoubtedly one of the most
elegant plants grown for the decoration of the con-
servatory and dinner table, during the early spring months. The
demand for it in this country is now so large, that it is cultivated in
Holland very extensively for supplying roots ready for forcing, and
these are imported in almost fabulous quantities by the leading dealers
in Dutch bulbs, such as Messrs. Hooper & Co., of the Central Avenue,
Covent Garden, through whose kindness these remarks are illus-
trated with a portrait of a complete plant. It is so well known
that there are but few who are not more or less acquainted with it,
but for the sake of that few, it appears necessary to say that the
leaves are of a bright glossy green, and the inflorescence pure white,
presenting a charming contrast against the brilliant leafage.

The roots imported, ready for forcing, consist of several crowns
each, and should, as soon as they come to hand, be potted in as small
a size pot as possible, without their being divided or otherwise dis-
turbed. Use a light rich compost, consisting of loam, leaf-mould, and
thoroughly decayed manure, in equal parts. The pots must be well
drained, for when the plants are in full growth they will require
liberal supplies of water, and unless means are provided for carrying
off the superfluous moisture quickly, a danger will exist of the soil
becoming sour through its remaining in a constant state of saturation.

308

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Pot firm and bury them just deep enough for the points of the
crowns to show above the surface of the soil. After potting, give
them a good watering to settle the soil, and set them in a cold pit,
but apply sufficient protection during severe weather to prevent the
soil becoming frozen.

Unless a large stock is grown they should remain in the frame
until February, otherwise a few may be started about a month
earlier. For amateurs, who only have a dozen or so, the first men-
tioned month will be quite early enough to start the first batch in
heat. From the pit they should be removed to the greenhouse, and be
placed near the glass. In a short time they will begin to show signs of
growth, and then, and not until then, they may, a few at a time,
remove to a rather higher temperature. A temperature intermediate
between that of the greenhouse and the stove is the most suitable, lor

ASTILBE (HOTEIA) JAPONICA.

they must be pushed on very slowly, and not be hurried ; if it is a
matter of necessity to put them in the stove or forcing pit, direct
from the greenhouse, place them in the coolest end and allow them to
remain there during the first week or ten days, to render the change
as slight as possible. To put the case in the clearest manner possible,
they should be first started in a temperature of 50', and have a rise
of 55°, from thence a rise to 60°, and then allow the temperature to
rise gradually to 70°. It is not essential that these temperatures
should be strictly adhered to, but the cultivator will act wisely in
adhering to them as closely as circumstances will permit. Those who
have not the convenience of a stove or forcing pit may have a beau-
tiful display later in the season by keeping the plants in the green-
house from the period mentioned above until they are in full bloom,
where they can remain or be employed in the decoration of the indoor
apartment as may be considered the most desirable. Even when the

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 309

conveniences for forcing them does exist, a few should remain in the
greenhouse to maintain a succession, until late in the season. At all
stages of growth they must be kept near the glass and have liberal
supplies of water at the roots. "When in the conservatory the pots
may be placed in saucers containing half an inch of water, and no
more ; the plants after they go out of bloom may, provided the
season is sufficiently advanced, be planted out in a bed of rich soil at
a distance of fifteen inches apart each way ; and then if kept free from
weeds and watered liberally during dry weather until they are well
established, they will form strong crowns for forcing the following-
season. Those forced early should be kept in a cold frame until the
early part of May, which is the earliest moment they should be fully
exposed to the weather.

HINTS ON GATHERING FRUIT.

IJOST people are disposed to gather the autumn fruits too
soon. They see the days shortening, they hear the trees
creaking in the wind, and they find the ground strewed
with windfalls ; and from these premises they jump at
the conclusion that the fruit ought to be gathered. But a
certain percentage of a crop may fall, from various causes, before the
crop is ripe. The diseased portion will lose its hold, or the wind may
dislodge what is sound, long before the portion which remains firm is
fit to gather. A rule is generally adopted by gardeners, that if the
pips of apples or pears are turning brown, the crop may betaken;
but we should rather say that a decidedly dark and settled hue of the
seed is a safer- criterion. As to the objection that waiting late into
the autumn causes a loss of the fruit by falling, it has little weight,
because it is by this process that the weaker and least sound fruit is
got rid of, while the best remains. Taking the crop too early will
not only injure the good fruit by causing it to shrivel, but will also
render frequent removals necessary in order to separate from the
stock the rotten ones, which would of themselves have fallen from
the tree if more time had been given.

A most important matter is gathering the fruit without bruising
it in the slightest degree. Apples and pears bought in the market
are generally much specked, by which their beauty is spoiled ; and
most of this is occasioned by blows received both in gathering and
in rolling the fruit from one basket to another. This can scarcely
be avoided when orcharding is carried on largely; but amateur
gardeners cannot well give too much attention to gathering their fruit.
We find a coat with deep^ side-pockets better than a basket hung to
the ladder — the usual mode of gathering; such receptacles are quite
under command, and may be made to hold a good deal.

The kind of weather during which the gathering is performed is
a matter of importance; The trees should be thoroughly dry, and
a vviudy day is- to be chosen, if possible.

A Practical Fruit- Grower.

310 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HYACINTHS FOE EXHIBITION.

BY ROBERT OTJBRIBGE,

Church "Walk Nursery, Stoke Newington.

[N the cultivation of the Hyacinth, whether for exhibition
or conservatory decoration, the bulbs should be managed
in exactly the same manner, to develope the flower
spikes to the fullest extent possible, and ensure a full
return for the outlay incurred in the purchase of the
bulbs. It should always be remembered that the Dutch put the
flower spikes into the bulbs, and all that the cultivator has to
do is to bring them out, and therefore the necessary attention
should be paid to ensure their being brought out in the best possible
manner.

The cultivation of the Hyacinth is a very simple matter, as will
be seen by the directions here given, which, it is hardly neces-
sary to say, should be strictly followed. One of the most important
points is to select hard, sound, well-ripened bulbs, for the fine spikes
of bloom cannot be had from those soft and spongy, even if they are
large in size.

The growth must be prolonged over as long a season as possible,
and consequently early potting must be practised. Pot the bulbs
as early after the appearance of this as possible, especially if they
are wanted for very early flowering, and have to be forced. This
will give them plenty of time to form roots and get well established.
When this is accomplished before they are placed in the warmth,
there will be little danger of any of them refusing to push up the
spikes at the proper time. Dumpiness can be safely attributed to
the bulbs not being properly furnished with roots, and it is a waste
of time to put paper caps over them with the idea of drawing the
spikes up. The fault lies with the roots, and if they are all right
there will be little or no fear of a failure. Good turfy-loam and
well-decayed cow-dung, at the rate of three parts loam to two of
manure, chopped up roughly and mixed with a sixth-part of silver-
sand, forms a capital compost for hyacinths as well as other bulbs.

Use six-inch pots, and let them be well drained, by placing a
layer of crocks in the bottom. Put one bulb in each pot ; press the
soil rather firm in the pots, and when they are filled to within an
inch of the rim, insert the bulbs and fill the soil firmly about them.
The neck of the bulb should show just above the soil. When they
are simply placed on the surface with a little loose soil about them,
the weight of the spike will probably topple them over. The sod
should be used in a moderately moist condition, and then no water-
ing will be necessary until they come from the plunge beds. When
all are potted, make up a good bed of coal-ashes through which the
worms cannot penetrate, and stand the pots upon it. This done, turn
a small sixty-pot over each bulb, and cover with coal-ashes, spent
hops, or cocoa-nut-fibre refuse, to the depth of six or eight iuches.
Here they should remain for five or six weeks, and then be brought into

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 311

the forcing-house as wanted. The young growth must be inured to
the light in a gradual manner, and the plants kept near the glass.
After they are well started into growth, water liberally, and let them
have a breath of fresh air during the warmest part of the day ; but
it must be admitted without chilling the tender growth.

The bulbs must not be left in the .plunge bed long enough for
the foliage to grow long and become blanched. Therefore, when
the flowers are not wanted until late in the spring, lift them out of
the plunging material and place them in a .cold frame or pit, where
light and air will have free access to them. Those for early flower-
ing must not be exposed to too great a heat, or the flower-spikes and
foliage will be drawn up weak and spindly ; and at all times keep as
close to the glass as possible, because neat, properly-developed
foliage that will maintain an erect position without support is nearly
of as much importance as good spikes of flowers, and will tell with
equal eflect in competitive groups.

Do Plants absorb Moisture through thetr Leaves ? — Two French
botanists, Prillieux and Duchartre, have recently turned their attention to this
question, and their experiments lead to the conclusion that it must be answered,
contrary to the belief of all the older botanists, in the negative. M. Duchartre's
experiments were made for the most part on epiphytes, plants having no direct
communication with the soil, and which are yet found to contain potash, soda,
alumina, and other ingredients which plants whose roots grow in the earth derive
from that source. It these plants derive their sustenance from the moist vapour
by which they are surrounded, it is difficult to understand how they can procure
these materials. But if they absorb not aqueous vapour, but water itself, we can at
once account for the possession of these inorganic materials. To ascertain how
far this conclusion is just, M. Duchartre placed several of these epiphytes, provided
with their aerial roots, in closed vessels filled with muist vapour; the result was to
confirm the observation of Prillieux, that under these circumstances the plants lost
weight. If, however, from any cause the plants came into contact with liquid
water, it was absorbed readily, and the plants increased in weight. When leaves,
flaccid from undue evaporation, are suspended in moist air, they recover their fresh-
ness, though they do not gain in weight; hence the inference is drawn that the
renewed vitality of the leaves is due, not to the absorption of vapour, but to the
transference of fluid from one portion of the branch to another. When leaves, how-
ever, are actually plunged in liquid water for a considerable time, ttiey do absorb
it in considerable quantities. *

Self-Fertilization a>d Cross-Fertilization of Plants. — Mr. A. W. Ben-
nett reports in the Journal of Botany for October a series of observations on this
subject. He states that there are now known to be three modes by which cross-
fertilization is especially favoured:: — the phenomena of dimorphism and trimorphism,
to which Mr. Darwin has called attention ; special contrivances for effecting the
transference of pollen by insects from one flower to another ; and the fact, which
has not yet received so much attention, that in the same flower the pistil and
stamens frequently arrive at maturity at different times. By observing a number of
British plants, he Iihs come to the conclusion that the most usual order is for the
stamens to ripen before the pistil (protandry) :: the simultaneous maturing of the
two organs (s\ naciue) is nearly equally common : while the ripening of the pistil
before the stamens (protogyny) is far more rare. Although protandry and protogyny
do not, in most cases, actually foibid the possibility of self-fertilization, they render
cross-fertilization far more likely. The most striking contrast was found to exist
between the common harebell (Campanula rotundifolia), in which the pollen is
discharged and the anthers wither up long before the stigmata are developed ; and
the Scrophularia aguatica, in which the pistil is mature very much earlier than the
stamens.

312 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

HE exhibition of the Metropolitan Floral Society at the
Crystal Palace, August 30th and 31st, and the Meeting
of the Royal Horticultural Society, September 6th, are
the only occurrences worthy of notice here. There was
a decided falling off in the exhibition of the first-men-
tioned society, which in some measure was no doubt due to the
unfavourable character of the weather experienced during the early
part of the summer. The last-mentioned meeting was remarkable
for the large number of new Dahlias exhibited.

The chief features of the exhibition at the Crystal Palace,
August 30th and 31st, were the Dahlias, Hollyhocks, Gladioli,
Asters and dinner-table decorations ; a few good stands of roses
were staged, but the season was too far advanced for them to be
presented in a condition to add much to the general effect of the
exhibition.

The best Show Dahlias staged in the several stands were Emperor,
Memorial, Flambeau, Miss Roberts, Mr. Dix, Delicata, Hugh Miller,
Toison d'Or, James Grieve, James Backhouse, John Dunnington,
John Kirby, Lady Gladys Herbert, James Bennett, Mrs. Dorling,
Flag of Truce, Lady Derby, Golden Engle, Charles Backhouse,
Golden Gem, Sir G. Smythe, Hebe, Lord Derby, Adonis, Commander,
Miss Henshaw, Paradise Williams, Lady Jane Ellis, Criterion, Mrs.
"Wellesley, Golden Drop, Eclipse, Yellow Perfection, Juliana, Netty
Buckle, Gipsy King, Chairman, Octoroon, Royalty, Harriett Tetterell,
Annie Neville, Indian Ohief, Julia Wyatt, Lothair, Leah, Vice-
Pi'esident, Mrs. Thornill, Queen of Beauties, James Cocker, Queen
of Primroses, Lightning, Royalty, Grand Sultan, Juno, Artemus
Ward, Prince of Prussia, James Hunter, Miss Nilsson, Mr. Dix,
Mrs. Bolton, Monarch, Miss Henshaw, Earl Pembroke, Mrs.
Dodds, Mr. Wyndham, James Hayward, Mary Keynes, Amy
Creed, Edward Spary, W. Lucas, Marchioness of Bath, Vice-
President, Queen of Beauties, George Wheeler, John Neville.

The best of the fancy varieties staged were Grand Sultan, Queen
of Spots, Miss Wilson, Leopardess, John Salter, Hero of York,
Fanny Sturt, Artemus Ward, Mr. Wickham, Miss Annie, Bessie
Wyatt, Pauline, Viceroy, Butterfly, Attraction, Mrs. Bunn, Sam
Bartlett, John Sealey, Richard Dean, Flora Wyatt, Lightning,
Prince of Wales, Monarch, Ebor, Annie Purchas, Master Johnny,
Octoroon, Chang, Leopard, Sparkler, Queen Mab, Galatea, Pluto,
Coquette, and Gem of Roses.

Hollyhocks were not shown largely, but both spikes and blooms
were very fine. In the class for six spikes, the best spikes shown
were those of Alba Snperba, Midnight, Walden Primrose, Fair Helen,
Queen of Yellows, Carus Chater, Peri, Whitby King, Willingham,
Defiance, Coronet, Cygnet, and Prince Alfred. The finest cut blooms
were those of Prince Albert, Champion, Juno, Coronet, Purity,
Triumph, Marvellous, Scarlet Gem, Edward Speed, Eclipse, Fred
Chater, Majestic, Hercules, Walden King, Sanspareil, Alfred Chater,

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 313

Conquest, Walden Primrose, Carus Chater, Purity, Leviathan. Arch-
bishop, Standard Bearer Groldfinder, Leah, Lord Napier, and Exhi-
bitor.

The finest stand of Gladioli was that contributed by Messrs.
Kelway & Son, Langport, in which occurred magnificent spikes of
Madame Desportes, Lord Poltimore, Victory, Piccioli, Glow, Estella,
Celebrity, Eugene Scribe, Florence, Monarch, Phoenix, Emmeline,
Pretender, Felix, Meyerbeer, Le Proges, Mathilde Landevoisin,
Etendard, Lucius, Belle Gabrielle, Splendour, Lacepede, Distinction,
Day Dream, Mrs. Owen, Climax, Norma, Emblematic, Sir Thomas
Symons, Armide, and Moliere.

Some seedling Hollyhocks were shown. The best were : — From
Mr. "Wheeler, of Warminster : Lady Herbert, large, finely formed,
clear pinky flesh. Royal Prince ; colour, rich ruby-red. Fallax, ruby-
red, one shade deeper than Royal Prince. From Mr. W. Chater,
Saffron Walden : Prince Albert, a fine flower of the grandest
character ; large, closely packed, the colour pale cream, dashed with
warm flesh ; quite an acquisition. Walden King, a good deep ruby-
red. From Mr. J. J. Chater, Cambridge : Bismarck, a novel flower.
Peerless, pinky buff. Albert Memorial ; colour, ruby-red. Lady
Beaconsfield Improved, .delicate fresh carmine-pink. From Mr. B.
Porter, gardener to Mrs. Benham, Isleworth : Lady HawJee, rich
rosy pink. From Messrs. Kelway and Son,. Langport : Lord Hawhe ;
colour, pure pink.

Amongst the new Dahlias occurred — from Mr. C. Turner, Slough :
Mrs. Saunders, delicately tinted with white on a pale yellow ground ;
Golden Ball, a curious shade of buff-orange ; Bob, reddish buff;
Sybil, delicate lilac; H. G. Quilter, dull buff, centre purplish. From
Mr. G. S. P. Harris : Flower of Kent, colour clear canary yellow ;
J'lirilij, delicately tipped rosy lilac on a ground of blush; Cherub,
colour buff. From Mr. Wheeler, of Warminster : Hogarth, clear
buff. Sylph, bright lilac tipped.

Mr. Eckford, of Coleshill, the raiser of the varieties figured in
the Floral Would for last March, sent a remarkably fine lot of
new Verbenas, the best of which were British Queen, a fine large
flower of a delicate pinkish-white colour slightly suffused with palest
pink ; Pluto, dazzling vermilion-scarlet passing into fiery crimson,
HercAiles, clear claret ; Miss F. Bouverie, deep mauvy pink ; Master
Mark, with carmine shade ; Captain, rich soft purplish pink ; Lady
Edith, French white with pink centre; Acme, deep reddish pink;
Isa Brunton, fine claret purple ; Memorial, salmon-pink shaded with
carmine, yellow eye ; Lady. Gertrude, pale lilac with carmine eye.

In the stands of Gladioli, staged by Messrs. Kelway & Son and
Mr. Douglas, were several fine seedlings. From the former, Victory,
orange-red with bluish feather, fine and distinct ; Gloio-worm, orange-
scarlet, with yellow blotch on lower petal ; very brilliant ; Felix, liomt
scarlet, feathered purple and white ; Magnificent, very brilliant
scarlet with maroon feather ; grand ; Lucius, reddish orange with
light purple feather ; and Fairy Bells, salmon-pink, purple feather;
and Sylvia, reddish scarlet, feathered with purple, and white stripe
down the centre of each petal, from the latter, were, remarkably good.

314 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

The best of the new Dahlias exhibited at the meeeting of the
Royal Horticultural Society were — From Mr. Charles Turner : Kate
Haslam, bright rose pink, large, full, and fine ; Souvenir d'Herbert
Turner, sulphur, changing to French white ; John Standish, deep
bright crimson ; Mrs. Maunders, yellow tipped with white ; Mrs.
Waite, delicate rose. From Mr. G. Parker: Lady Herschal, creamy
white, heavily tipped with bright carmine. From Mr. G. Rawlings,
Old Church, Romford.: Maid of Essex, white tipped with rosy purple.
From Mr. Lidgard, Hammersmith : Model, a bedding variety, with
very large flowers of a deep crimson hue. From Mr. J. Keynes,
Salisbury: Dolly Varden, creamy pink, lightly flaked with purple;
William Keynes, bright scarlet; Marchioness of Lome, light yellow
tipped with rose ; William Laird, light rose.

New Verbenas were contributed by Mr. C. J. Perry and Mr.
Eckford. The most promising from Mr. Perry were Sunbeam, deep
crimson scarlet; Distinction, large, blush-white, purplish-rose centre ;
Evening Star, white, carmine eye ; Sprite, white, large pink centre ;
Coronation, blush, heavily striped with crimson ; Pink Queen, deep
carmine, lemon eye; Nelly Mole, white, rose centre; Gem, light
blush, deep rose-carmine centre ; and Emma Weaver, blush-rose,
carmine centre. The best from Mr. Eckford were Purple Gem, deep
bluish purple, likely to be a grand bedder ; The Ron. Frank, deep
pink self; IsaBrunton, purple maroon, large white eye, fine; Sandy,
orange-red self; Acme, pink self; Captain, orange-scarlet; Crown
Jewel, white ; Lady Gertrude, lavender, purple ring round the eye ;
Kingcraft, deep crimson, white eye ; and Pluto and Lady Edith,
described above.

Mr. Pearson, Chilwell, exhibited several new grapes, the best of
whicli was Dr. Royg, a white variety in the way *>1 Foster's Seedling,
but better in every way. The vine ha3 a stronger constitution, and
the flavour is much richer.; altogether it is a very valuable addition
to the list of white grapes. G. G.

Colossal Asparagus. — Mr. Peter Henderson, an American citizen of New
Jersey, claims in the Press to having at last found a distinct variety of Asparagus.
Previously he had repeatedly contended that all the so-called varieties were merely
differences produced by culture, soil, and climate. The new variety was grown with
the ordinary kind, both having beun planted in the spring of 1868, each being then
one year from the seed, and both grown to a large extent in a market garden in
Long Island. The soil was examined, and found to be as nearly the same as it
could well be, yet the two beds of Asparagus showed a difference that left no longer
a shadow of a doubt of their being entirely distinct varieties. Jn the old variety he
found no shoot thicker than one inch in diameter, and averaging 20 shoots to a hill,
while in the colossal many shoots were found 1^ inch in diameter, and averaging 35
shoots to a hill — an enormous growth when it is remembered that the plant was
only three years from the seed. The .mode of cultivation is very like the French
one — the rows being six. feet apart, and the plants four feet apart in the row. 'Ihe
average clear profit annually on the old sort is estimated to be over £56 per acre,
and over £87 per acre on the new ; but some growers in the same region estimate
their profits on Asparagus at nearly double these rates ; and it is expected that it
will soon prove a very valuable crop to be raised in the Southern States for the early
supply of the Northern markets.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 315

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR OCTOBER.

Elower Garden. — After the middle of the month the summer
bedders have such a wretched appearance, that the sooner they are
cleared off after that time the better. Where spring gardening is
carried out, the beds ought to be cleared soon, and then filled with
the plants for spring flowering. This is necessary to enable them
to make a fresh growth, and get established in their new quarters
before the weather gets too cold, and stops their progress. A good
display of spring flowers can be got up for such a trifling amount
of skill and labour, that no flower-garden ought to be bare of flower-
ing plants during April and May. The best things for spring
bedding are Silene, Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Arabis, Alyssum,
Aubrietias, Pansies, and Iberis, and spring bulbs. Good selections
of the cheapest and best bulbs for the open border are given
on another page, therefore nothing further need be said about
them here. The late Tulips must not be planted until next
month, and the Anemones and Rauunculuses are as well out of the
ground until next February. Both these subjects prefer well-
pulverized soil, and the beds which they are intended to occupy
ought to be dug over at once, and the surface left rough, to give
the weather greater power to act upon it. Plant every kind of
hardy herbaceous plant from the cutting-pot or seed-bed. Take up
and pot all zonate and variegated geraniums which are intended to
be preserved during the winter, for they seldom do much good after
exposure to several sharp frosts. The dead foliage can be removed ;
but avoid breaking or cutting the branches, as spring is the best
time for pruning them. Place under shelter, and protect from frost;
but at all other times ventilate freely, and give little water until the
turn of the winter, when they will be established in the soil.
Securely stake Chrysanthemums both in pots and the open borders,
to prevent injury from winds. Tie out in a natural manner, and
avoid the wretched system of using one stake, and tying all the
growth into a bundle round it. Take up Dahlia tubers as soon as
the tops are dead, and spread them out separately in a cool dry place
to get thoroughly dry before storing for the winter. This important
point is frequently lost sight of, and a mass of rotten pulp in the
spring is the consequent result. It is also necessary to protect from
frost, by covering them with dry hay or litter in severe weather.
The planting of deciduous trees and shrubs must be pushed on
vigorously, and if done carefully, all moderate-sized specimens will
scarcely feel the shift. This is also a good time for transplanting
evergreens, if not done as advised early in the autumn.

Kitchen Garden. — Much anxiety and disappointment might
be avoided during the summer, if proper care and attention were
paid to this department at this season. Trench and ridge up all
vacant quarters that are not to be occupied during the winter. This
will give the soil, brought up from the bottom of the trench, ample
opportunities to be thoroughly pulverized. Where the second spit
is unfit for bringing to the top, open out a trench in the ordinary

316 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

way ; but simply break it up, and leave it in the bottom of the
trench. Remove stems of Asparagus, dress the beds with rotten
manure, and cover with a few inches of soil from between the alleys.
Capsicums and Tomatoes, still unripe, must be gathered and laid
out singly in a dry room or warm greenhouse to ripen. Take up and
store Carrots, Beet, and Potatoes ; the Parsnips are as well lefc in the
ground for the present, but on the approach of severe frost it is well
to lift a few for immediate use. Lettuce and Endive fit for use
must either be lifted and laid in by their heels, or be protected from
frost and damp with hand-glasses, ground vineries, or cloches. Tie
up successional batches, and choose a dry day for the operation.
Towards the end of the month is a capital time for making fresh
plantations of Rhubarb. Let the ground be well manured and
trenched, and a moist situation selected if possible.

Fruit Garden. — Raspberries, and Currant and Gooseberry
bushes, may be planted towards the end of the month, and cuttings
of the last two-named fruits struck if desirable. Remove the eyes
that will be below the surface, and open out a trench six inches
deep, and lay the cuttings in at a distance of four inches apart, and
fill in, and tread the soil firm. Gather Apples and Pears as fast as
they are sufficiently advanced. Keep the early and late ripening
varieties as far apart as practicable, to prevent the exhalations
arising from the former interfering with the keeping qualities of the
latter. Trench and prepare fruit borders for planting as soon as
possible, so that there may be no loss of time in planting the trees..

Greenhouse. — House at once every description of plants re-
quiring shelter under glass during the winter. This is particularly
necessary in the case of Azaleas, Camellias, Epacris, and other hard-
wooded plants, or the heavy rains will drench the soil and do an
immense amount of injury, by saturating the soil at a time when the
plants are unable to absorb it. Sudden changes must be avoided,
aud all the air possible must be admitted in favourable weather.
The stock of Gauntlet Pelargonium, if well established, and now
jjlaced in a genial growing, temperature of 55°, and kept near the
glass, will maintain a supply of cut flowers throughout the winter..
The plants must be strong and well-rooted, or it will be a waste of
time to force them. Shift the earliest batch of show Pelargoniums
into pots ODe size larger, and keep the whole of the stock near the-
glass, and free from insect pests and mildew. Eumigate with tobacco,
or tobacco-paper, or dust with tobacco powder,, on the first appear-
ance of green-fly or thrip, and dust with sulphur immediately mildew
begins to develope itself. Cinerarias and Herbaceous Calceolarias
will require the same treatment in this respect. Primulas for early
flowering will be materially benefited by being placed in a genial
growing temperature of 503, later batches will make good progress
in a temperature five degrees lower : avoid a damp atmosphere.
Dry off Cannas and Fuchsias ready for wintering in a dry outhouse,
where they can be securely protected from frost. In case of a spell
of damp weather towards the end of the month, apply a little fire-
heat, early in the day, to. dry up the dampness,;and change the air
within the house..

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 317

Stove. —All except the winter-flowering plants will have com-
pleted their growth, and, therefore, require less heat and moisture
than hitherto. Euphorbias, Thyrsacanthus, Poinsettias, flowering
Begonias, Luculias, and Gesneras, must have every encouragement
to enable them to complete their growth quickly. The temperature
of the orchid-house must also be considerably reduced, and Cattleyas
and Dendrobes have very little water.

Forcing. — Pines swelling their fruit require plenty of moisture,
and a close warm corner ; but those just ripening require a light
open position, with plenty of air to develope the flavour. There will
be some difficulty in complying with the requirements of both in
the same house ; but much may be done by judicious arrangement.
Grapes that are to hang for any length of time must be kept dry
and cool, therefore all plants underneath must be removed, and a
little fire-heat used in damp weather. The house must not, how-
ever, be overheated, or the berries will shrivel. Open the ventilators
aa wide as possible, in peach and orchard-houses, at all times, unless
they are used for protecting bedding and other plants ; in that case,
take advantage of every favourable opportunity for air-giving. See
to inside borders, and water if necessary. Of course the soil must
not be kept so wet as when the trees are in full growth ; but if
allowed to get dust-dry, the buds will drop off wholesale directly
•the trees begin tc start into growth in the spring. Strawberries
intended for forcing must be protected from the heavy rains. A
cold frame or orchard-house is the best place for them after the end
of the month. Laying the pots on their sides, one above the other,
so as to form a ridge, is also a capital plau for dealing with them
when house or frame room is scarce.

Pits and Frames. — Give plenty of air to bedding stuff, and
pot up geraniums struck in the open border, before they get too
firmly established, or be caught by the frost. They can be potted
either singly, or three in each three-inch pot. The last-mentioned
;plan is the best, because when they are potted off singly they start
.away, and grow vigorously up to the time of their being turned out
into their summer quarters. Auriculas and Pansies must have plenty
of air, and careful watering, in fine open weather draw the lights off
entirely, but on no account must the stock be exposed to rains.
Keep a sharp look-out for mildew and green-fly, and dust with
sulphur for the former, and fumigate for the latter.

Gleichenia Cultube. — The splendid ferns of this magnificent family
require careful management when young, and it is desirable to give them as much
warmth as they will bear without becoming rusty. The soil should be good turfy
peat in a rather lumpy state, with quite a fourth part of silver sand and finely-broken
charcoal added. The drainage of the pots sbould be perfect and the plants should
always be grown in as small-sized pots as possible, overpotting being carefully
avoided. Several of the new species thrive in the greenhouse if taken care of, but
such as G. dichotoma, G. furcata, and G. pubescens require the stove.

318

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

GER-P8ST F6R PURCHASERS

OP PIJOTS, SEEDS, ETC,

SELECTION OF THE BEST HYACINTHS;
ETC., FOR' CONSERVATORY DECORATION.
AND EXHIBITION.

A SELECTION OF THIRTY-SIX CHEAP HYACINTHS
FOR THE CONSERVATORY AND FLOWER-GARDEN.

As the single varieties are far superior to
the double, twelve only of the latter will be
named, and all the remainder will be single.
Double Red — Alida Catheriua, Bouquet
(S^S"1" Tendre, Princess Royal, Waterloo. Double

White — A-la-mode, Miss Kitty, Prince of Waterloo. Double Blue —
Blocksberg, Grande Vedette, Lord Wellington. Double Yellow —
Bouquet d'Orange. Sing'e Red — Ampbion, Amy, Diebitsch Sabal-
skanki, L'Ami du Cceur, Lord Wellington, Madame Hodgson, Norma, Robert
Sfei<rer, Veronica. Single White — Alba Superbissima, Grandeur a Merveille,
GianI Vainqueur, Grande Vedette, La Candeur, Mirandoline, Queen Victoria.
Single Blue — Baron Von Tuyll, Charles Dickens, Grand Lilas, Couronne de Celle,
Mimo-i, Orondatus, Prince Albert. Single Yellow — Alida Jacoba, Heroine.

SELECTION OF THIRTY-SIX HYACINTHS FOR EXHIBITION.

(Double varieties marked thus *.)

Porcelain Blue — Blocksberg,* Grand Lilas, Grand Vedette, Van Speyk.* Blue
Shades — Argus, Baron Von Tuyll, Charles Dickens, Garrick.* Black — General
Havelock, Laurens Koster.* Pure White— Alba Maxima, Grand Vainquer, Madame
Van der Hoop, Mont Blanc, Snowball, Prince of Waterloo,* Queen of the Nether-
lands. Blush — Bouquet Royale,* Emmeline, Norma, Tubirlora. Dark Red and
Crimson— Lord Macaulay, Mrs. Beecher Stowe, Robert Steiger, Solfaterre, Von
Schiller. Rose and Pink — Cavaignac, Madame Hodgson, Queen Victoria, Princess
Royal*, Ornement de la Nature. Mauve and Lilac— Haydn,* L'TJnique. Orange
Due de Malakoff. Yellow — Alida Jacoba, Ida.

SELECTION OF THIRTY TULIPS FOR THE CONSERVATORY.

Ten Double-floivering Varieties — Belle Alliance, Couronne des Roses, Gris Delria>
La Candeur, Murillo, Due Van Tholl, Lord Wellington, Rex Rubrorum, Toumesoi.
Yellow Rose.

Twenty Single-flowering Varieties. — Bride of Haarlem, Canary Bird, Cottage
Maid, Couleur Cardinal, Duchesse de Parma, Golden Prince, Joost Van Vondel,
Keizerkroon, La Belle Alliance, La Plaisante, Moliere, Yellow Pottebakker, White
ditto, Scarlet ditto, Proserpine, Rose Aplatis, Rose Luisante, Vermilion Brilliant,
and Thomas Moore.

EIGHTEEN EARLY-FLOWERING TULIPS FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Double — Due Van Thol, Duke of York, Gloria Solis, Imperator Rubrorum, La
Candeur, Rex Rubrorum, Rose Eclante, Tournsol, Yellow Rose. Single— Bride of
Haarlem, Brutus, Canary Bird, Cottage Maid, Duchesse de Parma, Keizerkroon,
Thomas Moore, Yellow Prince.

SELECTION OF SIX NARCISSI.

Bazelman Major, Grand Monarque, Grand Solail d'Or, Czar of Russia, Queen
Victoria, and States-General.

SELECTION OF TWELVE VARIETIES OF CROCUS FOR POT-CULTUBE.

Albion, Aletta, Wilhelmina, Argus, Comtesse de Moray, La M;ijestuiu;e, La
Tour d'Auvergne, Sir John Franklin, Ne Plus Ultra, Prince Albert, iSir Walter
Scott, and New Golden Yellow.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 319

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Thrips or Achtmenes. — V. Y. — The leaves are infested with tlirip through
having been prown in. too dry an atmosphere. They have been exposed to the sun,
for some of the leaves are partly burnt. These plants require a moist atmosphere
when growing, and plenty of shade in bright weather. When in bloom, cool,
shaded, and a liberal amount of water, is best for prolonging the beauty of the flowers.
The best advice that we can give you is to dry them off gradually, and burn the
dead stems and foliage when they are cut away from the bulbs.

Propagating Boxes. — Constant Reader. — It is a bad plan to have boxes for
striking cuttings too large. A good size is 3 feet long, 15 inche's wide, and 4 inches
in depth ; 9|-inch board will make capital boxes, and there will be very little waste
in cutting them up for boxe9 of the above-mentioned size. If the joints fit close
together, bore a few holes in the bottom to allow the free escape of the water.
These boxes will be invaluable for pricking off all kinds of seedlings and cuttings
in the spring.

Red Grapel. — Grape Grower.— Overloading the vines, or not giving sufficient
air when colouring, would account for the reddish appearance of your grapes. In
cold and rather wet borders we seldom see well-coloured grapes. When the foliage
is too dense overhead to admit a proper proportion of light, it is an impossibility
to colour grapes well.

Propagating Manetti Stocks. — A Young Eosarian. — You can easily obtain
a stock of these by cutting the strong shoots into lengths of eight inches in the
autumn. Remove the lower buds, and plant them in rows in the open ground an
inch or so apart ; but if you want good roses, grow them on their, own roots.

Outdoor Vine. — A. B. — If you want fine bunches thin them regularly,
removing the bunches entirely where they are crowded together, and thinninf out
the berries in the branches with a small pair of scissors to allow them to swell.

Gathering Everlasting Flowers. — W. C. — All everlastings should be
gathered before they expand fully. To preserve the whitness of the white ones, we
suppose attention to the rule just given to be of the first importance, and, next, to
keep them always protected from dust. The white everlastings of the shops are
probably bleached by means of sulphur vapour.

Fuchsia-Buds Dropping. — X. Y. Z. — Most likely the plants have quite ex-
hausted the soil in which they are growing ; this is a very common cause at this time
of the year. Shift the young and middling-sized plants you mention at once into
good soil, consisting of fibrous loam, leaf-mould, rotten dung, and silver sand •
after a few weeks' growth they will bloom finely through the latter end of the
autumn. Try a little guano-water, mixed at the rate of half an ounce to the
gallon, on the old plants. If they are too far gone, and it foils to have a salutary
effect, set them out of doors in a shady position to ripen their wood. Those grown
out of shape, and not wanted for propagating, destroy at once.

Culture of Agavas. — A Lover of Succulents.— All the Agavas and Yuccas
require a soil composed of rich loam, a little old, dry, chippy dung, leaf-
mould, and a good admixture of broken crocks, lumpy charcoal, and brick rubbish.
The pots should be well drained with large crocks at the bottom, then a layer of
smaller ones, and then some of the' roughest of the soil. They are propagated by
suckers, which may be taken off now if of moderate size, and struck in sandy
peat and loam. They like sun, and during the summer plenty of water ; in winter
very little, or none at all. Broken leaves may be cut off close with a sharp knife'
but the less the plants are cut or injured the better. Do not shift to laro-er pots
unless the pots are already full of roots, but, if they really require more
room, shift at once without breaking the ball, and give plenty of water and shade for
a week. When growing, an occasional sponging of the leaves with soft tepid water
will do them good, but they must not be exposed to sun while the foliage is wet.

Abutilon Thompsoni.— A Lady Gardener. — The following extract from Hib-
berd's " Beautiful-leaved Plants " will afford you the information in which you are
in search of. It is the best and fullest account of this beautiful plant, yet published ■
" The normal or specific form of the beautiful plant here figured is a verv old and
lightly-esteemed inhabitant of our greenhouses, which was once in bad repute as' an
unmanageable stove plant. While treated to a greater heat than was consistent

320 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

with its nature it took revenge against the cultivator by perpetually plaguing him
by its thin, unwholesome appearance, and its suitability as a breeding-place for all the
insect plagues that usually infest plants that are kept in too high a temperature.
When it was transferred from the stove to the greenhouse, it acquired better health
and considerable beauty ; it ceased to be a house of call for veimin ; it made a free
growth of cheerful light green leaves, and produced abundance of pretty bell-
shaped flowers of an orange colour, delicately marked with red stripes. From the
greenhouse it was taken to the garden, where it proved so nearly hardy that in
many favoured spots in the south of England and Ireland it survived ordinary
winters unhurt ; and of late years it has been adopted freely by Mr. Gibson in his
masterly system of emblishing the parterre with ' sub-tropical ' plants at Battersea
Park. Abutilon striatum has never enjoyed the fame it is entitled to, perhaps
because, in the first instance, through ignorance of its hardy constitution it was a
troublesome plant to keep alive ; and in the second, that when reasonably treated
it was so easy to keep and to grow, that very few ever took the trouble to do
perfect justice to it. We believe and hope a better fate awaits the beautiful
variety * Thompsoni.' This, like the species, has had to pass through a fiery ordeal,
and at first was thought a worthless tiling, because being kept in the stove its
beauty was stewed out of it. But, tempora mutanta, it is the fashion now to try
every stove and greenhouse plant that exhibits distinctive characters, especially dis-
tinctive characters of leafage, in the open air; and when put to this test it came
through the trial bravely, assumed a quite novel and most attractive aspect, and so
became established as a nearly hardy fine-foliage plant, which, if planted out
during the summer, makes a display of variegated leafage, in the highest degree
beautiful and interesting. In proof of its capability for this kind of work we put
out at Stoke Newington, in the early part of May, 1869, the few plants which
Messrs. Veitch & Son supplied for the experiment. During the five weeks which
followed the date of planting the weather was more like winter than summer,
bitterly cold, with fitful gleams of sunshine, and bedding-plants, as a rule, becoming
all the while small by degrees though not beautifully less. Yet these Abutilons were
unhurt, and now, having had a good spell of genuine summer heat, they are
so beautifully coloured, and are growing so freely, that we are bound to pronounce
the plant admirably adapted for out-door embellishment, and one of the most dis-
tinct and attractive of the class^ to which it belongs. Abutilon Thompsoni was
introduced by Messrs. Veitch & Son from Jamaica, where it appears to have
originated as a garden variety of the well-known A. striatum, native of Brazil.
To do justice to it is no difficult task. It will grow freely in very light, rich loamy
soil, and its proper place in winter is in a warm greenhouse. During the summer a
thriving plant will make a growth of two to four feet, and when allowed to grow
naturally it forms a freely -branching pyramidal tree, and flowers nearly as freely as
the green-leaved species. It is, however, not in need of flowers to secure for it the
admiration of such as can appreciate the beauty of its leaves. These are elegantly
lobed, the ground-colour is a lively green, over which is spread a delicate mottling
of amber and creamy white in many shades harmoniously blended. Full exposure
to solar light is necessary to bring out these colours, therefore when grown under
glass it should never be shaded unless there is a risk of blistering, which, as a rule,
can be prevented by abundant ventilation. The plant may be increased by cuttings
at anv season, but the summer is the best time ; and of course shade and a close
atmosphere are favourable conditions for inducing the formation of roots. There
are not many Abutilons in cultivation, but a few continental varieties of A. striatum,
are much valued for their flowers, which are particularly effective when the trees
are planted out iu groups in the garden. The best varieties in addition to the
type are, Due de Malakoff, insigne, and vanosum striatum ; these have the free
habit of the species and flowers possessing distinctive fjatures."

Covering Walls of House. — H. C. IT.— The quickest growing climber is
the Virginian creeper, but it is coarse ; there is a smaller species, Ampelopsis tri-
cttspidata {syn. Veitchi), which is very rapid in growth and very neat. The fol-
lowing climbing roses are all good — namely, Felicite, 1 erpetue, Rainpante, Red
Rover, and Prince Leopold.

A Cottage Gardener. — Pears, apples, and strawberries would probably pay the
best but so much depends upon the neighbourhood. Plant at the end of the house
a tree of jargonelle or Marie Louise pears.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 321

VAEIEGATED IVIES.

(Illustrated toith a Coloured Plate.)

N the Floral "World of December, 1869, our readers
were invited to admire a few of the more distinctive
varieties of ivies in our collection. At the same time,
the paper on the classification and. nomenclature of
ivies read before the Linusean Society was reproduced,
in order to afford to those who were interested in the subject an
opportunity of considering the nature of the reformation in botanical
nomenclature, it was (and still is) our anxious desire to promote.
Having transferred to Mr. C Turner, of the Royal Nurseries, Slough,
the whole of our large specimens and stock plants of fifty distinct
varieties, which in 1869 constituted the Stoke Newington collec-
tion, the horticultural public have been enabled to obtain (by the
simple process of purchase) any of the beautiful ivies that we have
described and figured in this and in other works. But we had not
done with ivies when Mr. Turner carried away some two hundred
of our finest plants, and now our collection, though deficient in large
specimen plants, which can only be produced by years of labour, is
far more extensive than ever, and we might certainly count amongst
them two hundred varieties at the very least. It is not our intention
to trouble our readers with particulars of all these, for a large pro-
portion, of them will never receive garden names, much less be
honoured with publicity. Our object is to promote the cultivation
of a peculiarly useful class of ornamental plants, the beauties and
uses of which are as yet comparatively unknown. The accompanying
plate represents named ivies that may be purchased in the ordinary
way, and are therefore available to all, irrespective of our own
private collection, which will probably furnish to the nursery gar-
dens many additional beauties as time speeds along. It will occur
to some, perhaps, that the leaves represented in the plate are too
highly coloured; but the truth is, the best drawing, however faith-
fully reproduced, must fall far short of the splendour of the orio-inal.
The large leaf in the centre, for example, which represents the
Canescens of the list published in the Floral World of December
1869, and the Algeriensis fol. var. of the nursery catalogues, is so
exquisitely variegated that the living leaf appears to be bedewed
with an infinitesimal film of hoar frost, and the smaller leaves of
the marginata series, that are edged and flecked with a curious shade
of red, are far more richly coloured than it is possible to indicate in
a printed picture. The delicate shade of pink mixing with stripes
and dots of brilliant carmine, which appear in the leaves of many
of the smaller variegated ivies in the autumn, render them delight-
fully attractive as conservatory plants, although small -and large
alike, green* and variegated alike, never attain to such perfection
under pot culture as they do when planted out on walls facino-
north.

Now that the flower-beds are empty and the borders bare, some idea

YOL. VI. NO. XI. 21

322 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of the importance of the ivies may be deduced from the considera-
tion that those of the marginata series make edgings to beds equal
all the winter to edgings formed of variegated geraniums during the
summer, while nicely-grown pyramidal specimens of any of the
varieties in pots may be plunged in the flower-beds for winter to
afford a sumptuous furnishing. As the ivies thrive in shade, those who
love ivies may furnish their shady borders in a most delightful
manner, by planting all the more distinctive kinds, and training
them over rough logs, or on poles, or over detached heaps of mere
brick rubbish, to form rich knolls of glossy vegetation, which will be
even more beautiful in summer than in winter.

In the former plate the varieties were numbered 1 to 7, and
therefore, to prevent confusion, those in the present plate are
numbered 8 to 15. Their names are as follows : 8. Marginata,
rubra, a small silver-edged variety, which acquires an edging of
bright carmine-red in the autumn, retaining it all the winter. It is
known as " tricolor " in many nurseries. 9. Luteola, a fine tree
ivy, with leaves richly margined or mottled of a fine deep yellow
colour. This is one of the best variegated ivies known. 10. Margi-
nata major, the best of the marginata series, save M. grandis, which
was figured in the plate published December, 1869. 11. Argentea
minor, a fine tree ivy, with richly-margined leaves, the disk of a
bluish tint, the margin rich cream colour. 12. Striata, the striped-
leaved tree ivy, a variety of the large-leaved Irish ivy, the leaf heavily
blotched and striped with yellow on a ground of rich deep green.
13. Variegata, the variegated large-leaved ivy, another noble variety
of the Irish ivy, barred and blotched with gold upon a ground of
rich glossy green. 14. Discolor, the small marble-leaved ivy, a very
pretty little climbing variety, the young leaves of which are some-
times wholly white, but usually heavily blotched with white and
slightly tinged with red. 15. The large centre leaf is Canescens, the
hoary-leaved ivy, a delicate and pleasing variety of Algeriensis. In
this tlie principal surface of the leaf is of a dull glaucous green,
overspread with darker shades, and the margins are distinctly whitish.
A large mass of this ivy has a most beautiful appearance.

S. H.

THE CULTIVATION OF THE EOSE.— No. VIII.

FORMING A ROSARIUM.

IHE time has once more returned for planting roses, and
we begin by saying that roses may be multiplied to an
immense extent in any garden without causing satiety.
But it does not follow that all the roses should be
crowded into one compartment — my private opinion is
that they should not. There is a great delusion current that a rosery
is a very fine thing. A lover of roses passes half his time in dreaming
of the mighty rosarium he will have "some day," and when some
years have passed by, and he has nursed that notion until it has

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 323

rendered him half crazy, he begins to think fate very unkind not to
grant him the fulfilment of his desire, and then, perhaps, gives up
rose-growing, and breaks his heart. Whether it might be worth
while to break one's heart about it would be worth debating if a
rosery were the fine thing it is supposed to be. I do not wish to
quarrel with any enthusiast who possesses a rosery, or intends to
form one ; indeed, I am ready to help, as far as I can, every one
who purposes embarking in the undertaking, and I have already done
my best that way in the " Rose Book," where there is a design for a
rosarium on a large scale, so placed on paper that any one may work
it out without difficulty, and at an expense pretty easily ascertained.
But I shall avoid the discussion of the policy of heart-breaking on
this subject by avowing my belief that a rosarium is not a fine thing,
and that, in fact, it is not a kind use of the rose to repeat it ad
infinitum on a large tract of ground. What is the rosery at the
Crystal Palace, in bloom or out of bloom ? It is a sight to avoid ;
there is no beauty in it : the queen of flowers should have better
treatment at the hands of her votaries than to be abused in that
way. Look at any rosarium now, and what is it ? What will it be
but a wilderness of leafless sticks from this time to March next ?
When the roses are in flower, will it be as beautiful a scene as
might be otherwise created with a similar space and a similar expense ?
I think not : but I like roses intermixed with evergreens, set out in
clumps on grass turf, dispersed, divided, scattered, made to show
their splendid colours and graceful outlines by contrast with masses
of green and deepening shadows, instead of being compelled to
impress the spectator with a sense of the sameness that is possible
by a misuse of the finest subjects.

I know a few gardens where roses are grown well, and in con-
siderable numbers, and where they have a tenfold chance when in
bloom, and are not unsightly at other times, because they are inter-
mixed with fine hollies, sometimes set out in broad masses, with rich
backgrounds and belts of tree and shrub to give relief, and where
the most fastidious would not complain of satiety, and the most
rapacious rose-devourer would find enough. Give me well-planned
walks that wind easily through smooth lawns and amongst bold
blocks of trees and evergreens, and I will rejoice if I see roses
at every turn, especially if they are grouped so as to bring out
their several colours, though it is a fortunate fact that if a clump
of roses consists of various kinds brought together with no nice
fore-reckoning as to colours, they never mar each other, because
there are no strong contrasts amongst them. The English style of
gardening is admirable for the display of this most English flower,
because the bold breadths of green required, and the easy transitions
from light to shade, from unbroken turf to semi-wilderness, and from
formal lines to graceful sweeps, suit the rose at every step. On the
terrace standards are admissible ; on the lawn they are still more
appropriate; and in mixed planting tbey are the noblest of all the
subjects we possess to light up the scene with colour, and delight old
and young with their grace and perfume.

When an amateur is bent on forming a rosarium, it is a very easy

324 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

matter to waste money in producing a complication which shall at
last prove unsatisfactory, for roses — even if we select the best for
bedding purposes — do not comfortably fit into hearts and diamonds,
and the rest of the Euclidian vagaries that are to be seen in these
days in private gardens. During the month of June, groups of
such a kind may be agreeable, but in August considerably less so,
and the true bedding plants will certainly have stronger claims to
patronage on artistic grounds, whatever may be the peculiar pre-
dilection of tbe amateur for roses. I cannot imagine a more simple
and effective arrangement for a small collection than that which I
adopted fifteen years ago at Stoke Newington. On either side of the
walk was a broad piece of ground, with tall privet hedges beyond
for background. Next the privet was a narrow walk, and on the line
of the walk trellis wires strained to oak posts. Against the trellis
were a few climbers, and thence across to the central walk a regular
arrangement of standards in lines, with dwarfs next the walk ; the
whole scene forming two banks of roses with the walk between.
One advantage of such a scheme is that those who like to see a mass
of roses in bloom are sure to be gratified. Another advantage of the
arrangement is that an inspection of any particular tree may be made
without difficulty ; in fact, the rose fancier is sure to take his walks
amongst them frequently to criticise and compare, to indulge in
occasional raptures, and sometimes — who knows ? — to condemn some
of them, and determine on exchanging them for better. Another,
and not the least advantage is, that you can call it a rosery without
having committed yourself to an arrangement attended with expense,
and which cannot be easily altered. A rosery of this kind is, after
all, only a couple of broad borders, say 16 feet wide, and as long
as may be suitable to the place and the purse of the owner.

As at this season many amateurs are buying and planting roses,
a few suggestions may not be out of place. Brier roses, or in other
words, Standards, require a good deep moist loam, well manured
and industriously broken up previous to planting. A good clay will
suit them if there is no stint of labour in deep digging and breaking
up, and manure it as you would for cauliflowers. Dwarfs, whether
on own roots or Manettis, require a rather light rich loam, but robust
habited roses, such as Jules Margottin, General Jacqueminot, and
Anna Alexieff, are not particular, provided they can root deep, and
are well fed. Nevertheless, the best way to prepare the ground, if
it is a rather stiff loam, is to dress the front line where the dwarfs
are to be planted with plenty of leaf-mould and rotten manure ; and
if rotted turf can be spared for it, the stuff will not be wasted. But
let no one suppose that roses require elaborate preparations ; any
soil that will grow a good cabbage will grow a good rose, whether it
is a cabbage rose or any other kind.

To obtain suitable trees is a matter involving no difficulty. A
fastidious purchaser will manage to see and mark all the trees, and
have the sorts according to a list made out beforehand. But there
are very few people who have time to spare to buy roses in that way,
and an order sent to any of the first-class trade growers, whose
names are known well enough, specifying heights and numbers, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 32-5

leaving the dealer to select the sorts, will be sure to result satis-
factorily, and the cost of the whole would be about half what would
be charged if the sorts and the trees were selected by the purchaser.
I made a plantation like my own for a friend, and I went about it
in a most off-hand way. I wrote to Messrs. Lane and Son for so
many dozen staudards, ranging from three to seven feet, and I said
nothing about the numbers required of particular heights or sorts.
When they came in, I set the men to work in a systematic way. One
pruned head and tail, and handed them over ; the next placed them
in lots as to heights ; the next carried them to their places, and
laid them in bundles for planting. To have a plantation of roses as
true to heights as an architect would require the columns of a
portico, is out of the question — it simply cannot be done; but there
is no difficulty in arranging them to form a very regular bank, if a
fair proportion of each height is supplied in the first instance.

The work of planting should be done with care. Fellows who
blunder about, and hack and slash with spade and knife ought not
to be admitted amongst roses. They must be handled as old Izaak
Walton advises the angler to handle frogs — that is, tenderly, yet
boldly. All the long roots must be cut back ; all the wounded
roots must be shortened, so as to remove the injured parts ; there
must be no tugging and tearing, and care must be taken not to
bruise the bark. In cutting back the heads, it must be remembered
that the final pruning is to be done after they are replanted ; the
cutting back before planting is to render them more convenient for
handling, for the nurserymen send them in with all their huge
whip-like shoots full length ; it would not do for them to prune
them ; they would not look worth their money, to say nothing of
the time it would consume.

In planting, the ground should be measured off in lines, and it
is best to begin with the tallest. If these average 6 feet high, they
must be 5 feet apart in the row, or not more than five-and-twenty
in a run of 100 feet. The next row should be 5 feet removed
from the first, and the trees in it should average 4^ feet high, and
be put 4 feet asunder. The next row should be 4 feet from the
second, and the trees in it should average 3 feet high, and be 3 feet
apart in the row. If they are strong-growing 3orts, and the soil is
good, and the trees have already fine heads, give them a distance of
4 feet apart, and they will then touch each other, and make a solid
line of leaf and bloom. The front row should be 3 feet from the
last, and the bushes in it 2 feet apart, and set back 2 feet from the
edge of the walk. The quickest way to plant is to lay down the
line, place the trees, carefully laying out the roots near the surface,
throw a little earth over, and tread very lightly, just enough to keep
them upright, and so on till the whole are in their places. Then go
over them again, tread them firm, and stake them securely, and they
may remain for mouths, if need be, without any further attention.
The reason I always plant them loose in the first instance is this,
that when the whole piece is planted, I am sure to want to move a
few, and make a few exchanges. I can, therefore, take out any of
them by a mere touch, rearrange as needful, and there is no waste

32G THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of labour. Besides, this sort of work should be done quickly, for we
do not get much fine weather at the time for planting roses, and it
does them much mischief to lay about : the sooner their roots are
covered the better. By the system of merely placing them with a
shovelful of stuff over the roots, the whole lot can be got into their
places quickly, and come rain, frost, snow, or what else, they cannot
suffer; they are safe, and if not finished for a week or two no harm
can arise. But I do not counsel delay ; the true rosarian will never
shilly-shally when planting is the order of the day. The sooner the
whole job is finished the better ; but if every individual tree is
finished right out at once, some may suffer through laying about
with perhaps their roots not half covered ; and at the best it is cer-
tain that a few will have to be lifted to get them all in such order as
will satisfy an eye at all fastidious about arrangements.

Many years ago I advocated the use of iron stakes for rose-trees.
Some growers contend that iron stakes do harm, and they go on
using oak stakes instead. Now, I am certain, from long observation
and experience, that iron stakes do no harm, and that oak stakes,
and, in fact, any kind of timber supports, are really injurious, and
many a rose-tree is killed by the spread of fungus over its roots,
through contact with decaying wood. Once in three years we boil
up a cauldron of tar and pitch, thrust the ends of the iron stakes
into the fire that boils the pot, and when the ends are rather hot dip
them into the mixture. Two coats of paint on the length of the rod
finishes them ; they can be placed close to the stems of the trees,
care being taken in thrusting them down not to drive them through
the thick roots near the collar, and when the trees are tied up the
stakes are almost invisible.

The pruning can be finished any time before the 1st of March.
It may be done as soon as the planting is finished, and before the
trees are staked, for although winter pruning is not good for esta-
blished roses, because it tends to make them grow too soon in spring,
roses newly planted have enough check to prevent that, and autumn
or winter pruning will not hurt them.

It is of the utmost importance for the full enjoyment of a plan-
tation of roses to have them legibly and correctly labelled. If the
calico labels the nurserymen put on are allowed to flutter in the
wind all winter, the chances are that the writing will be washed out
before spring. Therefore, to complete the labelling quickly is a
matter of considerable importance. There are a thousand ways of
forming and attaching labels to trees. I can find nothing better
than wooden labels smeared with white lead, and written on with a
pencil while the paint is soft. Attach these with a copper wire, and
take care not to cut the bark of the tree, and leave the wire loose
enough for the tree to swell. Once a year look at every label, and
keep a list of all the sorts, in which you may make notes of their
characters and behaviour.

A SELECTION OE EIRST-CLASS ROSES THAT ELOWER EREELT IN LATE
SUMMER AND AUTUMN, AND IN MILD SEASONS UNTIL CHRISTMAS.

Hybrid Perpetuate. — Adolphe Brongniart, Baron Haussmann, Boule de Neige,
Charles Turner, Comte Raimbaud, Duchesse d'Aotte, Duke of Edinburgh, Dupny

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 327

Jamain, Edouard Morren, Elie Morel, Franijois Fontaine, Henri Ledecbaux,
Imperatrice Charlotte, Julia Touvais, Julie Treyve, La France, Leopold II.,
Madame Alice Dureau, Madame Creyton, Madame Noman, Monsieur Journeaux,
Pitord, Prince Humbert, Princess Christian, Virgil, La Duchesse de Moray, Jules
Margottin, Anna Alexieff, Madame de Carnbaceres, Madame Knorr, Madame
Charles Wood, Le Rhone, Charles Lefebvre, Vicomte Vigier, Alfred Colomb,
Senateur Vaisse, Marguerite de St. Amand, General Jacqueminot, Comte de
Nanteuil, Madame Moreau, Elizabeth Vigneron, Charles Verdier, Madame Alfred
de Rougemont, Jean Lambert, and Louise Darzius.

Bourbons and Teas. — All noted for flowering late in the year ; so also are the
pure Chinas, Gloire de Dijon, Malmaison, Mrs. Bosanquet, and Bourbon Queen.

Garden Roses. — The following is a selection of genuine garden roses, of the
section of Hybrid Perjietuals, that flower freely in the autumnal montbs : Anna
Alexieff, Albion, Aristide, Dupuis, Baron Prevost, Beauty of Waltham, Coquette
des Alpes, Cure de Charentaye, Camille Bernardin, Duchesse de Moray, Edouard
Morren, Elie Morel, Eugene Appert, General Jacqueminot, John Hopper, Jules Mar-
gottin, La France, La Brilliante, Le Rhone, Louis Darzins, Madame Charles Wood,
Madame Knorr, Marguerite de St. Amand, Madame Noman, Madame Moreau,
Marechal Vaillant, Marquise de Castellane, Paulde la Meillerez, Pavilion de Pregny,
Princess Christian, Souvenir de Charles Montault, Theiese Appert, Vicomte Vigier,
Triomphe des Beaux Arts, Victor Verdier, Sophie de Villeboisnet, Souvenir de
Caillat. There are a few pre-eminently free-flowering varieties amongst the new
division, termed Perpetual Bourbons, such as Emotion, Baronne de Maynard,
Comtesse de Brabantanne, Louise Odier, Catherine Guillot, B. Queen, Rev. II.
Dombrain ; the new white China Ducher, and the Teas generally. These also form
excellent beddiDg roses for pegging down.

S. H.

BEERY-BEARING PLANTS FOR TABLE DECORATION.

BY J. W. SILVER,
Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton.

[HE plants remarkable for the beauty of their foliage, aud
those grown for their flowers, adapted for dinner-table
decoration, have been already described, and now atten-
tion will be directed to berry-bearing plants suitable for
the same purposes. All three classes possess many
desirable qualities, and a fair proportion of each should be grown ;
but it can be said with safety that the class now under consideration
is not surpassed by either of the other two, and also that in small
gardens they are not grown so extensively as they should be. They
are generally at their best when plants in flower are scarce, and
when a large proportion of the ornamental-leaved plants are either
at rest or the old foliage has become dull and ineffective. They are
all, moreover, easy to manage, hardier in constitution, and may be
employed to decorate the dinner-table almost any number of times
without being injured in the least.

"With this brief preface, we will at once commence to enumerate
the most suitable, and, for facility of reference, take them in alpha-
betical order.

Aucuba Japonica. — We will not take up space so valuable as
that of the pages of the Elobal Wobld in recounting how this
valuable plant was grown in the stove when first introduced to
English gardens, or describe the many attempts that were made to

328 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

introduce the male plant, before it was successfully accomplished.
The hardiness of the Aucuba is established beyond doubt, and the
male plants are now plentiful, and all that we have to do is to deal
with it in relation to its adaptability for the decoration of the dinner-
table. To render the directions that will be given as plain as
possible, it is necessary to say that the Aucuba is dioecious — that
is to say, some plants bear male, and some female flowers ; and
to insure a crop of berries a fair proportion of plants of both
sexes must be grown. The pollen from the flowers produced by one
male plant will be sufficient to fertilize those of a large number of
female plants, if made the most of; but for an amateur not well
skilled in the manipulations necessary to make the most of the
poller), the males should be grown at the rate of about one to six of
the females.

There are several ways of propagating a stock, but the most
desirable way for an amateur to propagate them is by cuttings or
layers. For those well skilled in grafting, that way of increasing
the stock of any desirable kind is the best that could be adopted.
As it is necessary to have stocky specimens, young plants of the
common kind raised from cuttings should be selected for stocks, and
the grafts put on near the surface of the soil. Cuttings strike best
when put in early in the autumn, when the young growth has
become firm. In layering, select healthy, vigorous side-shoots,
make a slanting cut on the lower side of the stem, about six or
nine inches below the point, and peg the shoot firmly into the
border, and cover aboxit three inches of the stem with soil. This
should be done in the autumn, and the layers taken off when they
are well furnished with roots, and put in pots. In all cases use
well-drained pots and turfy loam, to which a small proportion of
leaf-mould or thoroughly-decayed manure has been added. The
pots also should be rather small in proportion to the size of the
plants, and the soil be pressed firm.

The main point we have to consider is the production of good
crops of berries, for unless they are well berried, they will not be
of any use whatever for the purpose for which they are intended.
The best means to secure this desirable end is to grow the plants of
both sexes in the same temperature, to insure their both flowering
at the same time. If the flowers of either appear likely to expand
in advance of the other, the earliest may be retarded by being
removed to a lower temperature ; but, in the case of the male
flowering first, the pollen may be preserved in a small tin box or
tinsel paper until required for use. It may then be applied with a
eamel's-hair brush. When the flowers of both expand at the same
time, insect agency will accomplish the necessary fertilization.

There are a large number of varieties now in cultivation, so that
there will be no difficulty in selecting six that are really distinct and
good. The following selection, without including the most expen-
sive, cannot be surpassed : (Males), A. japonica metadata mascula,
A. j. viridls mascula; (Females), A.j. lati-maculata, A.j. maculata
elegans, A. j. viridis nana, A. j. macrophylla.

Akdisia. — The beautiful and showy A. crenulata must also have

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 329

a place in this selection. It has one drawback, it requires a stove
temperature ; so that it can only be cultivated where the conve-
niences of a stove exist. It however is sufficiently hardy in con-
stitution to admit of its being employed in indoor decoration without
injury. The readiest way of increasing the stock is by seed. The
berries should be gathered when full ripe, and laid in silver sand for
some time previous to sowing. A brisk temperature and a mild bottom-
heat will be of material service in assisting the seed to vegetate quickly;
but bottom-heat is not essential to the germination of the seed.
The plants should be grown in rather small and thoroughly-drained
pots, and at all times be kept in a light position near the »lass.
A compost prepared by well incorporating together two parts fibry
peat and one part turfy loam, and sufficient sand to make the soil
feel gritty, will suit them admirably.

Rivina. — The graceful and easily-grown R. humilis is probably
one of the most useful of its class for the decoration of the dinner-
table ; its bright green leafage and pendant racemes of deep red coral-
like berries combine to render it unusually attractive. Standard
plants are very interesting, and are readily produced by training up
a single stem, and pinching out the terminal point to cause the pro-
duction of side-shoots, which soon make their appearance afterwards.
Bushy specimens are also effective, and very readily produced. The
system adopted here — which is certainly very simple — is to put
seven or eight seedling plants, when about one inch in height, in a
three-inch pot. When well-established, the points of the shoots are
nipped out, and as soon as the laterals which push from the main
stem have from four to six joints each, the points of these also must
be nipped out, and the plants, without being divided, transferred to
five-inch pots. They should then be placed in a light position in
the stove or intermediate house. Equal parts loam, leaf-mould,
peat, and well-decomposed cow manure form a compost most
conducive to a healthy development of foliage and a plentiful crop
of berries. This useful subject can be most readily raised from
seed, which should be sown early in the spring, when fully matured.

Seimmia. — The pretty 8. Jajjonica can be heartily recommended
for table-decoration, as much for its great beauty as for its perfect
hardiness. It is neat and compact in growth and effective in appear-
ance. When covered — as the plants usually are in the early part of
the summer — with their white flowers, they are very pretty, but
when loaded with large clusters of brilliant vermilion berries during
the winter, the effect produced by a well-developed specimen can
be better imagined than described. 8. oblata is readily distin-
guished from 8. Japomca by the depression at the end of the berries,
and it is far less desirable. They are propagated by seed, which
should be sown in the early part of the summer, in pans, which can
be placed either in a cold frame or in heat until the young plants
appear, when they must be removed to a lower temperature, such as
that of a cold frame. A moderately rich and open compost is neces-
sary to the production of healthy plants, and the pots should be
plunged during the summer months in the open border, and the
plants not allowed to suffer for the want of moisture at the roots.

330 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Solantjm. — The showy S. capsicastrum is very beautiful when
well grown, but it is decidedly interior to the beautiful &. hylridum
compactum, introduced by Mr. B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise
Nursery, Upper Holloway. The latter requires no training, and is
much more effective when upon the table ; indeed, it is one of the
finest subjects for conservatory decoration during the winter months
we have. To secure good specimens, well furnished with berries, by
the autumn, the seed must be sown very early in the spring, and
the seed-pots placed in a brisk temperature, such as that of a
cucumber or melon pit. Pot off singly into three-inch pots, and
when these are well filled with roots, shift them into pots one or
two sizes larger ; gradually harden off, and early in June plunge
them in an open border, with the rim of the pots just below the
level. Plants so managed will not become infested with red-spider,
green-fly, or any other of the many pests which prey upon them
when they are kept under glass all the summer ; indeed they will
not require more than one-tenth the labour and attention to keep
them in good health as would otherwise be necessary. Moreover,
they will keep dwarf and bushy, and by the autumn will be loaded
with their bright orange-red berries.

Standard specimens are produced by training up a single stem,
and then stopping it when about fifteen inches in height. The
laterals also require stopping when about three inches in length, to
insure bushy heads. In the spring they will require pruning into
shape, and as soon as the young growth is about half an inch in
length they should be taken out of the pots, the ball of soil reduced
slightly, and be repotted in the same-sized pots again. Dwarf
specimens of an extra size for conservatory decoration may be had
by pruning the plants which have done duty during the previous
winter, and repotting them as here directed, and growing them on
the second season in the same manner as advised for the first.
Fully-developed standards require two years for their production,
and the berries should therefore be removed as soon as set during
the first season.

SOUCHET'S NEW GLADIOLI FOR 1871-2.

BT EUGENE VERDIER, EILS AINE,

3, Rue Dunois, Gare d'lvry, Paris.

11E are happy to learn that the French industries are rapidly
recovering from the effects of the late war, and that we
shall this season receive our usual supplies of new roses,
gladioli, etc., from France. From our correspondents
in that country we learn that some of the new flowers
are of great promise, and well worth the attention of growers on
this side of the Channel. For the descriptive list of M. Souchet's
new Gladioli we are indebted to M. Eugene Verdier, fils aine, in
whose hands we understand they are placed for distribution.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 331

Alcyon, very beautiful spike of large flowers, ground white,
heavily bordered and flamed with rose carmine ; charming plant, very
dwarf.

Antigone, long spike of very large flowers of a tender rose,
heavily flamed with red carmine, of great effect ; perfection.

Antiope, very long and fine spike of clear cerise orange flowers,
stained with very dark carmine upon a pure white ground ; plant of
great effect.

Ariadne, very long spike of large perfect flowers, ground very
clear white, tinted rose or lilac, bordered and flamed with tender
carmine rose, the inferior divisions pure white ground ; splendid and
fine ; perfection, of moderate height.

ArsincB, fine spike of large perfect flowers, very beautiful satin
rose, flamed bright carmine, charming ; very dwarf.

Beatrix, very long spike of large perfect flowers, ground pure
white, very delicately flamed with crimson lilac; splendid and very
fine variety, of moderate height.

Celimene, very long spikes of very lsrge and very open perfect
flowers, clear red orange, heavily flamed with bright red, very bril-
liant ; splendid.

Bidon, very long and ample spike of large perfect flowers, white,
slightly tinted and flamed tender lilac, inferior divisions pure white,
moderate height ; perfection.

Jupiter, very long and fine spike of large perfect flowers, ground
clear red, very beautifully flamed with crimson red, very dark ;
splendid variety, of great effect.

Minerve, very ample spike of large very open flowers, bright
crimson, very brilliant, small red-carmine stains upon a clear white
ground, very fine tint, of great effect ; moderate height.

Ossian, very long and fine spikes of large perfect flowers, very
beautiful bright rose, tinted with violet, and flamed carmine ground ;
very fine, and of moderate height.

Phoebus, fine spike of large fire-red flowers, very striking, very
large pure white stains, of great effect ; splendid late variety, much
recommended for the striking brilliancy of its colour, unique, of
moderate height.

Virginalis, long spike of large flowers, pure white, bordered
and flamed with tender carmine rose, small growth ; very fine and
attractive.

THE MAKING A1SD THE MANAGEMENT OF THE LAWN.

insure the luxury of a "velvet lawn," is, to speak
generally, a most easy matter, and though it may be
comparatively costly in the first instance, it will prove in
the end one of the best of investments of gold in garden-
ing. The soft elastic turf of a chalky down will kindly
inform the traveller that a lawn may be laid on chalk; and the closely
bitten grassy herbage of a sandy common will in like manner suggest

332 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

that gravel and sand may be clothed for the production of a living
carpet that will last for ever. It is, however, on a deep loam or a
clay that has been well tilled, that the best example of grass turf is
to be looked for, and on such land we should prefer to operate, were
it required of us to present the best possible example of making and
keeping a garden lawn.

In the formation of a lawn, all levels must be carefully deter-
mined, and the ground thoroughly well-prepared, that there may be
no waste of labour in alterations afterwards. In the case of laying
fresh turf on the site of an exhausted plot, from which bad turf has
been removed, a heavy dressing of good manure should be dug in,
for grass needs nourishment in common with all other plants.
The last act of preparation consists in spreading over the level
ground about an inch depth of fine earth, which is to be distributed
evenly, and every stone removed by means of the rake. Then we
approach an important question — which is best, turf or seeds ? In
any and every case, turf is to be preferred, for upon the instant of
its being laid and rolled, the lawn is formed, and there is an end of
the matter. Two considerations give interest to this question — the
cost of turf is necessarily far in excess of the cost of seeds, and it
may happen that turf is not to be obtained within reasonable carting
distance. Supposing the amateur to have a choice of means and
materials, our advice would be in favour of the purchase of the best
turf possible, for any extent of ground under one acre ; but when
we get beyond an acre, with every increase of extent the argu-
ment in favour of seeds increases in force, for the cutting and cart-
ing of turf is a somewhat costly business. In selecting turf for a
garden, give the preference to that which is of close texture, contain-
ing a fair sprinkling of clover intermixed with the finer grasses.
We have formed many lawns from meadow turf, which in the first
instance appeared far too coarse, and they have in the course of
three years' acquired a beautiful texture fit for the foot of a princess
in a fairy tale. Grass turf may be laid at any time during favour-
able weather, but the autumn is to be preferred, because of the long
season of growth the newly-laid turf will have to aid in its establish-
ment before being tried by the summer sun. If laid in the spring,
grass usually passes through the first summer safely, but is of
necessity exposed to the risk of being roasted ; in the event of a hot,
dry summer the risk is greater in the case of turf laid late, than than
of turf laid early. When the work is deferred until the season of
spring showers is past, it will be advisable to spread over the turf a
coat of good manure, and keep it regularly and liberally watered
until showers occur.

In selecting seeds, the character of the soil must be taken into
consideration, for a mixture that would suit a clay or loam would
not equally well suit a gravel or chalk soil. The seedsmen who
make a " speciality " of grass seeds will for any given case supply a
better mixture than anyone unskilled in the matter could obtain,
even if acting on the advice of a botanist or gardener. As, however,
prescriptions are occasionally required by seedsmen who have not
had extensive experience, we shall append to this chapter a few for

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 333

mixtures adapted to particular kinds of soil. The best time in the
year to sow seeds is the month ol* August. If the work cannot then
be completed, the sowing may be continued through September and
October, but not later ; but may be resumed in February and
March. Grass seeds may be sown indeed on auy day in the year,
provided the weather is favourable to the operation, and the ground
in a fit state ; but the month of August is the best time to insure a
good plant before winter, and a long period of growth before the
summer heat returns.

There is yet a third mode of forming a lawn, now rarely prac-
tised, but in days when grass seeds were comparatively unknown,
frequently resorted to. It is termed " inoculating " and consists in
planting pieces of grass turf at regular distances over the plot.
In districts where good turf is obtainable only in small quanti-
ties, this method may be recommended, for if the turves are torn
into small pieces and planted at a foot apart in September or
February, they will extend rapidly, and form a pretty good sward
the first season.

In the after management, the principal operations consist of
rolling, mowing, and weeding. Grass seeds must be constantly
weeded, until the turf thickens sufficiently to kill out the weeds, and
newly-laid turf must be kept clean of thistles, docks, and other rank
weeds, by spudding them out, or by a simpler process which we
have long practised with the most agreeable results, that of deposit-
ing in the heart of the plant a small quantity of phospho-guano,
which kills it at once, and promotes the growth of clover in its
stead. If this operation is carelessly performed, and the guano
thrown about wastefully, the immediate result is a dotting of the
lawn with unsightly brown patches, which however, soon disappear
after the occurrence of rainy weather.

Many as are the kinds of mowing machines, they may all be classed
under two heads — those that cut and carry, and those that cut and
scatter. A carrying-machine may be made to scatter by removing
the box, but not so well as the machine that is intended for scatter-
ing, as in each case the cutter is formed expressly for the work it is
intended to perform. If the question be asked, which is the best
form of machine, our reply is that they are of equal value, and the
intending purchaser must be guided by a consideration of circum-
stances. In the excessively hot and dry summers of 1868 and 1870
we constantly employed the "Archimedean," which scatters the
grass, and our lawns were as green through all the burning drought
as in the cooler days of spring. In the moist summer of 1871, it
would have been necessary to sweep up the grass, had the scattering
machine been employed on our strong land, and therefore we kept
our trusty " Shanks " at work, cutting and carrying, and had to
mow twice a week through the whole of June and July, to keep the
grass down. Nevertheless, in that same moist summer, we saw the
"Archimedean " employed on a tract of chalk land, which is pecu-
liarly exposed to the influence of the sun, and the result was a fresh
green turf, where in the height of summer nothing better than a
dusty door mat had ever been seen before. When the grass is

334 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

cut by cutters adapted for the scattering system, it falls on the
ground in a form more resembling dust than fibres, and acts as a
" mulch " both to nourish the growth and arrest evaporation from
the soil; hence the importance of the scattering system on chalk and
sand, and other hungry stuff, and on any soil in such a hot season
as 1870.

In the keeping of an old lawn it is of the utmost importance to
remember that grasses and clovers require for their well-doing a
highly nourishing soil. Now it matters not how good the soil may
be in the first instance, if we cut and carry we labour constantly to
impoverish the soil. In every barrowful of grass removed there
will be a certain quantity of alkalies, phosphates, and other consti-
tuents of vegetation abstracted from the soil. To be always taking
off and putting nothing'on must result in the starvation of the grass ;
and we shall find that as the grasses and clovers disappear through
the exhaustion of the soil, daisies, plantains, knotgrass, self-heal,
and other weeds, take their place. The simple remedy for this state
of things is manuring, and the best mode of manuring is to scatter
over the turf a succession of thin dressings of guano and fine mould
mixed together. This should be done in autumn and spring, at
times when there is not much traffic on the grass, and there is a
likelihood of rain to follow. If appearances are of no consequence in
the later autumn or early spring months, a good coat of half-rotten
manure may be spread over the turf, but this proceeding cannot be
recommended for general adoption. In place of guano, nitrate of
soda or nitrate of potash may be employed, being first mixed with
fine earth or sand, and then scattered at the rate of one pound of
nitrate to every square yard. The employment of an alkali will
promote the growth of grass, but not of clover, which requires the
aid of phosphates. A cheap and most serviceable dressing for old
lawns may be occasionally obtained in districts where building works
are in progress. The rubbish should be screened, to separate from
it the dust of old mortar, plaster, and broken brick to the size of
walnuts at the utmost. This may be spread thinly two or three
times in autumn and spring, and will greatly benefit the texture
and density of the turf. It cannot be said that in British gardens
grass is generally well managed and properly understood, for the
lawn is the last place on which either manure or water is generously
bestowed. "We may ofttimes see the flower-beds deluged with
water that they do not need, while the grass is fast parching into a
hideous condition of sterility. If we could persuade the industrious
folks to spread the water, by means of a hose, over the grass
two or three times a week during summer, and give the geraniums
none at all, the result would be a brighter blaze of flowers
in a rich setting of delightfully fresh verdure, instead of, per-
haps, geraniums growing like cabbages and scarcely flowering at
all, and the grass becoming as thin and black as if a flame had
passed over it. Two contingencies are to be especially guarded
against in the management of grass turf — the machine must be
set so as to cut fair, and it must be kept in the best order
by constant cleaning and oiling. If set so as to cut very close, it

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 335

will occasionally pare off the surface soil, and with it the roots of
the grasses ; many a good lawn has been ruined by the foolish practice
of making the machine cut as close as possible, under the absurd im-
pression that one cut is better than two. The more cuts the better,
provided always that the machine is properly set and in the best
working order. Another mode of making a present effect at the
expense of the lawn consists in continually cutting afresh edge with
the edging iron. A gardener who cuts into the turf on the edge of
the lawn to make a finish ought to be compelled to eat all that he
removes. If the practice is persisted in, the grass is reduced in
breadth, and the walk is widened, and in time there is formed a deep
gutter and a sharp ugly ridge. If properly finished at the edge with
the shears, the width of walk will not vary an inch in fifty years.
One of the first things we look after in the work of a new man is
his management of the edges of lawns, and we are always careful to
explain our views upon the subject in good time to prevent a mis-
chief which cannot be easily remedied. The man who persists after
warning and explanation in chop, chop, chopping at the edge, as if it
were necessary to construct a gutter of mud on each side of a walk,
deserves to hear an opinion of his procedure that will make him
tingle from head to foot with shame. The jobbing gardener is a
master of this chop-down-gutter-forming business, and will always
be ready to advise the employment of gravel to fill up the trench
that should never have been made.

It may be well, perhaps, to add a word upon the employment of
spergula for lawns. A spergula lawn in good condition is one of the
loveliest embellishments of a garden that can be conceived. "We
have seen many so-called spergula lawns, but only three that were
good enough for agreeable remembrance. The whole truth of the
matter may be summed up in a sentence : A spergula lawn demands
constant attention and is of necessity a troublesome thing to form in
the first instance and to manage afterwards. Therefore for what
may be termed " general usefulness " we cannot recommend the
employment of spergula. However, any of our readers who are
inclined to indulge in this unwonted luxury need not be deterred
through supposing there is any mystery at the bottom of success •
it is a question of time and attention, and whenever these are with-
held the spergula lawn will go to ruin. Prepare the ground well
and plant the tufts in September and October, or in March and April.
Frequently roll the ground and never cease to pull out weeds for
these are the chief enemies of spergula. One season's neglect of
weeding will ruin a spergula lawn, and one week's neglect at a time
of year when weeds grow freely will result in considerable damage.
As for worms, which also injure spergula turf by their casts the
roller will sufficiently repair the damage they do, but if any nostrum
is required to reduce their number there can be nothing better than
clear lime-water, for while thi3 kills the worms, it benefits the
spergula.

As the formation of a spergula lawn requires much patient atten-
tion, it may be recommended as a pastime to those who are of a
temperament suited to the task and can afford the time that must

336 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

be devoted to it for a satisfactory result. Our advice to a beginner,
tired with enthusiasm on the subject, would be to select a compara-
tively small piece of ground in the first instance, in order to obtain
a perfect sample of spergula turf in the shortest possible time, and
acquire thereby the experience needful for a greater effort. For
those who practise " rough-and-ready gardening " spergula is of no
use at all, except as a rock plant or to cover a knoll on which a tree
is planted, and for such other odd purposes, where a close turf
capable of enduring the wear and tear of turf constantly trodden on
is not required.

For all good loamy garden soils, the best grasses to form a
close, fine sward are the following : — Cynosurus cristatus, the crested
dog's-tail ; Festuca ovina, the sheep's fescue ; F. tenuifolia, the fine-
leaved fescue ; Lolium perenne tenue, perennial rye grass ; Poa
pratensis, smooth-stalked meadow grass ; Poa sempervirens, ever-
green meadow grass ; Poa nemoralis, woodside meadow grass ; Tri-
folium repens perenne, perennial white clover ; Trifolium minus,
yellow suckling. Sow the mixture at the rate of 3 bushels (60 lbs.)
to the English acre, or 1 gallon (2| lbs.) to 6 rods or perches.

For a stiff soil resting on clay, a good mixture would consist
of Lolium perenne, perennial rye grass ; Poa pratensis, smooth-stalked
meadow grass ; Poa trivialis, rough-stalked meadow grass ; Lolium
perenne tenue, fine rye grass ; Festuca duriuscula, hard fescue; Tri-
folium repens, white clover; Trifolium minus, yellow suckling.

For a light sandy soil the mixture should consist of, or at least
comprise, Lolium perenne tenue, Poa pratensis, Festuca duriuscula,
Avena flavescens, the yellowish oat grass ; Trifolium repens, Lotus
corniculatus, the bircl's-foot ; Achillea millefolia, the common yarrow.

For a thin soil besting on chalk or limestone, the selection
should comprise Lolium perenne tenue, Festuca duriuscula, F. ovina,
Poa trivialis, Cynosurus cristatus, Medicago hipulina, the yellow
medick ; Trifolium repens, T. minus, Lotus corniculatus.

For a collective prescription we cannot do better than adopt that
recommended by Messrs. Lawson and Son, the eminent seedsmen of
London and Edinburgh. The several quantities of the several sorts
named constitute a mixture for one English acre.

Light Soil. Medium Soil. Heavy Soil,

lbs. lbs. lbs.
Avena flavescens ... ... 1 0 0

Cynosurus cristatus ... ... 5 6 7

Festuca duriuscula ... ... 3 • 3 4

Festuca tenuifolia ... ... 2 2 1

Lolium perenne tenue ... ... 20 20 20

Poanemoralis ... ... 1^ 1-j- 2

Poa nemoralis sempervirens ... li If 2

Poa trivialis ... ••• . ... 1^ lj

Trifolium repens ... ... 7 7 7

Trifolium minus ... ... 2 2 1

Under trees a little variation of the mixture must be adopted.
Leave out the two species of Fescus, and substitute similar quantities

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

337

of Poa nemoralis. Indeed, P. nemoralis angustifollum is the best of
all grasses to produce a beautiful sward under trees, its growth
being so close that it displaces weeds, and it is green in spring
earlier than most other grasses ; and! as it also does well in exposed
places, it may be made " a note of," for any one, at this season, in a
state of distress at the shabbiness of a lawn. Another most useful
lawn grass is Lulium perenne tenue, but as it is twin brother of that
very worst of lawn grasses, Lolium perenne, or common rye grass,
care must be taken to obtain the right sort. It thrives on almost
any soil that is not wet, and is delightfully fresh all the winter.

S. H.

THE LADY'S SLIPPER.

BY THOMAS NOTT,
Head Gardener, Foelardt House, Lee, Kent.

N common with many other readers of the Floral
World, I was very much interested in the paper on
Orchids, at page 161, contributed by Mr. Gordon,
because of its practical and useful character, and I am
desirous of supplementing that paper with a few remarks

on the old but useful Ci/pri-

pedium insigne, or Lady's

Slipper. It is not perhaps

so showy as a few other

members of the genus, but it

is remarkably beautiful, and

can be grown in a green-
house most successfully with

the least possible amount

of attention and skill. It

is, however, very accommo-
dating, for it will be equally

at home in the stove ; indeed,

until within the last few years

it was grown exclusively in

the stove, and even now

many people who grow it

are unaware that its consti-
tution is sufficiently hardy to

bear the exposure to the

temperature of the ordinary

greenhouse during the winter

months without injury. The

figures of the plant and flower

which accompany these remarks will convey a fair idea of its

general character, and it only remains to be said that the prevail. u <■

VOL. VI. — NO. XI. 22

CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE.

338

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

colours of the flowers are brown, green, and white, and that it pro-
duces its singularly-shaped blooms during the winter months, when
flowers are, as the readers of this are well aware, comparatively
scarce. When in flower it may be employed in the decoration of
indoor apartments most advantageousle, as the flowers remain fresh
and bright for a considerable period if care is taken to screen the
plants from cold draughts, and to protect from frost. I am inclined
to think that it may be grown entirely in the drawing-room window,
but I have not had an opportunity for conclusively settling that
point,

CTPRIPEDIUM INSIGNB.

It would, perhaps, be a more difficult task to kill it than to grow
it well, but certainly it can be grown to the highest perfection with
the most simple means. The pots should be filled about half full
with large pieces of crocks ; over these should be placed a layer of
tufts of fibrous loam, to keep the compost — which should consist of
equal parts mellow turfy loam and small crocks, and a sprinkling of
nodules of charcoal — ;n its place. In repotting specimens, whether
large or small, loosen the roots carefully round the outside of the
ball ; remove a portion of the old worn-out soil, and put sufficient
compost on the crocks employed for drainage, to elevate the base ot
the plants two or three inches above the rim. The soil should be

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 339

packed moderately firm between the old ball and the sides of the
pot, and a layer should also be packed carefully over the surface to
give a finish to the work. Some growers employ peat, or peat and
sphagnum moss mixed; butlprefer the compost advised above, because
loam is more easily obtained in most localities than either peat or
moss, and the plants thrive in it quite as well, even if they do not
better.

Moderate supplies of water are necessary during the growing
season, and when the flowers are pushing up ; but during the winter,
when the plants are at rest, the soil must be kept rather dry ; but at
no time must it be allowed to become dust dry. Free exposure to
the light and air is essential during the summer season, and during
the winter they should be fully exposed to the light, but be protected
from currents of air passing through the house. It may possibly be
of interest to many to know that nice little plants can be purchased
at many nurseries for a few shillings.

LITEEAET NOTICES.

|INCE our last notices a number of interesting books
have accumulated on our table, which we shall dispose
of briefly, but with a view to indicate our estimation
of them in the interests of our readers. Messrs.
Warne and Co. present " Hardy Garden Flowers," by
Mr. William Robinson, and our thanks are due to both author and
publisher for an invaluable contribution to garden literature in a
most convenient and elegant form. Very few, indeed, amongst
writers on gardening are so well fitted to produce a book on hardy
flowers as Mr. Robinson, and we feel that he has done justice to
himself in the preparation of this compact volume. It comprises g
series of essays on the claims and uses of hardy plants, and tha
disposal of them in the parterre, the border, the rockery, etc., etce
and an alphabetical arrangement of all the genera that are entitled
to rank as ornamental plants, with short but clear descriptions of the
most attractive species. It is at once a treatise and a dictionary,
and so densely packed with information, that it may be regarded as
a model of a multum in parvo. Mr. Goodwin sends " The Plain
Path to Good Gardening," by Mr. Samuel Wood, into which we
have dipped and have been gratified by the author's store of horti-
cultural knowledge and happy capability of advising his readers for
their benefit. The several chapters range through all the depart-
ments of what may be termed a middle class garden, from the potato
ground to the orchard, and thence through the flower garden. We
may employ the hacknied phrase " plain and practical " in reference
to its contents with propriety, and it is but just to add that it is also
original and suggestive. Should another edition be called for, the
author would do well to add an alphabetical index. Messrs. Black-
wood present a seventh edition of Mr. William Thomson's " Treatise

340 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

on the Grape Vine," to which the author has added a chapter on his
new method of preparing vines for planting out — a method he has
practised with singular success in his new nursery, wherein vines
and pines are grown extensively. Messrs. Low and Marston present
" My Summer in a Garden," by Mr. Charles Dudley Warner, a
curious example of the mosb refined form of American wit and
humour, and one of the cheerfullest books we have read for many
a day. It is quiet, almost sedate, and characterized by a gentle-
manly elegance. But its undercurrent of sarcasm, its quaint
ebullitions of fun, its serious propounding of original things, and its
scintillations of pure humour, will insure it everywhere a joyful
reception, and all who read the first page will be pleasantly spell-
bound to the last. Messrs. Groombridge and Sons send a set of
" Cuthill's Garden Manuals," and " Market Gardening," the fame
of which has gone abroad long since, and established them as
standard books of their class. Mr. Cuthill was a successful prac-
titioner, and bad a happy knack of writing small books in which, as
one might say, " at a stroke," he initiates his readev into the art of
productive gardening with the least imaginable fear of being mis-
understood. Those who look for profit from a garden may find it
the quicker for taking counsel of Mr. Cuthill. From the same
publishers we are favoured wi^h two little books by Mr. Piper, one
on " The Management of Poultry," the other on " The Management
of Pigeons." They are admirable so far as they go, and they go far
enough for the thousands who keep poultry and pigeons for recrea-
tion chiefly, but not without the hope of obtaining from their pets
some more substantial rewards for the care bestowed upon them.
Mr. Piper has the advantage of a thorough practical acquaintance
with his subjects, and the rare tact of keeping to himself things that
few need to know, in order to do justice to those matters which have
universal interest. We advise those who are at all interested in
poultry and pigeons to make acquaintance at once with these pretty
brochures, either of which may be read in an hour, and will then be
read again, and frequently referred to for the advantage of their
wise counsels. "The Amateur's Flower Garden," by Shirley Hibberd,
can only be announced as ready for those who want it. If the
appreciation of the public is at all commensurate with the care the
author has taken to adapt his teachings to the range of amateur
practice, the book will be in demand for many a year to come; but
on that point, and on every point of its merits and demerits (if it has
either), other pens may deal as it may please them ; it is enough that
we inform our readers that we have sought in this work to fill an
evident gap in the eclectic garden library. Messrs. Groombridge's
" Coloured Prints " are showy and good, in many instances remark-
ably good, and they comprise a capital series of subjects, flowers,
birds, figures, insects, shells, scenes, and museum curiosities. Those
who roake up scrap books and screens, and embellish school-rooms
ar>& hospital wards, would do well to become acquainted with them,
for they are cheap enough and good enough for any purpose for
w hich pictures of small size may be required.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 341

BEDDING SUCCULENTS.

BY WILLIAM COLE,

Head Gardener, Ealing Park, Middlesex.

VERY considerable number of succulent plants may be
employed in the embellishment of the flower garden
during the summer months, but it is only of the most
useful kinds such as Echeveria secunda glanca, Semper-
vivum C 'ali fomic um, and Sedum glaucum, that I purpose
speaking. The value of those best adapted, from the character of
their growth, for bedding purposes, is now too well known to
require a word being said in their praise, and all that it is necessary
to do now is to point out the purposes for which they are best
adapted, and the quickest mode of raiding a stock. We will com-
mence with the Echeveria. The beautiful E. secunda glauca is, as the
majority of readers of this are well aware, one of if not the best
plant for edging purposes we have. It is not only effective in
appearance, but it is so neat in growth that from the time it is
planted in the early part of the summer until the autumn, it requires
no attention whatever, which, to both large and small growers, is a
matter of considerable importance. The green-leaved E. secunda
is also very valuable for many purposes, although not so generally
useful as its glaucous-leaved variety. It forms a nice marginal line
to beds edged with light terra cotta tiles, and it may also be frequently
employed with advantage in forming divisional lines in panel beds.
The pretty E.pumila has glaucous foliage, and is useful for marginal
lines to small beds. It forms a very considerable number of offsets,
which somewhat mar the symmetry of the plant, and for that reason
is not so desirable as E. secunda glauca. The noble E. glauca metallica
is a most decided acquisition to the list of bedding succulents. In
growth it somewhat resembles E. metallica, but it is more compact
and has glaucous foliage. For edging large beds, or for divisional
lines in panel beds, it is most valuable, and it would be difficult to
over-praise it. E. metallica is best adapted for planting in the
centre of medium-sized beds, or in small beds by itself. It has a
very striking appearance when planted, at moderate distances apart,
in a bed carpeted with some dwarf-growing succulent, such as Sedum
glaucum. Last summer we planted some very large and well-de-
veloped specimens, at a distance of about two feet apart, in a bed
filled with Pyrethrum Golden Feather, and the effect was remarkably
striking. Medium-sized plants are also useful for first and second
rows in beds planted with tall-growing subjects.

The simplest way of increasing the stock of E. secunda, and
others of a similar habit of growth, is by means of offsets, taken
oft' just before or when the plants are removed from their summer
quarters. It is essential to slip them off carefully to prevent injury
to the parent stem. It is a matter of little consequence whether
they are put in singly in small pots, or whether they are planted
rather close together in shallow boxes. The boxes are preferable,

342 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

for one of a medium size will hold a large number of plants, and
several hundred can be wintered in a very small space. The distance
at which they must be put apart in the boxes must, of necessity, be
regulated by their size ; but as a rule a distance of two inches each
way will be ample. The soil used for filling the pots and boxes
should be rather light and sandy, and no more water should be
applied than is sufficient to keep it just moist, for it will be safer to
allow it to become dust dry than for it to be kept too wet. Towards
the end of February, they can be potted off singly, and a rather
richer compost employed.

As the two last-mentioned sorts do not produce offsets in the
same manner as the others, they must be propagated either by
means of leaf-cuttings or seed. The others may also be propagated
in the same way when it is considered desirable to raise a stock by
a quicker method than that afforded by the offsets. The leaves
produced on the flower-stems of E. metallica are the most desirable,
although the others strike freely. The autumn is the most suitable
season of the year for striking the leaves, as they are then firm and
matured, and are not so liable to damp off as when taken earlier in
the season in a partially developed state. They should be slipped
off carefully with the hand and then inserted rather close together
in cutting pots or pans filled with a light sandy compost. It is
essential in inserting them to make them firm, and if the leaves are
large and likely to become loosened in moving the cutting pot
about, thrust a small piece of stick through the leaf and into the
soil to keep it steady. The leaves of the smaller growers, such as
E. secunda glauca, if inserted moderately deep in the soil, will not
require the aid of pegs to hold them firm. The warmest end of a
light airy greenhouse is the most suitable place for the cutting pots ;
the cuttings will not strike so quickly as they would do in a warmer
temperature, but there will not, if the soil is not kept too moist, be
so much danger of their perishing. All decaying leaves should be
removed as soon as symptoms of decay are perceptible, to prevent
their injuring the others. They should be potted off singly as soon
as the young plants, which push from the base of the leaf, are well
above the surface.

Echeveria seed is very minute, and a considerable amount of care
is necessary in sowing it. The compost with which the seed pots
are filled should consist of mellow loam, with which a liberal quan-
tity of leaf-mould and silver sand has been mixed, and to be made
perfectly level on the surface. Sow the seed regularly and then
cover with a layer of moss, and over that put a sheet of glass. The
moss will materially aid in preventing the soil drying up quickly,
and when water is required it can be applied by sprinkling the moss
without displacing the seed. A sharp look-out must be kept for
the appearance of the young plants, and the moss must be removed
immediately they can be seen. The glass should be left on for a
week or so afterwards, and two or three days previous to its
removal it should be tilted on one side to gradually inure the young
plants to the air. They should be allowed to become strong before
they are pricked off, but of course they must not remain until they

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 343

injure each other. Seed sown in the spring and the seed pots placed
in a temperature of 70° will germinate in about three days, and the
plants ready to prick off in less than three weeks. They can then
be potted off when of a moderate size, or they can be planted out in
the flower garden from the boxes.

Sedtjms. — The best of the stonecrops for bedding are 8. An-
glicum, bright green : 8. glaucum, greyish white ; and 8. pulchellum,
green. These are all of dwarf spreading growth, hardy, and can be
increased by dividing the tufts.

Sehpeevivums. — The best of all for bedding is 8. Califomicum ;
it is of a very deep, rich tint of green, and the points of the leaves
are tipped with reddish brown. Full-grown plants form a charming
edging. S. montanum, bright green, is- very neat, and useful tor
edging small beds. S. umUlicus'mOT ckrysanthus, deep green, is also
useful, although less useful than either of the preceding.^ All the
above are propagated by means of the offsets, and are quite hardy.

Distinct from the above are 8. arboreum atropurpureum, deep
bronzy green ; 8. tortuosum, green ; 8. Donckelaari, deep green ;
all of which are useful for centres of beds, and require the protec-
tion of a greenhouse during the winter season. The variegated
variety of the Tree Houseleek, 8. arboreum variegatum, is remark-
ably distinct and beautiful, but as yet it has not had a full trial in
the flower garden.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOR NOVEMBER.

Flowee Gaeden. — The weather has been so mild and open
during the past month that the spring-flowering plants with which
beds were filled in the middle of the month, in accordance with the
advice given in our last number, are now nicely established, and
growing freely. There is yet time to plant a greater part of the
subjects named, if done quickly. Also plant Hyacinths and other
bulbs as soon as possible, for although moderately good flowers
may be had from bulbs planted at Christmas, they will be inferior
to those produced by bulbs of a corresponding quality planted two
or three months earlier. This is also a good season of the year
for taking up, dividing, and replanting Lilies of all kinds. They
are now beginning to make fresh roots, and will not feel the shift
so much as when disturbed in the spring. The soil should be trenched
up, and a liberal dressing of manure applied. Like all other plants,
these exhaust the soil of the elements required for their growth,
and unless renewed, it is impossible for them to make a vigorous
growth. Push on the planting of evergreen and deciduous trees
and shrubs as fast as possible, so as to get them in their places
before the rains cool the earth too much. When the weather
renders it necessary to take up the Dahlia tubers, cut the stem
down to within six or nine inches of the ground, and, after taking
them up carefully, place them in a cool dry place, where they will
be secure from frost. All tender or half-hardy plants must now be
got under cover, but admit a free circulation of air about them in

344 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

favourable weather. Take up and divide herbaceous plants, keep
them out of the ground as short a space of time as possible, and
take advantage of the opportunity for digging the ground up deeply,
and applying a dressing of manure, or fresh soil, or a mixture of
both. Frequently sweep and roll the lawns and paths to give them
a fresh and bright appearance, and carefully preserve the fallen
leaves for rotting down to leaf-mould.

Kitchen Garden. — Lift full-grown Lettuce and Endive, with
a good ball of soil, and place them rather close together in a cold
frame or orchard-house, where they will be secure from frost.
Dampness is the greatest enemy these subjects have to contend with
at this season, and provided they can be kept dry by any means, a
few degrees of frost will do them no harm. Look sharp after Cauli-
flower and Lettuce plants in frames, and remove every trace of
mildew and decay directly it makes its appearance. Give full admis-
sion to the air, but keep the foliage dry, and protect from frost.

Fruit Garden. — Fruit-trees growing too luxuriantly must be
root-pruned, and this is the best season of the whole year for per-
forming that operation. Trees that have been undisturbed for
many years past must be cautiously dealt with, and have only half
the roots pruned now, reserving the other for next season. More
recently planted trees may have the whole of the roots cut in at once.
Open out a trench at a distance of two or three feet from the stem,
according to the age of the tree, and after going deep enough to
reach all the horizontal roots, work the spade underneath the ball to
sever the tap-roots, which materially assist the production of grossr
badly-matured wood.

Greenhouse. — Guard against a damp stagnant atmosphere in
this structure. Water the plants carefully, and without throwing
much water upon the floor. When the atmosphere appears damp
and stagnant, light a fire in the morning of a fine day, and open the
ventilators at the same time, to enable the impure air to escape, and
admit a fresh supply to take its place. Remove all decayed leaves,
and train into shape Azaleas and other plants that need that atten-
tion. Keep Ericas, Epacris, and other plants of a like nature, at
the coolest end of the house, and such things as Chinese Primulas
and Cyclamens at the warmest end. The conservatory should now
be gay with Chrysanthemums. Maintain a dry atmosphere. Gold
and Silver Zonal and Show and Fancy Pelargoniums must be kept
in a temperature of about 40° or 45° near the glass, and sheltered
from cold currents of air.

Stove. — Reduce the temperature of this structure to an average
of 60°, with fire-heat alone, and a rise of five degrees with the aid
of sun-hpat. Keep the atmosphere much drier than hitherto, and
water early in the morning, to enable the dampness therefrom to
dry up before evening. Ferns must be carefully handled just now,
a thorough rest is nearly as essential to their well-being as it is to
flowering plants ; but whilst guarding against giving them too much
water, carefully avoid their suffering for the want of that element.
Orchids with fleshy pseudo-bulbs, like the Cattleyas, require just
sufficient to keep them fresh and plump, but the Vandas, and others

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 345

of like habit, will require rather more. Encourage winter-flowering
plants by placing them in the warmest corner of the house.

Forcing. — House strawberrv-plants, or if the room cannot be
spared indoors, form a stack out of doors, which can be easily accom-
plished by laying the pots on their sides in layers one above the
other. Prune Vines, Peaches, and Nectarines at once, thoroughly
wash every particle of wood with warm water and soft soap, and
then dress with Fowler's Insecticide or Gishurst's Compound. Pines
must be kept quiet, and the atmosphere of all departments rather
dry. The most suitable temperature for this and the next month is
60' for suckers and succession plants, and 70° for fruiting plants.
Winter Cucumbers must have a genial growing temperature, and
means should be adopted for covering the lights in very sharp
weather, to render less fire-heat necessary for maintaining the proper
temperature ; both as a matter of economy, and for the sake of the
health of the plants, maintain a steady temperature of about 50°, and
keep the beds in a moderately moist condition.

Pits and Frames. — Auriculas must have air night and day in
fine mild weather, and only have sufficient water to prevent the
foliage becoming flaccid. The foliage must not be wetted on any
consideration. Carnations, Pansies, and Picotees only require pro-
tecting from wet and frost, therefore the lights can be drawn off
entirely in fine weather, and tilted at the back in mild wet weather.
The stock of bedding plants must be frequently examined, and every
attention paid to keep them clean and healthy. Mildew commits
terrible havoc among the Verbenas at this season of the year, if
allowed to get ahead ; but if taken in time, and the foliage dusted
with sulphur, it is comparatively harmless. Bedding Geraniums of
all kinds need very little water just now, and if the leaves do flag a
little now and then, it is of no consequence. It is far better to let
them flag than to keep the soil too moist, or to give water in damp
or dull weather.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

[HE only horticultural exhibition of note held during the
month of October was the International Fruit Show
held at South Kensington on the 4th, which was one of
the largest exhibitions of fruit ever held in this country,
and the largest which has occurred since 1862. In a
few particulars it was not so satisfactory as it might have been, for,
with but few exceptions, unlimited collections alone were invited by
the schedule, and the residt w*as the exhibition of a considerable
bulk of fruit of second and third-rate quality. Some of the collec-
tions of apples and pears were exceedingly large, and consisted of
between two and three hundred dishes of reputed varieties. Some
of the collections of grapes were also very fine, and comprised
examples of all the best varieties in cultivation. Pines, peaches, and
miscellaneous fruits were not invited by the schedule, but several

346 THE FLORAL WOULD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

interesting exhibits were staged, including amongst others a collec-
tion of filberts and cob-nuts, from Mr. Richard "Webb, Calcot
Gardens, Reading, who devotes much time and attention to these
fruits ; fruit-bearing branches of raspberry, Belle de Fontenay, which
is undoubtedly the best of all the autumn varieties, from Mr.
Charles Turner, Slough ; a fine collection of peaches from Mr. Jack,
Battle Abbey Gardens ; three pines, all large in size and handsome
in appearance, from Mr. Miles, Wycombe Abbey ; and a superb
collection of miscellaneous fruits from Mr. Pragnall, Sherborne
Castle.

The gold medal offered for a collection of grapes was taken by
Messrs. Lane and Son, Great Berkhampstead, with one of the finest
collections ever exhibited. The bunches were large and well-
shouldered, and the berries in size, colour, and finish, left nothing to
be desired. The most conspicuous examples in the collection were
those of Trebbiano, Bowood Muscat, Buckhardt's Prince, Black
Prince, West's St. Peter's, Black Hamburgh, Frankenthal, Barba-
rossa, Muscat Hamburgh, Mill Hill Hamburgh, Lady Downes'
Seedling, Alicante, Muscat of Alexandria, Buckland Sweetwater,
Golden Champion, and Pope's Hamburgh, all of which are good in
their several seasons of attaining maturity, and the style of culture
to which they are best adapted. The largest bunch of grapes in the
exhibition was that of the Black Barbarossa, exhibited by Mr. Ban-
nerman, Blithsfield, and the best flavoured bunch was that of the
luscious Muscat of Alexandria, exhibited by Messrs. Lane.

The most complete collection of pears was exhibited by MM.
Baltet Freres, of Troves, Prance, who also bad the best collection of
dessert varieties ; and amongst others, exhibited examples of the
following dessert varieties : — Knight's Monarch, Thompson's Winter
Nelis, Passe Col mar, Beurre de Capiaumont, Louise Bonne of Jersey,
Beurre Diel, Williams's Bon Chretien, Calebasse, Beurre Easter,
Althorpe Crassane, Beurre Brown, Gansel's Winter Bergamot, Glou
Morceau, Ne Plus Meuris, Marie Louise, Duchesse d'Angouleme,
Jersey Gratioli, Beurre Clairgeau, Beurre d'Amanlis, Eyewood,
Fondante d'Automne, Hacon's incomparable, Suffolk Thorn, Seckle,
Colmar d'Aremberg, Alexander Lanibre, Huy she's Bergamot,
Bishop's Thumb, Priuce Albert, Flemish Beauty, Bergamot d'Espe-
ren, Napoleon, Swan's Egg, Due de Moray, Prince Imperial,
Souvenir de Leopold I., British Queen, Marechal Vaillant, General
Todleben, Van Mons, Crassane d' Hardenpont, Beurre Sterckmans,
Bon Chretien d'Espagne, Beurre Bruxelles, Beurre Bachelier, Bezi
Mai, Doyeune Goubalt, Doyenne du Cornice, General Laurent,
Helene Gregoire, Henri Gregoire, Louise de Prusse, Belle de Sep-
tembre, Colmar d'Ete, Madame Millet, Beurre Lamy, Jalousie de
Fontenay, Beurre Dubort, Conseiller de la Cour.

MM. Baltet Freres also exhibited a fine lot of apples in the
class for the most complete collection, but the gold medal was most
deservedly awarded to Mr. William Paul, of Waltham Cross, whose
collection, although not quite so large, comprised examples of the
finest quality of the leading sorts in cultivation in this country. In
the class for dessert varieties the first prize was awarded to Mr.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3 47

Chaffe, Carshalton ; and in the class for culinary varieties, the post
of honour was worthily occupied by Mr. G. Ford, Leonardslee.

The best of the dessert varieties staged were Court of Wick,
Early Nonpareil, Court Pendu Plat, Petwortli Nonpareil, Gravenstein,
Cox's Orange Pippin, Golden Harvey, Cornish Gilliflower, Lemon
Pippin, Sam Young, Blenheim Orange, Golden Drop, Golden
Pippin, J.VI argil, Duke of Devonshire, King of the Pippins,
Reinette Van Mons, Adams's Pearmain, Golden Harvey, Syke
House Russet, Remington's Seedling, Golden Russet, Sturmer
Pippin, and Boston Russet.

And of culinary apples the best were Reinette du Canada, Forge
Pippin, Cockpit, Keswick Codlin, Mere de Menage, Cox's Pomona,
Winter Greening, Gloria Mundi, Spanish Pippin, Flower of Kent,
Allman's Russet, Winter Pearmain, Nonesuch, Warner's King,
Hawthornden, Ashridge Pine-apple Pippin, White Devonshire, Nor-
folk Beefing, Brabant Bellefleur, French Crab, Newtown Pippin,
Emperor Alexander, Lord Suffield, Red Streak, Golden Noble, Wal-
tham Abbey, Lamb Abbey Pearmain, Herefordshire Pearmain, King
of the Pippins, Nelson's Codlin, Summer Scarlet Pearmain, Lord
Grosvenor, Kentish Fillbasket, Gravestein, Calville Blanche, and
Alfreston.

At the same meeting the Messrs. Yeitch and Sons exhibited fine
collections of Garden Beet and Endive. Amongst the former were
well-grown specimens of the undermentioned useful kinds, namely,
Dell's Crimson, Clayton's Red, Dewar's Dwarf Red, Pine-apple
Short-top, Cattell's Crimson, and Spanish Beet. The collection of
Endive comprises examples of Fraser's Broad-leaved and White
Batavian, Digswell Prize, Moss Curled, and White and Green
Curled, all of which are good useful sorts ; the first and third on the
list being especially valuable for winter use.

I have recently had an opportunity of seeing Cannell's new
boiler, or "hot-water circulator" at work in the nursery of the
inventor at Woolwich, and a more thoroughly efficient boiler cannot
be imagined ; for it is so constructed that the largest amount of heat
possible is extracted from the fire, aud as it is wholly confined
within the boiler or water spaces, all waste is prevented, and it may
be safely pronounced the most economical boiler made ; those who
are interested in the matter will do well to see it at work.

G. G.

Veronica incana. — J. B., Glamorganshire. — This useful edging plant is now
rather plentiful in the trade, but it may not be possible to procure it of all local
nurserymen. If you experience any difficulty in the matter, try Cannell, of the
Station Road Nursery, Woolwich, or Henderson's, of St. John's Wood. Seed is
not procurable, so far as we are aware, in the ordinary course of trade. We cannot
answer correspondents through the post.

Climbing Roses. — C. A. P. — Coupe de Hebe, Glory of Waltham, Prince
Leopold, Red Rover, and Climbing Dtvoniensis, are all suitable for covering the
arch. Princess Louise Victoria, now in course of distribution by Mr. Knight, of
Hailsham, Sussex, is also a fine climber, and suitable for the most select positions.
It is vigorous in growth, and produces its flowers in large clusters throughout the
season.

348

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

1ST FOH PURCHAS]

MTS. SEEDS. EfL

SELECT FRUITS FOR THE GARDEN AND
ORCHARD.

APPLES FOB ORCHARD PLANTING.

Alffeston, Bedfordshire Foundling.'Bess Pool,

p_ir;r Blenheim Orange, Court of Wick, Dumelow's

gS? Seedling, Devonshire Quanenden, Dutch Cod-

^" ling, Fearn's l'ippin, Forge, French Crab,

Golden Noble, Golden Reinette, Gooseberry

Pippin, Hawthornden, Hanwell Souring, Kerry

Pippin, London Pippin, Nonpareil, Norfolk

Bearer, Northern Greening, Pott's Seedling, Sturmer Pippin, Syke-

se Russet, Ward's Pippin, Winter Peat-main, Yorkshire Greening.

APPLES (DESSERT) FOR GROWING AS PYRAMIDS AND BUSHES.

Ashmead's Kernel, Beauty of Kent, Braddick's Nonpareil, Cellini, Cornish
Gdliflower, Cox's Orange Pippin, Court Penduplat, Early Harvest, Early Nonpareil,
Knight's Downton Pippin, Golden Harvey, Juneating, Hubbard's Pearmain, New-
town Pippin, Lord Burleigh, Lord Suffie'd, Nonsuch, Northern Spy, Reinette du
Canada, Ribston Pippin, Scarlet Nonpareil, Waterloo, Wyken Pippin.

APPLES FOR VERY EXPOSED SITUATIONS.

Carlisle Codling, K ; Devonshire Quarrenden, D ; Early Jnlien, D ; Franklin's
Golden Pippin; French Crab, K; Hawthornden, K; Kerry Pippin, D; Keswick
Codling, K; London Pippin, K: Manx Codling, K; Margil, D; Nonsuch, D;
Summer Strawberry, Dj Sykehouse Russet, D ; Tower of Glammis, Yorkshire
Greening, K.

CHERRIES FOB GAEDENS, BEST TWELVE.

Early Purple Gean, D; Belle d'Orl^ans, D ; Black Tartarian, D ; May Duke,
D ; Black Eagle ; Bigarreau Napoleon, D; Florence, D ; Coe's Late Carnation, D ;
Kentish, K ; iielle Magnifique, K ; Morello, K ; Frogmore Early Bigarreau, D.

CHEBBIES FOR ORCHARDS.

Early Prolific, Black Tartarian, May Duke, Elton, Buttner's Black, Kentish
Bigarreau, Mammoth, Late Duke, Tecumsch.

CURRANTS.

White— White Dutch. Red— La Fertile, Raby Castle, Red Dutch. Black—
Kentish Hero, Lee's Prolific.

FIGS FOR WALLS.

Black Genoa, Black Ischia, Brown Turkey, Marseilles, Castle Kennedy. For
Forcing —Black Ischia, Brown Ischia, Brown Turkey, White Ischia, White Mar-
seilles.

GOOSEBERRIES FOR DESSERT.

Red — Keen's Seedling, Red Globe, Rough Red, Turkey Red, Companion,
Yellow— Glorv of RatclifF, Rumbullion, Leader, Yellow Champagne. Green —
Green Gage, Green Gasco^e, Turn-out, Hebburn's Prolific. White — White Eagle,
Queen of Trumps, Bright Venus, Hedgehog, Whitesmith, White Champagne.

GRAPES FOR WALLS.

July Muscat, Muscat St. Laurent, Esperione, Miller's Burgundy, Pitmaston
Cluster, RovhI Muscadine, Black Hamburgh, Chafselas Mu^que. The last two
require dry borders and good pusitions, or they will not ripen their fruit.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 34,9

GRAFFS FOR COOL VINERIES.

Cliasselas Musque, Foster's White Seedling, Madeira Muscat, Golden Champion,
Black Hamburgh, Buckland Sweetwater.

GRAPES FOR HEATED VINERIES.

Muscat of Alexandria, Bowood Muscat, Canon Hall Muscat, Muscat Ham-
burgh.

GRAPES FOR A LATE VINERY.

Kempsey Alicante, Madresfield Court, Black Muscat, Black Lady Downes,
White Lady Downes, Mrs. Pince's Muscat.

NECTARINES FOR WALLS.

Balgowan, Early Newington, Elruge, Hardwicke, Oldernberg, Violette Hative,
Pitmaston Orange.

PEACHES FOR WALLS.

Bellegarde, Early York, Grosse Mignonne, Crawford's Early, Royal Charlotte,
Royal George, Noblesse, Barringion, Walburton Admirable, Salway.

PEARS, THIRTY FOR GROWING AS BUSHES AND PYRAMIDS.

Alex. Lambre, Bergamotte de Esperen, rJeurre" Clairgeau, Beurre d'Aremberg,
Beurre d'Amanlis, Beurre de Ranee, Eastern Beurre, Beurre G-oubalt, Bon Chre-
tien, Broom Park, British Queen, Conseiller de la Cour, Delices de Jodoigne,
Doyenne Boussoch, Doyenne Defnis, Doyenne d'Eie, Duchesse d'Angouleme,
Eyewood, Fondante d'Automne, Forelle Glou Morceau, Huysbe's Victoria, Jor-
gonelle, Louis^ Bonne of Jersey, Monarch, Prince Albert, Suffolk Thorn, Winter
Nelis, Yat, Zephirin, Gregoire.

PEARS, TWENTY FOUR, VERY CHOICE FOR A WALL.

Bergamotte d'Esperen, Bezi Mai, Beurre Diel, Beurre Bosc, Beurre Goubalt,
Brockworth Park, Chaumontel, Marie Louise, Knight's Monarch, Ne Plus Meuris,
Hacon's Incomparable, W. Thompson's, Graham's Autumn Nelis, Glou Morceau,
Jargonelle, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Easter Beurre, Doyenne d'Ete,
Bon Chretien, Louis Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Ranee, Alexandre Bivort, Pitmaston,
Duchesse d'Angouleme.

PLUMS FOR DESSERT.

July Green Gage (wall), Bonne Bouche, Denniston's Superb, Perdrigon Violet
Hatif, Green Gage (wall), Transparent (Jane, Jefferson, Coe's Golden Drop (wall),
Reine Claude de Bavay, Coe's Late Red, Blue Imperatrice (wall).

PLUMS FOR CULINARY PURPOSES.

Early Prolific, Early Orleans, Mitchelson's Victoria, Diamond, Washington,
Belle de Septembre.

RASPBERRIES.

Yelloio — Yellow Antwerp, Magnum Bonum, October Yellow. Red Fastolf

Beehive, Carter's Prolific, Red Antwerp, Maclaren's Prolines.

STRAWBERRIES, TWELVE BEST FOR SUCCESSION.

Amateur, Vicomtesse Hericai t de Thury, Dr. Hogg, Crimson Queen, Keen's
Seedling, Marguerite, President, Royalty, Frogmore Late Pine, Princess of Wales.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Rose Trees Dying.— In the early part of last summer I planted heliotropes on
the same border where standard rose trees grew, and every tree has died where the
heliotrope was close to the root of the rose. One tree appeared to be going the
same way as the rest, so I removed the heliotrope, and that tree is fast regaining
its former freshness. Can there really be anything in this, or is it a singular cir-
cumstance ? — J. Q. Sproston. [We cannot explain the cause of the rose trees
dying off in the manner mentioned 5 but we do not believe that the heliotropium
has killed them. It is certainly a most " singular circumstance." — Ed. F. W-]

850 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

Lilium Bed. — An Amateur. — The subject shall have attention in our next
number. Lilium auratum is perfectly hardy, but it should be planted rather d._ep.

Cyclamens. — J H., Ireland. — The young plants should be potted off singly at
once. Put them in three-inch pots, and use a compost consisting of turfy loam
three parts, leaf-mould one part, manure uecayed to a powder half a part, and
silver sand about a third of a part. When shifted into larger pots use a rather
smaller proportion of sand. After they are potted off place them in a genial growing
temperature of about 60° for a few weeks if available, otherwise place them in the
warmest part of the greenhouse.

Mandevillea suaveolens. — A. B. S., Torquay — The portion of the plant
exposed will very probably survive the winter without suffering material injury, if
the winter is not severe. It is worth a trial, unless you require the branches outside
for covering any portion of the wall space inside.

Prices of Pitcher Plants. — H. J. will be much obliged if the Editor of the
Floral Would will give him the prices of a few of the best Nepenthes, or Pitcher
Plants ; also what the price of a packet of seed would be. [The prices at which Ne-
penthes are offered by Messrs. Veitch and irions, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea, who
have the finest trade collection in this country, are as follows : N. distillatoria,
10s. 6d. ; N. Dominiana, 42s.; N. gracilis major, 10s. 6d. ; N. Hookeri, 105s. ;
N. hybrida maculata, 31s. 6d. ; K. Icevis, 5s.; N. Rafflesiana, 10s. 6d. ; N.
rubra 21s. • N. Sedeni, 21s. The last was figured in the Flokal World for
October 1870, and is the most beautiful of all the small growing kinds. All the
above are remarkably good ; Rafflesiana being the most showy, but it is a rather
strono- grower, and requires a considerable amount of space for its development, in
comparison with the others, but it can be grown in a house of a moderate size.
Seed cannot so far as we are aware, be obtained in the ordinary course of trade.

Names of Ferns. — 8- J., Clifton Park.— Athyrium filix-fcemina, var. corym-

biferum. A Nezv Subscriber, Prestwich. — N. 1. Scolopendrium vulgare ; 2,

Polypodium vulgare.

Climbing Roses.— Dorchester. — To produce an immediate effect, you should
plant eight roses and put them at an equal distance apart. As you prefer yellow
and dark flowers you cannot do better than to plant the following, all of which are
free-growing and free-flowering — Red Rover, Glory of Waltham, Prince Leopold,
Oloire de Ducher, Maalle. Annie Wood, Oloire de Dijon, Marechal Neil, and
Jane Hardy. There are several roses the names of which begin with " Souvenir."
The cause of the leaves falling prematurely is due to some local cause.

Sea Buckthorn. — Rev. T. B. T., Launceston — The Sea Buckthorn, Hippo-
phcea rhamnoides, is grown in all good nurseries, and could certainly be obtained by
applying to Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea.

Zonal Pelargoniums. — A. J. Wifmnt, Rose Cottage, Devon. — The flowers of
Zonal Pelargoniums are never fit for criticism after passing through the post ; and
-we never give an opinion upon them. It is impossible to form a just estimate of the
merits of a variety without seeing the growing plant.

Rats and Moles in Garden.— S. Y. W— Carbonate of baryta mixed with
oatmeal is the best poison for rats and mice. There is no remedy for moles but
trapping. To catch moles is a question of skill only.

Taunton Deane Show.— The ferns exhibited by Mr. Silver at the Taunton
Horticultural Exhibition, to which allusion was made in the September number,
were shown in the great class confined to exhibitors resident in the di-trict ; the
first prize in the open class being taken by Mr. Taylor, whose sumptuous specimens
will not soon be forgotten by those who had the opportunity of seeing them.

Fumigating Greenhouse.— Subscriber. — The tobacco smoke will cause the
flowers to fall much earlier than they otherwise would do, but if the house is fumi-
gated with care, it will not injure the leaves of the most delicate plants. The main
points in fumigating a greenhouse are to have the foliage of the plants perfectly dry,
and the fumigating material just moist enough to insure its burning steadily, but
not wet enough to generate steam instead of smoke. When the mat, rial is dry, it
hums too rapidly, and the smoke given off is so hot that it scorches the leaves.
When, on the other hand, it is too moist, steam is generated, and is ineffectual. It
is also' important to prevent a flame bursting out, for if allowed to bu.st out, and
continue for any length of time, every plant in the house will be more or less
injured. To prevent the material flaring it is necessary to stir it occasionally, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 351

when it becomes dry sprinkle it with water. The Begonia mentioned is now plen-
tiful, and we observe that it is entered in the catalogue of Mr. B. S. Williams,
Upper Holloway, at a low rate. It is also known as Begonia Martinzi ; hence the
difficulty you have experienced in procuring it of your regular nurssryman.

Bedding Plants. — Amateur.— The undermentioned are the best of the summer
bedders grown for their flowers, exclusive of geraniums and verbenas, of which you
say you have already a sufficiency. Ageratum Imperial Dwarf, light blue, nine
inches, effective in second rows; A. Mexicanum, lavender, in growth useful for
back rows ; A. Prince Alfred, light blue, fine habit, best adapted for second and
third rows. Calceolaria Gai?ies's Yellow, compact, yet vigorous in growth very-
free flowering; C. Golden Gem, deep golden yellow, habit vigorous and compact,
very rich and showy ; C. Broivn Prince, brownish buff, fine habit, and very free-
flowering. Dahlia Rising Sun, rich scarlet, very free-flowering, and most effective
for back rows ; D. Pluton, pure yellow, dwarf, compact, and free-flowering, second
and third rows; D. White Bedder, pure white, very dwarf and free- flowering,
valuable for second or third rows. Gazania splendens, orange yellow, dwarf and
spreading, best adapted for small beds. Heliotropium Etoile de Marseilles, deep
purplish blue, neat and compact, very free blooming ; H. Miss Nightingale, clear
purplish lilac, dwarf, compact, and free-flowering ; H. Jersey Beauty, deep purplish
blue, neatcompact habit, and very free flowering. LantanaJean Bart, yellow and
pink, dwarf and profuse blooming, useful for marginal lines ; L. Imperatrice
Eugenie, pink, yellow centre, extra dwarf, and therefore invaluable for edgings ;
L. Adolphe ffwas, canary yellow, very showy and distinct. Lobelia erinus Blue
Boy, clear bright blue, very dwarf, compact, and free-flowering; L. e. Indigo
Blue, very deep blue, very rich and effective for marginal or second lines • L. e.
Pearl, white, tinged with blue, very compact and free-flowering, and invaluable for
edging purposes ; L. pumila grandiflora, clear bright blue, very compact in habit
the Vst for divisional lines. Nierembergia gracilis, pale lilac, trailing habit
useful for small beds and edging purposes. Pansy SandbecJc Gem, deep golden
yellow, fine habit, and continuous flowering. Petunia Countess of Ellesmere, rose
pink, white throat, good habit and showy ; P, Spitfire, blackish purple, very showy
and effective, stands the weather well ; P. Single Beauty, rosy lavender, overlaid
with purple maroon lines, free habit, and very distinct. Salvia patens, deep blue
upright growth, effective in back rows or centres of beds. Tropaolum luteum Im-
proved, orange yellow, dense, compact, invaluable for edgings; T. Advancer, bril-
liant orange scarlet, habit dense and free, fine for edgings or small beds • T. Star
of Fire, orange scarlet, dwarf, compact, and free flowering-, most useful for small
beds. Veronica Blue Gem, light blue, very neat, dwarf and free-flowering, useful
for marginal lines or panel beds. Viola Perfection, bluish mauve, flowers con-
tinuously in suitable soils, and is very effective. V. lutea major, clear golden
yellow, blooms continuously, grand for beds or edgings. V. I. pallida, sulphur
yellow, pleasing and effective, either in beds or marginal lines. There is no dearth of
plants with ornamental leafage which are useful for summer bedding. The fol-
lowing selection comprises the best at present in cultivation, suitable for panel and
embroidered beds, and for carpeting the surface of beds filled with the tall-growing
subtropical plants : — Alyssum variegatum, creamy variegation, compact and useful.
Alternanthera amcena, blight carmine, brilliant in colour, but slow in °rowth. A.
amabilis, orange and carmine, rich and effective ; A. magnifica, rosy carmine,
free in growth, and very rich ; A. paronychioiodes, bronzy red and orange, free and
effective, Amaranthus melancholicus ruber, sanguineous red, best adapted for
centres or back rows. Antennaria tomentosum, silvery foliage, dwarf and spreading.
Artemisia stelleriana, silvery foliage, strong in growth, and suitable for centres of
large beds.' Coleus aurea marginal a, bronzy crimson, yellow margin second rows
or centres of beds ; C. Emperor Napoleon, deep chocolate crimson, centres of large
beds ; C. Verschajfelti, chocolate crimson, second rows or centres of beds. Davtylis
glomerata elegantissima, strong growth, centres of large beds. Fuchsia Golden
Treasure, golden yellow, best for medium-sized beds. Gnapkalium lanatum, silvery
foliage, strong gi owing, suitable for large beds only. Iresine acuminata, deep
bronzy red, spreading, suitable for large beds only ; I. Lindeni, sanguineous red
upright in growth, grand for second rows or centres. Klenia repens, bluish green
fleshy leaves-, useful in small beds. Lysimachia nummularia aurea, golden yellow
trailing, adapted for small beds only. Mesembryanthemum cordifolium, creamy
yellow variegation, compact and trailing, first rate. Oxvlis corniculata rubra,

352 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

velvety brown, dwarf, spreading, and free growing. Perilla Nankinemis, bronzy
black; vigorous in growth, suitable for large beds only. Saxifraga densa, deep
green, compact and spreading ; &. hypnoid.es, rich green, very useful for small
beds ; S. pedata, deep green, free-growing, yet compact. Sedum anglicum, green,
dense, compact and free-growing, useful for small beds ; S. corsicum, light green,
spreading, quick in growth ; 8. glaucmn, grey, spreading rapidly, invaluable for
small or medium-sized beds ; S. hispanicum, light glaucous green : free-growing
and effective. Thymus lanuginosus, green and yellow, very compact, and only suit-
able for very small beds ; T. citriodorus aurea, golden yellow, dwarf and spreading,
very effective ; T. citriodorus aureus niarginatus, leaves margined yeliow ; com-
pact, erect growth, useful. Trifolium repens aureum, greenish yellow, for carpeting
only. Vinca elegantissima, pale yellow, suitable for beds filled with subtropical
plants.

Name of Fern. — Lastrea filix-mas, Romford. — You are right in your con-
jectures with respect to the name of the fern of which a complete frond was
sent. The scrap is from a frond of one of the Aspleniums, probably A. vivi-
parum. The specimen is too small to permit of our speaking definitely. Several
species of Asplenium form young plants in the manner mentioned.

Amateur's Sanctum. — J. T. B. — If due care is taken to avoid throwing the
water about on the pathway, there will not be much possibility of the damp injuring
the indoor apartments, especially if all watering is done early in the day, and air
admitted to permit of the superfluous moisture drying up before the house is closed
for the night. The plants will require very little moisture during the winter months,
and they should not be watered when the weather is not sufficiently favourable to
permit of the ventilators being opened.

C. Hippersley. — The rose mentioned will most likely flower more satisfactorily
next season, if not pruned too hard. The magnolia should not be pruned unless
under exceptional circumstances.

Pruning Zonal Pelargoniums. — Amateur. — The plants taken up from the
beds and potted with a view to their being used in the flower-garden should not be
pruned. If the shoots are cut back now some will decay, and a few of the plants
may perish. Leave them their full length, and prune about the end of February,
and the plants will commence to make new growth at once. It is a serious mis-
take to prune zonal pelargoniums in the autumn which have done duty in the
flower-garden during the pievious summer.

Spergula. and the Carpet Chamomile. — An Old Subscriber. — Spergula
would certainly not grow on the floor of a bee shed, but with careful management
it might do very well on the banks alluded to. The grass may, however, be
wonderfully improved by dressing it with phospho-guano at the rate of one pound
to five square yards. The " Carpet Chamomile," Pyrethrum Tchihatchewi, which
is now procurable at most good nurseries at a moderate price, would probably grow
well in the bee shed, if supplied with water when necessary. It will flourish in dry
places where grass and many other plants would perish ; but of course it will not
live without some degree of moisture. It is of great value for planting under the
shade of trees on dry banks and other places where grass will not live, and the only
attention required to keep it in order is to remove the large daisy-like flowers
wbich make their appearance in the early part of the summer. It would soon form
a dense carpet of green on the two dry banks you speak of, but it is not desirable in
places where grass with prcper management succeeds.

j£ j£m River-sand is not useless for propagating bedding plants, but is not so

o-ood for propagating hard- wooded plants as silver-sand. For striking geraniums,
calceolarias verbenas, and other plants of this description, we would quite as soon
have it as the best of silver-sand.

Clematis. — A New Subscriber, Prestwich. — The plant mentioned is probably
growing in soil which has become impoveiished. To insure continuity of bloom
there must be continuous growth, and to maintain a vigorous giowth the soil must
be of a generous character. The rose mentioned may be grown in pots, but Mare-
chal Neil is far superior in every respect. The seedling peach-tree will bear fruit
without budding or grafting, but it will in a 1 protab.J.ty exhaust your patience
before it becomes fruitful, and then the chances are very small against the fruit being
fit to eat. If you have room for a peach-tree, grow a good variety like the Royal
George or Noblesse, and not waste it by occupying it with a seedling which will
be years before it beats fruit, and then in all probability prove worthless.

A Q U 1 1. E l! I A C L A N D U L 0 S A.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 353

HARDY COLUMBINES.

{With Coloured Plate of Aquilegia glandulosa.)

HIS magnificent herbaceous plant represents a group of
half-forgotten garden worthies, that we may search far
and wide for in the flower gardens of the present day,
"We were reminded of its existence during the past
summer by receiving from Messrs. G rigor and Co., of
the Nurseries, Forres, a glorious bunch of its flowers, from whicb a
drawing was made for the plate which accompanies this notice.
This plant is one of the hardiest of the tine family to which it
belongs, requiring nothing more than good border culture, with
plenty of room and full exposure to the sunshine. As we are always
anxious to direct attention to hardy plants of high decorative value,
it is needful in this notice to remark that there are several species of
Aquilegia in cultivation, that, for ordinary purposes of garden
decoration, are really worthless, and of course are not to be re-
commended, although they have a place in trade catalogues. But
having rejected the least desirable, there remain several that are
indispensable to the completeness of the herbaceous border, and
indeed are well adapted for large beds and clumps in conspicuous
positions, owing to their noble characters and showy colours when in
flower. The most beautiful columbiue perhaps is the rare and
delicate A. ccerulea, which grows about two feet high, and produces
a large number of its curiously formed and most elegantly coloured
flowers of pale violet blue passing into white. The species here
figured, A. glandulosa, is the most showy, the plant rising about
two feet high, with handsome ample leafage, and a profusion of
dashing blue and white flowers. The variety grown by Messrs.
Grrigor has a delicate shade of violet, which renders the flower
extremely pleasing when examined closely, though when seen at a
distauce the violet is not apparent, and a good head of flowers has
somewhat the appearance of a cloud of blue and white butterflies.
The commonest of the columbines is A. vulgaris, a British plant,
and a favourite of the cottage garden. This, however, in its com-
monest form, is not good enough for the select herbaceous border
although it must be confessed that, in its worst state, it is an ex-
ceedingly pretty plant. The double-flowering varieties, however
are truly fine, and a bed of them would be no bad ornament to a
garden, especially if asters were planted amongst the columbines to
afford flowers when the columbines were over. The last \i\ the
select list of border columbines is A. Skinneri, a good clump of
which has a showy appearance, the flowers being produced in plenty
in good shades of red and orange. For the rockery, A. alpina is a
rare gem, growing only a foot high, and producing a number of fine
purplish blue flowers.

It may not be wrong to enumerate those we consider unworthy
of a place in a first-class border. They are A. bicolor, A. caryophi/l-
loides, A. canadense, A. fragrans, A. Siberica, the single-flowerin^

VOL. VI. — MO. XII. 23

354- THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

A. vulgaris, and the variegated leaved variety of the last. Now that
we have touched on bad plants it may be well to refer to them
occasionally, especially to point out in lists of herbaceous plants
such as are unwortby the attention, and therefore the money, of
those who prefer flowers to weeds, and object to grow second-clats
plants until they have exhausted the lists of first-class kinds.

S. H.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS EOE LAWN CLUMPS.

HILE penning the foregoing notice of Messrs. Grigor's
columbine, it has occurred to me to suggest tbat a few
very distinct and handsome herbaceous plants are admi-
rably adapted for planting in clumps on the lawn, not as
bedding plants, but to afford grace of form as well as a
display of colour, and to make a change thereby from the customary
mode of procedure. And the suggestion may appear the more proper,
because of the inherent demerits of many of the methods adopted
for the enrichment of the lawn. A tasteful display of coniferous
trees is usually the best possible furniture for breaking the flatness,
and giving dignity to a fine breadth of grass ; but coniferous trees
do not thrive everywhere alike, they are not in favour with all
amateurs alike, and they are somewhat expensive if good sorts are
selected and properly planted. The " popular " style of enriching
the lawn consists in forming a number of small round beds ("pin-
cushion beds " they are called) and planting standard roses in them,
with bedding plants during the spring and summer. Having ex-
pressed my opinion on this style pretty freely, I shall not now
weary the reader by pronouncing an elaborate condemnation of pin-
cushion beds and standard roses. It is sufficient to say that standard
roses are hideously ugly during at least nine months out of the twelve,
and that they are usually so badly treated when in pincushion beds
that they never present large, handsome hfads to make amends for
their ugliness of contour. We shall probably never succeed in
" writing down " pincushion beds and standard roses, and, indeed,
feel rather inclined to conceal than to express our views on that sub-
ject, because of the evident pleasure tens of thousands of people
derive from standard roses that starve on grass plots within view of
all the windows. Let us enlarge the area of selection of subjects for
lawns by proposing that a lew first-class herbaceous plants should
be adopted. They must be peculiarly distinct and handsome, the
least wiediness of character will be fatal to them. They must be
such as will arrest attention, and justify by their beauty the im-
portant place assigned them. Strange to say, suital - ^ ants,
according to our view of the requirements of the case, are extu .
few in number. We have carelully looked through Ware's catalogue
of herbaceous plants and selected the following. When we com-
menced the search we expected to find full twice as many as in the
end we marked for the purpose.

Ayapanthus umbellatus, w hich is generally grown in pots, and

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 355

kept under glass all the winter, is quite hardy on our cold clay soil
at Stoke Newington, and we may, therefore, select it with safety as
one of the finest things discoverable for a lawn clump in any place
enjoying a climate as good as that of London. The severe winter
of 1870-71 did not hurt any of our agapanthuses that were planted
out, and we intend henceforth to employ these noble plants as headers,
leaving them out with tritomas and lilies to take their share of
winter discomforts.

Anemone vitifolia Honorine Jobert, which produces a number of
lovely white flowers resting on an ample vine-like leafage during the
late summer months. It is a grand plant for a clump, or to form a
front line to a clump of lilies.

Aquilegia glandulosa would make a telling clump, say about six
plants standing apart from everything else.

Anuidinaria falcata is already much employed as an isolated
adornment of the grass, and needs only to be mentioned.

Astilbe rivularis is a fine lawn plant for the neighbourhood of
water, and any part of the lawn not highly dressed.

Bocconia cordata and B. frutescens are extremely handsome when
in a thriving state, producing large spreading masses of the most
handsome leafage.

Gi/neriicm argenteum, the well-known " Pampas grass," is so
thoroughly appreciated and universally grown that it is sufficient
to name it in its proper place in the list.

Hydrangea hortensis and PL. japonica are both hardy and mag-
nificent plants. To do justice to them as lawn plants, the beds in
which they are planted should be deeply dug and enriched with an
abundance of fat manure, and during the summer copious and
frequent supplies of water should be given. It is scarcely a misuse
of terms to say they will take " any quantity" of water.

Lilium giganteum is quite hardy on the heavy damp soils of Stoke
Newington and Tottenham, and attains to perfect development
without any special preparation of the soil or protection in winter.
A nobler lawn plant cannot be found in the world. Liliums, gene-
rally speaking, are not so well adapted for clumps and beds as some
enthusiastic writers represent, owing to their tendency to die down
early in the season, and the comparatively brief duration of their
flowers.

Pceonia arborea and P. officinalis may be planted freely, and
there is an almost endless variety in both sectious. They are extra-
vagantly showy when in flower, but are scarcely first-class lawn
plants, because they become coarse and shabby soon after their
flowering is over. Probably P. officinalis tenuifolia, which has
finely-divided fennel-like leaves, would make an interesting and
beautiful lawn clump.

Polygonum cuspidatum is the perfection of a lawn plant, but it
has one very bad habit, that of travelling fast and far. We have
been compelled lately to move a magnificent plant from a lawn,
because of its persistency in sending up shoots far away from its
proper centre. To keep it in its place it would be well to form some
kind of wall around its roots. To give an idea of the sore of wall

356 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

required, we will suppose an old tub three feet across to be sawn
down to a depth of two feet, so as to provide a two feet depth of
wooden wall three feet in diameter. This would require to be well
pitched inside and out, and be placed wholly underground to enclose
the roots of the plant, which it would do effectually until its decay
enabled them to push through it.

Spiraea venusta and S. palmata are superb plants, requiring a
deep, damp, rich soil.

Statice latifolia will suit for a small clump raised above the level.
There should be half-a-dozen plants at least in the clump to produce
an effect.

Thalictrum aquilegieefolium is stately and handsome, though by
no means showy.

Tritoma uvaria, and all other tritomas, are first-rate lawn plants,
not only for their dashing flowers in the summer, but their hand-
some dark green leaves all winter, which the frost rarely injures.

Tupa feuillei is a stiff-growing plant, five feet high, producing
in summer grand spikes of scarlet flowers. It is probably too
coarse for a conspicuous position, but is so distinct and showy that
it needs an open spot of grass to display it effectually.

Veratrum nigrum is undoubtedly a fine thing for our purpose,
and to make a nice clump halt'-a-dozeu plants would be required.

Yucca gloriosa is well known for its solemn nobility. Y. recurva
is more elegant. Y. plicata is a pretty little thing that flowers
freely. The variegated Yuccas are sumptuous lawn plants, but
they are not quite hardy, and we are endeavouring to confine this
list to plants that may be left out all the winter. When Tuccas
are planted out, precautions must be taken to secure them against
the injurious effects of stagnant moisture. To accomplish this, it
is not alwavs necessary to raise them above the general level, though
they usually appear to better advantage when raised. A good loamy
soil with about a fourth part of broken bricks added will suit
them better than the poor sandy stuff they are usually planted in.

S. H.

CULTIVATION OF THE BOUGAINVILLEA IN POTS.

BY J. W. SILVER,

Head Gardener, The Laurels, Taunton.

|iHE cultivation of this magnificent stove plant has already
been described in these pages, and it may appear almost
unnecessary to again advert to it; but its adaptability for
exhibition, and its usefulness in establishments where
plants of large size are required for decoration pur-
poses, has induced me to make a few remarks relative to its manage-
ment in pots.

It is simply impossible to convey an adequate idea of the splen-
dour of the Bougainvillea when well grown and properly trained.
The principal condition necessary for the production of large well-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 357

flowered specimens in pots is to have the wood of the previous season
thoroughly matured ; and to insure this being done, keep the pots
plunged in a bottom-heat varying from 70° to 85°. This is of very great
importance during the growing season ; and indeed it is hardly pos-
sible to secure a well finished plant without the aid of bottom-heat.
In the absence of bottom-heat being provided with the aid of hot water,
tan or leaves may be substituted, as both will produce a nice warmth,
and probably be more congenial to the plants than that from the
hot-water pipes. It is important to remember that the greater the
body of tan or leaves, the more powerful and continuous will the
heat be. As soon as the heat from the tan or leaves is exhausted,
take out the bed to the depth of the pots, and renew it, by which
means a constant supply of heat maybeobtained throughout theseason.

The best of all the Bougainvilleas for exclusively growing in
pots is B. glabra. B. speciosa will do well, and flower freely in pots ;
but to grow it to perfection, it should be planted out in a bed of
soil, and trained to the roof, so as to enable its lovely breadths of
mauve-pink bracts to hang gracefully down. But as these remarks
are only intended to refer to pot-culture, I will not here advert to
their management when planter) out in borders. Allow me to recom-
mend glabra for summer, and if flowering specimens are required in
midwinter, or in early spring and summer, speciosa may be employed,
but it may be well to mention here that in purchasing the last men-
tioned variety, it is necessary to apply to a firm that may be de-
pended upon — Messrs. Veitch and Sons for instance — as it not un-
frequently happens that spectabilis — -a very shy blooming species —
is substituted for it.

Many young beginners fail to produce good specimens, through
growing in a position where they have an insufficiency of light.
Shade is the cause of thin, immature wood, from which it is impos-
sible to obtain flowers in any quantity. Therefore, for this reason,
the plants during the growing season must have full exposure to
both light and sun, and only be shaded to preserve the flowers.
Even this is injurious if carried to any extreme, as it materially
assists in the deterioration of the flowers. Liquid manure may be
administered copiously during the season of active growth, but as
the flowers commence to expand, it must be sparingly given, and
eventually withheld altogether. Frequent shifts are not by any
means necessary, although the plants under consideration are gross
feeders. The plan I invariably adopt, with very successful results is,
after the plants attain specimen size, to give an annual shift only
into as large a sized pot as convenient. I find this, with the assist-
ance of liquid manure, quite sufficient to produce large, well-flowered
plants. As an example of this, allow me to mention that a plant of
glabra here, trained on a balloon-shaped trellis, that has received
this treatment, has presented the appearance of a globe of lovely
mauve bracts since the first week in June, and is now, November 11,
covered with them.

A thorough season of rest is most important, and from October
until March no more water should be given than is necessary to keep
the soil from becoming dust dry.

358

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

In pruning glabra the wood of the previous season should be cut
back to two eyes, and the young shoots thinned out to one to each
spur. This operation should be performed when the plants are
quite at rest, which, as a rule, occurs early in January. This is also
the best time to repot, as the cultivator has more spare time, gene-
rally speaking, at that season thau, perhaps, at any other ; therefore
everything that refers to pruning and training should be done when
the time can be afforded for doing it properly. The trellis to my
mind most suitable for training the Bougainvillea is one either in
the shape of a barrel or balloon. Both these display the lovely
colour of the flowers to great advantage, as well as to permit of the
growth being trained more easily. The compost I have found best
suited to their requirements is prepared by well incorporating toge-
ther two parts good turfy loam, and one part each of fibry peat and
leaf-mould, with a proportionate quantity of silver-sand. A few
nodules of charcoal may also be added to this compost.

The pots into which the plants are intended to be put should be
perfectly clean and well drained. A few pieces of charcoal may also
be advantageously mixed with the drainage.

inventions,

SENDEE'S PORTABLE PLANT PEOTECTOES.

T the exhibition of the Eoyal Horticultural Society, held
at Nottingham last July, Mr. W. E. Eendle, the
inventor of the " Portable Plant Protectors," figured
in the Floral World for January, 1S70, exhibited
several new and improved forms of these invaluable
to which we have for some time past been anxious to
direct attention. The principles upon
which these Protectors are con-
structed were briefly described in
the communication referred to, and
beyond saying that they have, in
their usefulness for protective pur-
poses, more than justified all that we
said in their praise when introducing
them to the notice of our readers, we
need not further allude to the old
form. The old forms are retained,
but very material improvements have
been effected in the details of con-
struction, and by the introduction of a
movable coping as here shown (Fig. 1),
increased facilities are provided for the removal of the glass, and
the invention is now as perfect as it possibly can be. The span roof
protectors now come almost within the category of houses, for they
can be had of any width, ranging from three to eight feet wide.
Fig. 2 represents one of the last-mentioned width, with galvanized
middle grooves to hold the glass ; but those not exceeding four feet
in width do not require the grooves, as one sheet of glass on each

Fig. 1. — Grooved Brick for
.Apex Roof.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

359

side is sufficient. Fig. 3 illustrates a valuable invention for the pro-
tection of cordon trees when in bloom, and also for accelerating the

ripening of their crops, and it is a=i ingenious in construction as it is
useful in character. The inventor, the Hev. Th. C. Brehaut, Richmond

3G0

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

House, Jersey, one of the most skilful amateur horticulturists of the
present day, thus describes it : —

" The Cordon Case illustrates a portion of a twelve-foot length,
with legs of ten inches above the soil, and three inches buried to
steady the case. The front glass is eighteen inches long, and there
is a half hip of wood at the back, removable to ventilate and prune

in bad weather. In fine
weather the floor, on which
the peach or apricot cor-
don lies, is lowered to the
earth to ventilate, prune,
or syringe, aud expose the
cordon to the air at plea-
sure. The leading idea is,
that the whole work is to
be done by raising this
floor to the level of the
front portion (which closes
up the case) iu bad wea-
ther, and by lowering the
floor in fine weather. The
cordon is inserted at the
side of the case, and may
be planted in the earth, or
from a pot. Vines are
well suited for this case,
which is also approved of
by Mr. Rivers ; and, being
very portable and cheap,
might be used for many
other purposes, such as
strawberries or bedding
plants."

Brehaut's Portable
Lawn Conservatory, ano-
ther of Mr. Bundle's re-
cent introductions, is also
a most novel and useful
invention, and is of equal
value for the cultivation
of choice plants during the
summer, the acceleration
of the growth of straw-
berries in pots in the
early spring months, and
for the protection of such
things as pansies, auri-
culas, and the choicest
kinds of alpine plants during the winter.

The Patent Glass Copings and the Eeversible Fruit Walls, two
of the most important of Mr. Bendle's introductions, are of the

Fig. 3.

-Brehault's Portable Cordon Case.
(Rendle's Patent).

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

361

utmost value in garden economy, and demand the instant attention
of both amateur and professional horticulturists. The glass coping
is intended for the protection of peach, nectarine, and other lruit-
trees trained to walls when in bloom, and is fixed to the walls by-
means of zinc grooves, so that the glass can be removed instantly
when not required ; and by the suspension of netting or canvas, so
as to reach nearly to the ground, the trees are most effectually pro-
tected from frost. The value of wide copings in the protection of
fruit trees in the spring has long been recognized by practical hor-
ticulturists, but, up to the present time, nothing of a satisfactory
character has been done to supply this long-felt want. These copings,
without depriving the trees of a ray of light, effectually protect the
flowers from frost and wet, and, apart from their low price, can be
heartily recommended to the notice of all who are the fortunate
possessors of a fruit wall. The Eeversible Fruit Walls are, so de-
signed that trees trained to a common wire espalier can, with the aid
of a specially made thick textile fabric, be either protected from ex-

Fig. 4. Manner of covering the Protectors in Frosty Weather.

cessive heat or excessive cold, as may be considered the most
desirable. The trees can be protected from the effects of outbursts
of brilliant sunshine during the winter months, and their flowering
season delayed considerably, a most important point when we take
into consideration the unfavourable character of the weather when
peach and other fruit-trees usually bloom, and they can be safely shel-
tered from northerly blasts when in bloom. The trees can also be
sheltered during the various stages of growth prior to the fruit
attaining maturity, and it can be removed altogether after the crop
is gathered, and the wood placed under the conditions most favour-
able to its becoming thoroughly ripened. By elevating the patent
grooved bricks upon ordinary kiln bricks, and leaving a few openiugs
on each side, the most efficient means of ventilation is secured
during the summer season ; and by covering the glass with mats, or
straw, or long litter, as shown in Tig. 4, frost can be excluded.

For further information we must refer our readers to the inventor,
Mr. W. E. Eendle, of Westminster Chambers, Victoria Street,
London, S.W., where we understand samples of all the forms of
protectors to which reference is here made, as well as information
with respect to the prices, can be obtained.

362

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

HEATING PLANT-HOUSES WITH GAS.

HE proper use of gas in the heating of plant-houses has
been sufficiently explained and enforced in the pages of
the Floral World, and we have from time to time
recommended gas-heating apparatus to the notice of
our readers. We cannot now afford space to treat of
the elementary principles of this subject, but we must repeat, as

Wright's Gas-heating Apparatus.

proper to the occasion, that wherever it is possible, the furnace and
boiler should be provided for in a chamber apart from the plant-
house, and that the heating of the plant-house should be accom-
plished by means of a system of hot-water pipes. Our present
object is to inform our readers of the most perfect system of
gas-heating apparatus we have hitherto become acquainted with,
the inventors and manufacturers of which are Messrs. Wright and
Co., 30, Broad Street, Islington, Birmingham. As will be seen by
the anuexed figures, which really do not require explanation, Messrs.
Wright take the very safe course of following the general scheme
of what may be termed the orthodox hot-water system, and the only
difference between their method and that of the ordinary upright
conical boiler is that the heat is derived from a gas flame instead of
from a coke fire. One special advantage this system certainly has,
and that is the large extent of radiating surface of the hot-water
pipes, which does away with the necessity of " driving" on frosty

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 3G3

nights, for a quite moderate flame, diffusing its heat slowly over a
comparatively great extent of piping, exerts a more powerful and
constant effect on the atmosphere of the house than it would do if
the piping were restricted, and the effect converted from spreadiug
into jumping, for we want no jumping of artificial heat in plant-
houst-s. S. H.

THE MANAGEMENT OF PLANT-HOUSES IN WINTER.

ET A KENTISH GABDENEE.

IS" the following remarks my object is to assist the amateur
readers of these pages, believing as I do they will ap-
preciate any effort that we can make to assist them in
the proper management of their plant-houses. Amongst
those for whom we write, many grave errors are com-
mitted in the management of plants under glass at this time of the
year, through want of knowledge of the conditions essential to
success. This is especially the case with fire-heat and air-giving
during the winter months. To these I might add the subject of
watering. All these are points upon which much has been said and
written ; but for all that, there is at the present moment as much
need of this being repeated again as ever there was.

Doubtless many have improved through what has been done for
them, but unfortunately those who are accustomed to look about
them, and to note what they see, can tell us that there are some
who have yet to learn the principles upon which to act when attend-
' ing to these operations. Did this only extend to the case of the
amateur, we might be less pointed in our remarks ; but we see it
sometimes with those who wish to be thought good gardeners.
And to such what ought I to say ? If I were to tell them point-
blank that they were wrong in their notions about excluding frost,
and keeping plants healthy, they would be offended, so I must be
content to tell them to ascertain the whereabouts of some enthu-
siastic amateur, and get a leaf out of his book about the proper
management of a greenhouse ; for there are mauy such from whom
they might learn some useful lessons. He will tell them that he
does not get the house up by fire-heat to 60° at seven o'clock in the
evening, and then leave his fire and the internal air of the house to
go down to freezing point by the morning. He will tell them, too,
that such extremes of temperature in the space of twelve hours are
positively killing the plants by inches ; because they are as it were
roasted at night and frozen in the morning. Such unthinking
individuals should place themselves in a similar position; perhaps
then they would be better able to judge if it was conducive to
health. If it proves not so, why then they have only to draw a
comparison between themselves and the plants in their houses
which are perhaps as sensitive as themselves to these sudden varia-
tions in temperature. Surely they would then understand why the

364 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

verbenas in their cutting-pots die off, and the cinerarias are in-
fested with fly, and the camellia buds fall from their stems, and
many other equally perplexing losses, all which I could easily name,
but it would be occupy iug valuable space, and serve no particular
purpose.

Indispensable as is the use of fire-heat for the exclusion of frost,
and to dry up damp, it is nevertheless equally injurious if applied
when it is not wanted ; and for such subjects as usually occupy the
majority of greenhouses, they are better without it than with it, ex-
cept in the case of frost, or a prolonged interval of cold damp
weather. Even in these cases there ought to be some discrimination
about applying it in an ordinary greenhouse if closed at three o'clock
in the afternoon. It should be remembered that from six to ten
degrees of frost outside will do little harm to the occupants of the
greenhouse; in fact they would endure the thermometer going down
to freezing point in the house better than they would a sudden rise
in the heat, as the latter calls into speedy action many important
organs of the plants, and which are as suddenly arrested in their
progress by the fire being left to go out early; and so they get a
chill, which if frequently repeated must tend to weaken them, and
may sometimes kill them outright. I have heard our Editor say that
he has seen his geraniums covered with hoar frost, and the ther-
mometer down to 26' in the house, yet no harm was done because of
the care taken never to allow rapid changes or great extremes of
temperature.

With all good gardeners it is now an acknowledged fact that
greenhouse plants, except for special purposes, do better without
fire-heat than with it, when frost can be kept at bay without its aid,
and damp expelled by the genial winds of heaven. But from this it
must not be inferred that 1 am advocating the discoutinuance of fire-
heat, and to leave our plant-houses to the mercy of the elements.
Such a course would be madness on my part; but what I want to
impress upon the reader's mind is that he should be less liberal in
his artificial heat, and that he should study the well-doing of his
plants, and not quite so much his own comfort, at every slight ap-
pearance of frost. I grant it is very comfortable to make up a fire
every afternoon when the wind blows from the east, because then
you can go to your own fire, and feel yourself safe if there should
come a frost. But what if no frost should come? Would not the
plants in your house have been better without the fire, and ought
there not to be a regret in the morning that you did not wait till
eight or nine o'clock in the evening to see bow it was likely to be ;
and that the firing had been uselessly consumed, and the plants
positively injured 'i The reader must not think that I am drawing
upon my imagination to make out a case to illustrate what 1 want
to say, because unhappily there is no need of that. Such instances
as I have just tried to relate are of too frequent occurrence, and
while they are continued as they are in the present day amongst our
villa gardeners I shall continue to crave a short space every year in
these pages to remind them of it, with a view to making them
brighter ornaments to our profession.

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 365

As a rule, fire to exclude frost should not be started till it is
actually freezing, The object should be just to keep pace with the
frost, and not to drive the thermometer up to 55° aud 60°. The
highest point at which the thermometer should be kept when the
fire is banked up for the night is 42° or 40", or even 38° is a better
standard, and which the practical reader will be sure to adopt ; but
at 42° no positive injury can be done, and will perhaps be safer for
the amateur gardener.

Eire-heat for the expulsion of damp is also worthy of a remark
here, because when it is judiciously applied it adds much to keep the
occupants of the house in a healthy condition. As a general rule,
once a week will be enough for the purpose, and then there are many
fine dry weeks through the winter that would not require it, if only
an ordinary amount of care is used in watering. When the fire is
lighted for this purpose, the day should be fine, that all ventilators
may be opened, so as to admit of a free circulation of air amongst all
the plants.

This now leads me to say something on the subject of air-giving.
The subject of air-giving is a point in the management of plant-
houses on which definite rules cannot be given for the winter season,
so much depends upon the outward elements. It cannot be done in
a mechanical sort of a manner, at stated hours in the day, because
we must be guided by the state of the weather, and the condition of
the plants. But taking the generality of small houses, they do not
get air enough ; this is owing to a prevailing notion that the plants
do not require it, unless the sun is shining brightly ; but this is a
false notion, and fully accounts for what we see in the shape of weak
and sickly plants, drawn up to a state approaching to wretchedness,
and all for the want of a sufficient quantity of fresh and pure air.
To the unitiated, this will be a sufficient explanation of the cause of
the flower-stems of primulas being twice the length they ought to
be, and why those flowers which should be pink are no colour at all.
This will explain, too, the reason of the flowers of early cinerarias
and tulips being small and almost colourless. In a word, it will
explain the true cause of many losses and disappointments which we
in our capacity are obliged to hear of. Sometimes we are asked to
condemn a quite different agency for these mishaps, but this we
always decline to do, because unintentionally the inquirer lets us
into the secret of his management by the inquiries he makes. There-
fore, before we take up complaints against seedsmen, we always wish
to know how the plants were treated. Air-giving ought to be at-
tended to the first thing in the morning, by putting on a little at the
top of the house at all times when it is not actually freezing. If it
is a mild morning, the same may be done with the bottom ventilators,
gradually increasing it till the weather will enable you to judge how
much can be given for the day. Endeavour as much as possible to
create a circulation through the house early in the day, that the
leaves may perform their proper functions in a fresh atmosphere,
and that those impurities which they give out during the night may
be dispersed. It is essential that, with the stimulus of daylight they
should breathe a fresh air, for on it they depend for a certain amount

366 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

of sustenance to keep them in health. In conjunction with air-
giving, I may say a few words on early closing, for this is highly
desirable, as the solar heat so enclosed is more congenial'not only to
the health but to the wants of the plants, as the fact of its being
naturally supplied must convince every one. From the time these
notes come to the hands of the reader, until the end of next March,
all plant-houses should be closed at three o'clock in the afternoon.
This will shut in a great deal of natural warmth, which is liberally
generated in the house during the day, and will tend materially to
reduce the necessity of fire-heat should frost set in.

On the subject of watering of greenhouse plants during winter, a
young friend has recently written to me in the following strain: " I
have a small house, chiefly of pelargoniums. I read that during
frosty weather greenhouse plants should not be watered. Is this
correct ? " Now as the reply I gave to that note will explain all
that I think it needful to say on the subject of watering here, I shall
give it at full length : " Never mind about what you have somewhere
read that greenhouse plants should not be watered in frosty weather,
or you will have to regret doing so, because as such wreather is often
attended with a good deal of sunshine, as well as the extra fire-heat
which is necessary, and which tends greatly to dry up the soil in the
pots, they actually require more water than in dull cloudy weather ;
but do not give more than is just necessary to keep them from
flagging, as you must not encourage them to make any growth under
such conditions. Look over the plants every other day, but never
give water to a plant at this season unless it wants it ; what water-
ing you do, do it before 10 a.m., and if there is a nice mild air, give
plenty of it, to dry up any water that may be spilt upon the shelves
or floor of the house. But if the air should be too keen and sharp,
light a little fire, and open the top ventilators, that there may be no
damp hanging about the house at the approach of night."

HINTS ON CHEISTMAS DECOEATIONS.

PAYING been many times concerned in the direction and
preparation of floral displays at Christmas, it has occurred
to me that a few practical observations may be useful
to our readers. The materials available at the present
time are few, if we keep strictly to the use of natural
objects, but we may augment them by means of suitable additions
of an artificial character. I once had the assistance of some ladies
who were expert and tasteful in the making of paper flowers, and by
their kind help, a brilliant display of paper Chrysanthemums set in
the midst of evergreens was the result. But I leave thin part of the
subject to others, and shall make remarks only upon such materials
as the garden and greenhouse will supply.

Christmas decorations should be prepared with a view to their
being effective by gaslight. Hence, elaborate colouring ia less

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 367

needful than broad and bold effects. Half-tints, as a rule, are quite
washv by gaslight, though some neutrals, such as lilac, dove colour,
and fawn, are valuable, as they afford by gaslight various chaste
shades of grey, and are more pleasing than white. These colours
■will generally be preferable to red, or any of the primary colours, for
ribbons to tie garlands, and in artificial flowers to brighten the
effects of the stronger colours. The two predominating colours in
Christmas decorations should be red and gbeen. Any and every
shade of the two colours can be used to advantage, but depth and
richness are needed to be consistent with the season. As it is well
to be appropriate, those who prepare artificial flowers should select
subjects that are in bloom at this time of year. Thus Chrysan-
themums and Camellias are at once easy to make, admit of great
variety of colour, and belong properly to the season. The Tree
Carnations are also in flower, and therefore the brilliant Clove may
be imitated. The mention of these things reminds me to say that
plants may now be purchased in bloom of the following kinds, all
adapted for embellishment : Camellias, Chrysanthemums, Tree Car-
nations, Chinese Primulas, Mignonette, Persian Cyclamen, snowy
Deutzia, Early Tulips, Poinsettia pulcherrima (a gorgeous thing with
large vivid scarlet floral bracts), a few Heaths, and Azaleas. The
garden should supply many kinds of evergieen shrubs, and an
abundance of berries. To name the Holly is of course proper, it is
the tree of greatest renown at Christmastide, but we may also make
use of the berries of several kinds of Thorn, Cotoneaster, and common
Euonynuis. From the greenhouse we may obtain a gem of priceless
value, the neat little Solanum capsicastrum, or its companion plant,
Solanum pseudo-capsicum. From the same source too we may even
hope for pot plants of the Aucuha Japonica with red berries on
them, and the stove should supply Ardisia crenulata, Eivinia humilis,
and the Tangerine orange. I had almost forgotten to name Skimmia
Japonica and Skimmia oblata, two neat dwarf rhododendron-like
shrubs that are smothered with scarlet berries now ; they are quite
hardy, and may be grown in pots expressly for Christmas decoration.
In cutting evergreens, it is important to bear in mind that every
separate kind is adapted for a separate use. Thus the common
Laurel, Aucuba, and Portugal Laurel are well adapted for lar°e
work, such as festooning the pillars in churches, or for the embellish-
ment of entrance-halls ; but in dining-rooms and refectories they
have a coarse appearance. Hollies are never coarse, and never
inappropriate. The neatest way to make wreaths of leaves and
flowers is to cut a lot of Irish ivy, and tie every leaf separately on
lengths of rope, and pin the flowers on after the wreaths are
suspended. It is astonishing how quickly a few score yards of
wreaths may be made by people who set about the work in earnest.
In gardens near town, evergreens are generally so sooty that
it is not a very delicate business to handle them ; but as walls
require to be kept clean, a little purification of the leaves should be
attempted, especially of such as are to be much handled, and are
ultimately to touch walls or curtains. Let all the stufl' be carried to
a dry clean shed or spare room, and there set a person to work with

368 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

a heap of dry cloths of auy kind, his or her duty being to wipe the
surfaces of the leaves and throw them into clean baskets ready for
use. "Washing is bad practice — in fact, worse than letting the dirt
remain. Our country readers know nothing of the smoke-plague.
To them a twig of holly or mistletoe is as good an emblem of purity
as of Christmas fun and Christmas cheer.

It is the custom to introduce plants and flowers on the dinner-
table, and in apartments appropriated to festivities. Very pretty
groups may be made at a very small cost of time and trouble for the
centres of tables, for side-boards, and especially for entrance-halls,
by means of pot plants and small twigs of variegated ivy clothed
with scarlet berries. The plants most suitable are Poinsettias,
Solanums, Skimmias, Primulas, and perhaps the Christmas Rose.
Branches of the glorious Pyracantha, or evergreen thorn, with its
huge bunches of fieiy or orange-red berries, may also be obtainable.
Now how are we to make our groups P We want, first, some kind
of frame- work to enclose it. The lattice flower-pot covers sold by
Carter and Co., Barr and Sugden, and other dealers in such things,
answer admirably, if cut through, for one cover will then draw out
and make two or three yards of pretty lattice-work. Moss is not
nice stuff to bring into a house, and therefore it is not advised to
use it for the substance of the bed, otherwise it would be the very
thing we want to fill in between the pots, and make a sort of back
to the lattice-work. Where there's a will there's a way. The ladies
of a household will soon find something cl:an and dry to serve for
moss to bed the pots in, but if they want a hint to give them a start,
I will suggest that Berlin wool of a bright deep grass-green colour,
clipped into inch or half-inch lengths, will make splendid artificial
moss, and may be put away when done with so as to come in again
and again for a series of years. When such a group is made, a finish
may be given by means of wreaths of holly arching over. These of
course should be made of wire let into blocks of wood at each end,
and bent to the required curve. The wire should first be bound
with common hempen yarn, and then the little twigs of variegated
holly, variegated ivy, and other variegated shrubs may be tied on.
Neatness must be aimed at in making such wreaths, as these and a
circular group will look best if arched over with two wreaths crossing
each other at right angles. A little sprig of something pretty should
be hung in the centre where the two wreaths cross each other.
Toere are two evils incident to the introduction of a decoration of
this kind to the dinner-table : first, it is likely to interrupt the view,
and so prevent people seeing each other ; aud, secondly, it is likely
to occupy more room than can be spared. I mention these matters
that they may be thought of in time, for I should be sorry to be the
agent in any case of marring the sociality of a Christmas board.

Plateaux and epergnes should always be richly furnished, and
everything artificial should be rigorously excluded from them. To
devise systematic colourings in the filling of these things is I con-
ceive unnecessary and inadvisable at Christmas. In the summer we
see them dressed with masses of white, blue, rose, etc., etc., in a
most systematic way, though if grace is secured by mixtures it is far

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 369

preferable. But now we want no geometric or chromatic rules,
Delicate touches of colour are of no consequence, but our ideas of
warmth and plenty should be kept in view at every step. Nothing
snits so well as a display of good fruits with twigs of holly and
pyracantha, and a few good flowers sprinkled over them. Apples
and pears afford splendid masses of colour ; camellias, tulips, and
carnations will keep fresh and beautiful many hours if their stems
are tucked in between cool fruits, for of course there must be no
water ; and it is advisable there should be nothing poisonous — so I
say nothing of the Christmas rose or of the Solanums for admixture
with fruits.

The following are most valuable shrubs to cut from for Christmas
decorations : Minorca box, round-leaved box, Lauristinus, generally
in flower at this time, Arbutus with ripe fruit, Berberis Darwinii,
lovely for delicate wreaths and fillets, though very thorny, Coto-
neaster rotundifolia, Crataegus pyracantha, Daphne laureola, Euony-
mus Europreus, the leaves are off now, but there are plenty of coral
berries ; in cutting branches, handle them tenderly, for the berries
fall if roughly used. Of hollies, the silvery-leaved kinds are un-
doubtedly the best, for they glitter splendidly in gaslight. Phillyrea,
several sorts ; the holly oak (Quercus ilex) is first-rate. Skimmias
of all kinds.

Lastly, it must not be forgotten that vases and other such
receptacles can be dressed very effectually by means of dried grasses
and artificial flowers. But for information on growing, preparing,
and arranging these, reference must be made to the Floral World
for March 1869, in which occurs an illustration of a wreath of
artificial flowers and grasses. S. H.

WINTER WOEK IN THE KITCHEN GAEDEN.

BY GEORGE GRAY.

LTHOUGH the kitchen garden presents fewer attractions
at this season of the year than at any other period, it
must on no account be neglected, and those who pay
much attention to the cultivation of vegetables have an
abundance of work to occupy their heads and hands
during the next two months.

In the first place, it is necessary to determine at once what each
quarter is to be cropped with next season, so as to be able to prepare
the ground according to the requirement of the several crops. Also,
to prevent confusion in the spring, when the sowing and planting is
going on ; when these arrangements are left until the spring, it is no
unusual occurrence to find at the last moment that there is insuffi-
cient or no room for some of the important crops. In gardens of a
considerable size, the vegetables to be grown, and the extent of the
crop of each, must of necessity be regulated by the taste of the
owner; but in small gardens, such as are allotted to the majority of
suburban villas, it is necessary to act with caution, and only grow
the most profitable. As a rule, preference should be given to vege-

VOL. VI. — NO. XII. 24,

370 TITE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

tables of a similar character to cabbage and broccoli, because of their
being so much better when cooked soon after they are gathered.
Such things as potatoes and onions, which can be transported long
distances without undergoing any deterioration whatever, should
only be grown in quantity in gardens where there is plenty of room
for everything. In fact, only the early potatoes, which can be cleared
off the ground early enough in the summer for it to be planted again
with broccoli, or winter greens of some kind, should be planted.
Peas also are not profitable, and the finest marrow varieties only
should be grown ; for peas can be frequently purchased early in the
season for less than the cost of the sticks. The better class of peas,
on the other hand, which are not only fine in quality, but very pro-
ductive, cannot often be purchased, and must therefore be grown at
home. Onions and carrots should only be grown in limited quan-
tities for use during the summer in a young state ; and turnips and
parsnips should not be grown at all, as the ground can be more pro-
fitably employed. Cauliflowers do not, perhaps, yield such a large
supply of food as cabbages and other greens, but they well repay the
cost of cultivating, and should be planted liberally. The extent to
which cabbage is grown must be determined by the esteem in which
it is held, and in any case they should be planted rather close to each
other, and cut and sent to table before they are full grown. Broccolis
will well repay the cost of cultivation, but they cannot be depended
on, for such winters as 1870-71 cuts them up in a wholesale manner.
Scarlet runners are one of the most profitable of garden crops, for
in ordinary good soils they yield a very large supply throughout the
season. Two sowings should be made of these, one as early in the
season as the state of the weather will permit, and the other early in
June, to keep up the supply after the crop has become exhausted.
Dwarf French beans are hardly so profitable as the scarlet runners,
but they take up very little room, require no sticks, and they can be
highly recommended. Lettuce aud other salading should, as a matter
of course, be grown in proportion to the space at disposal.

Iu determining the manner in which each quarter is to be cropped
next year, so as to keep it at work without intermission, it must not
be forgotten that, as far as possible, no quarter should be occupied
two consecutive years with the same kind of crop. A proper system
of rotation is one of the grand secrets in kitchen gardening, but as
there is not sufficient room in small gardens for carrying on a system-
atic rotation of cropping, it is not of much use to enlarge upon
this part of the question. It will also be well to bear in mind
that some things do better in ground manured the previous year
than they do in that which has received a liberal dressing of fer-
tilizing matter a short time previously.

Peas, potatoes, and all the members of the great Brassica family,
on the other band, require an abundance of manure, and there is no
fear of the ground being too rich for them.

One of the most important points in kitchen garden practice is
to stir the soil to a considerable depth, early enough in the winter
to admit of its thorough pulverization by the frost and rain. To say
that trenching the ground early in the winter, and leaving the sur-

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 371

face until the following spring in the roughest state possible, is equal
to a dressing of manure would be overstating the case, but it may
be said that the produce of the garden may be materially augmented
by trenching a part every season. It is not necessary to trench the
ground every year, even were it practicable to do so, but it should
be turned over every second or third year, and to make the
work as little felt as possible, a portion should be done every
season. Supposing the work of trenching the ground is spread
over three years, divide the garden into three imaginary divi-
sions, and trench No. 1 this winter, No. 2 in the winter of 72, and
No. 3 in the winter of 73, and in the following winter commence
with No. ] , and proceed as before. It is not desirable to bring
subsoils utterly unfit for the growth of plants, such as tenacious
clay or gravel, to the surface, and the depth to which the ground
must be turned up must be regulated by the depth of good soil. In
trenching shallow soils it is a very good plan to trench the soil to a
depth of fifteen or twenty inches, and then simply break up the
subsoil with a fork without bringing it to the surface. Jn dressing
the quarters with manure at this, or any other season of the year,
the manure should be regularly mixed with the soil throughout its
entire depth, and not thrown into the bottom of the trench as is so
frequently done.

All vacant quarters should, as a matter of course, be turned up
at once, and those only partly occupied examined, and the remaining
crops, if practicable, taken up and planted in one corner, and the
vacant space dug or otherwise prepared for the next crop. Turnips
of sufficient size for table may be taken up and put in clumps, in the
same mauner as potatoes. They will then be safe from frost and
leave the ground at liberty, without suffering any deterioration in
quality whatever. The potato clamps should &.lso be examined
to see whether the potatoes are sufficiently protected in case of
severe frost. Last winter a very considerable quantity was rendered
unfit for use through being exposed to the effects of frost. The soil
should not be less than fifteen inches in thickness, but an additional
three or six inches will be preferable. The stores of roots should
shortly undergo a thorough examination, and any roots that are
decayed in any way removed from those which are perfectly sound.

THE GARDEN GUIDE FOE DECEMBER.

Eloweii Gakden. — All ground work should be pushed on as
fast as circumstances will permit, to enable it to get thoroughly
settled before spring. This is a very good time to form fresh lawns,
and lay down turf. Work of this kind is frequently left until spring,
and generally entails an immeuse amount of labour in watering, to
keep the grass alive ; whereas, if laid down at this season of the
year, it would be thoroughly established before the weather is hot
enough to affect it. Deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted
during the early part of the month with reasonable chance of success,
but unless the planting can be finished quickly, it will be well to

372 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

leave it until the spring. All unoccupied beds and borders should be
dug up, and the surface left rough to enable the weather to act upon
it. Now that the trees have all shed their leaves, clear the shrubbery
borders, to prevent their being blown about with every gust of
wind, and littering the walks and grass-plots. Protect tea and other
tender roses with dry litter or fern ; but where they are growing in
a prominent position, this system of protection will be objectionable,
and, instead of adopting it, take the plants up carefully, and lay
them in by their heels in a sheltered corner, and cover with litter or
fern. These can be planted again early in March, and will, if handled
carefully, scarcely feel the shift.

Kitchen Garden. — Draw a little earth to the Beans and Peas
now peeping through the ground, and keep a sharp look-out for
mice, which are very busy just now, and trap them directly they
make an appearance. In very sharp weather, cover Celery with
long litter, for it soon rots in the centre after it has been frozen.
Take up a supply of Jerusalem Artichokes and Parsnips for imme-
diate use, and place in the root-house, and cover with dry sand or
Boil ; but the principal bulk should remain in the ground for the
present, as they are firmer, and eat more mellow than when taken
up at the beginning of the winter, and stored in the root-house.
Frosty mornings must be taken advantage of for getting manure on
vacant quarters ; and when the weather is unfavourable for out-door
work, overhaul the root-stores, and remove all that exhibit the least
signs of decay from contact with that which is sound.

Greenhouse. — Many amateurs lose large numbers of plants,
simply because they crowd the house as full as it will hold, and then
water in the same careless manner as in summer, and fancy, because
the weather happens to be cold, that the ventilators must be kept
close. To keep the usual stock of greenhouse plants in health
during the winter, maintain a comparatively dry atmosphere, which
must be regularly changed by opening the ventilators on all favour-
able opportunities ; and if there is any danger of the temperature
falling too low, apply a little fire-heat during the time the venti-
lators are open. To economize fuel as well as for the sake of the
health of the plants, cover the glass with thick canvas, mats, or
frigidomo, during very sharp frosts, to prevent the escape of the
heat. Watei^early and choose a clear, bright day for that purpose.
It will be better to let the plants be dry for a day or two than water
them in damp weather. At the same time, the soil in which heaths
and other plants of like character are potted must not be allowed to
get dust dry. Cyclamens, and single and double Primulas, now
coming into flower, must have the warmest corner the house affords.
Look sharp after green-fly, and fumigate immediately it makes its
appearance. Remove every decayed leaf, and keep everything as
clean and sweet as circumstances will permit.

Fruit Garden. — Pruning of all fruit-trees, excepting the Peach
and Nectarine, must be commenced in earnest. Lay in no more
wood than is really required, for nothing is gained by over-crowding,
but much lost. Give Apple-trees infested with American blight a
thorough washing with strong brine, but avoid damaging either

THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 373

fruit-buds or wood-buds. See tbat trees planted last month are
properly staked, and cover the soil immediately over the roots with
six inches of half-rotten stable manure, to prevent the frost loosen-
ing it.

Stoye. — The temperature advised for last month will be suitable
for this. Nothing must be done to excite any of the occupants
unnecessarily, just now, or the summer growth will be poor and
weak in consequence. Attend carefully to Perns, especially the
delicate kinds, like the Gymnogrammas, Nothochlsenas, and Cheil-
anthes, the fronds of which soon decay, if wetted frequently, or
exposed to a damp atmosphere. All kinds should be kept as quiet
as possible. Sometimes the close-growing Selaginellas will rot at
this season, and the best way to stop its progress is to clear away
the decayed portion, and then sprinkle the plants with dry sand, and
place them in a dry position near the glass for a short time. The
necessary precautions must, however, be taken to prevent the tender
growth flagging.

Forcing. — See directions for Inst month. Rhubarb, Seakale,
and Asparagus may now be lifted, and introduced into heat ; the
first must be taken up without the roots being broken about, and
with as much soil adhering to them as possible. The roots can be
placed in any out-of-the-way corner of the stove or forcing-house.
Seakale must be forced in the dark, but Asparagus should be forced
in a frame, close to the glass, and receive abundance of air to develop
the flavour. Sow French Beans in small pots, and shift into larger
ones as soon as they are well rooted. Place near the glass to keep
them dwarf and stocky.

Pits and Frames. — Violets must be protected in cold and frosty
weather, but draw the lights off entirely whenever the weather will
admit of its being done with advantage. Auriculas, Carnations,
Pansies, Pinks, and Picotees, must have a free circulation of air
about them at all times, excepting when the weather is very damp
or frosty. A few degrees of frost will not do so much injury as a
stagnant atmosphere. The early-potted Hyacinths and other Dutch
bulbs must be uncovered at once, and exposed to the light. Remove
successive batches to the forcing-pit, the temperature of which
should now average 60°. Syringe flowering shrubs overhead slightly
once a day, to enable the buds to push strong.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.

N all sides the Chrysanthemum season of 1871 is justly
pronounced to have been considerably below the average
of previous years. This in a measure was owing to the
cold and uncongenial weather experienced during the
early part of the summer, which prevented the plants
making much progress until the summer was too far advanced to
admit of a thorough maturation of the wood. None of the exhi-
bitions have been quite up to the mark, but at the majority a few
fair specimens and some grand blooms were staged. The best cut

374 THE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

blooms were those shown at Stoke Newington by Mr. James, Mr.
Rowe, and others. The best specimen plants of both large flowering
and pompone varieties were staged at the exhibition of the South
Essex Society, held at Stratford. The exhibitions of this society
have long been celebrated for the magnificence of the specimens of
the large-flowering varieties, but this year it also excelled in the
specimen pompones, and the specimens exhibited by Mr. Dcuglas,
gardener to F. Whitbourn, Esq , Loxford Hall, have not been sur-
passed for many years past. The plants were not only large and
well flowered, but the blooms were extra fine and remarkably fresh.
Usually the finest specimens of the latter class are met with at the
exhibitions of the Brixton Hill Society, but this year they were
smaller than usual. The exhibition at Brixton Hill, on the whole,
was, however, very good, and the specimens presented in the class
for six large-flowered varieties by Mr. Weston, gardener to D. Mar-
tineau, Esq., Clapham Park, were the best plants of a medium size
exhibited during the present season. Ornamental-leaved plants,
Chinese Primulas, Ferns, and other plants, as well as fruit were
shown, and the result was a most interesting and attractive exhibition.
The Liverpool Chrysanthemum and Fruit Show was, with respect to
the Chrysanthemums, decidedjy below the average, but the grand
display of fruit and miscellaneous plants was more than sufficient to
satisfy the visitors, and make it a great success. One of the most
important features of the show was the collections of Poinsettias
exhibited by Mr. Biggs and others, and it may be said that this
brilliant subject was never exhibited in better condition. The
Woolwich Society consists almost exclusively of amateur growers,
yet it has had a very fine exhibition, considering that Chrysan-
themums only were exhibited. The speciality of the show was the
standard specimens, the specimens of the large-flowering varieties
being the finest ever exhibited. Mr. Adam Forsyth, of the Bruns-
wick Nursery, Stoke Newington, who is now the only trade repre-
sentative of this noble autumnal flower, has had, according to
annual custom, a very fine display in the large show-house adjoining
the road. The plants are grown without any stopping or training
whatever, excepting the support afforded to the main stem by a single
stake. Only one flower is allowed to each shoot, all but the ter-
minal bud being removed as soon as they were advanced sufficiently
to admit of its being done without injuring the one to be left. The
results are plants bearing flowers of the finest possible quality, and
of a form most convenient for the decoration of the conservatory.
What is done by Mr. Forsyth may be done in a private establish-
ment, provided the time can be spared during the summer for
attending to the plants. The specimens of which the exhibition consists
in Mr. Forsyth's nursery are grouped on the floor in the centre of
the house, and on the side stages, and the immense number of blooms
present a most brilliant effect. Owing to the lateness of the season,
the majority of the plants will remain in good condition for a short
time after the appearance of these notes, and as the exhibition is
open to the public, those who are interested in the matter will do
well to pay it a visit without any undue loss of time.

TIIE FLORAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE. 375

Instead of giving the names of the varieties in the winning stands
of cut blooms at the various exhibitions, I will enumerate a few of
the most striking met with in a critical examination of Mr. Forsyth's
unrivalled collection a few days since. In making the selection,
preference was given to such varieties as succeed well with ordinary
management, and are best adapted for the embellishment of the con-
servatory.

Amongst the large-flowered varieties Duchess of Roxburgh, a fine
flower of large size and fine finish ; Mr. W. H. Morgan, a variety in
the way of Jardin des Piantes ; Miss Mart/ Morgan, clear delicate
pink and fine form ; Mr. George JLaskin, warm peach, a bold hand-
some flower ; Plenipo, rosy purple, large and good ; Botundifolia,
pearly white, changing to blush as the flowers acquire age ; Alfred
Salter, delicate pink, pleasing and effective ; Antonelli, bronzy orange ;
Aurea multiflora, pure yellow ; Bella Donna, lilac, large, and showy;
Beverley, wliite ; Golden Beverley, yellow, both first-rate; Bronze
Jardin des Piantes, deep reddish- bronze hue ; Dr. Sharps, a very
distinct and beautiful variety, with reflexed flowers of a deep crimson
hue ; Empress Eugenie, delicate rosy lilac ; General Slade, bronzy
red tipped with orange : General Bainbrigge, buff shading to amber ;
General Hardinge, deep reddish purple ; Gloria Mundi, golden yellow,
very fine : Golden Trilby, clear yellow; Guernsey Nugget, primrose-
yellow ; Isabella Bott, delicate white tinted rose-lilac ; Jardin des
Piantes, orange-yellow, fine and constant ; Lady Hardinge, delicate
rose ; Le Grand, rosy peach, a pleasing shade of colour ; Mr. Brun-
lees, deep red tipped with orange-yellow, bold and constant ; Mr.
Cullenford, deep purple, a fine variety, not grown so extensively as it
should be ; Mr. Gladstone, reddish chesnut, valuable, although there
are several others of a similar hue ; Mrs. George Bundle, pure white,
flowers of medium size, but of the finest possible form ; Prince of
Wales, deep purple ; Prince Alfred, rosy crimson ; Princess Beatrice,
delicate rosy pink ; Princess of Tech, pure white ; Princess of Wales,
white, tinted with delicate rose ; Queen of England, blush-white ;
Bev. J. Dix, orange-red; Six G. Bowyer, a distinct shade of purple ;
Venus, pink-shaded lilac ; Virgin Queen, white, and White Globe,
white.

The Japanese varieties are now steadily gaining ground in public
favour, as they well deserve, for they are all of the highest value for
conservatory decoration ; for with a good selection a plentiful supply
of Chrysanthemums may be had from the beginning of November
until the end of December.

The dwarf pompone varieties are most valuable for conservatory
decoration. They are neat in growth, and very easily managed. The
following selection represents ; 11 the different shades of colour, and
includes none but which are distinct and effective: — Andromeda
Bob, Gedo Nulli, General Ganrobert, James Forsyth, Golden Cedo
Nulli, White Trevenna, Salamon, Mrs. Dix, Lixzie Holmes, Bose
Trevenna, Adonis, Lilac Cedo Nulli, Atala, Brown Cedo Nulli, Sainte
Thais, Surprise, Calliope, Mrs. Rutt, Aurora Borealis, St. Michael,
Duruflet, Brilliant, Madame Marthe. Q-t q.

376 THE FLOKAL WORLD AND GARDEN GUIDE.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Edging Plant?. — A. G. B. — The following are the most desirable of the
plants suitable for forming divisional or marginal lines in the flower-garden during
the summer mouths: — Achillea umbellata, grey, dwarf, and bushy, marginal or
divisional lines. Achyrocline Saundersoni, silvery, dwarf, and dense marginal
lines. Arabis alpina variegata, pale yellow variegation, dwarf and compact, mar-
ginal lines ; A. lucida variegata, yellow variegation, dwarf and slow-growing, edgings
to very small beds only. Centaurea argentea plumosa, silvery, neat, marginal or
divisional lines ; C. gymnocarpa, grey foliage, tall centres or edgings to large
beds ; C. ragusina, white foliage, centres and second or third rows ; C. ragusina
compacta, dwarfer than the preceding, and the best for marginal lines. Cerastium
Biebersteini, silvery, dwarf and spreading, edgings ; C. tonientosum, dwarfer than
the preceding, and the most useful for edgings. Chrysanthemum Sensation, yellow
variegation, second rows or marginal lines. Cineraria acanthifoh 'a, white, upright,
but compact in growth, edgings or divisional lines ; C. asplenifolia, silvery grey,
compact, useful for first, second, or third rows ; C. maritima, grey, robust, best
adapted for back rows and centres of beds. Coprosma Baueriana variegata, creamy
variegation, very effective edgings. Dactylis elegantissima, white, tall and strag-
gling, edgings for large beds only. Fcheveria glauca metallica, glaucous green,
best adapted for forming edgings to large beds; F. metallica, reddish brown,
centres or edgings to large beds ; F. secunda, green, red margins, edgings for
large or small beds ; F. secunda glauca, glaucous white, invaluable for edging pur-
poses. Fuonymusjlavescens, chrome yellow foliage, rich and effective, first, second,
or third rows ; F. japonicus aureo variegatus, yellow variegation, first or second
rows ; F. radicans variegatus, white variegation, very dwarf edgings. Fuchsia
Golden Fleece, yellow leafage, dwarf and compact marginal lines ; F. Golden
Treasure, similar, but stronger in growth than the preceding. Gnaphalium tomen-
tosum, white, neat and compact, suitable for first or second rows. Lonicera aurea
variegata, yellow variegation, edgings to large beds. Mesembryanthemum cordi-
folium variegatum, pale yellow, dwarf, spreading ; invaluable. Polemonium cceru-
leum variegatum, creamy white variegation, edgings to large beds. Pyrethryi
Golden Feather, greenish yellow, compact, useful for all purposes. Salvia offi-
cinalis aurea variegated sage, dwarf, compact, and effective. Santolina incana,
silvery dwarf, and close growing, marginal lines. Sempervivum Californicum, deep
green, red tips, marginal or divisional lines ; S. montanum, green, small, suitable
for edging small beds only. Senicio argentea, white, dwarf, and compact, valuable
for small beds ; S. incana, similar to the preceding, forms neat edgings. Stachys
lanata, greyish, suitable for edgings, long borders. Teucrium polium, greyish
green neat and useful for edgings. Veronica Andersoni variegata, creamy white
variegation, compact, marginal lines. Veronica Candida {incana), greyish dwarf,
marginal or divisional lines ; Vinca elegantissima, yellow variegation, suitable for
edgings to large beds only; V. minor, fol. var., dwarfer thau the preceding, and
very effective. .

Management of Golden Balm. — S.— This beautiful plant is at its best during
April and May. In the course of June it becomes dull in colour and too strong in
growth, and is sometimes eaten up by red spider. A pretty sure way of making a
second display is to cut it down close about the 15th <5f June, and give it a heavy
soaking of water a week afterwards.

j?_ 21.— The flowering of the plant referred to at such an early date is rather
unusual. There are good and bad varieties, as in every other class of plants.

Building Vineby and Greenhouse. — J. R. Crewe. — An angle of 30° from the
base of the rafter will be quite sufficient slope for the roof of the vinery. A semi-
epan would matorially diminish the height of the back wall, and the vinery would
match better with the greenhouse. The short lights should be about three feet, and
the vines can be trained down them.

In houses of the dimensions mentioned it will be difficult to set apart any part
for propagating purposes ; numbers of cuttings may however be struck in the spring
in the virjtry with the aid of hand-glasses. We have had no experience with the
bouses mentioned. You must not have a very high front wall.

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