-frO

REESE LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

Received ..
Accessions No. ^

FLOWERS

PARLOR AND GARDEN.

BY

EDWARD ^PRAGUE RAND, JR.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN ANDREW AND A. C. WARREN.

BOSTON:
HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY.

press,
1882.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863, by

EDWARD S. RAND, JR.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by

EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, JR.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington

TO

i. IE. m.

IN MEMORY OF PLEASANT HOURS

.VIOLET BANK.

PREFACE

TO THE TWENTY-FIFTH EDITION.

• TlEW would have predicted, when in 1863 the first edi-
tion of " Flowers for the Parlor and Garden " was is-
sued, the favorable manner in which it would be received by
the public.

There was at the time a want- of a manual of culture,
which the volume supplied. From the position it then
took as the standard work on popular floriculture, it has
never been displaced, and now, thirteen years from the time
of its first publication, it remains the recognized authority
on the subject.

The present time> however, seems fitting to issue the
work in an enlarged form, with additions which bring its
pages up to the horticultural standard of the present day.

This has been done by the addition of three new chap-
ters, in which will be found concise notices of many new
and rare plants, as well as notes on improved methods of
cultivation.

In a manual of culture, embracing many classes of
plants, it is impossible, without exceeding the reasonable
limits of the work, to give long lists or extended descrip

IV PREFACE TO THE TWENTY-FIFTH EDITION.

tions, and in the present volume these have not been at-
tempted.

The object has been to give brief notices of the best
species, trustworthy directions for culture, and practical
suggestions as to the adaptation of various plants to special
modes of culture.

Those who wish more extended directions, or longer
lists of Species and varieties, are referred to the companion
volumes, " Garden Flowers," " Bulbs," " Popular Flowers,"
" The Window Gardener," and " Rhododendrons and
American Plants," in which the several subjects will be
found treated at length with all the suggestions and practi-
cal knowledge which an experience of many years has
afforded.

The six volumes now before the public as just issued in
revised editions, form an indispensable guide to the amateur
cultivator. While they touch upon matters in all branches
of floriculture, there are subjects which demand still more
elaborate treatment.

To this end we have in preparation six other volumes, on
Greenhouse Plants, Stove Plants, Hardy Shrubs, Or-
chids, Ferns, and Horticultural Nomenclature, which, with
the volumes already issued, will form a complete library of
horticulture, and for these we bespeak the favor of all
lovers of flowers.
GLKN RIDGE, January, 1876.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAOB

INTRODUCTION 7

I. THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY 15

II. WINDOW GARDENING 48

III. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING 62

IV. PLANTS TOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. . . 88
V. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. . . 117

VI. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING — Continued. . . 140

VII. CAPE BULBS 160

VIII. BUTCH BULBS 180

IX. THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE 198

X. THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE 203

XI. How TO FORCE FLOWERS TO BLOOM IN WINTER. . 213
XII. BALCONY GARDENING 224

XIII. THE WARDIAN CASE, AND WINTER GARDEN. . . 232

XIV. STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. . . . 244
XV. HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND

TREATMENT OF IVY. , 253

1* (5)

6 CONTENTS.

XVI. THE WALTONIAN CASE. 262

XVII. THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS 273

XVIII. How TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS 286

XIX. OUT-DOOR GARDENING. — HOT-BEDS 307

XX. THE GARDEN 318

XXI. SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS 326

XXII. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS .344

XXIII. HARDY ANNUALS 352

XXIV. BEDDING PLANTS 364

XXV. HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. . . .370

XXVI. SPRING FLOWERS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM. . .381

APPENDIX.

XXVII. NEW AZALEAS. — NOTES ON CYCLAMEN. — NEW PELARGO-
NIUMS. — VERBENAS. — HELIOTROPE. —'NEW ROSES. —
PINKS. — FUCHSIAS. — ABUTILON. — CALLAS. — CUPHEA.

— CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

XXVIII. NEW HYACINTHS. — GLADIOLUS. — BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS.

— FORCING LILY OF THE VALLEY. — LANTANAS. — NEW
CANNAS. — ORCHIDS FOR THE PARLOR. — FERNS FOR
THE PARLOR.

XXIX. NEW HARDY SHRUBS. — AMYGDALOPSIS. — HYDRANGEA. —
EXOCHORDA. — NEW LILACS. — RHODOTYPUS.— RAPHEO-
LEPIS — MAGNOLIA. — SPIREA. — NEW HARDY ROSES. —
AMPELOPSIS. — LONICERA. — CLEMATIS.

'Neath cloistered boughs each floral bell that swingeth,

And tolls its perfume on the passing air,
Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth
A call to prayer.

HITS sung Horace Smith, in
years gone by, in one of the

sweetest floral poems which the
English language has produced.
— a verse which speaks to the heart, where its measured
cadences flow in sympathy with the uprising love of
Nature which springs unbidden, and sends forth its music
to gladden many a rugged path of life.

The love of flowers is universal : it is an old melody,

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8 INTRODUCTION.

which, first attuned, in earliest time, in the golden age of
legendary lore, has come down to us, growing more mellow
and sweeter as it chimed through the centuries, and now,
as then, echoed, with a music akin to that of heaven, in
the human heart.

And this floral music has not been without its deep and
lasting influence : little may we know of the countless
paths of life which it has made brighter, and which have,
long ages since, ended beneath a grassy, flower-sprinkled
grave ; but we see it breathing over us from the acanthus
leaves of the Corinthian capital, sounding from the silence
of mediaeval marble, and echoing, again and again, in
the rich strains of deathless poesy. It is one of the
links binding the present to the past, joining us in sym-
pathy with those who lived long ago ; and while we
gather the rose, the lily, or the violet, we but renew a
pledge with the olden time, and our heart beats in sym-
pathy with the universal heart-beat of the human race
for centuries.

What volumes might be written on the history, the
legends, the poetry of flowers ! Yet, dear reader, pleasant,
and profitable withal, as such reading might be, ours is a
homelier purpose. We glean not the legends of the past,

INTRODUCTION. 9

but offer you what may give promise for the future ; and
believing this love of flowers to be a good, an almost holy
feeling, it is our wish to minister to its development.

It has been said that no botanist was ever an infidel ;
may we not also say that no true lover of flowers can be a
bad man ?

There is a secret influence arising from these bright
gems of nature, which imperceptibly makes one holier and
purer.

And for this let the love of flowers be encouraged.
Develop it in the mind of a child. Let him grow up sur-
rounded by flowers, and be assured that, in the garden of
the heart, the blossoms will unfold, and golden fruit ripen
in after years.

We have said that the love of flowers is universal : we
see them alike in the dwellings of the rich and the poor ;
in the workman's shop, in the window of the busy factory,
peeping into the poor man's window, and trellised round
the abode of the rich.

Yet with all this love for flowers, there is very little
knowledge of culture.

A plant is a living being ; it drinks and breathes ; it is
sensitive as the most delicate constitution to changes of

10

INTRODUCTION.

temperature, and extremes of cold and heat; its tissues
are as delicate as any in nature ; it has wants, which must
be attended to as they arise, and neglect is sure to result
in disease or death. There are two extremes in plant cul-
ture, as usually pursued : the plants are either starved to
death or overfed ; the result is the same, whether caused
by neglect or kindness.

We have often heard wonder expressed at the beauty of
some plant grown in the poor man's parlor — a beauty
which those of his wealthy neighbor do not attain. The
reason is simple : in the one case, the wants are well pro-
vided for ; in the other, they are neglected or over supplied.

And here we touch the object of this little book, which
is to tell, in as few and simple words as possible, what
these wants are, and how they may best be attended to.

A plant, or a stand of flowers, is a constant source of
pleasure in a room ; it is a spring of sunshine, and its
silent influence makes all the household more cheerful
and better.

We would have flowers in every house, for their sunny
light, for their cheerful teaching, for their insensibly enno-
bling influence.

' ' But they are so much trouble ! " exclaims one. Granted,

INTRODUCTION. 11

dear madam. But has your experience thus far in life
failed to teach you that all the good things of God come
but from our own exertions ? Are they not the dearer to
us because we have labored to bring them home ?

Yet again I touch my theme : I would teach you how
to have the finest flowers with the least trouble.

" But flowers in a room are so unhealthy !" exclaims the
nervously sensitive.

By no means. " Do they not exhale poisonous gases ? "
But slightly ; and never can the few plants you would have
produce enough to be hurtful.

The smallest lamp burning in your bedroom will poison
the air, by abstracting its oxygen, more than a whole bay
window full of plants.

There are, however, two other considerations which
should not be overlooked — the effect of powerful perfumes
from flowers, which, being, in some cases, such as tube-
roses, many orchids, &c., given off very powerfully by
night, may cause headache by impregnating the air ; and
the dampness, which is exhaled from plants in pots.

What, however, can be easier than the remedy, in the
former case ? Simply remove the blooming plants from the
room at night.

12 INTRODUCTION.

And in the latter, the dampness will hardly be percep-
tible from any number of pots one would be likely to have
in a single room.

And yet again we propose to tell how even this may be
avoided, by the growth of plants in the Wardian case — •
an experiment at once beautiful and interesting.

We have said that plants breathed and drank ; and so,
as living beings, they have many different modifications of
the same organization. What is nourishment and life to
some is poison and death to others. Who has not been
seized, when entering some well-stocked green-house, with
the desire to carry home some of the floral treasures ? and
who has not been perplexed what to choose?

And with reason : some plants will flourish with window
culture ; others droop and die. Our subject, again : it is
to tell you what to choose that we have taken our pen.

Your neighbor, the florist, grows tuberoses to perfection ;
yours are profuse in leaves, but never bloom : we will tell
you the secret of culture.

He has violets all winter, and you sigh for a green-
house : it is not necessary ; he does not grow his violets in
the green-house ; you may have them, as well as he.

And once again : admire as we will and must the exotic

INTRODUCTION. 13

beauties of our gardens and green-houses, there are floral
treasures few have dreamed of. The road sides, the fields,
the meadows, the river side, the woods, are teeming with
them — delicate flowers, graceful grasses, filmy ferns, ra-
diant lichens, and lovely mosses.

Have you never gathered these ? Then let us take you
by the hand on some sunny day in early June, and lead you
with us. Sit with us on the lap of Nature, and cull her
precious but ever-renewed store, and you will find a new
and unimagined pleasure, a joy as free as God's own sun
and air, the child of sunlight and vernal breezes.

Did you ever think of the difference in meaning between
the two verbs, to live and to exist f Did you ever think
how few people live, compared with those who exist ? Did
you ever think there may be a blindness far worse than
loss of vision — a blindness of the spirit's eye to the beauty
which the hand of a bountiful Creator has so lavishly
spread around us ? And again for this I write ; to tell you
of that beauty, to open the eye to it ; not to tell you where
to find it, for it is every where on this broad earth ; but, by
pointing out its most striking features, to gradually lead
you to see it all around.

And from this contemplation of Nature's beauty there

14

INTRODUCTION.

is but the uplifting of the eye to the footstool of the
Creator.

As we began, so let us end, in the soulful poem, —

" Were I in churchless solitudes remaining,

Far from all voice of teachers and divines,
My soul would find, in flowers of God's ordaining,
Priests, sermons, shrines."

GLEN KIDGE, April, 1863.

CHAPTER I.

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The Stove. — The Hot-house. — The Green-house. — The Conservatory.

— The Pit. — " Span-roofed " and " Lean-to " Houses. — Exposure. —
Construction and Materials. — Pitch of Roof and Cost. — Interior Ar-
rangements. — Heating. — " Lean-to " House. — Interior Arrangement. —
A Pit. — Proper Heating Apparatus. — The Brick Stove. — The Water
Boiler. — Shutters. — A Cheap Green-house. — Its Construction and Cost.

— Ventilation. — The Parlor Conservatory. — Heating. — Interior Ar-

(15)

16

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

rangements. — Stocking the Green-house. — Mistakes of Overstocking.
Neglected Plants. — Symmetrical Growth. — Camellias. — Daphnes.
Azaleas.— Acacias.— Fuchsias. — Climbers. — Miscellaneous Plants.
One Hundred Choice Plants.

1 OW shall I build a Green-house ?
is the question that arises in
the mind of the amateur,
when the happy time arrives
which permits him to indulge
the dream of many years. Straightway
he applies to an architect, or consults
some book on horticultural buildings :
the result is a glass structure, which
fulfils all architectural requirements,
is in good taste and of elegant appearance, and which
lacks but one thing — adaptation to its purpose; that is,
the healthy growing of plants.

Now, why is this failure? Simply because the rules
governing the growth of plants under glass were not
followed; we must adapt our houses to the plants, and
not expect the plants to conform to the houses. As a
general rule, in building a green-house, avoid " cheap
buildings," for, be assured, they will become dear enough

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 17

in the end. Use only the best materials, and these of
the most durable kind. Remember that the alternations
of temperature, and the constant moisture, speedily affect
the best timber, and that poor material is sure to be soon
rendered useless by dampness and decay.

But, as many are not able to build expensive structures,
we propose to give a number of plans for buildings, of
various cost.

Let us first, however, thoroughly understand the sub-
ject, and find out what we need.

There are many glass structures, all indiscriminately
called " green-houses." In common parlance, any glass
house for the growth of plants is a green-house ; but, hor-
ticulturally, there are different names for structures of
different forms, and adapted for different purposes. What,
then, is the difference between a hot-house and a stove ?
a green-house and a hot-house ? a conservatory and a
green-house ?

A Stove is a plant house, constructed with reference to
obtaining a great degree of heat, where the temperature
should never fall below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, and
may rise even to one hundred and twenty degrees. The
atmosphere is kept moist by constant evaporation of water,
2*

18 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

and external air, when admitted, is tempered by passing
over heated surfaces, lest the tender plant receive a chill.
In this building are grown plants natives of the equator,
and the East Indian orchids. It is often arranged so as to
afford bottom heat, without which many of these plants do
not succeed.

The term Hot-house, properly speaking, is synonymous
with stove : it "is, however, used to designate any building
in which artificial heat is used ; a hot-house, or stove, being
a house in which such a high temperature is maintained.

A Green-house is a glass structure, where the tempera-
ture ranges from forty to seventy degrees, -and is calculated
for the growth of those plants which will not bear the cold
of our winters without injury. The term is, however,
improperly and indiscriminately applied to any glass struc-
ture, either with or without fire heat.

The term " conservatory" is used properly to designate a
show house, where the temperature ranges from forty to
sixty degrees, and into which plants are removed, when
coming into bloom, from the other houses. It is improperly
applied, however, to any glass structure in which plants
and flowers are grown.

The glass structures connected with parlors are also

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 19

called conservatories, and this signification of the word is
generally accepted.

A Pit is a structure below the surface of the ground,
generally excavated six to eight feet, and covered with a
glass roof. From such a structure the frost is excluded
with little expense, and a great heat may be maintained.
It is usually a cheap building, used for propagation, grow-
ing roses, and forcing vegetables.

The glass structure which will be in general request is
the green-house, which is adapted for the growth of most of
our flowering plants. The same structure may be con-
verted into a stove by merely increasing the power of the
heating apparatus.

A green house may be
"span-roofed" (Fig. 1),

or " lean-to " (Fig. 2), FlG. 2. FIG. i.

that is, with both sides

of the roof of glass, or with a back wall of brick, stone,
or wood, the roof and front being glass.

The former is better for the symmetrical and healthy
growth of the plants, but requires powerful furnaces to
maintain sufficient heat ; the latter is more economical,
both in structure and heating, and is sufficient to grow
most of our ordinary " green-house plants."

20 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

A span-roofed house should run north and south, so as to
receive the greatest possible amount of sun in the winter ;
or, if this is impossible, it will be necessary to provide
close shutters for all the northern exposure.

A "lean-to" house should run east and west, thus facing
the south.

Now, having selected our site, which should be sheltered
from the north as much as possible, let us mark out a
space, say forty feet long and twelve feet wide ; around the
outside of this excavate a trench, from two to four feet in
depth, according to the nature of the soil (a damp, clayey
soil requiring more depth than one of light, sandy consist-
ency, the object being to get below the reach of the frost),
and about one foot or more in width. This done, fill the
trench to within a foot of the top with stones ; on these
build a eight-inch wall of brick or stone, laid in hydraulic
cement, to the height of one foot above the surface level ;
on this lay a heavy wooden sill, which should be of sea-
soned pine, which bears exposure better than other woods.

Now for the carpenter work. You will have three feet
of wood work, upright, in front, all round, both sides ; you
will need two lights, from eaves to cap, on each side, each
six feet long and three to four feet wide. That would give

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 21

you ten lights, of four feet in width, on each side, for your
house of forty feet. But as three feet gives us a more
manageable light, it will be better to have one or two more,
and make them of that width. The upper lights, on both
sides, should slide or swing so as to afford easy ventilation ;
the lower should be stationary. The upright windows of
the side should swing out, being hinged at the top ; the
ends of the house should be permanently glazed, with a
door in one, or, if desirable, in each end.

The pitch of the roof should be forty-five degrees. Now,
a house of this description could be built for about ten
dollars per running foot. The glazing, of good serviceable
glass, is included in this estimate, as well as hinges, ropes,
and pulleys. The interior arrangement must vary according
to the taste and means of the owner.

If it is desired to make it a winter garden, a broad path
should be laid, in gravel or cement, all round, at a distance
of about two feet from the side. The centre should be a
bed of rich, prepared soil, in which large plants, such as
acacias, and abutilons, should be planted. All around
the side, and even with the bottom of the glass, a shelf
should be built, about two feet wide, to be filled with
flowering plants, in pots. Roses and other climbers
should be trained up the rafters.

22

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The heating apparatus should run under the shelf along
the sides, and may be hot water, or, what is the simplest,
though perhaps the most expensive, from the waste of heat,
the old brick flue.

A house of this kind would present somewhat this
appearance.

Now, if a span-roofed house is too expensive, or we wish
something simpler, let us see how easy it is to build a
"lean-to" on the same plan.

We have only to take one half of the span roof. Let
us build our back wall of brick, good nine-inch work, with
a suitable cap ; and with a coat of paint given now and
then, our green-house will last, without repairing, for many
years.

A " lean-to " house, built after this plan, would present
somewhat the appearance of Figure A.

The cost would not be far from five hundred dollars.

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

23

This might be much reduced by making the back wall of
wood, instead of brick, and sheathing it inside ; but it
would not be so warm, and in the end would be more
expensive, as it would, after a few years, require constant
repairs.

FIG. A.

Most of the houses of florists who raise flowers for
the market are not properly green-houses, but pits ; that
is, they are excavated from two to four feet below
the surface of the ground, and the roof laid on very low,
so that a great saving of heat is effected. The dampness
is congenial to the plants, which often thrive wonderfully ;
but these structures, being cheaply built, soon fall to
pieces. As a general rule, in all horticultural structures,
every part which is to come near, or in contact with, the
ground, should be of stone or brick ; and, carrying this
principle still farther, the less wood work we have, the
better.

24 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY,

Could it be afforded at a reasonable price, it would be
better to have the rafters of iron, as has been done in some
cases.

The interior of the house may be arranged in two ways,
if a staging is required ; the first, and, to our mind, the
preferable arrangement, is, to build side shelves, as above
described, and to run a long, flat table through the middle
of the house, on which to place the plants, in pots. In a
stove, this table is made a box, about a foot deep, which
is filled with moss, into which the plants are plunged, to
the rims of the pots ; the hot water pipes are carried under,
or through, this box, the moss is kept constantly damp,
and thus a moist bottom heat is obtained, most congenial
to the growth of the plants.

The second mode is by a stage of ascending shelves,
conforming to the roof of the house, a flat platform on top,
for larger plants, the shelves again descending on the other
side. By this mode, a great number of plants may be
accommodated in a small house. The former mode is to be
adopted where beautiful plants are desired ; the latter,
where quantity is the object, rather than quality.

In a lean-to house, unless it is very wide, the latter is
the only method to be adopted ; and if care is used not to

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

25

crowd the plants, and the shelves are made wide enough,
and the plants are frequently turned, to prevent them from
growing one-sided, very creditable specimen plants may be
produced. The accompanying sketch may serve to illus-
trate this mode of interior arrangement.

A small stove, or forcing
house, is usually an adjunct
to a conservatory ; in this the
plants are brought forward,
and forced into bloom, and
then brought into the conser-
vatory, where, in the cooler
air, they will remain in per-
fection a long time. It is also very useful for forcing straw-
berries, and cucumbers, or early vegetables. All parts
should be of masonry, and the large bed raised in the
middle should have a hollow air chamber underneath,
through which the hot-air pipes should pass, and should be
built up of brick. The following sketch will give an idea
of a pit of this kind.

The cost would vary very much with the size, and the
materials used, but the best could be built for about ten
dollars per running foot.
3

26

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The heating apparatus may vary at the caprice of the
owner ; as these pits waste but little heat, a common brick
stove will answer every purpose, and consumes but
little fuel.

This mode of heating is used by Mr. Rivers in all his
pits and green-houses, and is thus described : —

The stove is a small mass of brick work, about two
feet square and three feet high ; or it may be larger, if
great heat is required, the front looking thus : —

On opening the cast iron door, you see a
small chamber about twelve inches square,
with a grate at the bottom, on which the fire
is made ; the other door, ?>, opens to an ash
pit, of the same size, or perhaps deeper,
below the fire.

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 27

In this ash-pit door there is a small hole, to admit air
needful for combustion. This stove is on the principle of
the air-tight stove, and consumes but little fuel, a small
hod full keeping the fire for twenty-four hours.

The fire is surrounded by two thicknesses of brick, the
inner one fire brick ; thus the heat given out is gradual,
and the plants are not injured, as is often the case with
our iron stoves. There is, of course, a small flue, running
back into a chimney, to carry off the smoke. The common
covering of this stove is a thick cast iron plate, c.

If, however, a higher and more uniform temperature is
required, an iron boiler may be added to the stove. This
is cast in one piece ; the pipes are of wrought iron, and
screw on. It should be set directly over the fire chamber,
so that its bottom will be on a line with the top of the
door, a, and its top is covered by the iron plate, c. As the
water in this boiler becomes heated, it rises and flows
through the pipe, e, which is run to one end, or quite round
the house, and returning, enters the boiler again near its
bottom, y, as shown in the figure.

As the boiler is tight, the water
of course makes the circuit of the
whole pipe, and keeps up a constant circulation.

28 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

In fact, the whole pipe, which rises but a few inches in
its course, may be considered a boiler, the only opening to
which is at the highest point of the pipe, e, that is, if the
pipes run around the houso at the end farthest from the
boiler, where there is an opening with a small reservoir for
supplying it with water. This is the simplest form of hot-
water heating ; it may be varied in size to any extent, and
will heat any pit sufficiently.

In heating green-houses, a great saving of fuel is effected
by the use of wooden shutters fitted to all exposed portions
of the range of glass. They may be made of rough
boards, and should, while heavy enough to keep their
place by their own weight, be of manageable size. They
should be put on as soon as the sun leaves the house, and
also on windy days and nights ; some days in winter they
should not be removed at all. The most difficult nights to
keep a green-house warm are those when the mercury
shows from twenty to thirty degrees of frost, with a violent
wind sweeping over the house. The wind carries off the
heat very rapidly, and it is easier to maintain a high tem-
perature with the mercury twenty degrees below zero, and
no wind, than in a windy night, when the thermometer
only shows twenty degrees of frost.

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 29

But, says my impatient reader, I cannot build span*
roofed houses or pits at a cost of three to four hundred
dollars; yet flowers are to me a necessity — I must have
them. My carpenter has frightened me with estimates;
tell me how to build a cheap house.

Attention, then : Your house must be about twenty-five
feet long by twelve feet wide ; smaller if you choose, but
you will find this will give you little enough room. Pro-
cure ten stout cedar posts, the larger the better, each about
eleven feet long. Set them in a line, two and one half feet
apart, on the northerly line of the space marked out for
your house, having previously charred them half an inch
deep for at least three feet at the lower end. Set them
three feet deep, and ram them well ; they are the back wall
of your house. Opposite each of these, and twelve feet
from it, set ten cedar posts, six feet long, equally stout,
charred, and set three feet deep. You have now the out-
line of the house, and the inclination which will give the
proper pitch to your roof.

Board up your back wall with good pine boards, charred
where they come in contact with the ground ; also the
three feet of front between the ground and the eaves (or,
if stone is plenty, it is far better to lay up a wall in

30

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

.cement) ; shingle the back outside, and lathe and plaster,
or rather back-plaster, as it is called, within. If your
front is board, ' clapboards -look better than shingles, and
cost but little more. Board up and shingle the ends,
leaving one or more doors, as may be desired. Sink a
walk, two feet wide, through the middle of the length of
the whole house, deep enough to give plenty of head room ;
board, stone, or brick up the sides. Your structure, thus
far, is very inexpensive. Now for the rafters and glass
roof. It is not, for our purpose, necessary to have sliding
sashes, nicely fitted and framed, or grooved rafters ; these
are expensive. The roof must be one entire piece. But
do you dispense with ventilation ? By no means. This
would be a fatal neglect, in our climate, with such a power-
ful summer sun.

It is easily provided for by having boards, x and y, both

front and rear, either at
intervals or along the
whole line, as may be
needful. These are hung
on hinges, so as to open
outwards, and permit a
current of air to pass

3ft.

s it.

2ft.

thr6ugh the whole breadth of the house,

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 31

To construct the roof, form a " plate " along the posts,
front and back ; to this nail the rafters, running from post
to post. Into these rafters fit lighter pieces of wood, run-
ning at right angles with the rafters the whole length of the
house, letting the top be flush with the top of the rafter,
thus, R R, being the rafters, C C being the cross-pieces.

Then, parallel with the rafters, along the whole length
of the house, nail other lighter strips to the cross-pieces,
C C, securing them at eaves and top to the plate.

These strips should be grooved like a common sash bar,
and laid upon the roof just far enough apart to receive the
glass. Glaze with common clear glass. Paint all with
fire-proof paint, and you have a green-house sufficient for
all purposes, at a cost of about six dollars per foot. This
cost may be indefinitely increased by using finer materials ;
our estimate is for rough boards and common glass. Heat
by a common stove, as above described, or by a brick flue.
For this latter, however, a small cellar near one end, cov-

32 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

ered with a bulk-head door, will be necessary for the
furnace ; and also a shed for storing coal, and for a potting
room. This may be built on behind at a trifling cost.

It is also advisable to have a gutter along the eaves, to
catch the water from the roof. This should communicata
with a large hogshead sunk in the ground inside, and thus
a supply of water, of the proper temperature, is always
at hand.

A structure of this sort will answer equally well for a
cold grapery, or for a peach house, in which cases the
plastering may be dispensed with, and the house may be
battened instead of shingled, by which the cost would be
somewhat reduced.

A conservatory, communicating with the parlor, is a
beautiful addition to a house, and is easily constructed.
We live in the age of bow windows, and by lengthening
one of these our conservatory is built. Let the sides and
end be of glass ; the sides may be stationary or sliding
windows ; the end, a door opening upon the lawn or garden
walk. The roof should have some sliding sashes for ven-
tilation. The width must be that of the bay window;
the length may be according to the taste of the owner, but,
to look well, should be proportioned to the width. It

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 33

should communicate with the parlor by glass doors, in order
to prevent the dampness from entering the house. Heating
should be done by a small stove, with hot-water boiler
fitted as above described, the pipes to be carried round the
house, and hidden by shelves for plants.

The interior arrangements must vary with the taste of
the owner. Climbers, such as roses, bignonias, and passion
flowers, should be planted in large tubs, or in sunken brick
pits, filled with prepared soil.

The stove may be hidden by a staging, or by large
plants standing around it ; or, if desired and convenient,
the heating apparatus might be in the house cellar, and
only the pipes, which could be hidden, enter the con-
servatory.

This conservatory may run south, east, or west ; but in
any case, \vooden shutters, to be put up on cold and windy
nights, should be provided for the sides. Double windows
may be used, but the plants do not thrive so well as with
single glass.

And now, having built our green-house, we must stock it.

Do not, however, be in haste ; the green-house will fill
up fast enough. Let us not run into the error of almost
all amateurs, and overstock; Jet our aim be quality x rot

34 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

quantity ; and, to enable us to select, let us look at other
green-houses," and gain from the experience of others.
Let us visit any green-house in our neighborhood, and care-
fully examine the collection : in how many shall we find a
dozen really beautiful specimen plants ? Here and there,
now and then, a fine, well-bushed, or trained, well-propor-
tioned plant may be seen ; but the mass are tall, long-
drawn, ungainly, ugly plants, which, aside from their com-
panions, possess no beauty or symmetry. How, then, do
they appear so well? By grouping; each hides the defects
of each, and a stage-full of these ugly, ill-grown plants
may often present a fine appearance. But this is not the
true end to be gained in floriculture ; in this way we can
never approximate to perfection ; the evil grows year
by year.

Of what plants are the collections composed? Plants
from every region of the globe, all huddled together in a
space not large enough generally to grow those of one
country to perfection. A small house, some sixty feet long,
will be found to contain a collection of camellias, which
flower and grow best in a temperature not above sixty
degrees ; ericas, which require about fifty degrees of heat ;
azaleas, which will bear any low, dry temperature ; Cape

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 35

plants, which need a different treatment from any of the
above ; acacias, oranges, geraniums, pelargoniums, tro-
pseolums, fuchsias, begonias, cyclamen, ixias, sparaxis,
oxalis, amaryllis, roses, and hundreds of other plants,
dissimilar in habits and nature, all requiring a different
treatment, each needing its peculiar atmosphere and tem-
perature ; and often a few sickly orchids, or other stove
plants, with yellow leaves and weak aspect, from want of
proper heat, thrust in to fill up the spaces between the
larger pots : all these are crowded into one small house.
Is it strange that none ever reach perfection ? that all are
more or less diseased ? that the flowers are poor, and the
plants sickly ? Can we expect it to be otherwise ?

None will deny the beauty of a specimen plant, let the
kind be what it may ; and its superiority over an ill-grown
plant, let the latter be ever so rare in variety. The public
eye is attracted by symmetrical beauty, and not by novelty
in variety. To the common observer a well-grown speci-
men of the almost forgotten fuchsia globosa is far more
beautiful than some new and rare plant, which presents no
symmetry of proportion.

We would by no means discourage the taste for new
plants ; it is a healthy tendency, but may be carried too far.

36 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

If we neglect all our old favorites, or give up well-grown,
valuable plants for others of unproved merit, simply because
the latter are new, the passion for novelties becomes a dis-
ease, and produces bad effects in practice. There is in this,
as in all other things, a happy medium, which alone is the
safe course : either extreme will lead us into error.

The passion for novelties, or any injurious effects arising
therefrom, one 'would naturally suppose would be confined
to amateurs, simply because — if for no other reason — it
can only be indulged in by those whose pecuniary means
are ample.

But this is not the case : we find our gardeners exerting
themselves to meet any demand for new, rare, and expen-
sive plants, to the neglect of our old and well-tried
favorites.

All of us can call to mind some flowers, which, once
popular, are now hardly to be found in any collection ; and
yet we are at a loss to give a reason. Let us look at a few
cases.

We all remember a pretty little double-flowering brier,
which goes by the name of " bridal rose ; " it is an ex-
quisite plant, — foliage very delicate, and of a peculiar
living green, covering every branch ; flowers snowy white,

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 37

rose-shaped, with a green centre, and studding the plant ;
habit most favorable for symmetrical culture ; and yet we
may search in vain in our green-houses for this plant, com-
bining so many desirable qualities : it is only to be found
grown in old pitchers, and in the windows of the poorer
classes, or in some private conservatory, where its beauties
are appreciated. Another instance : Can a plant more
ornamental at every season than the achsenia malvaviscus
be found ? All the year it is studded with its scarlet blos-
soms and ornamental white berries ; these, contrasted with
the green leaves, produce a charming effect ; and yet a few
years since it was impossible to procure a plant. Latterly
it has appeared in some gardeners' catalogues ; but whether
from any demand or an appreciation of its merits it is diffi-
cult to say. The writer never saw but one fine specimen of
this plant, and that was a picture of beauty, over four feet
in height, well bushed, covered with healthy foliage, and
the end of each branch crowned with coral flowers, while
the berries gemmed the whole plant, white, blush, and red.
Such a plant is worth a green-house full of the trash gen-
erally cultivated ; and all this had been done by careful
attention in a parlor, the plant never having been carried to
a green-house : if this can be done in house-culture, what
4

38 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

ought we to expect from those who have every facility for
growing plants to advantage ?

Instances of this kind might be multiplied, but these
must suffice. What has caused this neglect, we are at a
loss to say. And another question arises : Can a remedy be
found ? We think it can. Let our cultivators, our garden-
ers, our amateurs, estimate a plant by its real beauty, value
it for its intrinsic merit, and not by the factitious standards
of novelty, or dollars and cents. Suppose you have a green-
house full of rare plants, but all poor, ill-grown specimens,
costly, but not beautiful ; your neighbor has a dozen fine
specimen plants, in which Nature, assisted by all the
appliances of art and care, has developed a perfection of
form, a vigor of growth and foliage, a profusion of flower ;
let these all be common, well-known plants — fuchsias,
azaleas, even verbenas, or other soft-wooded plants : which
has approached nearer the true end of floriculture, regard-
ing it either as a pleasure or as a science ? Surely he who
develops to the best advantage the powers of Nature. But
we have taken an extreme case ; there may be as great
beauty, and often is, in the new plants as in the old.
Some of the introductions of the last few years possess beau-
ties of which a short time since we never dreamed. Another

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 39

question : Are we any nearer improvement ? These plants
are the fashion of to-day, and we fully appreciate their
beauty ; but to-morrow some new taste will develop, and
before our new plants, in the ordinary course of nature,
have time to grow into good-sized specimens, they are out
of date, and are discarded or neglected as old-fashioned.
This may seem a severe view, a harsh statement of facts,
but it is literally true.

If we look at plants with the eye of the botanist, the
simplest weed becomes invested with the highest interest ;
and to the botanist the rarer and newer plants are objects
of special attention ; but his task, or rather pleasure, differs
from that of the florist : the botanist would turn away from
the most beautiful double flower ever produced, regarding it
as a monstrosity. But we are not writing for botanists, —
with us they are few and far between, — but for gardeners,
amateurs, and florists, who esteem a plant rather for its
flower, foliage, growth, and other obvious beauties, than for
its structural adaptations, be they ever so curious and
beautiful.

If our amateurs will grow fewer plants, and grow these
few well, — if they will discard the mass of rubbish (for it is
nothing else) which cumbers the stages of their green-houses,

40 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

and grow their plants with plenty of room, light, and air,
the evil will be remedied.

They profess to grow plants for their beauty, not from
any profit to be derived from them ; and yet with this their
avowed object, their green-houses seldom present a more
respectable appearance than thjse of gardeners who profess
nothing.

But it may be said, amateurs need the flowers for their
own use, and therefore must grow plants to produce the
most bloom. If this is so, let them grow their flowers for
cutting in some green-house used for nothing else, and use
their conservatories and fine plant-houses for specimen
plants.

But there is a fundamental error underlying all this
theory ; a poorly grown plant does not produce more flowers
than one grown with care as a specimen ; the former may
be sooner drawn into bloom, but the latter affords the
greatest profusion.

A constant cutting of the flowers will ruin a specimen
plant, unless great care is taken ; and this, together with
the time taken to perfect the specimen, is another reason

why gardeners will not grow specimens.

•
But the plant is the object of attraction as much as the

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY, 41

flower ; without it the flowers are not shown to the best
advantage, and the perfection of beauty is attained when a
perfectly symmetrical plant is seen, healthy in foliage, free
from disease, and gemmed with a profusion of bud and
blossom.

Let us consider a few of the plants which, now neglected,
would, as specimens, be pictures of beauty.

And first, the CAMELLIA. This plant is by nature of the
most symmetrical form, and with little care can be perfectly
grown. Contrary to the general opinion, there is no plant
which bears pruning better than the Camellia. Let the
branches be well pruned out, so as not to interfere ; the
plants be stocky and well covered with foliage ; the roots
allowed room enough, and the soil kept sweet and rich ;
and the specimen is obtained. The common care of remov-
ing all but two flower-buds^ or even one, from each shoot,
with other minor cares, must not be neglected ; but, above
all, do not crowd your plants ; let them have light and air
on every side, above and below, and keep an even, low
temperature : follow this plan, and you will no longer com-
plain of weak plants, long-drawn, tall specimens with yel-
low leaves and dropping buds ; and you will be surprised at
the health and vigor of your plants. From one plant thus
4*

42 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

cared for, you will obtain more bloom than from a dozen
camellias as commonly grown.

The DAPHNE — a lovely, always grown, but always neg-
lected flower — will make a lovely specimen. Do not spare
the knife, for its tendency is to long, leafless branches.
You must also begin with a young plant, for to reclaim an
old specimen is well nigh hopeless.

In other chapters we propose to give rules for growing
specimen plants ; in this connection we only mention those
peculiarly adapted for green-house culture.

The beauty of AZALEAS as specimens cannot be too
highly praised ; no green-house should be without them ;
yet a fine specimen is the work of years.

ACACIAS are only seen to advantage planted out in the
green-house borders ; being by nature trees, they never
make fine specimens in pot culture.

ACH^ENIA MALVATISCTJS, as before observed, makes a
lovely specimen, and bears pruning well.

FUCHSIAS of all kinds show to great advantage, properly
grown, — except, perhaps, the white corolla varieties, which
are of too weak a habit to make large plants.

ORANGES bear pruning well, and grow to a large size.

ERICAS. We read of fine specimens, many feet in diam-

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 43

eter and well bushed. Have we ever seen a specimen
erica ?

EPACEIS. The same remarks apply.

KENNEDIAS are all well adapted for specimens. Trained
on balloon trellises and in full bloom, what can be prettier ?

The same may be said of ALLAMANDAS, RHYNCOSPER-
MUM, COMBRETUM, SiEPHANOTUs, and a host of other
climbers.

CHORIZEMA VARIUM also makes a beautiful specimen
trained in this way.

All the soft-wooded climbers are superb objects, grown
on large trellises, if the foliage is in good health.

PELARGONIUMS and GERANIUMS, we all know, make su-
perb specimens ; also VERBENAS, HELIOTROPES, and other
plants of the same nature. HOVE AS, and plants of kindred
nature, are very poor subjects for specimens ; but much may
be effected by care and patience. The Cape bulbs, such as
Ixias, and Sparaxis, are never treated with proper care ;
they are forced into bloom, and then, instead of allowing
the leaves to ripen well, the plants are thrust out of the way,
dried off, and the only wonder is, they ever perfect any
bulbs. As it is, the bulbs decrease in size year by year,
and at last, being too small to bloom, are cast aside as

44 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

worthless. These remarks apply to all green-house bulbs,
except, perhaps, the Cyclamen. We have never seen well
grown pots of Cape bulbs, except in a few instances.

Will not some amateur make the growth of bulbs a
specialty, and show us what can be done in this almost
unexplored region of floriculture ? We should say unex-
plored in this country. In England, much has been done,
and great has been the reward.

ORCHIDS make superb specimens, but the growth is slow,
and the attention needed immense. The various classes of
ferns, mosses, lycopodiums, and other cryptogamous plants,
can be very prettily grown.

The vast class of variegated-leaved plants are pictures of
beauty if properly grown, and well repay any outlay of care
or expense.

Even with our common herbaceous plants, or with annu-
als, a very pretty effect may be produced.

Thus we have shown that the neglect is not caused by
want of subjects upon which to practise.

If we continue to show our green-houses filled with
plants which, by their careless growth and sickly aspect,
are a disgrace to us, the fault is our own.

Let us give our plants the benefit of our increased knowl-

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 45

edge, — give them air, light, and room to develop their
beauties — and we shall soon see that they will not be slow
to avail themselves of the liberty. It will then be our care
to repress undue luxuriance, or to train into proper shape
the wandering branches.

Above all, feed your plants well ; they cannot thrive in a
poor soil, or draw nourishment from the earth if you do not
supply it. Again, adapt the soil to the wants, to the
nature of the plant ; give sand, peat, or leaf-mould, as
the plant requires. Give water as the habits of the plant
require, and not promiscuously.

These may seem little matters, but they are vital to the
plant, and a want of attention to them is sure to result in
vexation and disappointment.

From these hints it will be easy for the most inexperi-
enced to choose what to grow ; yet another word of caution
may not be misplaced : —

In a green-house, grow only green-house plants — in a
stove, only stove plants : do not mix the two, or disap-
pointment will be the result.

The following list will be found useful in choosing plants
for the green-house. The culture of each will be given in
succeeding chapters, with the best varieties.

46

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Plants for a Green-House tiventy-five feet long.

12 Camellia Japonica,
4 Orange Trees,
1 Mandarin Orange,

1 Lemon,

6 Daphne Odorata,

2 « « Rubra,
4 Diosma Odorata,

1 " Capitata,

4 Erica Caffra Alba (Heath),

4 Erica Caffra Rubra (Heath),

1 Cytisus Racemosa (Broom),
6 Heliotropes, in sorts,

2 Cestrum Aurantiacum,
2 Dwarf Acacias,

1 Aloysia Citriodora (Lemon

Verbena),
1 Burchellia Capensis,

1 Coronella Olauca,

2 Stevia,

2 Eupatorium Elegans,
2 Abutilon,
2 Chorizema,

1 Fabiana Imbricata,
Jasminum Odoratissimum and

Multiflorum, (Yellow and
White Jasmine,)

2 Kennedias,

10 Azalea Indica,
6 Fuchsias,

1 Justicia Carnea,

2 Correas,

1 Linum Trigynum,

3 Mahernias,

2 Manettias,
2 Myrtles,

1 Pittosporum Tobira,

1 Sparmannia Africana,

2 Passiflora (for rafters),
1 Olea Fragrans,

1 Tecoma Jasminoides (for

rafter),

1 Thea Viridis (Green Tea),
1 Veronica Andersonii, and

Roses.

Add to these a few Verbenas, Cupheas, Salvias, Lobelias,
Tropaeolum, Calceolarias, Geraniums, and Cinerarias, all
of which soft-wooded plants can be raised from seeds or
cuttings, and the green-house will be full enough if the
plants are of any size.

THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

47

We have in this place purposely omitted to mention
the many bulbs which may be grown in the green-house,
preferring to treat of them in another place.

Any of the above plants may be procured at any well-
stocked green-house, and are mostly low priced. The whole
collection, if small plants were chosen, could be furnished
for about seventy-five dollars.

CHAPTER II.

WINDOW GARDENING.

Growth of Plants. — Situation and Exposure. — Heat. — Moisture. — Tem-
perature of Room. — Ventilation. — Washing. — Syringing. — Watering.
— Choice of Pots. — Window Flower Tables. — Window Shelves.—

(48)

WINDOW GARDENING.

49

Potting. _ Manuring. — Soil. — Peat. — Loam — Sand. — Leaf Mould. —
— Manure. — Proportions of Each. — Insects. — Green Fly. — Mealy
Bug. — Scale. — Red Spider. — Pruning.

0 grow plants to perfection in a room
is not an easy thing. To insure any
degree of success, a careful and con-
stant attention to details is necessary.
These details are all little things in

themselves ; they seem almost trivial ; but
their observance is imperative, if we would
have our plants in healthy foliage and profuse
bloom. It is by the neglect of all, or some of
these, that plants grown in rooms usually present
such a diseased, unhealthy appearance.

Any one of us can call to mind some friend, who, as we
say, is always successful with flowers ; has blossoms when
no one else can, and whose plants are models of health and
beauty. We laughingly say, the flowers are his friends ;
he knows them, and they bloom for him ; and so it is, in
fact ; he knows their peculiarities, attends to their wants,
feeds them properly, affords the requisite light and air. Is
it then a wonder that for him the grateful flowers put on
5

50 WINDOW GARDENING.

their richest dress of green, and reach out their perfumed
blossoms ?

But before we give rules for growing window plants, let
us look at these little things, which may come under the
head of general instructions. And, first, the

SITUATION.

We have decided to grow window plants, and we must
now choose our window. Let it, if possible, face the east
or south ; that is, be one which receives the full rays of the
morning sun. If we are unfortunate enough not to have
such a window, choose the one having the most sun ; the
afternoon sun is better than none at all. There are very
few plants which will nourish without sunlight, and, as a
general rule, the more we can obtain the better. If you
have a bay window, looking south, you need ask nothing
better .

HEATING.

If possible, choose a room where the temperature at
night never falls below forty to forty-five degrees. Let this
heat be maintained by an open fire, or by an air-tight
stove, on which a large pan of water should be constantly
evaporating. A furnace is injurious to plants, by reason

WINDOW GARDENING. 51

of its dry heat only ; the little, gas escaping from our best
furnaces is not sufficient to affect plants injuriously. And
while speaking of gas, if possible avoid the use of gas
light in the room ; the unconsumed gas, always given off, is
fatal to delicate plants, and hurtful to the most hardy. If
you must use gas in the room, arrange glass doors to shut
off your plants from the room, or give up window plants,
and confine yourself to growth in Wardian cases. If a
furnace is your only means of heating, provide for sufficient
moisture by constant evaporation. Another objection to a
furnace is, that it keeps the room too warm for a healthy
growth of the plants.

The cause of so many window plants showing long,
white, leafless stalks, with a tuft of leaves on the end, is,
too great heat and too little light. Proportion the two, and
you obtain a short, stocky, healthy growth. In rooms,
this proportion is always unequal. In winter, there are
eight hours of sun to sixteen of darkness; we keep the
plant at a temperature of sixty to seventy degrees all the
twenty-four. In a green-house, on the contrary, the tem-
perature falls to forty degrees at night, rising, by the hea*
of the sun, by day, to a maximum of seventy.

52 WINDOW GARDENING.

VENTILATION.

This must not be neglected; it is as essential to the
health of the plant as to the human organization. The best
method of providing it is to open the top of the window when
the sun's rays are hottest on the plants. The quantity of
air to be given must be proportioned to the outside tem-
perature. In cold, cloudy days, but little, and often none,
should be given. Care must be taken never to allow a
direct stream of cold air to blow upon any plant.

WASHING.

This must be done frequently. A plant breathes like an
animal, and not through one mouth, but thousands. As is
well known, the plant draws up its food from the soil
through the roots, in a liquid form. This food, very much
diluted, must be concentrated, and thus assimilated to the
plant. We have in the leaves of the plant, a most beauti-
ful arrangement to answer this need. They are filled with
" stomata," or breathing pores, which allow exhalation when
moisture is freely supplied, and check it when the supply
falls off. These little mouths are found on both sides of
the leaf in most plants, but usually on the lower side in by
far the greater number. They vary in different plants from

WINDOW GARDENING. 53

several hundred to more than one hundred and fifty thou-
sand to a square inch of leaf. Now we are careful in our
own persons to bathe daily, lest, as we say, the pores of the
skin become obstructed; yet we are willing to allow our
plants to go unwashed for a whole winter, when the pores
are much smaller, more numerous and delicate, than those
of the body. The rule is obvious : wash the leaves of the
plants, both under and upper sides, at least once a week ;
if oftener, the better. Use water moderately warm, and if
the plants become very dirty, a little weak soap-suds is
beneficial. This washing should be carefully done with a
soft sponge or cloth in the case of plants with thick, pol-
ished leaves, such as camellias, oranges, and daphnes,
Where plants have hairy leaves, or the substance is soft,
water is best applied with a small syringe, fitted with a
very fine " rose." To use this, place the plant on its side
in the kitchen sink, syringe it well, turning it from side to
side. Let it stand a few minutes for the water to drain off,
and return it to its place : it will thank you for its bath by
its bright foliage, Never wet the flowers of a plant; water
always injures them ; nor allow drops of water to stand on
any leaves in the sunshine : the^ rays of the sun form a
focus in the drop of water and scorch the leaf. Once a
5*

54 WINDOW GARDENING.

month, at least, wash the stem and branches of all the hard-
wooded plants with a soft sponge dipped in lukewarm
water; this prevents the lodgment of insects, and con-
tributes to the health of the plant.

WATERING

Is one of the most difficult subjects to prescribe by rule,
yet there are some rules of general application.

Let it be always done with a watering-pot with a fine
rose, such as may be procured at any tinman's. The
advantage of this is, it allows the water to fall drop by drop
over the whole surface of the soil, whereas, if a pitcher is
used, the plants are deluged, or holes made 'in the earth by
the stream of water, and the roots not unfrequently dis-
turbed.

Let it be done regularly ; the morning is the best time,
and once a day.

The surface of the soil should never be allowed to become
perfectly dry, nor should it be sodden with moisture. The
^temperature of the water used is of vital importance. It
should neither be cold nor warm, but just the temperature
of the atmosphere of the room. Thus no check, or chill, or
undue excitement is given to the roots, both roots and
branches being equally warm.

WINDOW GARDENING. 55

A good plan is, to set over night a large pan of water
among your flowers, then you will be sure of a sufficiency
of water of the proper temperature for the morning water-
ing. If this is too much trouble, remember in watering, it
is better to have the water too warm than too cold, that is,
of a higher rather than a lower temperature than the roots
and branches. Now as to the quantity of water. No rule
of universal application can be prescribed. What is life to
one class of plants is death to another. The amount of
water necessary to make a calla lily thrive would kill a
cactus or a heath, and yet the drought necessary for the
cactus would be death to the heath.

A good rule, however, is never to allow the soil to
become dusty or muddy, and with drainage in potting the
latter is easily prevented; by regular waterings, the for-
mer. Particulars of treatment for different plants will be
given when treating of each plant.

Never allow water to stand in the saucers of the pots
unless the plants are semi-aquatic.

POTS.

Choose the common flower-pots, selecting those which
are light colored rather than those which are brick red ; the

56 WINDOW GARDENING.

former are soft baked and are more porous ; in these, the
plants thrive better.

Discard all glazed, china, glass, or fancy painted pots ;
they are not porous, and plants seldom thrive in them.
There is nothing neater than the common earthen pot, if
kept clean. If, however, something more ornamental is
desired, choose some of the fancy pots, — and some are very
pretty and artistic in design, — and let them be large
enough to set the common pot inside.

But there is a very pretty way of fitting up a window
which is but little practised ; it is, in fact, making the win-
dow a flower garden. Build from your window into the
room a rounding wooden shelf, say, if the window is
large, three feet in diameter from window to outer edge,
but at any rate proportioned to the size of the window.

V

On this, place a large box, wood, or earthen ware unglazed,
made to conform to the shelf, and in this put your plants,
the taller at the back, the smaller in front, and on each
side a climber to run over the top of the window, on a neat
wire trellis or on strings.

It is desirable to have holes in the bottom of the box to
allow superflous water to escape, and to permit this, the
shelf should be covered with zinc, which is preferable to

WINDOW GARDENING. 57

tin, as it does not rust, and have a low rim all around it,
with a little hole to drain off the superfluous water running
from the boxes. This is a very pretty way of window gar-
dening, but is only to be practised in a very light room ;
for in a room with but one window, the plants would all
grow to the light, and being planted out, they could not be
turned as if in pots. A pretty way to grow low plants,
bulbs, and is to fit a box, say eighteen inches wide, and as
long as the window, into the window, and then place the
taller plants behind in pots. This box could be turned as
occasion required, or as the plants grew towards the light,
or could even be removed from window to window.

POTTING.

But a few words are necessary. Always fill the lower
inch of the pot with broken potsherds to secure drainage.
In filling the soil around the plants, press it in firmly and
establish the plant well. There is no advantage in loose
potting.

In re-potting, pare off as much of the old, sour soil as
possible, being careful not to injure the roots, and place the
ball of the plant in the centre of the new pot, filling in all
around with fresh soil. As a general rule, plants need

58 WINDOW GARDENING.

re-potting whenever the roots begin to curl round the inside
of the pot, or as gardeners say, " touch the pot." This is
easily ascertained by turning the pot down, striking the
rim gently against some object by a quick rap, holding the
ball of earth and the plant on the palm of the other hand.
The plant may thus be taken from the pot and examined,
returned again, settled by a smart stroke of the bottom of
the pot on the table, and will be none the worse for the
inspection. This is also a good way to detect worms in
pots, they generally living near the outside of the ball. The
operation must, however, be quickly done, or the worm will
be too nimble and withdraw into the interior of the ball.

Stirring the surface of the soil is very beneficial, especially
for roses, if the roots are not thereby injured. Top dressing
is also productive of good effects, particularly with old
plants in heavy pots and tubs. It is simply removing the
top soil as far down as the upper roots, and refilling the
pot with fresh, light, rich soil.

MANURING

Is not generally needed in pot plants. A mixture of pow-
dered or small bits of charcoal in the soil adds a deeper lus-
tre to the green of the foliage and brilliancy to the color of

WINDOW GARDENING. 59

the flowers. Bone shavings produce the same effect on
hyacinths.

Liquid manure should be sparingly used, and then very
weak.

If guano, a tea-spoonful to a quart of water applied once
a week.

Liquid stable manure in about the same proportion,
applied as seldom.

SOIL.

In potting window plants rich soil should generally be
used. The different kinds of soil are, —

Peat, which is black earth or decomposed vegetable
fibre, usually taken from meadows or damp woods. If a
mixture of white sand is with it, it becomes more valuable.

Loam, our common garden soil. It may be black or
light brown. The best is obtained by taking the turf of
old pastures and letting it lay till it all crumbles.

Sand, common, or " silver," such as used by glass
makers. It should be free from salt. White beach sand
may be freshened by frequent washings.

Leaf mould, the decomposed leaves, being the top soil in
old woods.

60

WINDOW GARDENING.

Manure, the material of an old hot-bed, well rotted
and entirely decomposed ; the older the better.

From these five earths all the soil for green-house opera-
tions is compounded.

In treating of each plant hereafter we will give its con-
genial soil.

As a general soil for potting plants, we would say two
parts leaf mould, one part manure, one half part loam, one
half part peat, one part sand.

INSECTS.

The only ones troubling house plants are, the green fly,
the mealy bug, the scale, and the red spider.

Green fly is to be killed by a smoking with tobacco. Put
the plant under a barrel with smoking tobacco ; let it
remain, say fifteen minutes ; then give it a syringing.

Mealy bug is to be searched for and destroyed. Fre-
quent spongings do much to keep down this pest.

Scale is to be treated in the same way. Warm soap-suds
are peculiarly distasteful to the creature.

Red spider, which is seldom found on house plants, is
nourished by a dry, warm atmosphere. Water is certain
death. Keep the foliage syringed and atmosphere moist,
and you will have no red spider.

WINDOW GARDENING.

61

PRUNING

Is but little required. Should a branch grow out of place
or die, it should be neatly cut off ; and a judicious pinching
does much to regulate the shape of a plant. More will be
said on this subject in the chapter on specimen plants. Of
course all dead leaves and old blossoms should be cut off at
once.

'LL teach thec miracles ! Walk on this heath,
And say to the neglected flower, " Look up,
And be thou beautiful!" If thou hast faith,
It will obey thy word.

CHAPTER III.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE CAMELLIA : History. — Culture. — Soil. — Temperature. — Potting.
— Pruning. — Selection of Varieties. ORANGE AND LEMON TREES :
Culture. — Growth. — Blooming. — Varieties. — Seedlings. — Budding
THE DAPHNE : Pruning. — Potting. — Varieties. — Soil. THE AZALEA

(62)

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

63

Description. — Potting1. — Culture. — Pruning. — Varieties. THE HEATH :
History. — Soil. — Drainage. — Watering-. — Hard and Soft Wooded.
— Temperature. — Summer Culture. — Re-potting-. — Insects. — Rooting-
Plants. — Varieties. THE CYCLAMEN: Potting. — Soil. — Growth. —
Seedlings. — Varieties.

|N the selection of our plants, we must be
much influenced by the extent and loca-
tion of our accommodations. Some
plants thrive with less heat and light
than others. As a general rule, choose
only green-house plants, avoiding any
usually catalogued by nurserymen as stove
plants. Discard ferns and lycopodia. With
but few exceptions, these perish in the hot, dry,
dusty air of our rooms. The Wardian case is their proper
place. Remember it is better to grow one plant well than
two badly. Because you have roses, geraniums, and
daphnes, which do well, it is no reason you should also
grow verbenas, fuchsias, and azaleas ; your space is suffi-
cient for the first three only ; then be content, and do not
crowd your plants.

Now let us first give in detail, with their treatment, a
list of plants suitable for window gardening ; then select
those for peculiar exposures.

64 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE CAMELLIA

The camellia is a native of China or Japan, from whence
it was introduced to British gardens about the year 1739.
The name was given in honor of Father Kamel, a Mora-
vian priest, whose name, Latinized, became Camellus.

The plants first introduced were .fairly killed by kind-
ness ; an error not unfrequently repeated in our day with
newly-discovered plants. They were planted in a stove,
where the extreme heat soon dried the leaves and parched
the plant. We find no further mention of the plant till
1792, when the single red variety (Camellia Japonica) was
introduced, and flowered profusely in a common green-
house ; during the next year many plants of this variety
were obtained from China ; next we find mention of the
double red ; soon after, the fringed double white, and many
varieties too numerous to mention. Strange to say, the
single white was not imported till about the year 1820, and
even now it is not common, though a showy and free-
blooming variety.

The camellia, in its native country, is a shrub or small
tree, though Mr. Fortune mentions specimens of the single
red as sometimes exceeding twenty feet in height, with

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 65

trunks of proportionate size. This variety is almost hardy,
and in the Middle States will often endure the winter ;
we have known it to survive even our climate, when well
protected ; all other varieties are more tender, and few will
bear any severe frost without injury. Most of the kinds in
our green-houses are derived from Camellia Japonica, though
other varieties have, we believe, afforded fine seedlings,

CULTURE.

The plants should be grown in light loam, or sandy peat
and loam, say three parts loam, two parts leaf mould, one
part sandy peat ; fill the pots one third full of potsherds,
to secure drainage, which is indispensable ; if the roots of
the plant become sodden, particularly during the season of
rest, the health of the plant is gone, and years of care may
fail to restore its beauty, or remedy the evil caused by a
little carelessness in watering. When in a growing state,
you can hardly give too much water, and much good may
be derived from frequent sprinklings or syringings ; this
operation, however, must never be performed in sunny
weather. One chief care in the culture of camellias is to
keep them perfectly clean ; dust upon the foliage not only
injures the beauty of the plant, but affects its health. The
6*

66 PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

plants are injured by too much heat ; some hold that no
artificial heat should be afforded, unless necessary to keep
off the frost ; but as we wish our camellias to bloom at a
season when there is but little else to ornament the green-
house, it is advisable to force them moderately.

A safe rule is, never to allow the temperature to fall
below forty degrees at night, or rise above sixty-five or
seventy degrees during the day. The plants will thus
expand the flowers more slowly and naturally, and there
will be no complaint of dropping buds, imperfect flowers,
and yellow, sickly foliage. One prime mistake in flori-
culture is the little attention paid to uniformity of tempera-
ture ; a plant can no more preserve a healthy state when
exposed to an atmosphere varying from thirty to one hun-
dred degrees in a few hours, now dry and now surcharged
with moisture, than can an animal. The progress of dis-
ease may be more gradual, but it is sure to show itself,
and, sooner or later, the death of the plant is the result.
The plants, when in bloom, should be shaded, as thus the
flowers remain in perfection much longer. Give the plants
plenty of air at all times, but during the season of growth
protect them from chilling draughts, which would cause the
young leaves to curl and stunt the plant. During the

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 67

summer, the plants should be placed in a shady, airy
situation, out of doors ; allow room enough between the
plants for free circulation of air ; the practice of setting
the plants in a mass, under trees, is most objectionable ;
in the first place, the drip from the branches overhead is
injurious, and again, the pots become filled with earth-
worms, which are often difficult to dislodge.

Another mistake in the culture of camellias is too fre-
quently re-potting ; while the plant should not be allowed
to become pot-bound, too much room should not be
afforded ; a vigorous plant will not require re-potting
oftener than every three years ; on this point there is,
however, some difference of opinion. It is a popular error
that the wood of a camellia should not be cut ; on the
contrary, there is scarcely a hard-wooded plant that bears
the knife better; the plant is by nature symmetrical in
growth, and, by judicious pruning, perfect specimens may
easily be obtained. •

Pruning should be done after blooming, just as the plants
begin their growth. .Not more than one flower bud should
be allowed on each terminal shoot, if size and perfection
of flower ai3 required; remove all others before the buds
begin to swell ; if delayed longer, little advantage is gained.

68 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The florists' varieties of the camellia are too numerous
to mention ; the principal colors are red, white, and rose,
with all the intermediate shades. The Chinese profess to
possess a yellow variety, but we believe it has never been
imported ; we have seen a variety named " yellow," the
flowers being semi-double, and of a dirty white color.

The following are all well-proved kinds, and may easily
be procured of any nurseryman. In buying plants, select
those of shrubby form, dark green foliage, without any
places where leaves have been dropped ; look well to see
that the plant is free from scale, red spider, or mealy bug ;
if possible, examine the roots, to ascertain if they are in
a healthy state.

White. Alba plena, Candidissima, Myrtifolia alba, Imbricata alba,
Fimbriata, and Oleifera.

Rose, Rosy Pink, or Carmine. Saccoi, Henri Favre, Imbricata rubra,
Marchioness of Exeter, Binneyii, Fultonii, Fordii, Floyii, Jeffersonii,
Landrethii, Myrtifolia, Prattii, Wilderii.

Blush. Lady Hume's blush, Towne's blush, Pomponia.

White, striped with Red or Rose. Feastii, Eclipse, Duchess of Or-
leans, Mrs. Abby Wilder.

Red, striped or marked with White. Carswelliana, Chandleri, Donck-
elaarii, Queen Victoria, Elegans, Elphingstonia.

Crimson. Bealii. Elata, Eximia, Lowii, Palmer's perfection, Sarah
Frost, Wardii.

For Seedlings. Waratah, or Anemoneflora, Tricolor, Donckelaarii,
Simplex alba, Carnea.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 69

Could we have but one camellia, we would choose
Double white or Candidissima, for white ; for blush, Lady
Hume's blush ; for crimson, Sarah Frost.

All these are peculiarly adapted for the window.

ORANGE AND LEMON TREES.

These are favorites for parlor culture, and easily grown.
Their treatment is almost identical with that required for
the camellia : the same soil, the same temperature, and the
same general treatment will produce success in the culture
of both.

But they are by no means so clean plants as the camellia,
being very subject to scale and mealy bug. The only
remedy is constant washing, both of the stem and leaves,
with a weak soap-suds warm, and applied with a soft cloth.
Grown in large tubs they do well in a parlor if kept suffi-
ciently cool, and in summer succeed well out of doors.

They are thirsty plants and require much Avater : good
drainage is essential. From December to March they will
make but little growth ; then -water moderately. About
the first of March growth begins, succeeded by bloom ; then
give more water. After the young growth becomes hard-
ened, they may be set out of doors if the weather is favor-

70 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

able. A violent wind disfigures the foliage. The young
fruit will set in April and May, and will continue green all
summer, coloring the next spring, and holding on the tree
a long time. At the first approach of frost, the plants
should be removed to their winter quarters. The lemon
does not bloom and fruit as early as the orange, and is of
taller growth and less fitted for the parlor : the blossoms are
smaller and purplish outside.

The little dwarf " Otahcite orange" is a very common
variety, and is always noticeable for its profusion of fruit.
The flowers are not as fine as the other kinds, though plen-
tifully produced. The fruit is sweet, but without flavor.

The Mandarin orange is one of the finest species (dwarf),
and producing an abundance of fruit of the most exquisite
flavor. Unfortunately it is not common.

There are many other larger growing species, all of which
produce a profusion of white flowers, exquisitely fragrant.

Among these, the myrtle leaved is conspicuous for its
shining foliage, and the large shaddock for its enormous
white flowers. The former is as symmetrical in its growth
as the latter is tall and ungainly.

Oranges and lemons raised from seed must attain a large
size before they will bloom. The better plan is to graft or

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 71

rather bud the seedling when about a year old. This
operation is simple, but is best performed in a green-house,
and it is therefore better to employ some neighboring florist
to do it. Any variety may be budded on a common seed-
ling stock.

Oranges and lemons will live under neglect, but to grow
and flower them to perfection, attention to details, espe-
cially of cleanliness, is indispensable.

THE DAPHNE.

This plant, of which the varieties are numerous, never
receives the care and attention its beauty merits. Every
green-house contains plants of the well-known Daphne
odorata, sometimes called D. Indica and vulgarly known
as " Daphne odora." It is to this plant we intend more
particularly to confine our attention.

It is a green-house evergreen shrub, attaining the height
of about four feet, remarkable for its long, dark, glossy,
green leaves, and its terminal bunches of fragrant, white
flowers. It is one of the few old-fashioned plants which
the modern rage for novelties has not driven entirely out of
cultivation. It has only been thrust into the corners, and
left to make its merits known by its beauty and fragrance.

72 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

It is one of our most popular flowers, and as a window
plant is unsurpassed, flourishing and blooming in situations
where most plants would dwindle and die.

With gardeners it is no favorite, because, as they say,
it is too straggling, and does not form a neat plant. In
some respects this assertion is true, for it is impossible to
bring into good shape a plant of this variety when once
neglected ; but by beginning with a young, healthy plant,
much may be done, and fine specimens formed. Let it be
remembered that the daphne " breaks" easily. Prune the
plant to a bare stump, and in a few weeks buds will start
from all the younger wood ; therefore prune severely ;
never allow a branch to remain where it is -not wanted; let
it be as vigorous or luxuriant as it may, and never be afraid
of pruning for fear of losing the flowers.

The cultivation of the green-house varieties of this plant
is almost identical with that of the camellia ; the same tern-
perature will do for both.

The plants should have plenty of pot room, and the pots
be well drained.

Potting should generally be done in the fall, about the
time the plants are housed, when as much of the old soil
should be removed as possible without disturbing the roots.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 73

The principal varieties are : —

Daphne odorata, the most valuable variety from its sea-
son of flowering, which is from December to March, accord-
ing to the degree of heat given; leaves oblong, lanceolate,
smooth ; flowers white or pinkish, in terminal heads, pro-
duced in great profusion. Introduced from China about
A. D.I 770. Propagated by cuttings with great ease. It is
one of the best parlor plants we know of, and may be
obtained at any green- house at a very trifling expense.

D. odorata rubra is a superior, and by no means common
variety; buds, red; flowers, rosy red, with a 'powerful spicy
fragrance. It is a somewhat stronger grower than the last.

There is also a variety with variegated foliage, which is
no less desirable, though rather scarce.

Daphne hylrida is a pretty evergreen shrub, hardy in
England, but too tender to endure our winters without
protection ; flowers purple, produced in terminal heads and
in lateral bunches very freely, and possessing an agreeable
fragrance. It blooms at all seasons of the year, but espe-
cially from January to April.

The soil should be four parts loam, two of leaf mould,
and one of sand.
7

7-1 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE AZALEA.

The Azalea Indica, or Chinese Azalea, is of Asiatic origin.
The varieties are innumerable ; but the most common and
longest known variety is that from which others are but
hybrids, Azalea Indica.

It is a strong growing plant, with long, coarse, evergreen
leaves, producing in clusters of three or more, at the end of
the branches red 'flowers marked with dark spots. This
plant may be grown in great perfection, and, as well as all
the varieties, is admirably adapted for a window plant.
The habit is shrubby, and the flowers are produced in great
profusion. A. Indica alba has white flowers, and is a fine
old variety. A. Indica purpurea is a variety with blossoms
of a light purple color ; a profuse bloomer, and of rapid
growth. There is also a double variety. A. Indica coccinea
is bright scarlet. From these all the fine varieties of the
green-houses have been produced.

To grow the plants in perfection good drainage is essen-
tial. Fill the pot one quarter full of broken potsherds,
then fill the soil to within naif an inch of the top ; soil, a
dark peat three parts, one part of loam, one half part of
silver sand.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 75

Frequent re-potting conduces to the health of the plants.
As a general rule, re-pot when the roots run among the
crocks at the bottom of the pot. Do not sift the soil ;
break it into small pieces.

Frequent syringing is beneficial, but over-watering must
be carefully avoided. Give full sunshine to the plant, but
lay a little moss over the pot if the sun is very hot, to pro-
tect the roots.

Keep the plant about the temperature prescribed for
camellias.

As soon as the flowers fall growth begins. Give plenty
of air and sun, for on this growth depends the bloom of the
next year. It should be short, close, and the flower buds
be set at the end of each branch.

Set the plants out of doors in the summer, as prescribed
for camellias.

Azaleas may be pruned into any shape. This operation
should be performed after the flowers have dropped, or after
the plant has made its season's growth.

The Azalea is subject to rottenness of the roots, produced
by a sodden soil, the effect of over-watering. The remedy
is simple : re-pot the plant, and water moderately. Exces-
sive dryness, the other extreme, produces yellow leaves and
a general unhealthy appearance.

76 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The following varieties are of proved excellence, and very
distinct. All will succeed in the house.

Azalea amcena, a lovely variety ; flowers double purple ;
produced in great profusion in midwinter.

Indica lateritia, salmon ; Danielsiana, bright red ; Per-
reyana, scarlet ; Murrey ana, rose ; Indica alba, white ;
Purpurea, purple ; Coccinea, red.

Iveryana, pink and white ; Variegata, rose and white ;
Gledstanesii, white, striped with red.

This list might be increased an hundred fold.

THE ERICA. HEATH.

All the plants belonging to this genus are of a low, shrub-
by habit, with fine acicular foliage. None are natives of
America. The fine varieties of our green-houses, with the
exception of the common Erica Mediterranean are natives
of the Cape of Good Hope, whence the gardener's term,
" Cape Heaths."

The erica will not thrive unless the soil is adapted to its
peculiar nature ; this is often very difficult to learn, and
experience must sometimes be the teacher. The soil to
obtain is one of a friable nature, full of vegetable fibre.
We find in an old magazine the best directions we remem-

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 77

ber to have met in regard to choice of soil. We give them
entire for the benefit of our readers : —

" Heaths, like the azalea and rhododendron, make very
small, hair-like roots ; and where these latter are growing
naturally, will be found a good locality to collect soil for
the artificial cultivation of the former. This soil will be
found full of decaying organic matter. Take up a handful
of it, and you will find a mass of thickly grown, fine fibre,
feeling like a bunch of moss. Examine it, and you will see
that it is chiefly composed of a black debris of leaves and
sticks, thickly interwoven with the roots of surrounding
vegetation. An inch or two only of the surface shoul:!
be taken ; all below that is generally inferior, the organic
matter in it being too much decomposed.

" Where this deposit cannot be obtained, a good substitute-
will be found in turves from old pasture, cut thin, collected
in dry weather, and piled in a heap two or three months
before using, so that the vegetation in it may be slightly
decomposed. Both in its chemical and mechanical prop-
erties such a soil is nearly all that can be wished. In pre-
paring it, however, it is better to chop it up rather, fine,
securing a proper mechanical texture by the admixture of
coarse sand, broken charcoal, or even a few pebbles, or
7*

78 PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

broken potsherds may be used to advantage for keeping the
soil open, to allow free admission for atmospheric gases ;
an essential point to be kept in view in the cultivation of
all plants, more particularly those in pots, for they are then
entirely dependent on the cultivator for those conditions
which they receive in their natural habitats.

"Such a soil as here recommended, kept sufficiently open
by any of the above mentioned ingredients, is easily pene-
trated by air, thereby increasing its temperature and fac»U-
tating the decomposition of organic matter, during wh.ch
process various healthful gases are supplied to plants."

In either of the kinds of soil prepared as directed, heaths
wnl do well. The great point to obtain is 'a loose, porous
soil; for this reason the soil should always be broken,
never sifted.

Another requisite in heath culture, is good drainage ;
this cannot be too strongly insisted upon ; with the best of
soil, the plants will suffer if water stagnates around the
roots.

Fill the pot one fourth full of crocks, and be careful the
hole at the bottom is kept open. Never place the pot in a
saucer or vessel of any kind, for all water not absorbed
must be allowed to drain off. The pots should be clean

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 79

and free from mould or dirt ; cleanliness is a point too much
neglected.

In some sections of our country, much difficulty is expe-
rienced in growing heaths ; the water containing salts in
solution which are fatal to the plant, and we know nursery-
men who have altogether abandoned their culture. This
seems the case in limestone countries, and we have noticed
that heaths, of the tender varieties, when watered with
"hard" water, grew sickly and soon died. The best plan
is to use only rain water, and pursuing this course no diffi-
culty will be experienced. It is a curious fact, that in its
native countries, the heath is never found in a soil of which
the substratum is lime or chalk. In England, -heaths are
always grown apart from other plants ; with us they occupy
the coolest part of the green-house. As a general rule,
nothing short of frost is too cold for them, and some
varieties will bear several degrees of frost without injury.
In the wild state, they are distributed over a vast range of
country, which accounts for the different temperatures the
varieties require ; the degree of cold adapted to each, must
be the lesson of experience. Among gardeners, heaths are
termed hard-wooded or soft- wooded; the former make only
a short growth each season, for example, E. Cavendeshii ;

80 PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

the latter grow a foot or more, as E. Caffra and others.
The two kinds require somewhat different treatment ; the
former being far more difficult to manage ; they are, how-
ever, far more beautiful, some even dazzling from the bril-
liancy of their flowers. Heaths require plenty of air. If
crowded, they are subject to mildew; a disease much more
easily prevented than cured. Air should be given, if pos-
sible, every day ; but cold draughts should be avoided dur-
ing the growing season.

Though heaths are often lost during the winter by grow-
ing them in too high a temperature, yet the greatest mor-
tality is caused by the heat of summer. With many it is
the custom to treat the plants as other hard-wooded plants ;
to turn them out doors during the summer, under the shade
of some tree. The consequence is, the pots are often
exposed to the hot sun, the tender fibrous roots become
parched, and the plant dies ; or else the drip from the trees
rots the roots, producing the like result. Our experience
has shown the best plan to be a different treatment for the
plants according to their age. Early in June, all young
plants should be planted out in a bed with a northern
exposure ; there they will grow luxuriantly during the sum-
mer. Before the September frosts, re-pot them with care,

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 81

and winter as old plants. We have found a large bed pre-
pared for rhododendrons and azaleas the most favorable
place. It is sheltered from the south by a belt of white
pines. The soil of prepared peat is suited to the wants of
the plant, while the large foliage of the rhododendrons
keeps the soil moist by preventing rapid evaporation. For
the older plants, we choose a shaded spot, and prepare a
bed of coal ashes ; slope the bottom to carry off superfluous
moisture ; plunge the pots in the bed of ashes, and if the bed
is exposed to the sun for any length of time, shade by an
awning. Be careful not to crowd the plants ; a free circu-
lation of air is essential. By this mode, the pots are never
exposed to the rays of the sun ; the plants receive plenty of
light without being burned, and by syringing at evening,
and sprinkling (not pouring) water upon the pots and bed,
a sufficiency of moisture is secured. Some varieties of the
soft-wooded class, such as Caffra rubra and alba, Margari-
tacea, and others, do best planted out in the full sunshine.
The growth becomes short and stout, and the plants are
more hardy and less liable to injury. By this course, how-
ever, all beauty of foliage is lost, for the plants become of a
rusty brown color, which never disappears till the leaves fall.
Re-potting should be done whenever the roots become

82 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

matted or collected at the bottom or sides of the pot ;
examine to see if they are healthy ; if so, give them a
larger pot ; if not, prune off those which are dead, remove
the old soil, and pot in the same size, or smaller, as the
case may require.

The custom with gardeners is to pot heaths in the spring,
but the grower must be guided by the. state of the plant.

Insects give but little trouble, where proper regard is
paid to the plants.

Mealy-bug is sometimes found ; the best course to pur-
sue, if the plant is badly infested, is to throw it away, for
it is almost impossible to remove the insect ; if but slightly
affected, pick them off, and wash the plant well with warm
soap-suds ; whale oil soap is preferable. The same rules
apply when the plants are troubled with black or brown
scale. Erica arborea is particularly subject to attacks of
the former, and from the fine, close nature of its foliage, it
is very difficult to clean.

We have never known our heaths to be troubled by red
spider or by aphis.

In growing ericas, some attention must be paid to prun-
ing, or rather to pinching ; the plants should never be
allowed to grow tall and spindling ; they should be grown

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 83

near the glass, and, by frequent turning, prevented from
becoming one-sided. Some varieties are of symmetrical
form by nature ; others require much care to control the
too luxuriant branches.

Heaths strike freely from cuttings. Take the tops of the
young shoots, about an inch in length ; prepare a pot or
pan of heath soil ; cover this with silver sand to the depth
of half an inch ; insert the cuttings about half their length,
as thickly as you please ; cover them with a glass, and
frequently wipe the moisture from the inner surface of the
glass ; keep them slightly moist, and shelter from the direct
rays of the sun.

When rooted, pot off the cuttings into small pots filled
with heath soil, with the addition of a little more sand than
is used for the old plants ; as soon as the season permits,
plant them out to make growth. In re-potting plants or
cuttings, care should be taken never to sink the crown of
the root lower than it was before ; rather raise than
sink it.

There is no plant which makes a greater show, or proves
more attractive as a specimen, than the erica. In England,
it is grown in the greatest perfection, some of the plants
being twelve feet high, and eight feet in thickness. Can a

84 PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

more superb object than such a plant be imagined, when in
full bloom ?

From over five hundred varieties, we cannot be expected
to give all that are deserving of cultivation ; as before
remarked, none are destitute, of beauty. The periods of
bloom are from January to November ; indeed, we may
have heaths in bloom every month in the year. The fol-
lowing list contains a select variety in colors : —

White or Light-Flowered. Arborea, Margaritacea, Grandinosa, Bow-
eana, Jasminiflora, Conferta, Vestita alba, Odorata, Ventricosa, Pellu-
cida, Wilmoriana, Caffra alba.

Red Flowers. Gracilis, Ignescens, Mediterranea, Caffra rubra.

Scarlet or Crimson. Ardens, Cerinthoides, Hartnelli, Splendens,
Coccinea, Vestita fulgida, Tricolor.

Purple Flowers. Araoena, Mammosa, Melanthera mutabilis, Pro-
pendens tubiflora.

Lilac. Baccans, Suavolens.

Yellow. Cavendishii, Depressa, Denticulata.

Green-Flowered. Gelida, Veridiflora, Viridis.

For window culture, the varieties succeeding best are
Caffra rubra and alba, Margaritacea, Arborea, and Medi-
terranea.

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant,
because it is a general favorite, yet never seen in goocl
condition in the parlor.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 85

The plant is very hardy, yet impatient of the least neg-
lect. A single day's -omission to water, or a drenching,
with poor drainage, will kill the plant; yet it will lan-
guish for months, and all your care will fail to restore it.
If the hair-like roots once become parched or sodden, the
plant will die.

We do not recommend it for a window plant, yet its
beauty is worth all the care required ; and will not some
be fired by ambition to make the heath a window plant ?

THE CYCLAMEN.

This pretty flower is too little known. It is a native of
Europe and Asia, some varieties being very abundant in
Switzerland and Italy, and is to be found in almost every
green-house. It is of the easiest culture. Pot about the
latter part of November, in a rich loam, with a dash of
silver sand ; an addition of about a spoonful of the old soot
from a flue will increase the size and brilliancy of the
flowers. It must be well incorporated with the soil. Bits
of charcoal, broken fine, serve the same purpose. Place
the crown of the bulb just above the surface of the soil.
The size of the pot must be determined by the size of the
bulb ; as a general rule, cyclamen do not require large pots.
8

86 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Good drainage is indispensable. Keep the plants cool till
the leaves are well grown, always keeping them near the
glass. When the flower buds begin to rise on the foot
stalks, remove to a sunny shelf, where they will soon
show bloom. By shading, the duration of the flowers is
prolonged. When the bloom is past, gradually withhold
water ; the leaves will turn yellow, and the plants should
be kept dry, in a state of rest, all summer. Do not allow
the plants to ripen seed (which they do freely) unless you
desire seedlings, to increase your stock. The seed germf-
nates easily, sown in rich loam, and seedlings bloom the
third year. Some find difficulty in preventing the shrivel-
ling of the bulbs during the summer. Our best cultivators,
to prevent this, bury tho bulbs during the summer in the
open border ; take them up about the middle of September,
when they are found fresh, plump, and in good condition
for a start. There is one risk, however, in this method :
mice are very fond of the bulbs, and sometimes commit
great havoc. There is shown in this plant a curious pro-
vision of Nature : no sooner has the flower faded, than the
stem begins to curl up, and buries the seed capsule in the
ground, at the root of the plant ; this is designed to pro-
tect the seed from birds, and to sow it in a congenial soil.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 87

Good-sized, blooming bulbs may be obtained at any
green-house, for from fifty cents to one dollar each for the
more common varieties. This bulb is particularly adapted
for window culture, and will give more flowers, with less
trouble, and occupying less space, than any flower we are
acquainted with. The more common varieties are C. Per-
sicum, white, tipped with rich, rosy purple ; C. Persicum
album, pure white ; C. punctatum, resembling Persicum.
All these flower from January to March. C. Europceum,
pinkish purple ; C. Europceum album, pure white ; C.
hederafolium, very large, rosy purple, a splendid variety.
All these bloom from October to January.

Bright gems of earth, in which perchance we see
What Eden was, what Paradise may te.

CHAPTER IV.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THE GERANIUM. THE PELARGONIUM : History.— Culture. — Soil. — Pot-
ting. — Winter Treatment. — Varieties. THE VERBENA : History. —
Culture. — Cutting's. — Summer Culture. — Potting for Winter. — Wa-
tering.—Soil.— Seedlings.— Properties of a good Verbena. — Window
Culture. — Varieties. THE HELIOTROPE : History. — Culture. — Prun-
ing. — Varieties. THE SALVIA, OR MEXICAN SAGE : Summer Culture.

(88)

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 89

—Winter Culture. — Varieties. THE TROP/EOLUM, OR NASTURTIUM :
Varieties. — Soil. — Culture. — Varieties of the small Nasturtium. — Win-
dow Culture.

THE GERANIUM.

, NDER this head, we propose to treat
of the plants usually known, in com-
mon parlance, as Geraniums, includ-
ing both those horticulturally and
botanically known as such, and Pelar-
goniums. Between these there are
many minute and fanciful distinc-
tions ; the principal seems to be, the
geranium has no nectary ; the pelar-
gonium has a nectary adhering to the
peduncle. For window gardening, their treatment must
be the same.

For the pelargoniums, we are chiefly indebted to the
Cape of Good Hope ; the geranium is found, in some of its
varieties, in Asia, Europe, and America ; two of the family,
our " wild geraniums," being familiar to us all as among
the wild flowers of spring.

The scarlet, or horse-shoe geranium, so called from the
color of its flowers, and the dark marking of its leaves, is
a very common and popular window plant. The rose, oak,

90 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

and nutmeg geraniums are commonly grown for their fra-
grant leaves, and for their hardiness, as they can endure
more hard usage than most plants.

The general fault in geranium culture is, crowding. The
plants need light and air on all sides, and unless this is
afforded they soon become one-sided, long-drawn, and strag-
gling, with but few leaves, and these in a tuft at the end.
The blossoms are small and few, and the whole plant pre-
sents a picture of vegetation under difficulties.

The fine varieties of pelargonium, called "Fancies" by
florists, it is useless to attempt to grow to any perfection in
the house. They need constant care ; and the rules for
growing them as specimens, laid down by English florists,
are sufficiently confusing and contradictory to involve the
amateur in a maze of difficulty.

Light, air, and cleanliness are the three, primary rules for
growing geraniums. The horse-shoe and high-scented vari-
eties are not troubled by insects. The pelargoniums (large-
flowered geraniums), require constant attention to keep
them free from the green fly, which increases upon them
with wonderful rapidity. If the weather is warm, and the
plants at all affected by the fly, they should be smoked once
in ten days, and frequently* syringed. Surely the beauty of

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 91

the flowers will compensate for any trouble. To prevent
" drawing," that is, the growing of the plants towards the
light, all geraniums should be frequently turned, which will
give a well-proportioned plant. If the plants grow too tall,
pinch out the top ; all the axillary buds will then break
into lateral branches. Again, if the side branches become
too close, prune them out fearlessly. The geranium breaks
easily, and you need never be afraid of killing the plant,
even if you prune it down to a bare stump.

SOIL.

Pelargoniums and geraniums require a strong soil ; that
is, good sound loam, such as will grow melons. The top
of a pasture will answer well. Let it be carted home and
laid up in a long ridge, so as to expose as large a surface to
the air as possible. Keep it clear of weeds, and let it be
turned over every little while. To two parts of this loam,
add one part of two-year-old cow dung, well turned over.
Old hot-bed dung will do nearly, but not quite as well.
Then add about one part of river sand and bits of charcoal,
mixed. Let all these ingredients be kept in separate heaps
till wanted for potting, then mix them in the above propor-
tions, and use them moderately dry. This compost should

92 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

be used to bloom and grow the plants in. For the winter
season, use a small quantity of leaf mould instead of dung.
Fresh soil is always to be preferred, for old soil is apt to
become cloddy and sour.

POTTING.

All being ready, put the drainage in a suitable sized pot.
Place first a suitable crock, or a large oyster shell over the
hole ; then lay a few large crocks upon that, and smaller
upon those, so that the drainage may occupy about three
fourths of an inch. Place a thin layer of moss upon the
drainage, and upon that a sprinkling of soot or charcoal
dust ; after that a thin layer of the rougher parts of the
compost, and finally a layer of soil. Then turn the plant
out of the old pot, pick out the old drainage, and loosen
part of the old roots, spreading them over the new soil as
much as possible. Then see that the collar of the roots is
just below the rim of the pot, and fill in around the ball
with the fresh soil, pressing it down gently as it is put in.
When the pot is full, give it a smart stroke or two upon the
bench to settle the soil ; level it neatly, leaving it about
half an inch below the rim of the pot. This finishes the
potting. Then give a good watering of tepid water.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 93

For four or five weeks, while new roots are running into
the fresh soil, they will not need a large supply of water ;
but when the roots reach the sides of the pots, and the
leaves and shoots are advancing in growth, then water will
be required in abundance.

They should never be allowed to flag.

After a hot, sunny day, let the plants, in addition to the
water at the roots, have a gentle syringing. Exercise dis-
cretion, however, on this point.

The geranium is a spring and summer blooming plant.
It is very difficult to obtain a flower from December to
April ; therefore, during the winter it should be kept cool,
and moderately dry.

About the first of February re-pot the plants, give more-
heat, sun, and water, and your plants will bloom profusely
in May.

The varieties grown only for their leaves may have more
generous culture during the winter months.

VARIETIES.

Ivy-leaved geranium (P. lateripes), is a pretty trailing
species, with ivy-shaped leaves and purple flowers in the
summer. There is also a variety with white flowers. It is

94 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

a pretty window plant, and always does well. It needs
plenty of light, sun, and generous culture.

The varieties of horse-shoe geraniums (P. zonale hybrids'),
are all good window flowers, and will often bloom in winter.
The following are the best old varieties : —

Scarlet. Dazzle, Tom Thumb, Defiance.
Cerise. Cerise unique.
Pink. Rosa mundi.

. White. Boule de Neige, Lady Turner.
Variegated Leaved. Flower of the Day, Golden Chain, Alma, Bijou.

These latter varieties need a green-house to develop the
rich colors of the foliage, yet they do well as bedding plants
in the summer.
* P. graveolens is the common rose geranium.

THE VERBENA.

There are few plants which lend more beauty to the
flower garden in summer, or enliven the green-house in
the winter and early spring months in a greater degree, than
the verbena. From the variety of colors, the rapidity of
propagation, the little care needed to bloom the plant in per-
fection, and the abundance of blossoms, it is, and always
must remain, a universal favorite.

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 95

In addition to these advantages, the facility with which
new varieties are raised from seed, render it a favorite with
the amateur; and in no collection do we fail to find the
verbena, in some of its many varieties,

It is a difficult task to prescribe the culture of a plant so
well known, and which will grow and nourish under such a
variety of circumstances, and in such different situations.
As every one has grown verbenas, each has his own peculiar
mode of treatment, if, indeed, a flower requiring so little
care can be said to have peculiar treatment.

In writing of a plant, from which seedlings are produced
with such ease, and which sports into such an infinite
variety of colors and shades, we cannot be too careful in
expressing a decided opinion. Every year new seedlings
are " brought out," and latterly the varieties have so mul-
tiplied that it is very difficult to choose those really worthy
of cultivation : the favorite of this spring may, after a year's
trial, be cast aside as worthless, for it may not be found
worthy of general cultivation, or better varieties may have
been originated.

Our verbena was introduced into England from Buenos
Ayres, where it is indigenous, by Mr. Hugh Gumming, an
ardent lover of nature, about the year 1825.

96 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The first, and for a long time the only variety cultivated,
was Verbena melindres, or chamcedrifolia ; but it now
appears lost among the new and superior kinds which have
been raised from seed. In form, it has been repeatedly
excelled, but its creeping habit and abundance of bloom
must always recommend it, though we doubt if at the
present time it can be obtained at any of our green-houses,
and probably, few of our younger cultivators have ever seen
this once popular variety. The color is scarlet, and though
perhaps equalled, can never be excelled. Many other
earlier varieties might be mentioned, but, although interest-
ing, it would too much extend the limits of this article.

Verbena multifida, with lilac purple flowers, was intro-
duced from Peru ; Verbena Tiveediana, with rose crimson
flowers, from Brazil; and from these, and a few other
varieties and seedlings, have sprung all the numerous
varieties, many hundred in number, which may be found in
extensive collections. The credit of introducing this plant
into the United States belongs to Robert Buist, of Phila-
delphia. About the year 1835, from seed received from
Buenos Ayres, he raised the first white, pink, and crimson
verbenas. The plant soon became generally known, and
was every where a favorite ; in the floral world it caused

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 97

quite an excitement, and the original kinds were soon sur-
passed, in every respect, by newer seminal varieties.

The culture of the verbena is very simple. The plants
will bloom with very little care, but to grow them in perfec-
tion requires attention ; of thousands of plants of any size,
scarcely one is a fine specimen. Let us, beginning in early
spring, trace the plant, as generally grown, and then see
how much a little care might increase its beauty.

About the first of February, cuttings of the young shoots
are taken from old plants : in a sandy loam, a few weeks,
and sometimes a few days, will suffice to root them ; they
are then potted off into thumb pots, and, if placed near the
glass, will soon show a terminal flower. As soon as the
season is sufficiently advanced, these young plants are bed-
ded out, and, in favorable seasons, soon form a conspicuous
feature in the flower garden, continuing to bloom till long
after the early frosts. About the first or middle of Septem-
ber, the gardener begins to re-pot his plants for winter, and
the common practice is to take a runner, which has rooted
well at a joint, and, after suitable pruning, to pot it foi
winter blooming and propagation. Others, again, take up
the old roots, while others, by sinking pots in their verbena
bed, about midsummer, allowed the runners to root directly
9

98 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

in the pots ; the pots being taken up, and the connection
with the mother plant cut, the young plant receives no
injury or check. But this mode is very objectionable, for
two reasons : first, the loam in the pots is apt to become
sour and sodden; and again, earthworms often enter the
pots, and prove injurious during the winter. The plants
are housed, and, for a long time, produce no flowers, and
are any thing but ornamental. Soon after the new year,
they begin to grow vigorously, but are allowed to trail care-
lessly over the staging, or droop from some hanging shelf.
No care or attention is bestowed upon them, except to give
the daily .supply of water.

The days grow towards spring. Cuttings' are again taken
off ; the same process is repeated year after year ; and thus
one of our loveliest flowers, which, with a little care, might
be one of the greatest attractions and ornaments of our
green-houses, is never seen in perfection, except in the
garden.

That this is the fact, is to be deplored ; yet the remedy
is simple. By beginning about midsummer, we may have
verbenas in bloom as well during the winter as the spring
months. About the first of August, or earlier, cuttings
should be taken from desirable varieties. In a fortnight

,

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 99

they will be ready to transplant. Pot them in thumb pots,
and re-pot as soon as the roots touch the sides of the pot.
Keep them in vigorous growth by affording plenty of light
and air, being careful they never suffer from want of water.
Pinch off the leading shoots, to cause all axillary buds to
break, and in no case allow them to bloom. Train the
plant in any form desired, but be careful not to permit it to
grow too straggling. When other plants are housed,
remove your verbenas to some warm shelf, where they may
have the morning sun, and on every favorable day give
plenty of air, and fumigate well to destroy green aphis.
Your plants will soon be in luxuriant bloom, long before
those potted in the common way have shown a bud, and
will continue to afford an abundance of flowers until late in
the spring. To grow verbenas well in the house in summer
is far easier. They may be bloomed in pots of any size,
and trained in almost any form, the only requisites being
plenty of light and air, careful pruning, and means to
destroy aphis and keep off mildew.

One great fault in growing verbenas is the practice of
watering too copiously. The plant, as originally found,
grows on dry hills ; and damp not only produces mildew,
but rots the roots, and thus destroys or produces disease in
the plant,

100 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

The proper soil for verbenas, is two parts of loam, two of
leaf mould, with an admixture of sand, and in this we have
found them grow and bloom luxuriantly.

Many verbenas, which for green-house blooming are
unsurpassed,, are worthless for bedding purposes ; the petal
of the flower being too thin, or the color fading or changing.
Again, some bloom well in winter, others far better in sum-
mer ; some form large masses and flower well, others are of
rambling growth and poor bloomers ; some of creeping,
others of more upright habit ; while a few possess every
desirable quality ; and in making a selection, all these prop-
erties are to be considered.

We have said that seedlings were produced with great
ease. The verbena seeds well where the plants have not
been too long propagated by cuttings. A long-continued
propagation by cuttings seems to diminish the power of the
plants to produce seed, and, as a general rule, the further
removed a plant is from a seedling, the less the chance of
its perfecting good seed. The seeds may be sown in a hot-
bed or green-house, early in spring, and the plants, when
about an inch and a half high, pricked out in the border ;
it is a good plan to pinch out the leading shoot, as thus the
plants branch and become stronger ; the plants grow
"apidly, and soon show bloom.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 101

But to raise a seedling is one thing, to raise a fine seed-
ling, a far different. Of many hundred raised in the course
of the last few years, by the writer, not more than half a
dozen have been worthy of preservation, and only one (and
that produced by chance) really a first-class flower.

In raising seed, much may be done to insure its quality
by planting fine varieties together, and allowing them to
intertwine, then gathering the seed from these plants. No
rule can be laid down to obtain any desired color, for the
seedlings sport infinitely. We can only approximate
towards definite results ; thus, if we plant Annie (white)
and Robinson's Defiance (red) together, the seedling will be
likely to be pink.

The flowers of the verbena are of every color and shade,
except light blue, which color has never been obtained. A
good yellow verbena has not yet been produced. There is
a miserable variety, with a small truss of dirty yellow
flowers. The writer, some years since, by a curious process
of watering and fertilization with a white verbena, obtained
a seedling, which proved, on blooming, to be of a light straw
color ; the plant was weak and sickly, and died before cut-
tings could be taken. Since that time he has tried the
experiment often, but never with any successful result.
9*

102 PLANTS FOE WINDOW GARDENING.

The qualities of a first-class verbena, as laid down by
florists, are : roundness of flower, without indenture, notch,
or serrature ; petals thick, flat, bright and smooth ; the
plant should be compact, with short, strong joints, either
distinctly of a shrubby habit, or a close, ground creeper or
climber ; the trusses of bloom, compact, standing out from
the foliage, the flowers meeting, but not crowding each
other; the foliage should be short, broad, bright, and
enough to hide the stalk ; in the eyed and striped varieties,
the colors should be well defined and lasting, never running
into each other, or changing in the sun.

As a window plant, there is nothing that will give more
bloom than a verbena. Let it be trained on a trellis, and
give it all the sun possible ; the more sun, the more bloom.
Pinch the shoots, to prevent its becoming too rambling, and
give air enough, and your work is done.

The production of seedlings, as above directed, is a very
pretty amusement, and very simple. Seedlings will bloom
in three months, from the seed.

It only remains for us to describe some of the best vari-
eties, both old and new. Those called first-class flowers,
can be recommended for general culture, while many others,
though very distinct and beautiful, are valuable only in a

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 103

large collection, or interesting to the amateur. We have
not noticed seedlings, unless they have been proved and
shown to be worthy of general culture.

GIANT OF BATTLES. Flower and truss large ; habit
good ; foliage large ; color dark scarlet, with purplish eye.
A good variety.

DRED. Flower medium ; habit weak ; a good bloomer,
but of a dull purplish lake color. Pretty for variety.

ADMIRAL DUNDAS. Foliage and habit good ; color vel-
vety scarlet. Fine.

GENERAL SIMPSON. A magnificent variety ; color scarlet,
crimson ; flower and truss very large ; habit very strong ;
by far the best of its color. No garden should be with-
out it.

CELESTIAL. A strong growing variety, the leaves often
two inches across ; truss large, forming a fine head ; color
pink, with darker eye ; very fine.

EVENING STAR. Color dark crimson, with well-defined
white eye ; growth small ; very fine in the house, and one
of the best of the eyed varieties for the border.

ROSY GEM. A lovely verbena ; flower and foliage of
medium size ; color rosy lake, with light eye ; fine in the
house, but worthless for open culture.

104 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

BRILLIANT DE VAISE. Growth fine ; color crimson sca»-
let ; a first-class variety ; succeeds equally well in the house
and garden, though a late bloomer.

CLIMAX. Light, with dark eye ; good.

CHAUVIEE.I. Of weak habit; color dazzling crimson,
with dark eye ; valuable in a collection.

DEFIANCE (Robinson's). A fine old variety, always
popular, and .one of the best for bedding ; growth strong ;
color dazzling red.

DEFIANCE (Kurtz's). Of large, strong growth ; color
light pink, shading to a dark eye ; truss very large and flat ;
fine.

ETOILE DE VENUS. Similar to the last, but larger and
finer.

ANNIE. Habit strong ; foliage medium ; color pure
white ; truss large, flat, single blooms very large ; in some
situations in the garden it has been very poor, in others
very good ; a damp, peaty soil has flowered it in perfection,
while in a dry or sandy place the trusses have been small,
the growth weak, and the flowers inclined to change to pink.
In the green-house, for winter flowering, it is very superior,
being a constant bloomer; a well-grown plant will give
more bloom than two of any other variety ; superior.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 105

IMPERATRICE ELIZABETH. A pretty little striped variety,
which should be in every collection ; truss flat and small ;
foliage cut and fine ; habit creeping ; very pretty for a speci-
men plant, and a free grower in the garden.

DEDHAM BELLE. A good pink, free-flowering variety.

IPHIGENE. Purple, with dark eye ; a superior old
variety.

STV MARGARET. An old popular variety ; color crimson
scarlet ; truss and flower good ; always a free bloomer, and
well worthy of cultivation.

GLORY OF AMERICA. A first-class verbena for the gar-
den ; always a mass of bloom ; crimson.

LORD RAGLAN (Banks' s). Dark crimson, with dark eye ;
a fine flower ; but the plant is of slow growth, and a poor
bloomer.

LORD RAGLAN (De Fosse's). Light pearl color; pecu-
liar ; good for spring blooming.

MADELINE PARFUME. Like the last ; fine for the garden,
but useless in the green-house.

MRS. ARCHER CLIVE. A first-class variety ; color rich
carmine, shading to dark eye ; equally fine for green-house
or open culture.

MRS. HOLFORD. A fine white ; growth strong ; very

106 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

fine for garden blooming, but very late in the green-house ;
superior.

STRIPED ECLIPSE. An old variety, of very rambling
habit, very good, but now little cultivated.

STANDARD BEARER. Rich plum color, with white eye ;
a very desirable and beautiful variety.

VICOMPTESSE EMELYN. Color white, shading to dark ;
well-defined eye ; a free flowerer ; by far the finest of its
class; does not propagate easily.

JENNY LIND. A pretty white and purple-eyed variety.

Verbenas may be grown to advantage in the garden,
either in masses, as single plants, or upon rock-work ; many
pretty effects may be produced by a careful ' arrangement of
colors ; they are also well adapted for hanging pots and for
vases, in which they will bloom profusely.

There is no flower which, if properly grown, will better
repay the care required, and none which will show so well
with but little attention, and we trust that these few
remarks may lead to a more careful cultivation of this beau-
tiful plant.

THE HELIOTROPE.

This plant is always admired for its fragrance, and will
ever be a favorite for window culture.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 107

It is a native of Peru, and has been in our gardens since
the year 1757.

The details of culture are similar to those prescribed for
the verbena ; the soil should be strong loam, with a little
sand and manure.

The heliotrope is seldom grown as well as it should be.
It should have frequent re-pottings, and be allowed to grow
large. We have seen them in parlors, in large tubs on
wheels, and eight feet high. Such plants are in themselves
bouquets of beauty, being always covered with flowers.
Train the main stems of the plant to a trellis, and let the
branches droop naturally, and as they will gracefully. The
plant bears the knife well, and breaks freely, so it can be
trained into any shape.

The common variety is H. corymbosum, then the oldest,
H. Peruvianum ; H. Volterianum is a fine dark variety,
.but not so strong growing.

Florists' catalogues contain many varieties, but the above
are the best for general culture.

THE SALVIA.

This plant is only valuable as a window plant in summer
and early autumn. The chief variety cultivated is the Scarlet

108 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

Mexican Sage (S. splendens), introduced from Mexico about
forty years ago. It is a rank growing shrub, with long,
jointed stalks, crowned with rich, scarlet flowers. The best
way to grow it is to set the plant in rich soil in the garden
in spring. . It will grow vigorously. About the last of
September pot it (it transplants easily), shade it for a few
days, then remove it to a sunny window, where it will
delight you with its brilliant blossoms for two months.
Then keep it cool until spring, and repeat the operation
until the plant becomes so large as to be unmanageable ;
then spring cuttings must be taken off and rooted.

The proper soil is, three parts loam, one leaf mould,
one manure, with a sprinkling of sand.

Salvia patens is an exquisite blue flowered variety. It
blooms well in the garden in summer, and the fleshy roots
may be preserved like a dahlia through the winter.

There are many other fine varieties.

THE TROP^OLUM.

This flower, from its earliest discovery and introduction,
has been a popular favorite. As year by year newer varieties
have been discovered, or finer seedlings raised from old
favorites, it has steadily advanced in favor, till now, the

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 109

rich man's choicest green-house and the poor man's garden
alike boast some of the varieties of this beautiful plant. In
the limits of a short article, like the present, it will be
impossible, of course, to give a detailed description, or even
to mention all the varieties ; many are only desirable in a
collection, being of inferior beauty ; while others are rare,
or of difficult culture, and therefore found only in the green-
houses of amateurs.

The different varieties of tropaeolum divide themselves
into three distinct classes. First, those with bulbous, or
rather tuberous roots, such as Tropceolum azureum and
others. Second, those with large, round leaves, and large
showy, often coarse, flowers, as the various varieties of Tro-
pceolum majus. Third, those with small, delicate, regu-
larly-formed flowers, with smaller leaves, and more of climb-
ing rather than trailing habit, such as T. Lobbianum.
We are aware that this division is imperfect; that some
varieties partake of the characteristics of more than one
class, and that others are with difficulty included in any of
the three ; and to any one acquainted with all the different
varieties, the difficulty of classification will be at once
apparent. We shall, therefore, only attempt this general
division ; leaving a particular description to be given when
10

110

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

we treat of each variety. The soil to be used in the culture
of the tropseolum is, for the bulbous varieties, leaf-mould
and peat, with an admixture of fine sand ; for the other
classes, an addition of more sand is to be advised, as care
must be taken not to enrich the soil too highly, for in a rich
soil, with plenty of room to develop the roots, the plants are
apt to run all to leaves. This may be prevented in two
ways, either by giving a poor soil, or by allowing the roots
to become " pot-bound," and nourishing the plant by slight
waterings of liquid manure ; they generally fail to give
satisfaction if the soil is close, heavy, and binding. All
the varieties, we believe, are readily propagated by cuttings,
and many produce seed in abundance. Some succeed better
if allowed to trail on the ground ; others are so delicate as
to need constant attention and careful training. Some are
hardy in England, though to our knowledge none have ever
been able to survive our severe winters in the open ground,
or protected in frames. All the varieties are of the most
rapid growth, and are mostly free flowerers ; none are desti-
tute of some beauty, while the greater number are remark-
able for the combinations of dazzling colors which they
afford. The prevailing color is yellow in its different
shades ; next, red ; then dark ; and lastly, a most extraor-

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. Ill

dinary fact, which puzzled the botanists, a beautiful blue.
It had been asserted and argued, with great show of reason,
that a flower, of which all the known varieties, or the gen-
eral types, were of red, yellow, or cognate colors, could, by
no possibility, be found related to a plant with blue flowers,
or could there be a blue flowering plant in the same class.
The discovery of a blue tropaeolum, in 1844, completely
refuted this theory. In the treatment of the tropaeolum, it
is essential for the good health of the plants that they
should enjoy plenty of light and air ; without this, they can-
not fail to become sickly or unsightly from faded leaves and
small flowers. A supply of water should be given with the
syringe, overhead, occasionally, which will conduce to the
vigor of the plant, and destroy the red spider, which some-
times attacks the leaves. The plant, in all its varieties, is
remarkably free from disease or insects ; we have occasion-
ally had the more delicate varieties troubled by green fly,
and by mealy bug, but very little care will prevent this.
The chief danger seems to lie in the decaying of the roots
by over-watering when in growth, or by not withholding
water when they are in a state of rest. These remarks, of
course, apply only to the bulbous varieties. Sometimes we
have known the roots of the summer-blooming varieties to

112 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

be attacked by the root aphis, but this is unfrequent. The
foliage is of too fiery a taste to be subject to the attacks of
insects.

With these few remarks we will proceed to the descrip-
tion of the different varieties, noting any peculiarity in the
habits of each, or any peculiar mode of culture which may
be best adapted to its nature.

The oldest and best known variety is TROP^EOLTIM MAJTJS,
the common nasturtium of our gardens — a native of Peru,
but very early introduced. This occurs in a variety of
colors, and under a variety of names. The colors are
chiefly red, yellow, very dark, and all the intermediate
shades ; or, again, red upon yellow in .spots, shadings,
stripes, or bands, or yellow upon red or dark ground.
Scarce two flowers, unless self-colored, will be found alike,
and there is no prettier sight than a flower bed filled with
this variety, the various colored flowers contrasting finely
with the large round leaves. At any seed store, varieties
may be obtained ; and by a little care in planting the seeds,
a beautiful effect may be produced. This species is of the
easiest culture, and will grow almost without care ; it is
well adapted for covering rock-work, or any unsightly spot,
producing from the latter part of June until • killed by the

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 113

frost, a constant succession of brilliant flowers and orna-
mental foliage. All the varieties of this species are annual,
and are propagated either by seeds, which are freely pro-
duced, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood, which root freely
in sand.

TuoPuEOLUM MAJUS ATROSANGTJiNEUM is only a very fine
variety, as its name implies, of the above. It was intro-
duced into England as early as the year 1684. The
required soil is light and rich ; it flowers freely ; increased
by seeds and cuttings.

It would be useless to attempt a description of the
varieties of Tropceolum majus • so constantly do they
change, that each year, as newer seedlings are produced,
the older are forgotten and lost. All are well worthy of
cultivation, and some of the varieties should be in every
garden. We have seen a double variety, but it was evi-
dently a mere sport, which was only propagated and pre-
served as a curiosity in a collection ; the colors were con-
fused, and the blossom destitute of beauty.

We pass now to the varieties of Tropceolum minus, being
those comprised in our last class, and seemingly only
reduced specimens of Tropceolum majus. We have seen it
stated that this variety was introduced before Tropceolum

114 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

majus, but we believe the best authorities agree on the
latter being the oldest known variety. Be this as it may,
both were known in Europe at a very early period. The
plants of Tropceolum minus, and its varieties, may always
be distinguished from those of Tropceolum majus, and its
varieties, by the leaves ; in the former, the nerves of the
leaves always end in a point, which is never the case with
those of the latter.

TEOP^EOLTJM LOBBIANUM, sometimes called T. peltoplw-
rum. One of the very finest ; first collected by Mr. .Lobb,
in Columbia. A rampant grower, and free flowerer in the
green-house ; color of flowers, orange scarlet. The tem-
perature of the house to bloom it well, should be kept
about fifty degrees ; a slight watering of liquid manure should
occasionally be given. It does not succeed well with us in
the open border ; our summers are too short, and the plants
are apt to be nipped by the frost just as they are fully set
with flower buds ; it strikes freely from cuttings, and pro-
duces seed sparingly. Most of our fine, new varieties are
probably hybrids between this and the following.

TKOP^EOLITM PULCHERRIMUM. Like the last, a rampant
grower ; color of flowers, bright yellow, with starry rays of
orange scarlet at the base of the petal ; a free flowerer in
the green-house. Culture like the last.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 115

TROPJEOLTJM SMITHII. A brilliant red variety, a native
of the high mountains of Columbia ; treat as T. majus ;
will bloom well in the open border.

TROPJEOLUM RANDII. A very fine seedling of Mr.
Joseph Breck's ; a very vigorous grower ; the writer has, in
one summer, had one side of a large green-house covered by
a small plant. This variety has the desirable property of
blooming equally well as a border plant in the summer and
in the green-house in winter. The color of the flower is
brilliant yellow ; the base of each petal marked with a
round black spot ; the flowers are often veined with purplish
red,. sometimes very deeply, and, from a large plant, often
dozens of bloss.oms, all of different shades, may be gathered;
this is particularly the case in the green-house ; *in the bor-
der, the colors are more constant. This is probably from
its abundant flowers and free habit, the most popular
variety of its color, among gardeners for bouquet purposes,
and, though of comparatively recent introduction, is very
widely disseminated. Propagated by cuttings ; produces
seed sparingly.

TROPJEOLTJM PEKIGKINTIM, ADUNCTTM, or CAISTAKIENSE,
commonly known as canary-bird flower. A very lovely and
popular variety ; grows about ter feet high, and blooms well

116 PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING.

if the soil is not too rich. It is commonly cultivated as a
summer border plant, but will bloom well in the green-
house. To this end, plants should be struck during the
summer, and grown with plenty of light and air ; let the
soil be loam, and well rotted manure, with a little sand ;
do not give the roots too much pot room, and water occa-
sionally with liquid manure. Plants may also be raised
from seed, but they flower less freely than those struck from
cuttings. This lovely variety is too well known to need
description.

We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant,
because it is the best climbing window plant we have.
Give it sun, and it will be a mass of bloom all winter. A
pretty way'is to train it up the side and across the window
on strings. Do not, however, give it a very large pot, or it
will all run to leaves. It should also have a sandy soil.

.... All Eden bright,

With these, her holy offspring, creations of the light ;
As though some gentle angel, commissioned love to bear,
Had wandered o'er the greensward, and left her footprints
there.

CHAPTER V.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

ROSES. CHINA ROSE: History. — Description. — Soil.— Pruning-. — Wa-
tering. — Varieties. TEA ROSE : History. — Culture. — Varieties.
BOURBON ROSES: History.— Culture.— Varieties. PINKS: Indian
Pink. — Carnation.— Difference between Carnation and Picotee.— Classes.
— • Soil. — Potting. — Care of Flowers. — Culture out of doors. — Prop-

(117)

118 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

agation. — Layers. — Pipings. — List of Carnations and Picotees. FUCH-
SIAS : History. — Growth. — How to direct it. — Wintering. — Soil. —
Varieties.

i N continuing our list of plants adapt-
ed for window gardening, we come
to the queen of flowers, the Rose.
A book, rather than a portion of
a chapter, should be devoted to this
flower ; but as our space is limited, we must
with a word, dismiss the large divisions of
June, Hardy or Hybrid Perpetuals, Pro-
vence, Damask, Galic, Moss, Climbing, Austrian,
Noisette, and Banksian Roses, each of which would require
a separate treatise, and confine ourselves to the China,
Bourbon, and Tea families.

Many of the others are of great value for the green-
house, some being, in our climate, purely green-house
roses, and others being invaluable for forcing ; but none
succeed with parlor culture, though many are well known
in the garden, and may claim more than a passing mention
when we come to the concluding portion of our book,
the Flower Garden and Shrubbery.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 119

CHINA ROSE.

And, first, the China rose. While treating of paren-
tage, we may also include the tea rose, which, with the
China, comes from the same ancestor, the Rosa Indica and
its varieties. From this stock come all the China and tea-
scented roses, which, by skilful hybridization, are now so
multiplied that already their name is legion. Prop-
erly speaking, the three roses which are the oldest, and
may be considered parents of the race, are Rosa Indica,
the common Chinese rose, R. semperflorens, the crimson or
sanguinea rose, and JR. odorata, the Chinese or sweet-
scented tea rose.

The China rose and its hybrids are usually stout growing,
and sometimes of a close, twiggy habit. With us they
will not endure the winter without protection, but south of
Baltimore, stand out uninjured.

They are the common rose of window gardening, and
are known as " monthly roses." The colors vary from
white to deep crimson or red, running through all the
shades of blush and pink.

They are often exposed for sale in early spring at the
corners of streets and in the market places, every little

120 ' PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

shoot being crowned with a bud or flower. The foliage is
generally smooth, glossy, and fine cut, clothing every little
twig, and of a lively, fresh appearance.

It will survive almost any treatment, and will live if but
a ray of sunlight can reach it. It is the poor man's friend,
and clings to him in every vicissitude ; yet, while possess-
ing adaptability to circumstances in a remarkable degree,
no plant will better repay care and attention. Cleanliness,
washing, and syringing are essential to good health ; give
plenty of light, and it will repay you by abundance of
bloom. Though as its common names (daily or monthly
rose) imply, it will not Uoom every day, yet there will sel-
dom be a day when it will not have a flower or a bud
upon it. It will ask you, too, for an occasional smoking ;
for the green fly is very fond of the delicate juices of its
young shoots, and this indeed of all roses.
* Do not give it too large a pot. Roses will do well in
smaller pots, in proportion to their size, than almost any

other plant.

SOIL.

•
Yet the soil must be rich and well mixed. It should

consist of four parts of the richest black loam, or leaf
mould, two parts of well-rotted manure, with a slight ad-

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 121

mixture of fine sand. This soil should not be sifted, but
lumpy, yet well mixed together.

In potting, as much of the old soil as can be taken off
without breaking the roots, should be removed, and the
plant set just up to the neck or collar, on the new soil ;
settle the earth well around the plant, and give a gentle
watering from the fine rose of a watering pot. Pruning
should be done as required ; the eyes will break any where ;
therefore, whenever a branch becomes too long or un-
sightly, cut it in ; there need be no fear of injuring the
plant.

If they have been planted out in the garden during the
summer, on removal to the house in the autumn they will
need a severe pruning. Cut off the young wood to within
a few inches of the old wood, and give the plants a little
rest, by giving less water and little heat ; when you wish
them to bloom, bring them into full sunlight, give more *
heat, and, as soon as the young branches have begun to
push, give plenty of water. Every eye will produce a
shoot, crowned with one or more buds ; after blooming,
shorten in the blooming branches about one half; new eyes
will push, and a second display of bloom be the result. In
watering roses, care must be taken not to render the soil
11

122 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

cold and sodden ; water should never stand round the
roots ; frequent stirring of the surface of the soil is very
beneficial. A few bits of charcoal, broken fine and mixed
with the earth, will impart the richest brilliancy to the
flowers.

The following list of China roses will be found to include
the best old varieties. New hybrids are constantly pro-
duced, and all of this class make good window plants.
China roses are called also " Bengal '' roses.

List of China Roses.
%

1. Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superieur. Rich, velvety crimson, very

double.

2. La Superbe. Purple crimson, very double, flowers always opening
well.

3. Eels Blush. A profuse bloomer ; flowers large and double, resem-
bling a tea rose.

4. Indica, or Common Daily. Dark blush or rose color ; free grower
and profuse bloomer. This is the common "monthly rose."

5. Indica Alba. A white variety of the last, of more slender growth,
but double and free flowering.

6. A dwarf form of JR. Indica, called " Fairy Rose," Tom Thumb,
Lawrenceana, is a pretty little miniature rose, very double, and about as
large as a dime or half dime.

7. Mrs. Bousanquet. Creamy blush, very fine; by some classed as a
Bourbon, which it seems to be. It is very distinct from other Chinas.

8. Semper flor ens, or " ' Sanguinca." Very double; cupped; rich
crimson. Every where grown and appreciated.

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 123

9. Jacksonia. Bright red, very double. •

10. Louis Philippe. Dark crimson; globular.

11. Eugene Hardy. White, changing to blush.

12. Eugene Beauharnqi*.- Bright amaranth, very fine form, and
fragrant.

There are many others which may bo found in florists'
catalogues.

For one rose for bloom, choose No. 8 ; for two, Nos. 8
and 3 ; for three, Nos. 8, 3, and 12 ; for four, add No. 4 ;
for five, add No. 2; for six, No. 9 or 1.

TEA ROSES.

The original rose (JR. odoratci) was only introduced about
1812, and from this have sprung our many fine varieties.
The treatment required is identical with that of the China
rose ; yet a richer soil, and more heat and light, may be
afforded to advantage. The former is easily done by in-
creasing the proportion of manure in potting.

They also need more care, and are not so patient under
neglect. For summer bedding in the garden, they are un-
surpassed. Usually their growth is more delicate and
graceful than that of the China varieties.

The following list includes some of the best varieties,
which may be relied upon for window or garden growth.

124 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

They will not bear our winters unprotected. This list
may be multiplied fourfold from catalogues : —

1. Adam. Bright pink ; large and cupped.

2. Comte de Paris. Creamy rose ; large and fine.

3. Caroline. Bright, rosy pink or flesh-colored ; large and very fine.

4. Gloire de Dijon. Yellow, shaded with salmon and rose ; an im-
mense flower ; very full ; not always opening well with window culture ;
by some, considered a " Bourbon."

5. Clara Sylvain. Pure white ; double ; very fragrant.

6. Yellow Tea. Pale yellow ; long, beautiful bud ; very fine.

7. Elise Sauvage. Bright yellow, fading to white ; large and fine.

8. Madame Desprez. White ; very fragrant.

9. Safrano. Fawn color or saffron ; sometimes rosy ; not very
double, but fine in the bud.

10. Triomphe de Luxembourg. Buff salmon, shading to rose.

11. Souvenir d'un Ami. Rose and salmon ; fine.

12. Goubault Rose. Yellow centre ; large and fine.

13. Le Pactole. Lemon yellow ; very fine.

14. Bougere. Browzy, rosy lilac ; a strong grower.

15. Odorata. Fine blush, well cupped.

For one rose of this class, for window culture, we should select
No. 15 ; then add No. 9, No. 12, No. 14, No. 5, No. 2, No. 1.

BOURBON ROSES.

The union of the Damask Perpetual with the China rose
has produced the new and distinct race known as Bour-
bons. They have a peculiar habit and foliage, are free,
vigorous growers, and much hardier than the China rose.
In the Middle States, they are perfectly hardy, and will

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 125

endure our winters with but slight protection. As bedders,
they are unsurpassed, and bloom during the whole summer.
They are usually wintered in frames, like the China . and
tea roses. For window gardening, they are not as suitable
as those species, yet their beauty renders them worthy of a
permanent place, where space can be given, and for green-
house and conservatory blooming, they are magnificent.

Their treatment is identical with that of the species
above described.

The following are fine varieties : —

Bouquet de Flore. Light, rosy carmine.

Dr. Roque. Purplish crimson.

Gloire de Dijon. See tea roses.

Madame Desprez. See tea roses.

Dupetit Thouars. Bright crimson ; very showy.

Leveson Gower. Deep rose ; very large.

Souvenir de la Mahnaison. Pale flesh color, very large and fine.

Queen of Bourbons. Fawn-colored blush ; a free bloomer.

Sir Joseph Paxton. Deep rose ; very fine.

Paul Joseph. Purplish violet.

Hermosa. Light blush or rose color ; very fine form.

George Peabodi/. Dark, velvety crimson.

Mrs. Bosanquct. Pale flesh color ; good form ; very fine.

The most satisfactory method of growing roses is to
build a small pit for them. Plant them out in a rich soil,
and they will bloom summer and winter. Very little heat
11*

126 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

is required to winter them safely, and the sashes being
entirely removed in summer, all the benefit of growth in
the . open air is obtained. On the approach of frosty
nights, the sashes are put on, and the roses bloom all

winter.

THE PINK.

Next to the rose, this is a favorite flower, and as a win-
dow plant, does equally well in spring and summer.

We shall at once dismiss the garden, Indian, and florists'
or Paisley pinks, and confine ourselves to the carnation and
picotee, these being the varieties for window culture.

Yet a word for the double crimson Indian pink. It is a
pretty little flower, always in bloom, and only needs light
and a rich loam to make it a beautiful window plant.

The best way to procure it is to buy seed ; sow it in the
spring, in the garden, and on the approach of frost, pot
the plants for winter blooming. It may then be easily
increased by slips or layering.

The carnation pink is a very old inhabitant of our gar-
dens. It is said to have been introduced into cultiva-
tion from Italy or Germany before 1510.

The question is often asked, What is the difference be-
tween a carnation and a picotee ? None, botanically ; it is

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 127

purely a florist's distinction. The carnation has the marks
on its petals, from the centre to the edge, in flakes or
stripes of colors, on a white ground. The picotee has a
white or yellow ground, the edges of the petals being
fringed with various shades of red and purple.

Carnations are divided into five classes, namely:
1. Scarlet Bizarres ; 2. Pink or Crimson Bizarres ; 3. Scar-
let Flakes ; 4. Rose Flakes ; 5. Purple Flakes.

Bizarre is derived from the French, meaning odd or
irregular. The flowers in these classes have three colors,
which are irregularly placed on each petal. Scarlet Bizarres
have that color predominating over the purple or crimson ;
but the Pink or Crimson Bizarres have more of these colors
than the Scarlet. Scarlet Flakes are simple white grounds,
with distinct stripes or ribbons of scarlet. Rose and Pur-
ple Flakes have these two colors upon a white ground.

Picotees are divided into seven classes : 1 . Red, heavy-
edged ; 2. Red, light-edged ; 3. Rose, heavy-edged ;
4. Rose, light-edged ; 5. Purple, heavy-edged ; 6. Purple,
light-edged; 7. Yellow ground, without any distinction as
to the breadth of the edge color.

Pinks, both picotees and carnations, are of little use as
house plants until well into the spring; if, however, they

128 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

are grown, they should be kept cool, and rather dry ; there
is nothing gained by trying to force them. The best
method of growing them is in the open border, preserving
them in a cold frame through the winter. If grown in
pots, they are much more difficult of management. In the
open border, they bloom in June, July, and later, and are
an indispensable ornament. We do not recommend the
pink as a window flower, but have been constrained to
include it in our list, as it is a favorite flower.

The rules we give are very full, and apply both to the
window, the cold frame, and the garden ; they are com-
piled from English authorities, and possess little claim to
originality.

PROPAGATION AND GENERAL TREATMENT.

Soil for Culture in Pots. Get the turf from an upland
pasture ; take off about three inches thick, and keep it in
a heap for a year, to cause the grass roots to decay and
mellow the soil ; chop it, and turn it over four or five times
during the year ; it will be in finer condition for use.
During this, the worms and grubs, especially wire worms,
should be picked out, for it is frequently the case that the
soil best adapted to the carnation contains its greatest

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 129

enemy. Before being used, the soil should be passed
through a coarse sieve or screen, and the fibre rubbed
through with the soil. The soil in which the plants are
bloomed, and that in which they are kept in small pots
through the winter, should be different, for in the latter they
are not required to make much progress, and the less they
are excited in autumn and winter the better, provided they
make steady progress and .preserve their health. This can
only be secured by abstaining from the use of stable dung,
using pure loam, and such decayed vegetable matter as is
afforded by the grass naturally growing in loam when the
turves are cut. Neither should the loam be too adhesive,
but sufficiently porous to allow the water to percolate
freely ; should it not be so naturally, a little sand may be
used to lighten it. In preparing the soil for blooming the
plants, take of this loam three parts, well decomposed leaf
mould one part, thoroughly rotted cow dung one part (if
this cannot be obtained, hot-bed manure, well decomposed,
in fact, reduced to a fine, black mould, may be substituted),
and of sandy peat, one part. A small portion of old lime
rubbish, slightly sifted, will be of service to the plant,
mixed among the compost. Being duly mixed, in sufficient
quantity, let it be brought under shelter to dry some time
before the potting season.

130 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

On receiving the plants from the nursery, if in the fall,
they should be potted, as above, in four-inch pots, giving
two inches of crocks at the bottom for drainage, and nearly
filling the pot with the earth, but highest in the middle,
and spreading the roots as much as possible all around
alike. The soil is only just to cover the roots, and to be
pressed gently to them, and in this state, after watering, to
settle the loam about their roots, they should be placed in a
common garden frame, upon a hard bottom, into which the
waste water, when refreshed, cannot soak, but Math a very
gentle slope, that any water which runs through the pots
may run away. In the winter management, the chief
object is, to give all the air they can have in mild weather
by taking the lights off; to give them water very seldom,
and never till they absolutely want it. If to be grown in
pots, .they should be re-potted early in twelve-inch pots,
two or three plants in a pot, using the soil above directed.
Let there be at least three inches drainage. In putting
them in those large pots, let the ball of earth be turned
out whole, rub off a little of the surface, and, after having
filled the large pot high enough with the compost, place the
ball so that the collar of the plant, which is just above the
surface of the old ball, be within half an inch of the edge

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 131

of the pot ; put the soil around it ; press it down between
the ball and the side, and fill the whole up level with the
collar of the plant and the edge of the pot. Let them all
be placed in a sheltered spot, and refreshed with water
when they require it, which will be more or less frequently,
according as the season be dry or wet. Let each pot have
a stake in the centre, to which the plants may be closely
tied as they rise up for bloom. When they show their
buds, remove all but three, and the flowers will be the
finer, and not more than one blooming shoot may be left on
each plant. When the buds have swollen, and are about
to burst, tie a piece of bass matting round the middle, and
carefully open the calyx down to the tie, at all the divisions,
as the flower can then open all around alike ; otherwise,
they frequently burst on one side, and it is then difficult to
form an even flower. As the petals develop themselves,
they should be shaded from the sun and rain, either of
which would damage the flowers. Culture in pots is sel-
dom resorted to in this country, unless it be for exhibition
purposes ; and it is for the benefit of amateurs, who wish
to grow them for that purpose, that we have given such
minute directions.

Culture in Beds and the Flower Border. This is the

132 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

most common method in this country, culture in pots being
attended with more trouble, and occupying more time, than
can usually be given.

They succeed admirably in any good garden loam, pro-
vided it is well drained ; wet or moisture, when over
abundant, is very injurious. The soil should be trenched
to the depth of eighteen inches in the fall, enriching it at
the same time with leaf mould and cow's manure, thor-
oughly rotted ; should the soil be heavy, an addition of
refuse charcoal, lime rubbish, or sand, will be beneficial,
leaving the surface rough, that the frost of winter may act
upon it. In the spring, the beds should be again thor-
oughly spaded to the depth of one foot, and raked smooth ;
after which the plants should be turned out of the pots,
leaving the ball entire, and planted two feet apart each
way. The after treatment may be the same as recom-
mended for pot culture.

Projmgation. By layers and pipings, for increasing
approved sorts, and by seed for the production of new
varieties.

By Layers. The time for performing this operation is
when the plants are in full bloom, or a little past. The
Bhoots of the plant, around the bottom, should then be

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 133

brought down to the ground, and, when rooted, separated
from their parent. The materials needed for layering are a
sharp, small knife, a quantity of notched pegs, and some
finely-sifted soil. Choose a dull, cloudy day on which to
perform this work ; or, if the plants are in pots, they may
be layered in any weather. Begin by trimming off the
leaves from the bottom of a shoot, leaving the two upper-
most on, and entire. Trim off the 'lower leaves on every
shoot before layering one, because, when a layer is tongued,
it is easily broken off. When this is done, take hold of
the shoot, turn it up, and pass the knife blade through the
third joint upward, commencing the cut just below it ; then
reach a hooked peg, thrust it into the soil, catching hold,
by its hook, of the layer as it descends, and press it gently
down to the soil. Do the next in the same manner, and
so on until every shoot is layered, then cover them all witi\
the sifted mould, about three quarters of an inch deep, and

the process is completed ; then give a slight watering, and

i
the layers require no further care, but watering, until they

are rooted, which will be in about a month or six weeks.
When sufficiently rooted, pot them off into five-inch pots,
a pair in each ; or, if your space is limited, and the layers
small, three may be put into each pot. After they are
12

134 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

potted, they should be placed under glass, in a cold frame
or pit, plenty of air given in mild weather, and shelter from
severe frost, when it occurs. Very little water is required
during the winter months, and the air in the frames should
be as dry as possible. Should damp prevail, the plants,
some fine day, should be taken out, and a coat of fine, dry
coal ashes spread over the surface. The plants should then
be replaced in the pit.

By Pipings. Carnations may be propagated by this
mode, where there is the convenience of a gentle hot-bed.
It is, however, not so safe as layering ; but when there are
more shoots than can be layered, and it is desirable to
propagate largely, the superfluous shoots may be piped.
Cut off the lower part of the shoot, up to the third joint,
trim off the lowest pair of leaves, and pass the knife just
through the joint. Prepare a pot, by draining it, and filling
it with the compost up to within an inch of the top ; fill
that inch with silver sand, water it gently to make it firm,
and then insert the piping all around it, close to the pot
sides ; place them in a gentle hot-bed, shading from the
sun ; watch them daily, and supply water when the sand
becomes dry. When they are rooted, which they will
show by sending up fresh leaves, pot them in pairs,

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 135

as directed for layers, and treat them in the same
manner.

By Seeds. The seeds may be sown, during the spring
months, in boxes or pans filled with the same description
of soil as before recommended. Let the surface of the soil
be made even, and the seed, evenly scattered over it, cover
them to the depth of a quarter of an inch with finely sifted
mould. If early in the season, the pans may be put in a
moderate hot-bed, just to cause the seeds to germinate, but
must not be long kept there for fear of weakening and
drawing the plants. Without artificial heat, the seeds may
be sown in May, placing the pans or boxes in an open, airy
part of the garden, but shaded from the sun, at least from
ten in the morning till four in the afternoon. Moderate
moisture will be indispensable, but if the soil be kept too
wet, the plants are liable to damp off, or to be otherwise
injured. When the plants have acquired six leaves, and
are about two inches high, they should be pricked out in
rows six inches apart, keeping them well watered until they
have taken fresh root. About the beginning of October,
they should be potted for the convenience of wintering.
Plant out in the spring, in a bed prepared as before
directed. As soon as the blossoms can be seen, all the

136

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

single sorts should be taken up and thrown away, to give
the double ones more room to grow. The finer blossoms
ought then to be selected for layering or piping.

The following list comprises a few of the varieties : —

CARNATIONS.
Admiral Curzon,
Coriolanus,
General Simpson,
King of Carnations,
Falconbridge,
Acca,

Squire Trow,
Valentine,
Benedict.

PICOTEES.
Esther,
Prince Albert,
Amy Robsart,
Haidee,
Ophelia,
Princess Royal,
Lamia,

Duke of Newcastle,
Ganymede.

THE FUCHSIA.

If by a window plant we mean one which blooms in
winter, then the Fuchsia is not a window plant. A few
solitary blooms may be produced during the spring, but the
summer is its season of glory.

As a pot plant, for summer blooming, it is unsurpassed,
being very floriferous, of brilliant foliage, and symmetrical
habit. All of our garden varieties are hybrids, from
ancestors introduced from South America and Mexico.
Strange to say, there is a New Zealand species also. The

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 137

first, F. coccinea, was introduced from Chili, just before the
year 1800.

The plant is of the easiest culture ; the growth is rapid,
and a young spring cutting will make a large plant by
autumn. The secret of growing the plant is, never to let
it stop growing until you have it of the desired blooming
size ; keep re-potting, as soon as the roots touch the pot,
until you get it into a twelve-inch pot, which is large
enough for the window blooming of a fuchsia. Give plenty
of light and air ; turn the plant frequently, lest it grow
one-sided, and fumigate when needed to kill green fly.
The best form to grow "a young plant is the pyramidal.
Train up a leading shoot, and if the plant is supplied with
pot room and plenty of light, and has not heat enough to
draw it out weak, it will form side shoots in sufficient
abundance to produce a handsome outline, the branches
being allowed to take their own pendent form. The plant
may also be prettily grown on a flat trellis. The best place
for a fuchsia in winter is a dry cellar, free from frost,
where they should be kept nearly dry. About the first of
March prune back all the side shoots, and leave only the
upright stem ; prune in the roots also, and re-pot them in
as small a pot as will hold the roots ; as the eyes break,
12*

138 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

thin out those which are not needed, leaving enough to
give plenty of side. branches. Re-pot, and treat as above

directed.

SOIL.

One part of peat, one of loam, and one of leaf mould
will grow them well ; thoroughly mix the component parts,
and break it rather fine ; be careful to secure good

drainage. .

VARIETIES.

Every spring gives us a host of new varieties, most of
which are discarded in a few years. The white corollaed
varieties are generally of weak growth, and not adapted for
culture out of the green-house. Those with a double co-
rolla we do not admire ; the multiplication of floral leaves
detracts much from the simple beauty of the flower ; they
are, however, valuable in a collection, and very showy.

Fuchsia coccinea is a pretty species, with purple and
white sepals and corolla.

Fuchsia serratifolia, a species with scarlet tube, tipped
with green, blooming in winter.

There are some twenty other species, which are beautiful
in a green-house, but valueless for window growth.

The following hybrid varieties are all fine : —

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 139

Venus de Medicis. Tube white, sepals blush white, corolla deep blue;
fine habit.

Etoile du Nord. Bright scarlet sepals and tube ; corolla black violet,
with short, reflexed sepals.

Souvenir de CJdswick. Tube and sepals rosy, crimson, violet; co-
rolla fine.

Ajax. A fine, dark variety.

Empress Eugenie. Crimson sepals, white corolla.

England's Glory. Fine white ; scarlet corolla.

Globosa. Scarlet; purple corolla.

Glory. Crimson ; violet corolla.

Lady of the Lake. Crimson blush ; white corolla.

Mrs. Story. Scarlet sepals ; white corolla.

Wonderful. Scarlet tube and sepals ; violet corolla.

Queen Victoria, La Crinoline, Omar Pasha, Nil Desperandum, Duch-
ess of Lancaster, Climax, Guiding Star, Rose of Castile, Roi des Blancs,
Prince Frederic William, are all fine varieties.

Bring flowers

They speak of Hope to the fainting heart;

With a voice of promise they come and part.

They sleep in dust through the winter hours ;

They break forth in glory! Bring flowers, bright flowers.

CHAPTER VI.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED.

MYRTLE : History. — Soil.— Culture.— Varieties. ACH/ENIA : Ease „!
growing. — Soil. ABUTILON : Culture. — Soil. — Varieties. THUNBER-
GIA : Sowing. — Training. — Insects. — Soil. — Varieties. ALOYSIA, OB
LEMON VERBEXA : Culture. — Soil. — Watering. CALLAJ Resting, -s
Blooming. — Soil. CUPHEA : Culture.— Potting. — Soil. CACTUS: Dl
visions of the Family. — Cereus > Summer Treatment. — Pruning. — Wa

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

141

tering. — Varieties ofCereus. — Epiphyllum: Soil. — Varieties. HYDRAN-
GEA: Culture. — Soil. — Effect of Iron. AGAPANTHUS: Soil.— Win-
tering-. — Watering. — Varieties. OLEANDER : Flowering. — Soil. — Va-
rieties. PITTOSPORUM : Varieties. — Soil. JASMINE: Soil. — Culture.

— Water. — Varieties. CALCEOLARIA : Sowing. — After Culture. — Soil.
MAHERNIA: Description.— Soil. — Varieties. PRIMULA: Sowing.—
Treatment. — Soil.— Description. SOLANUJM: A Parlor Ornament.—
Culture. — Soil. LAURESTINUS : Description. — Washing. HOYA :
Description. — Flowering. — Watering. CHRYSANTHEMUMS : Culture.

— Watering. — Soil. — Varieties. BEGONIA : Varieties. — Situation.—
Watering. — Soil.

THE MYRTLE.

>YRTLES are natives of Europe, New
Holland, and China. They are hard-
Avooded, evergreen shrubs, possessing
a peculiar, agreeable fragrance, and
have always been favorites for parlor
culture.

The soil should be three parts loam,
with one part of sand and one of leaf
mould.

They do not require very large pots, and flourish well in
almost any situation.

They require moderate washing, and watering, and plenty
of light and air during the growing season, which is in sum-
mer, \vhen they should be put out of doors in a shady place,

142 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

yet not under the drip of trees. The flowers are usually
white, and produced in profusion in midsummer. M. corn-
mums is the common plant of our parlors, of which there
are many varieties, with small and large leaves, variegated
foliage, and flowers single or double.

M. tenuifolia is a New Holland species ; a fine plant for
parlor culture.

M. toment.osa is a fine Chinese species, with purple
flowers changing to white, so that flowers of many shades
are seen at once on the same plant. It should be more
generally grown, being equally hardy, except it is impatient
of exposure to the hot sun.

ACELENIA.

A. malvaviscus is a beautiful parlor plant, symmetrical in
growth, and producing its brilliant, scarlet flowers in profu-
sion at the end of every branch. These flowers are suc-
ceeded by white berries, changing to bright red, which alone
would make the plant ornamental did it not always display
a profusion of bloom.

The best way to grow the plant is as a pyramid, as thus
the flowers and fruit show to great advantage. Give plenty
*>f snn and light, turning the plant frequently. It is not

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 143

subject to the attacks of insects. Soil, two parts loam, two
leaf mould, with a slight admixture of sand.

ABTJTILON.

This is a race of shrubby, green-house plants, well
adapted for the parlor.

They are free growers, of upright habit, and unless judi-
ciously pruned, will soon outgrow their quarters. They
are natives of South America and New Holland.

The proper soil is, two parts loam, two of leaf mould,
and one of sand. If the soil is too rich, the growth will be
too rapid for the full development of the side branches.
Keep the plant moderately moist. The varieties for parlor
culture are, —

A. venosum, with large yellow flowers with red veins ; A.
JBedfordianum, flowers much of the same character.

A. striatum, one of our prettiest window plants ; always
in bloom, and beautiful from its profusion of pendulous,
veined, red and yellow blossoms all winter.

There are many other varieties, some with white, others
with red flowers, but they are not recommended for house
plants.

144 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

THUNBERGIA.

These pretty plants are usually grown as annuals with us,
for summer decoration in the flower garden, but they also
make fine window plants. For this purpose, sow the seed
in August in pots ; as the plants grow, transplant one to
each pot, and train the slender shoots on a neat trellis.
Give plenty of. sun, and syringe very often, for the plants are
very subject to attacks of red spider. They will show
bloom about the middle of January, and produce a profusion
during the winter and spring months. The plants will show
bud very early, but if they are allowed to bloom, growth
will stop ; therefore it is best to pick off all the flower buds
until the plant is of the required size, when they may be
allowed to open.

Cuttings root very freely in sand, under a bell glass.
The soil should be, one part turfy loam, one part peat, one
part well-rotted manure. Water moderately.

The varieties are, —

T. alata, buff yellow, with a black centre ; T. alata
aurantia, deep orange, with black centre ; T. alata alia,
white, with black centre.

There are also some superb hot-house species.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 145

ALOYSIA, OR LEMON VERBENA.

A half-hardy deciduous shrub, from Chili; the only species
is A. citriodora, commonly called Lemon Verbena. It is
valuable only for the fragrance of the leaves, the flowers
being small, whitish lilac, and of little beauty. As a winter
plant it is of no value, as it needs a season of rest, which
must be given it in a cellar free from frost.

The best treatment is, to plant it out in spring in the
flower border, where it will make vigorous growth. In the
fall, before the first frost, remove the plant with a ball of
earth to the cellar. In spring, trim the plant into a neat
shape, and re-plant it. If grown in pots, the proper soil is,
two parts of loam, two of leaf mould, and a slight mixture
of sand. While the plants are growing, give plenty of
water, but withhold it entirely during the winter.

CALLA.

The only plant of this genus, worthy of cultivation, is the
well-known Calla Lily (Ricliardia JEtliiopica}. It is too
familiar to our readers to need, description. To bloom the
plants well, they should have a season of rest, which may be
regulated so as to have bloom at any season, if we have sev-
13

146 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

eral plants. They naturally rest after the blooming season.
When they again begin to grow, re-pot them ; if a plant
with a single stem is required, remove all suckers, other-
wise they will do no harm to remain ; but the plant requir-
ing frequent re-pottings, will soon become so large as to be
unmanageable.

The foliage is peculiarly fine, and the plant is worth
xgrowing for this alone.

If bloom is particularly desired, the best way is to plant
some six or eight roots in the half of an oil cask. Paint it
green, and put on two iron handles ; you thus have a very
cheap, pretty, serviceable, and durable tub. Fill this with
the richest loam, and set the plants, the largest in the mid-
dle, the smaller around the sides, and set the tub on the
piazza or in a grass plat. The plants will bloom during the
summer very freely, and may be wintered in a light cellar
without difficulty.

The proper soil is richest loam and peat well mixed.
When growing, you cannot give the plants too much water.
In the window, if the plants are set in a saucer kept con-
stantly filled with water, they will be the better for it. In
summer, the plant will grow well, and flower profusely out
of doors in a tank.

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 147

CUPHEA.

The only plant of this family, desirable for a window
plant, is the little Mexican C. ignea or platycentra. This
is a sparkling little gem of a plant, always in bloom. Plant
it in the flower border in summer, re-pot in autumn, and all
winter it will gladden you by a profusion of its bright scar-
let tubes tipped with a ring of black and white. The plant
never grows above a foot in height, and is just suited for
the window. Soil, about three parts loam, one each of sand
and manure. Water freely, but do not allow the soil to
become sodden.

CACTUS.

There are seven families of Cacti, containing each a great

n
number of species. Those chiefly grown as parlor plants

come under the families Cereus and EpiphyUum. The for-
mer family is a native of all dry, tropical regions of the
western continent.

The soil most suitable is, two parts peat, one part broken
potsherds, broken coarse, one part loam or old mortar rub-
bish, and one part manure ; mix these well together and
secure good drainage.

During the summer, the plants should stand out of doors

148 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

in a sheltered place, from the time they have done flowering
until September. Then remove them to the house, all parts
of shoots having no bloom buds (they are easily seen along
the leaves) being cut back to just beyond the buds. The
plants should be confined to six or eight strong stems ;
while these are in good health, the growth of shoots from
the roots is not to be encouraged.

Give the plants no water from September until February ;
while in growth, water moderately. They bloom from May
to August.

Some of the varieties are, —

C. Speciosissimus. Crimson and purple flowers.

C. Flagelliformis. Rose flowers. This variety should be allowed to
droop, and not be pruned.

C. Grandiflorus is the night-blooming Cereus; flowers yellowish
white. This variety will not bloom until it is old.

C. Maynatdi. Deep orange red flowers.

C. Triangularis. Cream color ; immense flower.

All varieties will do well as window plants. The first
is the best for general culture.

We now come to the latter family, Epiphyllum, all
natives of tropical America. This branch of the Cactus
family is distinguished by flat shoots, and leaves without
spines. The soil and treatment is identical with that of the
Cereus. The best varieties are, —

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 149

E. Akei-manni. Fine scarlet flower.
E. Jenkinsonii. Fine scarlet flower.
E. Speciosum. Rosy pink flower.
E. Alatum. White flower.

E. Truncatum, and its varieties, with scarlet, rosy, red, violet, and
white flowers.

All these latter varieties are drooping, and to show to
advantage, should be grafted on some of their tall-growing
Cereus relations. C. speciosissimus makes the best stock.

HYDRANGEA.

This is only a summer plant, but -an old favorite. One
requisite for its successful culture is shade ; if grown in the
sun, the leaves become browned and the plant does poorly.
With us, it is not hardy out doors, so it must be grown in a
tub, and wintered in the cellar. The flowers are produced
on the shoots of the previous year. It requires to be well
grown to flower profusely, and the flowers from young plants
are larger than those on plants three or four years old.

While growing, the plants should have a good supply of
water.

Soil, one part loam, one part manure, one part peat.
The color of the flowers is pink, but if iron filings be mixed
with the earth they will become blue.
13*

150 PLANTS FOE WINDOW GARDENING.

Besides the well known pink variety (H. hortensis'), there
are many others ; of these, H. japonica, with blue and
white flowers, is desirable.

AGAPANTHUS,

Or African Lily. A showy plant for summer blooming,
and too well known to need description. Soil, two parts
lop.:*!, one part manure, one part leaf mould. Well grown
it is a noble plant, but will bear much ill-usage. Treated
as recommended for the calla lily, and planted in a tub, it
forms a fine plant.

Winter in a dry, light cellar, and water occasionally.
Water freely while growing.

There is a white variety, and one with variegated foliage ;
both desirable ; a native of the Cape of Good Hope.

OLEANDER.

A very showy, but much neglected plant ; too well known
to need description. To bloom them in perfection, they
need a stove, and yet do well in the parlor and out of doors.

Their season for blooming is July, yet that may be
changed, and bloom produced at any season. They flower
freely when scarcely a foot high, but will grow to the height

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 151

ci ten or fifteen feet, forming splendid trees covered with
rose-colored, white, or variegated flowers.

Give them plenty of pot room in soil, two parts loam, two
parts peat, one part well-rotted manure. Being subject to
white scale, frequent washings are desirable.

They may be wintered in a light cellar, and then should
be but little watered ; during the growing and blooming
seasons, water should be abundantly supplied.

The principal varieties are double rose (Nereum oleander
splendens}) striata pleno, with double striped flowers, pur-
purea, dark red, and as many as fifty named varieties,
all good.

PITTOSPORUM.

This is an old-fashioned plant, a favorite for its fragrant
flowers rather than for any beauty of foliage or blossom ;
the former is dull green, the latter dirty white.

The common variety (P. Tolira) is a native of New
South Wales, and in England is a hardy wall plant; with us
it is a parlor plant, blooming from February to May. Soil,
three parts loam, with one each of leaf mould, sand, and
manure.

Water freely while in bloom and growth. During the

152 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

summer, set the plant in a sheltered situation out of
doors.

The leaves need frequent washings, to keep them free
from dust.

This plant will thrive with very little sun.

JASMINE.

A family of favorite climbing shrubs, and very pretty for
window culture, alike desirable for their neat foliage and
fragrant flowers. The flowers are white or yellow, and pro-
duced from February to June, or later.

The soil should be equal parts of loam and peat, with a
slight admixture of sand. The only insect attacking them
is scale, which a little care in washing will soon remove.
With common room culture, they grow to a large size and
make superb plants.

Water should be rather freely given. They should be
trained on neat trellises, and the branches allowed to droop.
The most desirable varieties are, —

J. Azoricum. White flowers in summer.
J. Odoratissimum. Yellow flowers in spring.
J. Multiflorum. White flowers in spring.
J. Nudiflorum. Yellow flowers in spring.

PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 153

CALCEOLARIA.

The best way to grow this pretty plant is by raising seed-
lings. Sow seeds in August, in light, rich loam ; trans-
plant the young plants to separate pots ; pinch out the cen-
tre of the plant, and continue to do so until the plant is of
the required blooming size. As the roots of the plant touch
the pot, re-pot into a size larger. When the flower stems
push up, tie them neatly to sticks. Be careful in watering
not to give too much, or your plants will damp off. Give
all the sun and air possible, and keep the plants as close to
the glass as you can.

The proper soil is three parts light, rich loam, one of fine
peat, one of sand.

The shrubby varieties are seldom grown as window
plants, but are reserved for the flower garden. Under the
treatment given above, they grow and bloom well.

MAHERNIA.

This is a lovely flower and a general favorite, always
blooming, and always attractive with its fragrant yellow
bells.

Its tendency is to grow straggling, therefore it is best to

154 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

select a plant with a straight stem. Tie up the main stem
as it grows, and by continued pinching restrain the too
luxuriant growth

M. odorata is the variety chiefly grown. M. Hector and
Diana are pretty orange and pink varieties.

Soil, four parts loam, one of sand, one of manure. Keep
the plants moist, but not wet, and give as much sun as pos-
sible. In bloom from February to May.

CHINESE PRIMROSE.

Both the single and double varieties of this plant are
pretty for window gardening. Sow the seed in July, in a
fine soil, as directed for calceolarias, and treat the plant the
same, except the pinching. By January, nice little bloom-
ing plants will be formed ; give them sun and air and do
not allow them to over-bloom, as they are apt to do.

After bloom is over, set them out of doors (about June),
and on no account allow them to bloom during the summer.
Grow them well until autumn, then re-pot in blooming
pots, and by Christmas they will begin to show flower, and
keep up a succession until spring.

Soil, one part turfy loam, one part well decomposed cow
dung, one part peat, and one part sand.

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 155

Be sure the pots are well drained, and never keep the
plants very wet. The colors are red, rosy, lilac, white,
striped, and mottled, with fringed and plain edges.

SOLANUM.

The only plant of this useful family, suitable for room
decoration on account of its flowers, is the Solanum jas-
minoides, a pretty climber, with dark green foliage, and
white potato-like flowers, in large clusters.

It is useful to climb around a window or to cover a trellis.
It is a rampant grower, subject to no disease or insect
attacks, and with sun and air, if potted in a soil of rich
loam, will take care of itself, and bloom all winter.

SOLANUM PSEUDOCAPSICUM.

This plant is the common Jerusalem Cherry. It was
introduced from Maderia about the year 1596. For a
showy plant, in the parlor or green-house, it has no equal,
being studded with bright, red berries, about the size of a
cherry, during the whole winter. A plant now before us,
only two years old, is two feet high, three feet through, and
bending down beneath the weight of fruit. The flowers
are produce^ in June, and are inconspicuous. Sow the

156 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

seeds in a pot in April ; as soon as the weather becomes
warm, transplant to a rich, sunny border ; the plants will
grow rapidly, and probably be in fruit the next winter ; pot
the plants before the frost, and winter in room.

There is a more dwarf-growing species (S. capiastricuni),
with orange berries, which is also very ornamental.

A strong loam is the proper soil for all plants of this
family.

THE LAURESTINUS.

This plant, hardy in England, is with us a winter-
blooming parlor ornament. It is a free-growing, free-
blooming evergreen, and will bear much hard usage. If
cared for, however, it will repay the attention. The flowers
are small, white, and in large, flattened panicles, expanding
from February to May.

The proper soil is a mixture of four parts loam, with one
each of sand, leaf mould, and manure. The pots should be
large, and the plants be freely watered. Dust collecting on
the foliage injures the beauty and health of this plant,
therefore frequent washings are desirable. There are many
varieties, some of which, as the snow-ball (Viburnum op-
ulus\ are hardy shrubs.

PLANTS FOE WINDOW GARDENING. 157

HOYA, OR WAX PLANT.

A showy genus of stove climbers, of which one, Hoya
carnosa, succeeds well with parlor culture. It is a climbing
shrub, the leaves dark green and fleshy ; the flowers are of
a peculiar waxy appearance, produced in umbels, whitish,
with rose-colored centre, in which hangs a drop of limpid
honey.

Give the plant a large pot, and a compost of peat and
loam in equal parts, securing good drainage. Give as much
sunlight and heat as possible. The old bloom stalks
should not be removed, as they put out flowers year after
year. Much water is not needed, especially when the plant
is not growing. This beautiful plant is a native of tropical
Asia, and is one of the few stove plants that will adapt
themselves to parlor culture.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These plants are favorites for autumn blooming, and
quite a treatise might be written on their cultivation, since
they have become florists' flowers. A few hints must, how-
ever, suffice.

The best way to obtain a fine specimen is, to set out in
14

158 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING.

the garden in the early spring a small plant ; give it con'
stant attention during the summer, and pinch out the shoots
so as to make lateral branches. About the first of Septem-
ber let it set for bloom, and on the approach of frost, pot it
and remove.it to the parlor. It will bloom for two months
or more. Then dry it off for the winter in the cellar, and
by the spring it will furnish you with plenty of young
plants. Water should be liberally supplied. The small-
flowered, Pompon, varieties are very desirable ; the larger
flowers are best seen in the garden.

The proper soil is loam and well-rotted manure, with a
little silver sand. Waterings of liquid manure are very
beneficial as the plants are showing bloom. • The following
will be found to be fine kinds : —

Pompone.

Andromeda. Cream color. Riguiqui. Violet plum.

Nellie. Creamy pink. Lady Mayoress. White.

Miranda. Bright rose, Salamon. Rosy carmine.

Christiana. Canary yellow. Canary Bird. Yellow.

Mrs. Dix. Blush. Miss Talford. White.

Large-Flowered Varieties.

Alarm. Crimson. Prince Albert. Crimson red.

Little Harry. Golden amber. King of Yellows. Yellow.

Cassy. Orange and buff. Vesta. White.

Hermine. Silver white, Annie Salter. Canary yellow.

Pearl. Pearly white. Qzieen of England. Blush.

PLANTS FOB WINDOW GARDENING. 159

BEGONIA.

The only two species of this ornamental stove plant that
do well in the parlor, are B. incarnata, and fuchsioides.
The former is an evergreen shrub, with thick, fleshy stems,
and large, drooping clusters of pink flowers in winter. It
shows to great advantage if well cared for, and is one of the
best window plants. The latter is often called " coral
drop," and resembling the former somewhat in habit, pro-
duces at all seasons, but chiefly in summer, its pretty,
drooping, coral flowers.

Both species require the warmest possible situation, and
plenty of light and sun. They are impatient of much
water, but the plants should never be allowed to droop.
Good drainage is indispensable. The whole family thrive
in a compost of one half loam, one half leaf mould, with a
slight portion of sand.

^rrri— -— is~ r

CHAPTER VII.

CAPE BULBS.

THE TXTA: Soil. — Potting. — Drying1 off. — Seedling's. — Species. — Vari-
eties. THE OXALIS: Culture. — Soil. — Species. THE BABIANA: De-
scription. — Culture. — Red Spider. — Species. THE H.EMAXTHUSS

(160)

CAPE BULBS.

161

Description. — Culture. — Species. THE AMARYLLIS : Description. —
Soil. — Species. THE LACHENALIA : Soil. — Potting. — Foliage. — Spe-
cies. THE SPARAXIS : Description. — Culture. — Species. — "Watering.
THE ANOMATHECA : Description. — Planting. — Resting. — Seedlings. —
Species. THE TRITONIA : Culture. — Species. THE HOMERIA : Soil.
— Culture. — Flowering. — Species. THE NERINE : Culture. — Soil. —
Species.

HERE is no finer class of window
plants-than the subjects of the pres-
ent chapter. They combine, in a re-
markable degree, the two requisites
of easy cultivation and floral beauty.

Yet strange it is, that we seldom see them,

•

except in the green-house or conservatory, in
this country, while in England they are pop-
ular plants for home adornment, and grown both
in the window and garden.
Now, the inclemency of our climate debars us from
blooming these floral gems in the garden ; but, as a com-
pensation, our winter suns bring them to perfection at a
season when the earth is locked with frost, and out-door
gardening is entirely prevented.

They are mostly natives of Southern Africa, in the
region of the Cape of Good Hope ; whence their horticul-
tural name, Cape Bulbs. From the nature of the climate

162 CAPE BULBS.

of that region, it is obvious that the bulbs must have a
season of rest. The year is there divided into two por-
tions, the dry and rainy seasons ; during the one, the earth
is saturated with moisture ; during the other, parched with
drought.

The general rule of culture is evident. When the plants
start into growth, give plenty of water and sun ; keep them
vigorously growing until after the flowers have faded ; then
dry them off gradually, by watering less and less, till the
foliage withers ; then place them in a dry, airy place, with-
out removing them from the pots, until the season of
•
growth. The soil should be sandy loam, for almost all the

species. Never allow water to stand round the roots.

The time for potting is from October to December ; they
will flower from February to April ; let them dry off from
March to June, and rest till October. These are but gen-
eral rules ; special cultural directions will be given when
we treat of each species. We have only described a few of
those best adapted for the house. There are more than a
hundred species, and countless varieties. To those who
would see their beauty, and are unable to grow them, we
would recommend Mrs. London's book on Bulbous Plants,
where most of them are described, and colored illustrations
of many of the finest given,

CAPE BULBS. 163

THE IXIA.

These are all bulbs of easy growth, and remarkable for
the brilliancy of their flowers. About the latter part of
November, or earlier if the bulbs begin to grow, they should
be shaken from the soil in the pots, and planted anew, in a
compost made of one part sandy loam and one part peaty
earth, with a little well-decomposed dung, in new, clean
pots ; fill the pots about an inch deep with small crocks to
secure good drainage, as the plants never thrive if the earth
around the roots become sodden. Place the pots in a cool
place till the plants begin to grow, when they should be
placed in a strong light on a shelf close to the window. As
a general rule, all bulbs should be grown as close to the
glass as possible, as thus the leaves are shorter and of a
better color, and the plants never become drawn, weak, and
sickly. Do not attempt to force these plants ; they do not
bear it well, and are deficient in size and number of flowers.
The temperature sufficient to grow them is about forty
degrees at night, to sixty by day.

Five or six bulbs in a ten-inch pot, are quite sufficient,
but never mix the varieties ; the bulbs in a dry state are
very similar, therefore each pot should be labelled distinctly,

164

CAPE BULBS.

if confusion in potting would be avoided. These plants, in
England, are often grown in frames, or in the open border.
In our climate, the green-house is their proper place, as
they are killed by the least frost. By the latter part of
January the flower stalks will begin to appear ; as they are
very slender, they should be secured to neat stakes. Soon
after blooming, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the

plants indicate a desire to rest. Unless it is desirable to

•

ripen seed, the plants should be allowed to dry off grad-
ually, and the pots then placed on a dry place, secure from
mice, until the next autumn. Seedlings may be easily
raised. Sow the seeds thinly, about the first of October, in
the same soil used for the bulbs ; allow the seedlings to
remain in the pan one year ; then transplant and treat as
old bulbs ; they will bloom the third year, if well cared for.
The most usual mode of propagation is by offsets, which
are freely produced ; the old bulb dies each year, giving
birth to new bulbs and a host of offsets ; separate these
before potting, and they will soon make flowering plants.
Most of the varieties do well in the parlor window, and we
can recommend them as both pretty and showy, though we
believe none are fragrant. We have only space to describe
a few out of some thirty varieties.

CAPE BULBS. 165

Ixia Viridiflora. A most lovely species ; leaves very slender ; flower
epike very long, producing from ten to thirty flowers. Words cannot
describe the beauty of the flower ; the petals are of a peculiar vivid
green ; the base of each black ; stamens large and yellow ; the contrast
is most marked ; a very free bloomer, of the easiest culture. Intro-
duced from the Cape about the year 1780.

Ixia Crocata, or. more properly, Tritonia Crocata. Flowers orange
yellow, in great profusion. A fine variety for window culture.

Ixia Conchiflora. A strikingly beautiful variety, with long, buff-
colored flowers.

Ixia Conica. Flowers orange ; very pretty.

Ixia Crateroides. Flowers dark yellow. ^

Ixia Alba Oculata. Color white, shading to yellow, with a dark choc-
olate eye ; exterior of petals pink, yellow and white. A very fine
variety.

Ixia Crispa. Flowers blue.

Ixia Erecta. Flowers white or flesh color.

Ixia Squalida. Flowers rosy lilac.

Ixia Kermisiana. Flowers vermilion.

Ixia Leucantha. Flowers white.

Ixia Capitata. Flowers white and black.

The following are varieties : —

/. Theseus. Rosy pink, shading to a deep purple or lake eye.

/. Aulica. Exterior of petals purple ; interior almost white, shading
to purple at the tips ; eye dark purple.

7. Plutus. Exterior of petals orange, with red strip down centre of
the outer ; inner petals, and interior of all, bright orange ; eye almost
black.

/. Pallas. Only differing from last described in being straw, or
cream color, instead of orange.

166 ' CAPE BULBS.

These varieties resemble in growth. Ixia viridiflora^ are
tall growers, with narrow leaves. They are very fine, and
well worthy of general cultivation. There are also many
newer varieties advertised in English catalogues.

An outlay of a few dollars will procure all these, and
many other fine varieties, from England. The best way to
procure a good stock is to import a collection. There are
many new seedlings which are very beautiful. This plant
will well repay the little trouble required to grow it in
perfection.

THE OXALIS.

A very beautiful winter and spring flowering bulb. The
varieties are very numerous, and are all indigenous to the
Cape of Good Hope and America.

The details of culture for the New Holland species are
identical with those given for the ixia ; we need not, there-
fore, repeat them ; any varieties requiring peculiar treat-
ment we will notice as we proceed. The soil should be
sandy peat and leaf mould, and the pots should always be
well drained. These plants are not universally bulbous,
some having fleshy, tuberous roots, and it *is evident the
same treatment will not do for all. Some varieties produce
their bulbs in a curious manner ; the original bulb sends

CAPE BULBS. 167

down a long, radicle fibre, which in time forms the new
bulb, and the old bulb dies.

We have space but to note a few varieties.

Oxalis Hirta, O. Flabelifolia, O. Elongata, and O. Amcena require to
be potted in August or September.

Oxalis Boweana. One of the best, producing large clusters of bright,
rosy red flowers during the whole fall. Should be potted in September.
Native of the Cape of Good Hope.

Oxalis Floribunda. A variety with short, fleshy stems, just serving to
elevate the dense tuft of leaves and blossoms above the soil. Should be
allowed to dry off during the winter, and bedded out in summer, when
it will bloom profusely for about four months. A native of Chili.
Flowers rosy pink.

Oxalis Carnosa will do well with the same treatment.

Oxalis Caprina. Two varieties, the single and double ; the former is
preferable, and the freer bloomer. Flowers, yellow and fragrant, pro-
duced most luxuriantly all winter. Pot in October. This variety does
finely under window culture.

Oxalis Dcppii. A summer-blooming variety, with fine, lilac rose
flowers. Does well bedded out. A native of Mexico. The fleshy tap-
roots of this variety are sometimes used as an esculent.

Oxalis Versicolor. A lovely variety ; flowers white, with yellow eye,
rosy pink, or crimson outside ; whether the flowers are expanded (which
they only are in sunny weather) or in the bud, they are equally orna-
mental. Plant, in October, six to eight large bulbs (the largest do not
exceed a pea in size) in a- five-inch pot; suspend the pot; the plants
droop over the side, and are a mass of bloom from January to April.
Native of the Cape.

Oxalis Luxula^ and O. Luxula Alba, are pretty varieties, to be potted
in September, and blooming freely during the winter. Flowers pink
and white respectively.

168 CAPE BULBS.

Oxalis Alba, Multiflora, Cuprea, Elegans, Palmata, Hirtetta, Lasian-
dra, and Speciosa, are all pretty varieties, worthy of cultivation.

THE BABIANA.

This is a very handsome genus of .Cape bulbs, with hairy
plaited leaves, and brilliant flowers.

They are natives of arid plains, and during their growing
season will bear much wet, and when dry will not be
injured by great heat. In their native haunts the ground
often becomes powdery, and the bulbs lie exposed to the
fierce rays of the sun.

The general treatment prescribed for ixias will suit them
well. The soil should be kept open by sufficient sand, yet
should be rich, say two parts sandy loam, and one part
black leaf mould.

These plants are very subject to attacks of the red spider,
for which constant syringing is the remedy. It is to be
remembered that in this " an ounce of prevention is worth
a pound of cure/' for when the red spider once makes a
home in the hairy leaves it is very difficult to dislodge him.
Seedlings are easily raised, and flower the third year. The
following, from some twenty species, are the best : —

Babiana Rubro Cyanea. A very handsome plant. Flower very bril-
liant; colors dark blue and dazzling crimson; leaves broad, covered

CAPE BULBS. 169

with hairy down ; flowers of long duration, if not exposed to too strong
a light. A pot of this bulb, in full bloom, is one of the most splendid
ornaments of the parlor. This beautiful bulb may be procured in this
country, but not in any quantity. It is often imported under the name
of Anomathcca Azurea.

B. Villosa. A fine species, with dazzling crimson flowers, produced
in great profusion. In spite of its name (Villosa), the species is less
hairy than others.

B. Stricta> Produces lilac and white flowers very plentifully, and con-
tinues in bloom a long time. The colors are very bright and distinct.

B. Angustifolil is a pretty dwarf species, with brilliant bluish-pink
flowers, which are slightly fragrant.

B. Sulphured. A fine species, with cream-colored flowers.

B. Plicata, with violet blue flowers.

B. Disticha produces white and purple flowers, of an exquisite hy-
acinthine fragrance.

B. Sambucina has rich, purple, fragrant flowers.

THE H^EMANTHUS.

This bulb, commonly called Blood Flower, is not uncom-
mon, but is grown more for its oddity than its beauty.

The bulb is very large, often a foot in circumference.
About the first of September, it pushes forth a flower stem
an inch thick, crowned by a large bud, which, opening, dis-
closes a multitude of crowded flowers, of no beauty. These
soon fade, and the bulb then produces two immense leaves,
which often grow eighteen inches long and six^ inches wide,
hanging down, one on each side of the pot. These wither ;
15

170 CAPE BULBS.

the bulb goes to rest, to repeat the process the next year.
When the flower bud begins to push, or just before, say
about the last of August, the bulb should be re-potted in
two parts rich leaf mould, one part sand ; give plenty of
sun and water as long as the leaf continues to grow, then
dry off gradually. There are few persons, having friends at
the Cape, who have not received bulbs of this plant, and it
is quite common. There are many species ; the most
chowy are H. insignis, with red flowers, and a variety with
yellow flowers.

THE AMARYLLIS.

This is an immense family of fine flowering bulbs, in
regard to which great botanical confusion exists, and from
which several families have been separated. They are all
strong growing plants, requiring liberal treatment to insure
good bloom. The flowers are of many colors, produced in
great profusion, and will well repay the care required. The
soil should be richest leaf mould and loam, with a little fine
sand. Good drainage is important. The pots should be
large, as the roots are very strong and require much room.
The species differ so much in their habits no general
cultural rules can be given.

CAPE BULBS. 171

As window plants, they do admirably, one species, A.
( Vallota) purpurea, being found in every cottage window.

A. belladonna is the always admired belladonna lily.
Two things are necessary for its flowering : a vigorous
growth of the leaves, and entire rest from midsummer until
the flowering season in September. The bulbs are very
large. Plant in August, in good sized pots ; if your bulb
is in good condition, about the middle of September the
flower stem will appear, and will develop from four to ten
large pink and white lily-shaped flowers, on a stem eigh-
teen inches high. As soon as the flower fades, the leaves
will appear in profusion ; give plenty of water, light, and
air, for on the growth of these depends your next year's
bloom. The leaves will continue to grow until the next
spring; then the bulb should be allowed to dry off, and
absolute rest be given until the time for re-potting.

Thus treated, not one bulb in a hundred will fail to
flower regularly.

A. llanda, a fine species with an enormous bulb, and
flower buds four inches long ; the flower stalk is three feet
high. Treatment identical with the above.

A. (Hippeastrum) aulica, a species with a large bulb,
and dark crimson flowers, marked with green and black.

172

CAPE BULBS.

Soil, the same as above. A peculiarity of this species is, it
should never be allowed to dry off.

During its season of rest, which is from August to
December, water should be sparingly given, but never
wholly withheld. The leaves are long, and of a dark, shin-
ing green, rising from the crown of the bulb and drooping
slightly at the end. The flowers are two in number, pro-
duced on a stout stalk, which pushes from the side of the
bulb ; frequently strong bulbs will give two or three spikes.
After blooming, grow the leaves well. This bulb scarcely
ever fails to bloom, and the flowers continue in perfection a
long time.

A. (Hippeastruni) vittata is a magnificent species, with
white flowers striped with bright rose. In the house, it
flowers from April to June. It requires a season of rest
just before flowering, and a soil similar to A. belladonna.

A. (Hippeastruni) psittacina resembles A. aulica, but
has six or more flowers in an umbel. The treatment is the
same as A. vittata.

There are many varieties of these last three, the garden
hybrids already numbering hundreds. All do well as parlor
plants.

A. ( Vallota) purpurea requires much the same treatment

CAPE BULBS. 173

as A. aulica; it should never be allowed to wholly rest.
The soil should be, one part turfy peat, one rich leaf mould,
one fine sand. Its flowering season is in summer, from
July to October. It produces offsets abundantly, which
should be removed and potted separately. A large bulb
will often throw three or four spikes of eight to ten rich
scarlet flowers.

A lovely plant, and very common.

A. (Sprekelia) formosissima. This is the well-known
Jacobean lily, so commonly sold as a summer bulb in the
spring. The bulbs should be potted in equal parts of loam,
well-rotted manure, and sand. The flowers are of peculiar
shape, of richest crimson, produced in June, and followed by
the leaves.

It may be grown as a pot plant, or in the garden (taking
it up in winter), or in water (as a hyacinth), or hung up in
a room, wrapped in wet moss.

By growing the leaves well, the bulbs will bloom for

years.

THE LACHENALIA.

These are pretty little bulbs, requiring a rough, peaty,
and sandy soil. The bulbs are small, but a pot filled with
the foliage and flower makes a pretty show. The plants are
15*

174 CAPE BULBS.

impatient of water, but after starting into growth should
never be allowed to become parched. Pot in October, and
they will bloom from January to February. The foliage is
prettily variegated with black ; the flowers are produced in
upright spikes, and are pendulous, high-colored tubes.

L. pendula is our most common species, with yellow and
red flowers.

L. fragrans. Flowers white and red.

L. quadricolor. Flowers yellow, red, and purple.

There are many species with pink, purple, red, yellow,
and blue flowers, all of easiest culture, and all pretty
window plants.

They should be grown as near to the glass as possible.

THE SPARAXIS.

This is a genus of splendid flowering plants which have
been separated from ixia, to which they are nearly allied,
and ~which in growth, foliage, and flower they much
resemble.

Their treatment is in every way identical with that pre-
scribed for the ixia.

The flowers are usually more brilliant and variegated in
color than those of the ixia.

CAPE BULBS. 175

Spar axis tricolor produces flowers of extraordinary
beauty ; they are yellow, bordered with rich, velvety purple,
and this again bordered with brilliant orange.

It does not bloom until well into the spring. Water
should be moderately given during growth, and plentifully
during the flowering season. Its period of rest is from
June to October.

8. versicolor, a species much resembling the last, the
ground color being crimson instead of orange. The same
treatment is required.

8. blanda has pink and white flowers with a yellow
centre.

S. grandiftora has dark, reddish purple flowers.

S. pendula is quite distinct from the above. It requires
more water, being a native of wet places. The flowers are
drooping, and purple. It is a tall-growing, very handsome
species.

All the sparaxis require rather more sand than the ixias,
and will not bear over- water ing.

THE ANOMATHECA.

This is a beautiful little bulb, of only two species, one
with pink, the other with scarlet flowers. The bulbs are

176 CAPE BULBS.

small, and should be planted thickly in the pot. Soil, rich
loam and leaf mould, in equal parts. Plant the bulbs in
January ; the leaves will soon make their appearance, fol-
lowed by the flowers in May ; the plants will continue in
bloom the whole summer, and be gems of beauty. Let
them rest from September to January. Seed is plentifully
produced, germinates freely, and seedlings will bloom the
second year.

There is no flower that will make so much show in a
small space as A. cruenta. Water moderately ; drain the
pots well. The only species are, —

A. juncea, with reedy leaves and pink flowers.

A. cruenta, with scarlet flowers and large leaves.

THE TRITONIA. '

The plants composing this genus are closely allied to ixiq
and sparaxis. In form, they vary greatly one from tho
other, some being funnel-shaped, others salver-shaped, like
ixia, others bell-shaped.

The culture prescribed for the ixia will do for them, and
all are well adapted for pot culture in the green-house, yet
few would succeed in the window.

T. (Ixia) squalida has fine, rosy flowers ; T. rosea has

CAPE BULBS. 177

delicate pink flowers ; T. miniata fine orange-colored
flowers ; T. (Ixia) crocata, a very showy orange-flowered
species, very easily grown, and quite common.

All the above much resemble the ixia in forrn of the
flowers, and dp well as window plants.

THE HOMERIA.

A race of fine flowering bulbs, of easy growth. The
flowers are showy, produced in profusion for a long time.

The proper soil is equal parts of loam, leaf mould, and
sand.

The bulbs should be treated like ixias as to potting,
watering, and rest. They flower from April to June. The
principal species are, —

Homeria lineata, leaves very long and stiff, marked with
white and green lines ; bulb small ; flower stem about one
and a half feet long, producing from spathes single flowers
of a copper color, in shape very like those of Tritonia cro-
cata ; single blooms transient, but many are produced in
succession, and the plants are thus in flower for a long time.
Blooms in the house about the middle of April. A showy
plant. The flower has a disagreeable smell ; perfects
seeds in abundance. A number of bulbs should be planted

178 CAPE BULBS.

in a pot to produce a fine effect ; and as the roots grow,
the plants should be re-potted (taking care not to break
the ball of earth, and to disturb the roots as little as pos-
sible), for the growth of the roots is so strong as often to
break the pot if it is not large enough for their develop-
ment.

H. spicata, a beautiful plant, producing an abundance of
yellow and red flowers.

H. collina^ having orange scarlet flowers.

THE NERINE.

The treatment of these beautiful bulbs is identically
that required for the Belladonna Lily. Thus cared for, the
flowers will be plentifully produced, and by their brilliancy
and beauty repay for the care afforded.

The soil should be rich loam, peat, and sand, in equal
proportions, and water should be plentifully supplied during
flowering and growth.

N. curvifolia is a fine species, with glittering, scarlet
flowers.

N. coruscans has large umbels of shining, salmon-colored
flowers, and is our most common species.

N. sarnensis is the far-famed Guernsey Lily.

CAPE BULBS.

179

The two former make fine plants for the parlor, produ-
cing their umbels of showy flowers in September or October,
before the leaves. The flower of both species have a pecu-
liar lustre, and glitter like jewels in the sun.

All these bulbs may be procured of any large dealer at a
trifling cost. They are admirably fitted for growing close
to the glass, and do well in long boxes set into the window.

They are hardy, and will bear ill-treatment ; the primal
rule is, grow the leaves well, dry off the plants gradually,
and you will be sure of a profusion of fine bloom.

LOWERS, scattered unrestrained and free.

O'er hill and dale and woodland sod,
That man, where'er he walks, may see,
In every step, the hand of God.

CHAPTER VIII.

DUTCH BULBS.

THE HYACINTH: History. — Season for Planting. — Modes of Growth.—
In Pots. - Offsets. - Water. - Drying off. - Increasing Brilliancy of the
Flowers. — In Sand. — In Moss. — In Frame. — In Glasses.— Choice of
Bulbs. — Varieties. THE TULIP : Species. — Classes. - Seedlings. — Va-
rieties. — Soil. THE CROCUS : Description. — Soil. — Varieties. THE

(180)

DUTCH BULBS.

181

SNOWDROP: Soil. — Species. THE IRIS: Soil. — Watering. — Modes
of Growth. — Species. THE JONQUIL : Culture. — Soil. THE NAR-
CISSUS: Soil. — Modes of Growing. — Species and Varieties.

VARIETY of bulbs receive the
general name of Dutch Bulbs, be-
cause they are extensively grown
in Holland, and are chiefly ex-
ported thence. They are among
the most popular parlor plants,
and are desirable, both from their
beautiful and fragrant flowers and
their easy culture. They are all
winter bloomers, with proper management producing a
succession of bloom from January to April.

They will succeed with but little care, the requisites for
success being procurable by all ; requiring but little space,
they can be grown in the smallest window, while their
cheapness places them within the reach of all. Are any,
then, excusable for not growing flowers? Is not the re-
ward more than a compensation for the trouble ? And who
is so unmindful of the beauty of flowers as not to wish to
have them around him ?

The general treatment suitable for these bulbs does not
16

182 DUTCH BULBS.

differ materially from that prescribed for Cape Bulbs, in the
last chapter.

These bulbs being winter bloomers, are at rest in sum-
mer, therefore their period of growth is from October and
December to February and May.

They possess one advantage over the Cape Bulbs, that
of succeeding perfectly in the open border, being hardy
enough to endure our winters ; but their treatment in open
culture will more appropriately fall under a later chapter.

The soil for their growth in the house should be one
part very rich, well-rotted manure, one part rich loam,
one half part sand. They are thirsty plants, and require
to be liberally supplied with water. They are subject to
no insects, except occasionally green fly, which is easily
removed by smoking.

THE HYACINTH.

All the innumerable varieties of this bulb are seedlings
and hybrids from the Oriental Hyacinth (H. Orientalis), a
native of the Levant, and introduced to cultivation about
the year 1590. Ever since that time it has, in some of its
many varieties, been a popular plant ; it is, in fact, one of
the flowers of the olden time, and claims a prominent place
in floral poesy and simile.

DUTCH BULBS. 183

But even the gorgeous varieties of this species are ex-
ceeded in beauty and brilliancy of color by the little blue Ame-
thyst Hyacinth of Europe. The color of this azure gem can-
not be described. It is the most pellucid amethystine blue.
The flower is small and drooping, and exquisitely fragrant.
This little bulb is perfectly hardy, and should be more
common in our gardens. In growing the hyacinth for
winter bloom, a succession may be maintained by planting
a few bulbs every week, from November or earlier, until
Christmas. Those first planted will bloom soon after New
Year's, and a continuous bloom may be had until the
flowers bloom in April in the open air.

There are, also, many modes of growth,

IN POTS.

A deep pot grows the bulbs far better than a shallow
one. These are called bulb pots, and may be procured at
about the cost of common pots. Fill in an inch of pot-
sherds, then a few small pieces of charcoal. Prepare a
compost of rich yellow turfy loam, one part ; well-decom-
posed cow manure, one part ; coarse, clean sand, one half
part. Fill the pots with this, and pot the bulbs, leaving
the crown about half an inch above the surface of the soil ;

184 DUTCH BULBS.

press the earth around the bulb, and settle all by a good
watering. Then set the pots away in a warm, dark place,
keeping the soil moderately damp until the pot is filled
with roots, which may be ascertained by turning out the
plant, as directed in a previous chapter. Then bring the
plant . to the light. The shoot will probably be an inch
high, and pure white, but in a few days it will become
green, and grow with great rapidity ; the flower spike will
soon show, and with plenty of light and heat, a few weeks
will suffice to give a fine display of bloom.

Offsets should be removed as soon as they appear, by
running the thumb nail down the side of the bulb, and
pressing them off; if large enough to flower, or of fine
varieties, they should be set in small pots, where they will
soon make roots, and in time form fine blooming bulbs.

Water very liberally after the bulbs are brought to the
light.

As soon as the flowers fade, and the tips of the leaves
begin to turn yellow, water should be gradually withheld,
and the bulbs thus dried off. When dry, the earth should
be carefully shaken off1, and the dry bulb put away for the
next autumn's planting.

This is, however, seldom done, the bulbs being so cheap

DUTCH BULBS. 185

" it is too much trouble ; " so, after flowering, they are usu-
ally thrown away or rapidly dried, and in the spring set out
in the flower garden, where they produce weak bloom for
years. If small bits of powdered charcoal be mixed with
the earth, it imparts great depth and brilliancy of color
to the flowers, and a dark, rich green to the foliage. Bone
shavings or horn scrapings assist a full development of
foliage and flower. If the plants are watered once a fort-
night with a very weak solution of glue, or a few drops of
hartshorn added to the water, the same effect will be
produced.

IN SAND.

The bulbs may be grown in pure sand. Silver sand is
the best, but common house sand mil do if well washed,
to free it from salt.

Plant and treat as directed above. The bulbs should,
however, be transplanted to earth after blooming, and dried
off gradually. A pretty effect is produced by covering the
sand with moss.

IN Moss.

Plant and treat as directed above, and after blooming
16*

186 DUTCH BULBS.

transplant to earth, if desirable to plant the bulbs another
season. Water very freely.

COLD FRAME.

A good way, if one intends to grow many of these bulbs,
is to have a cold frame and sash. Let it be set on a good
hard gravel bottom, or some well-drained place ; then set
all your pots in the frame, placing over each bulb a small
pot inverted. Fill in all around the pots, and half cover
the small pot with tan or fine coal ashes. Cover up your
frame, and unless the plants, by becoming dry, need a
watering, you have nothing more to do. Suppose this is
done by the first of October, they will be sufficiently for-
ward to bring into the house about the middle of Novem-
ber. But as frost will not hurt them while covered up in
the bed, bring in a few as wanted, and thus maintain a
succession of bloom. This treatment does admirably for
all Dutch bulbs. The frame is small, and could be put in
any back yard. It need not be light, nor is a glass sash
essential ; a board cover will do. The object of the small
pot is to keep the ashes, ana tan, away from the bulb.

DUTCH BULBS. 187

IN WATER.

When hyacinths are to be grown in water, choose the
darkest-colored glasses. It is a good plan to keep the
bulbs for a few weeks in damp moss, to encourage the
growth of roots. Place them in the glasses about the last
of November, or later ; the water should just touch the
base of the bulb. Keep them in a warm, dark place until
the glass is half full of roots. Rain water should be used,
and changed once a fortnight ; any loss by evaporation
should be supplied. Care must be taken not to use the
water too cold ; that filled in, both in changing and re-
filling, should be the same temperature as that in which
the bulb is growing.

A few drops of hartshorn, supplied when the water is
changed, help the growth. After blooming, the bulbs
should at once be re-potted in earth, if the bulb is valua-
ble. If by any neglect the roots become coated with green
slime, they may be carefully washed in lukewarm water.

CHOICE OF BULBS.

The bulb should be hard and solid, and its base sound.
Size is no criterion, some of the finest kinds being always

188 DUTCH BULBS.

large, and others always small. Nor can any rule be given
as to shape, some being quite conical at all times, and
others spherical or flat. Avoid those bulbs which have the
appearance of throwing out many offsets, as they will be
sure to weaken the parents. As a general rule, choose
medium-sized, firm, hard, heavy bulbs. If you wish fine
flower, never buy auction bulbs ; they are but the refuse
of Holland florists, shipped here to sell at best prices.
Good bulbs, of fine named kinds, can be procured of seeds-
men for three dollars a dozen. Auction bulbs will do for
general effect out of doors, but they never give fine flowers.
Hyacinths may be prettily grown in large pots, boxes, or
pans. A small hollow table, made to receive a large pan
of hyacinths, is a pretty ornament of a parlor.

VARIETIES.

Single varieties usually bloom better than double in the
window, and are, therefore, to be preferred. We give a
list of both.

Double Red.

Acteur, Josephine,

Grootverst, Panorama,

Bouquet Tendre, Rex Rubrorum,

Hecla, Sans Souci.

DUTCH BULBS.

189

A la Mode,
Miss Kitty,
Anna Maria,
Gloria Florum,

Double White.

Triomphe Blandina,
Sultan Achmet,
Grand Monarque de France,
Violette Superbe.

Buonaparte,

Argus,

La Majestueuse,

Grand Vedette,

Double Slue.

Orondatus,
Envoye,

Lauren s Koster,
Lord Wellington.

Double Yellow.

Bouquet d'Orange,
Gloria Florum,
Heroine,
Ophir,

Louis d'Or,

Due de Berry d'Or.

Croesus,

Goethe,

Amieus,

Baron Van Tuyll,

Argus,

Emilius,

Single Slue.

L'Amie du Coeur,
Robert Peel,
Orondatus,
Prince Albert.

Amy,

Mars,

Charles Dickens,

Porcelain Sceptre,

Single Red.

Grand Vedette,
Mrs. Beecher Stowe,
Cosmos,
Homevus.

190

DUTCH BULBS.

Single White.

Blandine, Mont Blanc,

Victoria Regina, Paix de 1'Europe,

Voltaire, Anna Paulowna,

Elfrida, General Cavaignac.

Single Yellow.

Alida Jacoba, Heroine,

Fleur d'Or, Aurora,

Lion d'Or, Victor Hugo,

-Soleil d'Or, Prince of Orange.

THE TULIP.

Probably no flower has been so much the object of com-
mercial speculation as the Tulip. There was a time when
a single root, of a fine variety, was held at a far higher price
than its weight in gold. To such an extent did the mania
increase, that houses, farms, and all species of property were
bargained for a bed of tulips ; and all kinds of absurdities
were committed, which are well detailed in the story of the
" Tulip Mania," in the History of Popular Delusions.

The many varieties of garden tulips are all derived from
Tulipa Gesneriana (except the Early Due Van Thol, the
Double Inodorous, varieties of the T. oculus solis, and the
Parrot Tulips, which are produced by a cross between T.

DUTCH BULBS. 191

cornuta and sylvestris). It (T. Gesneriana) was brought to
Europe from Persia, more than three hundred years ago,
and was cultivated at Constantinople. Thence it was
disseminated through Europe, under the name of Turkey
Tulip, and was first botanically described by Gesner, a Swiss
botanist, in honor of whom it was named by Linnseus.

The commercial speculation in tulips reached its height
about the beginning of the eighteenth century, as we learn
from Loudon ; since then it has declined ; but still large
prices are often paid for new or fine varieties.

Tulips are chiefly raised for the market in Holland,
though in England much attention is paid to them as florists'
flowers.

Tulips are divided into three classes : Bizards, or Bizarres,
having a yellow ground, broken with purple or red ; Rose,
which have a white ground, broken with cherry color ;
Bybloemens, which are white, broken with purple. These
classes are subdivided into flamed and feathered, the former
being those which are somewhat striped, the latter those
which are only broadly marked on 'the edge.

We abridge from Loudon, some facts of interest concern-
ing this flower : —

" The mode of raising tulips from seed, practised in

192 DUTCH BULBS.

England, was till lately a very strange one, and quite
unworthy of the advanced state of science at the present
day. The seed was saved from the unbroken flowers, or
breeders, as they were termed, and consequently the young
plants were always self-colored. To make them break,
that is, to vary their colors, the strangest methods were
resorted to : sometimes they were planted for one season
in a hot-bed, and the next in the poorest soil that could
be procured; and sometimes they were removed to a
distant county, twenty or thirty miles from where they
were first grown, and then brought back again. But, in
spite of all the care bestowed upon them, they were gen-
erally from seven to ten or twelve years before they showed
any symptoms of variegation, and some never did at all.
A more rational method is now pursued, and the seeds of
the handsomest tulips being saved, showy flowers are
frequently produced the second year, and bulbs of three
years old often produce flowers fit for winning prizes."

The only species of tulip grown in the parlor are T.
oculis solis, with red flowers and a dark eye, and T. suavo-
lens, commonly called Due Van Thol, with scarlet and
yellow blossoms. These are both dwarf early species,
and make a dazzling, though transient show. They may

DUTCH BULBS. 193

be brought into bloom in December, and a succession may
be obtained, as directed for hyacinths. The proper soil is
one part well decomposed horse dung, one part rich loam,
one part sand.

THE CROCUS.

A beautiful race, of about twenty species of hardy bulbs,
some blooming in spring, others in autumn ; natives of the
south of Europe and Eastern Asia ; some species grow wild
in England.

Our garden varieties, with the exception of the large
yellow and the Scotch Crocus, are mostly hybrids.

For blooming in the house the crocus is only valuable
as an early flower, its blooms being fugitive. A few,
however, planted with other bulbs, produce a pretty effect.

The soil should be one part loam, one part sand, and
water should be sparingly given. Otherwise treat as
hyacinths.

Varieties.

Sir Walter Scott. Variegated. Grootverst. White.

David Rizzio. Blue. Othello. Very dark purple.

Scotch. Yellow. Large Yellow.

La Majestueuse. "White and Grand Lilas, Lilac,

violet* Albion. Violet.

Caroline. White. Queen Victoria. White.
17

194 DUTCH BULBS.

THE SNOWDROP.

Well known dwarf, hardy, and pretty bulbs. They
succeed well in the house, but a large number must be
planted in a pot to make a display.

Soil, loam and sand.

There are two varieties, single and double ; the former
is the prettier.

The large Crimean Snowdrop (Galanthus plicatus) is
very pretty, but not common.

THE IRIS.

There are a few species of the bulbous Iris which do
well under pot culture. The varieties of English Iris (/.
xiphioides) are tall growers, and are awkward parlor
plants.

The soil required is a sandy loam ; and, while showing
bud and flower, the plants should be freely supplied with
water. Treat otherwise the same as a hyacinth. The
bulbs may be grown very prettily in glasses, similar to
hyacinths.

The species usually grown are, —

DUTCH BULBS. 195

Iris Xiphium, the Spanish Iris. With showy flowers of purple yel-
low, and {heir shades. Grows about eighteen inches high. Flowers
late in the spring.

Iris Xiphioides, the English Iris. With tall stems, and large, showy
flowers, somewhat resembling the last.

Iris Persica, or Persian Iris. A little gem. Very dwarf. Well
adapted for forcing. Flowers vary from delicate to deep blue. Soil
very sandy. Requires plenty of water. Does well under pot culture,
in loam, sand, or moss, or in water.

THE JONQUIL.

This plant is a species of Narcissus (N. jonquilla) and is
a native of Spain. There ^are two varieties, the single
and double, both valuable for parlor plants. They bear
forcing well, always bloom, and their flowers are delight-
fully fragrant.

They should be treated as hyacinths, only two or three
bulbs may be planted in a pot. The soil should be rich
loam and leaf mould, with a little sand. There is no bulb
of easier growth ; they may be bloomed any month ;
flowers yellow.

There are florists' varieties.

19(3 DUTCH BULBS.

THE NARCISSUS.

This is a large family of hardy bulbs, of easiest cul-
ture.

The principal varieties worthy of house cultivation are
those known as the Roman and Polyanthus Narcissus.

Great quantities of these are annually imported from
Holland. They require, in every respect, the same treat-
ment as the hyacinth, and will do well in any light, rich
soil, or may be bloomed in glasses, in which case the
water must be changed once a week.

The bulbs are large, and strong growers ; they have
grassy or leek-like leaves ; the flower stem comes up in
the centre, and, from a sheath at the top, bursts at one
side the bunch of flowers, which are white or yellow,
with orange, white, or yellow cups. They are very
fragrant, and continue in perfection a long time. The
pots should be large, as the roots are numerous and
strong. Give plenty of water during the growing and
flowering season.

The Roman Narcissus is esteemed for its early flower-
ing ; it is usually in bloom about Christmas. The single
variety is yellowish white ; the double, cream color. The

DUTCH BULBS. 197

paper- white Narcissus (N. papyraceus] produces very pretty
pure white flowers.

The following are varieties of the Polyanthus Nar-
cissus : —

Bazelman Major. White and yellow.
Grand Monarque. "White and citron.
Grand Primo. White and citron.
Grand Prince. White and lemon.
Soleil d'Or. Yellow and orange.

ERE, there, every where.
Offering up eternal prayer

To the skies:

Thus may we a lesson learn, —
Sun or rain some good discern;
Thus to Heaven forever turn'
Prayerful eyes.

CHAPTER IX.
THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE.

History. — Causes of Failure. — Potting. — Manure. — Selection and Prep-
aration of Bulbs. - Treatment of Flower. — Planting for Succession.
— Single and Double Varieties.

(198)

THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE. 199

1 OW can I Uoom my Tube Roses ?
They grow well, they produce
abundance of foliage, healthy
as could be desired, but no
flowers. Yet their culture is
very easy. They will bloom freely with
but little care ; yet you must learn hoiu
to do it ; and this secret was commu-
nicated to us a few years since by an
ardent lover of this beautiful flower,
who proved it by showing us spikes of bloom with from
twenty to thirty flowers. The tube rose is a native of the
East Indies, and was introduced about the year 1630. It
has since been in general cultivation, and is now grown in
all warm climates as an out-door plant ; with us it will not
stand the winter. Our dried roots are annually imported
from Italy, where they ripen their bulbs in the open air.

The great want of success in growing this plant is
caused by too poor a soil, too little water, and too little
heat at the root ; the plant would probably bloom were the
latter need supplied, but we are not content to merely
bloom a plant, but must bloom it well.

A hot-bed is necessary : it may be of the simplest kind,

200 THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE.

the heating material being a few wheelbarrow loads of
dung. How to best make the hot-bed we will describe in
a future chapter.

Now suppose the heat is up in the hot-bed, and we have
selected tubers as soon as opened by the importer, thus
securing the strongest and best-grown roots, known by the
size, and firmness even to the top, and the absence of off-
sets or their marks, being sure that there is no old blossom
stalk, evidence of exhaustion. Time, about the first of
April ; prepare seven-inch pots, with the usual drainage ; we
prefer charcoal to any thing else ; over this place about four
inches of old, dry cow manure, picked up in the pasture,
and preserved for future use (the older the better), broken
fine, but not sifted.

Then fill the pot nearly full of a compost of nearly equal
parts of sand, loam, peat, and last year's hot-bed, with a
slight admixture of charcoal dust ; then prepare the roots
by removing the outer scale or coating, so as to detect
embryo offsets. These carefully remove with a knife, or
the thumb nail, so as to lessen future operations of that
kind. This done, plunge them in the compost, just cov-
ering them from sight, and then fill the pot with spent bark
or tan, and plunge the pot to the rim in the tan, which, by

THE CULTURE OP THE TUBE ROSE. 201

the way, we deem the very best material in which to plunge
pots in the hot-bed, retaining well the heat and moisture,
and, withal, pleasant to work in. Soon, they begin to
strike root, and the foliage to show its tips ; then give
slight waterings, until indications of "spindling" appear;
then increase the water so much as to solve, to some
extent, the broken manure, and thereby allow of consolida-
tion, by firm pressure upon the top surface ; watch closely
for offsets, and, as they appear, split them off by inserting
the thumb between them and the parent, thus keeping the
strength where it is wanted. The best practice is to retain
them in the pots, and keep the pots together in the hot-
bed, unless they become so tall as to interfere with the
sashes. Keeping them in pots is preferable to turning
them out, not only because thus the supply of water can
be controlled, but because they can be moved at pleasure.
When blossoms begin to appear, remove them to an arbor,
or any sheltered place, to secure shade to some extent, and
thus preserve the natural delicacy of the flowers. On the
approach of frosty weather, they can be housed without the
shock they would suffer from " lifting and potting." If
kept neatly tied to rods, they are not unacceptable in the
parlor.

202 THE CULTURE OF THE TUBE ROSE.

By a succession of plantings, a long season of bloom is
secured. By planting on the eighth and twenty-fifth of
April, and the twelfth of May, one may have an uninter-
rupted season of bloom from the twentieth of July to the
tenth of November.

Who shall say the end does not warrant the means ? Is
any one unwilling to devote the amount of labor to the
culture of so delightful an exotic ? Truly there is no
flower which, with little trouble, will yield so large a re-
turn of beauty and fragrance. The bulbs generally sold
in the seed stores are the double-flowered variety. That
with single flowers is far more beautiful and equally fra-
grant ; it is not so tall a grower, and its foliage is more
graceful ; it is, however, far from common.

After the bulbs have flowered, it is the best course to
throw them away, procuring fresh each spring. Our
climate is too uncertain to insure a proper ripening of
the bulb.

Offsets bloom the third year.

The price of the bulbs in the seed stores is a dollar and
a half a dozen ; they may, however, be imported for two
dollars and forty cents per hundred, costing, with charges,
about three cents each.

O comfort man, to whisper hope,

Whene'er his faith is dim,
That he who careth for the flowers
Will much more care for him.

CHAPTER X.

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.
History.— Species. — Culture. — Varieties.

THERE is no bulb which has so rapidi/ grown into favor,
or so much improved by hybridization, as the Gladiolus.
A few years since, it was comparatively rare ; we had a
few varieties, but they were little noticed, and excited little

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204 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.

attention. But the results of the last few years, since it
has received more careful culture, and since the fine new
varieties have been introduced, have been wonderful ; and
at the present time there is probably no one class of
plants which promises better for the future, not only in
Europe but also in this country, than the Gladiolus.

There are three species of gladiolus (G. Byzantinus,
communis, and roseus), which are tolerably hardy, and if
once planted in the open borders will flower well year after
year, requiring little attention. Bulbs of these varieties
should be planted in November, and need no protection.
Perhaps, however, it is better to throw some loose litter
over the bed, as Eoseus is often winter-killed. .Plant the
bulbs in little clumps, four or five together ; they will
flower finely the next spring, and need no further care.
The bulb must, however, be planted deep enough to protect
it from severe frosts, and to prevent its being thrown out
of the ground.

G. Cardinalis was first introduced into this country
about the year 1835 ; it was for a time very rare, but can
now be easily procured. It is a native of the Cape of
Good Hope, and in England receives the same attention
and culture as the rest of the so-called " Cape bulbs ;" but

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 205

we must give a different treatment to grow it in perfection
out of doors. As a pot plant it is of the easiest culture —
light and air are essential ; care must also be taken to keep
off the red spider, which infests all plants of this class.
The soil in which it thrives most is a compost of about
three parts of sandy loam to one of leaf mould ; do not
pulverize the earth, as it is apt to become sodden by water-
ing, and thus prevent a free development of the roots. The
plants intended for the border should be started in pots in
the house, for our season is scarcely long enough for their
full development and the proper ripening of the bulb.
Keep them in a cool place until the end of May, when they
may be turned into a border of prepared soil ; they will
soon show bloom, for in their native climate they are of
rapid growth. As soon as the leaves decay, take up the
bulbs and dry them; moisture or frost are fatal, so care
must be exercised. Keep in the dry state till the bulbs
show signs of activity, when they must be immediately
planted, for attempting to retard their growth in a dry state
greatly injures the bulb.

The color of G. Cardinalis is scarlet and white. It is a
beautiful species, but of very weak growth, and is not pop-
18

206 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.

ular, being entirely cast into the shade by larger, stronger-
growing species.

GLADIOLUS RACEMOSUS. Beautiful rose, marked with
white and carmine. The bulbs are much smaller than
those of the varieties to be described, but some of the
beautiful hybrids are well worthy of cultivation. The
treatment given above for Cardinalis will do well for all the
varieties of Racemosus, though, if strong bulbs are procured,
they will bloom well if planted in the open border about the
last of May. The growth is far stronger than that of Car-
dinalis, and some of the hybrid varieties are very beautiful.
We annex a list of a few of the most desirable, but doubt
whether they can be procured in any quantity in this
country : —

GLADIOLUS RACEMOSUS FORMOSISSIMUS. Magnificent
scarlet.

QUEEN VICTORIA. Red, with white and carmine border.

OSCAR. Brilliant scarlet, spotted with white ; choice.
•LOUD GREY. Vermilion, spotted with violet and white.

LORD PALMERSTON. Vermilion, distinct carmine spots,
violet and white.

LORD JOHN RUSSELL. Clear vermilion, large, bordered
with lake and carmine ; choice.

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 207

WILHELMUS. Vermilion, bright, spotted with white and
violet.

GLADIOLUS PSITTACINUS. Originally called Natalensis,
from Natal, its native country, was but a few years since
one of our most popular and admired species. Its colors
are yellow, red, and green, and it blooms profusely in the
open border with little care ; it will nourish in almost any
soil, and instances have been known of its surviving our
winters. Plant in May, and take up after the leaves have
been killed by the frost. This once generally admired
species is now little esteemed in comparison with G. gan-
davensis and its hybrids, but, nevertheless, is \vell worthy a
place in the garden, as its bulbs increase rapidly, and are
of the simplest culture ; seeds are also produced in profu-
sion, and seedlings flower the third year.

GLADIOLUS FLOKIBUNDUS, or (from the position of its
flowers) OPPOSITIFLORUS. A most beautiful variety ; color,
shaded rose, pink, or white. The flowers are very delicate,
and produced in long, crowded spikes. The growth is
stronger than any of the species we have previously de-
scribed, except Natalensis, and the bulb smaller, and does
not increase so readily. Cultivate as directed for G. Nata-
lensis, though, if a rich soil is given, the flowers are larger

208 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.

and the spikes more numerous. One of the most beautiful
features of our garden this last summer have been two
large beds of this species and G. Gandavensis.

GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS. A very striking species ;
color, superb orange and yellow. This variety was raised
as a seedling by Van Houtte, and derives its name from the
town of Gand (Ghent). It is stated to be a hybrid be-
tween Cardinalis and Psittacinus ; but Rev. Mr. Herbert, of
Spofforth, England, probably the best authority on bulbous
plants, very much doubted the truth of this assertion. For
a long time he experimented, crossing those two varieties,
but was never able to obtain any seedlings. At the present
time it would be useless to revive this question pr attempt
its discussion ; it might, however, be interesting to know
the truth, for certain it is to this species we owe all the
magnificent varieties we shall soon describe, and many
more none the less beautiful.

The culture of Gandavensis is very easy : prepare a well-
manured bed ; plant the bulbs three fourths of a foot apart
each way, and two inches deep ; stake carefully, and the
bloom will be magnificent ; give them the full benefit of
the sun, for, if shaded, they do not succeed. A single bulb
Nvill often give two or three stems of bloom, and a succes-

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 209

sion of flowers will be produced for two months. In winter
keep the bulbs from frost. Seed is freely produced, and
hybridization between this and other varieties easily
effected. The growth of this species and its hybrids is
very vigorous ; the plants require staking, otherwise they
are liable to be broken by the wind.

PROPAGATION or THE GLADIOLUS BY SEED.

The Gladiolus may be propagated by seed ; the sowing
should be in the fall, as soon as the seeds are gathered, or
during the months of January and February, March and
April, in a peaty soil, in a frame covered with glass to ex-
clude the frost, or in pots or pans well drained, and filled
with fresh peat ; the seeds should be scarcely covered.
The pots in which the seeds are sown should be placed
in the green-house or in a frame.

When the plants appear, and the rays of the sun are too
strong, shade them ; place them in large pans, and give
them air, in order to make them strong. When, in the
month of May, the weather is fine and settled, remove the
frames which sheltered the seed in the open borders, or re-
pot, and place the pots of young plants in the open ground,
so that the first year they may make the greatest possible

210 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.

growth. When the leaves begin to grow yellow, take up,
with care, the small bulbs, and preserve them in a dry,
secure place. The next spring plant them again in the
open border, at a distance proportioned to their strength.
The care to be given during the winter is the same as that
which old bulbs require. The third year the greater part
of them will show bloom.

The following is a list of fine varieties of this species,
with colors. Most of them may be obtained for about
three to four dollars per dozen.

Mrs. Haqitin. Light straw color, marked with rosy purple.

Pline. Cherry, marbled with darker shades.

Eugene Damage. Dark, velvety red, with white markings.

Helene. Pink and salmon ; yellowish marking.

Rebecca. White, blotched with pink.

Mon. Vinchon. Rosy cherry.

Aristotle. Rose, marbled with rosy red.

Calendulaceus. Brilliant salmon yellow.

Jeanne d? Arc. Pure white ; rose-tipped petals.

Egerie. Rosy pink, marbled with rosy red.

Ninon d' UEnclos. Rosy pink, shading to white.

Don Juan. Deep red, with faint white lines.

Vesta. Pure white, with purple lines.

Brenchlcyensis. Deep, blazing scarlet.

Daphne. Rose, marked with scarlet.

Pluton. Clear red, shading to pure white.

Isoline. White, shading to pink.

THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE. 211

Madame de Vatry. White or straw color.

Clemence. White, stained with currant.

Archimedes. Rosy red.

Celine. Rosy white, with amaranthine lines.

Ophir. Straw color, mottled with purple.

Janire. Cherry, with white.

Lelia. Pink, with white shadings.

Princess Clothilde. Rose, with cherry markings.

Le Poussin. Bright cherry anff pure white.

La Quintanie. Peach cherry.

Rembrandt. Vivid scarlet.

Raphael. Deep cherry, lighted with white.

Calypso. Pink and flesh-colored.

Imperatrice, or Empress. White, marked with pale pink.

Premice de Mont Rouge. Dark scarlet.

Berenice. Salmon pink.

Penelope. Rosy white.

Fanny Rouget. Carmine and flesh color.

Goliah. Rosy cherry.

Sulphureus. Sulphur yellow.

Napoleon III. Vivid scarlet ; white centre.

Vetteda. Bright pink.

Hebe. Clear rose.

Vukain. Dark, lustrous scarlet.

Count de Morny. Deep cherry crimson, white lines.

Nemesis. Cherry, clouded with white.

Lord Campbell. Splendid yellow.

Surprise. Clear, currant red.

The above list may seem large, but the difficulty is what
to reject ; it might easily be doubled, and yet all be splen-
did varieties.

212 THE GLADIOLUS AND ITS CULTURE.

For a dozen choice varieties choose Surprise, Lord Camp,
bell, Vulcain, Pluton, Celine, Ophir, La Quintanie, Raphael,
Rembrandt, Isoline, Jeanne d'Arc, Princess Clothilde, and
Count de Morny. For the same number of cheaper sorts :
Penelope, Goliah, Aristotle, Empress, Janire, Nemesis,
Hebe, Fanny Rouget, Sulphureus, Archimedes, Vesta,
Don Juan.

The following should be in every collection, however
small : Count " de Morny, La Poussin, Brenchleyensis,
Vesta, Penelope, Hebe, Pluton, Calypso, Vulcain, Madame
de Vatry.

New varieties are yearly produced, and there are many
promising American seedlings.

RESH beauty all around our paths,

If but our watchful eyes
Would trace it, 'mid familiar things,
And through their lowly guise.

CHAPTER XI.

HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS TO BLOOM IN WINTER.

VIOLETS.— POLYANTHUS. — DAISIES. — PAXSIES. — LILY OF THE VALLEY
—-HEPATICA.— FLOWERING SHRUBS.

(213)

214

HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER.

HEAT pleasure may be experienced
in forcing plants to bloom in winter,
though it is one of the most difficult
departments of Horticulture in which
to achieve success. There are many
flowers which resist all attempts,
while others do but poorly, and others again
well repay the care required.

THE VIOLET.

This little spring flower, always a favorite, from its grace
and delicate fragrance, can be bloomed successfully during
the winter months, and this Avith but- little expense.

Let the season be the last of August ; procure a frame
of rough plank, about four feet long by three wide, and
sloping from one foot to eighteen inches in height. On
each side, from top to bottom, nail two narrow strips of
wood, letting them stand about an inch above the top of
the frame. Fit on to the frame, so as to slide between
the strips, a glass sash ; the cost of the whole will be about
three dollars. If our violets have been properly divided in
the spring, and planted out in a rich, loamy, damp spot, we

HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER. 215

have now plenty of plants, each about six inches in
diameter. If we do not have them, they can be obtained
of any florist for about a dollar a dozen.

Prepare a bed the size of your frame, of rich, decom-
posed manure and leaf mould, and plant the violets in
clumps, as many as the bed will hold, about six inches
between each clump. This bed may be below the surface
of the surrounding soil, or on a level. Allow the plants
to grow in the bed thus prepared until about the first of
November, when the nights get frosty ; then put your frame
over the bed ; fill in over the plants with dry leaves, and
put on the sash. The bed should be in a place where no
standing water will settle in winter ; and, in the prepara-
tion, if the soil be naturally wet, it may be better to fill in
a few inches of the bottom with small stones, to secure
drainage. The earth should be banked up around the
frame before the ground freezes, as thus the inside of the
bed will be warmer. Care should be taken that the frame
is tight and well banked, or you may have provided a
winter domicil for field mice, to the destruction of your
violets. About a week before the violets are wanted, open
the frame, remove the leaves, and expose the plants
to full light. The bed should face the south — that

216 HOW TO FORCE FLOWERS IN WINTER.

is, the inclination of the frame should be in that
direction.

Have some straw mats, board shutters, or other warm
covering (the mats are the best), with which to cover the
frame at night, and on cold, stormy days.

This mat should be removed on pleasant days, unless
very cold — for the more light the better flowers — and on
warm, cloudy days. Guard against frost, and on very
cold days the beds should not be uncovered ; it is neces-
sary to preserve the heat as much as possible, as bur ojily
reliance is on that obtained from the sun.

The violets, in planting, should be about four inches
from the glass; if the beds are deeper, your bloom will
not be so early, though the flowers, by being drawn, will
have longer stems.

With good weather, the flowers will begin to open from
three days to a week after being uncovered. Every sunny
day they will come forward wonderfully, and with a few
frames, there need not be a day, from January to May,
when you cannot gather a bunch of violets. The plants
will require but little water, unless the earth becomes dried
by the heat of the sun ; if kept too wet, the plants will mould
and rot. When the spring opens, and the plants have done

HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 217

blooming, take them up, divide them, — every piece with a
root will make a plant, — and set them in a damp, sheltered
spot in the garden, to make plants for the next autumn.
Put away the frame and sash in a dry place, for fu-
ture use.

A good plan is to have the beds laid in masonry; then
they are permanent, and require only to be filled in with
compost and planted.

A wooden frame will, however, with care, last from three
to five years.

The best varieties to plant are, —

The SINGLE ENGLISH. This is very early and fragrant,
and an abundant bloomer.

The DOUBLE ENGLISH. Dark blue.

The DOUBLE ENGLISH WHITE is pretty, but forces
badly, usually having a green centre.

The DOUBLE LIGHT BLUE, called the Neapolitan Violet.

It is not well to mix the varieties in the same bed,
as they come to perfection at different times.

THE POLYANTHUS.

This variety of the Primrose, commonly called Cowslip,
may be bloomed in the same way as violets.
19

218 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER.

The plants thrive best in a heavy, loamy soil. A good
way to grow them is to plant them in pots, and set the
pots in a cold frame, as above described, filling in all
around the pots with fine coal ashes, and covering with
leaves, as above directed. They can then be forced into
bloom in the frame, or the pots, when wanted, be removed
to the green-house or conservatory. They are impatient
of damp, therefore give little water.

The best way to procure a stock, unless one wishes fine-
named florists' varieties, is to sow the seed in spring, in
fine soil, and prick the plants out during the summer ;
then pot about the first of September.

The plants bloom in the frame from March to May.

Fine named varieties may be procured of florists.

THE DAISY.

These pretty little plants may be grown as Polyanthus,
and will give a profusion of flower in spring.

There are many varieties, — red, white, variegated, pink,
with single, double, and quilled flowers, and with green and
variegated leaves. A common garden loam suits them
well; water but little until the plants begin to grow.

HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 219

THE PANSY.

This pretty species of Violet is seldom grown in this
country in perfection. Our climate is too dry, our summer
suns too hot, and the flowers grow small, and we never see
the fine, large flowers which English florists are so proud
of. In spring and autumn we get large pansies, but all
through the summer the .flowers are sure to be small.

Our winters are often very severe on this flower, and it is
no uncommon thing to have the whole bed winter-killed.
They succeed best when covered with snow during the
whole winter.

In a frame, however, these flowers may be rmccerfsfully
cultivated.

The seed should be sown in July or August, and tho
plants pricked out into a bed in a moist sheltered spot in
the flower garden. About the middle of October, when
the plants have become sizable, pot them, one in a pot,
and treat them as directed for polyanthus.

They will bloom from the middle of April all through
the summer.

The soil should be a rich loarrx.

Only water wh'~i? tb ylt*ntc become dry, und then

220 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER.

only in sunny weather, as the plants are liable to damp
off.

The only insect attacking the pansy is the green fly,
which is easily removed by fumigation.

The fine varieties may be propagated by cuttings of the
young shoots, which root freely in sandy loam, under a bell

glass.

THE LILY OF THE VALLEY.

The Convallaria majalis, or Lily of the Valley, is now
an old inhabitant of our gardens, and still very generally
admired, on account of the delicious fragrance of its
beautiful bell-shaped flowers. As a companion to the
crocus, snowdrops, hyacinths, and other early flowering
bulbs, it well merits every attention. To have it in flower
about Christmas, the tubers should be taken up from the
garden about the middle of^November, or at latest the
third week. The tubers should not be less than three
.years old ; if more, all the better. The little tubers of
the Lily of the Valley are of two kinds, those with sharp-
pointed buds, and those with thick, blunt buds. The
former produce leaves only, the latter flowers.

Now, in choosing for forcing, take the bluntest and
fullest buds you can find, for it is important every bud

HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 221

should give a flower. Previous to potting, it will be
necessary to decide how they are afterwards to be disposed
of when in flower ; they may be placed in fancy wire or
wicker baskets, or in ornamental vases.

If it is intended to remove the tubers when in flower,
wrap a little bit of moss round each, and then pack them
away, as closely as possible, in pots, or what is still better,
long boxes, previously filled with any light, porous soil,
the tubers inserted just deep enough in the soil to
slightly cover the crowns. Over all, place a good thick
layer of moss ; it assists in keeping the soil and tubers
moist ; and lastly, pots or boxes, of the same dimensions
as those the tubers are planted in, are inverted and placed
over them, so as to keep all dark, as darkness is essential
to success. The boxes are then removed to a warm place,
where they can be supplied with a little bottom heat (a pit
or the cooler end of the green-house flue will do), which
must be gentle at first, but may be gradually increased as
the plants show symptoms of active growth. Thus, in
three or four weeks, more or less, according to the treat-
ment they have received, they will be abundantly furnished
with their exquisitely scented flowers. They may then
be removed with the greatest facility, on account of the
19*

222 HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER.

moss in which each tuber is enveloped, and transferred to
the vases or baskets. If they are intended to remain in
flower where planted, the moss may be dispensed with,
but otherwise the treatment is the same.

The plants should be kept in the dark until they begin
to show flower, which will be when the spikes are about
six inches long. The boxes or pots may then be removed,
and the plants gradually inured to the sunlight, when the
leaves will become a beautiful green.

Occasional waterings with tepid water are to be given,
as the plants when once fairly started into growth must on
no account be allowed to become dry.

Other plants of the nature of the Lily of 'the Valley,
such as the various species of Convallaria, Dielytra,
Uvularia, Sanguinaria or .Bloodroot, may be forced by
similar treatment.

HEPATICA.

The different varieties of Hepatica (Squirrel Cups) may
be forced as directed for Polyanthus. Some of the double
varieties, with their lovely red and blue flowers, beauti-
fully imbricated, are among the most desirable flowers for
forcing, a pot of any of them being a mass of bloom for

HOW TO FORCE PLANTS IN WINTER. 223

several weeks. They are also among the earliest spring
flowers in the open border.

Soil, rich loam and leaf mould.

Any of our hardy flowering shrubs may be forced for
the conservatory with very little trouble. Late in the
autumn, before the ground freezes, take up plants of
the desired kinds with a ball of earth, and either pot
them, or set them away in a cool, dry cellar.

When wanted for flower, bring them into the light
and heat of the conservatory, potting those put into
the cellar ; water freely, and in a few weeks they will
be a mass of bloom.

The most suitable plants for this purpose are the
early blooming spring shrubs, such as Weigela rosea,
ta gracilis, Spirea prunifolia, &c.

CHAPTER XII.

BALCONY GARDENING.

Situation. - Arrangement. - What to plant. CODE A SCAXDENS : Autumn
Treatment.

(224)

BALCONY GARDENING.

225

PLEASANT summer pastime, in
our climate, is balcony gardening.
In England, very pretty winter gar-
dens are fitted up in the balconies
by a collection of fine evergreens,
such as variegated • Hollies, Lau-
restinus, and Acuba Japonica, but none
l of these withstand our winter.
Yv/*" n England, they never have such burn-

^J ^J ing sun and such icy cold as we expe-

rience; such sudden changes of temperature as occur in
our climate are unknown, and many of the inhabitants
of our green-houses are there hardy plants. It is not
the winter's cold which kills many of our plants, it is
the sun. The plant is frozen hard by a zero night ; at
morning, the sun comes out warm, and, while the air
around may be cold, the plant is thawed ; at night, it is
again frozen ; then thawed. Is it strange the plant dies ?
Therefore it is that many plants will grow and thrive on
the north side of your house, which, on the south, are
winter-killed. The remedy is simple : protect from the
winter's sun, and your plants will not be winter-killed.
In this climate a pretty display of green may be kept up

226 BALCONY GARDENING.

on a balcony in winter, by a lot of small, hardy evergreens,
such as white and pitch pine, hemlock, and spruce ; but
even these, on a sunny exposure, grow dingy and suffer;
therefore we say, balcony gardening must be a summer
pastime.

The balcony should face the south or east, so as to ob-
tain the morning sun : there are few flow.ers which succeed
in the shade.

Now, we may either grow our plants in pots, or fit up the
balcony with neat boxes ; but in either case the outside of
them must not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun ; it
would heat and parch the earth so nothing would succeed.
A good way to prevent this is to make a board lining round
the inside, and fill a space of three inches with straw, tan,
or moss, between the outside and your boxes. Fill your
boxes with a rich soil, composed of one part loam, two
parts leaf mould, two parts decomposed manure. Put an
inch of " crocks," or broken pots, in the bottom, to secure
drainage, and have a few augur holes in the bottom of each
box to allow the surplus water to drain off. Now, the
boxes being all prepared, and the season the first of May,
what shall be planted?

Yet first, do not plant too much ; you have only a balcony,

BALCONY GARDENING. 227

not an acre lot, therefore be content with a few good plants,
remembering that by trying to grow many you will succeed
with none ; each plant will crowd its right and left hand
neighbor, and all will become drawn and weak.

If your balcony is small, do not attempt to grow shrubs,
but be content with climbers for the sides, a few hardy
herbaceous plants, and annuals. If you have plenty of
room, grow as much as you can without crowding.

Now, as we said, let the season be the first of May, and
supposing we have a sizable balcony, all fitted with boxes
filled with prepared soil, what shall we plant ?

First, a Weigela rosea, — one of those beautiful exotic
shrubs introduced from China, and bearing, in June, lovely
bunches of pink flowers changing to white. Let us 'set
this in one outside corner, and on the other side, to match it,
plant a Spirea prunifolia, a beautiful species, which, about
the middle of May, puts on an emerald jacket, and buttons
it with innumerable silver white buttons. Let us now
select climbers to grow up over the window, to be planted
at each side, close to the wall of the house. We need
something that will endure the hottest sun without injury,
for our wall is of brick, and a July sun against a brick wall
is very often scorching. It will be too hot for honeysuckles

228 BALCONY GARDENING.

or woody- climbers, unless we shade them for several years,
until they get well established, and can cover the walls
with their leaves. Morning Glories would suffer, and Nas-
turtiums be dried up by the heat. We must have a stove
climber, or certainly one which will endure great heat, and
there is just the plant we need, and very common too, one
withal with which the common complaint is it does not
flower. We can, however, flower it, and if the season be
long, ripen seed, for we have what it needs, heat.

Let us, then, get two or more plants of the climbing
Cobea (C. scandens). It is better to buy plants than raise
seedlings ; you thereby gain a month. The plant is a rank
grower, with stout, herbaceous stems, and fine thick foliage,
and" produces large, purple bell, or rather cupped flowers, all
summer. These flowers are very showy, and with plenty
of heat color finely. Set the plants in a rich soil, and be
sure they have plenty of water ; they are rapid growers,
and will, in luxuriance, almost equal the famous bean stalk
of the fairy tale.

A trellis must be provided ; those of small wire are the
best. Place it where you will, the cobea will follow, for
the plant grows twenty feet in a season. There it will
bloom and hang with long festoons of foliage, gay with

BALCONY GARDENING. 229

purple blossoms and fantastic seeds. But give plenty of
water ; it is a thirsty plant, and in a situation like ours will
drink largely. The first frost will, however, turn it black,
so if we want the permanent climbers, the cobea will
prove a good nurse for them. Plant them with the cobea ;
it will shelter them, but be careful not to let it kill them by
its exhausting the soil, filling the box with roots, or twining
around them.

Now, we need climbers for the sides of our balcony, and
they should be planted C!OSD to the outside of our box, and
here we have a large list to choose from. Maurandia Bar-
clayana, with blue, foxglove shaped flowers, is a little gem
of a twiner ; then there is M. rosea, with pink, and M.
alba, with white flowers. These should be raised from
cuttings, or plants purchased. Seedlings do not bloom till
late,* and we wish flowers all summer.

Then we have the large family of Nasturtiums, both the
large and small flowered varieties ; these all do well ; then
scarlet beans, morning glories, the pretty little cypress vine,
the canary bird flower (Tropceolum aduncum), sweet peas,
and that pretty vine commonly known as Madeira vine,
which comes from tuberous roots, which may be any where
procured.

20

230 BALCONY GARDENING.

In fine, any of our annual garden climbers, or the more
tender green-house summer bloomers, such as Loasa, Ca-
lampelis, Physianthus, and a host of others, will succeed.
To fill our boxes we have now a host of annuals, biennials,
and herbaceous plants to choose from ; and here we are at
fault. To give a list of all pretty and desirable, would
exceed the limits of this work, and tastes and fancies differ
so much that to select is difficult. Mignonette, Indian
Pinks, Sweet Allyssum, Drummond's Annual Phlox, and
Nemophila, will please all. These from seed. For bedding
plants, Verbenas and Heliotropes, and if you have room, a
scarlet Salvia. For herbaceous plants, a Larkspur (D. for-
mosum is the best), Dielytra, and for early "spring some
clumps of dwarf Iris, and a plant of Bloodroot.

We must find room for a few of the fine hybrid Gladi-
olus ; if we can have but two, let us choose Penelope and
Brenchleyensis for vigorous growth and fine contrasts of

*

color. Then a half dozen of the gay Tiger flower, of the
two species, red and yellow, (T. pavonia and conchiflora)
will occupy but little space, and make a fine show.

Now, with one third of the plants we have mentioned,
the largest balcony would be overstocked, and with a judi-
cious selection all will be gay until the frost kills out-door
flowers.

BALCONY GARDENING. 231

Then prepare for winter ; dig over the boxes, pulling up
roots of dead plants, being careful not to disturb perennials.
And plant a dozen good hyacinths, fifty crocus, a few jon-
quils, and a hundred snow-drops, for early bloom the next
spring. When severe frosts come, cover half a foot of
coarse manure over your boxes, laying down under its pro-
tection your hardy climbers, such as honeysuckles, clema-
tis, trumpet flowers, and wistaria, if you have them, or
else mat them up carefully in straw or old bass mats.

Now you have only to enjoy your flowers in the memory
of the past summer, or in anticipations for the future, un-
less, with us, you would have flowers in winter, and will
devote an hour each day to window gardening, or study
with us, in the next chapter, the Wardian Case.

CHAPTER XIII.

CANNOT have a hot-house! I have no
room for a cold frame, and no suitable
window for plants ; yet the win-
ter is long, with nothing fresh
and green to cheer me. Is there no way I can grow
flowers ? " exclaims some one, almost in despair

(232)

THE WARDIAN CASE. 233

Patience a while, my friend; this chapter is for your
benefit.

Flowers are so universally loved, and accepted every
where as necessities of the moral life, that whatever can
be done to render their cultivation easy, and to bring them
to perfection in the vicinity of, or within the household,
must be regarded as a benefaction.

But in the midst of the smoke and dust of the city
there is but one way to have real verdure, in the freshness
of its original strength and life, and that is, by the culture
of it in Wardian cases.

Not only may many ornamental plants be thus preserved
in full beauty in the midst of a dry, dusty atmosphere, but
the rarer and more delicate forms of vegetation, which
refuse the tenderest care under ordinary circumstances,
readily submit to domestication, and manifest high develop-
ment of beauty in these cases, if the requirements of their
constitutions are severally fulfilled.

It was in the year 1829 that Mr. Ward placed the
chrysalis of a sphinx in some mould, in a glass bottle,
covered with a lid, in order to obtain a perfect specimen of
the insect. After a time, a speck or two of vegetation
appeared on the surface of the mould, and to his surprise
20*

234 THE WARDIAN CASE.

turned out to be a fern and a grass. His interest was
awakened; he placed the bottle in a favorable situation,
and found that the plants continued to grow, and main-
tain a healthy appearance. On questioning himself about
the matter, the answers readily presented themselves, inas-
much as air, light, moisture, and the other - requirements
of the plants, were contained within the bottle. This
was the first Wardian case.

The experiment was extended ; the case was shown to
be self-supporting, and admirably adapted to some kinds
of plants. Further experiment showed that while the
Wardian case, as an air-tight structure, was in many cases
a success, yet for a great proportion of plants a change of
air is necessary, and thus at the present time the Wardian
case is simply a green-house on a small scale, ventilation
and heat being provided according to the requirements of
the plants grown.

In a close case some ferns will live and flourish; others
will maintain their beauty for a time, and then perish.

In a close case it is impossible to raise flowering plants
of any kind, and whatever may be grown in such a struc-
ture will be more or less drawn, spindling, and sickly. The
glass will usually be in a semi-opaque condition, from
excessive condensation of moisture.

THE WARDIAN CASE.

235

Let us, however, regard ventilation as a necessity. The
Wardian case becomes a miniature green-house, and we
can grow almost any thing. Before, we were confined to'
ferns, because of all plants they bear a damp imprisonment
with wonderful patience ; but now the field is open for the
introduction of flowers of the choicest kinds, and by apply-
ing heat, the working department of plant propagation
may be carried on in-doors with success. In the design
of an oblong, rectangular case, graceful outlines may be
attained by the adoption of the following proportions :

First, determine the general dimensions of your case ; then,
whatever is to be its length, let the width be nearly one
half. If from right to left it is to measure thirty-two
inches, let its breadth from back to front be fourteen or
fifteen. The height of the glass sides should be the same

236 THE WARDIAN CASE.

as the breadth of the case. Then to roof it, let the
summit of the roof be formed of four sloping sides,
surmounted by a flat top ; and let the flat top be as much
above the edges of the four sides as half the height of
those sides ; then you will have an angular object, pos-
sessing as much grace as can be infused into the simple
rectangular design. One side of the top should be fixed
on hinges, so as to give occasional ventilation. The
material for the frame may be metal or wood.

Now, it will be better to have a stand made expressly for
it, with four legs, and an elliptical arch of fretted work, to
break the monotony of straight lines. The stand may be
varied very much to suit individual taste ; light work is
more suitable than heavy carving. Of course, the prin-
ciples of art may be applied to glass structures in many
ways, so as to insure grace of outline.

The above has only been given by way. of example;
every variation may be adopted, but it may be remarked
that imitations of villas, temples, with many corners, and
fancy convolutions, or any intricate design that may be
adopted for a Wardian case, is more likely to produce
puerility than grace. Let the form be simple, and the
proportions symmetrical, and you will not hereafter fail
to be pleased with your work.

THE WARDIAN CASE. 237

An ingenious mind will suggest numerous designs for
the purpose, and of these, built structures are always
preferable to the mere glass dome or bell, as they can be
ventilated and arranged with greater ease.

In England, Wardian cases are often built in windows,
by removing a portion of the lower sash, and building
into the room of the required size, with the top flat,
sloping, or domed, as fancy may suggest. In our climate
this would seldom be practicable, for our winters would
chill the plants ; it might do, however, for eight months
in the year.

The simple fern glass makes a cheap Wardian case ; it
is merely a common glass dish, with a rim, into which
is fitted a glass dome or bell. It answers well for

238 THE WARDIAN CASE.

ferns, but not for flowering plants, as the atmosphere
is too close. Unless the pan is porous, proper drainage
must be secured, and water must be sparingly given,
as it can only, if in too great a quantity, be got rid
of by evaporation, during which process the plant may
be injured. The ferns best adapted to these cases are
those that love shade, moisture, and a close air, but
even with these a little ventilation should be given to
prevent damping off.

A flower pot, with a rim to receive a hand-glass,
makes a nice little Wardian case : these could be
obtained at any potter's, could be made shallow, and

are inexpensive. The common Florence flasks, in which
salad oil is imported, make very pretty little cases for
the culture of delicate forms of vegetation. A good
way is, to suspend a row of them along a shady window ;
in some, grow terrestrial plants, in others, delicate water

THE WARDIAN CASE. 239

plants. They may be half filled with soil, and the
seed sown. The daily growth may thus be watched,
and very many interesting lessons learned. The flasks
should be covered with a piece of oiled silk, so arranged
that it can be removed for supplies of air and water.
The only matter of importance in the management is, to
keep the rays of the sun off, or only to allow them to
shine very faintly, for a single hour's exposure to a hot
sun would bring destruction on the whole.

It has been recommended that all Wardian cases
should have a double bottom, to insure sufficient drain-
age, as the evil most frequently experienced is sodden
roots, caused by standing water. This, though a good
arrangement, is by no means necessary. The proper
drainage may be secured by broken potsherds and char-
coal, laid along the bottom to the depth of an inch.
The water will, of course, drain into this, and may be
drawn off by a little stop-cock under the case, and hidden
by one of the legs.

The depth of soil should not be greater than nine
inches ; too great depth will give a damp, heavy soil,
which will be uncongenial to the roots.

It is also advisable to make arrangements for a com-

240 THE WARDIAN CASE.

plete change of the plants at any time. It is, there-
fore, not advisable to plant your case by rilling earth
directly into the table ; unless, indeed, you grow your
plants in pots, and plunge them in the soil, so that they
may be frequently renewed. The best plan is to have
zinc pans, one or more, according to the size of your
case, fitted closely to the inside of the case ; these
may be planted and changed from time to time. One
may have two sets, which can be renewed at a neigh-
boring green-house, and thus a perpetual display of floral
beauty may be obtained.

However skilfully managed, a change of vegetation
in the case may now and then be desirable, and it is
easily effected by means of duplicate pots or pans.

The frame of a Wardian case may be wood or metal ;
wood is least likely to be affected by sudden changes
of temperature ; metal is less liable to decay.

The frame of our largest case is of bronze, but probably
the best metal is galvanized iron.

The pans should be of zinc or galvanized iron.

The advantages of the Wardian case may thus be
summed up : —

You may grow in them many plants which a single day

THE WARDIAN CASE. 241

of parlor culture would greatly injure or destroy, since
they are impatient of a dry heat. Delicate ferns and
lycopodia are at once destroyed by the dry atmosphere
of our parlors, but develop, in full beauty, in a Wardian
case.

Again, you may succeed with them if you have but
little sun. This must recommend them to residents of
cities, where the sun often gives but little light in the
parlors, being shut off by high walls, and where win-
dow plants become weak and blanched, or are long-
drawn, ugly specimens, with weak, sickly blossoms.

Another feature of a Wardian* case, which is a source
of unfailing delight. All well know that a winter bouquet,
as procured from a florist, in a few hours loses its fresh-
ness and beauty, and a few days are sufficient to convert
it into a dry, unsightly mass. If the bouquet be placed
inside a Wardian case it will preserve its freshness for a
long time. It is better, however, to arrange the flowers
in a shallow dish of water, taking care the petals do not
touch the water, as thus they would soon mould ; if the
stems are inserted in a dish of wet sand, or merely
in the earth of the case, it will answer every purpose.
Our only care with camellias is to place them on the surface
21

242 THE WARDIAN CASE.

of the soil. The water in the dish does not become foul
unless the flowers begin to decay ; should this be the
case, a little powdered charcoal will at once arrest the
tendency.

We have found many flowers to last very long in per-
fection. Thus, camellias, two weeks; azaleas, from two
to four weeks ; daphne, ten days ; allamanda, four days ;
the scarlet bracts of poinsettia, six weeks ; heath, from
one to three weeks; roses, five days; diosma (the green
sprigs), four weeks; chorizema, one week ; cyclamen,
three weeks ; mahernia, eight days ; cinerarias, two weeks ;
calceolarias, one week; pinks, ten days; heliotropes, and
other thin-petalled flowers, three to six days; geraniums,
from six to ten days ; orchids, such as Cattleya and
Oncidium, from six to ten days. Care must be taken
not to have the case so damp as to cause mould to
collect on the flowers ; experience will be the best teacher
in this respect.

A very simple case may be constructed by procuring a
shallow, round, glass dish, about two feet in diameter;
set in this a glass dish two sizes smaller, and about three
or four inches deep ; fill the outer dish with water,
the inner with earth, and plant your ferns. Procure a

THE WARDIAN CASE. 243

hemisphere of glass, large enough to cover the smaller
dish, and to rest its rim on the water of the larger.
The water prevents the admission of air, and the only
care is to see that it never entirely evaporates from
the outer dish. Your case is done; and with a little
ventilation, your plants will grow with a vigor and
freshness unknown to you before. These common cases
may be made of any size, and any clear glass will do as
a cover. The lower dishes may be common stone ware,
and the cover one of the glasses used by confection-
ers to cover cake, or what is better, a common plain or
tubulated receiver, which may be procured at any glass
house, or of any dealer in chemical ware.

.... By placid lakes,
Deep in the forest's leafy shade,
Wave-plumaged ferns and filmy brakes,
In verdant tracery arrayed.

N the matter of ven-
tilation of Wardian
cases, too little is un-
derstood. Ferns, and a few kindred plants, may be grown
in air-tight cases, but there is no objection to occasionally
admitting air to a Wardian case.

(244)

STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 245

The principal care necessary is to see that the case
does not suffer from want of water. The moment the
door is opened, or the glass raised, the moisture, which
was suspended in the air, or condensed on the sides
of the case, flies off, and an equalization of temperature
begins between the air in the case and that in the room.
That in the case soon parts with its moisture, and becomes
dry and unfit to sustain the plants in health and beauty,
unless the earth in the case is again watered. When too
much water has been given (which is readily seen by the
glass always remaining clouded), opening the door and
admitting external air is necessary to the health of the
plants. In this matter, experience will be the best teacher.
Few cases are perfectly air tight, and usually enough air
will be admitted through cracks and ill-fitting shades, for
the health of ferns and lycopodia. The advantage of such
cases is, that they are sufficiently close to exclude dust and
noxious gases, yet admit of ventilation at times favorable
for the operation.

For cases made on the ordinary principle, that is, as close

as ordinary workmanship will make them, the best plants are

ferns and lycopodia, because these naturally love a close,

moist atmosphere, and whatever facilities the case may

21 *

246 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES.

afford for the admission of atmospheric influences, such
flowerless plants need less ventilation than most other
kinds ; and even in the case of flowering plants, those
which prefer moisture and partial shade are the most
suitable.

Of course different ferns and plants require different
culture, but most will thrive under one general system.
The soil should be one part peat, one part leaf mould,
one half part silver sand ; small bits of charcoal should be
mixed in. The soil should be broken, not sifted, and
should be of such a consistency that when wet it
should be crumbly, and not pasty. The materials should
be well mixed by hand.

We have also grown ferns successfully in a soil com-
posed of one part peat, one part sphagnum moss, chopped
fine, and one part silver sand.

The planting of the case may be varied to meet the
taste and fancy. The primary object is to secure perfect
drainage ; and for ferns, an admixture of broken pot-
sherds with the soil permits a freer circulation of air
around the roots, which conduces much to a healthy
growth.

If your case is large, and sufficiently high, a miniature

STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 247

rockery may be formed, with some graceful fern occupying
the top, and the smaller kinds clustered at the base. In a
small case it is, however, not advisable to attempt any such
effect, but to plant in rows or clumps.

Care must be taken not to crowd the plants, nothing is
gained by it.

Having selected our plants, place them firmly in the
position they are to occupy; cut off all damaged and
decaying fronds, being careful not to injure any young
shoots. Level or elevate the surface of the soil, covering
or picking out any protruding lumps. If the plants are in
pots, sunk in the soil, draw the earth over the rim of
the pot, so as to hide it, being careful not to thereby bury
the plant too deep.

Now, as to watering. Ferns love shade and moisture,
but this is no reason they should be shut up in darkness, or
drenched with water, as is too often the case. As soon
as the case is planted, give a slight watering with a fine-
rosed watering pot, to settle the soil.

Shade the case for a few days, giving free ventilation
until the plants are established ; if the case is open for a
few hours each day it will be sufficient. Water thus
whenever the soil seems to need it, which is easily known

248 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES.

by the appearance of the plants ; the great danger is in giv-
ing too much moisture ; the soil then becomes sodden, tha
young fronds decay, and the older fronds collect mould.
The soil should at all times be moist, but never wet.

As to general ventilation, when the plants are fully
established: The requirements of different plants are so
various that no rule of universal application can be given ;
flowering plants need the most, ferns and lycopodia the
least.

Light is essential, and a few hours of gentle sunlight are
beneficial. The direct rays of a hot sun should be avoided.
When the sun is on the case keep it closed, unless the soil
has become too wet. Of course dead leaves must be
removed, and all kept clean.

Let us now consider the adaptation of the Wardian case
to flowering plants. And we must frankly state that the
case does far better for the exhibition and preservation of
flowering plants than for their growth.

If you have a green-house, bring the plants forward there ;
as soon as in bloom remove them to the case, sinking the
pots in the soil, and they will remain a long time in
perfection.

In the selection of plants those with variegated foliage
are to be preferred, as they are gay at all times.

STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 249

Gloxineas and achimenes grow and flower well, and are
very beautiful ornaments ; these we cannot otherwise grow
in our parlors.

Roses, pansies, and begonias thrive well, and bloom
profusely.

The grand point in the selection of plants is, to grow
only those together which have the same requirements of
light and moisture. Thus ferns and verbenas would never
succeed in the same case ; the moisture necessary for the
former would be death to the latter.

A very pretty stock of plants may be obtained from our
own woods. All our pretty mosses and ferns, and most of
our early spring flowers, thrive admirably. They should,
however, have a case to themselves, as they do not thrive
in company with rare exotics. These plants must be care-
fully taken up, and all sods shaken off, preserving of course
as much of the earth around the root as possible.

The objection to transplanting sods with roots of choice
plants in them to a Wardian case is, you of necessity get
strong roots of rank grass, which grow so rapidly as to hide
your ferns and mosses, and are also too apt to introduce
slugs and worms, which destroy your rarer plants. We
once lost a fine Maranta by a slug which we introduced in

250 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES.

some moss ; but probably the fellow was unused to such
luxurious living, for after searching for him in vain for
several days (his depredations still continuing), we found
him one morning dead under a half eaten leaf; his appe-
tite had destroyed him.

Our native orchids, the Arethusa, Pogonia, Cymbidium,
and Orchis do well. The Trillium, so shy of cultivation,
deigns to live and bloom, and many of our meadow and
swamp plants thrive as if in their native haunts.

And now for the selection of plants.

Flowering Plants.

Gloxinea Rosen Mutabilis. "Rosy white.

" Cartonii. Pink, white lines.

" Annulata Superba. Blue, white throat.

" Grandis. Cream color, plum throat.

" WiUonii. Pink and white.

" Heliodorus. Blue and white.

" Alba Sanguined. White, rich, carmine throat.

" Alba Grandiflora. Pure white.

" Maria Van Houtte. White and pink lemon throat.

" Sir Hugo. Violet purple.

" Carlo Maratti. Violet, blue, and white.

" Guido Reni. White, crimson centre.
Achimenes Grandiflora. Rosy purple, white centre.
Longiflora. Deep blue.

" " Alba. Pure white.

" Picta. Yellow, spotted with scarlet.

" Ambrose Verschajfelt. White, marked with purple.

" Parsonsii. Salmon crimson, orange centre.

STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 251

Achimenes Meteor. Brilliant crimson.

Edmund Bosseir. White and blue.

Plants with Variegated Foliage.

Begonia Rex, Caladium Chant inii,

" Sir Colin Campbell, " Hastatum,

" Argentea Superba, " Bicolor,

" Queen Victoria, Croton Pictum,

" Makoy's Victoria, Dracena Ferrea,

" Funkii, " Terminalis,

" Duchesse de Brabant, Diejfenbachia Picta,

" Margareticea, Gesneria Zebrina,

" Picta, Maranta Regalis,

Plectranthus Concolor Pictus, " Fasciata,

Caladium Pcecile, " Alba Lineata,

" Marmoratum, Tradescantia Discolor.
" Argy rites,

Tall Ferns.

Polypodium Aureum, Gymnogramma Peruviana,

Pteris Argyrea, (Silver Fern),

Davillia Canaricnsis, Myriopteris Elegans,

Polypodium Appendiculatum, Nephrodium Molle, [bomm),

Grymnogramma Sutphztrea, " (var. Corym-

Gymnogramma Chrysophylla Nephrolepis Davilleoides,

(Golden Fern), Blechnum Pectinatum.

Dwarf Ferns.

Pteris Hastata, Blechnum Gracile,

Polypodium Vulgare, Lomarea Nuda,

Asplenium Adiantum Nigrum^ Asplenium Belangerii,

Aspknium Trichomanea, Davillia Bullata,

Adiantum Cuneatum, Hypolepis Rcpens,

" Concinnum, Pteris Tricolor.
Affine,

252 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES.

Apoda,

Denticultum,

Densa,

Wildenovii,

Paradozica,

Stonolifera,

Schotii,

Lepidophyllum,

Lycopodia, or Selaginella.

Argenteum,
Delicatissimum,
Africanum,
Microphytta,
Lobbii,
Caesium,
Atroviridis.

Climbing Ferns, &c.
Lygodium Scandens, Lycopodium Casium Arboreum.

Plants for Baskets.

Tradescantia Zebrina, Pothos Argyrea,

Hoya Bella,
utEschynanthiis Boschianus,

Zebrinus,

Pulchra,

Torrenia Asiatica,
Linaria Cymbalarea,
Rcpens.

HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS.

253

CHAPTER XV.

HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND TREAT-
I MENT OF IVY.

HAT a pretty amusement is the growth
of plants in hanging baskets or
pots ! It is very popular, and
deservedly so. The beauty of
the baskets, now fashioned in so
many artistic designs, is almost
sufficient to inspire a love of hor-
ticulture, if only for the sake
of growing the plant in so
pretty a pot. Yet we cannot urge
the growth of plants in these bas-
kets ; a porous pot is essential to
the health of a plant, and most of
these baskets are china, or glazed or painted.

Yet they may be used by setting the pot containing the
22

254 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS.

plant inside of them. Another objection is, that having
no outlet for the escape of the water, it collects in the
bottom, and, unless there is very ample drainage, which is
seldom the case, the roots are rotting in water while the
surface is dry.

Potting in these vases is very simple. If the plant must
be in the vase or basket, fill half full of broken potsherds ;
on these place a thin layer of moss, and fill up with pre-
pared soil ; shade the plant for a few days until well estab-
lished, then hang it in the window, and water slightly every
morning with a fine-rosed watering-pot ; as the plant
grows, dispose the branches to fall gracefully over the pot.

The plants most suitable for baskets are, —

The COMMON 'PERIWINKLE (Vinca Major and Minor),
and the pretty variety with variegated leaves. This is an
evergreen, and produces its pretty blue flowers in spring
and early summer. There is also a white-flowered and a
double variety.

LYSIMACHIA MTTMMULARIA (Money Wort). A pretty
little trailing plant, with dark, glossy leaves, and a pro-
fusion of dark yellow flowers in June. This plant should
be in a shady window.

LIN ARIA CYMBAL ARIA (Coliseum Ivy). A little gem

HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. 255

of a plant, and thriving well in the parlor. Leaves small ;
ivy-shaped flowers, like a little snap-dragon, purple and
white. Should be kept rather moist.

TKADESCANTIA ZEBRINA. A rapid growing plant, with
greenish purple leaves, with lighter markings on the
upper side, and dark purple below ; flowers small light
pink.

CEB.EUS FLAGELLIFORMIS. — A pretty species of cactus,
with pink flowers in summer, and long, pendulous leaves,
with close spines.

LOBELIA GRACILIS AND ERINTJS. These, and many
others of the family, are pretty, graceful plants, producing
blue or white flowers. Sow the seed in early spring, and
plants will bloom in June, and continue in blossom all
summer.

NEMOPHILA. A class of pretty annuals, with blue,
white, and spotted flowers. Treat as lobelia.

TKOPJEOLUM (Nasturtium). The various small-flowered
kinds do well, and are gay with flowers, if the pot is large
enough, and the soil not too rich.

SOLANUM JASMINOIDES. This pretty plant, previously
described, does well in a large basket.

SAXIFEAGA SARMENTOSA (Chinese Saxifrage). Very

256 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS.

pretty and common, producing long, hanging runners, with
new plants growing out every few inches. The flower is
white, produced on a tall spike, from the centre of the old
plant. It is not showy, and the bud, when young, should be
cut off, as the plant dies after blooming. Give plenty of
water.

CONVOLVULUS MAURITANICUS. A beautiful, new Morn-
ing Glory, with pink and blue flowers, with a white star in
the centre.

PELARGONIUM LATERIPES (Ivy-leaved Geranium). Makes
an excellent plant for a basket, and will do well with little
care ; the variegated-leaved variety is very fine.

DISANDRA PROSTRATA. A pretty, free^growing plant,
with long, slender stems, clothed with roundish leaves, and
bearing small, yellow flowers, of no particular beauty;
cultivated more for its freedom of growth than for its
flowers. Grows in any light, loamy soil.

One of the most serviceable trailers is the plant com-
monly known as German Ivy (Senecio Scandens) ; it is
of most rapid growth, with light green leaves, studded
with pellucid dots, and never troubled by insects. As
a screen for a window, or covering for a wall, it is
most valuable. It is easily propagated, every joint root-

TREATMENT OF IVY. 257

ing if placed in the earth. The flowers are straw-
colored, and often produced in greatest profusion. The
plant is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and has
been introduced many years. It is admirably adapted for
baskets.

IVY.

This plant, in some of its varieties, is probably the most
popular ornament of the parlor. The ease of culture, its
beautiful foliage, its rapid growth, and evergreen character,
all combine to make it a favorite.

The soil should be a rich loam ; the richer the soil
the more rapid will be the growth. Yet avoid stimu-
lating manures.

Slips root readily, taken off at any leaf joint, and placed
either in earth or water ; in the latter they will soon
throw out roots, and may then be transferred to pots.

The only precaution to be taken in growing ivy is to
keep it from frost while in growth ; and if frozen, to keep
the sun away from it, thawing it out with cold water.

In summer the plants may be set out of doors, and will
make vigorous growth.

There are many species, of which the most common is
22*

258

TREATMENT OF IVY.

Hedera Helix, the common twining ivy, a native of Europe,
of which there are many varieties. The leaves of these
varieties vary very much, and many distinctions have been
founded on these variations. There are two very beautiful
kinds, the silver and golden, the foliage being beautifully
variegated with white and gold. The following cuts will

show how these differ in foliage, all being taken from living
leaves, though some are necessarily reduced in size to
accommodate them to our pages.

The Tree or Aborescent Ivy is merely a form of the com-

TREATMENT OP IVY.

259

mon variety, which is shown by its returning to the primal
form not ^infrequently. The leaves are entire, and the
plant often retains its arborescent form for years.

H. Rcegneriana is a variety with large, heart-shaped
leaves, which is much esteemed.

H. Ti. digitata, the palmate or hand-shaped Ivy is a

pretty variety, of rapid growth ; the leaves are small,
dark, and veined. This is often called, erroneously, the
Irish Ivy.

H. Canariensis is the Irish, or Giant Ivy ; the leaves are
five-lobed, and larger than those of the common ivy.

Almost all the varieties of nurserymen s' catalogues are
merely forms of these, with peculiar foliage.

260 TREATMENT OP IVY.

The Golden Ivy is a splendid plant ; when the young
leaves come out it resembles a mass of yellow flowers.

Ivies are grown in hanging baskets, around windows,
made to trail around picture frames and looking glasses ;
indeed, they may be made decorative in the highest
degree.

The plants should always be well supplied with water,
though it should never be allowed to stand at the roots.
Large plants of the common varieties may be procured for
fifty cents. The ornamental foliaged varieties are some-
what dearer.

If you have ivy growing out of doors (and it will thrive
if you keep the winter's sun away from it), a pretty effect
may be produced by cutting large branches, and keeping
them in vases of rain water. They will grow well all
winter, and planted in spring make nice plants for
autumn.

The plant commonly known as German Ivy is not an ivy ;
the botanical name is Senecio Scandens. It is deservedly
popular, from its rapid growth and its freedom from insects.
We have, in a former paragraph, treated of it more fully.

The Coliseum Ivy is a species of Snap-dragon, as may be
seen from an- examination of the flowers, and a very pretty

TREATMENT OF IVY.

261

plant it is ; botanically it is Linaria Cymbalaria, and is
mentioned more fully in the early part of this chapter.

Five-leaved Ivy is the Virginia Creeper or Woodbine
(Ampelopsis Virginicci)-, a native of our woods.

The Poison Ivy is Elms Eadicans or Elius Toxicoden-
dron, and not of the same family as any of the above.

CHAPTER XVI.

THE WALTONIAN CASE.

Definition. — Form. — Construction. — Capacity. — Heating. — Lamp. — Oil.

— Gas'. — Pots.— Sand Bottom. — Description of Case. — Various Sizes.

— Advantages over Hot-bed. — How to make a Cutting. — Waltonian
Principle applied to Wardian Case.

IGHTLY considered, a Waltonian Case is a
drawing-room propagating house. It is
not a heated Wardian case, unless
we define a Wardian as a par-
lor conservatory ; then the
Waltonian is a parlor stove or
hot-house. Any glass frame or case,
in which the air is warmed by the applica-
tion of heat, either directly from a lamp, or by means of
hot water, would be a Waltonian case.

The first invention of Mr. Walton, from Avhom the case
is named, was placing a tin case, filled with hot water,
inside a wooden box, covered with a glass. The air inside

(262)

THE WALTONIAN CASE. 263

was kept close and warm, but there was not power enough
to raise temperature very much, nor sufficient to root cut-
tings. Bottom heat, which is one of the features of the
Waltonian case, was at first entirely wanting.

By much experimenting many changes were made and
improvements introduced, until now the Waltonian case is
the best method an amateur can use to supply himself with
bedding plants. It is a hot-bed, without the dirt and in-
convenience ; an ornament instead of an unsightly object ;
inexpensive, and yet accomplishing wonders ; an indispen-
sable aid to the amateur florist.

As far as we know, these pretty little cases are not. made
in this country ; they may, however, be imported for about
ten dollars each, and expense of freight and exchange.
We trust, however, in our description to be sufficiently in-
telligible to render their construction an easy matter.

We can, however, lay no claim to originality in this
chapter ; we have but collected all the best information on
the subject.

Now that the best form, the best measurements, and the
exact details of construction have been determined by ex-
periment, no one, however previously ignorant of ordinary
gardening operations, need find it difficult to produce an

264 THE WALTONIAN CASE.

abundance of stock for the garden, the green-house, or the
window ; for it may be a hot-house, an intermediate-house,
or a cold pit, just as you please, by a very simple regu-
lation.

The Waltonian case is fashioned in the style of a garden
frame, the frame-work being of wood, with side and top
lights, a boiler and lamp for supplying heat, and a tray of
sand, on which the pots are placed.

To give the reader an idea of the appearance of the
case, we will at once refer to the figure of one of sim-
plest construction, which we propose to describe partic-
ularly.

The frame-work is of wood, and may- be either plain
deal, or any ornamental wood with elegant mouldings.
The front and the two ends are fitted with glass, the
back is wholly of wood, and on :the top are two lights,
laid on loosely. There is room inside for thirty-two four
inch pots, in four rows of eight each, and these pots stand
on a thin layer of silver sand, kept constantly damp, and
heated by the boiler immediately beneath it. The lamp in
front is a common tin one, burning colza oil. (This oil is
much used in Europe ; it is a very fine oil, burning without
smoke, and is pressed from rape seed (Brassica oleracca) ;

THE WALTONIAN CASE.

265

with us the heat may be from a gas jet, a spirit, or fluid
lamp.) And the cost of working would be about fifty
cents a week.

The time the lamp will burn must depend upon the size
and the care used in trimming ; and to keep it burning

TIG. 1.

constantly would require but little care. Having glanced
at it so far, let us now take the case to pieces. The top
lights lift off, without troubling with hinges, hooks, or
attachments of any kind. They are simple squares of
23

266 THE WALTONIAN CASE.

glass let into a zinc bedding, and with a ring by which to
lift them. This plan allows them to be shifted, to give air
to any extent necessary. Having removed these, we find
the pots standing on clear, damp sand. When the pots are
removed it is an easy matter to lift out the whole of the
heating apparatus, by means of the two handles attached to
the zinc tray, and its appearance is that in Figure 2.

FIG. 2.

The upper tray B B is an inch deep, and in this, sand an
inch deep is carefully spread over. Attached to it is the
boiler A, which is in reality double, one portion enabling
the hot air and the smoke of the lamp to circulate round
the tank, and escape by means of the flue D, to which the
funnel E is attached when in operation. The tank itself
being filled by means of the vapor tube C, on which a cap
fits to prevent any excessive escape of steam. The boiler
holds about two quarts of water.

If we turn the tray upside down, we have the appearance
presented by Figure 3, where F is the boiler, and G the

THE WALTONIAN CASE. 267

entrance to the hot-air chamber, into which the flame of
the lamp enters when the case is at work.

Replacing the tray, it will be seen that the hole in the
boiler fits over the box that contains the lamp.

The flame of the lamp plays upon the inside tank, and
the smoke escapes by means of the flue G, which conducts
it out through the back of the case, quite away from the
plants. Practically speaking, there is but very little smoke.

FIG. 3.

The exact measurements of these several parts are in the
case above figured. Length of tray B B, thirty-four and
one-half inches ; breadth, seventeen inches. As the pots
stand inside the tray, and the latter fits the frame, there is,
therefore, a working space for plants of five hundred and
sixty square inches. Depth of the boiler A, two inches.
The entire case measures outside, along the front, thirty-six
inches and a half ; from back to front, eighteen inches and
a half, When placed at a window, or in a green-house,
light is admitted only at the top, but the case might be
made with lights at the back, and additional light would be

268

THE WALTONIAN CASE.

obtained ; but as the chief use of the Waltonian case is to
raise seeds and strike cuttings, a partial admission of light
is usually sufficient.

The Waltonian case may be made of larger or smaller
size. The following figure shows a case of larger size,
made on the close principle, by which all is entirely hidden.
X shows the door for the introduction of the lamp.

FIG. 4.

The interior arrangement of the case may appear some-
what complicated, especially the arrangement of the double
boiler. We therefore give the accompanying illustration,
showing the interior workings.

A represents the boiler ; B, the steam chimney, opening
into the middle of the case, through the zinc tray ; C G C,
the zinc tray ; D D D, outer cover to boiler, through which
the heat is conveyed from the lamp round the boiler, and

THE WALTONIAN CASE.

269

the smoke out through E ; F, lamp for heating boiler ; jET,
tap to draw off water.

The heat for a Waltonian case should be about seventy
degrees ; when the sun will raise this heat, the lamp may
be dispensed with. In managing the case, it is important
the sand should be kept constantly moist, or the heat will

FIG. 5.

not rise freely ; any excessive moisture may, however, lead
to damping off.

It is a good plan to sprinkle a little silver sand over the
surface of the pots containing the cuttings ; it is a great
safeguard against damping off. It is also important to sow
the seeds in small pots — the smaller the pots the greater
the safety.

23*

270 THE WALTONIAN CASE.

Those that require the greatest amount of neat must be
placed towards the centre, immediately over the lamp.

Watering must be regularly attended to, and the \vater
must be of the same temperature as the air in the case. It
is well to water them with a fine-rosed watering-pot, as
thus the plants and sand are both moistened ; any super-
fluous moisture may be removed by ventilation.

It is really surprising what an amount of work may be
done by a Waltonian case. In it plants, seeds, and cut-
tings may be so started that they may safely be hardened
off for the green-house or the window.

It has many advantages over a common hot-bed. In the
first place we are certain of heat, and can regulate the
temperature from any point up to nearly ninety degrees,
the ordinary temperature being from seventy to eighty
degrees.

It requires an experienced hand to make up a hot-bed
with dung, that shall give a steady heat for any length of
time ; and with the most experienced the accidents of damp-
ing off, burning upland failure of heat, are not uncommon;
but here we have simply to fill the boiler, light the lamp,
and then keep the case as close and damp as we please, or
give light and air, as circumstances require. There is no

THE WALTONIAN CASE. 271

soiling of hands, wetting of feet, or anxiety about frost and
mats ; and the most serious part of garden economy is
brought within a lady's reach and the merest beginner's
unripe judgment.

The small size of the case may seem to be against it, but
it will perform such an amount of work, when well man-
aged, as to meet the wants of most amateurs.

Geraniums, Fuchsias, and Calceolarias, may be rooted
safely, and in quantities sufficient for ordinary wants.

" Hardening off" the plants is simply removing them
from the heated centre to the borders of the case, as they
become well rooted, and thence to a cooler frame, or grad-
ually to the window.

The cuttings, if more than one in a pot, may be trans-
planted to separate pots in the usual manner.

In all other respects there is no difference in the manage-
ment of seeds and cuttings in a Waltonian case from that
employed in a common hot-bed.

And now to make a cutting. Usually it is very simple.
Take off a portion of the partially ripened wood (if too
soft or young it will damp off, if too hard or old it will
not put forth roots) ; cut it horizontally, or slanting down-
wards, at a joint, or just below a leaf; it being for verbenas,

272 THE WALTONIAN CASE.

fuchsias, tind heliotropes, from an inch to two inches long.
Plant it half its length in silver sand and loam, along the
sides of the pot, and put the pot in your case.

As a rule, take all cuttings of soft-wooded plants at a
joint.

Some hard-wooded plants, such as Heaths, and Epacus.
are rooted from tips of young shoots, in sand, with no
bottom heat. Gloxineas, and Begonias, are rooted from
leaves. Place the leaves in silver sand, keeping it moist,
and pressing them close on to the sand. A plant will
always spring from the junction of the leaf and stem, and
frequently every nerve will produce a plant.

The Waltonian principle may be applied to the Wardian
.case, and thus many rare hot-house plants may be grown in
the parlor.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

Proportion of Animal and Vegetable Life. — Form. — Construction. — Di-
mensions. — Situation. — Oxygenation. — Sunshine. — Planting. — Plants
suitable for the Parlor Aquarium. — Limnocharis Humboldtii. — Pro-
curing Plants. — General Directions.

T is not within the scope of our
present work to treat of
the general construction of
Aquaria, or their man-
agement in relation
to their living tenants.
Equally out of place will
it be to treat of the growth of
algae, or sea weeds, or the inhab-
itants of marine or salt-water aquaria.
We can only consider the aquarium, at
present, as a means of growing in perfection, in the parlor,
meadow and water plants, leaving for others the pleasing
duty of describing animate life in connection therewith.

(273)

274

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

It is well, however, to understand that no aquarium does
well unless stocked with some forms of both animal and
vegetable life. The goodness of the Creator has, in Nature,
proportioned the one to the other, each consuming what
is injurious to the other, and both together working with
that admirable adaptation which ever characterizes the
works of God.

FIG. i.

We must, in our imitation of the great provisions of
Nature, in an humble way, provide as she provides, and so
proportion our animal and vegetable life as to give health
and beauty to both. For this reason a few of the smaller
fish, and a quantity of snails, should always be introduced
into our aquarium, to preserve the proper balance by con-
suming surplus vegetation.

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 275

The best vessel for an aquarium is, doubtless, a tank of
a rectangular form, constructed of glass, with a slate bot-
tom, and mounted on a stand made for the purpose.

The simpler the outline the better, because, where we
have but a few broad sheets of glass, the view is less ob-
structed, and light, the great essential of success, can pen-
etrate to every exposed part of the collection.

In Figure 1 , the dimensions are as follows : Back and
front, three feet ; ends, one foot four inches ; depth, one
foot six inches. The bottom is of slate, and the four
sides are of plate glass. Four turned wooden pillars unite
the four sides, and four similar pieces bind the whole along
the top edge.

FIG. 2.

If shallower water is required, a square tank, say two
feet four by two feet four, and one foot deep, would be
suitable, as shown in Figure 2.

276 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

The weight of these tanks, when filled with water, is
very great, therefore strength is a matter for consideration.
The joints must be strong to resist internal pressure, and
the table firm enough to bear the weight. The slate bot-
tom and ends must have suitable grooves to receive the
glass, which should be heavy plate or very thick crown.

White lead putty may be used; there are, however,
many kinds of water -proof cement equally good.

The most elegant outline of straight lines and right
angles will be attained by giving the tank the form of
the double cube, in which the length is exactly double
that of the width, the width and depth being equal.

A window is the proper place for the- aquarium. An
abundance of light promotes the growth of the plants,
and secures that succession of tiny globules which the
vegetation sends up from the bottom, and which in the
sunlight rise rapidly to the surface. This is one of
the prettiest features of an aquarium. These bubbles,
which ascend from some plants in continuous streams, are
globules of oxygen, and are produced by the plants which
decompose the water into its elements, retaining the
hydrogen for their own growth, and liberating the oxygen.

When there is no sufficient exposure to the sun, none of

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 277

this aeration takes place ; the oxygen of the water is
exhausted, the plants become diseased, and the aquarium
is a failure. The difficulty is, to give sufficient light,
without affording too much.

Occasional sunshine, if gentle, is essential, but if the
water becomes heated, the vegetation will be injured and
the animal life be destroyed. A shade, sufficient to admit
the light, but to retard the fierce rays of the sun, will be
beneficial.

Ground glass, or oiled paper, may be used ; in fact,
any thing that will admit light without heat.

Suppose we have constructed our aquarium. The bot-
tom may be formed of loam and sand, or of small pebbles
and sand, in which almost any aquatic plant will flourish.

In planting, remove a few pebbles, lay out the roots, and,
by replacing the pebbles, hold them in their place.

For ordinary tanks, almost any of the common aquatic
plants found in brooks or ponds will be suitable.

It is an interesting fact, that the coarsest plants soon
adapt themselves to circumstances, and that their growth
becomes more delicate. The common Pond weed (Pota-
mogeton) appears too rank a plant for an aquarium,
but in less than a month its character becomes changed ;
24

278 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

it throws out delicate white roots, sheds its coarse foliage,
and acquires a smaller, neater, and more delicately veined
dress of leaves, and is a beautiful plant.

The same may be said of the pretty Starwort (Calli-
triche), which acquires a lovely emerald hue and a neat
growth.

The Callitriche ( C. aquaticd) of our streams differs some-
what from the European, but is a very pretty plant. The
flowers are minute and solitary, but the leaf is very orna-
mental. It is a pretty little annual ; grows in Roxbury,
near Boston.

The Limnocharis Humboldtii is a splendid water plant ;
an exotic, and producing bright yellow flowers in abun-
dance all summer, of the size of a half-dollar. It is
probably more easily grown than any water plant, for,
though a green-house inhabitant, our parlors would be
quite warm enough for it in summer.

The pretty white Lily (Nymphcea odorata) of our rivers
and ponds will do well, but needs a large tank.

The same may be said of the beautiful blue Lily of the
Nile (N. ccerulea), which will even bloom out of doors in
summer, but which requires care and heat to carry it
safely through the winter. This and the Limnocharis,

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

279

together, make a splendid show. They may be obtained
at many of our green-houses.

The Vallisneria Spiralis, or Tapegrass, is a very pretty
plant in an aquarium, and flourishes well. It is a common
inhabitant ot slow rivers, and its flowering and fructifica-
tion are very curious.

Callitriche or Starwort.

Vallisneria Spiralis.

The Anacharis Canadensis, a common inhabitant of oui
streams and ponds, is by no means the homely plant, in an
aquarium, which its name implies. The name signifies
" wholly unattractive." It will do well in any situation, and

280 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

grow very beautiful as its foliage becomes adapted to the

case.

Alisma Plantago, or Water Plantain, is a pretty plant,
with varying leaves, some round, others ovate, others
oblong, and producing small whitish flowers. It is found
very plentifully in ditches.

Myriophyllum Spicatum.

The various species of Myriophyllum, or Water Milfoil,
are rapid growing plants. Of these, the best are M. spica-
tum, a common inhabitant of deep waters, and M. amli-
guum, with its varieties, a native of ponds and ditches.

The many varieties of Potamogeton, or Pond Weed, are

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 281

all pretty plants, of easy cultivation. Those most com-
monly met with are perfoliatus, fluitans, natans, and
heterophyllus. They bloom above water, and need
constant thinning, or they would occupy the whole
tank.

Potamogeton.

The pretty Sagittaria, or Arrowhead, producing its spike
of white flowers in August, should not be overlooked,
or its near neighbor on the river shallows, the Pickerel
Weed (Pontederia Cordatd}, so conspicuous for its purple
flowers from July until autumn.
24*

282 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

The Water Star Grass (Scholleria Graminea), is a little
grassy plant, producing its pale yellow flowers in summer.
The growth is wholly beneath the water, the flowers only
coming to the surface.

The Water Buttercups (Eanunculus Aquatilis and
Purshii), the former with white, the latter with yellow

Ranunculus Aquatilis.

flowers, are beautiful aquatics. The divisions of the
foliage of the former are particularly graceful and
pretty, and no lover of beauty who has once grown it
would be without it.

The pretty Water Violet (Hottonia Inflata) is a little

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 283

gem of a plant ; the leaves are curious, and the flowers
rise on a stem whorled at the joints, and are at once
interesting and ornamental.

All the Bladderworts ( Utricularia) are pretty and com-
mon plants. U. inflata and vulgaris are the most common.

But we are sensible of the difficulty of giving any thing
like a complete list of the many natives of our ponds
and streams adapted to the aquarium. These we have
mentioned are, with the exception of the exotics, to be
found every where, but there are many others equally
common, and no less beautiful.

Our advice to the amateur is, go to the nearest pond
or stream, transplant what seems to you suitable, and
watch their growth and development. You will find
enough to admire in what are called our commonest
weeds, for the many species of water plants have been
sadly neglected, and their beauty is not appreciated.

Some bloom above, some below the water ; some pro-
duce foliage floating on the surface, others _. have it
suspended in the water. New plants will give you
new beauties, and you will the more reverence the
power of the Creator, by the study of these, his almost
unknown works.

284 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS.

As we have before said, the great element of success is
proportioning the quantity of animal and vegetable life.

The usual rule is, two fish to every gallon of water,
with snails to eat up any slime or refuse. If well
managed, the water need never be changed. To attain
this, you must use only healthy plants, and not too
many of them, and have the bottom of clean pebbles
and sand.

If the water evaporates, it must of course be re-
newed, and should it become stagnant, it may be aerated
by turning portions of it from one vessel to another.
Of course if decay of the plants takes place, or animals
die in the water, the only remedy is to empty, thoroughly
cleanse all, and begin anew.

The Wardian case and aquarium may often be very
prettily combined by raising rock-work in the water,
planting ferns, and other moisture-loving plants upon it,
and covering the whole with glass.

Where access to water can be easily had, a fountain
in the centre might be contrived, and the effect would
be most beautiful. There is, however, a water plant
which will thrive very well in the parlor, and require
but little care.

THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 285

About the middle of November, procure a large bowl, or
wide-mouthed vase, or, what is better, one of those fancy
stands, representing the trunk of a tree. Fill it with
water, and in it set a plant of Sarracenia Purpurea, the com-
mon side-saddle flower, or pitcher plant, of our meadows.

This plant is not only remarkable for its curious
pitchers, but is very ornamental in flower. With thi^
treatment it will soon begin to grow ; young leaves, 01
rather pitchers, will be produced ; the flower buds wil\
appear, and all winter the plant will be a mass of
fresh foliage. The only care is to keep the leaves clean,
and to refill the bowl when the water evaporates.

In conclusion, let us say, that in all the details of
management there is no teacher so good as experience.
In a volume like the present we can only lay down gen-
eral rules. The little minutiae, the daily care,, the cease-
less routine of attention, on which success so largely
depends, we cannot prescribe. Each amateur will find
those rules suited to his own case by experience and
practice ; but we trust we have, in our limited space,
said enough to urge upon all to undertake the study
of water plants, and the care and pleasure of an
aquarium.

The radiant blossoms, ever smiling, tarn
To gaze up to the Heaven.

CHAPTER XVI

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

PECIMEN PLANTS call for a few words
before closing this portion of our vol-
ume, for there is no department of flori-
culture so generally neglected. To grow a plant, and to
grow it well, are two very different things ; the former
may be donev by the mere tyro, who simply pots his

(286)

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 287

plant in good soil, and supplies water enough to keep it in
vigorous growth ; the latter is one of the highest arts of
horticulture, and very few of our professed gardeners un-
derstand any thing about it.

The general ignorance on this subject is the more
surprising, as all are ready to admit the beauty of a well-
grown plant, and to. decry the long-jointed, straggling
specimens, so often a disgrace to our collections. Yet we
see our green-houses filled with illy-grown plants, poor,
drawn specimens, struggling up to the light, and crowned
by a bunch of bloom, on stems several feet long, and entirely
destitute of foliage. All this is doing violence to nature ;
in their wild state, free and unconfined in the open air,
most plants and trees are symmetrical pictures of beauty.
Nature does all things well, and art but approaches perfec-
tion when it approximates to nature. Could our green-
houses be ample enough to allow to each plant the same
space and conditions of growth which it obtains in its
native climate, could we allow free room for both
roots and branches, each plant would be a specimen
needing only the free use of the knife to repress
and prune out too great luxuriance. Nature would do all
the rest ; a tree would develop into a tree, and when roots

288 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

and branches were, by a growth of a series of years, prepared
for the development, the display of flowers and fruit would
equal that of the same species in its native clime. In like
manner a bush, herb, or annual would attain all its full
luxuriance and proportions, and the art of growing speci-
men plants be simple indeed. But our space is limited, the
luxuriance of roots and branches must be restrained, and
the plant, by the cramping of the roots and pruning of the
branches, forced into early bloom. The desideratum is,
therefore, to obtain as much bloom as possible in a small
space. The question, — How is this to be done ? we
answer, — By growing specimen plants.

It is a prevalent error that an illy-grown plant produces
more bloom than one well-grown ; the former may come
sooner into bloom, but the flowers will neither be as fine
or as plenty as on the latter.

There are two methods of growing specimen plants:
one by confining the plant within a wire frame, and tying
out the shoots so as finally to hide it completely with
foliage and flowers, or by tying the shoots to stakes cause
them to assume a regular position, which stakes are soon
hidden by the foliage. The other method is, to grow the
plant slowly, so that the shoots become stout and stiff,

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 289

the plant bushy, and able to bear the weight of bloom
and foliage ; the former is best for climbers, or half-
climbers, but is much used by those \vho grow their plants
quickly; the shoots are weak, and without supports the
plant would have no shape ; the latter is the true way,
but the plants must be grown slowly, as otherwise the
requisite stoutness cannot be attained.

The one rule to be observed, whether in growing speci-
men plants for exhibition or for home decoration, is, Grow
your plants slowly,

We copy a few hints from an English work, where the
author condemns growing plants with supports, but
acknowledging that thus more blooms may be brought
into sight, declares it necessary in competing for prizes,
as the plants thus grown bear carriage well, which those
naturally grown do not. The distinction observed in his
remarks is between plants naturally grown or raised for
home decoration, and those artificially supported or grown
for exhibition. We have also, in many instances, changed
the language, and made many interpolations, in order to
adapt the article to our own locality ; we wish, however, to
give due credit to the writer, though in some things his
statements are erroneous : these we have corrected.
25

i

290 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

The great difference between growing plants for home
decoration and for exhibition will hardly be realized.
There was always an opposite mode of treatment required
in many particulars, but the system of showing has
become so widely opposed to judicious management at
home, that gardening for the home and the foreign
department affect us like two different sciences. The
necessary preparation for transmission from one place to
another, and constant jumbling about, has converted all
our natural plants into artificial ones. Not one produc-
tion in a hundred is shown in its natural form. We can
excuse this when we remember that plants have to be
taken for miles, jumbling up hill and 'down dale, over
rough roads and stone streets, before they reach their
destination, and then have to be got into the carts and
got home again the same day ; for, if the branches were
in their natural state, playing freely in the air, they would
be frayed to destruction by the mere action of rubbing
against each other. But we must own, at the same time,
that a plant, with every branch and bloom constrained in
its place, and bound mechanically to some formal sup-
port, is no more fit to compare with one fairly grown
and unconstrained than an artificial plant would be with

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 291

a real one. It is to the ambition of growers to produce
enormous plants that we trace the great change which has
taken place in our exhibitions.

There is as much difference in a plant grown properly,
and standing undisturbed in its place at home, and one
grown artificially in an iron cage, as it were, and all the
branches and blooms bent about so as to come to the
outside surface, as there is between the sham flower and
the real one ; and he who for one moment gives himself
the trouble to think of the formal, stiff, and unnatural
shape of plants at a show, and the beautiful free growth
of the specimens in a private collection or a nursery,
where there is no showing, will not hesitate to pronounce
those at a show altogether spoiled for the lovers of plants.

Nevertheless, those at a show form masses of flowers,
which in some measure compensate for multitudes of
wooden legs and iron bird cages. Geraniums, as for-
merly exhibited without sticks were very beautiful, far
before any thing we now have as specimens of growth,
though the prodigies of the present day rank far higher
as specimens of mechanical ingenuity and skill. The
system is altered ; plants naturally grown would stand no
chance against those with wooden legs ; the plants could

292 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

not be as large, nor could they show so many flowers with-
out being drawn. As now shown, they are always drawn,
and legs or supports are given them because drawn plants
cannot support themselves.

This mode of exhibition is a perversion of the nature of
the plant, and we can see no remedy for it unless it is in
the power of the judges to control it by giving the pref-
erence to plants naturally grown, and without legs or
supports.

In our remarks we do not, of course, moan to include
climbers, half- climbers, or trailers; we only censure growing
azaleas on hoops, pelargoniums on sticks, et id omne
genus.

The best growers freely acknowledge that props are
objectionable, for the reasons we have given above, but
they are necessary while size remains so captivating as it
is at present, and he is the best artist, we cannot say
gardener, who can make his props the least conspicuous.

The cultivation of plants for show, then, involves an
early and intimate acquaintance with the use of supports,
and in proportion as a man acquires this, he becomes care-
less as to whether his plants are drawn or not. He
stops his plants back that they may make more shoots

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 293

than usual, or than is graceful, because he wants all the
branches he can procure to make a surface of flowers,
and as soon as the plant assumes any thing like a mod-
erate size, twigs are placed to guide them outwards or
upwards, and at equal distances ; for all the harm it
would do, he might almost roll the plants about the floor,
without displacing a shoot or leaf. As the plant advances
beyond the distance provided for by the sticks or twigs
that support them, others must be placed there for as much
more growth as the specimen is likely to make. This
applies to all kinds of plants grown by propping with
wooden supports, — roses in pots, fuchsias, pelargoniums,
geraniums, to many of the hard-wooded plants, verbenas,
petunias, and many others.

There is yet another unnatural and yet popular mode
of growing plants for show. We have seen complete
iron frame-works or cages, and inside these the plants,
such as Rondoletia, Hovea, Eriostemon, Chorizema, and
many other plants of great merit, crowded, the stems dis-
torted all manner of ways, totally destroying the nature of
the plant, concealing its habit, and contriving to bring
just the shoots through upon the surface.

It is true these cages are made of a conical or a pyram-
25*

294 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

idal form, and by gardeners of taste, as near the natural
form of the plant as may be, and that sometimes the
shoots are allowed to protrude as far as they safely can,
to break some of the stiffness which too many have not
the ability to conceal ; but constraint seems to be the
prevailing appearance, and some of the most graceful of
our favorite plants are thereby rendered artificial. The
growing of plants for exhibition is, under these circum-
stances, almost a science of itself, and the chief evil to
avoid is that of allowing the specimens to get ahead of
the training, whatever that may be. Strong supports for
the centre branch, and very little else, will do if they
are to remain at home; but for exhibition, the several
branches must be supported independently, with upright
props of wood, until the specimens have attained, within
a season or two, the requisite size ; then they ought to
have their principal shift, and their "cages" must be
put to the pot or tub, and the branches trained to
the outer wires instead of to the uprights. By keep-
ing this frame well within the rim of the pots with
regard to size, and allowing for the growth of a few
inches outside, the plants will soon conceal the obnox-
ious appearance of the frame, because in many plants

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 295

even these shoots may be stopped back, and the lat-
erals make all their growth outside. It is at this time,
when we may at least either prune back irregularly, or
leave the uneven growth to make its own way, that
a good deal of the stiffness may be got rid of, and
some approximation to nature be made. Epacris, Hovea,
Chorizema, and many other plants which are naturally
weak in their branches or straggling in their growth,
being assisted up to a certain point and then allowed
to push naturally, may be produced much better even
in constrained growth, and may, to unobservant specta-
tors, appear to show a fine natural cultivation. The
more robust heaths, ixoras, and many other hard- wooded
plants, can be well grown without much support, if not
grown too fast ; but if too much excited, they will be
weak, and need props in plenty, instead of here and
there one.

The Fuchsia, which is a favorite exhibition plant,
may be grown very rapidly, but always at the ex
pense of quality. The fuchsia, for style and appear
ance, as well as for the full development of the caps
bilities of a variety, should be grown in a pyramid \
or conical form, and full of branches. They may ? «o

296 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

be well shown, and with fine effect, as standards, with
an umbrella-shaped head, — a mode of growth specially
adapted for showing off the drooping flowers. This mode
requires much care ; it is very difficult, unless the plant is
grown on a wire frame or hoop.

To grow fuchsias well and effectually the plant should
not be hurried. It should be strong in the main shoot,
and not be so weak as to require a prop. It should, at
the end of the season, be allowed to rest ; as soon as it
indicates a desire to grow it should be re-potted, not in too
rich a compost, and be pruned with short branches at the
bottom, shorter as we go upwards, till they are mere spurs
when we get half way up, and tolerably close at the top.
By growing the plant gently in the green-house, the
branches of the season will be multiplied greatly, and
with a very little checking, form a beautiful close cone or
pyramid (according as the plant has been pruned), full
of foliage and bloom, and with colors in perfection. The
fuchsia will also grow well as a bush. We have, to do
this, to stop the cutting when it is two inches high, and
to continue stopping all growth which is too vigorous,
and all early growth, directly two eyes can be left, so
that by inducing lateral shoots we secure a bush in

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 297

miniature at an early stage, and need only shorten
such branches as are getting on too fast for the re-
mainder. All weakly shoots should be cut away close
home, for they only weaken the rest and confuse the
order; branches should not cross each other, nor should
the plant get confused by reason of the number of
branches allowed to remain. The habit of the variety
under cultivation should be studied, for there are many
kinds grown which are worthless; a bad habit is seldom
compensated for by a good flower, because the fuchsia
depends for its value a great deal on habit.

Prince Albert, Gem of the Season, Duchess of Lan-
caster, Prince of Wales, Souvenir de Chiswick, Madame
Sontag, and Venus de Merlici, are all of fine habit. Few
can equal them in this respect, while all may lay claim
to most of the requisites of a good flower. Set them in
pots, in moderate soil (not rich) ; and after this give them
only water when they want it, and all the air and light
you can. They will scarcely require a shoot to be
lopped ; so fine is their habit, that unless accident
blighted the leader, they would be compact, and at
their season full of bloom. At the end. of the year,
when, as it were, they had done their work, the} would

298 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

lose their leaves, and only require to be kept from
the frost; they would want larger pots at the begin-
ning of the year, all the side branches shortened, and if
the leaders chance to be injured, they should be short-
ened to a strong shoot, and that trained upward by a
temporary support ; but it is far better to save the
original leaders. The next year's growth would be
better than the first. It would, however, be necessary
to thin out many of the shoots, because they would
otherwise be too thick and confused. They would be
one mass of bloom from top to bottom, and models of
what fuchsias should be ; but they must be grown without
heat the second year as well as the first,' and as a gen-
eral rule fuchsias should have no artificial heat; they
should be grown in a green-house, though we have
often seen them out doors ; but the changes of weather are
too severe for them, and though of brighter and firmer
color, and more robust growth, they lack much of the
grace and delicacy of tinting, which is so attractive in
the fuchsia. While growing they should have plenty

of water, and be shaded a little from the intense heat

f
of our summer's sun. The white corollaed varieties are

all of weak growth, and not adapted for specimens ; the

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 299

double varieties are, many of them, of good habit, but are no
favorites of ours ; the best of all is Sir Colin Campbell.

To grow plants for home gratification alone we need
not be at half the trouble, and certainly produce twice
the effect. We may allow them to grow without ex-
traordinary support. They have at most to be removed
Dn a hand-barrow from the stove or green-house to the
conservatory, and the natural play of the branches for
that short distance damages nothing. The shortening of
branches, the training and general management, have
reference only to their intended situations, and the prin-
cipal thing to guard against is, not to excite any thing
too much.

Very few things bear growing fast; it always makes
a greater distance between the leaves, and consequently
the plant looks poorly. But this is of the greatest
consequence, because more conspicuous when the plant
comes into flower, for bloom depends upon the num-
ber of branches in a given space,, and if the branches
and leaves are more distant, the bloom must be so
likewise. This is shown very conspicuously in plants
which bloom from the axils of the leaves, as fuchsias,
epacris, and others of the same habit. Besides, com-

800 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

pactness is a great point in all plants; not when car-
ried to confusion, which should always be avoided, but
when induced by moderate growth and judicious prun-
ing and stopping.

The Hovea, a plant very popular in England, but little
grown in this country, is never seen in good condition;
yet its treatment is very simple. We give, for illus-
tration, the method of growing a specimen, and the
rules apply to many hard-wooded plants of kindred nature
and habit. It naturally grows fast in excitable compost,
but can scarcely be grown with too little dung, or soil
too simple, so it be healthy and clean. The earliest
stopping, even when first struck as a cutting, is neces-
sary ; not more than the pair of leaves next the soil
should be left, and the eyes, throwing out two lateral
shoots, give us an opportunity of stopping both at the
first joint, and thus obtaining from each two more
lateral shoots, to be stopped in turn for the same
number again, and so continuing until there is a per-
fect bush ; but the plant cannot be neglected many
days. This constant stopping, until we have branches
enough, will produce an excellent plant. It is, then, by
taking off all branches that are in the way, and leaving

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 301

only such as will help to make a handsome plant, we
may allow the growth to go on till they bloom ; but after
flowering, the plant requires pruning as regularly as a
wall fruit tree, and the new shoots must be watched and
regulated, and the same provision made for the beauty
and symmetry of shrub as was made in the first instance.
Were the plant left to itself, and planted in a rich soil,
it could be made to grow six or eight feet in a single
season, and be altogether unmanageable in a season or
two, because the bloom only comes at the end of the
branches, and the long under portions are both leafless
and flowerless. If a plant has thus, through neglect,
become shapeless and unmanageable, the evil is past
cure ; the best thing to do is, to root cuttings and
throw away the old plant ; pruning would not remedy
the evil, for eyes break reluctantly on old wood, and
seldom with any regularity. To grow Heaths, as speci-
mens, requires great care, and the study of the habit of
the species. Some, like Epacris, run up to great length
of branches ; therefore, before we allow them to shoot
their full length, we must, by stopping, secure plenty
of them. In this one thing lies, also, the secret of
growing fine specimens of epacris.
26

I

302 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

Others are naturally of a bushy habit, and require
thinning out rather than stopping. But in all plants
we have to look well to the growing state when they
are manageable, for a very brief neglect, only for a
single season, will give us bare stems, naked under-
growth, ill shapes, and often unhealthy plants, and the
best thing we can do then is to strike the tops of
the young plant for young stock, and to cut down
the stems to within a few inches of the pot, for the
mere chance of their breaking and making fresh growth.
There is, however, one method by which we may
occasionally convert an ugly plant, with long, naked
stems, into a handsome standard; but there are few
plants which look well under such a change. One of
these is the Azalea Indica, in its numerous species.
If there be one straight stem among them, cut all the
others close down, and cut the branches of the single
stem off up to the part where the head is to begin ;
top the shoot to cause a side growth, and the head
will soon form well, but until the head is large enough
to be proportioned to the height of the stem the plant
will look poorly, and only be fit to remain in the
plant-house.

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 303

Fuchsias of some kinds, particularly Corymbiflora and
its varieties, naturally carry large bunches of blossoms,
tassel-like at the ends of the branches. The best thing
we can do is to remove all the side growth to the height
we wish the head to begin, to stop all the other branches
to two joints, until we get a sufficient number of branches
to hang all round, and then to let them grow to bloom.
The pendulous habit of the plant is favorable to this,
and the blooms fairly weigh down the most obstinate
of the shoots, so that the plant forms a pretty object.

These varieties of fuchsia do not receive the atten-
tion their beauties merit ; probably because they do not
bloom as freely as others with little care ; but a well-
grown plant is a conspicuous object in the green-house.
They also bloom with us at a season when other fuchsias
have not come on, that is, from February to May.

In growing plants for exhibition, we excite them to
what we call perfection by restraint ; for convenience of
carrying, we limit the size, and thus the number of flowers ; to
color, by unnatural means (this applies chiefly to out-door
flowers) ; to compactness, by vicious training. Specimen
plants may be made of hardy plants and shrubs, and of
annuals. The pruning and training must be adapted to

304 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

the habit of the plant ; it is useless to fight against
Nature. We may succeed in producing a monstrosity,
but depart far from perfection. To all growers we say,
study the habit of the plant, and be guided by Nature,
never attempting to be Nature's guide.

Before closing our article, we wish to give a list of
plants, which, generally neglected, make fine specimens.

And first, the Camellia, a plant naturally of most sym-
metrical growth, with but little pruning will make a
superb specimen.

The Daphne Odorata, never seen in good condition, can,
by a free use of the knife, be made a beautiful plant.

Azaleas will do well, and may be grown in almost
any form.

Acacias are mostly trees, and seldom make fine plants
under pot culture. Planted out in the green-house bor-
der, they grow large and look well. We may, however,
except some of the shrubby species — as Armata, Grandis,
and the newer kinds, which, being low growers, do well
in pots.

Achsenia Malvaviscus : a favorite plant with us, and
a superb sight when in fruit and flower. It possesses
the advantage of being never out of bloom. The kin-

HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 305

dred species of Hibiscus are pretty plants, but not gen-
erally grown.

Allamandas, Kennedia, Stephanotus, Combretum, Rhyn-
cospermum, and a host of other hard and soft-wooded
climbers, grow to perfection on balloon trellises, and if
the foliage is kept in good health, are pictures of beauty.

Pelargoniums and Geraniums need only to be grown
slowly, and to be properly pinched to make side shoots,
and are among the finest plants for specimens.

Orchids need great care, and the growth is slow ; but
well grown, are most splendid when in bloom. Nothing
can surpass well-grown plants of Cypripedium, Cattleya,
Lselia, Stanhopea, Oncidium, and hosts of others. The
Cyclamen, in perfection, is most beautiful, and many of
the Cape bulbs, in profuse flower and foliage, are very
pretty.

We need not now explore the widely extended region
of variegated-leafed and ornamental-foliaged plants. Those
who have seen the Cyanophyllum, Rhopalas, Cordylines,
Crotons, the many beautiful Caladia, arid the unap-
proachable and unique Alocasia Metallica, need not be
told what magnificent plants are given us for specimens,
and to those who have not seen them, no words can
26*

306 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS.

convey an idea of their beauties. In conclusion, we can
give no time for beginning to. grow a specimen ; for soft-
wooded plants, four or five months will suffice to make
a specimen from a cutting ; but many plants require
years to approach perfection. The general rules may be
laid down thus : —

Study the habit of the plant, and by it regulate your
treatment.

Grow your plants slowly, with plenty of light (except
orchids, some ferns, and lycopodia), and free circulation
of air.

Keep the plant from sudden changes of temperature,
and never let it suffer from want of. 'water, or become
pot bound. Do not be afraid to use the knife freely, —
prune whenever necessary, whatever you may sacrifice.

Grow your plant well first, and then the plant will give
you the bloom.

HE grass is wot with shining dews,

Their silver bells hang on each tree,
While opening flower and bursting bud,
Breathe incense forth unceasingly.

CHAPTER XIX.

OUT-DOOR GARDENING. — HOT-BEDS.

Uses. — Time of Preparation. — Construction. — Size. — Sashes. — Manure.
— Other Materials needed. — Height. — Materials for Potting. — Heat. —
Planting-. — Sowing in Bed. — Permanent Hot-Beds. — Watering. — Air-
ing. — Protection.

(307)

308

OUT-DOOR GARDENING.

HE bright days of spring have suc-
ceeded to the cold of winter. Day
by day the sun grows warmer, and in
spite of the occasional flurries of
snow, the snowdrop nods in the sunny
border, the crocus goldens the garden, and the
hyacinths and tulips look out from their win-
ter's sleep. Our window garden, a source of
unfailing pleasure during the months of snow and
ice, and now clad in its spring dress of glossy
leaves and gay flowers, fails to satisfy, and only makes
us long for a more extended range, a larger field of opera-
tions. Even our Wardian case, always "beautiful, claims
less of our time, and we eagerly watch each new
growth in the out-door garden. But as yet it is far too
early to begin our out-door work. Did we plant our seeds,
they would decay in the cold ground ; the delicate roots of
bedding plants would be chilled and die. There are yet to
be many days before we can trust to the capricious weather,
many days during which, little by little, the earth will be-
come dry and warm under the potent heat of the sun and
the sweet influences of the vernal breezes,

But still there is work that may be done, though it is as

HOT-BEDS. 309

}Tet too early to uncover the flower borders, or to turn over
the still damp and heavy soil.

We may build our hot-beds, and in these bring forward
the seeds and plants, so as to be ready to avail ourselves of
the first days of settled weather, and to insure an early
display of floral treasure in the flower garden.

It is out of our province, in this connection, to treat of
the hot-bed as a means of forcing early vegetables, or of
bringing forward seeds for the kitchen garden. Suffice it
to say, that by means of it, if Well managed, we may have
such spring vegetables as lettuce and radishes, from Feb-
ruary until they mature in the , open ground ; and that the
process of starting vegetable seeds is the same as that we
employ for flower seeds.

"We propose but to treat of the flower garden and its
adornments, and it will be quite early enough for our flower
seeds if we start our hot-beds about the first of April.

The making of a hot-bed which will keep the heat, and
not burn the plants, is by no means an easy task, and
often, in this branch of horticulture, the most experienced
gardeners fail ; the process seems very easy, but in this, as
in most gardening operations, success depends on a careful
attention to little details.

310 HOT-BEDS.

• A friend has kindly furnished us with his method, and,
as we cannot improve upon it, we give his instructions
almost in his own words, gladly availing ourselves of the
aid of one who, with his hot-beds, accomplishes wonders ;
and whose flower garden presents a gayer appearance
than that of many who have unlimited green-house facili-
ties at command.

To those who have a green-house, "or a forcing pit, the
hot-bed is not a necessity. With these aids it is easy
to raise flower seeds and cuttings Sufficient for every
want. We are writing more especially for those who
have no green-house, but to whom flowers are, never-
theless, a necessity. Such must depend upon the hot-
bed, and we would tell them how to make it.

And first we must make our frame. A good size for
our use is five by ten feet square, ten inches high in
front, eighteen in the rear ; with the ends shaped, of
course, to match. Let these be cleated so as to prevent
warping, and fasten together at the corners with hasps.
Let in, flush with the edge, narrow strips at proper dis-
tances for the sashes to slide on, with a narrower one in
the middle for a guide. These will accommodate four
sashes of proper proportions for glass eight inches wide,

HOT-BEDS. 311

which should be inserted in grooves, rather than by the
old method of puttying, as putty soon crumbles with
such severe exposure.

Now this work may be done by us, if we have but
a slight mechanical turn, or we may employ our carpen-
ter, who will construct the frame in a few hours. The
sashes can be bought at a low price, as they are always
kept for sale at any window factory. The whole struc-
ture, including sash bars, should have two good coats of
coarse paint, which will be most serviceable in protecting
it from the weather ; and if we can contrive to char any
portions which touch the ground, it will conduce much
to durability by preventing decay.

As we design manuring the garden, we buy stable
manure in March, wherewithal to do it. No matter if
it be coarse and cheap, we can improve the quality be-
fore autumn many fold, and be richly rewarded in the
process. We begin by throwing it in a heap, so as to
present as little surface as possible to the atmosphere,
and let it ferment, or, as gardeners say, *' heat."

Our frame is made.

We will now suppose the manure is ready to move,
and the time almost the first of April, long before it

312 HOT-BEDS.

would be safe to put seeds in the ground, and when
but little else can be done outside.^ Now we measure a
space twelve by seven feet (to give a projection of a
foot all round outside the frame), on a spot well shel-
tered from cold winds, and open to the sun. Begin by
setting boards on edge, secured by stakes, and fill in,
first with a layer of straw, leaves, or other similar ma-
terial, and then a layer of manure, beating it down with
the fork, but not treading it hard. Thus continue, until
you have used sufficient litter to make it, with the ma-
nure, about two feet high. Put on the frame, cover the
outside bank with boards laid flat, fill in with about
four inches of tan, put on the sashes, and while the heat
is getting up, we will get ready our seeds, and prepare
materials for potting.

We shall want some bits of charcoal for drainage, from
which we can sift the dust to mix in the soil for potting.
We last fall secured some excellent peat, laid up a little
loam, and saved a remnant of the old hot-bed (if we had
one). These, in equal parts, with a generous sprinkling
of the coal dust, make a good soil for present purposes.

In about a week after the bed is made, the heat will
be up, as we may find by thrusting a sharp stick into

HOT-BEDS. 313

it, and. we may now begin to sow in pots seeds of such
plants as are of slow growth, or will soonest bear turn-
ing out. A little practice will teach us when is the
best time to start with the various kinds. Plunge the
pots to the rim in the tan, and the bottom heat will
soon start the seeds into growth. We see that by hav-
ing the seeds in our power, we can control heat and
moisture at pleasure, and will scarcely make a failure,
unless we are careless enough to leave the glass on too
long during hot sunshine.

Here, too, we will start such summer bulbs and tubers
as require a season longer than ours, and of others, a
few, to secure a longer season of bloom. Soon we be-
gin to "prick out" the young plants, and "pot off" and
" shift," in order that they may have a freer growth than
they could attain if all grown in one pot, and as they
are thus sure to become more stocky, of better habit,
and larger size.

To watch carefully to prevent burning, to water as

may be necessary, to give air to prevent damping off,

and to close before nightfall, covering with mats, are

amongst our cares ; until now, the ground is warm enough

27

314 HOT-BEDS.

to begin to "turn out" the young plants, — which opera-
tion brings us to the out-door garden.

The duty of the hot-bed is done ; and we have now
only to store away frame and sashes in a dry place for
another spring.

We have said, plant the seeds in pots. This is the
best plan, as thus the young plants suffer less in trans-
planting ; but we may sow the seed directly in the hot-
bed. To do this, sift fine rich loam on the manure
(instead of the tan, as above directed), and in this, plant
the seeds in drills : the loam should be about eight inches
deep, and the seed should not be sown for a few days,
in order to let the fierce heat and steam pass off. A
far better and more durable hot-bed may be constructed
of masonry. Excavate trenches of proper depth, below
the reach of frost, and build up walls of solid rough
stone, to about eighteen inches above the ground be-
hind, and eight inches in front ; or, if preferred, the walls
above ground may be of brick laid in cement ; on these
walls place the sill and cross bars for the sliding sash;
fill in the manure and loam, or tan, and manage as
above. A hot-bed, constructed as thus directed, will last
for twenty years ; and even if not wanted for a hot-bed,

HOT-BEDS. 315

is very useful for growing violets and polyanthus for
early blooming, as directed in a former chapter, or for
protecting roses and half-hardy plants during the winter.
The accompanying figure may give an idea of its appear-
ance.

WATERING,

A hot-bed should be watered when the soil becomes
dry. The rule is, keep the soil moist but not wet. Never
water when the sun is on the plants, unless you water
only the soil, and do not allow a drop of water to
touch the foliage of the plants. Morning and evening
are the best times for watering ; but watering should
never be done on a cold, freezing day. The water used
should be of a moderate temperature ; cold, icy water
injures the plants,

316 HOT-BEDS.

AlRING.

Air should be freely given when the weather is warm
and sunny ; on cold, cloudy days the sashes should be
kept closed unless it is necessary to get rid of damp,
which may be effected by opening the frame about an
inch at the top. If the weather is very cold, the mats
should not be removed from the sashes.

The best way to ventilate is to draw the sash down
from the top. If, however, more air is required, prop
up the sides ; which, by securing a draught through,
will effectually carry off the surplus heat, — an inch will
be high enough.

As the season advances, and the days become warm
and sunny, the sashes may be entirely removed after the
sun becomes high ; replacing them at night and in stormy
weather. And finally, they may be removed altogether ;
which will much contribute to the sturdiness of the
plants.

PROTECTION.

If we do not start our hot-bed until the fir** of
April, we shall probably need no protection other than

HOT-BEDS. 317

that afforded by the sash, the internal heat being suf-
ficient to overcome any external cold.

If we start our hot-beds in winter, we shall need pro-
tection. The best is a thick straw mat; and, if very
cold, this may be covered by a board shutter. One mat
should be sufficiently large to cover two sashes.

These mats, if properly cared for, will last many
years.

We have not treated of the use of a hot-bed for
striking cuttings ; it is, however, most serviceable for
this purpose ; and with a small hot bed, a good supply
of verbenas, salvias, heliotropes, and such plants, may be
obtained.

27

CHAPTER XX.

THE GARDEN.

Time for Gardening1. — April Work. — Uncovering Bulbs. — Preparation of
Border. — Dividing Herbaceous Plants. — Grass Edgings. — Manuring.
— Weeding. — Watering. — Temperature of Water. — Staking. — Trim-
ming. — Soil. — Shade. — Situation.

and ice at last have disappeared,
and with the first opening of spring
there is usually an ardent desire devel-
oped for working in the flower garden ;
the spades, rakes, and hoes are called
into requisition, and the close, heavy
soil receives a vigorous upturning, and the garden is put
in order.

All too soon, however ; there are yet to be cold rains
and, perchance, chilling snows. The young shoots of
the herbaceous plants are not benefited by being deprived
of the protecting dead foliage of the last year ; and the
tender plants, covered during the winter, are not im-

(318)

THE GARDEN. • 819

proved by being stripped of the mats, or other covering,
in season to receive the chill of a snow storm.

The tenth of April is full early enough with us to
uncover trees and shrubs. The digging of the garden
beds cannot be advantageously undertaken before the
first of May.

The only April gardening, is uncovering the beds of
snowdrops, crocus, and other early bulbs. The time for
this varies from the first to the last of the month, ac-
cording to the exposure of the bed. The rule is, when
the bulbs shoot up through the manure and straw, and
begin to bloom, then uncover. We shall, doubtless, have
frosty nights ; but unless the cold should be very severe,
far greater than the average after the first of April,
the young shoots and flowers will not be injured.

Let us suppose the warm, sunny days of May have
come, the bloodroot and violets are in full bloom, and
Nature is rapidly assuming her spring vestments. Now
is the time to dig over our flower border ; we shall find
the soil, instead of being hard, sodden, and cold, as it
is in April, soft, porous, and crumbly, breaking readily
under the blows of the spade. If we have given the
border, in autumn, a good top-dressing of manure, as is

320 * THE GARDEN.

always a good plan, we have now no manuring to do.
First, cut off all dead stems of herbaceous plants, and
clear up the border ; some prefer to do this in autumn ;
this is only advisable where the flower garden is in the
immediate vicinity of the house, where the dead stalks
would present an unsightly appearance during the win-
ter. If we have no such good reason, it is far bet-
ter to leave the stalks and dead leaves on the plant,
as they serve as a great protection against the winter's
cold and sun.

The border being cleared, it should be dug over, a
foot deep, with a sharp spade, the ground levelled, and
the earth well pulverized ; care must be taken not to
injure any herbaceous plants ; if they are a little cov-
ered it will do no harm, as their tendency is to grow
out of the ground ; and if too high, they must be taken
up and replanted. Now is the time to divide them,
which may be done with the spade or with a sharp
knife.

If you have grass edgings, they should be neatly cut;
this may be done with the spade, or with one of the
tools made expressly for this purpose.

If you have not manured the border in the fall, now

THE GARDEN. 321

is the time to do it. A flower garden should have a
liberal dressing of manure once a year, and autumn is
better than spring.

But if we did not manure in autumn, let us do the
next best thing, and now give a heavy top-dressing;
cover the soil four inches deep with the best well-rotted
manure, the finer the better, and dig it in immediately,
and prepare our border as above directed.

Let a day or two elapse before we begin to plant,
for the soil is now light, and will settle very much.

We may then transplant, sow seeds, set bulbs, or turn
out bedding plants ; the latter, however, should not be
done before the 20th of May, as they gain but little,
and may be nipped by a late frost.

WEEDING.

Our spring work is over ; the flowers are blooming
gayly, and the hot June suns are shining. The flowers
grow rapidly, but the same sun is bringing up a growth
of weeds ; we must be on the alert, or our delicate an-
nuals will be smothered, and our garden soon lose its
neat and attractive appearance. The weeds must be
pulled up, and for this there is nothing so effective as

822 THE GARDEN.

the thumb and finger. Do not be afraid of dirtying
your hands ; this weeding, though often rather back-
breaking and tiresome, and, withal, dirty work, is very
good exercise ; and delicate fingers may be protected by
a pair of gloves. The best time is early morning of a
summer day, — say, from half past four to seven, on a
clear, bright morning ; one feels invigorated with the
fresh early air, charmed by the beauty of morning, and
really pities those who waste these, the best hours of
the day,^ in sleep. It is not well to weed at night, or
on a rainy or cloudy day, for there is no sun to kill the
weeds, which it is better to expose to the sun, that they
may be thoroughly killed ; pull them in -the morning, let
them lay during the day, and gather them up at night.

It is poor gardening to cut off a weed just below the
level of the ground with a scuffle or weeding hoe, for
the root remains alive, gains strength, and often sends
up many shoots to trouble us again. In large gardens
a hoe must be used, for hand weeding is too laborious ;
but if we have time, use the thumb and finger.

During the summer, the earth will need an occasional
stirring with the rake or hoe, especially if the summer
is dry, and may need the further attention of

THE GARDEN. 323

WATERING.

In this, there are many mistakes made ; often, the water
is poured on from a pail or from the nose of the water-
ing-pot. In both cases, the upper soil is wet, but the
greater portion of the water runs off, and fails to benefit
the garden. Now, our rules for watering are, never
water unless the soil absolutely needs it: some think
watering a daily duty, to be attended to whether the
need exists or not. If the soil is close or clayey, very
seldom will water be required ; if sandy or loose, more
often, but each locality will have its own rules.

Again, never dash water on the plants or ground ;
give it slowly and gently from the rose of a watering-
pot, and let it soak into the earth.

A good way, if a plant specially needs water, is to
put a flower-pot close to it, press the pot down into the
ground and fill it with water ; gently and slowly the water
will soak through the hole at the bottom of the pot,
and the roots of the plant receive the needed moisture.
In time of drought, a syringing is of much benefit to
shrubs and plants.

The water for plants should not be very cold ; rain

324 THE GARDEN.

water is the best, and it may always be obtained by
having a hogshead standing in some place out of sight,
under a spout connected with the roof.

There are always the little cares of staking plants,
trimming too luxuriant branches, removing dead stalks,
leaves, and flowers, watching lest the storms beat down
the tender shoots ; looking carefully for insects, and all
the little routine of duties which makes the pleasurable
care of the flower garden.

A well-kept garden is a constant source of pleasure ;
it supplies out-door exercise and employment, and will
always furnish a bouquet for the mantel or for the table.

In future chapters we will treat of what to plant ; and
when speaking of each plant, any peculiar mode of cul-
ture required, will be given.

The soil of a garden, for the growth of common spe-
cies of shrubs, perennials, and annuals, should be a rich
loam : if any plants reqiiire sand, it can be easily sup-
plied. Peat is but little used in general gardening; it
is required only for rhododendrons, azaleas, and in the
culture of some of our fine native plants.

A garden should not be shaded by large trees ; but

THE GARDEN.

325

few plants flourish under shade and drip, and the
strong roots of trees often usurp all the soil, and appro-
priate to themselves all the best of the garden.

A garden should be sunny; soil, rich black loam; and
sheltered from the wind.

CHAPTER XXI.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

Planting. — General Treatment. — Watering-. — I'nJsy^iua. — June Berry.—
Acacia. — Flowering Almond. — Catalpa. — Flowering1 Dogwood. — Kol-
reutcria. — Lilacs. — Syringa. — Laburnum. — Stuartia. — Pea Tree. —
Pseonias. — Magnolias. — Azalea. — Spice Bush, — Purple Berberry. —
Fringe Tree.— Smoke Tree. — Bladder Senna. — Corehorus. — Dwarf
Horse Chestnut. — Tartarian Honeysuckle. — Spireas. — Silver Bell. —
Sorrel Tree. — Deutzia. — Daphne Mezereon. — Japan Quince. — Snow-
ball.—Cranberry Tree. — Wcigela. — Virginia Silk. — Dutchman's Pipe.
— Virginia Creeper. — Honeysuckles. — Wistaria. — Climbing Roses. —
June Roses. — Moss Roses. — Perpetual Roses. — Culture. — Rhododen-
drons.— List of Hardy. — Mountain Laurel. — Andromeda. — Ledum, or
Labrador Tea.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

327

|O GARDEN is complete without a
judicious selection of small trees and
shrubs, and the many splendid acquisi-
tions of the last few years have made
them take a place among the most
desirable objects of floral decoration.
They occupy but little space, require
but little care, and give a large return
of flowers and foliage. Their culture
is very simple. They will thrive in
any good garden soil.

In planting, dig a hole about three feet in diameter,
unless the shrub is very small, when two feet will do ; fill
in with rich loam, and set the tree or shrub carefully in the
centre, treading the soil well around it, so it may be firmly
established. There is nothing gained by digging a small
hole, and crowding in the roots of the plant ; you may save
in labor, but you dearly pay for it, year after year, in a
sickly plant and starveling flowers. You must give the
roots generous treatment if you wish the plant to afford
a wealth of foliage and flower.

If the shrub droops from drought, the best way to
revive it is by syringing the foliage in the evening, and

328 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

by giving water at the root from a flower-pot, as de-
scribed in the last chapter ; or, if a pot of sufficient size
cannot be obtained, an old butter firkin, with an auger
hole in the bottom, will answer admirably.

Our autumn treatment is, only to give a top-dress-
ing of manure, to be dug in lightly with a fork (a spade
injures the roots) around the plant in early spring, when
the border is dug over.

The only pruning necessary is to cut out any too luxu-
riant or unsightly branches, which should be done with
a sharp pruning-knife.

If the plants are somewhat tender or weak, it may be
well to protect them against the winter's cold by tying
them up in straw, or, still better, cedar boughs, which may
be prettily trimmed off, so that all winter the plants
look like trimmed evergreens. The time for doing this is
about the middle of November, and the covering should be
removed about the first week in April.

Protection from the sun may also be given by setting
small evergreen trees in the ground around any plant re-
quiring such protection. The trunk of the .tree may be
sharpened and thrust into the ground ; it will freeze in,
and stand firmly all winter.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 329

This chapter can be but a list of the best trees and
shrubs, with brief descriptions of each, from which the
reader can select those which best suit his taste. All
are sufficiently hardy to stand our ordinary winters without
protection. We have not given a list of large trees,
gladly as we would have done so, because a chapter on
trees would treat more of the woodland and park than
of the garden ; but we have mentioned many small
trees, which are exceedingly ornamental, and may be
grown in a limited space.

The June Berry, or Shad Bush (Amelanchier botryapium),
is a pretty native tree, rarely attaining a greater height
than twelve feet, and in earliest spring loaded with \vhite
blossoms, succeeded later by clusters of purplish black
berries.

Both in leaf and flower it is very showy, and is one
of the few natives which seems to be appreciated. The
flowers come out before the leaves.

The Flowering Acacia (A. viscosa) is a small tree, cov-
ered with a profusion of pea-shaped pinkish white flow-
ers, on short, close racemes in June. It has the merit
of growing any where, and always flowering well. Its
foliage is neat, locust-like, and pretty.
28*

330 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

Another little gem, of the same family, so common
that its beauty is not appreciated, is the Rose Acacia
(A. hispida). Its clustered bunches of pink pea-shaped
flowers are familiar to all. If trained to a single stem,
it makes a fine plant ; its fault is, a tendency to throw
up suckers, which renders it a troublesome plant in a small
garden. It. is, however, a favorite of ours, and we will-
ingly bear its fault to enjoy its beauty. Both these
species will bear neglect and hard treatment ; indeed,
they will grow in spite of you.

A well-known and always popular shrub is the little
dwarf-flowering Almond (Amyydalus pumila flpV), found
every where, and yet, as is usually the case with our
best and most common blessings, not appreciated. A
little care would improve this plant wonderfully. It
flowers on the young wood, therefore the more shoots
we can get in the summer the more flower the next
spring. If, therefore, your plant is thrifty and well-estab-
lished, as soon as it is out of bloom cut it down to
the ground ; it may be hard to do it, but patience a while,
and before autumn you will have a fine growth of
young wood, which the next spring will give you profuse
bloom.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 331

A fine tree, and beautiful, both in foliage and flower,
blooming withal late in the season, is the Catalpa
(G. syringafolia). It is, however, too large for a small
garden, but yet is so beautiful, a space should be made
for it near the house. Flowers in July, in large ter-
minal bunches on the ends of the branches ; white,
marked with purple and yellow, and deliciously fragrant.

As a companion to the June Berry, we may have
our flowering Dogwood (Gornus florida], a beautiful native
tree, whose flowers are surrounded by very conspicuous
white floral leaves, which render the plant very attrac-
tive, and which are succeeded in autumn by red ber-
ries. The foliage also turns blood red with the autumn
frosts. It is a small tree, occupies but little space,
flowers when quite young, and should be more gener-
ally cultivated.

Kolreuteria Paniculata is a low tree, producing in August
bunches of bright yellow flowers. It is but little known,
however, or it would be more commonly grown. The
foliage is handsome, and the flowers come out at a
season when few trees are in bloom. It needs a rich
soil, and a sunny situation.

The Lilacs (Syringa), of which there are some twenty

832 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

varieties, and the Syringas (Philadelphus), are too well
known to need description; they are all pretty, and
flourish in any garden soil. The Persian Lilacs are most
suitable for a small garden. All these plants will bear
any exposure and thrive, where other shrubs would
dwindle and die.

The English and Scotch Laburnum (Cytisus) are
somewhat tender in the vicinity of Boston; they will,
however, flower splendidly in a somewhat sheltered
location; their golden chain of blossoms is very beau-
tiful.

A few years since, one of the natives of the mountains
of the Middle and Southern States was introduced to us by
Messrs. Parsons. We mean that lovely shrub, Stuartia
Pentagynia, which has safely stood our winters, and
delights us each August by a profusion of large, camellia-
like flowers, white, with purple centre.

Plant this shrub, however small the garden ; you
will never repent it, for it will repay you a thousand
fold.

For a pretty, hardy tree, eminent for delicate foliage
and pretty blossoms, give us the Siberian Pea Tree (Cara-
gana arborescens). It gives a profusion of pea-shaped

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 333

yellow flowers in May, and its foliage has a dark, healthy
green hue until late into the fall. It is small, occupying
hut little space. There are other species ; all are pretty,
hut many require to he grafted on a tall stock to show
to advantage, as they are low, trailing shruhs.

We must also have Tree Pseonies; there are many
varieties, hut, after the poppy-flowered and the double
hlush, they differ but little. They "bloom in May, and
are always ornamental; a little protection in winter is
advisable, though not necessary. Elizabeth and Hoi
Leopold are magnificent varieties.

Magnolias are always favorites, and could we have but
one species of flowering tree, this would be our choice.

M. conspicua is the Yulan Tree, perfectly hardy, bloom-
ing profusely about the last of April, producing large
white flowers. M. Soidangiana is about a week later ;
flowers, rosy purple.

There are many hybrids from these two ; all are
worthy a place in the garden.

M. tripetala, the Umbrella Tree, is too large for small
gardens, but where there is space, should be exten-
sively planted ; flowers large white, and very fragrant
in June.

334 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

M. glauca is our own little swamp Magnolia, but it does
poorly in cultivation; a damp soil, with deep loam, suits
it best ; it is an evergreen.

M. Tlwmpsonicma, is a fine hybrid between the last two
mentioned, and hardy.

M. macrophylla produces enormous leaves and flowers ;
it needs liberal culture, but is perfectly hardy ; the
flowers are white, very fragrant, produced in July.

M. purpurea or obovata is not hardy, yet if well pro-
tected will succeed.

Azalea Nudiflora and Viscosa are two fine native species,
the former with pink flowers in May, the latter with
white flowers in July. Both succeed well in any gar-
den soil.

The Spice Bush (Calycantlms), in its many species, is
very pretty, and a general favorite. The flowers have but
little beauty, being dull colored, yet their fragrance recom-
mends them to all. All the species have ornamental
foliage, and being low growers, are suitable for small
gardens. The whole plant is highly aromatic.

The foliage of the purple-leafed Berberry (Herberts
purpurea) is attractive and ornamental in the garden. It is
a neat-growing bush, with yellow flowers and red berries.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 335

A favorite with all is the Fringe Tree (Chionanthus
Virginiacus), producing long fringes of white flowers in
June ; it delights in a rich, loamy, moist soil.

The " purple fringe " or Smoke Tree (Ehus cotinus) is
too well known to need description ; it is very ornamental
from midsummer to autumn, and does well with but little
care.

Colutea Arborescens is the Bladder Senna, and is de-
serving a place in the garden, because it is always in
bloom, and is withal very ornamental with its yellow
flowers.

We cannot say the Altheas (Hibiscus Syriacus) are
favorites of ours ; their recommendation is, the late season
at which they bloom. The flowers are produced in August,
and are of all shades between red, purple, and white, and
double and single.

An old favorite is the Corchorus (Kerria japonica),
always esteemed for its bright orange globular flowers, and
conspicuous for its light, glossy, green wood. The shoots
are, however, liable to be winter-killed, and should in
autumn be laid down and covered with earth.

There is a dwarf-flowering Horse-chestnut (Pavia
Macrostacluja) which makes a pretty ornament for a

336 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS,

lawn ; the flowers are white, produced on long spikes.
The plant produces suckers so freely it sometimes becomes
troublesome.

All the Tartarian Honeysuckles are to be recommended
as garden shrubs, being equally ornamental^ whether in
flower or fruit.

Of the Spireas, whose "name. is legion," the best for
general cultivation are, —

S. Opulifolia. Flowers white in June.

S. Bella. Flowers pink in June.

S. Prunifolia. Flowers white in May.

S. Reevesii JVpV. Flowers white in May and June.

S. Callosa. Flowers red and pink all the season.

The Snow Bell, or Silver Bell Trees (Halesia diptera
and tetraptera), are always admired ; the former is some-
what tender in New England, however. They are small
trees, loaded in June with white, bell-shaped blossoms.

One of our most beautiful small trees is the Sorrel
Tree (Andromeda arborea). From July to September it is
loaded with bloom, and a more attractive object cannot be
found. It is suited to a very small garden.

Who has not admired the Deutzia (D. scahra], as hardy
us a Syringa, and far more beautiful, — stretching out to

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 337

us its branches, loaded with white blossoms ; yet, alas,
they have no perfume !

In the earliest days of spring, would we have a shrub
in flower in the garden, we must have planted the white
and purple Daphne Mezereon, and long before winter has
departed, these little shrubs will be loaded with bloom.

Before they have faded, we may gather a rich, golden
bouquet from Forsythia Viridissima, and wreathe among
them the flame-colored buds of the Japan Quince (Pyrus
Japonica).

There is also a white, a red, a double, and an orange
variety of this last-mentioned flower, which to us is one of
the early glories of spring.

Our list of shrubs would be incomplete did we omit the
Snowball ( Viburnum opulus), and the Cranberry Tree
(V. oxy coccus), both of which are ornamental in a high
degree. These plantc are botanically identical.

One of our modern introductions, the pretty Weigela
Rosea, is already common in the garden, and perhaps there
is no shrub a more universal favorite, certainly none that
will give a greater profusion of bloom.

Our garden is, however, in need of some hardy climbing
plants ; we therefore give a list of fine species : —
29

338 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

Periploca Graeca (Virginian silk), a rapid grower, with
curious brown flowers.

Trumpet Flower (Bignonia radicans), producing dull,
crimson flowers in August.

Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia siplio\ a fine climber,
with large leaves and curious flowers.

Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis Virginica) ; very useful
for covering walls and fences. A rapid grower, and very
beautiful in autumn.

The different species of Clematis are very ornamental.
C. flammula, Viticella, Virginica, and Azurea grandiflora,
are the best.

Honeysuckles are favorites with all, and our selec-
tion from the many varieties would be Scarlet and Yel-
low Trumpet (Lonicera Periclymenum and aurea), Dutch
Monthly (Belgica), Japan Twining (Japonica).

And, lastly, the Chinese and our native Wistaria (W.
sinensis and frutescens), which are always favorites from
their clusters of purple flowers.

We must have some climbing roses. Let us, then,
choose the pink and red Bousault for early bloom, and
from the prairies, Queen of the Prairie, Baltimore Belle,
Superba, Milledgeville, and Perpetual Pink. If we can

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

339

nave but one climbing rose, let it be the Baltimore Belle.
The Greville Rose is a fine, hardy species.
Let us choose —

Midame Plantier. White.
Victor Hugo. Lilac.
George IV. Crimson.
Brennus. Crimson.
Provence. Rose.

For Hardy June Roses.

Centifolia Cristata. Blush.
Madame Hardy. White.
Globe White. White.
Four Seasons. Blush.
Unique. White.

For Moss Roses.

Common Blush. Rose.
Cristata. Rose.
Glory of Moss. Rose.
Luxembourg. Crimson.

For Hybrid

Auguste Mie. Rosy pink.

Baronne Prevost. Rose fine.

Geant des Batailles. Crimson.

Edtvard Jesse. Lilac Rose.

L' Enfant du Mont Carmel. Pur-
plish red.

General Jacqueminot. Splendid
crimson.

Lion des Combats. Scarlet.

Jules Margottin. Carmine.

Cnmpte de BroUnski. Crimson.

Duchess of Sutherland. Rose.

Caroline de Sansal. Flesh color.

Baronne Hrtlez. Light crimson.

Princess Adelaide. Red.
White Bath. White.
Multiflora. Rose.
Etna. Crimson.

Perpetual.

William Jesse. Crimson.
Sydonie. Light pink.
Rivers. Rosy crimson.
Portland Blanche. White.
Marquise Bocella. Rosy blush.
Madame Laffay. Rosy crimson.
Mrs. Rivers. Flesh color.
General Cavaignac. Light rosy

crimson.

Pius IX. Purplish red.
Mrs. Elliott. Rosy purple.
La Heine. Rose.
Lady Alice Peel. Rosy carmine.

340 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

The treatment of roses in the garden is very simple.
They need a deep, rich, well-manured soil, rather moist,
but never wet.

In early spring they should be cut down to a few eyes ;
and, if autumn bloom is desired, pruned again in July.
When the frosty nights come, and just before the ground
freezes, lay down the shoots, and cover them several inches
deep ; or, in. the case of June roses, lay them down and
cover them with evergreen boughs. Take them up about
the middle of April.

Our lists of Bourbon and China Roses have been given
In a previous chapter, and we have only to add to these a
plant of the favorite Yellow Harrison and the Persian Yel-
low, and a few plants of the little early-blooming Scotch
roses, to have our rosery well stocked.

Before closing this chapter, we wish to say a few
words about a much neglected class of plants, the so-
called American plants ; i. e., Rhododendrons, Kalmias,
and Leduin.

The proper soil is peat, leaf mould, and sand, in propor-
tions of one half part of the latter to two of the former.

The plants should be planted in a bed specially prepared,
where they can be sheltered from the winter's sun.

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 341

We do not propose to write a treatise on their culture,
but merely saying there can be nothing more ornamental
than a collection of these plants, to give the following list
of varieties which have been proved hardy in the vicinity
of Boston : —

Rhododendron Atrosanguineum. Intense blood red, fine foliage ; one
of the hardiest and best.

R. Archimedes. Bright rose, light centre.

jR. Barclay anum. A fine, light blooming kind; good foliage; large
trusses, of a deep rose color.

R. Blandyanum. Deep crimson; fine.

.R. Chancellor. Finely spotted purplish lilac ; good.

R. Brayanum. Rosy scarlet, lighter centre; fine foliage; a very
-fine variety.

R. Correggio. Dark crimson ; fine.

R. Delicatissimum. White, delicately edged with pink.

jR. Due de Brabant. Yellowish white, spotted with red, semi-double.

R. Everestianum. Rosy lilac, spotted and fringed; a fine kind.

R. Leopardii. Rosy lilac, intensely spotted.

R. Giganteum. Bright rose, large truss ; foliage good.

R. Nero. Fine dark rosy purple, spotted; fine truss.

R. Standard of Flanders.

R. Roseum Elegans. Fine rose.

R. Roseum Pictum. Rose, with yellow eye.

R. Granditforum, >,.

> Late blooming ; fine rose-colored ; good trusses.
R. Superbum, >

There are many hardy Rhododendrons, seedlings of
E. Catawliense, which are, perhaps, better adapted for
29*

342 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS.

general planting than those above mentioned. We
describe a few kinds : —

-R. Catawbiense Album. Fine white.

R. Catawbiense Album Elegans. White, with green spots ; the best
of the hardy light varieties.

R. Grandifiorum. Blush, changing to white.

R. Acubcefoliam. Light lilac.

R. Azureum. Blush lilac, distinct and fine.

R. Bicolor. Rose ; distinct white spot on upper petals.

R. Candidis'simum. Pure white.

R. Ccelestinum. Fine blush, yellow eye.

R. Coerulescens. Lilac pink.

jR. Delicatissimum. Delicate blush, changing to white.

R. Gloriosum. Large blush.

R. Perspicuum. Clear blush.

JR. Purpureum Elegans and Grandifiorum. Fine trusses ; clear, fine
purple.

R. Grandiflorum (Waterers). Rose ; fine truss.

R. Roseum Splendens. Fine rose.

R. Blandum. Pale blush, fine foliage.

R. Guttatum. Clear white, distinctly spotted.

R. Ryacinthiflorum. Very double and distinct.

R. Macranthum. Blush white, tinged with pink.

R. Multimaculum. White, finely spotted with red.

R. Nivaticum. Pure white, yellow eye.

R. Pictum. White ; intense spot on upper petals.

All the above are hardy enough to withstand a Canadian
winter. Rhododendron Ponticum, and its varieties, are not
hardy with us. Kalmia Latifolia, the fine mountain laurel,

SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 343

is worthy a place in every garden. There are also varieties
of the common Kalmia Angustifolia, or Lambkill, which
are very pretty. K. Angustifolia carnea, pumila, and rubra,
our swamp Kalmia, K. glauca and its varieties, stricta, and
superba, are very ornamental. Kalmia Myrtifolia is a fine-
leaved variety. All these are perfectly hardy.

The Andromedas are a very pretty tribe of plants ; of
these, the following are hardy : A. Catesbsei, Floribunda,
Mariana, Polifolia, and its varieties.

The Ledum is a very pretty evergreen, and all its species
are hardy. L. angustifolium, buxifolium, procumbens, in-
termedium, latifolium,palustre, and thymifolium.

These are all low-growing evergreens, and very pretty
miniature plants. In June they are covered with small
white blossoms.

We have been thus diffuse on this subject, because it is
one on which there is general ignorance ; and large sums
are annually spent in importing plants which never survive
the first winter. All we have mentioned are perfectly
hardy, and well adapted to our New England climate.

CHAPTER XXII.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

General Treatment. — Transplanting. — Propagation.— Dielytra. — Lily of
the Valley. —T Adam' s Needle. — Larkspur. — Globe Flower. — Phlox. —
List of Choice Varieties. — Canterbury Bell. — Hepatica. — Pink.— Frax-
inella. — Cowslip. — Foxglove. — Day Lily. — Iris. — Everlasting Pea. —
Lupin. — Ragged Robin. — Spirea. — Veronica. — Bloodroot. — List of
fine Species.

N THIS connection, >ve treat of all
hardy biennials and perennials,
meaning plants which spring up for
two or more years, blooming during
the summer from yearly stems, which
die down each autumn, the root, in
the case of biennials, dying after
blooming, or, as with most peren-
nials, living many years, and springing up every season.
These plants are to be especially relied upon for the
flower garden, because they require but little care ; in fact,
they care for themselves. Give them the common garden

(344)

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 345

soil, dig round them, to loosen the earth3 each spring, and
they will bloom.

Yet a little care is well repaid by increased luxuriance of
foliage and beauty of flower. • In spring each clump should
be examined, to see it is not too high out of the earth ;
there is a tendency with most of these plants to grow out
of the ground. When this is found to be the case, take up
the plant and re-set it.

Transplanting should always be done in the spring ; not
but what these plants will live if removed in the autumn,
but they will succeed so much better by spring planting,
that that season is always to be chosen if possible.

During the summer, if very large and fine bloom is de-
sired, prune out all the weak stems.

In the autumn cover the crowns of the plants with coarse
manure or litter ; if the plant is an evergreen, protect it
with pine boughs from the winter's sun.

In spring, dig a few spades full of manure around each
plant.

These plants are propagated by division of the root,
which should be performed in early spring, just as the
plants start into growth, or in the latter part of summer,
when they have done flowering ; this latter treatment is

346 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

especially adapted for the Phlox. Every eye, with a bit of
root, will make a plant. They also produce seed freely,
and seedlings usually bloom the second year.

We give a list of species, with short descriptions, men-
tioning the plants in the order in which they are adapted to
general culture, considering them as flowering plants.

DIELYTRA SPECTABILIS. This beautiful plant is one of
the most elegant in cultivation, whether we consider its
foliage or flowers. It grows freely, flowers well, and is
subject to no insects or disease ; and if, after the flowers
have faded in the spring, the stalks are cut down, it will
throw up a second set and bloom again. Perennial. Flow-
ers, rose and white in May.

LILY OF THE VALLEY (Convallaria Majalis). This lovely
flower grows alike for the rich and , poor. It does well in
any rich, loamy soil, and thrives in shade or sun. It pro-
duces its fragrant white flowers in May, which are suc-
ceeded by red berries in September. Perennial.

ADAM'S NEEDLE (Yucca Filamentosa). An evergreen
plant, with strong roots and sharp leaves, of a very tropical
aspect. In June it throws up a tall spike of white flowers.
During the winter, cover the plants with pine boughs. They
need a rich soil, and it is a good plan to dig, every fall,

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 347

well-rotted manure into the bed. Perennial. One of the
conspicuous features near our house is a large circular bed
of these plants.

DELPHINIUM HENDERSONII and FORMOSUM. Two beau-
tiful varieties of Larkspur. Flowers deep blue, with white
centre. Produced in profusion from July to November.
Perennial.

TROLLIUS EUROPJETJS (Globe Flower). A lovely little
plant. A mass of light yellow globe flowers in May and
June. This is a favorite flower with us. Perennial. T.
Asiaticus has orange flowers.

PHLOX. This is a large family, containing many species
and fine varieties. We give a list of desirable varieties of
each of the early summer and autumn kinds, only premising
that we mention but a few, while there are hundreds worthy
of cultivation.

Early Spring Flowering.

Phlox Subulata (Moss Pink.) Pink, white, purple, and eyed varieties.
P. Divaricata. Light and dark purple.
P. Stonolifera. Deep red.
P.Nivalis. White.

Summer Flowering.

P. Maculata. lied. P. Countess of Home. White,

P. Suavolens. White, crimson eye.

348 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

P. Louis Van Houtte. Striped. P. Mad. Carl Wagner. Whitish

P. Bcppo. Purple or crimson. rose, rosy eye.

P. Speculum. White, red eye. P. Henri Lierval. Purplish crira-

P. Roi de Leopold. White, son.

striped with purple. P. Rival. White.

Late Flowering.

P. Decora. White, red eye. P. Madame Basseville. Rosy
P. Souvenir de la Mer. White, white, red eye.

violet centre P. Madame Le Cerf. Pure white.

P. Le Croix de St. Louis. Rose P. Ocidata. Lilac, white centre.

and white. P. Atropurpurea. Dark crimson.

P. Osiris. White, red eye. P. Camarina. White, red eye.

P. Hersine. Purple and white. P. Mr. Regel. Violet, purple, and
P. Dianthiflora. Rose and white. crimson.

All these species of Phlox are perennials.

Campanula Medium (Canterbury Bells). An old-fashioned, but very
pretty flower. It is, however, a biennial ; so we must sow seed every
year to keep up a stock. There are white, purple, single and double
varieties. Blooms in June.

C. Persicafolia. Our common garden species ; flower, blue, white ;
single and double ; perennial, blooming in June and July. There are
many other species, all fine.

Hepatica Triloba. This little spring flower we have previously de-
scribed. It is the first flower to open after the snowdrop and crocus,
usually expanding about the fifth of April. The leaves are evergreen,
the flowers double and single, white, blue, rose, and red. Perennial.

Garden Pink (Dianthus Ilortensis). A pretty and common flower,
worthy of a place in every flower garden. Perennial. June.

Fraxinetta (Dictxmnus Fraxinellct). The red and white fraxinella

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 349

are old-fashioned favorites. They increase slowly, and are never very
plenty. The plants possess a strong aromatic fragrance. Perennials.
May, June.

Dodocatheon Medea (American Cowslip). Flowers in large umbels
of white and purple blossoms, with reflexed petals. Very ornamental.
May. Perennial.

Foxglove (Digitalis). There are many varieties, with purple, white,
yellow, rusty, and variegated flowers. The plant is a biennial, and
therefore seeds should be sown each year. July and August.

Day Lily (Hemerocallis and Funkia). Pretty plants, with lily-
shaped flowers. Colors, yellow, orange, blue, white, and variegated,
blooming from June to August. Perennials.

Iris and Fleur de Lis. A large genus of ornamental plants, all per-
ennials and hardy.

/. Putnila. Purple, in May.

/. Cristata. Light blue, in May.

/. Florenteiut. White, in June.

/. Germanica. Blue, in June.

There are many splendid varieties of this flower, all of which are
very ornamental.

Everlasting Pea (Lathyrw Latifolius). This plant possesses all the
beauty of the sweet pea, wanting only its fragance. It comes up year
after year, flowering abundantly. Perennial. Flowers, white, pink,
rose, and purple ; worthy a place in every garden.

Lupimis Polyphyllus. A fine, hardy species, producing rich, purple
flowers. Biennial. June.

Lychnis Floscoculi is the well known Ragged Robin, the double
variety of which is deservedly a favorite. Perennial. June.

Spirea Aruncus (Goat's-beard). A very showy species ; flowers white,
in June.

S. Filipendula fi pV. Bears fine clusters of double white flowers,
June to September.

S. Japonica is a delicate species, also with white flowers.

30

350 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

S. Palmata. A variety of tall habit, bearing immense corymbs of
red flowers. June. All perennials.

Veronica Virginica is our common tall-growing species, producing
white flowers in August.

V. Speciosa and Spicata produce fine blue flowers, and are of dwarf
habit. Perennials. June.

Sanguinaria Canadensis, our wild Bloodroot ; succeeds admirably in
cultivation, and increases in size and vigor. It is one of our earliest
spring flowers, and should be more generally cultivated. Flowers, pure
white, with yellow stamens, in early May.

The following plants are all well worthy of cultivation,
but we have no space to describe them. Unless otherwise
noted, all are hardy perennials.

Saxifraga Crassifolia. Flowers pink, in May.

Monarda Didyma. Flowers scarlet, in July.

Chinese Pceonies. Red, white, and blush. May to July.

Papaver Orientalis. Flowers scarlet, in June.

Perstemon Coeruleum. Flowers blue. August.

AconUum Napellus (Monkshood). Flowers blue. July.

Alyssum Saxitile. Flowers yellow. May.

Columbines, in variety. Biennials. June.

Lunaria Biennis (Honesty). Biennial ; white or pink, in May.

Sweet William, in variety. Biennials. June.

Verbascum Pyramidalis. Biennial ; yellow. August.

Polemonium Coeruleum. Flowers blue or white. June.

Rudbeckia Fulgida. Flowers yellow. July.

Iberis Tenoriana. Flowers white. May.

Potentilla Astrosanguinea. Flowers blood-red all summer.

Dracocephalum Virginiacum. Flowers purple. July.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 351

Convolvulus Panduratus. A fine, hardy climber, with profusion of
large white flowers, with purple tube.

Coronilla Varia. Flowers pink, in May and June.

Achilka Ptarmica. Flowers white, all summer.

Cassia Marylandica. Flowers yellow, in August.

Catananche Cceruka. Flowers blue, in July.

Adonis Vernalis. Flowers yellow, in May.

Geum Coccinium. Flowers scarlet, in July.

Hesperis Matronalis. Flowers white and purple, in June.

Pulmonaria Virginica. Flowers blue, in May.

Tradescantia Virginica. Flowers white and blue, all summer.

This list might be indefinitely increased, but enough
have already been given to enable the ignorant to select a
choice collection.

CHAPTER XXIII.

HARDY ANNUALS.

Treatment. — Sowing. — Saving Seed. — Watering. — Mignonette. — Sweet
Pea. — Asters. — Balsam.— Salpiglossis. — Abronia. — Nigella. — Agera-
tum. — Coreopsis. — Sweet Allyssum. — Candytuft. — Clarkia. — Convol-
vulus. — Eschscoltzia. — Lupins. — Portulacca. — Indian Shot. — Lark-
spur. — Amaranth. — Gillyflower. — Schizanthus. — Zinnia. — List of
Choice Species. — List of Climbing Annuals. — Cypress Vine.

E CANNOT say these plants are
w favorites. With the number
of fine bedding plants now
easily obtainable, they are
by no means so much cul-
tivated as formerly. Yet
there are some which are
indispensable, many which are
endeared by old associations, and many,
without which our summer garden will not be complete.
What can excel the beauty of the annual Phlox, the bril-
liant contrasts of the annual Morning Glory, the dazzling

C352)

HARDY ANNUALS. 353

colors of the Portulacca, the fine-cut and curiously-marked
leaves of the Schizanthus, the sweet perfume of the
Mignonette and Sweet Pea, or the delicate pencillings of
the Salpiglossis !

The treatment of annuals is very simple ; they may be
divided into two classes.

Hardy annuals, which may be sown in autumn and come
up, surviving the winter and blooming early the next sum-
mer ; or which may be sown in spring, in the open border,
for summer bloom.

Half-hardy annuals, which are sown after the ground be-
comes warm in the spring, blossoming the same summer.
This latter class may again be subdivided, according to the
treatment required, into garden annuals and hot- bed an-
nuals ; the former rapidly coming to perfection when sown
in the garden, about the first of May ; the latter requiring
a longer season, and thus needing to be started and brought
forward in a hot-bed, and then transplanted to the
garden.

Strictly speaking, annuals are plants which live but one
year, that is, spring up, make their growth, bloom, and
perfect seed in one season ; but many plants treated as an-
nuals may be preserved many years in a frame or green-
30*

354 HARDY ANNUALS.

house, while at the same time in the garden they bloom
and seed in a single summer, as for instance the Petunia
and Nasturtium.

Others, again, form tubers, which, if properly cared for
during the winter, and planted out in the spring, grow
again with vigor and flower profusely, and so on indefinitely,
as the Four O' Clock (Mirabilis), the Commelina, the Scar-
let Bean, and Salvia Patens.

There are, however, some annuals which must be sown
where they are to grow, and which will not bear transplant-
ing. Of these, our most familiar examples are Larkspurs,
Poppies, Candytuft, Lupins, Mignonette, Convolvulus,
Sweet Peas.

If, however, it is desirable to force these plants, they
may be started in pots in hot-beds, and then turned out
into the open ground, without breaking the ball of earth
enclosing the plants.

In the following list, we cannot pretend to give more than
a few of the best species. Our descriptions are necessarily
brief, but we give, in as few words as possible, the name,
color, season of blooming, and culture. Where we have
been more diffuse, it has been because the beauty of the
plant demands special notice.

HARDY ANNUALS. 355

But first, a word as to sowing ; the general fault is plant-
ing too deep.

No rule of general application can be given, for the
proper depth must be regulated by the size of the seed.
Lupins, Sweet Peas, and such large seeds, may be covered
one inch, while very small seed, such as Portulacca, should
be sown on the surface, and a very light covering of fine
earth sifted over it.

The border for annuals must be finely dug, and the soil
well pulverized and raked smooth ; if the surface is coarse
and lumpy, most of your small seeds will fail.

Hardy annuals may be sown in August, for early bloom
the next season ; or about the middle of April, for bloom in
the latter part of the summer.

Half-hardy annuals may be sown in the open ground
about the first of May.

The tender species should be started in the hot-bed,
sown either in pots or in the bed, about the first of April,
and transplanted to the open border about the tenth of
May, or when all danger of frost is past.

If the plants come up very thick, thin out the weakest ;
you will thus give more room for the others, and secure a
better and larger bloom.

856 HARDY ANNUALS.

A word as to saving seed. It is usually ripe when the
seed capsule begins to turn yellow ; it should then be gath-
ered, exposed in an airy, sunny place for a few days, to
allow it to become perfectly dry, and then put up in care-
fully labelled papers. In purchasing seed, buy nothing in
" fine mixed varieties," unless you wish the refuse ; for one
good you get a dozen poor kinds ; learn what you want,
and buy only that. Again, select the best varieties, and
buy only those ; a poor variety occupies as much room as a
good one.

In autumn, when the frost has killed down the plants,
pull up the old stalks, and clear up the border, for the
season's work is done, and the next spring new seeds will
give you new plants.

Watering, which is sometimes needed by delicate grow-
ing species, should be given from a fine rosed watering-pot,
either early in the morning or late in the evening.

MIGNOXETTE (Reseda Odorata). Sow in the autumn,
very late, when it will vegetate the next spring, or early in
April. Flowers, greenish white all summer, of an exquisite
fragrance. Where this plant has once grown well, it will
come up year after year, without further care, from self-
sown seed.

HARDY ANNUALS. 357

SWEET PEA (Lathyrus Odoratus)J Sow as early as possi-
ble in the spring, in rich soil ; the flowers are pink, purple,
white, and variegated. Grows from two to five feet high,
blooming from July until killed by the frost.

They may be trained on strings or a trellis, against a wall
or fence, or on neat pea sticks ; we prefer the latter method.

ASTERS, Chinese, German, or French (Callistephus
Chinensis var.) A long treatise might be written on
the different varieties of this beautiful flower. All the
kinds should be sown in a hot-bed about the middle of
April, and transplanted to the garden about the middle of
May. A pretty effect is produced by .planting in a bed,
setting the plants one foot apart each way. Colors, red,
white, blue, pink, and all possible shades. The flowers are
also " quilled," or " paeony flowers." A rich, deep, rather
moist soil suits them well. The best varieties are Traffaut's
new Paeony Flowered, Chinensis, Dwarf Chrysanthemum
Flowered, German, Pyramidal, Hedgehog, and Ranunculus
Flowered.

BALSAM (Impatiens Noli-tangere). Flowers white, flesh
color, pink, red and purple, spotted and striped ; blooming
from June to October. Treatment the same as for Asters.

SALPIGLOSSIS ATROPURPUREA is properly a green-house

358 HARDY ANNUALS.

plant, but does well started in a hot-bed in April, and
transplanted into a highly manured, sandy loam. Flowers
of the different varieties, purple, white, straw color, and
beautifully marked., It may be kept in the green-house for
years, if not allowed to seed. Blooms from June to Sep-
tember.

ABRONIA UMBELLATA, a beautiful little trailer, with
heads of fragrant rose-colored flowers. Grows well in light,
rich soil. Sow in frame in April, or in open border in May.

NIGELLA HISPANIC A and DAMASCENA (Love in a Mist).
Very free flowering plants, with curious seed vessels.
Colors, white, blue, purple, yellow. June to October.
Sow in the garden in May.

AGEEATTJM MEXICANUM. A class of pretty summer
flowers, growing freely in any. soil. Blue and white. June
to September. This is often used as a bedding plant, and
propagates freely by cuttings. Sow in open border in May,
or in frame in April.

COREOPSIS, in its many varieties, with yellow, crimson,
and brown flowers, all summer. Sow in May, in open bor-
der. These plants will come up for years where they have
once been grown.

ALLYSSUM MAEITIMUM (Sweet Allyssum). Flowers

HARDY ANNUALS. 359

white and fragrant, resembling miniature Candytuft. Sow
in open border in April. It will come up, year after year,
from self-sown seed.

IBERIS ODORATA and UMBELLATA (Candytuft, and vari-
eties). Fine, hardy, free-blooming annuals, with white,
red, and purple flowers, from June to August. Sow in
open border in May.

CLARKIA ELEGANS and varieties. Hardy annuals, bloom-
ing from June to August. Sow in open border in May.
Flowers white, rose, and purple.

CONVOLVULUS MINOR. The pretty dwarf Morning
Glory, with blue, white-eyed flowers, from June to Septem-
ber. Sow where it is to bloom in May.

ESCHOLTZIA (CHRYSEIS) CALIFORNICA. Very showy
plants, with yellow, orange, and white flowers. Sow in
May where they are to bloom.

LUPINS, varieties. Flowers blue, white, yellow, and
pink. Sow where they are to bloom in May. They will
flourish in poor soil. Bloom from June to September.

PORTULACCA. Flowers white, red, scarlet, crimson, yel-
low, and variegated. We know of no better plant than this
for a hot exposure. It blooms from June until killed by the
frost. Sows itself, and, comes up year after year.

360 HARDY ANNUALS.

CANNA INDICA and varieties (Indian Shot). A tall plant,
of tropical aspect, with light green leaves and yellow
flowers. There are many fine varieties, which are very
ornamental. Sow in pots, in a frame, and transplant. The
seeds should be soaked in boiling water before planting,
otherwise they are a long time vegetating. Soil, rich deep
loam. Blooms from July to October.

The roots may be kept in the cellar, and re-planted in
the spring, when they will make finer plants, and bloom
earlier.

The following are fine varieties : —

C. Warscewiczii. Brilliant red. C. NoUlis. Red.

C. Anneii. Crimson. C. Angitstifoha. Light red.

C. Gigantea. Scarlet yellow. C. Aurea Vittata. Golden.

C. Limbata. Scarlet and yellow. C. Sellowii. Scarlet.

C. Bicolor, Red and yellow.

DELPHINEUM AJACIS (Rocket Larkspur). A popular
garden flower. Sow where it is to stand, in August, for the
next year's bloom, or in April. Colors, red, blue, white,
and purple. Blooms from June to September.

GOMPHRENA GLOBOSA (Globe Amaranth). A fine plant,
needing to be brought forward in the hot-bed. Colors,
purplish red, white, and orange. Blooms all summer. The
flowers dried form pretty winter bouquets.

HARDY ANNUALS. 361

MATHIOLA (Ten- Week Stock). The annual varieties of
the Gillyflower are very pretty summer blooming plants.
They should be sown in the hot-bed in April, and trans-
planted with care, for they bear it poorly, owing to their
long, fibreless roots. Flowers white, purple, red, and yel-
low all summer.

SCHIZANTHUS PiNNATUs. Very ornamental little plants,
with red, white, purple, yellow, and variegated flowers.
They should be started in pots, in the frame, and carefully
transplanted. Bloom from July to October.

ZINNIA ELEGANS FL' PL'. The single Zinnia was an old
favorite in the garden, but is now completely eclipsed by
the fine double varieties. The seeds should be started in a
frame in April, and transplanted in May, They grow to a
large size, and produce a profusion of red, yellow, and pur-
ple flowers, as large as a rose, all summer. l"hey are
among the most ornamental plants of the garden.

The following list includes many fine species, all of which
are worthy a place in a large garden.

Acroclineum Roseum. Open border. Bartonia Aurea. Frame.

Didiscus Cceruleus. Frame. Cacalia Coccinea. Open border.

Annual Chrysanthemum. Open Amaranthus Tricolor. Open border,

border. Hibiscus Africanus. Open border

31

362 HARDY ANNUALS.

Erysimum Peroffskianum. Open Clintonia Elegans and Pulchclla.

border. Open border.

Browallia Elata. Frame or border. Perilla Nankinensis. Frame or

Gilia, in variety. Frame or border. border.

Anagallis, in variety. Open border. Helichrysum, in variety. Frame

Lavatera. Open border. or border.

Calendula Officinalis. Open border. Collinsia, in variety. Open border.

Brachycome Ibiridifolia. Frame or Phlox Drummondii. Frame.

border. Rhodanthe Manglesii. Frame or

CallirohcePedata. Frame, in pot. border.

Antirrhinum, in variety. Frame in Scabiosa Atropurpurea. Open bor-

pot. der.

Four O' Clocks. Open border. Silene or Catclifly. Open border.

Martynia Fragrans. Frame. Tournefortia Ih-liotropoides.

Centaurea, in variety. Frame. Frame or border.

Godetia, in variety. Open border. Linum Grandiflorwn. Frame in

Nolana Atriplicifolia. Open bor- pot.

der. Petunia, in 'variety. Frame.

The following are climbing annuals, adapted for covering
walls or trellises. They should all, except the Ipomeas, be
started in pots, in the frame, and turned out into the border
about the first of May.

IPOMEA QUAMOCLIT is the pretty, graceful cypress vine.
The seed vegetates with difficulty. Delay planting until
about the first of June, then choose a very hot noon. Plant
the seed where it is to stand, in a large circle, so a pole
may be set in the centre, and strings led to the top from the
plant, for this is the prettiest way of growing it. Then

HARDY ANNUALS.

363

take a large water-pot full of boiling water and water the
seed. Under this treatment it will often come up in
twenty-four hours.

Tropeeolum (Nasturtium). Open border.

Thunberyia. Frame in pot.

Maurandia. Frame in pot.

Loasa Lateritia. Frame in pot.

Ipomea. Open border.

Convolvulus Major (Morning Glory.) Open border.

Cobea Scandcns. Frame in pot.

Cardiospermum (Balloon Vine). Open border.

Adlumia Cirrhosa (Mountain Fringe, or Traveller's Joy). Open border.

CHAPTER XXIV.

BEDDING PLANTS.

Propagation. — Gazauia. — Verbena. — Lantana. — Heliotrope. — Calceola-
rias. — Geraniums. — Petunias. — Cuphca. — Feverfew. — Nierembergia. —
Salvia. — Tritoma.

S COMMONLY used, this general
term is given to plants which are
winter inhabitants of the green-house,
but which, if planted in the garden,
bloom profusely all summer. They
are generally green-house peren-
nials, but among them are included many
plants which bloom late in the summer,
from seed sown the same spring, and of
which fine varieties are propagated by cut-
tings. As examples, we may mention petunias and ver-
benas.

The treatment of these plants is very simple ; about the
middle of May turn them out into the flower garden ; they

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BEDDING PLANTS. 365

will grow finely, and give profuse bloom. In August take
off cuttings, and root them in the green-house, or in a
frame for your winter's stock, unless you wish to preserve
the old plants ; if so, leave them in the garden until just
before the frost comes ; then pot them, and winter in the
green-house, parlor, or conservatoiy. It is, however, always
a good plan to have a stock of summer cuttings. Some
species, as Scarlet Geraniums, and Erythrinas, are win-
tered in a dry state in a cellar, secure from frost, and
again set out in the spring. *

We describe a few of the principal plants coming under
this head : —

GAZANIA SPLENDENS. During the past season this
plant has attracted considerable attention as a new and
desirable bedding plant. Its recommendations are, its
small size, the brilliancy and number of its flowers, and
the rich contrasts of color; it is also a plant of easy
growth, and small plants soon become vigorous specimens.

The colors are rich orange yellow, a circle of black,
banded and mottled with white and brown or choco-
late at the base of the petals, the centre a reddish
orange ; foliage dark green. In form, the flower some-
•vhat resembles a small sunflower, or chrysanthemum.
31*

366 BEDDING PLANTS.

The present variety somewhat resembles the old G.
uniflora, differing from it in its dwarf habit and com-
pact growth ; the branches are sometimes erect, but bend
down with the weight of the flowers. The contrast of
the orange yellow, black, white, and chocolate in the flower,
produces a most brilliant effect.

The culture of this plant is very simple ; it will do
well in almost any soil, and produces flowers in profu-
sion, from early spring until late in the autumn. It is
not dried up by the heat of summer, or affected by
atmospheric changes, but flowers throughout the season,
closing its splendid flowers during the night, and opening
them during the day. It is well adapted for pot cul-
ture ; its growth is vigorous as well as neat and clean,
and it is not subject to the attacks of red spider and other
troublesome insects.

There are about forty species of the Gazania, of which
most are unknown to our gardens ; all are natives of
the Cape of Good Hope.

As a bedding plant, this variety is invaluable; plan*
in early spring, and take up just before the first frost.

VERBENA. We have treated so fully of this plant on
previous pages that further mention is unnecessary. As

BEDDING PLANTS. 367

a bedding plant it is unsurpassed. If planted in a com-
post of peat and leaf mould it makes rampant growth,
and gives flowers of great size and brilliancy.

LANTANA. This is a showy, shrubby plant, of easy
culture in any garden soil ; the flowers are in small,
rounded, or flat trusses, resembling in form a verbena. It
may be wintered in a light cellar. The following are fine
kinds : —

L'Abbe Leautier. Yellow, shading Victoire. Pure white, yellow

to crimson. eye.

Lutea Rosea. Fine yellow, shading Speciosa. Orange scarlet.

to white. Lilacina. Lilac rose.

Delicatissima. Fine rosy purple. Alba Grandiflora. Fine white.

HELIOTROPE. In addition to varieties mentioned in a
former chapter, we can recommend, —

Miss Nightingale. Deep violet. Jean Mesmer. Very light blush.

Reine des Heliotropes. Violet and Beauty of the Boudoir. Dark.

lilac. Flore. Violet, light centre.
La Petite Negress. Very dark, dwarf.

CALCEOLARIAS. The shrubby varieties are very orna-
mental during the whole season. The following are good : —

Queen of Oude. Orange crimson. Prince of Orange. Orange and
Sulphuria, Yellow. brown.

Gen. Outram. Bronze scarlet

368

BEDDING PLANTS.

HORSESHOE GERANIUMS. The following are fine varie-
ties : —

Perfection. Scarlet flower ; variegated foliage.
Scarlet Globe. Scarlet ; white eye.
Shottesham Pet. Cerise scarlet ; variegated foliage.
Golden Chain. Scarlet ; variegated foliage.
Annie. Brilliant scarlet ; variegated foliage.
Duchess of Kent. Scarlet ; white eye.
Bijou. Scarlet ; variegated foliage.
Princess Alice. Pink.

PETUNIAS. As we have before said, the fine varieties
are always propagated by cuttings. The following are
fine kinds : —

Countess of Ellesmere. Scarlet ; white eye.

Victory. Dark crimson.

Flag of America. Striped.

General Me Clcllan. Purple and white, double.

Miranda. Purple and white.

Solfei'ino. Purple, double.

Blonde. White, carmine edge.

La Rcine. Violet rose.

CUPHEA PLATYCENTRA, of which we have before spoken,
makes a fine bedding plant.

DOUBLE WHITE FEVERFEW is fine for garden culture.

NIEREMBERGIA. A delicate little plant, with fine foliage,
and salver-shaped flowers, covering the whole plant.

BEDDING PLANTS. 869

N. gracilis, flowers blue and white. N. grandiflora, pure
white, very large.

SALVIAS are indispensable for autumn bloom : the two
best are those we have before described — S. splendens?
with scarlet, and S. patens, with blue flowers.

TKITOMA UVAKIA is a stately-growing plant, with reedy
leaves, throwing up a tall spike of crimson orange flowers.
It must be preserved in the cellar in winter. The variety
Glaucescens is not so highly colored, and Serotina blooms
late into the autumn.

In addition to these, the various kinds of Carnation and
Picotee Pinks, Tea Roses, Pansies, Daisies, Ageratum,
Lychnis, Bouvardias, Anterrhinums, Gaillardia, Lemon
Verbena, and Lobelia, can generally be obtained at the
green-houses. All these make good summer-blooming
plants.

CHAPTER XXV.

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

Preparation of Ground. — Planting-. — Protecting. — Summer Treatment.

— Tulips.— Crown Imperial. — Guinea Hen
Flower. — Anemones and Ranunculus. — Col-
chicum. — Dog- Tooth Violet. — The Lily. —
Preparation of Soil. — Species. — Tiger Flower.

— Dahlia. — Tube Roses. — Gladiolus. — Am-
aryllis.

THE greater part of the Dutch
bulbs, which we have so fully de-
scribed in former pages, will, if
planted out in the open border, and
slightly .covered with manure, endure the
winter, and bloom in spring or summer. The
species and varieties have already been de-
"scribed. Their out-door treatment is very
simple. Select a warm, sunny spot in the garden, where
good drainage can be secured ; trench this about eighteen
inches deep, digging in a liberal quantity of well-rotted
cow manure, and enough pure sand to make the soil rather

(370)

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 371

loose. This being done, about the first of October plant
the bulbs in lines and circles, or as may suit the fancy.

The usual fault in planting bulbs is not setting them
deep enough ; they are often thrown out by the frost.

Hyacinths should be planted four inches deep ; Crocus,
two inches ; Iris, three inches ; Snowdrops, two inches ;
Jonquils and Narcissus, three inches.

The bulbs planted, a good covering of coarse manure
and straw should be laid over the bed about the first of
December, or just before the ground freezes up.

In the spring, say about the first of April, rake off the
straw. The bulbs will be found well up ; the blanched stalks
will soon turn green, and an abundance of bloom will follow.

After the leaves have died down, if you have fine varie-
ties, it is best to take them up, and keep them in a dry
place until the season for planting comes again. The gen-
eral practice is, however, to allow the bulbs to remain in
the ground, where, if undisturbed, they will bloom year
after year.

This treatment is suitable for Hyacinths, Crocus, hardy
Gladiolus, Iris, Jonquils, Narcissus, and Snowdrops.

The POLYANTHUS NARCISSUS, of which we have before
spoken, are not perfectly hardy ; the bulbs live, but

372 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

they make too early a growth, and are usually frost-
bitten.

The culture of the fine varieties of the TULIP requires
more care. A bed for choice tulips is prepared by excavating
a pit a foot and a half or two feet deep ; a piece of ground
in an open, airy situation, and dry at bottom, having been
chosen. In this pit a layer is placed of thoroughly rotten
horse dung, at least two years old, and generally the
remains of an old hot-bed, and the bed is filled in to
within one inch of the top with rich sandy loam ; old
loamy turf, chopped fine and mixed with sand, and a little
rotten dung, is the best, where it can be procured. The
surface of the bed is then covered with sharp or drift sand,
and in this the bulbs are planted about six inches apart
every way, and the bed is filled up so as to raise it about
three inches above the surface, and to bury the bulbs about
four inches deep. The bed should be highest in the
middle, and slope to both sides, to throw off the rain.
The bulbs are generally planted in October, and as the
tulip is very hardy, it seldom requires any protection,
unless the winter should be very unfavorable, either
from severe frosts or almost constant rain, in which
case the bed may be protected by being hooped over,

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 373

and then covered with mats, care being taken to leave
a part to open when the weather is fine. When the plants
are near flowering, a frame should be placed round them
to support an awning to shield them from the sun
and rain. As the bed is generally four feet wide, the
frame, which includes a walk round it, is about twelve
feet wide ; the length varies according to the extent of the
ground, or the number of bulbs to be planted. When
the flowers fall, and the leaves begin to turn yellow at
the tips, the bulbs may be taken up and laid on
shelves, with the root end uppermost, to dry. When
the fibrous roots are sufficiently withered to allow them to
be rubbed off, the bulbs may be placed in drawers or
boxed, where they must be kept dry until the season for
planting arrives.

If the bulbs are not taken up they soon deteriorate,
the flowers returning to the original red self- color of the
species.

The CROWN IMPERIALS (Fritillaria Imperialis) are the
most stately of spring bulbs. The varieties are yellow
and red, single and double, golden and silver-leaved, and
many named varieties, which do not, however, differ much
in color from those above named.
32

374 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

They are all highly ornamental, and will thrive in any
rich, deep soil. They are impatient of being disturbed,
and when taken up should never be long kept out of the
ground.

The same treatment is required for Frittelaria Persica, a
beautiful species, with glaucous blue foliage, and a large
cluster of purplish flowers.

FRITILLAKIA MELEAGEIS is the pretty little Guinea Hen
Flower ; there are also white varieties. The treatment
above described for the crocus will suit it perfectly ; it
flowers about the middle of May.

ANEMONES and RANUNCULUS seldom do well in our cli-
mate under open culture ; our winters are. so long and wet
the tubers either sprout prematurely, and are killed, or rot in
the ground. The hundreds of packages sold each autumn,
at auction, are not worth the paper they are wrapped in.

COLCHICUM-AUTUMNALE is a pretty bulb, with flowers
resembling a crocus, purple, white, striped, single and
double ; treat as a crocus. The peculiarity of the plant is,
that the flowers are produced late in autumn; and the
leaves appear, ripening the seed, in the following spring.
It is a very pretty and interesting plant. The bulbs are
very large, and when once planted should not be disturbed
There are also spring- blooming varieties.

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 375

DOG-TOOTH VIOLET (Eryihroniutn dens canis) ; a most
lovely flower, purple and white. It is very liable to die
out, and should not be disturbed after being planted. The
bulbs should never be kept long out of the ground. This
little bulb is worthy of every care ; its flowers are among
the most beautiful and graceful in the floral kingdom.
It may be imported for a few pennies per bulb, but
cannot, to our knowledge, be obtained in this country.
The loss on importations is about fifty per cent., from
rotting and drying. Our woods produce a pretty yellow
species, with beautiful foliage. It succeeds poorly in the
garden.

THE LILY. This is a large family of ornamental bulbs ;
many of them are hardy, and indispensable in the flower
garden.

The plants will grow in any garden soil, but a little
attention will be repaid by greater luxuriance and more
abundant bloom.

The proper soil is a compost of one part loam, one
part peat, one part clean sand, and one part leaf mould.
Excavate the soil for about two feet in depth, and fill in
with the compost. The bulbs should be planted from
three to five inches deep, according to the size. Autumn

376 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

planting is preferable. The bulbs, if kept long out of
the ground, shrivel and are weakened ; it is on this
account that imported bulbs so seldom flower well the
first year.

The soil should be frequently enriched, as the lily is a
gross feeder, and will bear a large amount of manure,
showing the effect in increased size of stem and leaves,
and number of blossoms.

During the winter the bulbs should be protected by a
covering of coarse manure, and in summer a little mulch-
ing placed over the bed, to protect the ground from the
sun, is beneficial. The best species are, —

Lilium candidum, one of the oldest • garden flowers ;
always a favorite, from its fragrance and beauty ; too well
known to need description. A variety with double flowers
is destitute of beauty, and can only be regarded as a mon-
strosity ; the variety with striped leaves is desirable. L.
perigrinum somewhat resembles the last, but is botan-
ically distinct. L. bulbifemm is the common orange
lily. L. longiflorum, a lovely species ; flowers, pure
white, very long, and fragrant ; requires slight protection
during the winter. Lilium lancifolium album, L. I.
roseum, L. L speciosum : These three lilies are generally

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 377

known as Japan Lilies. The former is pure white, and is
a plant of most vigorous growth, the stems often pro-
ducing from ten to twenty flowers ; it is as hardy as the
common white lily, and like it, will grow in any good
garden soil. To produce the flowers in perfection, a rich,
deep soil, as above directed, should be prepared, and the
bulbs planted at least one foot from each other every way.
The growth of the other two varieties is weaker, but the
flowers are of surpassing beauty; deep rose or red, all
spotted and rough, with brilliant shining points, resembling
so many gems. Treatment for all the varieties is the
same. There are many fine seedlings.

L. Japonicum, a variety with large, white, bell-shaped
flowers, resembling L. longiflorum. Treat as the last two
species.

L. monadelphum, a pretty species, resembling in growth
the Martagon family, — sometimes called the Caucasian
Lily, from its native country ; flowers, yellow spotted,
drooping. Will grow in any garden soil.

L. Philadelphicum, one of our native species, commonly
called the Blackberry Lily. Soil should be rather sandy ;
flowers deep red, spotted with black.

L. Canadense, another fine native variety, with light
32*

378 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

orange and yellow drooping flowers. It improves wonder-
fully in cultivation, often throwing a stalk five feet in
height, bearing twenty flowers.

L. superbum, our finest native species ; flowers orange
reddish, with numerous spots ; drooping. Succeeds as well
as L. Canadense in cultivation.

L. Martagon, fine varieties, with white and purple
flowers ; very ornamental, and hardy, if the soil is rather
sandy.

L. chalcedonicum, the Scarlet Martagon ; one of the
most highly-colored species ; hardy, and worthy of a place
in every garden.

L. testaceum, or excehum, a beautiful species, growing
from two to four feet high ; flowers in terminal umbels,
yellow or straw color, with faint red spots. It should be
planted deep, as the bulb makes roots both above and
below ; perfectly hardy.

L. Tliunbergianum, a showy, orange red variety, from
Japan ; hardy.

L. auratum is the new Golden-banded Lily, just intro-
duced. In size and markings it is the most beautiful of the
family. It will probably prove hardy, but as yet is very
rare.

HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 379

We have now to say a few words about summer bulbs,
or tubers, which have not been mentioned in former
chapters.

TIGRIDIA (Tiger Flower). This is a beautiful class of
Mexican bulbs, of easy culture, producing showy, spotted
flowers all summer. The most common varieties are T.
pavonia, rich scarlet, spotted with black ; T. conchiflora,
yellow, spotted with black ; T. speciosa, a hybrid between
these two species, and partaking of the character and color
of both. T. Wheelerii, a seedling from conchiflora.

The " blue Tiger Flower " is not a Tigridia, but Phila-
callis plumbea.

THE DAHLIA. This once popular flower is fast falling
into unpopularity, and will soon be consigned to oblivion.
It has seen its best days, and has been compelled to give
place to the Gladiolus, Hollyhock, and Double Zinnia.
It is hard to find what could have given the Dahlia its
popularity. It has no grace of growth or flower, is a coarse,
rank-growing and smelling plant, and beyond a certain
mechanical rosette arrangement of petal, has nothing to
recommend it. Its culture is simple. Set the tubers in
any rich, deep soil, and if the plants are not beaten down
by high winds, and the season is long, and no early frosts

380 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS.

occur, you will have flowers enough. Preserve the tubers
in a dry, frost-proof cellar during the winter.

We cannot, when there are so many beautiful flowers,
recommend any one to fill the garden with dahlias, but as
some may fancy them, we give a list of a few of the best.

Baron Alderson. Buff, white tip. Mrs. Charles Kean. Yellow, tipped
Fanny Keynes. Straw, crimson with white.

edge. Dandy. Blush, crimson, maroon.

Bessie. Clear yellow. Lady Popham. Blush white.

Queen of Whites. Pure white. Peerless. Yellow.

Mont Blanc. Pure white. Admiral Stopford. Dark maroon.

Lollipop. Buff and salmon. Lady Franklin. Deep buff.

Loveliness. White, tipped with pur- Vesta. Pure white.

Ple< Preeminent. Dark purple.

Pioneer. Crimson. Goldfinder. Deep yellow.

Miss Vyse. White and purple. Lady Paxton. Crimson, white tip.

Dwarf Varieties.

Cupid. White, tipped with claret. Golden Ball. Deep yellow.
Zelinda. Purple. Alba Floribimda Nana. White.

Captain Ingraham. Dark crimson. Victor Hugo. Crimson.

Of Gladiolus, Tube Roses, and Amaryllis, we have
treated fully in former chapters.

CHAPTER XXVI.

i

SPRING FLOWERS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM,

WE have promised to lead the reader into the woods
and fields, there to gather the rich blossoms which
Nature scatters freely; which grow and bloom with no care
from the hand of man, and often, in beauty, grace, and

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382 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

fragrance, surpass the most gorgeous inmates of our gar-
dens. Scarcely have the March snows forsaken the sunny
forest nooks, when the chilly winds are redolent with a
strange perfume ; it is unlike any other, — peculiar, —
and calls up balmy memories of spring, and buds, and
flowers.

Whence comes it ? The maples are still dark and gray,
in their winter's sleep ; not a crimson bud has yet dared
to peep forth ; and the willows, though glistening in the
sunlight with their peculiar spring color (if we may so
speak), still keep the downy catkins folded away beneath
the sheathing bracts. Search the woods around, and if
a stranger to woodland mysteries, if you have not that
hidden sympathy with Nature which draws you to the
flowers, your labor will be in vain. But brush away
the fallen leaves, which have so tenderly warmed the
earth during the long cold nights ; see, amid tufts of
rough roundish leaves, some dark green, some brown,
disfigured, a blossom which seems delicately fashioned
by fairy fingers, or a gem from Flora's own diadem.
Gather it carefully ; it is the first flower of spring, the
promise of the year, a token of sunny days and leafy
woods, of balmy winds and smiling skies. The botanist

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 383

will call it Epigcea repens ; some, the Trailing Arbutus,
and Ground Laurel, and others, again, Mayflower, — and
all are right. We have no patience with the pedantry
which would supplant our old-fashioned names, homely
though they be, by learned Latinisms or musty Greek ;
though in this case the botanical name, signifying creep-
ing upon the earth, is peculiarly significant. The plant is
low-growing, hardly attaining the dignity of a shrub ; it is
covered with rusty hairs, has evergreen leaves, rounded and
heart-shaped, alternate : the flowers are rosy red or white.
It is found in sandy soils, sometimes in rocky situations,
especially in the shade of pines.

We have never known this plant to succeed well in
cultivation, though doubtless it could be easily grown
with slight attention; certainly its beauty merits every
endeavor. In England it is valued, and found in the
catalogues of nurserymen. A fine variety has been ori-
ginated, called E. rubicunda, the flowers of which are
larger than those of the species, of a rich pink, and the
plant is quite hardy.

The Epigaea is found from Nova Scotia to the Carolinas ;
there is but one species, — the one above described.

Almost as early as the Epiga?a, on the sunny hills,

384 SPUING FLOWERS, AND

open the azure blossoms of the Hepatioa, a pretty and
favorite flower, always a welcome guest, and the next
herald sent by approaching Spring to announce her ad-
vent. On a bright sunny day, what can be more lovely
than a tuft of these beautiful harbingers of spring, gazing
with open eyes to the heavens !

"Blue, blue as if the sky let fall
A flower from its cerulean wall."

The wild varieties are found of every shade, from a
deep blue to pure white ; the former are the most com-
mon ; we also find shades of pink and purple. There
are two varieties, distinguished by the shape of the
leaves, and named respectively, H. triloba and H. acuti-
loba, of which the latter is the rarer ; the two varieties
sometimes run into each other. The common names are
Liver-leaf, so called from the fancied resemblance of the
leaves to the liver, and far prettier, Squirrel-cups. It is
a delicate plant, the flowers always appearing before the
new foliage, and pushing up in great numbers among
the old leaves. The leaves are heart-shaped at the base,
and divided into three or five entire lobes. This flower
has been much improved by cultivation ; we have spoken
at length, in a previous chapter, of the double red va-

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 385

riety, which is a perfect gem of beauty; the double
blue is very common in England, and is very desirable ;
the double white is very rare in England, if, indeed, it
be not lost from cultivation.

Next, as the spring advances, we find the dry hills
and pastures covered with the common Mouse-ear (Gna-
phalium plantagineuni). It is a plant of little beauty to
the naked eye (though it develops finely under the mi-
croscope), exhaling a rich spring fragrance. At seasons
when flowers are more plentiful it would be passed by
unnoticed, but in spring it is cherished as an added
promise of sunny days.

The barren and fertile florets are on separate plants ;
the former are white, with revolute segments and brown
anthers ; the latter are cylindrical.

The warm sun soon calls out, on the dry, rocky hills,
the early Saxifrage (Saxifraga vernalis). The flowers are
white, crowded, arranged- in corymbed panicles, and ex-
hale a pleasant fragrance.

The leaves are radical, spreading upon the ground,
producing the flower-stalk or stalks from the centre. It
is a pretty flower, a favorite of children, and we always
welcome its advent.
33

386 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

And now, as the days lengthen and the sun gains
power, as May-day has come and passed, the woods and
hill-sides bloom with countless blossoms. The grass, tak-
ing an early start, has thrown up long green spires, and
the hill-side grasses are already in bloom, and waving in
the wind their delicate pollen- clad antlers. In the woods
spring has come; the maple is lifting a censer of blos-
soms, the willows by the stream are yellow with bloom ;
the poplars begin to expand their delicate green foliage,
and the elms have already dropped their brownish-red
blossoms, and hang with their greenish seed-vessels,
among which the shootings of the tender leaf may be
perceived. Myriads of birds make vocal all the forest
aisles, and each woodland path is carpeted with flowers.
From so many candidates for our favor, which or what
shall we choose ?

In the woods grow the Anemones, and peep from
their borders at the violets, which make blue the fields
beyond. Therefore let Anemones and Violets be our
choice, — flowers loved and welcomed by all.

How many associations cling around the VIOLET ! What
pleasing recollections it recalls ! Who is there that does
not love it ? It is a modest flower, never obtruding

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 387

itself upon us, except when its numbers make all the
hill-sides blue, when he must be blind indeed, and insen-
sible to floral beauties, who fails to notice it. About
twenty species are natives of the northern United States,
of which about thirteen are found in New England.
The colors are white, blue, and purple, in various shades,
and yellow. Those most commonly met with are, —

Viola lanceolata (Lance-leaved Violet). This is one of
our most common species ; petals white, the lower ones
slightly veined with lilac ; it is generally found in meadows.

Viola llanda. Very nearly resembling the last, and
often running into it ; the leaves are roundish instead
of lanceolate, and the flowers more fragrant ; color white.
Between this and the last almost every variety of leaf
occurs.

Viola acuta, or primulcefolia seems to be intermedi-
ate between the last two ; the flowers are white and
small. A native of damp meadows.

Viola cucullata (Common Blue Violet). Too well
known to need description ; the flowers vary much in
size and color, being deep or pale purple, nearly white,
or variegated with white. Common in damp grounds.

Viola palmata seems only to be a fine variety of the last.

388

Viola sagittata. This is our most common violet ; it
varies much according to the situation and soil in which
it grows, and has been described under various names.
In damp places its flowers are pale blue and large ; on
dry hills, where it is very common ( F. ovata), the flow-
ers are pale purple and very numerous.

Viola pedata. Our finest species^ easily distinguished
by its pedate, fine-cut leaves, and its large handsome
pale or deep purple flowers with orange centre. It is a
native of sandy or gravelly soils, flowering about a week
later than the common blue violets. The upper petals
are sometimes deep violet and velvety like a pansy.

Though the Violet has always been the emblem of mod-
esty, and is ever a favorite, to us the simple, blushing wood
ANEMONE is the fairest of the woodland flowers.

There are few which excel it in delicate grace and
beauty. The foliage is most ornamental, and the tintings
of the blossom most exquisite. The colors vary according
to the situation where it blooms ; in the shade, being deep,
rosy, or light pink-purple, in its many shades ; in the sun,
pure white, or delicately flushed with rose. We speak now
only of the common Wood Anemone ; the other species,
which loves the sunlight better, is usually pure white, very

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 389

rarely showing tintings of pink. These two species are
found in almost every locality ; in deep, low woods, or
rocky pastures, often fringing the edge of the forest with
their delicate blossoms, or clinging to the sides of shady
rocks. As the woods are cut away, and the underbrush
cleared up, the anemones gradually disappear, the rue-leaved
lingering the longer. The common species are, —

Anemone nemorosa (Wood Anemone). Root, creeping ;
stem erect, supporting a single flower above a whorl of com-
pound leaves. The flower consists of five petals. By cul-
tivatiori the stamens have been converted into petals, and a
double variety produced. It is very handsome and orna-
mental, though lacking the simple grace and beauty of the
single form. The Anemone succeeds well in cultivation if
the exposure is not too sunny.

Anemone tkalictroides, or Hue-leaved Anemone, called
by later botanists Thalictrum anemonoides. A very pretty
plant, distinguished from the last by its tuberous root and
the number of flowers, which vary from one to fifteen. The
stem bears two or three leaves at the very summit, like
those from the root (which are compound, usually three
times ternate), but without the common petiole, so that
they seem like a whorl of long- stalked, simple leaves.
33*

390 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

Pistils, several in a little head, tipped in a flat stigma.
This is a variable plant ; scarce two individuals are found
alike ; in its wild state it is inclined to sport, and is some-
times found double. It is like the last perennial, and very
ornamental, though lacking in graceful beauty.

Spangling the pastures and rocky hill, in pleasing con-
trast with the saxifrage and violets, we find the pretty yel-
low blossoms of the early Potentilla (P. sarmentosa). It is
a delicate species, blooming abundantly in April and May.
In early spring the flower stems are very short, but, as they
continue blooming, lengthen out often a foot or more, run-
ning along the ground, and rooting at the joints. The
leaves are quinate, and resemble slightly those of the straw-
berry, to which the family is nearly related.

There are several other species of Potentilla, which
bloom during the latter part of spring, or in the summer,
some of which are quite ornamental. We have in cultiva-
tion Potentilla, floribunda and arguta, both of which are
pretty additions to our bed of herbaceous plants. Some of
the cultivated varieties are very fine, the flowers being all
shades of orange, white, rose, pink, red, scarlet, and crim-
son. Two of the hardiest and most desirable are P. for'
mosa and atrosanguinea.

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 391

The Houstonia is a pleasing, simple little spring flower,
in some localities so abundant as to whiten the ground.
With us it is a favorite flower ; the delicacy of the bud and
flower is very marked, and the soft pearl-colored petals form
a pleasing contrast with the pale yellow eye.

The common species is H. coerulea, or, according to Gray,
Oldenlandia coerulea. It flowers in May and later, and. is
too well known to need description (often called Eye-bright).

While the hills are spangled with violets and potentilla,
and the woods are gay with anemones, the low grounds
are ornamented with the yellow blossoms of the Water-cress
or Cowslip (Caltha palustris). The flower bears some re-
semblance to the common butter-cup, but is larger, and has
the petals more spreading. It is a low-growing plant, of
frequent occurrence on the banks of low streams or ditches,
or growing in conspicuous clumps in very marshy ground.
Wre have never cultivated ft, because it is so plenty near us
in its wild state ; we have, however, no doubt that it could
be localized to drier spots, without diminishing the size or
detracting from the color of the flower. To those who
cannot obtain it in a wild state, it would well be worthy of
cultivation, and be a great addition to the flower border in
early spring. It rrpens seed freely, and in a few years, from
a single plant, will spread over a \vliole meadow.

892

In this plant the bright yellow leaves composing the
flower are not petals, but sepals ; the pistils are five to ten.
Leaves round or kidney-shaped, crenate or entire ; sepals
six. The plant is used as " greens," or salad, in early
spring, and sold in the markets under the name of Cowslips.
Both this name, and the equally common one of Water-
cress, are obviously incorrect ; the cowslip is a species of
primrose, and the water-cress a species of nasturtium, a
cruciferous plant. A better name for those who abhor
Latin, is Marsh Marigold.

There is a double variety which we have in our garden,
a very ornamental plant. The flowers, except in size, re-
semble the double buttercup, and like that plant often have
a green centre. It blooms in May, about the time the sin-
gle variety expands in the meadows, and continues some
weeks. It docs well with us in dry soil, and is perfectly
hardy. It may be obtained of florists, but is not common.

Early in May the rocky hills are decked with the delicate
and graceful blossoms of the Wild Columbine (Aquilegia
Canadensis). The flower is to well known to need descrip-
tion. It is a hardy perennial, loving shady, rocky clefts,
and clinging, with its slender roots, in almost inaccessible
places. The flowers are very graceful and nodding; in
fruit the stalk becomes upright.

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 393

Till within a few years the scarlet of this species had
never been obtained in varieties of the common garden
columbine (A. vulgaris of Europe). Latterly, however,
some new species, and many new varieties, some of great

merit, have been obtained, in some of which we find the

•
peculiar scarlet of the wild columbine. This plant is

greatly improved by cultivation. The stool increases in
size every year, and gives a profusion of flowers. We have
seen a single plant over a foot in diameter, supporting hun-
dreds of flowers. In cultivation it seems to prefer a rich
loam.

A companion of the Anemone nemorosa is the pretty Bell-
wort, or Straw Flower ( Uvular ia sessili/olia). For delicate
grace it is not surpassed by any of the spring flowers.
Leaves, oval or lanceolate, oblong, pale, glaucous under-
neath ; height from six to nine inches ; flower, cream or
straw-colored, three fourths of an inch long. Easily culti-
vated and very pretty.

Uvularia (jrandiflora is a beautiful species, with yellow
flowers. With us, in cultivation it is a conspicuous orna-
ment of the flower border in May and June. Flowers more
than an inch long. A native of rich woods.

U. perfoliata resembles the last, but is a smaller plant ;
succeeds well in cultivation.

394 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

The Convallaria^ or Solomon's Seal, is a well known hab-
itant of our woods ; the little dwarf species, or false Solo-
mon's Seal, in some localities fairly carpeting the ground
with its light green, glossy leaves, and perfuming the air
with the spicy fragrance of its starry flowers.

All the species love a damp, shady locality, but Avill
flourish in almost any good rich soil. They are all plants
of easy culture, and improve greatly in cultivation ; plants
not unfrequently attaining twice the size of those in the
wild state. All love a rich soil, and will bear very high
manuring. We have grown them to great perfection in a
deep bed of well-rotted manure and leaf mould.

There have been some changes latterly made in this
genus, all the plants commonly known as Convallaria
being transferred to Polygonatum and Smilacina, except
C. majalis, the well known Lily of the Valley, which is
a native of this country and Europe, being found in the
high Alleghanies of Virginia and southward.

Convallaria biflora (Smilacina bifolia). Our common
low growing species, abundant in .most situations. Flow-
ers white and fragrant, in a short, erect cluster ; berries
white or spotted when unripe, scarlet when ripe. In
bloom about the first of June.

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 395

C. trifolia (Smilacina trifolia). Stem with three al-
ternate leaves, oblong, lanceolate ; spike of flowers erect,
terminal. Native of cold bogs. Berries red.

C. stellata (Smilacina stellata). Stem clothed with from
seven to twelve oblong, lanceolate leaves, downy when
young ; growing from ten to twelve inches high. Raceme
terminal, consisting of a few white flowers, with six ob-
long petals and six stamens. Berries blackish.

C. racemosa (Smilacina racemosd). A common plant
in moist, shady situations. Stem two feet high. Leaves
alternate, nearly sessile, oval acuminate. Stem terminat-
ing in a compound raceme of white flowers on peduncles,
usually of the same color. Berries pale red, sprinkled
with purple. Blooms in June.

Convallaria (Polygonatum) biflorum. Stem two feet
high, smooth, round, simple, nodding at top. Leaves
alternate, oval, nerved, pubescent, pale green. Flower-
stalks axillary, drooping, branched, supporting one, two,
or more pendulous, pale green, fragrant flowers. A very
pretty and not uncommon species. Native of shady
woods and hills, about old walls and fences.

C. caniculata (Polygonatum giganteum). A very tall
species, somewhat resembling the last, but distinguished

396

by its size and angular stalk. Stem three to six feet,
very stout ; peduncles two to eight flowered. A native
of woods and river banks, in alluvial soil. As remarked
by Professor Gray, the stem is not channelled in the liv-
ing plant, so the popular name of "caniculata" seems
inappropriate.

Our common species of Corydalis. are pretty, early flow-
ering plants ; natives of woods and rocky hills. They
succeed well in the garden, and improve in size and
color. They are nearly allied to the well-known Diely-
tra spectabilis, in our opinion the finest herbaceous plant
of recent introduction, which is alike valuable for its
hardiness and the beauty of its flowers and foliage. The
plants comprised under the name of Corydalis, have been
given to various classes, and have many synonymes ; all
belong, however, to the natural order Fumariacce, and to
the classes AdlurrtUL, Dicentra, Corydalis, and Fumaria.

Corydalis fungosa (Adlumia cirrhosa). A pretty climb-
ing species, common to gardens, and known as Mountain
Fringe. The plant attains the height of fifteen feet, climb-
ing by means of the tendril-like young leaf-stalks ; foliage
very delicate ; flowers, pale flesh color, in axillary racemes.
Native of damp woods.

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 397

Corydalis (Dicentra) cucularia (Dutchman's Breeches).
A very delicate plant, bearing fine-cut leaves, and a
scape of about half a dozen white flowers, tipped with
yellow. Root, a collection of small solid tubers, enclosed
in a common scaly sheath. A native of rich woods,
blooming in May or later. Rare in New England. A
very curious and ornamental plant.

Corydalis (Dicentra) Canadensis (Squirrel Corn). A
pretty species, native of rich woods. Name given on
account of the round, scattered, yellow tubers, which
resemble grains of corn. Flowers greenish white, tinged
with red, with the fragrance of hyacinths. A pretty plant.

Corydalis (Dicentra) eximia is a fine, large species,
with reddish-purple flowers, resembling the Dielytra. In
its wild state it is not, to our knowledge, found in New
England, but is not uncommon in gardens. As an orna-
mental plant it is most desirable, and increases rapidly
in rich soil.

Corydalis aurea. A very glaucous plant, native of
rocky banks ; flowers golden yellow, very showy ; the
richness of the color depends, however, on the location
of the plant. The plant, unlike all above described (ex-
cept C. fungosa), is biennial, and is often lost to culti-
34

398 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

vation by neglecting to save the seed, and plant every
year. A rich, moist, partially shaded border is very
favorable for the growth of this beautiful plant.

Corydalis glauca. Much more common than the last,
and less showy. Like it a biennial, blooming from early
May to July. It is a delicate plant, of a smooth, glau-
cous appearance. Flowers whitish, shaded with flesh
color, and yellow in panicled racemes. A native of
rocky hills, often found in the shallow deposit of soil
on large rocks, where it blooms very early, owing to the
reflected heat from the rock. It flourishes well with us
in common garden soil.

Sanguinaria Canadensis, or Bloodroot, is well known
as one of our earliest spring flowers. The flowers and
leaf proceed from the end of a fleshy root, and all,
on being wounded, emit a bright orange-red juice. We
copy a good description of the root : " The bud^ or
hybernaculum which terminates the root is composed of
successive scales or sheaths, the last of which acquires
considerable size as the plant springs up. By dissecting
this bud in the summer or autumn, we may discover the
embryo leaf and flower of the succeeding spring, and
with a common magnifier even the stamens may be

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 399

counted." The calyx consists of two concave, ovate, ob-
tuse leaves, which are perfect in the bud, but fall off
when the corolla expands. Petals eight or more. Seeds
very numerous, dark shining red, with conspicuous white
crest. The leaves grow during the summer, attaining a
large size, so as to appear like a different plant. Flow-
ers white, very handsome, contrasting beautifully with
the golden yellow stamens. This plant increases in size
in cultivation, and the flowers show a tendency to be-
come double. It ripens seed freely.

The common Buttercups, which from May to August
are so conspicuous in the fields, belong to the natural
family Rammculacece ; they are generally plants with white
or yellow flowers, annuals or perennials, with usually soli-
tary flowers. The fresh juice of all the species is acrid,
in some so much so as to raise blisters ; the plants are,
on account of this property, avoided by cattle ; but in
drying, this acrid property disappears, so the plants are
not as injurious to mowing as to pasture lands ; even,
however, in the former, Buttercups are not regarded by
farmers as acquisitions, and the plant is far more popu-
lar with children than with agriculturists. There are about
twenty species in the northern United States, some of

400 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

which are water plants. To describe, or even to name
all these, would exceed the limits of our pages ; we
will only mention those which are called by the general
name of Buttercups.

Ranunculus fascicularis. A low growing species, bloom-
ing on rocky hills in April and May. Perennial. Flow-
ers yellow, about an inch broad.

Ranunculus repens. Flowers as large or larger than
the last. The plant sends out long runners, by which it
is easy to distinguish it from the other species, but in
spring it often flowers from upright stems. Very variable
in size and foliage.

Ranunculus bulbosus. The most common species in
eastern New England, seldom found in the interior (Gray).
Root solid, fleshy, acrid. Stem erect, leafy. Flower com-
posed of six or seven petals, of a bright, glossy yellow.

Ranunculus acris. A taller species than the last ;
flower nearly as large, but not so bright a color. This
and the last are those most commonly met with in pas-
ture and mowing lands. The Double Buttercup is common
in our gardens, and very ornamental. There appear to
be two species, the one a low growing, running plant,
which often increases so rapidly as to almost become a

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 401

weed, the other tall growing, and only increased by
division. The latter is by far the ' most desirable, the
former often proving a troublesome favorite. The Double
White Buttercup (Ranunculus aconitifolius), or " Fair
Maids of France," is very rare. It is a beautiful little
flower, very double, pure white, and the foliage is re-
markably pretty. It is, however, very liable to be winter-
killed.

It has often been a question with us whether we have a
more beautiful wild flower than the common and much
despised Dandelion (Taraxacum dens leonis). The foliage
of pinnatifid or runcinate radical leaves, is very pretty, and
of a pleasing green ; the yellow flowers are of elegant form
and pleasant fragrance ; the single florets, when examined
through a microscope, are of singular beauty ; the globular
head of seeds is very ornamental. If this flower was now
first introduced from some distant country, the whole flori-
cultural world would go into ecstasies over its beauty ; but
as it is common, it is despised, and we say, in scorn, " only
a dandelion." We do not hope to induce any to cultivate
the Dandelion (to observe its beauties this is not necessary),
but if any will give closer heed to the beauties of the plant,
and observe with what lavish hand the great Creator has
34*

402 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

endowed it, our purpose in including the Dandelion in our
catalogue of spring flowers will be answered.

The early Meadow Rue (Thalictrum dioicum) is con-
spicuous on hills and in rocky woods in April and May.
The flowers are greenish, with yellow anthers, and are
noticeable for blooming so early in the spring ; the
foliage is very delicate. The white flowers of the larger
species (Thalictrum cornutum, or corynelluni), are very or-
namental in meadows in June and July. The foliage is
ornamental, and for this reason both of these plants would
be additions to the flower border. They are too common
and too well known to need further description.

TRILLIUM. A strikingly beautiful plant is the Trillium,
in all its species. It is a gem among spring flowers, but is
rarely met with in gardens, and is not common in the woods
and swamps. It seems to delight in old woods, and locali-
ties where the axe of the woodman has never found its
way, but where the old, moss-hung trees still maintain the
grandeur of the primeval forest. In such situations the
Trillium is at home. In early spring, the stem pushes up
from the short, tuber-like root, bearing at the top three
large, broad, ovate leaves, and a terminal flower. The plant
delights in shade and moisture, and the root is commonly

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 403

found deep in the peaty turf or moss. In congenial situa-
tions, the leaves and flower are very large, and the whole
plant has a somewhat rank appearance ; but in drier soils,
the growth is less rapid, and the plant, though less vigor-
ous, is more sturdy. After the fall of the flower, the plant
bears a large, six-sided, purple or red berry, which is very
ornamental. The name is derived from the Latin triplex,
triple, all the parts being in threes ; leaves, petals, and
sepals, all three, though monstrosities, sometimes occur.
The plants are of easy culture, if planted in proper soil
and transplanted at the proper season. The soil should be
rich, peaty loam, and the situation moist, for in sandy, dry
soil the plants never succeed.

We have known plants to flower several years in common
garden soil, but if we except Trillium erectum and grandi-
florum, which sometimes flourish in moist loam, all the
species require a prepared soil ; a rhododendron or azalea
bed is well suited to them.

The proper time for transplanting is late in the autumn,
after the stem has died down. They may also be moved in
the spring, but as the root starts so early in the season the
experiment is not safe. The principal species are, —

Trillium cernuum (Nodding Trillium). This is the most

404

common variety of New England, and the least ornamental
of the genus. Leaves, three large, roundish, or rather
rhomboidal pointed ; petals white, about an inch long,
reflexed longer than the sepals ; the flower bends down so
as to be hidden by the leaves. A native of moist, shady
thickets. This species is worthy a place in the flower
border, and succeeds with little care ; it has not with us,
however, increased in cultivation, or improved in size or
color.

T. erectum (Purple Trillium). Leaves nearly as broad
as long, abruptly pointed ; petals ovate, flat, spreading,
broader, but not much longer than the sepals ; flowers
dark brownish-purple, green outside, of not a very pleasant
odor, nodding on an inclined peduncle. A native of old,
rich woods. Succeeds and increases in cultivation, but is
not desirable for a bouquet flower.

T. pictum, or erytlirocarpum (Painted Trillium). A very
delicate and beautiful species. Leaves ovate, taper-pointed ;
petals ovate, or ovate-lanceolate, pointed, wavy, wide,
spreading, painted with purple stripes at the base, almost
twice the length of the sepals, and shorter than the pedun-
cle (Gray). This lovely species is difficult to cultivate.
We have bloomed it in the border for three successive

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 405

years, but the plants dwindled year by year, and finally
disappeared. The trouble appears to be a want of moisture.
In the wild state the plant is never found except in cold,
damp woods and bogs. Could this requisite be supplied,
we see no reason why this fine plant should not do well ;
certainly from its beauty it merits every attention. It is
not a common species in New England.

T. grand! florum. This species is the largest and finest
of the genus. Leaves longer than broad, rhomboid, ovate ;
petals obovate, longer and broader than the sepals, spread-
ing at the top ; color pure white, turning before the flower
fades to dark rose color ; flower on a stem about two
inches long. Petals from two to three inches long.
Native of rich woods ; not uncommon in the north of
New England. Berry dark purple. This fine species is
of the easiest cultivation. The soil, if rich loam, needs no
further preparation ; it does not succeed in light, sandy
soil. We have seen it bloomed in gardens of a size sur-
passing that of the wild plant. Plants may be obtained of
some of our florists, but the easiest way is to obtain them
from their native woods in the proper season.

Our other native species are, —

T. sessile. Color dark and dull purple, varying to

406 SPRING FLOWERS, AND

greenish. Native of moist woods, Pennsylvania to Wis-
consin, and southward.

T. recurvatum. Color dark purple. Native of Wiscon-
sin, Illinois, Kentucky, and southward.

T. erectum, var. album. Petals greenish-white, rarely
yellowish ; ovary mostly purple (Gray). Found with the
species, from which it otherwise does not differ, especially
from New York westward.

T. nivale (D \varf White Trillium). Petals white, wavy.
Native of rich woods, Ohio to Wisconsin.

The smooth, shining, evergreen leaves of the Goldthread
(Coptis trifolia), are very conspicuous in wet bogs and low
woods in early spring. In some localities they fairly carpet
the ground, and when spangled with the white starry
flowers the effect is very pleasing. The plant is a low-
growing perennial, with creeping roots of a golden yellow
color (whence the name). In places where the plant is
abundant, they run through the dark bog earth in every
direction, appearing not unlike threads of gold. The scape
bears one small, starry, white flower, composed of five to
seven club-shaped petals ; stamens from fifteen to twenty-
five ; pistils from three to seven ; seeds numerous, black,
oval. Blooms from middle of May to June.

WHERE TO FIND THEM. 407

One of our finest native plants is the Erythroniimi
Americanum, commonly called Dog's-tooth Violet, though
why called Violet has been a puzzle to botanists. The
plant belongs to the Lily tribe, and is the smallest of the
family. Root a solid scaly bulb, deep in the ground, white
inside, brown outside. Plant smooth. Leaves elliptical,
lanceolate, pale green, dotted or clouded with irregular
spots. Flower drooping, solitary, composed of six pale
yellow petals, dotted near the base, expanding in sunny
weather. The rapidity with which this plant exhales
moisture is very remarkable. It is almost impossible to
carry it any distance in the hand, as it dries and fades very
rapidly. This lovely flower may be cultivated in a deep,
moist, loamy soil ; in any other it dwindles year by year.
It is a native of moist woods and thickets, and is not
uncommon.

According to Gray, E. bracteatum, of Boott and Bigelow,
is only an accidental state of this species. The flower is
larger, and the scape has a narrow lanceolate bract about
an inch long, situated about an inch below the flower. It
also differs slightly otherwise.

E. albidum, the white Dog's-tooth Violet, is not found in
New England. The leaves are spotted, not dotted ; flower

408

SPRING FLOWERS.

white. Native of low thickets from Albany, New York,
to Western Pennsylvania, to Wisconsin, and southward.

Thus have we gathered our bouquet of Spring Flowers.
We have roamed through the woods and fields, and culled
their treasures without exhausting the store. Many flowers
have we neglected; much have we passed by unnoticed.
We lay no claim to completeness ; it requires many a
ramble to learn all the flowers teach ; but if we have
introduced any one to a new flower, our purpose is
answered.

CHAPTER XXVII.

New Azaleas. — Notes on Cyclamen. — New Pelargoniums. — Verbenas. — Helio-
trope.— New Roses. — Pinks. — Fuchsias. — Abutilon. — Callas. — Cuphea.
— Chrysanthemums.

I

N the previous chapters, first printed in 1863, we have
followed the course of horticulture to that year. Now
in 1876, twelve years since our first edition was issued, the
progress of horticulture demands additional chapters to
bring our subject to the standard of knowledge of the
present day.

Each passing year has given us, both by discovery and
hybridization, many new plants, and although in floriculture
novelty is by no means a criterion of superiority, we have
yet obtained many plants which are decided acquisitions.

In bedding plants, such as Verbenas and Pelargoniums
in bulbs, in roses, each year some old varieties are lost
to cultivation, and their places are taken by new kinds,
which in their turn often give place to others of yet more
recent origin.

Some of the varieties mentioned in former pages, it

410 AZALEA INDICA.

would be difficult now to find in any florist's catalogue ; thus
supplementary lists become necessary.

AZALEA INDICA.

In this popular plant there has been great improvement.
Although the old varieties are still cultivated, many of the
new seedlings, especially those produced by continental cul-
tivators, are superior to any of former years.

In substance of flower, brilliancy of color, form, and
habit, they are far in advance of old varieties.

The double-flowered kinds, although in our opinion by
no means as beautiful as the single, from the durability of
the flower are most valuable. .

It is a great question, upon which cultivators differ in
opinion, whether the most effective way of growing azaleas
is by the natural or artificial system.

In the former, the plant is allowed to grow as it will, too
luxuriant shoots only being pinched, and it soon forms a
spreading plant, which every year covers itself with flower.
In the latter, each shoot must conform to a required style of
growth, be it pyramidal, flat, or round, must be pinched in
or tied out, until the plant becomes a symmetrical shape of
green, hidden when in bloom by the mass of flower.

To us the natural growth is far more pleasing, although,
perhaps, more brilliant effects are produced by the artificial.

AZALEA INDICA. 411

The catalogues of florists contain lists of hundreds of
azaleas, all of which are beautiful. There is, however,
great room for selection, and as none can grow all, we give
a list of a few which cannot fail to give general satisfac-
tion.

Flag of Truce. Pure double white.

Souvenir de Prince Albert. White and rose, very large
double flower, — a late blooming variety.

Sigismund Rucker. A very distinct variety with large
flowers, rosy lake with broad margin of pure white, large
blotch of crimson-maroon on upper petals.

Decora. A very old variety, but unsurpassed for fine,
compact habit and brilliant flower.

Mont Blanc. Pure double white flowers of great sub-
stance.

Mademoiselle Leonee Van Houtte. Rose with sulphur-
yellow blotch.

Ghelsoni. Orange-scarlet.

Due de Nassau. Rosy carmine, semi-double.

Alice. Double rose, vermilion blotch.

Baronne de Vrere. Snow-white flowers, red stripes,
sulphur blotch.

Eulalie Van Geert. Fine, large, variegated flower.
There is also a variety with variegated foliage.

Dominique Vervaene. Bright, orange-red, double flow-
ers.

412 CYCLAMEN.

Mrs. William Bull Large, white, fine form.

Marquis of Lome. Orange-scarlet, saffron spots.

Roi Leopold. Salmon, light centre.

Stella. Orange-scarlet, violet spots.

Hoi d' Holland. Rich scarlet, finely spotted.

CYCLAMEN.

Cyclamen may be easily raised from seed, and thus with-
in the last few years many choice varieties have been ob-
tained.

The seed should be sown as soon as ripe, say about the
first of July, on a compost of rich garden loam and leaf
mould, with a little sharp sand. Germination takes place
in about six weeks ; if, however, the seed has been allowed
to dry, this period is considerably increased.

When once the plants have shown their first leaves, they
should by frequent watering, be kept in a growing state for
about eighteen months ; that is, till after the second spring,
at which period they would naturally rest. Rest the bulbs
then out of doors for a short time, and then pot them sepa-
rately in a compost of rich sandy loam, with well-rotted
cow dung, and bits of charcoal. They will bloom freely
that autumn. If, however, we wish, Cyclamen may be
bloomed in one year from seed, by keeping the bulbs in

NEW PELARGONIUMS. 413

active growth, and giving plenty of heat. The variety of
color obtained in these seedlings, is no less remarkable than
the size of flower. Figures of some of these may be
found in " Floral Magazine," plates 339, 387, 442, 488.

The most successful raiser of Cyclamen in the vicinity
of Boston, is James O'Brien of Jamaica Plain, who has
exhibited before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society,
magnificent plants, remarkable for size, color, and profusion
of bloom, and who grows this plant by thousands for tlie
market.

NEW PELARGONIUMS.

Every year has shown progress in these plants. Many
which we formerly recommended are now surpassed by
better varieties.

We cannot do better than give a selection from the
lists appended to the admirable paper upon the Pelargo-
nium, read before the Massachusetts Horticultural Society
last spring, by William Gray, Jr., to which paper, embody-
ing the results of careful experiment and close observa-
tion, we would call the attention of all growers.

Mr. Gray gives long lists, from which we select a few.

GOLDEN TRICOLORS.

Achievement, E. P. Benyon, Howarth Ashton, Lady .
Cullum, Lucy Grieve, Miss Goring, Mrs. Little, Macbeth.

414 NEW PELARGONIUMS.

SILVER TRICOLORS.

Eva Fish, Excellent, Lady D. Neville, Mrs. Laing, Mrs.
Glutton, Lass o'Gowrie, Princess Beatrice.

BRONZES.

Black Douglas, Earl of K-osslyn, Chieftain, Emperor of
Brazil, Reine Victoria, Mrs. John Lee, W. E. Gumbleton,
Marechal McMahon, Mrs. Harrison Weir.

ROUND-FLOWERING SCARLETS.

Beauty of Waltham, Coleshill, Lord Derby, Incompar-
able, Diana, Coeur de Lion, Orbiculatum, Omega, Sir
Charles Napier, Vesuvius, Majestic.

SCARLET, SHADED WITH ROSE.

Christian Dugin, JEstival, E. J. Lowe, Renown, Crystal
Palace Gem.

SCARLET, SHADED WITH PURPLE.

lanthe, Peabody, Shade of Evening, Madame Mezard,
T. Hammersley.

SALMON-SCARLET.
E. S. Dodwell, King of Roses, Paul Brie.

NEW PELARGONIUMS. 415

PINK.

Master Christine, Mrs. Keeler, Rose Rendatler.

SALMON.

Acme, Albert Grevy, Gloire de Corbenay, Mme. Jean
Sisley, Polly King, President Thiers.

WHITE.

Mme. F. Hoch, Mrs. Sach, White Clipper, White Prin-
cess, White Wonder.

WHITE WITH ROSE CENTRE.

Alice Spencer, Madam Werle, The Bride, Remus, Miss
Gladstone, Marguerite Ponton.

Of Hybrid Nosegays the best Scarlets are Dr. Muret,
Emilio Castelar, Jessica, Sunshine, Wellington.

ROSE.

Caven Fox, Cherry Lips, Florence Durand, Lawrence
Hey wood, Mrs. Masters.

PINK.

Christine Nilsson, Delight, Lady Belper, Pink May
Queen, M. E. Buenzod, Mrs. F. Burnaby.

416 NEW PELARGONIUMS.

The above list may seem long, but it has been made
from experiment with many hundred varieties, and all
recommended are worth growing for house culture.

For bedding, however, a very short list will suffice.

Mr. Gray writes : " Orbiculatum, Sir John Moore,
Coleshill, Wellington, Douglas Pearson, and Sir Charles
Napier are the best among the Scarlets, and to these
must be added, for large beds, General Grant.

" For pinks I recommend but two, Master Christine and
Pink May Queen.

" There are no white-flowering varieties fit for bedding,
but their place is well supplied by the white-edged Albion
Cliffs.

"In the golden-leaved section, Crystal Palace Gem still
holds the first place.

" Of bronzes, the Moor is the best. Harold, the Earl of
Kosslyn, and the Marquis of Lome are next, but at a
long interval.

" There are no silver tricolors worth growing for bedding.
Of the golden ones Mrs. Pollock is the best."

VERBENA. 417

VERBENA.

Each year produces new varieties of this plant, so that it
is impossible to give a list of varieties which will prove of
permanent value. It would be impossible to find in any
collection of to-day the kinds described on page 102 ; yet
at the time that list was first printed, now about twelve
years ago, they were the popular varieties, and any prom-
inent florist could have furnished any of them by the thou-
sand.

The kinds grown to-day are probably no better in any
respect. So many good verbenas have been raised that
improvement seems almost impossible.

We give a short list for present use.

Amides Gerard. Dwarf purple.

Momtrosa. Large velvet-purple.

White Beauty. Fine white.

Silver Star. Crimson maroon.

Splendor. Vermilion, crimson eye.

Virginale. Large pure white.

Surprise. Rosy pink, yellow eye.

Austerlitz. Red, white eye.

Emily. Fine pink.

Scarlet Circle. Bright scarlet.

Colossus. Crimson, violet eye.
27

418 HELIOTROPE.

Gigantic. Crimson, very large.
Zenobia. Purple, white eye.
Ultramarine. Fine blue.
E. G. Henderson. Fine scarlet.

HELIOTROPE.

We can almost say of this plant what we have said of
the Verbena ; yet though many new varieties have been
produced the old have not been entirely superseded. The
following is a list of choice kinds: —

Jane Messmer. Light blue, very sweet.

Alexina. Lilac blush, large flowers.

Garibaldi. Nearly white.

General Valubert. Violet.

Le Pape. Blue and lilac.

Mina. Deep violet, white centre.

Madame Fillion. Clear violet, passing to lavender.

Jersey Beauty. The best blue for pot culture.

Etoile de Marseilles. Deep violet, white centre, large
truss, the best dark variety.

Souvenir de Leopold I. Dark blue, white eye.

Beaute des Parterres. Lilac, almost white when grown
under glass.

ROSES. 419

HOSES.

Of new tender Roses the name is legion, and all are
so good it is difficult to make a selection.

When, a few years since we first saw Marechal Niel, we
thought no mor.e splendid rose could be raised, and yet,
to-day, both Perle de Lyon and Belle Lyonnaise are its
superior.

We thought no finer or more beautifully-colored bud
than Bon Silene could be found, and yet Duchess of Edin-
burgh is superior in both these respects.

In fact it is hard to tell what not to grow. We give a
few of the choicest kinds, not all new, but all indispensable
to a choice collection.

Marechal Niel. Deep canary-yellow, very large, a
rampant grower; should be budded on some strong stock,
as thus it flowers more freely than on its own roots.

Bon Silene. Rich pink or cherry.

Bella. Pure white.

Safrano. Orange-yellow, fine bud.

Duchess of Edinburgh. Deep crimson.

Devoniensis (climbing). Creamy white, large.

Isabella Sprunt. Light-yellow.

Madame Villermoz. White, salmon centre, large and full.

Madame Falcot, Dark apricot,

420 ROSES.

Madame Margottin. Deep lemon, rosy peach centre.

Royal Tea. Pure white, very fine.

Belle Lyonnaise. Deep canary-yellow, changing to sal-
mon.

Perle de Lyon. Deep yellow.

Niphetos. Pure white, very fine.

Canari. Bright canary.

Pauline Lebonte. Blush pink, — a lovely rose which
will give more bloom than any we know. Fine globular
flower, lasting long when cut.

Alba rosa. White, rose centre, large and full.

Archimede. Rosy fawn, darker centre, — a large flower
of good substance.

La France. Rosy ; the most fragrant of all.

Souvenir d'un Ami. Pink, — a fine old rose.

Adam. Pink ; fine long bud.

Souvenir de Malmaison. Large, flesh-color.

Mrs. Bosanquet. Delicate flesh-color.

Madame Ducher. Fine form ; clear yellow.

For a showy bed in the garden Agrippina is the best rose ;
it is not hardy in New England, but requires frame pro-
tection in winter.

The bright-colored perpetual roses, such as General
Jacqueminot, are much used for forcing, and bring high
prices. A bouquet of this rose and Lily of the Valley, is
most charming in mid-winter.

PINKS. 421

The treatment is very simple . grow the plants in the
border as strong as possible till the middle of November •
pot them and keep them very cool in a cold frame or
shed, — a little freezing does no harm. About six weeks
before they are wanted, bring them into a cool house, let-
ting them there remain till the shoots are an inch long,
then remove them to the rose-house and force them with
plenty of water, light, and heat.

The Cherokee Rose (ft. Icevigatd) is a charming plant
for a cool house; the flowers are single, very large, pure
white.

PINKS.

In forcing pinks we have some very fine varieties, the
best for winter blooming are : —

La Purite, bright cherry, very free flowering.

La Belle. Pure white, very fragrant.

President Degraw. White, tinged with blush.

Louise Lenoir. Dark crimson.

Unique. Pure white.

Astoria. Yellow, marked with red.

422 FUCHSIAS.

FUCHSIAS.

To the list already given we add : —

Wave of Life. Scarlet sepals, violet-blue corolla, gold-
tinted foliage.

Elm City. Crimson-scarlet, double.

Conspicua. Crimson sepals, white corolla.

Tower of London. Carmine-scarlet, sepals recurved,
large violet-blue corolla.

Meteor. Fine bronze foliage.

White Eagle. White corolla, scarlet sepals.

Avalanche (Smith's). Double blush, sepals carmine-scar-
let.

Arabella, or Mrs. Marshall. Pure white tube and
sepals, rich rose corolla.

Balaclava. Carmine-scarlet sepals, violet corolla.

Emperor of Brazil. Reddish-crimson sepals, double vio-
let-purple corolla.

George Peabody. Double white corolla, very fine.

M. Lauth. Long carmine sepals, plum-colored corolla.

Sir Garnet Wolseley. Flame-colored sepals, deep violet-
purple, corolla double.

Sun-ray. Fine foliage, crimson, white, and green.

ABUTILON. — CALLA. 423

ABUTILON.

Several new Abutilons have proved very valuable, of
these the best is : —

Boule de Neige, a dwarf, free flowering* variety, with
pure white blossoms.

A. Pattersonii, or Santana, has large blossoms resem-
bling the old A. Bedfordianum, but is a comparatively
dwarf grower, and very free flowering.

A. vexillarium, or megapotamicum, has showy red and
bright yellow flowers, which contrast well with the black
anthers.

The variegated form has very showy foliage, and is one
of the best plants we have for summer carpet-bedding.

A. Verschaffeltii has pale yellow flowers, and is a very
handsome and desirable plant.

CALLA.

A new dwarf Calla (Richardia cethiopica nana) has
proved worthy of cultivation from its flowering freely and
occupying but little space. For house culture it is well
adapted, requiring the same treatment as the species.

The Spotted-leaved Calla (J?. maculata) has a hastate
leaf spotted with white ; the flower is green and not

424 CUPHEA. — CHRYSANTHEMUM.

showy. This plant must be allowed to dry off after growth.
Except for variety in a collection it is not desirable.

CUPHEA.

O. hyssopifolia is a very valuable plant for parlor culture.
It is of dwarf habit, fine dark green foliage, and is always
covered with delicate pink flowers.

It requires to be potted in good loam, and to have plenty
of light, and not to be kept very hot ; thus treated it will
never be out of bloom.

CHRYSANTHEMUM.

Every year gives new varieties which supplant those
previously grown. It is no easy task to make selections.

O. laciniatum is valuable for cut flowers, as it blooms
very late. The Japanese species is not generally popular,
the large ragged flowers being more curious than beau-
tiful.

For general show the large-flowered kinds are the best,
but the pompones are by far the prettiest flowers.

Some of the best large-flowered are Bijou, rose-purple ;
Countess of Derby, rose ; George Peabody, white ; Hero of
Stoke Newington, rosy blush ; Prince. Alfred, rose-crimson ;

CHRYSANTHEMUM. 425

Prince of Anemones, blush ; Mrs. Forsyth, white ; Baron
Buest, red and yellow.

Of Pompoms : Bob, rich crimson ; Ernest Senary* white
and rose ; Marc Aurele, purple crimson; Reine des Anemo-
nes, white ; Lilac Gem, lilac ; Danton, rose-lilac ; Fabeola,
lilac ; Golden Anemone, yellow ; Precocite, yellow ; Rose
d'amour, clear rose.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

New Hyacinths. — Gladiolus. — Forcing Lily of the Valley. — New Cannas. —
Lantanas. — Hardy Calceolarias. — Orchids for the Parlor. — Ferns for the
Parlor.

THE HYACINTH.

"VTEW varieties are yearly sent out by Dutch cultivators.
To the lists already given we may add, —

DOUBLE RED.

Koh-i-Noor. Bright salmon-pink. -
Shakespeare. Large rose.

DOUBLE WHITE.
Madame de Stael, Prince of Waterloo.

DOUBLE YELLOW.
Croesus, La Grandeur.

DOUBLE BLUE.
Comte de St. Priest, Sir Colin Campbell.

HYACINTH. — GLADIOLUS. 427

SINGLE RED.

Etna. Very fine large truss and flower.
Von Schiller. Very deep red.
Prince Albert Victor. Rich dark-crimson.
Princess Helena. Rosy pink.

SINGLE WHITE.

La Grandesse, Snowball, Alba maxima, L'Innocence,
Leviathan, Lord Shaftesbury.

SINGLE BLUE.
Blondin, Feruch Khan, King of Blues, Lothair.

SINGLE YELLOW.
Bird of Paradise, Liberia, Anna Carolina.

GLADIOLUS.

The experience of the last few years has shown that in
the production of seedling Gladiolus we are by no means
excelled by English and French growers. We may import
high-priced kinds, but from a collection of American seed-
~ngs we can often select. superior flowers.

There is, however, a difficulty in bringing to public

428 LILY OF THE VALLEY.

notice any new plant in this country. We have no large
growers who are in a position to take such a plant, prop-
agate it, and send it into the market, and many good seed-
lings are lost to cultivation.

To the general grower we say, buy, for general display,
the old varieties, of which we have already given lists, or
order from some dealer a few hundred unnamed seedlings,
in which there will not fail to be many good flowers.

Of new French varieties the best are, —

De Michel. Rose veined with lilac, throat dark carmine.

Le Vesuve. Fiery red, very large flower.

Murillo. Cherry red, all petals lined with white, with
large white spot on lower petals.

Psyche. Light satin-rose, lower petals darker rose.

Sirene. Salmon-rose.

In England the prize varieties the last summer were
Mons. Legouve, Ondine, Hercules, Orpheus, Pactole,
Psyche, Warrior, Adolphe Brogniart, Sylvia, John Wa-
terer, Seda, Madame Despertes, Almathea, Felix, Shake-
speare, Xerxes, Meyerbeer, Triumphans, Talisman.

FOKCING LILY OF THE VALLEY.

Within the last few years Lilies of the Valley have been
very profitably forced by florists, the stalks bringing ten

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 429

cents each. The clumps of roots, or the single erowna
are usually imported, these giving better bloom than
home-grown stock.

Single crowns are preferable to clumps, as they produce
more flower, and bloom equally all over the pot.

The crowns should be potted firmly in any soil (for they
will not make much root), the roots being cut off to within
two inches of the crown, at equal distances, in pots, pans,
or boxes. Keep the crown above the soil, as otherwise the
plants come up irregularly, and an even surface of bloom is
to be desired.

Place the pots in a cold-frame, and give moderate water-
ing. It is a good plan to cover the crowns with a layer of
sphagnum moss, as thus they swell evenly, and to keep
them covered until they begin to develop.

Bring them gradually into heat, and plunge them in bot-
tom-heat in a close frame, say from 80° to 90°. They will
stand any amount of bottom-heat, and may be forced into
bloom in three weeks, but if forced too rapidly there will
be all bloom and no foliage. This is desirable for cutting,
but for beauty both flower and foliage should be produced
together, and to do this the plants must be forced gradu-
ally.

It is a good plan to let the pots be exposed to frost be-
fore beginning the forcing, as thus the flower is much finer.

430 CALCEOLARIAS. — LANTANA.

This plant may be forced by placing the pots on the shelf
over a kitchen range, or on the hot pipes of a green-house.
The leaves and flowers will lack color if kept from the
light, but a few days exposure will remedy this want.

BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS.

These plants are not favorites, as they fail to give con-
tinuous bloom.

There has, however, been an improvement, and some
of the varieties are desirable, as in color they have no
rivals, —

Crimson Queen. A free grower, with scarlet-tinted
bronze-crimson flowers.

Pillar of Gold. Rich golden-yellow.

Sparkler. Yellow and maroon.

Aurea floribunda. Clear yellow. •

Crown Prince. Golden-yellow, large truss.

Amplexicaule. Lemon-yellow.

William Lucas. Vermilion-crimson.

THE LANTANA.

An improvement has been made in these plants by the
introduction of some dwarf varieties of continental origin.

NEW CANNAS, 431

The best of these is a light yellow flower, named Boule
d'Or, which either as a pot-plant or hi the garden, is a
mass of bloom, and is well worth general cultivation.

NEW CANNAS.

If the production of new varieties means progress, more
has been accomplished with this plant the past few years
than with 'any other.

We have before us the Catalogue of Messrs. Huber, of
Hyeres, France, in which one hundred and fifty varieties
are described.

The greatest improvement has been in the size and shape
of the flower.

Cannas were formerly foliage plants, now they are
among the most brilliant flowering plants of the garden.

In addition to the list we have given, the following vari-
eties are very fine : —

Adele Levallois. Very dwarf. Seldom growing more
than two feet high ; thick dark-green foliage, large daz-
zling crimson flowers.

Premice de Nice. Foliage glaucous-green, flowers cana-
ry-yellow.

~ Senateur Ghevreau. Bright green foliage, salmon-scarlet
flowers.

432 CANNAS. — ORCHIDS FOR THE PARLOR.

Auguste Ferrier. Large green leaves shaded with ma-
roon; the tallest variety, often growing nine feet high.
A very late bloomer, seldom flowering in New England ;
flowers red.

Iridiflora hybrida. Rich orange-scarlet flowers shaded
with crimson.

The newest varieties, which, however, have not been yet
proved in this country, are, —

Helvetia. Yellow, white, and carmine.

Auguste Buchner. Bright orange.

Oapucine. Brilliant red.

Vulcain. Bright red.

Dr. Livingston. Orange- carmine.

Gloire de Provence. Pale yellow, tipped with carmine.

Victoria. Saffron- yellow and carmine.

Souvenir de Barillet Deschamps. Vivid red.

Alegatiere. Bi^lliant orange.

Bonneti excelsa. Purple-red.

ORCHIDS FOR THE PARLOR.

Some few of the " cool orchids " will grow and bloom
well in the parlor.

They should be potted in rough peat and sphagnum moss,
with lumps of charcoal or broken potsherds, to keep the

FERNS FOR THE PARLOR. 433

soil open, and secure good drainage ; given full light, and
be kept warm, and in not a very dry atmosphere.

Those that we have found to succeed best are, —

Cypripedium insigne and O. venustum. Two East In-
dian species of Lady's Slipper, which grow freely and
bloom profusely, the flowers remaining long in perfection.

Lycaste Skinneri. A choice and showy plant, with large
white and purple flowers.

Odontoglossum grande. The largest flowered of the
Odontoglots, which grows and blooms freely at a low tem-
perature. Flowers rich yellow, veined with chocolate-
brown.

In the volume on " Window Gardening," we have given
full directions for the culture of these showy flowers.

FERNS FOR THE PARLOR.

Some ferns succeed well in the parlor, if the room is
light and airy.

They should be potted in a compost of peat, loam, and
sand, with good drainage. Over-watering must be avoided,
and full exposure to sunshine. If there is plenty of light,
they grow well on a centre-table. The best species for
parlor culture are, —

Adiantum cuneatum. A lovely species of maiden-hair,
28

484 FERNS FOR THE PARLOR.

from Brazil ; the fronds are graceful, and attain a large
size.

A. affine. A New Zealand species, delicate and pretty.

Davillia canariensis. A graceful and pretty fern, of
easy culture.

Pteris tremula. A large-growing species, which when
once established, soon makes a fine plant. It is one of the
hardiest and best.

P. cretica albo lineata. A pretty variegated fern ; fronds
light green, with clear white centre and midrib.

Nephrolepis exaltata and pectinata, are showy ferns, with
long, narrow fronds ; they grow freely, and are very or-
namental.

Polypodium vulgare is a well-known native fern, very
common in shady, rocky places. Transplanted to the par-
lor, it thrives well, and is quite as ornamental as many of
the rare exotic ferns.

CHAPTER XXIX.

New Hardy Shrubs. — Amygdalopsis. — Hydrangea. — Exochorda. — New Lilacs.
— Khodotypus. — Rapheolepis. —Magnolia. — Spirea. — New Hardy Roses. —
Ampelopsis. — Lonicera. — Clematis.

introduction of a new hardy shrub is of more ben-
efit than the discovery of a host of new greenhouse
plants.

The one can be grown by the people and all can enjoy it,
the others must ever remain the pleasure of a few.

It is, therefore, a pleasant duty to describe some new
shrubs which are real acquisitions, and adapted to general
cultivation.

AMYGDALOPSIS.

This charming plant (A. Lindleyana), more commonly
known as Prunus triloba, is a dwarf-growing plant, which
in early spring is a mass of large, bright, pink, rosette-like
flowers ; native of China. It has proved perfectly hardy,
and should be in every garden.

436 HYDRANGEA. — EXOCHORDA.

The flowers resemble those of the double flowering al-
mond, but are fuller and brighter, and three times larger.

The foliage is ornamental, and in autumn the round,
hard, plum-like fruit is very showy.

HYDRANGEA.

A very showy summer-blooming shrub, known as H.
paniculata grandiflora or deutzifolia, is coming into general
cultivation.

The flowers are white, in immense corymbs, and remain
weeks in full beauty, turning deep rose before they fade.

To produce large trusses, the soil should be rich and the
plant should be pruned in spring, the weak growth being
cut out. As this shrub blooms at a season when the shrub-
bery is generally barren of flowers, it is especially de-
sirable.

It has been generally propagated, and is now very cheap.

EXOCHOKDA.

This plant (E. grandiflora), known also as Spirea grand-
iflora, although for years grown in England as a green-
house plant, is perfectly hardy. We have plants eight feet
high, which stood the severe winter of 1872 without even
the tips of the shoots being killed.

LILACS. — RHODOTYPUS. 437

The foliage is glaucous-green, the flowers an inch in
diameter, white, with green centre, in long spikes, com-
pletely covering the plant in early June.

The only successful mode of propagation is by root cut-
tings in bottom heat.

It is not a common shrub, but is most desirable, and one
of the handsomest we grow.

LILACS.

The last few years have been prolific of new lilacs, which
are far superior to the old varieties, in size both of flower
and truss, and in rich coloring of flower.

Dr. Lindley is a magnificent variety, of strong growth,
with very large rich purple flowers.

The following are very fine : Charles X., Blanc virginal,
Goliah, Ville de Troyes, Dr. Noble, Ambroise Verschaffelt,
Gloire de Moulin s, Nigricans, Lavanensis.

A mass of these gives charming variety of color.

RHODOTYPUS.

R. kerrioides. Is a pretty shrub, resembling in foliage
the well-known Cochorus {Kerria japonica), but with large
white flowers.

438 EAPHIOLEPIS. — MAGNOLIA. — SPIKEA.

It is a dense-growing plant, preserving its foliage in good
condition to late autumn, and in winter is covered with
clusters of shining, hard, bfeck seeds.

It is perfectly hardy, and well worth growing.

RAPHIOLEPIS.

R. ovata is a low-growing shrub* with leathery dark
green foliage and spikes of showy white flowers, which are
succeeded by black berries. It is not hardy in New Eng-
land, but will probably prove so south of Philadelphia.

MAGNOLIA.

The newest Magnolia is M. Lenne, — a beautiful variety,
with very large, deep purplish-red flowers.

It has proved perfectly hardy with us at Glen Ridge, and
should find a place in every collection.

The flowers are produced before the leaves in early
spring, about a week later than those of M. Soulongiana.

SPIKEA.

Although there is nothing new in shrubby spireas we
desire to call attention to S. Thunbergi as the earliest

HARDY KOSES. 439

blooming species ; very free in growth and profuse in
bloom.

About the middle of May it is a mass of white flowers,
and is a very showy plant.

Although not very common, it cannot fail to be gen-
erally cultivated when its merits are known.

HAKDY EOSES.

To give a list of these would be to copy the florists'
catalogues. English, French, and Continental growers
every year send out so many new varieties, many of great
merit, that it is difficult to make a selection, and to at-
tempt a description would exceed the limits of our volume.

The following is a select list : —

Gomtesse d' Oxford. Bright shaded carmine, large, full
fine form.

General Jacqueminot. An old rose, but unsurpassed in
color, brilliant velvety-red.

Abbe Garaudier. Fine rose, large and full.

Paul Neron. Deep rose, immense flower.

Baronne de Rothschild. Bright rose, very large.

Dr. Andry. Rich crimson-shaded carmine.

Auguste Mie. Light pink, — a good old rose.

Madame Vidot. Delicate pink, cupped, very double.

440 AMPELOPSIS.

Due de Gazes. Deep crimson-scarlet.

Caroline de Sansal. Flesh color and blush, large.

Madame Lacharme. White suffused with pink, changing
to pure white.

Paul Verdier. Bright rose, imbricated, very double.

Heine des Blanches. Fine rosy white, very large.

Boule de Neige. Pure white, fine cup, double.

Edouard Morren. Bright carmine.

Oriflamme de St. Louis. Brilliant scarlet.

Prince Camille de Rohan. Dark velvety-crimson.

Prince Leon. Vivid crimson, large.

Alfred Colomb. Bright rich carmine.

La France. Deep pink, very fragrant.

Charles Rouillard. Lilac rose, very large.

John Hopper. Brilliant rose, crimson centre.

Princess Mary of Cambridge. Silvery pink, large and
full.

AMPELOPSIS.

A very valuable introduction is the new Japanese wood-
bine, Ampelopsis Veitchii, or tricuspidata.

It is a perfectly hardy climber, with small neat foliage
when young, and shoots which cling close to either wood,
stone, or brick.

It is admirably adapted for covering walls, and will take

LONICERA.— CLEMATIS. 441

the place of ivy which, unfortunately for us in New Eng-
land, is not hardy. The foliage turns a rich dark purple in
the autumn.

It is a rapid grower, is not attacked by insects, and is
altogether the best hardy foliage climber.

LONICEBA.

L. brachypoda aureo reticulata is a beautiful small leafed
species of honeysuckle, with leaves beautifully reticulated
with golden veins.

At a distance it appears a mass of yellow, and is invalu-
able for growing with dark foliage vines.

Although generally hardy this plant is sometimes winter-
killed, and therefore should have a sheltered situation and
be slightly protected in winter.

THE CLEMATIS.

When the first edition of this book was issued, there
were comparatively few Clematis in cultivation.

The last three years have greatly added to the number,
until now it is difficult to make a selection where all are so
beautiful.

The general treatment has been given in the previous
pages.

442 CLEMATIS.

These hybrid Clematis divide themselves into several
classes, and in classification we follow that of English cul-
tivators, giving a list of the best of each.

FLORIDA TYPE.

Fortunii. Double white.

John Gould Veitch. Double mauve. Floral Magazine,
page 394.

Lucie Lemoine. Double white. Floral Magazine, page
102.

These like the species are precariously hardy ; they are
summer bloomers, and produce the flowers from the old

wood.

JACKMANNI TYPE.

In addition to those previously mentioned, we can recom-
mend : —

Star of India. Reddish-purple, with red markings.

Magnifica. Reddish-purple. Floral Magazine, page
453.

Prince of Wales. Deep purple.

Velutina purpurea. Mulberry purple.

These are free bloomers, and flower on the new wood,
and are hardy.

CLEMATIS. 443

LANUGINOSA TYPE.

Gem. Deep lavender blue.

Henreyi. Creamy white.

Madame Van Houtte. Large white.

Aureliani. Light blue.

Lawsoniana. Rosy purple.

Regince. Light blue.
William Kennett. Deep lavender.

In this class are found the finest and largest flowered
Clematis ; they are summer and autumn bloomers, flower
from the new wood. Should be moderately pruned in
spring. They are not hardy in New England.

PATENS TYPE.

Albert Victor. Deep lavender.

Fair Rosamond. Blush-white, red markings. Figured
in Florist, 1874, page 169.

Miss Bateman. White. Floral Magazine, pp. 495-96.

Standishii. Mauve.

" Stella. Deep mauve. Figured in Florist, 1874, page
169.

The Queen. Light mauve.

Mrs. S. O. Baker. French gray, claret bar.
* Lord Londesborough. Deep mauve.

444 CLEMATIS.

Lady Londesborough. Gray. Floral Magazine, pp.
495-96.

These produce flowers in early spring, on the ripened
wood. With slight winter protection, they will prove

hardy.

VITICELLA TYPE.

Hendersoni. Bluish purple.

Lady Bovell. Grayish blue. Floral Magazine, page
370.

Thomas Moore. Violet.

Mrs. James Bateman. Lavender.

These are summer and autumn bloomers, and are hardy
if lightly covered in winter.

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