, YA St Wa BEQUEST O# | PAUL J. PELZ “ ee OE PR d's Go hey bie pee oN Sh 025% K es AY EDWARD SPRACUE sal o/s one i a ae BOSTON: J.E.TILTON &CO. i BA eal Eee _ FLOWERS ‘ } FOR THE EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, JR. ee: = ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN ANDREW, AND A. C. WARREN. 2 2 > p> Sit S nul fe | 2,? % I - % : A he BOSTON: J. E. TILTON & COMPANY. | 1868. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1863. by EDWARD S. RAND, JR., In the Clerk’s Office of the District Joart of the District of Massachusetts. ey nee bs Wea 1d. i 4 : ia Sia tues _ Presswork by John Wilson and Son. an i sgl Wile ea ats ine mM Sie aaa CHAPTER Ve iT: aT. EV: ING VI. Vil. Vil. IX. CONTENTS. rE ENTRODUCTIONAY.Gihs! Sisac Bele tile. tes Se Sin. s Tur GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. . . . Winpow GARDENING. .. . PLants FoR WINDoW GARDENING. . ... . Prants FoR WinDow GARDENING — Continued. . PLants FOR WinpDow GARDENING — Continued. . PLANTS FOR Winpow GarpEntne — Continued. . Gere UMRSet ah bs tee el ee ey welt er ate) enh ee AYRE CR eS UTR ey Wik Saath eae Tay Neti lak Nemciait tet, toute Tur CuLTURE OF THE TUBE Rosse. . Tue GLADIOLUS AND ITs CULTURE. . 117 . 140 . 160 180 198 . 203 How To Force FLowERs To Broom IN WINTER. . sna: Sees IDALCONS GARDENING.) (06. <6 |e Tur WarpiIAn CasE, AND WINTER GARDEN. . SrockInc AND ManaciInc WARDIAN CASES. . . Haneinc Baskets aND SvITABLE PLANTS, AND . 263 TREATMENT OF SLVN eke ee 8 ao wos 1* (5) 213 244 XXIII. Oh XXV. XXVI. CONTENTS. THE WALTONIAN CASE. , Tue AQUARIUM AND WATER Puants. . How to Grow SPECIMEN PLANTS. . Ovt-poor GARDENING. — HoT-BEDs. Tun GARDEN. . . . . ; A SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. Harpy Hersacrous Puants. . . HARDY: ANNUATS 05/070.) (a (le lence oe een om BEDDING. PUANTS.. (see We? enna Harpy anp HaLF-HARDY GARDEN BUuLBs. Sprinc FLOWERS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM. . . 370 - 381 - ‘Neath cloistered boughs each floral bell that swingeth, And tolls its perfume on the passing air, Makes Sabbath in the fields, and ever ringeth A call to prayer. HUS sung Horace Smith, in \\; 6 a lh x) years gone by, in one of the sweetest floral poems which the English language has produced. —a verse which speaks to the heart, where its measured cadences flow in sympathy with the uprising love of Nature which springs unbidden, and sends forth its music to gladden many a rugged path of life. The love of flowers is universal: it is an old melody, (7) 8 INTRODUCTION. which, first attuned, in earliest time, in the golden age of legendary lore, has come down to us, growing more mellow and sweeter as it chimed through the centuries, and now, as then, echoed, with a music. akin to that of heaven, in the human heart. And this floral music has not been without its deep and lasting influence: little may we know of the countless paths of life which it has made brighter, and which have, long ages since, ended beneath a grassy, flower-sprinkled grave; but we see it breathing over us from the acanthus leaves of the Corinthian capital, sounding from the silence of medizval marble, and echoing, again and again, in the rich strains of deathless poesy. It is one of the links binding the present to the past, joming us in sym- pathy with those who lived long ago; and while we gather the rose, the lily, or the violet, we but renew a pledge with the olden time, and our heart beats in sym- pathy with the universal heart-beat of the human race for centuries. What volumes might be written on the history, the legends, the poetry of flowers! Yet, dear reader, pleasant, and profitable withal, as such reading might be, ours is a homelier purpose. We glean not the legends of the past, INTRODUCTION. 9 but offer you what may give promise for the future; and believing this love of flowers to be a good, an almost holy feeling, it is our wish to minister to its development. It has been said that no botanist was ever an infidel; may we not also say that no true lover of flowers can be a bad man? Phere’ is a secret influence arising from these bright gems of nature, which imperceptibly makes one holier and purer. And for this let the love of flowers be encouraged. Develop it in the mind of a child. Let him grow up sur- rounded by flowers, and be assured that, in the garden of the heart, the blossoms will unfold, and golden fruit ripen in after years. . - We have said that the love of flowers is universal: we see them alike in the dwellings of the rich and the poor; in the workman’s shop, in the window of the busy factory, peeping into the poor man’s window, and trellised round “the abode of the rich. Yet with all this love for flowers, there is very little knowledge of culture. A plant is a living being; it drinks and breathes; it is sensitive as the most delicate constitution to changes of rs ae ade ~~) OA. 10 INTRODUCTION. temperature, and extremes of cold and heat ; its tissues are as delicate as any in nature; it has wants, which must be attended to as they arise, and neglect is sure to result in disease or death. There are two extremes in plant cul- ture, as usually pursued: the plants are either starved to death or overfed; the result is the che. whether caused by neglect or kindness. We have often heard wonder expressed at the beauty of some plant grown in the poor man’s parlor—a_ beauty which those of his wealthy neighbor do not attain. The reason is simple: in the one case, the wants are well pro- vided for; in the other, they are neglected or over supplied. And here we touch the object of this little book, which is to tell, in as few and simple words as possible, what these wants are, and how they may best be attended to. A plant, or a stand of flowers, is a constant source of pleasure in a room; it is a spring of sunshine, and its silent influence makes all the household more cheerful and better. We would have flowers in. every house, for their sunny light, for their cheerful teaching, for their insensibly enno- bling influence. - “But they are so much trouble!” exclaims one. Granted, INTRODUCTION. 11 dear madam. But has your experience thus far in life b failed to teach you that all the good things of God come but. from our own exertions? Are they not the dearer to Yet again I touch my theme: I would teach you how The } _ to have the finest flowers with the least trouble. _ By no means. ‘Do they not exhale poisonous gases ?” But slightly ; and never can the few plants you would have produce enough to be hurtful. | | ‘The onal lamp burning in your bedroom will poison : the air, by abstracting its oxygen, more than a whole bay window full of plants. s There are, however, two other considerations which should not. be overlooked — the effect of powerful perfumes — from flowers, which, being, in some cases, such as tube- “roses, many orchids, &c., given off very powerfully by night, may cause headache by impregnating the air; and “the dampness, which is exhaled from plants in pots. _ What, however, can be easier than the remedy, in the former case? Simply remove the blooming plants from the room at night. pene nce 12 INTRODUCTION.. And in the latter, the dampness will hardly be percep- tible from any number of pots one would be likely to have in a single room. And yet again we propose to tell how even this may be avoided, by the growth of plants in the Wardian case — an experiment at once beautiful and interesting. We have said that plants breathed and drank; and so, — as living beings, they have many different modifications of the same organization. What is nourishment and life to some is poison and death to others. Who has not been seized, when entering some well-stocked green-house, with the desire to carry home some of the floral treasures? and who has not been perplexed what to choose? And with reason: some plants will flourish with window culture; others droop and die. Our subject, again: it is to tell you what to choose that we have taken our pen. Your neighbor, the florist, grows tuberoses to perfection ; yours are profuse in leaves, but never bloom: we will tell you the secret of culture. | | He has violets all winter, and you sigh for a green- house: it is not necessary ; he does not grow his violets in the green-house ; you may have them, as well as he. And once again: admire as we will and must the exotic INTRODUCTION. 13 beauties of our gardens and green-houses, there are floral treasures few have dreamed of. The road sides, the fields, the meadows, the river side, the woods, are teeming with them — delicate flowers, graceful grasses, filmy ferns, ra- diant lichens, and lovely mosses. Have you never gathered these? Then let us take you by the fel on some sunny day in early June, and lead you with us. Sit with us on the lap of Nature, and cull her precious but ever-renewed store, and you will find a new and unimagined pleasure, a joy as free as God’s own sun and air, the child of sunlight and vernal breezes. Did you ever think of the difference in meaning between the two verbs, to live and to exist? Did you ever think how few people dive, compared with those who exist? Did you ever think there may be a blindness far worse than loss of vision — a blindness of the spirit’s eye to the beauty which the hand of a bountiful Creator has so lavishly spread around us? And again for this I write; to tell you of that beauty, to open the eye to it; not to tell you where to find it, for it is every where on this broad earth; but, by pointing out its most strikimg features, to gradually lead you to see it all around. And from this contemplation of Nature’s beauty there 2 ——— a 14 INTRODUCTION. is but the uplifting of the eye to the footstool of the Creator. As we began, so let us end, in the soulful poem, — ‘Were I in churchless solitudes remaining, Far from all voice of teachers and divines, My soul would find, in flowers of God’s ordaining, Priests, sermons, shrines.” GLEN RIDGE, April, 1863. CHAPTER 1; THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. The Stove. — The Hot-house. — The Green-house.— The Conservatory. — The Pit. — ‘*‘ Span-roofed ’’ and “ Lean-to’’ Houses. — Exposure. — Construction and Materials. — Pitch of Roof and Cost.— Interior Ar- rangements. — Heating. — ‘‘ Lean-to’’ House. — Interior Arrangement. — A Pit.— Proper Heating Apparatus.— The Brick Stove.— The Water Boiler. — Shutters. — A Cheap Green-house. — Its Construction and Cost. — Ventilation. — The Parlor Conservatory. — Heating. — Interior Ar- (15) 16 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. rangements.— Stocking the Green-house.— Mistakes of Overstocking.— Neglected Plants. — Symmetrical Growth. — Camellias, — Daphnes.— Azaleas.— Acacias. — Fuchsias. — Climbers. — Miscellaneous Plants. — One Hundred Choice Plants. EEE ae OW shall I build a Green-house ? is the question that arises in the mind of the amateur, when the happy time arrives which permits him to indulge the dream of many years. Straightway he applies to an architect, or consults some book on horticultural buildings: the result is a glass structure, which fulfils all architectural requirements, is in good taste and of elegant appearance, and which lacks but one thing—adaptation to its purpose; that is, the healthy growing of plants. Now, why is this failure? Simply because the rules governing the growth of plants under glass were not followed; we must adapt our houses to the plants, and not expect the plants to conform to the houses. As a general rule, in building a green-house, avoid ‘‘ cheap buildings,” for, be assured, they will become dear enough Be THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. Ee in the end. Use only the best materials, and these of the most durable kind. Remember that the alternations of temperature, and the constant moisture, speedily affect the best timber, and that poor material is sure to be soon rendered useless by dampness and decay. But, as many are not able to build expensive structures, we propose to give a number of plans for buildings, of various cost. Let us first, however, thoroughly understand the sub- ject, and find out what we need. There are many glass structures, all indiscriminately called ‘‘ green-houses.” In common parlance, any glass house for the growth of plants is a green-house; but, hor- ticulturally, there are different names for structures of different forms, and adapted for different purposes. What, then, is the difference between a hot-house and a stove? a green-house and a hot-house? a conservatory and a green-house? __ A Stove is a plant house, constructed with reference to obtaining a great degree of heat, where the temperature should never fall below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, and may rise even to one hundred and twenty degrees. The atmosphere is kept moist by constant evaporation of water, 9 * 18 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. and_external air, when admitted, is tempered by passing over heated surfaces, lest the tender plant receive a chill. In this building are ard plants natives of the equator, and the Hast Indian orchids. It is often arranged so as to afford bottom heat, without which many of these plants do not succeed. : The term Hot-house, properly speaking, is synonymous with stove: it is, however, used to designate any building | in which artificial heat is used; a hot-house, or stove, being a house in which such a high temperature is maintained. A Green-house is a glass structure, where the tempera- ture ranges from forty to seventy degrees, and is calculated for the growth of those plants which will not bear the cold of our winters without injury. The term is, however, improperly and indiscriminately applied to any glass struc- ture, either with or without fire heat. 9 The term “ conservatory ’’ is used properly to designate a show house, where the temperature ranges from forty to sixty degrees, and into which plants are removed, when coming into bloom, from the other houses. It is improperly applied, however, to any glass structure in which plants and flowers are grown. The glass structures connected with parlors are also THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 19 called conservatories, and this signification of the word is generally accepted. A Fit is a structure below the surface of the ground, generally excavated six to eight feet, and covered with a glass roof. From such a structure the frost is excluded with little expense, and a great heat may be maintained. It is usually a cheap building, used for propagation, grow- ing roses, and forcing vegetables. The glass structure which will be in general request is the green-house, which is adapted forthe growth of most of our flowering plants. The same structure may be con- verted into a stove by merely increasing the power of the heating apparatus. A green house may be “‘ span-roofed” (Fig. 1), or “lean-to” (Fig. 2), Fic. 2. Fic. 1. that is, with both sides of the roof of glass, or with a back wall of brick, stone, or wood, the roof and front being glass. The former is better for the symmetrical and healthy growth of the plants, but requires powerful furnaces to maintain sufficient heat; the latter is more economical, both in structure and heating, and is sufficient to grow most of our ordinary “ green-house plants.” 20 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. A span-roofed house should run north and south, so as to receive the greatest possible amount of sun in the winter; or, if this is impossible, it will be necessary to provide close shutters for all the northern exposure. A ‘lean-to” house should run east and west, thus facing the south. Now, having selected our site, which should be sheltered from the north as much as possible, let us mark out a space, say forty feet long and twelve feet wide; around the outside of this excavate a trench, from two to four feet in depth, according to the nature of the soil (a damp, clayey soil requiring more depth than one of light, sandy consist- ency, the object being to get below the reach of the frost), and about one foot or more in width. ‘This done, fill the trench to within a foot of the top with stones; on these build a eight-inch wall of brick or stone, laid in hydraulic cement, to the height of one foot above the surface level; on this lay a heavy wooden sill, which should be of sea- soned pine, which bears exposure better than other woods. Now for the carpenter work. You will have three feet of wood work, upright, in front, all round, both sides; you will need two lights, from eaves to cap, on each side, each six feet long and three to four feet wide. That would give Que) ay 1 are i iy SS ta SII re A is, THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. yeh you ten lights, of four feet in width, on each side, for your house of forty feet. But as three feet gives us a more manageable light, it will be better to have one or two more, and make them of that width. The upper lights, on both _ sides, should slide or swing so as to afford easy ventilation ; the lower should be stationary. The upright windows of the side Fev swing out, being hinged at the top; the ends of the house should be permanently glazed, with a door in one, or, if desirable, in each end. The pitch of the roof should be forty-five degrees. Now, a house of this description could be built for about ten dollars per running foot. The glazing, of good serviceable glass, is included in this estimate, as well as hinges, ropes, and pulleys. The interior arrangement must vary according to the taste and means of the owner. If it is desired to make it a winter garden, a broad path should be laid, in gravel or cement, all round, at a distance of about two feet from the side. The centre should be a bed of rich, prepared soil, in which large plants, such as acacias, and abutilons, should be planted. All around the side, and even with.the bottom of the glass, a shelf should be built, about two feet wide, to be filled with flowering plants, in pots. Roses and other climbers should be trained up the rafters. 22 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. The heating apparatus should run under the shelf along the sides, and may be hot water, or, what is the simplest, though perhaps the most expensive, from the waste of heat, the old brick flue. A house of this kind would present somewhat this appearance. | HEED 5 ae Now, if a span-roofed house is too expensive, or we wish something simpler, let us see how easy it is to build a “‘lean-to” on the same plan. We have only to take one half of the span roof. Let us build our back wall of brick, good nine-inch work, with a suitable cap; and with a coat of paint given now and then, our green-house will last, without repairing, for many years. A “lean-to” house, built after this plan, would present somewhat the appearance of Figure A. The cost would not be far from five hundred dollars. THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 23 This might be much reduced by making the back wall of wood, instead of brick, and sheathing it inside; but it would not be so warm, and in the end would be more expensive, as it would, after a few years, require constant repairs. Most of the houses of florists who raise flowers for the market are not properly green-houses, but pits; that is, they are excavated from two to four feet below ‘the surface of the ground, and the roof laid on very low, so that a great saving of heat is effected. The dampness is congenial to the plants, which often thrive wonderfully ; but these structures, being cheaply built, soon fall to pieces. As a general rule, in all horticultural structures, every part which is to come near, or in contact with, the ground, should be of stone or brick; and, carrying this principle still farther, the less wood work we have, the better. 24 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. Could it be afforded at a reasonable price, it would be better to have the rafters of iron, as has been done in some cases. The interior of the house may be arranged in two ways, if a staging is required; the first, and, to our mind, the preferable arrangement, is, to build side shelves, as above described, and to run a long, flat table through the middle of the house, on which to place the plants, in pots. In a stove, this table is made a box, about a foot deep, which. is filled with moss, into which the plants are plunged, to the rims of the pots; the hot water pipes are carried under, or through, this box, the moss is kept constantly damp, and thus a moist bottom heat is obtained, most congenial to the growth of the plants. The second mode is by a stage of ascending shelves, conforming to the roof of the house, a flat platform on top, for larger plants, the shelves again descending on the other side. By this mode, a great number of plants may be accommodated in a small house. The former mode is to be adopted where beautiful plants are desired; the latter, where quantity is the object, rather than quality. In a lean-to house, unless it is very wide, the latter is the only method to be adopted; and if care is used not to more “4 ee THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 20 crowd the plants, and the shelves are made wide enough, and the plants are frequently turned, to prevent them from growing one-sided, very creditable specimen plants may be produced. The accompanying sketch may serve to illus- trate this mode of interior arrangement. A small stove, or forcing = house, is usually an adjunct to a conservatory ; in this the plants are brought forward, and forced into bloom, and : \ N then brought into the conser- \ IX vatory, where, in the cooler air, they will remain in per- fection a long time. It is also very useful for forcing straw- berries, and. cucumbers, or early vegetables. All parts should be of masonry, and the large bed raised in the middle should have a hollow air chamber underneath, through which the hot-air pipes should pass, and should be built up of brick. The following sketch will give an idea of a pit of this kind. The cost would vary very much with the size, and the materials used, but the best could be built for about ten dollars per running foot. 3 26 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. The heating apparatus may vary at the caprice of the owner; as these pits waste but little heat, a common brick stove will answer every purpose, and consumes but little fuel. This mode of heating is used by Mr. Rivers in all his pits and green-houses, and is thus described : — The stove is a small mass of brick work, about two feet square and three feet high; or it may be larger, if ereat heat is required, the front looking thus : — On opening the cast iron door, you see a small chamber about twelve inches square, with a grate at the bottom, on which the fire is made; the other door, 0, opens to an ash pit, of the same size, or perhaps deeper, below the fire. oh Fide alain THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. yak In this ash-pit door there is a small hole, to admit air needful for combustion. This stove is on the principle of the air-tight stove, and consumes but little fuel, a small hod full keeping the fire for twenty-four hours. The fire is surrounded by two thicknesses of brick, the inner one fire brick; thus the heat given out is gradual, and the plants are not injured, as is often the case with our iron stoves. ‘There is, of course, a small flue, running back into a chimney, to carry off the smoke. The common covering of this stove is a thick cast iron plate, c. If, however, a higher and more uniform temperature is required, an iron boiler may be added to the stove. This is cast in one piece; the pipes are of wrought iron, and screw on. It should be set directly over the fire chamber, ‘so that its bottom will be on a line with the top of the door, a, and its top is covered by the iron plate, c. As the water in this boiler becomes heated, it rises and flows through the pipe, e, which is run to one end, or quite round the house, and eee enters the boiler again near its bottom, /, as shown in the figure. e As the boiler is tight, the water foe f of course makes the circuit of the whole pipe, and keeps up a constant circulation. OE SRE aan ea a rr 28 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. In fact, the whole pipe, which rises but a few inches in its course, may be considered a boiler, the only opening to which is at the highest point of the pipe, e, that is, if the pipes run around the house at the end farthest from the boiler, where there is an opening with a small reservoir for supplying it with water. This is the simplest form of hot- water heating; it may be varied in size to any extent, and will heat any pit sufficiently. In heating green-houses, a great saving of fuel is effected by the use of wooden shutters fitted to all exposed portions of the range of glass. They may be made of rough boards, and should, while heavy enough to keep their place by their own weight, be of manageable size. They should be put on as soon as the sun leaves the house, and also on windy days and nights; some days in winter they should not be removed at all. The most difficult nights to keep a green-house warm are those when the mercury shows from twenty to thirty degrees of frost, with a violent wind sweeping over the house. The wind carries off the heat very rapidly, and it is easier to maintain a high tem- perature with the mercury twenty lage ds below zero, and no wind, than in a windy night, when the thermometer: only shows twenty degrees of frost. THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 29 But, says my impatient reader, I cannot build span- roofed houses or pits at a cost of three to four hundred dollars; yet flowers are to me a necessity ——I must have them. My carpenter has frightened me with estimates; tell me how to build a cheap house. Attention, then: Your house must be about twenty-five feet long by twelve feet wide; smaller if you choose, but you will find this will give you little enough room. Pro- cure ten stout cedar posts, the larger the better, each about eleven feet long. Set them in a line, two and one half feet apart, on the northerly line of the space marked out for your house, having previously charred them half an inch deep for at least three feet at the lower end. Set them three feet deep, and ram them well; they are the back wall of your house. Opposite each of these, and twelve feet from it, set ten cedar posts, six feet long, equally stout, charred, and set three feet deep. You have now the out- line of the house, and the inclination which will give the proper pitch to “ee roof. Board up your back wall with good pine boards, charred where they come in contact with the ground; also the three feet of front between the ground and the eaves (or, if stone is plenty, it is far better to lay up a wall in 3% 30 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. cement); shingle the back outside, and lathe and plaster, or rather back-plaster, as it is called, within. If your front is board, clapboards look better than shingles, and cost but little more. Board up and shingle the ends, leaving one or more doors, as may be desired. Sink a walk, two feet wide, through the middle of the length of the whole house, deep enough to give plenty of head room; board, stone, or brick up the sides. Your structure, thus far, is very inexpensive. Now for the rafters and glass roof. It is not, for our purpose, necessary to have sliding sashes, nicely fitted and framed, or grooved rafters; these are expensive. The roof must be one entire piece. But do you dispense with ventilation? By no means. This would be a fatal neglect, in our climate, with such a power- ful summer sun. : It is easily provided for by having boards, « and y, both front and rear, either at intervals or along the whole line, as may be needful. These are hung on hinges, so as to open 5 rt. SRE aes WS AS Me outwards, and permit a 2 fC. current of air to pass through the whole breadth of the house. THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 31 To construct the roof, form a ‘‘ plate” along the posts, front and back; to this nail the rafters, running from post to post. Into these rafters fit lighter pieces of wood, run- ning at right angles with the rafters the whole length of the house, letting the top be flush with the top of the rafter, thus, R R being the rafters, C C being the cross-pieces. Then, parallel with the rafters, along the whole length of the house, nail other lighter strips to the cross-pieces, C C, securing them at eaves and top to the plate. These strips should be grooved like a common sash bar, and laid upon the roof just far enough apart to receive the glass. Glaze with common clear glass. Paint all with fire-proof paint, and you have a green-house sufficient for all purposes, at a cost of about six dollars per foot. This cost may be indefinitely increased by using finer materials ; our estimate is for rough boards and common glass. Heat by a common stove, as above described, or by a brick flue. For this latter, however, a small cellar near one end, cov- ee LT) ae tee a ‘ § bi ett pe 32 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. ered with a bulk-head door, will be necessary for the furnace; and also a shed for storing coal, and for a potting room. ‘This may be built on behind at a trifling cost. It is also advisable to have a gutter along the eaves, to catch the water from the roof. This should communicate with a large hogshead sunk in the ground inside, and thus a supply of water, of the proper temperature, is always at hand. A structure of this sort will answer equally well for a cold grapery, or for a peach house, in which cases the plastering may be dispensed with, and the house may be battened instead of shingled, by which the cost would be somewhat reduced. A conservatory, communicating with the parlor, is a beautiful addition to a house, and is easily constructed. We live in the age of bow windows, and by lengthening one of these our conservatory is built. Let the sides and end be of glass; the sides may be stationary or sliding windows; the end, a door opening upon the lawn or garden walk. The roof should have some sliding sashes for ven- tilation. The width must be that of the bay window; the length may be according to the taste of the owner, but, to look well, should be proportioned to the width. It ey THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 33 should communicate with the parlor by glass doors, in order to prevent the dampness from entering the house. Heating should be done by a small stove, with hot-water boiler fitted as above described, the pipes to be carried round the house, and hidden by shelves for plants. The interior arrangements must vary with the taste of the owner. - Climbers, such as roses, bignonias, and passion flowers, should be planted in large tubs, or in sunken brick pits, filled with prepared soil. The stove may be hidden by a staging, or by large plants standing around it; or, if desired and convenient, the heating apparatus might be in the house cellar, and only the pipes, which could be hidden, enter the con- servatory. This conservatory may run south, east, or west; but in any case, wooden shutters, to be put up on cold and windy nights, should be provided for the sides. Double windows may be used, but the plants do not thrive so well as with single glass. And now, having built our green-house, we must stock it. Do not, however, be in haste; the green-house will fill up fast enough. Let us not run into the error of almost all amateurs, and overstock; let our aim be quality, not 34+ THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. quantity ; and, to enable us to select, let us look at other green-houses, and gain from the experience of others. Let us visit any green-house in our neighborhood, and care- fully examine the collection: in how many shall we find a dozen really beautiful specimen plants? Here and there, now and then, a fine, well-bushed, or trained, well-propor- tioned plant may be seen; but the mass are tall, long- drawn, ungainly, ugly plants, which, aside from their com- panions, possess no beauty or symmetry. How, then, do they appear so well? By grouping; each hides the defects of each, and a _ stage-full of these ugly, ill-grown plants may often present a fine appearance. But this is not the true end to be gained in floriculture; in this way we can never approximate to perfection; the evil grows year by year. : Of what plants are the collections composed? Plants from every region of the globe, all huddled together in a space not large enough generally to grow those of one country to perfection. A small house, some sixty feet long, will be found to contain a collection of camellias, which flower and grow best in a temperature not above sixty degrees ; ericas, which require about fifty degrees of heat ; azaleas, which will bear any low, dry temperature; Cape THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 35 plants, which need a different treatment from any of the above; acacias, oranges, geraniums, pelargoniums, tro- peolums, fuchsias, begonias, cyclamen, ixias, sparaxis, oxalis, .amaryllis, roses, and hundreds of other plants, dissimilar in habits and nature, all requiring a different treatment, each needing its peculiar atmosphere and tem- perature ; and often a few sickly orchids, or other stove plants, with yellow leaves and weak aspect, from want of proper heat, thrust in to fill up the spaces between the larger pots: all these are crowded into one small house. Is it strange that none ever reach perfection? that all are more or less diseased? that the flowers are poor, and the plants sickly? Can we expect it to be otherwise? None will deny the beauty of a specimen plant, let the kind be what it may; and its superiority over an ill-grown plant, let the latter be ever so rare in variety. The public eye is attracted by symmetrical beauty, and not by novelty in variety. To the common observer a well-grown speci- men of the almost forgotten fuchsia globosa is far more beautiful than some new and rare plant, which presents no symmetry of proportion. We would by no means discourage the taste for new plants; it is a healthy tendency, but may be carried too far. 36 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. If we neglect all our old favorites, or give up well-grown, valuable plants for others of unproved merit, simply because the latter are new, the passion for novelties becomes a dis- ease, and produces bad effects in practice. ‘There is in this, as in all other things, a happy medium, which alone is the safe course: either extreme will lead us into error. The passion for novelties, or any injurious effects arising therefrom, one would naturally suppose would be confined to amateurs, simply because —if for no other reason — it can only be indulged in by those whose pecuniary means are ample. But this is not the case: we find our gardeners exerting themselves to meet any demand for new, rare, and expen- sive plants, to the neglect of our old and well-tried favorites. All of us can call to mind some flowers, which, once popular, are now hardly to be found in any collection; and yet we are at a loss to give a reason. Let us look at a few cases. | We all remember a pretty little double-flowering brier, > it is an ex- which goes by the name of ‘bridal rose;’ quisite plant,—foliage very delicate, and of a peculiar living green, covering every branch; flowers snowy white, THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 3T rose-shaped, with a green centre, and studding the plant ; habit most favorable for symmetrical culture; and yet we may search in vain in our green-houses for this plant, com- bining so many desirable qualities: it is only to be found grown in old pitchers, and in the windows of the poorer classes, or in some private conservatory, where its beauties are appreciated. Another instance: Can a plant more ornamental at every season than the achenia malvaviscus be found? All the year it is studded with its scarlet blos- soms and ornamental white berries; these, contrasted with the green leaves, produce a charming effect; and yet a few | years since it was impossible to procure a plant. Latterly it has appeared in some gardeners’ catalogues ; but whether from any demand or an appreciation of its merits it is diffi- cult to say.. The writer never saw but one fine specimen of this plant, and that was a picture of beauty, over four feet in height, well bushed, covered with healthy foliage, and the end of each branch crowned with coral flowers, while the berries cemmed the whole plant, white, blush, and red. Such a plant is worth a green-house full of the trash gen- erally cultivated; and all this had been done by careful attention in a parlor, the plant never having been carried to a green-house: if this can be done in house-culture, what 4 38 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. ought we to expect from those who haye every facility for erowing plants-to advantage? Instances of this kind might be multiplied, but these must suffice. What has caused this neglect, we are at a loss to say. And another question arises: Can a remedy be found? We think it can. Let our cultivators, our garden- ers, our amateurs, estimate a plant by its real beauty, value it for its intrinsic merit, and not by the factitious standards of novelty, or dollars and cents. Suppose you have a green- house full of rare plants, but all poor, ill-grown specimens, costly, but not beautiful; your neighbor has a dozen fine specimen plants, in which Nature, assisted by all the appliances of art and care, has developed a perfection of form, a vigor of growth and foliage, a profusion of flower ; let these all be common, well-known plants — fuchsias, azaleas, even verbenas, or other soft-wooded plants: which has approached nearer the true end of floriculture; regard- ing it either as a pleasure or as a science? Surely he who develops to the best advantage the powers of Nature. But we have taken an extreme case; there may be as great beauty, and often is, in the new plants as in the old. Some of the introductions of the last few years possess beau- ties of which a short time since we never dreamed. Another THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 39 question : Are we any nearer improvement? These plants are the fashion of to-day, and we fully appreciate their beauty; but to-morrow some new taste will develop, and before our new plants, in the ordinary course of nature, have time to grow into good-sized specimens, they are out - of date, and are discarded or neglected as old-fashioned. This may seem a severe view, a harsh statement of facts, but it is literally true. | | If we look at plants with the eye of the botanist, the simplest weed becomes invested with the highest interest ; and to the botanist the rarer and newer plants are objects of special attention; but his task, or rather pleasure, differs from that of the florist: the botanist would turn away from the most beautiful double fiower ever produced, regarding it as a monstrosity. But we are not writing for botanists, — with us they are few and far between, —but for gardeners, amateurs, and florists, who esteem a plant rather for its flower, foliage, growth, and other obvious beauties, than for its structural adaptations, be they ever so curious and beautiful. 3 If our amateurs will grow fewer plants, and grow these few well, — if they will discard the mass of rubbish (for it is nothing else) which cumbers the stages of their green-houses, 40 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. and grow their plants with plenty of room, light, and air, the evil will be remedied. They profess to grow plants for their beauty, not from any profit to be derived from them; and yet with this their avowed object, their green-houses seldom present a more respectable appearance than those of gardeners who profess nothing. But it may be said, amateurs need the flowers for their own use, and therefore must grow plants to produce the most bloom. If this is so, let them grow their flowers for cutting in some green-house used for nothing else, and use their conservatories and fine plant-houses for specimen plants. | But there is a fundamental error underlying all this theory; a poorly grown plant does not produce more flowers than one grown with care as a specimen; the former may be sooner drawn into bloom, but the latter affords the greatest profusion. ; A constant cutting of the flowers will ruin a specimen plant, unless great care is taken; and this, together with the time taken to perfect the specimen, is another reason why gardeners will not grow specimens. But the plant is. the object of attraction as much as the THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 41 flower ; without it the flowers are not shown to the best advantage, and the perfection of beauty is attained when a perfectly symmetrical plant is seen, healthy in foliage, free from disease, and gemmed with a profusion of bud and blossom. ~ Let us consider a few of the plants which, now neglected, would, as specimens, be pictures of beauty. And first, the CamEeLtIa. This plant is by nature of the most symmetrical form, and with little care can be perfectly grown. Contrary to the general opinion, there 1s no plant which bears pruning better than the Camellia. Let the branches be well pruned out, so as not to interfere; the plants be stocky and well covered with foliage; the roots allowed room enough, and the soil kept sweet and rich; and the specimen is obtained. ‘The common care of remov- ing all but two flower-buds, or even one, from each shoot, with other minor cares, must not be neglected; but, above all, do not crowd your plants; let them have light and air on every side, above and below, and keep an even, low temperature: follow this plan, and you will no longer com- plain of weak plants, long-drawn, tall specimens with yel- low leaves and dropping buds; and you will be surprised at the health and vigor of your plants. From one plant thus 4 % 42, THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. cared for, you will obtain more bloom than from a dozen camellias as commonly grown. The DapHye—a lovely, always grown, but always neg- lected flower — will make a lovely specimen. Do not spare the knife, for its tendency is to long, leafless branches. You must also begin with a young plant, for to reclaim an old specimen is well nigh hopeless. In other chapters we propose to give rules for growing specimen plants; in this connection we only mention those peculiarly adapted for green-house culture. The beauty of AZALEAS as specimens cannot be too highly praised; no green-house should be without them ; yet a fine specimen is the work of years. Acacias are only seen to advantage planted out in the green-house borders; being by nature trees, they never make fine specimens in pot culture. ACHENIA MALVAVISCUS, as before observed, makes a lovely specimen, and bears pruning well. Fucustas of all kinds show to great advantage, properly erown,—except, perhaps, the white corolla varieties, which are of too weak a habit to make large plants. Oranexs bear pruning well, and grow to a large size. Ericas. We read of fine specimens, many feet in diam- THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 43 eter and well bushed. Have we ever seen a specimen erica ? Epacris. The same remarks apply. KENNEDIAS are all well adapted for specimens. Trained on balloon trellises and in full bloom, what can be prettier? _ The same may be said of ALLAMANDAS, RHYNCOSPER- mMuM, CoMBRETUM, STEPHANOTUS, and a host of other climbers. 3 CHORIZEMA VARIUM also makes a beautiful specimen _ trained in this way. All the soft-wooded climbers are superb objects, grown on large trellises, if the foliage is in good health. PELARGONIUMS and GERANIUMs, we all know, make su- perb specimens; also VERBENAS, HELIOTROPES, and other plants of the same nature. Hovzas, and plants of kindred nature, are very poor subjects for specimens; but much may be effected by care and patience. The Cape bulbs, such as Ixias, and Sparaxis, are never treated with proper care; they are forced into bloom, and then, instead of allowing the leaves to ripen well, the plants are thrust out of the way, dried off, and the only wonder is, they ever perfect any bulbs. As it is, the bulbs decrease in size year by year, and at last, being too small to bloom, are cast aside as 44 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. worthless. ‘These remarks apply to all green-house bulbs, except, perhaps, the Cyclamen. We have never seen well grown pots of Cape bulbs, except in a few instances. Will not some amateur make the growth of bulbs a specialty, and show us what can be done in this almost unexplored region of floriculture? We should say fae plored in this country. In England, much has been done, and great has been the reward. 2 Orcuips make superb specimens, but the growth is slow, and the attention needed immense. The various classes of ferns, mosses, lycopodiums, and other cryptogamous plants, can be very prettily grown. The vast class of variegated-leaved plants are pictures of beauty if properly grown, and well repay any outlay of care or expense. Even with our common herbaceous plants, or with annu- als, a very pretty effect maybe produced. Thus we have shown that the neglect is not caused by want of subjects upon which to practise. If we continue to show our green-houses filled with plants which, by their careless growth and sickly aspect, are a disgrace to us, the fault is our own. Let us give our plants the benefit of our increased knowl- THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 45 edge, — give them air, light, and room to develop their beauties — and we shall soon see that they will not be slow to avail themselves of the liberty. It will then be our care to repress undue luxuriance, or to train into proper shape the wandering branches. Above all, feed your plants well; they cannot thrive in a poor soil, or draw nourishment from the earth if you do not supply it. Again, adapt the soil to the wants, to the nature of the plant; give sand, peat, or leaf-mould, as the plant requires. Give water as the habits of the plant require, and not promiscuously. These may seem little matters, but they are vital to the plant, and a want of attention to them is sure to result in vexation and disappointment. From these hints it will be easy for the most inexperi- enced to choose what to grow; yet another word of caution may not be misplaced : — In a green-house, grow only green-house plants— in a stove, only stove plants: do not mix the two, or disap- pointment will be the result. The following list will be found useful in choosing plants for the green-house. The culture of each will be given in succeeding chapters, with the best varieties. 46 THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. Plants for a Green-House twenty-five feet long. 12 Camellia Japonica, 4 Orange Trees, 1 Mandarin Orange, 1 Lemon, 6 Daphne Odorata, Y 66 4¢ 4 Diosma Odorata, 1 “ Capitata, 4 Erica Caffra Alba (Heath), 4 Erica Caffra Rubra (Heath), 1 Cytisus Racemosa (Broom), Rubra, 6 Heliotropes, in sorts, 2 Cestrum Aurantiacum, 2 Dwarf Acacias, 1 Aloysia Citriodora Verbena), 1 Burchellia Capensis, (Lemon 1 Coronella Glauca, 2 Stevia, 2 Eupatorium Elegans, 2 Abutilon, 2 Chorizema, 1 Fabiana Imbricata, Jasminum Odoratissimum and Multiflorum, (Yellow and White Jasmine, ) 2 Kennedias, 10 Azalea Indica, 6 Fuchsias, 1 Justicia Carnea, 2 Correas, 1 Linum Trigynum, 3 Mahernias, 2 Manettias, 2 Myrtles, 1 Pittosporum Tobira, 1 Sparmannia Africana, 2 Passiflora (for rafters), 1 Olea Fragrans, 1 Tecoma Jasminoides (for rafter), 1 Thea Viridis (Green Tea), 1 Veronica Andersonii, and Roses. Add to these a few Verbenas, Cupheas, Salvias, Lobelias, Tropzeolum, Calceolarias, Geraniums, and Cinerarias, all of which soft-wooded plants can be raised from seeds or cuttings, and the green-house will be full enough if the plants are of any size. Pent ae 1 Sut SS THE GREEN-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 47 We have in this place purposely omitted to mention the many bulbs which may be grown in the green-house, preferring to treat of them in another place. Any of the above plants may be procured at any well- stocked green-house, and are mostly low priced. The whole collection, if small plants were chosen, could be furnished for about seventy-five dollars. A as i em tA OU VOC OO NV yes —— ees She is een MATIN ITT Huy I= y % — WSs CHAPRLER aii. WINDOW GARDENING. Growth of Plants. Situation and Exposure. — Heat.— Moisture. — Tem- perature of Room.— Ventilation.— Washing. — Syringing. — Watering. —Choice of Pots.— Window Flower Tables. — Window Shelves. — (48) WINDOW GARDENING. 49 Potting. — Manuring. — Soil. — Peat. — Loam. — Sand. — Leaf Mould. — — Manure. — Proportions of Each. — Insects.— Green Fly. — Mealy Bug. — Scale. — Red Spider. — Pruning. 7, O grow plants to perfection in a room is not an easy thing. To insure any : degree of success, a careful and con- stant attention to details is necessary. “~~ These details are all little things in themselves; they seem almost trivial; but fe their observance is imperative, if we would 3 have our plants in healthy foliage and profuse bloom. It is by the neglect of all, or some of these, that plants grown in rooms usually present such a diseased, unhealthy appearance. Any one of us can call to mind some friend, who, as we say, 1s always successful with flowers; has blossoms when no one else can, and whose plants are models of health and beauty. We laughingly say, the flowers are his friends; he knows them,-and they bloom for him; and so it is, in fact; he knows their peculiarities, attends to their wants, feeds them properly, affords the requisite light and air. Is it then a wonder that for him the grateful flowers put on 5 50 WINDOW GARDENING. their richest dress of green, and reach out their perfumed blossoms ? But before we give rules for growing window plants, let us look at these little things, which may come under the head of general instructions. And, first, the SITUATION. We have decided to grow window plants, and we must now choose our window. Let it, if possible, face the east or pout ; that is, be one which sees the full rays of the morning sun. If we are unfortunate enough not to have such a window, choose the one having the most sun; the afternoon sun is better than none at all. There are very few plants which will flourish without sunlight, and, as a general rule, the more we can obtain the better. If you have a bay window, looking south, you need ask nothing better. HEATING. If possible, choose a room where the temperature at night never falls below forty to forty-five degrees. Let this heat be maintained by an open fire, or by an air-tight stove, on which a large pan of water should be constantly evaporating. A furnace is injurious to plants, by reason WINDOW GARDENING. 51 of its dry heat only; the little gas escaping from our best furnaces is not sufficient to affect plants injuriously. And while speaking of gas, if possible avoid the use of gas light in the room; the unconsumed gas, always given off, is fatal to delicate plants, and hurtful to the most hardy. If you must use gas in the room, arrange glass doors to shut off your plants from the room, or give up window plants, and confine yourself to growth in Wardian cases. If a _ furnace is your only means of heating, provide for sufficient moisture by constant evaporation. Another objection to a furnace is, that it keeps the room too warm for a healthy growth of the plants. The cause of so many window plants showing long, white, leafless stalks, with a tuft of leaves on the end, is, too ae heat and too little light. Proportion the two, and you fa a short, stocky, healthy growth. In rooms, this proportion is always unequal. In winter, there are eight hours of sun to sixteen of darkness; we keep the plant at a temperature of sixty to seventy degrees all the twenty-four. In a green-house, on the contrary, the tem- perature falls to forty degrees at night, rising, by the heat of the sun, by day, to a maximum of seventy. 52 WINDOW GARDENING. VENTILATION... This must not be neglected; it is as essential to the health of the plant as to the human organization. The best method of providing it is to open the top of the window when the sun’s rays are hottest on the plants. The quantity of air to be given must be proportioned to the outside tem- perature. In cold, cloudy days, but little, and often none, should be given. Care must be taken never to allow a direct stream of cold air to blow upon any plant. WASHING. : This must be done frequently. A plant breathes like an animal, and not through one mouth, but thousands. As is well known, the plant draws up its food from the soil through the roots, in a liquid form. This food, very much diluted, must be concentrated, and thus assimilated to the plant. We have in the leaves of the plant, a most beauti- ful arrangement to answer ae need. They are filled with *< stomata,” or breathing pores, which allow exhalation when moisture is freely supplied, and check it when the supply falls off. ‘These little mouths are found on both sides of the leaf in most plants, but usually on the lower side in by far the greater number. They vary in different plants from WINDOW GARDENING. 53 several hundred to more than one hundred and fifty thou- sand to a square inch of leaf. Now we are careful in our own persons to bathe daily, lest, as we say, the pores of the skin become obstructed; yet we are willing to allow our plants to go unwashed for a whole winter, when the pores are much smaller, more numerous and delicate, than those of the body. ‘The rule is obvious: wash the leaves of the plants, both under and upper sides, at least once a week ; if oftener, the tee Use water moderately warm, and if the plants become very dirty, a little weak soap-suds is beneficial. This washing should be carefully done with a _ soft sponge or cloth in the case of plants with thick, pol- ished leaves, such as camellias, oranges, and daphnes, Where plants have hairy leaves, or the substance is soft, water is best applied with a small syringe, fitted with a very fine “rose.” To use this, place the plant on its side in the kitchen sink, syringe it well, turning it from side to side. Let it stand a few minutes for the water to drain off, and return it to its place: it will thank you for its bath by its bright foliage, Never wet the flowers of a plant; water always injures them; nor allow drops of water to stand on any leaves in the sunshine: the rays of the sun form a focus in the drop of water and scorch the leaf. Once a 5 * 54 WINDOW GARDENING. month, at least, wash the stem and branches of all the hard- . wooded plants with a soft sponge dipped in lukewarm water; this prevents the lodgment of insects, and con- tributes to the health of the plant. WATERING Is one of the most difficult subjects to prescribe by rule, yet there are some rules of general application. Let it be always done with a watering-pot with a fine rose, such as may be procured at any tinman’s. ‘The advantage of this is, it allows the water to fall drop by drop over the whole surface of the soil, whereas, if a pitcher is used, the plants are deluged, or holes made in the earth by the stream of water, and the roots not unfrequently dis- turbed. Let it be done regularly; the morning is the best time, and once a day. ‘The surface of the soil should never be allowed to become perfectly dry, nor should it be sodden with moisture. The temperature of the water used is of vital importance. It should neither be cold nor warm, but just the temperature of the atmosphere of the room. ‘Thus no check, or chill, or undue excitement is given to the roots, both roots and branches being equally warm. errr WINDOW GARDENING. 55 A good plan is, to set over night a large pan of water among your flowers, then you will be sure of a sufficiency of water of the proper temperature for the morning water- ing. If this is too much trouble, remember in watering, it is better to have the water too warm than too cold, that is, of a higher rather than a lower temperature than the roots and branches. Now as to the quantity of water. No rule of universal application can be prescribed. What is life to one class of plants is death to another. The amount of water necessary to make a calla lily thrive would kill a cactus or a heath, and yet the drought necessary for the cactus would be death to the heath. A good rule, however, is never to allow the soil to become dusty or muddy, and with drainage in potting the latter is easily prevented; by regular waterings, the for- mer. Particulars of treatment for different plants will be given when treating of each plant. Never allow water to stand in the saucers of the pots unless the plants are semi-aquatic. Ons. Choose the common flower-pots, selecting those which are light colored rather than those which are brick red; .the 56 WINDOW GARDENING. former are soft baked and are more porous; in these, the plants thrive better. Discard all glazed, china, glass, or fancy painted pots; they are not porous, and plants seldom thrive in them. There is nothing neater than the common earthen pot, if kept clean. If, however, something more ornamental is desired, choose some of the fancy pots, — and some are very pretty and artistic in design,—and let them be large enough to set the common pot inside. But there is a very pretty way of fitting up a window which is but little practised; it is, in fact, making the win- dow a flower garden. Build from your window into the room a rounding wooden shelf, say, if the window is large, three feet in diameter from window to outer edge, but at any rate proportioned to the size of the window. On this, place a large box, wood, or earthen ware unglazed, made to conform to the shelf, and in this put your plants, the taller at the back, the smaller in front, and on each side a climber to run over the top of the window, on a neat wire trellis or on strings. It is desirable to have holes in the bottom of the box to allow superflous water to escape, and to permit this, the shelf should be covered with zinc, which is preferable to WINDOW GARDENING. 5 Vt tin, as it does not rust, and have a low rim all around it, with a little hole to drain off the superfluous water running from the boxes. This is a very pretty way of window gar- dening, but is only to be practised in a very light room; for in a room with but one window, the plants would all grow to the light, and being planted out, they could not be turned as if in pots. A pretty way to grow low plants, bulbs, and - to fit a box, say eighteen inches wide, and as long as the window, into the window, and then place the taller plants behind in pots. This box could be turned as occasion required, or as the plants grew towards the light, or could even be removed from window to window. PoTtTING. But a few words are necessary. Always fill the lower inch of the pot with broken potsherds to secure drainage. In filling the soil around the plants, press it in firmly and establish the plant well. There is no advantage in loose potting. In re-potting, pare off as much of the old, sour soil as possible, being careful not to injure the roots, and place the ball of the plant in the centre of the new pot, filling in all around with fresh soil. As a general rule, plants need 58 WINDOW GARDENING. re-potting whenever the roots begin to curl round the inside of the pot, or as gardeners say, ‘‘ touch the pot.” This is easily ascertained by turning the pot down, striking the rim gently against some object by a quick rap, holding the ball of earth and the plant on the palm of the other hand. The plant may thus be taken from the pot and examined, returned again, settled by a smart stroke of the bottom of the pot on the table, and will be none the worse for the inspection. This is also a good way to detect worms in pots, they generally living near the outside of the ball. The operation must, however, be quickly done, or the worm will be too nimble and withdraw into the interior of the ball. | Stirring the surface of the soil is very beneficial, especially for roses, if the roots are not thereby injured. Top dressing is also productive of good effects, particularly with old plants in heavy pots and tubs. It is simply removing the top soil as far down as the upper roots, and refilling the pot with fresh, light, rich soil. ManurINe Is not generally needed in pot plants. A mixture of pow- dered or small bits of charcoal in the soil adds a deeper lus- tre to the green of the foliage and brilliancy to the color of Poe ee WINDOW GARDENING. 59 the flowers. Bone shavings produce the same effect on hyacinths. Liquid manure should be sparingly used, and then very weak. If guano, a tea-spoonful to a quart of water applied once a week. Liquid stable manure in about the same proportion, applied as seldom. SoIt. In potting window plants rich soil should generally be used. The different kinds of soil are, — ; Peat, which is black earth or decomposed vegetable fibre, usually taken from meadows or damp woods. Ifa mixture of white sand is with it, it becomes more valuable. Loam, our common garden soil. It may be black or light brown. The best is obtained by taking the turf of old pastures and letting it lay till it all crumbles. Sand, common, or “silver,” such as used by glass makers. It should be free from salt. White beach sand may be freshened by frequent washings. Leaf mould, the decomposed leaves, being the top soil in old woods. 60 WINDOW GARDENING. Manure, the material of an old hot-bed, well rotted and entirely decomposed; the older the better. From these Fe earths all the soil for green-house opera- tions is compounded. In treating of each plant hereafter we will give its con- genial soil. As a general soil for potting plants, we would say two parts leaf mould, one part manure, one half part loam, one half part peat, one part sand. INSECTS. The only ones troubling house plants are, the green fly, the mealy bug, the scale, and the red spider. Green fly is to be killed by a smoking with tobacco. Put the plant under a barrel with smoking tobacco; let it remain, say fifteen minutes; then give it a syringing. Mealy bug is to be searched for and destroyed. Fre- quent spongings do much to keep down this pest. Scale is to be treated in the same way. Warm soap-suds are peculiarly distasteful to the creature. Red spider, which is seldom found on house plants, is nourished by a dry, warm atmosphere. Water is certain death. Keep the foliage syringed and atmosphere moist, and you will have no red spider. PRUNING SIs b little required. Should a branch grow out of place nel t should be neatly cut off; anda judicious pinching ga panes the ae of a ai More will be saa ag, Be RATA WU jj \ Nii), gS ee 1 es 2 a "LL teach thee miracles! Walk on this heath, Hil And say to the neglected flower, ‘‘ Look up, “2 = : \ And be thou beautiful!” If thou hast faith, — aN It will obey thy word. CHAP TE Rigi ihe PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. THE CAMELLIA: History. — Culture. — Soil. — Temperature. — Potting. — Pruning. — Selection of Varieties. ORANGE AND LEMON TREES: Culture. — Growth. — Blooming. — Varieties. — Seedlings. — Budding. THE DAPHNE: Pruning. — Potting. — Varieties. — Soil. THE AZALEA: (62) PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 63 Description. — Potting. — Culture.— Pruning. — Varieties. THE HEATH: History. — Soil.— Drainage. — Watering. — Hard and Soft Wooded. — Temperature. — Summer Culture. — Re-potting. — Insects. — Rooting Plants. — Varieties. THE CYCLAMEN: Potting. — Soil. — Growth. — Seedlings. — Varieties. N the selection of our plants, we must be much influenced by the extent and loca- tion of our accommodations. Some plants thrive with less heat and light than others. As a general rule, choose only green-house plants, avoiding any usually catalogued by nurserymen as stove plants. Discard ferns and lycopodia. With but few exceptions, these perish in the hot, dry, dusty air of our rooms. The Wardian case is their proper place. Remember it is better to grow one plant well than two badly. Because you have roses, geraniums, and daphnes, which do well, it is no reason you should also grow verbenas, fuchsias, and azaleas; your space is suffi- cient for the first three only; then be content, and do not crowd your plants. Now let us first give in detail, with their treatment, a list of plants suitable for window gardening; then select those for peculiar exposures. 64 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. THE CAMELLIA The camellia is a native of China or J apan, from whence it was introduced to British gardens about the year 1739. The name was given in honor of Father Kamel, a Mora- — vian priest, whose name, Latinized, became Camellus. The plants first introduced were fairly killed by kind- ness; an error not unfrequently repeated in our day with newly-discovered plants. They were planted in a stove, where the extreme heat soon dried the leaves and parched the plant. We find no further mention of the plant till 1792, when the single red variety (Camellia Japonica) was introduced, and flowered profusely in a common green- house; during the next year many plants of this variety were obtained from China; next we find mention of the double red; soon after, the fringed double white, and many varieties too numerous to mention. Strange to say, the , single white was not imported till about the year 1820, and even now it is not common, though a showy and free- blooming variety. : The camellia, in its native country, is a shrub or small tree, though Mr. Fortune mentions specimens of the single red as sometimes exceeding twenty feet in height, with PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 65 trunks of proportionate size. This variety is almost hardy, and in the Middle States will often endure the: winter; we have known it to survive even our climate, when well protected ; all other varieties are more tender, and few will bear any severe frost without injury. Most of the kinds in our green-houses are derived from Camellia Japonica, though other varieties have, we believe, afforded fine seedlings. CULTURE. The plants should be grown in light loam, or sandy peat and loam, say three parts loam, two parts leaf mould, one part sandy peat; fill the pots one third full of potsherds, to secure drainage, which is indispensable; if the roots of the plant become sodden, particularly during the season of rest, the health of the plant is gone, and years of care may fail to restore its beauty, or remedy the evil caused by a little carelessness in watering. When in a growing state, you can hardly give too much water, and much good may be derived from frequent sprinklings or syringings; this operation, however, must never be performed in sunny weather. One chief care in the culture of camellias is to keep them perfectly clean; dust upon the foliage not only injures the beauty of the plant, but affects its health. The 6 * 66 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. plants are injured by too much heat; some hold that no artificial -heat should be afforded, unless necessary to keep off the frost; but as we wish our camellias to bloom at a season when there is but little else to ornament the green- house, it is advisable to force them moderately. A safe rule is, never to allow the temperature to fail below forty degrees at night, or rise above sixty-five or seventy degrees during the day. The plants will thus expand the flowers more slowly and naturally, and there will be no complaint of dropping buds, imperfect flowers, and yellow, sickly foliage. One prime mistake in sine. culture is the little attention paid to uniformity of tempera- ture; a plant can no more preserve a healthy state when exposed to an atmosphere varying from thirty to one hun- dred degrees in a few hours, now dry and now surcharged with moisture, than can an animal. The progress of dis- ease may be more gradual, but it is sure to show itself, and, sooner or later, the death of the plant is the result. The plants, when in bloom, should be shaded, as thus the flowers remain in perfection much longer. Give the plants plenty of air at all times, but during the season of growth protect them from chilling draughts, which would cause the young leaves to curl and stunt the plant. During the PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 67 summer, the plants should be placed in a shady, airy situation, out of doors; allow room enough between the plants for free circulation of air; the practice of setting the plants in a mass, under trees, is most objectionable ; in the first place, the drip from the branches overhead is injurious, and again, the pots become filled with earth- worms, which are often difficult to dislodge. Another mistake in the culture of camellias is too fre- quently re-potting; while the plant should not be allowed to become pot-bound, too much room should not be afforded; a vigorous plant will not require re-potting ewer than every three years; on this point there is, however, some difference of opinion. It is a popular error that the wood of a camellia should not be cut; on the contrary, there is scarcely a hard-wooded plant that bears the knife better ; the plant is by nature symmetrical in growth, and, by judicious pruning, perfect specimens may easily be obtained. Pruning should. be done after blooming, just as the plants Sea their growth. Not more than one flower bud should be allowed aa each terminal shoot, if size and perfection of flower ar2 required; remove all others before the buds begin to swell; if delayed longer, little advantage is gained. 68 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. The florists’ varieties of the camellia are too numerous to mention; the principal colors are red, white, and rose, with all the intermediate shades. ‘The Chinese profess to possess a yellow variety, but we believe it has never been imported; we have seen a variety named ‘ yellow,” the flowers being semi-double, and of a dirty white color. The following are all well-proved kinds, and may easily be procured of any nurseryman. In buying plants, select those of shrubby form, dark green foliage, without any places where leaves have been dropped; look well to see that the plant is free from scale, red spider, or mealy bug; if possible, examine the roots, to ascertain if they are in a healthy state. White. Alba plena, Candidissima, Myrtifolia alba, Imbricata alba, Fimbriata, and Oleifera. Rose, Rosy Pink, or Carmine. Saccoi, Henri Favre, Imbricata rubra, _ Marchioness of Exeter, Binneyii, Fultonii, Fordii, Floyii, Jeffersonii, Landrethii, Myrtifolia, Prattii, Wilderii. Blush. Tady Hume’s blush, Towne’s blush, Pomponia. White, striped with Red or Rose. Feastii, Eclipse, Duchess of Or- leans, Mrs. Abby Wilder. . Red, striped or marked with White. Carswelliana, Chandleri, Donck- elaarii, Queen Victoria, Elegans, Elphingstonia. Crimson. Bealii, Elata, Eximia, Lowii, Palmer’s perfection, Sarah Frost, Wardii. For Seedlings. Waratah, or Anemoneflora, Tricolor, Donckelaarii, Simplex alba, Carnea. yas pure Er aoe: Mee ai ae alia PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 69 Could we have but one camellia, we would choose Double white or Candidissima, for white; for blush, Lady Hume’s blush; for crimson, Sarah Frost. All these are peculiarly adapted for the window. ORANGE AND LEMON TREES. These are favorites for parlor culture, and easily grown. Their treatment is almost identical with that required for the camellia: the same soil, the same temperature, and the same general treatment will produce success in the culture of both. But they are by no means so clean plants as the camellia, being very subject to scale and mealy bug. The only remedy is constant washing, both of the stem and leaves, with a weak soap-suds warm, and applied with a soft cloth. Grown in large tubs they do well in a parlor if kept suffi- ciently cool, and in summer succeed well out of doors. They are thirsty plants and require much water: good drainage is essential. From December to March they will make but little growth; then water moderately. About the first of March growth begins, succeeded by bloom; then give more water. After the young growth becomes hard- ened, they may be set out of doors if the weather is favor- 70 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. able. A violent wind disfigures the foliage. The young _ fruit will set in April and May, and will continue green all summer, coloring the next spring, and holding on the tree a long time. At the first approach of frost, the plants should be removed to their winter quarters. The lemon does not bloom and fruit as early as the orange, and is of taller growth and less fitted for the parlor: the blossoms are smaller and purplish outside. The little dwarf ‘‘ Otaheite orange” is a very common variety, and is always noticeable for its profusion of fruit. The flowers are not as fine as the other kinds, though plen- tifully produced. ‘The fruit is sweet, but without flavor. The Mandarin orange is one of the finest species (dwarf), and producing an abundance of fruit of the most exquisite flavor. Unfortunately it is not common. There are many other larger growing species, all of which produce a profusion of white flowers, exquisitely fragrant. Among these, the myrtle leaved is conspicuous for its shining foliage, and the large shaddock for its enormous white flowers. The former is as symmetrical in its growth as the latter is tall and ungainly. Oranges and lemons raised from seed must attain a large size before they will bloom. The better plan is to graft or PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. tf rather bud the seedling when about a year old. This operation is simple, but is best performed in a green-house, and it is therefore better to employ some neighboring florist to do it. Any variety may be budded on a common seed- ling stock. Oranges and lemons will live under neglect, but to grow and flower them to perfection, attention to details, espe- cially of cleanliness, is indispensable. THE DAPHNE. This plant, of which the varieties are numerous, never receives the care and attention its beauty merits. Every green-house contains plants of the well-known Daphne odorata, sometimes called D. Indica and vulgarly known as “Daphne odora.” It is to this plant we intend more particularly to confine our attention. It is a green-house evergreen shrub, attaining the height of about four feet, remarkable for its long, dark, glossy, green leaves, and its terminal bunches of fragrant, white flowers. It is one of the few old-fashioned plants which the modern rage for novelties has not driven entirely out of cultivation. It has only been thrust into the corners, and left to make its merits known by its beauty and fragrance. 72 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. It is one of our most popular flowers, and as a window plant is unsurpassed, flourishing and blooming in situations where most plants would dwindle and die. With gardeners it is no favorite, because, as they say, it is too straggling, and does not forma neat plant. In some respects this assertion is true, for it is impossible to bring into good shape a plant of this variety when once neglected; but by beginning with a young, healthy plant, much may be done, and fine specimens formed. Let it be remembered that the daphne “breaks” easily. Prune the plant to a bare stump, and in a few weeks buds will start from all the younger wood; therefore prune severely ; never allow a branch to remain where it is not wanted; let it be as vigorous or luxuriant as it may, and never be afraid of pruning for fear of losing the flowers. The cultivation of the green-house varieties of this plant is almost identical with that of the camellia; the same tem- perature will do for both. | The plants should have plenty of pot room, and the pots be well drained. Potting should generally be done in the fall, about the time the plants are housed, when as much of the old soil should be removed as possible without disturbing the roots. eT ree SOP Reem e n ehe aT, ye PoP eee me WA Depa PAM Oy meen! | eEE a - v c * : By i 1, is i . ror Pee 5 he * paler , PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING... 13 The principal varieties are :— Daphne odorata, the most valuable variety from its sea- son of flowering, which is from December to March, accord- ing to the degree of heat given; leaves oblong, lanceolate, smooth; flowers white or pinkish, in terminal heads, pro- duced in great profusion. Introduced from China about A.D.1770. Propagated by cuttings with great ease. It is one of the best parlor plants we know of, and may be obtained at any green-house at a very trifling expense. D. odorata rubra is a superior, and by no means common variety ; buds, red; flowers, rosy red, with a powerful spicy fragrance. It is a somewhat stronger grower than the last. There is also a variety with variegated foliage, which is no less desirable, though rather scarce. : Daphne hybrida is a pretty evergreen shrub, hardy in England, but too tender to endure our winters without protection; flowers purple, produced in terminal heads and in lateral bunches very freely, and possessing an agreeable fragrance. It blooms at all seasons of the year, but espe- cially from January to April. The soil should be four parts loam, two of leaf mould, and one of sand. 7 TA PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. THE AZALEA. The Azalea Indica, or Chinese Azalea, is of Asiatic origin. The varieties are innumerable; but the most common and longest known variety is that from which others are but hybrids, Azalea Indica. It is a strong growing plant, with long, coarse, evergreen leaves, producing in clusters of three or more, at the end of the branches red flowers marked with dark spots. This plant may be grown in great perfection, and, as well as all the varieties, is admirably adapted for a window plant. The habit is shrubby, and the flowers are produced in great profusion. A. Indica alba has white flowers, and is a fine old variety. A. Indica purpurea is a variety with blossoms of alight purple color; a profuse bloomer, and of rapid growth. There is also a double variety. A. Indica coccinea is bright scarlet. From these all the fine varieties of the green-houses have been produced. Te grow the plants in perfection good drainage is essen- tial. Fill the pot one quarter full of broken potsherds, then fill the soil to within half an inch of the top; soil, a dark peat three parts, one part of loam, one half part of silver sand. Or PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. “I Frequent re-potting conduces to the health of the plants. As a general rule, re-pot when the roots run amorg the crocks at the bottom of the pot. Do not sift the soil; break it into small pieces. Frequent syringing is beneficial, but over-watering must be carefully avoided. Give full sunshine to the plant, but lay a little moss over the pot if the sun is very hot, to pro- tect the roots. Keep the plant about the temperature prescribed for _ camellias. As soon as the flowers fall growth begins. Give plenty of air and sun, for on this growth depends the bloom of the next year. It should be short, close, and the flower buds be set at the end of each branch. Set the plants out of doors in the summer, as prescribed for camellias. ; Azaleas may be pruned into any shape. This operation should be performed after the flowers have dropped, or after the plant has made its season’s growth. The Azalea is subject to rottenness of the roots, produced by a sodden soil, the effect of over-watering. The remedy is simple: re-pot the plant, and water moderately. Exces- sive dryness, the other extreme, produces yellow leaves and a general unhealthy appearance. T6 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. The following varieties are of proved excellence, and very distinct. All will succeed in the house. Azalea amena, a lovely variety; flowers double purple; produced in great profusion in midwinter. Indica lateritia, salmon; Danielsvana, bright red ; Per- reyana, scarlet; Murreyana, rose; Indica alba, white; — Purpurea, purple; Coccinea, red. Iveryana, pink and white ; Variegata, rose and white; Gledstanesii, white, striped with red. | This list might be increased an hundred fold. THE ERICA. HEATH. All the plants belonging to this genus are of a low, shrub- by habit, with fine acicular foliage. None are natives of America. The fine varieties of our green-houses, with the exception of ‘the common Erica Mediterranea, are natives of the Cape of Good Hope, whence the gardener’s term, “‘ Cape Heaths.” : The erica will not thrive unless the soil is adapted to its peculiar nature; this is often very difficult to learn, and experience must sometimes. be the teacher. The soil to obtain is one of a friable nature, full of vegetable fibre. We find in an old magazine the best directions we remem- PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. yoy _ ber to have met in regard to choice of soil. We give them entire for the benefit of our readers : — ‘Heaths, like the azalea and rhododendron, make very small, hair-like roots; and where these latter are growing naturally, will be found a good locality to collect soil for the artificial cultivation of the. former. This soil will be found full of decaying organic matter. Take up a handful of it, and you will find a mass of thickly grown, fine fibre, feeling like a bunch of moss. Examine it, and you will see that it is chiefly composed of a black debris of leaves and sticks, thickly interwoven with the roots of surrounding vegetation. An inch or two only of the surface should be taken; all below that is generally inferior, the organic matter in it being too much decomposed. ae Where this deposit cannot be obtained, a good substitute will be found in turves from old pasture, cut thin, collected in dry weather, and piled in a heap two or three months before using, so that the vegetation in it may be slightly decomposed. Both in its chemical and mechanical prop- erties such a soil is nearly all that can be wished. In pre- paring it, however, it is better to chop it up rather fine, securing a proper mechanical texture by the admixture of coarse sand, broken charcoal, or even a few pebbles, or 7% 18 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. broken potsherds may be used to advantage for keeping the soil open, to allow free admission for atmospheric gases ; an essential point to be kept in view in the cultivation of all plants, more particularly those in pots, for they are then entirely dependent on the cultivator for those conditions which they receive in their natural habitats. ‘Such a soil as here recommended, kept sufficiently open by any of the above mentioned ingredients, is easily pene- trated by air, thereby increasing its temperature and facili- tating the decomposition of organic matter, during which process various healthful gases are supplied to plants.” In either of the kinds of soil prepared as directed, heaths will do well. The great point to obtain is a loose, porous soil; for this reason the soil should always be broken, never sifted. Another requisite in heath culture, is good drainage; this cannot be too strongly insisted upon; with the best of soil, the plants will suffer if water stagnates around the roots. | | Fill the pot one fourth full of crocks, and be careful the hole at the bottom is kept open. Never place the pot in a saucer or vessel of any kind, for all water not absorbed must be allowed to drain off. The pots should be clean PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. iS and free from mould or dirt; cleanliness is a point too much neglected. In some sections of our country, much difficulty is expe- rienced in growing heaths; the water containing salts in ‘solution which are fatal to the plant, and we know nursery- men who have altogether abandoned their culture. This seems the case in limestone countries, and we have noticed that heaths, of the tender varieties, when watered with ‘‘hard” water, grew sickly and soon died. ‘The best plan is to use only rain water, and pursuing this course no diffi- ‘culty will be experienced. It is a curious fact, that in its native countries, the heath is never found in a soil of which the substratum is lime or chalk. In England, heaths are always grown apart from other plants; with us they occupy the coolest part of the green-house. As a general rule, nothing short of frost is too cold for them, and some varieties will bear several degrees of frost without injury. In the wild state, they are distributed over a vast range of country, which accounts for the different temperatures the varieties require; the degree of cold adapted to each, must be the lesson of experience. Among gardeners, heaths are termed hard-wooded or soft-wooded; the former make only a short growth each season, for example, . Cavendeshi ; 80 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. the latter grow a foot or more, as EH. Caffra and others. The two kinds require somewhat different treatment; the former being far more difficult to manage; they are, how- ever, far more beautiful, some even dazzling from the bril- liancy of their flowers. Heaths require plenty of air. If crowded, they are subject to mildew; a disease much more easily prevented than cured. Air should be given, if pos- sible, every day; but cold draughts should be avoided dur- ing the growing season. Though heaths are often lost during the winter by grow- ing them in too high a temperature, yet the greatest mor- tality is caused by the heat of summer. With many it is the custom to treat the plants as other hard-wooded plants ; to turn them out doors during the summer, under the shade of some tree. The consequence is, the pots are often exposed to the hot sun, the tender fibrous roots become parched, and the plant dies; or else the drip from the trees rots the roots, producing the like result. Our experience has shown the best plan to be a different treatment for the plants according to their age. Early in June, all young plants should be planted out in a bed with a northern exposure; there they will TOW luxuriantly during the sum- mer. Before the September frosts, re-pot them with care, PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 81 and winter as old plants. We have found a large bed pre- pared for rhododendrons and azaleas the most favorable place. It is sheltered from the south by a belt of white pines. The soil of prepared peat is suited to the wants of the plant, while the large foliage of the rhododendrons keeps the soil moist by preventing rapid evaporation. For the older plants, we choose a shaded spot, and prepare a bed of coal ashes ; slope the bottom to carry off superfluous moisture ; plunge the pots in the bed of ashes, and if the bed is exposed to the sun for any length of time, shade by an awning. Be careful not to crowd the plants; a free circu- lation of air is essential. By this mode, the pots are never exposed to the rays of the sun; the plants receive plenty of light without being burned, and by syringing at evening, and sprinkling (not pouring) water upon the pots and bed, a sufficiency of moisture is secured. Some varieties of the soft-wooded class, such as Caffra rubra and alba, Margari- tacea, and others, do best planted out in the full sunshine. The growth becomes short and stout, and the plants are more hardy and less liable to injury. By this course, how- ever, all beauty of foliage is lost, for the plants become of a rusty brown color, which never disappears till the leaves fall. Re-potting should be done whenever the roots become 82 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. matted or collected at the bottom or sides of the pot; examine to see if they are healthy; if so, give them a larger pot; if not, prune off those which are dead, remove the old soil, and pot in the same size, or smaller, as the case may require. The custom with gardeners is to pot heaths in the spring, but the grower must be guided by the state of the plant. Insects give but little trouble, where proper regard is paid to the plants. Mealy-bug is sometimes found; the best course to pur- sue, if the plant is badly infested, is to throw it away, for it is almost impossible to remove the insect; if but slightly affected, pick them off, and wash the plant well with warm soap-suds; whale oil soap is preferable. The same rules apply when the plants are troubled with black or brown scale. Hrica arborea is particularly subject to attacks of the former, and from the fine, close nature of its foliage, if is very difficult to clean. © | We have never eae our heaths to be troubled by red spider or by aphis. In growing ericas, some attention must be paid to prun- ing, or rather to pinching; the plants should never be allowed to grow tall and spindling; they should be grown Peak i ae a ery Ci Ae PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 83 near the glass, and, by frequent turning, prevented from becoming one-sided. Some varieties are of symmetrical form by nature; others require much care to control the too luxuriant branches. Heaths strike freely from cuttings. Take the tops of the young shoots, about an inch in length; prepare a pot or pan of heath soil; cover this with silver sand to the depth of half an inch ; insert the cuttings about half their length, as thickly as you please; cover them with a glass, and frequently wipe the moisture from the inner surface of the glass; keep them slightly moist, and shelter from the direct rays of the sun. When rooted, pot off the cuttings into small pots filled with heath soil, with the addition of a little more sand than is used for the old plants; as soon as the season permits, plant them out to make growth. In re-potting plants or cuttings, care should be taken never to sink the crown of the root lower than it was before; rather raise than sink it. There is no plant which makes a greater show, or proves more attractive as a specimen, than the erica. In England, it is grown in the greatest perfection, some of the plants being twelve feet high, and eight feet in thickness. Cana 84 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. more superb object than such a plant be imagined, when in full bloom? From over five hundred varieties, we cannot be expected to give all that are deserving of cultivation; as before remarked, none are destitute of beauty. The periods of bloom are from January to November; indeed, we may have heaths in bloom every month in the year. The fol- lowing list contains a select variety in colors : — White or Light-Flowered. Arborea, Margaritacea, Grandinosa, Bow- eana, Jasminiflora, Conferta, Vestita alba, Odorata, Ventricosa, Pellu- cida, Wilmoriana, Caffra alba. Red Flowers. Gracilis, Ignescens, Mediterranea, Caffra rubra. Scarlet or Crimson. Ardens, Cerinthoides, Hartnelli, Splendens, Coccinea, Vestita fulgida, Tricolor. Purple Flowers. Amcna, Mammosa, Melanthera mutabilis, Pro- pendens tubiflora. Lilac. Baccans, Suavolens. Yellow. Cavendishii, Depressa, Denticulata. Green-Flowered. Gelida, Veridiflora, Viridis. For window culture, the varieties succeeding best are Caffra rubra and alba, Margaritacea, Arborea, and Medi- terranea. We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant, because it is a general favorite, yet never seen in good condition in the parlor. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 85 The plant is very hardy, yet impatient of the least neg- lect. A single day’s omission to water, or a drenching, with poor drainage, will kill the plant; yet it will lan- guish for months, and all your care will fail to restore it. If the hair-like roots once become parched or sodden, the plant will die. We do not recommend it for a window plant, yet its beauty is worth all the care required; and will not some be fired by ambition to make the heath a window plant? THE CYCLAMEN. This pretty flower is too little known. It is a native of Europe and Asia, some varieties being very abundant in Switzerland and Italy, and is to be found in almost every green-house. It is of the easiest culture. Pot about the latter part of November, in a rich loam, with a dash of silver sand; an addition of about a spoonful of the old soot from a flue will increase the size and brilliancy of the flowers. It must be well incorporated with the soil. Bits of charcoal, broken fine, serve the same purpose. Place the crown of the bulb just above the surface of the soil. The size of the pot must be determined by the size of the _ bulb; as a general rule, cyclamen do not require large pots. 8 86 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. Good drainage is indispensable. Keep the plants cool till the leaves are well grown, always keeping them near the glass. When the flower buds begin to rise on the foot stalks, remove .to a sunny shelf, where they will soon show bloom. By shading, the duration of the flowers is prolonged. When the bloom is past, gradually withhold water; the leaves will turn yellow, and the plants should be kept dry, in a state of rest, all summer. Do not allow the plants to ripen seed (which they do freely) unless you desire seedlings, to increase your stock. The seed germi- nates easily, sown in rich loam, and seedlings bloom the third year. Some find difficulty in preventing the shrivel- ling of the bulbs during the summer. Our best cultivators, to prevent this, bury the bulbs during the summer in the open border; take them up about the middle of September, when they are found fresh, plump, and in good condition for a start. There is one risk, however, in this method: mice are coy fond of the bulbs, and sometimes commit great havoc. There is shown in this plant a curious pro- sigina of Nature: no sooner has the flower faded, than the stem begins to curl up, and buries the seed capsule in the ground, at the root of the plant; this is designed to pro- tect the seed from birds, and to sow it in a congenial soil. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 8T Good-sized, blooming bulbs may be obtained at any green-house, for from fifty cents to one dollar each for the more common varieties. This bulb is particularly adapted for window culture, and will give more flowers, with less trouble, and occupying less space, than any flower we are acquainted with. The more common varieties are C. Per- sicum, white, tipped with rich, rosy purple; C. Persicum album, ae white ; C. punctatum, resembling Persicum. All these flower from January to March. C. Europeum, pinkish purple; C. Huropceuwm album, pure white; C. hederafolium, very large, rosy purple, a splendid variety. All these bloom from October to January. Bright gems of earth, in which perehance we see What Eden was, what Paradise may be. CAL AUR IAE. Rea LV: PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. THE GERANIUM. THE PELARGONIUM: History.— Culture. — Soil. — Pot- ting. — Winter Treatment. — Varicties. THE VERBENA: History. — Culture. — Cuttings. — Summer Culture. — Potting for Winter.— Wa- tering. — Soil. — Seedlings. — Properties of a good Verbena. — Window Culture. — Varicties. THe HELIOTROPE: History. — Culture. — Prun- ine. — Varieties. THE SALVIA, OR MEXICAN SAGE: Summer Culture, (88) PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 89 —Winter Culture.— Varieties. THE TROPXZOLUM, OR NASTURTIUM: Varieties. — Soil. — Culture. — Varieties of the small Nasturtium.— Win- dow Culture. THE GERANIUM. NDER this head, we propose to treat of the plants usually known, in com- mon parlance, as Geraniums, includ- ing both those horticulturally and botanically known as such, and Pelar- goniums. Between these there are many minute and fanciful distinc- tions; the principal seems to be, the geranium has no nectary; the pelar- gonium has a nectary adhering to the peduncle. For window gardening, their treatment must be the same. For the odeyevinere, we are chiefly indebted to the Cape of Good Hope; the geranium is found, in some of its varieties, in Asia, Europe, and America; two of the family, our ‘‘ wild geraniums,” being familiar to us all as among the wild flowers of spring. The scarlet, or horse-shoe geranium, so called from the color of its flowers, and the dark marking of its leaves, is a very common and popular window plant. The rose, oak, 8 * 90 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. and nutmeg geraniums are commonly grown for their fra- grant leaves, and for their hardiness, as they can endure more hard usage than most plants. : The general fault in geranium culture is, crowding. The plants need light and air on all sides, and unless this is afforded they soon become one-sided, long-drawn, and strag- gling, with but few leaves, and these in a tuft at the end. The blossoms are small and few, and the whole plant pre- sents a picture of vegetation under difficulties. The fine varieties of pelargonium, called ‘‘ Fancies” by florists, it is useless to attempt to grow to any perfection in the house. They need constant care; and the rules for growing them as specimens, laid down by English florists, are sufficiently confusing and contradictory to involve the amateur in a maze of difficulty. Light, air, and cleanliness are the three primary rules for growing geraniums. The horse-shoe and high-scented vari- eties are not troubled by insects. The pelargoniums (large- flowered geraniums), require constant attention to keep them free from the green fly, which increases upon them with wonderful rapidity. If the weather is warm, and the plants at all affected by the fly, they should be smoked once in ten days, and frequently syringed. Surely the beauty of PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 91 the flowers will compensate for any trouble. To prevent “drawing,” that is, the growing of the plants towards the light, all geraniums should be frequently turned, which will give a well-proportioned plant. If the plants grow too tall, pinch out the top; all the axillary buds will then break into lateral branches. Again, if the side branches become too close, prune them out fearlessly. The geranium breaks easily, and you need never be afraid of killing the plant, even if you prune it down to a bare stump. Sotit. Pelargoniums and geraniums require a strong soil; that is, good sound loam, such as will grow melons. The top of a pasture will answer well. Let it be carted home and laid up in a long ridge, so as to expose as large a surface to the air as possible. Keep it clear of weeds, and let it be turned over every little while. To two parts of this loam, add one part of two-year-old cow dung, well turned over. Old hot-bed dung will do nearly, but not quite as well. Then add about one part of river sand and bits of charcoal, mixed. Let all these ingredients be kept in separate heaps till wanted for potting, then mix them in the above propor- tions, and use them moderately dry. This compost should 92 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. be used to bloom and grow the plants in. For the winter season, use a small quantity of leaf mould instead of dung. Fresh soil is always to be preferred, for old soil is apt to become cloddy and sour. PortTina. All being ready, put the drainage in a suitable sized pot. Place first a suitable crock, or a large oyster shell over the hole; then lay a few large crocks upon that, and smaller upon those, so that the drainage may occupy about three fourths of an inch. Place a thin layer of moss upon the drainage, and upon that a sprinkling of soot or charcoal dust; after that a thin layer of the rougher parts of the compost, and finally a layer of soil. Then turn the plant out of the old pot, pick out the old drainage, and loosen part of the old roots, spreading them over the new soil as much as possible. Then see that the collar of the roots is just below the rim of the pot, and fill in around the ball with the fresh soil, pressing it down gently as it is put in. When the pot is full, give it a smart stroke or two upon the bench to settle the soil; level it neatly, leaving it about half an inch below the rim of the pot. This finishes the potting. Then give a good watering of tepid water. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 93 For four or five weeks, while new roots are running into the fresh soil, they will not need a large supply of water ; but when the roots reach the sides of the pots, and the leaves and shoots are advancing in growth, then water will be required in abundance. . They should never be allowed to flag. After a hot, sunny day, let the plants, in addition to the water at the roots, have a gentle syringing. Exercise dis- cretion, however, on this point. The geranium is a spring and summer blooming plant. It is very difficult to obtain a flower from December to April; therefore, during the winter it should be kept cool, and moderately dry. About the first of February re-pot the plants, give more heat, sun, and water, and your plants will bloom profusely in May. The varieties grown only for their leaves may have more generous culture during the winter months. VARIETIES. Ivy-leaved geranium (P. lateripes), is a pretty trailing species, with ivy-shaped leaves and purple flowers in the summer. ‘There is also a variety with white flowers. It is ayre 94 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. a pretty window plant, and dary does well. It needs plenty of light, sun, and generous culture. The varieties of horse-shoe geraniums (P. zonale hybrids), are all good window flowers, and will often bloom in winter. The following are the best old varieties : — Scarlet. Dazzle, Tom Thumb, Defiance. Cerise. Cerise unique. Pink. Rosa mundi. White. Boule de Neige, Lady Turner. . Variegated Leaved. Flower of the Day, Golden Chain, Alma, Bijou. These latter varieties need a green-house to develop the rich colors of the foliage, yet they do well as bedding plants in the summer. P. graveolens is the common rose geranium. THE VERBENA. There are few plants which lend more beauty to the flower garden in summer, or enliven the green-house in the winter and early spring months in a greater degree, than the verbena. From the variety of colors, the rapidity of propagation, the little care needed to bloom the plant in per- fection, and the abundance of blossoms, it is, and always must remain, a universal favorite. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 95 In addition to these advantages, the facility with which new varieties are raised from seed, render it a favorite with the amateur; and in no collection do we fail to find the verbena, in some of its many varieties. It is a difficult task to prescribe the culture of a plant so well known, and which will grow and flourish under such a variety of circumstances, and in such different situations. As every one ies grown verbenas, each has his own peculiar mode of treatment, if, indeed, a flower requiring so little care can be said to have peculiar treatment. In writing of a plant, from which seedlings are produced with such ease, and which sports into such an infinite _ variety of colors and shades, we cannot be too careful in expressing a decided opinion. Every year new seedlings are “brought out,” and latterly the varieties have so mul- tiplied that it is very difficult to choose those really worthy of cultivation: the favorite of this spring may, after a year’s trial, be cast aside as worthless, for it may not be found worthy of general cultivation, or better varieties may have been originated. Our verbena was introduced into England from Buenos Ayres, where it is indigenous, by Mr. Hugh Cumming, an ardent lover of nature, about the year 18209. 96 ‘PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. The first, and for a long time the only variety cultivated, was Verbena melindres, or chameedrifolia ; but it now appears lost among the new and superior kinds which have been raised from seed. In form, it has been repeatedly excelled, but its creeping habit and abundance of bloom must always recommend it, though we doubt if at the present lime it can be obtained at any of our green-houses, and probably few of our younger cultivators have ever seen this once popular variety. The color is scarlet, and though perhaps equalled, can never be excelled. Many other earlier varieties might be mentioned, but, although interest- ing, it would too much extend the limits of this article. Verbena multfida, with lilac purple flowers, was intro- duced from Peru; Verbena Tweediana, with rose crimson flowers, from Brazil; and from these, and a few other varieties and seedlings, have sprung all the numerous varieties, many hundred in number, which may be found in extensive collections. The credit of introducing this plant into the United States belongs to Robert Buist, of Phila- delphia. About the year 1835, from seed received from Buenos Ayres, he raised the first white, pink, and crimson verbenas. The plant soon became generally known, and was every where a favorite; in the floral world it caused PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 97 quite an excitement, and the original kinds were soon sur- passed, in every respect, by newer seminal varieties. The culture of the verbena is very simple. The plants will bloom with very little care, but to grow them in perfec- tion requires attention; of thousands of plants of any size, ‘scarcely one is a fine specimen. Let us, beginning in early spring, trace the plant, as generally grown, and then see how much a little care might increase its beauty. About the first of February, cuttings of the young shoots are taken from old plants: in a sandy loam, a few weeks, and sometimes a few days, will suffice to root them; they are then potted off into thumb pots, and, if placed near the glass, will soon show a terminal flower. As soon as the season is sufficiently advanced, these young plants are bed- ded out, and, in favorable seasons, soon form a conspicuous feature in the flower garden, continuing to bloom till long after the early frosts. oe the first or middle of Septem- ber, the gardener begins to re-pot his plants for winter, and the common practice is to take a ‘runner, which has rooted well at a joint, and, after suitable pruning, to pot it for winter blooming and propagation. Others, again, take up the old roots, while others, by sinking pots in their verbena bed, about midsummer, allowed the runners to root directly 9 98 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. in the pots; the pots being taken up, and the connection with the mother plant cut, the young plant receives no injury or check. But this mode is very objectionable, for - two reasons: first, the loam in the pots is apt to become sour and sodden; and again, earthworms often enter the pots, and prove injurious during the winter. ‘The plants are housed, and, for a long time, produce no flowers, and are any thing but ornamental. Soon after the new year, they begin to grow vigorously, but are allowed to trail care- lessly over the staging, or droop from some hanging shelf. No care or attention is bestowed upon them, except to give the daily supply of water. The days grow towards spring. Cuttings are again taken off; the same process is repeated year after year ; and thus one of our loveliest flowers, which, with a little care, might be one of the greatest attractions and ornaments of our _ green-houses, is never seen in perfection, except in the garden. That this is the fact, is to be deplored; yet the remedy is simple. By beginning about midsummer, we may have verbenas in bloom as well during the winter as the spring months. About the first of August, or earlier, cuttings should be taken from desirable varieties. In a fortnight pe ae ial * PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 99 they will be ready to transplant. Pot them in thumb pots, and re-pot as soon as the roots touch the sides of the pot. Keep them in vigorous growth by affording plenty of light and air, being careful they never suffer from want of water. Pinch off the leading shoots, to cause all axillary buds to break, and in no case allow them to bloom. Train the plant in any form desired, but be careful not to permit it to grow too straggling. When other plants are housed, remove your verbenas to some warm shelf, where they may have the morning sun, and on every favorable day give plenty of air, and fumigate well to destroy green aphis. Your plants will soon be in luxuriant bloom, long before those potted in the common way have shown a bud, and will continue to afford an abundance of flowers until late in the spring. To grow verbenas well in the house in summer is far nee : They may be bloomed in pots of any size, and trained in almost any form, the only requisites being plenty of light and air, careful pruning, and means to destroy aphis and keep off mildew. One great fault in growing verbenas is the practice of watering too copiously. The plant, as originally found, grows on dry hills; and damp not only produces mildew, but rots the roots, and thus destroys or produces disease in the plant. Ee ee ty pi sbib ine F pei ea 100 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. The proper soil for verbenas, is two parts of loam, two of leaf mould, with an admixture of sand, and in this we have found them grow and bloom luxuriantly. Many verbenas, which for green-house blooming are unsurpassed, are worthless for bedding purposes; the petal of the flower being too thin, or the color fading or changing. Again, some bloom well in winter, others far better in sum- mer; some form large masses and flower well, others are of rambling growth and poor bloomers; some of creeping, others of more upright habit; while a few possess every desirable quality ; and in making a selection, all these prop- erties are to be considered. We have said that seedlings were produced with great ease. The verbena seeds well where the plants have not been too long propagated by cuttings. A long-continued propagation by cuttings seems to diminish the power of the plants to produce seed, and, as a general rule, the further removed a plant is from a seedling, the less the chance of its perfecting good seed. The seeds may be sown in a hot- bed or green-house, early in spring, and the plants, when about an inch and a half high, pricked out in the border; it is a good plan to pinch out the leading shoot, as thus the plants branch and become stronger; the plants grow rapidly, and soon show bloom. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 101 - But to raise a seedling is one thing, to raise a fine seed- ling, a far different. Of many hundred raised in the course of the last few years, by the writer, not more than half a dozen have been worthy of preservation, and only one (and that produced by chance) really a first-class flower. In raising seed, much may be done to insure its quality _ by planting fine varieties together, and allowing them to intertwine, then gathering the seed from these plants. No rule can be laid down to obtain any desired color, for the . seedlings sport infinitely. We can only approximate towards definite results; thus, if we plant Annie (white) and Robinson’s Defiance (red) together, the seedling will be likely to be pink. The flowers of the verbena are of every color and shade, except light blue, which color has never been obtained. A good yellow verbena has not yet been produced. There is a miserable variety, with a small truss of dirty yellow flowers. The writer, some years since, by a curious process of watering and fertilization with a white verbena, obtained a seedling, which proved, on blooming, to be of a light straw color; the plant was weak and sickly, and died before cut- tings could be taken. Since that time he has tried the experiment often, but never with any successful result. 9 * 102 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. The qualities of a first-class verbena, as laid down by florists, are: roundness of flower, without indenture, notch, or gnene petals thick, flat, bright and smooth; the plant should be compact, with short, strong joints, either distinctly of a shrubby habit, or a close, ground creeper or climber ; the trusses of bloom, compact, standing out from the foliage, the flowers meeting, but not crowding each other; the foliage should be short, broad, bright, and enough to hide the stalk; in the eyed and striped varieties, the colors should be well defined and lasting, never running into each other, or changing in the sun. As a window plant, there is nothing that will give more bloom than a verbena. Let it be trained on a trellis, and give it all the sun possible; the more sun, the more bloom. Pinch the shoots, to prevent its becoming too rambling, and give air enough, and your work is done. The production of seedlings, as above directed, is a very pretty amusement, and very simple. Seedlings will bloom in three months, from the seed. It only remains for us to describe some of the best vari- eties, both old and new. Those called first-class flowers, can be recommended for general culture, while many others, though very distinct and beautiful, are valuable only in a + a ee eee a ere ee we Se PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 103 large collection, or interesting to the amateur. We have not noticed seedlings, unless they have been proved and shown to be worthy of general culture. Grant or Barriers. Flower and truss large; habit good; foliage large; color dark scarlet, with purplish eye. A good variety. Drep. Flower medium; habit weak; a good bloomer, but of a dull purplish lake color. Pretty for variety. Apmirat Dunpas. Foliage and habit good; color vel- vety scarlet. Fine. GENERAL Simpson. A magnificent variety; color scarlet, crimson; flower and truss very large; habit very strong; by far the best of its color. No garden should be with- out it. Cerustian. A strong growing variety, the leaves often two inches across; truss large, forming a fine head; color pink, with darker eye; very fine. Evenine Star. Color dark crimson, with well-defined white eye; growth small; very fine in the house, and one of the best of the eyed varieties for the border. Rosy Gem. A lovely verbena; flower and foliage of medium size; color rosy lake, with light eye; fine in the house, but worthless for open culture. | oe 104 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. BRILLIANT DE VaisE. Growth fine; color crimson scar- let; a first-class variety ; succeeds equally well in the house and sunden. coma a late bloomer. Cuimax. Light, with dark eye; good. Cuauviert. Of weak habit; color dazzling crimson, with dark eye; valuable in a collection. DEFIANCE (Robinson’s). A fine old variety, always popular, and one of the best for bedding; growth strong; color dazzling red. Deriance (Kurtz’s). Of large, strong growth; color light pink, shading to a dark eye ; truss very large and flat; fine. . ETOILE DE VENus. Similar to the last, but larger and finer. Anniz. Habit strong; foliage medium ; color pure white; truss large, flat, single blooms very large; in some situations in the garden it has been very poor, in others very good ; a damp, peaty soil has flowered it in perfection, while in a dry or sandy place the trusses have been small, the growth weak, and the flowers inclined to change to pink. In the green-house, for winter flowering, it is very superior, being a constant bloomer; a well-grown plant will give more bloom than two of any other variety; superior. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 105 * IMPERaTRIcE Evizapuru. A pretty little striped variety, which should be in every collection; truss flat and small ; foliage cut and fine; habit creeping ; very pretty for a speci- men plant, and a free grower in the garden. DrpHam Bette. A good pink, free-flowering variety. - IpuicEne. Purple, with dark eye; a superior old variety. St. Marcarer. An old popular variety; color crimson scarlet; truss and flower good; always a free bloomer, and well worthy of cultivation. GLORY OF America. A first-class verbena for the gar- den; always a mass of bloom; crimson. -Lorp Racran (Banks’s). Dark crimson, with dark eye ; a fine flower; but the plant is of slow growth, and a poor bloomer. Lorp Racian (De Fosse’s). Light pearl color; pecu- liar; good for spring blooming. Mapenine Parrume. Like the last; fine for the garden, but useless in the green-house. Mrs. ArcHEeR Cuive. A first-class variety ; color rich carmine, shading to dark eye; equally fine for ‘green-house or open culture. _Mrs. Honrorp. A fine white; growth strong; very re en es eh Pg ee eee, | 106 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. fine for garden blooming, but very late in the green-house ; superior. Srripep Ecuipse. An old variety, of very rambling habit, very good, but now little cultivated. | StanDARD BEARER. Rich plum color, with white eye; a very desirable and beautiful variety. VicomprTEssE Emrtyn. Color white, shading to dark ; well-defined eye; a free flowerer; by far the finest of its class; does not propagate easily. Jenny Linp. A pretty white and purple-eyed variety. Verbenas may be grown to advantage in the garden, either in masses, as single plants, or upon rock-work ; many pretty effects may be produced by a careful arrangement of colors ; they are also well adapted for hanging pots and for vases, In which they will bloom profusely. | There is no flower which, if properly grown, will better repay the care required, and none which will show so well with but little attention, and we trust that these few remarks may lead to a more careful cultivation of this beau- tiful plant. THE HELIOTROPE. This plant is always admired for its fragrance, and will ever be a favorite for window culture. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 107 It is a native of Peru, and has been in our gardens since the year 1757. | The details of culture are similar to those prescribed for the verbena; the soil should be strong loam, with a little sand and manure. ‘The’ heliotrope is seldom grown as well as it should be. It should have frequent re-pottings, and be allowed to grow large. We have seen them in parlors, in large tubs on wheels, and eight feet high. Such plants are in themselves bouquets of beauty, nen always covered with flowers. Train the main stems of the plant to a trellis, and let the branches droop naturally, and as they will gracefully. The plant bears the knife well, and breaks freely, so it can be trained into any shape. ; The common variety is H. corymbosuwm, then the onic ff. See ; H. Volterranum is a fine dark variety, but not so strong growing. Florists’ catalogues contain many varieties, but the above are the best for general culture. THE SALVIA. This plant is only valuable as a window plant in summer and early autumn. The chief variety cultivated is the Scarlet ‘ 108 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. Mexican Sage (S. splendens), introduced from Mexico about forty years ago. It is a rank growing shrub, with long, jointed stalks, crowned with rich, scarlet flowers. The best way to grow it is to set the plant in rich soil in the garden in spring. It will grow vigorously. About the last of September pot it (it transplants easily), shade it for a few days, then remove it to a sunny window, where it will delight you with its brilliant blossoms for two months. Then keep it cool until spring, and repeat the operation until the plant becomes so large as to be unmanageable ; then spring cuttings must be taken off and rooted. The proper soil is, three parts loam, one leaf mould, one manure, with a sprinkling of sand. Salvia patens is an exquisite blue flowered variety. It blooms well in the garden in summer, and the fleshy roots may be preserved like a dahlia through the winter. There are many other fine varieties. THE TROPAOLUM. This flower, from its earliest discovery and introduction, has been a popular favorite. As year by year newer varieties have been discovered, or finer seedlings raised from old favorites, it has steadily advanced in favor, till now, the ¢ wns hus ee Pe Fy ee le ee, 7 A" ae eid PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 109 rich man’s choicest green-house and the poor man’s garden alike boast some of the varieties of this beautiful plant. In the limits of a short article, like the present, it will be impossible, of course, to give a detailed description, or even to mention all the varieties; many are only desirable in a collection, being of inferior beauty; while others are rare, or of difficult. culture, and therefore found only in the green- houses of amateurs. _ The different varieties of tropzeolum divide themselves into three distinct classes. First, those with bulbous, or rather tuberous roots, such as Tropcecolum azureum and others. Second, those with large, round leaves, and large showy, often coarse, flowers, as the various varieties of Tro- peolum majus. Third, those with small, delicate, regu- larly-formed flowers, with smaller leaves, and more of climb- ing rather than trailing habit, such as J. Lobbianum. We are aware that this division is imperfect; that some varieties partake of the characteristics of more than one class, and that others are with difficulty included in any of the three ; and to any one acquainted with all the different varieties, the difficulty of classification will be at once apparent. We Sa therefore, only attempt this general division ; leaving a particular description to be given when 10 pera cal ee ee 110 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. we treat of each variety. The soil to be used in the culture of the tropzeolum is, for the bulbous varieties, leaf-mould and peat, with an admixture of fine sand; for the other classes, an addition of more sand is to be advised, as care - must be taken not to enrich the soil too highly, for in a rich soil, with plenty of room to develop the roots, the plants are | apt to run all to leaves. This may be prevented in two ways, either by giving a poor soil, or by allowing the roots to become ‘‘ pot-bound,” and nourishing the plant by slight waterings of liquid manure; they generally fail to give satisfaction if the soil is close, heavy, and binding. All the varieties, we believe, are readily propagated by cuttings, and many produce seed in abundance. Some succeed better if allowed to trail on the ground; others are so delicate as to need constant attention and careful training. Some are hardy in England, though to our knowledge none have ever been able to survive our severe winters in the open ground, or protected in frames. All the varieties are of the most rapid growth, and are mostly free flowerers; none are desti- tute of some beauty, while the greater number are remark- able for the combinations of dazzling colors which they afford. The prevailing color is yellow in its different shades; next, red; then dark; and lastly, a most extraor- PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 111 _ dinary fact, which puzzled the botanists, a beautiful blue. It had been asserted and argued, with wea show of reason, that a flower, of which all the known varieties, or the gen- eral types, were of red, yellow, or cognate colors, could, by no possibility, be found related to a plant with blue flowers, or could there be a blue flowering plant in the same class. The discovery of a blue tropzolum, in 1844, completely refuted this theory. In the treatment of the tropzolum, it is essential for the good health of the plants that they should enjoy plenty of light and air; without this, they can- not fail to become sickly or unsightly from faded leaves and small flowers. A supply of water should be given with the syringe, overhead, occasionally, which will conduce to the vigor of the plant, and destroy the red spider, which some- times attacks the leaves. The plant, in all its varieties, is remarkably free from disease or insects; we have occasion- ally had the more delicate varicties troubled by green fly, and by mealy bug, but very little care will prevent this. The chief danger seems to lie in the decaying of the roots by over-watering when in growth, or by not withholding water when they are in a state of rest. These remarks, of course, apply only to the bulbous varieties. Sometimes we have known the roots of the summer-blooming varieties to ‘insects. 112 = PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. be attacked by the root aphis, but this is unfrequent. The | foliage is of too fiery a taste to be subject to the attacks of mh e j | With these few remarks we will proceed to the descrip- tion of the different varieties, noting any peculiarity tthe habits of each, or any peculiar mode of culture which may be best adapted to its nature. The oldest and best known variety is TROP#OLUM MAJUS, the common nasturtium of our gardens —a native of Peru, but very early introduced. This occurs in a variety of colors, and under a variety of names. The colors are chiefly red, yellow, very dark, and all the intermediate shades; or, again, red upon yellow in spots, shadings, stripes, or bands, or yellow upon red or dark ground, Scarce two flowers, unless self-colored, will be found alike, and there is no prettier sight than a flower bed filled with this variety, the various colored flowers contrasting finely with the large round leaves. At any seed “store, varieties _ may be obtained; and by a little care in planting the seeds, a beautiful effect may be produced. This species is of the easiest culture, and will grow almost without care; it is well adapted for covering rock-work, or any unsightly spot, producing from the latter part of June until killed by the ele OEE Ey We Ck he rede PRE 8 WO Nee PEND. YA Ay re heb CRE ae als tie el PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 113 frost, a constant succession of brilliant flowers and orna- mental foliage. All the varieties of this species are annual, and are propagated either by seeds, which are freely pro- duced, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood, which root freely in sand. TROPZOLUM MAJUS ATROSANGUINEUM is only a very fine - variety, as its name implies, of the above. It was intro- duced into England as early as the year 1684. The required soil is light and rich; it flowers freely ; increased by seeds and cuttings. It would be useless to attempt a description of the varieties of Tropeolum majus; so constantly do they change, that each year, as newer seedlings are produced, the older are forgotten and lost. All are well worthy of cultivation, and some of the varieties should be in every garden. We have seen a double variety, but it was evi- dently a mere sport, which was only propagated and pre- served as a curiosity in a collection; the colors were con- fused, and the blossom destitute of beauty. We pass now to the varieties of Tropeolum minus, being those comprised in our last class, and seemingly only reduced specimens of Tropceolum majus. We have seen it stated that this variety was introduced before Tropceolum 10 * 114 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. majus, but we believe the best authorities agree on the latter being the oldest known variety. Be this as it may, both were known in Europe at a very early period. The plants of Tropceolum minus, and its varieties, may always be distinguished from those of Tropceolum majus, and its varieties, by the leaves; in the former, the nerves of the leaves always end in a point, which is never the case with - those of the latter. TropzoLtum Logppianum, sometimes called T. peltopho- rum. One of the very finest ; first collected by Mr. Lobb, in Columbia. A rampant grower, and free flowerer in the green-house; color of flowers, orange scarlet. The tem- perature of the house to bloom it well, should be kept about fifty degrees; a slight watering of liquid manure should occasionally be given. It does not succeed well with us in the open border; our summers are too short, and the plants are apt to be nipped by the frost just as they are fully set with fliswer buds; it strikes freely from cuttings, and pro- duces seed sparingly. Most of our fine, new varieties are probably hybrids between this and the following. TROPHOLUM PULCHERRIMUM. Like the last, a rampant grower ; color of flowers, bright yellow, with starry rays of orange scarlet at the base of the petal; a free flowerer in the green-house. Culture like the last. . 3 . , ae PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 115 Tropotum SmitHu. A brilliant red variety, a native of the high mountains of Columbia; treat as 7. majus ; will bloom well in the open border. TropmoLtum Ranpit. A very fine seedling of Mr. Joseph Breck’s; a very vigorous grower; the writer has, in one summer, had one side of a large green-house covered by a small plant.. This variety has the desirable property of blooming equally well as a border plant in the summer and in the green-house in winter. The color of the flower is brilliant yellow; the base of each petal marked with a round black spot; the flowers are often veined with purplish red, sometimes very deeply, and, from a large plant, often dozens of blossoms, all of different shades, may be gathered; this 1s particularly the case in the green-house; in the bor- der, the colors are more constant. This is probably from its abundant flowers and free habit, the most popular variety of its color, among gardeners for bouquet purposes, and, though of comparatively recent introduction, is very widely disseminated. Enegreed by cuttings; produces seed sparingly. TROPHOLUM PERIGRINUM, ADUNCUM, or CANARIENSE, commonly known as canary-bird flower. A very lovely and popular variety; grows about ter feet high, and blooms well 116 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. if the soil is not too rich. It is commonly cultivated as a summer border plant, but will bloom well in the green- house. To this end, plants should be struck during the summer, and grown with plenty of light and air; let the soil be loam, and well rotted manure, with a little sand; do not give the roots too much pot room, and water occa- sionally with liquid manure. Plants may also be raised from seed, but they flower less freely than those struck from cuttings. This lovely variety is too well known to need description. We have been thus diffuse in treating of this plant, because it is the best climbing window plant we have. Give it sun, and it will be a mass of bloom all winter. A pretty way is to train it up the side and across the window on strings. Do not, however, give it a very large pot, or it will all run to leaves. It should also have a sandy soil. : % rs 5 - Dy. PLS ZB: - . - « All Eden bright, | With these, her holy offspring, creations of the light; As though some gentle ange!, commissioned love to bear, Had wandered o‘er the greensward. and left her footprints there. COP VAGP ER Er Eye PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING, CONTINUED. Roses. CHINA ROSE: History.— Description. — Soil.— Pruning.— Wa- tering. — Varieties. TEA Rose: History. — Culture. — Varieties. BourRBonN Roses: History.— Culture.— Varicties. Pinks: Indian Pink. — Carnation.— Difference between Carnation and Picotee.— Classes. — Soil. — Potting.— Care of Flowers.— Culture out of doors. — Prop- (117) 118 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. agation. — Layers. — Pipings. — List of Carnations and Picotees. FUCH- SIAS: History. — Growth. — How to direct it. — Wintering. — Soil. — 2 ‘ Varieties. N continuing our list of plants adapt- ed for window gardening, we come to the queen of flowers, the Rose. A book, rather than a portion of a chapter, should be devoted to this flower; but as our space is limited, we must with a word, dismiss the large divisions of June, Hardy or Hybrid Perpetuals, Pro- vence, Damask, Galic, Moss, Climbing, Austrian, Noisette, and Banksian Roses, each of which would require a separate treatise, and confine ourselves to the China, Bourbon, and Tea families. Many of the others are of great value for the green- house, some being, in our climate, purely green-house prnses. and others being invaluable for forcing; but none succeed with parlor culture, though many are well known in the garden, and may claim more than a passing mention when we come to the concluding portion of our book, the Flower Garden and Shrubbery. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 119 CHINA ROSE. And, first, the China rose. While treating of paren- tage, we may also include the tea rose, which, with the China, comes from the same ancestor, the Rosa Indica and its varieties. From this stock come all the China and tea- scented roses, which, by skilful hybridization, are now so multiplied that already their name is legion. Prop- erly speaking, the three roses which are the oldest, and may be considered parents of the race, are Rosa Indica, the common Chinese rose, f. semperflorens, the crimson or sanguinea rose, and £&. odorata, the Chinese or sweet- scented tea rose. The China rose and its hybrids are usually stout growing, and sometimes of a close, twiggy habit. With us they will not endure the winter without protection, but south of Baltimore, stand out uninjured. _ They are the common rose of window gardening, and are known as ‘monthly roses.” The colors vary from white to deep crimson or red, running through all the shades of blush and pink. They are often exposed for sale in early spring at the corners of streets and in the market places, every little 120 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. shoot being crowned with a bud or flower. The foliage is generally smooth, glossy, and fine cut, clothing every little twig, and of a lively, fresh appearance. It will survive almost any treatment, and will live if but a ray of sunlight can reach it. It is the poor man’s friend, and clings to him in every vicissitude ; yet, while possum ing adaptability to circumstances in a remarkable degree, no plant will better repay care and attention. Cleanliness, washing, and syringing are essential to good health; give plenty of light, and it will repay you by abundance of bloom. Though as its common names (daily or monthly rose) imply, it will not bloom every day, yet there will sel- dom be a day when it will not have a flower or a bud upon it. It will ask you, too, for an occasional smoking ; for the green fly is very fond of the delicate juices of its young shoots, and this indeed of all roses. Do not give it too large a pot. Roses will do well in smaller pots, in proportion to their size, than almost any other plant. | SOIL. Yet the soil must be rich and well mixed. It should consist of four parts of the richest black loam, or leaf mould, two parts of well-rotted manure, with a slight ad- PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 121 mixture of fine sand. This soil should not be sifted, but lumpy, yet well mixed together. In potting, as much of the old soil as can be taken off without breaking the roots, should be removed, and the plant set just up to the neck or collar, on the new soil; settle the earth well around the plant, and give a gentle watering from the fine rose of a watering pot. Pruning should be done as required; the eyes will break any where; therefore, whenever a branch becomes too long or un- sightly, cut it in; there need be no fear of ‘injuring the plant. If they have been planted out in the garden during the summer, on removal to the house in the autumn they will need a severe pruning. Cut off the young wood to within a few inches of the old wood, and give the plants a little rest, by giving less water and little heat; when you wish them to bloom, bring them into full sunlight, give more. heat, and, as soon as the young branches have begun to push, give plenty of water. Every eye will produce a shoot, crowned with one or more buds ; after blooming, shorten in the blooming branches about one half; new eyes will push, and a second display of bloom be the result. In watering roses, care must be taken not to render the soil 11 122} PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. cold and sodden ; water should never stand round the roots; frequent stirring of the surface of the soil is very beneficial. A few bits of charcoal, broken fine and mixed with the earth, will impart the richest brilliancy to the flowers. The following list of China roses will be found to include the best old varieties. New hybrids are constantly pro- duced, and all of this class make good window plants. China roses are called also ‘‘ Bengal”. roses. Lust of China Roses. 1. Agrippina, or Cramoist Superieur. Rich, velvety crimson, very double. 2. La Superbe. Purple crimson, very double, flowers always opening well. ; 3. Eels Blush. A profuse bloomer; flowers large and double, resem- bling a tea rose. 4. Indica, or Common Daily. Dark blush or rose color; free grower and profuse bloomer. This is the common “monthly rose.” : 5. Indica Alba. A white variety of the last, of more slender growth, but double and free flowering. | 6. A dwarf form of R. Indica, called ‘* Fairy Rose,’ Tom Thumb, Lawrenceana, is a pretty little miniature rose, very double, and about as large as a dime or half dime. ; 7. Mrs. Bousanguet. Creamy blush, very fine; by some classed as a Bourbon, which it seems to be. It is very distinct from other Chinas. 8. Semperflorens, or ‘ Sanguinea.” Very double; cupped; rich crimson. Hvery where grown and appreciated. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 123 9. Jacksonia. Bright red, very double. 10. Lowis Philippe. Dark crimson; globular. ll. Eugene Hardy. White, changing to blush. 12. Eugene Beauharnais. Bright amaranth, very fine form, and fragrant. There are many others which may be found in florists’ catalogues. . For one rose for bloom, choose No. 8; for two, Nos. 8 and 3; for three, Nos. 8, 8, and 12; for four, add No. 4; for five, add No. 2; for six, No. 9 or 1. TEA ROSES. The original rose (/?. odorata) was only introduced about 1812, and from this have sprung our many fine varieties. The treatment required is identical with that of the China rose ; yet a richer soil, and more heat and light, may be afarded to advantage. The former is easily done by in- creasing the proportion of manure in potting. They also need more care, and are not so patient under neglect. For summer bedding in the garden, they are un- surpassed. Usually their growth is more delicate and graceful than that of the China varieties. The following list includes some of the best varieties, which may be relied upon for window or garden growth. 124 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. They will not bear our winters unprotected. This list may be multiplied fourfold from catalogues : — 1. Adam. Bright pink; large and cupped. 2. Comte de Paris. Creamy rose; large and fine. 3. Caroline. Bright, rosy pink or flesh-colored; large and very fine. 4. Gloire de Dijon. Yellow, shaded with salmon and rose; an im- mense flower; very full; not always opening well with window culture ; by some, considered a ‘‘ Bourbon.” 5. Clara Sylvain. Pure white; double; very fragrant. 6. Yellow Tea. Pale yellow; long, beautiful bud; very fine. 7. Elise Sauvage. Bright yellow, fading to white; large and fine. 8. Madame Desprez. White; very fragrant. 9. Safrano. Fawn color or saffron; sometimes rosy; not very double, but fine in the bud. 10. Triomphe de Luxembourg. Buff salmon, shading to rose. ll. Souvenir dwt Amt. Rose and salmon; fine. 12. Goubault Rose. Yellow centre; large and fine. 13. Le Pactole. Lemon yellow; very fine. 14. Bougére. Browzy, rosy lilac; a strong grower. 15. Odorata. Fine blush, well cupped. For one rose of this class, for window culture, we should select No. 15; then add No. 9, No. 12, No. 14, No. 5, No. 2, No. 1. BOURBON ROSES. The union of the Damask Perpetual with the China rose has produced the new and distinct race ingen as Bour- bons. They have a peculiar habit and foliage, are free, vigorous growers, and much hardier than the China rose. In the Middle States, they are perfectly hardy, and will LS Oar ae 3 |. a > ee a ee ee » ik Mle r alt 2 a - So a ere + ta Be ea ee aes. o. (i ehawe4 fe a se ee Ee weet ey eS yaa = PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. seeds in a pot in April; as soon as the weather becomes warm, transplant to a rich, sunny border; the plants will grow rapidly, and probably be in fruit the next winter; pot the plants before the frost, and winter in room. There is a more dwarf-growing species (S. capiastricum), with orange berries, which is also very ornamental. A strong loam is the proper soil for all plants of this family. THE LAURESTINUS. This plant, hardy in England, is with us a winter- blooming parlor ornament. It is a free-growing, free- blooming evergreen, and will bear much hard usage. If cared for, however, it will repay the attention. The flowers are small, white, and in large, flattened panicles, expanding from February to May. The proper soil is a mixture of four parts loam, with one each of sand, leaf mould, and manure. The pots should be large, and the plants be freely watered. Dust collecting on the foliage injures the beauty and health of this plant, therefore frequent washings are desirable. There are many varieties, some of which, as the snow-ball (Viburnum op- ulus), are hardy shrubs. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 157 HOYA, OR WAX PLANT. A showy genus of stove climbers, of which one, Hoya carnosa, succeeds well with parlor culture. It is a climbing shrub, the leaves dark green and fleshy; the flowers are of a peculiar waxy appearance, produced in umbels, whitish, with rose-colored centre, in which hangs a drop of limpid honey. ) Give the plant a large pot, and a compost of peat and loam in equal parts, securing good drainage. Give as much sunlight and heat as possible. The old bloom stalks should not be removed, as they put out flowers year after year. Much water is not needed, especially when the plant is not growing. This beautiful plant is a native of tropical Asia, and is one of the few stove plants that will adapt themselves to parlor culture. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. These plants are favorites for autumn blooming, and quite a treatise might be written on their cultivation, since they have become florists’ flowers. A few hints must, how- ever, suffice. The best way to obtain a fine specimen is, to set out in 14 a its ee ee Cae teal 158 PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. the garden a the early spring a small plant; give it con- stant attention during the summer, and pinch out the shoots so as to wore rafal branches. About the first of Septem- ber let it set for bloom, and on the approach of frost, pot it -and remove it to the parlor. It will bloom for two months or more. ‘Then dry it off for the winter in the cellar, and by the spring it will furnish you with plenty of young plants. Water should be liberally supplied. The small- flowered, Pompon, varieties are very desirable; the larger flowers are best seen in the garden. ‘The proper soil is loam and well-rotted manure, with a little silver sand. Waterings of liquid manure are ory beneficial as the plants are showing bloom. The following will be found to be fine kinds: — Pompone. Andromeda. Cream color. Riquiqui. Violet plum. Nellie. Creamy pink. Lady Mayoress. White. Miranda. Bright rose. Salamon. Rosy carmine. Christiana. Canary yellow. — Canary Bird. Yellow. Mrs. Diz. Blush. Miss Talford. White. Large-Flowered Varieties. Alarm. Crimson. Prince Albert. Crimson red. Intile Harry. Golden amber. King of Yellows. Yellow. Cassy. Orange and buff. Vesta. White. Hermine. Silver white. Annie Salter. Canary yellow. Pearl. Pearly white. Queen of England. Blush. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENING. 159 BEGONIA. The only two species of this ornamental stove plant that do well in the parlor, are B. incarnata, and fuchsiordes. The former is an evergreen shrub, with thick, fleshy stems, and large, drooping clusters of pink flowers in winter. It shows to great advantage if well cared for, and is one of the best window plants. The latter is often called ‘coral drop,” and resembling the former somewhat in habit, pro- duces at all seasons, but chiefly in summer, its pretty, drooping, coral flowers. Both species require the warmest possible situation, and plenty of light and sun. They are impatient of much water, but the plants should never be allowed to droop. Good drainage is indispensable. The whole family thrive in a compost of one half loam, one half leaf mould, with a slight portion of sand. \ ge ee a AN \ ay O\\\ Ne oY a RQ RN \ =\ Seem. ay Pen E CHA POE Vaile. CAPE BULBS. THE IxtA: Soil.— Potting. — Drying off.— Seedlings. — Species. — Vari- eties. Tue OxALIS: Culture.— Soil.— Species. THE BABIANA: De- scription. — Culture. —Red Spider.— Species). THE WH#MANTHUS: (160) SR ae rin RRC im) fw oth CAPE BULBS. 161 Description. — Culture. — Species. THE AMARYLLIS: Description. — Soil.— Species. THE LACHENALIA: Soil. — Potting. — Foliage. — Spe- cies. THE SPARAXIS: Description. — Culture. — Species. — Watering. THE ANOMATHECA: Description. — Planting. — Resting. — Seedlings. — Species. THE TRITONIA: Culture.— Species. THE HOMERIA: Soil. — Culture. — Flowering. — Species. THE NERINE: Culture. — Soil. — Species. 7HERE is no finer class of window plants than the subjects of the pres- ent chapter. They combine, in a re- markable degree, the two requisites ye > of easy cultivation and floral beauty. x — Yet strange it is, that we seldom see them, i except in the green-house or conservatory, in this country, while in England they are pop- Qy ular plants for home adornment, and grown both | in the window and garden. Now, the inclemency of our climate debars us from blooming these floral gems in the garden; but, as a com- pensation, our winter suns bring them to perfection at a season when the earth is locked with frost, and out-door gardening is entirely prevented. They are mostly natives of Southern Africa, in the region of the Cape of Good Hope; whence their horticul- tural name, Cape Bulbs. From the nature of the climate 14* ee ae oe er ea a i ee oe , AY x 162 CAPE BULBS. of that region, it is’ obvious that the bulbs must have a season of rest. The year is there divided into two por- tions, the dry and rainy seasons; during the one, the earth is saturated with moisture; during the other, parched with drought. | The general rule of culture is evident. When the plants start into growth, give plenty of water and sun; keep them vigorously growing until after the flowers. have faded; then dry them off gradually, by watering less and less, till the foliage withers; then place them in a dry, airy place, with- out removing them from the pots, until the season of growth. The soil should be sandy loam, for almost all the species. Never allow water to stand round the roots. The time for potting is from October to December ; they will flower from February to April; let them dry off from March to June, and rest till October. These are but gen- eral rules; special cultural directions will be given when we treat of each species. We have only described a few of those best adapted for the house. There are more than a hundred species, and countless varieties. To those who would see their beauty, and are unable to grow them, we : would recommend Mrs. Loudon’s book on Bulbous Plants, where most of them are described, and colored illustrations of many of the finest given. CAPE BULBS. 163 THE IXIA. These are all bulbs of easy growth, and remarkable for the brilliancy of their flowers. About the latter part of November, or earlier if the bulbs begin to grow, they should be shaken from the soil in the pots, and planted anew, in a compost made of one part sandy loam and one part peaty earth, with a little well-decomposed dung, in new, clean pots; fill the pots about an inch deep with small crocks to secure gcod drainage, as the plants never thrive if the earth around the roots become sodden. Place the pots in a cool place till the plants begin to grow, when they should be placed in a strong light on a shelf close to the window. As a general rule, all bulbs should be grown as close to the glass as possible, as thus the leaves are shorter and of a better color, and the plants never become drawn, weak, and sickly. Do not attempt to force these plants; they do not bear it well, and are deficient in size and number of flowers. The temperature sufficient to grow them is about forty degrees at night, to sixty by day. Five or six bulbs in a ten-inch pot, are quite sufficient, but never mix the varieties; the bulbs in a dry state are very similar, therefore each pot should be labelled distinctly, 164 CAPE BULBS. if confusion in potting would be avoided. These plants, in England, are often grown in frames, or in the open border. In our climate, the green-house is their proper place, as they are killed by the least frost. By the latter part of January the flower stalks will begin to appear ; as they are very slender, they should be secured to neat stakes. Soon after blooming, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the plants indicate a desire to rest. Unless it is desirable to ripen seed, the plants should be allowed to dry off grad- ually, and the pots then placed on a dry place, secure from mice, until the next autumn. Seedlings may be easily raised. Sow the seeds thinly, about the first of October, in the same soil used for the bulbs; allow the seedlings to remain in the pan one year; then transplant and treat as old bulbs; they will bloom the third year, if well cared for. The nfost usual mode of propagation is by offsets, which are freely produced; the old bulb dies each year, giving birth to new bulbs and a thee of offsets; separate these before potting, and they will soon make flowering plants. Most of the varieties do well in the parlor window, and we can recommend them as both pretty and showy, though we believe none are fragrant. We have only space to describe a few out of some thirty varieties. CAPE BULBS. 165 Ixia Viridiflora. A most lovely species; leaves very slender; flower spike very long, producing from ten to thirty flowers. Words cannot describe the beauty of the flower; the petals are of a peculiar vivid green; the base of each black; stamens large and yellow; the contrast is most marked; a very free bloomer, of the easiest culture. Intro- duced from the Cape about the year 1789. Ixia Crocata, or. more properly, Tritonia Crocata. Flowers orange yellow, in great profusion. A fine variety for window culture. Ixia Conchiflora. A strikingly beautiful variety, with long, buff- colored flowers. Ixia Conica. Flowers orange; very pretty. Ixia Crat-roides. Flowers dark yellow. Ixia Alba Oculata. Color white, shading to yellow, with a dark choc- olate eye; exterior of petals pink, yellow and white. A very fine variety. Ixia Crispa. Flowers blue. Ixia Erecta. Flowers white or flesh color. Ixia Squahda. Flowers rosy lilac. Ixia Kermisiana. Flowers vermilion. Ixia Leucantha. Flowers white. Ixia Capitata. Flowers white and black. The following are varieties : — m I. Theseus. Rosy pink, shading to a deep purple or lake eye. I. Aulica. Exterior of petals purple; interior almost white, shading to purple at the tips; eye dark purple. I. Plutus. Exterior of petals orange, with red strip down centre of the outer; inner petals, and interior of all, bright orange; eye almost black. I. Pallas. Only differing from last described in being straw, or cream color, instead of orange. PAD ee ee OND NE Re Ui Ne he oN untae Rice 166 CAPE BULBS. These varieties resemble in growth Ixia viridiflora, are tall growers, with narrow leaves. They are very fine, and well worthy of general cultivation. There are also many newer varieties advertised in English catalogues. An outlay of a few dollars will procure all these, and many other fine varieties, from England. The best way to procure a good stock is to import a collection. There are many new seedlings which are very beautiful. This plant will well repay the little trouble required to grow it in perfection. THE OXALIS. A very beautiful winter and spring flowering bulb. The varieties are very numerous, and are all indigenous to the Cape of Good Hope and America. The details of culture for the New Holland species are identical with those given for the ixia; we need not, there- fore, repeat them; any varieties requiring peculiar treat- ment we will notice as we proceed. The soil should be sandy peat and leaf mould, and the pots should always be well drained. These plants are not universally bulbous, some having fleshy, tuberous roots, and it is evident the same treatment will not do for all. Some varieties produce their bulbs in a curious manner; the original bulb sends CAPE BULBS. 167 down a long, radicle fibre, which in time forms the new bulb, and the old bulb dies. We have space but to note a few varieties. Oxalis Hirta, O. Flabelifolia, O. Elongata, and O. Amena require to be potted in August or September. Oxalis Boweana. One of the best, producing large clusters of bright, rosy red flowers during the whole fall. Should be potted in September. Native of the Cape of Good Hope. Oxalis Floribunda. A variety with short, fleshy stems, just serving to elevate the dense tuft of leaves and blossoms above the soil. Should be allowed to dry off during the winter, and bedded out in summer, when it will bloom profusely for about four months. A native of Chili. Flowers rosy pink. Oxalis Carnosa will do well with the same treatment. Oxalis Caprina. ‘Two varieties, the single and double; the former is preferable, and the freer bloomer. Flowers, yellow and fragrant, pro- duced most luxuriantly all winter. Pot in October. This variety does finely under window culture. Oralis Deppii. A summer-blooming variety, with fine, lilac rose flowers. Does well bedded out. A native of Mexico. The fleshy tap- roots of this variety are sometimes used as an esculent. Ozalis Versicolor. A lovely variety; flowers white, with yellow eye, rosy pink, or crimson outside ; whether the flowers are expanded (which they only are in sunny weather) or in the bud, they are equally orna- mental. Plant, in October, six to eight large bulbs (the largest do not exceed a pea in size) in a five-inch pot; suspend the pot; the plants droop over the side, and are a mass of bloom from January to April. Native of the Cape. Oxalis Luxula, and O. Lurula Alba, are pretty varieties, to be potted in September, and blooming freely during the winter. Flowers pink and white respectively. / 168 CAPE BULBS. Oxalis Alba, Multiflora, Cuprea, Elegans, Palmata, Hirtella, Lasian- dra, and Speciosa, are all pretty varieties, worthy of cultivation. THE BABIANA. This is a very handsome genus of Cape bulbs, with hairy plaited leaves, and brilliant flowers. They are natives of arid plains, and during their growing season will bear much wet, and when dry will not be injured by great heat. In their native haunts the ground often becomes powdery, and the bulbs lie exposed to the fierce rays of the sun. | The general treatment prescribed for ixias will suit them well. The soil should be kept open by sufficient sand, yet should be rich, say two parts sandy loam, and one part black leaf mould. These plants are very subject to attacks of the red spider, for which constant syringing is the remedy. It is to be remembered that in this ‘‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” for when the red spider once makes a home in the hairy leaves it is very difficult to dislodge him. Seedlings are easily raised, and flower the third year. The following, from some twenty species, are the best : — Babiana Rubro Cyanea.. A very handsome plant. Flower very bril- liant; colors dark blue and dazzling crimson; leaves broad, covered CAPE BULBS. 169 with hairy down; flowers of long duration, if not exposed to too strong alight. A pot of this bulb, in full bloom, is one of the most splendid ornaments of the parlor. This beautiful bulb may be procured in this country, but not in any quantity. It is often imported under the name of Anomatheca Azurea. B. Villosa. CHAPTER XII. ) BALCONY GARDENING. Situation. — Arrangement.— What to plant. CoBEA SCANDENS: Autumn Treatment. (224) BALCONY GARDENING. Joe y _ PLEASANT summer pastime, in sid x . our climate, is balcony gardening. a In England, very pretty winter gar- dens are fitted up in the balconies by a collection of fine evergreens, such as variegated ~Hollies, Lau- \ , if e S A \ ag of these withstand our winter. ion In England, they never have such burn- J ing sun and such icy cold as we expe- rience; such sudden changes of temperature as occur in our climate are unknown, and many of the inhabitants of our green-houses are there hardy plants. It is not the winter's cold which kills many of our plants, it is the sun. The plant is frozen hard by a zero night; at morning, the sun comes out warm, and, while the air around may be cold, the plant is thawed; at night, it is again frozen; then thawed. Is it strange the plant dies? Therefore it is that many plants will grow and thrive on the north side of your house, which, on the south, are winter-killed. The remedy is simple: protect from the winter’s sun, and your plants will not be winter-killed. In this climate a pretty display of green may be kept up 226 BALCONY GARDENING. on a balcony in winter, by a lot of small, hardy evergreens, such as white and pitch pine, hemlock, and spruce; but even these,on a sunny exposure, grow dingy and suffer; therefore we say, balcony gardening must be a summer pastime. The balcony should face the south or east, so as to ob- tain the morning sun; there are few flowers which succeed in the shade. Now, we may either grow our plants in pots, or fit up the haleony with neat boxes; but in either case the outside of them must not be exposed to the direct rays of the sun; it would heat and parch the earth so nothing would succeed. | A good way to prevent this is to make a board lining round the inside, and fill a space of three inches with straw, tan, or moss, between the outside and your boxes. Fill your boxes with a rich soil, composed of one part loam, two parts leaf mould, two parts decomposed manure. Put an : inch of ‘* crocks,” or broken pots, in the bottom, to secure drainage, and have a few augur holes in the bottom of each box to allow the surplus water to drain off. Now, the boxes being all prepared, and the season the first of May, what shall be planted? Yet first, do not plant too much; you have only a balcony, BALCONY GARDENING. Pad not an acre lot, therefore be content with a few good plants, remembering that by trying to grow many you will succeed with none; each plant will crowd its right and left hand neighbor, and all will become drawn and weak. If your balcony is small, do not attempt to grow shrubs, but be content with climbers for the sides, a few hardy herbaceous plants, and annuals. If you have plenty of room, grow as much as you can without crowding. Now, as we said, let the season be the first of May, and supposing we have a sizable balcony, all fitted with boxes filled with prepared soil, what shall we plant? First, a Weigela rosea, —one of those beautiful exotic shrubs introduced from China, and bearing, in June, lovely bunches of pink flowers changing to white. Let us set this in one outside corner, and on the other side, to match it, plant a Spirea. prunifolia, a beautiful species, which, about the middle of May, puts on an emerald jacket, and buttons it with innumerable silver white buttons. Let us now select climbers to grow up over the window, to be planted at each side, close to the wall of the house. We need something that will endure the hottest sun without injury, for our wall is of brick, and a July sun against a brick wall is very often scorching. It will be too hot for honeysuckles Fe + im: $y es a 9928 BALCONY GARDENING. or woody-climbers, unless we shade them for several years, until they get well established, and can cover the walls with their leaves. Morning Glories would suffer, and N ee turtiums be dried up by the heat. We must have a stove climber, or certainly one which will endure great heat, and there is just the plant we need, and very common too, one withal with which the common complaint is it does not flower. We can, however, flower it, and if the season be long, ripen seed, for we have what it needs, heat. Let us, then, get two or more plants of the climbing Cobea (C. scandens). It is better to buy plants: than raise seedlings ; you thereby gain a month. The plant is a rank grower, with stout, herbaceous stems, and fine thick foliage, and produces large, purple bell, or rather cupped flowers, all summer. These flowers are very showy, and with plenty of heat color finely. Set the plants in a rich soil, and be sure they have plenty of water; they are rapid growers, and will, in luxuriance, almost equal the famous bean stalk of the fairy tale. | A trellis must be provided; those of small wire are the best. Place it where you will, the cobea will follow, for the plant grows twenty feet in a season. There it will bloom and hang with long festoons of foliage, gay with BALCONY GARDENING. 229 purple blossoms and fantastic seeds. But give plenty of water; it is a thirsty plant, and in a situation like ours will drink largely. The first frost will, however, turn it black, so if we want the permanent climbers, the cobea will prove a good nurse for them. Plant them with the cobea; it will shelter them, but be careful not to let it kill them by its exhausting the soil, filling the box with roots, or twining around them. Now, we need climbers for the sides of our balcony, and they should be planted close to the outside of our box, and here we have a large list to choose from. Maurandia Bar- clayana, with blue, foxglove shaped flowers, is a little gem of a twiner; then there is M. rosea, with pink, and M. alba, with white flowers. These should be raised from cuttings, or plants purchased Seedlings do not bloom till late, and we wish flowers all summer. Then we have the large family of Nasturtiums, both the large and small flowered varieties; these all do well; then scarlet beans, morning glories, the pretty little cypress vine, the canary bird flower (Tropeolum aduncum), sweet peas, and that pretty vine commonly known as Madeira vine, which comes from tuberous roots, which may be any where procured. 20 TUNA AI Ee rE oIR Us Nr ei haere Sai Muh a Sah tek Migr Zou. BALCONY GARDENING. In fine, any of our annual garden Janeen, or the more tender green-house summer bloomers, such as Loasa, Ca- lampelis, Physianthus, and a host of others, will succeed. To fill our boxes we have now a host of annuals, biennials, and herbaceous plants to choose from; and here we are at fault. To give a list of all pretty and desirable, would exceed the limits of this work, and tastes and fancies differ so much that to select is difficult. Mignonette, Indian Pinks, Sweet Allyssum, Drummond’s Apel Phlox, and Nemophila, will please all. These from seed. For bedding plants, Verbenas and Heliotropes, and if you have room, a scarlet Salvia. For herbaceous plants, a Larkspur (D. /for- mosum is the best), Dielytra, and for early spring some clumps of dwarf Iris, and a plant of Bloodroot. We must find room for a few of the fine hybrid Gladi- olus; if we can have but two, let us choose Penelope and Brenchleyensis for vigorous growth and fine contrasts of color. Then a half dozen of the gay Tiger flower, of the two species, red and yellow, (T. pavonia and conchiflora) will occupy but little space, and make a fine show. Now, with one third of the plants we have mentioned, the largest balcony would be overstocked, and with a judi- cious selection all will be gay until the frost kills out-door flowers. 1 Load BALCONY GARDENING. 931 Then prepare for winter; dig over the boxes, pulling up roots of dead plants, being careful not to disturb perennials. And plant a dozen good hyacinths, fifty crocus, a few jon- quils, and a hundred snow-drops, for early bloom the next spring. When severe frosts come, cover half a foot of coarse manure over your boxes, laying down under its pro- tection your hardy climbers, such as honeysuckles, clema- tis, trumpet flowers, and wistaria, if you have them, or else mat them up carefully in straw or old bass mats. Now you have only to enjoy your flowers in the memory of the past summer, or in anticipations for the future, un- less, with us, you would have flowers in winter, and will devote an hour each day to window gardening, or study with us, in the next chapter, the Wardian Case. A alee ae | <7} SERIA ChSE, AND WINTER GARDEN | SESS CIES CHAPTER Xi CANNOT have a hot-house! I have no room ke a cold frame, and no suitable window for plants; yet the win- ter is long, with nothing fresh and green to cheer me. Is there no way I can grow flowers?” exclaims some one, almost in despair. (232) THE WARDIAN CASE. 23a Patience a while, my friend; this chapter is for your benefit. Flowers are so universally loved, and accepted every where as necessities of the moral life, that whatever can be done to render their cultivation easy, and to bring them to perfection in the vicinity of, or within the household, must be regarded as a benefaction. But in the midst of the smoke and dust of the city there is but one way to have real verdure, in the freshness of its original strength and life, and that is, by the culture of it in Wardian cases. Not only may many ornamental plants be thus preserved in full beauty in the midst of a dry, dusty atmosphere, but the rarer and more delicate forms of vegetation, which refuse the tenderest care under ordinary circumstances, readily submit to domestication, and manifest high develop- ment of beauty in these cases, if the requirements of their constitutions are severally fulfilled. It was in the year 1829 that Mr. Ward placed the chrysalis of a sphinx in some mould, in a glass bottle, covered with a lid, in order to obtain a perfect specimen of the insect. After a time, a speck or two of vegetation appeared on the surface of the mould, and to his surprise 20 * oops = 2 % va dh 234 THE WARDIAN CASE. turned out to be a fern and a grass. His interest was awakened; he placed the bottle in a favorable situation, and found that the plants continued to grow, and main- tain a healthy appearance. On questioning himself about the matter, the answers readily presented themselves, inas- much as air, light, moisture, and the other requirements of the plants, were contained within the bottle. This was the first Wardian case. The experiment was extended; the case was shown to be self-supporting, and admirably adapted to some kinds of plants. Further experiment showed that while the Wardian case, as an air-tight structure, was in many cases a success, yet for a great proportion of plants a change of air is necessary, and thus at the present time the Wardian case is simply a green-house on a small scale, ventilation and heat being provided according to the requirements of the plants grown. Ina close case some ferns will live and flourish; others will maintain their beauty for a time, and then perish. In a close case it is impossible to raise flowering plants of any kind, and whatever may be grown in such a struc- ture will be more or less drawn, spindling, and sickly. The class will usually be in a semi-opaque condition, from excessive condensation of moisture. THE WARDIAN CASE. 935 Let us, however, regard ventilation as a necessity. The Wardian case becomes a miniature green-house, and we can grow almost any thing. Before, we were confined to ferns, because of all plants they bear a damp imprisonment with wonderful patience; but now the field is open for the introduction of flowers of the choicest kinds, and by apply- ing heat, the working department of plant propagation may be carried on in-doors with success. In the design of an oblong, rectangular case, graceful outlines may be attained by the adoption of the following proportions: First, determine the general dimensions of your case; then, whatever is to be its length, let the width be nearly one half. If from right to left it is to measure thirty-two inches, let its breadth from back to front be fourteen or fifteen. The height of the glass sides should be the same 236 THE WARDIAN CASE. as the breadth of the case. Then to roof it, let the summit of the roof be formed of four sloping sides, surmounted by a flat top; and let the flat top be as much above the edges of the four sides as half the height of those sides; then you will have an angular object, pos- sessing as much grace as can be infused into the simple rectangular design. One side of the top should be fixed on hinges, so as to give occasional ventilation. The material for the frame may be metal or wood. Now, it will be better to have a stand made expressly for it, with four legs, and an elliptical arch of fretted work, to break the monotony of straight lines. The stand may be varied very much to suit individual taste; light work is more suitable than heavy carving. Of course, the prin- ciples of art may be applied to glass structures in many ways, so as to insure grace of outline. The above has only been given by way of example; every variation may be adopted, but it may be remarked that Boiron of aiae. temples, with many corners, and fancy convolutions, or any intricate design that may be adopted for a Wardian case, is more likely to produce puerility than grace. Let the form be simple, and the proportions symmetrical, and you will not hereafter fail to be pleased with your work. ‘ ¢ eee eee Waee TT Ae eee ee THE WARDIAN CASE. 237 : _ An ingenious mind will suggest numerous designs for e the purpose, and of these, built structures are always _ preferable to the mere glass dome or bell, as they can be ventilated and arranged with greater ease. am | In England, Wardian cases are often built in windows, - by removing a portion of the lower sash, and building 4 f into the room of the required size, with the top flat, | sloping, or domed, as fancy may suggest. In our climate 1a § this would seldom be practicable, for our winters would chill the plants ; it might do, however, for eight months tg ‘In the year. a _ The simple fern glass makes a cheap Wardian case; it is merely a common glass dish, with a rim, into which ‘i is fitted a glass dome or bell. It answers well for 238 THE WARDIAN CASE. ferns, but not for flowering plants, as the atmosphere is too close. Unless the pan is porous, proper drainage must be secured, and water must be sparingly given, as it can only, if in too ereat a quantity, be got rid of by evaporation, during which process the plant may be injured. The ferns best adapted to these cases are those that love shade, moisture, and a close air, but even with these a little ventilation should be given to prevent damping off. A flower pot, with a rim to receive a hand-glass, makes a nice little Wardian case; these could be obtained at any potter’s, could be made shallow, and are inexpensive. The common Florence flasks, in which salad oil is imported, make very pretty little cases for the culture of delicate forms of vegetation. A good way is, to suspend a row of them along a shady window; in some, grow terrestrial plants, in others, delicate water THE WARDIAN CASE. 239 plants. They may be half filled with soil, and the seed sown. The daily growth may thus be watched, and very many einteresting lessons learned. The flasks should be covered with a piece of oiled silk, so arranged that it can be removed for supplies of air and water. The only matter of importance in the management is, to keep the rays of the sun off, or only to allow them to shine very faintly, for a single hour’s exposure to a hot sun would bring destruction on the whole. It has been recommended that all Wardian cases -should have a double bottom, to insure sufficient drain- age, as the evil most frequently experienced is sodden roots, caused by standing water. This, though a good arrangement, is by no means necessary. The proper drainage may be secured by broken potsherds and char- coal, laid along the bottom to the depth of an inch. The water will, of course, drain into this, and may be drawn off by a little stop-cock under the case, and hidden by one of the legs. The depth of soil should not be greater than nine inches ; too great depth will give a damp, heavy soil, which will be uncongenial to the roots. It is also advisable to make arrangements for a com- =] ra EA Ne OE er Ae i ed ou ee 2) et Net (TE Foal boas! LEDUC CRIS SED Ray Vs SPE Mane ers OLA A ceee le rare eae 240 THE WARDIAN CASE. plete change of the plants at any time. It is, there- fore, not advisable to plant your case by filling earth directly into the table; unless, indeed, you grow your plants in pots, and plunge them in the soil, so that they may be frequently renewed. The best plan is to have zinc pans, one or more, according to the size of your case, fitted closely to the imside of the case; these may be planted and changed from time to time. One may have two sets, which can be renewed at a neigh- boring green-house, and thus a perpetual display of floral beauty may be obtained. However skilfully managed, a change of vegetation in the case may now and then be desirable, and it is easily effected by means of duplicate pots or pans. The frame of a Wardian case may be wood or metal; wood is least likely to be affected by sudden changes of temperature; metal is less liable to decay. The frame of our largest case is of bronze, but probably the best metal is galvanized iron. The pans should be of zinc or galvanized iron. The advantages of the Wardian case may thus be summed up: — You may grow in them many plants which a single day THE WARDIAN CASE. OLY of parlor culture would greatly injure or destroy, since they are impatient of a dry heat. Delicate ferns and lycopodia are at once destroyed by the dry atmosphere of our parlors, but develop, in full beauty, in a Wardian case. Again, you may succeed with them if you have but little sun. This must recommend them to residents of eae. where the sun often gives but little light in the parlors, being shut off by high walls, and where win- dow plants become weak and blanched, or are long- drawn, ugly specimens, with weak, sickly blossoms. Another feature of a Wardian case, which is a source of unfailing delight. All well know that a winter bouquet, as procured from a florist, in a few hours loses its fresh- ness and beauty, and a few days are sufficient to convert it into a dry, unsightly mass. If the bouquet be placed inside a Wardian case it will preserve its freshness for a long time. It is better, however, to arrange the flowers in a shallow dish of water, taking care the petals do not touch the water, as thus they would soon mould; if the stems are inserted in a dish of wet sand, or merely in the earth of the case, it will answer every purpose. Our only care with camellias is to place them on the surface 21 aes eee ee hey Tee DAD THE WARDIAN CASE. of the soil. The water in the dish does not become foul unless the flowers begin to decay; should this be the case, a little powdered charcoal will at once arrest the tendency. We have found many flowers to last very long in per- fection. Thus, camellias, two weeks; azaleas, from two to four weeks; daphne, ten days; allamanda, four days; the scarlet bracts of poinsettia, six weeks; heath, from one to three weeks; roses, five days; diosma (the green sprigs), four weeks; chorizema, one week; cyclamen, three weeks; mahernia, eight days; cinerarlas, two weeks; calceolarias, one week; pinks, ten days; heliotropes, and other thin-petalled flowers, three to six days; geraniums, from six to ten days; orchids, such as Cattleya and Oncidium, from six to ten days. Care must be taken not to have the case so damp as to cause mould to collect on the flowers ; experience will be the best teacher in this respect. AN very simple case may be constructed by procuring a shallow, round, glass dish, about two feet in diameter; set in this a glass dish two sizes smaller, and about three or four inches deep;' fill the outer dish with water, the inner with earth, and plant your ferns. Procure a THE WARDIAN CASE. " hemisphere of glass, large enough to cover the smaller , + dish, and to rest its rim on the water of the larger. ¥ The water prevents the admission of air, and the only a care is to see that it never entirely evaporates from 8 , the outer dish. Your case is done; and with a little ‘a ventilation, your plants will grow with a vigor and freshness unknown to you before. These common cases oa may be made of any size, and any clear glass will do as -acover. The lower dishes may be common stone ware, and the cover one of the glasses used by confection- Be ers to cover cake, or what is better, a common plain or tubulated receiver, which may be prooeed at any glass i ee ee ee —_ ~ oF ; SS cine, or of any dealer in chemical ware. FP Oe ee REL TT es . . By placid lakes, Deep i in the forest’s leafy shade, Wave-plumaged ferns and filmy brakes, In verdant tracery arrayed. CHAPTER XIV. N the matter of ven- ion of Wardian wis = cases, too little is un- “ag UA LAS derstood. Ferns, and a few kindred plants, may be grown in air-tight cases, but there is no objection to occasionally admitting air to a Wardian case. 7 ; (244) STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 245 The principal care necessary is to see that the case does not suffer from want of water. The moment the door is opened, or the glass raised, the moisture, which was suspended in the air, or condensed on the sides of the case, flies off, and an equalization of temperature begins between the air in the case and that in the room. That in the case soon parts with its moisture, and becomes dry and unfit to sustain the plants in health and beauty, unless the earth in the case is again watered. When too much water has been given (which is readily seen by the glass always remaining clouded), opening the door and admitting external air is necessary to the health of the plants. In this matter, experience will be the best teacher. Few cases are perfectly air tight, and usually enough air will be admitted through cracks and ill-fitting shades, for the health of ferns and lycopodia. The advantage of such cases is, that they are sufficiently close to exclude dust and noxious gases, yet admit of ventilation at times favorable for the operation. For cases made on the ordinary principle, that is, as close as ordinary workmanship will make them,the best plants are ferns and lycopodia, because these naturally love a close, moist atmosphere, and whatever facilities the ease may i 246 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. afford for the admission of atmospheric influences, such flowerless plants need less ventilation than most other _kinds; and- even in the case of flowering plants, those which prefer moisture and partial shade are the most suitable. Of course different ferns and plants require different culture, but most will thrive under one general system. The soil should be one part peat, one part leaf mould, one half part silver sand; small bits of charcoal should be mixed in. The soil should be broken, not sifted, and should be of such a consistency that when wet it should be crumbly, and not pasty. The materials should be well mixed by hand. We have also grown ferns successfully in a soil com- posed of one part peat, one part sphagnum moss, chopped fine, and one part silver sand. The planting of the case may be varied to meet the taste and fancy. The primary object is to secure perfect drainage; and for ferns, an admixture of broken pot- sherds with the soil permits a freer cineulanion of air around the roots, which conduces much to a _ healthy growth. If your case is large, and sufficiently high, a miniature STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 247 ees may be formed, with some graceful fern occupying the top, and the smaller kinds clustered at the base. Ina small case it is, however, not advisable to attempt any such effect, but to plant in rows or clumps. Care must be taken not to crowd the plants, nothing is gained by it. | Having selected our plants, place them firmly in the position they are to occupy; cut off all damaged and decaying fronds, being careful not to injure any young > shoots. Level or elevate the surface of the soil, covering or picking out any protruding lumps. If the plants are in pots, sunk in the soil, draw the earth over the rim of the pot, so as to hide it, being careful not to thereby bury the plant too deep. Now, as to watering. Ferns love shade and moisture, but this is no reason they should be shut up in darkness, or drenched with water, as is too often the case. As soon as the case is planted, give a slight watering with a fine- rosed watering pot, to settle the soil. Shade the case for a few days, giving free ventilation until the plants are established; if the case is open for a few hours each day it will be sufficient. Water thus whenever the soil seems to need it, which is easily known Bear Ril hk Pee Re re © ee ee ee Ne Eee Th ey a hy Were UTE NG Sa Sila Wigs ARAN Naas aL ets eh 948 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. by the appearance of the plants; the great danger is in giv- ing too much moisture ; the soil then becomes sodden, the young fronds decay, and the older fronds collect mould. The soil should at all times be moist, but never wet. As to general ventilation, when the plants are fully established: The requirements of different plants are so various that no rule of universal application can be given; flowering plants need the most, ferns and lycopodia the least. Light is essential, and a few hours of gentle sunlight are beneficial. The direct rays of a hot sun should be avoided. When the sun is on the case keep it closed, unless the soil has become too wet. Of course dead leaves must be removed, and all kept clean. Let us now consider the adaptation of the Wardian case to flowering plants. And we must frankly state that the ease does far better for the exhibition and preservation of flowering plants than for their growth. If you have a green-house, bring the plants forward there ; as soon as in bloom remove them to the case, sinking the pots in the soil, and they will remain a long time in perfection. In the selection of plants those with variegated foliage are to be preferred, as they are gay at all times. ‘ a STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 249 Gloxineas and achimenes grow and flower well, and are very beautiful ornaments; these we cannot otherwise grow in our parlors. Roses, pansies, and begonias thrive well, and bloom profusely. The grand point in the selection of plants is, to grow only those together which have the same requirements of light and moisture. Thus ferns and verbenas would never succeed in the same case; the moisture necessary for the former would be death to the latter. A very pretty stock of plants may be obtained from our own woods. All our pretty mosses and ferns, and most of our early spring flowers, thrive admirably. They should, however, have a case to themselves, as they do not thrive in company with rare exotics. These plants must be care- fully taken up, and all sods shaken off, preserving of course as much of the earth around the root as possible. The objection to transplanting sods with roots of choice plants in them to a Wardian case is, you of necessity get strong roots of rank grass, which eine so rapidly as to hide your ferns and mosses, and are also too apt to introduce slugs and worms, which destroy your rarer plants. We once lost a fine Maranta by a slug which we introduced in 250 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. some moss; but probably the fellow was unused to such luxurions living, for after searching for him in vain for several days (his depredations still continuing), we found him one morning dead under a half. nen leaf; his appe- tite had destroyed him. Our native orchids, the Arethusa, Pogonia, Cymbidium, and Orchis do well. The Trillium, so shy of cultivation, deigns to live and bloom, and many of our meadow and swamp plants thrive as if in their native haunts. And now for the selection of plants. Flowering Plants. Gloxinea Rosea Mutabilis. Rosy white. es Cartonit. Pink, white lines. ss Annulata Superba. Blue, white throat. Wb Grandis. Cream color, plum throat. ie Wilsoniz. Pink and white. ef Heliodorus. Blue and white. «Alba Sanguinea. White, rich, carmine throat. “Alba Grandiflora. Pure white. “ Maria Van Houtte. White and pink lemon throat. cs Sir Hugo. Violet purple. es Carlo Maratti. Violet, blue, and white. es Guido Reni. White, crimson centre. Achimenes Grandiflora. Rosy purple, white centre. es Longiflora. Deep blue. cf “ _ Alba. Pure white. a Picta. Yellow, spotted with scarlet. ce Ambrose Verschaffelt. White, marked with purple. Parsonsit. Salmon crimson, orange centre. STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. 201 Achimenes Meteor. Brilliant crimson. Edmund Bosseir. White and blue. Plants with Variegated Foliage. Begonia Rex, ee Sir Colin Campbell, “« sArgentea Superba, ¥2 Queen Victoria, ‘¢ — Makoy’s Victoria, es Funki, = Duchesse de Brabant, “< Margareticea, «s Picta, Plectranthus Concolor Pictus, Caladium Pecile, ae Marmoratum, ie Argyrites, Caladium Chantinii, « Hastatum, Se Bicolor, Croton Pictum, Dracena Ferrea, “6 Terminalis, Dieffenbachia Picta, Gesneria Zebrina, Maranta Regalis, “¢ Fasciata, “Alba Lineata, Tradescantia Discolor. Tall Ferns. Polypodium Aureum, Pieris Argyrea, Davillia Canariensis, _ Polypodium Appendiculatum, Grymnogramma Sulphurea, Gymnogramma Chrysophylla (Golden Fern), Gyinmhgramana Peruviana, (Silver Fern), Myriopteris Elegans, Nephrodium Molle, ke “© (var. Corym- [bosum), Nephrolepis Davilleoides, Blechnum Pectinatum. Dwarf Ferns. Pteris Hastata, Polypodium Vulgare, Asplenium Adiantum Nigrum, Asplenium Trichomanes, Adiantum Cuneatum, ce Concinnum, “Affine, Blechnum Gracile, Lomarea Nuda, Asplenium Belangerii, ~ Davillia Bullata, Hypolepis Repens, Pieris Tricolor. 252 STOCKING AND MANAGING WARDIAN CASES. Lycopodia, or Selaginella. Apoda, Argenteum, Denticultum, Delicatissimum, Densa, Africanum, Wildenovit, Microphylia, Paradozica, Lobbi, Stonolifera, Cesium, Schotit, Atroviridis. Lepidophyllum, Climbing Ferns, dc. Lygodium Scandens, Lycopodium Cesium Arboreum. Plants for Baskets. Tradescantia Zebrina, Pothos Argyrea, Hoya Bella, Torrenia Asiatica, ZEschynanthus Boschianus, Linaria Cymbalarea, sf Zebrinus, Ficus Repens. « = ‘Pulchra, eS a = is . Ls « is we HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. Woe CTLARPTER (XY. HANGING BASKETS AND SUITABLE PLANTS, AND TREAT- MENT OF IVY. HAT a pretty amusement is the growth of plants in hanging baskets or ; pots! It is very popular, and deservedly so. The beauty of the baskets, now fashioned in so many artistic designs, is almost sufficient to inspire a love of hor- , ticulture, if only for the sake | of growing the plant in so pretty a pot. Yet we cannot urge the growth of plants in these bas- kets; a porous pot is essential to the health of a plant, and most of these baskets are china, or glazed or painted. Yet they may be used by setting the pot containing the 22 254 HANGING BASKETS AND PLANTS. plant inside of them. Another objection is, that having no outlet for the escape of the water, it collects in the bottom, and, unless there is very ample drainage, which is seldom the case, the roots are rotting in water while the surface is dry. Potting in these vases is very simple. If the plant must be in the vase or basket, fill half full of broken potsherds ; on these place a thin layer of moss, and fill up with pre- pared soil; shade the plant for a few days until well estab- lished, then hang it in the window, and water slightly every morning with a fine-rosed watering-pot; as the plant erows, dispose the branches to fall gracefully over the pot. The plants most suitable for baskets are, — The Common PERIWINKLE (Vinca Major and Minor), and the pretty variety with variegated leaves. This is an evergreen, and produces its pretty blue flowers in spring and early summer. There is also a white-flowered and a double variety. Lystmacu1A Mummutarta (Money Wort). A pretty little trailing plant, with dark, glossy leaves, and a pro- fusion of dark yellow flowers in June. This plant should be in a shady window. Linarta CyMBALARIA (Coliseum Ivy). , THE WALTONIAN CASE. rag a | soiling of hands, wetting of feet, or anxiety about frost and mats; and the most serious part of garden economy is brought within a lady's reach and the merest beginner’s unripe judgment. . The small size of the case may seem to be against it, but it will perform such an amount of work, when well man- aged, as to meet the wants of most amateurs. Geraniums, Fuchsias, and Calceolarias, may be rooted safely, and in quantities sufficient for ordinary wants. ‘‘ Hardening off” the plants is simply removing them from the heated centre to the borders of the case, as they become well rooted, and thence to a cooler frame, or grad- ually to the window. The cuttings, if more than one in a pot, may be trans- planted to separate pots in the usual manner. In all other respects there is no difference in the manage- ment of seeds and cuttings in a Waltonian case from that employed in a common hot-bed. And now to make a cutting. Usually it is very simple. Take off a portion of the partially ripened wood (if too soft or young it will damp off, if too hard or old it will, not put forth roots); cut it horizontally, or slanting down- wards, at a joint, or just below a leaf; it being for verbenas, DATA THE WALTONIAN CASE. ¥ fuchsias, and heliotropes, from an inch to two inches long. Plant it half its length in silver sand and loam, along the sides of the pot, and put the pot in your case. As a rule, take all cuttings of soft-wooded plants at a joint. | Some hard-wooded plants, such as Heaths, and Epacris, are rooted from tips of young shoots, in sand, with no bottom heat. Gloxineas, and Begonias, are rooted from leaves. Place the leaves in silver sand, keeping it moist, and pressing them close on to the sand. A plant will always spring from the junction of the leaf and stem, and frequently every nerve will produce a plant. The Waltonian principle may be applied to the Wardian case, and thus many rare hot-house plants may be grown in the parlor. CUA PTH Ree VAL. THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. Proportion of Animal and Vegetable Life. — Form.— Construction. — Di- med sions. — Situation. — Oxygenation. — Sunshine. — Planting. — Plants suitable for the Parlor Aquarium.— Limnocharis Humboldtii.— Pro-. curing Plants.— General Directions. T is not within the scope of our present work to treat of the general ‘construction of NI nN, i) Ry}, (ees [hase Va Aquaria, or their man- -agement in relation to their living tenants. Equally out of place will it be to treat of the growth of ~ algee, or sea weeds, or the inhab- itants of marine or salt-water aquaria. ==" We can only consider the aquarium, at present, as a means of growing in perfection, in the parlor, meadow and water plants, leaving for others the pleasing duty of describing animate life in connection therewith. (273) Sarkis O74 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. It is well, however, to understand that no aquarium does well unless stocked with some forms of both animal and vegetable life. The goodness of the Creator has, in Nature, proportioned the one to the other, each consuming what is injurious to the other, and both together working with that admirable adaptation which ever characterizes the works of God. We must, in our imitation of the great provisions of Nature, in an humble way, provide as she provides, and so proportion our animal and vegetable life as t6 give health and beauty to both. For this reason a few of the smaller fish, and a quantity of snails, should always be introduced into our aquarium, to preserve the proper balance by con- suming surplus vegetation. THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. Die The best vessel for an aquarium is, doubtless, a tank of a rectangular form, constructed of glass, with a slate bot- tom, and mounted on a stand made for the purpose. The simpler the outline the better, because, where we have but a few broad sheets of glass, the view is less ob- structed, and light, the great essential of success, can pen- etrate te every exposed part of the collection. In Figure 1, the dimensions are as follows: Back and front, three feet; ends, one foot four inches; depth, one foot six inches. The bottom is of slate, and the four sides are of plate glass. Four turned wooden pillars unite the four sides, and four similar pieces bind the whole along the top edge. Fia. 2. If shallower water is required, a square tank, say two feet four by two feet four, and one foot deep, would be suitable, as shown in Figure 2. 276 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. The weight of these tanks, when filled with water, is very great, therefore strength is a matter for consideration. The joints must be strong to resist internal pressure, and the table firm enough to bear the weight. The slate bot- tom and ends must have suitable grooves to receive the glass, which should be heavy plate or very thick ‘crown. White lead putty may be used; there are, however, many kinds of water-proof cement equally good. _ The most elegant outline of straight lines and right angles will be attained by giving the tank the form of the double cube, in which the length is exactly double that of the width, the width and depth being equal. A window is the proper place for the aquarium. An abundance of light promotes the growth of the plants, and secures that succession of tiny globules which the vegetation sends up from the bottom, and which in the sunlight rise rapidly to the surface. This is one of the prettiest features of an aquarium. These bubbles, which ascend from some plants in continuous streams, are globules of oxygen, and are produced by the plants which decompose the water into its elements, retaining the hydrogen for their own growth, and liberating the oxygen. When there is no sufficient exposure to the sun, none of THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. , 277 this aeration takes place; the oxygen of the water is exhausted, the plants become diseased, and the aquarium is a failure. The difficulty is, to give sufficient light, without affording too much. 3 | Occasional sunshine, if gentle, is essential, but if the water een heated, the vegetation will be injured and the Fail: life be destroyed. A shade, sufficient to admit the light, but to retard the fierce rays of the sun, will be beneficial. Ground glass, or oiled paper, may be used; in fact, any thing that will admit light without heat. Suppose we have constructed our aquarium. The bot- tom may be formed of loam and sand, or of small pebbles and sand, in which almost any aquatic plant will flourish. In planting, remove a few pebbles, lay out the roots, and, by replacing the pebbles, hold them in their place. For ordinary tanks, almost any of the common aquatic plants found in brooks or ponds will be suitable. It is an interesting fact, that the coarsest plants soon adapt themselves to circumstances, and that their growth becomes more delicate. The common Pond weed (Pota- mogeton) appears too rank a plant for an aquarium, but in less than a month its character becomes changed ; 24 278 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. it throws out delicate white roots, sheds its coarse foliage, and acquires a-smaller, neater, and more delicately veined dress of leaves, and is a beautiful plant. The same may be said of the pretty Starwort (Calli- triche), which acquires a lovely emerald hue and a neat erowth. The Callitriche (C. aquatica) of our streams differs some- what from the European, but is a very pretty plant. The flowers are minute and solitary, but the leaf is very orna- mental. It is a pretty little annual; grows in Roxbury, near Boston. | The Limnocharis Humboldtii is a splendid water plant ; an exotic, and producing bright yellow flowers in abun- dance all summer, of the size of a half-dollar. It is probably more easily grown than any water plant, for, though a green-house inhabitant, our parlors would be quite warm enough for it in summer. The pretty white Lily (Nymphea odorata) of our rivers and ponds will do well, but needs a large tank. The same may be said of the beautiful blue Lily of the Nile (N. cerulea), which will even bloom out of doors in summer, but which: requires care and heat to carry it safely through the winter. This and the Limnocharis, ee THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 279 together, make a splendid show. They may be obtained at many of our green-houses. The Vallisneria Spiralis, or Tapegrass, is a very pretty plant in an aquarium, and flourishes well. It is a common inhabitant ot slow rivers, and its flowering and fructifica- tion are very curious. [ ma ] \t a mh ee €allitriche or Starwort. Vallisneria Spiralis. The Anacharis Canadensis, a common inhabitant of our streams and ponds, is by no means the homely plant, in an aquarium, which its name implies. The name signifies “wholly unattractive.” It will do well in any situation, and 280 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. erow very beautiful as its foliage becomes adapted to the case. Pace Plantago, or Water Plantain, is a pretty plant, with varying leaves, some round, others ovate, cere oblong, and producing small whitish flowers. It is found very plentifully in ditches. a "| a = ee = Myriophyllum Spicatum, The various species of Myriophyllum, or Water Milfoil, are rapid growing plants. Of these, the best are IL. spica- twm, a common inhabitant of deep waters, and M. ambi- guum, with its varieties, a native of ponds and ditches. The many varieties of Potamogeton, or Pond Weed, are THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 281 all pretty plants, of easy cultivation. Those most com- monly met with are perfoliatus, fluitans, natans, and heterophyllus. They bloom above water, and need constant thinning, or they would occupy the whole tank. Potamogeton. The pretty Sagittaria, or Arrowhead, producing its spike of white flowers in August, should not be overlooked, or its near neighbor on the river shallows, the Pickerel Weed (Pontederia Cordata), so conspicuous for its purple flowers from July until autumn. 24* 282 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. The Water Star Grass (Scholleria Graminea), is a little grassy plant, producing its pale yellow flowers in summer. The growth is wholly beneath the water, the flowers only coming to the surface. | The Water Buttercups (Ranunculus Aquatilis. and Purshii), the former with white, the latter with yellow Ranunculus Aquatilis. flowers, are beautiful aquatics. The divisions of the foliage of the former are particularly graceful and pretty, and no lover of beauty who has once grown it would be without it. The pretty Water Violet (Hottonia Inflata) is a little py yt etches eb aS ae THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 283 gem of a plant; the leaves are curious, and the flowers rise on a stem whorled at the joints, and are at once interesting and ornamental. All the Bladderworts (Utricularia) are pretty and com- mon plants. U. inflata and vulgaris are the most common. But we are sensible of the difficulty of giving any thing like a complete list of the many natives of our ponds and streams adapted to the aquarium. These we have mentioned are, with the exception of the exotics, to be found every where, but there are many others equally common, and no less beautiful. Our advice to the amateur is, go to the nearest pond or stream, transplant what seems to you suitable, and watch their growth and development. You will find enough to admire in what are called our commonest weeds, for the many species of water plants have been sadly neglected, and their beauty is not appreciated. Some bloom above, some below the water; some pro- duce foliage floating on the surface, others have it suspended in the water. New plants will give you new beauties, and you will the more reverence the ‘power of the Creator, by the study of these, his almost unknown works. ak ne arnt IE Te aierant eo st Pyare Ee tena cre wt 984 THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. As we have before said, the great element of success is proportioning the quantity of animal and vegetable life. The usual rule is, two fish to every gallon of water, with snails to eat up any slime or refuse. If well | managed, the water need never be changed. . To attain this, you must use only healthy plants, and not too many of them, and have the bottom of clean pebbles and sand. If the water evaporates, it’ must of course be re- newed, and should it become stagnant, it may be aerated by turning portions of it from one vessel to another. Of course if decay of the plants takes place, or animals die in the water, the only remedy is to empty, thoroughly cleanse all, and begin anew. The Wardian case and aquarium may often be very prettily combined by raising rock-work in the water, planting ferns, and other moisture-loving plants upon it, and covering the whole with glass. Where access to water can be easily had, a fountain in the centre might be contrived, and the effect would be most beautiful. There is, however, a water plant which will thrive very well in the parlor, and require but little care. THE AQUARIUM AND WATER PLANTS. 285 About the middle of November, procure a large bowl, or _wide-mouthed vase, or, what is better, one of those fancy stands, representing the trunk of a tree. Fill it with water, and in it set a plant of Sarracenia Purpurea, the com- mon side-saddle flower, or pitcher plant, of our meadows. This plant is not only remarkable for its curious pitchers, but.is very ornamental in flower. With this treatment it will soon begin to grow; young leaves, or rather pitchers, will be produced; the flower buds will appear, and all winter the plant will be a mass of fresh foliage. The only care is to keep the leaves clean, and to refill the bowl when the water evaporates. In conclusion, let us say, that in all the details of management there is no teacher so good as experience. In a volume like the present we can only lay down gen- eral rules. The little minutiz, the daily care, the cease- less routine of attention, on which success $0 largely depends, we cannot prescribe. Each amateur will find those rules suited to his own case by experience and practice; but we trust we have, in our limited space, said enough to urge upon all to undertake the study of water plants, and the care and pleasure of an aquarium. The radiant blossoms, ever smiling, turn To gaze up to the Heaven. CE VAGE yas Eu sexe alot HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. before. closing this portion of our vol- ume, for there is no department of flori- culture so generally neglected. To grow a plant, and to grow it well, are two very different things; the former may be done by the mere tyro, who simply pots his (286) HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 287 _ plant in good soil, and supplies water enough to keep it in vigorous growth; the latter is one of the highest arts of horticulture, and very few of our professed gardeners un- derstand any thing about it. The general ignorance on this subject is the more surprising, as all are ready to admit the beauty of a well- srown pier and to decry the long-jointed, straggling specimens, so often a disgrace to our collections. Yet we see our green-houses filled with illy-grown plants, poor, drawn specimens, struggling up to the light, and crowned by a bunch of bloom, on stems several feet long, and entirely destitute of foliage. All this is doing violence to nature; in their wild state, free and unconfined in the open air, most plants and trees are symmetrical pictures of beauty. Nature does all things well, and art but approaches perfec- tion when it approximates to nature. Could our green- houses be ample enough to allow to each plant the same space and conditions of growth which it obtains in its native climate, could we allow free room for both roots and branches, each plant would be a specimen meeding only the free use of the knife to repress and prune out too great luxuriance. Nature would do all the rest; a tree would develop into a tree, and when roots I88 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. and branches were, by a growth of a series of years, prepared for the development, the display of flowers and fruit would equal that of the same species in its native clime. In like manner a bush, herb, or annual would attain all its full luxuriance and proportions, and the art of growing speci- men plants be simple indeed. But our space is limited, the luxuriance of roots and branches must be restrained, and the plant, by the cramping of the roots and pruning of the branches, forced into early bloom. The desideratum is, ~ therefore, to obtain as much bloom as possible in a small space. The question, — How is this to be done? we answer, — By growing specimen plants. It is a prevalent error that an illy-grown plant produces more bloom than one well-grown; the former may come sooner into bloom, but the flowers will neither be as fine or as plenty as on the latter. There are two methods of growing specimen plants: one by confining the plant within a ine frame, and tying out the shoots so as finally to hide it completely with foliage and flowers, or by tying the shoots to stakes cause them to assume a regular position, which stakes are soon hidden by the foliage. The other method is, to grow the plant slowly, so that the shoots become stout and stiff, J AR na aia «eae a a — ah clin Re a a Se ag En One et ae aa ene nS Te he HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 289 the plant bushy, and able to bear the weight of bloom and foliage; the former is best for climbers, or half- climbers, but is much used by those who grow their plants quickly ; the shoots are weak, and without supports the plant would have no shape; the latter is the true way, but the plants must be grown slowly, as otherwise the requisite stoutness cannot be attained. The one tule to be observed, whether in growing speci- men plants for exhibition or for home decoration, is, Grow your plants slowly. We copy a few hints from an English work, where the author condemns growing plants with supports, but acknowledging that thus more blooms may be brought into sight, declares it necessary in competing for prizes, as the plants thus grown bear carriage well, which those naturally grown do not. The distinction observed in his remarks is between plants naturally grown or raised for home decoration, and those artificially supported or grown for exhibition. We have also, in many instances, changed the language, and made many interpolations, in order to adapt the article to our own locality; we wish, however, to give due credit to the writer, though in some things his statements are erroneous: these we have corrected. 25 naar URN FEAT eG! Be MUA eI PU Ne eR ARON OR Or CEM he MeL SSE 290 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. The great difference between growing plants for home decoration and for exhibition will hardly be realized. There was always an opposite mode of treatment required in many particulars, but the system of showing has become so widely opposed to judicious management at home, that gardening for the home and the foreign department affect us like two different sciences. The necessary preparation for transmission from one place to another, and constant jumbling about, has converted all our natural plants into artificial ones. Not one produc- tion in a hundred is shown in its natural form. We can excuse this when we remember that plants have to be taken for miles, jumbling up hill and down dale, over rough roads and stone streets, before they reach their destination, and then have to be got into the carts and got home again the same day; for, if the branches were in their natural state, playing freely in the air, they would be frayed to destruction by the mere action of rubbing against each other. But we must own, at the same time, that a plant, with every branch and piper constrained in its place, and bound mechanically to some formal sup- port, is no more fit to compare with one fairly grown and unconstrained than an artificial plant would be with "ary — a ee HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 291 a real one. It is to the ambition of growers to produce enormous plants that we trace the great change which has taken place in our exhibitions. There is as much difference in a plant | grown properly, and standing undisturbed in its place at home, and one grown artificially in an iron cage, as it were, and all the branches and blooms bent about so as to come to the outside surface, as there is between the sham flower and the real one; and he who for one moment gives himself the trouble to think of the formal, stiff, and unnatural shape of plants at a show, and the beautiful free growth of the specimens in a private collection or a nursery, where there is no showing, will not hesitate to pronounce those at a show altogether spoiled for the lovers of plants. Nevertheless, those at a show form masses of flowers, which in some measure compensate for multitudes of wooden legs and iron bird cages. Geraniums, as for- merly exhibited without sticks were very beautiful, far before any thing we now have as specimens of growth, though the prodigies of the present day rank far higher as specimens of mechanical ingenuity and skill. The system is altered; plants naturally grown would stand no chance against those with wooden legs; the plants could 292 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. not be as large, nor could they show so many flowers. with- out being drawn. As now shown, they are always drawn, and legs or supports are given them because drawn plants cannot support themselves. — This mode of exhibition is a perversion of the nature of the plant, and we can see no remedy for it unless it is in the power of the judges to control it by giving the pref- erence to plants naturally grown, and without legs or supports. In our remarks we do not, of course, mean to include climbers, half-climbers, or trailers; we only censure growing | azaleas on hoops, pelargoniums on sticks, et id omne genus. The best growers freely acknowledge that props are objectionable, for the reasons we have given above, but they are necessary while size remains so captivating as it is at present, and he is the best artist, we cannot say gardener, who can make his props the least conspicuous. The cultivation of plants for show, then, involves an early and intimate acquaintance with the use of supports, and in proportion as a man acquires this, he becomes care- S less as to whether his plants are drawn or not. He Mi stops his plants back that they may make more shoots HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 293 than usual, or than is graceful, because he wants all the branches he can procure to make a surface of flowers, and as soon as the plant assumes any thing like a mod- erate size, twigs are placed to guide them outwards or upwards, and at equal distances; for all the harm it would do, he might almost roll the plants about the floor, without pers a shoot or leaf. As the plant advances beyond the distance provided for by the sticks or twigs that support them, others must be placed there for as much more growth as the specimen is likely to make. This applies to all kinds of plants grown by propping with wooden supports,—roses in pots, fuchsias, pelargoniums, geraniums, to many of the hard-wooded plants, verbenas, petunias, and many others. There is yet another unnatural and yet popular mode of growing plants for show. We have seen complete iron frame-works or cages, and inside these the plants, such as Rondcletia, Hovea, Eriostemon, Chorizema, and many other plants of great merit, crowded, the stems dis- torted all manner of ways, totally destroying the nature of the plant, concealing its habit, and contriving to bring just the shoots through upon the surface. It is true these cages are made of a conical or a pyram- 205 eS UR TPP UR TIRE aie titer cer BECO MR ATM CL Stead ane Rr IND oraD ra EH et ieeaiiaae eyes aah nur ING SU yea ot ra ate ate Sab air a RAGE Nie deliv aii sek, SAH Udy i on 2994. ©. HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. idal form, and by gardeners of taste, as near the natural form of the plant as may be, and that sometimes the shoots are allowed to protrude as far as they safely can, q to break some of the stiffness which too many have not the ability to conceal; but constraint seems to be the prevailing appearance, and some of the most graceful of our favorite plants are thereby rendered artificial. The growing of plants for exhibition is, under these circum- stances, almost a science of itself, and the chief evil to | | avoid is that of allowing the specimens to get ahead of the training, whatever that may be. Strong supports for the centre branch, and very little else, will do if they | are to remain at home; but for exhibition, the several | branches must be supported independently, with upright props of wood, until the specimens have attained, within a season or two, the requisite size; then they ought to have their principal shift, and their “cages” must be put to the Pot Onn shui, amas the branches trained to the outer wires instead of to the uprights. By keep- ing this frame well within the rim of the pots with regard to size, and allowing for the growth of a few inches outside, the plants will soon conceal the obnox- ious appearance of the frame, because in many plants HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 295 even these shoots may be stopped back, and the lat- erals make all their growth outside. It is at this time, when we may at least either prune back irregularly, or leave the peeee growth to make its a way, that a good deal of the stiffness may be got rid of, and some approximation to nature be made. LEpacris, Hovea, Chorizema,\and many other plants which are naturally weak in thei branches or straggling in their growth, being assisted up to a certain point and then allowed to push naturally, may be produced much better even in constrained growth, and may, to unobservant specta- tors, appear to show a fine natural cultivation. The more robust heaths, ixoras, and many other hard-wooded plants, can be well grown without much support, if not grown too fast; but if too fae excited, they will be weak, and need props in plenty, instead of here and there one. | The Fuchsia, which is a favorite exhibition plant, may be grown very rapidly, but always at the ex- pense of quality. The fuchsia, for style and appear- ance, as well as for the full development of the capa- bilities of a variety, should be grown in a pyramidal or conical form, and full of branches. They may also | 296 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. be well shown, and with fine effect, as standards, with an umbrella-shaped head,—a mode of growth specially adapted for showing off the drooping flowers. This mode requires much care ; it is very difficult, unless the plant is grown on a wire frame or hoop. To grow fuchsias well and effectually the plant should not be hurried. It should be strong in the main shoot, and not be so weak as to require a prop. It should, at the end of the season, be allowed to rest ; as soon as it indicates a desire to grow it should be re-potted, not in too rich a compost, and be pruned with short branches at the bottom, shorter as we go upwards, till they are mere spurs when we get half way up, and tolerably close at the top. By growing the plant gently in the green-house, the branches of the season will be multiplied greatly, and with a very little checking, form a beautiful close cone or pyramid (according as the plant has been pruned), full of foliage and bloom, and with colors in perfection. The fuchsia will also grow well as a bush. We have, to do this, to stop the cutting when it is two inches high, and to continue stopping all growth which is too vigorous, and all early growth, directly two eyes can be left, so that by inducing lateral shoots we secure a bush in HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 295 miniature at an early stage, and need only shorten such branches as are getting on too fast for the re- mainder. All weakly shoots should be cut away close home, for they only weaken the rest and confuse the order; branches should not cross each other, nor should the plant get confused by reason of the number of branches allowed to remain. The habit of the variety under cultivation should be. studied, for there are many kinds grown which are worthless; a bad habit is seldom compensated for by a good flower, because the fuchsia depends for its value a great deal on habit. Prince Albert, Gem of the Season, Duchess of Lan- easter, Prince of Wales, Souvenir de Chiswick, Madame Sontag, and Venus de Medici, are all of fine habit. Few can equal them in this respect, while all may lay claim to most of the requisites of a good flower. Set them in pots, in moderate soil (not rich); and after this give them only water when they want it, and all the air and light you can. They will scarcely require a shoot to be lopped; so fine is their habit, that unless accident blighted the leader, they would be eee and at their season full of bloom. At the end of the year, when, as it were, they had done their work, they would {ioe 2) gpa ae 298 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. lose their leaves, and only require to be kept from the frost; they would want larger pots at the begin- ning of the year, all the side branches shortened, and if the leaders chance to be injured, they should be short- ened to a strong shoot, and that trained upward by a_ temporary support; but it is far better to save the original leaders. The next year’s growth would be better than the first. It would, however, be necessary to thin out many of the shoots, because they would otherwise be too thick and confused. They would be one mass of bloom from top to bottom, and models of what fuchsias should be; but they must be grown without heat the second year as well as the first, and as a gen- eral rule fuchsias should have no artificial heat; they should be grown in a green-house, though we have often seen them out doors; but the changes of weather are too severe for them, and though of brighter and firmer color, and more robust growth, they lack much of the grace and delicacy of tinting, which is so attractive in the fuchsia. While growing they should have plenty of “act and be shaded a little from the intense heat of our summer's sun. The white corollaed varieties are all of weak growth, and not adapted for specimens; the Pe So) ern pS Placid al Da ee i 6S a 7 i HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 299 double varieties are, many of them, of good habit, but are no favorites of ours; the best of all is Sir Colin Campbell. To grow plants for home gratification alone we need not be at half the trouble, and certainly produce twice the effect. We may allow them to grow without ex- traordinary support. They have at most to be removed on a hand-barrow from the stove or green-house to the conservatory, and the natural play of the branches for that short distance damages nothing. The shortening of branches, the training and general management, have reference only to their intended situations, and the prin- cipal thing to guard against is, not to excite any thing too much. Very few things bear growing fast; it always makes a greater distance between the leaves, and consequently the plant looks poorly. But this is of the greatest consequence, because more conspicuous when the plant comes into flower, for bloom depends upon the num- ber of branches in a given space, and if the branches and leaves are more distant, the bloom must be so likewise. This is shown very conspicuously in plants which bloom from the axils of the leaves, as fuchsias, epacris, and others of the same habit. Besides, com- HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. pactness is a great point in all plants; not when car- ried to. confusion, which should always be avoided, but when induced by moderate growth and judicious prun- ing and stopping. The Hovea, a plant very popular in England, but little grown in this country, is never seen in good condition; yet its treatment is very simple. We give, for illus-_ tration, the method of growing a specimen, and the rules apply to many hard-wooded plants of kindred nature and habit. It naturally grows fast in excitable compost, but can scarcely be grown with too little dung, or soil too simple, so it be healthy and clean. The earliest stopping, even when first struck as a cutting, is neces- sary; not more than the pair of leaves next the soil should be left, and the eyes, throwing out two lateral ‘ shoots, give us an opportunity of stopping both at the first joint, and thus obtaining from each two more lateral shoots, to be stopped in turn for the same number again, and so continuing until there is a per- fect bush; but the plant cannot be neglected many qj days. This constant stopping, until we have branches enough, will produce an excellent plant. It is, then, by taking off all branches that are in the way, and leaving — * a Pea Seo ee rN Ape py he ee HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 301 only such as will help to make a handsome plant, we may allow the growth to go on till they bloom; but after flowering, the plant requires pruning as regularly as a wall fruit tree, and the new shoots must be watched and regulated, and the same provision made for the. beauty and symmetry of shrub as was made in the first instance. Were the plant left to itself, and planted in a rich soil, it could be an to grow six or eight feet in a single season, and be altogether unmanageable in a season or two, because the bloom only comes at the end of the branches, and the long under portions are both leafless and flowerless. If a plant has thus, through neglect, become shapeless and unmanageable, the evil is past cure; the best thing to do is, to root cuttings and throw away the old plant; pruning would not remedy the evil, for eyes break reluctantly on old wood, and seldom with any regularity. To grow Heaths, as speci- mens, requires great care, and the study of the habit of the species. Some, like Epacris, run up to great length of branches; therefore, before we allow them to shoot their full length, we must, by stopping, secure plenty of them. In this one thing lies, also, the secret of growing fine specimens of epacris. 26 ER Wo NON er ates Moa 7 £ mae, ange PRR De isenabe tat ei ae 302 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. Others are naturally of a bushy habit, and require thinning out rather than stopping. But in all plants” we have to look well to the growing state when they are manageable, for a very brief neglect, only for a single season, will give us bare stems, naked under- growth, ill shapes, and often unhealthy plants, and the best thing we can do then is to strike the tops of the young plant for young stock, and to cut down the stems to within a -few inches of the pot, for the mere chance of their breaking and making fresh growth. There is, however, one method by which we may © occasionally convert an ugly plant, with long, naked stems, into a handsome standard; but there are few plants which look well under such a change. One of these is the Azalea Indica, in its numerous species. If there be one straight stem among them, cut all the others close down, and cut the branches of the single stem off up to the part where the head is to begin; top the shoot to cause a side growth, and the head will soon form well, but until the head is large enough to be proportioned to the height of the stem the plant will look poorly, and only be fit to remain in the plant-house. inst ill ai di Bag HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 303 Fuchsias of some kinds, particularly Corymbiflora and its varieties, naturally carry large bunches of blossoms, tassel-like at the ends of the branches. The best thing we can do is to remove all the side growth to the height we wish the head to begin, to stop all the other branches to two joints, until we get a sufficient number of branches to hang all round, and then to let them grow to bloom. The pendulous habit of the plant is favorable to this, and the blooms fairly weigh down the most obstinate of the shoots, so that the plant forms a pretty object. These varieties of fuchsia do not receive the atten- tion their beauties merit; probably because they do not bloom as freely as others with little care; but a well- grown plant is a conspicuous object in the green-house. They also bloom with us at a season when other fuchsias have not come — that is, from February to May. In growing plants for exhibition, we excite them to what we call perfection by restraint; for convenience of carrying, we limit thesize, and thus the number of flowers; to color, by unnatural means (this applies chiefly to out-door flowers); to compactness, by vicious training. Specimen plants may be made of hardy plants and shrubs, and of annuals. ‘The pruning and training must be adapted to ew ae ge 304 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. the habit of the plant; it is useless to fight against Nature. We may succeed in producing a monstrosity, but depart far from perfection. To all growers we say, study the habit of the plant, and be guided by Nature, never attempting to be Nature’s guide. Before closing our article, we wish to give a list of plants, which, generally neglected, make fine specimens. And first, the Camellia, a plant naturally. of most sym- metrical growth, with but little pruning will make a superb specimen. The Daphne Odorata, never seen in good condition, can, — by a free use of the knife, be made a beautiful plant. Azaleas will do well, and may be grown in almost any form. Acacias are mostly trees, and seldom make fine plants under pot culture. Planted out in the green-house bor- der, they grow large and look well. We may, however, except some of the shrubby species—as Armata, Grandis, and the newer kinds, which, being low erowers, do well in pots. Achzenia Malvaviscus: a favorite plant with us, and a superb sight when in fruit and flower. It possesses the advantage of being never out of bloom. The kin- HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. 305 dred species of Hibiscus are pretty plants, but not gen- erally grown. Allamandas, Kennedia, Stephanotus, Combretum, Rhyn- cospermum, and a host of other hard and soft-wooded climbers, grow to perfection on balloon trellises, and if the foliage is kept in good health, are pictures of beauty. Pelargoniums and Geraniums need only to be grown slowly, and ie be properly pinched to make side shoots, and are among the finest plants for specimens. Orchids need great care, and the growth is slow; but well grown, are most splendid when in bloom. Nothing can surpass well-grown plants of Cypripedium, Cattleya, Lelia, Stanhopea, Oncidium, and hosts of others. The ‘Cyclamen, in perfection, is most beautiful, and many of the Cape bulbs, in profuse flower and foliage, are very pretty. . We need not now explore the widely extended region of variegated-leafed and ornamental-foliaged plants. Those who have seen the Cyanophyllum, Rhopalas, Cordylines, Crotons, the many beautiful Caladia, and the unap- proachable and unique Alocasia Metallica, need not be told what magnificent plants are given us for specimens, and to tose who have not seen them, no words can 26% 306 HOW TO GROW SPECIMEN PLANTS. convey an idea of their beauties. In conclusion, we can give no time for beginning to grow a specimen; for soft- wooded plants, four or five months will suffice to make a specimen from a cutting; but many plants require years to approach perfection. ‘The general rules may be laid down thus :— Study the habit of the plant, and by it regulate your treatment. Grow your plants slowly, with plenty of light (except orchids, some ferns, and lycopodia), and free circulation of air. Keep the plant from sudden changes of temperature, and never let it suffer from want of water, or become pot bound. Do not be afraid to use the knife freely, — prune whenever necessary, whatever you may sacrifice. Grow your plant well first, and then the plant will give you the bloom. — cy @) ©, U) S : / _ DAAAS SR OC LOe OO ND — SEMI : MLE N64 pr ND SW OE Da NSE HE grass is wet with shining dews, Their silver bells hang on each tree, While opening flower and bursting bud, Breathe incense forth unceasingly. ~ CHAPTER XIX. OUT-DOOR GARDENING. — HOT-BEDS. Uses. — Time of Preparation. — Construction. — Size. — Sashes. — Manure. —Other Materials needed. — Height. — Materials for Potting. — Heat. — Planting. — Sowing in Bed. — Permanent Hot-Beds. — Watering. — Air- ing. — Protection. (307) = 3 PP te eet 308 OUT-DOOR GARDENING. 7 HE bright days of spring have suc- ceeded to the cold of winter. Day : by day the sun grows warmer, and in spite of the occasional flurries of Ay ee ee eee A SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. oon A fine tree, and beautiful, both in foliage and flower, blooming withal late in the season, is the Catalpa (C. syringafolia). It is, however, too large for a small garden, but yet is so beautiful, a space should be made for it near the Sues: Flowers in July, in large ter- minal bunches on the ends of the branches; white, -marked with purple and yellow, and deliciously fragrant. As a companion to the June Berry, we may have our flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), a beautiful native tree, whose flowers are surrounded by very conspicuous white floral leaves, which render the plant very attrac- tive, and which are succeeded in autumn by red ber- ries. The foliage also turns blood red with the autumn frosts. It is a small tree, occupies but little space, flowers when quite young, and should be more gener- ally cultivated. Kolreuteria Paniculata is a low tree, producing in August bunches of bright yellow flowers. It is but little known, however, or it would be more commonly grown. The foliage is handsome, and the flowers come out at a season when few trees are in bloom. It needs a rich soil, and a sunny situation. The Lilacs (Syringa), of which there are some twenty 332 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. varieties, and the Syringas (Philadelphus), are too well _known to need description; they are all pretty, and flourish in any garden soil. The Persian Lilacs are most suitable for a small garden. All these plants will bear any exposure and_ thrive, where other shrubs would dwindle and die. The English and Scotch Laburnum (Cytisus) are somewhat tender in the vicinity of Boston; they will, however, flower splendidly in a somewhat sheltered location; their golden chain of blossoms is very beau- tiful. se A few years since, one of the natives of the mountains of the Middle and Southern States was introduced to us by Messrs. Parsons. We mean that lovely serait Stuartia Pentagynia, which has safely stood our winters, and delights us each August by a profusion of large, camellia- like flowers, white, with purple centre. Plant this shrub, however small the garden; you will never repent it, for it will repay you a thousand fold. For a pretty, hardy tree, eminent for delicate foliage and ae blossoms, give us the Siberian Pea Tree (Cara- gana arborescens). It gives a profusion of pea-shaped SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. oan yellow flowers in May, and its foliage has a dark, healthy green hue until late into the fall. It is small, occupying but little space. There are other species; all are pretty, but many require to be grafted on a tall stock to show to advantage, as they are low, trailing shrubs. We must also ome Tree Peonies; there are many varieties, but, after the poppy-flowered and the double blush, they differ but little. They bloom in May, and are always ornamental; a little protection in winter is advisable, though not necessary. Hlizabeth and Roi Leopold are magnificent varieties. Magnolias are always favorites, and could we have but one species of flowering tree, this would be our choice. M. conspicua is the Yulan Tree, perfectly hardy, bloom- ing profusely about the last of April, producing large white flowers. J Soulangiana is about a week later; flowers, rosy purple. There are many hybrids from these two; all are worthy a place in the garden. MM. tripetala, the Umbrella Tree, is too large for small gardens, but where there is space, should be exten- sively planted; flowers large white, and very fragrant in June. = ve eat te re *, ok 4 aspera Ce Sas bt aug ait a a 304. SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. M. glauca is our own little swamp Magnolia, but it does poorly in cultivation; a damp soil, with deep loam, suits it best; it is an evergreen. M. Thompsoniana is a fine hybrid between the last two mentioned, and hardy. IM. macrophylla produces enormous leaves and flowers ; it needs liberal culture, but is perfectly hardy; the flowers are white, very fragrant, produced in July. M. purpurea or obovata is not hardy, yet if well pro- tected will succeed. Azalea Nudiflora and Viscosa are two fine native species, the former with pink flowers in May, the latter with white flowers in July. Both succeed well in any gar- den soil. The Spice Bush (Calycanthus), in its many species, is very pretty, and a general favorite. The flowers have but little beauty, being dull colored, yet their fragrance recom- mends them to all. All the species have ornamental foliage, and being low growers, are suitable for small gardens. “The whole plant is highly aromatic. The foliage of the purple-leafed Berberry (Berberis purpurea) is attractive and ornamental in the garden. It is a neat-growing bush, with yellow flowers and red berries. SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 335 A favorite with all is the Fringe Tree (Chionanthus Virginiacus), producing long fringes of white flowers in June; it delights in a rich, loamy, moist soil. _ The “‘ purple fringe” or Smoke Tree (Rhus cotinus) is too well known to need description ; it is very ornamental from midsummer * autumn, and does well with but little care. Colutea Arborescens is the Bladder Senna, and is de- serving a place in the garden, because it is always in bloom, and is withal very ornamental with its yellow flowers. We cannot say the Altheas (Hibiscus Syriacus) are favorites of ours; their recommendation is, the late season at which they bloom. The flowers are produced in August, and are of all shades between red, purple, and white, and , double and single. An old favorite is the Corchorus (Kerria japonica), always esteemed for its bright orange globular flowers, and conspicuous for its light, glossy, green wood. The shoots are, however, liable to be winter-killed, and should in autumn be laid down and covered with earth. There is a dwarf-flowering Horse-chestnut (Pavia Macrostachya) which makes a pretty ornament for a 336 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. lawn; the flowers are white, produced on long spikes. The plant produces suckers so freely it sometimes: becomes troublesome. | All the Tartarian Honeysuckles are to be recommended as garden shrubs, being equally ornamental, whether in flower or fruit. Of the Spireas, whose ‘“‘name is legion,” the best for! general cultivation are, — S. Opulifolia. Flowers white in June. S. Bella. Flowers pink in June. S. Prunifolia. Flowers white in May. S. Reevesti fVpl’. Flowers white in May and June. S. Callosa. Flowers red and pink all the season. The Snow Bell, or Silver Bell Trees (Halesia diptens a and tetraptera), are always admired; the former is some- | what tender in New England, however. They are small, a trees, loaded in June with white, bell-shaped blossoms. | One of our most beautiful small trees is the Sorrel Tree (Andromeda arborea). From July to September it is _ loaded with bloom, and a more attractive object cannot be found. It is suited to a very small garden. Who has not admired the Deutzia (D. scabra), as hardy as a Syringa, and far more beautiful, stretching out to SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 337 us its branches, loaded with white blossoms; yet, alas, they have no perfume! In the earliest days of spring, would we have a shrub in flower in the garden, we must have planted the white and purple Daphne Mezereon, and long before winter has departed, these little shrubs will be loaded with bloom. Before they have faded, we may gather a rich, golden bouquet from Forsythia Viridissima, and wreathe among them the flame-colored buds of the Japan Quince (Pyrus Japonica). There is also a white, a red, a double, and an orange variety of this last-mentioned flower, which to us is one of the early glories of spring. Our list of shrubs would be incomplete did we omit the Snowball (Viburnum opulus), and the Cranberry Tree (V. oxycoccus), both of which are ornamental in a high degree. These plants are botanically identical. One of our modern introductions, the pretty Weigela Rosea, is already common in the garden, and perhaps there is no shrub a more universal favorite, certainly none that will give a greater profusion of bloom. Our garden is, however, in need of some hardy climbing plants; we therefore give a list of fine species : — 29 338 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. Periploca Greeca (Virginian silk), a rapid grower, with curious brown flowers. Trumpet ‘Flower (Bignonia radicans), producing dull, — crimson flowers in August. Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia sipho), a fine climber, with large leaves and curious flowers. Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis Virginica); very useful for covering walls and fences. A rapid grower, and very ‘beautiful in autumn. The different species of Clematis are very ornamental. C. flammula, Vitacella, Virginica, and Azurea grandiflora, are the best. Honeysuckles are favorites with all, and our selec- tion from the many varieties would be Scarlet and Yel- low Trumpet (Lonicera Periclymenum and aurea), Dutch Monthly (Belgica\, Japan Twining (Japonica). And, lastly, the Chinese and our native Wistaria (W. sinensis and frutescens), which are alwavs favorites from their clusters of purple flowers. We must have some climbing roses. leet us, then, choose the pink and red Bousault for early bloom, and from the prairies, buyer of the Prairie, Baltimore Belle, Superba, Milledgeville, and Perpetual Pink. If we can SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 339 have but one climbing rose, let it be the Baltimore Belle. The Greville Rose is a fine, hardy species. Let us choose — For Hardy June Roses. Madame Plantier. White. Victor Hugo. Lilac. George IV. Crimson. Brennus. Crimson. Provence. Rose. Centifolia Cristata. Blush. Madame Hardy. White. . Globe White. White. Four Seasons. Blush. Unique. White. For Moss Roses. Common Blush. Rose. Cristata. Rose. Glory of Moss. Lucembourg. Crimson. Rose. Princess Adelaide. Red. White Bath. White. Multifiora. Rose. Etna. Crimson. For Hybrid Perpetual. Auguste Mie. Baronne Prevost. Rosy pink. Rose fine. Geant des Batailles. Crimson. Edward Jesse. Lilac Rose. L’ Enfant du Mont Carmel. Pur- plish red. General Jacqueminot. Splendid crimson. Lion des Combats. Scarlet. Jules Margottin. Carmine. Compte de Brobinskt. Crimson. Duchess of Sutherland. Rose. Caroline de Sansal. Flesh color. Baronne Hailez. Light crimson. Wilkam Jesse. Crimson. Light pink. Rivers. Rosy crimson. Portland Blanche. White. Marquise Bocella. Rosy blush. Sydonie. Madame Laffay. Rosy crimson. Mrs. Rivers. Flesh color. General Cavaignac. Light rosy crimson. Pius IX. Purplish red. Mrs. Elliott. La Reine. Rose. Lady Alice Peel. Rosy purple. Rosy carmine. 340 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. The treatment of roses in the garden is very simple. They need a deep, rich, well-manured soil, rather moist, but never wet. | In early spring they should be cut down to a few eyes; and, if autumn bloom is desired, pruned again in July. When the frosty nights come, and just before the ground freezes, lay down the shoots, and cover them several inches deep; or, in the case of June roses, lay them down and cover them with evergreen boughs. Take them up about the middle of April. Our lists of Bourbon and China Roses have been given in a previous chapter, and we have only to add to these a plant of the favorite Yellow Harrison and the Persian Yel- low, and a few plants of the little early-blooming Scotch roses, to have our rosery well stocked. Before closing this chapter, we wish to say a few words about a much neglected class of plants, the so- called Aperitan plants ; i. e., Rhododendrons, Kalmias, and Ledum. The proper soil is peat, leaf mould, and sand, in propor- tions of one half part of the latter to two of the former. The plants should be planted in a bed specially prepared, where they can be sheltered from the winter’s sun. SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 341 We do not propose to write a treatise on their culture, but merely saying there can be nothing more ornamental than a collection of these plants, to give the following list of varieties which have been proved hardy in the vicinity of Boston :— | Rhododendron Atrosanguineum. Intense blood red, fine foliage; one of the hardiest-and best. . R. Archimedes. Bright rose, light centre. R. Barclayanum. A fine, light blooming kind; good foliage; large trusses, of a deep rose color. R. Blandyanum. Deep crimson; fine. R. Chancellor. Finely spotted purplish lilac; good. R. Brayanum. Rosy scarlet, lighter centre; fine foliage; a very fine variety. . Correggio. Dark crimson; fine. . Delicatissimum. White, delicately edged with pink. . Due de Brabant. Yellowish white, spotted with red, semi-double. . Everestianum. Rosy lilac, spotted and fringed; a fine kind. . Leopardii. Rosy lilac, intensely spotted. . Giganteum. Bright rose, large truss; foliage good. . Nero. Fine dark rosy purple, spotted; fine truss. . Standard of Flanders. . Roseum Elegans. Fine rose. . Roseum Pictum. Rose, with yellow eye. . Grandiflorum, . Superbum, bela ser=climrelccli ole tn fe cee frst t=cleass| ass Late blooming ; fine rose-colored; good trusses. There are many hardy Rhododendrons, seedlings of R. Catawbiense, which are, perhaps, better adapted for 29% Bat 342 SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. general planting than those above mentioned. We describe a few kinds: — R. Ri. Catawbiense Album. Fine white. Catawbiense Album Elegans. White, with green spots; the best of the hardy light varieties. R. Grandiflorum. Blush, changing to white. R. Acubefoliam. Light lilac. R. Azureum. Blush lilae, distinct and fine. R. Bicolor. Rose; distinct white spot on upper petals. R. Candidissimum. Pure white. BR. Celestinum. Fine blush, yellow eye. R. Cerulescens. Lilac pink. R. Delicatissimum. Delicate blush, changing to white. _ R. Gloriosum. Large blush. R. Perspicuum. Clear blush. R. Purpureum Elegans and Grandiflorum. Fine trusses; clear, fine purple. . R. Grandiflorum (Waterers). Rose; fine truss. R. Roseum Splendens. Fine rose. R. Blandum. Pale blush, fine foliage. R. Guttatum. Clear white, distinctly spotted. R. Hyacinthiflorum. Very double and distinct. R. Macranthum. Blush white, tinged with pink. R. Multimaculum. White, finely spotted with red. R. Nivaticum. Pure white, yellow eye. R. Pictum. White; intense spot on upper petals. All the above are hardy enough to withstand a Canadian winter. Rhododendron Ponticum, and its varieties, are not hardy with us. Kalmia Latifolia, the fine mountain laurel, SMALL TREES AND SHRUBS. 343 is worthy a place in every garden. There are also varieties of the common Kalmia Angustifolia, or Lambkill, which are very pretty. K. Angustifolia carnea, pumila, and rubra, our swamp Kalmia, K. glauca and its varieties, stricta, and superba, are very ornamental. Kalmia Myrtifolia is a fine- acd variety. Alll these are perfectly hardy. The Andromedas are a very pretty tribe of plants; of these, the following are hardy: A. Catesbei, Floribunda, Mariana, Polifolia, and its varieties. The Ledum is a very pretty evergreen, and all its species are hardy. L. angustifolium, buxifolium, procumbens, in- termedium, latifolium,palustre, and thymifolium. These are all low-growing evergreens, and very pretty miniature plants. In June they are covered with small white ele come. _ We have heen thus diffuse on this subject, because it is one on which there is general ignorance; and large sums are annually spent in importing plants which never survive the first winter. All we have mentioned are perfectly hardy, and well adapted to our New England climate. CHAPTER XXII. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. . General Treatment. — Transplanting. — Propagation. — Dielytra.— Lily of the Valley.— Adam/’s Needle. — Larkspur.— Globe Flower. — Phlox. — List of Choice Varieties. — Canterbury Bell. — Hepatica. — Pink. — Frax- inella. — Cowslip.— Foxglove. — Day Lily. — Iris. — Everlasting Pea. — Lupin. — Ragged Robin. — Spirea. — Veronica. — Bloodroot. — List of fine Species. N THIS connection, we treat of all Tm il | se hardy -biennials and perennials, meaning plants which spring up for _ two or more years, blooming during Y the summer from yearly stems, which ving die down each autumn, the root, in . the case of biennials, dying after blooming, or, as with most peren- nials, living many years, and springing up every season. These plants are to be especially relied upon for the flower garden, because they require but little care ; in fact, they care for themselves. Give them the common garden (344) HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 345 soil, dig round them, to loosen the earth, each spring, and they will bloom. Yet a little care is well repaid by increased luxuriance of foliage and beauty of flower. In spring each clump should be examined, to see it is not too high out of the earth; there is a tendency with most of these plants to grow out of the ground. When this is found to be the case, take up the plant and re-set it. Transplanting should always be done in the spring; not but what these plants will live if removed in the autumn, but they will succeed so much better by spring planting, that that season is always to be chosen if possible. During the summer, if very large and fine bloom is de- sired, prune out all the weak stems. In the autumn cover the crowns of the plants with coarse manure or litter; if the plant is an evergreen, protect it with pine boughs from the winter’s sun. In spring, dig a few spades full of manure around each plant. . These plants are propagated by division of the root, which should be performed in early spring, just as the plants start into growth, or in the latter part of summer, When they have done flowering; this latter treatment is 346 HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. especially adapted for the Phlox. Every eye, with a bit of root, will make a plant. They also produce seed freely, and seedlings usually bloom the second year. We give a list of species, with short descriptions, men- tioning the plants in the order in which they are adapted to general culture, considering them as flowering plants. Distytra Sprctariiis. This beautiful plant is one of the most elegant in cultivation, whether we consider its foliage or flowers. It grows freely, flowers well, and is subject to no insects or disease; and if, after the flowers have faded in the spring, the stalks are cut down, it will throw up a second set and bloom again. Perennial. Flow- ers, rose and white in May. Lity oF THE VALLEY (Convallaria Majalis). This lovely flower grows alike for the rich and poor. It does well in any rich, loamy soil, and thrives in shade or sun. It pro- duces its fragrant white flowers in May, which are suc- ceeded by red berries in September. Perennial. Apam’s Nrrepie (Yucca Filamentosa). An evergreen plant, with strong roots and sharp leaves, of a very tropical aspect. In June it throws up a tall spike of white flowers. During the winter, cover the plants with pine boughs. They need a rich soil, and it is a good plan to dig, every fall, HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 347 well-rotted manure into the bed. Perennial. One of the conspicuous features near our house is a large circular bed of these plants. DeELPHINiuM HENDERSONII and Formosum. Two beau- tiful varieties of Larkspur. Flowers deep blue, with white centre. Produced a profusion from: July to November. - Perennial. TroLiivs Evropzus (Globe Flower). Fial Fe | A Sy CHAPTER XXIII. HARDY ANNUALS. Treatment. — Sowing.— Saving Seed.— Watering. — Mignonette. — Sweet Pea. — Asters. — Balsam. — Salpiglossis. — Abronia. — Nigella, — Agera- tum. — Coreopsis. — Sweet Allyssum.— Candytuft. — Clarkia. — Convol- vulus. — Eschscoltzia. — Lupins. — Portulacca. — Indian Shot. — Lark- spur. — Amaranth. — Gillyflower. — Schizanthus. — Zinnia. — List of Choice Species. — List of Climbing Annuals. — Cypress Vine. E CANNOT say these plants are favorites. With the number of fine bedding plants now easily obtainable, they are by no means so much cul- tivated as formerly. Yet there are some which are PAR e\* ae Be i Wetr,, aU AWK, (> SOs indispensable, many which are endeared by old associations, and many, without which our summer garden will not be complete. What can excel the beauty of the annual Phlox, the bril- liant contrasts of the annual Morning Glory, the dazzling (352) HARDY ANNUALS. Bie colors of the Portulacca, the fine-cut and curiously-marked leaves of the Schizanthus, the sweet perfume of the Mignonette and Sweet Pea, or the delicate pencillings of the Salpiglossis ! | The treatment of annuals is very simple; they may be divided into two classes. Hardy annuals, which may be sown in autumn and come up, ope Ane the winter and blooming early the next sum- mer ; or which may be sown in spring, in the open border, for summer bloom. Half-hardy annuals, which are sown after the ground be- comes warm in the spring, blossoming the same summer. This latter class may again be due according to the treatment required, into garden annuals and hot-bed an- nuals ; the former rapidly coming to perfection when sown in the garden, about the first of May; the latter requiring a longer season, and thus needing to be started and brought forward in a hot-bed, and then transplanted to the garden. Strictly speaking, annuals are plants which live but one year, that is, spring up, make their growth, bloom, and perfect seed in one season; but many plants treated as an- nuals may be preserved many years in a frame or green- 30 * “=. =e es oot HARDY ANNUALS. house, while at the same time in the garden they bloom and seed in a single summer, as for instance the Petunia and Nasturtium. Others, again, form tubers, which, if properly cared for during the winter, and planted out in the spring, grow again with vigor and flower profusely, and so on indefinitely, as the Four O'Clock (Mirabilis), the Commelina, the Se let Bean, and Salvia Patens. « There are, however, Some annuals which must be count where they are to grow, and which will not bear transplant- ing. Of these, our most familiar examples are Larkspurs, ~ Poppies, Candytuft, Lupins, Mignonette, Convolvulus, Sweet Peas. ; If, however, it is desirable to force these plants, they may be started im pots in hot-beds, and then turned out into the open ground, without breaking the ball of earth enclosing the plants. In the following list, we cannot pretend to give more than a few of the best species. Our descriptions are necessarily tat but we give, in as few words as possible, the name, color, season of blooming, and culture. Where we have been more diffuse, it has been because the beauty of the plant demands special notice. HARDY ANNUALS. 855 But first, a word as to sowing; the general fault is plant- ing too deep. No rule of general application can be given, for the proper depth must be regulated by the size of the seed. Lupins, Sweet Peas, and such large seeds, may be covered one inch, while very small seed, such as Portulacca, should be sown on the surface, and a very light covering of fine earth sifted ee it. The border for annuals must be finely dug, and the soil well pulverized and raked smooth ; if the surface is coarse and lumpy, most of your small seeds will fail. Hardy annuals may be sown in August, for early bloom the next season; or about the middle of April, for bloom in the latter part of the summer. Halthardy annuals may be sown in the open ground about the first’ of May. The tender species should be started in the hot-bed, sown either in pots or in the bed, about the first of April, and transplanted to the open border about the tenth of May, or when all danger of frost is past. If the plants come up very thick, thin out the weakest; you will thus give more room for the others, and secure a better and larger bloom. 356 HARDY ANNUALS. A word as to saving seed. It is usually ripe when the seed capsule begins to turn yellow ; it should then be gath- - ered, exposed in an airy, sunny place for a few days, to — allow it to become perfectly dry, and then put up in care- fully labelled papers. In purchasing seed, buy nothing in ‘* fine mixed varieties,’ unless you wish the refuse ; for one good you get a dozen poor kinds; learn what you want, and buy only that. Again, select the best varieties, and buy only those; a poor variety occupies as much room as a good one. In autumn, when the frost has killed down the plants, pull up the old stalks, and clear up the border, for the season’s work is done, and the next spring new seeds will give you new plants. Watering, which is sometimes needed by delicate grow- ing species, should be given from a fine rosed watering-pot, either early in the morning or late in the evening. MigNonetre (Reseda Odorata). Sow in the autumn, very late, when it will vegetate the next spring, or early in April. Flowers, greenish white all summer, of an exquisite fragrance. Where this plant has once grown well, it will come up year after year, without further care, from self- sown seed. oa oe ald "I HARDY ANNUALS. si Sweet Pea (Lathyrus Odoratus). Sow as early as possi- ble in the spring, in rich soil; the flowers are pink, purple, white, and variegated. Grows from two to five feet high, blooming from July until killed by-the frost. They may be trained on strings or a trellis, against a wall or fence, or on neat pea sticks ; we prefer the latter method. | Astrers, Chinese, German, or French (Callistephus Chinensis var.) A long treatise might be written on the different varieties of this beautiful flower. All the kinds should be sown in a hot-bed about the middle of April, and transplanted to the garden about the middle of May. A pretty effect is produced by planting in a bed, setting the plants one foot apart each way. Colors, red, white, blue, pink, and all possible shades. ‘The flowers are also ‘‘ quilled,” or ‘‘ peeony flowers.” A rich, deep, rather moist soil suits them well. The best varieties are Traffaut’s new Peony Flowered, Chinensis, Dwarf Chrysanthemum Flowered, German, Pyramidal, Hedgehog, and Ranunculus Flowered. Batsam (Impatiens Noli-tangere). Flowers white, flesh color, pink, red and purple, spotted and striped; blooming from June to October. Treatment the same as for Asters. SALPIGLOSSIS ATROPURPUREA is properly a green-house 308 HARDY ANNUALS. plant, but does well started in a hot-bed in April, and transplanted into a highly manured, sandy loam. Flowers of the different varieties, purple, white, straw color, and beautifully marked. It may be kept in the green-house for years, if not allowed to seed. Blooms from June to Sep- tember. ABRONIA UMBELLATA, a beautiful little trailer, ‘atl heads of fragrant rose-colored flowers. Grows well in light, rich soil. Sow in frame in April, or in open border in May. NicEeLua Hispanica and Damascena (Love in a Mist). Very free flowering plants, with curious seed vessels. Colors, white, blue, purple, yellow. June to October. Sow in the garden in May. AGERATUM Mexicanum. A class of pretty summer flowers, growing freely in any soil. Blue and white. June to September. This is often used as a bedding plant, and propagates freely by cuttings. Sow in open border in May, or in frame in April. ! Coreopsis, in its many varieties, with yellow, crimson, and brown flowers, all summer. Sow in May, in open bor- der. These plants will come up for years where they have once been grown. - AutyssumM Maritimum (Sweet Allyssum). Flowers HARDY ANNUALS. 359 white and fragrant, resembling miniature Candytuft. Sow in open border in April. It will come up, year after year, from sclf-sown seed. : Ipreris Oporata and UMBELLATA (Candytuft, and vari- eties). Fine, hardy, free-blooming annuals, with white, red, and purple flowcrs, from June to August. Sow in open border in May. Crarkia Enrecans and varieties. Hardy annuals, bloom- ing from June to August. Sow in open border in May. Flowers white, rose, and purple. Convotvutus Minor. The pretty dwarf Morning Glory, with blue, white-eyed flowers, from June to Septem- ber. Sow where it is to bloom in May. : EscHoittzia (CHRysEIs) CatiFornica. Very showy plants, with yellow, orange, and white flowers. Sow in May where they are to bloom. Lurins, varieties. Flowers blue, white, yellow, and pink. Sow where they are to bloom in May. They will flourish in poor soil. Bloom from June to September. Porruutacca. Flowers white, red, scarlet, crimson, yel- low, and variegated. We know of no better plant than this for a hot exposure. It blooms from June until killed by the frost. Sows itself, and comes up year after year. 360 HARDY ANNUALS. Canna Inpica and varicties (Indian Shot). A tall plant, of tropical aspect, with light green leaves and yellow | flowers. There are many fine varieties, which are very ornamental. Sow in pots, in a frame, and transplant. The seeds should be soaked in boiling water before planting, otherwise they are a long time vegetating. Soil, rich deep — loam. Blooms from July to October. The roots may be kept in the cellar, and re-planted in the spring, when they will make finer plants, and bloom earlier. The following are fine varieties :— C. Warscewiczi2. Brilliant red. C. Nobilis. Red. C. Annew. Crimson. C. Angustifoha. Light red. C. Gigantea. Scarlet yellow. C. Aurea Vittata. Golden. C. Limbata. Scarlet and yellow. C. Sellowix. Scarlet. C. Bicolor. Red and yellow. DrELPHINEUM Agacis (Rocket Larkspur). A popular garden flower. Sow where it is to stand, in August, for the next year’s bloom, or “a April. Colors, red, blue, white, and purple. Blooms from June to September. GoMPHRENA GuLoposa (Globe Amaranth). A fine plant, needing to be brought forward in the hot-bed. Colors, purplish red, white, and orange. Blooms all summer. ‘The flowers dried form pretty winter bouquets. a ieee HARDY ANNUALS. 361 Maruioxa (Ten-Week Stock). The annual varieties of the Gillyflower are very pretty summer blooming plants. They should be sown in the hot-bed in April, and trans- planted with care, for they bear it poorly, owing to their long, fibreless roots. Flowers white, purple, red, and yel- low all summer. ScHIZANTHUS Pinnatus. Very ornamental little plants, with red, white, purple, yellow, and variegated flowers. They should be started in pots, in the frame, and carefully transplanted. Bloom from July to October. ZINNIA ELEGANS FL PL’. The single Zinnia was an old favorite in the garden, but is now completely eclipsed by the fine double varieties. The seeds should be started in a frame in April, and transplanted in May. They grow to a large size, and produce a profusion of red, yellow, and pur- ple flowers, as large as a rose, all summer. They are among the most ornamental plants of the garden. The following list includes many fine species, all of which are worthy a place in a large garden. Acroclineum Roseum. Open border. Bartonia Aurea. Frame. Didiscus Caeruleus. Frame. Cacalia Coccinea. Open border. Annual Chrysanthemum. Open Amaranthus Tricolor. Open border. border. Mibiscus Africanus. Open border. ol 862 Erysimum Peroffskianum. Open border. Browaillia Elata. Frame or border. Gilia, in variety. Frame or border. Anagallis, in variety. Open border. Lavatera. Open border. Calendula Officinalis. Open border. Brachycome Ibiridifolia. Frame or border. Callirohe Pedata. Frame, in pot. Antirrhinum, in variety. Frame in pot. Four O Clocks. Martynia Fragrans. Open border. Frame. Centaurea, in variety. Frame. Godetia, in variety. Open border. Nolana Atriplicifolia. Open bor- der. HARDY ANNUALS. Clintonia Elegans and Puichella. b Open border. Perilla Nankinensis. Frame or — border. Helichrysum, in variety. Frame or border. Collinsia, in variety. Open border. Phlox Drummond. Frame. Fihodanthe Manglesi. border. Frame or Scabiosa Atropurpurea. Open bor- der. Silene or Catchfly. Open border. Tournefortia Helvotropoides. Frame or border. Linum Grandifiorum. Frame in — pot. Petunia, in variety. Frame. The following are climbing annuals, adapted for covering walls or trellises. They should all, except the Ipomeas, be started in pots, in the frame, and turned out into the border about the first of May. IrpomMEA Quamoctit is the pretty, graceful cypress vine. The seed vegetates with difficulty. Delay planting until about the first of June, then choose a very hot noon. Plant a the seed where it is to stand, ina large circle, so a pole © may be set in the centre, and strings led to the top from the - plant, for this is the prettiest way of growing it. Then wan HARDY ANNUALS. q take a large water-pot full of boiling water and water the i : seed. Under this treatment it will often come up in ? twenty-four hours. _ Tropeolum (Nasturtium). Open border. _ -‘Thunbergia. Frame in pot. _Maurandia. Frame in pot. -Loasa Lateritia. Frame in pot. Ipomea. Open border. Convolvulus Major (Morning Glory.) Open border. Cobea Scandens. Frame in pot. _ Cardiospermum (Balloon Vine). Open border. ee tat ae - Adlumia Cirrhosa (Mountain Fringe, or Traveller’s Joy). Open border. CHa ER xy. BEDDING PLANTS. Propagation. — Gazania. — Verbena. — Lantana. — Heliotrope. — Calceola- rias. — Geraniums. — Petunias. — Cuphea. — Feverfew. — Nierembergia. — Salvia. — Tritoma. S COMMONLY used, this general term is given to plants which are winter inhabitants of the green-house, but which, if planted in the garden, bloom profusely all summer. They are generally green-house peren- nials, but among them are included many plants which bloom late in the summer, from seed sown the same spring, and of which fine varieties are propagated by cut- tings. As examples, we may mention petunias and ver- benas. The treatment of these plants is very simple; about the middle of May turn them out into the flower garden; they (364) BEDDING PLANTS. 365 will grow finely, and give profuse bloom. In August take off cuttings, and root them in the green-house, or in a frame for your winter’s stock, unless you wish to preserve the old plants; if so, leave them in the garden until just before the frost comes; then pot them, and winter in the ereen-house, parlor, or conservatory. It is, however, always a good plan to have a stock of summer cuttings. Some species, as Scarlet Geraniums, and Erythrinas, are win- tered in a dry state in a cellar, secure from frost, and again set out in the spring. We describe a few of the principal plants coming under this head : — GazANIA SPLENDENS. During the past season this plant has attracted considerable attention as a new and desirable bedding plant. Its recommendations are, its small size, the brilliancy and number of its flowers, and the rich contrasts of color; it is also a plant of easy growth, and small plants soon become vigorous specimens. The colors are rich orange yellow, a circle of black, banded and mottled with white and brown or choco- late at the base of the petals, the centre a reddish orange ; foliage dark green. In form, the flower some- what resembles a small sunflower, or chrysanthemum. 31 is 366 BEDDING PLANTS. The present variety somewhat resembles the old G. uniflora, differing from it in its dwarf habit and com- pact srowih : the branches are sometimes erect, but bend down with the weight of the flowers. The contrast of the orange yellow, black, white, and chocolate in the flower, produces a most brilliant effect. The culture of this plant is very simple; it will do well in almost any soil, and produces flowers in profu- sion, from early spring until late in the autumn. It is not dried up by the heat of summer, or affected by atmospheric changes, but flowers throughout the season, closing its splendid flowers during the night, and opening them during the day. It is well adapted for pot cul- ture; its growth is vigorous as well as neat and clean, and it is not subject to the attacks of red spider and other troublesome insects. There are about forty species of the Gazania, of which most are unknown to our gardens; all are natives of the Cape of Good Hope. As a bedding plant, this variety is invaluable; plant in early spring, and take up just before the first frost. VERBENA. We have treated so fully of this plant on previous pages that further mention is unnecessary. As BEDDING PLANTS. 367 a bedding plant it is unsurpassed. If planted in a com- post of peat and leaf mould it makes rampant growth, and gives flowers of great size and brilliancy. Lantana. This is a showy, shrubby plant, of easy culture in any garden soil; the flowers are in small, rounded, or flat trusses, resembling in form a verbena. It may be wintered in a light cellar. The following are fine -kinds :— L’ Abbe Leautier. Yellow, shading Victoire. Pure white, yellow to crimson. eye. Lutea Rosea. Fine yellow, shading Speciosa. Orange scarlet. to white. Lilacina. Lilac rose. Delicatissima. Fine rosy purple. Alba Grandiflora. Fine white. Hetiotrorr. In addition to varieties mentioned in a former chapter, we can recommend, — Miss Nightingale. Deep violet. Jean Mesmer. Very light blush, Reine des Heliotropes. Violet and Beauty of the Boudoir. Dark. lilac. Flore. Violet, light centre. La Petite Negress. Very dark, dwarf. CaLceoLaRias. The shrubby varieties are very orna- mental during the whole season. The following are good : — Queen of Oude. Orange crimson. Prince of Orange. Orange and Sulphuria. Yellow. brown. Gen. Outram. Bronze scarlet BEDDING PLANTS. HorsEsHoE GrERANIUMS. The following are fine varie- ties : — Perfection. Scarlet flower ; variegated foliage. Scarlet Globe. Scarlet; white eye. Shottesham Pet. Cerise scarlet; variegated foliage. Golden Chain. Scarlet; variegated foliage. | Annie. Brilliant scarlet; variegated foliage. Duchess of Kent. Scarlet; white eye. Bijou. Scarlet; variegated foliage. Princess Alice. Pink. Pretunias. As we have before said, the fine varieties are always propagated by cuttings. The following are fine kinds :— Countess of Ellesmere. Scarlet; white eye. Victory. Dark crimson. Flag of America. Striped. General Mc Clellan. Purple and white, double. Miranda. Purple and white. Solferino. Purple, double. Blonde. White, carmine edge. La Reine. Violet rose. — CupHra PLatycEentRA, of which we have before spoken, makes a fine bedding plant. DovusLE WHITE FEVERFEW is fine for garden culture. NIEREMBERGIA. A delicate little plant, with fine foliage, and salver-shaped flowers, covering the whole plant. aa Ae 4 : : + ra eee em ey hs te ee TY BEDDING PLANTS. 369 NV. gracilis, flowers blue and white. WN. grandiflora, pure white, very large. } | SALVIAS are indispensable for autumn bloom: the two best are those we have before described — S. splendens, with scarlet, and S. patens, with blue flowers. Tritoma Uvanrta is a stately-growing plant, with reedy leaves, throwing up a tall spike of crimson orange flowers. It must be preserved in the cellar in winter. The variety Glaucescens is not so highly colored, and Serotina blooms late into the extumn. _ In addition to these, the various kinds of Carnation and Picotee Pinks, Tea Roses, Pansies, Daisies, Ageratum, Lychnis, Bouvardias, Anterrhinums, Gaillardia, Lemon Verbena, and Lobelia, can generally be obtained at the green-houses. All these make good summer-blooming plants. CHAPTER XXV. \ HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. Preparation of Ground. — Planting.— Protecting. —Summer ‘Treatment. — Tulips.— Crown Imperial.— Guinea Hen -Flower.— Anemones and Ranunculus. — Col- chicum. — Dog Tooth Violet. — The Lily. — Preparation of Soil. — Species. — Tiger Flower. — Dahlia. — Tube Roses. — Gladiolus. — Am- aryllis. AR THE greater part of the Dutch bulbs, which we have so fully de- scribed in former pages, will, if planted out in the open border, and slightly covered with manure, endure the winter, and bloom in spring or summer. The 8 species and varieties have already been de- S = ee e e i e scribed. Their out-door treatment is very simple. Select a warm, sunny spot in the garden, where good drainage can be secured; trench this about eighteen inches deep, digging in a liberal quantity of well-rotted cow manure, and enough pure sand to make the soil rather HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 371 loose. This being done, about the first of October plant the bulbs in lines and circles, or as may suit the fancy. _ The usual fault in planting bulbs is not setting them deep enough; they are often thrown out by the frost. Hyacinths should be planted four inches deep; Crocus, two inches; Iris, three inches; Snowdrops, two inches; Jonquils and. Narcissus, three inches. The bulbs planted, a good covering of coarse manure and straw should be laid over the bed about the first of December, or just before the ground freezes up. In the spring, say about the first of April, rake off the straw. The bulbs will be found well up; the blanched stalks _ will soon turn green, and an abundance of bloom will follow. After the leaves have died down, if you have fine varie- ties, it is best to take them up, and keep them in a dry place until the season for planting comes again. The gen- eral practice is, however, to allow the bulbs to remain in the ground, where, if undisturbed, they will bloom year after year. This treatment is suitable for Hyacinths, Crocus, hardy Gladiolus, Iris, Jonquils, Narcissus, and Snowdrops. The PotyantHuus Narcissus, of which we have before spoken, are not perfectly hardy; the bulbs live, but 372 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. they make too early a growth, and are usually frost- 4 bitten. The culture of the fine varieties of the TuLip requires more care. A bed for choice tulips is prepared by excavating a pit a foot and a half or two feet deep; a piece of ground in an open, airy situation, and dry at bottom, having been chosen. In this pit a layer is placed of thoroughly rotten horse dung, at least two years old, and generally the remains of an old hot-bed, and the bed is filled in to within one inch of the top with rich sandy loam; old loamy turf, chopped fine and mixed with sand, and a little © rotten dung, is the best, ihibeed it can be procured. The surface of the bed is then covered with sharp or drift sand, and in this the bulbs are planted about six inches apart every way, and the bed is filled up so as to raise it about three inches above the surface, and to bury the bulbs about four inches deep. The bed should be highest in the middle, and slope to both sides, to throw off the rain. The bulbs are generally planted in October, and as the tulip is very hardy, it seldom requires any protection, unless the winter should be very unfavorable, either from severe frosts or almost constant rain, in which ~ case the bed may be protected by being hooped over, HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 373 and then covered with mats, care being taken to leave a part to open when the weather is fine. When the plants are near flowering, a frame should be placed round them to support an awning to shield them from the sun and rain. As the bed is generally four feet wide, the frame, which includes a walk round it, is about twelve feet wide; the length varies according to the extent of the ground, or the number of bulbs to be planted. When the flowers fall, and the leaves begin to turn yellow at the tips, the bulbs may be taken up and laid on shelves, with the root end uppermost, to dry. When the fibrous roots are sufficiently withered to allow them to be rubbed off, the bulbs may be placed in drawers or boxed, where they must be kept dry until the season for planting arrives. If the bulbs are not taken up they soon deteriorate, the flowers returning to the original red self-color of the species. The Crown Impertats (fritillaria Imperialis) are the most stately of spring bulbs. The varieties are yellow and red, single and double, golden and silver-leaved, and many named varieties, which do not, however, differ much in color from those above named. o2 They are all highly ornamental, and will thrive in any rich, deep soil. They are impatient of being disturbed, and a hen taken up should never be long kept out of the ground. The same treatment is required for Frittelaria Persica, a — E beautiful species, with glaucous blue foliage, and a large cluster of purplish flowers. FRITILLARIA MuELEacris is the pretty little Guinea Hen ~ Flower; there are also white varieties. The treatment above described for the crocus will suit it perfectly; it flowers about the middle of May. | AnrEMoneEs and Ranuncutus seldom do well in our celi- mate under open culture; our winters are so long and wet the tubers either sprout prematurely, and are killed, or rot in the ground. The hundreds of packages sold each autumn, at auction, are not worth the paper they are wrapped in. CoLcHicum AUTUMNALE is a pretty bulb, with flowers resembling a crocus, purple, white, striped, single and double; treat as a crocus. The peculiarity of the plant is, that the flowers are produced late in autumn ; and the leaves appear, ripening the seed, in the following spring. It is a very pretty and interesting plant. The bulbs are very large, and when once planted should not be disturbed. There are also spring-blooming varieties. HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 3875 Doc-tootu Viotet (Lrythroniwm dens canis); a most lovely flower, purple and white. It is very liable to die out, and should not be disturbed after being planted. The bulbs should never be kept long out of the ground. This little bulb is worthy of every care; its flowers are among the most beautiful and graceful in the floral kingdom. It may be imported for a few pennies per bulb, but cannot, to our knowledge, be obtained in this country. The loss on importations is about fifty per cent., from rotting and drying. Our woods produce a pretty yellow species, with beautiful foliage. It succeeds poorly in the garden. Tue Liny. This isa large family of ornamental bulbs; many of them are hardy, and indisnensable in the flower garden. The plants will grow in any garden soil, but a little attention will be repaid by greater luxuriance and more abundant bloom. | The proper soil is a compost of one part loam, one part peat, one part clean sand, and one part leaf mould. _Excayate the soil for about two feet in depth, and fill in with the compost. The bulbs should be planted from three to five inches deep, according to the size. Autumn ve is 3876 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. planting is preferable. The bulbs, if kept long out of the ground, shrivel and are weakened; it is on this — account that imported bulbs so seldom flower well the first year. The soil should be frequently enriched, as the lily is a gross feeder, and will bear a large afnoent of manure: showing the effect in increased size of stem and leaves, and number of blossoms. During the winter the bulbs should be protected by a covering of coarse manure, and in summer a little mulch- ing placed over the bed, to protect the ground from the sun, is beneficial. The best species are, — — Inlium candidum, one of ‘he oldest ede flowers ; always a favorite, from its fragrance and beauty; too well known to need description. A variety with double flowers is destitute of beauty, and can only be regarded as a mon- strosity; the variety with striped leaves is desirable. L. | perigrinum somewhat resembles the last, but is botan- ically distinct. LZ. bulbiferwm is the common orange lily. L. longiflorum, a lovely species; flowers, pure white, very long, and fragrant; requires slight protection during the winter. Liliwm lancifolium album, L. I. roseum, L. 1. speciosum: These three lilies are generally HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 3TT known as Japan Lilies. The former is pure white, and is a plant of most vigorous growth, the stems often pro- ducing from ten to twenty flowers; it is as hardy as the common white lily, and like it, will grow in any good garden soil. ‘To produce the flowers in perfection, a rich, deep soil, as above directed, should be prepared, and the _ bulbs planted at least one foot from each other every way. The growth of the other two varieties is weaker, but the flowers are of surpassing beauty; deep rose or red, all spotted and rough, with brilliant shining points, resembling so many gems. Treatment for all the varieties is the same. There are many fine seedlings. L. Japonicum, a variety with large, white, bell-shaped flowers, resembling L. longiflorum. Treat as the last two_ species. L. monadelphum, a pretty species, resembling in growth the Martagon family,— sometimes called the Caucasian Lily, from its native country ; flowers, yellow spotted, drooping. Will grow in any garden soil. LI. Philadelphicum, one of our native species, commonly called the Blackberry Lily. Soil should be rather sandy; flowers deep red, spotted with black. LI. Canadense, another fine native variety, with light 32 * 878 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. orange and yellow drooping flowers. It improves wonde fully in cultivation, often throwing a stalk five feet in : height, bearing twenty flowers. as B L. superbum, our finest native species; flowers orange — ee reddish, with numerous spots; drooping. Succeeds as well : as L. Canadense in cultivation. 1G, Martagon, fine varieties, with white and pane flowers ; very ornamental, and hardy, if the soil is rather — _ sandy. : 3 L. chalcedonicum, the Scarlet Martagon; one of the most highly-colored species; hardy, and worthy of a place in every garden. | a L. testacewm, or excelswm, a beautiful species, growing from two to four feet high; flowers in terminal umbels, yellow or straw color, with faint red spots. It should be planted deep, as the bulb makes roots both above and below ; perfectly handy: L. Thunbergianum, a showy, orange red variety, from Japan; hardy. a L. auratum is the new Golden-banded Lily, just intro- duced. In size and markings it is the most beautiful of the family. It will probably prove hardy, but as yet is very rare. . HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. 3879 We have now to say a few words about summer bulbs, or tubers, which have not becah mentioned in former chapters. Tierrpia (Tiger Flower). This is a beautiful class of Mexican bulbs, of easy culture, producing showy, spotted flowers all summer. The most common varieties are 7. _ pavoma, rich scarlet, spotted with black; 7. conchiflora, yellow, spotted with black; 7’. syeciosa, a hybrid between these two species, and partaking of the character and color of both. TZ. Wheelerw, a seedling from conchifiora. The ‘‘ blue Tiger Flower” is not a Tigridia, but Phila- callis plumbea. THe Dania. This once popular flower is fast falling into unpopularity, and will soon be consigned to oblivion. It has seen its best days, and has been compelled to give place to the Gladiolus, Hollyhock, and Double Zinnia. It is hard to find what could have given the Dahlia its © popularity. It has no grace of growth or flower, is a coarse, rank-growing and smelling plant, and beyond a certain mechanical rosette arrangement of petal, has nothing to recommend it. Its culture is simple. Set the tubers in any rich, deep soil, and if the plants are not beaten down by high winds, and the season is long, and no early frosts Shee 380 HARDY AND HALF-HARDY GARDEN BULBS. a occur, you will have flowers enough. Preserve the tubers in a dry, frost-proof cellar during the winter. hati. a We cannot, when there are so many beautiful flowers, recommend any one to fill the garden with dahlias, but as ‘ some may fancy them, we give a list of a few of the best. : Baron Alderson. Buff, white tip. Mrs. Charles Kean. Yellow, tipped Fanny Keynes. Straw, crimson with white. edge. Dandy. Blush, crimson, ‘maroon, — Bessie. Clear yellow. Lady Popham. Blush white. | Queen of Whites. Pure white. Peerless. Yellow. Mont Blane. Pure white. Admiral Stopford. Dark maroon. Lollipop. Buff and salmon. Lady Franklin. Deep buff. Loveliness. White, tipped with pur- Vesta. Pure white. ple. | Preéminent. Dark purple. Pioneer. Crimson. Goldfinder. Deep yellow. Miss Vyse. White and purple. Lady Paxton. Crimson, white tip. Dwarf Varieties. Cupid. White, tipped with claret. Golden Bail. Deep yellow. Zelinda. Purple. Alba Floribunda Nana. White. . Captain Ingraham. Dark crimson. Victor Hugo. Crimson. Of Gladiolus, Tube Roses, and Amaryllis, we have _ treated fully in former chapters. NW ig) 7 NS ; nrweé Nia ONL SS \ y AVY Cee has Bee Ws ee SPRING FLOWERS, AND WHERE TO FIND THEM. E have promised to lead the reader into the woods and fields, there to gather the rich blossoms which Nature scatters freely; which grow and bloom with no care from the hand of man, and often, in beauty, grace, and (381) 382 SPRING FLOWERS, AND fragrance, surpass the most gorgeous inmates of our gar- dens. Scarcely have the March snows forsaken the sunny forest Hols, when the chilly winds are redolent with a strange perfume; it is unlike any other, — peculiar, — and calls up balmy memories of spring, and buds, and flowers. Whence comes it? ‘The maples are still dark and pray, in their winter’s sleep; not a crimson bud has yet dared to peep forth; and the willows, though glistening in the sunlight with their peculiar spring color (if we may so speak), still keep the downy catkins folded away beneath the sheathing bracts. Search the woods around, and if a stranger to woodland mysteries, a7 you have not that hidden sympathy with Nature which draws you to the flowers, your labor will be in vain. But brush away the fallen leaves, which have so tenderly warmed the earth during the long cold nights; see, amid tufts of rough roundish leaves, some dark green, some brown, disfigured, a blossom which seems delicately fashioned by fairy fingers, or a gem from Flora’s own diadem. Gather it carefully; it is the first flower of spring, the promise of the year, a token of sunny days and leafy woods, of balmy winds and smiling skies. The botanist WHERE TO FIND THEM. 383 will call it Hpigea repens; some, the Trailing Arbutus, and Ground Laurel, and others, again, Mayflower, —and all are right. We have no patience with the pedantry which would supplant our old-fashioned names, homely though they be, by learned Latinisms or musty Greek; though in this case the botanical name, signifying creep- ing upon the earth, is peculiarly significant. The plant is low-growing, hardly attaining the dignity of a shrub; it is covered with rusty hairs, has evergreen leaves, rounded and heart-shaped, alternate ; the flowers are rosy red or white. It is found in sandy soils, sometimes in rocky situations, especially in the shade of pines. We have never Known this plant to succeed well in cultivation, | though doubtless it could be easily grown with slight attention; certainly its beauty merits every endeavor. In England it is valued, and found in the Gatdlosues: of nurserymen. A fine variety has been ori- ginated, called EH. rubicunda, the flowers of which are larger than those of the species, of a rich pink, and the plant is quite hardy. . The Epigzea is found from Nova Scotia to the Carolinas ; there is but one species, — the one above described. Almost as early as the Epigzea, on the sunny hills, o84 SPRING FLOWERS, AND open the azure blossoms of the Hepatica, a pretty and favorite flower, always a welcome guest, and the next herald sent by approaching Spring to announce her ad- ; vent. On a bright sunny day, what can be more lovely than a tuft of these beautiful harbingers of spring, gazing with open eyes to the heavens! ‘*Blue, blue as if the sky let fall A flower from its cerulean wall.” The wild varieties are found of every shade, from a deep blue to pure white; the former are the most com- mon; we also find shades of pink and purple. There are two varieties, distinguished by the shape of the leaves, and named respectively, H. triloba and H. acuti- loba, of which the latter is the rarer; the two varieties sometimes run into each other. The common names are Liver-leaf, so called from the fancied resemblance of the leaves to the liver, and far prettier, Squirrel-cups. It is a delicate plant, the flowers always appearing before the new foliage, and pushing up in great numbers among the old leaves. The leaves are heart-shaped at the base, and divided into three or five entire lobes. This flower has been much improved by cultivation; we have spoken at length, in a previous chapter, of the double red va- be i Sal Ie 2 WHERE TO FIND THEM. 385 riety, which is a perfect gem of beauty; the double blue is very common in England, and is very desirable; the double white is very rare in England, if, imldedk: it be not lost from cultivation. Next, as the spring advances, we find the dry hills and pastures covered with the common Mouse-ear (Gna- phalium plantagineum). It is a plant of little beauty to the naked eye (though it develops finely under the mi- croscope), exhaling a rich spring fragrance. At seasons when flowers are more plentiful it would be passed by unnoticed, but in spring it is cherished as an added promise of sunny days. The barren and fertile florets are on separate plants; the former are white, with revolute segments and brown hee the latter are cylindrical. The warm on soon calls out, on the dry, rocky hills, the early Saxifrage (Sazxifraga vernalis). ‘The flowers are white, crowded,-arranged in corymbed panicles, and ex- hale a pleasant fragrance. The leaves are radical, spreading upon the ground, producing the flower-stalk or stalks from the centre. It is a pretty flower, a favorite of children, and we always welcome its advent. 33 386 SPRING FLOWERS, AND And now, as the days lengthen and the sun gains power, as May-day has come and passed, the woods and hill-sides bloom with countless blossoms. The grass, tak- ing an early start, has thrown up long green spires, and the hill-side grasses are already in bloom, and waving in the wind their delicate pollen-clad antlers. In the woods spring has come; the maple is lifting a censer of blos- soms, the willows by the stream are yellow with bloom; the poplars begin to expand their delicate green foliage, and the elms have already dropped their brownish-red blossoms, and hang with their greenish seed-vessels, among which the shootings of the tender leaf may be perceived. Myriads of birds make vocal all the forest aisles, and each woodland path is carpeted with flowers. From so many candidates for our favor, which or what shall we choose? | In the woods grow the Anemones, and peep from their borders at the violets, which make blue the fields beyond. Therefore let Anemones and Violets be our choice, — flowers loved and welcomed by all. How many associations cling around the Viorer! What pleasing recollections it recalls! Who is there that does not love it? It is a modest flower, never obtruding an WHERE TO FIND THEM. 387 itself upon us, except when its numbers make all the hill-sides blue, when he must be blind deen and insen- sible to floral beauties, who fails to notice it. About twenty species are natives of the northern United States, of which about thirteen are found in New England. The colors are white, blue, and purple, in various shades, and yellow. Those most commonly met with are,— Viola lanceolata (Lance-leaved Violet). This is one of our most common species; petals white, the lower ones slightly veined with lilac ; it is generally found in meadows. Viola blanda. Very nearly resembling the last, and often running into it; the leaves are roundish instead of lanceolate, and the flowers more fragrant ; color white. Between this and the last almost every variety of leaf occurs. Viola acuta; or primulefolia seems to be intermedi- ate between the last two; the flowers are white and small.