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TRORICS
A RECORD OF AN ORNITHOLOGICAL VISIT
TO THE
UNITED STATES OF COLOMBIA, SOUTH AMERICA
ANID) KO) IU e08 SIAN DY Oe CURACAO
WEST INDIES
IN THE YEAR 1892
BY
WIRT ROBINSON
SECOND LIEUTENANT, FOURTH U. S. ARTILLERY
\ <> my /
Sp f Wei
OF Washi
CAMBRIDGE
Printed at the litverside ]aress
1895
= Copyright, 1895, Phi tn
By WIRT ROBINSON. oe.
All rights reserved.
PREFACE.
PREFACES are written for various purposes. Sometimes they are
introductory, —they explain the raison détre of the book, they
define its scope, and perhaps outline the treatment of the subject ;
at other times they are self-laudatory, and impress upon the reader
that the work fills a long-felt want, and that its statements are
much more accurate than those of any other writer; again, in an
humble tone they are apologetic, beseeching that the work be not
harshly criticised. Should I make the last request in regard to the
following work, I am afraid that I would be but calling attention
to its failings. I am reminded of the story of the little boy who,
visiting an art gallery where there was a statue bearing the placard,
“Do not touch with canes or umbrellas,” took out his pencil and
added the words, “ take a axe.”
In a Preface it is proper and usual to return thanks to the vari-
ous persons who have assisted the writer in the preparation of his
work, and I should feel that I had been negligent in this respect
did I fail to acknowledge the help that the officials of our National
Museum have with great kindness extended to me.
It would be manifestly absurd should I attempt to criticise the
countries that I visited, seeing what a short time I spent in them.
My remarks must therefore be taken simply as observations of
individual occurrences, not necessarily universal. I will say that
IV PREFACE.
throughout Colombia I met with a courteous treatment that we
might sometimes look for in vain in many portions of our own
country.
If I have dwelt too much on birds, remember that the study of
birds is my hobby, that I went to the tropics for the purpose of
observing them, and I am therefore inclined to give more promi-
nence to them than to other objects. In my descriptions of them
I have endeavored to give an idea of their approximate size by
comparing them to some of our well-known birds. I have done
this because I have often found that, from never having seen a
specimen, I have had erroneous ideas of the size of some birds.
Thus, I had thought from the figures that the larger hornbills
were about the size of our crow, and, making an error in the oppo-
site direction, I supposed that a stormy petrel was the size of a gull.
The illustrations, with a few exceptions which are noticed in the
text, have been drawn expressly for this work or reproduced from
my photographs.
CHAPTER
I. THE Voyace .
Il. Tue Istanp or Curacao
III. Barranquilla
IV. THE MaGpartena RIVER .
V. THe Mote Roap anp GuADUAS .
VI. Back To BARRANQUILLA
VII. Curacao AGAIN
VIII. Resutts or THE TrIpP
IX. A Frew SUGGESTIONS
APPENDIX.
CONTENTS.
List of Works on Colombia
Maps
Colombian Zodlogy .
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Citron- BREASTED Toucan (Colored Plate) : : : : . Frontispiece
PoRTRAIT . : ; : : Y : A : : p F : j Beco
PorRTRAIT 2
PORTRAIT 3
“OuR BAGGAGE” . : : : 2 : : ; : : 4
Map sHowine Routes TO COLOMBIA ; 3 ; ; ; ; : : go
THE VENEZUELA 6
“Our PILOT WAS TAKEN OFF BY HIS Boat” : ‘ : : : ; eS
PortuGuEsE MAn-0’-WAR 9
YELLOW-BILLED Tropic Brrp . : : : : ; : , ; ; anak
Map or IstaAnp oF CuRAGAO : , ; ; P : ; ; : ; 12
VESSEL PASSING BETWEEN Forts AT NARROW ENTRANCE OF HARBOR OF CURACAO 13
Santa Ansa Harsor- (Map) . : : : ; : 4 : : : . 14
DutcH SOLDIER AT CURACAO : : : : : : : : ; : 15
DRAWBRIDGE ACROSS THE HARBOR AT CURACAO . ‘ 3 : ‘ ; Seles
DWELLINGS AT CURACAO. 5 : : : : : : : : : 18
Narrow STREET IN CuRACAO. é : : : : : : é : eel
Curacao LAND SHELL 22
CHLOROSTILBON SPLENDIDUS. ; ‘ ; ‘ : : ; : 5 b) BS
“Cactus ... TEN, FIFTEEN, AND EVEN TWENTY FEET IN HEIGHT ” : 5 24
Main STREET, Curacao . ; : : : : : } : : 4 5 5
From Curacao To Puerto Cotompia (Map) . : : : : d 26, 27
Tur SouTHERN Cross OF THE GEOGRAPHIES AND THE TRUE SOUTHERN Cross. 27
Map oF THE REPUBLIC OF COLOMBIA . j : : F ; : : Bhi Pte)
PuERTO COLOMBIA. : 3 : ‘ { : : : ; ; ; a). Gull
Hote, VicToRIA AND AMERICAN CONSULATE, BARRANQUILLA . : 5 ; 33
BARRANQUILLA FROM THE MARSH . : : E : ; ; : : 5 ia)
vill LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Market Court, BARRANQUILLA . ; ; 5 3 : :
Duc-OutTs ALONG THE MARKET FRONT . : F F ; 5
Tur SAVALO OR TARPON
CoFFEE SELLERS, BARRANQUILLA
GROOVED-BILL ANI : ‘ ‘ ; : ; ‘
BasILicus AMERICANUS
TurRKEY-BUZZARD
THe STEAMER ENRIQUE
LAUNDRY AT BARRANQUILLA
THe MaGpaLENA VALLEY TO Honpa (Map)
Cocoa PALMS ALONG THE MAGDALENA
Stop AT BANco
CAPYBARA
MaAGANGUE FROM THE RIVER
AMAZILIA FUSCICAUDATA
CYANOPHAIA GOUDOTI
CATHEDRAL AT BANCO.
CoLOMBIAN SCREAMER
GLAUCIS HIRSUTA
“Oro PENDOLA ” :
BiuE-RuMPED PARRAKEET (Colored Plate)
LooKING DOWN THE MAGDALENA FROM BANCO .
PoLYERATA AMABILIS
IGUANA TUBERCULATA
A Bonco or CHAMPAN ON THE MAGDALENA
CrrRoN-BREASTED TOUCAN : : : : : ‘
COLLARED ARACARI
LAND SHELL FROM NEAR YEGUAS
Tue Dramonp RATTLER
From Honpa To Yreuas (Map)
Rurxs or BripGE OVER THE GUALI DESTROYED BY EARTHQUAKE
Swine Ferry AT ARRANCA PLUMAS
Pack-MvuLE WitH TRUNKS AND SLEEPING-MatTs
ApsusTING Loap oN Pack-MULE
PortTION OF Pavep Roap To Bogorad ; j
Roap to BoGora : ; : : : : : ; :
On THE Roap TO GUADUAS ‘ ;
«“ A DEEP AND CROOKED GORGE” . : F : : ;
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
RoapsipE INN NEAR GUADUAS
PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL AT GUADUAS . : ; A :
Our Hore, AT GUADUAS, FROM THE PLAZA .
GOITRE . ;
LAMPORNIS VIOLICAUDA
WuitE-EarED PARTRIDGE (Colored Plate) .
MARKET IN PLazA at GUADUAS
A Pack-Ox ar GuApDUAS ‘ ; : i
HYPUROPTILA BUFFONI
DAMOPHILA JULIA .
TIRED OUT.
PHÞIS SUPERCILIOSUS .
CHRYSOLAMPIS MOSCHITUS
ACESTRURA MULSANTI
SUABA OR LEAF-CARRYING ANT
JAGUAR SKULL
JAGUAR
Rewicious Procession at Guapuas
“ ALICE .. . DISMOUNTED ONLY FOR THE Bap PORTION ABOVE CONSUELO ”’
Fork-TAILep FLYCATCHER
GRAND Poortoo.
Kine VuLturE
CATHEDRAL AT BARRANQUILLA
Nine-BANDED ARMADILLO
Biack JACANA .
Murine Opossum
THe Manati
WatTrTLe Hut, CURACAO
MovunTAIn at Curacao
Curacao OrI0LE (Colored Plate)
ABORIGINES OF CuRAcAoO .
Donxkry TEAm, CuRACAO
BREAKWATER AND Hargor or LA GuayRA
Rep SNAPPER
SECTION or Cup : ; :
Rep-Tartep Hawk (Living Bird)
GREEN Heron (Mounted Skin) ‘ 6
WuHitrE PEercu i : :
. 100
100
. 105
104
. 105
106
. 107
108
. 109
109
. 110
111
112
113
. 115
119
. 123
125
. 127
128
. 131
132
. 134
138
. 140
142
. 143
144
146
148
170
172
173
174
x
Sea Bass .
ScuLPIN
ScULPIN
LOBSTER
TAILPIECE .
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
. 174
175
. 175
176
. 176
A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
CHAPTER I.
THE VOYAGE.
I HAVE always
been fond of Nat-
ural History in gen-
eral, but especially
of the study of
birds, and at every
new place that I
have visited I have
made it a point to
look up the birds of
the neighborhood
on every opportu-
nity, to study their
habits and to ac-
quaint myself with
them as thoroughly
as possible. As a
result of this, it hap-
pens that I have
seen a large per-
centage of our com-
moner birds of the
Atlantic seaboard, and that, from familiarity with plates, drawings,
and descriptions, I can recognize at once nearly every new one that
T meet.
2 A FLYING TRIP. TO THE TROPICS.
In the fall of TS91 Lwas stationed at the U.S. Miltary Academy,
West Point, New York. My duties as istruetor kept me occupied
throughout the greater part of the week, but on Saturday atter-
noons | had a few hours which | usually devoted to rambling through
the forests im the rear
of the government
reservation, on the
lookout for whatever
birds IT might meet.
One such afternoon
in November, I had
returned from a long
tramp over very rug-
ged ground with a
total of three species
ot birds observed :
a par of crows, a
downy woodpecker,
and a little band of
six tomtits, — very
meagre results for the
seven or eight miles
that I had gone over;
and Twas complaining
about it to my wite.
In the course of our
conversation, Ll was
led on to remark upon what T considered must be the enjoyment of
a naturalist who finds himself for the first time in the tropies.
surrounded by the most luxuriant vegetation ; where every object
would be of the deepest interest to him; where every bird, anmal,
and insect that he should see would be new to him, and conse-
quently afford him the same pleasure as uf he had discovered it
himself. Imagine his delight when, after having fired at some bird
THE VOYAGE. 33
moving among the thick branches of a palm, he should pick up a
trogon or humming-bird, brillant with the colors of the most beau-
tiful gems. At this point my wife said, “ Well, why don’t we go to
the tropics some time ?” and when we came to talk the matter over,
there was really no unanswerable objection against our going ; and
so from that time we began to make plans for our trip.
My first act was to write to my brother Cabell, tell him of our
project, and ask him to join us, to which he immediately rephed
that he would.
In selecting the point to be visited, there were a number of con-
siderations that came
up. First, our time
would be limited ;
for which reason we
should strike for the
nearest point, so as
to spend as little time
as possible in going
and coming. ‘This
indicated the West
Indies or Central
America; but our
vacation would occur
in June, July, and
August, and these
are rainy months in
those regions. We
could reach Vene-
zuela in a little over
six days from New a es
York, but at that i any gen
time that country was upset by civil war, and unsafe for travelers.
To Panama the same objection applied as to Central America, and,
in addition, there were vague rumors of yellow fever.
+ A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
The interior of Colombia was found to answer our requirements,
and was therefore selected as our destination.
During the winter we perfected our plans, got together our bag-
gage, and tried to find out something about the country. This last
proved to be a difficult task. I ransacked the various bookstores in
New York, but nearly every book on Colombia that I found had
been written during the twenties, and was
therefore of but little assistance to us. I
however found one that contained fairly good
maps, and gave considerable information
about roads, distances, ete. I refer to Hol-
ton’s “ New Granada.”
In regard to our baggage: in the interior
of the country it would have to be transported
on the backs of mules, for which reason our
trunks could not be larger than the ordinary
steamer trunk, nor could they weigh over 125
pounds apiece, so that when they were slung,
one on either side of the mule, the total load
should not exceed 250 pounds. We were to
carry two 12-gauge Parker’s, one a very light
smooth-bore, the other a heavy choke. My
brother wrote that he would bring also his
1 «€ ) 32-calibre Winchester. I wished to carry
C Wirt Robinson. : paper shells, but economy of space made me
«
decide upon brass ones, which could be re-
loaded an indefinite number of times. Our
wads were taken from their boxes and put into shot-bags, as they
could thus be packed more compactly. The powder we got in one-
pound cans, and all of the above went into the trunks among our
clothes. For shot, we took a good. supply of dust, 8’s, 3’s, and a
few buck, all done up in a stout bag that could be easily packed.
For stuffing birds I carried a supply of arsenic, corn-meal, cotton,
and scissors.
SF Se -
Za
_————— fa)
A, a !
———————— f By 5 \ G onc
—— 7 ee Meat oi BERMYDAS.
/ y cla \ oe
/ 7 \ ;
——— / 7 all
= | ¢ We
—S oy, al 2 \ SOF VE ISIN ay eS
——— ; a:
——— ae éi 3
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= \ { al 4 a OCEAN
=! Zz] ol a
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CARIBBEAN / SEA / &
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e
Peo
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=,
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= if / k
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——\
——-
er)
A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
Upon looking into the matter, we found that there were three
practical routes from New York to Savanilla (now Puerto Colombia),
the seaport town for the interior of Colombia. First, there was the
Atlas Line, running to Savanilla, but touching at various ports in
San Domingo, and thus stringing out the voyage to fourteen days ;
secondly, the Pacific Mail Steamship Company’s Line to Colon, on
THE VENEZUELA.
the Isthmus of Panama, in eight days, and from there three or four
steamers per month to Savanilla; and, thirdly, the Red “ D” Line
to Venezuelan ports, touching at the island of Curagao on the sixth
day out, and from this island various steamers of the Englsh and
German lines touching at Savanilla. The greatest delay that we
might have at Curacao would be a week, whilst, on the other hand,
we might make close connection, and for this reason we selected the
last route. We finally engaged our staterooms on the 8. 8. Vene-
zuela, sailing Saturday, June 11.
I remember now with what feelings of delight I opened the letter
from the steamship company, drew out the tags marked “ passen-
ger’s baggage, 8. S. Venezuela, Curacao,” and fastened them to
THE VOYAGE. a
our trunks. Our longed-for trip was finally assuming a tangible
form.
It must not be supposed that our preparations progressed without
opposition ; our friends all protested when they learned that we
were going to South America in the swmmer. It was in vain that
we represented to them that beg so near the equator there would
be but little difference in the temperature from one year’s end to
another. Our respective families and relations were disgusted.
Their letters to us were filled with our obituaries, with stories of
poisonous serpents, of all sorts of malignant and deadly fevers, of
assassinations, and of lesser evils without end. I was reminded
of the “ Jumblies”’ in the nonsense book, who,
“Tn spite of all their friends could say,
In a sieve they went to sea.”
Well, the winter and spring went by; June 11 came at last, and
found us together in New York. We left our hotel about eleven,
drove down to Pier 56, East River, and went aboard the Venezuela
about noon. We spent the time remaining before the sailing of our
steamer in getting our luggage arranged in our very large and com-
fortable staterooms, and in examining the ship. The Venezuela was
practically new, the staterooms very clean and well ventilated, the
saloon and dining-room handsomely finished in quartered oak. She
was of 2,300 tons, the largest vessel of the line.
The pilot came aboard a few minutes before one, and at one sharp
we pulled out from the pier, headed down the bay, and started off.
I had my “ Hawk-eye”’ in readiness, and took parting shots at the
Brooklyn Bridge and the Liberty Statue as we steamed by. The
day was very pleasant and the sea smooth. When off Sandy Hook
we slowed up, our pilot was taken off by his boat, and we started
ahead again.
Shortly after this I saw my first stormy petrels. Quite a flock of
them followed the steamer until it grew too dark to see. They
were smaller than I expected to find them, — little gull-like birds
with white rumps.
8 NTE SAGE IIE IO) Sila TH” SIG OUEIEC Ss
There are some people who laugh at seasickness, but I am unfor-
tunately not among that number. In about an hour I began to
feel wretched, and I grew steadily worse. Cabell also looked green.
Alice held out better. When night came I would have been glad
to die, and fell into my berth in a sort of stupor.
Let us not dwell
upon a painful re-
membrance.
The followmg
day, Sunday, June
12, when I crawled
out on deck we were
dashing through
the Gulf Stream.
I was at once struck
by the change im
. the color of the
= water; it had now
become of a most
briliant and beau-
tiful dark blue, en-
tirely different from
the greenish blue
of the water nearer
the coast. Looking
towards the stern
of the vessel, I saw
that we were still
followed by a flock of the small petrels that I had seen the day
before. They circled around the stern, every now and then drop-
ping down to the foam.in our wake to pick up some particle of
food, and then hastening on to rejoin the retreating ship. They
came within a few feet of the rail, and I, encouraged by a tempo-
rary lull in my symptoms, took my camera and went back to take a
“OUR PILOT WAS TAKEN OFF BY HIS BOAT.”
THE VOYAGE.
snap shot at some of them, but the
motion over the screw was so much
greater than that amidships that I
gave in before I succeeded, and re-
treated to my stateroom more wretch-
ed than ever. In the afternoon I
saw a few flying-fish and some “ Por-
tuguese men-o-war,’’ the latter offer-
ing a beautiful sight as they sailed lightly
over the waves, resplendent with various
shades of violet, purple, and pink.
Sunday night the wind freshened, and
all day Monday we pitched through a head
sea, the wind being from the southeast.
We all felt worse than ever. I thought
the sea very rough, as the waves repeat-
edly washed over the decks. A flying-fish
came on board and was caught. I exam-
ined it as closely as I could. It was a
small one, about six inches long, a deep
blue color above and silvery white below,
a splendid example of protective colora-
tion, as its colors harmonized with the
deep blue of the water and snowy white
of the foam. Later in the day I saw a
bird about the size of a pigeon, black
above and white below, and more stocky
than a tern. It flew close to the surface
of the waves. It was not a tern, but flew
much like a gull, not with the rapid wing-
beats of a murre, and was probably a
shearwater.
The wind continued on Tuesday, but
not so fresh as on the day before, and, to
PORTUGUESE MAN-O7-WAR.
(By permission of American Book Co.)
10 AN HO GONEE SIR TKO MEH IME OUEIKOSS.
my great relief, our symptoms began to moderate, and we once
more took an interest in life. We began to make the acquaintance
of the passengers, among whom we found especially agreeable Mr.
Birtner, the German consul to Maracaibo, who was accompanied by
his family. We also began to develop ravenous appetites and to
look forward impatiently to meal-time, when we did full justice
to the good dishes of the Venezuela’s cook. Captaim Hopkins was
kind enough to place us at his table, and did a great deal to make
our trip a pleasant one.
This day we saw hundreds of flying-fish, and watched a great
many of them throughout their flight. They cannot be properly
said to fly, yet they do more than simply sail through the air with
the momentum acquired by them start from the water. As soon as
they clear the water, they spread their wide pectoral and anal fins
and hold them horizontal and motionless during the remainder of
their flight. ‘They can steer themselves up or down, as I saw hun-
dreds of them keep at a distance of a few inches above the surface,
going down into the troughs between the waves, but rising to clear
the crests. I also saw some, when they had lost most of their
velocity and were apparently just about to return to the water, droop
the hinder part of their bodies until their tails touched the water,
when they would wriggle them rapidly and.violently and thus get a
new impetus without actually entermg the water.
Wednesday was like Tuesday; the wind was still against us, so
we did not go along as rapidly as we otherwise would ; still we aver-
aged about three hundred miles per day.
On Thursday morning, as we made the Mona passage, we saw
our first land since leaving New York: Mona rock, a sharp and
rugged peak rising from the water on our left; Mona Island, a
large, barren-looking table-land, with precipitous and, in some places,
overhanging shores on our right. To the extreme right was a little
flat sand-bar of an island, Little Mona, or Monita, and in the far
distance to the left rose the blue mountains of Puerto Rico.
As we drew near the passage, many birds came around the ship;
THE VOYAGE. 11
among’ them a beautiful tropic bird with a yellow beak, white plu-
mage with black wing patches, and long white plumes in its tail,
sooty and noddy terns, flocks of boobies, the adults brown above and
white below, the young uniform plain brown with bluish green faces
and beaks. These attempted several times to settle on the rigging
YELLOW-BILLED TROPIC BIRD (PHABTHON FLAVIROSTRIS).
of the vessel. Late in the afternoon we saw a tremendous school of
porpoises — all small ones not over four feet long, but there were
at least three hundred of them.
The weather was pleasant; there were a few showers, but the
trade wind was constant, and we did not feel the heat.
CHAPTER II.
THE ISLAND OF CURACAO.
Fripay, June 17, 1892. We were all up bright and early, keep-
ing a sharp lookout for the first sight of land, and about eleven
o'clock we saw away off on the horizon a faint blue peak which rose
from the sea, as we drew nearer, and finally spread out into the
Island of Curacao. This island, which now belongs to the Dutch,
is long and narrow, and les with its longer axis N. W. and S$. E.
It is forty miles long and about ten miles wide, and contains an area
of two hundred and twelve square miles. It is about fifty miles from
the mainland of South America, and as we rounded its northwest
end, and ran down its southwest coast, we saw to our night a faint
blue Ime of mountains, the peninsula of Coro. We steamed along
at a distance of from two to three miles from the coast for about
twenty-five miles, and had a good opportunity to examine the island.
It consists of a succession of peaks, some with a gradual slope on
one side and abrupt cliff on the other, others with a flat top and
abrupt fall on all sides. It is of coral formation, and all along the
coast of the northern part there are miniature cliffs of from ten to
twenty feet high, and at their feet long stretches of most dazzlingly
clean-looking sand. The waves have undermined these cliffs in a
number of places, making small caves along the water’s edge.) I
have never seen a more beautiful sight than the deep blue waters
of the Caribbean Sea breaking in waves on the smooth beaches of
Curacao. As the water grew shallower, the blue changed in shade
to the color called peacock-blue, and this closer in became a light
ereen.
Ap {
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NORTH POINT
uy
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Bepece
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12°10'N. LAT.
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SOEs 200.000.
4 5 6 10 MILES.
DUTCH WEST |
FROM OFFICIAL
ent
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Sackett&Wilhelms Liths.Co. NY.
THE ISLAND OF CURACAO. 13
From a distance the island looked green; but as we drew nearer,
it was seen that the greater part was practically barren. The coral
rock showed everywhere, and was covered with a small scrubby
growth hardly waist high. In the valleys between the peaks were
a few trees. Farther south the shore grew more level, the beaches
wider. and at one place there was a large mangrove swamp.
Shortly after one o’clock we knew that we had been sighted, for
we saw the signal flying from a staff on one of the peaks to the
northwest of the harbor of Santa Ana, and later the little town of
VESSEL PASSING BETWEEN FORTS AT NARROW ENTRANCE OF HARBOR OF CURACAO.
(From Photograph by Ugueto.)
Willemstad came into view, the houses looking so charmingly neat
and fresh colored that they seemed to be china toys.
About half past two we were outside of the town ; we drew nearer
the shore, steamed slowly along past the entrance to the harbor,
picked up the venerable-looking white-haired pilot who came out to
14 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
ISLAND OF CURACAO
SANTA ANA HARBOR
\\
(A
)
(G
us in a whale-boat pulled by four very black negroes, then wheeled
sharply around to our right, and continued on the circle until it
brought us in between the two forts guarding the entrance.
This is a very strange harbor; its entrance nearly perpendicular
to the coast-line, hardly one hundred yards wide, and continuing
inland, more like a canal than anything else, for nearly a mile, when
it opens out into a large and very irregular bay called the Schotte-
gat, or more generally the Lagoon. This canal is about one hun-
dred and seventy-five yards wide at its widest part, yet runs from
forty-five to ninety feet in depth, with its shores so steep that the.
largest steamers can safely make fast within a few feet of the pave-
ments, and at some points actually tie up alongside. There are no
streams on the island, no running water, and no current or tide
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. 15
in this harbor. Its formation is due to the coral structure of the
island.
The town hes on both sides of the harbor mouth, but does net
extend back to the Lagoon. The portion to the right is called
Willemstad, whilst that to the left is called Overzijde or Otrabanda,
which are Dutch and Spanish respectively, and mean about the same
as the English “other shore.” Just before the channel debouches
into the Lagoon, the land on either side rises into rugged hills, the
one to the right being the higher and being surmounted by a small
fortification, Fort Nassau. Owing to the. elevation of this fort, it
commands a view of the sea for a
long distance around, and from it
are displayed signals announcing
the approach of vessels. From it,
_also, a time-gun is fired daily.
After passing the forts with |
evoups of Dutch soldiers in curious |
|
ul-fitting uniforms, ridiculously tall
forage caps, and short heavy swords
at thei sides, we went through a
drawbridge of rather novel con-
struction, proceeded a quarter of
a mile inland, and finally our vessel
turned around (though there hard-
ly seemed room for it to do so),
and we tied up along the western Fo
shore, sparred off to a distance of 3 . Pe ee
fifteen feet. The water is wonder- ;
fully clear, and we saw numbers of
fish of different kinds and sizes swimming about. There were sev-
eral other steamers in the harbor, the Caracas of the Red “D” Line
bound north, the branch steamer Maracaibo, a German steamer,
and beyond, in the Lagoon, a couple of small men-of-war, Spanish
and Dutch.
DUTCH SOLDIER AT CURACAO.
16 A FEYING PREP LOOTED PRORICS:
Our vessel was soon surrounded by small boats, flat-bottomed,
square at each end, sculled by very large and very black negroes
who stood on the back seat. (See illustration on page 13.) They
brought out the port officer and runners from the hotels across
the harbor from us.
Tired of being cooped up on shipboard, we thought of going
over to spend the night at one of the hotels, although Captain Hop-
kins was kind enough to ask us to remain on the Venezuela. How-
ever, as I had some misgivings, I concluded to leave our baggage
on board until we had made an inspection, so we took one of the
small boats and went across, first to the Hotel Commercio, where
we were shown up a flight of steep and rickety stairs to some white-
washed, bare, and unattractive rooms over a store; then we went to
the Hotel Sasso, which we found worse, and finally, discouraged by
the outlook, we concluded to accept the captain’s invitation. Hvery-
thing is comparative in this world. In less than two months we
were delighted to get rooms at the Commercio, and found them
extremely comfortable.
After this we took a short walk through the streets. We saw
swarms of negroes in every direction, men and women, both remark-
able for their fine size. The men wore straw hats, a light shirt, a
pair of trousers, and were barefooted. The women wore turbans,
one dress, and were barefooted, or at best wore slipshod slippers or
alpargatas. Some of them wore dresses but little below the knee,
others had long stiff-starched trains scrapmg and rattling over the
pavement behind them, whilst the front of the dress cleared the
ground by a foot. Children went naked, or wore but one ragged
garment. We saw one boy of eight or nine with nothing but an
old buttonless waistcoat which had belonged to a stout man, and
which flapped around his knees.
The women carried their children astride of one hip; everything
else they carried balanced on the head. We soon found it so hot
that we returned to the steamer, and later Cabell and myself went
out for a walk, leaving Alice on board. We strolled around the
THE ISLAND OF CURACAO. Ie
streets for about an hour, and then came back. We crossed the
drawbridge through which we had passed earlier in the day. It is
a pontoon bridge, a number of whose centre spans are fastened
rigidly together by the road-bed, so that the whole swings open like
agate. On the pontoon farthest from the pivot is a donkey-engine
such as is used on shipboard. To open the bridge, this engine takes
in a rope fastened to an anchor up-stream; to close it, it hauls in
on a rope in the opposite direction. It is a toll-bridge, the toll
DRAWBRIDGE ACROSS THE HARBOR AT CURACAO.
(From Photograph by Soublette.)
being two coppers of Dutch money, about equivalent to one cent
in our currency.
The town is very picturesque ; the houses and streets are remark-
ably neat looking. Though the island is so near the mainland, where
it rains frequently, here it rains but seldom; sometimes two years
go by without rain. There are no springs or good wells, and for
drinking water cisterns are depended upon. There is, strange to
18 A FEMENG TRIP. LO THE PROPIGS.
say, little or no dust. The houses are of stone covered with stucco
or plastered, and are painted or washed in different colors. Yellow
is the prevailing color, but a number are blue, green, white, and
pink. The roofs are covered with red tiles. Few of the wmdows
apna:
ee RR a
DWELLINGS AT CURAQAO.
are glazed, although all have heavy blinds, usually green and
white, and the lower windows have large iron or wooden bars built
in. The trimmings, door-frames, house corners, and ridges of the
roofs are painted white. A great many of the houses have their
gable ends facing the street, but the slope of the end walls is
prettily broken into curves and angles, with appropriate moulding
all along. | There are no chimneys to the houses. Cooking is done
over a handful of twigs or charcoal in a little iron or earthenware
vase like a fruit-dish. They are much like a plumber’s stove, or
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. 19
like the stoves that our laundresses use to heat their irons. Of
course one is required for each dish, as only one article at the time
can be cooked on them. The stores are well supplied, and as this
is a free port everything is extremely cheap, — many things being
much cheaper than they are in the United States.
The streets, some of which are too narrow for any vehicle, have
no sidewalks, but are all neatly paved with water-worn coral blocks
set in mortar. The pavements are put down in regular pattern,
square sections with diagonal lines, like the letter X. We saw a
Any Nyt | |
ah
in ‘I
AA
& Wt
NARROW STREET IN CURAQAO.
funny little street car drawn by a donkey. There were seats for
only six passengers, and the car carried a driver and a conductor.
In the shade in front of houses, and in a great many doorways,
squatted old negresses with fruits, peanuts, candies, dried fish, and
20 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
charcoal for sale. Among the tropical fruits which I tasted for the
first time were some “ mamones,”’ a fruit which grows in bunches and
looks like a large green grape. The skin was rougher and thicker,
and when bitten split open, showmg a sweetish, yellowish pulp
around a large stone. I also tasted some mangoes, a large pear-
shaped fruit with a smooth yellowish green skin. This, when peeled
otf, showed a soft yellow pulp, something like our pawpaw but more
fibrous. It had a sicky sweet taste, with a flavor of turpentine
that made it very disagreeable to me. I also saw a fruit called
“eachu,” pear-shaped, pmk and yellow, with a lead-colored bean-
shaped exerescence at the larger end. The fruit which they speak
of highly here, the “ nispero,” we did not get.
The different kinds of money m circulation here is remarkable:
old Spanish, Portuguese, Venezuelan, Englsh, Dutch, French, —
in fact, all kinds of com. It is rather confusmg to attempt to pay
an account made out in guilders and florins from change consist-
ing of franes, shillings, and reals. American gold, silver, and paper
passes freely, but not the five-cent nickel. Speaking of money
reminds me that an American contemplating a visit to South Amer-
ica need never trouble to get English gold. American gold is
taken, and passes freely everywhere.
The natives speak a mongrel dialect called ** Papamiento,” and
even have several papers printed in it. It resembles Spanish some-
what, but meludes a number of words of Dutch derivation. I-
found it almost unintelligible. I succeeded, after a fashion, in
making myself understood in Spanish, as nearly all of the natives
speak a little of that language.
Of domestic animals we saw a few small horses, donkeys about
waist high, curs, goats, sheep. chickens, turkeys, pigeons, and mus-
covy ducks. We saw for sale at different places a number of
young parrakeets, green, with dirty yellow or butf-colored heads
(Conurus pertinax). They were not fully feathered, and we were
told that they had been taken towards the northwestern end of the
island.
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. ~ 21
In a negro’s house, near the steamer, we saw in a cage a number
of young birds, none of them fully fledged. There were some
doves, which were the same as the little ground dove of our South-
ern States (Columbigallina passerina). ‘There was also a pigeon,
considerably larger, of a wine-colored gray, with white feathers in
its wings (Columba gymnopthalma). This was an undeveloped
squab. The man ealled it “ paloma con alas blaneas,” white-winged
dove. There were also three partridges, which, at first sight, I
thought were the same as our Virginia bob-white; but I soon saw
that they were different. They were about half grown, and had a
marked resemblance to the bob-white in shape and in coloration
of ther backs and tails. Their throats were white, with some
reddish brown feathers among them; but the distinguishing feature
was a long recurved crest of whitish feathers, which they carried
continually erect (Hupsychortyx cristatus). All of these had been
caught within a short distance of the town. We also saw flying
about, and heard it smging, a bird very much like our mocking-bird
(Iimus gilvus rostratus). I saw hovering over some flowers on
the parapet of one of the forts a small brilliantly green humming-
bird (Chlorostilbon atala).
On the stones in the water’s edge along the harbor we saw quan-
tities of sea-urchins, with spines eight inches long, barred with
black and white (Diadema setosum). Before turning in for the
night, we decided to go out with a gun early the next morning,
and I arranged for the negro who had the caged birds to go along
with us as a guide.
Saturday, June 18, 1892. I was awake by five o’clock; woke
Cabell, and we dressed hurriedly, and left the ship, taking our
smaller gun and only fifteen squibs of dust-shot and a few heavy
cartridges. We found our guide waiting patiently for us, and
struck off up the hill to the northwest. It is forbidden for any one
to go through the streets with a gun here; but I had on a hunting
coat, with volummous game pockets, in which I put the stock and
barrels, and did not put my gun together until we were beyond the
22, A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
limits of the town. We had hardly gone two hundred yards when
we began to see numbers of the small ground doves; and I shot
two, one a male in fine plumage. They were, as I had thought,
the same as those found in our Southern States.
We first followed out a mdge running west for about a mile
and a half. The country was very rough and hilly, the rock out-
cropping in every direction. In places, the ground was covered
with fragments of the fossil coral, looking lke pieces of bones; in
others, the outcropping rock was as tee and sharp as slag fem
a blast furnace. The surface was coueted with a dry, thorny seh,
about three feet high, and the stems of this scrub were loaded with
small, oblong, oval snails, about the size and shape of a 32-calibre
rifle-ball. In walking along we
crushed so many under foot that
our shoes were made quite sticky.
In this serub I saw and heard sevy-
eral little yellow birds, and shot
one, which, on picking up, I found
to be a warbler,—a male. It
was much like our yellow warbler,
except that its forehead and
crown were chestnut (Dendroica
CURAGAO LAND SHELL (PUPA UVA, LINN.). rufopileata). Along here we also
saw a number of small finch-lke
birds, and Cabell shot a pair (Huetheia bicolor). The male was
dark slate about the head and breast, the rest of its plumage
greenish gray. The female was plain g greenish gray. They have
very high culmens, and look like little apoducelts: We heard them
singing in all directions. Farther on we turned to our right, and
went down into a little valley, where there was a small feel of
brackish water, and here were some few trees, a couple of tama-
rinds, some date palms, and a number of calabash-trees. The cala-
bashes are spherical or oval, smooth, and green like small water-
melons, and grow from the trunk of the tree or side of the large
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. 23
limbs, and not at the end of a twig. We ate some of the tama-
rinds, and found them quite refreshing. There was also another
scrubby tree, hardly fit to be called a tree, with straggling thorny
limbs and small leaves, like our honey locust. This tree was scat-
tered pretty generally over the hills, and we noticed a peculiarity
about it, that is, that the majority of its branches pointed towards
the west. This is a result of the trade wind blowing constantly
from the east. This tree bore a few tiny yellow blossoms, and
around these we found some humming-birds. I missed the first
one that I shot at; but later Cabell killed a pair. They were
smaller than our ruby-throat, the male a
most beautiful glittering green, its tail
steely blue, almost black, its wings dark
purplish brown. The second was either a
female, or young, and was similar to the
first, except that its colors were less bril-
liant. It had some dark grayish feathers
below and a white streak on each side of its
head. Both had little downy white puffs
around their vents (Ch/orostilbon atala).
A little later I shot a large sparrow, quite like our white-crowned
sparrow. Its head was handsomely marked with black and gray,
and it had a chestnut collar at the back of its neck (Zonotrichia
pileata). Ina calabash-tree near here I shot a species of honey-
ereeper (Careba uropygialis). It was slate-brown above, its breast
and rump yellow, its head and throat slate-black, with a white
CHLOROSTILBON SPLENDIDUS.
(After Elliot.)
stripe above each eye. There was a fleshy excrescence at its gape,
which was pinkish red when the bird was fresh, but which faded
rapidly. Its tongue had a peculiar brushy tip.
We went on as far as a convent and an orphan asylum, where one
of the nuns, a negress, gave us a drink of water. We then turned
back, and reached the ship about nine. The roads near the convent
were excellent, and had on either side a hedge of a species of cactus
which grew up like tall posts to ten, fifteen, and even twenty feet in
24. A FLYING TRIP. TO LH EPROPRICS:
height. We found other kinds growing about; one especially trou-
blesome resembled our prickly pear, but had very long thorns.
These appeared to have barbs on them, for when they entered the
flesh they had to be picked to pieces before they could be extracted.
“CACTUS... TEN, FIFTEEN, AND EVEN TWENTY. FEET IN HEIGHT.”’
When we brushed against one of these plants, a whole segment
would break off and hang dangling from our clothes. On our way
back we saw a pair of small hawks (Zinnunculus sparverius brevi-
penis), and got a couple of good shots at them, but the cartridges
that I happened to have with me had been loaded for several years
and were worthless, so we failed to get one. They seemed to be
much the same as our sparrow-hawk. Our guide said that they
were called “chiki chiki,” from their ery, which much resembled
this word, and that they fed on the lizards, “ larguitos,” which liter-
THE ISLAND OF CURACAO. 25
ally swarmed through the scrub, — repulsive-looking creatures, some
green, some brown, and all spotted and blotched with lighter color.
I was told that the green ones were males. They lived in burrows.
We also saw at a distance some yellow and black orioles (Jcterus
vanthornus curasoénsis). Our guide called them “ tropiales,” but
they were not the common troupial. We saw numbers of the mock-
ing-birds, but I had no more cartridges, so could not get any. The
guide called them “ruisenor,” which is Spanish for nightingale. I
saw a small red butterfly, and some very small grayish blue ones.
When we returned, we found that in our absence an English
MAIN STREET, CURAGAO.
(From Photograph by Soublette.)
tramp steamer, the Navigator, of the Harrison Line, had come in
and would sail for Savanilla the same afternoon, so I hastened over
to see her commander, Captain Owen, and secure our staterooms.
I found the Navigator to be a large freight steamer with only six
staterooms, the accommodations. being naturally far inferior in
26 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
every respect to those of the Venezuela. However, we were anxious
to hurry on, so I took passage for us, for which I had to pay twenty
dollars apiece in gold. We took lunch on the Venezuela, and after-
wards I skinned the birds that
we had shot in the morning. I|
had never skinned a humming- £
bird before, and the first one that Merete -=
I tried was such a sorry-looking
CARTAGENA ESS
[SS SSS
ee
SAN SERNARDO ae
MENZANIKE Ae ISLANDS SaaS
eT. Suto
= +» MULATAS —=
a 7-,. ARCHIPELAGO —
SS. SS ECOEOMETES
wurcremait «6 Sy eee object when I had fin-
Be = == ished, that I simply
opened the second, took
out the intestines, and filled it with dry arsenic. This is the way
that I preserved nearly all of the humming-birds that I secured on
this trip, and I afterwards had cause to regret it. Though they
look well enough at first, and though the flesh is preserved, it
shrivels until the skin is distorted; and, again, if the birds are
packed away in a trunk for a week or ten days without bemg
aired, they are apt to be mouldy and mildewed when taken out. I
should advise all collectors to skin their humming-birds as they do
larger birds.
Later in the afternoon we took a short walk through the streets,
went into the old Dutch fort to the post-office, mailed some letters,
came back to say good-by to our friends on the Venezuela, then
had our baggage taken over to the Navigator, and settled ourselves
in our staterooms. As we crossed the harbor, I saw flying over,
high in the air, a frigate pelican (Fregata aquila). It sailed along
gracefully, opening and closing its scissor-lke tail.
We cast loose our lines about half past four, soon passed out of
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. 27
CG A R PB: . BL A
ISLANCS
é reer wo
(GALLINAS PT. ~
ena ——— eS THE MONKS. ie
Ee AS
7 aoa s0 eo —————— CURACAO
— : ——— ya SAM ROMAN.
a i aes SS BUEN fon
cae P — (FRREDRRR a nD
‘5 ——EEE— q ais LITTLE CURACAD ae
————————
GULF OF
VENEZUELA
ZAMURO PT,
the harbor, headed slightly to the
north of west, and before night-
fall Curagac had sunk out of our
sight. We ran along with a
strong current and wind in our favor, and the ship rolled consider-
ably, but fortunately I had no recurrence of my unpleasant expe-
rience on the Venezuela.
The second night before reaching Curagao, I saw for the first
time that constellation of which we have all so often heard, the
Southern Cross, and this
night we had a much better
view of it. I must confess
to being greatly disappoint-
ed. The stars are not so
bright as I had been taught
to expect, nor is the cross a
symmetrical one im any way.
The arms are not perpen-
dicular to the vertical part,
nor are they of equa! length.
The accompanying figure
THE SOUTHERN CROSS OF THE GEOGRAPHIES AND
THE TRUE SOUTHERN CROSS.
gives the Southern Cross as represented in the geography that I
studied when a schoolboy, and a second figure of the cross in more
nearly its true proportions.
28 YN SOS OM CE IIIS AY SHO) Sista lide I ON IKE Sy.
We were on board all the day of Sunday, June 19, and went
along nicely with wind and current m our favor. I saw during
the day a few petrels, and some large gannets, white, with black
wing-tips, like the common one of our north Atlantic coast. We
expected to reach Savanilla on the following morning. It was cloudy
and hot during the day, and there were several small showers.
This would seem to be an appropriate place to make a few
remarks about Colombia. I will not attempt to give a lengthy
account of the country; for this | would refer to the Encyclopedia,
to Bulletin No. 33 of the Bureau of American Republics, or to
some of the works mentioned in the appendix; but I will simply
refer to some of the leading features.
The Republic of Colombia consists of nine divisions or depart-
ments, each having a capital of its own, and is situated in the north-
west corner of South America. Its northwestern ‘extremity, the
department of Panama, joins Central America; on the southern
boundary is the Republic of Ecuador, and to the east lies Venezuela
and Brazil. Our ideas of the relative size of the South American
republics are apt to be vague. For instance, the area of Colombia is
over 500,000 square miles, or equal to.the combined area of the
New England States, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Dela-
ware, Ohio, Indiana, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee,
North Carolina, and Georgia. It is of irregular shape; its greatest
length is about 1,250 miles, its breadth 1,100 miles, that is, each
dimension is, roughly, a third greater than the distance from New
York to Chicago. It is one of the most mountainous countries in
the world. The great Andes of Ecuador, crossing its southern
boundary, split into three nearly parallel ranges. The western
range follows the Pacific coast, decreasing in altitude as it enters the
Isthmus of Panama. The central range runs directly north until it
terminates about one hundred miles from the Caribbean Sea. On
its western side flows the Cauca, on its eastern the Magdalena,
which unite at its termination and continue northward to the sea.
The eastern range is more irregular and _ bears off to the northeast.
ical
of TASTED
5
Sabanitlg=\,
} 3 As unm deta me
fP
Cape SFrancisco!
MAP OF THE
REPUBLIC OF
Ly
: be
piisuateatcoliietaliaacie oartGcmmonnaetac een
pene slpene nye + tina ieniaths pet on ersiet
citigg',
p RSME ASWES YP
a ae ae
nie
Ploy aes, Pau
Sy Pah y aha cninee er
RS ats) ye
the caulk
Pe ga Sah tetraammine cet aa
THE ISLAND OF CURAGAO. 29
A portion extends through Venezuela, whilst another portion con-
tinues as far as the Caribbean, where, near Santa Marta, it rises in
snowy peaks 16,500 feet above the sea. From the eastern slope of
this range countless rivers flow into the Amazon, the Negro, and the
Orinoco. The Magdalena, which is practically the only highway in
Colombia, has a dangerous bar at its mouth, but above this is navi-
gable by steamers of ght draught to Yeguas, a distance of some
630 miles. Here there is an interruption due to rapids, but above
Honda small steamers continue the navigation to Neiva, and canoes
are used even farther, making the total navigable length nearly
1,000 miles. From Honda to the sea the river falls between 800
and 1,000 feet, so is very swift, and were it not for its crookedness,
the current would prevent navigation. Climates of all tempera-
tures, from torrid heat to perpetual snow, are found in Colombia,
and due to its broken surface it has two rainy and two dry seasons.
For the Magdalena Valley, March, April, May, and September,
October, and November are the rainy months, but the line between
the seasons is not suddenly or sharply drawn.
Though there are a number of little fragments of railroads
throughout Colombia, there is no railroad system proper, and where
transportation cannot be had by water, dependence must be placed
upon mules. Thus the capital of the Republic, a city of over
100,000 inhabitants is inaccessible by wheeled conveyance. There
is said to be a poor wagon road from the river to the south of
Honda, but it is seldom used.
CHAPTER III.
BARRANQUILLA.
Monpay, June 20, 1892. I looked out of the porthole of our
little stateroom by daybreak this morning, and although I could
see no land on account of a heavy mist, I knew that we were near
the delta of the Magdalena. The sea was very muddy for many
miles and covered with floating water plants and driftwood. In a
short time the mist lifted and we began to catch little glimpses of
the Colombian coast. We soon got our things together and came
on deck, all excitement at the prospect of landing in a few hours.
We finally came to anchor at half past eight about a mile from the
land at Puerto Colombia. Savanilla was formerly the port, but
the shifting sands have filled in the deep water there, so now the
landing is several miles farther to the west. The harbor is a very
exposed one, and I should think dangerous. ‘There were several
German and English steamers lymg at anchor. We were shortly
visited by the mspector of the port in a little cockle-shell of a tug
with an excruciatingly shrill whistle, and about nine o'clock we got
aboard of her and were taken ashore. On the tug were several
passengers who had come from one of the other steamers, and on
our way to the shore I made the acquaintance of one of them, a Mr.
Lindauer of New York, engaged in business in Bogota. Afterwards
we saw a good deal of each other, and as he was famihar with the
country, he was of great assistance to us on a number of occasions,
and went to a great deal of trouble to help us.
We finally reached the landing, which was nothing but a few
extremely slippery boards nailed to some worm-eaten piles in the
BARRANQUILLA. ol
OAT
PUERTO COLOMBIA.
(After Millican.)
water’s edge. Our satchels were tossed upon the landing, and we
scrambled up as best we could, almost on our hands and knees.
Once on top, we were surrounded by a perfect swarm of half-clad
Indians and half-breeds of all sizes, who insisted upon carrying our
things for us, whether we wished them to do so or not. Our trunks
we could not take with us; we would have to get them at the
custom-house in Barranquilla. The satchels of our fellow-travelers
were inspected by the customs officers at the landing, whilst the
rabble crowded around and examined everything’ critically. Upon
showing my special passport, we were allowed to carry off our
things without their being inspected.
Puerto Colombia is nothing but a collection of a half dozen
wretched bamboo huts plastered with mud and thatched with reeds.
The huts have no floors; there are stagnant pools of slimy water
on A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
in every direction, some even encroaching on the houses; a few
pigs wander listlessly about, and everything looks indescribably
filthy. There is an iron serew-pile pier in process of construction,
alongside of which, when compieted, it is intended for steamers to
lie, but it looked very weak to me.
We went ahead about one hundred yards to the railroad station,
where I got our tickets, and we boarded the tram which was wait-
ing. The road is a narrow gauge; the cars of two classes and some-
what of the appearance of our street cars. The freight cars are like
the little closed trucks used in transferring baggage across the New
York ferries. Our train left for Barranquilla at half past nme, and
arrived there shortly after eleven. The distance is 18.5 miles. We
first followed the seashore for several miles, then turned to the right
and struck across country. The country that we passed through
was covered with a jungle of scrubby, thorny trees ; no very large
ones, with now and then a small grove of cocoanut palms. In a
number of places rose large post-like cacti. The soil was sandy,
with a limestone outcropping at a few places. The Magdalena was
at its highest at this time ; consequently the whole country was
flooded, and lakes and lagoons extended on both sides of the track.
As soon as the train moved off, I began to keep a sharp lookout
of the windows for birds. We saw large flocks of brown pelicans
(Pelecanus fuscus), numbers of white egrets (Ardea egretta), and
snowy herons (A. candidissima), small grayish herons similar to our
green heron but smaller (Butorides cyanurus), black vultures (Ca-
tharista atrata), flocks of large black ducks with a white spot in
each wing (Catrina moschata), pairs of large black and white stilts
with red legs (Jimantopus mexicanus), great numbers of a species
of jacana, dark, with a bright red frontal crest, and apparently all
the feathers in the last joint of their wings whitish (Jacana nigra),
large crow-blackbirds, the females chocolate-colored (Quiscalus as-
similis), long-tailed anis (Crotophaga sulcirostris), kingfishers,
larger than ours but with the same discordant rattle (Ceryle tor-
quata), pigeons, ground doves, and quantities of flycatchers of dif-
BARRANQUILLA. 30
ferent kinds. As we drew nearer Barranquilla I saw a flock of
birds flying with rapid wing-beats, looking just like a flock of our
doves ; but as they veered off, the sunlight struck them and I saw
that they were light green in color. They were parrakeets, the
first birds that I had seen on the mainland answering my expecta-
tions as regards tropical birds. Later on, several flocks flew by the
train near enough for me to hear their harsh, screeching: notes.
Just after leaving the seashore, I noticed on both sides of the
REC GEASS = es
HOTEL VICTORIA AND AMERICAN CONSULATE, BARRANQUILLA.
track among the trees a great many burrows with a little mound of
earth thrown up around the entrance, and in each of these I could
see a large blue crab (Cardiosoma guanhumi).
Our three guns, which were in their canvas covers and strapped
im one bundle, had been passed by the inspector at Puerto Colom-
bia, and we anticipated no more trouble about them; but, to our
34+ A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
disgust, when we were leaving the station at Barranquilla, an old
mulatto insisted on taking them to the custom-house. Arguments
were of no avail; we had to give them up. 3
At the depot we took a carriage, a little open concern drawn by
diminutive mules, and drove first to the Pensidén Inglés, a hotel kept
by a young Englishwoman, a Miss Hoare. Unfortunately for us,
she had no vacant rooms, though she promised to let us have some
on the following day. From here we drove to the Hotel Colombia,
with no better success. Finally, at the Hotel Victoria we secured
a couple of rooms. The hotel was a single-story building, one room
deep, facing the street. Back of this was a large courtyard filled
with beautiful flowers and fruit trees. This would have been a
delightful place, had it not been for the fact that all the slops from
the bedrooms were regularly thrown under the shrubbery. Back
of this court and facing it was a row of bedrooms, and we were
given two of these. The rooms were dirty, with cement floors, plas-
tered walls, the under side of the roof for the ceiling. There was a
heavy door in front, and one window in rear protected by wooden
bars. It had blinds, but no glass. From its name we expected to
find this an English hotel, but it was kept by a native woman, and
practically managed by the negro waiter, Sam.
In our hurry in the morning we had left the ship without break-
fasting, and here, according to the custom of the country, we did
not get our breakfast until after twelve o'clock, so we were very
hungry. Breakfast was served in the piazza facing the court. We
had some strange dishes, none of them very good to my taste, but
the coffee was excellent. The fresh meat is stringy and tough.
Rice is well cooked, but is dark colored.
After breakfast I went out alone to attend to a few matters. I
first called at the American consul’s, but found him out. A few
hours later I was told that there was a man in the house at the
time suffering from yellow fever, which he had contracted at some
mines up the river. This was rather pleasant for me, especially as
I had entered the house. From here I went to the custom-house
i cee a)
BARRANQUILLA FROM THE MARSH. MARKET IN FOREGROUND.
36 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
and after a great deal of wrangling succeeded in getting our guns.
The officials made but little objection to my taking the shot guns,
but haggled a great deal over the rifle. After my repeated assur-
ances that I had no warlike intentions, they finally gave it up to me.
I then went to the Banco Nacional and cashed a bill of exchange
for $500 in American gold, getting for it $1,000 in Colombian
paper currency. As a great part of this was given to me in small
notes, | had nearly a satchel full of money and felt very opulent.
The paper notes in circulation are the hundred, fifty, twenty, ten,
five, and one dollar or peso, and the fifty, twenty, and ten cents, or
centavos. The peso is regarded as divided into one hundred cen-
tavos, corresponding to our cent, and into ten reales, corresponding
to our dime. There are also three nickel coms, media, cuartilla,
etc., corresponding to 5, 21, and 14 centavos. Silver coms are very
scarce. Besides a few cuartillas I saw only two others, both fifty-cent
pieces, which I bought and kept as curiosities. Gold I did not see.
There are certain designations of currency which are apt to confuse
a stranger; for instance, there are terms which would nearly corre-
spond, if translated, to “hard” and “soft ” dollars. A “peso
fuerte,’ or, as it is often called, a “ fuerte,’ means a dollar of ten
reales, whilst a peso is generally taken to mean a soft dollar of eight
reales.
Later in the afternoon we drove around to the market and bought
some sleeping-mats, or “ esteras.” We had supper about six, and,
being tired out, went to bed early.
Barranquilla, although it covers a considerable area and contains
a population of over 20,000 inhabitants, does not amount to much
as a city except im a commercial sense. There are very few two-
story houses; nearly all are of one story, the majority built of bam-
boo and mud, plastered and whitewashed and thatched with rushes.
The floors are of mud or brick. All of the windows on the street
are protected by a framework of iron or wooden bars which pro-
jects about a foot from the wall. The houses are unprepossess-
ing from the outside, but as we passed along the streets we caught
BARRANQUILLA. ot
glimpses through open doors of charming inner courts filled with
beautiful flowers and plants. We noticed a peculiarity in the way
that the furniture was arranged in the parlors. There were usually
about six black rocking-chairs of bent wood in the room, and they
were in the centre and facing each other in a double row, so close
that they nearly touched.
The furniture of our bedrooms was meagre in the extreme ; an
enameled tin wash-basin and pitcher, a chair, an arrangement called
a cot, but in reality a canvas stretcher fastened to a saw-horse. We
MARKET COURT, BARRANQUILLA.
‘spread our matting over this canvas, then a sheet over the matting,
and the bed was made. Each cot had a good mosquito net sus-
pended above it.
In the market we saw a number of curious things. The market
building is a large one-story structure with an arcade on three sides
38 A FLYING..TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
and a court in the centre. The side without the areade is on
the water’s edge, a side channel of the Magdalena. This front
was crowded with canoes, all dug out of single logs, and some of
surprising size.
We saw a great variety of fruits. The sellers were mainly women,
DUG-OUTS ALONG THE MARKET FRONT.
who squatted with their wares exposed in front of them. The lower
classes here seem to be clean and good-looking ; some of the women
are quite pretty. They wear dresses low necked and short sleeved
with very short waists, & la Madame Récamier; no head covering
beyond a shawl; their hair neatly arranged; a great many with
bright flowers in it. Children up to eight or nine go naked, or
nearly so. We saw several little babies, barely a month old, lying
on the sidewalk sleeping, naked and alone, with nothing under—
BARRANQUILLA, 39
them except perhaps an old piece of bagging or a few plantain
leaves.
The water front of the market seemed to be the place of sale for
fish. Although we saw no fresh fish, there were immense heaps of
dried fish, split in the same way that our fishermen prepare mack-
erel. The greater part were small, but there were some large ones
with immense scales. One that I examined closely looked to me
exactly like the figures of the tarpon. It had the same general
shape, the same thin, projecting under jaw, the large eye and scales.
and the pointed projection from the dorsal fin. The Indian narne
was “ savalo,” and they said that it came from higher up the river.
THE SAVALO OR TARPON.
(From Goode’s ‘* American Fishes.’’)
Those that I saw were about two and a half feet long. Mr. Milli-
can, in his “ Adventures of an Orchid Hunter,” p. 103, speaks of
this fish, and says that he has seen specimens “ seven feet long and
two feet six inches in girth”! We also saw great piles of dried
shrimps, which were sold by measure. They are eaten boiled with
rice, but in my estimation the rice is sadly damaged by the
addition. |
There is in the town a street-car line, where little cars are drawn
by sorry-looking mules, but it does not seem to be patronized. The
streets are paved in but a few places; the rest is soft white sand,
trying to the eyes when the sun is shining, and making all driving
very heavy.
40 A FLYING TEIP TO THE TEOPICS.
SOP, ee ay
COFFEE SELLERS, BARRANQUILIEA.
A great many small donkeys are used, and although they are not
much larger than mastiffs, men ride them, sitting cross-legged like
tailors, to prevent their feet from dragging. One man passed us
perched on top of a little donkey, and with a live pig hanging on
either side, squealing at every step.
There are barracks in the town, with a lot of dirty, unkempt sol-
diers who are continually tooting away on their bugles. Their eall
for taps is almost identical with ours.
There is in the town an electric light plant and also an artificial
ice factory.
In the Hotel Colombia I saw a large scarlet, blue, and green
macaw and a toucan with a serrate beak (Pteroglossus sp.). “This
bird assumed a most curious position when asleep, turning its tail
up over its back and head instead of allowing it to hang as other
BARRANQUILLA. 4]
birds do. In many of the houses along the streets we saw parrots,
parrakeets, and troupials. Black vultures are abundant. They sit
in groups in the cocoa palms, on the roofs and fences, and are con-
tinually flying down into the yards and streets to pick up refuse.
It was cloudy all day, and there were several showers. It was
also hot, especially in the early part of the night.
Tuesday, June 21, 1892. We were awakened before daylight
by the sound of music. It was the military band practicing, and
although they selected such an unusual hour for their practice, I
must admit that the music was excellent. Just about daybreak
flocks of parrakeets began to fly over the town in a steady stream,
and their incessant screeching put sleep out of the question.
We were up early, and after taking some coffee and bread, Cabell
and I went down to the custom-house to get our trunks. Travelers’
baggage up to two hundred pounds (as well as I remember) is
admitted free of duty ; anything beyond this must be paid for at an
exorbitant rate. After waiting around for two hours, we got our
trunks, and had them sent up to the Pension Inglés, then went back
to the Victoria, got together our things, and moved over. We had
a good breakfast about half past eleven, and a little after two
o clock we took a carriage, and, Alice taking a book, and Cabell
dnd myself our guns, we drove out a couple of miles into the coun-
try to have our first experience with South American birds.
We drove along a heavy, sandy road, with tracts of scrubby
growth on either side, and here and there fields of a tall, thick, reedy
grass. We saw no evidences of any crops. When we had gone
out far enough, we turned out of the road, and left the carriage
near an abandoned hut in an open field. We hunted around within
a few hundred yards for about two hours, and saw great quantities
of birds. I shot first, and killed a hawk that was perched in the
top of a thick tree near the roadside. It saw me approaching, but
was not shy, so I had no difficulty in getting within range. Before
I shot at it, it uttered several times a shrill cry, and whilst domg so
held back its head until its beak pointed vertically. It was about
42 Al FLENING PREP LO THE. Ei O EICS.
the size of our Cooper’s hawk, its beak longer and not so hooked,
its feet and claws weaker. Its beak was light bluish, cere yellow,
head and neck dirty white, a dark brown, streak behind the eye, tail
dusky with numerous narrow white bars, these bars becoming con-
fluent at the rump, body and wings brown, below white with a buffy
wash (Milvago chimachima).
Cabell then shot a curious kingfisher-like bird about the size of
our catbird, but with a large head and heavy beak, which was
slightly hooked at the tip, the hook being forked. Avound the
base of its beak were stiff bristles pointing forwards. Its toes were
GROOVED-BILL ANI (CROTOPHAGA SULCIROSTRIS).
BARRANQUILLA. 43
two in front, two behind; its tail-feathers narrow and weak. Its
head and upper parts were dusky, with buff edgings to the feathers ;
there was a dark brown ring across the breast, with a whitish band
below; the throat was buff, with a rusty blotch in the centre. Be-
neath it was buffy, the flanks spotted with brown. There was a
white streak below the eye, and a white band at the back of the
neck. This was a rufous-throated puff-bird (Bucco ruficollis).
I then shot a crotophaga, probably smaller than our crow-black-
bird, but with a much longer tail, a curious high-arched bill; toes,
two in front and two behind ; hackle-like feathers on its neck, and
of a uniform glossy blue-black (Crotophaga sulcirostris 7). A lit-
tle farther on Cabell shot a handsome flycatcher, much lke our
ereat-crested, but larger, with a broad and large beak. Below it
was sulphur-yellow ; above, rufous; its crown blackish, with a con-
cealed light yellow patch, a white streak from its nostrils back
over the eye and entirely around the head. This was probably the
pitangua flycatcher (Jlegarhynchus pitangua). I saw several flocks:
of parrakeets, — one of which lit near us,
and I started to creep
up on them; but they took alarm, and flew before I was within
range. ‘They circled, and came back near Cabell; and he managed
to get one. It was about the size of a robin, but with a long,
pointed tail. Its beak and feet were light brown ; its eyes, brownish
yellow. Its general coloration above was grass-green, with a trace
of blue in the primaries and secondaries; below, it was greenish
yellow ; its upper breast, throat, and face were light greenish brown ;
its forehead of a bluish gray (Conurus eruginosus).
I killed an oriole about the size of our Baltimore oriole ; its beak,
wings, tail, and spot at the base of beak and under chin black; the
rest of its plumage a clear yellow (/cterus wanthornus); a small,
thick-beaked finch of a uniform glistening blue-black ( Volatinia
splendens); a ground dove like those that we killed in Curacao
(Columbigallina passerina); and a second one, somewhat larger,
and of a rufous color (C. rufipennis). Around a calabash-tree we
saw a couple of humming-birds, and Cabell managed to shoot one.
44 A ENING SLEEPS LO AH ts OPCS.
It was glittermg green, almost exactly like those that we got in
Curacao, but its tail was forked (Chlorostilbon angustipennis).
We saw a number of partridges, and tried to get some, but
failed. They were just about the size of our Virginia partridge ;
and, to my surprise, I several times heard them eall “ bob-white.”
All of the birds that we killed were in poor plumage; they were
evidently just beginning to moult.
We saw some brilliantly colored butterflies of various species.
I was surprised at the number of trees and bushes bearmg thorns,
—neatrly all having thorns of different sizes. One tree, of large
size and smooth, ght green bark, had scattered over the trunk
teat-like excrescences an inch or more in height and sharp-pointed,
which would entirely prevent any one from climbing the tree.
Some of the palms had very hard needle-lke thorns, which would
pierce the sole of a shoe; others had rows of short hooks arranged
like the teeth of a saw.
As it was getting towards sundown, we turned back, and reached
the hotel in time for supper.
In the evening the American consul, Mr. Neckius, and his assist-
ant, Mr. Candor, called upon us. It was hot, and there were one
or two heht showers.
Wednesday, June 22, 1892. Cabell and I went out early to see
about engaging passage and staterooms on the steamer Enrique,
which was to start up the Magdalena on the following day for the
head of navigation, Yeguas. After attending to this, we tried to
get a trunk, so as to relieve the crowded condition of ours; but we
could not find a suitable one, so finally bought a “ pataea,” a sort
of bale covering, made of raw hide, the hair side out, which is used
throughout the country as a case for transporting tobacco on mule-
back. It is closed by being laced up with a raw-hide thong.
When we returned to the hotel, we repacked our things, leaving
one trunk clear for skins.
After breakfast, we took our guns and started off on foot. We
walked down the railroad several miles, and, taking it easy, came
BARRANQUILLA. 45
back at five o’clock. While walking along the track about a mile
north of the town, we saw an alligator some four feet in length,
which had been run over and killed by the train. About two miles
down, we left the track, and turned into some scrubby, thorny
woods to our left. Here Cabell shot a parrakeet of the same kind
as the one that he had killed the day before, and a large pigeon,
larger than our dove, but of the same uniform color throughout.
The tips of its tail-feathers were whitish ; but beyond this it had
no distinctive markings. I did not skin this bird, as it was in poor
plumage; and I did not get another specimen, so cannot identity it.
From here, we turned back to the right, recrossed the track, and
went over to the river, where we found a great abundance of water-
birds, the white-winged jacanas, purple gallinules (lonornis mar-
tinica), herons, ducks, ete. There was a skirt of small trees along
the river, with here and there clumps of mangroves. Beyond the
trees were reedy marshes extending out for perhaps half a mile. I
had just reached the bank, and was walking along slowly, when a
horrible-looking creature sprang up from under my feet and rushed
off at a tremendous rate, stopping to look back at me when it had
gone about thirty yards. I fired, and killed it. It was a lizard,
over two feet in length, with very long and wide-spreading toes.
It was brown, with darker markings on its sides, a conspicuous fin-
like crest along its back and tail, and a light gray liberty-cap-look-
ing growth at the back of its head. This was the basilisk (Basilis-
cus americanus). Later we saw quantities of them. They run
with extraordinary rapidity, and stand higher from the ground
when running than any lizard that I have seen. So rapid is the
motion of their feet that they can actually run over the surface of
water. This I saw repeatedly. I know of no other animal that
can do this, except that I have seen frogs keep on the surface for a
succession of rapid jumps; but frogs are web-footed, and these
lizards are not. I saw several cross pools ten feet in width and
keep on the surface for the whole distance. They also climb well.
We saw them in the mangroves on branches overhanging the water.
46 AY EE YENG Ti EES EO: ERE a Eh: OE OS:
As we passed under a low tree, one, frightened by us, sprang out
on Cabell’s back, and thence to the ground, giving him quite a
start. We also saw numbers of other lizards, some striped green,
blue, and yellow; other small ones, gray, with dark red heads.
Wading along the water's edge, we shot a pair of ibises, larger
than our white ibis, but of the same general shape. They were of
ae
BASILISCUS AMERICANUS.
a dark glossy green, their legs, beaks, eyes, bare skin of face and
gular space red (Phimosus infuscatus). We got several shots at
flocks of parrakeets, and killed five or six, all of the same kind.
They had been feeding on mangoes, and it was a difficult matter
to prevent the soft yellow pulp that oozed from their beaks from
soiling their feathers. We also shot some blackbirds of the same
general shape as our red-winged ones, but smaller and with yellow
BARRANQUILLA. 47
TURKEY-BUZZARD (CATHARTES AURA).
(From “Riverside Natural History,” by permission of Houghton, Mifflin & Co.)
heads (Xanthosomus icterocephalus). I shot a small finch with a
chestnut breast and a light gray back, but its plumage was in such
a soiled condition that I did not preserve it (Sporophila sp. 7).
Flying about over the marsh we saw numbers of hawks, but we did
not shoot any, as they would all have fallen into the water beyond
our reach. They were large, dark brown with a conspicuous white
rump, forked tail, and beak with a long hook (Rosthramus socia-
bilis). They quartered about like our marsh-hawk, close to the
surface of the reeds. Among the rushes I saw some little birds
4
conspicuously marked with black and white (/Vwvicola pica). Their
motions seemed to be just like those of our hooded flyeatcher.
They, too, kept out over the water, where we could not go, so we
got no specimens. Cabell shot a hawk lke the one that I had killed
the day before, and I shot a second one very similar to the first,
but with a brown head. It was probably a young one. “ As wild
as a hawk” is an expression of no meaning in Colombia; they are
DP
AEG VN G STG ES SLOW MERE eke ORCS:
not at all shy, and it is an easy matter to approach within range.
We saw a few humming-birds, but got no shots at them. I also
saw some turkey-buzzards (Cathartes aura), but they were scarce in
comparison with the black vultures.
Birds were building at this season, and all were in bad plumage,
so they were probably preparing for second broods. We saw ibises
carrying sticks for their nests. On our way back we stopped at a
little hut m a grove of cocoa palms, and I induced a small. boy to
climb one of the trees and get us some of the green nuts to quench
our thirst with ther milk. After throwing down some of them,
he pulled out a nest from among the thick leaf-stems and threw it
down to us. It contained two small spotted eggs nearly hatched,
which were broken by the fall. The birds flew around uttering
plaintive cries. They were the size of our scarlet tanager, and of
a light bluish gray, darker on the wings and tail (Zanagra cana).
The Indians called them “azulejo,” which translates “ bluebird”
pretty closely.
After supper we skinned some of our birds, having a good deal
of trouble with the parrakeets. It is difficult to get the skin of the
neck to pass the head. It was hot all day, with a heavy rainstorm
in the morning. v
-In the courtyard of our hotel there were several cages of parra-
keets and troupials. One of the latter was a splendid songster, and
imitated to perfection some of the bugle-calls. Whenever any one
irritated it, it puffed out its throat until the hackle-hke feathers
stood out almost on end, and at the same time the pupils of its eyes
contracted until they were mere points.
CHAPTER IV.
THE MAGDALENA RIVER.
Tuurspay, June 23, 1892. We were busy packing in the early
morning, as our boat was to leave at eleven, and at the last moment
we were so hurried that we did not have time for breakfast, but
snatched a few hasty mouthfuls and left. When we reached the
Enrique, we regretted not having taken more time for our break-
fast, for it was three o’clock when we finally moved off. It was
very provoking to have to sit around and wait, but we could not
help it, nor did any one seem to know for what we were waiting.
Just as we were moving off we heard a great outcry, and, looking
back, saw a passenger calling for us to come back for him; so we
‘an in to the shore, and he came aboard. Just imagine, in the
United States, any one gomg at three o'clock to catch a steamer
advertised to sail at eleven !
Whilst waiting at the wharf I noticed on shore great piles of
what I thought were potatoes, but upon examination I found them
to be vegetable-ivory nuts.
A great many kites, like those that we had seen the day before,
flew about the steamer, and I saw them from time to time dip down
eracefully and pick up some floating object from the water.
The Enrique, of which we give an illustration, was built by a
Pittsburgh firm, and, like the Ohio River steamers, is a stern-—
wheeler, burning wood, of two to three feet draught, but high above
water. On the lower deck forward are the boilers with wood stacked
on either side ; then comes the space for crew, freight, and live cattle
for beef on the trip; then the engines. Forward, on the deck above,
OU A HL VEENG, LEP ae O EE: Tle OFLC S:
is piled the passengers’ baggage, and this is where we spent the
greater portion of our time when not driven in by the heat. Next
come the staterooms, eight in number; then an open space, where
we dined ; and in rear the pantry and bathroom. — Still higher is
the pilot-house. The staterooms are small, perfectly plain, with a
single canvas cot in each. No bedding is supplied by the boat, so
a part of every passenger’s baggage is a roll of matting, a pillow,
and a mosquito net. The fare is sixty dollars in paper to Yeguas,
staterooms ten dollars extra. The river steamers are compelled by
law to carry a doctor. Ours was a native, and the captain was from
Curacao.
Our boat was in a side channel of the Magdalena, and had to go
down about a mile before entering the main stream. This side
channel was evidently the laundry for the town. The washerwomen
waded out from its shores up to their waists, and pounded their
soiled clothes on half-submerged diift logs which were scattered
along. When we entered the main stream, we turned short about
and headed due south. We went along slowly ; the river was very
high, muddy, and swift; and, besides, we had lashed to our side
a large lighter, or “ bongo,” filled with extra freight that we had
to take up the river with us. The country was inundated in all
directions, and no high land was in sight. We saw thousands of
water-birds of many kinds: white herons and egrets; large gray and
black herons (Ardea cocoz), somewhat like our blue heron ; a species
of large tern, its body and tail appearing whitish, and its primaries,
in strong contrast, black (Phaéthusa magnirosiris). This tern we
found abundant for four hundred miles up the river. The river
was so high that no sand-bars were exposed, else we would have
seen numbers of alligators ; however, before dark we saw a few large
ones on some logs. The native name is “cayman.” I was told
that there were several species. Shooting at them from the steamers
was prohibited by law some years ago, owing to careless shooting
by which a native woman on shore was killed; but our captain
gave us permission to shoot when we got farther up the river.
imag
Meta NEF has SEN
SU ato Bie
SD eRe Bi ors ese
RIA at
ig ai ee
ros TRUE Rapes GS ay aba 2A
3
mG Reeve Piet
see TR a cena wire Se Mess
THE STEAMER ENRIQUE.
ee,
D2 Ay EE VING. LEP’ RO: EH TO EOS:
There is a good deal of ceremony at meal-times; no one takes
a seat before the captain, and no one rises until he gives the signal.
Should any one wish to rise before, he says, speaking to those
present, “con su permiso,” by your leave. The meals are served
hurriedly by barefooted Indian boys, and were not so bad as we
had been led to expect. There are but two meals a day, though
LAUNDRY AT BARRANQUILLA.
coffee is served soon after daybreak. The bill of fare is about
the same for every meal, soup, beef and vegetables, “ dulce” or
sweets, which usually consists of some fruit such as green figs
or “ guayaba”’ skins, ete., boiled in syrup and served with cottee or
chocolate and cheese. There was neither fresh butter nor milk.
In every possible dish garlic is used and the majority of the dishes
are colored yellow with arnatto. The vegetables are rice, potatoes,
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 595)
yucca, plantains (boiled and
fried), and “ names,” or yams
as we would call them, though
they are entirely different from
the sweet potato to which we give
that name. The meat is always
in slices and is fried or stewed.
Roasts, joints, etc., are unknown.
The climate would not allow a
roast to be kept for even a few
hours. I witnessed one morning
the preparation of the meat for
the day. The cow was quickly
killed and skinned, then the flesh
was literally taken off in ribbons
until nothing but the bones were
left. These ribbons were wound
around slender rods, taken to the
upper deck, and exposed in the
sun. In a few hours they became
like pieces of sole leather. This
is called “ tasajo”’ or jerked beef.
Before being cooked it is soaked
and beaten to soften it. The in-
testines, head, and bones of the
cow were turned over to the crew
of the bongo, who ate all with
relish, including the poor animal’s
unborn calf.
Artificial ice is carried on the
up trip, but gives out about the
fourth day. Filtered river water
is used for drinking, and is fairly
good. The pilots are Indians,
usually old men, and are treated
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=
=
™%,
z
Ais
Way,
NGO
oy
Uy
My
M1 MM Ny
cM gl
UWiyy
MAGDALENA VALLEY TO HONDA.
o+ A HLVING. TEEP PO VSTHE TRGBICS:
with great respect by the rest of the crew. There are no charts,
lighthouses, or buoys, and the water to the inexperienced eye looks
the same im all parts of the river,-yet the channel is continually
changing and the pilots ean tell at a glance when to cross from one
side to the other,
and when to keep
in the centre. The
boat stops three or
four times a day to
take on wood, which
is piled up along
the shore at conven-
ient places and sold
to the steamers by
the owners. There
are no wharves at
any place along the
river. The boat
simply runs up to
the shore, makes
fast to a convenient
tree, and puts out a
gane-plank. The
wood used for fuel
must be dry. It is
COCOA PALMS ALONG THE MAGDALENA. eut into lengths of
two feet, stacked in
regular piles divided by upright stakes into small units called
“burros,” which I suppose means a donkey-load. The price paid
is about fifty cents paper per burro. The wood is loaded by the
crew, who bring it on board on thei shoulders, using a rope fas-
tened around one wrist and held in the other hand to merease the
amount that they ean embrace. They also usually wear a piece of
bagging over their head and shoulder as a protection against scor-
:
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 55
pions and insects that might be in the wood. This loading was a
tedious process.
We also stopped.a few times each day at little mud and thatch
villages to take on or put off freight. The stops are of intermin-
able length; no one seems in any hurry ; after the freight is off
or on they must have an hour’s chat before starting, and when the
signal sounds to start, the crew and passengers have gone off to
STOP AT BANCO.
make purchases or to trade, and must be waited for, so we really
spend as much time in waiting as in traveling. We ran all night ;
but higher up the river, on account of snags and sand-bars, we had
to tie up at night. It was fearfully hot, especially in the early part
of the night, when it was almost unbearable jn the little staterooms.
56 A HE VING ie LO Wis tv ONES:
The majority of the passengers moved their cots out and slept on
deck under heavy mosquito nets. Among the passengers we were
pleased to find Mr. Lindauer and his cousin, on their way to Bogota.
Friday, June 24, 1892. We were up by daybreak, and after
having a cup of coffee went out on deck. At this hour the air felt
cool and fresh, and it was by far the pleasantest portion of the
day. The country through which we were passing was much the
same as that of the preceding day; there were fewer cocoa palms
and more mangoes and plantains along the shores. Magnificent
unbroken forests stretched in all directions as far as the eye could
reach. From time to time we passed little mud huts, thatched here
with palms instead of rushes.
The quantities of herons and other waterfowl that we saw were
incredible, the most abundant bemg the little snowy heron, which
fairly swarms along certain portions of the river. Whilst in Bar-
ranquilla, I saw in one of the papers an advertisement of a New
York dealer who offered to buy for cash the plumes of the snowy
heron and of the white egret. It was accompanied by two wretched
cuts of the birds with deseription of the manner of plucking and
shipping the plumes. For those of the snowy heron he offered from
$425 to $525 paper per pound, for those of the egret from $75 to
$110 paper per pound. I was told that he had obtained somewhere
near $10,000 worth of these plumes. As the snowy heron hardly
ever has a dozen good plumes, and often only five or six, and as
they have hardly any weight at all, one can easily imagine the num-
bers of birds that must have been sacrificed to the whim of fashion.
As we passed a marshy spot, we saw near the water’s edge a herd
of about a dozen reddish brown animals about the size of an aver-
age pig. ‘They were capybaras (Hydrocherus capybara), the lar-
gest of the rodent family. They paid no attention to our boat.
A little farther on, we saw walking about on a grassy spot a
couple of large birds, looking much like our turkey, but having
their heads covered with white feathers (Chauna derbiana).
Later in the day we saw a good many macaws, some green, blue,
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 57
and searlet (Ara aracanga), others blue above and yellow beneath
(A. ararauna). This latter kind was the more abundant. They
fly heavily,.like our crows, and usually by twos. Their long tails are
very conspicuous. Their harsh, discordant cries can be heard as far
as they can be seen, and were usually the first noises that we heard
in the early mornings. We saw quantities of wild ducks of several
kinds. Very often, when the flocks were near the forest, they flew
up into the trees when first alarmed. The largest kind, black with
white wing-spots, is called by the natives “pato real,” royal duck,
By
Fae
) oS
CAPYBARA (HYDROCHGRUS CAPYBARA).
(From ‘Riverside Natural History,’’ by permission of Houghton, Mifflin & Co.)
and is our muscovy (Cairina moschata). Another species, with
brown bodies and red beaks, stood in rows like soldiers along the
sand-bars (Dendrocygna sp.). I saw three kinds of kingfishers, all
in general appearance similar to our belted kingfisher. The largest,
which was larger than ours, was chestnut-red on the entire under
58 A FLYING TRIP 7O THE PROPICS.
surface, including that of the wings (Ceryle torquata); the next in
size was marked like ours, but was glossy green instead of blue
(C. amazona); the third was a miniature of the second, about the
size of a large sparrow (C. americana). We saw all three kinds
enter and come out from holes in the river-banks. The first two
were very abundant, the third scarcer. We saw quantities of hawks
and large flocks of parrakeets, and I saw a single water-turkey or
snake-bird (Anhinga anhinga) flymg high in the air. When the
crew were taking on wood at one place, they killed a couple of
slender snakes which were among the lower: courses, but they were
thrown into the water before I could examine them.
In the afternoon, whilst we were stopping at a small village, a
native came up with a lot of fish in a dug-out canoe. They were
of two kinds: the first, a scale fish somewhat like a perch and of
about one pound in weight, he called “boca chica,’ little mouth ;
the other, a slender catfish, a ‘‘ bagre,” had the same smooth skin,
fleshy dorsal fin and beards that ours has, but its head was pro- -
longed into a shovel shape almost lke a duck’s bill (Platy-
stoma sp.).
It was cloudy at times and hot, with a heavy storm at night.
Saturday, June 25, 1892. When I went out on deck this morn-
ing, | found that we were unloading freight at the town of Ma-
gangué. This is quite a busy little place, known for its annual
fairs. It hes in a strip along the river-bank with no high land
near. At this time many of the cross streets were flooded for a
portion of their length, and our boat lay alongside the sidewalk.
In a native canoe here I saw a skin very much lke that of our otter.
The owner ealled it a “ ntitria,”. which is the Spanish for otter.
A short distance below Magangué the Magdalena separates into
two portions, inclosing a long island. Magangué is on the western
channel some leagues below the mouth of the Cauca. On the east-
ern channel is the town of Mompos, which was formerly of more
importance, but now, being inaccessible by steamers during the sea-
son of low water, it has lost a good deal. Upon leaving Magangué,
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 59
Anarta: FAG be
MAGANGUE FROM THE RIVER.
we returned to the forks of the river, where we picked up our bongo,
which had been left there durmg the night, and then headed for
Mompos. |
About ten o’clock we stopped for an hour for wood, and Cabell
and I took advantage of this to go ashore with a gun. Within fifty
yards of the boat we found a small tree covered with fringy-looking
flowers, and around these some humming-birds were feeding. Ina
few minutes we killed six, two of one kind and four of another.
The first were of moderate size, bills broad at the base, reddish with
dark tips. They were green above, throats metallic green, under
parts ashy, tail, including the upper and under coverts, rufous, the
retrices with narrow bronze edgings (Amazilia fusicaudata). The
second kind were green above, throats glittermg green, lower part
of breast grayish, a white patch on the belly, under tail coverts
60 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
green with gray edges, tail forked and blue-black, the two cen-
tral feathers greenish (Cyanophaia goudoti).
: Near here, Cabell shot
SEEEILIL = into a flock of parrakeets
LES IWC in a mango-tree, and killed
_ —_===— three. They were different
_——__ from the others that we had
SZ
28) a gotten, being smaller and
z Ss \
Is of a brighter green, the
SSS _alula principally blue, un-
AMAZILIA el sees der wing-coverts heht yel-
Sree low, upper coverts brown-
ish green, an orange chin-spot, bill and feet flesh-color (Broto-
gerys jugularis). ‘There was a peculiar point on the inner web of
the third primary. These little birds hang head downwards on the
mangoes, and tear at the soft yellow pulp until nothing but the
seed is left. When a flock is in a thick foliaged tree, although —
they may be very noisy, they are sometimes difficult to see, as their
colors harmonize closely with those of the leaves. Cabell also shot
an “azulejo” (Zanagra cana), a male in fair plumage. We
caught here some beautiful butterflies,
some morphos especially, large ones,
brown beneath with round eye-lke
spots, and above rich azure. Others
with swallow-tails were striped metallic
green and black, and others scarlet
and black.
Throughout my stay in Colombia I
had untold trouble in keeping butter-
o a ATA iL
flies. There was a minute red ant on Pe eae
(From Elliot.)
the boat which soon found anything to
eat, and destroyed it in a few minutes. Some butterflies that I had
put in a tin box the day before were nothing but fragments when
I examined them. The only sure way is to put the box on a little
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 61
pedestal in a basin of water, and to examine it every few hours to
see that the water has not evaporated. After breakfast, we pre-
pared our birds as the beat went along, shot at alligators from time
to time, and tried fishing when the boat stopped, but got no bites.
We saw birds in great abundance, and, among new ones, some large
green parrots. They, like macaws, fly in pairs; but their manner
of flight is as different as possible. They have a rapid, tremulous
wing-beat, exactly like that of our leather-wing bat. Speaking of
bats, there are a great many along the river, and at nightfall we
saw them flying about close to the surface of the water. Some are
much larger than ours, with longer and more pointed wings.
Late in the afternoon we reached Mompos, and shortly after had
the chagrin of seeing the mail-steamer, which left Barranquilla the
day after we left, pass us on her way up. Mompos is an old town,
with some ruins of an ancient cathedral. We bought here from
Indian women who came on board some dulces, guava jelly, limes
preserved in syrup, ete. An Indian offered to sell me for fifty
cents a half-fledged blue and yellow macaw; but whilst I was think-
ing it over the bird uttered one of its horrible squawks, which
decided me to do without it. It was apparently full-sized, and had
a few blue feathers above, but below was naked. I saw in Mompos
a leper, the first I had seen, although I had heard that there were
many in the country. At a number of places along the river we
saw a form of skin disease which was called “carate.’ In some
eases the dark skins of the Indians were covered with light spots
and blotches; in others the spots were bluish black. The hands
were more affected than other portions of the body. There was
nothing malignant about this, simply a discoloration of the skin
similar to sears left by scalding, without any contraction.
We ran all night. It was hot during the day, and hotter at
night.
Sunday, June 26, 1892. We woke this morning early, at a
place called Banco. It is a small village, with the usual cathedral,
situated on a hill or bluff of red clay. There was a crowd of
62 A FLYING TRIP. £O°THE TROPICS:
natives at the landing, with sleepine-mats and other articles for
sale. Here I purchased for forty cents a large and prettily marked
tiger-cat’s skin. Later in the day we ‘stopped several times for
wood, and at one place we went ashore. We saw many wren-
like birds, some resembling our Carolina wren, but as large as a cat-
bird. Cabell shot a second “ azulejo.” During the day we had a
CATHEDRAL AT BANCO.
great many shots at alligators, but struck only a few. Among new
birds I saw several small flocks of roseate spoonbills (Ajaja ajaja),
and some immense flocks of wood ibises (Zantalus loculator). ‘It
was clear and hot during the day, but cooled off a little at night, sO
that we could go to sleep without the preliminary Turkish bath.
Cabell saw to-day, floating in the river, a dead snake about ten feet
in length.
THE MAGDALENA
sat
ie
Fl :
COLOMBIAN SCREAMER (CHAUNA DERBIANA).
Monday, June 27, 1892. Upon waking early I found that we
were unloading at a little group of huts, and as I heard a oreat
many birds, I hastily dressed and hurried ashore with my gun.
Within a few yards of the boat I shot one of the medium-sized
kinefishers, a male, marked like ours with a chestnut belt, but
glossy green above (Ceryle amazona). I saw here a flock of little
64 A FLYING TRIP. TO THE. TROPICS.
short-tailed parrakeets, as small as sparrows (Psittacula conspicil-
lata), and some little swallows about the size of our bank-swallow,
with white bodies and dark wings (Tachycineta albiventris 7). I
had to hurry back to the boat before I could shoot any more, and
on our way up the river I skinned the kingfisher. Later im the
day we stopped again, and I went ashore, but found it so intensely
hot that I soon came back. I saw here, with some chickens, a pair
of the turkey-like birds that I had seen on the 24th. They had
red legs, with long straight toes and claws, and spurs on the last
joint of their wings. Their general plumage was black; their
faces white, with a red ring around the eyes, and a feathery horn
on each side of the head (Chawna derbiana). In the afternoon
the boat stopped for wood, and we went ashore again. This time I
got a fine pigeon, a male, as large as our domestic pigeon. It had
a bluish rump, ferxehead, and throat, purplish back and wings, a
metallic green nape, red feet, eyes, and lids (Columba rufina). 1
saw during the day several caracara eagles (Polyborus cheriway),
and with my glass I could plainly see the brilliantly colored skin of
their faces. Ail day long we saw enormous flocks of ducks, wood
ibises, and parrakeets, and quantities of white herons, white egrets,
cocoi herons, blue and yellow macaws, parrots, hawks, kingfishers,
and a few fish-hawks (Pandion haliwtus carolinensis). We fired
many times at alligators, and saw some very large ones. We tied
up to the shore at night, as the river had become too full of snags
and bars to navigate except by daylight. We struck sand-bars
twice in the afternoon, but fortunately got off easily. For the last
two days we have had lovely views of blue mountains. To-day
they were to the west of us. It was clear and very hot durimg the
day ; but we had a shower at bedtime. 3
Tuesday, June 28, 1892. We were up early, and at the first
stop for wood went ashore with our guns. We found the land to
be only a few inches above the level of the river, of a soft black
mud, and near the water covered with a heavy growth of large
canna-like plants, with red and yellow flowers. Around these were
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 65
feeding some humming-birds, and Cabell shot a pair. They were
larger than any that we had met before, and had long curved bills,
the lower mandible yellow, the upper dark with a yellow streak on
each side. Above they were metallic green, the upper tail-coverts
with light buff edgings, the throat
rufous, under parts buffy, central
tail-feathers green with whitish
tips, the others rufous with whit-
ish tips and a blackish subtermi-
nal bar. There was a light buff
streak from the gape and another
from behind the eye (Glaucis hir-
suta). One of these, a female,
had a number of white feathers
GLAUCIS HIRSUTA.
scattered among the green ones Aas
of the back. I shot here one of
the rufous-tailed humming-birds (Amazilia fuscicaudata). From
this place we pushed on about fifty yards, until we reached the
edge of the forest, and here we found birds in abundance. Cabell
shot first and killed a large bird nearly the size of our crow. This
was a male. It had an oriole bill, black with a coral red tip, a
light blue excrescence on each side at the base of the lower man-
dible, a flesh-colored excrescence on its forehead, and light blue
skin around and back of its eye. Its feet were crow-like and black.
lis under parts, head, neck, and wings were black, the feathers of
the neck with white bases. From its forehead sprung three long
filamentous feathers. Its upper wing-coverts, scapulars, centre of
its rump, and under tail-coverts were rich chocolate. Its tail was
clear yellow with the exception of the two central feathers, which
were black, and which in this specimen extended only halfway down
to the tip of the tail (Gymnostinops guatimozinus). The natives
called it an “oro péndola,”’ gold hang-nest; but they apply this
name indiscriminately to all the oriole family that build pendent
nests. About the same time I shot another, very similar in style
66 A FLYING TRIP TO THE THOPICS.
and pattern of coloration, but of about half the size. This was a
female, its bill plain ivory without excrescences, and the feathers on
its crown only slightly prolonged, otherwise its coloration was the
same (Ostinops decumanus). The two kinds were together in a
large straggling flock. Still later I shot a third, smaller yet, black
with a black tail, a clear yellow rump, under tail-coverts, and wing-
spot. Its bill, which was slightly curved, was a pinkish ivory, and
the feathers of the crown were slightly prolonged (Cassicus flavi-
crissus). This also, like the first two, had white bases to the
feathers of the nape. These birds build together in communities. -
A number of times, along’ the river, we saw in large detached trees
a dozen or more of their nests hanging like stockings from the
extreniities of the branches. As I shot the second, I heard the
“ORO PE NDOLA’’ (GYMNOSTINOPS GUATIMOZINUS).
aGsKeclemats a:
_ Nintern Bros. Chromo lith. London.
l= SHOMIVAC IONE COM Gar CILLATA, Lafr.
Bhie-rumped Parrakeet.
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 67
harsh screams of some macaws ahead of me, so I pushed on through
the trees, and got a long shot at one which fell screaming in a
thorny Jungle. I forced my way into it, and as I picked it up it
bit my thumb until the blood streamed, and before I could choke
it off I began to be afraid that my thumb would be cut in two.
Its cries attracted its mate, which I also shot. They were smaller
than any macaws that I had seen, and were in wretched plumage.
Their general color was a grass-green, bluish about the head, a
reddish brown stripe on the forehead, primaries blue above, reddish
beneath, under wing-coverts scarlet, tail reddish at base, then green,
then blue, but reddish beneath, skin of face white with lines of
bristly black feathers, beak black, feet dark (Ara severa),
A little later I shot a pair of the small parrakeets that I had seen
for several days past. ‘They were miniature parrots, no larger than
sparrows, a bright grass-green, with secondaries, upper and under
wing-coverts, rump, and ‘a ring around the eye a deep blue, beak
and feet flesh-color (Psittacula conspicillata).
I also shot a tanager, which the natives called a “cardinal.” It
was like our scarlet tanager in size and distribution of color, except
that the scarlet, which was beautifully clear on the rump, grew
darker towards the head until it became a dark garnet. The plu-
mage was velvety, especially the black of the wings. The upper
mandible was black, the lower a light horn-color (Lamphocelus
dimidiatus). Cabell then shot a small puff-bird about the size of
our pewee, but with a larger head and weaker tail. Its upper man-
dible was forked at the tip like that of the one that we shot at
Barranquilla. It was black above, white below, with a black collar,
white specks on the forehead, a white spot on the scapulars and a
httle white on the rump (Lucco subtectus). Just as we were getting
on the boat, he shot a beautiful little bird about the size of our
chipping-sparrow, glossy blue-black above, with a yellow forehead
and bright yellow below (Huphonia crassirostris). This was a
male, and in better plumage than any bird that we had gotten so
ar. The female, as I found out later, is of a plain greenish yellow.
es A FLYING TRIP. TO THE THOPICS.
After the boat started, I was busy for several hours skinning the
birds. The macaws were especially troublesome, as the skin of the
neck refused to pass over the skull.
[In the afternoon the boat stopped again and we went ashore, but
it was so boiling hot that very few birds were stirring. Cabell,
who was some distance ahead of me, fired, and as I came up he
called out that he had killed a humming-bird as large as a tanager.
It was certainly a beautiful bird, and its metallic plumage and long
bill eave it a slight resemblance to a humming-bird. It was a yacar
mar, brilliant metallic green and bronze above, including the two
central tail-feathers. The remaining tail-feathers and the under
parts were rufous. Its throat was white and was separated from the
breast by a band of the same color as the back (Galbula ruficauda).
I saw here a pair of toucans, and got a shot at one, but failed to get
it or to see whether I had hit it or not. Its breast was dark red ;
its other colors L could not distinguish. TL also saw in the forest a
number of dark reddish squirrels with white bellies. They were the
size of our gray squirrel and were extremely gentle, allowing me
almost to touch them with my gun-barrel as they sat watching me.
On my way back to the boat a bird fluttered up from the thick
erass in front of me, and I got it by a snap shot, but my heavy
choke-bore unfortunately spoiled it as a specimen. It was a species
of whippoorwill, just about the size of ours, and, like ours, had
bristles alone its gape. It had a white throat-patch, and beneath
was marked just like our night-hawk, but the ground color was
more reddish brown. Its wings and. tail were. somewhat like a
whippoorwill’s, the wings with a light buffy spot on the primaries.
lis back was mottled and the seapulars had buffy outer edges
(Nyctidromus albicollis). Several times at night along the river
[ heard the ery “whip-poor-will,’ and others very similar, but I
do not know what bird uttered them.
At this place the steward of the boat came up to me with two
dirty white egos just the size and shape of those of our yellow-
‘OD
billed cuckoo. Showing them to me, he said, “azul, azul” (blue,
(y
1S
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 69
blue), and going off he returned with a saucer of wood ashes and a
moist rag, and began to rub the eggs. In a short while all of the
white disappeared and they became the color of a robin’s eve. He
said that they were the eggs of the ani.
In the afternoon I skinned the birds, and we shot a good many
times at alligators. The river was now very crooked and swift and
full of sand-bars and snags, so at dusk we tied up for the mht.
At this place we saw two long-tailed monkeys make off through the
treetops as we came up. We saw quantities of birds all day, blue
and yellow macaws, ducks, herons, ibises, parrakeets, spoonbills, ete.
T was fighting red ants throughout the day. The few butter-
flies that I had captured, I tried m every way to save. They were
put in tin boxes with camphor, but whenever they were left for two
hours I invariably found them literally swarming with ants, their
heads and bodies eaten off, and their wings coming to pieces. No-
thing but putting them on a tumbler in a basin of water protected
them. 'This was impracticable for bird-skins, and T was afraid: that
IT would lose them all. I put the skins m the tray of my trunk,
which I suspended by strings from the ceiling, but by meht I dis-
covered the ants traveling up and down the strings im an unbroken
eolumn. After this | rubbed the strings with kerosene oil and car-
bolie acid, and tied lumps of camphor to them, but the ants were
not delayed in the slightest. [ finally borrowed from the steward
three soup-plates, which T filled with water and placed im the centre
of each a tumbler; on these three pedestals I put my tray, and the
ants were baffled at last.
It was clear and very hot, especially in the early night, but we
were not troubled by mosquitoes.
Wednesday, June 29, 1892. Cabell was taken with a shght
fever last night, caused by going out m the hot sun yesterday atter-
noon. He felt badly all day, so did not leave the boat. At our
first stop, Lindauer and myself went ashore and killed a number of
birds. I shot first a pair of the little blue-rumped parrakeets (s/t
tacula conspicillata), a male and female. The female is plain grass-
70 A FLYING TRIP TO THE. TROPICS.
green without any blue. Ina marshy spot near a little stream, I
shot one of the black and white birds that I had seen in the marshes
at Barranquilla. It was a male, a little smaller than a pewee, white,
with wings, tail, back of head, and centre of back black (fluvi-
cola pica). Lalso shot three more jacamars (G. ruficauda) and a
puff-bird like the one we got at Barranquilla (B. ruficollis). Lin-
dauer shot a couple of flycatchers ; the first, a male, smaller than
our bee-martin, yellow below, brownish olive above, crown brown,
with a large yellow and orange patch, white streak from nostrils
above eye to back of head, and throat white (J/yiozetetes cay-
ennensis); the second, a female, about the size of our great-crested
flycatcher, plumbeous above, a small orange crown-patch, throat and
breast grayish, and below light yellow (Zyrannus melancholicus).
He also shot a most peculiar and beautiful little bird, a male in fine
plumage. It was about the size of a wren, but with an extremely
short and awkward-looking tail. Its legs were white with a scarlet
ring above the tarsus, its head rich golden yellow becoming orange
with traces of scarlet at the back. The rest of its plumage was
glossy blue-black. Its eyes were white with fine red lids, and
its bill hght yellow (Pipra auricapilla). At this place I saw a
flock of certainly five hundred of the orange-chinned parrakeets
(Brotogerys jugularis) m a mango-tree near the boat.
After leaving this place, we stopped no more until we tied up for
the night ; so I spent the rest of the day in skinning the birds and
shooting at alligators. Every sand-bar, or “playa” as they are
called, was sure to have a number on it. They generally le in the
sun with their mouths wide open, the upper jaw making an angle
of forty-five degrees with the lower. When shot at, they sometimes
slid off into the water like terrapins from a log; but when they
were well up on the playa, they rose. deliberately to their feet and
walked off, their bodies looking as high from the ground as that of
a dog.
All day long the river was very crooked; there were bluffs of
red clay along the shores; the country was not so marshy, and we
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 71
i
}
HAT
i
- SS
Reda a ne
LOOKING DOWN THE MAGDALENA FROM BANCO.
saw no ducks or white egrets, but numbers of macaws, parrots,
kingfishers, and wood ibises. The doctor gave Cabell a sudorifie,
and at night he was much better. We spent a very hot night,
tormented by mosquitoes.
Thursday, June 50, 1892. We made an early start this morn-
ing, and did not stop until we reached Puerto Berrio, about ten
o'clock. This is a village on the western bank of the Magdalena,
and is the starting-pomt for the Antidquia Railroad, which is des-
tined to reach Medillin, the capital of the department of Antidquia,
but which now terminates at Pavas, about twenty-five miles from the
river. Here Lindauer and myself went ashore with the guns. Cabell,
although feeling well, thought it best to keep out of the sun. We
went back a short distance along the railroad track; but it was
72 A FLYING TRIP FO THE PROPICS.
rather late in the day for the birds to be stirring, so we saw only a
few. I got two new ones: the first a tanager, a male just the size
of the “cardinal.” It was velvety black, with a beautifully clear
yellow rump, its bill ight horn-color with darker cutting edges
(Ramphocelus icteronotus). The second was a humming-bird, a
female, green above, the rump and tail-
feathers bronzy, the lateral tail-feathers
growing darker towards the ends and
tipped with white. Below it was gray-
ish, with a few metallic green and blue
feathers on the throat (Polyerata ama-
bilis). The natives call humming-birds
“‘chupa flores,” flower-suckers, and some-
times “ pica flores.”” Several hours later
in the day the boat stopped again and we
POLYERATA AMABILIS.
(From Elliot.)
went ashore, but it was too scorching hot
for anything to be stirring. I shot a large oriole, about the size
of our robin, with a black beak, face, chin, and wings, and black
and yellow tail, the rest of the plumage yellow. It was in such
poor plumage that I did not preserve it, so now have to regret not
being able to identify it.
On my way back to the boat I saw up a small tree what I thought
was a very large snake, but upon closer examination I found it to
be an iguana, which I shot and carried back with me. It was forty-
three inches in length, the greater part of this being taken up by its
tail, which tapered to a point and was striped with broad bands of
gray and black. Its body, which was about the size of our rabbit’s,
was green with black marks. Along its back was a row of leath-
ery spines (longer than in the species figured), and beneath its
throat was a pouch or dewlap. I skinned its body, and got one of
the bongo men to cure the skin for me by rubbing it with wood-
ashes. Its flesh, which is eaten by the natives, looked good, and I
noticed that it had the same odor as that of our bull-frog. At this
place there were a few Indian huts, and around them a small grove
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 73
of cacao-trees, from which chocolate is made. They were not
over twenty-five feet high, smooth barked and big leaved. The fruit
looked very much like an oblong warty squash, and grew close to
the main trunk and large limbs. They were about eight inches
long, some green, others a deep purplish red, and when cut open
showed a white pith in which were imbedded bean-like seeds the
size of our lima beans but thicker. These, when ripe, are taken
IGUANA TUBERCULATA.
out, roasted, and then ground between two stones, mixed with
coarse sugar, and the result is chocolate. Hung up against one of
the huts to dry, I saw several peccary skins of the plain unbanded
species (Dicotyles labiatus). I was told that they were common in
the forest here. :
Lower down along the river the native huts are made of a wattle
of split bamboo, or small sticks, daubed with mud and thatched
with palm-leaves (see page 55), but here the walls are made ma
74 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
different manner. The large cane or bamboo, the “ guaduas,” which
often is six inches in diameter, is taken and partially split in a
number of places about an inch apart, after which the whole tube
can be opened out, making a very rough plank from a foot to
eighteen inches in width. These are lashed to the framework with
bark or slender vines. We also saw many huts with nothing but
a roof and the four corner posts, protection from the sun and rain
being all that was required.
The natives along the river are, as a rule, cleanly, amiable, inof-
fensive, and very indolent. All carry the “machete,” a long and
heavy sword-like knife, which is: the universal tool. It is about
thirty inches long, sharp on one edge, the back being very thick,
and the blade widens from the handle until near the point, where
it is sometimes five inches broad, then tapers suddenly. It is used
like a cleaver. Those that 1 saw were made in England and in
the United States. They are sometimes carried in a heavy leather
scabbard, sometimes in a small loop of leather tied around the waist.
I saw a few axes, but they were all of the old Spanish pattern, like
those shown in the old illustrations of ‘“‘ Robinson Crusoe,” the blade
fan-shaped, with a ring at the back for the insertion of the handle.
Notwithstanding the tremendous forests, lumber of all kinds is
scarce and dear. There are few, if any, saw-mills; boards are usu-
ally sawn out by hand, and a plank ten feet long, a foot wide, and
an inch thick sells for a dollar in gold.
Although the natives are indolent, they can work, for the bongo
men sometimes toil day after day under the broiling sun for a month
or six weeks, poling their heavy bongos up the Magdalena. And,
after all, a living comes so easily to them, their wants are so few
and so easily supplied, that there is no incentive for them to work.
When a native wishes to set up a house for himself, he selects a con-
venient spot along the river’s bank, then with his machete cuts
down the bushes and vines and girdles the larger trees over an acre
or two, clears off the débris by fire, then plants a hundred plantain
shoots. In a little over six months the plants will have fruit ready
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 75
for food. One bunch, which can be bought along the river for a
real, will keep a man in food for ten days. The plantains are eaten
ereen or ripe, boiled, baked, fried, or raw, and are a fair substitute
for potatoes and bread. As soon as the bunch of fruit is cut off,
the plant is cut down close to the ground, and it immediately puts
up fresh shoots which bear again in six months, and so on. The
natives call plantains “ platanos,” and bananas they call “ platami-
tos,” little plantains. The bananas that we got in Colombia were
A BONGO OR CHAMPAN ON THE MAGDALENA.
(By permission of Bureau of American Republics.)
among’ the most delicious of fruits. They were small, with a skin
as thin as a kid glove, and of an exquisitely delicate flavor, incom-
parably superior to those that we have. These will not bear
transportation. From seeing the bunches before our fruit stores, I
had always thought that bananas grew pendent on the bunch, but
they grow with their free ends pomting up. The natives raise a
little corn, but there is no systematic method of planting or cultivat-
ing it. The difference in cultivation is shown by the ears, on which
the grains are irregularly distributed, and not in long parallel
rows as in our corn. As there are no mills, they grind the little
76 A PLE VING -ERIP LO THE TROPICS:
corn that they need between two stones, the same two stones that are
used m making chocolate and also in grinding coffee. The river
supphes them with fish and turtle m abundance, and they easily
\ e S = ah : SN sf $ «< Z “ZB Pee \
CITRON-BREASTED TOUCAN,
trap different birds near their huts. They need but few clothes,
they raise enough tobacco for their own use, and the native rum,
“aouardiente,” costs about the same as our cider. Their household
furniture is limited to a few hammocks, two or three earthenware
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. ee
pots, and a supply of calabashes and turtle shells which serve as
dishes and spoons.
‘n the afternoon we came to a portion of the river called “ An-
gostura,” or narrows, very narrow and swift, where even with a full
head of steam we barely crept along. Here I saw a great many
turtles and alligators, large flocks of macaws, and some roseate
spoonbills. Late in the afternoon we stopped for wood and I went
ashore, but did not take my gun. Lindauer took one of the guns,
and in a few minutes returned with two new birds. The first was
a very fine toucan, a female in good plumage. It was about the size
of our crow, had a very large, finely serrate beak which was bril-
hantly colored with black, white, green, blue, and yellow. Its eye
and the skin of its face were a beautiful peacock-blue, its feet light
blue. Its general color was black, breast, throat, and face light yel-
low, becoming white on the cheeks, and separated from the black of
the under parts by a bright red belt. Its tail was black and square,
the upper coverts yellow, the lower bright red (L2amphastos citreo-
lemus. (See frontispiece.) The second was a parrot, the size of
a small pigeon, a female in poor plumage. Its beak was black with
a coral-red spot on each side, general plumage green, and head
and neck blue, ear-coverts black, a few rosy feathers among the
blue of lower throat, the four central tail-feathers green with blue
tips, the others blue, rosy at the base. The under coverts were
pink with blue stems and yellow tips, the edge of the wing pink
and yellow (Pionus menstruus). I found both the toucan and
parrot difficult to skin on account of the smallness of the neck.
The colors of the beak and skin of the toucan faded in a few hours.
The nostrils of the toucan were not in the beak proper, but in the
crease between the base of the beak and the frontal feathers. The
““pope’s nose” of the toucan was longer than that of any bird that
I have skinned, and it is so freely jomted that the bird can move its
tail in any position. It is owing to this structure that when roosting
the toucan can turn its tail over to cover its back and head.
The boatmen killed m the woodpile here a scorpion, plain olive-
78 4A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
green in color, and the size of a small fiddler crab. We tied up
for the night. It was hot, but we were not troubled by mosquitoes.
Friday, July 1, 1892. We made an early start and did not
stop until late in the forenoon, when it was too hot to find many
birds. I went ashore and killed a curved-billed humming-bird lke
7, a werkKXiA ~ SS
COLLARED ARAGARI (PTEROGLOSSUS TORQUATUS).
those that we had shot on June 28 (Glaucis hirsuta), and a pair
of new toucans, smaller than the one that Lindauer killed. Their
tails were longer and the feathers graduate like those of our cuckoo.
Their beaks were deeply serrate, the upper mandible yellowish
white with a black tip, a black streak on top, and a reddish mark at
the side of base ; the lower mandible black, and both bordered at the
THE MAGDALENA RIVER. 79
base by a white line. The skin of the face was scarlet, the eyes
yellow, and the feet olive-green. The head and throat were blue-
black, a brown collar at the back of neck; back, wings, and tail
greenish black, rump scarlet, below yellow, orange on the breast, a
black spot in centre of the breast, and lower a black and red belt,
the thighs brown (Pteroglossus torquatus). Both were females
in poor plumage. Their tongues were bristly, like a worn-out
feather. The remainder of the day I did but little.
The river-banks became higher and gravelly, the water much
colder, and fewer alligators were seen. We dropped our bongo, so
made better time, and taking advantage of the moonlight, we ran
until nine o’clock, and finally tied up about fifteen miles below
Yeguas, our destination. It was very hot all day, but cooled a little
after sunset.
CHAPTER V.
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS.
SaTurDAY, July 2, 1892. We made an early start, but stopped
for wood a few miles below Yeguas. J was busy getting our bag-
gage together, but went ashore at this place. I saw no birds, but
found scattered about over the ground a number of land shells,
Y
LAND SHELL FROM NEAR YEGUAS.
white, with rosy lips, the largest that I had ever seen, larger than
lemons, some being four inches long (Lulimus oblongus, Mill.).
I brought back several with me. 1 was told that the animal inhab-
iting these shells lays an egg much similar in size, shape, and color
to the eggs of the little ground dove. Shortly after I came on
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. roll
THE
DIAMOND RATTLER.
(From ‘“ Riverside Natural IHistory,’”’ by permission of Houghton,
Mifflin & Co.)
board, some of the men came down
to the boat, dragging a very large
rattlesnake, which they had just : 3
killed near the spot where I had bg i =
picked up the shells. It was not
so brightly colored as those that we have in Virginia, but was rusty
brown, with a series of dull yellowish, diamond-shaped marks along
its back. The native name for rattlesnake is “ cascabel.”’
Just before reaching Yeguas the river becomes very rapid, and
curves to the left for almost half a circle. Yeguas, which is on the
western bank, is a collection of four or five bamboo and thatch
huts upon the top of a gravelly bank, some twenty feet above the
water. One of these huts serves as a station for the Dorada Rail-
road, which runs from here to Honda, about fourteen miles above.
We arrived at ten o’clock, just half an hour too late for the morn-
ing train, so were compelled to wait on board until half past three.
The road is narrow gauge, the cars small and not very clean, and
the country hot and dusty. At Yeeuas the character of the coun-
try changes abruptly, the heavy forests disappear; their place is
taken by level plains, good examples of geological terraces, with
here and there high, flat-topped, and barren hills. The strata in
the hills he horizontally, and erosion has produced the same style
of landscape as seen in many pictures of Arizona. ‘Jpon leaving
82 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
Yeguas, the train first goes up a steep incline, until 1t gets upon the
level terrace, where it runs for some time ata fair rate of speed.
This plain is in parts several miles broad, covered with a very rank
sort of grass or broom straw; and scattered here and there are
clumps of palms. A great many cattle were feeding about. Along
here on the telegraph poles I saw a number of small hawks, appar-
ently the same as our sparrow-hawk, and some large buzzards,
larger, perhaps, than our red-tailed hawk, with dark reddish brown
wings (Lfeterospizias meridionalis 7).
After going about five miles, we heard a great whistling and
tooting of the engine, and looking out saw
that we had just run over a cow. Instead
of stopping the tram, the engineer tried
to pull it over the cow; so, after she had
been dragged several hundred yards, and
had rolled from one car to another, until
she reached the centre of the train, the
rear wheels of a truck were thrown from
the track, and we had to stop. By the
help of two wedge-like inclined planes of
steel, the car was gotten back with but
little delay ; but the poor animal: was
found with her neck wedged between the
wheels of the following car. After trying
in vain for fifteen minutes to back or pull
the rest of the train over the body, they
concluded to take an axe and cut off her
head, after which she was pulled out, load-
ed up on a flat, and we went ahead.
A few miles below Honda, the moun-
tains, which here are barren, dusty, precipitous, and furrowed with
gullies and ravines, close in on the river until it is shut in in a
deep gorge. At Honda, there flows into the Magdalena from the
west the Guali, a small, swift, and extremely muddy stream of
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 83
some thirty yards in width; and a few hundred yards above, a
second and smaller stream comes in. Between these there is a
comparatively level terrace which widens considerably as one goes
back from the river, and on this and along the river-shore the town
is built.
We reached Honda about five, and went at once to the best hotel,
a very neat one kept by two Englishmen, Messrs. Bowden and Will-
cox. It was a positive luxury, after beg cramped up on the
steamer for so many days, to get into a clean and spacious room, to
find cots with clean sheets, and above all to have clean and appetiz-
ing food. After seeing that Alice was comfortably fixed, Cabell
and I went out to cail upon our consul, Mr. Henry Hallam, and to
take a look at the town. We did not find Mr. Hallam, but at his
office was a cablegram, sent from New York the preceding day,
saying that all were well at home.
The town is not of much size, and offers nothing of especial
interest. It is said to be the hottest place on the river, and deserves
its reputation. It is shut in by the parched and baked mountains,
and the few breezes that stir feel like blasts of hot air from a fur-
nace. ‘The houses are of the usual type, some thatched, some tiled.
Through the enterprise of Mr. Hallam, water has lately been
brought into the town. This gentleman has also established a line
of wagons running westward to Mariquita over the terraces of the
valley of the Guali. I mention this as wheeled vehicles are prac-
tically unknown throughout the interior of Colombia. I was told
that the muddiness of the Gauli was due to the hydraulic working
of gold mines near its head-waters. This river was in former times
spanned near its mouth by a ponderous masonry bridge of two
arches, but this was destroyed by the earthquake of 1805, and now
there is a fair iron bridge thrown across from the old abutments,
and a short distance above there is a second bridge of wood. In
the upper members of this iron bridge several large swallows
had their nests. The centre pier of the original bridge remains,
twisted to one side, and leaning up-stream. There are in the
84 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
RUINS OF BRIDGE OVER THE GUALI DESTROYED BY EARTHQUAKE.
town the ruins of a large cathedral which was destroyed at the
same time.
The Magdalena here is very swift, the rapids in front of the town
being like those below Niagara Falls, and it is of course impassable
for steamers; but above the rapids there are some small steamers,
running irregularly, which have at times continued the navigation of
the river almost, if not quite, as far as the town of Neiva.
We saw piled up near the railroad station many small bags filled
with a heavy sand-like silver ore, intended for shipment to England.
Along the streets | saw a number of men with bad-looking ulcers
about their ankles and shins, and a few with elephantiasis, a form
of leprosy in which the ankle thickens enormously.
We were so pleased with our hotel that we thought of waiting
here for several days to recuperate, but about dusk Lindauer came
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 85
in to say that he would leave for Bogota early the next morning,
and that his muleteer had enough mules to supply us also, so we
concluded to go on, and accordingly sent our trunks on ahead, so
that they could be gotten across the river before we started. It was
clear and hot.
Sunday, July 3, 1892. For the last five or six days on the river
we had been without ice, and for a refreshing drink had taken a
great deal of lemonade made from the limes, or “ limones,” that
were found in abundance at every village. This had somewhat
upset me, so I was not feeling particularly well; however, we had a
hight breakfast at six, and started soon after. There was no train
running, so we had to walk up to the ferry at Arranca Plumas,
about a mile above the town. !t was the ordinary swing ferry; a
SWING FERRY AT ARRANCA PLUMAS.
(After Millican.)
86 A. FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
wire cable is stretched across the river, and on this a pulley runs.
The boat, a large flat lighter, is fastened diagonally to the puiley,
and the force of the current carries it across. It usually stops about
twenty feet from the shore, and is hauled in the rest of the way by
a rope thrown out from the landing. Once across, we scrambled up
a steep and rough bank of loose pebbles and sand to a little ledge
some thirty feet up the mountain-side, where there were four or five
miserable bamboo and thatch huts. These, although their thresh-
olds were on a level with the road, were thirty feet from the
ground at the back, and supported on rickety bamboo poles. The
floors were of split bamboo with cracks through which one’s foot
might easily slip. In these huts were sold various drinks and some
dirty food for those whom hunger compelled to eat there. In front
of them were great heaps of boxes and bales on their way to the
interior. This is the terminus of the high-road to Bogota, a city
that now claims over one hundred thousand inhabitants.
Of course, our trunks had not gotten across after all, and when
they were finally over, the mules had not arrived, and when the
mules came, we were two hours in loading. Whilst waiting here,
we took a poor breakfast to fortify curselves for the road ahead of
us. In the trees just at the landing I saw several large flocks of
the orange-chinned parrakeets.
Our trunks were lashed with ropes of raw hide, one on each side
of the little mules, and smaller parcels were put between. If the
trunks did not balance, the lighter one was made heavier by tying
stones to it. The mules have no other harness than a pair of
pillow-like pads, which are furnished with both breast-straps and
breeching. When all are loaded, they are started off by the drivers,
or “arrieros,” who follow on foot, keep the herd moving, and drive
in the stragglers. The arrieros keep up a continual whooping and
whistling, so that the mules may know that they are close behind,
applying to them a choice selection of epithets, — “ animalito,”
“mula del diabolo,” ete. The loads are continually slipping, and
when they shp must be rearranged at once. The arrieros are very
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 87
dexterous at this. They throw their poncho over the mule’s head,
to blindfold it, and it stands perfectly quiet until the poncho is
removed. They go along at a pretty good rate, but it is pitiful
to see the little creatures staggering under two enormous pack-
ing-boxes as large as themselves. Often, when they get a chance
PACK-MULE WITH TRUNKS AND SLEEPING-MATS.
to stop, they lie down at once, and then cannot rise without the
help of the arriero, who is certain to add blows to his aid. At
numbers of places along the road we saw bones where the poor
animals had died on the way. In this manner all freight is carried
to and from Bogoté. We met a great many trains on their way
down to the river. Some came nnloaded: to carry back freight, but
the greater part brought down bales of hides or bags of aioe.
We finally canted and started off shortly sine eleven, leaving
the baggage to follow on. Alice and I rode hor ‘ses; the rest were
mounted on mules. The saddle, rade, etc., are apalen of collee-
tively in Spanish as “la montura.” Our nee had large horns,
and were furnished with br ‘east-straps as well as with both erupper
Ss 4 FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
and breeching. The bridles and bits were very heavy, the stirrups
of brass and shaped like a Turkish shpper. The men, when riding,
wear enormous spurs and a kind of leggings called ‘ zamorras,”
something like the baggy rubber leggings used among us. They
are made of eanvas, rubber-cloth, or of leather, and are buekled
together at the waist, thus forming a pair of trousers without a
seat. Some that I saw were made of puma-skins. They are so
voluminous that they completely cover the rider’s feet, and when
he dismounts they look like an awkward skirt and interfere with
ADJUSTING LOAD ON PACK-MULE.
his walking. (See page 97.) Vor the first two miles the road,
ascending slowly, ran along the river to the south over what was
once the beginning of a railroad. The embankments had washed
away In many places, the cuts had caved in, and at one spot we
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 89
passed a dilapidated old locomotive rotting away, with weeds grow-
ing over the boiler. This road was to have reached Bogotd, but
the funds gave out with the first two miles. At the end of this
we turned in abruptly to our left and began a steep ascent, zig-
zageing in and out of the gulley-like ravines that ran down to the
river. When near the crest of the first ridge, the road ran over
a rocky surface which seemed to me impassable. It sloped up at
an angle of about forty-five degrees, but the feet of the mules had
worn little pocket-lke steps in the stone, and our animals went up
without a slip. At the top we went through a narrow gorge, then
along over comparatively level ground for a short distance, then up
and through a second gorge so narrow that my stirrups scraped the
sides, and down and across a rough valley several miles wide. This
valley was hot and dry, but in the centre we crossed quite a large
stream flowing to the south, and on the farther side we followed up
the partly dry bed of another watercourse until we struck the foot
of the first heavy range. Here the worst part of the road began.
All travelers in Colombia, from the time of Humboldt to the
present day, have commented upon this road from Honda to Bogota,
and all agree in calling it superlatively bad; but none have done
it justice. In my limited experience I had been over some of the
worst roads in the western part of North Carolina and in West
Virginia, and I could not conceive that roads could be worse, but
they are pleasant drives compared to this. [am powerless to de-
scribe it, and the photographs which I took on my return trip give
no idea of the steepness of the road, since I had to pomt my camera
either uphill or downhill, and thus the perspective of the slope
was lost. In former times this road had been paved with blocks of
stone, some of them as large as pillows. This pavement was in some
places intact, but in a great many places it had been destroyed. To
get a faint idea of the unpaved portion, conceive the dried-up bed
of a rocky stream, filled with stones from the size of a barrel down,
placed upon a hillside with a slope as steep as a roof. The paved
parts were even worse on account of the slippery foothold that they
90 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
afforded our animals. On the opposite page is an alleged view of a
portion of this road, but I will venture to say that the artist was
never in Colombia, or never saw even a photograph of this road.
va
PORTION OF PAVED ROAD TO BOGOTA.
I have introduced it simply to show what is the generally accepted
idea of South American roads. The cut on page 241 of Mr. Wil-
liam EB. Curtis’s work, on “The Capitals of Spanish America,” is
much more like the true state of the case. ‘he road went up the
————
ROAD TO BOGOTA,
(By permission of Bureau of American Republies,)
92 A SH GVIOMG! Digide IO) Dye i - Ii Osc Tks,
almost perpendicular crests of the foothills, zigzagging back and
forth at every ten yards, the pavement being built in steps up which
the poor mules toiled. After about three hours’ clmbing, we
stopped for rest at Las Cruces, a mud and thatch inn on the right
of the road. We found the air here decidedly cooler. Here I got
some good oranges, and some green cocoanuts which were not nearly
so good as those that we had found at Barranquilla. The country
through which we had passed to this point was parched and in some
places almost barren, being covered with a coarse grass and cactus ;
but farther on we struck the forest, and found little cool streams
crossing the road, and everything was fresher. I saw in the valley
many beautiful butterflies (some morphos especially being of large
size and brilliant color), a few humming-birds, and several flocks of
the blue-rumped parrakeets. fter about three quarters of an hour’s
rest, we started again, and found the road growing steadily steeper
and worse, and shortly after four o’clock we stopped at a second
inn, Consuelo (consolation), where we concluded to spend the
night. We were still half an hour from the summit, with the worst
of the road ahead of us; but although we had traveled only five
hours, we all felt somewhat used up, partly on account of the heat
and partly because of the roughness of the road. The view from
this place was magnificent. We were up between five and six
thousand feet, and could see across the valley of the Magdalena
to the distant range of the Cauca. We found the air and water
much cooler, and needed blankets at night. Alice and I were given
a little room in which were two wooden frames with cowhides
stretched over them for beds. These we found to be swarming
with fleas, bedbugs, and a kind of flying roach an inch and a half
long,
of our party were given cots in the main room.
The landlord, Don Clemente Mejija, kept a blank book, by way
so we spent a wakeful night, tormented by bites. The rest
of hotel register, in which his various guests had indulged in their
fondness for poetry by writing, above their names, verses in praise
of the host and of his hospitality, or by giving vent to the emotions
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 93
ispired by the sublimity and beauty of the view of the distant
mountain ranges.
In the yard in rear of the house was chained a long-tailed mon-
key, black with a white face, and there was also a cage of dull col-
ored thrushes, marked somewhat like a newly fledged robin, but not
quite so large. Don Clemente had a tame troupial which was
allowed perfect liberty, but which came from the forest when
called.
On the road we passed many peons bent under heavy loads of
ON THE ROAD TO GUADUAS.
over one hundred pounds, the weight being supported partly on
their shoulders and partly by a strap passed across their foreheads.
It was clear and hot.
Monday, July 4, 1892. We were up early this morning. As I
was feeling worse, we decided to go on only as far as the next town,
94 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
Guaduas, and stop there, but as Lindauer was going to push ahead,
he said good-by to us, and hurried on. We had a light breakfast,
and started off about eight. Alice was very nervous about the
road, and walked a good part of the way to the summit and down
the other side. We reached the crest about nine, going up some
places worse than a staircase, and just before reaching the top,
through a deep and
crooked gorge not
wide enough for
two animals to pass.
I saw here the use
of the brass slip-
per-shaped stirrups.
In turning sharp
angles, my feet
were often pressed
against the stones
at my sides, and
without these stir-
rups the barefooted
riders would have
their feet injured.
We rode along the
ridge for a few
yards, and then be-
! ean the descent.
At one place the crest was barely ten feet wide, and fell off abruptly
on each side for several hundred feet. From this point the view
“ A DEEP AND CROOKED GORGE.”
was grand. Through the clouds across to the west we caught
glimpses of the perpetual snow on the Peak of Tolima and the snow
fields of the Paramo del Ruis. To our left, to the southeast, lay
Guaduas in the valley below us. It looked very near, but we were
two and a half hours in reaching it. We went obliquely down the
side of the mountain, and found the road not so bad as on the other
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 95
side except at one place near the foot of the descent, where it ran
over a hard stone lying in strata, which sloped in the same direction
as the surface of the soil, so it was like riding along on a roof with
no foothold for our animals.
Alice, in her nervousness from loss of sleep and from thinking
about the road ahead of us, had not eaten anything before leaving
Consuelo, and was now feeling faint from hunger, so we stopped at
an inn at the foot of the mountain, and tried to get something to
eat. I asked in succession for egos, bread, coffee, plantains, rice,
etc., until I had exhausted my vocabulary, but received the same
ROADSIDE INN NEAR GUADUAS.
answer to all my requests, “No hay ” (there is none), so we had to
push on. .
From this point for about two miles the road ran over compara-
tively level ground, crossing’ two little streams on the way. The
land was cultivated in places, and there were on either side of the
road a number of little huts surrounded by small groves of orange-
96 A FEYVING ERIP. TO THE TROPICS.
SSS
PLAZA AND CATHEDRAL AT GUADUAS.
trees, coffee plants, and plantains. As we entered the town, the
road became a narrow paved street with a gutter of running water
in the centre, and just as the land began te rise to meet the second
range of mountains, we came out into the principal square, the Plaza
de la Constitucién. This was a large paved square with a fountain
in the centre. On the eastern side was the cathedral, and on the
three remaining sides were various stores and public buildings, the
greater part of them of two stories in height. About the centre of
the row of houses on the northern side was the only hotel in the
place. It was of two stories, facing the plaza, the lower front rooms
being used as a store, and the one large room above as the recep-
tion or sittmg-room. Back of this was a square courtyard, and
farther back a second. The rear of the house overhung a swift
running brook. The entrance was through a narrow passageway
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 97
which was paved with small brown and black cobblestones arranged
in a very graceful arabesque pattern. This opened into the first
court, whence a staircase led up to the second floor. All of the
back rooms on the lower floor were used as storerooms and. stables,
and above were the bedrooms. The dining-room was in the portion
separating the two courts. It was with a sensation of great relief
that we rode in through the passageway and dismounted. Upon
OUR HOTEL AT GUADUAS, FROM THE PLAZA.
asking for the proprietor, we found that he and his wife had gone
off to take a bath in some stream near the town, and they did not
return until towards sundown. There was an entire lack of system
and order in the house, and things seemed just to run themselves,
but after a while we managed to get some rooms, and in about an
hour and a half we had some eggs and coffee. Our rooms were
perfectly plain, and with no other furniture than canvas cots. After
trying to rest awhile, Cabell and I went out for a short walk to look
around. We saw a good many birds, flycatchers, swallows, turkey-
98 AEE NENG) eye) CO! SIRE Seno Oth Ons):
buzzards, black vultures, anis, and flocks of the little blue-rumped
parrakeets. Some of the swallows that we saw were somewhat like
our purple martin, a little smaller and not so brightly colored, and
they had their nests under the curved tiles of the roofs.
The town is larger than Honda and is spread out over compar-
atively level ground. The houses are of the usual type, though
many are roofed with tiles instead of thatch. Everything seemed
dull and sleepy except the cathedral. During our stay some trav-
eling —_—s missionaries
were visiting the
place, and the church
bells were jangling
from morning till
night, and crowds
were going in and
out all day long.
The valley is fertile.
and the climate de-
hightful, the temper-
ature far cooler than
at Honda, and blank-
ets are needed at
night. Guaduas is
said to be about
3,400 feet above the
sea.
T was struck with
the great numbers of
women of the poorer
class sufferme from
goitre. Hardly one in five of the middle-aged women was free from
it, and many of the men were also sufferers. Some have attributed
this disease to the drinking of water from melted snow of the snow-
clad peaks, but hardly within a week’s journey of Guaduas could
GOITRE.
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 99
such water be found. Others have attributed it to living at high
altitudes, but there are many people living in higher regions than
Guaduas who are not affected. In Guaduas I found that the women
were more affected than the men, especially the women of the
laboring class. The carrying of heavy burdens partly supported
by a band passing across the forehead necessitates a tension in the
muscles of the neck and throat which may have some influence in
producing the enlargement. So accustomed to it are the people
here that (I was told) they even regard the goitre as a mark of per-
fection, and those who do not have it are considered as departing
from the normal.
T also saw many children with some of the nails missing from
their toes, and was told that this was caused by neglecting to pick
out the “chigoes,’ or “nigoes,”’ as they are sometimes called.
These little vermin burrow under the nail and deposit their eggs -
im a sac. This can be easily picked out with a needle, but if
neglected until the eggs hatch they produce ugly sores, sometimes
attended by loss of the nail.
When the proprietor finally returned, to our surprise we found
that he was a Virginian, a Mr. David Bain, who had been out in
Colombia for over twenty years, and who boasted of being even
more indolent than the natives. Upon learning that we also were
Virginians, he did all in his power to make us more comfortable,
and gave Alice and myself the room over the entrance, which had
the advantage of having a window facing on the plaza. The hotel
was once a private dwelling, and must have belonged to a person of
relatively considerable wealth. The floors were paved with a large
coarse tile, as thick as our brick, but about ten inches square.
These were warped, and had wide cracks between them which were
strongholds for innumerable fleas. In going over the house, I no-
ticed at one place, where the plaster had fallen off, that the laths,
which were of split reeds, were fastened to the joists by being’ tied
with a slender vine, and not nailed as ours are.
At night, as I was feeling no better, I found the doctor of the
100 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
place, who gave me a prescription of ipecac, chalk, and opium.
The night was cool, and we would have rested well except for the
multitude of fleas that fairly devoured us. We spent a wakeful
night and were fearfully bitten.
Tuesday, July 5, 1892. I was worse this morning, having
slight symptoms of dysentery, so sent again for the doctor, who
gave me some calomel, after which I kept on the bed all day and
spent the time reading a Spanish edition of the “Scientific Ameri-
ean.” In the afternoon Cabell went out with his gun, and later
returned with some birds, among which were six large humming-
birds, all of the same species, but different from any that we had
met so far. They were
large, the males brillant
green above, the throat
and breast black with an
edging of deep blue, the
tail a rich purple bronze,
a white downy puff on
the belly, and a white
speck back of the eye.
The female was similar,
but below was white with
LAMPORNIS VIOLICAUDA. a black band down the
sige centre of the throat and
breast (Lampornis nigricollis). These he had found feeding on
the scarlet blossoms of a large tree near the town. He also brought
m a green-naped pigeon, like the one that I had killed on the river,
and a woodpecker about the size of our yellow-bellied, but colored
somewhat like the red-bellied. Its head, throat, and below were
ash-buff, the centre of the belly and back of the head washed with
red, back closely barred with black and white, wings and two cen-
tral tail-feathers black and white, remaining tail-feathers black with
white tips, and rump white (Centurus terricolor).
It was clear and warm.
J.G Keulemans del.
Mmtern Bros. Chromo hth.London.
EUPSYCHORTYX LEUCOTIS , Gould.
White-eared Partri dge.
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 101
Wednesday, July 6, 1892. I felt a little better, but was still
unable to eat anything, and stayed in bed all day.
Thursday, July 7, 1892. I felt worse in the morning and sent
again for the doctor, but was told that he had gone away the day be-
fore and would be back m “about a week.” I was feeling pretty
blue over this news when my brother came in to say that an English
gentieman stopping in the hotel, a Mr. George Child from Bogots,
on his way to Honda, learning of my sickness and of the fact that
there was now no doctor in the town, had kindly offered me a rem-
edy which he had with him, “chlorodyne.” Within ten minutes
after taking the first dose I began to feel better, and from this point
I recovered rapidly. Cabell made some beef tea for me later in the
day, which was very strengthening. In the afternoon he went out
with his gun for a little while and returned with quite a collection
of birds. Among them were a pair of cardinals, an ani like the
one killed in Barranquilla, and a hawk rather smaller than our
Cooper’s hawk, beak horn-blue and black, eyes, feet, cere, and skin of
face yellow, above plumbeous, the tail black barred, the rump white
with black bars, the primaries chestnut, black barred, under coverts
finely marked with chestnut arrows, below plumbeous turning: to
rusty, breast and belly closely barred, the bars growing smaller
towards the vent, and thighs closely barred with rusty (Rupornis
magnirostris). The natives called this a “ garrapatero,” or tick-
eater, but they apply the same name to the milvago and to the anis.
He also brought back a tanager of the usual size, and with a beak
much like that of our summer redbird, uniform blue-black with
white shoulders and under wing-coverts (Tachyphonus melaleucus),
a little ground dove, a blue-rumped parrakeet, and a paw of par-
tridges, both males, about the size and shape of our “ bob-white.”
Their back, wings, and tail were very like those of our bird, top of
head buffy and black, with a recurved crest of clay-colored feathers,
chin, forehead, and ear-coverts whitish, throat, stripe above eye, and
malar stripe rufous, breast mottled black, white, and rufous, the
rufous prevailing on the lower breast (Hupysychortyx leucotis).
102 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
Towards evening I was feeling very much better, so I went im to
the supper-table, though I confined myself to beef tea. I enjoyed
conversation with Mr. Child, as he was well informed about the
country. Whilst we were at the table, Mr. Milhean, that energetic
collector of orchids, came into the hotel. He was just on his way
to Honda with a consignment of plants, which he. was going to ship
to England, and then return at once to his collecting-ground.
About eleven o'clock that night I heard quite an uproar, and upon
inquiry found that he had unfortunately uttered some criticism
about the hotel, which reached the ears of the landlady, and she
was so incensed that she immediately turned him and _ his servant
out into the street, driving out his mules, and throwing their sad-
dles out of the door after them.
Tt was clear and hot during the day, but delightfully cool at
night. The fleas, however, entirely prevented our sleeping.
Friday, July 8, 1892.) -I felt much better, but still stayed in or
near the hotel the greater part of the day, and contined myself to a
beef-tea diet. At breakfast I thought that I would try a soft-boiled
ege; but when I cracked it into my plate, it was not done, so I
thought then that I would have it scrambled ; and, to hurry it up,
I took it out to the kitchen myself. When I had explained what I
wanted to the cook, —a dirty old Indian,— she took my plate and
scooped up the half-done egg in her hand, and transferred it thus
to her pan; so I changed my mind about wanting egg after all.
Speaking of this reminds me that in Guaduas, and in other places
in Colombia, they call scrambled eggs “ pericos,” which means,
literally, little parrots; but why they are thus called I could not
find out. The kitchen of our hotel was peculiar. It was a large
room, without fireplace, stove, or chimney. Along two sides ran a
built-up ledge of stone, much like the hearth m a country blaek-
smith’s shop. On this all the cooking was done, a dozen little fires
being built at mtervals. All of the earthenware utensils made
in the country have round bottoms and no legs, so they cannot
be made of themselves to stand upright, but three round cobble-
THE MULE ROAD AND GUADUAS. 105
stones must be placed around the fire, and the vessel placed on
them.
I thought it best to have my drinking-water boiled whilst I was
sick, so purchased an earthenware jar for the purpose ; but I had
great trouble in the matter. At one time, as soon as the water
boiled it was taken by the servants to wash dishes; at another time,
when I asked about it, the cook, to see how hot the water was, put
her hand into it. |
I was also occupied for a portion of the day in trying to destroy
MARKET IN PLAZA AT GUADUAS.
some of the fleas in our room. I purchased a pound of crystallized
carbolie acid, with which I made a strong solution, and scrub.
the floor with a broom, being careful to let the liquid run into the
cracks ; but at night we were bitten as severely as before. Every
104 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
morning our white blankets were found full of them. They creep
into the wool as they would were it growing on an animal’s baek.
The few dogs that I saw around Guaduas were abject-looking
creatures, and appeared as if life were a burden to them. The
most of them were hairless. They are not only devoured by fleas,
A PACK-OX AT GUADUAS.
but there are other vermin which burrow under the skin, like the
“wolf” in our rabbit. Cattle suffer in the same way, and we saw
some mules and horses with one ear gone, due to the attack of some
insect.
This was market-day, and the plaza was crowded. I walked
around to see what was going on, and to take some views with my
camera. There was the usual assortment of fruits and vegetables
for sale in the market, and nothmg remarkable except that at one
place I saw unborn pigs exposed for sale. This, I thought, was
THE ROAD MULE AND GUADUAS. 105
rather getting ahead of us in our dish, sucking pig. Salt, of which
the government has the monopoly, was weighed out in little scales
as carefully as a druggist weighs his medicines. The duty on salt
is about three and a half cents per pound, and in Guaduas it was
sold at ten cents per pound. Beef is very good here, and cattle
are butchered every morning. The hides, which are exported in
large quantities, are prepared by simply stretching them out with
pegs over the ground, hair side down, but clear by about ten inches.
When dry, they are folded up into squares about the size of a cofftee-
sack, and then tied up into bales.
A good deal of the produce from the neighborhood was brought
in on the backs of bullocks. They are said to be even more
sure-footed than the mules, though slower. Such things as fruit,
vegetables, earthenware vessels, etc., are put into purse-like bags
of a coarse netting, and then loaded on the pack-animal. (See
page 88.)
In the afternoon Cabell went out with his gun, and later Alice
and I went out a short ways to meet him
on his return. He had been to some flow- lw IN lips VAN
ering trees near a coffee plantation along \ | ff }
the road, and brought back eleven hum- | | il
ming-birds of eight different species. They | | |
|
were, first, a paw of the large black-
throats (Lampornis mgricollis). Sec- LoVe (aly \| | A
ond, a pair, male and female, but slightly | MA (Al \\K Pes
ee ON es
smaller; the male green above and below, gE ( FLYING: PREP LO LAE EROPIOS:
some of the brilliant yellow and black ones like the one that I saw
in Curacao; but the most beautiful of all was what the men on the
wharf called “loro,” or parrot. As well as I could see, it was of
the same shape as the black and yellow ones, its head and neck a
vivid blue, its body light green, its tail a golden yellow, and its fins
tipped with pink (family Scaridw). We had some flying-fish for
RED SNAPPER.
breakfast on the steamer. They taste a little like smelts, but are
dry. Whilst we were watching the fish a frigate pelican hovered
over our heads for some time, coming at times within thirty yards
of us so that we had a good view of it. The small boys on the
wharf were catching great numbers of the little fish that were so
abundant at Curagao (7rachurops). We left La Guayra about
eleven o'clock, and headed north. The vessel ran steadily, and I
fortunately escaped seasickness. Before sunset we passed Los
Roques.
The rest of our trip was uneventful. The sea remained as quiet
as a mill-pond, and we made fine runs of nearly 340 miles per day.
Among the passengers we had the pleasure of meeting our consul
from Curagao, Captain L. B. Smith, a most agreeable gentleman,
whom I will always regret not having met during our stay on the
CURACAO AGAIN. 149
island. This gentleman told me that but a few days before he had
seen a barn-owl that was caught near the town (probably Strix
flammea bargei, Hartert). He also told me that on the island of
Bonaire there were many flamingoes. It is to his enterprise that
the town owes the drawbridge across the harbor, its ice-machine,
and other improvements. Since my visit he has sunk five artesian
wells upon his place, Planter’s Rust, the combined production of
which is 87,000 gallons of water of excellent quality per day.
This will prove a godsend to the island, as only those who have
been there can form an idea of the great importance of this water
supply.
We made the Mona Passage on Sunday afternoon. On Tuesday
a turnstone flew around us several times and finally went off in the
direction of the Bermudas. On the following day a small warbler
lit on the upper deck among the life-boats, but I could not find it.
On Thursday we saw several schools of blackfish and a whale.
At sundown we saw the Barnegat Light, and about eleven o’clock
we came to anchor off quarantine. At half past eight on Friday
morning, August 5, we landed in Brooklyn, and our trip was at an
end.
CHAPTER VIII.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP.
We had been gone from New York just fifty-four days. In that
time we had been sixteen days on the ocean, twelve days on the
Magdalena, and three days on the mule road ; that is, we were trav-
eling thirty-one days. Hxclusive of the shooting that we did
during the stops of the river steamer, Cabell and I had been out
together with our guns ten times, and he had been out three times
alone. We brought back 210 skins. I give below lists of the
birds that I observed in Colombia and in Curacao. Mr. Robert
Ridgway of the Smithsonian Institution has been kind enough to
identify the skins for me and also to assist me greatly in the prepa-
ration of the accompanying lists. The names of those birds identi-
fied beyond a doubt are printed in small capitals, whilst those which
are at all doubtful are printed in italics. References after notes
refer to colored plates of the bird.
BIRDS OBSERVED IN COLOMBIA, SOUTH AMERICA.
1. PHairuHusa MAceyirostRis (Licut.). Large-billed Tern.
Abundant on the Magdalena from Barranquilla to above
Puerto Berrio. We often saw as many asa hundred standing
together on some of the low sand bars, and sometimes a dozen
or more would float by us on a piece of driftwood.
2. ANHINGA aNHINGA (Liny.). Snake Bird.
IT saw a dozen or more of these along the Magdalena, but
never more than two together. They were usually flying, but a
Go
PES LL OK REE) RR PP: 151
few were seen perched on dead snags. Aud. b. of WV. A. vol. 6,
pl. 420.
. Phalacrocorax vigua (Vieill.) 2? Brazilian Cormorant.
A good many small cormorants were seen flying over the
marshes at Barranquilla, but as I did not get a specimen, I
am doubtful about the identification. U. 5. Astron. Exped. to
Chili and Peru.
PrLECANUS Fuscus (Liryy.). Brown Pelican.
These were the first birds that we saw as we approached our
anchorage off the Colombian coast. We saw large flocks of
them around the seashore, but none in the interior. ‘The Spanish
name is “aleatraz.” Aud. b. of NV. A. vol. 7, ppl. 423, 424.
Catrina MoscHaTa (Linn.). Muscovy Duck.
These ducks were seen continually from Barranquilla to within
a short distance of Yeguas, sometimes in enormous flocks. They
often lt im trees when first disturbed by the steamer. The
native name is “ pato real,” royal duck. I also saw ducks of
other species, but could not identify them ; among them two species
of Dendrocygna.
AJAJA AJAJA (Liny.). Roseate Spoonbill.
We saw a few small flocks of these lovely birds at different
places along the river. The largest contamed six individuals.
Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 6, pl. 362.
Purmosus mnruscatus (Licut.). Dusky Ibis.
Mr. Ridgway identifies my description of the two shot at
Barranquilla as belonging to this species. I failed to save thei
skins. We saw a number at Barranquilla, but few higher up the
river. I sawsome carrying sticks for nests on June 22.
TANTALUS LOCULATOR (Linn.). Wood Ibis.
These were seen in great numbers along the river, especially
along the central portion. When suddenly disturbed they flew
off irregularly in different directions, but when traveling they
kept together im strings. They usually flew with heavy wing-
beats, but I saw many soaring at a great height with motionless
wings. Aud. b. of NV. A. vol. 6, pl. 361.
152 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
9. MycreriA AMERICANA (Liyy.). Jabiru.
I saw only two of these large birds, and they were on the
lower river. I thought that they were a species of ibis, as they
flew in just the same way, with their necks extended instead of
doubled back like the herons. Their plumage is snowy white ;
the beak, head, and legs black. The native name is “ cabeza
negra,” black head.
10. ArpEa cocor (Liny.). Cocoi Heron.
Seen abundantly at every point along the Magdalena. This
bird is very much like our great blue heron, but has more white |
below, and the entire crown is black. The Spanish name for
heron is “ garza.” 7
11. ArpEa zcreTra (GMEL.). White Egret.
I saw a great many of these birds along the river, though they
were by no means as abundant as the preceding species. We
sometimes saw them in small flocks, but rarely saw more than
two of the cocoi herons flying together. Aud. b. of WV. A. vol.
6, pl. 370.
12. ArpEA CANDIDISsSIMA (GMEL.). Snowy Heron.
These beautiful little birds were by far the commonest of the
herons. We saw them continually, and at some places the muddy
edges of the river were lined with.them. Towards nightfall
they flew overhead, going to their roosting-places in large flocks.
Aud. B. of N. A. vol. 6, pl. 374.
13. Burormrs cyanurus (Vieruu.). Blue-tailed Heron.
I saw a good many of these in the marshes near Barranquilla,
and I shot one; but unfortunately it was stolen by a cat before
I had skinned it. They are smaller than our green heron, but
similar.
14. Ionornis mMartinica (Liny.). Purple Gallinule.
I saw a few in the marshes at Barranquilla, and wounded one,
but failed to get it. Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 5, pl. 308.
15. Himanropus mexicanus (Mttt.). Black-necked Stilt.
From the train I saw several pairs of these birds wading in
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 153
some pools a few miles below Barranquilla. I saw them both in
June and in the latter part of July. Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 6,
pl. 354.
16. Jagana nicRA (Gmet.). Black Jacana.
These birds were abundant in the marshes around Barran-
quilla, especially where there were lily pads floating on the sur-
face of the water. They were very noisy, and often held their
wings up vertically, as some snipe do, as if stretching. I saw
some with their under parts lighter colored, probably young.
17. Evpsycuortyx LEUCOTIS (GouLD). White-eared Partridge.
The two killed by my brother at Guaduas were identified by
Mr. Ridgway as belonging to this species. We saw numbers of
partridges at Guaduas, at Honda, and at Barranquilla, but did
not succeed in getting others, so cannot tell if they were all of
the same species or not. We found it impossible to flush them a
second time; and it so happened that whenever we got shots,
our guns were loaded with dust shot, so we failed to stop the
birds. At Barranquilla I heard partridges uttering the familiar
call “ bob-white.” Gould, Mon. of Odontophorine.
18. Stegnolema montagniit (Bonap.)? “ Guacharaca.”’
I saw one of these domesticated at Honda, and lower on the
river I saw a small flock in the edge of the forest. The identifi-
cation is from my meagre description, and therefore is very
doubtful.
19. CHAUNA DERBIANA (GRAY). Colombian Screamer.
We saw a few of these birds on the lower Magdalena. They
were elther perched in the tops of dead trees, or walking about
on the ground like turkeys. I saw a pair domesticated. They
kept with the poultry, and walked about in a very slow and dig-
nified manner. PI. 11, P. Z. 8S. 1864.
20. CotumBa RuFINA (TEMM.). Green-naped Pigeon.
I shot a fine specimen on the Magdalena, and my brother
kalled a second one at Guaduas. These were the only ones that
J saw.
154 A) BEING EREP LO EE “ERORICS:
21. Zenama RUFICAUDA (BonaP.). Rufous-tailed Dove.
We killed a couple of these doves at Honda, both of which
were males; and we saw them frequently during our stay at that
place.
22, COLUMBIGALLINA PASSERINA (Liny.). Ground Dove.
We found this little dove common at Barranquilla, Honda,
and Guaduas. When running along on the roads, they carry
their tails held up very prettily. Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 5, pl.
283.
23. COLUMBIGALLINA RUFIPENNIS (Bonap.). Rufous Ground
Dove. |
We saw a few of these at Barranquilla and at Honda. They
are not so abundant as the preceding species.
24. Gypaacus papa (Liyy.). King Vulture.
We saw three individuals on the Magdalena a short distance
above Barranquilla. They were all perched in dead trees, which
grew in overflowed marshes. Descourtilz, Orn. Brésilienne.
25. CaTHARTES AURA (Liyy.). Turkey-buzzard.
Common at Barranquilla, Honda, and Guaduas, but not so
abundant as the following species. Aud. B. of WV. A. vol. 1,
ple 2s %
26. CATHARISTA ATRATA (Barrr.). Black Vulture.
Very abundant at every point that we visited in Colombia.
They collect im immense numbers around slaughter-houses, and
on sand bars in the river when they observe a fisherman cleaning
his catch. Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 1, pl. 3.
27. RostRHAMUS SOCIABILIS (VIEILL.). Hverglade Kite.
These were very abundant at Barranquilla, and flew about
over the marshes just as do our marsh-hawks. Baird, Cassin &
Lawrence, B. of VV. A. pl. 65.
28. RUPORNIS MAGNIROSTRIS (GMEL.).
My brother killed one at Guaduas, which was the only one
that I saw. The natives called it a “ garrapatero,” or tick-eater ;
but they apply this name to the milvago and also to the ant.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 155
29. Heterospizias meridionalis (Lath.)? Rufous Buzzard.
Mr. Ridgway identifies thus the large rufous-winged hawks
that I saw over the grassy meadows at Yeguas. Having nothing
but my description to go by, I have indicated the identification
as doubtful.
30. Kalco sparverius (Linn.)? Sparrow-hawk.
The remarks for the preceding species apply to this. Those
that Isaw from the train above Yeguas were near enough to
distinguish the crescent marks on the head, and to all appear-
anees were the same as our species. Aud. B. of N. A. vol. 1,
pl. 22.
ol. Polyborus cheriway (Jacq.)? Audubon’s Caracara.
This large carrion hawk I saw at a number of places along the
river, and on our down trip my brother shot a young one in poor
plumage; but it stunk so from its last meal that I did not skin
it, Aud. b. of N. A. vol. 1, pl. 4.
o2. Mitvaco cHIMACHIMA (VIEILL.). “ Chimachima.”
This carrion hawk was common around Barranquilla and at
other points higher up the river. They were noisy, and, whilst
uttering their cries, held their heads back until it seemed that
they would topple over backwards.
oo. PANDION HALIZTUS CAROLINENSIS (GMEL.). Fish-hawk.
I saw a few fish-hawks along the upper Magdalena. Aud. B.
of IV. A. vol. 1, pl. 15.
34. Buso MExicanus (GmMegt.). Striped Horned Owl.
My brother shot one that was roosting in some thick coffee
plants at Guaduas.
30. ARA ARARAUNA (Liny.). Blue and Yellow Macaw.
This was by far the commonest macaw seen, and was abundant
as far up the Magdalena as Yeguas, where the heavy forest
ended. Their discordant cries woke us in the mornings, and we
saw many of them flying to roost just before sunset. I saw a
partly fledged one at Mompos on June 25. Descourtilz, Orn.
Brésil.
156 MN SOG OM ER Iie INO SoH Se OUI CRS,
36. ARA macao (Liny.). Red and Yellow Macaw.
I saw in the market at Barranquilla an Indian with one of
these macaws, and was told that it had been caught a short dis-
tance up the river.
ol. Ara chloroptera (Gray)? Blue and Red Macaw.
I saw frequently along the river a large macaw, blue, green,
and scarlet, but without yellow on the wings. It may possibly be
of this species. The general name for macaw 1s “ Guacamayo.”
oo. ARA SEVERA (Linyn.). Severe Macaw.
I saw but the two specimens which I shot on June 28.
Descourtilz, Orn. Brésil. ,
39. Conurus aRUGINOSUS (Linn.). Gray-faced Parrakeet.
This parrakeet was extremely abundant around Barranquilla ;
but I did not see it higher up the river. Flocks flew over the
town in a steady stream about daybreak, and just before sunset.
40, BrotoGERYs JUGULARIS (DEVILLE). Orange-chinned Parrakeet.
I saw large flocks of this parrakeet all along the Magdalena
as high up as Honda.
41. Psirracuna conspiciyLatTa (Larr.). Blue-rumped Parrakeet.
This little parrakeet I saw along the upper portion of the
Magdalena, in some cases associated with flocks of the preceding
species. They were common at Guaduas. They fly just like
English sparrows. PI. in this work.
42. Pionus MENstRuUS (Liny.). Blue-headed Parrot.
I saw this parrot only once, when Mr. Lindauer shot one out
of a small flock. This was not far below Yeguas.
43. Amazona panamensis (Cab.)? Common Green Parrot.
I saw everywhere at Barranquilla, Honda, and Guaduas in the
huts of the natives a green parrot with yellow forehead and
scarlet wing edgings. It was probably of this species, though,
as I obtained no specimen, I have marked it doubtful.
44, Crotophaga sulcirostris (Swains.)? Grooved-bill Ani.
I saw these birds in abundance at Barranquilla, Honda, and
Guaduas ; but though I shot several, they were all in poor plu-
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 157
mage, so I brought back no specimens, and am now doubtful
whether they were of this species or C. ani. I saw them feeding
on the swarms of grasshoppers at Honda, and I had two of their
egos given to me on June 28.
45. RaMPHastos cITREOLaMUS (GouLD). Citron-breasted Toucan.
The first one that I saw was killed by Mr. Lindauer on June
30. Along the river near this place I saw several others. The
peacock-blue color of their eyes is peculiar. I saw at La Guayra
a species of cagique with similarly colored eyes. Gould, Jon.
of Ramphastide.
46. RampHastros amprcuus (Swarns.). Green-faced Toucan.
I saw a large flock of these toucans at Puerto Berrio, but our
steamer stopped there such a short time that I killed only one.
Gould, Ion. of Ramphastide.
47. Prrrociossus Torquatus (Get). Collared Aragari.
I shot two of these and saw five or six others on the Magda-
lena a short distance below Yeguas. Gould, Mon. of Ramphas-
tide.
48. Bucco ruriconuis (Wacet.). Rufous-throated Puff Bird.
I saw a good many of these near Barranquilla, and a few
higher up the river. They sit quietly on a dead twig, and look
much like small kingfishers. Sclater, Mon. of Jacamars and
Puff Birds, pl. 29.
49. Bucco susrectus (Sct.). Narrow-banded Puff Bird.
I saw but the one specimen that my brother shot on June 28
on the lower Magdalena. Sclater’s Monograph, pl. 27.
50. GaLBULA RUFICAUDA (Cuv.). Rufous-tailed Jacamar.
I saw about a half dozen of these birds on the Magdalena.
They sit about quietly like kingfishers. My brother saw at
Consuelo a jacamar which he described as larger and brilliantly
colored, but we did not get a specimen. This was probably
Jacamarops grandis. Sclater’s Monograph, pl. 4.
ol. CeryLe rorquara (Linn.). Great Rufous-bellied Kingfisher.
02. CERYLE AMAZONA (LavH.). Amazonian Green Kingfisher.
158 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
53. CERYLE AMERICANA (GMeEL.).. Brazilian Green Kingfisher.
These three kingfishers we found abundant from the mouth of
the Magdalena until we left the river at Honda. The last was
not so common as the first two; but we found it at Guaduas,
where we did not see the others. Sharpe, J/on. of the Alcedi-
nide, vol. 1.
54, Centurus TerRicotor (V. Beru.). Berlepsch’s Woodpecker.
My brother shot a specimen at Guaduas, where I also saw sevy-
eral. I saw one enter a hole in a dead tree, so it was probably
nesting. At Barranquilla and at Honda I saw various wood-
peckers, but did not obtain specimens.
55. STENOPSIS RUFICERVIX (Scu.). Rufous-necked Goat-sucker.
We found a small flock of these among some stunted bushes
near Barranquilla, and obtained two females. Pl. 14, P. Z.5.
1866.
56. NycrmpRromus ALBICOLLIS (GMEL.). “ Parauque.”
I saw but the one which I shot on the Magdalena on June 28.
At night, along the river, we often heard the cries of various
night-birds, some of them very like our “ whip-poor-will.”
57. Nycrrprus GRANDIS (GMEL.). Grand Potoo.
I saw but the one which my brother shot below Yeguas on—
July 16.
58. GLAuCIS HIRSUTA (GMEL.).
I saw a good many of these humming-birds along the river.
They were in the heavy forests, and fed on the blossoms of a
species of canna which grew in the glades near the water. A
female that I shot on June 28 had white feathers scattered about
among the green of the back. On the same day I found one of
their nests, but it did not contain eggs. It was woven to the
swinging tip of a plantain leaf. Humming-birds. Gould’s Jono-
graph.
59. PH@®THORNIS SUPERCILIOSUS (LINN.).
I saw two or three in Guaduas, and shot one which was in
poor plumage.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 159
60. LAMPORNIS NIGRICOLLIS (VIEILL.). Black-throated Humming-
bird.
We found this bird common in Guaduas.
61. Hypuropriia Burroni (Less.). Butfon’s Humming-bird.
We obtained four or five specimens at Guaduas.
62. AcesTRURA MULSANTI (Bourc.). Mulsant’s Humming-bird.
63. AcesrruRA HELIODORI (Bourc.). Heliodore’s Humming-bird.
These two species were about equally common at Guaduas.
From their small size they were very difficult to find when they
fell in the underbrush.
64. CurysoLampis Moscuitus (Liny.). Ruby and Topaz Hum-
ming-bird.
We found this species abundant at Guaduas. The full-plumaged
male was the most beautiful humming-bird that we met.
65. AmaziL1a FuscricauDATA (FRasER). Rieffer’s Humming-bird.
I met with this species at two points on the Magdalena and at
Guaduas, getting four specimens.
66. Amazinia cyanirrons (Bourc.). Blue-fronted Hummineg-
bird.
My brother shot one at Guaduas.
67. Damopsita JuLia (Bourc.). Julia’s Humming-bird.
| We obtained a number of specimens at Guaduas.
68. PoLYERATA AMABILIS (GOULD).
I saw but the one specimen which I shot at Puerto Berrto on
the river. It had a nest placed on top of a branch in the same
way that our ruby-throat builds.
69. CyanopHarta Gouportr (Bourc.). Goudot’s Humming-bird.
I obtained four specimens at one place on the lower river.
70. CHLOROSTILBON ANGUSTIPENNIS (FRaAsER). Narrow-winged
Hummineg-bird.
I obtained a specimen at Barranquilla, and found it abundant
at Guaduas.
Humming-birds were very abundant at Guaduas, but rarely
until the bird was shot could I tell what was the species. They
160 A FLYING TRIP. TO THE TROPICS.
could be seen buzzing about in the treetops, but at too great a
distance to recognize them, unless they were of peculiar shape
or size. My brother saw one at Guaduas which he described as
having a scarlet back.
71. Mitvuius ryrannus (Liyy.). Fork-tailed Flycatcher.
I saw a few at Guaduas and a good many at Honda. Their
flight was extremely graceful. Aud. B. of N. A. vol. 1,
ple o2. :
72. TYRANNUS MELANCHOLICUS (VreEILu.). Melancholy Flycatcher.
73. Myiozereres CAYENNENSIS (Liyy.). Cayenne Flycatcher.
These flycatchers were common all along from Barranquilla to
Honda, and around Guaduas.
74. Megarhynchus pitangua (Linn.)? Pitangua Flycatcher.
The large-billed, rufous, and yellow flycatcher which we got at
Barranquilla was probably of this species; but as I did not bring
back a specimen, I have marked it doubtful.
75. Fuuvicota pica (Bopp.). Pied Flycatcher.
This conspicuous little bird was abundant in the marshes around
Barranquilla, and I saw others at pqints higher up the river.
76. XANTHOSOMUS ICTEROCEPHALUS (Liny.). Yellow- headed
Blackbird.
T saw large flocks of this bird around Barranquilla.
77. Icrerus 1crerus (Linn.). Troupial.
I saw troupials in confinement at many places along the Mag-
dalena and at Guaduas, but none in a state of freedom. Aud.
B. of N. A. vol. 7, pl. 499.
78. IorerUS xANTHORNUS (GmeEt.). Yellow Oriole.
Common at Barranquilla. |
79. Cassicus FLAVICRISsuUS (Scx.). Yellow-vented Cagique.
80. Ostinops pEcuMANUs (Patt.). “ Oro péndola.”
81. Gymynostinops cuatimozinus (Bonap.). “ Oro péndola.”
We got one specimen of each of the foregoing species on the
Magdalena on June 28. Higher up the river we saw many strug-
gling flocks of the two last. Pauna Biologia Centr. Amer.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 161
82. QuiscaLus assmmris (Sct.). Colombian Grackle.
This large grackle was abundant around Barranquilla, and
often lit in the cocoa palms that grew in the hotel yard. They
may have had nests in these palms, but from seeing one with an
unfledged young bird in its beak, I am inclined to think that
they were robbing the nests of smaller birds.
83. SYCALIS COLUMBIANA (Cas.). Red-fronted Finch.
T saw a few of these near Barranquilla. In our hotel there
was one caged which sang very well.
84. VoLATINIA SPLENDENS (Bonap.). Blue-black Finch.
I saw but the one specimen which I shot near Barranquilla.
85. RamMPHOCELUS DimipraTus (Larr.). Cardinal Tanager.
This tanager was abundant all along the Magdalena and at
Guaduas. The native name is “cardinal.” Mag. de Zool.
1837, pl. 81.
86. RampHocetus tcrrRonorus (Bonap.). Yellow-rumped Tana-
ver.
I saw but the one which I shot at Puerto Berrio.
87. Tanacra cana (Swatns.). Blue Tanager.
This tanager is common and I found it from Barranquilla to
Honda and at Guaduas. I observed a nest with eggs nearly
hatched at Barranquilla in June. The native name is “ azulejo,”
bluebird.
88. TACHYPHONUS MELALEUCUS (SPARRM.). White-shouldered
Tanager.
T saw several at Guaduas, and my brother shot one.
89. EupHontra crAsstrostRIs (Scu.) Thick-billed Euphonia.
I saw but the one specimen which my brother shot on the
Magdalena on June 28.
90. Pipra aurtcapruna (Licut.). Gold-headed Manikin.
I saw but the one specimen shot on the Magdalena by Mr.
Lindauer on June 29.
91. Tachycineta albiventris (Bodd.)? White-winged Swallow.
The little swallow that I saw along the Magdalena may be of
162 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
this species. I thought, however, that the body of the bird was
white and the wings black, and therefore I leave it doubtful.
The birds which I observed but did not identify would, I think,
exceed the above list. Among them were two terns, two ducks, two
or three herons, several sand snipe and plover, pigeons, many hawks,
an owl, parrots, a toucan, several woodpeckers, humming-birds,
many flycatchers, several orioles, finches, warblers, swallows,
thrushes, and many wrens.
The following is a list of the humming-birds sent to me from
Bogota by Mr. Child : —
1. Glaucis hirsuta. 20. Acestrura heliodori.
2. Pheethornis emiliz. 21. Lesbia gouldi.
3. Pheethornis anthophilus. 22. Lesbia amaryllis.
4. Campylopterus lazulus. 23. Cyanthus forficatus.
5. Lafresnaya flavicaudata. 24. Rhamphomicron heteropogon.
6. Hypuroptila buffoni. 250. Rhamphomicron microrhynchum.
7. Florisuga mellivora. 26. Metallura tyrianthina.
8. Petasphora anais. 27. Chrysuronia znone.
9. Petasphora cyanotis. 28. Adelomyia melanogenys.
10. Panoplites fiavescens. 29. Agleeactis cupripennis.
11. Heliodoxa leadbeateri. 30. Erioenemis alinz.
12. Pterophanes temmincki. 31. Erioenemis cupriventris.
13. Docimastes ensiferus. 32. Eriocnemis vestita.
14. Helianthea typica. oo. Uranomitra francie.
15. Bourcieria torquata. o4. Amazilia fuscicaudata.
16. Floricola longirostris. 30. Amazilia eyanifrons.
17. Heliotrypha exortis. 36. Hylocharis sapphirina.
18. Thalurania columbica. 37. Chlorostilbon angustipennis.
19. Acestrura mulsanti. 38. Panychlora poortmani.
It will always be a source of regret to me that before starting
upon our trip | had not been able to obtain any information con-
cerning the island of Curacao other than that contained im the
Encyclopedia and in the folder of the Red “D” Line. It is true
that 1 did not make any great effort to this end, as at the time I
expected that we would simply stop on the island between ships and
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 163
have no opportunity to collect any birds. When we finally arrived
and did have a chance to get some birds, we did not work them up
as thoroughly as we should have done, because I could but think
that an island so small, and under such perfect civilization and
government for several hundred years, must be thoroughly explored
and known. However, at the same time of our visit, Mr. Ernst
Hartert of England was engaged upon the ornithology of the
three islands, Curagao, Aruba, and Bonaire, and he has subse-
quently published (“ Ibis” for July, 1893) an article giving the
results of his work. He announces several interesting discoveries,
and to his article I should refer all who may desire a complete
work upon the subject.
My observations make no definite additions to those of Mr.
Hartert, with this exception, that 1s, that I took a specimen of
the spotted sand snipe (Actitis macularia) which he mentions as
having observed, but not taken.
My field notes are as follows : —
BIRDS OBSERVED ON THE ISLAND OF CURAQAO.
Sterna sp. Large, dusky above, crown black.
Sterna sp. Medium size, apparently pure white.
Sterna sp. Very small.
PELECANUS Fuscus (Linn). Brown Pelican.
I saw several flocks flying over Santa Ana Harbor. Aud.
B. of NN. A. vol. 7, ppl. 423, 424.
dD. Freeata aquiia (Liyy.). Frigate Pelican.
I saw one individual flying over the harbor. The native name
is “ tijereta,’ scissors, or scissor-tail. Aud. B. of WV. A. vol. 7,
pl. 421. |
6. Ardea virescens (Linn.) ? Green Heron.
I saw flying across the harbor several small herons which I
f= fo NS
took to be of this species. I saw others again in the mangrove
swamp to the northwest of the town. Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 6,
pl. 367.
164 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
7. ACTITIS MACULARIA (Liny.). Spotted Sand Snipe.
I shot a specimen in the immature unspotted plumage on the
edge of a salt-pan north of the town. Along the southeast
edge of the Lagoon I saw in July several species of sand snipe,
but I did not have my gun with me and obtained no specimens.
Aud. B. of NV. A. vol. 5, pl. 342.
8. Eupsycuortyx cristatus (Liny.). Crested Partridge.
I obtained but one specimen of this partridge, though I saw a
good many. Three was the greatest number that I saw together.
In June I saw half-grown young ones in captivity. Gould, —
Mon. of Odontophorine.
9. CoLUMBA GYMNOPTHALMA (TEMM.). White-winged Pigeon.
I saw a young one in captivity in June, and in July I saw a
flock of perhaps a dozen individuals, from which I obtained one
specimen,
10. Zenaida sp.
I saw many doves of a medium size, but obtained no speci-
men. ‘They were probably Z. cinaceo-rufa (Ridew.).
11. CoLUMBIGALLINA PASSERINA (Liny.). Ground Dove.
I found this little dove very abundant. It was probably the
commonest bird on the island. Aud. B. of WV. A. vol. 5, pl. 285.
12. TrINNUNCULUS SPARVERIUS BREVIPENNIS (V. Bert.). Curacao
Sparrow-hawk.
I saw a good many of these hawks. There is the same differ-
ence in color between the sexes as in our species. I was told that
they fed on lizards.
13. A large hawk that I saw several times at a distance may have
been Buteo albicaudatus colonus (V. Berl.).
14. Conurus PertTINAX (Liyy.). Yellow-headed Parrakeet.
I saw many of these in captivity, some of them barely fledged,
and was told that they were caught on the island, but I saw no
others.
15. CuRysoLaMpPis Moscuitus (Liyy.). Ruby and Topaz Hum-
ing-bird.
RESULTS OF THE TRIP. 165
I saw none of these in June, but in July the tamarind-trees
were in bloom, and there were swarms around every tree.
Nearly, all, however, were in poor plumage, as they were just
moulting. Gould’s Monograph.
16. CHLoRosTILBON ATALA (Less.). Atala Humming-bird.
I saw many of these in June and more in July, when they also
were feeding on the tamarind blossoms. Gould’s Monograph.
17. IcrErus icrerus (Linn.). Troupial.
‘All of the troupials that I saw were caged birds, but I was
told that the bird is found and breeds on the island. The
natives apply the name “troupial”’ or “turupial” to both this
and the following species, so that I cannot tell how much
weight to give to my information. Aud. B. of N. A. vol. 7,
pl. 499.
18. IcrERUS XANTHORNUS CURASOENSIS (RiDEw.). Curacao Oriole.
I saw a small flock of five or six in June, and in July I saw
three more. PI. in this work.
19. Zonorricuta prLEatA (Bopp.). Pileated Sparrow.
This handsome sparrow I found quite common in a little valley
near the monastery. Descourtilz, Ornithologie Brésilienne.
20. KurrHera Bicotor (Liyy.). Grassquit.
We saw quantities of these wherever we went on the island.
On July 26 we found a nest with three eggs.
21. Ca@repa uRopyGraLis (V. Beru.). Curagao Honey-creeper.
I saw but few in June, but in July they were abundant, and
were seen in the tamarind-trees with the humming-birds. They
have a feeble lisping song more like that of an insect than that
of a bird.
22. DENDROICA RUFO-PILEATA (Ripew.). Curacao Warbler.
These were abundant. Their song is much like that of our
yellow warbler.
23. Mimus Gitvus Rosrratus (Ripew.). Curacao Mocking-bird.
These birds were abundant. I even saw some singing from
the housetops in the town. Both of my specimens were young,
166 A FLYING TRIP. 2O. THE TROPICS.
and had speckled breasts. The native name is “ ruisenor,” which
is the Spanish for nightingale.
The barn-owl mentioned by Captain Smith was doubtless Strix
flammea barge: (Hartert).
For the benefit of those who may not have access to Mr. Har-
tert’s article, | give here his list of the birds of the island of
Curacao : —
1. Larus atricilla (Linn.).
2. Sterna hirundo (Linn.).
3. Sterna maxima (Bodd.).
4. Phalacrocorax brasilianus (Gm.).
5. Fregata aquila (Linn.).
6. Pelecanus fuscus (Linn.).
7. Hematopus palliatus (Temm.).
8. Himantopus mexicanus (Mill.).
9. Totanus macularius (Linn.). Actitis macularia.
0. Butorides (Ardea) virescens (Linn.).
11. Ardea candidissima ? (Gm.).
12. Ardea herodias (Linn.).
13. Eupsychortyx eristatus (Linn.).
14. Columbigallina passerina perpallida (Hartert). C. passerina.
15. Leptoptila verreauxi (Bp.).
16. Zenaida vinaceo-rufa (Ridew.).
17. Columba gymnopthalma (Temm. ).
18. Strix flammea bargei (Hartert).
19. Polyborus cheriway (Jacq.).
21. Tinnunculus sparverius brevipennis (V. Berl.).
21. Buteo albicaudatus colonus (V. Berl.).
22. Conurus pertinax (Linn.).
23. Crotophaga sulcirostris (Sw.).
24. Stenopsis cayennensis (Gm.).
25. Chlorostilbon caribzeus (Lawr.). C. atala.
26. Chrysolampis mosquitus (Linn.).
SLE ES ON ELE iene:
. Tyrannus dominicensis (Gm.).
8. Sublegatus glaber (Sel. & Salv.).
. Myiarchus brevipennis (Hartert).
. Elainea martinica riisii (Scl.).
- Hirundo erythrogastra (Bodd.).
. Icterus icterus (Linn.).
. Icterus xanthornus curasoénsis (Ridew.).
. Euetheia sharpei (Hartert). E. bicolor.
. Zonotrichia pileata (Bodd.).
. Ammodramus savannarum (Gm.).
- Certhiola uropygialis (V. Berl.).
- Dendroica rufo-pileata (Ridew.).
- Mimus gilvus rostratus (Ridgw.).
167
CHAPTER IX.
A FEW SUGGESTIONS.
I rotnk that I may say without egotism that I can sometimes
make a fair bird-skin, and the fact that others could do the same
was to me, at one time, nothing remarkable, but now I regard with
great respect the man who can go to the tropics and return with a
collection of good skins. }
Until we have experienced them ourselves, we do not realize the
difficulties that beset the collector in the tropics. Suppose that you
have come in at nightfall with ten or fifteen birds that you wish to
save. You have your supper, and then you begin to realize that
you are tired and sleepy, but still you start to work. You havea
wretched spluttering tallow-dip for light, and mosquitoes come in
clouds to harass you. However, you keep bravely on and finish
one good skin, then look at your watch. You have, if the bird is
a medium-sized one, been at work just twenty minutes; at this rate
you will be four or five hours longer. The prospect is too much for
you; you make two or three more skins, then hang up the rest of
the birds in the coolest place that you can find, and say that you
will begin upon them at daybreak the next morning. When you
wake, you at once notice a peculiar smell; you examine your birds ;
they are putrid, and must be thrown away at once. You still have
the skins left, and later you take a look at them. You find them
covered with thousands of little red ants, the skin of their feet and
their eyelids have already been eaten off, and many feathers have
been cut away, leaving unsightly bald patches. You take each skin,
blow and dust off the ants, clean them thoroughly, and replace them
A FEW SUGGESTIONS. 169
upon the drying board, which you suspend by strings. In less than
an hour the ants have found them again. You clean them a second
time, and now anoint the strings with carbolic acid, tar, kerosene
oil, and camphor, any of which you think would turn back an
insect with the slightest self-respect, but your trouble is for naught.
Later you find that water is the only thing that will keep them back,
so you borrow cans and plates, fill them with water, and arrange
pedestals upon which you think that your skins are safe. After a
while you hear a buzzing, you look at your skins, and see some
large green flies upon them. You drive them away, but the next
day you find gimlet-holes through the heads and beaks of your
birds. They were made by maggots hatched from eggs of the flies.
When at last your skins are dry, you go to pack them, and as you
lift them up, black beetles scurry out from under them. You find
that they have burrowed between the skin and bones of the tarsi
and wings of your skins, until they are mere shells ready to fall in
pieces at a touch. You collect up to the last day of your stay, and
have some green skins which you pack with the greatest care.
After two days on mule-back you arrive at your next station, and at
once proceed to air your skins. The green ones are dry enough
now; but what horrible monstrosities !— their necks twisted and bent,
their feathers lying the wrong way, their bodies distorted. Some of
your skins that you thought were thoroughly dried were evidently
not so, as they are now covered with a fungous mould, their black
beaks a pale silvery color crumbling at the touch. You resolve to
do better at this place, and you put your drying skins out in the
sun. Ina little while you hear a noise, and look out in time to see
a black vulture flying up to the roof with your best skin, one that
you have taken especial pains to preserve. You stand helplessly
looking on until it is torn in pieces and left in disgust. After that,
you keep your skins indoors, but that night the mice take a fancy
to examine them, and the next morning you find the floor strewn
with wings and tails. It is but poor consolation to think that the
arsenic may perhaps have poisoned the mice.
170 A VEENING @DREP LOE EEE: WO PNG)S:
All this may be thought overdrawn, but everything that I have
related above occurred to me, and my object in writing this chapter
is to point out to others who may hereafter go on similar expedi-
tions how they may avoid my troubles.
First of all, I should advise you to collect, when possible, in the
early morning. Get up by daybreak, and take a cup of coffee and
~a mouthful of food before going out. You will find all birds stir-
ving at this hour, whilst at noon you will see few if any. Come in
before eleven o’clock, then rest a little, have your breakfast, skin
your birds carefully, write up your notes, prepare your ammunition,
etc., for the next day, and go to bed early.
Now, in regard to your skins: once that a skin has been thor-
oughly dried in good shape it will stand packing and transportation
with a fair amount of safety, therefore your aim should be to shape
and dry them properly. You may travel with a large and specially
prepared outfit, but small steamer trunks with several trays are very
well suited for packing and drying skins, being
lighter than chests, waterproof to some extent,
and furnished with good locks.
Skins, whilst drying, are undoubtedly safest
from molestation when they are suspended, and
are also more out of your way. A trunk-tray
is easily hung up to a rope, a rafter, or a branch
of a tree, your dried skins can be kept safely in
it, and those that are drying can be placed on a
board crosswise on the tray. The point comes
up about the ants. I suggest the following:
A couple of tin cups, through the bottoms of
which pass a bar with a ring at each end. The
tray is suspended from the lower ring, the cup in turn from the
upper, and the cup being filled with water will effectually keep out
SECTION OF CUP.
the ants. I would also recommend that a piece of gauze or mos-
quito net be spread over the tray when it is suspended. This will
not interfere with the drying, but will prevent the damage from
A FEW SUGGESTIONS. 171
the green flies and beetles. Skins, when dry and packed away in
your trunk, must also be protected from ants, and the best way is
to carry along three or four deep tin plates which will fit into one
another for convenience in packing. Till these with water, put a
stone in each, and place your trunk on these stones.
In regard to your skinning outfit: that will depend upon your
taste, but I recommend simplicity. I took a pair of small short-
bladed, sharp-pointed scissors, a pair of tweezers, a pocket-knife, and
_a knitting-needle, and found this amply sufficient. A tool-handle,
containing gimlets, screw-driver, small chisel, etc., was also very
useful.
For materials: [ was once in favor of plaster of paris in skinning,
but I now prefer Indian-corn meal. Take it tied up in shot-bags.
It is not heavy, will not spill out, and packs well in your trunk.
When you are skinning, spread out a sheet of paper, and when you
are through pour back the meal that is left. It can be used re-
peatedly.
Take cotton batting with you, the kind that is sold im our dry-
goods stores done up in tissue paper. You can roll it up in an old
towel, and by wrapping it tightly with a strong string can compress
it until its size is many times reduced, and it packs away well.
Cotton is found all over Colombia, and I thought that I was doing
something unnecessary when I carried some with me; but in Gua-
duas my supply gave out, and when I sent for some it was brought
to me in little wads about the size of a walnut, and I found that I
could no more stuff a bird with it than I could with a set of build-
ing blocks. However, it was owing to this that I became acquainted
with what I consider a splendid material for stuffing large and
medium-sized birds, —I refer to oakum as used for calking’ vessels.
This is inelastic and retains the shape given to it, and a bird’s body
can be modeled exactly after the one of flesh just removed. Some
birds have wide projecting shoulders, with a deep depression be-
tween the furculum and the neck, and it is just this shape that 1s
dificult to stuff with cotton, but can be fitted like a glove with
172 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
oakum. I obtained the oakum
on the river steamer. The Span-
ish name for it 1s “estopa.” The
best preservative is dry arsenic,
which should be carried in a tight
can with a screw cap. The can
should be conspicuously marked
with both the English word “ Poi-
son” and the Spanish word “ Vé-
neno.”
And now, to change the subject
abruptly, I would say a few words
2 about photography. The ability
to sketch rapidly and accurately
~* is much to be envied, yet for one
person with Mr. Catherwood’s tal-
ent, there are ten thousand with-
out; and then, too, how rapidly a camera does its work! I believe
a camera to be nowadays an essential part of every traveler's outfit ;
yet it has its limitations. In regard to choice of cameras, it is like
choice of shot guns; every one thinks his own the best. I took
with me a “ Hawk-eye,” taking 4 X 5 plates, and used glass plates
entirely, which were developed upon my return. Many of the pre-
RED-TAILED HAWK (LIVING BIRD).
ceding illustrations are from my photographs. I purchased my cam-
era several years before for the purpose of taking pictures of objects
of natural history; and it is of this class of work that I wish to
speak.
Considering birds first, although I am aware that some students
have taken fine pictures of them, I have not met with success.
Those pictures that I have taken of birds in a state of freedom have
not turned out well, usually because of the smallness of the figure
and of the impossibility of selecting a suitable background. I have
had wounded birds from time to time; but it is very difficult to
A FEW SUGGESTIONS. 173
get them in a good position; and the best pictures are but poor.
When seriously wounded, their listless and dejected look is not
what is wanted in a picture, and at the best the surroundings of
fences, cages, chains, or cords destroy the worth of the likeness.
A dead bird is a hopeless task, and photographs of stuffed and
mounted birds, with their dull, protuberant, and lifeless eyes are an
abomination. I will venture to say that not one photograph in a
hundred of mounted birds has the faintest life-like look about it.
Leaving birds and turning to fish, we find a class that, as a rule,
make elegant subjects for the photographer. With them I have
been quite successful. The best to work upon are scale fish of
moderate size; but I have made good pictures of sharks of five
feet in length and of small fish of barely three inches. I would
GREEN HERON (MOUNTED SKIN).
recommend this work to lovers of photography, and will give a
brief explanation of my process. You will need a large sheet of
white blotting-paper, some small wire nails and pins, and a pair of
wire-cutting pliers. Select a moderate-sized fish, with uninjured
tail and fins, fasten your blotting-paper to a board, wipe the fish
dry, and lay it in the centre of the sheet of paper. Cut off the
heads of two of the wire nails, and drive them through the fish and
into the board, one near the head, and the other near the tail.
174 A FLYING TRIP TO THE TROPICS.
Drive the nails until they are below the level of the skin, when the
scales will cover the
holes, and they will
not be seen. These
will support the
weight of the fish.
Now, with your pliers
cut off the heads of
a number of pins,
and use the points to”
keep spread the fish’s
tail and fins. Put
the board on edge, and move your camera up until the fish nearly
covers the plate. Use a very slow plate, and give plenty of expos-
ure. When you have developed your plate, and come to print it,
vignette closely to the fish, by which means you can get an almost
dead white background. In case you do not use a white back-
ground, you may still print on aristotype paper, and then, with a
sharp eraser, scratch off all the print except the fish, thus getting a
pure white background. This sea bass, a male, with the dorsal
WHITE PERCH.
SEA BASS.
A FEW SUGGESTIONS. 5s
SCULPIN.
hump, characteristic of the breeding season, printed well; but its
tail was badly cut up in the net.
I believe this method would be useful to travelers who have not
with them the means of preserving specimens of strange fish that
they may see. It might enable them to identify these fish upon
‘a
my)
SCULPIN.
(By Permission.)
176 A FLYING TRIP .TO THE TROPICS.
their return. The red snapper figured on page 148 is from a
photograph taken as described above. . That this method is also
applicable to fish without scales, the figure of a sculpin will show,
and that the comparative value of the illustration can be judged, I
give also a wood-cut of a sculpin, from a popular work on natural
history.
Crustacea may be treated in the same manner as fish, and the
3 results are equally
as satisfactory.
The various crabs —
found along our
coast are good sub-
jects upon which
to work.
Some insects
may be successfully
photographed ; but
LOBSTER. here the question
of color is so difh-
cult to deal with that one must be an expert before he can count
upon the result. The black and yellow butterflies especially are
disappointing to handle. What I have said of birds applies with
even more force to animals, and to a less degree to reptiles. The
colors of snakes and of terrapin are lost, and of the other reptiles,
it is indeed rarely that one can be gotten to take a good attitude,
and hold it long enough for a good picture.
APPENDIX.
LIST OF WORKS ON COLOMBIA.
A ust of the works treating of any particular subject is always of great help to
the student who may care to investigate that subject, and therefore I have compiled
the following list of works on Colombia, exclusive of the literature of the Isthmus of
Panama. The nature of many of these works is indicated by their titles; in others
this is not the case, and as I have not had access to many of them, nor time to read
others, I have been compelled to adopt a chronological arrangement. I have, how-
ever, collected the purely zodlogical writings and brought them together after the
general list.
It is to be borne in mind that in early days Colombia included at various times
more or less of Peru, Ecuador, and Venezuela, and was known by other names as
Tierra Firma, New Granada, ete. Examining the titles below, it will be seen that
the earlier writings were those of the Jesuits ; then came in historical and biographi-
cal works. In the early twenties, during the struggles of Colombia in securing her
independence from Spain, many officers of foreign armies were attracted as adven-
turers, and later a number of them wrote of their experiences. Then followed a
period in which little appeared. Within the last fifteen years there has been a large
increase in the literature on Colombia, in which the Germans have had a prominent
part. In this compilation I have profited by Pereira’s list (see No. 155). In
Bonnyeastle’s work, 1819, there is a list of 146 works on Spanish America, many of
which may have references to Colombia, but as I have not seen them I cannot
include them.
~ 1. De insulis nuper inventis. Occeanea decas. Petrus ab Angleria Martir.
Legatio Babilonica. Poemata. Seville, 1511.
2. La cronica del Peru. Pedro Cieza de Leon. Amberes, 1554.
~/ GN Elegias de varones ilustres de Indias. Juan de Castellanos. Madrid,
4. Historia de las Indias y Cronica de la Nueva Espafia. Francisco Lopez
Gomara. Madrid, 1600.
5. Histoire naturelle et morale des Indes; tant orientales qu’occidentales, par
\
178 APPENDIX.
le P. Joseph de Acosta; traduite en francois par R. Regnault Cauxois. Paris,
1600.
6. Grammatica en la lengua del nuevo reyno llamada Mosca. Bern. de Lugo.
Madrid, 1619.
7. Noticias historiales de las conquistas de Tierra Firme en las Indias Occiden-
tales. Fray Pedro Simon. Cuenca, 1627.
8. Varones ilustres del nuevo mundo, descubridores, conquistadores y pacifica-
dores del opulento, dilatado y numeroso imperio de las Indias Occidentales. Fer-
nando de Pizarro. Madrid, 1639.
9. L’ Histoire du nouveau monde, ou Description des Indes Occidentales. Le
sieur Jean de Laet. Leyden, 1640.
10. Arte y vocabulario de la lengua de los Indios de la provincia de Cumana o
Nueva Andaleucia. Fr. de Tauste. Madrid, 1680.
i1. Historia general de la conquista del nuevo reyno de Granada. Lucas Fer-
nandez de Piedrahita. Madrid, 1688. :
12. Historia general de los hechos de los Castellanos en las islas i tierra firme
del mar Occeano. - Antonio de Herrera. - Madrid, 1729.
13. El Orinoco ilustrado, historia natural, civil y geografica de este gran rio y de
sus caudalosas vertientes. Le P. Joseph Gumilla de la Compagnie de Jesus.
Madrid, 1741,
14. Historia de la Provincia de Santa Fe, de la compafiia de Jesus y vidas de
sus varones ilustres. Le P. Joseph Cassani. Madrid, 1741.
15. Journal du voyage fait par ordre du roi a l Equateur. M. de la Condamine.
Paris, 1751.
- 16. Historia coro-graphica, natural y evangelica de la Nueva Andalucia. Pro-
vincias de Cumand, Guayana y Vertientes del Rio Orinoco. Fr. Antonio Caulin.
Madrid, 1779. One quarto vol., pp. 482+ 13, engraved title, and three plates of
murders of priests by Indians.
17. A philosophical and political history of the settlements and trade of the
Europeans in the East and West Indies, by the Abbé Raynal, translated by J. O.
Justamond. London, 1783. Eight vols., many maps. (Santa Marta, Cartagena,
and Santa Fe de Bogota in 4th vol., pp. 58 to about 105 incl.)
18. La perla de la America, provincia de Santa Marta. Antonio Julian. Ma-
drid, 1786.
19. Diccionario geographico-historico de las Indias Oeccidentales 0 America. Col.
Antonio de Aleedo. Madrid, 1786-88.
20. Historia del Nuevo Mundo. Juan Bautista Muifioz. Madrid, 1793.
21. Voyage & la partie orientale de la Terre-Ferme. Depons. Paris, 1806. 9 Vv;
22. A voyage to South America: describing at large the Spanish cities, towns,
provinces, ete., on that extensive continent: undertaken by command of the king of
Spain. By Don George Juan, and Don Antonio de Ulloa. Translated from the
Spanish by John Adams. London, 1807. Two vols., pp. 28+479 and 4+419
and index; many maps and plates. (Cartagena in first vol., pp. 19-84.)
APPENDIX. 179
~ 23. Voyage dans l’intérieur de ’ Amérique dans les années 1799 4 1804. Par
A. de Humboldt et A. Bonpland. Paris, 1807-39. Six parts, 1494 plates (349
colored), 5 maps.
There are many other editions of Humboldt’s writings.
24. Spanish America ; or a descriptive, historical, and geographical account of the
Dominions of Spain in the Western Hemisphere, continental and insular. R. H.
Bonnyeastle. Philadelphia, 1819. One vol., pp. 482. (New Granada, pp. 159 to
240 incl. Map.)
25. Barthélemi Casas, Evéque de Chiapa: CEuvres précédées de sa vie. Paris,
1822.
~ 26. Colombia: being a geographical, statistical, agricultural, commercial, and
political account of that country, adapted for the general reader, the merchant, and
the colonist. London, 1822. _Two vols., pp. 124+707 and 782, two portraits,
one large folding map. This is known as Walker’s Colombia. There is also a
Spanish edition.
27. De Republick Columbia, of Tafereel Van Derzelver Tegenwoor. digen
toestand en Betrekkingen; in Brieven, van daar aan zijne vrienden geschreven,
door Carl Richard, Hanoversch officier. Benevens eene levensschets van Simon
Bolivar, President van Columbia. Amsterdam, 1822. One vol., pp. 285.
28. The geography, history, and statistics of America, and the West Indies;
exhibiting a correct account of the discovery, settlement, and progress of the various
kingdoms, states, and provinces of the Western Hemisphere, to the year 1822. By
H. C. Carey and I. Lea. Philadelphia. With additions relative to the new states
of South America. London, 1823. One vol., pp. 477, three folding maps. (Colom-
bia, pp. 412 to 423 incl.)
29. Letters written from Colombia, during a journey from Caracas to Bogotd,
and thence to Santa Martha, in 1823. London, 1824. One vol., pp. 16+ 208, one
large folding map.
~ 30. Colombia : its present state, in respect of climate, soil, productions, population,
government, commerce, revenue, manufactures, arts, literature, manners, education,
and mducements to emigration: with an original map: and itineraries, partly from
Spanish surveys, partly from actual observation. By Col. Francis Hall. London,
1824. One vol., pp. 6+154, one map.
31. Voyage dans la République de Colombia, en 1825. G. Mollien. Paris,
1824. Two vols., pp. 4+308 and 316, seven colored plates, and one large folding
map.
32. Travels in the Republic of Colombia, in the years 1822 and 1825. By G.
Mollien. (Translation of the above.) London, 1824. One vol., pp. 460, one
plate, one folding map.
33. Journal of a residence and travels in Colombia, during the years 1823 and
1824. By Capt. Charles Stuart Cochrane, R. N. Londen, 1825. Two vols., pp.
16+524 and 8+517, two colored plates, one large folding map.
180 APPENDIX.
34. Coleccion de los viajes y deseubrimientos que hicieron por mar los Espafioles
desde fines del siglo XV. Martin Fernandez de Navarrete. Madrid, 1825-29.
~ 35. A visit to Colombia in the years 1822 and 1823, by Laguayra and Caraeas,
over the cordillera to Bogota, and thence by the Magdalena to Cartagena. By Col.
Wm. Duane. Philadelphia, 1826. One vol., pp. 632, two plates.
36. Histoire de la Colombie, par M. Lallement. Paris, 1826, second edition.
One vol., pp. 520, one folding map and plates.
~ 37. Notes on Colombia, taken in the years 1822-3, with an itinerary of the route
from Caracas to Bogota; and an appendix. Capt. Richard Bache, U.S. A. Phila-
delphia, 1827. One vol., pp. 803, two folding maps, one plate.
~ 38. Travels through the interior provinces of Columbia. By Col. J. P. Hamil-
ton. London, 1827. Two vols., pp. 832 and 256, seven plates, one map. Con-
tains many references to birds and shooting,
~ 39. Recollections of a service of three years during the war-of-extermination in
the republics of Venezuela and Colombia. By an officer of the Colombian navy.
London, 1828. Two vols., pp. 15+251 and 8+ 277.
40.° Die Geschichte von Columbia, durch Dr. Ernst Munch. Dresden, 1828.
Two vols., pp. 118 and 111.
Y 41. Colombia in 1826. By an Anglo-Colombian. In the Pamphleteer, vol. 29,
London, 1828, pp. 485-505.
~ 42. History of the life and voyages of Columbus. Washington Irving. 1828.
Three vols.
43. The Modern Traveller: a popular description, geographical, historical, and
topographical, of the various countries of the globe. Colombia. Vol. viii. Boston
and Philadelphia, 1830. Pp. 336, three plates, one folding map.
/ 44, Resa i Colombia, dren 1825 och 1826, af Carl August Gosselman Lieutenant
vid Kongl. Maj: ts flotta. Stockholm, 1830. Two vols., pp. 274 and 300, two
plates, one folding map.
“45, The companions of Columbus. Washington Irving. 1831.
~ 46. Sur la cause qui produit la goitre dans les cordilleres de la Nouvelle-
Granada. Boussingault, in Annales de Chimie, vol. 48, 1831, p. 41 et seq.
~ 47. Sur les salines iodiferes des Andes. Boussingault, in same, vol. 54, 1833, p.
163 et seq.
48. Comunicaciones entre el Sefior Carlos Biddle, Coronel de los E. Unidos del
Norte I la Sociedad Amigos del Pais. Panamdé, 1836. Pamphlet, pp. 22, and
one folding profile.
49. Antiguedades neo-granadinas. Ezequiel Uricoechea. Leipzig, 1837.
50. Voyages, relations et mémoires originaux pour servir 4 histoire de la
découverte de VT Amérique. Ternaux-Compans. Paris, 1837-1841.
' 51. History of the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella the Catholic. W. H. Pres-
cott. Three vols., portraits, maps, ete. 1838.
52. Bogoté in 1836-7, being a narrative of an expedition to the capital of New-
APPENDIX. 181
Grenada, and a residence there of eleven months. By J. Steuart. New York,
1838. One vol., pp. 312.
~ 53. L’Univers. Histoire et Description de tous les peuples. Colombie et
Guyanes, par M. C. Fanin. Paris, 1839. Pp. 32, one folding map, and seven
plates.
54. Geografia historica, estadistica y locai de la provincia de Cartagena. Gen-
eral Juan Jose Nieto. Cartagena, 1839.
55. Beitriige zur geologie von Antidquia; and Uber die Salzquellen des nérd-
lichen Theiles der Proving Antidquia und die Gebirgs-Formationen der Umgebung
von Medillin im Freistaate von Neu-Granada. C. Degenhardt, in Karsten’s
Archiv. fiir mineralogie, xii., 1839, p. 1 et seq.
~ 56. Resumen de la geografia de Venezuela. Augustin Codazzi. Paris, 1841.
~ 57. Resumen de la historia antiyua de Venezuela. Baralt y Diaz. Paris,
1841.
~ 58. Essai sur Pancien Cundinamarea. Ternaux-Compans. Paris, 1842.
59. History of the conquest of Mexico. W. H. Prescott. 1843. Three vols.,
three portraits, two maps.
~ 60. Vidas de los Espafioles celebres. Manuel Jose de Quintana. Paris, 1845.
61. History of the conquest of Peru. W. H. Prescott. 1847. Two volumes,
portraits and map.
62. Compendio histdérico del descubrimiento y colonizacion de la Nueva Granada
en el siglo décimo sexto. Col. Joaquin Acosta. Paris, 1848. One vol., pp. 460,
four plates.
63. Semanario de la Nueva Granada; miscelanea de ciencias, literatura, artes e
industria. Francisco Jose de Caldas. Edition of Col. Acosta. Paris, 1849.
64. .Viajos cientificos 4 los Andes ecuatoriales. Boussingault. Paris, 1849.
Pp. 67.
65. Coleccion de memorias sobres fisica, quimica e historia natural de la Nueva
Granada y Ecuador, escritas por M. Boussingault, actual presidente de la Academia
de Ciencias de Paris; traducidas con anuencia del autor y precedidas de aleunas
nociones de geologia. Col. Joaquin Acosta. Paris, 1849.
“ 66. Observations diverses sur les environs de Santa Fé de Bogoté. P. A.
Cornette, in Bulletin de la Société géologique de France. Second series, vol. 7,
1849-50, p. 320.
67. Memorias para la historia de la Nueva Granada, desde su descubrimiento
hasta el 20 de Julio de 1810. Col. José Antonio de Plaza. Bogota, 1850.
Y 68. Acosta. Sur les montagnes trachytiques de Ruis, dans la Nouvelle Grenade.
In Bull. de la Soe. Géol. de France, Paris, 1850-51, pp. 489 to 496 inel., one plate
of maps, sections, etc.
69. Same. Sur la Sierra Névada de Sainte-Marthe, Formée par le terrain
primitif. In same for 1851-52, pp. 596 to 399 incl., one folding plate of sections.
70. Extrait de differentes lettres sur la géologie de la Nouvelle Grenade. P. A.
Cornette, in same for 1851-52, p. 509.
182 APPENDIX. ;
71. Geognostische Bemerkungen iiber die nord kiiste Neu-Granada’s, insbe-
sondere tiber die sogenannten vulkane von Turbaco und Zamba. H. Karsten, in
Zeitschrift der Deutschen Geologischen Gesellschaft, 1852, p. 579.
72. Memoria sobre la geografia de la Nueva Granada. Mosquera. New York,
1852.
73. Memoir on the physical and political geography of New Granada. General T.
C. de Mosquera. ‘Translated from the Spanish by Theodore Dwight. New York,
1853. One vol., pp. 105, one large folding map. (Translation of the preceding.)
/ 74. Peregrinacion de Alpha (M. Ancizar.) por las provincias del norte de la
Nueva Granada, en 1850 151. Bogoté, 1853. One vol., pp. 524, portrait.
“75. Restimen histérico de los acontecimientos que han tenido lugar en la reptib-
lica, extractado de los diarios y noticias que ha podido obtener el general gefe del
estado mayor general, T. C.de Mosquera. Bogoté, 1855. One vol., pp. 226+ 74.
~ 76. Jeografia fisica I politica de las provincias de la Nueva Granada, por la
Comision Corografica. Provincias del Socorro, Velez, Tunja I Tundama. Bogoté,
1856. One vol., pp. 363.
77. Ueber die geognostischen Verhiltnisse der Westl. Colombia. Karsten.
Vienna, 1856.
78. Physiognomie der Trop. Vegetation Siid Americas. Albert Berg. 1856.
Folio views of Colombian scenery.
~ 79. History of the reign of the emperor Charles the Fifth. Wm. Robertson, W.
H. Prescott. 1857. Three vols., portrait.
80. New Granada: Twenty months in the Andes. Isaac F. Holton, M. A.
New York, 1857. One vol., pp. 605, 53 woodcuts, two colored double-sheet maps.
81. Positions bestimmungen und Hoéhenmessungen in Siid Amerika. Von Liais
und Friesach. Sitzungsberichte der K. K. Akademie der wissenschaften, mathe-
mat., naturw. No. 19, pp. 285-328, No. 38, pp. 591-632, No. 93, pp. 7-14; years
1857, 59, 60.
82. Historia de la revolucion de la Reptiblica de Colombia en la América
Meridional, por José Manuel Restrepo. Besanzon, 1858. Four octavo vols.
First edition was in 1827.
~ 83. Geografia de la Reptiblica del Ecuador. Manuel Villavicencio. New York,
1858. i
/ 84. Beitriige zur geologie des Westl. Columbien. Karsten. Amtl. Bericht der
Wiener Naturforscherversammlung. 1858.
85. The West Indies and the Spanish Main. Anthony Trollope. London,
1859. One vol., pp. 395, map. (New Granada, pp. 242-255.)
86. Voyage aux Indes Occidentales. Anthony Trollope, 1858-59. Dessins
inédits par M. A. de Berard. In Tour du Monde, vol. 2, pp. 49 to 64 inci., one
map, 8 cuts. (From preceding.)
87. Mapoteeca Colombiana. Coleccion de los titulos de todos los mapas, planos,
vistas, ete., relativos 4 la América espafiola, Brasil e islas adyacentes; arreglada
APPENDIX. 183
cronologicamente y precedida de una introduccion sobre la historia cartografica de
América. Ezequiel Uricoechea. London. 1860.
/ 88. Antiquarian, ethnological, and other researches in New Granada, Equador,
Peru, and Chile, with observations on the pre-inearial, inearial, and other monuments
of Peruvian nations; with plates. William Bollaert. London, 1860.
Y 89. Lieutenant Michler’s report of his survey for an inter-oceanic ship canal
near the Isthmus of Darien. Atrato River survey. Senate Document. Feb.,
1861. 1st vol., pp. 457 ; annotated list of 144 species of birds by Cassin, pp. 220-
2o4. 2d vol. contains 17 large folding maps and profiles.
90. Ensayo sobre las revoluciones politicales y la condicion de las reptiblicas
Columbianas. Samper. Paris, 1861.
~ 91. Dr. Moriz Wagner, in Petermann’s Mittheilungen for 1861.
“92. Same, in same for 1862. Eine Reise in das Innere der Landenge von San
Blas und der Cordillere von Chepo in der Provinz Panama, mit besonderer
Beriicksichtigung der hypsometrischen verhiiltnisse und der Kanal frage, pp. 128-
141, colored map.
Y 93. Jeografia fisica I politica de los Estados Unidos de Colombia. Felipe Perez.
Bogoté, 1862. Two vols., pp- 13+494 and 44+ 650, 8 plates.
. 94. Jeografia fisica I politica del Distrito Federal, Capital de los Estados Unidos
de Colombia. Felipe Perez. Bogota, 1862. One vol., pp. 54. pie
v 95. Anales de la revolucion de 1861. Felipe Perez. Bogota, 1863.
96. New Granada ; its internal resources. Powles. London, 1863.
v 97. Vida del Libertador Simon Bolivar. Felipe Larrazabal. New York,
1865-75.
/ 98. Compendio de geografia de los Estados Unidos de Colombia. Mosquera.
London, 1866.
v 99. Autobiografia del General Jose Antonio Paez. New York, 1867.
100. Historia de la literatura en Nueva Granada. Vergara y Vergara. Bo-
gotd, 1867.
Y101. Historia eclesiastica y civil de la Nueva Granada. Jose Manuel Groot.
Bogoté, 1868-71. 2
102. Relaciones de los Vireyes del Nuevo Reino de Granada. Garcia y Garcia.
New York, 1869.
103. Deutsche Konsulatsberichte aus Bogotdé im Preussischen Handelsarchiy,
1870-75.
104. Informe de los esploradores del Territorio de San Martin. Bogoté, 1871.
One vol., pp. 4+59.
105. Esploracion entre San José de Cucuté I el Rio Magdalena. Bogotd, 1871.
One vol., pp. 18.
106. Alturas tomadas en la Republica de Colombia, en los aiios de 1868 y 1869,
por W. Reiss y A. Stiibel. Quito, 1872. One vol., pp. 39, principally barometric
heights.
184 APPENDIX.
107. Voyage & la Nouvelle Grenade, par M. le Docteur Saffray. 1869. In
Tour du Monde, vols. 24, 25, and 26, 1872-73, total pp. 160 and 110 cuts, one
double-page map.
108. Memorias del General Joaquin Posada Gutierrez. Bogoté, 1872-80.
~ 109. Hihenmessungen in Siid-America. In Zeitsch. der Gesell. fur Krdkunde
zu Berlin, 1874, pp. 440, 441.
110. Historia econdémica y estadistica de la Hacienda nacional. Anibal Galindo.
Bogotd, 1874.
111. Genealogias del nuevo reino de Granada. Juan Florez de Ocariz. Ma-
drid, 1874.
112. Compendio de historia patria. José Maria Quijano Otero. Bogota,
1874.
113. Biografias militares. José Maria Baraya. Bogota, 1875.
114. Die Culturlander des alten Amerika. Prof. Bastian. Berlin, 1875-76.
2 starken banden, pp. 720-1005, 3 maps.
15. Memorias de un abanderado, 1810-1819. José Maria Espinosa. Bogotéd,
1876.
116. Dr. Reiss and Dr. Stiibel. Héhenmessungen in den Republiken Colombia
und Ecuador. Zus. ammengestellt von Prof. Meinicke. XII. Jahresbericht des
Vereins fiir Erdk. zu Dresden, 1876.
V 117. Barometrische Héhenbestimmungen in Columbien von Eduard Steinheil, in
Petermann’s Mitt. for 1876, No. 8, pp. 281-284, colored folding map.
Y 118. Reisen in Columbien von Eduard Steinheil, in Petermann’s Mitt., 1876,
No. 10, pp. 393-395, 1877, No. 4, pp. 184-188, No. 6, pp. 222-227.
119. Reise durch den Staat-Magdalena in Colombia, 1874. Tetens, in Mitt.
geogr. gesell., Hambourg, 1876-77, pp. 367-70.
~ 120. My first trip up the Magdalena, and life in the heart of the Andes. J. A.
Bennett, late U.S. Consul at Bogoté, in Journal of the Amer. Geog. Soe. of New
York, 1877, pp. 126-141.
121. L’Amérique équinoxiale: Colombie, Equateur, Pérou, par M. Ed. André,
1875-76. In Tour du Monde for 1877, ’78, ’79, and ’83, total pp. 384, 286 cuts,
16 maps.
122. L’Amérique du Sud; voyage dans la Nouvelle Grenade. E. André, in
L’Exploration, 1877, No. 20.
123. Reisen in nordvestlichen Sud-America. E. André, in Globus, 1878.
124. Anales diplomaticos de Colombia. Pedro Ignacio Cadena. Bogotd, 1878.
125. Recuerdos histéricos 1819-1826. Coronel Manuel Antonio Lopez. Bo-
gota, 1878.
126. Reisen in Siid-America, 1868-1877. Reiss and Stiibel, in Petermann’s
Mitt. for 1878, pp. 30-33.
127. Reiseerlebnisse in Columbien. W. Petersen, in Sitzungsber, naturforscher
gesell. in Dorpat, 1878, pp. 42-47.
APPENDIX. 185
128. Les Chibehas de la Colombie. EE. Uricoechea. Congr. intern. de science
géoor. Paris, 1878, pp. 310-315.
129. Annotations sur les quinquinas des Etats-Unis de Colombie. D. E. Coro-
nado. Paris, 1878, pp. 55.
130. Die Kulturlander des alten Amerika. / 220. Reports and Recommendations of the International American Conference.
Washington, 1890. (Colombia, pp. 122-127. Maps.)
~ 221. Around and About South America; Twenty months of quest and query.
Frank Vincent. New York, 1890. (Colombia, pp. 426-463.)
222. Notas de viaje; Colombia y Estados Unidos de América. §. Camacho
Roldan. Bogota, 1890. Pp. 6+ 900.
223. Avventure di una spedizione alla Colombia, per cura di M. Viglietti.
Turin, 1890. Pp. 200.
224. Le miniere della Republica di Colombia. R. Ragnini, in Boll. Soe. Geogr.
Ttai., 1890, pp. 309-332.
225. La République de Colombie. H. Lennon, in Bull. Soc. Geogr., Antwerp,
1890, pp. 103-122.
226. Travels and Adventures of an Orchid Hunter: an account of Canoe and
Camp Life in Colombia, while collecting Orchids in the Northern Andes. Albert
Millican. London, 1891. One vol., pp. 15+ 222, 73 cuts, one colored plate.
227. Monumenti preistorici della Colombia; viaggio di G. M. Gutiérrez de Alba
nella valle di S. Agostino. C. G. Toni, in L’Esplor. commerce., 1891, pp. 1-15.
228. Telegraphic determination of longitudes in Mexico, Central America, the
West Indies, and on the north coast of South America. Norris and Laird. Bureau
of Navigation, Washington, 1891.
229. Compagnie franco-belge des chemins de fer colombiens. R. Le Brun.
paris, 139i.) Pp3 232.
230. Colombia. Bulletin No. 33, Bureau of the American Republics. Wash-
ington, January, 1892. One vol., pp. 138, 22 cuts, one map.
231. Nueva Geografia de Colombia. T. I. el territorio, el medio y la raya, Ver-
gara. Bogota, 1892.
232. Cartes Commerciales. 6me série. No. 10. Colombie et Equateur. F.
Bianeoni and E. Broc. Paris, 1892. Pp. 36, folding map.
v 233. Die Kordillere von Bogoté. Hettner, in Petermann’s Mitt. Ergiingzungs-
heft, 1892. Pp. 131, large map.
234. The Cordillera of Bogoté. Review of the above in P. R. G. S. of Lon-
don for Dec., 1892, pp. 850-854.
190 APPENDIX.
235. La République de Colombie, géographie, histoire, ete. R. Nufiez and H.
Jalhay. Brussels, 1893. Pp. 259, map. °
236. Die Anden des Westlichen Columbiens ; eine orographische skizze. Hettner,
in Petermann’s Mitt. for 1893, pp. 129-136.
237. Reisen in Siidamerika. Geologische studien in der Republik Colombia.
III. Astronomische ortsbestimmungen, bearbeitet von Bruno Peter. Reiss and
Stiibel. Berlin, 1893. Pp. 327.
238. Rio Hacha et les Indiens Goajires. H. Candelier. Paris, 1893. Pp. 277,
41 cuts.
¥ 239. Coal and Petroleum in Colombia. Commercial information bulletin, Bureau
of the American Republics. Washington, 1893.
240. Encyclopedia Britannica, vol. vi., pp. 1387-141.
There are articles upon Colombia in nearly all eneyclopzdias, and many short
references in magazines and periodicals ; in particular, Das Ausland, Globus, ete.,
and in proceedings of the various geographical societies.
MAPS.
1. Atlas de los Estados Unidos de Colombia. Codazzi.
2. Mapa de la provincia de Antidquia en la republica de Nueva Granada. C. S.
de Greiff. Paris, 1857.
. Large wall map of Colombia. Thierry Brothers. Paris, 1864.
. Savanilla Harbor, Colombia. 1/36500, No. 925, Washington, 1885.
. Cartagena Harbor. 1/36500, No. 978, Washington, 1886.
. Colombie. Carte générale des chemins de fer projétés. 1/675000, Paris, 1886.
. West Coast, Porto Bello. 1/36500, No. 958, Washington, 1887.
. Parida and Palmque Anchorages. 1/73000, No. 1038.
9. Port Nuevo. 1/36500, No. 1039.
10. Bahia Honda. 1/36500, No. 1040, all Washington, 1887.
11. Map of River Sint. F. A. A. Simons, London, 1887.
12. Panama to Cape San Francisco. 1/975000, No. 1176, Washington, 1889.
13. Colombie. Port et mouillagés. Port de Cispata, Port Careto, ete. No. 4653.
Paris, Serv. Hydrogr., 1892.
14. Old Providence Island. 1/73000, No. 1372.
15. Santa Catalina Harbor. 1/18250, No. 1571.
16. Santa Marta Bay. 1/12150, No. 1378.
17. Gulf of Darien, Columbia Bay. 1/36500, No. 1405.
18. Gulf of San Blas, Mandinga Harbor. 1/36500, No. 1406.
19. Serrana Bank, South Cay Channel. No. 1374.
20. San Miguel and Darien Harbor. 1/146000, No. 1410.
21. Chiri Chiri Bay. 1/18250, No. 1407, all Washington, 1893.
Con oS OFF OO
APPENDLX. 191
COLOMBIAN ZOOLOGY.
1. The following is a partial list of the more extensive articles on the zodlogy of
Colombia. It would require many pages to contain a complete list. Throughout
the ‘‘Révue Zoologique,”’ the ‘Magasin de Zoologie,” the “ Ibis,’ the Proceed-
ings of the Zodlogical Society of London, and other similar publications are found
many references to Colombian fauna. In the first two especially are found many
descriptions of the discoveries of the naturalists Goudot and Delattre. The litera-
ture of Colombian humming-birds alone is voluminous : —
1. Fauna Cundinamarquesa. D. Jorge Tadeo Lozano. Mentioned by Pereira,
but no date or locality given.
2. Notice sur quelques oiseaux de Carthagene, ete. Lafresnaye and D’Orbigny,
in Rey. Zool., 1858, pp. 164-166.
3. Nouvelles espéces d’oiseaux mouches de Santa Fé de Bogotdé. Boissonneau, in
same, 1839, pp. 854-356.
4, Oiseaux nouveaux ou peu connus de Santa Fé de Bogotdé. Boissonneau, in
same, for 1840, pp. 2-8 and 66-71.
5. Coléopteres de Colombie, décrits par M. L. Reiche in same for 1842-43,
total pp. 42.
6. Description de quelques oiseaux nouveaux de Colombie. Lafresnaye, in same
for 1842, pp. 301, 302, and 333-336.
7. Insectes nouveaux observés sur les plateaux des Cordilléres et dans les vallées
chaudes de la Nouvelle-Grenade. Méneville and Goudot, in same for 18438, pp.
12-22.
8. Quelques oiseaux nouveaux ou peu connus de Colombie. Lafresnaye, in same
for 1843, pp. 68-70 and 290-292.
9. Description de quelques coléopteres de la Nouvelle-Grenade. Méneville, in
same for 1844, pp. 8-19.
10. Nouvelles espéces Woiseaux de Colombie. Lafresnaye, in same for 1844,
pp: 80-83.
11. Coup Weil sur Vornithologie de la Colombie. Lafresnaye, in same for 1845,
pp: 115-119.
12. Deseription de quelques mammiferes Américains. Pucheran, in same for
1845, pp. 385-337.
13. Sur quelques nouvelles espéces d’oiseaux de Colombie. Lafresnaye, in same
for 1846, pp. 206-209.
14. Description de quinze espéces nouvelles de trochilidées. Delattre and Bour-
cier, in same for 1846, pp. 305-312.
15. Description de vingt espéces d’oiseaux mouches. Bourcier, in Annal. de la
Soe. Royal d’agricult., ete., de Lyons for 1846.
16. Sur le ramphocelus icteronotus du Prince Bonaparte. Lafresnaye, in Rey.
Zool. for 1846, pp. 365-370.
192 APPENDIX.
17. Quelques oiseaux nouveaux de Bolivie et de Nouvelle-Grenade. Lafresnaye,
in same for 1847, pp. 65-79.
18. Sur Vespece de rhamphoceéle & plumage variable rapporté de la Nouvelle-
Grenade, etc. La Fresnaye, in same for 1847, pp. 215-219.
19. On the birds received in collections from Santa Fe di Bogota. Selater, in
P. Z. 8. for July, 1855. Pp. 36. 435 species enumerated. This was also published
as a separate paper.
20. On some additional species of birds received in collections from Bogotéa.
Sclater, in same for 1856, pp. 25-31. 4 colored plates.
21. Further additions to the list of birds received in collections from Bogotéd.
Sclater, in same for 1857, pp. 15-20. 52 species.
22. Catalogue of birds collected during a survey of a route for a ship canal.
across the Isthmus of Darien, ete. Cassin, in Proce. Ac. Nat. Sci. of Phil. for 1860,
pp. 182-144 and 188-197. 144 species.
23. Note sur les trochilidées de la Nouvelle Grenade. De Geofroy. Bogoté and
London, 1861.
24. Catalogue of a collection of birds made in New Grenada, ete. G. N. Law-
rence, in Annals Lye. Nat. Hist. N. Y. for 1861, 62, 63. 4 parts, total pp. 67.
25. Descriptions of six new species of birds from the Isthmus of Panama. Law-
rence, in the Ibis for 1862, pp. 10-18.
26. Descriptions of eight new species of birds from the Isthmus of Panama.
Lawrence, in same for 1863, pp. 181-184.
27. Notes on a collection of birds from the Isthmus of Panama. Sclater and
Salvin, in P. Z. S. for 1864, pp. 342-373. One colored pl.
28. Description of eight new species of birds from Veragua. Salvin, in same
for 1866, pp. 67-76. Two colored plates.
29. On some collections of birds from Veragua. Salvin, in same for 1867, pp.
129-161. Colored plate.
30. On some collections of birds from Veragua. Salvin, in same for 1870, pp.
175-219. Map.
31. Notes on some birds of the United States of Columbia. C. W. Wyatt, in
same for 1871, pp. 118-131, 319-335, 373-384. Map.
32. On a collection of birds from the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta, Columbia.
Salvin, in same for 1879, pp. 196-206.
33. On the birds collected by the late Mr. T. K. Salmon in the state of Antid-
quia, United States of Colombia. Sclater and Salvin, in P. Z.S. for 1879, pp. 486—
5990. Map and three colored plates.
34. On the birds of the Sierra Nevada of Santa Marta, Columbia. Salvin and
Godman, in Ibis for 1880, pp. 114-125, 169-178. 3 plates.
30. Untersuchungen iiber die Vigel der Umgegend von Bucaramanga in Neu
Granada. Von Berlepsch, in Journal fiir Ornithologie for 1884, pp. 273-320.
36. On some interesting additions to the avifauna of Bucaramanga, U. S. of
Colombia. Von Berlepsch, in Ibis for 1886, pp. 53-57. Plate.
APPENDIX. 193
WORKS ON CURACAO.
1. See No. 17 in list of works on Colombia. Curacao (Curassou) is in fifth vol.
p- 425 et seq.
~ 2. Description of a new species of humming-bird from the island of Curacao.
Lawrence, in Annals Lyc. Nat. Hist. N. Y., p. 13.
3. Eenige West Indischen Kolonien na de emancipatie. Fraissinet. Amsterdam,
1879. - Pp. 43.
4. Curacao. J. Kuyper, in Tijdschr. aardrijksk. genootsch. 1882.
). The Aruba and the Papiamento Jargon. Gatchet. American Phil. Soc.
Philadelphia, 1884.
~ 6. On a collection of birds made by Messrs. Benedict and Nye, ete., Island of
Curacao, Venezuela [ sic]. Ridgway, in Proc. U. S. Nat. Museum for 1884, pp. 173-
IAL
7. Die Niederlandische Expedition nach den Westindischen.Inseln und Surinam,
1884-85. Martin, in Tijd. aard. genoot. Amsterdam, 1885.
8. Reise nach den Niederliindisch Westindischen Besitzungen. K. Martin, in
Rev. Colon. Internat. 1885.
9. Nederl. Westindische Expeditie. W. F. R. Suringar, in Tijd. Nederl. aard.
genoot. Amsterdam, 1886.
10. Overhet geolog. verband tusschen de Westindische eilanden. Dr. Molengraff,
in same for 1887.
11. Geolog. Kaarten van Curacao, Aruba en Bonaire. C. M. Kan, in same for
1887. Three maps.
12. Note sur la latitude de Curacao et sur les longitudes de Laguayra, Puerto
Cabello, Curacao et Sainte Marthe. M. Aubry, in Annales Hydrogr. Paris, 1887.
13. Bericht iiber eine Reise nach Niederlindisch Westindien und darauf ge-
griindete Studien I. Land und Leute. Martin. Leiden, 1887.
14. West-indische Skizzen. Martin. Leiden, 1887. Map, pp. 186.
15. Beitriige zur Geologie von Niederliindisch Westindien. Martin. Leiden.
1887-89.
16. Les possessions néerlandaises dans les Antilles. T.C. L. Wijnmalen. Am-
sterdam, 1888.
17. Statistisch overzicht van Ned. West Indie. Same in Bijdr. Stat. Inst. 1888.
18. Geologische Studien iiber Niederlindische-Westindien. Martin. Leiden,
1888.
19. Die Vogel der Insel Curacao nach einer von Herrn Cand. Theol. Ernst
Peters daselbst angelegten sammlung. Von Berlepsch, in Journ. fiir Ornithol., Jan.
1392> Pp: 62:
Y 20. Under the Southern Cross: a guide to the sanitariums and other charming
places in the West Indies and Spanish Main. W. F. Hutchinson. Providence, 1892.
21. Ernst Hartert. Remarks on some birds from Curacao, in Bull. Brit. Orni-
thol. Club, Ibis, Jan., 1893.
194 APPENDIX.
22. On the birds of the Islands of Aruba, Curacao, and Bonaire. Hartert, in
Ibis for July, 1853. Pp. 50, map, colored plate.
23. Liile de Curacao. G. Verschuur, in Tour du Monde for 1893, pp. 81-96.
12 cuts, map.
24, Encyclopedia Britannica, vol. vi. p. 626.
25. Kaart von het Eiland Curacao, ete. Amsterdam, 1886, 20 by 24 ins.
26. Santa Ana Harbor. No. 1049, 16 by 19 ins. Washington, 1890.
27. Spanish Water, Spanish Haven, and Caracas Bay. No. 1245. Washington,
1891.
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