G 89G8ESI0 IQGLI € OLNOHO! JO ALISHSAINN By Presented to the Faculty of Forestry LIBRARY Arthur J. Herridge 1988 A.D. - ~ ‘ Pe ‘) « iy or) CULTY OF F ORESTRY LISRARY ES | UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO © aD: Se Phy atk FPS a . ay 4 ¥ THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST: & Greatise ON THE CULTIVATION OF AMERICAN FOREST TREES, WITH NOTES ON THE MOST VALUABLE FOREIGN SPECIES. BY ANDREW S. FULLER, WBorticulturist, AUTHOR OF “THE GRAPE CULTURIST,” *‘ STRAWBERRY CULTURIST,"* ETC., EI. NEW YORK: GEO. E. WOODWARD & CO., 31 BROAD STREET ; ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 245 BROADWAY. LIRRARY Se ee ee S, IN THE YEAR 1866. BY LLER, PRACTICAL STANDARD PUBLICATIONS OF GEO. E. WOODWARD. “+99 ~ = ae Harney’ s Barns, Outbuildings and ibiiees. 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Post-paid, $1.75, — * Se ate The Crack Sixst: | ns: et ae a or, Young 7*ifleman’s Complete Guide: being a Treatize on the use of the Riile, wits Lessons, including a full description of the latest improved breech-loading weapons; rules and regulAtions: for Target Practice, and directions ior Hunting Game. By Epwarn C. BaRsEeR Post-paid, $1.76... - Gun, Rodand Saddle, i ee ee tg Naeem Address, ORANGE JUDD &.CO., Publishers, 245 Broadway, New York. i PREFACE. Some years since, while gratifying my taste for Horticultural experiments, I was led to plant seeds of many of our native forest trees. The results satisfied me that nothing was wanting but a better acquaintance with the nature and habits of these seeds to insure success with them as ‘anifocn! y as with any others; conse- quently I gave the subject attention, and by observation and ¢x- periment learned how to manage not only the trees of our own forests, but many foreign varieties. I would not be understood to say that I have planted seeds and raised trees of every species and variety, but have experimented sufficiently with the different species a8 to know whereof I write. My success was such that the Farmers’ Club of the American Institute desired ine to give at one of their meetings an account of my experiments, which I did briefly. This was published asa portion of the Report of the mecting in the New York Tribune, and from that copied by other papers throughout the country. In consequence thereof, I have received many let- ters asking more definite information on different points, so many that I have been unable to reply to them so fully as I could have wished. The following pxges were written for the purpose of giving such information as the public seem to desire. I have avoided, so far as I could, the use of botanical and scientific terms, having written, not for professional horticulturists and men of science, but for prac- iv PREFACE. tical farmers. I have therefore endeavored to give the how rather than the why, the practical rather than the theoretical. ‘The man of letters will also undoubtedly find much to criticise in the literary character of the book; this fault I regret more than others can ; but if I have so expressed myself that the reader can get my mean. ing, I shall be content. The book was written for the purpose of showing others how to benefit themselves, and while doing it to conduce to the wealth of the country. If it shall aid in awaking a more general interest in our noble forest trees, causing them to be more fully appreciated, not only for their intrinsic worth, but "because they are of the many blessings bestowed by the Creator upon this our country, then my object will be fully accomplished. Woopsmer, March 30th, 1866. THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. CHAPTER <3. INTRODUCTION. Every civilized nation feels more or less the need of an abundant supply of forest trees. Whether needed for timber to be used in the erection of houses, or in building ships, or for the more common but none the less important purpose of fuel, there is nothing that contributes more to the development of all the sources of national wealth and prosperity. America has felt this need the least ; but the day is coming, if not already here, when her people will look back with regret to the time when forests were wantonly destroyed. It is true there have been many cases where it was neces- sary to clear off the forest that the land might be culti- vated and furnish the food necessary for the early settler; but it is well known that thousands of acres of valuable timber have been removed from land unfit for cultivation, the return from which would scarcely support the laborers who were employed in cutting and drawing it to the near- est market, or converting it into charcoal and ashes. The land from which these forests were taken. is now a silent waste, wlien, if the trees had remained upon it to 6 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. this time, its increased value would have paid the interest on its original cost and taxes, and left a large surplus to the owner. Regrets over past follies will avail nothing unless they teach us to be wiser in the future. In all of our large cities anxious inquiries are made for that indispensable article, timber. If we would extend commerce, ships and docks are needed, and fer these more or less timber is required. The builders, the houseless and homeless, rich and poor, know and feel the need of it. Trees suitable for piles now command twenty to thirty dollars each. One of my neighbcrs rot long since sold one hundred for three thousand dollars; ten years since half that amount would have been considered an exorbitant price. Firewood on the lines of our great railroads, miles away from our cities, sells for seven and eight dollars per cord; and if the demand continues to increase, soon it can not be had for double that amount. The demand increases, although coal and iron are persistent competitors ; but the supply of wood decreases more rapidly. There is no rea- son why the supply should give out; there is land enough within reach of our great cities that les uncultivated, or, what is more lamentable, unprofitably cultivated, that might be made to grow forests of good timber that would return to their owners a large profit on the invest- ment. . I know many large land-owners who have been toiling for the past thirty years to lay up something to keep them in their old age and leave a balance to their children. They have worn themselves out as well as their land, and that something for which they have so arduously labored INTRODUCTION. 7 has not been obtained, and their children are likely to in- herit a poor, worn-out farm instead of that competency which their father expected to have left them. Suppose these men had left one half their farms covered with the original forest, or if it was already cleared when they came into possession they had planted one half with forest trees, and then expended all their labor upon the other half, they would have produced better crops and with more profit ; _ one half of their farm would have been rich, and the other half covered with a forest that would be a fortune worth inheriting. Thousands of men are toiling this day to lay up wealth for their children, when if they would invest a small amount in land and then plant a few acres of our best forest trees, their money would grow into a fortune by the time their children had grown into manhood. To some this may appear visionary; but the writer has lived long enough to see trees grow from saplings that would hardly bear his weight at ten years old, up to great trees two feet in diameter, and he has scarcely passed the half-way house - of three-score and ten. In many portions of our country we need forests, not only for supplying us with timber, but for protection against winds and hurricanes. The farmer’s grain is often prostrated by winds that never reached his fields until these protecting forests were destroyed. Fruit-growers are seeking the best means of shelter for their orchards, and a remedy for that dry atmosphere which sweeps throug? their gardens, shriveling up their finest specimens, checking, if not entirely annihilating, their ardor for fruit-growing. 8 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. The little stream that formerly came singing and danciug down from the great wood on the hill is now seen only for a few weeks in the early spring and fall, and then there is nothing left but its dry pebbly track, Is it not time we began to retrace our steps and again cover some of our now barren hillsides and many of our valleys with those trees which were not only an ornament and blessing to our land, but would now be a source of incalculable wealth? The great West, with its wide-reaching treeless prairies, feels the need of forests even more than we do in the At- lantic States. The farmer on the prairies needs a shelter from the winds, the value of which no one but those who have experienced the want can appreciate. In no way can such a protection be provided better or cheaper than by a belt of trees. Then the convenience of having timber near at hand for building fences, stakes for vines, trees, and a thousand little necessities for which wood is indispensable. A farmer who has provided a belt of trees around his farm has protected his fields from winds, and his grain will remain standing until ready to harvest. His fruit remains on the trees until ripe; and in a great measure his build- ings are safe against those fearful hurricanes which fre- quently rush with such destructive foree across those level plains. If people will persist in residing on those prairies, they certainly ought to be protected, but they should learn how to do it themselves, and not expect that Nature will rear it merely for the asking, without putting forth an effort on their part. I havea vivid recollection of spending several years near those grand old prairies where the wind went and came we INTRODUCTION. 9 without hindrance. One afternoon on coming home I found my house unroofed, and the place where a greenhouse stood in the morning swept clean, not a flower-pot, brick, or piece of glass left to show that I ever possessed a con- servatory of fine plants. Ican call to mind several in- stances of like character, each of which leads me to think that a strong protection is often required to enable the settler in the West to keep his foothold after he has ob- tained one. The question is, How shall protection be the most read- ily provided ?—how shall we get the trees we need? My only answer is, Grow them! This will require time and expense, most certainly—and what blessing does not? It takes time to get wealth, unless you are so fortunate, or un- . fortunate, as the case may be, as to have it given you; if so, it probably required time for the giver to obtain it. The great and important truth which I wish could be im- pressed upon the mind of every land-owner in America is, if you want improvements, begin, yes, begin them now! Do not put it off because you have no time to attend to it at present, nor because it will take so many years, and a little outlay at the start. You may say, “I can not wait so long.” Who asks you to wait? Time moves in spite of you. Plant the seeds to-day, and while you are making up your mind whether you will wait a few years for them or not, the trees will be growing. How often do we meet men with abundance of means who will tell you they would like to have a few trees here or there, a vineyard, or orchard, or a grove, and you pro- pose that they should immediately commence planting; 1* me 10 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. the almost invariable answer will be, “I don’t care for the expense, but I can’t wait so long.” I can count many such men among my acquaintances who have made th same excuse for the last ten or fifteen years, and they have not commenced that grove or vineyard yet, and done very little toward the orchard. There are men, however, with whom to think and to act are near relatives, and a letter which I lately received from one who is a past octogenarian calls to mind a circumstance which happened several years ago; it also illustrates the fact, that there is never a period in life in which a man may not do some good to somebody by planting trees, and often he will gather the blessing himself, although he lit- tle expects it. When I was in my fourteenth year, a gray- haired uncle of sixty, who had just purchased a new farm, requested me to pull up some of the young trees which were growing in masses in my father’s garden, and put them on a load of goods which were going to his place. With the assistance of my father I did so, tying the bundle to the body of the wagon, as there was no room on the load. I well remember the remark of my father at the time : “ Uncle John, you are rather old to think of growing an orchard.” “Never mind,” replied my old uncle, “it is certainly not too late for me to try.” That uncle still lives, and has been enjoying the fruit of those trees for many years. It is well that we can not all be sure of liv- ing to such a venerable age, for in that case I fear we would never begin, as “'Time enough” would become the motto, instead of, as now, “ No time.” The period has now arrived when this subject of growing INTRODUCTION. 1) forest trees requires not only agitation but action. Our numerous agricultural societies should lend their aid by giving premiums for the best endeavors of individuals. Let there be lectures upon the subject, not by the city or village minister, lawyer, or editor, unless they know some- thing about it practically, but by some of the plain men of the country who have no other title than Professor of Farming. These lectures should be delivered in a practi- cal manner; not from some velvet-cushioned rostrum, but from an old log or stump of a tree in some forest or grove. In such a place the speaker can address his audience in an atmosphere filled with his subject, with examples above and around him. Here he can cut, hew, and prune to illustrate his theme without throwing the janitor of the building into hysterics through fear that a whittling might fall on the carpet. In Europe they have arboricultural societies which have not only done much toward disseminating a correct knowl- edge of forest trees, but through whose influence thousands of acres of trees have been reared. There is no reason why such societies should not exist in this country; their usefulness, if rightly conducted, must be apparent to every casual observer. There is no country on the globe that possesses such a numerous variety of valuable forest trees as America. Every article of usefulness of which wood is a part shows it; and if there is one branch of mechanics in which we excel more than in another, it is in our agricultural imple- ments; and who does not know that one of their great points of excellence is the wood used in their construction ? ~ 12 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. The farmer is certainly more interested in these implements than any one else, and it devolves upon him to see to it that the requisite quantity and quality are supplied. To one who has traveled through some of the great for- ests of the North and Northwest, it may seem unnecessary for Americans to ever attempt the cultivation of forest trees. But when we ask ourselves how these great forests can be transported to those regions where they are needed, the question assumes another phase, and we soon learn that transporting timber, especially by land, is a very laborious and expensive business. Even where railroads have penetrated regions abundantly supplied, we soon find that all along its track timber soon becomes scarce. For every railroad in the country requires a continued forest from one end to the other of its line to supply it with ties, fuel, and lumber for building their cars, Cars are continually wearing out, the ties are rotting, and the time is not far distant when these great monopolies will find that it would have been cheaper for them to have grown their own timber than to have depended on others to supply them. How simple it would be for the railroad companies to have a few acres of forest trees every few miles all along and contiguous to the line! Yet the farm- ers along these roads remember that timber will always be needed; and it is not always economy to cultivate with grain every piece of land from which you have taken the trees. Better let the sprouts grow, and the young seedlings which always show themselves soon after the large trees are cut away. A little thinning out of the least valuable kinds, and an occasional pruning of those INTRODUCTION. 13 left, will often prove to be a better plan and a much more profitable one than to clear off and plow up the soil. If a particular kind of timber is wanted, then those trees should be left in preference to others. How few there are who have ever made a calculation of the value of an acre of White Oak, Hickory, Chestnut, or White Ash! As we find these in our native forests, they are mixed with other trees, often with those that are comparatively worthless. But suppose we have an acre purely of one kind, and that of the most valuable. What kind is most valuable must be ascertained by the grower himself, for it will depend upon his location, and which is in the greatest demand in his nearest market. Suppose we take Hickory, which is always in demand, when young, for hoop-poles, as it becomes larger for other purposes. There are other kinds equally as valuable and of more rapid growth. Now the young one or two year old plants, or even the nuts, may be put in rows four feet apart, and the plants one foot apart in the row; this will give 10,890 to the acre. At this distance they can be allowed to remain until they are six to eight feet high and one or two inches in diameter. They should reach this size in five to eight years, according to the soil and the care they receive. Then they should be thinned, by taking out every alter- nate tree; this should be done by cutting them off near the ground. We therefore take out 5,445 trees suitable for hoop-poles. Their value will of course depend upon the market, but we will say four cents each, or $40 per 1,000, which would be a low price in New York; this would give $217 80 (two hundred and seventeen dollars and eighty 14 - THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. cents) as the return for the acre’s first crop. In three or four years they will need thinning again, and we take out, as’ before, one half, or 2,722; these will, of course, be much larger; and if they will reach ten feet, and are of good thickness, they will readily bring ten cents each, or $272 20 for the second crop. In a few years more they will require thinning again, and each time the trees, being larger, will bring an increased price. But we are not by this means exhausting our stock—far from it, for those we cut off at first have been producing sprouts which have grown much more rapidly than the originals; and if a little care has been given them so that they shall not grow so thickly as to be injured thereby, we can begin to cut small hoop-poles from the sprouts of the first cutting be- fore we have cut our third or fourth thinnings of the first crop; consequently we have a perpetual crop, which requires no cultivation after the first few years. As soon as the leaves become numerous enough to shade the ground, no weeds will grow among them, and the annual crop of leaves that fall will keep the soil rich and moist. The time to cut trees which it is desirous to have produce sprouts, is in winter or very early spring; if cut in summer, it is likely to kill the roots. The same plan may be followed with many other varie- ties of trees that are valuable when young. Whether it will pay to grow such trees or not, will depend entirely upon the location, market, ete., but there are few sections of our country in which such plantations would not be a very profitable investment. Plantations of trees may be made in the form of be'ts INTRODUCTION. 15 of a few feet or rods in width around the farm; and while they afford shelter and protection they will also become a source of revenue and profit. It is always best to plant the young trees near together at first, and then thin out as they grow. These annual thinnings, even where the object is to allow the main crop to grow to a large size, will more than pay for all the care and cost of the whole. 16 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. CHAPTER II. PROPAGATION. Tiere is no occasion for a very scientific or elaborate description of the different methods employed in propaga- tion of forest trees being given in a simple treatise like this. That they may be propagated in various ways is true, but the man who desires to grow only the native or more common exotic forest trees has no occasion to study the mysteries of horticultural science. I am well aware that it has been generally supposed among the farmers that it was only nurserymen that were able to grow such trees successfully ; but this is an error; or, at least, if they do succeed better than others, it 1s only because they have given more attention to the subject; as it does not require any more skill to grow an acre of our common forest trees than it does to grow an acre of cabbage or corn. They require no better preparation of soil or any better after-culture than a majority of our ordinary farm crops. The cost of producing seedling trees is also much less than those unacquainted with the subject would suppose. Having grown many thousands, I think that a fair esti- mate of cost at one year old, tuking one variety with an- other, will not exceed two dollars per thousand. ‘This estimate includes the cost of seed, preparing soil, hoeing, weeding, ete., for one season. The cost will certainly de- PROPAGATION. t7 pend somewhat upon the price paid for seed, for there are some kinds of the more rare native trees, such as the Mag- nolia, Cladrastis, ete., the seeds of which would cost nearly the amount named. My estimate refers mainly to the dif- ferent varieties of Maple, Ash, Oak, Tulip, Spruce, and sim- ilar kinds, the seeds of which are always to be had very cheap. The larger nut-bearing trees, such as Chestnut, Walnut, Hickory, Butternut, etc., would cost a trifle more, as they are always in demand for other purposes than for growing trees. Besides being more bulky, the cost of transportation is proportionably greater. Where the seeds can be had near at hand, the cost per thousand ought not to be more than the sum named. I do not wish to esti- mate the cost too low, but having grown and sold many thousands of such trees, I feel qualified to name a price, because it is derived from actual experience. No one must expect to buy trees at two dollars per thousand, be- cause those who grow them for sale expect, and have a right to demand, a profit. Every one who wants forest trees in large quantities should learn how to grow them upon their own land, then they will have them near at hand when wanted, and can transplant them at their leisure. All of our most valuable forest trees are readily grown from seed, there being only a few kinds—and most of these are of an inferior quality—which are more easily grown from cuttings. I will give my own method of growing the different varieties, although it may or may not accord with the practice of others; the results, however, have always been satisfactory. 18 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. SEED-BED. For nearly all of the hardy deciduous trees (7. ¢., those that lose their leaves in the autumn), an open field is a cood situation for a seed-bed. The soil should be deep, mellow, and rich; if not so, make it so by frequent plow- ing and thoroughly pulverizing with the harrow. If not rich, apply a good liberal dressing of any old well-decom- posed manure. Good barn-yard is good enough if old; muck, rotted sods, or leaf mold from the woods will answer every purpose. If none of these are at hand, then bone-dust or ashes may be used; a ton to the acre will not be too much of the latter, or from fifty to one hundred two-horse loads of the muck and leaf mold, and half that quantity of manure. Double this amount would be still better, unless your soil is good at the start. Mix these applica- tidns thoroughly with the soil, and harrow all down smooth an level, and your seed-bed is ready. Now draw a line Fig. .1. across one side of the plot, and with a hoe make a shallow trench from a half to one inch deep, according to the size of the seeds to be sown. (Fig. 1 shows a wide seed drill PROPAGATION. | 19 or trench when ready for the seeds.) Make the trench about one foot wide; scatter the seeds over the bottom, but not too thickly, say one to two inches apart, and then draw the soil back and cover the seeds as evenly as possi- ble. These seed-beds or wide drills should be four feet apart if a cultivator is to be used among them; if not, and only the hoe or spading-fork is to be employed in culti- vation, then two feet will be sufficient. All that will now be required is to keep the soil loose between the rows, and keep them clear of weeds, keeping in mind that, like other crops, better the care, the better results. The smaller the seeds the less they should be covered, although some small seeds will bear covering much deeper than some large ones. Maple, Elm, Oak, Beech, Tulip, ete., not more than a half inch, while Hickory, Chestnut, and Black Walnut about one inch. I sometimes sow the coarser seeds in single drills, having only one row instead of the wide bed ; in this case the corner of the hoe is only used to make the trench. Where there is no scarcity of land, the single drill is in some respects preferable, as it is less trouble in weeding, and the plants will usually grow larger than when sown more thickly. Still, the wide drill has its advantages, for more plants can be grown on an acre; besides, the plants shade one another, and thereby are not quite so lable to be burned by the sun, as in single drills. There are, how- ever, but few kinds that are liable to be damaged by burning, even in our hottest weather, and these should be grown in a half shady position. Some varieties are bene- fited by being partially shaded when they first appear 20 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. above ground, also by being protected from the cold the first winter, consequently it is best to sow the seeds of these in small beds, say four feet wide and as long as required. Around these beds set up boards a foot or ore in width, fastening them with stakes or by nailing them together at the corners, and by placing cross-bars every four feet along their length. The soil in these beds should be made fine and rich, and raked level before the seeds are sown. Sow in drills six inches apart, or broad-cast, and rake in. After sowing, put on the screen, which may be of coarse matting, or evergreen boughs, or, what is better, one made with laths. These lath screens should be long enough to lie cross-wise of the frames, and about three or —— Fig. 2. four feet wide. (Fig. 2 shows an inclosed seed-bed cover- ed with a lath screen.) Ifthe seed-bed is not over four feet wide, one length of common lath will cover it cross-wise ; then by nailing a narrow strip of board across the ends of the lath, your frame screen will be complete. The laths should be placed one to two inches apart; this will allow plenty of light to reach the soil, but not enough to injure the plants; it will also allow the rain to find access to the beds. These lath screens are the most convenient, cost but PROPAGATION. 21 little, and will last a long time if placed under cover when not in use. The sun reaches every part of the bed through the screens in the course of the day, but does not remain long enough on any particular spot to cause injury. A board fence or hedge running east and west will often answer very well for a screen for the more delicate varie- ties which require it; on the north side of these make the bed, and only so wide as will be shaded in the middle of the day. Most of the evergreens require a little protection from the sun when they first come up. There are also some of our deciduous trees which are rather tender and often burn off when they first appear above ground. The Mountain Ash, Larch, Taxodium, and some others, often fail entirely for the want of a little protection at this time. No gen- eral rule will apply to all, nor can there be any specific rule which will apply to each and every section of the country; as soil and climate vary, 8o must practice. It is better to be careful than careless, therefore it is better to use a preventive than risk a failure. When I come to speak of the different varieties, I shall indicate kinds which are better sown in shady situations than in open ground. It may not always be necessary, but is certainly the safest. Seeds sown in these beds with screens should not be covered too deep, and the best way to do it is with a sieve, whether in drills or otherwise. The best soil for covering is fine leaf meld, so well rot- ted that it will pass readily through a sieve with one eighth of an inch meshes. It will often be necessary to water these seed-beds, especially when the small and delicate 22 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. varieties are sown, as such must not be covered more than one fourth of an inch deep; and unless the surface of the soil is kept moist, they will very likely fail to come up. A very light sprinkling every day in dry weather is what they require, not a drenching to-day and no more for a week or two. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. When the plants first come up, and have formed but few leaves, is the time the most care must be used in watering, and no more should be applied than they actu- ally require to keep them from suffering for the want of it. Too much moisture at this time, especially if the weather is very warm, will cause them to damp off, or, in other words, rot off. Remove the screens in cloudy weather that the plants may get plenty of air, for our object just at this time is to harden the plants or make their stems firm and woody, not by drying them, but by a healthy growth. So soon as they are from two to six inches in height (according to the varieties), very little care is re- quired. If the weather should be very dry, give them water; but the sprinklings may be dispensed with, and a good soaking be given instead, but only occasionally or when the plants really need it. For evergreens, the screens may be kept on the beds most of the summer, but remove toward fall so that the plants may be thoroughly ripened. At the approach of winter, or so soon as the ground begins to freeze, put on the sereens or lay strips across the top of . the frames, and on these place straw, hay, cornstalks, ever- green boughs, or any such material that may be at hand. It is not expected that the frost will be entirely excluded, nor would it be advisable to do so, for there would be PROPAGATION. 23 danger of smothering the plants. The covering is merely to prevent the frequent freezing and thawing of the ground and heaving out the plants. TIME FOR SOWING SEEDS, There can be no specified time given for sowing all kinds of tree seeds, but for a general rule, very soon after they ripen is the best. It is certainly not always conveni- ent to do so, nor is it always necessary, but with some kinds a delay of a few weeks is almost certain to result in a complete failure. Some kinds of seeds retain their vital- ity for years, while others for only a few months at most. The want of specific knowledge upon this point has been the cause of many failures, and will probably con- tinue to be so until more general information is dissemi- nated. To more fully illustrate this point, I will suppose a case. Mr. B.,a farmer at the West, wishes to grow a quantity of the different kinds of maples, and he writes to some Eastern seedsman ordering two bushels of each of the following kinds: Sugar Maple, Norway Maple, Red Maple, Silver Maple, sending his order in the fall, knowing that at that time most trees ripen their seeds. But for once he has made a mistake; and if he has sent his order to an honest and intelligent seedsman, he will fill one half of Mr. B.’s order, and write him why he does not send him all the seeds ordered. But if he has sent his order to one who is not posted up in the matter, or who values money more than honesty, he will fill the order complete, and the result will be that the seeds of the first two kinds will grow, and the others not. 24 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. The Red and Silver Maple ripen their seeds in spring or early summer, about the first to the middle of June in this vicinity, and they retain their vitality for only a few weeks. If sowed so soon as ripe, they will come up in a few days, and make a growth of one to three feet by the time the Sugar and Norway Maple seeds are ripe in autumn. If Mr. B. had been aware of this fact, he would have sent his order for them early in spring, and have directed that they should be forwarded to him in bags, or, what is better, baskets, but not in close boxes, for when excluded from the air, or closely packed together, they will heat, and soon be destroyed. These two varieties of maples are among the few forest tree seeds that absolutely demand immediate planting, and then they grow very readily. PRESERVING SEEDS. 25 CHAPTER III PRESERVING SEEDS. As before remarked, some kinds of seeds retain their vitality for a long time, and others only for a short period. Those seeds that have a firm, horn-like covering, like the Locust, Virgilia, etc., generally retain their vitality the longest, while the seeds of the Maple, Elm, and similar trees that have a very porous covering, are comparatively short- lived. The size of the seed is no indication of its vital- ity; the largest may perish much sooner than the very smallest. The Black Walnut, Horse Chestnut, and Butternut will seldom if ever grow after the first season, while the Virgilia and Locust, which are quite small, will germinate after having been kept for a dozen years. The vitality of all seeds may be retained for a much longer time than was evident- ly intended by Nature, if they are placed under the proper conditions. A cool, dry, and equal temperature appears to be the best adapted for the preservation of all seeds. The humidity of the atmosphere has also much to do in enabling them to retain their vitality, for while a warm, moist one is just suited to growth, it hastens the death of the seeds. For when the germinating powers of the seed have once been excited into growth, it can not be checked without injuring, if not wholly destroying, its vitality. A 2 26 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. warn, dry atmosphere evaporates the moisture, causing them to shrivel, and thus destroys them. Some seeds, as the Chestnut, contain such a large amount of albuminous matter that it is quite difficult to keep the temperature and humidity of the atmosphere just in the right state for their preservation. All such seeds should be placed in the ground, or on it, soon after they are ripe, and covered with leaves or some similar material, follow- ing Nature’s method, as they receive there the proper de- gree of warmth and moisture requisite to their preserva- tion, better than in any other situation. GATHERING AND TRANSPORTING SEEDS, Seeds should always be gathered in dry weather, and those kinds which are inclosed in an outer covering, like the Butternut, should be spread out in an airy situation until they are quite dry before being packed for transporta- tion. It is also advisable to dry all tree seeds a little, but it must be varied according to the size and natural amount of moisture they contain. Those that possess a large amount either in their covering or in the seed proper are liable to heat if packed in close air-tight boxes. Baskets and bags, or boxes with small holes bored in them, should be used for the purpose, especially if the seeds are to re- main in them for several days. Sheets of paper, or layers of dry moss, may be placed between the layers of seeds to absorb the moisture, when necessary to pack the seeds be- fore they are sufficiently dry. These remarks only apply to the larger seeds and those that naturally contain con- siderable incisture at the time.of gathering. PRESERVING SEEDS. 27 The smaller seeds as well as larger ones that are inclosed in a dry covering, such as the Alder, Spruce, and Pine among the smaller, and Beech and Hickory among the larger, may be transported in bags, barrels, or tight boxes; all that is necessary is to keep them dry while on transit. WHERE TO OBTAIN SEED. Where shall we get our seeds? is a question that admits of only a very general answer. It is apparent to all, that where the trees grow, there will the seeds be found most abundant. The sections of country where the different trees most abound will be pointed out in the following pages. If in those sections there are any persons who gather seeds for sale, whose address you can obtain, they will be glad to furnish you, otherwise you may have some acquaintance there who will take the trouble to gather them for you; or, this failing, you could write to a postmaster in the vicinity stating your desire, and asking him to aid you by giving you the address of some one who would be likely to furnish them, inclosing a prepaid envelope for the answer. Our country postmasters are generally accommodating men, and if you do not ask them to write a long letter and pay the postage themselves, on business which wholly benefits yourself, you will find them ready to do a favor even to a stranger. When you get the address of the person, write him stating in a few words what you desire ; and if he can not get the seeds for you, ask him if he can refer you to some one who ean (always inclosing a postage stamp for reply). ‘There are miiuy ways in which a correspondence may be brought 28 : Tifiii FOREST TREE CULTURIST. about between farmers, in different parts of the country, which would result in advantage to both parties. Seeds could be exchanged, and information upon various subjects given and received. If farmers would write and study more and work less, they would get rich sooner, live longer, and be more happy. When the seeds wanted can not be procured in this way, then write to some seedsman for them, always send- ing in your order early; never wait until it is time to sow the seeds before ordering them. Few seedsmen save any more than they are likely to sell, not wishing to incur the expense of having a large quantity gathered to supply an uncertain demand. And here let me say to those who are about ordering seeds: You will not only be more certain of getting what you want, but you will accommodate the seedsman by sending your order a month—yes, six months—before you require them. It is not necessary that you should send the full amount of cost with the order, but you should send a small sum, unless you are personally known to the one to whom you send your order. If you wish to buy — fifty or one hundred dollars’ worth, send five or ten dollars along with the order, as this will show that you are in earnest and intend to buy what you have asked for, and your order will be put on the order-book. If you merely write saying that at some future time you will want such articles, ten to one your letter goes into the waste-basket and no notice taken of it. Perhaps Mr. Seedsman has ten just such letters from different parties the same day yours reached him, and he knows from past experience that prob- PRESERVING SEEDS. 29 ably not more than one out of the ten will buy the seeds about which they have written to inquire. There has been for many years quite a demand for American forest tree seeds in Europe, and a few of our seedsmen have made a specialty of gathering them. There is an abundant supply, and our seedsmen possess the fucil- ity and energy to meet the demand for any amount that may be required. But do send in your orders early. ac THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. CHAPTER IV. GROWING FROM CUTTINGS, THERE are a few kinds of trees that are more readily grown from cuttings than from seeds, among which are the different species of Willow, Poplar, Buttonwood, ete. Sometimes seeds of other kinds can not be obtained as readily as cuttings; and when they are of varieties which can be easily propagated in this manner, then it will be desirable to do so.* When cuttings are to be grown in the open ground, it is best to cut them in the fall, so soon as they have cast their leaves, and heel them in, away from the frost, until spring. The safest place to keep cuttings during winter is in some dry place in the open ground, and either have them tied in small convenient bundles or laid in trenches, after which cover so deep that they will not freeze. The length of the cutting will depend somewhat upon the kind, but from six to twelve inches is usually the most convenient. Ifin bundles, they should be tied with tough willow, tarred twine, or some similar material, as ordinary hemp or cotton twine may become rotten before the * The scientific horticulturist who has propagating-houses at com- mand, experiences no great difficulty in multiplying those varieties of which he can not obtain seeds, or grow from ripe wood cuttings, by using the green growing wood in summer ; but such a process belongs to him alone, and not to the common farmer, for whom this work is especially written. GROWING FROM CUTTINGS. 31 cuttings are wanted for planting. In spring, so soon as the weather is suitable, take out the cuttings and plant them in trenches made with a plow or spade, placing them two or three inches apart in the row, and the rows from 3wo to four feet apart, according to the manner in which they are to be cultivated. The cuttings should be placed nearly their whole length in the ground, and in an up- right position, leaving only an inch or two above the sur- face. Press the soil firmly around them, and give the same care as for seedlings, with a similar soil and situation. These remarks apply only to deciduous trees, and are general in their character. Specific directions as to whether the cuttings are to be made of young or old wood, will be noticed in another place. In making the cuttings, it is always best to cut. just below a bud, and square across instead of sloping, although it will make but little dif ference except with those kinds which have a large pith; with such kinds there is danger of too much water enter- ing the lower part of the cutting and causing it to decay before it can take root. But if cut off just at the base of a bud, this is prevented, as at this point there is usually a cross section of wood entirely closing the space occupied by the pith in other portions of the stem. Some kinds of evergreen trees may also be readily prop: agated by cuttings. This is only advisable when seeds can not be obtained, or when it is desirable to multiply some particular variety upon whose seeds, if they were to be obtained, there could be no certainty of getting plants like the parent. The Arborvitzs, Junipeis, Yews, etc., are often successfully propagated without artificial heat rey ug THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. The cuttings of these are taken off early in the fall and placed in frames similar to the one described for seeds. Cuttings are made of the ends of the branches, and mainly of the present season’s growth, with perhaps a lit- tle of the two-year-old wood attached. They should be three or four inches in length, and the leaves of the lower half cut away; cut off the lower end smooth and square Fig. 3. across the stem, being careful not to crush the wood. Fig. 3 shows a cutting of Arborvite prepared for planting. Place these in the soil about one half their length, and in rows six inches apart; press the earth firmly about them; give water sufficient to settle the soil; they should be GROWING FROM CUTTINGS. 33 covered tlien, or so soon as the ground begins to freeze, and remain undisturbed until spring. If glazed frames can be put over them, and kept partially shaded until covered for winter, it will facilitate the production of roots. They should be kept shaded until well rooted; for if the sun is allowed to come fully upon them, it will excite the leaves into growth; and if no roots have been previously formed, no permanent growth can take place, and the cuttings die. Our object is to obtain roots first, afterward growth of top. It is well known that roots will form at a much lower temperature than leaves; and we take advantage of this fact by placing the cuttings in the frames, where they will remain so cool that there will be no growth of leaves, while the lower portion, which is underground, is in a posi- tion warm enough for the production of roots. Most of the evergreens emit roots very slowly from ripe wood cuttings. But if the frames are comparatively warm during winter (as they may be easily made by being well banked and covered), small roots will be produced by the time warm weather approaches in spring. The cuttings should remain in the frames during the first summer, and be treated as though they were seedlings, being protected in winter. Cuttings of the young growing wood in sum- mer can also be very readily grown in a hot-bed, but this requires more care than with ripe wood, and very few would succeed if they attempted it, except those who fully understand the management of hot-beds. As I propose to give only the most simple and easiest modes of multiplying our forest trees, I will omss further particulars upon propagating them, by cuttings. Q* 34 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. CHAPTER YV. BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. OruER methods of propagating than those already given will seldom be employed or are necessary for those who grow trees for shelter or timber. There will, however, sometimes cases occur when it would be quite advantageous even for the common farmer to propagate certain trees by other methods instead of cuttings and seeds. Trees will often vary considerably when grown from seeds. Maple seeds will certainly produce Maple trees; still, occasionally, a seedling will be found that is quite distinct from all the others ; and if it should possess some peculiar and striking characteristic which it would be desirable to perpetuate, then we must have recourse to some other method of prop- agating it than that of seeds, because it would take a long time for the new variety to grow to a bearing size; be- sides, its seeds would be just as likely to vary, and even more so than the seeds from which it was grown. When trees have once shown any considerable variation from the original type, and the natural or fixed characters have changed, they are likely to sport more widely in the future generations than in the first one. This principle is so well known among horticulturists, that they always strive, when operating with a distinct species, to so influ- ence it that its seedlings will be different from the parent plant. BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. - 35 A yariation is also often effected by moving a plant from its native country or soil to another; and when this change has once taken place, and the foundation of generation has been broken up, then variations become as common and apparently as natural as the fixed character was in the beginning. All, or nearly all, of our cultivated fruits and flowers are the results of the breaking up of the natural or original types from which the different species were deriv- ed. Knowing this, we should always watch for variations, and when discovered, preserve them with great care. When trees assume any particular form or character from the natural one, they are said to sport, and thus we have as sports of the Maple the striped-leaved, purple- leaved, etc. In nearly every species of ornamental trees we have such sports, and many of them are very beautiful, affording a most pleasing variety of color and form of foliage, and perhaps all were derived from a single species, though often several have contributed one or more of the number. Variations that possess any particular merit or value are not common, still they are sufficiently so to warrant us to be on the look-out for them, especially when a large num- ber of seedlings are grown. It will always be worth while for the grower to carefully look over his seed- lings, and if he should discover any one or more that — show any peculiar form or color of foliage, or any par: ticular habit of growth different from the mass, lef them be marked, and at the proper time taken up and planted by themselves, where their future development may be carefully observed. We have a fine pyramidal- growing Maple; but a weeping one would be still more 36 RHE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. desirable. Such a tree will be produced, but when, or by whom, the future will unfold. When a really fine sport or variety has been produced, no time should be lost in multiplying it, as there is always danger of losing the original; and if this should occur, then all is lost, unless we have propagated others from it. Now there are several ways of propagating such trees, but I shall mention only three, viz., Layering, Budding, and Grafting. LAYERING. This mode of propagating is almost as natural as that of seeds, as we see many plants that increase in this man- ner. Whenever the branches come in contact with the earth they emit roots; these layers throw up shoots which form plants, trees, or shrubs, and their branches again bending to the ground repeat the process, and so on indef- initely. But with those trees of which we shall treat in the following pages, very few, if any, would increase in this manner unless assisted or compelled to do so. The principle, or, more properly, the theory, of Layering may be explained as follows: A tree absorbs plant-food through its roots (this being always in the liquid form) ; it is then carried up through the alburnum (or what is commonly called the sap-wood) to the buds and leaves; it is there assimilated chiefly by the leaves, and the more volatile portions are given off; it then returns downward through the inner bark, and be- tween it and the wood depositing a thin layer of alburnous matter, which becomes soon after fully formed wood. Now BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETO. ot the ends of the lowest root, so that we see that branches and roots are formed of one and the same material; and if we wish to convert a branch into roots at any particular point, we have only to give it an opportunity of escaping into a congenial and natural element. Consequently, when we wish to make a branch produce roots.so that it shall become capable of living independently of the parent plant, we bend it down and cover that portion on which we wish to produce roots, at’the same time making an in- cision through the bark and into the wood, so as to arrest or cut off the downward flow of sap at that particular point. This cutting the branch is not always necessary with all kinds to insure the production of roots; still, it hastens the process, even with those that produce their roots most readily. But we must not cut so deeply as to prevent the upward flow, because we wish the branch to live and grow until it has produced sufficient roots to sup- Pie 4 port itself As a general rule, the branch may be cut half through, and on the under side, and if slightly split, it will be all the better. Fig. 4 shows a layer as it appears when 38 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. buried nm the soil. The incision is made in the branch before bending it down, and the knife inserted just below a bud, passing into the wood, and then an inch or more lengthwise, the branch forming what is termed a tongue— see fig. 4, a. A hooked peg is usually employed to hold the layer in its place, as it is important that it should be held firm, so that it may not be swayed about by the wind. Layers may be made at almost any time, but they will root sooner if made in early or mid-summer than if made earlier or later. But as they should not be separated from the parent plant until the wood is ripe in the fall, or the leaves have fallen, if from deciduous trees, it is well to make them in spring as soon as the trees have put forth their leaves, so that they shall have sufficient time to be come well rooted by fall. Evergreen trees should be layered while the trees are in full growth, and not before or after. It will sometimes require two seasons for layers of some trees to become sufficiently rooted to be separated ; it is therefore necessary to carefully examine those that emit roots tardily before separating them. Some kinds of trees will produce roots when layered without cutting the branch—in fact, all will in time; but the surest way is to expose the alburnum to the soil. Sometimes a part of a tree, or a small branch thereof, will vary from the original; when this occurs on a large tree, and where the branch can not be made to reach the ground, we must elevate the soil or some sim- ilar material to the part that we wish to propagate, un- less it be a variety which can be readily prapagaved from cuttings, bads, or grafting. BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETO. 39 Suppose a single branch of Beech should produce leaves that were pure silver-white (and I know of one that does), and we wish to obtain plants from it; as the Beech will not grow from cuttings, and is difficult to bud and graft (at least the novice would find it so), we desire to ob- tain a layer; now we have only to place a pot or box of soil near the branch so that we can layer it into the soil the same as we would if near the ground, after which it will be necessary to keep it moist to facilitate the produc- Fig. 5. tion of roots. Fig. 5 shows a branch layered in a pot that has had a piece taken from the side and the branch passed through it; this crevasse is closed by a piece of board or shingle placed on the inside of the pot; the pot is then filled with soil, and the branch is layered. It is well to surround the pot with moss, or several thicknesses of cloth, so that the wind will not dry the soil too quickly, as in that case it will require very frequent watering. 4A. box will answer every purpose as well as a pot; ali 40 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. that is necessary is to make the incision in the branch be fore putting it in the earth, and then see that it does not become so dry that the roots can not grow. BUDDING, Budding consists in taking from one tree a bud, with a small piece of bark attached, and transferring it to another. The tree upon which it is placed is called the stock. The limits of this operation are not very well defined; but for all practical purposes it need not be extended beyond the members of the same genus; that is, Maples may be bud- ded on Maples; and generally, the nearer related the species, the more successful the operation. But, like other rules in Horticulture, there are exceptions, and sometimes by budding a weak-growing kind on a strong-growing one, we make a decided improvement. Again, it must not be | supposed that all the individuals of one genus can be worked indiscriminately one upon another; for the Black Mazzard Cherry of Europe and the Wild Black Cherry of America are classed by our best botanists as belonging to one genus, still neither will grow upon the other, Many similar in- stances might be named; in fact, to minutely describe all the variations which occur, or the different methods employed to reach the same results, would fill a volume by itself. Budding is usually performed in summer, just after the buds, or a portion of them, are fully developed on the young wood of the present season’s growth. The stock into which the buds are to be inserted must also be in a yimilar condition, so that the bark will part readily from the wood, as the bud or the bark attached to it is te BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 41 be inserted under the bark of the stock, and unless this ean be done the operation will usually fail. We have to depend upon assimilated or true sap to form the junction between the bud and stock, the same as we did with the layers to produce roots, for the operations are analogous ; only in budding, the alburnous matter forms a union with the same material in the stock, while in the layer it is emitted in the form of roots. HOW PERFORMED. In fig. 6, a, we have a bud which is to be transferred to the stock; a knife is inserted about one inch below it and passed upward, and brought out about a half inch above it, cutting out a piece of bark with a thin slice of wood, of Fig. 6. a form as shown by the circular line in the figure. We now make a cut across the stock, cutting just through the bark, and then another longitudinally downward about an inch long, as shown in fig. 7; then insert the lower end of 49 THE FOREST TREE OCULTURIST. the bark containing the bud under the bark of the stock at the point where the incisions meet, and press it down to its place. If the bark of the stock is firm and does not part eas- ily, the edges must be lifted slightly so as to allow the bud to pass under it freely. Ifthe portion with the bud does not pass completely under, then cut off the bark at the upper end even with the cross cut in the stock so that it shall fit it smoothly. In fig. 7 a bud is shown taken out after the upper end has been cut off to fit. And on this is also shown a portion of a leaf stem as it is usually left. When buds are taken from the young wood, the leaves are cut off, leaving only about a half inch of the lower portion of the stem. After the bud is inserted, it is then secured in its place by a ligature, which may be of bass bark, woolen yarn, soft twine, or some similar material. Fig. 8 shows a bud as it appears when tied in its place. The stock should not be over an inch in diameter, nor much less than one half inch, whether it be upon the main stem of a seedling or upon the branch of a large tree. After the bud has firmly united to the stock, which will usual- _ ly be in two or three weeks, the ligature should be loosened, or removed entirely. Fig: 6. The bud is not expected to push into growth until the next spring (nor is it desirable that it should, though it sometimes will), at which time the stock above the bud should be cut away and the bud allowed to grow undisturbed. If sprouts appear on the stock they should BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. be removed, so that all the strength may be given to the bud. The implement with which this operation is performed is called a budding-knife, and they are made of different forms, but the one in common use in the larger nurseries in this vicinity is similar in form to the one shown in fig. 9. It is here shown of full size, and may be made expressly for the purpose; or any small knife with a thin blade of good material may have the end rounded, and will answer very well unless a large number of trees are to be budded, then it will be well to get knives made expressly for the purpose. The rounded end is used to lift the bark of the stock instead of using a thin ivory handle, as seen on old-time budding knives. _ ANNULAR BUDDING. This differs from the preceding in two particulars: first, the bud is not inserted under the bark of the stock, but is fitted to it. A ring of bark passing completely around the stem upon which is a bud, is taken from a branch, and a similar ring is cut from the stock, and the bud and bark sre fitted into this and then carefully tied in its place. The branch from which the bud is taken, and the stock to which it is 45 44 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. affixed, should be of nearly the same-size. Fig. 10 shows a stock and the ring of bark, with bud ready to be clasped around it. Second, it differs from the other mode of budding because it may be performed as readily in spring, when the bark first begins to peel, as at any other time, and is just as certain at that time as in summer, The other modes of budding may also be performed in spring, but not with so much certainty of success as insummer. Annular budding is not a common practice, because it is too tedious; yet it is an excellent method of propagation where only a few trees are to. be worked. Some of our forest = trees, especially the Chestnut, are read- ily budded in this manner, GRAFTING. Grafting is a very common mode of propagating » trees, and it should be—but is not—understood by every farmer in the land; for there is not one among them all who has not occasion to graft some fruit or forest tree every year of his life. Cleft grafting is the most common mode, and is chiefly employed when the stock is considerably larger than the graft. It is generally done in spring, just before the leaves push, or, in other words, just as the buds begin to swell, and is performed as follows, BUDDING, GRAFTING, ETC. 45 The stock, whether it be a branch of a large tree or a young seedling of one or two inches in diameter, is cut off square across with a saw; it is then split with a chisel or knife, and the cleft kept open by a wedge until the graft (which is usually called a cion) is inserted ; the cion is usually made from a young branch of the last year’s growth, about three inches long, containing two or three buds. The lower end is made wedge-shape, the two sides being sloped about an inch and a half; it is then inserted in the cleft, care being taken that the outside of the wood of the cion and stock are just even, or, in other words, that the inside of the bark of each meets that of the other. The wedge employed to keep the cleft open is withdrawn when the cions are inserted. Two cions may be inserted in each stock, if it be more than an inch in diame- ter ; but only one should be allowed to grow, always reserving the best; after it is known that both have united. Fig. 11 shows a stock cleft grafted, also a cion ready for inser- tion. After the cions have been fixed in place, the end of the stock and down the cleft should be cov- ered with grafting-wax, to prevent the wind drying the exposed wood, as well as to exclude air and water and preventing a union taking place. SPLICE GRAFTING, This method is employed when the stock and cion are 46 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. nearly the same size, and is performed at the same time of year as the preceding. The stock is cut off with an upward slope, making the exposed wood perfectly smooth ; a cion of two to four inches long is cut off with the same slope as the stock, and fitted to it, being careful to have the wood and bark on one side fit exactly. It would be better if both did, but this can not be done unless the cion and stock are of an exact size, which it would be difficult to always have. - Some of our native . evergreen shrubs are the most beautiful of any known, and all are worthy of a place in grove or garden. By planting the smaller-growing evergreens among those of larger growth we can give a more pleasing effect to the group, as they will fill up the open spaces, tone down the tall and rugged, and give a solid and firm ap- pearance even to the small group or narrow belt. Many of those which I have named among the trees, suck as the Arborvites and Junipers, may be used in place of those that are naturally small shrubs, or for planting along- side of those of tall growth, and by keeping them close- pruned they will never exceed a few feet in height; but 174 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. among those we designate as shrubs there are some that produce such beautiful flowers, that to pass them by would be like passing diamonds and picking up iron when look- ing for ornaments. ANDROMEDA FLORIBUNDA.—Leaves lanceolate, pointed, about two inches long; flowers in dense racemes, pure white, somewhat urn-shape, about three eighths of an inch long; a beautiful, slow-growing evergreen shrub, native of the mountains of Virginia and southward. It is quite hardy in most of the Northern States, but is not very plen tiful in cultivation, probably owing to its slow growth and the difficulty experienced by our nurserymen in propagat- ing it. It may be grown from seed, the same as other evergreens, also from layers; but the best way is to grow it from green cuttings in a propagating-house or hot-beds. It is well worthy of more extensive cultivation. ANDROMEDA POLIFOLIA. — Leaves lanceolate, smooth, thick, with a revolute margin, white beneath ; a small shrub, seldom two feet high; grows in cold, wet soils; not so hand- some as A, floribunda. : Arcrostapuyitos Uva-ursa (Bearberry).—A low, trails ing shrub with thick evergreen leaves and red fruit, com- mon on rocky, barren hills in New. Jersey and westward ; propagated from seed, layers, or from green cuttings. Berserts Aquiirotium (Mahonia. Evergreen Bar- berry).—Leaves pinnate, with sharp prickles; berries blue, remaining on the bush until mid-winter; a very pretty shrub from Oregon; sueceeds well in the shade; propa. gated by layers or cuttings of the young wood. Buxus (.Bo:).—-Althougn we have no indigenous plants en ee, ee ss eth ~~ = 2 —— se EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 175 of this genus, still we have cultivated some of the species for so long a time that they have become almost or quite naturalized in many of the Eastern States. All the varie- ties are quite hardy, especially if grown where they are partially shaded. We often require small evergreen shrubs that will grow and thrive in the shade, and there is none more suitable for that purpose than the various kinds of Box. They can be had in great variety in almost any of the larger nurseries, and are propagated from cuttings of the ripe wood taken off in the autumn or early spring and planted in sandy soils, or from green cuttings placed under glass. CassANDRA CALYCULATA (Leather Leaf).— Leaves ob- long, fiat ; flowers white in the axils of the upper leaves ; a low, branching shrub producing an abundance of small flowers in early spring; common in bog grounds, but thrives in dry soils when cultivated ; propagated from cut- tings of the roots. It is also known under the name of Andromeda calyculata. Inex opaca (folly).—IWeaves oval, flat, with uneven margins, with small spines; flowers small, yellow ; berries bright red; a very handsome large shrub with beautiful glossy leaves; common in most of the Eastern States. Small plants can be usually found in the woods or in the open fields, and if carefully taken up can be made to grow very readily. A moist time in the early spring is the most suitable for transplanting. The Hollies all thrive well in the shade, and deserve more attention than they have heretofore received in this country. ‘They may aiso be grown from seed and from green cuttings. 176 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. Inrx Cassinze (Cassena. Yaupon).—Leaves lanceolate, oval, one to two inches long, not spiny, but simply serrate; native of Virginia and southward. The celebrated Yan- pon tea of the Carolinas is made of the leaves of this plant ; hardy in protected situations at the North. Ibex myrtirouta (Syeall-leaved Holly).—Leaves very narrow, and only an inch long, sharply serrate; flowers singly or in small clusters; Virginia and southward along the coast. ILex Danoon (a’ oon Holly).—Leaves oblong lance- olate, serrate, two to three inches long g, marghis mostly revolute; swamps of the Carolinas and southward. Ibex exasra ( Jnkberry).— Leaves oblong, slightly wedge-shaped, smooth, dark green; flowers small, white ; a low, slender shrub of no great beauty; common from Massachusetts to Florida along the coast; Prinos glabra of the old botanists. Katmia. (American Laurel.) The Kalmias are greatly admired in Europe, and ne gentleman’s garden would be thought to be complete with- out its group of American Laurels. But here, in its na- -tive country, it is neglected and passed by as a thing to be almost despised, simply because it is common in some localities. Occasionally we see a group in some gentle- man’s ground, but in most cases I fear that it is only found there because the owner imported it, supposing he was getting some foreign plant. This false taste, which admires a plant that comes from abroad more than one that is native, is, I fear, too prevalent among us. a EVERGREEN SHRUBS. _ 177 There is certainly no evergreen shrub more beautiful, ner one that deserves more attention, than our native broad-leaved Kalmia. It is said to be difficult to trans- plant, but I have not found it so even with plants twenty to thirty years old. To sclect plants from a thick wood for planting in an open garden is certainly not judicious, but the plants should be placed in a similar soil and situation as the one from which they were taken. It is also best to transplant just after a rain, and take them up with as much soil adhering to their roots as possible. If but few roots are saved, then it is best to eut them back severely when planted, as there is no evergreen shrub which produces new shoots more freely when cut back than the Laurel. The Laurels may be grown from seed, but they grow very . slowly, and it will requirc several years for the seedlings to become plants of any great size. Layers made of the young wood emit roots quite freely. Karma wLatiroiia (Mountain Lawirel).—Leaves oval- lanceolate, tapering to both enas, bright green; flowers piuk or white, bell-shaped in large terminal clusters, pro- duced in May and June; shrubs six to fifteen feet high; Maine to Georgia; grows in dry, rocky soils, also in poor sandy soils, although it grows more rapidly in that which is moist and deep; suitable for shady situations. It is — very common in the States of Pennsylvania and New Jersey. - Kaumra ancustiroxta (Sheep Laurel). Leaves oblong, small, light green above, pale green or whitish underneath ; flovrers deep rose, in small lateral clusters almost surround- ing the last scason’s growth; plant one to three feet high; Q* 178 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. branches slender; common on dry sandy soils in most of the Eastern States. The Laurels are supposed in many sections to be very poisonous to sheep, and wonderful stories are in circulation as to its deleterious effects on various kinds of animals. Probably the only truth there is in these tales is the fact, that sheep when not supplied with sufficient food will eat more of the laurel leaves than their stomachs will digest, and they become rolled up in a hard ball, and by remain- ing in the stomach cause irritation, and then inflamma- tion, which produces death. In such instances the Laurels, as well as other thick-leaved evergreens, become danger- ous, just the same as an old boot or a lump of hair or other similar substances which sheep and cattle will oceasion- ally eat. Katia etauca (Pale Laurel).—Leaves oblong, white, glaucous beneath, with somewhat revolute margins; flow- ers lilac purple, terminal, few ; a small shrub, seldom more than one foot high; grows in cold peat soils in Pennsylva- nia and New York. Katmia uirsuta (Rough Laurel). — Leaves oblong, three to four inches long, smooth; flowers rose color, pro- duced singly in the axils of the leaves on the new growth ‘of the season; native of the swamps of the South. Lepum Latirorium (Labrador Tea).—Leaves elliptical, oblong, entire, alternate, rusty woolly underneath, with 5) ievolute margins; flowers white, quite handsome, in ter- ninal clusters; small shrubs in cold peat bogs; blooms in June; New England and most of the Northern States, also in Canada. Another species, L. palustre, has long, er =e : ; . Se ee ny a ete clit att a a a EVERGREEN SHRUBS. 179 narrow leaves, and is found chiefly in the more northern portion of the Canadas. LoIsELEURIA PROCUMBENS (Alpine Azalea).—A small, trailing evergreen shrub with small white or rose-colored flowers and small opposite elliptical leaves; propagated from layers; found in the mountains of New Hampshire. LEIOPHYLLUM BUXxIFOLIUM (Sand Myrile). — Leaves about one half inch long, oval, smooth, glossy, very thick, mostly opposite ; flowers terminal, in clusters, small, white, not showy ; a spreading shrub, five to ten feet high. RHODODENDRON. The Rhododendron has been and is still admired by all civilized nations. Its flowers, foliage, and general habit command the attention of every beholder. Its name is derived from a Greek word signifying rose-tree, and there is none of the species to which the name is more appli- cable than to one of our native species—R. Cataw biense. Rhododendrons are found in many portions of the globe. Tartary, China, Siberia, Japan, Italy, Caucasus, and many other portions of the Eastern world, contribute different species to ornament the groves and gardens of civilized man, whether he dwells in city or country. Although the Rhododendron is so much admired at the present time, still there was a day when it was condemned in no measured terms, In the time of the ancient Romans it was supposed to be a very poisonous plant, and deadly to all kinds of animals, but a counter-poison to man, espe- cially against the bite of serpents. Even the honey which the bees gathered from the flowers was said to be poison- 180 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. ous; and the poor people of the regions where the Pontic Rhododendron was plentiful were much perplexed on the account of their tribute of honey being refused by the Roman government. The prejudice against this plant was prevalent as late as 1568, for Dr. Turner says that he did not wish it introduced into England, for although beautiful without, that within it was a ravenous wolf and a murderer. But the dreadful character given it did not prevent its introduction, and at the present time English gardens derive their greatest beauty from their groups of Rhododendrons. No garden is complete, nay, scarcely beautiful, without a few plants at least of this splendid evergreen shrub, Our indigenous species are equally as beautiful as those from foreign countries, and they can be had from the woods and fields of many portions of the Northern and Southern States. The same care is requisite in transplant- ing them as with the Kalmia, and no more. They are also easily grown from the seed, which ripens in autumn. Sow in frames the same as with other evergreens. Nur- serymen propagate them in various ways, such as cuttings, layers, grafting the scarce varieties on the more common, ete.) gn RHODODENDRON MAxIMUM ( Great Laurel).—Leaves obo- vate oblong, acute, smooth on both sides, deep green, six to ten inches long; flowers in terminal clusters, white or pale rose color, marked with greenish yellow, slightly spotted with red; shrubs six to twenty feet high; New England to Georgia, but more common along the banks of streams in Western New Jersey and Pennsylvania. ee, ee ee ee select only the most valuable of those trees mentioned in the preced- ing pages, noting their particular points of excellence. Acer saccnarinum (Hard Maple).—Tree of rather slow growth, but the wood very valuable for fuel. AcER pasycarpum (Silver Maple).—N ot equal in qual- ity to the last, but much more rapid in growth. CasTanra VESCcA (Chestnut).—A rapid grower, and very valuable for posts, stakes, and other similar purposes; very durable. Carya (Hickory).—The Hickories are all of rather slow growth, but valuable, while young, for hoop-poles. They also make the very best fuel when old. The.Carya tomen- tosa is probably the most profitable to grow for its timber, but is not always the toughest. : The Carya arpa (Shell-Bark) and Carya OLIV FOR- ' mis (Pecan-nut) produce the most valuable nuts. Fagus FrervGinea (Red Beech).—Tree of slow growth, but will thrive on shallow, stony soils; valuable, while young, for hoop poles, and excellent for fuel and many other purposes when mature. Fraxinus Americana (White Ash)—A moderately rapid grower, producing a tough and most valuable tim- ber. This is one of the most profitable trees to grow, re- quiring a deep, rich soil. 184 THE FOREST TREE CULTURIST. FRAXINUS SAMBUCIFOLIA ( Water Ash).—Of rapid growth, valuable for growing in low, wet soils. Larix communis (Huropean White Larch).—Succeeds well on dry, sandy soils, also on those that are moist and rich; of rapid growth; timber very valuable. Should be extensively cultivated near all of our large seaports. Popu us (Poplar).—There are two or three species of Poplar which might be profitably grown on the prairies for fuel, although it would not be of the best quality. The growth of all the Poplars is very rapid, and they are very readily propagated from cuttings. Quercus ALBA ( White Oak).—A slow grower, but the timber is exceedingly valuable at all ages. | QuERCUS OBTUSILOBA (Post Oak).—Similar to the last, but will thrive in poorer soils. Satix ALBA ( White Willow).—Particularly valuable for growing on the prairies. Growth very rapid; timber of fair quality for fuel. TAXxopIUM DISTICHUM ( Cypress).—Grows rapidly ; very durable timber, excellent for posts, stakes, or for fuel. Urtmus Americana (White £lm).— Valuable where ‘very tough timber is required ; tree of very rapid growth; succeeds best on deep, rich, alluvial soils. INDEX. Page Annular Budding.................. 43 Arborv 12 Cutting................. 32 MOCrMACCHATINUM 22... 000s cccene 74 MIO PHIUCTIM. os cec ccc acivascasvaces 76 0 or ene 75 Acer Pennsylvanicum.............. 5 POP MRSVCATPIIM .. 6... eres ecle ccs 15 MUINEEIIEIGO a's es cats cece sees qT PRMMPTROMCATIN) «<1. s aicdccsceccice ness G7 Acer Seiden ovics De Maee ant ah wae es q7 Ash-leaved’Maple.. ............ 47 Acer Pseudo-Platanus...... etn Bes 73 | REIS oso oS accel teenage tease 36 Fraxinus Americana .............. 96 | Larix Americana................0- 103 Fraxinus pubescens............... 06 | LARCH... so 5 co steno ach come een 103 Eraxipas Verdis). cases owes 96 | Liriodendron Tulipifera. ......... 105 Fraxinus sambucifolia, ........... 96 | Liquidamber Styracifiua........... 106 _ Fraxinus quadrangulata....... .... 97 | Large-toothed Aspen............. . 113 Fraxinus platycarpa pPistarslalettieo3 cls erts 97 IVE OSS Aes adieu Cass) ooo euneie 118 BOCHSY sana cary stu eenes 53-5 aataraeee 121 Gratting. naceuxnsacivy eke tas ove Ait) BAGG ab anes euk cosas ee euiee 126 Grafting Wax........cccccee. me 4b Dautellit cc aneoeeriaan PP a Pers 2 1 Gathering Seeds,...............0- -. 26 | Leafy-coned Fir......-......+++- oe 40u Growing ‘trom Cuttings........+... 30 | Ledum latifolium............++-+.- 178 Gteen Ach cco. .x inne daeati ee, 06°) Labrador Peas. cass¢ esses