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GOYERMENT EXPlORmG EXPEDITION;

COMMANDED BY

CAPTAIlSr CHARLES WILKES,

ISLAJ^D OF MADEIRA CAPE YERD ISLAND BRAZIL COAST

OF PATAGONIA CHILI PERU PAHMATO GROUP SOCI-
ETY ISLANDS — NAVIGATOR GROUP AUSTRALIA — AN-
TARCTIC CONTINENT NEW ZEALAisTD FRIEND-
LY ISLANDS FEJEE GROUP SANDWICH

ISLANDS NORTHWEST COAST OF AME-
RICA— OREGON — CALIFORNIA

EAST INDIES ST. HELENA,

ETC., ETC.

IN ONE VOLUME.

LIEUT. GEO. M. COLV()C,OKESS^S, jQ. S. .Navy,

A?? OFFIC^ER OF THE^isSEIUTION. '*'

FIFTH 'liDITsdN^

l^EW YORK:
J. M. FAIR CHILD & CO.,

109 NASSAU-STPvEET.
185 5.

sl()13

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the )'ear 1852, by

COR x\ IS II, LAMPORT & CO.,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Soiithern

District of New York.

Stereotyped by Vixcent Dill, Jr.,
No. 29 BeekiTian-st., N Y

PREFACE

It may be proper to observe, as affording some guaran-
tee for the correctness of tlie information contained in this
Volume, that it has been compiled from a Jom'nal, or a
Diary, which the author kept in obedience to a " General
Order" from the JSTavy Department, and that the Journal
in question was frequently submitted to the Commander-
in-Chief of the Expedition for his inspection and perusal.

The work will be found to embrace incidents occurring
on board the ship, Descriptions of Natural Scenery, Man-
ners and Customs, Government, Religion, and Commerce.

By adopting a more diffusive style, I might have exceeded
my present limits ; instead of one such volume I might
have produced two or three, but the general reader would
have gained nothing by this, his main object being to
gather information, and the more succinctly it is conveyed
to him the more rapidly he will acquire it, and more easily
retain it. In short, I have endeavored to furnish a work
which should have the merit of being instructive and en-
tertaining, concise and cheap ; and I hope that the present
volume will be found to possess all these advantages.

G. M. C.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I

Departure from Norfolk — Weather — Orders to the "Relief" to proceed to
Rio Janeiro — Orders for the remainder of the vessels to rendezvous at
Funchal — St. Michael's Island — Vast Fields of Sea Weed — Impression
they made on Columbus's men — Arrival at Madeira — Beautiful Scenery —
General Description of the Island — Manufactures — Personal appearance
of the Peasantry — Their dress and habitations — Culture of the Grape —
Description of Funchal — Monks unpopular with the present Government
— Nunneries — The celebrated recluse, Maria Clementina — How the Nuns
support themselves — Cheapness of labor — Public Amusements — Portu-
guese etiquette previous to dancing — Beauty of the Environs — Ride to the
famous Cural — Catholic Burial Ground — Story of Robert Machim and
Anna D'Arfet,

CHAPTER II.

Departure for the Cape de Verde Islands — Phosphorescence of the Ocean —
Arrival at St. Jago — Description of the Capital — Passage to Brazil —
Arrival at Rio Janeiro — The United States Frigate " Independence" —
Observations on Rio Janeiro and its Commerce with the United States —
Passage to Terra del Fuego — The enemies of the flying-fish — Arrival at
Good Success and Relief Bays — Orange Harbor — Description of the
Country in its vicinity — General Observations on the Natives of Terra del
Fuego — Departui'e for Valparaiso — A terrific storm off Noir Island — Loss
of all our Anchors and Cables, and narrow escape from Shipwreck —
Arrival at Valparaiso — Obliged to borrow an anchor from H. B. M. Ship
" Preaident."

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

General Description of Chili — Climate — Earthquakes — Valparaiso and its
Commerce — Observations on the Inhabitants — Amusements — Religion —
Education — The Army and Navy — Newspapers — President Prieto's Visit
to Valparaiso — His reception by the citizens — Arrival of the " Peacock,"
" Vincennes," and " Porpoise" — Splendid ball given by the citizens of Val-
paraiso in honor of the Victory of Tungai.

CHAPTER IV.

Arrival at Callao Harbor — Chilian Squadron, and famous Fortress — Ob-
servations on the City — Visits to Lima — Description of the peculiar
dress of the Liminian Ladies — The Theatre — Vice President Lafuente —
The country in possession of the Chilians — Deplorable state of affairs —
The " Relief" ordered to the United States — Fears are entertained for the
safety of the Schooner " Sea Gull" — Lieutenant Craven goes in search
of her.

CHAPTER V.

Departure for Society Islands — Appearance of the Coral Islands — How they
are formed — The Natives of Calermont de Tonerre refuse to let Captain
"Wilkes land — Obliged to fire blank cartridges at them — Their personal ap-
pearance— Alarm Fires during the night — Arrival at the Island of Aurora
— Remarks on its Inhabitants.

CHAPTER VL

Arrival at Tahati — General Description of the Island — The Gorernor of
Matavi comes on board to engage the washing of the oflScers — His per-
sonal appearance — A stroll in the direction of Papeite — Kind treatment
received from the Natives — The Women at Point Venus — Encomiums
passed on them by voyagers — Send the Seamen to the Native Chapel to
attend Divine Service — Description of the Chapel — Rev. Mr. Wilson, the
only sui'vivor of the first Missionaries — Female passion for Singing — The
Squadron leave for Papiete — Objections to its Harbor — Description of
the Tahitian Flag — Received a Present from the Queen — A Commercial
Treaty — A Native Dance on board the ship — The King-consort break-
fasts with Captain Hudson — Character of the Queeu— Influence of Mr
Pritchard.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

P^Bcription of tlie I^Tavigator Islands — An American citizen murdered by a
JSTative — Apprehension of the Murderer — Sentenced by Captain Hudson to
be hung — The Chiefs object to have the sentence carried into execution
on shore — The Criminal is taken away and put on Wallis' Island — The
Christian and Devil Parties — Manners and Customs — Dej)arture of the
Squadron for Australia — Arrival in Sydney during the night — Remarks of
the Press

CHAPTER VIII.

Discovery and Settlement of Australia, derived from Chambers's Papers.

CHAPTER IX.

Commercial and Political Greatness of New South Wales — Character of
the Population — Complaints against the Mother Country — Flourishing Con-
dition of Sydney — Principal Articles of Export — Interior of the country —
Minerals — Several kinds of animated creatures totally unlike those found
elsewhere — Observation on the Aboriginal Inhabitants.

CHAPTER X.

Departure for the South Pole — Kind treatment experienced by us at Sydney
— Arrangements for keeping the ship comfortable — Appearance of Ice-
bergs— A new Continent discovered by the Expedition — Eighty Ice
Islands in sight at once — Fired at a Sea Elephant — Captured a King Pen-
guin— His appearance — Aurora Australis — State of the Weather — Sick-
ness among the crew — Filled the Water Tanks with Ice — Left Orders on
a Berg for the " Peacock" — Return to Sydney — French Exploring Squad-
ion.

CHAPTER XT.

A.iTival at New Zealand — Observations on the Island, and its Inhabitants —
The Chiefs make a Cession of their Lands, Authority and Persons to
Queen Victoria — Report of the English bribing the Chiefs — Pomare Visits
the Ship — His personal appearance, and private character — Arrival of
the " Porpoise" from her Southern Cruise.

CHAPTER XII.

Passage from New Zealand to Tonga Idands — Communicate with au
American Whale Ship. Pass a Water Spout — Sail through a large field
of Sperm Whale feed — Anchor at Nookualofa — Visited by the Mis-

CONTENTS.

sionaries — Christian and Heathen Parties at "War with each other —
Arrival of a War Canoe filled with Christian Warriors — Eight Heathens
or Devils killed in a skirmish — Visited by severel Heathen Chiefs —
Their Complaints against the Christians — Description of Nookualofa
Town — Manufacture of Tapa — Visits of the two Kings, Josiah and
George, at the Observatory — An American Whale Ship Wrecked — Pre-
parations for going to Sea — Pilot refuses to take us out of the Harbor —
Proceed to Sea — Productions and Climate of Tonga Island — Intercourse
with the Fejee Group — Manners — Customs— Government — Religion —
Education — Missionaries

CHAPTER XIII.

Arrival at the Fejee Islands — Description of Levuka Harbor — Visit from
its Head Chief — Visited the Shore — Beautiful Scenery — Witness a
Native Female Dance — The Girls beg from us some Paint — King Toanoa
arrives from Ambou — His reception — The King and his Chiefs visit the
Ship — His alarm at the sound of the guns — He spends on board all the
following day — His return to Ambou — Receive a visit from his Queen
and eldest Son — The cruel character of the latter — The Peacock cap-
tures the Chief Vendovi — An account of his attack on the " Charles Dag-
gett"— Send officers and men to the Observatory to protect it against
a night attack from the Natives — Taboo taken off the Cocoanut trees —
Sail for Saver Bay — Hot Springs in its vicinity — Superstition of the
Natives — Sail for Sandal Wood Bay — Broils between two brothers —
Receive from the " Peacock" the prisoner Vendovi — The Vincennes' 1st
Cutter captured by the Natives — Send an Expedition to punish them and
recover the Boat — Mr. Baxter of the brig " Leonidas" dies from an ex-
plosion— Sail for Matawata Bay — Description of the Town — The King's
Wives — Our Surveying Signals are stolen by the Natives — The King is
Compelled to restore them — Two of our officers are massacred by the
Inhabitants of Malolo — Destruction of their Town, and other punishment
inflicted on them — Tribute to the Dead by the Chaplain of the Expe-
dition— Meeting of Officers for the purpose of subscribing towards the
erection of a Monument in the Cemetery at Mount Auburn — Bid adieu to
the Fejee Islands.

CHAPTER XIV

Extent of the Fejee Group — Soil and Productions — Description of the
Inhabitants — How they wear their Hair — Power of the Chiefs over the
common people — Women treated as Slaves — How they carry Messages

CONTENTS. 9

— Copiousness of tbe Language — Circumcision — Polygamy — Cannibal
propensities — Courtship — Wives strangled and buried with their bus-
bands — The Sick killed by their relatives — Form of Government — Reli-
gion— Their account of the Origin of Races — Their knowledge of Medicine
— Their Weapons — Their Manufactures — Foreign Trade — Value of Whale's
Teeth, &c.

CHAPTER XV.

Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Description of Honolulu — Foreign
Residents — American Enterprise — Personal appearance of the Natives
— The Market — Two Natives hung for poisoning a Woman — Witness an
Examination of YOO Native Children at Mr. Bingham's Church — Theu'
progress and natural abilities — A visit to the famous Pali — Remarks
thereon — Horse-racing a famous amusement of the Women — My horse
takes fright — Obliged to go on board the Ship — Sail for Hawaii — Our
Success in our Scientific Pursuits while at Oahoo — Immense height of the
Mountains of Hawaii — Wrestling Match on the Forecastle between two
Natives — Arrival at Hilo — A Present from tbe King's Agent — His personal
appearance and behavior.

CHAPTER XVI

Surpassing beauty of tbe Country about Hilo — The Missionaries — Send
the Scientific Instruments on Shore — Excursion to tbe top of Mauna
Loa — Refusal of Natives, employed to carry the Instruments and Provi-
sions, to proceed — Scarcity of Wood and Water — Objects of the Expedition
— I visit tbe Shore — Mr. Alden and fifty Seamen go to the assistance of tbe
Mauna Loa party — Haul tbe Seine — Tbe Head-man of Hilo and family,
and the King's Agent and bis Lady, dine in the Ward-room — How the La-
dies dress, &c., &o.

CHAPTER XVII.

My Visit to the Great Volcano — Tbe Mauna Loa Party accomplish its
object, and tbe " Stars and Stripes," wave upwards of a week over tbe
top of one of the highest mountains in the world — Character of tbe Moun-
tain— Sufferings of our people from the excessive Cold, and Mountain Sick-
ness— Sail for Maui — Pass tbe Island Raloolawe — Arrival at Labaina —
— Appearance of tbe Surrounding Conutry — Tbe King of tbe Group visits
the Ship — His personal appearance and education — My visit to tbe Town —
Beautiful Landscape — The High School — Native Children amusing them-
selves in the Surf — Apparent danger of the Amusement — Boats employed

10 CONTENTS.

Sui'yeying the Harbor — Dangerous situation of Mr, May and Crew — Res-
cued by Lieutenant Budd — The King's Schooner assists us in our Surveying
Duties — Return to Oahoo to fill up with Provisions — Receive an Official
Visit from the Governor of the Island — His connection with the Royal
Family.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Sail for the Northwest Coast of America — Description of the Villula, or
"little man-of-war" — Arrive o£fthe Columbia River — Owing to bad weather
do not venture to enter — Steer for Puget Sound — Narrow escape from
Shipwreck — Loss of a Russian vessel near the same spot — Savage Charac-
ter of the Natives — Enter Puget Sound — Boarded by two Canoes — De-
scription of the Indians living along the Shores — Arrival at Nisqually —
Sm-vey Hood's Canal — Celebration of the 4th of July on Shore — Serious
Accident — Receive a visit from Dr. McLaughlin, Chief I^actor and Governor
of the Hudson Bay Company — Lieutenant Johnson returns from an excur-
sion in the Interior.

CHAPTER XIX

Exploration and Survey of Chiekelees River — Difficulties with the Indians at
Grey's Harbor — Scarcity' of Provisions — Obliged to subsist on dead fish
picked up on the beach — Arrival of Lieut. De Haven with provisions — He
communicates to us the loss of the " Peacock" — Arrival at Astoria — Kind-
ness of ]Mi*. Birnie — Character of the Indian Tribes about Astoria — Receive
orders from Captain "Wilkes to join him at Vancouver — Indian Burial
Grounds — Arrival at Vancouver — Observations on the Columbia River —
Received orders to join the Overland Expedition to California — Sketch of a
Life at Vancouver.

CHAPTER XX

Early History of Oregon, derived from the most reliable authorities — Cook —
Vancouver — McKenzie — Twiss — Greenhow.

CHAPTER XXI

Leave Vancouver to join the Overland Party to California, encamped, on the
Banks of the Willamette River — Rev. Mr. Cone, on bis way to Vancouver
—His account of our party — Five Americans building a Schooner— «
Their account of the Country — The Falls^-Indian Superstition — Salmon
Fishery — Observations on the Scenery and Navigation of the River —

CONTENTS. n

Breakfast with the celebrated Mr. McKoy — His Wheat Crop — Canadian
Settlement — American Settlement — Observations on the Soil and Produce
of the Willamette Valley — Methodist Mission — Divine Service at Mr. Les-
lie's residence — Break up the Camp — Drawbacks — Mr. Turner's place,
and his present to the party — Loss of some of our Horses — A visit to a party
of Calipuya Indians — Mr. Emmons leaves for Fort Umpquoa — Unfavor-
able report regarding the Indians — Mr. Emmons' return to the Camp — Put
the Arms in the best fighting condition— Cross the IS'orth Fork of the Ump-
quoa River — Rumors that the Indians are preparing to dispute our passage
— Indian Women gathering Roots — Indian Burial Ground — Cross the
Umpquoa Mountains — Character of the Country — Klamet Indians — Pass
Tootootutuas River — Sickness — Expected Attack from the Shaste Indians
— Variety of Game — Indian Mode of killing the Antelope — Passage over
the Shaste Range — Klamet Valley — Ford the Klamet River — Character
of the Indians of this Region — Reach the Head of the Sacramento — Arch-
ery of the Indians — Sacramento Valley — Klinka Tribe of Indians — Prairie
Butes — Feather River — Captain Sutter's place — Proceed to San Francisco
— Brief History of Captain Sutter — His kind treatment of our party —
Extent and Character of the Sacramento Valley — San Francisco — Bay at
the time of our visit, and after the Discovery of Gold,

CHAPTER XXII
General Observations on California.

CHAPTER XXIII.
Conquest of California by the United Statea

CHAPTER XXIV.

Ordered to the brig " Oregon" — Sail for the Sandwich Islands — A man killed
on board the " Vincennes" — Leave Honolulu for the East Indies — -Arrival
at Singapore — Description of the City — Opium vending and its effects upon
the population — Beautiful rides about the City — A Chinese Temple — A
Mohammedan Mosque — Malay Character — The Parsees — Their language,
wealth, and religion — Observations on Commerce "and Currency — Sail
for the Island of St. Helena.

12 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXV.

A-spect of St. Helena — Discovery and Settlement of the Island — Fortifica-
tions— Climate — Population — Observations on Jamestown — Visit to Na-
poleon's Tomb, and Longwood — Interesting particulars relating to the
Captivity of the fallen Emperoz' — His Death and Funeral — Arrival of the
Frigate " Belle Poule" to take away his mortal remains — Exhumation of
the Body — Its embarkation — Departui'e of the Frigate for France — Sail
from St. Helena — Arrival at Rio Janeiro — Departure for, and arrival at
New York.

CHAPTEK I.

FROM NORFOLK TO MADEIRA.

At 3 o'clock, P. M., August 18tli, (1838,) the Yincennes
made the signal to get under-weigh, and in obedience to the
same we weighed anchor in company with the rest of the
squadron, namely, " Yincennes," " Peacock," " Eelief,"
and the two schooners " Sea Gull" and " Flying Pish." At
5 P. M. we came-to off Fort Monroe, on account of its fall-
ing calm, and of the tide making against us ; but at 9.20 the
breeze sprung up, and we again hove-up the anchor, and
stood out to sea. At 4.15 P. M., on the 19th, we discharged
the pilot, and took our departure. The day was beautiful,
the sea smooth, the breeze favoring, and the vessels sailed
fmely. Indeed, we could not possibly have commenced
our cruise under more auspicious circumstances.

The day following we received orders, in case of separa-
tion, to rendezvous at Funchal, the principal port of Ma-
deira.

On the 24th, the " Belief" was ordered to proceed to
Rio Janeiro, in consequence of not being able to keep up
with the rest of the squadron.

At dawn on the 13th of September we descried the island
of St. Michael, the first land we had seen since bidding adieu
to our own shores. This island is of a volcanic origin ; its
conical-shaped mountains, and detached basaltic rocks,

14 PASSAGE TO MADEIRA.

wliicli line its sliores, prove this most conclusively. Tht
nortliern side, along wliicli we sailed for some time, looked
singularly beautiful and romantic. It is one of the Azores,"'^
or Western Islands, and belongs to the crown of Portugal.

The next object which engrossed our attention was the
immense fields of sea weed, so often met with to the west of
the group of islands just mentioned. Two great banks of
this singular stringy-looking weed are said to occur in the
Atlantic ocean. One of them is to the west of the merid-
ian of Fayal, one of the Azores ; but the location of the
other has not been correctly ascertained. According to
Burnet, it vegetates within forty degrees of latitude on each
side of the equator. It was known to the Phoenicians as the
Weedy-Sea, and the Spaniards call it Mar de Zaragossa. It
is related of Columbus, that the sailors who attended him
on his first voyage of discovery to America, on passing
through these fields of sea-weed, urged him to proceed no
further on the voyage, but to return home again, as they
superstitiously believed that this hindrance was designed
by God to put a stop to his wild schemes. This floating
fucus is supposed to be detached by storms from the sub-
marine rocks on which it is said to grow ; but that which
we fished up presented all the appearance of belonging to
a healthy growing plant, nor could I detect any roots
which might have induced me to suppose that it had been
once attached to the rocky bottom of the ocean.

On the morning of the 18th of September, we anchored
off the city of Funchal, in twenty-five fathoms water. The

*The Azores, or Western Islands, a group of nine islands in the Atlantic, between 25°
and 30° -west longitude and 37° and 40° north latitude, were discovered in 1439, by Van-
derberg, a merchant of Bruges, and received their name from the number of hawks found
among them. The climate is favorable to human health, and the soil is in general fertile,
abounding in corn, grapes, oranges, lemons, and other fruits, and feeding many cattle, hog?
and sheep.

MADEIRA.

" Yincennes" and " Sea Gull" came in about sunset, and
the " Flying Fish" an hour or two later. The " Peacock"
did not arrive until about 10 A. M. next day.

Shortly after coming to anchor we were boarded by the
health-officer, who, being assured that we had no sickness
on board, granted us permission to communicate with the
shore.

"We had heard much about the beauties of Madeira, and
now that we had it before our eyes, we were not disap-
pointed ; my own expectations were indeed more than
realized. Valleys and hills, the former adorned with villas,
groves, cottages, churches, and convents, the latter covered
to their summits with verdure, presented themselves to our
view in every direction. The climate is said to be among
the finest in the world. Properly speaking, there is no
winter, and the greatest heat in the summer is never so
great as with us. The usual height of the mercury is 67°,
and in the greatest extremes seldom sinks or rises 6° above
the medium, and hence the excellent health so generally
enjoyed by its inhabitants. Another remarkable fact about
Madeira is, that it is free from the annoyances and incon-
veniences that so commonly infest warm climates. There
are no snakes or reptiles of any sort. Flowers grow wild
along the sides of the roads, and in the fields. Water is
abundant, and of an excellent quality ; even the streams at
the bottom of the ravines, fed by the mountain dews, are
never dry in the hottest season, and the height from which
they descend enables the inhabitants to turn their course
. in any direction they please, which accounts for the culti-
vated parts of the island being so well irrigated.

The chief production of Madeira is the grape,"^ and that

*" The vine was introduced in 1425, from the island of Candia; but it vas not ac-
tively cultivated till the early part of the sixteenth century. It is propagated from

16 MADEIEA.

wtLich grows near the sea-sliore is said to make the best
wine. The quantity exported last year amounted to 8,450
pipes, of which about 4,000 pipes, vahied at $793,000, went
to the United States. There is a great difference in the spots
where the vine grows, and some estates produced much bet-
ter quality of wine than others, though the kind of grape
cultivated is the same. After the juice is expressed it is put
into casks, undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified
with isinglass or gypsum, and about three gallons of brandy
to a pipe of wine is added. The common Madeira is ob-
tained from a mixture of Yerdelho, Bual, and J^egro Molle
grapes ; the Malmsey and Sercial, from grapes of the same
name.

The principal manufactures of Madeira are coarse linen,
baskets, hats and bonnets, boots and shoes. The latter arti-
cle is exported in considerable quantity to the East and
West Indies ; they are generally well made, but they do not
stand wet weather as well as the American shoes, in conse-
quence of the leather not being properly tanned.

The revenue of the island is stated to be about 210,000
dollars per annum. That portion which is derived from the
customs is about one half, or about 110,000 dollars. The
remainder is from taxes and tithes. The population is esti-
mated at 115,000. The lower classes are industrious, sober,

cuttings, planted at a depth of from three to six feet and there is generally no produce for
the first three years. During the second spring they are trained along a net--work of
canes (which is extensively grown in low, moist situations, for that purpose), and sup-
ported by stakes, about three or four feet from the ground. The inferior descriptions oi
wine, after being clarified, are subjected, in stoves, to a temperature of 140* to IGO^ Fahr.
for six months, by which process of forcing they assume an apparent age, but, at the same
time, a dry and smoky flavor, which can never be entirely eradicated. This class of wines
is shipped annually, in large quantities, to Hamburgh, where it undergoes a process which
changes its character to that of Hock, under which name a large portion of it finds its
way into the English and American markets. The wines of Madeira, with the exception
of Tinta, should be kept in cellars of a moderate and equable temperature, and should be
placed, for a short period, at a moderate distance from the fire before decanted, and the
decanter heated in like manner. By One who resided Fifteen Years on the Island.

MADEIRA. l?

and honest. They are supposed to be a mixture of Moors,
Negroes, and Portuguese. Dark hair, eyes, and complexion
are most common. The character of the features is usually
a broad face, high cheek-bones, full lips, and good teeth.
The men are very muscular, about the middle height, very
erect, strongly built, and capable of enduring great fatigue.
The women are not good looking, which is no doubt owing,
in part, to the hard labor required of them.

The men wear loose trowsers, descending to the knee,
made of coarse linen cloth manufactured on the island, a
shirt, and a jacket of gaudy color. They sometimes wear
boots or shoes made of white leather, but generally they
go without either.

The women are dressed in bodices, with short petticoats
of a variety of colors. Both sexes wear a blue cloth cap
of very small dimensions, tied under the chin.

The houses of the peasantry are little better than huts ;
they are constructed of stone, one story high, with a roof
rising on all sides to a central pole — are thatched with straw,
and beneath the same roof are included the parlor, kitchen,
and sleeping-room, without any intervening partitions.
The only aperture for light or smoke is the door. Perhaps
there is no need for chimneys, as fire is seldom required,
and the cooking is usually done out in the open air.

Funchal is the capital of the island. It is built along the
margin of a small bay, the houses in some parts rising one
above the other on steep hills, and contains above 20,000
inhabitants, of which 500 are foreign residents. It is inter-
sected by three rivers, which are kept in their course
by strong thick walls, from ten to thirty feet in heiglit.
Most of these streams have pleasant walks along their raised
banks, shaded with large overhanging plane-trees, whose
branches almost meet over the centre of the channel. The

18 MADEIRA.

cathedral has been recently repaired, and makes a fine dis-
play ; its steeple is the most conspicuous of any in the town.

The other public buildings are hardly deserving of no-
tice. The Governor's palace is situated near the water,
and has a commanding view of the harbor, but its archi-
tecture is clumsy and tasteless. A few yards from the
cathedral is the Praca Constituicas, a very pleasant prome-
nade, shaded by three or four rows of trees, and provided
with benches for the repose of the weary. The military
band usually plays here during the afternoon of Sundays,
and " festas." The native inhabitants then appear in all
their finery, listening to the airs discoursed by the band.
Beyond the Plaza is the market-place, which is very clean,
and regularly laid out in streets and stalls.

Many of the convents are large and beautifully located,
but in consequence of their being neglected by the present
government, they have in a great measure become deserted,
and their walls are crumbling down piecemeal. The monks
are out of favor with the Queen's "government ; the zeal
with which they supported the claims of Don Miguel to
the throne of Portugal has not been forgotten, and conse-
rjuently they are looked upon with a suspicious eye, both
by the government and the people. During the short reign
of the Constitutional Government in Madeira, the nuna
were permitted to leave their convents, and a few availed
themselves for a time of the privilege, but returned again
to their cloisters, after a short enjoyment of the world's
gayety. The celebrated Maria Clementina, to whose his-
tory Coleridge has imparted such interest, still lives in the
convent of St. Clara, among some forty of her sisterhood.
She is now somewhat advanced in life, and few, if any,
traces remain of that beauty which the poet so warmly
described. These nuns support themselves chiefly by the

MADEIRA. 19

manufacture and sale of artificial flowers and fruits, with
a few other ornamental productions. The former are made
of djed feathers and the fruit of wax, and are prized by
many visitors as aff'ording a pleasing remembrance of their
sojourn in the island.

The dwellings are from one to two stories high, and the
apartments are large and well lighted, but owing to the
material of which they are constructed — stone, and the iron-
grated windows of the ground-floor — they have a gloomy,
cheerless aspect. Nearly every house has a kind of turret
on the top, from which can be had a fine view of the harbor.
The principal object of these is, for the inhabitants to look
out for vessels ; the first thing to be done in the morning
being to mount the turret to see if any strange vessel had
arrived in the course of the night.

The streets are narrow, and in some parts very steep, but
they are kept clean. In the principal streets are some very
good stores, kept by Englishmen, who are by far the most
numerous of the foreigners that reside on the island.

The market is very good. Beef of good quality can be
had for eight cents per lb. ; fowls for thirty-seven cents ;
eggs for eight cents per dozen ; vegetables and fruits of
every description are also abundant. Clothing is as cheap
as with us, and boots and shoes considerably cheaper ; and
I may here add, that this is the case with everything which
is made on the island, and is to be attributed to the cheap-
ness of labor, the highest wages commanded by mechanics
not exceeding twelve dollars per month.

In passing through the streets of Funchal, you meet with
many of the country people, who have come either to trade
or to obtain employment. They are a hardy, athletic race,
and to all appearance remarkably j)olite and kind-hearted.
Whenever we met them, they invariably saluted us. They

20 MADEIRA.

are extensively employed about the town as carriers, and a
stranger is at times apt to be struck with the novel charac-
ter of their load ; when at a distance, he sees them bearing
on their shoulders what he supposes to be a live sheep, but
on nearer approach he discovers that they are only the skins
of that animal filled with wine. These skins are preserved
as entire as possible, even the legs being retained ; they
are kept steady by a band which passes oTer the forehead
and supports a considerable part of the weight. Twenty
gallons is considered an ordinary load, and they will carry
it to any part of the city for a pistareen.

There are few public amusements to be found in Funchal,
and strangers very soon complain of monotony. There is no
theatre, no cafe, no resort, in fact, but the billiard-table.
The members of the Portuguese Club have a ball, once a
month during the season, and very agreeable and pleasing
re-unions they are. According to Portuguese etiquette,
previous to the commencement of dancing, the ladies sit
formally at one end of the room, apart from the gentlemen,
audit is customary at two or three o'clock in the morning,
to hand round cups containing hot chicken broth. The
ball seldom breaks up before daylight.

Yisiting among the ladies of Funchal is performed in
Palanquins, and a kind of vehicle lately introduced, resem-
bling one of our ISTew England sleighs. The latter is gen-
erally drawn by oxen, and seems to answer better than a
wheel vehicle, on account of the steepness and narrowness
of the streets.

The rides about Funchal are delightful ; the roads are good,
and lined on eitherhand with vineyards, mingled with groves
of the orange and lemon tree. The most agreeable way of
taking these rides is on horseback, horses being plentiful and
generally well broken. Their owners invariably accompany

MADEIRA. 21

them, and it is amusing to see how they manage to keep up
when the animal is made by the rider to gallop or run ;
they seize the tail by both hands — thus making the horse
drag them after him ; and what seems singular is, the ani-
mal never gets frightened, and if not urged on by the
rider, will soon come to a halt.

Every one who visits Madeira should certainly ride out
to the Cural." The road leading to it is one of the most
interesting on the Island. It ascends gradually, and every
now and then you are presented with a magnificent view
of Funchal, and its bay. After riding some hours you
reach a mount of considerable altitude ; on ascending this
you find yourself on the edge of the Cural, where the whole
scene suddenly bursts upon your view, and its beauty and
grandeur fill you with wonder and astonishment.

" Earth has nothicg to show more grand ;
Dull would be the soul who could pass by
A sight so touching in its majesty."

In the descent, the road winds along the sides of the
precipice, and at every turn new and striking views are
brought out, almost surpassing in grandeur the first.
When about five hundred feet from the bottom, the path
becomes less precipitous, and the country on either side is
in a high state of cultivation and sprinkled with cottages,
chapels, and convents.

Few places of sepulture can boast a more delightful
prospect than the burying-ground of Funchal. Whilst the
dark cypress groves give a saddening efiect to the place
itself, in harmony w^ith its object, the surrounding scenery

* The Cural is supposed to have teen a Crater.

22 a:nna d'arfet.

presents some of the finest views in the neighborhood of
the town. The most prominent object in the distance is
the Peak Fort, the principal fortress in Madeira. Its com-
manding position renders it a picturesque object from
many points of view.

The following story relating to the discovery of Madeira,
and narrated by a historian may be interesting to the
reader.

" Anna D'Arfet, the heroine of the tale, was a lady of
high family and distinguished beauty. She was beloved by
Robert Machim, an English gentleman of great merit, but
her inferior in rank and wealth ; the attachment, though
mutual, was not countenanced by the proud family of
D'Arfet, and finding her insensible to their admonitions, a
warrant was procured from the King, Edward HI., by
which Machim was arrested and cast into prison, she being
in the meantime compelled to ally herself with one more
her equal in station. Machim on his release, determined
to spare no means to become possessed of the object of his
afi'ections, and by the assistance of a friend, who intro-
duced himself to his mistress in the character of a groom,
succeeded in efi'ecting her escape from a castle near Bris-
tol, where her husband resided. Guided by their trusty
friend, tliey embarked in a vessel bound for France ; but
in crossing the channel they were driven out of their course
by a fearful storm. For thirteen days they were tossed
about in the open ocean, where, being without a ]3ilot, they
knew not in what direction to steer. At length a faint
haze in the horizon indicated their aj^proach to land, and
soon, to their infinite joy, they saw before them a beautiful
and richly wooded island. Machim and his mistress, ac-
companied by some friends, landed under the shade of a

23

venerable cedar, where they found a temporary shelter,
there trusting to the genial climate and enchanting scenery,
Machim hoped to succeed in administering consolation to
the conscience-stricken Anna, but within a day or two
of their arrival another storm arose, more terrible than
the last, which drove their unfortunate vessel out to sea.
Abandoned to despair, the beautiful Anna D'Arfet could
not sustain this blow ; she died in the arms of her lover
three days after the disappearance of the vessel, and was
buried by Machim under the tree which had afforded them
shelter. The spirit of Machim now gave way. He sur-
vived his mistress but a short time, and was buried at her
side by his companions. With his dying breath he en-
treated them to place an inscription upon their graves re-
cording the fact, and requesting that, should the spot be
ever visited by Christians, they would there erect a church..
The survivors having punctually followed the last direc-
tions of their friend, embarked again in the boat which
had brought them from their vessel, with the intention of
returning to England. Borne to the coast of Morocco,
they were captured by the Moors and cast into prison.
They narrated their story to some fellow captives, amongst
whom was the pilot Morales, who, returning from capti-
vity, related the story to Zargo, and an ex]3edition was soon
after sent out by the Portuguese government to take for-
mal possession of the island.

" The small church now standing near by the cedar tree
is said to have been the one erected in compliance with
this request. Bowles in his ' Spirit of Discovery,' gives
the following poetical version of the inscription, supposed
to have been written by Machim on the grave of Anna
D'Arfet:

JH ANNA d'aKFET.

' O'er my poor Anna's lowly grave,

No dirge shall sound, no knell shall ring,

But angels, as the high pines wave,
Their half-sad Miserere sing.

'ITo flowers of transient bloom at eve
The maidens of the turf shall strew,

Nor sigh, as the sad spot they leave.
Sweets to the sweet, a long adieu.' "

FKOM MADEIKA TO VALPARAISO, CIIILI. 25

CHAPTEE II.

FKOM MADEEIA TO VALPARAISO, CHILI.

On the SSth we took our departure and «tood to the
southward.

On the 6th at sunset, being near St. Jago, we liove-to,
and continued so until next morning. The early part of
the night was quite cloudy, a circumstance whicli greatly
contributed to render the sea in the vicinity of the island ap-
pear much more phosphorescent than usual. Its brilliancy
was so great that we cold almost see to read by it, and we
all remained on deck for hours to enjoy the scene. By
straining some of the water through a piece of muslin, it
was found to contain myriads of animalculse, which in tlie
dark shone as brilliantly as the fire-fly.

At early daylight we filled away, and stood in for Porto
Praya, where we arrived at 7 A. M. This harbor may be
described as a semicircular bay, of several miles in cir-
cumference, with bold steep shores. The entrance is from
the southwest, and is free from all danger. The usual
landing is around the bluff, upon which the fort and town
are built. Sometimes a heavy swell sets in the bay, which
renders landing very difficult.

St. Jago is one of the largest of the Cape de Yerde
Islands. It extends from the 15th to the 16 th degree of
north latitude, and from the 24:th to the 25th degree of
west longitude. The population is estimated at 25,000,
There are many fine pastures to be seen in the interior of
the island, and here and there a valley of great fertility

26 ST. JAGO— CAPE DE VERDE ISLANDS.

and beauty, but in general the island is barren and moun
tainous. The coast is high, especially at the southeast ex-
tremity. The hills, rocks, soil, and everything about the
surface, bear unmistakable marks of volcanic origin.

The island is subject at intervals to droughts, and during
their continuance the inhabitants suffer greatly from want
of food and water. The exj)orts are orchilla,^ castor oil,
beans, salt, hides, and goat-skins ; the former article is a
government monopoly, and forty thousand dollars are paid
by the company for the yearly crop. The goat skins are
sent to the United States and sold at a very profitable rate.

Porto Praya is the capital of the island ; it is built on a
piece of " table land," and looks much more inviting when
viewed from the anchorage than when more closely ex-
amined. The houses are constructed of a rough stone,
without any regard to symmetry, and very few are over
one story in height. The streets are wide, but are not
paved, nor kept clean.

A church, a barracks and a jail, constitute all the prin-
cipal public buildings. The interior of the dwellings is in
perfect keeping with their external appearance; a few
chairs, a table, and a bedstead or two, are all the furniture
which any of them can boast of.

The stores are very insignificant, for not only are the as-
sortments small, but they are composed of the most com-
mon articles. The population is estimated at 3,000, of
which number more than two-thirds are negroes. The
women are the ugliest we have ever seen. They are fond
oi gay colors, and their most fashionable head-dress con-
eists of a figured cotton handkerchief, tied round the head
like a Turkish turban.

* A species of kelp, or Sea-weed, which, when burned, produces alkaline ashes, used in
the manufacture of glass and soap.

ST. J AGO — CAPE DE VEEDE ISLANDS. 27

The language spoken is a mixture of the Portuguese and
the negro dialects. Many of the blacks are slaves, brought
from the neighboring coast of Africa, and continue to
speak in their mother tongue. They dress in a loose shirt,
and seldom use a covering of any sort on their heads.
Their children go entirely naked.

"We have a Consul residing in the town. The climate is
not considered healthy for strangers; it is subject to a
fever, similar to that which prevails on the coast of Africa.

St. Jago, like the other Cape deYerde Islands, furnishes
the Portuguese government with a place of honorable
exile for distinguished subjects, whose political opinions
may be adverse to the existing institutions. They are ad-
vanced a step or two in rank to repay them, and a poor
compensation it is for six years residence in such a misera-
ble place, for they are not allowed to return sooner.

During the short time we remained at the Island, our
naturalists were actively employed, and many specimens
were added to our collections in botany, ornithology, and
shells.

On the Tth of October, we again spread our sails to the
breeze, and stood to sea. During the 9th we experienced
variable airs, with calms at intervals. At 10 A. M. on
the same day, we found ourselves in the midst of a very
strong tide-ripple. There can be no doubt that this agita-
tion of the water was caused by a current, for the sea was
perfectly smooth only a few minutes before. In the after-
noon we were in the position given to Pattey's Overfalls,
represented as being so alarming to navigators, but v/e
could see nothing of them.

November 4:th. The " Yincennes" saw ahead what she
supposed to be breakers, but upon examining the place it
proved to be an ocular deception, produced by the sun's

26 PASSAGE TO mo JANEIEO, BRAZIL.

rays throwing light upon the verge of the horizon, while it
and the intermediate space between it and the ship, was ren-
dered dark by the shadow of the clouds. Similar appear-
ances caused by the moon, were seen during the night.

On the 5th, we crossed the equator, in longitude 1Y° west.
The wind now blew from the southward and eastward. In
the course of the afternoon we saw many shoals of flying-
fisli, and as they sprung unusually high into the air, we con-
cluded that they were chased by other fish. The flying-fish
has many enemies ; theboneta, albacore, dolphin, &c., &c.,
are waging incessant w^ar with them in the sea, and no
sooner do they take to flight, than the prowling frigate-bird,
or wide-a-wake, is ready to dash down among them, and
drive them once more to seek shelter in their OAvn native
element. Very frequently, when they are trying to escape
from their enemies, they strike against the ship's side, and
are instantly killed. The largest of them are not over twelve
inches in length, but their fins are much larger in propor-
tion than those of other fish. Sailors sometimes eat them,
but they are not considered a good article of diet.

An amusing circumstance occurred during the night of
the 9tli of N'ovember. In our course we passed very near a
large sail, which, from the night being unusually dark, the
officer of the deck mistook for the " Vincennes," although
sailing on a different course. He immediately followed the
vessel, and continued after her until morning, when, to his
surprise, he discovered that it was a large Dutch ship. "VVe
considered it a capital joke, and during the rest of the pas-
sage had many a hearty laugh over it. When the mis-
take was discovered we resumed our former course, and
soon after overtook the squadron again.

On the 10th, 11th, 13th and 14th, we kept watch for the
periodical showers of stars. Forty were seen in the mid-

PASSAGE TO RTO JANEIRO, BRAZIL. 29

watch of the 13th, proceeding from the Pleiades, and shoot-
ing in a northerly direction. The weather was now de-
lightful, and the southeast trades were wafting us along at
the rate of nine or ten knots per hour. The nights recalled
to our minds the beautiful description of the illustrious
Humboldt : " One experiences an indescribable sensation
when, as we approach the equator, and especially when
passing from one hemisphere to the other, we see the stars,
with which we have been familiar from infancy, gradually
approach the horizon, and finally disappear. Nothing im-
presses more vividly on the mind of the traveler the vast
distance which separates him from his native country, than
the sight of a new firmament. The grouping of the large
stars, the scattered nebulae rivaling in lustre the milky-way,
together with some spaces remarkable for their extreme
darkness, give the southern heavens a peculiar aspect. The
sight even strikes the imagination of those who, ignorant
of astronomy, find pleasure in contemplating the celestial
vault, as one admires a fine landscape or a majestic site.
Without being a botanist, the traveler knows the torrid
zone by the mere sight of its vegetation, and without the
possession of astronomical knowledge perceives that he is
not in Europe, when he sees rising in the horizon the great
constellation of the ship, or the phosphorescent clouds of
Magellan. In the equinoctial regions, the earth, the sky,
and all their garniture, assume an exotic character."

About meridian on the 24th, we made the harbor of Eio
Janeiro directly ahead. At 4.30 P. M., showed our num-
ber together with the rest of the squadron, which was an-
swered by the United States frigate " Independence," the
fiag-ship of the Brazil station. At 5 we passed Fort St.
Cruz, situated at the entrance of the harbor, and in the

30

course of half an hour more arrived off " Rat Island,"
where we let-go the anchor.

We were much disappointed not to find the '' Relief"
here. The usual passage for vessels bound to Rio from our
ports is fifty days, but she had already been out ninety
days ; we therefore began to feel anxious about her.

There were a great many foreign vessels in the harboi-,
and not less than fifty or sixty were American, belonging
to Baltimore and New York. The trade with the United
States has greatly increased. Within the last two or three
years from two to three hundred American vessels take
and bring cargoes to and from the United States. They
bring out flour and cotton goods, and return loaded with
sugar, coffee. India-rubber, medicines, and spices of every
kind.

I visited the city as often as my duties would permit, but
it is too well known to require much to be said of it. It is
built on the west side of the bay formed by the debouch^
of the river of Janeiro, and has a very picturesque appear-
ance from the water. It is the largest and one of the
most flourishing cities in South America. At the last cen
sus Rio Janeiro had 250,000 inhabitants. It contains
many rich churches, two hospitals, besides a miserecordia,
a college, a museum open twice a week, two theatres, one
opera, and several public gardens.

The population is perhaps more mixed than that of any
other city in the world. It consists of Europeans, mulattoes,
mamalucoes, or a mixed caste, between whites and aborigi-
nes, free negroes born in Brazil, manumitted Africans, mes-
tizoes or zamboes, between the mamalucoes and negroes, &c.

The Imperial Palace fronts the Grand Plaza. It is a
large tH*ee-story, stone edifice, with a handsome portico in
front The apartments occupied by the royal family are

* RIO JANEIRO, BRAZIL. 3i

spacious and aiiy, and furnished with regal splendor. Kio
is indebted for many of its public buildings to Don Pedro
I. It was his ambition to make the capital of Brazil a
second Lisbon.

The appearance of the city on Sundays is very much
the same as on week days ; the stores do business, and the
workshops are kept open. A few of the inhabitants may
be seen to attend divine service on that day, but the greater
number spend their time at the billiard-rooms and thea-
tres. Religion, which is Roman Catholic, according to the
latest statistical accounts, is in a very depressed condition.
The revenues of the church are so small that few respect-
able persons will undertake its duties ; and those who do
officiate are generally ill-instructed.

Another circumstance which struck me very forcibly
was the immense number of slaves* employed about the
streets as carriers of coffee and sugar. They go about al-
most naked, and bear upon their bodies the distinctive
mark of their tribe. They appear to work with cheerful-
ness, and generally go about in gangs with a leader, who
sings while they are carrying their loads. The song usu-
ally relates to their native country, and they all join in
the chorus. They constitute a large proportion of the
population of the city. In general, they are kindly treated
by their masters, and may purchase their freedom. Their
color operates less to their prejudice than with us. When
free they vote, and are eligible to a seat in the national
legislature, or to any situation in the army and navy.

The aqueduct which supplies Rio with water, is a splen-
did and substantial work. It extends from the city to a
reservoir on the summit of Corcovada mountain, distant

* Previous to 1830, the number of slaves annually imported into Brazil amounted tc
40,000. Since the prohibition of their importation the numbers have fallen off 11,000.

32 RIO JANEIRO, BRAZIL.

about twelve miles. This reservoir is supplied by the
mountain-vapors which the night temperature converts
into copious rains. The water is cool, delightful to the
Laste, and clear as crystal.

There is a navy-yard at Rio Janeiro. It presents, how-
ever, but little activity ; for the Brazillian navy is now
dwindled down to a few vessels ; previous to the abdica-
tion of Don Pedro I.* it was large and efficient.

The currency is paper, the gold and silver being mere
articles of commerce, and consequently subject to great
fluctuation.

On the 26th, the " Eelief " arrived. Her officers stated
that the great length of the passage was owing more to
calms, and variable v/inds than bad sailing. There were
many days during wdiich she did not make more than a
mile on her course. On the ITth, she fell in with the hull
of the brig " ISTile," of Bath, both masts gone, within a
few feet of the partners, and her hold was nearly filled
with water. It was evident she had been in this situation
for some time ; clusters of shell-fish were fastened to her
decks and bulwarks, and long sea-weeds flaunted at her
sides. As her bows23rit was still standing in good condi-
tion. Captain Long caused it to be cut away, and taken on
board the " Relief." Nothing more occurred during her
passage worthy of notice.

On the morning of the 27th we hauled up to Enxadas ;
landed the provisions and stores, and then proceeded to
" smoke ship." We performed this troublesome and disa-
greeable operation in tlie hope that we might destroy the
roaches, which from the time of our leaving the United

* Don Pedro I. ascended the throne in 1822, under the title of Emperor of Brazil. After
a reign of a few years, the violence of political parties rose to such a height, and became
so unmanageable, that the Emperor thought it prudent to abdicate in favor of his son, the
present Emperor.

KIO JA^^EIIIO, BRAZIL. 33

States, liad been a source of the. greatest annoyance
to us.

Enxadas is also tlie place where our observatory was
erected. It is a small rocky island, situated opposite Eio,
with a large dwelling-house standing at one end of it, and
a number of other buildings which were formerly used by
shipping as store-houses. It is at present the property of
a wealthy French family, residing in Eio Janeiro, but for-
merly, we were told, it was owned by the church, and the
dwelling-house above-mentioned was a nunnery.

December 1st was the anniversary of the Emperor's
birthday, Don Pedro II. The occasion was celebrated
with salutes, illuminations, and fireworks.

December 10th. I received orders to relieve Mr. C, on
board the " Kelief," he being obliged to return to the
United States on account of ill health.

On the ITth, got under-way, and were towed out the
harbor by boats from the " Independence" and " Porpoise,"
but the wind failing soon after the boats left, we let-go the
anchor to prevent our being drifted on shore by the tide.
At an early hour next morning the breeze sprang up from
the southward and eastward, and we hove-up the anchor,
and stood down the coast.

January 2d. The Barometer was observed to fall from
29, 84, to 29, 52 ; but the weather remained j)leasant.

During the 4th many birds were seen ; among others the
albatross (diomedia exulans), giant petrel, cape pigeon, and
a species of gull.

On the 10th we passed Cape St. Joseph. This cape is a
rough, rocky headland, about 150 feet in height. A large
number of guanacos were seen on a neighboring hill, and
a gi-eat many birds on the beach.

At daylight on the 21st, made the land near the strait of

31 COAST OF TEKKA DEL FUEGO.

Le Maire. At 9 A. M., passed Staten Land. The aspect
of this island is wild and savage beyond description, or even
imagination. At 11 A. M., found ourselves in the Straits of
Le Maire, and as the wind was unfavorable, we ran into the
bay of Good Success, and anchored in thirteen fathoms
water.

January 22d. Landed in a cove situated near the south-
west end of the bay. Saw a stream of fresh water about 50
feet wide, which discharged itself into the bay ; the w^ater
was of a dark brown color, but of excellent quality.
Ascended the highest hill in the vicinity of the bay ; found
the ascent, in consequence of the density of vegetation and
looseness of the soil, extremely fatiguing, but on reaching
the summit, thought ourselves amply compensated for all
our trouble, by the magnificent view afi*orded us of the
surrounding country. Several of our number had taken their
guns with them, expecting to find plenty of game, but were
disappointed. We saw no living animals of any kind. At
daylight we got under-vvay, and stood out of the bay with a
light breeze, but it soon died away, and the ship was drifted
back into the bay. About 6 o'clock, several natives were
seen to come opposite the ship, and, in order to draw our
attention, set up a shout. By 8 o'clock, having drifted back
to our former berth, we again came to anchor. Soon after
this we left the ship in three armed boats, to visit the na-
tives. On our landing they came running toward us, and
after welcoming us to their shores, which they did by first
placing their hands upon their breasts, and then pointing
to the ground, they commenced crying out, " cuchillo,"
"cuchillo." This being the Spanish for knife, and as
Wadel in his book states, that they have many Spanish
words in their language, we were all under the impression
they were asking if we had any knives to sell. We were,

TERRA DEL FUEGO.

however, soon convinced that we had not understood them,
for on showing them our knives they still kept crying out
" cuchillo." They also repeated the word when we showed
them a string of beads, or a looking-glass. In short, al-
though the word was kept up during the whole intercourse,
it was impossible to learn its meaning. They were admira-
ble mimics, and would repeat our own w^ords with great
accuracy, and even appeared to understand some of them.
They seemed to attach great value to iron and steel, and
would readily exchange their bows and arrows for a piece
of an iron hoop, or a few rusty nails.

The party consisted of fourteen men, and, with the excep-
tion of the headman, or chief, were all young, well- formed,
and good-looking. The two sons of the chief were partic-
ularly so ; they were full six feet in height, and had very
pleasing countenances. They all had their hair cut short on
the crown of the head, leaving a narrow border of hair hang-
ing down ; over this they wear a kind of a cap, or a band,
made from the skin of an albatross. The front teeth of aV
of them were very much worn, more apparent, however, in
the old than in the young. Their faces were painted, or,
more properly speaking, smeared with red and white clay.
Their dress consisted of a single guanaco skin, which cov-
ered the body from the shoulders down to the knees. All
had sore eyes, which we attributed to their long winters.
None of their women or children were seen, but we thought
they had them concealed in a piece of wood not far distant,
as they objected to any of us going toward it, and showed
much alarm when fire-arms were pointed in that direction.
They appeared to have very little curiosity, and nothing
seemed to excite their surprise ; their principal characteris-
tic seemed to be jealousy. It would seem that they have
had intercourse with Europeans before. The report of our

36

TERRA DEL FCEGO.

guns did not frighten them in the slightest degree. "We
also observed on one of them a string of glass beads.

Their food consists principally of shell-fish and fish. Their
fishing-apparatus is made of the dorsal-fin of a fish, tied to
a slip of whalebone in the form of a barb ; this serves as a
hook, and with it thej obtain their food.

All our endeavors to entice them to come on board by
friendly treatment, and the offer of presents, were useless.
They shook their heads and pointed to the woods, and then
ran some distance from the beach, as if they feared that
we intended to carry them off by force.

On the 24th we quitted Good Success Bay. We expe-
rienced during this day a strong current, setting northerly.
The coast here may be represented as a succession of peaks,
some of which rise so high as to be covered wath perpetual
snows. The weather was mild and pleasant.

On the 25tli the wind came out from the southwest, and
blew very fresh at intervals. At 5 P. M., anchored off
north-eastern side of ISTew Island. After sunset the wea-
ther cleared, and we had a very pleasant night.

On the following morning, after breakfast, we visited the
shore. We saw no human beings, but found near the beach
a hut, which bore many traces of being inhabited. It con-
tained a large number of muscle-shells which looked fresh,
a part of a seal-skin, and a large heap of ashes. We also
observed that the ground about the entrance was hard and
destitute of vegetation. The hut was constructed of logs,
the lower ends of which were spread round so as to form
nearly a perfect circle, Avhile the upper ends leaned against
each other. The interstices were filled with earth and grass.
In the centre was a hole, about two feet in circumference,
for the smoke to pass through. The entrance was from the
west, and was about three feet in height and two feet wide.

TERRA DEL FUEGO. 37

We liacl not time to examine mucli of the interior of the
island, but that which did come under our observation
presented a scene which we did not expect to witness in
so high a latitude. There was an abundance of vegeta-
tion, and much more advanced than any which was seen
at Good Success Bay.

On the 26th of January we left "New Island, and stood
to the westward. It was very provoking to find that our
charts so entirely misrepresented this part of the coast and
islands, as to destroy our confidence in them. At 11 A.
M., saw what was supposed to be Saddle Island. At me-
ridian it was so hazy that we were unable to obtain a
meridian observation, which was greatly needed, in order
to ascertain our true position.

On the 27th, at 2 P. M., we anchored in a small harbor.
At first sight we were under the imj^ression that this was
Orange Bay, but upon further examination we found that
we had been deceived ; and at T A. M,, Lieutenant Un-
derwood was dispatched to reconnoitre the coast.

In the afternoon we took a stroll on shore. The land
for some miles back from the beach was low, and the soil
appeared less fertile than any we had yet seen. It bore
in spots a small red berry, which had a pleasant flavor.
Yisited a hut, in w^hich we found a knife and a piece of
Guernsey frock; the knife was originally a part of an
iron-hoop. The hut was not in such good preservation as
that found on ISTew Island.

The wild goose, the shag duck, and some others of the
feathered tribe, were in great abundance here, and many
were killed by the scientific gentlemen, and their skins
preserved for the government. Found, by an excellent
meridian observation, the latitude of our anchorage to be

38 TERRA DEL FUEGO.

65° 20' 30" south ; longitude by clirouoineter 67° 37' 00"
west. At sunset Mr. Underwood returned.

On the following day we quitted the harbor above re-
ferred to, and coasted along in search of Orange Bay.
Passed a number of islands, which answered the descrip-
tion given of those in the vicinity of Orange Bay by Cap-
tain King. At 6 P. M., came-to in a large, beautiful bay ;
it was nearly circular in shape, and was bounded on all
sides with undulating hills, covered with evergreen foliage,,
to their very summits.

We had scarcely let-go the anchor when a canoe, with
five natives, three men, a woman and child, came along-
side. Upon invitation two of the men came on board
without manifesting the slightest hesitation or distrust,
and we were not a little surprised to find them so entirely
diff'erent from those we had seen at Good Success Bay.
They spoke an entirely different language, were of a low,
stature, ill-shaped, and wore their hair long. So great,
indeed, was the difference that we could no longer doubt
that those seen at Good Success were Patagoniaus, and
had in all probability come there in quest of game ; while
these were the real Terra del Fuegians.

They were not more than five feet high, of light copper-
color, which was much concealed by smut and dirt ; in-
deed, it would be impossible to imagine anything in human
nature more filthy and disgusting. They had short faces,
narrow foreheads, and high cheek-bones. The hair was
long, lank and black, hanging over the face, and was cov-
ered with ashes. Their bodies were remarkable, for the
great development of the chest and shoulders ; their arms
were long and out of proportion ; their legs were small
and very much bowed. The woman was young, but no
better-looking than the men. She was seated at one end

TERRA DEL FUEGO. 39

of the canoe, and appeared to take an equal share with
the men in the labors of the paddle. We invited her on
board repeatedly, but she would not venture ; doubtless
she was afraid of offending the men, who are very jeal-
ous. The child had an" interesting countenance, and was,
I should judge, about three years of age, though it was
still in arms. It was attired in the same manner as the
rest ; a piece of seal-skin, about a foot square, tied around
its waist, being all the poor little thing had on to protect
it against one of the coldest days that we had yet expe-
rienced.

Our two friends appeared to be much pleased with their
visit ; their countenances and manner plainly indicated the
pleasure wdiich they felt on seeing so many new objects.
When about to leave, we made them some presents in the
way of clothes, with which they all appeared to be greatly
pleased, and insisted upon giving us in return some bows
and arrows. It was very amusing to see them in their new
dress ; they moved about with strutting affectation of dig-
nity, and gave themselves a thousand consequential airs.

Their imitation of sounds was truly astonishing ; we
tried them with the flute and guitar, and they followed
the sounds correctly. They were also found to be great
mimics in action ; anything they saw, they would mimic,
and with an extraordinary degree of accuracy. They were
very talkative, and often burst out into a loud laughter
Y\ hen with each other ; but whenever they discovered that
we were watching them, they looked as grave as judges,
and said but little. We also observed that they spoke to
each other in a whisper.

Their arms consisted of bows, arrows, and spears. They
use the latter for killing the seal, which is found in great

40 TEEEA DEL FUEGO.

abundance in all the bays, and which they esteem to be
excellent food.

At an early hour next day another canoe, with seven
natives, came alongside, and asked permission to come on
board ; but finding it could not be granted so early in the
day, they paddled off again, and we saw no more of them.

In the afternoon we visited the shore, and very soon
fell in with the natives, who came on board on the day of
our arrival. They immediately commenced jumping up
and down, which is their mode of expressing friendship.
One of them, who had a j^air of pantaloons given him,
had them tied round his neck, and another had the skirts
of his coat cut off; the reason he assigned for doing so
was that they were in his way. Their hut was constructed
after the manner of that we saw at JSTew Island, and bore
quite a neat and comfortable appearance. The ground
was swept clean, and in the centre a large fire was burn-
ing, over which hung a string of fish. The other articles
which it contained were some shells, which were carefully
laid upon some clean leaves, and the blanket we had given
to the woman on the previous day. They seldom cook
their food much. The skell-fish are detached from their
shell by heat, and the fish are partly roasted in their skins
without being cleaned. It was evident that, notwithstand-
ing our kind treatment to these people, we had not gained
their confidence ; for, on seeing us approach the hut, the
woman fled with her child, nor could we prevail upon the
men to cause her to return.

As this harbor was not put down on any of the charts
in our possession, we believed it to be a discovery, and
named it after our ship.

On the 30th, we once more got under-way, and after a
further search of a few hours, we succeeded in finding Or-

TEREA DEL FUEGO. 41

auge Bay. Our observations placed it in latitude 55° 31'
00" south, and longitude 68° 00' 20" west. It is capacious,
easy of access, and better j)rotected from the southwest
winds than any place as yet known on the coast of Terra
del Fuego. About a mile from the southern shore are two
islands, the largest of which is two miles in length, of a
moderate height, and called Burnt Island. The land to
the southward is rocky and barren, but that to the north-
ward abounds in wood and water. The trees grow nearly
down to the water's edge, and some are from sixty to seven-
ty feet in height, having all their tops bent to the northeast
by the prevailing southwest winds. The beach was covered
with rocks of trap formation ; it also abounded in shells,
especially in the muscle and petela.

On the morning after our arrival, a canoe with six natives,
five men and one woman, came off to the ship, bringing with
them spear-heads and necklaces made of shells, which they
readily exchanged for cotton handkerchiefs and pieces of
iron. They were invited to come on board, but at first only
one would venture ; this was a young man about nineteen
years of age, and rather good-looking. They were evidently
of the same race as those we had seen at Eelief Harbor ;
they spoke the same language, and resembled them in their
features and dress. The woman was old and extremely ugly,
and as masculine in her appearance as any of the men. She
declined coming on board. Her face was painted black and
red in vertical lines, and she wore a necklace made of shells ;
her posture while she remained in the boat was that of a
squat. Their canoe was made of strips of bark sewed to-
gether, and strengthened by ribs and gunwale pieces, and
was about twenty-five feet long and three feet wide. The
blades of the paddles were so narrow as to be of very little
use in a sea way. The bottom of the canoe was covered

42 TERRA DEL FUEGO.

with a layer of clay, upon which a fire was kept burning.
It would seem from the great care they appear to take of
their fire, that, when extinguished, it is no easy matter for
them to rekindle it.

When this party left the ship, they employed themselves
for several hours in fishing among the kelp, and then they
pulled up towards the head of the bay where their hut
was located, and which was found to be quite diff'erently
constructed from any we had previously seen. It was built
of boughs, leaves, and earth ; in shape it resembled a bee-
hive, and was impervious to wind and snow. The entrance
was low and oval-shaped. The floor was formed of clay, and
in the centre was an excavation which contained the fire.

January 31st. Mr. C, with six seamen, took possession of
Burnt Island, for the purpose of making observations on
the tide. He met there several of the natives who had
visited the shij) ; they were out gathering berries, of which
one kind grows here in great abundance, and has a very
pleasant flavor ; its color is bright red.

February 1st, 2dj 3d, and 4:th, we experienced strong
southwest gales, accompanied with heavy rain. On the 5th
the gale subsided, and the weather became mild and
pleasant.

Mr. C. sent on board a great variety of birds which he
shot on Burnt Island, and their skins were preserved for
government.

February 12th. We experienced more very disagree-
able weather.

On the ITth, the schooner "Sea Gull" arrived ; she re-
ported the rest of the squadron to be only a few miles ofl'.

In the course of February 18th and 19th, the " Yin-
cennes," " Peacock," " Porpoise," and " Flying Fish,"
arrived and anchored.

STORM OFF CAPE HORN. 4^^

On the morning of the 25th, the " Peacock," " Porpoise,"
and the two schooners sailed on a cruise to the South
Pole. Captain Wilkes took passage in the '' Porpoise,"
and the report is that the " Yincennes" will remain here
nntil his return.

At 8 A. M., on the 26th, we got nnder-way, and stood out
through the southern passage. About 11 passed False Cape
Horn, and 00.20' P. M., descried the islands of Ildefonsas.

March 3d. We had fresh breezes from the westward,
accompanied with rain and a heavy head sea. The ba-
rometer was referred to frequently, but was found very
fluctuating, and gave no indications of the weather.

During the night of the 6th, the wind increased to such
a degree as to oblige us to reduce sail to a close-reefed
main-topsail and fore-storm staysail.

About noon on the 8th, the gale moderated, and we
flattered ourselves we should have fine weather once more ;
but a little before sunset it began to increase again.

During the 10th and 11th, the wind was moderate, but
very variable, and accompanied with rain at intervals. In
the afternoon of the last mentioned day an albatross was
shot, which measured nine feet from the tip of one wing
to the tip of the other. We caught several smaller ones
with hook and line. To kill these, the region of the brain
was pierced with a large sewing needle, which produced
instant death. At sunset the coast of Terra del Fuego
was reported in sight from aloft.

On the morning of the 13 th an alarm of fire was given ;
but it proved to be the igniting of the alcohol of the lamp
belonging to the dispensary, and was soon extinguished
without doing any damage.

March 18th. Finding the wind was increasing, wore ship
and reduced sail. At 1.30 P. M., descried Noir Island

44 STORM OFF CAPE HORN.

under our lee ; and soon after the Tower Kocks, a short
distance ahead, and on our lee bow. The wind continued
to increase ; the waves rose in mountains, and the ship
was rapidly drifting towards the coast of Terra del Fuego.
To avoid, therefore, being wrecked, after passing Tower
Rocks, we hauled up for the southeast point of ^N'oir. Island,
and at 4.45 P. M., came-to in seventeen fathoms water
with both bower-anchors, veering on one cable to 105
fathoms, and on the other to 120 fathoms.

The following morning, the gale moderating, we began
to hope for a favorable change of weather ; but towards
sunset the wind shifting to the southward, all hope of such
change vanished. The wind now freshened again, and by
midnight blew with such force that we let-go our last an-
chor, in the hope of keeping the ship off shore till day-
light, when perhaps we might make sail and stand out to
sea. It was so uncommonly dark, that there was quite as
much, and perhaps more danger in attempting to get to
sea, than in holding on.

At daylight we found that the larboard bower-chain
had parted, and the larboard sheet become unshackled at
forty-five fathoms ; we also found the ship had dragged so
as to be much nearer the reef off Penguin Point.

The sky grew more angry as the day declined ; — •

" The settiijg orb in crimson ' seemed to mourn,'
Denouncing greater woes at his return ;
And adds new horrors to the present doom,
By certain fears of evils yet to come."

After the sun went down the storm raged with greater
violence than at any previous time. Never had we seen
it blow so hard before, nor ever beheld such billows. A
little after 8 o'clock the ship commenced dragging, and a
tremendous wave came over the bows, which dashed a

PASSAGE TO VALPARAISO. 45

number of the crew against the masts and guns, and com-
pletely inundated the berth-deck. Though, about 9 o'clock,
the wind changed its direction, so that the ship tailed clear
of the above-mentioned reef, yet we were not rescued from
the danger of being shipwrecked. At every moment the
water was becoming more and more shoal. In less than
half an hour it shoaled six fathoms, and the storm still
raged with unabated fury ; however, to our great delight,
about midnight it began perceptibly to moderate.

We hailed with joy the ray of comfort this afforded us.
It was like the arrival of an old friend, whose presence in
the hour of misfortune affords consolation. It was believed
that we passed within twenty yards of the reef; and had
the storm continued a few moments longer we w^ould in-
evitably have been lost.

At 3.30 A. M., the ship fell-off before the wind, upon
which we slipped the remaining cables, made sail, hauled
on a wind on the larboard-tack, and stood out to sea. By
Y A. M. the ship was under whole topsails and main-top-
gallant sail, and was rapidly increasing her distance from
the spot, which, only a few hours before, filled every
bosom with so many death-like apprehensions.

On the 27th, we fell in with the '' Montezuma," a whale-
ship, from Talcauanaha, bound to Nantucket. Her captain
informed us of the taking of Lima by the Chilian army.
He also presented us with a quantity of vegetables, for
which he received our warmest thanks. We had not
tasted anything of the kind since we left Rio Janeiro.
During the night, the breeze became very light.

April 4:th. We captured with the hook seven albatrosses ;
the plumage of two of which was extremely beautiful.
This is the best mode of taking them when the ship has
but little head-way. Two were prepared for dinner, but

.46 ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO.

they were far from being good eating, the flesh being very-
tough and fishy.

At daylight on the ISth, we made the coast of Chili on
our lee-bow, and at 7 Mount Quillota bore per compass
north 60° east. In the afternoon sent Lieutenant Under-
wood into Valparaiso to procure an anchor. At an early
iiour on the following morning he returned, and reported
there was a chain-cable in the government stores, but no
anchors ; the only one to be obtained belonged to H. B. M.
ship " President," which Captain Lock kindly oflered us
the loan of. Received the anchor on board, and got it
ready for letting go.

On the 15th, we came-to in the roads of Valparaiso ; —

" Where Valparaiso's cliffs and flowers.
In mirror'd wilduess, sweep
Their shadows round the mermaid's bower,
Our steadfast anchors sleep."

On the same day the American ship " Meriposa," from
ISTew York, with stores for the squadron, arrived. Her
master was kind enough to send us a large file of newspa-
pers, all of which we read with infinite satisfaction.

CHILI AND VALPAKAISO. 47

CHAPTER in.

CHILI AND YALPAEAISO.

Chili is washed on the west by the Pacific Ocean ; on
the east bounded by the Cordilleras ; on the south by
Patagonia ; and on the north by Bolivia. Like all other
parts of South America, it is subject to earthquakes ; deep
ravines may be seen intersecting the surface in all direc-
tions. The appearance of the coast is far from being in-
viting, especially in the vicinity of Valparaiso ; but there
are in the interior many extensive and fertile valleys. The
southern part is admirably adapted to the growth of wheat,
of which large quantities are now raised. Chili is also
rich in mineral productions ; copper ore is found in the
mountains in the greatest abundance.

The climate is variable — the southern part being, on ac-
count of its higher southern latitude, considerably colder.
At Valparaiso the mean temperature at midday is 65°, in
the evening and morning 60°. During the winter, which
commences the first of May and ends in September, the
rains sometimes last for two or three days, and during their
continuance the rivers swell to three and four times their
usual size.

Earthquakes are sometimes very violent — that of 1835
nearly destroyed the towns of Talcahuana, Aranco, Talca,
and Conception. At Valparaiso the sea receded two feet,
and the ground was much rent. In order to lessen the
destruction of human life, the houses are usually built low
and of light material.

48 CHILI AND VALPARAISO.

The population of the republic is estimated at oue mil-
lion and a half.

The capital is St. Jago, which is situated at the foot of
the Cordilleras, and distant about sixty miles from Valpa-
raiso. All of our officers who visited it were delighted with
it. A long line of turrets, domes, and spires, occasionally
screened by intervening trees, planted along its numerous
avenues, indicated the city. The population is 60,000. It
has a national college, a military academy, various private
seminaries for both sexes, an extensive hospital, and seve-
ral handsome churches.

Valparaiso is the next largest town in the republic, and
is one of the most flourishing places in the Pacific. In 1820
it consisted of fifteen or twenty huts, and now it contains
eight or nine thousand buildings, and individual houses
fetch an annual rent of more than three thousand dollars.
Its principal street runs parallel with the beach — is tole-
rably wide, and contains many large and commodious
shops, well supplied with English goods and various other
kinds of merchandise. The remaining streets are paved,
but are narrow and winding. The public buildings con-
sist of the churches, the Governor's palace, and the cus-
tom-house. The dwellings are slightly built, and never
more than two stories high, on account of the earthquakes,
and in general have a wooden balcony in front. There
are many Americans and English living in the city, who
carry on a lucrative business, the export trade being mostly
monopolized by them. They reside on the hill in the rear
of the business part of the town, in neat white cottages,
surrounded by fiower-gardens. This is the most pleasant
part of the city, and commands a fine view of the harbor.
From here may be seen the vessels of the United States,
England, France, Holland, Denmark and Sweden, dis-

CHILI AND VALPARAISO. 49

playing their gay flags and mingling their bright stream-
ers in the brilliant eliulgence of a cloudless sky.

The police of Valparaiso is celebrated for its efficiency.
Good order and decorum prevail everywhere. Crime is
rarely heard of, and never suffered to go unpunished. Tiie
credit of forming this institution is given to Portales, a
man of rare talents and great energy of character. It con-
sists of two distinct bodies, one mounted, and the other on
foot ; the former patrol the streets on horseback, wliile the
latter watch over a particular ward or district, for which
they are held responsible. They wear a uniform and a
sword, to distinguish them from the other citizens.

The market is well supplied. Fruits and vegetables are
abundant and cheap ; the grapes, peaches and pears are of
the best kinds. Beef is as good as w^e have at home.
There is also a great variety of fish.

The population is estimated at 34,000, and is rapidly in-
creasing.

The principal seaports of Chili are Yaldavia, "Talca-
huano, Copiapo, Coquimbo, Chiloe, and Guasco. Talca-
huano and Yaldavia we have in particular heard repre-
sented as most eligible places for vessels which visit these
seas, to touch at. As for Valparaiso, it is not a good sea-
port ; it is entirely exposed to the ocean from the north, so
that, when the w^ind blows with violence from that quar-
ter, which is the case during the winter season, a heavy sea
sets into it, and renders the anchorage highly dangerous.
It is, however, more frequented than any other harbor.
Vessels make it a point to stop here, whatever may be
their destination.

The common people of Chili are a mixed race, sprung
from the union of the Spaniards wdth the native Indian
women. They are generally well made, of a dark brown

50 CHILI AND VALPAKAISO.

complexion, and have a liealthj look. They bear the best
character of any of the South Americans. They are
honest, industrious, and brave. The men are good riders,
and very skillful in the use of the lasso. The women
have very pretty feet and hands.

Their habitations are built of reeds, plastered with mud
and thatched with straw. The poncho is universally worn
by the men ; it is a piece of cloth of a home manufacture,
of the shape of an oblong square, with a hole in the mid-
dle, through which the head is passed, the longer ends
hanging down to the knees before and behind — the shorter
at each side falling over the shoulders.

Their favorite amusements are the two dances. Fandango,
and Sama Cueca. The latter is performed in cities and
large towns at the Chingano ; the performers are usually
a young man and woman, gaudily attired ; they stand on a
kind of stage, and begin the dance by facing each other,
and flirting handkerchiefs over each other's heads — then
they approach and retreat alternately — occasionally they
dart ofi" on each side. The whole is well calculated to
display the graces of a fine figure to the best advantage.
Its moral tendency may be questioned. Some of the ges-
tures are quite lascivious, and may be esily understood by
every one who witnesses the scene. The music is executed
altogether by females, and consists of the harp, the casta-
nets, and the guitar. They also add to this a national
love-song, sung in Spanish, which the audience seem to en-
joy more than any other part of the performance.

The higher classes are of a pure Spanish blood, and are
intelligent and courteous; they pass their evenings in small
social assemblies, called Tertulias. The women cannot be
said to be beautiful, but they are virtuous and amiable.
They are fond of dancing and music, in both of which

CHILI AND VALPARAISO.

they excel. I^early every house is furnished with a piano ;
they dress with much taste, and in the Parisian style.

The men have been accused by travelers of being indo-
lent ; no doubt such was the case w^hen they were under
the Spanish rule, and had no inducement to be otherwise,
but I have been assured by foreign gentlemen, who have
resided in the country for the last fifteen years, that such
is not their character at the present day ; on the contrary,
they are industrious and enterprising.

The religion of Chili is the Catholic ; but the govern-
ment has repudiated the interference of the Pope in the
appointment of bishops and arch-bishops. The clergy
have great influence over the people, and much political
power in the state ; but they are liberal in their notions
of government, and encourage the diffusion of knowledge
amongst the lower classes.

Commerce has more than doubled within the last ten
years. According to the statistical accounts of the past
year, Valparaiso alone exports thirty thousand hides.
Grain is sent to Peru and Equador in large quantities. Six
hundred quintals of wool are shipped annually from Con-
ception. Copper, hemp and platina are largely exported.
The iron mines are also sources of great wealth, and the
miners annually extract vast quantities of the ore ; indeed,
there is no doubt that Chili is blest with all the elements
necessary to make her a powerful commercial nation.

The army which was sent to invade Peru in the war just
concluded, is said to have consisted of 8,000 men, and to
have been well appointed. The navy is larger, and by
far more efficient, than that of any of the other South
American States.

The prospects of education are bright. There are several
good colleges in the republic, and common schools are be-

52

CHILI AND VALPAEAISO.

ing established in all the towns for the instruction of the
lower classes ; and the system of education introduced into
the schools and colleges is said to be superior.

The administration of public affairs is better conducted
than in any other country in South America. Generally
speaking, the magistrates are men of ability and integrity,
and nowhere else are life and property better protected.
Universal suffrage is granted by the laws of the constitu-
tion to every one above twenty-five years of age, and no
public measure can be carried which is adverse to the
welfare of the masses.

On the 28th of April, General Joaquim Prieto, Presi-
dent of Chili, arrived from St. Jago. He was received by
the inhabitants with .all due respect. The civil autho-
rities and the military went several miles out of the city to
receive him ; the batteries saluted, and the streets through
which he passed were decorated with flags and evergreens.

On the evening of the 30th, we attended a ball given
by the citizens of Valparaiso, in honor of the recent vic-
tory of Yungai over the Peruvians. It was a brilliant
affair, equaling anything of the kind we ever witnessed in
the United States, or any other part of the world. The
place selected for it was a space between two large build-
ings ; temporary arches were erected over head, and the
whole was covered w^ith an aw^ning, lined with blue and
studded with stars. The room was brilliantly lighted by
handsome chandeliers suspended from the arches over
head ; the floor was carpeted, and the pillars wdiich sup-
ported the roof were decorated wdth emblems of the vic-
tory and nation. At the upper end there was a transpa-
rency of General Bulnes, the hero of Yungai, surrounded
with scrolls of his deeds. On the sides were hung paint-
ings and rich mirrors, in which hundreds of lights were

CHILI AND VALPARAISO. 53

reflected, while the national flags, formed into festoons,
intermixed with w^reaths of flowers and evergreens, encir-
cling emblematic designs of the nation's glory, produced
an efiect that was truly beautiful. The president's recep-
tion-room and the card-rooms were also very handsomely
decorated. The company amounted to five hundred, of
whom about one-fourth were ladies ; many native and for-
eign officers were present, dressed in their uniforms. At
10 o'clock the ball* was opened by the ]3resident in person.
He was dressed in a richly-embroidered coat, gold ej^au-
lettes, and a field-marshal's sash. He is a fine-looking
man, about fifty years of age. He danced a minuet with
a lady of Valparaiso, after which the dancing became
general, consisting of waltzes, contra dances, quadrilles,
and the sama cueca. The music was very fine, and many
marches and national airs were played during the inter-
vals between the dances. The ball did not break up until
8 o'clock, at which hour the president was escorted home
by a procession of the dancers. His unblemished private
character, together with the success of his policy toward
the Peruvian government, have rendered him extremely
popular with all classes of society.

54 CALLAO AND LIMA.

CHAPTEE lY.

CALLAO AND LIMA.

On the 1st of May we sailed for Callao, where we ar-
rived after a passage of twelve days. I^othing of interest
occurred during this period. The wind most of the time
was favorable, and the weather warm and pleasant.

We found in j^ort the United States ship " Lexington,"
belonging to the Pacific squadron ; also the Chilian fleet,
amounting to ten sail, commanded by Admiral Blanco, an
English and a French frigate, and about fifty merchant
vessels, six of which were American.

Callao, the seaport of Lima, is celebrated for its safety
and convenience. The island of St. Lorenzo shelters it
from the swell of the ocean to the west, and there is no
danger from any other direction. The Mole aff'ords every
facility for landing goods from the boats. Water is con-
ducted to the Mole by an aqueduct, and a railway conveys
the goods to the far-famed fortress,^ which is now con-
verted into a depot. There are a number of sentries sta-
tioned on the Mole night and day, for the double purpose
of preserving order among the boatmen, and to aid the
custom-house in preventing smuggling, which, notwith-
standing, is carried on to an extent that is hardly credible.
This is efi'ected by the owner of the goods bribing the
custom-house ofiicials.

* It was here that the last stand of the royalist was made in New Spain ; and it was
in the same castle that the brave Rodil, with a handful of devoted followers defended
themselves with heroic courage against the insurgents in 1826. Surrounded, but not dis-
mayed, they still kept their assailants at bay, until famine stalked before them, and they
were forced to yield. History tells us that horse-meat sold among the besieged for a gold
ounce the pound, and a chicken for its weight in the same precious metaJ

CALLAO AND LIMA.

The town is situated several miles from the site of old
Callao,"^ and numbers about five thousand inhabitants. It
has not much to commend it. The only well-built houses
are those on the main street. The churches and other
public buildings are too insignificant to deserve description.

The market is held in a large open square. Oranges,
apples, figs, grapes, granadillas, and chirimoyas, are abun-
dant in their season. Vegetables of every sort are also to be
had. Beef is cut into small pieces to suit the purchasers,
and poultry is cut up in a similar manner ; the former is
killed in the outskirts of the town, and the hide, head and
entrails are left for the buzzards, which are very nume-
rous and protected by law ; the rest of the carcase is
brought to market on the backs of donkeys.

The inhabitants are addicted to gambling, and pass m-ost
of their time at the billiard-rooms and monte-tables.

The old castle claimed our attention ; it covers a large
extent of ground, and its walls are high and very massive.
One of the officers told us that it was capable of quarter-
ing ten thousand troops. It was once looked upon as the
key of the country. Whichever party had it in posses-
sion, w^ere considered masters of Peru. As I have already
remarked, it is now used as a depot for goods, and is nearly
dismantled — only five of the guns remain out of the 140
w^hich it mounted ; the metal of these is brass, and their
proportions are beautiful. The garrison consisted of eight
hundred men. I cannot say much for their personal ap-
pearance ; they were quite short, had an awkward gait,
and dull, stupid countenances. If they are a fair speci-
men of the soldiers of the country, it is no wonder that
the Chilians have been able to conquer it so easily.

*01d Callao was destroyed by the memorable earthquake of 1746. In the same earth-
quake a first-class frigate, lying in the harbor, was lifted several hundred feet and carried
inland a considerable distance, where a monument was erected to commemorate the event.

60 CALLAO AND LIMA.

The distance from Callao to Lima is about eight miles,
and stages run between the two places almost every hour
in the day ; the fare is one dollar. The road leads over a
plain, but it is not kept in good repair, and is, besides, very
dusty, on account of the extreme dryness of the climate.
In this part of Peru, there are heavy dews, but no rain.

AYe had an opportunity of visiting the " City of the
Kiugs"'^ several times. AVe went up in the coaches, and
always set out at an early hour, that we might avoid the
heat of the sun and the dust. During the first ten or fifteen
minutes of the ride, we sav/ nothing to interest us, for we
w^ere passing through the filthy streets of Callao, and its
still more filthy outskirts. Of all the places w^e have as
yet visited, civilized or uncivilized, Callao has been the
most filthy and disgusting. When about two miles out,
we passed Bella Yista, which, ever since the revolution,
has been in ruins.

We next came to the so-called half-way house, where the
drivers invariably stop to rest the horses, and to regale
themselves with a glass of ]3isco from its dirty piilperia.
This part of the road was formerly infested by banditti,
and no one thought of appearing on it without being well
armed ; but now this is not necessary, as the j)olice has
taken steps to disperse the robbers.

Resuming our course, we soon reached a section of coun-
try laid out in gardens, filled with all kinds of fruit-trees,
shaded walks, lined on either hand with stone seats, and in-
tersected with running streams of water. It is the usual
evening-drive of the Limineans, and a delightful one it is.

* The name bestowed on the infant capital was Curdad de los Rages, or City of Kings,
in honor of the day, being the 6th of January, 1535, the Festival of Epiphany, when it
was said to have been founded by Pizarro. But the Castilian name ceased to be used even
within tlie first generation, and was supplanted by that of Lima, into which the original
Indian name was corri;pted by the Spaniards. — PrcgcntCs Conquest of Per~,i, vol. ii.

LIMA.

In a few minutes more we found ourselves passing under
tlie great gate of the city. Its aspect is that of rapid de-
cline ; there is no stir or life among the inhabitants ; many
of the shops are closed, and hundreds of houses are un-
tenanted, and in a state of decay. The streets are broad
and paved, and many of them have a stream of water run-
ning through their centre. It is not, however, a clean-
looking city, fpr these streams are used for very disgusting
purposes, and buzzards are seen feeding all over the city.
The style of building is well adapted to the climate and
nature of the country. Most of the dwellings are of two
stories, with a spacious court in front ; the main object of
these courts, is to afford the inhabitants a place of refuge
v/hen the city is threatened with earthquakes, which is a
very frequent occurrence. The material employed in the
construction of the walls, is sun-burnt brick. The roofs
are perfectly flat, and the ground-floor is used as store-
rooms and stables.

The population is estimated at 40,000. In the time of
the Viceroys, it is said to have been 70,000.

The Grand Plaza contains several acres, and should be
visited by the stranger, if he wishes to form a correct idea
of a life in Lima. From sunrise to sunset it is filled with
people. On two sides of the Plaza stand the portales, or
arcades, where all kinds of dry-goods and fancy articles
are sold. The cathedral and the arch-bishop's palace oc-
cupy the east side of the plaza, and that of the viceroy's
the south side ; this last has now become the residence of
the presidents, and, although it covers a great extent of
ground, there is nothing very attractive in its architecture.
The fountain in the centre of the plaza is a splendid piece
of work, and was erected, according to the inscription, in

58 LIMA.

1600, by Don Garcia Sarmiento Sotomayer, the then Yice-
roj, and Captain-General of Peru.

In this plaza, the Saya y Manta, or the peculiar dress of
the Lima ladies, is seen to the best advantage. It is cer-
tainly a very bewitching attire, for it betrays the whole
outline of the female figure ; neither does it conceal the
foot and ankle, which, when prettily shaped, (and those of
the Liminean ladies are rarely otherwise,) are a charming-
sight, especially to bachelors ; but, on the other hand, the
Saya y Manta ofi"ers strong inducements to carry on a love-
intrigue, and for that reason was once put under the ban
of a legislative statute. It still survives, however, and is
worn by the ladies of the best families. It consists of a
kind of hood and a petticoat, both usually made of black
satin, with numerous vertical folds. The manta, or upper
garment, is fastened at the waist, and is so gathered over
the head and shoulders as to conceal every thing but the
right eye and the right hand. The disguise is so complete
that a husband may meet his wife in the streets, or any of
the public places, w^ithout being able to recognize her ;
and it is, no doubt, too true, that it has been the means
of destroying the peace and happiness of many a Limi-
nean family. It is asserted that the original intention ot
this singular costume, was to enable a lady to go out in the
morning to mass, or shopping, before she made her toilet.

The Almeda is extensive and handsomely laid out. The
walks are lined with rows of willow^s on each side ; its
centre is ornamented with fountains, and artificial streams
of water run parallel wdtli the walks. Towards evening it
is very much resorted to by the ladies and gentlemen, and
I have seen there some of the former, who were really
beautiful. The women of Lima are usually handsome, but

Pizarro.

Lima Coslumrs.

LIMA. 59

their minds are neglected, nor are their morals what they
should be.

There are other sights in Lima vf ell worth seeing ; among
the rest, the Convent of St. Francisco, which covers about
eight acres of ground. In former times it must have been
equal to anything of the kind in the w^orld. Its cloisters
are ornamented with fountains and flower-gardens, and the
chapels are rich in gilding and carved work. Part of the
convent is now occupied as barracks, and the soldier's mus-
kets are stacked on the altars of several of the chapels.
We observed in the church a shrine and an image of St.
Benedict, with a jet-black infant Saviour in his arms!
There are but few Friars here at present, but in the days of
its prosperity there were four hundred connected with it,
and had an income suited to the easy and luxurious style
in which they lived. Its collections of paintings have been
highly spoken of by connoisseurs.

I attended the theatre several times ; it is a spacious, hand-
some edifice, and seemed to be well supported, although the
performances were of a very ordinary character. The act-
ing president, Lafuente, was present each time, dressed in
his uniform ; but he did not appear to receive much atten-
tion from the audience, and I was subsequently told that he
was not generally popular with the people, as he was in
favor of the Chilians, and, in fact, owed his present position
to them. He has the Spanish features, and appears to be
about fifty years of age. The ladies in the galleries wore
the saya and manto, and made great display in ornaments.

During our stay in Lima there were no bull-baits,
although it is a common and a favorite amusement with
all classes of society.

The present state of Peru is far from being promising, if
we may be allowed to judge from what we saw and heard

GO PRESENT STATE OF PERU.

d tiring our stay in the country. The Chilian army was still
quartered in Lima, at the expense of its devoted inhabitants.
Public confidence was destroyed, commerce at a stand, the
mines were neglected, the people looked discouraged, and
war with Bolivia was inevitable, unless Gamara, the present
incumbent and usurper, placed by force in the presidential
chair by the Chilians, w^as removed. The most uncompro-
mising hostility is evinced by the Bolivian government to-
wards the administration of this president ; and we were
assured, both by intelligent natives and foreigners, that
until he shall be banished from the country, no reconcilia-
tion of affairs can take place between the two governments.
The English, also were very clamorous, and threatening to
sieze upon the revenue of the country, if their claims were
not speedily attended to. Indeed, it seemed to have every
trouble before it. The people are as yet in infancy as re-
gards self-government. Instead of taking matters in their
own hands, they allow themselves to be governed by a fac-
tion of military men, v/hose only desire is their own self-
aggrandizement. A few months since they met to make
some new elections, but they allowed Gamara to overthrow
them, and by force of arms destroy their ballot-boxes ; and
nothing is more common than to hear of officers being ex-
iled, and rich citizens stripped of their wealth, merely for
their political opinions. ISTor is this all : — The depraved
morals of the church are proverbial in Peru ; and there
is scarcely a crime perpetrated of which its members
are not guilty. Even on the Sabbath the priests may be
seen resorting to the theatres, billiard-rooms, and gamb-
ling-houses. The public revenue of this fine country is im-
posed in the mest oppressive manner, and impoverishes the
people from whom it is collected. The hordes of robbers it
nourished during the revolutionary vrar, still continue to

LOSS OF THE SEA-GULL. 61

annoy its peace ; and there is, perhaps, no country in the
world where murder and robbery are so prevalent. Until
a better state of things be brought about, its improvement
is hopeless.

On the 11th of June the " Porpoise" arrived from Val-
paraiso. She reported that the " Yincennes," " Peacock,"
and "Flying-Fish," were to have followed her in a few
days. As for the " Sea-Gull," she had not been seen or
heard from since the time she was separated from the
" Flying-Fish" in a storm off Cape Horn.

On the JL9th the " Peacock" arrived, and the United
States ship "Lexington" sailed for the coast of California.
The following report was now very current, namely, that
as soon as the " Yincennes" arrived, this ship would be
detached from the squadron, and ordered to return home.

June 20th the " Yincennes" made her appearance, and
anchored near us. We understood she left Lieut. Thomas
Craven at Valparaiso, with orders that if the " Sea-Gull"^^'
did not arrive there by a certain time, to charter a vessel
and go in search of her. It was the opinion of many of
the officers that she was lost.

On the 21st I received orders to report for duty on board
the " Peacock," it having been decided that the " Eelief '
should return to the United States, after taking a cargo of
stores for the expedition, to Sydney, New South Wales.

* She did not arrive at Valparaiso at the appointed time, and Lieutenant Craven acted
agreeably to his orders ; but he could neither find or hear anything of her.

62 ISLAKD OF CALEEMONT TONNEREE.

CHAPTER Y.

FROM CALLAO TO SOCIETY ISLANDS.

At 5.30 P. M., July 13tli, we quitted Callao, with a light
breeze from the southward and westward, " Yincennes,"
^'Porpoise," and " Fljing-Fish," in company.

The day following, it being Sunday, Mr. Elliot, the chap-
Iain of the " Yincennes," came on board and performed
divine service.

August 5th. During this day the heat was exceedingly
oppressive, although the thermometer did not at any time
stand higher than 80°. In the evening zodiacal lights were
visible until half-j)ast eight. In the course of the night
many meteors were observed, some of which were remark-
able for their brilliancy. At meridian, the latitude was
18° 08' 30" south, and longitude 122° 25' 45" west.

August 13th. At 1.30 P. M., made the Island of Ca-
lermont de Tonnerre, bearing west-by-south half-south,
distant about six miles.

At first sight the island appeared like a forest growing in
the middle of the ocean, so low is the land. It is of coral-

*The collected labors of united lithophytes raise their cellular dwellings on the
crust of submarine mountains, until after thousands of years the structure reaches
the level of the ocean, -vrhen the animals which have formed it die, leaving a low,
flat coral island. How are the seeds of plants brought so immediately to these new
shores'? — by wandering birds, or by the winds and waves of the ocean? The distance
from other coasts makes it difficult to determine this question ; but no sooner is tha
newly raised islands in direct contact with the atmosphere, than there is formed on
its surface, in our northern countries, a soft, silky net-work, appearing to the naked
eye as colored spots and patches. Some of these patches are bordered by single or
double raised lines running round the margins ; other patches are cjossed by similar lines
traversing them in various directions. Gradually the light color of the patches becomes

PAUMATO GROUP. C3

formation, with an extensive lagoon'''' in the centre, and is
encircled by reefs and rocks, against which the surf beats
with great violence. At 5 A. M., tried the current, and
found it setting north-west-by-west half-west, one fathom
per hour. Wishing to survey the island, we " lay-to "
durino; the nio-ht.

August 14th and 15th. At early daylight made all sail
and stood for the island we discovered yesterday, and by
10 A. M. were so near it that we could distinguish with
the naked eye the natives standing on the beach. These
savages walked about in groups, and appeared to be armed.
At 11 A. M., we proceeded witli the rest of the squadron
to take our station for surveying. In the afternoon several
of the "Yincennes" boats effected a landing, but were
not very courteously received by the natives. They as-
sembled in considerable numbers on the beach, and com-
manded our people to return to the ships. Finding the
order was not heeded, they commenced throwing stones
at the boats and brandishing their spears, nor could they
be induced to desist, until a musket or two, loaded with

darker, the bright yellow which was visible at a distance changes to brown, the bluish
gray of the lepraides becomes a dusty .black. The edges of neighboring patches approach
and run into each other ; and on the dark ground thus formed there appear other lichens
of circular shape, and dazzling whiteness. Thus, an organic film or covering, establishes
itself by successive layers, and, as mankind in forming settled communities, pass through
different stages of civilization, so is the gradual propagation and extension of plants con-
nected with determinate physical laws — Humboldt.

According to another high authority, (Charles Darwin,) the process of formation is the
following : — He supposes a mountainous island, surrounded by a coral reef, (a fringing
reef attached to the shore,) to undergo subsidence ; the fringing reef which subsides with
the island is continually restored to its level by the tendency of the coral-animals to regain
the surface of the sea, and becomes thus, as the island gradually sinks and is reduced in
size, first, an '• encircling reef," at some distance from the included islet, and subsequent-
ly when the latter has entirely disappeared, an atoll. According to this view, in which
islands are regarded as the culminating points of a submerged land, the relative positions
of the different coral-islands would disclose to us that which we could hardly learn by the
sounding-line, concerning the configuration of the land, which was above the surface of
the sea at an earlier epoch.

* Lagoon, is the Spanish word for Lake.

64 PAUMATO GROUP.

blank cartridge, had been discharged at them. It was re-
marked that these islanders were in general tall and ex-
ceedingly well-formed. Their complexion was dark-brown,
and their hair black and straight. The chiefs had their hair
drawn back and tied in a knot behind ; the others had
theirs hanging loose. Their bodies were perfectly naked,
except around the waist, to which was fastened a small
maro made of leaves. ]^o .tattooing was observed upon
either the men or women. The dress of the latter con-
sisted of a piece of tapa, large enough to cover nearly the
whole body.

The spear appeared to be the onlj^ weapon which they
possessed ; these were from ten to fifteen feet long, and
pointed at both ends. They understood and spoke the
Tahitian dialect.

Throughout the night we observed a large number of fires
burning on the beach, which we concluded were alarm-fires.

August 16th. At 9 A. M., filled away, and steered for
Serle Island, and by noon came up with it, and com-
menced surveying operations. This ship had no commu- .
nication with the island, but the other vessels had, and
from them we learn that it has a few inhabitants, and
that they are of a more friendly disposition than those
found on Calermont de Tonnerre.

The island, according to our survey, is seven miles long
and one and a quarter in width. It is situated about
twenty-five miles to the northward and westward of Cal-
ermont de Tonnerre, and both its formation and vegetation
are similar to that island.

August 19th. This afternoon made Homden, or Dog
Island ; landed, and found it covered with trees and shrub-
bery, and abounding in turtles and birds — the latter being
so tame that they allowed themselves to be caught by the

PAUMATO GROUP. G5

hand ; the most conspicuous among them was the frigate-
bird. They were seen as they flew off inflating their huge
pouches, and looking as if they had a large bladder at-
tached to their necks. Immense quantities of flsh were
also found in the lagoon ; but human beings there were
none, or even the traces of any ; neither the remains of
huts, nor canoes, nor marks of flre, were anywhere visible.
There were a great many sharks both in the lagoon and
outside, and they were so ravenous as to bite at the oars
of the boats.

Large and valuable collections were made in all the sci-
entific departments. Som.e beautiful specimens of coral
were procured here.

Olir observations placed the island in latitude 14° 56'
00" south, and longitude 138° 48' 00" west.

August 23d. In the morning the barometer began to
fall rapidly, the horizon lowered to the southward and
eastward, and soon after the wind blew with such violence
as to compel us to close-reef the topsails. Towards noon
we discovered Disappointment Islands on the lee bow, and
in the course of the day frequently observed the natives
standing on the beach and cautiously watching oxir move-
ments.

These islands are two in number, called Wytohee and
Otoohoo, and were discovered in 1765. They trended
nearly east and west, and are bounded by reefs and rocks.
They are well covered with trees of the cocoa-mit and
pandanus kinds.

About sunset, saw a canoe pulling along the shore.

Lay-to during the night, in order to survey the islands
the next day.

August 24th and 25th. At early daylight made all sail,
and stood in for the land. At 10 A. M., nine canoes, from

66 PAUMATO GKOUP.

two to three natives in each, came off to the ship. They
approached near enough to seize the ropes we threw them
to hold on by, but declined coming on board. They were
very gay and talkative, and every few minutes would en-
tertain us with a song which we supposed to have been
made up for the occasion, and to have an allusion to our
coming among them.

They were a good-sized people, with dark-brown com-
plexions, and lively, interesting countenances. Their hair
was black and a little curly. Some had beards and a
moustache. Their dress consisted of a piece of matting
fastened to the waist.

We very much admired their canoes ; they were beau-
tifully shaped, and so ingeniously put together that it was
some time before we Avere able to determine whether they
were formed of several pieces or one entire piece. They
were made of a number of pieces of cocoa-nut wood sewed
together with bark, and each was furnished with an out-
rigger. The paddles were from three to four feet long,
and the blade on one side was a little curved.

These natives knew the use of iron, and coveted its
possession so much, that even when we had our eyes upon
them they tried to steal all that came wdthin their reach ;
two men were seen twisting and pulling away at the
main-chain plates, while others tried to draw the bolts out
of the ship's side.

Their weapons w^ere spears and clubs, several of which
were purchased for the government. In the bows of
se\Feral of the canoes were some species of shell-fish, which
were intended as food.

Towards noon the canoes returned to the shore, and we
proceeded to ply to windward, in order to take our station
for surveying.

PAUMATO GKOUP. 67

When this was finished several of the scientific gentle-
men visited the largest of the islands — Wytoohee. They
had not been landed long when they encountered seven of
the inhabitants. These at first received them with an air
of resjDect blended with fear ; but when they were made to
understand that they had nothing to apprehend, they
smiled, rubbed noses'^* with the gentlemen, and then invited
them to their huts. There they spread mats for them to
sit on, and treated them with the milk of the fresh cocoa-
nut, which they found to be delicious.

'No women or children were seen, and the gentlemen
supposed they had been sent off by the men.

They were highly pleased with a chisel and some pieces
of iron that were given them. Their huts were inferior
to those seen about Cape Horn, and their baskets and other
articles were suspended on the trees.

The scientific gentlemen having returned, we resumed
our course.

Aug. 29th. This morning w^e made an island ahead
which is not marked on any of the charts ; considered it
a new discovery, and named it after the man who first re-
ported it in sight — King.

In the afternoon, Captains Wilkes and Hudson, and Lieu-
tenant Emmons and myself, effected a landing on the
w^estern side of the island. Near the beach we found the
remains of two huts and a canoe. Further on we saw some
fish-bones and a large heap of cocoa-nut shells, and also a
piece of a fishing-net. Proceeding then in a southeast
direction, we soon came to a lagoon, upon the shores of
which we found a raft and a large quantity of cocoa-nuts
— some of which, as might be supposed, we eagerly enough
took possession of. The lagoon was several miles in cir-

* This is the usual mode of salutation.

68 PAUMATO GROUP.

cumference, and, like all those we had seen before,
abounded in curious fish.

As it was already late in the day, and the ships " laying-
to" a considerable distance from our boats, we did not
deem it prudent to continue the examination. We were,
however, perfectly satisfied the island was uninhabited,
except by birds, turtles, and rats, and that the huts we
found near the beach had been erected by the men of
some vessel engaged in the pearl fishery.*

Though the soil was light, there was no want of vegeta-
tion. The cocoa-nut, pandanus, and other subjects of the
vegetable kingdom, grew in the greatest abundance in all
parts of the island. Fresh water, however, we saw none,
except here and there in pools. The shells found on the
beach were the turbo, volutis, venus, and the pearl oys-
ter.

At the distance of two hundred yards from the shore
w^e could find no bottom with the hand-lead ; boats may
approach very near the beach. Harbors there are none.
The whole island is of coral formation, and our observa-
tions placed it in latitude 15° M' 00" south, and longitude
14° 45' 15" west.

August 30th. During this day we had frequent showers
of rain. At 6 A. M., when King's Island bore northeast,
descried land bearing southwest — steered for it ; it proved
to be the island of Raraka. This island is very narrow,
and higher than any we have yet seen. There are a few
transient inhabitants on it, left by an English schooner in
quest of pearls — one of them is a white man, the others
are natives, of Taliati. In other respects it so much resem-

♦ The vessels engaged in this fishery belong to foreigners who reside at Tahiti. The
mode of taking the oysters is by natives, who are employed as divers for a small compen-
sation.

PAUMATO GKOUP. 69

bles the" island we discovered yesterday as to render any
further description unnecessary.

We made the Tahitians several presents, and they in
return gave us some hooks made of mother-of-pearl.

We observed on the beach two double canoes. Found
the position of the island to be, latitude 16° 03' 00" south,
longitude 145° 03' 00".

August 31st. We had scarcely quitted Raraka when
another island was descried to the northward and west*
ward, which was not laid down on the charts. It is very
long and narrow. In some places it is well clothed with
trees and other subjects of the vegetable kingdom ; in
others it is entirely naked. This is particularly the case
towards the northwest and westward, where it is so low
that the sea washes over it and forms large pools. Here
and there on the beach we observed large detached pieces
of coral, some of square shape, others round, and of a color
nearly black.

This island is destitute of harbors. The lagoon was
very extensive and apparently deep, and as far as the eye
could reach appeared entirely free from banks and rocks.
Koodies and Curlews were the only kind of inhabitants
we found on the island. E'ot a human being was seen any-
where, or even the traces of any.

We named the island Yincennes. It is situated in lati-
tude 16° OS' 04" south, and longitude 144° 59' 45" west.

September 3d. Having finished the survey of Yin-
cennes Island, we stood for Karlshofi''s Island, discovered
by the Russians. As we approached we perceived the
natives making signals to us to land, which invitation we
accepted. They received us kindly, inviting us to their
huts, and doing all in their power to render our stay agree-
able. They informed us that they emigrated from the

PAUMATO GROUP.

Chain Islands,"^ Their houses are little better than sheds,
but kept very clean ; the furniture consisted of some mats,
which were spread over the floor, some half-dozen glass
bottles, and a calabash or two, in which they keep their
water.

We obtained from them several pigs, some cocoa-nuts,
and a few shells. Of all the articles we ofiered them, they
gave a decided preference to calico, tobacco and knives.
Looking-glasses, beads, and such like trinkets, they would
scarcely receive. On taking leave of our friends, w^e took
a short walk into the interior of the island. It is well
covered with trees, among which the cocoa-nut makes a
conspicuous appearance. The lagoon is several miles in
circumference, and is w^ell-stored with fish, which consti-
tutes the princij^al food of the inhabitants.

September 6th. At an early hour commenced survey-
ing Waterland. This island was discovered by the Dutch,
and is situated in latitude 14° 26' 55" south, and longitude
145° 12' 00" west. It is covered with luxuriant vegeta-
tion, and has an extensive lagoon.

In the afternoon we landed on the western side, and
took a series of observations on the dipping-needle. Four
men were the only natives we saw here ; they very much
resembled those we found at Raraka.

One of the boats remained ashore a long time after the
signal for her return was made. The ofiicer in charge gave
as the cause for this, that he discovered that one of the
crew was missing, and he was waiting for him to return.
Some supposed that the man strayed from the boat, but 1
am of the opinion that he deserted. His name is Penny —

* These islands are under the government of Taliita. The inhabitants were formerly
cannibals ; but now missionaries are established among them, and they have made many
advances in civilization.

PAUMATO GROUP.

has been mncli among the islands engaged in the pearl-
fisheiy, and speaks the Tahitian language well.

September 7th. During this day we surveyed and ex-
amined another island, not down on the charts. We found
it pretty much the same as the rest, with no inhabitants,
but bearing evident marks of its being recently visited by
pearl-fishermen. The lagoon terminates within a few yards
of the sea-shore, and is so shallow that it can be forded.
Xumbers of cocoanut-trees were found growing on the
margin.

to'

Captain Wilkes, with several of the Yincennes officers,
landed here to observe the eclipse of the sun, just as we
got into our boat to return to the ship. We named the
island after our ship — Peacock. It is situated in latitude
14:° 32' 00'' south, and longitude 146° 20' 45" west.

September 8th. At 7 A. M. made Eurick Island, dis-
covered by Captain Kotzbue, of the Russian service. Soon
after sent two boats to examine it, but only one succeeded
in effecting a landing, on account of the violence of the
surf. The place was a small cove, round the shores of
which were a number of houses, and hard by a fine cocoa-
nut grove. ]^o people were to be found in any of These
houses, but the other boat saw plenty along the beach ;
they appeared to be a mild, inoffensive people. "No arms
were seen about them.

September 9th. During these twenty-four hours we
made a flying survey of Dean's Island. Judging from
appearances (for the weather would not permit our leaving
the ship), the character of this island is similar to those
which have been already described.

We are now clear of the Coral Islands, and really we are
glad of it. They soon ceased to interest us ; nay, towards the
last we almost sickened at the very sight of them ; they all

72 ISLAND OF AUEORA.

seemed to us alike. In vain did we look for a change or
variety ; tliej invariably presented the same uniform ap-
pearance, the same miiform flatness, the same scenery.

September 10th. This morning we found ourselves in
sight of the island of Aurora. In many places the coast
of this island rises abruptly and precipitately from the sea
to the height of six or seven hundi-ed feet ; the interior is
diversified with hill and dale, thus forming a pleasing con-
trast to the dull and monotonous scenes we had been ac-
customed to for some time past. The soil in the valleys is
fertile, and produces abundance of sweet potatoes, yams,
and tarro, as also several kinds of fruit.

The inhabitants are of a Tahitian extraction, and like
them have embraced Christianity, and established schools.
All the men we saw, and most of the women, were tattooed.
In trading with them, we found that they preferred old
clothes and cotton-stuffs to anything else. They took us
for missionaries at first, and I believe that many of them
are of that opinion still, a circumstance which shows that
their intercourse with the whites has been confined to that
class of men. Indeed, this can never be very extensive,
as th? island aflbrds no harbors.

When the boats which had been sent ashore to take
some observation returned, we made all sail again, and
stood for Tahiti.

" Huzza for Otabeite ! was the cry,
As stately swept the gallant vessel by ;
The breeze spriogs up, the lately flapping sail
Extends its arch before the growing gaje."

ARRIVAL AT TAHITI. VS

CHAPTER VI.

l-ROM ARRIVAL AT TAHITI TO DEPARTURE FOR TUTUILLA.

At 5 P. M., September 12tli, we at length reached Tahiti,
and anchored in Matavai Bay, in fourteen fathoms water.
The shores of this island, as far as we could see, were well
clothed with the tropical trees peculiar to Polynesia, but the
interior appeared very uneven, and was almost destitute of
other vegetation than that of grasses. Many of these hills are
very curiously shaped — some are conical, some pyramidal,
others castellated.

A coral-reef, with occasional openings, surrounds the island.
Between this and the shore there is a continuous channel for
boat-navigation, and on the northern side there are many safe
and commodious harbors for large vessels.

The fertile portion of the island lies in the valleys, and in
the plain which extends from the sea-shore to the base of tho
mountains. These produce tropical plants in great abundance
and luxuriance, and are well watered.

The cottages of the natives are to be found in retired and
beautiful spots. They are indolent, but are mild and amiable
people.

We had no sooner let-go the anchor than we were environed
with canoes, laden with poultry, pigs, tarro, yams, bananas,
cocoa-nuts, via apples and oranges. Yet, notwithstanding
this profusion, we found everything very dear. There were
from two to three men in each canoe, few only had any women

ISLAND OF TAHITI.

in them, and these, if we may be allowed to judge from their
behavior, -were not the most chaste. They wore a loose
dress resembling a night-gown, and bad their hair decorated
with a profusion of flowers. The Tahitian women are very
fond of flowers, but the use of them in dress has been dis-
couraged by the resident missionaries, who have declared that
such vanities are unbecoming Christians. Consequently, when
they are to appear before their teachers, they dispense with
this simple and harmless ornament.

The governor of the district of Matavai, Taua, called on
us at an early moment. He came alongside in a whale-boat,
and it was soon found that his visit was not one of mere cere-
mony, but was intended to engage our washing, a business
which is monopolized by the chiefs. He is a large, fine-looking
man, about 45 years of age. He was dressed in a striped
cotton-shirt, nankeen pantaloons, and a round jacket of blue
cloth. He has a large establishment near Point Venus, and
he invited the ofiicers to come there whenever they visited the

shore.

About dusk some dozen women, of a character similar to
those above alluded to, came alongside, and applied for per-
mission to come on board, but finding their request could not
be granted they returned to the shore again. Several of these
females were certainly not more than twelve or thirteen years
of age. Were all visitors to act in like manner, these de-
praved females would not be so numerous as they are at
present ; but, I regret to say, that the opposite course is usu-
ally pursued. It is due to the missionaries to state such facts,
for they certainly add very much to their other difficulties, in
trying to improve the moral and religious condition of the
natives. Who will deny that bad example may not prove
even more potent than the most wholesome teachings 1

ISLAND OF TAHITI.

September 13th. This morning the sick were sent on
shore, where they will have more comforts than it is possible
for them to receive on board the ship. The climate here is
said to be uncommonly salubrious, and invalids coming from
other parts rapidly recover their health.

After quarters we gave the natives permission to come on
board with their merchandise. Some supposed this would
have a tendency to make them reduce somevrhat their exorbi-
tant prices, as it would give rise to competition ; it however
produced no such effect. Among other articles they brought
on board were several kinds of shells, which we had not seen
before. Some of them had also pearls for sale. They pro-
cure these when they are employed by European vessels that
are engaged in that trade.

In the afternoon I took a walk on the road leading to Pa-
peite, the capital of the island, situated about seven miles to
the westward of Matavai. I found the traveling exceedingly
bad, until I reached what is called " One- tree Hill." The
road, or rather path, difi&cult thus far from its steepness and
ruggedness, was rendered infinitely more so by the recent rains.
In some places it was so slippery that I was forced to make
use of my hands as well as feet. With the remainder of the
walk I was highly delighted. I sauntered along over a broad,
level road, lined on either side with groves of the orange and
bread-fruit trees, sprinkled with the habitations of the natives,
and intersected by numerous streamlets. Indeed, the scene
was one of the most beautiful I ever beheld.

The houses were all constructed in the primitive style,
which consists of an oval-shaped roof, supported by round
sticks, from two to three inches in diameter, placed some dis-
tance apart, so as to allow a free admission of air. Neat
grass paths, fringed with flowers, from the pure white to the

76 ISLAND OF TAHITI.

bright red and yellow, and filling the air with their sweet
odorSj lead from one house to the other through the groves,
while the surrounding trees were literally alive with songsters
of every plumage imaginable.

I entered several of the dwellings, and Avas received by the
inmates in the kindest manner. They treated me with the
milk of the fresh cocoa-nut and several varieties of fruits.
I did not see any cultivated land besides the little patches
atta-ched to each house ; these were planted with sweet pota-
toes, yams, and tarro.

On returning I called in at our observatory, erected on Point
Venus.* There were great numbers of men and vromen
assembled around it — the latter dressed in their best, and evi-
dently come to see and to be seen. Though many of them
were young, I observed none whose looks were deserving of
the high encomiums passed on them by the generality of for-
mer voyagers. There is a kind of languor about their eyes
that may be pleasing to some, and their feet and hands are also
small, but their figures are short, and the features are too
gross to be called handsome. A large number had their heads
decorated with wreaths composed of Cape jasmine and orange
flowers.

September 15th. It being Sunday to-day, the crew were
sent to the native chapel to attend divine service. Our chap-
lain performed the service, with the aid of Mr. Pratt, one of
the resident missionaries. This chapel is oval in shape and
spacious, and plastered, and white-washed on the outside ; the
roof is made of plaited reeds, and covered with the leaves of
the pandanus. The windows are furnished with blinds, but

* It was here that Captain Cook erected his Observatory. It is a low, narrow
tongue of land running out northward from the island, and is thickly covered with
eocoa-uut trees.

ISLAND OF TAHITI. 77

remain uDglazecl, as free circulation of air is here desirable at
all times. The interior is well supplied with benches, ar-
ranged in rows, so as to face the pulpit at the side. There is
no steeple to it.

Near bj the chapel is the residence of the Rev. Mr. Wil-
son, the only survivor of the missionaries who first came to the
island. Notwithstanding his great age, he continues to enjoy
good health, and to watch over the spiritual welfare of his
flock, which I understand is large.

It is worthy of remark, that although the day has been
Sunday with us, it has been Monday with the people a-shore,
a circumstance to be attributed to the first missionaries (who
arrived here by the way of the Cape of Good Hope) not having
made a proper allowance for the gain of time.

September 20th. This morning the " Vincennes " got
under-way, and ran up to Papeite. The females here have
certainly a very great passion for singing. Every evening
they assemble in great numbers down by the water-side, and
sing away for hours. Last night it was 2 A. M.j ere they
ceased. This would be a great annoyance to us were their
voices unmusical, but they are not. More soft, rich and clear
voices we have never heard in any part of the world. Besides,
they do not confine themselves to their national songs, but
occasionally, as if they wished that we should share with them
in their innocent amusement, strike up some one of our own
which they have learned from the whalers, and which seemed
to be as familiar to them as to any of us.

Papiete, September 24th. We arrived here a little after
meridian. When about two miles from the anchorage of Ma-
tavai, we passed two white-plastered buildings, shaded with a
variety of trees, one of them, we were informed by the pilot,
was the house of the queen; the other, the building in

rS ISLAND OF TAHITI.

which the remains of the Kings Pomare II. and III. were
deposited.

The next object that attracted our attention was the ruins
of the great chapel erected by Pomare II., after his conversion
to Christianity. The original size of this building is said to
have been immense.

The anchorage of Papiete is much superior to that of Ma-
tavai. There, when the wind blows fresh from the seaward,
vessels are exposed to a very heavy and dangerous swell;
here they lay perfectly protected from both sea and wind.
Indeed, there is but one objection to Papiete harbor — its
entrance is so very narrow, that unless there be a fair breeze
it is not accessible.

The town stretches around the curvature of the shore form-
ing the harbor, and presents many evidences of civilization.
Many of the houses are built in the European style, and the
native church is really a fine building. Several of these
houses are owned by natives, but they rarely occupy them
themselves, as they prefer those constructed in the primitive
style, which, indeed, are better adapted to the climate of the
island. They keep them to rent out to foreigners.

The adjacent country does not differ materially from that
about Matavai.

In the centre of the harbor there is a charming little island,
upon which the Tahitian national standard was waving to the
breeze as we entered. This flag displays a white star on a red
field, and owes its origin to the missionaries. The people here
promise to be less troublesome than those were about Matavai.
We have seen but few of them alongside, and none on board.

Soon after we came to anchor, we received a present from
the queen, consisting of pigs, cocoa-nuts, bananas, and other
products of the islands.

ISLAND OF TAHITII.

I understand that yesterday Captain Wilkes had an inter-
view mill the principal chiefs, and succeeded in forming a
commercial treaty with them, which promised to be highly
advantageous to both nations.

October 3d. During these past four or five days nothing
remarkable has transpired. This evening some dozen natives
came on board, and gave us one of their old dances. After
they had seated themselves round in a ring, they commenced
making a kind of grunt, or noise, made by the throat and
nostrils, accompanied with motions of the arms and fingers, by
throwing them about in all directions. This they continued
for some minutes, when the noise gradually became louder and
louder, and the gestures more violent, until at last they wrought
themselves to the highest pitch of excitement, and looked as if
it was the greatest effort to keep it up ; every blood-vessel was
much swollen, and the perspiration ran in streams down their
faces. At this time two of the party sprung up into the
middle of the ring and began dancing, and making all sorts of
grimaces and most violent licentious motions of the body;
the noise still increasing, all the others rose up in the same
manner. It now appeared to have attained its highest pitch ;
it became by degrees less and less, until it almost died away,
when they kicked up their heels and fell on deck, which was
the signal that they had finished.

October 6th. This afternoon Pomare Taire, or the king
consort, arrived from Eimeo, where he has been residing for
some time past. He came in a small fore-and-aft schooner.

When Pomare III., only surviving son of Pomare II., died,
he was succeeded, in the supreme authority of the islands of
Tahiti, Eimeo, &c., &c., by the present queen, under the style
of Pomare Vahina IV. of Tahiti.* She is about 28 years of

* The Crown is hereditary — descending either to males or females.

80 ISLAND OF TAHITI.

age, and has been twice married — the first time to a young
chief of Taha, from whom she was divorced. She was mar-
ried to her present husband about two years since, and thus
far the union has proved a happy one. She has several chil-
dren, one of whom is a son. I have been informed that she
possesses many excellent qualities, and is much beloved by her
people.

October 7th. This morning the king-consort and Mr.
Pritchard, H. B. M. consul, came on board, and breakfasted
with Captain Hudson. The king is probably 23 years of age,
well formed, and rather good-looking. His dress showed no
evidence of liis rank ; it consisted of a calico shirt, brown drill-
ing pantaloons, a black bombazuie jacket, and straw hat. He
wore no stockings, and his shoes were old and patched, which
induced our good purser to make him a present of a new pair.
When breakfast was over, he went round to look at the sliip,
with which he appeared much pleased.

Mr. Pritchard was formerly connected with the mission.
His house is decidedly the best I have seen on the island ; he
owns large tracts of land, and he is said to exercise much
influence over the queen and the government.*

At 10 o'clock the king left the ship, accompanied by
Captain Hudson.

• The Government is a Constitutional Monarchy. Tahiti now belongs to the French.

ARRIVAL AT TUTUILLA. 81

CHAPTER VII.

FROM TUTUILLA TO AUSTRALIA, OR NEW SOUTH WALES.

At 9 p. M.j October 10th, we bade adieu to Tahiti, and
steered to the westward.

On the 18th we descried land, bearing northwest, which
proved to be Tutuilla, one of the Samoan, or Navigator
Islands. At meridian kept away for it, and shortly after-
ward anchored in the harbor of Pango-Pango. We had no
diflSculty in entering this port. The principal danger is a
large rock, which is situated near the middle of the passage ;
but is easily seen, as the surf breaks upon it at all times.

It is a beautiful harbor ; the land all around rises abruptly,
some places perpendicularly from the water to the height
of a thousand feet or more, and everywhere it is covered
with the most luxuriant vegetation ; even the rocks are covered
with festoons of creeping-plants. It likewise abounds in fresh
water ; several fine streams are visible from our decks.

The shores are thickly studded with houses, and they differ
materially in shape and construction from any we have before
seen. They are circular in form, with a high conical roof
coming down to about five feet from the ground — the space
between the eves and the ground being shut in by mats, which,
when the weather is pleasant, are rolled back, and thus the
fresh breeze circulates through every part of the dwelling.

There are many runaway sailors, and some Botany Bay
convicts, living on this island.

82 ISLAND OF rUTUILLA.

October 19tli. This day we visited the village, situated at
the head of the bay. It contains about forty houses, all con-
structed after the manner before described, save that of Mr.
Murray, the resident missionary. This is built after the
English cottage-style, painted white, and surrounded by a
wooden paling. The interior aspect of the native buildings
varies according to the circumstances of the owner. If he be
rich, the floor is covered with the finest quality of mats, and
presents an air of great neatness throughout. If poor, the
floor remains uncovered, and but little attention is paid to
cleanliness or order.

We saw in the Council-House a war-canoe, which was
capable of carrying fifty warriors. It is said that every vil-
lage on the island has one of these council-houses. They are
the places Avhere the chiefs and other principal men meet to
discuss all matters concerning the state. The one here stands
near the landing, has a circular shape, and is capable of con-
taining several thousand people.

Curiosity brought crowds of men, women, and children
around us. They are not in general as well-formed people as
the Tahitians, and we observed that very many of them were
afflicted with ophthalmia and elephantiasis. Their dress con-
sisted of long, narrow leaves, thickly strung on a piece of
bark, long enough to tie round the loins. All of them were
tattooed, more or less, about the legs and arms, but ornaments
they had none. Both men and women are fond of bathing,
and they spend much of their time in the water. They
seemed to have no idea of money, but set great value on every-
thing in the way of clothing and iron tools. They eagerly
exchanged their largest and finest-wrought mats for a hatchet,
or a plain iron ; ink and paper were also sought after by
some.

AN AMERICAN CITIZEN MURDERED. 83

On the afternoon of the 20th we sailed for the neighbor-
ing island, Upolu. A few days after the " Peacock's" arrival
here, an American, named Terry, gave information against a
native, who had murdered an American seaman that was living
on the island some twenty months before. Mr. Baldwin and
the master-at-arms, with several marines, were immediately
sent to secure him. After looking for him for some time, he
was pointed out to Mr. B., who arrested him and brought
him on board the ship, where he was confined and ironed.
Some days afterward Captain Hudson demanded an investi-
gation of the matter. On the 26th the chiefs assembled from
the different parts of the island in the Council-House. The
missionaries, Messrs. Williams and Mills, and Mr. Cunning-
ham, H. B. M. Vice- Consul for the Samoan Islands, were
present, and offered to act as interpreters during the investiga-
tion between Captain Hudson and the chiefs. The prisoner
was sent for on board the ship, and brought before the assem-
bly in charge of an ofiicer, and a file of marines. He owned
that he committed the murder, and assigned his reason for
doing it. He wanted, he said, to get possession of the white
man's property. This admission established the guilt of the
prisoner, and Captain Hudson decided that he must die ; but
the chiefs expressed great repugnance to this punishment, and
proposed buying him ofi" with mats, tappa, &c., according to
the Samoan custom. Captain H. told them the Christian
custom was to take life for life ; therefore they must punish
him with death. After much deliberation the chiefs approved
of the sentence, but objected to its being carried into execu-
tion on shore. They again asserted that they knew no such
laws, and strenuously urged that the criminal should be car-
ried on board the ship and executed there. To this it was
replied that the execution must take place on shore, in order

84 ISLAND OF UPOLU.

til cat the people might see what they had to expect -when they
killed an American citizen.

It was believed by the officers of this ship that the chiefs
would have finally complied with all of Captain Hudson's de-
mands, had the " Vincennes" kept out of the way, but she
now made her appearance, and upon its being reported to
Captain Wilkes what was going on, he repaired to the Council-
House, and after holding a private interview with Captain
Hudson, ordered the prisoner to be returned to the " Peacock,"
at the same time requesting Mr. Mills to state to the assembly
that the criminal would be taken away from Upolu, and left
on some uninhabited island.

Upolu is one of those islands which, together with Savi,
Tutuilla and Manono, constitute that group of islands which
go under the cognomen of " Navigator's Group." The soil
is, generally speaking, very fertile, being in most parts com-
posed of a dark, rich mould, from which spring spontaneously
a strong luxuriant vegetation of perpetual verdure. This
manifests itself in various species of grass, shrubbery, fruit
trees, and forest timber.

From the location of the island, almost in the centre of the
tropics, it might be inferred that an atmosphere of very high
temperature must be the necessary consequence. Such, how-
ever, is not the fact. Experience has shown that it is more
temperate than many regions beyond the torrid zones. The
hour of greatest heat is about 3 o'clock P. M., when the
thermometer averages Y8° of Fahrenheit. Earthquakes are
frequent, though not violent.

By far the largest portion of the inhabitants live on the
Bea-coast, because they have there great facilities for fishing.
They construct their houses after the manner of those we saw
at Tutuilla. The men only are tattooed, and the part of the

ISLAND QF UPOLU. 85

body tlius ornamented is from the waist to the knee. It is
very tastefully done, and one would imagine it to have been
adopted in imitation of breeches. It does, in fact, somewhat
abate the appearance of nakedness, and thus give an air of
decency. It is the ceremony of initiation into manhood. Fish
is an almost daily article of food with those who live on the
coast. They have various ways of catching these ; 'they use
the hook, net, and spear, and for lobsters, &c., a kind of a
trap-basket. They construct also a sort of pond, or inclosure
of mats and- cocoa-nut branches, leaving one end open. A
party then spread about, and drive the fish in, and thus often
inclose a large number at once.

Their manufactures consist of mats, cloth, and baskets.
This is the work of women ; they make various sorts of
mats — some of the strong leaf of the pandanus, in nearly its
full breadth, for spreading on the floor — some of the same leaf
split into small shreds for sleeping upon. A much finer mat,
the weaving of which will occupy a woman twelve or eighteen
months, is woven with the same leaf into very narrow pieces,
which are made tough and durable by being baked in an oven,
and then soaked in sea-water. The mat is so fine as to be
almost as pliable as linen. These are the dresses on special
occasions — the common one being like that we saw worn by the
people of Tutuilla. They look very rich and elegant, espe-
cially when trimmed with red or yellow feathers.

The Tapa is made as elsewhere from the Chinese paper-
mulberry. This is also in extensive use for clothing and bed-
covering. They print some of it in neat patterns, and dye
some pieces all black, or brown. It wears better than the
cloth made at Tahiti.

Nets are made from the bark of the hibiscus, a tree which
is very common. Their construction is very much the same

86 ISLAND OF UPOLU.

as the ordinai-y fishing-net in use among us, TV'ith stones in-
stead of bits of lead, and pieces of light wood instead of cork.
The making of these is a distinct trade. They also make
from the above materials some very neat and useful baskets.

Their food is prepared in the "way practised in Tahiti, and
they have many dishes which are rich and agreeable to the
palate.

The women are treated with as much consideration as in
any part of the world, and are not suffered to do any out-door
work. They are cleanly in their habits, and bathe daily, after
which they anoint themselves with oil and turmeric. The
girls are pretty, and quite modest. Their complexion is a
hghter brown than that of the Tahitian women. It is the
practice of mothers here to suckle their children until they
are five or six years of age, and I myself saw a woman who
gave nourishment to two children of difierent ages at once.

The mariage-vow is observed with strict fidelity. The
usual mode of courtship is for the man to take a basket of
fruit and ofier it to the object of his choice. If the young
woman partakes of it, his addresses are favorably received,
and he applies to his chief for permission to marry. When
this is granted, he calls on the parents of the girl, and pays
them a stipulated price for her, which varies with the re-
spectability and circumstances of her family. The ceremony
is concluded with a grand feast, to which the relatives and
acquaintances of the parties are invited.

Children are brought up without severity. As soon as the
boy can make use of his hands and feet, his father furnishes
him with a little bow and arrow, and exercises him in shooting
at a target, or throwing stones at a mark by the sea-side.

Their burials are conducted as follows : — The body is
enveloped in several thicknesses of tapa, and placed in a grave

ISLAND OF UPOLU. 87

about three feet deep, with flowers and shrubbery planted
around. No arms, or food is deposited with the bodies ; for,
according to their belief, they have all these things provided
for them in the world of spirits. After the body has lain in
the grave a year or two, they take up the skull and place it in
a box in their houses. The object of this practice, I am told,
is to prevent their enemies obtaining possession of them in
times of war, when it is a common custom to violate the
sanctity of the grave. The relatives of the deceased show
their grief by burning themselves and scratching their faces.

Their amusements consist of dances, wrestling-matches,
sham club-fights, and a variety of games. All the dances
I saw were very indecorous, so much so as to make it improper
to attempt a description of them here. Young women had a
share in them, and it seemed to me that their attitudes were
of a character still more disgusting than those of the men.
The music accompanying the dances consisted of drums,*
flutes,t and singing. It is said that the sham-fights sometimes
last a whole day, and usually end in bloody noses and broken
heads and limbs. Their arms consist of spears, clubs, bows
and arrows. The spear is pointed with bone, and is con-
sidered a very formidable weapon.

The government resembles the early state of the European
nations under the feudal system. Their orders of dignity
answers to barons, vassals, and villeins. Great respect is paid
to the chiefs, and particularly to the highest class. The
" Tuper," or barons, are lords of the several districts into
which the island is divided. The vassals superintend the cul-
tivation of the ground, and the villeins, or the common people,
perform all the laborious work. The whole power lies in the

* The Samoan drum is made of a piece of wood hallowed out.
t This flute is made of bamboo.

88 ISLAND OF UPOLU.

chiefs of the first class. Theu' meetings are called " Fonos,"
which signifies in English, a General Assembly. The eldest
chief present presides, and they are conducted with much
ceremony. The person who wishes to speak must first obtain
the permission to do so from the presiding chief. The common
people are required to stand at a respectful distance from the
chiefs, nor can an inferior chief stand or lie down before a
superior one. It is the custom, before the Fono proceeds to
business, to compliment the presiding chief, and to invoke
blessings on him that his life may be prolonged and pros-
perous.

The most usual forms of punishment for crimes, are cutting
ofi" the nose and ears of the ofiender, flogging, exposure of the
naked body to the sun, confiscation of property and banish-
ment. Adultery is punishable with death. The punishment
for murder is not specified by law, but is left for the relatives
of the person slain to demand the atonement. Most gene-
rally, however, pardon is purchased for the murderer by his
friends, who, like himself, are liable to be revenged on by the
aggrieved party, so long as the afiair remains unsettled.

There are several missionary stations* on Upolu, and many
of the inhabitants have embraced Christianity. Those who
still adhere to their ancient religionf are called Devils. They
may be distinguished from the Christians by their hair,J
which they allow to grow luxuriantly all over the head ; they

* The first missionaries to these islands belonged to the Weslej'an denomination,
but they were soon after succeeded by those of the English Board, the. Wesley ans
abandoning the field for that of the Fejee Group. They are much respected by
the natives, and their labors have been attended with beneficial results.

t It very much resembles the religion of most heathen nations. Its divinities are
the ofl'prings of fear. The Priesthood is hereditary. The priests are the men of
science, and to their care are intrusted all the sick, whom they attempt to cure by
ridiculous ceremonies and enchantments.

t The Christians cut their hair short, and have abandoned their old dances.

PUT THE MURDERER ON SHORE. 89

r ^ - , ■

are also more indolent and less intelligent than those of their
brethren who have been converted.

During our stay at Upolu the trading-master was stationed
on shore daily, for the purpose of purchasing provisions for
the squadron. Here all sorts of articles were displayed ; but
those which took best with the natives were hatchets, knives,
blue nankeen, and chisels. Though the weather was gene-
rally unfavorable, we obtained very good rates for our chro-
nometers. The scientific gentlemen were constantly employed
in making excursions into the interior of the island, to collect
specimens and information in their respective departments.
Officers were also stationed on shore day and night for the
purpose of making observations on the tides. In short, every
exertion was made to promote the interests of the Expedi-
tion.

On the afternoon of November. 10th we proceeded to sea,
in company with the rest of the squadron.

On the 11th, I received orders to join the "Vincennes."
During the early part of this day we experienced a very heavy
shower of rain, accompanied with much thunder.

At 11.30 P. M., we arrived off Wallis Island. While we
were making a survey of this island, a canoe, paddled by two
men, came alongside, a circumstance which Captain Wilkes
availed himself of to land the native prisoner who killed our
countryman.

The island is well inhabited, but the two natives who came
off to the ship assured us that there was no communication
between it and the Samoan group. Tuvi — for that was the
prisoner's name — was kindly treated during his confinement on
board the " Peacock," and seemed much distressed in parting
with her officers and crew. He was about thirty years of age,
and had a wife and several children. His stature was that

90 AT SEA, OFF WALLIS ISLAND.

of an ordinary- sized man, and there was nothing of the sinister
expression in his countenance.

Walhs Island is situated in latitude 13° 24' 00" south, and
longitude 176° 09' 00" east. From the name one would
naturally suppose it was a single island. Such, however, is
not the case. It is a group of small islands encircled by one
extensive reef, against which the sw^ell of the ocean may be
seen breaking at all times. The native name of the principal
island is Wea, and it is tolerably high, but the others are
low, resembhng the Coral Island of the Paumato Group. All
are thickly covered with trees, and well inhabited. The two
natives who came on board informed us that there was a good
anchorage inside of the reef, and plenty of provisions to be had
from the inhabitants. It is said that the Catholic missionaries
who were expelled from Tahiti, were landed here, and that
they have made many converts among the natives. 4

When the survey was finished we again made all sail, and
stood to the southward.

On the following morning we passed Horn Island, dis-
covered about the year 1616, by Le Maire. It is high and
well wooded. As for the inhabitants, I am unable to speak
of them.

At early daylight on the 18th, Matthew's Rock was re-
ported in sight. We bore away for it, and when within half
a mile of its northernmost point, measured base by sound with
the " Peacock," and angled on it in order to fix its position.
A boat, with Drs. P. and F., was also sent to make an
examination of the rock. It is about half a mile in circum-
ference, and very steep and rugged ; our boat, therefore, found
great difficulty in effecting a landing. Here and there in spots
may be seen some soil bearing bushes. In general a naked-
ness of rock characterize the prospect. Immense numbers of

NEW SOUTH WALES. 91

birds were perched upon it. The boat having returned we
resumed our course.

On the 24th of November we experienced a severe thunder
storm. The ship was struck by lightning several times, and
the forward conductor was broken into many pieces, but
neither the rigging nor hull were damaged. The wind blew vio-
lently from the southwest, and during the continuance of the
storm the thermometer was observed, to fall from 85° to 69°.
After sunset, as the wind increased in strength, " all hands
were called," the topsails were close-reefed, and a signal
made for the rest of the squadron to adopt the same pre-
caution. Our position at meridian was, according to dead
reckoning, in latitude 32° 56' 00" south, and longitude 160*
20' 48" east.

Two days after this storm we passed Lord Howe's Island
an(J Ball's Pyramid, and several other small islands, called
Admiralty Rocks. The two first mentioned are high, bleak,
rugged rocks.

On the 27th we saw several fin-back whales, also a great
number of birds, among which were four or five very large
albatrosses.

At 10 A. M. on the 2Tth, we made the coast of New Hol-
land, or New South Wales, on the weather-beam. At 7.40
P. M. descried Sydney light-house, and at 9 called all hands
to work ship into port. We {hen stood for the harbor, and by
10.37 anchored in seven fathoms wa.ter ofi* the town of Sydney,
abreast of Fort M'Quarie, without any of her citizens, or
the garrison's being aware of our character. The " Pea-
cock" followed in our track, and anchored within a cable's
length of us. The remaining vessels came in the following
day.

The fact of our coming in here in the night, and that too

92 NEW SOUTH WALES.

"svitliout tlie aid of a pilot, appeared to have excited no little
sensation among the people on shore. Several of the news-
papers spoke of it next morning as something very remarkable,
and jocularly declared it to be a '' Yankee trick," done for
the purpose of saving the pilotage, and in perfect keeping with
our usual keenness in money matters. It would have been
rather a serious joke though, had the object of our visit been
hostile, for we might have possessed ourselves of the fort, and
then bombarded the town with the greatest ease.

Of this, however, they were as sensible as ourselves, and
the necessity of fortifying the harbor more effectually, and of
being more vigilant, became fully impressed upon their minds,
There are many excellent sites for fortresses, so that the
harbor might be rendered perfectly inaccessible to an enemy's
vessels.

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 93

CHAPTER VIII.

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND, OR THE LAND OF ANOMALIES.

While the Portuguese and the Spaniards, early in the
sixteenth century, were extending their enterprise through the
seas of the further east, rumors reached Europe of a new con-
tinent on the south. The navigator, driven by contrary winds
and currents beyond the bounds of his ordinary enterprise,
discovered different points of land, which, for a long period,
none endeavored to examine. The Spaniards had been navi-
gating the Indian Archipelago for more than eighty, and the
Portuguese for nearly a hundred years, before the name of
any mariner became connected with the discovery of Australia.
The unknown southern land, (Terra Australis incognito,) and
the southern land of the Holy Spirit, (Australia del Spiritu
Santo,) were indefinitely mentioned in their records, yet no ex-
plorer ventured to approach the mysterious coast, dimly seen
by the chance-voyager in those remote seas.

In 1605, however, the Dutch, eager to obtain a maratime
superiority in those distant regions, equipped the yatch " Duy-
fen," which sailed from the port of Bantam, in Java, to
explore the coast of New Guinea. Returning from this expe-
dition, the little vessel entered the waters of the shores of
Australia, and sailed into the great Gulf of Carpentaria. To
these early voyagers all seemed desolate and barren, for, since
the discovery of America, the voyage of Vasco di Gama, and
the exploration of the Indian Archipelago, the navigator con-
tinually thirsted for some new Chersonese, where gold was to

94 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND.

be found in every stream, where amber was washed up on the
beach, where spices perfumed the forests, and pearls were
plentiful in the shallow waters near the shore. The wild
aspect of the Australian coasts consequently offered little
temptation to them. Nevertheless, Spanish, Dutch, and
English mariners continued to visit those seas, Dampier,
between 1684 and ITOO, exploring a portion of the north-
western coast, and surveying it in the rude manner of his time.
Half a century of further research added little to the world's
knowledge of tliis great region ; but ITTO brought the advent
of Captain Cook, whose immortal memory is associated with
so many seas and shores. He discovered the eastern coast of
Australia from Cape Howe to Cape York, naming the region
New South Wales. Many successive voyagers followed, each
of whom contributed some tracing to the sea-board of this vast
territory, until Captain Stokes, about eight years ago, made the
entire circuit of the island, and first enabled the geographer ac-
curately to lay down the leading features of its mighty outhne.*
The daring navigators of Europe explored the shores of
Australia, marking its outlaying islands, endeavoring to dis-
cover the mouths of rivers, fixing the position of harbors, and
laying down the general outline of the island; while inland
discovery commenced much later, and made a slower progress.
In the south, ridges of hills were known to exist, and believed
to be impassable. Not lofty, but precipitous and rugged, they
were intersected by deep chasms and broad, barren valleys,
sprinkled with half-blasted trees, and piled with masses of
sandstone rock — landscapes sublime in their melancholy deso-
lation. The blue mountains, so named from their habitual

* To those familiar with the history of maratime discovery, the mention of such
names as New Holland, New South Wales, Tasmania, Van Dieman's Land, De Witts,
&c., will at once recall the numerous voyages and voyagers connected with the
gradual exploration of Australia.

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 95

aspect, were long considered impassable ; but when English
colonists in New South Wales were straitened for room, they
looked for wider pastures for their flocks, and more extensive
lands for the cultivation of corn and vegetables. Necessity
then opened a passage through the hills — the Bathurst plains
were discovered, and a stage-coach rattled along a well-made
road winding among the mountain-passes. In other directions
adventurous men, starting from different points, attempted to
explore the interior of Australia ; but as yet all have been
unsuccessful in their endeavors to reach the centre, and he
who traveled farthest, at the utmost point of his journey, has
only cast his eyes over a monotonous desert, apparently of
interminable extent.

Australia is situated in the immense ocean stretching to
the southeast of Asia, and lies in nearly the same latitude
as the Cape of Good Hope and Brazil. Equal in surface
to four-fifths of the European continent, it extends from
113° 05' 00" to 153° 16' 00" east longitude, and from
10° 39' 00' to 39° 11' 00" south latitude. The area is cal-
culated at 3,000,000 square miles, and the coast line at 7,750.
The whole of this immense mass of land is solid and compact,
broken by few indentations of the ocean.

The mariner, for the first time approaching Australia on
its western coast, perceives few of those natural charms
painted by so many writers. Alon^ these shores, even now
very rarely visited, there is little to allure the eye. A mono-
tonous plain, bounded in the distance by a chain of bleak
hills, stretches from the sea, and over the surface of this vast
level are scattered sweeps of ground blackened by the passage
of flames. The few wandering tribes leading a nomade life
in this part of the island, frequently, by accident, or inten-
tionally, kindle the tall, dry grasses or the low bush. The fire,

06 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND.

seizing greedily on the parched vegetation, travels with great
rapidity, and driven by the wind spreads to the base of the
hills, where the conflagration spends its fury. As we proceed
further northw^ard, the shores become strewn with enormous
masses of rock, extending to some distance from the beach.
It is supposed that formerly the land here was considerably
more elevated than at present, and that the action of water
has levelled it, leaving the more durable masses unremoved.
Some eminences, covered with a vegetation richer than that of
Brazil or Borneo, with occasional fertile plains, present them-
selves in marked contrast with the general aridity of the coast.

On the northern shores the same level prevails. Flinders
sailed 175 leagues without seeing any hill higher than the
mast of a sloop.

Along the Gulf of Carpentaria few elevations occur ; but
reaching the eastern coast, the view is no longer monotonous
or dreary. New scenes continually unfold themselves — forests
and open plains, and valleys ranning up between the hills,
and a more numerous population enlivening the country.
Passing between the shore and that great barrier-reef which
outlies the eastern coast of New Holland for more than six
hundred miles, we enter the principal field of British enter-
prise, where the coast is marked by a thousand fantastic
irregularities. A line of precipitous cliffs extends far towards
the south, a huge breach in this natural wall becomes appa-
rent ; and while the eye is resting on the grim magnificence of
these granite barriers, the vessel glides between the rocks,
and reposes in the superb harbor of Port Jackson. The
shore, sweeping in gentle slopes toward the hills, is covered
with a natural growth of verdure. The sea, blue and brilliant,
flows into beautiful bays, where vessels lie safe after their
long voyage from Europe. White stone-built villas, with

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 97

graceful gardens and groves, lend artificial charms to a land-
scape naturally picturesque ; and Sydney, the capital of New
South Wales, with, its forts and light-houses, its churches,
hospitals, and custom-house, full of traffic, and smoking in the
heat of industry, appears like the creation of enchantment.
The industry of Europe, planted in Australia, now ploughs
the sea between Port Jackson and Moreton Bay with steamers,
which prepare the mind for the scene presented within ; but
with this exception, the change from the outer view to the
panorama of Sydney, is as that from a lifeless desert to an
English seaport.

Towards the west the surface again becomes level — irregu-
larities are few — tall, sloping cliffs commence, and the country
sinks into a plain covered with scrub, and extending as far as
the south-western point of the island. There, rises a range of
low hills, continuing as far as Gautheaume Bay, where we reach
again the desolate level from whence our circuit commenced.

The streams in South Australia and Western Australia
are, in comparison, insignificant ; but it is a received opinion
among many geographers that great water-springs exist in the
island, which will ultimately burst from the earth, flow
together, form themselves channels, and find outlets at various
places along the coast. At x^resent, in the river-system of
Australia, as well as in its mountains,*^ valleys, and geolo-
gical formation, its botany and its zoology, we discover a
strong support of the theory that this region is of recent
emergence from the ocean. Formerly, Captain Sturt believes
it consisted of an archipelago of islands. The bed of the
ocean, upheaved by the agency of subterranean fires, raised

* In the countries of the ohi world, every range, however tortuous, agrees in general
direction with the length of the continent. In Australia the case is reversed — tha
hills run transversely froi>- north to south.

98 AUSTRALIA, OK NEW HOLLAND.

the whole to a level, and the action of the great sea sweeping
over it has produced these strange appearances, which have
earned for Australia its curious title — the Land of Anomalies.
The researches of travelers in the interior will at no distant
day, lay it open to examination ; and when the great doubt is
removed, science will explain with accuracy phenomena at the
present day so perplexing.

Eighty years ago the adventurous voyager. Captain Cook,
sailed along the eastern coast of Australia, and there, in
latitude 33° south, discovered a commodious inlet. Near the
water's edge he saw many curious flowers blooming wild, and
from them named the place Botany Bay. The account of his
visit was circulated in England, and, sixteen years later, it
was resolved to establish a colony in some part of the unknoAvn
southern land. Botany Bay was thought of. In 1787, the
" Sirius " and the " Supply," with six transports and three
store-ships, sailed with the germs of a new colony on board.
Besides the crews and 166 marines, tljere were 757 comdcts
— d6d men and 192 women. Stores and provisions for tAvo
years were taken, besides agricultural implements and tools,
with all the necessaries for the foundation of a permanent set-
tlement. Captain Philip, the appointed govel^or, took com-
mand of the squadron, and sailed first to the Cape of Good
Hope, then belonging to the Dutch, where live stock and
seeds were procured. At Rio Janeiro more stores were taken
in, and the expedition steered direct for the new land. Con-
tinuing their course, they reached Australia after a voyage of
eight months and one week. Botany Bay appeared to pro-
mise little ; water seemed scarce, and an aspect of aridity on
the surrounding land decided them to go elsewhere in search
of a place of rest. The fleet, therefore, weighed anchor ;
and, as they left the bay, two French ships, under La

AUSTRALIA, OR NKW HOLLAND. 03

Perouse, entered it. That adventurous discoverer stayed two
months in this haven, and then set sail for the Pacific, disap-
pearing forever from the sight of civilized man.

Drawing near an opening in the cliffs, a few miles further
north, the go^rnor went to examine it in person. The
natives collected on the rocks, shouting to the strangers to
go away ; but they persevered. Captain Cook had reported
the existence in this neighborhood of a creek, where boats
could be sheltered. A sailor, named Jackson, however,
declared that a great haven lay within the mighty rocks
that frowned above them ; and entering between these, the
explorers were dehghted to find a harbor of many miles in
extent. A fine anchoring-ground was at once chosen, and
the name of the sailor bestowed on the harbor.

The spot chosen for debarkation was near a stream of
fresh water, over-shadowed by trees. Every man literally
stepped from the .boats into a forest. They detached them-
selves into parties, and the primeval silence of the shore
was immediately broken by sounds which have never since
died away. Some shouldered the axe and commenced clear-
ing ground for the difierent encampments ; some pitched the
tents ; some brought from the ships the necessary stores,
and others examined the capabilities of the neighboring soil.
Every one wandered freely over the country, and wholesale
disposals were made of land which, fifty years later, was
worth more than a thousand ^guineas an acre.

The people were then collected together, and the governor's
commission was read, with letters patent for establishing
courts of justice. The ground was gradually cleared, a
rude farm was prepared to receive the live stock, and gardens
were laid out for the planting of seeds and roots. Thus was
planted the colony of New South Wales.

100 AUSTRALIA AND NEW HOLLAND.

CHAPTER IX. ♦

AUSTRALIA OR NE^y HOLLAND.

The colony of New South Wales is exceeding precocious,
approaching fast to commercial and political greatness. It
promises fair to occupy a commanding position with respect to
the quarter of the globe in which it is situated. There is very
little doubt that when sufficiently powerful, the colonists will
shake off the yoke of the mother country, and erect themselves
into a separate sovereignty, such a spirit being abundantly
evident, even at present. They have not as yet the strength
necessary for an undertaking of so great a magnitude ; but
none of the inclination is wanting, particularly since the home
government has threatened to subject them to what they con-
sider unjust taxation. Already the storm-cloud has began to
show itself above the horizon, and we will venture to predict,
the time is not far distant when it will overspread the heavens,
and shower upon them all the horrors of family strife. A
population composed, as this chiefly is, of the most turbulent
and refractory, and of the self-exiled, who have been driven
from their native land by misery and persecution, are not
likely to remain long in patient subjection to a country which
has been the source of their former misfortunes and disgraces,
and with the recollections of which so much is mingled to
awaken the bad feelings of the heart. They are constantly
looking forward for the severance of the tie which binds their
new home to the parent land. The vicious, because such

AUSTRALIA OR NEW HOLLAND. 101

characters hate and fear the power that has chastised them ;
and the unfortunate, because they anticipate from a longer
connection a recurrence of their past adversity by an introduc-
tion of the same causes which had led to them in a country
where the unassisted poor man, if he would not die of starva-
tion, must plunge himself in crime. They know well that
when the majority is nearly on a footing with regard to wealth,
chances are great, that each will secure to himself a compe-
tency. In a community so circumstanced, the struggle is not
with the overwhelming advantages of the rich, but with more
surmountable obstacles. The road to affluence is denied to
none, and success is dependent on a man's own exertions.
He will soonest reach the goal who is most industrious and
enterprising.

The town of Sydney* is in the most flourishing condition,
trade is extending and becoming more and more profitable,
and emigration flowing into the colony with an enlarging cur-
rent, and composed of individuals of that most useful class to
a 3'oung colony — artizans, agriculturists, and such like.

The principal article of export is wool. Wheat ranks next
in importance ; but the crops are uncertain, owing to the long
and severe droughts to which the country is liable some years.
These, by the way, are most serious evils to the country, and
one of the greatest checks to its advancement, and, unfor-
tunately, irrigation cannot be resorted to as a substitute in
consequence of the scarcity of fresh-water streams. The dry
periods are sometimes so constant and protracted that every-

* Sydney is the capital of New South Wales, and contains about 25,000 inhabi-
tants. The streets are well laid out, and are rapidly filling up with good houses
constructed of brick. In the eastern part of the town is a large square, upon which
are situated the Catholic Cathedral, the Ch-irch of St. James', and the offices of the
Colonial Government; on the western qua "ter are extensive public grounds, and
many hy.ndsome buildings.

102 AUSTRALIA OR NEW HOLLAND.

thing becomes parched; all nature withers under their fiery
influence ; vegetables, plants, herbs, are destroyed, and the
fields literally take fire. The ground becomes intensely
heated, and the fine dust is whirled into the air in such vast
clouds that the wayfarer is threatened with the same fate
that sometimes befalls the unlucky traveler in the deserts of
Africa. These are times which distress not only the grain-
merchant, but the market generally. Agriculture becomes
almost neglected, flocks and herds sufier for the want of sus-
tenance, and are no longer driven, and inland traveling is
rendered difficult ; hence the supply of wool, provisions, and
indeed of every marketable commodity, is most sadly di-
minished.

In the course of time, when the wool-trade ceases to be as
attractive as now, no longer holding out such allurements to
the seekers after wealth, many articles will enter into exporta-
tion which are as yet but little attended to by agriculturists and
manufacturers. Wine will probably be one of the number,
the soil and climate being admirably adapted to the cultivation
of the grape, of which a great abundance is annually raised.

With respect to mineral resources, this country is not with-
out them. Lead and iron have been found in considerable
quantities. Coal is plentiful, and used most extensively, as
well for comfort in cold weather as for manufacturing and
other purposes. It is inflammable, but emits an exceedingly
disagreeable smell, and before the appearance of flame throws
out an immense deal of smoke. As the country becomes
explored other minerals* will be discovered, which may be
expected to form materials for future prosperity.

» I see by the last accounts from Sydney that both copper and gold have been
discovered, and the former is said to be of a very superior quality. At Mount
Alexander a piece of gold was found, weighing 58 oz. 18 dwts

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 103

At present but little is known of the internal parts of the
island of New Holland. Exploration has been carried but to
a small extent, owing principally to the difficulties attendant
upon traveling. Water and food cannot always be procured,
and the natives are hostile. The trifling knowledge that has
been obtained of this region, shows it to be one of the most
peculiar in the world — distinct from others, not only in its
general character, but many individual features, producing
trees, plants, &c., and several kinds of animated creatures
which are totally unlike those found elsewhere ; for instance,
we have cherries growing with their stones outside ; trees
which shed their bark instead of their leaves ; black swans,
white eagles, quadrupeds with birds' bills, and crabs of an
ultra-marine color.*

The human occupantsf of the land even are not without

their singularities. There is, perhaps, no race of people

*.0f the 70,000 or 80,000 species of plants described by botanists, 5,710 are already-
known to exist in Australia ; of these only 270 are common to it and to other countries,
while 5,440 are altogether peculiar to its extrordinary soil. Thus, this island contri-
butes to botany nearly a twelfth of the plants known ; but they are generally of a very
low order. Ferns, nettles, flowers, and grasses, having the form, bulk and habits of
trees, are abundant. No dense woods have been found, and the groves, from a pecu-
liar arrangement of their foliage, present a strange appearance, many of the trees
having their leaves hanging with the edge downwards. Flowering plants of exces-
sive beauty are found ; and the lily, tulip and honeysuckle grow to the size of a
large standard tree. In the interior immense numbers of prickly plants cover the
ground, binding down the 'loose soil, and preventing the drift which distiuguishes the
deserts of Arabia and Africa from the Australian wastes. The zoology of this region
also presents extraordinary features. The number of known species of mamalia is
about one thousand ; fifty-eight are found in Australia, of which forty-six ^re pecu-
liar to it, leaving twelve only which it contains in common v.'ith other regions.
Even of these, five are whales and four seals ; another is the strong-winged bat of
Madagascar ; another, like the jerboa of America ; and the last, the dog— the animal
found always where man exists, and rarely, if ever, where he does not. Kangaroos,
however, are almost the only important animal. In the birds and reptiles similar
peculiarities exist.

t The people who inhabit this extraordinary region belong to the Ethiopic, which is
the lowest family of the human race. Many writers with great ingenuity have

104 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND.

known to whom they can be compared ; all would suffer by
the comparison. A resemblance may be traced between them
and certain tribes of negroes in Africa ; the complexion is the
same — if anything, blacker — the shape of the head and some
of the features similar, but the countenance far more hideous ;
in fact, imagination cannot conceive the extent of their
ugliness. Perfectly satanic in appearance, one fancies him-
self in the midst of a horde of sooty imps just escaped from
the dominions of his cloven-footed majesty. They are gene-
rally tall and shapeless, with exceedingly slender limbs that
have scarce even the ordinary enlargements occasioned by the
muscles. Their manner of living, habits and customs, are
those of a people plunged in the lowest depths of barbarism,
and showing but a slight superiority over the beasts of the
field. They do not settle in communities for mutual pro-
tection and benefit, but roam at large over the country, sup-
porting themselves as they best can upon what chance throws
in their way — sometimes upon fruits and berries, and even
roots, and sometimes upon snakes and whatever animals they
succeed in ensnaring. They do not even build huts, but

attempted to trace the original colonization of Australia to a horde of Malays passing
over in canoes from the Indian Archipelago, across Torres's Straits to the unknown
southern land. The color of the skin, however, the formation of the skull and the
limbs, with the genius, the habits, and the general character of the Australians
identify them with the negro race of New Gninea. The weapons they employ are
similar, and their progress in the industrial i..rts, as well as tlieir mental qualities
and condition of existence, being infinitely lower than those of the Malay, and
closely similar to those of the Papuan, destroy the theory of their Malan origin.
Traditions they have few, and those but faint and incoherent. It is probable,
however, that the wild savages of the Indian Archipelago, driven from their original
homes by the superior civilization of the Malays, put to sea in rude canoes, and
reaching the mysterious southern land, debarked, and gradually peopled the wil-
derness. They left their own rich islands to the conquering Malays, deserting a
contested heritage for one where security and peace made up for the loss of a soil
spontaneously productive. That infusion of other blood has taken place is probable,
but not to such an extent as to have influenced the character of the population.

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 105

shelter tliemselves from the inclemencies of the weather under
decayed trees. In truth, they are a strange race ; and the
greatest wonder is that there should be so great a dissimilarity
between them and the natives of the surrounding islands —
not only are they altogether unlike in personal appearance,
but in every other respect. Most of the other islanders
have light brown complexions, strait hair, and are handsome
and active — live together in villages, under the government of
something like bands, and in the internal arrangement of
their huts, manner of living, &c., exhibit quite a correct idea
of domestic comfort ; but these, on the contrary, lead a life
literally that of wild animals.

Both sexes have the disgusting practice of rubbing fish oil
into their skins; but they are compelled to do this as a
protection against mosquitoes, which are very large and bite
with much severity. Some of them have been seen with the
entrails of fish frying in the burning sun upon their heads
until the oil ran down over their foreheads. On particular
occasions they besmear themselves with red and white clay,
using the former when preparing to fight — the latter, when
going to have their dances. The women are subjected to mu-
tilation of the two first joints of the little finger of the left hand.
This operation is performed when they are very young, and
is done, it is said, under the idea that these joints of the little
finger are in the way when they wind their fishing lines over
the hand. While fishing the women sing. Those who occupy
the sea-coast live chiefly on fish, which they roast, for they are
ignorant of the efiect of fire upon water. A story is told of
a shipwrecked sailor, who obtained among them the reputation
of a sorcerer, by boiling a potfull of water.

The men do not confine themselves to one wife, but live
with two or three ; though it has been observed that the first

lOG AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND.

•wife claims a superiority of attachment, and an exclusive
right to the conjugal embraces, while the second, or the one
last chosen, was compelled to be the drudge and slave of
both.

Between the ages of ten and twelve, both males and females
undergo the operation which they call Inao?ioojig, viz., that of
having the nose perforated to receive a reed or bone, which by
them is considered a great ornament. It is a common prac-
tice, also, to gash their bodies and to knock out one or two of
their front teeth. An English trader once made a large profit
by selling in London a quantity of these teeth for the use of
the dentists.

Their habits are unsociable ; they talk very little even
among themselves, and never permit any one to joke or laugh
with them. Nor is their character more alluring in other
respects ; to lie, cheat, and steal are practices almost univer-
sal, and owners of sheep, and isolated settlers often suffer from
their depredations. This is not because they do not know any
better, for their ideas of property are very distinct, and they
never steal from one another. They are proud and insolent,
and nothing will induce them to acknowledge any human
being as their superior, or to show any marks of respect.
They address the settlers without the Mr. prefixed to their
names ; and on entering a room, they never salute or remain
standing, but immediately seat themselves. Jealousy is a
prominent feature in the character of the men. The husband
who suspects another of seducing his wife, either kills one or
both. The affair is taken up by the tribe, if the party belongs
to another, and the manner in which it is settled is as fol-
lows : — the guilty person is furnished with a shield,* and the

* The native name for this shield is Nicklemara. It is made of the bark of the
gum-tree, and has an oval

AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND. 107

whole tribe which he has insulted, cast their spears at him—
the first throw being made by the member most injured.

Their mode of making w^ar is peculiar. The aggrieved
tribe assemble and consult relative to the course to be pur-
sued. This having been decided on, a messenger is dispatched
to announce their intention to commence hostilities to the
opposite party, and fix upon a day for the combat. The
latter immediately proceed to make all the necessary prepara-
tions for the approaching contest ; and on the day assigned,
both parties take the field, accompanied by the women. The
first onset is made by the oldest woman abusing and taunting
the opposite side. Then a warrior or two advance, and com-
mence throwing spears at each other. This exchange of
missiles continues sometimes for a whole day, and generally
ends without any fatal consequences, for the warriors are
picked men, and are celebrated for their skill in avoiding mis-
siles with their shields. When a warrior of either party is
killed, the fight ceases, explanations are made, and the parties
meet amicably to bury the dead ; after which they all join in
the performance of a dance called Corrohory.

They make use of two weapons which we have not seen
elsewhere — the Dundernel and the Boomereng. The former
has a flat curved handle, about two feet in length, and in
its general appearance resembles a hatchet. It is thrown
from the hand before coming to close quarters. The Boome-
reng is a flat stick, three feet long and two inches wide,
crooked in- the centre, forming an angle of fifty degrees. It
is an implement used both for war and in the chase, and can
be thrown by the natives with great precision.

As might be expected, a people so ignorant as the Austra-
lians, must also be very superstitious. When the wind groans
over the hills, they imagine it to be the voice of an evil spirit,

108 AUSTRALIA, OR NEW HOLLAND.

and build fires about their habitations to drive the evil one
away. A grave placed before the door of a house is a safe-
guard against thieves. When beneath a rock they will not
whistle, because they say this will cause the rock to fall upon
them; of thunder and hghtning, they are likewise much
afraid, and beheve that by chanting certain words and breath-
ing hard they can dispel it.

Of their opinions with respect to a future state we had very
defective information. They spoke of some jolace which they
believed to be the abode of the dead, but we could not learn
that they had any idea of rewards and punishments. Their
ideas of a deity are distinct — they believe in a being who is
all powerful, who created themselves and their country, and
delights in giving them all the good things of this world which
they enjoy.

There are other English settlements in New Holland be-
sides that of New South Wales, but as our ships did not visit
them, I am unable to give any detailed description of them.

AlllARCTIC CRUISE. 109

CHAPTER X.

" Uptorn, reluctant, from its oozy cave,
The ponderous anchor rises o'er the "wave."

ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

December 26tli. At an early hour this morning the
squadron sailed from Sydney, on an exploring cruise in the
Antarctic Ocean.

We have not visited a place since "we left the United States
■with which Tve have been so \Yell pleased, as the capital of
New South Wales. We received the most marked attention
while on shore, and had daily invitations from the inhabitants
to partake of their hospitahties. His Excellency the Gover-
nor sought an early opportunity to invite Captain Wilkes and
a number of the other officers, to come and spend several days
with him at his residence in Paramatta. The officers of the
50th Regiment gave us a splendid dinner, and the Australian
Club another. In short, everything was done, both by the
authorities and citizens, to render our visit a pleasant one.

December 2Tth and 28th. During these two days nothing
of much interest occurred. In the afternoon of the 27th we
saw several albatrosses, and during the night the sea appeared
uncommonly phosphorescent. Our observations place us in
latitude 36° 48' 00" south, and 151° 00' 00" east. The wind
is from the eastward, and the weather is pleasant.

December 29th. The mechanics have been engaged this
day in securing the ship from the cold, boisterous weather

110 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

which we may very soon expect to encounter. The hatches
have had casings built around them, furnished with doors, the
seams of the ports are caulked and covered with tarred can-
vas and sheet-lead, and a stove has been put up on the gun-
deck, which is to answer the double purpose of warming the
ship and drying the wet clothing. The temperature of the
ship is, I understand, to be regulated by a thermometer, and
is never to be higher than 50°, in order that the crew may be
compelled to take exercise, which is very necessary in cold
latitudes. The weather continues pleasant, and the nights are
beautifully clear and starlight. We are now in latitude
38° 35' 00" south, and longitude 150° 55' 00" east.

January 2d. There has been a great change in the ap-
pearance and feeling of the weather within the last twenty-four
hours. The horizon looks threatening, and it is cold enough
to make one feel the want of an overcoat. Owing to the heavy
mist which prevailed during the night, we lost sight of the
schooner " Flying Fish," and we have spent a large portion
of this day in looking for her, but without success. This has
compelled us to steer for Macquarie Island, the first ap-
pointed place for the squadron to meet in the event Qf a sepa-
ration.

January 3d. The fog continues very thick, and we have
reason to believe that we have separated from the " Peacock,"
as we have not seen her since this morning. Two guns were
fired about noon, in hopes that she might hear us. According
to oui' observations, we are in latitude of 49° 25' 00" south,
and 159° 18' 00" east. The weather grows cold, and the
wind blows fresh from the northward and eastward.

January 4th and 5th. During these two days we have had
much rain, accompanied with thunder and lightning. A vast
number of Port Egmont hens, petrils, and albatrosses, and one

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. Ill

or two seals have been seen. The fog has prevented our ob-
taining any astronomical observations for ascertaining our
position. The wind is still blowing fresh from the northeast.

January 7th. We have been trying all this day to reach
Macquarie Island, supposed to be about thirty miles to wind-
ward of us. But the wind, weather and current being against
us, we have been obliged tc give it up, and are now steering
for Emerald Island, our second rendezvous. During the
greater part of the forenoon the mist was so dense that we
were unable to see the '^ Porpoise," although she was not
more than six hundred yards from us. The temperature now
is below 40^^. Our observations make the latitude to be
54° 11' 38" south, and longitude 160° 58' 00" east. Since
sunset the wind has moderated, and the sky a,ppears much
more promising than it has done for some days past.

January 9th. This morning we passed the locality given
on the chart to Emerald Island, but saw nothing of it. We
therefore concluded that the chart is incorrect. A great
number of gray petrils have been seen, and we have also
passed several patches of kelp. The barometer stands at
30.00 inches, but the thermometer has fallen to 32°, and the
atmosphere is very raw.

January 10th. We encountered to-day, for the first time,
several icebergs and some drift-ice ; the former were several
miles in circumference, but there was nothing very striking in
their shape. The sea beat against their sides, and produced
a noise similar to that made by breakers. A dense fog has
succeeded to the clear weather we had yesterday. Our lati-
tude is 61° 07' 00" south, longitude 162° 32' 00" east.

January 11th. There has been a great number of ice-
bergs in sight this day. We estimate several to be five miles
long and three hundred feet in height. They all had flat

112 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

tops, -^'ith sides full of cavities, caused by the waves dashing
against them.

About 9 P. M., Tve passed to the eastward of a point of
field-ice,* which proved to be the edge of a " barrier;" stood
in to the southward until 10.35 P. M., when we found our-
selves completely embayed, having solid ice as far as could be
seen from the mast-heads, except to the northward. We are
now " hove-to" to wait for daylight. The barometer con-
tinues to stand at 30.00 inches, though the wind has hauled
around to the westward, and the temperature is two degrees
colder than yesterday. According to our observations the lati-
tude is 64° 10' 00" south, and longitude 164° 31' 00" east.

January 13th. At early dawn we made sail, and com-
menced to work along the " barrier" to the westward. About
9 P. M., it being very foggy, we lost sight of the " Porpoise,"
and have not seen her since. The temperature is now 30°,
and our decks and rigging are covered with ice. A great
number of icebergs have been seen, and owing to the thickness
of the weather, we came very near running into several. The
latitude by "dead reckoning" at meridian was 64° 08' 00"
south, longitude 165° 21' 00" east.

January 14th. The weather continues thick and disagree-
able, but the wind has shifted to the northward and westward.
About noon the fog lifted for a short time, and we counted
sixty icebergs in sight. They excited much curiosity, as they
presented a magnificent spectacle. Every fantastic form and
variety of tint was there. Masses, assuming the shape of a
Gothic church, with arched windows and doors, and all the
rich draperv of that style, composed, apparently, of crystal,
showing all the shades of opal, or of emerald green ; pillars
and inverted cones, pyramids and mounds of every shape,

* A piece of ice so large that its extent cannot be seen.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 113

valleys and lakes, domes supported by round transparent
columns of cerulian hue, and cities and palaces as white as the
purest alabaster. The liveliest imagination could not paint
to itself a scene more rich and grand, and we stood gazing
at it witii astonishment and admiration until it was again
enveloped in the fog.

January 16th. Towards noon the wind shifted to the
northward, and at 8 P. M., to the southward and eastward,
when it also became very light. Weather, during the first
part, tliiick ; during the latter part, mild and pleasant. In the
afternoon sounded with 250 fathoms line — no bottom. Tem-
perature at that depth 31°, the same as at the surface. Dur-
ing the day passed through great quantities of drift ice ; saw
several whales, a seal, and a great number of snow-birds.
Latitude at noon 6Q° 00' 02" south, longitude 156° 02' 00"
east.

January ITth. Commenced with light airs from the south-
ward, and thick weather. Lay-to from 1 to 3.30 A. M., when
it cleared off. At 4 P. M. the wind shifted again to the west-
ward. At 6.15 P. M. we descried two sail — one to wind-
ward and the other to leeward — proved to be the " Peacock"
and " Porpoise ;" passed several icebergs of a pinnacle-shape.
We have now reached the latitude of 66° 26 00" south, and
our nights are only four hours long. The weather has be-
come more mild since the fog has disappeared, and being
able to see our way among the ice-islands, we are making a
fine progress.

January 19th. Yesterday nothing worthy of notice tran-
spired. This morning we found ourselves in a large bay ; the
" Peacock" was in sight, and appeared to be standing to the
westward. The water has a green appearance, but we have
not been able to obtain bottom- It is believed by many of us

lU ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

that we are in the vicinity of land ; saw, in the course of the
afternoon, several whales, and a flock of petrels of a species
different from any heretofore observed by us. For the past
three hours appearances have been visible both to the south-
east and southwest which very much resemble mountains.*

January 20th. Last night we witnessed a magnificent
Aurora Australis. It rose in the south — a sort of semi-arch
of light — and then across the heavens in almost every direc-
tion, darted columns of a luminous character. The light was
so bright that we could see to read the finest print -^th ease.
In half an hour it had all disappeared. The weather is still
mild. Saw several sperm-whales, and a flock of ice-pigeons,
of which we were fortunate enough to obtain specimens.

January 22d. At 3 P. M. the wind came out from the
southward. Towards noon we stood along a line of icebergs,
the surface of which was of a yellowish color. We also re-
marked about the same time, that the water had become very
much discolored. A flock of ducks were also seen. Latitude
in at noon QQ° 12' 26" south, longitude 149° 44' 00" east.
Temperature of air 25°, water 31°. After sunset the wind
shifted again to the southward and westward.

January 23d. The weather continues mild and pleasant.
At 12.30 P. M. tacked ship to the southward and eastward to
clear the "barrier" of ice, which bore east-by-south. At
2 P. M. a large, deep bay showed itself to the southward,
which we entered, and soon after observed appearances of
land, both to the eastward and westward. By midnight we
again reached the " barrier," and therefore were compelled to
stand back. Numerous birds were seen about the ship.

♦ The same appearances were observed by the " Peacock " and the " Porpoise," and
Ji is now fully established that they were high land, and formed a part of the Au-
tarctic continent discovered by the Expedition.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 115

January 25th. To-day the crew has been employed in
filling up the tanks with ice, obtained from an iceberg which
was towed alongside. Those who have used the water pro-
cured by this method, represent it as being of an excellent
quality. Each piece was allowed to remain on deck some
time for the salt water to drain ofi. In the afternoon we
landed on the solid ice, and took some magnetic observations.
We are once more steering to the southward. Latitude in at
noon 6t° 04' 37" south, longitude 147° 42' 00" east. Tem-
perature of air 26°, water 29°.

January 28th. During these twenty-four hours we fell in
with the ''Porpoise," and communicated ^with her. We
found both officers and crew well and in good spirits. We
received from her some specimens — among others the skins of
two sea-elephants. The wind is now blowing fresh from the
southward and eastward, and the weather has again become
very thick. The cold is intense, and coffee has been served to
the crew at the commencement of each watch, which is found
very warming and refreshing.

January 29th. The weather continues unfavorable. At
9.45 A. M., the fog lifted, and we again discovered high land
a-head. We steered for it by the most open route, but after
a run of about forty miles, we were obliged to retrace our
course. We found ourselves beset by ice-islands and iloe-
ice,* while at times the fog was so dense that the largest objects
could not be seen through it. At 10 P. M., the wind blew very
fresh, and we had many narrow escapes. We passed so near
several of the bergs, that we could distinctly hear the waves
dashing against their sides. Latitude in by " dead reckoning "
Q5° 28' 00" south ; longitude 140° 45' 00" east. Tempera-
ture of air 28°. We are now hove-to, it being too dark to run.

* A piece of ice of considerable size, but the t stent of which can be distinguished.

IIG ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

January 30th. Early this morning we discovered more
land to the southward and westward. It was several thou-
sand feet high, and extended to the east and west as far as
the eye could reach. We steered for it under all sail, intend-
ing, if possible, to effect a landing upon some part of its coast ;
but by 8 o'clock we reached the icy barrier, and thus were
the third time compelled to turn back. How very provoking !
We found our latitude to be, when nearest to the barrier,
6Q° 38' 00" south ; longitude 140° 00' 00" east. Depth of
water was twenty-five fathoms — the color, a yellowish cast, or
dirty green. Two ledges, composed of volcanic rock, were
distinctly seen ; we also observed some columns bearing south,
which had the appearance of volcanic smoke. To the west-
ward of our position were numerous icebergs, which appeared
to be aground. In the course of the afternoon, the wind,
which in the morning had been moderate, freshened to a gale ;
and, by 6 o'clock, we called all hands, and reduced sail to a
close-reefed main-topsail and fore-storm staysail. The cold
is very severe, and a number of the " look outs " have been
badly frozen.

January 31st. There is no improvement in the weather.

February 1st. Last night the gale abated, and we are now
favored with mild, pleasant weather. How grateful this feels
after the stormy scenes we have passed through within the
last forty-eight hours ! Our sick-list the last week has been
very large. The fleet-surgeon attributes it to the chmate, and
has recommended to Captain Wilkes to return north.* Many
of the men are affected with boils, which renders them almost
useless. Rheumatic affections are also exceedingly prevalent.

February 3d. On this day we experienced another severe
storm.

* This recommendation was not listened to.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 11/

During the 4th5 Stli, and Gth, the weather continued unfa-
vorable.

On the 7th, we had clear weather and made very good pro-
gress. The Antarctic Continent was several times in sight in
the course of the day, and a point of it, situated in latitude
65° 48' 00" south, and longitude 131° 40' 00" east, was
named Cape Carr, after the first-lieutenant of this ship.
The health of the crew is improving.

February 11th. We had moderate breezes from the south-
ward and westward, accompanied with snow at intervals.
Great numbers of penguins and petrels seen about the ship ;
also a flock of birds, about the size of a gray plover, having
black heads and bills, a white ring round the neck, and a
small white spot on the tail — the rest of the body of a pale ash
color ; their flight and whistle were also similar to the plover.
The continent was in sight to the westward, and the sea quite
smooth and studded with icebergs of every variety of shape.
During the night we hove-to, it being very dark.

February 12th. At 8 A. M., we made sail. At 1 P. M.,
observed a range of mountains covered with snow, for which
we steered until we came to the barrier of ice. From 2 to
4.30 P. M., we " lay-to," in hopes of discovering an opening
by which we could get near the land ; but none appeared. As
usual, the barrier was formed of solid ice, and its line was
nearly straight. Our latitude was 64° 56' 00" south ; longi-
tude 112° IT' 00" east. At 4.45 sounded with 150 fathoms
line — thermometer attached — temperature at that depth 29°,
at the surface 30°. The color of the water was dirty green.
Current there was none. At sunset land was still in sight,
bearing from southwest-by-south to west half-north.

February 14th. The weather continues pleasant. At
daylight worked up for the clearest passage, and stood in for

118 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

the continent among large brash-ice,* until 11.30 A. M.,
when the masses of ice became so thick as to render all fur-
ther approach impossible. We were compelled to put the
helm up and wear ship, picking our way out through passages
not more than thirty feet in width. We saw distinctly from
sixty to seventy miles of coast, and a mountain in the interior,
which we estimated to be 2,500 feet in height. At 1 P. M.,
we effected a landing on an iceberg, and found imbedded in it
sand, gravel, and rocks. These last were several feet in cir-
cumference, and composed of basalt and red sandstone.
Many of the smaller stones were brought on board, and they
very soon disappeared, for every one was anxious to possess
themselves of a piece of the new continent. There is no
doubt in my mind, but that this mass of ice had once been a
part of the icy barrier, and that the surface now exposed to
view had rested on the bottom of the sea. Many species of
zoophytes were seen about the berg. At 5 P. M., the boat
returned, leaving on the ice a flag flying, with a bottle con-
taining orders for the " Peacock " and " Porpoise," which
vessels we have not seen for the past three weeks. When the
boat was secured, we again filled away, and stood to the west-
ward. We have now reached the longitude of 105° 30' 00'
east. Temperature of air 26°, water 30°.

February 15th. This morning the wind hauled to the
southward and westward, and ever since the weather has been
cloudy and snowy. All the ice seen to-day has been dis-
colored, more or less, by what appeared to be mud and gravel.
Numerous whales, seals and penguins have been about the
ship.

January 17th. Last night another display of the Aurora

* Ice in a broke i state, and in such small pieces that the ship can easily force
through.

ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 119

Australis was observed to the northward and westward. It
reached to the zenith, the light shooting across the heavens in
columns 40° or 50° broad, of a light-yellow color, slighirly
tinged with red, and moving very rapidly from east towards
west. So brilliant and remarkable was the phenomenon, that
almost every person in the ship came on deck to witness it.
The star Canopus was in the zenith at the time, and its
brightness appeared much diminished.

At 2 P. M. we landed on an iceberg, upon which were
found more stones. Upon it were also found a va&t number
of penguins, and several were captured and their skins pre-
served for the government. They made a stout resistance,
biting and striking those who seized them with their powerful
flippers. One of them was a king penguin, and he could only
be taken by knocking him down with a boat-hook. His height
was 22 inches, and the circumference of the body 45 inches.
He was a showy-looking bird, his head being adorned with
bright yellow feathers, resembling a graceful plume. We also
saw in the afternoon a sea-elephant, and we tried our best to
kill him, by firing into him no less than sixteen musket balls,
but he seemed not to mind them, and finally disappeared.
Appearances of land have also been seen this day. The
health of the crew continues to improve.

February 20th. We have now light breezes from the west-
ward. At 3.30 A. M. made the barrier a-head, and on the
weather-bow kept off and set all sail. At 4 one hundred
icebergs were counted in sight from aloft. At 6 made the
barrier again, bearing soutbwest-by-west ; shortened sail, and
hauled on a wind. At 11.30 lowered a boat to try the cur-
rent, but found none; at the same time sounded with 850
fathoms line— no bottom ; temperature at that depth 35°, at
the surface 31°. Our longitude at noon was 101° 46' 00''

120 ANTARCTIC CRUISE.

east, latitude 62° 08' 05" south. The sea is quite smooth,
and the surface is covered with shrimps.

February 21st. This morning Captain Wilkes announced
to the officers and crew his intention to bear-up and return .
north. The intelligence was received with much rejoicing,
for we all felt worn out with fatigue and exposure. He also
called aft all hands, and thanked them for the assistance they
afforded him, and in addition he promised the sailors that he
would use his utmost exertions to obtain extra pay for them.

On the 11th of March, at 1.30 P. M., we again dropped
our anchor at Fort Macquarie, Sydney. Here we found the
"Peacock." She arrived a few days before, and was now
undergoing repairs, having sustained heavy damages during
her late cruise by coming in contact with large masses of ice.
We also heard here of the arrival at Hobart Town, Van
Dieman's Land, of the French Expedition,* commanded by
Admiral D'Urville.

We remained at Sydney until the 19th of March. We
then took our departure for New Zealand, where we arrived
after a pleasant passage of eleven days. The '' Peacock " re-
ceived orders to follow as soon as her repairs were completed.

' In 1837 the French Government sent out an Expedition under Rear-Admiral D'Ur-
ville, an eminent explorer, who had already made three voyages round the world.
Two corvettes, the "Astrolabe" and "Zelee," sailed from Toulon, and by the end
of the year had followed Waddell's track in the Antarctic Seas until they were
stopped by the ice between the 63d and 64th parallels. On three occasions an entrance
was forced into it, but they were driven back each time, and forced to return.
After a protracted cruise in Polynesia and the Indian Archipelago, D"Urville resolved
to make another attempt to get to the south, and touched at Hobart Town in a dis-
tressed condition, having lost three officers and thirteen men by dysentery. He sailed
January 1st, 1840, his special aim being to approach or reach the magnetic or ter-
restial pole. On the 21st he was surrounded by numerous ice-islands, and saw a
lolty line of coast covered with enow, stretching from southwest to northwest, ap-
parently without limit. With some difficulty a landing was eflected, and not being
aware of our discovery two days before, possession was taken in the name of France,
and the land was called La Terra Adelie, after the wife of the discoverer.

NEW ZEALAND. 121

CHAPTER XI.

NEW ZEALAND

On the morning of the 30th of March, having made New
Zeaflancl, we tacked ship and by 10.30 V. M., " came to " in
the Bay of Islands in five fathoms water. Both the " Por-
poise " and the " Flying Fish " were found at anchor here.
The former reported that, after parting from us, she coasted
along the solid barrier of ice several hundred miles, seeking in
vain for an opening by which to approach the land beyond the
barrier; that she passed many icebergs in which were im-
bedded gravel and boulders ; also, that she fell in with the
French exploring squadron, and attempted to speak with the
admiral's ship ("Astrolabe"), but when they had almost
reached her, she tacked ship and stood away — thereby declin-
ing any communication.

The " Flying Fish " experienced very severe weather, by
which her safety was much endangered, but she did not dis-
cover any land. The Bay of Islands is very capacious, and
affords excellent anchorage to vessels of all classes. It is
studded with many islands, and hence the name. These
islands are of a very irregular figure, and destitute of vegeta-
tion. The bay has been surveyed several times by the French,
and we believe very thoroughly. It is ten miles from head to

* The two islands that go by the name of New Zealand are situated between the
latitude 34* 2-i' 00" and 47° 25' 00' south, and between the longitude 166" 00' 00" and
180° 00' 00" east.

122 fJEW ZEALAJ^D.

head. The shores are divided into steep cliffs and heads,
with intermediate beaches. Its anchorages are numerous, but
those which are now more generally used are the River Rawa
Kawa and the Bay of Kororakia ; they are preferred on
account of the convenience they afford for watering, repairing,
and communicating with the shore.

The adjacent country is hilly, and much more barren than
productive, the soil containing too great a quantity of clay to
be good. The vegetation consists of fern, a few stunted trees
and patches of brush, close- set, and almost impenetrable.
The soil in the interior of the island is richer, and produces
various natural productions,* some of which are extremely
valuable. The flax-plant, which is indigenous, meets the eye
in every direction. It is converted by the natives to a variety
of purposes. It supplies them with excellent materials for
clothing, cordage, and fishing-nets, arid the preparation being
simple, requires very little trouble.

There are many English and some French who have settled
in this part of New Zealand. They are mostly ship-carpen-
ters and farmers. They live in houses built in the European
style, and cultivate corn, potatoes,! onions, &c., &c., for
which they always find a ready market among the shipping.

Pahia, the Episcopal mission estabhshment, is situated on
the west side of the Bay, and commands a beautiful water-
prospect, and is the residence of all those connected with the
mission. About five miles further toward the north is the site
chosen by the British government! for the future City of

* Pines are liere to be met with soaring to a height which leaves no similarity
between them and the tallest that ever grow on the pine-lands of the United States.
Here are also several kinds of trees admirably well adapted for ornamental work.

t The potato was introduced by Captain Cook. It has been cultivated ever ^nce
his visit, and is now very abundant.

t A few weeks previous to our arrival at the Bay of Islands, Capta:c Hobson, of
the Royal Navy, called a meeting of all the principal chiefs, and efe. -cd a treaty

NEW ZEALAND. 123

Victoria. It is not a pleasant location, nor is the anchorage
as good as some others in the bay.

The Aborigines of New Zealand are of good size, well
fornied, and have fine eyes, but their noses are inclined to be
flat, the nostrils large and thin, and their mouths wide. Both
men and women have their faces elaborately tattooed, which
gives them a striking appearance. Their hair is straight,
coarse, and black. The complexion varies from dark olive to
copper-color. Their dress formerly consisted of mats made
of flax and skins, but now they generally wear trows ers and
jackets ; some wear hats, but we saw none who made use of
shoes. The females wear a loose petticoat made of blue na-n-
keen or cahco. They all have their ears bored, and wear ear-
rings made of sharks' teeth, tipped with small bright-colored
feathers. The chiefs and their wives wear round their necks
what is termed "heitiki,"* an ornament which the common
people are not permitted to use, and which is handed down
from father to son. Fish, potatoes and shells constitute the
chief articles of their diet. Meat they seldom or never use,
except on important occasions. Their fishing-tackle does not
differ materially from that which is used by the Tahitians and
Samoa people. When a party has fixed upon a place where they
intend to haul the seine, they taboof it — that is, they prohibit
others from fishing upon the same place. When they take a
greater number of fish than they can consume at once, they

with them, which made a cession of their lands, authority and persons to Queen
Victoria. We were told by the French and American residents that at first a large
number of chiefs were opposed to the treaty, but had been gained over by presents
of powder and rum.

Since the above was writen, the whole island has pi'-ssed into the hands of England,
and Lord Derby's administration conferred upon the colonists a free constitution.

* The Heitiki is made of a stone of a green color found on the borders of a small
lake, called Terrai Pounamu.

t The Taboo laws are strictly observed, even among those who have become Chris-
tians, and are always resorted to, to protect their property.

124 NEW ZEALAND.

dry them on hot stones, by which means they keep a long
time. That they may better protect themselves against their
enemies, they build their villages on the tops of the highest
hills, and surromid them with palisades and trenches. They
are said to have improved in the construction of their houses,
but there is still great room for improvement ; they are yet
small, low, and very filthy. Their furniture consists of a few
mats and baskets, an old sea-chesty and an iron pot or two, in
which they cook their food.

The New Zealanders are industrious, compared with most
of the South Sea Islanders. They cultivate a surplus of
provisions for sale, cut timber, clean flax, raise pigs, poultry,
&c., &c. They also ship as sailors on board of whalers* and
other vessels, which may stand in need of their services.
They are apt in learning the names of the rigging, and are
very active aloft.

In disposition they are zealous, revengeful, and cunning ;
but, on the other hand, they are hospitable and generous to
strangers. Their courage is not to be questioned. Their
wars often last till one or the other of the parties are exter-
minated, and it is said that the horrible custom of feasting on
the flesh of their prisoners is still practised by the tribes who
occupy the interior of the island. These w^ars are oftentimes
occasioned by the bad conduct of single individuals, their
crimes being charged to the whole tribe to which they may be-
long. The tribes who live about the Bay of Islands are well
acquainted with the use af money. They are also w^ll ac-
quainted with fire-arms, and in their conflicts prefer them to
the weapons of their own manufacture, which consist of spears

* Whales are very numerous about New Zealan:., and a great number of vesseh
resort there to engage in the whaling business. Tlr? American vessels <ilone amount
to seventy or eighty a year

NEW ZEALAND. 125

and clubs. Both sexes are addicted to rum-drinking and
tobacco-chewing — bad practices — which, no doubt, they have
acquired from the convicts and other low whites who have
settled among them. Suicide is very common among all the
tribes. A woman who is badly treated by her husband will
immediately go and hang herself. This is also frequently
done at the death of a near relative.

Their laws are simple, clear, and few in number. The
most important ones are those which concern the division of
land. The lower classes are perfectly subordinate to their
superiors, whom they style Etakatika and Epoda. Here is a
mode of government entirely analogous to that which prevails
in the islands of the Indian Seas, where the chief authority is
vested in the Rajah, whose rank resembles that of the Areekee
of New Zealand, and who commands the services of the pan-
geran or heads of the dusums, or villages. These latter cor-
respond exactly with the subordinate chiefs above mentioned,
and like them they acknowledge a superior, though, with re-
spect to their possessions, they are independent of his control.

The religious belief of those who have not embraced Chris-
tianity is as follows : — That they are surrounded by invisible
spirits, who must be conciliated by prayers and ceremonies,
as they have power over the elements, and can at any time
raise the wind and waves against them. They also believe
their priests to be prophets, who can foretell future events,
which they (the priests themselves) pretend have been com-
municated to them directly from some genii, or spirits, which
supposed to have taken them under their especial care.

A few days after our arrival, Pomare, the chief of the
town of Para, paid us a visit. He came off in a war-canoe,
and was attended by forty of his people, men and women.
He was a tall, well-formed man, and I should judge about

126 NEW ZEALAND.

85 years of age. His dress consisted of a blue naval cap,
with a gold-lace band, a blanket tied around his neck,
leaving his right arm free, a shirt, and a pair of trowsers ; his
feet were bare. In his hand he carried a short cloak, made
of dog-skins, dressed with the hair on — it is his state-dress.
His face is handsomely tattooed, though its expression is not
a pleasing one. He is a great beggar, and as great a drunkard,
and is said to openly carry on the infamous traffic in women.
The females who accompanied him to the ship were, I was
informed, his wives, and one or two of them were quite good-
looking. When about to leave the ship. Captain Wilkes
made him a present of a cutlass, with which he appeared
much pleased, and which he handed over to his favorite wife
for safe keeping.

During our stay at the Bay of Islands, the mean tempera-
ture was 60°. The prevailing winds were from the southeast
and west. From what I could learn by conversing with the
foreign residents, the climate of New Zealand is best suited
to a European constitution of any in the south seas. The
aboriginal inhabitants are liable to rheumatism and consump-
tion. The venereal disease is also very common among them,
and from want of proper medical treatment, it but too fre-
quently proves ■P«'tf»l.

TONGA ISLAND. 127

CHAPTER XIL

ISLAND OF TONGA.

On the 6th of April, at 10 A. M., the squadron sailed
from New Zealand for the Friendly Islands.* It was a de-
lightful day, and every one appeared in fine spirits. At 2.30
we discharged the pilot, and by sunset land was out of sight.

On the 13th the wind shifted to the southward and west-
ward, and was accompanied with a rough sea, which caused
the ship to roll heavily. We passed over the position assigned
to Roseta Shoal, but could not find anything of it.

At daylight, April 14th, we made Sunday Island, but owing
to the unfavorable state of the weather we did not attempt to
land upon it. It is high and rugged, and showed no evidence
of being inhabited by human beings.

During the 15th we communicated with the American
whaler, named Tobacco Plant. She had been out two years,
and during that time had captured only seven whales. The
following night was a very clear one, and many meteors were
observed, some of which left broad, luminous tracks, that were
visible for thirty seconds after the disappearance of the bodies.

On the 19th we saw a water-spout. It commenced forming
about a third of a mile to the windward of the ship, and the
water, for many yards in circumference, appeared in great
agitation, flying up in jets to the height of forty or fifty feet.

* This cognomen was given to the Torga Islands by Captain Cook, who expe-
rienced great kindness from the natives.

128 TONGA ISLAND.

It had considerable motion, and crossed the ship's bows, but
did not proceed more than two or three miles before it broke.

During the 21st we passed through large " fields of sperm-
whale-feed," a scummy-looking substance, floating on the sur-
face of the water, and of a color nearly red. It seems almost
impossible that so immense an animal could subsist on food
apparently containing so little nutriment. We were now ia
latitude 22° 45' 00" south, and longitude 174° 50' 00" east.

At 2 P. M. on the 24th we came-to off Nookualofa, the
principal town of Tonga Island, and the station of the Wes-
leyan Mission. We found here the " Flying Fish," which
had separated from us some days previous. The missionary
gentlemen, Messrs. Tucker and Rabone, paid us a visit on the
same afternoon, and from them we learned that the Christian
and heathen parties were at war* with each other.

About sunset a large double canoe, filled with warriors,
arrived. They belonged to the neighboring islands, Hapai
and Vavao, and came to assist the Christian party. This was
the first double canoe we had seen. It consisted of two canoes
joined together bj a deck thrown across them both. On the
deck a small house was erected, which answered as a cabin ;
above the house was a square platform, with a rail around it.
The mast was from forty to fifty feet in height, and carried a
long yard, upon which was spread a triangular sail made of
matting. It was steered by an oar. These canoes tack and
wear in all weathers, are good sea-boats, and sail from eight
to ten miles per hour.

April 25th. It is reported that eight heathen, or " Devils,"
and two Christians were killed last night in a skirmish, which

» Di ring our stay at Nookualofa, Captain Wilkes did all in his power to restore
peace between the parties, but without success, and I am sorry to add that the Ghns
tians were the authors of the principal diffi rulties thrown in his way.

TONGA ISLAND. 129

took place between five hundred of the latter, who had gone
out to work upon their yam-patches, and about an equal num-
ber of the heathen. These last out-numbered the Christians,
but the latter are assisted by Yaufahau, or King George of
Hapai and Vavao, who can bring in the field 800 fighting men.

About 10 A. M., Captain Wilkes, accompanied by several
of the officers, left the ship to pay a visit to King Josiah, or
Tubau, who resides at Nookualofa, and is the king of the
Christian party. In the course of the afternoon another
double-canoe arrived, having one hundred of King George's
warriors on board. They w^ere tall, fine-looking men, and all
ready for meeting the enemy ; some being armed with clubs,
some with spears, and others with muskets. They had their
faces painted in the most grotesque manner with yellow, red,
black and white stripes. I saw several with a red nose,
black cheeks, yellow chin, and green eyebrows.

April 28th. To-day several of the chiefs of the heathen
party visited the ship. According to their statement the
Christians are entirely in the fault. They assert that they
did not commence the present war, but that they were forced
into it by the Christians, who seemed determined to exterminate
them unless they exchanged the belief of their fathers for that
of the new religion. They also complained that the Christians
endeavored to deprive them of their national amusements, by
prohibiting dancing and singing.

In the afternoon I visited Nookualofa. It is pleasantly
situated, and contains from five to six hundred houses. It is
surrounded by an embankment composed of logs and earth,
on the top of which is a wicker-fence ; on the outside of the
intrenchment is a ditch about twelve feet wide by six feet
deep. There are three principal entrances, which are very
narrow and low, and have loop-holes on either side, through

130 TONGA ISLAND.

wliicli muskets may be fired in case of an attack. The build-
ings are of elliptical or circular form ; they are divided into
two or three apartments by matting or tapa screens, and those
of the better class look clean and comfortable. The furniture
consists of the ava-bowl,* a box containing all the valuables
of the family, a pile or two of mats, serving both as beds and
settees, and a few rolls of thin tapa, w^hich the inmates use as
a covering at night, and to protect them from the mosquitoes,
which are not only very abundant, but extremely troublesome.
The house of King Josiah is no larger nor better constructed
than those of his subjects. All the women and children whom
I saw were nearly white, and had pleasing features. It is the
custom here for children of both sexes to go about in a state
of nature. In the outskirts of the town I fell in with several
3^oung girls, who were employed in making tapa cloth. The
mode of proceeding was as follows : — Each piece of bark was
taken singly, and laid on a piece of wood fifteen or twenty feet
long, six inches square, and smooth on the upper side. It
was then beaten with a mallet of hard, heavy wood, about
twenty inches in length by three inches wide, till the required
extent and texture were produced. Three sides of this piece
of wood are carved in ribs or grooves, in order that one mallet
may answer for the difierent kinds of cloth that are made.
Sometimes four or five pieces of bark are necessary to make one
piece of cloth. When the cloth is made it is laid out in the
sun, where it soon dries, and is ready for use. Tw^o of these
girls had European features, with jet-black locks, which almost

* The Ava is a root of a pungent and an intoxicating nature, with which the men
are fond of indulging themselves. They employ young girls to chew it for them,
and spit it into a wooden bowl used for no other purpose ; after which a small
quantity of water is added to it, when the juice is strained into cups made of
cocoa nut-shells, and passed round amjng them. It has the eflect of making the
Bkin fall ofl" in white scales, aflects th? nerves and appetite, and brings on a pre-
mature old age.

TONGA ISLAND. 131

reached the ground. They were also very sociable, and gave
me to understand by means of signs, that the tapa I saw them
making, was intended as a bridal present to a near relative.

April 29th. At 2 P. M., the two kings, Josiah and
George, came to the Observatory to pay a ' visit to Captain
Wilkes. The latter is about forty j^ears of age, and is a
remarkably fine-looking man, being six feet and upwards in
height, with regular features, a dignified mien, and a very
intelligent face. His attire consisted simply of a large piece
of white tapa wound round his waist in loose folds, hanging
down to the feet, and leaving his arms and breast entirely
bare. He is, as has already been observed, master of Hapai
and Vavoa,* and no doubt he will ere long possess himself
of Tonga, as King Josiah is represented as a very weak-
minded old man, and caring little about the affairs of govern-
ment. Their majesties were attended by about a hundred of
their warriors, who were armed and painted after the manner
of war. Previous to returning to Nookualofa, Captain Wilkes
brought them on board the ship, and, after treating them to a
lunch, he made them some presents in the name of the
government. Josiah, or Tubou, is a son of Mumuz, who was
king in the time of the celebrated Captain Cook. He is
about sixty years of age, but he appears much older.

The two kitags had scarcely left the ship, when one of the
heathen who had been alongside for the purpose of trade,
came running up to Lieutenant Case and begged him to get
his canoe, which, he said, two of George's warriors had taken
from him by force. The circumstance was reported by Cap-
tain Wilkes to King George, who immediately gave orders for
the canoe to be returned to the owner.

* These islands are situated about thirty miles from Tonga, and are represented aa
being high, and subject to severe storms. The inhabitants are of the same extraction
as the Tongese.

132 TONGA ISLAND.

Ma}^ 1st. At 11 this morning, the " Porpoise " arrived.
In the afternoon we sent for the pilot. He came on board,
but stated that he could not take us to sea, because he had
been ordered by King George not to do so. Captain Wilkes
told him that if such was the case he might leave the ship.
He then gave orders for the vessels to get under-way, and
anchor as near the town as possible. This being done, Lieu-
tenant Case was sent to call on his majesty, and demand an
explanation for his unfriendly behavior. In a few minutes,
Mr. C. returned, and reported that King George was out
fighting, but that he had seen King Josiah, who assured him
that George had no desire to prevent our going to sea ; that
the pilot had told us a falsehood, and if Captain Wilkes
wished it, he would have him punished. We are now con-
vinced that King George knew nothing of the matter, and
that the pilot's story was the result of fear, he having heard
another pilot say that if the ship went ashore he would be
hung. He therefore did not wish to have anything to do
with us, and supposed by pretending to act under the orders
of the king, we would not force him to take the vessel to sea.

May 2d. To-day King Josiah sent on board both his
pilots, one of whom is a native of Tahiti and speaks very
good English. Towards noon, a fine breeze sprung up from
the northward and eastward. At 2 got under-way ; shortly
after the " Peacock " hove in sight— beat to windward until
we joined company with her, when we stood for the western
passage, and at 5.15 we anchored again.

May 3d. This being Sunday, at 10.30 divine service was
performed as usual. At meridian, compared chronometers
with the other vessels of the squadron. It is reported that
we leave here to-morrow.

May 4th. During these twenty-four hours the wind has

TONGA ISLAND. 133

been blowing from the southward and eastward, accompanied
with rain at intervals. At an early hour the squadron got
under-way and proceeded to sea.

I propose before I conclude this chapter, to make a few
general remarks.

Tonga Island, or Tangataboo, was discovered by the Dutch
about the middle of the seventeenth century, and was by
them named Amsterdam. It is of coral formation, and has a
lagoon, which extends about twelve miles into the interior.

The climate is not considered salubrious. The temperature
is frequently 96° in the shade, and the transitions from heat
to cold are sudden. Hurricanes prevail during the months of
January, February and March ; they vary in duration from
twelve to twenty-four hours ; and after a severe one, a famine
generally follows, in which great numbers of the inhabitants
die; they blow down trees and destroy all kinds of crops.
The native name for them is " Afa hagi fagii," which signifies
in English, the storm that throws down the trees and houses.
The soil is very fertile, being composed of several feet in
depth of vegetable mould, and is overgrown with a dense forest
of cocoa-nut trees. The productions are yams, taro, bread-
fruit, bananas, sugar-cane, shaddocks, oranges, and a species
of nutmeg.

The inhabitants are probably of the same extraction as the
natives of the Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, and the
Navigator Group, since there is an evident resemblance in
their manners, customs and language. The women are hand-
some and graceful in their manners. Those who have children
show a remarkable tenderness for them, and pay the greatest
attention to their wants.

They generally rise with the sun, and after having enjoyed
the cool of the evening, retire to their repose a short time

34 TONGA ISLAND.

after sunset. The chiefs are occupied in making canoes and
implements of war ; the common people are chiefly employed
in the cultivation of the soil and in fishing ; and the women
are engaged in the manufacture of cloths and mats. It is a
common practice for parents to make a present of their
children to chiefs, or others, who adopt them as their own.
This custom gives the chiefs many adopted children, and
tends to increase their influence and power. After the child
is grown up, one-half of its earnings goes to its adopted
parent. Rank descends altogether by the female line — hence,
if a woman is noble, the children are also noble. No people
respect old age more than the Tongese. Every aged man and
woman employ the attention and services of the younger
classes of people.

At Nookualofa, schools have been established ; houses for
stated religious worship erected ; a printmg.press put into
operation, and books published in the native dialect ; and the
children are taught, both by the missionaries and native
teachers, reading, writing, and the elementary pi'inciples of
refined education.

They barter their commodities chiefiy for whale's teeth,
blue nankeen, tortoise-shell, glass beads, looking-glasses, cut-
lery and small axes. With the whales' teeth they decorate
their spears and clubs, and make neck and ear ornaments.
They are acquainted with the use of most of our tools, and
prefer them in the construction of their houses and canoes to
their own. For some years past considerable intercourse has
been maintained with the natives of the Fejee Islands, which
are situated about 350 miles from Nookualofa. The trade
with American and European vessels is, I understand, very
limited and precarious.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 135

CHAPTER XIII.

FEJEE ISLANDS

On the 6th of May, the second day out from Nookualofa,
we made several of the southern islands of the Fejee Group,
and sent the brig " Porpoise " to survey them. All these
islands appeared high, woody, and picturesque. The weather
during the night was very misty and disagreeable.

On the morning of the 8th, we reached the harbor of
Levuka, the principal port of the Island of Ovolau. Great
numbers of the natives had collected on the beach to witness
our coming to anchor, and the sensation which the manoeuvre
created among them can be better imagined than described ;
it is no exaggeration to say, that for the next fifteen minutes it
was impossible to hear our own voices, so loud and deafening
were their shouts of admiration.

Levuka is a fine harbor, being capacious, easy of access,
and perfectly safe. Soon after we came-to, a small cutter,
belonging to the ship " Leonidas," of Salem, Mass., arrived
and anchored. She had come to purchase provisions for the
use of the ship, which was at anchor at one of the neighboring
islands.

In the afternoon, the principal chief of Ovolau, accompanied
by an American, named David Whippy, came on board to
welcome us. Our countryman told us the chief had a great
number of names, but he was best known by that of Levuka.
He is a middle-aged man, of a good height, strong and well-

136 FEJEE ISLANDS.

proportioned. The color of his skin was nearly black, and he
was entirely naked, except about the loins and head. The
latter was enveloped in rolls of very thin white tapa, which, I
was told, none but the chiefs were allowed to wear. He has a
good-natured face, and offered to procure provisions for us, or
do anything else in his power. He remained on board
upwards of an hour, and received a number of presents from
the officers ; among others, a whale's tooth, than which notliing
can be more valuable in the estimation of a Fejeean. Two
of these will buy a boat-load of yams and a dozen pigs, or a
thousand cocoa-nuts.

We learned from Whippy that there were altogether five
white men residing in Levuka Town, and that they were much
feared and respected by the natives, on account of their supe-
rior knowledge. He also mentioned their being married to
Fejee women, and having large families of children.

At an early hour on the 9th, Captain Wilkes, with a num-
ber of the officers from this ship and the " Peacock," set out
on an excursion to the heights in the interior of the island.
On this day we also sent on shore all the scientific instruments.
About sunset Captain Wilkes and party returned. They
succeeded in reaching the summit of Andulong, the highest
mountain in the island, and made many interesting discoveries
in the botany of the country.

The following day Mr. B. and myself visited the shore.
We landed on the beach abreast of the town, where we found
great numbers of men, women and children assembled. A
walk of but a few yards brought us to the Spirit-house, or
'' Booree," which we were invited to enter by the Chief
Levuka, and his attendants, who were sitting in it at the time.
Each town or village has one of these buildings.
This one stands on the top of a mount, which has be^A raised

FEJEE ISLANDS. 137

by the hands of man eight or ten feet above the common build-
ings. It has a square shape, with a roof running up to a
point in the centre, and is profusely ornamented with the white
cowry. The sides are made of reeds of a uniform size, bound
together, side by side, with senet. In the front, there are
two stone-steps, each of which leads to a doorway. The floor
is raised about six inches above the ground, and is covered
with mats, two and three thick. At one side there is a fire
place, over which is suspended a platform made of reeds
There were also some spears and clubs standing up in one of
the corners ; but no images, nor anything that gave the slightest
indication of its being a place of worship were to be seen.
While we remained here several of the people who inhabit the
mountainous parts of the island, came to make presents to
Levuka, in proof of their good faith. It was a novel and sin-
gular ceremony. Each one, as he entered the Spirit-house,
paused, and in a loud and solemn tone pronounced the word
" Booree ;" he then advanced to the centre of the building,
where he deposited his present, consisting of yams, taro,
bananas, ava, pigs, &c., &c. This over, he threw himself on
his knees, and bowed to the chief three times; after which
he arose and took his leave. These dissentions between the
natives occupying the shores and those who live in the interior,
are common to all the islands, and are carried on in the most
cowardly and brutal manner. Often in the dead hour of night
a band of these savages will pounce upon some unsuspecting
family, or hamlet, and make an indiscriminate slaughter of
men, women and children. A man and his wife, going to culti-
vate their yam-patch, may be surprised by 50 or 100 warriors,
carried oif, cooked and eaten. A brave, fearless meeting of
hostile parties in the open field to decide their disputes by
deeds of noble daring never takes place.

1S8 FEJEE ISLANDS.

From the Spirit-house we went to visit some of the common
houses. These had very steep roofs, low sides, and only one
door, and that made low and narrow, as a protection against the
entrance of enemies, or that they may club them while creep-
ing in, should they attempt it. Cocoa-nut or pandanus-wood
and bamboos, with leaves of sugar-cane, are the materials em-
ployed in their construction. The interior is without partition
or separate apartments ; the floor is made of earth, sand, or
gravel, strewed over with cocoa-nut leaves, and covered with
mats. One side of the floor is raised about eight inches higher
than the rest, which is called the bed-place, where they sleep.
It is generally covered with a double layer of mats. Their
pillows are made of a round stick, about the diameter of a
spade-handle, with pins about four inches long stuck in it for
the feet. Some of these are suflBciently long to accommodate
three or four persons. Towards one corner of the building,
a space, about five feet square, is inclosed by four large square
logs of hard wood. This inclosure is the general cooking-place.
The principal cookmg-utensil is a large clay-jar, with a spheri-
cal bottom ; it is permanently fixed on its side, near the bot-
tom, at an angle of about forty-five degrees from perpendicular,
with a space under it to admit fire. Over the cooking-place
is a platform, upon which they dry and smoke much of their
provisions. As these houses have no chimneys, they are, as
might be supposed, filled with smoke and soot. I was sur-
prised to find the houses belonging to the white residents
no better furnished than those of the natives. They eat,
sleep, and sit on the floor like the savages with whom they
associate. I also observed that their children are brought up
\ike those of the natives, in ignorance and nakedness.

Having seen all that was new or strange about the town,
we set out to take a walk into the interior of the island.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 139

Though mountainous, it is very fertile and picturesque.
Change of place changed not the scene. Everywhere it pre-
sented the richest soil and most luxuriant vegetation — the
verdure running even into the sea. Vines and trees sprung
from the very rocks, while the neatly-thatched cottages of the
natives, seemingly dropped, perchance, over the landscape,
and peeping through cocoa-nut and bread-fruit tree groves,
gave a lively appearance to the coup-d^oeiL In this delightful
walk we met numbers of people, some traveling down to the
ships with their burdens of fruit, others returning empty.
They all gave us the road, turning to the right and left, and
standing still till we passed.

We got back to the town just in time to witness another in-
teresting sight. During our walk several of the " Peacock's"
officers came on shore, and they prevailed on Levuka to give
them a native dance and song. The performers were all
young unmarried women, and the dance consisted of a kind of
a hopping-step, accompanied with clapping of the hands. The
subject of the song was the return of the king, Tanoa, to
Ambou, after a war which obliged him to fly to a neighbor-
ing island. When the performance was over, most of these
damsels came to the place where we were standing, and de-
sired us to give them some paint. We each happened to have
some about us, and shared it out among them, and in a few
minutes after we saw them with their faces besmeared with it.
They, like all the other women we had seen, were almost
naked. In col*or they were a shade lighter than the men, and
several had dehcate, pleasing features.

On the morning of the 11th, several of the boats left the
ship on surveying duties. About noon the " Flying Fish" ar-
rived. Her Commander reported that she had run on the
reef off the Island of Nirai, and for several hours was threat

140 FEJEE ISLANDS.

ened with total sliip wreck. She was finally, however, hauled
off, and the only damage sustained was the loss of part of her
false keel.

In the course of the 12th, King Tanoa arrived from Am-
bon, and sent his messenger on board to say to Captain
Wilkes that he and his chiefs were coming next day to pay
him an ofiicial visit. The messenger was instructed to state
to the king that we would be prepared to receive him. His
majesty disembarked, accompanied by his attendants, and
proceeded directly to the Council House, which is the place
where all strangers are entertained. Here they seated them-
selves, and coijimenced exchanging compliments with the Chief
Levuka, and his head men. When this was over, the common
people brought food and placed it before the visitors ; it con-
sisted of yams, taro, bread-fruit, and a roasted pig ; the
present was accompanied by a speech from Levuka, to which
the King's Prime Minister replied ; then came clapping of
hands, which is the Fejee mode of expressing thanks. When
the meal was over, they all indulged in large potations of ava,
which also was furnished by the Levukians.

At 10 A. M., the king and his chiefs visited the ship.
They were received with a guard and by all the officers belong.-
ing to the " Peacock," Flying Fish," and this ship. The
quarter-deck was also dressed off for their reception. When
the king came over the side Captain Wilkes took him by the
hand, and led him aft on the quarter-deck, where he was in-
vited to take a seat. For a considerable time his majesty
said nothing, nor could we conjecture what caused him to
be so silent ; at length, however, he directed the interpreter,
David Whippy, to ask if we were offended with him, adding,
that he was led to suppose so, from the fact that we did not
fire a salute upon his coming on board. Whippy was directed

FEJEE ISLANDS. 141

to assure him that we were pleased to see him, and to add, that
it was our intention, before he left the ship, to fire a large
salute. The king being satisfied with this explanation, a
council was held, which resulted in the adoption of rules and
regulations for the intercourse of American vessels, similar to
those estabhshed at the Naf^gator and Society Islands.* This
business over. Captain Wilkes invited all the company into
the cabin, where a collation was prepared. The sight of so
many new things as the cabin presented, excited their highest
admiration and wonder. In about half an hour the king rose
up and expressed a wish to examine the ship ; upon which.
Captain W. took him around all the decks. He expressed
great astonishment at the number and size of our guns and at
the ship's wheel, and observed, that he could not understand
how we could steer our " big canoe" by such contrivance.

On returning to the spar-deck the salute was ordered to be
fired. He was greatly terrified at the firing of the third gun,
which had been charged with a stand of grape that he might
see their efiect, and desired the interpreter to say to Captain
Wilkes that he was satisfied, and request him to stop firing.
When the company returned to the quarter-deck, the purser
made them suitable presents in the name of the government ;
these consisted of axes, plain-irons, accordions, whales' teeth,
shawls, muskets, watches, Windsor soap, tobacco and pipes ;
they were received with much clapping of hands. His majesty
was highly delighted after this on seeing the marine guard go
through the manual exercise. In expressing their satisfaction
at anything, they repeat the word "vinaka" several times
very quickly. Nothing more of importance passed, and shortly
after, the king rose to take his leave. The guard was turned

* A copy of these Rules may be sees in the Appendix.

142 FEJEE ISLANDS,

out, and the same honors paid him on his going away, as when
he came on board.

Tanoa belongs to the highest order of chiefs and is con-
sidered very powerfuh He is about 70 years of age, tall and
slender ; his countenance is pleasing and intelligent ; he wore
the maro with long ends hanging dSwn before and behind, and
the usual head-dress of the chiefs called " Sala." On his
breast hung an ornament about eighteen inches in circumfer-
ence made of ivory, tortoise shell and mother-of-pearl. Upon
his arms he had strings of trochus shell ground down so as to
resemble rings ; his face, beard and moustaches were bedaubed
with black paint ; his hair, like that of all his people is crispy.
He has a great impediment in his speech, so much so, that there
are few persons who can understand him. He is a good friend
to the whites, and calls those who live in his dominions his
'children, and causes the other natives to treat them with kind-
ness and respect. His suite on this occasion consisted of
twelve chiefs, and several Tonga men who seemed to be great
favorites with him. All these chiefs were young looking men,
and their countenances indicated shrewdness and intelligence .

Whippy told us, that after they left the ship, they had a
great deal to say about their reception ; and all seemed to be
pleased, and expressed the wish that "big canoes" would often
come to visit them.

May 14th. The kmg paid us another long visit to-day. He
came on board, when the colors were hoisted, and did not go
away until a few minutes before sunset. He told us he came
this time " to see for himself," and asked to dispense with all
ceremony. About 1 o'clock two of his people came along-
side with his dinner. He sent word to them that he had been
invited to dine on board the ship, and to take the dinner on
shore again \' it was brought in an iron pot, and consisted of

FEJEE ISLANDS. 143

yams and taro. On leaving the ship he shook hands with all
the officers, and mentioned that he should return to-morrow to
Ambou, and in a few days his son Seruh would pay us a visit.
May 15th. This morning the " Peacock " got under-way
and stood out to sea , I understand she has orders to proceed
direct to Rewa, and make every endeavor to capture the chief
Vendovi — it being known that he is deeply implicated in the
murders committed on the crew of the brig "Charles Daggett."
The details of this horrible transaction are, as near as we can
learn, as follows : — The brig, some years since, came among
these islands to obtain Biche de Mar.* The captain,
(Bachelor,) became acquainted with Vendovi, and having, as he
supposed, obtained his good-will, determined to make his
island one of the principal stations. They previously took on
board, as pilots and interpreters, several white men who were
living on the islands. He also took the precaution at first of
keeping a chief, as hostage, on board ; but who, after a few days,
pretending to be sick, was sent on shore. One of the inter-
preters, who was then at the Biche de Mar house, perceiving
this, and observing at the same time some suspicious move-
ments among the natives, became convinced that they had
formed the design of taking the vessel, and as soon as he saw
the mate told him what he had observed, and cautioned him
to be on his guard. The mate immediately came to the same
conclusion, and turned to walk to the landing-place, where he
had left his boat ; but Vendovi, who was in company with him
suspected that his treachery had been detected, and he deter-
mined to secure him. He took the hand of the mate in a friendly
manner, and walked along some distance with him. Then
suddenly stopping, he seized both the mate's arms and pinioned

* This animal is sometimes called Sea-Slug. It is found on the reefs, and when pre-
pared, it is sent to China, where it is used as an ingredient in soup.

144 FEJEE ISLANDS.

them to his side. This was the signal for a general assault.
Some of the savages beat out the brains of the mate witL
clubs while he was held by Vendovi, and a large number
attacked the house in which the other men were, and killed
two of them. The interpreter and a Tahitian escaped with
great difficulty by swimming off to a boat. The next day the
bodies of the murdered men were obtained by paying a musket
for them, and were buried along-side the vessel.

Rewa is situated on the eastern side of the Island of Viti-
levu, and contains between two and three hundred houses.
Its chief is styled a king, and, like Tanoa, exercises absolute
authority over his people.

May ITth. To-day, David Bateman (marine) departed this
life. He had been sick some time with an affection of the
lungs. He was removed to this ship about ten days ago, from
the '' Porpoise," and was then very ill. Since our arrival
here he was sent on shore, where a suitable place was provided
for him, and every attention shown him by the surgeon of the
vessel. He was buried in a small garden belonging to one of
the white residents.

May 19th. We should judge from the great quantities of
fish which have been brought along-side for sale for the past
two or three days, that they are very abundant in these waters.
They were taken mostly by the women, on the reefs, at low
water, by means of hand-nets. It is a very common thing for
the natives of the other islands to land on these reefs, and
carry off the women for cannibal purposes. I was an eye-
witness of an attempt of the kind made yesterday after-
noon. About 4 o'clock, a canoe, manned by three men,
rounded the southern point off the island, and stood in for the
reef. The women immediately threw down their nets and
plunged into the water ; clubs and pieces of coral were then

FEJEE ISLANDS. 145

thrown at them by their pursuers, and at length two of the
poor creatures were captured. The canoe, however, soon cap-
sized ; and, while the men were employed in righting it, the
two women succeeded in making their escape, for their pursuers
dared not to follow them very close into the shore, lest they,
should themselves fall into the hands of the enraged Levukians.
It is said that the flesh of women is preferred to that of men ;
and that they consider the arms and thighs the choicest parts.
This forenoon we received a visit from Tanoa's son, Seruh,
and his attendant chiefs. He had the same honors paid him
as were shown to his father. He is between twenty-five and
thirty years old — has regular features and a good figure. His
behavior was proper enough while in our company ; but I am
informed by the resident whites that he is exceedingly haughty
and overbearing towards the natives. He takes advantage of
his high position to plunder the lower order of chiefs of their
whales' teeth, muskets, knives, or anything else they may have
in their possession, which he fancies. Indeed, his eye bespeaks
a savage, tyrannical heart. He is the eldest of Tanoa's sons
— consequently is the heir to the kingly power. His dress con-
sisted of the tapa turban, a large whale's tooth, wliich hung
pendent on his breast, two armlets made of the leaf of pan-
danus, resembling light yellow ribbon, and the *' Searo,'^ or
white tapa, which was wound round his waist four or five
times, leaving one end of it trailing on the deck. His hair
and beard were jet black, and combed and twisted with great
care. The Fejee chiefs pay great attention to this part of
their toilet, and have regular barbers attached to their estab-
hshments. Seruh had his prophet, or " Ambati," with him,
who appeared to be a shrewd, intelligent man. The whole
party seemed dehghted with the ship, and made us quite a
visitation.

146 FEJEE ISLANDS.

May 21st. We hear that the " Peacock " has succeeded
in captunng Vendovi. It was effected by seizing his brother
chiefs, and retaining them on board the ship until he was
deUvered up to Captain Hudson.

It is very gratifying for us to learn that a messenger arrived
here this afternoon from Ambou, with permission for the
Chief Levuka to take the taboo off the cocoa-nut trees. This
will enable us to procure the fruit in future. The taboo was
laid on a short time previous to our arrival in the islands, and,
I am informed, was done out of respect to a high chief, who
was drowned in the harbor of Rewa. None but chiefs of high
rank can remove the taboo; hence the necessity of waiting
in the present instance for the chiefs of Ambou to give orders
on the subject. The taboo lasts from two to twelve months
in the case of chiefs, according to their rank for a common
person, usually about four days. Trees that are tabooed have
bands of pandanus or cocoa-nut leaves fastened around them,
and a piece of wood is set up in a small mound of earth near by.

May 22d. At sunset we sent eleven men to the observa-
tory, armed with muskets and cutlasses. We were advised
to take this precautionary step by Whippy and the other
whites residing on the island, who, of course, are well ac-
quainted with the character of the natives. They assured us
that Vendovi's friends were watching for an opportunity to
avenge themselves upon us ; and if we had any property on
shore, it could not be too well protected. It is the Fejee cus-
tom to attack their enemies under cover of night, when it is
not easy to discover their approach. From what I have seen
and heard, I think they are the most treacherous and cowardly
people on the face of the earth.

May 23d. It is reported here that the greatest excitement
prevails at Rewa on account of Vendovi's capture. Shotted

FEJEE ISLANDS. 147

all the guns ; shifted our berth nearer the Observatory, and at
sunset sent 25 men in charge of Messrs. De Haven and San-
ford to protect it. We also have Tanoa's son, Seruh, on
board as a hostage. Signals were concerted with the observa-
tory in case of an attack, and the battery got ready to give an
enemy a warm reception.

May 24th. At an early hour this morning Seruh took his
departure for Ambou. To-day one of the sailors stationed at
the Observatory, reported a native for stealing his sheath-
knife. Levuka immediately had the thief apprehended, and
sent on board for us to punish. He is now confined in the
"Brig," but he denies having taken the knife in question;
yet Levuka wonders that we do not kill him !

May 25th. This afternoon the native prisoner alluded to
in the foregoing remarks, was released from confinement, as
there was not sufficient proof to establish his guilt. The poor
fellow's joy amounted well nigh to a phrenzy. He shouted
and clapped his hands, and then running up to the spar-deck,
he plunged into the water and swam to the shore. A canoe,
which arrived a few hours since from Rewa, reports that the
excitement caused by the capture of Vendovi has entirely sub-
sided, and a majority of the people considered him a dangerous
individual, and were glad to have him removed from among
them.

June 2d. At 1.15 P. M., H. B. M. schooner " Starling,"
tender to the " Sulphur," Captain Belcher, arrived direct
from Rewa. Her commander. Lieutenant Kellet, informed
us that the object of his visit was to obtain from us a rudder-
pintle for the " Sulphur," she having carried away one of
hers by encountering a coral-rock when going into Rewa.

Seruh paid us another visit to-day, and brought yams, pigs,
and other provisions, as a present.

148 FEJEE ISLANDS.

June 29 th. Nothing of much interest has transpired during
the past four -weeks. We have been engaged most of the time
in surveying the islands and reefs in the vicinity of Ovalau.
One day some thirty of Tanoa's vives visited the ship ; they
were rather good-looking and quite young, excepting one.
She, I should judge, was about fifty years of age, and Whippy
told me that she was the only one of all the king's wives who
bore the title of queen. Her attire was like that of the other
females. She wore the " leeku." She had a profusion of
shell-ornaments upon her neck and arms, and her body was
smeared from head to foot with a mixture of oil and turmeric.
Her hair was dressed in a very grotesque manner, and dyed
black, white and red — its natural hue being grsbj.

They made a long visit, and told us that they were coming
again next day, but, fortunately for us, they scarcely reached
the shore when they received orders from the old king to
return to Ambou immediately. Their curiosity was so great
as to be very annoying after a little while ; they wanted to
handle and examine everything they saw.

On the 2Tth we broke up the Observatory, and proceeded
to make preparations for going to sea.

July 3d. We reached Savu-Savu Bay on the Island of
Venua-levu.* It is a fine sheet of water, affording a number
of good anchorages ; among others, the one in which we are
now lying, called by the natives, W^aicama, (harbor of hot-
springs,) from the circumstance of there being springs of that
character in its vicinity. It may be described as being a deep
cove, surrounded by a highly picturesque country, and so well

* This is one of the largest islands in the Group. It is upwards of a hundred
miles long, and from thirty to sixty in breadth. Its general character is mountain-
ous, but the soil is fertile, especially in the valleys. Bread-fruit, cocoa-nut trees,
and many others aflbrding food for man, are abundant. Yams and taro are the prin
cipal crops.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 149

protected from both sea and wind, that vessels may lie in it at
all seasons of the year without the least fear of danger. The
hot-springs alluded to are seven in number — two of them issue
from a rock, Avhich at high tide is overflowed ; the remaining
five are located in a small valley, and within a few yards of
the margin of a mountain-stream. The temperature of the
two first-mentioned springs was 200°, that of the five, 210°, .
and that of the stream 75°. The rock in the neighborhood is
of a volcanic origin, but there is no smell of sulphur ; the water
is very clear, and has a brackish, or saline taste. It is a
common practice for the natives residing about the bay to cook
their food in those springs, and I w^as shown one in which
I was told human flesh had been cooked only a few days be-
fore. The account the natives give of them is, that they have
always been in the same state, and that they are the abode of
a spirit which it would be dangerous to offend, as it might at
any time destroy the inhabitants by causing the hot waters to
overflow the island. There is one priest, who pretends to
have communication with the spirit, and there was a " Booree''
near by the spring in wdiich their interviews took place.

The natives also informed us that formerly this part of
Venua-levu was very populous, but constant dissensions had
nearly depopulated k. On the top of a hill about .two miles
from the beach were the ruins of a very large Fejee
fort.

At daylight on the 5th, we were again under way, and by 5
P. M. on the same day, we arrived at Sandal-wood Bay, or
Mabua, where we found the " Peacock." Sandal-wood Bay is
a large circular basin open to the sea. The neighboring
country is not so interesting as that about Savu-Savu Bay,
and the sandal-wood tree by which it was once covered, has
become almost extinct.

150 FEJEE ISLANDS.

The principal town is situated on a river, and was said to
be the theatre of continual broils between two brothers. It
contains from sixty to seventy houses, and is surrounded with
pallisades formed of trees and other timber, and a ditch. The
inhabitants were the most docile* we had ever met in the
group, and supplied us with plenty of fresh provisions. In
some of the houses graves were observed, which the white re-
sidents told us were placed there to protect them from the
enemy.

Soon after we let-go the anchor a boat came along-side from
the " Peacock" bringing Vendovif ; the officer who had charge
of him informed me that he had acknowledged to Captain
Hudson his guilt in causing the murder of part of the crew of
the " Charles Daggett," and admitted that he had held the
mate by the arms, while the natives killed him with clubs.
He is about thirty-five years of age, tall and rather slender, and
has a countenance which belies his character — its expression is
mild and benevolent. He was placed under the charge of a
sentry, with orders not to allow any one to speak to him. At
the same time the master-at-arms was called up, and directed
to see that he received his meals at the proper hours.

During the Tth, 8th and 9th, we experienced heavy gales,
accompanied with a tremendous swell. On the latter day,
the purser of the squadron reported the salt provisions as run-
ning short, and recommended a reduction to be made in the
rations.

On the 12th, between the hours of 2 and 3 o'clock P. M.
we descried a small sail standing in the bay. It proved to

» This was to have been expected, for their intercourse with the whites has been
more frequent than that of any other part of the group. It is here that such large
quantities of sandal-wood have been shipped for the China market.

t Yendovi was taken to the United States, but soon after his arrival he sickened and
died in the Navy Hospital at Brooklyn, New York.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 151

be our launch, which, together with the first cutter in charge
of Mr. Knox, left the ship a few days previous on surveying
duties. It was expected that the first cutter would make her
appearance next, but moment after moment passed away with-
out our being able to see anything of her. Some, therefore,
believed that she had capsized during the recent storms, others
that she had been captured by the natives. At last, the launch
reached the ship, when it appeared from Mr. Knox's report,
that the latter opinion was correct. He stated that she got
on a reef near by Sualib Bay, and while he was endeavoring
to get her off*, the natives came out in great numbers, armed
with clubs and muskets, and claimed the boat and everything
in her as their property.* He ordered his party to repel the
robbers, but soon discovered he was completely in their
power, as all his ammunition was saturated vfith salt wa-
ter. He was, therefore, compelled to leave the cutter in the
possession of the natives and take refuge on board the launch.
After Mr. Knox left, the robbers dragged the boat' over the
reef and stripped her of everything. They then appeared to be
anxiously watching the launch, and even fired their muskets
at her. Immediately on receiving the report, orders were
given for several boats to be fitted out from the " Peacock"
and this ship, with all possible dispatch. About sunset the
boats were reported to be in readiness, and Captain Wilkes
accompanied by Captain Hudson, proceeded on board the
" Flying Fish," and in a few minutes after they all made sail,
and stood out the harbor. At an early hour next morning
they reached Sualib Bay. After coming to an anchor, the
pilot was sent on shore to hold a parley with the natives, and

* Any canoe or vessel when driven on shore is accounted an offering to the gods.
\11 that it contains is considered as belonging to the people of the district where the
accident happens.

152 FEJEE ISLANDS.

state to them that if they restored the boat and the things*
found in her, they would for tliis time be forgiven. But the
savages would not even comply with these terms, and Captain
Wilkes deemed it his duty to chastise them in order that they
might be convinced that such outrages could no longer be com-
mitted without receiving punishment. Accordingly, a large
force, commanded by Captain Hudson, proceeded on shore,
fired two of their villages, containing from thirty to forty huts
each, and broke up all the canoes. It is not known that any
lives were lost on either side. Indeed, our people had no oc-
casion to fire a single shot, as the savages proved themselves
to be arrant cowards ; the moment they saw Captain Hudson
disembark, they fled in all directions, so that when he reached
their towns he found them completely deserted.

When the work of destruction was over, our people returned
to the beach, launched the captured cutter, and then embarked
and proceeded on board the schooner. Soon afterward they
set out to rejoin the ships in Sandal-wood Bay, which they
accomplished about midnight.

On the 15th, Captain Wilkes left in the '' Flying Fish,"
to take a tour round the islands. Messrs. Alden and Henry
in the first cutter, and Mr. Underwood in a boat named
'' Leopard," also left the ship on surveying duties.

July 21st, we performed the last offices to one who lost
his life by an accident that befell him while he was assisting
us in our duties ; I allude to Mr. Baxter, mate of the ship
" Leonidas," of Salem. The particulars are as follows : —
When the " Peacock " arrived at Matawata Bay, she found
the " Leonidas " there ; and there being a great deal of sur-

* Tlie value of these things which consisted of the men's clothing, of hooks, charts,
and instruments of the ofiicers, sails, water casks, oars, &c., was estimated at $1,500.
Thev were never recover i.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 153

veying to be done, and a number of base lines to be measured
by sound, she was requested by Captain Hudson to fire her
guns as signals. The request was complied with, and Mr
Baxter acted as gunner. He had fired the first gun, and was
re-priming for the second, when a spark coming from a part
of the cylinder which hung in the chamber of the gun, com-
municated with the powder-horn which he held in his hand,
and exploded. This communicated with a cylinder weighing
about two pounds, which he carried in the bosom of his shirt,
which also exploded, and burned his breast, stomach and face
in the most dreadful manner. He was immediately conveyed to
the " Peacock," where every attention was shown him. On
her arrival at this place he was sent on shore, where a com-
fortable tent was erected for his accommodation. He was
constantly attended by a surgeon, but to no purpose. After
forty days and forty nights of the most excruciating suf-
fering, he expired. He was buried on a point near the
ships, with a head-stone and suitable epitaph. He was a
native of France, and in his last moments communicated to
Doctor Guillou his real name, which was Vincente Pierre
Boudette.

It is proper to state that the cylinders used on the occasion
were made of canvas. Had they been flannel, the usual
material, we presume the accident would not have happened.

On the 22d, the " Peacock " got under-way, with orders to
proceed to Matawata Bay.

On the afternoon of the 28th, Captain Hudson came on
board ; and at an early hour the following day, we set out to
join the " Peacock " ; but the wind fell light and baffling, and
we finally were obliged to anchor again off Naloa Bay, to keep
from being drifted on the neighboring reef. Naloa Bay is
remarkable as the spot where the Chevalier Dillon was attacked

154 FEJEE ISLANDS.

by the natives. Here, also, the " Leonidas " had one of her
sailors killed by a chief, named Gingi, only a feAV weeks
before. The reason he assigned for the act was, that the
sailor had maltreated him when he was to the islands in a
previous voyage. We endeavored to seize the murderer, but
vrithout success.

We saw some pottery here of an excellent quality, manu-
factured by the native women. The clay used is of a red
color, and is obtained in great quantities on the shores of the
bay. Some of the vessels were very gracefully shaped, and
had tracings executed upon them by young girls with the fibres
of a cocoa-nut leaf. The pots are dried in the open air ; and
for baking them they use a common wood fire, without any
oven ; but the tenacity of the clay is such, that even without
baking the pottery is sufiiciently strong. The different parts
are all made separately and afterwards joined ; but this is
done so well, that it is impossible to discover the joints,
especially if the vessel has been varnished.*

About noon next day (29th), we arrived at the place of our
destination.

Matawata is a large town, and situated near the beach.
The country around it is quite level — has but few trees on it,
and the soil does not appear to be fertile ; but the town is well
built, and has considerable trade in Biche de Mar and tor-
toise-shell.

The king's name is Tui-Matawata. He is old, and suffers
very much from the elephantiasis — so much so, that he can
scarcely walk. He has several wives ; among others, one
called Henrietta, who is a native of Rotuma — has a fair com-
plexion, and is quite good-looking. Our pilot was well

This varnish consists of the resin of a species of pine, mixed with a decoction
of the mangrove bark.

FEJEE ISLANDS. 155

acquainted with her history ; and one day he related to me the
circumstances under which she came, or rather was forced, to
marry the old king. She had, while at her native island,
married a Tahitian who was residing there, and had gone with
him to Tahiti on a visit. Wishing to return to their home,
they had taken passage on board of a Salem vessel engaged in
the Biche de Msly trade. On arriving at Matawata, they
were invited to land and remain with some of her countrymen,
many of whom were residing there. Unfortunately, the king
saw her, and took a fancy to her ; and he immediately killed
and feasted on her husband, and then compelled her to become
one of his wives. The pilot added, that she was disgusted with
the old savage, and if she ever had the chance to run away
from him, she would avail herself of it.

We found at Matawata a large number of plants which are
not noticed in any of the botanical works.

On the 30th of July we commenced to survey the bay.
Next morning all the signals were found missing, the natives
having stolen them during the night. As such acts were cal-
culated to delay our operations, Captain Hudson sent an officer
to the king to state to him, that if the signals were not re-
stored by 12 o'clock on the same day, he should be obliged to
send an armed force on shore to punish the inhabitants. He
requested the officer to inform Captain Hudson that it was not
hi^ people who had stolen the flags, but the natives who lived in
the mountains, and over whom he had no control. We had
good reasons for doubting his majesty's veracity, and on re-
demanding the signals they were brought on board. This
incident shows how little dependence can be placed on the
word of a Fejeeian. Indeed, I have been assured that they
tell a falsehood in preference, when the truth would better
answer their purpose ; and adroit lying is regarded as an

156 MASSACRE OF LIEUTENANT UNDERWOOD

accomplishment, and one who is expert at it is sure of a
friendly reception wherever he goes. When the white resi-
dents wish to obtain the truth, they invariably request them
not to tell lies.

On the 31st, several of our boats returned from the leeward
Islands, bringing the melancholy intelligence of the murder of
Messrs. Underwood and Henry by the natives of Malolo.
We learned by the same boats of the death of one of the
sailors, named Smith, who was attached to the schooner
" Tyvity"* as one of her crew.

The following are the circumstances connected with the
death of Messrs. Underwood and Henry : —

On the 23d ultimo, Lieutenants Alden and Underwood
came to anchor on the reef at Malololie, which is connected
with the large island Malolo, by a coral isthmus, bare at low
water. Here Mr. Underwood landed alone, and soon encoun-
tered a boy with an armful of clubs, who, when asked whether
any provisons could be purchased in the neighborhood, answered,
"plenty, plenty." Mr. Underwood directed him to lead the
way to the place he referred to. On the beach they fell in
with a party of men who were quite as much confused at the
sight of Mr. Underwood as the boy had been before. At this
juncture, Lieutenant Alden recalled Mr. Underwood by sig-
nal, and this, perhaps, prevented an attack on him that after-
noon. The next morning (July 24tli), the " Peacock's" cutter
joined the other boats. The scarcity of provisions, and the
distance of the schooner, whose own necessities were also
pressing, now made it absolutely necessary to obtain supplies
ashore. The natives pretended to have an abundance of food
at the village of Malolo-levu, but could not be induced to

* The schooner belonged to one of the white men residing on Ovolau, and was
hired to go about the islands to procure fresh provisions for the squadron.

AND MIDSHIPMAN HENRY. 157

transport it across the isthmus, ■which was impassable fof
boats, except at high-water. While trying to think of some
way of removing this difficulty, a man, who called himself the
orator of the town, arrived, and delivered an invitation from
his chief to go to Malolo-levu, and take off a present that had
been prepared for them on the beach. This story of Fejee
manufacture, was little credited, but as there was reason to
believe that provisions might be purchased from some of the
natives, and the case was urgent, Mr. Underwood, whose
boat drew the least water, volunteered to make the attempt.
Accordingly, in a few minutes he shoved off; but after pulling
a short distance, observing that he had no one with him who
could talk with the natives, he returned and asked for a New
Zealander, named John Sack. Having taken this man, he
again shoved off and pulled for the beach. Mr. Alden fol-
lowed as soon as the tide permitted, and Mr. Emmons, after
taking a round of angles. Lieutenant Alden lost no time,
after anchoring off the town, in getting a chief in his boat as a
hostage for Mr. Underwood's safety. This native early at-
tempted to escape in a canoe, but Mr. Alden forced him back
into the boat, and threatened to shoot him if he did so again.
In the meantime Mr. Underwood continued to barter with the
natives, and sent off a message to Mr. Alden for muskets and
powder, which could not be supplied. Mr. Henry now re-
quested permission to land, and during his absence Mr. Em-
mons arrived. A second message soon afterwards came from
Mr. Underwood, requiring another hatchet to effect his pur-
chase. Lieutenant Alden sent the hatchet, with directions to
Mr. U., that as the natives did not appear to be willing to
trade, he should lose no time in coming off in his boat. At
this moment the hostage jumped overboard, and made for the
shore in a diagonal line to avoid being shot at. Mr. Alden

158 MASSACRE OF LIEUTENANT UNDERWOOD

immediately leveled liis gun at him, and ordered him to stop ;
he slackened his pace for a moment, and then continued to
retreat, upon -which a ball was fired over his head, but none
at his body, lest it might provoke an attack on Lieutenant
Underwood. The escape of the hostage was evidently the
preconcerted signal for an attack on the shore-party. The
chief immediately gave orders to make fight, by the cr}' of
" Turanga," " Turanga." Mr. Underwood vras at this mo-
ment knocked down and wounded in the shoulder with a
spear, but he recovered from the stunning effects of the blow,
and killed the native who threw the spear. At the same time
two other natives seized the musket of a sailor, named Clark,
and tried to wrest it from him. One of these he stabbed
in the breast with his sheath-knife, the other Mr. Underwood
struck on the head with the butt-end of his pistol, upon which
both relinquished their hold. Lieutenant Underwood now
ordered the crew to lose no time in regaining the boat, while
he and JVIr. Henry covered their retreat. In this effort he
killed a native with one of his pistols, and was in the act of
drawing the second from His belt, when a blow which he re-
ceived on the head, brought him to the ground almost sense-
less. Recovering himself he renewed the contest, and killed
another native, but at length received a cut across the fore-
head with a pole-axe, which terminated his valuable life.

In the meantime Mr. Henry had shot one of the natives
with his pistol-knife, and cut another down with the same
weapon, but seeing Lieutenant Underwood dead, was hastening
to the boat, when a missile struck him on the back of the head
and brought hina to the ground. Clark, after shooting the
man who killed Mr. Underwood, succeeded in regaining the
boat, but was severely wounded.

On seeing the attack. Lieutenants Alden and E)ramou3

AND MIDSHIPMAN HENRY. 159

Steered for the shore with the boats under their charge. When
the boats reached the beach, the savages retreated precipi-
tately in the mangrove bushes, carrying with them their dead
and wounded. Mr. Alden was among the first who landed,
and going up to Mr. Underwood he raised his head, and asked
him if he had anything to communicate through him to his
poor wife; but, alas ! he w^as too far gone to speak. His
skull was literally smashed to pieces. Some hopes were at
first entertained that Mr. Henry was yet alive, but when a
vein was opened no blood was found to flow. Both bodies had
been stripped by the natives, and were laying in the sand,
whence they were convej^ed to the boats. Mr. Emmons took
possession of a canoe that the natives had abandoned, andi no
enemy being now in sight, the boats, with colors half-masted
and union down, sailed across the isthmus and escaped by a pas-
sage, where they might have been attacked at great advantage.

The schooner by this time got under-w^ay without suspicion
of any disaster. The sensation that was excited when the
boats arrived along-side and exposed to view the mangled
bodies, can be more easily imagined than described. Captain
Wilkes, in particular, wept over them like a child. He kissed
his nephew, Mr. Henry, on the face several times, and then
turning around to Mr. Underwood, patted him on the breast
and repeated the vfords, " Poor fellow." Every attention was
paid to the wounded and dead, that affection and regard could
dictate.

There being no doubt from the reports of all parties pre-
sent, that this outrage was entirely unprovoked. Captain
Wilkes determined to inflict the punishment it merited, and
this, not because he wished to gratify any feelings of revenge,
but for the sake of saving the lives of other whites who might
visit the Group after the expedition left.

160 MASSACRE OF LIEUTENANT UNDERWOOD

Accordingly, the first cutters of the " Vincennes " and
" Peacock," now in charge of Mr. Eld, were dispatched to
keep guard round the island, and prevent the escape of any of
the inhabitants, while the schooner got under-way, and pro-
ceeded to a small island to inter the dead. Here they w'ere
laid side by side in the same grave. It was a lonely and suit-
able spot that had been chosen in a shade so dense that scarce
a ray of the sun could penetrate it. The grave was dug deep
in the pure white sand, and sufficiently wide for the tvro
corpses. Mr. Agate read the funeral service. After the
graves had been closed,- three voUies were fired over them.
Every precaution was then taken to obliterate all marks that
might indicate to the odious cannibals, the resting-place of the
sacred dead. Places remote from the grave were more dis-
turbed by footsteps and digging than the grave itself, and
leaves were scattered over a large space of ground.

The islet where they repose, is called Henry's island, and
the cluster to which it belongs bears the name of Under-
wood's Group.

A single canoe attempted to leave Malolo during the burial
of the dead, but was driven back with the loss of one of her
people. The natives came to the beach in large numbers,
taunting the boats with the cry of " Lagoini, lagoini papa
langa ;" in English, " Come on, come on, white men ;" but
the orders expressly forbade a landing, or any other demon-
stration which might abate their arrogant confidence.

About noon the schooner reached her former berth, and
shortly after the " Porpoise " hove in sight. When she an-
chored, Mr. Emmons boarded her, and communicated the
melancholy news to Captain Ringgold. Preparations were
now commenced in good earnest to punish the savages ; the
arms were got in good order, the parties duly organized, and

AND MIDSHIPMAN HENRY. IGl

by 10 A. M. next day the whole of the disposable force of the
brig and schooner, consisting of eighty men, landed at the
"west side of the island, while the vessels took commanding
positions off the reef. After landing, the men were formed in
three divisions, and took up their line of march, the whole
commanded by Captain Ringgold. On arriving at the princi-
pal town, they found it to be of a large size, well fortified with
strong posts, driven into the ground close together, and the
intervening spaces filled up with a kind of wicker-work, and
the whole surrounded by a deep ditch, filled with water.

When within a few yards of the entrance, which was a small
low gate, scarcely large enough to admit one person, the prin-
cipal chief came out, and made the following taunting speech :
*' Come on ; I and my people are ready for you ; Fejee men
are good to eat, but white men are better, and intend this
night to have some of you for supper. Fejee men like to eat
white men ; we are glad to see you ; yes, we are glad to see
you." He then rallied his men, and ordered them to fire at
our people from behind the fortifications.

Captain Ringgold now made a signal for two of the divisions,
which had been sent to destroy the yam-patches, and cut
down the cocoa-nut trees, to join him, which they did with
great alacrity. He then formed the whole in one line, and
marched up to the intrenchments, under a heavy shower of
spears and arms. He next directed several rockets to be set
off in hopes of firing the town, and thus compel the savages to
abandon their intrenchments ; but this did not produce the
desired effect, and he therefore opened his fire upon the forti-
fication. Now was seen what many of .those present had not
before believed, the expertness with which these people dodge
a shot at the flash of a gun ; still our men took plenty of time
in firing, and the number of killed and wounded of the enemy

162 MASSACRE OF LIEUTENANT UNDERWOOD

•was immense. Upwards of twenty were seen to fall at the
first volley. In this manner was the contest kept up until the
principal chief was shot dead, a circumstance, which, together
with the half-burned state. of the town — for the rockets even-
tually set a large hut on fire — spread a great panic among
them, and they fled through a gate, which was intentionally
left unattached, carrying their dead and wounded on their
backs. At this moment a volley of musketry might have
greatly increased the destruction of lives ; but as women and
children could be distinguished amid the throng of fugitives,
the order was given to cease firing, and they were allowed to
escape.

Our people now marched into the town, and threw upon
the flames whatever they found that might be valuable to
the enemy. This involved the destruction of the whole
wealth of the island, which had been centered here on ac-
count of its great strength. This fact serves to show that
the savages were not ignorant of the consequences that were
likely to follow their foul deed, and had made timely prepara-
tions for defending themselves.

Several things that had belonged to Mr. Underwood were
seen among the ruins. A little child, who seemed to have lost
its parents, and whom our people endeavored to avoid shooting
during the conflict, was burned to death in one of the houses.
The dead that the natives had been obliged to leave behind,
were all found shot through the head. Many lay beside a
mound which had been but recently raised for additional
security.

While Captain Ringgold and party were thus employed on
shore. Captain Wilkes and Messrs. Alden and Emmons were
not less active on the water. Scarcely had the action com-
menced with the town, when two large canoes were seen stand

AND MIDSHIPMAN PIENRY. 1G3

iiig over from Vita Leva. Immediately the signal to intercept
them was made, and Mr. Emmons reached them first, and
made signs to them to heave-to ; but they stood on their course
to Malolo. Upon this Mr. Emmons announced his intention
to destroy them. Several were killed at the first fire, and the
rest jumped overboard and made for the shore. Mr. Emmons
continued to fire at the fugitives until he fell in with Captain
Wilkes, who directed him to spare the lives of the survivors,
but make them prisoners. Lieutenant Emmons had already
rescued a little child, and now attempted to save its mother.
This woman had at first been taken for a man, and fired upon
from Captain Wilkes's boat, but when the error was dis-
covered they, ceased firing, and hastened to her rescue. In
her alarm, however, she mistook the design, and continually
dived to avoid the boat, so that they were obliged to abandon
her, and she swam towards Vita Leva, ten miles distant.
We heard afterwards that she had safely arrived there. The
other prisoners taken by the boats were the head-chief's wife,
two girls, each about sixteen years of age, and a boy about five
years old. After taking the prisoners to the brig, where they
were kindly treated by both officers and sailors, all the boats
proceeded to the leeward part of the island to destroy another
town. When they had almost reached the place, the shore-
party hailed, and informed them that five canoes had been
seen to put ofi" from the western-side of the island. Mr.
Emmons was forthwith dispatched after them, while the other
boats remained to destroy the town, which they speedily ac-
complished.

After a very long and fatiguing pull, Mr. Emmons overtook
the fugitives. They were at first some distance apart, but as
he approached them they closed their line, and stood ready for
an attack. Their numbers were partly concealed behind a

1G4 MASSACRE OF LIEUTENANT UNDERWOOD

breastwork of baskets, filled with roots, which they had thrown
up for the occasion. Mr. Emmons wished to pull to wind-
ward to avail himself of a light breeze, but he had only got a
few yards off when some of the canoes appeared disposed to
commence the attack, and executed a manoeuvre by which
they expected to get his boat on the reef when she might be
carried by boarding. But Mr. Emmons brought his blunder-
buss to bear upon the natives, and ordered them to change
their course, which, strange to say, they had the folly to do.
Being now where there was plenty of water. Lieutenant Em-
mons opened fire upon the canoes. Large numbers were
killed and wounded, and the rest leaped overboard. During
the pursuit which followed, several of the fugitives gained a
canoe which had drifted out from the shore, and put off to
seaward, passing over a reef upon which there was not sufii-
cient water for the boat to float. Three of the captured
canoes were cleared of their "lumber," and taken along-side
the " Porpoise." The fourth being badly stove, was left on
the reef until next morning, when she w^as also secured.

Subsequent investigation confirmed the opinion, that these
canoes had left the island with the express intention of cut-
ting off Mr. Emmons. Their known loss was twenty-seven
men ; but there is good reason to believe that it was much
greater. Our own party had the good fortune to escape with
a few slight wounds.

It was Captain Wilkes's intention to renew the attack
next day, (27th,) but early in the morning one of the women
who had been liberated the preceding day, came down to the
beach, and begged for mercy to the survivors, describing in
moving terms the misery to which they had been reduced.

Captain Wilkes told her to return to those who sent her,
and state that he would not listen to the mediation of women ;

AND MIDSHIPMAN HENRY. 165

but a little while after he dispatched two boj^s, who had been
captured by Mr. Emmons, to order all the people on the
island to assemble by noon on a certain hill, and receive our
terms. The prisoners were directed to add, that, if the order
was not obeyed, hostilities would be renewed. At 11 A. M.
the whole party of men who had been on shore the previous
day landed, and formed into a hallow-square, to await the ap-
proach of the natives ; but none appeared. Twelve o'clock
arrived, and they still kept away. At last they began to
appear, moving slowly on their hands and knees, and fiUing
the air with their wailings.

When yet a considerable distance off they halted, and sent
messengers to say that they were afraid to approach nearer ;
but the messenger was ordered to tell them that they must do
as they had been directed in the morning. On receiving thi?
answer, they resumed their wailings, and at the same time
moved towards the hill. Every now and then they would stop
and raising their faces from the ground send up a piteous cry.
In this way did they manage, until at last they reached the
spot where Captain Wilkes was standing, when they threw
themselves at his feet.

After a minute or two, one of their old men began in a tone
of the deepest humihty to supplicate forgiveness, and to promise
that the people of Malolo would never again kill white man.
He added, that they acknowledged themselves conquered and
that the island belonged to us ; that they had lost everything ;
that the two great chiefs of the island and all their best war-
riors had been killed ; all their provisions destroyed, and their
houses burned ; that they were now convinced that the white
men were better warriors than the Fejee men. During the
whole time he was speaking, all the others remained bent down
with their heads touching tlie ground.

166 FEJEE .SLANDS.

. They were asked many questions, and among others, what had
induced them to commit the murder. They admitted that Lieut.
Underwood and Mr. Henry had done nothing to offend them,
and that they had been killed without the slightest cause.

Captain Wilkes now told them that he would grant them
pardon, but they must supply the squadron with water and
provisions ; with which conditions they agreed to comply.

The next day they appeared on the beach and fulfilled their
agreement. This was according to their custom, that the
conquered should work for the victors. They acknowledged
their loss to be about one hundred persons ; we did not lose in
the combat, a single life, and only very few were wounded.
These wounds were inflicted with spears and arrows, for their
fire-arms were rendered harmless by being over-charged. It
is said to be their practice to put charges into them according
to the size of the person they intend to fire at ; they almost fill
the barrel with powder when they shoot at a large man.

Thus ended this affair, an awful and a severe lesson to the
savages, but not more so than they deserved. It must be re-
membered that the murderers were looked upon by their
own countrymen as a set of pirates. I think it would be a
blessing to the whole race if the United States or some other
civilized nation would conquer them into subjection and order.
It would at once put an end to their dissensions and barbari-
ties, and afford encouragement to commerce and safety to per-
son and property.

The moment Captain Hudson received intelligence of the
melancholy disaster, he directed the ship's colors to be half-
masted, and issued the following order :—

" Information having been received from the commander of
the expedition, of the death of Lieutenant Joseph A. Under-

FEJEE ISLANDS. 167

wood and Midshipman Wilkes Henry, on the 12th instant,
who were treacherously murdered by the natives of Malolo,
one of the Fejee Islands, the officers of the United States
ships '' Vincennes " and " Peacock " will Y/ear the usual
badge of mourning for thirty days, as a testimony of regard
for the memory of their departed brother officers, who have
been suddenly cut off from their sphere of usefulness in the
expedition, while arduously engaged in the performance of
their public duty.

(Signed) "William L. Hudson,

" Commanding U. S. Ship ' Peacock.'
" Fejee Islands,^^

On the 2d of August, the whale-ship " Triton," fifteen
months from the United States, arrived ; as also the schooner
-' Tyvity," with three thousand yams. The latter likewise
brought as passengers, the second-mate and cooper of the
American whale-ship " Shylock," which was lost on a reef*
off Turtle Island, a few weeks since. It appears from their
account that the loss of this fine ship is to be attributed to the
negligence of the man who had the " look-out " forward at
the time the accident occurred. They charge him of going to
sleep, and not knowing the danger the ship was in until she
had struck.

The captain and the first-mate have proceeded to Hobart
Town in an English brig. The second-mate has shipped on
board the " Triton," and is said to have behaved in the most
shameful manner, refusing to assist the surviving sufferers,

* The position of this reef was afterwards determined by the brig " Porpoise." It
lies in latitude 19° 4S' 00" south, and longitude 178° 35' 00" west. The reef is six-and-
a-half miles long, and has an illiptical form. Turtle Island is about nine miles in. cir-
cumference, and has a few inhabitants, whose manners and customs are similar to
(iiose of the Tonga people.

168 FEJEE ISLANDS.

and left tliem on the wreck, exposed to the cruelties of the
natives.

August Tth, the " Porpoise " came in and anchored. She
left Ovalau on the 4th instant. Captain Wilkes was there
in the " Flying Fish," and was to follow the brig in a few
days.

During the afternoon of the 8th, a meeting was held on
board the " Peacock," when Captain Hudson was called to
the chair, and Lieutenant R. E. Johnson appointed secretary.
The chair announced that the object of the meeting was to
obtain a joint expression of feeling in relation to the death of
Lieutenant Joseph A. Underwood and Midshipman Wilkes
Henry, who, on the 24th day of July last, were treacherously
killed by the natives of Malolo.

On motion, a committee, consisting of Lieut. Johnson, Dr.
J. C. Palmer, Mr. William Rich (botanist). Passed Midship-
man Blunt, and Midshipman Blair, were appointed to draft
resolutions befitting this melancholy occasion.

The committee retired, in obedience to their instructions ;
and after a short recess, the meeting was called to order
again, and the chairman of the committee reported the follow-
ing resolutions, which were unanimously adopted : —
' Resolved, That amid the toils and dangers which the
officers of this expedition have been called upon to encounter,
they could have incurred no deeper calamity than the untimely
death of their beloved coadjutors, Lieutenant Joseph A. Under-
wood and Midshipman Wilkes Henry.

Resolved, That the loss of these gentlemen is most deeply
mourned, not only on account of their personal worth, but
from our sincere interest in the expedition, which has been
deprived of two of its most efficient officers.

Resolved, That the energetic and persevering manner in

FEJEE ISLANDS. 169

which the lamented dead performed all duties, however
arduous, aftord an example worth}^ our emulation ; and that
the strongest terms of sympathy with their friends at home
are inadequate to the expression of our regret.

Resolved, That, as a mark of affection and respect for
our lost associates, we cause a monument, designed among
ourselves, to be erected tc their memory in the cemetery at
Mount Auburn.

Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions be transmitted
to the bereaved relatives of Lieutenant Underwood and Mid-
shipman Henry.

It was further resolved, that a committee of nine persons
be appointed to carry the foregoing resolutions into effect ;
and that this committee consist of the following gentlemen, to
wit : — Captain William L. Hudson, Lieut. James Alden,
Lieut. H. L. Case, Dr. J. C. Palmer, Mr. T. R. Peal, (orni-
thologist). Passed Midshipman S. F. Blunt, Purser Wm.
Speiden, Midshipman George W. Clark, Midshipman J. L.
Blair.

It was next moved and resolved, that the sum of two thou-
sand dollars be appropriated for the erection of the monument ;
and that the pursers of the expedition be authorized to charge
the said sum to the officers and scientific corps, in proportion
to the rate of their several salaries.

The subject of an inscription was referred to a future
meeting, and the committee were instructed to select a model
from the designs which they might hereafter receive.

The meeting then adjourned.

On the 9th of August, the " Flying Fish " arrived, and
Captain Wilkes rejoined the " Vincennes."

Next day, it being Sunday, the chaplain of the squadron
delivered a sermon on the death of Messrs. Underwood

i70 FEJEE ISLANDS.

and Henry. The following portions of it may be interest-
ing :—

Lieutenant Joseph A. Underwood, was born July 15th,
1811. He entered the Navy of the United States in 1829,
and since that time had been almost constantly employed in
active service. He was one of the officers earliest attached to
the expedition in which we are embarked, and had been nearly
four years connected with it, at the time of his decease. With
some of you, he encountered the dangers and hardships inci-
dent to a passage round the stormy Cape and of Noir Island ;
saw and endured w^ith manly exposure the more appalling
prospect that tried men's souls. For a year previous to his
death, with us who survive, he shared the risks in the ship, in
the boat, and on shore, peculiar to a passage among the reefs
and islets that thickly stud this southern sea. With health
unbroken, he sustained the blighting heat and piercing cold of
the torrid and the frigid zones, as we passed rapidly from
clime to clime. He bore unmoved, the arduous toils, priva-
tions, and perils of our southern cruise, when, amid the ice-
islands of the Polar Ocean, we threaded our devious and
often dangerous way. With us he visited these barbarous
islands, and had been repeatedly engaged in the arduous and
perilous duty in which he met his melancholy and untimely
fate. Our lamented friend had been married but a few weeks,
when he left his native land, and had completed his twenty-
ninth year, only two days previous to his leaving the ship for
the last time. While I recognize the charitable sentiment —
" Nought of the dead, but good," I am happy to assure you,
that in relation to our departed friends, it will be in perfect
accordance with that sentiment to say, " Nought of the dead
but truth." With the Roman orator, I can say, I come to
bury our fallen friends, not to praise them. And if a year's

FEJEE ISLANDS. 171

acquaintance can give me an opportunity to judge, I can tes-
tify to his amiability and worth. His deportment was distin-
guished by a studious regard to propriety and decorum, and in
his conversation and conduct, he respected the feehngs and
sentiments of those with whom he was associated. His man-
ners and address were those of an accomplished gentleman.
There was no affected distance or reserve, or any manifest
consciousness of superior understanding. His politeness was
not merely external, but that of the heart. In his intercourse
with men of every condition, his conduct was dictated by
benevolence and regulated by that great law of moral equity,
^' To do unto others as you would wish them do unto you," and
in all that intercourse his intentions were just, kind, generous
and noble. In forming his opinions he was independent — in
maintaining them he was firm. " Decision of character was
in-wrought in the very texture of his mind." He was afraid
of no man. When he had assumed a position, dictated by wis-
dom and prudence, he maintained it unawed by any opposition
which might be brought against him. His temperament was
ardent, but under discipline ; of that kindness and principle
which led him to respect the feelings and prejudices of others,
it had been chastened, and subdued. In the performance of
any duty, he was remarkable for untiring diligence, and un-
ceasing perseverance. In a highly creditable knowledge of his
profession he added various collateral attainments and polite
accomplishments. His acquaintance with pure mathematics, as
applicable to astronomy, navigation, and surveying, was known
to you all. He was famihar with several of the modern lan-
guages of Europe ; and who has not seen the chaste, beautiful
and faithful productions of his pencil, with which his portfolio
was enriched ? In regard to his intellectual character, he pos-
sessed a mind of the first order. His conceptions were clear,

172 FEJEE ISLANDS.

concise and vivid ; his judgment was remarkably correct ; he
reasoned with cahn dehberation, and examined a subject with
a prodigious grasp of mind in all extensive bearings. If it
embraced numerous and various particulars, he directed his
attention to each, and suspended his decision until he had ex-
amined them all.

Haying thus with a well-balanced mind looked through a
subject, he rarely had occasion to retrace his steps, or renounce
the conclusions to which he had arrived. A correct and
refined taste enabled him to see and appreciate whatever
was sublime, and beautiful in art or nature ; and his memory
retained with fidelity that rich variety of facts and sentiments
which his reading and observation had committed to its charge.
Such, my hearers, were some of the principal traits which dis-
tinguished the character of our lamented companion and friend.
With liis immediate relations I had not the happiness of being
acquainted ; but from all I can learn, he was a dutiful and
grateful son, a kind brother, and a faithful and affectionate
husband to the now widowed partner of his bosom.

I have thus briefly and imperfectly touched upon the cha-
racter of the lamented Underwood.

It only remains to say of the much-loved companion
of his untimely fate, that many of the traits which Under-
wood possessed, belonged to Henry, with a due reference
between them in age and experience in the service. The
loved and lost Henry — the cherished object of affection of
his widowed mother — was deservedly dear to us all. He
was a youth, manly beyond his years. He possessed in
an eminent degree, that propriety and dignity of demeanor
which commanded the respect of all his inferiors, and won and
retained the esteem and confidence of his superiors and asso-
ciates. He was distinguished for zeal and devotedness to the

FEJEE ISLANDS. 173

service, disinterestedness, fortitude and courage — a varied
combination of excellencies — which rendered him an honor to
his profession, and afforded high hopes of future distinction.
His memory is precious, and will not be forgotten ; and to you,
the junier officers of the squadron, so lately his youthful com-
panions and compeers, I would say, embalm his excellencies
of character by imitating them in your lives ; and if you have
not chosen a better maxim for your guidance through life,
take this from one who loves you all — " Dare always to do
right, and only dread to sin against God."

On the 11th of August, at an early hour, we bade adieu to
the Fejee Islands, and stood for Honolulu.

A74 FEJEE GROUP.

CHAPTER XIV.

FEJEE GROUP.

The Fejee Group is composed of one hundred and fifty-five
islands, of which number one hundred are uninhabitable, on
account of their sterility and want of water ; the remaining
number possess an excellent soil, and abound in mountain
streams — for the islands are of a mountainous character,
some of the peaks having an altitude of nearly five thousand
feet. The valleys are beautiful, and in some places well cul-
tivated. Yams and dry taro are the principal crops ; sugar-
cane grows spontaneously and of an excellent quality. The
natives do not make sugar, but manufacture large quantities
of molasses, and they use the leaf of the plant to cover the
roofs of their houses.

The principal towns are Rewa and Ambou, situated on the
east side of Vitilevu ; they contain about four thousand inhab-
itants each, an-d, as I have before observed, the latter is the
residence of King Tanoa, the most powerful chief in the group.

The climate, though warm, is pleasant and salubrious.
During our long stay at Ovalaou, we experienced very little
rainy weather. The mean temperature on board the ship was
76°. The population, according to the best information ob-
tainable at this time, is about one hundred and twenty thou-
sand. It is utterly impossible to have precise data on this
subject, for the white men residing in the group, have not had
access to all the islands, nor can we depend on native inform

FEJER GROUP. 175

ation as each chief is anxious to swell the number of his
fighting men. They are evidently a distinct race from the
rest of the Poljmesians. They are of a color almost black,
while their hair is frizzled or crisped, though not so much so as
the Africans ; the nose is broad and flat, and the eyes are jet
black, and have a wild, restless expression. They are person-
ally well-formed, muscular, and of good size. The men have
a custom of bedaubing their faces and bodies with a mixture of
lamp-black and cocoa-nut oil, which gives them a disgusting
appearance.

In character, they are cruel, deceitful, passionate, and
treacherous. We had repeated proofs of the latter in their
various attempts to surprise and cut off our boats, while em-
ployed in surveying duties. Another universal trait in their
character is covetousness, and is the incentive to stealing, and
many other odious acts. They are also great cannibals ; indeed,
they carry this revolting practice to a greater extent than any
other savages yet known to the civilized world. The bodies of
enemies slain in battle do not satisfy their appetite for it. Vio-
lence, stratagem, and sacrifices to the gods, are resorted to
for this horrible purpose. The chiefs are fond of giving en-
tertainments, and, on such occasions, human flesh, either
roasted or boiled, is handed round to the guest. When a new
spirit-house is built, several human beings are slaughtered,
and the bodies eaten by the Abati, or priest, and his friends.

The usual dress of the men consists of the maro, and of the
women, a sort of apron or girdle about eighteen inches in
width. Children of both sexes, until they arrive at the age of
puberty, go entirely naked. Women only are tattooed — the
operation is performed by persons of their own sex — and the
^arts thus ornamented are those concealed by the dress, and
sometimes the lips and fingers. The women firmly believe

176 FEJEE GROUP.

that to bo tattooed is a passport to the ^yorld of spirits, so much
so, that if a girl dies before the operation is performed, they
paint a semblance of it, by which means they expect to deceive
the gods.

It is the custom for grown persons of both sexes to powder
their hair with the soot collected from the smoke of the wood
called " tooi-tooi," or else with lime. In using either of these
substances they diffuse it plentifully in a large calabash of
w^ater, in which they dip their heads frequently. When they
have got on a sufficient quantity, they place themselves before
a mirror, and with a sort of comb and a stick about twelve
inches long, and pointed at both ends, they work the hair
up, until it has acquired the size and appearance of an im-
mense peruke. The natural color of their hair is black, but
by the use of lime and carbon and other coloring matter, they
make all the various shades between black and red ; many of
which colors, in numerous instances, decorate the same head.
Some are white in front, black behind, and red on the sides.
Those who have been deprived of their hair by nature or acci-
dent, supply the defect by wigs, which are so skillfully made as
scarcely to be distinguishable from the genuine natural growth.

They eat with their fingers ; and in serving up their food,
they always sweep off the mats or lay down new ones, placing
the victuals upon fresh leaves. They take their principal
meal in the evening, over which they spend much time. In
drinking, they throw their heads back, hold the vessel six or
eight inches from the lips, and allow the water to run into the
mouth, as if from a spout. The white residents speak highly
of the cooking, and say, they have seen at the feast given by
the chiefs from twenty to thirty different sorts of dishes.

Their language is copious and pleasing to the ear. The
missionaries are endeavoring; to reduce it to writing. It fur-

FEJEE GROUP. 171

nishes words for expressing every emotion of the mind. They
have also distinctive names for all the plants, trees, and other
subjects of the vegetable kingdom that grow under their
climate. The language affords various forms of salutation,
according to the rank of the parties. When the common
people approach a " duowa turanga," or a chief, they cry out,
" Duowa," to which the chief replies, " Wa." If the chief is
on his route, they turn out of his path, squat on their haunches,
and lower their clubs to the ground. Women make their
salutations in words different from those employed by the
men. They have also forms of expression equivalent to
our " No, sir," and "Yes, sir."

Their mode of sending messages is peculiar : — The messen-
ger is furnished with as many sticks or reeds as the message
contains separate subjects. The sticks are of various lengths,
in order to distinguish them from each other. When the
messenger arrives at his destination, he delivers the reeds
successively, and with each of them repeats the purport of the
message of which it is a memorial. The reply is conveyed
after the same manner.

Women are treated as inferior beings ; they are prohibited
from entering the spirit-houses or eating human flesh. The
girls of the lower classes of a tribe, are entirely at the disposal
of the chief, who may sell them to transient strangers, or do
anything else with them he pleases. Wives, besides taking
care of their children, and doing the work about the house,
are obhged to assist the men in cultivating the soil ; if they
misbehave they are tied to a tree and flogged.

At the age of fourteen, boys undergo the operation of cir-
cumcision, which is performed after the manner of the Jews.
Young girls allow their hair to grow in long, locks, and usually
decorate them with flowers of various colors. They are also

178 FEJEE GROUP.

fond of painting their noses and cheeks with vermilion.
After marriage the curls are cut off, and the hair is kept short
and frizzled.

Polygamy, in its greatest extent, is practised — some of the
chiefs having from ten to one hundred wives. The woman,
however, who is of the best family is always looked upon as
the principal wife — all the others being required to yield im-
plicit obedience to her. The daughters of chiefs are usually
betrothed early in life. If the betrothed husband dies before
the girl grows up, the next brother takes his place. The
parties may be frequently seen walking arm-in-arm after they
are engaged. Among the lower classes, however, marriages
are mere matters of bargain, and wives are looked upon as
property. The usual price is a musket or a whale's tooth.
If detected in infidehty, they may be killed by the husband,
or sold into slavery; but I was told that Fejee wives are
generally faithful. On the death of the husband, his favorite
wives are strangled and buried with him in a common grave,*

When a member of a family is dangerously ill, one or more
of the other members cut off his little finger as a sacrifice to
the gods for his recovery ; if the sick person is afflicted with a
lingering disease, his relatives kill him, that he may escape all

* We learn that among the Fejee Islanders, the chiefs have from twenty to a hundred
wives, according to their rank, and at the interment of a principal chief, the body is
laid in state upon a spacious lawn in the presence of an immense concourse of specta-
tors. The principal wife, after the utmost ingenuity of the natives has been exercised
in adorning her person, then walks out, and takes her seat near the body of her hus-
band, when a rope is passed round her neck, which eight or ten powerful men pull
with all their strength, until she is strangled and dies. Her body is then laid by that
of the chief This done, a second wife comes out and seats herself in the same place.
The process is repeated, and she also dies. A third and a fourth become voluntary
Kacrifices in the same manner, and all of them are then interred in a common grave —
one above, one below, and one on either side of the husband. The reasons assigned
for this are, that the spirit of the chief may not be lonely in its passage to the invisible
■world, and that by such'^n offering, its happiness may be at once secured.

Missionary Enterin-i^ei in fhe South Sea Islands.

FEJEE GROUP. 179

further misery. The httle finger is also often cut off on the
death of a great chief. The usual symbol of mourning for men
is short hair or beard — they seldom cut both. The women burn
themselves to blisters on the neck and breast ; this is done
by holding a piece of ignited tapa over the part to be burned.
Funerals among the higher classes are invariably followed by
feasts and ava- drinking.

The government is decidedly despotic. The will of the
chief is the law, and instant death would be dealt out to any
one found opposing it. The common people are looked upon
as slaves, and may be sold and destroyed by their masters
without remonstrance or appeal. The victims offered as sacri-
fices to the gods are generally selected from this class. They
are also slaughtered in great numbers when a great chief dies,
in respect to him.

Their religious creed* is in substance as follows : — That
there is one Great Spirit who sees and knows all things, and
who has the power of dispensing good and evil to mankind,
according to their merits ; that there are many other spirits
besides who have the same power, but not in so great a
degree ; that dogs, cats, guns, stones, trees, canoes, rivers —
in fact, everything — has a soul as well as man ; that certain
persons are inspired ; that there are no future rewards and
punishments, but that punishment for crime will be received
in this world only, and the future is one of perfect and eternal
happiness. They also firmly believe that omens are indica-
tions from the gods themselves to man, and spells and charms
are effective means of getting the gods to accord to the wishes
of the maledictor. The priests are called " Ambatis," and
exercise great influence over the lower classes. They are

• There are missionaries residing at Rewa and Somu Tomou, but as yet they have
made no converts.

180 FEJEE GROUP.

generally companions of the cliiefs, and are present at all the
feasts and ava-drinking. One of the principal duties of a
priest is to perform the marriage ceremony.

Their account of the origin of the races is this : — All man-
kind, say they, sprung from one father and mother. The
Fejee was first born, but acted •wickedly, and was black ; the
Tonga was next born — he acted better than the Fejee — was
whiter, and had some clothes given him ; white man came
last — he behaved well — was liked by the Great Spirit, who
made him white like himself, and gave him clothes and every-
thing he could desire.

During our stay at Ovalaou, I witnessed the performance of
two dances. On both occasions the men and women danced
together. They kept time to a monotonous chant, in which
they all occasionally joined ; their motions were stiff and in-
elegant. Both boys and girls are instructed in the dance by
masters and mistresses.

Their knowledge of medicine is limited to a few plants and
the bark of two or three kinds of trees. In surgery they are
more skillful. The most common surgical operation among
them is that of blood-letting, and is performed by making a
small incision with a shell or a knife in various parts of the
body for the relief of pain, inflamed tumors, &c., &c. By
the same means they open abscesses and ulcers. They also
cut off their toes to cure sores in the legs, elephantiasis, and
leprosy. In cases of hard tumors, they apply hot bread-fruit,
so as to produce a blister, and ultimately a purelent surface.
In cases of sprains they rub the part afflicted with the dry
hand, or vdth a mixture of oil and water. Of gun-shot wounds
they lay the wound open that they may be able to extract the
ball, should it still remain. Midwifery is a distinct profession,
exercised by females only, and they are said to be very skillful.

FEJEE GROUP. 181

Their arms consist of clubs, spears, bows and arrows.
There are two kinds of clubs — one kind about four feet long,
and five or six inches in circumference ; the other about
eighteen inches long, and fashioned like a drum-stick. The
latter sort are intended for throwing, and are said to be a very
formidable weapon. Every man is furnished with two of
these when he goes into battle ; some of them are beautifully
carved.

Their manufactures are mats, tapa, baskets, &c. This is
exclusively the work of vfomen. The tapa is made, as at the
other islands, from the Chinese mulberry, and by a similar
process. They make some that is very neatly and tastefully
printed. On several of the islands they also manufacture large
quantities of pottery ; they make it into pots, jugs and lamps,
and it appears to be of as good quality as that which is manufac-
tured for common use at home. The men have the reputation
of being the best native mechanics in the South Seas. Their
canoes are constructed with much judgment and ingenuity ; I
saw some that were upwards of one hundred feet in length, and
proportionally wide. The double-canoes are capable of carry-
ing from one hundred to two hundred men each.

As they are unacquainted with the use of money, they
barter commodities chiefly for muskets, powder, whales' teeth,
cotton cloths, hatchets, knives, scissors, razors, glass bottles,
and red paint. Among themselves, mats and tapa-cloth form
the principal currency and personal property. They wear the
whales' teeth around their necks as ornaments, which are
highly prized.

The foreign trade with these islands is much more limited
than it was some twenty years ago. Sandal-wood is now
exhausted, or only found in small quantities ; tortoise-shell is
so scarce as to be of small account, and these, with the smaller

182 FEJEE GROUP.

articles, such as clubs, spiears, mats, and shells, are mostly
picked up by the white residents on speculation and sent to
Sydney, New South Wales, from whence they are forwarded
to England, and sold as native curiosities. The merchant-
traders, therefore, are confined chiefly to the article of bech-
de-mar, which is still found in considerable quantities, and is
in great demand in the China market.

The general character of the Fejee Islanders may be
gathered from the preceding remarks. The dark side of the
picture presents them as unprincipled, cruel, rapacious, defi-
cient in courage as well as in human feelings, and indifferent to
the commission of crime. This melancholy catalogue of vices
arises from the disadvantages in point of religion, of govern-
ment, and the general structure of society, under which they
live. There is no doubt that under a better form of govern-
ment they would become quite a different people.

The resident missionaries represent them as being, in point
of natural abilities, superior to any of the other Polynesians.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 183

CHAPTER XV.

SANDWICH ISLANDS

September 30th. About noon tins day, we made the
Island of Oahco ; and by 5 P. M., came-to in the roads off
of the town of Honolulu. Soon after, we communicated with
the shore, and had the satisfaction of receiving letters from
our friends at home.

The appearance of Oahoo, when viewed from the roads, is
by no means inviting. The plain on which the town stands is
almost treeless, while the mountains to the eastward are a mass
of naked rock. These mountains are composed of basalt and
tufa ; and, doubtless, what is termed by the foreign residents
the " Devil's Punch Bowl," was once a volcanic crater, vomit-
ing forth the strong entrails of the nether world.

Early in the following morning, we hove-up the anchor, and
towed the ship to a berth in the harbor, where we found about
a dozen other vessels, mostly American, and engaged in the
wh^le-fishery. The channel is narrow and tortuous, but the
harbor is perfectly secure and convenient. Vessels of four
to five hundred tons can lay along-side any of the wharves,
and discharge or receive their cargoes. It is defended by a
fort mounting some twenty guns.

At 10 A. M., our CodsuI, P. A. Erinsmade, Esq., visited

* These islands were discovered by the celebrated Captain Cook, -who named them
after Lord Sandwich, the then Lord of the Admiralty. There are nine in number,
and bear the following native names :— Hawaii, Oahoo, Maui, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai,
Hamakua, Kakoolawe, and Niihau.

184 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

the ship, and in the course of the afternoon, many of the
foreign residents ; and among others the English and French
Consuls.

October 2d. To-day I visited the town. It is regularly
laid out in streets, and contains many houses built in the
European style. It also contains several churches • and two
hotels. The natives' houses are well adapted to the chmate,
and are pleasant, convenient residences — some cover a great
extent of ground ; there is a small yard before each, inclosed
by a wall built of adobes. The houses belonging to the better
classes have their floors covered with mats, and are furnished
with chairs, beds and curtains.

The king's palace stands facing the harbor, and has an air
of snugness and comfort rather than elegance. It is a single-
story building, constructed of wood, and painted white. Seve-
ral of the stores owned by foreign residents are large and
appeared to be doing good business ; indeed, Honolulu is the
New York of the group. The merchants of the other islands
come here to purchase their goods. The population is esti-
mated at 7,000.

The natives have healthy, athletic forms, and in complexion
are a shade darker than the Tahitians. They have made
much greater progress in civilization than any of the Poly-
nesian nations. They are well acquainted with weights and
measures, and the value which all articles ought to bear in
exchange with each other. Their currency is gold and silver.
The chiefs are well clothed in the European style ; but the
masses are not more than half-dressed, and some still wear
nothing but the maro. The apparel of the women consiste of
a long loose-gown, made of calico, and a fancy-colored silk
handkerchief, thrown over the neck and shoulders. Most of
the old people of both sexes have from one to three 'of theii

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 185

front teeth knocked out. This seems to have been an old
religious custom, and was considered as a propitiatory sacrifice
to the gods, to avert their anger.

Of the white residents the Americans are the most nume-
rous. Most of the foreign trade is in their hands, and several
are reputed to be quite w^ealthy. The town bears many evi-
dences of their enterprise. Their dwelling-houses and stores
are the largest and handsomest in the place. They have also
a neat chapel of their own, and support a weekly newspaper.

There is a regular market here, and all kinds of provisions
can be had as cheap as we get them at home. The beef
comes chiefly from the Island of Hawaii, and is fat and well-
flavored. Oranges, pine-apples, plaintains and bananas are
also abundant, and of an excellent quality.

When it became so dark that I could no longer see the town
to advantage, I repaired to the principal hotel, where I got a
very good supper. There is a billiard- table connected with this
establishment, w^hich I found well patronized by the foreign
residents and chiefs ; several of the latter were noble-looking
men, and spoke very good English. *-

On the 20th, two natives were hung at the fort, in the pre-
sence of a great concourse of people, for poisoning a woman,
wife to one of them. Their trial took place about a fortnight
before, and was conducted, we were told, in a very impartial
and dignified manner. The governor was the presiding judge,
and the king and high chiefs were present. The accused were
allowed to challenge a jury, which consisted of twelve of the
most intelligent and respectable natives. They were also
allowed to choose counsel. One of the criminals was a chief
of high rank.

October 27th. This morning I went to witness an exami-
nation of the native children. I found them assembled at the

186 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Rev. Mr. Bingham's church, to the number of TOO. The
examination lasted several hours, the exercises being spelling,
reading, -^'riting, arithmetic, singing, grammar and geograph}^ ;
and it is certainly speaking moderately to say, the evidences
of improvement exhibited on the occasion were very creditable
to both teachers and pupils. The Governor, and "Captains
Wilkes and Hudson made short addresses, which were listened
to with much attention. The scholars were then marched
through the town to the Rev. Mr. Smith's church, each school
bearing a banner, and the whole procession headed by the
young chiefs.

It was upon the whole one of the most interesting spectacles
I have witnessed for a long time, and spoke well for the mis-
sionaries. Besides the school just mentioned, there are three
others in Honolulu — one of which is under the superintendence
of the Catholic bishop.* It is the opinion of the missionaries,
and other foreign residents, that the native children are not
inferior in intellect, or in other respects, to white children
having equal advantages.

October 28tfe. Having visited every object worthy of notice
in the town of Honolulu, I determined to-day to ride out to the
Pali. Strangers visiting Oahoo, ought by all means to take
this drive — it is impossible to conceive a more interesting one.
After proceeding about two miles from the principal hotel
you enter a valley, through the centre of which winds a beauti-
ful stream, whose banks are lined with taro plantations,
meadows and gardens, and dotted with cottages, while the
sides on either hand are bounded with a range of hills, covered
to their summits with verdure. The eye cannot turn but to
banquet on some lovely or romantic object. Every cottage is

* Formerly the Protestant was the only religion tolerated by the government, but
now all creeds are tolerated, and the Catholics have numerous converts in Honolulu

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 187

a picture, and the industry and happiness of man seems tc co-
operate with the beneficence of the soil and climate. In no
part of the United States have I seen more agricultural
neatness and industry. All the stone fences, dividing one
field from -another, are kept in the highest order. As you ad-
vance you feel the air becoming more bracing, for the valley
rises with a gradual ascent from the sea to the Pali. The
bottom of the valley is more undulating, the hills grow higher
and steeper, and the vegetation more varied. After a ride
of about four miles through such country as has just been
described, you enter a grove of hibiscus and other tropical
trees. In a few minutes you come again into open space, and
after turning round a pile of rocks the Pali suddenly bursts
upon your view, filling you with wonder and astonishment.
On either hand immense masses of volcanic rock rise to the
perpendicular height of between six and seven hundred feet ;
while looking down beneath the fearful precipice, you behold
in one view plantations, trees, villages, meadows filled with
cattle grazing, the town of Honolulu, with its harbor and
shipping, and the blue bosom of the Pacific. Painters, poets,
and romance-writers would find here ample materials for con-
templation and study. My guide, who was an elderly man,
pointed out the place where two stone idols stood, before the
coming of the missionaries to the islands, to which, he said,
every native who intended to descend the precipice made an
ofiering of tapa and flowers, in order to render them propitious
to his descent. He also showed me the identical spot where
the last king of Oahoo and his warriors were driven down
headlong and dashed to pieces, by Tamahamaha I.,* and his

* In viewing Tamahamaha I., sayg Mr. Turnbull, my imagination suggested to
me, that I beheld in its firs* progress one of those extraordinary natures -which, un-
der other circumstances of fortune and situation, would have ripened into the future

188 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

victorious army. The precipice is at least tlirfee times the
height of Dover cUffs, and it is really fearful and dizzy to cast
one's eyes over the horrid boundaries, —

" The murmuring surge
That on the unnumbered idle pebbles chafe,
Can scarce be heard so high."

On my way back I met grea,t numbers of native women, who
were riding out on horseback for pleasure. They were evi-
dently in high spirits, for such chattering and giggling I have
seldom heard. They fairly made the hills and valleys ring
again. They also appeared to be very fond of showing off their
horsemanship, and the mettle of their steeds. Running and
leaping over every fence and wall that could be seen on their
path was the order of the day. Indeed, horse-riding* is a
favorite amusement of the Honoluluians, and there is not a
Saturday afternoon in the year which is not devoted to it, and
the more break-neck and wild the animal is the better.

On entering the town my horse took fright at the sight
of a group of urchins who were playing in the street, and, after
running about half a mile, threw me, and bruised my side to
such a degree that I was immediately obliged to go on board
the ship, and have it attended to. But for this mishap I

hero, and caused the world to resound with his feats of enterprise. What other was
Philip of Macedon, as pictured by the Grecian historians, a man who overcame every
disadvantage, and extended the narrow sovereignty of Macedon into the universal
monarchy of Greece, and under his son, of the then known world. He is both a
warrior and a statesman, and his subjects have already made considerable progress
in civilization, but are held in the most abject submission, as Tamahamaha is in-
flexible in punishing all oftences which seem to counteract his authority. His palace
is built alter the European style, of brick and glazed windows, and defended by a
battery of ten guns. He has European and American artificers about him of almost
every description. Indeed, his own subjects, from their intercourse with Europeans,
have acquired a great knowledge of several of the mechanical arts, and have thus
enabled him to increase his navy— a favorite object with ffim.
* The females ride like the men.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 180

should be tempted to look upon this day as one of the happiest
I have enjoyed during my earthly pilgrimage.

On the 2d of December the "Peacock" and "Flying
Fish" sailed for King's Mill Group, thence to Columbia River.

December 4th. At 1.40 P. M. we took our departure for
Hawaii — P. A. Brinsmade, Esq., and Dr. Judd, physician to
the mission, taking passage with us.

During our stay at Oahoo, much was accomplished in the
way of science. The artists of the expedition also were con-
tinually employed, and took many views of scenery, and por-
traits of the chiefs and common people. The harbor of Pearl
River, was, for the first time, accurately surveyed, and found
to be commodious and convenient for shipping, with twenty-
three feet of water over the bar, off its entrance. The road-
stead and harbor of Hanolulu were also thoroughly sounded
out. The Salt Lake of Ewa* which heretofore was supposed
to be connected with the sea, and to be influenced by the tides,
was examined, and the salt was found to be a mineral produc-
tion ; salt was found nearly two hundred feet above the sur-
face of the lake. This examination also settled the question
with regard to its depth. Instead of being fathomless, its
depth was no where found to be more than two feet.

Meteorological and magnetical observations were daily
taken, both on board the ship and at the observatory, in short,
nothing was neglected that could add to the natural history of
the island.

December 5th. At an early hour this morning we came
in sight of the mountains of Hawaii. Their immense

* This is a small circular lake situated about seven miles to the west of Honolulu,
so impregnated with salt, that between five and six hundred barrels of fine hard chrys-
talized salt are taken out annually. It belongs to the king, and is a source of consid-
erable revenue — large quantities of the article being sold to the Hudson's Bay Company,
ani used for curing salmon and hides.

190 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

height excited our astonishment and wonder ; the summits
rose far above the highest clouds, and for several thousand
feet down were covered with snow, which, when the sun rose,
glistened and sparkled with a degree of brilliancy that almost
blinded the beholder. This mighty scene recalled the follow-
ing effusion to which Moore was excited on a similar occasion :

" No, never shall I lose tlie trace
Of what I've felt in this bright place ;
And should my spirit's hope grow weak,
Should I, 0 God ! e'er doubt thy power,
This mighty scene again I'll seek,
At this same calm and glooming hour,
And here at the sublimest shrine
That nature ever reared to thee,
Re-kindle all that hope divine
And feel my immortality !"

At sunset the natives* assembled on the forecastle, and at
our request gave us a specimen of their wrestling. Forming
a ring, one of them stepped in the centre with his arms ex-
tended ; he was immediately approached by another from the
opposite side, not in the usual step, but by crossing the legs
alternately; he then brought both feet together, and com-
menced making a variety of motions with his hands. After
this, which lasted about five minutes, each seized the other by
the wrist and neck, and by a. variety of movements made by
the arms and feet, continued to struggle until one of the
parties was thrown.

During the night, many meteors were observed. It is
impossible for language to paint the glories of the firmament
in clear moonlight nights among these islands. They surpass
any I have ever witnessed in other parts of the globe.

• While at Oahoo, numbers of these people were shipped on board the different
vessels of the squadron, for the purpose of employing them in the boats.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 191

December 9th. At 3.30 P. M., we reached the harbor of
Waiakea, or Byron's Bay, and anchored in three and a half
fathoms of water. The entrance into this bay is so easy that
a pilot is altogether unnecessary, for you have only to keep
the western shore aboard until the reef, which makes off the
mouth of the bay, is passed, and then haul up for Cocoa-nut
Island, oif which is the best holding-ground.

We had no sooner let-go the anchor, than the king's agent
came on board to welcome us to the island, and to make Cap-
tain Wilkes a present of some mullet, which had just been
caught in the king's fish-pond.* He was neatly and respect-
ably dressed in the European style, and from having been
brought up in Mr. Bingham's family spoke our language per-
fectly well.

* The Hawaiians take great pains to have fine fish. They take them from the sea
•when very small, and put them into ponds of salt water, where they remain several
months ; thence they are carried into brackish water, and finally are introduced into
ponds of fresh water, where they are carefully attended.

1^2 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

CHAPTER XVI.

HAWAII.

The aspect of this part of the island of Hawaii is one of
surpassing beauty. The country gradually declines from the
base of the mountain Mouna Loa, some thirty miles inland,
to the coast, -where it boldly and precipitately terminates.
The soil appears to be of the best quality, not overgrown with
forests and thickets, as is generally the case with those islands
we have heretofore visited, but extending out in a kind of
meadow-patches, enlivened by numerous streams, and beauti-
fully diversified with clusters of bread-fruit trees, so as to give
the whole a picturesque and at the same time an easy culti-
vated prospect. In entering the bay, the neatly-thatched huts
of the natives, situated among groups of venerable bread-fruit
and other trees, become more numerous, and on arriving at the
anchorage the scene is perfect ; for here, in addition to the
beauties nature has so bountifully bestowed on the surrounding
country, the taste and art of advancing civilization can be seen.

The missionary families established here have built them-
selves houses in the European style. There are also one or
two stores, a neat chapel, and a mill or two for grinding cane,
owned by a China man.

December 10th. This morning we sent the scientific in-
struments to the Observatory. This building is situated on
the south-eastern side of the bay ; it is thirty feet long, by
fifteen wide, and was, I am informed, erected expressly for

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 193

our use by an order from the king. There were numbers of
persons still employed in leveling off the ground around it,
and in platting down the grass with which it is covered.

Dec. 11th and 12th. These- two days have been spent in
making preparations for the excursion to the top of Mauna Loa.

On the 14th, Captain Wilkes and party left for Manua
Loa. The expedition set out from the Observatory, and, be-
sides Captain W., consisted of Messrs. Budd, Eld, Pickering,
Judd, Brinsmade, Brackenbridge, and Elliott, Sprg. Stearns,
twelve of the crew, and one hundred and fifty natives, or kana-
kas. It was Captain Wilkes's iiHention to have started at
a much earlier hour, but in this he was disappointed by a cir-
cumstance which could not be foreseen. No sooner was the
order to march given than thirty of the natives laid down their
loads and declared they were sick, and could not go the
excursion. Others were engaged to take their place, but not
without much persuasion and great additional expense. They
positively refused to go unless they received double the pay
which had been offered those whom they were to relieve — that
is, eight dollars.

The party will spend one night in the vicinity of Kilauei,
which will be on their way. On reaching the summit of
Mauna Loa, they will immediately go on erecting the tents.
This done, the natives are to be discharged, with orders to re-
turn again when their services are needed. As soon as the
instruments are up, Captain Wilkes and Messrs. Budd and
Eld will proceed with the observations, and continue them
until a sufficient number are obtained to form the data from
which the proper results are to be obtained. Such are the
objects of this enterprise, and we do most sincerely wish it all
the success imaginable. No observations, we believe, have as
yet been made by any one at so great an altitude with instru-

19i SANDWICH ISLANDS.

ments like those "vvith which the party are provided ; and as
all of them would be highly interesting and useful, it would
give us particular pleasure to have the honor of making them
secured to our OAvn country.

There are some, however, who are of the opinion that the
whole affair will fall through, from the fact of the natives not
being able to stand cold, which is said, after an elevation of
ten or twelve thousand feet, to be intense.

December 15th. To-day I visited the shore, in company
with a brother oflBcer. We landed on the western side of the
bay. A clump of cocoa-nut trees was standing within a few
yards of the water's edge. Passing this we came to two
avenues, of about half a mile in length, lined on either side
with cane-plantations, taro-patches, and interspersed with
trees loaded with flowers of the most gay and beautiful colors.
One of the avenues, we were told, was entirely the work of
those females who had violated the seventh commandment,
and, like that at Tahiti, was distinguished by the name of
'^ Broom-rood." After making a short call on one of the
missionary gentlemen, who resides in a very neat and com-
fortable house situated at the termination of the road just
mentioned, we repaired to Mr. Pittman's. This gentleman is
a native of Boston, and the principal merchant in Hilo. While
we were sitting in his store, several natives came in, and
made a number of purchases, which, we remarked, consisted
chiefly of cotton-stuffs. We next set out to visit a brother-
officer and messmate, who had taken up his residence on shore
on account of ill-health. Pursuing a path which lay through
fields overgrown with bushes, v/e soon arrived at the banks
of Waikea. This river rises among the mountains in the in-
terior, and previous to the introduction of Christianity was
regarded by the natives as an object of great veneration.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 195

The remains of many of the temples that were dedicated to
its god are still to be seen on its banks. The bed over -which
it flows is composed of black volcanic rock, and in some places
is full of fissures and chasms. A little to the right of the
spot where we struck it, there are two very beautiful cascades.
The Waikea was also distinguished in olden times for the great
number of fairs that were held on its banks. We had scarcely
crossed this beautiful stream when we reached the house which
our friend occupied. It is the property of Mr. Pittman's son,
and, besides being shaded by magnificent trees, it commands a
noble view of the harbor. After spending a few hours with our
friend, we set out to return on board. Many native houses were
scattered along our path, some of which we entered. They
were not so large nor so cleanly as those we had seen at Oahoo.

We reached the ship just as the eight o'clock gun was fired.

December 17th, During these twenty-four hours the air
has been uncommonly keen, on account of the wind blowing
from the westward. This wind blows down the mountains,
and is more dreaded by the natives than any other. Both
day and night, during its continuance, they keep large fires
burning in their houses, and gather round them as closely as
they can. It is, in fact, to them, what the northeast wind is
to us in the winter season.

December 18th. Several lett-ers have been received to-day
from the Mouna Loa party, and among others, one from Cap-
tain Wilkes, addressed to the first Lieutenant, in which, he
directs that fifty of the crew should be sent to him. One of the
letters stated that about thirty of the natives had given out.

The swell is running very heavy. We have stood it out, how-
ever, thus far, with only one anchor and eighty fathoms cable.

December 19th. At early dawn, Lieut. Alden and Mr. San-
ford left here with the fifty -men sent for by Captain Wilkes.

198 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

It is justice due to those men to state, that not one cf them
waited to be ordered ; they came forward and volunteered
their services the moment they learned they were needed.
During the night the reflection from the Volcano Kilauea,
was uncommonly vivid, insomuch that we concluded some
new eruption had taken ^lace.

"December 21st. In the afternoon we hauled the seine, and
in two hauls captured fish enough to supply every mess in the
ship for several days to come. Both hauls were made near
the beach, and the last one in the presence of a great number
of the Kanakas, and it was amusing to see the astonishment
which they expressed.

They have seines of their own, but they are of such misera-
ble construction as to be of very little use. There are many
varieties of fish found in the bays of Hawaii ; but the mullet
is considered superior to all others in point of flavor.

December 22d. More letters have been received from the
Mauna Loa party, and they all state, that the natives are
giving out hourly ; one cause of complaint is, that the loads
which they are required to carry, are too heavy, w^hich, no
doubt, is too true ; we should think that fifty pounds was
altogether too much for any one man to carry, especially on
so long a journey, and one beset wdth so many natural diflScul-
ties. It would have been better, we believe, to have had the
loads lighter, and ei^ployed more people.

December 23d. /To-day the Headman of Hilo, and family,
and the King's agent and his lady, dined in the ward-room.
The former is a large man with European features and of dig-
nified manners. He also bears the reputation of being a man
of great energy of character. The females were neatly dressed
after the European fashion, and, considering their oppor-
tunities, conducted themselves remarkably well.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. Wi

In the evening, Mr. Williamson, gunner, reported that he
saw on shore, Mr. Sanford and a man named McDonald, who
was so lame as scarce to be able to walk.

December 24th. This morning Mr. Sanford and McDonald
came on board. Mr. Sanford stated that he was obliged to
return on account of his suffering from the asthma, after lea-^-
ing the volcano. In the evening Mr. Elliott arrived with
orders to the first Lieutenant, from Captain Wilkes, to keep
up a constant communication between the ship and the moun-
tain. Mr. Elliott reports that he left the party about fifteen
miles, or two days' walk, from the top of the mountain ;
that the ascent thus far had been difficult and painful, and
that one of the crew named Longly (an excellent man) was
found missing. He also tells us that they had suffered a
great deal from cold, and want of provisions and water ; the
latter article being so scarce, that upwards of two dollars had
been paid for a gallon of it.

In the course of the afternoon, two white men came on
board to say to the Purser, that they had been dispatched by
Captain Wilkes to tell him to send two'hundred natives up the
mountain with wood. These men report that Captain Wilkes,
and about half a dozen others had reached the summit.

December 26th. At an early hour, one hundred and thirty
natives left town with wood and water, for the use of the
party on Mauna Loa. The Headman of Hilo went with
them, and will hereafter stay at what is termed the half-way
house, and superintend the natives, who are to be constantly
kept carrying wood and water up to Mr. Alden's tent.

December 2Tth. We are gratified to learn that Longly
has been found. The poor fellow was laying under a rock
speechless, and already in a state of delirium preceding a final
dissolution ; but he is now doing well.

'200 VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO.

CHAPTER XVII.

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO ARRIVAL AT MAUI— -DE-

SCRIPTION OF LAHAINA VISIT FROM THE KING.

On the morning of tlie 24th of January, Messrs. M ,

H , and myself, apphed for permission to visit Mount

Kilauea. As the permission was granted, we set about making
the necessary arrangements for the tour. We directed our
steward to put up provisions for six days, and in the afternoon
went on shore, and engaged horses from the Headman of Hilo
to take us up to the crater. We also engaged a white man,
named Smith, to act as guide to the party, and several natives,
who were to carry our baggage.

We told Smith we should be ready to set out the next day,
and should expect him and the natives to meet us at an early
hour at the Observatory, that being the starting-point. Ac-
cordingly, the following morning, we repaired to the Observa-
tory, where we found Smith and the natives ; and by six
o'clock, all preparations being made, we took our departure.
Pursuing a westerly course, we soon came to the River Wikuea,
which we crossed near the Headman's house. In a few
minutes after, we reached the road which leads to the volcano.
We had only traveled a short distance on this road, when we
entered a track of country which was entirely covered with
fern, and but thinly inhabited. It was here that I took the
resolution to return my horse tc the Headman and take to

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO. 201

walking. Smith informed me that there were but few horses
on the island, and those have been brought over from Oahoo,
and are generally old and broken down.

At 1 o'clock it commenced to rain, but it turned out to
be only a shower. The road now laid through a dense forest,
in which we observed growing in great abundance the Teutui-
tree, from the nut of which the natives extract an excellent
oil. On emerging from this wood, we found ourselves in a
country similar to that we passed over before. About 4
o'clock we reached the house where Captain Wilkes and
party spent their second night while on their way to the sum-
mit of Mouna LDa. It is a large native building, standing
a few hundred yards from the road, with some cultivated
land around it. We now came to a region of country entirely
composed of lava and producing no other vegetation than what
grcAV in the crevices. This lava was of a dark brown color
and very hard, and with a surface ruffled like that of the sea
at the first springing up of a breeze. It was a hrghly interest-
ing scene both for the geologist and mineralogist. After a
walk of between three and four miles over this volcanic re-
gion, we passed on our left a cluster of cottages, surrounded
apparently by a rich soil, and shortly after reached what is
called the " half-way house,'' where we proposed to spend the
night. Upon entering, the inmates immediately retired to
one of the out-houses, thus giving us possession of the en-
tire building. It appeared to be newly erected and better con-
structed than any building we had seen on the way. In the
centre of the floor was a cheerful fire, the sight of which
we hailed with joy, for we were both wet and cold. Around
its gladsome blaze we seated ourselves, enjoyed its genial
warmth, dried our clothing, and then proceeded to par-
take our repast. When the repast was over we once movp

202 VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO.

gathered around the fire, and, after comfortably -warming our-
selves, retired for the night.

January 26th. At 8 o'clock ttc resumed our journey. It
was a bright sunny morning, and the neighboring woods were
enlivened with songsters of various colors and species. Few
birds are to be seen along the shore, but in the interior of the
island they are numerous, and the notes of three or four kinds
are exceedingly sweet.

Between 11 and 12 we reached the two shanties situated
about eight miles from the volcano. Here we halted for the
baggage men to come up. Scarcely had we got seated when
a girl about sixteen years of age, entered, and took a seat by
us. Upon inquiry she informed us that she belonged to the
opposite side of the island and was going to visit some of her
friends who were residing near Hilo. She was evidently one
of the lower class, yet her manners were pleasing and even
graceful. Perceiving she was without provisions, we offered
her some of our own, but she declined the offer, and shortly
after rose up and proceeded on her journey.

The scantiness of vegetation, the presence of disrupted
volcanic masses, and the appearance of columns of steam is-
suing from the rents intersecting the ground over which we
were passsing, convinced us that we must be near the crater
Kilauea.

At length, about 4 o'clock, we came in sight of the mo-
narch of all volcanoes — but the light of day, robbed it of much
of its splendor ; still the eye of man never beheld a more
sublime and terrific scene. Before us was a cavity between
six and seven miles in circumference and upwards of a thou-
sand feet in depth ; within this were to be seen lakes of varied
size and form, filled with burning matter, and emitting columns
of flame and vapor.

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO. 203

It is remarkable that this crater should present an external
aspect so entirely dissimilar to that of Etna and Vesuvius, or
any of the volcanoes of South America. Those are characte-
rized by an elevated cone, out of which are ejected igneous
rocks and ashes. Kilauea, on the contrary, is an immense
depression in the midst of a vast plain with nothing to warn
you of a near approach but the signs which I have before
spoken of.

We now directed our course toward the cluster of shantie?
erected on the brim of the crater by Captain Wilkes's party
which we soon reached, and found one occupied by Dr. Pick-
ering, who came round by the sea-shore. The remaining
shanties were in the possession of about fifty natives, w^ho had
come from a town near the coast to take away a large canoe
which they had made in the neighboring wood, some time pre-
vious.

After supper we proceeded in company with Dr. Pickering
to a place about half a mile to the eastward of the shanties
to obtain a view of a small crater which was represented to
be unusually active. We could not possibly have selected a
more eligible position. We stood on a pile of rocks which
commanded a bird's-eye view of the fiery lake. It was
several thousand feet in circumference, and nearly round in
form. The color of its burning contents was that of a cherry-
red or deep crimson, and it w^as in a state of terrific ebullition.
Sometimes the fiery fluid was ejected many feet into the air,
at other times it was seen to overflow the edges on the circumja-
cent lava, for many yards distant. We continued to gaze upon
the scene about an hour, and then returned to our lodgings,
where w^e soon had opporturnity of observing another phenome-
non of a character not less grand and splendid. We were re-
clining on our mats, with our eyes directed towards the largest

204 SANEWICH ISLANDS.

of the lakes, when a portion of the bank forming one of its
sides, was seen to give way and fall into the liquid lava beneath
with a frightful crash. The whole surface was in the most vio-
lent agitation ; billows were formed as high apparenth- as any
we had ever seen on the ocean, and dashed against the side of
the crater with such violence as to throw the fiery spray sixty
or seventy feet high. The sight of this spectacle alone would
have repaid us for the trouble of coming thus far. When the
surface of the fiery stream became quiescent again, we wrapped
ourselves in our blankets and sought repose.

When breakfast was over, we proceeded to visit the bottom
of the crater. After a brief walk in the direction of the Sul-
phur Springs, we turned to the left, and suddenl}'' commenced
descending by a steep and rugged path ; columns of vapors
smelling strongly of sulphur were issuing from crevices and
pits lining either side of the road. We estimated some of
the latter to be upwards of two hundred feet in depth. After
a descent of about one quarter of a mile, we passed on our
right a crater which bore unmistakable signs of having long
since become extinct ; it was everywhere covered with shrub-
bery, and trees of considerable dimensions. Another walk of
about fifteen minutes brought us to what is called the " Ledge."
It was not until then that we formed an adequate idea of the
magnitude and sublimity of this wonderful crater. On which-
soever side we cast our eyes, we beheld a wall of solid lava
of a thousand feet, or more, in altitude, and from six to seven
miles in circumference. This ledge surrounds the crater ;
thus forming a kind of natural gallery several hundred yards
in width. The surface is but little broken, and presents a
uniform appearance, being of a dark brown or iron color.

At length we reached the bottom. The path leading to
this was also very abrupt and dangerous ; we were in danger

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO. 205

every moment of being killed by the falling of fragments of
rocks, or of being precipitated down the fathomless pits. The
descent did not exceed four hundred yards, but we were up-
wards of twenty minutes in accomplishing it.

Dr. Pickering and myself remained at the bottom of the
crater upw^ards of an hour. It varies in its character much ; in
some places the surface is so hot as to be painful to the feet,
and the gurgling sound of the liquid lava beneath warned us
that we were treading on dangerous ground ; in others it was
broken and twisted into every imaginable shape ; in others it
was thrown up in the wildest confusion, resulting, jio doubt,
from the sudden cooling and contracting of the lava ; in
another place there were lakes of fire and smoke, and in
others again it presented a smooth glassy-like surface, and &o
fragile as to frequently break through, and precipita^e us
several feet before we gained a sure footing. . I received several
falls, and bruised my hands and knees dreadfully.

We approached within a few yards of the largest of the
lakes. It is situated to the northeast, and ranges in a direction
nearly east and west, and we estimated its circumference at up-
w^ards of three-quarters of a mile, it being oval in shape ; at the
east end the lava flowed in gentle waves — at the west it w^as in
a much higher state of action — it was there boiling and thrown
up into the air to the height of hundreds of feet, and then de-
scending again in showers of spray. The heat was so intense
as to burn our hands and faces many yards distant, and the
glare so strong as to be painful to the eyes. Thick black
columns of smoke rose from the centre. The v/ind roared like
thunder, as it rushed by us to fill the vacuum produced by
the intense heat, while at intervals the bank on which we
stood, cracked and shook in the most frightful manner.
The idea of falling into some of these fissures was by no

20G SANDWICH ISLANDS.

means agreeable, and really, I, for one, felt very much re-
lieved when we turned our eyes from the scene to retrace
our steps.

On our regaining the ledge, we fell in with Mr. H., who
had gone to collect some specimens of what is called Pole's
hair. He succeeded, and beautiful specimens they were.
There seems to be some doubt as to the manner this is pro-
duced. My opiinion is, that it is formed simply by the sweep-
ing of the wind over the surface of the lava while in a liquid
state. It is to be found all over the ledge, and on the bushes
growing around the brim of the crater ; it very much resembles
tufts of fine flax. On the leeward side of the crater, Mr. H.
found it so abundant that the ground in places appeared as if
covered with cobwebs.

Pele, according to the mythology of the natives, is the
goddess of Kilauea, and it is believed that many of them still
worship her in secret. It is said that they never approached
it previous to the introduction of Christianity, without the
greatest fear and veneration, and then only to deliver their
offering by casting it into the burning lake.

When about half way back we met Mr. Lyman, one of the
resident missionaries, and Mr. Elliott, our chaplain. At 3
P. M. we reached our lodgings, and, as might be expected,
were hungry, thirsty, and very much fatigued. After dinner
I accompanied Mr. H. to the Sulphur Banks to procure some
specimens, but in this we were disappointed, as we saw none
that were worth the trouble of preserving. There were some
forming, however, which promised to be very fine. The edges
of several of the crevices from which the gases issued that
produced the sulphur, were lining mth crystals of the most
beautiful shape and brilliancy. We estimated the length of
these banks to be two hundred yards, and their height from

VISIT TO THE dfeEAT VOLCANO. 207

ten to thirty feet. Many caverns and chasms were observable
in their vicinity.

The ensuing night harmonized well with the glorious scenes
witnessed during the day : —

" As -when the moon, refulgent lamp of night.
O'er heayen's clear azure spreads her sacred light,
When not a breath disturbs the deep serene,
And not a cloud o'ercasts the solemn scene :
Around her throne the vivid planets roll,
And stars unnumber'd gild the glowing pole ;
O'er the dark trees a yellower verdure shed.
And tip with silver every mountain's head."

January 28th. At an early hour I bade adieu to Kilauea,
and set out to return to Hilo, taking the route by which Dr.
Pickering had ascended. After a walk of about five miles
I overtook the party of Kanakas whom we found at the vol-
cano on the evening of our arrival. They were compelled to
bear the canoe on their shoulders, as the road was too steep
and rugged to allow the use of rollers. At 11 o'clock I came
in sight of Mount Popii, and by noon reached the summit,
from which I had a view of the crater on the western side. It
appears very ancient, as everywhere it is covered with trees
and shrubbery. It resembles a funnel in shape, and I estimated
its depth to be four hundred feet.

Leavmg Mount Popii, I turned off to a path divergmg to
the left, which soon brought me to another crater. The
bottom of this was overflowed with fresh lava ; but it did not
materially differ from the one above mentioned. This lava
had doubtless run in during the recent eruption, and worked
its way from the crater Kilauea by some subterranean passage ;
its color was nearly that of clay, and the surface appeared
highly glazed — the aperture through which it run in may still

208 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

be seen. It bore from where I was standing about northwest,
is several feet in circumference, about fifty j^ards from the top
of the crater, and one hundred yards from the bottom.

Pursuing the same path I next came to the bed of lava,
which owes its origin to the same eruption as that just alluded
to ; this presented the most singular spectacle. Many of the
trees with which the whole country was formerly covered are
still standing, overlooking the scene of desolation. The lava
was in that state which it generally assumes after it com-
mences to cool. Throughout its whole length and breadth it
was split and broken into pieces of various shapes and sizes ;
gases were escaping from several of the rents which smelt
strongly of sulphur, insomuch that I became aware of their
existence an hour or two previous to my reaching them. It was
from, these fissures that the liquid mass made its appearance.
One of them is nearly three feet in width, another two feet,
and a third eighteen inches. From the summit of Mount
Popii a fine view of the stream may be obtained. It is about
three miles long, and from three to five hundred yards wide.
The appearance of the surface is uniform, being of a color
nearly black, and full of glittering crystals. The average
height above the adjacent ground is four feet. No one can
see all this, and yet question the theory of the igneous
fluidity of the centre of our globe. All combustible causes
that we are aquainted with are totally inadequate to produce
such an effect.

It was my intention to have visited another crater, which
I was told to be still larger than any I had seen, except that
of Kilauea ; but having missed the path leading to it, and it
being also near sunset, I deemed it best to endeavor to reach
a house ^bout two miles off, where Smith said I would find
good lodgings, and which I succeeded in reaching about dusk.

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO. 20D

Smith was right ; we had excellent accommodations, and our
sleep was sweet and refreshing.

January 29th. The landscape was still glittering with the
dews of night when I resumed my journey. The morning is
the proper time to travel here, as the air is then cool and
delicious. After a short walk I reached a village, containing
between twenty and thirty houses. As I passed through,
many of the inhabitants came out of their dwellings to inquire
where I was going, and from whence I came. The Hawaiians
are naturally a very curious and inquisitive people. The
land in the vicinity of this village appeared fertile, and was
in a high state of cultivation. Among other productions, I
observed the coffee-tree and sugar-cane. The average height
of full-grown coffee trees is about nine feet ; they arrive at
their full growth in four or five years, and continue to bear
from ten to fifteen years. The coffee-blossom is a beautiful
and highly fragrant little white flower, and the berry, when
fully ripe, is of a pale red color. I came next to a field of
lava, which, like those I passed yesterday, had been torn and
shattered, either by the expansive force of the air underneath
at the time the lava was in a semi-fluid state, or by some vio-
lent convulsion of nature. The traveling over it was exces-
sively fatiguing, as the lava was both very rugged and brittle.

Leaving this barren and solitary waste, I soon passed on
my left several conical hills, which were once craters, but now
are overgrown with bushes and other vegetation.

At 3 o'clock I stopped at a shanty, erected by the side of
the road, to prepare dinner, and to allow the natives, who car-
ried the baggage and specimens, to come up.

Having refreshed ourselves, we pursued our way. The path
now lay through an open country, covered with light yellow soil
producing nothing but grasses, and a few whortleberry bushes.

SANDWICH ISLANDS.

Another two hours' walk brought us to a pool of rain water :
here we filled up our water bags and calabashes. There are
but few springs in this part of Hawaii, and no rivers — so that
the inhabitants are obliged to have recourse to the method of
catching rain-water in calabashes, which they keep suspended
in great numbers around the roofs of their habitations at all
times. Nature is boundless in her resources, and the more
we inquire and examine, the more we are lost in wonder and
admiration at the great scheme for carrying on the designs of
the Creator. Though some parts of these islands are left for
six months together without rain, yet an ample provision has
been made to counteract the ill-effects of so long a drought.
Vegetation, which, with us, would speedily perish without an
abundant supply of rain, is there sufficiently nourished by that
moisture, which plants, as they bud and blossom and produce
their fruit, have the power of hoarding up and retaining from
one rainy season to another, and by the heavy dews that
nightly fall upon their large expanded leaves.

About sunset, we arrived at Waiiha, where I determined to
spend the night. This is a pleasant village, situated witliin a
few miles of the sea-shore. The inhabitants appeared to be
in very comfortable circumstances ; their houses were large
and well furnished, after the native manner. The dwelling in
which I took lodgings, was the property of the principal
magistrate of the place. He himself was absent, but his wife
gave me a cordial welcome ; she received me with many ex-
pressions of kindness, led me into the house, and immediately
set about to prepare a repast. We had two dishes, which
deserve notice, as I believe they are peculiar to the natives of
these islands ; the names under which they are best known,
are Poi and Poi-dog — the former is made of boiled taro,
pounded up and mixed with water into a paste ; it is served up

VISIT TO THE GREAT VOLCANO. -<5ll

in calabashes, and conveyed to the mouth with the fingers, by
all ranks and ages. People who live on the sea-coast, eat
with it a small fish in a raw state, resembling the sardine.

The Poi-dog is not one of our common curs, but a dainty
animal, fed entirely on vegetable food, generally on taro made
into a poi, and hence the name — (a Hawaiian would no more
eat one of our kind of dogs than we would) — the animal is
sometimes roasted before the fire just as we roast beef ; but
more generally it is '' lau-ude," that is, after the skin is
taken off, the animal is wrapped up in leaves and put into a
hole made in the earth, of several feet in circumference, and
about two feet in depth ; when in, some more leaves are spread
over the animal, hot stones are then placed on the leaves, and
a covering of nine or ten inches thick, formed of leaves and
earth, is spread over the whole. In this state the animal
remains about three-quarters of an hour, when the hole is
opened and the animal taken out. The many eulogies passed
on the dish by my kind hostess, and my curiosity in the matter,
conquered my prejudices against the name, and really had I
not known to the contrary, I should have thought I was par-
taking of a piece of roast pig.

January 31st. At an early hour I took leave of the kind
family, with whom I passed the night. The Hawaiians are a
hospitable people, and there are many of them who, if they
had only one fowl or pig in the world, would cheerfully take
it to furnish a repast for a friend or a stranger.

After a brief walk I reached the sea-shore, which I found
thickly sprinkled with cottages. At 10 o'clock I halted at a
house which was deserted, to partake of some breakfast. This
house, I was told by the guide, had been the residence of a
chief, and was deserted during the recent eruption, when it
was believed that it, like many others, would be destroyed by

512 SAND VICH ISLANDS

the liquid lava. It was large and well built, and commanded
a fine vievv' of the ocean.

When breakfast was over, I proceeded to visit the place
where the stream of lava run into the sea during the eruption
just alluded to, also the three hills, said to have been formed
at the same time. The direction of the stream was northeast,
and is said to be between twenty and thirty miles in length,
and from one to nine thousand yards in width. When first
discovered it was supposed that a new crater had been formed ;
but it is now ascertained that it worked its way from the old
Volcano Kilauea. The depth of the stream, as seen down the
rents, w^as from five to twenty feet. At first it flowed smoothly,
and after remaining so for some ten days, broke up into its
present rough and confused state. I estimated its breadth,
where it run into the sea, to te two thousand feet. The lava,
as far as the eye could reach, was of a jet-black color, and
excessively brittle. I ascended two of the highest hills ; they
stood within a few yards of the beach, and parallel to each
other — were formed of sand, scoria, and ashes — and I found
their height to be two hundred feet. It is not likely they
will remain permanent, as the surf is continually beating
against their sides and gradually washing them away. Near
these hills were two sand-beaches, which owed their origin to
the sam.e eruption. The sand was composed of a substance
similar to that of the adjoining lava, and was probably formed
by the igneous stream coming in contact with the sea. The
lava suddenly cooling, flew into small pieces and particles, and
was thrown back upon the land by the agitated waters.

I now walked along the coast, sometimes keeping so near
the edge as to be wet with the spray of the surge which broke
violently against it. The houses thickened, and about 4
o'clock I reached a hamlet, consisting of some dozen or fifteen

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 2l3

cottages. Aftei; another two hours' walk I arrived at the last
vilhige within the district of Puna. The appearance presented
by this village was very inviting. The houses were mostly
built among shady groves, while the country in the vicinity
was beautifully laid out in plantations and gardens. It had
an air of freshness and comfort which was very gratifying,
especially after coming from the desolate scene above de-
scribed. The inhabitants, though not so well dressed, or per-
haps not so far advanced in the scale of civilization as those
about Hilo, were very kind and hospitable. Many of them
invited me to their houses, and made me presents of cocoa-
nuts and bananas.

After walking a mile or two farther I came to a piece of
wood, the traveling through which was exceedingly fatiguing
and dangerous, as at almost every step I sank ankle-deep into
mud, or fell into some hole, which the darkness of the night
rendered invisible. But as I was aware that the wood w^as of
no great extent, and that when through it I should be near my
journey's end, I pushed on, and about eight o'clock I had the
satisfaction of finding myself in the open country about Hilo.
I directed my steps to the Observatory, and on reaching it found
there one of our boats, which conveyed me to the ship, and so
ended this interesting jaunt. It afforded me both amusement
and instruction ; and it is not likely that some of the impres-
sions it has left upon my mind will ever be effaced while on
this side of the grave.

During my absence nothing worthy of particular notice tran-
spired, except the return of the expedition which set out to
ascend Mauna Loa. Indomitable perseverance eventually over-
came all obstacles, and the " Stars and Stripes" waved up-
wards of a week over one of the highest mountains in the world.
The success of the undertaking was as complete as could be

214 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

wished. The altitude of the most elevated point of the moun
tain was uieasured, and found to be 13,500 feet above the
level of the ocean.

The following observations, extracted from Mr. Eld's
journal, will give some idea of the character of the mountain,
and of the hardships experienced by our people during their
continuance on its summit. Ke says —

'' I never in all my life have witnessed so perfect a scene
of desolation as the upper region of this mountain presents.
There is not a tree on it, nor shrub, nor any other kind of vege-
tation, to refresh the eye. You behold nothing but a mass of
lava that at one period has been ejected in a liquid state from
the terminal crater. To appearance it is of different ages,
some of very ancient date, though not yet decomposed. In
some places it is smooth, in others it appears in the form of
clinkers, which occasionally are raised from five to thirty feet
above the surface of the surrounding lava. There are Severn 1
extinct craters in sight, one of which is even larger than that
of Kilauea."

" December 25th. This is the most uncomfortable Christ-
mas-day I have ever experienced. The only way we had of
keeping warm was to wrap ourselves in pea-coats and blankets.
We had not wood enough to cook our food, and I had to con-
tent myself with some sea-biscuit and a piece of raw pork."

" December 27th. The cold this day to our feehngs was
intense, although the thermometer did not stand lower than
28°. All our exertions in carrying stone for the wall which is
to surround our tents, for the purpose of protecting them from
the violent winds, and other exercises, such as running and
jumping, could scarcely keep us from freezing. We also found
it very difficult to breathe, on account of the rarified state of
the air. On examination it was also found that our pulses

SANDWICH ISLANDS, 21j

varied, and were very easily excited — mine fluctuated from
80 to 120 beats."

" December 28th. This has been a pleasant day for these
regions. At sunrise the effect of horizontal refraction on the
sun was very perceptible. It seemed quite small as it ap-
peared above the sea, forming a long horizontal ellipse of two
and a half diameters, first enlarging on one side and then
another."

" On the 31st the temperature at noon in the sun was 92°,
in the shade at 55°, and after dusk it was as low as 13°. In
the afternoon I had an attack of the Mountain Sickness. I
was sick at the stomach, and had a severe pain in the head."

" The night was favorable for observations, and we made
n\any."

On the morning of the 5th of February we got under-way,
and shaped our course for Maui.

The following day, at 2.45 P. M., the Island of Kaloolawe
bore west north-west. This is a small, barren island, and
used by the Hawaiian Government as a place of exile for con-
victs, who depend on rain-water for drink, and glean a scanty
subsistence from potatoes, which they manage to raise on one
or two fertile patches. At 4 P. M. we descried the Island of
Maui ; it appeared at a distance like two distinct islands.
The coast was generally bold and steep, and intersected by
numerous valleys, or ravines. Many of these are apparently
formed by streams from the mountains which flow through
them into the sea. The rocks along the coast were composed
of very hard compact lava, or a kind of basalt*

The habitations of the natives appeared in clusters at the
openings of the valleys, or scattered over the sides of the
hills. It is a beautiful island.

About sunset we came-to off Lahaina, the principal town.

21t3 SANDWICH ISLANDS^

February 8th. This forenoon we were honored with a visit
from his Hawiian majesty, Tamahameha III. As we had the
chronometers on board we did not salute him, but paid him,
however, every other mark of respect. Tamahameha III, or
Kamme, as he is familiarly called, is a son of the celebrated
Tamahameha I., and a brother of Liho-Liho, during Avhose
reign idolatry and the taboo system were abolished. He is
probably twenty-seven years of age, of a middle height, and
rather inclined to be corpulent. His complexion is dark olive,
his hair of a jet black and straight, and his countenance
mild and interesting. In disposition, he is frank, kind and
generous. The people always speak of him as a good man.
His manners are perfectly free and agreeable. He was edu-
cated under the surveillance of the missionaries, and, besides
reading and writing his own language, can speak English and
Spanish intelligibly. About two years since, he married the
daughter* of a chief of the second rank, but, as yet, he has
no children. He is generally attended by a number of favor-
ites who join in all his amusements and occupations. His
dress on state occasions, consists of a blue coat with epaulettes,
v/hite pantaloons and vest, a chapeau, and a sword. At
other times, he generally appears in a blue jacket and a blue
cloth cap with a gold band around it. He is very fond of the
sea, and has a schooner belonging to himself, in which he
spends much of his time. He is also fond of all kinds of ath-
letic exercises, is an excellent rider, and a good shot. He
made us a long visit, and examined every part of the ship.
He appears to entertain a high opinion of Americans, and I
understand he frequently consults them upon matters of state.
The Rev. Mr. Richards, who acts as his private secretary,

• It is said he married her from love, after the chiefs refused to allow him to marry
one of his sisters— a practice which in former times was not considered improper.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 217

and who accompanied him on the present occasion, is a native
of New England.

February 9th, To-day I visited the town. It is built near
the sea-shore, and the principal street is about a mile long.
Near the landing-place is a fort in good repair and well adapted
for defence. Many of the houses have gardens attached
to them, in which are growing taro, plantains, bananas,
cabbages, onions, and a great variety of other vegetables.
The king's palace is not yet finished, and he resides at pre-
sent in a grass house built after the native style. The ma-
terial employed in the construction of the new building is
coral, brought from the neighboring reefs. The town contains
several stores, a chapel, and a reading-room. It has con-
siderable trade with whaling vessels.

The inhabitants are numerous, and as well-dressed and well-
behaved as any we have seen in the group. The surrounding
country is very romantic and beautiful. The whole valley in
the rear of the town is a perfect garden. The habitations of the
natives are seen peeping through the leaves of the trees ; a fine
stream takes its course from one end of the valley to the other—
in some places flowing along gently and smoothly — at others,
rushing down a fall of several feet, and dashing and breaking
against the rocks that intercepts its progress ; while the sides
of the hills which bound the valley towards the interior, are
covered with verdure. An excellent view may be obtained of
this charming landscape from the summit of the hill on which
the high-school is located. There, as you stand, nearly three
hundred feet high, you behold in one view the whole scene in
which there are beauties that words cannot describe.

" But T7lio can paint

Like nature ? Can imagination boast

Amidst its gay creation, hues like her's '

218 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

And lay them on so delicately fine,
And lose tliem in each other, as appears
In every bud that blows ? If fancy then
Unequal, fail beneath the pleasing task,
Ah ! "what shall language do ?"

Want of time prevented my visiting the High-school, but,
I understand, it js not in a very flourishing condition. The
missionary gentlemen connected with the institution are, it is
said, unfitted for the management of its operations. From
this school, of late years, have been taken all the native teach-
ers, and most of the young men employed on the part of the
government. On returning to the beach, I found it thronged
■with native children, -who were amusing themselves in the
surf. This seems to be a favorite sport, not only with chil-
dren, but men and women, and it is a novel and a beautiful
sight to see them coming in on the top of a wave moving
TNith a velocity that w^ould overtake the swiftest of our race-
horses.

Sometimes they will suddenly disappear, and thus remain
until another roller comes along, and dashes them upon
the beach. They will not engage in the sport unless the
surf is running high. The surf-board which they use is
made of some Hght wood, and is about six feet in length
and twenty inches wide. It appeared to me to be a very
dangerous amusement, especially for children ; but they
seemed not to mind it. I continued to gaze on the scene
until our sun-down boat shoved off to return to the ship.

In the course of the afternoon Messrs. Budd and May
left the ship to survey the shoal off the Island of Kaloo-
lawe.

March 10th. Several boats have been employed to-day in
surveying and sounding the harbor, or, more properly, the

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 221

roadstead; the best anchorage is abreast of the Kmg's Flag
Staff.

March 13th. This afternoon Mr. May and his boat's crew
returned in canoes paddled by natives, the boat having
gone to pieces at sea the same day he left the ship. It
was very fortunate that Mr. Budd was near at hand with
his boat. Seeing their situation, he immediately pulled up
to them, and conveyed the crew ashore. He then returned
to the wreck for the instruments and Mr. May, who he
found had drifted, in the meantime, two or three miles out
to sea.

After landing, they walked some twenty miles before they
reached the settlement, where they were hospitably entertained
by the chief, and furnished with canoes to bring them back to
the ship. Mr. May might have gone ashore with the men,
but he generously declined to leave the wreck until the crew
were taken off first.

In the evening, Mr. Budd arrived with the instruments ; he
stated that bad weather had prevented him from carrying out
the instructions, in regard to the survey intrusted to his
charge.

March 15th. At an early hour this morning, Mr. Budd
and Mr. Sanford left with two boats to join the king's
schooner, the use of which his Majesty had offered to
Captain Wilkes until the shoal off Kaloolawe could be sur-
veyed.

The following day we ascertained by triangulation, the
elevation of the highest peak on Maui. It is six thousand
three hundred feet above the level of the ocean. At a height
of two thousand feet from the base of this mountain, both the
climate and soil are said to be well adapted to the growth of
wheat and Irish potatoes.

222 SANDWICH ISLANDS.

About noon Ave got under way, and stood over towards
Kaloolawe under all sail. We '' laj^-to " during the greater
part of the night.

March 17th. At daylight wore ship, and stood in for
Kaloolawe, and soon after fell in with the king's schooner.
As she had not yet completed her surveying duties, we
called away all our boats, and sent them to assist her.
About 9 A. M., the boats returned, and we filled away and
stood for Oahoo, while the king's schooner stood back for
Maui.

The shoal here alluded to is situated about two miles from
the shore, has two fathoms water on it, at low tide, and is
composed of a number of rocks, all within the circumference
of three hundred feet. Ships passing through the channel
between Hawaii and Maiui>iBbMtL4in|^ to anchor in Lahina
Roads, must give Kaloolawe a wide berth, and steer for the
Peak of Lanai until the High-school of Lahaina bears to the
eastward of east northeast, when they may haul in, and steer
directly for it.

The principal object in returning to Oahoo, is to replenish
our stock of provisions and stores.

On the morning of the 19th, we anchored in' Honolulu
harbor. We found our friends and acquaintances all well,
and apparently delighted at our return. Received an official
visit from the Governor of the island. He was received with
all due respect. Governor Kekuanaoa is a noble, intelligent
looking man, and possesses great energy of character. He is
one of the chiefs who accompanied King Liho-Liho in his
visit to England, and speaks the English language quite
well. He married the daughter of Tamahameha I., and
his son Prince Alexander I., is now the heir to the Hawaiian
throne.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 223

On the 22d, Lieutenant Alden, with two boats in charge,
left the ship to re-sound, and re-survey the harbor off Pearl
River, on account of some doubts being expressed by the
inhabitants of Honolulu, as to the accuracy of the former
survey.

March 25th. This evening. Lieutenant Alden returned
from Pearl River, and reported two of his crew as having
deserted. He states that he found every part of his former
survey correct.

221 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

CHAPTER XVIII.

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

Having completed our surveying and scientific duties at
the Sandwich Islands, on the morning of the 5th of April we
sailed for the northwest coast of America. As light winds
prevailed during this and the following day we did not make
much progress on our course.

On the evening of the Tth, we passed the Island of Kauie.
This is another of the Sandwich Islands ; it is about forty
miles in length and twenty-three in breath. The population
is estimated at 12j000. Its valleys are fertile, and produce
sugar-cane, yams, and taro.

On the 19th, we experienced a great change in the weather ;
the wind shifted from the southward and eastward to the
northward, and we had some violent squalls, which compelled
us to reduce sail to reefed- topsails. In a few minutes after
the wind shifted, there was a very sensible change in the
temperature, and we found it necessary to put on our w^oolen
clothing to keep comfortable. At noon our latitude was
33° 12' 00" north, longitude 152° 28' 00" west.

During the 20th, 21st, and 23d, we must have sailed
through hundreds of acres covered with the Villula, or little
man-of-war, as they are commonly called by sailors, from their
resemblance to a vessel under canvas. They all had their
little sails expanded, and were steering in the same direction
as our ship. Their sail is a thin, semi-transparent membrane,

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 225

extending diagonally from one side of the animal to the other.
"When examined in a bucket of water in the open air, it ap-
peared to be almost white, but in certain lights, and in its
native element, its edges are tinged by the most brilliant blue
and crimson reflections. From the body are suspended numer-
ous hair-like tentacula, or feelers, that are constantly engaged
in entangling the food upon which the animal lives. It was
an interesting sight to see these delicate little creatures mount-
ing securely over the lofty billows, though a brisk breeze was
carrying us along at the rate of eight or nine knots an hour.

On the morning of the 28th of April we made Cape Disap-
pointment, off the mouth of the Columbia River, but, as the
weather was boisterous, and the sea broke with great violence
on the bar, we did not deem it prudent to attempt to enter the
river. Next morning the prospects of getting in were no
better; indeed, the chances seemed to be still more against
us, as the wind during the night had hauled round to the
southward and westward with increased strength ; we there-
fore concluded to stand for Puget Sound, to the northward.
About 10 A. M. on the 30th, the "look-outs" reported
" breakers a-head" ; immediately all hands were called, and
the ship was brought by the wind. After standing a few
minutes on this course the weather cleared, and we discovered
Destruction Rocks not more than half a mile off, and exactly in
the direction w^here the breakers had been reported to be. It
was in fact a very narrow escape from shipwreck and certain
destruction, for even if we had succeeded in getting ashore, we
should in all probability have been murdered by the savage
natives. A few years ago a Russian brig was wrecked near
the same place, the vessel went to pieces, but the crew got
safely on shore. They were immediately attacked by the
natives and massacred. Another time they attacked the boat

226 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

of an American vessel that was engaged in tlie fur-trade, and
killed several of the crew. The savages pretended at first
that they had come to trade. Our pilot, who has been much
among them, also represents them as being a treacherous and
savage set.

This circumstance goes to show that we must have been
under the influence of a strong current setting to the eastward,
for we had been steering all the preceding night northwest, a
course which gave the rocks a berth of between thirty and
forty miles.

At 3 P. M. we passed between the two outer Flattery
Rocks, carrying ten fathoms all the way through, and between
4 and 5 o'clock passed Cape Flattery proper.

We now sailed close along the starboard-shore, which gave
us an opportunity of forming some idea of it. A chain of
small islands and rocks run parallel with it some eight or ten
miles after passing the Cape. It had but little beach, became
high and broken in the interior, and was covered with a dense
forest, apparently composed of the fir-tree.

A little before sunset several canoes put off from a small
bay and pulled toward us, evidently with the intention of
paying us a visit, but we had no time to wait for them to get
along-side, and after following us some time they turned back.
In two of the canoes we observed several women, who seemed
to take as active a share in the labors of the paddle as the
men. They were all dressed in skins and blankets, and their
heads were covered with a green-looking straw-hat of a conical
form, with a very broad base, much resembling those which
the Chinese are represented in pictures as wearing.

The weather during the night was very disagreeable.

May 1st. The weather continues cold and rainy. The
shore we have passed to-day has been divided into steep clifis

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. _ 227

and heads, with intermediate beaches. At 9 A. M. a large
canoe, paddled by nine Indians, boarded us. They were all
small in stature, and far from being good-looking, having
broad, flat faces, with high cheek-bones and low foreheads.
They were also very dirty about their persons, so much so
that it was difficult to make out the color of their skin. One
of them was dressed in corduroy pantaloons, and a jacket
made of scarlet" cloth, and could speak a little English. Their
OAvn language was harsh and disagreeable, seeming to be made
up principally of gutterals, and the sounds elude and click
They wore as ornaments a small silver tube stuck through
tlie partition of the nose, and small brass bells suspended
around the rim of their ears. They had with thera some eight
or ten otter skins, but were unwilling to sell them. It
seemed as though they had come merely to look at the ship,
she being the largest they had ever seen. They remained on
board several hours and then went along-side the " Porpoise."
May 2d. This morning another canoe, manned by seven
men and one squaw, boarded us. They brought with them
some fish, which they readily exchanged for a few pipes and
some tobacco. The woman was seated in the bow of the
canoe, and was not permitted by the men to come on board.
At 3.30 P. M. we passed Point Dungenness, a low, woody
tongue of land. After passing this point, our progress w^as
greatly impeded by a very strong ebb-tide. It run between
three and four miles an hour. We observed as we sailed
along this part of the coast a great number of tall poles, which
our pilot informed me, were stuck up by the Indians for the
purpose of suspending nets to them, in Avhich they take geese
and other wild fowl that frequent these shores at certain sea-
sons of the year. About sunset w^e reached Port Discovery,
and anchored for the night. Numbers of men, women and

228 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

children came running down to the beach as soon as we made
our entrance, and some of them got into their canoes and came
along-side. They were no bettor looking nor more cleanly than
those we had before seen, and we were very glad to purchase
the fish they brought for sale, in order to get them out of the
ship as soon as possible.

This harbor is a superb one, being easy of access, free from
rocks or shoals, eight miles long, and from one and a half to
two miles wide — possessing the very best kind of bottom, and
with sufficient depth of water for the largest vessel to lay
within two hundred yards of the shore. The country in the
vicinity is not mountainous, but vises into hills of moderate
elevation, covered all over with pine and spruce trees of the
largest dimensions.

May 3d. The following General Order was issued this
afternoon, and passed round to be read : —

" The undersigned informs the officers and crews under his
command, that the duties upon which they are about to enter,
will necessarily bring them at times in contact with the
savage and treacherous inhabitants of this coast, and he there-
fore feels it his duty, to enjoin upon them the necessity of
unceasing caution, and a restrictive and mild system in all
their intercourse with them.

'' In my General Orders, of July 13th, 1839, my views are
expressed fully, respecting our intercourse with savages, and I
expect that the instructions therein contained, will be strictly
regarded.

" With a knowledge that many of the misfortunes that have
befallen previous voyagers on this coast, have arisen from an
unrestrained and unguarded intercourse with the natives, he
deems it important to order officers in charge of boats, and

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 220

those having men under their direction, to make it their espe-
cial duty to govern them so as to avoid any disputes, or mal-
treatment of the Indians ; and that force is never to be
resorted to, but in cases of self-defence.

''No officer or man ^vill be allowed to visit the shore,
without arms ; and boats' crews upon surveying, or other
duties, will be furnished with ^ such as are necessary for their
protection.

" United States ship ' Vincennes,'

" Charles Wilkes."

Wc had a grand feast to-day, on fish and clams, which we
bought from the natives along-side. The latter are not so
large as those found on our own coast, but they are more
tender, and much better flavored. They may be obtained in
any quantities, any where along the beach. The fish were of
the salmon and cod kinds. It is yet rather too early in the
season for salmon, but they are very fine notwithstanding, es-
pecially when broiled.

May 5th. Several of the boats have been employed to-day
in surveying the harbor.

In the forenoon I visited the shore. The beach abreast the
ship was covered with Indian huts ; they were constructed in
the rudest manner imaginable, consisting of a few mats and
rushes spread out on poles, and offering little or no protection
against either the wind or rain. ' The fire was kindled upon
the ground near the centre, and the interior of the building
was filled with smoke. I was almost blinded by venturing
into one of them, and was very glad to get out again into the
open air. A mat or two spread on the ground near the fire,
was used for sitting and sleeping upon. This was the only
furniture to be seen, and the only article which could conduce

230 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

to comfort. The owners of these wretched dwellings called
themselves Clalams, and were the most singular looking people
w^e had ever seen. The top of their heads was as flat as a
board. This was caused by compression when they were very
young. I was surprised to find them so poorly clad, in weather
that was almost cold enough to freeze water ; none had on
more than one blanket, and some of them were to be seen
going about in a state of perfect nudity. I never before had
seen a people who seemed to have so little shame.

The children seemed to give their mothers but little trouble ;
the infants were tied to a piece of bark which hung to a pole,
and was kept in motion by a string fastened to the toe of the
mother. The little creatures w^ere perfectly naked.

I observed the men were well supplied with muskets, fowl-
ing pieces, and knives, which they procure from the Hudson's
Bay Company in exchange for furs. They had also bows and
arrows, and the latter were pointed with iron.

The roofs and sides of many of the huts were hung with fish,
strung on poles or sticks. There can be no want of food
here, as the waters abound with excellent fish, and the forest
with game of all kinds. Deer and bear-tracks are to be seen
in every direction, and the natives have only to go a few
yards from their huts, to kill enough to feed on for weeks
together.

I spent several hours in wandering about in the neighboring
woods. They were composed almost exclusively of pines,
many of which were of immense diameter and height. I mea-
sured several that were twenty-five feet in circumference, and
upwards of two hundred feet in height. The underbrush was
not thick, and the'principal impediment to clear walking ^vas the
vast number of fallen trees, over which I was obliged to climb.
I saw numerous tracks o^ quadrupeds' and one or two flocks of

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 231

wild geese. The natives say the proper time for kilhng deer
is early in the morning, at which time they resort to the
springs to drink. Occasionally I encountered extensive
thickets of rose-bushes, through which some large animal ap-
peared but recently to have passed.

On returning to the beach I passed a burial-ground. It
was surrounded with stakes to prevent the wild beasts from
entering it, and the corpses instead of being interred were
wrapped in mats, and placed upon the ground in a sitting
posture.

May 6th. Having completed the survey of the harbor, we
again spread our sails to the breeze and stood out into the
Sound, followed by a great number of canoes, vfhich had for
sale fish, clams, and venison. We laid in a large supply of
these ; and tlie articles preferred in exchange were, as usual,
powder, fish-hooks, clothing, and paint. The fish were the
largest we had seen of the kind — some of the cod weighing be-
tween forty and fifty pounds. Towards evening the wind
became so light we could not stem the tide, and so v/e stood
into Port Townsend, and anchored in ten fathoms water. This
is another excellent harbor.

A short walk from the beach here brings you to a beautiful
lawn, ornamented with a great variety of pretty flowers. It
extends several miles into the interior, and abounds in small
lakes, around which hovered vast numbers of ducks and geese.
The wood which skirts the green is composed of the same kind
of trees as that about Port Discovery.

The Indians inhabiting the surrounding shores are clad in
blankets and skins of wild beasts, and appear friendly. They
are passionately fond of smoking, and will exchange anything
they have for pipes and tobacco. The principal ornament
worn by the women is 3i round, piece of white bone, of about

232 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

two inches in length stuck through the cartilage of their
noses.

■May Tth. At 1 P. M. we proceeded to get under-wa}-, but
were obliged to come-to again soon after on account of light
variable winds. Mounts Reinier and Baker are visible from
this point. They both rise to a great altitude, and their sum-
mits are covered with perpetual snows. There were no natives
to be seen at this place, nor any evidences of any ever having
been here. The weather during the night was boisterous,
and as the anchorage is not well protected, the ship rolled
heavily, so much so that we could scarcely walk the decks.

May 8th. Early in the morning we sent the boats out to
survey, although the weather was by no means favorable for
such duties. Several of the boats narrowly escaped being
swamped. We finished about noon, when we made sail and
beat to the southward and eastward along Admiralty Sound,
with a fresh breeze and a heavy head-sea till about 7 P. M.,
when we again let-go our anchor within a quarter of a mile of
the shore. The water here was deep, and the coast on either
hand bold and rugged, and apparently uninhabited. We
named this place Pilot Cone, from the circumstance of our
receiving there two pilots in the employ of the Hudson's Bay
Company, to take the Squadron up to Nisqually.

May 10th. We have enjoyed beautiful weather all this day,
and I cannot conceive a more magnificent picture than the
Mountains Rainier and Olympus presented as the rising sun
illumined their lofty peaks, and dispersed the mists that still
floated in fleecy clouds over the tranquil valleys around their
bases. The altitude of the latter mountain is stated to be
eight thousand feet. At 2.30 P. M. we got under-way. The
Sound now became quite narrow, being in some places not
more than half a mile wide. Some Indians were observed

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

233

to day, followed by their dogs, wliicli were small, and had a
head and ears strongly resemblmg those of the wolf. At
sunset we came-to under the western shore to wait for day-light.
It was a rich treat to behold the sublime prospect around
us through all its transitions of sunshine — purple hues, mellow
twihght, and evening shades — until there was nothing else to
be seen but the dark masses of Rainier and Olympus, uplift-
ing themselves against the clear and starry skies of this region.

May 11th. At an early hour we were out surveying an
usual. When finished we again spread our canvas, and made
the best of our way for Nisqually, distant about twelve miles.
After running about an hour we reached the narrowest part of
the Sound, which, at this point was less than 400 yards wide ; the
shores on either side were high and precipitous, and the tide run
like a sluice. Just before w^e arrived at the narrows, above
described, we passed on our left what appeared to be a large
arm of the Sound. We also passed several small conical-
shaped islands. About dusk we at length reached our port, and
anchored in twenty-two fathoms water. We found here a
steamer belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, and kept to
run about the coast to collect furs from the Indians. The
Sound is here divided into a great number of arms, some a
mile or two wide,and apparently thirty or forty miles in length.

May 12th. Hauled-in close to the shore and moored ship,
as we are to remain here some weeks, and perhaps months.
Sent all the scientific instruments to tlie Observatory, except
the pendulum. Lieutenant Johnson has been temporarily
detached from the " Porpoise," and ordered to take charge of
a party that is to examine the interior. Received orders to
hold myself in readiness to proceed with Lieutenant Case to
Hood's Canal, for the purpose of surveying the same. In the
afternoon a large number of natives came on board, among

234

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

them were some vromen, who were very good-looking and bet-
ter dressed than any we have before seen. They came to ex-
change some moccasins and baskets for red paint and looking
glasses. The moccasins were neatly and even tastefully
made, and fomid ready market among the officers, who wished
to preserve them as specimens of Indian ingenuity and taste.

July 3d. We reported our return from the so-called Hood's
Canal, having been absent from the ship upwards of three
weeks; it was found to be an arm of Puget Sound. Its
shores are nowhere more than one hundred feet in height, and
are formed of stratified clay, with a light gravelly soil, covered
with pine and spruce. At Tskutska Point the Canal divides
into two branches — one taking a direction nearly northerly,
while the other pursues, its course to the southwest. At the
southern extremity of the canal there is an extensive inlet,
called " Black Creek," by which the Indians communicate
with the Columbia and Chickelees Rivers. The water in the
centre of the canal is too deep for anchorage, but there are
several good harbors, of all of which surveys were made.

We fell in with Indians almost every day, and had con-
siderable intercourse with them in the way of trade — they sup-
plying us with venison and fish, and we giving them in ex-
change powder, fish-hooks, red paint, and cotton handker-
chiefs. The venison, in particular, was sold very cheap — five
of the ordinary musket charges of powder being the price of a
whole carcass.

Though these Indians seemed to understand each other,
they informed us that they belonged to difierent tribes. One
party called themselves Squamish, another Socomish, and a
third party Toandos. The Squamish appeared to be the most
numerous, and, according to their own account, could muster
two hundred fighting men. The Toandos were the best-look-

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 235

ing, and they assured us that they inhabited the mountains,
and ^Ye^e now paying a visit to their friends the Socomish.
All these tribes, in their habits and manner of living, re-
semble those about Nisqually. On leaving the ship Ave were
warned to be on the watch for them, as they were arrant
thieves, but I am not aware that they ever attempted to take
anything from us, except one of the eye-pieces belonging to the
Theodolite. This seemed to excite their attention more than
anything else connected with the expedition, and they fre-
quently asked us if it could speak, and whether it had not
something to do with the " Great Spirit."* The women are
not very good-looking, and the v/hole burden of domestic occu-
pation is thrown upon them.

They have no permanent settlements ; and there were
several families who followed us wherever we went, and became
familiar with some of the sailors. The men possess muskets,
spears, and bows, and arrows. The bo^vs are short and small,
but have great elasticity, and when in their hands will do
good execution.

The Canal does not terminate where Vancouver's charts
would lead one to suppose, but extends ten miles further to the
northward and eastward, and approaches within two miles of
the waters of the Puget Sound, from which point we communi-
cated with the " Vincennes," the second week out, and obtained
a fresh supply of bread and other provisions. There is plenty
of fresh water along the shore, and we found several streams
large enough to turn mills. Generally speaking, the soil is not
rich, and the climate is similar to that experienced at this place.

* The eye-piece was finally recovered through the kindness of Mr. Anderson, the
principal agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at Nisqually, by threatening the tribe
who had it, the Socomish, with the destruction of their villages and canoes, if they
did not give it up by a certain day.

255 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

July 5tli. Yesterday was the " Glorious Fourth," but
being also Sunday, it "vyas very properly agreed that the cele-
bration should be postponed until to-day ; accordingly, at an
early hour this morning, all was bustle and preparation on
board the ship. By nine o'clock all the crew were mustered
in* clean white frocks and trowsers, and I was directed to tak.
charge of them for the day. Soon after we landed abreast of
the ship, and walked up to the Observatory. Here we formed
into a procession, and marched off with drums and fifes play-
ing, and the Star-spangled Banner waving, for Fort Nis-
qually, Vendovi bringing up the rear. Vendovi was dressed
'' a-la-Fejee," and appeared to enjoy the occasion quite as
much as any one present.

On arriving abreast of the fort we halted, and gave three
cheers, which were promptly returned by Mr. Anderson and
people. We next marched to a piece of open ground, distant
about half a mile from the fort. This was the place chosen
for the dinner and amusements. There were a great many
Indians gathered here, looking at us silently and with much
astonishment. At the usual time^ dinner was piped by the
boatswain and his mates, and we all repaired to partake of the
ox which had been purchased from Mr. Anderson, and bar-
bacued for the occasion.

So far, everything had contributed to make the day a very
pleasant one. But as there can be no such thing as perfect
happiness in this sublunary world of ours, so now a circum-
stance occurred which for a time threw a gloom over the
party. When the salute was fired, one of the men, named
Whitehorn, had his arm seriously injured by the sudden explo-
sion of the gun. The wound was dressed as well as it could
be, and a litter was made, on which he was conveyed to the
ship, under the charge of his messmates.

NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 237

When dinner was over, the amusements ■ of the morning
were exchanged for the excitement of horse-racing — the
horses having been engaged from the Indians for that pur-
pose. Sailors like this sport better than almost any other,
though very few are able to ride well ; but, on this occasion,
fortunately, no one was hurt, although a good many were
thrown by their steeds.

All the officers, together with Captain McNeil, Dr. Rich-
ards, and Mr. Henderson, dined at the Observator}^, with
Captain Wilkes. Captain McNeil and Dr. Sichards are
native Americans. The Captain came here a number of
years since, and engaged in the fur business, and succeeded so
well in it, that the Hudson's Bay Company were glad to buy
him off. He is now a trader in the Company's service, own-
ing stock, and receiving a share of the dividends. He is
married to a half-breed, and resides in the fort, with Mr. An-
elerson.

Dr. Richards is attached to the Methodist Mission, and
appears to be a kind, gentlemanly man ; his residence is
situated near the Observatory, and I called there, in the
course of the afternoon, to pay my respects to his lady, who
received me very kindly.

The doctor informed us that the Mission had but recently
been established, and so far, it had not been able to accom-
plish much ; and it was his honest opinion that it never would
answer the expectations of its friends at home.

After the rejoicings w^ere ended, I returned the men on
board the ship, in the same good order as they had landed,
and, I dare say, it will long be remembered by us all, as one
of the most pleasant celebrations we have ever experienced.

July 6th. We received, this morning, a visit from Dr.
McLaughlin. The doctor is the Chief Factor and Governor

238 NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA.

of the Hudson's Bay Company. He left Vancouver about a
week since, and lie expressed his regrets at not being able to
reach Nisqually in time to be present at the celebration of the
Fourth ; he lost his way, when about a hundred miles from the
fort. He is a tall, dignified-looking man, with a fair com-
plexion, and I should judge his age to be nearly seventy.
He is of Scotch extraction, but by birth a Canadian. He
has been in the employ of the Company upwards of forty
3'ears, and is said to be pre-eminently fitted for the situation
he occupies, being a man of great energy of character, and
much talent.

Captain Wilkes conducted liim around the ship, and he
seemed much pleased.

On his leaving, to return to the shore, the yards were
manned, and three cheers were given him, in a manner which
showed that we appreciated his kindness towards us; they
were three very hearty cheers.

July 16th. To-day, Mr. Johnson and party returned from
the interior. They speak favorably of the country passed
over, and of the Indians they fell in with. At a place called
Chimikane, they found two missionaries, Messrs. Walker
and Eel, Avhose labors had been attended with remarkable
success. Among other duties, they had taught the Indians
the art of cultivation, and many of them now subsist entirely
on the produce which they raise on their lands.

As nothing has yet been heard from the " Peacock," which,
on leaving the Sandwich Islands, was ordered to visit the
King's Mill Group, and then meet the rest of the squadron
at the Columbia River, fears are entertained by many, that
she has met vfith some serious accident.

MAKING ARRANGEMENTS. 239

CHAPTER XIX.

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER, BY LAND.

July 17th. I received orders to-day, to join Mr. Eld in
an expedition, wliich has for its object, the exploration and
survey of Chickelees River and Grey's Harbors These
orders came rather unexpectedly, and at a very late hour.
The ship was already under-way, and I was at my station,
when I received them. It seems, that when the expedition
was first planned by Captain Wilkes, he designed having Lieu-
tenant Johnson take charge of it, and Mr. Eld to accompany
him as his assistant ; but Mr. Johnson found fault with his
written instructions, whereupon Captain Wilkes took the com-
mand from him, and gave it to Mr. Eld, and I am ordered
to fill Mr. Eld's former place.

As soon as I was able to get together my instruments and
bedding, we shoved off from the ship, and landed on the beach
at the foot of Nisqually Hill, where we pitched our tents for
the night, as it was almost sunset before we left the vessel,
and we had considerable to do before we could proceed on our
journey. Among other things, it was absolutely necessary
we should see Mr. Anderson, as he was to supply us with the
" trade" whrdi we required, to make our purchases from the
Indians. Indeed, our instructions do not require us to leave
Nisqually before the 19th instant. The following are the
other individuals composing the party : — Mr. Brackenridge,
assistant botanist, sergeant Stearns, two marines, named

240 MAKING ARRANGEMENTS.

Dismond and Rogers, two sailors by the names of Brooks and
Ford, and a half-breed boy, named Joseph, who is to act a?
interpreter.

About the time we reached the shore, we saw the ''Vin-
cennes"* weigh her anchor, and stand down the Sound; the
breeze was favorable, and having all sails set, we soon lost
sight of her.

8 P. M., w^e have just seen a Squaw Chief, of the Sachal
tribe, who has promised to meet us at the first " Portage,"
and act as our guide to the Sachal River.

At early daylight Mr. Eld and myself walked up to the
fort, and handed Mr. Anderson a list of the articles of trade
required, which he at once directed to be put up, and con-
veyed to our tents. After this we went, by invitation, on
board the Company's schooner, and breakfasted with her com-
mander, Captain Scarborough, whom we found to be a very
intelligent man, and from whom we received a good deal of
information, respecting the Company's affairs. From the
schooner, we returned to Nisqually, to take leave of Mr. An-
derson and Captain McNeil ; after which, we repaired to the
beach, caused the tents to be struck, and in a few minutes
more we were on our way to the first Portage. We had not
proceeded far, however, before we discovered that both our
canoes were leaking in all directions, and in order to prevent
their being swamped, it was necessary to keep one man in
each, constantly bailing. Everything fore and aft was wet
through, and the bread and flour w^ere almost ruined. Owing
to this circumstance, w^iicli of course, checked our progress,
we have not been able to reach the first Portage to-day, as we
had hoped doing when we first set out.

It is not very probable that we shall have occasion again, to

* She left for San Francisco, California.

OBSEHVATIONS ON NISQUALLY. 241

return to Nisqually. I will, therefore, here offer all the addi-
tional observations which I have to make, regarding it. Its
situation is a bad one for trade, as the anchorage is so small
that only a few vessels can be accommodated within a proper
distance from the shore ; and the long hill which it is neces-
sary to ascend, in order to get to the fort, is a serious objec-
tion to its becoming a place of deposit for merchandize, as it
would very much increase the labor and expense of transporta-
tion. Many better places than Nisqually could be found, for
a location of a town in the same part of the Sound, and it is a
matter of wonder to me, why they were not preferred.

The fort is constructed of pickets, inclosing an area of
about two hundred and fifty feet square, with four corner bas-
tions. Within this space are the Agent's stores, and about
half-a-dozen log-houses. The fort, when constructed, was
thought to be large enough, but since it has become an agri-
cultural post, as well as a trading one, it is found too small,
and Mr. Anderson thought it would be enlarged in the course
of a year or two. I was in the garden several times, and
found it to be under good cultivation; the onions, turnips,
peas, &c., &c., all looked very thriving.

The surrounding country is said to be very healthy, and
the winter to be mild and of short duration. The Indians in
the neighborhood are not numerous, perhaps the whole num-
ber not exceeding three hundred. They belong to the tribes
who compress their heads, and they are vicious and exceed-
ingly lazy; I have frequently gone into their t^nts in the
middle of the day, and found every member of the family
asleep. They are also inveterate gamblers, carrying the vice
to the extent of staking their wives and children, and even
themselves, for years of slavery ! their clothing consists of a
blanket, a pair of skin breeches, and moccasins.

242 OBSERVATIONS ON NISQUALLY.

They are all of wandering habits, and change their resi-
dences in search of their food, -which consist, principally, of
fish and clams ; the latter may be seen in great quantities in
their tents, strung on sticks, upon which they have been pre-
served by smoking and drying. They likewise store up for
winter use the camass root and smoked salmon ; but generally,
however, they are not well fed, as they are too lazy to exert
themselves for a supply of food, unless they are in actual want.

In the winter several families hve together in lodges con-
structed of plank ; when warm weather returns they break
up, and resort in small parties to those places where they can
obtain their food most easily. They all understand the Che-
nook language, but when speaking to each other, they use a lan-
guage which they call their own, and which differs materially
from the Chenook.

The mean temperature during our stay was found to be 59°,
and during the same period, the barometer averaged 29.30
inches.

The following morning, at the request of Mr. Eld, I pro-
ceeded to the portage, for the purpose of seeing the Chief Squaw
before mentioned, and making arrangements with her for
Indians and horses to carry the party across the Portage. I
arrived there after a pull of ten or fifteen minutes, and shortly
after saw an Indian, who informed me that he had been sent
by the chief woman to say, that she could not afford us the
promised assistance that day, but would to-morrow without
fail. I requested the Indian to show me to her house, as I
imagined that by seeing her in person I could persuade her to
change her mind, but he assured me that she was absent, and
would not return home until late in the evening. It was vex-
atious to meet with so many impediments at the very outset
of the expedition

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 243

On the following day we made an early start, and by 8
o'clock we reached the Portage. The chief woman was there
awaiting us, with her horses, five in number ; they were large
fine-looking animals, and in excellent condition, which is not
generally the case with Indian horses. She also brought with
her ten men, who were to assist in carrying the small canoe.
The large one, she declared, was too heavy to transport, and
if we would let her have it, she would give us a smaller one
in return, when we arrived at the Sachal River, which offer we
very thankfully accepted. In less than an hour all the ar-
rangements had been completed, and we proceeded on our
journey, the Indians bringing up the rear.

It is due to the Chief Squaw to say, that we owe this dis-
patch principally to her ; though her husband was present,
she made all the bargains, and gave the Indians their direc-
tions. She is a woman of great energy of character, and
exercises greater authority over those around her than any
man chief I have met with since I have been in the country.
She is about fifty years of age, and dresses very neatly for an
Indian woman.

We were three hours in accomplishing the Portage. It is
between four and five miles long, over a gently rising country
■thickly covered with maple and spruce trees. The soil is com-
posed of vegetable mould, and seemed to be entirely free from
rocks or stones.

Soon after passing the Portage, we came to a small lake,
called by the Indians, Sachal, which we examined and found
to be three miles in circumference. The soil around it was
light brown, sandy loam, and the forest extends down to the
water's edge. In the deepest part of .the lake, the water
appears to have a reddish tinge, but on examining it in. a tum-
bler, it looked as clear as crystal. The Indians informed us,

244 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

that there was another lake to the northeast, and next day
Mr. Eld and myself set out to visit it. We arrived there
after a walk of several hours, and the supposed lake proved
SO insignificant as to hardly deserve the name of a pond;
it was not more than one hundred and fifty yards in diame-
ter, nor more than four feet deep, and was overspread with
water liUes.

On our return we struck the tents, and, embarking in our
canoes on Lake Sachal, we steered for its southern end, where
we entered the river bearing the same name. We now made
very slow progress, owing to the sinuosity of the river and a
variety of other obstructions. Every few minutes we either
came in contact with drift-wood, or became entangled among
the branches of trees and bushes, covering the banks of the
river, and from which it was impossible to clear ourselves
otherwise than by cutting them down with our hatchets.

We lost some time also through a trick played us by two
Indians, who had been following us for some time in a small
canoe, and were anxious to pass us. Having come where the
river branched off, we were unable to decide which way our
course lay. We therefore inquired of the Indians in the
canoe, and they motioned to us to turn ofi" to the right ; we did
as they directed ; but after pulling for more than an hour, we
met other Indians, who assured us that we were steering the
wrong way, and offered to accompany us back to the main
stream, and put us on the proper course, an offer which we
very gladly accepted. We did not at first like the idea of
being thus outwitted by savages, but, after awhile, when all
the trouble of getting right again was over, we were willing to
admit that it was a capital joke, and perhaps had as many a
good laugh over it as the Indians themselves.

It was past 9 o'clock when we stopped to encamp, and still

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 245

we found that we were only six miles from where we entered
the river.

At an early hour the following day we were again under-
way. The drift-wood was still very plentiful, so much so,
that in one place the stream -v^as completely choked up by it,
and we were compelled to land and carry our canoes around
the place. On re-embarking, we used poles in lieu of paddles,
and found it a more successful mode of navigating the river.
About sunset we reached the town belonging to the Sachal
tribe of Indians, and we concluded to stop and spend the night
with them.

After supper, Mr. Eld proceeded to visit the chief of the
town. He received him kindly, and gave him considerable in-
formation respecting his own people and other Indian tribes.
Mr. E. was desirous that he should accompany us down the
river, but he declined, giving, as a reason, that we should soon
meet the Chenooks who were a " bad people," and he was
afraid to go among them. According to the chief's account,
the Sachals are not more than forty in number, and live chiefly
on the camass root and salmon, which fish they capture in
great quantities in the rivers Sachal and Chickelees. They
have tents similar to those of the Indians in Puget Sound, but
they appeared more cleanly and industrious than the tribes of
that region.

The country about this town afforded good pasturage, and
we observed numbers of horses grazing. At sunrise Ave re-
sumed our course. The river now had more breadth, and the
country on each side became quite interesting ; it presented
an undulating surface, and was -well wooded. In the afternoon
we were compelled to make two long portages, in order to pass
portions of the river which were filled with rapids and bars.
In making these portages we observed several deserted huts.

246 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

About 5 P. M., we were overtaken and passed by our old
friend, the Squaw Chief, and her husband. She informed us
that they were going to pay a visit to a sister, who was residing
on the banks of the Chapel River. Her canoe was large and
handsomely painted, and was paddled by five slaves, two of
whom were women. The following night was a pleasant one,
and Mr. Eld and I availed ourselves of it to obtain . observa-
tions for ascertaining our latitude and longitude.

The next day (25th) we arrived at the point where the
Sachal and the Chickelees unite, and we encamped on the
banks of the latter stream. The country, as far as we could
see, appeared to be well adapted for cultivation, and we
observed for the first time since leaving Sachal Lake, some
large stones or rocks.

About dusk we had a visit from some Chenooks, who had
encamped three or four miles further down the river. We
had attracted their attention, they said, by the smoke of our
fires, and at first supposed us to be some of their own people.
They were all young and rather good-looking, and much better
dressed than any Indians we had yet met on the route.

At early dawn the following day, Mr. Eld, with sergeant
Stearns, Brooks, and the interpreter, Joe, set out to examine
the Chalap, a branch of the Chickelees. They were absent
two days and a part of a third, during which time I remained
with the rest of the party at the same encampment. The
weather continued pleasant, and Mr. Brackenridge made
, several botanic excursions. He spoke favorably of the country,
and thought it well adapted to yield crops of corn and wheat.
In the course of the second day several Indian families visited
us, and we bought from them a quantity of smoked salmon and
some blackberries, which are found in great abundance in the
neighboring prairies. These Indians behaved very properly.

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 247

with the exception of two girls, who could not have been more
than fourteen 3^ears of age. That they were ladies of easy-
virtue, no one, I think, could deny, w4io had an opportunity of
witnessing their conduct.

Shortly after Mr. Eld took his departure, one of the men
who remained wdth me reported that he had just come in from
a short walk, and had found a place where there w^ere a num-
ber of Indian images. I repaired to the place with him ; it
was a small pine grove, situated not many yards distant from
the encampment. The images were six in number, cut out of
plank, and painted with a kind of red pigment. Some of the
figures had tw^o heads, one above the other, and one appeared
to be intended as a representation of the Sun. - We had met
with nothing of the kind before, and w^e could learn nothing
now on the subject from the Indians who visited us. There is
reason, however, to beheve that they had something to do with
their notions on religion. Mr. Eld found the Sachal to be a
small stream, and utterly impenetrable on account of the
bushes and a kind of long grass overgrowing it ; he was therefore
obliged to leave his canoe and take horses. His guide turned out
to be a grand scoundrel, and he caught him in the act of steal-
ing a blanket and some other property, belonging to the party.

On the first day out he met some Indians of the Squamish
tribe, who were anxious that he should encamp with them, but
as he saw enough of their character to convince him that they
were not to be trusted, he dechned the invitation, and went on
some distance further. He also kept strict guard during the
night. He passed over some flats, but, generally speaking,
his route lay through a rough, hilly country, thickly covered
with pine, several of which he measured and found to be up-
wards of two hundred feet in height, and from twelve to
eighteen in circumference.

2ld FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

Cn Mr. Eld's return to the camp, the ^vhole party again
embarked, and steered down the Chickelees. After a pull of
a few miles, the banks of the river on both sides became higher
and so steep as to render it quite difficult to land. The 'Hog"
was thrown frequently to ascertain the strength of the current,
which was found to be one-eighth of a mile per hour. We
met this day only two Indians. They were Chickelees ; yet,
when the interpreter asked them some questions in their
tongue, respecting the navigation of the river further down,
they pretended not to understand him, and their whole bearing
went to show that they were not kindly disposed toward us.

We encamped this day on the left bank of the river, and
could hear very distinctly the sound of breakers, a circum-
stance which convinced us that we must be near the sea-coast.

At 9 A. M. the following morning, we resumed our course
down the river. For two or three miles the channel w^as
nearly of the same breadth as it was on the preceding day,
but after that it became several hundred feet wider. The
country, as far as the eye could see, varied in character — that
on the left bank was low, with only here and there a tree —
that on the right bank, high and "well W'Ooded.

At length, at 9.30 A. M. we made our entrance into Grey's
Harbor. It had been our intention to encamp on the south-
eastern shore, that being near the scene of our operations ;
but the wind, sea, and tide, all three being against us, it was
impossible to make any progress. Indeed, my own canoe came
very near swamping, several times. We therefore bore away
for the southwest, or lee shore, where we finally succeeded in
effecting a landing, but found it an exceedingly uncomfortable
position. It was an extensive bed of brush, roots, and half-
decayed logs, that had been thrown up by the tides. Not-
withstanding this, we would have been compelled to rero.ain

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 249

there, that night at ..least, had it not been for the Chief Woman
I have before so often mentioned. Knowing all the while
which way we were bound, she had for some days past been
looking out for us, and now that she beheld us in this pitiable
situation, she hastened to our assistance. '' I come," said
she, '^ expressly to convey you to the opposite shore, where
you will find a suitable place for encampment, and also be less
exposed to the wind." We, of course, accepted the offer,
and I at once transferred all my things to her canoe, and Mr.
Eld did the same with a portion of his baggage ; with this
reinforcement, and partly by keeping before the sea, we made
very good weather, and at last reached the opposite shore,
where we found quite a large encampment of Chickelee
Indians.

So soon as the tents were erected, Mr. Eld and myself
went among the Indians, for the express purpose of nego-
tiating for a canoe, to take the party around to the Columbia
River. After going about some time, I found an Indian, who
said that he had a large canoe, which he would sell me, and
take his pay at Fort George, as he wanted to be i^aid in blan-
kets, an article which we had not with us. I went with him
to examine it ; it was sufficiently capacious, and nearly new,
and I told him that he might consider the bargain closed, and
I proceeded to give directions about having the canoe launched.
It had hardly reached the water, however, when he told the
interpreter to say that he was not satisfied with my terms,
and the canoe could not be taken away unless I would pay for
it on the spot. The reason why I could not pay down, was
again stated to him, but to no purpose ; and as Mr. Eld had
been equally unsuccessful in his negotiations, we concluded to
let the matter drop for that day, and return to our encamp-
ment. No one who has not had dealings with these people.

'250 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

can form any idea of the degree of patience it requires, to
get along with them ; they are as changeable as children, and
the word " honor" seems not to be in their vocabulary.

After breakfast, next day, I went again to the Indian en-
campment, to see about purchasing a canoe, and succeeded,
finally, in procuring one from a Chief. I likewise succeeded
in engaging six men, who promised to remain with us until we
reached Astoria. And to make them still more contented, I
gave them leave to take their wives with them.

On returning to the camp, I proceeded to get my instru-
ments, and then went in search of Mr. Eld, who, I under-
stood, had commenced operations at the opposite side of the
harbor. Not being able, however, to find him, I went on sur-
veying alone ; at length I saw a canoe at a distance, which I
supposed to be his. Accordingly, I at once put up the instru-
ments, and directed the Indians to pull for the canoe ; instead
of doing this, however, they commenced complaining, and
finally pulled in for the camp. Here they disembarked, and
declared that they would not remain in our employ another
minute, if I did not give them some powder and tobacco, which
I positively refused to do. The women now commenced to
pack up their things, and carry them towards the canoe, a
circumstance which induced me to believe that the party
intended to take the canoa, and return to their encampment.
I therefore directed sergeant Stearns to seize the mens' mus-
kets, and put them in one of the tents. This the sergeant
did, but the moment we turned our backs to the tents, one of
the Indians drew his knife, rushed into them, and brought out
the guns, one of which he handed to a woman. After a short
struggle, we succeeded in retaking the muskets, upon which
an Indian, who acted as spokesman to the party, came up, and
said that they intended to adhere strictly to the bargain which

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 251

they had made Tvith me in the morning, and were ready to go
to work at any moment I thought proper. I told them it was
my wish, they should go forthwith ; the order was obeyed,
and I directed them to pull for the plaee, where I thought I
had seen Mr. Eld. The canoe, however, had not proceeded
more than two hunired yards, when they began to raise new
objections — one complained of being sick, another that he was
very hungry, and a third said that he had a sister, who was
unwell, and he must go and see her before he could go any
further. I reminded them of their promises, and even offered
to make them a present, if they would go on, but to no pur-
pose. They ran down to their encampment, and when abreast
of it, stood in. On reaching the beach, they landed, and then
hauled up the canoe, and I expected nothing less, than being
told that I was to consider myself their prisoner. Such, how-
ever, was not the case ; they said nothing about my remaining
with them ; and when I remarked that I wished to return to
our camp, they even furnished me with a small canoe, to ferry
me over the stream, which separated the two encampments.

The following day, the owners of the muskets came to the
camp, and begged that they might be returned to them, and
we finally yielded to their wishes. Owing partly to these
troubles with the Indians, and partly to bad weather, we had
made but little progress in the survey of the harbor as yet.
Some days it stormed so furiously, that we could not venture
out at all.

On the 6th of August, we shifted our camp about six miles
toward the Capes. After staying here a few days we selected
another place at the South Head. Our greatest difficulty now
was the want of provisions. All our stores had been exhausted,
and for some days past we had been living on dead fish we
picked up on the beach, and some cammass root which we had

252 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

bought from the Indians. This state of things lasted until the
13th of August, -when Lieutenant De Haven "who had heec
sent by Captain Wilkes to afford us relief, arrived vith a
suppl}^ of provisions. This enabled us to go on our usual ration,
and in a few days we all regained our strength, and were able
to proceed with our surveying duties.

From Mr. De Haven we learned for the first time the loss
of the " Peacock" on the bar off the mouth of the Columbia
River.

On the 2-lth the survey was completed, and we set out for
Astoria, where the Squadron was now lying.

The soil in the vicinity of Grey's Harbor is of an inferior
quality, and the harbor itself seems to offer but few facilities
for commercial purposes. The channel is narrow, the width
being from one-half to two-thirds of a mile, with dangerous
breakers on both sides. The depth of water is from five to
seven fathoms. The space after entering is extensive, but the
greatest part of it is filled up with mud flats which are bare at
low water, and confine the harbor for the anchorage of vessels
to a few hundred yards. The River Chickelees before enter-
ing into the harbor, increases in width some six or seven hun-
dred feet and is navigable for vessels drawing ten or twelve
feet of water for several miles above its mouth.

Fogs prevail in the summer season, and some days during
our stay we found them so dense as to render it impossible for
us to proceed with our surveying duties.

The tides are irregular and influenced by the winds ; the
time of high water at change and full was found to be 11
hours 25 minutes.

The Indians, who inhabit the shores of the harbor, call them-
selves Chickelees, and their number is about two hundred ;
they construct their huts after the manner of the Sqnamish

t

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMiJIA RIVER. 2;')5

tribe, and, like them, live principally by fishing. We found
them well supplied with blankets, muskets and knives. They
are excessively fond of tobacco, and invariably swallow the
smoke, and oftentimes retain it so long in the stomach as to
throw them into convulsions. They enjoy high reputation as
warriors, for which reason they are much dreaded by their
neighbors, the Sachals and Sachaps, who are of a more peace-
able character. Their amusements are similar to those of the
tribes residing about Nisqually.

On the day of our departure (24th) for Astoria, the surf ran
very high, and our Indians* instead of paddling the canoes
preferred tracking them along the beach inside of the surf.
This is the mode they always adopt when they are journeying
along the coast, to prevent accidents from the surf, of which
they have great dread. We made very good progress, and
at sunset arrived within fifteen miles of Shoal-Water Bay.
Near this day's encampment we found a Chickelees Chief who
sold us another canoe, and who promised to act as our guide
around to the Columbia.

About noon next day, we reached Shoal- Water Bay. Here,
by reason of not understanding the guide, Mr. Eld and my-
self separated, he pursuing the course leading to the eastern
Portage, I the one leading to the western, and did not see each
other again until we arrived on board the " Flying Fish."
The western Portage is the one preferred by the Indians ; it
is between four and five miles long, and lays through a flat
marshy country.

On the 2Tth, the schooner got under-way and landed us at
Astoria, where we received written orders from Captain
Wilkes, requiring us to join him at Vancouver.

• The day previous to our leaving Grey's Harbor, Mr. Eld succeeded in engaging
■Ix Indians who were to take us as far as Shoal- Water Bay.

256 FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER.

At Astoria, we had tlie pleasure of meeting the " Peacock's"
officers and crew, who appeared to be in good health and fine
spirits, and all spoke of the kind treatment they had received
from Mr. Birnie, the agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at
Astoria, and I take this occasion to say, that his treatment to
Mr. Eld and myself also, was such as to merit our warmest
thanks. From what I could learn, both from officers and
crew, I inferred, that the loss of the " Peacock" was an una-
voidable occurrence, and that through the whole disaster. Cap-
tain Hudson's behavior had been that of a good officer and
an able seaman.

During our stay at Astoria I also had the pleasure of be-
coming acquainted with an American missionary and his lady,
Mr. and Mrs. Smith. They had arrived in the country two
years previous with a party which crossed the Rocky Moun-
tains, and, for the last fifteen months, had been stationed at
a place called Kamia. But the Indians having left there, and
the climate not agreeing with Mrs. Smith's health, they had"
determined to leave the country and proceed to the Sandwich
Islands ; they expected to sail in a few days for Oahoo. They
both gave very unfavorable accounts of the Indians among
wdiom they had been residing, and deemed it quite useless to
send missionaries among them.

Astoria is situated on the south bank of the Columbia
River, and distant about fifteen miles from Cape Disappoint-
ment. The location is a beautiful one ; it forms the crest of
a hill. which rises some hundred feet above the level of the
river, and in pleasant weather, the waters of the Pacific
Ocean, Point Ellice, Tongue Point, Katolamet Range, with
many other striking objects, are in sight.

As for the town, it is a sorry one. Indeed, ever since the
period fixed on by the Hudson's Bay Company to make Van-

FROM NISQUALLY TO COLUMBIA RIVER. 2u7

couver the principal trading port, Astoria has been suffered
to decline ; and, now, all it can boast of is some half-dozen log
houses, and as many shades, "\yhich, of course, is a great falling
off, if the accounts of its former size and prosperity be true.

There are many Indians hanging round Astoria ; most of
them belong to the Clatsop tribe, "whose principal tovvn is
situated near Point Adams. They have an American mis-
sionary among them, by the nam.e of Frost, and I should judge
they had need for many more, for certainly they are the most
degraded set of beings we have seen since our arrival in the
country. They will sell anything they have for rum, and while
it lasts they are never sober ; they are likewise much addicted
to lying and stealing. It is also said of them that they are very
belligerent ; there is scarcely a tribe on the coast with which
they are on friendly .terms. A white man, however, can
travel through any part of their territory quite as safely as he
can in any other, for the Hudson's Bay Company are sure to
punish all murders, or robberies, with death ; and the severity,
as well as the certainty of the punishment, is sufficient to pre-
vent the commission of such crimes more frequently than they
occur in civilized countries. About a year since, a white man
was murdered for his property by a slave belonging to a Chief;
the instant the murder was made \:nown to the Company, the
slave was seized, and hung in presence of all the tribe.

We performed our jaunt to Vancouver in a flat-'^ottomed
barge, furnished by Mr. Birnie. These boats are, from their
light draft of w^ater, exceedingly well adapted for the naviga-
tion of the river. They are used by the Company to carry
freight up and down the river, and are capable of carryiug
large cargoes, and when well-manned can make quite as much
headway as a canoe.

The breadth of the river gradually diminishes as you ap-

FROM ASTORIA TO VANCOUVER.

proacli Vancouver, and at the lowest ebb the channel is deep
enough for vessels drawing fourteen feet water. The current
does not appear to be very strong, and the water as it floAvs
past looks turbid, but when it is taken up, it is perfectly clear.
The country on both sides rises gradually to the height of
some thousand feet, and is w^ell timbered. We saw on both
banks many Indian villages, some of which were at the time
without inhabitants. This last feature was attributed to the
ravages of the fever and ague, and the appearance of the bury-
ing-grounds in the vicinity served to confirm the statement ;
they were large, and thickly studded with graves. The first
case of the kind occurred in the year 1830, when an European
vessel, commanded by Captain Dominis, was Ij'ing at anchor
in the river, and the Indians have always believed that he
brought the disease among them. In the opinion of the phy-
sicians of the Hudson's Bay Company, the disease would not
prove so fatal if they would adopt the European mode of
treating it, but this they will not do ; they prefer their own
treatment, which consists in taking a series of cold baths.
The manner of disposing of the dead does not appear to be the
same at all the burial grounds. In some, the cofiins (which
were canoes planked over) rested on limbs of trees, while in
others they stand in an upright position, with about one-third
of their length buried in the ground. The coffins are all
painted red, the favorite color, and have hung around them
mats, baskets, bows and arrows ; in short, everything supposed
to be of use to the departed on their journey to the world of
Spirits and future Hunting Grounds.

On the third day out, about 4 P. M., we passed the brig
"Porpoise," employed in surveying the nver, and in about
half an hour more we landed at Vancouver, and reported
to Captain Wilkes, who congratulated us upon our safe

LIFE AT VANCOUVER. 259

return, and also complimented us upon the result of our
labors.

On leaving Captain W. we took a walk in and about tlie
famous fort, and then repaired on board the '' Porpoise."

September 1st. This morning I received other orders,
namely, to be ready to join the Overland Expedition to Cali-
fornia, commanded by Lieutenant Emmons. It is already or-
ganized and encamped on the banks of the Willamette River,
and will, I am informed, consist, besides mj^self, of the follow-
ing individuals : — Lieutenant Emmons, Mr. Eld, Dr. Whittle ;
Mr. Peale, naturalist ; Mr. Rich, botanist ; Mr. Dana, geolo-
gist; Mr. A. T. Agate, artist; Mr. Brackenridge, assistant-
botanist ; sergeant Stearns ; corporal Hughes ; privates Smith
and Marsh ; seamen Sutton, Doughty, Merza, Walthan ;
Batist Guardipee, guide.

I understand the object of the Expedition originally was to
explore the country as far as the Shaste Mountains, and then
return to Vancouver by a different route.

Mr. Emmons is here attending to the procuring of stores,
and will return to the camp to-morrow.

The following sketch of a life at Vancouver, by one who
spent some weeks there, may be interesting : —

" Fort Vancouver is the depot at which are brought the furs
collected west of the Rocky Mountains, and from which they
are shipped to England, and also the place at which all the
goods for the trade are landed, and from which they are
distributed to the various posts of that territory by vessels,
batteaux, or pack-animals, as the various routes permit. It
was established by Governor Simpson in 1824, as the great
centre of all commercial operations in Oregon ; is situated in a
beautiful plain on the north bank of the Columbia, ninety
miles from the sea, and stands 400 yards from the water's

260 LIFE AT VANCOUVER.

side. Tlie noble river before it, is 1670 yards wide, and from
five to seven fathoms in depth. The whole surrounding coun-
try is covered with forests of pine, cedar, fir, &c., interspersed
here and there with small open spots, all overlooked by the
vast snowy pyramids of the President's Range, 35 miles in
the east.

" The fort itself, is an oblong square, 250 yards in length,
by 150 in breadth, inclosed by pickets, twenty feet in height.
The area within is divided into two courts, around which are
arranged thirty-five wooden buildings, used as officers' dwell-
ings, lodging apartments for clerks, store-houses for furs,
goods and grains, and as workshops for carpenters, black-
smiths, coopers, turners, wheelwrights, &c. The building near
the rear gate, is occupied as a school-house ; and a brick
structure as a powder magazine.

" Six hundred yards below the fort, and on the bank of the
river, is a village of fifty-three log houses ; in these live the
Company's servants ; among them is a Hospital, in which those
of them who become diseased, are humanely treated. Back
and a little east of the fort, is a barn, containing a mammoth
threshing-machine, and near this are a number of long sheds,
used for storing grain in the sheaf. And behold the Vancou-
rer farm, stretching up and down the river, three thousand
acres, fenced into beautiful fields, sprinkled with dairy-houses
and herdsmen's and shepherd's cottages! A busy place is
this. The farmer on horseback at break of day, summons
one hundred half-breeds and Iriquois Indians from their cabins
to the fields; tvfenty or thirty ploughs tear open the gene-
rous soil ; the sowers follow with their seed, and pressing on
them, come a dozen harrows to cover it. And thus thirty or
forty acres are planted in a day, till the immense farm is
under crop. The season passes on, teeming with daily in-

LIFE AT VANCOUVER. 261

dustry, until the harvest waves on all these fields. And then
sickle and hoe glisten in tireless activity, to gather in the rich
reward of this toil — the food of seven hundred people at this
post, and of thousands more at the posts on the deserts in the
east and north. The saw-mill, too, is a scene of constant toil ;
thirty or forty Sandwich Islanders are felling the pines, and
dragging them to the mill; sets of hands are playing two
gangs of saws by night and day ; three thousand feet of lum-
ber per day — 900,000 feet per annum — constantly being
shipped to foreign ports. The grist-mill is not idle ; it must
furnish bread-stuffs for the posts and the Russian market
in the northwest ; and its deep music is heard daily and
nightly, half the year.

" But we Yfill enter the fort. The blacksmith is repairing
ploughshares, harrow-teeth, chains, and mill-irons ; the tin-
man is making cups for the Indians, and camp-kettles, &c. ;
the wheelwright is making wagons, and the wood part of
plough sand harrows ; the carpenter is repairing houses and
building new ones ; the cooper is making barrels, for pickling
salmon and packing furs ; the clerks are posting books and
preparing the annual returns to the board in London ; the
salesmen are receiving beaver, and dealing out goods. But,
hear the voices of those children from the school-house ! they
are the half-breed offspring of the gentlemen and servants of
the Company, educated at the Company's expense, prepara
tory to being apprenticed to trades in Canada ; they learn the
English language, writing, arithmetic, and geography. The
gardener, too, is singing out his honest satisfaction, as he sur-
veys from the north gate, ten acres of apple-trees, laden
with fruit, his bowers of grape-vines, his beds of vegetables,
and flowers. The bell rings for dinner ; we will see the ' hall,'
and its convivialities.

2G2 LIFE AT VANCOUVER.

" The dining-hall is a spacious room, on the second floor,
ceiled with pine above and at the sides. In the southwest
corner of it, is a large close stove sending out sufl&cient caloric
to make it comfortable.

"At the end of a table, twenty feet in length, stands Gov-
ernor McLaughlin, directing guests and gentlemen from neigh-
boring posts, to their places ; and chief- traders, traders, the
physician, clerks, and the farmers, slide respectfully to their
places, at distances from the Governor, corresponding to the
dignity of their rank in the service ; thanks are given to God,
11 nd all are seated. Roast beef and pork, boiled mutton,
baked salmon, boiled ham, beets, carrots, turnips, cabbage
and potatoes, and wheaten bread, are tastefully distributed
over the table, among a dinner-set of elegant Queen's ware,
burnished with glittering glasses, and ^decanters of various
colored Italian wines. Course after course goes round, and
the Governor fills to his guests and friends, and each gentle-
man in turn vies with him, in diffusing around the board, a
most generous allowance of viands, wines, and warm fellow-
feeling. The cloth and wines are removed together, cigars
are lighted, and a strolling smoke about the premises, en-
livened by a courteous discussion of some mooted point of
natural history, or politics, closes the ceremonies of the din-
ner-hour at Fort Vancouver. These are some of the inci-
dents of life at Vancouver."

i:arly history of Oregon. 263

CHAPTER XX.

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.

" Take the wings
Of morning, and the Barcan desert pierce,
0 r lose thyself in the continuous woods
Where rolls the Oregon, and hears no sound
Save his own dashings."

Northwestern America is divided from the other por-
tions of the Continent, by the Rocky Mountains, which extend
throughout its entire length, in a north-westerly direction, in
continuation of the Mexican Andes, to the shores of the
Arctic Ocean. Between this great chain of mountains and
the Pacific Ocean, a most ample territory extends, which may
he regarded as divided into three great districts. The most
southerly of these, of which the northern boundary line was
drawn along the parallel of 42°, by the Treaty of Washing-
ton, in 1819, belong to Mexico. The most northerly, com-
mencing at Behring's Straits, and of which the extreme
southern limit was fixed at the southernmost point of Prince
of Wales Island, in the parallel of 54° 40' north, by treaties
concluded between Russia and the United States of America,
in 1824, and between Russia and Great Britain, in 1825,
forms a part of the dominions of Russia ; whilst the interme-
diate country is not as yet under the sovereignty of any power.

To this intermediate territory, different names have been
assigned. To the portion of the coast, between the parallels

-*>i EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.

of 43° and 48°, the British have applied the name of New
Albion. Since the expedition of Sii' Francis Drake, in 1578-
'80, and the British Government, in the instructions furnished
by the Lords of the Admiralty, in 1776, to Captain Cook,
directed him to proceed to the coast of New Albion, endea-
voring to fall in with it in the latitude of 45°.* At a later
period, Vancouver gave the name of New Georgia to the
coast between 50° and 54°, whilst to the entire country, north
of New Albion, between 48° and bQ° 30', from the Rocky
Mountains to the sea, British traders have given the name of
New Caledonia, ever since the Northwest Company formed an
establishment on the western side of the Rocky Mountains, in
1806. The Spanish government, on the other hand, in the
course of the negotiations with the British government, which
ensued upon the seizure of the British vessels in Nootka
Sound, and terminated in the Convention of the Escurial, in
1790, designated the entire territory as " the Coast of Cali-
fornia in the South Sea."

If we adopt the more extensive use of the term Oregonf

* See Cook's Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, 17S2.
t The authority for the use of the word Oregon, or Oregan, has not been clearly
ascertained, but the majority of writers agree in referring the introduction of the
name to Carver's Travels. Jonathan Carver, a native of Connecticut, set out from
Boston, in 1766, soon after the transfer of Canada to Great Britain, on an expedition
to the regions of the Upper Mississippi, with the ultimate purpose of ascertaining the
breadth of that vast Continent, which extends from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean,
'n its broadest part, between 45° and 46° of north latitude. Carver did not succeed in
penetrating to the Pacific Ocean, but he first made known, or at least established a
oelief in the existence of a great river, termed, apparently, by the Indian nations in
the interior, Oregon, or Oregan, the source of which, he placed not far from the
head waters of the river IMissouri, "on the other side of the summit of the lands
that divide the waters, which run into the Gulf of Mexico, from those which fall
into the Pacific Ocean." He was led to infer from the account of the natives, that
this " Great River of the West" emptied itself near the Straits of Anian, although
it may be observed, that the situation of the so called Straits of Arian themselves,
were not at this time accurately fixed. Carver, however, was misled in this latter
respect, but the description of the locality, where he placed the source of the

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 265

territoiy, as applied to the entire country, intermediate be-
tween the dominions of Russia and Mexico, respective!}^ — its
boundaries will be the Rocky Mountains on the east, the
Pacific Ocean on the west, the parallel of 54° 40' north lati-
tude on the north, and that of 42° north latitude on the south.
The entire superficies would thus amount to 501,600 geogra-
phical square miles. If, on the other hand, we accept the
north-western limit, which Mr. Greenhow has marked out fo**
'' the Country of the Columbia," namely, the range of moun-
tains which stretches north-eastward, from the eastern extre-
mity of the Straits of Fuca, about four hundred miles, to the
Rocky Mountains; separating the waters of the Cr*'*.;^bia
from those of Frazer's River, it will include not less than
400,000 square miles in superficial extent, which is nearly
half of all the States of the Federal Union.

Such are the geographical hmits of the Oregon Territory, in
its widest and in its narrowest extent. The Indian hunter
roamed throughout it, undisturbed by civilized man, till near
the conclusion of the last century, when Captain James King,
on his return from the expedition, which proved so fatal to
Captain Cook, made known the high prices which the fur of
the sea-otter commanded, in the markets of China, and,
thereby attracted the attention of Europeans to it. The en-
terprise of British merchants was in consequence of Captain
King's suggestion, directed to the opening of the Fur trade,

Oregon, seems to identify it either with the Flatbow, or with the Flathead, or
"lark's River, each of which streams, after pursuing a north-western course, from
the base of the Rocky Mountains, unites with a great river, coming from the
north, which ultimately empties itself into the Pacific Ocean, in latitude 46° 18' O'ft/.
The name of Oregon has consequently been perpetuated in this main river, as
being really the " Great River of the West," and by this name it is best known
in Europe ; but in the United States, it is more frequently spoken of as the
Columbia River, from the name of the American vessel, the "Columbia," which
really first discovered it in l':92, and anchored off Astoria, distant about ten miles •
from the raouth of the rivei

^C>^ EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.

beiween the native hunters, along the northwest coast of
America, and the Chinese, as early as 1786. The attempt
of the Spaniards to suppress this trade, by the seizure of the
vessels engaged in it, in 1789, led to the dispute between the
Crowns of Spain and Great Britain, in respect to the claim to
exclusive sovereignty, asserted by the former power over the
Port of Nootka and the adjacent latitudes, which was brought
to a close by the Convention of the Escurial, in 1790.

The European merchants, however, who engaged in this
lucrative branch of commerce, confined their visits to stations
on the coasts, where the natives brought from the interior the
produce of their hunting expeditions ; and even respecting
the coast itself, very little accurate information was possessed
by Europeans before Vancouver's survey. Vancouver, as is
well known, was dispatched in 1791 by the British Govern-
ment to superintend, on the part of Great Britain, the execu-
tion of the Convention of the Escurial, and he was at the
same time instructed to survey the coast from 35° to 60°, with
a view to ascertain in w^hat parts civilized nations had made
settlements, and likewise to determine whether or not any
effective water- communication, available for commercial pur-
poses, existed in those parts between the Atlantic and Pacific
Oceans. A Spanish Expedition, under Galiano and Valdes,
was engaged about the same time upon the same object; so
that from this period, namely, the concluding decade of the
last century, the coast of Oregon may be considered to have
been sufiiciently well known.

The interior, however, of the country had remained hitherto
unexplored, and no white man seems ever to have crossed the
Rocky Mountains prior to Alexander Mackenzie in 1793.
Having ascended the Unjigah, or Peace River, from the At-
habaska I^ake on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains to

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 267

one of its sources in 54° 24' 00", Mackenzie embarked upon
a river flowing from the western base of the mountains,
called by the natives Tacoutche Tesse. This was generally
supposed to be the northernmost branch of the Columbia
River, till it was traced in 1812 to the Gulf of Georgia, where
it empties itself in 49° latitude, and was henceforth named
Frazer's River. Mackenzie having descended this river for
about 250 miles, struck across the country westward, and
reached the sea in 52° 20' 00", at an inlet which had been
surveyed a short time before by Vancouver, and had been
named by him Cascade Canal. This was the first expedition
of civilized men through the country west of the Rocky Moun-
tains. It did not lead to any immediate result in the way of
settlement, though it paved the way by contributing, in con-
junction with Vancouver's survey, to confirm the conclusion at
which Captain Cook had arrived, that the American continent
extended in an uninterrupted line north-westward to Behring's
Straits.

The result of Mackenzie's discoveries was to open a wide
field to the westward for the enterprise of British merchants
engaged in the fur-trade ; and thus we find a settlement in
this extensive district made not long after the publication of
his voyage, by the agents of the Northwest Company. This
[Treat association had been growing up since 1784, upon the
wreck of the French-Canadian fur-trade, and gradually ab-
sorbed into itself all the minor companies. It did not, how-
ever, obtain its complete organization till 1805, when it soon
became a most formidable rival to the Hudson's Bay Company,
which had been chartered as early as 1670, and had all but suc-
ceeded in monopolizing the entire fur-trade of North America,
after the transfer of Canada to Great Britain. The Hudson's
Bay Company, with the characteristic security of a chartered

268 EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.

compan}^, had confined their posts to the shores of the ample
territory which had been granted to them by the Charter of
Charles 11. , and left the task of procuring furs to the enter-
prise of the native hunters. The practice of the hunters was
to suspend their chase during the summer months, when the
fur is of inferior quality and the animals rear their young, and
to descend by the lakes and rivers of the interior to the estab-
lished marts of the Company, with the produce of the past
winter's campaign. The Northwest Company adopted a
totally different system. They dispatched their servants into
the very recesses of the wilderness to bargain with the native
hunters at their homes. They established " wintering part-
ners" in the interior of the country to superintend the inter-
course with the various tribes of Indians, and employed at one
time not fewer than two thousand voyageurs, or boatmen.
The natives being thus no longer called away from their pur-
suit of the beaver and other animals, by the necessity of
resorting as heretofore to the factories of the Hudson's Bay
Company, continued on their hunting-grounds during the
whole year, and were tempted to kill the cub and full-grown
animal alike, and thus to anticipate the supply of future years.
As the nearer hunting-grounds became exhausted, the North-
west Company advanced their stations westwardly into regions
previously unexplored, and in 1806 they pushed forward a
post across the Rocky Mountains, through the passage where
the Peace River descends through a deep chasm in the chain,
a,nd formed a trading establishment on a lake now called
Frazer's Lake, situated in 54° north latitude. It is from this
period, according to Mr. Harnon, who was a partner in the com-
pany, and superintendent of its trade on the wertern side of the
Rocky Mountains, that the name of New Caledonia had been
used to designate the northern portion of the Oregon Territory.

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 2G9

The United States of America had in the meantime not
remained inattentive to their own future commercial interests
in this quarter, as they had dispatched from the southern side
an exploring party across the Rocky Mountains almost imme-
diately after their purchase of Lousiana in 1803. On this oc-
casion Mr. Jefferson, then President of the United States, com-
missioned Captains Lewis and Clarke " to explore the River
Missouri and its principal branches to their sources, and then
to seek and trace to its termination in the Pacific, some
stream, whether the Columbia, the Oregon, the Colorado, or
any other which might offer the most direct and practicable
water-communication across the continent for the purpose of
commerce." The party succeeded in passing the Rocky
Mountains towards the end of September, in 1805, and after
following, by the advice of their native guides, the Kooskookee
River, which they reached in latitude 43° 34' 00", to its
junction with the principal southern tributary of the Great
River of the West, they gave the name of Lewis to this
tributary. Having in seven days afterwards reached the
main stream, they traced it down to the Pacific Ocean, where
it was found to empty itself in latitude 46° 18' 00" north.
They thus identified the Oregon, or Great River of the West
of Carver, with the river to whose outlet Captain Grey had
given the name of his vessel, the Columbia, in 1792, and
having passed the winter among the Clatsop Indians in an
encampment on the south side of the river, not very far from
its mouth, which they called Fort Clatsop, they commenced
with the approach of spring the ascent of the Columbia on
their return homeward. After reaching the Kooskookee, they
pursued a course eastward, till they arrived at a stream, to
which they gave the name of Clarke, as considering it to ^ the
upper part of the main river which they had previously ^led

270 EARLY HISTORY OF OREGC^.

Clarke at its confluence with the Lewis. Here they separated
at about the forty-seventh parallel of latitude. Captain Lewis
then struck across the country northward to the Rocky
Mountains, and crossed them so as to reach the head-waters
of the Maria River, which empties itself into the Missouri,
just below the Falls. Captain Clarke, on the other hand,
followed the Clarke River towards its source, in a southward
direction, and then crossed through a gap in the Rocky Moun-
tains, so as to descend the Yellow Stone River to the Missouri.
Both parties united once more on the banks of the Missouri,
and arrived in safety at St. Louis in September, 1806.

The reports of this Expedition seem to have first directed
the attention of traders in the United States to the hunting-
grounds of Oregon. The Missouri Fur Company was formed
in 1808, and Mr. Henry, one of its agents, established a
trading post on a branch of the Lewds River, the great southern
arm of the Columbia. The hostility, however, of the natives,
combined with the difficulty of procuring supplies, compelled
Mr. Henry to abandon it in 1810. The Pacific Fur Com-
pany was formed about this time at New York, with the object
of engaging in the fur commerce bet^veen China and the north-
Y/est Coast of America. The head of this association was
John Jacob Astor. He had already obtained a charter from
the Legislature of New York, in 1809, incorporating a Com-
pany, under the name of the American Fur Company, to
compete wdth the Mackinaw Company of Canada, within the
Atlantic States, of which he was himself the real representa-
tive, according to Mr. Washington Irving — his board of Di-
rectors being merely a nominal body. Mr. Astor engaged nine
partners in his scheme, of whom six were Scotchmen, who
had all been in the service of the Northwest Company, and
three were citizens q^ the United States.

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON. 271

Having at last arranged his plans, he dispatched in Septem-
ber, 1810, four of his partners, with twenty-seven subor-
dinate officers and servants, in the ship, '^ Tonquin," com-
manded by Jonathan Thorne, a lieutenant in the United
States Navy, to establish a settlement at the mouth of the
Columbia River. They arrived at their destination in March,
1811, and erected a fort and other necessary buildings on the
Bouth side of the river, about ten miles from the mouth, to
which the name of Astoria was given. The Tonquin proceeded
in June on a trading voyage to the northward, and was de-
stroyed, with her crew, by the Indians in the Bay of Clyoquot,
near the entrance of the Strait of Fuca.

In the following month of July, Mr. Thomson, the agent of
the Northwest Company, descended the northern branch of the
Columbia, and visited the settlement at the mouth of the Co-
lumbia. He was received with friendly hospitality by the
Superintendent of the Pacific Company, and shortly took his
departure again. Mr. Stuart, one of Mr. Aster's partners,
accompanied him up the river as far as its junction with the
Okinagan, where he remained during the winter, collecting
furs from the natives. The Factory at Astoria, in the mean-
time, was reinforced in January, 1812, by a further detach-
ment of persons in the service of the Pacific Fur Company,
who had set out overland early in 1811, and after suffering
extreme hardships, and losing several of their number, at last
made their way in separate parties to the mouth of the Colum-
bia. A third detachment was brought by the ship " Beaver''
in the following May. All the partners of the Company, ex-
clusive of Mr. Astor, had now been dispatched to the scene
of their future trading operations. Mr. Mackay was alone
wanting to their number ; he had unfortunately proceeded
northwards with Captain Thorne, in order to make arrange-

EARLY HISTORY OF OREGON.

ments with the Russians, and was involved in the common
fate of the crew of the " Tonquin."

The circumstances, however, of this ^ establishment under-
went a great change upon the declaration of war by the United
States against Great Britain, in 1812. Tidings of this event
reached the Factory in January, 1813, through Messrs. McTa-
vish and Laroque, partners of the Northwest Company, who
visited Astoria with a small detachment of persons in the em-
ployment of that Company, and opened negotiations for the
dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company, and the abandonment
of the establishment at Astoria. The Association was, in
consequence, dissolved in July, 1813, and on the 16th of
October following, an agreement was executed between Messrs.
McTavish and Mr. John Stuart, on the part of the Northwest
Company, and Messrs. McDougal, McKenzie, David Stuart,
and Clarke, on the part of the Pacific Company, by which all
the establishments, furs, and stock in hand of the late Pacific
Fur Company, were transferred to the Northwest Company,
at a given valuation, which produced, according to Mr.
Greenhow, a sum total of 58,000 dollars.

The bargain had hardly been concluded when the British
sloop-of-war, the " Racoon," under the command of Captain
Black, entered the Columbia River, with the express purpose
of destroying the settlement at Astoria ; but the establishment
had previously become the property of the Northwest Com-
pany, and was in the hands of their agents. All that remained
for Captain Black to perform was to hoist the British Flag
over the Factory, the name of which he 'changed to Fort
George. There have been no changes in the Territory since
t813, worthy of particular notice.

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

273

CHAPTER .XXI.

FROM VANCOUVER TO SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.

At 11 A. M., September 2d, Messrs. Eld, Dana, Brack-
enbridge and myself, embarked in a canoe paddled b}' four
Indians, to join the Expedition I have before spoken of. At
2, we reached the mouth of the Willamette River, which we
entered. It is here about 800 feet in breadth, and its banks
are low and uninteresting. After ascending a few miles we
met the Rev. Mr. Cone, who was on his way to Vancouver.
He spoke of our party encamped in the valley, and stated that
several of the scientific gentlemen were suffering from the at-
tacks of the ague. Mr. C. is connected with the Methodist
Mission in Oregon. At sunset we encamped near an oak
grove on the left bank of the river.

At an early hour the following morning, we resumed our
journey, and after pulling about eight miles, reached the
Klackamus, where we found five Americans building a schooner,
in which they intended to engage in the sea-otter trade. They
informed us that they had been in Oregon nearly a year, and
had crossed the Rocky Mountains. They did not speak fa-
vorably of the country, and stated, that they intended to leave
for California as soon as they could make a little money in
the fur business. The Willamette River is navigable at the
lowest stage of water as far as the Klackamus. After ascend-
ing another three miles, we arrived at the Falls. As we ap-
proached these, the breadth of the river rapidly diminished,

271 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

and the ^Yate^ slioalecl ; tlie banks were also higlier and more
precipitious. There is a mission station here under the charge
of Mr. Waller. The Hudson's Bay Company have likewise
a trading post near by, and pack a great many salmon, which
the Indians catch in large quantities. It is said to be the best
salmon fishery on the river. The Falls are betAveen twenty
and thirty feet in height, and, when the country becomes
settled, they will be invaluable for their water-power. An
American by the name of Moore, told us, that the western
side of the Falls had become his property, he having bought
the land on that side of the river from an Indian chief.

Our progress now was much slower than before, owing to
the strength of the current, and we crossed and re-crossed the
river frequently in order to take advantage of the eddies.
This part of the Willamette is considered very dangerous
when the v>^ater is high, and the Indians, in passing, invariably
make to it a propitiatory ofiering of some of their food, that
they may have a safe passage.

The night was clear and pleasant, and we continued to pull
until we reached Champooing village, which was as far as Mr.
Eld and myself intended to proceed by water.

On the follovfing morning, we breakfasted by invitation,
with Mr. McKoy, one of the most noted individuals in this
part of the country. Among the trappers, he is the hero of
many a tale, and he entertained us during our stay with an ac-
count of several of his adventures with the Indians, which
certainly showed him to be a man of great nerve and shrewd-
ness. He is about forty years of age, tall, and straight, and
has a countenance expressive of great firmness and daring of
character. His crops had just been gathered, and he in-
formed us that the average yield of the wheat would be twenty-
five bushels to the acre. His house stands on the margin of

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 275

a small stream, and an?^Yers both for a dwelling and a grist-
mill.

When breakfast was over, our friend furnished us -with
horses, and we rode on in the direction of the encampment.
We passed many farms of from thirty to one hundred acres,
belonging to Canadians who had been in the service of the
Hudson's Bay Company ; they liked the country, and appeared
very comfortable and thriving. • We saw a large mumber of
cattle, horses, and sheep, grazing in the surrounding fields.
From 12 to 1 P.M., we halted, to'partake of dinner and rest the
horses ; another short ride brought us to the American settle-
ment. There were many things here to remind us of home ;
among others, a good road, w^ell inclosed fields, a blacksmith-
shop, and a school-house. This is the largest and most pros-
perous settlement in all Oregon. It is situated on the banks
of the Willamette River, on a fertile plain of many miles in
extent ; the soil is adapted to the growth of wheat, rye, and
Irish potatoes ; horned cattle and sheep also, thrive here admi-
rably. The climate of this portion of Oregon is so mild that
stock is never kept up during the winter months, and barns are
only used for storing the grain. The Methodists have a Mis-
sion Station here, and some of the best lands are owned by it.
Near the settlement we forded the river, and shortly after
we arrived at the encampment of our party. We were glad
to find that the sick alluded to by Mr. Cone, had recovered,
and in the course of a day or two we should be able to set
out on our intended journey.

On Sunday, the Rev. Mr. Leslie performed Divine Service
at his residence, on the opposite side of the river, and as many
of our officers attended as could be spared ; Mr. Leslie is a
member of the Methodist Mission established in the valley,
and enjoys better reputation among the settlers than most of

276 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

the other mission gentlemen. He is, they say, the only Mis-
sionary among them -^'ho pays any attention to his proper du-
ties ; this statement, if we may judge the tree by its fruit,
is not erroneous. Most of these gentleman have turned their
attention to farming, and think more about their crops than
they do of the great cause -which they have been sent out to
advance ; the number of Indian children to whom they give
instruction does not exceed twenty, and the adult Indians
living about the settlement, are entirely neglected.

On the 8th of September we bade adieu to the banks of the
Willamette. A complete list of the names of the persons
who now formed the party, will be found in the Appendix.

At first we had our share of drawbacks ; a thousand things
were now to be done, which had not been thought of before,
nor could they have been foreseen. Many of the pack-saddles
were found to be either too large or too small ; the strength of a
number of the horses had been overrated, and the packs which
it had been intended they should carry, had in consequence to
be reduced or exchanged for others which were lighter. Then
there was a list to be taken of all the packs and the animals
which belonged to the government, and those which did not.
All this produced delay and confusion for a time, but, when
finally all was right, and the expedition made a start, it
moved on at a fine rate, and by 4 o'clock P. M. we reached
Mr. Turner's place, where we encamped for the night.

Mr. Turner supports himself by supplying the Willamette
settlement with beef semi-weekly, and he made us a present
of a fine bullock. He is a native of New York, but has been
thirteen years in Oregon ; has an Indian woman to keep house
for him, and seems perfectly contented. He has been to
California several times, and in 1834 he formed one of a
party of sixteen settlers, who set out to go there to purchase

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 277

cattle, but they were attacked by the Indians during the night,
near the base of the Shaste Mountains, and ten of his com-
panions were massacred. Two of the party were killed im-
mediately. Turner w^as seated by the fire when the savages
rushed into the camp ; he snatched up a brand and defended
himself with it until his Indian woman brought him his rifle,
with which he killed four. His surviving companions had
now seized their fire-arms, and dealt such destruction among
the Indians that they at last retreated, and allowed Turner
and his five companions to make good their retreat to the
settlement.

We were detained at Turner's place all the next day, on
account of two of the horses having got astray. In the after-
noon I took a stroll, and fell in with an encampment of Cali-
poya Indians. There were altogether five families of them,
and each had its own fire and tent. They were miserably
clad, and their habitations were swarming with vermin. The
surrounding country was perfectly level, and produced luxu-
riant grasses and some trees.

On the 10th we left Mr. Turner's place, and directed our
steps to the southward and eastward. We crossed during
this day several small streams, which are tributary to the
Willamette. The country continued level, but all the vegeta-
tion, except the trees, had been destroyed by fire, said to have
been kindled by the Prairie Indians, for the purpose of pro-
curing a certain species of root, which forms a principal part
of their food. We spent the night on the banks of a creek,
named Igneas.

At 9 o'clock the following day we resumed our march, and
shortly after reached Guardepii Lake, which is not more than
a mile in circumference. In the course of the afternoon we
crossed Lumtumbuff* River, which is a branch of the Willa-

278 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

mette. It is a deep and turbid stream, but is fordable at
certain points.

During the 13th it -^'as very foggy, and we had much diffi-
culty in finding the animals. Owing to this circumstance we
advanced this day only two miles on our course. At this
encampment we obtained observations, both on the dip and in-
tensity needles. About dusk some Calipoya Indians paid us
a visit ; they proved to be acquaintances of the guide, and the
meeting seemed to be one which afforded mutual pleasure to
both parties. He represented them as being a perfectly
harmless people, and there was nothing in their appearance to
indicate the contrary. They were clothed in deer-skins, with
fox-skin caps, or cast-off clothing of the whites. Their arms
were bows and arrows ; the latter were pointed with bone, and
they carried them in a quiver made of seal-skin.

On the morning of the 14th we resumed our journey, and
made about ten miles on our course. The soil now was com-
posed of white sand, mixed with clay, and produced only
prairie grass. I gave this day to one of the scientific gentle-
men, Mr. Dana, a beautiful specimen of fresh-water asticus,
which I captured in the stream, upon whose banks we
encamped for the night.

On the 15th our route lay through a broken countr}^, densely
covered with pines, spruces, and oaks ; some of the former
were upwards of two Imndred feet in height, and proportionally
large in circumference. At 3.30 P. M. we reached the base
of the Elk Mountains, which separate the valley of Willamette
from that of Umpquoa. We estimated the greatest elevation
of these mountains to be 1500 feet; they are clothed with
trees and underbrush to their summit. We had a severe frost
during the night, although the temperature during the day
had been as high as 77° in the shade.

The, Elk

The Bejzr,

The, Black-tailed Deer.

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 283

On the 16th we encamped on the Elk River. This river
is so called because its banks abound in elk ; it is about one-
half of the size of the Willamette River, and has considerable
current. We had scarcely pitched our tents, when some of
the hunters succeeded in killing an elk and a deer. They
were brought into camp, and divided among the different messes.

The following morning, Messrs. Emmons, Agate, and ser-
geant Stearns, with Boileau as a guide, left the camp for Fort
Umpquoa, for the double object of examining the country and
exchanging several of the pack-horses, which had nearly given
out. This fort belongs to the Hudson's Bay Company, and is
constructed after the manner of those of Nisqually and Van-
couver. It is situated on the Umpquoa River, a fine stream,
which empties into the ocean.

The Superintendent of the establishment, Mr. Gangriere,
gave Mr. Emmons a very unfavorable account of the Indians
who inhabited this region. - He stated that he had long before
heard of the intended journey, through the Indians, and that
the news had passed on to all the tribes, who were collecting
in large numbers, to oppose our passage. He also endeavored
to dissuade Mr. Emmons from proceeding any further, by
telling him that these Indians were a brave race, consequently
in the event of an attack, our party must be destroyed, for he
thought it was very small.

According to our hunters, the Umpquoa country abounds in
beaver, deer, and bears. About dusk Mr. Emmons returned,
accompanied by Mesdames Boileau and Gangriere, who
wished to see the camp, and consult the doctor. He commu-
nicated to the party, what Mr. Gangriere had stated in rela-
tion to the Indians, and gave orders for inoreasing the number
of sentries about the camp, to make more cartridges, and to
put all the arms in the best fighting condition.

284 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

At an early hour on the 18th, we resumed our march.
Mesdames Boileau and Grangriere accompanied us for a few
miles, and then left, to return to Fort Umpquoa.

On the 19th we deviated from the direct road, in order to
avoid any chance of an encounter with the Indians. This
brought us to the north fork of the Umpquoa, which we forded
without any accident, though, before making the attempt, it
was reasonably feared that we might meet with many, from the
fact that the current was very rapid, and the bottom extremely
slippery. The rocks observed in this region, contain fossils,
and occasionally exhibit seams of coal. During this day
many friendly Indians were seen, who reported that- the hos-
tile tribes were preparing to dispute our passage. We passed
one large party, composed entirely of women, who were out
gathering roots. They were all passe, and extremely ugly.
One old wonian can only be described by Juvenal, —

•• Such -wrinkles see,
As in an Indian forest's solitude,
Some old ape scrubs amidst her numerous brood."

During the 20th, our route lay through a succession of
hills and valleys, intersected by numerous streams. None of
the hills are more than four hundred feet in height, and all are
susceptible of cultivation, the soil being apparently as good
as that in the valleys. We saw, in the course of this day,
several grisly bears, and the hunters fired many balls at
them ; but they did not succeed in killing any. At sunset we
encamped on the south branch cf the Umpquoa River.
During the night our rest was much disturbed by the howling
of wolves, which are very numerous in these parts.

The following day we crossed the Umpquoa River ; it is
not s: broad nor so deep as the northern branch. We passed,

J^«A^

The Common Wolf.

The Dusky Wolf.

/

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 287

during this day's ride, a number of Indian graves ; they were
surrounded with poles, one end of which was stuck in the
ground, to the other were suspended the goods of the deceased,
such as mats, blankets, bows, and arrows. We also met
several small parties of Umpquoa Indians, who declared them-
selves to be friendly to the whites, and were anxious to obtain
powder and balls, but we refused to furnish them. We
expected an attack during the night, from the hostile tribes,
and had prepared to give them a warm reception ; but none
appeared.

On the 22d, at an early hour, we commenced to ascend the
Umpquoa Mountains. The path was narrow and very steep,
so much so, that several of the pack-horses stumbled and
were considerably injured. At 11 A. M. we halted, for
nearly half an hour, to rest the animals. At 4, having
reached the summit of the ridge, we again rested for a few
minutes, and then commenced descending, and by sunset we
arrived at the valley beneath, where we spent the night. We
found the greatest elevation of ^ the- mountain to be 1750 feet.
During the 23d, we remained at the same encampment, in
order to give the horses time to recover from the fatigue under-
gone, and to afford Mr. Peale an opportunity of finding his
camera-lucida and drawings, which had dropped out of his
carpet-bag, while crossing the mountains yesterday. At 3,
he returned, and brought with him the camera-lucida; the
other articles he was unable to find. We observed, in the
neighborhood of this encampment, a considerable number of
the Pinus Lambertiana Douglas.

On the 24th we resumed our route. The country looked
much less inviting than it did on the other side of the moun-
tain. Perhaps the contrast would not have been so striking,
ikad there not been an almost entire destitution of vegetation,

288 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

the fire having destroyed everything but the trees. The
rocks are intersected with veins of quartz, and the soil is
sandy and generally of a light-red color.

In the course of the day, the hunters discovered the fresh
foot-prints of Indians, and in searching for the savages, they
came upon three squaws, who had been left, when the others
fled. It was clear that the savages were closely watching our
movements, and only waited for a good opportunity to pounce
upon us. At 4 P. M. we arrived, and encamped on the
banks of Young's Creek, where we found a party of Klamet
Indians ; they looked very innocent, and pretended to be glad
to see us ; but the guide represented them as being the most
rascally set in all Oregon — calling them horse-thieves, robbers,
and murderers.

During the 25th and 26th, our road lay through an undu-
lating country, interspersed with forests of the Pinus Lamber-
tiana. I tasted the sugar produced by this singular tree, and
found it to be slightly bitter. It is a powerful cathartic, yet
I was told that the trappers used it as a substitute for sugar ;
the Indian mode of collecting it is to burn a cavity in the
tree, whence it exudes in large quantities. We passed, on
the last of these days, Tootootutnas River, another beautiful
stream, upwards of one hundred yards in width, and abound-
ing in salmon and other fish. The land, a few hundred
yards from its banks, rises into hills of considerable height,
formed principally of granite sand.

Several Indians came about the camp and pretended to be
friendly, but we placed no confidence in their professions, and
sent them away before night came on. They had canoes with
which they na\igated the neighboring streams, but they were
very rude, and dug out square at the extremes.

During both these days most of the gentlemen of the party

Tim Bison.

The Antelope.

OVEKLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 291

and several of tlie sailors suiFered excessively from attacks of
the ague. In my own case, the chills were so violent, that it
was impossible to travel while they lasted.

On the 27th, we reached one of those places where it was
said the Indians never failed to make their attacks. We had
one man in the party who had been twice assaulted at the
same place. It was a steep rocky spot, close by the river
Tootootutnas. As we passed on, many armed Indians were
observed on the opposite side of the stream, and, occasionally,
were heard to utter yells, which were absolutely infernal, but
they did not attempt to oppose our progress. We were fully
prepared for them, and, it was this, no doubt, which prevented
their making an assault. Eve'n the wives of the hunters were
armed on the occasion.

We saw this day a great variety of game, among which was
the antelope. It is said the Indians take this animal by ex-
citing its curiosity ; for this purpose, they conceal themselves
behind a tree, or among the bushes, and making a rustling
noise, the attention of the animal is soon attracted, when it is
led to advance toward the place of concealment, until the
fatal arrow pierces it. The animal strongly resembles the
deer, and its flesh is very palatable. According to the hunters,
they are found only in the prairies.

On the 29 th, we crossed the boundary range which separates
Oregon from Upper California. The greatest elevation of the
range was found to be 2,000 feet. The ascent was steep and
tedious, and every moment we expected to be attacked by
hostile Indians. The hunter named Tibbats, was one of a
large party which was nearly destroyed by the savages three
years before. He flattered himself that he should now have
an opportunity to take his revenge on them, but he was
not gratified, as not an Indian was to be seen in passing the

292 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

mountain, although they had evidently intended to attack us ;
fresh tracks v/ere observable in every direction, and large
trees felled across the path to prevent the party from ad-
vancing.

On arriving at the summit of the range, we obtained a view
tvhich more than repaid us for our trouble. The Shaste
Mountains with their snowy peaks, were to be seen some fifty
miles to the southward, swelling and soaring to the skies,
while the Klamet Valley into which we descended, like that in
which the poet built his Castle of Indolence, was

" A lonely dale fast by the river side,
And was, I ween, a lovely spot of ground."

This valley is watered by the Klamet River, and is bounded
on all sides with hills of considerable elevation, rising one be-
yond the other, and covered with forests of oak, which added
materially to the picturesque beauty of the scene.

During the 30th, we remained encamped to enable the sick
to recover from the fatigue undergone in crossing the moun-
tains. Near this camping-place was found an Indian hut
constructed of bent twigs ; it was small and extremely low.
The temperature in the shade during the day was 100°, at
night, it was 32°. No doubt these great and sudden changes
in the atmosphere tended to aggravate the ague attacks from
which we suffered during the journey.

On the 1st of October the sick were much better, and we
pursued our way. At 10 A. M. we forded theKla;net River,
where it was about seventy yards broad ; it was between three
and four feet deep, with a beautiful pebbly bottom. There
were rapids both above and below the ford, and from the
appearance of the banks, it is subject to overflow. After
crossing the river, masses of volcanic rock were observable in

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 29S

all directions, and the soil was dry and barren. At sunset
we pitched our tents on a spot of green grass, near the southern
branch of the Klamet River, which is likewise a beautiful
stream, and abounds in fish.

The Indians found here were well disposed and better look-
ing than any we had seen before. They supplied us with
some salmon which were of a whitish color, and greatly in-
ferior in flavor to those taken in the Columbia. They were
also willing to sell their bows and arrows, which were neatly
made, and several were purchased for the Government.

October 2d, 9 A. M., we bade adieu to Klamet River, and
directed our steps to the southward. The country was now
more undulating, and apparently more fertile, than that we
passed over the preceding day. We did not meet with any
water till late in the day, in consequence of which, the poor
animals suffered excessively from thirst. Large herds of an-
telopes and mountain-sheep were seen ; the latter are of a
grayish color, have long spreading horns, and are much larger
animals than the ordinary sheep.

From the 3d and up to the 10th, we were engaged in cross-
ing the Shaste Range. These mountains may be represented
as being a succession of a range of high hills, separated from
each other by narrow valleys, traversed by streams that are
fed by the melting snows which cover the tops of the highest
peaks. The path was serpentine and difficult, and several of
the horses broke down before the summit of the last range
could be gained. In the valleys the Pinus Lambertiana was
seen flourishing in all its glory ; several trees were measured,
and found to be three hundred feet in height.

The day after we commenced to ascend these mountains,
we fell in with the head waters of the Sacramento, which flow
to the southward. At this point it was an insignificant

294 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

stream, being not more than thirty feet broad and two feet
deep.

The weather, with the exception of that of a single day, was
cool, clear and bracing, and w^e all enjoyed much better health
than while traversing the plains. Nor was there any want of
game ; indeed, some days our hunters killed more than it was
possible for the company to consume. The scientific gentle-
men made large collections in their respective departments.

We saw many Indians, and as we knew they were friendly ;
we permitted them to enter our camp. They are a large,
fine-looking race, and of a sociable disposition. They do not
compress their heads, and they allow their hair, which is fine
and glossy, to hang down to their shoulders in natural ringlets.
Their food consists of game, fish, and acorns, which they make
into bread. Their huts are small, and devoid of comfort.
They have bows and arrows, with which they shoot admirably.
An ordinary sized button was set up as a mark thirty yards
off, and they hit it three times out of five ; they can also kill
birds on the wing. The arrows are nearly three feet long,
and feathered from six to ten inches. In shooting, the bow is
held horizontally, braced by the thumb of the left hand, and
drawn by the thumb and three fingers of the right hand ; and
to obviate the disadvantage of drawing to the breast, the chest
is thrown backwards on discharging the arrow; they throw
out the right leg, and stand on the left.

The few women we saw were much inferior in personal ap-
pearance to the men, which we attributed to hard Avork, for
they seemed to be constantly employed, wliile the men did
nothing but eat, drink, and amuse themselves. The artist of
the party had much difficulty in taking their portraits, as they
imagined that he was a medicine-man, and desired to practise
some enchantment upon them.

%

■^

The. Ruffed G-rouse

$

The VeUicav.

Th& Black Bear.

The Grisley Bear. '

OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO. 299

It was calculated that the width of the range we passed
over was one hundred miles. We were allured from height to
height by many splendid views of land and water, which open
at every turn of the pass ; still we felt quite relieved when
we reached the Sacramento Valley on the other side of the
mountain, and reflected that the remainder of our journey
would be comparatively easy, and devoid of the anxiety caused
by the constant anticipation of being assaulted by hostile
tribes.

On reaching the Sacramento Valley, a material difference
was observed in the character of the vegetation. Few pines
or firs were now to be seen, while the oak, the sycamore, and
the cotton-wood trees were abundant. Most of the plants
were also unlike any we had been accustomed to see, and
some were found which were not described in any of the
botanical works-

On the 10th we fell in with several villages belonging to
the Kinkla tribe of Indians ; they consisted of a few rude
huts constructed of poles — the whole surrounded by a brush-
fence, which answered for a stockade. Most of the inhabi-
tants were out gathering acrons and wild grapes. Their
complexion w^as quite dark, but their features are more regu-
lar than those of the northern tribes. Some were seen who
had the Roman nose and oval face. They wore their hair
long, but had it tied in a bunch behind. Their ears were
bored, and the upper part of each cheek had a triangular
figure painted upon it with a blue-black substance. It was
also observed that they tattooed their arms. They had nothing
to cover their nakedness, except a piece of deer-skin thrown
over their shoulders. Their weapons were bows and arrows,
and a forked-spear which they use to kill fish.

Within half a mile of one of the villages our hunters killed

800 OVERLAND EXPEDITION TO SAN FRANCISCO.

two grisly bears. It is said this animal is very numerous in
these parts, and not unfrequently enter the Indian villages,
and carry off stray children. The soil of this portion of the
valley is of an inferior quality, and bears but few trees or
plants.

On the 12th we forded the Sacramento River, where it was
between three and four feet deep and two hundred yards
broad. It had been our intention to have disposed of the
horses here, and proceed down the river in canoes, but these
were not to be had, nor could w^e find suitable timber from
which to make them ourselves. The soil now appeared more
fertile, though we saw little vegetation, on account of the
country having been run over by fire.

Game was very plentiful, and five bears were killed in the
course of the afternoon.

During the 14th and 15th we traveled over a plain studded
with a vast number of crater-shaped hills, which go by the
name of Prairie Butes. It is generally believed that each of
these has been a volcano. They can be seen at a great dis-
tance, as they have an elevation of from five hundred to
eighteen hundred feet; tbe ground about them is strewed
with a great quantity of bones of animals that resort here for
protection during the season of the freshets, w^hich flood the
whole of the level countiy ; a deposit of considerable thick-
ness covered the surface. The rocks forming some of the
butes were of a volcanic origin. A great number of wild fowl
were seen on both of these days.

On the ITth we reached Feather River, which is a tributary
to the Sacramento. As we were unable to find a place where
it would be safe to ford it, we proceeded down its bank, and
at sunset we encamped near its junction with the Sacramento
River. It is a more rapid stream than the Sacramento, but

CAPTAIN SUTTER'S PLACE, OR NEW HELVATIA. 301

its volume of water is considerably less. Its banks are from
ten to fifteen feet high, and fringed with the sycamore and
cotton-wood trees. It is navigable for boats,

The 18th brought us to Captain Sutter's place, or New
Helvatia, where we found the " Vincennes' " launch, in which
Messrs. Emmons, Dana, Agate, Dr. Whittle and myself
embarked, and proceeded down to San Francisco. The rest
of the party set out to reach San Francisco by land.

Captain Sutter* is a native of Switzerland, and has lived a
most eventful life. He was a lieutenant in the Swiss Guards
in the time of Charles X. Soon after the abdication of that
monarch, he resigned his commission, and came over to the
United States, and resided several years in St. Charles, Mis-
souri.

We were most hospitably and kindly received by him ; there
was no ostentatious display, no pomp nor ceremony, but an
easy and polite demeanor on the part of our host, that made
us feel perfectly at home. He has been two years in Califor-
nia, and he informed us that he has obtained from the Govern-
ment a conditional grant of ninety miles square in the Valley
of the Sacramento. The location he has chosen for the erection
of his dwelling and fort he has called New Helvatia. It is
situated on the east bank of the Sacramento river, and about
sixty miles from its mouth ; his buildings are constructed of
adobes, and cover a large extent of ground. He has com-
menced extensive operations in farming, and the extent of his
stock amounts to two thousand sheep, three thousand cattle,
and about one thousand horses.

As we approached the settlement, we passed the village of
Indians who live on the farm and work it, with whose appear-

* It is well known that to his enterprise in erecting a mi]l, the first gold discovery
in California was attributed.

ance I was mucli disappointed, in consequence of the filtliiness
of their looks ; they are amply provided with the necessaries
of life by Captain Sutter, but their natural inclination and
habits are such as to prevent their advancement in civilized
life.

Besides farming, Captain Sutter is engaged in trapping,
and distilling a kind of liquor resembling Pisco, from the wild
grape of the country.

On the 19th of October we arrived at San Francisco Bay,
where we found the " Vincennes.-' The overland detachment
arrived in the afternoon of the 24th.

The Valley of Sacramento is one hundred and seventy miles
long and from twenty to sixty miles wide. Having heard much
of its fruitfulness, we expected, on entering it, to see a perfect
garden ; but such was not the case. On the contrary, we saw
but little good land ; and as for the landscape, it was extremely
uninteresting, being utterly devoid of either beauty or variety.
The river is navigable for vessels of sixty tons burthen, as far
as New Helvatia, and for boats and canoes, seventy miles
farther. The banks are nowhere over twenty feet in height,
and are lined with sycamore and cotton-wood trees ; some of
which are of large dimensions.

San Francisco Eay is an extensive body of water, studded
with many islands, wm-eli look as fresh and verdant as nature
can make them. It comm-anicates Avith the ocean by a nar-
row passage, bounded on either sid^ by rocky cliffs. The name
of the principal town is Yerba-buciig, ; it is located near the
entrance, and contains about thirty buildings of one story high,
constructed of adobes. The trade is limited to eight or ten
vessels ; these lay at their anchors until they retail out their
cargoes, by which means part of the duties, which are very
onerous on all landed articles, ar2 saved.

CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 303

Such was San Francisco at the time of our visit ; since
then the whole of California has undergone surprising changes,
which cannot be better described than in the AYords of Mr.
Walter Colton, author of " Deck and Port," and " Three
Years in California."

" The Bay of San Francisco resembles a broad inland lake,
communicating by a narrow channel with the ocean. This
channel, as the tradition of the Aborigines runs, was opened
by an earthquake, which a few centuries since convulsed the
continent. The town is built on the south bend of the bay,
near its communication with the sea . Its site is a succession
of barren sand-hills, tumbled up into every variety of shape.
No leveling process, on a scale of any magnitude, has been
attempted. The buildings roll up and over these sand-ridges
like a shoal of porpoises over the svf ell of a wave, only the fish
has much the most order in the disposal of his head and tail.
More incongruous combinations in architecture never danced
in the dreams of men — brick warehouses, wooden shanties,
sheet-iron huts, and shaking-tents, are blended in admirable
confusion.

" But these grotesque habitations have as much uniformity
and sobriety as the habits of those v/ho occupy them. Hazards
are made in commercial transactions, and projects of specula-
tion that would throw Wall Street into spasms. I have seen
merchants purchase cargoes without having even glanced into
the invoice. The conditions of the sale were a hundred per
sent, profits to the owner, and costs. In one cargo, when
tumbled out, were found twenty thousand, dollars in the single
article of red cotton handkerchiefs ! 'I'll get rid of these
among the vv^ild Indians,' said 'the purchaser, with a shrug of
the shoulders. — ' I've a water lot which I will sell,' cries
another. ' W^hich way does it stretch?' inquire half-a-dozen,

o04 CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

* Right under the craft there,' is the reply. ' And what do
you ask for it?' ' Fifteen thousand dollars.' ' I'll take it.'
' Then down with the dust.' So the water lot, which mortal
eyes never yet beheld, changes its owners, without changing
its fish.

" ' I have two shares in a gold-mine,' cries another.

* Where are they?' inquire the crowd. 'Under the south
branch of the Yuba River, which we have almost turned,' is
the reply. 'And what will you ta.ke?' 'Fifteen thousand
dollars.' 'I'll give ten.' 'Take it, stranger.' So the two
shares of a possibility of gold, under a branch of the Yuba,
where the water still rolls, rapid and deep, are sold for ten
thousand dollars, paid down. Is there anything in the ' Ara-
bian JVights^ that surpasses this ?

" But glance at the large wooden building which looks as if
the winds had shingled it, and the powers of the air pinned its
clapboards in a storm. Enter, and you find a great hall filled
with tables, and a motley group gathered around each. Some
are laying down hundreds, and others thousands, on the turn
of a card. Each has a bag of grain-gold in his hand, which
he must double or lose, and is only anxious to reach the table
where he can make the experiment. You would advise him at
least to purchase a suit of clothes, or repair his old ones,
before he loses his all ; but what cares he for his outward
garb, when piles of the yellow dust swell and glitter in his
excited imagination? Down goes his bag of gold — and is
lost ! But does he look around for a rope, or pistol, that he
may end his ruin ? No ; the river-bank w^here he gathered
that gold has more ; so he cheers his momentary despondency
with a strong glass of brand}'', and is off again for the mines.
He found the gold by good fortune and has lost it by bad, and
now considers himself about even with the world. Such ia

CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. S05

the moral effect of gold-hunting on a man whose principles are
not as fixed and immovable as the rock. It begins in a
lottery and ends in a lottery, where the blanks out-number
the prizes ten to one.

" But you are hungry — want a breakfast — turn into a re-
staurant— call for ham, eggs, and coffee — then your bill. Six
dollars ! Your high boots, wiiich have never seen a brush
since you first put them on, have given out ; you find a pair
that can replace them ; they are a tolerable fit ; and now
what is the price? Fifty dollars ! Your beard has not felt a
razor since j^ou went to the mines ; it must come off, and your
frizzled hair be clipped. You find a barber ; his dull shears
hang in the knots of your hair, like a sheep-shearer's in a
fleece matted with burrs. The razor he straps on the leg of
his boot, and then hauls awa}^, starting at every pull some new
fountain of tears. You vow you will let the beard go, but then
one side is partly off, and you try the agony again to get the
other side something like it. And now what is the charge for
this torture ? Four dollars ! Night is approaching, and you
must have a place where you can sleep. To inquire for a
bed would be as idle as to hunt a pearl in the jungle of a
Greenland bear. You look around for the lee of some shanty
or tent, and tumble down for the night ; but a thousand fleas
dispute the premises w^ith you — the contest is hopeless ; you
tumble out as you tumble in, and spend the remainder of the
night in finding a place not occupied by these aborigines of
the soil.

" But you are not perhaps a gold-digger, as I had supposed.
You -are a supercargo, and have a valua.ble freight which you
wish to land. You have warped your vessel in till her keel
rakes, and yet you are several hundred yards off. Some
lighter must be found that can skim these shallows — your

oOG CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

own boats "will not do. After waiting two or three weeks
^'ou get the use of a scow, called a lighter, for which you pay
one hundred and fifty dollars a day.

'' To-rnorrow you are going to commence unloading, and wake
betimes ; but find, that, during the night, every soul of your
srew has escaped, and put out for the mines. You rush about
Dn shore to find hands, and collect eight or ten loafers, who
will assist you for fifteen dollars a-day each. Your cargo
must be landed, and you close the bargain, though your fresh
hands are already half-seas over. The scow is shoved from
shore, brought along-side, loaded with goods, which are tumbled
in as an Irishman dumps a load of dirt, and then vfith your oar
and poles, push for the landing ; but the tide has ebbed too
Boon ; you are only half-way, and there your scow sticks fast
In the midst of a great mud bottom, from which the last rip-
ple of water has retreated. You cannot get forward, and you
are now too late to get back ; night is setting in, and the rain
clouds are gathering fast — down comes a deluge, drenching
your goods and filling your open scow. The returning tide
will now be of no use — the scow wont float except under water,
and that is a sort of floating which don't suit you ; skin for
skin — though in this case not dry — what will a man not give
for his own life ? So, out you jump, and by crawling and
creeping, make your way through the mire to the landing, and
bring up against a bin, where another sort of wallower gives
you a grunt of welcome. Your loafers must be paid off" in the
morning and the scow recovered, or its loss will cost you half
the profits of your voyage. But the storm last night has driven
another brig into yours, and there they both are, like a bear
and bull, that have gored and crushed each other. But
' misery loves company,' and you have it. The storm which
swamped your scow and stove your brig last night, has been

CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 307

busy on shore. Piles of goods heaped up in every street, are
in a condition which requires wreckers, as well as watchmen.
But no one here is going to trouble himself about your mis-
fortunes, nor much about his own. The reverses of to-day
are to be more than repaired by the successes of to-morrow.
These are only the broken pick-axes and spades by which the
great mine is to be reached. What is the loss of a few thou-
sands to one who is so soon to possess millions 1 Only a coon
back in his hole, while the buffalo remains within rifle shot —
only a periwinkle lost, while the whale is beneath the harpoon
— only a farthing candle consumed, while the dowered bride,
blushing in beauty and bhss, is kneeling at the nuptial altar.
But let that pass.

" But you are not alone in your destitution and dirt. There
are hundreds around you who were quite as daintily reared,
and who are doing here what they dodged at home. Do you
see that youth in red flannel shirt and coarse brogans, rolling
a wheel-barrow ? He was a clerk in a counting-house in
New York, and came here to shovel up gold, as you scoop up
sand. He has been to the mines, gathered no gold, and re-
turned, but now makes his ten dollars a-day by rolling that
wheel-barrow ; it costs him six, however, to live, and the other
four he loses at monte.

" See you that young man with a long whip ni his hand,
cracking it over an ox-team 1 He was one of the most learned
geologists, for his age, in the United States, and came out
here to apply his science to the discovery of gold deposits ;
but, somehow, his diving-rods always dipped wrong, and now,
he has taken about which there is no mistake, so at least think
his cattle. He would accumulato a fortune, did he not lose
it as fast as made in some phrenzied speculation. But look
yonder — do you see that young gentleman with a string of

SOS CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

fish, which he offers for sale ? He was one of the best Greek
and Latin scholars of his class in Yale College, and, subse-
quently, one of the most promising Members of our Bar. But
he exchanged his Blackstone for a pick, and, instead of pick-
ing fees out of his clients' pockets, he came here to pick gold
out of the mines ; but, the deuce was it, for whenever his
pick struck close upon a deposit, it was no longer there ; so
he exchanged his pick for a hook and line, and now angles for
pike, pickerel, and perch, and can describe each fish b}^ some
apt line from Catulus. He would do well at his new pisca-
tory profession but for the gilded hook of the gambler. He
laughs at the trout for darting at a fictitious fly, a-nd then chases
a bait himself equally fanciful and false.

" But look again — do you see that pulperia, with its gathered
groups of soldiers and sailors, poets and politicians, merchants
and mendicants, doctors and draymen, clerks and cobblers,
trappers and tinkers ? That little man who stands behind the
bar, and deals to each his dram of fire, was once a preacher,
and deemed almost a prophet, as he depicted the pangs of that
worm which dieth not, but now he has exchanged that worm
for another, but preserved his consistency, for his worm, too,
distilleth delirium and death. And that thick-set man who
stands in the midst of the crowd, with ruby countenance and
reveling eye, whose repartee sets the whole pulperia in a roar,
and who is now watching the liquor in his glass to see if it
stirreth itself aright, once lectured in the west on the tempta-
tions of those who tarry late at the wine ; but now his teeto-
talism covers all liquors as goodly gifts graciously bestowed.
But one brief year, and some dame quickly may describe his
pale exit, as that of his delirious prototype. ' I saw him
fumble with the sheets, and play with flowers, and smile upon
his fingers' ends.'

CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 309

" And, yet, with all these drawbacks, with all these gamb-
ling-tables, grog-shops, shanties, shavers, and fleas, San
Francisco is swelling into a town of the highest commercial
importance. She commands the trade of the great valle3^s,
through which the Sacramento and San Joaquin, with their
numerous tributaries, roll. She gathers to her bosom the pro-
duct and manufactures of the United States, of England,
China, the shores and islands of the Pacific. But now let us
glance at California as she was a few years since, as she is
now, and as she is fast becoming.

" Three years ago, the white population of California could
not have exceeded ten thousand souls. She has now a popula-
tion of two hundred thousand, and a resistless tide of emigra-
tion rolling in, through the heart of Mexico, over the Isthmus
of Panama, around Cape Horn, and over the steeps of the
Rocky Mountains. Then the great staple of the country was
confined to wild cattle ; now it is found in exhaustless mines
of quicksilver and gold. Then, the shipping which frequented
her waters, was confined to a few drogers, that waddled along
her coast Jn quest of hides and tallow; now, the richest
argosies of the commercial world are bound to her ports.

" Three years ago, the dwellings of her citizens were reared
under the hands of Indians, from sun-baked adobes of mud
and straw; now, a thousand hammers are ringing on rafter
and roof, over walls of iron and brick. Then, the plough
which furrowed her fields, was the crotch of a tree, which a
stone or root might shiver ; now, the shares of the New
England farmer glitter in her soil. Then, the wheels of her
carts were cut from the butts of trees, with a hole in the
centre, for the rude axle ; now, the iron-bound wheel of the
finished mechanic, rolls over her hills and valleys. Then,
only the canoe of the Indian disturbed the sleeping surface of

810 CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

her waters ; now, a fleet of steamers plough her ample rivers
and bays. Then, not a school-house, public teacher, magazine,
or newspaper, could be found in the whole territory ; now, they
are met with in most of the larger towns. Then, the tastes
and passions of an idle throng rang on the guitar and the fan-
dango ; now, the calculations of the busy multitudes turn to
the cultured field and productive mine. Then, California
was a dependency of Mexico, and subject to revolutions, with
the success of every daring military chieftain ; now, she is an
independent State, with an enlightened constitution, which
guarantees equal rights and privileges to all. Then, she was
in arms against our flag ; now, she unrolls it on the breeze,
with the star of her own being and pride glowing in the con-
stellation which blazes on its folds.

" Three years ago, and San Francisco contained three hun-
dred souls ; now she has a population of twenty-seven thou-
sand.* Then, a building-lot within her limits cost fifteen
dollars ; now, the same lot cannot be purchased at a less sum
than fifteen thousand. Then, her commerce was confined to a
few Indian blankets, and Mexican reboses and beads ; now,
from two to three hundred merchantmen are unloading their
costly cargoes on her quay. Then, the famished whaler could
hardly find a temporary relief in her markets ; now, she has
phrenzied the world with her wealth. Then, Benicia was a
pasture, covered with lowing herds ; now, she is a commercial
mart, threatening to rival her sister nearer the sea. Then,
Stockton and Sacramento City were covered with wild oats,
where the elk and deer gamboled at will ; now, they are laced
with streets and walled with warehouses, through which the
great tide of commerce rolls ofl". into a hundred mountain
glens. Then, the banks of the Sacramento and San Joaquin

♦According to the last accounts, it ha- increased to 4^000.

CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. oil

were cheered only by the curling smoke of the Indian's hut j
now, they throw on the eye, at every bend, the cheerful aspect
of some new hamlet or town. Then, the silence of the Sierra
Nevada was broken only by the voice of its streams ; now,
every cavern and cliflf is echoing under the blows of the sturdy
miner. The wild horse, startled in his glen, leaves on the hill
the clatter of his hoofs, while the huge bear, roused from his
patrimonial jungle, grimly retires to some new mountain-fast-
ness.

" But I must drop this contrast of the past with the present,
and glance at a few facts which affect the future. The gold
deposits which have hitherto been discovered, are confined,
mainly, to the banks and beds of perpetual streams, or the
bottoms of ravines, through which 3*11 the waters of the
transient freshet. These deposits are the natural results of
the law of gravitation ; the treasures which they contain must
have been washed from the slopes of the surrounding hills.
The elevations, like spendthrifts, seem to have parted entirely
with their golden inheritance, except what may linger still in
the quartz. And these gold-containing quartz will be found
to have their confined localities ; they will crown the insular
peaks of a mountain-ridge, or fret the verge of some extin-
guished volcano ; they have never been found in a continuous
range, except in the ^reams of enchantment ; you might as
well look for a wall of diamonds or a solid bank of pearls.
Nature has played off many a prodigal caprice in California,
but a mountain of gold is not one of them. The alluvial gold,
will, at no distant day, be measurably exhausted, and the
miners be driven into the mountains. Here, the work can be
successfully prosecuted only by companies, with heav^ capi-
to,ls. All the uncertainties which are connected with mining
operations, will gather around these enterprises. Wealth will

312 CALIFORNIA AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

reward the labors of the few, whose success was mainly the
result of good fortune, while disappointment will attend the
efforts of the many, equally skillful and persevering. These
wide inequalities in the proceeds of the miner's labor, have
exhibited themselves, wherever a gold deposit has been
hunted or found in California. The past is the reliable
prophecy of the future.

" Not one in ten of the thousands who have gone, or may go
to California to hunt for gold, will return with a fortune ;
Btill the great tide for emigration will set there, till her valleys
and mountain-glens teem with a hardy enterprising population.
As the gold deposits diminish, or become more difficult of
access, the quicksilver mines will call forth their unflagging
energies. This met^ slumbers in her mountain- spurs in
massive richness ; the process is simple which converts it into
that form, through which the mechanic arts subserve the
thousand purposes of science and social refinement, while the
medical profession, through its strange abuse, keep up a Car-
nival in the Court of Death; but for this they who mine the
ore are not responsible — they will find their reward in the
wealth which will follow their labors. It will be in their
power to silence the hammers in those mines which have
hitherto monopolized the markets of the world.

But the enterprise and wealth of California are not confined
to her mines. Her ample forests of oak, redwood and pine,
only wait the requisite machinery to convert them into elegant
residences and strong-ribbed ships. Her exhaustless quarries
of granite and marble will yet pillar the domes of metropoli-
tan splendor and pride. The hammer and drill will be
relinquished by multitudes for the plough and sickle. Her
arable land, stretching through her spacious valleys, and along
the broad banks of her rivers, will wave with the golden bar-

CALIFORNIA AFTER THK DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 315

vest ; the rain-cloud may not visit her in the summer months,
but the mountain-stream will he induced to throw its showers
over her thirsty plains.

" Such was California a few years since — such is she now,
and such will she become even before they who now rush to
her shores, find their footsteps within the shadows of the
pale realm."

•'^16 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA.

CHAPTER XXII.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA.

California was discovered by the Spaniards about 1534,
and towards the close of the succeeding century, the Jesuits
estabUshed themselves in it to convert the natives. The ef-
forts of the missionaries have nominally converted about half
the natives to Christianity, but the number of the native in-
habitants are rapidly decreasing, and they do not number at
present more than fourteen thousand. Though divided into
many tribes, they are understood to belong to the same family,
speaking the same language, and having similar manners and
customs.

The stature of these people varies with their habits. Those
who subsist chiefly on fish, and inhabit the sea-coast, are sel-
dom more than five feet and six inches in height, with slender
forms, while those who occupy the great valleys in the interior
are tall and robust. Their complexion is a shade or two
darker than that of the Indians in Oregon and about the
Columbia ; their noses are broad and flat ; the hair is black,
coarse, and straight, and their lips are thick, like the negro.
The forehead is low and contracted; eyebrows and beard
scanty. They have the habit common to all American Indians
of extracting the beard and hair of other parts of the body.
During the summer months the men seldom conceal their
nakedness ; but the females always have a rush or a skin-
covering around the waist. The women are also fond of tat-

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA. 317

toeing, and ornament their arms and breasts with it. Their
habitations are formed of pliable poles, with their butts in-
serted into the ground and tied together at the top. These
are interwoven with brush and thatched with bulrushes ; the
interior of these wigwams is usually very filthy, and contain
no furniture, except a few wooden bowls, a small netting-sack
in which to put their fruit and seeds, another in the form of a
bag to sling on the shoulders, for the purpose of carrying theix
infants when traveling, one or two fishing-nets, and a sea-
shell for dipping water to drink.

Among some of the tribes, parentage and other relations of
consanguinity are no obstacles to matrimony. A man often
marries a whole family, the mother and daughters, and it is
said that in such cases no jealousies ever appear among these
families of wives. They seem to consider their offspring as
the property of all, and the husband as their common protector.

It is known that those tribes which have not embraced
Christianity do nevertheless believe in the control of good and
evil spirits, to whom they occasionally offer prayers ; and as a
proof of their having some idea of a future state, they inva-
riably deposit bows and arrrows, and cooking utensils in the
graves of their dead.

The part of Upper California inhabited by foreign settlers,
is a tract extending five hundred miles along the shore of
the Pacific, and bounded inland at an average distance of forty
miles from the coast by a range of hills. The most southern
portion of this region is torrid and parched, but as we proceed
north, the climate becomes more favorable, though the country
is subject to long and severe droughts, which occasion great
distress. There are many streams in this part of California,
which carry off the water in torrents to the ocean, during the
rainy season, and cause the valleys which they water, to afford

818 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA.

good pasturage for the cattle which are found there in large
numbers. There are but two tracts of country capable of sup-
porting a large population — one west of Mount San Barnardino,
and the other surrounding the Bay of San Francisco and the
lower part of the Sacramento. To the east of the California
Mountains are the vast sandy plains, of which but little is
known ; nor have any attempts been made to explore the more
northern portion of this section.

The valleys of San Juan and that of Sacramento, are
capable of producing great crops of wheat, rye, oats, Indian
corn, potatoes, &c., with all the fruits and vegetables of the
temperate, and many of the tropical climates. The cultiva-
tion of the grape increases yearly, and the vineyards about the
Missions yield most abundantly as finely-flavored fruit as
there is to be found in any part of the world.

All this portion of California is well adapted to the rearing
of cattle and sheep ; they can find plenty of nutritious food
the whole year round, and they require no watching. The
mutton is of very fine flavor, and the usual price for a sheep
is from one dollar to one dollar and a half.

The Sacramento, and other rivers of Cahfornia abound in
salmon, and might be made a source of considerable profit.
Many more valuable species are taken in these waters.

The white and mixed population of this section is estimated
at five thousand. They are robust and tall, and pride them-
selves on their horsemanship ; they early become expert and
fearless riders, and they have been known to ride upwards of
two hundred miles in one day. Descended from the old
Spaniards, they are found to have all their vices and scarcely
any of their virtues ; they are cowardly, ignorant, lazy, and
addicted to gambling and drinking ; very few of them are able
to read or write, and know nothing of science or literature.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CALIFORNIA. '^2\

EOthing of government but its brutal force, nothing of religion
but ceremonies of the national ritual. Their amusements are
music, cock-fighting, bear-baiting, and horse-racing. Wed-
dings generally last for three or four days, and usually end in
some quarrel. The " cuchillo" is always worn, and is
resorted to in all their affrays. The females are very fond of
dress, and their propensity for gambling is as great as that of
the male portion of the community.

322 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNA

CHAPTER XXIII.

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA BY THE UNITED STATES.

The Commander-in-Cliief of the Pacific Squadron, Com-
modore Sloat, received reliable information, at Mazatlan, on
tlie Ttli of June, 1846, that the Mexican troops, six or seven
thousand in number, had invaded the territory of the United
States, and attacked General Taylor. He was told, that the
American Squadron, under Commodore Conner, was blockad-
ing the eastern coast, and he immediately sailed for Monterey,
where he found the " Cyane' and "Levant." After an
examination of the defences of the town, and completing his
arrangements for capturing it, he sent Captain Mervine, on
the 7th of July, to the governor of the town to demand its
surrender, and on his declining to comply with the summons,
it was taken by a detachment of two hundred and fifty seamen
and marines from the vessels. Masters of the town, they
speedily raised the American flag from the Custom4iouse,
amid the cheers from the troops and bystanders, and a
national salute from the squadron. A proclamation from
the Commodore was then posted up, stating the existence of
hostilities between Mexico and the United States, and his in-
tention to take possession of all California. It also announced
that, although the Commander-in-Chief came in arms, he
came as a friend, and all the peaceable inhabitants of the
country would be confirmed in the rights they then enjoyed, and*
have in addition the superior advantages afforded to the people

BY THE UNITED STATES. 'S'Jl

by the constitution and laws of the United States, under which
they might reasonably hope to advance and improve rapidly,
both in commerce and agriculture. Such of the inhabitants
as were disposed to live peaceably under the government of
the United States, were to be allowed time to dispose of their
property, and to leave the country, if they chose, without any
restriction, or to remain in it, in the observance of strict
neutrality. The civil functionaries were desired to retain
their offices, and preserve tranquillity ; and the people and
clergy were assured of their being unmolested in their pro-
perty, rights and possessions. Under the orders of the Com-
modore, Captain Montgomery, with seventy sailors and marines
of the United States sloop-of-war " Portsmouth," landed at
the settlement of Yerba Buena, in the Bay of San Francisco,
and took possession of that place. On the 11th of July,
Captain Montgomery informed the Commodore that the
American flag was flymg at Yerba Buena, at Sutter's Fort,
at Bodega, and at Sonoura ; and added, that the protection of
persons and property, which the American flag promised
to the land and the people, was hailed with joy by the people,
some of whom had enrolled themselves into a new company,
under the auspices of the American officers, styled " The
Volunteer Guards of Yerba Buena." On the day on which
he sent this communication to the Commodore, a British vessel
of twenty-SLX guns, the '' Juno," arrived at San Francisco, and
anchored. Captain Montgomery brought all his crew from
the shore to the ship, with a view of defending his position, in
case the English commander should think proper to interfere.
The " Volunteer Guards of Yerba Buena" took upon them-
selves the task of defending the flag of the United States,
assuring the commander that it should wave while a single
man of their body lived to defend it. Don Francisco Sancher,

328 CONQUEST OF CALIFCRNIA

the military commander of the district, promptly complied with
the requisition of Captain Montgomery, that he should come in
and deliver up the arms and public property in his possession.
He assured the American commander that he had no public
property, but told where several guns were buried. Lieut.
Missroon, of the " Portsmouth,'* went to the Mission of
Dolores, but found only a quantity of public documents, which
were taken possession of and deposited in the Custom-house.

On the 13th of July, at their own request. Commodore
Sloat furnished a flag to the foreigners of the Pueblo of San
Jose, a place about seventy miles distant from the coast, and
about eighty miles from Monterey. He had just completed
the organization of a company of thirty-five dragoons, made up
of volunteers from the ships and citizens, to reconnoitre the
country, and keep open the land-communication between the
difierent places held by the Americans. Purser Fauntleroy
was appointed to command this body, and Mr. McLane was
appointed first-lieutenant. On the 17th, Mr. Fauntleroy re-
connoitered as far as the Mission of St. John's, intending to
capture that place and recover ten brass field-pieces, said to
have been buried there by the Mexicans some time previously.
On his arrival there, he found the gallant Captain Fremont
already in possession, and the two returned together to
Monterey, the head-quarters of the Commodore.

Captain Fremont had left Washington in 1845, to make a
third expedition, for scientific purposes, to the regions west of
the Rocky Mountains, and his arrangements for the journey
contemplated only its legitimate objects. He took no officer
or soldier with him ; and the whole company which he led,
consisted of only sixty-two men, engaged by himself as se-
curity against the Indians, and for assistants in the duties of
his mission. He approached the settlements in California,

BY THE UNITED STATES. 829

about the beginning of the year 1846 ; and, as he was aware
of the difficulties existing between the United States and
Mexico, he determined to be very circumspect in his conduct.
He left his men on the frontiers, while he advanced alone a
hundred miles to Monterey, where he visited the principal offi-
cers of the Government, in company with the United States
Consul and Nav}^ Agent, Mr. Larkin. He informed them of
his expedition, and its purposes, and Governor Castro gave
him permission to pass the winter in the Valley of San
Joaquin, where was feed for his horses and game for his men.
Captain Fremont then returned to his men, and led them
leisurely to the place designated, but he had hardly reached
it, before he received orders from the Governor to leave the
country. He was even threatened with forcible ejection, if he
disobeyed the command. After the permission given him in
person by Castro, Captain Fremont determined not to obey
these uncourteous messages, and the Governor made great
preparations to carry his threats into execution. Of these he
was informed by Mr. Larkin, whom he answered by a letter,
stating, that if Governor Castro brought against him an
armed force, he should try to defend himself, though not one
of his men had ever been a soldier. He, moreover, informed
the Consul that he had hoisted the American flag, and he
should keep it flying as .the only protection he had to look to.
On the 7th of March, and the three following days, he em-
ployed himself in fortifying his position, by erecting a breast-
work of logs and brush. The position of the Americans was
on a high hill, whence they could see with their telescopes the
preparations of the Governor, in his camp at the Mission of
St. John's. Mr. Larkin now received another letter from
Captain Fremont, and at the earnest request of the Alcade,
it was immediately translated into Spanish, and sent to the

SSO CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA

Governor. Here follows a portion of the letter : — " I am
making myself as strong as possible, in the intention that, if
we are unjustly attacked, we will fight to extremity, and
refuse quarter, trusting to our country to avenge our death.
No one has reached our camp ; and from the heights we are
able to see troops mustering at St. John's, and preparing can-
non. I thank you for your kindness and good wishes, and
would write more at length, as to my intentions, did I not fear
my letter would be intercepted. We have in no-wise done
wrong to the people, or the authorities of the country, and if
we are hemmed in and assaulted here, we will die, every man
of us, under the flag of our country."

Castro continued his preparations for an attack against our
countrymen, but -he took special care not to crowd them too
closely.

Not wishing, however, to be the cause of embroiling his
nation in difficulties. Captain Fremont determined to abandon
his mission, and return to the United States, rather than con-
tinue it against the opposition of the Mexican authorities.
Accordingly, on the 10th of March, he left his encampment,
and retired towards Oregon, followed some distance by the
forces commanded by the Governor, which amounted to four
hundred men. But the valiant General always avoided com-
ing to an action, and on the same day returned to Monterey,
bringing with him some old clothes and two or three pack-
saddles, all thrown away as useless, when our people struck
their tents. These were paraded as trophies, and the Gover-
nor published a placard, in which he announced, that a band
of highwaymen, under Captain Fremont, of the United States
army, had come into his department, but that he had chased
them out with two hundred patriots, and if they dared to show
themselves again about Monterey, he would march out to

BY THE UNITED STATES. 331

meet them, and destroy them to a man. About the middle
of May, Captain Fremont arrived at the great Hamath Lake,
in the Oregon Territory. He intended to return to the
United States, by the Columbia and Missouri, through the
northern pass in the Rocky Mountains ; but he found his pro-
gress stopped by bands of hostile Indians, who had been
stirred up against him, particularly the Hamath tribe, who
killed and wounded several of his followers, in a night attack.
Two days after, he had another fight with the same Indians,
and destroyed one or two of their villages. It was in this
engagement that Fremont saved Carson's life, as an Indian
was about killing him. Captain Fremont now discovered that
if he persevered in his route, he would have to fight almost
every step of his way, besides marching over mountains on
which the snow was still falling, and though he and his men
were suffering from fatigue and famine, he remained for some
days deliberating upon the proper course to pursue.

From various sources he received information that Governor
Castro was assembling troops, with the avowed object of at-
tacking his party and all the American settlers, because, he
alleged, the Captain had come for the purpose of inciting the
settlers to revolt.

With these facts before him, he at length determined upon
the proper course to pursue, which was to turn back and act
the offensive. On the 11th of June, he struck the first blow.
At day-light on that day he surprised an officer and fourteen
men on the way to the Mexican camp, with two hundred
horses for Castro's army. The horses were retained, and the
officer and the men released. At early dawn on the 15th, the
mihtary rendzevous and intended head-quarters was surprised
by the Americans, who captured there nine pieces of brass
cannon, two hundred and fifty muskets, and other arms and

CONQUEST CF CALIFORNIA

ammunition, a general, a colonel, and many other officers*
The gallant captain left a party of fourteen men here as a gar-
rison, and repaired to the Rio de los Americanos, to obtain aid
from the American settlers. While there an express arrived
from Sonoma, with information of the approach of a large
force under General Castro. He therefore immediately set
out, with a force of ninety horsemen, armed with rifles, and
ti-aveled day and night. He reached Sonoma, after marching
eighty miles, at two o'clock on the morning of the 25th of
June. On the same morning, a squadron of seventy dragoons,
the vanguard of Castro's force, crossed the bay, and were at-
tacked and defeated by a party of twenty Americans, with the
loss of only two men killed. Two of Captain Fremont's men
were taken by the Mexicans, and cut to pieces alive with
knives. The Americans retaliated this cruel and cowardly
act, by instantly shooting three of the enemy whom they had
captured. Having cleared the north side of the bay of San
Francisco of the Mexicans, Captain Fremont called the
Americans together at Sonoma, addressed them upon the
dangers of their situation, and recommended, as their only
means of safety, a declaration of independence and war upon
Castro and his troops. The independence was declared, and
the war followed. A few days afterwards, they heard of the
taking of Monterey by the American Squadron, and the
existence of the war. The Star-spangled Banner was promptly
substituted for that of the Californian revolutionist. The
valiant Castro fled south at the head of nearly five hundred
men, well armed; and Captain Fremont, leaving some fifty
men in garrisons, pursued him with a hundred and sixty rifle-
men. It was at this stage of his proceedings that he met
Purser Fauntleroy, and received Commodore Sloat's request
that he would repair to Monterey. They arrived there on the

BY THE UNITEr STATES. 333

19th of July. Soon after Commodore Sloat resigned the com-
mand of the naval forces to Commodore Stockton, and sailed
for home to recruit his health, which had been enfeebled by
long and arduous services. This gallant and meritorious
officer was highly applauded for his course by the government,
having observed the line of conduct prescribed by his instruc-
tions, "with such intelligence and fidelity,- that no complaint
has ever been made of any anauthorized aggression on his
part."

Commodore Stockton commenced his part of the conquest
by organizing the " California Battalion of Mounted Rifle-
men," appointing their officers, and receiving them into the
service of the United States. Captain Fremont was appointed
Major, and lieutenant Gillespie, Captain of the battalion.
Major Fremont sailed with his battalion, in the United States
ship " Cyane," for San Diego, in the hope of getting in ad-
vance of General Castro, and cutting off his retreat. He
arrived at San Diego on the 29th of July, but the Calif ornians
had driven off all the horses, and consequently he was unable
to move until the 8th of August, when he resumed his pursuit.
Commodore Stockton meanwhile had sailed to San Pedro,
where he landed three hundred and sixty of the sailors belong-
ing to his ship, the frigate " Congress." With this sailor-
army he commenced his march towards the camp of Meza, a
strongly-fortified position held by General Castro, three miles
from the City of the Angels, and the capital of the Cali-
fornians. On the approach of our gallant tars within sight of
the Mexican camp, the General shamefully abandoned it and
fled. His men followed his example, and ran away in all
directions. Major Fremont joined the Commodore on the
13th of August, with eighty mounted riflemen, and the united
forces entered the City of the Angels, and took possession of

834 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA

the Government-house. On the 16th, Major Fremont again
set off in pursuit of Castro, but it was soon found that
the valiant Governor had made good his escape towards
the city of Mexico. Most of his officers, however, were
captured, and brought to the City of the Angels, where
Commodore Stockton had been busy in establishing a civil
government.

The Commodore directed Major Fremont to increase his
force and post it in garrisons in the different places : — Fifty
were to be stationed in the City of the Angels under Cap-
tain Gillespie, fifty at Monterey, fifty at San Francisco,
and twenty-five at Santa Barbara. He embarked for San
Francisco to recruit, making, in the meanwhile, a temporary
disposition of his forces. He took but forty men with
him, and nine of these he left at Santa Barbara, in charge
of Lieutenant Talbot. During his absence, on the 23d of
September, a Californian army invested the City of the
Angels, and by their superior numbers caused Captain Gil-
lespie to surrender that place. He returned with his thirty
rifiemen to San Pedro, and from there sailed for Monterey.
The Californian Chief, Manual Gaspar, then led two hun-
dred of his men against Santa Barbara, but Lieut. Talbot
and his nine men defended themselves with heroic courage.
He held the town until he was completely besieged, and then
refusing to surrender, fought his way through the enemy to
the mountains of the vicinity, where he remained eight days,
suffering from cold and hunger. A detachment of forty men
advanced to take him, but was driven back. They then offered
to permit him to retire, if he would pledge himself and his men
to :'ieutra]ity during the war, but he sent word to the Mexican
Chief that he preferred to fight. At length, finding that
neither force or persuasion would cause him to leave his posi-

BY THE UNITED STATES. 835

tion, they set fire to the grass and brush around him and
burned him out. Still determined not to surrender, he com-
menced a march of five hundred miles to Monterey a-foot,
where his arrival was hailed with the utmost joy by all the
Americans. The brave fellows were welcomed by their com-
panions as from the grave ; for the enemy had reported that
they had all been slain.

Major Fremont had made a,n effort to s;o from San Fran-
cisco to the relief of Captain Gillespie, but he was forced
back to Monterey by bad weather. A few days after the
arrival of Lieutenant TpJbot,*aparty of fifty-seven Americans,
under Captains Burrows and Thompson, were attacked by the
Californians, eighty in number. Captain Burrov/s and three
Americans were slain. Major Fremont marched to their
assistance, and the whole party arrived at San Fernando on
the 11th of January, 1847.

While these events were passing in California, General
Kearney was on his way from the United States, with a force
intended to conquer that country. On the 6th of October, he
met Carson, with fifteen men, coming as an express from the
City of the Angels, with an account of the conquest of that
country by Commodore Stockton and Major Fremont. In con-
sequence of this intelligence, the General sent back the greater
part of his troops. On the 5th of December, he met Captain
Gillespie coming with a small party of volunteers, to give him
information of the state of the country. Captain Gillespie
informed him that there was an armed party of Californians,
with a number of extra horses, encamped at San Pasquel,
three leagues distant. General Kearney immediately set out
to meet them, in the double hope of gaining a victory and a
remount for his poor soldiers, who had completely worn out
their horses in the march from Santa Fe. The Californians

330 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA

were numerous, and a desperate fight ensued, which at one
time well nigh proved fatal to the Americans, their line be-
coming scattered by the sorry condition of the animals on
which some of them Avere mounted. Captain Johnson made
a furious cliarge upon the enemy with the advance guard. He
fell almost in the very commencement of the fight, but the
courage of our countrymen did not flag, and the enemy was
eventually forced to retreat. Captain Moore led off rapidly
in pursuit, but the mules of the dragoons could not keep up
with his horses, and the enemy seeing the break in the line,
renewed the action, and charged with the lance, in the use
of which they are very expert. They fought well, and
the American loss was heavy. General Kearney himself
was wounded in two places. Captain Gillespie and Lieu-
tenant Warner each in three, and Captain Gibson and
eleven others were also wounded, having from two to ten
marks of lances on their bodies. Captain Johnson, Captain
Moore, Lieutenant Hammond, two sergeants, two corporals,
eleven privates, and a man attached to the topographical de-
partment, were slain. The severe w^ounds of the actors in
this fight caused the march of the army to be delayed, and it
did not reach San Diego until the 12th of December.

When Commodore Stockton heard of the outbreak of the
Californians, he dispatched the frigate " Savannah" to relieve
Captain Gillespie, but she arrived too late. Three hundred
and twenty of her crew landed and marched towards the City
of the Angels, but the Californians met them, well appointed
with fine horses and artillery, and though the sailors fought
heroically, they were eventually compelled to retire before
such an overwhelming superiority of numbers. They lost
eleven in killed and wounded. Commodore Stockton came
down himself to San Pedro in the " Congress," and made an-

BY THE UNITED STATES. 337

Other march upon the City of the Angels with a detachment of
sailors, who now took some of the ship's cannons with them,
dragged by hand with ropes. At the Rancho Sepulrida, they
encountered the enemy, who were decoyed by Commodore
Stockton into a favorable position, and then fired upon with
the guns which had been concealed from their view. More than
a hundred were killed, one hundred and fifty wounded, a hun-
dred taken prisoners, and the whole force of the Californians
put to flight. Mounted on horses, while the sailors were on
foot, the enemy had, hitherto, the advantage of choosing his
own time, place, and distance of attack, but the means of
transportation were placed by this splendid victory in the
hands of the sailors, and as soon as they could be mounted, a
series of skirmishes were commenced, in which they displayed
the utmost courage and activity.

Commodore Stockton found General Kearney at San Diego.
This meetiDg was opportune ; and the two commanders im-
mediately proceeded to fix upon a plan for bringing the war to
a speedy termination. On the 29th of December, their forces
composed of sixty dismounted dragoons, fifty California Vol-
unteers, and four hundred sailors and marines, started on the
march from San Diego to the City of the Angels. At the Rio
San Gabriel they found the enemy in a strong position, with
six hundred mounted men and four field pieces, prepared to
dispute the passage of the river. The battle was fought on
the 8th of January, 184T. The Americans waded through
the water under a galHng fire, dragging their guns after them.
They reserved their own fire until they reached the opposite
side of the river ; here they repelled a charge of the enemy,
and then charged up the bank ; and after fighting about one
hour became masters of the field. The enemy made another
stand on the plains of Mera, in the hope of saving the capital ;

CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA

but they were again driven from the field, and on the lOth the
American army entered the capital in triumph. They had
lost one private killed, and thirteen of their number wounded
in the two fights. The enemy carried ofi" their dead and
wounded, so that the extent of theii' loss is unknown, but both
General Kearney and Commodore Stockton estimate it at
between seventy and eighty. The insurgents fled and sur-
rendered to Major Fremont, who met them as he was ap-
proaching the capital.

Major Fremont joined the forces of Kearney and Stockton
at the City of the Angels on the 15th of January, and it was
here the misunderstanding arose between General Kearney and
himself, which for so long a time excited public attention. In
January, 184T, Commodore Shubrick arrived at Monterey,
and assumed the command of the naval forces on that station.
Soon after this Lieutenant-Colonel Cooke joined General
Kearney at San Diego with the Mormon battalion, which
enabled the General to provide against any reinforcements
from the Mexican province of Senoura to the Californians,
by stationing it as a guard and garrison at the Mission of
San Luis Rego. Captain Tompkins arrived in the country in
February, with his company of U. S. Artillery, and was
stationed at Monterey, and the arrival of Colonel Steven-
son, with his regiment of New York Volunteers, formed such,
a force as was considered sufficient to overawe all disaffec-
tion and opposition.

In July, three companies of the New York regiment
were stationed at La Paz, in Lower California, under Lieu-
tenant-Colonel Burton. They numbered about one hundred
men, with two pieces of artillery. The United States sloop-of-
war " Dale" cruised for some time in the vicinity, and afforded
protection to the garrison in La Paz, but Commodore Shu-

BY THE UNITED STATES. 841

brick ordered the " Dale" to Guaymas. This emboldened the
enem}^, who collected all their disposable force and marched
against the little garrison. The battle was begun on the
morning of the IGth, at two o'clock ; a loud roll of musketry,
followed by shouts, gave the sleeping soldiers the first notice
of the enemy's presence. The Americans stood to their posts
amid a shower of bullets, although the night was so dark that
they were unable to see the foe, except by the flashing of the
musketry. They brought their artillery to bear in the direc-
tion of the enemy's position, and a few discharges was followed
by a complete silence. At day-light the enemy was seen to be
posted on a hill near by, waiting until the women and children
had been removed from the town to renew the attack. The
garrison availed themselves of the pause to fortify the roofs of
their quarters with bales of cotton. The enemy gained pos-
session of the bushes surrounding the camp, and kept up a
heavy fire from eight o'clock until night. All the stratagems
of the garrison failed to induce them to come nearer, yet
Colonel Burton lost only one man.

In the afternoon the enemy entered the town, and destroyed
the houses of all who had been favorable to the Americans.
On the 20th they dragged a piece of artillery on the most
commanding site in the town. A hot fire then commenced on
both sides, which resulted in the defeat of the Mexicans.
They had six of their number killed and forty-four wounded,
while the loss of Colonel Burton was only three men. After
this repulse the enemy distributed themselves in the neighbor-
hood, to cut off supplies from the Americans.

Meanwhile a force of nearly four hundred of the insurgents
inarched upon San Jose, where Lieutenant Heywood of the
navy was stationed with twenty men and one nine-pounder.
He was besieged for thirty days, but he refused to surrender,

342 CONQUEST OF CALIFORNIA BY THE U. STATES.

despite of thirst and famine. On the night of the second day,
a grand assault was made. The leader of the Californians,
Mejares, led forty men against the front of the post, Tvhile
more than a hundred men, with scaling-ladders, came upon
the rear. The nine-pounder opened upon them, killed Mejares
and three of his soldiers, and drove the remainder back in
great disorder. A firing was kept up until morning, when two
American whalers entered the harbor, the crews of which
landed, and with this assistance Lieutenant Heywood soon put
the enemy to flight. In the month of October, the frigate
" Congress" and the sloop-of-war " Portsmouth" captured
the town of Guaymas, which was garrisoned by eight hundred
efficient men.

The country now became quiet, and by the terms of the
treaty of peace between the two governments, the boundary
line was made to run along the southern line of New Mexi-
co to its westward termination, thence northwardly along the
western line of New Mexico until it intersects the first branch
of the river Gila, thence down the middle of said branch and
of the said river until it empties into the Rio Colorado, follow-
ing the division-line between Upper and Lower California to
the ocean. Agreeably to this treaty the American forces
abandoned the posts they held in Lower California.

The discovery of Gold in the waters of the Sacramento and
other streams, as also among the rocks and in the mountains,
has drawn to the country thousands of emigrants from the
United States and other parts of the globe, and it bids fair to
become at an early day one of the most populous of the ter-
ritories of the United States.

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU. 343

CHAPTER XXIV.

EAST INDIES,

On the 25th of October I received orders to join the brig
" Oregon ;" this vessel was purchased by Captain Wilkes
after the loss of the " Peacock " for the sum of 9,000 dollars.
She was built in Baltimore, is of 170 tons burthen, was origi-
nally named " Thomas Perkins," came out to the Sandwich
Islands with an assorted cargo, and when purchased was lying
at Astoria taking in a quantity of salmon. In a day or two
after having been purchased, she was stripped, and her masts
lifted and made several feet shorter, after which she pro-
ceeded up to Vancouver, where she underwent some further
alterations and repairs. After these changes were made,
Captain Hudson repaired on board and took command, and on
the 21st of September, she got under-way, in company with
the " Porpoise," and dropped down to Fort George, (Astoria,)
where she laid until the 12th of October, when she sailed" for
San Francisco. Captain Hudson then gave up the command,
and repaired to the " Vincennes," and Lieutenant Overton
Carr was ordered in his stead.

October 31st. At 3.30 P. M. we got under-way in com-
pany with the " Vincennes" and the " Porpoise," and pro-
ceeded to sea. The wind being a-head, we were compelled to
beat, which afforded us a fine opportunity of seeing the Bay.
In one of the stretches we stood on until our jib-boom almost
touched the cliff on which the Precidio is situated. This was

844 FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO HONOLULU.

built b}^ the Spaniards, and while they retained possession of
the country was strongly fortified and well garrisoned.

About 7 P. M.j the flood-tide begun to make, and we were
compelled to let-go the anchor. During the night the weather
w^as thick and disagreeable, and a heavy swell set in from the
westward.

On the morning of November 1st, we again tripped our
anchor. At 11 discovered the " Vincennes" under sail on
our starboard quarter, but soon lost sight of her from the
density of the fog. Nor did we see anythuig of her until about
1 o'clock, when we observed both her and the " Porpoise"
lying at anchor. We wore ship, and bore down for them,
and when close a-board spoke with the " Vincennes." We
then hove-to, and continued to remain so until about half-past
4, when both vessels proceeded to sea, ourselves following in
their wake. In communicating with the " Vincennes," we
learned that she experienced a very uncomfortable night.
Having anchored right over the bar, she felt the swell much
more than either the "Porpoise" or ourselves. She rolled
almost gunwales under, and several seas broke on board, one
of which swept away a portion of her bulwarks, and killed one
of the crew. It is miderstood that we are bound to the Sand-
wich Islands.

On the 6th, the " Vincennes" and " Porpoise" parted
company with us.

On the 8th, we passed over the position of Cooper's Island,
as given upon Arrowsmith's Chart, but saw no indications of
land. At noon our latitude was '25° 45' 55" north, longitude
132° 16' 15" west.

At 11 A. M. on the 19th, we reached Honolulu, where we
found the remainder of the squadron.

Our principal object in returning to Honolulu was, to fill

OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. 345

up with provisions and water. This being accomplished, we
again spread our sails, and on the 22d of January we reached
Singapore, where we found the United States frigate
" Constellation," Commodore Kearney, and the sloop-of-war
" Boston," Captain Long, formmg the East India Squadron.
We communicated with both vessels, and received some late
newspapers from them.

The Island of Singapore is twenty- seven miles long, and
from five to fifteen miles wide. It is separated from the penin-
sula of Malacca by the Strait of Singapore, formerly followed
by navigators, instead of the one which is now universally
used. We were informed that the interior of the island is
infested with tigers, and that it is a common thing for the in-
habitants to be destroyed by them within a few miles of the
town. Owing to these attacks, the Government has been in-
duced to offer a premium of fifty dollars for every tiger that
should be killed, and parties have been organized, which fre-
quently go out to hunt these ferocious animals.

The situation of the town* is low, for which reason it does
not appear to advantage from the anchorage. It covers a great
extent of ground, and many of the buildings are spacious, and
built in the European style. The Governor's dwelling is situ-
ated on the summit of a knoll which overlooks the city and
harbor. In the rear of the European buildings are the loca-
tions of the Malay and Chinese quarters. The houses of the
former are built on posts rising four or five feet above the
ground. The object of this is to keep the houses dry during
the rainy seasons, and to prevent reptiles and other noxious
animals from entering them.

As for the inhabitants, a more motley crowd in color and

• The tows: bears the same nam6 as the island.

846

EAST INDIES.

costume cannot well be conceived. The language of nearly
every Asiatic nation throws its peculiar accents on the ear.

The trades, like most of the eastern cities, are carried on in
the streets. Some of the streets are exclusively inhabited by
castes who work at the same trade. In one may be seen
the workmen in brass and copper, which department of trade
generally embraces the manufacture of cooking-pans, lamps,
and drinking vessels, and similar articles of domestic use ; for
all these things are made of copper and brass, and hammered
out to the proper size and shape by manual labor. In another
street, you see the palankeen builders, house-joiners, cabinet-
makers, shoemakers, tailors, blacksmiths, and so on. The
money-changers take up their position at the corner of the
streets, with their little tables before them ready to transact
business at a moment's notice. These men act sometimes in
the capacity of pawnbrokers, by lending small sums of money
upon the gold and silver ornaments which all here possess in
a greater or less degree. The opium vender has also his little
table in the public street, with his box and scales upon it, and
tempting samples of the " dreamy drug."

This fearful species of intoxication is more generally prac-
tised among the people of British India, than has been com-
monly supposed. The Mohammedans are particularly addicted
to its use, and much of the apathy and indifference observable
in the native character, may be attributed to this universal
evil, which would seem to be daily gaining ground among
them. Few can be surprised that the Emperor of China is
so anxious to prevent the importation of opium* into his do-

• The engrossing taste of all ranks and degrees in China, for opium, a drug
whose importation has of late years exceeded the aggregate value of every other
English import combined, deserves some particular notice, especially in connection
with the revenues of British India, of which it forms an important item. The
use of this pernicious narcotic has become as extensive as the increasing demand
for it was rapid from the Qt?\— Chinese Ecposifory

OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. 347

minions by the English. Well might this monarch regard
that potent drug as a curse to a nation, which has already-
begun to suffer from its dangerous seduction, and which shows
for it a decided taste.

A single glance of these opium dealers will convince you
that they are their own best customers. Their soiled and dis-
orderly dress, the palsied hand and pale cheek, the sunken
eye and vacant stare of each of these wretched men, show
you that they are not themselves.

The Chinese Bazaar is filled with goods manufactured in
that industrious country. Here you may purchase beautiful
Canton shawls, for fifteen or twenty dollars, rich silks and
satins, carved ivory-work in chessmen, backgammon boxes,
card-cases, grass-cloth handkerchiefs, vases, chimney-piece
ornaments, tea-pots, and the familiar little tea-cups and sau-
cers so highly esteemed by the ladies. There are also found
here camphor-wood trunks, so useful to preserve clothing,
books, and furs, from the white ants, which are so destructive
to this sort of property.

But in trading with the Chinese, it is necessary to be care-
ful. They call all Europeans " foreign devils," and consider
them a fair game. But the greatest cheats among them are
those who come off to the ships to sell their goods, as these
not only ask the highest prices, but invariably give you a bad
article.

The Chinese are very numerous in Singapore, and all seem
to be industrious. They dress after the manner of their
country ; and we saw some whose queus almost touched the
ground. It is said that they return home as soon as they
have acquired something like a competency, though they run
the risk of being punished by the Emperor, for having left
China. They have a popular saying, " If he, who attains to

348 OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES.

honors or wealth, never returns to his native place, he is like
a finely-dressed person T\-alking in the dark — it is all thrown
awa3\"

The extent to which they carried gaming, after the regulai
business hours were over, could not fail to attract our atten-
tion. Gaming was going on in all their shops and houses, and
their whole soul seemed to be staked with their money. They
use cards and dice ; but their games are different from oui
own. The stake in general was a small copper coin, not
larger than a dime. It was also observed, that they are pas-
sionately fond of theatrical entertainments. These take place
under a temporary shed, which is only large enough to accom-
modate the performers. The interior is decorate^ with silk
hangings, and illuminated with many colored lamps. The
stage is furnished with a table and chairs, but without scenicai
decorations to assist the story, as in our theatres. The actors
are magnificently dressed in silk and gold cloth, adorned with
jewels. The females are represented by young men. I
cannot say much for the acting, or music ; the former appeared
stiff, the latter a perfect jargon.

One day I visited their principal Josh-house, or temple.
It is a very singular-looking edifice ; the roof is surmounted
with dragons, and a thousand of other whimsical devices.
The columns supporting the front are likewise very curiously
sculptured. It has no windows ; and the main entrance, in-
stead of being in the centre of the building, is near one of the
corners. Its interior may be described as a square court, sur-
rounded by a portico filled with niches, containing the wooden
images to which adoration is paid. The space in the centre
of the court is paved and furnished with seats, which are
occupied by thx) worshipers. All the idols are representations
of th^, human form in its most bulky aspect ; they seemed to

OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. 349

have quite as much circumference as height. One of them
was a female figure, dressed in silks, and painted, with much
tinsel and gilding about the head. In front of each idol were
altars, on which w^ere Josh-sticks burning, colored wax-candles,
floAvers, dried fruits, and sugar-plums wrapped up in colored
paper. At the time I entered, the priesthood, five in number,
were assembled, worshiping, chanting, striking gongs, and
frequently prostrating themselves before their wooden-deities.
This mummery lasted nearly half an hour, and the priests ap-
peared to go through it with devotion. They were all young
men, had the crown of their heads shaved, and wore long
yellow robes. As soon as the mummery had ceased, they left
the temple, retired to their private apartments, and divested
themselves of their official robes ; and the gods were left to
themselves, with the Josh-sticks burning on the altars.

On another day I set out to visit the Mohammedan Mosque,
but I found the entrance of this guarded by two or three
stupid-looking fellows, who would not allow me admittance,
although I offered to take off my shoes before entering. It is
a neat, handsome building externally, but only the upper por-
tion of it can be seen when viewed from the street, as it stands
at the further end of a long court, surrounded by a high stone
wall. Its mineret is kept white-washed, and forms a beautiful
and a conspicuous object in the landscape.

The majority of the Mohammedans at Singapore are
Malays and their descendants, and it is universally conceded
by travelers that they constitute the most worthless part of
the population, being excessively lazy, treacherous, quarrel-
some, and addicted to the use of opium.

The color of their skin is several shades darker than that
of the Chinese, and they usually wear moustaches and beard.
Their dress consists of a white turbe.n, a shirt with very

850 OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES.

ample sleeves, a colored embroidered vest, fitting tight to the
body, loose trowsers made of white cotton cloth, and yellow
or red slippers. To beautify themselves, they. chew the betal-
nut, which causes their teeth to become as black as ebony.
They make good soldiers, or sepoys, and many of them are
employed to act in that capacity by the British East India
Government. The women, who are not so much exposed to
the rays of the sun, are less tawny than the men ; their coun-
tenance is comely, their hair black and fine ; they have a deli-
cate hand, brilliant eyes, and a graceful figure.

There are many Parsees residing in Singapore, and some
of the best shops are kept by them ; they prefer trading in
English and French goods, which they have consigned to them,
or purchase at the auctions. Some of them have acquired
large fortunes, and live in a princely style. They are a hand-
some race, and there is an easy grace about all their move-
ments. The ladies pass their fives in great seclusion from
the world, for they are supposed to lose caste if they appear in
public.

The Persic language is celebrated for its strength, beauty,
and melody, and they write it from the right to the left.

The Parsees* do not tolerate polygamy, unless the first wife
prove barren, nor do their laws allow concubinage. They
cannot eat or drink out of the same vessel with one of a dif-
ferent religion, nor are they fond even of using the cup of
another, for fear of partaking of his sins. Their religion,
however, admits of proselytism. They have no fasts, and re-
ject everything of the nature of penance. God, they say,
delights in the happiness of his creatures ; and they hold it
meritorious to enjoy the best of everything they can obtain.

* The Hindoos say the Persees are outcasts of Persia ; but this they indignantly
4epy, though it is supposed many of them were driven out in the eighth century.

OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES. o5l

Birds and beasts of prey, the dog and the hare, are forhiddea
as food. Their faith inculcates general benevolence, to be
honest in bargains, to be kind to one's cattle, and faithful to
masters ; to give the priests their due, physicians their fees,
and these last are enjoined to try their sanitory experiments
on infidels before practising on Parsees. They never willingly
throw filth either into fire or water. This reverence for the
elements prevents them from being sailors, as in a long voyage
they might be forced to defile the sea.

When a relation is dying, they recite over him prescribed
prayers, and have a dog at hand to drive away the evil spirits
that flock around the bed ; after death the body is dressed
in old but clean clothes, and conveyed on an iron frame to the
tomb on the shoulders of the bearers, who are tied togetner
with a piece of tape, in order to deter the demons, which are
supposed to be hovering near, from molesting the corpse. It
is well known that they neither burn nor bury their dead.
They have circular towers called dockmehs, in which are con-
structed inclined planes, and on these they expose the bodies,
courting the fowls of the air to feed upon them. They even
draw augeries regarding the happiness or misery of the de-
ceased, according as the left eye or the right eye is first picked
out by the vultures.

There are s»^veral pleasant rides about Singapore The sur-
rounding couiitry is interspersed with groves and gardens,
and the roads are good, and free from dust, for almost
every day in the year the island is visited by one or two re-
freshing showers. The vehicle most used is the palankeen,
which is capable of containing two persons ; it is drawn by a
single horse, and the driver, who is usually a Malay, runs by
the side of a carriage ; the charge for a whole day is a dollar,
and it is customary to give something to the driver.

a52 OBSERVATIONS ON SINGAPORE, EAST INDIES.

There are good markets in Singapore for the sale of butcher's
meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables. Everj^thing in the shape of
food is very cheap, and our mess bill was as small here as at
any place we visited in the course of our long cruise.

Some idea may be formed of the commerce of Singapore,
when it is stated, that, for the last two or three years, it has
been valued at |25,000,000. It is a free port ; there are no
duties on imports or exports, and every vessel is allowed to
come and go when it pleases. There are many articles shipped
here which are the products of other places; among these
are opium, nutmegs, cloves, coffee, sugar, teas, and a variety
of shells. Business is conducted upon a sure basis ; payment
must be made at the delivery of the goods. Accounts are
kept in dollars and cents, and almost every thing is sold by
weight.

On the 25th of February we sailed for St. Helena, where
we arrived after a pleasant passage of thirteen days.

CHAPTER XXV.

FROM ST. HELENA TO THE UNITED STATES.,

The appearance -whicli St. Helena presents, when viewed
from the ocean, is anything but inviting; nearly the whole
of its coast is steep and perpendicular like a wall, dotted here
and there with miserably stunted trees.

The island was discovered by the Portuguese on the 21st
of May, in the year 1502, and was called by them St. Helena,
from the fact that the same day was the anniversary of the
Empress Helena, a Saint in the Roman Catholic calendar.

In a valley, where they found a productive soil and abun-
dance of excellent water, the discoverers planted a small
colony ; they also stocked the valley with goats, horses, cattle,
and many other animals useful to man, which soon multiplied
and spread over the whole island.

About the year 1651, the English East India Company
took possession of the island, it having been abandoned some
time before by the Dutch, who took it from the Portuguese in
the early part of the 17th century. The English introduced
into the island, as the Portuguese had done before them,
horses, sheep, grains and fruits. Tempting inducements were
held out to emigrants, and many were induced to settle in its
rich and romantic valleys.

In 1815, the island became the involuntary residence of
Napoleon, a circumstance which has shed over it undying in-
terest, and rendered its name in every part of the civilized
globe as familiar as a household word.

354 ST. HELENA.

The island remained in the hands of the East India Com-
pany until 1836, when it was transferred to the British
Government.

The climate is salubrious. One old voyager who describes
it, informs us that the sick men who had been carried on
shore in hammocks, and utterly unable to walk, were cured
and made perfect in a week's time, and were soon able to
" leap and dance " as well as their companions. All of which
wonderful effects were attributed the wholesomeness of the air,
and the fresh trade-winds constantly sweeping over the island,
and driving away all distempers.

The population is estimated at five thousand, and consists
of whites, negroes, mulattoes, and Chinese. The negroes were
brought to the island by the East India Company from Mada-
gascar, and were treated as slaves until the year 1823 ; they
and their descendants now form the largest portion of the
population.

Vessels going to and from the East Indies usually touch
at the island to replenish their stock of water and procure
fresh provisions.

Jamestown, the capital, is the largest town that the island
can boast of, and is a free port. It is situated in a valley,
or rather a gorge between two lofty hills, both of which ter-
minate abruptly, and form the eastern and western boundaries
of the town, as also a small bay in which the vessels anchor
that visit the place. The harbor is defended by fortifica-
tions, which cover the shore from the water-line to the highest
peaks. A ladder, of nearly a perpendicular height, is built
up the side of the western mountain, called Ladder Hill. It
is said to have five hundred steps in it, and is a conspicuous
object from the anchorage.

The landing is convenient for visitors and trade ; it is fur-

VISIT TO napoleon's TOMB. 356

nished with a stone stairs and a crane for loading and unload-
ing boats. From the landing a good road leads toward the
town at the mouth of the valley, which is protected from an
attack by sea by a ditch and a high massive wall, bristling
with guns.

There is but one entrance into the town, and that is closed
at nightfall. There are also sentinels stationed here at all
hours. Just beyond the gateway is the grand parade, around
which stand the church, the principal hotel of the place, and
the building occupied by Napoleon on his first landing.

The houses are from one to two stories in height, and have
their walls painted white or yellow. Some of them are also
furnished with verandahs.

The market is good, but meats and eggs are excessively
dear. The price for beef is 20 cents per lb. ; mutton, 18
cents ; eggs, 50 cents per dozen.

Of course, before leaving the island, we rode out to Long-
wood, and the tomb. Our conveyance was a covered carriage,
drawn by a pair of horses, and just large enough to accommo-
date two persons comfortably.

The road we pursued, and there is no other leading to the
tomb from the town, is cut on the side of the eastern hill,
which gradually rises to an elevation of upwards of a thousand
feet. This afforded us several fine views of Jamestown — We
could see all the houses, the gardens, the soldiers' hospital,
the barracks, the church, the botanic garden, and the grand
parade.

After leaving the town we did not fall in with a solitary
tree until we reached the head of the valley. Here the soil is
capable of cultivation, and we passed many a garden in which
were to be seen, besides a great variety of vegetables, trelisses
of vines, from which depended clusters of the tempting and

356 ST. HELENA.

delicious fruit, peach, almond and date trees, and patches of
flowers, among which the rose and pink were conspicuous.
We likewise observed on our right and left, but some miles in
the distance, a succession of hills in wood, looking verdant,
cool and beautiful.

The next object which attracted our attention was the
" Briars," a little hamlet, composed of some half-dozen cot-
tages, one of which was the residence of the ex-Emperor, until
Longwood could be prepared for his reception. It is a small,
quaint building, with a high, steep roof, gable ends, and a
verandah. The grounds attached to it are also of limited ex-
tent, and surrounded by a common stone- wall. Indeed, there
is scarcely a New England farmer whose abode is not superior
to it in every respect. Yet I was informed by the inhabitants
that Napoleon preferred the place to better houses in the
town, where he would be annoyed by the curiosity of the
populace.

The road beyond the " Briars " is winding, and presents a
great variety of landscape. In one place it sweeps by thick
hedges, inclosing fields in which sheep, cattle, and horses are
feeding ; in another, it passes through dark masses of fir and
pine ; in another, it runs down into a deep ravine ; and in
another again, it traverses a plain overshadowed with trees
and sprinkled with cottages, looking so neat and prim that one
cannot help envying their owners, and wish that he could
share with them the delights which such charming abodes must
afford.

Not many yards distant from these sylvan residences, lies a
dell, shut in by hills, covered with grass and brambles. At
tlie foot of the most lofty hill stands a lonely cottage, sur-
rounded by trees — a little beyond the solitary dwelling,
araong some weeping willows, and two or three melancholy

VISIT TO napoleon's TOMB. 357

cypress, is the Tomb. The spot is private property, belonging
to the widow lady, Mrs. Talbot, who occupies the cottage, and
who furnishes visitors with refreshments. There is a poetic
effusion in the " Visitors' Book," alluding to the circumstance
last mentioned : —

s «' There you "will find an excellent cheer,

Bread and cheese, and ale and beer ;
And -while Mrs. T. gives bread and butter,
Its my intention never to cut her."

One end of the iron railing round the Tomb is open for the
purpose of admitting visitors. The grave remains uncovered,
or just as the French left it when they exhumed the body.

" Napoleon 's gone ! the Island Tomb
No more his corpse contains ;
A prince and noble ship have come,
And taken his remains. '^'

What remained of the original willows planted by the hand
of Madame Bertrand around the Tomb, were carried away by
Prince Joinville, as well as the slabs that closed the recess in
which the coffin was placed. The Tomb is carried only a few
feet above the ground, and is utterly devoid of ornament ; nor
does it bear any date, name, or inscription. The location is a
very appropriate one, but the tomb itself excites our disgust
and indignation, for the inference is, that the enemies of
Napoleon sought to gratify their animosity after his death, by
Insulting his remains, than which nothing can be more despi-
cable and unmanly. The slabs taken away by Prince Join-
ville formed a part of the kitchen -hearth of the house at
Longwood !

Mrs. Talbot resided at the cottage while the Emperor was
living, and she informed us that the site of the grave was

358 ST. HELENA.

chosen by himself. She also pointed out to us the spring nvjar
the cottage, which supplied him with water up to the day of
his death.

One pleasant afternoon while walking through the grounds,
Napoleon observed the spring, admired its beautiful pebbly
bottom, dipped up some of the water with his hand, and drank
it, found it to be delightfully cool, refreshing, and delicious ;
he requested that while he lived he might be allowed to obtain
all his water from the same spring, and the favor was
granted.

Mrs. Talbot hinted to us, as she had done before about the
refreshments, that it was customary for visitors to purchase
some of the water by way of paying her for seeing the Tomb,
and we were not slow in taking the hint. Each of us filled
a quart bottle with the precious liquid, for which she received
several dollars. We had also to satisfy the demands of the
garrulous old sergeant who exhibits the Tomb, so that alto-
gether it was expensive sight-seeing.

The old fellow's account, rattled off as it was by him,
amused me much, and I took care to write it down on the
spot. The following is a correct copy of the original : —
'' Misters, how d'ye do? Fine day to see sights, gentlemen.
Well, misters, here's the railing round the ground, and there's
the paling round the tomb, eight feet deep, six feet long, and
three feet wide. Napoleon was buried in three coffins, one in
another — his head was here — his feet was there ; he was
dressed in a green coat, white breeches, and jack-boots — beau-
tifully polished, with his cocked hat between his legs, and his
heart in a silver pot at his feet. All the island came to the
funeral, and the soldiers fired a royal salute. These are not
the willers that have been taken away, but I have got some
slips from the real tree in charge of my good woman — will j^ou

VISIT TO NAPOLEON'S TOMB. 359

come and look at them, misters 1 They are the best that can
be had, mister. That's a fine one ; yes, indeed, h 'ill grow
— stick him in this bottle ; its worth two shillings, any man's
money, but you may have it for one. Hum ! thank you, mis-
ter, and God bless you, and all like you. This is the spring,
and that's the water; here's a mug to taste; oh! it is
cool, just as Napoleon used to drink it, when he came here
afore he was buried, to play with Madame Bertrand's chil-
dren, and read there where the willers used to stand what are
gone now, the present time. Here's the Visitors' Book, what
they write their names in — here, this way, in the sentry-box —
here's the ink, and there's the pen ; please to write your
name, all you gentlemen — A-hem ! — it is full of poetry in all
kinds of lingoes. See, misters, for yourself. I once could
read a little, but now I am very old — A-hem! — Misters,
when you got your names in the book — a-hem ! — please give a
trifle for showing ; this way, sir. Thank ye, sir — you are
fine gentlemen — good day."

From the Tomb we proceeded to Longwood, which we
reached in less than half an hour. The road is good, and
occasionally ofiers pieces of landscape, which are singularly
wild and romantic. On our way we passed " Hut's Gate,"
which for some time was the residence of General Bertrand.
At this retired spot Napoleon passed many a pleasant hour in
the society of his faithful friend and family. It is stated that
he was very fond of the General's children, and frequently
joined them in their sports.

On reaching the gate at Longwood we were required to pay
an admission fee of fifty cents for each person. A retired
army officer has obtained a lease of the place from the
government, and by his order the entrance fee is demanded
before the gate is opened.

300 ST. HELENA

Longwood is a long narrow field, interspersed with clumps
of fii's and gumwood trees. The house in which the ex-Em-
peror spent the last years of his strange and varied life, the
stables, the fences, everything is sadly neglected, and, ere
another quarter of a century passes away, nothing will be left
of the scene but a pile of ruins. The house is built of wood,
and was once painted green. It has a small trellised porch
before the main entrance, is ascended by one or two wooden
steps, almost entirely overgrown with moss and grass, and the
sides of the building are covered with names, initials, dates,
and lines of poetry. Viewed externally, it appears an exten-
sive pile, but many of the buildings now seen on the spot
were not there during the life of Napoleon; they were
brought from the surrounding country, where they had served,
for the soldiers stationed there to watch the Emperor and
prevent his escape. He was allowed to walk and ride at
almost any hour he pleased, but he could not stir without
being seen from some of the numerous observation-towers
erected on the neighboring hills. About a mile from Long-
wood was a large encampment of soldiers. At dusk they
mounted guard, and the place was surrounded by sen-
tinels.

We looked into the rooms; they are small and badly
lighted — the wood-work much decayed — the walls scribbled
over, and the floors covered with dust and filth. The room in
which the Emperor breathed his last is occupied by a huge
winnowing machine, and was strewed with chafi" and straw.
The apartment in which he laid in state after his death, is
now used as a stable. The library serves as a hen-house, and
we found it filled with chickens and turkeys. His bed-room,
like all the rest, is sadly dilapidated, and the window which
lighted it is boarded up. Taken altogether, it is a pile of

VISIT TO napoleon's TOMB. 361

universal ruin, doomed, as I have before observed, at no
distant time to entirely disappear.

There are no traces remaining of the gardens, but the
little-fish pond is still in tolerable preservation. It is asserted
that before the Emperor's own earthly career was closed, all
the fishes sickened and died, and that the incident deeply
afiected him, for he sought amusement in attending them
himself, and watching their gambolings. When the last
little favorite was gone, he exclaimed, "Yes, everything I
love, everything that belongs to me is immediately struck.
Heaven and mankind unite to afflict me."

Not many paces distant from the crumbling and deserted
building we have been describing, may be seen the new resi-
dence built for the use of Napoleon. It is constructed of
yellow sand-stone, one story in height, and stands on the de-
clivity of a gently sloping hill. The house is much larger
and more convenient than the old one ; but he took a strong
dislike to it, and would never occupy it. The grounds are
rather pretty, and the whole is surrounded with a neat stone-
wall, surmounted by an iron-railing. It was the sight of these
walls and iron-rails that gave the Emperor such disgust for
the new residence ; for, he said they would constantly remind
him he was a prisoner-of-war. We found the building occu-
pied by Lieutenant Smith, of the Artillery, who had charge of
the Magnetic Observatory.

It may be interesting to add to this description the follow-
ing particulars. Napoleon and his suite arrived at St. Helena
on the 15th of October, 1815, under charge of Admiral Cock-
burn. It is stated the island was first suggested as a suitable
place of confinement for the fallen Emperor by the Duke of
Wellington, who had been there himself, and was forcibly
impressed with its natural strength.

302 ST. HELENA.

Immediately the royal captive was delivered over to Sir
Hudson Lowe, who was made responsible for his security.
This officer received all his orders relative to the treatment
of Napoleon from the ministry, and was not allowed to exer-
cise any discretion in the execution of them.

On the 5th of May, 1821, the great man departed this life ;
his body was subjected to a post mortem examination, and it
was discovered that he died of cancer of the stomach.

He expired amidst a tempest of wind and rain.

' Dark was the night, and wild the storm,

And loud the torrents roar ;
And loud the sea was heard to dash
Against the distant shore."

Many trees were laid prostrate by the storm, and among
the rest his favorite willow, beneath whose shade he often sat
reading, or wrapt up in meditation.

On the 9th of May, he was buried with military honors.
It was his dying wish to repose in France. After a lapse of
nearly twenty years his request was complied with ; England
then gave her consent to his removal, and the frigate " Belle
Poule," under the command of Prince Joinville, was dis-
patched to St. Helena by the French Government to fulfill
the mission. Among the men that accompanied the Prince,
were four who were devoted friends of the Emperor, and lived
with him in his captivity — Marchand, Gourgaud, Las Casses,
and Bertrand.

After the coffin was disinterred, it was conveyed to a tent
prepared for its reception. There it was opened, and the
mortal remains of Napoleon were found unchanged. He
seemed asleep, so perfect were all his features. His old
friends beheld him there just as they had placed him some

ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 363

twenty years before ; and it is almost impossible for language
to describe their emotion. They kissed the coflBn again and
again, and streams of tears flowed down their* cheeks.

Amid the roar of guns and other martial honors the body
was embarked, and on the 18th of October, 1840, the " Belle
Poule " weighed her anchors, and sailed for France.

On the arrival of the frigate at Brest, the body was con-
veyed to Paris, and there reinterred beneath the Tomb of the
Invalides.

From St. Helena we proceeded to Rio Janiero. Here we
remained several days, during which we replenished our stock
of water and provisions. Leaving Rio Janeiro, we shaped
our course for New York, where we arrived on the 3d of July,
after having been absent from home and friends three years
and eleven months.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX. 367

Commercial Regulations, made by the principal
Chiefs of the Samoa Group of Islands, after full
consideration in Council, on the 5th day of
November, 1839. — Printed at Samoa Group of
Islands, 1840.

Article 1st. All Consuls duly appointed, and received in
Samoa, shall be protected, both in their persons and property,
and all foreigners obtaining the consent of the government,
and conforming to the laws, shall receive the protection of the
government.

Article 2d. All foreign vessels shall be received into
the ports and harbors of Samoa, for the purpose of obtaining
supplies, and for commerce ; and with their officers and crews,
so long as they comply with these regulations, and behave
themselves peaceably, shall secure the protection of the Gov-
ernment.

Article 3d. The fullest protection snail be given to all
foreign ships and vessels which may be wrecked ; and any
property saved, shall be taken possession of by the Consul of
the country to which the vessel belongs, who will allow a sal-
vage, or portion of the property so saved, to those who may
aid in saving, and protecting the same, and no embezzlement
wi4r be permitted under any circumstances whatever. The
effects of all persons deceased, shall be given up to the Consul
of the nation to which they may have belonged.

368 APPENDIX.

Article 4th. Any person guilty of the crime of murder,
upon any foreigner^ shall be given up without delay to the
Commander of any public vessel of the nation, to Avhich the
deceased may have belonged, upon his demanding the same.

Article 5th. Every vessel shall pay a Port-charge of five
dollars, for anchorage and water, before she will be allowed to
receive refreshments on board ; and shall pay for pilotage in
and out, the sum of seven dollars before she leaves the harbor ;
and pilots shall be appointed, subject to the approval of the
Consuls.

Article 6th. No work shall be done on shore, nor shall
any natives be employed on board vessels on the Sabbath day,
under a penalty of ten dollars, unless under circumstances of
absolute necessity.

Article Tth. All trading in spirituous liquors, or landing
the same, is strictly forbidden. Any person offending, shall
pay a fine of twenty-five dollars, and the vessel to which he
belongs shall receive no more refreshments. Any spirituous
liquors found on shore shall be seized and destroyed.

Article 8th. All deserters from vessels wdll be appre-
hended, and a reward paid, of five dollars, to the person who
apprehends him; and three dollars to the Chief of the dis-
trict in which he may be apprehended, shall be paid on his
delivery to the proper officer of the vessel. No Master shall
refuse to receive such deserter, under a penalty of twenty-five
dollars. Deserters taken after the vessel has sailed, shall be
delivered up to the Consul, to be dealt with as he may think
fit. Any person who entices another to desert, or in any way
assists him, shall be subject to a penalty of five dollars, or
one month's hard labor on the public roads.

Article 9th. No Master shall land a passenger without
permission of the Government under a penalty of twenty-five

APPENDIX. 369

dollars, and no individual shall be permitted to land or reside
on the Samoa Group of Islands, without the special permission
of the Government. Any one so landing, shall be compelled
to leave by the first opportunity.

Article 10th. If a sick person be left on shore from any
vessel, for the recovery of his health, he shall be placed under
charge of the Consul, who shall be responsible for his sick
expenses, and will send him away by the first opportunity after
his recovery.

Article 11th. Any seaman remaining on shore after
9 o'clock at night, shall be made a prisoner until the next
morning, when he shall be sent on board, and shall pay a
penalty of five dollars.

Article 12th. All fines to be paid in specie, or its equi-
valent, or be commuted by the Government, at the rate of one
month's hard labor on the public roads for five dollars.

Article 13th. Should the Master of any vessel refuse to
comply with any of these regulations, a statement of the case
shall be furnished to the nation, or the Consul of the nation
to which he belongs, and redress sought from thence.

Article 14th. All Magistrates, or Chiefs of districts,
where vessels or boats may visit, shall enforce the rules and
regulations relative to the landing of foreigners and appre-
hension of deserters, or pay such fine as the Malo shall
impose.

Article 15th. For carrying into effect the foregoing
rules and regulations, the Chiefs and tula fale of the respec-
tive districts, shall meet and elect one of their number to act
as Magistrate or Judge, to execute the laws.

Article 16th. These regulations shall be printed, pro-
mulgated, and a copy furnished to the master of each vessel
visiting these Islands.

670 APPENDIX.

Similar regulations were adopted by the Fejee Chiefs,

omitting the 6th, 9th, 10th, 12th, and 15th Articles, and
signed by the following chiefs : —

Their Their

Ro X TANOA, Ro X MATANABABA,

Ro X TUIDREKEXr Ro X VEIBALIYAKI,

Philips X Cokanauto, Ro X ligalevu,

Ro X NAVUNIVALU, Ro X KALAI,

Ro X KOROITIUSAVAU, Ro X VAKACOKAI.

Ro X QUARANIGIO,

Marks .

Done in Council by the principal Kings and Chiefs of the
Fejee Group, this 10th day of June, 1840. The foregoing
Rules and Regulations having been signed by the Kings and
Chiefs in my presence, and submitted to me, I consider them
just and proper, and shall forward to the American Govern-
ment a copy of the same for the information of all masters
of vessels visiting the Fejee Group of Islands.

(Signed) Charles Wilkes,

Commanding U. States

Exploring Expedition.

U. S. ship " Vincennes,"
Harbor of Ban, June 10th, 1840.

In presence of

Wm. L. Hudson, commanding U. S. ship *^ Peacock,"
Commander Ringgold, commanding U. S. brig '' Porpoise,''
R. R. Waldron, U. S. Navy,
B. VanderforDj Pilot.

APPENDIX. S7:

Names of the persons composing the Expedition to Alta
California : —

Lieutenant Emmons,

Passed Midshipman Eld,

Passed Midshipman Colvocoresses,

Assistant-Surgeon Whittle,

J. R. Peale, Naturalist,

J. D. Dana, Geologist,

W. R. Rich, Botanist,

A. J. Agate, Artist,

J. D. Brackenridge, Assistant-Botanist,

Sergeant Stearns,

Corporal Hughes,

Privates Smith and Marsh,

Doughty, Sutton, Merzer, and Waltham, Seameiu

Baptist Guardipi, Guide,

Tibbats, Black, Wood, Warfield, olan, and Inass,
Hunters,

Mr. Walker and family, emigrating to California^

Mr. Barrows, wife and child, do. do.

Mr. Nichols,

Mrs. Warfield and child.

The whole party numbered thirty-nine, with seventy-six
animals, thirty-two of which were Government property.

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