The Fox Hound By Roger D, Williams V ' JOHNA.SEAVERNS I Uri3 umvtHSIIT LIBHAHItb 3 9090 013 412 032 Webster Family Library of Veterinary Medicine Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University 200 Westboro Road North Grafton, MA 01 536 THE FOXHOUND CHAMPION-SCRAPE, FIELD-TRIAL-WINNER, BRED AND OWNED BY THE AUTHOR ' ill Py it FULL ENGLISH FOXHOUND GALLIARD, IMPORTED BY THE AUTHOR THE FOXHOUND BY ROGER D. WILLIAMS Author of "Horse and Hound," *'The Blood- hound," Etc. HANDBOOKS Number 38 NEW YORK OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY MCMXIV TO FG VJ5 Copyright, 1914, bt OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY All rights reserved CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE Foreword ....... 5 I. The Foxhound 13 II. Breeding and Training Hounds 27 III. Training and Hunting . . 39 IV. Feeding 63 V. Kennels 73 VI. Diseases and Remedies ... 87 VII. The Bench Show . . . .113 VIII. Dont's 119 Glossary of Technical Terms 127 Foxhound Field Trial . ,. .130 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE CHampion Scrape — English Fox- hound, Galliard .... Frontispiece Typical American Foxhound . . . 16 Plan of Kennels and Yard .... 75 FOREWORD FOXHUNTING is not only a recreation and amusement, but the science of an art in which but few obtain proficiency. It is one of the few sports that is not more or less tainted with professionalism. My experiences in the field and saddle during a quarter of a century of breeding and hunting hounds are given herein, and I trust may prove of benefit to the rapidly increasing devotees of a sport that eminently encourages companionable qual- ities in man, is conducive to good health, and is frequently the means of cementing lifelong friendships. This book is written more for the benefit of the country gentlemen of moderate means who 11 rides to hunt " than for the fashionable an- glomaniac with money who " hunts to ride " and thinks foxhunting a most fascinating and enviable pursuit in the abstract. THE FOXHOUND CHAPTER I THE FOXHOUND THE character, sensibilities, and intellect- ual faculties of the Foxhound are but little known; they are, unfoitunately, considered rather stupid and uninteresting than otherwise by the majority of the people in this country, especially those unacquainted with the mysteries of hound lore. In England for hundreds of years they have been held in the highest esteem for their splendid intelligence, their inexhaustible courage, and unequaled en- durance, qualities that are indispensable in add- ing to the pleasure of her sportsmen, and there is no gainsaying the fact that the popularity of the hound has rapidly increased in this country during the past quarter of a century. The origin of the breed is clouded somewhat in mystery. Being lost in remote antiquity, it has been the subject of debate and deep re- search among sportsmen from time immemorial. 13 14 THE FOXHOUND However, it is generally conceded to be the result of judicious crossing between the Blood- hound and the ancient Greyhound. This un- doubtedly is true, as a first cross of the same breeds to-day will produce a hound with many of the characteristics and qualities of the Fox- hound. As to the antiquity of the Foxhound, if the writings of Gervase Markham in 1631 are to relied upon, hounds were used in the chase of the fox as early as 16 13. Our old time native Foxhounds were un- doubtedly degenerated Bloodhounds, and to the infusion of English, Irish, and French blood are we indebted for the vast improvement, es- pecially in conformation, size, and some of the better qualities. It is generally understood that they were imported from England, but exactly when and by whom we have no authentic re- cord. While believing that they are largely descended from the English hound, there is no doubt in my mind that the French hound plays equally as important a part in their origin. Lafayette sent over a large pack of French hounds, this being the first pack of hounds we have any record of as having been imported into the United States as a pack, though individual hounds had been previously brought over from England. THE FOXHOUND 15 If we can rely upon shape, conformation, hound characteristics, and general appearance, then we are indebted more to the French than the English hound for our original stock. I have seen many packs in different parts of France that certainly resemble our old time native black and tan, long eared, long headed, high peaked, deep mouthed hounds, much more than the English hound, though the present American hound judged by the National Fox- hunters Association more closely resembles the English. As far back as the Revolutionary War the chief sport and pastime of the South was hunt- ing, and while no regular organized hunts were established, every Southern gentleman of means had his own hounds and was as proud and jealous of their reputation as of those of his horses and his family. While at this period no tabulated pedigrees were kept, nor hounds reg- istered, no stud book having been established, each owner was as careful in the breeding of his hounds to good performers only as he was of his racers. In the North at this period a few straggling individual hounds were owned, not to chase the fox, but to drive him and deer within range of a ten-bore gun waiting to per- forate their pelts with buck shot. 16 THE FOXHOUND The American Foxhound, while different in some respects from the English, should be judged upon the same value of points. The American hound should be the smaller and lighter in muscle and bone, dogs should not be under 21 nor over 24 inches nor weigh Typical American Foxhound 1. Nose. 2. Flews or Chaps. 3. Nasal Bone. 4. Stop. 5. Skull. 6. Occiput. 7. Dewlap (where such exists). 8. Brisket. 9. Top of shoul- 14. der blades or 15. " shoulder.'; l6 10. Top of Hip- " joint. £ 11. Shoulder-blade I& or scapula. x9- 12. Rump -bone. 20. 13. Arm. 21. Elbow. Fore-arm. Knee. Stifle-joint. Hocks. Stern. Chest. Pasterns. THE FOXHOUND 17 more than 60 pounds. Bitches should not be under 20 nor over 23 inches, nor weigh more than 53 pounds. The head (Value 15, see Summary) should be of medium size with muzzle in harmonious proportions. The skull should be rounded crosswise with slight peak-line, profile nearly straight — with sufficient stop to give symmetry to head. Ears medium — not long — thin, soft in coat, low set, and closely pendant. Eyes soft, medium size, and varying shades of brown. Nostrils slightly expanded. Head as a whole, should denote hound " character." The neck (value 5) must be clean and of good length, slightly arched, strong where it springs from the shoulder, and gradually taper- ing to the head without trace of throatiness. The shoulders (value 10) should be of suf- ficient length to give good leverage and power, well sloped, muscular, but clean run and not too broad. Chest and back ribs (value 10) : the chest should be deep for lung space, narrower in proportion to depth than the English hound, 28 inches in 24-inch hound being good. Well sprung ribs, back ribs should extend well back, a three-inch flank allowing springiness. The back and loin (value 10) should be broad, short, and strong, slightly arched. 18 THE FOXHOUND The hindquarters and lower thighs (value 10) must be well muscled and very strong. The stifles should be low, not too much bent nor yet too straight, a happy medium. The elbows (value 5) should be straight, neither in or out. Legs and feet (value 20) are of great import- ance. Legs should be straight and placed squarely under shoulder, having plenty of bone without clumsiness; strong pasterns well stood upon. Feet round, cat-like, not too large, toes well knuckled, close and compact, strong nails, pad thick, tough, and indurated by use. Color and coat (value 5) black, white, and tan pre- ferable, though the solids and various pies are permissible. Coat should be rough and coarse without being wiry or shaggy. Symmetry (value 5) : the form of hound should be harmonious throughout; he should show his blood quality and hound character in every aspect and movement. If he scores high in other properties, symmetry is bound to follow. The stern (value 5) must be strong in bone at root, of medium length carried like a saber on line with the spine, and must have good brush; a docked stern should not dis- qualify, but simply handicap according to ex- tent of docking. THE FOXHOUND 19 SUMMARY Head 15 Neck 5 Shoulders 10 Chest and ribs 10 Back and loins 10 Hindquarters and lower thighs 10 Elbows 5 Legs and feet 20 Color and coat 5 Stern 5 Symmetry 5 100 Faults in Hound Construction Head too short and thick. Neck short and throaty. Shoulder upright and loaded. Lack of muscle. Not straight below the knee. Hind leg too straight. Long flat foot. Hock not close enough to ground. Slack loin, sway back. Shallow chest. Flat side. A narrow chest. Head lacking hound quality. Crooked and light boned legs. Improperly set or carried stern. Loose flat feet. 20 THE FOXHOUND Faults in Field Too slow. Bad caster. Potterer. Roader. Skirter. Rioter. Qualities The extraordinary scenting powers of a hound are as unlimited as they are unrivaled, and never cease to be a wonder to the novice. The instinct to pursue and kill is a second na- ture in the hound and they seem to derive an insatiable pleasure from indulging it. Nature has endowed them with an enduring patience and courage that enable them, hungry, fatigued, footsore and exhausted, to continue the chase although every step is painful to a degree. Hounds have been known to run a fox or deer twenty-four hours continuously without food or rest. Bitches have been known to whelp in a chase, and an authentic case is on record of a bitch whelping a pup and taking it in her mouth and continuing the run. The question whether bitches are better than THE FOXHOUND 21 dogs in the field is a mooted one. I am rather inclined to think they are, though I know of many experienced hunters who hold to 'the other theory. In England the lady packs (bitches) are hunted separately and are con- sidered both faster and quicker, but I am in- clined to think that is because they are smaller; were the dogs the same size and build, I do not think the difference would be as apparent, though slightly in favor of bitches. In this country where less attention is paid to appear- ance, size, and sortiness of a pack, dogs and bitches are hunted together, and as dogs are undoubtedly freer with their tongues, while bitches have more dash and vim though are less steady, they undoubtedly make a strong Combination in working together. It is a widely discussed question and much has been written upon the relative merits of the American and English hounds. In touch- ing upon this subject I shall attempt to give a fair and impartial statement as seen from my viewpoint. I have also advised with others whom I consider authorities upon the subject, being hunters of wide experience who, like my- self, have imported, bred, raised, and hunted English hounds of the very best strains to be had. In the matter of breeding true to type 22 THE FOXHOUND we must yield the palm to the English. In the art and science of breeding they are not only the peers but the superiors of all other nations, and this applies to all domestic animals as well as the horse and hound. As to hounds, they have established a high standard of excellence, as to size, symmetry, conformation, and beauty of form and style, and breed for these quali- ties to the detriment of nose, speed, endurance, and fox sense. While we must admit that an even, level, sorty-looking pack, well balanced in size, color, and markings, is pleasing to the eye, yet none of these qualities can compare with those of nose, speed, endurance and fox sense when it comes to hunting foxes in America. We admit that the English are far our superiors in breed- ing, and had they for the past two hundred years employed their ability and efforts to per- fect hounds in the latter qualities, they would undoubtedly have produced a hound that could come to this country and eclipse any of our hounds in the field instead of taking position as second-raters, as they invariably do. The hunting in England does not call for the possession of the same qualities as in America. There the climatic and atmospheric conditions are generally favorable especially in THE FOXHOUND 23 the moist grass countries, where trailing con- ditions are such that scent hangs breast high and a hound with half a nose could run at top speed. The coverts are convenient and small, the huntsman knows within a few hundred yards of where the fox " uses " and can lay his hand on the line any time. The foxes are fat, sleek, and well fed, and in an untrained condition a straightaway run of eight or ten miles is uncommon. The run seldom exceeds one and a half or two hours once in a dozen chases. If check or loss is made, the hounds have the assistance of huntsmen, whippers-in, stoppers, and the hunter in regaining the line. The problem that confronts the American hounds is an altogether different matter. Our coverts and forests are extremely large. The foxes, remaining wild and timid, seldom pass twenty-four hours without a run of four to eight hours, the hounds frequently running them by themselves without hunters. BREEDING AND RAISING CHAPTER II BREEDING AND RAISING HOUNDS THE English are without question the most successful breeders in the world, and with the exception of the horse they Have probably paid more attention to the breeding of the Foxhound than of any other animal, and have certainly paid more attention to the breeding of the hound than all other nations combined. Unfortunately for us, how- ever, their country and methods of hunting re- quire an altogether different hound from that which is called for in this country. With them a hound is condemned for faults in construction, size, and even marking before he has even had a trial in the field, and after a trial the hounds are again culled or " drafted," as they call it, for faults that may interfere with their usefulness (from their viewpoint) in the future. Unfortunately for the looks, symme- try, and conformation of our hounds, this cus- 27 28 THE FOXHOUND torn does not prevail to any extent in this country and should be judiciously encouraged. I am afraid that we have adopted the " hand- some is as handsome does " policy too freely. The efficiency of the hounds depends entirely upon the breeding, and to maintain a pack or strain up to the required standard of excel- lence continual selection of superior animals is necessary. One of the soundest principles of breeding is that the longer certain desirable qualities have been handed down from genera- tion to generation the more certainly you can depend upon a continuance of the same. Heredity is undoubtedly the strongest force in nature. To be sure, it does not control the individual peculiarities of a sire or dam, but where these characteristics existed for several generations we may expect many of them, and the farther back they extend the larger and more pronounced will be their percentage. Stonehenge says inbreeding is not injurious to the dog, as has been proven by theory and practice. On the other hand, Darwin says in- breeding diminishes vigor and fertility. Some claim that by inbreeding alone one can fix and perpetuate good qualities in succeeding genera- tions. My experience is that inbreeding, when judiciously and not excessively practiced, is BREEDING AND RAISING 29 essential to type and many necessary qualities in the hound, but carried to too great an ex- treme it unquestionably stunts growth and weakens . both constitution and intelligence. The most glaring contradiction of this rule is in the case of game chickens, as those incestu- ously bred are gamer, stronger, and more am- bitious than others. In inbreeding, the mating of sire and dam with daughter and son is unquestionably prefer- able to mating brother and sister. Once cross- ing in, twice crossing out is an old rule and a most excellent one to observe in hound breed- ing. The antiquity of the hound with its long line of breeding makes an absolute outcross (such, for instance, as the Greyhound) less dangerous than would be the case in many modern breeds. The influence of such a cross on type would soon be entirely obliterated. No type can be maintained by adhering strictly to the best selections of the same family, there- fore rigidly adhere to one type, no matter how great the temptation may be to do otherwise, or the ultimate destruction of type will follow. Due attention must be paid to joint selection of sire and dam and the possibilities of a good cross or nick. If sire and dam have vigor, perfect health, and strength, it is fair to pre- 30 THE FOXHOUND sume their offspring, with proper care and at- tention, will inherit these same qualities. There is absolutely no question about the fact of hounds inheriting qualities of hunting more from the dam than from the sire, while the qualities of shape, size, and conformation come from the sire. Many breeders consider pedigree the only consideration, paying but little attention to in- dividual excellences or qualities; this is a mis- take. Symmetry is never the result of chance or luck, but of careful forethought and good judgment, backed by a practical knowledge of breeding. It is a gross mistake to breed good and bad specimens together simply on account of their pedigrees. The result is anything but certain, as the bad qualities are as apt to crop out in the progeny as the good, if not in the first then in some succeeding generation. A hound with bad qualities is more apt to perpet- uate them in his progeny than he is to throw back to better qualities possessed by his blue- blooded ancestors. Therefore in breeding for any certain desirable quality, for instance, color or tongue, do not fail to investigate fully all other qualities, good, bad, and indifferent, pos- sessed by the sire, as with the desired qualities you may get some very undesirable ones. BREEDING AND RAISING 31 Hound bitches generally come in season when eight or nine months old, especially those reaching this age in the spring months. They should never be bred until the second heat, which in this case should be in the fall. It is too great a tax on the energies and system of the bitch, the pups are apt to be weak and puny, and the strain may affect the constitution of the bitch through life. If one expects strong, vigorous pups with stamina and constitution when they attain maturity, they should never breed a bitch under eighteen months of age. Bitches generally come in heat every six 01? eight months, on an average three times in two years. They should be separated from the dogs at the very first sign of heat, which are generally excessive spirits and playfulness, un- due levity on the part of the quiet, sedate old lady being an infallible sign. The next stage is the swelling of the parts, followed by the discharge. If it is a strange bitch, let her be- come accustomed to her new surroundings be- fore service. Do not keep near dogs. Remem- ber their remarkable noses are doubly keen under such circumstances. Take the greatest possible precautions to isolate her, then double your precautions. There is not only a chance of her getting out, but a greater one of dogs 82 THE FOXHOUND getting in to her. I have known some remark- able feats of both, and have heard of some more incredible ones. It is neither necessary nor wise to serve a bitch as soon as she is willing to accept service; one week from the first appearance of discharge is the proper time and two services forty-eight hours apart are as good as half a dozen. The period of actual heat is about ten days, though this is often exceeded or decreased in duration. There is little truth in the saying of nine days coming and nine days going out. The average length of service is fifteen minutes, and the dog should be removed instantly, never being left with the bitch after service. If the bitch forms a messalliance, a prompt injection of weak solution of bichloride of mer- cury will have the desired effect. Never take a bitch's word for it that her heat has passed, but keep her close for several days after she has denied the soft impeachement. Occasion- ally a bitch, though fully in heat, refuses to ac- cept service. In a case of this kind she should be muzzled and forced to accept — only, how- ever, in positive and unmistakable cases. Ex- cessively fat bitches show impaired powers of reproduction and frequently fail to breed or will have small litters with sickly pups. The best conformation for brood bitches is BREEDING AND RAISING 38 one with wide and strong loins and good length of flank. Too much exercise cannot be given during this period, and hunting should be kept up at least four weeks after service. After four weeks, regular yard and road exer- cise should be given, though care should be taken in exercising to prevent colds. From now on one cannot be too careful in adminis- tering strong purgative medicines or applying any soaps, washes, or strong remedies for mange or vermin. The period of gestation is sixty-three days and seldom varies except through accident. It is safe to count on the first service, if per- formed in the latter rather than the first period of the heat. The bitch will have a capricious appetite at this time and should be well sup- plied with a variety of food. A bitch that is known to be rough and careless toward her pups should not be given a whelping box. A small house with a dry dirt floor is best. In this hollow out a nest several days in advance, that she may become accustomed to it. The circular form of nest will prevent her lying or stepping upon the pups, as they will always gravitate toward the center. The antiseptic qualities of the dry earth are too well known to need comment. The bitch's disposition changes very mate- 34 THE FOXHOUND rially as parturition approaches, and the quiet- est, gentlest of them may become restless, nerv- ous, and irritable. After seeing that each puppy has suckled once, do not intrude upon her. Let her alone; she understands the ne- cessities of the situation much better than you. Feed soft foods for a few days, but do not worry about the amount she eats; nature has attended to that, but always have plenty of cool, clean water within easy reach. Later on the enormous drain on her vitality can be met with generous and tempting food. If a pup should die, or be crushed, remove the body at the first opportunity, as the inclination and in- stinct to eat it may lead to eating of all. This also frequently happens when they are moved from place to place or disturbed or interfered with. A bitch in good condition, getting plenty of food and exercise, can raise eight puppies, though I had a bitch raise fifteen of her own whelping. If a foster mother is considered desirable, make the change gradually, one or two at a time, removing the foster mother's pups every time you add a strange one and rub some of the foster mother's milk over added pups. Their eyes will open in nine days, and when they are three or four weeks old they BREEDING AND RAISING 35 will lap milk or soup. The former should al- ways be boiled, thinned with water, and a little sugar added. Later bread crumbs and well- boiled meat may also be added. They should be given a simple remedy for worms (see rem- edy in chapter on Diseases and Remedies) at five or six weeks of age. Pups, no matter how they are raised, are troubled with these pests of puppyhood. Puppies kept clean and dry more frequently escape the terrible ravages of distemper than others. Feed them three or four times a day until six months of age, then once daily, prefer- ably at night, will suffice. Avoid giving medN cine as much as possible. More hounds die from improper and excessive uses of medicines than from want of it. Give them access to grassland and they will find their own remedies. Never attempt to raise hound pups in a ken- nel; a kennel-raised pup is absolutely worthless; Adopt the English custom of farming them out, or, as they express it, put them " out to walk." Unless the person taking them has had expert ence in raising pups, it is safest to give them written instructions, especally as to feed, ver- min, worms, and distemper. TRAINING AND HUNTING CHAPTER III TRAINING AND HUNTING THE sport of hunting wild animals on their native heath, whether with hound or gun, is the natural recreation of man. Love of hunting in its different phases is one of the strongest characteristics of the human race, the principles and methods of which were instilled into our remote ancestors and rightly inherited by us ; and he who has once tasted the sweets of foxhunting is its devotee for life. When the system has once absorbed the love of the chase it never can be eradicated. In this country, since the earliest days of colonization, the sport of foxhunting has thrived with unflagging, in fact increasing, enthusiasm. Our early ancestors, especially in Maryland, Virginia, and Kentucky, were dev- otees of the sport, and every country gentle- man owned his pack of hounds and stable of horses; but the first organized hunt club on the 39 40 THE FOXHOUND order of an English hunt was in 1877, when ten couples of hounds were imported and drag runs were made on Long Island. They afford- ed probably more amusement to outsiders than to the participants, who were caricatured and held up to ridicule by the press. However, this sport found favor in the eyes and hearts of the riders of the East, and soon drag hunts were had near many of the Eastern cities. Thus a desire for cross-country riding was created which has developed into successful hunt clubs in the East. It has never been popular in any other sec- tion of the country, and absolutely unknown in the South. A Southern hunter would as soon think of gratifying his sporting ambition by tossing up a dead bird bought in the market and shooting at it as by running a drag, and the devotee of drag-hunting considers many of the foxhunting customs of the South and West equally absurd and amusing. Hunting in America requires an altogether different hound from those used in England, conditions being very dissimilar. Hounds re- quire superior hunting ability, wide ranging, greater perseverance and patience, and above all a much better nose to enable them to take an old and cold track probably made the day TRAINING AND HUNTING 41 before and work it out inch by inch for six or eight hours if necessary. They get absolutely no assistance from the hunter and have no one to rely upon but themselves. I have known instances where a single hound would slip away from home, travel eight or ten miles to where he had previously run a fox, find an old trail, and work it diligently for fifteen or twenty hours. No animal is called upon to perform harder feats than is the Foxhound, and none excel or equal them in ability and willingness to per- form them. As proficiency in other arts is attained only by close application and constant practice, so the art, for surely it is an art, of breaking and training a Foxhound requires not only these but a large fund of love and a mu- tual bond of sympathy and understanding be- tween man and hound. The trainer having the requisite keenness 'and perseverance, combined with kindness and quick observance of the nature and disposition of hounds, can produce surprising results. Unfortunately few trainers or hunters possess sufficient knowledge of hound characteristics or the unlimited stock of patience necessary to per- fect a hound to the proper degree of efficiency. A successful hunter or trainer should have in- 42 THE FOXHOUND tuitive knowledge bordering on instinct of the ways and habits of the fox and a well-defined idea, based upon practical experience, as to just what a fox is apt to do under various circum- stances over which he (the fox) has no control. A fair knowledge of the country to be hunted is of great service, especially in " striking off a loss," or "making casts," in the earlier " checks " of a run. It is the judicious study of the individual hound that distinguishes the successful trainer, and his judgment must be called into requisi- tion in training different hounds, as no iron- clad rules can be laid down. In limited space it is impossible to give the full detail neces- sary to enable a novice to graduate a broken trained hound. Only the fundamental princi- ples can be touched upon. In fact, many in- stances arise through idiosyncracies of individ- ual hounds where no general rules can apply. Common sense must be appealed to and spe- cific treatment administered. In America we have no professional trainer, every man is a law to himself, and few Ameri- can hounds receive any except self-training. The knowledge they obtain is by absorption from contact with other hounds. Their nat- ural instinct prompts them to hunt and trail; TRAINING AND HUNTING 43 many bad habits are contracted in this crude method that, once instilled in the system, are almost impossible to eradicate and are fre- quently transmitted to their progeny. The hound is gregarious by nature, preferring to hunt in packs, but the undeviating perseverance and high courage of the American hound makes it easier to train him to hunt alone than is possible with the English hound, whose train- ing is generally in a pack. Pack training, how- ever, has a tendency to destroy the self-reliance and independence so natural to the American hound, which hunts independently of hound or man and seldom expects or receives assistance from either. Different methods and conditions in hunting are responsible for the widely divergent dif- ference in hounds in the field, though practi- cally of the same strain and breeding. Hounds for use in the North and in New England, where a single hound is hunted, require a far more systematic training and education than the pack hound of the South. The dog should be taught by means of the check cord to fol- Jow his master " at heel," become accustomed voice, to jump in and out of a vehicle at com- ^to strange sights, and to come when called by mand, and to ride quietly therein. He should 44 THE FOXHOUND be broken to gun, chain, and collar, and above all to know his master's horn. Familiarity should not be countenanced, and any desire on his part to jump upon or place his front feet upon his master should be checked by gently mashing his hind foot by stepping upon it when he rears. The native New England hound, doubtless through ancestral influence, is of a more pliable nature and better adapted to the style of hunt- ing used in that section than the Southern hound, which has inherited the pack instinct for many generations. Yet the Southern hound, owing to his extreme speed and brilliancy in driving his quarry, is rapidly replacing the na- tive. English hounds are undoubtedly more susceptible to training and handling, and in England much attention is paid to manners and good behavior at walk, in the kennels, and in the field. The thing taught is obedience and respect to the master; such a thing as an unruly or riotous pack is almost unknown. Unfortunately in America the very opposite is true, a well-mannered, obedient hound being a rare exception. The fact that comparatively few packs of American hounds are kept ken- neled and the absence of " whippers-in " are in a measure responsible for this unfortunate TRAINING AND HUNTING 45 condition, while the naturally free and inde- pendent nature of the American hound renders his education along this line more difficult than with the English. There is little or no excuse for the harum- scarum manner in which hounds are generally- fed, handled, and taken to and from the hunt- ing ground. With the use of " couples " and an energetic " whipper-in " desirable results will soon be apparent, especially if hounds are roaded and packed when not actually en route to and from the hunting ground. Good man- ners, when once acquired, should not be al- lowed to grow lax. By a display of resolu- tion an unruly hound is readily subdued, and if he is mastered at the beginning of his train- ing is usually submissive afterward. If taken in time the desire to resist can be more easily overcome than the actual resistance can be con- quered later on. Hounds, if properly treated, are capable of great affection. Their confidence should never be abused. The whip is the most dangerous implement in most hands, especially in those of the trainer whose temper is easily ruffled at some offense or breach of discipline on the part of the hound. Firmness and considera- tion appeal more to the sympathetic nature of 46 THE FOXHOUND the hound than strength and cruelty. The whip should be used sparingly with highly nerv- ous or excitable hounds that need restraint or correction. The voice, if properly modulated, will generally have the desired effect. Hounds will not readily forgive or forget an unde- served blow, and when it is too freely bestowed they soon learn to consider man an agent of torture rather than a friend. Never make a companion or pet of a hound, and never offer to pet or caress one in the field. This places them on a familiar footing and " familiarity breeds contempt." The pamper- ing and petting which many hounds are sub- jected to by overindulgent owners are respon- sible for the ruin of many a promising hound. If not a breeder, in selecting hounds attention must be paid to qualities and characteristics of antecedents, as ancestral influence is certain to crop out in later generations. While inherited instinct may be more or less latent, it is always present, and it is simply a question of develop- ment by proper handling and training. A hound with bad qualities is more apt to per- petuate them in his progeny than he is to throw- back to better qualities which were possessed by his blue-blooded ancestors. Hunting and training qualities are usually TRAINING AND HUNTING 47 inherited from the dam, while speed, endur- ance and conformation are transmitted from the sire. Even a superficial knowledge of the subject indicates that speed and hunting instinct are among the greater qualities a hound should possess and they are much sought after. But a hound lacking vital force, staunchness, and endurance can never excel. During the kinder- garten course as far as possible pups should be trained under the most favorable hunting con- ditions, and the work made as easy and light as possible. Later on harder problems may be submitted for their solution. An ideal hunt- ing day is when the ground is damp and moist (not frozen) with a heavy atmosphere, a cloudy sky, and light southern breeze. At six months of age the average hound's brain is sufficiently developed to enable him to grasp the simpler rudiments of training and to realize that he has a mission in life other than the theft of everything portable he en- counters. At this age his manners should re- ceive proper attention. He should be made acquainted with the sights and sounds of the road, and no better method can be advised than to couple him to a quiet, staid, dignified old hound and road them through the country. As soon as he is disposed to behave himself 48 THE FOXHOUND he should be uncoupled, at first only when on the way home. At the first indication of lev- ity on his part recouple him promptly, giving him to understand the why and wherefore. Never allow hounds to visit farmyards un- punished. Disabuse their minds of the idea that they must make the acquaintance of every cur of high or low degree they meet on the road. The first lessons in actual hunting should commence when six to ten months of age, according to physical development. If at this stage a careful study of the nature and eccentricities shows faults too pronounced and not easily corrected, it is far better to dispose of the hound than to waste time on him with the liability of others contracting the same faults. It is a very common as well as pernicious custom of the tyro to allow hound puppies to hunt or run rabbits. This is a serious mistake. Why allow them to acquire a habit that will take weeks and months to break them of later? It is only fair to say that ninety per cent, of the hounds that are first entered to rabbit can never be made absolutely rabbit proof. The best plan is to enter them to fox cubs. If a den is not conveniently near and old foxes are scarce, a captive fox taught to lead may be TRAINING AND HUNTING 49 utilized in the preliminary lessons, at least until they can learn the intoxicating delight a well- bred hound experiences in scenting a fox. Great care should be exercised in using a captive fox to keep it far enough away from the pups so they may never see or smell it until they run across the trail laid for them. In other words, a captive fox should never be kept anywhere in the vicinity of the kennels. It is better to hunt puppies where a gray rather than a red fox " uses." Should they strike an old red it will not only take the heart out of them, but his straightaway tactics will take them out of your own field of observation. The gray will dodge, twist, and make short circles, thus enabling you to note the perform- ances of the puppies and correct their faults. The presence of an older and better hound teaches the younger hounds how to circle for a loss and checks the disposition of many young hounds to back track when a loss is made. A slow hound is best to train them with first, but he must not be a potterer or a babbler. After he has the fox up and the pup has taken hold of the line, if opportunity presents to take up the old hound without the knowledge of the pup do so. If the pup makes a loss or quits for any cause replace the old hound, to assist 50 THE FOXHOUND him. If a loss is made when hunting alone, do not get excited and try to rush him along. There is less danger of becoming a potterer than rioter. Keep quiet: excitement is conta- gious. If he shows no disposition to u circle " make the cast yourself and gently coax him to accom- pany you. When he finally strikes the line cheer him on. Never take a hound by the collar or lead him and put him on the line; get him to it naturally and let him think he has " struck it off." No matter how much time is lost, let him work out his own salvation. This habit of laying on the line has proved a curse to the English hounds. When a distant hound opens and the pup fails to " hark " to him, attract his attention by repeating the word " hark " sharply, then start rapidly toward the sound, urging him to " go to him," stop, cry " hark," and repeat this, getting nearer all the time until the pup " goes in." Should he be " thrown out," re- peat this later, as the fox is certain to circle and return within hearing distance. When possible alternate hunting alone and with pack. If hunted always with a pack, especially of his superiors, the young dog will soon acquire a habit of waiting or holding back until others TRAINING AND HUNTING 51 make a strike and his usefulness will be much impaired. When alone he soon develops con- fidence in his own ability that will later stand him in good stead. Hunting with inferior hounds teaches him to go ahead, forge for the front, pick up a loss, and to depend upon his own efforts. Hunt- ing with better hounds teaches him through ob- servation how to accomplish these ends with accuracy and more ease to himself. If covert is close, swampy, infested with briars, or im- penetrable, never hunt him alone, but with a slow, painstaking older hound which will in- duce him to enter and remain in the face of adverse conditions; if inclined to babble or run riot, he should be given five or six miles of brisk road work behind a horse or vehicle be- fore throwing him in. This will take off the keen edge and subdue his spirits enough to get him down to business. One thus inclined should never be broken with a noisy hound, but a steady, reliable one, that knows just when to give tongue and how much of it. Punishment for babbling and running riot should be administered promptly and deci- sively. Spare your voice with young hounds. Remember silence is a necessary qualification of a successful trainer and that hounds soon 52 THE FOXHOUND become noisy babblers like their masters. Back tracking is a grievous fault, one of the hardest to overcome as well as one of the easiest to acquire. A hound showing a disposition to back track should as far as possible be given opportunities to run hot, fresh trails, even if the aid of a captive fox is necessary. It is far easier to distinguish the right way of the track when fresh than when cold. Great care should be exercised in punishing a hound for back tracking. He thinks he is right and can- not understand the punishment. It is far bet- ter to let him continue on a track until it " peters out," for then he realizes that some- thing is wrong, especially if in his next run he gets near enough to his fox to find the scent increasing. Training with a drag is very apt to make back trackers of any hound. If in preliminary lessons you are not fortunate enough " to hole " a wild fox, the captive fox should be brought into play, a half or three-quarter mile trail laid by leading, and the fox securely holed at the end. Let the hound run the trail to the hole alone; as long as he shows a disposition to stay and bay do not put in an appearance, but keep in viewing distance. At the first indi- cation of leaving, come forward and make TRAINING AND HUNTING 53 exaggerate defforts to dislodge the fox, urging the hound to bay and get him out. Drop back out of sight gradually and repeat your actions several times. Finally dig him out, and if foxes are plentiful allow him to " break " the fox, this being a good time to blood the hound. If when hounds are thrown " in cover " a 11 blank draw" results, do not take the hounds up, but let them hunt along to the next cover. Move slowly, indicating the direction by a sin- gle short blast on your horn every few hundred yards to enable the hounds to keep in touch with you. Moving rapidly has a tendency to make " roaders " of otherwise good hounds. Should a young hound " come in " while others are hunting, trailing, or driving, and you can- not induce him to go to them, do not allow him to He around or follow you, but send him immediately to the kennel; otherwise he will soon become a confirmed loafer, in which case he should be presented with an ounce of lead. The practiced ear will readily distinguish a hound's tongue when out of sight. When you hear a hound " open " do not put spurs to your horse to get to him unless you recognize his tongue and know him well; he may fool you. If other hounds are in sight, watch them closely. They will " head up " at the sound 54 THE FOXHOUND and listen intently, and if they are not thor- oughly satisfied will resume their own hunting. This may be repeated several times. Then without any apparent difference in tone the hounds " will hark to it " and with bristles up and tail lashing take high fences in their eager- ness to " get in." They know the characters of their hound friends better than you do and can tell when they are bluffing or in earnest. Never force or hurry hounds in puzzling out a cold trail. This is one of the most fruitful means of spoiling sport, as well as hounds. If you feel restless and impatient, dismount and sit on a fence or stump. If you and your horse show impatience it will surely be com- municated to the hounds and a check will soon develop in a loss. Never go ahead of the hounds; remember, no matter how great the temptation is to be in front, you cannot catch the fox yourself, but you can, and probably will, not only spoil the day's sport but you also run the risk of spoiling the hound by such tactics. When " casting " never offer to assist as long as the hounds are diligently trying to " strike off." The less they are interfered with the better; they understand finding a fox better than you do. Hounds while fresh are very ex- TRAINING AND HUNTING 55 citable and unless you overrun the line at the first turn and make a loss do not keep too close to them when driving. This is responsible for spoiling more good runs than all the bad soil, high wind, and climatic conditions combined. In hunting the hunter should stay with the hounds and not allow the hounds to stay with him. They are supposed to do the hunting and should not learn to rely upon the hunter to select likely places to get up the fox or strike a trail. When hounds are " thrown in " stay perfectly quiet and keep your horse so. Hounds are easily rattled at this stage, espe- cially if they have been kenneled for several days, and too much enthusiasm on your part may cause them to riot. Frequently, owing to the character of the country in wooded districts, it is impossible to keep the hounds within sight or hearing; then the craft of the hunter or trainer with an accurate knowledge of the habits of the game comes into play. If sheep or cattle are in sight he can tell at a glance if they passed in their vicinity, can even tell the very direction taken. Every flock of fowls, farm dog, or cur of low degree is an indicator. If there is a band of horses he can tell whether the hounds were close or far behind the fox. If there is a crow or jaybird in the neighbor- 56 THE FOXHOUND hood he can locate the fox, as both are invet- erate enemies of the fox and will not only " peach " upon him, but do everything in their power to advise the world at large of the fox's presence. All of these signs are Greek to the novice and can only be learned by constant observation. While it is best to train in daytime, as the work of the hound can be noted to better ad- vantage, good results are obtained by night hunting, especially in the South, where scenting conditions are better at night and the fox is more easily found, runs longer, and keeps a more regular course. The trainer should fa- miliarize himself with the tongue or voice of each hound. An experienced hunter can tell the feelings swaying a hound as each note re- flected in the music of the mouth represents a particular emotion, distinctly denoting eager- ness, anxiety, uncertainty, joy, distress, or any other canine feeling. The number of times a week they should be hunted at this stage of the game depends on how they stand up to the work. As much care should be taken to see they do not grow stale or sour from overwork as that they do not become soft and indolent from lack of work. Their feet should be examined on the start from TRAINING AND HUNTING 57 the kennel, also on the return to it. Place the back of the hand to the hound's nose; if it is cold and moist, he is all right.. If it is warm and dry he should not be hunted, but given a dose of castor oil and light road exercise. The nose is the only absolutely correct indicator of condition in a hound. A bag fox can be liberated occasionally in blooding young hounds. They never run like a wild fox, even when they are fresh and unin- jured; they generally go "down wind," and though hounds run them in a half-hearted way, the fox seldom, when turned down under fa- vorable conditions for trailing, gets his " ticket of leave." With twenty minutes' license, hounds should kill in about the same amount of time after being laid on the line. Never attempt to call or collect your hounds by a false call to game. You may fool them a few times, but they will soon find you out and you will realize that you have cried wolf once too often. All hounds should be taught to swim, but do not do it by throwing them into the water. When the water is warm enough not to chill, take them out in a boat a short distance from the shore, place them gently in the water, and pull ashore fast enough to prevent efforts to get into the boat. It is seldom that more than 58 THE FOXHOUND a couple of lessons are necessary to make them feel at home in the water. The homing instinct is possessed in greater or less degree by all hounds and should be cul- tivated to the utmost. This should not be done by leaving them in the woods or hunting ground to find their way home alone. Make short excursions from the home and have them con- fined for an hour after your departure. Grad- ually increase the distance as well as the time of confinement. Whenever a hound returns voluntarily to the kennels he should be given a morsel to eat, no matter what hour or how near feeding time. If you leave a hound while out hunting, he soon loses confidence in you and looks upon you as a deserter. When you are ready to re- turn call him with your ,horn, the tone of which you should familiarize him with in the kennels. It is remarkable how readily they learn the tone of their master's horn and never forget or confuse it with another. Use the cow horn in preference to the brass instrument. The latter has no individuality and is very hard for a hound to distinguish. There is a peculiar charm, a mysterious sweetness about the tone of a good, well-blown cow horn that no musical instrument possesses. Its melody fills the heart TRAINING AND HUNTING 59 of the hunter and quickens his blood as do the drum and bugle that of a soldier. One of the most important lessons to be taught is that domestic animals are not legiti- mate quarry. The worst habit a hound can acquire is sheep killing; once acquired, no earthly effort can break him of it. Young hounds should be coupled and frequently taken through sheep pastures. Should one show a disposition to run or attack a sheep, ride him down, whip him thoroughly, and give him the impression that you intend to kill him then and there. Should he repeat the offense, tie him with a short rope to a vicious old ram who will take pleasure in cracking a few ribs for him, and he will forevermore lose his appetite for mutton. As a precaution against hounds running deer, a young goat should be kept in and about the kennels. To prevent gun shyness go to the kennels at feeding time and while the hounds are eating, fire a few shots from a small rifle. Should any of them show any evidence of fright or alarm speak to and pet them. The next day use the twenty-two cartridges, then a revolver and gradually lead up to a shotgun. After firing lay the gun on the ground for the dogs to inspect at their leisure. 60 THE FOXHOUND Some hounds have a predilection for running a dog track. This is almost as bad as the " mutton habit " and calls for equally prompt, heroic, and energetic treatment along the same lines. Between hunting seasons hounds should have sufficient active and regular work to keep them in discipline, muscles hardened, flesh down, and pads well indurated. They will thus be ready to resume their training on the opening of their second season. FEEDING CHAPTER IV FEEDING THE subject of feeding is a matter of the greatest importance, as upon proper feed depends the health, spirits, general appearance and capacity for work. There is no detail of kennel management so imperfectly understood as feeding, as is abundantly shown by the lack of knowledge upon the part of those taking upon themselves this responsibil- ity and the resultant ailments directly attribut- able to injudicious feeding. The general rules to be observed are regu- larity in time of feeding, moderation in the quantity, and variety in the description of it. Regularity in feeding is the most important of these, as nothing tends more quickly to dis- turb the digestive organs of the dog than a long fast followed by a heavy meal given to make up the deficiency. There is much difference of opinion as to whether hounds should be fed once or twice a 63 64 THE FOXHOUND day. Some claim that the health and strength of the dog will be impaired by being allowed to go as long as twenty-four hours without food. This may be the case with some breeds, but hounds fed judiciously once a day can be kept in perfect health and spirits, provided they are not allowed to gulp it down and to over- load their stomachs. This can be arranged by using long, narrow V-shaped troughs made from i"x6" hard wood 6 feet long closed at both ends. Troughs should be stood on end exposed to the sun after feeding. If left upon the ground it is a great temptation for a hound to urinate on them and when once done every hound will think it his bounden duty to follow suit. Dogs in their natural or wild state, like wolves, whose food depends largely upon acci- dent are fortified by nature with powers of resisting hunger for long periods. Of the two evils, over- or under-feeding, the former is by far the greater evil. The quantity of food, of course, depends entirely upon the size of the hound. While no general rule can be laid down, it is safe to calculate an ounce of food for every pound weight of the hound. Should a healthy hound under ordinary exercise grow thin on this ra- FEEDING 65 tion it is fair to presume he has tape or com- mon worms, and should be treated as else- where provided. During the hunting season the ration can be increased in proportion to the work done. A hound should never under any circumstances have access to an unlimited quantity of food or be allowed to eat until he ceases to be hun- gry. The minute he ceases to eat eagerly and begins to walk about, pick or choose his food, he should be stopped. It is not enough to see that they are sup- plied with sufficient food. Like human beings they vary much in their requirements, and it is advisable to watch them closely when eating to make note of the effect of different quan- tities of food upon their systems and to ob- serve their changing conditions. Bear in mind the age, amount of exercise, health, season of the year, and their individual needs. Always be on the lookout for a falling or flagging appetite, as that is the earliest and surest symptom of disease. When the kennelman has familiarized himself with their individual appetites and manner of eating he should sep- arate the hounds at feeding time, the timid, shrinking, poor feeders in one pen and the hustling bolters in another. 66 THE FOXHOUND The dog is a carnivorous animal and re- quires more or less of a meat diet. Some so- called authorities, while admitting that the dog was originally carnivorous, claim that from his long association with man he has become om- nivorous, and that meat is not necessary for perfect development and health. While it is true that dogs are practically omnivorous in the present day, the assertion that meat is en- tirely unnecessary is absurd. The small digestive system and the carniv- orous type of teeth remain and are entirely unsuited to farinaceous and starchy foods. Mutton and beef are the best meats for hounds, but owing to their high cost are pro- hibitive, especially for packs. Horseflesh can be substituted and hounds thrive well upon it. Care should be taken to see that the horse did not die from glanders. In the proper feeding of hounds quality is of much more importance than quantity. The principal feed of hounds in this coun- try is necessarily meals and should be pre- pared as follows: One-third cornmeal (unbolted), one-third shorts from wheat flour, and one-third hog cracklings (refuse after lard has been extract- ed). This should first be thoroughly boiled in FEEDING 67 a steam-jacketed kettle, then baked brown in a regular brick oven. In summer it is best to substitute oats for cornmeal, as the latter is too heating, and two tablespoonsful of hypo- sulphite of soda should be added for every ten couples. It should be baked hard, forcing them to chew it up, thus causing a flow from the salivary glands that aids digestion. The feeding of soft, sloppy, starchy foods, while fattening, leaves the hounds soft and flabby and produces eczema and mange. Baked hard the hound cannot bolt it, requir- ing crunching and better mastication. It keeps the teeth clean and firm, a soft food fed hound of two years of age frequently has the mouth of a four or five-year-old hound. Dogs fed wholly on farinaceous foods take on flesh rapidly, their systems become weak- ened and predisposed to disease and lack the highest development of courage, endurance, and gameness so greatly desired in hounds. An occasional feed of vegetables should be given as the meal diet is very heating to the blood and frequently brings on attacks of eczema and mange, the curse of all hound packs. It is doubtless to supply deficiency of vegetables that a dog is seen to eat grass. Bones, described as a dog's tooth brush, are 68 THE FOXHOUND greatly relished by them and are of great serv- ice in removing tartar, which frequently forms around the teeth near the gums and either loosens them or sets up an irritation. Bones should never be given to dogs when their stom- achs are empty, but only after being fed. Feeding should be done by the same person every day, preferably superintended by the man who hunts them, as it will assist him in enforcing discipline and obedience in the field. When a hound refuses to eat he should be thoroughly examined. If nose is found dry and warm his temperature should be taken. If registering above 101 in the rectum (nor- mal) he should be given a dose of castor oil and watched carefully for a day or two for other symptoms of sickness. It is of the utmost importance that they have a pure water supply. Many intestinal com- plaints are produced by a deficiency in this respect. Drinking vessels should be so ar- ranged that they cannot be soiled by the dogs confined in the kennel, the temptation being great to use them as urinals. Vessels should be so placed as not to be exposed to the rays of the sun and should be regularly cleaned, and moss and scum removed from the bottoms and sides. FEEDING 69 A most excellent water trough can be made of old galvanized range boilers by cutting a four by twelve hole along the side in the center and burying it upon its side, allowing the hole to be flush with the surface of the ground. It will hold about thirty gallons and the earth will keep it at a proper temperature, and the small opening will prevent the hounds from soiling the water. By placing half the boiler in either yard beneath the division fence and making an opening in the boiler on each side of the fence the one trough will serve both yards. Where practicable, running water (unfortu- nately seldom to be had) should be provided, and a box trough arranged for them to bathe and cool off in. KENNELS CHAPTER V KENNELS THE question of kennels is a more im- portant one than is generally supposed, and the venerable saying " Anything is good enough for a dog " should be replaced by " Nothing is too good for a hound," as those who have attempted to kennel valuable hounds in unfitting quarters have discovered to their cost. While it is unnecessary to invest large sums of money in kennels to insure comfort and health for the occupants, one should not go to the other extreme of overcrowding hounds in unfitting quarters. Cramped quarters and foul surroundings will do more to unfit hounds for field work than can be counteracted by all the skill of competent trainers and handlers. Anyone who wishes to gain a reputation as a successful breeder or hunter of hounds should well consider the matter of comfortably ken- neling them. 73 74 THE FOXHOUND Supervise your kennels yourself if you want it well done; if you want it half done, relegate it to the best possible man you can employ, irrespective of cost. The following plans not only insure an in- expensive kennel, but also one best adapted for the hound's welfare, both in and out of season. If it is desired, one can substitute brick and stone for the wooden structure, but the only advantage it will possess will be in looks and durability. The first and most important consideration should be the location. When possible it should be high and gently sloping in every di- rection, so that during the rainy season pools and puddles cannot form in the yards or runs, and in a downpour the ground can be washed and the surface water drained off promptly. The soil should be dry and light, and free from clay. The plan illustrated provides kennels and grounds for twenty couples; the size of the runs, yards, and grounds can be regulated by the amount of land at one's disposal, the larger in area the better. The minimum should be one acre. The outer fencing should be of nine-inch cedar posts, set three feet in the ground. A trench two feet deep should 76 THE FOXHOUND then be dug, and a twenty-four-inch heavy two- inch mesh galvanized wire netting called hog wire stretched from post to post beneath the surface. Fill the trench, tamping the dirt compactly. This will insure against any hounds digging out. Three-inch strips, eight feet long, of rough oak fencing, securely nailed on the outside of the stringers, with two-inch spaces between, will forever prevent scaling or gnawing out. Should any portion of the outside fence lie upon or near a public passageway it should be boarded up solid with ordinary fencing plank, care being taken to stop up all cracks or knot- holes, all such being a fruitful source of noise in a kennel. The same instructions should be observed in erecting the division fences on the pack side of the kennels, except that the three-inch strips need only be five feet long, placed three inches apart, with a two-foot gal- vanized wire netting stretched along the top as well as beneath the surface. This will allow more sunlight and breeze. The division fences on the breeding, hos- pital, and puppy sides should all have solid fences four feet high with three-foot netting along the top, and two-foot wire in the trenches. Gateways throughout should have KENNELS 77 automatic catches in addition to a simple slide or bar on each, and should be wide enough to admit a wheelbarrow. The dimensions given on the plan of kennels are the minimum and can be increased as desired, but should never be diminished. The foundation should be of brick and the floor at least thirty inches from the ground. The space beneath the floor can be partitioned off with plan the same as the floor plan, with a ten by twenty slide door, opening into each yard or run. A piece of carpet hanging over this opening will admit the hounds, yet darken the place sufficiently to keep out the flies and heat. A twenty-four by twenty- four-inch trapdoor on hinges should be placed in the floor of each compartment. This makes an admirable re- treat for the hounds from the heat and flies, the latter being the curse of all kenneled hounds. A light bed of pine shavings on the bare ground under the floor, with an occasional sprinkling of turpentine, will keep all flies and vermin away, and should not be overlooked, else the entire kennels will become infested with these pests. The flooring should be doubled, with a layer of good roofing paper between, the top 78 THE FOXHOUND floor being matched. Brick and asphalt floors should never be used; concrete is the best of such floors, but I do not advise its use. It is more or less conducive to kennel lameness, which is simply another form of rheumatism. In mild climates the siding may be of boxing, well stripped, but in colder climates it should be plastered, or have the addition of a good building paper, or, better still, some of the many eel grass papers, on the sheathing. Under no circumstances should a metal roof be used. They are cold in winter and intensely hot in summer, and have nothing but their price to recommend them. Shingles are the best. Each compartment should have a narrow door with a latch on the outside, a sliding door twelve by eighteen, six inches from the floor, a sliding window and wire screen open- ing into the rear compartments, placed six feet from floor; an adjustable ventilator arranged to throw the draft against the ceiling when open. A portable sleeping bench can be made with twelve-inch solid back and four-inch rail around sides and front, with short legs six inches high which will prevent crawling under- neath. This style bench can be taken out, KENNELS 79 scrubbed, dried, and ventilated, a most impor- tant consideration. The cook-room should have a small, up- right, single-flue, four-horse power boiler for generating steam, connected to a steam-jack- eted kettle holding sixty gallons. This is a far better way of cooking food than the direct- fire furnaces and kettle, the food cannot be scorched, and can be more thoroughly, evenly, and quickly cooked. The storeroom can be used for the storage of raw and cooked food, straw, brooms, mops, shovels, etc., and should have a good-sized closet for the kennelman's individual use, as well as a well-arranged medicine chest. All four sides of the kennel should have a covered porch from four to six feet wide, upon which should be located the gates connecting the different yards, where the hounds can lie during wet and rainy weather. If the weather is cold enough to require heating the kennels, which is seldom, if ever, the case, a coil of steam pipe can be run through the compartments, connected to and returning the condensation to the boiler. Indi- vidual whelping boxes should be placed in the breeding yard. They should be thirty inches high at back, and forty-two inches in front, 80 THE FOXHOUXD forty-eight by forty-eight in the clear, roof covered with waterproof paper, and hinged so as to lift entire roof easily, the hinges being in front. The opening in front, at either side, should be small, ten by eighteen, and closed by hanging carpet, ventilation being secured by raising the hinged roof the desired height from the floor. A shelf six inches wide, four inches from the floor, should extend all around four sides, thus preventing lying upon the pups, when young, or crowding them into a corner, a practice very common with hound bitches, and the means of killing a large percentage of pups. Straw is the best bedding, and should be re- newed as soon as the bitch is through whelp- ing. Boxes, similar to the whelping boxes, minus the shelf, can be used to great advan- tage in the puppy yard, and should be white- washed inside and out even- fortnight — the wash containing a powerful disinfectant. Urinal posts of four by four oak, set at inter- vals about the yards, will be patronized to the extent of saving the whitewashed fences. The habit can be cultivated by placing a few drops of oil of anise seed occasionally upon the posts. It is an excellent idea to have a hay-rick frame containing straw placed in the larger KENNELS 81 yards. The hounds will enjoy it thoroughly if placed at a height they can jump upon and romp about on. On cold days they will lie upon it, sunning themselves, and in the hot weather will seek its shade. The straw will have to be renewed but seldom. If in a warm climate a trench three feet wide, two feet deep, and ten feet long, board- ed over, covered with dirt and left open at one end, will be much patronized and appre- ciated by hounds in the summer months. This should be closed in winter. Theoretical hunters and breeders may smile at the crudeness of the trench and straw-rick arrangements for the pleasure and comfort of the hounds, but if they will try them they will readily see the advantages they possess. The floors should be sprinkled with dry slaked lime once a week except in wet weather and the walks and benches whitewashed not less than once a month. This lime is a power- ful disinfectant and will keep out fleas, lice, and vermin and tend to harden the hound's feet and kill the germs of mange, distemper, and black tongue. In summer a light sprinkling of sawdust may be put on top of the lime and in the winter a good clean bed of straw; both, however, should 82 THE FOXHOUND be renewed and removed regularly, especially the straw when it becomes damp. In climates where straw is not considered necessary for warmth it serves the purpose of preventing the rubbing off of hair and bed sores frequently seen upon hounds kenneled for any length of time. Shavings while lacking the warmth of straw are a good substitute, especially pine shavings which contain more or less turpentine, the odor of which is very distasteful to fleas, the pest of most kennels. Clean gravel makes excellent kennel yards, and should be thick enough to prevent absorp- tion by the ground beneath of the droppings. Ashes and cinders, while not so good as the gravel, can be substituted; they are cheaper, more easily obtained, and should be renewed oftener. Before putting in a new supply the yard should be liberally sprinkled with lime. Platforms 4x8 feet, made of one-inch rough boards nailed upon 2x4 scantlings to raise them from the ground should be placed in each kennel yard for the hounds to lie upon and sun themselves in good weather and keep dry in damp weather, as they should not be allowed access to the kennel sleeping room except in extremely cold and bad weather. One should avoid chaining a hound, espe- KENNELS 88 cially young ones. The collar not only leaves an unsightly ring or mark on the hair around the neck, but the frequent struggling and pull- ing on the chain pulls the shoulders and legs out of shape and affects the proper develop- ment of other parts of the body. If you have a hound that can scale the ken- nel fence do not chain but clog him, making sure that the clog is heavy enough to prevent him hanging himself. A round cast-iron ball of about fifteen pounds weight will allow him plenty of freedom of movement. A wire stretched across the yard, with ring and chain attached, will allow such a hound ample exer- cise. DISEASES AND REMEDIES CHAPTER VI DISEASES AND REMEDIES I HAVE aimed to describe in plain and simple language the diseases to which hounds are most subject, their signs and symptoms, and the simplest and most rational methods of treating them. There are of course many other diseases to which they are subject which lack of space will not allow me to touch upon. If proper attention is paid to the laws of sanitation and disinfectants are used liberally these diseases may be avoided, as a large percentage of them come under the heading of preventable. Dogs are subject to almost every disease the human system is heir to. Hounds, from the amount of exercise they get and their regular and simple habits, are immune from many of them, being singularly free from those of a cerebral and spinal character so common in other breeds, the most common hound ailment being distemper and skin diseases. 87 88 THE FOXHOUND While this is in no sense a " medical " work, there are doubtless many novices in the raising and handling of hounds to whom the following simple remedies may prove of value. Remem- ber there are no specifics in canine practice and no medicines which are sure cures, always, for the same diseases, but the following remedies have been tried successfully, and if properly administered will be found efficacious in a large majority of cases. The strictest attention to cleanliness and sanitary conditions in a kennel alone will in- sure sound, healthy animals, capable of sus- taining the hard work hounds are called upon to perform during the hunting season. No matter how much confidence one has in the ability and faithfulness of an attendant, con- stant vigilance should never be relaxed by the master in supervising these details. The constant use of powerful disinfectants is highly necessary in every kennel. Solutions of carbolic acid, bichloride of mercury, sul- phate of copper, or chloride of lime can be had of any druggist; and walls, floors, ancl fencing should be sprayed or sprinkled twice a month in summer and once a month in winter. Many disinfecting preparations on the market are equally effective and more convenient on DISEASES AND REMEDIES 89 account of the manner in which they are put up. If the yards and runs are small and over- crowded, twice a year the yards should be well sprinkled with lime and plowed up or spaded over and where possible covered to the depth of two inches with fresh earth or soil. Neglect of this precaution will cause sore and tender feet, and a master or huntsman well knows what this affliction means in a pack in the way of trouble and loss of hunting. Let me emphasize the importance of doing whatever is necessary without delay. Any complaint that is taken in hand in its earlier stages, before it becomes thoroughly estab- lished, is easier to combat than if it has quite got into the system. The information given here will be found especially useful in detect- ing ailments in the early stages. Those own- ers who are blessed with a fair amount of common sense and have some little knowledge of hygienic principles will be able in many cases to diagnose the diseases and to administer such remedies as will be likely gradually but surely to restore the health of the animal. In all serious cases the experience and prac- tical knowledge of a duly qualified veterinary surgeon should be obtained without delay, for though an unskilled person may have a fair 90 THE FOXHOUND amount of knowledge, it is very unwise to trust valuable animals to chance. Every hound should be carefully examined daily, by the hand as well as by the eye. The general condition of the body can be noted at a glance by one accustomed to it, but many minor troubles can be brought to sight by the hand. After each run a careful examination should be made of every hound participating in the run. Holding the hound with one hand by the muzzle, examine eyes, feel ears, place back of hand to nose, run the hand down each leg, squeezing the foot and examining pads and stoppers. Remove thorns or foreign substances which are likely to set up inflammation and incapaci- tate hound from next hunt. Look for barbed- wire cuts, wood ticks, burns, and feel texture of coat and general condition of body. Mange Hounds being kept in large numbers to- gether are naturally greater sufferers from contagious diseases than other breeds of dogs, and mange is the curse of the majority of the packs. While it is true that mange is depend- ent upon contagion, there are several forms of DISEASES AND REMEDIES 91 this loathsome disease that arise from the keep, lack of exercise, improper food, and bed- ding. I have yet to see the attendant who could keep his kenneled pack free of mange and ver- min without dipping. Where a pack consists of twenty or thirty couples, dipping, unless one is prepared for it, is quite an undertaking. The simplest apparatus to be used effectively is made as follows: Construct a galvanized iron tank forty-two inches long, fifteen inches wide, and twenty-eight inches deep. Fill the tank twenty inches deep with a solution of fifty parts tepid water to one part sheep dip, sanitas, phenyle, chloro-naptholeum, West's or any of the many disinfecting fluids — not containing carbolic acid — which are commonly advertised. If preferred you can make your own mange dip at a nominal trifling cost as follows and it will be found equally as effective : Three pounds of Babbitt's concentrated lye and five pounds powdered sulphur in four gal- lons of water; let it set over night; add twenty gallons of water next morning and four ounces of sulphuric acid, and let it set for four hours before using. Place hound in tank and with a dipper pour the liquid over him for two min- utes, wetting each inch of him, being careful of 92 THE FOXHOUND the eyes. Twenty couples can thus be dipped in a comparatively short time without any struggling, splashing or confusion. A few dip- pings will cure the most stubborn case of mange. Dip them every fortnight and your pack will always be clear of mange, skin dis- eases, and vermin. Mange can also be quickly cured with one pound of sulphur, one quart of fish-oil, two ounces each of oil of tar and turpentine, and should be tried before using harsher remedies. This may seem a rather simple treatment for a disease which canine pathologists and veterinarians exhaust volumes upon, but it is based entirely upon practice and not theory, and fully covers the subject, as a trial will demonstrate. Fleas Vermin often are very troublesome to hounds and whole packs are made miserable by the presence of these pests, through the ignorance of the attendant in not knowing how to dispose of them. There is absolutely no excuse for this; the dipping of hounds, recom- mended above, will kill all upon their bodies, and if the floors and walls of the kennels are DISEASES AND REMEDIES 93 sprinkled with a little turpentine, or what is left of the dip, it will be found sufficiently po- tent to exterminate or drive them away, and a flea will never be found on the premises. Eczema Eczema, frequently mistaken for mange, is, however, entirely different, and can only be cured by constitutional treatment requiring time and patience. For several years my dif- ferent kennelmen were constantly treating the hounds for mange, and only after employing the microscope discovered it was eczema. It is non-contagious, is an individual disease, and is never transmitted. It is caused by lack of exercise, constipation, overfeeding, injurious foods, and indigestion, few packs being exempt from it In a majority of cases of eczema in hounds, it is caused from the continued use of starchy foods, while mange is aggravated by feeding too much flesh. Therefore, in either case, the first step is to change the food. If this cannot be accom- plished, add ten grains of hyposulphite of soda for each hound in the kennel, in cooking the food. If for individual cases, Fowler's solu- tion of arsenic will effect a cure ; give six drops 94 THE FOXHOUND twice a day, increasing the dose two drops daily until thirty drops are being given, then decrease the dose in the same manner down to the original dose of six drops. The irritat- ing ointments and mange cures should be avoided entirely, being generally worse than useless. The following lotion is both cooling and healing, and should be applied twice daily to the sore and inflamed parts; four drachms Goulard's extract of lead and four drachms laudanum to a pint of water. The earliest symptom of eczema is an itch- ing, the hound scratching himself on every occasion. Upon examination a redness and thickness will be noticed; no sores are visible as in mange. The second stage cannot be mis- taken. Small vesicles form filled with pus, which on breaking out mat the hair together, causing it to fall out and leave a spot with a wet, inflamed, exuding surface. As compared with mange, eczema is a stub- born disease, hard to cure, and should never be neglected, but treated in its first stage. If unable to diagnose the two, a powerful micro- scope will soon set your doubts at rest, as the parasite always present in mange does not appear in eczema. DISEASES AND REMEDIES 95 Distemper It is not an exaggeration to state that threes- fourths of the canine race die from distemper. It is an acute, infectious disease characterized by inflammation of the mucous membranes of the mouth, nose, throat, stomach, and bowels. Whether it is of microbic origin or originates spontaneously is a much discussed problem, but it is sufficient for our purpose to know that it is highly contagious and subjects should be immediately isolated. It is of the greatest importance that it be detected in its earliest stages and treatment commenced at once. The earliest symptoms are sneezing, a dry, husky cough, and wiping the nose with the paws, then a watery discharge from the nose and the eyes which are more or less reddened. These symptoms may also be present in a bad cold, but if the dog shivers, seeks warmth, and nose is dry and crusty, and a loss of appetite is apparent, treatment for distemper should be commenced immediately. Every man owning hounds should have a clin- ical thermometer; one can be had from any druggist for 75 cents, and at this stage is al- most a certain indication of this disease if it registers above 101 in the rectum (normal). 96 THE FOXHOUND There are several serums and anti-toxin preparations on the market to be given hypo- dermically that are supposed to immunize and to cure distemper. I have tried all of them, and find while they will immunize for a short period, say during a bench show or field trial, the effect soon wears off. They undoubtedly make the attack lighter and assist a hound to quicker recovery, but cannot be depended upon to cure unaided a severe attack. A hound should be watched closely and carefully nursed throughout the sickness, and the many compli- cations especially of stomach and intestines combated. I have tried every remedy I could hear of, and cannot say that I have found them any better than a teaspoonful of salt or a teaspoonful of common kerosene once a day for a grown hound and half for a puppy. Careful nursing, proper food to keep up strength and keeping them from exposure to damp weather will do as much toward recov- ery as medicines. There is generally severe diarrhea which, if not promptly checked, goes into dysentery. The stools are thin, offensive, sometimes black, and more generally streaked with blood. Doses of from two to three tablespoonfuls of castor oil should be given every third or fourth day DISEASES AND REMEDIES 97 and if not checked starched enemas must be resorted to. They should have no water un- less rice has been boiled in it and they should be fed boiled milk with browned flour stirred in it. Ten-grain doses of bismuth daily will also assist in correcting bowel derangements. The most important thing is to keep up the strength and tempt their appetite with a vari- ety of food, including milk and eggs. When a hound quits eating, the case is serious indeed, and forced feed should be resorted to, eggs and milk with a little whisky or brandy added should be given; several tablespoonfuls five or six times a day, or a teaspoonful of syrup hypo- phosphites several times a day is a most excel- lent tonic. At the end of the first week they should be treated for the abscess that frequently forms at end of spine or root of tail. Grasp tail with left hand and pull it back, with finger and thumb of right hand squeeze anus hard; this will burst the abscess. Repeat in Hvt days. Paralysis, so common in this disease, is caused by this abscess. Chorea Chorea is one of the distressing after-effects 98 THE FOXHOUND of distemper. The most frequent symptoms are a spasmodic jerking or twitching of the muscles; while distressing to look at, the hound suffers no physical pain whatever. It is a most obstinate disease and a hound is seldom worth the trouble necessary to effect a cure. Give five drops of Fowler's solution of arsenic, in- crease the dose daily two drops until up to thirty-six drops; then decrease the dose five drops daily until back to the five drops. If no decided improvement is noticed, give the hound away. If you feel encouraged, go through the treatment again and again. Remember arsenic is poisonous. Worms It is a fact not generally known that all pups are infested with worms and frequently when ten days old; therefore do not wait or look for symptoms, but treat all pups when Rvq weeks old, whether they show any signs or not. How- ever, if the following symptoms are present at four weeks of age, do not hesitate to treat them. All of the worm medicines advertised are good for grown dogs, but many of them will kill or stunt pups of this age. The presence of worms in pups is indicated DISEASES AND REMEDIES 99 as follows: constant whining and moaning as if in pain, capricious appetite, bloating of the abdomen, sometimes distended astonishingly, discharge from the bowels frequent and wa- tery, with a reddish color. Give on an empty stomach, preceded the night before by a des- sert-spoonful of castor oil, one teaspoonful of the following: Worms seed oil 65 drops Oil of turpentine 8 drops Olive oil 2 ounces Castor oil 3 ounces Do not feed for several hours afterwards. For tapeworm, on an empty stomach give one pill containing thirty-two grains areca nut (freshly grated), eight grains santonine, and five drops male fern, followed with dose of cas- tor oil in four hours. If bov/els are loose after treatment, boil rice in drinking water and give five grains bismuth twice a day until checked. Repeat dose weekly until no segments of tape- worm are passed in actions. The hookworm is a parasite that is killing thousands of dogs annually, especially puppies. Few are familiar with it and lose their dogs without suspecting its presence. The first symptoms of hookworm are a dull, sleepy look", 100 THE FOXHOUND a lazy gait, lying around, loss of appetite; the second stages are rapid emaciation, dead look- ing coat of hair, the ball of the eye turning white, gums, tongue, and roof of mouth white and bloodless, and a generally anemic appear- ance. It is unlike any of the worms dogs are sub- ject to; it never gets larger than a small cotton thread, nor over half an inch in length, and is very hard to find. It does not live upon the food taken by the dog, but fastens itself to the mucous membrane lining of the stomach and intestines by its hook-shaped head and feeds upon the blood of its victim until it becomes weak and anemic and dies without apparent cause. Unlike other worms, they do not enter through the mouth or throat of their subjects, but burrow their way through any portion of the body, frequently starting in through the feet and legs — a post mortem will show little red spots in the intestines where they have done their work. While any and all the vermifuges and worm medicines sold will expel the ordinary worms, they are absolutely worthless in combating the hookworm. The only successful remedy I have ever tried is to give a dose of Epsom salts at night, and next morning on an empty stomach DISEASES AND REMEDIES 101 five grains of thymol (for pups), followed in an hour with another dose of salts (under no circumstances give oil) ; repeat this every other day for three treatments and if no improve- ment is noted in condition of the patient at the end of ten days repeat. Remove the hound from its quarters, as it will soon become rein- fected as the very ground becomes impregnated with them and the germ is almost indestruc- tible. It is an absolute impossibility to raise pups in kennels that have once become infected with the hookworm. Hydrophobia Hydrophobia is generally supposed to affect hounds more frequently than any other breed; this is not a fact. Hydrophobia is extremely rare in any breed, in fact reputable writers declare there is no such disease, claiming it to be one of imagination only. Occasionally a case may occur in a hound, which will commun- icate it to a whole pack, all of whom may have to be destroyed, whereas a dog of another breed having it would be detected and destroyed be- fore he would have any opportunity of com- municating it to but few others. When hounds do have hydrophobia it is most 102 THE FOXHOUND frequently in the form of dumb rabies and not the violent, maniacal form that causes them to " run amuck." Ashmont says: "The dumb, or swollen form of rabies is a peculiar type of hydrophobia without the violent irritative stage. There is decidedly less excitation of the brain; the violent paroxysms, the constant motion, the disposition to bite, and the propensity to stray are all absent, or present in only a slight degree, and the animal is quiet, silent, and dejected. Paralysis of the muscles of the lower jaw is a characteristic symptom of this form of malady, and manifests itself early in the attack. The jaw drops and the mouth remains constantly open. In rare cases a partial control of the muscles is retained for a time, sufficient to lift the jaw and allow the animal to bite if sufficiently irritated. " Rarely more than a few hours, possibly three or four, elapse before the disease mani- fests itself. Before this paralysis appears there is great difficulty in swallowing, and the poor dog will plunge his muzzle into water up to his very eyes, in order that he may get one drop of water into the back part of his mouth to cool his parched throat. In this form of rabies the flow of mucus and saliva is abundant, the same dripping from the mouth. The voice, DISEASES AND REMEDIES 103 changed and of a hoarse tone, is seldom heard, and that peculiar combination of bark and howl, characteristic of the violent form of the dis- ease, is entirely absent." Black Tongue I give this description of dumb rabies in full to enable the reader to detect the difference between it and a peculiar disease that hounds, especially in the South, are frequently afflicted with. Though I have read all the best works on the diseases of the dog, published both in this country and in England, I have never seen it mentioned. It does not seem to have come under the observation of canine specialists. It is called "Black Tongue," is generally fatal, and is contagious. The symptoms are almost identi- cal with those of dumb rabies, with the ex- ception that the tongue turns black and the mucous membrane linings of the throat are sore and inflamed. It is only recently that a remedy has been found, all cases formerly re- sisting treatment and proving fatal. The remedy and treatment are as follows: Paint the inside of the lips and tongue with tincture of bloodroot once a day, and give a 104 THE FOXHOUND tablet of one-twentieth of a grain of bichloride of mercury three times a day. Keep the hound on a milk diet until cured, and on soft foods for some time gradually returning to solids. If the hound will not drink milk freely, add a little brandy and beaten eggs, to milk, and pour a few spoonfuls down the throat every few hours. Poison Hounds at liberty frequently pick up poisons which may have been laid down for vermin, etc. The principal ingredients which hounds are likely to get in this way are arsenic, carbolic acid, phosphorus, and strychnine. Hounds are such inveterate creatures for poking their noses into strange places that they soon find any- thing tasty, and in this way greedily eat. If by chance a dog should eat any poison, the first step is to empty the stomach by a quick acting emetic such as tartar emetic, or even warm water with salt or mustard in small quantities, afterwards giving some antidote, such as lard, milk and egg, olive oil, etc., in large quantitty. Castor oil is also very useful, and if there is much pain, a dose of laudanum every three or four hours. DISEASES AND REMEDIES 105 It is easy to tell by the continued spasmodic convulsions that a dog has taken poison. If there is much depression a little whisky or brandy may be given at frequent intervals. An antidote for both arsenic and strychnine poison- ing should always be kept in the kennel, and the huntsman should familiarize himself with the characteristic symptoms of each and carry a supply of antidote with him to the field, especially if there has been any friction with the farmers in the neighborhood. The symp- toms of arsenic poisoning are indicated by vomiting and swollen tongue and the symptoms of strychnine are twitching and jerking of the limbs and muscles. Foul Mouth Owing to the fact that hounds are kenneled and have more soft foods than the average dog, they frequently have sore or foul mouth as indicated by the deposit of tartar on their teeth, sore and bleeding gums accompanied with slobbering or flow of saliva from the mouth. The remedy is simple and quick: give two tablespoonsful of castor oil and pour a teaspoonful of ten per cent, solution of perman- 106 THE FOXHOUND ganate of potash in the mouth daily (not down the throat) for several days and it will dis- appear. Soft Feet This is one of the most serious, annoying troubles kenneled hounds are subject to. It is generally caused by mange and it is always safe to treat the feet first for mange with remedy given elsewhere; then after a few treatments for mange the pads may be hardened or indurated by soaking them daily in a strong decoction of white oak bark with a teaspoonful of powdered alum added to the quart. If the pads are worn through to the quick and you deem it necessary to hunt the hound, cover the pad well with collodion before casting off, it will protect the hound through quite a long day's work. Canker Ear canker is a very common disease among hounds and is indicated by frequent shaking of the head and rubbing the ear with the paw. It is divided into two sections, internal and ex- ternal. The former affects the inside passages DISEASES AND REMEDIES 107 of the ear causing pain, and the hound in violently shaking the head for ease makes the flaps or end of the ears sore which soon become affected and if not attended to the sores eat away sections of the ear. A weak solution of nitrate of silver poured into the ear daily is good, but it discolors the hair, the hand, and the clothing of user, and I have found a tea- spoonful of one part creolin and twenty parts water poured in the ear daily and manipulated by the hand, and an hour later the same quan- tity of powdered borax, equally effective. The eating sore on the flap or end of the ear can be similarly treated after having first been touched lightly with a stick of lunar caustic along the raw edges. Rickets This is a term applied to young, growing pups with ill-shaped legs, misshapen joints or the springing or standing over in pastern joints. It is caused by bad feeding, enfeebled or imma- ture parents, and generally the lack of suffi- cient bone-forming material. Pups suffering from rickets should have an abundance of light, air and sunshine, given only lime water to drink, and have phosphate of lime sprinkled 108 THE FOXHOUND over their food, which should be given them often and liberally. Lice Farm-raised puppies are frequently troubled with lice and literally eaten up before their presence is suspected or discovered, the con- stant scratching and uneasiness being attrib- uted to fleas. A close and careful examination is necessary to detect them, as they burrow almost into the skin. A puppy cannot thrive or fatten as long as they are present. One vigor- ous application of the following mixture will rid them of these pests: Kerosene oil, one pint; melted lard, one-half pint; spirits of tur- pentine, one-half gill. Eyes Eye troubles are rather common in hounds, owing to the exposure of the haw of the eye and the nature of their work in running through bushes and briars. Keep a bottle of saturated solution of borax (boracic acid) handy, bathe the injured member carefully and put a few drops in the eye. Ulcers or specks frequently form on the ball of the eye, especially after a DISEASES AND REMEDIES 109 weakening disease, or when a hound is in poor condition. Touch the ulcer with a feather or small camel's hair brush dipped in calomel and bathe the eye with borax water. Wounds Hounds are constantly receiving wounds, a large percentage of them from barbed-wire fences. It is, of course, impossible to advise here on every kind of wound which may come to readers' dogs, but just a few words on gen- eral principles. If the wound is a straight one, the parts should be cleansed and the bleeding stopped. This should be followed by clipping the hair close to the wound, then sew the edges together with sufficient stitches, and finally cover with wool which has been saturated with boracic acid, and bandage over securely. Watch must be kept to see that the surface of the wound does not heal too quickly and so enclose pus or matter, which will eventually find an outlet farther away in the form of an abscess. Before putting in the stitches make sure there is no foreign matter in the wound. If there is any doubt on this point, apply a hot poultice night and morning until sure. It is usually necessary to muzzle the dog for a few 110 THE FOXHOUND days or he will tear off the bandage and pos- sibly make the wound worse by pulling out the stitches to allay any irritation. Dogs will as- sist nature by licking unbandaged wounds. Punctured wounds should always be exam- ined minutely for foreign bodies and then treated as above. In cases where the wound has a ragged edge it may not be possible to put in stitches, and there may arise wounds that can neither be stitched nor bandaged. In such cases the openings must be bathed with the bo- racic acid lotion several times a day. It is im- possible to emphasize too strongly the impor- tance of removing any foreign body from a wound, for if such be left in it may cause blood- poisoning and death. THE BENCH SHOW CHAPTER VII THE BENCH SHOW PREPARING hounds for the bench show requires a lot of work and patience on the part of the handler and a hound with good, amiable disposition that does not object to handling. The first thing to be done by the exhibitor is to thoroughly familiarize him- self with the scale of points by which hounds are judged. I was chairman of the committee that formulated this standard, which has been universally adopted by all the foxhunting asso- ciations. (It will be found elsewhere in this book.) The hound, being a sporting dog, condition is everything for exhibition purposes, as excel- lence in symmetry and formation will be lost on the judge if condition is bad. A hound is judged on his apparent fitness to do his duty, and if loaded with flesh instead of muscle will surely be set back by the judge if he understands 113 114 THE FOXHOUND his business. I have when judging them given many a hound " the gate " for this reason. Instructions for training should be followed as nearly as possible, but as there are many who probably have not such facilities, to them I say: Give all the exercise you possibly can, have hound follow you as much as possible. Rub, knead, and roll all his muscles a half-hour at a time, and not less than three times a day. Brush briskly with a stiff brush, and rub off with soft chamois skin. Clean his teeth thor- oughly, removing all discolorations. Give sev- eral good dressings to his coat, with two ounces oil of tar, one-half pound sulphur in quart of fish oil, followed by bath next day in tepid water, using yolks of eggs or milk or soap. Feed as many eggs as his stomach will stand without becoming bilious and let him lap a pint of milk daily. Teach him to lead kindly with the chain and to stand perfectly still, with head and neck ex- tended, feet and legs straight and well under him; to trot after his leader and to carry a gay stern. Do not feed for twenty-four hours pre- vious to judging. A few minutes before tak- ing into the judging ring, however, give a small piece of raw beef, say about the size of two fingers. THE BENCH SHOW 115 In the ring carry a small piece of fresh meat concealed in your hand and let him smell it occasionally; this will inject considerable life and animation into him that otherwise might be lacking. While in the ring do not crowd your dog up close to the judge, but get as far away as the ring will permit. If he is a good one, the judge will never overlook him. If the sawdust in the ring is deep, clean a space that his feet and toes may be seen. If you do not succeed in getting his muscles hard and firm, stomach off, and body devoid of surplus flesh, forfeit your entrance money and keep him at home. When showing on the bench, ascertain the location of the nearest vacant lot or park to the exhibition building, and give him a good long romp of not less than an hour daily. If accustomed to the " patent biscuits " usually fed at the bench shows feed on lean beef or mutton. If these instructions are carried out faithfully the condition of your dog will remain good for several weeks; otherwise the close of the first circuit will find him a physical wreck. When at home between dates of shows, keep up his work, even if it be only for a few days. Accustom him to strangers and strange sights and by the time you have him in fit condition to 116 THE FOXHOUND win you will doubtless have ruined a good hound for field work. Individual hounds should be taken or sent to a bench show in a crate. This should have solid bottoms and ends, with hinged door. The sides and top should be slatted with good spaces be- tween, as many dogs en-route to the shows are annually smothered in hot express cars by hav- ing merchandise thrown upon and around the crate. The sides should be solid for a space of six inches at the bottom to prevent the straw from falling out. Never send hounds without a handler. The fair promises of the manage- ment to have your entries properly cared for and exhibited are forgotten as soon as the many duties of the show devolve upon them, and they are lucky indeed if they are taken from the bench except while in the show ring. DONT'S CHAPTER VIII dont's WHILE many of these are a repetition, appearing in a different form else- where in this book, they are collected here for frequent and careful reading and if adhered to will prove most invaluable in the conduct of a successful pack and kennel. Don't breed a valuable stud dog several times in one season. One service is just as good, if not better, than half a dozen if given at the right time. Don't prevent a bitch that is in whelp from eating whatever she pleases, though if you find she has a penchant for filthy matter, carrion, and other flotsam and jetsam, let her have her way or, better, give her sulphur in her food. Don't keep your bitches in whelp chained up or kenneled continually; they should have especially the last three weeks before whelping, plenty of gentle walking exercise every day, 119 120 THE FOXHOUND Don't neglect to feed your brood bitches with every food that will strengthen and stim- ulate the mother in the trying periods of preg- nancy and while suckling pups. Precipitated phosphate of lime should be given to the bitch in her food during the last weeks of preg- nancy and after whelping, and then to the puppies until two or three months old. Half a teaspoonful daily to a pup is sufficient. Don't, if you can avoid it, keep your bitches in whelp in kennels or yards where they must continually jump up on their hind legs in order to look upon the outer world. Have open wire or slats for fencing and divisions. Don't feed cornmeal alone day in and day out, as many kennelmen unfortunately do. It is handy to cook and cheap, but its constant use heats the blood, lowers the system, and eczema and mange too often follow as a natural con- sequence. Never feed it alone in hot weather. Don't allow your very young puppies to run with your old dogs. Besides the danger from injury in romping with heavier dogs, there is also a danger of the older dogs snapping at the youngsters and giving them a nip that will disfigure them. Don't feed liver and lights to your dogs ex- cept occasionally if you value their health. DONTS 121 Such stuff may fill an aching void for the time being, but there is no flesh producing substance in it. The liver will disarrange the internals and you may as well feed so much sponge as the leathery, indigestible lights. Don't forget the bones. Dogs kept in ken- nels have not, as a rule, a very merry time of it at best, and a good big knuckle bone will serve to while away an odd hour or two, be- sides cleaning the teeth and inducing a healthy flow of saliva. But use discretion, avoiding chicken and small bones. Don't throw in one bone for two dogs. Reason obvious. Neither give a bone to bitches suckling or running with puppies. The mater- nal instinct is strong, but the mother while gnawing the bone is not to be depended on and may give a too venturesome and confiding puppy an ugly bite. Don't neglect ventilation in the kennels. Arrange this so that there is no direct draught on the dogs. A good plan is to have an open- ing under the eaves of the kennel and inside nail a board the size of the aperture but slant- ing inwards at an angle of forty-five degrees, so the air is directed to the top of the kennel first. Don't feed raw meat to a dog suffering 122 THE FOXHOUND from diarrhea. Feed starchy foods and rice water. A good stiff gruel of Hour and water will stop the complaint in its early stages. Don't allow the kennel yards to become lit- tered with manure. Besides being unhealthy and a source of worms, the manure is a salable commodity and should be regularly taken up, dried, and sold to the morocco leather dress- ers. The bones that accumulate around a ken- nel can also be disposed of. All these little things count in the conduct of a large kennel. Don't feed scraps from the table without carefully looking them over before doing so. In the dog's eagerness after dainties he may swallow a hidden fish bone, chicken bone, splinter, or other pointed substance that may cause trouble afterward. Don't feed highly seasoned messes that come from the table just because they are handy and the dog will eat them. It will cost you less in the long run to feed sound, whole- some dog food. Don't use the whip for every mistake your dog makes. Dogs are not like lions in a cage to be subdued by a show of force. Talk to the dog and prove to him by action and expres- sion that he has done wrong. A dog follows his master's expression more than the lash. DONTS 123 Don't lose your temper and kick a dog. Don't enter a kennel without speaking to the dogs, and especially so at night or in the dark. The magic power of the voice may save you from a bite. Don't run your dogs after a meal, nor yet just before it. How would you like to run half a mile after a good meal? Don't think because you know what you wish your dog to do that he can grasp your mean- ing offhand and without effort on your part; dogs are intelligent, but they are not mind- readers. Don't wash puppies when they are very young, unless they happen to get into some filth that cannot be removed when dry by the brush. Don't wash puppies until at least six months old. Grooming and " elbow grease " every day will improve the coat and do more good than washing. Don't let your pups or pup get into the habit of barking violently, a most tiresome trick, caused by idleness and not enough outdoor exercise, and frequently hereditary. Don't administer liquids to dogs while the mouth is open. Close the mouth tightly, hold the hand over his nose and lower jaw, and by making a funnel of the inside lips, keep the 124 THE FOXHOUND head erect and pour the liquid through the teeth. Don't give pills in a careless manner. If you do, the dog will slip it under his tongue and spit it out when you are not watching. Drop the pill as far behind the tongue as pos- sible. With two fingers push it farther back. In his efforts to expel it, it will slip down the throat. Don't fail to give your dog plenty of good, healthy exercise every day. Lack of it will invariably cause indigestion, constipation, and various other complaints that can easily be avoided by carefully observing this precaution. Don't deprive a sick dog of anything that he will eat. In many cases it is necessary to tempt him to eat so as to preserve his strength. Afterwards you can gradually change the diet to food that will prove more suitable for him. Don't overlook the fact that a thorough dis- infection of a kennel is absolutely essential to insure perfect health among dogs. Frequently whitewashing of woodwork de- stroys offensive odors, insects, and vermin. The ground around the Kennel should be swept every day or so and once a week sprinkled with a solution of crude carbolic acid and water. APPENDIX GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS, AS APPLIED TO THE HOUND Apple-headed. Skull round instead of flat on top. Beefy. Big, beefy hindquarters. Blaze. A white mark up the face. Brush. The hair on tail of a hound. Cat-foot. A short, round foot, with the knuckles high and well developed; like a cat's, short, round, and compact. Chaps or Chops. The pendulous lips. Character. The combination of points contributing to the whole make-up and giving to a hound that which is desired in his par- ticular variety. Cloddy or Cobby. Thick-set, short-coupled, and low in stature. Couplings. The length or space between the tops of the shoulder-blades and tops of the hip-joints, or buckle-bones. A hound is accord- ingly spoken of as long or short " in the coup- lings." 127 128 THE FOXHOUND Cow-hocked. The hocks turning inward; hocks that turn in, like those of a cow. Deep in Brisket. Deep in chest; deep from withers to point where chest and brisket meet. Dew-claws. The extra claws found occa- sionally on the legs or superfluous claw inside the hind leg just above the foot. Dish-face. This term describes hound whose nasal bone is higher at the nose than at the top. Domed Skull. Round skull. Flat-sided. Flat in ribs ; opposite of well- ribbed up. Flews. The chops, or overhanging lips of the upper jaw. The term is chiefly applied to hounds or other deep-mouthed dogs. The lips. Hare-foot. Foot like that of a hare, long and narrow. ' Haw. The red inside eyelid, usually hid- den; the red membrane inside the lower eye- lid. Shelly. Too narrow and light in body. Sickle-tail. A tail forming a semi-circle, like a sickle. Snipy. Too pointed in muzzle. Sorry. Worthless. GLOSSARY 129 Splay Foot. A flat, awkward foot, usually turned outward; the opposite of " cat-foot.'* Stern. The tail. Stop. The indentation across the skull be- tween the forehead and nose. Style. Showy, spirited, or gay demeanor. Throatiness. Overmuch loose skin or flesh under throat. Timber. Bone. Tricolor. Black, tan, and white. Tucked-up. Tucked-up loin, as in the Greyhound. Wall-eye. A blue mottled eye. Wrinkle. Loose-folding skin over the skull. FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL RUNNING RULES AND REGULATIONS National Foxhunt ers' Association Revised November, 1902, by W. S. Walker, Leland Hathaway and Roger Williams, Com- mittee, and since amended. The stakes and the order of their running shall be as follows: The Derby Stake, for hounds under 18 months of age. The entrance fee to the Derby Stake to be $3.00. All-Age Stake, $4.00; the All-Age Stake to be divided into three classes, as fol- lows: Speed and driving, hunting and trail- ing, and endurance. First, second, third prizes to be awarded in each class, and letters of com- mendation in the discretion of the judges. But in the Derby only first, second, third and letters of commendation. Upon the winner of the highest general aver- 130 FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 131 age in the three classes of the Champion Stake will be conferred the title of champion. Rule I. — No nominations can be taken or entries made except by or through a subscriber, who shall be a member of the Club, and thereby becomes responsible for said entry. Rule 2. — The entrance money must in all cases accompany the nomination. No entry shall be valid until fee is paid in full. Rule 3. — The number of entries from any one kennel or pack shall be limited to four. The age of a dog shall be calculated up to and inclusive of the first day of the hunt. Rule 4 (a). — Subscribers must file with the secretary the names of hounds they intend starting on or before 12 o'clock M. of the day preceding the trial. Every hound entered at any trial held under these rules must be the bona fide property of the person making such entry. The entries must clearly identify the dog by name, and if known, its date of birth, name of its sire and dam, and the name of its breeder; should any of these particulars be un- known to the subscriber, it must be so stated on the entry blank. Every hound entered must be registered or listed in the N. F. H. Associa- tion Stud Book, and the penalty for non-regis- tration or listing is disqualification and the for- 132 THE FOXHOUND feiture of entry fee and prizes won. Any sub- scriber taking an entry in a stake and not pre- fixing the word " names " to a hound which is not his own property, shall forfeit the hound's chance of the stake. He shall also deliver in writing to the secretary the name of the bona fide owner of the hound named by him. B. (i) — A hound to be eligible to registra- tion must have a full pedigree for three gener- ations, or in the absence of such pedigree must have been a first-prize winner at a foxhound field trial recognized by the National Foxhunt- ers' Association. If less than three generations only can be given, a hound can be " listed " in the Stud Book upon payment of 25 cents, and a certificate of same will be issued. Such listings will be published in the Stud Book. (2) — No change in a hound's name shall be permitted after it has been published in the Stud Book. (3) — A hound may be re-registered upon change of ownership, but a new number shall not be given. (4) — The breeder of a hound is the indi- vidual or partnership owning or leasing the dam at the time of her being bred. Rule 4. — If any subscriber should enter a hound by a different name from that in which FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 133 it has last run in public, without also adding the late name of the hound, said hound shall be disqualified. A castrated dog or spayed bitch shall be barred. Any such running shall forfeit any and all prizes won. Rule 6. — Objections or protests to any hound must be made in writing to the directors and accompanied by a deposit of $10, which shall be forfeited if the objection is not sus- tained by the directors; should an objection be made which cannot at the time be substantiated or disproved, the hound may be allowed to run under the protest, the Club retaining his win- nings until the objection is either withdrawn or decided. Should he be disqualified, the others shall be placed the same as if he had not been in the stake. Rule 7. — The directors may refuse any entry they may think proper to exclude ; and no person who has misconducted himself in any manner in connection with the N. F. H. A. shall be allowed to compete in any trials that may be held under the auspices of this Club. Rule 8. — No entry can be withdrawn with- out the consent of the directors. Parties so offending may be debarred at future trials or penalized, at the discretion of the di- rectors, 134 THE FOXHOUND Rule 9. — Any owner, his handler, or his deputy may hunt a hound, but it must be one or the other. When the owner has deputed another person to handle for him he must not interfere in any manner, nor will he be allowed to ride to hounds. Rule 10. — Riders to hounds shall be limited to the handlers with entries in that particular hunt, the judges, the M. F. H., flag steward, and members of the press who obtain such per- mission from the directors. Rule 11. — The M. F. H. shall give the han- dlers any information they need as to direc- tion to enable them to keep within reasonable distance of the hounds. He shall instruct han- dlers and outsiders not to converse with, or in the hearing of the judges, about the work done or merits or demerits of any of the competing hounds. It shall be his duty to report any and all infringements of this rule to the directors. The offender shall be subject to a fine or expul- sion from the grounds at the discretion of the directors. He shall ride to the hounds, and shall direct the handlers and assist the judges in every proper way possible. It shall be his duty to notify, by conspicuously posting in camp the night before, the hour and place of starting on the following day. He shall also FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 135 call the hunt off. He shall carefully examine all hounds entered, and if any are affected with contagious diseases or any bitches in season he shall promptly report same in writing to the directors, who shall officially notify owners or nominators and bar same from the trial. He shall designate by what marking, device or colors each entry shall be marked to aid the judges in disinguishing them, and no dog shall be marked otherwise than as he directs. He shall furnish the judges each day with a list of the dogs running, and distinctive markings. Rule 12. — The field stewards, where practi- cable, should be sworn in as deputy sheriffs. They shall be held responsible for the proper conduct and behavior of spectators and partici- pants, and will see that spectators are kept at a proper distance from and do not interfere with the hounds participating. They shall also see that there is no destruction of property. They shall report to the directors or M. F. H. throughout the day for instructions. Rule 13. — The flag steward shall, if possi- ble, keep both hounds and spectators in view, and by a series of flag signals notify the field stewards of the general direction of the hounds. He shall act as assistant to M. F. H. in directing and calling off the hounds. 136 THE FOXHOUND Rule 14. — There shall not be less than three or more than five judges. They must not be interested directly or indirectly in any of the hounds, and must be hunters of large foxhunt- ing experience, and capable of closely follow- ing the hounds. They shall be subject to the general rules of the Club and report for duty each day to the directors. They shall have the . fullest discretion, consistent with the rules, in determining the merits of the hounds, and in the field shall have the ordering off of the hunt. Should an appointed judge be unable to fulfill his engagement or become disabled, the directors shall have the power to fill the vacancy, or not, in such manner as they see fit. ORule 1 5. — Judges are requested to select a reserve award, in case one of the winners should be disqualified, that the prize may not fail of being awarded. The judges shall con- tinue the running during the day and from day to day until a majority of them are satisfied. Rule 1 6.; — Their final decisions shall be ren- dered in writing to the directors; they cannot recall or reverse them on any pretext whatever after being so given. If any person openly im-r pugns the decision or action of a judge on the grounds, or in the camp, he may be fined in FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 137 the discretion of the directors not more than $25 or less than $5. Rule 17. — No person shall attempt to influ- ence a judge's decision either before, during, or after a race. If a party so offending is £ member, he shall be expelled from the Club; if otherwise, he shall be fined and sent from the meeting. Rule 18. — The handler hunting a dog may speak to and urge him on in a proper manner, but he shall be cautioned twice by the judges or M. F. H. for making unnecesary noise or disorderly conduct, and if after such a caution he continues to so offend, he may be ordered from the field. Should a handler ride over or purposely interfere with an opponent's hound, the owner of the hound so ridden over or inter- fered with shall have the privilege of saying which one of the offender's entries shall be barred, or shall have the option of selecting at the end of that particular hunt one of the of- fender's hounds, which will remain in the stake, and he shall be entitled to claim one-half of said hound's winnings, if any. Rule 19. — A hound that fails by action or note to work fairly on a trail, and runs " cun- ning M to get an advantage, shall be discounted in the discretion of the judges. 138 THE FOXHOUND Rule 20. — A hound left on " a jump " or thrown out " on a loss taken off," shall not be penalized if it works diligently to "get in** and succeeds in a reasonable time. Rule 21. — A hound "thrown out" and 41 coming in " and refusing to hunt or " go in " to others in full cry, shall be marked and barred. Rule 22. — Should the pack become sepa- rated the judges must divide and carefully note the work of each pack, and immediately upon re-assembling individually report work noted. Rule 23. — A hound lost during a run and not returning until the itriajs are partly ior wholly finished, shall be given credit, provided the judges are satisfied that he has been run- ning. Testimony of interested parties not to be taken on this point. Rule 24. — Any person allowing a hound to get loose and join in the chase shall be fined not less than $5. If the loose hound belongs to an owner of one engaged in that particular chase, such owner shall be fined in the discre- tion of the directors, unless he can prove to the satisfaction of the directors that he had not been able to take up his hound after finish- ing his last chase. The fact, however, of other FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 139 hounds joining in shall not necessarily end the cll3.SC Rule 25.— No hound shall be eligible to com- pete in trials that has been hunted upon the grounds where the trials are to be held within six months preceding the date of the trials. Rule 26.— The entries in a stake shall be numbered and divided into packs, in the discre- tion of the directors; said division shall be made by drawing lots under supervision of the judges. When possible, a kennel or owner should not have more than one hound in each pack. After the first round the judges will order such hounds as they elect to run in the following rounds. In the general average the judges shall make their decision upon the uni- form principle that the hound showing the most aptitude and ability to find, trail and catch a fox is the winner. The principle is to be car- ried out by estimating the work done upon the following scale of points: 1 — Speed and Driving 5° 2 — Speed and Driving 35 3 — Speed and Driving 15 I— Hunting and Trailing 5° 140 THE FOXHOUND 2 — Hunting and Trailing. ... 35 3 — Hunting and Trailing. ... 15 1 — Endurance 50 2 — Endurance 35 3 — Endurance 15 THE END OUTINQ PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK ©U3UM