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THE
FRUIT CULTIVATOR’S MANUAL,
CONTAINING AMPLE DIRECTIONS
FOR THE
CULTIVATION OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FRUITS
INCLUDING THE
CRANBERRY, THE FIG, AND GRAPE,
WITH DESCRI@TIVE LISTS OF THE MOST ADMIRED VARIETIES.
AND A CALENDAR,
'
SHOWING THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN THE ORCHARD ANT
FRUIT GARDEN EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR.
THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATH OF THE UNITED STATZS.
By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN,
Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist.
NEW. YORK:
C.M SAXTON AND COMPANY,
AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS,
No. 140 FULTON STREET,
1857.
a
{Entered acvording to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred
and Forty-seven by Tuomas Brrpceman, in the Clerk’s Office of the Dis
trict Court of the nited States, for the Southern District of New-Yors.]
T Ow
Qa ea 2
IS Fs
“PREFACE.
Tuts treatise forms the third part of “‘ The Young Gar-
dener’s Assistant,” which, when first issued, in 1829, con-
tained only 96 pages. Since that period, so constant has
been the demand for the work, that numerous editions have
been published; and being made to embrace the three most
important branches of gardening, the entire work has
extended to upward of five hundred pages. As each branch
forms a distinct subject, the author has been induced to pub-
lish the ninth edition in three separate volumes, each of
which is complete in itself. The first contains ample direc-
tions for the cultivation of culinary vegetables and herbs; the
second is designed for the cultivator of flowers; and the
present volume is intended to qualify the reader for the
superintendence of his own orchard and fruit garden.
Those who wish to obtain a book embracing the three
subjects, can be accommodated with the tenth edition of the
Young Gardener’s Assistant, in octavo form, and which is
destined to remain for some time to come, the American
standard work on Horticulture in general.
It is presumed that the pomologist will find in this little
volume more information on the subject than he could rea-
sonably expect in so small a compass. All the most esteemed
species of fruit are treated of under distinct heads, to which
is added a descriptive list of the finest varieties under culti-
vation ; and from the several descriptive lists of fruits having
been selected from the catalogues of the most eminent nur-
serymen in our country, it is presumed that they are well
calculated to suit the generality of cultivators.
The varieties of the different species of fruit under culti
vation are by far too numerous to encourage any attempt to
publish a complete description of all. Even to enumerate
them would be a difficult task, owing to the great uncer-
tainty of their true names, and the multiplicity of names
ii _ ‘PREFACE.
under which they are known in different places. Those
cultivators who are more anxious to raise large quantities of
trees for sale, than to test their characteristics, are often led
into error by cherishing the belief that the names of all the
varieties they propagate are indisputably correct ; and hence
itis that so many of our fruits are frequently sold under
wrong names. Persons who purchase trees under such cir-
cumstances, on discovering a mistake, are apt to compare
the fruit with others of a similar character, and very fre-
quently adopt synonymous names, which increases the evil
to such an extent, that, unless a nurseryman tests all the
various kinds by specimen trees kept for the purpose in his
own orchard, he cannot always be certain what variety he is
selling. I do not, however, by these remarks intend to
reflect on any of our respectable nurserymen, because the
vast improvement making every year in their catalogues is
a convincing proof that they are aiming at perfection in their
collections.
In the following pages I have endeavoured to do justice to
each article, by embodying all the essential points of cultiva-
tion, and as our native vines are destined to become very
generally cultivated in the United States, I have occupied
over sixteen pages in treating of vine culture, and can truly
say that I have thoroughly weighed every point before put-
ting my pen to paper, and have not in any case adopted
mere speculative theory, as is too often done by compilers
of gardening books.
As Iam not disposed to tire the reader with a lengthy
preface, I shall conclude by reminding him that the Calen
dar and Index is intended as a key to the body of the work ;
thus, the most important business of each month is briefly
shown, with figures of reference to that particular page
which treats more fully on the subject. The advantages of
this plan must be evident to the most superficial observer.
T. BRIDGEMAN.
CONTENTS.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN.
Page.
Suggestions on the choice of a situation for an orchard, 7
Of the best methods of preparing the various kinds of soil, 8
Directions for transplanting fruit trees, - = 4°59
A communication from a friend, showing his plan of
replanting trees, - - - - = 2 einen
Hints on the arrangement of trees, with a view to ob-
tain successional crops of fruit.—Different soils
described, suited to the various kinds of fruit, - 12
OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH
FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE.
Remedies for the prevention and destruction of insects, 13
The best methods of curing diseases in fruit trees, - 14
Composition to be used as a wash for fruit trees, at
the time of pruning, - - - - - - 15
Some of the most annoying insects and reptiles described, 16
An earnest appeal to all agriculturists and horticultu-
rists, showing the importance of encouraging the
inhabitants of cities to preserve their ashes and
soot in a dry state, for use on the land, - - 17
OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT
TREES AND VINES.
The primary object of pruning explained, - - - 21
Several methods described of pruning and training the
vine, &c. - - - - - - - ° = 22
The benefits arising from judicious pruning, - - 23
Necessary Implements for pruning, &. <- - - 24
FI CONTENTS.
BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES.
Information respecting the time and manner of budding
fruit trees, - = - - = - - -
On the choice of scions, and mode of preparing the stocks,
_ Cleft Grafting, Side ee and ee Grafting ex-
plained, - - - - : -
Saddle Grafting, Root Grafting, and Grafting = Ap-
proach, defined, - - - -
Directions for Bakiae Forsyth’s composition, - -
Recipes for preparing liquids for washing the stems and
branches of trees, - - - - - -
Instructions for making grafting clay and composition,
ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY
- Rules for judging the qualities of fruit trees, - -
Directions for the management of Stone Fruits, to pre-
vent their gumming at the roots, - - -
A guide to the selection of distinct varieties of fruit, -
AppLe. Its history, cultivation, propagation, &c. -
Seventy-six of the choicest varieties of Apples described,
Apricot. The best method of training, pruning, &c.
explained, - SRS - - ~ - -
Select descriptive list of Apricots, - = re -
Aumonp. Its history, mode of culture, &c. - -
Cuerry. The various kinds enumerated, with direc-
tions for their cultivation, - = = - =
Thirty-one of the most esteemed varieties described, -
Curestnut. Its durability and other peculiar charac-
teristics adverted to, - - - - “ -
Cranserry. Its adaptation for garden culture exem-
plified, - - - - - - - -
Currant. The best mode of cultivation — - -
Select descriptive list of Currants, = 2 = Z
Fie. A fruit well calculated for cultivation in the United
States - - - - : - - -
Page.
31
32
33
34
30
37
39
46
49
50
51
53
56
57
58
60
61
CONTENTS
The operation of Girdling or Ringing Trees explained,
Seventeen of the best varieties of Figs described, -
Gooseperry. Description of fifty-eight of the most
} celebrated varieties, - - - - - -
An improved method of managing the Gooseberry, -
Grape: The pcculiar characteristics of the Grape Vine
defined, - - - - - - - -
The different manures adapted to the vine enumerated,
On the various methods of propagating, grafting, &c. -
Select descriptive list of foreign and native grapes, -
Doctor G. W. Chapman’s and Mr. Wm. Wilson’s suc-
cessful experiments on their vines,
Edward H. Bonsall’s Vineyard Culture explained, = -
- Doctor R. T. Underhill’s account of his vineyard at
Croton Point, - a hee - - - -
Concluding observations on training, pruning, and cul-
tivating the vine, - - - - -
Mcutzerrry. Some of the most useful species described,
with directions for their propagation and cultivation,
Nectarine. Important hints, calculated to give this
scarce but delicious fruit the best possible chance
of success, if strictly attended to, - - 2
Select descriptive list of Nectarines, - —- - -
Orance, Lemon, &c. The several species of this fruit
enumerated, &c. - - - - - -
Peacn. An elaborate review of the means best calcu-
lated to overcome the difficulties attending the cul-
tivation of this important fruit, - anh RS >
Sixty-one of the best varieties of Peaches described, -
Pear. A definition of the different qualities of this
fruit, with directions for its propagation and culti-
vation, - - - - - - - -
Observations on the alleged deterioration of the Pear,
and other fruits, - = = . S - -
Eighty-eight of the most esteemed varieties of the Pear
described, - - - - - ot Se :
105
111
113
115
iV CONTENTS.
P
Pium. The means best adapted for the perfection of a
this fruit explained, - : - - . -
Fifty-three of the finest varieties of Plums described, -
Quince. Its history, its use, and method of culture ex-
plained, - - - - - = SOE
Raspperry. All the most celebrated species and varie-
ties enumerated, - - - S z L
Select descriptive list of Raspberries,- = - - -
Srrawserry. The valuable properties of the Straw-
berry, with directions for its cultivation, - -
A descriptive list of the most esteemed species and
varieties of Strawberries, - - - - -
Watnut. Its use both as a fruit and timber tree, -
CALENDAR AND INDEX.
JanuaRy.—An essay on the importance of improving
the various species of fruit, by propagating none
but the finest specimens for seed, and by amelio-
rating the existing kinds by Cross Fertilization ;
which process is explained in a clear and compre-
_ hensive manner, - - - - . -
Fepruary.—An attempt to prepare the young gardener
for the timely performance of his work in the or-
chard and fruit garden, in a judicious manner, by
directing his attention to such business as can be
done in unfavourable weather, that he may be en-
abled to give prompt attention to other important
business before the rise of the sap, and thus prevent
much anxiety and labour, - - ° - -
Marcu.—Directions for pruning Grape Vines, and Ap-
ple, Cherry, Pear, and Quince Trees; for culti-
vating Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Rasp-
berries, &c.; for preparing the ground for the
reception of all kinds of fruit trees as soon as the
weather becomes favourable ; for supporting newly
124
126
131
132
135
136
138
140
143
147
planted trees by means of stakes, &c. - . - 149
CONTENTS.
Aprit.—Attention is directed to the pruning of fruit
trees, including Apricot, Almond, Fig, Mulberry,
Nectarine, Peach, Plum, &c.; also, to the cultiva-
tion and propagation of trees, shrubs, and vines, by
cuttings, layers, grafting, and other methods, -
May.—The gardener is reminded of the importance ot
finishing the work that was left undone last month
without further delay; and of attending to the de-
struction of insects while in a torpid state, and the
preservation of the Gooseberry and other fruits
from mildew. By cultivating Raspberries and
Strawberries as directed in April and June, such
fruits may be produced at alate season, - -
June.—The business of this month in the fruit garden
consists of summer pruning, clearing the trees and
vines of dead leaves and insects, and of protecting
and cultivating early fruit to promote its ripening
én full perfection, - - - - - -
Juty.—Remedies for the protection of fruit from birds
and ants, and for preserving Grape Vines from
mildew. Judicious summer pruning, and atten-
tion to Figs, Vines, &c., recommended, - is
Aucust .—As insects are engendered in vast quantities
by the heat of our summers, the attention of gar-
deners is directed to the use of bitter and acrid
substances, which being made into a compost, is
calculated to improve the land, as well as to destroy
insects, - - - - - - - -
SepTremBer.—The subject treated of under this month
relates chiefly to the rejection of various fruits, by
many cultivators, and to the propensity of some
persons to neglect old inmates of the garden for
the sake of trying other varieties, merely because
they are new, - - aul) Oped MOS):
Page.
151
153
155
156
158
160
vi CONTENYS.
Ocroser.—It is suggested that attention be paid to the
_ careful gathering of fruit, while in a perfect state;
also to the preservation of Grapes, &c. Directions
for planting the pits of Cherry, Peach, Plum, &ce.,
and the kernels of Apple, Pear, and Quince; also
for preparing the ground for the reception of all
kinds of hardy fruit trees on the decline of the sap,
Novemser.—As winter is fast approaching, it is recom-
mended to protect tender vines, trees, shrubs, and
plants, including Raspberry, Fig, Strawberry
Plants, &c.; and to plant hardy fruit trees while
the land is susceptible of being tilled, - - -
Decemper.—At all favourable opportunities during this
month the gardener is directed to prune hardy fruit
trecs, to scrape off all the moss and canker, and to
wash the stems and branches with a liquid pre-
pared according to a recipe given, - 2 =
An Appress TO THE PEoPLE or THE UNITED STATES
on the subject of an alleged discovery on Terra-
Culture, submitted to the attention of the 25th and
26th Congress, - - - - - - -
A summary view of estimates, furnished with a view to
aid the Seedsman and Gardener in making out a
bill of seed, for the purpose of planting any given
quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested
in the vegetable department of the Young Gar-
deners Assistant, . - - - . :
162
163
164
165
170
OBSERVATIONS
ON THE
FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD.
In the preliminary observations on the subjects already
treated of, 1 am aware that it may appear to some that I
have not sufficiently urged the importance of a judicious
selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &c. My object
in not insisting on a strict attention to these important points
was, because I know that, though good land is abundant in
this extensive country, it is impossible for every one to choose
for himself; and rather than any disadvantages in these
respects should discourage proprietors of land from attempt-
ing to raise garden products, so necessary to the comfort and
convenience of every family, I have endeavoured to show
them how to use to advantage whatever land may surround
their places of abode. As, however, some have a choice,
it may be necessary to offer some farther remarks on the
subject.
The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be
one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and
is exposed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east
and southwest. When the situation is low and close, the
trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures
them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are also
more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an
orchard closely perit up by trees, &c., is injurious, neverthe-
less a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit
trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very
great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe
cold winds. 7
8 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
A good strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture,
to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable
for an orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub-
stratum, as the ground must be well drained; for if the top
soil be ever so good, and the bottom wet, it is very rarely
the case that the trees prosper many years; they soon begin
to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably
necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom should
be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judi-
cious draining.
When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining,
it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In
performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and
when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &c., must be
laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little
coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top
of the stones, &c., and then ‘the surface gently rolled.
Drains may also be made in different directions, so that any
excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the
ground.
It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils
to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced
by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stub-
born, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and
vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appro-
ptiate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed
and ‘well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper
condition for most purposes.
Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit garden, the soil
should be manured and pulverized toa great depth. It
should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots
receive may be wholesome; free, that they may be at full
liberty to range in quest of it; and rich, that there may be
no defect in food.
' Tf orchards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the
ground should be improved as much as possible by manur-
GREHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. %
ing, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its full
extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width
along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time
of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is
sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of
sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well-pulverized
mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted.
In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than
an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and
the earth intended for filling in should be enriched and well
pulverized by mixing in some good old manure; and if any
leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other
refuse of a farm, are attainable, let such be used around the
trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is
admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should
be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an
equal distribution of the finer particles of earth to be con-
nected with the small fibres of the roots; and when com-
pletely levelied, let the ground be well trodden down and
moderately watered, which should be repeated occasionally
after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry.
As some difference of opinion exists among practical men
as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following
extract from Mr. Prince’s Treatise on Horticulture is sub-
mitted :
“Seasons FoR TRANSPLANTING. Spring is the season
when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improve-
ments, and from this circumstance, probably, it has become
the general season for planting trees; but experience has
proved autumn planting to be the most successful, especially
in those parts of the United States which are subject to
droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none
from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in
consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those
fruits that have been originally brought from warmer cli-
10 OBSERVATIONS ON THE
mates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond,
which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary
for us to consult the operations of climate also; and, from
a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have
come to the following conclusions: In localities south of
New-York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple,
Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern
latitude; whereas, the spring is to be preferred for the
Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the
reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer
fiom the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to
assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by
the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least
affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or
may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent
judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only
serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds a
diversity of opinion exists.
‘“ TREES, ETC., ON THEIR ARRIVAL AT THE Puace oF DEs-
TINATION. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where
they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated
ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and
immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to
make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to
leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it
having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees
the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine
fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry
from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ;
their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the
subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des-
tination; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees
are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of
the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, can-
not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no
nourishment until these fibres are replaced.
ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. il
To causE THE TREES To TuriveE. The ground where
they are planted must be kept cultivated; young trees will
not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around
them; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass
grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and
free from grass for three or four feet distant around them,
and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug
in around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the
Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees, and others that it is
particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be
brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ;
this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing
the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect.
Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular
watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper atten-
tion in this respect, many lose a large portion of their trees
during a drought,’’*
Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as may
require any other than good ordinary soil, may be supplied,
* The following letter was received by the Author while he was pre-
paring the copy for the ninth edition of this work :
“In reading your very useful and entertaining work on. Gardening,
Planting Trees, and otherwise, I need not say, to me, it contained much
that was new, original, and very useful ; yet, complete as is your admirable
work, I found not therein one circumstance connected with replanting
trees, of vital importance to be observed, particularly with those trees
which have attained several years’ growth, say trees from fifteen to. twenty
feet high, and from three to five inches diameter. Some seven or eight feet
above the root, that is to say, at the time of digging up the tree, a mark
should be made on the north or south side of the tree; and on replanting
the same, it should be set into the ground as nearly as possible in the same
position to the sun (north or south) as it occupied before taken up, other-
wise the tree will not be so thrifty ; if its sides are changed, it not unfre-
quently appears sickly, and ultimately dies. Over twenty years’ experi-
ence in replanting some thousands of hard and soft Maple, Elm, and
others, enables me to speak positively on this precaution. Whenever the
community calls for another edition of your work, in that part relating to
Replanting Trees, if you deem the above suitable for insertion therein, it
might assist many who have not this knowledge, and oblige,
‘Yours with esteem, Joun Crowsgs, ©. HE.”
12 ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN.
py judicious management ; and if a proper attention be paid
to the situation and aspect in arranging a fruit garden, each
kind may be so accommodated as to promote its fruits’ ripen-
ing earlier or later than the ordinary season, by varying the
aspect; but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not
be planted where the sun’s influence does not fully operate.
Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it
is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different
aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a
southern aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either
an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect ;
by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums,
Gooseberries, Currants, &c., the fruit will ripen in succes-
sion, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early
blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm
aspects; for which arrangements may be made by keeping
awning, matting, netting, &c., at hand, to shelter them with
in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense
heat of the sun after a frosty night; this, with a sprinkling
of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious
consequences from slight frost.
Those who have various soils, should suit them to the dif-
ferent kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong
loam, but the Pear rather the lightest. Apricots, Cherries,
Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter than the
Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require peat, bog, or
any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as
we proceed.
OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,
AND
DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE.
Mucu may be written relative to the various diseases to
which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and
destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, which
very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden.
The preventive operations are those of the best culture.
Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larve of
bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and
the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c., are beneficial.
Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete
destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, turpen-
tine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves,
tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps
the most effectual way of keeping some of the most perni-
cious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as
may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu-
nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter
Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable
situations, they often become diseased; when this happens,
the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees
clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do,
they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation.
Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad
qualities of tne earth and air, by a want of water, or by the
inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them-
selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of
any colour but the natural green; curled and ragged leaves;
14 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,
branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots,
instead of from the stem or trunk; the stem diseased in its
bark, the gum oozing from various parts thereof, are all
proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is sub-
ject to a disease called the yellows; and the discoloured
leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms
which so frequently attack the root; where these are found,
they may be removed by a knife or chisel; but if it should
appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to
prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and
also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to
the fire blight; this malady may be completely checked on
its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning
the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning,
cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or
tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting goed
earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most dis-
eases in fruit trees; removing them from a bad to a better
soil will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a
poorness of land; for the old adage, ‘‘ Remove the cause,
and the effect will cease,” will be here exemplified. To
cure the oozing of the gum, nothing more is necessary than
to cut away the diseased parts of the bark; and by thus
assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or nox-
ious juices, a complete cure may be effected.
When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately
sprinkled with soapsuds, and then be dusted over with sul-
phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig
around the tree, and examine the soil and subsoil; if it be
wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with
good healthy soil, and the ground drained; if, on the con-
trary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful watering; the
same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of
blight, if applied in time. When any canker is observed,
the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean
out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water
AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 15
can lodge in the wound; when this is done, let a quantity
of soot be mixed with water, and a little train oil well worked
among it, but so that the mixture finally remains stiff; this
may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned.
The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the
wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the
soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery
from having a bad subsoil, it is in vain to apply any remedy
till the ground is properly drained, some fresh soil mixed
with the natural soil, and the tree replanted. When trees
are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the
attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at
the time of winter or early spring pruning, in order to de-
stroy the insects in their larve state.
The following compositions have been known to protect
fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being
used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. The
constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture
of ingredients than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter
described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual
in the destruction of the larvee of insects.
For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees. To eight gal-
lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of
common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper.
~ or Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. To four gallons
cf water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com-
mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black
pepper.
For Figs and Vines. To four gallons of water add half
a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and & quarter
of an ounce of black pepper.
All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty
minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to
the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.*
* For the destruction of the Aphis which frequently attacks the Apple,
as well as other fruit trees, while young, an application of diluted whale-
oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious.
{6 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,
The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio;
this insect passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state,
and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will
be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blos-
soms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in
the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage
of their growth; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots
are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off
prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be
gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or
other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in suc-.
ceeding years; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they
will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which
may not be so easily extirpated.
The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the
destruction of which many experiments have been tried.
Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared
over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females
in their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are fre-
quently on the move from November to the end of June,
this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As
this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk
of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the
surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use of
lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most
hkely way to destroy them.
The bark-louse is another pernicious insect; they resem-
ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be
imperceptible; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by
preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be
conquered by washing the trees with soapsuds, tobacco
water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy
water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or
paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with
a brush to tlie trunk and limbs of the trees; this should be
done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the
eracks in the bark should be completely covered.
AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 17
The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath
the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found
in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and
clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out
with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are
removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting
clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to
the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers’ mortar early
in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the
part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks.
Although our limits will not admit of a farther description
of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and
frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear
directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of
saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul-
turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of
large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be
supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote
for many kinds of insects; and our citizens would be at less
risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises for
safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not
considered complete without an ash-vault; and a good farmer
would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an
ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers
with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their
saving them the ashes; and there are some that will keep
men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the
same purpose; and any thing that has passed the fire is so
valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chim-
neys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into
the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward the col-
lectors, besides paying all expenses; even the house-keep-
ers’ ashes. in cities is a marketable article at all times, bring-
ing from ten. to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry
and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common
price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire.
O*
18 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS,
While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a
spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare
turfs from tanners’ bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with
clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer
season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may
be burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blos-
som, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be
kept up by heaping on damp litter every night; this will
prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees,
and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a
means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed
every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should ’
be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterward
on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of
the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may
serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I
know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who
saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after
its having been used as a covering for his Spinach; and I
have no hesitation in recommending it as an excelient reme-
dy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some
coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper
the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will
create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious
combustible be sprinked among them, it will be beneficial.
This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to
the farmer, as well as to the community at large; I, there-
fore, cannot forbear offering some farther observations.
It must be acknowedged that, although this country con-
tains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well as
almost every other description of fuel, yet the poor of our
large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all
the tales of wo could be sounded in the ears of a sympa-
thizing community during our severe winters, I am persuaded
they would arouse them to the consideration of a remedy.
It is an acknowledged fact that the poor of Europe are
AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. : 1S
cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this
country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circum-
stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricultur-
ists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their large
towns and cities, at a price equal, in some instances, to half
the cost of a winter’s fuel.
Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable
to the farmers here as they are in Hurope? ‘The extreme
heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal
if not greater proportions; and as respects manure, it must
be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it
is in the densely peopled countries of Hurope. Perhaps
some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti-
vators to a considerable extent; but I would remind, such,
that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with
other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in
our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be
worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean.
The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value
than any others, and I am persuaded that, could they be
fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good would
result to the community. If the farmers in England can
afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for
the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor
of our community may be placed in easier circumstances as
respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land
are to be found in the States of New-York and New-Jersey,
and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat
earth; and the owners of such have already begun to ex-
plore their treasures of this description. Good peat is now
to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per
bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all
sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal,
and also on the hearth; and if the ashes are not used to any
better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the
cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is
20 OBSERVATIONS, ETC.
worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the
different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to
direct some of our most active citizens to a consideration of
this subject, incalculable good would result to the commu-
nity at large.
If the public*authorities of our cities, and all those who
distribute fuel among the poor, gratis, would give them peat
instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would
answer every purpose to the consumers. ‘Twelve bushels
might be given in the first winter month to each of the ap-
plicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction to save
their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in
exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily
ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels of peat would
make; and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of
exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the appli-
cants was the most entitled to the distributor’s bounty. The
same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for hous-
ing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If
such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a mode-
rate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled
with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future
supply of fuel, and they could all be used for the same pur-
pose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested,
may become a merchantable article as in Europe; and it is
very probable that farmers may be induced to take them in
exchange for future supplies of peat; they could, however,
be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and
would, no doubt, meet with a ready sale.
21
OBSERVATIONS
ON
TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES.
In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particulat
attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency
of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark
and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to
the extremities of the branches; pruning, therefore, is use-
ful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous
wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning
may be performed at different seasons of the year, according
to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head,
as we proceed.
In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy
the germs of future fruits, but merely remove all unservice-
able sprigs. Inthe winter season, make your selection from
the wood shoots of the preceding year; keep those which
appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem
redundant.. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the
buds will then be a guide for them to go by; but this busi-
ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some
kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned
untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c., before
the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily
stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it
with meited wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece
of bladder; or peel off the outside bark to some distance
from the place, and then press into the pores of the wood,
a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the con-
“-gistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as in
(22 uN TRAINING AND PRUNING.
spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive is
timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until
the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn.
With respect to the manner in which vines, and some
particular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at
variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and |
direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and othe1s
again in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low
walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training
may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from
a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on
each side.
It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer
of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable
of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre-
determine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the
end of the season; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to
his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with
respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of
its rapid growth and docility. |
In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud.
Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt
to weaken tle shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre-
vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of ©
injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood.
In cutting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direc-
“tion, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to pre-
vent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being
finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood
be carefully peeled off, observing not to injure the sound
bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, &c,
Let the shoots and branches afterward be regularly laid in,
at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots
that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is
not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the
old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose
- ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 23
strauds uf fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with; and
observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots
and branches next season.
By attending to the proper training of fruit trees, every
advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in
other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but preserved
in every part of the tree, so that it will bear down to the
very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of
the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally con-
ducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees
are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a sup-
ply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neg-
lected, and they become naked, it is sometime before a sup-
ply can be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take
care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middle of
all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is
requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be
ragged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the
knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged.
The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per-
formed by mariy persons at any time from autumn to spring,
_ and it may be so done without any great injury to them,
provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the
wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous
to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well
ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not
arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in:such cases to defer
‘pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is perform-
ed before the moving of the sap. The -necessity of this
arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened
in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will con-
tinue so until the frost, &c., cause it to become stagnant ;
and if the shoots were shortened while the sap was in mo-
tion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree
weakened; such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer
_ by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred
24 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING.
until spring, all such parts as may have beeu affected by the
weather, can be removed to the extent to which the damage
has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood
in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when
it is done during winter, and the more so according to its
severity ; because, whenever a cut is made on such green
wood, the frost generdlly affects it, as the sap is not su
dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intense-
ness.
Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should
be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ;
this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan
or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal
method has many advantages over any other; the small
compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept,
requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make
them fruitful; and were very high trellises formed, so as to
admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such
would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they
would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the
benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated
receive.
As some young gardeners may not know what is meant
by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers
are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a
frame or trellis of wood-work ; they produce large fruit plen-
tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted
in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its
other products. Tor espalier fruit trees in the open ground,
a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed
of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work,
according to taste or fancy.
The implements employed in pruning, and the manner. of
using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is
commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed
up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed
‘ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 20
on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the
branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw
will be occasionally wanted; but an axe or hatchet should
never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and
tear the bark, and disfigure the tree.
—_—_—_—
BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES.
Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations
that equally depend for their success upon the property that —
buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems up-
ward; but in these practices, the roots strike between the
bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and
form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres.
The success of such practices, however, depends upon other
causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings.
It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between
the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres
of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of
the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation.
No one can have studied the economy cf the vegetable
kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong
tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in
contact with each other.
ee
BUDDING, OR INOCULATING.
To bud trees, let the following method be adopted: Pro-
eure a knife which has a thin blade, and’a sharp ivory han-
dle; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the
handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the
buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass
in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from
healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. Wher
26 ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING.
all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely,
and from the middle of this cut make another downward,
at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in
che form of a T; then from one of your sprigs proceed with
expedition to take off a bud; this is effected as follows:
Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the:
bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud,
anid cut the piece off across the shoot; then immediately. let
that part of the wood which was cut off with the bud be
separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife,
by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one
end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off the woody
part with the other, which will readily come from the bark,
if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous con- ©
dition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the
bud remains perfect; if there is no hole in it, let it be im-
mediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising
with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward. -
on each side from the cross cut, and thrusting the bud in be-
tween the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possi -
ble, As soon as the bud is put into its place, bind it securely
with bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding
upward, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss
the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the
bandage of the bass. About a week or ten days after the
stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when
such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that
have not taken will appear decayed; in the former case the ~
bandage may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock
may be budded in another place, provided the first operation -
was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are
the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in
general. Budding is, however, often attended with success,
if done early in September. "
Scatitor Buppine is performed by cutting fiom a small
stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length,
‘OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. ea
and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same
length; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top
and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly
bound with wet bass matting. This may be performed in
the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month
of July. The French practice this mode on Roses.
GRAFTING.
Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting
it into.another, in such a manner that both may unite closely,
and become one tree. These shoots are called scions o1
graits, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing
some descriptions of stocks, the following hints will be
useful : ie
Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or
horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots.
The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken from healthy
trees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the
spring, and buried half of their length in the ground, or in
a cool and dry cellar; there to remain until the season of
grafting. ‘
For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed
down near to the ground. In nurseries, Apples intended
for standards are generally grafted about nine inches high
only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming
their heads upon the second year’s shoots. In cider coun-
tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high; and
when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafte:t
at the height at which it is intended the head of the tree
shall be formed. As respects trees in general, directions
will be found under their appropriate heads.
The business of grafting is generally performed in March
and April: there are various methods of grafting, but the
following are those most generally practised : |
o8 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING.
Crert Grarrinc. This mode of grafting is generally
practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter,
and may be performed in the following manner: Let the
head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from
knots, and the top pared smooth; then with a thin knife
split down the stock through the centre to the depth of about
two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the
reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the
form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part,
and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion
and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks
require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four
are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with
bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared
clay, in an oval form, and close it securely.
Sipe Grarrine. This mode is sometimes practised on
those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are
two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion
may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting,
and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ;
the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, it must
be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being
cut sloping, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree
on the top of a perpendicular slit; the bark of a tree above
the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and
the bark raised as in budding; the scion being then inserted,
it must be bound fast, and covered with clay.
Spiice, on Wuie Grarrine. This mode is often practised
on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and
stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist
of young wood of the former year’s growth, may be cut to
the length of about four inches. This and the stock are
each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued.
Ton gueing consists in cutting a slitin the middle of the slepe
of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion
upward ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides,
OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 29
if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then securely bound
with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay or compo-
sition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united,
the bass string may be removed.
SappLe Grartine. The celebrated Me. Knight practised
this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part
of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two
sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by
' slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each
side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal
size, the adjustment may be made perfect; but if unequal,
one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a
string of bass matting, and covered with composition or
clay; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect
union has taken place.
Root Grarrine. This operation is often performed on
Grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual
mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or
pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce.
GraFtinc By Approacu. The trees, or shrubs, to be
grafted in this mode, must be growin g very near to those which
are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each
tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long
sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre; and the
parts of each tree thus prepared are to be brought together,
and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the
bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then
be covered with clay or composition; and when a complete
union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated
with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction.
It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees ix
the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should
be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned
they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, anc.
te the upright and perfect formation of the tree.
3*
30 FORSYIH’S COMPOSITION.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING
COMPOSITION, GRAFTING CLAY, ETC.,
FOR USE ON FRUIT TREES.
The British Parliament gave Mr. Forsyth a valuable pre-
mium for the following important directions for making a
composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all
kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of Brepesiag
the trees, and laying on the composition:
Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime |
rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is
preferable), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth
part of a bushel of pit or river sand; the three last articles
are to be sifted fine before they are ea: then work them
well together with a spade, and afterward with a wooden
beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used
for ceilings of rooms.
The composition being thus made, care must be taken to
prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away
all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the
fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very
smooth, and rounding off the edges of the bark with a draw-
knife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be -
particularly attended to; then lay on the plaster about an’
eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or:
bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as
possible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood
ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the
ashes of burnt bones; put it into a tin box with holes in the
top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster till
the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an
hour to absorb the moisture ; then apply more powder, rub-
bing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the applica-
tion of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry,
smooth surface. ' |
" WASH FOR THE STEMS OF FRUIT TREES, ETC. 31
If any of the comvosition be left for a future occasion, it
should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poured
on it so as to cover the surface, otherwise the ‘atmosphere
will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application.
When lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got,
take pounded chalk or common lime, after having been
slaked a month at least.
As the growth of the trees will gradually effect the plas-
ter, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be
taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when
occasion may require (which is best done when moistened
by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the
air and wet penetrating into the wound.
As the best way of using the composition is found, by
experience, to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be
reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing
it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soapsuds, and
laid on with a painter’s brush. The powder of wood ashes
and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting
it down with the hand.
_A Wasu For rue Srems or Frurr Trees. Take a peck of
fresh cow-dung, half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of
flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix
the whole together with as much urine and soapsuds in a
boiling state as will form the ingredients into a thick paint.
This composition may be applied to the stems of young
standard trees when planted out in the orchard, to prevent
their being injured by the depredations of reptiles and insects.
A Wasu For Tae Stems anp Brancues or Frurr Trees.
Take half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of
sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the
whole together with as much boiling water as will form the
ingredients into a thick paint. This composition is recom-
mended to be applied to the stems and limbs of Apple trees
which are infested with the White Mealy Insect, having pre-
viousl* removed the moss and loose bark by scraping them
32 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY.
off with a strong knife, or some other instrument adapted to
the purpose.
In using the composition, it will be most efficacious if
applied in a warm state, or something more than blood heat.
On young trees, strong vinegar will effectually destroy
this insect, and I have for many years, in my own nursery,
used it for this purpose; but this would be too expensive to
be applied when the trees are large.
A solution of potash to wash the stems of the trees early in
the spring, before the buds expand, will effectually destroy
them.
To make Grartine Composition. ‘Take equal parts ot
rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow; melt these together
and mix them; then pour the composition into cold water,
and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands
until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on
brown paper, which being cut into strips of suitable size, is
quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the
breath, so as to become adhesive.
Grartine CLay may be made in the following manner:
Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter,
cow manure, and good stiff clay; add to this a portion of
hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons
mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorpo-
rated several days before it is required to be used.
ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE
NURSERY.
In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention
are necessary; for, to have trees that do not answer the
expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment.
As the young gardener may need such directions as are cal-
culated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour tu
CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 33
furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit trees
are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight, and
of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted
or budded, be careful to select such as have been worked
on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked,
stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees that are healthy,
have always a smooth, clean, shining bark; such as are
mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least
affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discover-
able in the young wood, and generally two or three inches
above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectar-
ine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower
part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if
a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and
only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when
there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome
a form.
In some of the following articles, it will be seen that
several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety,
even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or
five years’ growth, after having been headed down, that are
healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up
to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very
well; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and
planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a
portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise,
split, or damage them; for want of attention to these points,
trees often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding
all due caution) any roots have been accidentally broken,
split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them
be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged
or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a por-
tion of the following composition be spread over the wound,
in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise
injure the tree: To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a
little beeswax; let them be boiled together, and when cold
34 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY,
they may be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dress-
ing mangled roots is more particularly required in trees of
the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums,
&c.; for without the application of some remedy, they gum
at the roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materi
ally injures the upper part of the trees, which may become
so affected as never to recover afterward ; therefore, great
care should be taken not to occasion such injury; and when
accidents happen, all due caution and application are neces-
sary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth.
A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly
corresponding to the branches; ag least, it should have one
strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree,
with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy
roots are always smooth and clear; their colour varies a lit-
tle according to the kind of tree, but the older the roots are,
the darker the colour is.
After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to
the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not
chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a consid-
erable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or
otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised
roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but
if it be necessary to prune away any sound, good roots, such
pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In
pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear
cut, and in a sloping direction; the slope should be toward
the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to
lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an
advanced season, in the spring of the year, it will be neces-
sary to prune the tops; and if trees are removed that have
been trained three or four years, and are not properly sup-
plied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly
or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising
this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always prune
so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is
CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY, oa
very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a
lead. This attention is not so particularly required in the
Pear, &c., as such will generally push forth shoots, although
no leading ones are left; but in all kinds, the younger the
wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a
tree that has been under training for one or two years,
should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or
three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the
weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong
one, from which a handsome head may afterward be formed.
For farther directions as respects pruning or planting fruit
trees, &c., the reader is referred to the preceding articles on
these subjects; and as respects any species of fruit in par-
ticular, directions will be found under its distinct head.
In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection
of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such
species and varieties as are in great repute for every good
quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully
perused ‘ Prince’s Pomvlogical Manual,’ ‘ Kenrick’s Ameri-
can Orchardist,’ ‘ Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit
Garden,’ and ‘ Manning’s Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits ;’
beside these important guides, I had the select catalogues
_of different nurserymen before me, and have chosen such
only as have been most generally recommended. In doing
this, | have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of
which, none but those who have duly considered the subject
can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants
are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are
apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hundreds
of names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend
not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits.
In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and
other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to
the same variety; consequently, some fruits appear in the
different catalogues under all the varied names; and the
patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining
36 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY.
which are really distinct varieties, and which are most worthy
of cultivation, are correspondingly great.
To exemplify : Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol-
lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant
as many varieties in his orchard, namely, Brown BeEurre,
Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Buerre Dore, Buerre d’ Anjou,
Buerre d Or, Buerre @ Ambleuse, Buerre d? Amboise, Poire
d’ Amboise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Beurre du
Rot. Wuite Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre
Blane, Bonne-ante, Saint Michael, Carlisle, Citron de Septem-
bre, Kaiserbirne, Poire a court quene, Poire de Limon, Valen-
cia, Pore de Neige, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, White
Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the pur-
chaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he
finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he
has culy two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the
White Doyenne.
In making out the descriptive ne I have generally
adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most cele-
brated nurserymen, as a heading; and have caused the
synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known,
or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus, my lists of
about four hundred varieties of the various species of fruit,
will embrace what has been deemed by some as different
varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand.
In preparing the following articles, the object has been
to furnish information which would entertain, as well as
instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have
gleaned from those inexhaustible treasures to horticulturists,
Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants, and that of Gardening;
but on account of the brevity necessarily observed through-
out this work, it has been found impracticable to give many
entire extracts; suffice it to say, that the historical facts are
generally collected from these sources.
APPLE. 37
APPLE
Pommirer. Pyrus malus.
Tue Apple being so closely connected with our wants and
enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of
yur fruits. The Apple Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of
our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained
from some of the varieties of this excellent fruit being cal-
culated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the
healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our
oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized
to our soil; none can be brought to so high a degree of per
fection with so little trouble; and of no other are there so.
many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated
for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our coun-
try affords.
The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age:
Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that
were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific; but
Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary duration
of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a
strong, tenacious soil. Speechly mentions a tree in an or-
chard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years
old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round
the bole, which in some seasons produced upward of a hun-
dred bushels of apples. ,
The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny’s
time. There are upward of fifteen hundred now cultivated
in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under
name; the catalogue of the Linnean Botanic Garden at
Flushing contains about four hundred; and one of our en-
terprising horticulturists, Mr. William Coxe, of Burlington,
New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thirty-three kinds
cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are
usually divided into dessert, baking, and eider fruits: the
38 ' APPLE.
first, highly flavoured; the second, such as fall, or become —
mellow in baking or boiling; and the third, austere, and
generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples:
are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat
pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles .
er white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are
denominated burknots.
The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts
by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting
on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for
dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All
the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the
orchard, aid should be planted from thirty to forty feet from
each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that
the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the
fruit.
Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the ~
Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards.
An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time after the
trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees from
young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or
twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any
time within that period.
Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties by
being headed down to standard height: most commonly, in
very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or
two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft
manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the
mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs,
or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long,
which spring from the younger branches of two or more
years’ growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and ex-
tending gradually to the side: the same bearing branches
and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful.
Prunine.—As, from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do
not admit of shortening the general bearers, it should only
DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 3)
be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees kave not the
most desirable form when three or four years old, they should
be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches.
In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut,
unless in cases of decay; but all superfluous cross branches
and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi-
cated. Espaliers require a summer and winter pruning.
SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES.
SUMMER FRUIT.
AMERICAN SummeR PEARmAIN, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap-
ple is of medium size and oblong form; its colour bright red on the sunny
side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red; the
flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured, and excellent. It ripens early in
August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Treea good
‘bearer.
Benont. Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; the flesh yel-
low, high flavoured, and excellent; it ripens in July and August. ‘The
tree bears well,’ says Mr. Manning, ‘“‘and should be found in every good
collection.”
Earzry Boven, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me-
dium to large; its colour pale yellow; its form oblong; its skin smooth;
flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August. |
Earty Crorton, or Irish Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle
size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour, much ‘variegated with
red; has a rich saccharine flavour ; is much esteemed for the dessert, and
is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in-August. The tree grows
well, and is not apt to canker.
Earry Harvest, Prince’s Yellow Harvest, Pomme dete, July Pippin.
A very early apple, of medium size ; bright straw colour; flesh white and
tender ; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes
a fine garden espalier; ripening its fruit in July and August.
Earty RED Jungeatine, Red Margaret, Early Striped Juneating,
Strawberry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin
greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red; flesh white,
Juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. * Ripens early in August.
PorTER. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the
Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, of
obleng shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red blush; the flesh fine,
sprightly, and agreeable. Ripensin September and October.
Rep AsTracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ;
the skm is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum; the flesh is
white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August.
40 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES.
Rep QuaRENDON, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much es-
teemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of a uniform deep rich
crimscn., with numerous green dots intermixed; flesh of a brisk, pleasant,
and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple: from August to Oc-
tober; tree very productive.
SummeER Pippin, Pie Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles
the Fall Pippin; it differs in. having a little more red on the sunny side,
and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular
apple in New Jersey.
SUMMER QuEEN. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow
ground ; the flesh is yellow, very high flavoured, and excellent. The tree
is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripens its fruit
in August.
SummER Rose, Harvest Apple. r cooking ; ripe in Seftember.
128 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS.
GREEN Gace, Great Queen Claude, Dauphine, Grosse Reine Claude,
Abricot Vert, Verte Bonne, Gros Damas Vert. A middle sized round
fruit, of a yellowish green colour, and purplish russetty red next the sun;
the flesh is of a greenish hue, melting, with an abundanceof very sweet and
highly perfun.ed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at maturity toward
the end of August.
HorsE Pium, Lurge Sweet Damson. Fruit of medium size, oval,
with a deep sature in the middle; skin dark red, inclining to purple when
ripe ; flesh greenish yellow; juice acid but agreeable. Quantities of
these Plums are sold in the New-York markets in August and September,
for sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from suckers; and Peaches,
Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive well on such stocks.
Hurine’s Supers, Keyser’s Plum. This Plum is of monstrous size,
and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces; it is of roundish form,
and of a greenish yellow colour; the flesh is sweet and excellent. It was
raised from seed by Mr. Keyser, of Pennsylvania, and brought into notice
by Dr. Wm. Hulings, of that State.
ImprRaTRicE, Imperatrice Violette, Biue Imperatrice. Simiana of
some collections. One of the best of late clingstone Plums ; fruit medium
size, oval; skin rich deep purple, covered with bloom; flesh yellowish
. green, a little firm, very sweet, rich and juicy; the fruit hangs long on the
tree, and is at maturity in October and November.
ImpeRraL Diapem, Red Imperial, Red Diaper. A fine fruit, admira-
bly adapted for ‘culinary purposes ; shape oval ; colour pale red, but dark
when mature; flesh yellow, and separates from the stone; juice plentiful
when perfectiy ripe, which is early in September ; it is of good flavour,
and highiy perfumed.
Irartan Damask, Damas d’Italie. This fruit is of medium size, nearly -
round, a little flattened at the base; its colour blue or violet, and covered
with a purple bloom; its flesh is yellow, rich, and juicy, and the tree,
which matures its fruit in August, is very productive.
Kirxer’s Pum. This variety is said to be as hardy and prolific as the
Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good as the Green Gage; fruit
large, roundish; skin covered with a close, firm, azure bloom, through
which appears a few golden specks; flesh greenish yellow, firm, juicy and
rich ; in perfection the early part of September.
La Royvace, Royale. A large and excellent freestone Plum, of a homely
dull red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or azure bloom ; flesh fine,
yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and delicious; a superior
Plum ; at maturity early in September.
LatE PurpLeE Damson, Purple Winter Damson, Blue Damascene, Blue
Damson. ‘This variety is in great esteem for preserves, and generaliy
commands a high price. It is of a dark purple colour, covered with bloom ;
the flesh has rather too much acidity for a table fruit, but this tartness
gives it an agreeable flavour when cooked, and if the fruit remains on the
tree until November, it becomes sweet.
Lawrence Gackt, Lawrence’s Favourite. A large round freestone
Plum, of a yellowish green colour, tinged with red; flesh firm, and of deli-
cious flavour, similar to the Green Gage. The tree is very fertile, and yields
en abundance of fruit in August and September.
Lucompe’s NonsucH. ‘This Plums large, compressed at the summit
DESCRIPTIVE t.1ST OF PLUMS. 129
and lase; its breadth is two inches; its colour at maturity, as well as its
form, resemble the Green Gage, but more streaked with yellow; flesh firm,
rich and juicy ; at maturity in August; tree a good bearer.
Mimm’s, BMimm’s Plum, Diaper Rougue. The fruit is very large, a
little oblong ; colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its flesh,
which separates from the stone, is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very
azreeably flavoured ; ripe in September.
Morocco, Early Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black Morocco, Early
Damask, Early Morocco. This is considered one of the best of early
Plums. The tree is very hardy and productive; fruit middle sized,
roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered with a light blue bloom ;
flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich, and high flavoured; ripe early in August.
NecraRinE Pium, Culedonian, Howell's Large, Prune Peche, Jenkin’s
Imperial. One of the most beautiful Plums known; large, nearly round ;
the skin at maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with azure bloom;
flesh yellowish, coarse grained, astringent ; juice abundant, and of a mild,
pleasant flavour ; at maturity in July and early in August.
New-York Pureie, Brevoort’s Purple Bolmar, Brevoort’s Purple
Wushington. Anexcellent fruit, raised from a seed of Bolmar’s Washing-
ton Plum, that had been impregnated with the polien of the Blue Gage.
‘The fruit is very large; skin brown red, covered with purple bloom; flesh
yellow, of a rich and brisk flavour, and adheres to the stone; ripe towards
the end of August.
Gcroser Gace, Frost Guge.
Wire Busy A.pine, New White Alpine. A medium sized berry, of
evate form and agreeable flavour: the plant has no runners, and ripens ite
fruitin June and July.
140 WALNUT.
All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly esti-
mated in ‘Britain, where they are cultivated in great perfec. *
tion. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two
ounces, which have been grown to the circumference of
eight inches and upward. It may be yratifying to the lovers
of this excellent fruit to be informed that some of the best
kinds are attainable here. The late Jesse Buel, Esq., of
Albany, informed us, in the Albany Argus, of June 23, 1830,
that he had grown the Downton, (a variety of the Chili,
crossed by Mr. Kuight,) two years in succession, 4? inches
in circumference. He said, that “he picked a pailful that
morning of the Methven Scarlet Strawberry, which had an
average circumference of three inches each. Several mea-
sured four inches, and one four and a quarter inches. Sixty-
three, divested of the calyx, weighed a pound, which is a
PI
trile more than four te the ounce.” Several of the choicest
kinds have been lately transplanted from the London Socie-
ty’s Garden into the American Nurseries, and some fine
native seedlings have been lately propagated, which will.
bear comparison with many of the best foreign varieties.
WALNUT
Nover., Juglans.
From the circumstance of our-having an abundance of the
fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees growing
spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture of
the Juglans regia, commonly called English Walnut, or
Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens.
It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England,
and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber
tree. The fruit, in England, is mnch used in a ereen state
for pickling, and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In
France, an oil, which supplies the place of that of Almonds,
WALNUT. 141
is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings
of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into thuir tarts and other
meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left there,
annoy moles, or macerated in warm water, afford a liquor
which will destroy them. ‘The unripe fruit is ased in medi-
cine for the purpose of destroying worms in the human
body. Pliny says, “the more Walnuts one eats, with the
more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach.”
The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its
strength and elasticity, than any other, and therefore com-
monly used in England for gun stocks. It is used in cabi-
net work in most parts of Europe; the young timber is
allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be |
finest variegated for ornament. When propagated for tim-
ber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object, inarching
from the branches of fruit - bearing trees is preferable. Bud-
ding is also practised by some; the buds succeed best when
taken from the base of the annual shoots; ordinary sized
buds from the upper part of such shoots generally fail.
Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may
be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is,
cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main
branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much
fruit until fifteen or twenty years old; it is produced on the
extremities of the preceding year’s shoots. The trees should |
stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be permitted to
branch out in their natural order. They need but little
pruning, merely to regulate any casual disorderly growth,
to reduce over-extended branches, and to prune up the low
stragelers.
Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or
abandoned by any, I annex. a description of the different
kinds : : |
Juglans catharticus, is known under the name of Butter .
nut, Oilnut, and white Walnut; these nuts are used by the
Indians as 2 medicine.
142 WALNUT.
Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size;
its fruit is known to be excellent.
Juglans oliveformis, Pecan, or Illinois nut, is delicious,
The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell bark,
Hickory, and Springfield, and Gloucester nut, are large and
well-tasted. -The shell bark Hickory, shag bark, or scaly
bark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on account of its
bark, which is torn lengthwise in Jong loose strips, as in J.
sulcata. The Juglans tormentosa, the Mucker nut, white
heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of the other
kinds enumerated, are worth preserving; ‘or cultivating
where there is none, for its timber for mechanical purposes ;
and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, is useful for
brooms, &c
143
CALENDAR AND INDEX.
Baa. JANUARY.
THE Clear icicle shines in the sun’s faint beam,
Congealed is the river, the lake, and the stream,
- The trees are all leafless, while sulien winds roar,
And Nature benumbed, seems her fate to deplore.
As the weather at this season of the year is generally
unfavourable to any employment in the Orchard or Fruit
Garden, I cannot occupy a few pages more appropriately
than in directing the reader’s attention to subjects connected
with improvements in the several species and varieties of
Fruits; for it must be admitted that there is no kind of
fruit, however delicious, that may not be deteriorated, or
however worthless, that may not be ameliorated, by particu-
lar modes of management; so that after a given variety
shall have been created, its merits may be either elicited or
destroyed by the cultivator. In this place those practices
only need be considered that tend to improvement.
It is an indubitable fact, that all our fruits, without excep-
tion, have been so much ameliorated by various circum-
stances, that they no longer bear any resemblance in respect
of quality to their original. Who, for instance, would
recognize the wild parent of the Green Gage Plum in the
austere Sloe, or that of the delicious Pippin Apples in the
worthless acid Crab? Or, what resemblance can be traced
between our famous Beurre Pears, whose flesh is so succu-
lent, 1ich and melting, and that hard, stony, astringent fruit,
which even birds and animals refuse to eat? Yet these are
undoubted cases of improvement, resulting from time and
skill patiently and constantly in action. But it would be of
little service to mankind that the quality of any fruit should
le improved, unless we adopt some efficient and certain
lit CALENDAR AND INDEX,
mode of multipzying the individuals when obtained Hence
there are two great objects which the cultivator should aim
at, viz Imelioration and Propagation.
In planting seed for the purpose of procuring improved
varieties, care should be taken not only that the seed be
selected from the finest existing kinds, but also that the
most handsome, the largest, and the most perfectly ripened
specimens should be those that supply the seed. A seedling
plant will always partake more or less of the character of
its parent, the qualities of which are concentrated in the
embryo, when it has arrived at full maturity. As this sub-
ject has been already discussed in the second part of this
work, page 133, I shall direct the reader’s attention to the
operation of Cross Fertilization.
This is effected by the action of the pollen of one. plant
upon the stigma of another. The nature of this action is
highly curious. Pollen consists of extremely minute hollow
balls or bodies; their cavity is filled with fluid, in which
swim particles of a figure varying from spherical to oblong,
and having an apparently spontaneous motion. The stigma
is composed of very lax tissue, the intercellular passages of
which have a greater diameter than the moving particles of
the pollen. When a grain of pollen comes in contact with
the stigma, it bursts, and discharges its contents among the
lax tissue upon which it has fallen. The moving particles
descend through the tissue of the style, until one, or some-
times more, of them finds its way, by routes especially des-
tined by nature for this service, into a little opening in the
integuments of the ovulum or young seed. Once deposited
there, the particle swells, increases gradually in size, sepa-
rates into radicle and cotyledons, and finally becomes the
embryo,—the part which is to give birth, when the seed is
sown, to a new individual. Such being the mode in which
the pollen influences the stigma, and subsequently the seed,
a practical consequence of great importance necessarily fol-
lows, viz., that in all cases of cross fertilization, the new
%
CALENDAR AND INDEX. 145
variety will take chiefly after its polliniferous or male
parent; and that at the same time it will acquire some of
the constitutional peculiarities of its mother. Thus the male
parent of the Downton Strawberry was the Old Black, the
female a kind of Scarlet. In Coe’s Golden Drop Plum, the
father was the Yellow Magnum Bonum, the mother the
Green Gage; and in the Elton Cherry, the White Heart
was the male parent, and the Graffion the female.
The limits within which experiments of this kind must be
confined are, however, narrow. It seems that cross fertili-
zation will not take place at all, or very rarely, between dif-
ferent species, unless these species are nearly related to each
other: and that the offspring of two distinct species is
itself sterile, or if it possesses the power of multiplying itself
by seed, its progeny returns back to the state of one or other
of its parents. Hence it seldom or never has happened that
domesticated fruits have had such an origin. We have no
varieties raised between the Apple and the Pear, or the
Plum and Cherry, or the Gooseberry and the Currant. On
the other hand, new varieties obtained by the intermixture
of two pre-existing varieties are not less prolific, but, on the
contrary, often more so than either of their parents: wit-
ness the numerous sorts of Flemish Pears which have been
raised by cross fertilization from bad bearers, within the last
thirty years, and which are the most prolific trees with
which gardeners are acquainted; witness also Mr. Knight’s
Cherries, raised between the May Duke and the Graffion,
and the Coe’s Plum already mentioned. It is therefore to
the intermixture of the most valuable existing varieties of
fruit that gardeners should trust for the amelioration of their
stock. By this operation the Pears that are in eating in the
spring have been rendered as delicious and as fertile as °
those of the autumn; and there is no apparent reason why
those very early, but worthless sorts, such as the Muscat
Robert, which, usher in the season of Pears, should | not be
brought to a similar state of perfection.
146 CALENDAR AND INDER.
Lindley recommends the operation of cross fertilization
to be performed early in the morning of a dry day; about
sun-rise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is
entirely expanded ; the pollen being at that time humid, is
closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be care-
fully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors,
care being taken not to wound the filaments or any other
part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen
from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom
which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers
have been extracted; and this operation must be repeated
twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking
the blossoms over a sheet of white paper, the time when it
is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to
protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects
with thin book-muslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived —
in the germ. When the process has been successful, the
pollen which has been placed on the stigma becomes so
attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil; it
changes form and colour, and soon disappears, and the blos-
som will soon wither and fade; but when the: process has
been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stig-
ma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with
the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time.
For further information on these subjects, see Outlines of
the First Principles of Horticulture, pages 120 to 140 of the
second part of this work.
CLAENDAR AND INDEX. 147
FESRUARY.
Without ’tis a desert, too bleak for a ram,
Within we have one—merely Apples and Jam,
Preserved for the season, with skill and with care,
By the hands of the thrifty, the good, and the fair !
As the season for pruning fruit trees and vines com-
mences in the various parts of our country at different
periods, according to the climate, I would submit a few
general remarks on the subject, with a view to prepare the
gardener for the performance of the work in a skilful man-
ner, and at the proper season; for be it remembered that
untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead
of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the
operation.
Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the
various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to
peruse every article before he enters upon the work of the
garden ; he will there discover that no single rule will apply
to every kind of fruit; first, because the mode of bearing is
different in almost every distinct species; secondly, because
the sap rises earlier and continues longer in the branches of
some species than in others; and thirdly, because some
trees, as the Plum for instance, is apt to gum, if pruned too
soon in the season, and the grape vine to bleed if delayed
too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be
given, the gardener should examine all his fruit trees fre-
quently in this month, with his implements at hand, and if
circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may
cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker,
also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while
in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the
trees, in casting off the crude and undigested juices, which
if confined in them will in a short time destroy them, or
s¢me of their branches. , |
As soon as the severity of the winter is over, the ee
“148 CALENDAR AND INDEX.
and half hardy grape-vines should be judiciously pruned, by
cutting out old branches which produced fruit the preceding
year, as well as all superfluous and weak young shoots,
leaving the strong summer shoots for bearers the coming
season, which should be judiciously trained as recommended
in articles, pages 21 and 72. )
In pruning all descriptions of trees, some general rules
may be observed. In cutting out defective branches,
prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such
shoots as have been injured by the winter, to the full extent,
or even a few inches beyond, nh damage has been sus-
tained.
In pruning healthy young trees the limbs should not be
too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral
shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree; which, if
not rubbed off in the summer, while quite young, and as it
were herbaceous, they will form crowded branches, which
may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, how-
ever, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direc-
tion, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome
head to the tree, according to its kind.
It may be observed, farther, that in the event af young
trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous
roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be neces-
sary to maintain a proper equilibrium between the roots and
the head, but it should be borne in mind, that foliage is as
essential to the maintenance of the roots, as roots are neces-
sary to the promotion of the growth of the head; because
the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that
secretions cannot take place if leaf buds are destroyed.
As vegetation makes rapid progress in our climate after
the frost is out of the ground, the gardener should employ
himself in unfavourable weather, in providing implements
and materials for the performance of the work of the gar-—
den every fine day, in order that his pruning and planting
may be done before the too rapid advance of the sap.
CALENDAR AND. INDEY. 149
By such management, he will not only promote the wel-
fare of his fruit garden, but will save himself much anxiety
and labour as the season progresses. For some appropriate
hints, relative to the employment of this month, see the
Calendar for January and February, in the first part of this
work, pages 148 and 149, also page 53 of the second part,
and pages 21 and 34 of the third part.
Toward the latter end of this month, it will be time to
prune and train grape vines in many situations. Provide
shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an inch wide, or
list from broad cloth, which is still better ; also small sharp-
pointed nails to use in training vines and such fruit-trees as
require training.
If any removals are contemplated, or if fresh trees or
vines are required, arrangements should be made to have
them planted as soon as the ground can be brought into good
condition. See pages from 9 to 11, also pages 93, 101 to 104.
If the kernels of the Apple, Pear, and Quince, and the pits
_of the Apricot, Cherry, Peach, and Plum were not planted
last autumn, as directed, let it be done as soon as the earth
can be brought into tillable condition, because exposure to
frost is essential to their vegetating.
MARCH.
The Gard’ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune,
Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune ;
The insects destroying, on branches or root,
That injure the blossom, or live in the fruit.
Ir the weather be mild this month, considerable work
may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the
ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing,
digging, or planting.
Prune grape vines early in this month, if not done last
month, but withhold the knife until you have surveyed the
150 CALENDAR AND INDEX,
plant, and selected a full supply of the last summer shoots
at regular distances from each other, for bearers the coming
summer ; cut out the superabundant, with most of the last
year’s bearers, and naked wood. Prune so that a young
shoot will terminate each branch, and shorten the reserved
shoots; the smallest to three or four joints, and the strong
ones to ten or twelve. Fasten the vines to trellises as soon
as pruned, with list, or shreds of woollen cloth, arranging the
general branches from ten to twelve inches’ distance, more
or less, according to the size of the vines and space allotted
for them to growin. Preserve all strong shoots to make
cuttings with, to be planted next month, which will produce
vines fit toset out next year. See Observations on Training
and Pruning, page 21; also, article Grape Vine, 72 to 88.
Prune Apple trees, 38; Cherry, 52; Pear, 112; Quince,
132; also, Currant bushes, 59; Gooseberry, 71; cutting out
all crowded branches, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood.
If not done in the autumn, plantations may be made this
month of all the above species. ;
Cut out and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs,
reserving three or four of the strongest young shoots on each
stool; shorten them at the top, and take away all others,
the strongest of which may be transplanted to form a new
bed. Lay the trailing varieties for propagation, 134.
In transplanting trees, care should be taken that the col-
lar, or that part from which emanate. the main roots, be not
inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and,
consequently, impedes the natural circulation of the juices.
A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than
it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed
two or three inches, 9, 93, 101 and 125.
Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants,
also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise
stocks to bud and graft upon; fruit stones and kernels may
also be planted for the same purpose.
Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at publir
CALENDAR AND INDEX, d 151
nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general
planting; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate
bearers; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted.
For full information on this subject, the reader is referred to
the article, ‘On the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,’
page 32.
Toward the end of the month is a good time to prepare
for the cultivation of Cranberries ; they thrive best in a wet
soil, but will grow on almost any land, by giving it a top-
dressing of peat, bog, or swamp earth. Assoon as such ground
can be brought into tillable condition, get plants that were
produced from layers of the last season, and set them out in
rows about two feet apart; they will soon cover the ground
by their runners, which, on being layed, will produce an
abundance of plants well adapted for additional plantations
in succeeding years. See page 57.
Provide Cedar or Chestnut stakes for the purpose of
driving into the ground, to protect newly planted trees from
injury by the wind.
APRIL.
_ No advocate he for a long morning nap,
Waking early, he plants ere the rise of the sap ;
Whilst glee and good humour enliven his face,
More happy, by far, than his Lordship or Grace.
Finisu pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of thig
month; also Apricot, 47; Almond, 51; Fig, 63; Mulberry,
90; Nectarine, 94; Peach, 104; Plum, 125; not forgetting
such trees, vines, and shrubs as may have been left undone
last month. At the same time manure and dig the ground
around every fruit tree that requires it.
Prepare the ground for planting, by diggir g, trenching,
und manuring, either generally, or in such particular places
as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, page 9.
142 CALENDAR AND INDEX,
This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot,
Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and all
such fruit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm cli-
mates. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince and other
hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety early in
this month; but autumn is considered the most favourable
season for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of northern
latitude, 10, 93, 101 and 125.
Those who have a variety of soil should accommodate all
the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to
be the best adapted to its culture; and due attention should
be paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden o
orchard, 12.
Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to
prevent their spreading, and also the larve of insects; direc-
tions for which will be found in the article headed, ‘ Obser-
vations on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are
liable,’ 13.
Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general, 27;
prune and plant Currant bushes, 59; Filbert, 65; Goose-
berry, 70; Raspberry, 134. Plant cuttings and suckers
from these shrubs; also of such trees as produce them, in
order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft upon, as
well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and kernels of
various kinds may be planted for the same purpose. |
This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines,
and the vine may also be propagated by layers, that is, by
bending a young shoot down into the earth a few inches,
and pinning it down with a forked stick. The top may be
tied to a small stake, to keep it perpendicular; 76 and 81.
The tender vines that were laid down in autumn, should be
taken up, an fastened to trellises or stakes.
Uncover ard raise up the Antwerp and other tender
varieties of the Raspberry, and prune them, before the buds
shoot, at the same time cultivate the ground around them,
and drive in stakes for their support. In orde: to obtain a
CALENDAR AND INDEX. 153
good supply of Raspberries in the autumn, cut down some
of the twice bearing varieties close to the ground, which will
occasion strong suckers to shoot up, that will yield an abun-
dant crop of fruit at a season when other varieties are not
attainable, 134.
Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter
through the winter, should be uncovered, and the plants
carefully cultivated ; some lay straw over their beds, an inch
or two thick, and set fire to it, 137.
As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects.
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit
trees, and sow the ashes over the ground, 18 and 91.
MAY.
The Gooseberry green the first fruit of the year,
In pudding or pie, affords exquisite cheer,
But e’en should the season their pleasure forefend,
In such adilemma, green Rhwhbarbd’s a friend.
Finisu planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this
month as possible ; those planted last month should be kept
watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to
such as may be exposed to the wind, 93, 101 and 125.
Finish grafting early in this month. Apples, Pears, and
other late-shooting kinds may still succeed, 27.
Strawberry beds may he made early in this month, and if
the transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently
watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen-
tiful supply the next season. Hovey’s American Seedling
is worthy a place in every good collection for its productive-
ness, and the superiority of its fiuit. The Methven Scarlet,
and Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully.
Kean’s Seedling, and also the Downton, are of superior fla
vour. The Elton Seedling, Southborough Seedling, Myatt’s
154 CALENDAR AND INDEX.
Seedling, and Bishop’s Orange, are in great repute where
cultivated. The old Scarlet, being one of the earliest,
should not be forgotten. The Wood and the Alpine Straw
berry will produce fine fruit from seed sown in the spring.
For names of other varieties, mode of planting, &c., see
article, page 136.
If frost prevail when fruit trees are in blossom, those
trained on trellises, or against walls and fences, may be pro-
tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them;
some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens be.
tween the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &c. The object
in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to
break off the sun’s rays in the morning after a frosty night,
because the sudden transition from cold to heat does more
injury than the cold itself.
Propagate Tig trees by = cuttings, — and by
grafting, 62.
If any webs or larvee of insects appear on the leaves of
fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves before
the insects become quickened, which may be a means of
preventing any depredation to the advancing leaves and
buds. The trees of Plum and other stone fruit are very apt
to gum and canker at this season of the year: in such cases
the defective parts shou'd be pruned closely off, and whale
oil soap applied to the wound. A little soot also should
be rubbed on while wet. In large fruit gardens and or-
chards, means should be used to destroy insects by fumiga-
tion, washing, &c. For various remedies, see Observations
on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are liable,
page 13; see, also, article page 30.
Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from
the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear; also rub
off all useless buds in early-shoocting wall trees, as Nectarine,
Apricots, &c., 48.
To protect Gooseberries and other fruits from mildews
sprinkle the leaves with soap-suds ; and while they are wet,
CALENDAR AND INDEX, 155
sow sulphur lightly over them. This may be done two or
three times a week if necessary, as it is better to use a little of
the ingredients frequently, than too much at once. A solution
made of saltpetre and stone lime is also a good remedy ; but
it must be used with caution. See pages 14 and 71.
JUNE.
he
The Cherry, the Currant, and Strawberry red,
To the rich and the poor their refreshment have shed ;
Pomona has scatter’d her blessings abroad,
The full-bearing branches bend down with their load.
Tue principal business of this month in the fruit.garden
is summer pruning, which is generally performed with the
finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and
buds; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine,
and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in
clusters. The Apricots, so thinned off, and the first princi-
pal green fruit, will make excellent pies and tarts. See
pages 48 and 92.
Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from
birds, with nets, particularly those trained as espaliers, 52.
Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varieties,
trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with
shoots of the year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry
fruit thinned, to promote its growth and ripening in full per
fection, 59 and 71.
All trees on espaliers require attention; cut off such
superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained in,
leaving well-situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place
of any old branches that it may be thought necessary to