= \ u . 2 , i a ~3 pe er -. < ie ; { : Deed f ‘ ~ ~ atin elena a ahi mang : —— i ~ esc ar s: le Ab: e) D4 4 24 _ UNITED STATES OF AMD RICA, : $2 35 ry e 74 20 % SUS S54 Ty wh Ae ere: "ee tate ete me 3 are bs ae sre THE FRUIT CULTIVATOR’S MANUAL, CONTAINING AMPLE DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FRUITS INCLUDING THE CRANBERRY, THE FIG, AND GRAPE, WITH DESCRI@TIVE LISTS OF THE MOST ADMIRED VARIETIES. AND A CALENDAR, ' SHOWING THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE IN THE ORCHARD ANT FRUIT GARDEN EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR. THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATH OF THE UNITED STATZS. By THOMAS BRIDGEMAN, Gardener, Seedsman, and Florist. NEW. YORK: C.M SAXTON AND COMPANY, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, No. 140 FULTON STREET, 1857. a {Entered acvording to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Forty-seven by Tuomas Brrpceman, in the Clerk’s Office of the Dis trict Court of the nited States, for the Southern District of New-Yors.] T Ow Qa ea 2 IS Fs “PREFACE. Tuts treatise forms the third part of “‘ The Young Gar- dener’s Assistant,” which, when first issued, in 1829, con- tained only 96 pages. Since that period, so constant has been the demand for the work, that numerous editions have been published; and being made to embrace the three most important branches of gardening, the entire work has extended to upward of five hundred pages. As each branch forms a distinct subject, the author has been induced to pub- lish the ninth edition in three separate volumes, each of which is complete in itself. The first contains ample direc- tions for the cultivation of culinary vegetables and herbs; the second is designed for the cultivator of flowers; and the present volume is intended to qualify the reader for the superintendence of his own orchard and fruit garden. Those who wish to obtain a book embracing the three subjects, can be accommodated with the tenth edition of the Young Gardener’s Assistant, in octavo form, and which is destined to remain for some time to come, the American standard work on Horticulture in general. It is presumed that the pomologist will find in this little volume more information on the subject than he could rea- sonably expect in so small a compass. All the most esteemed species of fruit are treated of under distinct heads, to which is added a descriptive list of the finest varieties under culti- vation ; and from the several descriptive lists of fruits having been selected from the catalogues of the most eminent nur- serymen in our country, it is presumed that they are well calculated to suit the generality of cultivators. The varieties of the different species of fruit under culti vation are by far too numerous to encourage any attempt to publish a complete description of all. Even to enumerate them would be a difficult task, owing to the great uncer- tainty of their true names, and the multiplicity of names ii _ ‘PREFACE. under which they are known in different places. Those cultivators who are more anxious to raise large quantities of trees for sale, than to test their characteristics, are often led into error by cherishing the belief that the names of all the varieties they propagate are indisputably correct ; and hence itis that so many of our fruits are frequently sold under wrong names. Persons who purchase trees under such cir- cumstances, on discovering a mistake, are apt to compare the fruit with others of a similar character, and very fre- quently adopt synonymous names, which increases the evil to such an extent, that, unless a nurseryman tests all the various kinds by specimen trees kept for the purpose in his own orchard, he cannot always be certain what variety he is selling. I do not, however, by these remarks intend to reflect on any of our respectable nurserymen, because the vast improvement making every year in their catalogues is a convincing proof that they are aiming at perfection in their collections. In the following pages I have endeavoured to do justice to each article, by embodying all the essential points of cultiva- tion, and as our native vines are destined to become very generally cultivated in the United States, I have occupied over sixteen pages in treating of vine culture, and can truly say that I have thoroughly weighed every point before put- ting my pen to paper, and have not in any case adopted mere speculative theory, as is too often done by compilers of gardening books. As Iam not disposed to tire the reader with a lengthy preface, I shall conclude by reminding him that the Calen dar and Index is intended as a key to the body of the work ; thus, the most important business of each month is briefly shown, with figures of reference to that particular page which treats more fully on the subject. The advantages of this plan must be evident to the most superficial observer. T. BRIDGEMAN. CONTENTS. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. Page. Suggestions on the choice of a situation for an orchard, 7 Of the best methods of preparing the various kinds of soil, 8 Directions for transplanting fruit trees, - = 4°59 A communication from a friend, showing his plan of replanting trees, - - - - = 2 einen Hints on the arrangement of trees, with a view to ob- tain successional crops of fruit.—Different soils described, suited to the various kinds of fruit, - 12 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Remedies for the prevention and destruction of insects, 13 The best methods of curing diseases in fruit trees, - 14 Composition to be used as a wash for fruit trees, at the time of pruning, - - - - - - 15 Some of the most annoying insects and reptiles described, 16 An earnest appeal to all agriculturists and horticultu- rists, showing the importance of encouraging the inhabitants of cities to preserve their ashes and soot in a dry state, for use on the land, - - 17 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. The primary object of pruning explained, - - - 21 Several methods described of pruning and training the vine, &c. - - - - - - - ° = 22 The benefits arising from judicious pruning, - - 23 Necessary Implements for pruning, &. <- - - 24 FI CONTENTS. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Information respecting the time and manner of budding fruit trees, - = - - = - - - On the choice of scions, and mode of preparing the stocks, _ Cleft Grafting, Side ee and ee Grafting ex- plained, - - - - : - Saddle Grafting, Root Grafting, and Grafting = Ap- proach, defined, - - - - Directions for Bakiae Forsyth’s composition, - - Recipes for preparing liquids for washing the stems and branches of trees, - - - - - - Instructions for making grafting clay and composition, ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY - Rules for judging the qualities of fruit trees, - - Directions for the management of Stone Fruits, to pre- vent their gumming at the roots, - - - A guide to the selection of distinct varieties of fruit, - AppLe. Its history, cultivation, propagation, &c. - Seventy-six of the choicest varieties of Apples described, Apricot. The best method of training, pruning, &c. explained, - SRS - - ~ - - Select descriptive list of Apricots, - = re - Aumonp. Its history, mode of culture, &c. - - Cuerry. The various kinds enumerated, with direc- tions for their cultivation, - = = - = Thirty-one of the most esteemed varieties described, - Curestnut. Its durability and other peculiar charac- teristics adverted to, - - - - “ - Cranserry. Its adaptation for garden culture exem- plified, - - - - - - - - Currant. The best mode of cultivation — - - Select descriptive list of Currants, = 2 = Z Fie. A fruit well calculated for cultivation in the United States - - - - : - - - Page. 31 32 33 34 30 37 39 46 49 50 51 53 56 57 58 60 61 CONTENTS The operation of Girdling or Ringing Trees explained, Seventeen of the best varieties of Figs described, - Gooseperry. Description of fifty-eight of the most } celebrated varieties, - - - - - - An improved method of managing the Gooseberry, - Grape: The pcculiar characteristics of the Grape Vine defined, - - - - - - - - The different manures adapted to the vine enumerated, On the various methods of propagating, grafting, &c. - Select descriptive list of foreign and native grapes, - Doctor G. W. Chapman’s and Mr. Wm. Wilson’s suc- cessful experiments on their vines, Edward H. Bonsall’s Vineyard Culture explained, = - - Doctor R. T. Underhill’s account of his vineyard at Croton Point, - a hee - - - - Concluding observations on training, pruning, and cul- tivating the vine, - - - - - Mcutzerrry. Some of the most useful species described, with directions for their propagation and cultivation, Nectarine. Important hints, calculated to give this scarce but delicious fruit the best possible chance of success, if strictly attended to, - - 2 Select descriptive list of Nectarines, - —- - - Orance, Lemon, &c. The several species of this fruit enumerated, &c. - - - - - - Peacn. An elaborate review of the means best calcu- lated to overcome the difficulties attending the cul- tivation of this important fruit, - anh RS > Sixty-one of the best varieties of Peaches described, - Pear. A definition of the different qualities of this fruit, with directions for its propagation and culti- vation, - - - - - - - - Observations on the alleged deterioration of the Pear, and other fruits, - = = . S - - Eighty-eight of the most esteemed varieties of the Pear described, - - - - - ot Se : 105 111 113 115 iV CONTENTS. P Pium. The means best adapted for the perfection of a this fruit explained, - : - - . - Fifty-three of the finest varieties of Plums described, - Quince. Its history, its use, and method of culture ex- plained, - - - - - = SOE Raspperry. All the most celebrated species and varie- ties enumerated, - - - S z L Select descriptive list of Raspberries,- = - - - Srrawserry. The valuable properties of the Straw- berry, with directions for its cultivation, - - A descriptive list of the most esteemed species and varieties of Strawberries, - - - - - Watnut. Its use both as a fruit and timber tree, - CALENDAR AND INDEX. JanuaRy.—An essay on the importance of improving the various species of fruit, by propagating none but the finest specimens for seed, and by amelio- rating the existing kinds by Cross Fertilization ; which process is explained in a clear and compre- _ hensive manner, - - - - . - Fepruary.—An attempt to prepare the young gardener for the timely performance of his work in the or- chard and fruit garden, in a judicious manner, by directing his attention to such business as can be done in unfavourable weather, that he may be en- abled to give prompt attention to other important business before the rise of the sap, and thus prevent much anxiety and labour, - - ° - - Marcu.—Directions for pruning Grape Vines, and Ap- ple, Cherry, Pear, and Quince Trees; for culti- vating Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Rasp- berries, &c.; for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of fruit trees as soon as the weather becomes favourable ; for supporting newly 124 126 131 132 135 136 138 140 143 147 planted trees by means of stakes, &c. - . - 149 CONTENTS. Aprit.—Attention is directed to the pruning of fruit trees, including Apricot, Almond, Fig, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, Plum, &c.; also, to the cultiva- tion and propagation of trees, shrubs, and vines, by cuttings, layers, grafting, and other methods, - May.—The gardener is reminded of the importance ot finishing the work that was left undone last month without further delay; and of attending to the de- struction of insects while in a torpid state, and the preservation of the Gooseberry and other fruits from mildew. By cultivating Raspberries and Strawberries as directed in April and June, such fruits may be produced at alate season, - - June.—The business of this month in the fruit garden consists of summer pruning, clearing the trees and vines of dead leaves and insects, and of protecting and cultivating early fruit to promote its ripening én full perfection, - - - - - - Juty.—Remedies for the protection of fruit from birds and ants, and for preserving Grape Vines from mildew. Judicious summer pruning, and atten- tion to Figs, Vines, &c., recommended, - is Aucust .—As insects are engendered in vast quantities by the heat of our summers, the attention of gar- deners is directed to the use of bitter and acrid substances, which being made into a compost, is calculated to improve the land, as well as to destroy insects, - - - - - - - - SepTremBer.—The subject treated of under this month relates chiefly to the rejection of various fruits, by many cultivators, and to the propensity of some persons to neglect old inmates of the garden for the sake of trying other varieties, merely because they are new, - - aul) Oped MOS): Page. 151 153 155 156 158 160 vi CONTENYS. Ocroser.—It is suggested that attention be paid to the _ careful gathering of fruit, while in a perfect state; also to the preservation of Grapes, &c. Directions for planting the pits of Cherry, Peach, Plum, &ce., and the kernels of Apple, Pear, and Quince; also for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of hardy fruit trees on the decline of the sap, Novemser.—As winter is fast approaching, it is recom- mended to protect tender vines, trees, shrubs, and plants, including Raspberry, Fig, Strawberry Plants, &c.; and to plant hardy fruit trees while the land is susceptible of being tilled, - - - Decemper.—At all favourable opportunities during this month the gardener is directed to prune hardy fruit trecs, to scrape off all the moss and canker, and to wash the stems and branches with a liquid pre- pared according to a recipe given, - 2 = An Appress TO THE PEoPLE or THE UNITED STATES on the subject of an alleged discovery on Terra- Culture, submitted to the attention of the 25th and 26th Congress, - - - - - - - A summary view of estimates, furnished with a view to aid the Seedsman and Gardener in making out a bill of seed, for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the vegetable department of the Young Gar- deners Assistant, . - - - . : 162 163 164 165 170 OBSERVATIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. In the preliminary observations on the subjects already treated of, 1 am aware that it may appear to some that I have not sufficiently urged the importance of a judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &c. My object in not insisting on a strict attention to these important points was, because I know that, though good land is abundant in this extensive country, it is impossible for every one to choose for himself; and rather than any disadvantages in these respects should discourage proprietors of land from attempt- ing to raise garden products, so necessary to the comfort and convenience of every family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use to advantage whatever land may surround their places of abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may be necessary to offer some farther remarks on the subject. The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and is exposed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east and southwest. When the situation is low and close, the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an orchard closely perit up by trees, &c., is injurious, neverthe- less a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe cold winds. 7 8 OBSERVATIONS ON THE A good strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub- stratum, as the ground must be well drained; for if the top soil be ever so good, and the bottom wet, it is very rarely the case that the trees prosper many years; they soon begin to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom should be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judi- cious draining. When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining, it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &c., must be laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, &c., and then ‘the surface gently rolled. Drains may also be made in different directions, so that any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the ground. It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stub- born, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appro- ptiate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and ‘well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes. Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit garden, the soil should be manured and pulverized toa great depth. It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots receive may be wholesome; free, that they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it; and rich, that there may be no defect in food. ' Tf orchards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the ground should be improved as much as possible by manur- GREHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. % ing, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well-pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and the earth intended for filling in should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in some good old manure; and if any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a farm, are attainable, let such be used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer particles of earth to be con- nected with the small fibres of the roots; and when com- pletely levelied, let the ground be well trodden down and moderately watered, which should be repeated occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. As some difference of opinion exists among practical men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following extract from Mr. Prince’s Treatise on Horticulture is sub- mitted : “Seasons FoR TRANSPLANTING. Spring is the season when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improve- ments, and from this circumstance, probably, it has become the general season for planting trees; but experience has proved autumn planting to be the most successful, especially in those parts of the United States which are subject to droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have been originally brought from warmer cli- 10 OBSERVATIONS ON THE mates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also; and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have come to the following conclusions: In localities south of New-York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern latitude; whereas, the spring is to be preferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer fiom the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds a diversity of opinion exists. ‘“ TREES, ETC., ON THEIR ARRIVAL AT THE Puace oF DEs- TINATION. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des- tination; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, can- not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no nourishment until these fibres are replaced. ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. il To causE THE TREES To TuriveE. The ground where they are planted must be kept cultivated; young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around them; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three or four feet distant around them, and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug in around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees, and others that it is particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ; this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect. Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper atten- tion in this respect, many lose a large portion of their trees during a drought,’’* Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as may require any other than good ordinary soil, may be supplied, * The following letter was received by the Author while he was pre- paring the copy for the ninth edition of this work : “In reading your very useful and entertaining work on. Gardening, Planting Trees, and otherwise, I need not say, to me, it contained much that was new, original, and very useful ; yet, complete as is your admirable work, I found not therein one circumstance connected with replanting trees, of vital importance to be observed, particularly with those trees which have attained several years’ growth, say trees from fifteen to. twenty feet high, and from three to five inches diameter. Some seven or eight feet above the root, that is to say, at the time of digging up the tree, a mark should be made on the north or south side of the tree; and on replanting the same, it should be set into the ground as nearly as possible in the same position to the sun (north or south) as it occupied before taken up, other- wise the tree will not be so thrifty ; if its sides are changed, it not unfre- quently appears sickly, and ultimately dies. Over twenty years’ experi- ence in replanting some thousands of hard and soft Maple, Elm, and others, enables me to speak positively on this precaution. Whenever the community calls for another edition of your work, in that part relating to Replanting Trees, if you deem the above suitable for insertion therein, it might assist many who have not this knowledge, and oblige, ‘Yours with esteem, Joun Crowsgs, ©. HE.” 12 ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. py judicious management ; and if a proper attention be paid to the situation and aspect in arranging a fruit garden, each kind may be so accommodated as to promote its fruits’ ripen- ing earlier or later than the ordinary season, by varying the aspect; but Grape Vines, or other tender fruits, should not be planted where the sun’s influence does not fully operate. Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a southern aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect ; by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Gooseberries, Currants, &c., the fruit will ripen in succes- sion, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm aspects; for which arrangements may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, &c., at hand, to shelter them with in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of the sun after a frosty night; this, with a sprinkling of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious consequences from slight frost. Those who have various soils, should suit them to the dif- ferent kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears require a strong loam, but the Pear rather the lightest. Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter than the Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require peat, bog, or any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as we proceed. OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Mucu may be written relative to the various diseases to which fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive operations are those of the best culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larve of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c., are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, turpen- tine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most perni- cious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu- nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable situations, they often become diseased; when this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad qualities of tne earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them- selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of any colour but the natural green; curled and ragged leaves; 14 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots, instead of from the stem or trunk; the stem diseased in its bark, the gum oozing from various parts thereof, are all proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is sub- ject to a disease called the yellows; and the discoloured leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms which so frequently attack the root; where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel; but if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to the fire blight; this malady may be completely checked on its first appearance, by cutting off and immediately burning the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pruning, cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting goed earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most dis- eases in fruit trees; removing them from a bad to a better soil will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a poorness of land; for the old adage, ‘‘ Remove the cause, and the effect will cease,” will be here exemplified. To cure the oozing of the gum, nothing more is necessary than to cut away the diseased parts of the bark; and by thus assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or nox- ious juices, a complete cure may be effected. When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled with soapsuds, and then be dusted over with sul- phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig around the tree, and examine the soil and subsoil; if it be wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with good healthy soil, and the ground drained; if, on the con- trary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful watering; the same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of blight, if applied in time. When any canker is observed, the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 15 can lodge in the wound; when this is done, let a quantity of soot be mixed with water, and a little train oil well worked among it, but so that the mixture finally remains stiff; this may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned. The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery from having a bad subsoil, it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is properly drained, some fresh soil mixed with the natural soil, and the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at the time of winter or early spring pruning, in order to de- stroy the insects in their larve state. The following compositions have been known to protect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction of the larvee of insects. For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach Trees. To eight gal- lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. ~ or Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum Trees. To four gallons cf water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com- mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper. For Figs and Vines. To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and & quarter of an ounce of black pepper. All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.* * For the destruction of the Aphis which frequently attacks the Apple, as well as other fruit trees, while young, an application of diluted whale- oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious. {6 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio; this insect passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blos- soms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be gathered up, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in suc-. ceeding years; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which many experiments have been tried. Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are fre- quently on the move from November to the end of June, this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most hkely way to destroy them. The bark-louse is another pernicious insect; they resem- ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be imperceptible; they often prove fatal to the Apple tree, by preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be conquered by washing the trees with soapsuds, tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with a brush to tlie trunk and limbs of the trees; this should be done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the eracks in the bark should be completely covered. AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 17 The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers’ mortar early in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. Although our limits will not admit of a farther description of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes. If all agriculturists and horticul- turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many kinds of insects; and our citizens would be at less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises for safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not considered complete without an ash-vault; and a good farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving them the ashes; and there are some that will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the same purpose; and any thing that has passed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chim- neys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price sufficient to reward the col- lectors, besides paying all expenses; even the house-keep- ers’ ashes. in cities is a marketable article at all times, bring- ing from ten. to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire. O* 18 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare turfs from tanners’ bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may be burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blos- som, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept up by heaping on damp litter every night; this will prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should ’ be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterward on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after its having been used as a covering for his Spinach; and I have no hesitation in recommending it as an excelient reme- dy for securing fruit trees from insects, especially if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinked among them, it will be beneficial. This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to the farmer, as well as to the community at large; I, there- fore, cannot forbear offering some farther observations. It must be acknowedged that, although this country con- tains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well as almost every other description of fuel, yet the poor of our large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all the tales of wo could be sounded in the ears of a sympa- thizing community during our severe winters, I am persuaded they would arouse them to the consideration of a remedy. It is an acknowledged fact that the poor of Europe are AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. : 1S cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this country. This arises, in a great measure, from the circum- stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricultur- ists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their large towns and cities, at a price equal, in some instances, to half the cost of a winter’s fuel. Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable to the farmers here as they are in Hurope? ‘The extreme heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal if not greater proportions; and as respects manure, it must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it is in the densely peopled countries of Hurope. Perhaps some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti- vators to a considerable extent; but I would remind, such, that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather, (as in our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value than any others, and I am persuaded that, could they be fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good would result to the community. If the farmers in England can afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor of our community may be placed in easier circumstances as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land are to be found in the States of New-York and New-Jersey, and within a few miles of this city, which abound with peat earth; and the owners of such have already begun to ex- plore their treasures of this description. Good peat is now to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal, and also on the hearth; and if the ashes are not used to any better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the cheapest fuel known. I am persuaded that this subject is 20 OBSERVATIONS, ETC. worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to direct some of our most active citizens to a consideration of this subject, incalculable good would result to the commu- nity at large. If the public*authorities of our cities, and all those who distribute fuel among the poor, gratis, would give them peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would answer every purpose to the consumers. ‘Twelve bushels might be given in the first winter month to each of the ap- plicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction to save their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels of peat would make; and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the appli- cants was the most entitled to the distributor’s bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for hous- ing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a mode- rate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could all be used for the same pur- pose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested, may become a merchantable article as in Europe; and it is very probable that farmers may be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of peat; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and would, no doubt, meet with a ready sale. 21 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. In training and pruning fruit trees and vines, particulat attention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to the extremities of the branches; pruning, therefore, is use- ful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head, as we proceed. In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy the germs of future fruits, but merely remove all unservice- able sprigs. Inthe winter season, make your selection from the wood shoots of the preceding year; keep those which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant.. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by; but this busi- ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &c., before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it with meited wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder; or peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place, and then press into the pores of the wood, a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the con- “-gistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as in (22 uN TRAINING AND PRUNING. spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive is timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the manner in which vines, and some particular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and | direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and othe1s again in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be trained on low walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on each side. It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre- determine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the end of the season; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid growth and docility. | In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt to weaken tle shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre- vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of © injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. In cutting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direc- “tion, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to pre- vent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully peeled off, observing not to injure the sound bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, &c, Let the shoots and branches afterward be regularly laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose - ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. 23 strauds uf fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with; and observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots and branches next season. By attending to the proper training of fruit trees, every advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but preserved in every part of the tree, so that it will bear down to the very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally con- ducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a sup- ply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neg- lected, and they become naked, it is sometime before a sup- ply can be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middle of all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged. The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per- formed by mariy persons at any time from autumn to spring, _ and it may be so done without any great injury to them, provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in:such cases to defer ‘pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is perform- ed before the moving of the sap. The -necessity of this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will con- tinue so until the frost, &c., cause it to become stagnant ; and if the shoots were shortened while the sap was in mo- tion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree weakened; such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer _ by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred 24 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. until spring, all such parts as may have beeu affected by the weather, can be removed to the extent to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when it is done during winter, and the more so according to its severity ; because, whenever a cut is made on such green wood, the frost generdlly affects it, as the sap is not su dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intense- ness. Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal method has many advantages over any other; the small compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make them fruitful; and were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive. As some young gardeners may not know what is meant by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a frame or trellis of wood-work ; they produce large fruit plen- tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its other products. Tor espalier fruit trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy. The implements employed in pruning, and the manner. of using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is commenced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed ‘ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 20 on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw will be occasionally wanted; but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. —_—_—_— BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations that equally depend for their success upon the property that — buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems up- ward; but in these practices, the roots strike between the bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such practices, however, depends upon other causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between the scion and the stock, so that when the descending fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation. No one can have studied the economy cf the vegetable kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each other. ee BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. To bud trees, let the following method be adopted: Pro- eure a knife which has a thin blade, and’a sharp ivory han- dle; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. Wher 26 ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the middle of this cut make another downward, at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in che form of a T; then from one of your sprigs proceed with expedition to take off a bud; this is effected as follows: Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the: bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud, anid cut the piece off across the shoot; then immediately. let that part of the wood which was cut off with the bud be separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off the woody part with the other, which will readily come from the bark, if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous con- © dition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect; if there is no hole in it, let it be im- mediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward. - on each side from the cross cut, and thrusting the bud in be- tween the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possi - ble, As soon as the bud is put into its place, bind it securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding upward, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or ten days after the stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed; in the former case the ~ bandage may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, provided the first operation - was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, if done early in September. " Scatitor Buppine is performed by cutting fiom a small stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, ‘OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. ea and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same length; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with wet bass matting. This may be performed in the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month of July. The French practice this mode on Roses. GRAFTING. Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting it into.another, in such a manner that both may unite closely, and become one tree. These shoots are called scions o1 graits, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing some descriptions of stocks, the following hints will be useful : ie Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots. The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken from healthy trees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the spring, and buried half of their length in the ground, or in a cool and dry cellar; there to remain until the season of grafting. ‘ For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed down near to the ground. In nurseries, Apples intended for standards are generally grafted about nine inches high only, allowing them to grow up standard high, and forming their heads upon the second year’s shoots. In cider coun- tries, the stock is generally trained up standard high; and when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafte:t at the height at which it is intended the head of the tree shall be formed. As respects trees in general, directions will be found under their appropriate heads. The business of grafting is generally performed in March and April: there are various methods of grafting, but the following are those most generally practised : | o8 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. Crert Grarrinc. This mode of grafting is generally practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, and may be performed in the following manner: Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed off at a part free from knots, and the top pared smooth; then with a thin knife split down the stock through the centre to the depth of about two inches, and insert a wedge to keep it open for the reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it securely. Sipe Grarrine. This mode is sometimes practised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping ; the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, it must be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut sloping, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree on the top of a perpendicular slit; the bark of a tree above the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and the bark raised as in budding; the scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. Spiice, on Wuie Grarrine. This mode is often practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist of young wood of the former year’s growth, may be cut to the length of about four inches. This and the stock are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. Ton gueing consists in cutting a slitin the middle of the slepe of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion upward ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 29 if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then securely bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay or compo- sition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united, the bass string may be removed. SappLe Grartine. The celebrated Me. Knight practised this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by ' slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment may be made perfect; but if unequal, one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of bass matting, and covered with composition or clay; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect union has taken place. Root Grarrine. This operation is often performed on Grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. GraFtinc By Approacu. The trees, or shrubs, to be grafted in this mode, must be growin g very near to those which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre; and the parts of each tree thus prepared are to be brought together, and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay or composition; and when a complete union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees ix the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, anc. te the upright and perfect formation of the tree. 3* 30 FORSYIH’S COMPOSITION. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING COMPOSITION, GRAFTING CLAY, ETC., FOR USE ON FRUIT TREES. The British Parliament gave Mr. Forsyth a valuable pre- mium for the following important directions for making a composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of Brepesiag the trees, and laying on the composition: Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime | rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of pit or river sand; the three last articles are to be sifted fine before they are ea: then work them well together with a spade, and afterward with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used for ceilings of rooms. The composition being thus made, care must be taken to prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the bark with a draw- knife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be - particularly attended to; then lay on the plaster about an’ eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or: bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as possible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the ashes of burnt bones; put it into a tin box with holes in the top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster till the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an hour to absorb the moisture ; then apply more powder, rub- bing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the applica- tion of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry, smooth surface. ' | " WASH FOR THE STEMS OF FRUIT TREES, ETC. 31 If any of the comvosition be left for a future occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poured on it so as to cover the surface, otherwise the ‘atmosphere will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application. When lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, take pounded chalk or common lime, after having been slaked a month at least. As the growth of the trees will gradually effect the plas- ter, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require (which is best done when moistened by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet penetrating into the wound. As the best way of using the composition is found, by experience, to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soapsuds, and laid on with a painter’s brush. The powder of wood ashes and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting it down with the hand. _A Wasu For rue Srems or Frurr Trees. Take a peck of fresh cow-dung, half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the whole together with as much urine and soapsuds in a boiling state as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition may be applied to the stems of young standard trees when planted out in the orchard, to prevent their being injured by the depredations of reptiles and insects. A Wasu For Tae Stems anp Brancues or Frurr Trees. Take half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the whole together with as much boiling water as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition is recom- mended to be applied to the stems and limbs of Apple trees which are infested with the White Mealy Insect, having pre- viousl* removed the moss and loose bark by scraping them 32 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. off with a strong knife, or some other instrument adapted to the purpose. In using the composition, it will be most efficacious if applied in a warm state, or something more than blood heat. On young trees, strong vinegar will effectually destroy this insect, and I have for many years, in my own nursery, used it for this purpose; but this would be too expensive to be applied when the trees are large. A solution of potash to wash the stems of the trees early in the spring, before the buds expand, will effectually destroy them. To make Grartine Composition. ‘Take equal parts ot rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow; melt these together and mix them; then pour the composition into cold water, and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on brown paper, which being cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the breath, so as to become adhesive. Grartine CLay may be made in the following manner: Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow manure, and good stiff clay; add to this a portion of hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorpo- rated several days before it is required to be used. ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention are necessary; for, to have trees that do not answer the expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. As the young gardener may need such directions as are cal- culated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour tu CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 33 furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit trees are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked, stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark; such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discover- able in the young wood, and generally two or three inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectar- ine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a form. In some of the following articles, it will be seen that several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or five years’ growth, after having been headed down, that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them; for want of attention to these points, trees often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all due caution) any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a por- tion of the following composition be spread over the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure the tree: To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a little beeswax; let them be boiled together, and when cold 34 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY, they may be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dress- ing mangled roots is more particularly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c.; for without the application of some remedy, they gum at the roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materi ally injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so affected as never to recover afterward ; therefore, great care should be taken not to occasion such injury; and when accidents happen, all due caution and application are neces- sary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly corresponding to the branches; ag least, it should have one strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth and clear; their colour varies a lit- tle according to the kind of tree, but the older the roots are, the darker the colour is. After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a consid- erable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be necessary to prune away any sound, good roots, such pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a sloping direction; the slope should be toward the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an advanced season, in the spring of the year, it will be neces- sary to prune the tops; and if trees are removed that have been trained three or four years, and are not properly sup- plied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY, oa very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a lead. This attention is not so particularly required in the Pear, &c., as such will generally push forth shoots, although no leading ones are left; but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head may afterward be formed. For farther directions as respects pruning or planting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred to the preceding articles on these subjects; and as respects any species of fruit in par- ticular, directions will be found under its distinct head. In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such species and varieties as are in great repute for every good quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully perused ‘ Prince’s Pomvlogical Manual,’ ‘ Kenrick’s Ameri- can Orchardist,’ ‘ Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden,’ and ‘ Manning’s Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits ;’ beside these important guides, I had the select catalogues _of different nurserymen before me, and have chosen such only as have been most generally recommended. In doing this, | have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of which, none but those who have duly considered the subject can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hundreds of names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits. In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to the same variety; consequently, some fruits appear in the different catalogues under all the varied names; and the patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining 36 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. which are really distinct varieties, and which are most worthy of cultivation, are correspondingly great. To exemplify : Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol- lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant as many varieties in his orchard, namely, Brown BeEurre, Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Buerre Dore, Buerre d’ Anjou, Buerre d Or, Buerre @ Ambleuse, Buerre d? Amboise, Poire d’ Amboise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Beurre du Rot. Wuite Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre Blane, Bonne-ante, Saint Michael, Carlisle, Citron de Septem- bre, Kaiserbirne, Poire a court quene, Poire de Limon, Valen- cia, Pore de Neige, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, White Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the pur- chaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he has culy two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the White Doyenne. In making out the descriptive ne I have generally adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most cele- brated nurserymen, as a heading; and have caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus, my lists of about four hundred varieties of the various species of fruit, will embrace what has been deemed by some as different varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand. In preparing the following articles, the object has been to furnish information which would entertain, as well as instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaustible treasures to horticulturists, Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed through- out this work, it has been found impracticable to give many entire extracts; suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally collected from these sources. APPLE. 37 APPLE Pommirer. Pyrus malus. Tue Apple being so closely connected with our wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of yur fruits. The Apple Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained from some of the varieties of this excellent fruit being cal- culated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of our oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized to our soil; none can be brought to so high a degree of per fection with so little trouble; and of no other are there so. many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our coun- try affords. The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age: Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific; but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a strong, tenacious soil. Speechly mentions a tree in an or- chard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons produced upward of a hun- dred bushels of apples. , The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny’s time. There are upward of fifteen hundred now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under name; the catalogue of the Linnean Botanic Garden at Flushing contains about four hundred; and one of our en- terprising horticulturists, Mr. William Coxe, of Burlington, New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thirty-three kinds cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are usually divided into dessert, baking, and eider fruits: the 38 ' APPLE. first, highly flavoured; the second, such as fall, or become — mellow in baking or boiling; and the third, austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples: are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles . er white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are denominated burknots. The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the orchard, aid should be planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the fruit. Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the ~ Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties by being headed down to standard height: most commonly, in very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the younger branches of two or more years’ growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and ex- tending gradually to the side: the same bearing branches and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful. Prunine.—As, from the mode of bearing, Apple trees do not admit of shortening the general bearers, it should only DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 3) be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees kave not the most desirable form when three or four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches. In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, unless in cases of decay; but all superfluous cross branches and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- cated. Espaliers require a summer and winter pruning. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. SUMMER FRUIT. AMERICAN SummeR PEARmAIN, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap- ple is of medium size and oblong form; its colour bright red on the sunny side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red; the flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured, and excellent. It ripens early in August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Treea good ‘bearer. Benont. Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; the flesh yel- low, high flavoured, and excellent; it ripens in July and August. ‘The tree bears well,’ says Mr. Manning, ‘“‘and should be found in every good collection.” Earzry Boven, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me- dium to large; its colour pale yellow; its form oblong; its skin smooth; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August. | Earty Crorton, or Irish Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green colour, much ‘variegated with red; has a rich saccharine flavour ; is much esteemed for the dessert, and is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in-August. The tree grows well, and is not apt to canker. Earry Harvest, Prince’s Yellow Harvest, Pomme dete, July Pippin. A very early apple, of medium size ; bright straw colour; flesh white and tender ; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes a fine garden espalier; ripening its fruit in July and August. Earty RED Jungeatine, Red Margaret, Early Striped Juneating, Strawberry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red; flesh white, Juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. * Ripens early in August. PorTER. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, of obleng shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red blush; the flesh fine, sprightly, and agreeable. Ripensin September and October. Rep AsTracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ; the skm is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum; the flesh is white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August. 40 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. Rep QuaRENDON, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much es- teemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of a uniform deep rich crimscn., with numerous green dots intermixed; flesh of a brisk, pleasant, and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple: from August to Oc- tober; tree very productive. SummeER Pippin, Pie Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles the Fall Pippin; it differs in. having a little more red on the sunny side, and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular apple in New Jersey. SUMMER QuEEN. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow ground ; the flesh is yellow, very high flavoured, and excellent. The tree is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in August. SummER Rose, Harvest Apple. r cooking ; ripe in Seftember. 128 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS. GREEN Gace, Great Queen Claude, Dauphine, Grosse Reine Claude, Abricot Vert, Verte Bonne, Gros Damas Vert. A middle sized round fruit, of a yellowish green colour, and purplish russetty red next the sun; the flesh is of a greenish hue, melting, with an abundanceof very sweet and highly perfun.ed juice, of an exquisite taste ; it arrives at maturity toward the end of August. HorsE Pium, Lurge Sweet Damson. Fruit of medium size, oval, with a deep sature in the middle; skin dark red, inclining to purple when ripe ; flesh greenish yellow; juice acid but agreeable. Quantities of these Plums are sold in the New-York markets in August and September, for sweetmeats. The trees are generally raised from suckers; and Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines, will bud and thrive well on such stocks. Hurine’s Supers, Keyser’s Plum. This Plum is of monstrous size, and has been known to weigh nearly four ounces; it is of roundish form, and of a greenish yellow colour; the flesh is sweet and excellent. It was raised from seed by Mr. Keyser, of Pennsylvania, and brought into notice by Dr. Wm. Hulings, of that State. ImprRaTRicE, Imperatrice Violette, Biue Imperatrice. Simiana of some collections. One of the best of late clingstone Plums ; fruit medium size, oval; skin rich deep purple, covered with bloom; flesh yellowish . green, a little firm, very sweet, rich and juicy; the fruit hangs long on the tree, and is at maturity in October and November. ImpeRraL Diapem, Red Imperial, Red Diaper. A fine fruit, admira- bly adapted for ‘culinary purposes ; shape oval ; colour pale red, but dark when mature; flesh yellow, and separates from the stone; juice plentiful when perfectiy ripe, which is early in September ; it is of good flavour, and highiy perfumed. Irartan Damask, Damas d’Italie. This fruit is of medium size, nearly - round, a little flattened at the base; its colour blue or violet, and covered with a purple bloom; its flesh is yellow, rich, and juicy, and the tree, which matures its fruit in August, is very productive. Kirxer’s Pum. This variety is said to be as hardy and prolific as the Orleans, as handsome as the Damask, and as good as the Green Gage; fruit large, roundish; skin covered with a close, firm, azure bloom, through which appears a few golden specks; flesh greenish yellow, firm, juicy and rich ; in perfection the early part of September. La Royvace, Royale. A large and excellent freestone Plum, of a homely dull red colour, but concealed by a thick violet or azure bloom ; flesh fine, yellowish green, firm, juicy, high flavoured and delicious; a superior Plum ; at maturity early in September. LatE PurpLeE Damson, Purple Winter Damson, Blue Damascene, Blue Damson. ‘This variety is in great esteem for preserves, and generaliy commands a high price. It is of a dark purple colour, covered with bloom ; the flesh has rather too much acidity for a table fruit, but this tartness gives it an agreeable flavour when cooked, and if the fruit remains on the tree until November, it becomes sweet. Lawrence Gackt, Lawrence’s Favourite. A large round freestone Plum, of a yellowish green colour, tinged with red; flesh firm, and of deli- cious flavour, similar to the Green Gage. The tree is very fertile, and yields en abundance of fruit in August and September. Lucompe’s NonsucH. ‘This Plums large, compressed at the summit DESCRIPTIVE t.1ST OF PLUMS. 129 and lase; its breadth is two inches; its colour at maturity, as well as its form, resemble the Green Gage, but more streaked with yellow; flesh firm, rich and juicy ; at maturity in August; tree a good bearer. Mimm’s, BMimm’s Plum, Diaper Rougue. The fruit is very large, a little oblong ; colour bright purple, covered with thick bloom ; its flesh, which separates from the stone, is yellowish green, tender, juicy, and very azreeably flavoured ; ripe in September. Morocco, Early Black Damask, Black Damascus, Black Morocco, Early Damask, Early Morocco. This is considered one of the best of early Plums. The tree is very hardy and productive; fruit middle sized, roundish ; skin deep blackish purple, covered with a light blue bloom ; flesh greenish yellow, juicy, rich, and high flavoured; ripe early in August. NecraRinE Pium, Culedonian, Howell's Large, Prune Peche, Jenkin’s Imperial. One of the most beautiful Plums known; large, nearly round ; the skin at maturity varies from red to crimson, covered with azure bloom; flesh yellowish, coarse grained, astringent ; juice abundant, and of a mild, pleasant flavour ; at maturity in July and early in August. New-York Pureie, Brevoort’s Purple Bolmar, Brevoort’s Purple Wushington. Anexcellent fruit, raised from a seed of Bolmar’s Washing- ton Plum, that had been impregnated with the polien of the Blue Gage. ‘The fruit is very large; skin brown red, covered with purple bloom; flesh yellow, of a rich and brisk flavour, and adheres to the stone; ripe towards the end of August. Gcroser Gace, Frost Guge. Wire Busy A.pine, New White Alpine. A medium sized berry, of evate form and agreeable flavour: the plant has no runners, and ripens ite fruitin June and July. 140 WALNUT. All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly esti- mated in ‘Britain, where they are cultivated in great perfec. * tion. Berries have been known to weigh from one to two ounces, which have been grown to the circumference of eight inches and upward. It may be yratifying to the lovers of this excellent fruit to be informed that some of the best kinds are attainable here. The late Jesse Buel, Esq., of Albany, informed us, in the Albany Argus, of June 23, 1830, that he had grown the Downton, (a variety of the Chili, crossed by Mr. Kuight,) two years in succession, 4? inches in circumference. He said, that “he picked a pailful that morning of the Methven Scarlet Strawberry, which had an average circumference of three inches each. Several mea- sured four inches, and one four and a quarter inches. Sixty- three, divested of the calyx, weighed a pound, which is a PI trile more than four te the ounce.” Several of the choicest kinds have been lately transplanted from the London Socie- ty’s Garden into the American Nurseries, and some fine native seedlings have been lately propagated, which will. bear comparison with many of the best foreign varieties. WALNUT Nover., Juglans. From the circumstance of our-having an abundance of the fruit, from the many species of this genus of trees growing spontaneously around us, it is presumed that the culture of the Juglans regia, commonly called English Walnut, or Madeira Nut, has been neglected by many of our citizens. It is a native of Persia, and is cultivated in France, England, and in other parts of Europe, both as a fruit and timber tree. The fruit, in England, is mnch used in a ereen state for pickling, and also as an adulteration of soy sauce. In France, an oil, which supplies the place of that of Almonds, WALNUT. 141 is made from the kernel. In Spain, they strew the gratings of old and hard nuts, first peeled, into thuir tarts and other meats. The leaves strewed on the ground, and left there, annoy moles, or macerated in warm water, afford a liquor which will destroy them. ‘The unripe fruit is ased in medi- cine for the purpose of destroying worms in the human body. Pliny says, “the more Walnuts one eats, with the more ease will he drive worms out of the stomach.” The timber is considered lighter, in proportion to its strength and elasticity, than any other, and therefore com- monly used in England for gun stocks. It is used in cabi- net work in most parts of Europe; the young timber is allowed to make the finest coloured work, but the old to be | finest variegated for ornament. When propagated for tim- ber, the nut is sown ; but when fruit is the object, inarching from the branches of fruit - bearing trees is preferable. Bud- ding is also practised by some; the buds succeed best when taken from the base of the annual shoots; ordinary sized buds from the upper part of such shoots generally fail. Walnut trees that have not been grafted or budded, may be induced to produce blossoms by ringing the bark, that is, cutting out a streak of the bark around the body or main branches of the tree. Walnut trees seldom yield much fruit until fifteen or twenty years old; it is produced on the extremities of the preceding year’s shoots. The trees should | stand forty or fifty feet apart, and they may be permitted to branch out in their natural order. They need but little pruning, merely to regulate any casual disorderly growth, to reduce over-extended branches, and to prune up the low stragelers. Lest any of our native Walnuts should be neglected or abandoned by any, I annex. a description of the different kinds : : | Juglans catharticus, is known under the name of Butter . nut, Oilnut, and white Walnut; these nuts are used by the Indians as 2 medicine. 142 WALNUT. Juglans nigra, the black Walnut, is a tree of large size; its fruit is known to be excellent. Juglans oliveformis, Pecan, or Illinois nut, is delicious, The nuts of Juglans sulcata, which is called thick shell bark, Hickory, and Springfield, and Gloucester nut, are large and well-tasted. -The shell bark Hickory, shag bark, or scaly bark Hickory, Juglans alba, is so called on account of its bark, which is torn lengthwise in Jong loose strips, as in J. sulcata. The Juglans tormentosa, the Mucker nut, white heart Hickory, or common Hickory, and most of the other kinds enumerated, are worth preserving; ‘or cultivating where there is none, for its timber for mechanical purposes ; and that of the Juglans glabra, or Hog nut, is useful for brooms, &c 143 CALENDAR AND INDEX. Baa. JANUARY. THE Clear icicle shines in the sun’s faint beam, Congealed is the river, the lake, and the stream, - The trees are all leafless, while sulien winds roar, And Nature benumbed, seems her fate to deplore. As the weather at this season of the year is generally unfavourable to any employment in the Orchard or Fruit Garden, I cannot occupy a few pages more appropriately than in directing the reader’s attention to subjects connected with improvements in the several species and varieties of Fruits; for it must be admitted that there is no kind of fruit, however delicious, that may not be deteriorated, or however worthless, that may not be ameliorated, by particu- lar modes of management; so that after a given variety shall have been created, its merits may be either elicited or destroyed by the cultivator. In this place those practices only need be considered that tend to improvement. It is an indubitable fact, that all our fruits, without excep- tion, have been so much ameliorated by various circum- stances, that they no longer bear any resemblance in respect of quality to their original. Who, for instance, would recognize the wild parent of the Green Gage Plum in the austere Sloe, or that of the delicious Pippin Apples in the worthless acid Crab? Or, what resemblance can be traced between our famous Beurre Pears, whose flesh is so succu- lent, 1ich and melting, and that hard, stony, astringent fruit, which even birds and animals refuse to eat? Yet these are undoubted cases of improvement, resulting from time and skill patiently and constantly in action. But it would be of little service to mankind that the quality of any fruit should le improved, unless we adopt some efficient and certain lit CALENDAR AND INDEX, mode of multipzying the individuals when obtained Hence there are two great objects which the cultivator should aim at, viz Imelioration and Propagation. In planting seed for the purpose of procuring improved varieties, care should be taken not only that the seed be selected from the finest existing kinds, but also that the most handsome, the largest, and the most perfectly ripened specimens should be those that supply the seed. A seedling plant will always partake more or less of the character of its parent, the qualities of which are concentrated in the embryo, when it has arrived at full maturity. As this sub- ject has been already discussed in the second part of this work, page 133, I shall direct the reader’s attention to the operation of Cross Fertilization. This is effected by the action of the pollen of one. plant upon the stigma of another. The nature of this action is highly curious. Pollen consists of extremely minute hollow balls or bodies; their cavity is filled with fluid, in which swim particles of a figure varying from spherical to oblong, and having an apparently spontaneous motion. The stigma is composed of very lax tissue, the intercellular passages of which have a greater diameter than the moving particles of the pollen. When a grain of pollen comes in contact with the stigma, it bursts, and discharges its contents among the lax tissue upon which it has fallen. The moving particles descend through the tissue of the style, until one, or some- times more, of them finds its way, by routes especially des- tined by nature for this service, into a little opening in the integuments of the ovulum or young seed. Once deposited there, the particle swells, increases gradually in size, sepa- rates into radicle and cotyledons, and finally becomes the embryo,—the part which is to give birth, when the seed is sown, to a new individual. Such being the mode in which the pollen influences the stigma, and subsequently the seed, a practical consequence of great importance necessarily fol- lows, viz., that in all cases of cross fertilization, the new % CALENDAR AND INDEX. 145 variety will take chiefly after its polliniferous or male parent; and that at the same time it will acquire some of the constitutional peculiarities of its mother. Thus the male parent of the Downton Strawberry was the Old Black, the female a kind of Scarlet. In Coe’s Golden Drop Plum, the father was the Yellow Magnum Bonum, the mother the Green Gage; and in the Elton Cherry, the White Heart was the male parent, and the Graffion the female. The limits within which experiments of this kind must be confined are, however, narrow. It seems that cross fertili- zation will not take place at all, or very rarely, between dif- ferent species, unless these species are nearly related to each other: and that the offspring of two distinct species is itself sterile, or if it possesses the power of multiplying itself by seed, its progeny returns back to the state of one or other of its parents. Hence it seldom or never has happened that domesticated fruits have had such an origin. We have no varieties raised between the Apple and the Pear, or the Plum and Cherry, or the Gooseberry and the Currant. On the other hand, new varieties obtained by the intermixture of two pre-existing varieties are not less prolific, but, on the contrary, often more so than either of their parents: wit- ness the numerous sorts of Flemish Pears which have been raised by cross fertilization from bad bearers, within the last thirty years, and which are the most prolific trees with which gardeners are acquainted; witness also Mr. Knight’s Cherries, raised between the May Duke and the Graffion, and the Coe’s Plum already mentioned. It is therefore to the intermixture of the most valuable existing varieties of fruit that gardeners should trust for the amelioration of their stock. By this operation the Pears that are in eating in the spring have been rendered as delicious and as fertile as ° those of the autumn; and there is no apparent reason why those very early, but worthless sorts, such as the Muscat Robert, which, usher in the season of Pears, should | not be brought to a similar state of perfection. 146 CALENDAR AND INDER. Lindley recommends the operation of cross fertilization to be performed early in the morning of a dry day; about sun-rise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is entirely expanded ; the pollen being at that time humid, is closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be care- fully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors, care being taken not to wound the filaments or any other part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers have been extracted; and this operation must be repeated twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking the blossoms over a sheet of white paper, the time when it is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects with thin book-muslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived — in the germ. When the process has been successful, the pollen which has been placed on the stigma becomes so attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil; it changes form and colour, and soon disappears, and the blos- som will soon wither and fade; but when the: process has been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stig- ma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time. For further information on these subjects, see Outlines of the First Principles of Horticulture, pages 120 to 140 of the second part of this work. CLAENDAR AND INDEX. 147 FESRUARY. Without ’tis a desert, too bleak for a ram, Within we have one—merely Apples and Jam, Preserved for the season, with skill and with care, By the hands of the thrifty, the good, and the fair ! As the season for pruning fruit trees and vines com- mences in the various parts of our country at different periods, according to the climate, I would submit a few general remarks on the subject, with a view to prepare the gardener for the performance of the work in a skilful man- ner, and at the proper season; for be it remembered that untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the operation. Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to peruse every article before he enters upon the work of the garden ; he will there discover that no single rule will apply to every kind of fruit; first, because the mode of bearing is different in almost every distinct species; secondly, because the sap rises earlier and continues longer in the branches of some species than in others; and thirdly, because some trees, as the Plum for instance, is apt to gum, if pruned too soon in the season, and the grape vine to bleed if delayed too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be given, the gardener should examine all his fruit trees fre- quently in this month, with his implements at hand, and if circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker, also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the trees, in casting off the crude and undigested juices, which if confined in them will in a short time destroy them, or s¢me of their branches. , | As soon as the severity of the winter is over, the ee “148 CALENDAR AND INDEX. and half hardy grape-vines should be judiciously pruned, by cutting out old branches which produced fruit the preceding year, as well as all superfluous and weak young shoots, leaving the strong summer shoots for bearers the coming season, which should be judiciously trained as recommended in articles, pages 21 and 72. ) In pruning all descriptions of trees, some general rules may be observed. In cutting out defective branches, prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such shoots as have been injured by the winter, to the full extent, or even a few inches beyond, nh damage has been sus- tained. In pruning healthy young trees the limbs should not be too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree; which, if not rubbed off in the summer, while quite young, and as it were herbaceous, they will form crowded branches, which may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, how- ever, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direc- tion, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome head to the tree, according to its kind. It may be observed, farther, that in the event af young trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be neces- sary to maintain a proper equilibrium between the roots and the head, but it should be borne in mind, that foliage is as essential to the maintenance of the roots, as roots are neces- sary to the promotion of the growth of the head; because the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that secretions cannot take place if leaf buds are destroyed. As vegetation makes rapid progress in our climate after the frost is out of the ground, the gardener should employ himself in unfavourable weather, in providing implements and materials for the performance of the work of the gar-— den every fine day, in order that his pruning and planting may be done before the too rapid advance of the sap. CALENDAR AND. INDEY. 149 By such management, he will not only promote the wel- fare of his fruit garden, but will save himself much anxiety and labour as the season progresses. For some appropriate hints, relative to the employment of this month, see the Calendar for January and February, in the first part of this work, pages 148 and 149, also page 53 of the second part, and pages 21 and 34 of the third part. Toward the latter end of this month, it will be time to prune and train grape vines in many situations. Provide shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an inch wide, or list from broad cloth, which is still better ; also small sharp- pointed nails to use in training vines and such fruit-trees as require training. If any removals are contemplated, or if fresh trees or vines are required, arrangements should be made to have them planted as soon as the ground can be brought into good condition. See pages from 9 to 11, also pages 93, 101 to 104. If the kernels of the Apple, Pear, and Quince, and the pits _of the Apricot, Cherry, Peach, and Plum were not planted last autumn, as directed, let it be done as soon as the earth can be brought into tillable condition, because exposure to frost is essential to their vegetating. MARCH. The Gard’ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune, Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune ; The insects destroying, on branches or root, That injure the blossom, or live in the fruit. Ir the weather be mild this month, considerable work may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing, digging, or planting. Prune grape vines early in this month, if not done last month, but withhold the knife until you have surveyed the 150 CALENDAR AND INDEX, plant, and selected a full supply of the last summer shoots at regular distances from each other, for bearers the coming summer ; cut out the superabundant, with most of the last year’s bearers, and naked wood. Prune so that a young shoot will terminate each branch, and shorten the reserved shoots; the smallest to three or four joints, and the strong ones to ten or twelve. Fasten the vines to trellises as soon as pruned, with list, or shreds of woollen cloth, arranging the general branches from ten to twelve inches’ distance, more or less, according to the size of the vines and space allotted for them to growin. Preserve all strong shoots to make cuttings with, to be planted next month, which will produce vines fit toset out next year. See Observations on Training and Pruning, page 21; also, article Grape Vine, 72 to 88. Prune Apple trees, 38; Cherry, 52; Pear, 112; Quince, 132; also, Currant bushes, 59; Gooseberry, 71; cutting out all crowded branches, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood. If not done in the autumn, plantations may be made this month of all the above species. ; Cut out and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs, reserving three or four of the strongest young shoots on each stool; shorten them at the top, and take away all others, the strongest of which may be transplanted to form a new bed. Lay the trailing varieties for propagation, 134. In transplanting trees, care should be taken that the col- lar, or that part from which emanate. the main roots, be not inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and, consequently, impedes the natural circulation of the juices. A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed two or three inches, 9, 93, 101 and 125. Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants, also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise stocks to bud and graft upon; fruit stones and kernels may also be planted for the same purpose. Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at publir CALENDAR AND INDEX, d 151 nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general planting; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate bearers; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted. For full information on this subject, the reader is referred to the article, ‘On the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,’ page 32. Toward the end of the month is a good time to prepare for the cultivation of Cranberries ; they thrive best in a wet soil, but will grow on almost any land, by giving it a top- dressing of peat, bog, or swamp earth. Assoon as such ground can be brought into tillable condition, get plants that were produced from layers of the last season, and set them out in rows about two feet apart; they will soon cover the ground by their runners, which, on being layed, will produce an abundance of plants well adapted for additional plantations in succeeding years. See page 57. Provide Cedar or Chestnut stakes for the purpose of driving into the ground, to protect newly planted trees from injury by the wind. APRIL. _ No advocate he for a long morning nap, Waking early, he plants ere the rise of the sap ; Whilst glee and good humour enliven his face, More happy, by far, than his Lordship or Grace. Finisu pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of thig month; also Apricot, 47; Almond, 51; Fig, 63; Mulberry, 90; Nectarine, 94; Peach, 104; Plum, 125; not forgetting such trees, vines, and shrubs as may have been left undone last month. At the same time manure and dig the ground around every fruit tree that requires it. Prepare the ground for planting, by diggir g, trenching, und manuring, either generally, or in such particular places as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, page 9. 142 CALENDAR AND INDEX, This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot, Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and all such fruit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm cli- mates. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince and other hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety early in this month; but autumn is considered the most favourable season for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of northern latitude, 10, 93, 101 and 125. Those who have a variety of soil should accommodate all the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to be the best adapted to its culture; and due attention should be paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden o orchard, 12. Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to prevent their spreading, and also the larve of insects; direc- tions for which will be found in the article headed, ‘ Obser- vations on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are liable,’ 13. Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general, 27; prune and plant Currant bushes, 59; Filbert, 65; Goose- berry, 70; Raspberry, 134. Plant cuttings and suckers from these shrubs; also of such trees as produce them, in order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft upon, as well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and kernels of various kinds may be planted for the same purpose. | This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines, and the vine may also be propagated by layers, that is, by bending a young shoot down into the earth a few inches, and pinning it down with a forked stick. The top may be tied to a small stake, to keep it perpendicular; 76 and 81. The tender vines that were laid down in autumn, should be taken up, an fastened to trellises or stakes. Uncover ard raise up the Antwerp and other tender varieties of the Raspberry, and prune them, before the buds shoot, at the same time cultivate the ground around them, and drive in stakes for their support. In orde: to obtain a CALENDAR AND INDEX. 153 good supply of Raspberries in the autumn, cut down some of the twice bearing varieties close to the ground, which will occasion strong suckers to shoot up, that will yield an abun- dant crop of fruit at a season when other varieties are not attainable, 134. Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter through the winter, should be uncovered, and the plants carefully cultivated ; some lay straw over their beds, an inch or two thick, and set fire to it, 137. As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees, and sow the ashes over the ground, 18 and 91. MAY. The Gooseberry green the first fruit of the year, In pudding or pie, affords exquisite cheer, But e’en should the season their pleasure forefend, In such adilemma, green Rhwhbarbd’s a friend. Finisu planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this month as possible ; those planted last month should be kept watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to such as may be exposed to the wind, 93, 101 and 125. Finish grafting early in this month. Apples, Pears, and other late-shooting kinds may still succeed, 27. Strawberry beds may he made early in this month, and if the transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen- tiful supply the next season. Hovey’s American Seedling is worthy a place in every good collection for its productive- ness, and the superiority of its fiuit. The Methven Scarlet, and Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully. Kean’s Seedling, and also the Downton, are of superior fla vour. The Elton Seedling, Southborough Seedling, Myatt’s 154 CALENDAR AND INDEX. Seedling, and Bishop’s Orange, are in great repute where cultivated. The old Scarlet, being one of the earliest, should not be forgotten. The Wood and the Alpine Straw berry will produce fine fruit from seed sown in the spring. For names of other varieties, mode of planting, &c., see article, page 136. If frost prevail when fruit trees are in blossom, those trained on trellises, or against walls and fences, may be pro- tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them; some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens be. tween the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &c. The object in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to break off the sun’s rays in the morning after a frosty night, because the sudden transition from cold to heat does more injury than the cold itself. Propagate Tig trees by = cuttings, — and by grafting, 62. If any webs or larvee of insects appear on the leaves of fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves before the insects become quickened, which may be a means of preventing any depredation to the advancing leaves and buds. The trees of Plum and other stone fruit are very apt to gum and canker at this season of the year: in such cases the defective parts shou'd be pruned closely off, and whale oil soap applied to the wound. A little soot also should be rubbed on while wet. In large fruit gardens and or- chards, means should be used to destroy insects by fumiga- tion, washing, &c. For various remedies, see Observations on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are liable, page 13; see, also, article page 30. Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear; also rub off all useless buds in early-shoocting wall trees, as Nectarine, Apricots, &c., 48. To protect Gooseberries and other fruits from mildews sprinkle the leaves with soap-suds ; and while they are wet, CALENDAR AND INDEX, 155 sow sulphur lightly over them. This may be done two or three times a week if necessary, as it is better to use a little of the ingredients frequently, than too much at once. A solution made of saltpetre and stone lime is also a good remedy ; but it must be used with caution. See pages 14 and 71. JUNE. he The Cherry, the Currant, and Strawberry red, To the rich and the poor their refreshment have shed ; Pomona has scatter’d her blessings abroad, The full-bearing branches bend down with their load. Tue principal business of this month in the fruit.garden is summer pruning, which is generally performed with the finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and buds; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine, and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in clusters. The Apricots, so thinned off, and the first princi- pal green fruit, will make excellent pies and tarts. See pages 48 and 92. Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from birds, with nets, particularly those trained as espaliers, 52. Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varieties, trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with shoots of the year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry fruit thinned, to promote its growth and ripening in full per fection, 59 and 71. All trees on espaliers require attention; cut off such superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained in, leaving well-situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place of any old branches that it may be thought necessary to