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FRUIT,
FLOWER, AND KFrCHEN

GARDEN.

BY
PATRICK ,NEILL, LL.D., F.R.S.E.,

SECRETARY TO THE ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

ADAPTED TO THE UNITED STATES.

FOURTH EDITION,

REVISED AND IMPROVED BY THE AUTHOR.

PHILADELPHIA:
HENRY CAREY BAIRD,

SUCCESSOR TO E. L. CAREY.
1851.

♦ * **

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by

HENRY CAREY BAIRD,

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Penn-
sylvania.

PHILADELPHIA :
T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS. PRINTERS.

PREFACE

TO THE

AMERICAN EDITION

The small but very comprehensive -work here pre-
sented to the American public, is the production of one
who for more than thirty years was secretary of the
" Caledonian Horticultural Society," and who enjoyed
every facility for acquiring the very best information
relating to the subjects upon which he treats. That it
has been favorably received in England and Scotland,
would seem very clear from the fact of its having gone to
a fourth edition in a very short time. The treatise pre-
sents, in a condensed form, a summary view of the con-
dition of horticultural knowledge in Britain, and espe-
cially in Scotland, from whence we derive the most
intelligent and successful gardeners. The superior skill
of these in the management of plants and the culture of
many rare kinds of fruit, is doubtless owing in a great
degree to the extraordinary exertions they have been
accustomed to put forth to secure success in a climate
far less genial to fruits and flowers than that of most
parts of the United States. In endeavoring to adapt
this valuable manual to the condition of things in the
United States, it has been thought best to retain all the

Vlll PREFACE.

original matter, however apparently irrelevant, since
most intelligent persons can make proper allowances for
changes of circumstances, and are interested in knowing
how many things can be accomplished where greater
obstacles to success are presented than they themselves
are forced to contend against. To persons interested
in Horticulture and Fruit culture, residing in the more
northern sections of the Union, and -especially the
British provinces, Vfhere considerable difficulties are
met with from the shortness of summers, and rigor of
winters, a w^ork containing the latest and best informa-
tion relating to the modes of rendering the natural
sources of heat as efficient as possible, cannot fail to be
acceptable. The same may be said of those who in
every section of our country desire to be able to raise
fruits, vegetables, and flowers, under protection, and by
the most judicious application of artificial heat, bring
these to perfection in every month of the year.

Within a very short time the vine culture has met
in the United States with extraordinary success, and
the production from native grapes of wine rivaling
some of the best kinds derived from the Khine and
Moselle, has occasioned no little surprise, especially
among those who entertained the prevailing theory that
no good wine could be produced on the eastern portion
of a continent. Mr. Longworth of Cincinnati, the chief
among many pioneers, by refuting this dogma has laid
his countrymen under the greatest obligations, and
added a new resource to the already teeming wealth of
the American soil. It is the importance which we
think invests this subject, that has led us to devote such
particular attention to American grapes and the modes
of culture adopted successfully in the vicinity of Cincin-

PREFACE. IX

nati, for much of wliich information we have been in-
debted to an extremely valuable publication made last
year by Robert Buchanan, Esq., of that city.

Any one who has given attention to the subject must
have been struck with the waste of ground devoted in
the United States to the culture of fruit of indifferent
character. As it is obvious that good varieties occupy
no more space than inferior ones, we have endeavored
to aid in their choice those who set out orchards or cul-
tivate fruit in any manner, by giving them the decisions
of the American Qongress of Fruit-grotuers, which has
held several annual meetings in New York and else-
where— a highly respectable body of intelligent and
practical men, meeting annually to discuss the merits
and promote the culture of the best fruits of all kinds.
A few years will demonstrate to the country the most
valuable results from this association of accom.plished
and experienced pomologists.

XU CONTENTS.

PAGE

Alliaceous Plants: Onions, Leeks, Shallot, and

Garlic, - . - . . 202-207

Spinaceous Plants: Spinach, Tetragonia, Qui-

noa, &c., 207-211

Asparaginous Plants : Asparagus, Sea-kale, Ar-
tichoke, and Cardoon, - - - 211-221

Salads, &c. : Lettuce, Endive, Succory, Celery,

Rhubarb-stalks, Sweet Herbs, - - 221-230

Melons, Squashes, Pumpkins, dc, - - 230

Flower Garden in general.

Soil, AYalks, Edgings, &c., - - - 240-250
Ornamental Shrubs, and Rosary, - - 253
Showy Herbaceous Plants, - - - 259
Florists' Flowers: Hyacinth, Tulip, Ranuncu-
lus, Anemone, Carnation, Pink, &c., - 272
Botanical Structures : Green-house, Conserva-
tory, Stove, with Ornamental Plants suited
to each, - - - - - 296
Cultivation of Tropical Orchidaceae, - - 309

Forcing Garden, - - . - - - 313

Difierent kinds of furnaces, - - . 314

Heating by steam, - - - - 318

hot water, - - - - 320

Admission of Air and Light, - - - 334

Vinery, ------ 342

Peach-house, ----- 349

Cherry-house, Fig-house, and Orangery, - 354
Pinery, Nursing-Pit, Succession-Pit, and Fruit-

ing-house, ----- 369

Culture of Pine-apples, - - - - 369

Melonry, various forms of Pits, - - 380

Cucumbers, Gourds, and Mushrooms, - 382

Calendar of Horticultural Duties in the various

months, ----- 395

HORTICULTURE

INTRODUCTION.

Horticulture is that branch of rural economy which
consists in the formation and culture of Gardens. Its
results are culinary vegetableSj fruits, and flowers. On
one side it is allied to Agriculture, from which, how-
ever, it is distinguished by the nature of its products,
and by the smaller extent and greater complexity of
its operations ; on the other side, in its processes of
embellishment, it approaches the department of the
Landscape Gardener and the Forester, from which,
however, it also retires in the comparative minuteness
of its details.

Like other arts. Horticulture borrows its principles
from the general sciences. To Botany it is beholden
for the facts and theories of vegetable physiology ; to
Chemistry for assistance in reference to soils, manures,
and artificial heat; and to Meteorology for a knowledge
of many circumstances which very materially affect the
labors of the gardener. "With these subjects, the phi-
losophical horticulturist will not fail to make himself
familiar. But it is very desirable that such information
should be extensively diffused iimong practical men; as

Jt^u CoU«-

10 INTRODUCTION.

it is only from this quarter that much improvement, in
our present state of knowledge, can be expected. Truth,
however, obliges us to admit that gardening has been
most successfully practiced when treated as an empiri-
cal art. Few of those who are minutely conversant
with its numerous manipulations have undergone such
an intellectual training as to enable them to wield gene-
ral principles with effect. Many who are not inexpert
or unsuccessful while they follow the routine practice (a
practice, be it remembered, founded on long experience
and close observation), egregiously fail when, with im-
perfect information, or ill-advised ingenuity, they en-
deavor to strike out new paths for themseHes. The
object of the art, too, limits the application of the de-
ductions of science. Its whole business consists in the
imitation of Nature, whose processes may indeed be, in
some measure, originated, as when a seed is inserted
in the ground, or modified, as in the artificial training
of fruit-trees, but which may not be entirely controlled,
much less counteracted. The principle of .vegetable
life will not endure interference beyond a certain point,
and our theoretical views should be so directed as to
interfere with it as little as possible. Observation and
experiment are the grand means by which the art has
arrived at its present state of advancement: at the
same time, it is obvious that an enlarged acquaintanee
with science will aid us in imitating the processes of
nature, will guide the hand of experiment, suggest con-
trivances, and enable us to guard against error ; and,
above all, will tend to dispel those prejudices which
practitioners in the empirical arts are so prone to cher-
ish.

Gardening, Mr. Walpole observes, was probably one

INTRODUCTION. 11

of the first arts which succeeded to that of buiiding
houses, and naturally attended property and individual
possession. Culinary, and afterwards medicinal herbs,
were objects in request by every head of a^family; and
it became convenient to have them within reach, with-
out searching for them in woods, in meadows, or on
mountains, as they might be wanted. Separate in-
closures for rearing herbs were soon found expedient.
Fruits were in the same predicament; and those most
in use, or the cultivation of which required particular
attention, must early have entered into and extended
the domestic inclosure. Such maybe deemed the lead-
ing heads of a conjectural history of the art; and, in-
deed, if we would ascend into remote antiquity, we can
have recourse only to conjecture ; for although, in the
Sacred Writings, and in the earliest profane authors,
allusions to gardens occur, little is told us either of their
productions or their culture. At the close of the Roman
commonwealth, the catalogue of fruits had become con-
siderable, the principles of grafting and pruning were
understood and practiced, and shortly afterwards, even
artificial heat seems to have been partially employed.
With the decline of the empire, horticulture .seems also
to have declined, or to have become stationary; but, at
the revival of learning, it arose from the slumber of
the Dark Ages, encumbered, it is true, by the dreams
of the alchymist, the restrictions of unlucky days, and
the imaginary efi'ects of lunar influence. From these
fetters it was ere long emancipated by the diffusion of
knowledge, and it has hitherto kept pace with the gene-
ral improvement of society. Modified by climate and
other circumstances in different countries, its advance-
ment has been various ; but nowhere has it made

12 INTRODUCTION.

greater progress than amongst ourselves. Introduced
into England at an early period, gardening became
conspicuous in the reign of Henry VIII. and his imme-
diate successors, and met with considerable attention
during the reigns of the Stuarts. In the first half of
the eighteenth century, Miller, Switzer, and others, la-
bored with success in improving the operations, and
unfolding the principles of the art ; and these were
succeeded by Abercrombie, Speedily, and a host of
writers, who added greatly to our stores of knowledge.
In 1805 was established the Horticultural Society of
London, which was followed, in 1809, by the institution
of the Caledonian Horticultural Society at Edinburgh;
and in their train have sprung up a multitude of pro-
vincial gardening societies, all of which have given an
impulse to the public mind, and stimulated the exer-
tions of individuals. Experimental gardens have been
formed, in which, amongst other things, the important
task of distinguishing and classifying the numerous
varieties of our hardy fruits has been zealously prose-
cuted. The mass of information now collected is very
great, and the labor expended in its diffusion unwea-
ried. Judging from the literature of the day, and pass-
ing downwards from the sumptuous Transactions of the
Metropolitan Society, through the numerous periodi-
cals, to the penny information for the people, we shall
scarcely find any art, however nationally important,
which receives more attention, or on which the liberality
of the wealthy is more abundantly bestowed. The pub-
lic nursery-gardens, too, both at London and elsewhere,
establishments intimately connected with our subject,
and which, in a manufacturing nation, are not the least
wonderful amongst the applications of skill and capital,

INTRODUCTION. 13

l^rove the extent and perfection to wliicli gardening has
advanced. Although, however, there is not, perhaps,
in the annals of invention, a chapter of higher interest
than the history of Horticulture, the limits prescribed
to us do not permit us to enter farther into details : we
must, therefore, refer to the late eminent Mr. Loudon's
Encycloi^sedia of Crardening, a work which, for minute-
ness of exposition, copiousness of illustration, and gene-
ral accuracy, is perhaps unrivaled amongst the didactic
treatises of our times.

We intend to confine our attention almost exclusively
to the horticulture of Great Britain, and we shall en-
deavor to give such an exhibition of its practice as may
suit the middle districts of the island. The objects of
culture are so numerous, the operations so varied, and
the materials so copious, that, in presenting what can
claim only the character of a sketch of our subject, it
will be necessary to follow a plan of selection. It would
be unprofitable to describe all -the methods of culture
to be found in practice at the present day ; "we shall
therefore notice such only as are deemed the best.

The subject naturally divides itself into the Fruit,
the Kitchen, and the Flower Garden : but as the first
two generally occupy the same locality, or are inter-
mingled with each other, and as everything connected
with their formation is inseparably involved, we shall,
to some extent, take them together. Then Avill follow
the Flower Garden ; and, by way of conclusion to the
whole, a short Calendar.

FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this compartment are cultivated the articles which
are necessary for the supply of the kitchen and the
dessert-table. In England, it is usually enclosed with
walls, not only for the sake of security and general shel-
ter, but to afford the means of cultivating in that climate
the finer fruits by training the trees close to the walls.
In the United States, little or no protection against cold
is necessary, unless it be in the more northern sections.
But the English garden must be furnished with hot-
houses, melon-frames, and similar contrivances, by
which the fruits of warmer climates are subjected to an
artificially increased temperature, and thus brought to
maturity. .The size of a walled garden ought evidently
to bear some proportion to the splendor of the mansion-
house of which it is an appendage, to the extent of the
park, and the means of the family. Where the demand
is large, such a garden should not comprehend less
than from four to six acres. In many places, this extent
will not afi"ord an adequate supply of culinary vegeta-
bles, but some of the bulkier crops, such as peas,
potatoes, and turnips, may be raised in the orchard,
or on the home farm. From an acre and a half to- three
acres may be regarded as forming a respectable middle-
sized garden ; but, within the limits already mentioned.

16 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

it is better, in the first formation of a garden, to inclose
too large than too small a space.

The productiveness of such an establishment will de-
pend chiefly upon the natural fertility of the soil, and
the favorable kind of situation, but also in a consider-
able degree upon the labor bestowed upon.the culture.
Where a garden is undertvorked (to use a gardener's
phrase), the finer products must necessarily be scanty,
for whatever requires care requires-time ; and it not un-
frequently happens that a gardener fails in some crop,
not from defect of method or skill, but because he had
not been able to overtake it, or has been obliged to make
his preparations in a hurried and insufficient manner.
All circumstances being favorable, a British garden is
perhaps unrivaled in fertility by any cultivated spot in
the world. A copious supply of esculents flows into the
kitchen at all seasons ; and after a rich abundance of
fruit has been afi"orded during summer and autumn, the
winter stores may be easily prolonged till the early
forced fruits come again to the table.

We shall first treat of th^ general properties and ap-
pendages of the Fruit and Kitchen Garden.

Situation. — The position of the garden in relation to
the mansion-house properly belongs to the province of
Landscape-Gardening, as it obviously should be in
keeping with the general features of the park scenery.
There should intervene a lawn, or piece of green sward,
of larger or less dimensions ; and great attention should
be paid to the original formation of such lawn. After
the surface of the ground has been leveled and made
fine, some such selection of gra,ss-seeds as the following
(calculated for half an acre) should be adopted: Lolium

SITUATION. IT

perenne tenue, {Slender Rye-Grass,) 8 lbs.; Trifolium
repens, {tvliite Dutch Clover,) 3 lbs.; T. minus, 1 lb.;
Cynosurus cristatus, {Orchard Grass,) 3 lbs.; Festuca
duriuscula, {Hard or Smooth Fescue,) 2 lbs.; F. ovina
tenuifolia, {Slender Sheep'' s Fescue,)! lb. ; Poa nemoralis
sempervirens, {Annual Meadow Grass,) 2 lbs. ; and An-
thoxanthum odoratum, {Sweet-scented 3feadotu Grass,)
J lb. If the soil be light or sandy, more of the fescue-
grasses may be sown, and J lb. of Lotus corniculatus
{Common Bifd's-Foot Clover, or Trefoil) added. It
may, in general, be remarked that, as a place of interest
to every well-informed proprietor, the garden should be
so near to the mansion as to be conveniently accessi-
ble on foot, probably within little more than a quarter
of a mile ; while it should be so distant as to avoid the
possibility of offence arising from the necessary garden-
ing operations, and the resort of workmen. A position
on one side of the house is to be preferred, unless a
much more eligible one occur in the rear. Wherever it
be placed, it should be so masked by evergreen shrubs,
and by trees, as not to be visible from the principal lawn,
or from the walks in the shrubbery and flower-garden.
If the surface of the domain be undulated, the garden
is almost unavoidably seen from some point or other,
and the coup-d'^oeil of the inclosure walls is apt to
present the idea of a huge box; an unpleasant impres-
sion, which should by all means be avoided or lessened
by plantations judiciously introduced.

Ground possessing a gentle inclination toward the
south is desirable for a garden. , On such a slope effec-
tual draining is easily accomplished, and the greatest
possible benefit is derived from the sun's rays. The
lower part of the gentle declivity is perhaps to be pre-

18 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

ferred; but a very low situation should scarcely be
chosen, as the subsoil is apt to be damp ; fogs often
brood over such spots, and frosts are more injurious
there than on higher ground. It is beneficial to have
an open exposure towards the east and west, so that
the garden may enjoy the full benefit of the morning
and evening sun.

Shelter is absolutely necessary ; and that afforded
by natural objects, such as rising grounds, is the best.
Where this is wanting, its place should be supplied by
masses of forest-trees, disposed at such a distance, how-
ever, as not to shade the wall trees,' perhaps not nearer
than 150 feet. The chief purpose of such screens is to
break the force of the winds ; and as every situation is,
in this respect, liable to some peculiarities occasioned
by the general structure of the country, or by the rever-
beration of aerial currents from adjacent eminences,
these peculiarities should be carefully observed and ob-
viated. The idea that crowded plantations increase the
warmth of a place, is often fallacious ; and, in the opin-
ion of many, they do more harm than good, by en-
couraging blight. The trees employed may be of a
varied character, but lime-tree, horse-chestnut, beech,
sycamore, weeping birch, oak, and the smooth-leaved
wych elm, should prevail. There may also be a pro-
portion of evergreen trees, such as firs, pines, hollies',
and evergreen oaks. When these masses of wood are
planted at. the time the garden is formed, poplars,
larches, and other fast-growing trees, should be thickly
intermixed to act as temporary trees- or nurses, which
are afterwards to be weeded out, as the permanent trees
more slowly advance to maturity. W^alls immediately
around the garden, and low hedges intersecting the

WATER — APPROACH. 19

compartments, are liiglilj useful in preventing radia-
tion during clear nights, which always produces great
additional cold.

A supply of ivater is equally necessary. Where a
streamlet can be made to flow through the garden, and
keep a central pool constantly full, it will conduce both
to utility and amenity. In many places, such a stream-
let cannot be commanded ; but water may be conducted
in pipes from springs or sources higher than the general
level of the garden, and collected in a tank in the upper
part of the inclosure. Supposing the garden to have
a slopfe to the south, water might not only be supplied
from such tank for ordinary garden purposes, but might
be made to irrigate different quarters in succession. The
late Mr. Knight, of Downton, was in the practice of irri-
gating w^ith great advantage his strawberry beds while
in flower, the rows of celery and of broccoli, and of other
crops transplanted during summer; and particularly the
late crops of peas, the irrigation of which tended to pre-
vent mildew, and to insure the production of healthy
green peas during the" month of October. A pipe of
suflicient calibre should be led from the pool or tank to
the hot-houses, and to two or three different stations in
the garden. Well or spring water should be exposed in
reservoirs to the action of the sun and air, w^hen it be-
comes comparatively soft and salubrious for plants. As
rain-water is found better than any other for this pur-
pose, all that can be collected should be stored in cis-
terns and kept for use.

Connected with the situation is the approach to the
garden from without, ia matter requiring -some taste and
contrivance. If possible, it should be from the south,
when the range of glazed houses, always fronting to-

20 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GAEDEN.

wards the south, will bo seen at once, and produce a
pleasing effect. Sometimes a lateral entrance is very
suitable, leading, it may be supposed, from the flower-
garden through an intermediate shrubbery, and coming
upon the hot-houses in flank. It is delightful to be in-
troduced at once and by surprise into a Slip, as it is
called, where on the one hand there is an extent of wall
covered with luxuriant fruit-trees in full bearing, and
on the other is displayed a rich collection of ornamental
shrubs and large perennial border-flowers.

Form. — The shape of a garden, it is obvious, must
chiefly be determined by the nature of the situation, and
the taste of the proprietor. In general, gardens are
eitlier squares or. oblongs, chiefly, it is presumed, because
Walls of this configuration contain the greatest space
within the least perimeter, a result of very questionable
value. They may be of any form, with this limitation,
that attention should be paid to facilitating the trans-
port of manures and garden products, for when the
grounds are straggling, or complicated in structure, the
labor of cultivation is much increased.

Exterior Fence. — Most English gardens are encircled
by an outer boundary, formed by a sunk wall or ha-ha,
surmounted by an invisible wire-fence to exclude hares,
or by a hedge or paling. Occasionally this sunk wall is
placed on the exterior of the screen plantations, and
walks lead out among the trees, to give favorable
views of the adjacent country. Although the interior
garden necessarily receives its form from the walls, the
ring-fence and plantations may, with propriety, be
adapted to the shape and surface of the ground. The
spaces between the outer fence and the walls are^, as
already noticed, called Slips, and, where circumstances

WALLS. > 21

render it eligible, a considerable extent of ground is
sometimes included, and appropriated to the culture of
small fruits and kitchen vegetables. If possible, the
gardener's house should be situate here, as being conve-
nient for him, and as tending to scare depredators.

Walls, — 'For the production of the finer fruits, such
as peaches, apricots, figs, hardy grapes, and most of the
delicate French and Flemish pears, the aid of walls is
indispensable in the English climate. Indeed, in the
northern and higher parts of that country, ^Yhere there
is no walled garden, the dessert can seldom consist of
more than small fruits, such as gooseberries, with some
apples and pears. So valuable in this respect are walls,
that it is perhaps a matter of surprise that they have
not been multiplied by the erection of slight and cheap
structures, such as are common in the peach-gardens in
France. The north inclosure wall having, towards the
interior of the garden, a south aspect, is of course ap-
propriated to the more tender Tvinds of fruit-trees ; here,
it is generally estimated, they enjoy an increased tem-
perature equal to T° of south latitude. The east and
west walls are set apart for fruits of a somewhat hardier
character ; while the inner face of the south inclosure
wall, having a north aspect, is well adapted for retard-
ing Morella cherries and currants.

The north inclosure wall is generally placed nearly
perpendicular to the meridian, that is, so as to have the
sun directly in front at 12 o'clock. Minute directions
have indeed been given to make it face towards^ 11 or
11 J A. M., on the ground that thus it would sooner meet
the rays of the morning sun ; but it does not appear that
this arrangement has been the subject of direct experi-
ment, and certainly the arguments by which the supe-

22 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

rioritj of this aspect is supported are far from being
satisfactory. The east and west walls are commonly
placed at right angles to that already mentioned, but
they may follow the shape of the ground, and if this
slope to th« south, they descend with the declivity.
The south inclosure wall affords on the outside a valu-
able aspect to the south, which is deserving of particular
attention, the finest fruit being often, here produced.
It is presumed that all the walls are to be covered,
both within and without, with trees trained en espalier.

Different portions of the inclosure wall are always
built of different heights, and this variation of height is
the more necessary when the ground approaches to a
level. In such a situation, and when the inclosure does
not exceed two acres, the north wall may rise to the ele-
vation of 14 feet ; the walls on the east and west may
be two feet lower, and the south wall need not exceed
10 feet. In larger gardens, the walls are generally made
proportionally higher: on the north, perhaps 16 feet, on
the east and west 14,^ and on the south 12. In several
excellent Scottish gardens, planned by the late Mr. Hay,
such as that at Castle Semple, a piece of building is
made to project diagonally outwards from the corners
where the walls meet at right angles. This projection
is 16 or 17 feet in length. It serves to strengthen the
fabric, and, at the same time, acts as a hrise-vent^ break-
ing the force of the winds which sweep around walled
gardens.

Walls inclined to the horizon have been recommended
by Desaguliers, Hoffels, and others; but, independently
of the theoretical objections which might be urged
against them, and which, in actual practice, would. pro-
bably counterbalance their supposed advantages, they

WALLS. 23

must be inconvenient from their bulk, or the large space
which they occupy ; and hence they have never come
into general use. Where, however, the natural slope
of the ground is too great for carrying on the ordinary
operations of gardening, sloping terraces may advan-
tageously be converted into a kind of inclined wall, to
be faced with slate or some other material that does
not readily absorb moisture.

Bricks afford the best and the most kindly material
for garden-walls. Being rough and porous, they absorb
radiant caloric, and, being bad conductors, they accu-
mulate heat ; when thus rendered warmer than the am-
bient air, they rapidly part with the extra heat, and
maintain the temperature amid the branches nailed to
the wall ; they do not retain moisture, and, by their
numerous interstices, they furnish every facility for nail-
ing in the twigs of the fruit-trees. Where freestone
(that is, sandstone capable of being easily dressed) is
abundant, the exterior wall is often formed of coursed
masonry, and the interior is faced with bricks. The
foundation should, if possible, be formed of stone.
Whimstone (that is, either the greenstone or the basalt
of mineralogists) forms an excellent material for fruit-
walls. It is susceptible of a neat hammer-dressing ; it
does not readily imbibe moisture, and therefore is not
much cooled by evaporation ; and being of a very dark
color, it absorbs more solar heat during sunshine than a
lighter surface, while at night the radiation from both is
nearly the same. Diiferent parts of the principal fruit-
wall of the Horticultural Society's Garden at Edinburgh
are built of brick, of freestone, and of greenstone ; and
the plants trained against the greenstone portion have

24 FRUIT A1?D KITCHEN GARDEN.

evinced, by their growth and earlier maturity, that they
enjoy a somewhat superior temperature.

For the preservation of the walls, a coping is neces-
sary ; and it seems a matter of indifference whether it
be formed of stones with a rounded surface, or of flat
pavement, or of tiles. Probably it should not project
more than an inch, though some contend for a larger
measure, on the ground of its preventing to some extent
the radiation of heat from the tree towards the sky in
clear nights, and thus favoring the deposition of dew.
Temporary copings of wood are often adopted, and are
found to answer every good purpose. They are put on in
spring to protect the tender blossom and embryo fruit
from the hoarfrost, and when danger is past^ are re-
moved to give free access to the genial showers and
sunshine of summer and autumn.

Hot Walls. — A considerable proportion of the walls
of every good garden, especially in the north, should be
constructed with flues to supply the means of applying
artificial heat. The additional expense is trifling ; and,
in cold seasons and cold situations, the aid of this species
of wall is nearly indispensable for the regular ripening
of grapes, apricots, and figs, as exemplified at Erskine
House on the Clyde, where, with the assistance of a
little fire-heat, large and high-flavored black Hamburgh
grapes are produced, and where Mayduke cherries
have been ripened at least six weeks before the usual
period. The application of fire-heat for a few weeks in
spring will secure the setting of the fruit, and the same
operation continued for a short time in autumn will suf-
fice to ripen it, and also to prepare the young wood for
the next year. The flues may be about twenty inches
deep, and should make as many horizontal turns as the

II. estate

ESPALIER-RAILS — SOIL. 25

height of the wall will permit. One furnace will be
enough for a surface fiftj feet in length. When the
boundary walls do not furnish room sufficient for the
production of the finer fruits, cross walls are built
athwart the garden from east to west, of the same height
as the side walls, to which they nearly approach. They
are generally fined, and are sometimes furnished, on
their southern aspect, with sloping glazed frames, either
fixed or movable. These cross walls add greatly to the
capabilities of a fruit-garden, and are useful in afford-
ing additional shelter to the small fruits and crops of
vegetables in the culinary quarters.

Uspalier-Mails.SuhsidiaYy to walls as a means of
training fruit-trees, espalier-rails were formerly much
employed, and they still prevail in many parts of Eng-
land. In their simplest form, they are merely a row
of slender stakes of ash or Spanish chestnut, driven
into the ground, and connected by a slight rod or fillet
at top. In some gardens the perpendicular rods are
fastened into two horizontal rails, supported by strong
posts, which are battened into stones. Cast-iron rails
have also been proposed. The framework is some-
times inclined to the horizon, or adapted to a sloping
bank, as in the gardens of the Earl of Selkirk, at St.
Mary's Isle ; where some of the trees, although so
trained more than sixty years ago, are still in a healthy
condition, bearing abundant crops of fruit. In other
cases the framework is placed flat like a table, and,
when there is plenty of room, this proves a good ar-
rangement. Espalier-rails, especially the more elabo-
rate sorts, are expensive and formal; and, therefore, in
many instances, have given place to dwarf standard

" . 3* -

26 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

trees, which are equally productive, and far more ele-
gant in their appearance.

Soil. — It is of great importance that the ground
selected for a garden should be naturally of a good
quality. A hazel-colored loam, of a light or sandy
texture, is well adapted for most crops, whether of
fruits or culinary vegetables. Porosity is indispensable,
not only for- the transmission of moisture, but of air, to
the roots of plants. As it is more easy to render a
light soil sufficiently retentive than to make a tena-
cious clay sufficiently porous, a light soil is preferable
to one which is excessively stiff and heavy. It is ad-
vantageous to possess a variety of soils ; and if the
garden be on a slope", it will often be practicable to
render the upper part . light and dry, while the lower
remains of a heavier and damper nature. The soil
should be good to the depth of two feet, and any neces-
sary additional deepening by manures or otherwise
should not be neglected. The nature of the subsoil
demands particular attention. If it be strongly im-
pregnated with metallic substances, or composed of
cold wet clay, it will prove pernicious to the roots of
fruit-trees, and will scarcely admit of a remedy. A
decomposing rock, or a bed of sandy is preferable.
Perhaps the best of all is a dry bed of clay, overlaying
sandstone, which crops gut within the general inclosure.
If the inferior strata be retentive, and if water lodge in
any part of the garden, draining should be carefully
executed, so as to carry off the superfluous moisture.

Preparatory to the distribution of the several parts
of a garden, it is proper that the ground be trenched to
the depth of two feet at least; but the deeper the better.
In this operation all stones larger than a man's fist are

27

to be taken out, and all roots of trees, and of perennial
weeds, are carefully to be extracted and cleared away.
When the soil is not tolerably good to the depth of two
feet, it will generally be proper to remove a portion of
the subsoil ; and its place should be made up by a pro-
portional quantity of turf or fresh loam from the fields.
If the subsoil be. gravel, and the upper layer sandy, the
additional eartb should be clayey loam, or the scourings
of ditches; but if the original body of soil be of a com-
pact texture, the materials introduced should be mixed
with sand, marl, and other light opening substances.'
"When the Avhole ground has been thus treated, a mode-
rate liming will, in general, be useful. After this, sup-
posing the work to have occupied most of the summer
and autumn, the whole may be' laid up in ridges, and-
left in this state for several months, to expose as great
a surface as possible to the action of the winter's frost.
The draining, trenching, and other operations here
recommended, will unavoidably be attended with consi-
derable expense, and this expense will not immediately
be followed by any perceptible beneficial result. The
lapse of a few years, hov^'ever, will develojD the vast
advantages of such a mode of procedure, which, if it
have been neglected at first, cannot be practiced at a
subsequent period but with indifferent success, and not
without an increase of cost and labor.

Manures^ (^"c. — In enumerating the general append-
ages of gai'dens, it m'ay be proper to say something of
manures ; but we do not consider it necessary to enter
into minute details on this subject. Where there are
extensive melon-grounds, an abundance of stable and
other litter is required ; and this substance, in its
partially decomposed state, as afforded by exhausted

28 FRUIT AXD KITCHEN GARDEN.

hot-beds, supplies a manure well adapted to aid the
processes of vegetation. Decayed leaves, "which are
plentiful where there are extensive pleasure-grounds,
and -which should be carefully swept together, and col-
lected into a heap in the autumnal months, also form
an excellent manure for many purposes. Some prac-
tical men prefer composts to simple dungs, or such
substances as have undergone fermentation. For fruit-
trees, turf from rich pastures, mixed with vegetable
earth, is perhaps the best stimulant that can be applied.
It is questionable whether any sort of trees are per-
manently benefited by the application of crude manures
to their roots; and it is certain that many have been
irremediably injured by this practice. But whatever
caution may be necessary in their use, the prudent
horticulturist will find it expedient to pay constant at-
tention to the collection and accumulation of manures.
Liquid manures, or the drainings of the stable and cow-
house, are valuable, yet too often neglected. To, fix
the ammonia, Professor Liebig recommends their being
passed through a filter, formed of fragments of gypsum,
which should be occasionally renewed. The garden
cannot go on long without manures; for ground which
is exhausted by continual cropping requires to be con-
tinually repaired. A compartment for the preparation
of manure, and storing of vegetable, and heathy, or
other soils, is necessary; and part of it should be
covered with a shed, so that moderately dry earth-may
not be wanting for the early forcing of cucumbers and
melons in the spring, and for similar purposes.

Internal Arrangement. — In gardens of the superior
class, a considerable portion of the north wall, or of
the cross-wall, is covered in front with glazed struc-

INTERNAL ARRANGEMENT. 29

tures, called hot-houses or forcing-houses. To these the
houses for ornamental plants are sometimes attached ;
but the last are more appropriately situate in the flower-
garden; when that forms a separate department. It is
well, however, that everything connected with the forc-
ing, whether of fruits or flow^ers, should be concentrated
in one place. Where there is a melonry, and other
smaller pine-pits,, these should occupy some well-shel-
tered spot in the slip, or on one side of the garden,
and, if possible, in the neighborhood of the stable-yard.
Adjoining to this may be found a suitable site for the
compost ground, in which various kinds of soils may
be kept in store, and composts may be prepared, as
already hinted.

Extensive gardens, in exposed situations, are often
divided into compartments by hedges, so disposed as to
break the force of winds. Where these are required to
be lofty, yet narrow, holly, yew, or beech are preferred ;
but if space be no object, common laurel is one of the
most beautiful plants that can be employe4 for this
purpose. Small hedges may be formed of evergreen
privet, or of tree-box. These subordinate divisions,
though often neglected, are worthy of attention ; for,
in addition to shelter, they furnish shade from the
sun's rays, which, at certain seasons, is peculiarly de-
sirable, and they obviate the chilling eifebts of radiation
to a considerable extent.

The laying out of the area of the garden in walks,
borders, and compartments, may be regulated very
much by the shape of the ground, and the torste of the
owner. In general, a gra,vel walk, six or eight feet
broad, is led quite aroun-d the garden, both within and
without the walls. A walk of similar dimensions is

3Q FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

often constructed in the centre of the garden in the
direction of the glazed houses, and this is sometimes
crossed by another at right angles. At times these
walks are led diagonally from the corners. The space
between the wall and the walk that skirts it is called
the wall-border, and is commonly from fifteen to twenty
feet broad. On the interior of the walk there is usually
another border five or six feet broad, winch is generally
occupied by fruit-trees trained to espalier-rails, or by
dwarf fruit-trees. The middle part of the garden is
divided into rectangular compartments for the raising
of the various culinary crops. These compartments
may be divided by rows of moderate-sized fruit-trees,
or of gooseberry and currant bushes. Standard fruit-
trees, however, soon grow so large as to shade so much
ground, that they cannot be allowed except where the
garden is very large. It is advantageous, to form seve-
ral small beds, in which to cultivate the less bulky
articles, such as basil, sage, tarragon, spearmint, and
thyme, which, in large spaces, are apt to be overlooked
or neglected.

Wall-Borders. — The preparation of borders for fruit-
trees is a matter of the utmost importance, and no pains
should be spared in this essential operation. Where
borders are not in good condition, the care and toil of
the most experienced gardener will avail btit little to-
ward the production of fruit. The first object is effec-
tual draining. The next, if the subsoil be indifferent,
is the confining the trees to the good surface soil, by
the formation of a bottom impervious to their roots.
This is sometimes done with stone-shivers and lime-
rubbish, or with coal-ashes and clay, compacted by
treading with the feet, and beating with the back of a

WALL-BORDERS — ORCHARDS. 31

spade. Loudon recommends successive layers, an inch
thick, of clean gravel, pulverized earth, and then gra-
vel, well watered and firmly compressed by means of
a heavy roller. Good soil to the depth of two feet and
a half, or three feet, is placed over this impervious
bottom. Three-fourths rich loam, and one-fourth light
sandy earth, form a mixture congenial to the gene-
rality of fruit-trees. In selecting the soil, regard may
be had to the particular trees which are to cover dif-
ferent portions of the wall. Thus, a heavy soil may
be allotted to pears and plums ; loam of a medium
character, inclining to be strong, to peaches, nectarines,
and apricots ; and a lighter earth to cherries and figs.
Above all, care should be taken to render the borders
sufficiently rich and substantial. Whilst every skillful
horticulturist may, in various ways, reduce the luxu-
riance of his trees, nothing can compensate for extreme
poverty in the soil. The same principle will dictate
moderation in cropping wall-borders with culinary vege-
tables ; a practice in which gardeners are apt to exceed
from a desire to furnish very early crops of peas, tur-
nips, cahbage, or potatoes. Lettuce, endive, or small
salad plants, do little harm.

07'chards. — Within the limits of the greater propor-
tion of large gardens, such a number of dwarf standard
trees may be planted as will prove sufiicient to aff"ord
a supply of fruit for an ordinary family. W^here, how-
ever, this is not the case, it is desirable that there
should be a separate orchard. A situation similar to
that of a garden, and the same preparatory operations,
are necessary : but a simple hedge will, in most situa-
tions, suffice for a fence. The trees may here be on
free stocks and trained as high standards, and the taller

32 FRUIT GARDEN.

growing pears and apples are best suited for a large
orchard. Thoresbj, in his Diary, under date of March
1702, mentions, as a novelty, an orchard, " kept in the
new order of dwarf trees," evidently intimating that
dwarf standards .were introduced from Holland by the
Prince of Orange at the time of the revolution. When
an additional supply of culinary vegetables is required,
they may be cultivated in the orchard ; and then the
trees should be planted in rows, with considerable in-
tervals between the rows, otherwise the close quincunx
order is preferable. In any circumstances, the trees
should not be choked up with currant and gooseberry
buslies, as is too common in market gardens. A few
plums and cherries are commonly introduced ; and
on the margin may be planted v,^alnuts, chestnuts, fil-
berts, and any others less commpnly cultivated, or the
fruit of which is not much in demand. The whole
should be effectually screened from the prevailing winds,
by rows of forest trees ; at a sufficient distance, how-
ever, to prevent shading by their branches, or the rob-
bing of the soil by their roots.

FRUIT GARDEN.

We shall first direct our"attention to the culture of
hardy fruits, or of such as, in the climate of England,
■do not, to an extensive degree, require the assistance
of artificial heat. But before proceeding to a minute
detail of the management of the different varieties, it
may be proper to attend to some of the operations which
are common to all.

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 33

Preliminary Operations

may be classed under the heads Propagation, Planting,
Training, and Protection of Blossom.

Propagation hy Seed.. — Although fruit-trees are fur-
nished with all the natural means of reproduction, it is
not in general, expedient to attempt to propagate them
by the sowing of seed. This .method is found to be
equally tedious and precarious, requiring the labor of
a good many years, and very rarely producing an exact
copy of the fruits from which the seeds are taken. The
chief reason, of the variation is pretty obvious ; the blos-
soms of different varieties of the same species of fruit
are commonly expanded, at the same period of time, in
the neighborhood of each other, ind the pollen of one
kind is thus extremely apt to be transferred, by the
agency of bees and other insects, to the stigma of ano-
ther kind. If, therefore, we desire to procure unconta-
minated seed of an excellent variety, such as the Rib-
ston apple, we ought to encircle the blossom-bud with
a fine gauze b^g, sufficiently wide to allow the blossom
to expand, and not remove the covering till the fruit be
fairly set. Another source of variation is to be found
in the influence of the stock upon the graft, which is
real, though not easily detected, except in extreme-cases
(such as grafting Scotch' apples upon stocks of the Rus-
s-ian transparent, and finding the former acquiring the
transparent character). To obviate this the tree should
stand on its own bottom,- or be struck from a cutting.
All our present admired' fruits are regarded as seminal
varieties obtained from the wild inhabitants of the fo-
rests ; they have been trained into an artificial condi-
tion, and when sown seem to have a tendency to
4

34 FRUIT GARDEN.

resume their original constitution. In the peach-
orchards of America, for instance, which are planted
with the kernels of choice sorts, there are seldom more
than a few trees affording fruit fit for the table, the
produce of the majority being so worthless that it is
usually employed for feeding hogs. Notwithstanding
this embarrassing circumstance, there are some conside-
rations which render this mode of propagation at once
interesting and important to horticulturists. It is the
only way by which we can procure new kinds to supply
the place of those which are falling into decay ; and to
some extent it affords the means of adapting the more
tender sorts to the rigor of our climate. It is well
known that some of the favorite cider apples of the
seventeenth century have become extinct, and others
are fast verging into decrepitude ; and hence the con-
clusion has been drawn, that all our present fruits, as
they are artificial in their constitution, are also limited
in their duration. Each variety springing from an in-
dividual at first, however extended by grafting or bud-
ding, partakes of the qualities of the individual ; and
where the original is old, there is inherent in the deriva-
tives the tendency to decay incident to old age. It is
assumed that all the individual trees of any given
variety, such as the Golden Pippin, or the Gray Lead-
ington, are in a lax sense equivalent to one individual.
By careful management, the health and life of this com-
posite individual may be prolonged ; and grafts inserted
into vigorous stocks, and nursed in favorable situa-
tions, may long survive their parent tree ; still there is
a sure progress towards extinction, and the only renewal
of the individual, the only true reproduction, is by
sowing seed. It is admitted by those who have paid

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 35

attention to the subject, that this curious principle of
vegetable economy holds true, at least in so far as re-
gards fruit-trees.

The late Mr. Knight, to whom this ingenious theory
is due, conceived the idea of supplying the lack of fine
old varieties by semination. It further occurred to him,
that advantage might be taken of that tendency which
plants exhibit on repeated sowings, to adapt themselves
to the climates in which they are raised, so that trees of
warmer countries may thus become habituated to colder
regions. He therefore devoted much of his attention
to the production of improved and robust varieties; and
his zeal and labors have been rewarded by the Acton
Scott Peach, the Ingestrie and Downton Apples, and
many others, in almost every sort of hardy fruit. Mr.
Knight entertained the opinion, deduced, we may pre-
sume, from experiment, that more is to be expected from
hybrid varieties, than from the mere reproduction of
old kinds; he therefore had recourse to the nice opera-
tion of dusting the pollen of one kind on the pistil of
another. He opened the unexpanded blossom of the
variety destined to be the female parent of the expected
progeny, and with a pair of fine-pointed scissors, cut
away all the stamens, while the anthers were yet un-
ripe, taking care to leave the style and the stigma un-
injured. When the female blossom, thus prepared,
came naturally to expand, the blossoms of the other
variety destined to be the male parent were applied.
Mr. Knight has often remarked in the progeny a strong
prevalence of the constitution and habits of the female
parent : in this country, therefore, in experimenting on
pears, the pollen of the more delicate French kinds,
such as Crasanne, Colmar, and Chaumontelle, should

36 FRUIT GARDEN.

be dusted upon the flowers (always deprived of stamens)
of the Mujrfowl egg, the Grej Achan, the Green Yair,
or others, that are hardj, or of British origin.

As this is a subject of interest, we may state some of
the precautions adopted by Mr. Knight and his follow-
ers, in conducting their experiments. It is, in the first
place, a rule to employ seeds of the finest kinds of fruit,
and to take them from the largest, ripest, and best fla-
vored specimens of the fruit. "When Mr. Knight
washed to procure some of the old apples in a healthy
and renovated state, he prepared stocks of such good
sorts as could be propagated from cuttings ; he planted
them against a south wall in rich soil, and then grafted
them with the kind required. In the following winter
the young, trees were taken up, their roots retrenched,
and then replanted in the same place, by which mode of
treatment they were thrown -into bearing when only two
years old. Not more than a couple of apples. were
allowed to remain on each tree, and these, in conse-
quence, attained a larger size and more -perfect maturity.
The seeds of these apples were then sown, in the hope
of procuring an equally excellent offspring. In the
case of cross-impregnation, every seed, though taken
from the same fruit, produces- a different variety, and
these varieties, as might be anticipated, prove to be of
very various merit. In general those seeds are to be
preferred which are plump and round. An estimate of
the value of the seedling trees. may be formed, even
during the first summer of their growth, from the re-
semblance they bear, in bud and foliage, to highly cul-
tivated and approved trees* The leaves of promising
seedlings improve in character, becoming thicker, round-
er, and more downy every season. Those whose buds

PROPAGATION BY SEEDS. 37

in the annual wood are full and prominent, generally
prove more productive than those whose buds are small
and seemingly shrunk into the bark. Early flowering
and hardy blossoms are desirable characters. It has
been observed, that even after a seedling tree has com-
menced bearing, its fruit has a tendency to improve as
the tree itself acquires vigor, so that, if, in the first
season, there is any considerable promise, a great me-
lioration may be expected in succeeding years.

The slowness with which seedlings reach the bearing
state has been the subject .of complaint among horti-
culturists, and indeed is the principal reason why this
mode of propagation has not been more frequently
practiced. According to Mr. Knight, the pear requires
from twelve to eighteen years to reach the age of pu-
berty; the apple from five to twelve or thirteen years;
the plum or cherry four or five ; the vine three or
four ; the raspberry two years. The peach he found
to bear in two, three, or four years. The period,
however, must depend greatly on the soil, situation,
and mode of culture. In the warm and highly-
manured garden of M. Van Mens at Brussels (called
Pepiniere de la Fidelite, 1816), seedling pear-trees
produced fruit in considerable quantities in the sixth
and seventh summers. The great means of accele-
rating the epoch of bearing seems to be, to make the
trees grow vigorously when young. Crude manures
are indeed to be avoided ; but vegetable earth, and,
above all, a liberal supply of rotted turf, are whole-
some and excellent stimulants. The seed-bed, and
the ground on which the seedlings are transplanted,
should be extremely well worked and comminuted

with the spade, and should not be too much exposed

4*

38 FRUn GARDEN.

to the parching rays of the sun and withering action
of the wind. Great care ought to be taken to prevent
the young plants from becoming stunted. In pruning,
the small twigs in the interior should be removed, so
as to relieve the tree from the bushy appearance which
it is apt to assume. It has been recommended to
transfer cions and buds of promising individuals into
other trees in a bearing state. This is peculiarly ad-
vantageous with respect to the peach and other stone
fruits, as it both hastens the period of puberty, and
economizes the space which must be occupied, especially
where these are on a wall.

Propagation hy Cuttings. — Gooseberries, currants,
figs, vines, and some others, are increased by means of
cuttings. An annuai ^hoot is taken oJBf along with a
thin slice, or Jieel, as it is called, of the former year's
wood, which is found to facilitate the production of
roots. The cuttings are placed firmly in the soil, at
various depths, according to their length, the buds or
eyes which would thus come beneath the surface having
been previously removed. Vines are sometimes pro-
pagated from small pieces of shoots having a single
bud; when they have, to be transmitted to a distance,
an inch in length may suffice. Most of the. codlin
apples may be increased by cuttings ; and even large
branches of those which produce burs may be planted
at once, with success. In all deciduous trees the ope-
ration is most advantageously performed in winter.

Propagation by Layers. — This is not much resorted
to in the fruit garden. It is occasionally employed as
the means of dwarfing trees. "Laying," say^ Pro-
fessor Lindley, " is nothing but striking^ from cuttings
which are still allowed to maintain their connection

PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING. 39

with the mother plant by means of a portion at least
of their stem." The operation is performed by bend-
ing down a branch to the earth, and pinning it there
with hooked pegs. A few inches from the extremity
a notch or slit is. cut upwards, generally from the
insertion of a bud. Sometimes the shoot is pierced
w^ith a number of holes ; a wire is bound round it ; or
even a ring of bark is removed. The object of these
expedients is to retard the descending sap, and thus
promote the formation of radicles, or young roots.
This is also aided by bending the branch upward from
the point at which the roots are wanted ; and the
whole branch, except a few buds at the extremity, is
cover-ed with soil.' The seasons best fitted for these
operations are early in spring and about midsummer,
that is before the, sap begins to flow, and after it has
completely ascended. One whole summer, sometimes
two summers, must elapse before the layers can be. ex-
pected to be fully rooted, or ready to be taken off.

Propagation hy G-7'afting. — When a shoot or young
branch of one tree is inserted into the stem or branch
of another, and, by the influence of vegetation, is made
to coalesce with it, the process is termed grafting. In
this manner apple and pear-trees are commf)nly pro-
pagated; plum and cherry-trees are sometimes also
grafted, but these last are most generally propagated
by budding. Our attention must here be directed to
the stoohs into which the shoots or cions, as they are
called, are inserted ; to the cmns themselves, and to the
mechanical 6>2:>eratzons -employed in grafting.

The stocTcs should be of the same genus to which the
graft belongs, or^ at least, of close afiBnity in natural
family. The following are the principal kinds of

40 FRUIT GARDEN.

stocks, including, by anticipation, such as are used in
budding. For apples^ seedlings of the crab apple,
layers of the doucin or paradise, and of the.codlins,
with cuttings of the bur-knot varieties. For 'pears,
seedlings of the common and wilding pear ; with seed-
lings or layers of quince. For j^^ums, seedlings of
any of the common sorts, particularly the Brussels,
and the Brompton ; also the Bullace plum. For
cherries, seedlings of the small black cherry or gean,
Prunus Avium ; and, for dwarfing, P. Mahaleb. For
apricots, seedlings of the wilding apricot, with the
muscle and Brussels plum. For |?ea(?Aes and necta-
rines, seedlings of the muscle, white pear-plum, and
Damas noir plum, the almond, and the wilding peach.

Stocks are commonly divided into two classes, viz.,
free stocks and dwarfing stocks. The former consist of
Needling plants, which naturally attain to the same size
as the trees from which the cions are taken. The latter
are plants of diminutive growth, either varieties of the
same species, or species of the same genus a& the cion,
which have a tendency to lessen the expansion of the
engrafted tree. The Paradise or doucin is the usual
dwarfing stock for apples, the Quince for pears, the
Bullace for plums, and Prunus Mahaleb (Cerasus Ma-
haleb, or sweet-scented cherry), for cherries. The
nature of the soil in which the grafted trees are des-
tined to grow should also have weight in determining
the choice of stocks. When the garden is naturally
moist, it is proper to graft pears on the quince, because
this plant agrees with a moist soil, and at the same
time the luxuriance thereby produced is checked by the
stock. In France, peaches are commonly budded on
almond stocks, to adapt them to the dry soils of that

PROPAGATION BY GRAPTING. 41

country. The seeds from which stocks are to "be raised
are generally sown in beds in March ; but the germi-
nation of some kinds is promoted by 'placing the seed,
for a time, in damp sand in a green-house. Next
season the seedlings are transplanted into nursery rows,
in which they are allowed to reach the size necessary
for the various forms of fruit-trees hereafter to be
mentioned.

The cion is always a portion of the wood of the pre-
ceding year. As the diseases incident to fruit trees
are apt to be transmitted by this mode of propagation,
it is desirable that the. parents should be as healthy as
possible. In the shy-bearing kinds it has been found
beneficial to select shoots from the fruitful branches.
The cions should be taken off some weeks before they
be wanted, and half-buried in the earth, as it is con-
ducive to success that the stock should, in forwardness
of vegetation, be somewhat in advance of the graft.
During winter, grafts may be transferred from great
distances, as from America, or any part of the Conti-
nent of Europe, if carefully wrapped up in hypnum
moss. If they have been six weeks or two months
separated from the parent plant, they should be grafted
low on- the stock,^and the earth should be ridged up
around them, leaving only one bud of the cion above
ground. Out^of forty cions of new Flemish pears, pro-
cured by the deputation of the Caledonian Horticultural
Society from Brussels and Louvain, in 1817, and treated
in this way, only one failed.*

^ Among these were Beurre Ranz, Marie Louise, Capiaumont,
Napoleon, Delices d'Hardenpont, Passe Colmar, and some others,
AYhich have acquired a high character in this country.

42 FRUIT GARDEN.

Success in grafting depends almost entirely on ac-
curately applying the inner bark of the cion to the inner
"bark of the stock, so that the sap may pass freely from
the one to the other. They are therefore fitted together,
and held fast by a bandage of strips of bast-matting.
To lessen evaporation, a portion of ductile clay is
moulded around the place of junction, and is retained
until it appears, from the development of leaves, that
the operation has succeeded. The best season for
grafting is the month of March ; but it may be com-
menced as soon as the Isap in the stock is fairly in
motion, and may be continued during the first half of
April.

The most usual mode of grafting is cd^Wedi whip graft-
ing, or tongue grafting, a, h. The top of the stock and
the base of the cion are cut ofi" obliquely at correspond-
ing angles, as nearly as can be guessed by the eye ; the
tip of the stock is then cut off horizontally ; next a slit
is made downwards in the centre of the sloping face of
the stock, and a corresponding slit upwards in the cor-
responding face of the cion. The tongue or upper part
of this sloping base is then inserted into tha cleft of
the cion, and so adjusted that the inner bark may unite
neatly and exactly on one side. The junction is then
tied up and covered with clay. Several other methods
may be mentioned, such as cleft-graftiiig, c, d, e, in
which the cion is sloped at the base, and inserted like a
wedge into a cleft in the stock. Side-grafting (Fig. 2),
f,g, which resembles whip-grafting, but is performed on
the side of the stock without heading it down. Orown-
grafting, in which the cions, m, f, are inserted between
the bark and the wood of the stock. Grafting hy ap-

PROPAGATION BY GRAFTING.
Fi.sf. 1.

43

proach, or inarching, resembling whip-grafting, but the
cion h remains attached to the parent plant, till its
union at h and I with the new stock i be complete ; when

Fig. 2.

that portion of the stock above the union may be headed"
down, and the cion at the same time detached from the
parent plant.

44 ' FRUIT GARDEN.

It is evident that the method of j^erforming the
operation may be diversified to a great extent. The
late M; Thouin/of Paris, described, in the Aniiales du
Museum, nearly fifty greffes; but little practical utility
results from such nice distinctions. It is of great im-
portance that the horticulturist should be expert -in
the manipulation of the more common forms, such as
those above enumerated^ An extensive fruit garden
requires a frequent repetition of the operation, in order
to secure proper kinds, and ^productive branches. At
Dalkeith Park, the late Mr.^ Macdonald, .th.e excellent
head-gardener there, was in the practice of annually
inserting, on his established trees, numerous grafts, and
by this means was enabled to overcome the disadvantages
of a somewhat unfavorable- situation, especially in- re-
gard to subsoil, and to obtain abundant crops of large
and beautiful fruit.

Root-grafting is performed in the modes just de-
scribed, only placing the -cion on a piece of root (as
a stalk), of proper thickness, and having fibres and
fibrils attached to it. In the most unfavorable soils,
some sort of fruit-trees thrive better than others ; and
it has been suggested, that by using root-stocks of such
flourishing trees, and grafting other desirable kind& on
them, canker may often be avoided, and the better kinds
of fruit produced. _ * . .

Propagation hy Budding. — Most,kinds of'fruit-trees
maybe propagated by budding; and there are some,
such as peaches and apricots, which can scarcely be
multiplied in any other manner. It consists in remov-
ing a bud with a portion of the bark from o-ne tree, and
inserting it in a slit of the bark of another tree. The
season for performing this operation is in July or

PROPAGATION BY BUDDING.

45

August, when the buds destined for the following year
are completely formed in the axils of the leaves, and
when the portion of bark parts freely from the wood
beneath. The buds to be preferred are those on the
middle of a young shoot. There are many forms of
budding, but that which is simplest, and is generally
practiced in this country, called Shield-budding, need
alone be described. The operator should be provided
with a budding-knife, in which the cutting edge of the
blade is rounded off at the point, and which has a thin
ivory or bone handle, like a paper-folder, for raising the
bark of the stock. A horizontal or transversa incision
is made in the bark quite down to the wood, and from
this incision a perpendicular slit is drawn downwards, to
the extent of perhaps an inch. The slit (Fig. 3) has now
a resemblance to the letter T, q; a bud is then cut from
the tree wished to be propagated, having a portion of
the wood attached to it, so that the whole may be an

inch and a half lor.g, as at s.

The bit of wood is then
gently withdrawn, care being taken th., . the bud ad-
here wholly to the bark or shield, as it is called, as at

46 FRUIT GARDEX.

r, which is the reverse of s. The bark on each side of
the perpendicular slit being cautiously opened with the
handle of the knife, the bud and shield are inserted, as
at t. The upper tip of the shield is cut oflf horizontally,
and brought neatly to fit the bark of the stock at the
transverse incision. Slight ties of moist bast-matting
are then applied. In about a month or six weeks the
ligatures may be taken away, when, if the operation
have been successful, the bud will be fresh and full, and
the shield firmly united to the wood. Next spring a
strong shoot is thrown out, and to this the stock is
headed down in the course of the summer.
- Planting. — After propagation, the next care is to
transfer the young trees to those places, whether in the
open border or against the wall, where they are to re-
main ; and it is of importance that these situations
should be considerately selected; adapting the trees, ac-
cording to th,eir character and qualities, to sites suit-
able in respect of ^oil, shelter, and aspect. Planting
ma.y be performed at any time in the beginning of win-
ter, or in the early spring months ; but it is considered
that the most advantageous seasons are iinmediately
after the fall of the leaf in autumn, and before the as-
cent of the sap in spring. The trees should be cau-
tiously lifted from the nursery lines, carefully guarding
against the. 'mutilation or bruising of the roots; andy
to prevent the desiccation of the fibres, they should be
planted as soon as possible after being lifted. When
they have to be carried to a distance, the roots should
be enveloped in damp hypnum-moss. In the ground,
which. is presumed to have been previously trenched or
otherwise prepared, pits or holes are formed, and the

PLANTING. 47

soil is finely pulverized ; and in the&^p the trees are
placed, their roots being spread out and intermingled
with the earth. Shallow planting is strongly recom-
mended; two or three inches of soil bein^ in general a
sufficient covering. The doucin or French paradise
stocks are preferable for this reason, that they throw
out delicate fibres which readily" spread along the sur-
face, instead of bundles of hard roots which generally
characterize crab stocks. On filling up the hole, a sur-
face of at least an equal size is mulched, that is, covered
with dung or litter, so as to restrain evaporation, and
preserve moisture. In the. case of wall-trees, a space
of five or six inches is usually left between the stem at
the insertion of the roots and the wall, to allow for the
effects of growth. Young standard trees are tied to
stakes, to prevent their roots being ruptured -by the
wind-waving of the stems. During the dry weather of
the first summer, the trees should be watered from
time to time as occasion may require.

, The selection and distribution of the different kinds
of fruit-trees is an important and interesting point in
the formation of- a garden. Regard must necessarily
be had to local situation and climate, as the selection
ought manifestly to be different for a garden in the
south-west of England, and for one in Yorkshire or in
Scotland. The finer varieties of French and Flemish
pears require and deserve a good aspect, as also the
early sorts of cherries. The later cherries, and the
generality of plums, succeed very well either oh an east
or west aspect, in Scotland : and here the mulberry re-,
quires the protection of a wall, and several of the finer
apples do not arrive at perfection without it.

The wall- trees which are intended to be permanent

48 FRUIT GARDEN.

are called dwarf s^ from their being grafted near the
ground. Between each of these, trees with tall stems,
called riders in Scotland, are planted as temporary oc-
cupants of the upper part of the wall. The riders
should always be five or six years trained in the nur-
sery, in order that when they are planted out they may
come into bearing as speedily as possible. The dis-
tance at which the permanent trees are planted is to be
regulated by the known mode of growth of the different
sorts, and by the height of the wall. When the walls
are about twelve feet high, the following average dis-
tances have been recommended: — For vines, 10 or 12
feet; peach and nectarine-trees, from 15 to 20 feet;
fig-trees, 20 feet at least; apricots, from 15 to 24 feet;
plums and cherries, from 15 to 20 feet ; pear-trees, 20
feet if on quince stocks, and 30 feet when on free stocks;
apple-trees, 12 feet if on paradise stocks, and 15 to 25
feet when on free stocks. Where the walls are only
seven or eight feet high, the distance should be increased
by nearly one-fourth, as in this case the want of height
must be compensated by greater breadth.

Apples and pears make the best espalier rail-trees,
especially in Scotland. These should be of the more
robust sorts, and should be planted at the distance of
15 or 20 feet. Cherries and plums are sometimes in-
troduced into the espalier-rail row, but these succeed in
those situations only where they would do equally well
or better as standards.

In many excellent gardens, dwarf standards are pre-
ferred to espalier rail-trees. They are placed along the
inner borders at 8 or 10 feet apart. When proper at-
tention is paid to such trees, the effect is very pleasing,
each being in itself a handsome object, and generally

TEAINING OF STANDARDS. 49

clothed with fine fruit. Where the situation is warm,
and the climate favorable, a few of such of the fin.er
pear-trees as have hardy blossoms should be planted
out in this form. Though they may fail to ripen their
fruit in some seasons, they will often add greatly to the
resources of the fruit-room, their produce being fre-
quently superior in flavor to the pears grown against
walls.

Training. — Two functions belong to training — that,
namely, which modifies the form of the trees, and that
W'hich regulates the bearing -^Vood, and consequently
the supply of blossom. The latter, more accurately
termed pruning, being of a varied character, adapted
to the habits of the difi'erent kinds of fruit-trees, will
more properly fait to be considered when treating of the
peach, pear, plum, &:c. ; at present we shall make a few-
remarks on the former. The essential properties of
training are, that it should be simple, not requiring fre-
quent amputation of large branches ; that it should be
appropriate to the growth of the tree, and such as to
promote the production of fruit. The knife is the great
instrument in training, and vrhoever can wield it skil-
fully will have a perfect command over his trees: at-
the same time, it tnay be laid down as- a inaxim, that
it should be used with some degree of reserve, as no-
thing is more prejudicial to the health and fruitfulness
of all sorts of trees than severe and injudicious cut-
ting.

Training of Standards. — Orchard-trees ai'e generally
worked in the nurseries with stems five or six feet high.
All that is ^necessary in pruning trees of this sort, is
merely to cut out thabranches which cross or press upon
one another. Bushy heads should be thinned out, and

50

FRUIT GARDEN.

those which are too lax cut back. Three or four lead-
ing branches may be selected, to pass ere long into
boughs, and form a handsome skeleton for the tree ; but
it is useless to be over-nice in this matter, as these
branches will soon grow beyond the power or regula-
tion of the pruner,. and of any artificial system which
he may adopt. Dwarf standards being more accessible,
are more under the dominion of training. When worked
on paradise stocks, they maybe kept not much superior
in size to gooseberry bushes, and in a state of abundant
fruitfulness. The more fanciful Dutch modes of train-
ing apple-trees in the cup and the ball fashion, and after
many other curious devices, have never been relished in
Britain. In this country they are generally allowed
to grow en huisson, that is, as bushes. For pears, the
French forms, en pyramide^ or pyramid shape (Fig. 4),
and en qirenouille, or distaff shaped (Fig. 5), are justly
gaining ground.

Fig 4. Fig. 5.

BRARY.

Dioisioii of Horkiculhire

TRAINING. 51

Training of Espalier Rail-Trees. — The usual form is
the horizontal ; that is, from an upright stem, branches
are led right and left along the rails. Some prefer
having two stems, thus diverting the upright current of
the sap into two channels, and producing a somewhat
lower growth, which is favorable to fruitfulness. Es-
palier rail-trees have a uniform tendency to throw out
a luxuriant crop of upright summer shoots ; and this is
to be prevented by disbudding, or rubbing off numerous
buds, as they appear from April till June. Close well-
placed spurs are encouraged, as from these the fruit is
expected.

Training of Wall- Trees. — A fruit-tree planted against
a wall is evidently in a constrained and artificial situa-
tion, from which it makes continual efforts to escape.
Much attention is necessary to repress this tendency,
which, were it permitted to act, would disfigure the tree,
and neutralize the advantages of a wall, without im-
parting in their place the freedom of a standard in the
open ground. To be successful, the operator should
be acquainted with the theory of vegetation, should
study the mode of growth in different trees, and, above
all, remember the purpose of all training, viz., the elicit-
ing of bearing wood.

One great difficulty is to preserve equilibrium in the
growth of the several parts of the same tree-: for the at-
tainment of this object, excellent hints are to be found
in the Pomone. Francais : we shall mention only two
or three. A shoot w^ill grow more vigorously whilst
waving in the air than when nailed close to the wall ;
a weak shoot should therefore be left free, whilst a
stronger antagonist should be restrained. A shoot di-
verging only slightly from the perpendicular will, other

52

FRUIT GARDEN.

things being equal, obtain a more copious supply of sap
than one that is laid- out horizontally, or is deflected
dDwnwards. A luxuriant shoot may be retarded for
some time, by having its tender extremity pinched off,
and a weaker brother thus allowed to overtake it. By
these and other expedients, which will suggest them-
selves to an attentive horticulturist, and by the prudent
use of theknife, it will be easy to execute the following
forms, which, on account of their simplicity and general
excellence, w^e select out of many to be found detailed
in works on gardening.

The liorizontal farm (Fig. 6) has long been a favor-
ite in this country, having been strongly recommended
in the excellent work of Mr. Hitt.* There is one
principal ascending stem, from which the branches
dfepart -at right-angles, at intervals often inches or a foot.
In order to produce this form, the vertical shoot is, in

Fig. 6.

trees of ordinary vigor, cut back every winter to within
fourteen inches of the highest pair of branches ; a num-

^ Treatise on Fruit-Trees^ by Thomas Hitt. .8yo. 1756.

TRAINING.

53

ber of shoots are produced in the beginning of each sum-
mer, out of which three are selected: one is trained in
the original direction of the stem, and one on each side
of it, parallel to the base of the wall. By pinching off
the point of the leading shoot about midsummer, another
pair may be obtained in autumn. In luxuriant trees,
the vertical shoot may be left two feet in length, by
which means, and by summer pruning, four pairs of
branches may sometimes be added in one season. The
great object, at first, ought to be to draw the stem up-
w^ards : when it has reached the top of the wall, it is
made to divaricate into two, and the tree, thus completed
as to its height, is henceforth suffered to increase in
breadth only. Horizontal training is best adapted to
those trees which produce strong shoots, as the Ribston
Pippin apple, or the Gansel's Bergamot pear. For the
more twiggy kinds, the form represented in Fig. 7 is
more suitable. In this the horizontal branches are
eighteen or twenty inches distant, and the small shoots

Fi-; 7.

Fffrmm
wm

TTTTTfWm

are trained in between them, either on both sides, as
below letter a in the figure, or on the under side and

54

FRUIT GARDEN.

downwards as below h. This last- is an excellent me-
thod of reclaiming neglected trees of this description.
Every alternate branch being taken away, and the spurs
cut off, the young shoots are trained in, and . soon pro-
duce good fruit. It is rather singuh,T, that the late M.
Thouin, in his account of the Ecole cVITorticulture
practique du Museum^ classes the horizontal form among
les tallies lieteroclites^ and says, that, in consequence of
its invariably producing' a tete de saule, that is, a hedge
of young shoots at the' top, it has been long since aban-
doned. From this remark, we cannot help drawing the
conclusion, that in France, th.e theory of training must
be in advance of the practice.

The other principal form is called /aw-training. In
this there is no .leading stem, and the branches are ar-
ranged somewhat like the spokes of a fan. Fig. 8 re-
presents this shape as it commonly occurs in gardens.
In the case of apple and pear-trees, this mode, though
frequently adopted, is not superior, perhaps not even

Fig. 8.

equal, to the horizontal configijrafion : it is evident,
that when the branches reach the top of the wall, where

TRAINING.

55

they must be cut short, a tete de satdc is inevitable. It
would be better to adopt the modification of the fan
shape used for stone fruits (Fig. 9); to establish a cer-

Fii

tain number of mother branches, ^nd on these to form
a series of subordinate members, chiefly composed of
bearing wood. The mother bran,ches Or limbs should
not be numerous, but well marked, equal in strength,
and regularly disposed'. The side hranches should be
pretty abundant, short, and not so vigorous as to rival
the leading members. To insure regularity, training
should commence with maiden plants, or such as have
only one year's growth from the graft ; leaders of equal
strength should be selected, and encouraged to grow
out longitudinally as much as possible, and all crowding
among the inferior shoots should be prevented* In
riders, this form passes into the stellar arrangement.
The French have made considerable improvements in
this mode of training, some of which will be noticed
under the article Peach.

Intermediate between horizontal and fan-training is
the haJf-fan, described in the first volume of the Cale-

5Q FRUIT GARDEN.

donian Horticultural Society's Memoirs, by Mr. Smith,
gardener at Hopetoun-House, and practiced by him
with great success. It is nearly allied to the horizon-
tal form, but the branches form an acute angle with the
stem, and this disposition is supposed to favor the equal
distribution of the sap. In the winter pruning, three
and sometimes four central branches are cut back ; the
shoots which arise from these are arranged in the fan
order, and, as they elongate, are gradually brought into
the horizontal position. The tree is finished at top as
in the horizontal form. Sometimes, as in Fig. 10, two
vertical stems are adopted. For vigorous trees, this
figure seems to combine the advantages of both the
foregoing varieties.

Fig. 10.

>-'--- -^^^.^^T^^^^Sd i j'^^^^^^Zl.

'..' ^ ^. J) i:^-^ ^''^ '"-^j 1 i , ^^^=5^=^=^%=^^^:^:,^--^-

The choice of particular modes of training is too often
determined by mere fashionable prejudice, which leads
to the application of the same form to all sorts of trees.
Thus the French are apt to reduce everything to the
fan system, while some English horticulturists are in-
clined to force trees of the most rambling growth into
the pillory of a horizontal arrangement. Such a uni-

TRAINING. 57

formit J cannot possibly be in accordance with nature.
The enlightened cultivator will employ. various forms,
and will determine for himself which is the most appro-
priate, not only for every species, but even for each par-
ticular variety of fruit-tree. By attentive observation,
and rational experiment, more knowledge in this depart-
-jment may be attained in a few years than by a whole
life spent in routine practice.

As supplementary to the preceding remarks on train-
ing, some of the expedients for inducing a state of fruit-
fulness in trees may be mentioned. Of these, the most
common is root-pruning, or the cutting back of the roots
to within three or four feet of the stem ; an operation
which is generally found efficacious when barrenness
proceeds from over-luxuriance and too copious a supply
of sap. Another is, the lifting up of the roots care-
fully, spreading them out on the surface, and covering
them, with a layer of fresh soil, forming a slight mound,
at the same time all naked or fibreless roots being cut
out. To attain the same end, recourse is sometimes had
to ringing the branches or stem, that is, removing a
narrow portion of the bark, so as to produce the appear-
ance of an annular incision. The trees, it is said, are
thereby not only rendered productive, but the quality of
the fruit is at the same time apparently improved. The
advantage is considered as depending on the obstruction
given to the descent of the sap, and it being thus more
copiously afforded, in its elaborated state, for the supply
of the buds. The ring should therefore be made in
spring, and of such a width that the bark may remain
separated for the season. It ought to be observed,
however, that none of the stoned fruit-trees are bene-
fited by ringing. Analogous to this practice is decor-
6

58 FRUIT GARDEN".

tication, or the removing of the old cracked bark from
the stems of apple and pear-trees, a practice warmly
recommended by the late Mr. Lyon of Edinburgh, and
some other cultivators, but -which has never been exten-
sively adopted. Sometimes barrenness proceeds from
defect of climate and poverty of soil ; in which case a
more sheltered situation and more generous treatment
are the most effectual remedies. Fruit-trees should
never, if possible, be allowed to become stunted ; for in
this state they produce only worthless fruit, and acquire
a habit which scarcely admits of melioration.

Protection of Blossom. — In our variable climate, and
particularly in the northern and eastern parts of the
country, it is very desirable that the horticulturist should
be provided with the means of defending the blossom of
his fruit-trees from the Jate frosts in spring. For this
purpose some cultivators partially cover their walls
with branches of spruce-ffr or beech, or the fronds of the
common hraken fern [Pteris aquilina)^ fastened firmly
by several points of attachment, to prevent rubbing.
Others recommend frames covered with bunting, osna-
burgh or similar light fabrics, set in a sloping position
in front of the trees. Screens formed of reeds have
been used, and nettings of worsted-yarn or of straw-
ropes have been employed with good effect. Whatever
contrivance serves to interrupt radiation, though it may
not keep the temperature much above freezing, will be
found sufficient. Standard fruit-trees must be left to
their fate, and, indeed, from the lateness of their flower-
ing, they are generally more injured by blight, and by
drenching rains, which wash away the pollen of the
flowers, than by the direct effects of cold. In not a
few cases it is found very useful to promote the setting

CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS. 59

of blossom, by directly applying it to pollen from flowers
of some other tree of the same species.

Pi'otection of Fruit. — If -the blossom requires to be
guarded, equally so does the fruit,, from the moment it
begins to color till it be plucked for the table. Wasps
and other insect enemies are often ensnared by means of
phials half filled with watery syrup, and hung upon the
trees. Coverings of netting are employed to protect
against the ravages of small birds: and this is preferable
to shooting them ; for among these feathered enemies
it must be confessed with r-egret that not only the en-
gaging Robin Redbreast- but the melodious Blackbird
fall to be numbered.

CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS.

In proceeding to treat of the more special culture of
the inmates of a British fruit garden, we shall begin
with the more tender ; but for details regarding these,
reference may, to a considerable extent, be made to the
Forcing department, in which alone many of the finer
fruits can be perfected. The nomenclature of the numer
rous varieties of the principal fruits is still in an unc^ir-
tain and unsatisfactory state. Mr. Thompson, of the
Horticultural Society's Garden at Chiswick, has, how-
ever, with much discrimination and judgment, settled
the synonymes of many of those chiefly cultivated in
our gardens ; and we shall, therefore (when the con-
trary is not intimated), adopt the names employed in
the London Horticultural Society's Fruit Catalogue.

The Grape Vine ( Vitis 'Cinifera) can scarcely be said
to be a hr^rdy fruit in our climate. In every case it re-

60 FRUIT (Ur.DEN.

quires a good aspect; and north of York, a crop of des-
sert ^vd^^Q^ cannot be expected without the aid of a hot
wair. In the extreme south-west districts of England,
indeed, grapes fit for the manufacture of wine, perhaps
equal in quality to those in the north of France, might
be produced on dwarf standards; and there is abundant
historical evidence that productive vineyards once ex-
isted in that part of the country.

In the London Horticultural Society's Catalogue,
182 varieties of grapes are enumerated. Some of those,
however, have not as yet been well ascertained ; some
are pronounced indifferent, and others worthless. We
shall name only a few of those most deserving the at-
tention of the cultivator.

31illers Burgundy. — This sort is distinguished by
the hoary bubescence of its leaves. It is a black grape,
with short compact clusters, small round berries, and
clear, high-flavored juice. It is hardy, ripening com-
pletely on a south wall.

Black i>a???asc?^s.^Bunches large, with round berries
and exquisitely sweet juice. This desirable late variety
does not set well, and the bunches are improved by the
blossom being dusted with the pollen of some hardy
kind.

FranJcenthaL — A valuable grape, nearly allied to the
Black Hamburgh. Bunches moderate in size, berries
obovate, flavor excellent. Although this is the kind
which is commonly trained against the open wall in
Holland, it seems to require a warm vinery in Scotland.

Frontignan (or Frontignac). — Several varieties under
this appellation,, and distinguished by the names of black
(or purple 'Constantia),'^ri.22?y, red, and \hQwJiite, arc
mentioned by horicultural writers. They vary in color

GRAPE-VINE. 61

and. form of the cluster. The berties are round, the
skin thick, and the juice of a rich muscat flavor. They
are all of high excellence. The white (often called white
Constantia) is the most early.

Black G-ihraltar^ or Red Hamhurgh of Lindley. —
This is an excellent grape, with large clusters and large
dark red berries, full of a sweet juice.

Black Hamhurgh, — This is a well-known grape, of
great value, and perhaps more generally cultivated for
the dessert in this country than any other sort. It
ought to be in every collection.

Wilmofs JVew Hamburgh, with remarkably large
berries, very firm in flesh ; but the bunches small and
loose, and not shouldered.

Black Lomhardy, or West's St. Peter s. — Bunches
large, berries round, skin thin, with a sweet flavor;
an excellent late sort. The fruit will hang on the vines
till March.

Royal Ifuscadine, of the L. Hort. Cat. or White
Muscadine of Lindley. The Chasselas of Paris. This,
though not a first-rate grape, comes early, and is a fa-
vorite with many. Bunches large, berries white, round,
with rich and sweet juice.

3Iuscat of Alexandria. — Bunches long, and also
broad-shouldered, berries white and oval, with a deli-
cious, very rich, muscat flavor ; wood reddish-brown ;
leaf large and pendulous. This most admirable variety
requires a high temperature, and should properly have
a small vinery for itself.

The Canon Hall Muscat is a variety of the former ;
similar in general appearance, but with larger leaves ;
cluster setting thinner and more regularly, berries

6*

62 FRUiT GARDEN.

rather longer and larger, flesh less firm, but rich fla-
vored, and ripening fully a fortnight earlier.
; Pitmaston White Cluster. — This excellent variety
sprang from a seed of the small black cluster grape.
The bunch is compact ; the berry is round, when ripe
of an amber color, bronzed with russet on one side.
It comes to perfection on the open wall in England,
and is also well suited for forcing.

White Tohay. — ^The bunch is small, and not shoul-
dered ; the berries of a rich vinous flavor ; wood white ;
leaf stiff and downy.

Large White Siveetivater. — Bunch loose, berries
round, flavor sweet. It ripens early, generally from
the middle to the end of September; and in the south
of England it succeeds against the open wall. The
bunches should be allowed to hang until they be per-
fectly ripe, when the berries acquire a slight russet
color. It has long been a favorite grape.

Tlte Grove-End Sweetvmter is early, and of good
quality ; the berries having a rich vinous flavor. It
is the better for artificial impregnation.

Stilhvard's Siveetwater or Chasselas precoce is a re-
cent variety of considerable merit. It is desirable for
earlinesg, and the bunches possess the property of
keeping good on the plant for two or three months
after the berries are ripe.

Black Morillon or Burgundy Grape, or Small Black
Cluster, ripens in England against a south wall.

The Black Prince is of easy cultivation, and the
berries are of a pleasant flavor.

The Zante, or Corinth Grape, is often called Zante
Currant. In general it is a shy bearer, and the berries
are small ; but Mr. Gow, gardener at Tulliallan, hav-

GRAPE-VINE. 63

ing fertilized some bunches with the pollen of the Black
Haml^urgh, found that they set more, freely, and that
the berries were larger and better flavored; a hint
worth attending to in other cases.

The Verdelho has loose bunches, berries of a green-
ish-yellow color, small, oval, numerous; when fully
ripe, of a rich saccharine flavor. It is the principal
grape cultivated in Maderia for making the celebrated
wine of that island. The plant grows vigorously ; and
Mr. Knight has observed of it that the same degree
of shade which would render the greater number of
sorts wholly unproductive, .scarcely affects the fertility
of this ; -a convenient property, which adapts it for
the back wall of a glazed-house. The same horti-
culturist mentions another economical property of the
verdelho : it bears plentifully when planted m very
small pots ; a few pots of it may therefore be intro-
duced amang green-house plants in early spring ; the
almost leafless -stems do no injury till the end of May,
when some of the more hardy ornamental plants can
be set abroad ; and during the warm months which
follow, when the green-house is otherwise empty, abun-
'dant crops of these small grapes may be procured.

The -Usperlone, or Turner''s Early Black, has the
bunches large and .shouldered, not unlike those of the
Black Hamburgh. The berries are of a fine dark color,
with a bluish farina or bloom ; the pulp adheres to the
skin-; and though neither highly flavored nor melting,
it is very pleasant. This grape ripens on the open wall
near London.

The Syrian Grrape is remarkable for the extraordi-
nary size and beauty of its bunches ; it is a late variety,
and the berries are sweet and not without flavor when

64: FRUIT GARDEN.

properly ripened. This is generally regarded as the
kind produced in the valley of Eshcol, a cluster of
which was brought to the camp of Israel, swung on
a staff between two of the spies ; not probably on ac-
count of its weight, but (as Dr. Clark observes) to pre-
vent the berries from being bruised. '^~

In addition to the above, the editor of the Lond.
Hort. Cat. mentions the following as excellent -grapes :
Ciotat, or Parsley-leaved ; Genuine Tokay, or White
Morillon ; ' Chasselas musque, an early sort with a rich
musky flavor ; Elford ; Lunel ; Mignonne White Clus-
ter ; Black Morocco, requiring a strong' heat to cause
it to set; Black Muscadine; Petersburgh ; Raisin des
Carmes ; and Black Tripoli.

For an ordinary vinery, the following may be recom-
mended : Black Hamburgh, Red Hamburgh, Black
Prontignan, Frankenthal, St. Jeter's, White Prontig-
nan. White Hamburgh, and White Tokay. For a stove
or warm vinery maybe particularized the Black Damas-
cus, which sets shyly unless aided. Black Raisin, Grizzly
Frontignan, Black Tripoli, Muscat of Alexandria, Ca-
nonhall Muscat, and Syrian. For training against the
rafters of a green-house, the Black Prince, Verdelho,
Esperione, and Black Cluster, are perhaps among the
best.

The kinds commonly grown agains.t the open wall
in England are the Miller Burgundy, Esperione, White
Muscadine, White Sweetwater, Early Black, Grove End,
and Pitmaston White Cluster. In the north of Eng-

^ Bunches of the Syrian Grape have been raised in Syria
weighing 401bs. ; but in tbfe grape-houses of Europe and Ame-
rica they have seldom been brought to weigh over lOlbs. to
IGlbs.

r,RAPE-VINE. 65

laii-d, and in the south of Scotland, vines always re-
quire hot walls. Against a hot wall, at Erskine House,
on the Clyde, Black Hamburgh grapes are -every year
proddced equal in size and flavor to those of the viiiery
or hot-house. In some gardens, an entire wall is dedi-
cated to vines, but, in general, they occupy only the
interstices between other trees. Mr. Williams, of Pit-
maston, trained a vine under the coping of a wall to the
extent of fifty feet, and bent down the shoots at inter-
vals to fill up the spaces between the fruit-trees, and
he found that the grapes were better the farther, they
were distant from the main stem and root. The cul-
ture of grapes on a wall does not differ materially
from that practiced in' a moderately worked vinery ;
we shall therefore defer any farther observations till
we resume the subject in treating of the forcing depart-
ment.

Mr. Mearns has, of late, recommended the culture of
grape-vines in flower-pots, by coiling the lower part of
the stems in the pots. When the plants can be sub-
jected to a pretty high temperature, with bottom-heat,
some fine bunches may thus be procured from a very
small stove, without materially interfering with orna-
mental exotics kept in the same place.

These are the varieties of grapes which are consider-
ed most deserving of attention in England, where the
culture of the vine is limited to the sheltered garden,-
and generally to the Grape-House or Vinery. Such,
however, is the success with which skill can obviate the
defects" of natural climate, that fruit of larger size and
better flavor is produced in English graperies than can
• be found in even the most highly favored climates
where the fruit ripens in the open air. By the skillful

66 FRUIT GARDEN.

application of artificial heat, ripe grapes in great per-
fection are produced in .many, vineries -during every
mantli in the year, in endless succession.

The productiveness of the grape-vine may be increas-
ed to an almost unlimited extent, an example of which
is furnished in the much celebrated Black Hamburg vine
in the grapery attached to the royal gardens at Hamp-
ton Court, which, in a single season, has produced 2200
bunches averaging a pound each, making in all nearly
a ton.* Another vine in England, at Valentine in
Essex, has produced 2000 bunches of nearly the same
average weight. It occupies above 147 square yards,
W'hilst that at Hampton Court is spread over 160 square
yards, one of its branches measuring 114 feet in length.
Where the climate and other circumstances are favor-
able, the age attained by grape-vines is almost unlimit-
ed. Pliny mentions one 600 years old and still bearing
in his time.

Most of those who have attempted the cultivation in
the United States of foreign grapes- i?i the open air
have met with discouraging results. The White Sweet-
water and Black Hamburg are almost the only varie-
ties which will give crops in the open air in the Southern
States, or in sheltered situations and gardens in the
city of Philadelphia.

Dr. B. T. Underbill, of New York, states that after
having sunk thousands of dollars in attempts to raise
the best foreign varieties of grapes in the open air, he
has abandoned the project as visionary, and entirely

* This vine is sometimes called even in books sl Bed Hamburg.
But there is, in fact, no such particular variety of grape as the
lied Hamburg, that so called being strictly the Black Hamburg
imperfectly ripened.

GRAPE-VINE. - 67

devoted his attention to the native kinds. An inte-
resting communication from him on this subject may
be found in the Albany Ciiltivator for January, 18435
in which he says that in the vicinity of New York,
south of the highlands of the Hudson, he finds that
the Isabella grape ripens quite as w«ll when planted in
a level field, protected from the north and west winds
by woods or hedges, as on declivities. "Several of
my vineyards," he observes, "are thus located, and, as
far as I can perceive, the fruit ripens at about the
same time, and is of the same quality as those planted
on steep side-hills. I think, however, that north of
the highlands, side-hills would be preferable.",

A plan adopted by Mr. William Wilson, of Cler-
mont, near Philadelphia, to secure his foreign grape-
vines, grown in the open air, against the severe frosts
of American winters, is well deserving of attention.
The vines are left their whole length after they get
their fall trimming in October, and in November. are
let down from their supports, laid on the ground at full
length, fastened down Avith pins, and covered lightly
with earth. In this state they are left all winter. In
April, as soon as the weather will permit, they are
uncovered, and left lying on the ground ten or twelve
days. About th^ first of May, 'they are trained' to
their stakes or poles, of the length of ten feet and
upwards. By the middle of June the stakes are en-
tirely covered by new shoots of the vine, and with
plenty of fruit, which ripens in September. Before
adopting this plan, Mr. AVilson says his fruit was fre-
quently-blasted and mildewed, but by its aid he has
since succeeded in training vines twenty or thirty feet
long, some of which ran up fruit-trees adjacent, whilst

68 • FRUIT GARDEN.

others, after attaining eight or ten feet in height,, were
stretched horizontally. He seldom gathered fruit
within three or four feet of the ground, which was kept
cultivated by frequent hoeing, and during ten years
never applied manure.

The main source of destruction to foreign grape-vines
in the American climate appears to be not so much in
the severity of the winter frosts as in the sudden return
of cold spells. Foreign vines seem to commence the
free circulation of their sap earlier than the native
kinds, and thus are exposed to having their circulating
juices frozen, to the certain destruction of the vines.

In England the Vine-culture is limited to the pro-
duction of a costly luxury for the tables of the wealthy.
But in the United States the raising of the grape has
for its object not only a supply of wholesome and deli-
cious fruit for eating, but for the production of wine. It
is, however, only within the last year or two that the ef-
forts of those who have devoted attention to wine-making
have met with decided and even brilliant success, and
that the Cincinnati wine-makers have demonstrated the
practicability of producing an American wine that will
bear competition with some of the best of Europe.

Among native American grapes yet brought into suc-
cessful cultivation, the Isabella, as has been already
stated, is the most hardy, and may be raised in the open
air as far north as the St. Lawrence. It bears long, ta-
pering bunches, with few shoulders, the berries being
oval, jet-black, and covered with a fine bloom or white
flour. The skin is thick, the flesh very sweet, though a
little pulpy, with a slight musky flavor. The vine is of
a brownish-red color, and very strong, the leaves being
large and three-lobed, coated underneath with white

GRAPE-VINE. 69

down. The wine made from it is sometimes good, re-
sembling light Madeira.

The Qataivha bears bunches rather regularly formed,
with a few shoulders. The berries are round and of a
coppery-red color when ripe. The flesh is pulpy, though
rather juicy, and the taste sweet, with a slight musky
flavor. The leaves much resemble those of the Isabella,
having a white down beneath, but being of a paler
green and more reflexed. Whilst it is perhaps the best
native table-grape, it stands at present as the unrivaled
wine-grape of the United States. Mr. Longworth, of
Cincinnati, has offered $500 reward to any one who
will produce a better native variety. Several new
seedlings of merit have been brought forward, none of
which, however, have proved equal to the original
Catawba. Mr. L. thinks the commefh Fox grape the
parent of the Catawba. The wine produced from this
grape is described as varying from a clear water-color
to straw-color and pink, with a fine fruity flavor, and
slightly musky rich aroma. By mixing the produce of
the new vintage with that of an old, half and half, a supe-
rior sparkling wine is made, much resembling sparkling
Moselle. It also makes a still wine resembling a dry
hock. If Catawba grapes be thoroughly ripened, no
sugar will, be required in making the wine, whilst wine
rbade from the Isabella, resembling a light Madeira,
requires for the proper promotion of its fermentation
the addition of from eighteen to twenty -four ounces of
sugar to each gallon of juice, or "must."

The Powell Grape, called also the Alexandria, and

Bland — in compliment to Mr. Bland of Alexandria,

Ya., who first introduced it — is considered a hybrid, or

cross between the Isabella and B. Hambura'. It bears

7

70 FRUIT GARDEN.

short bunches, having, when of good size, two or three
shoulders. The berries are round and of a pale red
color,, with pulpy flesh of a sweetish, sub-acid taste,
and a little of the musky or fox-grape flavor and xjha-
racter. The leaves are a pale-green underneath, and
rounder than those of the Isabella or Catawba.

The Scuppernong of the Southern States enjoys great
celebrity, both for its fruit and wine-making qualities.
In North Carolina it thrives well, and bears most luxu-
riantly. Its origin is doubtful. The berries are very
large and roundish, and grow on separate stems, like
cherries. There are two kinds, called the white and
black, from the color of the fruit. The light-colored
are generally preferred.

The Elsenhurg is a native of New Jersey, having
small bunches, compact and shouldered. The berries
are small, round, jet black, with a thin skin, no pulp,
sweet, and well-flavored. The wood is slender and
very hardy, the leaves five-lobed- and thick.

The Missouri is a native variety described by Mr.
Buchanan, of Cincinnati, as bearing bunches . loose
and of medium size, with berries black, without pulp,
having a sweet and agreeable flavor. He represents it
as making an excellent wine, somewhat resembling
Madeira.

Minor 8 Seedling is a new grape of the Fox family.
The bunches are of moderate size, berries large, pulpy,
musky, and rich flavored, and the fruit not subject to
rot. The wine is said to be too musky and high
flavored to be pleasant,, but may do to mingle with
other kinds, and thus the grape may be found valuable
for cultivation.

The White Cataivla^ a seedling from the Catawba, has

GRAPE-VINE. 71

been raised, but it proves lir inferior to the parent.
It has bunches of medium size, and shouldered, ber-
ries white, large; round and pulpy, tasting much like
the fox grape.

The Mammoth Catawba is another new seedling, re-
sembling tbe Catawba in color, but not so well flavored.
Th^ bunches are large, shouldered, the berries very
large, round, pulpy, and in some seasons subject to fall
off before ripening.

The Oliio, or Cigar-hox Grape, has been brought into
notice by Mr. Long worth, of Cincinnati, as a fine table
grape. Its bunches are long, compact, tapering, and
ahouldered, the berries being ^mall, black, thin- skinned,
sweet, and without pulp. Seeds large.' The wood is
strong, but shorter jointed than that of either the Ca-
tawba or Isabella. This is considered a native Ame-
rican grape, and bears a strong resemblance to the
Elsenberg, but is by no means so hardy. It makes a
dark-red wine of inferior flavor when new, but improv-
ing by age.

Pond's Seedling is a large, round purple grape, with
a thin skin and rich pungent flavor, well adapted to the
table, and promising to make good wine.

The Luf borough is a large, round dark purple grape
of the Fox family. Its taste is sweet, and when ripe
its pulp dissolves into a saccharine juice, having a musky
flavor. It is reckoned a good wine grape.

The Bladdox is, of medium size, roundish, brownish-
red in color, and brisk and vinous flavor. It is not sub-
ject to rot, and reckoned a good wine grape.

Norton^ s Virginia Seedling hesiYS bunches of medium
size, compact and shouldered, with berries small, purple,
sweet, but with pulp. It makes an inferior wine.

7-2 FRUIT iMRDEN.

The Qunningham Grajoe is a native of Prince Ed-
ward's County, Virginia. The. berries are of medium
size, round, black, and not subject to rot. Their taste
is said to resemble that of the Nigrillo of Madeira.
It is a good table and promising wine grape.

The Woodson is another Virginia variety, from
Prince Edward's County, and is recommended as a
very proper fruit for the production of a sparkling
wine. It yields abundantly, but ripens late.

There are still other varieties ^of native American
grapes, enjoying more or less local or general celebrity.
Amon^ these are the Tasker, and the Schuylkill, which
diflfer but little from each other.

At the meeting of the National Congress of Fruit-
growers, held in New York, in 1849, the grapes re-
commended as of the first quality and best adapted to
culture in the United States, were {under glass) Black
Hamburg, Black Prince, Black Frontignac, Grizly
Frontignan, White Frontignan, White Muscat of Alex-
andria, and Chasselas de Fontainebleau ; and' of native
Grapes adapted to the open air, the Isabella and the
Catawba.

The Diana, a seedling from the Catawba, has been
brought forward lately as a native American grape of
the first class.

The cbief aim of those who seek grapes adapted to
wine-making is to obtain such as at maturity possess
sufficient sugar in their juice to render the addition of
either sugar or alcohol unnecessary for the future
stages of the wine.

The Catawba is, according the Cincinnati authorities,
the only grape yet found in the U. S. which fulfils this
great desideratum. Good wine is often made from other

GRAPE-VINE. 73

grapes — such for example as the Isabella and Scupper-
nong — but both these require the addition of consider-
able sugar to produce the requisite degree of fermen-
tation.

The following communication, made by Mr. Long-
worth to the Cincinnati Horticraltural -Society, contains
much highly valuable information relative, to the vine
culture in the United States : —

"I have for thirty years experimented on the foreign
grape, both for the table and for wine. In the accli-
mation of plants I do not believe, for the White Sweet
Water does not succeed. fis well with ma as it did thirty
years since. I obtained a large variety of French
grapes. from Mr. Loubat many years since. They were
from the vicinity of Paris and Bourdeaux. From Ma-
deira I obtained six thousand ^dnes of their best wine
grapes. Not one was found worthy of cultivation in
this latitude, and were rooted from the vineyards. As
a last experiment, I imported seven thousand vines
from the mountains of Jura, in the vicinity of Salins,
in France. At that point the vine region suddenly
ends, and many vines are there cultivated on the north
side of the mountain, where the ground is covered with
snow the whole winter from three to_ four feet deep.
Nearly all lived, and embraced,' about twenty varieties
of the most celebrated wine grapes of France. But
after a trial of five years, all have been thrown away.
I also imported samples of wine made from all the
grapes. One variety alone, the celebrated Arbois
wine, which partakes slightly of the Champagne cha-
racter, would compete with our Catawba.

^' If we intend cultivating the grape for wine, we
must rely on our native grapes, and new varieties raised

74 FRUIT GARDEN.

from their seed. If I could get my lease of life renewed
for twenty or thirty years, I would devote my atten-
tion to the subject, and I would cross our best native
varieties with the best table and wine grapes of Europe.
We live in a great age. Di-sooveries are daily made
that confound us, and we know not -where we shall
stop. We are told of experiments in mesmerism, as
wonderful as the grinding-over system would be ; but I
fear the discovery will not be brought, to perfection in
time to answer my purpose, and I must leave the sub-
ject with the young generation.

"I have heretofore wanted faith in the doctrine of
French horticulturists, that to improve your stock of
pears you must not select the seed of the finest fruit,
but of the natural choke pear. I am half converted to
their views. The Catawba is clearly derived from the
common Fox grape. In raising from its seed, even
white ones are produced, but I have not seen one equal
to the parent plant, and in all the white down on' the
under, side of the leaf, and the hairs on the stalk, com-
mon to the -wild Fox grape, ai?e abundant."

The same g-entleman, in pointing out the evils of
following practices in the United States which are
highly advantageous in other countries, observes : —

" In som.e parts of Europe, where their summers are
cool, they find it necessary to shorten the ^leading
branches intended to produce the next year's crop, and
thin out the leaves, and head in the short branches, and
fully expose the fruit to the sun and air to insure its
ripening. This method in our hot climate is often
-highly injurious to the plant and destructive to the
fruit. If the heading-in of the leading shoots be done
early in the season, the fruit buds of the fallowing year

GRAPE-VINE. 75 .

are thrown out. As an experiment, I one- year, by
successive heading, had the fruit of four successive years
on the plant at the same time, and the fall being favor-
able, the second crop ripened its fruit. Where the
fruit branches are frequently topped, and the wood be-
comes ripe, the sap ceases to flow and the fruit cannot
ripen. This is the case at the vineyard of Mr. Duhme.
In our hot climate no more lateral branches should b^
taken from the main shoots intended for next year's
fruit than to give them the necessary length. The
fruit branches should be topped when in blossom be-
yond the second eye from the last blossom,- and after
that allowed to grow without topping. In our climate,
to ripen the fruit a portion of shade is necessary, for
where there is growing young wood, there is of course a
full flow of sap to the fruit, without which it shrivels
and drops off.

" This day I visited a German settlement on the
Ohio, commencing about twelve miles above the city and
extending about four miles. The hill commences close to
the river and rises gradually ; the usual bottom land
being an the opposite side of the river. Tlie soil is
porous, and well calculated, in my-opinion^ for the culti-
vation of the grape, and nearly the whole of the four miles
is occupied by vineyards, and there are also some on the
top of the hill. Two of the vineyards belong to English-
men ;• the-owners of all the others are Germans.

" Most of tlie vineytirds in this vicinity (Cincinnati)
have suffered ■ severely from the rot, and some vine-
dressers, expecting in the early part of the season to
make from 2000 to 4000 gallons of wnne, will not make
100. Yet their vineyards are on the sides and tops of
the hills, fully exposed to the sun and air. But the

76 FRUIT G/UIDEN.

- sub-soil is a stiff clay, retentive of moisture. These
localities will, I fear, be always subject to rot, and yet
the vineyards will be found more profitable than any
other crop. To persons having a porous soil, I would
recommend the cultivation of the Ilerbemont grape. It
is a fine grape both for the table and for wine, and per-
fectly hardy. It makes wine of superior quality, simi-
lar to the Spanish Manzanilla, or Mansinsella, as it is
generally pronounced. This grape has a soft pulp, and
resembles the best foreign table grapes. Lick Run, in
our immediate vicinity, will make one of the most beau-
tiful rural spots in the world. - It will soon be a con-
tinuous line of vineyards. I wish some of our poets
would visit it in May or June, and give it a more beau-
tiful and appropriate name. They may rack their
brains for months, and not find one worthy of the scene.
It is different on Mount Adams, which is in a double
sense in connection with the heavens — its height and
proximity to the great Telescope of Professor Mitchel.
The highest street is called Celestial Street. Command-
ing as the view is, the name surely equals it.

"I have just returned, from a visit to the vineyard of
Mr. Langdon, on the bottom of the Little Miami, eight
miles above the city, in a sandy soil. That porous, soil
is not subject to the rot in grapes is exemplified here.
His misfortune is, in faet, too large a crop of fruity an
unusual complaint this season. Yet he will have a poor
vintage, arising from two causes, which prevent the fruit
from ripening. The first and least cause is too much
fruit, from leaving too much bearing wood. There was
more than the vine could give a supply of sap for, in a
favorable season. The second and great cause is the
same as at the vineyard of Mr. Duhme. The fruit has no

GRAPE-VINE. 77

shade, few leaves, and but little young wood on the fruit
branches to carry sap to the grapes to ripen them. The
wood is life-; and the circulation of the sap stopped. Not
one-fourth of the grapes will ripen perfect, many of
them shrivel- and drop, and many of them scarcely
change color. A favorable fall will aid them.

''J observed in the vineyard of Mr. Langdon, that the
Catawba vine is much closer jointed than in our richer
land, where there is a sub-soil of clay ; and one of my
German vine-dressers assured me this is always the
case. This would indicate an increased crop, and the
change probably depends on the richness of the soil.
An important inquiry is. Will the grape in a sandy soil
yield an equal amount of sugar ? I wish our vine-
dressers to direct their attention to this subject. In
some of our vineyards, they have both soils, and the
question will be. easily decided. The color of the
Catawba grape is no certain evidence of its ripeness
and richness. They are often of unusual dark color
this season, yet the juice has one-eighth less sugar."

Eobert Buchanan, Esq., a highly intelligent and
successful vine-culturist and wine-maker, of Cincinnati,
has lately favored the public ivith a short but very
comprehensive '' Treatise on tlie Cultivation of the
Grape in Vineyards,'" in which he mentions the varie-
ties of grapes chiefly raised near Cincinnati, the cha-
racteristics of the wine made from them, and modes
of culture pursued. This publication, coming from one
so intelligent and well qualified by experience in the
vine culture and wine making, will be found to convey
thd most opportune and valuable instruction to all
interested in the subject.

Propagating the Vine hy Cuttings and Layers. —

78 FRUIT GARDEN.

Mr. Buchanan says, that in the vicinit}^ of Cincinnati
the most common way of propagating the vine is by
means of cuttings, which may be made a foot or more
long, with a portion of two year old w^ood attached.
Or they may be shortened to only one or two buds or
eyes. Sometimes, instead of covering only the lower
end of the cutting, and leaving one or more eyes above
the soil, the piece of vine is all covered under, a prac-
tice called cultivating by layers. Plants raised from
cuttings are generally preferred. These should be
selected a year before they are wanted, and transferred
to very large pots, by which means they will be made
strong rooted and vigorous

Another mode of raising from layers is to bend down
a vine or shoot into a hole. dug about four inches deep,
and cover it up firmly with earth, leaving the growing
extremity outside. In dry weather, occasional water-
ings will be necessary. In the month of November,
the layer will be found to have taken sufficient root to
admit of being separated from the parent vine and
planted wherever desired. It should be cut down so as
to show about two eyes above the ground, only one of
which should be allowed to grow the first year.

Grafting is sometimes resorted to, either on the stock
above ground, or on the main root just below the ground.
This succeeds best when the cion has been kept in a
cool place and kept back. Either whip, tongue, or
wedge-grafting may be adopted.

G-7'afting of the G-raije-vme. — One of the newest
practices in horticulture is the grafting of the grape-
vine with detached cions, as introduced by Mr. William
Gowans, the judicious gardener at Gadder House, near
Glasgow. It has been found perfectly successful, and

GRAPE-VINE. 79

very convenient, by some of the most distinguished
practical horticulturists in Scotland — Mr. Macdonald
at Dalkeith, Mr. Smith at Hopetoun, and Mr. Shiels at
Erskine. It seems proper, therefore, to describe mi-
nutely the mode of performing the operation.

The distinctive feature of the method is, that it avoids
the usual mode of grafting vines by approach, with all
its inconvenient restraints, and substitutes a simple
scheme of grafting by detached cions. The following
are the directions given by Mr. Gowans himself, which
will be rendered plain by looking at the annexed sketch:

Fi^. 11.

*' Select a cion with one eye, and cut it in the form
of a wedge. For a stock, select a shoot h of the pre-
ceding year, about the same thickness as the cion, and
cut it over a little above the second eye from the old
wood. With a sharp knife cut it down the centre nearly
to the old wood. Out of the centre, pare with a pen-
J^nife as much as is necessary to make it fit the cuts on
the side of the cion. Then insert the cion a with its
eye opposite to that on the top of the stock. Tie it up
and clay it over in the usual manner, with this differ-
ence, that you cover nearly the whole of the cion with

80 FRUIT GARDEN.

the clay, leaving only small holes for the eyes. Tie
some hypnum-moss upon the clay, npon which sprinkle
a little water occasionally to keep the whole in a moist
state for some time. What is of essential importance
to success in this method is the leaving of the eye or
youfig shoot on the top of the stock, and allowing it to
grow for ten or fourteen days, when it should be cut
off, leaving only one eye and one leaf to draw sap to
the cion, till it be fairly united'to the stock. "With re-
gard to the time of grafting, it will succeed pretty well
when the stocks are about to break into leaf. But
there is more certainty of success when the shoots of
the stock have made four or five eyes of new wood, for
by this time the sap has begun to flow freely, and the
danger of bleeding is over."

It is evident, that by this mode of grafting vines,
many different kinds of grapes may be tried in the
course of three or four years, even in a very limited
vinery, and the best and most successful retained in
cultivation.

A mode of propagating which is thought to produce ■
the finest plants for fruiting of all others, is that by
the single eye. This is generally done early in Feb-
ruary or March, by cutting the wood of the preceding
year's growth, so as to have but one eye on each piece,
leaving about an inch of wood on each side of the eye.
These sectionB are to be planted in pots with suitable
mould, one to every pot, and placed under glassj in
either hot or cold frames, or in the window of a warm
room, and carefully watered. By constant repotting
and watering with liquid manure, they may be made
to grow ten or twelve feet the first year. One of the

GRAPE-VINE. 81

advantages ascribed to vines raised thus from single
eyes, is that of having shorter joints, which renders
them capable of producing a larger amount of fruit.

Planting Out. — When the vines raised in pots or
otherwise are to be transplanted, the months gene-
rally preferred are October and November in autumn,
and in the spring March and April. In ground pro-
perly prepared, a hole is to be dug about eighteen
inches deep, and wide enough at bottom to allow the
roots to spread out to their fullest extent without
binding. Any that appear broken or diseased should
be cut off. The side roots should be covered shallow,
and fine earth, or, what is far better, rich compost or
vegetable mould added so as to fill up the hole. Then
pour in three or four gallons of water, after the sink-
ing of which more earth is to be added, and pressed
down gently with the foot. During the first season's
growth all the side shoots are to be pruned, so as to
leave but two eyes on each.

In yards and gardens, along walls, fences, or open
borders, low training may be adopted wherever there
is sufficient room. Vines may be conducted horizon-
tally, so as to extend a great distance under the pro-
jecting edges or copings of a wall or close fence,
especially where these face the east. In cities they
may be taken up from close and gloomy yards to the
tops of houses, three or four stories, high, and there
spread out upan arbors, and exposed to the influ-
ences of the sun and air, so as to be made produce
abundance of delightful fruit. Or, they may be trained
low like currant bushes, three, four, or more shoots
being allowed to grow eighteen inches or two feet above
8

82 FRUIT GARDEN.

the ground to give an annual supply of young bearing-
wood.

American fence-rows would seem to offer a pecu-
liarly fine situation for the grape-culture, the posts and
rails oiFering such admirable means of support. To
what great profit might the immense amount of land
be put which is now taken up by fences and entirely
lost to culture, and this too without injury to the regu-
lar grain crops from . shading ? Intelligent farmers
would do well to adopt a course which would not only
supply their families with abundance of wholesome
fruit, but afford a source of regular profit.

When vines are trained as standards, according to
the practice pursued in Northern France or Germany,
the main stalk or stem is not allowed to be over six or
eight inches high. From this, two or three shoots are
trained by being tied to a stake three or four feet high.
These shoots will produce two or three bunches each,
within a foot or eighteen inches of the ground, and they
will be succeeded annually by others springing from
the crown or top of the dwarf main stem. In Southern
Europe the base or main stem is often left higher, and
its side shoots secured to poles many feet high.

PrUniyig. — This is done at two distinct periods ; what
is called Summer Pruning consists in pinching off the
shoots having no fruit, or such as > are not required for
the succeeding year. The fruit bearing shoots, as well
^s those left for succeeding seasons, must also be
topped.

The Winter Pruning consists in trimming off all the
wood that has borne, and shortening the new bearing
wood for next year, to three or four eyes in cold situa-
tions, and to six or eight in warmer exposures.

GRAPE VINE. 83

Soil. — In almost any good deep and dry soil, the
grape-vine will thrive. Where the soil is shallow, very
dry and gravelly, the produce will be less in quantity,
but of better flavor than that raised on rich and deep
ground. ^

Manures for Grape- Vines. — Dr. Liebig refers to
instances where vines have been maintained in a pro-
ductive condition for twenty to thirty years, by simply
returning to them their leaves and trimmings, the
last being cut into small pieces and dug into the soil
by means of a spade or hoe. Some manures favor the
growth of wood and foliage rather than fruit. High
manuring will generally have this effect, a rule which
is applicable to all other plants or trees. Hence, the
judicious selection and application of manures are im-
portant matters. Ground bones, horn shavings, old
woolen rags, the dust and dirt from paved roads and
streets, perfectly rotted stable manure, poudrette, are
some of the best.

To believe that the vine will continue to bear to all
time, with no other nourishment than it receives from
its own refuse, is inconsistent with the revelations of
recent scientific researches. Organic chemistry shows
us what the fruit extracts from the soil, among which
are large proportions of phosphate of lime and potash.
A portion of the last may be restored by the return
of the trimmings and leaves. But ultimately the potash
required by the vine must be exhausted wherever there
is not a granitic soil to furnish it, by the decomposition
of its felspar or mica. As to the phosphate of lime
taken away with the fruit, scarcely any portion of which
is returned by the vine-wood and leaves, this must be

84 FRUTT (JARDEN.

supplied to the vine in some form, or otherwise its pro-
ductiveness must be very limited.

Management of the Vine under Glass. — The vines
may be planted either on the inside or outside of the
grapery, to correspond with the rafters to which they are
to be trained. "VYhen on the outside, a bank of earth
is to be raised over the roots, and the vines brought
under the outer wall through appropriate notches.

Training and Pi^uning. — The main stems are to be
cut off even with the bottom of the glass, and two
shoots allowed to start from it the first season, and if
any fruit appears, one bunch may be allowed to grow
on the strongest shoot. Train the shoots up the rafters
as high as they will go, but do not top them when a
third or half way up, as some have advised. The suc-
ceeding winter lay the strongest shoot within two or
three feet of the past season's grow^th, cutting the
weakest shoot to within one eye of the preceding sea-
son's growth. The strongest stem may have ten or
twelve eyes all producing fruit, of which one bunch
may be allowed to each eye. The Aveakest branch left
without any fruit may be permitted to grow as much
as it will. The second winter cut back the strong shoot
to within two eyes of the old wood, and allow one shoot
to grow from it. One shoot is to be trained without
fruit for next season's crop. Four shoots may be finally
left on the vine, one-half of which may be allowed to
bear every year, the other two being cut back for fruit-
ing the following season. This is commonly termed
the long cane system^ and is regarded as the most sim-
ple and very best method of pruning followed in the
United States.

Pruning consists of winter pruning and summer

GRAPE-VINE.

'pruning^ operations very different from each other.
What is commonly styled the Spur system of training
and 2)runi'}ig is managed as follows : Allow each stem
to extend the whole height of the house, and if the
first year it does not attain the size of three inches
round, it is to be cut back and .allowed another year's
growth. Should it attain more than three inches in
circumference, it must be regarded as too strong, and
cut down to within about four feet of the old wood.
Young spurs will put out to bear fruit, and one bunch
may be taken from each, the growth of each spur being
stopped two eyes above the bunches. These spurs are
cut back at each winter pruning, so as leave two or
three eyes on each. These again sending out spurs,
one bunch is to be taken from each, and so continue
from year to year. Never take more than one bunch
from a single eye.

Hoare, in his excellent treatise upon the vine, has
reduced to a scale its bearing capacities at certain
stages of its growth. The greatest quantity of grapes
which any vine can mature, in proportion to the cir-
cumference of its stem or base measured three inches
above the ground, is as follows : —
-When 3 inches in circumference 5 lbs.

4 "

5 "

6 "

7 "

8 "

9 "
10 "

iferenc

;e 5

a

10

a

15

a

20

a

36

'i

45

a

b^

Q^

io

86 FRUIT GARDEN.

The Autumnal Pruning or Training should take
place immediately after the falling of the leaves, and
the wood of the year jnst finished should never be
trimmed back to but one eye, instead of which a long
spur of three eyes must be left, since one or more may
be defective. The surplus eyes can be rubbed off after
securing the setting of the fruit during the earliest
stage of its growth the ensuing season.

In Summer Pruning, every shoot must be stopped
two leaves above the bunch, after which new lateral
shoots will soon be produced. These again must be
stopped by pinching off about every fortnight, to pre-
serve the strength of the plant for the perfection of the
fruit.

High training is generally pursued from observing
that the most vigorous shoots and best fruit are usually
found at the extremities of the branches, especially
'those situated highest. It has been observed that
native vines seldom or never throw out bearing shoots
before reaching the tops of trees on which they seek
support, when the branches generally assume a hori-
zontal direction.

By far the most of the foreign grapes raised in the
United States, under glass, are brought forward with-
out fire-heat; the sun's rays, when properly taken
advantage of, being sufficient to produce maturity in
almost every variety. The routine of the grape-house
culture without fire-heat is as follows: The vines which
had been trimmed, and perhaps laid down in the be-
ginning of winter, should be raised up and washed
with strong soapsuds, to which some tobacco decoction
may be added. They should have all the rough bark

GRAPE-VINE. 87

removed, and cleaned tlioronghly, after -wliicli they
^may be tied up in their proper places. After they put
outj they should be syringed with water about an hour
after sunrise every morning, should the sashes be on
the house. After the fruit has set, the vines may be
syringed every afternoon, the house being previously
shut up, not to be re-opened till the sun has warmed
up the air next day, usually 'about nine or ten o'clock,
at which time the top sashes may be let down to admit
air, and the thermometer not allowed to rise above
ninety or one hundred degrees. When the fruit attains
the size of peas, the syringing is discontinued by some,
whilst by others it is kept up till the grapes begin to
change color.

As the season advances, and during the sultry days
of July and August, mildew is to be looked for, and
may be readily recognized by the yellowish and sickly
transparency of the leaves, which have a soft and
greasy feel. The destruction wrOught through mildew
is often so rapid and extensive that where the least
signs appear, the most prompt measures should be taken
to check its extension. Copious syringing with water,
twice a day, is recommended as one of the best reme-
dies, allowing the freest possible circulation of the air
from ten to three o'clock, if the sun shines. When the
disease has made considerable progress, flour of sulphur
may be added to the water with which the syringing is
effected. Four gallons of boiling water may be poured
over five pounds of the sulphur, and after it has been
well stirred and allowed to settle, a gallon of this water
maybe added to that commonly made use of in syring-
ing. Never allow cold draughts of air through open

88 FRUIT GARDEN.

doors, &c., to pass immediately among the vines.
After stopping syringing, the roots should be watered
every week.

Pruning.— 'Mo^t of the pruning required in summer
may be performed without a knife, the shoots being so
tender as to be readily pinched off by the fingers. Select
the shoots which are to be trained for the next year's
crop, and others necessary for filling the trellis from
the bottom. These shoots should generally be from
twelve to fifteen inches apart. All those between, and
having no clusters, are to be removed; and those left,
and having clusters, are to be shortened so as to leave
one joint above the uppermost cluster. To effect this
properly, the vines, when first showing their fruit,
should be gone over every three or four days, till all
the shoots have shown their clusters.

Thinning and Spreading. — Those who desire to have
the very largest and best fruit that can be raised from
the vine, must resort to the practice of thinning out a
portion, whilst yet green and about the size of garden
peas. This is done by cutting off with narrow-pointed
scissors, from one-fourth to a third of the berries.
The grapes left will thus have room to swell freely, and
though reduced in numbers, will be the same in w^eight,
as if all had been left on. The bunches of the large-
growing kinds will be protected from the effects of
damp, or mouldiness, by having their shoulders spread
out and suspended to the trellis or branches, by strands
of fresh matting. If th.ey appear crowded before they
begin to color, some berries may still be clipped off,
but care must be observed not to touch them after
coloring, for fear t)f rubbing off some of the bloom
which constitutes so much of their beauty.

FIG-TREE. 89'

Any person having a green-house for the protection
of tender plants and exotics, can, with little or no ad-
ditional expense, manage to make it secure him every
year a crop of the finest kinds of foreign grapes. The
vines may be planted outside near the front wall, in
the lower part of which openings are to be left in the
brick or wood-work, to permit the vines to be passed in
or drawn out. As soon as the weather will admit the
plants to be exposed to the open air, the vines may be
passed into the house and attached to the rafters or
other supports, where they are to be trained and treated
according to the rules laid down for their management.
In the fall, the ripe grapes may be taken off, the vines
trimmed, withdrawn from the house, and properly
bound up and secured against the frosts of winter.
Meantime, the hot-house plants are enjoying their ap-
propriate places of protection.

Much useful information relating to the proper
management of vines in graperies will be found under
the head of Pruniyig and Training^ when describing
the operations of the forcing garden.

The Fig-Tree (Ficus Carica) is not a great favorite
in Britain, the fresh fruit not being much relished,
and the tables being supplied with a vast abundance of
dried figs imported from the Mediterranean couatries.
Every good garden ought, however, to contain a few
trees, to furnish an occasional dish; and we doubt not
that the fresh fruit, if it were more common and better
grown, would be more liked. The foliage of the tree is
large and elegant, aud the mode of fructification is
curious : the pulpy part, which we call the fruit, being.

90 FRUIT GARDEN.

in fact, a common receptacle, and the anthers and stig-
mata being produced inside. The nomenclature of figs
is still v.erj uncertain, and it is with some hesitation
that we give the following names : —

1. Black Ischia. 5. Brown Turkey.

2. Black Genoa. G. Pregussata.

3. Brunswick or Madonna. 7. Lee's Perpetual.

4. Brown Ischia or Miller's 8. Early White.

chestnut fig. 9. Marseilles or Figue blanche.

Of these, the Marseilles, the Early White, Black Ischia,
and Brown Turkey, are the best adapted for forcing ;
the others are suitable for walls. Lee's Perpetual
answers well for either mode of culture ; but is not re-
cognized by Loudon or by Lindley as a distinct va-
riety.

Fig-trees may be propagated by cuttings put into
flower-pots, and placed in a gentle hot-bed. They are,
however, most speedily obtained from layers. The
shoots laid down should be two or three years old; and
these when rooted will form plants ready to bear fruit
the first or second year after planting. Suckers ought
never to be used.

In some places in England, fig-trees are planted out
as standards ; and in Kent and Sussex, a few small fig
orchards exist. In Scotland, a south wall is indispen-
sable, trained to which, in good situations, and when
the trees are old enough, they bear remarkably well.
The best soil for a fig border is a rich friable loam, on
a subsoil not retentive of moisture, or which has been
effectually drained. It is advantageous to have a lofty
wall, and the trees should be planted at considerable

FIG-TREE. 91

distances, perhaps not nearer than forty feet, to allow
them full space to exhaust their luxuriance.

It is of the nature of the jBg-tree to produce two sets
of shoots and two crops of fruit in the season. The
first shoots generally show'young figs in July and Au-
gust, but these in the English climate very seldom ripen.
The late or midsummer shoots likewise put forth fruit-
buds, which, however, do not develop themselves till
the following spring, and then form the only crop of
figs on which we can depend in Britain.

Various modes of training fig-trees have been pro-
posed. Mr. Lindley recommends the horizontal form.
Mr. Knight carries up a central stem perpendicularly to
the top of the wall, and then radiates the side-branches
horizontally and pendently, in close contact with the
wall. Luxuriance of growth is supposed thus to be
checked, and the branches thrown into a bearing habit.
The finest fig-trees which we have seen in Scotland are
trained in the old fan form. The shoots are laid in,
thinly, at full length, and encouraged to extend them-
selves as fast as possible, precaution, however, being
taken to leave no part of the tree bare of young wood.
Much of the pruning is performed in summer by pinch-
ing off unnecessary shoots, and the knife is seldom em-
ployed, except in removing naked branches, or in cut-
ting back to procure a supply of young wood. Some
cultivators break off the points of the spring shoots, in
order to produce laterals, but this must be done at an
early period, not later perhaps than midsummer, other-
wise the young shoots will not ripen. The Rev. G.
Swayne recommends rubbing off all the young figs which
appear in autumn on shoots of the same year, observing
that for every young fig thus displaced the rudiments

92 FRUIT GARDEN.

of one, or perhaps two others, are formed before -winter,
and developed in the following year.*

The winter dressing of the fig-tree takes place im-
mediately after the fall of the leaf. The immature figs
which may remain are removed, irregularities are cor-
rected, and the shoots nailed neatly to the wall. Va-
rious modes of protecting the branches during winter
have been adopted. At Argenteuil, where figs are cul-
tivated on standards for the Paris market, the lower
branches are bent downwards, and buried about six
inches deep in the soil ; while the upper branches are
tied together, and bound round with straw and litter.
Mr. Swayne mentions that he wraps up the young
shoots with waste paper. Mr. Forsyth recommends
covering wall fig-trees with the spray of laurel or yew,
and then tucking in short grass or moss (Jiypnum)
among the spray. Mr. Smith, first at Ormiston Hall,
and afterwards at Hopetoun House, has found ( Cal.
Sort. Soc. Mem., vol. ii.) a covering of spruce-fir
branches to be very elFectual. The branches are so
placed as to overlap each other, and to form a layer
nearly equally thick on every part of the tree. The
foliage of the spruce branches remains green till March,
and as the light and heat increase, the dried leaves
gradually fall off, and admit air and sun to the fig
branches below.

Mr. Monk {Lond. Hort. Trans., vol. v.) states that
the same fig-tree seldom produces fruit containing both
perfect stamens and pistils, and conjectures that this is
the cause of the fruit being so often prematurely shed.

* It is a proverb in fig culture that "the more you prune the
less your crop."

THE PEACH. y3

Caprificatwn, or assisting the fructifying and matura-
tion of figs, lias often been sneered at; but here we see
reason in that kind of it which consisted in hanging or
shaking the branches of the wild fig {eaprificiis) over
the cultivated tree at the time when both were in
blossom.

^' There is something very singular in the fructifica-
tion of the fig: it has no visible flower, for the fruit
arises immediately from the joints of the tree, in the
form of little buds, with a perforation at the end. but
not opening or showing anything like petals or the
ordinary parts of fructification. As the fig enlarges,
the flower comes to maturity in concealment, and in
eastern countries the fruit is improved by a singular
operation called caprification. This is performed by
suspending by threads, above the cultivated figs,
branches of the wild fig, which are full of a species of
cynips. When the insect has become winged, it quits
the wild fig and penetrates the cultivated ones, for the
purpose of laying its eggs ; and thus it appears both to
insure the fructification by dispersing the pollen, and
afterwards to hasten the ripening by puncturing the
pulp and causing a change of the nutritious juices. In
France this operation is imitated by inserting straws
dipped in olive-oil." — Lib. of Ent. Kiioivledge.

The Peach [Amygdalus Persica) is a stone-fruit of
oriental origin, said to have been brought from Persia
by the Romans about the beginning of the empire ;
but the precise period of its introduction into our
British gardens, of which it has long been the pride
and ornament, is not well ascertained. There are two
principal varieties : the Peach, properly so called, with
9 "

94 FRUIT GARDEN. "

a downy skin; and the Nectarine, with a smooth skin.
These, following the authority of Linnaeus, we consider
as one species ; and as their culture is precisely the
same, we shall speak of them as distinct only when re-
ferring to their sub-varieties. Each of these varieties
is again divided by gardeners into freestones or pecTies,
and clmgstones or |;ar/es, according as the stone parts
freely from the pulp or adheres to it. \Ye shall here
treat chiefly of the freestones, as being most hardy and
fittest for the open wall in Britain.

Mr. George Lindley, whose arrangement is the best
that has hitherto been published, enumerates 60 kinds
of peaches and 28 of nectarines. In the Horticultural
Society's Catalogue the names of 183 peaches, and of
(Sb nectarines, are recorded. AYe doubt not but that
in America, where the trees are commonly raised from
kernels, and grown as standards, endless varieties and
sub-varieties might be collected. To enumerate even
the limited number existing in Britain would far exceed
our limits ; we shall, therefore, notice only a few of
those which are most distinct and best adapted to the
English climate.

Peaches.

Red Nutmeg, or Avant rouge of the French. — This
is one of the earliest peaches, ripening in England about
the beginning of August. The fruit small ; color pale
yellow towards the wall, bright vermilion next the sun;
pulp white, but red at the core ; the juice rich and
musky. The tree is an abundant bearer.

Acton Scot. — This was raised by Mr. Knight between
the noblesse and the nutmeg peach, in 1814. The fruit
is red next the sun, and white on the other side.

THE PEACH. 95

ripening in August; the pulp rich, juicy, and saccha-
rine; the tree is a good bearer, and not apt to be
affected with mildew.

Spring- G-rove. — This is another of Mr. Knight's
peaches, raised from the grosse mignonne crossed with
the pollen of the nutmeg. It is dark red on one side
and bright yellow on the other ; pulp firm, but melting,
and of excellent flavor. The tree is a good bearer,
especially when on an apricot stock. The fruit ripens
in the beginning of September.

Grosse dlignonne, L. Sort. Qat.^ or NeiVs Early
Puri^le. — Fruit large; skin pale yellow, and deep purple
next the sun ; flesh melting ; juice plentiful, and of de-
licious flavor. The tree is a good bearer, and forces
well, but the fruit does not bear carriage. It ripens
in the end of August and beginning of September.

Madeleine de Courson ;- Bed Magdalen of Miller. —
Blossoms large ; fruit rather below the middle size ;
color yellowish-white next the wall, beautiful red next
the sun ; flesh white, with very little red at th6 stone ;
juice rich and vinous. Tree a good bearer; fruit ripen-
ing about the beginning of September. " An excellent
peach,'' says Mr. Lindley, '-^ and ought to be found in
every collection."

Eoi/al G-eorge. — This is a well-known peach, much
cultivated. By nurserymen it is often given out under
the . name of Pved Magdalen ; but the blossoms are
small, while those of the Magdalen are large. Against
a good wall the fruit often ripens in the beginning of
September, and even in indifferent seasons by the middle
of that month. Fruit large, purplish-red next the sun,
whitish where shaded ; flesh white, varied with red next
the stone, Avhich is free ; melting, rich, with an abun-

96 FRUIT (JARDEN.

dant sugary juice. It is also one of the best kinds for
a peach-house, fruiting freely, and ripening vfeW. The
foliage is, however, rather subject to mildew.

Noblesse. — This has long and de&ervedly been a fa-
vorite in our gardens. It is a very large fruit ; the
skin pale, red when ripe; the flesh juicy and rich.
The tree is a good bearer, and the' fruit ripens in Sep-
tember.

Bellegarde ; the G-alande of the nurseries. — Fruit
large and globular ; skin deep red, with purple streaks
on the sunny side ; flesh pale yellow, very melting ;
juice rich. An excellent peach ; the tree forces well,
and the fruit ripens on the open wall about the middle
of September.

Barrington, sometimes called Buckingham Mignonne,
is a handsome fruitj rather large, of a pale yellowish-
green next the wall, but deep red next the sun ; flesh
melting, juicy, and very rich, yellowish-white, slightly
rayed with crimson next the stone ; ripens about the
middle of September. The tree bears forcing well, and
is not subject to mildew.

Late Admirable, or La Royale. — Fruit large ; skin
pale green next the wall, pale red on the sunny side ;
flesh greenish white, red at the stone ; juice abundant,
and, when well ripened, of a high flavor* " One of
the very best late peaches," says Mr. Thompson, "and
ought to be in every collection." It is very proper for
the peach-house, to succeed the earlier sorts.

Nearly allied to the preceding is the Teton de Venus,
a beautiful fruit, but requiring a Avarm situation. In
a good season it ripens at the -end of September J is
saccharine, and at the same time of fine flavor.

George the Fourth. L. Hort. Cat. Qb ; American

TII13 PEACH. 97

Orahardist^ p. 223. — This is a fine large peach of
American origin ; bears forcing well, and is a semi-
clingstone. It requires a flued wall in England.

Ajaaong other excellent peaches may be mentioned :
Freestones, 'Chancellor, Knight's Early, Downton Early,
Malta, or Belle de Paris, Royal Charlotte, and. Wil-
liam's Early Purple ; Clingstones, Catharine, Heath,
and Old Newington.

The following account of the modes of cultivating
the peach in England, whilst it shows the impediments
opposed by nature to the development of this fruit in
that climate, may prove useful to those who reside in
the more northern United States and British Colonies
where the climate is unfavourable to the perfection of
this delicious fruit in the open air.* In all the Southern
and Middle States the peach-tree flourishes in the open
air, and planted in orchards, attains some fifteen or
twenty feet in height. The position where the peach
is found perhaps in the greatest perfection is about the
latitude of Baltimore and Washington. In the State of
Delaware, south of Philadelphia, thousands of acres
are covered with peach-trees affording the greatest
abundance of fruit in the highest perfection. Baskets,
holding about three pecks, are commonly sold at
tAventy-five to fifty cents. The .varieties of this fruit
known in the United States are ^very numerous, and
every year increasing.

Propagation. — The facility with which this is effected
in the United States may be judged of by the fact,

* The management required for obtaining tlie peach at ex-
traordinary seasons will be found laid down in the description
of operations connected with forcing.

9*

yo FRUIT GARDEN.

that vigorous budded trees from four to seven feet in
height can be obtained at the nurseries at from three
dollars to five dollars per hundred. The first step is
to plant the pits or stones in November, in some rich,
light, or sandy soil, covering them about three inches
deep. They may be placed in rows four feet apart, and
six or eight inches from each other. Or, the pits may
be deposited during the autumn, in moist sand or light
mould, and there left to form sprouts, which are taken
from the stones and planted in rows. After the first
summer's growth, they are budded in August and Sep-
tember. Early the succeeding spring, those in which
the operation has succeeded have the old wood cut
down close above the new bud, which will shoot up in
the course of the season, from three to nine feet hi^^h,
with numerous side-branches. In some of the Western
States, we are informed, it is common to plant the stones
in November, and bud the growth the following June,
head down in July, and thus secure a growth of four
or six feet within one year from the planting of the
stone. When budding is performed on the plum stock,
they will, it is said, live for half a century, and be free
from the attacks of the woriii, which is so apt to destroy
the tree by its excavations into the bark immediately
below the crown of the root., In poor, sandy soils, or
gravelly subsoils, the tree is very short-lived, seldom
bearing more than one or two crops before becoming
sickly, and dying with what is commonly called the
yellows. A light clay loam is the most favorable soil
for the peach-tree, arid this must be kept rich, or other-
wise the trees will soon" exhaust the fertility of the
ground, and perish from the yelloivs. Although a clay
subsoil, retentive of moisture, is so congenial to the

THE PEACn. 99

peacli-tree, a little excess of moisture is very prejudi-
cial. A happy medium, neither too dry nor too moist,
is the great desideratum.

Planting Out. — The ground intended for peach or-
chards should be ploughed as deeply as possible, and
made fine by subsequent harrowing. If well manured
the previous year, all the better. The trees, which
should be one year old, counting from the budding, are
to be placed not nearer than twenty feet apart, which
makes one hundred and eight to the acre^: on strong
land, where they would attain to still greater size, they
should be at least twenty-four feet apart. Cultivate in
corn or potatoes, the first two seasons, after which the
trees wall begin to bear, and generally make sufficient
grow^th to require all the ground for themselves. This
ground should be ploughed and harrowed every season,
and the trees hoed around, to break up all sward.

Pruning. — In general, very little pruning is done to
peach-trees in the United States, which is strongly con-
trasted with the elaborate treatment they receive from
European fruit culturists. One of the main objects in
trimming is to thin out the branches, so as to throw
them open and allow the sun to penetrate to, every part
of the tree. This greatly improves the fruit in flavor
and color, and thus secures its better sale. Those who
have, but a few trees to manage may adopt modes of
winter and summer trimming, which will prove of very
great advantage to the fruit. "The young wood should
be kept thin, and every new growth shortened by fall
or winter pruning. In this way, the beauty, vigor and
productiveness of th6 tree may be greatly improved.

At the first meeting of the National Convention of
Fruit-growers, held in the city of New York, October,

100 FKTJIT GARDEN.

1848, the following list of peaches was adopted as of
the first quality : —

Gross Mignunnc,

George IV., or Early York, \f\ih senxUed leaves,
Large Early York,
Morris White,
Oldmixon Freestone,
Cooledge's Favorite,
Bergin's Yellow,
Crawford's Late,
And for particular localities,
lieath Cling,

To this list the same body added, next year, the

Belle de Vitry,

Crawford's Early Malocaton,

Early Tillotson,

Admirable,

Late Admirable,

President,

Red Rareripe,

Lemon Cling,

Madeleine de- Courson,

Malta,

Rareripe,

Noblesse,

Royal George,

Tippecanoe, •

Incomparable Admirable.

Enemies of the Peach Tree. — The chief of these in
the United States are, first, the YellotvSy to which we
have referred, and ascribed to some uncongeniality of
soil to the tree, as well as to exhaustion, where there
is hot sufiicient fertility ; and, secondly, the peach-worm
which excavates the bark, so as often to girdle the tree
immediately below the crown of the root. Its presence
may always be known by a mass of gum, which exudes

THE PEACH. Wl

from the wounds, and a portion of which pushes itself
a little above the surface of the ground. The worm,
which is of a yellowish-white color, grows to the size of
an inch in length, is very voracious, and the product of
a four-winged long-shaped fly, with dark steel-blue
wings, and yellow bands about the body. It is a species
of ^geria, called by Say, who has described it, exigiosa,
or the destructive, and its eggs are deposited during the
summer upon the outer surface of the tree near the
root. As soon as these hatch, the minute maggot-like
larva penetrate the bark, and begin their work of de-
struction, which increases with their size. They live in
this way about a year, when they cut out and enter
their chrysalis state, between the tree and the earth,
covered with the gum which bulges out from the base
of the tree. After lying here a little while, they come
forth in the new form of winged insects, and are soon
busy in depositing a new crop of eggs for the production
of more extensive destruction. A particular description
of this insect and its habits may be found in the Farm-
ers' and Planters' Encyclopc^dia, under the head
"Peach." Putting a quart or more of unleached ashes
around the crown of the root in the month of April is
recommended as a good destroyer of the peach worm.
A mixture of common salt and saltpetre, one-eighth of
the latter to seven-eighths of the former, has also been
successfully applied in a similar manner. Freshly
slaked lime, half a peck heaped up around the crown
of the root of each tree, is also recommended, the lime
to be spread oUt over the ground the succeeding year.
All these plans are doubtless advantageous, not only
from their often destroying the worm, but by their con-
tributing fertilizing qualities to the soil.

102 FRUIT OARDEX.

Nectarines.

FaircTiild'^ Early. — A beautiful little freestone ;
chiefly, however, cultivated for its earliness. It ripens
about the middle of August.

Elruge; L. Hort. Cat. 21. Lind, p. 287 (not of
Miller). — It is an excellent fruit, of a moderate size ;
flesh-white, almost to the stone, which is free. The
tree forces well, and is a good bearer. Fruit ripens
about the beginning of September.

Sunt' 8 Taivinj. — Size moderate; skin pale orange
next the wall, russet-red towards the sun ; flesh deep
orange, juicy and well-flavored; a freestone. A very
distinct sort, worthy of cultivation for its earliness.

Early Neiuiiigton. — A fine large clingstone ; pale
green on the shaded side, bright red next the sun ;
juice saccharine and well flavored. Ripens in August.

Red Roman. — An excellent old clingstone, now sel-
dom to be met with genuine, but worthy of re-introduc-
tion.

A few other first-rate nectarines maybe enumerated.
— Freestones^ Brinion, Downton, Murrey {i. e., murrey-
colored), Pitmaston Orange, Violette grosse, Violette
hative, Due de Telle ; Clingstones, Imperaticc, New-
ington Tawny. A very good nectarine was raised by.
the late Mr. Henderson at Wpodhall in Scotland. It
approaches the Elruge. The fruit is early, and of ex-
cellent flavor, and the tree bears plentifully. It has
been named the Woodhall nectarine.

The nectarine is a scarce fruit in the United States,
where, however, it would produce abundantly in the open
air, wherever the peach tree flourishes, were it not that
the smoothness of its skin, invites the curculio to make it

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 10^

the depository of its eggs, leading to the ahuost universal
destruction of the fruit, unless protected by some means
persevered in ; in this respect it seems to fail, even worse
than the plum. The beauty, fragrance, and rarity of
nectarines make them more highly prized than peaches ;
but in flavor, they are perhaps inferior to many of the
best kind of peaches to be met with every summer in the
Philadelphia market. As w'e find plum-trees escape the
attacks of the curculio, when planted in yards where
the chickens and pigs range, the same good results might
be expected from placing nectarine-trees in similar situ-
ations. Nectarine-trees are preferred, when grafted or
budded on plum stocks. Their management and culture
are similar to that of the peach.

The Red Homan^ though spoken of as one of the
oldest and best varieties cultivated in England, has
not, with several other varieties^ named, been as yet
particularly described. The fruit is large and of a yel-
lowish-green color, with a dull red cheek, sprinkled with
brown. It is a clingstone.

The Doiunton^ a much celebrated variety of necta-
rine, is a freestone of large size and a greenish-white
color, dark-red cheek, and flesh rich, melting and juicy.

The Pitlnaston Orange has fruit of medium size,
bright golden color and red cheek. The flesh is a deep
yellow, and of fine sweet rich flavor. It is a freestone.

Neiv White is a freestone of medium size, and creamy-
white color, with flesh rather juicy and well flavored.

Leiviss Seedling. — This American variety was pro-
duced by Mr. Lewis, of Boston. It is a freestone, of
large size and heart-shaped, sweet and pleasant flavor.
The color is a bright yellow, mottled with red.

Perkins Seedling, — This is a large and beautiful

104 FRUIT GARDEN.

nectarine, raised by S. G. Perkins, of Boston, from the
Lewis's Seedling. Its shape is round, color bright-
yellow, with dark crimson on one side. The flesh is
tender^ juicy and high flavored.

The Varmash is rather of small size and roundish
form, tapering towards the eye. Color, a greenish hue
on one side, with deep red next the sun. Flesh white,
rich, melting. An early ripener. -

Neiv White or Flanders ; also Emerson'' s JVeiv White,
and NeaVs New White. — From the number of claimants
to the name, we have a right to expect this to be a choice
fruit. It is a freestone of middle size, roundish shape,
and in color very pale, slightly tinged with red next the
sun. The flesh is tender and juicy, with a fine vinous
flavor. It ripens early.

At the meeting of the National Convention of Fruit-
growers in the city of New York, in 1849, the Elruge
and Early violet varieties of the nectarine were adopted
without objection, as of the first quality for this country.
Some of the best authorities present, among ^hom were
Messrs. Downing, Buist and Hancock, concurred in pro-
nouncing the Downton the very best of nectarines.

The nectarine grows best in the Middle States, in
sheltered situations, and may be advantageously trained
to fences and walls.

Choice Peaches and Nectarines for raising under
glass. — For a small glazed house, and for the wall of a
middle-sized garden, the following selection of peaches
and nectarines is recommended. For the peach-house —
Royal George, Barrington, Noblesse, Bellegarde, Grosse
Mignonne, Early Purple peaches ; Violette hative,
Hunt's Tawny, Elruge, and Roman nectarines. For
the wall — Royal George, Late Admirable, Noblesse,

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 105

Malta, Neil's Early Purple, Early Ann, Grosse Mig-
nonne, Barrington, Bellegarde, George the Fourth, and
Spring Grove peaches ; 'Nectarines^ Early Newington,
Hunt's Tawny, Yio!ette= h^tiv'e, Fairchild's Early, Ro-
man, and Pitmaston Orange.

Production of New Varieties. — For information re-
specting, the best modes of raising new varieties of
peaches tind nectarines, the reader may be referred to
Mr. Knight's papers in the first volume of the Trans-
actions of the Horticultural Society of London. That
ardent horticulturist entertained the hope that, by re-
peated sowings, the peach might acquire so robust a
habit as to be capable of succeeding as a standard in
favorable situations in England and Ireland. But with
this desirable object in view, we would rather see the
number of the kinds diminished than increased; and it
would be well for the country were all the indifferent
sorts banished from the nursery catalogues.

To perpetuate and multiply valuable varieties,
peaches and, nectarines are budded upon plum or al-
mond stocks. For dry situations, almond stocks are
preferable ; and for damp or clayey loams, it is better
to use plums. An almond budded on a plum stock
may be rebudded with a tender peach, greatly to the
advantage of the latter. The peach border should be
composed of a light mellow loam, such as is suitable
for the vine and the fig, put in as rough as possible, or
not broken small and fine. It should be well drained,
or rendered quite free from all stagnant water, or la-
tent dampness. It need not be of great depth, perhaps
eighteen inches ; for the peach-tree thrives best, and is
most productive, when the roots are near the surface
of the ground. We believe that, in many instances, all
10

106 FRUIT GAKDExV.

that is required to remedy sickly and unfruitful trees-
is to bring up their roots within five or six inches of
the surface. In England, nothing is a greater obstacle
to success in peach culture than trenching the borders,
and cropping them heavily with culinary vegetables.

The fruit of the peach is produced on the twiggy
shoots of the preceding year. If these be too luxuriant,
they yield nothing but leaves ; and if too weak, they
are incapable of maturing the fruit. To furnish these,
then, in sufficient abundance, and of requisite strength,
is the great object of peach-training and .pruning. All
twiggy trees naturally fall into the fan form ; and, ac-
cordingly, this has generally been adopted in the cul-
ture of peaches.

We shall first, therefore, notice the old English me-
thod, and then briefly the French, and other new modes
of training.

The old fan form is very nearly that already given
(supra) as a specimen of fan-training for twiggy trees.
The young tree is often procured when it has been
trained for two or three years in the nursery, but it is
generally better to commence with a maiden plant, that
is, in the first year after it has been budded. It is
then headed down to five or six buds, and in the fol-
lowing summer two to four shoots, according to the
vigor of the plant, are trained in; the laterals also be-
ing thinned out, and properly nailed to the walls.
Suppose there be four branches ; in the subsequent
winter the two central ones are shortened back to pro-
duce others, and the inferior ones are laid in nearly at
full length. In the following season additional shoots
are sent forth ; and the process is repeated till eight or
ten principal limbs or mother branches be obtained.

PEACH AND NECTARINE. 107

forming, as it were, the framework of the future tree.
These mother branches are occasionally raised or de-
pressed, so as to maintain their equilibrium, and are as
much encouraged to grow outwards as is consistent
with the regular filling up of the tree. The laterals
are carefully thinned out (by pinching off with the
fingers) in summer ; and the remainder are nailed in, to
afi^ord subordinate members and bearing wood. When
the centre of the tree has been filled up, all the training
necessary is merely to prevent the inferior members
from acquiring an undue ascendency over the mother
branches. It is highly advantageous to have abun-
dant space, and to draw the tree outwards, so that it
be thin, but nowhere destitute of young shoots.

Meanwhile the pruning for fruit has been going on.
This consists in shortening down the laterals which had
been nailed in at the disbudding, or summer pruning.
Their length will depend on their individual vigor, and
the luxuriance of the tree. The buds, which are gene-
rally double, or rather two together, with a fruit bud
between them, seldom occur quite close to the insertion
of the shoot. Perhaps two or three pairs are left with
a wood bud at the point to afford a growing shoot, in
order to act a« its lungs, for it is necessary that there
should be leaves above the fruit. The extent of thin-
ning of the fruit must depend on the vigor of the tree ;
a pair of, fruit to each square foot of wall being an ave-
rage allowance. When the fruit begins to swell, the
point of this leading shoot is pinched oiT, that it may
not drain away the sap. Any young shoot from the
wood-eyes at the base of the bearing branch is carefully
preserved, and in the following winter it takes the place
of the branch whieh has borne fruit, and is cut out. If

108

FRUIT UARDEN.

there be no young shoot below, and the bearing branch
be short, the shoots at the point of the latter are pruned
for fruit ; but this must be done cautiously ; and if the
bearing branch be long, it is better to cut it back for
young wood. It is the neglect of this which constitutes
the principal error of the English fan system as it is
usually practiced. Several times during summer the
trees are regularly examined ; the young shoots are re-
spectively topped and thinned out : those that remain
are nailed to the wall, or braced in with pieces of peeled
willow, and the whole trees are occasionally washed
with the force-pump.

The 3Iontrueil form is described at length in the

Fi- 12.

:::2^

Horticultural Tour, p. 249, or in the Qah Hort. Mem.,
voh iv. p. 145. The principal feature constitutes the
great principle of all French training, the suppression
of the direct channel of the sap. Four, more commonly
two, mere branches are so laid to the wall that the cen-
tral angle contains about 90°. The other branches are
all treated as subordinate members.

The form a la Dumoutier (so called from its inventor
and described at great length by Lelieur), is merely a
refinement on the Montrueil method. It will be suffi-
cient to mention to the experienced trainer (and none

PE.1CH AND NECTARINE.

109

other can be expected to execute this form), that the
formation of the tree commences with the inferior limbs,

Fig. 13.

and proceeds towards the centre, the branches being
lowered from time to time, as the tree acquires strength.
What is most worthy of notice in this method is the
management of the subordinates in the pruning for fruit.
When a shoot promises blossom, it is generally at some
distance from the point of insertion into the old wood,
and the intermediate space is covered with wood-buds.
All the latter, therefore, which are between the old wood

Fig. 14.

a and the blossom ^, in the outer figure, except tlie low-
est 5, are carefully removed by ehourgeonnement or dis-
This never fails to produce a shoot, i, in the

budding.

110 FRUIT GARDEN.

inner figure, the growth of which is favored by destroy-
ing the useless spray above the blossoms, and pinching
off the points of those which are necessary to perfect the
fruit. A replacing shoot is thus obtained, to which the
whole is invariably shortened at the end of the year.
The branch thus treated is called the hranche de reserve.
The form a la Sieule is another modification of the
Montrueil training, for an account of which we must
again refer to the Horticultural Tour, This figure

will give an idea of the general arrangement of the tree.
The two mother branches are laid in very obliquely,
and are never shortened. On the subordinate branches
three buds only are left at the winter pruning, one ter-
minal, and two at a considerable distance from each
other on the sides of the shoot. This method, probably,
is not well adapted to our climate.

Mr. Seymour''^ form, as described in vols. i. and ii.
of the G-ardeners Magazine, approaches more nearly
to the French methods than any pther practiced in this
country. It will be seen, however, from the annexed
figure, that he does not suppress the direct channel of
the sap. This circumstance, although , considerable
stress seems to be laid upon it, is not -essential to the
plan, nor is, perhaps, the best part of it. The princi-
pal novelty is, that the bearing shoots are all on the
upper sides of the mother branches, and that those

PEACH AND NECTARINE.

Ill

bearing shoots are wholly reproduced oncp a year. The
one side of this figure represents the tree after the win-

Fis. 16.

ter pruning, the other side before it has undergone that
operation. It will be observed that on this last side
there are pairs of shoots on the upper parts of the
mother branches. The lower shoot, that, namely, which
has borne fruit, is cut out, and the other is brought
down into it^ place. This replacing shoot is shortened
to about eight or nine inches, care being taken to cut
at a woad-bud ; and at the time of disbudding, the best
situate buds, and those nearest the base, are left for the
future year's bearing. To this plan it is objected, by a
writer in the Horticultural Register, that the annual
excision of the bearing shoots produces a series of rugged
and unsightly protuberances at their base, and along
the upper surfaces of the principal members ; an objec-
which also militates against Dumoutier's form. Mr.
Loudon, on the other hand, declares that Mr. Seymour's
mode is the most perfect in theory that has been de-
scribed. For ourselves,, we are inclined to prefer the
old fan-form, when well executed, as approaching nearest
to the natural habit of the tree, and as best adapted to
our uncertain climate. As a general observation, it

112 FRUIT GARDEN.

maybe said that, in the training of peach-trees, "what-
ever is best administered is best ;" and there is no doubt
that many ingenious gardeners have only partial suc-
cess, because, from the multiplicity of their engage-
ments, their trees can receive only partial attention.

For cold and late situations, Mr. Knight recommend-
ed the encouraging of spurs on the young wood ; such
spurs, when close to the wall, being found to generate
the best organized and most vigorous blossoms, and thus
to ensure a crop of fruit. They may be produced by
taking care during the summer-pruning, or disbudding,
to preserve a number of the little shoots emitted by the
yearly wood, only pinching off the minute succulent
points. On the spurs thus procured, numerous blos-
som-buds form early in the following season. This
mode of spurring is much pra.cticed in Scotland.

Peach-trees, particularly in the north of England,
and also in Scotland, require protection from atmosphe-
rical influences, especially at the period of blossoming.
As already noticed, branches of spruce or silver fir, or
other spray, are sometimes woven into frames, which
are fixed in front of the trees, and removed during the
day in fine weather {Q-al. Hort. Mem., i., 276). Canvas
or bunting screens are equally effectual, and perhaps
more easily movable. Straw-ropes, straw-nets, and a
variety of other expedients, have been proposed, and
may be used according to circumstances. If the screens
be applied early in the season, great benefit may be
derived from retarding the blossom till the frosty
nights of spring be past. If the night frosts have been
severe, a copious sprinkling of water over the whole
tree, before the influence of the -morning sun be felt,
has been found to be very usefuV in gradually raising

NECTARINE AND ALMOND. 118

the temperature of the foliage and blossoms, and thus
preventing injury from the sudden transition. To
trees trained against hot-walls, if fire be used in spring,
screens are indispensable ; but perhaps hot-walls are
most beneficially employed in ripening off the fruit of
the late sorts of peaches in autumn ; and, what is
equally important, ripening the young wood of such
sorts.

When peach and nectarine-trees are liable to mildew
and to aphides, it is found very useful to coat, with a
painter's coarse brush, all the branches and twigs with
a composition of black soap and flowers of sulphur,
mixed with water, and boiled to the consistence of paint.
This should be done during winter, and before the
trees are nailed to the wall.

The late pruning of the peach and nectarine should
take place early in the winter, and not be delayed till
the spring, as is sometimes the case.

The Almond-Tree [Amygdalus communis), a native
of China, may be noticed here rather on account of its
afiinity to the peach and apricot, than because of its
importance as a fruit-tree in Britain. Every good
garden should contain a tree or two trained against a
west or east w^all, and also a few standards ; for in very
fine seasons the latter will yield crops, and they are
always ornamental in spring from the beauty of their
blossoms. The sorts most worthy of notice are the
Tender-shelled Sweet Almond, or Jordan, and the Com-
mon Almond, or Bitter.

The almond is generally budded on seedlings of its own
kind ; but for heavy soils plum-stocks are preferable.

114 FRUIT GARDEN.

The training and pruning of almond-trees on walls are
much the same as in the peach or the apricot.*

The Apricot {Primus Armeniaca) is a native of the
Caucasus and China; it was cultivated by the Romans,
and was introduced into England from Italy in the reign
of Henry VIII. It has always, and deservedly, been
a favorite. The principal varieties are :

Red Masculine. — Flowers small; fruit small, round-
ish, yellow and red; flesh sweet, and juicy; stone im-
pervious ; kernel bitter. This is a very early sort, but
the tree is rather tender, and requires a good aspect.

Breda. — Flowers large ; fruit roundish, sometimes
almost four-cornered, orange-colored ; juice rich, stone
small, impervious ; kernel sweet. The true Breda is
an apricot of first-rate excellence, and in the south of
England the tree bears well as a standard.

Roman. — Flowers large ; fruit oblong, compressed,
pale yellow ; flesh soft ; stone impervious ; kernel very
bitter. The tree is a good bearer, but the fruit is fit
only for preserving. It is sometimes called the Brus-
sels— a name also occasionally given to the preceding.

Moorpark. — Flowers large ; fruit roundish, compress-
ed, orange and red ; flesh parting from the stone, juicy
and rich; stone pervious; kernel bitter. This is gene-
rally considened the best apricot in this country. There
are several sub-varieties known under different names.;

■* the, Hard-shelled Ahiionds will succeed in the open air in
any of the Middle States, and the soft-shelled have been matured
in Camden, Delaware. Very good hard-shell almonds are pro-
duced in A^irginia. The culture is similar to that of the peach
and apricot, and ought to be more generally attended to in the
Southern and some of the Middle States.

APRICOT. 115

and among" these Shipley's is the best. It scarcely dif-
fers from the Apricot Peclie of the French.

ITemsJcirJce. — Like a small moorpark, but with a more
tender and juicy pulp, and with the rich flavor of a
green-gage plum ; kernel small, sweetish. A desirable
early fruit, ripening on an east wall in the end of July,
or beginning of August.

Turkey. — Flowers large ; fruit middle-sized, spheri-
cal, deep yellow ; flesh juicy and rich, parting from the
stone, which Is impervious ; kernel sweet. This is an
excellent late variety.

Besides these, w'e may mention the Large Early, the
White Masculine, Musch-musch, and Royal. The last
is a French variety of recent origin; it is excellent, and
ripens earlier than the moorpark.

Apricots are propagated by budding on muscle or
common plum-stocks.. Mr. Knight recommends the
Avilding apricot as a stock for the Moorpark variety.
Some gardeners have adopted the horizontal form of
training, but the most usual, and certainly the best, is
the common fan arrangeme'nt ; for the taller the tree
the greater the produce of fruit. The fruit is produced
on shoots of the preceding year, and on small close
spurs formed on the two-year-old wood. The apricot
is a tree of much stronger growth than the peach, and
therefore requires more room ; this and the peculiarity
of the spurs being kept in mind, the observations made
on the training and pruning of the peach maybe readily
applied to this tree. It requires a summer and winter
pruning. The former shouM begin early in June, at
wdiich period all irregular fore-right and useless shoots
are to be pinched off"; and, shortly afterwards, those
which remain are to be fastened to the wall, to become

116 FRUIT GARDEN.

bearers. At the winter pruning, all worn-out brandies,
and such as are not duly furnished with spurs and fruit-
buds, are removed. The young bearers are moderately
pruned at the points, care, however, being taken to leave
a terminal shoot or leader to each branch. The most
common error in the pruning of apricots is laying In
the bearing shoots too thickly.

The blossom comes early in spring, but is more hardy
than that of the peach ; the same means of protection,
when n-ecessary, may be employed. The fruit often
sets too numerously ; and in this case it is thinned out
in June and in the beginning of July, the later thin-
nings being used for tarts, for which purpose they are
in much request. In the south of England, apricots
are sometimes trained against espalier rails, and occa-
sionally planted as dwarf standards ; and it is said that
in good seasons the fruit from such trees is more highly
flavored than that from walls. In general, however,
the protection of a wall is required. An east or West
aspect is preferred in England, the full south being apt
to induce mealiness of pulp. In Scotland, the late va-
rieties require the best aspect that can be afforded.

This fruit ripens several weeks earlier than the
peach to which it is allied. The National Convention
of Fruit-growers, in New York, 1849, adopted unani-
mously as of the first quality known in the United
States, the following varieties, viz : The Large Early,
Breda, and Moorpark. The kind known as the peach
apricot was pronounced identical with the Moorpark.

The tendency of .this tree to put out its flowers very
early in the season, and much before the Almond and
Peach, subjects its fruit to great risk from nipping

PLUMS. 117

spring frosts. This difficulty increases in proceeding
from the North to the South.

The Plum-Tree {Primus domestica) is considered by
Sir J. E. Smith as a native of England. Many of the
best cultivated'varieties, however, have been introduced
from France. The Hort. Soe. Catalogue enumerates
274 sorts, though probably all of these are not well
ascertained. We shall first notice a few of the best
dessert plums, and then give a list of select kitchen
sorts.

The G-reen-Gage is the Reine Claude of the French.
Being a great favorite at Paris (as it is everywhere
else) during the ferment of the first Revolution, wbien
all allusions to royalty were proscribed, it retained its
popularity under the title of Prune Citoyenne. It was
introduced into England by the G-age family, and the
foreign name having been lost, it obtained its present
appellation. It is a fruit of first-rate excellence, the
flavor being exquisite. The tree deserves a place
against an east or west wall, where the fruit acquires a
larger size, without materially falling off in richness of
flavor. Treated as a wall tree, it seldom bears well till
it be old; and it is very impatient of -exact training, as
indeed most plums are. In warm situations it may be
properly grown on an espalier-rail, or as a dwarf stand-
ard.

The Braf d' Or is a small yellow plum of high flavor,
ripening in the beginning of September. On a light
soil the tree is a tolerable bearer ; but on a heavy soil
it seldom succeeds. The fruit precedes the green-gage
in ripening, and resembles it in quality.

Goes Golden Drop is a fine large oval plum ; excel-
11

118 FRUIT GARDEN.

lent either for the table or for preserving. It keep^
well, and Mr. Lindlej informs us that he has eaten it
exceedingly good twelve months after it had been ga-
thered. It requires the best aspect of a wall, and will
scarcely answer in a bleak climate.

For standards, Gishorne s Early Plum is one of the
best and most productive that can be recommended,
particularly for the northern portion of Britain.

The same may be said of the Ooul Orleans, a plum
raised by that distinguished horticulturist. Sir George
Stuart Mackenzie, of Coul.

The Precoce de Tours is an early sort ; of a dark
blue color, with a violet bloom ; pulp yellow, and of a
very pleasant flavor. The tree succeeds as a standard.

The Blue Imperatrice is a fine late plum ; the tree is
a good bearer, but requires an east or west wall.

Reine Qlaude Violette, L. Sort. Cat., 232. Purple-
Gage, Lind.j p. 555. — A very high-flavored variety, re-
sembling, color excepted, the green-gage. It succeeds
on standards, but is improved by a wall. The tree is
a good bearer.

Washington, L. Sort. Cat.^ 266 ; Amer. Orchard,
p. 268. — Fruit rather -large, roundish oval, pale yellow
on the shaded side, and of a fine glaucous light purple
on the exposed side ; of excellent quality, little inferior
to the green-gage. The tree is vigorous, and bears well
against a wall, the fruit ripening about the middle of
August. Being an early plum, it will, in favorable
situations, succeed as a standard. It is, as the name
imports, of American origin. It ought to be in every
collection.

Coupers Large Red is a plum of large size, oval ;
suture deeply cleft on one side; skin of .a bluish glau-

PLUMS. 119

cous purple on the exposed side, on the other side dull
red ; flesh firm, adhering to the stone ; ripening in the
beginning of September on a south wall, in Scotland.
Although this is only a fruit of second quality, yet the
tree well merits a place on account of its great pro-
ductiveness.

The following may also be accounted first-rate plums,
and deserving a place against the w^all : — Coe's Late
Red, Downton Imperatrice, Isleworth Imperatrice,
Royale Hative Kirke's Plum, Blue Perdrigon, White
Perdrigon, Ickworth Imperatrice, Early Orleans, White
Magnum Bonum, Mirabelle, and the Dunmore.

The Cheston, Fotheringham, Goliath, Wilmot's
Orleans, La Royale, Sharpe's Emperor of Morocco, and
some of the Damsons, though generally regarded as
only second-rate plums, deserve notice, and should al-
ways be introduced in large gardens, at least as stand-
ards. The Early Yiolet is an excellent bearer, and
strongly recommended by Lindley to be planted in cot-
tage gardens. Lucoiub's Nonsuch plum should not be
omitted ; for when well ripened, it makes an approach
to the green-gage in flavor.

As kitchen and preserving plums we may specify the
common Damson, Shropshire Damson, Imperial Diadem,
Isabella, White Magnum Bonum, Red Magnum Bonum
or Imperiale ; the Caledonia or Nectarine Plum, a large
and handsome fruit ; the St. Catherine, Wine Sour, and
Bullace.

The finer dessert plums are propagated chiefly by
budding on Muscle or St. Julian stocks. They are
sometimes grafted, but gum is apt to break out at the
place of junction. The damson, wine-sour, and other
varieties, planted as standards, are generally increased

120 FRUIT GARDEN.

by suckers, which the old plants afford plentifully. For
placing against walls, trees which have been trained for
two years in the nursery are to be preferred.

Plum-trees require ample space. On common walls
they should be allowed from twenty to twenty-five feet
of breadth over which to extend themselves. The hori-
zontal mode of training is adopted by many. The fan
form is also very commonly followed, and undoubtedly
where there is room it is the best. The shoots ought
to be laid in at full length. The fruit is produced on
small spurs, on branches at least two years old, and the
same spurs continue fruitful for several years.

Standard plum-trees require only to have a portion
of their wood thinned out occasionally while they are
young. The hardy kinds grown in this way are very
productive, and in some places in the north of England
their produce forms a considerable article of food for
several weeks, and also an article of commerce, parti-
cularly the wine-sour, which is in great request for
preserves. It is matter of regret that this branch
of fruit-culture has not, as yet, met with due attention
in Scotland.

The crops of this fruit are greatly limited in the
United States by the destruction of the young fruit
effected by worms hatched from eggs deposited in what
are called the stings of the Curculio. This insect
has been described by Dr. Harris, the celebrated ento-
mologist of Massachusetts, whose account of it, toge-
ther with the best modes of protection from its destruc-
tive attacks, are all treated of at much length in the Far-
mer s and Planter^s Encydoijedia, under the heads of
Curculio and Flum-Tree Weevil, One of the best pre-
ventives is to have the trees paved around, or planted

CHERRIES. 121

in yards and places where fowls and pigs commonly
range.

The list of plums adopted as of the first quality, at
the National Convention of Fruit-growers, at the meet-
ing in New York City, October, 1849, is as follows :—

Jefferson, Green-Gage, Washington, Purple Favorite,
Bleeker's Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, Frost Gage ; and^
for particular localities, the Imperial Gage. To this
list of fruit of well-established reputation, the same
body subsequently added as giving promise of being
worthy a place in the catalogue, the McLaughlin,
River's Favorite, and St. Martin's Quetsche.

The Cherry-Tree [Primus Cerasus) is said to have
been introduced into Italy from Pontus, in Asia, by the
Roman general, Lucullus. From the ^' London cries"
of Lydgate, it appears that ''cherries in the ryse," or
in twiggs, were hawked in London at the beginning of
the fifteenth century. Excellent sorts have at various
times been introduced from the Continent, and, of late
years, several first-rate new varieties have been raised
in England. Geans included, the Horticultural Socie-
ty's Catalogue enumerates no fewer than 219 varie-
ties ; the following may be accounted some of the best.

The Early Purple Grriotte nrny be first mentioned,
as being the earliest of all cherries, sometimes ripen-
ing in the end of May, and generally early in June.
It is not yet generally known in England, but de-
serves cultivation, the fruit being large, of a fine purple
color, and of rich- flavor.

KnighVs Early Black is a large, dark-colored cherry,
of excellent quality, ripening in the end of June.
■ The May Duke is one of the most common, and, at

11*

122 FRUIT GARDEN.

the same time, one of the most valuable cherries. ■ In
fine seasons, and on a good aspect of wall, it begins to
color in May ; and in such situations it is generally
ripe from the middle to the end of June. The tree
also bears •vvell as a dwarf standard,, but against a wall
the fruit gets larger, and does not fall off in flavor.

The Royal Duke is a rich, sweet cherry, with most
of the qualities of a May Duke. On a standard it
ripens in August.

Bigarreau^ or Cfraffion. — This is an excellent fruit,
especially when it gets the protection of a wall. In
the cherry orchards of England this sort is now pretty
extensively cultivated, the fruit meeting with a ready
sale, and vast quantities being required for the London
market.

Harrison 8 Heart is nearly allied to the Bigarreau ;
it is rather of larger size and of fine appearance in the
dessert, but inferior in flavor. The fruit has this ad-
vantage, that it is not liable to crack in wet weather.

Belle de Clioisy, an excellent cherry. The fruit come
in pairs, red, mottled with amber color, tender and
sweet. The tree bears well as a standard.

Black Tartarian^ or Ronald's Black Heart, L. Hort.
Cat., 198 ; Lind., p. 149. Fruit large, obtuse heart-
shaped ; flesh half tender. " The quality is good, and
in appearance it is one of the finest." The tree is a
good bearer, and well adapted for forcing. -

Waterloo. — Raised by a daughter of Mr. Knight from
the Bigarreau and May Duke. Fruit black, large, ob-
tuse heart-shaped, pulp tender. It ripens in July, and
the tree is a free bearer.

Elton. — Raised by Mr. Knight from the Bigarreau
and White Heart. Fruit large, heart-shaped, pale red.

CHERRIES. 123

with a sweet, delicious juice. The tree is a good bearer
and hardy ; the fruit ripens shortly after the May
Duke.

Kentish Cherry. — One of the oldest and most pre-
valent cherries of England, abounding in the orchards
of Kent. When ripe it is of a full red color, and its
subacid flavor is very agreeable. It is commonly
grown on standards, and ripens in the end of July.
The Hort, Oat. distinguishes this from the Flemish or
short-stalked, also a good cherry, to which it is cer-
tainly closely allied.

The 3Iorello. — This is a well-known late cherry,
much in request for confectionery. The tree is a co-
pious bearer, and on a south wall the fruit acquires a
peculiarly rich subacid flavor. It succeeds perfectly
well on a north aspect," where its fruit may be retarded
to the end of October.

The Amher, or yellow Spanish, is a late fruit, and
useful in prolonging the cherry season till the begin-
ning of September. It requires a west wall.

Among other excellent varieties may be mentioned
the Black Eagle, the Black Heart, Bowyer's Early
Heart, Carnation, Downton, Florence, and the White
Heart.

What, are called geans or guignes are cherries less
removed from their natural state. The trees are gene-
rally treated as standards, and bear abundantly, parti-
cularly when old. The principal, sorts are the Amber
gean, a plentiful bearer, with sweet tender fruit ; and
the Lundie gean, bearing a small black cherry of high
flavor. This variety originated at the ancient seat of
the Erskines in Forfarshire, but is sometimes called

124 FRUIT GARDEN.

the Polton gean, from a place near Lasswade in Mid-
Lothian.

It may be noticed that, in the Jardin des Plantes, at
Paris, the black-fruited cherry-tree, or Cruignier/is con-
sidered as a variety of Prunus Cerasus. The forest
cherry-tree, P. avium, is named Blerisier ; and, besides
varieties with red and with black fruit, there is a
marked variety called Bigarotier.

The great quantities of pale-colored cherries yearly
sold in the London market are generally the kinds
called White Heart and Bigarreau. The dark-colored
cherries are chiefly the Courone, which is often passed
upon buyers for the Black Heart. What is called
Adams' Courone resembles a small May Duke, and is
nearly as good, while the tree is a plentiful bearer.

The stock preferred for ch-erries is the wild gean.
Mr. Lindley recommends that dwarf cherry-trees should
be grafted, and two or three year old stocks will do
for them. For standard trees the stocks should be at
least four years old, and they should be budded or
grafted five or six feet from the ground. High stem-
med cherry-trees, or riders, are often temporarily em-
ployed to fill up the vacant spaces on newly-planted
south walls till the dwarf trees make sufficient pro-
gress ; for these, stocks six or seven feet high are re-
quired. For dwarf cherry-trees, the best stocks are
procured from the Prunus (or Cerasus) Mahaleb, the
sweet-scented cherry.

Cherries are generally produced on small spurs
which appear on the wood of the second year, and
these spurs continue productive for an indefinite period.
Any form of training may therefore be adopted ; but,
as the fruit is always finest on young spurs, perhaps

CHERRIES. 125

fan-training, which admits of the frequent renovation
of the bearing branches, is the most advantageous. A
succession of young shoots should be laid in every
year. For the Morello, which is of a twiggy growth,
and bears on the young wood, the fan form is abso-
lutely necessary. Whatever method be adopted for
general practice, care should be taken not to crowd the
branches; for nothing is more unfavorable to the
productiveness of the trees than over-crowding of
branches.

The Prunus Marasca, from the fruit of which is pre-
pared the celebrated liqueur called Maraschina di Zara,
is a native of Dalmatia, and would doubtless succeed in
Britain and America if fairly tried.

We often find terms adopted to designate diiferent
kinds of cherries, which it will be useful to understand.
Of upwards of 200 varieties of the cherry in cultivation,
the French usually make three general divisions, or
classes, namely, G-riottes, or the tender-fleshed ; Bigar-
reaus, or heart-shaped ; and Gfuignes, or Geans,
small-fruited. The Morello has characteristics such as
the peculiar form and lowness of the tree, appearance
and character of its fruit, and length of time it hangs
upon the branches after maturing., all of which serve to
distinguish it from other kinds of the cherry family.
Dwarf cherry-trees are procured either by grafting upon
Morellos or the Mahaleb, or sweet-blossomed cherry.
Large standards are generally engrafted on the second
year's growth from the seeds of Mazzards, a name de-
signating a kind of small black cherry.

The National Convention of Fruit-growers, which
met in the city of New York in 1848, recommended the
following varieties of cherries as of the best quality and

126 FRUIT GARDEN.

most deserving of cultivation in the Union. Ripening
in June : May DuJce, Kniglifs Early Black. In July:
Black Tartarian^ Black Eagle^ Graffion, or BlgarreaUy
DoiV7ier's Late, EltoUy Dowhton. The Belle 3Iagnifique
■was added to this last at the meeting of the same body
in 1849.

The Pear-Tree {Pyrus communis) is considered by
botanists as a native of England. Many cultivated
varieties seem to have been introduced by the monks ;
remains of perry orchards attached to monasteries of
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries being'not uncom-
mon even in Scotland, and very ancient trees of the
finer dessert pears, such as the Colmar and Longue-
ville, occasionally occurring.

The list of cultivated pears amounts to more than
600 names ; but the number of those truly desirable is
not large. We shall specify some of what are con-
sidered in England the best dessert fruit, following the
usual division of Early and Late ; the former class
being in season in England in the months of August,
September, and October, and the latter in November,
December, and January. It is only a few years since
pears fit for the dessert inr January were known in
Britain ; such as the Glout morceau, the Easter Beurrd
and the Winter Beurr^ ; and they deserve the best
attention of horticulturists. It is to be premised, how-
ever, that even within the limits of Britain climate
makes an important difference in the culture and ripen-
ing of pears, of which a remarkable and extreme ex-
ample may be seen in the Chaumontelle — a fruit which
is produced abundantly and ripened on standards in

PEARS. 127

the south-west of England, and even in the environs of
London, while it requires a south wall near Edinburgh.

• 1. Earlij.

Citron des Carmes, L. Kort. Oat., 190 ; 31acleleme,
Lind., p, 344; in Scotland often called the Premature.
This is the earliest pear; it ripens in July, acquiring
a yellowish-green color ; it is sweet, but without much
flavor. One tree, or at most two trees, may suflBce.
It requires in the English climate a sheltered situation.

The Green Ohisel, called also the Hastings, Pear
James, or Green Sugar. This is not a first-rate pear;
but the tree is hardy and a great bearer. It ripens in
August.

The Summer Hose. — A handsome round pear, of a
russety-red color, much resembling an apple, flesh
white, rich and sugary. This is an excellent variety,
succeeds on a standard, and ripens in August.

The Bishop's Thumb is a hardy orchard pear of good
quality, and the tree ^is a free bearer. The fruit con-
siderably res^embles the muirfowl egg, but is earlier.

The Jargonelle of Britain is the Grosse Cuisse Ma-
dame of French horticultural writers, and the Epargne
and Baupresent of Erench practical gardeners. This
is the most common and most esteemed of our early
autumn pears. Against a wall the fruit attains a
large size and a beautiful appearance ; but it is not of
so high a flavor as from standards or espalier rails.
The fruit does not keep well, and the tree should
therefore be planted in various situations to prolong
its season, as it is rather difiQcult, when it disappears,
immediately to supply its place in the dessert. Beau-
tiful dwarf trees may be formed by grafting on the

128 FRUIT GARDEN.

common white tliorn, which, however, are not very
patient of transplanting. The French jargonelle is
green on one side and red on the other, and is a fruit
of inferior quality.

The Mnanas d'Ete is scarcely noticed by our horti-
cultural writers ; but it seems a good variety to suc-
ceed the jargonelle. In the Experimental Garden at
Edinburgh it ripens on a standard in the second week
of September. It is of middle size, about two and a
half inches broad, tapering a little, towards the stalk,
round at the top, eye small, slightly sunk in a cavity ;
red on the exposed side, green, and somewhat russety
on the other ; flesh white, melting, with a pleasant
sweet juice. Sometimes called King William Pear.

The Summer Francreal^ or the Yat of Holland, may
be noticed as another pear to follow the jargonelle, as
it ripens about the middle of September. The tree
proves, in general, a great bearer.

The LongueviUe. — Some very ancient trees of this
variety exist at Jedburgh ; and in the garden of the
Regent Murray at Edinburgh there are several which
apparently are coeval with the times of the Regency.
Though the name is now unknown in France, it is con-
jectured that the tree was brought over from that
country by the Douglas, when Lord of LongueviUe, in
the fifteenth century. The fruit is large, of a thick
conical shape, green, and of considerable flavor. It
ripens in September.

The G-reen Pear of Yair. This variety is of Scottish
origin. The fruit is obovate, green, and of a middle
size ; flesh juicy and well-flavored. It is sometimes
placed against a wall to succeed the jargonelle ; but it
is always better from standards. On old trees, in light

PEARS. 129

soils, it sometimes acquires a lemon color, with a high
musky flavor. Ripens in September and October.

The Duliamel is a good autumn pear, with a delicate
flavor. From a wall it comes in immediately after
the green yair, and helps to fill up a gap in the pear
season, especially in Scotland ; standards produce free-
ly, and their fruit is ready in December.

The Sechle^ of American origin, deserves a place ; for
the tree is of dwarfish size, and suited for a border
standard, and it seldom fails to yield a crop. The
fruit is small, but melting and perfumed. It does not
keep.

Feast's Seedling^ raised from the seckle, is likewise a
fine early sort, of American origin.

The White Doyenne. — This is an excellent sort, when
used at its perfection. In warm situations it is well
adapted for dwarf standards. Ripens in September and
October.

The Bed Doyenne^ or, as it is sometimes called. Gray
Doyenne, is also an excellent autumn pear, succeeding
best on a quince stock.

The Elton. — Capital as a standard, and strongly re-
commended by Mr. Knight. The tree produces healthy
wood, and the fruit ripens in September and October.

The Em^ly Bergamot was introduced from France in
1820. It is one of the very best early pears, as the tree
bears freely as an open standard.

The Autumn Bergamot, or English Bergamot, has
been long known as one of the most highly-flavored
pears. It is not the Bergamotte d'Autgmne of the
French, which is liable to canker in this country, while
the English bergamot is not. In England the tree
succeeds perfectly well as a standard ; in Scotland it
12

130 FRUIT GARDEN.

answers in good seasons, but there it is deserving of a
west wall. The fruit is of a depressed globular shape,
not large ; the flesh juicj, sugary, and rich, a little grit-
ty next the core. It ripens towards the end of October,
but does not keep.

The Va7i Mons Leon Leclerc is one of the newest and
best autumn pears, ripening from the middle to the end
of October. It is of the size and shape of the Duchesse
d'Angouleme; sugary, and with ricTi pine-apple flavor.

To the list of summer and early autumn pears might
be added the Musk Robine, Summer Francreal, Sum-
mer Bonchretien and Wilbraham Bonchretien, generally
requiring the protection of a wall ; and the Lammas
Pear of Scotland, "soon ripe, soon rotten," which suc-
ceeds perfectly well on open standards; Ambrosia, Belle
et Bonne, Beurre d'Amalis, Caillot Rosat, and the Hazel
Pear.

2. Late.

The Broivn Beurre (Red and Gray Buerre of various
authors) is a first-rate melting pear. Against a wall
with a good aspect, and with a fresh soil, the tree is an
abundant bearer. Ripens in October and November.
A variety raised at Dunmore, and called the Dunmore
Brown Beurre, is hardy, and produces freely as a
standard, but about a month later.

The Beurre de Capiaumont is one of the best new
Flemish varieties. The fruit is melting and well-fla-
vored, and ripens in October and November. The tree
is a great and constant bearer, and hardy, answering
equally well as a wall-tree or a standard.

The Muirfo'wl Egg. — There are two varieties, both of

PEARS. 131

Scottish origin, of which the Galston Muirfowl Egg is
the best. The fruit is not attractive in appearance,
but it is of admirable quality. The tree is hardy, and
should be grown as a standard.

The GranseVs Bergamot (sometimes called Brocas
Bergamot). — This noble pear, which has scarcely been
rivaled, certainly not surpassed, by any of the imported
varieties, is of English origin. Its blossoms are too
tender to enable the tree to succeed as a standard; but
it deserves a wall, and it should be placed on various
aspects to prolong its season. It almost always blos-
soms freely ; but frequently proves shy in setting :
thinning the blossom is found advantageous. The fruit
ripens in November and December.

The Marie Louise. — This excellent and large pear
w^as raised by the Abbe Duquesne, and named after the
Empress in the time of Bonaparte. "It is," says Mr.
Thompson, " one of the very finest, even as a standard,
bearing abundantly ; it succeeds also well on the north
wall." In Scotland it is the better for an east or west
aspect ; but on a standard in a sheltered garden at
Luffness, East Lothian, the fruit has attained the weight
of fifteen ounces, and it has been produced of excellent
quality from standards in the orchard of the Horticul-
tural Society's Garden at Edinburgh. Against a wall
in Scotland, it ripens in October and November, and
on standards in November and December ; in England,
it is from a month to six weeks earlier. The tree seems
nowise liable to canker.

The Forme de 3Iarie Louise is an excellent standard
pear, though considerably smaller than the other. In
Scotland it ripens freely in October and November.

132 FRUIT GARDEN.

The Dumnore Pear comes into use before the Marie
Louise, and is nearly of equal excellence.

Taylor''8 Seedling^ raised at Dunmore, is a good
pear, and so hardy as to succeed quite well as a 3tand-
ard.

Napoleon, of excellent quality ; from a wall in No-
vember and December; and in January from standards,
on which it bears freely.

DucJiesse d'Angouleme (or Precelf), a very large and
showy fruit, requiring a wall ; good in January and
February, and therefore valuable for lateness.

BuerrS d'Jiremherg, — This pear, if carefully kept in
the fruit-room, will, in January, be found perfectly
melting and without grittiness, and rich, sweet, and
high-flavored. The tree is hardy, succeeding against
an east or a west wall, or as a standard in any shelter-
ed situation, and bearing freely.

The Qrasanne is an old French sort, of excellent
quality, with a tender and finely-flavored pulp. The
tree deserves a south or west aspect on a wall, and it
succeeds also on an espalier rail. The fruit ripens in
November and December.

The Althorp Crasanne is a first-rate pear, raised by
Mr. Knight, ripening in October and November ; flesh
melting, rich, and with a fine rose-water flavor. Suc-
ceeds on an east or west wall, or on standards in good
situations ; the fruit from standards being highest fla-
vored.

The Urhaniste (often called Beurre Spence) is of a
large size, flesh melting, with a sweet, well-flavored
juice, and may be regarded as one of the very best
pears. In Scotland ripens against a south wall in Oc-
tober ; on standards in November.

PEARS. 133

The Colmar is also a first-rate pear, with a white
flesh, and of high flavor. In Scotland the tree requires
a south or west wall. From this the Poire d'Auch of
the Continent seems scarcely to "differ. It keeps till
February or March.

The Passe Qolmar is an admirable Flemish variety
lately introduced into this country; of excellent flavor;
hardier, and a more abundant bearer than the preceding,
and more easily ripened, either against walls or on
standards. It seems well adapted for flat espaliers.
The fruit is in maturity in December and January, and
extends into February.

Poire Neille was raised by M. Von Mons, of Louvain,
about the time of the visit of the Caledonian Horticul-
tural Society's deputation to Belgium (in 1817). It is
allied to the Colmars, with a very white pulp, mellow,
and saccharine and slightly musky juice. It is in sea-
son during the month of October, and should be gath-
ered a few days before it be ripe. The tree succeeds as
a standard at Edinburgh, bearing freely ; and Mr. Mat-
thew of Gourdieliill regards it as an acquisition to the
orchards of the Carse of Gowrie, being calculated to
follow the Hazel pear, equally productive, and superior
in size and quality.

1h.Q Ghut Morceau (orBeu-rr^ d'Hardenpont) is excel-
lent, from a wall, in December and January. It has
also been found successful as a standard.

The Wiyiter .Beurre is in season in January and
February. The Ne plus Meuris is good on standards,
and keeps till March, and the tree is a free bearer.

The Easter Beurre. — Fruit largCj obovate, green and
brown ; flesh whitish-yellow, melting, and well flavored.
" It is," says Mr. Thompson, " hardy, and agoodbear-

12*

134 FRUIT GARDEN.

er ; one of the most valuable spring sorts, compared
with which the early pears of short duration deserve not
a wall ; its extensive cultivation for a long and late sup-
ply is, without hesitation, strongly recommended." In
season from January to March. As the tree ripens its
wood readily, it succeeds as a low standard, or trained
to an espalier rail, even in Scotland. But the experi-
ence of gardeners in the north does not lead them to
rank the fruit so high as Mr. Thompson does, as, when
trained against a south wall, it often proves dry or
mealy with little flavor.

Beurre Diel (named after a distinguished German
pomologist) is a large handsome fruit, of the first quality,
coming in season in November and December from the
wall, and in January from standards. Mr. Thompson
remarks that its branches should be kept rather thin, its
large and abundant foliage being apt to prevent the due
admission of sun and air to the fruit.

Beurre Ilance, or de Ranz. A Flemish variety, raised
by the late M. Hardenpont, and sometimes called Har-
denpont du printemps; "the best very late sort yet
known," [Sort, Cat.) It ripens with difiSculty in Scot-
land, requiring a south or west wall; but was found to
be the best pear produced in competition at a March
meeting of the Caledonian Horticultural Society. It
resembles the colmars, but keeps longer.

The following, respecting which our limits will not
permit us to go into detail, may be considered highly
valuable sorts as late autumnal and winter pears ; Au-
tumn Colmar, Aston-town, Echassery, Delices d'llard-
enppnt, Fondante d'Automne, Beurr^ Bosc, Duhamel,
Bezi de la Motte, Chaumontelle, Sylvange, Downton,
Louise Bonne of Jersey, Swiss Bergamot, Bezi de

PEARS. 135

Quesnoi, Hacon's Incomparable, Winter Nelis, Black
Auchan, Swan Egg, Doyenn^ gris, and Flemish Beauty.
The St. Germain and Windsor may be added ; but the
trees are rather liable to canker.

The Forelle is one of the most beautiful pears ; but
it is deficient in .the more essential quality of flavor.

The late Mr. Knight of Downton raised the following
new varieties, which are justly held in high repute:
Monarch, March Bergamot, Pengethly, Eyewood, Moc-
cas. Brougham, Oakley Park, Croft Castle, and the
Broompark, which last is not only excellent, but re-
markably hardy.

Of the Kitchen Sorts, or stewing pears, we may name
the Double-fleur, Orange d'Hiver, Bellisime d'Hiver,
Catillac, Uvedale's St. Germain or Belle de Jersey,
Warden or Black Worcester, Gros de Lyons, and the
Gilogil. The trees are placed against inferior walls, or
trained to espalier rails, or kept as dwarf standards.
The Uvedale's St. Germain fruit often attains a very
large size, especially against a wall ; but the Double-
fleur is equal in size, and superior in quality.

Pear-trees are grafted either on what are called free-
stocks, or on dwarfing-stocks ; for the former, which are
intended for full-sized trees, the seeds of the wilding-
pear should be sown; but frequently the pips of the
perry-pears, and sometimes of the common cultivated
sorts, are used. For dwarfing the quince is preferred ;
but the white thorn, as already mentioned, is occasion-
ally, employed. Where the space is limited, or the
ground is damp, the dwarfing-stocks are the more suita-
ble. It is a favorite doctrine with some, that by bud-
ding or grafting on quince or hawthorn, pears of too
melting and sugary a quality acquire firmness and

136 FRUIT GARDEN.

acidity. To what extent this hohls good has not been
correctly ascertained, but that the stock exerts a certain
degree of influence on the fruit is beyond dispute. Some
of the- finer pears do not take so readily on the quince:
in this case double working is resorted to. For exam-
ple, the Virgouleuse maybe easily budded on the quince,
and the Beurrd d'Aremberg will afterwards succeed
freely only on the Virgouleuse. It may be mentioned,
in passing, that the ancient horticulturists seem to have
supposed that a fruit was improved by double working;
and that the term reinette, a name applied to a class of
apples, is considered as having been derived from the
Latin renata, that is, a tree grafted upon itself.

In selecting young pear-trees, some prefer maide^i
plants, that is, plants having the growth of one year
from the graft; but if good trees, trained for two or
three years, can be procured, so much the better. It is
important to ascertain that the stock and stem be clean
and healthy, and t^ take great care that no injury be
done by bruising or tearing the roots in lifting and re-
moving. The young trees may be planted at any time,
in tnild'weather, from the fall of the leaf to the begin-
ning of March; Wall-tree& require from 25 to 30 feet
of lineal space when on free-stocks, and from 15 to 20
feet when dwarfed. Standards on free-stocks in the
orchard should be allowed at- least 30 feet every way,
while for dwarfs 15 feet may suffice. When the trees
are trained en pyramide or en quenouille^ they may
stand within eight feet of each other. It is- very de-
sirable that the pear orchard should be in a warm &itua-
tion, with a soil deep, substantial, and well drained, or
free from injurious latent moisture. Without attention
to these circumstances, pear-trees seldom succeed.

• PEARS. 137

The fruit is produced on spurs, whicli appear on
shoots more than one year old ; the object of the pruner,
therefore, ought to be to procure a fair supply of these
spurs. The mode of training wall pear-trees most
commonly adopted is the horizontal ; but each of the
forms already mentioned (pp. 52, 53) has its advan-
tages, and is peculiarly adapted to some particular
habit of growth in the several varieties. For the St.
Germain and other twiggy sorts, the fan form is to be
preferred ; for the Gansel's Bergamot and other strong
growers, the half-fan or the horizontal. In the latter
form the trees may often be found fifteen, twenty, or
even thirty years old, during which time they acquire
an undue projection from the wall, and become scraggy
and unmanageable. On the other hand, the finest fruit
is produced on young spurs, clearly indicating the neces-
sity of a frequent renovation of the spurs. This would
lead to a preference of the fan-form, not, indeed, that
which is commonly practiced, for in it the spurs are as
immovable as in any other arrangement; but rather that
recommended for peaches, in which there is a continual
renewal of the branches. Or, if the horizontal form,
which has certain advantages, be adopted, it should be
that modification exhibited in p. 53 h. This is the
method followed by Harrison in treating the Jargonelle.

The summer pruning of established wall or espalier
rail-trees, consists chiefly in the timely displacing or
rubbing off the superfluous shoots, retaining only those
which are terminal or well placed for lateral branches.
Where spurs are wanted on the older wood, about two
inches of a fore-right shoot are left ; and if this be done
early, that is, before the shoot has become ligneous, it
seldom fails to form fruit-buds. In horizontal training

138 FRUIT GARDEN.

the winter pruning is nothing more than adjusting the
leading shoots and thinning out the spurs, which should,
be kept close to the wall and allowed to retain only
two, or at most three buds. In fan-training the sub-
ordinate branches must be regulated, the spurs thinned
out, and the young laterals which had been loosely
nailed in during summer must be finally established in
their places. 'No crowding of branches should be per-
mitted. When horizontal trees have fallen into disor-
der they may be renovated in the manner represented
at p. 53 a, a procedure patronized by Mr. Knight ; or
ail the branches may be cut back to within nine inches
of the vertical stem and branch, and trained in afresh,
as recommended by Mr. Lindley.

When some of the finer pear-trees produce an abun-
dance of blossom, but do not set well, as not unfrequently
happens, artificial impregnation may be partially re-
sorted to ; that is, the blossom of some other kind of
pear, plentifully provided with pollen, may be taken,
and the farina dusted over the best looking blossoms of
the less productive tree.

Summer and autumn pears should be gathered before
they be fully ripe, otherwise they will not in' general
keep more than a few days. The Jargonelle, as Forsyth
rightly advises, should be allowed to remain on the tree
and pulled daily as wanted, the standard fruit thus suc-
ceeding the produce of the wall-trees. In reference to
the Crasanne, Mr. Lindley recommends gathering the
crop at three diiferent times, the first a fortnight or
more before it be ripe, the second a week or ten days
after, and a third when fully ripe. The first gathering
will come into eating latest, and thus the season of the
fruit fiiay be considerably prolonged. It is evident

PEARS. 139

that the same method may be followed with the Brown
Beurrd, Gansel's Bergamot, and any others which con-
'tinue only a short time in a mature state.

The varieties, qualities, and relative merits of this
fruit seem to have drawn very particular attention from
the National Congress of Fruit-growers, which met in
the city of New York in 1848, 1849, and adopted t)ie
following list, as including those of the highest merits,
viz: The Madeleine, Dearborn's Seedling, Bloodgood,
Tyson, Golden Beurr^ of Bilboa, Bartlett, Williams's
Bon Chretien, or Bartlett, Seckel, Flemish Beauty,
Beurr^ Bosc, Winter Nelis, Beurre d'Aremberg, Ros-
tiezer. Belle Lucratif, or Fondante d'Automne, Fulton,
Andrews, Buffum, Urbaniste, Yicar of Winkfield (or
Le Cure), Louise Bonne de Jersey, and for baking,
Uvedale's St. Germain. For particular localities, the
White Doyenne and Gray Doyenn^, commonly known
as Butter Pears.

To this list of pears of highest qualities, the same
body added the following, as giving promise of being
worthy to be placed on the list recommended for gene-
ral cultivation : —

Duchesse d'Orleans, Brandywine, Chancellor, Doy-
enne d'Et^, Beurr^ d'Anjou, Manning's Elizabeth,
Brande's St. Germain, Pratt, Ott, Striped Madeleine,
Annana's d'Ete^ Jalousie de Fontenay Vendue, Van
Assend, Doyenn(i Boussock.

It is worthy of notice that some of the very best pears
known in the United States have originated in the vi-
cinity of the city of Philadelphia; as, for example, the
far-renowned Seckel, the W^ashington, the Ott, the
Tyson, and the Chancellor.

Grafted on the Quince, the Pear-tree docs • not gene-

140 FRUIT GARDEN.

rally live long in the United States, especially wliere
the soil is dry, as the quince succeeds best in a moist
loamy soil, and pears grafted upon their stalks ^yould
dotfbtless also do far better on such soils than "VN^hen
placed in sandy, gravelly, or other dry situations.

The Apple-tree [Pyrus Malm) is, under the name
of the Crab, known as a native of Britain. Most of the
cultivated sorts, however, are of foreign origin, and it
does not seem probable that. we possess at present any
good variety which is more than two hundred years old.
The finer high-flavored apples are prized for the
dessert; the juicy and poignant sorts are in request for
tarts and sauce ; while those of a more austere nature
are manufactured into cider. In the second edition of
the London Hort. Society's Catalogue, no fewer than
1400 varieties are enumerated; many of them doubtless
not well ascertained, but about 175 are pronounced to
be excellent sorts. With such a multitude before us, it
would b^ vain to attempt detailed descriptions ; we
shall therefore do little more than give a classified list
of those most worthy of attention, referring the reader
for further i-nformation to the Catalogue itself, to Mr.
Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Kitchen Crarden^
and to Mr. Rogers' Fj^uit Cultivator ^ and to the nume-
rous publications on fruit-trees that have issued from
the American press.

Table Aiiples.
The earliest of these are the following : — The Juneat-
ing, or White Geniton, which, in the climate of Eng-
land, begins to ripen in the end of July, and being
sugary and slightly perfumed, forms a welcome addi-

APPLES. 141

tion to the dessert. The Early Margaret is often cul-
tivated ; it is sometimes called Red Juneating or Striped
Juneating, and in Ireland Peach Apple. The Summer
Crofton, or White Crofton, is of Irish origin; the tree
hears abundantly, and if the fruit be scarcely equal to
the Juneatings for the dessert, it is very desirable for
culinary purposes in August. The Summer Thorle,
originating in the Carse of Gowrie, is an early apple of
considerable merit, although not mentioned by Mr.
Lindley. The Oslin or Arbroath Pippin, and the Early
Julien of Clydesdale, also deserve notice. The Sum-
mer Golden Pippin, the Red Quarrenden of Devon-
shire, and the Early Harvest, are likewise excellent
early dessert apples.

To succeed these in the autumn we have many fine
sorts, such as the Early Nonpareil or Hick's Fancy,
having a lively juice ; the Doonside, a capital Ayrshire
production, the tree being at the same time hardy and
very productive ; Autumn Pearmain or Royal Pearmain
of the London nurseries; Shepherd's Fame; Baird's
Favorite ; White Astrachan ; Mac-lean's Favorite ;
Pearson's Plate; Pomme de Niege, and Bourassa;
Franklin's Golden Pippin, fruit not equal to the Old
Golden Pippin, but the tree more productive ; Old
Golden Pippin ; King of the Pippins or Hampshire
Yellow, a valuable sort; Plfease Lady; Kerry Pippin,
one of the finest Irish apples ; and the Cole Apple or
Scarlet perfumed. The Lady Wemyss of Fifeshire is
suited either for dessert or kitchen use, and the tree is
a free bearer. Leisham's Pippin, a large fruit ; Long-
ville's Kernel, of good quality.

The winter dessert apples are very numerous, so that
only a few can be mentioned. TheRibstone Pippin has
13

142 FRUIT GARDEN.

long maintain-ed a pre-eminent character for its rich
juiciness and highly aromatic flavor. If the tree be
trained to a wall, the fruit is much improved in size
and beauty ; but Mr. Rogers is wrong in thinking thai;
it is thereby heightened in flavor : the flavor, on the
contrary, being deteriorated. The Ribstone is an old
variety ; and there is reason to fear that, like the Gray
Leadington (formerly the boast of Scottish orchards),
it is verging to decay and extinction. Hubbard's Pear-
main is a Norfolk apple of the very finest quality, and
too little known, especially in Scotland ; the tree does
not grow large, is quite hardy, and an abundant bearer,
either as a standard or when trained to an espalier
rail. The Dutch Mignonne is another admirable" des-
sert apple, too little known or attended to. The Golden
Harvy, or Brandy Apple of Forsyth, .is a beautiful
though small fruit, and Mr. Lindley characterizes it as
rich, juicy, spicy, and high-flavored : the tree is not a
large grower, is very hardy, and a great and constant
bearer; and no garden, adds Mr. Lindley, "capable of
containing ten trees, ought to be without one of it."
The Downton Pippin, raised by Mr. Knight from the
Orange Pippin of Herefordshire, dusted with the pollen
of the Old Golden Pippin, must not be omitted. The
tree is a great bearer ; the fruit ripens in the end of
October and keeps' till January; it has a brisk, subacid
juice, which becomes saccharine". The fruit should not
be gathered until it has acquired a bright yellow co-
lor, and parts freely from the tree. The Yellow In-
gestrie, raised by the same gentleman, is likewise excel-
lent. To these may be added the Beachamwell ; Bors-
doff^er ; Court of Wick Pippin, excclWnt, though of small
size; Wood's Transparent; Margill; Scarlet Crofton ;

KITCHEN APPLES. 143

Golden Pearmtiin ; Scarlet Pearmain ; Dutch Mignonne ;
Fearn's Pippin ; Gravenstein ; Paradise Pippin ; Old
Nonpareil ; Ross Nonpareil ; Braddick's Nonpareil,
very fertile; Scarlet Nonpareil; Pitmaston Nonpareil ;^
Sturmer Pippin ; Kirke's Golden Rennet ; Reinette de
Canada ; Skyeho.use Russet; Cornish Aromatic, of first-
rate quality; and the Sam Young, an excellent Irish
apple brought into notice by Mr. Roberston of Kilkenny.
The Courtpendu plat is a capital winter dessert fruit :
the tree is hardy and productive, and the blossom being
late in expanding,- it is a kind well adapted for cold situa-
tions. The Norfolk Beaufin is the best apple for drying
and preserving, making an excellent winter preserve.

Of American apples, the best for our climate is the
Boston Russet. Mr. Thompson states that the tree is
quite hardy, very productive, and suitable for dwarf
training ; the fruit juicy, with a flavor between that of
the Rribstone and Nonpareil, and in season from Decem-
ber till April. The Newton, or Long Island Pippin,
seldom com-es to perfection in Britain.

Kitchen Apples,
or such as are chiefly used for tarts or for sauce, are
very numerous, and the names of a few of the best can
only be given. .We begin with the Scottish Hawthorn-
den ; though the tree is liable to canker, yet it comes
early into bearing, and the fruit is excellent. The Cod-
lins may be next named, particularly the Spring Grove,
the Kentish or Fillbasket, the Keswick, the Dutch, and
the Manks. The Red Fulwood, the Nonsuch, Minshul
Crab, Hanwell Scouring, Cat's Head, Alexander Bra-
bant, AVheeler's Russet, Blenheim Orange, Ilunthouse
of Yorkshire, and Forman's Crewe, all are good. The

144 FRUIT GARDEN.

Bedfordshire Foundling is a large and handsome apple,
and the tree a sure bearer. The Cellini is a good
kitchen apple, for November, the tree hardy and very
productive, and the fruit beautiful. Among the best
long-keeping apples are the Scottish Gogar Pippin,
sometimes called Moncreiff Pippin, or Stone Pippin ;
Alfriston ; Wormsley Pippin ; and the Yorkshire
Greening and Northern Greening, particularly the lat-
ter; Baxter's Pearmain; Winter Strawberry Apple;
the Tulip, a small Dutch fruit, of a dark p^d color,
and with a lively juice ; Bellefleur of Brabant ; Calvill's
Malingre; Dutch Mignonne ; Winter Lud ; Pentcait-
land Pippin; Cambusnethan Pippin; the Alderston
Pippin of East Lothian. The . Cockle Pippin or Nut-
meg Apple, an excellent apple, and the tree a fertile
bearer ; the Wellington, otherwise called Dumelow's
Seedling, is a very juicy- kitchen apple, and keeps &m
till April, and the tree i« not liable to canker. The
Green Fulwood of Mr. Matthew is a good kitchen apple,
and keeps till May. The same may be said of the
Hoary Morning, and the tree is a great bearer. The
Cockpit is a useful culinary apple for winter ; the tree
hardy and a great bearer. The New Cockpit is an ex-
cellent apple, remarkably perfumed. An apple, called
the French Crab (but which is of a considerable size,
notwithstanding this name), keeps firm in substance. till
the return of the apple season; and the sub variety of
this, called Hambledon's or Deux-ans, is described in
Ronalds' Pomona as still superior. Several apples of
Scottish origin are of great merit, though not recognized
in the writings of Lindley or Rogers ; such as the Pow
Captain, the Kinnoul Codling, Tarn Montgomery, and
the Tower of Glan^mis-.

APPLES. 145

Some excellent new varieties of, apples have of late
years been produced both in England and Scotland.
Mr. Hardy of Bothkenner, by crossing the Court of Wick
Pippin with the Nonpareil, ha? raised seedlings partak-
ing of the good qualities of both parents, and these have
received the warmest approval of the Scottish Horticul-
tural Society.

It may be mentioned, that information respecting the
fruits cultivated for the manufacture of cider and perry
may be obtained in the Pomona Herefordiensis, pub-
lished by Mr. Knight, and illustrated with engravings
by the late Mr. W. Hooker. Cider is principally made
in Herefordshire and Gloucestershire, which are called
the cider counties ; but much also is produced in Devon-
shire. For the encouragement of its manufacture in
Scotland, premiums have been offered by the Caledonian
Horticultural Society, but little good Scottish cider has
hitherto appeared.

Several kinds of stocks are used for apple-trees. The
Dutch Paradise, propagated by layers, has long been
used as a stock for Dwarf apple-trees, whether intended
for the wall or for standards. The Doucin of the French
seems closely allied to this, if not identical with it. The
bur-knot varieties inx^reased by cuttings, or young cod-
lin plants procured from layers, furnish convenient
stocks for trees from which it is hoped to procure desir-
able seedlings. For common purposes, the stocks raised
from the pips of crabs or of cider apples are preferred.
Stocks kept one or two years in nursery-lines are fit for
grafjting upon ; but if- a considerably tall steni be
wished, they must remain three or four years in the
nursery, and be pruned up, till they attain five or six
feet of height. In the Dutch nurseries, where apple-

13*

146 FRUIT GARDEN.

trees arc trained for some years to the cup-shape, the
table, the pyramidal, or the bulb forms, before they be
sold to the public, the trees are repeatedly transplant-
ed ; but with us, where such forms are less sought after,
the utility of more transplantations than from the seed-
bed to the nursery-lines, and thence to the garden,
may, in Mr. Knight's opinion, be questioned. Any
common soil, provided the subsoil be dry, suits the
apple-tree. Shallow planting should, in all cases, be
practiced, and young trees should be carefully staked,
to prevent wind-waving.

The fruit, as in the pear-tree, is produced on spurs,
which come out on the branchlets of two or more years'
growth, and continue fertile for a series of years. There
is, therefore, no very material difference in the pruning
and training of the pear and of the apple-tree. On walls,
the horizontal mode of training is commonly follawed, as
best calculated to repress the too vigorous growth of the
tree ; but for the nonpareil, and other twiggy varieties,
perhaps the fanform, or some modification of the fan
form, is preferable. For standards, where the soil is
rich and the growth rapid, all that is necessary in prun-
ing is to thin out the branches, and to prevent their
crossing and rubbing against each other. Where there
is little luxuriance, as in the case of all dwarfs, it is
useful to shorten the branches occasionally, and to re-
move useless twigs. Dwarfs on paradise stocks may be
treated almost like- currant.-bushes; that is, making
them open in the centre, or cup-shaped, to the great
advantage both of the size and beauty of > the fruit.
The general winter pruning may take .place any time
from the beginning of November to the beginning of
March. After the winter pruning, same cultivators de-

APPLES. 147

lay the shortening of the young wood of the former
year till the middle or end of April, when the buds
have swollen. Cankered or diseased wood, and all un-
fruitful snags or ragged spurs, are then to be neatly
cut out. Where the scars are large, they should be laid
over with some composition calculated to resist the ac-
tion of the air and- rain.

If the American blight, or woolly aphis (the Erioso-
ma 3Iali of Leach) makes its appearance on a tree, the
utmost care should be taken to clean every part of the
bark with a hard brush and some searching wash ; for,
should the- insect be left unmolested, it will speedily
spread over all the apple-trees in the neighborhood.
It is often inti'oduced with imported trees brought from
distant nurseries: when this is observed, the pest is so
grievous that the entire sacrifice of two or three trees
is a small price to pay for its removal. Mr. Waterton,
in his Essays 07i Natural History^ recommends a simple
remedy, which he found effectual, viz., mix clay with
water till it be of a. consistency to be applied like thick
paint to the injured parts, either with a trowel or a
brush; a second coat upon the first fills up every crack
which may show itself when the first coat becomes dry ;
the clay resists for a sufficient length of time the efi^ects
both of sun and rain, and before it gradually falls off
every insect is completely smothered.

For the SXoring of Pears and Ajyples there should be
attached to every considerable garden a commodious
fruit-room, well ventilated, furnished with fire-places or
stoves to exclude, frost, and fitted up with a variety of
shelves. A northern aspect is the most suitable ; and
it is .also desirable that there should be a dry, cool cel-
lar under it, to be employed in retarding the maturation

148 FRUIT GARDEN.

and decay of some of the more fugitive varieties. All
the fruit intended for keeping should be plucked with
the hand, or with such an implement as the fruit-gatherer
invented by Mr. Saul, of Lancaster. For the finer des-
sert fruits the shelves should be made of hard wood, not
of fir, and the fruit should be laid upon cartridge or
WTiting paper, to prevent its imbibing any taint from
the wood. The kitchen fruit may be kept in layers two
or three deep, but not in heaps, and should be occasion-
ally examined, when decaying fruit is to be removed.
The siveating of apples and pears, formerly much prac-
ticed, is now abandoned, as being attended with no use-
ful effects.

In the United States, this most valuable of all fruits
is of universal culture, although it attains to highest per-
fection in the Middle and some of the Northern States.
The catalogue of the apple of the London Horticultural
Society, including no less than 1,400 varieties, shows an
immense increase since the days of Pliny, when only 22
were named. Of the kinds which have been introduced
into the United States from abroad,, many of great
value are found in various parts of the co-untry : the fol-
lowing have been pronounced of the highest merit by
the National Congress of Fruit-growers held at the City
of New York in 1848: Early Harvest, Large Yellow
Bough, American Summer Pearmain, Summer Rose,
Early Strawberry, Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Rhode
Island Greening, Baldwin, Roxbury Russet ; and, for
'particular localities — Yellow Belle Fleur, Esopus Spitz-
enburg, Newtown Pippin ; to which was added, at a
subsequent meeting of the same body, the White Seek-
no-fuTther, F^meuse, Porter, Hubbardstown, Nonsuch,
Winesap, Lady Apple, Danver's Winter Sweet, Wine

QUINCE. 149

Apple, Red Astraclian, Vandervere, Bullock's Pippin,
Swaar.

Under favorable circumstances of climate and soil,
the apple-tree attains to great age. In Herefordshire,
England, th^re are said to be trees 1000 years old.
The ordinary, or perhaps average duration of healthy
trees grafted on crab stocks and planted in a strong tena-
cious soil, has been computed by Mr. Knight — a great
English authority upon such subjects— at 200 years.
Old trees headed down to standard height, the branches
being topped off within a foot or two of the trunk, and
the young shoots grafted upon, may thus be made pro-
ductive in a very short time.

There are three kinds of the Paradise apple used by
nurserymen for grafting upon to produce dwarf trees.
The smallest is commonly known as the French Para-
dise. Next comes -the common English Paradise, which
is rather larger, and the largest of all the dwarf Para-
dise apples is what the French call Doucin.

The QuixcE {Pyrus Cydonia)^ allied to the apple, is
a native of the south of Germany. It is but little cul-
tivated in Britain. The fruit, which is austere when raw,
is well calculated for giving flavor and poignancy to
stewed or baked apples. The two principal sorts are
the Portugal Quince and the Pear Quince, of which the
latter is the most productive, whik it serves the usual
culinary purposes equally well as the other. Quinces
may be propagated by layers, or by cuttings, or by
graftings. Two or three trees planted in the slip or
orchard are in general sufficient. In Scotland, the fruit
seldom approaches maturity, unless favored by a wall.

In the United States, the quince grows almost every-

150 FRUIT GARDEN.

"where, although It does best in a mellow soil retentive
of moisture, and in situations partially shaded. The
tree may be propagated by grafting, and also by cuttings
and layers. It is of slow growth, much branched, and
generally crooked: when planted in an orchard the trees
may be placed ten or twelve feet apart.

The following named kinds are best known in the
United States : The Bear Quince, so named for its
pyriform shape ; the Apple Quince', from its rounder
form ; the Portugal Quince, the taste of which is less
harsh than that which generally distinguishes other
quinces. When made into marmalade, its pulp has the
property of assuming a beautiful purple hue. For these
qualities, the fruit is -highly esteemed, although tTie tree
is a shy bearer.

The Mild or Eatable Quince is still less austere than
the other kinds. The Orange Quince, besides boing a
handsome fruit, possesses a fine flavor. The Musk
or Pine-apple Quince' is very large and beautiful.

The Medlar {3fespilus G-erynanica) is a native of the
south of Europe, but has been naturalized in some parts
of the south of England. The varieties worth notice are
the Dutch-Medlar, with broad leaves; and the Notting-
ham Medlar, with narrow leaves ; of these the latter is
considered the best. The fruit- is gathered in Novem-
ber, and kept till it begins to decay, Avhen it is served up
in the dessert, and highly relished by some. Tho treat-
ment recommended for the quince may be applied to
the medlar.

The trees of this family are very handsome, and de-
serve a place in every shrubbery. Any cominoh soil
suits them, and they are readily propagated by budding

MULBERRY. 151

or grafting on the common hawthorn, or by the seeds,
which, however, do not come up till the second year*
The common medlar is found growing wild in English
hedges, and in this state has thorns which disappear un-
der culture. Several varieties have been produced dif-
fering in size and flavor. The fruit has a harsh taste,
which unfits it for eating until it has been mellowed by
long Keeping.

The Service-Tree [Pyriis domestica) is a native of
the mountainous parts of Cornwall, and though not much
cultivated, may be here noticed. The fruit has a pecu-
liar acid flavor, and is used only when thoroughly mel-
lowed by keeping. There is a pear-shaped, and also an
apple-shaped variety, both of which may be propagated
by layers, and still better by grafting on seedling plants
of their own kind. Two or three trees may have a place
in the orchard, or perhaps in a sheltered corner of the
lawn. The tree is seldom productive till it have arrived
at a goodly age. The fruit is brought to Covent Garden
Market in winter ; but it is never «een at Edinburgh.
Near Paris, the tree is a good deal cultivated under th-e
name of cornier-; and there are a number of varieties of
the Service grown in the north of Italy.

The Mulberry {3Iorus nigra) is a native of Persia,
and in- England requires a warm sheltered situation-.
The fruit is in request for the dessert during the months
of August and September, having a rich aromatic fla-
vor, and a fine subacid juice. Where it is abundant,
wine is made from it. In Devonshire, a little of the
juice added to full-bodied cider,, produces a delicious
beverage, called Mulberry Cider, which retains its fla-

152 FRUIT GARDEN.

vor for many months. The mulberry is propagated
by cuttings or by layers, but, to expedite the production
of fruit, it is useful to inarch small bearing branches on
stocks prepared in flower-pots. Mulberry standard trees
succeed only in the southern counties. These require
no other training than an occasional thinning out of the
branches. They are generally planted on grassy lawns,
so that when ripe fruit falls from the higher branches, it
can be gathered up without having sustained injury. In
the middle districts, espalier rails may be employed,
particularly under the reflection of a south wall. In
colder situations, the mulberry must be treated as a
wall-ti:ee ; and it has been recommended that the bear-
ing shoots should be trained perpendicularly downwards.
Mr. Knight strongly advises the forcing of this fruit in
flower-pots, much in the same way as is done with figs.
The mulberry as a fruit is little known in Scotland ; but
a few aged trees exist in old gardens, and in favorable
seasons afi'ord their berries.

The Hazel [Corylus Avellana), one of the indigen-
ous edible nuts of England, is the original parent of the
red and white Filbert, Cobnut, Crossford-nut, Frizzled,
Spanish, and other improved varieties. These succeed
best on a rich dry loam, oarefully worked, and receiv-
ing from time to time a slight manuring. They are
generally planted in the slip, but thrive best in a quar-
ter by themselves. The varieties are propagated by
layers or by suckers ; but where there are stocks of the
common hazel, the other kinds may be grafted upon
them. The Cosford is generally preferred, being thin-
shelled, and having a kernel of high flavor. If the
Filbert or the Cosford be grafted on small stocks of the

HAZEL. 153

Spanish nut, which grows fast, and does not send out
side-suckers, dwarfish prolific trees may be obtained ;
and by pruning the roots in autumn, the trees may be
kept dwarf.

The neighborhood of Maidstone in Kent has long
been celebrated for the culture of nuts for the London
market ; and as the best Kentish practice is scarcely
known in other parts of Britain, we may enter a little
into detail. The young plants are almost always suck-
ers from old bushes, and are planted about ten or twelve
feet apart. They are suffered to grow without restraint
for about three years, and are then ciit down to within
a few inches of the ground. They push out five or six
shoots ; and these in their second year are shortened
one third. A hoop is then placed within the branches,
and the shoots are fastened to it at nearly equal dis-
tances. In the spring of the fourth year, all the laterals
are cut off close by the principal stems, and from these
cut places short shoots proceed, on which fruit is ex-
pected in the following year. Those which have borne
fruit are removed by the knife, and an annual supply
of young shoots is thus obtained. The leading shoots
are always shortened about two-thirds, and every bear-
ing twig is deprived of its top. In the early spring-
pruning, attention should be given that a supply of
male blossoms be left, and all suckers should be care-
fully eradicated. These Kentish nut-plantations some-
what resemble large quarters of gooseberry-bushes, few
of the trees exceeding six feet in height. For addi-
tional information, the reader may be referred to a pa-
per on this subject by the Rev. Mr. Williamson, in the
fourth volume of the Transactions of the London Hor-
ticultural Society.
14

154 FRUIT GARDEN.

The English Filbert has not, as yet, been cultivated
with much interest or successin the United States, the
"v^oods of which, however, produce a native hazelnut,
which, by judicious culture and perhaps hybridizing with
the European Filbert, might be made a desirable fruit,
equal to and perhaps superior to any kind known at the
present day. Mr. Downing has published a paper upon
the culture of the filbert in the United States, to the soil
and climate of wliich he thinks the varieties known in
England as Cosford, Frizzled, and Northampton Proli-
fic, best axiapted. When gathered ripe, filberts will
keep and retain a good flavor longer than any other
kind of nut. In dry rooms they will keep well for many
years, whilst in air-tight jars they may be kept an in-
definite period.

The AYalnut [Juglans regia) is a native of Persia
and the south of the Caucasus, and in Britain, therefore,
the fruit seldom comes to complete Maturity, except in
the warmer districts. Besides the common walnu:t, there
are several varieties cultivated in England, particularly
Ihe Large-fruited or Double Walnut, the Tender-shelled,
and the Thetford or Highflyer, which last is said (Lond.
Hort. Trans., iv. 517) to be "by far the best walnut
grown." The varieties can be propagated with certain-
ty only by budding or inoculating; but the operation is
rather nice, and not unfrequently fails. Mr. Knight's
method is described in the Lo7ido7i Transactions, vol. iii.
p. 133. Plants raised from the seed seldom become
productive till they be twenty years old. The fruit is
produced at the extremities of the shoots of the preced-
ing year ; and therefore, in gathering the crop, care
should be taken not to injure the young wood. In

CHESTNUT. 155

Kent, the trees are thrashed with rods or poles ; but this
is rough J and far fr<
collecting tire nuts.

is rough J and far from being a commendable mode of

The Chestnut {Castanea vesca), like the preceding,
has long been an inmate of the woods of England, in
which it grows to a great size; but it seldom ripens its
fruit in the northern parts of the island. Several vari-
eties, remarkable for their productiveness and early
bearing, have of late years risen into notice; particular-
ly Knight's Prolific, the New Prolific, and the Devon-
shire. These are propagated by grafting upon stocks
raised from nuts ; and when grafts are taken from bear-
ing wood, fruit may be produced in a couple of years.
The tree thrives best on a dry subsoil.

This tree is by no means so extensively cultivated in
the United States as it deserves to be. The wild chest-
nuts of the forests are very abundant and very sweet.
But they are far surpassed in size by the varieties
brought from Europe, the product of which bear a very
high price in the markets of American cities. They are
readily propagated from seed of excellent quality, but
the most select varieties must be procured through graft-
ing and budding. Some English catalogues contain 30
or 40 varieties of cultivated chestnuts. The American
Chinquapin is a very small species of chestnut, not flat-
tened but rounded, and terminating at one extremity in
a point. It is very common in the woods of the South-
ern States, and southern portions of some of the Mid-
dle States, growing about 20 to 30 feet in height. The
chinquapin is very sweet and agreeable to the taste, and
deserves cultivation, selling well in the market.

156 FRUIT GARDEN.

SMALL FRUITS.

The Red, White, and Black Currant, the Gooseberry,
the Kaspberrj, the Strawberry, and Cranberry, are
usually cultivated in English gardens, under the title of
Small Fruits. Their economical uses in cookery, con-
fectionery, and in the manufacture of home-made wines,
attach to them considerable importance, and render de-
sirable a separate account of them, however brief.

The Rihes ruhrumy Lin., includes as its varieties the
Red and White Currants. The principal subvarieties
are:

Common Red. Champagne.

Red Dutch. . Common White.

Knight's Sweet Red. Dutch White.

Red and white currants are readily propagated by
cuttings. They succeed in any sort of common garden
soil ; but seem to thrive best in w^arm, moist situations,
where they enjoy an abundance of air. A few plants
are sometimes placed against walls, on which they are
trained perpendicularly. Currants are sometimes planted
in single lines in the, borders which separate the plots in
the kitchen garden ; but it is generally better to confine
them to compartments by themselves. In these they
should hjd arranged in quincunx order, at six feet be-
tween the lines, and six feet apart in the line. They
may be transplanted at any time between the fall of the
leaf and the first movement of the sap. They are train-
ed as bushes, from single stems of about a foot in height,
care being taken to prevent the main branches from
crossing each other. In winter, the young bearing
wood on the sides of the branches is shortened down

GOOSEBERRY. 157

into spurs, from an inch to two inches in length. The
leading shoots are left about six inches long. Some
careful cultivators reduce the young shoots to about half
their length as soon as the fruit begins to color, an ope-
ration which, in consequence of the more free admission
of sun, is found to increase the size and improve the
flavor of the berries.

Of Hibesf nigrum, Lin., or black currant, there are
several varieties, of which we need mention only the
Common Black,- and the Black Naples. The latter is
accounted the preferable . sort. The black currant
thrives best in a moist, deep soil, and shady situation.
Its culture is much the same as that of the other cur-
rants, but the young shoots are not spurred. All the
pruning necessary is to keep the branches free of each
other, and to promote a succession of young wood.

The American Congress of Fruit-growers at its meet-
ing in the City of New York in 1849, recommended the
following as the best varieties of currants for cultivation :
Red Dutch, Black Naples, White Dutch, May's Vic-
toria, and White Grape.

The Gooseberry. — Botanists distinguished two
species ; Bibes Groesularia, or rough-fruited gooseber-
ry ; and Rihes uva crispa, or smooth-fruited gooseber-
ry. The gooseberry has always been a favorite fruit in
Great Britain, and. is said to be produced in the middle
districts of the island in greater perfection than in any
other part of the world. Many very large sorts have
originated in Lancashire, where the culture has been
carried to a high degree of refinement ; but it is to be
regretted that loeight seems, unreasonably enough, to
be regarded in the prize competitions in that duchy as

14*

158 FRUIT GARDEN.

the sole criterion of excellence. Berries of twenty or
even twenty-four pennyweights are boasted of; but
such Goliaths are almost always inferior in flavor. The
following are some of those sorts recommended in the
catalogue of the London Horticultural Society.

Red. — Red Champagne, Ironmonger, Rob Roy, Small
Red GRobe, Keen's Seedling, Lord of the Manor, Leigh's
Rifleman, Red Warrington, Wellington's Glory, Ship-
ley's Black Prince.

Yellow. — Yellow Ashton, Yellow Champagne, Golden
Yellow, Smiling Beauty, Smooth Yellow, Yellow-smith,
Rumbullion.

White. — Bright Venus, White Champagne, Chefshire
Lass, White Crystal, White Damson, Whitesmith, White
Honey. ■ '

Gf-reen. — Green Gascoigne, Pitmaston Greengage,
Langley Green, Late Green, Green Laurel, Gregory's
Perfection, Green W^alnut, Jolly Tar, Cupper's Bonny
Lass.

Some admirable new varieties have of late years been
raised in Scotland, particularly in Perthshire; the
Delvine Porcupine, New L'onmonger, and Mignonette,
are not surpassed by the finest of the English produc-
tions.

In forming his collection, the horticulturist should
especially select a few early and a few late sorts, and,
by properly disposing the bushes in various situations
in his garden, he may prolong the fruit season by seve-
ral Weeks. The same object may be further promoted
by defending the fruit of the late sorts from the attacks
of wasps, which is accomplished by surrounding the
bushes with bunting .(the thin stuff" of which ships' flags
are often made) ; and also by retarding the ripening of

RASPBEEEY. 159

the fruit, which is done by covering up the bushes with
bast-mats. This last contrivance, however, answers bet-
ter with currants than with gooseberries.

■ The gooseberry-bush affects a loose rich soil, which
readily imbibes but does not retain much moisture.
Gooseberries, like currants, may be grown in lines or
compartments. They are propagated by cuttings, and
may be transplanted, in open weather, during any of
the winter months. They are trained with single stems,
from six inches to a foot high ; and all suckers, which
are apt to spring up from the roots, should be carefully
removed. Formerly it was the practice in Scotland to
spur all the annual wood ; but now the black currant
system of pruning is more generally and advantageous-
ly followed. The ground on which the bushes stand is
carefully digged once a year ; and manure, when neces-
sary, is at the same time added. No farther culture is
requisite than keeping down weeds, and preventing the
extensive ravages of caterpillars. This last object is
best attained by employing persons (women and chil-
dren) to pick them off on their first appearance. Goose-
berry plants are sometimes trained on walls or espa-
liers, to accelerate the ripening, or increase the size of
the fruit.

The Raspberry {liuhus Idceus) is, like the preceding
small fruits, a native of Great Britain. The principal
varieties are : —

Red Antwerp. Eed Globe.

Yellow Antwerp. Cornish.

Barnet. Williams' Double Bearing.

Of these, the first two have never been surpassed, and
are generally sufficient for all common purposes. Rasp-

lt)0 FRUIT GARDEN.

berries are propagated from suckers, which are planted
in rows five or six feet apart, and at three feet from
each other in the rows. The fruit is produced on small
branches which proceed from the shoots of the former
year. Every year they throw up a number of shoots or
canes from the root, which bear fruit the subsequent
year, and then decay. In dressing the plants in winter,
all the decayed stalks are cut away, and of the young
canes only three or four of the strongest are left, which
are shortened about a third. As the stalks are too weak
to stand by themselves, they are sometimes connected
together by the points in the manner of arches, so as to
antagonize and mutually support each other, and some-
times they are attached to stakes. " Perhaps the best
support is obtained by fastening the points of the shoots
to a slight horizontal rail or bar about four feet high,
and placed a foot and a half on the south side of the
rows. By this means the bearing shoots are djeflected
from the perpendicular to the sunny side of the- row,
and are not shaded by the annual wood. The ground
between the rows should be well digged in winter, and
kept clean. Fresh plantations of raspberries should be
made every six or seven years. The double-bearing
varieties, which continue 'to bear during autumn, re-
quire light soils and warm situations. It may be men-
tioned that the crop of any of the varieties may be re-
tarded by breaking off the points of the bearing shoots
at an early period in spring; but, like all other fruits,
the flavor of the raspberry is highest when it is allowgd
to ripen at its natural season.

Although several varieties of this fruHare found grow-
ing wild in the United States, some of. which are exceed-

STRAWBERRY. IGl

inglj fine flavored, as, for example, those abounding in
the northern states and British provinces, still the best
cultivated kinds have been brought from Europe. Ni-
chol enumerates twenty-three varieties, among which
are the American red and black, the Long Island, the
Virginia, the Ohio ever-bearing, and the Pennsylvania.
Some of the American varieties may be propagated by
layers, so as to produce fruit the second year. New
kinds of choice qualities from the seed of the best Euro-
pean, often hybridized with native American varieties,
are produced in the United States. One of the most
successful culturists is Dr. Wm. Brinckle, of Philadel-
phia, who has originated many kinds of the highest
merit.

The American Congress of Fruit-growers^ at its meet-
ing in the City of New York, in 1849, agreed upon the
following varieties as most worthy of cultivation : The
Red Antwerp, Yellow Antwerp, Franconia, and Fastolff,
and as giving promise of being worthy to add to the
list of Knevett's giant.

The Straw^berry {Frag aria) belongs to the same na-
tural family as the raspberry. Amongst the numerous
kinds cultivated in English gardens, botanists have dis-
tinguished several species,hvit as these distinctions imply
no difference in culture, and as it is difficult to trace
them amid the sportings of the hybrids, we shall not
pretend to enumerate them. Scarcely any plant more
readily slides into seminal varieties; and, indeed, till
lately, in consequence of the irregular prevalence of
local names, their whole nomenclature was a chaos of
confusion. At the instance of the Horticultural Society
of London, i\h'. Barnet undertook a revision of the sub-

162 FRUIT GARDEN.

ject; and, with great acuteness and discrimination, has
removed much ambiguity, and finally settled the names
of the existing varieties. His paper, which is well worth
the' perusal of every student of horticulture, is in the
sixth volume of the London Transactions. In the se-
cond edition of the Catalogue of the London Horticul-
tural Society, no fewer than 112 varieties are enu-
merated. But the following are sufficient, and an aste-
risk is prefixed to those most worthy of cultivation in
small gardens : —

* Old Scarlet or Virginian. Swainstone Seedling.

* Grove End Scarlet. * Old Pine or Carolina.
:^ Keen's Seedling. Wilmot's Superb.

* ■ Roseberry. Myatt's Pine.

Downton. Myatt's British Queen.

^ Knevett's. ^ Large Flat Ilautbois.

* Elton. * Prolific Ilautbois.
American Scarlet. * Alpine, red and white.
Coul Late Scarlet. * Wood, red and white.

The Elton and Keen's Seedling excel in size and
beauty; Myatt's Pine in delicious flavor, but the fruit
of this last is produced sparingly.

The strawberry plant is propagated either from run-
ners or from seed. When runners are employed, they
are sometimes planted in autumn, or rather as soon as
they have struck root into the ground. Most commonly,
however, they are permitted to remain unseparated
from the parent plants till spring; a practice not to be
commended, for it debilitates the old plants, and pre-
vents the earth between the rows from being stirred
and cleaned : deep digging between rows is calculated
to destroy the roots, and ought to be avoided. As,
upon the whole, spring planting seems preferable, it

STRAWBERRY. 163

would perhaps be well to adopt the practice of some
gardeners, who are at pains to prick out the offsets,
as soon as thej are rooted into beds of rich soil, from
which they are transplanted into their proper places
early in the spring.

The desire of new varieties has encouraged the prac-
tice of propagating by seed; and Keen, Knevett, Myatt,
and others, have been extremely successful. Mr. Knight
having observed that the young runners of the alpine
strawberry flower and ripen fruit the first year, was led
to adopt this mode of reproduction, and followed it with
the happiest success. Early in spring he sowed the
seed in flower-pots, which were put into a hotbed ; and
as soon as the plants attained a suflScierit size, they were
transplanted into the open ground. They began to
blossom soon after midsummer, and continued to produce
fruit till interrupted by frost. Thus Mr. Knight is
inxjlined to treat the alpine strawberry as an annual
plant. The same practice has been recommended in
France by M. Morel de Yind^ {Cal. Sort. Mem., vol.
iii.); but he very properly preserves his plants for
three years, sowing every year a successional crop. Mr.
Keen has applied this method of culture to the wood
strawberry ; and we doubt not but it might be extended
with beneficial eff"ects to the Old Scarlet and others of
the less artificial varieties.

A clayey soil or strong loam is considered as best
suited to strawberry-plants. On a sandy or very light
soil they seldom succeed; and in very close situations,
and over-rich ground, most varieties produce little else
than leaves. Before planting, the ground should be
manured and trenched, or digged over deeply, and when
stifl* and compact it should be very carefully worked.

164 FRUIT GARDEN.

Keen, and others in the neighborhood of London, grow
their strawberries in beds, three rows in each, with an
alley between them. The market-gardeners of Edin-
burgh, who, in the culture of this fruit, are perhaps not
excelled by any, plant in rows two feet asunder, and from
a foot to fifteen inches in the rows. When the weather
is dry, the young plants are watered till they be well
established. As little fruit is produced the first year,
a line of carrots, onions, or other vegetables, is often
sown between the rows for one season. In May the
runners are cut off, with the view of promoting the
swelling of the fruit. During dry weather, careful
cultivators water their plants while in flower, and par-
ticularly after the fruit is set, and occasionally till it
begin to color. The old practice, from which the
fruit derives its name, of laying straw between the
rows to prevent the soiling of the fruit, has been re-
cently revived; and where there are dressed lawns, the
short cut grass may be employed for the same purpose.
As soon as the fruit season is over, the runners are
again removed ; the straw or grass is taken away, and
the ground hoed and raked. In October the runners,
and also the reclining, but not the erect, leaves, are cut
away, and the surface of the earth is stirred with a three-
pronged fork, great care being taken not to injure the
roots. Strawberries may be raised from the same
ground for an indefinite space of time, but the plants
should be renewed every third or fourth year. In the
garden they are generally put in a quarter by them-
selves, and it should" be one fully exposed to the sun
and air. The alpine and wood varieties may be placed
in situations rather moist and shady, as edgings in
the slips or in rows behind walls and hedges, in which

STRAWBERRY. 165

situations they succeed perfectly well, and produce
fruit late in the season.

If strawberries be planted on a good border, in rows
a yard asunder, a crop of early peas may be taken be-
tween the rows; and the peas may be succeeded by
Cape broccoli, which seems not only not to be hurt by
the excretion from the roots of the peas, but to remove
any noxious quality thus imparted to the soil. The
regular manuring for these crops keeps the strawberries
in good vigor. The bed should not occupy the same
ground more than three or four consecutive seasons.

Strawberries hav^ always been a favorite dessert
fruit. They likewise form an excellent preserve ; and
from their freedom from excess of acid seem well
adapted to the manufacture of home wine. To this
purpose they have been only partially employed ; but
the samples of strawberry wine which we have tasted
had more of the vinous flavor than any other of our
domestic wines. The culture of strawberries is the
most lucrative part of the employment of the market-
gardener, at least near large towns. In England it is
not uncommon for him to realize a clear profit of .£25
or X35, or even more, per imperial acre of strawberry
ground. The greater the diligence and assiduity of
the cultivator, the greater will be his returns. It is a
common and just remark, that too little labor is, in
general, expended upon the strawberry, and by the
ignorant and unskilful gardener least of all.

In some places, a strawberry bank is formed in this
■way : A 1-idge of earth, consisting of rich loam if pos-
sible, is formed, about six feet broad at the base, and
about five feet high in the centre, running nearly from
north to south. Along the centre of the ridge a nar-
15

166 FRUIT GARDEN.

row channel is formed, into which water may be poured,
so as to percolate the sides. Along the sloping sides
bricks are placed like the steps of a stair, and in the
interstices, between the bricks, strawberry' plants are
inserted. In this way the plants have the fullest ad-
vantage of sunshine, the fruit is kept perfectly clean,
and its early maturity is promoted by the reflected heat
of the bricks.

Strawberries are extensively forced. The Old Scar-
let, Old Pine, Roseberry, Grove End, and Keen's
Seedling, are found suitable for this purpose. The latter
has the advantage of being early, prolific, and yielding
large fruit ; but the Old Scarlet and the Old Pine have
the superiority in flavor. The plants must be in a
course of preparation for nearly a year before fruit can
be expected. They are potted in April with rich soil,
two or three young plants being put into a pot of eight
or ten inches in diameter. During summer they are
kept in a warm situation and encouraged to grow, flow-
ers and runners being carefully picked off". In the be-
ginning of winter they are sheltered in cold frames, and
they are afterwards successively placed into hotbeds or
forcing-houses, so as to keep up a succession of fruiting
plants. The air should be kept moist, and they must
be plentifully supplied with water. Where the means
are abundant, a moderate supply of ripe fruit may thus
be maintained during the late winter and the spring
months. Some cultivators provide new plants for forc-
ing every year. But the same plants may be forced
for several successive years, provided they be shifted in
August, and, at the time of repotting, the black torpid
roots be cut off', leaving only those of a paler color, and
which are connected with the new shoots or off'sets.

STRAWBERRY. 167

At the meeting in 1849 of the National Congress of
Fruit-growers, the following varieties were recomraend-
ed as the very best for culture, namely : Large Early
Scarlet, Hovey's Seedling, Boston Pine ; and, as giving
promise of being worthy to be added to the list, Burr's
New Pine, and Jenney's Seedling.

Mr. Hovey raised the Seedling which goes by his
name, and the celebrated Boston Pine, from the same
lot of seed. He states that it is the character of his
seedling, as it is of the Early Yirginia and some other
varieties of the strawberry, rarely to produce more than
three or four trusses of fruit to each root, so that they
require to be grown thickly in beds to produce good
crops. This, however, was not generally-ihe case with
the Boston Pine, the tendency of which is to produce
ten or twelve trusses of fruit to each root, so that one
hundred and- fifty berries had been counted on a single
plant. In consequence of this characteristic, when the
vines occupy all the ground, there is a deficiency of
nourishment and the berries do not fill up. Hence many
failures had occurred in the cultivation of this variety,
which required more room than other kinds; when grown
in rows with a foot or more space left between, and that
space well manured, the crop was most abundant.
When planted in hills, one or more feet apart each way,
and one or more plants in 'each place, the runners could
be kept clipped ofi", and the ground tilled with either the
hoe, plough or cultivator.

Strawberry 'plants are commonly designated as male
arid female, and it is of great importance to understand
haw to distinguish these apart, since a bed with too
large a proportion of male plants will prove very unpro-
ductive. The distinction can be readily made when in

168 FRUIT GARDEN.

flower, the blossoms of the femules having an entirely
green centre, whilst those that exhibit a great many yel-
low stamens represent the male, or barren plants. Such
flowers as have only a portion of stamens around the
base of the green conical centre of the flower, are term-
ed staminate or perfect blossoms.

In the United States, strawberry plants are set out
either in the spring months of March and April, or in
the months of August and September. A good size for
beds is four feet wide with three rows of plants about
fifteen inches apart. The beds may have walks two or
two and a half feet wide for the workers or pickers to
move in.

After the middle of July, the runners not required to
produce fresh plants are to be clipped off or otherwise
destroyed. The beds should be hoed so that the soil
may be kept open, and in light soils a few inches of well-
rotted manure should be dug in between the rows every
fall. Where exposed to severe cold, some straw or rough
litter should be lightly spread over the beds in winter.
In dry seasons, after the plants have done blooming, it
will generally be of great service to the fruit to have the
beds occasionally watered with lueak liquid mai:)ure of
some kind, either the drainings from the cattle yard or
other fertilizing liquid. A solution of guano, in the pro-
portion of one lb. to six or eight gallons of water, will
answer very well. Manure must generally be given in
some way or other if very large fruit is wanted. As
the beds will not generally produce well longer than
three or four years, it is requisite to have a succession
of new ones coming on in other places. It is recom-
mended to set out the female plants, with the exception
of every fifth row, which is to consist of males. The

CRANBERRY. 169

clean straw or tan usually placed about the plants to
keep the fruit from the ground or sand, should be put
round in early spring before the blooming.

A deep, light rich loam is the best soil for the straw-
berry, and where nature has not placed this at the con-
venience of the planter, he should have recourse to
trenching. The fruit season may be greatly prolonged
by having beds in different exposures ; those fronting
the south-east will ripen long before those towards the
north-west. There must be no trees or other objects to
shade the beds.

Cranberry. — The cultm-e of the American Cranber-
ry {Oxycoccus macrocarpus) was introduced by the late
Sir Joseph Banks, and deserves particular notice, for it
is altogether overlooked by Lindley and other horticul-
tural writers. The plant is distinguished by the smooth-
ness of its stems, and the largeness of its fruit. It
grows freely, and produces its fruit readily in. any damp
situation ; but where there is a pond, it may be culti-
vated with the greater success. On the margin of the
pond stakes are driven in a short way within the water
line ; boards are so placed against these as to prevent
the soil of the cranberry-bed from falling into the water.
A layer of small stones is deposited in the bottom, and
over these peat or bog earth, mixed with sand, to the
extent of about three or four inches above, and half a
foot below the usual surface of the water. Plants of the
American cranberry placed on this bed soon cover the
whole surface with a dense matting of trailing shoots.
There is a variety which is very shy in yielding its fruit,
and this should, of course, bei- avoided. If the prolific
variety be employed, from a bed thirty or forty feet in

170 KITCHEN GARDEN.

length, by five or six in breadth, a quantity of berries
may be procured sufficient for the supply of a family
throughout the year. The fruit is easily preserved in
bottles. The native cranberry {Oxycoceus palustris)
may be treated in the same manner, and in some places
is very successfully cultivated. At Culzean Castle, the
seat of the Marquis of Ailsa, in Ayrshire, I found (1820)
the cranberry ground surrounded by a ditch, the water
of which was made to filter through among stones and
stakes to the interior, so as to keep the cranberry plants
constantly supplied with moisture. In the same garden
a second compartment was dedicated to small fruits of
this class, having in the centre a rocli-work planted with
whortleberries ( Vaccinium vitis-iddea), and around the
rock-work beds of American Cranberry, of Scottish
Cranberry, and of Crowberry {Umpetrum nigrum), also
native.

The following plants produce fruit in English gardens,
some of them abundantly in a wild state, others spar-
ingly ; but they can scarcely be said to come within the
province of Horticulture : Berber is vulg.aris, the Bar-
berry ; Smnhucus nigra, the Elder ; Primus sjyinosa,
the Sloe ; P. insititia, the Bullacc ; and Rhuhus Cha-
maemorus, the Cloudberry.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this department those plants are cultivated which,
after being subjected to various culinary processes, are
used at the dinner-table as articles of food. We shall
class them in groups, enumerating the kinds nearly in

THE CABBAGE. 171

the order of their importance, each, for the sake of pre-
cision, being accompanied by its botanical name.

Cahhage Tribe,

The Brassica oleracea, Linn., is a plant indigenous
to the rocky shores of Great Britain, but no one, seeing
it waving its foliage in its native habitat, could possibly
anticipate that it would ever appear in our gardens, dis-
guised as the ponderous drumhead or sugar-loaf cabbage,
or on our tables as the delicate cauliflower and broccoli.
The cultivated varieties are numerous; but the follow-
ing are the most important.

Common White Cabbage; the leaves gathering into
a close head. The economical uses of this vegetable
are well known. Its principal subvarieties are the
following :

Early Dwarf or Battersea. Scotch Gray.

Early York. Vanack, «

Large York. Couve Troncliuda.

Large Sugar-loaf. Pomeranian.

Drumhead.

The first two are well adapted for early crops; the
others for use in the autumn and winter. There is a
dwarfish variety of the Tronchuda, sometimes called
the Portugal Cabbage, the leaf-stalk and midribs of the
leaves of which are succulent, crisp, and white, and
equal in flavor to sea-kale.

The Cabbage is propagated from seed, which may be
sown in beds faur feet wide,, and covered over with a
thin layer of earth. The proper seasons in England
for this operation are the middle of August, the be-
ginning of March, and midsummer. By observing these
times, and employing different sorts, the succession

172 KITCHEN GARDEN.

may be kept up throughout the year. For the early
spring crops, the late-sown plants are in October trans-
ferred from the seed-bed to some open and Avell-manured
ground, where they are arranged in rows two feet
asunder. The principal supply may be put out in
February, affording the larger sorts more width between
the rows. The crops sown in spring are planted out
in May and June. For subsequent culture, all that is
necessary is to keep the ground clear of weeds, and to
draw up the soil about the stems. In some situations
watering in summer is beneficial.

In many places on the continent of Europe, sourcrout
is prepared by shredding down the heads in autumn, and
placing in a cask alternate layers of the cabbage with
salt, pepper, and a very little salad oil ; and then com-
pressing the whole.

The cabbages grown late in autumn and in the begin-
ning, of winter are denominated Coleiuorts, from the
name of a kindred vegetable no longer cultivated. The
object is to have them with open or slightly- closed
hearts. Two sowings are made, in the middle of June
and in July, and the seedlings, when they acquire suf-
ficient strength, are planted out in lines, a foot or
fifteen inches asunder, and eight or ten inches apart in
the rows.

The Red Cabbage^ of which the Dutch or large red
is the most common variety, is much used for pickling.
It is sown along with the white varieties in August and
in spring, and the culture is in every respect the same.

The Savoy. This variety, like the preceding, forms
into a close head, but is distinguished by the wrinkling
of its leaves. It -is a very useful vegetable during the
winter months, being highly relished by most people.

THE CABBAGE. 173

The principal subvarieties are the Early Green, the
Dwarf, the Yellow, and the Winter or large Late Green,
of each of which there are various forms. The seed is
sown in autumn and in the end of spring ; and two
plantings may take place in April, and in June or July.

Brussels Sprouts. This vegetable is allied to the
foregoing, but does not close or cabbage. From the
axillae of the stem-leaves proceed little rosettes or
sprouts, which resemble savoy cabbages in miniature,
and form a very delicate morsel. The seed should be
sown in spring, and the seedlings planted out before
midsummer, during showery w^eather. In October the
plants should have additional earth drawn to their
roots, to firm them, and save them from being destroyed
by frost. The earliest sprouts become fit for use in
November, and they continue good, or even improving
in quality, till the month of March following. Mr. Van
Mons, of Brussels mentions {Lond. Hortic. Mem., vol.
iii.), that by successive sowings the sprouts are there
obtained for the greater part of the year. In spring,
when the plants have a tendency to run to flower, their
growth is checked by lifting them, and replanting them
in a slanting direction, in a cool, shady situation.

Open Kale or Borecole. The principal subvarie-
ties are :

German Greens, or Curlics, Jerusalem Kale, or Eagged

green, yellow, and red. Jack.

Scotch Kale, green and purple. Woburn Kale.
Delaware Greens. Jersey Kale.

Buda, or Russian Kale.

Of these the first two are considered the most valua-
ble, and are the sorts chiefly cultivated in England.
The seed is sown at various times from February to

174 KITCHEN GARDEN.

May, and the seedlings are planted out in moist weather
during summer, in rows two feet asunder. The Buda
Kale is sown in May, planted out in September, and,
being hardy, affords a supply in the following spring.
The Woburn kale, being nearly a perennial, may readily
be propagated by cuttings, six inches long, in any of
the spring months.

Of the Turnip-Rooted Cabbage, or Khol-rtihe, there
are two kinds, one swelling above ground (Chou-rave),
the other in it (Chou-navet). There is nothing pecu-
liar in the culture, unless that, in the case of the first
mentioned, the earth should not be drawn so high as to
cover the globular part of the stem, which is the part
used. The seed may be sown in the beginning of June,
and the seedlings transplanted in July; the vegetable
is thus fit for use at the approach of winter. Of the
Chou-rave the French have a cut-leaved variety, which
is considered as rather earlier than the common sort.

Cauliflower. This is cultivated for the sake of the
flower-buds, which form a large, dense cluster or head,
and afford one of the most delicate products of the
kitchen garden. There are three varieties, the Early,
the Late, and the Reddish-stalked ; but these seem to
present scarcely any well-marked distinction; the earli-
ness or lateness depending on the time of sowing. Of
late a sort called the Large Asiatic has come much into
use.

The sowing, for the first or spring crop, is made in
the latter half of the month of August ; and, in the
neighborhood of London, the growers adhere as nearly
as possible to the 21st day. A second sowing takes
place in February on a slight hotbed, and a third in
April or May.

CAULIFLOWER. 175

The cauliflower being tender, the young plants re-
quire protection in winter. For this purpose they are
sometimes pricked out in a warm situation at the foot
of a wall with a. southern exposure, where, in severe
weather, they are also covered with hoops and mats.
Perhaps a better method is to plant them thickly in
the ground, under a common hotbed frame, and to
secure them from cold by coverings, and from damp by
giving air in mild weather.* For a very early supply,
it is useful to be at the pains of potting a few scores of
plants ; these are to be kept under glass during winter,
and plunged out in spring, defending them with a
hand-glass, and watering them when needful. Some-
times, as in market-gardens, patches of three or four
plants are sheltered by hand-glasses throughout the
winter in the open border. It is advantageous to prick
out the spring-sown plants into some sheltered place,
before they be finally transplanted and committed to
the open ground in May. The later crop, the trans-
plantafion of which may take place at various times,
is treated like early cabbages. Cauliflower succeeds
best in a rich soil and warm situation. After planting,

* During the severe and protracted snow-storm of 1838, Mr.
Robert Miller, market-gardener at Gorgie, was completely suc-
cessful in preserving his cauliflower plants in the open border,
by the simple expedient of heaping snow over them to the depth
of eighteen inches or two feet. Occasional slight thawings were
followed by intense frosts, when the cold was from 20° even to
10° Fahr. But the only effect was the glazing of the surface of
the snow with a thin coat of ice : the plants remained imbedded
below at an invariable temperature of 32°, which they could well
enough sustain, and they ran no risk from the expanding effects
of frcezin<r.

176 KITCHEN GARDEN.

all that is necessary is to hoe the ground and draw up
the soil about the roots.

It is found that this vegetable, being induced to form
its large and crowded clusters of flower-buds in the au-
tumn, may be kept in perfection over winter. Cauli-
flowers which have been planted out in July will be
nearly ready for use in October. Towards the end of
that month, the most compact and best shaped are
selected and lifted carefully with the spade, keeping a
ball of earth attached to the roots. Some of the large
outside leaves are removed, in order that the plants
may occupy less room, and, at the same time, any
points of leaves that immediately overhang the flower
are cut off. Where there are peach-houses or vineries,
the plants may be arranged in the borders of these,
pretty closely together, but without touching. Or they
may be placed in the same manner in hotbed frames.
In mild, dry weather the glass-frames are drawn off,
but they are kept close in rain; and in severe frost they
are thickly covered with mats. In this way cauliflower
may be kept in a very good state for several months.

Broccoli has a close afiinity to cauliflower, being
like it of Italian origin, and difl'ering chiefly in the greater
hardiness of its constitution. The sub varieties are nume-
rous, and exceedingly diversifled. The following are
those which are most in repute at present. The first
five produce their heads in autumn, the others in
spring : —

Early purple Cape. Sulphur-colored

Grange's Early, or Gilles- Late White,

pie's Broccoli. Late Purple.

Early Purple. Knight's Protecting.

Early AVhite. Edinburgh AVhite.

BROCCOLI. 177

Of the autumnal sorts there should be two sowings, one
in the middle of April, and one in the middle of May.
As the plants acquire strength thej are shifted into the
open ground, where they are placed in lines tAvo feet
apart. The cape varieties are of great excellence, being
of a delicious flavor when dressed ; but, on account of
the plants being apt to start into flower, their cultiva-
tion has in many places been neglected. With proper
management, however, this tendency may be overruled.
The first sowing may be made on any border of light
soil, scattering- the seed very sparingly. In about a
month the plants may be transferred directly into a
quarter consisting of sandy loam, well enriched with
rotten dung. The greater part of the second crop
should be planted in pots, likewise directly from the
seed-bed. These plants are to be sunk in the open
ground till the heads be formed ; and in the end of No-
vember they are to be placed under a glass frame, where
very good broccoli may be produced during the severest
weather of winter. Mr. Ronalds of Brentford recoba-
mends that the Early White, which is also a desirable
sort, should be sown on a hotbed, and treated like the
secondary crop of cauliflower.

The spring varieties are extremely valuable, as they
come into use at a season when the finer vegetables are
scarce. They are sown in the middle of March or the
beginning of April, and alford a supply from March to
May of the following year. The Late White (some-
times called Dwarf Tartarian) bears a great resemblance
to cauliflower, and often passes for it.

To obtain seed of the Brassica tribe, the most ge-
nuine and characteristic specimens of the different va-
rieties should be selected in autumn, in such a state of
16

178 KITCHEN GARDEN.

advancement as that they will flower as early as possi-
ble in the following spring. They should be planted in
an open situation, and kept as far distant from other
kinds of the same tribe as may be. As they are very
liable to cross or hybridize, it is^ perhaps better, except
in the case of some favorite variety, to procure sup-
plies from a respectable seedsman, from whom they are
almost uniformly to be had genuine, the extensive seed-
growers being at great pains to prevent intermixture
of crops.

Grange's Early White, and the Early Purple Cape,
are the kinds best adapted to the climate of the Middle
States. The Dwarf Tartarian, White Malta, and Late
White, are fine sorts for situations south of Virginia,
where they may remain out all winter. But to be able
to have them during winter in the Middle and Northern
States, it is necessary, before the occurrence of a severe
frost, to remove them from the garden, by careful lift-
ing, and replant under a shed or in a cellar.

Leguminous Plcmts.

Of the Pea [Pisum sativum) there are two principal
varieties cultivated in England, the Field or Gray Hog
Pea, and the Garden Pea. The latter alone requires
our attention here. Its chief subvarieties are —

Early Frame. Auv^rgne.

Early Charlton. Knight's Tall Marrowfat.

EarJy White AVarwick. St. Heliers.

Bishop's Early Dwarf. Knight's Dwarf Marrowfat.

Richardson's Eclipse. Green or Blue Prussian.

Spanish Dwarf. White Prussian.

Groom's Dwarf Blue. Sugar, Dwarf and Tall.

Tall Marrowfat. Bounceval.

THE PEAS. 179

The first three are suitable for early crops, and the
others for successional supplies. The Auvergne, St.
Heliers, and Groom's Dwarf Pea, have of late risen
into repute, as being very prolific. In the Sugar Pea,
of which there are two sorts, the tall and dwarf, the
inner tough, filmy lining of the pod is absent : the
young legumes of these may therefore be used like
kidney-beans, and form an agreeable dish. Richard-
son's Eclipse is early, very prolific, and remarkable for
the great length of the pods.

The first crop of peas is sown in England about the
beginning of November, in front of a south wall; and
these,- after they havei appeared above ground, are de-
fended by spruce-fir branches, or other spray, through-
out the winter. In January and February other sowings
are made, and sometimes the seed is put up into flower-
pots and boxes, and the young plants afterwards plung-
ed out in spring, either singly or two or three to-
gether, taking care to keep a portion of earth adhering.
From the end of February moderate sowing should be
made twice a month till the middle of August, thus en-
suring a supply of successive crops, of delicate green
peas. For the latest crops, the Knight's Marrowfat
and the Blue Prussian are among the best. Peas are
sown in rows from three to five feet asunder, according
to the height which the difterent sorts are known usu-
ally to attain. As they grow up, the earth is drawn to
the roots, and the stems are supported with stakes, a
practice which, in a well-kept garden, is always advis-
able, although it is said that the early varieties, when
recumbent, arrive sooner at maturity. Groom's Dwarf,
through prolific, is so humble as not to require stakes.
When germinating, or when just rising through the

180 KITCHEN GARDEN.

ground, peas are greedily devoured by sparrows and
other small birds. Threads of white worsted spread
along the lines of the young peas frighten the depre-
dators fully better than scarecrows or strings of fea-
thers; but perhaps the simplest and most efFectual re-
medy is to throw over the peas a slight covering of
soil, for by the time the young plants have penetrated
this they are beyond the attack of the birds.

The early crops come into use in May and June,
and, by repeated sowings, the supplies are prolonged
to the beginning of November. Peas grown late in
autumn are subject to mildew, to obviate which, Mr.
Knight has , proposed the following method : The
ground is dug over in the usual way, and the spaces to be
occupied by the future r9ws of peas are well soaked
with water. The mould on each side is then collected
so as to form ridges seven or eight inches high, and
these ridges are well watered. On these the seed is
sown in single rows in the beginning of June. If dry
weather at any time set in, water is supplied profusely
once a week. In this way, the sap which it prepared in
the summer is expended in the autumn; the plants con-
tinue green and vigorous, resisting mildew, and not
yielding till subdued by frost.

In the Middle States, vfhen sown successively from
the last of February,to the 10th of May, crops of young
green peas may be had constantly from May to the end
of July. About the middle of August, peas may be
planted again, previous to which it is best to soak them
in water for twenty-four hours. Water the. rows before
planting if the ground be dry, and watering the peas
whilst growing will tend to keep off the mildew, so apt to

THE BEAN. 181

attack them in dry weather toAvards the close of sum-
mer.

Of the Garden Bean {Faha vulgaris), amongsl many
varieties, these may be mentioned —

Marshtvll's Early Dwarf. Green Long-pod.

Early Mazagan. White-Blossomed Long-pod.

Dwarf Fan, or Cluster. Broad Windsor, or Spanish.

Royal Dwarf. Green Windsor.

White Long-pod, or Sandwich. Toker.

In England the Mazagan and Marshall's Dwarf may be
sown in November, and defended during winter in the
same manner as early peas, but it is more difficult to
preserve them from being destroyed by the frost. The
same sorts should be sown again in January and Feb-
ruary. In March, the. Dwarf Cluster and Long-pods
may be put in the ground for a general crop, and sub-
sequently the Windsor and the Toker. For a small
garden the Long-pods are most desirable, being the most
prolific. The White-blossomed is a variety of some
merit, and when the pods are taken at an early stage,
they have little of the peculiar bean flavor, or only
enough to render them pleasant. The Royal Dwarf is
remarkable for being exceedingly productive. During
the growth of the bean crop, all the culture that is neces-
sary is, that the earth be drawn up about the roots.
Topping the plants is usually practiced, being found to
promote the filling of the pods.

Kidney-Bean. — Under this general title -are inclrf^ed

the common kidney-bean {Phaseolus vulgaris, Linn.)
of many varieties ; and also the scarlet Runner (P. mul-
tijiorus, WlLiiD). Kidney-beans are the haricots of the

16*

182 KITCHEN GARDEN.

French, who enumerate upwards of two hundred varie-
ties. The sorts usually cultivated in England are —

Early YelloAV. Cream-Colored.

Early Red-Speckled. Black-Speckled.

Early Negro. Brown-Sp6ckled.

Early AYhite. Scarlet Runner.

Falmer's Eariy. Dutch White Runner.

The first four are the earliest; the others are better
fitted for a general crop. As the plant is of tropical
origin, our climate is scarcely sufficient for the exten-
sive production of the ripe beans, which are the princi-
pal object in France and Italy ; but the immature le-
gumes are produced copiously, and are most in demand in
this country.

In England it is seldom advantageous to sow kidney-
beans in the open ground before the middle or end of
April ; after which period succe&sive sowings may be
made every fourteen days to the end of July. The
plants are grown in rows two feet apart, and the earth
is carefully drawn to the roots. When, owing to the
nature of the season, great quantities of pods come at
one time, the superfluous produce should be gathered for
picking. Kjdney-beans are well adapted for forcing in hot-
beds or hot-houses; the climate of the peach-house,when it
can be obtained, being considered the best. The sow-
ings may begin in January; -they are made in pots, and
a supply may be thus obtained in the months of March,
April, and May. The Dwarf-speckled is often used in
hOT-houses, and the Early white in hotbeds. But per-
haps the best of all for this purpose is Vibert's variety,
or the Black Haricot of Flanders : the plant is naturally
of very dwarfish growth ; it flowers early ; the pods are

THE BEAN. 183

smooth and straight/and of a very lively green color,
so that for haricots verts this is decidedly preferable.

Among the kinds known in -the United States as
Bunch-BeanSy or, from their valuable characteristics of
crispness, Snap Shorts, are the following : JEarly Mo-
haiuk, Early Six- Weeks, Early Valentine, Yelloiv Six-
Week^, Late Valentine, or Refugee, Black Valentine,
'Royal White Kidney, di,ndi Ohina Red-eye. The Early
Valentine variety is extensively cultivated for the Phil-
adelphia market. The pods are round, and continue on
the vines fit for culinary purposes a long time. Bush-
beans of the kind just named may be planted in the
Middle States from the first of April till the last of Au-
gust. The first planting is very apt to be nipped by
the frost.

Climbing beans, commonly called Pole Beans, are ex-
tensively' cultivated in the United States, especially that
called the Lima, of which there are two varieties, the
white and the green, the latter being the largest, but
the white producing the most certain crops. When
eaten, both kinds are taken from the pods like peas.
• In the vicinity of Philadelphia, where they are raised
very abundantly, Lima beans are planted in the last
week in April, in hills three and a half by four feet
apart, precisely like corn. The hills should consist of
good rich soil, raised only a few inches above the gene-
ral level, with five or six beans in each, covered about
two inches deep. If all the seeds grow, the plants may
be thinned to .three. If they fail, replanting will ^f
course be required. Although they will, in rich ground
and in a good season, grow to the length of twenty feet,
the poles usually employed for their support are not

184 KITCHEN GARDEN.

over ten or twelve feet in height, it being necessary that
two feet shall be under ground.

The Carolina Seiuee, or Sala Bean, though not so
large, has all the habits of the Lima, but is more hardy
and a more abundant producer, although inferior in
richness and buttery character.

A variety of Pole Beans, called the Dutch Case-Knife,
is used either with or without the pod or hull, and is
also well adapted for winter use. It has a fine flavor,
produces well, and comes earlier for the table than either
the Lima or Carolina varieties.

The kind called Scarlet Runners, from their red blos-
soms, require to be planted rather earlier than the Lima,
and need the same kind of support.

What are known in England as the Windsor and Early
Long Pod Beans, are not so well adapted to the Ameri-
can climate as the varieties just referred to, They may
be planted in cool situations, in drills a foot and a half
asunder, and two inches apart in the row.

Esculent Roots.

The Potato [Solanum tuberosum). — This well-know'n
plant is a native of the elevated regions of equatorial
America. It w-as introduced into Europe about the
middle of the sixteenth century, but remained little
known or regarded till within the last hundred years :
it is now so generally cultivated as to have effected almost
an economical revolution in this country. Most of the
original British sorts have been derived from Ireland.
Its multitudinous, varieties almost set enumeration at
defiance, and new ones are appearing and disappearing
every year. By much the most correct list of the va-
rieties now in cultivation is to be found in Mr, Charles

THE POTATO. 185

Lawson's useful book, entitled The Agriculturist's Ma-
nual. They are arranged in various classes, out of which
we shall select a very few names of the more esteemed
sorts. The first class consists of the earliest garden
varieties of dwarfish growth, and therefore well adapt-
ed for forcing, such as Fox's Early Delight, and the
Early Kidney. The next class contains those very
early kinds, of taller growth, which yield the first gar-
den crop ; including the Hopetoun Early, Harold's
Early, Invermay Early, the new Elm-leaved Kidney,
and Ash-leaved Early, and Early Seedling. Of these,
the Hopetoun is perhaps the best : the tubers are round,
dry, early, and of tolerable size ; but in all the kinds,
the mealiness and earliness necessarily depend a good
deal on soil, situation, and the quality of the season.
The third class embraces those which generally form the
principalgarden crop, and includes the Prince of Wales
Early, tall American Early, Shaw's Early, Taylor's
Forty-fold, and Matchless Kidney. For cultivation in
the home-farm, the Edinburgh Dons, and the Perthshire
Reds (of which last there are two or three subvarieties),
have not yet been surpassed. The culture of the late
sorts properly belongs to the farm, and "^hen the gar-
dener has to take them under his care, he will find it
best to adopt such as are common in the agriculture of
the district. What is called the Everlasting Potato is
a late sort, the tubers of which have the property of re-
taining, during winter, the delicate waxy flavor of
young potatoes. They are left in the ground, but cov-
ered with litter to prevent the access of frost. It may
here be remarked, tliat if the tubers of any good late
variety, such as the Edinburgh Don or the Stalfold Hall,
be buried in the earth so deep as to prevent vegetation.

186 KITCHEN GARDEN.

and kept there till the beginning of autumn, or if their
growth be in any way retarded, and if they be planted
at that season of the year, young potatoes may thus be
procured, during the winter season, by merely prevent-
ing the access of frost with a covering of litter.

Potatoes are commonly propagated by dividing the
tubers, leaving to each cut one or two eyes or buds.
The sets are then planted by the aid of the dibble or
spade, in rows at a distance varying from fifteen inches
to two feet. It was suggested by the late Mr. Knight,
and his views have been amply confirmed by experi-
ment, that by planting whole tubers, and at great dis-
tances, a larger produce might be obtained. Mr. Knight
proposed to -leave four feet between the rows, a distance
which, except with the larger varieties, was found to be
unnecessarily great. An experienced horticulturist in
Scotland states, that by planting whole tubers, and by
leaving in the ease of dwarfs two feet, and in the tall
varieties two feet and a half, between the rows, a return
from one-third to one-half more was obtained than could
be had from the old method. Of course more tubers
are required for planting, but these bear no proportion
to the great increase which results ; and besides, early
potatoes at the planting season being unfit for table
use, there is little economy in sparing them.

The earliest crop should, if possible, be placed in a
light soil, and in a warm situation, and should be planted
about the middle of March. Sometimes the eyes of the
tubers are made to spring or vegetate on a hotbed, and
the plants are put out as soon as the leaves can bear
the open air. Perhaps it is better, as recommended by
Mr. Saul, of Lancaster, to promote incipient vegetation
in some warm jilace, as a house oi> green-house, by lay-

THE POTATO. 187

ing a woolen cloth or some other covering over them.
When the sprouts are about two inches long, he plants
them out towards the end of March, and thus procures
young potatoes in seven or eight weeks. In some places,
the plants are forced to some extent, by being protected
in frames covered with oiled paper. A secondary plant-
ing of tubers should be made before the middle of April.
"When the stems are a few inches above ground, the
earth should be drawn to them ; an operation, how-
ever, which, while it improves the crop, delays its ma-
turity for two or three weeks'. Mr. Knight recommends
removing the flowers as they appear, and states that by
this means the produce is increased by a tori per acre.
The fine early varieties, however, scarcely produce any
flowers.

An important fact in the cultivation of the potato
was observed about the year 1-806, by the late Mr. Thomas
Dickson, of Edinburgh, viz., that the most healthy and
productive plants were to be obtained by employing as
seed-stock unripe tubers, or even by planting only the
wet or least-ripened ends of long-shaped potatoes ; and
he proposed this as a preventive of the well-known dis,-
ease called the Curl. This view was confirmed by the
late Mr. Knight. An intelligent writer in the Gar-
deners Magazine suggests a method by which sprout-
ing of the eyes is accelerated. He takes up the seed
potatoes a considerable time before they are ripe, and
exposes them for some weeks to the influence of a scorch-
ing sun. The resulting crop is at least a fortnight earlier ;
but it is not said how this practice aff'ects the curl.*

* It is not thousUt necessary here to enter on the subject of
the very general potato disease of 1845 and 1846. Notwithsfeand-

188 KlTCHEN GARDEN.

The forcing of early potatoes on hotbeds has long
been practiced ; but it is attended "with considerable
trouble and expense. Small supplies of- young waxy
tubers are now often produced during winter, in boxes
placed in a mushroom-house, or in a common cellar, if
free from frost. In October, old potatoes are placed in
layers, alternating with a mixture of tree-leaves and
light mould. Vegetation soon proceeds ; and there be-
ing no opportunity for the unfolding of stems and leaves,
the energies of the plants are expanded in the produc-
tion of young tubers. Before njid-winter these often
attain the size and appearance of early potatoes ; but
they are much inferior in quality, being wa,tery and of
little flavor.

Of the varieties known in the United States, the Mer-
cer, an American Seedling, is almost exclusively the
market potato of Philadelphia, .where however some few
persons fairly appreciate the superior value for eating of
the Foxite. The Mercer and Pink-eye varieties are most
prized in New York, whilst the two varieties known by
the names of Blue Jackets and Winnebagoes, are most
esteemed at the Eastward. Few if any of the varieties
found to succeed best in England do well in the United
States, where native seedlings, including .such as we
have named, turn out by far the best crops, both as to
quantity and quality. The potato yields best in the
Northern and Eastern States, especially Maine, where it
enters largely into the farmer's crops.

Where the soil is heavy, a compost is recommended

ing numerous inquiries and publications, nothing satisfactory,
eitlier as to cause or cure, has been established, and, fortunately,
the evil is gradually disappearing.

THE POTATO. 189

to lighten and arouse it up, and render it productive,
consisting of well-decayed leaves, fresh stable manure, and
ashes, well mixed. Unless the land be new virgin soil,
it is in vain to expect a heavy crop of potatoes without a
previous heavy manuring. Fresh stable manure is pre-
ferred to .that which h^s been allowed to rot. The po-
tato in its growth takes up a great deal of potash, and
hence the great utility of ashes as a fertilizer peculiarly
adapted to this crop. The green sand marl of New Jer-
sey, Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia, is well known
to increase the product of the potato, and this it is sup-
posed to do by virtue of the potash it contains. A cool
climate and rather moist soil being most favorable to
this root, it has been found highly advantageous to keep
the manure on the top of the potatoes, as this affords
protection against the heating and drying effects of the
sun. Where the potatoes have been planted, and the
ground entirely covered soon afterwards with a thin lay-
er of straw or coarse hay, fine crops have been produced,
although no subsequent cultivation was resorted to.

Potatoes are planted sometimes whole, but most fre-
quently cut into several pieces. Some persons contend
that the largest sized potatoes should alone be taken for
planting, others think the medium sized preferable,
whilst others again believe the very smallest will answer
every purpose. Those who use the smallest sizes should
be careful to plant them entire, or cut but very little.
A large-sized potato may be so divided as to make eight
sets, whilst one of medium size should not bo divided
into more than four or six sets. The sets should be laid
in the rows with the eyes upwards, and about ten inches
apart, the rows being from eighteen to twenty inches
asunder in gardens, but wider in lots and fields, where
17

190 KITCHEN GARDEN.

thej are worked by the cultivator and plpugh. The sets
for planting should be cut at least a week before they
are to go in the ground, and it is a good plan to roll
them in ground plaster of Paris or old-slaked lime.

The culture of the potato should not be repeated upon
the same ground until after a lapse of many years. It
is also very advantageous to change them from one kind
of soil to another. The first crop should be put in as
early in March as the frost will permit, and the manure
laid beneath the seed. The late crop may be planted
about the middle of April or beginning of May, although
fine yields are often obtained from planting a month
later. But there is risk in planting late from the droughts
of summer, and from their liability of taking on a second
growth in autumn, should the season be wet. In some
parts of Britain,and especially in Ireland, they sometimes
transplant from one field to another the stems of grow-
ing potatoes, after these have grown six or eight inches
long, in the same way that cabbage plants are set out,
and the crops are said to be equally good with those
where the potato sets were used. .But this evidently re-
quires for its success a climate much more moist than
can be found in the United States, unless it be in
Oregon.

Sweet Potato {Convolvulus Batatus). — The Sweet
Potato grows to great perfection in the Southern States-,
and also in that portion of New Jersey and Delaware
where the soil is light, sandj, and warm. • The first step
in their culture is to pi-ovide the sprouts which are to be
planted out in hills. For this purpose, the whole pota-
toes are placed five or six inches apart in hotbeds early
in April, and covered three or four inches deep. When

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 191

they throw up sprouts, which may be expected in three
or four weeks after planting, these, when about three or
four inches above the level of the bed^ may be separated
from the parent root and planted out in hills, leaving
other shoots to follow for successive plantings. The
setting-out must be in beds about four feet apart, each
bed or hill being raised nearly a foot above the common
level of the ground. Some make continuous banks four
feet apart, and plant the sprouts on the top about afoot
asunder. After planting, they have to be kept clean of
weeds until the vines cover the ground and . prevent
further working. A shovelful of some good rotten
manure, street dirt, or light compost, should be put into
each hill previous to putting out the sets.

Jerusalem Artichoke {Helicmthus tuherosus) or tu-
berous-rooted sunflower. — This plant, which is a native
of Brazil, derives its epithet Jerusalem from a corrup-
tion of the Italian ijrirasole, sunflower, and Artichoke^
from the resemblance, in flavor, which its tubers bear
to the floral receptacles or bottoms of the artichoke. It
is propagated by means of its tubers in the manner of
potatoes. In March they are planted out in rows three
or four feet asunder, and in autumn the new tubers are
fit for use. For the sake of convenience, it is advan-
tageous to store them, though the roots are hardy
enough to bear the winter frosts. Some, indeed, allow
them to remain in the ground, and dig them up when
required. In this way a suflicient number of sets are
generally left in the ground, and the stalks are thinned
into rows in summer ; but this is a slovenly mode of treat-
ment, and seldom produces well-flavored crops.

192 KITCHEN GARDEN.

The Turnip {Brassica Rapa), like the potato, has,
to a great extent, migrated into the fields, and become
the care of the husbandman more than of the gardener.
The following are the most esteemed garden sorts in
England :

Early White Dutch. Yellow Maltese.

Early Stone. Dutch Yellow.

Green-topped White. ^Aberdeen Yellow.
Long White. ' Teltow.

Besides these, the Navet of the French [Brassica
Wapus V, esoulenta) is occasionally cultivated, and more
frequently the Swedish Turnip or Rutabaga {Brassica
caynpestris v. Napo-hrassica, L.), which is a most excel-
lent winter sort, though it belongs more properly to the
farm. For early crops, the white Dutch is the princi-
pal variety ; the other white sorts, and the beautiful yel-
low Maltese, are useful in summer and in the beginning
of autumn. The yellow Dutch being capable of endur-
ing a considerable degree of frost, affords the most ap-
propriate winter supply. The teltow or French turnip
is remarkable for being high-flavored, and is used only
for seasoning to soups or stews.

Turnips succeed best in- a rich, well-worked soil, of
a light or medium quality. The first sowing is made
about the end of March, in a warm situation ; and it is
usual to put in additional sowings, once a fortnight or
three weeks, till the end of August. The early crops
are sown broadcast^ and the later in drills about a foot
asunder. After the plants have shown a rough leaf or
two, they are thinned out, being left at the distance of
eight or ten inches in the drill ; and the ground is hoed
and kept free from Aveeds. A-s turnips which have stood
the winter throw up their seed-stalks early in spring,

THE TURNIP. 193

after which their roots become stringy, and are much
deteriorated, it is useful to store the turnips in the win-
ter, keeping them in a close place, and covering them
with straw.

A small sowing may take place so late as the middle
of September ; and if the winter prove mild or open
(as often happened previous to 1837-8), young turnips
of excellent flavor may thus be procured irt the months
of January and February. The best sort for this late
sowing is the Dutch yellow, which (as already hinted)
resists the cold and inclement weather better than the
white. For this winter crop a liberal application of
stimulating manure, such as rape-cake and pigeon-
dung, was recommended by the late excellent Mr. Stuart
of Pinkie garden : he sowed in drills a foot asunder,
and thinned out the plants to six inches apart in the
drills : a sheltered border was preferred, but no other
artificial prot-ection was given ; and his success was com-
plete.

The young plants, while in the seed leaf, are often
destroyed b^ a small beetle called the turnip-fly [Hal-
tica nemorum). Many remedies have been, proposed :
it has been found beneficial to dust the rows with quick-
lime-; but perhaps the best precaution is to sow thick,
and thus ensure a sufiicient supply both for the insect
and the crop. The insect soon ceases to feed and disr
appears. -

In the United States the Turnip, though a highly va-
luable product of the soil, is by no means so important
a crop as it is in England. The varieties which have
been found best adapted to, the soil and climate of the
Middle States, are theUarly White Butch or White
Strap-lcavedj of which there arc the round and flat

17*

194 KITCHEN GARDEN.

kinds ; the Early Red-top Butch, or Strap-leaved Red-
top., resembling the preceding in form, but having the
portion of the root .which grows above ground of a red
or purple color; .the Early Yellow Butch. For spring
use, the Swedish Turnip, or Ruta Baga, should be sown
from the middle to the end of July.

It is computed that an ounce of seed will suffice for
a bed four feet wide by forty long. For an early crop,
sow as soon as the frost is out of the ground, in drills
or broad-cast, as most convenient. For the fall and
winter supply, sow in August. In dry seasons, the young
turnips are very apt to be eaten off by the turnip fly, so
that, to obviate this and other causes of failure, resowings
are often called for. When the plants are too thick, thej
should be thinned to about three inches apart. Good
seed will germinate, under favorable circumstances,
in from thirty-six to- forty-eight hours.

The Carrot (Baucus Qarota) is one of the native
Umbelliferse of England, but has been much transformed
by cultivation ; the root swelling; and becoming succu-
lent and of agreeable flavor. The best varieties are
the Early Home or Dutch, and the Orange-red Carrot ;
the former for early, the latter for general cultivation.
The Altringham or Large Orange Carrot is in- great
repute; it is distinguished by a. considerable portion of
the root remaining, above ground. The carrot likes .a
light, deep, fresh soil, in which it may be at liberty to
push down its long spindle-shaped roots. A few Early
Home carrots may be sown in February on a. moderate
hotbed. In the beginning of March, -the same sort may
be sown in the open air. In April, the orange variety
may follow as a general crop : it succeeds best in drills.

TUE PARSNIP. 195

The Long White Carrot is of delicate flavor, is easily
cultivated, but does not keep well. In many old gar-
dens, the early plants are liable to the attacks of a small
grub, the larva of some insect ; it is therefore a useful
precaution to sow a moderate crop of the Early Home
variety in July. After sowing, it is only necessary to
thin the plants, and keep them clear of weeds. The
roots are stored- in winter in the manner of turnips.

Carrot seed, being so extremely light, should be sown
when the weather is perfectly calm, disposed in drills
or rows and covered very lightly, say not more than half
an inch deep. To separate the seeds, which are apt to
stick together, let them be rubbed between the hands in
dry sand or earth. When the plants are up, they may
be thinned with a narrow hoe, or otherwise, so as to be
left from three to four inches apart, and if intended to
remain long in the ground, they may be left six inches
apart. The usual time for sowing the main crop in the
United States is from the first of May to the first of
June.

The Parsnip [Pastinaca sativa) is novf less cultivated
in England than it was in Catholic times, when it was
a favorite accotapaniment to dried fish in Lent. To
some its flavor is not agreeable ; but is a very nutritious
vegetable, and of easy digestion. • Like the carrot, its
root is long and tapering, diff*ering chie^y in being ef
a whitish color. Its culture is also very much the same.
There is a variety with short roundish roots, called the
Turnip-rooted Parsnip, very well suited for garden cul-
ture.

The parsnip is a sweet and wholesome vegetable, more
generally relished and eaten at American tables than

196 KITCHEN GARDEN.

the carrot. They are also sometimes made into a mar-
malade, and are even said to be capable of yielding a
good wine. They constitute an admirable food for horses,
mixed of course with dry food, and when given to cows
add greatly to the quantity and good quality of the
milky products, to which they impart no unpleasant fla-
vor, such as is found to follow the Uvse of the turnip,
cabbage, &c. Th-e varieties best known in the Middle
States are the Guernese^, and the Sugar or Holloio
Croivn, the first being best adapted for large crops in
fields, and the latter for gardens. They may be sown
in tlie spring from March to May, in drills, and covered
about an inch deep. Thin to eight inches. Left in the
ground, they will stand almost any degree of freezing
cold in winter.

Red Beet {Beta vwZ^ar/s) a biennial plant, native
of the shores of the south of Europe. . The boiled root
is eatQ^n ooldj in thin slices, either by itself or as a
salad : it is also often used as a pickle. The varieties
are numerous, but the most common are the Long-root-
ed, the Short or Turnip-J'ooted, the Bassano, and- the
Gigantic dark beet. ■' There is a fine French variety
cJllled Castelnaudary, from a town in Languedoc ; but
as yet it is little known in this country.

The red beet prospers in a rich, deep soil, not recently
manured, and which "has been well pulverized by the
spade. During April the seeds may be sown in drills,
fifteen inches asunder, and the plants are afterwards to
be thinned to eight inches from each other in the lines*
In the northern parts of the island, the roots are stored
in winter, care being taken not to break them or cut off
the leaves too closely, as they bleed when injured.

SKIRRET. 197

In the United States the beet is a favorite vegetable,
largely cultivated in gardens for the table, and in lots
and fields for stock. The Sugar Beet and Ruta Baga
are, however, generally chosen for the latter purpose.

The Turnip-rooted variety is considered the earliest,
whilst the Long Red is planted for the principal crop
from the middle of May to the 20th of June.

The White Beet (Beta cicla) is chiefly cultivated for
its stalks or leaves, the mid-rib of which, divested of the
sides or leafy part, is added to soups, or, when peeled
and, boiled,' dressed and eaten like asparagus. The
Siuiss Chard is one variety of the white beet, used in the
same way. The Silver or Sea-Kale Beet much resem-
bles the White Beet, but has much larger leaves and
stems, and when cooked bears more resemblance to
Sea-Kale.

The beet is sown as soon as the frost is out of the
ground. For this, as for all root crops, the soil
should be broken deep, and rendered very fine. Drop
the seeds in the drills about three inches apart, cover
an inch deep and tread, or roll tlip. earth down firmly.
When up and finely growing, thin out to six inches apart.

Skirret {jSium Sisarum) is a native of China, now
seldom seen in English gardens. Its tubers are used
like parsnips. It is a perennial, and may be propagat-
ed by separating the roots in spring ; but it succeeds
better by annual sowings, which may be nfade in April.

This root is a white, sweet, and pleasant vegetable,
cooked and eatenr much like Salsify. The seed may be
sown in beds from the middle of April to the first of May.
They should be placed i\\ drills, and when well started
in growth, thinned so as to remain five or six inches

198 KITCHEN GARDEN.

apart. The roots will be fit for the table about the mid-
dle of November, and, like those of the carrot, &c., so
continue till spring. But they do not resist frost like the
parsnip, and require- to .be taken up and stored away in
a shed or cellar, covered with dry sand or earth.

ScoRZONERA {Scorzoiiera ' Hispaniea) and Salsify
{Trdgopogon porrif alius) are generally associated to-
gether in gardens, and are now less cultivated in Eng-
land than they deserve. The toots are used in soups-,
and sometimes as dressed side-dishes. They are sown
in lines, and treated like the crops of red beet or
parsnip.

Salsify, known by the common appellation of Oyster
Plants is a native of Britain, where it is found growing
wild in the fields. Its white roots, somewhat resem-
bling small parsnips, are much esteemed by many who
trace in their flavor some resemblance to that of the
oyster. The green stems or shoots, which rise from the
roots of yoaT old plants in the spring, are boiled and
eaten, like asparagus. In the Middle States, the seed
may be sown pretty thickly, any time in April or May,
in drills a foot apart, covering them an inch deep. Thin
the growing plants first to three inches, and finally so
as to stand only six inches apart. The culture resem-
bles that for parsnips and carrots. In autumn, before
hard frosts set in, some of the roots might be taken up
for use, and secured in moist sand under shelter. Or,
like parsnips, they may be left in the ground and dug up
as wanted, remaining good all winter.

The Radish (Raphanus sativus) is a native of Cliinar.
There are two principal varieties, the spindle-rooted and

OXALIS ROOTS. 199

the turnip-rooted radish ; and of these the subvarieties
are numerous. The following may be mentioned :

Spindle-shaped. Round-shaped.

Short-topped Scarlet. AVhite Turnip.

Scarlet Salmon. Yellow Turnip.

Long White. White Spanish.

White Russian. Black Spanish.

The first two and the white turnip radish are best suit-
ed for early crops, the scarlet salmon for summer, the
yellow turnip for autumn, and the white and black
Spanish for winter. There are, besides, oval or oblong
Summer Radishes, both white and red, lately brought
into notice.

Some cultivators in England sow their earliest crop
in November, in a warm situation, at the foot of a wall
or in front of a pinery, and continue sowing once a
month, if weather permit, during winter. Others grow
their first radishes under frames, aiding vegetation by a
slight bottom-heat. As the season advances, succes-
sional supplies are sown once a fortnight. From the
middle of July to the middle of September the turnip-
radishes are sown from time to time ; and on the ap-
proach of frost they may be stored up in sand, andiept
throughout winter.

OxALis Roots ( Oxalis crenata, Jacq. ; 0. arracachaj
G. Don) have of late years been cultivated for the table
in England. The plant produces tubers at the root,
somewhat in the manner of the potato ; but they are of
smaller size, seldom exceeding that of a walnut. By
cultivation, however, by manuring, laying down, earth-
ing up, watering, and other helps known to horticultur-
ists, considerable increase of size in the tubers may be,
effected. From the mode of culture adopted by the

200 KitCHEN GAEDEN.

most intelligent gardeners, we conclude that a rich light
soil is the most proper ; that it is useful to forward the
plants in a hotbed, in the way practiced with early peas,
so as to have them ready to transplant by the middle
or end of May ; that in planting out they should be
inserted in a sloping position, so that a considerable
portion of the stem may be covered by the soil ; that
earthing up, or drawing up additional soil to the stems
in June and July is important ; and that laying down
the stems horizontally in August, and covering them
slightly (to the depth perhaps of two inches) witE mould,
tends greatly to promote their productiveness. It should
be observed that the tubers continue to swell in size till
November, or till stopped by frost. It is believed that
the largest tubers, having full eyes or buds, yield the
strongest plants ; and, therefore, a portion of the largest
should be reserved for seed-stock. Cut sets of these
large tubers are, by some cultivators, preferred to whole
tubers. The rest, from the size of a filbert to a walnut,
go to the cook. The mode of dressing for table is sim-
ple. The tubers, after being cleaned, are boiled for
about ten minutes,or till they be slightly softened ; and
they are then served up with white sauce. Some per-
sons merely put them into boiling water for a few mi-
nutes ; then, pouring off the water, transfer them to a
covered saucepan ; and place the pan upon hot cinders,
drawing some of these to the lid ; in this way the tubers
are rendered more dry or mealy. They have a pleasant
flavor ; somewhat resembling a new potato, with the ad-
ditional zest of a nut or kernel ; but also with a certain
decree of acidity. The oxalis conies from the same
country that afforded us the invaluable potato, and has
been extolled as likely to rival it ; but this it will never

OXALIS ROOTS. 201

do: a dish of oxalis may form an agreeable variety and
adjunct, but no more; bearing to the potato such rela-
tion as sea-kale does to asparagu^. It may be added,
hoAvever, thiiJb the oxalis crenata-is, in other respects, a
useful vegetable. The leaves may be used as salad, and
they constitute, indeed, the principal salad at Lima.
The shoots and young branches are found to make an
agreeable pur^e,* having the wood-sorrel flavor; and
the larger stems have been used in tarts, in the manner
of rhubarb stalks, and been found more tender. The
Oxalis -Deppei tubers are hardy, prolific, and excellent
when properly cooked ; being free of the acidity of that
of 0. crenata.

The tuberous roots of a lately introduced species of
Indian Cress, Tropwolum tuherosum, were for some
time in vogue, being praised as having, when boiled, a
''very delicate flavor, resembling the richest asparagus.''
The plant is readily multiplied by cuttings during the
summer months ; and the young plants thus produced
furnish a crop of tubers late in the autumn of the same
year. But these have not maintained their character ;
most people regarding their sharp anise flavor as far
from delicate. They are better adapted for being used
as a pickle. ,

JSfasturtiiun, or Indian Cress, {Tropwolum Majus).
The common yellow-flowered nasturtium, whilst it orna-
ments the flower garden with its rich yellow or crim-
son blossoms, is a valuable product of the kitchen gar-
den. It is considered a native of Peru or Chili. The
curled leaf-stems and green seed pods are eaten as salads,
or made into pickles, rivaling capers. The seed may

* A French soup.

202 KITCHEN GARDKN.

be- sown about the first of April, in rows or patches,
and covered an inch deep. As the plants ^viil run from
five feet to three times that length, they must be provided
with proper supports, and will form excellent trellises,
or blinds. The yellow stands the heat better than the
crimson.

Alliaceous Plants.

The Onion {Allium Cepa) is two well krroAvn to re-
quire description, and has been cultivated ia England
from time immemorial. Among' the varieties maybe
enumerated :

Strasburg. White Portugal or Reading.

French Yellow. Nqcera Onion.

James's Keeying. Blood Red.

Globe. Tripoli or Giant.

Silver-skinned, large and small.. Potato,. tree, and Pearl Onion.

Besides these, the Welsh Onion' or Ciboule {Allium fis-
tulosum, It.), a native of Siberia, is sometimes grown
for scallions. Eor a general crop, the Strasburg, French
Yellow, and James's Keeping' varieties may be esteemed
the best, as they are hardy and keep long. -The White
Portugal grows to a large size, is mild in flavor, but
does not keep well. The small Silver-skinned is chiefly
used for pickling. The Nocera,' introduced by Mr.
Lawson in 1843, is not only of good quality, but pos-
sesses the advantage of not being so apt to send .up
flower-stalks as the other kinds.

The onion afi'ects a light, rich^ well-worked soil, which
has not been recently manured. The principal crop
may be sown in the course of the month of March, ac-
cording to the state of, the weather apd the dryness of
the ground. Onions are cultivated in beds, four or five

THE ONION. 203

feet in width, and are regularly thinned, hoed, and kept
free from, weeds. About the beginning of September
the crop is ripe or ready for lifting, which is known by
the withering of the leaves; the roots are taken up,
and, after being well dried in the open air, are stored
in a garret or loft, where they may be perfectly secured
from damp.

Towards the end of August a secondary crop is sown,
to afford a supply of young onions or scallions, as they
are called, in the spring months. The Strasburg and
White Portugal may be used for this purpose. Those
which are not required for the kitchen may be allowed
to stand, and if the flower-bud be picked out on its first
appearance, and the earth be stirred about them, they
will frequently produce bulbs equal in size and quality
to the large ones that are imported from the Continent.

Some eminent horticulturists have strongly recom-
mended the transplanting of onions. Mr. Knight re-
commends sowing the White Portugal onion in May
under the shade of a tree, where the plants remain of
a diminutive size, .during the autumn and winter, and
are planted out in the succeeding spring. Other culti-
vators collect all the minute bulbs of the ordinary crop,
and use them in the same way. Mr. Macdonald, Dal-
keith Park, was in the 'practice of confining his opera-
tions to one summer. He sowed in February on a slight
hotbed, or sometimes merely under a glass-fraine. In
the first or second week of April, according to the 'state
of the weather, he transplanted the young seedlings in
rows, eight inches asunder, and at the distance of four
or five, inches in the row. Previous to planting, the
roots of the seedlings- were dipped in a puddle of one
part of soot to three parts of earth, an expedient which

204 KITCHEN GARDEN.

was found useful in guarding the transplanted onions
from the attack of the wire-worm. He found that
onions thus treated attained a large size.

The Potato- Onion is propagated by the lateral
bulbs, which it throws out, under ground, in considej.\a-
ble numbers. It may be planted about midwinter, and
will ripen early in the summer. Its flavor is not un-
pleasant ; but the plant, being rather troublesome in
cultivation, is not likely to supersede the common onion.

The Tree-Onion, introduced from Canada, is a vi-
viparous variety, producing small bulbs in place of
flowers ; but the bulbs are strong-scented.

The Pearl-Onion, of recent introduction into Eng-
land, and hitherto little known {Allium Hallerii, G.
Don?), produces clusters or small bulbs at the root.
These little bulbs are of a fine white color, like the sil-
ver-skinned, and very fit for pickling.

The onion requires a very' rich soil, and forms an ex-
ception to most plants in regard to the necessity of
changing the ground. Where the same patch has been
kept well manured, heavy annual crops have been taken
off for thirty or forty years successively.

In the Middle States, where a field crop is the object,
the ground, after being heavily manured, is d\ig or
ploughed early in spring, well raked or harrowed, and
divided into very shallow drills about nine inches apart,
with alleys between every three rows about fifteen inches
in width. Young onions about the size of beans are to
be planted in these rows or drills, but not- covered with
earth. These are to be thinned so as to stand about
three inches apart, and kept clean and hoed every few
days. In June, the vacant alleys may be dug and plant-
ed in cabbage, as this will not interfere with the onion

THE ONION. 205

crop, Tvliich ripens and coraes off in July.* After being
pulled they are laid out to dry, and then placed under
shelter.

The young onions intended for planting the succeed-
ing year are raised from seed sown in shallow drills
early in April. About the middle of July, when they
have attained the size of beans, these are taken out of the
ground, and put away in some dry place where there is
a free circulaticm of air, and thus kept till the following
spring to be planted out as described.

With regard to the onion in the American climate, it
is a singular fact that they will not ripen (in the Mid-
dle States at least) unless the seed be sown very early
in the spring. . They may, however, be preserved in
their places through the winter by a light covering of
old or short manure, straw or other litter, placed over
them in the fall.

Although they may not become fully matured, onions
can, however, be raised from the seed in one season suf-
ficiently large for culinary purposes, and, where the soil
and other circumstances are peculiarly congenial, quite
as large as those which have occupied two seasons in
their development.

With regard to the Potato or Underground Onion, it
may be necessary to state that they should be planted
in March, in rows eighteen inches apart, and six inches
from bulb to bulb, which should be covered about three
inches deep. Cultivate and earth or hill up like pota-
toes, and they w^ill continue to grow till about the first

* When the onion bulbs are well expanded, they are injured if
the ground be stirred around them with the hoe. Therefore, if
the weeds require removal, this must be done by hand.

■ 18*

^06 KITXJHEN GARDEN.

of A-ugust, when they are to be taken out of the ground,
dried and treated like onions raised in the ordinary
way. A single onion, slightly covered, will often pro-
duce'five or six of good size.

The Tree or WeWh Onion is adapted to very cold
countries, shooting up rank stems, upon which small
bulbs grow instead of seeds. These small bulbs are pre-
served and planted out next year, producing roots
of considerable size, besides a fresh supply of little seed
bulbs on the stems.

The Leek {Allium Porrum) is a native of Switzer-
land, but has probably been cultivated in England for
many centuries. The varieties are the narrow-leaved
or Flanders leek, the Scotch or flag-leek, and the
broad-leaved or tall London leek. Of these, the Scotch
leek is considered as the. most hardy ; and Mr. Handasy-
de's Musselburgh variety is preferred.

Leeks are sown in beds in spring, and in June or July
are planted out in rows fifteen or eighteen inches apart,
and six inches asunder between the rows. The tips of
the fibrous roots are trimmed before planting. When
the weather is moist, it is found be-nefieial merely to lay
the plants into the hole made by the dibble, withcrut
closing the earth upon it, the stem being by this means
enctiuraged to swell out and fill the hole.

Shallot {AlTium ascalonicuni) is a native x)f Pales-
tine. It is much used in cookery for high-flavored soups
and gravies, and is sometimes put into pickles. A va-
riety called the Long-keeping is preferred. It is pro-
pagated by the cloves, the smallest being selected for
that purpose, and planted in October or November,

SPINACH. 207

Some recommend the mixing of soot witli.tlie manure,
as a protection against the attacks of maggots, by which
this pLant is greatly infested. Late autumn planting,
however, is found the best expedient, as the bulbs are
ripe and lifted next summer before the larvoe commence
their depredations.

Garlic {Allium Sativum) and Rocambole [Allium
Scerodoprasum), thoilgh common ingredients in conti-
nental cookery, are comparatively seldom used in Eng-
land. A few rows wilh generally be found sufficient.
They are propagated by offsets or cloves from the bulbs,
or by the bulbils which grow on the flower-stem. The
Oiiivj: or Qive [Allium Schoenoprasum), a pretty little
native plant, is used occasionally as salad and alliaceous
seasoning. A single row may be planted as an edging
to an onion bed, and it ,is easily increased by parting
the r^ots in spring and autumn. - This is a hardy pe-
rennial, and when once started inay be kept growing for
many years. Its flavor partakes of that of the leek
and onion.

Spinaceous Plants.

Spinach [Spinacea oleracea) is an annual plant, and
is a native of Western Asia. It has long been cultivat-
ed for the' sake of its succulent leaves, which, when pro-
perly dressed, form an agreeable and nutritious article
of food. There are three varieties: the smooth-seeded,
the large-leaved or Flanders, having also smooth seeds",
and the prickly-seeded. The latter, as being the most
hardy, i& often called winter spinach.

The first sowing is made in August, in some sheltered
situation ; th-e plants, as they advance, are thinned, an'd
the o:round is hood. In the be^innino; of winter the out-

208 KITCHEN GARDEN.

er leaves become fit for .use ; in mild weather suoeessive
gatherings are obtained, and, with proper managetoent,
the crops may be prolonged to the beginning of May.

To afford a succession-crop, the seeds of the round-
leaved smooth-seeded varieties should be sown in the
end of January, and again in February a<nd March.
From this period it is proper to sow small quantities
once a fortnight, summer spinach lasting only a short
time. The open spaces between the lines of cauliflower,
and others of the cabbage tribe, will generally afford,
enough of room for these transient crops. They are
generally sown in shallow drills, and are thinned out
and .weeded as may be required.

In the United States, the winter crops of spinach are
sown in August, and the plants "generally protected
through the winter by a light covering of matts, straw,
or other clean litter. The crops intended for summer
and fall use, may be sown from the first of April to the
middle of May, and will come in very well between the
rows of peas. It requires rich grorund, and is almost-
worthless where grown on thin or "exhausted soil.
When too thick, the plants are to-be thinned out.
The seed, though commonly sown broad-cast, are best
in drills or rows nine inches, apart, so as to admit of
hoeing between.

New Zealand Spinach {Tetragonia expansa) is a
half-hardy annual, a native of New Zealand, from-
which it was brought by the late Sir Joseph Banks.
The plants grow^ tall, spread wide, and the leaves form
a good substitute for spinach. If the plants be well
watered, they will continue to; afford large quantities of
succulent leaves during the hottest and driest weather.

SPINACH. 209

when summer spinach is useless. In England, the seed
is usually sown in a pot placed in a melon-frame in
March: the seedlings are transplanted singly into small
pots, and kept under cover till the beginning of June,
when they are plung<3d out at two or three feet apart,
and treated somewhat like gourds. In gathering the
leaves, care should be taken not to injure the leading
shoots.

QuiNOA Spixach ((77ie?207JO(izi^m Quinoa). This vege-
table's a native not only of Chili but of the table-land of
Mexico. It is described and figured by Ruiz and Pavon ;
and Humboldt informs us that in Mexico the leaves are
universally used as spinach or greens, and the seeds in
soups, or like rice, so that quinoa there vies in utility
with the potato itself. Although the plant had been known
in Britain for a number of years, it was only during
the autumn of 1834 that any considerable portion of seed
was ripened or saved. in this country. This was accom-
plished at Boyton in Wiltshire, by Mr. Aylmer Bourke
Lambert, tlie well-known patron of botany and horticul-
ture. . Considering the elevated region in America in
which the quinoa is successfully cultivated, there can
be no doubt that its herbage may be freely produced in
England ; but it seems probable that in order to' secure
the ripening of seeds, it will be requisite to place some
plants close by a wall baving a south or south-west as-
pect, as is practiced, with seedling onions ; more especi-
ally since we arc warned by Willdenow that in Germany
"semina sub dionon semper perficit." There are two
varie4:ies, the common white-seeded or green quinoa, and
the dark-seeded or red quinoa, the former seemingly
the more hardy, or at least germinating most freely.

210 KITCHEN GAUDEN.

In the United States, the seed of Quinoa may be
sown thinly, about the first of April, in rows an inch
deep and about two feet apart. In a green state, the
seed-pods make an excellent pickle. It has been
raised, in the vicinity of Baltimore, by Mr. Gideon B.
Smith, who found it very productive.- It is cultivated
in Peru and Chili a's a grain crop,- from whence its com-
mon name of Peruvian Rice, Eor further particulars
in regard to this plant, the modes of preparing it as
food, &c., see Farmers' and Planters' 3net/clopdedia,
article Quinoa.

Garden Orache {Atriplex liortensis), Wild Spinach
{Chenopodium Bonus Henricus), and Ga^den'Patience
{Rumex Patientia), are sometimes used in place of
common spinach ; but as, in England at least, they are
deemed rather curious than useful, it may be suflScient
merely to indicate their names.

Corn Salad {Fedia OUtoria), called also Fettitus,
or Lambs' Lettuce, is extensively cultivated and used
in the United States as a spring raw salad. In France,
they often boiP and dress it like spiiiachi [^

The seed is usually sown, about- the middle of Sep-
tember, in shallow drills, six inches apart, and covered
lightly. Keep clear of weeds, and in November cover
liglitly with straw or other clean litter. In mild winters
the tender leaves will be fit for salad all the time, and
should not be cut, but plucked with the fingers. If the
seed used be not fresh, it will frequently be many
months before it comes up. It grows spontaneously in
the wheat-fields in England, in which climate it stands
the winter in the fields, and affords early pasturage to

ASPARAGUS. 211

sheep and lambs, from wliicli last circumstance it de-
rives one of its common names.

Asparaginous Plants.

Asparagus {Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial
plant, a native of the shx)res of Britain, w.here it occurs
sparingly, and of the steppes in the. east of EuropjO.
Though somewhat unpromising while in a state of na-
ture, it ^affords, in cultivation, an esculent of considerable
Value, and is therefore grown extensively both in pri-
vate and in sale gardens. The principal varieties are
the rcdtopijed and the green-topijcd, of which the latter,
while it is less succulent, is considered the better fla-
vored. There are numerous subvarieties, such as the
Battersea, Gravesend, Giant, &c., which differ only
slightly from those already meiltioned.

Asparagus, growing naturally on loose sand, should
have a light, deep soil, through which it maybe able to
shoot its long stringy roots. Two feet and a half is
considered a desirable depth, but in France the ground
is sometimes prepared, by trenching- and sifting, to the
double of thut depth. A considerable 'portion of old
dung or of recent sea-weed is laid in the bottom of the
trench ; arid another top-dressing of well-rotted manure
should be digged in preparatory to pknting or sowing.
The older horticulturists used to grow their asparagus
in beds four or five feet wide, with intervening alleys
of about eighteen inches in breadth. At 'present, in
Scotland, it is customary to sow or plant in rows from
three to four feet asunder, a method which, in every
way, is found to be most convenient. Except where
the garden is new, when, of course, it is- advantageous

212 KITCHEN GARDEN.

to procure a supply of ready-grown plants, it is thought
preferable to keep up the stock of asparagus by sowing.

The sowing is made in March, in slight drills ; and,
as a portion of the seed often fails to germinate, it is a
good precaution to employ about double the quantity of
seed that may be ultimately necessary. If the plants
come up too thickly, they may be thinned out towards
the end of the first summer, to the distance of about six
inches in the rows.. The ground is hoed and kept clear
of weeds. It is a common practice in England to take
slight crops of onions, lettuce, cauliflower, or turnip,
between the lines of asparagus during the first, and, if
the rows be wide, also in the second year. The young
heads or stalks, the part used, should not be cut before
the third spring, and they are not in perfection till the
fourth or fifth.

The asparagus quarter can scarcely.be oyer-manured.
The proper time to perform this operation is in the end
of autumn, when the annual flower-stalks are removed,
preparatory for winter. When beds are employed, their
surface should be stirred with a fork ; a layer of well-
rotted hotbed dung is then laid on, and the whote
covered with a sprinkling of earth from the alleys. If
the plants are grown in rows, the manure is simply dug
in by means of a three-pronged fork, care being taken
not to injure the roots. This operation is repeated an-
nually, and no. other culture is required. I^ is necessary
to,observe a due moderation in reaping the crop, as the
shoots, when much cut, become progressively smaller
and less valuable. Hence it is a general rule with gar-
deners never to gather asparagus after peas have be-
gun to come into season. Thus managed, a. bed will
continue productive for a number of years.

ASPARAGUS. 213

Asparagus' readily admits othe'mg forced. The most
common method in England is to prepare, early in the
year, a moderate hotbed of stable-litter, and to cover it
with a common frame. After the heat of fermentation
has somewhat subsided, the surface of the bed is lined
with turf, to prevent the escape of vapor; a layer of
light earth or exhausted tan-bark is put over the' turf,
and in this the roots of asparagus plants five or six
years old are closely placed. The crowns of the roots
are then covered with two or three inches of soil. A
common three-light frame may hold 500 or 600 plants,
and will afford a supply for several weeks. After plant-
ing, linings are applied when necessary, and air is occa-
sionally admitted. Care must be taken not to scorch
the roots. Where there are pits for the culture of late
melons or succession pine-plants, such as the Alder-
ston-pit, or the succession-pit with the hot water cir-
culation, they may advantageously be applied to this
purpose.

It has sometimes been recommended to^ force aspara-
gus on the ground on which it grows. Perhaps the best
method is that suggested by Mr. Spiers, in vol. iv. of
the G-ardener'^s Mac^azine. The seed is sown in beds
four feet eight inches wide, and there are four rows of
plants eleven inches asunder in the beds. The beds
are to have side trenches, two feet wide, ^nd two feet,
deep, lined by pigeon-hole brickwork — an operation
which We presume need not be performed till imme-
diately before forcing,- that is, when the plants are at
least three years old* In October, when the stalks are
cleared away, the _surface is covered with straw-litter.
When forcing is- commenced, the brick-lined trenches
are filled with hot stable-dung, well beaten, to about
19

214 ^KITCHEN GARDEN.

eighteen inches above the surface of the ground. The
bed is also covered with prepared dung* In about
twelve days, when the buds have begun to appear, the
latter covering is removed, glazed frames are placed,
resting upon the brickwork, a little fine soil is sifted
over the plunts, the linings in the trenches are raised
higher, and the whole treated like a common hotbed.
In this way, we are informed, excellent supplies may
be obtained, and the plants may be forced every year.

Before leaving this subject, it may be mentioned that
about Bath the young flower-spikes of Ornitliogalum
fpyrenaicum^ found native in that neighborhood, are
used like asparagus, under the name Prussian G-rass.

Much time may be saved in getting full-bearing beds,
if,- instead of sowing the seed, the roots be set out, a
practice commonly resorted to in the United States,
where the young roots are a regular marketable ar-
ticle. ' The soil should be a loam, at least two feet deep,
and cannot well be made too rich. The beds should be
about four feet wide with two feet alleys between. The
roots, when taken up, must not be long exposed to the
air, so as to get dry, and should be deposited in rows
drawn with a line stretched lengthwise on the bed,
about twelve inches asunder, beginning nine inches from
the edge. The small trench or furrows may be about
three inches deqp, and the roots set in these about nine
inches apart, are to be covered with the fine earth
thrown out" in making the furrows. ■ The cultivation
durilig the .first season consists merely in keeping down
the weeds and grass. The succeeding -winter, cover
three or four inches deep with well-rotted manure.
In order to secure the formation of strong crowns, the
plants are allowed during the first two summers to run

SEA-KALE. 215

up to stalks. After the third year, the stalks should
be cut down close to the ground, the beds kept clean
from weeds, and in winter covered with two or three
inches of manure. As soon in the spring as the frost
is out of the ground, the earth in the beds should be
loosened by means of a fork introduced into the soil to
the depth of three or four inches, turning up the earth
carefully, so as not to injure the roots. Trim off the
edges of the beds, so as to make them even. . A full
crop may be expected the fourth season after planting.
Cutting' should not be continued after, the middle of
June. Beds well situated and properly managed will
continue to yield good crops for twelve or fifteen years.
Salt and brine will be found extremely valuable appli-
cations to the asparagus beds, and should be put on in
winter.

Sea-Kale [Qraynhe-maritima) is a perennial plant,
growing spontaneously on the shores of the southern
parts of England. The roots are spreading, the leaves
wav^d, glaucous,- and covered with a fine mealy bloom,
and the stalks rise to about_two feet high, bearing white
flowers, which smell of honey, followed by seed-pods,
each containing a single seed.

The country people in the west of England have long
been accustomed to use in spi'ing the young shoots,
which, by passing through the sand and gravel on
which they grow, are somewdiat blanched and rendered
tender. In conformity with this practice, the cultiva-
tion formerly recommended consisted merely in cover-
ing the beds on the approach of spring with a little dry
earth or sand, in order to the blanching or internating
of the shoots. These Avere cut as they appeared' in

216 KITCHEN GARDEN.

March and April. Now, however, the blanching is not
only much more completely effected, but simple means
have been devised for supplying the table for half the
year, includin-g all the winter months. It has within
these few years become a vegetable of common oc-
currence in the markets both of London and Edin-
burgh.

Sea-kale seems partial to a light dry soil. If manure
be added, it should consist of sea-weed or half-rotted
leaves of trees. The plants may be propagated by off-
sets, or small pieces of the roots having buds or eyes
attached to them ; but the most eligible method is by
seed. Very tolerable blanched stalks are sometimes
produced by plants only nine months old from the seed,
and after two summers, seedling plants will have ac-
quired sufficient strength for general cropping. The
sowing is made in March, the seeds being' deposited in
patches of three or four together: the patches are ar-
ranged in lines three feet apart, and two feet in the
line. In order to secure a succession, and to obviate
the bad effects of forcing, it is proper to sow a few lines
of sea-kale every year.

Various modes of blanching the shoots have been re-
sorted to. In the first volume of the Memoirs of the
Oaledo7iian Horticultural Society^ Sir George S. Mac-
kenzie describes a very convenient method. The sea-
kale bed is merely covered, early in spring, with clean
and dry oat-straw, which is removed as often as it be-
comes musty. The shoots rise through the straw, and
are at the same time pretty well blanched. Others
employ dried 'tree-leaves for -this purpose. Another
method, practiced by many gardeners consists ^in
placing over each plant a flower-pot of the largest size

SEA-KALE. 21-7

inyerted; but conYcment blanching -pots, with movable
lids, have been constructed for the express purpose.
It may be proper to provide from thirty to sixty such
pots; and it may be expected that each pot will, on an
average, furnish a dish and a half of shoots during the
season.

With the aid of these pots, sea-kale is /or(?^(^ in the
open border in the way now to be described. ^ In the
latter end of autumn a bed of vigorous sea-kale plants
is dressed, that is, the stalks are cut over, and the de-
cayed leaves are removed. The ground is, at the same
time, loosened about the eyes, and a thin stratum of
gravel or sifted coal-ashes is laid on the surface to keep
down earth-worms. A pot with a movable cover is
placed over each plant or each patch of plants. Stable-
litter is then closely packed all round the pots, and
raised up to about a foot above them; the whole bed
thus assuming the form and appearance of a large hot-
bed. When fermentation begins, a thermometer should
be occasionally introduced into a few of the pots, to
ascertain that the temperature within does not exceed
60° Fahrenheit, and the depth of the litter is to be re-
gulated accordingly. The vegetation of the included
plants is speedily promoted; so that, in the space of
a month or six weeks, the shoots will be ready for cut-
ting, which being thus excluded from the light, are
most effectually blanched, and found to be exceedingly
tender and crisp. By means of the movable lids, the
plants are examined and the shoots gathered without
materially disturbing the litter. By commencing the
litter coverings, at various times, on different portions
of the quarter, a supply of sea-kale for the table can be

19*

218 KITCHEN GARDEN.

readily furnished from the middle of November till the
middle of May.

This vegetable, though not as well known in the
United States as it deserves to be, can be raised with
very little trouble. The seed may be sown thinly in
March or in April, in drills about a foot apart, and
-covered about an inch deep. When the plants begin
to grow, thin out so as to leave -them at first an inch,
and afterwards two or three inches apart. In November,
cover the crowns of the roots with earth raised a few
riches. Early in the following spring, prepare a bed
similar to that intended for asparagus, digging the. soil
at least fifteen inches deep. Set out the plants, about
two feet apart, the crown of each root being placed
about two inches below the level of the bed. The beds
will continue to produce as long as those of asparagus,
and like this are greatly improved by applications of
salt and brine: The plants should not be allowed to
go to seed. This vegetable is in season from Christmas
to April.

The Artichoke {Oynara Soohjmus) is a perennial
plant, a native of the south of Europe, and a well-known
inhabitant of our gardens. It resembles a thistle on a
large scale. In France, the entire head or whole leaves
of the involucre of the artichoke are eaten, when in a
young and tender state, en poivrade, or with pepper,
salt, and vinegar ; but in England, the only parts used
are the base of the leaves of the calyx, and the imma-
ture receptacle, or phoranthium, commonly called the
bottom, heQdi from the bristly seed-down which has been
called the chohe. The varieties are the Conical or French,
the Globe or Red artichoke, and the Dwarf globe. Of

THE ARTICHOKE. . 219

these the first is the highest flavored, the second is well
for a general crop, and the third is prolific, and occupies
little room.

The artichoke requires a deep, cool, dry soil. It is
propagated by parting the roots in April, the sets being
planted in rows four or five feet asunder, and two feet
apart in the rows. The young plants generally afford a
crop which succeeds that of old plants ; and for this
reason a new plantation is made in some gardens every
year. During summer the plants are to be kept clear
of weeds, but require little other attention. In No-
vember the decay stems and leaves are removed, and
the ground cleared. Sometimes the earth is ridged
slightly around the roots, in order to defend the stools
from the frost. This, however^ is done more effectually
by ^ litter of straw, or of the refuse of the stable-yard,
of the depth of a foot, drawn close round the base of
the leaves. In April this litter is taken away, the stools
are examined, and two- or three only of the strongest
shoots are permitted to remain. The offsets, which are
carefully removed, afford materials for a young planta-
tion. In the north of Prance, where a severe winter
is apt wholly to destroy the artichoke quarter, it has
been- found advantageous to take up at the commence-
ment of winter a number of the most vigorous stools,
with the eyes or buds entire, and to store them in a
cellar free from- the influence of frost. They are re-
planted in the spring ; and not only do they grow well,
but*M. Vilmorin mentions that they afford an earlier
crop than the shoots left in the ground. In the spring,
the ground between the rows is digged over. At this
time manure may be, applied ; well-rotted hotbed dung,
andj above all, sea weeds, being considered preferable.

220 KITCHEN GARDEN.

The Cardoon {Cynara Cardunculus) is a perennial
plant, a native of the south of France and Spain. It
has a close resemblance to the artichoke, but surpasses
it in size. The edible part or chard, as it is called, is
composed of the blanched and crisp stalks of the inner
leaves. Besides the common sort, there is a kind called
the Spanish Cardoon, which many prefer ; and also a
prickly variety, known by the name of the Cardoon of
Tours, and much used on the Continent. The common
artichoke is likewise employed occasionally for the pro-
duction of chard'. Cardoons are foun^d to prosper best eii
light deep soil. The seed is sown annually about the mid-
dle of May, in shallow trenches, like those for celery, and
the plants are thinned out to ten or twelve inches from
each other in the lines. In dry weather water is co-
piously supplied, not only to increase the succulence of
the leaves, but to prevent the formation of flower-stalks,
which render the plant useless. In autumn the leaves
are applied close to each other, and wrapped round with
bands of hay or- straw, the points of the leaves only
being left free. Earth is then drawn up around the
leaf-stems to the height of fifteen or eighteen inches.
Sometimes cardoons are blanched by a more thorough
earthing up, in the manner of celery ; but in this case
the operation must be commenced in summer, and re-
gularly carried on through the autumn. During severe
frost the tops of the leaves' should be defended with
straw or haulm.

The Rampion [Camiyanula Hapunculus) is an Eng-
lish native biennial, the roots of which, under the name
of ramps, are used raw as a salad, or boiled like aspara-
gus. It is but little cultivated in Britain. Where,

LETTUCE. 221

however, it is desired, the seed is sown broadcast, about
the beginning of June, in a cool situation, and the young
plants are merely thinned and kept clear of weeds. On
the approach of frost, the roots, which somewhat re-
semble small radishes, are stored in sand, and will keep
fresh and firm till spring.

Salads.

Lettuce {Lactuca sativa) is a hardy annual, but of
what country it is a native is unknown. Some suppose
it to be a seminal variety of the native L. virosa^ a poi-
sonous plant, "which," says Professor Lindley, ''would
not be more remarkable than the fact that the indigenous
celery is one of our strongest poisons." Besides its
well-known uses, it may be mentioned that the late Dr.
Dundan, Senior, of Edinburgh, prepared from its milky
juice a medicine denominated Lactucarium, similar in
its action to opium, but capable of being- administered
in cases where idiosyncratic repugnance rendered that
.powerful drug inadmissible. There are two principal
varieties, the Cos or upright, and the round-lieaded or
Cabbage lettuce. The subvarieties are numerous : we
may mention the following :^—

Upright. Round.

Black-seeded Cos. White Cabbage.

Bath Cos. Brown Dutch.

White Cos. Marseilles.

Crov.-n Cos. Grand Admirable.

By proper care, fresh lettuce may be had tliroughout
the whole year. The first sowing is made in January,
in some sheltered situation, or under hand-glasses, or
in February on a gentle hotbed. The seedlings are
transplanted as soon as the weather will permit. A

222 KITCHEN GARDEN.

second sowing may be made in the beginning of March,
and another in April. Of all culinary crops, lettuce is
reckoned the least exhausting, some gardeners, indeed,
regarding it as tending to enrich rather than impoverish
the soil: it' may therefore be raised on the fruit-tree
borders. Besides the ordinary compartment, the seed-
ling's may be planted on celery ridges, between rows of
slight crops of other vegetables, and, in short, in any
odd corner which may occur. To obtain a winter sup-
ply, a sow^ing of some of the more hardy varieties, such
as the Black-seeded green, or Bath Cos, and the"Brown
Dutch, is made in August or September, and the plants
are pricked out in October, along the bottom of walls,
or under glazed frames.

Endive {Cichorhim Endivia) is an annual plant, a
native of China, from which it was introduced in 1548.
It is the lettuce of winter, the blanched hearts being
used for salads and in soups. The varieties most com-
monly cultivated in England are the Broad-leaved Ba-
tavian and Small Batavian, the Green Cifrled-leaved
and the White Curled-leaved. By the French, the
former are called Scarioles ; the latter, C/c/iorees. A
sowing may be made in the beginning of June, and
another in July, the seeds being scattered very sparsely,
that the plants may not come up in clusters. The
seedlings are transplanted into a rich soil, where they
are arranged in rows twelve or fifteen inches asunder,
and at the distance of ten inches in the row. Some-
times they are planted in drills to facilitate the opera-
tion of blanching. The later crop should be placed
in a sheltered situation, where it may be able to. w^ith-
stand the winter, which it will do, unless the frost prove

succoiiY. 223

very intense. When the plants have reached their
maturity, the leaves are gathered up, and tied together
an inch or two below the tips, and afterwards about the
middle of .the plant. In two or three weeks they are
found sufficiently 'blanched for use.- In wiater it is ne-
cessary to draw the earth quite up about the leaves.
At that season, too, the plants may be inserted into a
sloping bank of earth, or blanched in boxes in the
mushroom-house or in a cellar.

Succory (Oiehoriurfi Intt/hus) h in England an in-
digenous perennial plant, the cultivation of which, for
culinary purposes, may be said to have been introduced
into Britain by the refugees during' tbje French revolu-
tionary war. By the French it is much esteemed as a
winter salady and being often asked for .by foreign coot;s,
a small portion should be raised in every large garden
establishment. When blanched, it is. known, by the
name oi Barhe die CajmcJmi. W^hen succory is culti-
vated in the garden for winter use, the, seed is sown in
May or June, commonly in drills, and the plants are
thinned out to four inches apart. If the first set of
leaves grow very strong, owing to wet weather, they,
are cut off perhaps in the middle of August, about an
inch from the ground, so as to promote the production
of new leaves, and check the formation of flower-stems.
About the beginning of October the plants are raised
from the border * all the large leaves are cut off ; the
roots are also shortened. They are then planted pretty
closely together in boxes filled Avith rich light mould,
and watered when nejcdful. When frost comes on, the
boxes are protected by any kind of haulm. As the
salad is wanted, they are removed into some place hav-

224 KITCHEN GARDEN.

ing a moderately increased temperature, but with little
light, such as a mushroom-houseor cellar off the kitchen.
Each box affords two crops of blanched leaves, and
these are reckoned fit for cutting when about six inches
long. A neat mode of producing the h(;irhe in any
common dark cellar, from whence frost is excluded, is
described in the Horticultural Tour, p. 368. The suc-
cory roots are packed among moist sand, in a barrel, in
the sides of which numerous round holes have been
pierced, each about an inch and a half in diameter.
The crowns of the roots are so placed that the shoots
may readily push their way through tlie openings ; "they
are thu^ kept quite clean, and are delicately blanched ;
they ca-n be very easily gathered as wanted, and re-
peated cuttings are afforded during winter and early
spring. There is a Continental variety of succory hav-
ing larger rox)ts than usual, and known by the name of
OMecoree a ■ Cafe, the tuberous roots of which, dried,
and cut into little pieces, were, during the great war,
frequently employed as a substitute for coffee-beans,
and in Flanders, and some parts of France, a portion
of them is still very often mixed with coffee.

Parsley (A2?m7n Petroselinum) is a biennial plant, of
well-known use in cookery. It is said to be a native of
Sardinia, but it now grows spontaneously in various parts
of Britain. The varieties are, the Commpa, the Curled-
leaved, and the Hamburg, the last of which is cultivated
for the sake of its tuberous roots. The curled-leaved
is the most ornamental, and it possesses the advantage
of being- readily, distinguished from the poisonous
^thusa, which resembles the common parsley. Parsley
prefers a light, rich soil. It is sown in drills about the

CELERY. 225

beginning of March, and the seed lies some weeks in
the ground before the plants appear. As they grow up
they are thinned out, and they are defended by branches
or other coverings from hard weather in winter. The
Hamburgh variety is sown about the same time in
a. well-trenched soil, in drills a foot apart, and it is
thinned to about nine inches in the rows. In the be-
ginning of November, the roots are taken up and stored
in sand.

Celery [Apium graveolens) is a native British bien-
nial, an inhabitant of the sides of ditches near the sea.
In its wild state, it is of an acrid nature, and of a coarse
rank flavor; but by cultivation it is improved into
one of the most agreeable salads. There are two prin-
cipal varieties ; celery, properly so called, with upright
stalks and fibrous or slightly tuberous roots ; and cele-
riao, with large turnip-shaped roots. Of the former,
the principal subvarieties are, the Italian, the Red
Solid, and the White Solid, of which the second and
third are the best.

In England, celery is usually sown at three difierent
times: on a hotbed in the beginning of March, and in
the open ground in March, and again in April. The
seedlings, when about two inches high, are pricked into
rich soil, in which they are allowed to stand till they
be four or five inches high. The first crop is defended
by frames or hand-glasses, and is planted wide, to admit
-of being lifted with balls of earth adhering to the roots.
Towards the end of May, trenches for blanching the
celery are prepared. These trenches are three and a
half or four feet apart, fifteen inches wide at the bottom,
and about a foot below the natural level of the surface.
20

226 KITCHEN GARDEN.

The soil at the bottom of the trench is carefully digged
and manured, and a single row of plants is placed ia
each trench. Sometimes, when a large supply is re-
quired, the trenches are made six feet wide, and, after
a similar preparation, rows fifteen or eighteen inches
apart are planted^ across the trenches. As the plants
advance in growth, earth is laid up about the stalks of
the leaves, an operation which is repeated at the end
of every ten or fifteen days, care being taken not to
choke the plants. As the celery approaches maturity,
scarcely anything but the tips of the leaves appear above
the ridges, and, when lifted, the stalks are found to be
completely blanched. Successional crops should then
be planted out. Celery succeeds best in a rich, light
soil, having an abundance of moisture.

In the United States, the Red Solid or Manchester
Red variety of celery is found to resist the frost better
than the White Solid, which last is, however, the most
crisp and delicately flavored.

Oeleriac, or turnip-rooted celery {Celeri-rave of the
French), is treated at first like the early crop of com-
mon celery. In the beginning or middle of June it is
planted out in a flat bed, in drills fifteen inches apart.
A single earthing afterwards suffices. Its large, round
roots are used in soups, and are much relished by some.
It is, however, more attended to in France and the Low
Countries than . in Britain. There is a curly-leaved
variety, which seems to possess no advantage but its
more ornamental foliage.

Garden Cress {Lepidium ativum), of which the
Normandy curled cress is .the best variety, and White

WATER CRESS. 227

Mustard {Sinapis alba), are generally associated in
their use as salads, and in their culture in the garden.
They are annual plants, and are eaten only when very
young. In winter, they may be raised on a slight hot-
bed; in spring, under hand-glasses, or in drills near a
south wall, and in summer, when they should be sown
once a fortnight, in drills, in any cool, shady situation.
Table mustard, which is made from the seeds of Sinapis
nigra, Lix., belongs rather to the department of agri-
culture. Durham mustard, which is distinguished for
its poignancy, though not remarkable for fine color, is
said to be made principally from the seeds of the com-
mon yellow field-mustard or charlock, Sinapis arvensis,
LiN.

■ Water Cress {Sisymbrium nasturtium). — This is a
creeping perennial aquatic plant, very extensively sup-
plied in the English markets. It requires for its proper
growth a clear stream of shallow water, not more than
ail inch and a half in depth, running over clear sand
and gravel. Deep and still water, especially if the
bottom be muddy, is unfavorable. The best situations
are in streams near their sources, where the water sel-
dom freezes in winter, as here they continue to grow
and may be gathered all winter. In planting, the sets
are put in rows about eighteen inches apart, and length-
wise with the stream. If the depth of water be at
first only about an inch, as soon as they begin to grow
they will so obstruct its course as soon to increase it
to three or four inches above the leaves, a depth re-
garded as highly favorable to the growth of the cresses.
It is absolutely requisite that the water shall be always
running, for when the stream becomes obstructed the

228 KITCHEN GARDEN.

plants cease to thrive. After thej are cut three times
they begin to stock, and then the oftener they are cut
the better. The cress is regarded as a very wholesome
raw salad vegetable, eaten at all seasons, but more
especially in winter and spring, when its warm and
cordial qualities make it particularly grateful. It is
frequently found growing spontaneously in streams, and
beds should be established wherever there is a good
spring of running water. A little spot of low ground,
capable of being irrigated, can be turned up with the
spade in the spring, and sown with seed, or set out with
plants. The water may be turned on and off at plea-
sure, and all the further culture con&ists in keeping
them clear of every kind of weed, and preventing their
being injured or destroyed by drought.

It may be here observed that the wild Pepper Grass
(Lepidium virginicum), which grows spontaneously al-
most everywhere in the United States, is a species of
cress. See Farmers' and Planters'' Encyclopwdia, article
American Cress.

Of Rhubarb {Bheum), several species and many va-
rieties are cultivated for the purpose of supplying mate-
rials for tarts, the foot-stalks of the leaves being well
adapted for that purpose, and coming into use at a most
convenient season, when apples are becoming scarce.
M. rhaponticum with red stalks, and palmatum with
green, were the species first employed, and these are
still occasionally used; but the sorts now preferred are
seminal varieties, mostly allied to R. hyhridum and R,
undulatum. The following are worthy of notice:^

Wilmot's. Buck's.

Gigantic. Culbertson's.

Elford.

RHUBARB. % 229

Of these, the editor of the HoHieultural Register pre-
fers the first two, the former as being excellently suited
for forcing, the latter as growing to a large size without
rankness. The stalks of Buck's Early and the Elford
are of a bright scarlet color, which they retain even
when forced in the dark ; and they are at the same time
tender and of delicate flavor. Excellent jam and jelly
have been made from these by Mr. James M'Nab, of
the Horticultural Society's Garden, Edinburgh. Of
late, two new varieties have eclipsed all former kinds,
viz., Myatt's Victoria and Youell's Tobolsk. Both
yield stalks of great size, and w^hich yet fall well when
boiled or baked. A very useful variety is known at
Edinburgh by the name of Culbertson's Rhubarb. It
is less apt to shoot into flower than most other sorts ;
and, although the leaf-stalks are small, they are very
numerous. The rhubarbs may be multiplied by divid-
ing the roots ; and this is the common practice ; but
they thrive much better when grown from seed. Mr.
Paxton recommends sowing on a slight hotbed in spring,
and transplanting out in rows in the month of May.
Formerly no stalks were gathered from the seedling
plants for the first two years ; but Myatt's Victoria
^rows so rapidly as to permit cutting even in the first
season. A rich but porous soil suits the plant best.
Where liquid manure can be applied to a light soil, the
leaves attain a very large size. A portion of the crop
is allowed to come on under the general influence of the
season ; but much also is forced, which may be done in
a variety of w^ays. Some treat rhubarb like sea-kale,
covering the roots allowed to remain in the ground with
large pots or boxes, and surrounding them with fer-
menting stable-litter. Others take up the roots in

20-'^

230 KITCHEN GARDEN.

autumn, pot them, and force them in vineries or hot-
beds. Perhaps the best method is to procure long nar-
row boxes, of a moderate depth, and to place them,
packed full. of roots, in a mushroom-house or cellar,
where there is considerable temperature. The rhubarb
soon throws up its stalks; and these, being partially
etiolated, possess a delicacy and flavor superior to those
grown in the open air. It is easy, by varying the time
of subjecting the boxes to the increased temperature, to
keep up a succession of rhubarb stalks, from the period
at which kitchen apples become scarce or begin to lose
their flavor till green gooseberries come into season.

3Ielons.

Under this common name are embraced both the
Water-melon and the Musk-melon, or Cantaloupe, al-
though so essentially diiferent in botanical characters
as to belong to different families.

- Water-Melon (CuGurUta Oitrulhis). — This refresh-
ing tropical fruit perfects itself in the open air in almost
every portion of the Middle and Southern States, espe-
cially in the latter. It requires a light sandy soil and
plenty of heat, and will not succeed in tenacious soils or
or cool situations. It is planted in hills, which, owing to
the great distance to which the runners extend, ought
to be eight feet apart. The seed are best when two
years old, and one ounce will be sufficient to plant from
forty to fifty hills. AVhen wanted of very large size,
but three or four melons should be left to each vine.
By such thinning they may, in good seasons and situa-
tions, be brought to weigh twenty-five and thirty pounds
each. There are many varieties known in the Phila-

cantaloupe". 231

delphia market, such as the Carolina, Spanish, Long
Green, Mountain Sweet, etc. These have all red pulp,
and the last-named is much superior to the others. There
are other varieties with yellow or light-colored pulp.

Cantaloupe. — These come to great perfection in the
open air throughout the Southern and Middle States,
wherever the soil is favorable. The light sandy allu-
vials of New Jersey are very favorable to their growth.
There are many varieties, no less than fourteen of
which, the best known in England, will be found enu-
merated under the head of Melon^ in the portion of this
treatise relating to the operations of the forcing garden.

The old-fashioned Blush-melon, with its smooth and
yellow rind, slightly ribbed, although once very exten-
sively cultivated, has given place to the better-flavored
Nutmeg^ Cantaloupe, and HocJc-melon, with rough rind
and greener and firmer flesh, and the Netted Citron.
This last, which derives its name from the raised net-
like appearance on its outer surface, is of an oval form.
When well grown, specimens will often weigh from two
to five pounds. The -flesh is of a greenish color, firm,
yet juicy, and high flavored. When in its greatest
purity and perfection, it is considered the best melon of
its kind.

The seed of the Cantaloupe are usually planted about
thefirstof May, when the spring frosts are no longer to be
apprehended, in hills or beds, about six feet apart each
way. In preparing the hills, the most approved way
is to dig out the earth about a foot deep and two wide,
and fill up the holes thus made with a compost consist-
ing of a mixture, in equal parts, of old well-rotted ma-
nure, sand, and good garden soil and street dirt, where

232 KITCHEN GARDEN.

this -can be had. The hills maybe heaped up about
six inches above the common level of the ground. Eight
or ten seeds may be put into the middle of each hill, a
few inches apart, and covered with about half an inch
of loose earth.

When the growth of the plants has sufficiently ad-
vanced, thin out so as to leave but three or four in each
hill. The beds are to be kept well hoed and cleared of
weeds. For the purpose of strengthening the vines,
gardeners recommend what they call " topping," which
consists of pinching off the end of each plant when it
has made four or. five rough leaves. This makes them
branch out and bring their fruit earlier. After the
runners are spread out, no farther, culture should be
given. Particular care ^should be observed to keep
these melons separated from cucumbers, gourds, and
plants of a similar family, as otherwise great deteriora-
tion will result.

Pumpkin [Cucurhita Pepo). — Many varieties of
these are cultivated in America, such as the Mammoth,
or Spanish, Connecticut Field, White Bell, &c. The
larger sorts, some of which have been found to weigh
two hundred and fifty pounds, are only fit to feed pigs
and cattle. Pumpkin seed are generally planted in
May and June, in the.carn-fields, the hills being raised
between the corn-rows, and made from eight to ten feet
apart. The culture resembles that of the Cantaloupe,
and they are not by any means so particular in their
choice of soils as melons. The Cashaw Pumpkin is a
variety resembling the Winter Squash, and is the best
variety for table use and making into pies and pud-
dings.

SQUASH- — VEGETABLE MARROW. 238

Squash {Cucurlita Melopepo). — In the United States
this vegetable is of universal use, and generally ready
for the table in June, continuing to be eaten through
July and August. There are two varieties most com-
monly cultivated. The Patty Pan, or Ea7'Ii/ Bush, is
preferred for early crops. It is of a yellowish-white
color, flattened shape, and, though dwarfish in growth,
is very productive. The Large Green, or G-reen- Striped
Squash, has a long crooked neck, with a few whitish
stripes. It does not come so early, but, on good ground,
is very luxuriant and productive.

The seed are usually planted so as to produce a suc-
cession of crops in May, June, and July. They are
deposited in hills about four feet apart, and, made like
those for cucumbers and cantaloupes, the management
being very similar. They are fit for use when not
larger than the fist, and cease to be eaten when the skin
becomes too hard to be penetrated by the finger-nail.

The Winter Squash, Valparaiso Squash, with some
other varieties of a similar kind, differ very materially
from ihe^Simimer Squash, and bear more resemblance
to the pumpkin family in size, shape, color of the meat,
and flavor.

Vegetable Marrow {Cucurhita Ovifera). — This is a
species of the gourd family, and bears a resemblance
to both the pumpkin and squash. The fruit is oval,
and the inside very fleshy and of a rich yellow color.
When cooked, it is agreeable and nutritious. The cul-
ture is conducted similar to that of the pumpkin and
squash. It should not be confounded with another
member of the gourd tribe, sometimes called by the

234 KITCHEN GARDEN.

same name, and which grows several feet in. length,
being slender and curved.

Cucumber {Ciieumis Satinus). — The cultivation of
this vegetable in the United States is conducted so
nearly like that of the cantaloupe, that we only refer to
what we have just said in relation to the best mode of
raising those melons as almost equally applicable to
that of the cucumber. But the cucumber will thrive
and prove highly productive almost everywhere, whilst
the cantaloupe often fails in places in which it does not
find the proper kind of light and sandy soil conjoined
with sufficient heat. In the Middle States, the seed
may be planted any time in May. Immediately after
coming up, the plants of both the cucumber and can-
taloupe are liable to be attacked by a very little black
bug. The ravages of this have sometim^es been checked
by sprinkling or sifting over the plants some ashes or
soot, either alone or mixed together. This should be
done in the morning whilst the leaves are still moist
with dew. When three rough leaves have been made,
the ends of the shoots should be pinched off, so as to
make them branch out and fruit sooner. For the va-
rieties of the cucumber best known in England, we refer
to the part of this treatise which treats of the operations
of the forcing garden.

Egg Plant [Solanum 3felongena). — There are two
varieties of this plant commonly cultivated in the United
States, one of which is a large, oval-shaped, purple-co-
lored fruit, often weighing many pounds, and used for
cooking; the other variety, being white and much
smaller, though good when eaten, is generally raised

OKRA. 235

for ornament. In the Middle and Northern States, the
seeds of this plant are sown about the first of March in
hotbeds, the sashes of which should be kept down close
until the plants come up, when they may be slightly
raised, so as to admit a little air, in the middle of the
day. The seeds require considerable warmth to make
them vegetate, which warmth must be kept up to bring
the plants forward. They will not bear the least cold when
very young, and ought, therefore, to have a division to
themselves, free from association with cabbage-plants
and other vegetables which are generally benefited by
more or less exposure to the atmosphere during a por-
tion of the day.

The young plants may be taken from their beds about
the middle of May, if the weather be warm and settled,
and set out in hills from two feet to two and a half feet
apart, in a rich, warm soil, kept clean, and when about
a foot high, sKghtly hilled by drawing some earth around
them. The plants of the white variety are generally
transplanted into pots.

Okra {Hibiscus Esculentis). — This West India plant
is much cultivated in the Southern and some of the
Middle States, chiefly as an addition to soup. Its long
and green pods, full of seed and abounding in mucus,
form the chief ingredient in the famous gumbo-soup of
the South, and hence the plant is often called Gumbo.
The beauty of its flowers, which much resemble those of
the cotton-plant, to which family it belongs, makes it
an ornament to the parterre.

The seed may be sown in drills about two feet apart,
and lightly covered, as soon as there is no danger from
spring frosts ; namely, in: the Middle States, about the

236 KITCITEN GARDEN.

first of May. The plants are to be thinned out so as
to be about three inches apart, and hoed frequently, a
little earth being occasionally drawn to the stems.
On dry, warm, and good soil the plaats will attain the
height of four or five feet. The pods are only used
when in a green state and filled with mucilage.

Tomato {Solarium Ly coper sioum). — The tomato, or
love-apple, has become an article of immense consump-
tion in the Southern and Middle States, and in the
neighborhood of Philadelphia is an object of extensive
field culture. Two species are in common cultivation,
the Red-fruited and the Yellow-fruited. Each of these
kinds is divided into several varieties. The reds, which
are regarded as the best, are distinguished into — 1. The
Common Large ; 2. Small; 3. Pear-shaped; 4. Cherry-
shaped. Of the yellow there are the Large Yellow, and
the Small or the Cherry-yellow. The cherry kinds of
both colors are generally used for pickling, whilst the
larger sorts are eaten in various ways, or added to
soups.

A rich, light mould is best adapted to the culture of
the tomato. Those intended for early use must be
started in hotbeds in the month of March. The seeds
should be sown thinly and covered lightly. They come
up quickly and grow rapidly, and require airing when
the weather is mild. When crowded in the first bed,
many of the plants may be transplanted into other beds
under glass, and placed three or four inches apart.
The planting out in the open air may take place about
the first of May, when the young plants may be put
about three feet apart in the most sheltered spots,
where they will have the full benefit of the sun. As

MOREL. 237

they grow up they must have the earth drawn about
their stems, and when a foot high, branches or other
means of support must be provided for the vines to run
or hang upon. As soon as they have set their fruit, the
earliest plants should have a few inches of their tops
pinched off, which will make them ripen their fruit
sooner.

Morel {Phallus Esculentis). — This is a species of
mushroom much esteemed by the French. It is distin-
guished from others of the tribe by its cap being hollow
within, adhering to the stem by its base, and covered
on the surface with a kind of irregular lattice-work. It
grows about three or four inches high in shady places
where the soil is moist, and should not be gathered
whilst wet with dew or rain. When dry, they may be
preserved for several months. It may be cultivated
after the manner pursued to obtain the ordinary mush-
room, a description of which may be found under the
head of the Forcing Garden.

Jn England, the following annual plants are occa-
sionally used in cookery, or as salads : Qhervil, Chse-
rophyllum sativum; Purslane^ Portulaca oleracea ;
Larnhh Lettuce, Fedia olitoria ; Indian Cress, Tropseo-
lum majus ; Marigold, Calendula officinalis ; Borage,
Borago officinalis. These may be sown in spring, or in
the beginning of summer, in any fresh light soils. In
general, a small quantity will suffice.

The, (7(3mmo?i Sorrel, Rumex acetosa ; the French
Sorrel, Rumex scutatus ; and the Horse-radish, Ar-
moracia rusticana, are perennials, and are increased
21

238 KITCHEN GARDEN.

by parting their roots. They thrive in any cool, shady
situation.

^OHKEL (Rumex acefosa). — This is the common sorrel
indigenous in England, growing everywhere, like its
close kindred sheep sorrel [Rumex acetocella), in the
United States. The garden or cultivated sorrel is
much used by the French, both in soups and boiled, and
eaten like spinach. They regard it as possessed of healthy
properties, adapted to some constitutions and ailments.

The Capsicum Or" Chilli/, Capsicum annuum, and the
Love-Apple, Solanum Lycopersicum, are tender an-
nuals from tropical climates. Both, in England, are
sown in hotbeds in spring, and after being transplanted
and nursed in separate pots, are planted out, the for-
mer in a w^arm border, and the latter against a wall.
In Scotland, the Capsicum will scarcely mature its fruit
without the aid of glass.

Dill, Anethum graveolens and Angelica, Angelica
archangelica, are umbelliferous biennials, which have
been for a long period, though not extensively, culti-
vated in English gardens. They are easily raised from
seed. With these may be associated the beautiful na-
tive perennial. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), the buds
and leaves of which are used in salads and sauces. It
may be propagated either by parting the roots, or by
seeds, which shoul-d be sown in autumn, soon' after they
are ripe. Finochio, or Florence Fennel, is an improved
variety, with more succulent stems ; but its cultivation
seems rather neglected- in. England. The seed of Fi-
nochio may be sown in the end of Mai'ch, on a warm
border, or better, perhaps, in a frame, in^ the manner
of celery. The young plants may be pricked out into

MEDICINAL PLANTS. 239

a sheltered quarter, at six inches apart in every direc-
tion. When the outer leaves covering the stems are
pulled off, the stems have a whitish appearance, giving
the aspect of blanching. If the weather prove dry,
watering is useful, the object being to render the stems
as thick and succulent as possible In Lombardy, these
stems are much used. Cut into thin slices, they form a
favorite garnish for ragouts of fowl or veal ; slightly
boiled or stewed, and cut small, a desirable ingredient
for giving flavor to gravy soups ; and, along with grated
parmesan, an excellent macaroni.

Burnet or Pimpernell is a hardy perennial plant,
the young- leaves of which are used in salads, and by the
French added to soups, to which it communicates a
warm and grateful taste. The seed may be sown in
early spring,, and a few plants will sufiice for a family.
Plants may be multiplied by parting the roots.

In every garden, there is a small department set
apart for the culture of Sweet Herbs and Medicinal
Plants. We need not here enter into details respecting
their uses or culture, but shall merely give classified
lists.

Shruhhy Plants increased by parting the roots, or
by cuttings : Thyme, Thymus vulgaris ; Sage, Salvia
officinalis; Winter Savory, Satureja montana ; Rose-
mary, Rosmarinus officinalis ; Lavender, Lavandula
Spica ; Hyssop, Hyssopus officinalis ; and Hue, Ruta
graveolens.

Perennial Herbaceous Plants, increased by parting
the roots: Spearmint, Mentha viridis; Peppermint
M. piperita ; Pennyroyal, M. pulegium ; Balm, Me-
lissa officinalis; Tarragon, Artemisia Dracunculus ;
Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare; Burnet, Poterium Sanguis-

240 FLOWER GARDEN.

orba ; Qostmary, Balsamita vulgaris ; QhamomileyKnth^-
mis nobilis.

Biennial or Annual Plants, increased by sowing the
seeds: (7Zar?/, Salvia Sclarea; Coriander, Coriandrum
sativum ; Caraivay, Carum Carui ; Sweet Marjoram,
Origanum majorana ; Summer Savory, Satureja hor-
tensis ; Sweet Basil, Ocimum basilicum ; and Bush
Basil, 0. minimum. These last, the basils, which are
natives of the East, and in much request for their
delicate flavor, are raised on hotbeds in spring, and
transplanted with balls into some warm situation. In
Scotland, they are mostly treated as tender annuals,
and are grown under glazed frames, in flower-pots.

It may here be noticed that the young green leaves
of Prunus Laurocerasus (under the name of laurel) may
properly enough be employed in garnishing ; but they
ought never to be used, as they too often are, for giv-
ing a nutty flavor, or for greening other articles ; the
hydrocyanic or prussic acid given out being very apt to
prove injurious, even in small quantities.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The cultivation of flowers, if not the most useful, is at
least one of the most pleasing, occupations of the hor-
ticulturist, and has generally shared largely in his at-
tention. It is probable that, at first, flowers, as objects
of curiosity, were confined to a few beds or borders in
the garden, as is still the case in many old places ; but
in the progress of the art, and the difi'usion of taste,
separate departments were allotted to them, under the
name of Flower Gardens. After some general remarks

FLOWER GARDEN. 241

on the style and situation, we shall treat of the compo-
nent parts of flower gardens, their various decorations,
and of floriculture.

The designing of flower gardens unquestionably be-
longs to the fine arts, involving in it the exercise of in-
vention, taste, and foresight. Its principles are more
vague and evanescent than those of any of the sister
arts. The hand of the designer is not here guided by
the imitation of Nature, for his work is wholly artificial
in its arrangements and appliances ; neither does utility
come in, as in architecture, to supply a form and frame-
work, which it is the artist's part to adorn. "As flower-
gardens," says Mr Loudon, the best authority on this
topic, "are objects of pleasure, the principle which must
serve as a guide in laying them out must be taste.
Now, in flower gardens, as in other objects, there ar^
difl'erent kinds of tastes ; these embodied are called
styles or characters; and the great art of the designer
is, having fixed on a style, to follow it out unmixed with
other styles, or with any deviation which would inter-
fere with the. kind of taste or impression which that
style is calculated to produce. Style, therefore, is the
leading principle in laying out flower gardens, as util-
ity is in laying out the culinary garden. As objects of
fancy and taste, the styles of flower gardens are vari-
ous. The modern style is a collection of irregular
groups and masses, placed about the house as a medium,
uniting it with the open lawn. The ancient geomatric
style, in place of irregular groups, employed synrmetri-
cal forms; in France, adding statues and fountains; in
Holland, cut trees and grassy slopes; and in Italy,
stone walls, walled- terraces, and flights of steps. In
some situations, these- characteristics of parterres may

21'^

242 FLOWER GARDEN.

with propriety be added to or used instead of the
modern sort, especially in flat situations, such as are
enclosed by high walls, in towns, or where the prin-
cipal building or object is in a style of architecture
which will not render these appendages incongruous.
There are other characters of gardens, such as the Chi-
nese, which are not widely different from the modern ;
the Indian, which consists chiefly of walks under shade,
in squares of grass ; the Turkish, which abounds in
shady retreats, boudoirs of roses and aromatic herbs;
and the Spanish, which is distinguished by trellis-work
and fountains; but these gardens are not generally
adapted to this climate, though, from contemplating
and selecting what is beautiful or suitable in each, a
style of decoration for the immediate vicinity of man-
sions might be composed preferable to anything now in
use." It may, however, be remarked, that the flower
garden, properly so called, has generally been too much
governed by the laws of landscape-gardening, and these
often ill understood and misapplied. In the days of
" clipped hedges and pleached alleys,'' the parterres and
flower-beds were of a description the most grotesque
and intricate imaginable. At a subsequent period,
when the natural and the picturesque became the ob-
jects of imitation in the park, there appeared the most
extravagant attempts at wildness in the garden. The
result has been equally unfortunate. It is not meant
that where there are merely a few patches of flowers,
by way of foreground to the lawn, they should not be
subordinated to the principles which regulate the more
distant and bolder scenery; but wherever there is a
flower garden of considerable magnitude, and in a sepa-
rate situation, we think it should be constructed on

FLOWER GAKDEN. 243

principles of its own. In such a spot, the great object
must be to exhibit to advantage the graceful forms and
glorious hues of flowering plants and shrubs; and it is
but seldom that mere elegancies in the forms of com-
partments, and other trickeries of human invention,
can bear any comparison with these natural beauties.
To express the peculiar nature of garden scenery, as
distinct from the picturesque in landscape, Mr. Loudon
invented the term gardenesque; and, whatever may
be thought of the term itself, it is very desirable that
the distinction should be preserved.

Two varieties of flower gardens have chifefly prevailed
in Britain; one, in which the ground is turf, and the
pattern, so to speak, is composed of a variety of figures
cut out of the turf, and planted with flowers and shrubs;
and another, where the flower-beds are separated by
gravel walks, without being interspersed with grass at
all. The choice of one or other of these varieties ought
greatly to depend upon the situation. When the flower
garden is to be seen from the windows, or any other
elevated point of view, from which the whole or the
greater part of the design may be perceived- at once,
perhaps the former should be preferred. Where the
surface is irregular, and the situation more remote,
and especially where the beauty of flowers is the chief
object of contemplation, the choice should probably
fall on the latter. This variety, too, seems preferable,
on the principle of contrast, where there are large lawns
in the outer grounds, in order that kept (or smoothly-
mown) grass may not be found everywhere.

Respecting the situation of the flower garden, no very
precise directions can be given, as it must be influenced
by the size of the domain, the nature of tlie lawns, and

244 FLOWER GARDEN.

the site of the mansion to which it is attached. Gene-
rally speaking, it should .not be at any great distance
from the house ; and in places where there is no dis-
tant view of importance, it may be constructed under
the windows. In retired scenes, it is delightful to step'
out of the drawing-room into compartments of flowers,
in the vicinity of a green-house or conservatory. On
the other hand, when the park is spacious, and the
prospects extensive and picturesque, it is perhaps better
that the flower garden should be at some distance, but
not more than a quarter of a mile, out of sight of the
house, and with an easy access in any sort of weather —
an arrangement which would give an agreeable termina-
tion to a short walk, a desirable matter in most cases;
for it has often been remarked that many parts of ex-
tensive grounds, remain unvisited because, they afi'ord
no remarkable object to attract attention.

The particular form of a flower garden is equally
beyond the inculcation of specific rules. Indeed, it may
be of any shape, and, except where the dimensions are
extremely limited, the boundarries should not be con-
tinuously visible. The taste of the proprietor .9r de-
signer, and the capabilities of the situation, must deter-
mine not only the external configuration but also the
arrangement of the interior parts. By judicious ma-
nagement, it may , be made to pass through shrubbery,
gradually assuming a more woodland character, and
groups of trees, into the park on the one hand, and into
the kitchen garden or orchard on the other. In most
cases, even where it is in the vicinity of the mansion
house, the flower garden should be encircled with some
sort of fence, in order to convey the idea of protection,
as well as to furnish security to the vegetable inmates

FLOWER GARDEN. 245

of the parterres, it -being impossible to carry on flori-
culture to any great extent in open places which are
accessible to hares and rabbits, or any other kind of in-
truders. In detached localities, the fences may be made
sufficiently strong to preclude the intrusion of every
species of vagrant; and these fences it is not difficult
to mask with shrubs and trees. A north wall of mo-
derate extent and moderate elevation is often desirable,
as affording space for ornamental climbers and half-
acclimatized exotics, and as forming a point d'appui for
the conservatory and other botanical structures. Such
a wall may be surmounted with urns and other archi-
tectural ornaments, and screened at some little distance
behind by trees. The other fences may be of wire-
work, generally called invisible, or of wooden rails, or
of holly hedges with rails.

Formerly the flower-beds were made either circular,
straight, or in curves, and were turned into knots,
scrolls, volutes, and other compartments; and this taste
prevailed, perhaps, in some measure from a desire on
the part of the contrivers, to compensate by their inge-
nuity for the paucity of the ornamental plants which
were then cultivated. Now that the riches of Flora
have poured into our gardens, a simpler taste has ob-
tained. Of the figures in fashion at present in the lawn
flower garden, perhaps the kidney-shape and its varie-
ties occur too frequently. It is needless, as well as
impossible, to specify the numerous configurations of
flower-pots, for they abound in kaleidoscopical variety.
Good taste will suggest that those only should be as-
sociated which harmonize well together; and it is better
to incur the hazard of an apparent monotony than to
excite wonder by incongruous coiiibinations. When

246 FLOWER GARDEN.

the figures are separated by turf, it is proper that the
little lawns or glades shoukl have a considerable de-
gree of breadth, for nothing has a worse effect than
overcrowding. A multitude of little figures should
also be avoided ; for they produce what Mr. Gilpin calls
spottiness, which, as he has correctly pointed out, is a
grievous deformity. In this sort of flower garden it is
desirable that a gravel-walk should skirt along at least
one side of the principal figures ; in our humid climate
the grass would otherwise render them inaccessible with
comfort during a great part of the year. In those
gardens from which turf is excluded, the compartments
should be of a larger and more massive character.

Narrow borders, bounded by parallel straight lines
and concentric curves, should be avoided. The centres
of the figures should be occupied with tall-growing
shrubs, and even with an occasional low evergreen tree,
such as a yew or a holly. The walks, arranged in long
concave curves, may communicate here and there with
one another. A dial, a few seats and arbors, with an
urn or two, or a vase, may be introduced with good
effect. It is to be regretted that so few good specimens
of this species of flower garden have hitherto been" exe-
cuted in Britain.

Amongst the accompaniments of the flower garden
may be mentioned the Rock-work. This consists of
variou^sly grouped masses of large stones, generally such
as are remarkable for being figured by water-wearing,
or for containing petrifactions or impressions; and into
the cavities between the stones, filled with earth, alpine
or trailing plants are inserted. These are numerous,
and may be endlessly diversified. Several species of
Helianthemum, Gentiana, Pentstemon, and Primula;

ROCK-WORK. 247

Campanula piimila, blue and white varieties, carpatica,
and nitida; Saponaria ocymoides, and Adonis vernalis
may be recommended.

Alpine or Rock Plants. — Soldanella alpina, Clusii,
and minima. Silene acaulis, maritima plena. - Semper-
vivum araclinoideum, grandiflorum, and even the com-
mon house-leek or fouet of Scotland, S. tectorum.
Dwarf crimson-flowered Raspberry, Rubus arcticus.
Dracocephalum grandiflorum. Potentilla tritentata.
Phlox subulata, setacea, virginiisa, and stolonifera*
Oxytropis uralensis. Lychnis alpina. Linaria alpina.
Liatris pilosa and spicata. Ilippocrepis comosa. Epi-
medium alpinum. Aubrietia deltoidea'. Bryas octo-
petala and Drummondii. Cardamine bellidifolia. Aster
alpinus. Anemone palmata, and Pulsatilla or pasque-
flower. No plants -produce a finer effect than the dif-
ferent varieties of the common rock-rose, Helianthemum
vulgare, double-flowered, pale, yellow, and dark orange-
colored, ^thionema membranaceum. Aletris fari-
nosa. Iris tenax. Geranium Wallichianum. Gentiana
septemfida. Siversia triflora. Astragalus alpinus."
Erinus alpinus and hispanicus. Ramonda pyrenaica.
Sedum ternatum. Alyssum olympicum. Antenaria
dioica and alpina. Dianthus alpinus and nitidus.

In appropriate situations, a small piece of water may
be introduced for the culture of aquatic plants.*
One of the walks is sometimes arched over with wire-

* For such a pond, it is sometime-s found difdcult to form a
thoroughly retentive bottom with clay, however well puddled.
In places near the sea, an efifective puddle may be obtained by
mixirig two parts of shore sand with one part of quicklime,
and forming a mortar of l^liem with sea-water, to be spread over
the bottom of the pond. This mode of pdddling was devised by
Mr. Robert Millie, and adopted with perfect success for a pond
at his curious littlo rock-work garden at Pathhead, in Fife.

248 FLOWER GARDEN.

work, and covered with ornamental climbing shrubs,
affording a delightful promenade in the glowing days
of summer. A separate compartment, generally of
some regular figure, is set apart for roses. A moist
or rather a shady border, with bog earth, is devoted
to that class of shrubs, commonly, but not very accu-
rately, designated "American plants." In extensive
places, a separate "American Garden" is often formed
in a locality which, if not damp, has at least the com-
mand of water, occupying generally some warm corner

of the park.

Some writers have advocated the formation of Winter
and Spring Gardens in separate localities ; but we are
not aware that their ideas have ever been embodied to
any great extent. It is proposed that in the winter
garden should be assembled all the hardy evergreen
shrubs and plants, together with the few flowers that
bloom during the brumal months. The situation, it is
recommended, should be well sheltered, and open only
to the warm rays of the sun, which are peculiarly grate-
ful in our cold season. However attractive this scheme
may be in theory, it seems doubtful whether it would
be very successful in execution. Mass.es of evergreens
have a sombre and monotonous effect, even in winter,
unless occasionally broken and varied by deciduous
trees. The contrast of their leafless neighbors relieves
the intenseness of their gloom, and sets off their bril-
liancy. Though a winter garden (the very naro.e of
which is chilling) is perhaps not very desirable by it-
self, the object sought to be attained should not be lost
sight of in the formation of the park and the flower
garden. We can easily suppose a particular section of
the latter to contain a predominance of evergreens, and

SOIL. 249

to possess the principal characters of a Winter Garden,
without the formality of its name and purpose. In the
endless variety of situations, it is not difficult to ima-
gine a sloping bank, for instance, facing the sun, with
a long walk skirting its base, the lower side of which
might be adorned with a border or narrow parterre
planted with arbutus and periwinkle, whilst the slope
is covered with the higher evergreens, and the summit
of -the acclivity is crowned with groups of deciduous
trees, interrupted by a few straggling firs, through which
the wind, unfelt below, might sigh its melancholy music.
Again, a site for the Spring Garden, which need not
be of very great extent, may be found in the vicinity of
the green-house or conservatory, with which it is natu-
rally allied.

Soil. — A variety of soils is required in the flower
garden, to -sjiit the very different kinds of plants that
fall to be cultiva;ted. To florists' flowers particular
compounds are assigned, and these shall be mentioned
when treating of the flowers themselves. American
plants require a peaty earth, varying from boggy peat
to almost pure sand. Alluvial peat, that is, boggy
earth which has been washed away and incorporated
with white sand, is to be preferred : peat, cut from its
natural bed and only partially decomposed, is of no
value at all, or rather is positively prejudicial to plants.
In collecting soil from the surface of a muir, it is proper
to take no more than the upper turf or sod, with the
peat adhering to it, and only from the driest parts of
the muir, where particles of white sand abound, and
where, besides the common heath, fescue-grasses occur.
Where this kind of muir-soil cannot be procured, a good
substitute is found in vegetable mould, that is, decayed
99

250 FLOWER GARDEN.

leaves swept from lawns -or woods, and allowed to lie in
heaps- for a few years. For the general purpose of the
flower garden, a light loamy soil is advantageous ; and,
where the natural covering is thin, or requires making
up, recourse should be had to the surface-earth of old
pastures, which, especially when incumbent on trap-
rocks, is found to be excellent. It is expedient to have
a large mass of this material always in the compost yard.
The turf and the surface-soil adhering to it should be
laid up in a rough state, in which way it is continually
ameliorating, by the decomposition of the vegetable mat-
ters, and the action of the air.

Plants requiring a Peaty Soil. — Rhododendron Cau-
casicum, ferrugineum, chamsecistus, Lapponicum, hirsu-
tum, carapanulatura, maximum, dahuricum, atrovirens,
and several beautiful hybrids, such as the alto-clerense
and Russellianum, raised at Highclerc. Kalmia latifo-
lia, glauca, angustifolia, nitida. Erica australis, arbo-
rea, medi-terranea, ramulosa, scoparia, vagans, ciliaris.
Ledum palustre and latifolium. Vaceinium myrtillus,
the bilberry, and V. uliginosum, the blaeberry of this
country, and several North American species. Menziesia
coerulea, Rhodora canadensis ; also numerous Azaleas,
particularly the Ghent varieties.

Garden Walks. — During the prevalence of the Dutch
taste, grass walks w^ere. common, in our gardens; but,
in consequence of the inconvenience arising from their
frequent wetness in our humid climate, they have in a
great measure been discarded. Their disuse is perhaps
to be regretted, as in some situations, particularly be-
hind lengthened screens of trees, or in gardens from

GARI>t:N WALKS. 251

which grass has be-en in a great measure excluded, they
form rather an agreeable variety. It is justly observed
by Sir William Temple that " two things peculiar to
us, and which contribute much to the beauty and ele-
gance of our gardens, are the gravel of our walks, and
the fineness and almost perpetual greenness of our turf;"
and therefore no trouble should be spared in securing
excellence in these respects. In old times, grass walks
were formed with much care. After the space which
they were to ©ccupy had been digged and leveled that
it might subside' equably, a thin layer of sand or poor
earth was laid upon the surface, and over this a similar
layer of good soil. This arrangement was to prevent
excessive luxuriance in the grass. In selecting the seed,
all annual, wiry, and course sorts of grass should be
avoided. Perhaps a mixture of Roughish Meadow-grass
(Poa trivialis), Sheep's'Fescue-grass (Festuca duriuscula
and Festuca ovina), and Crested Dogstail grass (Cyno-
surus cristatus), is about the best that could be selected.
Poa nemoralis is well adapted for shaded situations.
The seeds of these species, accurately selected, are now
sold in the principal seed-shops. White clover, although
ornamental, should scarcely be admitted, as it tends to
keep the grass in a damp state.

Gravel walks, in this department, are formed pre-
cisely in the same manner as those in the kitchen gar-
den. It may, however, be remarked, that numerous
gravel walks, particularly when narrow, have a puny
effect. All the principal lines should be broad enough
to allow at least three persons to walk abreast ; the
others may be narrow. Much of the neatness of walks
depends upon the material of which they are made.
Gravel from an inland pit is to be preferred, though

252 FLOWER GAPvDEN.

occasienally very excellent varieties are found upon the
sea-sliore. The gravel of Kensington and Blackheath
has attained considerable celebrity ; and is frequently
employed in remote parts of the kingdom, the expense
being lessened by its being conveyed to different sea-
ports as ballast of ships. In summer, a gravel walk
requires hoeing and raking from time to time, to clear
it from weeds and tufts of grass. After this operation,
or even after a simple sweeping, it is rolled down with
a hand-roller ; and this is repeated as often as the sur-
face is ruffled. Nothing contributes more to the ele-
gance and convenience of garden walks than frequent
rolling.

Edgings. — Walks are generally separated from the
borders and parterres by some kind of dense bushy
plant planted closely in line. By far the best edging
is afforded by the' Dwarf Dutch JBox (Buxus sempervi-
rens var.). It is extremely neat, and, when annually
clipped, will remain in good order for many years. It
may be planted at any season, except when in full growth
or in midwinter. Excellent edgings are also formed by
Sea Pink (Statice armeria) and Double Daisy (Bellis
perennis). Dwarf Gentian- (Gentiana acaulis), London
Pride (Saxifraga umbrosa), and the pretty native saxi-
frage, S. hypnoidcs, are likewise used. Indeed, any
low-growing herbaceous plant, susceptible of minute
division, is fitted for an edging. Among the great
variety occasionally employ? ed for this purpose may be
mentioned the Pansy (Viola tricolor),, the Dwarf Bell-
flower (Campanula pumila), the Cowslip, Polyanthus,
Auricula, Ilepatica, Veronica fruticulosa, Calluna vul-
garis fl. pleno, and Erica carnea. Edgings may also
be formed of spars of wood, narrow pieces of sandstone

SHRUBS. 253

flag, or even of slight bars of cast-iron. In slirubberies
and large flower-plots, verges of grass-turf, about a foot
in breadth, make a very handsome border to walks.
These should not be allowed to rise high above the
gravel : an inch and a half may be assigned as the limit
they should not exceed. The grass is kept short by re-
peated mowings, and the edges are defined by clipping
with shears, or cutting with a paring-iron.

Shrubs. — Much of the beauty of the pleasure garden
depends upon the proper selection and disposition of
ornamental trees and shrubs; and it is to be regretted
that this department of the art has often been greatly
neglected. In many English gardens we still find only
a few evergreens, and a parcel of rugged deciduous
species, introduced probably before the age of Miller.
No wonder, therefore, that we sametimes hear complaints
of the insipid appearance of the shrubbery. Neverthe-
less, shrubs are highly elegant in themselves, and they
afford a most efficient means of diversifying garden
scenery.' Of the many beautiful species now to be had
in Britain, and aff^ording the materials of exquisite de-
coration, we can mention only a few. For extensive
lists and for much general information, we may once
more refer to the work of the late Mr. Loudon, a new
and improved edition of which has been published by
his talented widow, well known in the literary world
for her varied writings, and especially for her popular
treatises on Botany and Floriculture.

Of Evergreens, besides the Common Laurel (Prunus
Laurocerasus) and the Portugal Laurel (P. Lusitanica.)^
we have noticed the American Arborvit.03 (Thuja occi-
dentalis), as adapted to large masses of shrubs; and the
Chinese Arborvitfc (T. orientals), whose size and mode

22*

254 FLOWER GARDEN.

of growth fit it for smaller compartments. The differ-
ent varieties of Rhamnus Alaternus, and the species of
Philljrea and Juniperus, have long and deservedly been
favorite evergreens. The Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis),
in favorable situations, rises into a handsome shrub or
low tree, and may convey to the student of the classics
an idea of the Delphic laurel. The Strawberry tree
(Arbutus Unedo), a native of Ireland as well as of the
south of Europe, will always find a place as one of the
most elegant of plants, equally beautiful as regards
foliage, flower, and fruit : nor should its compatriot,
the Irish Yew, ascending like the pillared cypress, be
forgotten. The Cypress itself, though rather a denizen
of the park, may be sparingly introduced. The Lau-
rustinus (Viburnum Tinus), with blossoms approach-
ing the snow in whiteness, enlivens the winter season,
wJien little 'else is in .flower in the shrubbery. The
Swedish and Irish Junipers deserve. a place. Diff'erent
species of Daphne will not be_ forgotten ; it may be
sufficient to enumerate pontics, collina, Cneorum, and
hybrida. Several species of Berberis deserve places;
in particular, B. aquifolia, glumacea, dulcis, and re-
pens, which are not only elegant but very ha'rdy. For
a long time, the seasons recommended for the planting
of evergreens were either the spring or the autumn ;
but experience (as fully shown by Mr. William M'Nab
in his Treatise on the subject) has proved that the tvin-
ter is the safest and most appropiate period of the year.
The fragrant jasmine (Jasminum ofiQcinale), ought not
to be forgotten. It is admirably adapted for covering
a wall or a trellis, and if care be taken not to prune
away too many of the young shoots, it will afford its
blossoms abundantly. It may also,' by cutting in, be

SIIRUBF. -255

trained up as a small standard shrub, or it may be
trimmed to a single stem and head, potted, and placed
in the green-house. As extremely low evergreens, we
may mention Gualtheria procumbens- and Shallon,
Polygala Chamaebuxus, and Astragalus Tragacantha ;
but these would probably be better placed among what
are popularly called American plants. Of the more
tender evergreens, we should name the Andrachne
(Arbutus Andrachne), a beautiful shrub, but liable to
be injured by severe frosts ; and the pittosporum
Tobira of Japan, with glossy foliage and fragrant
flowers. The Broad-leaved Myrtle (Myrtus Romana),
in warm places, and with the aid of a covering in the
depth of winter, may be made to clothe the wall with
its brilliant verdure for eight months- in the year, and
with its white flowers for some weeks in the end of
summer. Treated in the same way, the noble Magnolia
grandiflora (particularly the Exmouth variety) will
yield its large and fragrant blossoms. Aucuba Japonica
and Buxus Balearica are handsome shrubs, of a some-
what stronger constitution ; the former is very orna-
mental in dull shady places, where no other shrub will
grow, and it withstands severe frost, which destroys
laurustinus. The beautiful tribes of Cistus and Heli-
anthemum, some- of which are quite hardy, are well
adapted for adorning sloping banks.

Amongst the shrubs that require a peaty soil, or at
least a damp and shady situation, the splendid genus
Rhododendron holds the principal place.. Of the- larger
species may be mentioned R. Ponticum, Catawbiense,
and Maximum, with their numerous hybrid- varieties.
In early spring, R. Dauricura and atrovirens expand
their blossoms among the first of flowering shrubs.

256 FLOWER GARDEN.

Nor should we overlook punctatiim, ferrngineum, and
Chamsecistus, of humbler growth, but not inferior in
; beaut J. AYith these the closely cognate genus of Aza-
lea, with its multudinous species and varieties, disputes
the palm of elegance. The pale and drooping Andro-
medas are scarcely of inferior interest. The hardy
Heaths, particularly Erica carnea, tetralix, and stricta,
Men'ziezia polifolia and coerulea, and the Canadian Rho-
dora, combine to bring up the rear of^this department
of Flora's train.

The deciduous flowering shrubs are too much neg-
lected in many gardens. They are seldom well ma-
naged, either in point of arrangement or of pruning, for
the production of picturesque effect. Very often they
are huddled together promiscuously, and grow up into
the shape of huge sheaves of rushes. With judicious
management, there are no finer objects in the vegetable
kingdom than the common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), or
the hybrid Varin (S. Rathomngensis), or even the old
Gueldres-Rose (Viburnum Opulus), with '' her silver
globes, light. as. the foamy surf.'' Another species, the
Crimped-leaved Gucldres-Rose (V. plicatum), produces
flowers more abundantly, and is therefore still more
ornamental. Nor ought the Mock-orange (Philadel-
phus coronarius) to be neglected ; for, while the flowers
are ornamental, their or-ange perfume is powerful.

It would lead us into disproportioned detail to specify
a tithe of those showy shrubs which should be dear to
every floriculturist. Suffice it to name Ribes sangui-
neum (of which a double-flowered variety and also a
white variety have lately appeared), Daphne mezereum,
Spartium of many species, Cystisus, Amygdalus, and
Pyrus. The Ribes speciosiim, or Fuchsia-flowered

SHRUBS. 257

gooseberry, seems to require the protection of a wall,
but deserves it. The fine suffruticose plant Paeonia
Moutan requires a sheltered position in the shrubbery,
where, in May and June, its flowers excel all others in
magnificence. Two species of Garrya, from the higher
parts of Mexico, have of late been added to our choice
evergreen shrubs. G. elliptica flowers in winter, if the
season be open, and succeeds well if trained against a
south wall ; its male catkins are long, and hang down
very gracefully, so that the plant forms a fine accom-
paniment to the Laurustinus. G. laurifolia is equally
hardy, and forms a handsome shrub. From the list
published by Mrs. Loudon, any one might form such
a collection as, when properly arranged, would pro-
duce all the variety and beauty expected from the
shrubbery.

There are many fine climbing shrubs, such as the spe-
cies of Clematis, particularly grandiflora and Sieboldtii,
and of Lonicera or honeysuckle ; the Passiflora coeru-
lea, with its curious and beautiful flowers ; and Aristo-
lochia Sipho, remarkable for the size and elegance of
its foliage. Others, though not precisely of this class,
are much beholden to the shelter of a wall, such as
the Cercis siliquastrum or Judas-tree, and Edwardsia
tetraptera and microphylla. Among those of recent
introduction into England may be noticed Leycesteria
formosa, Glycine Sinensis, Eccremocarpus scaber, and
Sollya heterophylla. ^ Some herbaceous, creepers suc-
ceed admirably when trained against a wall in the open
garden ; particularly Maurandia s^mperflorens and Bar-
clayana, and Lopliospermum scandens and erubescens.
The numerous species or varieties of Fuchsia, when
planted against the wall, or even in the open ground,

258 FLOWER GARDEN.

and protected with an occasional covering in winter,
convej to us a better idea of the riches of Chilian vege-
tation than when they are confined to the shelves of
the green-house. Among the more ornamental hardy
varieties may be mentioned F. discolor and F. Riccar-
tonia ; and particularly F. corymbiflora, perhaps the
finest of all. Many roses are also well adapted for
walls, such as the varieties of Noisette, Boursault, and
the different species from China.

A separate compartment, called the Rosary, is ge-
nerally devoted to-the cultivation of roses. It is often
of an, ovaL form, with concentric beds,, and. narrow
intervening walks of grass or gravel,, but it may assume
any configuration which is suited to display this favor-
ite plant. Of the thousand varieties of roses which
exist in the English nurseries, we pretend not to give
any selection. It may^ however, be remarked, that in
planting the Rosary, care should be taken to classify
the sorts according to the sizes and affinities, otherwise
the effect will be much impaired. The sorts are gene-
rally classed as Damasks, Perpetuals, French Roses,
Chinese Roses, Scotch, Celestials, and Moss Roses. A
variety of double-flowering Sweet Briers have been re-
cently added to their number, uniting the beauty of
the double rose and the fragrance of the brier. The
climbing sorts niay be. advantageously introduced, being
trained to pillar-like trellises. In the Royal Botanic
Garden of Edinburgh they are trained to living posts,
consisting of straight poplars, closely pollarded, so as
to show only a few leaves at top. The Banksian Rose
is one of the finest climbers, but has this peculiarity,
that the flowers are produced only on shoots of one
year's growth ; the pruning must therefore take place

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 259

at midsummer, so as to allow time for the develop-
ment of new shoots; if done in the autumn there can
be no roses next season. In Scotland it is suited only
for the conservatory. When the^ rosary is extensive, it
is judicious to intersperse some of the most showy hol-
lyhocks ; for thus the beauty of the quarter is main-
tained in the later months of autumn, when the roses
are chiefly past. Of late years-, q[uantities of standard
roses have been imported from the Continent. These
are the finer sorts, budded on tall stalks of the wild
species, such as R. villosa and canina. They are well
adapted to stand singly on the little lawns in flower-
gardens, or to break the uniformity of low flower bor-
ders.

All shrubs nearly may be propagated by layers, some
by budding or grafting, many by separating the roots.
In planting out, shrubs may be arranged either singly
or in masses; the latter method is perhaps the most
efficient in the production of efl'ect, but it should not be
very servilely adhered to, as it is apt to produce mono-
tony. Some kinds should never appear in masses;
the white Portugal broom, for instance, when so ar-
ranged, gives a limy tint to a garden. Perhaps it is
better that groups should contain a predominance of
one shrub, set off by a few others of a contrasting
figure or color, than that they should be entirely homo-

IIERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Common perennial flowers, whether^ strictly herba-
ceous or bulbous, aff"ord the principal materials for floral
decoration. Eotany supplies, as it were, the colors

260 FLOWER GARDEX.

for the picture, and' gardening grinds and prepares them
for use. The painting is continually varying, aftd new
shades are arriving and departing in succession. The
least cansideration of the subject will suggest the rule,
that in planting flowers they should be arranged ac-
cording, to their stature, otherwise many of ' the most
beautiful would be lost among their taller compeers.
The lowest plants should therefore stand next the mar-
gin of the border or parterre, and they should increase
in height as they go back. To produce a full show, a
profusion, just now amounting to crowding, is requisite.
The flower-plots should present a regular bank of
foliage and blossom, rising gradually from the front;
but as this might convey an idea of too great precision,
a few staring plants, on the same principle as those
employed in green-houses, should be thinly scattered
over the surface. These may be shrubs, or any tall
showy plants, such as Becconia cardata, Papaver brac-
teatum, Gladiolus Byzantinus, or Lilium candidum.

Tall 2^erenniah. — Lilium giganteum, superbum, chal-
cedonicum. Asphodelus ramosus, or silver-rtfd. Phlox
pyramidalis. Monarda didyma, kalmiana, ciliata.
Veronica sibirca, virginica. Campanula pyramidalis.
Lychnis chalcedonica, fl. pi. or double scarlet lychnis;
also, single white and double white. Fritillaria imperi-
alis, or Crown imperial. Rudbeckia purpurea. Cle-
matis integrjfolia. Chelone barbata, scarlet, and also
wdiite, with Chelone mexicana, and C. antwerpiensis.
Delphinium grandiflorum, fl. pi. or double larkspur.
Aconitum Anthora, lycoctonura, Chinense. Astelbe
rivukris. Aceta racemosa. Asclepias incarnata.
Aconitum versicolor. Delphinium amythestinum. Sil-
phium perfoliatum and conjunctum.

Plants to he kept under glass during Winter^ and

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 261

plantedout in May. — Lychnis (Agrostemma) Bungeana,
PelargoHium inquinans, cucuUatum, and many hybrid
varieties of great beauty. Verbena varieties. Alonosa
elegans. Phlox Drummondii and bicolor. Lobelia for-
mosa, propinqua. Nierembergia intermedia. Lantana
Selloviana, Gardoquia multiflora. Salvia patens.
Mahva Crowena. Cineraria, different species. Vero-
nica speciosa. Isotoma axillaris. Anagallis Monelli,
grandiflora ccerulea, Phillipsii. Trachelium coeruleum.
Lobelia ignea, Milleri, splendens violacea. Pentstemon
coboea, Murrayanus. Gardoquia betonicoides. Agathe
coelestis. Ageratum coslestinum. Calceolaria, Prince
Albert and floribunda. Petunia, Prince Alfred-Ernest,
Dnchess of Kent, and Simpsonii.

The management of color is more difficult. ^ When
the long duration of the flowering season is considered,
it will be obvious that it is impossible to keep up the
show of a single border or plot for six months together,
and consequently, that much of the labor employed
in mixing colors is misspent, since plants, as they are
commonly arranged, come dropping into flower one
after another: and even where a certain number are
in bloom at the same time, they necessarily stand apart,
and so the eff'ects of contrast, which can be perceived
only among adjacent objects, are entirely lost. To
obviate this defect,- it has been recommended that
ornamental plants should be formed into four or five
separate suites of flowering, to be distributed over the
garden. Not to mention the more vernal flower, the
first might contain the flora of May; the second that of
June; the third that of July; and the fourth the tribes
of August and the following months. These plants
should be kept in separate compartments, arranged

262 FLOWER GARDEN.

either singly or in masses; but the compartments them-
selves should be so intermingled as that no particular
class should be entirely absent from any one quarter of
the garden. The May parterres should, however, chiefly
occur in the vicinity of the green-house or conservatory,
or, when these are absent, in a warm sunny situation.
The flowerings of June and July, as being highly showy,
should occupy the most conspicuous parts of the garden.
The autumnal perennials, not being so imposing, may
retire into the more secluded situations, as they are sup-
planted by the superior brilliancy of the annuals, which
then fill the vacated beds of florists' flowers, or are
scattered over the faded clumps of May and June.

Before attempting to plant, the floriculturist would
do well to construct tables or lists of flowers, specifying
tbeir respective times of flow^ering, their colors, and
altitudes. These tables, when skillfully used, would
prevent mistakes, produce a greater facility of execu-
tion, and put the colors nearly as much under control
as they are on the painter's pallet. To diversify pro-
perly and mingle well together the reds, whites, purples,
yellows, and blues, with all their intervening shades,
requires considerable taste and powers of conception;
but if success is not attained in the first attempt, inac-
curacies should be noted, and rectified at the proper time
next season. Certain series of colors have been given,
but these it is needless to mention, as it is not very ma-
terial whether the first flower in a row be red or white.
The principal object is to preserve an agreeable con-
trast; and as at particular seasons a monotony of tint
prevails, it is useful at such times to be in possession of
some strong glaring colors. White, for instance,
should be much employed in July, to break the duller

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 263

blues and purples which then preponderate. The orange
lily, too, is very effective at that season. On the other
hand, yellows are superabundant in autumn, and there-
fore i-^ds and blues should then be sought for.

Besides mere vividness of color and elegance of form,
there are other qualities which render plants desirable
in the flower garden. Whoever has visited a botanic
garden, must have been sensible of an interest excited
by tlie curious structure of some plants, or by their
rarity. Even quaintness of form is deserving of atten-
tion; and on this principle. Allium fistulosum (the com-
mon Welsh onion) may be allowed to figure in a flower
border. At the same time, it must be admitted that
such expedients should be employed with reserve. No
handsome plant should be rejected because it is common,
nor any ill-favored one introduced merely because it is
scarce. The flower-gardener should have a small nur-
sery frame for the propagation of the finer plants, so
as to have at hand a stock, to be transferred into the
borders as often as required.

Numerous specimens of such showy plants as Verbena
Brillii, atro-sanguinea, and Mont Blanc, Phlox Drum-
mondii, with Scarlet Geraniums, Petunias, Salvias, and
Fuchsias, may easily be kept oyer winter, in a green-
house or vinery, in the very small pots called " thumbs,"
ready to be plunged in the open borders in May ; where
they uniformly bloom with much greater vigor and
brilliancy than under glass.

We shall here enumerate merely the names of a few
of the most ornamental flowers, adapted to the British
flower garden.*

* It must be borne in mind by the American floricultiirist
that the times and seasons here referred to are those of Ensland,

264 FLOWER GARDEN.

Vernal Herbaceous Plants. — Ilelleborus niger, livi-
dus ; Eraiitbus hyemivlis ; Hepatica triloba, var. ; Pri-
mula vulgaris var., veris, elatior, raarginata, beWetica,
nivalis, viscosa, integrifolia, cortusoides ; Cortusa Ma-
tbioli ; Soldanella alpina, Clusii ; Viola odorata double-
flowered, tricolor, biflora, altaica ; Dodecatheon Meadia
vars. ; Orobus vernus ; Adonis vernalis ; Orapbalodes
verna ; Corydalis lutea, longiflora; Sanguinaria cana-
densis ; Iris pumila ; Anemone apennina, Halleri, Pulsa-
tilla : Sisjrincbium grandiflorum..

Vernal Plants. — Gentiana verna, acaulis. Saxifraga
oppositifolia. Genista Scorpius. Hepatica Americana.
Dondia eplpactus. Orobus vernus, fl. pi. Arabis gran-
diflora. Heterotropa asaroides. Nordmannia cordi-
folia. Aubretia deltoidea.

Vernal Bulbous Plants. — Galantbus nivalis ; Leu-
coium vernum ; Crocus, various species ; Cyclamen coum,
vernjam ; Corydalis bulbosa ; Erythroniura Dens canis ;
Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus, moschatus, odorus, Jon-
quilla, &c. ; Fritillaria imperalis, meleagris, persica;
Gagea lutea; Tulipa sylvestris ; Iris persica; Trillium
grandiflorum, &c., Scilla verna, praecox, bifolia, sibirica.
Smilacina umbellata ; Galanthus plicatus ; Sisyrinchium
grandiflorum ; Leontice altaica ; Trichonema bulboco-
dium ; Ery tbronium longifolium ; Symplocarpus foetidus,
or skunk-flower ; Ajax exigua, nana major and minor;
Merendera caucasica; Scilla amcena ; Saxifraga granu-
lata, fl. pi. Claytonia virginica.

Herbaceous Plants floivering in May. — Anemone
narcissiflora, sylvestris, dicbotoma ; Primula farinosa,

and will be found not precisely to correspond with the precise
times of planting in any one part of the United States.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 265

scotica ; Convallaria majalis ; Uvularia grandiflora,
perfoliata : Phlox divaricata, subulata, setacea, &c. ;-
Aspliodelus luteus, ramosus ; Draba, Aizoides ; Viola
cornuta, obliqua ; Gentiana verna, acaulis ; Lupinus
polyphyllus ; Gaillardia bicolor ; Iris florentina, cristata,
&c. — Bulbs : Leiicoium gestivum, Scilla non-scripta, itali-
ca, &c. Hjacinthus monstrosus; Muscari moschatum,
botyroides, eomosum; Narcissus Bulbocodium, poeticus.
Tiarella cordifolia ; Mitella diphjlla ; Arenaria verna,
and a variety with double flowers : Verbascum Myconi.
Asperula odorata, the sweet woodroof of our woods.
Houstonia coerulea ; Pulmonaria azurea, officinalis.
Trollius asiaticus ; Symphytum asperrimum ; Onosma
echioides ; Aretia alpina ; Androsace maxima ; Soldan-
ella montana ; Linnaea borealis ; Waldstenia geoides.
Aquilegia canadensis and venusta ; Dodecatheon Media
and integrifolia ; Epimedium Muscbianum and violaceum .
Spirsea venusta.

Bulbous. — Ornithogalum umbellatum, pyrenaicum,
narbonense, nutans ; Leucojum vernum ; Narcissus
dubius, Tacetta ; Puschkinia scilloides ; Scilla esculen-
ta, the qua^iash of the American Indians ; S. japonica,
campanukta, and peruviana.

June. — ■Herbaceous Plants : P^gonia officinalis^ albi-
flora, corallina, Humii, &c. ; Dianthus, species ; Gera-
nium saugnnieum, Lancastriense,Wallichianumj striatum,
&;c. ; Monarda didyma, Ka^miana ; Papaver bracteatum ;
Saxifraga, species ; Spiraea, species ; Mimulus Har-
risonii, atro-roseus, moschatus ; Trollius Araericanus,
europiBus; Lysimachia verticillata ; Veronica latifolia,
&c. ; Geum coccineum ; Aconitum napellus, &c. ; Potentilla
nepalonsis, &c. — Bulbs : Allium Moly, Gladiolus psitta-
cinus, communis; Lilium Pomponium, bulbifcrum, auran-

266 FLOWER GARDEN.

tiacum, monadelphum, penduliflorum, concolor, &c.; Iris
Xiphium, Xipliioide^ ; Myosotis alpestris ; Anchusa
italica ; Pentstemon Richardsonii ; Actsea spicata ;
Koniga maritima ; Alyssum saxatile ; Smilacina stellata ;
Polemonium cceruleum ; Pneonia, different species ;
Mirabillis jalapa ; Dianthus grandifloriis and splendid-
issimus ; Delphinium Guthrianum ; Phlox bicolor ;
Aconitum bicolor ; .Aconitum ovatum ; Potentilla May-
ana, atro-sanguinea, Hopwoodiana, and Thomasii ; Ono-
nis rotundifolia ; Lychnis flos-cuculi, fl. alba pi. Aquil-
egia glauca, fragrans, and Brownii.

Bulbous and tuberous.^CyQ.cki2i liliastrum ; Phalan-
gium liliago; Ornithogalum nutans Eremurus specta-
bilis; Uvularia sessilifolia, lanceolata; Arum triphyllum;
Arum Dracunculus and Virginianum ; Asphodilus albus
and creticus; Convallaria multiflora; O^xalis Bonariensis,
alba, and rubra; Scilla pratensis; Funkia Sieboldtii,
lanceolata marginata, undulata variegata.

JuIt/. — Ilei'haceous PIcmts : Phlox intermedia, and
many other species of that fine genus; Pentstemon,
numerous species ; (Enothera, various species ; Cam-
panula persicifolia, &c.; Morinia longiflora ; Delphinum
Barlowii ; Asclepias amoena, syriaca ; Iris fulva, pallida,
variegata ; Gentiana lutea,. asclepiadea, cruciata, sep-
temfida, &c. ; Chelone obliqua, barbata, hy oni. ^- Bulbs:
Lilium martagon, canadense, tigrinum, superbum, &c. ;
Tigridiapavonia, Commelinacoelestis, Cyclamen hederse-
folium ; Phlox omniflora, P. Van Ilouttii, Princess Marian,
new striped varieties ; Pentstemon gentianoides, and'
var. coccinea, alba, and new blue. Calceolaria integ-
rifolia, rugosa, rubra, and many pretty hybrids between
the Chili species. Verbena, irAzf^s-, Ada, candidissima,
Avalanche, and Queen of Whites ; Scarlets, Bakerii,

HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 267

Boule de feu, Chandlerii, and Eftglefieklil ; Purples^
Charlwoodii, Neillii, Emma, and Hudsonii ; Crimsons,
Defiance, Emperor, Louis Phillippe, and Stewartii ;
Salmon, Beautd Supreme, Aurora, Sunbeam, and ele-
gantissima ; Rose, Coquett, excelsa, modesta, and Queen
of England. Lupinus grandifolius ;AlstrcEmeria aurea;
Tradescantia virginica, or blue spiderwort, and also
varieties with white and with purple flowers. Antirrhi-
num caryophilloides ; Boule de feu, quadricolor cocci-
nea, Youngii, picta, superba, and tubiflora; Petunia,
Kentish Beauty, Prince Alfred-Ernest, Rising Sun,
Hebe, and Attraction ; Anemone vitifolia ; Gypsophila
altissima; Geum coccineum; Cypella Herbertii; Stachys
inodora, speciosa ; Lobelia pyramidalis.

Autumnal Herbaceous Plants : Phlox decussata, py-
ramidalis, tardiflora, bicolor, &c. ; Lobelia cardinalis,
fulgens, sple.ndens, &c. \ Aster &ibiricus, amellus, pul-
cher, &c. ; Solidagp, several species ; Acoriitura japoni-
cum, volubile, variegatum ; Gentiana ; Saponaria. —
Bulbs : Colchicum autumnale ; Crocus nudiflorus, sero-
tinus ; Tritoma, pallida, media ; Lavatera arborea ;
Eupatorium cannabinum ; Stevia salicifolia ; Saponaria
officinalis, with double flowers ; Nepeta longiflora ;
Statice latifolia ; Salvia confertiflora; Dahlias of many
sorts ; Astelbe rivularis ; Phlox elegans ; Campanula
lactiflora ; Gladiolus Gandavensis ; Achillea Ptarmica,
fl. plen ; Aster diffusus, floribundus, foliosus, panicula-
tus, and spectabilis ; Chelone obliqua ; Coreopsis ver-
tieillata; Eupatorium purpureum; Helianthus giganteus
and macrophyllus ; Liatris, scariosa, spicata, macros-
tachya, and pyenostachya ; Serratula coronata 'and cen-
tauroides.

It is- with regret that we thus confine ourselves to a

268 FLOWER GARDEN.

dry list of border flowers ; but to classify and charac-
terize them with anything like justice would require
many pages. Within the last few years great acces-
sions of desirable plants have been made to our stores.
The Lupines and Pentstemons from Columbia River,
the Verbenas and Calceolarias from South America,
and the Potentillas and Geraniums from Nepal, have
in a great measure changed the face of -our flower gar-
dens. While our riches have multiplied, the difiiculty,
as well as the necessity, of making a selection has also
increased.

Most herbaceous perennial plants are propagated by
parting the roots, or by cuttings ; but some more con-
veniently by the sowing of seed.

Biennial Plants. — Plants wl^ose existence is limited
to two years, in the latter of which they flower and then
decay, are called biennials. Many of them possess con-
siderable beauty ; and by their easy propagation, an<l
rapid growth, they aff*ord a ready means of decorating
borders. The following may be considered most, worthy
of notice; Agrostemma coronaria; Antirrhinum majus;
Hedysarura coronarium ; Lunaria biennis ; Campanula
media: (Enothera. sinuata, biennis ; Verbascum for-
mosumj Althsea grandiflora, Scabiosa atro-purpurea,
Mathiola simplicicaulis. Digitalis purpurea, var. mon-
strosa or campanulata. Erysimum .Perowfskianum.
(Enothera Drummondii ; Iberis Tenoriana ; Althoea
grandiflora; Linaria tristis ; Mathiola incana; Ch^i-
ranthus fruticulosus, with double flowers ; Lunaria bien-
nis, or moonwort, the large silvery ^ilicles of which are
more ornamental than its flowers ; -Frasera carolinen-
sis ; Ammobium alatum ; Anchusa italica ; Erytholsena
conspicua ; French Honeysuckle. When a very desir-

ANNUAL PLANTS. 269

able variety of any plant is procured, such as the striped
Antirrhinum magus, or doubl-e varieties of Wall-flower,
Sweet William, or Mule Pinks, attention should be paid
to the striking of cuttings during the summer, as the
only sure means of continuance.

Biennials are sown in beds in the end of spring, and
are generally transplanted in the course of the autumn
into the places where they are intended to stand, that
they may be confirmed before winter, and shoot up
readily into-flower in the following summer.

Annual Plants. — Many of the annual species, though
of fugitive duration, are possessed of much beauty of
hue and elegance of form. They ^re further valuable
from their pliability, so to speak, and the promptitude
with wdiich they may be used. • They are besides of
easy culture, many requiring nothing more than to have
the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow and
flourish. Annuals may he divided into three classes,
the hardy, the half-hardy, and the tender. The first
class, as stated above, are sown at once in the ground
which they are to occupy ; the half-hm^dy succeed best
when aided at first by a slight hotbed, and then trans-
planted into the open air; the tender are kept in pots,
and treated as green-house or stove plants, to which de-
partments they properly belong. It is scarcely neces-
sary to remark, that the hardy and half-hardy sorts may
be grown either in patches or in beds, and are' subjected
to all the rules which regulate the disposition of common
border flowers. - .

Hardy Annuals. — Pl§itystemon citlifornicus ; Col-
lomiii coccinea ; Leptosiphon androsace and densiflo-
rus ; Viscaria oculata and Binneyii ; Valerianella con-
gesta : Eucharidium concinnum ; Godetia viscosa,

270 FLOWER GARDEN.

Lindlejana, and multiflora^, Eutoca multlflora, viscida ;
Campanula speculum, Lorii ; Malope trifida ; Hibiscus
trionum, bifrons ; Nolana, va-rious speeies ; Papaver
somniferum, numerous varieties; P. Rhoeas, varieties ;
Gilia capitataj ' tricolor, splendens ; Collinsia grandi-
flora ; bicolor ; Kaulfussia amelloides ; Clarkia pul-
cliella, elegans ; CEnothera rosea, rosea-alba, tencUa,
Romanzovii ; Senecio elegans : Mathiola annua (ten-
week stock) ; Aster sinensis (China aster) ; Lupinus,
several species ; Nemophila insignis, atomaria, cram-
boides, discoidalis ; Eschscholtzia californica, crocea ;
Limnanthes grandiflora ; Calandrina grandiflora ; Bar-
tonia aurea ; Colinsia bicolor, verna, heterophjlla ;
Clintonia pulchella, elegans ; Malope grandiflora ; Lep-
tosiphon luteus ; Platjstemon californicum; Collomia
grandiflora ; Coreopsis diversifolia ; Sanvitalia pro-
cumbcns ; Phacelia congesta, tenacetifolia ; Caliopsis
astrosanguinea ; Centaurea Americana ; Lasthena cali-
fornica ; Madia elegans ; Lupinus bicolor, elegans ;
Helichrysum mecranthum ; Adonis autumnalis ; Iberis
umbellata ; Alyssum, several species ; Linaria, va^i'ious
species ; Delphinium Ajacis, consolida ; Lavatera tri-
mestris; Sphenogyne speciosa ; .Cladanthus arabicus;
Schizanthus Priestii ; Eucaridium grandiflorum ; Papa-
ver Marsillii ; Eutoca Wrangeliana, divaricata, and
Menziesii ; Silene armeria ; Rudbeckia amplexicaulis.'
Half-hardy Annuals. — Callistema hortense ; Lopezia
racemosa ; Rhodanthe Manglesii ; Tagetes patula
(French marigold), erecta (African marigold), race-
mosa, &c. ; Zinnia elegans, pauciflora ; Xeranthemum
annuum, Helichrysum fulgidum, Chrysanthemum cari-
natum ; Schizanthus pinnatus, porrigens, <jrrahami,
Hookeri ; Salpiglossis atro-purpurea, picta ; Petunia

ANNUAL PLANTS. 271

n jctaginiflora ; Mirabilis Jalapa ; Mesembryanthemum
crjstalHnum, tricolor, white and red ; Brachycoma
iberidifolia ; Clintonia elegans, pulcbella ; Phlox Drum-
mondii, with its varieties ; Campanula stricta ; Ipo-
mopsis elegans ; Argemone grandiflora ; Didiscus coeru-
leus ; Ipomopsis elegans; Himnemannia fumari^efolia ;
Ageratum Mexicanum ; Limnanthus Douglassii ; Blu-
menbachia incana, multifida ; Heliophila araboides ;
Hibiscus Africanus ; Cosmus tenuifolius ; Calandrina
discolor, grandiflora ; Loasa tricolor, insignis, lateritia;
Anagallis Indica, lilacina ; Salpiglossis straminea ;
Amaranthus caudatus.

Tender Annuals. — Impaticns Balsamina, Browallia
elata, Celosia cristata (cockscomb), Gomphrgena
globosa ; Solanum melongena; Ipora?ea Quamoclit ;
Mimosa pudici (humble plant), sensitiva (sensitive
plant) ; Thunbergia alata ; Hedysarum gyrans, or mov-
ing plant, which, in our hot-houses, often endure for two
seasons (as do also Mimosa pudica and sensitiva) ;
Browallia grandiflora ; Cleome' rosea, heterophylla ;
Scyphanthus elegans ; Loasa Pentlandica ; Martynia
proboscidea ; Lisianthus Russellianus.

We have here enumerated only a small selection of
species',* out of a multitude which is continually receiv-
ing accessions. A good many of th^ sorts mentioned
have been introduced during the last twenty years; and
we doubt not that, in an equal period from the present,
many more will come into notice.

Before leaving this part of the subject, it may be
proper to mention that it is now the practice of some
florists to grow and treat as annuals, or rather as bien-

Additional lists in Appendix!

272 FLOWEIl GARDEN.

nials, great quantities of the more liardj Pelargonia,
Verben^e, Salvi?e, Fuclisiie, Petunioe, and other genera.
Grown in moderate-sized pots, they are kept in reserve
in frames or cold vineries during winter. About the
end of May, or as soon aa there is. no longer any ap-
prehension of injury from £i'Ost, the plants are taken
out of the pots and plunged into the open ground, in
any warm sunny spot or clump in the flower garden.
If the stems be long or naked,, they are pegged to the
earth. Towards the middle of July they begin to grow
vigorously, and in August or September present, in
luxuriance at least, a better specimen of their native
vegetation than we- see elsewhere in our gardens. Upon
the approach of frost they are, in general, left to their
fate, as it is easier to propagate new ones than to pre-
serve the old. These plants, with some of the fine new
annuals, and the gorgeous Dahlias, .give a splendor to
the autumnal flower garden which in former times it did
not possess.

- florists' floaters. .

This technical appellation has been restricted to cer-
tain flowers, which have been especial favorites with
florists, and have consequently received a large share
of their attention.* Though possessed of great indi-

* The finest new varieties of florists' flowers, as well as novel-
ties in the stri<?tly botanical department, are figured and describ-
ed in Harrison's Floriculhiral Cabinet, a cheap monthly periodi-
cal, which has a vast circulation in England. While the letter-
press is rather deficient in botanical precision, and the engrav-
ing sometimes inferior in style of embellishment, it is certain
that much useful information may be gleaned fi-ora the work,

HYACINTHS. 273

vidual beauty, few of them are calculated to make a
show at a distance, and the arrangements requisite for
their culture do not harjnonize well with the general
disposition of a flower garden. It is therefore desira-
ble, particularly when considerable refinement is aimed
at, that a separate garden, or a separate section of the
garden, should be set apart for their culture. The
more robust or less valuable varieties, however, which
are often as ornamental as the most esteemed, may be
introduced into -the general parterres. We. shall notice
the most considerable, in the order in which they na-
turally attract attention.

The Hyacinth^ Hyacinthus orientalis, one of the most
beautiful and fragrant of the spring flowers, is a native
of the Levant, where it occurs abundantly, in form not
unlike our common harebell. It has long been a favor-
ite in the East ; but has been brought to its present ar-
tificial perfection in Holland, chiefly since the beginning
of last century. Many years ago it was successfully
grown in the vicinity of Edinburgh, by James Justice,
F. R. S., one of the most ingenious horticulturists of his
time ; but it must be confessed that, in the culture of
this flower, the British florists have never attained to
the eminence of the Dutch, principally, however, as is
alleged by some, from want of attention and painstak-
ing. According to Miller, the catalogues of the Haar-
lem florists used to enumerate 200 sorts, some of which
sold as high as .£200 a bulb ; they are now less numer-
ous, and Etiuch less expensive.

both as to new vavieties and superior modes of culture ; and it
is but fair to add that the work hsts been greatly improved of
late years.
24

274 FLOWER GARDEN.

Hyacinths are either single, semidouble, or double,
and exhibit a great variety of tint. In a fine flower the
stalk should be tall, strong, and upright ; the blossoms
numerous, large, and suspended in a horizontal direc-
tion ; the whole flower having a compact pyramidal
form, with the uppermost blossom quite erect ; plain
colors should be clear and bright ; and strong<;olors are
preferable to pale ; when colors are mixed, they should
blend with elegance.

The hyacinth delights m a rich light sandy soil ; and
it is chiefly owing to the want of these qualities in his
composts that the British florist fails in the growth of
this beautiful plant. The Dutch compost, as given by
the late Hon. and Rev. Mr. Herbert in the London
Sortie. Transactions, \o\. iv., is the following: One-
third coarse sea or river sand ; one-third rotten cow-
dung without litter ; and one-third leaf mould. The
natural soil is removed to the depth of at least two feet,
and the vacant space filled up with compost, previously
prepared and well mixed. These materials retain their
qualities for six or seven years, but the Dutch do not
plant hyacinths upon the same place for tw^o years suc-
cessively. In the alternate years they plant it with
narcissus or crocus. We may mention that, in one of
the finest beds of hyacinths ever seen in Scotland, a con-
siderable portion of the soil was composed of sleech, a
sort of sandy and marly deposition from the ooze on the
shores of the Forth.

According to Mr. Main, St. Crispin's day, the 25th
of October, is the best to plant the bulbs. They are
generally arranged in rows, eight inches asunder, there
being four rows in each bed ; or, if more convenient,
they may be placed in rows across the bed. The bulbs

HYACINTHS. 275-

are sunk about three or four inches deep, -and it is re-
commended to put a small quantity of clean sand below
and all around each. As the roots are liable to be in-
jured by frost, it is usual to cover the beds with decayed
tanners' bark, with litter, or with awnings. The first
may be considered the neatest during winter, but an
awning is nearly indispensable in spring, when the lin-
gering colds prove exceeding hurtful to the young flow-
er-j^tems. The awning may be made of coarse sheeting
or duck. As the flower-stems appear, they are tied to
little rods to keep them upright and preserve them from
accident. In order to perfect the colors, the rays of the
sun are admitted in the morning or in the evening, but
the glare of mid-day and the cold of night are both ex-
cluded. When the season of blossom is over, the awn-
ing is removed, or only replaced to keep off heavy rains.
Much of the success, in the culture of this flower, de-
pends on the subsequent management of the bulbs. It
is the practice in Holland, about a month after the
bloom, or when the tips of the leaves assume a withered
appearance, to dig up the roots, and, cutting off the
stem and the foliage within half an inch of the bulb,
but leaving the fibres untouched, to lay the bulbs side^
ways on the ground, covering them with half an inch of
dry earth. After three weeks, they are again taken up,
cleaned, and removed to the store-room. In this coun-
try, it is more common to allow them to stand till the
leaves be withered, and then to dig them up at once.
In the store-room the roots should be kept dry, well air-
ed, and apart from each other. "

Where forcing is practiced, a few hyacinths" may be
forced in deep flower-pots filled with light earth, and,
when coming into flower, transferred to the green-house,

276 FLOTVER nARDEN.

which they enliven at the most dead season of the year.
In chambers, they are grown in water-glasses made for
the purpose ; or, with still greater advantage, in boxes
filled with damp hypnum-moss.

New varieties of hyacinths are procured by sowing
the seed ; but this is a tedious process, and seldom fol-
lowed in this country. The established sorts are pro-
pagated by offsets or small bulbs, which 'form at the
base of the parent bulb. Almost all the hyacinths cul-
tivated in this country are imported from Holland, and
the quantity of roots annually introduced must be very
great.

The Tulip^ Tulipa Gesneriana, is a native of the
East, whence it was introduced into Europe about the-
middle of the sixteenth century. Gaudy as it is, it has
no proper corolla, but only a calyx of six colored sepals.
About the year 1635, the culture of the tulip was very
engrossing ; and, indeed, the rage for possessing choice
sorts had become so great in Holland as to give rise
to a strange species of gambling, known to the collec-'
tors of literary and scientific- anecdotes by the name of
Tulipo-mania, which has tended to bring unmerited dis-
credit on this fine flower. At present, the finer tulips
are mostly of moderate price, and though not to be
met with in every garden, have yet some zealous culti-
vators.

• There are some varieties, such as the early Due Van
Thol, yellow, white, and red ; the Clarimond, the Par-
rots, and the Double Tulips, which belong, properly
speaking, to the general cultivator. The genuine tulip-
grower despises these, and will^not sufi'er them to enter
his select bed. In England, the florists' tulips are
arranged under four classes. 1. The Bizarres, which

THE TULIP. 277

have a yellow ground marked with purple or scarlet.
2. The ^i/hloemens with a white ground, marked with
violet or purple. 3. The Roses, with a white ground,
marked with rose or cherry color. 4. The Self or
Plain-coloured tulips, which are of one uniform color,
and are chiefly valued as breeders. The bybloemen
class includes most of those tulips which are held in
high estimation in Britain ; but the rose or cherry colored
are perhaps the most pleasing.

The properties of a fine late tulip, as specified by
Mr. Hogg, are the following, somewhat abridged. The
stem should be strong, erect, thirty inches high : the
flower .large, of six petals (sepals), which should pro-
ceed almost horizontally at first, and, turning up, should
form an almost perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather
widest at top. The three exterior petals should be
rather larger than the three interior ones : the limbs
of the petals should be rounded, and freed from every
species of serrature. The ground color of the flower
at the bottom should be clear white or clear yellow ;
and the various rich colored stripes, which are the
principar ornament of a fine tulip, should be regular,
bold, and distinct at the margin, and terminate in fine
broken points, elegantly feathered or penciled. There
are other refinements upon which florists are not quite
agreed : and it must be confessed that their standard
of excellence .is- somewhat factitious ; for, to an unin-
structed eye, though practiced in the contemplation of
other sorts of beauty, a tulip, which by them is looked
upon as worthless, will often appear as fine as the
choicest variety in the select bed. Fine tulips are so
numerous that it is scarcely pos&ible to name the most

24*

278 FLOitVEH 'garden.

desirable. Among the bizarres, the King, Polyphemus,
and Everard, are highly prized.

Tulips prosper in a prepared compost of light turfy
soil, richly manured with well-rotted cow-dung. Twenty
inches depth of soil should be removed, and the vacant
space filled up with compost. Some use alternate
layers of light soil and cow-dung. The bed should be
filled up with compost about the middle of October,
and in a fortnight, when the soil has subsided, the bulbs
are planted in rows, distant seven or eight inches, and
at the depth of about three inches. A little clean sand
may be put around the bulbs. After planting, the bed
may be covered over with tan, as in the case of hya-
cinths. In spring, it is necessary to shield the leaves
and flower-stalks from frost, and also from heavy rains;
and when in bloom, the flowers should be sheltered
from the sun's rays, by which they are speedily injured.
A canvas awning, so mounted on a frame that it can
be easily withdrawn and replaced, is requisite for every
fine collection. The tulip is often regarded as scent-
less; but this is a mistake, for when concentrated under
the awning, the odor is very perceptible. After the
sepals have fallen, the seed-vessels are broken ofi" close
by the stem, to prevent the plant from exhausting
itself in perfecting seed, and to direct its energies to
the forming of the new bulb. When the leaves have
"withered, the bulbs are taken up, dried, and stored,
until the j^lanting season come round.

Tulips are readily propagated by offsets, which are
taken off from the parent bulbs, and nursed in separate
beds till they be full grown. New varieties are raised
from seed ; they are from five to seven years old before
they flower^ and, if raised from promiscuous seed, they

THE RANUNCULUS. 279

often turn out worthless. Early in the eighteenth
century, the distinguished Scottish cultivator, Justice
(already mentioned as a most successful cultivator of
hyacinths), was eminently successful in raising fine
seedling tulips ; and some skillful florists of our own
day, such as Mr. Oliver, of Edinburgh, succeed in break-
ing their seedlings into colors equal to the choicest
byblcemens of Holland. They save the seeds from the
first-rate sorts, the stigma of the intended parent flower
having been fertilized with the pollen of some other ex-
cellent variety. Seedling tulips, it may be remarked,
present this anomaly for the first two or three years,
that they form their new bulbs several inches below the
old ones, so that an inexperienced cultivator is some-
times apt to miss them at the time of lifting.

The Ranunculus (R. Asiaticus) is, like many other
of the florists' flowers, a native of the Levant, where it
is a favorite of the Turks. It has sported into innu-
merable varieties, and those now in cultivation in Eng-
land are mostly of British origin. The plant is of
small stature, furnished with decomposite leaves, and
rising from a root formed by a bundle of little tubers.

According to the canons of floral criticism, the pro-
perties of a fine double ranunculus are the following :
The stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to
ten inches high, supporting a large, well-formed blossom
at least two inches in diameter^ consisting of numerous
petals, the largest at the outside, and gradually dimi-
nishing in size as they approach the centre of the flower,
which should be well filled up with them. The blossom-
should be of a hemispherical form ; its component petals
imbricated, neither too closely nor too much separated,
and having rather a perpendicular thjin a horizontal

280 FLOWER GARDEN.

direction. The petals should be broad, and have per-
fectly entire well-rounded edges ; their colors should
be dark, clear, rich, or brilliant, either consisting of
one color throughout, or be otherwise variously diver-
sified on an ash, white, sulphur, or^ fire-colored ground,
or regularly striped, spotted, or mottled, in an elegant
manner.

The ranunculus requires a stronger and moister soil
than most other flowers. Maddock prefers a fresh,
strong, rich loam. Hogg recommends a fresh loam,
with a considerable portion of rotted coW or'horse-dung.

The Rev.- Mr. Williamson {Hort. Trans., yo\. iv.)
uses a stiff clay loam, with a fourth of rottisn dung.
" The bed should be dug from eighteen inches to two
feet deep, and not raised more than four inches above
the level of the walks, to preserve the moisture more
effectually : at about five inches below the surface should
be placed a stratum of two-year-old rotten cow-dung,
mixed with earth, six or eight inches thick ; but the
earth above this stratum, where the roots are to be
placed, should be perfectly free from dung, which would
prove injurious if nearer. The fibres will draw suffi-
cient nourishment at the depth above mentioned ; but
if the dung were placed deeper, it would not receive so
much advantage from the action of the air." Other
florists have recommended to put the manure at least
two feet and a half below the surface of the earth.
The principal object, however, is to maintain through-
out the bed a genial moisture ; and this is to be done
by avoiding all hot gravelly earths, and particularly
soils that are apt to cake. The tubers are planted late
in autumn, or early in spring, in rows five or six inches
apart, and three or four inches separate in the rows.

THE ANEMONE. 281

They should be so close that the foliage shall cover the
surface of the bed, for in this way a salutary degree of
shade and moisture is preserved. The autumn-planted
roots must be sheltered from frost by old tan or hooped
mattings. When in flower, the plants are covered Avith
an awning. When the leaves wither, the roots are
taken up, dried, and stored.

Scarcely any florists' flower is more readily propa-
gated from seed, or sooner repays the care of the culti-
vator. The seed is obtained sparingly from semidouble
sorts, which are often - of themselves very beautiful
flowers. It is generally sown in boxes in autumn or
spring; but it may also be sown with success in the
open ground. The young plants flower, often in the
second, and always in the third, year.

The Anemone of the flower garden includes two spe-
cies. Anemone coronaria, a native of the Levant, and
A. hortensis, a native of Italy. These have long shared
the attention of the florist, and in his arrangements
have generally been associated wjth the ranunculus, re-
sembling it in its natural affinities and mode of culture.
The single and semidouble flowers are considered
nearly as fine as the double ones. The sorts are nume-
rous, but at present are seldom distinguished by names.
In a fine double anemone, the stem should be strong,
erect, and not less than nine inches high. The flower
should be at least two and a half inches in diameter,
consisting; of an exterior row of lar^e well-rounded
petals, in the form of a broad shallow cup, the interior
part of wdiich should contain a number of small petals,
mixed with stamens, imbricating each other. The
colors should be clear and distinct when diversified in
the same flower, or striking and brilliant when there

282 FLOWER GARDEN.

is onlj one tint. Of late years, anemones remarkable
for the magnitude of their flowers and the brilliancy of
their hues have been imported from Holland, particu-
larly by Mr. Lawson, of Edinburgh.

The soil and culture are -so nearly the same as in the
ranunculus that it is needless to specify them. The
plant continues longer in the flower, and the leaves often
remain so long green that it is difficult to find a period
of inaction in which to take up the roots. It has been
recommended that, as soon as the bloom is over, the
bed should be screened from rain by mattings until the
leaves wither. As the tuberous roots are rather brittle,
they require considerable care in handling. Anemones
are easily raised from the seed. A bed of single ane-
mones, it may be remarked, is a valuable addition to
a flower garden, as it afi*ords, in a warm situation, an
abundance of handsome and often brilliant spring
flowers, almost as clearly as the snow-drop or the crocus.

When the bloom of the hyacinth, tulip,' ranunculus,
or anemone, is over, the beds should be filled up with
small showy annuals, which will soon restore their, gay
aspect. - These annuals are to be raised on a hotbed,
and kept in it, or in patches in a piece of reserve
ground, till wanted.

The Narcissus is an extensive genus, including a
great many interesting species and varieties. It be-
longs, however, rather to the botanico-florist than to
the florist proper ; but, as it contains many plants of
great elegance, it ought to receive more general atten-
tion. The Polyanthus Narcissus (N. Tazetta) afi'ords
the varieties which are yearly cultivated by florists,
the bulbs of which are yearly imported .in quantities
from Holland. These prosper in a light soil, contain-

THE IRIS. 283

ing a little well-rotted dung. The roots should not be
stirred more frequently than once in three years ; and
this remark applies also to Narcissus Jonquilla and
odorus, the small and large jonquil, of which fragrant
plants there should be beds in every flower garden.
N. Tazetta, like the hyacinth, may also be grown either
in pots or in water-glasses.

Iris. — The species which peculiarly appertain to the
florist are, I. Xiphium and Xiphioides, of both of which
there are many beautiful varieties. They are of easy
culture, succeeding in almost any kind of soil, and re-
quiring to be moved only once in three or four years.
The roots are not improved by being kept out of the
ground ; and perhaps the best method is, upon taking
them up and freeing them from their shaggy skins, to
replant them immediately.

Besides these, may be mentioned the Persian Iris
(I. Persica), a low bulbous-rooted plant, with delicate
blue or violet-colored flowers, and some degree of fra-
grance. It is extensively cultivated by the Dutch, from
whom bulbs are annually procured. It is sometimes
grown in water, but oftener in pots of nearly pure sand.
When planted out, it requires to be guarded from frosts
and heavy rain. The Snake's-head Iris (I. tuberosa) is
also a fragrant species, and is more hardy than the pre-
ceding. Mr. Denson, who has been very successful in
the culture of this plant, recommends, in G-ard. Mag.^
vol. viii., that it should be allowed to stand two or three
years in succession on the same spot: when, "in July,
take it up and divide the tubers, planting them, soon
as dug up, six inches deep in a compost formed of
half-friable mould, or old hotbed dung, rotted to the
consistence of soil. Let the situation be a dry bed or

284 FLOWER GARDEN.

border, at the base of a wall with a southern aspect,
and plant the tubers close to the wall, or only a few
inches from it." The Chalcedonian Iris (I. susiana) is
the most magnificent .species of the genus, and is well
worth the labor of the cultivator. Its stalk, seldom
a foot high, is surmounted by a splendid corolla, the
petals of which are nearly as broad as the hand,
and are of purple or black ground, delicately striped
with'white. It prefers a loamy soil and a sunny expo-
sure, and must be guarded from moisture and frosts in
winter. For these three species, Mr. Loudon recom-
mends the protection of a frame.

There are many other species which are worthy of a
place in a select flower garden,, and, when well grouped
in a peaty earth, form an agreeable appendage to a
parterre. Of these, we may mention the low-creeping
I. cristata and pumila, the more aspiring prismatica,
flexuosa, virginica, sordida, variegata, and Swertii, the
taller Sibirica, triflora, and ochroleuca, the broad-
leaved Florentina, Germanica, and Sambucina, and the
stately pallida, whicK for simple elegance, is not out-
shone by any of its compeers. This beautiful family
was zealously cultivated by the late amiable David Fal-
cohar, Esq., of Carlowrie, who introduced same of its
most interesting members to the horticultural world in
Scotland.

The Lily. — Of the genus Lilium there are many
species, some of which have not been exhibited to the
extent of their capabilities in the flower garden. The
old white Lily (L. candidum), after supplying the poets
with so much imagery, has retired into the modest
station of a common border-flower. The flaunting
Orange-Lily (L. bulbiferum) and the Turk's Cap (L,

THE DAHLIA, OR GEORGINA. 285

Martagon), may occupy the same place. The scarlet
Martagon (L. Chalcedonicum) is worthy of more care,
as being more beautiful and more tender. It does not
relish being disturbed, and it dislikes peat. On the
contrary, the splendid Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum), which
propagates rapidly by auxiliary bulbs, succeeds best in
peaty soil. The same remark applies to the rarer L.
canadense and superbum (magnificent species), as well
as to L. concolor, Pennsylvanicum, and others, which
ought to be more common in our gardens. L. Japoni-
cum, longiflorum, and lancifolium, in which the genus
attains its greatest magnificence, unfortunately require
a finer climate than ours, and some bulbs of these
should, therefore, be grown in pots under glass, but
others may be risked in a sheltered border.

The GrladioU or corn-flags are extremely ornamental.
The Cardinal Lily (Gladiolus cardinalis) well deserves
the name of superb : when seen in flower in masses, the
efi'ect is truly brilliant. In order to success, it must be
grown in tufts, and the tufts should be left undisturbed
for successive years ;" the old skins of the decayed
bulbs permitting the wet to drain away, and preventing
the earth from lying close and heavy on the new bulbs,"
as observed by the late eminent Mr. Herbert. A littk
litter of any. sort thrown over the bed aS'ords sufficient
protection during the winter.

Omitting Crocus, Fritillaria, and other bulbous ge-
nera, which are sometimes treated as florists* flowers,
we proceed to one of the prim-e ornaments of the au-
tumnal flower garden, the Dalilia, or Georgina, as it
is called by some writers.

The Dahlia (of which there are two principal species
D. variabilis and coccinea) is a native of Mexico, from

286 FLOWER GARDEN.

which it was introduced in 1789, but afterwards lost by
our cultivators. It was re-introduced in 1804 ; but it
was not till ten years later that it was generally known
in our gardens. The first plants were single, of a pale
purple color, and though interesting, as affording a new
form of floral ornament, they by no means held forth a
promise of the infinite diversity of tint and figure ex-
hibited by their double-flowered successors. At present
the varieties are endless^ each district of the country
possessing suites of its own, and cultivators occasionally
raising at one sowing a dozen of kinds which they think
worthy of preservation. The results have been most
propitious to the flower garden, from which, indeed, the
Dahlia could now nearly as ill be spared, as the potato
from the kitchen garden.

The varieties of Dahlia may be classed under the fol-
lowing heads : 1. The Qommoii or Oamellia form, under
which the double sorts first appeared. This is by far
the most numerous class, and perhaps the most beauti-
ful. The dwarf sorts are in most repute. 2. The
Anemone-flowered, having a radius of large petals, and
a central disk of smaller ones, somewhat like the double
anemone. 3. G-lobeflotvered, having small globular
flowers, which are extremely double. They possess
great intensity of color, and, rising for the most part
about the leaves, make generally as striking an appea^r-
ance as those of a more massive efflorescence.

In a fine Dahlia the flower should be fully double,
always filling the centre ; the florets should be entire or
nearly so, regular in their disposition, each series over-
lapping the other backwards : they may be either plain
or quilled, but never distorted : if, instead of being re-
flexed, the florets are recurved, the flower will be more

THE DAHLTAj OR GEORGINA. 287

syinmetrical. The peduncles ought to be strong enough
to keep the blossoms erect, and long enough to show
the flowers above the leaves. Bright and deep velvety
colors are most admired.

Dahlia competitions now excite great interest in the
floricultural world ; almost every considerable town hav-
ing its annual show, when gold and silver medals, cups
and other pieces of plate, are keenly contended for;
private amateurs and professional cultivators competing
respectively among themselves. Fine flowers have be-
come so numerous tha-fc it were a hopeless task to off^er
a list. Among the most highly prized in England at
the present day may only be mentioned Springfield
Rival, Dodd's Mary, Neville's Hope, Duchess of Rich-
mond, Essex Rival, Widnall's Conductor, Suffolk Hero,
Ruby, Sussex Rival, Marquis of Lothian, Fireball,
Cox's Yellow, Ansell's Unique, Grace Darling, Climax,
Hylas.

New varieties are, of course, procured from seed ; the
utmost attention being paid to the parentage and" the
crossing of flowers of diff'erent colors. If sown in flow-
er-pots, and aided by a little heat, the seedlings, speed-
ily planted out, will flower the first season. Establish-
ed varieties are propagated by dividing the large tuber-
ous roots ; but, in doing so, care must be taken to have
an eye to each portion of tuber, otherwise it will not
grow. Sometimes shoots of rare varieties are grafted
on the roots of others. A good method, now generally
practiced, is to take cuttings close from the roots of the
plants, as soon as they shoot up in the beginning of sum-
mer, and to strike them in sm^ll flower-pots. They
strike freely, and the plants generally show flower dur-
ing the same season.

288 FLOWER GARDEN.

Dahlias succeed best in an open situation, and in rich
loam; but there is scarcely any garden soil in which
they will not thrive, if well manured. They are, how-
ever, injured by being repeatedly planted on the same
spot. They may stand singly like common border flow-
ers, but have the most imposing appearance when seen
in masses arranged according to their stature. Old roots
often throw up a multitude of stems, which render thin-
ning necessary. As the plants increase in height, they
should be furnished with strong stakes, by being tied to
which they may withstand high winds. Dahlias gene-
rally continue to show their -flowers till they be inter-
rupted by frost in the end of autumn. The roots are
then taken up, dried, and stored in a cellar, or some
Qther place where they may- be secured from frost and
moisture. Early in the spring, the tubers of the finer
varieties are placed among leaf-mould on a hotbed, or
in boxes in a stove, to start them, as the gardeners
speak. When thus forwarded, they begin to flower in
July, or six weeks earlier than usual ; and cuttings
taken off" from such started tubers in April are sure to
form flowering plants in September.

The Auricula (Primula Auricula) is a native of the
Alps and the Caucasus. It has long been an inmate of
our gardens, and has generally been a favorite with
those florists whose means and appliances are of a limit-
ed kind. Some of the most successful cultivators at
present are among the operatives in the vicinity of Man-
chester and Paisley.

Besides the double varieties, which have never been
in much repute. Auriculas are classed under two divi-
sions : the Selfs or plain-colored, and the variegated, or
painted sorts. Professed florists confine their attention

THE AURICULA. 289

to tlie latter : it must, however, be confessed, that their
criteria of fine flowers are often arbitrary, and that, al-
though many of their favorites are examples of un-
doubted beauty, the eye of the unitiated would gene-
rally prefer the simpler hues of the self-colored flowers.
The auricula, though now almost wholly an artificial
plant, and strangely transformed from its original ap-
pearance, still inclines to a moist soil and shady situa-
tion. The florists' varieties are grown in rich composts,
for the preparation of which numberless receipts have
been given. We quote that of Mr. Hogg, of Padding-
ton, an experienced grower : " One barrow of rich yel-
low loam, or fresh earth from some meadow, or pasture-
land, or common, with the turf well rotted; one barrow-
load of leaf-mould, another of cow-dung, two years old
at least; and one peck of river, not &ea sand. For
strong plants intended for exhibition, add to the same
composition, as a stimulant, a barrowful of well-decayed
night-soil, with the application of a liquid manure be-
fore the top-dressing in February, and twice more, but
not oftener, in March. A portion of light, sandy, peat-
earth may be added, as a safe and useful ingredient,
particularly for plants kept in low damp situations."

Auriculas may be propagated from seed. It is to be
sown in January or February in boxes, which are kept
under cover, and exposed only to the rays of the morn-
ing sun. When s^ed has been'saved from the finer sorts,
the operation is one of considera^ble nicety, as it not un-
frequcntly happens that the best seedlings are at first
exceedingly weak. The judicious grower never neglects
these, but rather nourishes them with double care.
They generally flower in the second or third year ; and
the florist is fortunate who obtains three or four good

25*

290 FLOWER GARDEN.

sorts out of a large sowing. The established varieties
are increased by dividing the roots, an operation which
is performed in July or in .the beginning of A'ugust.

Eine auriculas are grown in pots about five or six
inches in diameter ; the longer or deeper, so much the
better. These are kept in frames, or stages, constructed
for the purpose. For winter, perhaps, there is no-
thing better than a common hotbed frame, a^ this ad-
mits of an exact adjustment of air and temperature,
things to which attention is absolutely necessary, as
the plants approach the flowering season in the end of
March. After the bloom is over, or in the beginning
of June, the pots may be placed on stages slightly ele-
vated, and facing the north. Though not absolutely
necessary, it is useful to have the power of sheltering
them from long-continued rains. It is usual every
year to shift the plants, shortening the roots and giving
them a large portion of new soil, soon after the flowers
have decayed. For more detailed information on this
subject, we may refer to the well-known treatises of
Maddock and Hoo-o;.

The Polyanthus is supposed to be a seminal variety
of Primula vulgaris ; and is much cultivated by some
florists. Like the auricula it has sported into many
hundred varieties. It is not necessary to give a detailed
account of its culture, as it scarcely differs from that
of the auricula. The polyanthus, however, is the har-
dier of the two, and seldom perishes from cold. It
may be mentioned that there are several beautiful
double varieties -of the common Primrose, both white
and dark purple, which are deserving of a place in
every garden.

The whole gmvi^ Primula merits the attention of

THE CARNATION. 291

the curious cultivator. P. helvetica and nivalis adorn
the flower borders in spring with their abundant trusses
of blossom. P. marginata, when planted in a shady
situation, is equally lavish of its pale and delicately
beautiful flowers. P. viscosa and integrifolia, with their
intense colors, are the ornaments af the alpine frame ;
or, with P. longifolia, farinosa, and Scotica, may be
plunged into the margin of the American border. A
supply, however, should be kept in pots. Besides these,
w^e might name P. cortusoides, Pallasii, Pajinuri, and
others. The . curious P. verticillata, and the splendid
P. sinensis, are inmates of the green-house. Of this
last there is a white variety, and also a double-flowered
variety. The florist of simple taste will love them all.

Tho Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) has long,
been a favorite flower, not only for the beauty but for
the delightful fragrance of its blossoms. It is a native
of Germany, and it is occasionally found in an appa-
rently wild state in England. The cultivation of it,
however, is by no means easy, but calls forth all the
resources of the. florist. The varieties, which are very
numerous, have been arranged under three heads :
Flakes^ having two colors, with their stripes running
quite through and along the petals ; Bizarres, irregu-
larly spotted, and striped with not fewer than three
colors ; Picotees, spotted, with serrated or fringed pe-
tals. Mr. Hogg, who, has written a treatise expressly
on this flower, has given u catalogue of nearly 350
sorts.

Carnations are propagated by layers or pipings : the
former method is most practiced, but with some sorts
piping, it is said, should be preferred. Layering is per-
formed when the phmt is in full bloom. Proper shoots

292 FLOWER GARDEN.

are selected; a few of the lower leaves are then removed;
an incision is made a little below a suitable joint, pass-
ing up to the joint, but not through it; the shoot is then
pegged down and covered with some fresh soil, the tip
being left above ground. Layers are generally found
to be rooted in about a month after the operation has
been performed. Pipings are little cuttings, separated
at a joint, and planted thickly under bell-glasses on a
slight hotbed. They require great attention, and are
precarious in their success, but form excellent plants.

Numerous-directions have been given respecting com-
posts for carnations. We abridge those of Hogg, who
is the principal authority in this matter. Take three
barrows of loam, one and a half of garden-mould, two
of horse-dung, and one of coarse sand ; let these be mix-
ed, and thrown into a heap, and turned over two or
three times in the winter, particularly in frosty weather.
Towg^rds the end of November a barrow-load of lime is
added while hot, to aid in the decomposition of the soil,
and destroy worms. For the varieties which are liable
to sport, he recommends a poorer compost.

The more robust carnations are planted out in beds
or singly in the flower garden ; but the finer and more
tender sorts are grown in pots of about a. foot in diame-
ter. The time of potting is about the end of March.
When the flower-stems show themselves, they are fur-
nished with rods, to which they are tied as they length-
en, to prevent their being broken by the wind or other
accident. When the j)lants begin to expand their blos-
soms, they are removed to a stage calculated to exhibit
their beauties. Some florists place ligatures around the
flower-buds, in order to prevent irregular bursting, and

THE PINK. 293

even arrange the petals, by removing distortions with
fine-pointed scissors.

New varieties are raised from seed. The seed of the
hardier double or semidouble sorts often affords a very
beautiful bed of flowers, and should not be neglected by
those who have the command of extensive flower gar-
dens.

The Pink is considered by botanists as merely a va-
riety of the preceding. It is, however, very distinct in
its character and constant in its habits. It is one of
the mechanics' flowers, and is cultivated most exten-
sively in the neighborhood of some of the manufactur-
ing towns. Its simple elegance does credit to the taste
of those who select it for their favorite ; and it deserves
a place in the garden of the highest as well as the lowest
in the land. Pinks are numerous, the growers at Pais-
ley enumerating about three hundred varieties. Those
are preferred which have the limb of the petals nearly
entire, and are well marked in the centre with bright
crimson or dark purple.

Pinks are mostly propagated by pipings in slight hot-
beds or under hand-glasses ; and when proper attention
is given to the due admission of air, they generally suc-
ceed. Occasionally rare sorts, which are scantily fur-
nished with grass, are propagated by layers. This
flower does not require such elaborate composts as some
others, but it likes fresh light soils, well manured with
decayed cow-dung. ■ Not more than two years of blooms
should be taken from the same bed, and it is the prxic-
tice of most florists to have a new bed every year. The
flower-stalks are supported i)y small sticks. As in the
carnation, ligatures of bast-matting, or collars of card,
are sometimes applied to the calyces of the flowers: but

294 FLOWER GARDEN.

this practice, however it may be followed by those who
judge according to the technical " criteria of a fine
flower," will scarcely be adopted by any who have an
eye for natural beauty.

Sweet Violets, including varieties of Viola odorata
and the Neapolitan and Russian violets, are very de-
sirable ornaments in the spring months : and the fra-
grance of their flowers is delightful when strewed on
any kind of server in the boudoir. To have them in
perfection, a new plantation should be made every year
as soon as they are done flowering, generally towards
the middle or end of May, preferring damp or cloudy
weather for the operation.

The genus Lobelia may now be regarded as affording
a group of florists' flowers. The leading species are
L. cardinalisj.fulgens, splendens, and syphilitica; but
there are several hybrids of merit. The cardinal flower,
of a fine scarlet color, has long been a valued plant.
It is propagated either by seed or by offsets. L. ful-
gens, of a rich crimson, is a still more showy species,
forming a magnificent plant. A Lobelia bed, consisting
of these species and of their hybrid offspring, haying,
perhaps some of the procumbent species on the outside
by way of edging, is calculated to produce a beautiful
effect in the flower garden, continuing in bloom the
whole season. Most of the kinds afford offsets readily;
if these be taken off and potted in autumn, in a light
sandy soil, they may be kept in a cool frame over win-
ter; or the entire old plants may be put into large pots,
and kept in the same way, the offsets being removed in
the spring and forming excellent plants.

It would lead us too much into detail to speak mi-
nutely of Calceolaria, Phlox, Chelone, Pentstemon,

CHINESE ^CHRYSANTHEMUM. 295

(Enotk&YSi, and other genera, which approach the cha-
racter of florists' flowers. To have them in perfection,
thej should be kept in beds by themselves ; and we are
persuaded that, were a moiety of the care bestowed upon
them which is lavished on florists' flowers properly so
called, they would amply repay the labor of the culti-
vator.

The Chinese Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum si-
nense), from the peculiar culture wbich it now under-
goes, may be considered to belong to this department of
flowers. It is a native of China, and though introduced
many years ago, its ornamental capabilities have only
recently been brought into notice. Flowering in No-
vember and December, it fills up, with its many-colored
blossoms, the blank of a most dreary season, and afi^ords
the means of decorating green-houses, conservatories,
and dwelling-houses, when almost all other means of
embellishment fail. Forty varieties were enumerated
by the late Mr Sabine, in the London Horticultural
3Ie7noirs; but it is believed that there are several others
not yet introduced, flowers of which are represented on
Chinese painted screens, in a stifi", but rigidly correct
style, and which we may soon expect to receive from
China. The Chrysanthemum is hardy enough to live
in the open air, but it requires the shelter of a wall,
and, from the lateness of its flowering, it is only the
early varieties that even in fine seasons are enabled to
unfold their blossoms against a south wall in our open
borders. It is seen in its beauty only when grown in
pots and under glass. Yearly plants are preferred.
In the beginning of April, cuttings of the last year's
shoots, about three inches long, are put singly into
small pots, filled with soil composed of one-half bog-

296 FLOWER GARDEN.

earth or leaf-mould, and one-half pure sand. Their
growth is expedited at first by gentle heat. In about a
month they are found to be rooted, and are placed in
a cold frame, in which they are kept till the beginning
of June, when they are put into larger pots, and set out
in some airy situation. About this time, the tops of the
plants are pinched off to make them bushy, but no more
side shoots are allowed to remain for flowering than the
plants are likely to be able to support without a stake.
In August, they are again shifted into larger pots, filled
with strong rich soil. During the whole season, the
pots are frequently moved to prevent the roots from
striking through, and they are never plunged. Mr.
Munro, of the London Horticultural Garden, whose me-
thod of culture we -have been describing, recommends
liquid manure to be applied from time to time in sum-
mer and autumn. Other cultivators, in order to have a
greater succession of flowers, and a- variety in the sta-
ture of the plants, strike cuttings at two seasons, in
March and in May, and likewise propagated by layers
in August. In the beginning of winter the plants are
placed in a cold frame or vinery, and they are brought
into a milder temperature as they are wanted. To pro-
duce large showy plants, a few of the chrysanthemums
of the former year may be selected, and being freed
fron suckers, and having the mould shaken from their
roots, may be repotted and shifted repeatedly during
the summer and autumn.

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES.

Glazed houses for the reception and culture of exotic
plants, though sometimes placed in connection with

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES.

297

similar structures in the forcing department, are now
almost universally regarded as appendages of the flower
garden. In the hands of architects they have assumed
a great variety of forms, and too often has practical
utility been sacrificed to architectural taste. We shall
confine ourselves to the exhibition of the principle of
the most important of these, and shall limit our remarks
to the Green-house, Conservatory, and the Stove.

The Green-house is intended to aff'ord a winter and
partly a summer shelter to the less tender classes of
exotic plants grown in pots. The annexed wood-cut ex-

Fii?. 17.

hibits the old-fashioned lean-io green-house. The gene-
ral form of the house is that of a vinery, with pretty
lofty front glass. The main part of the area is occu-
pied by a stage rising in steps to receive the potted
plants. At some height above the front flue is placed
a narrow horizontal bench of trellis-work, to receive
posts containing small plants which require to be near
the light. In England, since the repeal of the duty on
slate, this material has been in many cases advantageous-
ly employed in forming the pavement, the shelving, and
26

298

FLOWER GARDEN.

stages of plant-houses. The interior air is warmed hy one
or two flues, or other heating apparatus, according to its
volume. If a temperature of 45° Fahr. be maintained
during winter, it is sufficient. Sometimes green-houses
are constructed with span-roofs and a double stage; but
they have a very plain appearance, especially those which
are commonly erected in nursery gardens. They might
be made much more ornamental, with little loss of light,
as in the accompanying figure (Fig. 18), which is design-
ed for the south end of one of these span-roofed houses.

Fi- 18.

The plants have thus an east and west aspect, or enjoy
the morning and afternoon sun. Such houses may in-

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES.

299

deed assume any form ^YhIch taste can suggest, provided
there be a sufficiency of light, and the plants be not teo
far from the glass. The Jieath-house does not essen-
tially diifer from the green-house ; but for it a span-
roof is decidedly preferable, and provision should be
made for the most thorough ventilation.

In the Oonservatori/, the chief plants grow in beds of
earth sunk in the floor. The following figure shows
the principle of this species of house. The beds, marked

Fig. 19.

h 5, are" filled with a light soil, calculated for the plants
which are to inhabit them. This figure represents the

Fis. 20.

front elevation of the roof. Numerous varieties of this
structure also Imve appeared, and some most siimptuous
examples have been erected in the gardens of the
opulent. With similar restrictions as in the green-
house, the conservatory may bo said to be capable of
assuming any form. Ornamental climbing plants are
generally trained under the rafters, with a fine effect ;

300 FLOWER GARDEN.

such as Passiflora kermisina, Doliclios llgnosus, Ipo-
mcea coccinea, Michauxii, Horsfallige, and rubrocoe-
rulea.

The Plant-Stove may either be a dry-stove or a hark-
stove, or both combined; and is applied to the cultiva-
tion of tropical plants which require an elevated tem-
perature. The dry-stove may be considered as a green-
house, having a larger than usual apparatus for the
production of heat. The bark-stove is furnished some-
what in the manner of a pinery, with a receptacle to
contain a bed of fermenting tanners' bark, into which
the pots are plunged. In this country, stoves are re-
garded as belonging rather to the botanic than to the
flower garden : they are extremely useful, however, in
the latter ; for, besides presenting the florist with many
unusual forms of vegetation, they afi*ord in summer a
variety of beautiful plants, which, as they come into
bloom, maybe Introduced into the cooler green-house or
conservatory, and remain there till the flowering season
be over.

Sometimes the various botanical structures are com-
bined into one imposing assemblage, as that exhibited
in Fig. 21 ; a being a palm-house, b for New Hol-
land plants ; c large green-house, and the intermediate
spaces being occupied by dry-stove, heath-house, and
green-houses. This mode is, of course, suited only
for places of the first order, where splendor is an ob-
ject, where everything is on a great scale, and expense
little regarded. In a vast proportion of cases economy
must be studied ; and in villa gardens the ornamental
plant-house is very often attached to the library or the
drawing-room, or has a covered communication from
these apartments. A good plan for such a glazed house

BOTANICAL "STRUCTURES.

301

':-.,m^i

302 FLOWER GARDEN.

may be found in the Gardenerh Magazine vol. vi.,
p. 664.

Cfi'een-house |;?a/i^s. — This beautiful class of plants
has become so numerous that in a sketch like the pre-
sent it is impossible to give the names of even a limited
selection. We may once more refer to Mr. Loudon's
tables in his Encyclopsedia of Horticulture^ or to his still
more copious lists in the Hortus Britannicus, from both
of which works much valuable information on the sub-
ject may be obtained. The recent increase of species
makes the task of selection at once more necessary and
more difficult ; and it is one which, it must be con-
fessed, is often negligently performed. Many of the
finer sorts of woody plants are not propagated without
difficulty, and, consequently, being high-priced in the
nurseries, are found in requisite abundance only where
there is great liberality on the part of the proprietor.
On the other hand, the species which strike easily are
circulated by gardeners themselves, many of whom, by
their own interest and resources, more than half fill
their green-houses without calling for the pecuniary aid
of J;heir employers. To this cause may be ascribed the
perpetuation of many mean-looking plants, which, if
hardy, would scarcely be tolerated in well-kept shrub-
beries, and certainly ought not to encumber the green-
house.

Light mould produced by the rotting of turf taken
from pastures, and mixed with sand, if necessary, or
enriched by the addition of leaf-mould, is well adapted
for most gjeen-house plants. Some require a mixture
of peat-earth ; others thrive only in pure sandy peat.
If more specific directions be wished, we would recom-
mend the reader to have recourse to Cashing' s Exotic

BOTANICAL STEUCTURES. 303

Cfar^ener, or to the more recent work by the late Mr-
Sweet, entitled The Botanical Cultivator. The common
means of propagation is by cuttings, inserted in earth
or sand, and covered, if necessary, with bell-glasses.
A few sorts are increased by grafting or layering.
Nearly all may be raised from seed, large quantities
of which are annually imported from abroad. It may
be added many green-house plants ripen their seed in
this country, and the collectiDg of such seeds is too
often neglected.

Many of these plants require shifting and fresh earth
twice a year ; all of them should be repotted once a year
at least. It is the common practice to examine their
roots in spring or the early part of summer, and re-
moving the matted fibres, to put them into larger pots
if necessary. As room is extremely valuable in limited
green-houses, it is desirable that the plants should be
kept of a moderate size; and they are, therefore, rather
to be under- potted than otherwise. Many of the free-
growing plants require to be shifted again in August,
at which period of the year it is considered preferable
to repot those which need to be disturbed only once
a year. During the summer months, a great proportion
of the inmates of the green-house are placed in the open
air, on a spot paved with flagstones, or laid with coal-
ashes, to prevent the entrance of earth-worms into the
pots, and the spot selected should be well sheltered
from high winds. Meanwhile, their place in the green-
house maybe occupied by balsams and other tender
annuals of a showy character. On the approach of
winter, the plants are again placed under cover. All
that is necessary in the management of the green-house
in winter is to keep up a steady but^ very moderate

804 FLOWER GARDEN.

temperature, to preclude the evil effects of damp by
regular airing in mild, dry weather, and to attend to
slight AYatering where it may be needed.

It is worthy of remark, that many species of green-
house plants flourish mutih more luxuriantly, and make
a finer appearance when in flower, if planted in the
open border during the summer months. Cultivators
should therefore diligently propagate such plants by
cuttings in pots placed in hotbeds in early spring, so
as to have a store for planting out in June.

Of late years, particular genera of plants have come
greatly into vogue, and it would be an omission not
to notice some of them. Among the foremost may be
mentioned Pelargonium^ with its affinities. The Pelar-
goniums are of ^asy culture, being propagated readily
by cuttings, and requiring only to be shifted from time
to time. Young plants are very liable to be attacked
by the aphidion or green-fly. The most effectual cure
is tobacco-water (as procured from manufacturers of
tobacco, not a mere infusion of tobacco). If the plant
be small, it may be dipped into the liquid for a minute
or two, not only with impunity, but with great advan-.
tage, the insects being thus killed. Equal to these,- in
point of beauty of color, and certainly superior in
elegance of form, is the family of Cape heaths, or
Ericce. Of this genus there are said to be 600 species,
considerably more thanth^ half of which exist in our
collections. Many heaths may be raised from seed,
which occasionally ripens in this country: the most
common mode of propagation, however, is by cuttings,
and this in same, species is attended with difliculty.
'Y^rj small cuttings are . stuck into the purest white
sand, and closely covered with bell-glasses. The Erioee

THE CAMELLIA. 305

require a peaty and sandy soil, and great attention- in
"watering and giving plenty of air. To liave them in
perfection, a separate house is indispensable. The
heath-house should be very well lighted, easily and
thoroughly ventilated, and so planned that the plants
may be near the glass; at the same time provision
should be made, by mean-s of rollers of thin canvas, to
protect the plants from the scorching rays of the Sum-
mer sun, which are apt to induce mildew. For further
information, we may refer to the excellent little treatise
of Mr. M'Nab, of the Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, whose
success in this department is quite unrivaled, and in
whose hands Cape heaths attain a splendor which, we
believe, they never reach in the environs of Table
Mountain itself. The Epacridoe are a lovely tribe from
New Holland, which should be cultivated along with
the Cape heaths ; particularly Epacris impressa, nivalis,
variabilis, and campanulata.

List of free-hlooyning Hardy Heaths, in their order of
flowering from January to December. _ [Communi-
cated hy. Mr. J. 3IcN'ah.)

Erica herbacea. Erica Mackayana.

carnea. ramulosa,

mediterranea hybernica. ciliaris.

intermedia. stricta.

stricta. Calluna vulgaris, white, pink,

nana. red, and double.

arborca. Erica ciuerea, varieties.

australis. vagans.

nana. multiflora carnea.

totralix, varieties. rubra.

The superb genus Camellia is the only other that
shall here be noticed. ■ To the elegance of the finest

306 FLOWER GARBEN.

evefgr.eBn, the Camellia Japonica unites the beauty of
the fairest rose. The " Camellia, though a native of
Japan, is. not particularly tender, but, from some pecu-
liarities in its constitution, its culture requires a con-
siderable de;]rree of attentioli and care. Cuttino-s of the
single red variety strike freely, and upon these, as stocks,
the finer sorts are grafted by inarching or side-grafting.
The soil generally erbployed is a mixture of peat and
light loam. Care must be taken not to allow the roots
to become matted in the pots^. The young plants should
be shifted at least once a year ; when old, and in large
tubs, shifting once in two years will be sufficient. It is
found beneficial to apply a certain increased degree of
heat while the plants are growing, and till they form
flower-buds for the following season. To have Camel-
lias in perfection, a house with a span-roof should be
appropriated for their reception. There are some splen-
did collections of this noble plant, in appropriate houses,
in the nursery gardens in the neighborhood of London,
particularly at Hackney, Yauxhall, and Clapton.

Conservatory P^anfs.— These are composed of a se-
lection from the numerous inmates of the green-house.
They should be naturally of an elegant form, capable
in general of sustaining themselves without the support
of stakes, and somewhat hardy in their constitution.
Many of the Australian plants, particularly the Acacias
and Banksias, are well adapted for this purpose. The
ascending Proteas of the Cape, Clethra arbora of Ma-
deira, and many others of a similar habit, may likewise
take their place in this department. To these may be
added a few of the hardier Heaths and Camellias, to-
gether with the broad-leaved Myrtle, double-flowering
Pomegranate, Camphor-laurel, Tea-tree, and some -of

STOVE PLANTS. 307

the varieties of the magnificent Rhododendron arbx)-
reum. Any wall in the interior of the house may be
furnished with a trellis, and covered with such climbing
2:)lants as Lpnicera Japonica^ Maurandia semperflorens,
and Barclayana, and the trailing Pelargoniums. In the
management of the conservatory, abundant air should
be admitted, and care should be taken not to allow
the plants' to become draivn, or too tall and spindle-
formed by overcrowding. They should be so pruned
as to keep them comparatively short and bushy ; but
after all pains have been taken, the time at length ar-
rives when they either disfigure themselves by pressing
against the. roof-glass, or must submit to the no less
distorting process of a violent amputation. To meet
such exigencies, it is recommended that, wherever there
is also a green-house, a few plants should be kept in
training for the conservatory, and substituted in the
room of any that, from excess of growth, become un-
manageable. After all, the* fourth, fifth, and sixth
summers of the conservatory w^ill always be the finest;
and when a longer series of years have gone by, and
the plants have outgrown the space allotted to them,
perhaps the best thing that can be done is to change
the whole interior of the house, plants, earth, and all.
If this operation be anticipated, and for a year or two
prepared for, sufiiciently large plants may be had in
readiness, and the appearance of a well-furnished house
be again pretty well attained in a single season. It is
scarcely necessary to add, that the neatness which is
so desirable everywhere in the flawer garden is abso-
lutely indispensable in the .conservatory.

Stove Plants. — There are many beautiful plants, na-
tives of tropical regions, whi-ch arc cultivated in our

308 FLOWER GARDEN.

stoves, but wliich, owing to the high temperature they
require, T?an he only occasionally visited with pleasure.
This may account for the fact that ornamental plant-
stoves are seldom found but in first-rate gardens, even
where the price of fuel is inconsiderable. It is unneces-
sary to be minute respecting the culture of dry-stove
plants, it being precisely that of green-house plants,
differing only in the increased degree of heat. Many
dry-stove plants are succulent, such as those belonging
to the genera Cactus, Aloe, and Mesembryanthemum.
These require rather an arid soil, composed of a little
light loum mixed with lime-rubbish or shivers. One of
the most successful growers of the cactus tribe was the
late Mr. Walter Henderson at Woodhall. The compost
which he employed consisted of 1 part rotted'dang, 1
rotted leaves, 1 heath mould, 1 J loam, and 1 coarse sand,
all well mixed together; and the pot was nearly one-
third filled with shreds, so as to form an effectual drain.
Some of the species, such as Cactus speciosus and Ce-
reus flagelliformis, are improved, and made to flower
more freely, by being kept growing vigorously in an
airy green-house during the surtimer months. The hark-
stove plants thrive best in a confined moist atmosphere,
possessing something of the tepid vapor peculiar to the
equatorial climes. In order to furnish bottom-heat, a
bark pit is prepared, into which the pots or tubs are
sunk ; and the air is heated by flues, by steam, or, what
is better, by a circulation of hot water. Along the front
glass, and on the back wall, are shelves, on which pots
may be arranged, according as the plants require light
or shade. On the front shelves are occasionally placed
shallow troughs filled with sphagnum, and fragments
of peat-moss or decayed wood, for the reception of air

^TOVE PLANTS. 809

plants and other epiphytes. Small cisterns, too, are in-
troduced to contain tender aqua^tics. Along the rafters
some of the more elegant species of Passiflora, such as
P. quadrangularis, may be trained; and through the
branchgs of some of the woody plants, Cuscuta Chilensis,
Tropgeolum tricolorum and Jarrattii, and other tended
climbers, may be allowed to twine themselves. In the
pit may be plunged some of the Palms, those princes of
plants, particularly the Chinese Plaintain, Musa Caven-
dishii, which is of comparatively humble growth, and
often yields its fruit when not exceeding six feet in
height. In short, there is no end of those numerous
tribes, " the potent sons of moisture and of heat," with
"which the teeming regions of the equator are filled; and
no suite of stoves in this country, however extensive, can
come up to the wishes of the botanist. The manage-
ment of this department of floriculture is laborious and
trying to the constitution of the operative gardener.
A strong heat both in the bark-bed and in the atmo-
sphere of the house must be maintained; the air must
be kept charged with vapor, and the plants require
frequent shifting and repotting. For more detailed in-
formation as to the management of particular stove
plants, we may again refer to Gushing, who, in his
Exotic Gardener^ has treated this subject with a skill
and fulness that liave not been surpassed by any of his
successors.

To the precautions recommended for protecting
plants placed under glass during the American winter,
it is necessary to a^dd that much greater care is requi-
site in guarding against the effects of extreme cold
and sudden variations on the western than on the east-
ern side of the Atlantic. The thermometer in the
27

310 FLOWER GARDEN.

green-house should never be allowed to descend below
forty degrees in the absence of the sun ; and even at
that temperature plants will, in very clear cold weather,
often part with so much of their warmth through radi-
ation as to be nipped by frost. But, in closing out the
cold external air, the vital importance of ventilation to
plants must not be forgotten, and fresh air should be
cautiously admitted on all occasions. When the tem-
perature is high, plants require more watering than
when the thermometer is low. In very cold spells,
much moisture invites frost. Whenever the weather is
sufficiently mild, the plants should be allowed the full
benefit of the open air.

Tropical Orehidacese. — Till within the last few years,
the cultivation of epidendrous plants was deemed too
difficult to be attempted in private establishments, and
was resigned to Royal Gardens. A great revolution in
this respect has since taken place ; epiphytes being now
extensively cultivated. The collection of such plants
in the principal nursery gardens near London is vast,
particularly at those of Loddiges, Hackney — Rollisons,
Tooting — Knight, Chelsea — and Low, Clapton. Some
amateur cultivators eminently excel in them ; such as
the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth, where Mr.
Paxton presides; Earl Fitzwilliam at Wentworth, where
Mr. Cooper is gardener; Mr. Bateman at Knypersley,
and Mr. Bucker at Wandsworth. More than 1000
species of epiphytes are now in cultivation. They are
all tropical productions, and, of course, need stove-heat
in this country; but those from- the East Indies require
a higher temperature and more humid atmosphere than
those from South America. " In Scotland, the cultiva-
tion of tropical epiphytes is carried to great perfection

TROPICAL ORCIIIDACE^. 811

at the Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh and Glasgow,
and also at the Experimental Garden of the Caledonian
Horticultural Society, Edinburgh; and the practices
followed in these establishments are here recommended.
In some private gardens, likewise, such epiphytes are
grown with great success; particularly at Dalkeith
Park, under Mr. Mackintosh, and Bothwell Castle,
under Mr. Turnbull. It has now been fully ascertained
by extensive experience, that their cultivation is not
nearly so difficult as was formerly supposed. When
pots or shallow pans are used, they should be well fur-
nished at bottom with shivers, or broken bricks or tiles,
to drain off superfluous moisture, and then filled up with
oblong pieces of spongy peat, between t\yo and three
inches in length, and more than an inch in breadth and
depth. Chips of rotten sticks, and tufts of decayed
hypnum or sphagnum, and the mixture of fibrous roots
which may be grubbed up in any wood having a light
or sandy soil, may often be used with advantage, for
the growth of Dendrobiums, and for all wicker baskets
suspended by wires from the rafters, where peat would
be apt to get too dry and hard. Some kinds are the
better for being fostered with the bottom-heat of a tan-
bed. The roots are generally thrown out near the sur-
face: a principal point in the culture consists in en-
couraging the development of these; the compost of
peat and other substances, should therefore be raised
several inches above the margin of the pot, so that the
superficial roots may have free scope. It is not neces-
sary that the peat used should he dried; in general it
is found to answer best when it is rather soft and spongy.
When the peat is dry, it is difficult to get wooden-pegs
to penetrate without breaking the peat, particularly for

312 FLOWER GARDEN.

Stanhopeas, or plants requiring to be piled high up.
The plants may be piled on the peat from six to eight-
een inches, according to the size of the plant, and of
the pot used. Stanhopeas are found to flower -best
when planted on rough peat, a considerable height
above the edge of the pots or flats used, so as to allow
the flowers to come out from the crevices of the peat.
They are also cultivated successfully in baskets of cop-
per-wire, made with the work very open, and filled with
sphagnum moss. The former method is particularly
adapted for a warm, dry atmosphere ; and the latter
for a warm, moist atmosphere. In wire-baskets, like-
wise, amongst rough peat, the various species of Epi-
phyllum, with Drymonia punctata and Brugmansia flori-
bunda, may be successfully. cultivated.

The following epiphytes are easily cultivated in a
vinery or a pine-pit, in pots filled with pieces of peat :
Catasetum tridentatum, floribundum ; Brassia maculata ;
Oncidium flexuosum, pulvinatum; Gongora atro-pur-
purea ; Cattleya intermedia, Forbesii, labiata, crispa ;
Zygopetalon Mackayi ; Stanhopea insignis, grandiflora,
oculata, tigrina, Devoniana ; Crytopodium Andersonii ;
Acropera Loddigesii. The following kinds are well
adapted for being placed in pots filled with hypnum or
sphagnum, and suspended from the rafters ; Dendro-
bium Pierardi, cucullatum, speciosum; Oncidium bifo-
lium,papilio, junceum; Fernandesia elegans; Aeranthes
grandiflora ; Vanda teres, multiflora ; Broughtonia san-
guinea ; Rodriguesia secunda. Some of the larger spe-
cies grow best in rough, black peat-soil, and flower
freely under ordinary treatment in a stove ; such as
Phajus maculatus ; Calanthe veratrifolia ; Bletia macu-
lata ; Peristeria elata; Cymbidium siense, aloefolium,

FORCING GARDEN. 813

ensifolium. Cypripedium insigne, and venustum. The
Vanilla planifolia may be cultivated in the same
way ; and it has been found, that if the retinaculum
be carefully removed from the top of the stigma, and
the anther turned down to the stigma, the very fragrant
fruit of this plant may be produced in our stoves.

A principal object should be to imitate, in some mea-
sure, the native climate of these orchidacese; to give
them a .dry or hot season, a rainy or watering period,
and a cold or winter season. Generally speaking, the
dry season may include May, June, and July ; the wa-
tering period, August, September, and October; and
the cold season the rest of the year.

The propagation of. these epiphytes is not in general
difficult. Many sorts form pseudo-bulbs, by means of
which they are readily multiplied. In others, if the rhi-
zoma or root-stock be divided, with a piece of- stem ad-
hering, there is little risk of failure. These plants
come into flower at all seasons of the year. The blos-
soms of many are beautiful, and of the most curious
structure ; and some are fragrant.

THE FORCING GARDEN

is only a department, but an important one, of the
Fruit Garden. ~ The term forcing is strictly applicable
only to those artificial processes by which vegetation is
in a considerable degree accelerated ; but in common
language it has been applied to all those operations in
which glazed frames or houses are concerned, though
they may be employed merely in aiding the common
progress of nature, or in counteracting the great vicis-

*27

314 FORCING GARDEN.

situdes of our climate. For the sake of convenience,
we shall adopt the term in its broadest acceptation.
After some preliminary observations, we shall first treat
of the structures, and then of the fruits and vegetables
which are cultivated in them.

The principal object of hot-houses, and other struc-
tures of a similar nature, is to produce an artificial
temperature and humidity of the atmosphere, which
shall resemble, as nearly as possible., the climate in
which the fruits or plants naturally flourish. A com-
mand of heat is obviously a primary requisite. A re-
gulated admission of air, and the presence of a certain
degree of moisture, are, in the next place, necessary.
Lastly, without the free access of light, plants become
blanched, or are destroyed by the moisture which they
generate. These, then, are the conditions which limit
the form of hot-houses ; when these are attained, any
form may be adopted which invention can devise, or
wealth execute ; but every true lover of the art will
aim at simplicity, and will deprecate useless expendi-
ture, so often exhibited in this department, as injurious
to the character as well as to the progress of horticul-
ture.

Artificial Heat. — Forcing-houses are heated in various
ways ; by means o^ flues conveying smoke and heated
air ; by 'pipes conducting steam or hot water; by so
constructing the glazed house as to increase the calo-
rific action of the sun's rays ; and sometimes by the
heat generated in the course of the fermentation of ve-
getable substances.

Flues are generally constructed of common brick,
though occasionally fire-brick is employed in the nech^
or that part of the flue immediately adjoining the fur-

ARTIFICIAL HEAT. 315

nace. The bricks in the side walls are placed on their
edges, and the top covering is of tile an inch and a half
in thickness. In districts where sandstone flag abounds,
the covers are often formed of that material. Horti-
cultural writers have recommended that flues should
be about eighteen inches deep, and of nearly equal
breadth ; but to obtain the greatest quantity of heat, it
clearly appears, from the experiments of Mr. Stevenson
{Cal. Hort. Mem., i. 143), that, where possible, the
breadth should be nearly double the depth. It is ad-
vantageous to detach flues as much as possible from the
walls of the building which encloses them, in order that
the heat may be communicated to the air only. For-
merly they were often built, sometimes one above an-
other, with only one side exposed, a practice which, as
it occasioned great waste of heat from conduction, has
been generally abandoned. When it is necessary to
lead one flue above another, or to make it return upon
itself, spaces should be left between them, to allow the
free passage of caloric from every side.

AYith a view to economy' qf fuel, can-flues and cast-
iron cylinders have been proposed, and occasionally
adopted, but their use has not hitherto become general.
The arrangement of the flues must depeUd upon the
nature of the house ; it may, however, be remarked
generally, that, as heated air has a tendency to ascend,
they should be placed as near as can conveniently be
done to the front of the house, where, of course, the
sloping roof is lowest. It is likewise important that
the flue should be introduced, and exert its greatest
influence, at that part of the structure which is most
exposed to any refrigerating cause.

The furnace is most properly situate behind the house.

316 FORCING GARDEN.

and is generally covered by a shed. For the most
part it is constructed so that the upper part of its arch
shall be on a level with the top of the flue ; but where
a considerable heat is required, as in pine-apple stoves,
it is found preferable to sink the furnace, in order to
produce a nech or rise of about a foot and a half in
height, which moderates the intensity of the heat on its
first entrance, and, by increasing the draught, causes
the fire to burn freely. The size of the furnace must be
regulated by the kind of fuel employed. Where coke
or charcoal is used, it may be about eighteen inches
square ; but where small coal, turf, or peat is to be
burned, it should be two feet, or even two and a half,
square, by two feet in height. A la'rge furnace insures
the long continuance of the fire, a fact which in practice
has received too little attention. To resist the effects
of heat, the interior -should be lined with- fire-brick.
The roof should be strongly arched^ The door may be
about a foot square, and when it is double,^ as it ought
always to be, the outer half should ha a little larger
than the inner. The grate is of- the same breadth as
the door, and may extend'about two-thirds of the length
of the furnace. The ash-pit is equally wide, and from
fifteen to eighteen inches deep ; it is furnished with a
ventilator in the door to regulate the admission of air.
In practice the furnace, and especially the ash-pit,
should be kept clear of ashes ; as by this mean?, coals
of an inferior quality may be burnt with ease.

The following figure (Fig. 22) represents a longitudinal
section of the common garden furnace. It is surrounded
by a double wall to prevent the escape of heat.

Mr.. Witty has invented a furnace, which is pos-
sessed of valuable qualities. A vertical section of it

ARTIFICIAL HEAT.

Fiff. 22.

317

is given in Fig. 23. The fuel is supplied bj the door
at a, and is pressed down the inclined plane toward^
the grate c, hj an apparatus placed at the head of
it; but this method, being complicated, has given way

Fig. 23.

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-^ —

-•--ijii__.

to several modifications, in which the door a has been
found the most useful, the fuel being pressed forward
by the common tools used for feeding furnaces : h is
the door for regulating the fuel on the grate c. In
its progress, the whole surface of the coal along the
inclined plane is constantly kept in a state of inflam-
mation, the flame having naturally a tendency to burn
upwards. In this way, the greater part of the fresh

318 FORGING GARDEN.

coal is carbonized, that is, the gas is separated from it
and inflamed, leaving onlj coke. . The strong combus-
tion of the coke at the grate produces heat enough to
carbonize the coal^ and air enough to inflame the gas.
This furnace, therefore, not only consumes most of the
smoke, but eifects a considerable saving of fuel.

Steam. — Of late years steam has been applied with
success to the production of an artificial climate in
glazed houses. It is more genial than fire-heat from
flues, being less contaminated, and more equable and
pliant in its distribution. In steam hot-houses, the plants
can scarcely ever be liable to suffer from scorching
heat ; the air continues pure and untainted, and per-
sons visiting the house are much less liable to be an-
noyed by the smell of smoke and soot. It is neater in
all its arrangements within doors and also without, for
it precludes the necessity of more thaji one furnace, and
one chimney-top, and in a great measure removes the
unseemliness of the heaps of coals and ashes with which
common furnaces are usually surrounded. In districts
where coals are dear, the saving of fuel is an object ;
and it has been found that seven bushels of coals go as
far in keeping up steam heat as ten bushels do in main-
taining an equal temperature in the ordinary way. By
merely opening a valvcj the house may at any time be
effectually steamed^ that is, filled with the steam or va-
por, and the warm moisture thus applied to the plants
is observed to contribute remarkably to their health
and vigor. To counterbalance these advantages, we
are not aware of any defects, except such' as may arise
from the greater complexity of the apparatus, or at
least its liability to disrepair and accident. -

Steam is generated in a cast or wrought iron boiler,

STEAM. 319

of an oblong form, furnished T\-itli safety-valves, and
heated by a smoke-consummg furnace. As in the com-
mon steam-engine^ the boiler is supplied from a cistern
above, and is made to regulate itself by a simple con-
trivance. In the feed-hfiad is a valve, which is opened
by the sinking of a float, which descends in proportion
as the water is dissipated in steam ; and, being balanced
by a weight, whenever a sufficient quantity of water is
admitted, rises again, and shuts the valv-e. As steam
may be conveyed, without materially impairing its calo-
rific powers, to the distance of several thousand feet,
one boiler is sufficient for heating all the glazed houses
which are ever erected together ; but a second is gene-
rally kept in readiness, to act as an auxiliary in case of
accident, or in very severe weather. Steam is con-
ducted from the boiler in a single main pipe, or in two
parallel pipes, which, according to Mr. Tredgold, may
be only one inch in bore. The divarications of the
pipes into particular houses are arranged somewhat in
the manner of flues, and, indeed, are sometimes placed
within these, or on them, when they already exist.
These interior pipes are from three to six inches in dia-
meter, in order to afford a greater radiating surface,
and are supplied with sets of valves, to admit, regulate,
or exclude the heated vapor, according to circum-
stances.

The mos| perfect and extensive samples of steam ap-
paratus exiist at Syon House, the princely seat of the
Duke of Northumberland, near Brentford, and in the
nursery garden of Messrs. Loddiges at Hackney. At
the latter place, glazed houses, to the extent of almost
a thousand feet in length, and forming three sides of a
square, are heated solely by steam from one boiler.

320

FORCING GARDEN.

The boiler is of an oblong shape, measuring eleven feet
by four, and is formed of malleable iron. In certain
narrow houses intended by Messrs. Loddiges for green-
house plants, a single steam-pipe is found sufficient. In
other houses of considerable height and breadth, or
where a higher temperature is required, as in the palm-
house, the steam-flue is made to describe two or three
turns.

Water, contained in large vessels or pipes, is some-
times heated by steam, and so made the medium of
conveying caloric to the atmosphere of glazed houses.
The annexed figure represents an example of this ar-

Fig. 24.

rangement. In the instance here given, a small steam-
tube, one inch in diameter, enters a water-pipe eight
inches in diameter, and twenty-eight feet long, wholly
within the forcing-house ; it passes into the large pipe
at the centre, and after traversing its whole length and
returning, it issues out immediately below the point at
which it entered. It then forms a siphon, by which the
condensed water is conveyed away. A more detailed
description may be found in the London Sorticultural
Transactions^ vol. iii.

Steam is sometimes employed to furnish bottom
heat. In the garden of Mr. Sturge, near Bath, a shal-
low cistern of water is heated by a steam-pipe, in the

STEAM.

321

manner exhibited in the two following figures. The
cistern is covered with pavement, over which is a bed
of small stones, then ashes or sand, into which the pots
containing plants are to be plunged.

Fi- 25.

^^w^=^^ds^^m

Steam has also been employed to heat flues. The fol-
lowing figure represents a side view and section of a flue
filled with small stones or broken bricks, and heated

Fig. 26.

by means of a small steam-pipe passing along the lower
part of the flue. Along the upper side of this pipe arc
a number of small holes, becoming more frequent to-
wards the farther end, to allow the escape of steam:
there are, besides, a few perforations in the under side
to clear away condensed water. The flue has a slight

322

FORCING GARDEN.

inclination to that end of the house- from Avhich the
water can he more easily drained.

Similar expedie;its were long ago employed, in the
heating of forcing-pits, by the late Mr. John Hay, of
Edinburgh, a garden architect of great judgment and
experience. Fig. 2T represents a recent variety of

Fi<<. 27.

this mode of supplying surface and bottom heat, by
discharging steam into flues and chambers filled with
stones. The steam is admitted by small pipes run-
ning along the central pit, in channels about four
inches deep, and of the same width. These channels
are crossed by others at right angles ; and at the
points of intersection the steam is permitted to escape
by two small holes, one on each side of the pipe. The
pits must have a water-tight paved bottom, with a de-
clivity of one inch in ten feet. The sides and covers of
the channels are loosely jointed, and are permeable by
the ste'am. Stop-cocks are attached to the pipes, so

HOT WATER.

323

tha.t the supply of vapor can be adjusted. Another
mode of adapting steam to the production of bottom
heat may be seen in Mr. Macmurtrie's Pine-Pit, to be
afterwards described.

Sot Water, — More recently the circulation of hot
water in iron pipes or vessels has been ^successfully em-
2:)loyed in producing artificial warmth. The tempera-
ture derived from this source has all the properties of
steam-heat, with the following additional advantages :
it is more steady, being less affected by changes of
temperature in the open air than in houses heated by
fire-flues, or even by steam-pipes ; it is not liable to
interruption by the bursting of vessels, and it is more
lasting, as water does not cool so rapidly as aqueous
vapori

The following explanation of the principle of the hot-
water apparatus is given by the late Mr. Tredgold, in
an excellent paper in the Lond, Hort. Trails.^ vol. vii.
" We may select the simple case of two vessels placed

Fig. 28.

wm,k.M..mmm^m

on a horizontal plane, with two pipes to connect them ;
the vessels being open at top, and the one pipe connect-
ing the lower parts of the vessels, and the other the
upper parts. If the vessels and pipes be filled with

324

FORCING GARDEN.

water, and heat be applied to the vessel A, the effect of
heat will be to expand the water in the vessel A ; and
its surface will, in consequence, rise to a higher level,
a a, the former general level being h h. The density
of the fluid in the vessel A will also decrease, in con-
sequence of its expansion ; but as soon as the column,
c d, of fluid above the centre of the upi^er pij^e is of
greater weight than the column, / e, above that centre,
motion will commence along the upper pipe from A to
B, and the change this motion produces in the equili-
brium of the fluid will cause a corre^onding motion in
the lower pipe from B to A ; and, in short, the motion
will obviously continue till the temperature be nearly
the same in both vessels ; or if water be made to boil
in A, it may also be boiling hot in B, because ebullition
in A will assist the motion.''

The figure referred to in the preceding quotation, re^
presenting the common tank boiler surrounded by a flue,
with a cistern at the extremity of the pipes, exhibits the
form in which the apparatus was first erected ; but as in

Fig. 29.

this arrangement the process of heating was very slow,
many changes have been made ; the cistern has gene-

HOT WATER.

325

rally been abandoned, and boilers of various configura-
tions have been adopted. Fig. 29 is a langitudinal
section, and the following is a transverse section of a

flued tank boiler, in which the surface exposed to the
heat being increased, the effect required is accelerated,
and at the same time a considerable saving of fuel is
effected.

, The conical boiler, invented by John Rogers, Esquire,
of SeVenoak^, Kent, is formed of two truncated con-
centric ones, with a space of two or three inches be-
tween them for the water, the furnace being in the inner
cone, and the' fuel supplied ft"om the top.

Mr. Rogers' boiler was originally surrounded with
brick-work, but several modifications and improvements
of it have -been introduced; in some cases it has been
fitted up in a sheet-iron case, like Arnot's stove. In
the following figure, the boiler is placed in a cast-iron
stand, with ground circular furnace, and register ash-
pit doors — a being the furnace, h the boiler, c flow and
returning pipes, d the furnace door, c smoke-pipe to
the vent, / ash-pit, g. branders, li hole for cleaning the
furnace. Tl\e best kinds of fuel for this furnace are

*28

326

FORCING GARDEN.

coke, gas-cinders, and anthracite ; but common coal
which does not cake very much has been found to be

Fiii. 31.

well adapted for the purpose, as it is soon formed into
coke.

The following is the rationale of the process of the
heating of this boiler, as given by Mr. Rogers in the
volume of the Gardener'' s Magazine for 1840 : —

" As fuel cannot be consumed without air, if a fur-
nace be constructed of considerable depth, and filled
with fuel, and air be admitted only at the bottom, that
fuel alone is consumed which lies immediately on the
bars, and first receives the draught of air. The fuel
above, provided it transmits the air, becomes red-hot,
or nearly so, but does not consume until that below it
is destroyed. In this manner, one of these conical fur-
naces being lighted and filled with fuel, that portion in
the uppei^part of the furnace, which cannot burn, ab-
sorbs the heat of the burning fuel below, and radiates
or transmits it to the water on every side. So perfect
is this absorption of heat that for several hours after
the furnace has been filled up with cinders, though
there may be a fierce fire below, little or no heat escapes

HOT WATER.

327

bj the chimney — the whole being taken up by the sur-
rounding water. The economy, therefore, of fuel in
such an apparatus is very great. It is evident that
excess of draught must be carefully guarded against,
so much only being allowed as will consume the fuel
steadily, which is easily learned by experience. The
necessity, also, of keeping the aperture in front close,
so that air enters the furnace only through the ash-pit,
is hence evident. The water (as may be observed in
Fig. 31) is in close and immediate contact with the
red-hot fuel on all sides, no black smoking coals inter-
vening, as in most kinds of boilers ; hence the great
power in proportion to size."

The economy of fuel in these boilers is not their
principal advantage ; but their great recommendation is
a long-continued and steady heat. When properly
managed, they may be depended on for preserving the

Fiff. 32.

liciit for from fifteen to twenty hours. They have been
successfully applied to all descriptions of hot-houses,

328 FORCING GARDEN.

but for pits they are eminently useful, from the small
space they occupy.; and when fired with coke, gas-
cinders, or anthracite, they give off very little smoke.

It is unnecessary to describe all the numerous modi-
fications of this apparatus ; but it may be proper to
direct the attention of the reader to the close boiler
represented in Fig. 32, in which is shown how the
circulation may be conducted over a door or other ob-
stacle. In this case the upper pipe must not ascend
and descend twice : air-tubes ought also to be placed in
the boiler, and on the highest part of the pipes ; and
the whole must be made considerably stronger than on
common occasions. The annexed figure :will give an
idea of an isometrical elevation of a hot-water appara-

Fis. 33.

tus for a vinei-y thirty feet long by eleven wide. A is
the boiler, as in the figure on p. 324 ; B the upper or
delivering pipe ; C the principal part of the upper pipe,
of a flat form, presenting a greater radiating surface,
in proportion to the quanity of heat; D the descending
limb ; E the returning pipe, of a cylindrical form.

Mr. Fowler has employed the siphon as a part of the
'hot-water apparatus; and in his tract on the Thermo-

HOT. WATER.

329

34.

siplion, as he calls it, has shown how its various modifi-
cations may be employed in warming hot walls, as well
as in heating glazed houses. The following statement
of the principle is given in the Gfardener's Magazine,
vol. V. " Any one may prove that hot water will cir-
culate in a siphon, by taking a piece of lead pipe, say
of half an inch bore, and four or five feet long, bend-
ing it like a siphon, but one leg a good deal more bent
than the other, in order to give the descending water
time and space for giving out its heat ; and then, filling
this tube with water, and placing one hand on each end
to retain it full, immerse the extremities in a pot of water
over a fire, as represented in the annexed
diagram. Supposing the water of a uni-
form temperature in both legs of the siphon,
no circulation would take place; but suppos-
ing it to cool sooner in the long leg a than
in the short leg 5, then the equilibrium would
be destroyed, and the water in the long leg
a would descend, and draw up water through
the short leg b; and this circulation would
continue as long as the water c was main-
tained at a temperature above that of the surrounding
atmosphere."

Mr. Kewley's adaptation of the siphon is one of the
simplest and most efficient that has been proposed. In
Fig. 35, ace, are the two legs of a siphon, through the
upper of which the heated water ascends, and by the
lower descends. Immediately over the descending bend,
a pipe connected with an air-pump is inserted, in order
to fill the pipes, or remove the air which collects in the
superior limb. Instead of the air-pump, a funnel with
air-tight valves is sometimes employed. This mode of

330

FORCIFG GARDEN.

Fit(. 35.

tf— 1

^

circulation lias been adopted in some of tlie principal
nursery gardens near London.

Mr. Charles H. J. Smith, garden architect, in a com-
munication to the Scottish Horticultural Society, has
clearly shown that the system of heating by the circula-
tion of hot water in metallic pipes is easily applicable,
not only to any glazed house constructed with flues, but
to any select portion of an existing fruit-wall, although
already clothed with peach, vine, or fig-trees. In the
last case, a small furnace and boiler are, of course, placed
at the back of the wall ; the expanding water rises to a
cistern near the top of thewall; horizontal pipes, mak-
ing three or four turns, are inserted into the south front
of the wall (which is an easy operation, as the w^all is
usually faced with brick); and through these the water
circulates, to the groat increase. of the temperature of
the air surrounding the tree. The operation should be
accomplished late in the autumn ; the tree being care-
fully unnailed, bent forward, and secured from injury
or breaking, and as carefully replaced.

Mr. A. Perkins has constructed an apparatus of small
tubes hermetically sealed, in wdiich water circulates, of
a temperature varying from 300° to 400° Fahrenheit.
The contrivance is very ingenious, and has been pretty
extensively employed at London and Edinburgh, in
heating public offices and warerooms; but as the opi-

. HOT WATER. 331

nions of horticulturists respecting its merits, as appli-
cable to the forcing garden, are still divided, and as it
has not as yet stood the test of much experience, it may
be sufficient to give it this cursory notice. For further
information, however, we may refer to the G-ardeners
3Iagazme, vols. viii. and ix.

Mr. Corbett, foreman at Poptey's nursery garden,
Plymouth, introduced a mode of employing hot water as
a means of heating. Erom a common boiler proceeds an
upright tube, and this tube leads to a continued series of
open gutters. Heat being applied to the boiler, the water
jises in the tube and flows forward in the gutters, giving
out moisture in proportion to the degree of heat. As
the water cools or becomes more dense or heavy, it
gradually falls back 'to the bottom of the boiler.

Mr. Rendle, of Union Road Nursery, Plymouth, has
also introduced a mode of heating, in which he employs
tanks instead of pipes, or gutters, for both surface and
bottom heat. These tanks are formed of wood, brick,
stone, or cast-iron. Wheu formed of wood, they re-
quire to be made of good sound plank, not less than
two inches thick, properly jointed, and are usually
covered with slates. If they are formed of stone or
brick, the insides require a thick coating of Roman
cement, and for covers, stone, slate, or brick- pavement
is employed. The cast iron tanks have corners of the
same materials.

When only ane' tank is fitted up in a house or pit, a
division is made along the centre, leaving an opening at
the end farthest from the boiler, for the water to flow
through, tlie hot water or flow pipe from the boiler
being fixed to the end of the tank on one sido of the
division, and the cold water or return pipe to the boiler

332 FORCING GARDEN.

to the end, on the opposite side of the division. When
two tanks are used, they are joined to the flow and re-
turn pipes respectively, and united at the extreme ends.
In pits, the tanks may be carried round the sides and
ends of the pit, with -a division between the flow and
return pipes.

The principal advantage of the application of this
mode of heating consists in the production of bottom
heat. Proper provision ought, however, to be made for
preventing more of the steam or vapor rising from the
hot water (into the house) than what is requisite ; for,
if this precaution be not adopted, there will be too much
damp in the winter season for the proper growth or pre-
servation of the plants.*

To mention the rays of the sun amongst the sources of
artificial heat may excite a smile ; yet it happens that,
from the stagnation of air, the reflection of light from
walls, and other circumstances, they often produce a
very considerable proportion of the increased tempera-
ture of a hot-house. This species of heat, however, is

■^ It will be seen that Mr. Rendle's mode of heating is merely
an extension of that of Mr. Corbett, described above ; and as some
interest was excited by Mr. Corbett^s claim to originality in his
mode of heating, it may be proper to state that his patent was seal-
ed in August, 1838, while the same mode, as described at page 362,
was in operation in the gardens at Hopetoun House in October,
1832, two years before the publication of this treatise in the Ency-
clopaedia Britannica. In the Gardener's Magazine for 1830, a de-
scription is given of a house fitted up in the nursery of Mr. Knight,
King's Koad, Chelsea, by Mr. George Jones, of Birmingham, with
cast iron troughs and movable covers, from which account Mr.
Smith believes it was that he made the application of the troughs
in the pits he designed, as described at page 3C3 of the present
treatise.

HEATING. 333

materially affected by the admission of the air necessary
to the growth and healthy state of the plants.' AYe are
not aware of its having been employed as a primary
'.sourcp of heat, except in the case of Dr. Anderson's pa-
tent hot-house, in which heated air was kept, bottled
up, as it were, in separate chambers ; an arrangement
too irregular and unmanageable to be of much utility
in our variable climate.

Vegetable substances in a state of fermentation
evolve a considerable quantity of caloric, and are much
employed to produce bottom heat in hotbeds, pine-ap-
ple, or melon pit^. In a few instances they have been
applied to warm the atmosphere of vineries and peach-
houses, in which, however, they have been found to be
but an indifferent substitute for the other means already
explained.

In the management of artificial heat, a considerable
degree of caution is required. All the operations of
nature are gradual ; and in forcing, it is well to follow
these as the safest examples. The .judicious gardener
will therefore apply his heat* very gradually at first ;
he will increase it by degrees for several weeks, and, in
particular, he will guard against any sudden decrease of
warmth, as nothing is more> necessary to success than
that the course of vegetation be continued uninterrupt-
edly through foliation, inflorescence, and fructification.
He will cause the temperature to increase by day and
decrease by night, to rise in summer and fall in w^inter.
He will, in short, imitate, as much as possible, the na-
tural and varying 'influence of the sun.

It IS scarcely necessary to say that a Fahrenheit
thermometer is. an indispensable instrument to the gar-
dener, not only in the forcing-house, but in every
29

X

334 FORCING GARDEN.

department. Six's Registering Thermometer is very-
convenient for pointing out the extreme temperatures
during night or day.

The admission of Air. — The .deteriorating influence
which all living plants are supposed to exert on the-
atmosphere must operate with tenfold force in, a glazed
house, where the proportion of air to vegetable sub-
stance is infinitely smaller than under the open sky, and
where the corrective agitations of the wind, and the
changes of temperature, are much less perceptibly felt.
The respiration of plants, and the exhalations of putre-
scent vegetables, require a constant circulation of the
aeriaL fluid, and this is maintained by- means of mov-
able sashes, and ventilators in the roof of the house.
Of these, sashes seem preferable, as less apt to produce
currents of cold air, which are always injurious to
vegetation. It is, indeed,- a -disadvantage that, hy slid-
ing down over one another, they diminish the influx of
light. In winter, however, when light, from its scarcity
in our high latitude, is most valuable, they are seldom
drawn down to any extent; and, by having all the sashes
m.ovable, the gardener, with a little attention, may
correct in a great measure a-ny inequality in this'.re-
spfect. Sliding^ sashes require a depth of rafter >hich
greatly augments the, shade in oblique sunshine,' an
evil which cannot easily be obviated. With fixed roofs,
and more especially th6se which are curvilinear (to be
immediately described), numerous ventilators are the
only means by which a proper circulation of air can be
obtained. Some very intelligent gardeners prefer hav-
ing all the sloping sashes fixed, and ventilating chiefly
by means of large windows at each end of the house,
aided by small ventilators in front. '

ADMrSSiaN OF AIR AND* LIGHT. 66b

The quttntity of air to be admitted from time to time
must vary with tile seagon, the temperature required to
be kept up, and the kinds of plants cultivated. It should
be given and withdrawn by degrees, particularly in the
colder portions of the year. ' The sashes or ventilators,
for instance, may be partially open by eight A. M., top
air being given before front air ; full air may be em-
ployed about ten : a reduction should take place before
three P. M., and the whole should be closed betw<ien four
and five in the afternoon. In summer less caution is
necessary, as in many cases th« external air differs little
in temperature from that within the house. Most com-
monly air Is given only .during the day, arid is excluded
at night, with perhaps an increase of fire-heat. Judi-
cious horticulturists will sometimes reverse this process.
Knowing, for example, that in the West Indies chilly
and cold nights usually succeed the hottest days, they
will imitate, riature, by shutting up the house by day,
and throwing it open at night. This practice, however,
supported as it is by analogy, is subject to many limit-
ations, and can only be followed in our climate during
the summer and autumn inonths. It is useful, not-
withstanding, to remember the principle, though it ad-
mits only of partial application. ;

The admission of Light. — In addition to the heat
with which natural light is always accompanied, there
seems to be another property necessary to vegetation,
which, from some cause hitherto unexplained, is partly
deranged by its transmission through glass. The fact,
however," is evident, from the circumstance that plants
thrive better near glass than at a distance from it,
though the intensity of light is apparently undiminish-
ed. Hence practical gardeners are anxious to distribute

336 FORCING GARDEN. "

their finer plants in situations as close as possible to
the glazed roofs of hot-houses.

Connected with the admission, of light is the deter-
mination of the pitch or angle of elevation of the roofs
of glazed houses. It is evidently of advantage that the
rays of light should fall upon glass perpendicularly, as
loss by reflection is then a minimum, or indeed little or
nothing. The angle necesssary to obt-ain this result is
easily deducible from the sun's place in the ecliptic.
At the equinoxes, the sun's meridional height above the
horizon at any point of the earth's surface is equal to
the complement of the latitude of that place; and hence,
in order that the sun's rays may be perpendicular at
that period, it is only necessary to make the elevation-
of the roof of the hot-house equal to the latitude of the
place. The angle for any other season may be ob-
tained by subtracting from the latitude 'the declina-
tion of the sun, if at that time to the north of the
equator, or by adding it if to the south.* . These periods
are of course selected in accordance with the time at
which the direct rays are most required. Mr. Knight
proposes a gdneral elevation of 34° for the latitude of

^ The^ following is part of Bouguer's Table of Reflexions.
Of 1000 incident rays, when the .

Angle of incidence ig 75°

75-°

299 rays are reflected.

70

ooo

05

157

60

112

50

57

40

34

30

27

20

25

10

25

1

25

A]>MISSION OF LIGHT. 337

Londorij an angle which corresponds to the 20th of May
and 2Xst of July. This would afford four months, from
the 20th of April to the 21st of August, during which
the angle of incidence af mid-day would not at any
time amount to 9°, while the deviation at the winter
solstice would be 43-°, and the loss of light from reflex-
ion would be little more than -^\J . The Rev. Mr. Wil-
kinson-recommends 45°, a pitch extremely suitable for
exirly vineries and pine-stoves. In this ease, the mid-
summer deviation would be .19°, and the loss ^^^j, and
the midwinter deviation 30°, while the loss is nearly
the same. From these .statements,'howcvcr, and from
an inspection of tlie table - already referred to, it is
manifest that mueh- greater exactness has been sought
in this matter than is at all necessary. The reduction
of the opacity of the roof, arising from the breadth and
depth of rafters. and astragals, is of much greater con-
sequence. Accordingly, in some glazed houses, parti-
cularly those constructed of metallic substances, rafters
have been omitted altogether.; but this kind ef struc-
ture leads to consider^able difficulties ^n the a<;lmission
of air. ^. ' • -

We- have taken it for granted that the framework is
composed of wood ; and if prim^ l^ajtic tirtiber be pro-
cured, it will endure for nearly half a -century. But in
some cases rafters and sashes made entirely of metal,
generally either malleable or cast iron, have been em-
ployed ; and in others, a middle course has been steered
by adopting wooden mortices and metallic tenons. The
great objection to the use of metal for rafters and
sashes is, that it is too rapid a conductor. p£ caloric,
and too liable to contraction and expansion from the.
alternations of heat and cold ; the expansion tending to

29*

338 FOECING. GARDEN.

render the sashes immovablej and even to loosen the
walls ; and the contraction being apt to fracture the
glass,, and to produce openings between the sashes at
which hoar-frost may enter.

In order to secure the greatest possible influx of light,
scientific horticulturists have proposed hot-houses with
curvilinear roofs. It was remarked.by Sir Geptge Stuart
Mackenzie, to whom the merit of the proposal is pri-
marily due, that if we could find a form for a glass-roof,
such that the sun's rays should4)e perpendicuUr to some
2')art of it, not on two days, but during the whole year,
that form would be the, best. Such a figure is the sphere,
and he therefore proposes a quarter segment of a globe,
or semidome, the radius of which is iibout fifteen feet.
The frame for the glass-Ajork is formed of equal ribs of
hammered iron, fastened into an iron plate in the para-
pet wall, and fixed at top into an iron ring connected
with the back wall. There , are no rafters or sliding
sashes, J)ut air is admitted by ventilators in the parapet
and back walls-. .".

This form of hot-house roofs was warmly patronized
by the late Mr. Knight, who, however, was of opinion
^that the house proposed by Sir George Mackenzie was
too high, in proportion to its length and brejidth, and
therefore recommended a smaller section of a sphere,
with a greater radius. His dimensions are forty feet
long, fourteen wide in the centre, and, including the
front parapet, twelve feet fiigh. The late Mt Loudon,
who, it is. believed, was the firfft' that actually erected
hot-houses on this principle, proposed s.everal sub-
varieties of form. He describes [Enci/c. of G-ard.) the
acuminated semidome, the acuminated semiglohe, the
shniellipse, and the jjarallelogram ivith'curved roof and

CURVILINEAR ROOFS. 339

ends. With Mr. LoiKlon,,wG should certainly prefer the
last mentioned. A considerable number of curvilinear
houses have been erected in the southern part of the
island particularly as repositories for orriamefital plants,
such as in the Royal Gardens at Kew, Loddiges' nur-
series at Hackney, the London Horticultural Society's
Garden, the Manchester Botanic Garden, the Duke of
Northumbland's, at Syon House, and in Tarious other
private gardens.

As far as we are aware, no extensive experimental
investigation of the comparative- merits of curvilinear
houses has hitherto been made. A writer in the Grar-
deners Blagazhie (rol. ii.) states that he found it
necessary, during the'summer months, to shade his pine-
apples growing in such a house, from nine or ten o'clock
in the morning to three or four in the afternoon, in
order to prevent the- plants from assuming a rusty
tinge and unhealthy appearance. Another practical
gardener complains' (vol. v.) fhat ^' the circular roof
concentrated the swfn's rays so immoderately that the
tops of the grape-vines were scorched, €ven when the
doors and ventilators at the ba'ck were open.'' This,
he says, was always the case in summer; and in winter,
it was with, difficulty, and only with the assistance of
bast-mats, that he could keep out frost. With others,
however, the curvilinear form has given great satisfac-
tion. A considerable portion of the superior lightness
x)f the curvilinear housesis due tothe absence of rp^fters;
and as these may also be dispensed with in plain roofs,
the cfTect of these ought to be deducted in making a
comparison. Perhaps, when everything else is rightly
arranged, there is generally enough of light in common
houses. Scarcely any species of fruit, when cultivated

340 'forcing garden.

in the open air, is exposed during the whole day to the
action of the solar rays, but must unavoidably be shaded
at times by leaves and branches. It is difficult to sup-
pose that, in respect to illumination, there is any re-
markable deficiency in pits and glazed houses, in which
have been ripened pine-apples and clusters of grapes,
at least rivaling, if not surpassing, the produce of , the
most favored of their native climes. In. the facility
of admitting air, in the quantity and convenience of
trellises, and in other interior ^accommodations, it can-
not be disputed that the old forms ha^e rather the ad-
vantage.

It has already been said that hot-house .roofs of the
common kind are sometimes constructed without rafters
or movable sashes. A considerable increase of light
is thus obtained ; but this benefit is attended with an
almost insuperable defect, namely, the difficulty of pro-
ducing a free and equable circulation of air. It is in-
deed probable that the common or plain-roofed hot-
house will always continue the favorite form with prac;
tical gardeners. In it the rafters are arranged- at equal
distances, and are made of a deep and narrow form,
with their under edges rounded off. Nicol recommends
that they should be made two and one-fourtli inches
broad by ten inches deep. Perhaps they might be a
little broader and shallower with advantage. The size
of the sashes may depend on the magnitude of the house ;
their breadth, however, should range from three and a
half to four feet. Except in very large -houses, sashes
are always disposed in two tiers, the upper row sliding
down over the under one. Where there are ventilators
in the front wall or upright glass, the sashes in the up-
per tier alone require to be movable, and, for the sake

HOT-HOUS^ ROOFS. 341

of convenience, tliey should be made considerably
shorter than the others. They are furnished with cords,
pulleys, rollers, and weights, though the last, with no
very prudent regard to economy, are sometimes omitted.
Formerly, all hot-houses were constructed with upright
sashes in front. One of the most eminent garden ar-
chitects of the present day (Mr. Atkinson) has discon-
tinued the practice ;_ and,' except in ornamental struc-
tures, it is hard to say why it should not t)e laid aside
altogether : for while upright sashes certainly tend . to
weaken the fabric, and increase its expense, their utility
is at least problematical.

Glass is the transparent material universally employ^
ed, for it is at once a ready transmitter of the rays of
the sun, and a bad conductor of caloric, or it admits
light, and retains the heat generated by flues. That
some tint of blue or green would lessen the scorching
effects of the rays seems generally admitted; but the
precise tint has not yet been satisfactorily established.
Formerly the panes of glass employed were of large
size, but small panes are -found to be more economical,
being less liable to break, and more easily replaced. It
is believed that a pane seven inches- in breadth by six
in -length is the cheapest form in which good glass can
be obtained. In glazing, it is important to keep the
overlaps of the panes of small dimensions, perhaps from
oncrfourth to one-eighth lof an''inch in breadth. This
diminishes the breakage which arises from the expansion
attending; the freezing!; of water detained between the
laps by capilldry attraction. As a further preventive,
the interstices are sometimes filled with putty, and oc-
casionally with laps of lead or copper. This effects a
considerable saving of ^glass and of heat, but imposes on
the gardener the duty of increased attention in prevent-

342 FORCING GARDEN.

ing the stagnation of air. The framework of hot-houses
should be well coated with oil-paint ; white-lead of a
stone color being preferred.

In closing these preliminary remarks, it is proper to
observe that although the construction of a forcing-
house is always a matter of considerable importance, it
is not the only nor even the most important condition
necessary to insure success. Much care in manage-
ment, skill in pruning, and some knowledge of physio-
logy, must be possessed and applied, in order to obtain
abundant and regular crops of fine fruit.

The more minute details respecting the structure of
glazed houses, we shall notice along with the peculiar
culture required in each ; and we shall take them in
the following order : . The Vinery or Grape-house, the
Peach-house, the Cherry-house, the Fig-house, the
Pinery, the Orangery, and the Melonry. The green-
house and other botanical structures will come more
appropriately under review in treating of the Flower
Garden.

The Vinery. Structure.-r-The vinery is susceptible
of a great variety of form ; and, indeed, in this respect,
seems more pliable than any other forcing-house. Th^t
form, however, w^hich has been most commonly used, is
the plane roof with sliding sashes ; and such is the suc-
cess "with which it has been employed, and such its coa-
venience for every purpose, that it is not probable it
will soon be generally supplanted. The section of the
peach-house at page 350 will convey an idea of the
usual 'iconfiguration of the vinery. On the following
page, Fig. 36 represents a section and a, ground-plan of
a curvilinear vinery (having a mushroom-house behind),
heated by hot water.

a:iIE. VINERY.
Fi- 36.

343

a, Hot-water apparatus in the vinery.

b, Boiler for the vmeTj!

c, Boiler for the hot-water apparatus of the mushroom-house.

d, Pit beTow the passage of the mushroom-house for forcing

rhubarb, sea-kale, &c.
c, \'ontilators for the yinery.

344

FORCING GARDEN.

A vinery, with flues and two furnaces, is generally
fifty feet long, twelve or fourteen wide within, the height
of the back wall being ten or twelve feet. Where there
is only one surface, or where a hot-water apparatus is
employed, the length of the house should -not exceed
thirty-five ar forty feet. Small divisions are to be pre-
ferred; for w^here there is a considerable extent of glass,
the cultivator, by applying his fires to the difi^erent di-
visions in succession, can prolong the crop from May
to December. [£h.e parapet wall in front is commonly
arched, or built on lintels, supported by stone pillars ;
so that the vines, which are planted inside j;he house,
close by the parapet, may send. abroad their roots in
search of nutriment- Sometimes the vines are planted
without, and introduced into the house by slanting aper-
tures in the front wall; but the former method, w^here
possible, is the more eligible. , The trellis used for train-
ing is generally formed of wires drawn across the rafters,
at the distance of a foot from each other. Of late the
trellis has frequently been divided into portions of a
moderate, breadtb, placed vei'tically under the- rafter.
'This foTm is called the hanging trellis, ^nd is described
at length in the Lond. Hortic. Trans'.^ vol, vi. A sec-
tion of one variety has this appearajice.

Fi2. 37.

THE VINERY. 345

This form leaves the middle of the sash open to the
sun's rays, and allows the back wall to be covered with
bearing wood, a thing which, in. other circumstances,
can scarcely be done .with any beneficial eifect. It
must, however, be admitted that, according^ to the ex-
perience of some, this arrangement is inferior to the
common trellis.

It is of importance that the included soil and front
border of a vinery should be fresh and rich, and of
a considerable depth. Mr. GrifFen (in Lond. Hortici
Trans.) recommends as a comj^ost ''one-half of good
loamy soil with its turf, one-quarter of rich old dung,
and one-quarter of brick and lime rubbish; the turf
well rotted, and the whole well incorporated." Plants
raised from cuttings, and prepared for two or three
years in pots, are preferred for the furnishing of a
vinery; and when planted inside the house, there should
not be fewer than two plants to each sash.

It is scarcely necessary to enumerate the particular
varieties of the grape-vine, as adapted for a vinery, for
every good variety deserves a place where there is room,
and all those which have been already mentioned are
occasionally employed. It may be remarked, however,
that the kinds should be assorted according to the order
of their ripening. The early g^i-apes, such as the Mus-
cadines, should be planted in a house, by themselves;
those of a medium character, the Frontignacks and Black
Hamburgh, for example, may occupy a second ; while
the late Tokay, the Muscat of Alexandria, Nice, Syrian,
and others, would be fit inmates for a third. This would
produce a regular succession, and admit a uniformity of
treatment in each house. Where there is not a suite
of vineries, but only on^ large house, tjie late varieties
30

346 FORCING GARDEN.

sliould be placed near the entrance of the flues, where
the temperature is higher.

Pruning and Training. — Very numerous^ have been
the directions given in reference to these particulars ;
but we cannot here go into such details, nor is it neces-
sary. The great object is the reproduction of bearing,
that is, annual wood, over thfe whole. surface of the
house. When this is accomplished, the next matter to
be determined i« the number of eyes or buds to be left
on each shoot, that is, wdiether we shall adopt the short
or the long -system of pruning. The former is most
allied to the practice of foreign vineyards, and has been
most successfully employed in this country. According
to this method, all the lateiJal shoots ar^ <3ut down to
single eyes, as described in Lond. Hortic. Trans. ^ iv.,
104. For a particular description of the long system,
weinay refer to the same volume, p, 246-, or io Lou-
don's Encyclo^xdia of Gardening^ second, edition, p.
548. To these references, we shall only add a few gene-
ral remaa'ks. (1.) It ought to be the great aim -of
the British gardener to make his vities grow as luxuri-
antly as possible;, for' the, good quality of the grapes,
when properly ripened, is generally commensurate with
the streng-th of the §hoota-<ind. size of thp berries. The
borders should therefore be ^^iade rich ; but they ought
to be rather wide than deep, deep planting being adverse
to the ripening of the fruit. (2.) In order to secure a
proper degree of vigor, vines ijliould be limited in ex-
tent and pruned during winter, rather severely than
otherwise. To enable us tQ circumscribe the plants, it
would bfi .well to introduce as many separate plants into
the vinery as can be done without, confusion, ^or an
illustra-tion of ..this principle, we -may refer to the prac-

GRAPE-VINE — PRUNING AND TRAINING. 347

tice of the vignerons of Fontainebl-eau, as described in
tlie Pomone Francaise, or in the Lond. Hovtic, Trans. ^
voh vii. (3.) From the peculiar mode of growth in
the grape-vine, the bearing branches have a tendency
to recede from the centre to the extremities, and are
often found in abundance only at the top of the trellis.
Every young shoot near the front of the house should
therefore be carefully husbanded, and cut back by way
of reserve. Old wood ought to be removed as frequently
as possible ; and the skillful pruner will look at least
two years before him. Nothing contributes more to
regularity in the succession of bearing wood than sim-
plicity in pruning and training; and, therefore, all
bending, and twisting, and trav^ersing of branches
should be avoided.

The summer pruning consists in removing with the
fingers useless lateral shoots, and especially buds not
producing shoots, and in pinching off the tender- points
of the bearing branches. The extent to which these
bearing branches may be allowed to run must depend
on their "vigor, and the positian which they hold in
the plant. Sometimes it may be needful to leave them
ten or twelve feet long, but, in general, ^two or three
feet will be sufficient. - The shorter the better. Tliey
seldom or never fail to send out secondary laterals from
their points : these and the others which succeed them
are stopped at the second or even first eye, and the ope-
ration is continued until vegetation ceases. When the
young- grapes begin- to swell, the clusters are thinned
out, that is, berries are removed whenever tlrey are too
much crowded together, and the shoulders or sides of
the bundles are supported hy tneans of slender threads
of bast-mat attached to some fixed point above." The

348 FORCING GARDEN.

quality and weight of clusters should be regarded rather
than .their number. Nothing seems more contemptible
than numbers of small and ill-ripened bunches of
grapes, smeared, as they often are, -with dust and honey
dew. Avarice not unfrequently cheats itself in thi^
matter; and it generally happens in the vinery, as else-
where, that not he who desires most obtains most. The
ripening, color, and flavor of grapes on the tree are
said to be promoted by removing a portion of the foliage;
this is to be done, however, only after the fruit has at-
tained full size; and by some it is, with app^arent justice,
alleged that the foliage ought never to be abridged.
If it be abundant, and exposed to the sun, the grapes
will come to perfection although shaded by. the foliage.
Sometimes the berries, when swelling, seem suddenly
arrested in their progress to maturity, and remain
stunted and shriveled. This affection is called shank-
ing by gardeners, and is generally ascribed to damp
and noisome vapor, or the want of due circulation of
pure air.

The forcing of the earliest vinery may commence in
January. At first the teijaperature may vary from 50°
to 55° Fahrenheit in the morning-S and evenings. AYhen
the buds have burst, it may be raised to 70°, and in the
flowering season it may be kept at 75°. At this period
it is necessary that the air should be preserved moist by
frequent steamings. Upon the appearance of color
in the fruit, the waterings should cease, and air be co-
piously admitted. In the early vineries, it is necessary
to continue the fire-heat without intermission : in the
later houses this is not required, but it must be used
occasionally, even in warm weather, to obviate the
effects of damp.

PEACH-HOUSE. 349

The Peach-IIouse. — A peacli-liouse, intended to be
commanded by one furnace, is generally about forty feet
long, ten or twelve feet wide,- and fourteen feet high ;
but these dimensions may be varied considerably, ac-
cording to the time at which the crop is desired to come
in. For early forcing, perhaps twenty-five or thirty feet
in length, and seven or eight in breadth, are sufficient ;
while a house ii> which the operations of nature are
only to be slightly accelerated may be extended to fifty
feet. As in the vinery, the fruit wall is arched, to per-
mit the egress of the roots to the neighboring border.
Upon this front wall is usually placed a range of up-
right sashes, which are surmounted by the sloping raft-
ers of the roof. A common form of a peach-house is
annexed, the upper figure showing the vertical section,
and the under one the ground plan ; a, a, are the flues,
h is the table trellis, c the trellis on the back wall ; along
with which a hanging trellis, represented at p. 344, is
sometimes employed, although this is not approved of
by many. The flue, which is. built on pillars and re-
turns on itself, occupies the centre of the house. The
trees are trained to the two trellises 5 and c, and to the
hanging trellis, if such be in use. Against the back
wall three or four,d^a.rf t4"6es are planted, with inter-
mediate riders, the latter being altogether removed at
the end of four or five years at furthest. These, with
three for the. front. trellis, make in all nine or ten trees
for each house. ;

The figure on page '351 represents another form of.
the pcach-h-ouse-, riot so generally used as the former, bUt
of equal if riot superior' merit. We have supposed it
heated by a water apparatus «, «, but that is not an.
essential matter, as a common flue is equally applicable.

-30*

350

FORCING GARDEN.

Fig. 38.

There is no upright front glass, nor any trellis on the
back wall, the trees being planted in front, and trained
on a wire trellis 5, attached to the rafters, and covering
the whole surface of the sloping roof. As the peach-
tree is not found to extend much more than twelve or
thirteen feet on the open wall, the length of the. rafter,

PEACH-HOUSE.

351

inside measure, need not do more than approach to four-
teen feet. It is obvious that in such a house the trees

Fig. 39.

nr^y.

must enjoy an equable, and, frOm their proximity to the
glass, an advantageous degree of light. Besides, being
planted close to the front wall, they are not exposed to
have their roots stunted in passing under the flues, and
through the interior soil of the house, which, in spite of
every assiduity in watering and manuring, is apt to be-
come hard and impoverished. Further, it has been esti-
mated that, as far as roof ancl glass are concerned, four
or even five such houses may be erected at the same
expense as three of the common form. -

In Holland, peaches are forced in pits resembling the
common hotbed or melon-pit of this country. The
trees are trained on a trellis-work- n^ar the glasg, and
the air is heated by the fermentation of stable-dung
linings. The method has been partially adopted in
this country, with, however, the use of hot water.
When garden architects shall cease to be anxious about
making all foreing-houses ornamental structures, this
will probably be the general form in which early and
tender peaches will be cultivated.

352 FjOrcing garben.

The pruning and training of peacli-trees in the peach-
house does not differ materially from the practice out of
doors. The sashes having been removed in the autumn
are replaced about New Year's Day. Fire-heat is
6ommonly applied about the beginning or middle of
February; but where there is a large suit of houses,
and an extended succession- is wanted, forcing, as it then
truly becomes, may l3egin a month sooner. At first
the temperature is kept about 46°, but it is afterwards
gradually increased to 50° or 55° Fahrenheit. While
the trees are in flower, and till the fruit be set, the
house is occasionally steamed, either by sprinkling water
on the warm flues, or by admitting the vapor from the
pipes, where steam is employed for heating. After this
period the foliage is washed, from time to time, with
the garden engine. ' When the fruit: is stoned, or the
kernels have been formed, the temperature is raised to
about 60°. Water is now copiously^ supplied to the
border: the fruit is thinned' out*; the various opera''-
tions of disbudding and tying are performed, and air is
admitted in abundance. * After the end of April, little
fire-heat is reo[uired for the peach-house. The trees
often suffer from' mildew." From this 'malady an ap-
plication oT soap-lather is one of 'the 'most effectual
remedies; the best preventives consist in keeping the
borders x)f the peach-liou^e Mear, and in' good condition
as to fresli soil, and in taking care that nothing be per-
mitted to obstruct' tlie free cifculation of air and. full
a-dmission of sun. If aphides infesLt t/he^ house, a fumi-
gation with tobacco should l>e resorted to.

It may here be remarked that by curious' cultivators
several uncommon kinds of exotie fruiti? arc occa-sion-

EXOTIC FRUIT. 353

ally grown with success in conservatories^ vineries, hot-
houses, or other glazed structures, along with the more
regular or usual inmates. Among these may be men-
tioned the Loquat, Eriohotrya japonica ; the Jamro-
sadc, Eugenia jamhos; the Purple Granadilla Passiflora
edulis; the Granadilla vine, P. quadr angular is ; the
May-apple, P. incarnata; the Water-lemon, P. law^i-
folia: and the Sweet Calabash, P. maliformis ; the
Papaw, Carica Fafaya ; the Baaai^ 3Iusa mpientum ;
and M, CavendisMi,- y^hich. last yields its fruit readily,
while the plant does not attain an inconvenient size.
The Leechee, Ncphelium Litohi^ has occasionally
ripened in our stoves ; the Longyen, Euphoria Ion-
gajiayhixs yielded its fruit at Syon House; and the
.Mango, 3fangifera indiea, at the garden of Earl Powis.
The China Guava, Psidium cuttleianum, fruits freely
in the vinery of tha Experimental Garden at Edinburgh:
the fruit is round, about the size of a small plum ; of
a fine claret color; the pulp soft, only a little firmer
than that of a strawberry, and of a pleasant, subacid
flavor, making a moBt desirable preserve. The Car-
ambola, Aver.rlioa Caramhola^ of the East Indies, has
* of late been added to our exotic fruits, by Mr. Bateman
of Knypersley, near Congleton: the fruit is of the size
and shape of a duck's Qg-g, but with longitudinal ribs
on the sides; either in tarts or as preserve, the fla-
vor is excellent. It may be noticed that, both from
the descriptions of intelligent travelers and from the
preserved fi-uit being sent to Britain, we know that va-
rious species of exotic fruit-trees exist, which have
not yet reached us in a living state ; and the introduc-
tion of these might form an object of innocent, pleas-

•354 FORCING GARDEN.

ing, and comme.ndable ambition to enterprising and
wealthy horticulturists.

The Cherry-House, in its general arrangements, re-
semblesthe peach-house, with the exception of the front
trellis, .the place of which is commonly occupied by a
stage for pots of early strawberries or kidney-beans.
The cherry-trees are trained against the, back wall; the
house should therofore be narrow, 'and the roof steep.
The operation of forcing generally <jommences early in
January, with a very , moderate temperature. Air is
admitted freely till the flowers begin to expand, when .
great caution becomes necessary. When the fruit is
setting, the temperature is kept as steadily as possible
at 50°; after ^t is set, abundance of water is applied to
the roots and foliage of the trees. When the fruit is
coloring, water is almost entirely withheld, and air
freely admitted. During the whole process of forcing
cherries, any excessive he"at from the sun's rarys fnust
be carefully guarded against by shading or by admit-
ting of air. The kind of cherry usually -preferred "for
forcing in the common May-duke. A cherry-house
ought to f(3rm a part of every large garden establish-
ment; for nothing more signally distinguishes the tables
of the opulent, in March and April, than ripe cherries
appearing along with strawberries in the dessert at that
season of the year.

The Fig-House scarcely differs in form and manage-
ment from the Cherry-house, the trees being trained to
a back trellis, with the addition, however, of dwarf
standard trees in front. The second crop is often the
most productive^ In 1810, we are told the royal tables

THE ORANGE TRIBE. 355

were supplied with more than 200 baskets of figs, 50 of
■which were from the first crop, and 150 from the second.
It is seldom, however, that a separate house is erected-
for this fruit. The fig succeeds very well as a dwarf
standard between the front fluos of a vinery, provided
the roof be not too closely covered with the foliage of
the vines. ' Of late, small standard figs have very com-
monly been grown in large pots, folirteen or'- fifteen
inches iix diameter, and placed in any of the_^forcing-
houses. In this way-considerable. crops of fruit have
been raised. The Figue blanche and the ^farseilles are
the sorts considered best adapted for forcing.

The Orange Tribe (Citrus) are cultivated in Britain,-
rather as objects of curiosity and beauty than for the
purpose of afi"ording a supply of fruit. Commerce with
Portugal,, Spain, Italy,- and China, has brought this
class of fruits -^Yithin the reach of every one ; and the
copious importations which annually take place have
no -doubt discouraged the cultivation of the plants. A
few orange-trees are nevertheless to be met with in most
collections, and in large and sump.tuous gardens it is
not uncommon to meet avith glazed houses specially set
apart for their reception.

The following brief notices of some of the cultivated
species of tho-genus 'Citrus are derived principally from
Mr. Gf Don's General System- of Botany and Garden-
ingy a work evincing singular accuracy and unwearied
research,, and from- Mr Ri.sso'a excellent paper in the
Annales .dii 3Iuseum, vol. xx.

O. 3Ie4{ca, the Citi^on, the Ccdrate of the Italians, is
a small evergreen tree. The fruit is large, of an oval
form, and covered with a rough skin or rind, which is

356 FORCING GARDEN.

charged with a, highly fragrant oil. The citron is ge-
nerally used in confections. It is supposed to be a na-
tive of Media^ and will scarcely ripen without protec-
tion in, Britain. Three subvarieties of citrt>n are de-
scribed by Risso.

Q, Limetta, the Siveet Lime. — This is rather a tall
tree, with diverging branches. The flower is of a fine
white color, composed of five oblong petals. The fruit
is globose, with a black nipple-like protuberance at the
apex; it has a firm rind, and sweet pulp, and the color
is pale yellow. The lime i& a native of Asia, but culti-
vated in Italy. Seven varieties have been described.

C. Limonumy the Lemon. — -The petioles of theleaves
somewhat winged ; fruit oblong, with a thin rind adher-
ing closely to-, the very acid pulp. This, like the pre-
ceding, is a native of Asia, but is cultivated in the south
of Europe. There are numerous varieties.

Q. Aurantium^ Stveet Orange. — The petioles almost
naked ; fruit globose, with a thin rind aiid sweet pulp.
Risso has enumerated nineteen varieties ; of which the
principal are, the China, the Portugal, and the Maltese.
The last has a blood-colored pulp, with rich juice, and is
no\V^ much in request. The Tangerine, orange may be
cultivated successfully in a coipmon flower-pot, produc-
ing fruit of delicious quality for the dessert.

'O, Bigarda, Seville ov Bitter Orange^ the most hardy
of the trib'e. The petioles winged ; fruit globose, with
a thin rind, and bitter juice.- This sort is employed for
making marmalade, and is also used in medicine.
Twelve varieties have been described.

0. Decumana, the Shaddoelc. — The petioles broad,
with cordate wings ; fruit large, round, weighing from
ten to fourteen ppunds, with a. thick rind. This fruit

THE ORANGE TRIBE. 357

was carried by Captain Shaddock from China to the Bri-
tish ^Yest Indies, where it first acquired the name which
it here bears. It is now cultivated not only in the West
India Islands, but extensively in South America;
Four sorts are enumerated. Of all the Citrus tribe,
this has the most beautiful foliage, and it is therefore
not improperly selected for filling the back wall of a
vinery. -^

The Orangery^ in England, seldom difi^ers in form,
even where it is a separate structure, from that of the
green-house. Most commonly, the few orange plants
which are kept are grown in large pots. Or in tubs or
boxes, and occupy a place with other exotics on the green-
house shelves. . When the trees are of considerable size,
the bQxes or square tubs are so constructed that they
can be partially taken to pieces without materially dis-
turbing the roots of the plants ; and the soil can then be
renewed or meliorated on the different sides at success-
ive periods. Of late, such tubs have been constructed
of large slates ; these have an elegant appearance, and
they are equally convenient, the sides being removable
as in the wooden structures. At some places, the orange^
trees are planted in conservatories erected for the pur-
pose. In the neighborhood of Paris, the orangeries are
little better than dark sheds, in which the trees are kept
protect'ed during the winter months, light and air being
given only when the weather permits. At AYoodhall, in
Lanarkshire, they wore trained again&t trell-ises, under
glass, and in this way produced abundant crops of fine
fruit. We have there seen a plant of the St. Michael's
orange, twenty-four feet wide and eighteen feet high,
clothed with fruit.

Middle-sized plants are frequently imported from the
31

358 FORCING GARDEN.

Italian nursery gardens, and this, is the readiest way of
procuring large specimens at a cheap rate. The plants
are closely packed in boxes, -with SQme- grass or moss
around the roots. Upon their arrival they are in a
withered and dead-like state, and require considerable
care and management to recover them from the effects
of the voyage. When propagated in this country, they
are budded on citron or Seville orange stocks ; the for-
mer recommended' by Miller as preferable. The seeds
of the stocks are sown in pots, and the growth -of the
seedlings is aided, during the first and second summer,
by the application of slight bottom-heat in a hotbed
frame. These are usually budded in August. The late
Mr. Henderson, gardener at Woodhall, used to graft his
trees, employing cions formed of the wood of the second
year. He also propagated by cuttings, considering this
the quickest mode of obtaining plants. We may add
that this most successful cultivator of, the oran-ge tribe
made it a rule to keep his trees rather cool, and with
plenty of air in mild weather, till the fruit was fairly
set; after which he found that he could apply .more heat
without the risk of the fruit failing.

The orange-tree prospers in a rich, fresh, and rather
strong soil ; and, in this country, it is the practice to mix
with it a considerable portion of well-rotted manure.
When grown in pots or boxes, the plant should be shifted,
and the earth partly renewed, every spring.. In summer,
copious waterings are given, and the leaves aro syringed
once or twice a weok. The heads are kept thin, and
any branches which inconveniently cross each other
are removed. When planted against trellises, they are
trained in the fan form ; and in laying in the- shoots.

THE PINE-APPLE. 359

allowance is to be made, for the size of the leaves in
the different species.

The Pine-Apple [Bromelia Ananas L. or Ananassa
sativa) is comparatrvely of recent introduction into Bri-
tain. It was nearly unknown to English horticulturists
in the beginning of the eighteenth century ; for Thbresby,
the Leeds antiquary, kept a leaf of the pine-apple in
his museum as a curiosity. It is now largely and success-
fully cultivated in all the principal gardens in Britain.
Its culture requires all the ingenuity, judgment, and
watchfulness of the skillful and diligent horticulturist ;
and we shall, therefore, treat of it at considerable
length. It derives its name from the general resem-
blance of its fruit to a large cone of a pine-tree. The
fruit is a kind of pulpy strobilus, formed of coadunate
berries, and crowned at top' with a tuft of small pointed
leavesl The flavor of the pulp, is of the most exquisite
kiml. The plant is herbaceous, and the fruit-stem,
w^hich generally appears in the second or .third year^ is
surrounded wi'th long serrated leaves, resembling those
of some species of aloe. The fruit grown in Britian is
considered equal in all good qualities, and generally
superior in size, to that reared in tropical countries.
The Lond. Ilortic. Catalogue enumerates 06 varieties :
"of these the following may be deemed most worthy of
notice.

The Queen Pine is very generally cultivated. Its
fruit is of a cylindrical or tankard shape, of a yellowish
color inclining to orjingo, and sometimes weighs three
pounds ; it is, at the same time, of fine flavor. This
kind produces with greater certainty than most others,
and the fruit'may be easily ripened in fifteen or eighteen

360 FORCING GARDEN.

months from the planting of the crown or offset. It
is therefore the most useful of all the pines. A sub-
variety called Ripley''s Queen is also excellent.

The Blach Antigua has leaves armed with large
spines : ' the flowers are purple ; the fruit cylindrical,
averaging five pounds weight. It should be cut a little
before it be quite ripe.

The Black Jamaica, or Old Jamaica.— In this variety
the spines on the leaves are small ; the flowers purple ;
the fruit oblong, averaging about four pounds. This is
an excellent kind, and is considered the best sort for
fruiting during the winter months.'

The JSfeio Jamaica is rather an inferior kind, but is
pretty good when ripened ip the summer time.

The Brown-leaved Sugar-loaf is a capital black va-
riety ; and the Enville a &howy and useful pine, with
large flat pips, and thd fruit often attaining a consider-
able size.

The St: Vincent's, or,, as it is sometimes called, the
O-reen Olive, has middle-sized spines, purple flowers,
and pyramidal frujt, which average about two pounds
and a half. It succeeds well as a winter fruit.

The White Providence has small spines, dark purple
flowers, and oblong fruit of a large size, averaging, when
well grown, seven pounds weight, and. sometimes ex-
ceeding twelve .pounds. The color of the fruit is at
first brownish-gray, but at ripening it becomes of a pale
yellow. ■ The pulp is yellow, melting, and abounds with
quick lively juice, but not equal in flavor to some of
the other kinds.

The Trinidad is remarkable for the great size of its
fruit, which is said to attain sometimes to the weight
of twenty-six pounds. Its average is stated in the Hort.

THE PINE-APPLE. 361

Cat. to be twelve pounds; but we have never seen it
above half that weight. The spines are middle-sized,
the flowers lilac, and the fruit pyramidal. Apart from
its magnitude, it is, like the preceding, only a secondary
fruit.

The following may. also be named as good sorts:
Bagot's Seedling, Russian Globe, Green King with
smooth leaves, Striped Queen, Sierra Leone, Brown
Sugar-loaf, and Orange Sugar-loaf. And three or four
more, though of inferior quality, may be noticed for
their beauty or curiosity, viz., the Blood-red, Otaheite,
Scarlet, Welbeck Seedling, and the Havana,' the fruit
of which last keeps long, and has sometimes been suc-
cessfully imported.into this country from Cuba.
: Structure for gvoiving Pine-apples. — The pine-apple
has generally been found to require cultivation for two
or throe years b'efore it perfects its fruit ; its culture has,
in consequetice, been divided into three periods — pro-
pagation, successional preparation, and fruiting ; and
each of these periods has its corresponding, structure,
viz;, the nursing-pit, the succession-house or pit, and the
fruiting-house.

The nursing-pit has occasionally assumed a great
variety of forms, respecting which, however, it is not
necessary to go into minute detail. For summer use, a
large glazed frame, placed upon a hotbed of stable lit-
ter and tanners' bark, is perhaps the best hitherto de-
visexl. "The Alderston -Melon-pit, and Atkinson's Mel-
on'-pit, described under the head JStelonry, are likewise
very suitable for this purpose. In winter,, it is desira-
ble to have the assistance of fir^Theat, eithei: from flues,
or, what is better, from hot water; though this fire-heat
is not intlispen sable,

81*

362

FORCING GARDEN.

40.

The succession-pit performs the same functions as the
nursing-pit, but at a more advanced stage of the growth
of the plant, and consequently requires an increase of
size. With this difference, At-
kinson's Melon-pit does very
well for summer use. In colder
seasons, we should prefer a pit
similar to that represented on
the margin ; in which a hot-wa-
ter apparatus on the siphon
principle is employed to heat
the atmosphere of the pits, and
the bottom-heat is communicat-
ed by the circulation of hot wa-
ter from the same boiler, in open
troughs resting on the bottom of
. the pit. The boiler a is placed
nearly on a level with the bot-
tom of the pit. 5, Pipes, on the
siphon principle for warming
the air of the pit. CC, Troughs
for communicating the bottom-
heat-, placed in the bottom of the
pit on a level with the boiler.
The water is drawn from the
boiler to the ends of the troughs
d d by small movable siphons,
which promote its ciiX5ulation.
The bed j?^ in which the plants are plunge-d, is supported
by, a framework of woo<:l, resting- on brick piers between
the troughs. A ]x)iler placed in the centre is sufficient
for a -range of sixty feet. Pits sueh as these have been
in successful operation for the last two years in the gar-

PINE-APPLE. 863

dens of the Earl of Ilopetoun, and were designed by
Mr. Charles H. J. Smith, landscape gardener and gar-
den architect, of whose assistance the writer of this trea-
tise has had muclr satisfaction in availing himself, in
the designing of the illustrative- sketches and diagrams.
Mr. Smith also proposes another form of a succession-
pit, exhibited below, -entirely heated hj hot water. The

Fig. 41.

surface-heat is supplied by pipes in front ; the bottom-
heat is kept up by small pipes from the boiler, passing
through cisterns of water extending the whole length of
the pit. In this case it would be necessary to apply the
heat only during the day. The anly succession-house,
or, that generally in use till wil:hin the last fifteen years,
does not differ materially from the common pine-stove :
but, owing to its great waste of heat, it either is or
ought to be entirely laid aside.

In tliG fru{tmr/-7ionse, 'moY& room, greater hciglit, and
,a more powerful temperature, are requisite ; and to at-
tain these objects, many varieties of structure have'been
devised. We s-hall notice those only which are' most
worthy of attention. The first w^e shall mention is
BaldwiYi's fruiting-pit, of which a section Ls given on the
next page. ■ The roof is iiner|ually ridged, the nortli or
shorter side being skxted and furnish-od with vc'ntilators,
to admit air. The sashcS are immovable, and the hips
of the panes are closely puttied. There is a path with-

364

FORCING GARDEN,
Fi- 42.

in, and a single turn of a flue behind. We should pre-
fer the following form, in whidi there are ventilators, a
a, and a hot-water apparatus surrounding the whole pit.

Fis. 43.

The dimensions of this may^be fifty feet long, and nine
feet wide-; the glass being two feet and a half from the
curb of-the-bark-pi-t in front, and five feet behind. We
next present 'a section of 'a pine-pit with a curvilinear

44.

PINE-APPLE — BOTTOM-IIEAT.

365

roof, in whieh the astragals are parallel. A segment of
an elliptical arch somewhat less than a quadrant, the
origin of the curve being on the front wall, seems bet-
ter adapted for a pit than any portion of a circle. This
pit is supposed to be heated by a small steam-pipe pass-
ing through a large iron tank or cistern a, filled with
water, on the same principle as exhibited in the figure
at page 321.

The old-fashioned pine-stove was a lofty structure,
in the vinery form, with front sashes. It used to be
forty or fifty feet long, an'd twelve or fourteen feet broad,
and was commanded by two flues. In addition, to the
pine-plants in the pit, the roof was also partly covered
with vines, a practice justly condemned by the late Mr.
Nicol in his "Forcing Gardener.'' "VYe are also dis-
posed to agree with that experienced writer regarding

r

Fi:?. 45.

the disuse, of the pine-stove itself. Besides other griev-
ous faults, a single house affords too little room; and
it is a matter of experience that, where the stock of
pine-plants is not extensive, certain and abundant crops
of fruit cannot be expected. Instead, therefore, of a
succession and fruitjng-house of the old form, with

366 FORCING GARDEN.

two fires each, it would b« better to have four pits with
single fires. There might be two succession-pits of the
forms represented, sup^a^ pages 362, 363, and two fruit-
ing-pits similar to the figures on page 364. These
would contain a much greater number of plants than
two pine-stoves, would be little more expensive in erec-
tion, and, as the number of fires is the same, would not
consume much more fuel.

Bottom-Heat. — As a substitute for the warmth ab-
sorbed by the earth from the powoi^ful rays of the sun
in tropical countries, the pots of pine-plants are gene-
rally plunged in a bed composed of tanners' bark, de-
caying leaves, or other fermenting substances. Tan-
ners' bark is most commonly used. Speechly and
Nicol prefer leaves shed by hardwo-od trees in autumn.
Others form the under' and greater part of the bed with
stable-litter. Whatever substance is employed, it should
not be put into the bed until the first violent heat of
fermentation havje passed; or, if circumstances impose
a necessity of using it in a recent state, it should be
largely mixed with old materials of the same kind. A
layer of exhausted bark, ten or twelve inches thick,
should 'be laid on the surface of the bed. In pine-
stoves, the curb of the bark-pit is usually elevated
about three feet above the common level of the house,
and has a gentle slope towards the front ; in pine-pits,
however, it approaches more cl-osely to the. glass. The
bark is commonly five or six feet deep ; but it may be
questioned whether this depth is not excessive and un-
necessary. A bed about three and a half feet deep
would probably be more convenient, and afford a heat
sufiicient both in intensity and duration for any useful
purpose.

PINE-APPLE — BOTTOM-HEAT.

367

We have already shown how a system of tubes trans-
mitting steam or hot water may be made available for
the production of bottom-heat. There is another me-
thod worthy of at least a cursory notice. Its invention
is due to Mr. M'Murtrie, and it will be understood by
the section and plan given in the following figures.

Fig. AG. .

A shallow bark-bed, about two feet deep, rests upon

368 FORcma garden.

an arched chamber of single brick. 1 is the fire-place;
2, a; fire-flue running along the whole length- of the
chamber 4, which is also kept full of steam by means
of the boiler and pipe 3; the aperture 5 admits steam
and heat into the air of the pit, and of these there is
one, both in back and front, under each sash, capable
of being stopped at pleasure. The waste--pipe 6 allows
the steam to escape, when the apertures marked 5 are
shut. By the return of the flue 2, the atmosphere of
the house is heated; and by the joint action of the in-
closed part of the flue, and of the steam in the chamber,
an abundant and salubrious bottom-heat is easily main-
tained.

The proper management of bottom-heat is a matter
of some difficulty, and in this there have been more
failures than in any other part of the pine-apple cul-
ture. The heat arising from violent fermentation is
greater than the tender roots can bear, and, if all
watchfulness be not employed, the labor of many
months may be blasted in a single day. Mr, Knight
discarded bottom-heat altogether; but he did not suc-
ceed in convincing others that pine-appleS could be
grown equally well without it. Bottom-heat is, how-
ever, very generally, kept too high. Perhaps the
upper limit of its temperature rnay be fixed at blood-
heat, or at most 100°, while the under or winter limit
may be brought down to 70° or 75°. Gardeners are
accustomed to judge of the heat of the bed by means of
long sticks pushed into it; these are occasionally drawn
out and felt by the hand, and a rough guess at the
temperature is thus obtained. A far preferable me-
thod is to employ a slow thermometer, slightly cased
in wire, to protect it when pushed into the bed.

PINE-APPLE — PROPAGATION.

Soil. — Various nice and minute directions have been
given respecting composts for pine-apple plants. Any
compost, however, will be found suitable, which is at
once rich, fresh, and simple. Perhaps a mixture of the
top-spit, including the turf of an old pasture, and about
a half of good, well-rotted dung, combines these quali-
ties as completely as possible. When it is necessary to
lighten these materials, a compost of decayed leaves
and a little sand may be added. It is of importance
that the compost, whatever it may be, should be pre-
pared a considerable time beforehand, and frequently
turned over. It should be broken wi-th the spade, but
not screened ; and when used, it should not be too moist.
Pine-apple plants are found to show fruit more readily
in a rich light soil than in strong loam, but not to pro-
duce such large fruit. In selecting his compost, the
cultivator must make his election between these advan-
tages. At all events the soil must be rich ; it caa
scarcely be too rich. " The pine," says an intelligent
writer in the Qardeners 3Iagazine, vol. ix., " is a gross
feeder, and will thrive in vegetable manure, however
rich and fresh." Liquid manures have been applied;
but these, however useful when recent, prove deleterious
in a fermented state.

Propagation. — In the cultivated state, the fruit of
the pine-apple becomes so succulent that it seldom or
never forms seed. The different varieties are propa-
gated hy planting, the crowns or tufts which grow oh
the fruit, or the suckers which appear at the base of the
stem. These, when removed from the fruit or the stem,
are laid aside for a few days, till the scar at the place
of separation have dried or healed, a precaution to pre-
vent their rotting ; after which they are potted imme-
32

370 FORCING GARDEN.

cliately. Sometimes, late in the season, they are merely
thrust into exhausted tan, without pots, where they
remain till the following spring. In general the oif-
sets should be as large as possible. Speechly did not
break oiF his suckers before they were twelve or four-
teen inches long, and he reserved only the largest
crowns. These large suckers and crowns grow -with
greater rapidity, and come sooner into fruit, than those
of smaller size; and in this, in truth, consists the prin-
cipal secret of what has been called- the short method
of culture, by which fruit is obtained in a much briefer
space of time than usual. The soil employed in pro-
pagation is rather -lighter than that afterwards applied.
The pots may be from three to six inches in diameter,
and, to promote draining, shjould contain at bottom a
layer of shivers or clean graveL For some- time the
plants are shaded from the rays- of the sun, and in
about eight or ten days they receive a little water.
It may be laid down as an important general rule, in
.the culture of the pine-apple, that the progi-ess of the
plant sholild be carried on without intermission —
without a check, without allowing it to flag for an
hour. As already stated, the older and more common
routine of pine-apple culture embraced a period of three
years ; but recent improvements have reduced these to
two years, or even to eighteen months. This has. given
rise to two modes of preparatory management, which
we shall notice separately, premising that the treat-
ment in the fruiting-house is the same in both.

Tynennidl course. — The plants which were potted in
autumn are kept in the nursing-pit during winter, with
a mild temperature, slight bottom-heat, and sparing
allowance of -rt'ater. About the beginning of April they

TRIENNIAL COURSE. 371

are transferred into larger pots, and are commonly
shifted into -hotbeds, or pits heated with stable-dung,
in which they are found to prosper exceedingly. Air is
given every day, and is copiously admitted as soon as
the sun's rays have acquired considerable power. During
summer, the average morning temperature may be from
70° to 75° Fahrenheit, but in sunshine it may be allowed
to rise to 85°, 90°, or even more. The heat is main-
tained by adding occasional, linings of stable-litter,
and when it is exhausted, the plants are transferred
into other beds or pits, more recently made up, and in
which fermentation is going on. In flued nursing-pits,
the management is precisely the same.- The bottom-
heat is -aided by fresh additions of tan*- Asnotliing is
to be dreaded from damp, where there is a command of
fire-heat, more copious waterings may be given, and the
plants may be syringed overhead, or slightly steamed,
by throwing water on, the flues. It is not very common
to shift the plants in the nursery during summer; but
it is a good rule to have recourse to that operation as
often as the roots begin to mat on the sides of the pot.
Before the end of autumn the young plants become
vigorous. The lower part of the st;ilk 'Should then be
thick, the centre or funnel formed by. the leaves should
be upright, open, and rather short, and the leaves them-
selves not long nor very numerous, but broad, stiff, suc-
culent, .and free from contortion and deformity. To-
wards the end of autumn, the plants arc taken into the
succession-pit, which, in fact, is only a nursing-pit on a
large scale. The temperature for winter should be
about 60°. About the middle of March, they are shifted
into pots nine or ten inches in diameter. At this
period, it is not uncommon, in compliance with the

372 FORCING G-ARDEN.

recommendation of Abercrombie and the other older
authorities to cut away the whole of the roots, and to
repot the plant somcAvhat in the capacity of a sucker.
The reasons alleged for this extraordinary practice are,
that the pine-apple plant is continually pushing out roots
at the surface, while those below are rapidly dying ; that
the soil, in the course of three years, becomes completely
exhausted ; and, lastly, that this treatment prevents
premature starting in the course of the second year.
This last reason is very questionable, and it assumes
that pine-apple plants must be treated for three years
before they produce fruit. There is some force in the
other reasons, but they certainly do not prove the ne-
cessity of the practice. Roots may be pruned without
being removed altogether. The earth may be shaken
almost entirely away, and replaced by fresh compost,
at the expense of only a few fibres. Again, if, at every
shifting, a small portion of the earth be taken from be-
low, as florists treat auriculas in pots, at the end of twa
years scarcely any portion of the original soil will re-
main. The grand objection to the operation is the
great and unnecessary check to vegetation, and the con-
sequent stuntedness of habit, which, in succulent.plants
of such an age, is scarcely remediable. That it is pos-
sible successfully to cultivate pine-apples without thus
cutting away the roots, is borne out by the testimony
and practice of Griffin, Appleby, and other distinguished
cultivators. When the roots are even partially removed,
the plants must be shaded for some time, and be wa-
tered sparingly, till they begin to grow freely. The
summer temperature should be comparatively warm,
the range being from 65° to 70° of fire-heat, or during
night, and from 70° to 85° solar heat. Abundance of

PTNE-APPLE — BIENNIAL COURSE. 3|3

air should be admitted, and the plants ought to be set
widely, that they may have room to swell below, and
become stout and bushy.

Bienyiial Course. — The method of culture which we
have denominated the biennial course was first brought
into notice by Abercrombie, and more recently has been
strenuously recommended by Baldwin. Its chief feature
is the acceleration of the growth of the plants by the
application of higher temperatures than it wa& formerly
supposed they would flourish in. They are, in fact,
made to attain the growth of two summers in the course
of one yeai'.

About the. beginning of Marph,- the most forward of
the plants potted over winter, or the suckers kept iiv tan,
are taken out, the earth or tan taken away, and the roots
shortened. Tljey -are then put into pots^about five
inches in diameter, which are plunged into frames or
pits heated with tan or stable-litter. They are shaded
as usual, and, after they begin to grow, receive moderate
waterings. When the roots appear around the balls of
soil, which will be about the middle of June, tlie plants
are again shifted into larger pots from six to sevpn
inches in diameter, and, if the heat be declining, are re-
moved into other- pits or beds. In the beginning of
August they are transferred into large pots, in which,
unless they are intended^ for early spring forcing, they
stand during the winter ; and in February they are
finally shifted into pots twelve or fourteen inches in dia-
meter. For spring forcing, "the last shifting takes place
in October, and the pots may be two inches narrower.
At every shifting the ball <)f earth is preserved entire.
From March the temperature is gradually increased ;
little air is admitted, even in strong sunshine, and a

82*

374 FORCING GARDEN.

lively bottom-lieat is kept up by means of repeated lin-
ings. When there is danger of scorching the roots,
the pots are partially drawn up, or even set upon the
surface of the tan. The following table will give an
idea of the temperature (Fahrenheit's thermometer) and
its progressive increase : —

During Night. During Day.

March G0° to 70° G0° to 80°

April 70 — 75 70 — 85

May 75 — 80 90 — 100

June 80 — 85 100 — 120^

After the beginning of July, the heat is allowed to
decline by degrees, until it arrive at the winter tempe-
rature of 60°. It is to be understood, however, that
these temperatures regard only stable-dung or tan heat ;
and that, too, applied to crowns, as the- larger suckers
seldom require more than 100°. When foe-heat is
used, and it should always be through the medium of
hot water, the nocturnal temperature should only ap-
proach towards 80° ; and there should be some expedi-
ent for the sloiu immission of steam into the atmosphere
of the pit. During the whole summer, care is employed
to prevent the plants from being draivn, and for this
purpose they are allowed much space, and are placed
as near the glass as possible. In August and Septem-
ber a^bundance of air, and more copious supplies of
water, are given. In winter, the chief care is to pre=
serve the roots from damping off, and for this reason,

* These temperatures were actually maintained in the pineries
of the Royal Gardens at Kensington in 1825. Our authority
(Mr. Gowans, now gardener at Gadder House, and a most sue--
cessful horticulturist) has subsequently 'recommended a miti-
gated scale.

PINE-APPLE — FRUITIN-0-HOUSE. 375

though it is not the common practice, we should prefer
winter pits, having at least the command of fire-heat.

This mode of driving^ as it has been significantly
called, is applicable chiefly to tlie varieties called the
Queen and Ripley's New Queen ; most of the large
growing sorts requiring a longer period. It is desirable,
therefore, that both courses of culture should be carried
on at the same time; so that the larger varieties may
be consigned to the triennial course, while the vacan-
cies in either may be made up from the other. That
this is practicable, at least in gardens where there are
two fruiting-houses, may be seen from the tabular com-
pendium of culture given at p. 379.

Fruiting -House. — About the beginning of August,
the plants, now two years old, are shifted for the last
time. The pots are from twelve to fourteen inches in
diameter, and the balls are preserved entire. About
eight or ten days previously, the bark-pit of the fruit-
ing-house should be cleared out, the old tan screened,
if necessary, and fresh material supplied. The pots
are then plunged into the bark as deeply as xjan be
done with safety, and 'the plants are so treated as to
keep them in a growing state during the whole of au-
tumn. In winter, the nocturnal temperature is kept at
G0° ; but towards the end of January it is gradually
raised to 70°. This rise, however, should follow, and
not precede or be a cause of the vernal growth of the
plants. About the middle of February, the second
fruiting-house may be prepared for the rccejition of the
plants in the biennial suecession-pit. These are exist-
ing in a mild temperature, and start during the general
progress of the season.

That period at which pine-apple plants first show

376 FORCING GARDEN.

their fruit-stalks, or, as it is technically tcnirecl, start,
is the most critical in their whole culture. It is gene-
rally desirable that this should happen at a certain age,
and at a particular season; but these are circumstances
over which the cultivator .can scarcely be said to have
a direct control, and accordingly, while the most suc-
cessful can hardly deem themselves beyond the reach
of failure, the less skillful are very liable to err. ^Ye
are not aware that the. rationale of starting has been
investigated on the principles of vegetable physiology ;
and it is certain that the most absurd. practices have
been resorted to in order to force the plants into fruit.
We pretend not to give a theory; but a few practical
remarks may be of advantage. It is evident, then,
that the plant must be of a certain age, or at least of
a certain magnitude, before it will start freely or to
good purpose. Suckers of the. first year exert all their
energies in the production of roots and foliage ; and if
any of them happen to start, they exhibit little more
than a tuft of leaves where the fruit should be. In th-e
second year a Queen pine is capable of producing a
perfect fruit ; and in the third year the New Providence
and other large varieties arrive at puberty. The solid
part of the stem is then observed to have increased in
bulk, and to have ascended considerably, above the soil.
It is of more practical importance, however, to remark
that the fruit-stalks do not appear until the pot is well
filled with roots. Apparent exceptions thepe may be to
this rule; but in every case where it does not hold good,
the plant will be found to be diseased, or the roots to
have been violently destroyed. The grower ^should
therefore take care' that the roots shaH have nearly oc-
cupied all the new soil before the end of autumn, and

PINE-APPLE — FRUITING-nOUSE. 377

tliat in the course of the winter the tender fibres be not
exsiccated by drought, or rotted by excessive moisture.
Again, it is probable that at starting there is a peculiar
check in the growth of the plant, which causes it to di-
vert the sap from the formation of leaves, and,' like
most other vegetables in straitened circumstances, to
provide the means of reproduction, by throwing out
flower-buds. This diversion of the sap is influenced by
the quantity of vigorous fibres, for it is observed that
when, from some accident, plants not well furnished in
this respect do show fruit, they bestow the greater part
of the sap upon the leaves. Further, it is not a mere
suspension of vegetation, otherwise fruit would be pro-
duced by every plant which has had the roots cut from
it in the manner noticed above. Lastly, it is probable
that the proper check consists in a transition from
growth, however slight, to a temporary suspension of
vegetation, which again is followed by a copious flow of
the sap, circumstances which, as might be easily shown,
occur both in the winter and summer starting. If these
imperfect observations be correct, it follows that start-
ing is a natural process, requiring certain conditions
in the state of the plant, and therefore not to be forced
by violent treatment, or any sudden changes in temper-
ature and watering.

After the plants have shown fruit, they are never
shifted ; but the surfixce-soil may be removed, and re-
placed by a little fresh and rich compost. Yfater is sup-
plied from time to time as necessity requires ; but.it is
impossible to-give any definite rule on this subject. The
observant gardener will soon, from experience, discover
the proper, measure. "Water should never be given in a
colder state than the average temperature of the house ;

378 FDRCING GARDEN.

when, therefore, there is no tank within the house, the
watering-pots should be filled, and left in the house for
some time before the water be applied. Fire-heat is
kept up either continuously or a^t intervals, during the
greater part of the season.- It should always be mode-
rate, never exceeding, by itself, 70°. During sunshine,
the temperature may range from 70° to 100°. The
greater proportion there is of sun-heat the better. Whilst
the fruit is swelling, care must be taken to carry on the
growth of the plant with equability arnd moderation.
Violent checks are pernicious ; they debilitate the stalk,
and cause a stringiness in the fruit. As the fruit ap-
proaches maturity, water is gradually withheld, lest the
flavor should be injured. Pine-apples should be cut a
short time before they' attain complete maturity. The
larger varieties will keep^ood only for a day or two ;
the smaller varieties a week or more.

The following tabular compendium is from Aber-
crombie, altered, however, in some of its details, to suit
the idea of two crops a year. To execute this plan,
two fruiting-houses or pits, and one succession-pit,
would be required, together with a -variety of hotbeds,
or pits for the nursing .department. It is necessary to
premise, that crowns and suckers are usually potted
soon after they are taken off, and that August 15 may
be considered the date at which the whole operations of
potting should be finished. When there is only a bien-
nial course, it commences from about February 14,

PINE-APPLE — FKUITING-HO USE.

379

COxMPENDIUM OF THE CULTURE.

TRIENNIAL COURSE.

. 1S48.
Aug. 15.

1S49.
Feb. 14.

Aprrl 1.

Nursing-Pit.

Crowns and Suckers of
the New Providence
and other large vari-
eties planted ; also
small crowns , and
suckers of the Queen
pine.

BIENNIAL COURSE.

1848.
Aug. 15.

Nursing- Pit.

Large crowns and suck-
ers of the Queen pine
planted.

1S49.
Feb. 14.

July.
Aug.

1S50.
Mar. 1.

June 1.

1850
Aug. 15.

Small offsets of the
Queen pine dibbled
into the tan. ' I

The above potted or re- . Mar. 15
potted : the balls of
earth preserved en-
tire.

The intermediate shift-
ing : time determined
by expediency. June 15.

Succe^ion-Pit.

The plants from the nurs-
irtg-house are shifted
into larger pots : the
greater part- of the
earth is renewed, and
the roots pruned.

Second intermediate shifl-

Fruiting- House.

Between this period and
September 15, the
plants, after having
been shifted into full-
sized pots, are intro-
duced from the succes-
sion-ptt.

Aug. 1.

1849.
Oct. 1.

1850.
Feb. 15.

Large offsets of the
Queen pine - dibbled
into the tan.

The above potted or re-
potted ; the earth or
tan is shaken away,
and the roots pruned,

' the. pots transferred
•in-to hotbeds or pits.

First intermediate shift-
ing.
Second intermediate shift-
ing.

Succession-Pit.

Plants introduced from the
nursing-pit ; but not
shifted unless intend-
ed for early spring
forcing.

Fr mting-House.

Plants shifted for the last
•time, and introduced
from the succession-
pit.

ISol.
March.

1851.
June.

Aug.

The surface of the pots ai^
top-dressed.

Fruit ripens, and
course concludes.

the

1850.
Sept.
Dec.

( Fruit ripens, and th(
( course concludes.

380

FORCING GARDEN.

The MELONRY-^a department deriving its name from
the melon, the principal plant cultivated in it— is an
important appendage of the forcing garden. After no-
ticing some of the most necessary apparatus employed
in it, we shall treat of the melon, cucumber, and gourd,
and their cultur-e respectively.

The common hothed frame is most usually employed ;
and it is so well knoAvn as scarcely to require descrip-
tion. It is a rectangular box, with sliding sashes, which
may be single, in pairs, or in threes. The length of the
sash is generally five or six feet, and its breadth about
three feet and a half. The back of tke frame is about
double the height of the front, it being intended that
the slope should be set towards the south. When used,
it- is placed on a bed of fermenting vegetable matter,
from three to six feet in thickness, according to the
purpose to which it is to be applied, or the severity of
the season. Stable-litter is the fermenting material
most commonly employed ; but tree-leaves, exhausted
tanners' bark, or flax-dressers' refuse, are also used.
Tree-leaves, when moderately dry and well trodden, are
more equable in their fermenting heat, and retain it
longer than the ather materials mentioned. If a layer,
half a foot thick, of bark be placed over a bed of leaves
five feet thick, a gentle and uniform temperature may
be commanded for several successive months.

The Alderston Melon Pit, of which the following is

Fi- 47.

THE MELONRY.

381

a section, is partly above and partly below ground. The
front and back walls, a a, are of brick, supported on
piers or stone pillars ; h h are spaces inclosed witbin
outer walls, and covered with boards to contain linings,
which communicate, without, any object intervening,
with the fermenting substances in the interior of the pit.
These spaces may be two feet wide : the interior pit
should seldom be more than six feet in breadth. A
principal quality of this structure is its neatness and
cleanliness. Caled.- Hortic, Mem.^ vol. ii., p. 217.

West's Melon and Cucumber Pit is .also built of brick.
It has in this- figure a chamber a to contain the dung ;

Fia;. 48.

h, a sq.uare opening by which the dung is introduced ;
c, rafters of wood or cast-iron, sustaining the interior
soil; d d, openings to permit the ascent of steam. The
walls are nine inches thick, and the pit may be seven
feet wide inside measure. Lond, Sort, Trans.^ vol. iv.,
p. 220.

Atkinson's Melon Pit, as given on next page, is a brick
structure. The back wall a and the end wall are four
inches thick, built in the pigeon-hole fashion, that is, with
square interstices between the bricks. The front wall
h is double ; the interior portion is brick in bed, the ex-
terior brick on edge, with piers under each rafter. The
included space communicates with the inside of the
33

382 FORCING GARDEN.

bed c. The pit d is filled with fermenting litter or tan-
ners' bark; e e are spaces for linings. This pit, ac-

Fig, 49.

cording to the experience of the Horticultural Society
of -London, Ims been found "far superior to any other
yet constructed.'' Tr^^/js., vol. vi., p. 373. Sometimes
the whole is formed of wood, or sometimes only the
part above ground.

The extent of the" melonry must depend upon the
size of the giirden, and the amount of the demand.
Where there is a large family, and especially where
pine-apples are cultivated (to the forwarding of wdiich
some portion of the melonry may 'frequently be aux-
iliary), sixty or seventy sashes may be considered as a
moderate coniplement.

The Melon ( Cucumis 3IeIo) has long been cultivated
in Britain, but the period of its introduction' and its
native country are not well ascertained. TJbe plant is
a tender annual, requiring considerable care and skill
to rear it in perfection ; but it repays the labors of the
horticulturist by affording a large, and to most persons
a highly palatable, fruit. The varieties are numerous,
and, from their tendency to sport or Vary, are "rather
fugitive in their duration. Many of the old favorites
have disappeared, and those at present in vogue will
doubtless take the same course, or will at least assume

THE MELON-RY. 388

new forms, -wEilo they retain their old names. In these
circumstances, it is deemed unnecessary to enter into
minute description, or to do more than give a list of the
sorts at preaent best deserving of cultivation. It may
be premised that they all belong to the species usually
called the Musk Melon. The Water Melon {Cueurhita
Citrullus) appertains to another genus, and is seldom
reared in this Country except as a curiosity.

Early Cantaloupe. Green Hoosainec Persian.

Scarlet-fleshed Cantaloupe. Golden Kock.

Beecliwood. ' Silver Eock.

Smooth Scarlet-fleshed- CepUalonian.

Duke of Bedford, grecn-fleslied. Kassaba, green-fleshed.

Green-fleshed Egyptian. Sweet Melon- of Ispahan.

Green-fleshed Italian. Winter Grecian.

It is important that no seeds but such as have been
procured from approved genuine specimen's of the seve-
ral sorts should be sown. In general, the fresher or
more recent that garden seeds are, the better; but the
case is different with the melon. Here it is desirable
that the seeds should have been kept in a dry state for
a year or two : for it is found that plants produced from
recent seeds push too vigorously, sending their shoots to
a great length before they show fi single fruit ; while
those from old- seeds are less luxuriant in growth, but
more fruitful.

The melon succeeds best in a strong rich soil. A com-
post, formed of two-thirds of rotted turf, and one-third
of old cow-dung, will be found very suitable. This
should be prepared for a year at least before it be em-
ployed in the melon frame..

There are generally several, perhaps three, succes-
sive crops of melons raised in large gardens. It is sel-

384 FORCING GARDEN.

dom expedient to sott before, the middle or end of
January, and sometimes it is soon enough a month
later. A seed-bed capable of receiving a frame with
a single sash is previously prepared. This bed., com-
posed of fermenting stable-litter, should be of consider-
able thickness, perhaps about fiv-e feet. Immediately
upon its formation, the frame and sash are placed on
it, and they are kept close till the heat begin to rise,
when the hot vapor is permitted to escape. Three or
four days after the bed has been formed, it is covered
over to the depth of three inches with earth prepared
beforehand. Rich, light, dry earth, is best adapted for
this purpose ; and, that it may be dry enough, it is pro-
per to use such as may have been protected from rain
during winter. A few small flower-pots are filled with
the same earth, and * kept in the hotbed, that the soil
in them may acquire a proper temperature. The seeds
are then sown in the flower-pots, and covered half an
inch deep; after which the pots are plunged a. little
way into the earth of the bed.

AVhen hot vapor rises copiously, fresh air is admit-
ted by raising the sash a little. The frame is covered
every evening at sunset with mats, and is again ex-
posed in the morning about nine o'clock, sooner or
later, according to the state of the weather. A single
mat is sufficient at first, as the heat in the bed is gene-
rally strong. In two or three days after the seed has
been sown, the plants appear, when the glasses are
raised a little, to admit fresh air, and permit the escape
of vapor. Unless this be done, the plants are apt
either to damp off" or become yellow and sickly. To
guard against the casualties of the season, and the
chances of miscarriage, it is proper to make two other

THE MELONRY. 385

sowings at short intervals, so that, if any accident be-
fall the first plants, the others may supply their place.
Two or three days after the plants have come up, they
are transplanted into other small pots, only two or
three being put into each pot. If the earth be very
dry, it is now moistened with a little slightly tepid
water. The pots are then plunged into the earth, and
much care and watchfulness are employed to prevent
the roots from being scorched. When the transplanted
seedlings begin to grow, they' are watered occasionally
in the warmest part of the day. As the heat of the
hotbed declines, it is supported by linings of fermenting
litter, applied from time to time, around its outer sides.
The lining should not exceed fifteen or eighteen inches
in thickness, and should rise above the level of the bed
upon the sides of the frame.

About a month after the seeds have been sown, hot-
beds or pits are prepared for the reception of the young
plants. For the first crop, it is, generally found that
hotbeds are preferable. These are formed about three
feet and a half thick, and of such extent as to receive
several frames of two or three lights each. The same
precautions with respect to vapor, and other matters
connected with the fermentation, are observed as in the
seed-bed. When the- violence of the heat has begun to
subside, the surface of the bed is covered, to the depth
of two. inches, with dry, light earth; and under the
centre of each sash a conical heap of- the same soil" is
formed to the height of ten inches. By the following
day, the earth generally acquires a sufficient warmth,
and. the bed is ready for the reception of the plants.
The pots containing the young plants should be well
watered the day previous to their being ridged out, to

33*

386 FORCING GARDEN.

make the ball adhere together, and come out of the pot
entire. After the tops of the hillocks of earth have been
flattened a little in the centre of each, a hole is made
capable of containing one of the balls of earth which
is to be turiied out of the pots. Some of the pots con-
taining the strongest plants are selected, and the young
melon plants are plunged out, with balls entire, into
the ridges or hillocks already .mentioned. After this
operation has been performed,, they receive a gentle
watering. The sashes are replaced, and for some time,
unless ;the vapor be strong, little air is given. Care is
taken to prevent the tender fibres from being scorched.
When the roots begin to show themselves through the
surface of the hillocks, a quantity of fresh earth is ap-
plied all around them, and in a week or in a fortnight
after, the whole surface of the bed is covered nearly as
high as the tdp of the hills.

"When the plants have got two or three of their rough
or perfect leaves, the top of the stalklet, which now be-
gins to elangate, is pinched off, and from .the axillae of
the leaves lateral shoots are soon shot forth. These
are fastened down with pegs, and are so disposed as
regularly to cover the surface of the bed.. These- late-
rals will sometimes show flowers at the second or third
joints; if they do not, they are topped in their turn,
and afford other laterals, which seldom fail to be fruit-
ful. As these runners advance, they are trained along
the^ surface, and all weak, useless shoots are removed.
This should be done repeatedly at successive intervals,-
as it is found injunous-to cut out a- great quantity of
shoots and foliage at one time. No pjant, as has been
shown by Mr. Knight {Hortic. Trans. ^ vol. i.), is more
beholden to its leaves, both as respects health and fla-

THE MELONRY. 387

vor of fruit, than the melon. In cultivating the sweet
melon of Ispahan, that excellent cultivator never suf-
fered laterai shoots or blossoms to be produced at a
less distance from the root than the fourteenth or fif-
teenth joint, or more, above the seed-leaves. In this
way the expenditure of sap, being confined ^ to the ex-
tremity of a 'single, stem, was small compared with the
quantity formed; it therefore accumulated, and afforded
greatly increased nourishment to the fruit.

It is seldom proper to leave- more than ane^ melon on
each shoot, and in the large kinds perhaps not more
than four or five fruit should be left on one plant.
When the melons begin to swell, a slate or piece of tile
is laid under each, to separate it from the damp soil of
the bed.- During the process of growth, the fruit is
usually turned once a week, to expose all sides in suc-
cession to the rays of the sun; but, in turning, care
must he taken not to -twist the foot-stalk, as this would
probably destroy the fruit altogether. At this period
water is given with moderation, and abundance of air
is admitted. . The fruit should in general be gathered
before it be fully ripe. Its approaching maturity is
known by the appearance of a number of cracks near
the footstalk, and by its exhaling a rich odor. When
ripe, it should be taken ofi" in the morning, and kept in
a cool place till served up ; if this precaution be not
attended to, there will be a considerable deficiency
of flavor. The kind called Winter Grecian Melon
is described by Mr. Lawson {3Ianual, p. 407) as pos-
sessing the desirable property of keeping good for
several months, if suspended in a fine net, in a cool,
airy room.

The average heat required for the successful growth

388 EORCINQ GARDEN.

of melons is about 70° Fahrenheit, In the common
hotbed, this is maintained by defending the bed dur-
ing the night, and by applying linings from time to.
time. In pits. . heated by hot-water circulation, this is
easily effected at any season ; and were it' not that the
included air is apt to become too dry, especially in
winter, when much heat is required, such pits ought
doubtless to supersede the hotbed frame altogether.
At present the old methods, partly it may be from cus-
tom, are.still principally employed. It 'is unnecessary
to give minute directions respecting the management of
melons in pits ; as, in these, the mode of procedure re-
commended for hotbeds will, with some trifling varia-
tions, also prove successful.

The Cucumber- (Owcwmi's sativus)^ likes the melon, is
a tender annual, requiring, in England, the assistance of
artificial heat to bring it to perfection. It properly be-
longs to the class of culinary vegetables, being used in
salads and pickles." It has long . been cultivated in
England, where, however, its culture requires the closest
attention of the gardener. The sorts commonly grown
are.

The Early Frame. Short Green Prickly.

Syon House. Green Turkey*.

Long Green Prickly. ^ Prize-fighter.

Of these, the long and short prickly are well suited for
ridges in the open air.

The culture of early cucumbers so much resembles
that of the melon that it would be usele^ss repetition to
enter into minute details. The cucumber, indeed, is
somewhat the hardier, and therefore in summer requires
less heat ; but in every other respect the management

THE CUCUMBER. 889

of the" plants is prebisely the same. The first crop of
cucumbers is generally sown in the end of December,
or the beginning of January ; a second in March, and
a third in June. In summer, cucumber plants, after
thoy have been fairly established, require scarcely any
other attention than to thin them out occasionally, and
to supply them with water.

Cucumbers, particularly the prickly sorts, are often
raised in the warmer months under hand-glasses. A
cavity is mad^ in a border in front of a wall or other
warm place, and is filled with hot dung. This dung is
covered with earth, and two or three plants are put into
it, and sheltered with a hand-glass. They are watered
and dressed from time to time ; and by this means a
sufficient supply of small cucumbers, or girJsins, is ob-
tained for pickling.

In the southern counties of England, pickling cucum-
bers are easily raised without any artificial heat, being
sown in drills in the open ground. The earth is made^
fine and level, and shallow circular hollows are formed
with the hand, a foot wide, and half an inch deep in
the middle. The distance between each hollow is three
feet and half, and the distance between the rows iBve
or six feet. Eight or ten seeds are deposited in each
cavity. This is done in the beginning of June. When
the plants appear, they are thinned out to three or four,
the weakest or least healthy being rejected. They are
watered occasionally, according to the state of the wea-
ther. The cucumbers are not expected nor wished to
attain a large size ; they are gathered chiefly from the
middle to the end of August. Vast quantities of these
open-ground girkins are taken to the London market.
The village of Sandy, in Bedfordshire, has been known

390 FORCING GARDEN.

to furnish 10,000 bushels of drilled cucumbers in one
week. Cucumbers may be procured in a hot-house
during the winter months. For this purpose the seed-
lings are not raised till the month of August, and they
are prevented from expending their energies in the pro-
duction of blossom or fruit till they have been intro-
duced into the stove. Their stems -are then firm, and,
as Mr. Knight remarks, the plants possess within them-
selves a quantity of accumulated sap.

Gourds, species or varieties of the species of the
genus Cucurhita, may be grown like drilled cucumbers,
or trained against walls or on pales. Though occasion-
ally «eed as esculents, they are regarded chiefly as cu-
riosities, the fruit of some kinds being very ornamental.
The Succada ( Qicader, Cucurbita ovifera), or vegetable
marrow, is a very useful sort, _and in request for the
table, being eaten stewed with white sauce or mashed
like turnips. It may be raised in an exhausted melon-
frame 'or pit; or it may be sown under a hand-glass,
and afterwards transplanted into a good aspect, and
trained against a wall or trellis. The tender tops of
any of the edible Cucurbitacese, boiled as greens or
spinach, form a delicate vegetable. Melons and cucum-
bers, though requiring for their cultivation in the Eng-
lish climate the protection of glass and walls, together
with the highest degree of horticultural skill, to bring to
a maturity, at which they are very inferior in flavor, ripen
in the open air and attain great perfection under the burn-
ing midsummer sun of the United States, especially the
midclle and southern portions. Information relative to
the various kinds and best modes of culture will Jbe found
among the subjects included in the Kitchen Garden.

THE MUSHROOM. 391

The Mushroom [Agaricas campestris), though- not
properly an inmate of the melonry, may appropriately
enough, from the nature of its culture, be taken along
with the plants grown in this department. It is a
well-Tcnown fungus, a general favorite, and esteemed a
delicacy during winter and the spring months.

Mushrooms used to 1be grown in ridges or prepared
beds, in sheds, or covered with litter in the open air.
Of late years, the Russian form of the mushroom-house
has been introduced into Britain by Mr. Isaac Oldacre,
and is now in very general use. Its arrangement may
be Seen by inspecting the back part of the vinery, a
section of which is given at page 343. Two tiers of
boxes, three in each tier, and supported by a strong
framework, are constructed round the whole house,
with the exception of the spaces occupied by a door and
two windows. The boxes may be from two feet and a '
half to three feet and a half broad, and about a foot
deep. The house is supposed to be heated by hot-water
circulation. In the centre d is a, narrow pit, by which
the house may be worked by means of fermenting litter
instead of the hot water, or in which rhubarb stalks
may be forced. The windows are furnished with shut-
ters to regulate the admission of light, much of which
is not wanted ; and they are movable, to permit the
ingress of air.

Mushrooms are propargated from what gardeners call
spawn, and botanists mycelium, being a collection of
matter resembling white mouldiness, crossed with vege-
table th;'eads. It may ha obtained from old pastures,
the floors of disused stabTes, decayed mushroom beds,
or purchased from nurserymen in the form of bricks
charged with spawn. When once obtained, it may.

392 FORCING GARDEN.

like leaven, be indefinitely multiplied- and preserved.
If not to be otherwise procured, it may be produced,
or apparently generated, by placing quantities of horse-
dung and rich loam in alternate layers, and covering
the whole' with straw, to exclude the rain and air.
Mushroom spawn commonly appears in the heap in
about two months after the dung and earth have been
laid together. The almost impalpable seeds seem to
adhere to- the grass, hay, or oats, on which the horse
feeds, and to resist the action of the animal's stomach.
The. droppings of stall-fed horses, or of such as have
been kept on dry food, are found preferable for this
purpose. ^

The old method of growing mushrooms has been re-
ferred to above ; and, as it has some conveniences, par-
ticularly for those who have not extensive means, it
may be proper to- give some account of it. Horse-drop-
pings should be laid out from the stable into a very dry
place, as free from straw or litter as possible. There
they should be firmly trampled down with a man's
feet, to prevent fermentation."" -The droppings from the
horse-track of a thrashing-machine form an excellent
material in the spring ^;ime ;. for there the droppings
are kept dry, aiid are thoroughly trodden by the horses'
feet. Beds may then be formed two or three feet broad,
and of any length. A layer of the droppings about
eight or ten inches thick is first deposited, and covered
with loamy earth to the depth of two or three inches ;
then another layer of droppings of the same thickness,
covered like the former ; and, lastly, a third layer,
with its covering. The whole should grow narrower as
it advances in height. When the bed is finished it is
covered with straw, to protect it fr9m rain and from

THE MUSHROOM. 393

the parching influences of the sun and wind. In ten
days the bed will be ready, for planting or spawning.
Pieces of spawn bricks are then inserted in the sloping
sides of the bed, about four or five inches asunder. A
layer of loam is next placed over th^ bed, and the whole
is covered with a thick coat of straw. When the weather
is temperate, mushrooms will appear in about -a month
after tlie bed has been made ; but at other times a much
longer period may elapse. The principal things to be
attended to are to preserve a moderate state- of mois-
ture and a proper degree of warmth ; and the treat-
ment at different seasons must vary accordingly.

Of several other methods of raising mushrooms, Mr
Oldacre's, already referred to, may deserve to be parti-
cularized. In forniing the compost, he procures fresh
short dung from a, stable, or from the path of a horse
mill. To this is added about a fifth part of sheep-drop-
pings, or of the cleanings of a cow-house, or of a mix-
ture of both. The whole ingredients are thoroughly
mixed and incorporated. A stratum .of the prepared
mixture, about three inches thick, being deposited in
the boxes already described, is beat together with a flat
wooden mallet. Another layer is-- added, and beat as
before; and this is repeated till the bexls be rather more
than half a foot thick, and very compact. The boxes
are then placed in the mushroom-house, or in any out-
house where a slightly increased temperature can be
commanded. A degree of fermentation generally takes
place ; but if heat be not soon perceptible, another layer
must still be added, till suflicient action be excited.
When the beds are milk-warm, or between 80° and 90°
Fahrenheit, some holes are dibbled in the mass to re-
ceive the spawn. The holes arC' left open for some
U

394 FORCING GARDEN.

time; and when the heat is on-the decline, but before
it be quite gone, a piece of spawn brick is thrust into
each opening, and the holes are closed with a .little
compost. A week afterwards, the boxes are covered
with a smooth coating, two inches thick, of rich loamy
mould mixed with about a fifth part of horse-droppings.
The apartment is how kept as nearly and as equably at
55° Fahrenheit as circumstances will allows When the
boxes become dry, a little soft water may be used, but
sparingly and with circumspection, and instead of water-
ing directly on the 'surface of the bed, it is better to
spread some hay over it, and to sprinkle the hay. The
more that free air can be admitted, the flavor of the
mushrooms is the better ; but the exclusion of frost is
indispensable. If a number of boxes have been pre-
pared at first, a few only at a time may be covered
with mould and brought into bearing, the rest being
covered and cropped in succession, as mushrooms may
be in demand.

Mr. Edward Callow, in a tract on the artificial growth
of mushrooms, describes a method in which the pits are
wrought by means of dung heat. His structure some-
what resembles Atkinson's melon-pit, only the roof is
covered with thatch, and a suit of air-flues is formed
within the interior of the pit, with branches crossing
the principal bed which occupies the floor. Linings of
fermenting litter are applied on the exterior of the house
at the back and front. The atmosphere in the pit, in
the earlier stage, is kept at 55° to 65° Fahrenheit, and,
when the bed is in full bearing, about 70°. The other
details of this method scarcely differ from those of Mr.
Oldacr-e's.

CALENDAR

The instructions given in the following calendar are,
of course, adapted to the climate of Britain, where the
cold is more enduring and greater in the average, but
not so excessive as that usually experienced in the
winters' of the United States, especially those of the
northern and middle regions, where little if any work
can be done in the open air, in the kitchen or flower
gardens, during the months of January and February.
Now and then, in the latter month, when the frost may
happen to leave the earth for a brief period, the plant-
ing of some kinds of early peas, cabbages, with a few
others of the more early vegetables, may be effected. In
the more southerly portions of the Union, many of the
instructions given in the calendar for January and
February may be followed out, whilst those adapted to
the condition of things in the hot months of June and
July would require much greater modification. Seeing
the great differences presented by the American climate
during the same months in the various latitudes, we
have chosen to give the English Calendar with little al-
teration, trusting to the good common sense of the
American gardeners to make use of the valuable sug-
gestions and directions which it contains, Avith such
modifications as they may find requisite to adapt them

6yb CALENDAR — JANUARY.

to the precise seasons and circumstances, as these exist
in their several localities.

JANUARY.

Kitchen 6^«rc?e??.— Trench and manure borders for
early crops. Sow early frame peas, preferring the
white Warwick variety and early Charlton in the be-
ginning of the month, and Knight's dwarf marrowfat
about the end of the month ; Marshall's early dwarf,
early mazagan, and long-pod beans, during the first and
last weeks ; a few onions, early horn carrots, and round-
leaved spinach for early crops, on very light soils ; as
also curled parsley, if not done in August, on a warm
border; short-topped radish in two or three sowings, at
a week's interval, in the same sit-uation. ' In the last
fortnight sow black-seeded gotte, hardy green and
brown Dutch lettuce.

Plant fruit-trees in general, in open weather, mulch-
ing the trees to protect them from the drought which
may occur in 'spring. Plant shallot and garlic.

Prune all sorts of fruit-trees in mild weather or in
moderate frosts, nailing only in fine weather; wash those
trees infested with insects, with a mixture of soap-suds,
flowers of sulphur, and tobacco liquor.*

'■^ We have not deemed it necessary to treat separately or at
length of the means of destroying insects ; many of the nostrums
recommended proving very inefficient. The wash here mention-
ed is perhaps the best and simplest for the stems. and branches
of wall fruit-trees. Some prefer making it of the consistence of
paint, and laying it on with a brush. One advice we would
tender to all gardeners — not to be anxious to kill the smaller
kinds of the feathered songsters, the soft-billed warblers of the

CALENDAR — JANUARY. 397

Forcing Department. — About the end of the month,
prepare for making up hotbeds for early cucumbers
and melons, at least where a pit heated with hot water
is not in use. Sow salads, carrots, and kidney-beans
on slight hotbeds. Sow peas in cold frames for trans-
planting. Force asparagus, searkale, and rhubarb, in
hotbeds in pits, in the mushroom-house, or in the open
garden by covers surrounded with litter. Give air in
fine weather, and water sparingly, to the pinery and
cucumber pit ; and to other forcing-houses according
to the progress of the trees. Attend to forced kidney-
beans and 'strawberries. Give abundance of air to the
green-house, conservatory, and alpine frame, but little
water. Continue to force roses, kalmias, rhododen-
drons, and hardy flowers and bulbs, for the decoration
of the green-house, or to be taken into the lobby or the
drawing-room. Most of these ought to. be potted and
prepared in autumn.

Floiver G-arden.—V\^ni dried tubers and bulbs of bor-
der flowers, if not done in autumn ; but the planting of
the roots of the finer florists' flowers ought to be de-
ferred till next month.

Transplant herbaceous plants and evergreen shrubs

garden, which are often suspected of attacking blossom or fruit
when they are only picking ofT caterpillars or aphides, their
favorite food. Even the common sparrow and the blue titmouse
are useful in destroying the larvae of the moths which infest
fruit-trees. In hot-houses, the keeping of the walls and frame-
work clean, by frequent white-washing and paiAting, is very
important; and much benefit results from occasionally filling
them with the smoke of tobacco-paper, and then thoroughly
syringing the plants.

34*

398 ^ CALENDAR — FEBRUARY.

in light, soils, if not done in autumn ; also deciduous
trees, shrubs, and h^ges. Lay edgings in fine weather.
Sow mignonette, stock, and other annuals, in pots ;
sow sweet peas, and a few hardy annuals, on a warm
border. Give stage auriculas and carnations abundance
of air ; but keep them rather dry, to prevent damping
off.

FEBRUARY.

Kitchen Garden. — Continue to trench and manure
the quarters for early crops. Sow beans and peas in
the beginning and also at the end of the mofith ; a few
early cabbages, to replace the last sowing in August ;
red cabbages and savoys in the last week. Sow also
early horn carrot : Dutch turnip ; onions for a full crop
in light soils,"with a few Scotch leeks. Sow chervil, fen-
nel, and lettuce for succession, with radishes and round-
leaved spinach, twice in the course of the month • small
salads every fortnight.

Plant Jerusalem artichokes, .garlic, horse-radish, and
early potatoes ; in the last week, a full crop of early
cabbages on light soil. All sorts of fruit-trees may
still be planted ; strawberries about the end of the
month. Transplant fo-r seed, if not done before, all the
brassica tribe, including cabbage, cauliflower, turnip,
■ &c. ; also Carrots, onions, beet, celery, endive, leeks,
and parsnips. Transplant to the bottom of the south-
aspected wall a few of the peas sown in November for
the first crop.

Prune apricots, peaches, nectarines, and plums, before
the buds be much swelled; also apples, pears, cherries,
gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, before the end
of the month. Finish the dressing of vines. Keep the

CALENDAR — FEBRUARY. 399

fruit-room free from spoiled fruit, and now shut it close,
admitting as little air as possible.

Forcing Department. — Piant out melons and cucum-
bers on hotbeds and in pits, sowing more for succession.
Sow carrots, turnips, and early celery ; cauliflower to be
afterwards planted out. Sow tetragonia or New Zea-
land spinach in pots. Plant early potatoes on slight
hotbeds. Continue the forcing of asparagus, rhubarb,
and sea-kale. Pine-apple plants require little air or
water at this season, except young plants in dung-frames,
which ought to be kept free from damp. Shift fruiting
plants by the middle of the month,, if not done in Au-
gust. Continue the forcing of all sorts of fruits. Those
who have not commenced sooner, and who have a small
establishment, will find the middle or end of this month
a good season to begin the forcing of vines or peaches.
Be careful to protect the stems of vines that are outside
of the forcing-houses.

Let the green-.house and conservatory havp plenty of
air in mild weather. Pitt in an extra quantity, if not
done in autumn, of cuttings of desirable half-hardy
green-house genera for the flower garden ; such as Pe-
largonium, Fuchsia, Salpiglossis, Calceolaria, Heliotro-
pium. Salvia, Verbena, Petunia, Alonsoa, Mimulus,
Lobelia, Maurandia, Tropseolum, Bouvardia, Bodo-
chiton, Leptospermum, Anagallis. Many species and
varieties of such genera are of great beauty, and con-
tribute most essentially to the rich appearance of the
flower garden during the summer and autumn months.
Sow stocks, a few tender annuals and dahlia seed, on
a slight hotbed or in pots.

Flower Gax.den. — In good weather, plant dried
roots, including most of the finer florists' flowers; con-

400 CALENDAR — MARCH.

tinue the transplanting of hardy biennial flowers, and
perennial herbaceous plants, shrubs, and deciduous
trees.

Sow in tjie last week mignonette, and several species
of hardy annuals, in a warm border for subsequent
transplanting — particularly Clarkia, Collinsia^ Collo--
mia, Eutoca, Gillia, Limnanthes, Nemophila, (Eno-
thera.

MARCH.

Kitchen Crarden, — This is a busy month. Main
crops of peas, beans, cabbages, and onions, leeks, car-
rots, parsnips, Brussels spouts, borecoles, lettuces, and
spinach, are now to be soAvn. Where space is rather
limited, some of the crops, especially peas and bean-s,
may occupy drills four or five feet asunder, so as to
permit the interlining of savoys or broccoli during sum-
mer. In ^he beginning, and also in the end of the
month, sow turnips and savoys. In the last fortnight,
sow asparagus, cauliflower, sea-kale, couve tronchuda,
cardoons, celery, and most of the culinary aromatics,
as dill, fennel, parsley. Small salads, such as cresses
and mustard, should be sown every ten days, and a row
of chervil at the end of the month.

Plant early potatoes in the first week, and a main
crop during the last fortnight ; also strawberries.
Jerusalem artichoke, sea-kale, asparagus, and peas
raised in frames, may now be planted out. Full crops
of cabbages should now be planted out, and cauliflowers
under hand-glasses. Propagate by slips the various
pot-herbs, as mint, sage, savory, tansy, tarragon, sor-

CALENDAR — MARCH. 401

rel. Fork over th^ asparagus bed, avoiding the buds
as much as possible. Transfer tetragonia seedlings
into single pots.

Fruit G-arden. — -Finish the planting and pruning of
fruit-trees before the middle of the month. Protect
those coming into blossom with the various coverings
usually employed, or by giving a little heat to flued
walls. Begin grafting in the third week ; dig and
dress between the row^s of gooseberries, currants, and
other fruit-trees, if not already done. Kill wasps when
they first appear, for the death of every individual at
this period is equal to' the destruction of a colony in
autumn.

Forcing Gurden, — Proceed with the forcing of melons
and cucumbers, giving air, and applying linings to
maintain the proper temperature. Examine pine-apple
suckers and crowns, potting those that have been kept
in tan during the winter ; repotting those that require
larger pots, and dressing the roots of such as are sickly,
about the middle of the month, shift to the succession-
pit, and give a top-dressing to the fruiting plants; turn
the tan, and add new bark to the pits, to keepup bot-
tom-heat. In the vinery and peach-house, attend to the
keeping down of insects by watering ; and promote the
growth of the young shoots by steaming in the evenings.
Graft vines when the shoots are sprung about fifteen
inches. (See page 118). Sow seeds of capsicum -and
tomato ; ^also tender annuals for the stove. Sow salads,
early horn carrot, and early Dutch turnip on slight
hotbeds during the first fortnight ; as also celery and
cauliflower for transplanting. Force strawberries and
kidney-beans ; and continue the forcing of roses, rho-
dodendron?, kalm-ias, hardy> flowers, and bulbs.

402 CALENDAR — APRIL.

Gree7i-house.—'^ioYQ -water may be given than for-
merly. Sow seeds of green-house and hot-house plants;
also the different sorts of tender annuals ; pot off those
sown last month. Shift green-house and stove plants ;
plant tuberoses in pots for forcing ; remove the forced
shrubs and plants, as they come into flower, from the
forcing-houses to the conservatory and green-house ;
attend to the alpine and auricula frames. Begin to
propagate green-house and stove plants by cuttings.

Floiver O-arden and Shruhhery. — In the last week,
sow hardy annuals in the borders, with biennials that
flower the first season ; as also perennials. Plant
anemone and ranunculus roots. Transplant from the
nursery to their final sites annuals sown in autumn,
with biennials and perennial herbaceous plants. Pro-
pagate perennials from root-slips and offsets. Protect
tulips, hyacinths, and choice flowers, from severe wea-
ther. In the last week put into heat the finer sorts
of dahlias, so as to start them, and prepare them for
propagation by cuttings and by division of the roots.
In the first week complete the planting of hardy deci-
duous trees and shrubs ; and finish the planting of
evergreens by the middle; but some of the hardier sorts
may still be planted towards the end of the month.
Likewise finish the pruning of all deciduous trees and
hedges as soon as possible. Attend to the dressing of
shrubberies, laying of turf-edgings, and to the state of
gravel- walks.

APRIL.

Kitchen Gf-arden. — Sow main crops of asparagus,
sea-kale, beet, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, carrots, and

CALENDAR — APRIL. 403

onions, on heavy soils ; also peas, beans, turnips, spi-
nach, celery, cabbages, savoys, and German greens, for
succession. Sow broccoli and kidney-beans both in
the second and in the last week ; cardoons not before
the end of the. month. Small salads should be sown
twice or thrice during the month ; also sweet herbs, if
not sown last month.

Plant cauliflower, cabbages, artichokes, sea-kale,
lettuce ; and finish the planting of the main crops of
potatoes, and also of strawberries. Propagate all sorts
of pot-herbs, and sweet herbs, such as lavender, mar-
joram, hyssop, balm, and pennyroyal. Attend to the
hoeing and thinning of spinach, oni:ons, turnips, and
carrots. Earth up cabbages, -cauliflower, peas, beans,
and early potatoes. Stake up peas; blanch sea-kale
and rhubarb in the open air, by covering with straw
or leaves, or with boxes or earthenware covers. If
some roots of scarlet-runners and of Indian cress have
been preserved over winter in dry sand, free from frost,
they may now be planted out, and will afi'ord an early
show of flowers and crop of fruit.

Fruit Trees. — No pruning or planting ought to be
left unfinished till this period; stone-fruits, in particu-
lar, are much injured by spring pruning. If vines
have been neglected, rubbing off" the buds that are not
wanted is now safer than pruning. Protect blossoms
of the finer sorts of fruit-trees on the walls.

Forcing. — Continue the ^Preparation of succession
beds and pits for cucumbers and melons, xittend par-
ticularly to the cultivation of those in operation. Sow
gourds and basil. , Pot love-apples and capsicums. At-
tend' to the routine culture of the pinei-y, giving water
and air when necessary ; keeping up the bottom-heat

404 CALENDAR — APRIL.

with linings and additions of new tan. In forcing-
houses, from the variable state . of the weather, con-
siderable vigilance is required in giving air. Keep down
red spider (acarus), in the more advanced houses, by fre-
quent syringings. Continue" the usual operations of dis-
budding and thinning of fruit, and take care to keep up
the proper temperature. As the weather may now be
expected to be mild, those who have only a single vinery,
melon, or cucumber frame, will find the beginning or
middle of this month a proper season to commence
forcing with the best chance of success.

(jfreen-house, ^c. — Little artificial heat will be m-
quired except in frosty weather. An abundaijt supply
of air and moisture is now necessary. - The gla&s should
be kept off the alpine frames, except in frosty nights.
Attend to the protection of stage auriculas from frost,
as the flower-buds are easily injured. Sow all sorts of
tender annuals. Proceed with 'all necessary shif tings
in the green-house and stove. Remove camellias, when
the flowers are over, to the stove or forcing-houses, -as
they require heat to make them form healthy shoots and
flower-buds for next season. Propagate Chinese chry-
santhemums by dividing the roots, and all sorts of rare
and fine plants, by cuttings or. by grafting. Pot off
tender annuals and cuttings of half-hardy green-house
plants, which were put in to strike in the autumn or in
February, for the use of the flower-borders.

Flower Garden and Shruhhery. — Saw main o-r succes-
sion crops of annuals of all sorts ; half-hardy annuals
in warm borders, or- on slight hotbeds. Biennials and
perennials should be sown before the middleof the month.
Plant Tigridia pavonia and fine stalks. . Finish • the
transplanting of herbaceous perennials by the end of the

CALENDAR— MAY. 405

first week. Protect stage auriculas and hyacinths from
extremes of every description of ■ weather; and tulips
from hoarfrosts and heavy rains. Plant out tender de-
ciduous trees and shrubs raised in pots. Eemove part
of the coverings of all tender shrubs and plants in the
first week, and the remainder at the end of the month.
Form and repair lawns and grass- walks by laying turf
and sowing perennial grass-seeds.

MAY.

Kitclmi Grcirden. — Sow small salads every week ; ra-
dishes and lettuces thrice during the month ; spinach
once a fortnight ; carrots and onions for late drawing ;
kidney-beans, in the first week and last fortnight ; peas
and beans, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, borecole, broc-
coli, savoys, and German greens for late crops. The
last sowing of cauliflower for the season should be about
the 20th. Cardoons may be sown from the middle to
the end of the month. Sow pumpkins and cucumbers
on a warm border in the last w^ek. Continue the va-
rious operations of hoeing and earthing-up the different
crops. ^

Fruit-Trees. — Disbud peaches, nectarines, and other
early trees against the walls ; also attend to the thin-
ning of fruit. Give occasional washings with the engine
to keep down insects. A little brown or Scotch snuiF
dusted over the trees after watering will efi'ectually de-
stroy green-fly. pick caterpillars from gooseberries
and wall-trees, on their first appearance. Mulch, if
not done before, all new'ly-planted fruit-trees, watering
abundantly in dry weather. Remove from raspberries
35

406 CALENDAR — MAY.

and strawberries all suckers and runners that are not
wanted.

Forcing. — Attend to the cultivation of the melon and
cucumber frames, regulating the air, heat, moisture,
and shade, according to the state of the plants ; keep-
ing them free from insects ; thinning and training the
vines ; also ren'ewing the dung-linings when necessary.
Continue the planting of fresh beds, raising more young
plants from seeds and cutting for late crops ; the cut-
tings producing less luxuriant but more fruitful plants.
Go on with the usual culture of the pinery ; give abun-
dance of heat and water, and try to keep down all sorts
of insects. The grape-vines and peach-trees will re-
quire attention, according to the progress they have
made, in regulating the young shoots, thinning the fruit,
and tying up the shoulders of such clusters of grapes as
hang loosely, or are of a large size. Give frequent wash-
ings with the engine to the foliage, and a good supply
of water to the borders ; also abundance of air. " Plant
out basil. Plant pumpkins and pickling cucumbers, un-
der hand-glasses, on dung ridges, or in those frames that
have been used for early vegetables, most of which will
be cleared off by the third or last week.

Green-house, ^-c. — Turn out, hardy plants about the
middle, and -the more tender at the latter end, of the
month ; retaining a part of the finest- and most showy
plants for the decoration of the green-house during the
summer and autumn, when the regular inmates are
chiefly placed abroad in the garden. Sow tender an-
nuals for succession, potting and shifting those sown at
an earlier period, and removing them from the frames
to the green-house or conservatory as they come into
flower. Continue to propagate, by cuttings, the differ-

CALENDAR — MAY. 407

ent kinds of plants that are now fit for that purpose,
potting off such as are rooted. Remove stage auriculas
to their summer quarters, "in some shady place with a
north exposure. The alpine frame will require little
more than a good supply of water, with' occasional shift-
ings, and propagating a few of the early flowering
plants. Sow soma hardy annuals, and ten- week stalks,
for late flowering. Species of Petunia, Tweedia, Tro-
p^eolum, and Anagallis ; with Maurandia, Rho'dochiton,
and Lophospermum, may bo planted as climbers against
trellises or walls.

Floiver Garden. — Sow annuals for succession ; bien-
nials in the last week, in the nursery compartment, for
planting out next year. Propagate by cuttings, dahlias,
pansies, double wall-flowers, rockets, scarlet lychnis,
and lobelias, by dividing the roots. Plant out, during
the first week, dahlias, hardy pelargoniums, stocks, cal-
ceolarias, and half-hardy annuals, protecting them from
slight frosts. By the middle and end of the month,
masses of such plants as the following may be formed
with safety : Pelargonium, various species and varie-
ties, Heliotropium, Fuchsia, Salpiglossis, Nierembergia,
Salvia, Verbena, Bouvardia, Erica, Lobelia. Protect
tulips, ranunculuses, and anemones from the midday
sun, from rain, and winds. Remove the coverings from
all tender plants in the open air ; tying up plants where
necessary ; clearing the walks, borders, and cutting the
grass every ten days ; for much of the beauty of a flow-
er garden is lost if attention be not given to these ope-
rations.

Shrubher.i/. —'Plani'mg out of tender evergreens from
pots may be continued, but any other kind of trans-
planting will be carried on at considerable risk, except

408 CALENDAR — JUNE.

in very moist and cloudy weather. Proceed with the
laying down of lawns and gravel-walks, keeping the
grass short, and the borders and walks free from weeds.

JUNE.

Kitchen Garden. — Sow peas and beans for late
crops. The kinds used for early crops are likewise best
for this purpose. Sow salading every ten days ; also
carrots and onions for drawing young. In the begin-
ning-of the month, sow endive for an early crop. In
the first w^ek, sow cardoons and turnips for succession;
and, in the third week, for a full autumn crop. Sow
scarlet and white runners for a late crop ; and, in the
"middle of the month, early cabbages, to be used as
coleworts.

Plant full crops of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, savoys,
German greens, and leeks ; ridge out early celery, and
successional crops of cabbage and cauliflower. In the
first fortnight of the -month, put out cucumber plants,
in a warm border, placing hand-glasses over them ; these
will afibrd small cucumbers for pickling. Draw and
st'ore winter onions.

Fruit Trees. — Attend particularly to the training and
pruning of the summer shoots of all descriptions of
wall and trellis trees. Standards do not require this,
except those that are trained en fijramide or en que-
nouille. Mulch and water fruit-trees and strawberries
in dry weather, desisting from watering as soon as the
fruit begins to ripen. Net over cherry-trees, to protect
the fruit from birds. Destroy insects by frequent wash-
ings and directing tobacco-smoke against them, or by
strewing snuff (the fine powder of tobacco) over them.

CALENDAR— JUNE. 409

In the first weeji, plant out love-apples in vacant spaces
along the bottom of a south wall.

Forcing. — Proceed "with planting melons and cucum-
bers raised from seeds and cutting?, for late crops. Keep
up, by linings, the necessary temperature for ripening of
the fruit. Continue the cultivation of the pinery stated
for last month ; but, if you wish very large-sized fruit,
and do not care about preserving suckers, remove the
whole suckers from the stems and roots, and apply heat
and water in abundance. Shift suckers and succession-
plants in the beginning and middle of the month, as the
state of the plants may require.

Vines and Peaches, ^fe., may have the same treat-
ment as stated last month. Little water and a good
deal of air must be given to those houses where the fruit
is beginning to ripen. Those in which the fruit is past
ought to be constantly under a system of thorough ven-
tilation.

The Green-Jioiise will now be occupied with tender
green-house plants and annuals, and the more hardy
plants from the stove, for here these last will remain
longer in flower. Shift, repot, and propagate all fine
plants, perennials, biennials, or annuals, and cuttings
of all sorts that are desirable. Sow fragrant or showy
annuals, to flower in pots during w^in4;er.

Flmver G-arden. — Take up bulbs and tuberous roots,
and dry them in the shade before you remove them to
the store-room. Fill up with annuals. and green-house
plants those beds from which the bulbs and roots have
been raised. After this season, keep always a reserve
of annuals in pots, or planted on beds or thin layers
of well-rotted hotbed dung, from which they are easily
removed with balls, to fill up nny blanks which may

410 CALENDAE — JULY.

occur in the borders or parterre. Sow perennials, if
neglected last month, to be planted out in spring. Lay
and pipe carnations and pinks in the end of the month.
Pay particular attention to the staking and tying up of
every plant that requires it, especially young dahlias,
as they are easily destroyed by high winds ; in dry
weather water abundantly, as many plants are much
improved by it, especially dahlias. Attend to the dress-
ing and cleaning of borders and walks, and the mow-
ing of grass lawns.

JULY. -

Kitchen G-arden. — Sow peas weekly till after the
middle of the month, when the last crop for the season
may be put in. In the last week, sow yellow turnip
for a full winter crop, and spinach for an early winter
crop ; endive, for autumn and winter crops, in the be-
ginning and end of the month ; also successional crops
of lettuce and small salads. Early cabbages for cole-
worts should be sown in the first week.

Plant full crops of celery and celeriac about the
middle and end of the month; late crops of broccoli,
cauliflower, and coleworts, in the last week. Gather
and dry medical and pot herbs; also propagate such
by slips and cuttings.

Friiit-Trees. — Continue the summer pruning and
training of all wall and espalier-rail trees, with the de-
struction of insects. All heavy or over-abundant crops
of fruit ought to be thinned, as otherwise not only are
the size and quality of the fruit deteriorated, but the
trees exhausted and injured. Plant strawberries in
pots, for forcing nexf winter. Propagate different sorts

CALENDAR — JULY. 411

of fine fruit-trees bj budding on other trees, or on pre-
pared stocks.

Forcing. — Attend to the pruning of melons and cu-
cumbers, giving air and water, renewing linings, &c.
Go on with the usual cultivation of the pinery, but
withhold water from the plants when the fruit begins
to ripen. Have the old plants with suckers on them
put into a brisk bottom-heat, giving proper supplies of
water; this will increase their size very much, and
materially shorten the period of their coming into fruit.
The forcing-houses ought to have the same treatment
as stated for last month.

In the Gf-reen-Jiouse, little alteration will take place
in the culture and management from that given for
last month; necessary attention being 'paid to potting,
shifting, and putting in cuttings, and giving abundance
of water to the potted plants, both in the house and
Out of doors.

Flotver- Garden and STiruhhery. — Take up the re-
mainder of tuberous roots, such as anemone and ra-
nunculus; finishing by the end of the first week; fill
up their places, and any vacancies that' may have oc-
curred, with annuals from the reserve ground. Pro-
pagate all the finer herbaceous plants that have gone
out of flower, >by means of cuttings and slips; also se-
lect roses and American shrubs, by layering, budding,
or cuttings. Go on with the laying, piping, and strik-
ing of carnations, pinks, pansies, and the different va-
rieties of superennial plants, as Sweet-William, pink,
catchfly, double rocket, and douhle wallflower, in hand-
glasses, or in shaded situations. Attend to the staking
and tying up of dahlias and strong herbaceous plants.

412 CALENDAR — AUGUST.

Great attention must now be paid to cleaning in every
department, weeds springing up after every shower.

AUGUST.

In the Kitchen Garden, sow winter and spring spi-
nach in the beginning and about the middle of the
month ; parsely and winter onions, for a full crop in
the first week ; cabbages, cauliflower, savoys, and Ger-
man greens, about the middle of the morith, for plant-
ing out in spring; lettuce in the first and last week;
small salads occasionally; black Spanish, red and white
queen radish, for winter crops.

Plant and earth up celery and endive. Plant &traw-
berries. A few coleworts many still be put in.

Fruit Garden. — Proceed in the training and regu-
lation of summer shoots of all fruit-trees, as directed
for the last three months. Attend to the thinning of
the fruit where necessary. Mat up, in dry weather,
gooseberry and currant-bushes, to preserve the fruit
till late in the autumn. Every exertion must now be
used by the gardeners to preserve the ripening fruit on
the walls from insects, and destroy wasp nests.

Forcing. — The same routine of cultivation in hot-
beds and pits may be proceeded in as stated for last
month. Sow, and propagate by cuttings, in the begin-
ning of the month, cucumbers, to be afterwards grown
in hot-water pits, or in boxes in the front of the pine-
stove, for a winter crop. In the pinery, most of the
fruit will be cut by the middle of the month, when a
general shifting of succession-plants should take place ;
as also a pottiijg of suckers; but these will be strength-
ened by being allowed to remain on the old plant until

CALENDAR — SJBPTEMBER. 413

the end of this month. In the forcing-houses where
the crops are past, part of the sashes may be removed
so as to permit thorough ventilation.

G-reeji-Jiouse. — Attend to the propagation of. all sorts
of green-house plants by cuttings, and to the replacing
in the green-house and stoves the more tender species,
by the end of the month in ordinary seasons, but in wet
weather in the second week. Sow half-hardy annuals,
as Clarkia, Schizanthus, Coreopsis, &c., to flower dur-
ing winter. Also begin to .propagate the various spe-
cies of the half-hardy green-house plants, noticed under
February, for decorating the flower garden in the fol-
lowing summer.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery. — Sow in the second
and the last week, on a warm border of a light, sandy
soil, with an east aspect, for planting out in spring,
Clarkia pulchella, pulchella alba, Gillia capitata, Col-
lomia coccinea, Coreopsis tinctoria, (Enothera Lind-
leyana, roseo-alba, Romanzovii, Collinsia verna, grandi-
flora, bicolor, Eutoca viscida, Leptosiphon densiflorus
Nemophila insignis, Eschscholtzia californica, &c. Sow
auricula and primula seeds in pots and boxes.- Propa-
gate all sorts of herbaceous plants by rooted slip ; lay
chrysanthemums ; in the first week take off" kyers of
carnations, pink, and pansies. Transplant evergreens
in moist weather, about the end of the month ; and
propagate them by layers and cutting.

SEPTEMBER.

Kitchen Garden. — Sow. a few small salads for late
crops; lettuce, parsley, and spinach, if. not done last
month, for spring crops. Plant endive and lettuce.
If broccoli be too strong or tall to withstand the win-

414 CALENDAR — SEPTEMBER.

ter, lift them and lay them nearly up to the neck in
the earth. Lift onions, and lay them out to win on
a dry border or gravel-walk. Lift potatoes and store
them;

Fruit Trees^ fc. — Finish the summer pruning and
training. Assist the maturing of the fruit, and, what
is equally important, the ripening of the young wood
for next year, of peaches and nectarines^ on hot walls,
with fires during the day. Gather and lay up in the
fruit-room with care the autumnal sorts of apples and
pears. In the first week, plant strawberries for a main
crop next season.

Forcing. — Take care that late crops of melons and
cucumbers be not injured by damping, from getting too
much water and too little air. In the pinery, the usual
routine of cultivation may be carried on ; in the first
week take off and pot all strong suckers, if not done in
the middle of kst month; the remainder may be taken
ofi" at the end of the month, and planted in old tan in
a frame or pit prepared for that purpose : in this way
they will be found to keep much better over the winter,
and to be better supplied with roots than if they had
been potted, which ought never to be done after this
season. Expel damp, and assist the ripening of late
crops of grapes and peaches with fires during the day.
Prune early grape-vines and peaches.

Green-Jiouse, Conservatory^ ^e. — All repairs of paint-
ing or glazing ought to be finished by the first week,
as many plants will require to be taken into the houses
by the 20th of the month; in ordinary seasons, com-
paratively few green-house plants can be trusted in the
open air after this period. Pelargoniums and half-
hardy green-house plants may be kept in frames or in

CALENDAR — SEPTEMBER. 415

sheltered situations until the end of October. Pot
hyacinths, polyanthus narcissus, and tulips for forcing.
The same attention must be given to the propagation
of half-hardy green-house plants (see February), as di-
rected for last month. Remove stage auriculas to the
winter frames about the middle of the month ; also
tender alpine plants, keeping the glass-frame shut in
wet Aveather. Early in this month replace in the stove
all succulents that may have been kept in the green-
house or in the open air during the summer months.

Flotver' Garden., ^c. — Sow in the beginning of this
month all half-hardy annuals stated for last month, if
not done at that time. Sow also the different species
of primula, and the seeds of all such pla-nts, for, if sown
in spring, they seldom come up the same season, but
if sown in September or October, they vegetate readily
in the succeeding spring. Continue the propagation of
herbaceous plants, taking off the layers of carnations,
pinks, and pansies, and^ putting them into a nursery-
bed for the winter. Pot chrysanthemum layers by the
end of the month. Keep all dahlias and tall herba-
ceous plants properly staked and tied up, as they are
very liable to be broken by high winds at this season.
The same attention must be 'given to the cleaning and
dressing of this department as directed for the former
months. Plant evergreens; make layers, and put in
cuttings of most of the hard-wooded sorts of shrubby
plants, about the middle and end of the month, as many
will succeed better at that season than if these opera-
tions were delayed to a later period.

416 CALENDAR — OCTOBER.

OCTOBER.

Kitchen Grarden. — Sow small salads and radishes in
the first week; Mazagan and Marshall's dwarf beans
and early frame peas (Warwick variety) in the last
week. If the winter prove mild, they will be somewhat
earlier than those sown next month or in January.
Prepare and make up mushroom-beds.

Plant early cabbages in close rows for spring use.
A bed of cauliflowers in the last week, to receive the
protection of a three-light frame ; or, at any rate, plant
cauliflower at the bottom of a high wall or hedge in a
sheltered situation. Earth up celery and cardoons.

Store potatoes, beet^ salsify, scorzonera, skirret, car-
rots, parsnips, by the end of the month.

Fruit G-arden. — Such fruit trees as have dropped
their leaves may be transplanted. Protect fig-trees,
if the weather prove frosty, as soon as they have cast
their leaves. Cover late crops of grapes on hot walls
with woolen nets or mats, to prevent injury from frost.
Store and lay up very carefully during the month all
sorts of apples and pears, the longest-keeping sorts not
before the end of the month, if the weather be mild;
a part of them may be placed in a close cellar.

Forcing. — Assist hotbeds and pits Avith fresh linings,
to keep up the declining heat of such as have not
ripened their crops. Late vineries and peach-houses
will still require the application of fire-heat to ripen
the wood; for if this be not accomplished, the next crop
will be inferior both in quantity and quality. Give
abundance of air to the pinery in good weather, gra-
dually lowering the heat. Prune and dress early vines

CALENDAR — OCTOBER. 417

and peaches; clean and repair the forcing-houses and
their flues ; continue the preparation and formation of
mushroom-beds.

G-reen-liouse. — Replace all sorts of green-house plants
at an early period, as many of them are often much
injured by cold rains and frosty mornings at this sea-
son. Fill the pits with pots of stocks, mignonette, and
hardy annuals, for planting out in spring, along with
many of the more hardy sorts of green-house plants.
The whole ought to be thoroughly ventilated, except in
frosty weather. Water sparingly. Begin to force
roses, hyacinths, and a few other bulbs, for winter and
early spring decoration.

Flower Garden. — Sow a few sorts of hardy annuals
in a frame, or on a sheltered border, for spring use, as
directed for- August.

Plant the greater part of the common border bulbs
about the end of the.month, with a few anemones for
early flowering. Ti-ansplant strong plants of biennials
and perennials to their final situations.

Protect alpine plants,- stage auriculas and carnations,
with glass frames; half-hardy green-house plants, such
as fuchsias, &c., about the end of the month, with
coverings of broom or spruce-fir, preferring the latter.
Take up, dry, and move dahlias and tigridia tubers in
the end of the month; pot lobelias from the open
borders.

Transplant all sorts of hardy evergreens and shrubs,
noticing in dry soils to give abundance of water. Put
in cuttings of all sorts of evergreens. Attend to the
removal of decayed plants, leaves, and rubbish from
the walks and borders.
36

418 CALENDAR — NOVEMBER.

November.

Kitchen Garden. — Sow early frame pens, preferring
the Warwick variety, and mazagan beans, in the second
week, for an early crop. Protect endive, celery, arti-
choke, sea-kale, with stable-litter or ferns; mulch as-
paragus with hotbed dung; take up endive, late cauli-
flower, early broccoli, and lettuces, and lay them in an
open shed, or in old cucumber and melon-pits, which
will pnotect them from frost, and afford a supply dur-
ing winter. Force rhubarb and sea-kale in the open
border, under boxes or cases, surrounded and covered
with well-fermented stable-litter.

Fruit gar den. ^-V\diiit all sorts of fruit trees in fine
weather, giving an abundant supply of water to settle
the earth about the roots. Commence and carry on
the various operations of pruning and nailing when the
weather may permit. Take off such late sorts of apples
and pears as may remain on the trees, and lay them
carefully in the fruit-room ; which place will require
frequent examination, and the removal of all decayed
fruit.

Foreing. — In hotbeds and pits keep up the requisite
degree of heat by frequent additions to the linings.
Cucumbers and pines, on hotbeds, will require more
than ordinary attention, to prevent them damping off
from too much moisture. Where a circulation of hot
water in pipes is employed for heating,. the necessary
temperature and dryness are much more under the con-
trol of the gardener. Force asparagus, rhubarb, and
sea-kale, in tlie mushroom-house or pits for a supply at
Christmas. Attend to the forcinir of mushrooms. In

CALENDAR — DECEMBER. 419

the forcing-houses, prune and train the trees ; dig and
dress the borders of those houses in -which this operation
'has not ah-eady been done. The forcing of vines is
sometimes commenced at this season ; but the progress
must be very slow at first: the crops resulting from such
early forcing are generally inferior in quantity.

G-reen-house^ ^-c. — All hardy green-house plants must
now be properly protected, by being replaced in the
green-house or in pits. Give abundance of air in fresh
weather, only applying heat to keep out the frost during
the night, or to expel the damp, with the assistance of
air through the day : remove all decayed or injured
leaves, watering only such plants as require it ; the
plants in the alpine and auricula frames ought still to
have plenty of air, but very little watef. Commence
the forcing of rhododendrons, kalmias, roses, hyacinths
and tulips, in the stove or in pits.

Flower garden S^c. — Plant dried tubers of border
flowers, but the finer sorts had better be deferred till
spring. Protect such half-hardy plants as were not
sheltered last month. Plant deciduous trees and shrabs
as long as the weather continues favorable. Dig and
dress such flower-borders and shrubberies as may now be
cleared of annuals and the stems of herbaceous plants.

December.

Kitchen and Flower Garden. — About Christmas, sow
a few of the same sorts of peas and beans as in Novem-
ber. Very few operations can be carried on during this
month, with the exception of trenching and digging in
dry weather ; but this ought not to be neglected.

Plant all sorts of fruit trees in mild weather. Pro-

420 CALENDAR — DECEMBER.

ceed with pruning and nailing wall trees, whenever an
opportunity occurs. Examine the fruit-room every
week, removing the fruit found in a state of decay.

Forcing^ ^<?.^Go on with the usual culture of those
houses which have been commenced, or are now put into
operation, attending to the necessary degrees of heat,
&c. ; the same attention to hotbeds and bits will be
necessary, as in the last month. Continue the forcing
of asparagus, rhubarb, sea-kale, and mushrooms, in pits,
or in the mushroom-house.

Green-house^ ^-c. — The directions for last month will
be found equally applicable for this.

Floiver Garden, ^-c. — The directions for last month
will also be found equally applicable to this. Rake and
sweep leaves from lawns and gravel-walks, repairing the
latter as occasion may require.

INDEX.

jEthusa .

Air-pfants {orchidacece)

great variety .

culture
Airing of hot-houses
Alderstone melon-pit
Almond-tree, culture of the
Alpine or rock plants
American blight

ground

plants for the .
Anemone • .

culture of the .

properties of a fine one

soil and culture
Angelica
Annual plants

hardy

half-hardy

tender
Annuals recommended
Aphis, American .

wash for .
Apples and pears, modi

storing
A'pples, best for cider

best kinds in the U. S.

best stocks for graftinj
upon

dessert, kinds recommend-
ed

great nge attained by trees

kitchen, recommended

Paradise, Doucin, and cral
stocks .

remedy against the blight
Apple-tree, culture of the
Apricots, kinds of, to be pre-
ferred .
Apricot-tree, on the manage-
ment of the
Artichokes, culture of

224
309

ib.
310
334
383
113
247
147
248
249
281

ib.

ib.
282
238
269

ib.
270
271
269
147
113

149
145

148

145

141
149
143

145
147
140

114

Asparagus, culture of

forcing of
Atkinson's melon-pit
Auricula, classes of

composts for .

propagation of

Balm . ' . '- .
Bark stove

plants
Barberry

Barbe de Capuchin
Barrenness of fruit-trees, how-
prevented
Beans, best varieties for the
U. S. .

garden, kinds, and culture
Beet, red, culture of,

sea-kale .

white
Bergamot pears
Beurre brown

d'Aremberg

Diel and Ranee
Biennial plants
Biennials, ornamental, recom

mended
Blossoms, protecting

fruit-trees
Borage .

Borecole, kinds, &c.
Broccoli, culture of
Brussels sprouts
Buchanan on the grape culture

recommended
Budding, propagation by
Bulbous, vernal plants
Bullace .
Burnet .
Bush basil

110

218
30

Cabbage, kinds and culture

211
213

382

288

2S9

ib.

239
300
307
170
223

58

183
181
196
197
ib.
129
130
132
134
268

ib.

58
237
173
176
173

77
44
264
170
239
240

171

422

INDEX.

Calender, monthly . . . 395

Camellias, cultivation of . 304

Canteloupes .... 231

Cape heaths, or ericae . . 303

Capsicum or chilly . . . 238

Caraway .... 240

Cardoons, culture of . . 220
Carnation . . . .291

propagation of . . 292

varieties and culture of . 291

Carnations, cultivation of . 291

Carrots, kinds and culture . 184

Cashaw 232

Catawba grape ... 69

mammoth ... 71

white .... 70

Cauliflower, culture of . . 174

Celery, culture of . . . 225

Celeriac, culture of . . 226

Chamomile .... ^40

Cherries, kinds of . . . 121

geans, or guignes, \^ hat . 123

Guignier, Merisier, and Bi-

garotier, what . . 124

stocks preferred for graft-
ing on .

riders or high- stemmed
trees ....

Marasca, Morello, Maha-
leb, and Mazzard

how classified by the French

best kinds in the U. S.

forcing the fruit
Cherry-house, management ol
Cherry-tree, pruning and train

ing
Chervil .
Chestiiut-tree .
Chicory .
Chive .
Chrysanthemum sinense, culti

vation of
Ciboule .
Cigar-box grape
Cions, importance of their being

taken from healthy wood

in shy-bearing trees should
be taken from the most
fruitful branches .

mode of preservmg .

the preparing of, for graft-
ing . ...
Citron des Carmes, pear
Citron, or cedrate .
Clary . . . . .
Climbing shrubs, ornamental.

lb.

ib.

125

125
126
354
ib.

124
237
155

222
207

295

202

71

41

ib.
ib.

ib.
127
355
240

, fine

Climbing shrubs,

recommended
Clingstone peaches

nectarines
Cloudberry
Coffee chickory
Colmar and Passe Colmar

pears .
Col worts
Conservatory, general structure
of the .

plants
Corbett's hot-water system an

ticipated
Coriander
Corn salad
Costmary

Couper's large red plum
Cranberries, culture of
Crasanne pear
Cress, garden, raising of

water
Crocus .
Cucumbers, forcing of

kinds and culture of

West's forcing-pit

varieties of

raised for pickling
Cunningham grape .
Currants, red and white

black
Curvilinear roofs
Cuttings, propagation by

257

94

ib.

170

224

133
172

299
305

331

240
210
240
118
169
132
227
227
285

234, 388

. 381

. 388

. 389

. 72

. 156

. 157

. 338

Dahlia, or Georgina, history of 285
culture of . . . 288
new varieties how pro-
cured . . . .287

properties of a fine one . 287

varieties of, how classed . 287

Damson plums . . . 119

Diana grape .... 72

Dill ... . . .238

Doyenne pear . . . 129

Dwarf wall-trees ... 48

Easter beurre pear
Edgings for flower-borders
Egg plant

Elder ....
Elsenburg grape
Endive, culture of .
Epiphytes, cultivation of
EriccE, cultivation of
Espalier-rails .

trees, training .
Everlasting potato .

133

252
234
170

70

222

311

303

25,48

50
185

INDEX.

423

Fan-training of fruit-trees

56

Garden,

Fences of garden .

20

enclosure-walls

21

Fennel and Finochio

238

soil, manures, &c. .

27

Fettitus . . . . .

210

internal arrangement

28

Fig-house, general management

cress ....

226

of the .

354

patience ....

210

Figs, kinds and culture .

89

Gardens, winter and summer .

248

Filbert

154

Garlic, culture of .

207

Florists' flowers, what .

272

Girkins for pickling

389

Flower-beds, shapes of .

245

Gladioli, or corn flags

2^5

Flower-garden, principles and

Glazed houses

296

national styles of.

241

Gooseberries, kinds and cul-

situation and form of

240

ture of . . .

157

soil for . . ...

249

Gourde, cultivation of .

390

two British styles .

243

Gowan's mode of grafting

walks ....

251

grape-vines .

79

Flowering plants, how to be

Grafting, propagation by

39

arranged to produce the

by approach .

42

best effects .

260

of grape-vines .

79

Flues, contruction of

315

Grapes in flower-pots

65

Forcing department

312

for wine ....

73

Freestone peaches . . 94

102

on walls ....

65

Frontignac grapes .

60

varieties and culture

69

Fruit-garden, general manage-

best selection for an ordi-

ment of . . .

32

nary vinery .

64

Fruit, protection of

69

kinds commonly grown

Fruit-trees, influence of the

against the open wall in

stock upon the graft,

England and Scotland .

ib.

with modes of obviating

33

the celebrated Hampton

mode of procuring uncon-

Court vine .

66

taminated seedlings of

great age attained by vines

ib.

best varieties

ib.

ill success in the culture

limitation of existence in

of foreign grapes in the

choice kinds

34

U. S

ib.

Mr. Knight's experiments

Dr. Underbill's observa-

for producing improved

tions on the grape cul-

and hardy varieties

35

ture in the U. S. .

ib.

means of accelerating the

Mr. Wilson's plan of pro-

bearing of, and vines .

37

tecting foreign grapes in

propagation by cuttings

winter ....

67

and layers .

38

great success of the grape

propagation by grafting

culture in Cincinnati -

68

with diff'erent kinds of

the Isabella, Catawba, and

stocks to suit various

other best native Ame-

sorts of fruit

40

rican grapes, described

69

modes of improving their

best foreign grapes for

fruitfulness by ringing,

under-glass culture in

root-pruning, &c.

57

the U. S. .

72

mode of double working

Mr. Longworth's observa-

pear-trees .

136

tions ....

73

Fuchsia

257

Mr. Buchanan's treatise

F\irnaces, plans of .

315

upon ....

77

propagation of the vines .

ib.

Galande peach

96

grafting grape-vines

78

Gansel's bergamot pear .

131

single-eye mode of propa-

Garden, proper size, situation,

gation ....

80

&c

16

planting out

81

424

INDEX.

drnpes,

pruning . . . . S2

proper soil and manures . 83

management under glass . 84

fall and winter trimming . 85
bearing capacities, how

estimated . . . ih.
routine of grape-house cul-
ture without fire-heat . 86
forcing grapes ripe at all
seasons . . . 342
Grasses for lawns ... 17
Gravel for garden-walks . 351
Green-gage plum . . .117
Green-house, structure of . 297
plants recommended . 301
Guigne-trees .... 123

Hampton Court vine, astonish-
ing productiveness of . 66
Haricots, or kidney beans . 180
Hazel-bush, culture of . . 152
Heath-house . . . .299
Heaths, hardy, list of . . 304
Heating by hot water . . 323
Heating of glazed houses by

steam .... 318
Herbaceous ornamental plants

recommended . . 259

vernal .... 264

summer .... 265

autumnal . . . 267

Herbaceous perennial plants,

how propagated . . 268
Herbs, sweet, list of . . 239
Horizontal training of wall-
trees, Hitt, &c. . . 52
Horse-radish, culture of . . 237
Horticultural Societies, notices

of . . . .12
Hotbeds . . . .380
Hotbed frames . . . ib.
Hot-houses, their principal ob-
jects, . . . .313
flues and furnaces for . 315
method of applying sur-
face and bottom heat . 322
warming with hot water,
and principles of the
apparatus . . . 323
common tank boiler and

furnace . . . 324
Mr. Rogers' boiler, de-
scribed and delineated 325
hot-water apparatus for a

vinery .... 328

siphon principle applied . 329

Hot-houses,

Perkin's hermetically sealed

tubes . . . .230
Mr.Corbett's mode of heat-
ing ... . 331
Mr. Randle's method by

tanks . . . . ib.

sun's rays, efficiency of . 332
fermentable substances
used to create bottom-
heat . . . .333
necessity of the skillful
management of artificial
heat .... ib.
admission of air to be well

regulated . . . 334
admission of light . . 335
proper pitch of roofs . 336
Curvilinear roofs proposed 338
foreign plants frequently
introduced into fruit-
houses . . . 353
Hyacinth, cultivation of . . 273
marks of a fine one . . 274
exorbitant prices of, in Hol-
land . . . .273
Dutch compost for raising 274
culture .... 275
forcing .... ib.
new varieties, how pro-
duced . . . .276
Hyssop 239

Inarching

Indian cress, tuberous
Insects, destroying of
Iris, varieties of, and cul
Persian and snake
species
Isabella grape

Jargonelle pear
Jasmine .
Jerusalem artichoke

Kale, culture of
Kentish cherry
Kidney-beans, culture o
Knight's theory regardi
age of fruits

new apples

new pears
Kohl-rube, culture of

Lambs' lettuce
Lawns, grasses for
Lavender

. 43

. 201

. 113

vation 283

! head

. ib.

. 6S

. 127

. 254

. 191

173
123
181

35
142
135
174

210
17

239

ns the

INDEX.

425

Layers, propagation by . .38

Leeks, culture of . . . 206

Lemon ..... 356

Lettuce, kinds and culture . 221
Light, necessity of, in glazed

houses . . . 335
Lilies, cultivation of . . 284
Lime, sweet .... 356
Lima beans .... 183
Lobelia, kind for flower-garden 294
Longueville pear . . . 128
Ohio grape ... 71
Longworth on the grape cul-
ture . • . . 73
Love apple .... 236

Maddox grape ... 71

Mahaleb cherry . . . 124

Manures for gardens . . 27

Marie-Louise pear . . . 131

Marigold . . . .237

Mayduke cherry . . . 121

Medlar-tree, culture of . . 150

Melonry, for forcing melons . 380

Melon pit, Alderston's . . 380

West's . . . .381

Atkinson's . . .382

Melons, kind and culture . 230

forcing of . . . 382

different kinds . . 383

proper heat required for . 388

Mildew and insects, to destroy

on fruit trees . .113
Missouri grape ... 70
Montreuil peach-training . 108

Moorfowl-egg pear . . 131

Moorpark apricot . . .114

Morel 237

Morello cherry . . .123
Mould and soils for green-
houses .... 301
Mulberry-tree, culture of . 151
Mulching, great advantage of 47
Muscat grapes . . .61

Mushrooms, culture of . .391
Mustard, culture of . . 227

Narcissus, genus, cultivation of 282

Nasturtium .... 201
N^^tarines, best kinds for the

United States . . 104

kinds and culture . . 102
mode of producing new

varieties . . . 105

protection against insects 113

varieties and culture . 102

Netted citron . . . .231

New Zealand spinach . . 208

Noblesse peach ... 96

Norton's grape ... 71

Nutmeg canteloupe . . 231

Okra 235

Oldacre's mushroom-bed . 391

Onions, kind and culture . 202

Orache 210

Orangery, general management

of the . . . . 357

Orange, bitter . . . 356

citron or cedrate . . 355

propagating and budding. 358

sweet .... 356

tribe .... 355

Orchard, site, culture, &c. . 31

Orchidaceae .... 309

tropical , . . .309

Oxalis roots, culture of . . 199

Oyster plant . . . .198

Parsnips, culture of . . 195
Parsley, culture of . . . 224
Patience, garden . . . 210
Peaches, best in the United

States . . . .100
enemies of the peach tree,

and remedies against . 101
English and French modes

•of training the tree . 106
modes of cultivating in the

United States . . 197
mode of obtaining new

varieties . . .105
modes of protecting the

blossoms in England . 112
plans of pruning for fruit 107
varieties and subvarieties

of .... 94

when the trees are to be

trimmed . . .113
Peach-house, structure and

management of . . 349
Pears, best kinds of fruit in the

U. States . . .139
fine kinds, early . . 127
late . . . .130

grafting of the tree . . 135
influence of the parent

stock upon the fruit . 136
kitchen sorts . . . 135
late autumnal and winter

sorts . . . .134
Mr. Knight's varieties . 135
summer management of

trees . . . .139

426

INDEX.

Pear tree, management of .135
Pears and apples, modes of

storing . . . 147

Pearl onion .... 204
Peas, kinds and culture . . 178
Peat-soil for flower-garden . 249
Peat, when only partially de-
composed, prejudicial to
plants . . . .249
Pelargoniums . . . 303

Pennyroyal . . . .239
Pepper grass .... 228
Peppermint .... 239
Perennials, tall ornamental . 260
Peruvian rice . . . 209

Pimpernell . . . .239
Pine-apples, kinds of . . 360
pits and culture . . 361
Pinks, cultivation of . . 298
Plant-stove, structure of . 300

inmates of . . . 306
Planting of fruit-trees . . 46
Plants requiring a peaty soil . 250
shrubby, for edgings, . 252
such as are to be wintered
under glass . . . 260
Plums, kinds and culture . 117

Plum-tree, best kinds in the

United States . . 121
destruction of fruit by the
curculio, how counter-
acted . . . .120
Polyanthus, cultivation of . 290
Pond, how to make impervious

to water . . . 247
Pond's seedling grape . . 71
Potato onion .... 204
Potato, sweet . . . 190

Potatoes, kinds and culture . 185
forcing of . . .188

varieties best known in the

U. S ih.

Powell grape .... 69
Primula, cultivation of . . 290
Propagation of plants in green-
houses . . .302

Pruning 49

Prussian grass . . . 214

Pumpkin . . . .232

Purslane . . . .237

Pyramide training ... 50

Quenouille training . . 50

Quince-tree, culture of . . 150
Quinoa spinach, culture of . 209

Radish, culture of . . . 198

\ Rampions or ramps, culture of 220

Ranunculus, cultivation of . 279

i properties of a fine one . 279

I proper soil for the beds . 280

I propagation of . . 281

I Raspberries, kind and culture

I of .... 159

j Rendle's tank heating . . 331

Rhododendrons . . . 255

Rhubarb, kinds and culture . 228

j Rider wall-trees ... 48

Rocambole .... 207

Rock-work . . . .246

plants recommended for

decorating the . . 247

Rogers' conical boiler . , . 325

Root-grafting .... 44

Rosary, management of the . 258

Rosemary .... 239

Sage 239

Salad herbs .... 239

Salsify 198

Savory, winter . . . 239

Savoy greens, culture of . 172

Scallions, mode of producing 203

Scarioles .... 222

Scorzonera, culture of . . 198
Scuppernong grape . . 70
Sea-kale, culture and forcing

of, in open borders . 215
Seed, mode of raising fruits

from ... .33
Seedling fruits, raising of . 37

Service-tree, culture of . . 151

Shaddock-fruit, culture of . 356

Shallot, culture of . . . 206
Shelter, necessity and means

of .... 18

Shrubs, deciduous . . . 256

evergreens . . . 254
in planting out, how to be

disposed . . . 259
ornamental, recommend-
ed . . . . ' 253
propagation of . . 258
Situation for fruit-garden, &c.,

selection of . . .16

of flower garden, . . 243

Siphon employed in circulating •

hot water . . .329

Skirret, culture of . . . 197

Sloe 170

Soil, best for kitchen garden 26

for flower garden . . 249

Sorrel, common and French . 237

Spearmint . . . . 239

INDEX.

427

Spinach, culture of

wild
Squash ....
Standard fruit-trees, training ol
Steam, use of, for heating

glazed houses
Stocks of fruit-trees, influence
of, upon the graft

Paradise, Doucin, Bui
lace, Mahaleb

for fruit-trees .
Stove plants .

compost for
Strawberry, male and female
how distinguished

bank
Strawberries, kinds and cul
ture of

forcing of
Succory, culture of
Summer savory
Sweet basil

herbs

marjoram
Syrian grape .

Tanks, heating by means of
Tetragonia, culture of .
Training of fruit-trees
Trenching, advantages of
Tulips, cultivation of
Turnips, kinds and culture
Turnip-rooted cabbage .

Vegetable marrow .
Verdelho grape . ,
Vernal plants .

207 ! Vinery, forcing in the early
210 vinery, when to be com-

233 menced and proper de-

49

grees of heat

348

structure of the

342

317

training of vines in the .

346

Vines, grape, sorts cultivated

60

33

Vine, famous one at Hamptoa

Court ....

66

40

great age of one

66

49

sorts adapted to the U. S.

66

306

protection of, in winter .

67

307

propagation of

77

Violets, sweet

294

167

165

Walks, garden, forming of .

251

Walls, inclosure

21

161

hot

24

166

Wall-borders ....

30

223

Wall-trees, training of .

51

240

Walnut-tree, general manage-

240

ment of the .

154

239

Washington plum .

lis

240

Water, necessity of a supply of

19

64

hot, for heating glazed

houses ....

324

331

melon ....

230

208

Welsh onion ....

202

49

West's melon pit .

381

26

Winter garden

248

276

squash ....

232

192

Witty's furnace

316

174

Woodson grape

72

233

Yair, green pear of

128

63

264

Zante, or Corinth grape .

62

nOfBRTY UBJWRf
N. C. State Coll'9f

THE END,

«*&

Dioision of Horticulture,
S. 0. Dep't of AgricnItB^, '

North Carolina State University Libraries

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