JANUARY, 1843.

CATALOGUE

NEW WORKS

PRINTED FOR

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMANS,

LONDON.

^ywx/-x^\yvx/w

N° I.

CONTENTS.

PAGES

1. GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY, VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,

AND GUIDE-BOOKS - - - - 2 and 3

2. HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY 4 to 9

3. NOVELS AND TALES ... 9

4. ENCYCLOPAEDIAS AND DICTIONARIES 10 and 11

5. JUVENILE WORKS ... - 11 and 12

C. AGRICULTURE, FARMING, AND LAND SURVEYING - - 12 and 13

7. GARDENING 13

8. MRS. MARCET'S WORKS 14

9. MISCELLANEOUS WORKS ..... - . 15 and 16

London : Printed by Manning and Mason, Ivy-lane, St. Paul's

CAtALOGtfE'OF* KEwoRKS PRINTED FOR

I. :Cfet>£v*p:iyl *olRqgyap.l^.. Voyages and Travels,
Guide Books, etc.

NOTES OF A TRAVELLER

On the Social and Political State of France, Prussia, Switzerland, Italy, and other parts of
Europe, during the present Century. By Samuel Laing, Esq. 2d Edit. (1842), 8vo. 16s. cloth.
44 The quantity of matter contained in a single volume would outweigh a dozen or twenty
common travel-books, and exceeds that of any single work which has for years emanated from
the press. Nor is it wanting in literary excellence. The subjects are all important in them-
selves, and well presented with a view to attract the reader who would take the slightest
interest in such kind of questions. Every thing is exhausted, according to Mr. Laing's mode
of exhaustation, yet nothing is overdone. His social and political investigations are
interesting from their intrinsic importance, and attractive from their racy, vigorous mode
of treatment; his political economy and his statistics have none of the dryness frequently
attendant upon such subjects, for they are all well selected and applied ; the reader sees the
object they are advanced to prove, and is not wearied by details which convey no idea of a
whole or a purpose. The composition throughout is clear, vigorous, and full of life ; the
style never stagnates; and in some of the more general descriptions, it displays a rough
picture-like power, which presents by a feu touches a general view of the country's physical
aspect." — Spectator.

JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN NORWAY

During the years 1834, 1835, and 1836 ; made with a view to inquire into the Rural and Political
Economy of that Country, and the Condition of its Inhabitants. By Samuel Laing, Esq.
2d Edition, 1 vol. 8vo. 14s. cloth.

A TOUR IN SWEDEN

In 1838; comprising Observations on the Moral, Political, and Economical State of the Swedish
Nation. By Samuel Laing, Esq. 1 vol. 8vo. 12s. cloth.

CREECE AS A KINGDOM :

A Statistical Description of that Country— its Laws, Commerce, Resources, Public Institutions,
Army, Navy, etc.— from the Arrival of King Otho, in 1833, down to the present time. From
Official Documents and Authentic Sources. 15y Frederick Strong, Esq., Consul at Athens for
the Kingdoms of Bavaria and Hanover. 1 vol. 8vo. 15*. cloth.

44 The statistics, both tabular and explanatory, are elaborate; whether they relate to
general questions— as the population, the are/t of the country, the extent of cultivntion,
the nature of the soil and climate, and the lead ing particulars connected with agriculture,
manufactures, commerce, navigation, the arts; or to matters more immediately connected
with the state— as the finances, the army, the naiiy, justice, religion, and public education ;
whilst chapters devoted to government and the cutirt give a view of the royal household, and
the different official personages, as well as of tht- state of affairs previous to the arrival of
the frtng, and an account of the constitution, such as it is. On all these points Mr. Strong's
book may be advantageously consulted, especially by persons who take a practical interest
in Greece,'' — Spectator.

TRAVELS IN THE WEST:

Cuba, with Notices of Porto Rico and the Slave Trade. By D. Turnbull, Esq., Member of the
Royal Academy of History at Madrid, and of the Royal Patriotic and Economic Societies of
Havana. 1 vol. 8vo. with Map, 15s. cloth.

MUSIC AND MANNERS IN FRANCE AND NORTH GERMANY:

A Series of Travelling Sketches of Art and Society. By H. F. Chorley, Esq. 3 vols. 31*. 6rf.

LOITERINGS OF TRAVEL:

A Collection of Sketches of Manners, Incidents of Travel, Tales, and Poetry. By N. P Willis
Esq., author of " Pencillings by the Way," etc. 3 vols. post Svo. II. Us. 6d. boards. '

THE MOUNTAINS AND LAKES OF SWITZERLAND:

With Descriptive Sketches of other parts of the Continent. By Mrs. Bray, authoress of
"Trials of the Heart," etc. etc. 3 vols. post Svo. II. Us. 6d. boards.

SIR EDWARD SEAWARD'S NARRATIVE OF HIS SHIPWRECK,

And consequent Discovery of certain Islands in the Caribbean Sea : with a Detail of many
extraordinary and highly interesting Events in his Life, from 1733 to 1749, as written in his
own Diary. Edited by Miss Jane Porter. 3d Edition, with a New Nautical and Geographical
Introduction, containing Extracts from a Paper by Mr. C. F. Collett, of the Royal Navy,
identifying the Islands described by Sir Edward Seaward. 2 vols. post Svo. 21*. cloth.

A DICTIONARY, GEOGRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, AND HISTORICAL,

Of the various Countries, Places, and principal Natural Objects in the World. By J. R.
M'Culloch, Esq. (For particulars, see page 10 of Catalogues.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF GEOGRAPHY;

(For particulars, see page 10 of Catalogue).
THE HISTORY OF MARITIME AND INLAND DISCOVERY.

By W. D. Cooley, Esq. 3 vols. foolscap 8vo., with Vignette Titles, 18». cloth.

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS,

Geography, Topography, Voyagres and Travels,
Guide Books, etc.

A SYSTEM OF UNIVERSAL GEOGRAPHY,

Founded on the Works of Malte-Brun and Balbi, embracing- an Historical Sketch of the
Progress of Geographical Discovery, the Principles of Mathematical and Physical Geography
and a complete Description, from the most recent sources, of the Political and Social Condition
of all the Countries in the World : with numerous Statistical Tables, and an Alphabetical
Index of 12,000 Names. 1 thick vol. 8vo. closely and beautifully printed, 30s. cloth.
Although the names of Malte-Brun and Jlalbi have been annexed to the present work, in
consequence of its forming a digest of all the very valuable information embraced by the
respective "• Systems'' of these distinguished geographers, yet the variety and extent of
original matter which has been introduced into its pages would fully justify its being entitled
an entirely new vtork. The Political Geography, together with the Descriptive, Topogra-
phical, and Statistical departments, have been contributed by the Editors, Mr. Hugh Smith
and Mr. James Laurie; in the departments of Mathematical and Physical Geography, thev
have been assisted by J. P. Nichol, LL.D. F.R.S.E., Thos. Galloway, M.A. F.R.S., R.Hamil-
ton, M.D. P.R.S.E., and J. H. Balfour, M.D. F.R.S.E.

NEW GENERAL ATLAS OF FIFTY-THREE MAPS,

on Columbier Paper ; with the Divisions and Boundaries carefully coloured. Constructed
entirely from New Drawings, and engraved by Sidney Hall. New Edition, thoroughly revised
and corrected to 1841 ; including all the Alterations rendered necessary by the recent Official
Surveys, the New Roads on the Continent, and a careful Comparison with, the authenticated
Discoveries published in the latest Voyages and Travels. Folded in half, Nine Guineas, half-
bound in russia ; full size of the Maps, Ten Pounds, half-bound in russia.

The following Maps have been re-engraved, from entirely new designs-Ireland, South
Africa, Turkey in Asia; the following have been materially improved-Switzerland, North
Italy, South Italy, Egypt, Central Germany, Southern Germany, Greece, Austria, Spain,
and Portugal; a new Map of China, corrected from the recent government survey of the
coast from Canton to Nankin (to which is appended, the Province of Canton, on an enlarged
scale, in a separate compartment) has since been added.

A SKETCH OF ANCIENT AND MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

By Samuel Butler, D.D., late Lord Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry ; and formerly Head
Master of Shrewsbury School. New Edition, revised by his Son, 8vo. 9s. boards.
The present edition has been carefully revised by the author's ton, and such alterations
introduced as continually-progressive discoveries and the latest information rendered neces-
sary. Recent Travels have_ been constantly consulted where any doubt or difficulty seemed to
require it s and some additional matter has been added, both in the ancient and modern part.

ATLAS OF MODERN GEOGRAPHY.

By the late Dr. Butler. New Edition ; consisting of Twenty-three coloured Maps, from a
New Set of Plates. 8vo. with Index, 12s. half-bound.

ATLAS OF ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY ;

Consisting of Twenty-three coloured Maps. With Index. By the late Dr. Butler. New
Edition. 8vo. 12s. half-bound.

V The above two Atlases may be had, half- bound, in One Volume, in 4to. price 24*.
BRITISH ATLAS OF FORTY-SEVEN MAPS,

CAHEFULLY COLOURED ; comprising separate Maps of every County in England, each
Riding in Yorkshire, and North and South Wales j showing the Roads, Railways, Canals,
Parks, Boundaries of Boroughs, Places of Election, Polling Places, etc. Compiled from the
Maps of the Board of Ordnance and other Trigonometrical Surveys. By J. and C. Walker.
Imperial 4to. coloured, Three Guineas, half-bound ; large paper. Four Guineas, half-bound.
*»• Each County may be had separately, in case, 2>. 6d.

GUIDE TO ALL THE WATERING AND SEA-BATHING PLACES OF

GREAT BRITAIN; containing full and accurate Descriptions of each Place, and of the Curio-
sities and striking Objects in the Environs ; and forming an agreeable and useful Companion
during a residence at any of the places, or during a summer tour in quest of health or pleasure :
with a Description of the Lakes, and a Tour through Wales. New Edition, including the
Scotch Watering Places, 1 thick vol. 18mo. illustrated by 94 Views and Maps, 15». bound.

THE ORIGINAL PICTURE OF LONDON :

With a Description of its Environs. Re-edited, and mostly re-written, by J. Britton, F.S.A.
etc. 28th Edition, with upwards of 100 Views of Public Buildings, Plan of the Streets, and
Two Slaps, ISiao. 9*. neatly bound ; with the Maps only, 6*. bound.

NICHOLSON'S CAMBRIAN TRAVELLER'S GUIDE

In every direction ; containing Remarks made during many Excursions in the Principality of
Wales. 3d Edition, revised and corrected }•-•--
Minsterley, Salop. 1 thick vol. 8vo. 20». clo

THE WYE AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS :

A Narrative of a Pedestrian Ramble. By Leitch Ritchie, Esq., author of " Wanderings by
the Loire," " Wanderings by the Seine," etc. etc. 1 vol. crown 8vo. with 12 highly-finished
Engravings, after Sketches by T. Creswick, 12*. cloth.

TALY AND ITS COMFORTS:

A Manual for Tourists. By M. Valery, author of "Travels in Corsica, Elba, Sardinia," etc.
1 vol. 12mo. with an Index Map, fr. 6rf. cloth.

Wales. 3d Edition, revised and corrected by his Son, the Rev. E. Nicholson, Incumbent of

CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS PRINTED FOR

XX. History and Biography.

CORRESPONDENCE OF JOHN, FOURTH DUKE OF BEDFORD,

Selected from the Originals at Woburn Abbey: with an Introduction by Lord John Russell.
Vol. 1, 8vo. with Portrait, 18s. cloth.

" This was Junius's Duke of Bedford ; it is not impossible, therefore, that the publication of
these letters may help the speculation to a new conjecture, or to strengthen former proofs.J'

Athena? urn.
THE BIOGRAPHICAL DICTIONARY

Of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. To be continued Quarterly, in Half-
volumes. Vol. 1, Part 1— Aa to Agathoclea, pp. 448, 12s. cloth.

Vol. 1, Part 2, completing Vol. 1. — Agathoclea to Alexander, pp. 456, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND,

From the Earliest Period to the Death of Elizabeth. By Sharon Turner, Esq. F.A.S. R.A.S.L.
12 rols. 8vo. 81. 3s. cloth.

The above may also be had in the following separate portions:—

THE HISTORY of the ANGLO-SAXONS ; comprising the Historv of England from the
Earliest Period to the Norman Conquest. 6th Edition, 3 vols. 8vo. 21. 5s. boards.

THE HISTORY of ENGLAND during the MIDDLE AGES; comprising the Reigns from
William the Conqueror to the Accession of Henry VIII., and also the History of the Litera-
ture, Religion, Poetry, and Progress of the Reformation, and of the Language during that

pe

e, Religion, Poetry, and Progress of the Reformation, and of the Language during that
od. 3d Edition, 5 vols. 8vo. 3?. boards.
THE HISTORY of the REIGN of HENRY VIII. ; comprising the Political History of the
commencement of the English Reformation : being the First Part of the Modern History of
England. 3d Edition, 2 vols. 8vo. 26s. boards.

THE HISTORY of the REIGNS of EDWARD VI., MARY, and ELIZABETH ; being the
Second Part of the Modern History of England. 3d Edition, 2 vols. 8vo. 32s. boards.

BLAIR'S CHRONOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL TABLES,

From the Creation to our Time. New Edition, greatly improved, with additions and correc-
tions from the most authentic Writers, printed in a more convenient form, in 1 vol. royal 8vo.
— In the press.

THE GENERAL HISTORY OF THE WORLD,

From the Earliest Times until the year 1831. By Charles Von Rotteck, LL.D., Professor in
the University of Freiburg, Aulic Counsellor, Member of the Chamber of Deputies of the
Grand Duchy of Baden, etc. Translated from the German, and continued to 1840. 4 vols.
8vo. 21. cloth.

CONTENTS.

Introduction— Of History in general.

First Boo*.— Ancient World : History from
the Origin of Mankind, or from the Com-
mencement of Historical Knowledge to the
Migration of Nations— from A.M. 1 (or 3983
B.C.) to A.D. 400.

Second Book.— Middle Ages: History from
the Great Migration of Nations until the
Discovery of both Indies and the Reforma-

Third Booh.— Modern History, First Part:
History from the Discovery of America until
the French Revolution— from A.D. 1492 to
1789.

Fourth Book.— Modern History, Second Part:
From the Commencement of the French
Revolution to the Present Time— 1789 to
1840.

Appendix.— Containing a general View of the
rincipal Events from the Foundation of the
oly Alliance till the last French Revolu-

I

lion" (1830).

tiou-from A.D. 400 to 1500.

*,* Each volume contains a Table of Synchronal Events.

LIFE OF FREDERICK THE SECOND, KING OF PRUSSIA.

By Lord Dover. 2d Edition, 2 vols. 8ro. with Portrait, 28s. boards.

ECCLESIASTICAL CHRONOLOGY;

Or, Annals of the Christian Church, from its Foundation to the present Time. Containing a
View of General Church History, and the Course of Secular Events < the Limits of the Church
and its Relations to the State ; Controversies ; Sects and Parties ; Rites, Institutions, and
Discipline ; Ecclesiastical Writers. The whole arranged according to the order of Dates, and
divided into Seven Periods. To which are added, Lists of Councils and Popes, Patriarchs,
and Archbishops of Canterbury. By the Rev. J. E. Riddle, M.A., author of " The Complete
Latin Dictionary." 1 vol. 8vo. 15*. cloth.

A HISTORY OF THE LIFE OF EDWARD THE BLACK PRINCE,

And of various Events connected therewith, which occurred during the Reign of Edward III.
King of England. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 2d Edition, 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Map, 15s.
cloth.

THE HISTORY OF CHARLEMAGNE;

With a Sketch of the State and History of France, from the Fall of the Roman Empire to the
Rise of the Carlovingian Dynasty. By G. P. R.James, Esq. 1 vol. 8vo. with Portraits, etc.
16s. boards.

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

History and Biography.

THE HISTORY OF RUSSIA,

From the Earliest Period to the Treaty of Tilsit. By Robert Bell, Esq. 3 vols. foolscap 8vo.
with Vignette Titles, 18s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF SPAIN AND PORTUGAL.

By Dr. Dunham. 5 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, II. 10*. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF EUROPE DURING THE MIDDLE AGES.

By Dr. Dunham. 4 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, II. 4s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE ITALIAN REPUBLICS;

Or. of the Origin, Progress, and Fall of Freedom in Italy, from A.D. 476 to 1805. By J. C. L.
de Sismondi. 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE FALL OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE;

Comprising a View of the Invasion and Settlement of the Barbarians. By J. C. L. de Sismondi.
2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF ROME.

2 vols. foolscap 8vo. 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF GREECE.

By the Right Rev. the Lord Bishop of St. David's. Vols. 1 to 7, foolscap 8vo. with Vignette
Titles, 2/. 2s. cloth.

A TREATISE ON THE ARTS, MANNERS, MANUFACTURES, AND

INSTITUTIONS of the GREEKS and ROMANS. By the Rev. T. D. Fosbroke, etc. etc.
2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH,

From its Foundation to A.D. 1492. By the Rev. H. Stebbing, M.A., etc. 2 vols. foolscap 8vo.
with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE REFORMATION.

By the Rev. H. Stebbing. 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.
THE HISTORY OF MARITIME AND INLAND DISCOVERY.

By W. D. Cooley, Esq. 3 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 18*. cloth.

THE CHRONOLOGY OF HISTORY.

Containing Tables, Calculations, and Statements indispensable for ascertaining the Dates of
Historical Events, and of Public and Private Documents, from the Earliest Period to the
Present Time. By Sir Harris Nicolas, K.C. M.G. Second Edition, corrected throughout.
1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Title, 6j. cloth.

THE STATESMEN OF THE COMMONWEALTH OF ENGLAND.

With an Introductory Treatise on the Popular Progress in English History. By John Forster,

Esq. 5 vols. foolscap Svo. with Original Portraits of Pym, Eliot, Hampden, Cromwell, and an

Historical Scene after a Picture by Cattermole, II. 10s. cloth.
The Introductory Treatise, intended as an Introduction to the Study of the Great Civil War iu

the Seventeenth Century, may be had separately, price 2*. 6d.
The above 5 vols. form Mr. Forster's Portion of the Lives of Eminent British Statesmen, bv Sir

James Mackintosh, the Right Hon. T. P. Courteiiay, and John Forster, Esq. 7 vols. foolscap

Svo with Vignette Titles, "21. 2s. cloth.

LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT ENGLISH POETS.

By Robert Boll, Esq. 2 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF DENMARK, SWEDEN, AND NORWAY.

By Dr. Dunham. 3 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 18*. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF POLAND.

By Dr. Dunham. 1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Title, 6s. cloth.

THE LIVES OF THE EARLY WRITERS OF GREAT BRITAIN.

By Dr. Dunham, R. Bell, Esq., etc. etc. 1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Title, 6s. cloth.

LIVES OF EMINENT BRITISH LAWYERS.

By Henry Roscoe, Esq. 1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Title, 6s. cloth.

CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS PRINTED FOR

History and Biography.

OUTLINES OF HISTORY,

From the Earliest Period. By Thomas Keightley, Esq. New Edition, corrected and con-
siderably improved, foolscap Svo. pp. 468 6s. cloth ; or 6s. fid. bound. London, n. d.

THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND.

By Thomas Keightley, Esq. In 2 vols. 12mo. pp. 1206,14s. cloth; or bound, 15s. London, 183?.
For the convenience of Schools the volumes will always be sold separately.

AN ELEMENTARY HISTORY OF ENGLAND.

By Thomas Keightley, Esq., author of " A History of England," " Greece," " Rome,"
" Outlines of History," etc. etc. 12mo. pp. 364, os. bound. London, 1841.
This book has been compiled in consequence of numerous complaints of the ordinary School
Histories, addressed to the author by several persons of both sexes engaged in the task of
education. They state that the abridgments arc, almost without exception, so dry and unin-
teresting, as to be utterly distasteful to children ; that they contain matter far beyond their
comprehension, and are in some cases too long to be used with advantage. In the present
Elementary History it is the object of the author to avoid all these faults. The work is
brought within the most moderate compass, and nothing is introduced intu it that is not likely
to prove both intelligible ttnd interesting to children under the age of ten or eleven years, for
whose use it is designed.

THE HISTORY OF GREECE.

By Thomas Keightley, Esq. Third Edition, 12mo. pp. 508, 6«. 6d. cloth, or 7s. bound.
London, 1839.
ELEMENTARY HISTORY of GREECE, 18mo. pp. 264, 3*. 6rf. bound. London, 1841.

THE HISTORY OF ROME,

To the end of the Republic. By Thomas Keightley, Esq. Third Edition, 12mo. pp.512,
6s. f>d. cloth, or 7s. bound. London, 1840.
ELEMENTARY HISTORY of ROME, 18mo. pp. 294, 3s. 6rf. bound. London, 1841.

THE HISTORY OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE,

From the Accession of Augustus to the End of the Empire in the West. By Thomas Keightley,
Esq. 12mo. pp. 456, 6s. 6rf. cloth, or 7»- bound. London, 1840.

QUESTIONS on the HISTORIES of ENGLAND, Parts I. and II., pp. 56 each, London, 1840;
ROME, 3d edition, pp. 40, London, 1841 ; GREECE,3d edition, pp. 42, London, 1841. 12mo.
sewed, Is. each.

THE BIOGRAPHICAL TREASURY:

For particulars, see p. 28, of Catalogue, No. II.

THE TREASURY OF HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY;

For particulars, see p. 28, of Catalogue, No. II.
THE HISTORY OF ENGLAND.

By Sir James Mackintosh, W. Wallace, Esq., and Robert Bell, Esq. 10 vols. foolscap Svo.
with Vignette Titles, 31. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF SCOTLAND.

By Sir Walter Scott, Bart. New Edition, 2 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF IRELAND.

By Thomas Moore, Esq. Vols. 1 to 3, with Vignette Titles, 18s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA,

From the Discovery of America to the Election of General Jackson to the Presidency. By the
Rev. H. Fergus. 2 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 12s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF FRANCE,

From the Earliest Period to the Abdication of Napoleon. By E. E. Crowe, Esq. 3 vols.
foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 18s. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE NETHERLANDS,

From the Invasion by the Romans to the Belgian 1
1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 6s. cloth.

From the Invasion by the Romans to the Belgian Revolution in 1830. By T. C. Grattan, Esq.
— ' i, 6s. clot

THE HISTORY OF SWITZERLAND.

1 vol. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 6». cloth.

LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT BRITISH MILITARY COMMANDERS.

By the Rev. G. R. Gleig. 3 vols. foolscap Svo. with Vignette Titles, 18s. cloth.

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

History and Biography.

LIVES OF THE BRITISH ADMIRALS;

With an Introductory View of the Naval History of England. By R. Souther, Esq. and
R. Bell, Esq. 5 vols. foolscap 8vo., with Vignette Titles, II. 10». cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE GERMANIC EMPIRE.

By Dr. Dunham. 3 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles. 18*. cloth.

LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT FOREIGN STATESMEN.
;.p. R.

cloth.

By G.P. R. James, Esq., and E. E. Crowe, Esq. 5 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles.

HISTORICAL RECORDS OF THE BRITISH ARMY:

Comprising the History of every Regiment in Her Majesty's Service. By Richard Cannon,
Esq., Adjutant-General's Office, Horse Guards.

The following are already published:—

1. The LIFE GUARDS— Containing an ac-
count of the Formation of the Corps in
the year 1660, and of its subsequent ser-
vices to 1836. Illustrated with Plates. 2d
Edition, 8vo. 12». boards.

2. The ROYAL REGIMENT OF HORSE
GUARDS, OR OXFORD BLUES-Its
Services, and the transactions in which it
has been engaged from its establishment
in 1661, to the present time. By Edmund
Packe, late Captain, Royal Horse Guards.
With Plates, and Portrait of Aubrey De
Vere, 20th Earl of Oxford, 1st Colonel of
the Regiment. 8vo. 10*. cloth.

3. The FIRST, or KING'S REGIMENT OF
DRAGOON GUARDS — Containing an
account of the Formation of the Regiment
in 1685, and of its subsequent Services to
1836. Illustrated with Plates. 8vo. 8».
cloth.

4. The SECOND, or QUEEN'S REGIMENT
OF DRAGOON GUARDS (Queen's Bays)
—Containing an account of the Formation
of the Regiment in 1685, and of its subse-
quent Services to 1837. Illustrated with
Plates. 8vo. 8*. cloth.

5. The THIRD, or PRINCE OF WALES'
REGIMENT OF DRAGOON GUARDS-
Containing an account of the Formation
of the Regiment in 1685, and of its subse-
quent Services to 1838. Illustrated with
Plates. 8vo. 8». boards.

6. The FOURTH, or ROYAL IRISH REGI-
MENT OF DRAGOON GUARDS -Con-
taining an account of the Formation of
the Regiment in 1685, and of its subse-
queut Services to 1838. Illustrated with
Plates. 8vo. 8«. cloth.

7. The FIFTH, orPRINCESS CHARLOTTE
of WALES' REGIMENT OF DRAGOON
GUARDS— Containing an account of the
Formation of the Regiment in 1685, with
its subsequent Services to 1838. Illustrated
with Plates. 8vo. Ss. cloth.

8. The SIXTH DRAGOON GUARDS. 8vo.
8s. cloth.

9. The SEVENTH, or PRINCESS ROYAL'S
REGIMENT OF DRAGOON GUARDS—
Containing an account of the Formation
of the Regiment in 1688, and of its subse-
quent Services to 1839. Illustrated with
Plates. 8vo, 8». cloth.

10. The FIRST, or ROYAL REGIMENT OF
DRAGOONS-Containing an account of
its Formation in the Reign of King Charles
the Second, and of its subsequent Ser-
vices to 1839. Illustrated with Plates.
8vo. 8». cloth.

11. The ROYAL REGIMENT OF SCOTS
DRAGOONS ; now, The Second, or Royal
North British Dragoons, commonly called
The Scots Greys— Containing an account
of the Formation of the Regiment in the
Reign of King Charles the Second, and of
its subsequent Services to 1839. Illus-
trated with Plates. 8vo. 81. cloth.

12. The FIRST, or ROYAL REGIMENT OF
FOOT — Containing an account of the
Origin of the Regiment in the Reign of
King James the Sixth of Scotland, and of
its subsequent Services to 1838. Illustrated
with Plates. 8vo. 12*. cloth.

13. The SECOND, or QUEEN'S ROYAL
REGIMENT OF FOOT-Containing an
account of the Formation of the Regiment
in 1661, and of its subsequent Services to

1837. 8vo. 8s. boards.

14. The THIRD REGIMENT OF FOOT, or
THE BUFFS ; formerly designated The
Holland Regiment— Containing an account
of its Origin in the Reign of Queen Eliza-
beth, and of its subsequent Services to

1838. Illustrated with Plates. 8vo. 12».
boards.

15. The FOURTH, or KING'S OWN REGI-
MENT OF FOOT— Containing an account
of the Formation of the Regiment in 1680,
and its subsequent Service to 1839. Illus-
trated with Plates . 8vo. 8*. cloth.

16. The FIFTH REGIMENT OF FOOT, or
NORTHUMBERLAND FUSILEERS —
Containing an account of the Formation
of the Regiment in 1674, and of its subse-
quent Services to 1837. Illustrated with
Plates. 8vo. 8t. cloth.

17. The SIXTH, or ROYAL FIRST WAR-
WICKSHIRE REGIMENT OF FOOT-
Containing an account of the Formation
of the Regiment in the year 1674, and of
its subsequent Services to 1838. Illus-
trated with Plates. 8vo. 8i. cloth.

18. The EIGHTY-EIGHTH REGIMENT OF
FOOT, or CONNAUGHT RANGERS—
Containing an account of the Formation
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CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS PRINTED FOR

History and Biography.
THE KNIGHTS TEMPLARS.

By C.G. Addison, of the Inner Temple. 2d Edition, enlarged, 1 vol. square crown Svo.
with Illustrations, 18*. cloth.

The Second Edition is enlarged by the introduction of more than two hundred and twenty-
Jive pages of fresh matter; and the work now forms a complete history of the Order of the
Temple, from the time of its foundation in Palestine, to the period of its abolition by the
Pope and the Council of Vienne. A full and interesting account is given of the establishment
of the Knights Templars in Great Britain, and of the foundation of the Temple in London.

THE TEMPLE CHURCH IN LONDON:

Its History and Antiquities. By C. G. Addison, of the InnerTemple, author of " The Knights
Templars." Square crown Svo. with 6 Plates, 5*. cloth.

SIR H. CAVENDISH'S DEBATES OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS —

During the Thirteenth Parliament of Great Britain, commonly called the Unreported
Parliament. To which are appended, Illustrations of the Parliamentary History of the
Reign of George III., consisting of Unpublished Letters, Private Journals, Memoirs, etc.
Drawn up from the Original MSS., by J. Wright, Esq., Editor of the Parliamentary
History of England. In 4 vols. royal Svo. Vol. 1 is now ready, 25s. cloth. The work
is also published in Parts, 6s, each, of which five are now published.

It has often been regretted that the proceedings of the House of Commons, during the
thirteenth Parliament of Great Britain, which met in May 1768, and was dissolved in June
1771, should, in consequence of the strict enforcement of the standing order for the exclu-
sion of strangers from the gallery of the House, have remained nearly a blank in the
history of the country. The debates of this period, were, however, fortunately taken down
by a, member of the House, Mr. Henry Cavendish, and the editor having discovered his
MSS., and obtained permission to print them, they are now given to the world. The col-
lection contains upwards of two hundred speeches by Burke, which have never seen the
light; together with a number of the most valuable speeches of Mr. George Grermille, Lord
North, Mr. Dunning, Mr. Thurlow, Mr. IVedderburn, Mr. Fox, Colonel Barre, Mr., after-
wards Chief Justice, Blackstone, etc. etc. It embraces the whole of the stirring period of
the publication of the Letters of Junius, and exhibits the feeling which prevailed in the
House and in the country, previous to the unhappy contest which took place between Great
Britain and her American Colonies.

THE MILITARY LIFE OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON, K.C. ETC.

By Major Basil Jackson, and Captain C. Rochfort Scott, late of the Royal Staff Corps.
S vols. Svo. with Portraits and numerous Plans of Battles, 30i. cloth.

THE LIFE OF THOMAS BURGESS, D.D. F.R.S. ETC.

Late Lord Bishop of Salisbury. By John S. Harford, Esq., D.C.L. F.L.S. 2d Edition
with additions, foolscap Svo. with Portrait, Ss. 6d. cloth.

THE HISTORY OF THE PELOPONNESIAN WAR.

By Thucydides. Newly Translated into English, and accompanied with very copious
Notes, Philological and Explanatory, Historical and Geographical. By the Rev. S. T.
Bloomfield, D.D. F.S.A. 3 vols. Svo. with Maps and Plates, 21. 5s. boards.

HISTORICAL AND MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS,

For the Use of Young People ; with a Selection of British and General Biography. By
R. Mangnall. New Edition, with the Author's last Corrections and Additions, and other
very considerable recent Improvements, 12mo. 4s. 6d. bound.

*,* The only Edition with the Author's latest Additions and Improvements bears the
imprint of Messrs. Longman and Co.

QUESTIONS ON THE HISTORY OF EUROPE;

A Sequel to Mangnall's Historical Questions : comprising Questions on the History of
the Nations of Continental Europe not comprehended in that work. By Julia Corner.
New Edition, 12mo. 5«. bound.

THE NEW PANTHEON;

Or, an Introduction to the Mythology of the Ancients, in Question and Answer ; compiled
for the Use of Young Persons. To which are added, an Accentuated Index, Questions
for Exercises, and Poetical Illustrations of Grecian Mythology, from Homer and Virgil.
:. New Edition, considerably enlarged by the addition of the Oriental and

By W. J. Hort. New Edition, considerably enlarge
Northern Mythology, 18mo. 17 Plates, 5». 6rf. bound.

INTRODUCTION TO THE STUDY OF CHRONOLOGY AND ANCIENT

HISTORY. By VV. J. Hort. New Edition, ISmo. 4». bound.

AN ABRIDGMENT OF UNIVERSAL HISTORY,

Adapted to the Use of Families and Schools; with appropriate Questions at the end of
each Section. By the Rev. H. J.Knapp, M.A. New Edition, with considerable additions,
12mo. 5». bound.

ON THE STUDY AND USE OF ANCIENT AND MODERN HISTORY;

Containing Observations and Reflections on the Causes and Consequences of those Events
which have produced conspicuous changes in the aspect of the \Vorld, and the general
state of Human Affairs. In a Series of Letters. By John Bigland, author of " Letters
on the Political State of Europe." 7th Edition, 1 vol. 12mo. 6s. boards.

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMATS'S.

History and Biography.

LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT LITERARY MEN OF ITALY, SPAIN^

and PORTUGAL. By Mrs. Shelley, Sir D. Drewster, J. Montgomery, etc. 3 vols. foolscap
8vo. with Vignette Titles, 18*. cloth.

THE LIVES OF BRITISH DRAMATISTS.

By Dr. Dunham, R. Bell, Esq., etc. 2 vols. fcp. 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12»> cloth.

LIVES OF THE MOST EMINENT FRENCH WRITERS.

By Mrs. Shelley and others. 2 vols. foolscap 8vo. with Vignette Titles, 12*. cloth.

ZZZ. Novels, Tales, etc.

THE NEIGHBOURS:

A Story of Every-day Life. By Frederika Bremer. Translated by Mary Howitt. 2 vols.
post Svo. 18*. boards.

" The execution of this exceedingly curious picture of life and manners «'» very f 'elicit out s
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effects; resembling, in this respect, the carefully elaborated pictures of the Flemish school,
in ' The Neighbours,' the reader will meet with something very different from anything to
be found in the English novels of the present day. Although a translation, it has all the
ease and freshness of an original." — Spectator.

DORA MELDER :

A Story of Alsace. By Meta Sander. Translated and edited by the Rev. C. B. Tayler,
author of "Records of a Good Man's Ljfe," &<.. Fcp. 8vo. 2 Illustrations, 7s. cloth.

THE JACQUERIE;

Or, the LADY and the PAGE. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. I/. ll*^6rf.

THE ANCIENT REGIME:

A Tale. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. I/. 11*. 6rf.

CORSE DE LEON;

Or, the BRIGAND. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. II. 11*. 6rf.

THE KING'S HIGHWAY:

A Novel. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. If. 11*. 6rf.
HENRY OF GUISE;

Or, the STATES of BLOIS. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. I/. 11*. Cd.

THE HUGUENOT:

A Tale of the French Protestants. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. 31*. 6rf.

THE GENTLEMAN OF THE OLD SCHOOL.

By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. II. 11* 6rf.

THE ROBBER.

By G. P. R. James, Esq. 2d Edition, 3 vols. post 8vo. II. 11*. 6rf.

LIFE AND ADVENTURES OF JOHN MARSTON HALL.

By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. II. 11*. 6<f.

MARY OF BURGUNDY;

Or, the REVOLT of GHENT. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. I/. 1 It. 6d.

ONE IN A THOUSAND;

Or, the DAYS of HENRI QUATRE. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. II. 11*. 6rf.

ATT1LA:

A Romance. By G. P. R. James, Esq. 3 vols. post 8vo. I/. 11*. 6d.

THE DOCTOR, ETC.

5 vols. post Svo. 2/. 12*. Crf. cloth.

JANE SINCLAIR;

Or, the Fawn of Spring Vale ; Lha Dhu, or the Dark Day ; the Clarionet ; the Dead Boxer ;
the Misfortunes of Barney Branagan ; the Resurrections of Barney Bradley. By William
Carleton. 3 vols. post Svo. It. 11*. fid. boards.

FARDOROUGHA THE MISER;

Or, the CONVICTS of LISNAMONA. By William Carleton. 2d Edition, fcp. Svo. 6*. cloth.

FATHER BUTLER AND THE LOUCH-DERG PILGRIM.

By William Carleton. 2d Edition, foolscap Svo. 3*. 6d. cloth.

9

CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS PRINTED FOR

XV. Encyclopaedias and Dictionaries.

*\N ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF ARCHITECTURE j

Historical, Theoretical, and Practical. By Joseph Gwilt, Esq. F.S.A. Illustrated with
upwards of 1000 Engravings on Wood, from Designs by J. S. Gwilt. In 1 thick vol. 8vo.
(1842), containing 1100 pages, compactly and beautifully printed, 21. 12s. 6rf. cloth.
" This elaborate and learned work constitutes a complete body of architecture, and gives
tuch information concerning its history, theory, and practice, as students and practitioners
should acquire, and which the amateur and general reader may wish to refer to. The vast
mass of matter is admirably arranged, put into a condensed and clear form, nnd illustratrd
with wood cuts that of themselves are valuable examples independently of the text. The
history of architecture from the earliest ages it traced through various countries and periods,
and the relations of the several styles to each other are distinctly shewn ; this portion may be
read throughout at a complete treatise. Mr. Gwilt is eminently qualified for this laborious
task, which he has executed with ability and con amore. The Glossary alone is a dictionary
of architecture sufficient for casual use, and it includes a chronological list of architects with
their principal edifices, as well at a classified catalogue of workt on the subject -• an index
completes the value of the book as one of reference. The engravings are beautifully
executed."— Spectator, Nov. 19, 1842.

ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF GEOGRAPHY;

Comprising a complete Description of the Earth: exhibiting its Relation to the Heavenly
Bodies, its Physical Structure, the Natural History of each Country, and the Industry, Com-
merce, Political Institutions, and Civil and Social State of all Nations. By Hugh Murray,
F.R.S.E.: assisted in Astronomy, etc. by Professor Wallace; Geology, etc. by Professor
Jameson; Botany, etc. by Sir W. J. Hooker; Zoology, etc. by W. Swainson, Esq. New
Edition, brought down to 1840: with 82 Maps, drawn by Sidney Hall, and upwards of 1000 other
Engravings on Wood, from Drawings by Swainson, T. Landseer, Sowerby, Strutt, etc. repre-
senting the most remarkable Objects of Nature and Art iu every Region of the Globe. 1 vol.
8vo. containing upwards of 1500 pages, 31. cloth.

A DICTIONARY OF SCIENCE, LITERATURE, AND ART;

Comprising the History, Description, and Scientific Principles of ever}' Branch of Human
Knowledge ; with the Derivation and Definition of all the Terms in general use. Edited by
W. T. Brande, F.R.S.L. and E. ; assisted by Joseph Cauvin, Esq. The various departments
are by Gentlemen of eminence in each. 1 very thick vol. 8vo. pp. 1352. Illustrated by Wood-
engravings, 31. bound in cloth. London, 1842.

A DICTIONARY, GEOGRAPHICAL, STATISTICAL, AND HISTORICAL,

of the various Countries, Places, and Principal Natural Objects in the World. By J. R.
M'Culloch, Esq. 2 thick vols. 8vo. pp. 1980, 41. bound in cloth. Illustrated with Six Large
important Maps as follows : —

1. The World, on Mercator's Projection ; with enlarged scales introduced of Canton River,
Van Diemen's Land, Hooghly River, Island and Town of Singapore, and Colony of Good Hope.

2. Asia on a very large scale, embracing every recent Survey (coloured).

3. Great Britain and Ireland, their Navigable Rivers, and completed and proposed Railways;
with Dublin Bay, Caledonian Canal, and the Thames, introduced on an enlarged scale.

4. The British Possessions in North America, with part of the United States, compiled from
official sources; with Plans of the Cities and Harbours of Montreal and the Island of New-
foundland, introduced on an enlarged scale.

5. Central and Southern Europe, with the Mediterranean Sea; the Mouth of the Schelde
introduced on an extended scale.

6. Central America and the West Indies, from the latest and best authorities ; with the Island
of Jamaica, the Harbours of Port Royal and Kingston, and the Harbour and City of Havana,
introduced on an enlarged scale.

A DICTIONARY, PRACTICAL, THEORETICAL,- AND HISTORICAL,

of COMMERCE and COMMERCIAL NAVIGATION, illustrated with Maps and Plans.
By J. R. M'Culloch, Esq. A New Edition, with a new and enlarged Supplement, containing
the New Tariff, the New Corn Law (with an Article on the latter) , and bringing down the
information in the work to September 1842. In 1 closely and beautifully printed vol. 8vo.
oJ more than 1350 pages, 21. 10s. boards.

*»* The New Supplement separately, 5s. sewed.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF RURAL SPORTS;

Or, a complete Account, Historical, Practical, and Descriptive, of Hunting, Shooting, Fishing,
Racing, and other Field Sports and Athletic Amusements of the present day. By Delabere
P. Blame, Esq., author of " Outlines of the Veterinary Art," " Canine Pathology," etc. etc.
With nearly 600 Engravings on Wood, by R. Branston, from Drawings by Alken.T. Land-
seer, Dickes, etc. 1 thick vol. 8vo. pp. 1256, 21. 10s. in fancy cloth. London, 1840.
AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF TREES AND SHRUBS:

Being the Arboretum et Fruticetum Britannicum abridged : containing the Hardy Trees
and Shrubs of Great Britain, Native and Foreign, scientifically and popularly described :
with their Propagation, Culture, and Uses in the Arts ; and with Engravings of nearly all the
Species. For the use of Nurserymen, Gardeners, and Foresters. By J. C. Loudon, F.L.S. &c.
In 8vo. pp. 1234. with upwards of 2000 Engravings on Wood, 21. 10s. cloth. London, 1842.
The Original Work may be had in 8 vols. 8vo. with above 400 8vo. Plates of Trees, and upwards
of 2500 Woodcuts, 101. cloth.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF GARDENING;

Presenting in one systematic view, the History and Present State of Gardening in all Coun-
tries, and its Theory and Practice in Great Britain : with the Management of the Kitchen
Garden, the Flower Garden, Laying-out Grounds, etc. By J. C. Loudon, F.L.S. etc. A new
Edition (1839) , enlarged and r '
Wood, pp. 1312, 21. 10s. cloth.

Edition (1839), enlarged and much improved, 1 large vol. 8vo. with nearly 1000 Engravings on
2, 21.

10

LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

Encyclopaedias and Dictionaries.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF PLANTS;

Including all the Plants which arc now found in, or have been introduced into Great Britain ;

M'cing their Natural History, accompanied by such Descriptions, Engraved Figures, and
ementary Details, as may enable a beginner, who is a mere English reader, to discover the
name of every Plant which he may find in flower, and acquire all the information respecting
it which is useful and interesting. The Specific Characters by an Eminent Botanist ; the
Drawings by J. D. C. Sowerby, F.L.S. A new Edition (1841), with a new Supplement, com-
prising every desirable particular respecting all the Plants originated in, or introduced into,
Britain between the first publication of the work, in 1829, and January 1840 : with a new
Gencrsl Index to the whole work. Edited by J. B. Loudon, prepared by W. H. Baxter, Jun.,
and revised by George Don, F.L.S. ; and 800 new Figures of Plants, on Wood, from Drawings
by J. D. C. Sowerby, F.L.S. 1 veiy large vol. 8vo. with nearly 10,000 Engravings on Wood,
pp. 1354, SI. 13*. 6rf.— The new Supplement (1841), separately, 8vo. pp. 190, 15s. cloth.

THE FARMER'S ENCYCLOP/EDIA,

And DICTIONARY of RURAL AFFAIRS : embracing all the recent Discoveries in Agri-
cultural Chemistry; adapted to the comprehension of unscientific Readers. By Cuthbert
W. Johnson, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, Corresponding Member of the Agricultural Society
of Konigsberg, and of the Maryland Horticultural Society , Author of several of the Prize
Essays of the Royal Agricultural Society of England, and other Agricultural Works ; Editor
of the "Farmer's Almanack," etc. 1 thick vol. 8vo pp. 1324 (1842), illustrated by Wood
Engravings of the best and most improved Agricultural Implements. 2Z. 10». cloth.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF COTTAGE, FARM, X VILLA ARCHITECTURE

and FURNITURE. Containing Designs of Cottages, Villas, Farm Houses, Farmeries,
Country Inns, Public Houses, Parochial Schools, etc.; with the requisite Fittings-up,
Fixtures, and Furniture, and appropriate Offices, Gardens, nnd Garden Scenery: each Design
accompanied by Analytical and Critical Remarks illustrative of the Principles of Architec-
tural Science and Taste, on which it is composed, and General Estimates of the Expense.
By J.C. Loudon, F.L.S. etc. New Edition (1842), corrected, with a Supplement containing
160 additional pages of letter-press, and nearly 300 new engravings, bringing down the work
to 1842. In 1 very thick vol. 8vo. pp. 1326, with more than 2000 Engravings on Wood,
SI. 3s. cloth.

*»* The New Supplement, separately ', 8vo. pp. 17-1, 7». 6rf. sewed.

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF AGRICULTURE.

Comprising its History in all Countries; the princij

depend, and their Appilcatlon to Great Britain and

F.L.S. etc. The Third Edition (1839) , 1 large vol. 8vo. pp. 1418, with nearly 1300 Engravings

on Wood, 2f. 10*. cloth.

A DICTIONARY OF PRINTING.

By William Savage, author of " Practical Hints on Decorative Printing," and a Treatise
" On the Preparation of Printing Ink, both Black and Coloured." In 1 vol. 8vo. with numerous
Diagrams, II. 6s. cloth.

A DICTIONARY OF ARTS, MANUFACTURES, AND MINES:

Containing a clear Exposition of their Principles and Practice. By Andrew Ure, M.D.
F.R.S. M.G.S. etc. New Edition, in 1 thick vol. 8vo. illustrated with 1241 Engravings on
Wood, 2/. 10». cloth.

A DICTIONARY OF PRACTICAL MEDICINE;

Comprising General Pathology, the Nature and Treatment of Diseases, Morbid Structures,
and the Disorders especially incidental to Climates, to Sex, and to the different Epochs of

tries; the principles on which Atrricultural 'Operations
real Britain and similar Climates. By J. C. Loudon,
) , 1 large vol. 8vo. pp. 1418, with nearly 1300 Engravings

Life, with numerous approved Formula of the Medicines recommended. By James Copland,
ysician tc

__._0ic

Seven have appeared

M.D., Consulting Physician to Queen Charlotte's'Lying-in Hospital ; Senior Physician to the

" " - ~ " f Physicians, London ; of the

Publishing in Parts, of which

M.D., Consulting Physician to Wueen Charlotte's Lying-in Hospital ;
Royal Infirmary for Children ; Member of the Royal College of Phy
Medical and Chirurgical Societies of London and Berlin, etc. Publi

AN ENCYCLOP/EDIA OF CIVIL ENGINEERING;

Historical, Theoretical, and Practical. By E. Cresy, Esq. F.A.S. C.E. In 1 thick vol. 8vo.
with numerous Illustrations on Wood. (Preparing for Publication) .

V. Juvenile Works.
THE BOY'S COUNTRY BOOK:

Being the real Life of a Country Boy, written by Himself; exhibiting all the Amusements,
Pleasures, and Pursuits of Children in the Country. Edited by William Howitt, author of
" The Rural Life of England," etc. 2d Edition, fcap 8vo. with about 40 Woodcuts, 8». cloth.

MASTERMAN READY;

Or, the Wreck of the Pacific. Written for Young People By Captain Marryat. 3 Vols. fools-
cap 8vo. with Numerous Engravings on Wood, 7». 6rf. each, cloth.

11

CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS PRINTED FOR

Juvenile Works.
THE BOY'S OWN BOOK:

A Complete Encyclopedia of all the Diversions, Athletic. Scientific, and Recreative, of Boy-
hood and Youth. 19th Edition, square 12mo., with many Engravings on Wood, 8». 6rf. boards.

THE YOUNG LADIES' BOOK:

A Manual of Elegant Recreations, Kxercises, and Pursuits. 4th Edition, with numerous
beautifully executed Engravings on Wood. II. ']«. elegantly bound in crimson silk, lined
with imitation of Mechlin lace.

VX. Agriculture, Farming, Land-Surveying, etc.

THE BREEDS OF THE DOMESTICATED ANIMALS

Of Great Britain described. By David Low, Esq. F.R.S.E., Professor of Agriculture in

re of Sweden ;
Societe Royale

the University of Edinburgh ; Member of the Royal Academy of Agriculture of Sweden ;
Corresponding Member of the Conseil Royal d'Agriculture de France, of the Societe Ro
et Centrale, etc. etc. The Plates are drawings by W. Nicholson, R.S.A., reduced fro

, . .

a Series of Oil Paintings, executed for the Agricultural Museum of the University of Edin-
burgh by W. Shiels, R.S.A. In2vols.atlas quarto, with 52 plates of animals, beautifully
coloured after Nature, 16/. 16s. half-bound in morocco.

The Work may also be had in four separate portions, as follows:—

The OX, in 1 vol. atlas quarto, with 22 Plates,
price 61. 16s. 6rf. half-bound morocco.

The SHEEP, in 1 vol. atlas quarto, with 21
Plates, price 6/. 16».6d. half-bound morocco.

The HORSE, in 1 vol, atlas quarto, with 8
Plates, price 3/. half-bound morocco.

The HOG, in 1 vol. atlas quarto, with 5 Plates,
price 21. 2s. half-bound morocco.

This u-ork, designed to illustrate the distinctive characters of all the most important Races,
or Breeds of the Domestic Animals proper to, or naturalised in, Great Britain, consists of
a series of Portraits of Animals characteristic of the different races.

In the year 1832, a grant by authority of Government, was made from the funds of the
Board of Trustees of Scotland, for forming an Agricultural Museum in the College of
Edinburgh. Amongst the objects which this Institution embraced, was a Collection of Paint-
ings illustrative of the British Breeds of the Domestic Animals. This extensive branch of
the Museum now embraces all the more essential Native Breeds, as well as some of Foreign
Countries. The Paintings are all Portraits of Animals selected from the stocks of eminent
Breeders, wherever the best examples presented themselves in any part of the kingdom.
They have been executed by a distinguished artist, Mr. Shiels, of the Royal Scotch Academy,
whose time has been devoted for upwards of seven years to the subject. The paintings have
been made with the utmost regard to fidelity of representation, so that all the essential
characters of external form may be shewn. From this fine collection the materials for the
present work are derived; and such a selection has been made from the Originals as to fulfil the
purpose of illustration, without extending the work beyond the limits proper to assign to it.

ELEMENTS OF PRACTICAL AGRICULTURE:

Comprehending the Cultivation of Plants, the Husbandry of the Domestic Animals, and the
Economy of the Farm. By David Low, Esq. F.R.S.E., Professor of Agriculture in the Uni-
versity of Edinburgh. Svo. 3d Edition, with Alterations and Additions, with above 200 Wood-
cuts, 18s. cloth.

LOUDON'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF AGRICULTURE.

(For particulars, see page 10 of Catalogue.)

CUTHBERT JOHNSON'S FARMER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA,

And Dictionary of Rural Affairs. (For particulars, see page 11 of Catalogue.)

BAYLDON'S ART OF VALUING RENTS AND TILLAGES,

And the Tenant's Right of Entering and Quitting Farms, explained by several Specimens of
Valuations ; and Remarks on the Cultivation pursued on Soils in different Situations.
Adapted to the Use of Landlords, Land-Agents, Appraisers, Farmers, and Tenants. 5th
Edition, re-written and Enlarged, by John Donaldson. With a Chapter on the Tithe-Com-
mutation Rent-charge, by a Gentleman of much experience on the Tithe Commission. Svo.
10s. 6rf. cloth.

TREATISE ON THE VALUATION OF PROPERTY FOR THE POpR'S

RATE ; showing the Method of Rating Lands, Buildings, Tithes, Mines, Woods, Navigable
Rivers and Canals, and Personal Property; with an Abstract of the Poor Laws relating to
Rates and Appeals. By J. S. Bayldou, author of " Rents and Tillages." 1 vol. Svo. Js. 6d.
boards.

SIR HUMPHRY DAVY'S AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY:

With Notes by Dr. John Davy. 6th Edition, Svo. with 10 Plates, 16s. cloth.
CONTENTS:

Animal Origin , Manures of Mineral Origin,
or Fossil Manures ; Improvement of Lands
by Burning ; Experiments on the Nutritive

Introduction; The General Powers of Matter
which Influence Vegetation : the Organiza-
tion of Plants ; Soils ; Nature and Constitu-
tion of the Atmosphere, and its Influence

on Vegetables ; Manures of Vegetable and

12

yualities of different Grasses, etc.

LONGMAN. BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS.

Agricultural Works.

CROCKER'S ELEMENTS OF LAND SURVEYING.

Fifth Edition, corrected throughout, and considerably improved and modernized, by
T. G. Bunt, Land Surveyor, Bristol. To which are added, TABLES OF SIX-FIGURE
LOGARITHMS, etc., superintended by Richard Farley, of the Nautical Almanac Establish-
ment. 1 vol. post 8vo. 12». cloth.

•»* The work throughout it entirely revised, and much new matter has been added; there
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16

THE

FRUIT GROWER'S INSTRUCTOR,

BEING

A PRACTICAL TREATISE

ON THE

CULTIVATION AND TREATMENT

OF

FRUIT TREES:

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR FORCING,

WITH

A LIST AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF ALL THE BEST FRUITS
CULTIVATED IN GREAT BRITAIN;

ALSO DIRECTIONS FOR

HOTHOUSE BUILDING,

WITH THE MOST APPROVED MODES OF HEATING BY FIRE
AND HOT WATER.

IHIS WILL BE FOUND A SUCCESSFUL GUIDE TO THE CULTIVATION AND FORCING OP FRUITS
IN EVERY DEPARTMENT, FROM THE PINE DOWNWARDS, AS IT COMPREHENDS THE
MANAGEMENT OF THE PINERY, VINERY, PEACHERY, AND OTHER FRUIT-TREE
FORCING HOUSES ; WITH SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. ALSO DIRECTIONS
FOR FORCING CHOICE PLANTS, &C. THEREIN. TOGETHER WITH FULL IN-
STRUCTIONS FOR GROWING MELONS, EARLY STRAWBERRIES, &C.

THE WHOLE WRITTEN FROM PRACTICE,

BY GEORGE BLISS.

SECOND EDITION, GREATLY ENLARGED.

LONDON :

JAMES RIDGWAY, 169, PICCADILLY.
1841.

\S4-I

LONDON:

BLATCH AND 1AMPERT, PRINTERS, GROVE PLACE, BROMPTON.

PREFACE.

IT is necessary to prefix a Preface to a work
of this nature, to give the reader such informa-
tion as may be useful during its perusal; to
explain and point out the nature and arrange-
ments of its principal parts ; likewise to duly
prepare him for what the work contains, which
is of great advantage both to the author and
himself.

It often happens in works of this sort, as
well as in many others, that quotations are made
from other authors, in order to sanction and
gloss over their own productions, sometimes of

A 2

667763

IV PREFACE.

praise, sometimes of ridicule, just as it may suit
the passage or parts alluded to ; but by caution-
ing my readers against inexperienced authors, I
do not intend throughout this publication to call
any one name in particular in question, as,
perhaps, much which has been written has been
to the best of the writer's judgment. But when
a person is about to become a fruit grower,
(particularly on an extensive scale,) he ought to
be cautious how he follows the advice of inex-
perienced or theoretical persons ; for I have read
many works professing to treat on horticultural
and gardening subjects, which are more cal-
culated to amuse than enlighten. There is a
difference between rules of treatment by which
certain effects can be insured, and hereditary
customs, (if I may use the term) by which
advantages may accidentally follow ; yet the
sticklers, nay almost worshippers, of these latter,
will not hesitate to attack the experienced man,
because, in one instance out of a hundred, he

PREFACE. V

%

has happened to succeed contrary to the advice
of the former.

But the treatment of fruit trees altogether
requires long practice and close application ;
and I intend in this small treatise to explain so
clearly the necessary treatment of fruit trees,
that every one who is able to read it may under-
stand. I might fill three volumes twice the size,
and not convey more practical information to the
reader than will be found in this small book ;
and those who follow its instructions need not
fear success, as I do not intend to speak of any-
thing which I have not fully proved. This work
will be confined to that profitable and beautiful
part of horticulture, the most leading fruits
cultivated in this country ; among which I shall
treat largely on apples, they being of all fruits
the most profitable and useful, and I mly add
the most beautiful, for the bloom in spring is
extremely handsome, and the fruit when ripe
the same. Indeed it may be denominated with

VI PREFACE.

0

strict propriety, a truly British fruit, being the
most staple commodity of the kind grown in
England ; and unlike any other, may be ob-
tained in perfection during any month through-
out the year.

It is impossible to write a book that will
apply to every particular case, and as this is not
intended as an introduction to Botany, or a
Gardener's Dictionary, I think it would be
wrong to confuse the reader with more than is
stated in the title page. I am certain there is
great room for improvement in England, were
the soils and situations properly studied, after
the following treatise. I should not speak so
confidently, were it not from a long series of
practice ; for when I say there are thousands,
and tens of thousands of apple and other trees,
in different parts of England, which have been
grafted and managed by my own hands till they
have been sent to their respective places of des-
tination, together with the opportunity of fruit-

PREFACE. Vll

ing and improving all the best sorts now in
cultivation — the confidence in attempting this
work will not be surprising.

In addition to the treatise on fruits, budding,
and the various modes of grafting trees, with
interesting observations thereon, I have given a
list of all the leading fruits now in cultivation,
both alphabetical and explanatory, which will be
found very useful to those who are unacquainted
with them.

The work is divided into chapters and para-
graphs, each paragraph beginning and ending
with the subject it relates to, without being con-
fused with extraneous matter ; and as the index
refers to paragraphs as well as pages, any subject
may be found with the greatest facility.

I now feel the greatest gratification in know-
ing that the first edition of this work has had
the most beneficial results, by causing a vast
quantity of fruit trees (particularly apples) to be
be planted in various parts of the kingdom ;

V1U PREFACE.

and what is still more satisfactory, the finest
sorts have taken the place of those of inferior
quality, which the markets of the metropolis
and most other large towns now bear ample
testimony.

INTRODUCTION TO PART II.

AMONGST the diversified branches of utility
pointed out for our pursuits, both in practice
and theory, there is none that can class with
gardening ; it must stand foremost in estimation,
and ever be acknowledged the basis of the glory
of every country ; England, then, which is not
second to any other nation in the world, whose
navy rides triumphant on the ocean, is more
indebted to arboricultural gardening than any
other country ; it is to our timbers we are
mainly indebted for the comforts we enjoy in
this highly favoured isle.

X INTRODUCTION.

The nobleman and the peasant can rest
secure in the mansion or the cot, and in peace
partake of luxuries which Providence has so
bountifully, through skilful hands, supplied for
our use, and without such security we could
not expect long to see our highly-favoured
fertile soil studded in all directions with seats
of more or less consequence, the gardens in
many instances forming the most interesting
part, and from which the principal vegetable
luxuries of life are produced.

Apart from the luxuries thereof, the import-
ance of agriculture, which has been long duly
appreciated, the scientific principles thereof,
may be likewise traced to have sprung from
gardening ; and when blended together, we may
trace not only all the blessings we possess, and
comforts we enjoy, but also health, riches,
and prosperity ; nay more, not only has agricul-
ture a right to claim gardening for its foundation,
but every art, trade and profession, indeed every

INTRODUCTION. XI

individual article of life, may be traced to the
same source.

With a view to avoid confusion, which often
occurs by subjects of this nature, following in
one continued narrative, I have also arranged
the second part in chapters and paragraphs, so
that the reader may refer with ease to any
subject he may have immediate cause to consult.
The paragraphs, it will be perceived, are for the
most part concise, at the same time giving
ample instructions on each subject under
separate heads.

The chapters, as a whole, will contain a suf-
ficiently elaborate account of the principal fruits
for forcing, in which their general management
will be so explained as to render the contents
not only of use to the practical man as a refer-
ence for his general guide, but will also, by the
clearness of the rules laid down, be found of
such service to young practitioners in gardening,
and even to the amateur, that by perseverance
and application they may attain the height of

Xll INTRODUCTION.

their profession as fruit-growers in the forcing
departments, from the pine down to the straw-
berry .

The forcing and management of grapes, and
such other tree fruits which are best suited to
the forcing house, is clearly explained, with
some useful remarks relative to the stocks which
peaches, nectarines, &c., should be budded
upon, when they are intended for forcing,
which I would impress on the minds of such
of my readers who would wish to excel in the
profession, not to pass over too lightly.

As this is intended as a general guide to the
forcing fruit-grower, not any one thing of im-
portance has been omitted, in order to render the
work as intelligible and useful as possible, not
neglecting or rejecting the ancient for the
modern, nor the modern for the ancient.

While I am writing from an extensive prac-
tical knowledge on these subject, let me avail
myself of this opportunity to confess that since
the first publication of the Fruit Grower's In-

INTRODUCTION. Xlll

structor, which was my first essay on these
matters, that I am under great obligations to
many eminent authors, and more particularly to-
those friends in the horticultural world who have
furnished me privately with invaluable infor-
mation on very many important subjects relative
to gardening ; at the same time, should I differ
from any of my gardening friends, I trust they
will not consider it done wilfully to offend, or
discourage, but having had such vast opportunities
to put anything connected with the subject to the
test, I think I should act wrong to flatter any one
by stating as authentic in this work anything
which has been merely experimental, and which
cannot be supported by tried practice, and
knowledge derived from a fundamental source.

My having for some years past been engaged
in suggesting alterations, and improvements in
different parts of the country, it has brought
me into contact with men of the first abilities as
regards gardening pursuits, and has led me to
a field for great observation, which greatly

XIV INTRODUCTION.

stimulated me to write these sheets ; although
nothing but a long and great former practice,
attended with great application on my own part,
could have given me confidence to attempt a
work of this nature, and through which means
I am enabled to form a contrast between ancient
and modern improvements, and to recommend
such portions of each that may lead to benefi-
cial results and ultimate success.

INDEX.

Page Par.

ON the Propagation of Apples . .11

Quartering Stocks . . .42

Grafting . . . . .73

Tying Grafts . . . .124

Management of Grafts . . . 15 5

Snagging of Grafts . . .166

Pruning and Management while in the Nursery. 17 7
Observations before the general cultivation of Apples 22 8
Cultivation of Dwarf Apples . . 23 9

Directions for planting in bad soils . 25 10

Cultivation of Standard Apples . 26 11

Pruning of Dwarf Apples . . 28 12

Pruning of Standard Apples . 32 13

Pruning of Trained Apples, with Observations . 34 14
Budding of Apples . . . . 35 15

Description of Budding . . .37 16

Untying Buds . . . . 40 17

Heading down Stocks which are Budded . 40 18

Tying and Suckering of Buds . 41 19

Observations before the Explanatory List of Sorts 41 20

XVI INDEX.

Page Par.
EXPLANATORY UST OF SORTS.

Kibston Pippin . . , . 42 21

Court of Wyck Pippin . . . 42 22

Scarlet Nonpareil . . . 43 23

Old Nonpareil . . . . . 43 24

Downton Pippin . . . 43 25

Sykehouse Apple . . 43 26

Yellow Ingestry Pippin . . . 44 27

Hick's Fancy .... 44 28

Old Golden Pippin . . . 44 29

Franklin's Golden Pippin . . . 45 30

Early Oslin Apple . . . 45 31

Scarlet Pearmain . . . . 45 32

Royal Pearmain . . . 45 33

Margaret Apple . . . . 46 34

Duchess of Oldenburgh . . . 46 35

Golden Reinet . . . . 46 36

King of the Pippins . . . 46 37

Wellington Apple ." . • . . 46 38

Kerry Pippin . . . . 47 39

Wheeler's Russet . . . . 47 40

Powell's Russet . . . . 47 41

Devonshire Whitesour . . . 47 42

Margell . . . . 47 43

Cristy's Pippin . . . . 48 44

Beauty of Kent . . . . 48 45

Emperor Alexander . . . 48 46

Keswick Codlin . . . 48 47

Luccomb's Seedling . . . . 49 48

Northern Greening . . . 49 49

Scarlet Admirable . . 49 50

Ptoyal Russet . 49 51

INDEX. XV11

Page Par.

Cockagee . . 49 52

Shepherd's Newington . . . 49 53

Striped Holland Pippin . . 50 54

Dutch Codlin . . ... 50 55

Kentish Codlin . . . 50 56

Norfolk Storing . . . . 50 57

Norfolk Beefin . . . 50 58

Lemon Pippin . . . . 50 59

Loan's Pearmain . . . 51 60

Hawthorne Dean . . . 51 61

Hertfordshire Pearmain . . 52 62

Kirke's Lord Nelson . . . . 52 63

French Crab . . . . 52 64

Nonsuch . . . 53 65

Norfolk Paradise . . . . 53 66

Woodstock Pippin . . . 53 67

Hank's Codlin . ... 53 68

Pile's Russet . . . . 54 69

Braddick's Nonpareil . . . 54 70

Observations 54 71

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES NOW GENERALLY

CULTIVATED . 56 72

Cider Apples . . . . 59 73

Apples recommended for small Gardens . 60 74

The mode of producing new kinds of Apples . 62 75

Observations on the different modes of Grafting 65 76

CHAPTER II.

PEARS.

Introductory Remarks . . . 71 77

xvin INDEX.

Page Par.

Explanatory List of Pears . . . 73 78

Alphabetical List of Pears . . 78 79

PLUMS.

Remarks ' . . . . 79 80

Explanatory List of Plums . . . 79 81

Alphabetical List of Plums . . 84 82

CHERRIES. /

Useful Observations . . . 85 83

Explanatory List of Cherries . . . 86 84

Alphabetical List of Cherries . 88 85

APRICOTS.

Remarks on the Stocks for Budding, &c. . 89 8ii

Explanatory List of Apricots . . . 90 87

Alphabetical List of Apricots . . 92 88

PEACHES.

Remarks . . . . . 92 89

Explanatory List of Peaches . . ' . 94 90

Alphabetical List of Peaches . . . 98 91

NECTARINES.

Explanatory List of Nectarines . . 99 92

Alphabetical List of Nectarines . . 101 93

GRAPE VINES.

Remarks . . . . 102 94

Explanatory List, of Grapes . . . 102 95

Alphabetical List of Grapes . . 108 96

Explanatory List of Figs . . . 109 97

Alphabetical List of Figs . . . Ill 98

OfChesnuts . . . .111 99

Of Barberries 112 100

INDEX. XIV

Page Par.

Of Quinces . .112 101

Of Walnuts . . . . 112 102

Of Filberts and Nuts . . . 112 103

Of Raspberries . . . 113 104

Of Strawberries . . . . 113 105

Of Currants . . . . 113 106

Of Gooseberries . . . . . 114 107

General Observations . 116 108

PART II.

CHAPTER I.

ON THE CULTURE OF PINES, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUILD-
ING, AND. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES, METHODS
OP HEATING, &C.

Page Par.
GENERAL description of Hothouses intended for

Pines, including situations, aspects, &c. ; also

Instructions for Pits and Hotbeds . .123 1

Description of Soils 144 2

Methods of raising Pine plants . . . 145 3

General culture of Pines 151 4

At full growth, order of Fruiting, &c. . .157 5

Pots, the proper Sizes 158 6

Different varieties of Pines, with Observations

relative to their nature and culture . .159 7
Method of making the Bark-bed, its general

Management and Utility .... 162 8

Sorts of fuel for Fire-heat 164 9

Regulation of heat, thermometer, &c. . . 164 10

INDEX. XXI

Page Par.

Of Bark-bed and Fire-heat . , . . 167 11

Giving Air and Water at different seasons .169 12
Hot Water and Steam, the general uses thereof

in Forcing, with Explanatory Remarks . 170 13
Raising Pines in Hotbeds . . . . 178 14
Management of the Bark-bed in the Pinery .179 15
Occasional Revival of the Bark-bed . . 183 16
Winter Management of Pines . . . 184 17
Spring Management of Pines . . . . 185 18
Summer Management of Pines . . . 186 19
Observations on Shifting Pines, including direc-
tions for Autumn Management . . . 190 20
Insects, remarks thereon, with Instructions how

to prevent them from being injurious . . 195 21

Early Grapes in the Pinery . . . . 200 22

Choice varieties of Fruits, Flowers, &c., in the

Pinery 202 23

Useful Remarks relative to the Chapter on Hot-
house Building, &c 203 24

CHAPTER II.

ON FORCING PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS, CHERRIES,
GRAPES, AND OTHER CHOICE FRUITS.

Observations relating to Peacheries, Vineries,
and other Forcing Houses, with Introductory
Remarks on raising different sorts of Fruits,
Vegetables, and Flowers therein . . . 207 25

Description of the different plans for Forcing
Houses, methods of Heating, with general
Observations 210 26

Description of a general Forcing House . . 214 27

XX11 INDEX.

Page Par.

Preparing Borders for the trees, and the different
Sorts proper for Forcing, including Grape
Vines 216 28

Proper Seasons and Methods of Planting trees
for Forcing . . . . . . . 223 29

Narrow Glass-houses for Forcing principally by
Fire-heat, or Hot Water . . . . 228 30

Forcing Frames, for forcing Fruit trees by Bark-
bed heat alone 229 31

Vinery or Hothouse, principally for Forcing
Grapes ; methods of obtaining the Plants,
with useful Observations . . . . 231 32

How to obtain Fruit trees intended for Forcing,
with a necessary Caution . . . 233 33

Management of Vines, and Seasons for Forcing 234 34

Green-house, or Cold Glass house for Vines . 240 35

Peach-house, its culture and general utility for

Forcing 241 36

Forcing-house for Cherries, with its further Uses 244 37

Observations relative to the Season, and Methods

of Forcing generally ..... 245 38

Admitting Air, with Instructions for Watering

in the different Forcing houses . . . 248 39

Pruning Fruit trees in Forcing houses, with

Instructions for Training . . . . 251 40

Blights and Insects on Trees, how to prevent /

and destroy in Forcing houses . . . . 254 41

The Seasons the different varieties of Fruit ge-
nerally attains maturity in Forcing-houses . 255 42

Treatment of Fruit Trees after Forcing . .256 43

INDEX. XX111

CHAPTER III.

CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING MELONS, WITH IN-
STRUCTIONS HOW TO RAISE EARLY STRAWBERRIES ; ALSO,
MANY USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN FORCING-
HOUSES.

Page Par.

General Observations . . . . . 257 44

Nature of the Melon Plant, its Culture, and

description of the Fruit . . . . 258 45
Different varieties of the Melon, with Observa-
tions . . ' . • 259 46

Soil proper for growing Melons . . .261 47
Preparing dung, &c., for the Hotbeds, for raising

Melons 262 48

Seed proper for Sowing 263 49

Observations on raising Melons in different
ways, the times for Sowing the Seed, with re-
marks thereon 263 50

Method of Making Hotbed for raising Melon

plants, with their Management therein . , 265 51
Making the Fruiting Hotbeds for early and gene-
ral crops of Melons, with their Management
therein, copiously laid down . . 268 52
Manner of Treating Melons when in bloom . 275 53
Instructions for Renewing the Heat of the Hot-
bed by linings 276 54

Remarks relative to Melons while Ripening . 278 55
Late Crops of Melons under Hand-glasses, &c. 279 56
Raising Melons in Oiled-paper Frames, with

Directions for making the Frames . . 282 57
Growing Melons by Bark-bed Heat . . . 285 58
How to save and preserve Melon Seed . . 288 59

XXIV INDEX.

Page Par.
Strawberries, Introductory Remarks on growing

them 289 60

Different Sorts of Strawberries proper for Forcing 290 6 1
Manner of Raising, and Culture of Strawberry

Plants intended for Forcing . . . 292 62

Forcing Strawberries in the Pinery . . . 294 63
Forcing Strawberries in Peach and other Fruit

Tree Forcing-houses, including Vineries . 296 64
Forcing Strawberries in Hotbeds, with Useful

Remarks 297 65

Forcing Raspberries 300 66

Raising Kidney Beans in Forcing-houses . . 303 67

Growing Cucumbers in Forcing-houses . . 305 68

Early Lettuces in Forcing-houses . . . 306 69

Peas and Beans in Fruit-tree Forcing-houses . 307 70
Raising early, various useful articles for culinary

purposes in Forcing-houses .... 308 71
Observations on Forcing different varieties of

choice Flowers in Forcing-houses . . 309 72

THE

FRUIT GROWER'S INSTRUCTOR.

PART THE FIRST.

CHAPTER I.

On the Propagation, Cultivation, Pruning, and General
Management of Apple Trees ; also, Instructions for
Budding, the various modes of Grafting, fyc.

ON THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES.

PAR. 1. — THE propagation of apples is, of
all other fruits, the most easy ; and yet no tree
requires more care and good management in its
general cultivation.

2 THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES.

The reason why it is more easy is, because
the grafts are, if put on in the proper season,
and made to touch the bark, almost sure to
grow; but although so easy, it is generally
attended with more dangerous consequences
than any other tree, if the grafting part is not
properly attended to, which will be hereafter
explained.

The general method of propagating apples,
is by grafting on the Crab stock, which stock
should be raised from the seed of the true
Crab ; the seed may be procured from those
who make verjuice ; when a large quantity is
wanted, it is the best way, as you can generally
depend on having seed from the true Crab ;
but this is not the case with many stock-growers,
for they often sow the seed from apples made
into cider, which will produce various sorts of
stocks ; some will grow large and vigorous,
others of so weak a nature that they will scarcely
ever make a standard tree.

The best method is to wash the seed from
the pulp, and let it get rather dry, for its own
pulp is very apt to rot the pip ; mix it with

THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 3

some light mould or sand, not too damp ; then,
the following February, or beginning of March,
as the weather may suit, you may sow your
seed in beds or in drills; but beds are best, for
when you have taken your mould out the proper
depth, which should be about an inch, you will
be able, when you have sown your seed, to
cover it all over alike, which you cannot do so
correctly in drills : the beds should be about
four feet wide, leaving two feet between each
bed for a path, to be able to walk between
them to weed and keep the beds clean, as that
is most material to all young seedlings; you
take the mould out about one inch deep with
the spade, and put it into the path or alley; make
the bottom of your beds perfectly level, then
sow your seed (just as it is mixed, with mould
or sand), as near as you can judge about one
inch apart all over the ground, which will be
much better for the plants than if you sow
them thicker, for Crabs when drawn up very
weak, seldom do much good after : then take
the mould you have thrown into the alleys, and
sift it over them about one inch ; but if the

B 2

4 THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES.

ground is strong and binding, about three
quarters of an inch will be quite enough.

The seed will then remain in the ground till
the following spring, before you get your ge-
neral crop, although some few may come up the
first year ; during that period, the beds should
be kept carefully clean, while the weeds are in
a young state, in order that the mould may not
be disturbed so deep as the seed.

The following Autumn you may take up the
seedlings, having had one summer's growth,
and transplant them into beds, putting them
about one foot row from row, and about three
inches apart in the rows : let them stand two
years, then they will be strong to plant out into
quarters for grafting, or if the plants are not
too close together in the seed beds, they may
stand two years, and the greater part will be
then strong enough to plant out for grafting,
without being first bedded.

QUARTERING STOCKS TOR GRAFTING.

Par. 2. — Where you quarter or plant out
Crab stocks, being intended to grow strong

QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING. 5

to throw up standard trees, it is necessary to
select a piece of deep loamy soil, which should
be well trenched two spades deep ; this should
be done as early in autumn as you can, in
order to get your stocks planted early in No-
vember, then they will immediately draw root,
which will make a considerable deal of differ-
ence in their growth the following summer ; for
if you do not get them planted till late in De-
cember, the coldness of the ground, even if
the weather is mild, will prevent them drawing
fresh root, and they would be better to re-
main in the beds till February, when they
would soon begin to vegetate; for when the
stocks remain in the ground for some months,
after being removed and all vegetation ceased,
the small fibres are very apt to rot, and the
large roots get in a mildewed, stagnant state,
which I have proved has been so far injurious
to the plants, that it often takes them the fol-
lowing summer to recover themselves, while
those planted in February will make a good
growth.

If your ground is very poor, it will be ne-

D QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING.

cessary to give it plenty of good rotten manure,
to make them throw up standards quick.

The distance for quartering out the stocks
for grafting should he two feet six inches row
from row, and ahout ten inches apart in the
rows. Some will give two feet ten inches, or
three feet row from row; but that I think un-
necessary, as two feet six inches is quite suffi*-
cient to get between them for all purposes, and
quite room enough for them to grow so long as
they ought to remain in the nursery.

When you plant your stocks you should
prune the roots, cutting the strong roots
shorter, and take away as many of the super-
fluous fibres as you can ; trim up the stock
clean at the bottom, but be sure to leave buds
to break from the top, then cut off the top,
leaving the stock long enough to be about six-
teen or eighteen inches out of the ground when
planted ; the stocks should remain two years,
and then they will be in good order for graft-
ing, during which time they will require very
little care or trouble, more than digging be-
tween and keeping them clean from weeds.

GRAFTING. 7

GRAFTING.

Par. 3. — We next come to grafting, which is
one of the most important branches in propa-
gation, particularly of the apple, it being so
subject to the canker, and so apt to be injured
where the graft is put on the stock, which, if it
once takes place, is almost sure to destroy the
tree.

Grafting appears to those who may see others
performing it, very easy, like looking at another
who may write a fine hand, but it requires much
practice to become a clean grafter, as well as it
does to write a clean hand -, at the same time
I shall endeavour so fully to explain it, that
it may be of considerable advantage to the
pupil.

There are various ways to graft, but the best
and usual method for stocks, planted as before
described, is what is commonly called whip-
grafting, for which we must first make the
necessary preparation. In the first place, some
strong loam, such as will stick well together,
should be dug and laid in a heap, if in the dry

GRAFTING.

the better; for if you can run it through a sieve
you will free it from all stones or lumps, which
will make it mix the better.

In the next place there must be provided a
sufficient quantity of horse-dung (I mean the
clean droppings from the horse, quite clear
from straw, for it is the best thing to keep the
clay from cracking,) to allow about one-fourth
to three fourths of loam; this must be mixed
well together, to make it smooth and fine
enough for plastering, and sufficiently moist
to be able to mix it about easy in the hands ;
but not too moist, otherwise it would slip off
the stock, but that would soon be found out by
those who are using it.

The next thing to prepare is some bass or
matting for tying on the grafts. For stocks of
the age and size before-mentioned, it should
be cut about one foot and a half long, and
tied in small bundles ready for the man who is
to tie the grafts.

Now having all ready, we must watch our
season for grafting : where there is a great
quantity to do, it is necessary to begin as early

GRAFTING.

as the season will admit ; and as apples are not
so early as cherries, plums, or pears, (where
you have these to graft) your apples must wait
till they are done ; but if you can begin your
apples about the middle of March, and finish
by the second week in April, it is very rare
that it is too late for them, for I have grafted
apples with success in the last week in April,
when the stocks have been out in full leaf;
but this is a dangerous practice, for if the wea-
ther sets in very dry, it will so dry up the juices
of the stocks that many cannot be expected to
grow, and what do will be very weak, and
scarcely ever make handsome standards.

In the next place must be got ready the
scions or cuttings, which should be of one
year's growth, and as firm and strong as you
can get them, so that they are not too large
for the stocks ; for although weak cuttings will
grow, they will not make near the growth as
the strong cuttings, neither will they bear a
dry harsh spring so well. Now we proceed
to grafting. In the first place you cut down
your stocks within four or five inches from the

BD

10 GRAFTING.

ground, which in large nurseries is done by a
man before the grafter. After the grafter a
man to tie the grafts ; then follow two boys, the
one to what is commonly called dabb, or put
the clay on the graft, and the other to close the
clay: in this way you may get through much
grafting, if the grafter be quick. The grafter
should have the scions cut in lengths about six
inches long, and carry them in his apron ; then
taking out one at a time, he should hold it
firm in his left hand, then take a slice off
the end of the scion, rather more than an inch
long, and be careful not to let your knife cut
too deep to get into the pith& till it gets near
the end of the slice ; — this is one reason why I
recommend so short a slice, for in taking a
long slice you are apt to cut along the pith,
which is very injurious; although it may not
signify so much with apples, it is a bad prac-
tice to follow, for in grafting cherries you will
scarcely ever have a crop, or what is commonly
called a good hit. Having made your slice in
the manner described, you then cut a tongue
or slit, which should be about a quarter of an

GRAFTING. 1 1

inch long, (this is another material thing to
pay attention to,) commencing about a quarter
of an inch below the top of the slice ; let your
knife go in not more than half-way through the
scion, for if you cut too far in when your grafts
are united, you must be at the unnecessary
trouble of shouldering or tying them again
round the top, otherwise those cut too far
through when they have grown any size, the
winds will blow down, even after tying them
a second time.

Having got your scion ready, you take a
slice of your stock the length of the slice on
your scion, make a tongue or slit about the
same length as that on your scion, beginning
nearly at the top of the slice, letting your knife
slope gradually into the stock. If your stock
is much larger than your scion, do not make
your slice too deep into the stock, in order
that your scion may touch the inner rind of the
stock on both sides as well as the bottom ; but
be careful to let your scion just touch the
bottom of the slice on the stock, as that is
necessary both for its making a good growth

12. GRAFTING.

the first summer, and likewise for its healing
well over, for the graft derives by far more
nourishment from the bottom than the side ; but
be sure do not let your scion go below the
slice on the stock. By this practice you put
on the graft in the centre of the stock, which is
much better than putting it on the side, and
by this practice you need not tie your grafts
a second time.

TYING OF GRAFTS.

Par. 4. — Having given the necessary in-
structions for the grafter, tying of grafts is
the next consideration : the tying is done by a
man who follows the grafter; he must have his
bass or matting cut in lengths about one foot
and a half long, or if the stocks are large, it
may be longer; this tied in small bundles
should be taken one at a time, (after dipping it
in water to make it tough) and tied in the
string of the apron, putting one end in the
apron to keep it moist : the bass should be
strong, otherwise should it break, if the grafter
be quick, he will have to wait for the man

TYING OF GRAFTS. 13

who ties : the man being now prepared, he should
begin to tie about four stocks behind the grafter,
and keep about that distance, which will give the
grafter room.

The bass should be placed firm against the
bottom of the scion, and not let slip, which will
prevent the scion from being put out of its place;
this is very necessary to be observed, for if the
scion is removed by the tying, it is useless for
the grafter to be particular about putting the
grafts on ; he should then tie it tight round till
it comes to the top of the stock, where it should
have a tight hitch to fasten off, then cut the end
of the bass close off, for if the end is left an inch
long, which I have often seen, it prevents the
clay from being properly closed, consequently
admitting the air to the graft, which often proves
fatal.

The next thing is putting on the clay, com-
monly called dabbing : this is done by a boy who
follows the man who ties ; having put his clay
into something to carry it with him, he must take
a small piece of clay sufficient to cover the whole
of the incision, and to come about half an inch

14 TYING OF GRAFTS.

above the top of the stock, in order that it may
hang well on the shoulder ; this he should roll
up in his hands nearly in the form of an egg,
then make a hollow in one side of it with one
hand, sufficiently deep, that when it is put on the
stock, it will enclose it all round alike.

After the dabber follows another boy, called
the closer ; he follows with a pot of dry ashes, or
dust, to rub his hands with to keep them from
sticking to the clay, and closes up every crack,
squeezing it tight round the bottom of the clay
to keep it from slipping; then making it per-
fectly smooth, nearly in the form of an egg, it
finishes the grafting.

The above is the general way of grafting in
large nurseries about London ; but where small
quantities only are wanted to be grafted, the
grafter may tie his own grafts, and one boy will
serve both to dab and close.

I have treated as fully as possible on grafting
of apples, as it will serve for most other fruits,
for this practice of grafting is far preferable to
saddle or rind grafting for fruit trees.

MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS. 15

MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS.

Par. 5. — We next proceed to the management
of grafts, which it is necessary to pay great atten-
tion to.

The grafts will not require anything to be done
to them till they have grown five or six inches
long, unless suckers should break out from the
stock before the graft shoots, which must be
carefully cut off and not pulled off, for by pulling
them off, you leave holes in the stock which the
insect is very fond of getting into, and of course
the bottom is the most dangerous part of the
tree to get the canker in ; therefore they should
be cut off as clean as possible, and when the
grafts have grown five or six inches long, you
should watch your opportunity after rain and the
clay is wet, to go over your grafts and take off
those clays which have grown out that length, as
they will then come off easy, and leave those
which have not grown out sufficient till another
time ; for if you take them off too soon, and hot
dry weather should ensue, they are very apt
to wither up ; if the weather should continue

16 MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS.

dry, and your grafts grow too long, you must
then get the clays off by knocking them with the
handle of your knife, or anything that will answer
the purpose ; but be sure to hold the graft as
steady as you can with one hand, to keep it from
being removed out of its place, for that would
be sure death to the graft; therefore as this is so
much more trouble, it is necessary to take every
opportunity after rain.

The day after the clays are removed, you may
untie the bass, observing that you cut your bass
at the back of the stock ; and by following the
above practice, they will require no more tying,
nor any further attention through the summer,
than keeping them free from suckers, and cutting
off the small piece of wood at the top of the stock,
commonly called snagging ; but^this must be care-
fully done.

SNAGGING OF GRAFTS.

Par. 6. — When you commence this work,
which you may do at any time after midsummer,
it is necessary to have a sharp knife with a smooth
edge to avoid the knife slipping and cutting the

SNAGGING OF GRAFTS. 17

stem of the graft, which it is very apt to do if
your knife has a bad edge; and by making those
cuts in the summer season, it leaves a place
where the insect is very fond of getting in and
causing the tree to canker.

It is necessary your knife should be strong,
and held very tight in the hand : after a little
practice, if your stocks are not very strong, you
will be able to take the snag off with one cut,
and after this work is performed, they will require
no further attention through the summer. I
shall hereafter make some interesting obser-
vations on grafting generally, with other me-
thods.

PRUNING AND MANAGEMENT OF APPLES WHILE
IN THE NURSERY.

Par. 7. — The next thing to explain is the
pruning and management while they remain in
the nursery. The first autumn after grafting,
they are what are called maiden trees, and they
generally produce from one to three shoots, and
are by many preferred in this state for general
planting, where dwarf trees are required, which,

18 MANAGEMENT OF

in some instances, are to be recommended ; for
where the tree has thrown out three shoots from
the alternate buds (but not twin buds from the
same joint,) the three shoots will be quite suffi-
cient to form the bottom of the tree, and those
shoots will often throw out quite wood enough
for the tree to support, which will be hereafter
explained under the general head of pruning.

But I shall now confine myself to the general
management while they remain in the nursery.
Dwarf trees, as well as standards, being now in
general request, it is necessary, when the pruning
season commences, to reserve those for dwarfs
which are not likely to make standards ; there-
fore, after having drawn or taken away as many
maiden trees as you may require, all those you
intend for standards you must take off all shoots
but one, leaving the strongest and most up-
right.

Those intended for dwarfs should be those
where the shoots are not upright or strong : in
this case you ought to cut all off but two shoots,
and cut those shoots down to about three buds ;
or where one sh«ot is much weaker than the

APPLES IN NURSERY. 19

other, in order to form a handsome tree, it is
better to take off the weak shoot and cut down
the strong one to four or five buds, which will
produce quite a sufficient quantity of shoots, and
prevent the tree growing strong on one side and
weak on the other ; this having been performed,
will be all the pruning they will require till the
following summer, when those intended for stan-
dards will require what is called spurring in, —
that is, while they are in a growing state, soon
after Midsummer, the young shoots which they
throw out from the side of the tree should be
cut off within about an inch from the stem, ex-
cept about five or six at the top, which will cause
a general circulation of the sap, and make the
trees grow evidently stronger and taller during
the summer ; but unless they are taken before
they have done growing, it will be of no use, but
had better cut them close off to the stem towards
autumn, which it is necessary should be done to
form a head with five or six shoots.

The trees at this age being generally about
three or four feet high in the stem, and commonly
called half standards, those wishing to plant half

20 MANAGEMENT OF

standard s, cannot plant them at a better age,
if the trees have made a strong growth, for the
shoots are alternately formed, and consequently
never crowd or injure each other, which is often
the case where a tree has been headed down,
unless it is carefully pruned ; but this the reader
will be more fully furnished with under the head
of pruning.

The dwarfs, likewise, after one year's heading
down, will have formed shoots enough, and will
never be at a better age for planting.

Although a few trees may have grown five or
six feet high, and make tolerable good standards
the second year, you seldom find many ; there-
fore after taking away as many half standards
as you may have occasion for, the March fol-
lowing begin to make your half standards into
standards, by cutting off all the side shoots,
leaving the upright shoot, cutting that off about
five feet six inches high, and some six feet, but
trees are none the better for being too high in
the stem.

After the next summer's growth, if the trees
are tolerably strong, and have formed a head of

APPLES IN NURSERY. 21

five or six shoots, they cannot be in a better
state for general planting, for their shoots
likewise are formed alternately from the stem,
which, when they get large, causes every limb
to receive free and equal nourishment from the
main stem.

As the trees will not be all fit this season, it
is necessary to be careful how those are pruned
which are left, in order to keep their heads
young, free, and flourishing ; if the stem of the
tree should not be higher than you may wish
it, the best way will be to trim the lower shoots
clean off, leaving only the two top ones, and
cut those two down to about three or four buds
each ; or if you wish the tree lower, you must
cut it down to the two bottom shoots, and be
careful when you are pruning at this season,
to cut as close as you can to a bud ; for what
wood you leave above the bud becomes a dead
substance, and if it does no other injury it
greatly disfigures the tree, besides making it
awkward to remove after the tree has formed a
head.

The above instructions are from the time

22 ON THE CULTIVATION OF APPLES.

of planting the stocks. I have allowed them
to remain six years in the quarters before the
ground is cleared, which I think quite long
enough ; therefore shall not give any further in-
structions for pruning while they remain in the
nursery, for they would not pay for standing ;
neither would I recommend old trees for plant-
ing, for although old trees may grow and per-
haps bear almost immediately, the fruit would
not be near so fine as those produced from
young trees, neither would they succeed so well
in future.

OBSERVATIONS BEFORE THE GENERAL CULTI-
VATION OF APPLES.

Par. 8. — It is both necessary and important
to make some observations on the cultivation
of apples, as it more or less affects fruit growers
generally; for it is too often the case, (some for
want of thought, others for want of experience)
to go upon one broad plan, without studying
the situation, the soil, or the different sorts of
fruit which would best suit the different situ-
ations, which I shall endeavour to explain ; at

ON THE CULTIVATION OF APPLES. 23

the same time confine myself to a limited num-
ber of sorts, such as are most esteemed]; for to
introduce two or three hundred sorts of apples,
two-thirds of which are not worth growing,
would only confuse the reader, and render it
difficult to choose.

I shall therefore confine myself to fifty sorts,
giving each their true character ; for it is very
necessary when you plant either in large quan-
tities for the market, or in gardens for the use
of the family, to plant such sorts as will come
in succession all the year round, which will be
here explained, and the different seasons when
each sort is held in its highest perfection.

CULTIVATION OF DWARF APPLES.

Par. 9. — As dwarf apples are now so much
cultivated, we will commence with planting un-
trained dwarfs in gardens. Having first selected
your sorts, you must get such trees from the nur-
sery as described in paragraph the seventh ; but
before you plant, you should study the situation
and the soil ; for although many persons are
afraid to plant apples, because those of their

24 CULTIVATION OF DWARF APPLES.

neighbours do not flourish, and the land does
not appear to suit them, I should not be afraid of
failing to have fine trees and fine fruit in any
soil, with my treatment.

Apples are fond of a deep loamy soil, and
a situation where they will have plenty of sun,
and where the soil is naturally good ; you need
not take any further trouble (where the ground
is in the habjt of being dug) than opening a
hole sufficiently large to take the root in easily,
loosening the bottom of the hole about a spade
deep, and having pruned the roots, plant them
in the same soil ; and these you may plant in
any convenient corner of the garden, the same
as you would a currant or gooseberry tree, and if
required will not take up more room by being
properly pruned; and the same rule may be
followed in the shrubbery, at such convenient
distances where you can find an open place for
the sun to get at the fruit; or if a piece of
ground is set apart for a plantation of dwarf ap-
ples, the distance I should recommend would
be about twelve feet apart, and then by keeping
them properly pruned, they would have plenty

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL. 25

of room to grow and receive the nourishment of
the sun and air. — See Pruning.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL.

Par. 1 0. I shall now give directions for plant-
ing where the apples are not fond of the soil,
say the soil is of a gravelly nature, or nearly a
bed of gravel.

You must open a hole at least three feet
square and three feet deep, bring in some soil
bordering on clay, and put at bottom (which
will keep cool) about one foot thick, then fill up
the other two feet with rich loam, and plant
your tree right in the centre.

This it may be said is a great deal of trouble,
but what is a garden without an apple tree ? — and
when once done they will last for many years,
either in gravelly or sandy soil, in neither of
which apples will do well alone.

It is under the above treatment indispensably
necessary to study the sort of stock your apple
is grafted on ; it should be the small Paradise
stock, for apples grafted on these stocks will
bloom beautifully and produce fruit even in pots,

c

26 DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL.

as the root is of a fine fibrous nature, and will
remain in a small compass; but the crab is natu-
rally a strong-rooted tree, and would soon over-
run the boundaries of the hole made for it, and
consequently not flourish after: in fact, apples
grafted on paradise stocks are greatly recom-
mended as dwarfs, where you do not want the
trees to grow large, for they generally bear
very freely on those stocks ; and although the
fruit will come very fine, they do not produce
near such strong wood as those grafted on the
crab ; in all cases in planting of apples be care-
ful not to plant them too deep, but merely cover
the roots well.

CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES.

Par. 11. — The culture of standard apples is
so generally known in this country, that it is not
necessary to make many observations ; at the same
time a few may not be considered superfluous.

In the first place, when you select your trees
from the nursery, be careful there is no blemish
on the stem caused by the canker ; and when
orchards are planted the trees should stand at

CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES. 27

least sixteen feet apart, but distances vary in
different countries, from sixteen to forty feet : I
should recommend about twenty feet, or twenty-
fire if the land is very good, to give room for
the under crop; and as there is no fear in future
of the trees decaying through the canker, it
would be better than planting them nearer, for
it is necessary for the meadow to have a free
current of air, otherwise it would produce a poor
sour pasturage.

It is a very good plan to plant the trees three
or four years or more before the ground is laid
down for grass, for keeping the ground dug
about the trees while young greatly encourages
their growth, and they then become strong and
out of the way of cattle.

This plan is often adopted by hop-growers to
plant their trees before the hop grounds are
worn out; and when the meadow is laid down,
there is at once a fine young orchard in bearing
without further trouble, and while the trees are
in that young state they do so little injury to
the under crops, that the same method may be
adopted by cropping the land with vegetables

c 2

•

28 CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES.

or corn, but not too near the tree, for any thing
of strong growth is very injurious; those who
plant standards in gardens, must be guided by
the spots they can best select to plant the trees
where they will do the least injury to the vege-
table crops.

It would be very wrong to plant standard
apple orchards on very inferior land; and on
good land I would by no means recommend very
large holes, for the ground will naturally sink,
thereby causing the tree to be considerably
lower than it ought, which is very injurious,
particularly if sunk below the graft ; at the same
time they should be made sufficiently large to
let the roots in easily, and the earth at the bot-
tom of the hole finely loosened full one foot
deep before the tree is put in.

PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES.

Par. 12. — The pruning of apple trees is a
most important thing to attend to, and to un-
derstand, both for keeping the trees in a healthy
state, and likewise for the production of fine
fruit, particularly dwarfs, of which I shall first

PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 29

treat ; I mean common dwarfs (called by some
dwarf standards) and not dwarf trained trees.

It is necessary to commence from the maiden
graft, and go on till the tree is in a state of ma-
turity, in order to render the process as clear as
possible.

Suppose your maiden tree has only one or two
shoots, it is then necessary to cut them down to
four or five buds, to get a sufficiency of wood to
form the bottom of the tree ; the following sea-
son leave about five of the most regular shoots,
which will be quite sufficient, or even four, for
they are none the better for being crowded with
limbs from the stem.

But as apples, sometimes the first year after
planting, will scarcely make any growth, they
had better stand one year after planting before
they are headed down; but I should prefer those
trees which have been one year headed down
in the nursery, having enough shoots to form
the bottom of the tree ; I should not leave more
than six shoots at the outside, but what you take
out, take out clean, and be sure not to leave any
blemish, nor bruise the bark with the knife.

30 PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES.

I here beg leave to differ from those who re-
commend heading down dwarf apple trees, when
they have wood sufficient to form the bottom of
the tree; I prefer letting it remain, for, as the
new wood will grow but little the first year, the
shoots will swell and get strong, and if it is a
good bearer will form bloom buds all up these
young shoots : this, perhaps, will alarm some to
allow the tree to bear so young, but it must be
remembered that the trees while young will pro-
duce the finest fruit : besides, it is necessary to
throw them into bearing early, to keep them
from growing too luxuriantly. It is useless
having a great fruitless tree covering a large
space of ground, while by proper management
you can get an equal quantity of fruit off a tree
half the size, and that fruit finer, and the tree
kept sufficiently strong and in perfect health, by
the mode of pruning I shall adopt.

Now the tree having stood two years without
being headed down as before described, it will
throw out some young side-shoots towards the
top of the original shoots; these should be cut off'
within two buds of the bottom, allowing the ori-

PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 31

ginal shoots to grow straight up, till they get to
the height you wish them, say five or six feet or
higher, then cut their tops off, and keep all the
young shoots spurred in every year, to about two
buds, nearly the same as you would a red currant
tree ; by this means it will throw all those spurs
into bloom buds, and I have seen by this process,
the trees hanging from bottom to top with apples
like ropes of onions ; and by pruning away all
that superfluous wood, the fruit receives the
whole strength and nourishment of the tree ; and
besides, by this method, you not only throw your
trees into bearing, and produce more fruit, but
they have the advantage of the sun, so essential
both for their flavour and beauty ; the trouble is
no more than that of pruning your currants and
gooseberries, and surely apples are worth as
much attention.

When the trees begin to get old, you may
occasionally leave a clean young shoot, and the
following year remove an old one, and by so
doing you will keep your trees in a young, heal-
thy, bearing state.

Dwarf apples on the small Paradise stock, may

32 PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES.

(if required) be kept in a much less space than
those described above, and by this way of prun-
ing, the trees may be, with proper management,
kept perfectly free from the canker.

PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES.

Par. 13. — The pruning of standard apples has
for many years past been attended with very
dangerous consequences, on account of the can-
ker ; for where the tree has not been cut parti-
cularly clean, or left at all bruised, there the
insect would be sure to get in, and keep wound-
ing the tree further and further, till it completely
ruined it ; therefore, in all kinds of pruning, you
ought to cut very smooth and clean, and then it
will soon heal over, but if bruised or left rough,
it will not.

Having selected the standards with young
heads, such as are recommended in paragraph
the seventh, I should plant them without touch-
ing their heads with a knife, for if you cut them
down, and they do not break freely the first year,
they seldom do well after; but if the head is not
cut, and the tree does not grow much the first

PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES. 33

year, it will get strong, and the main shoots
from the stem will get strong likewise, and
sooner get out of the way of cattle.

But where you plant trees that have been two
or three years headed down in the nursery, it is
necessary to cut out any cross shoots, or where
two shoots are close together to take away one ;
for although they might not injure while young,
they would when they grew old, and the tree not
grow so handsome.

I must add another reason for not cutting
down the heads of fresh planted standard apples:
I have often seen them when they have been <;ut
down, instead of making fine young heads, throw
out short shoots two or three inches long, anci
those (if they are good bearers) formed into
bloom, which stagnates the tree, and seldom
forms a good Jiead after.

Standard trees planted, and their heads left
in this state, will require no pruning till the
trees get large and too full of wood, except an
occasional cross branch, and taking out all dead
pieces.

But old trees should occasionally be thinned

c 5

34 PRUNING OF TRAINED APPLES.

where they grow too thick of wood, and this
should be performed with a saw where the
branches are large, but be sure to saw them off
without splitting or injuring the bark, and as
the saw will leave it rough, the part where it has
been sawed off should be made smooth with a
sharp knife, otherwise it will not heal so well or
so soon.

PRUNING OF TRAINED AP.PLES.

Par. 14. — As trained apples are not so much
in request since the introduction of common
Dwarfs, and as the pruning of th.em has been
so fully explained, it is necessary only to state
after the tree has been properly trained in the
nursery, the pruning it will require, will be si-
milar to the pruning and management of dwarf
apples, in paragraph the twelfth.

There is one great benefit arising from trained
apples ; while young the wind has not the power
of shaking them about so much, and consequently
the fruit is not so likely to fall ; likewise, if they
have no other trees to shade them, the fruit is
sure to receive the benefit of the sun.

PRUNING OF TRAINED APPLES. 35

The season I should recommend for pruning
apples, is from the middle of January till the
middle of March ; some will prune through
April, and so late as May ; but my opinion is by
causing the sap to flow, and the tree to bleed
too freely when the bloom is tender, often causes
the fruit not to set well.

Another thing should be observed in pruning
of dwarf and trained apple trees: there are
some sorts which bear principally at the end of
the young shoots; where that is the case, you
should always leave plenty of the young one
year shoots; for want of a knowledge of this
many fail in their crops on trained trees, for if
the bloom is cut off we cannot have fruit ; this
is easily discovered by leaving those sorts you
are unacquainted with till March, before you
prune them, you will then see where they shew
their bloom, and the tree may be kept free, by
taking away old wood instead of young.

BUDDING OF APPLES.

Par. 15. — Budding of apples some years back,
was much more practised than at the present

36 BUDDING OF APPLES.

day, although in some nurseries in the country,
it is still continued, and, of course they think
it best : hut I will here give my reasons for not
approving of the general practice of budding
apples.

The argument of those who approve of bud-
ding apples is, they generally grow taller for
standards the first summer, there being but one
shoot for the stock to support : granted ; but
this is often the cause of crooked, weak, stem-
med trees, for having run up so tall, they fre-
quently throw out shoots at the top the following
summer, which are often too heavy for the stem
to support, and they consequently bend down and
grow crooked.

Another very great objection to budding
apples is the canker, for buds are generally
untied late in summer, and there is naturally a
wound in the stock, which the most scientific
budder cannot prevent ; and this is the season
of the year, of all others the most dangerous,
for the insect is fond of a wound where they can
enter for their winter quarters, and that spot of

DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING. 37

all others, is the most dangerous in the tree for the
canker to take place.

But although I do not recommend it gene-
rally, sometimes it is necessary : for if you wish
to make the most of a cutting, or it might
happen you would be able to get a cutting of
some favourite sort at the budding season, and
could not at the grafting season. I will, there-
fore, give as clear a description of budding, as
can be given in writing, which will serve not
only for budding apples, but all other fruits.

DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING.

Par. 16. — Budding is an art which requires
long practice, and close attention, to arrive at
perfection in ; indeed most authors have said, it
is impossible to convey an accurate idea to the
reader ; but I will endeavour to state it so plain,
that I think with attention it may be of service.

The budding of apples is what we now have
before us ; in the first place, it is necessary to
attend to the state of the stocks you intend to
bud, for some seasons are much earlier than
others, and some soils will cause the stocks,

38 DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING.

either Crabs or Paradise, to grow much longer
than others; and in budding of all kinds of fruit
trees, it is very necessary to bud them before the
stocks have stopped growing.

Generally the best time for apples, is late in
August, but this must entirely depend on the
state of the stocks, or trees, which you intend
to bud.

The stocks being ready, you should endea-
vour to get your cuttings (which must be of
the same summer's growth) as firm and ripe
as you can, and having prepared some strong
new matting for the purpose, you proceed to
budding.

After cutting the leaves off the cutting or
scion, cut off the top likewise, as low down as
it is soft and too green, then with your budding
knife which must have a very keen edge, take
off the top bud from the scion, commencing
with your knife about an inch below the bud,
then hold the bud firm betwen your thumb and
finger, and take out the piece of wood the re-
verse way of the bud, leaving nothing but the
rind, this must be done clean without leaving it

DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING. 39

any way ragged; you then look, (and in this
it is necessary to be very particular,) to see if
taking out the wood has injured the bud, which
it will do in various ways; sometimes it will draw
all the centre of the bud out, which renders the
bud of no use whatever ; sometimes it will leave
the bud very hollow ; in that case they are
doubtful ; therefore if you are not short of cut-
tings, do not make use of one bud unless it is
quite plump and level with the inside rind, and
then you may almost make a certainty of its
growing; on the contrary, you cannot depend
on them, for they will often keep alive to all
appearance even through the winter, but will
not shoot in spring ; in fact, this is one of the
most nice points in budding ; having your bud
ready, you next proceed to open the incision in
the stock or tree ; the incision is made nearly
in the form of a letter T, cutting through the
rind first at the top about half way round the
stock, then commencing with your knife about
two inches lower down, draw your knife up to
the cut at the top, and before you take your
knife out, gently open the rind on one side,,

40 UNTYING OF BUDS,

which will let in the handle of your budding
knife, then open the incision so that it will let
in the bud to the bottom, and cut off what may
remain too long for the incision; tie the bud
tight round with some strong matting, observing
that you do not let the bass go at all over the
bud, for that is sure death ; give it a tight hitch
to fasten off and the budding is finished.

UNTYING OF BUDS.

Par. 17. — When the stocks or trees have
been budded about six weeks, it is necessary to
untie the bass from them ; it is the practice of
some to tie them again, but this is qnite unne-
cessary, except where they have been budded in
very free growing young wood, but even then if
the bass is not tied too tight, they need not be,
or at least very seldom, tied again.

HEADING DOWN STOCKS WHICH ARE BUDDED.

Par. 18. — The heading down of stocks or
trees which have been budded is the next pro-
cess ; they should be cut off about four inches
above the bud ; this may be done any time after

TYING AND SUCKERING OF BUDS. 41

Christmas, but about the end of February is a
good time ; they are not so well to be left much
later in the season, otherwise the bud is apt to
go blind, through the sap rising more up into
the head of the stock or tree.

TYING AND SUCKERING OF BUDS.

Par. 19. — The next thing is the tying and
suckering of buds; it is necessary when the
suckers shoot out from the stocks to cut them
clean off, in order to give the bud all the encou-
ragement you can ; and when the bud has grown
four or five inches long, tie it gently up to the
piece of the stock which is left above the bud,
but be sure to leave a sufficient space between
the bud and the stock for the bud to swell, after
this you have no further trouble with them, ex-
cept keeping them free from suckers till they
want snagging, for which see snagging, Para-
graph 4.

OBSERVATIONS BEFORE THE EXPLANATORY
LIST OF SORTS.

Par. 20. — Having given all the necessary in-

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

formation for the cultivation, pruning, and ge-
neral management of apple trees, I shall next
furnish the reader with an explanatory list of
sorts, giving each their true character.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

TABLE OR DESSERT APPLES.

Par. 21. — Ribston Pippin; this is one of the
most celebrated apples in cultivation ; it is ripe
in October, and in the months of November
and December ; it is considered by most superior
in flavour to any apple at that season ; its bloom
is simple and by no means showy for the shrub-
bery ; it is a general bearer, but will not keep
late, for if the fruit does not rot, it will lose its
juices and become insipid. It will also make
excellent sauce, but it is generally recommended
as one of the best table apples.

(22.)— Court of Wyck Pifpin; this is a very
handsome small table apple; it is said to be a
seedling from the old golden pippin : it ripens

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 43

in October, is a good bearer, and will keep
through the winter.

(23.) — Scarlet Nonpareil; this is a very
choice table apple, in high perfection at Christ-
mas, at which season it is not excelled by any
apple for beauty and flavour ; it is rather larger
than the old nonpareil, of very handsome form,
and if the fruit stands open to the sun, it will
turn of a beautiful scarlet ; it produces a prodi-
gious quantity of bloom, and generally bears
well.

(24.) — Old Nonpareil; this is an apple too
w'ell known to require much explanation or re-
commendation ; it is a fine keeping table fruit.

(25.) — Downton Pippin; this is one of the
productions of Mr. Knight, of Downton Castle,
and President of the Horticultural Society;
it is a very handsome small yellow apple, very
full of juice, of rather a tart flavour; it is a
great bearer, and in high perfection in the
autumn.

(26.) — Sykehouse; this is a small firm table
apple of a russet colour, handsome form, and

44 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

equal, from Christmas till May, to the old non-
pareil ; it is a very great bearer.

We have not a better keeping table apple in
England.

(27.) — Yellow Ingestry Pippin ; this is a very
handsome small yellow table fruit, a good bearer,
and is in perfection about October.

(28.) — Hicks Fancy ; this is a most delicious
dessert apple, of small size, a very great bearer,
and will keep ; but it is best before Christmas.

(29.) — Old Golden Pippin; this apple as a
table fruit, is decidedly one of the best in this
country; although there are many apples far
superior to it in flavour before Christmas : it is
not excelled by any after, and consequently at a
season when most of our finest table apples are
gone by. I cannot pass over this fruit without
making a few observations, knowing an impres-
sion has been made on some gentlemen, that
the Golden Pippin is entirely wearing out, and
therefore useless to cultivate it ; in this I must
beg leave to differ: from my great practice
among apples, I am satisfied they are to be kept
in as flourishing a state as ever they were, for

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 45

the cause of its early decay is entirely from the
canker, which is the case with most sorts of
weak growth, but the Golden Pippin is one of
the insect's greatest favourites: therefore by
keeping the body of the trees sound, you may
depend on your Golden Pippins flourishing as
well as ever.

(30.) — Franklin's Golden Pippin ; this is a
very good juicy table apple, a good bearer
and will keep, it is in high perfection in No-
vember.

(31.) — Esopus Spitzenberg Apple; this apple
is said to be an American, and was first raised
in Albany ; it requires the protection of a wall ;
it is large, handsome, and of an exquisite fla-
vour.

(32.) — Scarlet Pearmain ; this is a handsome
table apple of a fine scarlet colour, full of fine
sweet juice, and a great bearer ; ripens early in
the autumn, and will keep through the winter.

(33.) — Royal Pearmain; this apple is very
handsomely formed, of rather a russet red co-
lour, and a good size for the table, the flavour
is very fine, and it is generally a good bearer ;

46 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

it ripens in September, but soon becomes mealy
after it is gathered.

(34.) — Margaret Apple; this a good summer
apple of a red colour, with a little russet to-
wards the eye ; it is a good bearer and ripens in
August.

(35.) — Kirke's Duchess of Oldenburgh ; this
is a table apple of a tolerable size ; it is rather
a flat form ; the ground of the fruit when ripe
is a greenish yellow, beautifully pencilled with
pink and red; it is full of fine sweet juice, and
may be fairly called one of our best summer
table apples.

(36.) — Kirke's Golden Reinet; this is a very
handsome table apple of a golden russet colour,
and a fine red next the sun ; the flavour is very
fine ; it ripens about October, and is good till
after Christmas.

(37.) — King of the Pippins; this apple ripens
late in the summer, and to eat it from the tree
it is equal in flavour to any at that season ; but
a few days after it is gathered it looses its fla-
vour, or at least is very materially diminished.

(38.) — Wellington Apple; this is a very

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 47

handsome keeping table fruit, and deserves
to be brought into general cultivation; the
fruit is of a pale green ground, of a beautiful
pale red or rather pink next the sun, and is a
great addition to the desserts at, and after,
Christmas.

(39.) — Kerry Pippin ; this is a much admired
summer table apple, and is a good bearer.

(40.) — Wheeler's Russet; this apple, as a
table fruit, deserves the highest character; it is
rather larger than the old nonpareil, much like
it in appearance and flavour; it is a great bearer,
and will keep till May.

(41.) — Powell's Russet is a most excellent
table apple ; it is smaller than Wheeler's, very
fine flavour, a great bearer, and will keep through
the winter.

(42.) — Devonshire Whitesour; this is a very
early summer table apple, of a whitish yellow
colour; it has fine • melting flesh, with very rich
juice; it is a good bearer, and is greatly adr
mired.

(43.) — Margell is a table apple, in flavour
much like the Ribston Pippin, but does not

48 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

grow so large; it is a great bearer, and will
keep till spring.

(44.) — Christy's Pippin ; this is an apple not
much known at present; it is one of the best
table apples among the new varieties ; in form
much like the Nonsuch, firm and juicy, of a
greenish colour, fine flavoured, is a very great
bearer, and will keep through the winter.

APPLES FOR CULINARY PURPOSES.

Par. 45. — Beauty of Kent ; this is one of the
largest apples in cultivation ; it is a most ex-
cellent apple for sauce, looks very handsome on
the trees, is a great bearer, and will keep.

(46.) — Kirke's Emperor Alexander ; this is a
fine sauce apple, and is decidedly the most beau-
tiful apple grown, t have known them measure
sixteen inches round ; and although they grow
so large, they seldom fall from the trees if sound ;
it is a good bearer, ripe late in October, and will
keep till Christmas.

(47.) — Keswick Codlin is a large yellow ap-
ple, and one of the greatest bearers we have.
This is well adapted for small gardens, for it is

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 49

a long time before it gets large through its great
bearing; it ripens in September, but will not
keep long after they are gathered.

(48.) — Luccumb's Seedling, is a great bearer,
of a greenish yellow striped with red, will grow
large; it is a very good sauce apple, and will
keep through the winter.

(49.) — Northern Greening; this is a most
desirable apple to plant, it is a firm green fruit,
a very great bearer, and will keep sound till
spring.

(50.) — Kirke's Scarlet Admirable; this is a
very fine large sauce apple, of a beautiful scarlet
next the sun ; is generally a good bearer, and
will keep.

(51.) — Royal Russet; this is a well-known
good keeping sauce apple.

(52.) — Cockagee; this apple, which is so ce-
lebrated for cider, I have merely recommended
for kitchen use, on account of its fine acid for
being mixed with other apples in the tart or
pudding — it answers the purpose of the Quince.

(53.) — Shepherd's Newington; this is a fine
large juicy sauce apple, and is a great bearer.

D

50 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

(54.) — Striped Holland Pippin; this would
be very handsome in the shrubbery, for the
bloom which comes out early is extremely beau-
tiful ; it is a good bearer and a very good apple.

(55.) — Dutch Codlin; although I cannot re-
commend this as a general bearer, the fruit is so
fine, and the bloom so beautiful, it deserves a
place amongst a collection.

(56.) — Kentish Codlin; this is a very good
bearer, not so large as the Dutch Codlin, but is
a very good sauce apple.

(57.) — Norfolk Storing; this apple will keep
well through the winter, and is good for sauce
when most others are gone by ; it is generally a
good bearer.

(58.) — Norfolk Beefin; this is a well-known
long keeping apple, of a dullish red colour, it is
famed for baking, and is good for all culinary
purposes. This apple will keep good till Au-
gust, and is a general bearer.

(59.) — Lemon Pippin; this is a very good
sauce apple, of a yellow colour, is a good bearer,
and will keep till March.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 51

(60.) — Loan's Pearmain, is an excellent sauce
apple, is a good bearer, and will keep.

APPLES FOR DESSERT OR CULINARY PURPOSES.

Par. 61. — Hawthorne Dean; this apple, for
the beauty of its bloom, the beauty of its fruit,
its fine flavour when in season, together with
its wonderful bearing, surpasses every apple now
in cultivation : if the trees stand where they can

have the benefit of the sun, the fruit will look

•

as handsome as a beautiful peach ; it is hand-
somely formed, of a whitish yellow ground, and
a brilliant pink next the sun ; they are very full
of juice, and the flavour universally admired
while in season; it is generally in perfection
through the month of September, although they
are used much earlier, and till the end of Octo-
ber. If this apple would keep, there would not
be such an apple in cultivation, for many of them
grow large for kitchen purposes, while the small
ones produce a beautiful and delicious fruit for
the dessert, and it is thought by many it would
make fine cider : but to have this fruit hand-
some it is absolutely necessary to plant the trees

2 D

52 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

where the fruit will receive the sun, otherwise
it will be of a pale colour. I know of no plant
or shrub in cultivation that would adorn the
shrubbery more than this tree ; for the bloom is
extremely handsome in the spring, and in the
summer the fruit would not be passed without
being admired.

(62.) — Hertfordshire Pearmain; this is an
exceedingly fine apple for winter, it is rather of

a red russet colour, the small ones are handsome

I

for the table, having a very fine flavour; the
large ones are most excellent for kitchen pur-
poses.

(63.) — Kirke's Lord Nelson; this apple is
one of Mr. Kirke's finest productions, it is a
great bearer, and very handsome ; good for table
or sauce, is in perfection in October, and will
keep till spring.

(64.) — French Crab, called by some the ever-
lasting pippin ; this is a very firm green apple,
it is good for culinary purposes through winter,
and in spring is a very fine table fruit ; it will
keep good till the early summer apples come in,
and may be considered one of the most useful

EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 53

apples in cultivation : it might be grown in the
country to very great advantage for the London
markets, for they are so firm they will not bruise
like other apples, and in the spring they always
fetch a great price.

65. — Nonsuch ; this well-known apple de-
serves cultivation, it is a great bearer, and very
good for kitchen purposes ; and for those who
are fond of a sharp juicy apple, they will do
for the dessert; it ripens late in summer, but
will not retain it flavour long after it is ga
thered.

(66.) — Norfolk Paradise; this is a handsome
apple for table, and very good for sauce ; it will
keep through the winter.

(67.) — Woodstock, or Blenheim Pippin ; this
apple was produced at Woodstock, the seat of
the Duke of Marlborough ; it is a most excellent
apple for all purposes ; it ripens in October, and
will keep good some time.

(68.) — Mank's Codlin ; this is one of the
greatest bearers we have ; the fruit is hand-
somely formed, of a pale yellow colour, and
where the sun can get at them they turn of a

54 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS.

beautiful pale pink ; it is full of fine rich juice,
and good for all purposes ; the bloom is not ex-
celled by any ; it is nearly as handsome as a
rose ; it is further to be recommended to plant
as dwarfs in the shrubbery, for its great bloom-
ing and bearing prevents its growing so large as
many sorts ; it is in perfection about September,
but will not keep long.

(66.) — Pile's Russet ; this is an old, well-
known excellent keeping apple, and good for all
purposes.

(70.) — Braddick's Nonpareil ; this apple,
which is rather new and not much known, de-
serves to be'recommended ; it partakes much of
the old nonpareil in flavour, but is an earlier ap-
ple : it is nearly of a russet colour, fine melting
flesh, and full of rich juice ; some of them grow
a tolerable size, which will do for culinary pur-
poses, and the small ones afford a fine dessert ;
it is in perfection about November, and will keep
and retain its juices ; it is a great bearer.

OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 71. — i have now furnished my readers

OBSERVATIONS. 55

with a collection of the best sorts of apples now
in cultivation, for the different purposes as de-
scribed in the character of each apple. Although
there are more very good apples, there are a
great many not worth recommending ; indeed
there are some I could mention superior to some
of those in the list, but what a disappointment
it is when your crops continually fail ! Some
may say, why leave out such and such a sort,
where it may probably be a favourite ? but there
is such a confusion in the names of apples, that
it is likely to be in this list under another name,
for there are several among them I know to have
three or four different names : but these are pro-
perly named as known by the Horticultural So-
ciety, and the principal nurserymen round Lon-
don.

Some may think, if they see a tree full of fruit
it must be a good bearer, but I have known
some of the most shy bearers, (by chance) pro-
duce a fine crop ; it is therefore necessary to
watch its general bearing : such fruits as I have
described here I have thoroughly tried, and cho-
sen them from a very large collection ; I can

56 OBSERVATIONS.

therefore recommend them with confidence. I
should also wish it to be understood, that fruit
will not ripen at the same time every year ; nei-
ther will apples keep so well same seasons as
others. I have mentioned the time of ripening
as that of our usual summers.

To confuse the reader with an explanatory
list of other sorts for the ahove purposes, would
be useless, and render it difficult to choose ; but
as there are other very good apples, and every,
one have their favourites, I will give an alpha-
betical list of names of those sorts now generally
cultivated.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES.
NOW IN GENERAL CULTIVATION.

Those marked with an asterisk (*) are described
in the explanatory list.

Par. 72.—

Aromatic Russet Berecourt Pippin

Ashmead's Kernel *Braddick's Nonpareil

*Beauty of Kent Boatswain's Pippin

Beauty of Wilts Biggs' Nonsuch

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES.

57

Barcelona Pearmain

Benwell's Pearmain

Bedfordshire Foundling

Claggate Pearmain
*Court of Wyck Pippin

Cray Pippin

Crofton Apple

Cockle Pippin *

Costard Apple
*Cockagee
*Cristy's Pippin

Carlisle Codlhi

Cornish Aromatic

Custard Apple

Cobham Apple
*Downton Pippin
*Dutch Codlin
•Duchess of Oldenburg
*Devonshire Whitesour

Duke of Beaufort's Pippin
*Emperor Alexander

Embroidered Pippin
*Esopus Spitzenberg Apple

Flower of Kent
*Franklin's Golden Pippin

French Crab

Foxley Pippin

Farleigh Pippin

Fearn's Pippin

Formuse Apple

Fall Pippin
•Golden Pippin
•Golden Rennet

Gibbon's Russet

Golden Russet

Gough Apple

Grange Apple

Gray Leadington

Golden Harvey or Brandy
Apple

General Wolf
•Hawthorne Dean
•Hertfordshire Pearmain
•Hick's Fancy.

Hughes' Golden Pippin

Holland Pippin

Hall Door

Hunt's Royal Red

Jubilee Pippin
•Keswick Codlin

Kirke's Golden Pippin

Kirke's Incomparable
•King of the Pippins
•Kerry Pippin
•Kirke's Lord Nelson
•Kentish Codlin
D5

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES.

Kentish Fillbasket
*Luccomb's Seedling
*Lemon Pippin
*Loans' Pearmain
Lewis' Gilly Flower
*Manks Codlin or Irish

Pitcher

*Margaret Apple
Marmalade Pippin
*Margil
Minchin Crab
Memmel Pippin
*Norfold Storing
*Norfolk Beefin
*Norfolk Paradise
*Nonpareil
New Town Pippin
*Northern Greening
*Nonsuch
Oslin

Orange Pippin
Ord Apple
Potter's Apple
Pigeon's Heart or Arabian

Apple

Pedley's Pippin
*Piles Russet

Peach Apple
Pomgree
'Powell's Russet
*Pomme de Violet
Quince Apple
*Ribston Pippin
*Royal Pearmain
Royal Corptfhdue
Red Quarentine
*Royal Russet
Ridding's Nonpareil
Red Ingestry Pippin
Red Juneting
*Scarlet Nonpareil
*Sykehouse
Scarlet Crab
Siberian Crab
Siberian Harvey
Sops of Wine
Sellswood Rennet
Scarlet Pearmain
Scarlet Queening
Southampton Pippin
*Scarlet Admirable
'Shepherd's Newington
Stubbard Apple
*Striped Holland Pippin

CIDER APPLES. 59

Spring Grove Codlin Wormsley Pippin

Sandy's Russet 'Wheeler's Russet

Stony Royd Pippin Winter Pearmain

Transparent Crab Wyken Apple
* Woodstock or Blenheim White Lilly

Pippin Yorkshire Greening

*White Juneting *Yellow Ingestry Pippin
'Wellington Apple

CIDER APPLES.

Par. 73. — As it is now become a question
whether our old cider fruits are not going to decay
from old age, it is necessary to say something on
the subject.

I have no doubt but many, where they have
not had sufficient practice, will differ with me,
but having for many years had thousands, and
tens of thousands, continually under my imme-
diate care and notice, it has given me an oppor-
tunity of becoming thoroughly acquainted with
the constitution of the apple tree ; and I am con-
fident it is nothing but bad management and ill
treatment which is the cause of the general
decay of our apple trees, and principally, from
want of proper attention to the canker. This is

60 NEW CIDER APPLES.

quite evident from all our new sorts becoming
affected by it, as well as the Golden Pippin, and
our other fine old cider fruits. To conclude, I
am convinced so long as English oak is known to
flourish in England, so long by proper manage-
ment, may our Golden Pippins be known to
flourish, as well as they did fifty years back ; I
will therefore give a list of the esteemed old
sorts, with a list of others which are now gene-
rally approved of for cider.

Old Golden Pippin Wood Cock

Fox Whelp Forest Stire

Herefordshire Redstreak Old Queening

Orange Pippin Bennet Apple

Red Musk Friar

Hagloe Crab Yellow Elliott.

NEW CIDER APPLES.

Court of Wyck Pippin Kirke's Lord Nelson

Foxley Apple Kirke's Seedling Golden

Downton Pippin Pippin

Stead's Kernel Franklin's Golden Pippin

Cockagee Kirke's Golden Rennet

If I were going to plant apples, purposely for

NEW CIDER APPLES. 61

cider, I should confine myself to a few sorts
for if we have those sorts which are good, and
good bearers, what can we wish more ? I should
therefore recommend the following : —

Court of Wyck Pippin Kirke's Lord Nelson

Foxley Apple Kirke's Seedling Golden

Downton Pippin Pippin

Cockagee Franklin's Golden Pippin

The most favourite cider apple now in culti-
vation, is the cockagee ; I am informed by. some
of our principal cider merchants it is decidedly
the best for bottling, and will bring the great-
est price; therefore, as this apple is a good
bearer, and a free grower, it would be the most
profitable of any to plant for cider.

Kirke's Lord Nelson, is not much known at
present as a cider fruit, but this apple, which is
a good bearer, produces a large quantity of fine
astringent saccharine juice, and makes a most
excellent cider to drink from the cask.

List of apples from one to twelve sorts recom-
mended for small gardens.

62 THE MODE OF PRODUCING

Par. 74.--

1 Hawthorn Dean 7 Manks Codlin

2 Ribston Pippin 8 Scarlet Nonpareil

3 Kirke's Lord Nelssn 9 Scarlet Pearmain

4 Cristy's Pippin 10 Hick's Fancy

5 Beauty of Kent 1 1 Woodstock Pippin

6 Sykehouse 12 Court of Wyck Pippin

The above are all described in the explana-
tory list, where the different seasons of ripen-
ing, with the character of the apples, may be
found.

THE MODE OF PRODUCING NEW KINDS OF
APPLES.

Par. 75. — It is a well known fact, not only
among botanists, but all those who have paid at-
tention to the culture of the vegetable tribe, that
by improper management their sorts will dege-
nerate ; and this is caused, by such sorts being
planted too near together, by which means they
unite with each other.

If you plant cabbages and potatoes, or cucum-
bers and turnips near each other, or anything of
a different nature, they will not injure ; but if

NEW KINDS OF APPLES. 63

you plant cabbage and cauliflower, or savoy, or
anything of a similar nature, it will cause the
most perfect sort to degenerate, if theyare al-
lowed to bloom together. The same is the case
with apples ; for, if various sorts are in the same
garden blooming near each other, although you
might save your seed from what appeared a very
fine apple, you would not judge which was the
male parent : in order to elucidate this particu-
lar, I will endeavour to state as plainly as pos-
sible, the nature of the apple from its first forma-
tion, till it becomes perfect, and produces the ripe
pip or seed.

In the first place, when the bloom is quite
open, the principal attraction is the leaves of the
bloom, five in number ; that which is called the
corolla ; below the flower, where the small green
apple is formed, which continues to grow larger
till it comes to perfection, this is called the flower
cup or calyx ; in the centre of the cup you see
small yellow things, which are called stiles, and
below the stiles are to be seen several other very
small things with round heads like pins, which
are called stamens, and these produce a fine dust

64 THE MODE OF PRODUCING

called the Farina or Pollen, which is collected hy
the bees and other insects, and which the former
so industriously collect and lay up for their
young, &c.

Various have been the opinions on this sub-
ject, but it is now become conclusive, that the
bloom becomes impregnated with other varie-
ties, through the bees and other insects ; indeed,
most insects after they become winged, are
fond of the sweets they can collect from flowers ;
and although we have not so just an idea of
many insects as we have of bees, yet I have no
doubt many of them take part in crossing the
fruits and vegetables : but the bees may be seen
flying to a great number of different flowers and
trees, before they have a sufficient load to take
home to their hive, and by thus flying from bloom
to bloom, and tree to tree, they occasionally drop
part of the Pollen into another flower, which
causes it to be impregnated with the nature of
the fruit or vegetable from which it was collected ;
it therefore shows the necessity, if we wish to
produce a new variety of any peculiar quality, to
plant the trees where they will not be within a

NEW KINDS OF APPLES. 65

considerable distance of ajiy other ; for instance,
suppose you wish to raise a new keeping apple, it
will be necessary to choose two good keeping
apples, and if one were very sour, and the other
sweet, it will have a great chance of combining
these two qualities, which are quite necessary to
constitute a good apple : or if you have a favou-
rite early apple, and would wish to get one
nearly like it that it would keep, then plant by
it a good keeping apple, and you will have a
chance of getting one nearly like it, and probably
much better.

If your seedlings are at all strong, the best
method, and most quick to prove them, is, the
following spring after they have come up, to
graft them on young fruit-bearing trees ; it will
bring them into bearing early, and by so doing,
you ^ikewise have an opportunity of noticing
which are likely to become good bearers.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIFFERENT MODES OF
GRAFTING.

Par. 76. — Various are the opinions respecting
the influence the stock will have on the scion.

66 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

or graft : many persons (for want of sufficient
practice) to this day, suppose the stock will
affect the scion, and consequently the fruit pro-
duced from the tree grafted on a stock whose
fruit is different ; but during my practice I
never have known in any instance, the fruit to
become altered through the stock it was grafted
on : in order to . illustrate this fact as clearly as
possible, I will give my general opinion on the
subject.

It is necessary sometimes to convey our ideas
(particularly in writing, where it is subject
to every criticism) as plainly as possible ; I
shall therefore commence from the seed of the
stock.

In the first place, when the seed first spears,
(say the Crab,) its spear grows downwards, (the
same by a common bean or pea,) perhaps two
inches before we see the green seed leaf above
ground, this shews that the fund of vegetable
matter above ground, must be filtered through
the root, for without the root the tree cannot
grow, but the root might exist for some time,
although the head was cut down ; I am there-

DIFFERENT MODES OF GRAFTING. 67

fore most decidedly of opinion, that the stock in
some degree partakes of the nature of the scion
which is grafted on it ; for if we look at the
nature and constitution of a tree, and from prac-
tice mark its general progress, there cannot be
an existing doubt, that the roots, veins, fibres, or
whatever they may be called, which strike from
the scion into, the stock, must take root and run
downwards, and that to the very extremity
where the sap flaws ; this I am further convinced
of by putting the graft on the centre of the
stock instead of the side, for you always find
them make a considerably better growth, and
the trees are more durable ; therefore, if the
graft sends its roots down to the very extremi-
ties of the roots of the stock, it either becomes
impregnated, it must be the stock and not the
scion.

The same by budding; if nature had so
ordered it, that the stock should have had any
influence on grafting, much more must it have
had on budding, where there is nothing left but
the mere rind ; yet this small bud has been in
no instance ever known to degenerate on account
of the stock, if budded on a stock it was fond of.

68 OBSERVATIONS ON THE

What I mean by a bud being fond of a stock,
is such stocks as buds and grafts are usually
worked on: this is one very necessary branch of
a nurseryman's profession, when he has a new
fruit, to endeavour to find out such stock as is
best suited to its constitution, &c.

I remember many years back, when quite a
boy, a common white jasmine which was growing
against the house, and being fond even from my
earliest years of trying experiments among trees,
I took a bud from a striped jasmine, and budded
a branch of the green ; the bud grew, and what
shoots put forth below the bud, most of them
became blotch leaved ; this is a proof the bud or
graft must have an effect on the stock.

There are other modes of grafting, but which
are little noticed for fruit trees, except when the
trees are very large, and as it will not be foreign
to the present work I will mention them.

First, rind grafting ; this is principally prac-
tised on large trees. After cutting off the
branch of the tree (if with a saw it should be
made smooth with a knife) cut a slit in the rind,
about two inches from the top where it was cut

DIFFERENT MODES OF GRAFTING. 69

off, open the bark without bruising it, (the handle
of a budding knife is the best instrument,) then
cut a slice of your scion the length of the inci-
sion on the branch, nearly the same as described
in whip-grafting; run the scion down between
the rind and the wood, placing the wood of the
scion against the wood of the stock, then bind
it tight round with strong matting, and put clay
round it the same as directed in whip-grafting ;
when this method of grafting was more in prac-
tice, many would make a shoulder in the scion,
to rest it on the shoulder of the stock ; but this
I think unnecessary, as the two woods would not
gender without the bark, and there would be no
bark on the crown of the branch or stock : three
or four scions may be put on one large crown ;
but this method of grafting is by no means to be
recommended, for the winds are so apt to blow
them out, and if the bodies of the trees were
sound and worth grafting, and the branches were
too strong for whip-grafting, it would be far
better to cut them down nearly to the stem of
the tree, and the following year they would
throw out fine young wood for whip -grafting, and

70 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING.

rather than lose, you would save time by this
practice ; I have whip-grafted with success,
branches six and eight inches in circumference.
Grafting by approach, commonly called
enarching ; this method is principally practised
among exotics, consequently the fruit grower
will not feel interested in its detail, particularly
the apple grower, it being by no means neces-
sary ; this practice is principally adopted where
the scion and stocks will not unite freely by whip-
grafting.

CHAPTER II.

On Pears, Plums, Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots,
Grape Vines, fyc. fyc.

ON PEARS.

Par 77. — What has already been said on the
culture of apples, will generally apply to pears ;
the budding, grafting, pruning, and general
management being the same, excepting that they
are worked on different stocks. The stock which
is generally used, (and which is decidedly the
best for standard pear trees,) is raised from the
seed of the small wild pear, which like the true
crab is more durable than those grown from
other pears, It has many years been the prac-
tice in France, and several parts of the Con-

72 ON PEARS.

tinent, to graft pears on quince stocks, and in
this country they have been found to answer
extremely well as dwarfs, for they come into
bearing much earlier than those on the pear
stock, and the fruit exceedingly fine, and by
keeping them spurred like dwarf apple trees,
they may be kept within any compass you wish,
as they do not grow near so strong as those on
the pear stock.

Many sorts of pears, which are generally
grown against walls, have got the name of bad
bearers through bad pruning, it being a general
method to spur them all indiscriminately ; at the
same time, some sorts scarcely ever bloom, ex-
cept at the extremities of the young shoots,
therefore, if they are removed it is impossible
to have fruit.

This may be easily remedied, when you have
discovered which sorts bear at the ends of the
shoot, by leaving a sufficient quantity of young
wood for that purpose.

The confusion in the names of pears is quite
equal to the apples; I shall therefore confine
myself in the explanatory list of pears which

LIST OF PEARS. 73

follows, to such sorts as are known to be good ;
and such as are sufficient for all purposes.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF PEARS.

Par. 78. — 1. Green Chisel; this is a small
green pear, very full of juice, and is remarkably
sweet ; it will ripen in early seasons in July.

2. Present de Malines; this pear is suited
either for the wall or standard ; in form much
like Williams' s Bonchretien; smooth skin, and
when ripe of a yellow colour ; the flesh is melt-
ing, and of a rich musky flavour, it is generally
a good bearer, and ripens late in the autumn.

3. Jargonelle ; this a fine early pear, ripe
about August; it is of a green colour with a
little russet next the sun, — it generally bears
well.

4. Windsor Pear; this is very fine fruit if
eaten in proper season ; it is of a green colour,
but when quite ripe turns yellow ; it should be
eaten just as it begins to change colour, or it
will soon become mealy and good for nothing ;
it ripens about the end of August.

5. Hambden Burgamot ; this is rather a large

E

74 LIST OF PEARS.

pear, fine melting flesh and full of juice : it is
ripe about the end of September.

6. Autumn Burgamot ; this pear, which is of
rather a small size, and handsomely formed, is
one of the finest flavoured melting pears in cul-
tivation ; it is perfection in October.

7. Crasanne ; this is a very fine pear for the
wall ; the flesh is very tender, and full of fine
sweet juice ; I know not so good a pear in De-
cember and the beginning of January.

8. Colmar, is a fine rich sweet pear ; it is best
adapted for the wall, being a bad bearer as a
standard ; it is in perfection about January.

9. Virgoleuse ; this is a fine melting pear, full
of rich juice ; it would be more generally culti-
vated, but in wet seasons they are very apt to
crack ; it ripens about the end of December.

10. St. Germain; this is a very fine melting
pear, full of juice and a general bearer; an east
wall will bring the fruit to the greatest perfection ;
at the same time, they will do well as standards
in sheltered situations ; they are ready for the
dessert in December, and I have eaten them in
March.

LIST OF PEARS. 75

11. Spanish Bonchretien ; this is a good win-
ter pear, and rather generally admired ; it grows
large against a wall, and will keep till January,

12. Brown Beurre ; this is one of the best late
autumn pears we have ; they do best against a
wall, where they will grow large, of a brown
colour, and rather tinged with red ; it is a fine
juicy melter ; and is in perfection through No-
vember.

13. Winter Bonchretien ; this is highly es-
teemed for its long keeping ; it is very large, full
of rich juice, and will keep till June.

14. Chaumontelle ; this is a fine rich juicy
pear ; is a great bearer either as a dwarf or
standard, and will come into eating in December.

15. Poire D'Auch ; this is a handsome green
pear of excellent flavour ; is a good bearer, and
I may add, there are but few winter pears
which equal it; it is fine from December to
the end of March : — it is best suited for the
wall.

16. Citron D'Carlmes ; this is rather a small
pear of a greenish colour, it is a great bearer,
and is ripe in July. 1

E2

76 LIST OF PEARS.

17. Williams's Bonchretien ; this is a very
juicy fine pear; is a good bearer, and ripens
about September.

18. Swan's Egg ; this pear is too generally
known to require much comment ; it is of an
egg shape, and of a brownish green colour ; it
is a melting pear, full of very fine flavoured
juice, and one of the greatest bearers in cultiva-
tion ; it is ripe in November, and is good at
Christmas. .

19. Paddington or Tarling ; this pear is much
esteemed for its long keeping ; it is a handsome
fruit of a yellowish colour when ripe ; it is good
from March till the end of May — best suited for
the wall.

20. Golden Buerre ; this is a fine fruit, full
of very fine juice, with melting flesh ; it is in per-
fection about November, and is a general bearer
against a wall.

21. Bishop's Thumb; this pear will do well
for wall or standards ; it is a long brown fruit,
large towards the eye, and tapering towards the
stalk ; it is a great bearer, and is good in Decem-
ber, •

LIST OP PEARS. 77

22. Gansell'«s Burgamot ; this pear for its rich
melting flesh, and abundance of fine flavoured
juice, is decidedly the finest pear of its season ;
it is rather a shy bearer, but will do best against
a wall ; I have often seen fine crops on
standards; it is in high perfection in Novem-
ber.

23. Cardiliac ; this is a large pear generally
used for baking, and if they can be gathered
sound late in the Autumn, they will be good for
that purpose through the winter ; it is a good
bearer, but being generally cultivated as stand-
ards, and the fruit growing so large, the high
winds are very apt to shake them off.

24. Seckle ; this pear among the new varie-
ties is very much esteemed ; it is of a middling
size, full of very fine sweet juice, and will bear
well as standards, — is in eating about October.

25. Maria Louisa ; this is a very fine pear ;
the flesh is melting and full of fine juice ; the
wood is weeping and best adapted for the wall :
at the present day it is esteemed as highly as any
of the new varieties, and will no doubt be gene-
rally cultivated.

78

LIST OF PEARS,

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PEARS.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described

in the explanatory List
Par. 79.—

Ashton Town

* Autumn Burgamot
Awken

Beurre De Roi
Burre de Aremberg
*Bishop's Thumb
Bloody
Britannia
Brocas Burgamot

* Brown Beurre
Burdelieu
*Cardiliac
Catherine
*ChaumontelIe
*Colmar

Cohnar D. Pache
*Crasanne
*Citron de Carlmes
Dauphine

*D'Auch or Poire D'Auch
Delicis Lardenpont
Dutch Burgamot

*Gansell's Burgamot
Germain Muscal
*Golden Beurre
Gray Beurre
*Green Chisel
*Hambden Burgamot
Holland Burgamot
*Jargonelle
Lammas
La Pastorelle
Little Muscat
*Maria Louisa
Moorfowl Egg
Napoleon
Orange Burgamot
*Paddington or Tarling
*Passe Colmar
*Poire d; Ananas
*Present de Maline^
Quos Madam
Red Muscatelle
*Seckle

PLUMS. 79

*Spanish Bonchretien Vergoleuse

*St. Germain Vine Pear

Summer Burgamot Williams' Bonchretien

*Swan's Egg *Windsor

*Urbaniste *Winter Bonchretien

*Uvedel's St. Germain Winter Russelet

*Vanmons

PLUMS.

Par. 80. — We have not to complain so much
of the coining of names for plums, as for apples
and pears : nevertheless, a confused nomencla-
ture has found its way among them ; however,
I trust that those I shall mention in the expla-
natory list will be so clearly described, that every
person will be satisfied of his competency to de-
cide on each particular sort when he sees the
fruit ; and more especially as plums cannot be
so easily mistaken, because the soils or situation
will not have the same effect in changing their
character, as they have on some other fruits.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF PLUMS.

Par. 81 . — Orleans ; this plum is a fine large

80 PLUMS.

rich fruit, it is a great bearer, and good for all
purposes.

2. Poupart's plum ; this plum was raised from
seed, by Mr. James Poupart, near Fulham ; it is
a very great bearer, of a red colour, and rather
a long form, it is a tolerable good plum, but
best suited for culinary purposes.

3. Blue Perdigron; this plum is of a very
dark blue colour, is good flavoured, and ripens in
August.

4. White Bonum Magnum, or Egg Plum ;
this is a very great bearer, the fruit is large, i»
the form of an egg, and very handsome ; it is
not a bad eating plum, though it is principally
used for baking ; it ripens in September.

5. Red Bonum Magnum, or Red Imperial ;
this is a large red plum in the form of an egg, it
is a good bearer, but like the white, it is princi-
pally used for culinary purposes ; it ripens early
in October.

6. La Roy ale ; is a very fine flavoured plum
of a red colour ; this being rather tender in the
bloom, it succeeds best against a west wall ; it
ripens late in September.

PLUMS. 81

7. Downton Imperatrice ; this plum was
raised by Mr. Knight of Downton, and said to
be a seedling from the white Magnum Bonum,
claiming the blue Imperatrice, for its male
parent ; it is considered a good plum and a tole-
rable bearer.

8. Drap d'Or ; this plum is very much admired,
and is a general bearer, particularly against a
wall ; it ripens late in September.

9. Green Gage ; this plum is too well known
to require much being said of it ; it is decidedly
the finest plum in cultivation ; it ripens late in
August. There are several new varieties of
this plum, but all are very inferior to the ori-
ginal, or which is generally called, the royal
Green Gage.

10. Blue Imperatrice ; this is one of the best
late plums we have ; it is best adapted for the
wall, and when perfectly ripe9 there is no plum
of its season equal to it for sweetness ; it ripens
in October, and I have eaten fine ones from the
trees in the middle of November.

11. La Diliciuse; this a large red American
plum, said to have received its name from Charles

E 5

82 PLUMS.

the Tenth. Some English nurserymen have
named it after their own bent, I believe without
any legitimate claim to its origin ; it is very pecu-
liar in its habit, both of its wood and its foliage,
the fruit is of a large size, oval purplish colour,
rich and juicy, and makes an excellent preserve,
ripens about the end of September or beginning
of October.

12. Saint Catharine; this is a good plum and
is a good bearer ; it is ripe in September, and
will hang a long time on the tree.

13. Winesour ; this plum is much esteemed
for preserving ; it is a late plum, and is a good
bearer.

1 4. La Mirabelle ,• this is a handsome small
yellow plum, very full of juice ; it is ripe about
the middle of September, and is a good bearer.

15. Coe's Golden Drop; this plum is of a
fine amber colour, much in the form of the white
egg plum, and of about half the size ; they bear
well as standards or against the wall, and when
ripe, the flavour is very fine, and certainly the
most beautiful plum for the dessert, of its
season ; it ripens towards the end of September.

PLUMS. 83

16. Kirke's fine Red Plum; this plum, which
comes in just after the Orleans, is large, fine
flavoured, and is a good bearer ; it deserves to
he brought into general cultivation.

17. Street's Plum, or St. Lowe; this plum,
which is a great bearer, exceeds all I ever saw
for size ; it is much in the form of the Orleans,
but considerably larger and very handsome ; it
is of a red colour, and generally carries a good
bloom on the fruit; they bear well as stand-
ards, or against the wall ; it ripens about Sep-
tember.

18. Blue Gage ; this is a most excellent plum
for the wall, the flavour is very fine, and it is ge-
nerally a good bearer.

19. Early Orleans ; this is rather earlier than
the old Orleans plum ; it is a good bearer, and
the fruit is very much admired.

20. Yellow Orleans ; this is a beautiful trans-
parent plum, nearly as large as the old Orleans^
good flavoured, and very handsome for the des-
sert ; it will bear well as a standard ; it ripens
about September.

84 LIST OF PLUMS.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLUMS.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described

in the explanatory List.
Par. 82.—

Admirable

Mirabelle

Apricot Plum

Morocco

Avone

•Orleans Red

*Blue Perdigron

* Early

Brignole

AJ,rt-w l7r»v.1-«T

*Blue Gage

Yrllrvw

*Blue Imperatrice

*Poupart's Seedling

Blue Matchless

Precos de Tours

*Catharine

Pruin

*Coe's Golden Drop

Queen Mother

*Downton Imperatrice

Reian Claude Violet

*Drap d'Or

Red Diaper

Early Amber

Royal Dauphin

Fotheringham

^Street's Large Red

Goliah

Sharp's Emperor

*Green Gage

Stoneless

Gross Mirabelle

Violet

Jaune Hative

White Bullace

*Kirke's Large Red

White Damson

*La Mirabelle

White Imperatrice

*La Royale

White Pear

*La Diliciuse

White Perdigron

*Magnum Bonum White

*Wine Sour

*Magnum Bonum Red

Yellow Gage

CHERRIES. 85

CHERRIES.

Par. 83. — The culture of cherries in this
country being rather large, and profitable to
grow, it is necessary to make a few observations
on the constitution of this tree. •

There is no fruit tree I know of more subject
to gum than the cherry, which is frequently
caused by the land, particularly if the bottom is
strong clay ; the most essential point to be ob-
served in planting orchards of this fruit, is to
select those trees which have been budded stand-
ard high, for those budded within a few inches
of the ground, and trained up for standards,
are very liable to sink below the bud, which is
which almost sure to cause the tree to decay
early.

Likewise, this should always be observed in
planting of dwarf trained cherries, to keep the
bud or graft a few inches above the surface of the
earth ; for if cherries once begin to gum, they
seldom recover. I have given a description of
some of the best sorts, which will be found in the
explanatory list.

86 CHERRIES.

There is no stock so durable for budding and
grafting cherries on as the small wild black
cherry, the seed of which should always be select-
ed for that purpose.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF CHERRIES.

Par. 84. — 1. May-duke ; this cherry which
ripens early in June against a south wall, is one
of the best cherries in cultivation : they are great
bearers as standards, and the flavour is very
fine.

2. Ronald's Black heart, or Circassian ; this
is a fine large black cherry and good bearer ; it
would deserve general cultivation, but the wood
in some soils is very apt to decay; it ripens
early in July.

3. Black-heart; this is a well known good
fruit, handsome, and a good bearer.

4. Arch-duke ; this is an exceeding fine
cherry, larger than the May-duke, and a good
bearer ; it is not properly in perfection till July.
This is a valuable cherry to grow for the
market.

5. Morella ; this cherry is one of the greatest

CHERRIES. 87

bearers, either as standards, or against a wall,
we have in cultivation ; it is large and handsome,
and in the month of October is nearly black, —
at this season it is a great addition to the
dessert; it is also fine for tarts and pre-
serving, and by far the best for putting in
brandy.

6. Bleeding Heart ; this is a very fine fruit, is
ripe about the middle of July, but it is not a gene-
ral bearer.

7. Harrison's Heart ; this by many persons is
considered a very fine cherry ; it comes in late for
the dessert, being ripe in August.

8. Black Coroon ; this is a very fine cherry,
and generally is a good bearer ; it ripens in July
and August.

9. Biggereau : this is a very fine cherry, and
is a great ornament to the dessert in July ; they
will do w«ll as standards, but the fruit will come
finer against a west wall.

10. Kentish ; the wood of this cherry very
much resembles the wood of the Morella, and
is one of the best to plant for orchards, thfc con-
stitution of the tree being strong, and the de-
mand for the fruit great, being consumed in

-88 CHEKRIES.

large quantities for kitchen purposes : it likewise
very much resembles the Flemish, for which it
is a very good substitute, being a better cherry
and a better bearer.

1 1 . Florence ; this is a most beautiful cherry
for the dessert, and will bear well as standards,
but the fruit will grow larger against the wall, —
the flavour is excellent.

12. Waterloo ; this cherry is one of the fine
productions of Mr. Knight ; it is a very fine
sweet flavoured fruit, and tolerably productive.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF CHERRIES.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described

in the explanatory List.
Par. 85.—

Adam's Crown Carnation

Amber Heart Churchill's Heart

*Arch-Duke Double Blossom

*Biggereau Early May

*Black Coroon Elton

Black Eagle Flemish

•Black Heart 'Florence

Black Tartarian Graffion

*Bleedirig Heart Harrison's Heart

APRICOTS. 89

Holman's late Duke Ox Heart

*Kentish *Ronald's Black Heart or

Kensington Duke Circassian

Knight's new Black Waterloo

Lady Southampton's Duke Weeping

* May-duke Wentworth Heart

Montmorencie White Heart

*Morella White Tartarian

APRICOTS.

Par. 86. — Various have been the opinions re-
specting the stocks generally used for budding
apricots, as they will grow on the muscle, the
Brussels, and the common plum stock ; but it is
a general opinion (and not without foundation)
that those budded on the Brussels stock are more
liable to decay.

Having tried the whole of the above stocks
for years past, I find none so well suited for
Apricots as the common plum stock, usually
called commoners, except the Royal Orange,
which does best on the muscle; there may be
many who will not agree with my recommending
the common plum before the muscle, for the
Moor Park, but I give it the decided preference.

90 APRICOTS

EXPLANATORY LIST OF APRICOTS.

Par. 87. — 1. Moor Park; this apricot is con-
sidered decidedly the best in cultivation ; it is a
very great bearer, the fruit is very fine, and de-
serves to be recommended before any other ; — it
ripens about the middle of August.

I have seen the Moor Park bear well as stand-
ards in the open ground.

2. Peach Apricot ; this is a fine large apricot,
very much like the Moor Park, and ripens about
the same time.

3. Turkey; this is a tolerably good apricot,
of rather a deep colour, but not very full of juice,
— it ripens late in August.

4. Red Masculine; this should always be
planted amongst a collection, for it comes in
earlier than most other sorts ; it is a small fruit,
red towards the sun when ripe, and is esteemed
for being ready before other sorts, — it ripens in
July.

5. Algiers ; this is a yellow apricot, of rather

LIST OF APRICOTS. 91

a flat shape, and good flavour ; it ripens in Au-
gust.

6. Small Orange Apricot; this is a great
bearer, and is grown principally for preserving,
and tarts.

7. Royal Orange; this is a fine apricot of a
yellow colour, — it is ripe in August.

8. Roman ; this is a large yellow apricot of a
good flavour, — it is ripe about the middle of Au-
gust.

9. Breda ; this is an excellent apricot, large,
of a yellow colour, full of fine flavoured juice,
and is a good bearer, — ripe about the end of
August : it may be planted as an open standard.

17. Brussels ; this is rather a small apricot,
but is a very great bearer, and is generally
preferred for planting as standards, in the
open ground ; it is of a red colour towards the
sun, and looks very handsome on the trees $ it
has a tart flavour which is generally admired
when grown on the open standards, — it is ripe
in September.

92 APRICOTS.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APRICOTS.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described

in the explanatory List.
Par. 88.—

Alberge Persian

*Algiers Portugal

Black Provence

*Breda *Red Masculine

* Brussels *Roman

Dutch *Royal Orange

Gold Blotched Leaved Temple

Grover's Breda • Transparent

*Moor Park *Turkey

*Orange White Masculine
•Peach

PEACHES AND NECTARINES.

Par. 89. — Peaches and Nectarines being so
much alike in nature and cultivation, what is
said of one will equally apply to the other ; it
appears, from the best authorities, that the
almond was the original parent of the above
fruits, and they grow freely budded on the
almond stock, but they are far more durable

PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 93

when budded on the plum. To enter here into
a detail of the different peaches and nectarines
which grow best on the different sorts of plums,
would be wholly unnecessary, as I do not consi-
der myself as writing complete and full instruc-
tions to render every one of my readers compe-
tent to fill the arduous labours of a nurseryman,
and to particularise each would rather tend to
confuse than inform; suffice it to say, that nei-
ther peach or nectarine will succeed on the
Brussels Stock, and the stocks generally used
for peaches and nectarines, which they like most,
are the Muscle and Pear plums.

It often occurs, that peaches and nectarines
swell too large for the stock they are budded on ;
this plainly denotes the stock is not suited to
the constitution of that variety; and this the
nurserymen in the neighbourhood of London
have made their study, and have brought it to
that perfection, which has given them a decided
superiority over most of their country contem-
poraries, who, generally speaking, have not
sufficient practice in this department ; indeed it
is no small matter of consideration, for it is not

94 LIST OF APRICOTS.

only the sum paid for the trees, but the morti-
fication (which can only be known to those who
have experienced it) after having planted the
trees a few years, of seeing them diseased and
and gradually dwindling away. Peaches will
grow by grafting, but they never do well, being
sure to gum, and get diseased where the scion
is put on the stock. In the explanatory list will
be found a description of the best sorts, with
their seasons for ripening, &c.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF PEACHES.

Par. 90. — Noblesse ; this peach is large and
handsome, of a whitish green colour, and inclined
to red where they are exposed to the sun ; it is
a fine melter, and very full of rich juice ; it is
a good bearer, and ripens early in September.

2. Montauban ; this is a fine melting peach,
and full of juice, of a deep red towards the
sun ; it is a good bearer, and ripens early in
September.

3. Vanguard ; this peach is in every respect
so much like the Noblesse that many persons
think it the same, but it is not ; the tree is rather
of stronger growth, and the fruit something

LIST OF PEACHES. 95

larger ; there is but little difference in their
time for getting ripe.

4. Red Nutmeg ; this is a small peach of a
deep red colour, and a good bearer ; it ripens
early in August, for which it is much esteemed.

5.. Early Ann; this peach is admired for being
early ; it is a good peach, and ripens about the
middle of August.

6. Royal George ; this is a fine old peach, of
a high colour next to the sun ; it is full of fine
sweet juice, a good bearer, and ripens 'early.
. 7. French Mignonne ; this is a large beautiful
peach of a red colour, a fine melter, and full of
sweet juice ; it is a good bearer, and ripens late
in August.

8. Royal Kensington ; this is a very fine peach,
and considered by many persons to be the same
as the French Mignonne; some trees being
sent from France as a present to her Majesty,
Queen Charlotte, it was called the Royal Ken-
sington.

9. Bourdine ; this is a fine melting peach, of
a red colour next to the sun; it is a great bearer,
and ripens about the end of September.

10. Red Magdalen; this is a large beautiful

96 LIST OF PEACHES.

peach, of a deep red colour, full of fine rich
juice, and ripens early in September. I have
seen this peach bear plentifully on standards in
the open ground.

11. Chancellor; this is a fine old peach, with
melting flesh, full of rich juice, and very hand-
some ; it ripens early in September.

12. Rosanna ; this is one of the greatest
bearers in cultivation; it is of a deep purple
next the sun, and is considered a good peach ;
it will bear well as a standard in the open ground ;
— it ripens in September.

13. Early Gallande ; this peach is highly es-
teemed, and is certainly one of the best peaches
we have ; it is a great bearer, very handsome,
and ripens early in September.

14. La Teton de Venus ; this is a fine rich
peach, rather a long form, of a pale red, and
ripens late in September.

15. Early Admirable; this is a large fine
peach, of a beautiful red colour next the sun ;
it is full of fine sweet juice, and ripens early in
September.

16. Monstrous Pavie of Pompone; this is

LIST OF PEACHES. 97

called by our market gardeners a Cling-stone
peach, but the French call all Pavies which do
not come clean from the stone ; it is cultivated
more for its size and beauty, than its excellence ;
it ripens about the middle of October.

17. Grim wood's Royal George ; this is a very
fine melting peach, a great bearer, and ripens
late in August.

18. Catharine ; this is a late good peach, but
will adhere to the stone ; it is of a fine red co-
lour towards the sun, is rich, and full of juice ;
it ripens late in October.

19. Late Admirable; this is a very fine melt-
ing peach, handsome, full of juice ; and ripens late
in September.

20. Old Newington ; this peach is handsome,
and of a deep red towards the sun ; it is tolera-
bly full of juice, but it will adhere to the stone ;
— it ripens about the end of September.

'21. Double Swalsh ; this is a very fine melt-
ing peach, — is ripe early in September.

22. Smoth-leaved Royal George; this is a
most excellent peach, full of fine rich juice,

98 LIST OF PEACHES.

handsome, and one of the greatest bearers we
have, — it is ripe early in September.

23. Violet Hative ; this is a fine high coloured
peach, melting flesh, with an abundance of rich
juice ; it is a good bearer, and ripens late in
August.

24. Millet's Mignion ; this is a very fine large
melting peach, and excellent for forcing, it not
being so subject to mildew as some sorts ; it is a
good bearer, — is ripe early in September.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PEACHES.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are describ ed
in the explanatory List.

Par. 91.—

Acton Scot Double Montagne

Belgarde Downton

Bell Chevreux * Early Admirable

*Bourdine * Ann

Braddick's Avant

Buckinghamshire Mignion — Purple Avant

Catharine * Gallande

*Chancellor - Purple

Double Blossom Newington

* Svralsh *French Mignion

LIST OF NECTARINES. 99

*Grimwood's Royal George *Nutmeg Red

Gross Mignion White

Incomparable *Red Magdalen

Java *Rosanna

*Late Admirable *Royal Kensington

Late Gallande *Royal George

*La Teton D'Venus *Smooth-Leaved Royal
Lowe's Large Melter George

*Millet's Mignion Spring Grove, or Persian
*Monstrous Pavie of Pom- Peach

pone *Vanguard

*Montauban *Violet Hative

*Newington White Magdalen

Nivette Yellow Alberge
*Noblesse

EXPLANATORY LIST OF NECTARINES.

Par. 92. — 1. Elruge ; this is one of the finest
nectarines we have ; it is of a good size, and a
great bearer ; the colour is a dark red towards
the sun, and a yellowish green next the wall ;
the flesh is fine and melting, and full of sweet
juice ; it ripens late in August : it is also a fine
nectarine for forcing.

2. Newington ; this is a very good Nectarine,
arid a great bearer, of a fine red colour, — it ad-

F2

100 LIST OF NECTARINES.

heres to the stone, but is full of fine sweet juice ;
it ripens early in September.

3. Red Roman ; this is an old well-known
good nectarine, of a deep red or purple next the
sun, and rather yellow on the wall side, — it is a
good bearer, and ripens early in September.

4. Brugnion ; this is a good^ nectarine, of a
deep red towards the sun, and a pale yellow
next to the wall ; it is fine eating when full ripe
from the tree, but soon loses its flavour after
it is gathered ; it ripens late in August.

5. Murrey : this is a very fine nectarine, of
a purple colour towards the sun, large, a good
bearer, full of fine sweet juice, and may be
considered one of the best; it ripens early in
September.

6. Golden or Temple Nectarine ; this is
handsome, of a light red towards the sun, and
yellow on the wall side ; it has plenty of juice,
and is generally admired ; it ripens late in
September.

7. Violet Hative; this is a most excellent
nectarine, of a deep red towards the sun ; it is

LIST OF NECTARINES. 101

a fine rich melting fruit, full of sweet juice, and
a good bearer ; it ripens late in August.

4

8. Fairchild's Early; this is a small early
nectarine, of a fine red colour, the flesh is melt-
ing and full of fine juice ; is ripe about the
middle of August.

9. Vermash ; this is a fine late nectarine, of a
green colour, a ^little inclined to red towards
the sun ; it ripens late in September.

10. Italian ; this is a fine large nectarine, of
a deep red next the sun, full of rich juice, and
is greatly admired ; it ripens early in Septem-
ber.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OP NEC-
TARINES.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described
in the explanatory List

Par. 93.-

Aromatic *Fairchild's Early

Brugnion Genoese

*Elruge 'Italian

102 GRAPE VINES.

*Murrey *Roman

Newfoundland St. Omers

*Newington *Temple

New White *Violet Hative

Old White *Vermash

Peterborough

GRAPE VINES.

Par. 94. — The principal part of this deli
cious fruit is grown in hot-houses and vineries,
as our climate will not admit of their coming to
perfection in the open air, excepting a few
sorts. Those will be found in the explanatory
list which will suit the different situations best.

I know of no grape for the open wall to
equal the Royal Muscadine ; it seldom fails to
ripen, is a great bearer, and a most excellent
grape for the dessert ; it also makes very fine
wine.

EXPLANATORY LIST OF GRAPE VINES.

Those marked with W..areforthe Wall— those V,
are for the Vinery — and those H. are the
Hot-house.
Par. 95. — 1. Royal Muscadine, by some

GRAPE VINES. 103

called the Malmsey ; this is an excellent grape
for the wall or vinery, the berries when ripe
are of an amber colour, large, round, and very
fine flavoured ; it is one of the best white grapes
we have for the open wall, for it is a great bearer
and seldom fails to ripen. W. V. H.

.2 Black Muscadine : this is a great bearer,
and will often ripen against the open wall : the
berries are handsome, having a very fine purple
bloom. V.

3. Black Damascus ; this is a very fine large
black grape, full of rich juice, and highly es-
teemed. H.

4. White Muscat of Alexandria; this grape
is in high estimation for the hot-house, the
berries are of a fine oval shape, the bunches
long and large, and the flavour much admired.
H.

5. White Muscat ; this is a good bearer, with
large berries of rather an amber colour. V. H.

6. White Chasselas, called by some the
White Muscadine ; this is a very good grape
for the wall, the berries rather resemble the
Royal Muscadine, but are not so large. W.

104 GRAPE VINES.

7. Elford's Seedling; this grape is remarkable
for its bearing, the seed being sown in January
1821, and fruit produced from the seedling was
exhibited at a meeting of the Horticultural
Society, on the 1st of October 1822 ; it is a
tolerably good grape. W. V.

8. The Black Tripoli; this is a very fine
black grape, with large berries, full of fine rich
juice. H.

9. Black Muscadel has rather a peculiar
flavour, but is generally considered pleasant,
the berries are black, of an oval shape, and
large. H.

10. Red Muscadel; the bunches of this grape
grow very large, and likewise the berries, which
are red. H.

1 1 . Black Alicant or Spanish ; this is a tole-
rably large sized black grape, and the flavour
were generally admired. V. H.

12. Black Frontinac ; the berries of this
grape are not very large, full of fine rich juice,
and are greatly admired. V. H.

13. White Frontinac ; the berries of this
grape are small and round, the bunches grow

GRAPE VINES. 105

long and tolerably large ; the juice has a very
peculiar flavour, but it is highly esteemed. W.
V. H.

14. Grizzly Frontinac ; this grape is rather
of a brown red colour, very fine, and generally
admired. V. H.

15. Red Frontinac ; the berries of this grape
are rather large, of a dingy red colour ; it is
considered a very fine grape. V. H.

16. Black Hamburgh; this grape, for the
hothouse or vinery, cannot be excelled; the
berries are large, round, and handsome, and the
bunches well formed ; it is a great bearer, and
of excellent flavour. V. H.

16. Red Hamburgh ; this is a tolerably good
grape, the berries are of a dark red colour.
V. H.

18. White Sweet Water ; the flavour of this
grape is most excellent, the berries are of a
tolerable size, but the bunches do not grow
handsomely. W. V. H.

19. New White Sweet Water; this is a most
excellent grape, a great bearer, and the bunches
not so irregular as the former. W. V. H.

106 GRAPE VINES.

10. Black Sweet Water ; this grape has a
small sweet berry which is very liable to cracks
consequently against the open wall is much
destroyed by birds and flies j it is an early
grape. W. V.

23. Black Cluster; this is a small black
grape, a great bearer, and covered when ripe
with a fine bloom. W.

22. White Raisin ; the berries of this grape
are very large, with a thick skin, the bunches
also grow very large and handsome. H.

23. Claret ; this grape has small black ber-
ries, with red juice ; it is not an agreeable fruit
to eat, but makes excellent wine. V. H.

24. Lombardy ; this is a large red grape,
the bunches grow very large and are full of
rich juice. V. H.

25. St. Peter's ; this grape is very black
when ripe, the berries are large, of an oval
shape, and the bunches very large ; it is a good
grape. V. H.

26. West's St. Peter's ; this is a fine black,
grape, now in high estimation, the bunches

GRAPE VINES. 107

come fine, the berries large, and flavour excel-
lent. V. H.

'27. Sir Abraham Pitcher's; this is a large
fine black grape, and greatly admired. V. H.

28. Black Prince ; this is one of the best black
grapes for the natural wall, as it seldom fails
to ripen, the bunches grow large, particularly
in the vinery, and the berries, which are tole-
rably large, are full of fine sweet juice ; it is now
much in request. W. V. H.

29. White Tokay ; this is a fine grape of very
delicate appearance, but rather a bad bearer. V.

30. Black Portugal; the berries of this grape
are of a middling size, and in favourable sea-
sons will ripen against the natural wall ; it is a
good grape. W. V. H.

108 LIST OF GRAPE TINES.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF GRAPE

VINES.

Those marked tvith an Asterisk (* ) are described
in the explanatory List.

Par. 96.—

Aleppo *Black Sweet Water

*Black Alicant * Tripoli

• Cluster *Chasselas

* Damascus *Claret

Esperion *Elford's Seedling

Frankendafl *Grizzly Frontinae

* Frontinac or Mus- *Golden Galacian

cat Noir *Lombardy

Gibraltar Malmsey

* Hamburgh Miller's Burgundy

Lisbon Malvoise or Blue Tokay

Morillon Muscat of Alexandria

Morocco Muscatelle

* Muscadel *New White Sweet Water

Muscadine *Red Frontinac or Muscat

Muscat Rouge

Portugal Constantia

- Prince *; Hamburgh

— Sir Abm, Pitcher's * Muscadel

* St, Peter's Muscat

LIST OF FIGS.. 109

Red Raisin White Nice

Smyrna Parsley Leaved

Muscat of Alexandria Raisin

Muscat of Jerusalem Syrian

Syracuse Muscat of Lunel

*Royal Muscadine Cornichon

Tottenham Park Muscat Hamburgh

*West's St. Peter's Olcobaca

*White Sweet Water Morillon

* Frontinac Muscat

* Muscat of Alex- * Teneriffe

andria * Tokay

EXPLANATORY LIST OF FIGS.

Par. 97. Yellow Ischia, is a large fine fla-
voured fruit, with a yellow skin and deep red
flesh ; it is ripe about the middle of October.

2. Brown Naples Fig ; this fruit is long, of
a brown colour, well-flavoured, and is a good
bearer; it ripens early in October. In good
seasons this fig will ripen well on standards.

3. Green Ischia; this has a thin green skin,
with a brown cast; when ripe, the inside is a
deep red inclining to purple; it is a good fig, and
ripens late in September.

4. Malta; this is a fine flavoured, small brown

110 LIST OF FIGS.

fig ; the wood is rather tender, but if the wood
ripens well, it is generally a good bearer; it
ripens early in September.

5. Black Ischia; this fig is one of the great-
est bearers we have; the fruit when ripe is
nearly black, of a small size, but finely flavoured;
it is good for forcing, wall or standards, and
ripens early.

6. Large White Genoa ; this is a large fig,
with a thin skin of pale yellow ; it is a fine
fruit, good bearer, and ripens late in August or
beginning of September; it is a good fig for
forcing.

7. Black Genoa; this is a long dark fig,
quite red inside, is fine flavoured, and ripens
early.

8. Small White Fig; this is a small, pale
yellow fruit, of very good flavour, a great
bearer, and will do well as standards; it ripens
early.

9. Large Brown Ischia ; this fig grows very
large, — it is brown outside, and purple within,
is fine flavoured, and will often produce two
crops in the year: it ripens early.

LIST OF FIGS.

Ml

10. Black Italian; this is a small fig of a
very fine flavour ; it is one of the best for grow-
ing in pots, being a very great bearer.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF FIGS.

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described
in the explanatory List.

Par. 98.—
* Black Genoa

* • — Ischie

* Italian

Blue Ischie
Brown Ischie

* — Naples

Common Blue
*Green Ischie

Madona
* Maltese

Murrey
•Small Early White

Turkey Large Black
•White Genoa
•Yellow Ischie

Par. 99.—

Golden Striped
Silver Striped

CHESTNUTS.

Spanish
Virginian

112 BARBERRIES, QUINCES, &ct

BARBERRIES.

Par. 100.—

Black Sweet

Common Red with Stones.

Red without Stones

QUINCES.

Par. 101.—

Apple Quince

Oblong

Portugal

WALNUTS.

Par. 102.—

Black Virginian or French Walnut

Hickery Large Walnut

Cob Walnut Small Walnut
Double Walnut

FILBERTS AND HAZLE NUTS.

Par. 103.—

Barcelona or Spanish Nut Cosford Nut

Cluster Wood Nut Dwarf Prolific Nut

Cob Nut Red Filbert

Common Wood Nut White Filbert

RASPBERRIES, STRAWBERRIES, &C. 113
RASPBERRIES.

Par, 104.—

Double-bearing Red Large Red

White Red Antwerp

Early White Smooth Cane

STRAWBERRIES.

Par. 105.—

Alphine Nairn's Scarlet

Bath Scarlet New Hautboy

Carolina Pine Apple

Chili Roseberry

Downton Scarlet

Keen's Imperial Suranam

New Seedling Wilmot's Scarlet

Knight's Seedling Black Imperial

Mathevin Castle Wood Strawberry

CURRANTS.

Par. 106.—

Black American Long Bunched Red

Common Red Common

Large Pale Red Cham- White Common

paigne Dutch

114

GOOSEBERRIES.

COMMON GOOSEBERRIES IN THIS COUNTRY.

Par. 107.—

Champaigne Large Rough Yellow

Common White Large Smooth Dutch Yellow

Early Black Yellow

Green Gascoin Small Early Yellow

Hairy and Smooth Red Smooth Green

RED GOOSEBERRIES.

Alcock's King Fox's Jolly Smoker

Boardman's Royal Oak Hall's Porcupine

Brundret's Atlas Lomax Victory

Chapman's Peerless Mason's Hercules

Dean's Glory of England Taylor's Volunteer

Duke of York Warrington

Farlow's Lord Hood Worthington's Glory of
Fisher's Conqueror Eccles

GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.
Chadwick's Hero Royal Green Gage

Dean's Lord Hood Smith's Mask

Mill's Langley Green Yeates's Duke of Bedford

Reid's Satisfaction

WHITE GOOSEBERRIES.
Atkinson's White Hall Gibson's Apollo

Chapman's Highland White Kenyon's Noble
D avenport's Lady Woodward's Whitesmith

GOOSEBERRIES.

115

COLLECTION OF VERY FINE SORTS OF GOOSE-
BERRIES.

Ackerley's Double Bearer Nixon's Golden Eagle
Costerdina Goliah
Golden Drop
Goliah Champion
Hampson's Bearer
High Sheriff
Jackson's Golden Orange
Layford's Seedling

Monk's Charles Fox

Ridding's Old England
Royal George
Roy den 'Ns Triumph
Rumbulion
Sparkler
Supreme Red
White Walnut
Worthington's Lilly.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 108. — THE generality of practical hor-
ticulturalists have been inclined to despise the
theorist, but since the study has now become
not only a fashionable but a profitable source
of amusement, it has led many scientific theorists
to furnish the practical man with much useful
information, which the latter has been able to
improve on ; and from experiments and practice
placed England on a level, and, I may add, in a
superior situation to all foreign countries in this
respect. The knowledge I possess on this sub-
ject, as well as gardening in general, has certainly
been greatly assisted by the study of different
works which have appeared on these subjects ;

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 117

but because their authors may not have under-
stood practically what they treated of, is no
reason why I should be the less sensible of the
obligations I am under to them. Yet, it may be
said, these works are mostly produced from
ancient writings, as the substance of most of them
was known and treated of by our forefathers :
but ought this to be allowed to depreciate the
merit of their labours? Would the practical
man, I would ask, give himself the trouble to
search after these ancient works, did he know of
their existence, putting out of the question the
expense he would be at, (as most books, after a
certain date, become scarce, and are then much
enhanced in value,) and would he, when their
attainment was accomplished, find himself com-
petent to suggest the improvements made by
most modern authors ? I will (speaking col-
lectively) fearlessly answer with regard to the
first, he would not be at the trouble ; and with
the second, he would be fully sensible of the
wide difference between imaginary and actual
powers of improving. Thus might we proceed
in the jog-trot pace of antiquity, were it not for

118 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

the intelligence and encouragement of modern
times.

One thing we much cause to lament, which
is, the premature decay of some of our most
ornamental and useful timber trees, particularly
the elm, which is caused by a most destructive
insect: the tree is first maltreated by bruises
on the bark, or otherwise injured, then follows
this destructive insect, which, in one of its stages,
eats into the tree, and rapidly consumes it ; these
serious appearances are to be discerned exten-
sively Kensington Gardens, and many other
places. I would here hazard an opinion, from
having made it my study for many years ; but as
the cause may only have been an oversight in
those who have the care of them, it might appear
officious and misplaced in a work of this nature.

I shall now, previous to drawing to a con-
clusion, make a few additional remarks on plant-
ing of orchards. The first thing to consider,
when orchards are about to be planted, is the
soil which will best suit the different sorts of
fruit; if it is a fine deep, loamy soil, all kinds of
fruit trees will succeed on it ; but standard

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 119

apples and pears will not do well on any other ;
plums (although they like loam) will do well on
a sandy or gravelly soil, provided the gravel be
not too near the surface ; cherries will likewise
succeed on various soils, although they do best
on a light loam.

When an orchard is about being planted on a
fertile piece of land, (particularly when it is in-
tended for family use,) the various explanatory
lists of fruits should be consulted, and a selection
made therefrom (according to the size of the
orchard) of all the different fruits, consisting of
Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Medlars, Wal-
nuts, Chesnuts, Damsons, Mulberries and Quin-
ces, the whole of which are useful in their seasons
for the dessert and culinary purposes, although a
few only of some of the sorts will be necessary,
they ought to be planted, to complete the orchard.
It is an advisable plan to plant a row of Wal-
nut trees on the north or north-east side of the
orchard, as they will greatly break the winds
from the bloom of the other trees ; for although
the walnut is much later than many fruits in
producing its leaves, it greatly assists in protect-

120 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

ing the neighbouring bloom from the east and
north-east blasts, from which it generally suffers
more than from any other cause, and the walnut
itself from being so late in the season before it
is in bloom, it is less likely to suffer than most
other fruits.

Indeed, if we could protect the peaches and
nectarines while in bloom, we should have them
as fine and plentiful in the open ground in this
country as they are in America ; but the peach
and nectarine producing its bloom before they
put forth their leaves, the cold east wind, which
we are almost invariably subject to in England,
in the early part of the spring, is too sharp for
the tender bloom, and consequently they seldom
produce a crop, except in sheltered situations.
On the contrary, in North America, although
they are subject to very severe weather through-
out the winter, when the frost breaks up and the
spring commences, they generally have a con-
tinuance of fine mild weather, therefore the
growth of this fruit has a preference ; indeed,
they are in the habit of planting orchards of
peaches and nectarines as common as we do
apples.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 121

Before I leave this subject, it will be necessary
to speak of the increasing value land would be
brought to by cultivating it with apples.

As one acre contains one hundred and sixty
square rods, and each rod measures sixteen feet
and a half square, if the trees were planted at a
rod apart, it would of course take one hundred
and sixty trees ; or if they were planted wider,
say one hundred to the acre, we have then to
consider what would be the average profit arising
from it. In the first place, while the trees are
in a young state, the injury will be so trifling to
the under crops, for the first five or six years, as
to be scarcely worthy of notice ; and by planting
good apples and sure bearers, in that time their
produce would more than pay every expense of
the purchase of the trees and planting, and from
that time the profits would every year increase as
the trees grew larger ; on the seventh year from
planting, suppose you could only ensure one
bushel from each tree, making one hundred
bushels, (this is putting it at the lowest calcula-
tion,) and each bushel worth five shillings, this
will amount to twenty-five pounds ; and allowing

122 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

every future year the fruit of each tree to increase
in value only sixpence, from the increasing growth
of the tree for twenty years, which by planting
at that distance they would have sufficient room
to do, it would make the produce of each tree
worth fifteen shillings, and the gross produce of
the acre worth seventy-five pounds per year, in-
dependent of the meadow.

In this statement, it must be allowed, I have
stated the average produce at the lowest, having
allowed each tree at the age of twenty-seven
years to produce only three bushels, and each
bushel at five shillings ; and as the demand for
apples is, and always will be very great, I know
of no crop the land could produce that would
tend to a more sure or greater source of profit.

And lastly, it ought to be borne in mind, that
the apple provides the dessert at seasons when
we can scarcely have have any other of our own
produce ; and also the pudding and pie, which
we cannot conveniently procure at all seasons
from other fruit, which is, from the tart, to the
dumpling made for the peasant's child, of uni-
versal service as well as a luxury.

END OF PART I,

PART II.

CHAPTER T.

General Description of Hothouses intended for Pines,
including situations, aspects, fyc. ; also instructions for
Pits and Hot-beds.

Par. 1. THE site on which to erect a hot-
house, should be selected where, if possible., it
will receive the benefit of the sun from the
earliest time in the morning until the evening
without obstruction from other buildings, trees,
or any other causes ; likewise it would be equally
desirable, if convenient, to select a spot which
is naturally dry, and sheltered at the back.

G 2

124 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

Many new designs for hothouses have recent-
ly been introduced with the usual recommenda-
tion consequent on ushering them into notoriety;
but although I am in favour of some newly in-
vented glass-houses for other purposes, I am
decidedly of opinion, taking all things into con-
sideration, that there is not any formed which is
so well suited for the main, or general pinery, as
the first I shall describe.

The structure should extend lengthways, from
east to west, the back formed of a sound brick
wall on the north, from eight to sixteen feet
high, as the size of the house may require, and
glass-work on the south, east and west, with up-
right moveable sashes in the front, in frames
placed on a brick foundation, raised about
eighteen inches or two feet from the ground ;
also both ends to be formed of glass-work in
fixed sashes placed on brick -work to correspond
with the front and back walls, with a door half
glazed at one or both ends, according to the
size of the house, the roof likewise to be formed
of glazed, sloping, moveable sashes, extending
from the north wall downwards to the top of the

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 1*25

sashes in front ; and for the information of those
not well versed in hothouse building, a more
detailed statement may be useful.

Upon the low front walls, a plate or frame of
wood is placed, of sufficient strength and sub-
stance to contain the uprights, to be also formed
of wood, which should be from three feet to three
feet and-a-half apart, and formed so as to contain
the upright sashes, which may be from three to five
feet high, more or less as the size of the house
will require, with another brace-plate, or plate of
wood along the top of the uprights, to fix and se-
cure them in; and from the top of this front upright
frame-work, rafters are extended to the top of
the back wall, three feet to three feet and a half
apart for the support of the sloping top sashes ;
of the same widtji as the upright, and the top
sashes, ranged; in two or three tiers, one above
another, according to the width of the house,
so constructed that they may slide up and down
as occasion requires, and if made to slide upon
rollers, it will be by far more convenient to let
up and down, with pullies, particularly when
expedition is required in stormy weather, &c. ;
the front upright sashes may be formed nearly

126 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

the same as window sashes, made either to slide
or swing open, or shut with ease, and the top
sashes made of sufficiently strong outside frame-
work, with narrow bars of wood grooved out, in
which to lay the glass, ranged lengthways, six,
eight, or nine inches apart ; the glass to be laid
in putty on the ledges or bars, with the ends
lapped over one another about half an inch,
having the puttying work neatly and closely
performed, thoroughly water-tight, and the
whole of the wood- work should be properly
painted.

The dimensions of the pinery must entirely
depend upon circumstances, according to the
size of the establishment, the wish of the pro-
prietor, or the general intentions for which the
pinery is formed ; it may be from ten to fifty feet
long or more, from eight, ten, to fifteen feet
wide, and when the house is wide and lofty, the
top rafters should be supported by uprights in
the centre of the house ; these should not be
larger than really necessary, both as regards
their appearance, and also the room they take
up, together with obstructing the rays of the

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 127

sun, therefore solid iron uprights, of a round
form, are generally to be preferred, and if about
three inches in diameter, they will be of sufficient
strength to support the largest rafters required ;
— if well fixed at the bottom and top, and per-
fectly upright, and being painted will not dis-
figure the house.

Although I have stated thus much as a
general outline about the external formation of
the hothouse, I beg to remark, that if not
absolutely necessary, it is highly desirable, to
employ persons for such works, who have been
accustomed to hothouse building, otherwise it
ought to be under the superintendence of the
experienced gardener, in order to prevent the
house from being badly constructed, which after-
wards proves injurious to the crops, and fre-
quently causes much inconvenience and disap-
pointment ; but the best guarantee is to employ
a practical horticultural surveyor, whose judg-
ment and probity can be relied upon.

The internal part of the hothouse arrange-
ments will also require care and judgment. In
the first place, the flues, which must range in a

128 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

horizontal form, should be so constructed that
the heat may he conveyed to all parts of the
house ; and it is of great advantage to have them
detached from the walls two or three inches or
more, that they may give the heat from both
sides. It is highly requisite to carry one flue
along the front, and both ends of the house, con-
tinued to that behind, being of considerable
utility in resisting the severity of the frost, cold
damps, £c. ; and the back flues should be ar-
ranged in two or three returns, one over the
other, the uppermost terminating with a chimney
for carrying off the smoke, after having passed
through all the flues. Generally the walls of the
flues should be made of brick on edge only, that
they may impart the heat early and with more
effect, six or nine inches in width, by twelve deep
in the clear. Good mortar should be used to the
brick- work, and made very close at the joints, to
prevent any smoke oozing out into the house.
The insides may be thinly plastered, and each
range, and the returns, covered with paving tiles,
also closely cemented.

When the hothouse is of very wide dimensions,

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 129

and long in proportion, say forty feet or more,
two or more fire-places will be necessary, each
having its separate range of flues, divided into
equal proportions, with a chimney attached to
each division. Where there are two pits ranged
along the house, one before the other, then the
flue may be carried along the space between
them ; but in this case the flue must be detached
from the bark pit bed, not less than two or
three inches, to prevent the heat drying the
bark too much, or it might be in danger of
taking fire by accident, through overheating the
flues : but for houses of moderate width, with
only one pit, the flues ranged round the house
as described above, will be sufficient.

It will be necessary occasionally to cleanse the
flues when they become clogged with soot, for
which purpose, places should be contrived in the
brickwork, at convenient distances, to make a
small opening, or by the removal of tiles ; but
be careful that those apertures are made per-
fectly secure again.

At the furnace, or commencement of the first
flue, it is requisite to have a regulator or register,

G 5

130 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

with a sliding plate of iron, in a frame of irots
fixed in the brickwork near the fire-place, to-
slide across the flue, occasionally to reduce the
heat when it may be too "powerful, or to admit it
more strong when necessary.

The fire-place or furnace from which the flues-
proceed, should be constructed outside the hot-
house at the back, the heat conveyed through a
single funnel, along next the end and front walls-
being continued to that behind. The fire-place
may be at one end or in the middle, and the
grate, formed of iron-work, should be about
fifteen or eighteen inches below the lowest flue,
which will give a proper draught for the smoke
and heat to ascend without returning ; also the
fire-place should be formed about twelve or four-
teen inches wide by about eighteen or twenty
deep, with an arched top, having an iron door
on hinges, placed at the mouth, to shut close, and
to be confined with a latch or catch.

It is a desirable plan to have the fire-places
inclosed under a shed, for by being defended from
the weather both above and on the sides, is very
advantageous in preserving the regularity of the-

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 131

fires, which is (particularly at times) of con-
siderable importance.

The pit for the bark bed should extend
nearly the whole length, and the width in pro-
portion to that of the house, from five to eight
feet, leaving a passage or walk all round between
the flues and the pit, of eighteen inches or two
feet. The walls of the pit should be about three
to three-and-a-half feet in height, composed of
thin brick -work, sinking the bottom about one
foot below the surface, unless the soil is naturally
wet underneath; in that case it is better not
sunk at all. The bottom of the pit should be
paved with bricks or paving tiles, and the top of
the brick-work be secured with a plate of wood.
In large pineries of considerable width, two pits
are sometimes erected, to range parallel, one
before the other, separated by a passage be-
tween, the largest and highest pit behind for the
large fruiting pines, and a lower and smaller one
in front for the succession of small plants ; and
when the house is of great length, a division
across the centre of the pits is very convenient,
and, where the width of the house will permit, a

132 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOtJSE^

flue can be carried along between the two .pits?
lengthways, as before named. But the plan to
be most recommended, both for convenience and
appearance, and I may add, success, is to have
one pit only in each house, and to have the suc-
cession house or houses built at one end, or both
in one range, to correspond with the main pinery?
divided inside by a partition of glass-work only.
This will be very advantageous, both for raising
the young plants, and also to forward the whole
of the succession, until they arrive at a proper
age and strength for placing finally in the main
pinery for fruiting ; or when a succession house
is built detached from the principal pinery, the
same form of building as the latter will likewise
suit for the former, although generally of less
dimensions. Having seen much practice with
steam and hot water, I may here observe that I
intend under the head of steam and hot water,
to give a more comprehensive opinion relative to
heating pineries ; and before I finish this treatise
I intend to spare neither pains nor expense in
order to become thoroughly satisfied in every
particular relative to the properties of hot water

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 133

and steam for such purposes ; which I consider
highly necessary, after the various theories which
have appeared on the subject, prior to recom-
mending its general adoption, particularly as it
is now recommended by some for growing pines
to maturity, without tan or any other heat ; and
I think such caution the more necessary since
the management of pines under the above prin -
ciple of constructing the hothouse, and the treat-
ment alluded to, has stood the test, and proved
so eminently successful for so many years.

Nevertheless, as it must be expected that a
work of this nature will include the new plans of
the present day, and as I am far from clinging to
the old, where improvements are at all visible in
,the new, I will next give a description (or at
least copy a description from the transactions of
the Horticultural Society) of a pinery which is
stated to have succeeded with steam, without the
aid of a bark pit or any other heat ; but I may
here state that hot water heating is evidently
superseding that of steam, being of much less
trouble, and also less dangerous, while its pro-
perties may be considered quite equal if not

134 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

superior to steam for horticultural purposes,
Nay more, I have the satisfaction in stating,
that when I have recommended the hot water
system, where I have been employed in making
improvements, or forming new gardens, it has
received great praise, both from my employers
and their gardeners, where properly managed ;
therefore, although I am not at present going
the length of some as regards pines, still I intend,
in a future stage of the work, to recommend its
adoption for those purposes, for which I know it
to be superior to any other mode of heating ;
and the following mode of growing pines I give
verbatim, as it appeared in print : —

" On the Culture of the Pine Apple, in a
Letter to the Secretary of the Horticultural
Society, by Mr. Alexander Stewart, Gardener to
Sir Robert Preston, Bart, at Valleyfield, near
Culross, Perthshire ; read Dec. 2nd, 1823.

" The nature of the pine apple is by no means
so well understood in Scotland as in England ;
the plants are kept in too dry an atmosphere
generally, and not allowed sufficient heat and
moisture in the summer season. Early in 18205

DESCRIPTION OP HOTHOUSES. 135

Mr. Stewart felt very desirous to grow pines
without the aid of tan, and with more steam
than he had hitherto been able to do. He there-
fore got a pit, in which he built two flues, and
supported over them, on brick props, a flooring
of pavement, covered with a layer of gravel and
sand on which to place the pots ; at the sides
were openings, to admit the heated air from
below, to warm the atmosphere of the plants ;
the upper level of the platform, on which the
plants stand, is nearly on a level with the exter-
nal surface. The pots of plants are set on the
sand, so that when moisture is added either to
it or to the plants, it causes a fine gentle steam
to arise through the whole of the pit, which can
be regulated at pleasure, by adding more or less
fire, according to the season or other circum-
stances." After nearly three year's experiences
Mr. Stewart is " fully convinced" that tan is
quite unnecessary, not only as a source of bottom
heat, but even for rooting the crowns and suck-
ers. " The temperature kept during the spring
and summer is from eighty to one hundred de-
grees through the day, and as low as from sixty-

136 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

five to sixty degrees during the night: in autumn
or winter it is as low as fifty- five or fifty degrees."
He has no hesitation in stating that, when coals
are moderate in price, it is the cheapest plan he
has seen adopted ; and he sends the particulars
to the Horticultural Society, <f in hopes that they
may assist in establishing Mr. Knight's views on
the subject of cultivating the pine apple."

Another plan recommended by some for a
pinery, is to have the whole roof formed of
glass-work; and instead of extending length-
ways east and west, as described in the first
plan, it is made to extend lengthways from
south to north, with the top, of a ridge-form,
sloping equally on both sides, east and west ;
the walls may be raised of an equal height all
round for fixing the glass-work upon, varying
from one foot and a half to three feet, and the
upright sashes along the sides, from two to three
feet or more in height, according to the height
of the wall, and to be made to slide or swing
open; the sloping top-glasses, reaching from
the top of the uprights on both sides, to meet
in the centre of the roof, and the sashes made

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 137

to slide upon the rafters and frame-work, the
same as in the former south -fronting hot-house ;
both ends may be also formed of glass-work,
which makes the structure look more uni-
form, or if preferred, the north end may be
made of brick-work ; in the latter case, the fire-
place may be made there, and covered in, but
the forming of fire-places for a house built after
this plan, the situation, and circumstances, must
guide the judgment : the bark-pit to be extended
along the centre of the house, with the flues or
pipes along the inside of the walls, or if the
house is of sufficient width, two pits can be
made, and the flue or pipe run between the pits.
Some approve of this form of pinery in prefer-
ence to the first-named, contending, that it re-
ceives more effectual benefit from the sun ; but
in this opinion I do not altogether agree, as I
never could perceive that it had that effect, neither
do I consider that it comprises any other parti-
cular advantage to cause it to be preferred to a
hothouse facing the south; and in winter I should
say, on the contrary, as the sun at that season
has less effect within, than when the sloping

138 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

glass roof is directly facing the south, or as
nearly so as circumstances will permit ; neverthe-
less, there are situations where a double glass-
roofed hothouse may be erected, and not con-
venient or desirable to build one facing the
south, in such cases it is by no means to be
rejected.

Some pineries are built of a circular form,
with a wall all round, two or three feet high,
with upright sashes and sloping roofs, in the
same proportion as described in the last plan,
having the flues for fire-heat, or pipes for water,
or steam heat, carried round the inside walls,
with a circular pit, or two semi- circular pits, if
the house be large enough, with a walk round
between the pits and the outside walls.

However much persons' taste or their ideas
may differ, as to the form of the hothouse to be
constructed, I would strongly recommend them
them to be raised only of a moderate height for
pines, as the internal heat will have much better
effects, and the plants will grow much stronger
than when the glasses are lofty ; the latter often
makes the plants weak, with long leaves, leaving

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 139

the bottoms slender, in which case the fruit
cannot be expected to arrive to that per-
fection and size, as when the plants are strong
and robust ; therefore a house about five or six
feet high in front, by ten or twelve behind,
generally proves more successful for pines, than
when they are built much higher.

When convenient, the building of hothouses
should be commenced in the spring, or suffi-
ciently early in the summer, to have them com-
pleted early in the autumn, that they may be
thoroughly dry, well painted, and in good condi-
tion to receive the pines.

Having given the foregoing directions for the
formation of hothouses for pines, of a superior
class, I will now furnish directions for the con-
struction of pits, in which pines are grown in
great perfection.

The pits, if possible, should be erected in
a sheltered situation, lengthways from east
to west, five or six feet wide or more, the length
depending on the quantity of pines intended
to be grown, the walls all round the pit to be of
solid brick work, raised five or six feet at the

140 DESCRIPTION QF HOTHOUSES.

back, and three or four in front, with both
ends corresponding with the back, and front
walls; having a frame- work of wood along the
top of the walls for the lights to fit closely upon,
with rafters fixed from back to front of the
pit, the same distance apart as the width of the
glass light, for the latter to rest and slide upon,
and which are generally from three to four feet
wide, the light well glazed and thoroughly water-
tight ; the pit should not be sunk much, and if
the bottom is naturally wet, it ought not to be
sunk at all, but the walls raised the height
before mentioned above the surface ; in this
method of growing pines, I must strongly
recommend hot water or steam heating in
preference to fire heat, the first for choice,
although I have seen the most brilliant success
attend the steam. The pipes may be carried
all round the pit, if there be sufficient space
between the bark in front, and the glass, if
not, have the pipes behind only, always allow-
ing a proper space below, for the bark bed,
which should be about three feet or three feet
and-a-half deep.

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 141

But when it is intended to grow pines to
maturity by this practice, the pits may be made
much wider and deeper than those above
described ; and where the spot selected for the
pits is of a dry nature, the pits may be sunk
more in proportion, to give room for the larger
growth of the pines, between the bark bed and
the glasses, and when the pits are thus formed
for fruiting the pines, there can be no difficulty
in carrying the pipes all round the pit.

By this method of growing pines in pits,
large quantities may be produced with greater
safety and with much less expense and trouble
than many may imagine, and indeed where the
practice has not been witnessed, it would be
scarcely possible to form an idea, or at least
to become reconciled, that it is attended with
triumphant success ; but be it recollected, that
this is for the growth of pines alone, and there-
fore ought not to do away in large establishments
with the principal hothouse pinery, as it serves
so many other useful purposes, as well as being
an appendage of no mean consideration, where
forcing is carried on extensively.

142 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES.

I need only remark further on this subject,
that where pits are intended for pines, they
may be made of such dimensions that will suit
them in their various stages of growth ; but I
am still of opinion that a moderate bottom heat
is highly essential for the growth of pines,
indeed the bark bed heat alone, in pits of this
description, is sufficient, except in very severe
weather for the young plants, or to strike the
suckers and crowns in, the proper seasons and
management of which will be hereafter de-
scribed.

Hotbeds made of dung, are sometimes for
convenience substituted for bark beds, for
striking the suckers and crowns, with common
deep garden frames and lights, and may con-
tinue therein two or three months, or occa-
sionally through the winter, where there is not
a more proper place ready to receive them ;
the beds should be made in the usual form of
dung hot-beds, three or four feet deep with the
frames placed thereon, and in about eight or
ten days, or when the violent heat has abated,
place on the top of the dung within the frame

DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 143

some tan, new or old will do, about eight inches
thick for plunging the pots in ; and when the
heat is greatly reduced, if the plants are in-
tended to remain for some time, strong linings
of hot dung must be applied, and if to continue
through the winter, it must be renewed once in
three or four weeks, as occasion requires ; but
if the heat of the bed should so decline that'
the linings will not sufficiently revive it, pre-
pare a new bed, and when ready, remove the
plants thereto as expeditiously as possible, re-
plunge them, and treat this bed as directed for
the former, with the addition in winter of
defending the outside linings with straw or
stable litter, to counteract the severity of the
frost, the effects of heavy falls of snow, &c.
I may also here remark, that lining the outside
of the bricked pits with light dry litter during
the winter seasons, has a most beneficial effect,
by greatly assisting to repel the severity of the
weather; indeed, at all seasons it is useful
rather than otherwise, and to more effectually
preserve the internal heat, covering the glasses
of the pits or frames every night in sharp frosty

144 DESCRIPTION OF SOILS.

weather, will be found beneficial, or continued
the whole day when very rigorous, with straw or
garden matts, or matts placed over the straw
may be necessary, but do not keep the plants
from the light longer than compelled by the
weather; let it be understood, that the last
method of growing pines while young, on dung
hotbeds; is only recommended when it may
happen that there is not convenience in the
main pinery, succession house, or the bark bed
pits.

DESCRIPTION OF SOILS.

Par. 2. The soil which is most favourable for
pines should be principally of a light, rich, loamy
nature, of one third maiden, or fresh from a
common or field, if with the turf on, the better ;
one- third of rich garden mould, and one-third of
rotten dung ; this being thoroughly turned over,
and rotted, and well mixed, should be placed in
a dry shed, and before used ought to be sifted to
free it from all lumps, stones, &c., and is much
better for potting than in a wet state ; but it
should in no case be taken under cover until it

DESCRIPTION OF SOILS. 145

is thoroughly rotten and fit for use, as the sun,
air, rain, &c., is of great benefit to it while in
a state of pulverization and decomposition, and
by preparing the compost annually, it will
always be ready for use; but in case there may
be a want of this previously prepared, some rich
mellow garden mould, some dry rotten dung,
with some light loam taken from near the sur-
face, being well mixed together, and sifted or
screened, may suffice for immediate use ; and if
the soil appears too strong, add a small portion
of light sandy opening mould, or some sea-sand
or drift.

METHOD OF RAISING PINE PLANTS.

Par. 3. — Pines are propagated principally from
suckers growing out of the stems of the fruiting
plants, both from the lower part, and also from
some which will produce them near the apple,
or other parts of the stalk ; likewise the crowns
from the top of the ripe fruit, when they can be
preserved when sent to table, will make fine
strong plants, which should be taken from the
fruit with a gentle twist. The suckers may be

146 METHOD OF RAISING

allowed to remain on the stems of the old plants
until the fruit is ripe and removed, and for two
or three weeks after to give them strength, un-
less any of them are grown very strong, in
which case they should be removed, to prevent
them from impoverishing the fruit, and prevent
it swelling to the size it otherwise would.
Although the suckers and crowns from the old
fruiting plants are to be preferred, the plants
may sometimes be raised, if required, from the
succession pines, when they happen to run to
fruit prior to their proper growth. It will,
therefore, be necessary to procure a sufficient
quantity of suckers and crowns during their
fruiting season, to keep up a regular succession
for fruiting annually, as the old plants that do
not decay, are not to be preferred for fruiting
generally ; and when they are preserved, a strong
sucker only, is allowed to remain on the old
plant, which will sometimes grow large, and
fruit the following year.

After the crowns and suckers have been detach-
ed from the fruit and stems, as before described,
should they be in a very soft succulent state,

PINE PLANTS. 147

they may be laid open in the hothouse for six
or eight days, or more, to harden them before
being planted ; and although destitute of roots,
they, when planted and plunged in the bark
bed, will soon form roots and grow. I may here
observe, that the crowns and suckers may be
preserved in summer, or in the autumn, or at
any season when the fruit is ripe, or the suckers
is in a fit state to be removed ; and I should
recommend to get as many crowns returned as
can be obtained, as they generally grow stocky,
strong, and produce fine fruit ; and also the
largest and strongest suckers should be selected ;
and when the suckers on the lower part of the
stem are allowed to remain after the fruit is
gathered, as before directed, for the purpose of
gaining strength, some of the old leaves may be
cut or pulled off the stem, to give the suckers
room to swell, but at all times, when the suckers
appear about eight or ten inches long or more,
particularly when they appear brownish at the
bottom, with small tuberances, from which the
roots are emitted, they are in a fit and proper
state to be removed for planting ; being careful

H 2

148 METHOD OF RAISING

to remove them from the old stem without
breaking or bruising, by placing the hand near
the lower part of the sucker, and loosen and
slip them off clean. When they appear dry and
hard at the bottom, they may be immediately
planted, first cutting the ragged part at the
bottom smooth, and remove some of the under
leaves by cutting or pulling them off, indeed, the
future progres of the plants much depends upon
the suckers and crowns being properly prepared
for planting.

The sizes of pots usually used for planting
the crowns and suckers in, are forty-eights and
thirty -twos, the forty-eights for the small, and
thirty-twos for the larger ; the pots being
filled with the proper mould, (as described under
the head of soils,) they should be planted shal-
low in the earth, only sufficient to make them
fast in an upright position, then give them a
light watering, and plunge them in the bark
bed, which should be of a moderate heat ; and if
no other is ready, they may be placed in the
main pinery, the pots plunged close together,
and fill up all the cavities between them with

PINE PLANTS. 149

the bark ; by this treatment the plants will
strike root in about ten days or a fortnight, they
will then require a moderate watering, both to
the earth, and over the plants, and when they
begin to grow, and are well rooted, they will
require water twice a week in hot weather; and
if not in the main pinery, air should be admitted
at about the same proportion as is directed to
be there kept.

It may happen, that there may not be room or
convenience at the time of planting the suckers,
&c., in the principal pinery, the succession
house, (if any) or a regular bark pit ; in that case
a dung hot-bed may be made for the purpose,
for a one-light frame or more, if required, which
should be prepared ten days or a fortnight
before it is wanted, in order that the strong
rank heat may subside before the pots are
introduced, the top of the bed being then
levelled, put on about eight or ten inches of
bark, and plunge the pots therein two or there
days after, when if the bed was made about
three feet deep of the dung, that will generally
be about the time it may be used ; but in all

150 METHOD OF RAISING

cases it will be necessary to examine the heat of
the bed, and be cautious not to plunge the pots
while it is too violent; and in case the heat
should increase to too great a degree, it will be
necessary to draw up the pots half-way, or raise
them sufficiently to prevent the plants from
burning.

If the plants are raised in a bark-bed pit, or
the principal pinery, or succession house, they
may there remain ; but it will be necessary occa-
sionally, when the heat declines, to fork up the
tan, or when the heat is greatly reduced, a
small quantity of new bark may be added, and
mixed with the old, and then plunge the pots
again immediately. If the heat in the dung hot
bed should decline before convenient to remove
the plants, it can be revived by linings of fresh
hot dung along the sides, but in six weeks or
two months they will be in a fit state to remove
in the same pots to the succession house or
bark-bed pits, but where there is not this ac-
commodation, they may be removed to the bark-
bed of the main pinery. About October or
November is the usual time for completing this

PINE PLANTS. 151

work, that they may remain where placed
through the winter ; or if not convenient, to place
them either in the main pinery, succession house,
or bark pits, a new hot bed may be made to
receive them if thought necessary ; but the heat
of the old or new hot beds should always be
kept up as long as possible by additional linings,
and in cold weather, warm litter should be
applied round the sides of the frames, and the
glasses covered by night, and in frosty weather
they should be covered with litter or rnatts,
and in very severe weather both may be neces-
sary, the mats being placed outside to fasten
down the litter ; nevertheless, although I have
given these instructions relative to the manage-
ment of the pine plants in the hot beds, it is by
far more preferable, both for convenience and
safety, to remove them for the winter into the
pinery or bark pits.

GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES.

Par. 4. — After giving plain yet sufficiently ela-
borate directions for raising the plants, it will

152 GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES.

now become necessary to furnish instructions for
their future and general cultivation.

If the plants are raised at home, as directed
in the last paragraph, I need not add any thing
more on the subject of removal, but where pine
plants are brought from a distance, it will be
highly requisite that great care and attention
should be paid to their removal ; and the season
most proper, for the principal furnishing the
pinery, being early in the autumn, (September
or October is the most preferable, but not later
than November,) will be the most desirable time
to remove them ; but this will depend on circum-
stances; for if not convenient in the autumn,
they may be removed in the spring, about the
end of March, or beginning of April, or almost
at any time, but these are the two principal
seasons.

When removing pine plants a considerable
distance, which are large, the leaves should be
gently drawn together and tied, and then placed
upright in a cart or waggon (a spring van is best)
with plenty of soft straw or litter, which should
be made firm as possible between the pots to

GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES. 153

keep them steady and the pots from breaking,
and when they are sent by carriers or stage
waggons, it will be necessary to pack them in
baskets, if large plants, three or four in a large
basket, or separately in a small one, and small
plants may be packed in large baskets close
together, as many as the basket will hold, so
that the pots are kept apart by the litter, to pre-
vent their breaking ; but in all cases in cold
weather the plants should be protected by cover-
ing ; if in an open cart or waggon without a tilt,
a temporary tilt, may be formed over the plants,
and covered with mats or a rick-cloth, or any
other thing that will protect them from the cold.
When sent in baskets, sticks should be placed
round the edges, upright, and drawn together
at the top, and tied, of sufficient height not to
touch the plants, and then covered securely
round with garden mats. Having given the
foregoing directions for the removal of the plants
their general management in the hothouse, will
necessarily follow, and which I intend (fearless
of all the new and various crotchets) to confine
myself to one safe, tried, and straightforward

154 GENERAL CULTURE OF PIKES,

method, in order that the reader may not be con-
fused with various methods under this head.
The autumn being the season for preparing the
pinery for the plants, or at least the time when
the most full and necessary directions are re-
quired, I will commence with instructions ac-
cordingly.

The pits should now be furnished with new
tan, and some of the best of the old may be
screened and mixed among the new, raising
it several inches above the top of the pit to
allow for settling ; and when it has become of
a proper moderate heat, both in the principal
pinery and the succession house, the pots should
be plunged in the bark, placing the largest
behind, and the smallest in front ; and when
there is no succession house, or other conve-
nience, the small plants may be placed in front
of the large fruiting plants in the main or
fruiting pinery, or at one end, placing the suc-
cession plants next the fruiting, and the smaller
or next in succession near the end, or in large
pineries where there are two pits, the largest
behind should be for the fruiting plants, and the

GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES 155

smaller in front may be allotted for the succes-
sion and small plants.

At the same time, where there are separate
houses, it is more convenient, and generally
more successful, for by having the succession
and small plants in a separate house or in other
bark pits, a more general moderate heat may
be kept therein, than sometimes is required for
the iruiting pines in winter, and more particu-
larly towards spring, when it is necessary to
forward the fruiting; moreover, the main stove
will not require to be so much crowded, and
the strong heat which is requisite for the
fruiting plants, will sometimes cause the suc-
cession plants to fruit in that early state, before
they have size or strength sufficient to be of
any valuable size; and also the small plants will
occasionally run to fruit through the same cause,
without being of any use, and those which do
not, are frequently also injured ; and when the
regular succession is thus injured, it will cause
great disappointment for the following two
years : although I have given these hints, to
prevent the chance of disappointment where it

156 GENERAL CULTUKE OF PINES.

can be avoided, yet it often happens that
the whole will succeed together in the same
house.

By the foregoing practice, the plants will
always be at three different stages of growth ;
first, the two years old or fruiting pines ; next
in succession, the one year old plants ; and
thirdly, the young plants just raised, by which
method a regular annual supply will be con-
tinually kept.

When it is convenient, it is a desirable plan,
before removing the plants to where they are to
remain, to let the bark beds settle a little and
ferment, and the glasses kept close to draw up
the heat ,• and when at a proper temperature,
with the assistance of a short, narrow, one-
handed fork, open the bark, and plunge the
pots as before directed ; but be careful should
the heat become too powerful, to raise the pots
up one-third or half way, to prevent the roots
from burning, and replace them again up to the
rim when the excessive heat has subsided ; and
if it be necessary to plunge the plants while
the heat is too strong, they may at first be

ORDER OF FRUITING. 157

plunged only one-third or half-way up the pots,
and lower them after as before stated. When
the bark beds are thus furnished with the plants,
the house should be shut close, and in cold
weather add a moderate fire heat in the evening,
to more effectually warm the interior.

AT FULL GROWTH, ORDER OF FRUITING, &C.

Par. 5. — The two years old pines generally
attain their full growth, and the fruit come to
perfection from June till October. The fruit
cannot easily ripen without being detected by the
powerful scent it produces in the house, and
may be then observed, by its changing colour,
most sorts turning yellow, and they should be
cut as soon as they appear ripe, otherwise they
will be become too mellow, and lose much of
that rich flavour so peculiar to this fruit. I
have above stated, that they generally ripen
from June till October, but the principal part
ripen in July and August, and some will occa-
sionally ripen in the winter and spring.

153 POTS THE PROPER SIZES*

POTS THE PROPER SIZES.

PAR. 6. — Pines being both raised, and grown
to maturity in pots, it will be proper to give
directions relative to them, and the names of
sizes as they may be obtained in casts from the
potteries. The smallest size generally used for
planting the suckers and crowns in, are called
forty-eights, meaning forty-eight to the cast.
The next size for the first shifting is thirty-twos,
being thirty-two to the cast; the plants being fit
to shift out of the first into this size in a few
months ; the early or strong grown ones may be
shifted the same season, or the whole in the fol-
lowing spring. The next size are called twenty -
fours, or twenty-four to the cast ; this is the
proper size to shift them into until the next
shifting season ; but sometimes, when the plants
are not over large, they are allowed to remain in
this size for fruiting. The next and largest size,
generally used for finally shifting the pines, is
called sixteens, being sixteen to the cast. The
seasons and ways of shifting I intend to give
more fully in another paragraph. It is highly

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES. 159

necessary that the pots should be sound and well
burnt, otherwise they are very apt to rot and
tumble to pieces ; indeed, there is a very great
difference in the quality of pots, but in the neigh-
bourhood of London, very excellent red pots
may be obtained at half-a-crown or three shillings
per cast, the price per cast being the same for
all sizes.

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES, WITH OBSER-
VATIONS RELATIVE TO THEIR NATURE AND
CULTURE.

Par. 7. — It would seem, that the different va-
rieties of pines have greatly increased in number
within the last few years, but it is doubtful
whether many of those are not renamed, with a
view which some have of gleaning a little extra
notoriety in the horticultural kingdom, by be-
coming the supposed original propagator or
introducer of a new fruit ; indeed, the system
has become so prevalent, that it has caused
considerable confusion in the naming of many
kinds of fruits. I shall therefore proceed to
furnish a plain original list of names, with their

160 DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES.

forms, colours, and nature of growth, and also
botanically, a list as now described by modern
horticulturalists.

Oval, or Queen Pine Apple
Conical Pine
Black Antigua Pine

''Brown leaved Sugar-loaf Pine, or Pyramidal
Green-leaved, purple-striped, smooth-edged ditto.
Late Mountserrat Pine
King-Pine, smooth green leaves, large fruit
Silver-striped leaved pine, the fruit also variegated.
Gold-striped leaved Pine, (scarce)
Providence Pine
Havannah Pine
Domingo Pine
Barbadoes Pine
Bog warp Pine
Shining smooth leaved Pine
Green-leaved, purple-striped, smooth-edged

In addition to the above may be added, al-
though not common, the white flesh pine, the
re4 flesh pine, and the green flesh pine, the
other varieties being, when ripe, of a pale yellow,
green yellow, golden yellow, and olive-coloured.

I will now give a list as known in the botanical

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES.

161

world, their time of introduction, and from what
countries they came.

BROMELIA.

PINE APPLE.

HEXANDRIA, MONOGYNIA.

Introduced.

1 Ananas

Common

S. America

1690

2 Semiserrata

Semiserate

3 Lucida

Shining-leaved

4 Lingulata

Tongue-leaved

1759

5 Bracteata

Red-bracted

Jamaica

1785

6 Fastuosa

Noble

S. America

1815

7 Melanantha

Black-floured

Trinidad

1823

8 Nudicaulis

Naked-stalked

Pyramidalis

S. America

9 Hookeri

Hooker's

Nudicaulis

Trinidad

1822

10 Sessiliflora

Sessile-flowered

S. America

1824

11 Acanga

Recurved

12 Sylvestris

Wild

1820

13 Karatas

Upright-leaved

W. Indies

1739

14 Humilis

Dwarf

1789

15 Pallida

Pale

S. America

1810

16 Pinguin

Broad-leaved

W. Indies

1699

17 Chrysantha

Yellow-flowered

S. America

1820

18 Exudans

Clammy

1816

19 Paniculigera

Panicled

W. Indies

1822

162 METHOD OF MAKING

METHOD OF MAKING THE BARK BED ; ITS GENE-
RAL MANAGEMENT AND UTILITY.

Par. 8. — Tan or bark may be obtained at any
season of the year from the tanners, it being the
bark of the oak cut or ground small for the purpose
of tanning hides, and after its properties for that
purpose are exhausted, it is thrown from the tan
vats, and then becomes a most useful article for
the hothouse ; but always select that which is the
most fresh, or at least such as has not been too
long out Of the vats to have lost its strength and
fermenting qualities, and make choice of the
moderately-large cut or middling, in preference
to the very small bark, which decays sooner
than the larger cut tan, and likewise sooner
becomes earthy, or in a dungy state.

In the neighbourhood of London, particularly
in the borough of Southwark, any quantity may
be obtained, there being many large tanneries.
The price generally charged for the bark, is
about five shillings for forty bushels, and so on
in proportion, according to the size of your cart
or waggon, or quantity required ; and when ob-

THE BARK BED, &C. 163

tained, if it is very fresh and of a raw nature,
place it in a heap for a week or more, to cause it
to ferment and heat ; and if very wet, then
spread it out for a few days in fine weather to
dry ; but when obtained in a proper state, being
only moderately moist, it may be conveyed direct
to the hothouse, and placed into the pit, as soon
as it may be wanted for making the bark bed.
A tanner's fork is the most proper tool for the
purpose of shifting the bark from place to place,
with four or five times or more ; but a common
dung fork, with the tines near together, will be a
good substitute, when the former is not at hand.
The tan when carried to thes pit, should be
forked up well and regular, to form the bed,
which should be raised a few inches above the
top of the pit, to allow for settling. It will then
ferment, and will be at a proper heat generally
in about a week or ten days to receive the pine
plants ; but sometimes the heat will then be too
powerful, which must be carefully attended to.
This may be ascertained by running sticks some
distance down into the bed, and draw them up
daily, and feel the ends ; and when the heat has

164 SORTS OF FUEL FOR FIRE HEAT.

become moderate, the pots should be plunged
therein; or should occasion require the intro-
duction of the plants before the violent heat has
sufficiently subsided, they may be plunged only
a little or half way, according to the temperature
of the bed, and plunged after to the rims, when
the heat is proper.

SORTS OF FUEL FOR FIRE HEAT.

Par. 9. — The different sorts of fuel will greatly
depend on the situation, but when convenient,
coals and coal cinders, or coke, are to be pre-
ferred, making the most regular and durable
fires, requiring less trouble in the management,
and the house kept in a steady and proper degree
of heat, with less attention than most other sorts
of fuel require ; but in those places where the
above are scarce, wood, peat, &c. may be sub-
stituted. Also at the large tanners they make
bark peat from the waste of old tan, which may
be used with tolerable good effect.

REGULATION OF HEAT, THERMOMETER, &C.

Par. 10. — As the regulation of heat is one of

REGULATION OF HEAT, &C. 165

the most essential points in forcing, a good ther-
mometer is necessary in the pinery and all other
forcing houses, that the heat may be properly
ascertained, and without which a proper standard
degree, cannot be so conveniently maintained.
This should be hung up in the centre of the
place, with the back towards the sun, in an up-
right position, that the spirit in the tube may be
regulated only by the internal heat in the place,
and the heat kept as regular as possible during
the various forcing months, in such advances as
will be directed.

In the month of January, the thermometer
requires the greatest nicety in its arrangement
in every description of glass house ; indeed, if
properly understood, it will greatly serve as a
guide to all seasons of the year. As the days
lengthen, the pinery will require a higher tem-
perature, from 50 to 55 degrees, and before the
end of the month to 60, advancing the tempera-
ture in proportion as the spring advances, until
it reaches 80, about May ; and for the main
fruiting pinery, 85 degrees, or rather higher,

166 REGULATION OF HEAT, &C.

may be then kept as a standard heat, during the
time of ripening.

In January, if not done before, the vinery
should be put in motion for early grapes in June,
with a gentle heat at first, from about 45 to 50
degrees, (which is better than being too warm
at first,) increasing it in about a week 5 degrees,
and in about another week to 55 or 60, and be-
fore the end of the month to 65, and the tempe-
rature may then be kept up as high as is requisite
for the pine stove. Also, other fruit houses should
be now made active, beginning with a low tem-
gerature, about 40, and not more than 47 or
50 during the month of January, nor yet much
higher until the fruit is set, 60 being the stan-
dard heat allowed, and ought not at any time to
exceed 65 ; this may be taken as a guide to
most other fruit tree forcing.

Although rather foreign to this work, I may
be permitted to remark, that the greenhouse
will at this season require the greatest atten-
tion, and the nicest management, particularly
as regards the heating thereof, much mischief
being frequently done to the plants by making

BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT. 167

the house too hot. The temperature during
the month of January should be kept as low as
about 33 or 35 degrees; generally, the aid of
artificial heat is required, only to be sufficient to
keep out the frost at any time.

The management of conservatories is widely
different to that of the greenhouse ; indeed, it
would be almost presumption to attempt to lay
down any fixed rule for heating them; their
situations and aspects, the time of furnishing,
and nature of the plants with which they are
furnished, being so diversified, that it must be
left to the judgment of those who have the care
of them.

OF BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT.

Par. 11. From October till May the pinery
will. require the assistance of fire-heat, as well
as the constant heat from the bark bed. When
the weather becomes cold, frosty, or foggy, in
the autumn, fires should be made every evening
about sunset, and also of cold mornings ; the
evening fires should be continued a sufficient
time to -heat the flues to such an eligible degree

168 BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT.

of warmth, that will keep the house in a proper
temperature until morning : this will be more
especially necessary in the fruiting- house, to
forward the plants for fruiting ; but fire-heat is
also necessary, as the weather may require, in
the succession departments; also in hard, frosty,
and severe cutting weather, the house will re-
quire the assistance of fire-heat all day ; but be
sure not to heat the house immoderately, to force
pines to an improper growth, but keep the heat
as regular as possible.

About January and February the heat may
be triflingly increased in the fruiting-house, to
forward plants for fruiting, as at this season the
pines generally begin to show and set their
fruit, at which time they require a lively bottom
heat, and a more general (but mark} yet mode-
rate degree of fire-heat.

The fires may be kept supported till eight,
nine, or ten o'clock at night, during the winter,
and in severe weather cover the last fire over
with ashes, that it may continue to cause a mo-
derate heat the greater part of the night, and
also in severe weather the fires should 1be at-

AIR AND WATER. 169

tended to early in the morning; but in mild
weather, and when the interior of the house is
sufficiently warm, the morning fires may he dis-
pensed with.

GIVING AIR AND WATER AT DIFFERENT SEA-
SONS.

Par. 12. — During the winter season very mo-
derate admissions of air will only be necessary,
to be increased as the spring and warm weather
advances, and so on in proportion throughout
the year ; but this must be regulated according
to the fineness of the weather at all seasons;
in the winter it should be admitted on warm
sunny days, in the warmest part thereof, by
opening the glasses an inch or two or more, for
an hour or two, more or less as the weather suits ;
or occasionally as the heat of the house may
require.

The pines likewise require very moderate
watering in winter, particularly in damp wea-
ther ; in the depth of winter, only once in a fort-
night or three weeks, when the earth appears
dry, and then only enough to keep it in a very

170 HOT WATER AND STEAM.

moderately moist state, and at this season the
water should be given to the earth only ; but as
the spring advances, and warm weather succeeds,
the waterings should succeed in proportion ; at
all times keep the plants free from decayed
leaves.

It is also very desirable to keep the water in
the hothouse, or to have it about the same
warmth as the temperature of the pinery.

HOT WATER AND STEAM, THE GENERAL USES
THEREOF IN FORCING, WITH EXPLANATORY
REMARKS.

Par. 13. — The vast scientific improvements
which of late years have so wonderfully developed
themselves, none stands forth more prominent
than those produced by fire and water.

When we look at the power of steam, which
is produced from water and caused by the heat
of fire, and view the stupendous undertakings
now in progress, through the skill and appa-
rently ardent desire of scientific men to vie with
each other, must hand the nineteenth century
down to posterity as a gem of science unparal-

HOT WATER AND STEAM. 171

leled in the history of the world ; neither is the
spirit of competition greater among men of sci-
ence, than the will of the public is ready, not
only to afford their meed of praise, but in almost
all apparently practicable undertakings, for the
convenience and comfort of the public, gene-
rously have they responded with the means of
carrying those improvements into effect.

Steam as regards hothouse forcing, has for
some years been attended with the most brilliant
results, especially as regards pine growing, but
this is doomed to give way to that which pro-
duced it, namely, hot water, which is now ad-
mitted by all whose opinion is worth receiving,
to be superior to all other modes of heating.

At first I entertained doubts about the hot
water having the proper effect in assisting to
ripen fruit equal to the fire-heat of a flue, until
from study on the evaporations of artificial as
well as natural atmospheres, has led me to the
conclusion that hot water heating for every de-
partment of hothouse forcing, must be, with
proper management, attended with unqualified
success.

I 2

172 HOT WATER AND STEAM.

The constitution of the atmosphere has a con-
siderable influence on the growth of plants, and
more particularly its relation to moisture. The
variable state of the moisture in the air, was not
registered with any degree of accuracy, until
within these few years, which improvement may
be attributed chiefly to instruments which have
been invented for the purpose ; but^ even now,
none of them are so perfect as it would be de-
sirable to render them.

When air is cooled below a certain degree, it
deposits a portion of the moisture it contains, in
the form of dew, and when air deposits dew, it
is saturated with moisture, therefore, air always
contains that quantity of moisture which would
saturate the same quantity of air when its tem-
perature is reduced down to the point at which
it deposits dew.

The ordinary state of the atmosphere, as
respects moisture in this country, is extremely
variable ; but the mean result of many obser-
vations of the thermometer, and also the dew
point, shows that the temperature of deposition
and the actual temperature follow, each other in

HOT WATER AND STEAM. 173

a regular manner. The difference between the
actual temperature and that of the dew point, is
least in January, and increases gradually till
June, when it again declines to its winter state.

Having studied with considerable care and
attention the effects of the atmospheric air in
all its relations to vegetation,, it has brought me
to the conclusion, that the internal air of a
forcing house is less liable to suffer by hot watei
heat ; being almost free from any noxious efflu-
via which may arise from other heating ; more-
over it is a dry heat, which is essential to the
ripening of fruit, and yet when necessary, a fine
dew may at any time be raised in the house by
watering over the pipes when heated.

Although I have spoken thus much in praise
of hot water heating, let me not be understood
by so doing, to underrate the heating by flues,
which has stood the test, and proved so emi-
nently successful for generations past ; but de-
cidedly I am of opinion, that for general forcing,
hot water is the most convenient, safe, and eco-
nomical mode of heating extant ; added to which,
it is with very little trouble, and in a very short

174 HOT WATER AND STEAM,

time, made either powerful or weak as the tempe-
rature of the house may require.

The manner the flues have been directed to
be erected in the different hothouses, may serve
greatly as a guide for placing the pipes for hot
water heating, they should be placed along
such parts of the house, (particularly along
next the front classes,) where the greatest heat
is required to resist vigorous frost and severe
cold weather ; and if a sufficient quantity of
pipe be allowed, the temperature may be raised
to any necessary height required at any season
of the year. I scarcely need remark, that
water will always find its level, therefore, when
a pipe with returns is placed in the house, the
return or returns can be carried, either one over
the other from the same, or run. parallel, side
by side horizontally, and be thus conveyed
round the house.

The fire-place for the boiler may be con-
structed at one end, with one pipe fixed in the
boiler, which will act as a funnel to the whole of
the pipe, with its returns, and cause the pipes
to be continually charged, by having the boiler

HOT WATER AND STEAM. 175

raised a sufficient height above the pipes, to
keep them constantly supplied ; which, by the
heat of the fire, causing the water to keep on
the move, will gradually force through all the
pipes, and cause the last pipe, or further end of
the return, which is also fixed into the boiler,
as a funnel to convey the water back into the
boiler.

This simple (and I may add elegant) mode
of heating with hot water, when compared to
to flues, is so easy to manage, the trouble so
light, and the expense attending it being in-
finitely less than any other method, will, no
doubt, eventually supersede every other mode
of heating.

When the hothouse is very long, with divisions*,
(the same as directed for heating by flues,) it may
be requisite to have more fire-places and boilers,
which may be done at convenient distances at
the back.

When the boiler is once filled, and like-
wise, all the pipes thereto attached, (they,
being below the top of the boiler,) the principal
trouble will be to attend to the fire, and occa-
sionally fill up the boiler. Should the tempe-

176 HOT WATER AND STEAM.

rature of the house be too high, the damper
or plate of iron, which is formed in the construc-
tion of the fire-place, can be put on to reduce
the heat, and be removed again when required.

The size of the pipes may vary according to
taste, but to be uniform, the size of the house
ought in some measure to be taken into conside-
ration ; still, in all cases where the pipes are
large, the returns will not require to be so
many, as two may do instead of three or four,
but those of a moderate size, according to the
extent of the house, will, while they answer
every purpose, appear most in unison. But this
part will require the judgment to be exercised, of
those who have the superintendance.

There are, as a matter of course, some
splashes of science sent forth by the compe-
titors of hot water heating, each recommending
his apparatus, mode of contrivance, fixing,
&c., as the best ; and while such emulation is
afloat, and hot water heating for these purposes
may be considered almost in its infancy ; I
think it would be wrong to speak discouraging
of either, as sometimes the most simple thing
to appearance turns out the best; and what is

HOT WATER AND STEAM. 177

still more to be desired, frequently leads to
farther improvements; at the same time, although
it can be fixed by any one, who has a knowledge
of such business, yet there is a great difference
in the abilities of tradesmen, this must be ad-
mitted, even in setting a copper, or forming any
other fire-place out of the common way ; there-
fore, those persons who may wish to excel
in this particular branch, connected with garden-
ing architecture, must make it their study
before they will become celebrated.

A thing may appear easy when accomplished,
or to see another performing it, yet none but
ignorant men will attempt to underrate another's
science ; those who do, are generally weak, and
finding they cannot excel, endeavour to gloss
over their own stupidity, by striving to dete-
riorate the science of others; and this is fre-
quently done by (what I consider, the most
damning of all human recommendations) faint
praise.

Therefore, entertaining these ideas, I have
confined myself to recommending such methods,
which I know can be depended on, and which

i5

178 RAISING PINES IN HOTBEDS,

will, with proper management, prove successful,
leaving all others, without prejudice, in the hands
of the public, and to future improvements.

RAISING PINES IN HOTBEDS.

Par. 14. — Pine plants may be raised, and for-
warded toa fruiting state in hotbeds made of dung ;
the frames should be deep, and the top lights
well glazed, the beds should be made substantial^
from three to four feet deep, and in a sheltered
situation, (but where they will have the full
command of the sun,) from one, two or more
light frames ; having from eight to twelve inches
of tan on the top of dung, to plunge the pots in ;
the depth must be regulated according to the
size of the pots ; when the heat declines, strong
linings of hot dung should be applied, and
in winter the frames defended with straw litter,
and mats, as described elsewhere ; but as this
practice is more generally resorted to for the
convenience only of raising the young plants,
it does not at all follow that they may be
required to be kept in the hot beds during
the winter. It will be necessary to be careful

BARK BED IN THE PINERY. 179

that the strong heat has subsided, before
plunging the pots ; this will generally be avoided
by making the bed ten or twelve days prior
to plunging the plants, and testing the heat of
the bed by sticks run therein, in the usual
way, the bed should be levelled, and the bark put
upon the dung two or three days before the
plants are plunged to get warm, and when the
plants are plunged, put on the glasses, and
treat them as directed in other bark beds.

MANAGEMENT OF THE BARK BED IN THE
PINERY.

Par. 15. — The importance of bark bed heat in
the pinery has led me to give an exclusive para-
graph on its general management ; and although
part of what is here stated may be found in the -
directions in the foregoing paragraphs, I trust
the present may not be considered tautologous,
having avoided as much as possible repetition.

The new bark beds having been made in the
autumn and managed as before directed, will
generally continue sufficient heat till about
Christmas, when it will require to have the

180 BARK BED IN THE PINEEY.

heat renewed, by taking up the pots, and fork-
ing up the tan to the bottom of the pit, and
if the bed is much reduced by sinking, &c.,
about one-third or fourth of fresh bark should
be added, and forked up with the old.

This work should be performed by opening
a trench in the bed at one end, and carry the
bark from the first trench to the other end,
ready to fill up with, then fork the bed
thoroughly over, mixing the new tan with old,
and directly replunge the pots therein ; this
will revive the declining heat, and cause it
to continue lively for two or three months
longer ; likewise, this attention to the bark^ bed
in mid winter, will greatly assist the plants in
their advancing spring growth, and more par-
ticularly the fruiting plants, which generally
begin to show their fruit buds about January
and February, which may be discovered by the
advancing small crown of leaves; indeed, at
this season, it is very essential to have a lively
bottom heat about the roots, as it will greatly
promote the regular production of the fruit.

In March, or beginning of April, the bark beds

MANAGEMENT OF THE 181

will require another revival after the foregoing
instructions, in order to forward the fruit and
cause it to swell as it arrives to maturity ; the
size of the fruit being one of its chief recom-
mendatory properties, and much depends on the
care, attention, and skill, which the fruiting
department receives during the time the pines
are swelling.

The bark beds for the succession plants will
also require similar treatment to keep them
always in a kindly growing state ; the bottom
heat never should be allowed to become too
much reduced for any continuance, as that
would cause the plants to become stunted, there-
fore a regular lively bottom heat is highly
necessary at those seasons ; and as the young
plants will require shifting in the spring, the
revival of the bark bed may be attended to at
the same time. The beds, after the foregoing
management, will not require further attention
in this way until July or August, unless the
heat should sooner decline, which, through
inferior bark and other causes, it will sometimes
do ; then fork up the bark, and about the

182 BARK BED IN THE PINERY.

beginning of August, the first succession plants
should be finally shifted into the large pots for
fruiting,; then the bark bed should have the
last renewal, with a little fresh tan added and
forked up together about half way down, at this
hot season, will be sufficient, for fear of causing
too great heat to scorch the roots.

But in all renewals of the bark beds, when
any considerable quantity of new tan has been
supplied, or in new made beds, great attention
is requisite to discover any tendency to violent
heat ; and when that appears, immediately draw
up the pots, sufficiently to prevent the roots of
the plants from burning, as the scorching of the
roots frequently proves very injurious, and
sometimes entirely ruins the plants.

It may happen sometimes in winter not to be
convenient when required to renew the beds
with fresh bark ; in that case it is an advisable
plan to plunge the pots two or three inches over
the rims, that in the absence of such renewal of
the beds, the roots of the plants may receive
every possible advantage from the old tan.

It is likewise necessary both at the time of

REVIVAL OF THE BARK-BED. 183

making the new beds in autumn, or of either of
the renewals in winter or spring, to keep up a
tolerable good fire heat until that of the bed
sufficiently rises ; also in the spring shifting, and
the bark bed being renewed, a moderately good
fire heat will greatly assist the plants in taking
fresh root, and which should be kept up until
the heat of the bed rises to the top.

OCCASIONAL REVIVAL OF THE BARK-BED.

If the heat of the bark-bed should have
greatly declined (particularly in the depth of
winter) before it is the usual time, or convenient
for the regular renewal, a quantity of fresh bark
may be added at top, and forked up with the
old, then plunge the pots again directly ; this
system may, if necessary, be repeated again
towards spring, but in the fruiting departmenf,
should the heat decline later in the season, or
during the general fruiting, it may be renewed
without disturbing the fruiting pines ; for when
they are far advanced, the removal of the pots is
apt to check the swelling of the fruit, therefore
take out some of the old tan from between the

184 WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

pots and add new in its place, this will revive
the heat and prove very beneficial.

WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

Par. 17. — During the winter season, very mo-
derate admissions of air should be allowed, and
very little water will be required, particularly
through the months of November, December,
and January, the plants being during that period
not in a state to require it, as they make little or
no progress in their growth ; therefore merely
apply a little water to the earth in the pots, when
it appears dry, probably not more than once in
two or three weeks, as the dry or moist state of
the weather will dictate ; but when the plants
begin to move, towards the end of January, and
in February, or they begin to shew fruit, the
watering will require to be more frequent. The
air should be admitted only on mild days, while
the sun is out, and that in the middle of the day,
from half an hour to an hour or two or more, as
the state of the weather will permit; but shut
the house close when a cold unkind air prevails,
and so be guided on till the spring. Observe

WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 185

also in winter to keep good fires every evening
and cold mornings, and in hard frosty weather
they should be continued moderately throughout
the day ; and when the weather is very severe,
both the front and top glasses should be covered
with mats or shutters every night. Also when
the frost is extremely severe, and not any sun,
the covering should be continued night and day;
or where the house is furnished (which is the
most convenient method) with a painted canvass
fixed on rollers at the top, this should be let
down, which saves much trouble in covering the
top glasses.

SPRING MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

Par. 18. — As the spring advances, and the
warm weather ensues, give air more freely, and
waterings more frequent, the latter about once a
Meek or more, if the weather is very warm. This
will promote a strong growth in the plants, and
increase the size of the fruit ; but during the
tutting easterly winds in March and April, which
this climate is so subject to, be careful not to
admit too much air to chill the house, as at this

186 SPRING MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

season, when the plants and fruit are advancing
in growth, it is very requisite to keep the house
in as regular a temperature as possible.

About March or April, it is of great advantage
to the fruiting plants to draw out some of the old
mould from the top of the pots, and fill them up
with fresh earth or compost. It will promote a
free growth in the plants, and prove very bene-
ficial to the fruit.

SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

Par. 19. — The latter part of the spring treat-
ment must necessarily run into the summer
management of the pines ; generally, therefore,
about May, the extra heat, whether by fire, hot
water, or steam, with which the pinery is heated,
may be discontinued until October ; yet the bark
bed must be supported with a lively bottom heat,
as before directed, which, after being made up
properly in the spring, the bark bed will gene-
rally produce a tolerable heat till August ; but
should the heat have greatly declined, about June
the beds may be forked up, and a small quantity
of fresh bark added, forking it up only about half

SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 187

the depth of the bed in this hot season ; if new
tan is added, it will cause a sufficient heat to
promote the regular swelling of the fruit till
they arrive at maturity.

The succession plants, by the same rule, will
require the same attention to assist them in their
growth, observing in hot weather to give plenty
of air daily, with waterings two or three times
a- week; and about August the first succession
plants for fruiting the following year should be
shifted into the large size pots, to finally remain
therein. Also observe in the shifting that the
balls remain entire. Then fork up the bed, only
about half-way, with about one-fourth of new
bark added ; for it often occurs at this hot season,
when the bed is forked to the bottom, that the
heat becomes too violent. The pots should then
be again plunged, and carefully watered, and
then treated as before directed, which will cause
them to grow freely till October.

Likewise about August, or early in September,
if the small succession plants, such as the early
planted suckers and crowns of the same year,
have made considerable growth, they should be

188 SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES.

shifted into the next size pots, and plunged again
without delay into the renewed bark bed.

It should be borne in mind, that at all times
during the continuance of hot weather, that plenty
of air should be admitted into the house till six
or seven in the evening, or longer if the weather
is very hot. This is very important, both for
strengthening the plants and the swelling of the
fruit -, and when the sun is very scorching, it is
of advantage to shade the pines for two or three
hours in the middle of the day. This may be
done, in the absence of fixed blinds or rollers,
by spreading mats over the top glasses. The
waterings also, during the very hot weather,
should be repeated two or three times a weeL
This should be given towards evening or early
in the morning, and if possible use river or rain
water (the latter is to be preferred) in preference
to spring water ; but where the latter only can
be obtained, let it be exposed to the open air
some time before using. The plants require
while in a free growing state, that the earth in
the pots should be kept moderately moist ; but
(mark) when the fruit is beginning to ripen, then

SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 189

begin to water more sparingly, as too much
moisture at that time will deteriorate the flavour ;
and also as the heat of the summer declines, so
must the air and waterings decline in proportion.

When the fruit has advanced to a large size, it
is frequently necessary, in order to keep them
upright, to place sticks to support them ; and
sometimes, to encourage the growth of the fruit,
the suckers at the bottom, where they have ad-
vanced to a tolerable size for planting, say eight
inches or more, may be removed, (prepared and
planted as before directed,) as these large suckers
take away much of the strength of the plants,
and thereby deprive the fruit of that support
which, when removed, it will receive ; but the
small suckers may remain till the fruit is ripe,
and be treated according to the instructions in
the third paragraph.

As the fruit advances to maturity, and which
for the most part is from June till October, care
should be taken to watch their ripening, which
may be discovered by their changing colour,
most sorts turning yellow. Then they should be
cut, otherwise, by remaining after they have

190 OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, &C.

arrived at full maturity, they become too mellow,
and lose much of their peculiar delicious flavour.
The autumn or October management being
so clearly laid down in former paragraphs, it will
be unnecessary to introduce (separately) any
further observations on that head, although in
the next paragraph some useful directions will be
given.

OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, INCLUDING
DIRECTIONS FOR AUTUMN MANAGEMENT.

Par. 20. — Before leaving the subject, I may
be excused for offering a few additional remarks
on shifting pines generally.

The succession plants will generally require
shifting twice a year, but the fruiting plants
must not be again disturbed in the pots, after the
late summer, or what is generally termed the
autumn shifting, prior to their fruiting the fol-
lowing season ; unless they become infected with
any disease in their early fruiting state, which is
sometimes the case ; and if such disease should
baffle the remedies applied for its cure, it may
then be necessary, as a last resource, to endeavor

OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 191

to recover them from the disorder, by shifting
them into some fresh mould or compost; but
this should not be resorted to, but as the last
expedient.

When you intend to commence the general
shifting, always have your pots in sufficient
quantity, of the different sizes, ready to com-
plete the work ; also your compost as handy
as possible, that the shifting may be finished,
and the pots replunged with all convenient ex-
pedition. If the plants are healthy, when
turned out of the pots, they only require a little
of the old mould rubbed off the edges of the
top of the ball, or occasionally a long or matted
cluster of outside fibres may be pruned off, and
then immediately replanted in the next size pot,
placing first a piece of tile (some prefer putting
several pieces) over the hole in the pot, then
some fresh compost in the bottom, and after
placing the plant in the centre, fill up the sides
with the same, gently shaking and pressing it
down all round, covering over the top of the
old ball, about an inch thick, the pots being

192 OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, &C.

filled very near to the top when finished, and
then give them a moderate watering.

In the spring shifting, it is thought by some
a good plan to shake all the mould from the
roots, and trim the fibres short ; and when the
plants appear unhealthy, the system may not be
disregarded, for by cutting away all black roots
of a decayed nature, and placing the plants in
entire fresh earth, it will frequently restore
them, and cause them with proper treatment to
become healthy and flourishing; in all cases as
soon as the shifting is completed, directly re-
plunge the pots, and shut the pinery close to
draw up the heat of the bark bed.

About the middle of August, the large plants,
either of one or two years growth, having ad-
vanced to a large size, and of sufficient strength
for immediate succession, or capable of produc-
ing fruit in perfection the following year, should
now be shifted into larger pots, wherein they are
finally to remain for fruiting, and also any others
that appear to require larger pots.

This being the season for the last potting of
the first succession plants, for fruiting the next

OBSERVATION ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 193

year, they will require the largest sized pots
allotted for that purpose ; those called twenty-
fours for the middling size plants, and sixteens
for the strong grown plants, and sometimes for
very vigorous grown plants the next size pot
called twelves, may be selected for shifting them
into.

Likewise at this shifting it will be necessary
to provide new tan, to add about one- third or
fourth of what the pit contains, upon the old, as
soon as the plants are taken up for shifting, and
fork it well up together about half way the
depth of the bed, or where the top of the bed has
become very much decayed and earthy, take away
a portion of the worst before the new bark is
added ; this should be done without delay, to be
ready to receive the plants as soon as re-potted.

At this season, if more convenient, and the
weather is warm and fine, the shifting may take
place in the open air, near the pinery, having
the pots and compost ready for the purpose ; but
in the house, should the state of the weather re-
quire it ; turn the plants out one at a time, and
immediately transplant it into the new pot,

K

194 OBSERVATION ON SHIFTING PINES, &C.

first removing a little of the outside mould from
the top edges and sides of the balls, and prune
away any dry or decayed outside fibres ; but if
any of the plants at this shifting appear in an
unhealthy state, they may be shaken wholly out
of the mould, the roots properly pruned, and then
potted in entire new compost; if the sun is ,
powerful after they are replunged in the bark
bed, afford the plants a slight shade for about a
week in the heat of the day, by throwing mats
singly over the top glasses ; by that time the
plants will take fresh root ; after that, air should
be given every warm day by opening some of
the front or top glasses, or both if the weather
is hot.

The revival of the bark bed, as before di-
rected, at this shifting, will be sufficient to carry
the plants well on through this their principal
growing season till October, at which time their
proper management has been clearly laid down
in a former paragraph, (see Par. 4).

REMARKS ON INSECTS. 195

INSECTS^ REMARKS THEREON, WITH INSTRUC-
TIONS HOW TO PREVENT THEM FROM BEING
INJURIOUS.

Par. 21. — Pines, like other plants, are liable
to be infested with small insects of several kinds,
and are frequently, if not attended to in due
time, very injurious, causing them to become
sickly, and in such a stunted state that neither
the plants or fruit make scarcely any progress ;
some only attack the leaves, but others will in-
fest the plants all over, even down to the roots ;
the insects are generally very diminutive, some
appearing like dust, and barely visible, and
some resembling small scales, while others ap-
pear like small bugs ; if these are not attended
to when they first make their appearance, they
will increase very fast, and soon spread over the
whole of the plants ; it will therefore be neces-
sary to use every means possible to destroy them
on their first appearance in the pinery.

Various causes have been assigned for the
pinery becoming foul ; some will say the plants
were diseased when brought from another house,
thereby laying the blame on the former grower;

K 2

196 REMARKS ON INSECTS.

others maintain different opinions ; but if I may
venture an opinion, and considering the vast at-
tention I have paid to the subject, particularly
the nature, habits, and effects insects have upon
the vegetable kingdom, I think I may be allowed
so to do. It is chiefly through bad culture and
uncleanliness.

Having made bold to hazard this opinion,
I will give my reasons for so doing, taking
as the first example the animal creation. It
will be found that bad food, bad drink, and
continued filth, (indeed, it is allowed by all who
have any knowledge of the subject,) will cause
disease and stunted growth, the human frame
not exempt, which, through debility of constitu-
tion and filth, will frequently cause insects to
breed ; and if the animal frame is thus liable to
breed vermin, can it be surprising that the vege-
table tribe should do the same, through being
first diseased, or that pines should become, what
is familiarly termed, lousy, any more than the
human frame should be subject to the leprosy of
that name, and what is still more convincing,
that almost every tree or vegetable, like different
animals, are subject to different species of in-

HEM ARKS ON INSECTS. 197

sects, some produced by nature when the plant
becomes diseased, and some by the winged in-
sects laying their eggs on such trees or plants,
which by nature it knows its young will thrive
best on.

Therefore, if the pines are made unhealthy
by bad treatment, or through neglect, such as
planting them in improper soil, chilling them
frequently with harsh cold spring water, scorch-
ing the roots with violent bark-bed heat, or
allowing it to become too cold for the genial
nature of the plants, it cannot be surprising that
they should become sickly ; and when in that
sickly stunted state, the vermin is almost sure
to follow very rapidly, if not speedily remedied ;
therefore, pine-growing is by no means to be
recommended on a very limited scale, neither
ought any one to feel disappointment by failures,
where sufficient assistance is not allowed, to be
able to pay that attention to them which their
nature requires, but where such is allowed, (ex-
cept by accident,) the fault lays with those who
have the management.

Notwithstanding the above cautions, which

198 REMARKS ON INSECTS.

are intended to avoid an internal disease in the
plants, (if I may use the term,) insects will at
all times make their appearance, which should
be attended to without delay : in the first place,
be careful to keep the pinery at all times very
clean, and when insects appear on the plants,
take a brush, a common painter's brush will do.
and brush as many of the insects as you con-
veniently can off the leaves, even down to the
heart of the plants, but do not injure them, and
also quite down to the bottom where they appear.
Various methods are also used to destroy the
insects; fumigating with tobacco smoke, although
an old method is by no means to be despised ;
indeed, if properly managed, I do not know of
a better, although many, from some trifling oc-
currence, may differ from me. This is done by
means of fumigating bellows, or with a smoking
pot, letting it burn till the house is filled with a
dense smoke, and when the smoke is let off, such
of the insects which have not been killed by it,
will be in a sickly moving state, and by watering
the plants all over through the rose of a large
watering-pot, it will dislodge the remainder,

REMARKS ON INSECTS. 199

which will become drown in the water below, or
they may be immersed all over in a tub in
water, with the chill taken off; some apply to-
bacco dust, or Scotch snuff, over the plant, and
a lotion is also made use of, composed of sul-
phur, snuff, tobacco, &c., to wash the leaves
with, which is applied with a sponge or small
brush, or by dipping the plants all over therein.
When the plants are in a very bad state
through insects, mercury is also used; this is
done by putting the quicksilver into an open
vessel, pour boiling water over it, pouring it
off when cold, then adding more boiling water
until a sufficient quantity has been impregnated
for the use you require, and being placed in a
large tub, when only a little warm, take the
plants out of the pots, and immerse them
therein for a few minutes ; when taken out, place
them upright to dry, and sponge the leaves clean^
and take care to remove everything of a scaly
nature, as that is no doubt a nest of insects; if
the plants are very bad, they may be dipped a
second time before they are re- potted ; this sys-
tem in extreme cases is, I think, the most effica-

200 EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY.

cious remedy, as the quicksilver will have no
effect upon the plants, although so powerful in
its effect upon everything breathing or possess-
ing animation. I should not speak so confi-
dently on this point, had I not have become
convinced from experiments of my own on the
vegetable tribe.

EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY.

Par. 22. — Grapes may be cultivated and
brought to maturity in the pinery, in a very
superior manner, particularly some of the mo&t
esteemed sorts, which will not ripen in this cli-
mate without continual artificial heat ; moreover,
it is generally admitted, and indeed recom-
mended by our best practical gardeners, that
the shade produced from the leaves of the vine,
are of essential service to the pines in summer,
through their producing a salutary shade from
the extreme heat of the sun ; and although the
pinery, from the heat which it is necessary to
maintain for the general culture of the pine, is
of that nature to be repugnant to the growth of
most tree fruits, yet it will bring to maturity in

EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY. 201

great perfection those sorts of grapes which
other forcing houses cannot be expected to do,
the vinery excepted.

The plants should be planted in a border
prepared for them, outside the south front, east
end, or west end of the house, as circumstances
must dictate ; when planted in the front, and
for quick produce, one plant is generally planted
against each style or upright quartering of the
front of the hothouse, and after being trained
with a single stem of one or two summer's
growth, it is introduced into the house early in
winter, through a small hole in the wall or other
aperture formed for the purpose, and trained up
(one stem) along each rafter, having fixed
wires or thin slips of wood nailed across to train
the young shoots to.

I need not expatiate further on the subject,
here, as hereafter the management of the vine
will be more elaborately treated on ; but before
leaving the pinery altogether, I shall make a
few remarks on its further uses.

K 5

202 VARIETIES OF FRUITS

CHOICE VARIETIES OF FRUITS, FLOWERS, ETC.,
IN THE PINERY.

Par. 23. — Both in the main pinery, and the
succession house, various sorts of exotics may be
preserved and forwarded on shelves erected for
the purpose, or elsewhere where there is room,
particularly such (whether succulent, herbaeeous5
or woody kinds) which are from similar hot
climates to those of the pine, as the heat and
management suited to the pine will generally
suit the other, the greatest difference in the
culture being in potting, and the different soils,
which are best suited for the varieties that may
be introduced, which must be left to the judg -
ment of the cultivator, but for the most part the
soil recommended for pines, or of such a nature,
will be suitable for stove plants, except some of
the succulents ; and those particularly which are
very full of moisture, should be planted in a
light rubbishy or sandy compost, for when the
stalks and leaves are by nature full of humidity,
if planted in rich moist earth they are liable to
rot.

AND FLOWERS. 203

Likewise the pinery is very convenient to
bring forward many sorts of hardy plants and
flowering shrubs for early blooming, such as
roses, honeysuckles, azalias, kalmias, rhododen-
drons, and various other varieties of American
plants, also Persian and Siberian lilacs, pinks,
dwarf tulips, hyacinths, narcissus, jonquils,
anemones, ranunculuses, &c.

The pinery is also of considerable use to for-
ward many useful culinary plants, such as kidney
beans, cucumbers, small salads, mint, tarragon,
&c. ; likewise strawberries in pots. The above
useful and ornamental plants may be introduced
into the pinery any time in winter, from Decem-
ber (or earlier if required) till April, introducing
a portion only at a time, in order to keep up a
succession, as circumstances may require.

USEFUL REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE CHAPTER
ON HOTHOUSE BUILDING, ETC.

Par. 24. — The foregoing paragraphs contain-
ed in this chapter will be found to embrace much
useful information, which may be considered
applicable to many cases connected with hot-

204 REMARKS ON

house building and culture generally, which will
preclude the necessity of repetition ; at least 1
intend to avoid it as much as I conveniently
can ; although in some cases it may be intro-
duced with the view of rendering the substance
of each paragraph as intelligible as possible,
without the trouble of reference to other parts
of the work.

But gardening 'architecture, like that of land-
scape gardening, requires not only a natural
taste, but a matured judgment is also requisite ;
and when the two are blended together in the
same person, everything that may be wished for
may be expected when under such superinten-
dence.

When conservatories are intended to be
erected, the taste and judgment are then
brought into full play, as situations, aspects, and
various other circumstances will preclude the
possibility of conveying any thing like an accu-
rate idea or fixed principle for their general
construction ; for, like landscape gardening, the
imagination cannot conveniently be dispensed
with (mark, I mean for superior works) in these

HOTHOUSE BUILDING. 205

cases. What painters term general effect, is
required, breadth of light and shade, connection
of parts, grouping, according to the diversity of
the scenery. Many think when they have en-
gaged a first-rate gardener he can do anything
in laying out or improving, but improvements
and alterations are two different things ; the
knowledge required for a good horticultural
gardener to possess, is very different to the
taste and judgment requisite for the disposition
of woody scenery, and of a fundamental know-
ledge of arboriculture, which none but those who
have a thorough knowledge of the nursery bu-
siness can possess ; for without such knowledge
he cannot possibly be a sufficient judge of the
nature and constitution of trees generally, to
know which will and which will not suit the dif-
ferent soils and situations. This is one principal
cause why so many failures take place, and
what is still worse, the disappointment which
ensues.

It has been said, by some writers on this
subject, who profess landscape gardening, that
it is a good test of a man's science in every

206 REMARKS ON HOTHOUSE BUILDING.

branch of gardening, if he can sketch general
scenery, but I have invariably traced such
writers to be pen -gardeners only ; yet they but
too frequently delude, not only the credulous,
but many country gentlemen, who ought to be
acquainted with such matters, suffer their judg-
ment to be drawn aside by such writers.

Any man who has pretensions to landscape
gardening or gardening architecture generally,
has a taste for drawing, and without which he
cannot excel, for he must be expected to com-
pose a design that can be carried into execution ;
but I cannot discover what test this can be for
the fundamental knowledge of gardening.

The principles of gardening architecture, and
particularly as regards conservatories, are sy-
nonimous with those of garden scenery, indeed
principles of unity and composition are the same
in all arts of taste ; it would therefore be pre-
sumptive to attempt to lay down any fixed prin-
ciple for the construction of conservatories.

CHAPTER II.

On forcing Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots ; Cherries,
Grapes, and other choice fruits.

OBSERVATIONS RELATING TO PEACHERIES, VINE-
RIES, AND OTHER FORCING HOUSES ; WITH
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON RAISING DIF-
FERENT SORTS OF FRUITS, VEGETABLES, AND
FLOWERS THEREIN.

Par. 25. — By the assistance of forcing houses
many sorts of fruits, indeed, most of our best
stone fruits, are brought forward, and will
ripen in the greatest perfection, several months
sooner than they can be obtained in the open
air, such as peaches, nectarines, apricots,
cherries, plums, &c. ; also figs, and many other

208 OBSERVATIONS RELATING TO

desirable fruits ; likewise grapes, some of which
never ripen in the open air, in any part of
England, particularly some of the most choice,
large, late sorts, being natives of much warmer
climates ; and, although some sorts will ripen
well in the open air, against south walls, or
sometimes when cultivated in the vineyard order
in the open ground; yet any of the varieties
(particularly the finest) will ripen most effec-
tually in the hothouse ; with the flavour highly
improved, and the fruit much larger ; and by
having some of the early sorts, such as will
generally ripen against the open wall, intro-
duced into the hothouse, they will ripen early,
and cause an early supply in spring, prior to the
later sorts coming to perfection ; and by proper
attention to the culture of the vine, which
will be hereafter directed, a very lengthened
supply may be obtained.

Raspberries and strawberries can, likewise, be
brought to good perfection early in the forcing
house ; also a few gooseberries and currants
for tarts, together with a great many other
useful plants for culinary purposes ; such as

PEACHES VINERIES, &C. 209

rhubarb for tarts, kidney beans, small salading,
cucumbers, &c., may be sowed in pots, or boxes,
and may be introduced as may be required,
or convenient from November until April ;
but I would recommend small portions only,
for very early forcing ; but in January and
February, kidney beans, and cucumbers, with
many other esculents, may be admitted into
the hothouse, for good early crops, without
fear of success, and a further supply introduced
every three or four weeks, till April, of such
as may be required, which will then be suc-
ceeded by crops in the natural way in the open
ground.

Pots may also be introduced, containing the
roots of tarragon mint, tansey, &c. ; and occa-
sionally in the borders of the house, may be
raised some early dwarf peas, mazagan beans,
and lettuce plants, for early use ; also kidney
beans, mazagan beans, and dwarf, early peas,
may be sown thick, in large pots, and placed
in the forcing house, late in the winter, or
early in spring, and remain there till they have
grown an inch or two high, for transplanting

210 PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES.

into hotbeds, warm borders, or protected frames5
for a succession, prior to the main summer
ground crops.

Flowers likewise, of different varieties, can
be brought forward early in the hothouse, and
with proper arrangements, a succession kept up
during the latter part of the winter, and the
early spring months, such as hyacinths nar-
cissus, jonquils, dwarf tulips, irises, anemones,
ranuncules, and many other bulbous and tuberous
rooted flowers ; also many sorts of fibrous-rooted
plants, and ornamented shrubs, including pinks,
carnations, roses, honeysuckles, jasmines, double
blossom peach, double blossom almond, double
blossom cherry, Persian and Siberian lilacs,
rhododendrons, andromedas, kalmias, azalias,
camellias, &c. &c.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT PLANS FOR
FORCING HOUSES; METHODS OF HEATING,
WITH GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 26. — The directions given in the first
paragraph for building hothouses, will, in the
main, be a sufficient description for forcing houses

PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES. 211

generally, at the same time, a vast difference
will present itself in this chapter, relative to
the culture generally, of the various fruits, which
are brought to perfection in forcing houses,
including the modes of heating, &c. ; but my
long practice, great application, and consequent
experience, compels me to cling for choice, to
the hothouse built, facing the south ; therefore,
for the general building of forcing houses,
refer to the first paragraph, second part.

The internal part of the hothouse, for forcing
tree fruits, &c., may either have a pit in the
centre for a bark bed, to furnish a constant
heat, and for the plunging of various pots with
plants in them, or the whole space left open for
planting trees ; in the latter case, the centre of
the bottom of the house may be covered with
peaches, nectarines, &c., as well as along the
back walls.

The grape vine is particularly adapted
for forcing, in every description of forcing
house, as they will stand the high heat of
the pinery, where they will come to the
greatest perfection ; while peaches, nectarines,
&c., require a more moderate heat, not ex-

212 PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES.

ceeding sixty, or sixty -five degrees ; but in
peach houses, also grapes will come to great
perfection, but if introduced, they should be
confined as much as possible to the rafters, in
order that they may not obstruct the rays
of the sun, as the sun is most essential, both
for the colouring and flavouring the fruit, par-
ticularly that of peaches and nectarines.

The vinery, or house intended principally for
forcing grapes, may be kept at as high a tem-
perature as that of the pinery, by which means
very early crops will be obtained in the greatest
perfection ; and as the vinery may be of any
length required, from ten to one hundred feet,
or more, it may be divided by merely a glass
partition, in suitable proportions, for very early
and later supplies; but in the vinery, or that part
where very early crops are intended to be raised,
a bark bed along the centre of the house is
highly beneficial in assisting the heat produced
by fire or hot water ; but when not required so
early, they can be forced by heat solely of fire or
hot water : therefore different forcing houses, are
generally in large forcing establishments, allotted

PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES. 213

to the different sorts of fruits separately, although
the erections may be in nearly the same form ;
consisting of pineries, vineries, peacheries, (prin-
cipally for peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums,
figs, &c.,) and cherry houses, chiefly for cherries;
in the whole of which, vines are frequently intro-
duced, to train up under the top glasses, and all
the forcing houses are likewise of great utility
for producing early flowers, vegetables, &c.

The various forcing houses are sometimes con-
structed on different plans, some from taste,
others through the situation, not allowing the
house to be built lengthways, from east to west ;
but they should always be erected to receive as
much sun as the situation will admit of. Some
forcing houses for tree fruits are formed, for being
heated by fire heat, through flues; others by steam
or hot water through pipes, without any bark
bed. Others are worked by bark bed heat alone,
which produces a regular, kind heat through-
out the house, but this alone will not bring the
trees so forward as when assisted with fire or hot
water, or with the latter alone ; but where there
is a bark bed, less fire or hot water will be re-

'214 GENERAL FORCING HOUSE.

quired, and that only of nights principally, or
occasionally of cold mornings, or sometimes
throughout the day in very severe weather ; but
in a mild season, this will only be necessary of
evenings, till nine or ten o'clock. Where heated
with fire or hot water alone, it will be required
to be continued every evening and morning, and
moderately all day in cold weather, to support
a regular heat.

DESCRIPTION OF A GENERAL FORCING HOUSE.

Par. 27. — A hothouse intended for a general
forcing house should certainly, if possible, be
built facing the south, or as nearly so as the
situation will permit, constructed in the same
form as described for pines, in the first paragraph.
The dimensions must entirely depend upon cir-
cumstances : the back wall may be eight, ten, or
twelve feet high, the upright glasses in front
four, five, or six feet high, to be in proportion to
the back wall ; the width from ten, twelve, fifteen
to twenty feet, and the length to any extent that
may be required, from ten to one hundred feet
or more! This must entirely depend on circum-

GENERAL FORCING HOUSE. 215

stances, and the dimensions arranged and guided
by the judgment of those who have the manage-
ment. Some prefer building the house without
upright glasses in front, the top glasses reaching
from the top of the back wall down to a low wall
in front, with a plate of wood fixed thereon ; but
the front being formed of upright moveable
sashes on a wall one or two feet high, is cer-
tainly the most eligible plan, both for appearance
and the convenience of head room and other pur-
poses within. If intended to be heated by fire
with flues, refer to paragraph the first, where
full directions will be found, suitable for heating
a house of this description, but if by hot water
or steam, refer to paragraph the thirteenth.

When the house is built of considerable length,
it may be divided by glass partitions, in which
some part or parts may, if preferred, have a bark
pit erected, embracing the advantage both of
the bark bed heat (and its uses for plunging in,
&c.) and that of fire or hot water. Other por-
tions of the house may be forced by fire or hot
water heat alone, without bark, which gives a
a much greater space for fruit trees and other

216 GENERAL FORCING HOUSE.

purposes, the whole of the bottom of the house
being free.

When a bark bed is erected in a fruit forcing
house, an internal border is prepared along the
back, and another of sufficient width along the
front for planting the trees in. This is a very
desirable plan for vines, but where a bark pit is
introduced into a general fruit forcing house, it
is necessary the house should be of considerable
width, to admit of the borders, pit and paths. The
bark bed pit may also be built after the directions
in paragraph the first, and it must not be for-
gotten that where the house is wide, say, from
fifteen to twenty feet, it will be necessary to have
upright supporters along the middle of the house
under each rafter.

PREPARING BORDERS FOR THE TREES, AND
THE DIFFERENT SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING ;
INCLUDING GRAPE VINES.

Par. 28. — The borders in the forcing house
must be made according as the width of the
house will admit,, and also must be guided by the
internal arrangements generally, but much de-

BORDERS FOR THE TREES. 217

pends upon the judgment of having a thorough
practical knowledge of soils, which will suit the
different kinds of fruit trees intended to be
planted. Generally, where the natural soil, on
which the forcing house is built, is of a rich
loamy quality, much less judgment will be re-
quired in preparing the borders, as all fruit trees
will succeed in a light deep loamy soil ; and
when this is the case, no further trouble is
necessary, beyond trenching the ground two
spades deep, throwing up the two crumbs, and
loosen the soil at the bottom of , the trench,
before throwing in the next top spit. If the soil
is tolerably rich, no manure will be necessary ;
if poor, add some thoroughly -rotted dung, in
proportion to the poorness of the soil ; at the
bottom of the trench, after it is loosened, and
again on the top spit after it is turned over, and
more oji the second spit after it is turned over,
and then throw the second crumb over it, and
before planting, the border may be again turned
over slightly, to cause it to be well mixed. This
will be quite sufficient for all kinds of stone
fruits, particularly peaches and nectarines, or

L

218 BORDERS FOR THE TREES.

any trees worked on plums, for those trees are
very apt to become diseased through over rich
soil, and from which they seldom or ever recover.

Where the soil is naturally of an unkind qua-
lity, it will then be necessary to remove a portion
thereof, two, three, four, five, or six feet deep, ac-
cording to the nature of the soil below, and the
vacuum filled up with good fresh loamy soil ; and if
tolerably rich, it will not require any manure to
be added, otherwise a small quantity of rotten dung
may be mixed with it ; but be very sparing of
manure for peaches and nectarines, for be it
recollected that fruit is required as well as barren
wood, and you may at all times assist the tree
by removing the fruit when necessary; while, on
the other hand, it requires more than ordinary
skill to check the trees when they get into too
luxurious a state of growth, which generally
causes swellings and gumming, and finally ter-
minates with canker and decay. Mark, I am
speaking from extensive practice.

When preparing the borders for grape vines,
either in the house or along the front, outside,
the nature of the soil requires the first consider-

BORDERS FOR THE TREES. 219

ation, both for the growth of the vines and the
ripening and flavour of the fruit. If the natural
soil is of a deep, light, mellow, loamy nature,
little is required beyond trenching the border
two or three feet deep, mixing with it a tolerable
good dressing of compost, such as rotten dung,
brick rubbish, scrapings of turnpike roads, &c.
By this practice vines will generally succeed
better than by removing the natural soil two or
three feet deep, which is often the practice, and
bringing in a different soil, which the vine is fond
of; for although the plants may grow very freely
for the first few years, yet when the roots get
down to the soil of quite a different nature and
which they may not be so fond of, they are very
apt, just as they are coming into bearing, to lose
part of their vigour, which will render them not
so well able to stand a crop of fruit, or at least,
produce such fine bunches and large berries, as
if they had not been too nicely fed at first.

Where it should so happen that the land is of
that nature, either a bed of gravel, strata of clay,
or otherwise so unkind that it may be deemed
necessary to remove the natural soil, and bring

L 2

220 BORDERS FOR THE TREES.

in that of a different quality, I would recommend
it to be taken out both wide and deep, not less
than eight or ten feet at least, in order that the
vines may have room to extend their roots for
years, and three or four feet of the bottom filled
up of light loam, with a considerable portion of
rough dry brick rubbish, road scrapings, &c. ; and
where the soil is of such a nature at the bottom as
to be repugnant to the nature of the vine, such as
a rank clay, &c., I would recommend the paving
the bottom, prior to putting in the new compost,
to prevent the roots getting into a soil which, if
it should not prove altogether so injurious to
their growth, may greatly deteriorate the flavour
of the fruit, and is frequently the cause of the
bunches ripening in a disorderly sort of manner,
some of the berries becoming quite ripe, while
others are quite sour. But the soil is not always
the cause of grapes ripening thus, as bad pruning
will often produce the same effects, as well as
meagre ragged bunches. Indeed, a celebrated
vine-grower, and who in his day was denominated
the prince of gardeners, said that (speaking of
France) if a vineyard was pruned badly one

SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. 221

season, it would take seven years to bring it
into a proper state of bearing again ; and although
I may not go the whole length of that assertion,
this much I can add, that the knife is the life
and spirit of fruit trees, when well handled, but
their greatest enemy, in the hands of one not
capable of using it properly.

Whether in a general forcing house or in
different forcing houses, either constructed on the
same plan or otherwise, the sorts of fruit trees
chiefly selected for forcing, consists of peaches,
nectarines, apricots, cherries, plums, figs, and
grapes.

Although I would wish to refer generally to
the explanatory lists in the Fruit Grower's In-
structor for more full particulars, yet I think it
will not be out of place here to name some of the
best sorts for forcing, such as I would choose
myself. I should therefore select them thus,
according to the number required : take the sorts
as they stand on the lists. At the same time I
am not intending by this to prejudice any other
valuable and esteemed kinds, but only recom-

222

SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING.

mending such as I know to be excellent in
quality, and suitable for the purposes of forcing.

1 Noblesse

2 Royal George, smooth-

leaved
5 French Mignion

4 Vanguard

5 Early Gallande

PEACHES.

6 Violet Hative

7 Millet's Mignion

8 Red Magdalen, or old

Royal George

9 Early Admirable
10 Early Ann

1 Elruge

2 Red Roman

3 Violet Hative

1 Moor Park

2 Breda

1 May Duke

2 Biggereau

3 Circassian

NECTARINES.

4 Brugnioa

5 Murrey

6 Italian

APRICOTS.

3 Royal Orange

4 Roman

CHERRIES.

4 Archduke

5 Florence

6 Waterloo

PLUMS.

1 Royal Green Gage 4 Coe's Golden Drop

2 Early Orleans 5 St. Looe

3 Late Orleans 6 Blue Gage

SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. 223

FIGS.

1 Large White Genoa 4 Black Ischia

2 Black Italian 5 Malta

3 Large Brown Ischia 6 Green Ischia

GRAPES.

1 Black Hamburgh 7 New White Sweet Water

2 Royal Muscadine, white 8 Black Damascus

3 West's St. Peter's, black 9 Black Muscadine

4 White Muscat of Alex- 10 White Frontinac

andria 11 St. Peter's, very black

5 Black Prince 12 White Syrian

6 Lombardy, red

PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS OF PLANTING
TREES FOR FORCING.

Par. 29. — The month of November is deci-
dedly the best in the year for planting fruit
trees, and when the wood becomes tolerably
firm, and the leaf falls freely, the earlier in the
month the better, as they will in that early
season produce fresh roots almost immediately
after planting, which is of considerable import-
ance, particularly when they are intended for
immediate forcing, although in open weather
they may be removed in December, January,

2'24 PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS

or February ; the trees should be carefully taken
up, with good full roots, and if convenient, to
remove them with balls of earth, it will be of
grat advantage, when intended to be forced the
same season.

The trees (except those that may be brought
in with round heads in pots or otherwise, for
forcing in the centre of the house) ought to be at
least two years trained in the wall-tree order ;
and for peaches, nectarines, and apricots, where
the house is chiefly to be devoted to their forcing,
I would recommend one row at the back of the
house, planted against a neat trellis of thin wood
or wire work, fixed near to the wall, about eight
or ten feet apart. These should be dwarfs, and
be careful not to plant them too deep, only
thoroughly cover the roots, leaving the stem of
the stock as much above ground as you con-
veniently can, to prevent the tree sinking below
where it was budded ; and if required to have
the back wall covered early, some standards or
half standards, with stems three or four feet high,
according to the height of the house, may be
planted between the dwarfs, but these should be

OF PLANTING TREES FOR FORCING. 225

removed when the dwarfs require their room,
as it would prove a loss rather than a gain to
have them too much crowded.

The next and only other row of trees that I
would recommend to be planted in the peach-
house, is along near the front path, these also
previously trained as before described. The
plan I am about to describe is one of the best
methods I ever witnessed ; have a thin iron
frame-work constructed in a semicircular form,
about the substance of iron hurdles generally
used to protect pleasure grounds, &c. from sheep ;
this should be fixed along the front within ten
or twelve inches of the pathway, and made to
bow over the centre of the bottom of the house,
supported by uprights, fixed at necessary dis-
tances along the back, near to the footpath, with
strong iron wires run through the frame- work,
about five or six inches apart to train the trees
to ; by this plan the whole of the centre of the
house will be covered with fruit trees, as well as
the back, and the frame-work being bowed over,
it will very little obstruct the sun from the trees
at the back, as the frame should be made to

L5

226 PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS

I

rise more upright at the front and towards the
middle more gradual, and along the top nearly
flat, the height at the back not being more than
from three and a half or four feet, unless the
house is very lofty ; in this way the trees will
bear exceedingly well, and the fruit become very
fine, and also during the time of ripening, the
fruit is easily prevented from falling to the ground
by placing a net underneath. The house thus
planted may be forced by fire heat in the usual
way, with flues if preferred ; but in this case I
should decidedly prefer hot water, both for con-
venience and appearance, as the pipe with
returns may be ranged along the centre under
the frame-work, and will scarcely be perceptible
to the casual observer, and also along near the
front glasses, where if a frame is made between
the foot-path and the sashes for the forwarding
of flowers, French beans, strawberries, or what
might be required, the pipes would be also
nearly concealed underneath. If vines are intro-
duced, they may be planted either inside the
house or on the outside, and admitted through
an aperture made for the purpose ,• also many

OF PLANTING TREES FOR FORCING. 227

useful things may be raised under the centre
frame, such as small salads, early rhubarb for
tarts, tarragon, mint, &c.

When the centre of the house is left open for
forcing generally, many sorts of fruits may be
forced therein, either in pots plunged in the
earth, or established trees in a bearing state
turned out of the pots and planted immediately
without disturbing the balls; to effect this the
more easily, let the earth in the pots become
rather dry, and they will come out of the pots
with little trouble, and without injury to the
balls.

Let me here remark, that it is by no means a
good method to force trees the first year after
planting, particularly when removed from nur-
series without balls, therefore in all new- planted
houses it is desirable for the future welfare of
the trees to let them remain open and fully ex-
posed till the following season, and then only
a small quantity of fruit should be allowed to
remain on each tree, particulary if the trees
had not received more than two years training
when planted.

228 GLASS-HOUSES FOR FORCING,

NARROW GLASS-HOUSES FOR FORCING, PRINCI-
PALLY BY FIRE -HEAT OR HOT WATER.

Par. 30. — Glass houses of narrow dimensions
for forcing fruit trees principally, are sometimes
erected (for forcing with hot water or fire heat)
against a south wall eight or ten feet high or
more, width about five or six feet, and length of
any extent that may be required, the whole
enclosed with glass moveable sashes (in proper
sloping frames) made to slide up and down as
occasion may require, from a low front wall
about eighteen inches high, to the top of the
back wall ; the pipes for hot water or flues for
fire-heat, may be ranged along near the front, or
down the middle, or along the back part near
the wall, the pipes should be raised a little from
the ground, and if heated by flues, they should
also be raised on low arches, that by being
detached from the ground, the house will re-
ceive the benefit of the whole of the heat : the
trees may be trained to the wall ; but if the
flues or pipes are -carried along the back close
to the wall, it will be necessary to have a trellis

BY FIRE OR HOT WATER. 229

ten or twelve inches from the flues ; or the trees
may be planted next the front, and trained up
parallel with the glass to wire work, properly
arranged for the occasion, about eight or ten
inches from the glass, by this latter method the
sun has great influence in forwarding the fruit
and bringing it to early perfection.

These kinds of glass slips for fruit forcing,
may be of long dimensions, and so contrived
that part of the trees may be forced one year,
and part another, by having the frames and
sashes of equal size, so that they may be re-
moved from one division to another, and by
giving the trees one or two years' respite, occa-
sionally, exposing them fully to the open air, will
greatly renovate their constitution, and strength-
en them for future forcing.

FORCING FRAMES FOR FORCING FRUIT-TREES
BY BARK-BED HEAT ALONE.

Par. 31. — In large forcing establishments, be-
sides the foregoing plans for forcing peaches, nec-
tarines, &c., a kind of forcing frames are con-
structed, wholly of woodwork at the back, front,

230 FRAMES FOR FORCING FRUIT-TREES.

and ends, made of strong deal boards five or six
feet high in the back by two feet in the front, both
ends corresponding ; in width about eight feet, and
the length for one tree ten feet, and so on for
two or more trees, at ten feet apart, each frame
to have three lights, or sloping glass sashes, with
rafters across the frame for them to slide on,
and in the back a pannel made to slide, for
entrance.

The tan- pit below may be formed either of
brick- work or post and planking about three
feet deep, the trees are planted in the font, out-
side, on a raised border, the stein of the tree
inclining to the frame, and a piece cut out of
the frame to let in the stem, the head admitted
within, and trained up about eight or ten inches
under the glasses ; the bark bed to be renewed
at the commencement of each forcing season ;
and by this plan also, peaches and nectarines
will come to good perfection early, but I may
observe, it is not very convenient, neither is it
very generally adopted.

VINERY FOR FORCING GRAPES, &C. 231

VINERY, OR HOUSE PRINCIPALLY FOR FORCING
GRAPES, METHODS OF OBTAINING THE PLANTS,
WITH USEFUL OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 32. — Where a house is designed chiefly
for forcing grapes, the fruit may be brought to
the finest possible perfection, much earlier than in
forcing houses intended for other fruit trees, as
the vine will stand quite as much heat or more,
as is usually allowed in the pinery; and by
forcing some of the early sorts among the fine
* large late varieties, this delicious fruit can be
produced in May, and by divisions in the vinery,
a supply may be continued throughout the sum-
mer and autumn.

The vines are generally planted inside the
house, some near the back wall, about three
feet and a half apart, and trained to trellis
work ; and others in a border along the front
near the pipes or flues, and the stems trained up
to the rafters, and as they branch out, the young
shoots are trained to wires or thin crossbars of
wood, about six inches from the top glass;
sometimes the vines are planted on a border

23*2 VINERY FOR FORCING GRAPES, &C.

outside the house, and admitted through holes,
and conducted to the rafters ; but I am of opi-
nion, with most other practical men, that for
early and strong forcing, it is better to have the
stem inside ; but this is not of so much conse-
quence where they are introduced into peach
houses, or other glass houses only requiring
moderate heat.

Like other fruit trees, the best time for plant-
ing is in November, and if then omitted, about
the middle of February is the next best season;
the plants should be two, three, or four years •
old for planting in the vinery, particularly if
raised from eyes, and if established in pots, they
are far preferable ; should the roots be through
at the bottom of the pots, by breaking the pots
to pieces, the balls can be preserved entire. The
different sorts may be obtained at most of the
respectable nurseries, raised either by layers or
from eyes. There appears to be a diversity of
opinion among practical men as to which is the
most preferable for planting, the layers, or those
raised from eyes ; some contending, that the
layers come into bearing earlier than the eyes,

OBTAINING TREES FOR FORCING, &C. 233

while the eyes receive the preference for making
a more rapid growth when first planted ; how-
ever, I have seen both succeed well, when pro-
perly managed, in growth, and likewise produce.
Although in Par. 28 I have recommended a
limited number of sorts which are known to be
good, still there are several other fine varieties
of grapes which should not be omitted where
the vinery is extensive ; also, when the vines
have grown large, they ought to be thinned, for
there will not be anything gained by having the
house too much crowded.

HOW TO OBTAIN FRUIT TREES INTENDED FOR
FORCING, WITH A NECESSARY CAUTION.

Par. 33. — When selecting fruit trees for
forcing, in order to have such sorts as are recom-
mended in this work, or other favourite sorts,
established nurseries of known respectability,
and the proprietors thereof of known judgment,
should be applied to for the same, as the best
security against being supplied with a spurious
kind, or the tree worked on a stock which is not
suited to the variety, the latter being of con-

234 OBTAINING TREES FOR FORCING, &C.

siderable importance ; for although the bud may
take, and the tree grow freely for a time if
worked on an improper stock, they will fre-
quently, when coming into bearing, dwindle
away ; and although some may exist for years,
they are merely an incumbrance to the house.
Here I am speaking more particularly of peaches,
nectarines, and apricots, as it cannot be expected
from the general practice of gardeners that they
should be acquainted sufficiently with the wood
of the different kinds, to know them by, while in
a young state in the nursery, or the nature of
the stocks on which the different sorts ought to
be budded; and it is very mortifying when
the trees come into bearing to find, instead of a
favourite peach, perhaps a nectarine substituted,
or some other peach of inferior quality.

MANAGEMENT OF VINES, AND SEASONS FOR
FORCING.

Par. 34. — Prior to the vines being forced, it
will be necessary for them to be properly pruned,
upon which subject I almost fear to hazard an
opinion, there being so many different methods

MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 235

adopted, together with the almost impossibility
of conveying anything like straightforward di-
rections for the different varieties, and the
various primings they have to go through. At
the winter pruning, it has now become almost
an invariable rule to spur indiscriminately to one
or two eyes, and for a general rule perhaps it
may be the best. This practice has however been
adopted, chiefly in consequence of its having
been discovered that one of the finest forcing
grapes, the " Black Hamburgh," succeeds de-
cidedly best by this practice ; but this is not the
case with every sort ; for some, although they
may produce a good supply of bunches, they are
very apt not to grow regular and handsome, nei-
ther do some sorts ripen so regularly as when
produced from the young wood, left three, four,
or five buds long according to their strength ;
but much depends upon the summer, or rather
the spring pruning, (for the first pruning is the
principal to insure a crop for the ensuing season ;)
at this season it is too common a practice to re-
move the greater part of the small shoots which
have no fruit on them, while I should wish it to

236 MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C.

be borne in mind that these small shoots, (I do
not mean little dwindling stuff,) if allowed to
remain, and cut back to the second or third bud
according to their strength, will generally pro-
duce fine burxcbes, while I have remarked that
the young wood which had borne the fruit, when
cut back, did not produce them so regular and
fine, this I have observed to be the case with such
sorts as the sweet water, royal muscadine, &c. ;
but I feel myself getting into a labyrinth, and
must conclude these observations by the excuse set
forth at the commencement of the paragraph, with
this only addition, that nothing but great prac-
tice among vines can convey anything like the
directions for pruning, which the vine requires,
leaving out of the question the different varieties,
but hope these hints will not be taken amiss by
the experienced man and extensive grower, and
that it may lead them to watch the nature of the
different kinds.

The winter pruning may be done any time in
December or later, when the forcing does not
commence early, always cutting back to three

MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 237

or four buds some of the strongest young shoots
of the last summer's, growth, to produce a re-
gular supply -of bearing wood from the bottom
of the vines, some of which should be allowed
to run nearly their full length during the sum-
mer, but should be cleared of their lateral
shoots, which will prevent too great a cluster of
twigs, and give light to the house and strength
to the main buds of the principal shoot, from
which, when allowed to remain of tolerable
length at the following winter's pruning, will
generally produce the largest and often the
finest bunches, probably two, three, or more on
each.

In the early part, or about the middle of
January, is the general season for setting the
vinery in motion ; if there is a pit within, which
is intended for tan, let the bed be made, the
warmth from which will bring the vines into
activity ; or if the bark bed is not required, the
forcing may commence by fire, steam, or hot-
water heat alone, whichever has been allotted
for the purpose ; but with or without a bark
bed, the assistance of fires for warming the

238 MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C.

house by flues or pipes will be very essential
after the first week or ten days of the house
having been heated by the bark bed ; the fires
should be made every evening, and kept up till
nine or ten o'clock to warm the air of the house
till morning, when it will be necessary (particu-
larly if there be no bark bed) to revive the
fires, and in cold weather continue them the
whole day moderately ; but when the season is
more advanced, and the sun becomes powerful,
the fires may be discontinued after the morning,
until the evening, and thus the heat may be
managed till May, or later, if the weather proves
cold, or be guided more especially as the fruit
appears to ripen, generally keeping up the tem-
perature equal to the pine stove ; when the vines
begin to break, or rather the shoots begin to
put forth, give air moderately in the middle of
warm sunny days, either in the front, or by
drawing open some of the top-glasses next the
back, and more freely as the warm weather ad-
vances.

As the summer growth of the vines advances,
the young shoots require great attention; all

MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 239

those which have fruit on them, and also such
as may be considered eligible for reserving for
bearing the next season, should be trained in
regular order, and should be kept clear of all
laterals and twigs of a useless nature; and after
the bloom is over, and the fruit well set, the
shoots on which the fruit appears should be short-
ened to about two joints above the fruit ; or where
there are two bunches, and the shoot weak, one
bud only may be left above the top bunch, this
will greatly encourage the swelling of the fruit.
* While the berries are small, and the bunches
appear likely to become crowded, some of the
most irregular berries may be thinned out with
a pair of pointed scissors, which will give the
others room to swell, and cause the berries to
grow regular, and the bunches to become hand-
some.

Vines which are grown in the pinery, or pine
hothouse, generally produce ripe fruit in the
same order, and in the same seasons as those
above stated in the first forcing of the vinery,
which is generally about May a few, plentiful in

240 COLD GLASS HOUSE FOR VINES.

Jane and July, and so on until the succession is
ready.

GREEN HOUSE, OR COLD GLASS HOUSE FOR
VINES.

Par. 35. — Vines are frequently introduced
into greenhouses when constructed with a glass
roof, similar to that of the hothouse, the vines
planted in a border outside of the front, and
carried through to the rafters inside as before
directed, and treated in the same manner as the
hothouse, selecting such sorts as are tolerably
early in their ripening, such as the royal musca-
dine, black Hamburgh, &c. ; and if the house is
furnished with fire flues, or hot water pipes,
they may be moderately heated occasionally
in March, April, and May, as the weather may
dictate, this will forward their fruiting; and in
such houses, very abundant crops of fruit are
brought to good perfection, six weeks or more,
before those grown in the open air ; and even if
there is not any artificial heat internally, the
benefit of the sun through the glass, together
with the protection it affords in cold weather,

TEACH HOUSE FOR FORCING. 241

will generally produce good crops, and con-
siderably forward the ripening of the fruit, and
in most seasons, superior to those against the
walls in the open air.

PEACH HOUSE, ITS CULTURE, AND GENERAL
UTILITY FOR FORCING.

Par. 36. — The peachery is principally appro-
priated for forcing peaches, nectarines, and
apricots, and if required, many other sorts of
fruits ; such as plums, cherries, figs, vines, &c.

Previous to the forcing being commenced,
the peaches, nectarines, &c., should be pro-
perly pruned, according to their orders of
bearing, nearly in the same way as is usually
practised for fruit bearing trees in the open air.
The peach house is also of great utility for
forwarding many useful and ornamental plants,
as directed in other hothouse culture.

The forcing is generally begun about the
middle, or towards the end of January, or
sometimes early in February ; if there is a
bark pit, the bed should be made a week
or ten days prior to commencing the fires ;

M

242 PEACH HOUSE FOR FORCING.

when the fires are began, either for flues or
pipes, they must be continued every evening
moderately till nine or ten o'clock, and so left
to cause proper warmth in the house during
the night, and be revived in the morning, if
cold weather ; and if there be no bark bed,
continue the fire throughout the day, but when
there is a bark bed, the day fires will only
be necessary in sharp, cutting weather, or
during severe frosts ; always, however, endea-
vour to keep as regular a heat as possible,
which ought not to exceed sixty degrees, or
thereabouts, as a greater heat is very apt to
prove unsuccessful, not only to peaches and
nectarines, but also to most other kinds of tree
fruits.

Air should be admitted only a little, at the
early part of the season, and that chiefly in the
middle of the day, while the sun is out, and in
greater proportions, as the spring and warm
weather advances, as the power of the sun will
sometimes increase the heat very considerably ;
then also increase the admissions of air by
degrees, until the middle of the day, after

TEACH HOUSE FOR FORCING. 243

which the diminution should be also equally
gradual.

Watering will likewise be necessary to the
borders, when they appear dry, and sometimes
over the trees, before the bloom expands, and
also after the fruit is well set ; but during the
time the trees are in bloom, and the fruit setting,
no water should be given over the branches,
as that will prove very injurious to the setting
of the fruit ; but when the fruit begins to
swell, water may be applied over the branches,
once or twice a week, in fine weather, in a
gentle manner, with a syringe, or those in the
lower part of the house, through the fine rose
of a watering pot ; this should generally be
done of a morning, and with soft water, either
prepared, or from a pond, but rain water is at all
times to be preferred.

As the fruit advances in growth, and par-
ticularly towards maturity, allow a considerable
high heat from the sun, by large admissions in
the middle of the day, opening in the morning,
and shutting gradually, as before directed, as
the sun is highly essential, both for assisting

M2

244 FORCING HOUSE FOR CHERRIES.

the swelling and colouring of the fruit, and also
for producing a fine rich flavour ; by this prac-
tice, peaches and nectarines will ripen in the
greatest perfection, in May and June, and the
late sorts in July and August.

FORCING HOUSE FOR CHERRIES, WITH ITS
FURTHER USES.

Par. 37. — In large forcing establishments,
a house is allotted chiefly for forcing cherries,
and which is called the cherry house ; this
house may be constructed on the same principle
as the general forcing houses, and is generally
forced by fire heat, or hot water only ; and the
whole, or part of the bottom space, composed of
proper soil for planting the trees in ; formed
into one or more borders, ranged the long way
of the house, and the trees planted therein ; the
trees should be of an age for immediate bearing,
and some may be trained, and planted against a
trellis near the back wall, or the whole may have
round heads, with a moderate share of branches,
some dwarfs and others standards, planted in
rows across the house, placing the tallest behind

METHODS OF FORCING. 245

and lowest in front; and likewise along the front
may have dwarfs planted or brought in in pots.
Vines may also be planted inside or in a border
outside, and treated as directed in other forcing
departments. Refer to the proper paragraphs
for sorts recommended ; but I may here add,
that the May-duke is generally the most suc-
cessful, and ought to be planted more plentifully
than other sorts.

The cherry house is generally set in motion
(commencing moderately) about the end of Jan-
uary, or beginning of February ; and the direc-
tions given for the management of the peach
house will mainly apply to this, and ripe fruit may
be expected about the end of April, or beginning
of May, also many other useful articles may be
produced in the house, in all vacancies on

shelves, or elsewhere.

/

OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO THE SEASONS,
AND METHODS, OF FORCING GENERALLY.

Par. 38. — Having given such instructions for
forcing generally, which I know to be safe, and
in the most clear manner my judgment could

246 METHODS OF FORCING.

dictate, and which from a long and extensive
practice, and close application, has convinced
me, that what I have recommended, if pro-
perly attended to, will prove successful ; I will
conclude this part of the subject, by a few
general remarks thereon, and which may be
considered applicable, or nearly so, to the
whole.

The most general time for commencing
forcing, is from the middle of January to the
beginning of February, although it is some-
times commenced earlier, and sometimes later ;
when the forcing is to be assisted with a bark
bed, it is an advisable plan, to make the bed
a week, or ten days, or a fortnight before the
fires are commenced ; in some cases, dung hot-
beds are substituted ; these should also be made
ten or twelve days before the fires, to get
settled, or to allow the rank steam to eva-
porate, then add ten or twelve inches of tan
at top, or in the absence of tan, some light
sifted soil, in which to plunge pots, or for raising
articles therein. When the fires are once
commenced, either for flues or pipes, they

METHODS OF FORCING. 247

should be continued every evening, and kept up
till nine or ten o'clock, and left in such a manner,
that it will continue to warm the house durin^
the night; but this part must greatly depend
on the nature of the weather, and the season of
the year ; and where there is no bark, or other
hotbed, the heat of the flues or pipes should be
revived in the morning, , and continued mode-
rately throughout the day ; and where there
is a bark bed, this will also be necessary on
cold mornings, and likewise all day, in severe
weather; as the season advances, the thermo-
meter should be constantly watched, and the
artificial heat be increased by fire, or decreased
by air according to the power of the sun, thereby
keeping a moderate kind heat, which is not
only desirable, but absolutely required for tree
fruits; the standard for artificial heat being
sixty degrees, and ought not to vary after the
fruit is set, more than four or five degrees under
or over

The vinery is altogether different, the house
may be kept at a much higher temperature,
particularly when they are required to be

248 WATERING IN THE

brought forward very early ; in that case, the
heat may be kept up to the height of the pine
stove ; but where vines are allowed in the peach
house, the same heat must content for them,
which is allowed for the peach trees.

The fires should be continued as above di-
rected, till April or May, or longer, to be
guided generally by the ripening of the fruit ;
and, as the weather proves more or less favour-
able ; and thus, as the season advances, and
the power of the sun increases, lessen by
degrees the heat produced by the pipes or
flues.

ADMITTING AIR, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR
WATERING IN THE DIFFERENT FORCING
HOUSES.

Par. 39. — As the admission of air, and a
proper mode of watering is of considerable
importance in all kind of forcing, I will make
a few observations thereon, being satisfied that
many failures take place through neglect, or a
want of knowledge on the subject.

From the commencement of the forcing, I

DIFFERENT FORCING HOUSES. 249

would recommend fresh air to be admitted into
the house every day, unless the frost is in-
tensely severe, or the air so saturated with fog,
or otherwise filled with humidity, that it is
really dangerous ; otherwise, if it is but five
minutes in the day, with merely a crack here
and there at the top, to let out a little of the
confined air, it will be of service to the plants ;
and during the early part of the forcing, from
half an hour to an hour, or from that to two, in
the middle of the day, being guided by the
warmth of the external atmosphere, and em-
bracing as much as possible the opportunity
when the sun shines ; but still, at the early part
of the forcing, the air should be admitted spar-
ingly, by sliding open some of the glasses only ;
but, as the season advances, and the sun has
proportionate influence, so should the admis-
sion of air increase from eleven till two or three ;
and in very warm weather, and the power of
the sun is great, the house may be opened
earlier in the morning, and shut later in the
afternoon, and so be guided according to the

M5

250 PRUNING FRUIT TREES.

state of the weather, but always be sure to shut
close, whenever it turns suddenly cold.

Watering is another most essential thing to
be attended to, for much injury is often done to
the plants, through neglect, irregular, or im-
proper waterings ; the borders in the forcing
house, where the trees are planted, should-7 be
moderately watered when they appear dry, also
occasionally all over the trees, except while in
bloom ; for then it is apt to destroy the fructi-
fication, by preventing the proper action of the
farina ; but after the fruit is well set, repeated
waterings over the branches will be beneficial.
The above remarks will apply to tree fruits gene-
rally : likewise plants in pots, which may have
been introduced into the forcing house, they
should be watered very sparingly at first, but
the watering should always be repeated imme-
diately they appear dry; and as they advance
in growth, and particularly when coming into
bloom, they will require to be watered much
more copiously ; always use rain water for pre-
ference, and in the absence of that, use soft
pond water, and it is very desirable to have a

PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 251

tank, with the water kept about the heat of the
house ; for by using cold water, particularly in
very cold weather, it causes a great chill to the
trees and plants.

PRUNING FRUIT TREES IN FORCING HOUSES,
WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR TRAINING.

Par.40. — Pruning of fruit trees in the forcing
house, may be done any time after November,
till near the time for forcing ; but generally for
peaches, nectarines, &c., it is better to prune them
two or three weeks before the forcing is com-
menced; the methods usually adopted for pruning
in the open air, may serve as a guide for pruning
in the forcing house. I may here remark, for the
information of those who are accustomed to
prune peaches indiscriminately, by cutting back
all the young wood ; that some sorts, particularly
some of the finest varieties of French peaches,
and the best bearers, are not unusually covered
with bloom buds, nearly all up the young fruit-
bearing wood, without a leaf bud to cut to.

When such is the case, the shoots should not
be shortened, which is the general practice, for

252 PRUNING FRUIT TREES

the top bud of the shoot is sure not to be a
bloom bud. I scarcely need remark, that when
there is not a bud to shoot above the bloom,
although the fruit may set and swell till it gets
to a tolerable size, it will nevar come to perfec-
tion ; at the same time, by cutting back a
sufficient quantity of young wood, or the last
year's bearers, the body of the tree may always
be kept well supplied with bearing wood.

In the winter pruning, it is likewise necessary
to free the trees of some of the most unfruitful
wood, and such of the old that is unserviceable,
to make room for the young bearing wood ; and
I wish particularly to impress on the minds of
my readers, the necessity, I say absolute ne-
cessity, if you wish to preserve the health of the
trees, of removing all little dead snags, and take
care that your knife is sharp, and remove them
clean until you cut to a sound place ; for simple
as those little snags may appear, they frequently
cause the tree to canker, and the constitution
of the tree (if I may use the term) to become
diseased ; and if any blister or canker appears,
do not fear to use the knife, and make it clean

IN FORCING HOUSES. 253

till you come all round to sound bark ; if the tree,,
could speak it would thank you.

Having retained a sufficient quantity of the
one year old shoots on all parts of the tree, after
cutting away the ill placed, let them be trained
at regular distances to the trellis : such of the
peaches and nectarines which it may be thought
advisable to shorten the young shoots of, that
are left for bearing, the usual practice is to cut
them back about one-third ; but it is not custo-
mary to shorten plums, cherries, nor figs, but as
cherries and plums will bear for several years
on the same branches, upon small side spurs,
these, at the winter pruning, must not be removed,
at least as long as they continue fruitful, and at
this season, retain some young well- placed
shoots, to supply the places of the old as they
decline bearing.

The summer pruning of trained fruit trees,
particularly peaches and nectarines, rests chiefly
with preserving a sufficient quantity of the most
regular side young shoots for fruiting the ensu-
ing year, and the removal of the foreright shoots ;
and those which are ill placed, and all such
which appear superfluous, and of improper strong

254 BLIGHTS IN FORCING HOUSES.

growth; this pruning is best performed when
the shoots are about five or six inches long ; then
let the young shoots which have been retained
be trained in a regular manner to the trellis, &c.,
and the training be repeated as the growth of
the trees may render it necessary during the
summer.

BLIGHTS AND INSECTS ON TREES, HOW TO PRE-
VENT AND DESTROY IN FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 41. — Forcing houses are at times infest-
ed with small insects of various kinds, and the
fruit trees are at times seriously attacked,
blighting the leaves, and causing them to
crumple and shrivel, and the young shoots also
frequently become stunted, which often proves
very prejudicial to the fruit if not early attended
to, for when they appear, they generally increase
very fast.

The most effectual way to prevent and destroy
them is by smoking the house with tobacco ; this
may be done with fumigating bellows, or occa-
sionally smoking the house thoroughly with a
smoking pot, with burning tobacco therein,
having a hole in the side to blow the tobacco

FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING. 255

with bellows, in this way a strong thick smoke
can be produced, which will greatly assist in
destroying the vermin ; but as many will fall to
the ground apparently lifeless from suffocation,
but will afterwards recover and ascend the trees
again, a tolerable watering over the borders,
immediately after the smoking, will effectually
destroy them, also by syringing the trees it will
dislodge those which may not have fallen ; this
system of smoking is by no means to be dreaded,
on the contrary, it is beneficial to the trees, and
if occasionally performed even in the absence of
insects, it will assist the growth of the trees, and
also promote the swelling of the fruit, and with
proper care and attention the house may always
be kept free, at least sufficiently free from in-
sects, to prevent them from being seriously
injurious.

THE SEASONS THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF
FRIT1T GENERALLY ATTAIN MATURITY IN
FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 42. — By the foregoing practice in
forcing fruit trees, the different varieties may
be expected to ripen in the following order.

256 FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING.

Grapes, by early and powerful forcing, some
may be expected in May, and a general crop
in June and July, and the late kinds in Au-
gust.

Peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs and plums,
in May, June and July ; cherries in April, and
early in May; strawberries in March, and a
succession continued, according as they are
introduced into the house.

TREATMENT OF FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING.

Par. 43. — After the forcing season is over*
and the fruit gathered, the trees ought to be
exposed to the open air as much as possible, by
removing the whole of the moveable lights both
above and below, to give them the benefit of the
sun, air, rains, dews, &c., during the remainder
of the summer and autumn, this will harden the
young shoots, and tend greatly to strengthen
the trees for 'the next forcing season.

CHAPTER III.

Contains directions for growing Melons, with instructions
how to raise early Strawberries ; also many useful and
ornamental plants in forcing houses.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 44. — In the last chapter I have laid
down rules for the forcing all the leading vari-
eties of tree fruits, with such illustrations and
comments, which I think will render the practice
easy to every one who has any pretensions to
gardening, and which rules, if properly carried
out, will be found to produce the most successful
results. It is now my intention, in order to
render this work as complete as possible, in

258 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

every thing relating to forcing fruits, to furnish
directions for growing melons ; likewise the most
approved methods of forcing strawberries; to
which will be added some useful remarks, for
forcing ornamental plants, in the various depart-
ments of the forcing houses ; with directions for
raising many useful articles for culinary pur-
poses.

NATURE OF THE MELON PLANT, ITS CULTURE,
AND DESCRIPTION OF THE FRUIT.

Par. 45. — The melon plant, which is one of the
most tender belonging to our kitchen garden, is
an annual of slender trailing growth, and upon
these long slender herbaceous vines, they produce
fruit remarkable for its size and richness of fla-
vour ; indeed by many it is held in quite as great
estimation as the pine ; therefore an account of
its culture will not be contrary to the spirit of
this work, and more particularly as the melon
cannot be brought to anything like perfection
without the assistance of hotbeds ; and by the
directions which will be hereafter given, the
fruit can be produced in perfection in May and

NATURE OF THE MELON PLANT, &C. 259

June, and supplies continued till October and
November.

The plants are always raised from seed ; those
required for the early crop are sown in winter,
and for the main crops in spring ; the plants
must be raised in a hotbed, which is generally
done in a small one first, where they remain till
two, three, or four inches high, when they will
be of a proper age for transplanting into the
large melon frames, where they are to remain
for fruiting ; but where there is a hothouse with
a bark bed, or other sufficient heat to raise the
plants in, if a small dung hotbed is not wanted
early for other purposes, the seed may be sown
therein, and be transplanted direct into the
fruiting frames; but the general methods will
be found more fully explained in the following
paragraphs, under their proper heads.

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF THE MELON, WITH
OBSERVATIONS.

Par. 46. — All the varieties of melons may be
considered exotics of very tender nature ; of
these, the Romana is one of the earliest and

260 VARIETIES OF THE MELON, &C.

most plentiful bearers, and is, although small, a
very good fruit. The cantaleupe melons are
highly esteemed, the flavour being very superior,
and greatly prized by those fond of this fruit
for their extreme richness ; they grow large, of
a roundish form, and deeply ribbed; and al-
though they do not bear so plentifully as some,
they are generally preferred for the principal
crops for private use; the green flesh, the smooth
green rind, and the common ribbed, are also
very fine, and the above may be considered
equal, if not superior, to the other varieties for
general culture; yet, as others have their ad-
mirers, I will give a list of names of those
usually cultivated :

Cantaleupe Melon Green-fleshed Melon

Rock Cantaleupe Melon Green Smooth Melon

Silver Cantaleupe Melon Oblong Ribbed Melon

Black Rock Cantaleupe Melon Netted Plain Melon

Orange Cantaleupe Melon Netted Ribbed Melon

Early Romana Melon Large White Melon.

The fruit of the different varieties of melons
varies greatly both in size and appearance, being

SOILS FOR GROWING MELONS. 261

round, oblong, oval, smooth- rind, depressed,
ribbed, netted, carbuncled, mostly red fleshed,
and some green fleshed, &c.} the whole of the
varieties producing a rich and highly esteemed
table fruit when ripe ; the young green fruit is
also used for mangoes.

SOILS PROPER FOR GROWING MELONS.

Par. 47. — The compost for growing melons in,
should be prepared in the autumn, prior to its be-
ing used, or at least some considerable time before
it is wanted, in order that it may be well mixed,
and in proper condition to receive the young
plants; for this purprse take half or two-thirds
of rich light surface loam, dug fresh from a com-
mon or pasture field, the remainder of thorough-
ly rotted dung from old hotbeds, and rich garden
mould, in about equal proportions; or if a part
is rotten cow-dung, it will prove beneficial: those
should be all thoroughly mixed together in a
heap or ridge where it is exposed to the sun,
rains, &c., turning it over three or four times to
well break, and cause it the more effectually to
mix ; and before placing it in the frames, take

262 PREPARING DUNG, &C.

such quantity as may be required into a shed
under cover for two or three weeks, that it may
dry to a proper moisture for the hotbed.

PREPARING DUNG, &C. FOR THE HOTBEDS FOR
RAISING MELONS.

Par. 48. — Hotbeds for growing melons are
generally made of stable dung, being the most
easily obtained ; of which prepare a sufficient
quantity in proper time to have it in good order
by the time the beds are required to be made,
choosing that which is fresh and in a lively,
steaming state, the long and short mixed up
together in a heap, letting it lay for a week ;
then turn it over, and well mix it, and in about
another week turn it over again. By this process
it will properly ferment, discharge the rank
steam, and become of a proper temperature to
be made into a bed ; and when the heat of the
bed declines, and linings are required, prepare a
sufficient quantity from time to time for that
purpose also. Melons are likewise grown very
successfully in bark hotbeds. These beds retain a

SEED PROPER FOR SOWING. 263

long regular heat, choosing the tan in the same
state as described for bark-bed pits.

SEED PROPER FOR SOWING.

Par. 49. — With regard to the seed of melons,
it should be saved from the earliest and finest
fruit, which has thoroughly ripened ; and when
three or four years old at the time of sowing, it
generally proves more successful, as the plants
raised from new seed grow very luxuriantly, in
which case the fruit seldom sets so soon or freely
as on those plants raised from old seed.

OBSERVATIONS ON RAISING MELONS IN DIFFERENT
WAYS ; THE TIMES FOR SOWING THE SEED ;
REMARKS ON WATERING, AND SEASONS OF
RIPENING.

Par. 50. — Speaking generally of the culture
of melons, they are raised chiefly in three prin-
cipal crops, although, if preferred, they may be
sown more frequently, at two or three weeks
interval. The first is sown in January or Fe-
bruary, from which, ripe fruit may be expected in
May and June, and sometimes as early as April;

264 OBSERVATIONS ON RAISING MELONS, &C.

but for a more general and certain crop, to be
also cultivated in frames under lights, the end of
February or beginning of March for sowing the
seed proves the most successful, and the fruit
will come to perfection about July and August.
The third and last crop should be sown late in
March or beginning of April, for planting out
under hand-glasses, to produce ripe fruit in Au-
gust, September, and October.

When the plants have grown too large for the
hand-glasses, (in the absence of frames with
lights,) oiled paper frames may be placed over
them, by which means good crops of late melons
are produced with proper management, which
will hereafter be fully explained.

Melons in any stage of their growth are by no
means fond of excessive moisture, neither to the
earth or over the plants. It will cause the roots
to rot, and frequently the main stem ; it will
likewise prevent the young fruit from setting
kindly, and much wet will considerably dete-
riorate the flavour of the fruit, if applied while
ripening. Consequently they ought to be kept
at all times in a very moderate state of moisture.

HOTBEDS FOR RAISING MELONS, &C. 265

METHOD OF MAKING HOTBEDS FOR RAISING
MELON PLANTS ; WITH THEIR MANAGE-
MENT THEREIN.

Par. 51. — Having ready for sowing such kinds
of melon seed as may be intended for the earliest
crop, make a small hotbed for a one light frame,
(a larger if required for other purposes,) making
the bed with fresh stable dung, about three feet
or three feet and a half high. Immediately
place on the frame and glasses, which will defend
the bed from the weather and draw up the heat
sooner than when left open, giving vent to the
rank steam, by raising the glass or glasses at
the upper or north end. When the bed is of
a proper temperature, place the soil or compost
on the top of the dung inside the frame, about
five or six inches thick. Then fill two or three
garden pots or more (according to the number
of sorts intended to be sown) with the same sort
of earth, and plunge them a little way into the
earth of the bed, sowing the seed therein, and
lightly covering it ; likewise sow some seed in
the earth of the bed, in order to embrace a

N

266 HOTBEDS FOR RAISING MELONS,

double chance of success ; but the sowing in
pots should in no case be omitted, in case the
heat of the bed should prove too violent ; and if
that should happen, the pots are easily drawn up
farther from the dung, or if necessary, quite out
of the earth.

When the forcing of cucumbers has com-
menced, there will be no necessity for preparing
a hotbed for raising the melon plants, as the
same mean temperature is suitable to both ; and
the seed may be sown either in the earth of the
cucumber bed, or in pots plunged therein at the
back part of the frame. In either case, when the
plants have come up three or four days, and
while in the lobes or seed leaf, transplant (or
what is more generally termed prick) them into
small pots, two plants in each, and then plunge
the pots in the earth of the hotbed ; or some
may be pricked into the earth of the bed, but
they are much better in pots, as they are ready
for turning out with the whole ball into the
frames, where they are intended for fruiting. But
while in the seedbed be careful to cover the
glasses with mats every night, admitting air

WITH THEIR MANAGEMENT. 267

every day more or less as the weather will per-
mit, by raising the glasses behind, from a mere
crack to a quarter of an inch, an inch or more,
in proportion to the heat of the bed arid external
atmosphere ; shutting close when extremely cold,
but in moderate weather shut by degrees. Should
there be a great steam and strong heat, which
is sometimes the case in the early part after the
bed is made, a small portion of air may be
admitted during the night, to give vent to the
rank steam, covering the aperture with a garden
mat, hanging over it from the top of the glasses.
This same precaution may be observed in de-
fending the bed in the day time, when the steam
and heat may render it necessary to admit fresh
air, in exceeding cold weather.

When the heat of the bed has become mo-
derate, keep the glasses close at night, but give
air in favourable weather daily. Cover the
glasses every evening about sun-set with garden
mats, one, two, or three thick, according to the
heat of the bed, uncovering in the morning, and
when the earth appears dry, give light waterings;
and be sure in the early stage of the bed to

N 2

268 HOTBEDS FOR EARLY

examine it daily, and if the heat appears too
violent, immediately draw up the pots, until the
burning heat has subsided.

The plants may remain in the first or nursery
frame till they have two or three rough leaves
two or three inches broad ; then they will be of
proper growth for ridging out into the main
fruiting hotbed.

MAKING THE FRUITING HOTBEDS FOR EARLY
AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS; WITH
THEIR MANAGEMENT THEREIN COPIOUSLY
LAID DOWN.

Par. 52. — We next proceed to prepare the
hotbed for fruiting the melons : this should be
made a week or more before finally transplanting
the plants, or what is more generally termed
ridging out for fruiting, in order that the bed may
be of a proper temperature to receive them.

The bed should be made on the level ground,
about three feet and a half high, of stable dung
properly prepared, as before directed, and of
such dimensions, horizontally, as the size and
number of frames will require ; but three light

AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 269

frames are to be preferred for growing melons to
maturity. As soon as the bed is made a proper
height with the dung, and regularly levelled,
place on the frame lights ; and when the violent
heat has subsided, which will generally be the
case from about a week to ten days, bring in the
earth, (that having been already prepared as
before directed,) laying it in a round heap under
the centre of each light, about a foot or fifteen
inches thick, covering the other part of the bed
only about three inches deep, until the heat has
become more moderate.

When the hills or ridges of earth have become
warm, either on the same or following day, put in
the plants in the middle of the hill, removing
them from the pots with the balls entire about
the roots. Place two plants under each light,
but some consider one plant sufficient in each
hill, and particularly of the cantaleupe. When
planted, give a little water round the extremities
of the fibres, and then close the frames to draw
up the heat ; but when the steam begins to get
strong, raise the lights at the back half an inch
or more to give vent, and in the same manner

270 HOTBEDS FOR EARLY

give air daily to the plants ; or sometimes it is
also necessary, in the early stage of the bed to
admit a little air during the night, if the heat is
violent and the steam strong ; but in this case
defend the aperture, by letting a garden mat
hang over it from the top, and this will also be
requisite in the day time, when the winds are
cold and cutting; but when the heat is moderate,
the frames may be kept close at night. Cover
the glasses every evening about sunset with one
or more mats thick, as the heat of the bed and
the atmosphere will dictate.

It is a very essential thing in early hotbed
forcing to lay dry litter round the sides, tolerably
thick, which will greatly defend the beds from
snow and heavy rains, and the inclemency of the
weather generally. This will greatly prevent
their chilling, and the heat from suddenly de-
clining, which is often the case when this is not
done, and frequently proves very injurious to the
plants, and sometimes ends in the loss of the
crop ; but by the above precautionary protection
in an early stage of the hotbed, the heat will
continue regular, and of much longer duration.

AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 271

When the bed has become of a regular kind
heat, bring in more earth, laying it first near the
sides of the frame to get warm ; then apply it
round the hills where the plants are, likewise
adding more on the surface of the bed between
the hills, and by two or three earthings, by
degrees the whole should be earthed up even
with the top of the hills, and at each earthing
press the mould down close ; for by having the
soil made tolerably firm and of the depth recom-
mended, it will be sufficient to nourish the plants
without much watering, particularly when the
soil is of a loamy nature. Nevertheless, moderate
waterings will be necessary at times, when the
earth becomes dry ; it should be given generally
at a distance from the plants, but this should be
very moderate indeed while the fruit is setting,
and also while ripening, for while in a young
state, if watered too abundantly, it will cause the
fruit to turn yellow and decay, and when ap-
proaching to maturity, it will retard its ripening
and injure its flavour ; therefore never water over
the fruit while in a very young state, but apply
the water between the runners of the plants,

272 HOTBEDS FOR EARLY

pouring it out of the spout of the watering-pot
on a flat piece of tile, that it may not disturb the
earth, and the tile will cause the water to spread
more over the surface. But after a full crop is
thoroughly set and in an advanced state of
growth, occasional waterings may be given mo-
derately over the plants ; but never water over
the plants in the heat of the day, while the sun
shines powerfully, but either in the morning
about eight or nine o'clock, or in the afternoon
after three. When the runners are pushing
forth, they should be stopped by pinching, or
cutting off the tops of the shoots, to promote the
strength of the plants, and to furnish more run-
ners, and the new runners should also be stopped
at the third joint, to get a further supply, to fill
the bed with bearing vines ; and as they advance
in growth, train them in proper order over all
parts of the bed.

It will be requisite to admit air every day,
except in exceedingly cold weather, by tilting
the glasses at the back, in proportion to the heat
of the bed and the temperature of the atmos-
phere, closing the lights by degrees in the after-

AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 273

noon ; and all times when the weather changes
very cold, shut close, and also every night, and
more particularly when the bed is an advanced
state.

The covering the glasses with mats by night
may be continued, more or less, till the middle
of June, to be guided by the season and the
temperature of the weather, uncovering in the
morning about sun-rise, or as soon after as
convenient. In hot weather, when the sun
appears too powerful for the plants, so as to
cause them to flag, afford them a slight shade,
by laying over the glasses a thin mat, or a little
light litter for about three or four hours, during
the great heat of the sun, in the middle of the
day.

Should the plants become very crowded in the
frame, by the vines becoming too numerous,
thin them out by cutting away some of the weak
unfruitful runners. Likewise remove decayed
clusters of male bloom, but not the fresh blos-
soms, while the fruit is setting ; and thin out
the old leaves, and always remove those which
become decayed.

N 5

HOTBEDS FOR EARLY

Also should the plants press against the glass,
and the frame become much crowded towards
the end of June or beginning of July, the frame
may be raised at bottom a few inches, to give
more room above.

When the fruit has advanced to a tolerable
size, it is requisite they should be turned occa-
sionally, which will cause them to be more
regular in their growth, and assist the fruit in
ripening more equally.

It is generally necessary to continue the
glasses constantly on the frames till the middle
or end of June, but should be raised high in hot
weather. After this time they may be taken
off occasionally on dry days, but should be put
on generally at night ; likewise the lights should
always be kept on in wet or other unfavourable
weather.

The later crops of melons should be protected
by keeping the glasses for the most part over
the plants, giving plenty of air in warm weather,
and about the middle or end of August, (par-
ticularly if the season is wet and cold,) it may
be requisite to line the frame and bed round

AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 275

with dry litter or waste hay ; and if there is any
fruit left, which is not expected to ripen till
October, give an additional lining of hot dung
about the middle of September. At this late
season it will greatly assist the ripening of the
fruit, by promoting a moderate bottom heat.

MANNER OF TREATING MELONS WHEN IN
BLOOM.

Par. 53. — When the plants come into bloom,
a good heat should be kept, and as regular as
possible ; this will greatly assist the setting of
th.e fruit. Also, at the early season of the plants
blooming, when bees and other winged insects
are scarce among the flowers, impregnating the
female blossoms with the male, generally proves
of considerable service, by causing the fruit to
set well, and swell off immediately. This is
done in the same way that is usually practised
in growing- early cucumbers, by taking a fresh
male flower, commonly called the false blossom,
on the same day, both the male and female
expand ; take away the petal or flower leaf of the
male bloom, leaving only the central part, which

^76 TREATMENT OF MELONS IN BLOOM.

contains the farina ; apply this to the centre of
the female, to discharge some of the farina
therein, and then withdraw the male part.

The male and female flowers are both pro-
duced on the same plant, the female always
showing the young fruit at the base of the
flower. As the fruit sets and begins to swell,
either pinch off the runner to the third joint, or
turn the point of the runner inwards. This will
assist the young fruit to swell, by directing the
nourishment of the plant more effectually to it ;
also as the fruit sets and begins to swell, place a
piece of tile underneath each, to keep it from
rotting, which, if neglected, it will frequently do,
through the moisture arising from the earth ;
and if one or two fruit can be procured on each
runner it will be sufficient, particularly when
fine fruit is the prevailing consideration.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR RENEWING THE HEAT OF
THE HOTBED BY LININGS.

Par. 54. — It is necessary, in all stages of the
hotbed, to occasionally examine the heat, with
the view to support a proper temperature ; there-

RENEWING HOTBED HEAT BY LININGS. 277

fore, when the heat has declined considerably,,
it should he renewed as speedily as possible, by
applying linings of hot dung to the sides, about
one foot and a half wide, and three or four inches
above the dung of the bed, to allow for settling ;
but it is by no means a desirable plan to raise
the linings much higher than the dung of the
bed, for that is apt to burn the earth within the
frame ; the steam also will draw into the frame,
and frequently proves injurious, by scalding the
leaves, and perhaps kill the plants. This may
be prevented, by laying several inches of earth
on the top of the linings, which will not only
confine the steam, but keep the heat in below.
In most cases the back part is lined first, and the
front in about a week after, unless the heat of
the bed has become very much reduced : in that
case, the lining had better be completed at
once.

It will be necessary to examine the linings in
their early state, to find whether the heat is too
violent, for that may communicate to the bed
and earth, and scorch the roots of the plants ;
therefore should such by chance take place,

278 REMARKS RELATIVE TO MELONS.

remove the upper part of the linings, or the
whole if necessary, for a day or two, and then
apply them again more moderately.

By this practice of renewing the linings as the
old becomes decayed, a constant regular heat
will be supported till June, which is essential,
both for the growth of the plants and the swell-
ing of the fruit.

REMARKS RELATIVE TO MELONS WHILE
RIPENING.

Par. 55. — The maturity of melons will appear
in different ways; — by the full size of the fruit,
and in some kinds by changing yellow ; but all
the varieties impart a powerful rich odour ; also
at times the stalk, joining the base of the fruit,
will crack open, apparently ready to separate
from it ; — all these appearances denote that the
melons have arrived to a sufficient state of
maturity for gathering, which should be done
before the fruit is over ripe. Cut with it most
of the stalk, which is attached to the fruit ;
or if there is no other fruit growing above on
that vine, it is usual to cut a small piece of the

LATE CROPS OF MELONS. 279

runner also. In the morning, before the heat of
the day, is the most preferable time for cutting
the melons, while they are cool and fresh, as
they are considered to eat with a more rich and
agreeable flavour : lay them in a cool dry place,
till they are required for table.

If melons are cut before too ripe, they will
keep good for several days, when any particular
occasion may render it desirable.

LATE CROPS OF MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES,
ETC.

Par. 56. — Good late crops of melons may be
produced in August, September, and October,
in fine dry seasons, by being ridged out on hot-
beds, under hand-glasses, raising the plants in a
frame hotbed, by sowing the seed in March
or beginning of April, where they should remain
three or four weeks, till they have produced two
or three rough leaves. Then at the end of April
or beginning of May, ridge them out on large
hotbeds prepared for the purpose under hand-
glasses, at three or four feet apart, along the
middle of the bed. About the end of May, or

280 LATE CROPS OF MELONS

beginning of June, when the plants have filled
the glasses, they must be raised three or four
inches upon props, for the vines to run over the
bed.

These crops of melons may consist of any of
the varieties; but the common ribbed, oblong
ribbed, netted, and the Romana, may be mostly
depended on for plentiful crops, the plants being
treated in a similar way to the directions given
in the paragraph for the early crop.

The hotbeds for these late crops may either
be made in trenches or on the level ground, but
those made in April or the beginning of May it
will be advisable to make on the level ground, as
the heat may decline in three or four weeks ;
arid if cold weather should ensue, it may be
necessary to line the beds, to revive the heat, and
by this plan they may be lined from the bottom.

The treatment of the surface of the bed to
be nearly the same as directed for early forcing,
both as to the hills or ridges for planting the
plants in, and also as to filling up the remainder
of the bed to the level of the hills by degrees ;
put the glasses on the hills, and when the earth

UNDER HAND-GLASSES, &C. 281

is warm, put in the plants, removing them from
the pots with the balls entire, with two plants in
each, give them a moderate watering, and put
down the glasses and shade them for a few days
until they have made fresh roots, after which,
raise the glasses a little on the south side to give
air, but keep them close at nights, and cover the
glasses and also the bed every night with thick
garden mats, which ought to be continued till
the middle of June ; the plants will require oc-
casional waterings moderately in tine weather,
and when the glasses have become crowded,
they must be raised, and the runners trained out
on the surface of the bed in regular order.

When the beds are made in trenches or pits,
dig them out three or four feet wide, and two
feet deep, fill them up with the prepared hot
dung eight or ten inches above the surface,
plant the plants on ridges as before directed,
about twelve inches deep, and earth all over the
top of the bed, and also the sides to keep in the
heat, and so far extended, to make the beds six
feet wide ; and raising it till it is about a foot
thick all over the bed, or even with the top of

282 RAISING MELONS IN

hills; in the absence of any other covering, keep
the glasses over the centre of the plants, to de-
fend the main roots and stem from heavy rains,
&c.; as the fruit advances in growth, it would
be of advantage to place some of the best under
the glasses, or those at a distance may be
covered with spare glasses, especially when very
cold or wet weather is prevalent ; but if spare
frames with lights are at hand, about the middle
of August, and placed over these beds, it will
be by far a more effectual protection, and the
fruit will ripen sooner, and in greater perfection,
and towards autumn the glasses can be covered
with mats on cold nights.

RAISING MELONS IN OILED-PAPER FRAMES,
WITH DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE FRAMES.

Par. 57. — Fine crops of melons are produced
by growing them under oiled-paper frames ; the
plants being raised the same as directed for
hand-glasses, and the beds prepared in the
same way; they may either be covered with
hand-glasses till June, or in want of hand-
glasses the paper frames placed over them at

01 LED- PAPER FRAMES. 283

once. If first protected with hand-glasses,
when the glasses become filled with the runners,
remove the glasses, and place over the beds the
oiled-paper frames, there to remain during the
summer.

The frames are formed of thin slips of wood,
like pan-tile laths, or poles, similarly constructed
to the roof of a house or an archway, ten feet
long, by three and a half to four or five wide,
and two and a half to three feet high, with two
pannels made to open on one side with hinges.

The bottom of the frame is made of slight
wood-work, in which the small cross rafters are
fixed, a foot apart, either in a ridge form or
arched, and across these small rafters, pack-
thread, or strong twine is placed along the
frame lengthways, putting it round each rafter
about a foot apart, and others drawn across the
bed between the rafters, crossing or intersecting
the other lines, which will serve to strengthen
the rafters, and assist in supporting the paper;
then take some strong white demy paper, and
paste on the rafters in a regular and neat man-
ner, and when dry, brush the paper all over with

284 MELONS IN OILED-PAPER FRAMES.

linseed oil ; this may be done with a soft paint-
ing brush, using the oil on the outside only, and
that but lightly; when this has become thorough-
ly dry, the frames will be fit for use.

Although the oiled-'paper will be sufficiently
water-proof to resist the rain, and keep off the
cold; it will form an agreeable shade for the
plants, during the scorching rays of the sun in
the height of summer, and through which pro-
tection the plants thrive exceedingly, and pro-
duce good crops of fruit, from the end of July
till the beginning of October. After the frame
has been placed over the plants, admit air every
fine day by opening the side pannels of the
frame, or if no pannels were made to open, raise
the frame a few inches at bottom, and as occa-
sion may require, give moderate waterings when
the earth is dry, but be very moderate while
the fruit is setting and ripening, for the reasons
assigned for early crops.

I may here remark that in very heavy rains
or hail storms, which sometimes occur in the
height of summer, it will be advantageous to
spread mats over the frames, not only to pre-

GROWING MELONS BY BARK-BED HEAT. 285

serve them from damage, but also to defend the
bed as much as possible in very unfavourable
weather; and by proper attention to growing late
melons by this practice, not only fine crops are
obtained, but the fruit (which for the most part
will ripen in August and September) will also
be of very good flavour. When melons are
wanted for mangoes, they should be gathered
while green, about a quarter or half-grown, and
should be taken from the late crops, selecting
those which are not likely to ripen.

GROWING MELONS BY BARK-BED HEAT.

Par. 58. — Melons grown by bark hotbed
heat, are generally raised in very good perfec-
tion, sometimes superior and with less trouble
than those grown on dung hotbeds, and more
particularly for general crops, such as are
planted in February, March, or April, as the
heat of the bark is of that kind, regular nature,
and also so lasting, not being subject to heat
violently, or decline suddenly like dung hotbeds,
but will continue a moderate heat for two or
three months, and the degree of heat produced

286 GROWING MELONS BY

by the bark is exceedingly well adapted to tbe
nature of melons.

The beds for this purpose must be made in a
pit; or in a case, which may be made of post and
planking, for the bark being of a loose nature,
cannot be so conveniently formed into a bed
without; the best plan is to make them of bricks
and mortar, sunk about one-third in the ground,
being in the clear in depth about three feet in
front, by four behind, the width, that of a large
garden frame, to place on the top, or a frame
work made for the glasses, fitted to, and fixed
on the pit; in the latter case, the pit may be
sunk deeper, but in all cases melons ought to
have about a foot of earth in depth, placed on
the top of the hotbed.

Where a pit can be constructed with hot
water pipes, or fire-flues internally, it will be of
great advantage, by rendering moderate assist-
ance in severe weather, particularly after the
heat of the bed has considerably declined, but
such is not of so much importance except for
very early forcing; but for commencing in Feb-
ruary or early in March, it will be requisite that

BATIK-BED HEAT. 287

the bark should be fresh but for later forcing,
part of the waste bark from a hot-house, to the
extent of one-third or a half, may be mixed with
the new ; or in want of a sufficient quantity of
tan to make the bed with wholly, of the size
required, a part may be tan, and a part stable
dung j this may be made in a pit or without, as
the dung will keep the bed in proper form, and
the bark being mixed with the dung, the heat
will be more durable than that of a bed made
entirely of the latter.

The plants at all seasons, if practicable, ought
to have been previously raised, and of proper
growth, with two or three rough leaves, by the
time the principal hotbed for their reception is
ready, otherwise they will be deprived of the
advantages of the first and main heat of the
bed ; but if such cannot be the case, the seed
may be sown at once, where the plants are to
remain ; treat these beds as directed for the
other hotbeds, with regard to air, water, cover-
ing, shading, £c.

288 HOW TO PRESERVE MELON SEED.

HOW TO SAVE AND PRESERVE MELON SEED.

Par. 59. — To have good melon seed that will
keep, it is of importance to select it from well-
ripened fruit, and it is also preferable to save it
from the earliest, and those grown near the stein
of the plant, as the plants raised from such seed
generally prove more productive, and the fruit
set better than when saved from fruit grown on
an advanced part of the vine

When the melon is cut for eating, the pulp in
the centre, in which the seed is intermixed,
should be preserved, and the seed afterwards
washed clean from the pulp, then spread it a few
days to dry and properly harden; after which,
place each variety in separate packets, each
packet being carefully labelled with the name
of the sort, and date of the year written thereon,
then deposit it in any dry place until it is
wanted.

Seed saved, as above directed, will retain its
vegetative qualities for several years; and, as
I have before remarked, that it proves more
productive when three or four years old, at

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS, &C. 289

4

the time of sowing, than the new seed ; the
instructions I have given on this subject ought
to receive their due force with those melon
growers who have not themselves proved the
difference.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON THE GROWING OF
STRAWBERRIES.

Par. 60. — Strawberries, as a dessert fruit, de-
serve to be prominently noticed, it being gene-
rally admired for its delicious flavour, and as it
can be obtained by forcing earlier than other
fruits, it is a great acquisition for the dessert ;
and as it can be forced in every forcing depart-
ment, I think I shall not be trespassing by
giving rather a detailed account of its culture.

The strawberry may be brought to perfection
by forcing, three months or more before its na-
tural season for ripening in .the open ground,
particularly throughout the months of March,
April, and May, and some (although not with
so much success) much earlier ; therefore, where
there is convenience for forcing them in succes-

o

290 STRAWBERRIES FOR FORCING.

sion, they may be obtained by the following
rules until their natural season for ripening.

Although I have said that strawberries may
be brought to perfection in all forcing depart-
ments, it maybe as well to remark that the forcing
houses are the most convenient, (including the
pinery, vinery, peach- house, &c.,) more so, and
generally more successful than by forcing them
in hotbeds, at the same time I intend to lay
down the necessary rules for their general cul-
ture in every department of forcing.

DIFFERENT SORTS OF STRAWBERRIES PROPER
FOR FORCING.

Par. 61. — Many new varieties of strawberries
have been raised within the last few years which
have become celebrated, some for their size and
beauty, some for their great bearing, and some
have reached the character of being fine -fla-
voured; but being acquainted with the whole
of these new sorts of any note, I nevertheless
must give the preference for a general crop t
the old scarlet, being one of the earliest and
most successful forcers we have in cultivation,

STRAWBERRIES FOR FORCING 291

it being an excellent bearer, and the fruit of
superior quality; although I have said thus
much respecting this well-known fruit, yet there
are several other very fine flavoured strawberries
which ought to be cultivated both for their size
and beauty, and also for the sake of a variety
for table, particularly those which possess a rich
flavour; and as the under mentioned strawberries
will force successfully, they will form a fine col-
lection.

Keen's Imperial • Wilmot's Superb

Downton Roseberry

Alpine New Hautboy

The scarlet alpine is a plentiful bearer, both
on the main stool, and also on the early runners
of the former year; this strawberry, with the
old scarlet, are decidedly two of the best for
early forcing, and they produce a supply of long
continuance.

o 2

292 CULTURE OF STRAWBERRY PLANTS

MANNER OF RAISING AND CULTURE OF STRAW-
BERRY PLANTS INTENDED FOR FORCING.

Par. 62. — Strawberry plants for forcing should
for the most part be in pots, thirty-twos is the
size generally preferred for two years old plants ;
at this age they attain proper strength for forc-
ing; one year old runners are also sometimes
forced, which if not very strong, will succeed in
forty-eights; likewise three year old plants,
being the greatest age, they ought to be ad-
mitted into the forcing departments ; these ge-
nerally succeed best in twenty-fours.

The runners, when taken from the mother-
plants in summer, may be immediately planted
in pots, to remain till they are proper for forc-
ing, or some of the late runners may be planted
out in beds to remain till the following spring,
or early in autumn, when they should be taken
up with balls and potted, to get established by
the ensuing forcing season ; or for hotbed forcing
some may remain to be removed with balls
direct from the nursery beds, and be planted in
the earth of the hotbed.

INTENDED FOR FORCING. 293

When selecting the plants for forcing, take
them from healthy bearing beds in the open
ground, making choice of the first produced
runners of the year, which by nature takes root
in the ground at the joints ; the early runners
are generally of proper growth to detach for
planting about May or June; but this may be
done any time during the summer, or early in
autumn, but the sooner they are transplanted
the better; take them up with good roots, cut
of the runner part from the plant, and whether
planted in pots or beds, they ought to be placed
in a shady situation.

The soil best suited for planting strawberries
in pots, is light loam enriched with rotten dung,
or any rich garden mould ; if the plants are
not over large, place two in a pot, watering
them at planting, and continue to supply them
with repeated and plentiful waterings in dry
weather. As they put forth runners, cut them
off to strengthen the plants for fruiting; this
should be done both to those plants which are
considered of sufficient strength for forcing the
first year, and also those which are retained for

294 STRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR FORCING.

the second year, placing the plants on a warm,
border during the winter, or in a frame, to have
occasional protection in severe weather, this will
keep them in good condition for forcing.

If the plants have grown very strong in the
small-size pots, that they appear not likely to
have room to receive sufficient nourishment to
support them through their fruiting, previous to
removing them when they are to be forced, shift
them with their entire balls into larger pots,
from forty-eights to thirty-twos, or from thirty-
twos to twenty-fours, placing a little fresh earth
at the bottom of the pots, and fill up the sides
thoroughly. In January, or earlier, some plants
may be introduced, and a succession continued
throughout February, March, and April, accord-
ing as the forcing departments will admit.

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN THE PINERY.

Par. 63. — Where there is a pinery, or any
general hothouse continually in cultivation by
artificial heat, some pots of strawberries may be
brought in as early as December or January;
but about the end of January, and any time in

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN THE PINERY. 295

February, is a better time to bring in a plentiful
supply* as they generally prove much more suc-
cessful than those brought in earlier ; some may
be placed over the flues, (if heated by them,)
near the front and end glasses, on the front wall
of the bark-bed, or if room, some may be
plunged in the fore part of the bark-bed, which
will considerably assist in forwarding the fruit,
and also in any other convenient parts of the
house near the glass, and the different succes-
sions may be brought in at two or three weeks
interval, till the middle or end of April ; the
principal culture being, during the time they are
in the forcing-house, to give them frequent wa-
terings, not letting the earth get very dry, but
while in bloom apply the water to the earth only,
as watering over the blossom before the main
crop of fruit is set, may prove injurious to the
farina or pollen of the male, by which its fruc-
tifying properties may lose their proper effect in
impregnating the pistils of the female.

As the plants put forth their runners, cut them
off, in order to throw strength into the bloom
and fruit, some of which may be expected to

•296 FORCING STRAWBERRIES.

ripen in February, but in greater perfection and
more plentiful in March and April; and by
regular successions of plants, fine fruit may be
obtained till the supplies in the open ground,
about the end of May or beginning of June.

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN PEACH AND OTHER
FRUIT-TREE FORCING HOUSES, ETC., INCLUDING
VINERIES.

Par. 64. — Forcing houses for fruit trees are
admirably adapted for forcing strawberries, bring-
ing them to great perfection ; some may be in-
troduced as soon as the house is set in motion
by artificial heat, and a succession continued as
directed in the vinery ; and where there is a
bark bed some should be plunged therein, which
will forward them considerably ; and about the
end of January or beginning of February place
some forward near the glasses, also upon shelves
in different parts of the house and in any other
convenient situation, thus a supply may be con-
tinued until the season for ripe strawberries in
the open air.

FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 297

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN HOT- BEDS, WITH
USEFUL REMARKS.

Par. 65. — In the absence of the convenience
of hot-houses for producing early strawberries
they may be forced by hotbeds under frames
and lights, and they will come to tolerable per-
fection about April; these hotbeds may be
made of stable dung, or of tanner's bark ; if
convenient to make them of the latter, they are
to be preferred, as the heat is more steady,
kind; and durable, and generally proves more
successful; but the bark hotbed must have a
bricked pit, or a case of post and planking, to
contain the bark in, otherwise its loose texture
will make it inconvenient to form it into a bed.
The beds should be about three feet deep, width
according to the size of the frames, and length
to what extent may be required.

But a well constructed pit of brick- work,
about four feet deep in front, by five to six feet
behind, to admit of hot water pipes, or a flue
along the upper part at the back, or continued
all round above the top of the bark-bed, will

o 5

298 FORCING STRAWBERRIES

be very beneficial to assist occasionally in cold
weather, and more particularly when the heat
of the bed becomes low ; then it would prove
of great advantage to the plants; these beds
may be made any time, from the middle or end
of January, till about the middle of March, and
when the bark is of a proper moderate heat,
plunge the pots therein ; by this practice good
crops of early strawberries will be produced.

Dung hotbeds for forcing strawberries may be
made also from the end of January, in February,
or March, in the same manner as is usual for
making hotbeds of stable dung; set on the
frames and lights, and when the bed is of a
moderate heat, bring in the earth, and cover
the bed about six or seven inches deep, in which
to plunge the pots; or if not in pots, to plant
the plants in, which should be taken if possible
immediately from the nursery bed to that of the
hotbed, with as much ball about the roots as can
be preserved; after the bed is planted, and a
moderate watering given to the plants, put on
the glasses, and give vent to the steam arising
from the bed, then cover the glasses every night

IN HOTBEDS. 299

with mats, &c. ; and when the plants are in a
growing state, admit air daily when mild, and
more freely when the sun shines, and especially
when in bloom, and the fruit is setting. Support
the heat when it declines by linings of hot dung,
and treat the plants in every other respect as
directed for their culture in the hothouse.

If convenient to have ten or twelve inches of
bark to place on the top of the dung hotbed
instead of mould, to plunge the pots in, it will
prove of advantage to the crops. On the other
hand, when the plants are intended for the bark
pit without pots, mould should be placed on the
bark, about six inches thick, to receive the
plants ; although the plants will grow, and often
do tolerably well, by being planted in the bark.

When the plants have not been properly pre-
pared for forcing, as before directed, or not a
sufficiency for the purposes required, some plants
may be taken up from the natural beds in the
open ground, and be immediately potted, or
transplanted with balls direct in the hotbed.
Observe, in bark-bed forcing, should the heat
become very weak, take up the pots and fork up

300 FORCING STRAWBERRIES, &C.

the tan, which will revive the heat, arid then
replunge them immediately. As the plants
advance in growth, be careful to attend to the
watering. They will require a greater supply to
the earth while in bloom and the fruit setting ;
but when the fruit is ripening, very little should
given, in order to preserve the rich flavour of the
fruit.

Therefore in hotbeds, either of dung or tan,
supplies may be produced in succession, by in-
troducing the plants at different times, and by
occasional linings to the former, and forking up
the latter, the heat may be revived to produce
fruit, until the strawberries arrive at maturity in
the open ground ; and for the purpose of having
plants which may be depended on for fruiting
successfully, it is advisable to have fresh supplies
prepared for forcing, as formerly described, every
season, which will preclude the necessity of for-
cing the plants a second time, which seldom
proves so successful as fresh plants.

FORCING RASPBERRIES.

Par. 66. — The raspberry as a table fruit being

FORCING RASPBERRIES. 301

highly esteemed, and, when produced early,
highly appreciated as a variety, deserves to be
noticed, as they will produce good crops of early
fruit of tolerable flavour, by forcing. Any of the
varieties will force, but the double bearing, both
red and white, and the red Antwerp, generally
prove very successful.

The plants should be two or three years old,
having two, three, or four canes (young shoots
of the year) to each, and taken up from the
open ground, in the autumn previous to the
forcing, and potted in twenty-fours or sixteen
size pots, letting some of the earth remain about
the fibres : light rich loam or garden mould will
suit for potting them in. If potted early in Oc-
tober, they will take fresh root almost imme-
diately, which will greatly strengthen them by
the forcing season, and cause them to set their
fruit more freely, and likewise to become much
finer than when potted late in the season, or
immediately previous to forcing. The plants '
after potting should be placed in a sheltered
situation during the winter months, until they
are removed to the forcing house.

302 FORCING RASPBERRIES.

The peachery, or any other tree-fruit forcing
house, or the vinery, when not too powerfully
forced, will suit for forcing raspberries. The
most convenient part of the house for this pur-
pose, and where they will succeed well, is the
centre, where there is no bark pit, or trees
planted. Therefore in that case, in the centre
space of the house plunge the pots, in cross rows,
about fifteen inches plant from plant, and eighteen
row from row, the canes being loosely tied to-
gether with bass. The plants may be introduced
successfully about the beginning or middle of
February, or earlier, if thought proper, but this
fruit will have little or no flavour until the sun
has sufficient power to render assistance to the
ripening; and although we are subjected to
severe cutting winds in March, the sun generally
has great influence ; at the end of which month,
and throughout April and May, good fruit may
be obtained.

When the potting has been omitted, as directed
above, some plants may be taken up with as
much earth as will remain about the roots, and
be either potted immediately before forcing, or

FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 303

taken direct to the forcing house, and planted in
the earth of the house, when there is a space in
the centre vacant. Where there is no vacancy
for plunging the pots, some may be introduced
in convenient places in the lower part of the
house ; but they succeed decidedly better when
plunged, and more particularly when potted
early. •

RAISING KIDNEY BEANS IN FORCING -HOUSES,
ETC.

Par. 67. — Kidney beans can be brought for-
ward in any of the forcing departments, to be fit
for use in March, and a succession continued
till the crops in the open ground are fit to
gather, by commencing setting the seed in
January, when any forcing has commenced.

The earliest crops are generally raised in
twenty-fours (size pots) ; these should be filled
within an inch and a half of the brim (well shook
down) of rich light soil ; then set four or five
beans in each, and cover them over about an inch
thick with the same sort of soil, which should be
tolerably dry. Place them in the forcing house

304 FORCING KIDNEY BEANS.

near the glass, or in such a part as is most con-
venient. The seed will soon germinate, when a
moderate watering should be given, but not
before, but they will require frequent waterings
after the plants have come up ; and by planting
some in succession about every three weeks in
smaller pots, (forty-eights or thirty- twos,) three
or four bean* in each, and the plants placed close
together in any convenient part of the house, to
be coming forward while the more early crops
are arriving to maturity ; and when the plants
have come up one, two, or three inches high,
shift them into larger pots with their balls entire,
and give them an immediate watering. Likewise
some may be raised in the borders of the forcing
houses, in small drills an inch deep, either length
or cross ways the borders, placing* the beans
about two inches apart, earthing them over
regularly, and give waterings as directed for
those in pots. By this practice good crops may
be obtained throughout the spring, until full
crops succeed them in the open ground.

FORCING CUCUMBERS. 305

GROWING CUCUMBERS IN FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 68. — Cucumbers may be raised in the
vinery, the peach-house, or other forcing houses.
The plants should be raised by sowing the seed
in a hotbed of dung or bark, in December,
January, or February, and when the plants are a
few days old, while in the seed leaves, prick them
into small pots, (forty-eights,) three in each ;
and when they have formed their rough leaves
about twe inches broad, turn them out of the
pots with balls, and plant them into large ones,
or into narrow oblong boxes, the earth being
rich and fine, the same as is generally used for
frame cucumbers. Place them near the top
glasses behind, that they may not shade the
trees, &c. below ; as the plants advance in
growth, place sticks for them to run upon for
support, and give frequent waterings. When in
bloom, impregnate the female with the farina of
the male, by applying the centre of the flower
(after removing the outside flower leaf) of the
male; commonly called the false blossom, to the
centre of the female flower, which always has the

306 FORCING LETTUCES.

young fruit attached at the bottom of the flower.
This is only necessary in early forcing, while the
bees and other winged insects are scarce, par-
ticularly the bees, which, by flying from flower
to flower to collect honey, convey the farina of
the male blossoms to those of the female, which
causes the fruit to set more successfully. Al-
though the plants generally succeed better by
the above treatment, the seed may be sown in
large pots or boxes, to remain for fruiting ; by
this practice tolerably good early cucumbers are
sometimes produced. It is also advisable to sow
more seed occasionally, as failures will sometimes
happen to these tender plants by mere accident;
and by this precaution, if they are not quite so
early, the disappointment will not be so great as
entirely losing the early season.

EARLY LETTUCES IN FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 69. — Lettuces of different sorts, but par-
ticularly the white Cos, may be forwarded for
early use in forcing houses, by planting them in
the borders any time in winter ; but the most
successful way to have them in the best per-

FORCING PEAS AND BEANS. 307

fection in such places, is to transplant them from
warm borders or frames, with some earth to
their roots, in January and February, when the
forcing is commenced, when they will advance
to a tolerably good size, and with moderately
good hearts for early use.

PEAS AND BEANS IN FRUIT-TREE FORCING
HOUSES.

Par. 70. — Peas and beans may be brought
into bearing for early use in tree-fruit forcing
houses. The early frame peas and mazagan
beans are the sorts usually selected for this
purpose. Some may be sown in the borders of
the house in November, sowing them in drills a
distance from the trees ; likewise some may be
sown thick in frames, or on a warm border, for
transplanting into the borders of the house.
These may be sown late in October, or beginning
of November ; and by this early sowing the
plants get considerable strength by the forcing
season, and are generally more productive than
those sown thick in pots for transplanting. Ne-
vertheless, some may be sown in pots to be trans-

308 ARTICLES FOR CULINARY PURPOSES.

planted, if required, in November, December, or
January, in a hotbed, (or hothouse, if any in
motion,) to forward the plants by the forcing
season to an inch or two high, and then trans-
plant them into the borders of the fruit-tree
forcing house, as soon as the forcing is com-
menced, or before ; also some may be trans-
planted into pots, if any convenient front situation
can be afforded for them in the house.

Frequent waterings will be necessary, and
more so as they advance in bloom and the pods
begin to appear4; these may be expected to be
ready for gathering in April, and sometimes
sooner, from those raised very early.

RAISING EARLY, VARIOUS USEFUL ARTICLES FOR
CULINARY PURPOSES, IN FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 7J . — Various useful things may be brought
forward for early use, in the different forcing de-
partments, when convenient to afford them room,
such as green gooseberries for tarts, and currants
for the same, or some to ripen, also rhubarb for
the like purpose. Likewise many useful and

FORCING DIFFERENT VARIETIES, &C. 309

favourite herbs, such as mint, tarragon, tansey,
&c. &c., taking up the roots from the open
ground, which may be either introduced into the
forcing house in pots, or be planted in any con-
venient place on the borders or centre of the
house ; also small salading may be kept in
regular and constant supply, by frequent sowings
for that purpose. Chilis should likewise be
brought in for early green fruit, and also to
forward them for a main crop of ripe fruit ; and
any other articles which are likely to be wanted
should not be omitted.

OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING DIFFERENT VARIE-
TIES OF CHOICE FLOWERS IN FORCING HOUSES.

Par. 72. — Flowering plants of different varie-
ties, consisting of bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous-
rooted kinds, can also be successfully admitted
into forcing houses for early bloom, at any time
after the forcing has commenced, bringing in
some at a time, with a view to keeping up a
succession, the whole of which may be in pots,
or if preferred, some may be in small neat boxes,

310 FORCING DIFFERENT VARIETIES

made for the purpose, and neatly painted on the
outside, with holes at the bottom, according to
their size, to carry off the water, and filled with
such soil as is suited to the sorts intended to be
grown therein.

Amongst the numerous varieties which may
be brought into early bloom in forcing houses,
may be introduced occasionally many kinds of
greenhouse plants, also roses, including moss,
white Provence, (mark, I mean by white Provence
the old rose unique, or Grimwood's white Pro-
vence, the wood of which is of a short, stumpy
growth, on which the bloom comes amazingly
strong, large, and double, and when expanded,
of a beautiful white. I have named this, as it is
not generally known, even among florists, that
there is another sold under this name, which is a
very free grower, equal to the old cabbage rose,
but the bloom is by no means equal to the
original white Provence). — Rose de Meux, Pom-
pone, red and scarlet Provence, blush and
crimson china, &c. Likewise pinks, piccotees,
carnations, hyacinths, jonquils, dwarf tulips,

OF CHOICE FLOWERS. 311

polyanthus, narcissus, ranunculus, anemones,
bulbous and tuberous irises, stocks, raignionette,
balsams, &c. ; also many choice sorts of Ame-
rican plants, such as different varieties of rhodo-
dendrons, azalias, kalmias, andromedas, ledums,
daphnas, &c., with other flowering shrubs, con-
sisting of double and single dwarf almonds,
double blossom peach, double blossom cherry,
Siberian and Persian lilac, syringas, and honey-
suckles, with many other varieties of small growth,
which taste and fancy may dictate.

I would recommend all plants of a shrubby
nature to be well established in the pots, at least
to have become well rooted therein, before they
are brought into the forcing house; and although
I am not now writing a work on botanical cul-
ture generally, (if I may use the term,) yet I
think I may not here digress by observing that
American plants, particularly when forced, will
derive great benefit from placing some sheep
droppings round the top of the pot, about suffi-
cient to cover the surface, which, by the repeated
waterings, will greatly assist the plants, by the

312 FORGING DIFFERENT VARIETIES, &C.

juices being washed into the soil, and cause the
bloom to be much finer. The sheep dung may
be either removed or covered over with mould,
prior to the plants being removed to the conser-
vatory, or elsewhere, during the time of flowering.

THE END.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY BLA.TCH AND LAMPERT, GROVE PXACE, BROMPTOK.

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