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Fruit Recipes
A Manual of the Food Values of Fruits and Nine Hundred Different Ways of Using Them
By RILEY M. FLETCHER BERRY
Garden City N^w York
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1919
Copyright, 1907, by Doubleday, Page & Company
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All right $ reserved >
including that of translation into foreign languages,
including the Scandinavian
DEDICATED
TO
ALL MEN AND ALL WOMEN
INTERESTED IN FRUITS: AS SCIENTISTS-WHETHER IN THE LABORATORY, THE
KITCHEN, OR THE GARDEN; AS ARTISTS BY PROFESSION OR THOSE WHO
UNPROFESSIONALLY HAVE ARTISTIC APPRECIATION OF THIS TYPE
OF EARTH'S BEAUTY; AND TO THOSE WHO CLAIM SPECIAL
TRAINING IN NEITHER SCIENCE NOR ART BUT
SIMPLY AND THOROUGHLY ENJOY GOOD,
WHOLESOME COOKERY.
RILEY M. FLETCHER BERRY, The Orchard of Palms,
Orlando, Florida.
PREFACE
Daniel had good reason for his famous and witty after- dinner speech when he remarked to the lions, "After you, gentlemen, after you!" On the same principle prefaces are often postponed. But I hope that you will read this one before dining, that you may understand why such an anomaly as both a discussion of the food values of fruits and formulas for the practical preparation of fruit dishes should be offered men as well as women.
Whatever mental attitude one may hold in relation ta foods, whether one makes meat the chief article of diet or ex^ eludes it, or follows a middle course, one uses fruit as one does water: possibly as a luxury, possibly only because other people use it, but always to some degree (unless one be an Esquimau beyond even the reach of courageous Arctic berries), and always, just as surely, in lesser degree and with less appreciation of its real value than one should use it.
Difference of age, of climate, of occupation, or consti- tution make variation of kind and quantity of foods a necessity, but, generally speaking — leaving out discussion of the three types of necessary food elements: protein, or nitrogen, the carbohydrates (including sugar and starches), and fat — all this aside, it is agreed that human beings as a class need more of the potash salts than they ordinarily realise or take into their systems. The lack of proper pro- portion of these salts lays the foundation for many troubles, in simple and complicated form, which, however, may be avoided by the substitution or inclusion of more fruit
vii
viii FRUIT RECIPES
foods, for vegetables and fruits contain these necessary salts in abundance. (See Note.)
Fruit juices furnish the most delightful form of pure water, which is too apt to be considered, in the words of the Southern colonel, "good fuh pupposes of navigation, but a mighty po' drink.' ' The fruit form of acids is re- freshing; it speedily furnishes energy to the muscular system — the sugar being readily assimilated — and in general or directly (as with the tropical papaw and pine- apple) assists digestion. Each fruit has a special and some of the general values; some of them meant only as accessories to other foods, as a rule stimulants and purifiers, containing chiefly the carbohydrates, and must be bal- anced by fats, nitrogen, or protein, and foods containing more cellulose. Some fruits require very little * 'balancing/' being substantial and nearly perfect in themselves, as figs, prunes, and the cocoanut, which last, when fresh, should be ranked rather with fruits than nuts. The banana is a substantial food, very rich in carbohydrates and "body"; so also the persimmon. Grapes are nearly perfect from a general point of view and the apple is unique in rank.
Acid fruits are not always to be recommended in com- bination with starchy foods, and too much acid may be used, but all people are not constituted alike: uncooked fruits may or may not agree with one (though in general fruits are best and more direct in effect uncooked and, whether fresh or cooked, should be eaten with less sugar than is the usual habit) and special fruits or combinations may be found undesirable. Some human beings need food oftener than others or in greater quantity. Some need to be reduced in flesh or the reverse. No hard and fast rules can be laid down; each one should realise the value of fruits as a whole and of fruits individually and should as thoroughly know his own needs.
PREFACE
IX
Facts concerning the values of fruits have been widely scattered, hidden behind masses of figures or buried in scientific works. Figures and scientific terms are nec- essary in their places, but those included here are only as matters of reference. To be vitally interested is the first requisite for learning "more and more." Everyone has not the gift for remembering figures and names, and to be so burdened is often to stop one at the outset or detract seriously from interest.
Many foundation recipes are included and explanations, because this collection is meant quite as much for men who are "batching it" (perhaps having their first experiences in cooking where strange fruits have to be dealt with) as for women who rightly believe variety to be the spice of life ; and I have given as far as possible just what I myself would many times have valued could someone have saved my having to hunt through a great many volumes for all I wished to know concerning the preparation of some particular fruit, or for some general formula which each book usually takes for granted one already knows in exact proportion.
I have included also a few old-time recipes because of their great interest, from their age, to this generation, or the superior results to be obtained from their use. The housekeeping of earlier centuries seems elaborate and heavy by contrast with the lighter, modern methods, but life as a whole was simpler then than now and in attempting to improve upon the old-fashioned ways we have dropped a little too much, for there were certain quaint touches of housewifely care which exercised untold charm in many directions. Were the old-time still-rooms in vogue to-day, with their fragrant atmosphere of aromatic herbs, fruit- cordials, brandies, and wines, patent medicines would find few victims; the murderously adulterated liquors of
x FRUIT RECIPES
foreign and domestic markets so generally used as mild tonics as well as stimulants, would not be countenanced or would be rated at their real standing and money value from strict analysis. Fruits have medicinal or tonic value which in cordials "go to exactly the right spot"; the old fruit brandies were used for flavouring, and were far supe- rior to the average, adulterated or cheap, weak stuffs we have to buy to-day and which as a matter of course in- clude alcohol.
As authorities I have consulted Haig's " Diet and Foods"; Burnett's "Foods and Dietaries"; Holbrooks's "Food and Work" ; Williams's "Chemistry of Cookery" ; Fownes's "Manual of Chemistry"; Remington's "Practice of Phar- macy"; the Dispensatory of the U. S. (Wood and Bache), the encyclopedias, American, Britannica, and Chambers's; Gray's Botany; Helen Harcourt's "Florida Fruits and How to Raise Them"; Country Life in America, Table Talk, What to Eat, Harper's Bazar, The Delineator, the New England and all other of the leading periodicals per- taining to the table and to health, and dozens of "cook books." Most of my recipes, however, are original or long since adopted and adapted by family habit or traditions of cooking of friends — Scotch, English, German, and Amer- ican (to whom I am much indebted), but endless consul- tation and comparison for years has resulted in agreeing with Solomon that, with national or individual exceptions, change of name, or proportion of ingredient, "there is no new thing under the sun."
I wish also to express my thanks to Dr. Wiley, chief chemist of the Agricultural Department, and to William A. Taylor, H. E. Van Deman, G. B. Brackett, H. Harold Hume, P. H. Rolfs, H. J. Webber, W. T. Swingle, R. B. Handy, W. H. Evans, ML E. Jaffa, W. 0. Atwater, Fred V. Colville, and Deborah G. Passmore of this greatest of the
PREFACE xi
government departments as well as to the Department in general. Such work, scientific, practical, and artistic, cannot be overestimated, whether one is little or much dependent upon it; for the results of these investigations reach people who might never be reached in any other way and yet influence those who have every other oppor- tunity and scientific authority at hand, helping to sim- plify everyday affairs; and we must — men and women — live with eyes open to the practical power of the products of the earth if we expect to live the sweetest, the simplest, and so, the fullest lives.
R. M. Fletcher Berry.
Note: Bicarbonate of potash in proportion of "about an eggspoonful to a pound of ripe fruit, rather more in the case of unripe fruits" — (Burnett) is now given patients of gouty and other types of cases with fruit — even with lemons and tartest gooseberries — that they may have fruit-diet, although until very recently it was supposed they must be denied fruit.
R. M. F. B.
CONTENTS
PAGE
Weights and Measures . xix
Introductory Recipes .... 3
CHAPTER
I. The Apple 23
II. The Pear 49
III. The Quince .57
IV. The Medlar and the Loquat . . .63 V. The Peach and Apricot . . . .66
VI. The Cherry 81
VII. The Plum 93
VIII. The Northern Papaw . . . .106
IX. The Wild Northern Persimmon . . .107
X. The Grape . . . . . . .108
XL The Olive 122
XII. Melons 125
XIII. A Cluster of Berries 136
XIV. The Lemon 185
XV. The " Wild," " Sour/' or Seville Orange . 201
XVI. The Orange 211
XVII. The Citron, Bergamot, Limeberry,
Kumquat, and Trifoliata . . .223
XVIII. The Pomelo (or " Grape Fruit "), Lime,
Tangelo, and Citrange . . .229
xiii
xiv CONTENTS— Continued
CHAPTER PAGB
XIX. The Pineapple 238
XX. The Banana 250
XXI. The Fig 260
XXII. The Date— The Cocoanut . . . .271
XXIII. The Japanese Persimmon . . . .283
XXIV. The Guava 287
XXV. Rose and Malay Apples, Java Plum, Suri- nam and Barbadoes " Cherries/' and Marmalade Box . . . .295
XXVI. The Pomegranate 297
XXVII. The Avocado, " Aguacate," or " Alligator
Pear" 299
XXVIII. The Custard Apple, The Cherimoya, Sweet
and Sour Sop, and Pond Apple . 301
XXIX; The Mangosteen — The Mammee Apple . 303
XXX. Sapodilla, Mammee Sapota, White Sapota, Star Apple, Cocoa Plum and Egg Fruit (or "Ti-es") . . . .305
XXXI. Six of the More Familiar Tropical and
Semi-Tropical Fruits . . . 307
XXXII. Some of the Less Known Fruits . -311
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES
|
2 saltspoons |
equal |
one coffee spoon |
|
2 coffeespoons |
a |
" teaspoon |
|
60 drops |
tt |
" teaspoon |
|
3 teaspoons (dry) |
tt |
" tablespoon |
|
4 teaspoons (liquid) |
tt |
" tablespoon |
|
4 tablespoons (liquid) |
a |
" wineglass |
|
4 tablespoons (liquid) |
tt |
" half cup |
|
8 large tablespoons or 2 wine |
||
|
glasses |
tt |
" gill |
|
2 gills |
tt |
" cup |
|
1 cup |
equals |
" half pint |
|
2 cups or 32 tablespoons |
make |
" pint |
|
2 pints or 4 cups |
a |
" quart |
|
1 cup granulated sugar |
equals |
" half pound |
|
1 cup butter (solid) |
a |
" half pound |
|
1 rounding tablespoon butter |
a |
" ounce |
|
1 heaping tablespoon sugar |
a |
" ounce |
|
1 tablespoon of liquid |
a |
" half ounce |
FRUIT RECIPES
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES
There are certain foundation formulas or recipes which are applicable, with variations, to every known fruit, such as blanc mange, custard, fruit soup, etc. These are given below so that where special formulas are not given later the general rule may be applied.
FRUIT SOUPS
Fruit Soups are usually served cold — where convenient chilled on ice — in very small china or glass bowls or bouillon cups. With this daintiness of service, however, it may be forgotten or not realised that such soups are not to the stomach mere empty, introductory flourishes, whatever the intent. Fruit soups are foods and as such are used in many countries by even the peasants, though they mav lack delicate table appointments. It is true that a fruit may be used which is not of itself substantial (though the opposite may hold, as with prunes) but the sago, arrowroot, or tapioca used for thickening furnishes a certain amount of heat-producing material and where wine is added this is increased, so it may readily be understood why, when used in quantity, such combinations may approach, of themselves " substantial meals" or why, even in small measure, fruit soups with but slight additions of foods containing other balancing elements, may arrive at the right to be chief "dish" of a luncheon or light supper.
As a general rule stewed fruit passed through a sieve may have added to it an equal quantity of water and to each pint a heaping teaspoon or scant dessertspoon of sago, arrowroot (for which cornstarch may be substituted) or
3
4 FRUIT RECIPES
tapioca. Some instructors give the rule of a level table- spoon of cornstarch to each pint of clear, pressed fruit- juice, which, however, may be slightly diluted. The ar- rowroot or cornstarch is a quicker process and should be dissolved till smooth in a little cold water, added when the fruit juice is at boiling point, then cooked till clear; mean- time adding sugar, and later a tablespoon of lemon juice or wine. If sago or tapioca is used it must be cooked till thoroughly tender and translucent. A fruit soup made of raspberries may serve as example of a lighter fruit soup and the Swedish of those more substantial. See also the Prune, the Apple, etc., or apply as convenience and taste dictate.
RED RASPBERRY SOUP
Add one pound granulated sugar to two quarts of red raspberries well looked over and mashed. Let stand an hour, then put through sieve. Heat gradually, stirring carefully, and when at boiling point add a tablespoon of cornstarch which has been dissolved in just a little cold water. When clear, smooth, and thickened add a half- pint of sherry, remove at once and let cool. When ready to serve pour it over shaved ice in glasses.
SWEDISH FRUIT SOUP
Allow one-third part of apricots or prunes to two-thirds dried apples, in proportion of a cup of the apples to two quarts of water. Wash and soak over night in the water (cold). In the morning place on the stove with a cup of raisins or currants, or half and half, a sprinkling of cinnamon and tablespoon of tapioca or sago. Add another quart of cold water and simmer till fruits and tapioca or sago are tender. Add a little sugar or salt as liked.
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 5
FRUIT SALADS
In preparing fruit salads there are several points to be kept in mind: the general form of the salad, the combination of the elements composing it; the dressing and the gar- nishing. Remembering these, one may have infinite and most appetising charm of variety. As to the form, the salad may be served in delicate green or rosy apples, hol- lowed out; in pears, like fashion; in small or large melons; in tomato, pepper, or other vegetable casing; in the rinds of the citrus fruits etc. The salad itself may be a mere salad or it may have meat value by the addition of hard- boiled eggs, nuts, chopped or whole " meats/ ' or, some- times, even cheese. Popcorn furnishes a nourishing ad- dition also. Celery or other dainty vegetable may be combined with fruit, and of fruit itself not only the sub- stantial but the delicate may be combined to attract both eye and palate: bananas and melons, cubed, or peaches (of similar substance) may be added to cherries, to the candied angelica (traditionally "good for the diges- tion"), to currants, red or blue plums, or strawberries. Pineapple and other southern fruits, as well as the northern-known, juicy citrus family, may be added to the delicate green cucumber, to pears and apples, or to seeded grapes or olives. There is nothing which cannot be artistically blended with something else in the fruit or vegetable world, or with rose petals, candied violets, etc.
The garnishing appeals to the eye but even the gayly- graceful nasturtium has a spicily stimulating mission stomachward. Cress may be either a garnish or the body of the salad, as also may be lettuce, etc. But sprigs of currants, white or red, may be used; parsley (a stimu- lant in disguise) ; sprays of cherries or kumquats ; or figs or dates softly fresh or freshened. Or there may be a bed of
6 FRUIT RECIPES
vegetable or fruit gelatine; celery or tomato, lemon or melon, and so on, endlessly.
The dressing is an important matter whether it be the 11 simple' ' French or a combination of flavoured secrets. Olive oil requires virtually no digestion and furnishes an immense amount of nourishment. But even yet there are people who find it apparently impossible to cultivate a taste for it and so eschew salads or substitute butter for the oil. The oil, however, may be used with little or none of the oil flavour, or whipped cream may be substituted with pure fruit salads.
FRENCH DRESSING
Mix well one-half teaspoon each of salt and pepper with one tablespoon of lemon juice (or fruit vinegar). Pour this gradually, stirring the while, on three tablespoons of olive oil. Toss the salad in this thoroughly. Melted butter may be substituted for the oil.
SIMPLE MAYONNAISE
To the yolk of one egg allow about one cup of olive oil and three tablespoons of lemon juice or strong, pure vine- gar. To the yolk of the egg add one saltspoon of salt and a dash of cayenne pepper or Tabasco, and a teaspoon of either prepared mustard or Worcestershire Sauce. (These may of course be omitted if preferred). Add a few drops of oil to the whipped yolk and beat well with silver fork, adding more oil, little by little, alternating with the acid until the dressing is quite stiff and glossy. Keep ice-cold until used. Also, this may be frozen (in glass) by burying it in ice and salt for two hours. (Real olive oil con- geals at higher temperature than other oils. If the oil is merely labelled "olive oil" it will not freeze so quickly.)
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 7
CREAM OR WHITE MAYONNAISE
This may be made with sweet or sour cream; if the for- mer, having the cream whipped and adding in equal quan- tity to mayonnaise already prepared. Sour thick cream may be substituted, or whipped white of egg. This may be coloured green with spinach juice or pink with berry- syrup or cordials or with cochineal or maraschino.
COOKED MAYONNAISE
Put on the stove one teacup of vinegar and let it come to a boil (in double vessel), adding three tablespoons sugar, one teaspoon salt, a pinch *6f cayenne pepper, and six mustard spoons of mixed or French mustard, with three tablespoons of olive oil or melted butter. While this mixture is heating beat well the yolks of three eggs, adding at the last a dessertspoon of flour. Whip this lightlyjnto the heated vinegajr, etc., and let cook till thick, stirring all the while and never letting boil. Remove and cool. This will keep a long time (for salad dressing) without ice.
OLIVE OIL AND CREAM FRUIT DRESSING
Use equal quantity of oil and cream. (The evaporated, unsweetened cream will answer the purpose very nicely.) The oil must be added gradually to the cream and mixed shortly before serving or it will separate. Flavour this with maraschino, or some other liqueur, brandy, or cordial, and the oil is quite disguised.
WHIPPED CREAM DRESSING
A simple whipped cream may be substituted for an oil dressing with fruits and may be flavoured with cordials or liqueurs or not, as the fruit or one's taste indicates.
8 FRUIT RECIPES
WHIPPED EGG FRUIT DRESSING
To the white of one egg allow a tablespoon of olive oil. Whip first the egg, adding oil gradually as in mayonnaise. Flavour with lemon juice, salt, cayenne, etc., as for may- onnaise, or substitute pure fruit cordials or liqueurs; fail- ing these use a pure fruit syrup, fresh or preserved.
SOUR CREAM DRESSINGS
When cream is soured, but not old enough to be strong (although it may be very thid:), it may be used in several ways for dressing: (i.) Rub smooth the yolks of four hardboiled eggs, adding gradually fiye tablespoons of sour, thick cream. Thin and flavour this with lemon or wild orange juice or tarragon vinegar. (2.) Mix smooth in a cup of sour cream a tablespoon of flour. Have heating three tablespoons of lemoa juice or vinegar, and two of butter, one-half teaspoon eaeh ot ^ugar and mustard, and pinch of cayenne or paprika. Mix cream and flour in this and cook three minutes, storing the while. Just before removing from fire add the stiff whipped whites of two eggs. Remove and cool. (3.) Thick, fresh, sour cream may be used uncooked, with lemon juice or a thick syrup or cordial flavouring. Just before serving the whipped whites of two eggs may be added, but this cannot stand long and the egg is not necessary.
SIMPLE BISCUIT DOUGH
Sift one teaspoon of salt and two (rounding) of baking powder through one quart of flour and rub into the whole one heaping tablespoon of shortening. In the centre pour gradually one pint of sweet milk, or part milk and part water, making a soft dough with as little mixing as pos- sible. Roll out; cut and bake quickly.
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 9
DROP BISCUIT OR SCONES
Where drop biscuit or scones are wished drop the dough by the spoonful (size desired) on to well greased pan — instead of rolling out — while the dough is yet not in the smooth, harder condition required for rolling and cutting.
SHORT-CAKE (Plain)
To each pint of flour allow one dessertspoon of shortening (or one tablespoon if a richer dough is preferred), one dessertspoon of sugar, one heaping teaspoon baking pow- der, and a half teaspoon of salt. Roll out and bake in two sheets (either round or square tins), and bake about twenty minutes in a rather quick oven. Separate the sheets with a fork and pour or spread over them the prepared fruit. Or the dough may be rolled thinner, buttered, and folded over so that the sheets may be opened more readily. 'For further directions see Strawberry Shortcake.)
PASTRY FOR PIES AND TARTS
i. Potato Paste (Without Shortening) To three-fourths pint very mealy potatoes add a half teaspoon salt and sufficient flour to make quite stiff. Soften this with cream sufficiently to roll out easily. Bake quickly.
2. Oatmeal Paste (Without Shortening) Scald two cups fine oatmeal with one cup boiling water, mixing thoroughly. Roll thin and line pie-tins, then bake lightly belore filling with pie mixture.
3. Pastry Made with Cream One and three-fourths pints flour in which has been sifted a half teaspoon each of baking powder and salt. Mix into this quickly one cup of cream, rolling thin the
io FRUIT RECIPES
resulting dough. Spread on this one dessertspoon of but- ter; fold over and roll out again.
4. Bread Dough Paste Roll shavings of butter in bread dough, rolling out and spreading it three times.
5. Plain Pastry with Shortening With three cups flour sift one teaspoon salt and one-half teaspoon baking powder. Rub or cut into this three- fourths cup of shortening. Moisten with ice water just enough to bind together and roll out. Fine-chopped, fresh beef suet may be used: one-half cupful to each cup of flour. Make a funnel of stiff white paper and insert in top crust with covered fruit pies and the juice will not run out at the edges. (Where the lower crust is baked before adding the tart or pie "filling" or the under crust is omitted, pies and tarts may be light, flaky, and digestible as well as delicious and few need be debarred their old-fashioned delights.)
EGGLESS CAKE
One and one-half cups sugar; one-half cup shortening, two cups sweet milk; three and a half cups flour, in which has been sifted the baking powder (three rounding tea- spoons) and a pinch of salt. If other shortening than but- ter is used a tablespoon of brandy or other liquor will dis- guise any possible suggestion, but other flavouring may be added as well without conflicting.
ONE-EGG CAKE
One and a half cups sugar; one-half cup shortening; one cup sweet milk; one egg; three and one-fourth cups flour; three rounding teaspoons baking powder, and pinch of salt. Flavouring as wished.
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES n
ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR CAKE
One cup each of butter and milk; two scant cups sugar; three cups flour; four eggs; two small teaspoons baking powder.
SIMPLE SPONGE CAKE
Three-fourths cup sugar; one cup sifted flour; one and one-half teaspoons baking powder; two eggs beaten with the sugar ; a pinch of salt ; two large (kitchen) tablespoons cold water; any flavouring desired. (If wine is used sub- stitute one tablespoon of it for one of water). This makes a small cake.
FRUIT CAKES
The generally accepted unwholesomeness of fruit cakes is chiefly based on the fact that the condensed nutriment of such cakes is not realised and they are eaten "on top of " too much other food or in too great quantity at any time. The dried fruits contain concentrated nourishment and should be eaten sparingly as well as at proper time, with thorough mastication.
WHITE FRUIT CAKE (German Recipe)
Beat together one cup of butter and two of sugar; add one-half glass white wine and then the stiff-whipped whites of eight eggs. Now add gradually three cups of flour, in which two teaspoons of baking powder have been sifted, and at the last one-quarter pound fine cut citron, one-half pound chopped almonds, one teacup of light- coloured currants and one-half cup grated cocoanut. Bake slowly about two hours, until it does not stick to the slenderest straw. '
ia FRUIT RECIPES
BLACK FRUIT CAKE (German Recipe)
Cream well one pound each of butter and sugar and add a good glass of brandy, three cups of flour, in which have been sifted five teaspoons of baking powder, one cup of water, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, six well- beaten eggs, and one pound each of well-prepared currants, raisins, figs, dates, and prunes. Bake three hours.
PLAIN BOILED ICING (With Egg)
To a cup of granulated sugar add one-half cup water and let boil till it strings from spoon or hardens slightly in cold water. Have ready the whipped white of an egg (or two) and on this pour the boiling syrup, beating with silver fork. Add flavouring and when the icing has thickened a little spread on the cake.
ICING WITH WATER ONLY
To a half cup of boiling water add sufficient confection- er's sugar to make of convenient stiffness for spreading.
SOFT ICING (Without Egg)
Use one-third part of water to granulated sugar and let boil without stirring till it threads or " ropes" when re- move and let stand till barely warm. Beat then till dough- like and knead till creamy. This will-keep if placed in glass in a cool spot. When needed place in double boiler with hot water in outer vessel and stir till sufficiently soft to use, then flavour.
FRUIT BUTTER
Chop together equal parts of stoned raisins, dates, and figs and add (after weighing) nuts equal in weight to the whole. The nuts may be mixed according to convenience
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 13
or taste, as one part each of black and white walnuts, pecans, almonds, peanuts, hazel or Brazil nuts. Mix thoroughly together and pack in a mould for slicing.
GERMAN FRUIT BROD
Stew separately one pound dried apples and two pounds each of apricots, prunes, and pears, and when quite done mix together, adding two pounds raisins and a pound each of chopped citron and nuts. Also add one pound sugar, one-half teaspoon cloves, and one teaspoon each of all- spice, anise, and cinnamon. Set a dough with flour and plenty of yeast but dampen only with the juice cooked out of the fruit. Let rise, and bake slowly two hours or more.
BREAD FOR FRUIT TOAST
At noon put to soak one cake of yeast in one-half pint lukewarm water and when thoroughly dissolved stir with it sufficient flour to thicken well into rather a stiff batter. Let rise till just before "bed time." Then add one quart and a half-pint lukewarm milk (or one five-cent can evaporated cream diluted to equal above quantity) ; one heaping tablespoon shortening; one dessertspoon salt; three-fourths cup sugar and flour to make a moderately stiff bread dough (as if for last working). Work just a little, then set to rise (covered) in place free from draughts. This will be ready to make up by about six o'clock next morning (depending somewhat of course upon the temperature). ' Work out into individual loaves and set to rise again. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Have oven at moderate temperature at first, then increase the heat as the loaves come up. This will make four "brick loaves."
To each loaf may be added one and a half cups of chop-
i4 FRUIT RECIPES
ped nuts (preferably peanuts) , but the nut bread must not be allowed to become stale or rancid. Served with fruit and the fruit juice this combination gives an excellent proportion of the food values required by the body for nourishment and in sufficient quantity is of itself a good luncheon or breakfast.
BATTER PUDDING
This is an old-fashioned foundation batter pudding which may be used plain with a fresh or stewed fruit sauce or the fruit cooked with the pudding. The pudding may be baked in a buttered dish for thirty-five minutes or boiled in a close-covered mould in rapidly boiling water for two hours.
To a pint of cold milk allow two eggs, a little salt, and four tablespoons of flour. Sufficient for four people.
BATTER FOR FRUIT FRITTERS
To one cup of flour add a good pinch of salt and a half teaspoon of baking powder, then sift. Into the middle of this stir two beaten eggs and a half cup each of milk and sugar, then beat well. One egg only may be used, in which case add a half teaspoon of baking powder.
PLAIN BOILED CUSTARD AND FLOAT
To each quart of milk allow four or five eggs and three tablespoons of sugar, beating the sugar with the yolks of the eggs before adding the milk. The whites may be whipped separately with a tablespoon of sugar and used as a meringue or whipped lightly into the body of the custard as preferred. The custard may have added to it a tea- spoon or more of dissolved cornstarch. This ma}- also be baked, placing the custard in cups or one dish, baking carefully in moderate oven in an outer vessel of water.
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 15
Float is a thinner form of custard and for this three or four eggs may be used with a little cornstarch. Neither the thicker, "boiled" custard or float should be allowed to boil but (in a double boiler) cooked just under boiling point and watched carefully while it thickens.
PLAIN CORNSTARCH BLANC MANGE
Allow three heaping tablespoons of cornstarch to one quart of milk, wetting and dissolving it with a little of cold milk. Heat the rest of the milk to boiling point with three tablespoons of sugar and pinch of salt. Add to it the dissolved cornstarch and cook gently about Ave minutes, adding at the last the flavouring desired. Eggs may be used with this if the perfectly smooth stiffness is not de- sired. In this case have eggs ready whipped, the whites alone (one or two or more) or both yolks and whites ; pour in and beat lightly with the mixture just before removing. Place in a wetted mould to cool and chill before serving.
PLAIN TAPIOCA OR SAGO
Allow one-half cup tapioca or sago to one quart of cold milk. Let soak in part of the milk till softened well. Place the rest of the milk meantime in double boiler to heat with two tablespoons sugar and half teaspoon salt. When the sago or tapioca is softened add to the heated milk and cook till thick. The sugar may be omitted and a little butter substituted. Also, for a richer pudding, two eggs may be added, whipped (with flavouring) and beaten in just before removing from the fire.
For the plainest form add no milk or egg, substituting fruit juice or wine and pouring over the fruit desired. How- ever the white of an egg whipped stiff gives lightness in texture and taste.
16 FRUIT RECIPES
PLAIN GELATINE
Soak one box gelatine in three-fourths pint of cold water till dissolved, when add one quart boiling water, the juice of three lemons (or other fruit juice) and sugar to taste (about two cups will make this moderately sweet). Let cool, then set on ice to harden. In hot weather reduce somewhat the quantity of water used. Or use three pints fruit juice (no water) to one box of gelatine, giving it in part of the juice. Proceed as at □
SP0N3Z
A "sponge" may be made by the addition ol whipped
white of egg to plain gelatine (as above).
ITALIAN OR SPANISH AND BAVARIAN CREAMS
The so-called Italian and Spanish creams are founded upon a gelatine mix iditionof eggs, while
the Bavarian Cream in general substitutes whipped cream
for eggs. Very simple forms of these are here given:
i. Spanish or Italian Cream
Dissolve one-half box gelatine -.rely covering it
with cold water, letting stand an hour or more. Mean- time make a custard with one pint milk, three-fourths cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, and, when at boiling point, the yolks of three eggs (beaten with part of the sugar), whipped in with the dissolved gelatine. Be xfl and stb a few minutes then remove, add flavouring and the whites of the eggs whipped very stiff. Let cool and set on ice to chill,
: B z\ . Dnaofae :ne-half box cup \
Heat to boiling point a cup of milk with a half cup of sugar and pinch of salt. Add the softened gelatine, then strain
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 17
and add flavouring. Beat till it begins to cool and thicken when add lightly a pint of cream well whipped and place on ice to harden.
ICE CREAM AND ICES
For a plain foundation ice cream use equal quantity of new milk and cream. Heat to boiling point (not beyond) adding one cup of sugar with a pinch of salt. Let cool before adding fruit juice or pulp, or both, with perhaps a little lemon juice to bring out the flavour. It is often advisable, where the fruit juice is uncooked or very tart, to partially freeze the cooled cream and milk before adding the juice.
About one heaping teaspoon of gelatine (dissolved before adding) for each pint of the milk and cream gives the smooth- ness of a mousse, which is also attained by the addition of whipped cream.
Evaporated cream or condensed milk may be used with excellent results.
Whipped cream and the whipped whites of eggs in equal portion may be frozen and merely flavoured with fruit juice or have added an equal part of sweetened fruit pulp,
FROZEN CUSTARD
To one quart of heated milk add three well-beaten eggs, one' cup of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cool, add the fruit or juice desired, and freeze. With custard, also, it is sometimes best to partially freeze before adding to it the fruit juice.
FRUIT ICES AND SHERBETS
Make a syrup in general proportion of one quart of water to a pound of sugar with a pinch of salt and boil five minutes. The sweetness or tartness of the fruit used
18 FRUIT RECIPES
necessitates varying the amount of sugar. When cold add to the syrup a pint of fruit juice, also pulp if wished.
Sherbets or "sorbets" are made by adding to the ice made as above, when partially frozen, the whipped white of an egg (or two if liked) for the above quantity, or with a little sugar added.
Granites are coarse-grained ices packed in the can and set away without stirring till the expiration of an hour when the sides are scraped fresh and the mixture re-packed. This is twice repeated. It is not until the ice is scraped and stirred that the fruit is added, lightly mixed in.
FRUIT JUNKET
Make with junket tablets according to given directions on all such packages. Fill large dish or individual serving cups or sherbert glasses with fruit, fresh or stewed, sweet- ened, about one-half full. On this pour the tablet when dissolved according to instructions. Let this "set" till quite firm before placing on ice to chill.
SOUFFLES
The connection is immediate between the word souffle, or the souffle concoction, and the French verb souffler: to inflate; to swell; to blow out, etc., the foundation of souffles being the whipped egg which rises and falls again. Two simple forms of souffle are here given which may be adapted to any fruit or its juice.
i. Simple Souffle Separate six eggs; add a pinch of salt to the whites and whip till "dry." Whip separately three of the yolks then fold in lightly with the whites, adding a tablespoon of any fruit juice and sprinkling sugar over the top. Bake quickly in hot oven ten minutes.
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 19
2. Souffle — With Cooked Foundation Take two tablespoons each of butter and flour; rub smooth and add to a pint of scalding milk (in double boiler). Cook till thick. Add yolks of three eggs and three table- spoons sugar, stirring two minutes, then removing and cool- ing. Add fruit juice or pulp as wished then fold in the stiff-whipped whites of the eggs and bake ten or fifteen minutes in individual souffle dishes. If made into one large souffle the baking will require about thirty-five minutes.
SIMPLE OMELET
There is a difference of opinion among cooks as to the beating of the eggs for omelets, many holding that the yolks and whites should be whipped separately, and others that it makes no difference, but that twelve strokes given to yolks and whites together is all sufficient. Use three eggs; if double the quantity is required make in separate omelet pans. Four tablespoons of milk may be added for three eggs. Many people also prefer the addition of a teaspoon of flour. Sprinkle salt and pepper on the eggs before beating them and have the pan heating, placing in it a tablespoon of butter. When the latter is "sizzling" pour in the omelet and let set. When browned turn one side over on the other then toss onto the serving platter.
TO CAN FRUIT
As a general proportion allow two cups of water to one of sugar for the lighter canning syrup. Prepare the fruit and pack closely in the jars to be used, which should be sterilised by placing cans, rubbers, funnel, spoons, and tops in cold water, bringing to boiling point and boiling for five minutes. Meantime have ready the syrup, skimming when it has boiled. (Very little water should be used with the
2o FRUIT RECIPES
juicy fruits and the amount of sugar may be lessened or omitted entirely if the fruit is to be used for cooking pur- poses.) Place the fruit in the hot j ars, (tops loose) filling up with the syrup ; then put jars in a boiler on a false bottom of slats, perforated wood, or some soft material (as hay or cloth) having the surface even, and so packing in the jars with the hay, etc., that they do not touch or move about with the mo- tion of the (later) boiling water. Fill the boiler to the necks of the jars with lukewarm water; place the boiler-cover on over the fire and let water heat gradually. After it reaches boiling point let it boil twenty minutes for small fruits and longer for the heavier kinds, then remove the cover; pull the boiler back for convenience when the steam has disap- peared. Remove the jars singly, placing them in a shallow pan of boiling water; fill up with boiling syrup and seal. Be sure that all air bubbles are gone. Place again on perfor- ated board to cool where there are no draughts. The covers may have to be tightened before setting away.
Another method is to fill the jars with the fruit, adding a half cup of granulated sugar for each pint of fruit, sift- ing it into the jars (with no water). Proceed then as above till jars are to be removed when fill each one up with boil- ing water or boiling syrup (either syrup prepared or from one of the other jars of fruit).
Set jars in a dark place, or wrap each one in paper. The old rule for the richer preserves is pound for pound of sugar and fruit.
For jelly the general rule is pint for pound of fruit juice and sugar, but this must vary with the kind or condition of fruit. With very sweet fruit the quantity of sugar should be less than the measure of syrup. Avoid making jelly (or icing or candies) on rainy or damp days. Choose a dry and if possible a sunny day. Never squeeze the fruit in jelly-bag but first wring out the bag in hot water
INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 21
to avoid any waste of juice. In using spices place them in cheesecloth bags and remove them before the jars are sealed for the more delicate pickles or spiced fruits as the spice will darken the fruit and tend to make it look old (see Citron Melon in Jelly, under Melons).
PRESERVED FRUIT SYRUPS
With some fruits the juice may be preserved without sugar, as with some grapes and with currants. For syrups to be used for sauces, drinks, frozen desserts, etc., measure juice and add half the amount of sugar. Half this amount of sugar will suffice for an ordinary preserved fruit juice. Bring to boiling point then strain; re-heat; boil five minutes and bottle.
TO MULL WINE
To one pint of wine add one fourth pint of water which has been steeped with one teaspoon each of mace, cinna- mon, and cloves. Sweeten to taste.
FRUIT LOZENGES
Cherries, currants, or other tart fruits may be made into the old-fashioned lozenges by adding one-third pint (or less) of sugar to each pint of thick, strained fruit juice, simmering together forty minutes and adding when at boiling point two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a very little cold water. Stir well, remove, and continue stirring till it begins to cool and thicken when pour into buttered earthen pans. Let dry slowly, sprinkle with sugar during the process, and cut into shapes liked.
COOKED SOFT CREAM CANDY FOR STUFFING FRUITS
Where confectioner's sugar is not used with white of egg (uncooked), making stiff enough to roll, the following
22 FRUIT RECIPES
will be found satisfactory: Take two pounds of white sugar and one teacup of water or milk, boiling till just before it threads from spoon if water is used, if milk, till it thickens and can be softly rolled when dropped in water ("the soft ball stage"). Flavour with vanilla or fruit juice. Remove and stir till creamy.
CLEAR FRUIT CANDY
Instead of using water, as above, use some tart fruit juice and let cook without stirring till it strings from the spoon.
FROSTED FRUITS
Frost as for Grapes (see Grape Snow).
CHAPTER I THE APPLE (Ma/us mains: Malacca)
THE apple is of all fruits the most entirely taken for granted. It has become as much a matter of course as the universe itself and just as naturally stands at the head of the fruits as does the sun among the heavenly bodies (of familiar, " speaking" aquaintance). And, as its first letter gives it front rank in the alphabet and primers so has the name of apple appealed first — foremost — to the imaginations of men and the fruit to their palates from the time of the earliest relation (not to say actual occur- rence!) of the story of Adam and Eve. Otherwise, why the apple instead of some one of the numerous delicious and more delicate southern fruits? It is substantial, firm, yet gracious and sunny; eminently practical; thus one may say, fitted in every way to stand the wear and tear of the ages. In poetry, folk-lore, and even history, no fruit has been more often referred to ; its beauty and whole- someness more constantly eulogised; standing out as the type of pomological excellence. Men it is who chiefly have written poetry and history, however divided their responsibility in the creation of beauty and facts, and men, like the apple, are eminently practical. Yet are men's hearts and minds not always won through the gastronomic channel or the appeal of the practical. The wild crab, supposed to be the earliest type of apple, lacked as a fruit some of the excellence of evolution, but there is yet, in these later ages, no flower, wild or cultivated, which can rival the wild crab-apple blossom in rare fragrance and
23
24 FRUIT RECIPES
delicacy of beauty ; none which even approaches its magi- cal perfume and charm save the sweet olive (plea frag- tans). It is sufficient in its marvellous witchery to cap- tivate and inspire rhapsody in the most practical — in even unimaginative, primeval man. And so, to its possession of unusual virtues and beauty has been added (happily, save in the instance of Adam) the appreciation of men; therefore the preeminence of the apple.
This first of fruits is known in Arabia and other southern countries but is essentially a product of the colder, more bracing climes; one fitted by its combination of refreshing acids, substantial bulk and stimulating juice, its possi- bilities in natural or (whether cooked or dried) preserved state, as food or drink, to give in such latitudes just that degree of comfort to man's physical organism, material for the playful exercise of the intellect and innocent revel of the aesthetic senses which are required for complete human en- joyment. It is concentrated power which may be applied toward the establishment and preservation of health; a dynamo possessing and giving out in its flavour, texture, and its action upon the body that vigorous poise neces- sary to offset any possible ill effects from long continued seasons of cold, when the earth rests and humanity is prone to become careless and let the blood and liver grow sluggish.
The juice of the apple combines extremes; the sparkle of sunshine and the sparkle of frost- time, the sun's glow laughing out in the working warmth of winter cider, the frost-touch cooling the blood in the seasons of the sun. Joel Benton claimed that "the apple bears a very pertinent relation to the brain, stimulating life and activity, which it does by its immense endowment of phosphorus, in which element it is said to be richer than anything in the vege- table kingdom." Even though the value or proportion
THE APPLE 25
of phosphorus, whether in apples or fish, is now considered no greater than that of other food elements ; this is an in- teresting statement as proving the earlier, generally ac- cepted wholesomeness of apples and as a reminder that in former days men of marked mental achievement prized and placed first in their fruit affections and habits of eat- ing, the apple, publicly proclaiming and protesting their admiration for it. And one who nowadays has even oc- casionally felt the stimulation and refreshment of this fruit can well believe that a comparatively steady diet of it might prove conducive to brain activity and general well being. To-day, through improved methods of cultivation and better shipping facilities, we have more kinds of foods fresh, canned, or concocted, so that the world indulges less freely in such simple pleasures of diet as cider and apples and has, by this gain, in a sense undoubtedly lost. Other fruits are also of value but to be less bound by the modern slavery of the "necessity" of luxuries, whether imported and expensive (because less easily obtainable) fruits, or rich foods of other kinds, in winter or summer, would tend to simpler and more powerful directness of thought and strength of brain.
Pomologically speaking, the apple is the Mains mains, broadly considered, of the great Rose Family, and twin relative of the pear, yet somewhat more positive in char- acter. Its bulk makes it of as much proportionate value as a food as do its juices — preventing necessity of medicine. Malic acid, that great germ destroyer, is the most prominent of its acids, but its salts — its phosphates, are of equal balance in keepingliver, stomach, and intestines in healthful activity. An uncooked apple eaten at night before retiring (a glass of water to follow it) is one of the oldest of beauty and health prescriptions, preventing or relieving constipation, and giving clearness of complexion. The uncooked apple
26 FRUIT RECIPES
was of old considered Nature's complement for nuts, the eating of them together offsetting too great richness (by over-indulgence) of nut-fat and preventing indigestion. Salt was eaten with them at night to assist in digesting acid and fat: the three forming a notable trio. Cooked, the apple is also laxative, tonic and nourishing.
Fresh, sweet cider, bubbling with beauty, scintillating with sun-shafts, needs neither poetry nor spiking to recom- mend it, so evident is its simple wholesomeness to even the wayfaring man unless he be a fool. The crab-apple's juice (" ver-juice") is not pleasing until well fermented but in age (at even but three years) attains similarity to champagne. Medicinally ver-juice is valued. It should be mentioned here that the common crab-apple and the Siberian crabs are of different species, the latter being Pyrus baccata and Pyrus prunijolia.
Cider (with the possibility of gingerbread) and apples, salt, and nuts at the old time gatherings "by early candle- lighting" were more apt to be followed by sleep and health than the complicated "refreshments" at later hours of modern evening parties. When it is realised that in any reasonable form, a diet of apples rivals the famous grape- cures and is a diet conducive to beauty, this old-fashioned first of fruits must certainly come back into favour and be given its former prestige.
The following is the analysis of a pint of the cider given regularly to day-labourers in the agricultural districts of England (according to Voelker; Enc. Brit.):
Gum and Albuminous
Water Alcoho Grape Sug. Extractive Matter Malic Acid Ash Compounds
829241 367-69 31-67 45-Q5 44-86 18.38 1.94
grs. grs. grs. grs. grs. grs. grs.
THE APPLE 27
RECIPES
OLD-FASHIONED APPLE SAUCE
Pare, core, and quarter tart apples and at supper time place in a small crock on the back of the (warm) stove, pouring over the apples a pint of sugar dissolved in a cup of hot water. Cover the crock close and let stand till morning when the apples will be tender and may be served as a breakfast dish or set aside to be chilled for luncheon or supper.
CIDER APPLE SAUCE
Pare, core, and wash apples (two- thirds sweet, one- third sour), and place in preserving kettle with one quart of cider for each pailful of apples. Simmer slowly till of a deep colour. Quinces may be added to the sauce to give flavour; a dozen or less as taste indicates. Put away in stone jars.
STEWED APPLES AND DATES
Where unripe, insipid apples are the only ones available they may be improved in flavour and nutritive value by adding a half cup or more of stoned, sliced dates to each quart of partially stewed apples. Simmer the fruit to- gether about six minutes and set aside to cool. The grated rind of a lemon (which, if preferred, may be tied in a bit of linen) or the juice of a lemon, placed with the apples when first put on, pleasantly varies the flavour.
APPLES AND PRUNES OR RAISINS
These also are combinations affording much nourish- ment and variety and may be made with either dried or fresh apples. If dried wash, core, and soak over night and wash the raisins or prunes, working the latter well with the hands. Let them stand in the last water over
28 FRUIT RECIPES
night and simmer in it in the morning. (The water in which the fruit was soaked should be sufficient to cook it all in the morning.) Simmer the raisins or prunes very slowly for an hour then add the soaked apples and simmer to- gether till done. No sugar should be needed, which is an additional reason for the healthfulness of the dish.
BAKED APPLES (With nuts or honey)
Peel the apples and core well, then place in daep pan, allowing a heaping tablespoon of sugar and half a cup of water to each apple. In the centre of each apple place a teaspoon of chopped nuts and strip of lemon or orange peel and over the whole sprinkle cinnamon and nutmeg. Bake very slowly and the juice will become jelly-like. Serve hot or cold.
Or, fill centres with honey and a little butter, preparing otherwise the same.
APPLE SOUP No. i
For three pints of soup take a pint of apple stewed soft, rubbed through colander and sweetened, and to it add one and one-half tablespoons sago or tapioca cooked till soft and clear in a pint of boiling water. Simmer together twenty minutes, flavouring with salt and cinnamon; strain and serve hot or chilled.
APPLE SOUP No. 2
To two quarts of water allow seven tart apples cored but unpeeled, sliced thin. Cook them with one-half cup rice till soft then rub through sieve, add spice, a little sugar, and chopped or candied fruit. (See also Fruit Soups in Introductory Recipes.)
THE APPLE 33
APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED, No. i
Peel and core cooking apples, filling centres with sugar. Roll out biscuit dough rather thin and cut in squares large enough to cover apples. Place an apple in the centre of each square ; bring up the corners of the dough and fasten by pinching and twisting dough together. Place in baking pan close together and when pan is full pour over them a syrup made with one pint of water and one pound of sugar, letting this come half way to the top of the dumplings. Place in rather brisk oven and bake about forty minutes. Cinnamon may be sprinkled over the tops of each. This is the best form of apple dumplings though there are other good methods.
APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED, No. 2
The apples may be cored and quartered; placed in earthen baking-dish with a square of dough tucked down around each (not under them) a little sugar and water added, and baked. Individual baking-dishes may be used, instead.
APPLE DUMPLINGS, BOILED
The apples maybe prepared as for baked dumplings (No.i) then each one tied in a cloth, plunged into boiling water, and boiled hard an hour and a half. One large dumpling may be made, filled with sliced apples and sugar. In the latter case it will require two hours to cook thoroughly, and the water must boil constantly, being replenished as needed.
APPLE DUMPLINGS IN CUPS
Line baking cups with thin pastry ; fill up with slices of apple and sugar; place on each a cover of the pastry and put them in a large baking-pan, pouring boiling water around the cups half way up, and bake in hot oven.
34 FRUIT RECIPES
APPLE DUMPLING SLICES
Make a biscuit dough and roll out thin, covering with a layer of fine sliced apples, and roll over as for roly poly. Then slice, set the pieces on end (as with domino rows), in a buttered pan, and pour over them a syrup of a cup of sugar and half a cup of water. Add a bit of butter for each dumpling and bake half an hour, or till brown.
APPLE BATTER PUDDING
Peel, core, and slice thin six tart apples and place in baking-dish. Cream together one-fourth cup butter and one cup sugar; add two eggs, one cup of milk, and two cups of flour in which must be sifted two teaspoons baking powder. Pour the mixture over the apples and steam one hour. Serve with cream or sauce.
APPLE SLUMP No. i
Pare, core, and quarter one dozen tart, juicy apples and place in a saucepan which has a close cover. Pour over them a pint of hot water and set on the back of the stove for eight minutes, when add two cups of molasses. Make a soft biscuit dough with milk and roll out half an inch thick, making of it a cover for the apples. Place this paste-cover on the apples and put on tight the lid of the saucepan, bucket, or other vessel used. Cook on top of stove for thirty minutes without lifting cover. This may be set in oven to brown a few minutes or served as it is — with a sweet sauce.
APPLE SLUMP No. 2
Mix with a milk biscuit dough (using a pint and a half of flour) one or two eggs and through it two quarts of fine- cut apples. Place half an inch thick in buttered baking- pan. Bake in quick oven and eat with cream.
THE APPLE 35
APPLE JONATHAN
Work butter into bread dough till it is quite short then with it line the sides of a baking-dish. Heap the centre with pared, cored, sliced apples and place a thick sheet of the paste on top. Bake well, then lift off the crust and turn it upside down on a second dish. Into the apples stir sugar and butter, with spice if desired, and spread upon the crust. Eat hot with cream.
BROWN BETTY
Chop fine two cups of tart apples. Butter a baking- dish and place on it a layer of apple, sprinkling with cinna- mon, sugar and butter. Place on this a layer of the crumbs, alternating with the apple till dish is three-fourths full, leaving bread-crumbs on top. Add no water but cover tight and steam three-quarters of an hour in moderate oven when remove cover and quickly brown. Serve with milk or sweet sauce.
APPLE SNOW BALLS
Prepare squares of cloth as for individual boiled dump- lings and line with a layer of hot boiled rice. Place in the centre chopped, sliced or cored apple, if the last, filling centres with nuts. Tie the cloth well and bake or steam
forty minutes.
APPLE PONE
See Indian Apple Pudding.
APPLE CAKE
Make as for Huckleberry Cake for luncheon or supper dish.
INDIAN APPLE PUDDING
Pare and core a dozen apples. Have ready a quart of milk heated and add a quart of Indian meal, mixing and
36 FRUIT RECIPES
cooking carefully a few minutes. Add salt to taste, a cup each of molasses and suet (chopped) . Pour over the apples ; place in baking-dish and bake two hours or boil (in pudding cloth) for three.
APPLE AMBER
Core, peel, and chop three-fourths pound of apples. Mix together four ounces of suet, two each of sugar and flour, and six of breadcrumbs. When chopped and mixed add a little nutmeg and grated lemon peel and two beaten eggs. Stir thoroughly and place in a well buttered mould with cloth tied tight over the top. Boil three hours.
GERMAN APPLE CAKE (Simple) No. x or Apfel Kuchen
Add to one pint of the sponge for the usual light bread one-half cup each of sugar and shortening, one-half tea- spoon salt, one cup of milk and enough flour to make a soft dough. Spread this half an inch thick in the baking- pan and on it place in rows thin, lengthwise slices of apples. Let this rise half an hour in a warm spot; sprinkle with one half cup of sugar and cinnamon mixed — also a few bits of butter — then bake.
GERMAN APPLE CAKE No. 2
This form of "kuchen" may be made with baking pow- der. Use a pint of flour in which have been sifted a half teaspoon of salt and one and a half of baking powder with a tablespoon of sugar. Rub through this two tablespoons of butter, and mix well with one beaten egg and enough milk to make a thick batter (three-fourths cup or more). Place in baking pan one inch thick and over the top place apples cut into eighths, in rows, sharp edges pressed into the dough. Sprinkle as above with cinnamon and sugar and bake in brisk oven.
THE APPLE 37
GERMAN APPLE CAKE No. 3
Into a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub three- fourths pound of butter and roll out an inch thick. Have ready pared, cored, and sliced thin, (as in foregoing recipe) juicy apples mixed with one or two quinces and half a pound of raisins seeded. Sweeten well with brown sugar and add a little nutmeg with a wineglassful of rosewater or the juice and rind of two lemons. Place this mixed fruit on the pastry and fold over, then put in a baking pan which has been sprinkled with a little butter, cinna- mon, and sugar. Also on top sprinkle this and while baking add more. Bake two hours in moderate oven.
DRIED APPLE FRUIT CAKE
Soak two cups of dried apples over night. In the morn- ing chop and simmer them, until dark, (red or brown), in two cups of Orleans molasses. Let cool and add one cup each of butter and milk, one half cup sugar, three cups of flour, two level teaspoons each of cinnamon, allspice, and cloves, three of baking powder, three eggs, and one-half pound of raisins. (Also, if liked, a cup of currants and a tablespoon of chopped citron.) Bake for two or two and a half hours in slow oven.
APPLE SOLID
Simmer one and one half pounds lump sugar with three pounds sliced apples and juice and grated rind of three lemons, until thick, when pour into a wetted mould till cold. Turn out and serve with cream.
APPLE SNOW
Apple Snow may be made in two ways, using either the cooked or uncooked apples. For the uncooked grate a
38 FRUIT RECIPES
medium-sized tart apple (peeled, grated, and set aside). Whip stiff the white of one egg with a pinch of salt, then add, gradually, three tablespoons of sugar, beating well into the egg, alternating with the grated apple, a table- spoon at a time, till all the apple and sugar are used, then continue to whip until the "snow" has risen to at least a pint and a half in quantity, for it will swell surprisingly. If the cooked apple is used, observe the same proportion, the white of one egg to the pulp of each apple. Chopped dates or nuts may be added or fresh, grated cocoanut. The "snow" may be served as it is, or quickly and lightly browned.
APPLE CHEESE (Cake or Tart Filling)
To a pound of sugar add one-fourth pint of water and one- half pound of apples — peeled, cored, and quartered — and the grated rind of one lemon. Cook for three hours then add the juice of the lemon, boil for ten minutes, stirring con- tinually, then removing. Use this as a filling for tarts or cake or with nuts as sandwich filling.
APPLE FILLING FOR CAKE
Make as for Apple Snow, using one eggt one apple, and one cup of sugar. Also, for variety, the yolk of the egg may be added, the whole heated carefully till it thickens.
APPLE FLOAT
Make first a plain custard and when cold stir in it a pint either of apple sauce or a pint of grated apple (un- cooked). Whip in the stiff whites the last thing.
JELLIED OR GELATINE APPLES
To two quarts of tart apples, peeled, cored, and quartered, allow one half box of gelatine and put it to soak in one half
THE APPLE 39
cup of water. Make a syrup of a pint each of water and sugar, adding lemon juice, peel or flavoring, and a dusting of ginger. Let sugar dissolve then boil five minutes. Drop in the syrup the apples, three or four at a time, and let cook till tender but not broken. Dip out with skimmer and place on a platter. When all are cooked and removed put the softened gelatine in the syrup until quite dissolved then remove and stir till it begins to set. Wet a mould and place in it half the jelly, then the apples in a layer and the rest of the jelly over them, setting away to chill and harden. Serve with cream.
CIDER JELLY
To two pints of cider allow two full tablespoons of gela- tine, softening the gelatine in a little of the cold cider, heating the remainder to boiling point, adding a pound of sugar and then the softened gelatine. Strain and turn into a mould; cool and set on ice. Serve with rich milk.
APPLE CHARLOTTE
Soften a half box of gelatine in a half cup of cold water then heat it over steam for a half hour. Grate two large, tart apples and one lemon or orange and beat lightly into a pint of whipped cream, then add the gelatine and when thoroughly mixed turn into a mould and set aside to cool before placing on ice. Serve with rich milk or wine sauce.
MERINGUED APPLES
Prepare as for baking. When cold fill centres with marmalade, or marshmallows, then cover with meringue made in proportion of four eggs to one pound of t,agar. Flavour with rose water or lemon extract and place in quick oven to lightly brown.
4o FRUIT RECIPES
CODDLED APPLES
For this use the earlier apples, wipe and lay in a kettle, to each half peck adding three-fourths pint of brown sugar and a half pint of water. Cover and simmer till tender and sugared through.
SPICED~APPLES
To improve immature, insipid apples peel them thin and core, and to four pounds allow two pounds of sugar, one- quarter ounce each of nutmeg and cloves and one-half ounce stick cinnamon. Place the sugar and spices in a pint of vinegar and let come to a boil, when drop in the whole apples and cook carefully till tender enough to be pierced with a broom straw. Remove and pour the syrup over them. These may be served as a sauce or kept a long time in jars. (See also Sweet Apple Pickle.)
APPLE CHUTNEY
Chutney is as much used in India as we of other countries use other sauces and has as many variations as catsup, for instance. Apples are used as the foundation for several kinds of chutney. One of the simpler preparations requires five pounds of tart apples. These must be peeled, cored, and cooked smooth with two pounds of brown sugar and two quarts of cider vinegar. When thick as is catsup before diluting, place in a crock and add two pounds of chopped raisins, a small minced onion, one ounce each of white and black mustard seed (ground) and two of ground ginger, one tablespoon of salt, and two or three pods of red peppers minced. Mix and let stand over night (about ten hours), then stir again without cooking and place in small jars, sealing well. This will keep for years.
THE APPLE 41
APPLE CATSUP
Apple catsup is similar to apple butter, using as a foun- dation plain instead of cider apple sauce. Cook till thick, for each quart using a teaspoon each of ginger, cin- namon, cloves, pepper, mustard, onion extract, two of salt and a pint of vinegar. Simmer slowly till thick, (which may take an hour and a quarter), then bottle and
seal while hot.
APPLE BUTTER
Use only very tart apples, washing and placing in kettle
with a quart of cider to each pailful of fruit. Simmer down
till of a very thick, smooth consistency and add just a little
spice, to taste.
SWEET APPLE PICKLE
Add a teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and allspice (in thin cloth bag) to a syrup made with a quart of vinegar and three pounds of sugar. Have ready four pounds of apples pared, cored, and halved. Place carefully in the syrup, simmer till tender, and place in heated jars. Cook down the syrup till thick, when pour over fruit, filling up well, and seal.
APPLE JELLY No. 1
Take sour fruit, Do not core or pare, merely wash, wipe, and cut out blemishes. Cut up, pour over sufficient water to cover, and simmer till very soft, when drain through flannel bag, letting drip over night. To each quart of syrup the juice of a lemon or other tart fruit may be allowed as further flavouring if liked. Cook down the juice, skim- ming well before adding sugar (heated), a pound for each pint of juice. Simmer till sugar has dissolved; then boil, and the jelly will form in about twenty minutes. Rose geranium, mint, or other leaves may be used as flavouring, or orange blossoms preserved.
42 FRUIT RECIPES
APPLE JELLY No. 2 (With Quince) See Quince Jelly No. 3
APPLE AND CURRANT JELLY
See Currants.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 1
Make as for Apple Jelly, using a little more water. Do not pare or core the crab apples.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 2
Wash and wipe the apples; cut in half and place in crock on the back of the stove or the oven, setting in another vessel of hot water if there is danger of too great heat. When the apples are soft place in jelly bag to drain over night. Measure this juice and allow one pint of sugar to one of juice. Boil and skim the juice ten minutes before adding the heated sugar. Stir till dissolved, then boil eight or ten minutes. This makes a very tart jelly, stronger than many people like. Mint may be used to flavour this to serve with mutton or lamb.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 3
Use half and half of crab apples and Maiden's Blush apples, and make as for apple jelly. Or substitute for the Maiden's Blush black- or huckle- or raspberries, cherries, or pineapple juice.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 4
See Plum Jelly No. 2. Or for the wild plum substitute wild grape.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 5
Use equal parts of crab apples and Maiden's Blush, and allow for each quart or pound of the cut fruit the juice and thin-peeled rind of one lemon. Proceed as above.
THE APPLE 43
Cassia buds and cinnamon is an old-fashioned variation of flavouring, or ginger root, which by some is considered excellent with crab apple. Use one or two sticks and one or two buds or one ounce ginger to each quart of juice ; sim- mer twenty minutes, skimming, before adding sugar.
APPLE PRESERVES
Pare and core eight pounds tart apples. Make a syrup of eight pounds of sugar to one quart of soft water and dissolve one teaspoon citric acid crystals in this. Heat carefully and when clear and thick place in the syrup the apples, turning often that the syrup may cover them, letting remain till fruit is translucent. Place them on a hotter part of the fire till at boiling point, when remove the fruit (whole) and place carefully in heated jars. Fill up with the syrup, place a round of cotton soaked in brandy on top of each, seal covers, and put in cool place.
For simple canning much less sugar may be used and pineapples may be added in one third or equal proportion, or barberries.
APPLES PRESERVED WITH QUINCES
See Quinces preserved with Apples.
APPLES PRESERVED IN GRAPE JUICE
For apples or crab apples see Grape Juice for preserving.
APPLES AND CRAB APPLES PRESERVED IN CIDER
To each quart of boiled cider add three-fourths pint of sugar (or less as taste indicates). Use this as the preserv- ing syrup, proceeding as with preserved apples.
CRAB APPLE PRESERVE
Parboil the crab apples, preparing them by coring the unpeeled larger ones and leaving the smaller ones as they
44 FRUIT RECIPES
are, stems, cores, and skin. Place the parboiled fruit in syrup prepared for apple preserves. Cook carefully a few minutes that the fruit may not fall to pieces. Pro- ceed as with apple preserves. A little lemon or ginger flavouring will \)e an improvement or one-third part of orange, pineapple, barberry, or almost any berry or citrus preserve.
CRAB APPLE MARMALADE
Cook crab apples and sweet or wild plums separately till soft, when rub through colander and measure. To each three quarts of crab apple allow one quart of the plum. Mix and weigh and allow one pound sugar to each of fruit. Cook slowly and very carefully, that this may not burn, till smooth and thick. Place in marmalade pots and when cold seal as for jelly.
Crab apple and apple, or crabs and quinces may be used together for marmalade or any of the berries, citrus, or other distinctively flavoured fruits. They may be put up at different seasons and combined later.
APPLE AND QUINCE MARMALADE
See Quince Marmalade No. 2.
APPLE AND BLACK CURRANT MARMALADE
Use equal parts of currants and apples, cooking separ- ately, when soft putting through colander and mixing pulp. Cook the pulp and juice (strained off) till thick, when add equal weight of sugar and cook till of desired consistency.
LEMON AND APPLE MARMALADE
See Lemon Marmalade. Cook the lemon and apple separately and allow equal parts of lemon and apple.
THE APPLE 45
APPLE JAM
Pare, core, and weigh tart apples, allowing for four pounds of apples four pounds of brown sugar. Chop apples , meantime making a syrup of the sugar with as little water as can be used; add apples, the grated peel of four lemons, and a little ginger root. Simmer till the fruit pulp is translucent and golden in colour, when place in small jars.
Loaf sugar may be used, the lemon and ginger omitted, and the pulp cooked longer.
TO MAKE CIDER
It is generally reckoned that the richest cider is made from the sweetest apples. As it comes from the press pour it into a tub prepared by boring a hole in the bottom (the plug put in very loosely), and filled with alternate layers of charcoal and gravel. As fast as it filters through put it in a clean "white oak" cask in a cool cellar and let remain open till fermentation has ceased, then bung tight.
TO KEEP CIDER SWEET
No. i. A handful of hops boiled with a little treacle or honey and added to the acetified cider will assist in keeping it sweet.
No. 2. For each barrel allow eight kitchen table spoon- fuls of white mustard seed. Pour in with the cider.
No. 3. If made after freezing time cider may be kept sweet (if it is free from water) by being kept in a tem- perature just above freezing point. It may be boiled down one-fourth after making, which will be an additional safeguard against any change in it.
BOILED CIDER
Boil down till thick as molasses, then bottle. To serve it dilute with charged (carbonated) water ice cold, or hot water, spiced.
46 FRUIT RECIPES
CIDER VINEGAR
Pour half as much water on the pulp remaining after squeezing out the cider as there was of the juice. Let it ferment then press out the pulp and barrel the liquid.
Or, as apples are used in the kitchen, boil the skins and cores in as little water as possible, sweeten with a little molasses, and let ferment.
Apples which are not keeping well may be boiled and the liquor strained off, a little molasses added, and let fer- ment. With crab-apples reduce the pressed juice one- third, then treat as above.
TO DRY APPLES, ALSO TO PACK
Extremely acid fruit is best for retaining flavour when dried. Cut in slices, string or merely place on shallow trays, drying in fruit-dryer, in cool oven or sun. If dried in the sun, heat over steam before putting away to destroy any possible insect eggs, and while drying cover with mosquito netting to protect from insects. In packing apples away for winter keeping or shipping, if elder blossoms are placed between layers a delicate flavour is given.
CIDER EGG NOG
To one egg whipped, then slightly sweetened with sugar, allow one glass of cider. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg and serve with shaved ice. Or serve hot.
APPLE WATER— "A CoolingDrink in Fevers"
Pare and core three large juicy pippins and slice them into a pitcher or crock with the grated rind of a demon. On this pour one pint of boiling water, then cover close and let stand four hours. Strain and sweeten with loaf sugar.
THE APPLE 47
APPLE TEA
Roast very tart apples and pour over them boiling water, letting stand till the water is cold. This may be sweetened a little if sugar is permitted.
APPLE BRANDY, OR POMONA WINE
To six gallons of new cider add one gallon of brandy and let stand from eight months to a year before racking off. To make Apple Jack or Cider Brandy distill the cider alone.
CRAB-APPLE CHAMPAGNE
Crush fruit as for apple cider and proceed as for cider making, but let the verjuice (or crab-apple juice) stand without the mustard seed or other means for keeping it from getting "hard." At the end of two or three years the verjuice has become very similar to champagne.
APPLE WATER ICES
These may be made by more than one method. Simmer till tender a quart of apples, pared and cored; when cold put through a sieve. Have ready a syrup made according to Introductory Recipes, using one and a half pints; mix- ing with the strained apple and juice of two lemons. Freeze. Or the apple may be added to plain cider instead of to a syrup or the cider itself frozen, flavouring as liked.
Preserved or stewed apples may be frozen by packing in salt and ice five or six hours, or apple sauce, thick and flavoured with lemon or sherry, may be frozen. The sauce may be thinned as first directed and a softened tablespoon of gelatine added just as the apples are removed from the fire, stirring it till dissolved. This gives the mousse effect.
48 FRUIT RECIPES
BAKED APPLE ICE CREAM
Pare, core, and quarter ten tart apples, baking with sugar and lemon or spice (see Baked Apples). When cold add one quart rich milk and cream, scalded and cooled, and freeze.
FROZEN APPLE CUSTARD
Make the custard as for Apple Custard Pie, using either one pint of apple sauce or one pint of grated apple, and whipping in the stiff whites of the eggs after the custard is partially frozen.
FROZEN APPLE SNOW
Make as for Apple Snow, adding for each pint of snow one pint of mixed milk and cream and a trifle more sugar.
CHAPTER II THE PEAR (Pyrus communis: Malaceoe)
THE Pyrus communis, or common pear, ranks close to the apple in point of family, of abundance, lati- tudinal range and general utility. The wild pear grows throughout Europe and Asia, its branches thorny; its small, hard fruit not considered edible. But from very early times the bristling little wild tree or bushy shrub has taken kindly to cultivation. The Greeks and Romans seem to have availed themselves of this susceptibility and the legions of the latter introduced the pear into Britain. Whether grafted on quince, the mountain ash (the rowan), or wild pear stock, it flourished and now the vast majority of pears do not deserve the epithet " insipid' ■ even yet not infrequently applied by the thoughtless who judge all by the few exceptions or by those pears intended by na- ture for cooking only.
There are stores of riches in the grape sugar contained in this fruit, in its proportion of iron, in its moderate per cent, of malic, tannic, and tartaric acids, its albumen, lime, pectin, mucilage, and its relatively large proportion of potash and phosphoric acid and toothsome juiciness, the quantity and pure quality of which last " distilled water,' ' should tempt one to make up for the water one should but which one does not drink copiously enough in simple form. Such general mildness of tonic properties agrees with al- most any type of stomach and the laxative quality has a properly stimulating effect upon the intestines.
The pear may be used in almost as many forms and in
49
50 FRUIT RECIPES
very much the same manner as the apple (see "The Apple" for all desired recipes not found under "The Pear," or adapt to other fruit recipes).
RECIPES
PERRY
Perry bears the same relation to pears that cider does to apples, being the expressed juice of the fruit. Perry may be made from the ordinary pear, the better ones of the windfalls or unsalable " nubbins," but there are certain varieties known in general as "perry" pears, grown especially for this purpose. These varieties lack in fra- grance and edible qualities, being vigorously harsh, but they are much prized in Germany, France, and England, where numerous perry orchards are set out. The fer- mented perry is considered superior to cider in richness and sweetness. It contains 7 per cent, of alcohol (Enc. Brit.) and will keep in casks for three years — when bottled, longer, but it does not bear shipment as well as might be desired.
TO DRY AND PACK PEARS
Where winter pears (or those which may be laid by to mellow as late as spring) are not to be had in quantity, pears may be dried in the sun or a slow oven with the same success as are apples. This is a common practice in parts of Europe where pear tarts, stewed pears, and other dishes are concocted from the dried fruit and thoroughly relished. In packing pears place between layers of elder blossoms to add flavour.
PEARS UNCOOKED A Breakfast or Supper Dish
To vary the serving of pears an natnrel, pare, core, and slice mellow, well-flavoured fruit, using a silver knife.
THE PEAR 53
mashed pears. The addition of the whipped whites of eggs, when the fruit is partly frozen, will make the ordinary sherbert. Large pears may be hollowed out and the ice served from these instead of from dishes or glasses. A cream may be made with the ice cream or custard founda- tion given in the Introductory Recipes, adding stewed, mashed, or spiced pears.
PRESERVED PEARS
Select small pears and peel, leaving on the stems. To one pound of pears allow a pound of sugar, and to each four pounds of sugar allow one pint of water and one teaspoon- ful citric acid crystals (dissolved). Melt the sugar and acid over steam; let boil a minute after this, then set back and keep hot till needed. Meantime boil the pears with just enough water to cover. Acidulate the latter well with citric acid. When tender remove and place in the syrup for half an hour; place the fruit in hot jars and seal at once. Keep in a cool, dark, dry place.
PEARS PRESERVED IN PERRY
See Apples Preserved in Cider.
PEARS PRESERVED IN GRAPE JUICE
See Grapes.
BRANDIED PEARS
To four pounds each of peeled fruit and sugar take a pint of brandy. Cook the sugar with a quart of water, simmering two minutes after coming to a boil. Place fruit in this and let boil five minutes. Remove the pears, placing in heated jars; let syrup boil till it thickens, then add the brandy and remove at once from the fire. Pour syrup over fruit and seal. Drain off any syrup which may
54 FRUIT RECIPES
ooze from the pears when they are first taken from the fire. If the pears are allowed to lie in brandy over night after being cooked they are more certain to keep well. (See also other brandied fruits.)
PEARS PRESERVED WITH GINGER OR LEMON
Peel and quarter pears, weigh and allow a quarter pound of green ginger (scraped) to each pound of fruit. Have a syrup prepared as for preserves and in this lay the pears and ginger, proceeding as with the preserves. Lemon peel may be used instead of ginger.
BAKED PRESERVED PEARS
Any small, hard pears may be baked for preserving with the best results. Place in layers in a crock with some lemon peel; cover with water and molasses, half and half; set on the back of the stove all night and bake all next day in a slow oven. Longer cooking will not impair but im- prove if done slowly enough. The fruit will become dark red in colour. Cook down the syrup; pour over the pears when done and the fruit has been placed in heated jars.
PEAR MARMALADE
To each pound of rather juicy pears, peeled and cored, allow one and a half pounds of sugar with the grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange, or one-third part of some tart berry-marmalade or fruit-juice. Cook down as for other marmalades, skimming and stirring often.
THE PEAR 55
RAISINEE
For this French preserve, sometimes called Grape and Pear "butter," see Grapes.
PEAR JELLY
Pear jelly may be successfully made by using the richer varieties of pears not fully ripe, with the usual proportion of sugar and juice: pound for pint (see other fruit jellies), and flavoured as for apple.
PEAR CHIPS
Wipe and stem hard pears. To four pounds allow three pounds of sugar, and an eighth pound scraped green gin- ger root grated. Slice thin in bits and let stand twelve hours, then cook with juice and rind of two lemons, let- ting come slowly to a boil and cooking perhaps three hours: till clear and thick.
PICKLED PEARS
To each six pounds of pears allow a pint of cider- or wine- vinegar, three pounds of sugar, and a teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves, and ginger (in thin bags). Let the sugar, vinegar, and spices boil up and place in the resulting syrup the peeled pears, a few at a time. Cook until tender; place pears in a crock; pour over them the vinegar and let stand three days. Pour off the syrup and boil it down, then pour again over the pears (having placed them in jars) ; remove spice-bag, and seal. If tartness is desired the sugar, part or all, may be omitted.
PEAR SAUCE, PLAIN OR FOR SHORT CAKE
Make as for Apple Sauce, flavouring with spice, lemon, or other fruit flavouring, and serving as a side dish or with shortcake (see Strawberry Short Cake).
56 FRUIT RECIPES
PEAR VINEGAR
The water in which pears have been boiled for preserves may be used for vinegar or vinegar may be made from crushed pears as from apples at cider-making time. Or pears may be cut, boiled, and crushed and the resulting liquor sweetened with molasses and allowed to ferment.
THE QUINCE 61
QUINCE HONEY No. I (Cake or Tart Filling)
This will make filling for layer cake, or, thinned, a deli- cate syrup for sauces, etc. Grate two large quinces and cook till tender. Add a pound of sugar to a pint of water, cooking till the "soft ball" stage is reached when add the quince and simmer twenty minutes longer, stirring most of the time. For tarts use this with a custard.
QUINCE HONEY No. 2 (Syrup for Pancakes or Puddings)
Prepare quinces as above, using two pints of sugar to one pint of water and simmer till the syrup is clear — four or five minutes — when add the grated quince and boil six or seven minutes more before removing from the fire.
BAKED OR STEAMEDTQUINCES
Quinces make an attractive dessert baked or steamed, using the same method as for apples and pears. Grate them for variation.
QUINCE SAUCE
Stew quinces and flavour with lemon and serve, pulped or quartered, as for apple sauce. Half apple may be used instead of all quince.
QUINCE TARTS
Tarts may be filled with quince marmalade, honey, custard, sauce, or preserves, or the baked or steamed fruit. Vary them as are apple, gooseberry, and other tarts, using meringue and candied fruits or whipped cream or lattice pastry strips for the large tarts; nuts may be sprinkled over the small ones or tartlets.
QUINCE ICES
Make as for pear and apple ices, custard, cream, etc., using the quince cordial sometimes to vary the flavour.
62 FRUIT RECIPES
IN SALADS
The quince cordial or juice, freshly expressed, may be used to flavour the dressing, or the candied quince slices chopped and mixed with other fruits or vegetables.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
Quince tapioca and other lighter forms of desserts, or fritters, dumplings, etc., may be made with the quince with excellent results. See Introductory and other fruit recipes.
CHAPTER IV
THE MEDLAR AND THE LOQUAT
{Mespilus)
THE medlar, Mespilus Germanica, like the apple, pear, and quince, belongs to the Malacece, but differs from them all in being not edible until well past the mature stage. In appearance and general characteristics it more nearly resembles the plum than any other fruit, and the loquat, its cousin, the Mespilus Japonic a (Photinia or Eryiobotrya Japonica), is commonly, though erroneously, called the "Japan Plum." The latter tree is evergreen and very hand- some at all seasons. The fruit pulp is delicate and tender in consistency but until fully ripe is tart in tone. The pits, which are rather large in proportion to the fruit, are of a beautiful golden brown hue and as highly polished as if coated with shellac. The seeds resemble the peach pit in flavour but are more delicate. The yellow clusters of loquats, like enlarged, elongated drops of pale gold (though sometimes rounded and gooseberry like) need to be well rubbed with a soft cloth to remove the downy "fuzz" when the fruit is to be served uncooked.
The peeled, seeded fruit, quartered, is an excellent ad- dition to iced drinks. The juice of the uncooked fruit makes delicious loquatade, and a syrup may be made from it for bottling (see Fruit Syrups in Introductory Recipes). Almost any recipe for Northern or Southern fruits may be adapted for the preparation of the loquat, including the ices.
63
64 FRUIT RECIPES
RECIPES
LOQUATS STEWED
Loquats may be stewed when but half ripe, or when fully mature, or half and half. Rub off the fuzz; remove stems and seeds, or merely wipe off the fuzz and stew whole, and put over a moderate fire with just a little water. When partially tender sugar to taste and finish cooking.
LOQUAT JELLY
Preferably gather the loquats when full sized but still hard and only partially turned in colour. Wash and re- move blossom ends. Place on fire in cold water, barely covering with water, cooking slowly as with other fruits for jellies, till the pulp is very soft and the juice entirely free. Drain; cook down till juice is thick and cherry-coloured, when add heated sugar, pint for pint, gradually. When sugar is thoroughly dissolved cook fifteen minutes, or till it jells. The loquat makes a very beautiful, light-coloured, tart jelly, firm but exceedingly tender and delicate, re- sembling tart apple more than any other jelly.
LOQUATkMARMALADE
The fruit pulp left from the jelly may be put through a sieve and cooked down with equal quantity of sugar till of the right consistency.
LOQUAT JAM
Loquat jam, when made with the unripe fruit, as for jelly, closely resembles the cherry in colour and is not unlike it in flavour though with an individuality of its own — perhaps richer, as well as being in fragrance and flavour rather aromatic. Both the marmalade and jam
THE MEDLAR AND THE LOQUAT 65
are prettier if made from the whole, fresh fruit instead of from the jelly pulp. For the jam wash and seed the fruit, removing the blossom end and any discolouration or im- perfection. Place over the fire, barely covering with cold water and cook slowly several hours till very tender and deep red in colour. No water will be needed in addition to that first placed on the fruit as its juiciness requires reducing rather than otherwise. When cooked down add sugar in equal measure and continue to cook down till of proper consistency — two hours or more, when as much as four or five quarts are used. The ripe loquats make a yellower jam, lacking the rich colour though of excellent flavour.
CHAPTER V
THE PEACH {Amygdalus Persica, or Prunus Persica) AND APRICOT (A. or P. Armeniaca)
ANOTHER great division of fruits is the Almond or Plum family, Amygdalacece, including the almond, peach, apricot, cherry, and plum. The peach is held by some to be a distinct genus, by others is variously classed with the almond and apricot and with the plum, adding interest to the mooted question of exact origin by the fact that Darwin held the peach to be an evolutionised form of the wild almond. Alphonse de Candolle has led the theorists claiming the distinct peach origin, with China as its probable earliest home: since in that country the peach has not been found in varying forms (ap- proaching or departing from the almond) but instead, has never been unknown as a distinctive, individual fruit or tree. (The Chinese Peen-To peach, in form flattened like a tomato, is now grown to a considerable extent in parts of the semi-tropical states of North America.) The name Persica was given the peach from the supposition that it originated in Persia. It has claims upon beauty of complexion, unrivalled perhaps in the fruit kingdom, and in rich, luscious fragrance few fruits can equal it, being esteemed in almost every country of the world for its flavour and daintiness of texture
Peaches must be fully ripened and sound to be entirely wholesome uncooked but in this perfect stage have been
66
THE PEACH AND APRICOT 6^
given to even typhoid patients with success when fruits as a rule are forbidden. Also, peaches have been found beneficial in serious cases of intestinal disorders among children and adults alike. The peculiar acids of this fruit are apparently fatal to germs of the dysentery type and Holbrook quotes a physician who wrote him that in the treatment of dysentery he much preferred "ripe, sound fruit, peaches especially, to any medicine that can be sug- gested." Fresh or stewed the fruit is laxative and re- frigerant.
The seeds and flowers of peaches are used in the manu- facture of a liqueur called Persico and the bruised pits give to almost any alcoholic liquor the flavour of Noyeau. The flowers were formerly steeped to be used as a tea for their laxative quality and it is also thought they exert "to a moderate extent, a sedative influence over the nervous system" (U. S. Dispensatory). Sometimes, according to the 'same authority, they have been given in infusion for "irritability of the bladder, sick stomach, and whooping-cough.' ' As for the blossoms, it should be remembered that they have been known to cause fatal cases of poisoning among children although in the hands of physicians they are safely used (as a vermifuge), and "a syrup prepared from them is considerably used in infantile cases, on the continent of Europe." The leaves, when rubbed or steeped in hot water, give out a strong almond flavour greatly esteemed in many countries. From both the leaves and kernels, when distilled, is extracted oil, that from the kernels being frequently used as an adulterant of almond oil.
The apricot is supposed to have originated in Armenia.
The nectarine, once puzzling to botanists, is but a variation of the peach. (All recipes for peaches may be applied to nectarines and apricots.)
68 FRUIT RECIPES
RECIPES
PEACHES HALVED (Uncooked)
Select large freestones; drop into boiling water for two minutes, then into iced water, and the fruit will easily slip out of the skin. Halve the peaches; remove pits and place the fruit on ice. When ready to serve fill the cen- tres with powdered sugar, or sugar and melted marsh- mallows; join each two halves with short, fine, tooth- picks, and place in the serving dishes or glasses. Pass with them whipped cream.
PEACH SALADS
Peaches may be served half and half with bananas, or with almonds (one-fifth almonds), with celery and wal- nuts, or fine-chopped apple or pear, with French dressing, simple, or flavoured with a cordial.
PEACH SOUP No. i (Hot)
Remove skins and pits from twelve ripe peaches and stew the fruit with two or three of the cracked kernels, a cup of sugar, and two teaspoons of sago, till tender and the sago clear. Rub through a sieve then return to the sauce- pan; add half as much claret as there is juice just before serving.
PEACH AND PRUNE SOUP
See Prune Soup No. 2.
PEACH SOUP No. 2 (Cold)
Pare, stone, and chop peaches. Sprinkle over them sugar in quantity desired and let stand an hour. To a pint of juice add one-third pint of claret; place in a jug and cover with ice one hour. Serve with shaved ice in glasses.
THE PEACH AND APRICOT 75
PEACHES DRIED No. 1
Peel very ripe peaches, slice and string them in the sun, or dry on thin clean boards in oven or fruit dryer. Heat as for dried apples before packing away.
PEACHES DRIED No. 2
Peel and slice thin ripe fruit, spread on dishes, sprinkle over the slices granulated sugar, and set in moderate oven till the peaches are hot, when dry slowly in the sun or cool oven.
Peaches may also be dried as are cherries with syrup.
PEACH LEATHER
Peel and crush very ripe peaches, spread on platters, and dry in slow oven. It will be like leather when thoroughly dried. Roll it up and put away in bags. When needed for use soak over night with just a little water and it should then be ready for using without stewing and without sugar.
PEACH SAUCE PRESERVED
Take thoroughly ripe fruit, pare, stone, and cook slowly an hour. Add sugar in proportion of three-fourths pound to each four pounds of peaches. For immediate table use it will not require long cooking, but for putting up it must become dark in colour and free of juice. Seal while hot.
PEACH JAM, COOKED
Prepare as for Sauce, using a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit,. It should be very stiff when done. Placa in jars with brandy on top and seal well.
PEACH JAM, UNCOOKED
Pare and slice perfect, freestone peaches. Cover the bottom of a jar with either brown or powdered sugar and
76 FRUIT RECIPES
on this place a layer of the uncooked peaches. Alternate with the sugar till jar is full, packing down well, and leaving sugar on top. Place a layer of cotton wadding soaked in brandy on top ; tie a paper over all securely and keep in a cool dry place.
PEACH MARMALADE No. i
Pare and stone peaches, cutting pulp fine. Cook with a few of the cracked kernels over quick fire until soft, add then same weight of sugar, cook fifteen minutes longer, and place in jars.
PEACH MARMALADE No. 2
For each pound of pared, sliced fruit allow three-fourths pound of sugar. Mash well and place in crock in oven, covering and baking like beans for several hours. When cooked sufficiently to be jelly-like, remove and place in jars.
PEACH JELLY
Wash and slice but do not pare the fruit, using part un- ripe and part ripe fruit (the latter firm). Place in earthenware crock and set in moderate oven or on the back of the stove with neither sugar nor water, watching care- fully. Or the fruit may be set inside a second vessel con- taining hot water and let stand far back on the stove for twenty-four hours. Thel juice should by this be free and thick. Strain over night in cheese-cloth bag. Measure and use pound for pint of sugar and juice, heating separately before cooking together. When this juice has cooked down a little — skimming meanwhile— add sugar gradually and let boil up. If carefully made this will result in ex- cellent jelly.
CANNED PEACHES
See Canned Apples.
THE PEACH AND APRICOT 77
BRANDIED PEACHES
See Brandied Pears.
SPICED PEACHES
Peaches may be spiced in either sweet or sour form as for apples and pears.
PICKLED PEACHES
For sufficient for a two-gallon jar use twenty-five pounds of peaches and twelve pounds of sugar. (Rub the fuzz from the peaches with crash.) In the preserving kettle place two and one half quarts of vinegar with a handful of stick cinnamon, gradually adding the sugar until all is dis- solved and boiling. Place the peaches, a few at a time, in this and when they are done skim them out and place in a stone jar. Boil down the syrup a little longer, then pour over the peaches and place a weight on them. In three days pour off the syrup and boil down till quite thick. The peaches will by this have shrunk so that they will easily go into a two gallon jar. Pour the thick syrup over them; place plate on top and tie down with heavy paper. Cloves may be used instead of cinnamon or a mixture of spices as liked.
PEACH MANQpES
Rub the fuzz off of large freestone peaches; cut in half and stone. Prepare a mixture of equal parts of white mus- tard, mace, nutmeg, ginger and celery seed and fill the peach cavities. Sew or tie halves together and fill with them a stone jar three-fourths full. They may be coloured by laying among them little bags containing turmeric. In early days they were also sometimes coloured with cochineal. Whole cloves may be added to the spice or pushed into the peaches themselves. Pour cold, strong
78 FRUIT RECIPES
vinegar over the fruit or, if to be kept in a warm climate, boil the vinegar, scalding the peaches; in either case seal- ing jars at once.
PICKLED APRICOTS OR PEACHES
Place the fruit in brine for a week, then remove, wipe, and place in clean jar. Pour over them boiling vine- gar (one gallon to eight pounds of fruit) in which has been boiled one-half ounce each of whole pepper, white mustard seed and cloves, and a fourth-ounce of sliced ginger. Add one teaspoon of salt. Let stand over night. Re-heat vinegar and again pour over fruit. Repeat; add fresh to the spiced vinegar to fill up jars in which fruit is packed.
PEACH BUTTER
Pare, stone and crush very ripe peaches, and simmer in boiled cider which has been reduced to the thickness of molasses. To each gallon of the cider (after boiling) should be added a pound of sugar. To three quarts of the peach pulp allow a pint of the thick cider and sugar. This may be spiced if liked.
PEACH CATSUP
Steam the peaches whole and boil till reduced one-third. To each quart of fruit allow one pound of (loaf) sugar but do not add till juice has been boiled down one-third. Place in little bags (loosely) one teaspoon each of broken mace and whole pepper, two of cinnamon, and half a teaspoon of cloves. Put these on to boil with the vinegar with which the pulp and juice (after cooking down) must be thinned, removing before the fruit and sugar are added.
PEACH CHUTNEY
This requires much less vinegar than apple chutney and may be taken as a basis for chutney for other similar,
THE PEACH AND APRICOT 79
soft-pulped, juicy fruits. To four pounds of peaches (skins and pits removed) add one and one-fourth pints vinegar, and stew together till soft. Mix and pound to- gether a half pound each of white mustard seed, chopped onions, raisins, and sugar; one-fourth pound of scraped ginger root (green) and one-eighth pound each of garlic and red peppers (dried). When well mixed add to the peaches with three-fourths pint additional of vinegar. Cook slowly together fifteen minutes, then place in small jars.
EXTRACTS OF PEACH AND NECTARINE
To each pint of blanched peach pits add one quart of deodorised spirits. For the nectarine use one pint of nec- tarine pits and one half pint bruised peach pits and pour on them a quart of best deodorised spirits. Let stand indefinitely.
PEACH OR APRICOT WINE No. 1
Use nearly matured fruit and mash well. To each eight pounds of pulp allow one quart of water. Let it come to a boil then squeeze out the juice and to each gallon add two pounds loaf sugar. Ferment as for other wines, bottling when clear.
PEACH OR APRICOT WINE No. 2
Crack the pits of eight pounds of peaches and place in the bottom of a tub. Slice the peaches into two gallons of rain water, adding five pounds of loaf sugar, and together, skimming till no scum rises. Strain, poviv: - •;" upon the kernels, stirring, then covering till cold. Plac in this a slice of toast dipped in strong yeast and let all ferment, straining then into a cask and adding a bottle of sweet grape wine. Let stand six months then add an ounce each of gum arabic and powdered rfxalk (dissoK'ld in a little of the wine heated slowly), being careful not to
8o FRUIT RECIPES
stir up the lees. At the end of a week this may be bottled and in eight months is ready for use.
DOMESTIC PEACH BRANDY
Make with two gallons French brandy to one gallon well flavoured peaches, skinned and mashed. Add to this the pits from a peck of the fruit and let stand two months, when filter and bottle.
COMMERCIAL PEACH BRANDY
Mash eighteen pounds of peaches, not removing pits, and cover with four and three-fourths gallons of 95 % alcohol and four gallons filtered water, letting stand twenty-four hours. After mashing, straining and filtering add two and one-half quarts of sugar syrup and colour with burnt sugar.
CREME DE NOYEAU
Pound together in a mortar one-fourth pound peach apricot, or bitter almond pits and pour over them one pint water and one-half gallon spirits of wine. Cork and stir and shake each day for eight days when add a syrup made of a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Strain off the kernels and let stand another week when bottle.
PEACH VINEGAR
Use peaches which are over-ripe. Mash and mix with water in such quantity that the latter is strongly flavoured. To each gallon of this add four ounces brown sugar and a dessertspoon of yeast. Set the cask in the sun to ferment
CHAPTER VI THE CHERRY (Prunus cerasus: P. avium)
THE common garden cherry, (Amygdalacece) the type of daintily gay, merrily modest beauty, of an in- spiring, sweet tartness in flavour and of graceful decision of form, is of the brave blitheness of hue generally first noticed by children, which fact, and this alone, is evidently answerable for the nursery song of "Cherries are ripe! Cherries are ripe! Give the baby some" — since, though so attractive, cherries are very nearly the most unfit of all fruits for babies to eat ! They have appealed to human- ity from time immemorial, from the subtly fragrant blossoms of far Japan which have influenced art itself, to the gayly dangling red clusters of fruit which have always tempted the appetite of small boys of the Occident. The cherry pie has long since been commemorated in the rhyme of the "charming Billy Boy," whose sweetheart could "make a cherry pie quick as you can wink your eye," while a recent coating of immortality has been applied by the present generation in "Cheer up: cherries are ripe!" And cherries have the actual material or physical element and power of cheering up certain kinds of depression, for, aside from from their unvarying cheerfulness of front which might well have a mental effect, this little fruit is considered almost a cure for some forms of bladder and kidney troubles and its "red badge of courage" is also the symbol of the remarkable tonic properties of the tree whose bark has become famous on the continent of North America as "bitters" and phosphates, etc. These bracing decoc-
Si
82 FRUIT RECIPES
tions, as well as the alcoholic, deluding "Cherry Bounce" are, in general, manufactured from the North American wild black cherry, Prunus serotina, and the American wild Choke Cherry, Prunus Virginiana, which has the power of " calming irritation and diminishing excitability — ■ adapted theoretically to diseases in which debility of the stomach or of the system is united with general or local irritation" (U. S. Dispensatory).
The wild cherry of Europe and England, called in the latter country the "gean,'' is a source of valued food supplies to German and French country folk. Bran- dies, jellies, and other drinks or dishes are made from this cherry, and from all varieties beverages, chiefly alcoholic, are distilled. Of the latter Maraschino and Kirschwasser are the best known though a kind of Ratafia is also made from the cherry and in Turkey Creme de Noyeau is flavoured with the Oriental Mahaleb cherry pits instead of almond, peach, or apricot kernels. Maraschino is made at and about Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, where the pulp of the Marasca cherries, or Marazques, is mixed with honey and sugar or honey is added when distilling the liqueur, and the greatest care in every way is taken with the dis- tillation. Kirschwasser is the German fermented drink from cherries, and "Cherry Bounce" the American.
The cherry, like the muskmelon and nutmeg, seems to hav^e been introduced from Asia into Italy by Lucullus — about 70 B. C, and later was taken by the Romans to England. Whether red, black, yellow, or white, the cherry has always been a favourite but it must be fully matured and sweetened before it can be properly eaten since its type of acidity, while medicine to kidneys and bladder, is not welcomed by stomachs which are weak, and will quickly disorder both stomach and bowels if under-ripe and is also uncooked.
THE CHERRY 83
Cherry wood has a virtue of its own in addition to its beauty for casks made of it are said to give the finest flavour to liquors kept therein. As for the tree itself, of dimly ancient line, it has been made a particular pet by the youngest of nations from neither beauty of blossom, fruit, wood, nor medicinal value, but because Americans are equally patriots and humourists from the cradle and the cherry, linked indissolubly with that first of American nursery tales, of George Washington and his hatchet, has become a literal " family tree."
RECIPES
CHERRY SOUP
For one quart of soup pit and crush a pint of cherries; add to them the juice of one lemon, sugar to taste, and a dessertspoon of tapioca or sago. Simmer thirty minutes with a pint of water; rub smooth through a sieve and re-heat, adding one tablespoon of claret and a pinch of salt. Let cool, then place on ice before serving. Reserve a few stemmed cherries to put in the iced soup at the last.
CHERRY SALAD
Stone ripe, sweet cherries and place in the heart of each a nut — preferably hazel. Serve on lettuce with mayon- naise or with a cream or other dressing flavoured well with Maraschino. (See Introductory Recipes.)
CHERRY SANDWICHES
Mix equal parts of candied or Maraschino cherries, and chestnuts which have been boiled, blanched, and simmered in a little syrup (letting stand in this till cold). Spread long narrow saltines or thin bread and butter with the
84 FRUIT RECIPES
mixture ; placing two together and, if bread is used, cutting diagonally to form triangular sandwiches. A sprinkling \)i cress will add piquancy to the flavour.
CHERRY PUDDING
Make as for Currant Pudding. See (Garden) Currants.
UNCOOKED CHERRY BREAD PUDDING
Slice a loaf of dry bread; spread with butter; place in layers in a pudding-dish with stewed or spiced cherries poured over. Let stand a half hour and serve with a custard or German Sauce.
GERMAN CHERRY SAUCE
Crush a pound of cherries with the seeds until the "meat of the pits " is tender, then put through coarse sieve, add one pint of wine with as much sugar as desired, and boil till thick as cream. This may be spiced if liked.
CHERRY PIE
Make as for gooseberry pie or tarts, using tart red cher- ries.
CHERRY BAVARIAN CREAM
Use the foundation recipe given in Introductory Recipes, adding two tablespoons Kirschwasser or Maraschino and three-fourths cup of chopped, candied cherries.
CHERRY FLOAT
Thicken the juice from a quart of stewed and sweetened cherries with a teacup of cornstarch dissolved in cherry juice (cold) or cold water. Add juice of a lemon or orange and when cooled pour over the cherries which should be ready in the serving dish.
THE CHERRY 85
FROSTED CHERRIES
Frost as for grapes, leaving on the stems. See Grapes.
CHERRY CAKE ICING
Allow four tablespoons of cherry juice to one cup granu- lated sugar, cooking together until the syrup threads. Beat this into the stiff-whipped white of an egg.
CHERRY ICE
Stone and mash two quarts of cherries and place over them one quart of sugar and a wineglass of claret. Let stand five or six hours, adding to them the crushed kernels of ten cherries. Strain and freeze.
Or, use the syrup from stewed or spiced cherries. For sherbet add the usual whipped whites of eggs. (See Introductory Recipes.)
CHERRY ICE CREAM
Make the foundation ice cream or custard (given in Introductory Recipes), flavouring with cherry syrup, cordial, spiced cherries, Maraschino, or other form of pre- served cherries. Use a few of the crushed kernels to flavour additionally .
FROZEN CHERRIES
Use the ripest cherries of the darkest varieties. Stone and place over them a quart of sugar to two quarts of cherries. Let stand an hour or more; add a wineglass of Maraschino or cordial; place in freezer; pack and let stand in salt and ice six hours.
CHERRIES WITH ICE CREAM
Serve vanilla ice cream with brandied, spiced, or stewed cherries as a hot or cold sauce. (Unless fresh-picked,
86 FRUIT RECIPES
uncooked cherries are very ripe indeed and very sweet the combination is not always a safe one.)
CHERRY JELLY No. i
Let cherries not fully mature stand in a crock on the back of the stove, or in slow oven till all juice is extracted, then strain, cook down one-third, and measure, allowing one pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Heat separately, then cook together twenty minutes or until it jells.
CHERRY JELLY No. 2 (With Currant)
Use equal parts of cherries and currants, proceeding as for No. i.
CHERRY JELLY No. 3 (With Raspberry) Use equal parts of raspberry and cherry as above (No 2).
FOUR FRUIT JELLY (Old Recipe)
Use equal parts cherry, strawberry, raspberry, and cur- rant, stoning cherries and saving juice which exudes. Mix and crush, then squeeze hard; strain through linen bag and measure. Allow a pound and two ounces of loaf sugar for each pint of juice; put together in preserving kettle, boiling and skimming. It should jell after twenty minutes boiling; may take a little longer.
CHERRY JAM No. 1
Stone cherries and weigh, allowing equal parts of fruit and sugar. Place in preserving kettle and let stand over night, then boil till the jam jellies from the spoon. Place. in jam pots.
CHERRY JAM No. 2 (With Currant Juice)
To six pounds of cherries (after stoning) allow two pounds it currants. Mash and place currants with half the pits of
THE CHERRY 87
the cherries, cracked, in a double boiler and cook thirty minutes, after this straining through linen bag. Add this liquor to the cherries (mashed) and cook to half the original quantity. Have ready a thick syrup and add six pounds of it to the fruit, stirring, skimming, and cooking till the syrup beads. Stir in either two wineglasses of Kirsch- wasser or Maraschino; remove, and fill jars.
CHERRY JAM No. 3
Cook together three pints each of cherries and currant or raspberry juice till reduced one-half when add three pounds of sugar. Cook as for Cherry Jam No. 2.
PRESERVED CHERRIES No. 1
Preserve cherries with the usual pound for pound of sugar and fruit, making a syrup with either a little cold water or light wine. Grape Juice may also be used. (See Grapes.)
PRESERVED CHERRIES— WITH LEMON No. 2
To each six pounds of tart fruit allow the rind of three lemons, simmering the latter thirty minutes, then straining of! the water. Meantime cut fine the lemon pulp, freeing it from seeds and heavy ''rag. " Make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to one pint of water (using that in which the lemon peel simmered). Skim, boil and add cherries, letting boil five minutes. Add the lemon pulp and boil three minutes longer, then put fruit in jars, pouring over it the hot syrup.
PRESERVED CHERRIES— WITH CURRANTS No. 3
To eight pounds of cherries, stoned, add two pounds of stemmed currants and sugar equal in weight to the fruit. After the sugar has dissolved cook together slowly thirty minutes.
88 FRUIT RECIPES
CANNED CHERRIES
In canning cherries use tart fruit. Allow three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Figs, pears, or pine- apples may be canned with the cherries or added later ; thus also with jam or preserves.
BRANDIED CHERRIES
Use, preferably, white cherries. Leave a bit of stem on each one. Place in layers in jars and fill up with brandy, letting stand two days. Have ready a thick syrup, drain the liquor from the cherries and add equal quantity of boiling syrup to the brandy. Strain and pour over the fruit, letting stand this time twelve hours — the fruit bottled and corked. Next day fill up any space with syrup till just below corks, then seal.
PICKLED CHERRIES (Uncooked)
Clip, leaving an inch of the stems. Place in jars in layers, alternating with thick layers of powdered sugar. Fill three- fourths full. Fill up with cold, spiced vinegar and seal; or thin bags of spices may be placed among the cherries and plain vinegar poured over fruit and sugar.
PICKLED CHERRIES (Cooked)
To two pounds of cherries allow one pound of sugar and one-half pint vinegar. Pour this boiling hot over the cherries. If the yellow cherries are used place them in the kettle and boil a few minutes with the syrup. Add spice or not and omit part of the sugar if desired more tart.
CHERRY CATSUP
To each pound of cherries allow a pound of sugar, boiling together, then straining. To every quart of the liquor allow
THE CHERRY 89
a teaspoon each of mace, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and a
half teaspoon of cloves. Boil these with the syrup ; strain
and add to the crushed fruit passed through a sieve. Boil
till thick and reduce with strong vinegar. Bottle while
hot.
CHERRY BRANDY
To each quart of juice resulting from crushed cherries (uncooked) allow a gallon of spirits or brandy, add the pits, crushed, let stand three weeks and strain.
DOMESTIC KIRSCHWASSER
Pour a gallon of brandy over a pound of garden or wild ripe cherries or plums, crushing well both fruit and kernels. Add two pounds of sugar and let stand five weeks, when strain and bottle.
The imported Kirschwasser is made by letting the wild, ripe, black cherry ferment in its own juice, after bruising the pulp of the fruit, and stirring several times daily after fer- mentation has begun. At this stage the bruised kernels are added and the mixture let stand for some weeks before
straining.
CHERRY CORDIAL
To a gallon of strained juice add two pounds sugar and boil thirty minutes. Add one half pint spirits (preferably brandy), let cool and bottle.
CHERRY PUNCH
Pit and mash one pound of cherries and place in bowl with the juice of three lemons, two oranges, and a slice or two of pineapple, covering with one pint of sugar. Let stand an hour when press and strain. Heat this and add a quart each of carbonated water and claret, a sliced banana and one fourth pound of very ripe cherries or the candied or (whole) preserved fruit.
go FRUIT RECIPES
CHERRY JUICE AND PRESERVED SYRUP
Prepare and cook as for jelly, for the simple juice adding a half-pint of sugar to each quart of juice and for the syrup making an addition of one pint of sugar to each pint of fruit juice.
CHERRY SHRUB
Cherry shrub is a modified form of the syrup. To each quart of cherries add one cup of water and stew till soft. Press and strain the fruit; allow a cup of sugar for each pint of juice; boil to a syrup; strain, and bottle while hot.
CHERRY BOUNCE OR WILD CHERRY RUM
On four pounds of wild cherries, mashed with the pits broken and bruised, pour five quarts of rum. Let stand in stone jar or crock two weeks, stirring daily. Then press the fruit well, add five and one-fourth quarts of water in which have been dissolved two and one-half pounds of sugar. Filter and bottle.
CHERRY VINEGAR (For Flavouring Salads, Etc.)
Stem and crush Morella cherries, allowing for each quart of cherries two quarts of vinegar. Let stand four weeks, when strain and bottle.
CHERRY VINEGAR
Cover several bushels of mashed cherries with water and let stand forty-eight hours in a tub. Drain and press through a bag. To the resulting liquor add half as much water and to each half- gallon of the mixture two ounces of sugar. Let ferment.
DRIED CHERRIES No. I
Stone and spread in thin layers on earthenware ; sprinkle sugar over and dry in slow oven, the hot sun, or fruit-dryer.
THE CHERRY qi
DRIED CHERRIES No. 2
Stew cherries with a little sugar (no water) then spread on earthenware and dry in slow oven. Cook down the syrup and when the fruit is dry pour it over the cherries, a little each day till all is used, drying again in the oven and re- peating till all the syrup is used.
CANDIED CHERRIES
There are several methods of candying cherries or any fruit. One method is to use pound for pound of sugar and fruit, placing sugar in a kettle, allowing for each pound a scant half-cup of water and simmering till dissolved. Skim, and when the syrup is boiling add the cherries. Let the fruit cook very slowly until translucent, when pour off the syrup, spread fruit in dishes, and dry in a slow oven or the sun for ten hours or until dry. Sprinkle with sugar and put away in layers.
The second method, which is better for heavier fruits, but may also be applied to cherries, is to make a lighter syrup, using a half-pint of water to each pint of sugar and letting come to a boil, cooking then for two minutes. Pour then over the fruit and let all stand a day and night. Drain ' add to the syrup half the quantity of sugar used the day previous and boil until this is dissolved. Pour over the fruit and let all stand for forty-eight hours. Repeat the process, letting fruit stand in the syrup four different times, when drain and wash in cold water.
If to be glazed the fruit should be dipped in syrup (as for crystallising), then dried as quickly as possible in the open air or by electrical fans. If to be crystallised dip in a syrup which will string (like candy) from the spoon and dry in oven or sun very slowly.
In some places the fruit for candying is first (after wash- ing, wiping, and cutting as required) soaked in brine, then
92 FRUIT RECIPES
placed in boiling water, the time depending upon the kind of fruit and its stage of maturity.
MARASCHINO RECIPES
In Zara, Dalmatia, there are various special dishes made with the Marasquin or Maraschino, as ''Maraschino Jelly" and "Crime de Maraschino.'" For the former beat well the yellows of ten eggs with a little sugar and about one-fourth as much cream. Heat slowly and care- fully till it thickens well, then let cool, add Maraschino to taste, and place in a mould to harden. For the Crime de Maraschino whip cream till stiff, add a little sugar, a few drops of vanilla, one tablespoon Maraschino, and one-half as much of powdered macaroons as of whipped cream. Mix well and serve in tall glasses. Delightful drinks may be made by using iced orange- or pineapple- or other fruit- ade (mixed with carbonated water, as a basis, adding sugar and Maraschino to taste). Or iced tea may be the foundation.
CHAPTER VII
THE PLUM (Common Garden Plum: Prunus domes- tica: Amygdalacece)
THE Prunus or plum, considered as an individual fruit, has again under its division various kinds of plums, all of which are supposed to have originated from the Sloe or Blackthorn, or Prunus spinosa, from which the Bullace (Prunus insititia) is considered the next step, a second or middle stage. Concerning this, as with the peach, there is still a little ambiguity, since the three are in many ways as different as in other points the resemblance is marked. The red, cherry-plum, or Myrobalan, is thought to be next of kin, onward, from the Bullace. The plum has been found wild nearly all over Asia and from Asia its introduction into Russia and other parts of Europe was evidently very early. The damson plums are said to take their name from Damascus where they were first known.
The Beach Plum (Prunus maritima), and the wild red and yellow plum (Prunus Americana) , with the Chickasaw (P. Chicasa) — all of them wild American species — furnish variety of form and colour rivalled only by the domestic, cultivated species all over the world. Their rich smooth- ness often tempts the palate before the fruit is properly ripened, which sometimes leads to the belief that it is the plum which is at fault. The traditional "sugar plum" and the fetching rhyme of Jack Horner point to an ancient delight in the fruit which gradually attached itself as a
93
94 FRUIT RECIPES
general term to sweetmeats or stood as the symbol of all sugared and particularly mysterious goodies.
The leaves of the sloe are sometimes steeped to be used as tea, and the fruit, which is so astringent as to stop the flow of blood, is, when unripe, not infrequently pickled, resulting in an excellent resemblance to olives.
Prunes, the dried form of certain varieties of plums, are as food the most valuable of all of them. Over a century ago Richard Brook declared them "both food and physick" and such they arc to-day. A German chemist, Bonneberg, has extracted crystallisable sugar from prunes equal to cane sugar. With their large amount of nitrogenous ele- ments and great percentage of sugar the nourishing qualities of prunes are indisputable and virtually unsur- passed among fruits and, in the sense of being fine for the nerves, may be termed "brain food." They are laxative, giving this property to water in which they may be stewed and which, therefore, is sometimes used as a vehicle for or addition to purgative medicines. Like other dried fruits, prunes should be pretty well softened — soaked or stewed — that they may be thoroughly masticated and digested, for they are a concentrated food and their skins of a texture requiring deliberate processes whether of softening or chewing. Like other plums, or plums in less mature stages, prunes are apt to cause unpleasant sensations of griping when eaten in any great quantity at one time.
In Hungary a brandy is distilled from prunes called Zwctschenbrannwein, which contains about 40 per cent, of alcohol. In parts of France a strong alcoholic beverage is distilled from plums by mixing honey and flour with them ; Kirschwasser is sometimes manufactured from wild plums; a pleasant wine is made from various kinds — wild or culti- vated— and where apples are added in process of fermenta- tion a strong liquor results.
THE PLUM 95
RECIPES
PLUM SOUP
Make with large sweet plums, as for cherry soup, or use part plums and part cherries. (See Fruit Soups, Intro- ductory Recipes.)
PLUM SALADS
Greengages make one of the prettiest of fruit salads. They may be used with bananas — halved or cubed — with good effect. Sprinkle powdered sugar over and let stand an hour or under before serving, or marinate in olive oil, flavoured with a cordial or liqueur , or use the cordial alone, serving with whipped cream. (See Introductory Recipes for Fruit Salads.)
WILD PLUM MARMALADE
Cover well with water and cook wild red plums until soft; let stand till cool, then drain and put through a hoarse sieve. Use pound for pound of fruit and sugar, cooking down till thick. The water in which the plums were simmered may be added to the fruit and sugar or not, as preferred, as it may be set aside for other uses.
SWEET PLUM MARMALADE
If plums are very large, soft, sweet , and thoroughly mature, peel and remove seeds and skins. They will require no water. Place in crock and proceed as with peach jelly to extract juice. Strain this off, through sieve, and add two-thirds as much sugar as pulp. Simmer slowly, stir- ring carefully, and cook twenty minutes or until thick. The fruit juice may be added' or not.
PLUM AND CRAB APPLE MARMALADE
See Crab Apple Marmalade.
96 FRUIT RECIPES
DAMSON PLUM JAM
Wash, halve, and pit the damsons, barely cover with water and cook till skins break, when add pound for pound of sugar to the fruit and juice and cook down till thick. For marmalade cook with the stones, putting through a sieve or colander to remove pits when fruit is soft, then cooking fifteen minutes with the sugar.
APRICOT AND PLUM JAM
Use half and half of apricot and plum and make by usual method for jams. The apricots may be used dried and soaked or steamed.
PLUM AND LEMON JAM
Use with greengages, the grated rind and juice of a lemon for each quart of fruit.
PLUM JELLY No. i
If the plums are very tart or bitter a little soda may be added, about one dessertspoonful for each peck of fruit, letting all come to a boil. Drain and add fresh water, barely enough to cover, cooking down till plums are tender. Strain through a flannel bag (over night if possible; a cheese cloth bag will facilitate matters but it must not be squeezed). Let cook down one-fourth; skim and add sugar in equal proportion to weight of fruit. When sugar has dissolved the juice will jell in twenty minutes or under.
PLUM JELLY No. 2
Use wild plums, the fruit or juice — one-third or one-fourth part plums — with juice of crab apples. This combination makes a beautiful colour and delicious flavour.
THE PLUM 97
PLUMS SPICED
When making marmalade with plums that do not re- quire soda (for bitterness or extreme acidity) save the water poured off after simmering to tenderness and cook down one-fourth or till rather thick. To a quart of this juice add a pint each of sugar and vinegar, a teaspoon of allspice and one-half teaspoon each of mace, cloves, and cin- namon. Pour, after boiling thirty minutes, over fresh, ripe plums which have (each) been pricked in several places. Place in heated jars; cover and let stand twelve hours; drain; re-cook syrup and pour over plums. Re- peat, letting syrup thicken to one-half the last cooking. Seal while hot. A syrup of the sugar and vinegar may be used without adding fruit juice.
PLUM BUTTER
In jelly-making the plums left may be put through a sieve, then placed on stove with equal quantity of sugar, cooking an hour or longer, till thick as desired. This may be spiced if liked. (See Peach Butter.)
PLUM CATSUP
To four quarts plums (preferably damsons) add one quart water, cooking very slowly till fruit is tender, when press through coarse sieve and return to kettle. Add one pound sugar, one-half teaspoon each of cloves, allspice, and pepper, and one of cinnamon. Cook till thick as wished and bottle while hot.
WILD PLUM CATSUP
To each five pounds of plums take two and one-half pounds sugar cooking, crushing, and putting through sieve. To each quart of juice add a generous half-pint of vinegar and spice to taste. Cook twenty minutes and bottle.
98 FRUIT RECIPES
PLUM PASTE
For this use tart but juicy plums and cook in their own
juice until soft. Remove stones and press pulp through
sieve; weigh, and replace on stove. Allow and set aside
half this weight in sugar. Cook pulp slowly an hour
before adding sugar; let latter dissolve and boil one minute.
Pour the mass into earthen dishes in quarter-inch thickness,
and dry slowly in cool oven. Remove and pack away for
use in ornamenting puddings or cakes or to dilute and serve
as sauce.
PLUMS DRIED WITH SUGAR
Cut open plums of some sweet variety, but do not re- move stones. Place on plates and sprinkle sugar over fruit, setting in a slow oven. The sugar will be absorbed by the plums, when add more sugar and repeat as long as there is juice sufficient to take it up. Pack in layers in jars.
TO DRY PLUMS WHOLE ("American Prunes")
Take ripe purple plums and spread on earthen dishes. Dry in the sun, putting them out each day to dry eight or ten hours, or use a cool oven, turning the fruit over fre- quently.
PLUM LEATHER
Remove the pits of thoroughly ripe greengages and mash
the fruit, then proceed as with peach leather. Add sugar
to the plums.
PRESERVED PLUMS
With'the common wild or blue plums they maybe steamed or dropped for a minute or two in boiling water to loosen the skin, which may then easily be removed. After this proceed as with other preserves.
With other plums prick the skins in several places with a large needle to keep them from bursting, then place in
THE PLUM 99
layers in preserving kettle, allowing same amount of sugar.
Let all come to a boil slowly ; take out plums with skimmer;
drain, and spread on plates in the sun. Cook down the
syrup slowly for half an hour, skimming often; place
plums in this for ten minutes (boiling them). Drain and
dry as before and when quite cold place in jars, heated
pouring the boiling syrup over the fruit and sealing a
once.
PICKLED PLUMS No. I
Pour over hard, unripe plums which have been washed, dried, and pricked in a number of places, boiling, spiced vinegar, repeating three times.
PICKLED PLUMS No. 2
Plums of any kind may also be pickled like cherries ^cold), placed in jars in layers, alternating with layers of sugar; cold vinegar poured over, and sealed.
BRANDIED PLUMS No. 1
Select greengages which are full-sized but still hard, and
place in layers in jars. To each pint of white brandy allow
two and one-half ounces granulated sugar; pour over and
seal tight.
BRANDIED PLUMS No. 2
Make a syrup as for preserves. When thick add two- thirds part of brandy and pour over the fruit.
PLUM WINE
To four gallons of damsons add five and a half gallons of soft water. Simmer till tender, when strain; add fifteen pounds of sugar and six ounces red tartar. Strain and let ferment as with other wines. Or a syrup may be made of the sugar and water and cooked with the plums two
ioo FRUIT RECIPES
hours. One-fourth pint of yeast may be added to this and let ferment ten days covered. With either formula the bruised kernels of half the plums should be added to the mixture and let stand till after fermentation.
PLUM BRANDY
Simmer two gallons of greengages (in barely enough water to cover) till soft. Add two pounds sugar and a gallon of brandy and let stand corked three months, when filter.
Or cover two gallons uncooked mashed plums with one gallon of brandy, adding the cracked stones and kernels, letting stand as above.
PLUM VINEGAR
For two quarts of plums allow a gallon of water and let stand twenty-four hours. Add one-half pint sugar for each gallon of liquid ; place in barrel in warm place (where it should be shaken each day while fermenting.)
PLUM TRIFLE
Cook plums slowly till soft when rub through sieve and let cool. To each cup of pulp add the whites of three eggs beaten stiff and a little sugar. Drop a spoonful of this on cups two-thirds full of a simple custard, letting the fruit meringue heap up well. Serve cold.
PLUM DUFF
Mix with a sweet soft biscuit dough chopped plums (fresh or dried), using one quart of plums to each pint of flour, and tie up in a well-dredged pudding cloth, boiling hard three hours. A simple stiff batter pudding (see Introductory Recipes) may be used with the fruit instead
See Raisins. See Raisins.
THE PLUM 101
PLUM PUDDING PLUM CAKE PLUM ICES
Crack half the kernels and bruise the pits, boiling them in the syrup or hot milk to extract the flavour, then strain. With damsons use no pits. Then proceed as for general directions in Introductory Recipes.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
For tarts, puddings, and all other forms of fruit dishes see Introductory Recipes or these for other fruits.
PRUNE RECIPES
PRUNE SOUP No. i
Soak one pound of prunes in one quart of cold water, first washing well. In the morning place on the back of the stove with an additional generous pint of water, letting come slowly to the simmering point. Add a little cinna- mon and lemon peel and two tablespoons sago or tapioca, letting barely simmer until prunes are tender and the sago or tapioca clear, when stir in one-half cup of claret; let boil up, then remove immediately and serve.
PRUNE SOUP No. 2
Use one-third prunes and two-thirds peaches, fresh or dried, if the latter, soak, simmer, and mash to a pulp through a sieve. Dilute with boiling water; two pints to each pint of fruit and thicken with a dessertspoon of corn- starch.
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STEWED PRUNES
Wash well, then soak over night and stew (whole) in same water with juice of an orange or a little sherry, and English walnuts.
PRUNES SPICED
Prunes may be very simply spiced by stewing, as above, with the addition of a little lemon peel and a half-teaspoon each of allspice and cinnamon, or spicing as for plums, pears, etc., allowing a cup of vinegar to each pint of the dried prunes. (See plums, etc.)
STUFFED PRUNES
Soak large prunes over night then make an incision at one end large enough to remove stones, and fill space with chopped nuts and sugar; roll the prunes after this in sugar, then dry. May be kept ten days before using.
PRUNE CROQUETTES
Stiffen prune pulp (prepared as for soup) with fine cracker or breadcrumbs, adding also, if liked, chopped nuts; roll in egg, then in crumbs, and fry in deep kettle of boiling fat.
PRUNE BETTY AND BREAD PUDDING
Make first as for apple u Brown Betty." For bread pud- ding see Introductory Recipes, and Pear Bread Pudding.
PRUNE DUMPLINGS AND SUET PUDDING Make as directed in Apple and Peach recipes.
PRUNE PONE OR BREAD
Scald one-half pint cornmeal; stir into it two cups of flour (preferably one of graham and one of white) ; one- half cup molasses; one cup each sour milk and washed,
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chopped, dried prunes. Use with milk one scant teaspoon soda. Steam in a mould three hours or bake two (moder- ate oven). Serve with sweet sauce or rich milk.
PRUNE CAKE
Have ready a cup of chopped nuts and two of chopped, dried, steamed prunes. Alternate these in layers with cake batter made with three eggs, one and one-half cups sugar, three-fourths cup sweet milk, one-half cup butter, and one teaspoon baking-powder sifted through three cups of flour. Bake in moderate oven till done through. Or this may be all stirred together.
PRUNE ROLL
Make as for Apple Roly Poly, baking or steaming.
PRUNE SHORTCAKE
Flavour stewed prunes with orange, cherry, or other tart fruit juice, mash to a pulp and serve as for strawberry shortcake. (See Strawberries.)
PRUNE TART
Line sides of baking-dish with pastry and fill middle of dish with fresh or soaked, pitted prunes. Sprinkle over them sugar with a tablespoon of flour and bake. When fruit is tender and juicy pour over it the yolks of three eggs, beaten with a spoonful of cream, one-half cup each of sugar and cake crumbs. Bake till done when place on top a meringue made with the whites of the eggs and half a cup of sugar flavoured with vanilla. Let brown.
SHERRIED PRUNES
Wash, then soak prunes over night, simmering next day, in very little water, till tender enough to pit. Have soaking
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a half-box of gelatine (this quantity to each original quart of prunes put to soak) and place prunes with the gelatine in stewpan till gelatine is thoroughly melted. Add a heaping teaspoon of sugar, the grated juice and rind of two oranges and one-half cup of sherry; remove from fire; let cool, then place on ice to chill. This will not make a solid form but should be of the consistency of thick custard.
PRUNE SPONGE
This may be made with the prune pulp instead of the whole fruit. (See Introductory Recipes.)
PRUNE GELATINE
Allow one-half box of gelatine to each pound of prunes which should be soaked over night (after thorough washing), simmered fifteen minutes, and pitted. Have the gelatine soaking in cold water — one-half pint of water to each half box of gelatine — and when soft pour on it one pint of boiling water with juice of two lemons and one and one- half cups of sugar. Let cool, stirring till it thickens slightly when place half of this in a wet mould. When firm lay on it the prunes and pour over them the rest of the jelly.
The gelatine may be made into plain lemon or wine jelly, instead of being merely flavoured with lemon. Serve with whipped cream.
PRUNE SOUFFLE
Take one-half pound stewed prune pulp (prepared as for soup) ; add juice of one lemon, three-fourths cup of sugar, and the stiff-whipped whites of four eggs. Turn into the souffle dish, sprinkling sugar over the top and baking m brisk oven ten minutes, or till brown.
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INDIVIDUAL PRUNE PUDDINGS
Make as above but bake in cups or ramekins, serving cold with whipped cream.
"PRUIN SAUCE" (Squire Hardcastle)
"Certainly there is no better relish for game, mutton, lamb, fowls of every sort, even roast pork, provided it be tender and crisp enough. Wash a pound of small prunes and put them on in plenty of cold water with the juice of two lemons and their thin yellow peel, four blades of mace, two dozen whole cloves, and a bunch of whole allspice, reinforced with a single peppercorn. Cook for two hours, simmering gently and filling up as the water wastes. Then put in two cups of sugar and simmer another hour until the syrup is thick and rich. Then add a half cup of cider vinegar, let boil five minutes, and your sauce is done. It is in truth a very rich, sweet pickle, which will keep indefinitely. Martha McCulloch Williams."
PRUNE SNOW
This is made as for Prune Souffl6 but served at once, uncooked.
PRUNE ICES
For a simple ice simmer one pound of prunes till tender, remove pits, and put through coarse sieve. This may be used with the foundation syrup for water ices, adding juice of one lemon for each pint of the mixture. It may also be added to the foundation ice cream or custard (see Introductory Recipes), or the stewed prunes, pitted, may be packed and frozen (whole) with the addition of any tart fruit juice.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
For custards, tapioca, etc., see Introductory Recipes.
CHAPTER VIII THE NORTHERN PAPAW (Asimina triloba)
THE common wild Northern, American papaw, Asimina triloba, belongs to the Anonacea, or Custard Apple Family, which has very interesting tropical members — ■ in fact, according to Gray, they are "all tropical except the single genus, Asimina, Papaw of the United States." Yet the tropical papaw of the West Indies, the Carica Papaya, is an entirely different fruit — not related, as so often supposed to be.
The wild Northern papaw inspires extremes of admira- tion or dislike as a fruit food, but those who decry it are very often those who once were too fond and over-indulged in its richness. Northerners are not accustomed to using it in any way except "out of hand," but it may be baked or used in delicate desserts such as gelatine, cornstarch, or egg combinations, even using it as filling for tarts. For tarts it may be spiced and used as is pumpkin-pulp (cooked) for pies.
The papaw has fine tonic qualities but it is so rich and nourishing a food that it is anything but "light" and should not be used in great quantity in connection with other concentrated, or with lighter foods, if the latter "spread the board" in great abundance.
106
THE GRAPE 119
SNOW GRAPES
Wash and dry carefully bunches of grapes, large or cut into smaller clusters. Fasten a looped string to each stem. Whisk the white of an egg partially and in this dip the clusters then sift over them powdered sugar till they are thickly covered. Hang by the strings over plates or lay on platters and set on ice for several hours.
GRAPE SHERBET OR WATER ICE
Make a syrup of three-fourths pound sugar to a pint of water. When cool add one pint of grape juice and freeze. A tablespoon of orange or lemon juice brings out the flavour. For the sherbet add the usual whipped eggs when half frozen.
GRAPE ICE CREAM
This may be made with the fresh or preserved grape juice. Prepare a simple custard or ice cream foundation (See Introductory Recipes). Sweeten well when put on the stove; let scald, and cool, then partly freeze before adding the grape juice (in proportion of one pint grape juice to one quart of ice cream or custard mixture).
RAISINS STEWED WITH APPLES
See Apples.
RAISIN-CURRANT JAM
See Currants.
SAUCE OF RAISINS AND CURRANTS
Stem and mash a quart of ripe currants and place with them three-fourths pound of brown sugar. When these have come to boiling point and have been skimmed mix in three-fourths pound of seeded raisins or the smaller
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seeded raisins. Let all cook together till raisins are thoroughly soft, skimming well and stirring after skim- ming. Let cool and serve as sauce or dessert.
RAISIN WINE AND SHERRY
See Grape recipes above.
RAISINS AND RICE
To three-fourths cup of rice allow one cup of raisins. Have washed and dried the rice and place it in rapidly boiling water (two quarts, salted) for fifteen minutes, when it should be quite tender and flaky. Remove and drain in colander and steam over boiling water. Have the raisins washed and simmered till tender in just a little water. When the rice is done mix raisins and juice with it and serve.
RAISIN RICE PUDDING
Allow one tablespoon of rice to a quart of milk, salted. Boil together half an hour, then place in baking-dish with one cup of washed raisins and bake an hour, stirring fre- quently (a little sugar may be added if liked). The last half hour the crust should be allowed to form before stirring in; the last time let brown lightly and remove from oven.
ENGLISH PLUM CAKE
One pound of flour; four ounces each of drippings or butter, Sultana raisins and currants; six ounces sugar; two ounces candied peel of orange or lemon; two eggs; two teaspoons baking-powder; grated rind one lemon and a scant half pint of milk. Take an extra ounce of sugar (use for this the lump or cube sugar) and burn it brown in a saucepan, then pour in on it the milk; stir till it is coloured well; strain and cool it. Rub the drippings into the flour,
THE GRAPE 121
add sugar and the eggs well beaten, the Sultanas and candied peel, and milk. Bake nearly two hours.
ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING
One pound each of bread-crumbs, flour, suet, currants, and raisins; one-half pound each of almonds, candied citron, and sugar; one short pint West Indian molasses (New Orleans) ; one orange grated ; eight eggs ; one nut- meg grated; one teaspoon each of salt, cloves, ginger, and allspice. Prepare raisins and currants, then dredge with flour and mix with the chopped citron and blanched al- monds. Mix the suet with the flour, crumbs, sugar, salt, spices, and orange peel, adding next the eggs, milk, and fruit. Scald and dredge a large, strong pudding-cloth and lay on it the pudding; tie well and daub the string- hole with dough. The pudding must be placed in boiling water and boil eight hours, but it may be boiled six or seven hours some days before needed and finished the day it is served.
CURRANT LOAF
To a quart of flour add a quarter pound of butter, and a half cup of sugar, rubbing in well. Scald a pint of milk and cool, adding a half pint of cold water. Dissolve in this a small yeast cake or tablet and add to the flour (making a very soft, thin dough), letting rise until light, which will be under three hours. Add two or three beaten eggs and a cup and a half to two cups of currants, floured, stirring and setting to rise again in a greased cake-pan. In two hours bake in temperate oven for about an hour.
CHAPTER XI THE OLIVE (plea Europcza)
TO STATE that the olive has from an unremembered limit of time been the symbol of wisdom, peace, chastity, and victory, is to concentrate volumes of pane- gyrics. And there are truly ages of experience eloquently suggested in the very repression of intensity of colouring possessed by the silent, dignified, mystic-looking gray- green trees which live on indefinitely through centuries. Typifying the fat of those lands "flowing with milk and honey" which across the seas stretch back into impene- trable dimness, and its fruit literally giving it forth, its leaves resemble rather the muscular tissues of ancient Greek youths whose graceful bodies were not per- mitted to accumulate unnecessary or soft flesh, for these slim, somewhat willow-like leaves are apparently almost devoid of sap, firm to the point of stiffness in texture.
The olive of European and Asiatic countries, now also thoroughly a product of American-Calif ornian soil, growing, too, even on south walls in parts of southern England, is known to the world through its oil, its pickled and dried fruits. The first is often adulterated with those excellent oils of the cottonseed and peanut (which should be allowed to appear under their own names, however) and poppy and other oils, but the adulteration is the more easily detected that olive oil congeals at a higher temperature than the other oils. It is the fleshy part of the fruit instead of the seed which gives the oil and of this there are several grades, the virgin oil, or best grade, being carefully pressed from
THE OLIVE 123
olives plucked before perfectly mature. Other grades are manufactured from whole olives at other stages or conditions, or from the already pressed pulp thrown into boiling water, from which the fat is skimmed, and some of the lower grades (for Castile and other soaps, etc.) are procured by certain processes of fermentation.
It is a matter of medical history that olive oil is nourish- ing, fattening, laxative, and easily digested; that it is soothing to the stomach and intestinal tract and lessens the harmful effect of acrid poisons or other harsh fluids. It is one of the greatest beautifiers known, a cupful each day building up the whole system, toning the nerves, and making the flesh firm — the skin soft. It is a soothing and relaxing food for the skin; in some countries is thought (so applied) to be a preventive of the plague and in the earlier stages of the disease to sometimes even cure it.
For culinary purposes it is in salad dressings that olive oil gives the artistic and gastronomic effects that tend toward health (when combined with sufficient simplicity) and enriches the blood. (For proportion and combination for salads see Introductory Recipes.)
The plum-like fruit of the olive when unripe and un- pickled is not pleasing in flavour, resembling a combina- tion of pepper, salt, and vinegar, with a peculiar acrid touch. But pickled the olive becomes with most people a much desired article of diet, acting as a spur to the palate as well as being a source of nourishment and by some claimed to assist in the digestion of other foods. (For Imitation Olives see Index to Plums.)
Olive wood is susceptible of an unusual polish which brings out strange, beautiful spots and streaks of cloudy black merging into green and yellow hues. The leaves and bark were once supposed to possess qualities similar to those of cinchona bark and the gum also was
i24 FRUIT RECIPES
thought to have health-giving elements. To-day only certain chemical extracts (prepared chiefly in France) call forth healing power from the leaves and in such prep- arations are sometimes given in fevers, but the gum is used almost entirely for perfumery where used at all, as among the Italians.
There is a species of American olive, The Devil-wood, (Olea Americana) , which grows wild in some of the more southern states, which has a flower attractive for its sweet scent, and its fruit is considered fit subject for pickling.
Save the wild crab apple blossom the sweet or Fragrant Olive {Olea fragrans or Osmanthus fragrans) of Japan and China, has no rival in the botanical world in delicate yet distinctly penetrating and rarely exquisite fragrance.
CHAPTER XII MELONS
THE national fondness for watermelons, for spicy nut- megs, and their kind is so intense; so inseparable seem our hot summer sun and gorgeously vivid melons, our negro population and gastronomic bliss from national prosperity, from each bit of soil and atmosphere American, that we have long since forgotten that both melon and negro were but adopted and adapted; that they were not as much our own originally as the Indians, as maize, cotton, tobacco, and potatoes. But, with our combined talents for foreign affiliation, amalgamation, and assimilation and our intense patriotism this could not fail to be. The tinge of the tropics which appeals to us in the multi-coloured, formed, and flavoured succulent dainties is entirely typical of our sunny Southern States and they also so richly riot over our broad North-land that it is difficult indeed to remember, even with some unusually concen- trated whiff of musky spiciness from the smaller types of melon, that the whole group had an Oriental origin; that India, "the plains of Ispahan," "the floating islands of Cashmere" — all Asia — have presumably first claim. Lucul- lus is supposed to have introduced the muskmelon and nutmeg into Rome from Armenia, but the British Isles made their earliest acquaintance with this group (the smaller melons) in the sixteenth century, when taken there from Jamaica. It is difficult to state the exact date of the melon's advent into America but it is now so much one with the soil that we may be content to waive claim to its
125
i26 FRUIT RECIPES
origin and merge exact dates because of present riches.
Broadly speaking, there are three classes of melons, to the first belonging the larger, watermelons; to the second the muskmelon, canteloupe, and nutmeg group, and to the third the citron melons. All of them are members of the Cucurbitacecz, or Gourd Family, to which, also, the pumpkin, squash, and cucumber belong. The watermelon, Citrullus citrullus, is, in a sense, "a thing apart/' being considered a distinct genus. It is in this, with its many varieties, that we particularly revel in America. The Kaukoor (Citrullus utillissimus) , is a favourite variety of melon in India. It is rather a small, oval, and yellow- meated melon of which both the flesh and seeds are prized: the former pickled or used in curries, or uncooked. The oily seeds, when round, form a farinaceous meal; the oil, extracted, is used for lamp oil; the seeds are also used medicinally. In Egypt and Arabia the favourite melon is the Chate (Citrullus chate) which much resembles the American watermelon.
Our grandmothers made good use of all three of the types known to the United States. The citron melon was especially esteemed for rich conserves. On the other hand it made the simplest of sauces. The canteloupe group was highly regarded as a basis for pickles and marmalades, and the watermelon as conserves or medicine. This last melon is particularly refreshing, arriving as it does with the greatest heat of the year. Unripe, like the muskmelon, (Cucumis meld) it is apt to produce unpleasant, colicky symptoms, but thoroughly ripe furnishes safety to the system with the carrying away of any feverish tendency. Among many foreign peoples, as formerly in our own country, the fresh simple juice is considered excellent for the liver, kidneys, and bladder, and the seeds, like those of the pumpkin and cucumber, " bruised and rubbed up with
MELONS 127
water to form an emulsion," are given for catarrhal dis- orders. The Dispensatory of the United States (Wood and Bache) to-day recognises in its list of "unofficial" remedies, the refreshing and purifying qualities of water- melon seeds and states that an "infusion of two ounces, bruised, to a pint of water, may be taken ad libitum." The freshly expressed, simple juice and a preparation called "watermelon honey," or " Arbooznyimiod" are in high repute among the peasants of Russia and used in dropsy, chronic congestion of the liver, and intestinal catarrh.
The watermelon, though more bulky, and having one- tenth per cent, of fat where it is reckoned the muskmelon has none, has less of the richness of the fruit sugars, less ash, protein, and heat producing or energy value and in its very lack of actual food elements is one of the simplest, most wholesome of nature's purifiers.
(See tables appended for figures regarding food value of melons.)
RECIPES
TO SERVE CANTELOUPES SIMPLY
Canteloupes should be placed on ice and thoroughly chilled, then cut in half and the seeds removed, being care- ful not to scrape out the delicate pulp nearest the seeds as this is the most spicy portion of the fruit. Place the halves on plates of cracked ice, reversing the usual order of serving ice in the hollow of the melon, as by this latter method the flavour is drawn out instead of preserved with- in the pulp.
TO SERVE WATERMELON SIMPLY (Three Ways)
1. Have the melon thoroughly iced, then slice across about an inch thick, remove the rind and cut the solid red
i28 FRUIT RECIPES
pulp into cubes, diamonds, hearts, or other shapes as de- sired. Place in salad bowl or individual dishes, dust with fine sugar, and serve at once.
2. Cut in inch slices across ; remove rind and serve the heart (each large slice) of the red pulp in round or oval form ; sprinkle with sugar. If cut into small rounds or ovals (inch length) sprinkle with maraschino and serve as cherries or plums.
3. If the melon is preferably to be placed upon the table whole it should be held lengthwise to- ward one; the knife inserted near the top and cut diagonally downward (instead of straight down- ward) toward the other end, leaving four or five inches as a base. Three inches to the left of the point where the knife was first inserted cut again, this time diagonally toward the far end of the first line of cut, thus making a pointed tongue. Continue to cut up and down in this manner until the melon is completely cut around, wThen two equal sets of points will result, and these jagged halves of the melon can easily be pulled apart. (The melon may be plugged or halved twelve hours before serving, filled with wine and let "ripen".)
NUTMEG BASKETS
Tie a string around the melons that the halves may be plainly marked to the eye, then from one end cut a strip (both ways) an inch wide and reaching to the string. Re- move the side sections and from the baskets thus formed take seeds and "threads." Also cut the sweet pulp care- fully so that it will be in dainty bits. Set the baskets and pulp, separately, on ice, and when ready to serve them fill the hollows with the pulp, and sprinkle with sugar, salt, or lemon juice as desired. Or, first treat with wrine, as above, or use the Turkish flavouring on the cut cubes: two
MELONS 129
tablespoons of brandy, one of ginger, and pinch of salt and pepper.
MELON ROLL
Whip stiff one pint double cream. See that it is quite
dry before adding a half pint of melon pulp (mashed) and
one-half cup of sugar. Freeze, and when stiff line a long,
rounding mould with it. Fill in the centre with chopped
melon flavoured with a little spice, wine, lemon, or other
fruit flavouring. Place cover on securely, sealing with
wax or butter, and pack it in salt and ice for several hours.
When ready to serve it remove the frozen roll with a hot
knife; slice across in inch slices and serve the circlets thus
made.
MELON ICE RINGS
The small round melons (previously placed on ice) must
be cut across in circles, the seeds carefully removed and the
hollows filled with whipped cream or fruit ice just before
serving.
MELON SURPRISE
Cut a slice across the top of the smaller melons to serve individually, or the larger ones as liked, so that this slice will form a lid. Scoop out the inside of the melons and fill with nutmeg or canteloupe ice, with wine, or any ice cream or whipped-cream mixture. If the shells are iced some time before and when filled set at once on ice, they may stand thus for some hours (lid replaced). A ribbon may be tied around the whole or knotted at the top.
WATERMELON HALF FROZEN
Break the ripe pulp of the melon into fine bits with a silver fork and place it in freezer without dasher. Let stand two hours packed in salt and ice and serve in sherbet glasses or the half shell of the melon chilled and garnished at base with vines.
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WATERMELON SHERBET
Scrape all the red pulp of the melon, carefully saving the juice and having sufficient melon to give strength of flavour. Allow to one gallon of liquid a pound of sugar and freeze. (This may be varied by adding lemon flavour- ing and juice, or sherry.) When half frozen add the whip- ped whites of eggs (one for each quart of the mixture) and finish the freezing.
CANTELOUPE ICE
To one quart of melon pulp allow a pound of sugar and a pint of water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water, simmering five minutes. When cold add to the melon pulp and freeze.
NUTMEG COMPOTE
Make a syrup as above and while it is still hot lay in it cubes or strips of melon, simmering five or six minutes, then placing in serving-dish. Cook the syrup down till thick, add any flavouring desired and pour over the melon. Heap whipped cream on this and serve.
NUTMEG TART
Nutmeg or canteloupe prepared as above may be made into a tempting tart by lining a baking-dish with a delicate paste, baking, and then filling it with above mixture. Make a meringue with the whipped whites of two eggs and cup of sugar; place over melon, brown quickly in oven, and serve hot or cold.
MELON MOUSSE
Place the pulp of nutmeg, canteloupe, or muskmelon in preserving kettle with half the quantity of sugar. Stew down till rather thick; rub through sieve and replace on
MELONS 131
stove. Have dissolved a half box of gelatine (for each pint of pulp) first softened in a little cold water, then more thoroughly dissolved by pouring on it a half-pint of boiling water and placing over steam. Add this to the cooked melon, stirring until it begins to cool and thicken, when place in wetted moulds ; set on ice till firm and serve with cream. (Less gelatine may be used if preferred.)
MELON MARMALADE (Old-fashioned Recipe)
Take large citron melons, quarter, and remove seeds. Weigh, and to every pound of melon allow a pound of loaf sugar (double refined). To every three pounds of melons allow two lemons and a teespoonful of ground white ginger. Grate the melon on coarse grater, not too close to rind. Grate off also the yellow rind of the lemons and add with the ginger to the sugar. Mix all the ingredients in a pre- serving kettle. Set it over a moderate fire, boil, skim, and stir until it is a very thick, smooth jam. Put it warm into glasses; lay a double round of tissue paper on the surface and seal the jars.
SMALL MELON PICKLES (Old Recipe)
Select muskmelons the size of black walnuts ; prick well and place for three days in brine, when freshen and pour over them hot spiced vinegar.
RIPE MUSKMELON PICKLES (Mrs. Haskell)
With all melon pickles use about one teaspoon alum to harden four pounds of melon. Take hard muskmelons after they are sufficiently ripe to develop flavour, and slice lengthwise ; scrape out seeds and lay melon in salt over night. Wash and wipe dry, then put in alum water one hour; wash and wipe dry again, cut in slices, and pack in glass jars. Pour over them a syrup of vinegar with
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spices, and set in a boiler of cold water. Heat gradually to boiling; remove the bottles and cork as soon as cold. The melons may be peeled or cut in rings if preferred.
SPICED MELONS
Quarter, peel, and cut into preferred size the pieces of melon. When weighed place in earthen jar; pour over them cold vinegar and let stand over night. Then drain and for every seven pounds of melons make a syrup of three pounds of sugar, a teaspoon each of allspice and cloves, a little grated nutmeg, and a few bits of stick cin- namon. Boil several minutes after commencing to sim- mer. Pour this over the melons; cover them and let stand over night. Repeat this twice, the last time sim- mering until melon is tender and translucent, though firm. Place in heated jars and pour the spiced syrup over them,
then seal.
MELON MANGOES
Take small green muskmelons ; place in earthen or wooden receptacles and pour over them hot brine in which a little alum has been dissolved. Repeat twice and let stand in brine six days after scalding last time, when place in kettle ; scald and let stand over night. Repeat this at in- tervals of several hours three times, letting stand last time twenty -four hours. Remove one section of the melon and scoop out the inside. Wash and soak twelve hours in acidu- lated water. Make a stuffing of onions, cucumbers, to- matoes, beans, horseradish, etc. Drain the melons. Place first in them a few cloves, cinnamon, ginger, white mustard seed and horseradish, then the filling. Replace and sew on the removed section; place melons in large receptacle, cut side up, and pour over them spiced vinegar (Place weights on them), letting stand six days. Drain and cover with unspiced vinegar for indefinite keeping.
MELONS 133
PRESERVED CITRON MELON
To five pounds citron melon take three pounds sugar, nine lemons, two ounces green ginger root, and one tea- spoon powdered alum. Peel melon and cut into rather thin slices, boiling until clear and tender in water containing the alum. Drain and wash in cold water. Have ready a syrup prepared by cooking together the sugar and juice of eight of the lemons, adding grated rinds of three and the ginger root, and cooking until clear and rather thick. Place in it the citron melon with one sliced lemon; place the melon in heated jars; pour into them the boiling syrup and seal while hot.
CANDIED CITRON MELON
Follow the recipe given just above but slicing thicker, and when the melon has been removed from the syrup drain and place the cubes or strips in a heater or fruit-dryer or in the sun. When dry, after twenty -four hours dip again in the re-heated syrup and dry. This process must be repeated until the melon is sufficiently candied to keep by packing away in layers of oiled paper. On the care and length of process depends the success of the results.
WATERMELON PICKLES
Pare off the green part of the rind ; cut the white part into strips of desired size and cover with boiling water in which alum has been dissolved. Let stand over night in this, then soak several hours in fresh cold rain water. Place in pre- serving kettle and cook in fresh hot water till tender. Have ready a syrup made of equal parts of vinegar and sugar. Cook in this a stick of cinnamon, several sliced lemons, (without seeds) and a little ginger-root. When thick and well flavoured place the drained melon in this and cook
134
FRUli RECIPES
till it is clear. Take out the melon; place in jars; boil
down the syrup till thick; pour over the rinds and
seal.
WATERMELON HONEY
Use the red portion only. Crush and strain it or cook down (with seeds) till very soft and then strain, cooking again till thick. (Three quarts of red pulp will make but about one-fifth pint of "honey/') This requires time and patience. Cool the honey, then proceed as with grape juice in bottling. It is best without sugar but a little sugar and lemon juice may be added, the "honey" alone not keeping so well.
WATERMELON CATSUP
Use the red and a little of the white portions, cooking down pulp and seeds till soft, when press through a colander and add spice, etc., as for grape catsup.
CITRON OR PIE-MELON SAUCE
Cut and pare the melon; place in double boiler with no water or barely sufficient to wet the bottom layer of pieces, and cook till soft. Add sugar and lemon juice or other flavouring. This approaches apple sauce in flavour and consistency. To vary the flavour add, instead of lemon, or with it, barberry, cranberry, currant, or rasp- berry syrup, when the melon begins to soften.
PIE-MELON TART
Make as for apple tarts, using the sauce made as above.
MELONS AS VEGETABLES
The half ripe melons of the canteloupe group may be used as are cucumbers and egg-plant for frying in egg and crumbs or in batter, or for scalloping, stuffing, and baking.
MELONS i3S
MELONS CURRIED
Use for curries, also, the half ripe melons. Peel and cut in small cubes or slices nearly an inch thick and fry carefully in a little butter. Prepare the curry in another saucepan, frying an onion (sliced) in a tablespoon of butter until a golden brown. Add to this the fried melon; sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of curry po^v der (or quantity preferred) and let cook up, covered. A little water or milk may be added if necessary.
MELONS FOR SALADS
The fully ripe fruit is delicious for salads, cut in cubes and served alone or with other fruits, as tomatoes or peaches or bananas. Serve with mayonnaise plain or flavoured with some liqueur or French dressing to which has been added a suspicion of Maraschino, or serve with whipped cream. (See Salads in Introductory Recipes.)
CITRON MELON IN JELLY
There is an unusual quantity of pectin in the citron melon which makes it of practical value in jelly making. Where fruit does not readily jell the addition of citron melon (proportion varying with fruit used, half and half; one- third, etc.), will make this end far more quickly at- tainable.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
The melons of the nutmeg group stand half way between the vegetable marrow so valued by Europeans, (near which must be placed the squash and pumpkin), and the luscious sweetened melons which are classed with fruits, so that they may be used far more generally than usually supposed in sweetened croquettes, as for apples, and with cheese or nuts or eggs, as with vegetables, all of these, of course, giving meat value.
CHAPTER XIII A CLUSTER OF BERRIES
THE little fruits classed scientifically or popularly as "berries" form a most exquisite group, beautiful in variety of form and colouring, delightful in rich fragrance or bouquet and in delicacy of flavour, appealing to and stimulating the appetite through every aesthetic sense; cooling, in refreshing the whole system ; subtly satisfying the intellectual and physical natures alike. The chief members of the group, whether wild or cultivated, are the strawberry, blackberry, and raspberry (with subdivisions) ; the huckle- or blue- or whortleberry; the mulberry, cranberry, gooseberry, and currant; the elderberry and barberry.
THE STRAWBERRY
The strawberry, or Fragaria ( Nat. Ord. Rosacea), while in its wild state not perhaps so lavishly generous with its riches as is the blackberry over both southern and north- ern latitudes, yet, speaking broadly, grows from the Arctic to the Antarctic zones; the mountains of Switzerland and even the Himalayas not too high or chill but that it may be found nestling close to Mother Earth, giving out beauty and charm in unexpected spots. It was, undoubt- edly, this shy, rich sweetness — so free from tearing thorns — which stamped from the first with indelible favouritism the wild crimson berry, and its being found so amenable to cultivation, (therefore making its season long, from the width of belt from which it may be shipped,) gave it con- tinued first rank in favour.
136
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 137
Its generic name of Fragaria was given it by the old Romans because of its inviting perfume. Its second baptismal name of " straw," by which we of to-day designate It, had also ancient origin of which, however, two ex- planations are given, one tradition asserting that it came from the Anglo-Saxon "strae" meaning to stray (because of the vine's wandering habits), and from which we derive directly our English verb "stray." But the name is also said to have come from the old English custom of placing straw under the plants to mulch or to prevent the fruit from rotting.
It is not everyone who can eat strawberries, unfortunately, as their decided and peculiar form of acids does not agree with everyone, but these people are exceptions and should know that the addition of a little Cayenne pepper will not unpleasantly detract from the fruit and will very often prevent difficulties in the digesting of them. They con- tain such proportion of citric and malic acids and salts of lime that in general they are considered excellent for those of gouty or bilious temperament and even when acids are supposedly contra-indicated they prove acceptable to the system if taken with a small quantity of bicarbonate of potash (see Note 1: Preface). Holbrook states that the use of this berry cured Wilson, the ornithologist, of chronic malarial fever after the doctors had failed. An- other celebrated cure, handed down among strawberry devotees, was that of the botanist Linnaeus from gout, and patients of lesser note have been entirely relieved of liver troubles and maladies associated with the respiratory organs, particularly the lungs. One Swiss physician re- ported as restricting patients with serious pulmonary diseases to an almost exclusive diet of strawberries.
Wild strawberries are more readily digestible than al- most any berry known and the red drops, like heart's
i38 FRUIT RECIPES
blood, seem to be congealed sunshine with all tne therapeutic value of the sun concentrated in them. It seems a pity that they are comparatively rare and not usually to be bought in open market, although if they were to be had at every corner grocery most of their healing agency would have departed. Only by gathering them in their native haunts may all this value be given and received.
THE BLACKBERRY
If the strawberry, with its combined tartness, sweetness, brilliance yet shyness of beauty may be regarded as a feminine type the blackberry may as truly be said to possess masculine characteristics. The blackberry vine's vigour, its happy-go-lucky, sturdy habit of growth, its wandering prodigality, its riotous, rollicking insistence of right-to-be, and thorny defence against aggression are marked traits (modified, of course, by training) of the "eternal boy." The blackberry and strawberry might well be considered brother and sister since both belong to the Rose Family. The blackberry (Rubus) shows in its generic and "nick" names similar Roman and Anglo-Saxon associations, Rubus being connected with the Latin ruber (red), and "black- berry" derived from the Anglo-Saxon blackberige and Old English Blackberye. "Bramble," applied to both black and raspberries, takes its meaning from the Anglo-Saxon brembely or brember, that which tears or lacerates.
The blackberry is rather unusual among fruits as being astringent instead of laxative; fruit, young leaves, and roots all partaking of this quality. It is said to contain iron and from its general tonic composition effectually tones up the system. The Greeks made from the pressed young shoots of the plant a thick syrup to be given internally for throat, mouth, and eye troubles, but more commonly the berries and roots have been used for various specifics,
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 139
particularly the roots for troubles related to dysentery. The sugar of the berries makes them more palatable and nourishing and the mild acids are cooling to the blood. Blackberry cordial is an excellent remedy for diarrhoea and blackberry wine is tonic in effect while the jams and syrups made from the berry are very pleasing forms of throat remedies. The decoction from the roots is pre- pared by " boiling down an ounce of the smaller roots, or of the bark of the larger, in a pint and a half of water, down to a pint; of which from one to two fluid-ounces may be given to an adult three or four times, or more frequently during the twenty-four hours." (Wood & Bache: U. S. Dispensatory.)
The Dewberry is but a variety, with sub-varieties, of blackberry, the coating of which is considered to resemble dew.
THE RASPBERRY
The Raspberry is very nearly related to the blackberry, a similar variety of the genus Rubus, having, again, sub- varieties in black and red raspberries and the wild cloud- berry and thimbleberry (the latter black in colour.) The fragrance and flavour of the red raspberry are rarely aromatic and delicate, but its seeds and coat are harsher than those of the blackberry. From this inherent rough- ness came its name: from the English "rasp." It is placed with the strawberry as to value in liver and gouty troubles. Syrup of Raspberries in various forms is considered very refreshing and purifying and, the seeds being removed in these preparations, the fruit is perhaps more wholesome than in other forms as well as being quite as attractive.
LOGANBERRY
The Loganberry is a cross between the black- and rasp- berry, one of the famous California hybrids. (Seed of
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the Aughinbaugh blackberry and pollen of Antwerp Raspberry.) As yet it has not been found to ship well and in the East does not flourish as in California, where the fresh berries are much liked but are perhaps improved with cookery.
THE HUCKLEBERRY — CRANBERRY GROUP
The huckleberry or whortleberry, the blueberry, bil- berry, or blaeberry, and cranberry are related, comprising in reality different groups of the Ericacecz, or Heath family, though there is a vast difference between the mild, dark- hued, blue-coated berries and the crimson, acid variety of whortleberry and cranberry. The latest classification of these (F. V. Colville) is as follows: huckleberry: Gay- lussacia; blueberry: Vaccinium; cranberry: Oxycoccus; farkleberry: Batodendron; deerberry: Polycodium. The whortleberries and huckle- or blueberries ("beyond New England commonly called huckleberries" — Gray) make excellent jellies and jams, may be dried and preserved otherwise, and in some parts of Europe a spirituous liquor is manufactured from them. A goodly per cent, of citric acid is contained in some varieties of whortleberries.
The cranberry, with its decided acids, has marked and valuable characteristics. It contains a large per cent, of citric acid and iron as well; is therefore strongly tonic and purifying and particularly grateful on long voyages or in the winter season when other berries are difficult or impossible to procure in fresh condition. From the Arctic's southern limits cranberries reach southward, instinctively being used in these colder regions as an anti- scorbutic. In Great Britain they form part of ship-stores for the same purpose. They are also excellent used ex- ternally, as poultices, in reducing inflammation. In Siberia and Russia wine is made from them and in Scandinavian
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 141
countries the peasants make both a business and a pleasure of gathering cranberries in the nightless days of their summer season, drying them (generally on endless strings) against the darker, colder season to come. They may also be preserved in clear water in jars or bottles, uncooked, and cooked of course variously.
THE MULBERRY (Moracea)
This berry is seldom appreciated, almost never ranked according to its true value as a fruit, possibly from its very convenience of accessibility and manipulation. Had it thorns it might be better loved. It was long ago taken from Persia to Italy and in Europe as well as Asia it has always been highly esteemed for its leaves as food for silk-worms and its wood for posts. For silk-worms the Moris alba (white mulberry) is chiefly known, though the black mulberry is also valued for the purpose. The black {Moris nigra) and the red {Moris rubra) mul- berries are sources of food and drink not to be despised; for these purposes, indeed, the white mulberry is not to be mentioned beside them. The smaller black or red mulberry, though not so acceptable just from the tree, makes, like the large, black, luscious French mulberry (which is so delicious uncooked), most desirable jelly, preserves, and drinks. It is one of the most wholesome of berries, con- taining much potash — therefore recommended for throat troubles as well as for internal complaints — and is one of the richest, purest, most concentrated sugar manufactories among fruits, in quantity of grape sugar outranked only by the grape and cherry, the grape having from 10.6 to 19; the cherrry 10.79; mulberry 9.19. (U. S. Dispensatory). The mulberry is laxative, its juice grateful in fevers when strained from the seeds, and its tartaric acid refreshing in health.
i42 FRUIT RECIPES
THE ELDERBERRY
The elderberry is one of the richest of the whole collection of berries in legendary lore, in mystical and practical charm, each part, from roots to flowers, giving out some- thing of value as food or medicine, being possessed of indisputable medical properties, of remarkable qualities for flavouring or colouring, and as a food — in jelly, jams, etc., or wine, having unique elements of excellence.
The elder, or Sambucus, belongs to the Natural Order CaprifoliacecB, or Honeysuckle Family, and its name, Sambucus, seems a fit one throughout the centuries, since it was taken from the old Greek name for one of the ancient musical instruments and it has been much used in Scot- land and England for the manufacture of certain music- giving instruments, while boys all over the world know its inestimable value for whistles, and for pop-guns, or " pipes." Tradition says that it was once a tree but cursed and dwarfed by the hanging of Judas upon it. Other tradition goes further in claiming it as that of which the Cross was made, and even the mistletoe cannot lay greater claim to these storied reasons for being stunted.
The Sambucus ebulus, or Dwarf Elderberry, rather rare in the British Isles and almost unknown in America, possesses strong characteristics which make it desirable to avoid save under medical direction. In America the red-berried elder {Sambucus pubens) grows only in rocky woods of the more northern portions, but the black elderberry commonly known (5. Canadensis), with its striking, graceful clusters of flowers or fruit, is quite cos- mopolitan (though, like the red-berried elder, masquerading under various nicknames, as "bourtree"), the black varieties being virtually the same.
However unbelievable may be the many traditions and
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 143
charms connected with or said to be worked by the elder, one may approach understanding of the origin of these beliefs when even in these " enlightened" days it is claimed in Scotland and England that the leaves give out so strong and narcotic an odour or power that it is unsafe to sleep in their shade, and when, in America, the apparently innocent young leaf-buds are declared too much of a risk to put into the mouth. Possessed of such elements of possible dan- ger, it might readily have once been considered its powers of evil were available for charms. The United States Dispensatory remarks (in list of Unofficial Remedies): "The juice of the berries has been used as an alterative in rheumatism, also as a laxative. The inner bark is in large doses emetic. It has been employed in dropsy, epilepsy, and various chronic diseases. The leaves are not without activity and the young leaf -buds are said to be "a violent and even unsafe purgative." The juice, also, of the root has been used in dropsy. There is so great an abundance of citric acid in the scarlet-fruited elder (Sambucus race- mosa rubra), native of the south of Europe and Siberia, that M. Thibier Thibierge of Versailles proposed its use as a source of the commercial supply. Wine is made from both the flowers and berries (of the common black elder) , the former rarely delicate, declared similar in bouquet and flavour to Frontignac. The juice of the berry is used to colour and adulterate other wines, and the berries supposed to improve ale, currant wine and jellies by their addi- tion. Formerly they were made up into vinegars and sauces for meats; the flowers into ointment and elder- flower water (the latter still used in perfumes and medicinal decoctions) ; the tiniest blooms stripped and separated to mix in with and lighten pancakes or muffins, and in France, as packing or filling for certain delicate apples, they still flavour richly and spicily and beautify a
i44 FRUIT RECIPES
matter-of-fact present. The clustered, unopened buds of the flowers, and sometimes the unripe berries, were in olden days pickled to serve in the fashion of capers and a syrup or "rob" of the berries was considered excellent as a laxative, diuretic and cough medicine for children. Cooked, the young shoots seem to have none of the purga- tive qualities of the immature leaf-buds and the fruit un- cooked is eaten in quantity with relish by Indians of west- ern America although to whites its peculiar flavour makes it seem lacking until cooked with some form of spice or the acid of other fruit.
CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES
The dried currants of commerce, so favourite an in- gredient in cakes, puddings, and other dishes, are not re- lated to the garden currant (although once in a while the latter is also dried for domestic purposes) , being in reality a kind of raisin or grape (Passulce minores) raised and dried in the Levant and exported from there in large quantities, as Corinthian raisins or Zante currants (see Currants under Grapes). Currants proper belong to the genus Ribes, of the Grossulariacece, these being the spine- less, twin-relative of the spiny gooseberry. Ribes is sup- posed to be an Arabic name and, as a matter of fact, the cur- rant grows wild in Asia, Europe, and parts of America. The name "currant" is, in Australia, applied to other (native) berries of that continent as well as to the culti- vated, garden currants introduced from England.
There are red, white, black, and yellow garden currants, variously valued, the red considered best for most wines, shrubs or vinegars, and tart jellies; the white for simple dessert fruit, uncooked, and the black for medicinal de- coctions, although the black currant is also much usdfcl in preserves, vinegars, etc., and in France a certain liqueur ,
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 145
Liqueur de Cassis, is manufactured from it. All currants, like "red gooseberries, " contain citric acid and there is a particular tonic quality in the black currant which is con- sidered excellent for the kidneys and bladder, for promoting perspiration, and for inflamed throats. Currants and raspberries, combined, have become famous in several forms and the red currant is a great addition to various fruit jellies.
The gooseberry, Ribes grossularia, is especially famed and loved as an English garden fruit. Varieties of goose- berries wild are to be found in parts of Europe, Asia, and America, certain species growing in Japan, Siberia, India, and Canada, where they are made use of. Notwithstand- ing the general growth of the gooseberry over this wide expanse of territory, it seems not to have become known as a cultivated fruit until comparatively recent times; nothing definite being known regarding it until about two hundred years ago when attention began to be paid to it in Lancashire. Its name indicates an earlier French " residence' ' or transition period and claim upon French interest since "gooseberry" is supposed to be a corruption of the French " groseilley" from which is derived the Scotch "grozart," or "grozet." In some places in England it is known as "feaberry." Pies and tarts made from it have become famous in rhyme and the annals of English domestic life would not be complete without frequent mention of the gooseberry, most delicious in its perfection. English it essentially now is, having attained its fullest beauty and richness in England and being comparatively little known in its most luscious form elsewhere, unless we ex- cept France. Gooseberry wine vies with champagne. In various preserves and vinegars it is excellent and it may be kept for a long time in the fresh state sealed in heated bottles.
i46 FRUIT RECIPES
THE BARBERRY
The beautiful Barberry (Nat. Ord. Berberidacece), with its brilliant red clusters of minute, juicy ovals of pulp, is known all over the world in temperate and colder climates except in Australia — either as the common Bar- berry or the Ash-leaved Berry, the latter, however, being insipid or unpleasant in flavour. The former, Berberis vulgaris, is not only extremely ornamental but its tartness is of decided value and so recognised, scientifically, in France, where malic acid is manufactured from the berries. A certain, smaller per cent, of citric acid is associated with the malic acid but the latter is its chief source of acidity and value.
These loose bunches of little oval berries are generally too acid and astringent to be pleasing as food in their natural condition of ripeness (admitting exceptions), but cooked, a syrup, preserves, jelly, and jam of fine flavour and colour are made from them, and in tarts they rival the cranberry. Also, some varieties are susceptible of being dried in the sun and kept indefinitely for future use. The bark and the root are used in tropical countries for tanning and dyeing yellow. Their juice is refrigerant and anti-scorbutic and they are used in fevers for their cooling effect and in diarrhoeas a preparation of them is fre- quently prescribed by some physicians because of the malic acid which so effectively kills germs of this type. In larger doses thev are cathartic; in small ones tonic and laxative.
THE MAY APPLE
Another member of the Berberidacece is the American May Apple {Podophyllum peltatum), sometimes called mandrake but not related to the mandrake proper (Man- dragora officinarum, Nat. Ord. Solanacece, or the Night-
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 147
shade Family) or the mandrake of the ancients, and the May Apple is the only species of the genus. It is also poisonous by report, so far as the plant itself is concerned, but the root is used medicinally, though too violent in nature to be safe except under medical direction. The fruit is not poisonous, however, and "may be eaten freely with impunity " (Wood and Bache). It deserves to be ex- perimented with further, its flavour being delicious for marmalades.
THE CHECKERBERRY
The names: Checkerberry, Boxberry, Partridge Berry, or Winter green, are familiarly applied to two different berries, one the Gaultheria, of the Heath Family, the other the Mitchella repens, or Winter Clover, of the Madder Family. It is the former from which is distilled the oil of wintergreen and whose berries are so enticingly gay and spicy. The flowers of the Mitchella are pretty and scented but the berries, though edible and keeping all through the winter, become dry and tasteless. They possess medicinal virtues in being tonic and soothing and have been used in dropsy and other troubles.
THE WINTER CHERRY
The Winter Cherry, or Phy sails, although of the Night- shade Family (Solanacea) is one of most picturesque of real food berries, a sweet, succulent morsel of yellow, green, purple, or red, hiding away in a dainty green or yellow nest, unsuspected by those unfamiliar with it. This Ground or Winter Cherry is a friendly little thing, making open over- tures to cultivation, running wild by inherited habit but often entering gardens of its own accord and remaining, when encouraged, as a permanent resident. There are numerous species, among them the Alkekengi, or "Strawberry To- mato," or "Love Apple, " and the "Peruvian Gooseberry,"
i48 FRUIT RECIPES
or Phy salts pubescens, and they are known, wild or culti- vated, all over the world, from the tropics of America and Asia northward, sometimes found in Scotland and other damp, cold latitudes. The Winter Cherry is excellent either in natural condition or "put up," and may be cooked by any method of which the general berry group is susceptible — with most satisfactory results to the palate. Also, this little "Winter Cherry " is "good for the health, " being as cooling as its name. It acts wholesomely upon the kidneys and has been valued medicinally in other ways, as for gout and fevers.
HACKBERRY AND HAWS
The Nettle Tree, the Celtis, of the Nat. Ord. Ulmacea, (related to the elms) should be mentioned in the group of berries as its fruit, known in America as the Hackberry and Sugarberry, is edible and of most pleasing sweetness and aromatic flavour. It is at its best, like the persimmon, after frost.
The Hawthorn or Cratagus (of the Malacece) — known in varying forms over the world: as the White Thorn or English "May," the Blackthorn, the Yellow or Summer Thorn — the Scarlet Haw; with yellow, orange, purple, or red fruit — is more useful than is generally known. The fruit varies in size and flavour, but there are a number of the haws which make a pleasing breakfast or dessert- fruit, being used this way in the south of Europe and the Levant, and also in the manufacture of hawthorn liquor, an intoxicant, and as the basis of cookery concoctions, as tarts, proving their delicious possibilities. (The Viburnum prunijolium, of the Honeysuckle Family, related distantly to the elderberry, is sometimes called the black haw or sloe or stag-bush, though the two latter terms belong more
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 149
properly to the Prunus spinosa. It has not the pleasing qualities of the hawthorn "haws." The Viburnum, how- ever, is considered very valuable medicinally, being a nervine and tonic.)
THE SERVICE BERRY (Malacea)
The Service or " Sarvice " Berry, is of interest in a peculiar way to Americans, in connection with the Mormons, who have for it a real affection since in their earlier days, when hardships and privations were continual, the Service Berry provided sometimes their entire food. Even when this ex- treme condition did not prevail the Service Berry constitu- ted a solid food value which Utah will not forget. The New International Dictionary gives perhaps the best and most concise description of what otherwise might be a confusing matter, so connected are various forms of the Service Berry or Service Tree. " Service Berry: A name given to several trees and shrubs of the genus Pyrus, as Pyrus domestica, and Pyrus torminalis, the various species of mountain ash or rowan tree, and the American Shad-bush. They have clusters of small, edible, apple-like berries. In British America the name is especially applied to that of several species of the shad-bush." "Shad-Bush: (Bot.) A name given to the North American shrubs or small trees of the rosaceous genus Amelanchier {A. Canadensis and A. Alnifolia). Their white racemose blossoms open in April or May when the shad appear and the edible ber- ries (pomes) ripen in June or July, whence they are called June Berries. The Plant is also called Service tree and June Berry." Thus the connection is shown between the foreign Service Tree (of which the Sorb is a variety) , the American Mountain Ash, Shad Bush, and Service Berries, and the romantic Scotch Rowan. The spotted fruit of the Sorb is improved by keeping, and in a mellowed
ISO FRUIT RECIPES
state is regularly shipped to the London market from English country towns. This mature stage or over-ripeness is also necessary for the best flavour of the true Service Tree fruit (known as Service or June Berries in Savoy). A drink similar to cider is made from these berries and when the latter are dried and powdered they are valued as an astringent, used in curing diarrhoea. The Mountain Ash contains a large quantity of malic acid, of which fact chem- ists often take advantage in the manufacture of the com- mercial form. The berries are available for food, as are those of the rowan, which are used in tarts, (and every other dish adapted to acid berries), in Scotland and in Europe. The Buffalo Berry (Sheperdia argenta) is a fruit par- ticularly known in the West, used commonly as food. The names indicate something of its wild associations, and originated in the custom of serving it as a sauce with buffalo meat. Like the barberry it is tart and is used in much the same manner.
RECIPES
STRAWBERRIES SERVED WHOLE, UNCOOKED
These berries may be served unhulled, to be dipped in sugar and eaten with the fingers. Place in the heart of head lettuce or other bed of green, if to be served from a large receptacle, or on lettuce or other large single leaves if from individual dishes. If served hulled, strawberries should have sugar placed on them at least an hour before serving. The addition of a cup of orange or pineapple juice will add to the flavour.
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
The simpler the form of the "cake" the more delicious will be the result, although many people prefer a sponge
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or cup cake with the berries. For a plain shortcake make a sweet biscuit dough (see Introductory Recipes), rolling out an inch thick, cutting in diamonds or squares or rounds, and baking like biscuits. These may be readily broken open (never cut) and the mashed berries sweetened (to* gether with some whole ones) mixed and heaped upon them for individual serving. Or the dough may be rolled thin- ner, spread with butter, folding over once and baking in either one sheet or individual form, the butter facilitating the opening of the cake. Or single, inch-thick sheets may be made and heaped in layers, using the crushed berries for filling, the whole ones for the top. Another form of short- cake is to add to the biscuit dough two well-beaten eggs. Whipped cream may be heaped over the whole berries used on the top of any form of the cake.
STRAWBERRY BATTER CUPS
Stir one pint of sugar through a quart of slightly mashed berries. Make a batter with one and a half cups of flour in which has been sifted a half-teaspoon of salt and one heap- ing teaspoon of baking-powder. Mix with this a table- spoon of butter, two beaten eggs, and one cup of milk. Place a layer of the batter in buttered cups or moulds, then a layer of the berries, etc., until two-thirds full. Steam or bake for forty minutes. Serve with whipped cream or strawberry sauce
STRAWBERRY SAUCE
Cream together one cup of sugar and a half-cup of but- ter; add the whipped white of an egg, then one cup of mashed or chopped berries. Place on ice several hours before serving.
152 FRUIT RECIPES
STRAWBERRY DUMPLINGS Line muffin rings with thin-rolled sweet biscuit dough and bake quickly. When browned fill the shells with ripe strawberries, sprinkle sugar on top, and serve. Or make like conventional dumplings. (See "The Apple.")
STRAWBERRY TART Line sides of large or small pans or baking dishes with pastry and bake a light brown. Fill then with strawberry jam or fresh berries and serve (dished) with a meringue or whipped cream. Or finish with lattice strips as for English Apple Tart and brown.
STRAWBERRY FLOAT
Heat a quart of milk with one cup of sugar and a pinch of salt. When at boiling point add one tablespoon of cornstarch which has been dissolved in a little of the milk (cold). Cook for three minutes, when add the beaten yolks of three eggs; whip together two minutes and remove from stove, letting cool. Meantime have ready a pint of sweet berries mashed with one-half cup of sugar. Let stand an hour then strain. Whip the whites of the eggs, and two tablespoons powdered sugar, then the juice from the berries; place on top of the custard when the latter is ice cold and serve quickly.
STRAWBERRY PYRAMID Have cooked one pint of flaky rice. Place a layer of it on the bottom of glass serving-dish, spreading with a table- spoon of butter. Alternate this with layers of whole straw- berries (sugared) until a pyramid is formed. Serve with cream.
ESCALLOPED STRAWBERRIES
Alternate layers of strawberries and whipped cream in glass serving-dish. Chill on ice and serve.
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STRAWBERRY WHIPS
Make as for Apple Snow, allowing one cupful of straw- berries and one cup of sugar to each white of egg. Mash the berries well, then proceed as for Apple Snow. Serve in sherbet cups.
STRAWBERRY ICE AND SHERBET
See Introductory Recipes for Ices.
FROZEN STRAWBERRIES
Let whole strawberries stand for an hour with generous quantity of sugar, then pack in freezer and let stand in ice and salt five hours.
STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
Allow a quart of berries, mashed and sweetened, to each quart of mixed milk and cream scalded. Freeze. (Also see Introductory Recipes.)
STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE
Simmer for twenty minutes mashed strawberries, adding no sugar. Strain. To each pint of this juice allow a pint of sugar. Heat sugar and add to the syrup when it has been replaced on stove and is at boiling point. Skim and let boil till thick and pour over whole, hulled berries ready in heated glasses; or, pour first the syrup into the glasses, then drop the berries in the scalding syrup (not too many to each glass). When cold cover with brandied paper and set in the sun daily for a month.
STRAWBERRY PRESERVES
Use the best berries that they may need no washing. Allow a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit and place
iS4 FRUIT RECIPES
together over a slow fire with no water. Do not mash in stirring and when skimming is required set on back of stove that scum may rise before trying to remove it. When sugar is dissolved boil fast for thirty minutes; remove fruit; place in jars; boil syrup five minutes longer, then pour over the berries and seal.
TO SEAL STRAWBERRIES WITHOUT COOKING
(Old-Fashioned Recipe)
Take firm berries and weigh, allowing one-quarter pound of sugar for each pound of fruit. Place sugar and berries in layers in earthenware dishes and let stand in cool spot over night. Drain off juice without breaking berries and weigh juice. Deduct this weight from the weight of the fruit. Weigh out as much sugar as the fruit weighs with- out the juice (deducting the quarter-pound of sugar already used). Place berries and sugar in layers in large-necked jars or bottles which must be corked and wired very tight. Then place them in outer vessel of cold water and let latter come to a boil. When this exact point is reached remove and seal the corked bottle air-tight. These bottles should be looked at for six weeks daily, turning them to keep fruit from moulding, but carefully — not to break fruit.
SPICED STRAWBERRIES
Strawberries may be spiced after making into jams as below.
STRAWBERRY JAMS
Boil mashed berries in their own juice till well reduced, when add heated sugar, three-fourths to each pint of fruit or pound for pound, cooking down slowly till of desired thickness. Strawberry jam is usually too sweet. To offset this do not be afraid to add lemon juice, pie plant, or
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other tart fruit. Also a very delicious variety may be had by using with the strawberries equal quantity of goose- berry, fig, date, pineapple, cherry, currant, red raspberry, or orange or lemon marmalade.
STRAWBERRY JELLY
Strawberry jelly may be made with gelatine, of the strawberry juice alone, if tart; or, if sweet and full ripe, with red currant juice or lemon juice added. Heat berries in double boiler till juice is free, mashing them well. For each pint of resulting, strained juice, allow the juice of a small lemon or one-half cup red currant juice, and for each pint of mixed juice, one pound of sugar.
STRAWBERRY SHRUB No. 1
Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts of water and pour it over twelve pounds hulled berries (in earthen- ware), letting stand forty-eight hours, with plate to keep them down. Strain through flannel bag, then add to juice one and one-half pounds granulated sugar for each pint of juice. Stir till dissolved ; bottle ; cork and keep in cool place. (Do not seal corks.) Add two and one-half tea- spoons of this to each glass of cold water when serving.
STRAWBERRY SHRUB No. 2
Make as above up to bottling point, when pour it over ten pounds more of berries; let stand twenty-four hours; strain and add sugar, a pound for each pint. Boil then five minutes, then simmer five more, and bottle.
STRAWBERRY WINE
Scald berries ; press and strain juice ; allow to each quart two pounds sugar and one quart soft water. Ferment as
i S6 FRUIT RECIPES
for currant wine and leave cask undisturbed for six months before using.
STRAWBERRY BRANDY
To eight quarts mashed berries add four pounds loaf sugar and one gallon brandy. Pour into a four-gallon jug, tying cheesecloth over the mouth, and let stand three weeks before corking. Bottle after six months.
STRAWBERRY VINEGAR
To one gallon of strawberries take four pounds sugar. Mash together; add two gallons soft water and place in warm spot to ferment.
TO DRY STRAWBERRIES
Spread the berries on plates, sprinkling sugar over them and placing in the sun, protecting with netting as for apples.
For Strawberry Souffle, Gelatine, Fritters, etc., see Introductory Recipes and other fruits.
BLACKBERRY JAM No. I
Take equal weight of blackberries and currants, adding pound for pound of sugar (and fruit); no water; cooking slowly together till sugar is dissolved, when boil fast for thirty minutes.
BLACKBERRY JAM No. 2
If blackberries alone are used take but three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit and proceed as above.
BLACKBERRY JELLY
Extract juice as from strawberries; allow one pint heated sugar to each pint of juice. May take twenty minutes to jell.
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BLACKBERRIES PRESERVED
Allow equal weight of sugar and fruit; place in jars in layers and let stand over night. Juice should not over- flow, but if lacking fill up. (Let fruit be three inches from tops.) Cork and wire or screw on tops, letting come to boil in water bath. Let remain five minutes; seal tight and place in cooler spot till cold.
Blackberries and strawberries or pieplant may be put up together.
PICKLED BLACKBERRIES
Allow three tablespoons fruit vinegar to each quart of berries; also one cup of sugar. Boil with the sugar and vinegar a half-teaspoon each of cassia buds, mace and cloves (in bags). Add berries and cook slowly twenty minutes. Seal while hot.
BLACKBERRY CATSUP
Cover berries with boiling water; simmer ten minutes; press and strain juice, for each quart adding one-half teaspoon mace, cinnamon, white mustard and pepper. Reduce to one-fourth quantity, then add strong vinegar till of consistency liked. Bottle and seal while hot.
BLACKBERRY VINEGAR
Allow two gallons of water and a half-pound of sugar to each gallon of mashed blackberries. Mix and place in cask, with tablespoon of yeast. Set in warm place and shake every few days. May be drained off in three months to get rid of pulp or new holes bored in cask to prevent inconvenience.
BLACKBERRY WINE No. 1
For each quart of fully ripe fruit mashed and placed in tub, allow a quart of boiling (soft) water. Pour on berries
158 FRUIT RECIPES
and let stand till next day, stirring once in a while. Then press out, strain and measure juice, allowing a half- pound of sugar to each quart of the liquid (first placing sugar in a cask and straining juice into it). Stir till dis- solved, then let cask remain unstopped till fermentation is over. At this point stir in the beaten whites of four eggs or a half-ounce of gum arabic dissolved in a little water. Leave open till next day, when it may be bunged. Will be ready to bottle in two months.
BLACKBERRY WINE No. 2
Scald berries; press and strain juice, allowing for each quart of juice two quarts of soft water and three pounds of white coffee sugar. Keep bung open till fermentation ceases, when stop, and place barrel in cool place for eight months, then bottle.
BLACKBERRY CORDIAL No. i
Crush and strain berries, allowing for each quart one- half pound loaf sugar, a teaspoon each of cloves and cin- namon (powdered) and a grated nutmeg. Boil all together fifteen minutes; cool, and for each quart of syrup add one- half pint brandy. Bottle. Dose: From one teaspoon to wineglassful.
BLACKBERRY CORDIAL No. 2
To three pounds uncooked berries allow one pound white sugar and let stand twelve hours. Then press and strain, adding one-third rum or brandy and allowing one teaspoon allspice (powdered) to each quart of cordial. It must be bottled some time before it is fit for use.
BLACKBERRY BRANDY
Mix equal parts of fruit juice and brandy, for each gallon allowing one pound loaf sugar.
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BLACKBERRY SLUMP OR STEAMED PUDDING
i. Rub together two cups flour, one-half cup sugar, two- thirds cup milk, one egg, a tablespoon of butter, and two cups of berries. Sift through flour two teaspoons baking powder and pinch of salt. Stir in berries last thing, then place in buttered mould or bucket; cover well and steam two hours. Serve hot with milk or sweet sauce.
2. Fill tight-covered vessel half full of hot, stewed ber- ries; cover with biscuit dough; cover tight and bake, or steam in boiling water.
BLACKBERRY PIE
Line sides only of pan or dish and make like huckle- berry pie. Huckleberries or pieplant may be used in equal proportion with the blackberries.
BERRY MUFFINS
Into a pint of flour in which have been sifted two tea- spoons baking-powder and half-teaspoon salt, rub one-half cup butter or shortening, then add one cup milk, one table- spoon sugar and a beaten egg. When mixed well add one cup berries and bake in muffin tins twenty minutes in rather brisk oven.
BLACKBERRY FARINA
Wash, stew and mash a quart of berries (with two table- spoons water) then add one teacup farina, a pinch of salt, and cook fifty minutes in double boiler. Place in wet moulds to harden. For breakfast slice and serve with cream.
BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE
Place stale sponge cake around edges of serving dish, filling centre with berries. Heap whipped cream over the top.
i6o FRUIT RECIPES
TO DRY BLACKBERRIES
Dry in thin layers in sun (fruit not over ripe), proceed- ing as for strawberries.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS
For other methods of preparation see Introductory Recipes or adapt from other fruits.
RASPBERRY SOUP
See Introductory Recipes (Fruit Soups).
ROSE SANDWICHES
Use thin-sliced bread. Spread with a very little butter (or none) adding a thin layer of cream cheese, then stiff rasp- berry jam. Cut the bread from each corner (diagonally) across, twice, forming triangles, or with cutters, in rounds.
RASPBERRY JAM (Old English Recipe) No. i
To every pound of raspberries allow a pound of sugar, and to whatever proportion of raspberries used allow one- fourth weight of currants. Wash and strain currants and cook juice with the sugar about twenty minutes, then add the raspberries, whole, simmering together twenty-five minutes. Bottle and seal at once.
RASPBERRY JAM No. 2 AND No. 3
Make as for Blackberry Jam No. 1 and No. 2, or add equal quantity of gooseberries or strawberries.
RASPBERRY JAM No. 4
Weigh berries and simmer without water till reduced one-third, when add gradually as many pounds of heated sugar as there were berries (original weight). As soon as
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sugar is melted thoroughly and has boiled up once, place in jars and seal at once.
RASPBERRY JELLY No. I
Make as for Currant Jelly No. i.
RASPBERRY JELLY No. 2
Make as for Currant Jelly No. i , using, however, but one pint of currant juice to two of raspberries.
BLACK RASPBERRY PUDDING
Line a pudding-dish with a sweet biscuit dough and bake till a pale brown, when pour into it the stiff-beaten whites of four eggs, then, slowly, a cup of sugar, and last a quart of berries. Bake in moderate oven till done.
RED RASPBERRY PUDDING
Make as for Blackberry Pudding (Steamed), using the whipped whites of eggs in addition to yolks and serving with crushed raspberries sweetened well and heated just before serving.
RASPBERRY ICE
Make as for simple Introductory Recipe for Fruit Ices or by mixing one quart red raspberries with one pound of sugar, the juice of an orange and lemon, letting stand an hour, straining, adding a quart of water and freezing.
FROZEN RASPBERRIES
Mash but do not strain the fruit. Add to this sugar and let stand an hour before freezing.
RASPBERRY SHRUB
Pour one quart cider vinegar over two quarts red rasp- berries in a jar or crock and let stand three days, when mash
i62 FRUIT RECIPES
and strain, and to each pint of juice add one pound sugar. Boil twenty minutes, skimming well. Bottle when cold.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR OR SHRUB (Without Sugar)
Pour a quart of wine vinegar over three quarts of ber- ries and let stand two days. Press out juice; pour over fresh berries and repeat twice. Last time bottle (without sugar).
RASPBERRY ROYAL
Use four quarts of best berries. Pour over them one quart cider vinegar and add one pound sugar, mashing all to a paste. Let stand in sun four hours, when strain off juice and add one pint brandy. Bottle, seal, and place in cellar.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR (For Cooking or Table Use)
Mix twelve pounds sugar with three gallons water and six quarts raspberry juice. Let fruit pulp stand in an- other gallon of water with a pound of sugar and three tablespoons yeast till well worked up once, when strain and place with the rest of the liquor in a cask.
RASPBERRY CORDIAL
Fill stone jar with ripe berries ; cover close and let stand where it will heat gently till fruit breaks of itself. Squeeze juice through linen bag and to each quart allow one pound of loaf sugar. Let all come to a boil and skim well till scum ceases to rise, when remove from stove and put again through linen bag, pouring into a crock with brandy in equal proportion to juice. Stir, and when cold place in demijohn and cork for two weeks, when, if not clear, filter, then bottle and seal.
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RASPBERRY WINE
Mix together eight pounds sugar, eight quarts soft water, and one gallon juice of raspberries. Ferment as for Blackberry Wine. For a sweeter wine allow two quarts of water to each quart of juice and three pounds sugar. The berries for this must be simmered till soft in their own juice, strained, and the pulp washed out with a little additional water to be added, strained.
RASPBERRY CATSUP
Use a quart of vinegar to a gallon of berries. Cook longer than for blackberry catsup. Add one-half pound sugar for each quart of juice. Lemon juice may be added if liked. Otherwise proceed as with blackberries.
OLD-FASHIONED WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING
Rub a pint of flour in with a quart of whortleberries and a little salt, wetting the whole with a very little water — about a half-cup. Tie snug in a pudding cloth with no room for swelling and boil two hours. Serve with a sweet or wine sauce.
HUCKLEBERRY CAKE No. 1
Cream one cup of sugar with a half-cup of butter; add one cup of milk, two of flour, and two teaspoons baking powder. Place a pint of huckleberries in a dish and rub sugar through them well, then stir into the cake and bake in shallow pans.
HUCKLEBERRY CAKE No. 2
Sift through a quart of flour a scant teaspoon of salt and two (heaping) of baking powder. Rub into this a table- spoon of shortening, two eggs, a cup of milk, and quart of berries well sugared, and bake quickly in a shallow pan. Serve with butter or cream, cutting the cake open.
i64 FRUIT RECIPES
BLUEBERRY BREAD OR MUFFINS
Make as above or for Blackberry Muffins, in muffin rings or one shallow sheet.
HUCKLEBERRY SLUMP
See Blackberry Slump.
HUCKLEBERRY MUSH
Make as for Blackberry Farina. Serve hot or cold (sliced).
WHORTLEBERRY OR HUCKLEBERRY PIE
Line the sides of baking dish or pan with paste and fill centre with the berries, sprinkling with sugar, adding a lump of butter and a tablespoon each of flour and water. Flavour with lemon or cranberry juice. Cover with crust or lattice strips and bake.
HUCKLEBERRY JELLY
Heat berries not yet fully ripe very slowly without water. Add pound for pint of sugar and juice. The perfectly green berries or the berries mature yet hard, and red in colour, may be used alone, or one-third of each (green and red) and one-third ripe berries to give a richer, deeper colour. This last combination makes a rich, tart jelly.
HUCKLEBERRY JAM
Cook berries in their own juice and proceed as for Rasp- berry Jam No. 4. A little lemon or other tart fruit juice may be used if only the mature berries can be secured. Red and black mixed are best. Or, with the huckleberries, use equal quantity of currants or gooseberries.
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TO CAN WHORTLEBERRIES
See Introductory Recipe for Canning Fruits.
WHORTLEBERRY WINE
Scald berries with boiling water, letting stand well covered in it over night. Measure in the morning and to each gallon allow two pounds sugar, placing in cask to ferment. After this ceases close bung and let stand nine months, when filter and bottle. This may be spiced if liked.
WHORTLEBERRY VINEGAR
To each gallon of well-crushed fruit allow a pound of sugar and gallon and a half of water. Let ferment as for other fruit vinegars.
WHORTLEBERRY CATSUP
To each gallon of fruit allow two quarts boiling water; pour over and let stand twelve hours. Press through sieve and to each gallon of the liquor allow one teaspoon each of pepper, cloves, mace, white mustard, and cinnamon. Simmer an hour, then strain, and to each quart allow one- half pound sugar. Stir together and boil. Add lemon juice till sufficiently tart and dilute.
TO DRY WHORTLEBERRIES
Dry as for strawberries. Before using soak over night.
In cooking them add a little lemon or other tart fruit
juice.
CRANBERRY SAUCE
Pick over and wash a quart of cranberries, adding one and one-half cups cold water and stewing slowly about an hour. The tenderness and colour of the skins will indicate when they are done. Remove from the stove before adding sugar generously.
166 FRUIT RECIPES
CRANBERRY SYRUP
Make a syrup of a pint each of sugar and water and drop into it the whole, uncooked berries, simmering until clear and tender.
CRANBERRY JELLY
Proceed as for Cranberry Sauce till berries are tender, when add a pound of sugar for each pint of juice and sim- mer three minutes before removing from fire. Strain through coarse sieve and place in wet moulds. Serve cold.
CRANBERRY COMPOTE
Make a heavy syrup as for Cranberry Syrup and place in this (while boiling) a quart of cranberries which have been pricked with a coarse needle (twice). Cook the berries and syrup together till syrup is very thick, when remove and serve cold.
CRANBERRY SHORTCAKE
Make as for Strawberry Shortcake, using recipe for Sauce given above, and serving with a meringue.
CRANBERRY SPONGE
See Introductory Recipes for "Sponge." Use with this the Syrup.
CRANBERRY SNOW
Make as for Apple Snow, beating in the berries sub- stituted in the form of strained sauce. Serve with a simple "float."
CRANBERRY TART
Make as for Gooseberry Tart, which will give variations. Also add a cup of raisins sometimes for a change.
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STEAMED CRANBERRY PUDDING
Make a simple Batter Pudding (see Introductory Recipes) adding a cup or more of chopped, uncooked cran- berries, and flour to make rather stiff. Steam for two hours and serve with cranberry sauce.
CRANBERRY CAKE (Frozen)
Make as for Sauce, straining. Add three cups of this to a syrup made of a pint each of sugar and water. Freeze partially, then mix in one pint of cream (whipped or plain) and complete the freezing. Frozen custard or ice may also be made with the cranberry.
CRANBERRY BOMBE
Cook berries as for the Compote, adding a tablespoon of dissolved gelatine, then cool and add a pint of whipped white of egg or omit gelatine and add a pint of whipped cream. Sweeten more heavily and freeze in a bombe or melon mould as for Melon Roll. Or, freeze the berries (cooled) partially, then line the mould with the mixture and fill the centre with the whipped egg or cream.
TO KEEP CRANBERRIES (Uncooked)
Cranberries may be dried, or may be bottled, filling up with cold water, then corked and placed in cool dry place. Sometimes a good firkin will answer the same purpose when examined frequently.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CRANBERRIES
Cranberries make an excellent Roly Poly or may be spiced or used as jam adjunct or the syrup in drinks (shrubs and cordials) ; are more susceptible of variation than generally supposed and, being more wholesome than al- most any other tart sauce, should be more widely used.
168 FRUIT RECIPES
GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MULBERRIES
Mulberries may be used in all ways suitable for black- or raspberries but are superior to them or almost any other fruit in the matter of jelly-making, having the rich colour and tartness of currant with a little more "body," but very tender. For shrub and rob, also, the mulberry has few rivals.
MULBERRY JELLY No. i
For a most brilliant, crimson jelly, tart and firm, use only the hard, red, immature berries (those nearly full- sized). To each three quarts of berries add one quart cold water. Let simmer slowly together fifty minutes, when add a second quart of cold water and simmer again for an hour, mashing well the berries. The resulting juice should be thick and rich-looking. Have sugar ready, heat- ed, in another pan, and allow a pint for each pint of juice. Skim well. When the sugar has quite dissolved and boiled three minutes test it, for it may then be ready to pour into glasses. Five minutes is usually quite sufficient. Place in the sun till firm and cool.
MULBERRY JELLY No. 2
For a darker, sweet, jelly, use equal parts of the hard red (or even the berries scarcely yet red), and fully ripe berries. Use but a pint of water with three quarts of berries, simmering till all juice can be extracted by mashing in the kettle. Strain well and proceed as above.
MULBERRY MARMALADE AND JAM
These may be made from the berries used for jelly, in which case the stems must be clipped before cooking, but they are richer to be made with fresh, uncooked berries. For Marmalade mash the pulp and put through coarse
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sieve, return to fire with equal measure of sugar, and cook till of desired consistency. For the Jam simmer the ber- ries in their own juice till tender but whole. Add sugar as above and cook till thick as desired.
MULBERRY WINE
Shake the ripe or partly ripe berries from tree on to clean sacking or sheeting and place in a tub where they may be well pounded and mashed. Strain, and to each gallon of juice add three pounds of sugar, placing in a cask with open bung. This should ferment and be fit for racking off into another cask in six weeks. Will be fit for bottling and use in eight months.
MULBERRY BRANDY
To each quart of juice allow a quart of brandy and one pound of sugar. Let stand six weeks, then filter and bottle.
ROB OF ELDER
Boil the juice of elderberries with spices; one quart of juice to one tablespoon each of cloves, nutmeg, and cinna- mon. At the end of a half hour strain and add one-half pound loaf sugar. Boil and skim again. Let cool, add a half-pint of "fourth" brandy, and bottle. Or first make a heavy syrup of juice and sugar, then spice lightly with clove alone. Seal while hot.
SYRUP OF ROB OF ELDER (For Coughs)
To a pint of juice from elderberries add a pint of molasses and boil twenty minutes, stirring all the while. When quite cold add three-fourths teacup of brandy for each quart.
i7o FRUIT RECIPES
ELDERBERRY WINE No. i
Strain the juice of crushed berries, adding for six quarts of juice a half-gallon of water. Use three pounds of sugar to each gallon of the liquid. Let ferment in a cask or open earthen jar, filling up as it evaporates. When fermentation ceases stop well and set aside for eight months before racking off.
ELDERBERRY WINE No. 2 (Spiced)
Boil five gallons elderberries with same amount of rain- water. Strain and add twenty-three pounds white sugar with four ounces red (or crude) tartar and to each gallon allow a dessertspoon of strong yeast. Add one-half ounce each of ginger, nutmeg, mace, and cloves with one and a half ounces bitter almonds. Let ferment and when this is over close cask tight, racking it off later at convenience.
ELDER BLOSSOM WINE (Home-brewed Frontignac)
Allow a gallon of water to each quart of stripped flowers, and to each gallon of water three pounds of sugar. Make a good syrup of sugar and water, skimming well, and pouring while boiling over the flowers. To each gallon of this liquor add the juice of one lemon and a heaping dessert- spoon of "home-brewed hop-yeast," stirring thoroughly. Place in wooden or earthen receptacle, covered with a heavy cloth, and let ferment three days. Then strain and add the beaten white of one egg, stirring well through the liquid. Allow for each gallon of wine a little over a pound of raisins, chopping them and placing on the bottom of the cask. On them pour the wine; close the bung, and in six months it will be found ready for use.
ELDERBERRY BRANDY
For each gallon of berries allow a gallon of brandy and let stand a month before using. Spice may be added if wished.
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ELDER-FLAVOURED ALE
Allow a bushel of the berries to a cask of ale and eight ounces each of cinnamon, candied lemon or orange peel, nutmeg, mace, cloves, and ginger.
ELDERBERRY CATSUP (For Fish or Flavouring Meat Sauces)
Place a gallon of ripe berries in a jar and pour over them one gallon boiling vinegar, letting stand in this over night on back of warm stove. In the morning strain and place the vinegar in preserving kettle to heat. Crush and rub berries through sieve and add to the vinegar a teaspoon each of grated nutmeg, clove and cinnamon, one-half tea- spoon each salt and ginger, and two blades of mace. Boil for ten minutes, then bottle (spice and all) while hot. Let stand five or six weeks, then strain; re-heat to boiling point and re-bottle.
ELDERBERRY JELLY
This may be made of the elderberries alone, plain, spiced, or with lemon juice added, or half and half, with green or ripe grapes (former preferably), gooseberries, or currants.
ELDER-FLOWER PANCAKES AND JUNKET
The finest flowers of the elder blossoms, stripped, may be whipped lightly into pancakes or muffins just before baking, a half-cupful to each " batch' ' of ordinary quan- tity This gives both lightness and flavour. A plain junket should have added one-fourth part flowers to quantity of cream or milk used.
ELDERBERRY TARTS
The elderberry is equal to the huckleberry for tarts but should have spices or lemon added to flavour.
i72 FRUIT RECIPES
ELDERBERRIES DRIED
Sun-dry the berries as for strawberries. (In some parts of Europe peasants use these in soups through the winter.)
ELDER-FLOWER WATER
To five pounds of flowers take one gallon water and one- half ounce rectified spirits. Distil off a half-gallon.
WHITE ELDER OINTMENT
Boil equal weight of elder flowers and fresh sweet lard or suet and strain through a cloth into boxes or jars. This is considered a cooling application.
DRIED BARBERRIES
Dry as for other berries in a loose layer in the sun.
BARBERRIES PRESERVED (Cold)
Place bunches of barberries in jars (uncooked) ; fill up with cold molasses, and seal tight.
PRESERVED BARBERRIES COOKED
Place berries in double boiler for two hours or till heated through. Remove and weigh. Allow equal weight of berries and sugar but cook berries with no water (on re- placing) twenty minutes before adding sugar. When sugar has dissolved, berries soften and juice begins to jell, remove to jars and seal.
BARBERRY JAM
Allow one-quarter pound sugar to each quart ripe berries. Mash them; mix with sugar (no water) and boil till no scum rises. Cook an hour or over, always. The jam may be put up as it is, or made into marmalade, mashed through
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a coarse sieve. Added to fig or pear or apple the jam proves a source of pleasing variety in flavour.
SYRUP OF BARBERRIES (For Drinks, etc.)
Cook berries till soft and clear, then cook with syrup as for Cranberry Syrup, mashing berries; straining and re- turning to fire to cook again before bottling. This syrup may be used for ices, puddings, etc., or combined, as is currant or cranberry or lemon juice, with other fruits for jellies, pies, or other "dishes. " With raisins, pears, figs, or apples it is particularly good for tarts.
RED CURRANT JELLY No. I
Pick the fruit on a dry day before the currants are quite ripe. Stem them and scald over boiling water (in an inner vessel), then let the currants remain an hour over a moder- ate fire. Pour into a jelly bag without crushing and let drip over night. Place juice in preserving kettle and let boil ten minutes. Skim, and when just at a boil stir in the sugar, having measured the cold juice and allowing for each full pint one and one-fourth pounds sugar (heated). This should jell by the time sugar is dissolved, requiring never more than five minutes. Let stand in sun several
days.
WHITE CURRANT JELLY
Make by above method.
BLACK CURRANT JELLY
Black Currant Jelly may be made as above with the ex- ception of adding a little water to the fruit when first put on, otherwise the syrup would be too thick.
RED CURRANT JELLY No. 2 (Without Cooking)
Crush currants without stemming and squeeze through a coarse cloth. Weigh, instead of measuring juice, and
i74 FRUIT RECIPES
allow a pound of sugar for each pound of juice. Stir together with the hand till sugar is smoothly dissolved. Place in glasses and let stand in window where hot sun- light may shine on them through glass for at least five days. Cover and keep in cool, dry place.
BAR-LE-DUC (Imitation of the Imported Jam or Jelly)
i. Add one-fifth part of currants (by weight) to red raspberries. Crush and strain currants and weigh again, this time with the raspberries, fruit separated by paper. Add three-quarters pound of sugar for each pound of the second weighing of fruit and juice and simmer, then boil — skimming — for twenty-five minutes, when add the rasp- berries (uncrushed) and boil until the juice jells (in about fifteen minutes) , then remove and seal well while hot.
2. Boil together five minutes two-thirds measure of sugar (as two pints) to one of cold water. Measure the syrup resulting and when again boil- ing add to it equal measure of strained red or white currant juice. When this jells add seeded garden currants which have been carefully opened with fine sharp wooden blade or a quill. If the measure of syrup is one pint add one pint currants; if a quart, then a quart of currants and so on. Let boil up once when remove; pour into jars and set (uncovered) in a dark, dry, and cool place for five or six days, then seal. The currant juice is sometimes omitted, only the sugar syrup and fruit used. The currants, if red, should be pale in colour.
RED CURRANT JAM
Wash, stem, and weigh currants, allowing equal weight of sugar, adding it when fruit has been boiling three minutes. When dissolved and at boiling point remove and place in jars.
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 175
To make a darker, thicker jam boil sugar and fruit together an hour.
BLACK CURRANT JAM
Make as above but ~ook fifteen minutes before adding sugar, then fifteen minutes before removing, stirring all the while.
CURRANT RAISIN JAM
Wash, drain, seed, and chop two pounds Muscatel raisins and place in preserving kettle. Meanwhile have ready, washed and stemmed, sufficient white currants to make three quarts of juice when mashed and strained. Add to this three pounds of sugar and stir the sweetened juice into the raisins. Mix well and let slowly come to a boil, skim- ming and stirring till it is thick and smooth. Let cool; place in jars and seal.
SPICED CURRANTS
Three pounds sugar; five pounds currants; one pint vinegar; tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and allspice, with one teaspoon salt. Simmer carefully three hours, then bottle.
CURRANT CATSUP
To four pounds washed, stemmed currants add two pounds brown sugar and one pint vinegar. Simmer till sufficiently thick when add spice (one teaspoon each cloves, pepper, and cinnamon). Boil five minutes longer; strain and bottle.
CURRANT SHORTCAKE
Make a sweet shortcake, placing between layers and on top washed, mashed currants well sweetened, with a merringue, lightly browned.
i76 FRUIT RECIPES
RED CURRANT PUDDING
Stew two-thirds currants and one-third raspberries with a little sugar till soft; pour off juice and place fruit in a pudding-dish lined with stale sponge cake. Let stand till cold with cake on top and on this a weight. Boil down the juice poured off and when ready to serve pour it over the pudding.
CURRANT ICE AND SHERBET
To each quart of juice allow a pound of sugar. Let gently heat till sugar is melted when cool and freeze. Serve with stemmed currants sprinkled over the ice in sherbet glasses. Sweet raspberry syrup will lessen the tartness and give variation of flavour. For sherbet add the usual whipped whites of eggs (see Introductory Recipes).
CURRANT ICE CREAM
Partly freeze the cream or custard before adding currant juice. Where fresh or canned currants are not to be had two teaspoons of currant jelly and juice of one lemon may be used for each pint of the frozen mixture (cream, custard, or ice).
CURRANT CUP
Cook into syrup a pint each of sugar and water. When cool pour it over stemmed currants and set on ice four hours. Serve in sherbet glasses.
CURRANT SHRUB
Strain currant juice and allow a pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Boil five minutes, then stir till cool. Bottle when cold. Old-fashioned proportion is one tablespoon to each glass of water. Another shrub calls for a wineglass of brandy to each pint of syrup.
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 177
RED CURRANT WINE
To a quart each of currant juice and sugar allow two quarts of water. Place in a cask unstopped, for three weeks, when place bung in loosely for a week longer — until all danger of fermentation is past. Then seal tight and let stand a year before using.
CURRANT AND RASPBERRY WINE
To four gallons of red currants add one quart red rasp- berries; scald, crush, and strain. On the pulp pour five and a half gallons cold water and one pound sliced red beet, letting stand over night. When strained add this to the juice. Dissolve in the whole ten pounds white sugar and three ounces red tartar. Place in cask and when fermenta- tion has ceased bung tight and let stand eight months.
BLACK CURRANT AND STRAWBERRY WINE
To three gallons black currants add six quarts straw- berries, two ounces red tartar, and twelve and a half pounds of sugar. Heat the fruit and press out juice then add sugar. When dissolved stir in five and a half gallons soft water and let ferment.
GREEN CURRANT WINE
Take full grown currants still green in colour. Stem and weigh and allow for each three pounds one gallon water. Mash and proceed as with Gooseberry Champagne, using brown instead of white sugar.
BLACK CURRANT BRANDY (For Intestinal Disorders)
In one gallon cold water place two gallons black currants. Let heat gradually and boil one-half hour. Remove and cool; add two gallons deodorised pure spirits; stir and
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strain, mashing fruit to extract juice. To juice add four pounds sugar and place in a cask. Wash fruit pulp in half-gallon each of water and spirits; mash and strain again; add two more pounds sugar and pour in with first liquor (in cask). May be used in a month but improves with age.
WHITE CURRANT BRANDY
To each half-gallon currant juice add one quart spirits and two pounds sugar. Let stand undisturbed three months before bottling.
CURRANT VINEGAR
Pour juice from two gallons mashed currants in a barrel ; wash remaining pulp in water; add to it two gallons molas- ses; strain when dissolved and pour also into the barrel with enough soft water to fill barrel two-thirds full. Dis- solve meantime a cup of strong yeast in a gallon of water and add to the mixture. Place barrel in sun and while fermenting shake often. The autumn following add eight gallons water.
CURRANT PUNCH
Make a syrup of a pint each of sugar and water, boiling and skimming. Add juice of an orange and lemon; strain, and mix in a glass of currant jelly or half pint currant juice. Let cool, then add shaved ice and charged water.
DRIED GARDEN CURRANTS
Pick just before ripe; stew without crushing in a little sugar; spread on plates, with sugar strewn thickly over, and dry in the sun. To be eaten as they are as a relish, or as confection with desserts. May also be soaked over night and stewed for sauce.
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES i79
CURRANTS IN SALADS
Red currants make one of the most artistic additions to salads, the loose sprays laid around the edges of the plates, or as a garnish to a salad bowl or, stemmed, used with other fruits or with vegetables for the body of a salad.
CURRANT COLOURING
Currant juice may be preserved (see Introductory Recipes) and may be used effectively for colouring sauces, drinks, ices, creams, or as flavouring.
CURRANTS— TO SERVE SIMPLY UNCOOKED
Currants may be iced as for frosted grapes and cherries or may be crushed and sweetened a little before serving uncooked.
GOOSEBERRY JELLY
Use no water. Heat berries through and press to extract all juice. Strain and measure, allowing pound for pint of sugar and juice. Boil ten minutes and place in glasses.
GOOSEBERRY JAMS
When used alone cook the gooseberries as for jelly, using the pulp for jams; strain to remove skins and seeds; allow equal weight of sugar and cook to thickness desired. Or, fresh berries may be cooked down in their own juice, adding, when tender, equal weight of sugar.
Gooseberries and strawberries in equal weight make a delicious jam and gooseberries with raspberries or some one of the citrus fruit marmalades form a most agreeable com- bination.
GOOSEBERRY AND RED CURRANT JAM
Allow two cups red currant juice to each four pounds of gooseberries and three pounds sugar. Make a syrup and
180 FRUIT RECIPES
place the berries in it, simmering forty minutes, till berries are translucent, when they are ready to seal.
GOOSEBERRIES AND WHITE CURRANT JAM
Use equal weight of gooseberries, and currants and sugar equal to their combined weight. Simmer together slowly, crushing and cooking till tender and thick.
PRESERVED WHOLE GOOSEBERRIES
Make a strong syrup of two pounds of sugar to a pint of water. Prick gooseberries in several places and put them in the syrup. Let heat to 1600 and take from stove but let berries remain in syrup over night. Repeat twice; then re-heat, stopping just short of boiling point, again letting berries stand over night in the syrup. While still cold place them in bottles with syrup poured over and set bottles in the water-bath to finish. Should the berries seem to be cracking before the water boils remove bottles at once and seal; otherwise let stand till water is at boiling point.
SIMPLE GOOSEBERRY PIE
To gooseberries stewed in a little water add sugar to taste, then crush fruit somewhat; add dessertspoon each of flour and butter (mixed). Place all in pan or dish with paste-lined sides and cover with crust, pricked or slashed, and bake.
GOOSEBERRY TART No. i
Stew berries like cranberries, using two-thirds as much sugar as fruit. Line tin or dish with pastry and bake it till light brown before placing gooseberries in it. Finish with diagonal lattice of pastry; replace in oven and bake till done.
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 181
GOOSEBERRY TART No. 2
Place sugar on ripe, uncooked berries, letting stand till clear, when mash through coarse sieve and fill pastry shells (already half-baked). Replace in oven till heated through, when place meringue on top and lightly brown. Whipped cream may be substituted for meringue or canned berries for the fresh. Also the very small tart shells may be used.
GOOSEBERRY TART No. 3
Line sides of dish with short crust. Pile ripe, uncooked berries in centre with one-fourth pint sugar and place crust on top. Prick well. Bake three-quarters of an hour; sprinkle fine sugar and nutmeg on top and serve with a jug of cream and dish of custards.
GOOSEBERRY PUDDING (Boiled)
Top and tail a quart of full-grown but green berries; scald and let stand till cold, after which drain them. Chop six ounces of beef suet and rub well through a pound of flour, adding a half-teaspoon of salt and a half-pint of ice water — just enough to keep the dough together. Roll out in circular form and place gooseberries in the middle, meantime having added to them a half-pound of sugar. (More added before boiling would toughen them.) Draw up the dough as for dumplings and place in a wet, dredged pudding cloth; tie, leaving room for swelling, and place in a pot of fast boiling water, with plate at bottom to pre- vent scorching. Boil three hours, turning once in a while and filling up with boiling water as needed. Serve with sugar.
GOOSEBERRY FOOL No. 1
Top and tail a quart of ripe berries and simmer in a pint of water. When the fruit turns colour, is soft and swelled
z8.2 FRUIT RECIPES
drain and put it through a colander. Add one-half pound sugar and let cool. Heat a quart of milk and stir into it carefully the beaten yolks of two eggs. Let thicken and flavour with nutmeg then remove and mix carefully with the cold fruit.
GOOSEBERRY FOOL No. 2
Prepare very young gooseberries as above and when cool add to them gradually a quart of cream, whipping well. Serve cold.
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR LAMB
Scald a half-pint of berries and stir into a pint of drawn butter. • Serve hot.
GOOSEBERRY CATSUP
Make as for Currant Catsup, using five pounds goose- berries with two pounds of sugar.
GOOSEBERRY CHUTNEY
To two full pints of nearly ripe gooseberries allow three- fourths pound of raisins and three onions. Chop together and heat slowly with one cup brown sugar, three table- spoons each of mustard, ginger, and salt, a saltspoon of red pepper and a little turmeric. Simmer forty minutes with two pints vinegar, then strain through coarse sieve and seal in little jars.
GOOSEBERRY CHIPS
Place gooseberries in jars and let them boil in outer vessel till soft. Remove and to each pound of pulp allow a half-pound sifted loaf sugar. Place this, well mixed — about an eighth of an inch thick — in flat dishes; set in sun and dry, which may require several days. The dried cakes may be cut in strips and twisted.
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 183
GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR
Let two quarts crushed gooseberries (not fully ripe) stand forty-eight hours in three quarts water, when press and strain. Allow a pint of sugar to each gallon and one tablespoon yeast for fermentation.
GOOSEBERRY WINE
Use fully grown but not thoroughly ripened berries, removing blossoms and stems and bruising fruit without crushing seeds or skins. To twenty pounds of berries add two gallons rain-water, stirring and mashing fruit until it is cleared from the skin. Let stand six hours then strain free of seeds and skins and bring resulting juice to a boil. Have dissolved fifteen pounds sugar and add this to juice as it heats. Meantime let seeds and skins be soaking in a gallon of water. When the sugar and first liquor are at boiling point add this second quantity, strained. Measure it all and add sufficient water to bring whole quantity up to five gallons. Let this ferment in cask, covering bung- hole with cheesecloth and allowing room for fermentation. When this has ceased stop the bung and let wine stand six or seven months before using.
GOOSEBERRY CHAMPAGNE
Take well-filled-out but green berries and top and tail them. To each three pounds allow one gallon soft water. Place berries in a large crock or tub with a little of the water and pound them heavily, mashing thoroughly. Add the rest of the water then stir briskly. Cover with cloth and for each of four days succeeding stir well and often. Then strain off, adding to the clear liquor four pounds of sugar for each gallon. Also, add to each five gallons one quart best brandy. Mix and place in a cask, filling lat- ter full. Place bung lightly on top — the cask on its side in
x84 FRUIT RECIPES
a cool dry place where it will not be shaken in the slightest degree. Let ferment thoroughly — perhaps three weeks — then bottle, corking well and placing bottles on sides. This will be fit to use in eight months and if rightly made will be very like champagne.
GOOSEBERRY WATER ICE
Squeeze juice from stewed berries unsweetened, or the very ripe berries, allowing a pound of sugar to each pint. Mix well and freeze.
The juice from the stewed fruit may be used further, for custards and creams as welL
CHAPTER XIV THE LEMON (Citrus limonum: Rutacea)
LEMONS are not often enough used as food, drink, or medicine. There is nothing more wholesome in natural foods, more effective in toning the system and purifying the blood (unless for some special reason the acid is directly prohibited ; see note on potash in Introduction) than this most positive of citrus fruits. It is a special agent with the liver, acting directly upon it and assisting with the proper action of the bowels, cooling the blood and reaching or preventing a long list of ailments which take their rise in disorders of the liver. It is true that the liver may be made torpid by the nerves, which affect it strongly, so that worry, for instance, will partially paralyse its freedom and cause heavy colds and more serious troubles, but whether from improper physical or mental diet — from whatever cause — a clogged liver can make one as miserable, as discouraged and ill as one can be and live. If too late to remove the cause the condition should be relieved or it goes further, being, without doubt, the cause of suicides from the resulting mental depression, as well as " death from natural causes," through disordering the functions of other vital organs of the body. Vividly picturesque descriptions of the horrors of these various resulting com- plications may be found in almost any patent medicine circular, for it is upon the liver that the authors of these literary gems place the blame for most of the ills to which flesh is heir.
The public is not so apt to seek or dwell upon written
i8S
186 FRUIT RECIPES
or realised liver-nightmares when lemons are plentifully and judiciously used. Malaria is one of the " simple* ' and direct results of a rebellious, inactive liver, and one most commonly known. Typhoid, with its more serious, complicated aspect, comes under this head, yet physicians claim that even these germs can be driven out or actually killed by the plentiful and timely use of lemons. It is, however, not only the juice which is beneficial sometimes, the rind being a helpful accessory, as the method of pre- paring and using it in Roman malarial districts proves, as does also an old-fashioned remedy for colds. It is claimed that it will entirely prevent or cure scurvy and "in England every foreign-going ship is required by law to take such a supply of lemon juice that every seaman shall have a daily allowance of an ounce after having been ten days at sea " — Wood & Bache. As a cooling drink its refrigerant qualities are proven — especially when used without sugar, which is heating. Even merely as an ac- cessory or flavouring it is extremely refreshing in food or drink and many not commonly known ways of using the lemon are here presented, as well as others more conven- tional, as of value in that very common and natural desire for variety. (It should be remembered that lemon juice, or any other acid, should never be placed in tin recep- tacles. Use enamel or porcelain.)
RECIPES
ITALIAN CURE FOR MALARIA
Slice thin one legion — rind and all — and place in sauce- pan. Over this pour one and a half pints cold water and cook down to one-half pint, then strain through coarse cotton or linen so that part of the tender pulp and rind exude. Let stand till cool and drink it fasting. This should be kept up — continuously — for some days.
THE LEMON 187
BAKED LEMON FOR COLDS
Bake a lemon whole till thoroughly tender and eat it hot with sugar just before retiring. It is best to do without the evening meal and to fast otherwise as far as possible. Also drink much water. This should be taken three nights in succession. *
FLAXSEED LEMONADE
Another old-fashioned and generally effective remedy for colds is this laxative drink: Pour a quart of boiling water over a cup of flaxseed. Add juice of two lemons and sugar to taste. Let steep in covered jug several hours and drink hot just before retiring. (This may be thinned if preferred.)
LEMON CORDIAL (Old Recipe)
Steep for twenty-four hours the yellow rinds (only) of two dozen lemons in a gallon of French brandy, meantime having rolled the lemons and squeezed pulp with juice into four pounds of sugar dissolved in a gallon of water. Strain, and when the lemon rind is ready to mix add a quart and a pint of milk at boiling point. Let stand twenty-four hours, then strain and bottle.
LEMON FOR HOARSENESS
The stiff-beaten white of an egg with the juice of one lemon and sugar or honey added generously is excellent in relieving hoarseness.
LEMON FOR HEADACHE
The juice of a large lemon squeezed into a small cup of strong, black coffee (no sugar) will often prevent or cure a headache.
188 FRUIT RECIPES
LEMONS IN DRINKS
When one is forty miles from a lemon, one may still have "lemonade" by using citric acid in crystals or pul- verised, with or without a pure lemon tincture as flavouring. No ill effects can accrue from using this acid in such trifling quantity as required to make tart a drink or pudding-sauce. It cannot completely take the place of the fruit juice, but, as it is the acid found in and taken from the fruits of the citrus family, it can be substituted, therefore, if necessary, in moderation without harm.
TEA WITH LEMON JUICE
This is not a mere fad or "foreign fashion " without foun- dation of reason. There is a scientific fact beneath the surface. Where either lime or lemon juice is used in the clear tea (with or without sugar) there is little possibility of harm resulting from the effect of the tea (such as may be felt when tea, pure and simple, is used) since the citric acid of the fruit offsets the tannic acid of the tea, rendering it refreshing and wholesome. (It is perhaps needless to add that the black, perfectly cured teas should be used; not the green or mixed teas.)
LEMON "SQUASH" OR SIMPLE LEMONADE
For a good plain lemonade (called "Lemon Squash" by our British cousins) use one lemon to one pint of water, adding very little or no sugar if one wishes the most cooling effect, as sugar "evolves heat during oxidation," and should be avoided only a degree less than alcohol in hot weather.
SIMPLE EGG LEMONADE (For One)
Beat the white and yolk of one egg, separately, then together, and add one tablespoonful of sugar, the juice of one lemon and a coffee cupful of water, then whip again.
THE LEMON 189
Strain this, pouring it on to a large tablespoonful of shaved ice; shake up and pour into glass from which it is to be served.
EGG LEMONADE WITH SHERRY (In Quantity)
Slice thin four lemons, add six dessertspoonfuls of sugar and pour over this three pints of boiling water. Let stand several hours, then add one-half pint of sherry. Strain and add the well- whipped whites of the four eggs and a pinch of salt. Pack ice around the pitcher and when chilled serve.
ITALIAN LEMONADE
Slice one dozen lemons, add to them a pound of sugar, and let stand over night. In the morning strain, add one pint of sherry and three pints of boiling water. Beat or shake this well, then add one pint of boiling milk and strain. Drink hot or cold.
LEMON-ORANGEADE
Use as many oranges as lemons and carbonated, instead of "plain," water. Mix the juice with amount of sugar re- quired some hours before serving, at the last moment, only, adding the carbonated water. Pineapple juice may be substituted for the orange, and as an artistic finish, a graceful touch is the addition of shredded orange, pine- apple, cherries, berries, or angelica.
LEMON GINGER BEER
Pour eight quarts of cold water over six thin-sliced lemons, with one and a half pounds of sugar and a little less than an ounce of ginger root. Let this come to a boil before adding one tablespoonful of cream of tartar, then strain and let stand till cool, when a yeast cake dissolved or broken into bits should be stirred in and the whole
i9o FRUIT RECIPES
allowed to stand over night. In the morning mix thoroughly and bottle (corking tight), placing bottles on the side in cool place. In twelve hours the beer will be ready for use.
LEMON WHEY
Boil together for five minutes a pint each of milk and water and the juice of two lemons. Strain and add sugar to taste.
LEMON SYRUP (With Lemons)
The following recipe makes it possible to have real lem- onade at any time. To each pint of lemon juice add one pint of water and two and a half pounds of sugar. Add the grated rind of the lemons used, then place in enamelled kettle and simmer slowly until thick, when it should be strained and bottled (hot).
LEMON SYRUP (Without Lemons)
To three pints of water add six pounds of sugar and boil five minutes. Into this stir the white of one egg beaten up with half a pint of cold water. When a scum rises (as it will in a few moments) set the kettle off the fire and let stand five minutes, when the scum must be removed. When cool measure and to a gallon of syrup add three ounces of tartaric acid dissolved in half a pint of hot water. With this add one teaspoonful of oil of lemon. The latter must be absolutely sweet and fresh; if the least rancid the syrup will be spoiled.
LEMON TINCTURE FOR FLAVOURING
Pare the len^ns quite thin and cover the shavings of the yellow rind with good grain-alcohol. Cork tight. When ready for use the alcohol will be bright yellow. This should then be poured off into a second bottle from which it is to be used.
THE LEMON 191
LEMON SUGAR FOR FLAVOURING (Or "Zest")
Rub lumps of sugar over lemon rind until the oil cells are broken, when the oil will be absorbed by the sugar. Place the sugar in an air-tight jar and it will be ready for dissolving at any time.
LEMON RIND PRESERVE
Save the lemon shells left after squeezing for lemonade, etc., and drop them into a jar of fresh water, changing the latter every third day and at this time removing carefully the drops of oil found floating on the water. These should be put into a special bottle as they are the pure oil of lemon. At the end of two weeks scrape out the soft, inside, pulp, leaving only the rind shell. To the yellow shells sugar should be added in proportion of pound for pound and cooked slowly into a thick preserve.
LEMON PRESERVES (With White Pulp)
Boil the entire lemon " husks" (after squeezing from them the juice for other uses) in fresh water until tender, then cook in a syrup (previously prepared) made of five pounds of sugar to a pint of water. Cook until preserves are thick, clear, and yellow, but not too dark in colour.
LEMON MARMALADE
To six pounds of lemons take nine pounds of sugar. Peel the lemons, then cover yellow parings with water and boil until tender. Drain and let cool, then shred fine the parings. Meantime halve the peeled fruit crosswise and press out juice and soft pulp. Cover the shells of white pulp remaining with three pints of cold water and boil one-half hour. Strain off this liquor and add it to the juice and soft pulp, with the yellow rinds. Boil all
i92 FRUIT RECIPES
together ten minutes, then add heated sugar; boil down to desired consistency and place, while boiling hot, in small jars or marmalade pots.
LEMON JELLY No. i (Without Gelatine)
It is usually considered impossible to make lemon jelly without gelatine but by the following process the appar- ently impossible may be achieved. Small quantities are best managed and most successful in results. Slice four lemons very thin and cover (in granite kettle) with two quarts of cold water. Cook down to one-half the quantity and strain, squeezing skin and pulp as well as juice through a coarse cheesecloth bag. Cook again and when at boil- ing point strain a second time but through a fine bag. Re- turn juice to kettle and after ten minutes' simmering add hot sugar in proportion of one heaping pint to one scant pint of juice. Boil until sugar melts and it jells, which should require but five or six minutes. The result is a light tender jelly which will acquire firmness by being set in the hot sun several days in succession.
A second method is to proceed as above, wTith the addition of uncooked "pie-melon" pulp (half and half with the lemon in weight), using sugar in proportionate addition.
LEMON JELLY No. 2 (With Gelatine)
Soak one box of gelatine (American brands preferably) in one pint of cold water for an hour, when add one quart of boiling water and two cups of sugar. Stir until gelatine is thoroughly dissolved. When cool add the juice of four lemons and strain through coarse cotton cloth into glasses or other moulds when partly cool, setting on ice to harden. This may be more tart than desired; if so add sugar just at the last. In warm weather if ice is unavailable use but one pint of hot water.
THE LEMON 195
meringue made of the whipped whites of the eggs and one- half cup of sugar, and brown in oven.
LEMON RICE PUDDING
To one quart of cold milk add two (small), level table- spoonfuls of rice, the grated rind of two lemons, and one-half cup of sugar. Let cook in double boiler until rice grains are well filled out and tender, then place in baking dish and bake for an hour, stirring the pudding a number of times meanwhile (even though a light brown skin forms repeated- ly) till the last fifteen minutes, when it should be allowed to brown. Add more sugar if not sweet as desired on plac- ing in oven. This will be creamy and delicate.
LEMON SAGO AND TAPIOCA
Either tapioca or sago may be used for this with de- licious results, and the pudding may be made either clear and tart or creamy and sweet. If the former is preferred use water instead of milk. To one quart of cold water or milk add two large tablespoonfuls of tapioca or sago and soak for an hour, then let come to a boil on moderate fire. With the water use the juice of two large or three small lemons with the grated rind of one, and a small cup of sugar. With the milk substituted use only the grated rind (no juice). When clear, soft, and thick, remove from fire and beat in lightly the whipped whites of two eggs. When cool place on ice. It is unnecessary to add the whites of the eggs but they give a more delicate, feathery consistency.
LEMON SPONGE
Soak one box of gelatine in one and a half pints of cold water then place in granite kettle with the grated rind and juice of three lemons and one cup of sugar. Let boil, pour
196 FRUIT RECIPES
off, and cool. (If the grated rind is not desired except for flavour the liquor should at this stage be strained.) When beginning to set add the whipped whites of two eggs and beat until spongy in appearance (length of time required differs with temperature). Then heap lightly in the dish from which it is to be served or in mould and place on ice. Should this be made in warm weather when impossible to procure ice, the whipped whites should not be beaten in thoroughly but the gelatine allowed to set and the egg- froth rising to the top should be served with the sponge as a sauce. By placing the bowl containing the gelatine in an outer vessel of cold water and changing the water about every half-hour or twenty minutes, the sponge will harden better.
BOILED LEMON PUDDING
Beat together one-fourth pound of butter, one-half pound of sugar, the grated rind of two lemons, and two table- spoons of flour, with a pinch of salt. In a separate basin stir one-half pound of bread-crumbs, with the juice of the lemon, and four eggs well beaten (previously), then add to the prepared batter. Tie securely in a well-dredged pudding-cloth (leaving room for swelling) and boil three hours. Serve with hard sauce.
LEMON DUMPLINGS
These dumplings may be made in two ways; by using a soft, sweet biscuit dough, cutting out as for large bis- cuits, placing in the centre of each a teaspoonful of lemon marmalade, and tying in large squares of cotton or linen, and dropping in boiling water for forty-five minutes (these may be baked, instead), or by the following recipe : Mix thoroughly a half-pound of bread, grated, one-fourth pound each of sugar and suet, the grated rind of two and juice of one lemon; one grated, tart apple or cup of tart pineapple,
THE LEMON 197
and two tablespoons of flour rubbed smooth in two well- beaten eggs. Tie in squares of cloth and boil three-fourths of an hour, putting plate underneath to prevent sticking. Serve with the following sauce :
LEMON PUDDING SAUCE
One and one-half cups of sugar, one well-beaten egg, juice and rind of one lemon, and one-fourth pound of butter. When thoroughly mixed, and pudding about to be served, add one pint boiling water but do not cook. If not sufficiently tart add juice of second lemon.
LEMON LOAF CAKE
Beat to a cream one and a half cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, adding gradually, the beaten yolks of two eggs, one cup of sweet milk, grated rind of two lemons, three and one-half cups of flour, with a pinch of salt and heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder sifted through the flour, whipping in at the last of the mixing the stiff-beaten white of one egg (a half-teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and cup of raisins may be added sometimes to vary this). To make the icing place one and a half cups of sugar in a saucepan with juice of two lemons and grated rind of one. Boil till it strings from spoon, when pour over the stiff- whipped white of one egg and beat with fork till icing begins to stiffen, then spread on top and sides of cake.
LEMON CUSTARD LAYER CAKE
Two cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of milk, three eggs, one and a half teaspoons of baking-powder, and three cups of flour. This makes four layers. For filling take the juice and grated rind of two lemons, one egg, one cup of sugar and one-half cup of water, one
i98 FRUIT RECIPES
teaspoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour mixed smooth with a little of the water. Boil this together until it thickens (watching carefully), then place between layers.
LEMON SNAPS
Beat together one cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, adding two eggs, one-half teaspoon of soda dissolved in four tablespoons of hot water, and one tablespoon of lemon juice with grated rind of two lemons. Add sufficient flour to roll soft and thin and bake in a quick oven.
LEMON CRACKERS
Two cups of sugar, one each of shortening and milk, two eggs, grated rind of three lemons, and two ounces of baking ammonia, with sufficient flour to make a very stiff dough. Roll thin, cut in squares, and bake.
LEMON SANDWICHES (Mrs. Rorer)
Cut bread in form desired, then place slices in tight box with lemon peel wrapped close to it and between slices. Leave for several hours before using then butter and serve. The butter should also have been prepared with lemon flavouring by placing lemon rinds generously in the butter jar or cup, and when ready to spread the juice of one lemon added for each cup of butter.
LEMON CATSUP
Mix one tablespoon grated horseradish with the grated rind of four lemons. Add one teaspoon of salt, the juice of the lemons, a dessertspoon each of white mustard seed and celery seed, a few blades of mace, four cloves, and a dash of red pepper. Boil thirty-five minutes, then bottle while hot. In five or six weeks this will be ready to serve with fish.
THE LEMON 199
MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE FOR FISH
With two tablespoons of butter cream in one-half tea- spoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of white pepper, and a tablespoon each of lemon juice and powdered parsley. Keep very cold till ready to serve with fish.
LEMON ICE
To one quart of water add one pint of sugar and boil five minutes. Remove from fire and add juice of three large lemons with one dessertspoon of gelatine dissolved in a little cold water. Stir well and, when cool, freeze.
LEMON SHERBET
To the syrup given above add juice of three lemons and one orange. The sugar used in the syrup should have been treated as for "Lemon Sugar for Flavouring" or flavoured with a little pure lemon oil. Place in freezer and when half- frozen add the whipped whites of two eggs, then finish freezing. The yolks of the eggs may be added with equally good flavour and make the sherbet more acceptable and nourishing for invalids.
FROZEN LEMON CUSTARD
Make simple custard (see Introductory Recipes for "Custard") or Lemon Custard, and let cool. Grate three lemons, using this or lemon tincture for flavouring. If the rind is used stir in with the milk before cooking the custard. If tincture is used add just before freezing. (The quantity will depend upon the quality and strength of the flavouring).
LEMON ICE CREAM
Mix the grated rind of two lemons and one orange with one quart of mixed milk and cream and partially freeze.
2oo FRUIT RECIPES
Have ready a syrup made of the juice of two large lemons and one orange and a pint of sugar. When cool add this to the partly frozen cream and finish freezing. (More sugar may be preferred.)
CANDIED LEMON PEEL See Orange Chips.
CHAPTER XV
THE WILD "SOUR," OR SEVILLE ORANGE
Citrus aurantium bigaradia: Rutacece
THERE is no edible fruit in America which both grows so abundantly (through the southern — the semi- tropical portion) and is at the same time so little known or understood and in consequence so little appreciated or considered adapted to practical usage as is the wild or sour (as it is known in the South), or the Seville orange, as it is properly termed. And this fact seems the more strange the further one looks into it, since Americans travel so extensively and this orange is so highly prized for nu- merous purposes throughout Europe and the British Isles (to say nothing of other countries and continents), whether there grown or merely imported. This may perhaps be explained by the fact that as a nation Americans are eaters and drinkers of sweet stuffs and that to be told a fruit is sour is to consider it uninviting and uninteresting even as to name: something to " forget." And so, when the use of the Seville orange is read of (with no special mention of its acidity) it is not connected with the "sour" orange; it is already truly forgotten with other disagreeable matters, and it is taken for granted that the Seville is some variety of the common, sweet orange. There is a "Sweet Seville," but it is never mentioned by those really familiar with oranges without the distinguishing adjective, for it is a mere namesake and all sweet oranges (unless we except the mandarin-tangerine group, whose history is rather indef- initely blurred in the hazy mass of ancient Japanese and
202 FRUIT RECIPES
Chinese pomology) are parvenues beside the sour or Seville orange. Even the Oriental varieties just mentioned and the sweet orange trees which for centuries have been found grow- ing on the Himalayas probably came from the sour stock origi- nally, so evidence and opinion seem to emphatically indicate.
The Moors took this orange to Spain. From just what particular spot they may first have imported it, it is difficult to say at this distance of time, but from that period (the be- ginning of the eighth century, A. D.) until into the fifteenth century, the sweet orange was not known or cultivated in Europe while the sour orange was greatly cultivated. The Greeks and Romans seem to have known nothing of any variety of orange and so, although biographical sketches of Adam, Eve, and the Grecian and Roman gods may by scoffers be classed irreverently as equally and only alle- gorical, one fact may be depended upon (!) that, as compared with their first parents, the Europeans were hopelessly matter-of-fact, since the apple of Paris was literally an apple, while botanists declare the forbidden fruit of the Garden to have been undoubtedly an orange or other mem- ber of the citrus family — whether true or typical. (The admirers of the chiramoya claim that fruit as Eden's temp- tation, but neither this fact nor those people who would decry the Seville as sufficient to drive anyone from Paradise need be considered.)
The imported Moorish orange was planted in great num- ber in and about the city of Seville, singly and in groves, and immediately so flourished and grew in favour that it became widely known as the " Seville" orange and by this name is still recognised throughout Europe where — in Italy and other countries, as well as Spain — it is a commercial crop of importance, whether exported in natural form or otherwise (the peel, dried or candied, or having undergone distillation for flavouring or medicinal purposes).
THE WILD "SOUR," OR SEVILLE ORANGE 203
It is now generally conceded that the Spaniards intro- duced their adopted fruit into Florida during their earliest explorations, although the seed and soil were so eminently adapted to each other and the fruit of their union was so prolific that "wild orange groves were soon to be found all over Florida and in consequence some authorities have declared it must be native to the Gulf regions. The Bitter- Sweet (C. aurantium vulgaris) is but a variety of the Seville, though Manville, in describing it as a "tree indistinguish- able from the sour," terms it the "Native wild orange of Florida." In flavour this variety is exactly what its name indicates, both bitter and sweet. Most of the wild orange groves have been killed in some one of the several descents to freezing temperature during the last century, or have been budded to sweet varieties, as the sour stock is gen- erally immune from foot-rot and has all over the world proven less susceptible to extreme cold or drought than the sweet stock.
The Aurantium bigaradia, as the Seville is scientifically termed, is smaller than the sweet orange tree, more gen- erally inclined to be spiny, and its leaves more truly ellip- tical, though both these points vary. The oil cysts are concave, the general texture of pulp and rind heavier and coarser, and the flavour quite distinct from the common sweet orange. The flowers are similar in form and fra- grance but susceptible of much variation by cultivation and Europeans are familiar with varieties of the bigaradia culti- vated exclusively for their floral beauty, as, the Nosegay Plant, or le bouquetier of the French, these blossoms grow- ing at the end of the branches in thick clusters. Other varieties are the double-flowered bigarade, the myrtle- flowered and the bizarre bigarades, the last of which has purplish-white flowers, and fruit which curiously varies in form and flavour. Throughout the semi-tropical
2o4 FRUIT RECIPES
portions of North America the original, simple form of the imported Seville orange trees, blossoming and fruiting, also offer abundance of beauty to the eye and nostril. But the average tourist fails to appreciate this ultimately because of lack of proper introduction, the taking for granted that this is the sweet orange of common popularity, and the. consequent shock on discovery of its peculiar acidity. This results in sudden coolness, the dropping of the slight ac- quaintance, and injury to the wild beauty's reputation and standing in society, whereas, were it but known that the Seville is the proud descendant of the ancient Spanish line and one of the few remaining tangible traces of the days of the gallant Spanish explorers, all this would be avoided. It is particularly a pity that the average Northerner misses so simple yet so great an intellectual and gastronomic en- joyment since the season of the Seville is longer than that of the usual sweet varieties, lasting well into the spring when sweet oranges are scarce and high in price. In time, however, the Seville will doubtless come into favour as has the grape-fruit (or pomelo), through similar experience, for it was but a few years ago that the pomelo was not appreciated; there was no demand for the few shipped north and the remainder, almost without exception, lay upon the ground until decayed because even in the South it was supposed that, although exceptional, depraved palates might be educated to the point of imaginary en- joyment, the pomelo could not be fit for cookery in any form and even uncooked, separated from all " rag "and served with sugar, the result was extremely doubtful.
From the fruit of the Seville much of the citric acid of commerce was manufactured until quite recent times. From its flowers most of the Oil of Neroli (one of the bases of eau de cologne and liqueurs) is made, although the sweet orange flowers are also used to a limited extent, and the
THE WILD "SOUR," OR SEVILLE ORANGE 205
oil of bitter oranges is distilled from it. The smallest green oranges, sour or sweet, are usually saved in Europe as they drop, and are dried to be sold as "orange berries" for various uses, or to be made into Cura^oa. The peel is dried for medicinal purposes, the resultants being employed in stomachics and general tonics. The flowers, also, are dried and preserved in Europe, being considered a gentle nerve stimulant when infused in boiling water (two drachms to a pint) and a cupful of it taken once in a while throughout the day. One of the chief uses of both flowers and peel is to disguise or flavour other less-pleasing medicinal prep- arations. It is never recommended that the peel of orange be eaten in its natural form ; too much of rind (the Seville's particularly) would be apt to affect one unpleasantly from the strength of its oil. The sour oranges themselves are shipped in great quantity for making up into the famous bitter Scotch Marmalade so much in evidence at British breakfasts, where its tonic qualities are considered to en- tirely offset any possibility of too much "sweet." Orange- leaf tea (from sweet, sour, or bitter-sweet trees) is much used all over the southern countries as a preventive or cure of fevers, even during scourges of "Yellow Jack." As a foundation or component of cooling summer drinks nothing is more delicious than the aromatic, acid juice of the Seville and it is vastly superior to lemons for " Russian tea." Even the lime cannot outclass it for flavour and it has almost equal power with the lemon in killing typhoid germs.
For the table it may be halved as is the grape-fruit, cutting out the centre and dropping therein sugar, letting stand a few hours, but this should be only at its very ripest stage. It is an excellent substitute for vinegar or lemon juice with salads and a general rule may be laid down that the Seville may be used in any way that the lemon, lime, and sweet orange are employed, allowing for
2o6 FRUIT RECIPES
varying degrees of acidity. Several individual and dis- tinctive methods of usage are the following:
RECIPES
SCOTCH ORANGE MARMALADE No. i
The juice and grated rind of one lemon must be used to every four pounds of oranges and the juice of two sweet oranges to every pound of bitter or Seville oranges. Pare the fruit as thin as possible and cut the peel into very small strips. Then quarter the oranges, removing seeds, and place in the preserving kettle with only sufficient water to cover them. Squeeze with the hand until the heat is too great, then press with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve. Add the chipped rind and a pound of sugar to each pint of juice.
SCOTCH ORANGE MARMALADE No. 2
To two pints of chopped Seville oranges (pulp, rind, and juice) , add two pounds of yellow honey and cook down to proper consistency.
WILD ORANGE MARMALADE (Florida Recipe No. 1)
Peel and cut up the oranges and place in fresh water for twenty-four hours, then in salt water for the same time and again in fresh water, changing the water several times during the last twenty-four hours to remove all trace of the bitter tone. (If the bitterness is liked soak only as long as de- sired.) Use equal weight of sugar and fruit with only sufficient water to keep from burning when placed on the fire. Cook until rind is soft before adding sugar, then cook down as desired and place in heated jars. Seal.
WILD ORANGE MARMALADE (Florida Recipe No. 2)
Wash and quarter the oranges, then pull off the peel and soak the latter in brine over night. In the morning place in
THE WILD "SOUR," OR SEVILLE ORANGE 207
fresh water and bring to a boil, pouring off the water and replacing with fresh if still too salt or bitter. • Remove white pulp with a spoon, shred fine or chop the yellow shells re- maining and cook in preserving kettle. In separate vessels have the pulp and juice cooking. When peel is tender cook the two portions in one kettle and when perfectly trans- lucent add sugar, pound for pound. A few moments only will be necessary to cook to proper consistency after this preparation. Sweet and sour oranges may be used half and half.
ORANGE AND LEMON MARMALADE
Take equal parts lemon and Seville and sweet oranges, proceeding as for Florida Recipe No. 2 with the exception that the water will not have to be replaced after bringing to a boil and pouring off the first time.
PRESERVED SEVILLE ORANGE
Peel the yellow rind from the fruit then halve crosswise and seed. Sprinkle the halves thickly with salt and boil fruit in soda water for at least fifteen minutes (a heaping teaspoon of soda to each quart of water). Drain and pour over the oranges fresh hot water and repeat. If the rind is not soft boil it until it is. Make a syrup of a pint of water to a pound of sugar (a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit) and when thickening well add the fruit, cooking it till translucent. Remove oranges, place in hot jars, and when syrup has cooked down till quite thick pour over the fruit while the syrup is at boiling point, filling jars pretty full. Seal well.
SEVILLE ORANGE JELLY
Make as for Scotch Orange Marmalade No. 1, omitting the chipped rind. Boil the juice with the rind of two sweet oranges and two lemons, removing them when the juice
2o8 FRUIT RECIPES
has cooked down rather thick, then strain and add sugar as directed.
SEVILLE ORANGE WINE
For each gallon of juice add two gallons of water, and three pounds of sugar to each gallon of the resulting liquid. Let this ferment, covering bung-hole with thin cotton cloth only. Fermentation will cease in two months or less, when rack off into another receptacle (preferably a good barrel each time), stop the bung and keep in a cool place.
ORANGE BRANDY
Place the thin-peeled rind of eight oranges with three- fourths pint of juice in stone receptacle and pour over this a half-gallon of best French brandy. Add after four days a pound and a quarter of sugar and stir up well. Let stand again, for twenty-four hours, when strain and cork. May be used in five weeks.
DOMESTIC CURACOA No. i
Prepare ten oranges as above but do not add juice. The dried rind will answer if the fresh is not convenient. Cover for four days with a gallon of brandy, then strain, add three pounds of sugar, and proceed as above.
DOMESTIC CURACOA No. 2
Take the rind of twelve oranges and pour over them a gallon of pure whisky. Proceed as above, adding a quarter to a half-pound more sugar.
PRESERVED ORANGE FLOWERS No. i
Place alternate layers of orange flowers and salt in jars and screw on the covers well. There should be at least one-third the weight of the flowers in salt.
THE WILD "SOUR," OR SEVILLE ORANGE 209
PRESERVED ORANGE FLOWERS No. 2
Pack the full-blown flowers in a jar, close, but not to crush them, and when full within a half-inch of the top pour over them glycerine which has no odour (but not necessarily chemically pure). This is according to Mr. C. R. Tich- borne's successful experiments. (U. S. Dispensatory).
ORANGE FLOWERS CANDIED
The flowers may be placed at once in boiling water or, as sometimes preferred, soaked in cold water for twenty- four hours, this poured off and fresh, boiling water sub- stituted. Let the flowers boil a few minutes, then remove carefully and lightly pour over them cold water. Drain and place on cotton or linen cloth, sprinkling over them twice their weight of powdered sugar. Spread then on platters and let stand in a shady place for ten days or less that the sugar may be thoroughly absorbed, when place in sun or cool oven or dryer to dry. Pack away with layers of powdered sugar.
ORANGE FLOWERS PRESERVED IN SYRUP
Catch the blossoms on sheeting and pour over them boil- ing syrup of rather light consistency. Let stand over night and next morning bring to a boil, then let stand again twelve hours. Repeat, then place in jars while hot and seal tight.
Or the flowers may be placed at once in a thick bag, as for jelly, the syrup poured in with them, and let drip twenty- four hours, repeating twice. The flowers may be used separately for flavouring butter or sauces or as above until the syrup is needed for flavouring, when they may be strained out and used. The syrup is most delicate for flavouring hot or cold drinks, desserts, cakes, or puddings.
2io FRUIT RECIPES
ORANGE FLOWER ICING
Prepare flowers as above, boiling in with the syrup until the syrup is ready to slightly harden in cold water. Then whip in with the stiff-beaten white of an egg and spread on cake or cookies.
ORANGE FLOWER WATER
"Take of Orange Flowers, forty-eight troy ounces; water, sixteen pints. Mix them and distil eight pints." — U. S. Dispensatory.
ORANGE FLOWER ICES
The simple ice, sherbet, cream, or custard may be made by using the Introductory Recipes for ices and flavouring with the syrup of Preserved Orange Flowers, or the recipe for Orange Ice under the Sweet Orange may be used, as liked, flavoured with Orange Flower Syrup, or Orange Flower Water.
CHAPTER XVI
THE ORANGE (C aurantium dulcis and C. aurantium
nobilis)
OF all the members of the citrus family the common, sweet orange (C. aurantium dulcis) is undoubt- edly the most attractive, with its peculiarly delicious flavour and combination, with this, of pleasing form and colour. But, although its abundance and general low price still further bars the way against any citric rival, it should be more indulged in than it is since its season is at its height when North- ern fruits are not bearing, yet when from climatic conditions the blood is sluggish and requires the free use of mild fruit acid, and since, while not so powerful in direct effect as the lemon, lime, or pomelo, it shares all their best qualities and is, like them, anti-scorbutic and tonic. Eaten uncooked the orange is most enjoyable and usually gives the best and most direct results but one may also prepare and serve it in many ways cooked by which its health- giving properties may be secured in varying degree.
The C. aurantium nobilis, including the varying forms of mandarin and tangerine, is seldom used in cookery simply because it is usually more expensive and also is so extremely attractive as a table fruit in its natural form, convenient and dainty, with the fragrance of rich spiciness betraying oriental origin. But the mandarin or tangerine may be used as is the common sweet orange and give greater variety by the inclusion of its peculiarity of tone.
Both of these types of orange have been generally treated
2i2 FRUIT RECIPES
under the wild orange in the preceding chapter and some of the recipes given there may be adapted to these sweeter varieties.
RECIPES
SHERRIED TANGERINE
Cut a slice from across the tops of the tangerines and remove the pulp with a spoon. From these pieces take all the coarse fibre, then mix the pulp with sugar and flavour with sherry. Return the mixture to the shells, chill, and serve.
ORANGES WITH COCOANUT
Here is a pretty way to van- the usual serving of "Am- brosia," as the sliced, cocoanut-sprinkled orange is often termed: Halve the unpeeled fruit, then with a small, sharp knife remove the pulp from the skins. Place the pulp in a bowl and mix with fresh cocoanut if possible to secure it (though the desiccated form, soaked a few moments in milk may serve the purpose), and sugar, with a dash of lemon juice. Replace in the shells and serve each half on a small fruit plate garnished with some form of dainty leaves.
ORANGE SALADS
For any of the following forms of salad peel the fruit to the juice-pulp, cutting out core and heavy "rag. " With quite tart fruit serve the oranges sliced on lettuce, tender cabbage leaves or sorrel, with a simple French dressing, using wild orange juice instead of vinegar (three table- spoons of oil to one of acid). Season with salt and paprika or tabasco.
This dressing may be omitted and the salad varied by substituting sherry with a little paprika as a finish.
Other forms of salad £iay be prepared by mixing the
THE ORANGE 213
orange with chopped celery-stalks, apples and nuts, one or all, or with banana alone (sliced) and serving with mayonnaise. (See Introductory Recipes.)
ORANGE OMELET
Peel three oranges down to the juice-pulp, then slice in lengthwise strips until the heavier "rag" around the core is reached. Set these slices aside. Make a plain omelet with three eggs, beating whites and yolks separately. Add to the yolks one-half cup of orange juice and the grated rind of one orange, a saltspoon of salt and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Beat this in with the stiff- whipped whites and place in hot buttered omelet pan. When the omelet is set and browning, place the sliced orange on top, fold over, and serve at once.
ORANGE FLOWER SOUFFLE
Break in bits in a bowl six macaroons (well flavoured with almonds) and mix them with a handful of orange blossoms or buds, pounding them well together. Orange flower water may be substituted (a large wineglassful). Also stir in six ounces of powdered sugar. Beat separately now the whites and yolks of six eggs. Add the smooth yolks to the other ingredients and last stir in lightly the stiff whites. Have four ounces of butter heating in the omelet pan and when beginning to turn brown pour in on it the " batter." When it begins to colour transfer it to the souffl6 dish (buttered) ; place in hot oven and bake about ten minutes; till slightly browned and puffed quite high. On it sift powdered sugar and serve at once.
ORANGES AND RICE
This may be prepared and served in two different ways: as a breakfast dish or a dessert. If for the former, cook
2i4 FRUIT RECIPES
plain boiled rice, using half milk and half water, and add- ing one-half cup of sugar. Serve with thin-sliced oranges. As a compote, for dessert, pare the orange to the fruit- pulp, then halve (across) and cut out the core of each. Have ready a syrup of sugar and water with a little lemon juice added, and in this cook the oranges until tender and clear, but not until they come to pieces. Place them around a mound of plain boiled rice and pour the syrup over the fruit and rice. Serve with cream, whipped or plain, or a sweet custard sauce.
ORANGE FRITTERS
Make a simple batter (See Introductory Recipes) and in this dip slices or sections of orange from which all peeling, and core have been removed. Fry at once in hot fat in a proper frying kettle and when brown drain, dust with powdered sugar, and serve.
ORANGE SHORTCAKE
Make a sweet shortcake (see Introductory Recipes)
and after baking, butter it, then pour over it thin-sliced
oranges well sweetened. Serve with cream, whipped or
plain.
ORANGE SUET PUDDING
To two cupsful of stale bread add one pint sweet milk, one cup fine-chopped suet, three-fourths cup of sugar, two well-beaten eggs, a saltspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon baking powder, the juice of one orange and grated rind of two. Stir together and set aside for twenty minutes in a covered bowl, then bake in buttered pudding-dish (tying cloth over top), for three-quarters of an hour. This may, instead, be boiled, in one mould or in individual, small ones, tying the cloth over tops securely and boiling — for the large mould, one hour; for the smaller one, forty minutes.
THE ORANGE 219
cocoanut or angelica, mixing as one pleases, and serve with a spoonful of whipped cream on top of a spoonful of the sherbet in tall slim glasses.
ORANGE MARMALADE ICE
Thin a pint of marmalade with a cup of boiling water and add one tablespoon of sugar. Strain or leave the bits of fruit as they are, cool, and freeze.
FROZEN ORANGES
Pare oranges to the juice-pulp ; halve, core, seed, and slice. To each quart of fruit add one cup of sugar and freeze.
ORANGE ICE CREAM
For each quart of new milk and cream (equal parts) grate or cut fine the rinds of three oranges, simmering them in a pint of water till reduced to one-half pint, then strain. When cool add to the milk and cream. Use one heaping cup of sugar to each quart of liquid. If preferred, make the custard given in Introductory Recipes, adding to it the grated rind of three oranges for each quart of custard. A half-tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and added just before freezing gives the effect of a mousse.
ORANGE CHIPS (A Confection)
Peel the yellow rind of oranges in long, thin "chips" — and for each pound of chips weigh and set aside a pound of sugar. Squeeze and strain the juice from the fruit ; place the sugar with it and let it stand over night. Have the peel soaking in a separate vessel of fresh water for the same length of time. In the morning bring the peel to a boil in the water in which it has soaked and let simmer till very tender. Meantime cook the sugar and juice
220 FRUIT RECIPES
together into a syrup. When the peel is ready drain it and place in the syrup, boiling gently until the syrup thickens and becomes hard (like candy) when dropped into cold water. At this stage lift the chips singly and carefully from the syrup, placing them on oiled paper on trays, to drain and dry, setting trays in the sun. In twenty-four hours remove the strips to fresh paper but leave trays in the sun until all moisture has evaporated from the peel. This may take weeks. A fruit-dryer will facilitate matters if a slow, gentle heat is used. The process will be shorter for mandarin and tangerine peel.
SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE No. i
Wash the fruit and with a knife point cut the rind through to the pulp lengthwise and around (in the middle) so that the rind may readily be taken off either in halves or quarters. Put this rind (including yellow and white) on the stove in a vessel of cold water and let come to a boil, continuing till the rind is thoroughly tender. Cut then into fine strips. Meantime have the pulp prepared by halv- ing, seeding, and removing the heaviest rag at the core, only then slicing it. Put to boil in separate saucepan and cook till tender, then set back till rind is soft and clear. At this stage add the pulp to the rind, measuring, and stirring in equal measure of heated sugar. It will take but about twenty minutes to cook down sufficiently thick after this; then seal.
SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE No. 2
Cook the juice of twenty oranges till it is transparent, then add five pounds of sugar and the grated or very fine minced rind of the oranges. Boil until translucent and very thick, then seal.
Either formula for the marmalade admits of variation
THE ORANGE 221
by the addition of other fruit. When thick and still hot apple, pear, pieplant, or fig marmalade or the stewed citron- melon may be added in equal quantity, the two cooked down together and put up as usual.
SWEET ORANGE PRESERVES
Preserves are sometimes made of the halved fruit, with the rind. In this case the oranges should be halved and cored sufficiently to remove seeds and the heaviest rag. It is sometimes considered necessary to let the fruit remain in weak brine over night, in the morning draining, placing in fresh water, bringing to a boil and repeating the process. At other times the prepared fruit is at once put on in fresh water and boiled till tender, replacing the water once. When translucent add equal quantity of hot sugar and cook till sufficiently thick. Still another form is to re- move entirely the yellow rind, cooking the halved or quartered fruit till tender, then adding sugar; or to prepare as a compote, placing the prepared fruit in hot syrup and cooking down till ready to seal.
Orange Preserves may be varied as is the marmalade or by the addition of other citrus fruits, or barberry or cranberry syrup.
ORANGE JELLY
To five ripe sweet oranges add one tangerine or mandarin, with rind and pulp of seventh orange. Slice fruit whole, removing seeds as far as possible. Add one-half pint cold water and cook until juice and water have simmered down to one scant half-pint, when strain. Heat again and when boiling add heaping half-pint of sugar to each scant half- pint of juice.
222 FRUIT RECIPES
ORANGE SYRUP
To each pint of sweet, strained, orange juice add one pound of sugar and a little of the grated peel. The peel and juice of one lemon may also be added if desired, to give piquancy. Boil for fifteen minutes, skimming care- fully as scum rises, and straining when ready to remove. Bottle and seal tight. This will keep a long time and is excellent for use in sweet sauces or cold drinks.
CREAM OF ORANGE (Old Recipe)
Chop fine two dozen oranges, peel and all, then add three quarts spirits of wine; one-fourth ounce tincture of saffron, one gill orange-flower-water and six pounds of loaf sugar. Let stand one month, when filter and bottle.
ORANGEADE
For this and other beverages of orange juice see " Lemon- ade/
SWEET ORANGE WINE
Methods vary in making orange wine, some wines being made with equal parts of orange juice and water and some with the orange juice alone. In either case three pounds of sugar should be used to each gallon of the liquid. Let ferment in a barrel, covering the bung with cloth. When fermentation ceases (from six to eight weeks) rack off into another barrel, stop bung, and keep in a cool place.
ORANGE VINEGAR
To orange pulp and juice add water and Florida syrup. "Mother" will form in a few weeks and strong vinegar result. (Cover the jar with thin cloth, only, while vinegar is in the making.)
CHAPTER XVII
THE CITRON, BERGAMOT, LIMEBERRY, KUMQUAT, AND TRIFOLIATA
THE Citron (C. medico) is the heavy-weight of the whole Citrus family, although some varieties are no larger than certain Shaddocks or Pomelos. Readers of recipes sometimes confuse this, the true Citron, with the Citron Melon (Pie Melon) which is frequently carelessly mentioned as "the Citron" without the word " melon" attached, but it bears not only no relation but merely the slightest, most superficial resemblance. It is edible (the true Citron) only when cooked — preserved in some form — but it then has very great food value. It contains more protein than most fruits, fresh or dried, and also riches of carbohydrates and energy.
It is usually candied, or preserved in syrup in bulk (halves or quarters) and used, chopped, in cakes or puddings, but may be varied by combination of the preserve or by the use of the syrup for various purposes.
RECIPES
TO DRY WITH SUGAR
Citron is useless in its natural state. For keeping for home use or market it must be dried and this should be done just before the fruit reaches maturity: while still green yet well filled out. Quarter it and place in fresh water a day and a night. Drain and replace water several times, then boil for forty minutes with a little alum and
223
224 FRUIT RECIPES
handful of citron leaves. Drain from this and boil in a mild syrup forty minutes longer. At the end of this time add sugar, pound for pound (with weight of citron itself). Let this boil five or six minutes, then remove fruit and cook syrup till thicker. Dip the fruit in it again and boil as before, and once more repeat the process before placing the citron in the sun to dry. Fill the hollow sides with sugar and let fruit remain in the hottest sunshine for as many days as required to dry thoroughly, rilling the hollows every few days with sugar.
COMMERCIAL CANDIED CITRON (Helen Harcourt)
Cut the fruit into halves or quarters (according to size) , then pack it in cask or tub of brine, having first cleaned out the pulp, and leave it for a month; then renew the salt water and let the citron lie in it for four or five months, or as much longer as you choose ; this long process is necessary to eliminate the bitter principle from the rind, which otherwise it is not possible to eliminate entirely. Next boil the fruit in fresh water until a fork will easily pass through it; it usually takes an hour and a half to reach this point. Then put it in cold, fresh water, to remain there for at least twenty-four hours, when it will have turned to that light green colour which we have learned to associate with candied citron. The next step is to drain the fruit, place it in earthen jars, and pour over it hot syrup of white sugar at 20° sacchrometer ; cover it entirely and let it stand for three weeks, but the syrup must be poured off twice a week, boiled, skimmed, and more sugar added each time until the syrup is a little thicker than it was at first boiling; turn it back over the fruit at boiling point. The three weeks elapsed, put the citron in a vessel containing the syrup, with all the sugar it can dissolve; let it boil for ten minutes; and then for twenty-four hours keep
CITRON, ETC. 225
it near the boiling point without letting it reach it, then boil again until no more sugar can be taken up. The propor- tion of sugar taken up is about eighty pounds to one hundred of the citron rinds. The boiling completed, the rinds are spread on wire netting and dried, either in the sun, or, which is a far superior method, in an evaporator.
CITRON IN BRINE
The fruit may be kept in a strong brine as above, In- definitely, until ready to use it as a table preserve or for candying.
CITRON PRESERVE
Cut the citron in thin slices and soak in a weak brine over night, then place on the stove in fresh water and let come to a boil. Pour off this water and replace with fresh, repeating if necessary (though it may not be). Have ready a syrup (as for ices in Introductory Recipes) and place in this (at boiling point) the sliced fruit, cooking about three-quarters of an hour. Adding more sugar for a heavier syrup or cooking longer must depend upon one's individual taste. Lemon or orange marmalade or other citrus fruit or juice may be added if to be put up for future use. The citron may be preserved in larger pieces by lengthening this process.
CITRON SYRUP AND ICE
The syrup in which citron has been preserved makes variety in flavouring sauces. for puddings or the puddings themselves. It may be substituted for orange in gelatine and for ices, although it is best to use also a little lime or lemon juice to bring out the citron flavour. When citron preserves have been made — shaved fine — the fruit may be used at once for cake or pudding, and the syrup pre- served alone.
226 F&UIT RECIPES
The true Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) is often confounded with the Limeberry, also spoken of as Bergamot, but in reality the Triphasia trifoliata. The true Bergamot is " pear-shaped; pale yellow, with green, subacid, firm, fragrant pulp, fruit and foliage distinct." The famous oil known by the name of bergamot %is dis- tilled from its rind, and formerly citric acid was also ob- tained from it.
The Triphasia trifoliata, or Limeberry (distinct also from the Citrus or Limonium trifoliata) is a gooseberry- like, deep-red or wine-coloured little fruit about a half- inch in diameter. This and the true Bergamot may be preserved and treated in general like the orange, with adaptations. Both are of the Rutacece.
The Kumquat (C. Japonica) has greatly come into favour in America the past few years, but its comparative scarcity and high price have militated ^gainst an intimate acquaintance with its peculiar fascination with the general public. Kumquat is a Chinese word of poetical significance; meaning Gold Orange, ihe Japan- ese equivalent is Kin Kan. Its combination of Oriental spiciness of flavour and fragrance is unique in charm, this, whether eaten uncooked or prepared otherwise. The thin skin and suggestion of tartness make it a candidate for honours in fruit salads in its natural form.
THE KUMQUAT AU NATUREL
The kumquat is an exceedingly pretty adjunct to fancy dishes of various descriptions or cold drinks. For these purposes it may be served whole or halved or quartered, or, for table decorations, with the leaves not removed. The kumquat may t^ sliced thin and served in dishes with whipped cream or a meringue, or in tall slim glasses with sugar and shaved ice. To add wine to this fruit is rather
CITRON, ETC. 227
an insult. For a salad few fruits give greater piquancy than shaved or quartered kumquats as an accessory, or they may form the body of the salad, with a slight addition of celery, banana, pineapple, cherry, pear, or orange, etc., and nuts if one chooses. As a garnish, also, the kumquat *is picturesque.
KUMQUAT PRESERVES
Make a heavy syrup of four pints of sugar to one pint of
water. When thick and boiling drop into it the kumquats
(whole or halved) and boil an hour and a half. (Simmering
jvill toughen the rinds.) Seal at once on removing from
fire or, for immediate use, when cool, serve with cream.
KUMQUAT JELLY
In proportion to one dozen kumquats, cut in small pieces, use one half -pint cold water. Simmer down to one- fourth pint of juice then strain. Re-heat and add a very scant half pint of sugar. (See also other citrus jellies.)
KUMQUAT JAM OR MARMALADE
The fruit left from jelly may be used, adding no water, and sugar, pound for pound, with a little lemon juice, or the fresh, sliced kumquats, may bemused, cooked till ten- der, then sugar added, retaining or not the juice, as liked. The fruit may be put through a colander or left in the original slices. Cook down to consistency liked.
CANDIED KUMQUAT
The fruit may be left whole, halved, or quartered, the form deciding the time of cooking. The kumquats may be candied as for cherries, or first cooked till tender, then placed in a thick, boiling syrup, for fifteen minutes, placed in the sun to dry, and the process continued till
228 FRUIT RECIPES
sufficiently candied, when sugar may be sprinkled over them before packing away, though this may be omitted.
FROZEN KUMQUATS
Make a syrup as for ices (see Introductory Recipes) and add to it the sliced kumquats in proportion according to taste. Let stand till cool, when freeze. Orange, lemon, or lime juice may be added.
The preserve may be frozen, diluted but slightly as it comes from the jar, or an ice or ice cream or custard made with kumquat syrup.
KUMQUAT GELATINE
Make as for lemon gelatine, using orange or lime juice mixed, or kumquat syrup with a little lemon, adding the sliced fruit.
CHAPTER XVIII
THE POMELO (OR "GRAPE-FRUIT"), LIME
Tangelo and Citrange
IT is not strange that so many human beings con- sider the pomelo the acme of fruit perfection, or that many who at first disliked and merely ate it to follow 4 'fashion" should in time have become extremely fond of it. Years before it had obtained proper recognition among Americans or before its near relation to the so- called "Forbidden Fruit" was generally known in this country it was declared by fruit growers who appreciated it that the pomelo must have been that jewel of the first garden through which the wise serpent tempted Eve and Adam.
The Spaniards introduced the pomelo, like the Seville orange and the lime, into Florida and, though full recog- nition of its value came late, it has attained remarkable development commercially and horticultural! y and now, though for years unsalable in the North, it is the favourite though the highest-priced of breakfast fruits.
The species Decumana, of the citrus family, includes both the shaddock and the pomelo, the latter — pomelanus — having been nicknamed "Grape-Fruit" because of the clustering, grape-like groups in which it grows, but the two fruits, while of the same species, are yet distinct as to horticultural race.
The name "pomelo" seems to have come direct from the Dutch " pompelrnoes," and that of "shaddock" was taken from Capt. Shaddock, its godfather, the old sea-captain
229
23o FRUIT RECIPES
who is said to have first conveyed it into the West Indies. Under the shaddock comes that variety so long known in Europe as the "Forbidden Fruit."
The world in general has had a mistaken fashion of eat- ing the pomelo before it is mature and thus many times has misjudged its flavour. Most varieties do not really ripen and attain full richness and sweetness until March at the earliest and from then on, through May and into June, are at their best.
While the grape-fruit and lime do not contain so great a percentage of citric acid as does the lemon, yet both have goodly share and like all juicy citrus fruits are antiscorbutic, while in the pomelo there is in addition, though in lesser degree, the same bitter tonic quality possessed by cinchona. The grape-fruit should oftener be eaten in its natural state without wine or sugar, either or both of which, though making it very delicious, perhaps detract from the fullest value of the pomelo.
The lime (C. hystrix acida) elicits almost equally great praise from other humans, the acid varieties as the basis of cooling, wholesome drinks, and the "Sweet Lime" the ''Lima dulcis" of Mexico, in some of the more southern of American countries, as a rival of the sweet orange.
The tangelo, a cross between the tangerine and pomelo, is the name by which a new group of citrus fruits is called, a group which so far includes but the Nocatee and the Sampson tangelo. Its skin is rather thin and readily removed; its flavour lacking the extreme bitterness, acidity, and sweetness of its parents, yet pronounced in individual flavour. With many people it will take the place of the pomelo as a favourite breakfast fruit, partly because of its more convenient size.
The citrange is still a newer member of the citrus family and also a hybrid, this one the result of the crossing of
OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 231
the common orange with the trifoliate orange, the two varieties thus far in existence (the Rusk and the Willits) being " reciprocal hybrids." The Willits citrange is more tart, more nearly resembles the lemon than does the Rusk, but both varieties are excellent as citrangeade and for general purposes of cookery may be treated as are the orange, lemon and grape-fruit, with the necessary adapta- tions.
The trifoliate orange (C. trifoliata) is the hardy, dwarf, Japanese stock formerly so much used for budding on to. It is thorny and bears a small yellow fruit not over two inches in diameter which is ornamental and aromatic but useless, with its bitter, "gummy" pulp, thick rind and many seeds, for eating.
RECIPES
GRAPE FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST
At night halve the fruit across, then with thin, sharp knife remove upper part of core and seeds. In the hollow thus made place a tablespoonful of sugar and set in cool spot till morning. Serve without further preparation, but with sharp-pointed spoons.
GRAPE FRUIT FOR LUNCHEON
Prepare in same manner as for "Breakfast," letting stand but six hours, however, and on ice, and adding tablespoonful of sherry to the sugar in each half of the pomelo. Or the pulp may be entirely removed from the shell and skin and served in the clean shells with just a little sugar, or in sherbet glasses or in individual glass dishes set in outer cups or bowls containing shaved ice. If served on the dishes the sections may be left whole ; if in glasses the pulp shredded. There are many ways of
232 FRUIT RECIPES
varying this. Another method more suitable for a dessert or other than introductory course is the following:
PINK POMELO PYRAMID
Shred from the pulp every vestige of white rag and break sections into bits not over half an inch in length. Serve in tall slim glasses with a meringue of stiff-whipped white of egg and sugar and bits of angelica. A little shaved ice may be placed with the fruit. The combination of pink, white, yellow, and pale green gives a pretty effect. Where the pink pomelos or shaddocks cannot be secured a few drops of cochineal may be added to the fruit and sugar and let stand an hour or more, or the cochineal may be used merely on the bits of ice, or in the meringue.
POMELO WITH GRAPES
A pretty addition is made by filling the core-hollow first with a little sugar and sherry, then with white grapes (halved and seeded), or candied cherries, angelica (cut fine), and shredded pineapple. Where these fruits are combined the colour effect is charming: the red of the cherries; the green of the angelica, with the white and yellow.
GRAPE FRUIT AND CLAMS
Place four or five Little-Neck clams in the core-hollow, pouring over them a sauce made of horseradish, tomato catsup, salt, and a dash of tabasco, blended to taste.
GRAPE FRUIT COCKTAIL
To four tablespoons of grape-fruit juice add one table- spoon each of simple sugar-syrup, brandy, and maraschino, Pour these on to a glassful of shaved ice and when well mixed place in the glass from which the cocktail is to be
OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 233
served, adding to it a third of a section of fruit pulp from which every suspicion of white fibre has been removed.
GRAPE FRUIT SALADS
Pomelo may be served in several forms of salad, but in all cases the pulp must be perfectly shredded from the white "rag," as the slightest particle will give a bitter taste. Serve the fruit on young, crisp lettuce or tender cabbage- heart with French dressing or mayonnaise. Chopped celery or nuts (chopped, whole or halved, depending upon the kind of nut) or some other fruit, as cherries or currants, make toothsome additions. A little sugar may be sprinkled over the fruit before adding dressing.
GRAPE FRUIT MARMALADE No. 1
Remove the yellow rind with a sharp knife; place in
brine and boil till soft and translucent. Then drain and
soak in fresh, cold water for two hours, after which scrape
off part of the white pulp and cut in thin slices. Meantime
have the white rag and seeds removed from the fruit-pulp
and place latter with juice in a separate vessel. When
the rind is sufficiently freshened add to it the pulp, with
equal proportion of sugar, and boil thirty minutes or until
it jells.
GRAPE FRUIT MARMALADE No. 2
Peel off the yellow rind and chop or cut in fruit-chopper. Bring to a boil in rather strong brine, then drain and boil in fresh water. Should this not be sufficient to remove bitter taste repeat the process. Meantime pare off the heaviest white tissue remaining and cut fruit in half. Remove cores, then slice lengthwise and place in granite vesssel, bringing to a boil. When the rind is ready add the fruit to it and cook until rind is translucent and soft. Then add pound for pound of sugar and cook until thick.
234 FRUIT RECIPES
GENERAL REMARKS ON POMELO MARMALADE
Many people soak the rind in salt and water over night or longer before bringing to a boil but it seems proven by experience to be unnecessary trouble. On the other hand some housekeepers do not soak the rind at all but prefer to have the whole fruit sliced across, rind and all, removing only seeds, and then cooking till tender, changing the water perhaps once. By the latter method a trace of the bitter principle remains, as with the Seville orange peel, when it is preferred.
GRAPE FRUIT JELLY
Proceed as for marmalade until fruit is soft and trans- lucent, then strain off the juice; heat it again to boiling point; boil down for five minutes or until thick, then add hot sugar, a pint and a half to each pint of juice. This should jell within ten minutes.
GRAPE FRUIT JELLY No. 2
Soak rind over night in brine. In morning place in fresh water, replacing until all bitterness is removed. Slice the fruit-pulp, after cutting off with sharp knife the white tissue, and place with rind in jelly kettle. In proportion to one grape-fruit use one quart of cold water and cook down to one-third pint of juice. Strain and add sugar in proportion of a little more than measure for measure.
GRAPE FRUIT DROPS (A Confection)
Make as for Jelly No. 2, using fruit not yet matured and when strained adding to the juice twice as much sugar. Stir until it begins to grain, when drop on sheets of buttered paper. This may be kept in jars for flavouring or for grape-fruitade.
OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 235
GRAPE FRUIT PRESERVE
Remove outer, yellow rind and most of the white by peeling very thick. Halve the fruit and with sharp knife core and seed it. Then slice across and place pulp in granite vessel with very little water and cook at moderately quick heat. When at boiling point add three-fourths pint of sugar to each pint of fruit pulp and juice, then cook slowly fifteen minutes. This may be used at the moment as a luncheon or supper dish or sealed in jars.
GRAPE FRUIT ICE
Make the same as lemon or orange-ice; a rather strong, sweet, ' * grape-f ruitade ' ' with the pomelos alone or adding to each quart the juice of one lemon or two oranges (or both).
GRAPE FRUIT SHERBET
Take the juice of six pomelos, four cups of sugar, and a pint of water. Soak a tablespoon of gelatine in part of the water until dissolved, then bring to a boil with the water and fruit juice. When cool, freeze partially; add whipped whites of two eggs and finish freezing.
FROZEN POMELO
Make as for Frozen Oranges, using more sugar and some orange juice.
GRAPE FRUIT WINE
Make as for Seville Orange Wine.
POMELO SYRUP
This may be made from the pulp of the fruit alone or with the rind, using about one quart of water to each quart of sliced fruit (rind and all). If the rind is used the syrup
236 FRUIT RECIPES
will be bitter but will thus contain more of the tonic quality. The fruit must be simmered and strained, after adding sugar (about one pint to each quart of liquid). This may be used with shaved ice for summer drinks or with gelatine, etc.
POMELO AND LIMEADE
Use these fruit juices separately or in combination, add- ing carbonated water and sugar as liked.
POMELO RINDS IN BRINE FOR PRESERVING
Always keep these for future use. Place in brine as for lemon rinds. See the Lemon.
POMELO STRIPS CANDIED
The rind of the pomelo has a most attractive and dis- tinctive flavour when candied. First cut and place in salt and fresh water till sufficient of the bitterness is with- drawn (not all of it) , then proceed as for Orange Chips.
THE LIME
LIME JUICE FRESH AND IN SYRUP
Fresh lime juice with water alone is preferred by manv people to that of any other citrus fruit. It is thirst- quenching and a mild tonic. When a dash of calisaya is added the tonic effect is of course more pronounced. Lime juice may be added to lemonade or orangeade with a most pleasant aromatic effect (see the Lemon). To preserve the juice of fresh limes unsweetened, care must be used. Squeeze the limes and heat the juice to 1500 P.; neither below this nor above 1600, or the flavour will be ruined. Filter while hot through some standard filtering medium and it should keep in good condition a year. The juice may also be preserved with sugar as for lemon and orange syrups.
OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 237
LIME ICE AND SHERBET
Make as for lemon and orange, being careful to sweeten sufficiently.
LIME ZEST FOR TEA
Lump sugar rubbed on limes until the oil cells are broken gives a dainty flavour to a cup of tea. The sugar may be thus prepared and kept in jars till needed, as with lemons and oranges.
PICKLED LIMES (A Dutch Recipe)
After the fruit is thoroughly washed place it in pickle- crocks covered with brine. Place a weight on top and let stand. After four days they will be ready to use. Take out as needed, only. (Also, see Pickled Lemons.)
PRESERVED LIMES
Place the limes in boiling water and keep them cooking at this temperature until tender enough to pierce readily, when place in fresh water and let just come to boiling point. Have ready a syrup made as for ices (see Intro- ductory Recipes) and when the limes are ready dash cold water over them and drain on a cloth, laying another over them. Then place in the boiling syrup and cook gently for twenty minutes when remove and let fruit stand in the syrup over night. Heat next day, letting boil and stand (in syrup) an hour several times after repeating the boiling. Then remove limes from the syrup to heated jars and after cooking down the syrup till quite thick (add more sugar if necessary) pour over the fruit and seal.
CHAPTER XIX
THE PINEAPPLE (Ananas ananas: Nat. Ord. Bromeliacece)
OUTSIDE of the citrus fruits none is to be found which is more entirely beneficial to the human system, more simple and direct in wholesome effect than the pine- apple when in perfect condition: not the stunted, woody specimens too often sold as pineapple. It has not so much nutritive value as some other fruits but is rich in mineral salts and these, with the water which forms so large a per- centage of pine-pulp, and the fruit-sugar, purify the system and soothe the stomach. The active principle of the fruit, ananasine, may be very properly considered a vegetable counterpart of the gastric juice since, as discovered by Sefior V, Marcano, the juice of the ordinary pineapple possesses the "power of digesting protcid vegetable and animal substances." Chittenden, who, with others, fol- lowed up the investigations, found, in addition, that this digestant is active with "either acids or alkaline carbonates" and that "the ferment, to which the name 'bromelin' has been given, is more nearly related to trypsin than to pepsin." The simple fact that pineapple juice will, for instance, digest beef, is very interesting to even the simplest understanding.
The juice is extremely healing in catarrhal affections and physicians recommend its use as a gargle for ordinary sore throats and even for diphtheria. For the greatest benefit to be secured the pineapple is of course best in sim- plest form, uncooked, but when eaten as often as fruit
238
THE PINEAPPLE 239
should be eaten, sameness sometimes palls with even the most delicious of foods and of this there is no necessity as there are many tempting ways of preparing and serving the pineapple.
TO PROPERLY PARE AND THUS PREPARE
An almost invariable mistake is made by Northerners in the peeling of this fruit whole and the attempt to remove the eyes with the peel. The pineapple should first be sliced across, rind and all, according to the thickness de- sired, then each slice taken in turn, in the left hand, held with the rind toward one and pared with the right hand by means of a slim, sharp knife, inserting point and peeling downward, toward one, close to the rind. The eyes may now (left exposed without the hard skin) be easily and quickly removed with none of the usual awkward hacking and loss of juice attendant upon the ordinary method.
AS A SIMPLE BREAKFAST OR LUNCHEON DISH
Serve the pineapple in either the simple slices, one for each fruit-plate, with or without sugar, as the pine may require, or as follows: Take a fully mature, juicy, small, unpeeled pine, cut off the stem and twist off the top or crown. In the pitted space now exposed drive two slender but stout wooden skewers straight down through the apple until the points appear at the stem end. Pull the skewers through the pine, outward, thus dividing it in half, and then again divide, so that the fruit lies in quarters. This can be done with little loss of juice. Now tie the quarters together with a narrow ribbon, re-insert the crown and place up- right on the fruit dish from which it is to be served. Serve by untying the ribbon and placing the quarters on fruit plates. The ordinary small, sharp, silver fruit-knife will dismember the tiny sections of rind so that these little
24o FRUIT RECIPES
\*
tender squares may be conveyed to the mouth by the fingers quite properly and conveniently. If the pine is in proper condition sugar will not be needed but if a trifle tart the bits may be dipped in sugar placed on the indi- vidual plates.
PINEAPPLE IN THE SHELL
Cut a slice off the top of the fruit, straight across, leaving on it the crown. With a sharp knife cut down into the pine all around until near the lower end, being careful not to cut through the rind or shell itself, so that with a slight twist the entire heart or pulp may be removed. Shred or dice this and let stand a half hour or more (according to stage of the fruit), adding, if liked, bits of citrus or other fruits which will absorb the pineapple flavour. Then place in the empty shell and put the top on it. (If it requires fastening at all it may be done with Japanese toothpicks so that the latter will not be seen.) It may be placed on a bed of ice or merely a bed of vines or other graceful gar- nish, and used as a centrepiece.
PINEAPPLE SALAD
Mix one cup tart, chopped pineapple with a shredded grape-fruit and half a cup of chopped nuts or celery. Add fresh, or some form of preserved cherries, and serve on lettuce with mayonnaise dressing.
PINEAPPLE OMELET
Beat three eggs thoroughly with a tablespoon of sugar, adding just at the last a teaspoonful each of pineapple and lemon juice and a pinch of salt. The omelet pan should be ready (heated) containing a teaspoonful of melted butter or oil. Place the eggs therein and as they cook break the omelet once in a while with the tines of a silver fork. When
THE PINEAPPLE 243
water; place on stove and let simmer. Meantime have ready one-half package of gelatine which should have been dissolving for half an hour in one cup of water. When the pine has simmered for ten minutes add the gelatine; strain into a mould and let cool for half an hour. Now add the stiff-beaten whites of three eggs and a little lemon juice ; place mould in outer dish of ice-water and beat the mixture until it thickens somewhat, when set on ice to harden.
It should be remembered that when gelatine is used with pineapple the resulting concoction must be chilled as soon as possible and used not later than two hours after making on account of the chemical action of the peculiar elements of this fruit on the gelatine.
A variation of the above is found in the recipe below.
PINEAPPLE MOUSSE
Place in a saucepan with one cup grated pineapple, half a cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of water, and simmer for five minutes. Add juice of half a lemon; take from fire; cool, stir in one cup of whipped cream or one-fourth cup gelatine (dissolved in one-fourth cup of water), pack the mould round about with ice, and let stand two hours.
PINEAPPLE ICE
For one can grated pineapple or one pint fresh fruit use one pint each of sugar and water and juice of one lemon. Mix and freeze. Or see Introductory Recipes.
PINEAPPLE SHERBET
See Introductory Recipes or use the following: To one quart of boiling water add one and one-fourth pounds of sugar and juice of two lemons. Cook this for five minutes. Take from the fire and add two large
244 FRUIT RECIPES
pineapples grated, or one quart can of grated pineapple. Strain through a cloth, pressing hard to get out all the juice. Then freeze partially, when add beaten whites of two eggs and complete the freezing.
PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM
Make as in Introductory Recipes and let cool. Meantime have ready grated pineapple — one pint to each quart of cream and milk. Let it stand in a little sugar and lemon or orange juice. Partially freeze the cream before adding fruit, then stir it in and finish the process. The reserved pineapple syrup may be substituted for the fruit. In this case a little dissolved gelatine may be used.
FROZEN PINEAPPLE CUSTARD
Add to a quart of milk a tea-cup of sugar and bring to a boil. Add four well-beaten eggs and let the mixture thicken, watching carefully, however, that the mixture does not again boil. Let this cool, then add one pint of pineapple juice or one pint of grated pineapple and freeze. A little lemon juice added will bring out the fruit flavour.
FROZEN PINEAPPLE
Grate or chop fine one quart of pineapple, adding sugar in proportion of one cup to one quart of fruit, if tart; if sweet, less. Or, the grated pineapple may have syrup added to it instead of the sugar. The white of egg or other fruits make variation, also.
PINEAPPLE JELLY No. I
Dissolve one package of gelatine in a pint of cold water, gradually heating it through on the stove. When at boiling point add one cup of sugar and take off to cool. When the
THE PINEAPPLE 245
gelatine is beginning to harden beat into it the juice of one pineapple and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and place on ice to harden.
PINEAPPLE JELLY (WITHOUT GELATINE) No. 2
Wash thoroughly one pineapple, cut off stem and crown and slice in thick slices unpeeled, then cut across. With this slice in thinly two lemons, including rind, and simmer, with one pint of water, for several hours. Strain and squeeze through jelly bag, and place again on stove. When at boiling point strain again into another pan, bring to boiling point and add sugar, pint for pint. Cook about ten minutes, when it will jell. Pineapple makes up into everything in the way of marmalade, and preserves, how- ever, a little more satisfactorily than in the pure jelly form (without gelatine) , as its juice is inclined to be sticky and rich rather than sharp and firm.
PINEAPPLE MARMALADE
Use perfectly ripe, sweet pines, slice and pare, then cut into small pieces. Allow three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of fruit, mix in granite or porcelain bowl, and let stand over night in cool place (preferably on ice). In the morning remove from ice and cook gently for an hour. At the end of this time press through a fruit-crusher or coarse sieve with potato masher. Replace on stove and cook half an hour longer, until clear and golden in colour and it curls stiffly and gently when finger is thrust through it, then place in little pots.
PINEAPPLE JAM
Grate the fruit and place in preserving kettle with sugar, pound for pound. Let heat gradually for twenty minutes then simmer for nearly an hour. Less time may be sufficient
246 FRUIT RECIPES
as much depends upon quality of fruit. If extremely juicy some of the liquor should be strained from the fruit before cooking.
PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (Sliced and Cooked)
Cut in slices, then pare the fruit, placing alternate layers of pineapple and sugar (pound for pound) in pre- serving kettle. To each pound of fruit add one-half cup of water, pouring this in after fruit is placed with sugar. Heat to boiling point, then take out the slices and spread in the sun on dishes. Meantime gently boil the syrup for forty minutes. At the end of this time place pineapple again in kettle and cook all together for twenty minutes. Then remove the fruit, placing it in jars and pouring on it the boiling syrup. Seal at once.
PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (Uncooked and Grated)
In the North, where the climate is less trying to preserved fruits than in the extreme South, pineapple may be grated and preserved uncooked for culinary or medicinal use. Use one pound of sugar to each pound of grated fruit and let stand twelve hours in covered jar in a cold place, if possible, on ice. Then place in jars which (with tops and bands) have been thoroughly sterilised. As an additional safeguard the tops may be dipped in sealing wax or par- affine.
CANNED PINEAPPLE (Without Sugar)
Slice, pare, and heat thoroughly the ripe pineapples to be canned. When boiling remove and place immediately in sealed jars.
CANNED PINEAPPLE (With Sugar)
Use three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of shredded fruit and to each pint of sugar one teacup of water. Heat through and when boiling, can.
THE PINEAPPLE 247
PINEAPPLE CHIPS
The pines should be sliced thin and pared, placed on dishes, and covered thickly with powdered sugar. For ten days these dishes must be kept in a slow oven or other heated place, and the slices turned each day. At the expiration of this time place the slices in a quick oven for just ten minutes, then remove, cool, and place between layers of paper with powdered sugar sifted over the fruit.
PINEAPPLEADE
Boil the parings of pineapple (or with the chopped fruit), and allow the liquid to cool. Add juice of lemon or limes and sweeten to taste.
PINEAPPLE, LEMON OR LIMEADE
For each glass to be served take one tablespoon each of pineapple and lemon or lime juice, and a half-teaspoon of grated orange-peel. Sugar to taste. Fill up the glass with hot or iced water.
PINEAPPLE SYRUP
Slice, pare, and dice three pounds of pineapple. Place in preserving kettle, add one quart of water and one pound of sugar. Cook till very soft, when the fruit should be mashed and strained. Replace in kettle and to each pint of juice add one pound of sugar and cook to a rich syrup. Bottle when hot and cork tightly and it will be ready for use at any time for sauces or drinks.
PINEAPPLE PUNCH
Grate one fresh pine or use a quart can of the preserved, grated apple, or chop fine one can of the sliced pineapple. Add to this at least one quart syrup from any preferred fruit, preserved or fresh (as canned raspberries cherries,
24S FRUIT RECIPES
fresh strawberries, or oranges, etc.), also a half dozen each of lemons and oranges, unless the latter have been used with the pineapple, when substitute lime or grape-fruit in suf- ficient proportion. The citrus fruit juice prepared, may- be squeezed out and the pulp allowed to remain in the fruit or may be sliced across very thin. Over this pour a* hot syrup made as for ices (see Introductory Recipes) and let stand about three hours when strain and add a half gallon of ice water and shaved ice. (The preserved fruit added need not be strained out or, if preferred, fresh, diced, or sliced fruit may be substituted.)
PINEAPPLE CHAMPAGNE
For this the parings alone may be used or in conjunction with the chopped fruit, allowing to and pouring over the parings of one small pine a pint of boiling water. After letting it steep till cold sweeten to taste, then strain and bottle, fastening corks very tight. If kept in warm place (bottles on the side) it should be ready in twenty-four hours. When ripe cool the bottles in ice water.
PINEAPPLE BEER
This, while similar, is more simple than the " champagne." The parings must stand in a covered crock for three days — covered with cold water and sweetened to taste. At the end of this time the beer is ready to strain and use.
PINEAPPLE VINEGAR
Pineapple parings should never be thrown away as there is no finer vinegar in the world in flavour and colour than that made from pineapples. The fruit parings (fruit may also be added) should be placed in crocks and covered with water, sugar or syrup being added in quantity according to
THE PINEAPPLE 249
the condition of the fruit, and allowed to ferment thor- oughly. When this has been accomplished — watched and skimmed meantime— the vinegar must be strained from t,he fruit and placed in jars or bottles.
CHAPTER XX THE BANANA, (Musa, Nat. Ord. Musacece)
PERHAPS no form of plant-life, with the exception of the palm, is more typically tropical in appearance than the Musa (including both plantain and banana) ; none is more widely cultivated through the variations of the warmer climates, and nothing has ever been found in the vegetable kingdom which could with such entire satis- faction or in so wholesale a manner take its place in the countries where it grows. The names of the plantain ("type of the species"), M. paradisiaca, and a variety of it, M. sapientum, or " horse banana," indicate the esteem in which this fruit-food is held — its honour "in its own country." The former was so called by the early oriental Christians, it is said, who, venturing boldly to differ from those idealists mentioned in connection with other fruits, betrayed a certain materialistic tendency in imagining the banana to have been the cause of the dissension in the original garden. If it was there was indeed irony in the wisdom of the serpent's choice (or must we credit him with kindly foresight?), as the plantain provides not only food and drink for man and beast but shelter, since the large leaves make an excellent thatch, and also, we are told, readily furnish "table covers and parasols!" " Sap- ientum" means "of the wise men," in allusion to the choice of the banana as food by the wise men of India — this ac- cording to Theophrastus.
The banana is certainly, with many hot-country peoples, the "staff of life." It is perhaps the best of all
250
THE BANANA 251
starch-foods and healthful when eaten with an under- standing of the fruit's very substantial and sustaining nature. From its composition and wholesome qualities a likeness is directly traceable to wheat bread. The nourish- ment to be derived from the banana is very great and it has been stated that "one pound of bananas is equal to three pounds of meat in nutriment," which, however, should be considered conditionally or relatively. Lean beef, for instance, contains chiefly protein (no carbohy- drates) while bananas are essentially a starchy food, con- taining an exceedingly small per cent, of protein and made up almost entirely of the carbohydrates.
With children the banana should be cut into bits or mashed, not merely because of the danger of choking on the larger, solid, slippery pieces so often mistakenly given them, but because, as with adults, it is usually not suf- ficiently masticated, gives trouble in the process of dis- integration and so is considered indigestible: the difficulty being plainly with the people and not with the banana. (The M. Cavendishi, or Cavendish, and M. Orientum, or Hart's Choice, or Lady Finger, are the most delicate for eating uncooked).
The luxuriance of the banana plant is typified in the long and broad rich leaves of soft, satiny texture, (though firm and somewhat velvety in the earlier stages). But these elongated, vegetable, elephant's ears soon have their smooth surface disturbed, for the wind, brushing their helpless delicate weight, quickly tears them into fine-frayed ribbons. These, when first unfolding, have their tender, pea-green breadths cut up for cooking like vegetables among some of the tropical peoples.
The banana blossom is one of the most beautiful creations of nature. It consists of fold after fold of close-sheathed, shell-like leaves, under each of which a circle of embryo
2S2 FRUIT RECIPES
bananas lies. These leaves, the lining of which is of a deep, delicate maroon, and the outside of dusty, silvery- gray richness, rise slowly up and back as the little bananas grow, protecting them from too great degree of sun or dampness, finally curling and withering as the stem lengthens and the bananas, filling out gradually, need no longer their care.
RECIPES
ICED BANANA SOUP
Mash four bananas ; pass them through a sieve ; measure, then add twice this quantity of cold milk, sugar to taste, a pinch of salt, and the grated rind of an orange. Place on stove and when at boiling point add two teaspoons of corn- starch. Cook five minutes; remove and cool, then place on ice. Serve in bouillon bowls, adding to each a few creme de menthe or maraschino cherries.
BANANA SALAD
Bananas may be sliced, diced or crushed, to be served with fine-sliced orange, or diced apple and nuts, on the tenderest lettuce. Pineapple or cherries may be added. Use the cream or liqueur-flavoured dressings given in Introductory Recipes.
BANANA OMELET
Beat three eggs separately, adding whites last, with a half-cup of sugar and breadcrumbs, a pinch of salt, and the pulp of three bananas. Into this stir the stiff whites and cook in omelet pan.
BAKED BANANAS
The banana may be baked whole, one side of the skin being stripped back in this case, or it may be peeled and
THE BANANA 253
cut in halves or quarters. The fruit should be placed in a baking-pan sprinkled with cinnamon, a half-cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, and tiny bits of butter. Pour into the pan a half-cup of water and baste frequently while baking in a quick oven. Lemon juice may be substituted for cinna- mon, making it into a syrup before baking, then pouring over the fruit when placed in oven. Apples may be baked with the peeled bananas, with delicious results, adding a dash of lemon juice.
FRIED BANANAS
Peel and split bananas; dip each half into well-beaten
egg, then into fine bread crumbs just before frying in
hot oil.
STEWED BANANAS
Peel six bananas which are not too ripe; cut in half crosswise and place in a saucepan with three-fourths pint of claret, two tablespoons of sugar, and a tablespoon of lemon juice. Simmer for half an hour, then set off to cool ; place on ice and serve with whipped cream. Apples or other fruit may be added.
BANANAS WITH RICE /
Bananas stewed or baked may be served with rice
sweetened or plain boiled, the rice heaped in the centre
with a border of the fruit.
BANANA FRITTERS (In Halves)
Let bananas stand for an hour in a deep dish with lemon juice and sugar sprinkled over them, also the grated rind of an orange if convenient. Then cut bananas in half and dip each piece in batter (see Fritter Batter; Introductory Recipes). When brown drain and serve with sugar (pow- dered) sprinkled over them.
254 FRUIT RECIPES
BANANA FRITTERS (Crushed) OR PANCAKES
Crush pulp of six bananas and to this add the beaten yolks of two eggs, a little salt, a tablespoon each of butter and sugar, one and a half cups of flour, and small teaspoon of baking-powder. Add beaten whites of eggs last and drop from spoon into frying kettle. Serve as above. For pancakes make a thinner batter, putting fruit through sieve and cook as for the regular pancake.
BANANA PIE
Mash or grate a banana, add yolks 01 three eggs, two tablespoons of sugar and three-fourths pint of milk in which has been dissolved a tablespoon of cornstarch. Let cook in double-boiler till thick, then place in a pastry- shell just baked. Spread over the top a meringue made with the whites of the eggs and half-cup of sugar; set in the oven and let brown before serving.
BANANA CUP CAKE
One cup of sugar, three of flour, one and a fourth cups of banana pulp, and two teaspoons of baking-powder. Grate orange or lemon peel over the top and bake.
BANANA AND NUT LOAF (For Tea Cake or Pudding)
To one cup crushed banana pulp add one cup each of chopped nuts, grated cocoanut, oatflakes and cracker or breadcrumbs, and one-half cup sugar. Into this sprinkle two teaspoons each of butter and baking-powder, one of salt, and sufficient flour to bind together in thick batter. Bake in moderate oven forty-five minutes.
BANANA LAYER CAKE
Any simple cake batter may be used for the body of the cake (see Introductory Recipes). The filling may be made in any of these ways:
THE BANANA 257
cracker-crumbs mixed with one cup chopped peanuts. Repeat the alternation of layers, having two of each. On top sprinkle sugar and bake forty minutes in moderate oven. (Sauce: see above.)
BANANA ICE AND SHERBET
Make syrup as in Introductory Recipes, adding crushed bananas to taste.
BANANA ICE CREAM
To the crushed pulp of six bananas add one cup sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, and one quart milk and cream mixed. Mix well and freeze.
FROZEN BANANAS
Add to one dozen crushed bananas the juice of two oranges and a pint of sugar. Freeze partially, then add the whipped whites of two eggs and finish freezing.
FROZEN BANANA CUSTARD
To the regular custard for freezing (see Introductory Recipes) add the crushed pulp of four or five bananas and pinch of salt. Freeze.
BANANA MARMALADE
Make a syrup of two cups of sugar to one of water and cook till it strings from the spoon. Stir into it then the crushed or cubed pulp of four bananas and cook slowly (where there is no danger of burning) until thick. (About fifteen minutes). The addition of lemon, currant, or other tart fruit juice relieves the intense sweetness but does not detract from the banana flavour.
258 FRUIT RECIPES
BANANA JELLY
Make a plain gelatine (see Introductory Recipes) with a decidedly tart flavour and add cubed or crushed bananas in quantity liked.
"MUBISI" (S. African Unfermented Banana Wine) P. W. Humphreys, ("What to Eat")
"A big hole is dug in the ground, lined by banana leaves, filled with unripe bananas, and kept covered by mats and earth until the fruit has become completely ripe. Then the bananas are slit, mixed with fine hay, and placed in a large, boat-like, wooden trough which at one end has an emptying pipe. After theadditionof some water the whole is thoroughly mixed by the hand or by short wooden sticks. Thereupon the trough is covered with banana leaves and the mixture is left standing for about one or two hours. After the expiration of that time it is taken out and through grass sieves poured into large calabashes. It is then ready for use and represents a sweet, agreeable and not intoxi- cating beverage.
"MUENGE" (Fermented Wine) P. W. H.
"If the mubisi is left standing for three days it under- goes a fermentation and becomes a slightly acid, refreshing beverage which is strongly intoxicating. If it is filled into bottles and they are kept well corked at a cool place for several months one obtains a sparkling wine strongly resembling champagne.
BANANA BEER, P. W. H.
" If a larger or smaller quantity of millet (boiled) is added to it and the mixture is left standing in large earthen pots for two or three days and stirred from time to time, it becomes a beer which, according to the quantity of millet added, is more or less intoxicating."
THE BANANA 259
DRIED BANANAS
Bananas are dried in the tropics by simply pressing through a sieve and spread out in the sun in cakes till sufficiently evaporated to store away for future use.
BANANA FLOUR
From the banana flour obtainable in Mexico, pancakes, muffins, etc., are made as by the regular recipes with changes according to the strength of the flour.
BANANA SANDWICHES
Slice and serve the fruit between Banana Loaf or plain bread with mayonnaise, or add lemon juice to the crushed pulp. Cress may be added.
CHAPTER XXI THE FIG (Moracece)
THE Ficus carica, or common fig, is but one of more than a hundred species of a most interesting fruit which from the earliest of ancient times has, in its varying forms, been accorded not only a place of importance but honour and reverence. Biblical records mention the fig as clothing, food, and medicine, and, regarding the first, were foliage available for modern costumes the fig tree would be en- hanced in value because of the infinite variety of its leaf- patterns; two leaves, even on the same tree, seldom being found exactly alike.
The Egyptian Sycamore (F. sycamorus) which is sup- posed to be the sycamore of the Scriptures, the Banyan (F. Indica), the India Rubber tree (F. elastica), or "Caout- chouc," and the renowned Peepul Tree of India (F. religiosa: the Bo Tree of Ceylon) are among the many species of the fig, and the oldest tree in the world is a Ceylon Bo Tree whose age is estimated by historical records to be over two thousand years. The Hindus venerate the Sacred Fig because Vishnu is said to have been born under it and the Buddhists because under one of them they believe " Gotama Buddha reclined at Uruwelaya when he underwent his apotheosis." Colder countries are not strangers to the fig for it is cultivated many degrees north of the frost line in both Europe and America though, as in France and England, winter-protection is a necessity.
Either green or dried figs are excellent food and as a whole the fruit has no superior in healthfulness. Its large
260
THE FIG 261
amount of sugar is nourishing and being one of nature's best laxatives, pleasant to the taste, mild yet positive in effect, it may be given more freely — with greater safety in quantity — to many more people (from children to those most advanced in years) than decidedly acid fruits. Figs are also considered good for the kidneys and because of their demulcent property are sometimes given in pulmonary troubles. Externally applied they are considered very healing (as in the days of Hezekiah) and so, roasted gently or boiled, the inner part is not infrequently used as a poul- tice. It is said that among the Malays the juice of one species of fig, the F. toxicaria, is used for poisoning arrows. With some figs the milk is very mild but with many others is acrid though not harmful as with the toxicaria. It was without doubt this very common, temporary stinging sen- sation which gave rise to the custom of eating fresh figs as below.
Wherever this fruit grows every effort should be made to put by a goodly store for future use for, perhaps, in addition to its wholesome qualities there is no fruit which dried, or preserved by some method of cooking, so retains or so transforms its charms into equal attractiveness. It is almost unique in being as agreeable dried as in its original, fresh juiciness and its saccharine quality is greater.
RECIPES
TO EAT FRESH FIGS
When figs are served at the table uncooked hold them by the stem and with a small knife cut the fruit across twice, at right angles, downward as far as the stem. Thus quartered the pulp will open and hang slightly outward but will not become entirely detached. Then with the knife separate the pulp from the skin, gently scraping it
262 FRUIT RECIPES
toward one, from the centre, or stem-heart, downward. By this method one secures the entire pulp without the skin and in convenient bits for eating.
STEWED FIGS
Figs may be stewed in three different ways, if the dried fruit is used:
No. i. Wash figs and place in cold water over night, using a pint of water to a pound of figs. Next morning bring the figs (in same water) slowly to a boil and when tender add half the quantity of sugar that there is juice, cooking down till the syrup is thick. Serve cold with cream.
No. 2. Steam the figs till soft, then place them in boiling syrup for a moment, setting them back where they will not even simmer, for twenty minutes or more, when remove the figs, cook down syrup till thick and pour it over the fruit.
No. 3. Wash and cover the figs with wine, letting stand over night. Then barely simmer till tender, treating the syrup as above.
Fresh figs require simply simmering a few moments in very little water before adding sugar, when let a syrup form before removing. Pineapple, ginger, lemon, rhubarb, or other fruits may be used to flavour.
BAKED FIGS
Place fresh figs in a small crock or earthenware dish, with a little sugar and lemon juice or that of other fruit. Cover and bake slowly and no water will be required.
TO FRESHEN FIGS
Place dried figs in an enamelled colander and steam until soft and filled out in appearance. Remove and prepare
THE FIG 263
further for cooking as desired or roll in confectioners'
sugar and set aside to partially dry before serving. A drop
of tart fruit-juice and a little sugar may be placed inside
the fig.
STUFFED FIGS
Remove the inside of steamed or fresh figs and mix the part removed with chopped nuts moistened with a syrup of sugar and tart fruit-juice (cooked or uncooked). Roll in sugar and serve.
FIG LOAF CAKE No. 1
Cream two cups of brown sugar with one of butter. Add one cup of water, four eggs, three and three-fourths cups of flour, one teaspoon each of soda and grated nutmeg, and two of cinnamon. Have ready, chopped and floured, one pound of figs cut in fine strips lengthwise, and three cups chopped raisins, adding these just before baking.
FIG LOAF CAKE No. 2
To two cups of sugar add a generous half cup of butter, one of milk, four (scant) of flour (in which two teaspoons of baking-powder have been sifted) and four eggs. Flour two cups chopped figs and add to batter just before placing in pans to bake.
LITTLE FIG CAKES
Beat together five eggs. Add to this a pinch of salt, a cup each of sugar and chopped nuts, and a half cup of raisins, the juice of one lemon and a pinch of nutmeg, one cup of bread-crumbs in which has been well mixed a rounded teaspoon of baking-powder, and one-half pound figs chopped fine. Bake in one rather thin sheet and when the cake is cold cut in small squares. This may be iced with a plain boiled icing (see Introductory Recipes) into which has been stirred one cup of chopped figs and nuts.
264 FRUIT RECIPES
FIG LAYER CAKE
Use any of the plain foundation cake batters (see Intro- ductory Recipes) and bake in layers. For filling use the real fig jelly, or the filling given next below or "Fig Snow."
FIG FILLING OR JELLY FOR CAKE
Chop or shred one pound of figs and boil until tender in one coffee-cupful of water, in double boiler. Add one and one -half cups of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla. Boil down until smooth and thick. Spread while warm.
FIG SNOW FOR FILLING
Mix fig pulp (fresh or steamed, or stewed) with whipped cream or meringue as for banana filling for Banana Layer Cake.
FIG PUDDING OR PIE (Very Simple)
Cut fine one-half pound fresh or dried figs and simmer half an hour in three-fourths pint of water, a dessert- spoonful of sugar being added when nearly done. Re- move and cool, when add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Place in a pudding or pie dish and bake in moderate oven until the yolks are set sufficiently, then place on top a meringue made of the whites of the eggs and two table- spoonfuls of sugar. Let this brown and remove to cool.
FIG SUET PUDDING (An English Recipe)
Chop fine six ounces of suet in three-fourths pound of flour, adding a well-beaten egg, three-fourths cup of sugar, and sufficient milk to form a smooth dough. Roll out half an inch thick and sprinkle on it one pound fine-chopped figs. Roll this up and tie in a pudding cloth, place in boil- ing water, and boil for two hours. (A little nutmeg may be used for flavouring.)
THE FIG 265
FIG BREAD PUDDING
Soak three cups of breadcrumbs in one and one-fourth pints of water and beat into this four eggs, a pinch of salt, two tablespoons of sugar, and one and one-third cups of chopped figs. (The figs should be first dredged in flour.) Flavour with lemon or nutmeg. Beat well, then place in pudding-dish and bake slowly for an hour and a half, or place pudding in tight-covered vessel which is to be placed in a pot of boiling water and kept at a boil for two and a half hours. Serve with hard sauce.
k^FIG BLANC MANGE
Make as for Banana Blanc Mange; using one cup of fig pulp and one cup of chopped nuts and a little lemon tinc- ture. Prepare a sauce with the yolk of the egg beaten with a tablespoon of sugar and stirred in with a pint of boiling milk. Add one teaspoon of cornstarch, wet with a little water, and remove from the fire. Nutmeg may be added or a dash of lemon extract. Serve cold.
FIG ICE-CREAM
For two quarts of fig ice-cream mix one quart of cream with two cups of sugar and freeze partially. Then add to the mixture two cups of fig marmalade, the juice of one lemon with one teaspoonful of lemon extract, and the whites of four eggs with which has been whipped a pinch of salt, and finish freezing.
FIG ICE-CREAM No. 2
Stir together one pint of cream, one pint of new milk, and three-fourths cup of sugar. Place on stove and bring to a boil. In a separate vessel should have been stewed one cup of chopped dried figs or two cups of fresh fruit in
266 FRUIT RECIPES
one-half cup of water. Add to the hot milk and let cool. Then freeze, adding at the last moment either pineapple or lemon extract and the juice of half a lemon. This will make nearly two quarts.
FIG ICE
Peel two quarts of fresh figs and stir well with the juice of one lemon and its grated peel, or one teaspoon lemon extract, some fruit acid and two cups of sugar. Add two cups of water and freeze.
FIG CANDY
Boil over a slow fire one pound of sugar and a half pint of water until the syrup hardens when dropped into cold water. Add half a teaspoon of vinegar and remove from the fire, stirring once or twice before pouring over a layer of figs placed in deep dish. Dried figs may be used either previously soaked an hour in cold water, or those perfectly dry. They are more apt to give good results than the fresh figs.
CANDIED OR CRYSTALLISED FIGS
Proceed as in third method for drying until the syrup- dipping stage is reached. At this point, on removing them from the boiling syrup drain and sprinkle thickly with granulated sugar, then place on thin wooden slabs or "hurdles" of galvanised iron and dry very slowly in fruit-dryer or slow oven, turning the figs frequently. When thoroughly dried and sugared these may be packed in layers, with oil paper between and kept in a dry place.
Or proceed as for candied cherries, dipping first in brine instead of lye.
FIG JAM
If dried steam first till very soft. If fresh and ripe place them in a double-boiler, heating through perfectly
2t
but adding no water. They may be steamed instead. Add about one-half their weight then of sugar and cook down carefully till thick. Lemon juice and peel, pine- apple or other decided fruit may be added for flavouring. This if preferred may be rubbed through a coarse sieve and heated again before sealing in little pots or jars.
FIG JELLY
Slice the figs into the preserving kettle, covering bottom of kettle with cold water. Add slicesof unpeeled lemon, one lemon to one and a half pints of uncooked figs. Place on back of stove to cook slowly an hour, when strain and boil for fifteen or twenty minutes (according to the state of the syrup or the weather), adding three-fourths quan- tity of sugar to that of the fruit.
PRESERVED FIGS
Heat figs through thoroughly in a steamer, double- boiler or slow oven without water, then drop them into a heavy, boiling syrup; remove and let stand in it over night. In the morning bring to a boil, remove ; let stand till cold; re-heat; drain; pack figs close together in jars; cook down the syrup and pour over the fruit. Figs may be pre- served in lemon syrup, in grape juice, or other tart fruit juices or have added to them lemon peel and juice or lemon and ginger root. See also Preserved Cherries. Dried figs may be steamed and then so preserved or by simpler pro- cess. Many people hold that preserved fresh figs must first be dipped in boiling lye, repeating several times, a minute at a time.
PICKLED FIGS
Pick figs which are barely ripe, though fully swollen out, and leave stems on the fruit. Place in a jar of fairly strong
268 FRUIT RECIPES
brine and let stand over night when rinse well in fresh cold water, drain, pack close together in jars, and pour over them hot spiced vinegar (sweetened if liked) as for apples, cherries, grapes, etc.
CAKES OF FIGS
Cook ripe, peeled figs slowly in double boiler with a little sugar and flavouring (if liked), till smooth and thick. Almonds may be added while cooking. Pour into shallow moulds or pans and dry slowly in sun, oven, or dryer, when perfectly dry cutting in squares or strips and wrapping in oiled paper or storing in dry place. These may be used for cookery as are the commercial figs.
TO DRY FIGS
There are several methods in vogue for this, a California treatment of them (Dr. Eisen's) reported by the Depart- ment of Agriculture (Div. of Pomol., Bui. No. i) being the following: "When the figs began to wilt and show small white seams they were cut from the tree by means of scissors or a knife, then carefully placed on trays similar to raisin trays. (An improvement is here suggested of nailing laths to form longitudinal ribs across the tray-bottoms.) By placing the figs with the eye elevated on the rib the sugary contents are prevented from leaking out. . . . The figs are now placed in the sun to dry turned every day, at first separately by hand, but when partially dried were turned . . . as we turn raisin trays. Every night they were covered over. . . . The figs are sufficiently dry when they show the same dryness in the morning as the evening. . . . If not sufficiently dried they will puff up and spoil. It is, however, a great danger to overdry the figs . Such figs will get a cooked and earthy taste. ... It took from five to twelve days to dry the figs, according to the weather.
THE FIG 269
When dry they may be dumped into sweat boxes for a few days but the better way is to dip and pack them right away. Now prepare a kettle or tub with boiling water, in which is put enough common unrefined rock salt, such as is used for cattle ; table salt will not do. . . . Sea water may be preferable. . . . About three big handfuls of rock salt to one gallon of water is enough. When the salt is dis- solved and the water is again boiling immerse the figs for two seconds; immediately afterwards thumb the figs, and work the eye of the fig downward and the stalk end up- ward. . . . This process is necessary. First, it dis- tributes the thicker skin around the eye of the fig evenly, and in eating we thus get equal parts of the thicker . . . . and thinner skin. Secondly, it places the fine skin of the stalk end on top, and when the figs are packed and pressed they present a beautiful smooth surface. I believe the dipping of the figs in boiling salt water may be dispensed with if the figs are sufficiently pliable without it. But it is absolutely indispensable to dip the figs in salt water, and during the thumbing of the figs the hands of the packer must be constantly moistened by salt water or the sugar will stick to the fingers and make the operation almost impossible. . . . The figs taste at first exceedingly salt . . . but after a few days the salt works into the fig and gives it a peculiar appetising taste, counteracting the excessive sweetness.
"The heavy pressing of the figs, which is always so strong that it causes them to burst at the stalk end is much objected to by the consumer, as it evidently defaces the fig. But, nevertheless, this compression is absolutely necessary. It prevents insects from entering between them and it prevents the air entering, thus drying out the
fig. . . .-
A second California method reported (Mr. Burnham,
270 FRUIT RECIPES
of Riverside) was to pick the figs when wilted and while yet green to treat it to " a strong sulphur bath," then put- ting in the sun to dry, after this sweating it in sacks, then packing.
A Florida method "H. R. " (Farmer and Fruit Grower) is to gather the figs when fully ripe but before they crack open. The fruit should be placed "in a wire basket and dip it into a deep kettle of hot lye made from wood ashes. Let it remain in the lye a minute or two to remove the gum and milk and until the figs begin to shrivel slightly. Let all the lye drip off the figs, place them in a kettle or vat of boiling syrup, and let them remain in it three or four minutes. Then dip them out with a skimmer, let the syrup run off entirely and place the fruit at once in a dryer or evaporator. When sufficiently dry let them become perfectly cool and pack very close in drums or boxes, pressing the fruit down compactly with a small lever.' '
Figs form their own sugar in packing but spices may be placed between the layers, or the Southern sweet bay, if time and fancy so dictate.
A simpler method is to pick when ripe and dry on trays in the sun, turning every day and pressing flat with the hand. Pack in layers and keep in a dry place.
CHAPTER XXII
THE DATE— THE COCOANUT
Phcenix Dactilifera Cocos — Nucifera — Phoenicacece
THE date, whether fruit or tree, instinctively brings to mind the islands of the desert: the cocoanut those of the tropical seas. Differing thus widely as to natural habitat and as to type of fruit there are neverthe- less necessarily striking points of resemblance and similar- ity of general products presented by these two stately, graceful members of the Palm Family, and by the increase and scattering of the human family they have become more closely associated as to places of growth. The general contour of the trees and bunching of the fruit in the bushy tops are the same ; the fibre of the leaf-stems of both is used in the manufacture of cordage, the leaves themselves for mats, baskets, and innumerable other products; the wood for local building purposes or imported for making up into highly polished furniture or choice woodwork.
Both these palms yield quantities of sap, known as 41 toddy," and it is a common, yearly practice to tap them. The toddy, unfermented, is much liked as a drink and when in this condition and boiled down the syrup called 44 jaggery" is obtained, which in turn yields another product: sugar; about one pound resulting from four of the syrup, it is estimated. Fermented, the sap becomes palm wine or is distilled into arrack. The heart
271
272 FRUIT RECIPES
or terminal bud of these palms, called the " cabbage, " is sweet, tender, and nutty, but it is too luxurious an article of diet to be often indulged in, as its removal causes the death of the tree. The ends of the leaf-stalks, however, are almost identical in texture and flavour and are used as a vegetable.
With these points of similarity the general resemblance in appearance and food values of the trees ceases for the fruits borne by them are totally unlike in form and kind of nutriment. The date's distinctive and preponderating element is sugar; that of the cocoanut, oil. The small proportion of fat contained in the date is chiefly in its stones or pits which are sometimes roasted and ground for use as a substitute for coffee and sometimes ground un- roasted to secure the oil contained in them. The cake or paste remaining from the latter process is given to camels as food, as are also types of imperfect dates. The dates themselves,when compressed in preparing them into dried cakes for future use, give out a syrup which is used in cookery like molasses, and the crushed fruit may be fermented for date wine. So concentrated has nature made the food value of the date, so powerful and readily carried a store- house of energy, that in some countries the killing of a date-palm is a criminal offence. It is true that dates contain a very small per cent, of protein but their sugar is in so pure and simple a form that they are readily digested and when eaten with nuts to furnish the nitrogen and fat the combination is an almost perfect food.
More than one variety of date bears fruit. The wild date of India, Phoenix sylvestris> is famed for its sugar production as well as for its fruit. On the whole this fruit- bearing palm is not as sensitive to cold as is the cocoanut and grows luxuriantly in parts of Spain and Italy. It begins to bear from about ten years old upward indefinitely,
DATE— COCOANUT 273
age seeming no hindrance. Some of the Italian date trees prove their longevity for it was over one thousand years ago that those of Bordighera were planted by the monks. Cocoanuts, like dates, contain only a small per cent, of nitrogen, but, unlike that other palm fruit, provide one of the most delightful forms of oil and in as generous quantity as the date gives sugar. According to the tradition of colder climes the cocoanut is indigestible, but in the balmy countries where the cocoa-palm flourishes one does not hear of this, chiefly because its fruit is there eaten in proper condition: when at the right stages to be offered human stomachs. The white "nut" -lining is soft enough at first (when half "ripe"), to be eaten with a spoon, and the milk is not thick and white but clear, somewhat sweet, and most refreshing up to perfect maturity. It is said there is nothing more easily digested, assimilated and fattening than fresh cocoanut milk, and it is recommended to invalids to be as freely indulged in as possible: perhaps the juice of six cocoanuts a day to begin with, as a restora- tive. (Fresh cocoanut oil is sometimes prescribed as a substitute for cod liver oil.) There are people whose en- thusiasm over it goes so far as to claim the probability of cocoanut milk being that fountain of youth so ardently sought and so persistently concealed since time itself was young. But, as with many other fruits, the cocoanut is gathered before maturity for shipment and even where cold does not affect it on the long journey it is impossible but that it should be the reverse of improved on reaching its destination. However, one may get something of the flavour of both milk and meat in the northlands and need not shun them if one uses the cocoanut from the shell and so gets it unadulterated, and uses always sufficient of all kinds of fruit to keep one's digestive apparatus in good condition.
274 FRUIT RECIPES
RECIPES FOR DATES AND COCOANUT
DATE SANDWICHES
Stone and chop dates until soft enough to spread between thin slices of buttered bread. If good butter and whole- some white or brown bread are used one has a most satis- fying luncheon, containing all the requirements of fat, sugar, nitrogen, etc. One may substitute fine-chopped nuts for the butter, for variety, if one wishes.
DATE GEMS
To half a cup of stoned, chopped dates add the well- beaten yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, half a pint of sweet milk, two scant cups of flour in which two teaspoons of baking-powder have been sifted, adding a tablespoon of oil or butter before beating in the whipped white of the egg. Bake for twenty minutes rather briskly.
DATE FRUIT BREAD
Make as for Bread for Fruit Toast (Introductory Recipes), and for each loaf allow and work in nearly a pint of chopped, stoned dates.
DATES WITH BREAKFAST FOOD
With any cooked breakfast food stir in a cup or more of stoned, chopped dates a few minutes before removing from the fire. Or, they may be added to any uncooked, flaked food with delicious effect.
STEWED DATES
Wash and cover a pound of dates with one pint of water and let stand over night. In the morning place on the stove and let them come to a boil. Let them simmer gently
DATE— COCOANUT 279
substituted with milk for the cocoanut juice.) Add half a nutmeg grated; boil fifteen minutes, skimming, then serve with small French rolls or milk biscuit. Sugar may be passed with this.
COCOANUT CURRY
In India cocoanut is very much used in curries. For a vegetable curry melt two tablespoons of butter in a sauce- pan (or use cookng oil) ; slice into this one onion and let it cook for a few moments. Now add one tablespoonful of curry powder mixed with a half pint of cocoanut milk and a scant teaspoon of salt, and let simmer for five minutes. The vegetables should have been prepared beforehand, cooked separately: (cut in small bits): two carrots; two medium-sized Irish potatoes; one-half pint of green peas, and one-half pint of grated cocoanut. Place these in the curry and let simmer for about five minutes, when it is ready to serve.
COCOANUT OMELET
Beat together the whites of three eggs with a half tea- spoonful of salt and dash of tabasco. When well whipped add the yolks and one cup of grated cocoanut with a half cup of cocoanut milk. Cook carefully for three minutes in a well-buttered saucepan where there is moderate heat, slipping a knife under the omelet once or twice to prevent burning. When partially brown set in the oven to finish cooking, a good final test being that of no particle sticking to a knife thrust into the centre.
COCOANUT INDIAN FRITTERS
Place in a bowl three tablespoons of flour and scald with sufficient scalding cocoanut milk to make a smooth, stiff paste. Let it cool, then add to it the beaten yolks
28o FRUIT RECIPES
of four eggs, and the whites of two, with a cup or more (as desired) of fresh, shredded cocoanut. Work this up well together then drop by dessertspoonfuls into boiling fat or oil and fry to a golden brown.
COCOANUT TOAST
Toast to a medium brown some slices of rusk and pour over them fresh cocoanut milk, slightly thickened; adding at the last shredded, tender cocoanut — fresh gathered. Serve hot with a dash of nutmeg over the whole.
COCOANUT AND ORANGE FLOWERS
When at its first creamy (" spoon") stage serve the cocoanut from the shell, in convenient pieces, or scraped on to a serving-dish, and sprinkled with the fresh or candied petals of orange-flowers. The preserved orange flowers may be used with this, also. Cream, sugar, a meringue, or wine may be served with it.
SHERRIED COCOANUT
Grate a fresh cocoanut and drop into a thick syrup made of four cups of sugar to two of water, and cook gently for forty minutes. When done remove from the fire and immediately stir in the beaten yolks of three eggs. These should thicken a little with the beating and heat. Add a wineglassful of sherry, whip well and cool. (The eggs may be stirred in while still on stove but should never be allowed to boil.)
COCOANUT CUPS
Gently stew a sliced cocoanut in the cocoanut milk for an hour, or until tender, then add juice and grated rind of one lemon or orange, a half-cup of sugar, and the beaten yolks of four eggs. Let thicken slightly, then pour into
CHAPTER XXIII
THE JAPANESE PERSIMMON (Diospyrus Kaki, Diospyracece)
THIS, the national fruit of Japan, is a giant compared with the persimmon of the North American woods as regards the size of its fruit; the tree is a comparative dwarf but makes up in beauty, symmetry, and convenience of size what it lacks in height. It does not need the frost to sweeten its fruit but neither does the frost-touch prove harmful as to other semi-tropical fruits. There is as end- less an array of variety in this persimmon as the apple can present and it is used by the Japanese in as many different ways and as constantly. The Japan persimmon varies so in size, flavour, and shape, from the size of a base-ball to that of the largest orange; from those somewhat tasteless and dry to a ravishingly delicious and juicy type; and from the rounding, through all degrees, to the extremely elongated — that one can but generalise in dealing with it. It seems a great pity that it is not better known and ap- preciated in Northern markets, as it ships well, grows so readily and in such abundance that it is not the expensive fruit many of the semi-tropical, products prove to be, and yet is one of the richest of fruits in food value. It can best perhaps be compared with the banana as to its type of riches and its practicability as "a whole meal" in itself. It has wealth of carbohydrates, also fat and protein, (with more sugar however), and its energy-producing power is about the same as the forceful banana.
It is susceptible of much more variation than is realised
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284 FRUIT RECIPES
yet in even Florida and California, and its prodigai abun- dance might be indulged in not only more freely, with better results because of its substance, but farther north than it has yet been grown or shipped. It should be mentioned, however, that only the "chocolate" or dark-meated vari- eties, of which there are a number, should be used in cookery. Even where the others are perfectly ripe the chemical action of the heat brings out the astringent quality so actively that it is impossible to eat the results. The chocolate varieties may be used without any danger of the development of unpleasant qualities. The thoroughly ripe Northern persimmon in its sweet, sugary state, may be also used with great success with most of the recipes or suggestions given for the Japanese.
RECIPES
TO SERVE OR COMBINE THE UNCOOKED
PERSIMMON
In serving the uncooked Kaki send it to the table with sharp-pointed spoons with which both to pierce quickly the thin skin and eat the pulp. Or it may be peeled care- fully, the pulp removed and mixed lightly with orange juice and sugar or with whipped cream — this, before serving. Tapioca and sago, or gelatine already cooked, may be added with the whipped white of an egg for a dessert, but in such case the puddings should be made rather thick and partially cooled before pouring over the persimmon, in order that the latter may not become too juicy with the warmth and make the dessert watery. Frozen persimmons are very delicious — peeled and frozen whole with sugar and orange juice, or mashed with syrup and lemon juice as an ice, or added at the last moment to plain ice-cream.
JAPANESE PERSIMMON 285
PERSIMMON (Cooked Pudding)
This pudding may be made by using to a quart of per- simmon pulp two eggs, a pint of milk, a cupful of sugar, a heaping tablespoon of cornstarch, wet in part of the milk, and a heaping teaspoon of baking-powder. Where orange juice is desired as flavouring substitute a small spoonful of soda for the baking-powder. Bake in pudding-dish slowly for an hour and serve, while still warm, with cold milk or cream, though persimmons are too rich almost of themselves to be served with cream.
MARMALADE AND JELLY
The marmalade (from the dark, non-astringent fruit) should be cooked in double-boiler with no water. Add instead, a little orange juice (about half a pint to two quarts of pulp), and when cooked down thick stir in three-fourths the quantity of sugar (heated) that there is pulp, and cook till stiff as one's taste indicates. Jelly may also be made with orange juice and orange-pulp added, or the pulp of pie-melon, half melon and half persimmon; but, while the jelly is pretty and delicate it has not much individuality and can scarcely be said to pay for the trouble. The per- simmon makes excellent vinegar, beer, and wine and may be preserved, dried, somewhat after the manner of figs.
TO CURE OR DRY PERSIMMONS
One of the U. S. Government Reports (Fla. Bui. No. 71) gives the following quotation from Professor Kizo Tamari (of the Agricultural College, Imperial University, Tokio) as to the Japanese methods of curing the persimmon: "I will tell you how to cure the austere varieties so as to make them edible or change them into sweet ones in the following ways:
286 FRUIT RECIPES
4 'First Method — When fairly ripened pick the fruit from the trees, peel off the skin and hang them by threads at- tached to the stems in a room for two or three weeks. They will then turn brown or black and become soft. You will say that they are the most delicious fruits in the world and dried still further, they will become just like dried figs, or better than figs. Further, pack them in a box in alternate layers with cut rice straw and keep them for a month. Black ones then become covered with a white powder (not mouldy). They then become very sweet, though the sweetness may not be retained through the next summer.
"Second Method — Harvesting time being the same as above, the fruits are packed into an empty wine cask (in Japan Sake casks, Japanese rice-wine). This should still be full of alcoholic flavour, or if the flavour be weak, the cask should be sprinkled with wine or brandy or any other spirit. Sherry wine somewhat resembles our Sake. Sprinkle the fruits very lightly with wine and keep covered air-tight for a week or two according to the temperature and the degree of austereness of the fruit. At the end of the time they become sweet.
"Other Methods — The process of sweetening is not merely limited to the above methods, but the fruit may be treated in several other ways; for instance, put new rice straws and dried haulms of sweet potato in about equal proportion in a vat, filling it about one-fifth full. To this add a little wood ashes and pour warm water over them. Stir up the straw so as to get it thoroughly wet. When the water is tepid, put in fruit to fill it one-quarter to one-third full and stir up to wet the fruit and imbed it in the straw. Cover the vat for five or seven days, after which time the fruit will be fit to eat. The fruits thus cured are not as sweet as by the Sake cask process. M
CHAPTER XXIV THE GUAVA (Psidium, Nat. Ord. Myrtacem)
THE Guava, a fruit of peculiarly aromatic odour, and one of the most attractive members of the Myrtle Family, is best known to botanists and cooks through its "pear" and " apple1' varieties (Psidium pyriferum and P. pomiferum), varieties of the common guava (P. Guajava), and, in lesser degree, the red Cattley (P. Cattleyanum) and the Chinese guava, or "yellow Cattley" (P. Chinense). It is interesting to know that this all- around fruit, as useful and practicable in cookery in the more southern countries as is the apple in colder climates, is considered as without doubt American in origin, for although China has its yellow Cattley, it is supposed to have been carried there at a very early date from Brazil. The red or purple Cattley, sometimes called in California the "strawberry " guava, and the yellow Cattley are partic- ularly to be desired for jelly making. ("Strawberry0 is a name also familiarly applied to a small pink variety of the common guava.) The thick-fleshed pear and apple types (taking their names greatly from their forms) are large and have few seeds comparatively, so that there is less waste, and from the tone of their flavours may be used more as are vegetables in general culinary work. Almost any recipe suitable for peaches (the flesh of the guava being similarly delicate) or for apples may be applied to the guava.
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288 FRUIT RECIPES
RECIPES
TO SERVE THE GUAVA UNCOOKED
Peel the fruit, selecting if possible the nearly seedless varieties, and where the seeds are virtually nil slice across the fruit and serve with sugar and cream or a little wine and spice with sugar. Where the seeds form an objection- able centre, slice lengthwise or halve after peeling and scrape or scoop away the seeds from the inner side before serving. The scooped-out halves of the larger varieties may be filled with chopped nuts, cocoanut shredded, candied fruits, whipped cream or meringue, the Kaki and orange juice, and innumerable other variations for special occasions.
STEWED GUAVA
Peel and proceed as above, then cover with cold water or sweet milk and simmer gently until tender. At this stage add sugar, or sugar and spice to taste, and serve when cool.
GUAVA SAUCE
This may be made with the cooked or fresh guavas. Peel and put through a coarse sieve or fruit crusher to remove the seeds. The pulp resulting — a smooth mass — may be mixed with sugar alone or with the addition of a little lime or lemon juice or spice. Serve as with apple- sauce. The white of an egg may be whipped stiff and added
if liked.
GUAVA SALADS
Peel and slice as far outside the seed centre as possible, removing seeds remaining on inner side. It is advisable to use either the large pale-yellow pear guava, mild in flavour, or the vermilion- tinted red, tart fruit (the original apple guava). Serve on lettuce or tender cabbage- heart with
THE GUAVA 289
French dressing. Mayonnaise is, however, sometimes pre- ferred. As with other fruits variety almost without end may be made by adding celery or nuts, other fruits or delicate vegetables.
GUAVA WITH MACARONI
For this use only the very tart fruit. Peel and put pulp through sieve. In one pint of pulp rub smooth a teaspoon of flour with a teaspoon of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. (A little lemon juice will be necessary with the milder varieties.) Bring this to scalding point in double-boiler. Have ready plain boiled macaroni cut in inch lengths; drain and add the prepared guava. Place in baking-dish, sprinkle breadcrumbs and bits of butter on top, and bake in quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes.
GUAVA FRITTERS
Peel and slice thick the fruit (removing seeds). The lengthwise slices are best where seeds are prominent. Dip in fritter batter (see Introductory Recipes) and proceed as for other fruit fritters.
GUAVA SHORTCAKE
Make a sauce (as above), preferably with the uncooked fruit, and serve as for Strawberry Shortcake. (See also Introductory Recipes.)
GUAVA COBBLER
See Peach Cobbler.
GUAVA BROWN BETTY
Make as for Apple Brown Betty. (See "The Apple.")
GUAVA DUMPLINGS
See Apple and Lemon Dumplings.
29o FRUIT RECIPES
GUAVA ROLY POLY
See Apple Roly Poly.
GUAVA CUSTARD
To the yolks of three whipped eggs add three cups guava pulp, one pint of milk, a little orange peel, two teaspoons cornstarch, a pinch of salt, and sugar to taste. Bake in cups or pastry shells, in pudding-dish unlined or cook in double-boiler with care (as with all custards) and pour into heated glass dish.
OTHER DESSERTS
Guavas may be used with all of the foundation lormulas given in Introductory Recipes and will be found very deli- cious with gelatine and other delicate concoctions as well as in tarts, etc. For all ices the guava is particularly satis- factory. For these the syrup may be used as well as the preserved forms put through a sieve so that they may be had out of season as well as when the fresh, crushed fruit is at hand.
GUAVA JELLY No. i
A good general rule in guava-jelly (more than with al- most any other fruit) is to avoid that which is "dead ripe." Never use the entire quantity of mature guavas. To make in small quantities is best and an excellent plan is to save the parings and seed centres for a day or two from fruit used for sauce or desserts. For Jelly No. i use half the quantity of ripe guavas and half those which are well filled out but not quite turned in colour: not thoroughly mature. If the whole fruit is used slice it, cover bottom of preserving kettle with cold water, and simmer till soft. Strain through jelly-bag (never squeeze) ; boil the juice rapidly twenty minutes with or without the juice of half
THE GUAVA 291
a lemon added for each half-pint; add warm, granulated sugar, cup for cup with the juice, and let melt and boil. This should jell in about twenty-five minutes.
GUAVA JELLY No. 2
For this take the entire quantity of guavas well filled out but still quite under-ripe. Slice; place with cold water as above; simmer till cooked to pieces and strain. For each pint of thick juice which results place in another vessel a half-pound of sugar and a half pint of water. Make this into a syrup and when it has thickened somewhat add two pints of the syrup to each pint of the fruit juice. Cook slowly till it jells. (See Citron Melon in Jelly.)
CATTLEY GUAVA JELLY
The Cattley may be used in its mature or immature stages, its general tartness precluding the necessity gener- ally of using lemon juice with it. Proceed otherwise as with any regular fruit jelly, using sugar pint for pint.
GUAVA PASTE
This is a heavy, pasty jelly much esteemed as a delicacy. Use for the unripe fruit three-fourths its weight in sugar. Cook the sugar in a separate vessel with water equal in quantity to the sugar, reducing to a heavy syrup. In another vessel cook the sliced, unpeeled ripe guavas with a little water till quite soft, then strain through coarse sieve and cook again slowly in double-boiler. When the mass is a thick paste add the boiling syrup to it and cook until it begins to candy when dropped in iced water. Line tin boxes with white or oiled paper and fill with the paste. Serve for breakfast or for dessert, in latter case with accompaniment of Edam or fresh cream cheese.
292 FRUIT RECIPES
GUAVA MARMALADE
Cook as for jelly, pressing through coarse sieve when soft. Cook up again with equal quantity of sugar, adding juice of one lemon to each pint of pulp. When thick place in jars.
GUAVA PRESERVE
Peel and halve ripe guavas, removing seeds with pointed spoon. For each pint of fruit add one pound of sugar and three-fourths pint of water. Cook together until the syrup candies slightly in cold water, then add fruit and cook till translucent.
GUAVA SWEET PICKLE
Make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to each quart of vinegar and six pounds of fruit, adding a teaspoon each of allspice, mace, cloves, and cinnamon. Simmer half an hour, skimming the while, then drop into it the whole fruit, peeled (ripe but very firm), and cook slowly until tender but not too soft. Remove fruit and cook syrup alone till thick, then pour, boiling hot, over the fruit, packed in jars for sealing.
GUAVA CATSUP
Slice ripe guavas and cover with cold water. Let sim- mer till soft, then rub through colander and coarse sieve (both). To each four quarts of guava allow four small tablespoons each of salt and ground mustard; one each of pepper, allspice, and celery seed (the latter in a small bag). Simmer slowly in a quart of strong vinegar for four hours. Stir carefully and frequently to pre- vent burning. This should cook down thick and smooth. Set aside at the end of four hours and let stand over night. When cool, if too thick add vinegar till of right consistency, then re-heat to boiling point and bottle while hot , sealing tight.
THE GUAVA 293
GUAVA CHUTNEY
To five pounds of guavas, peeled and crushed free of seed, add two pounds of brown sugar, and two quarts of strong vinegar. Simmer till smooth and thick then add two pounds chopped, seedless raisins, a small minced onion, (or head of garlic) and let come to a boil. Remove immediately at this point and add one and a half tablespoons (small) each of powdered ginger and mustard; four of salt, and two small chopped red-pepper pods. Stir well and let stand over night. In the morning stir again, place on stove and bring to boiling point, then bottle or put in jars, sealing tight.
GUAVA SYRUP (For Iced Drinks or Pancakes)
Make as for guava preserves, but including seeds, strain- ing off the syrup and bottling while hot. Seal well. Dilute when required for use.
GUAVA SHRUB (For Iced Drinks)
To six quarts ripe, sliced guavas add one quart of water and two and a half ounces tartaric acid or one quart strong vinegar. Let stand twenty-four hours, stirring occasion- ally (Do not let it ferment), then strain, add a pound of sugar to each pint of juice, scald for half an hour, and bottle while hot.
GUAVA BRANDY
See Peach and Cherry Brandies.
GUAVA WINE Make as for Mulberry Wine.
GUAVA VINEGAR
Save all parings and seeds from fresh or cooked guava* and place in stone jar, covering with cold water. Over
294 FRUIT RECIPES
the mouth of jar tie thin cotton cloth and let stand a week, when the old seeds must be removed and replaced with fresh seeds or else start new jars with fresh peel and seeds, pouring all the water together as the old seeds are removed. After the fruit is removed add one-half pint sugar to each gallon of fermented liquor. Keep the cloth tied over the jar-mouth for about two weeks (or less) after the sugar is added and fermented, then cork tight.
CHAPTER XXV
ROSE AND MALAY APPLES, JAVA PLUM, SURINAM AND BARBADOES "CHERRIES," AND MARMALADE BOX
THE ROSE APPLE or Eugenia Jambos
THIS beautiful, dainty fruit is of the same large family of which the guava is a member, the Myrtacece, and also that to which the allspice, the Eugenia pimento, , belongs. With its rose odour and overdress and delicate flavour, it is an extremely attractive morsel. It may be eaten in its natural state; sliced, with wine and sugar; sim- mered gently with sugar so that a delicate, simple sauce is the result, or its top and seeds removed, dropped into boiling syrup for about fifteen minutes, then served whole, cold. In general it should be treated very much as is the guava for foods, either cooked for immediate use, preserved, or used in beverages.
MALAY APPLE AND JAVA PLUM
The Malay Apple (E. Malaccensis) is not unlike the Rose Apple, though larger; in colour the same: pink and white. The Java Plum (E. Jamboland) bears a sweet purple fruit about the size of Northern plums.
SURINAM OR CAYENNE CHERRY (Eugenia Michelt)
This cherry is both black- and red-fruited, the black variety being considered somewhat sweeter than the red.
29s
296 FRUIT RECIPES
Although not a cherry it may be treated almost identically the same in food preparations; in simple cookery or "put up."
The Barbadoes "Cherry" (Malphigia-glabra) resembles the Surinam, though not the same fruit. It is a little more tart but may be treated the same in food prepara- tion.
MARMALADE BOX or Genipa Americana.
This plant or small tree is not distantly related to the Coffee Plant and Cape Jessamine of the Madder Family, and bears a curious and delicious fruit called familiarly "Marmalade Box." It is much valued in Dutch Guiana, Brazil, and other tropical countries.
CHAPTER XXVI
THE POMEGRANATE
Punica Granatum
THE pomegranate was for very long considered, like the guava, a member of the Myrtle Family, now more commonly reckoned of the Lythracece or Loosestrife Family, and the guava is in reality its namesake since "Psidium" was derived from the Greek for " Psidion," or Pomegranate. " Punicum malum," by which the an- cients also designated the latter, indicates a Carthaginian residence and neither the fig, the grape nor olive was a greater favourite from its beauty, medicinal value, or as a food accessory (although the pomegranate has not the solid elements which would enable subsistence upon that alone as with the others just named) in those earlier centuries of the world.
The rind, flowers and root are all astringent. The rind has not infrequently been recommended in decoction or powdered form: valued as a gargle in sore throat, and also as of use in dysentery and intermittent fevers. Commercially it has served in tanning leather, as have the flowers as a dye. Each part seems to partake of the qualities of the others, as, for instance, the bark of the tree also has been noted as a dye and the flowers for medi- cine. The ancient Asiatics and Europeans, the negroes of the West Indies and Mohammedan physicians of India seem all to have recognised the value of the root bark as a vermifuge.
The seeds have demulcent qualities but are very ob- jectionable where the fruit is used as a food accessory (as
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298 FRUIT RECIPES
it may be in numerous ways): these must be removed by pressing the pomegranate through a sieve but the seeds must not be crushed in so doing for, broken, they are not pleasant in flavour.
RECIPES
POMEGRANATE ICE
Cut a dozen ripe pomegranates in half and remove seeds from the rind carefully. In the juice stir till dissolved one pound of sugar. Add gradually a pint of water; strain again and freeze.
POMEGRANATE SYRUP
Press and strain from seeds and cook down juice till thick, when add sugar (see Fruit Syrup: Introductory Recipes). The uncooked juice is considered very cooling in fevers and the syrup makes a delicious drink.
JELLY, JAM, ETC.
Use the tart varieties or those somewhat under-ripe and proceed as for other such preparations. The jelly resulting is particularly beautiful.
Pomegranate wine may be made with successful results and the fruit, seeds removed, served cooked, or fresh, with flavouring of orange blossom — or rose-water, or cocoanut and sugar.
CHAPTER XXVII
THE AVOCADO, "AGUACATE," OR ALLIGATOR PEAR (Per sea Gratissima: Lauracece)
THIS favourite West Indian and Southern American fruit in form resembles a pear somewhat, hence its popular name. It varies in size from that of a large pear, upward. Its seed occupies rather large space, but the melting pulp makes up for this in richness. It is called additionally, " Palto" (in Brazil) and " Midshipman's" or Vegetable Butter. Its wealth of oil is given out to best advantage of fruit and eater in salad form. The pulp is generally left adhering to the rind in serving.
A Cuban method of preparation is as follows: The fruit is halved before sending to the table, and cut across with a sharp knife into little grooves into which the dress- ing will run and thus permeate the flesh of the "pear." Then salt, red pepper, and possibly a little cinnamon are dusted over it. Next, two mustard-spoonfuls of prepared mustard, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of oil are poured into the halves, a piece of ice placed thereon, and the fruit set on ice that it may be thoroughly chilled before serving.
Another method, in vogue in Mexico, is to serve the fruit uncut, to be halved at the table. The pulp is then rubbed smooth as butter with a spoon, and lime or lemon juice added, with oil (one tablespoon of acid to three of oil) and a dash of pepper and salt. By some the addition of a little sugar is preferred. This is eaten with thin slices of bread.
299
300 FRUIT RECIPES
A third method of making salad with the avocado is to combine it with cress, a little chopped onion, radishes, cucumbers, lettuce, beets — in varying combinations, but always with the French dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, and red pepper.
Still another way is to use the smooth-rubbed pulp with a little oil (in place of the oil added to the yolk of egg for mayonnaise), and with pepper, salt, and lemon or lime juice to taste, serving with crisp lettuce.
The sliced fruit is sometimes used as a garnish for meat dishes and is also served with wine, sugar, and spices; may be peeled, sliced, and fried, or the mashed pulj> used for sandwiches with lemon juice, pepper, and salt.
CHAPTER XXVIII
THE CUSTARD APPLE, THE CHERIMOYA, SWEET AND SOUR SOP AND POND APPLE
Anonacea
WITH one exception (the wild, North American papaw) the members of the Anonacece or Custard Apple Family are tropical. (It must be remembered that the North American wild papaw and the tropical papaw are two entirely different fruits.) The fruit which bears the family name individually, the Custard Apple, or Bullock's Heart {A. reticulata), resembles distantly the wild Northern papaw. It is dark brown in colour; roundish in form, and is best in its natural state, thoroughly ripened, for eating, though it may be varied by serving with sugar and cream, with whipped eggs or by being frozen.
The Sweet Sop or Sugar Apple is the A nona squamosa. The sweet, mealy, aromatic pulp of this little fruit is sometimes cooked in simple form but it is most delicious in its natural state. (The seeds, powdered, will drive away fleas or other insects.) In appearance the Sugar Apple somewhat resembles tiny, crownless pineapples.
The Sour Sop (Anona muricata), is much larger than the Sweet Sop, weighing up to five pounds or more, and, while also aromatic, is somwhat tart and chiefly used in making cold drinks, ices, etc., as it is most refreshing in effect.
The Pond Apple, A. palustris or A. glabra, or laurifolia, sometimes mistakenly called "the Custard Apple," which name properly belongs to the Bullock's Heart, is not as great a favourite as the other members of the family
301
302 FRUIT RECIPES
though it is a fragrant, creamy fruit, "conical, with blunt point (not unlike a Bellflower apple in shape), and when ripe the large stem pulls out of the fruit, leaving a hole half-way through it." — H. E. Van Deman.
On the other hand, A. cherimolia, the Cherimoya, or Chiramoya, or Jamaica Apple, is the greatest favourite of the Anonas, most delicious, and even considered to outrank in general attractions every other known fruit save the Mangosteen. It varies in size and weight from those no larger than anorange to fifteen "pounders." Its juicy white pulp (containing small brown seeds) is eaten with a spoon, uncooked. It also makes a delicious frozen dainty.
CHAPTER XXIX
THE MANGOSTEEN— THE MAMMEE APPLE
Garcinia Mango stana — Mammea Americana
THESE two tropical fruits are related and both of them are extremely delicious, the Mangosteen often being declared to be ''finest fruit in the world/ ' In flavour it combines the delicate yet rich qualities of the pineapple, grape, peach, and strawberry, in form resembling somewhat the pomegranate, though the rind is more pulpy and the pulp itself more juicy and firm. It is at its best uncooked and being slightly laxative may be eaten freely. It may of course be frozen in various simple forms or used with gelatine.
There is an African variety quite similar {Mammea Africana).
The Mammee Apple (Mammea Americana) , sometimes called the South American or St. Domingo or wild apricot, is one of the standbys of tropical countries, being delicious in flavour and very useful in its adaptability as a food. Yellow in colour, it sometimes grows to the size of a grape-fruit, its double rind covering a dainty interior, although its outer covering and the seeds with their immediately surrounding pulp are bitter. The firm, aromatic, intermediate pulp, removed from rind and seeds, may be eaten with no special preparation or, un- cooked, with wine or cream and sugar. Dropped into boiling syrup, simmered, and served cold, it is delicious, or, pulp cooked down, sugar added in usual proportion, and simmered till thick, made into marmalade or jam.
303
304 FRUIT RECIPES
Like the guava, it is susceptible of many variations as a fresh food or preserve.
The Mountain Plum (Rheedia Edulis), is a relative of the mangosteen and bears, also, edible fruit, which are sub-acid and not unlike the ordinary plum of the tem- perate zones
CHAPTER XXX
SAPODILLA, MAMMEE SAPOTA, WHITE SAPOTA, STAR APPLE, COCOA PLUM AND EGG FRUIT (or "Ti-es")
THESE fruits come under the Sapotacea and are a very delicious group. The Sapodilla, or Sapodilla Plum, or "Dilly," (Achras sapota) at first sight invariably reminds one of a russet apple, though in flavour it is rather a combination of pear and peach and the soft pulp is coarse-grained. Its homely, rusty coat is a deceptive covering for it is an excellent fruit, uncooked or preserved, and may be treated very much as are peaches.
The Wild "Dilly" (Mimusops Sieberi) is a delicious, berry-like little fruit very much liked.
The Mammee Sapota or Lucuma mammosa, has rather unusual fruit which much varies in size — from that of a muskmelon down to that of a goose-egg — and the bright, reddish pulp, which has been compared to both pumpkin- pie and to muskmelon, is eaten uncooked, just as it is. It contains from one to three long seeds.
The White Sapota {Casimiroa edulis) is about the size of a peach and resembles it somewhat in flavour.
The Star Apple (Chrysophyllum cainito) varies in colour with variety, (being purple or green), described by Kingsley as "an evergreen peach, shedding from the under side of every leaf a golden light — call it not shade." It is larger, however, more like an apple in form and smoothness of skin. Its star-shaped core contains numerous brown seeds, rather large and flat. The flavour is somewhat peculiar,
30s
306 FRUIT RECIPES
but the apple may be varied in preparation. Its pulp mixed with orange juice is in Jamaica called "Matrimony."
The Cocoa Plum (Chrysobolanus icaco), with its pink and white fruit, was so named because the seeds were thought to resemble the cocoanut in form and the fruit the common plum.
The egg Fruit (Lucuma rivicoa), called in Key West "Ti-ess" or "Ti-es," is like a small Mammee Sapota and considered equally delicious.
CHAPTER XXXI
SIX OF THE MORE FAMILIAR TROPICAL AND SEMI-TROPICAL FRUITS
THE mango (Mangifera Indica) is one of the most delicious and one of the most maligned of tropical fruits, this state of affairs arising because of the unpleasant fibrous nature of several varieties and the unmistakable turpentine flavour of some of them which have unfortun- ately been put upon the market stringy and unripe. The best mangoes are almost as delicate as perfect pineapples and contain much food value. Not only is this fruit sus- ceptible of being cooked in numerous ways and eaten fresh, made into wine and various preserves, but starch and glucose are manufactured from the mango and when ani- mals of the lower world are given it as a staple food they flourish. The fruit is truly exceedingly juicy and it is sometimes said that it should be eaten only in one's bath- tub, in consequence, but where the mango grows in the greatest luxuriance and it is properly understood and used one may procure the regular mango-fork, a three pronged affair of which the middle prong is long and projecting, to be so imbedded that the fruit will not slip. Otherwise, the mango may be sliced before serving with wine, sugar and nutmeg. It may also be simply stewed. Before maturity it may be pickled or preserved, as well as at later stages. The kernels of the seeds are sometimes roasted and eaten like chestnuts.
The Tropical Pap aw (Carica papaya) is a very interest- ing and valuable tree as well as fruit. The form of the
3°7
3o8 FRUIT RECIPES
tree is more nearly that of a palm than anything else and the leaves resemble those of both the castor bean and fig, being curiously cut, large and graceful. They have a singular and valuable power in their action upon meat fibre in which quality the rind of the papaw shares: When the rind is rubbed over the toughest meat or the meat is wrapped for a few hours in the leaves the offending tough- ness entirely disappears. The fruit juice has remarkable stomachic qualities and Joseph Jefferson was a noted ex- ample of the claim that the tropical papaw is a cure for dyspepsia. In form the fruit is rather a cross between the banana and the muskmelon. It may be prepared for cookery, like the coarser vegetables of northern climates, before it quite reaches maturity; eaten uncooked, it must be thoroughly ripened to be acceptable to the palate. (This fruit is not in the least related to the Northern papaw.)
"Prickly Pear" is rather an indefinite term as there are over one hundred and fifty members of this, the Opuntia, of the Cactacea. The yellow-fruited O. Ficus-Indica and the O. tuna, which bears purple-red fruit, are perhaps best known and are very commonly used for eating uncooked or stewed with some other fruit, as lemon or pineapple, for flavouring, or preserves. The fruit, though sub-acid, has with many varieties not distinct enough a tone to render it extremely popular though it is very refreshing and cooling and the mucilaginous quality, which is not unpleasant, is considered healing. The purple-fruited prickly pear is often used for colouring in desserts and preserves.
The Granadilla and "May-Pop" are members of the Passifloracece, edible fruits of the passion vine. The May- pop, Passiflora incarnata, grows wild in the Southern States, but it is little known that it makes a beautiful and delicate jelly. It is a smaller edition of the Passiflora edulis and the Passiflora quadrangular is, two varieties of granadilla,
SIX FAMILIAR FRUITS 309
some of the latter of which grow to the size of a small melon. It was named, it is said, by the early Spaniards for the pomegranate, or " granada." It is often served uncooked with wine and sugar. Where jelly is made of this or the May-pop, the ripe fruit, halved across, should be covered with cold water, adding about one-third the quantity of well filled out but still immature, green-skinned fruit. Cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour, then add a little cold water and simmer again for an hour. Strain off the juice (which should by this time be well cooked down), and proceed as for ordinary fruit jelly. (See previous recipes.) Marmalade may be made by using the pulp of the fruit, putting through a colander or sieve, cook- ing down, and adding sugar. The resulting colour of jelly or marmalade is a pale yellow.
The famous Tamarind Tree (Tamarindus Indie a) has delicate leaves and pink and white flowers succeeded by edible pods which are preserved and used in confections, beverages, and medicinally. The acid of the fresh tamarind is very pleasing, and is a combination of citric, malic, formic, butyric, and tartaric acids, the tartness being given chiefly by the citric. The laxative and cooling qualities make the tamarind considered of much value in many cases of illness and certainly in the prevention of it. Tamarinds are usually shipped from the East or West Indies in some form of preserve though with a little more care it is said they might be had more abundantly in the market in fresh form, if the shell or pod were prevented from breaking, for with this natural protection they keep well for some months. With the pods removed the tama- rind may be preserved by pouring boiling syrup over the fruit or by placing in stone jars with alternate layers of sugar. They may be also candied and made into syrup for use in various summer drinks, though now known chiefly
3io FRUIT RECIPES
as a valued drink in fevers. The tamarind perhaps may be likened to the lemon and also somewhat to the grape. It has a good percentage of bitartrate of potassa, its other components (besides the acids) being gum, pectin, water, and pulpy matter.
The Bread Fruit Tree (Artocarpus incisa, or A. com- munis) bears for eight months in succession its generous balls of pulp which are so useful as a food to so many tropical peoples. It is prepared in various ways for eating, one of the most common methods being to bake it with a bit of fat meat in the centre of the fruit. It tastes something like potato as well as somewhat resembling bread.
CHAPTER XXXII SOME OF THE LESS KNOWN FRUITS
THE Otaheite and Spanish or Barbadoes goose- berries are " gooseberries' ' by courtesy only, al- though the resemblance is not strained. The former, Cicca disticha (C. racemosa), is a tree whose berries are white and waxy, growing in clusters, the tree, leaves, and berries all being very ornamental. The " gooseberries1' are extremely acid and very acceptable at their season of ripening: the height of summer. The Spanish, or Barbadoes Gooseberry, the Pereskia aculeata, or Lemon Vine, is a climbing cactus with exquisite blossoms which resemble miniature pond lilies, and fruit of pleasing tartness. (The blossoms, however, give out an unpleasant musty odour.) The berries may be used in many different ways, bringing out their refreshing flavour in natural state or for culinary purposes.
The Spanish Lime, or Ginep (Melicocca bijuga) has an edible fruit resembling the Northern plum in appearance but with rather a grape flavour, both pulp and seeds being edible, the latter sometimes roasted and eaten like chest- nuts.
The Sea Grape or Shore Grape of the West Indies, the Coccoloba uvifera, is not a vine but a broad-leaved, bushy tree or plant with purple-red fruits of agreeable flavour, susceptible of varied preparation.
The Ceriman or Monstera deliciosa is sometimes called the " false bread-fruit," but its distinction should rest entirely upon itself for the tall, spreading plant with large,
3"
312 FRUIT RECIPES
curiously shaped leaves bears a most delicious fruit, cone- like in form, whose flavour is singularly delightful, a com- bination of pineapple and banana both as to taste and pulp- consistency, though far more aromatic than either. The light, husky skin is not unlike the pineapple in its markings, though very tender and readily removed.
The Kai Apple (Aberia Cafjra), from Natal, is a large, edible fruit which makes an excellent preserve.
The Carissa carandas or "Caraunda," the Carissa arduina and C. acuminata, are also Natal fruits, known variously as " Amatungulu" and " Amatungula" and "Maritzgula." The Carissa arduina resembles both a cherry and raspberry, having a thin, deep-red skin, and tiny seeds (larger than the fruits it resembles) , and makes a delicious preserve though equally good uncooked.
The "Strawberry Pear" {Cereus triangularis) is a rela- tive of the Night-blooming Cereus, and its "scaly buds," called " Godochro" in Jamaica, are used in making the tooth- some "pepper-pot" of the West Indies. The "pear" itself is pleasing but not more pronounced than many other fruits of the cacti.
The "Melon Pear" or Pepino, sometimes called also "Melon Shrub" is one of the edible Solanums, described by Mr. Grelech of Los Angeles, who introduced it there from Guatemala, as resembling "in many respects the Chili pepper vine, the tomato, or the nightshade. . . . The fruit is of the size of a hen or goose egg or even larger, and very much of the same shape. . . . The interior of the fruit is a solid pulp similar to that of a pear, also of a pale yellow colour and of a taste resembling that of a fine musk- melon, but which has besides a charming acid, so whole- some and delicious that when the fruit is partaken of on a very warm day it allays the thirst for several hours." It is in colour lemon, streaked with violet.
SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 313
The "Tree Tomato" of Jamaica is another Solatium (S. betaceum), which is grown over much of the world for its purplish-red fruit which, uncooked, and fully ripe is not un- like a gooseberry, or, stewed with sugar, an apricot, though more tart. It is used as is the tomato and is about the same size though oval rather than rounding.
The Cashew Apple or Nut (Anacardium occidentale) bears its seeds outside of the pulp and both parts are used as food, the nut being roasted like chestnuts or used for flavouring, in the making of chocolate or wine. It is said, however, that care must be taken in roasting the kernel, as from its thin covering a peculiar vapour rises which is apt to affect the skin. The pulp or stalk of the fruit proper is pleasantly tart and varies in both colour and size radically.
The red fruit of the Akee Tree, the Cupania sapida, is not considered quite safe to eat uncooked, but cooked, stewed, or otherwise prepared, is both palatable and wholesome.
The Mangrove, or Rhizophora, one of the hour-glass-like guardians of the seashore in the tropics, has an edible fruit, sweet and pleasant in flavour, which may be varied in preparation; and the juice, fermented, makes an acceptable light wine.
The Carambola (Averrhoa carambola) is also sometimes called the Coromandel Gooseberry in India. It is curiously formed, with five distinct ribs or angles; has a thin, smooth coat, generally yellow in colour, and is about the size of a duck-egg. The flavour ranges from sweet to acid so that it is used variously, for desserts or preserves, cooked or not as rendered necessary by its flavour.
The Averrhoa Bilimbi, or Blimbling, is a similar fruit but generally more acid. The leaves of both resemble those of the sensitive plant in irritability.
3i4 FRUIT RECIPES
The Emblic Myrobolan (Phyllanthus emblicd) is a beauti- ful plant with delicate leaves, a fruit similar to the plum and equally edible in simple or preserved form.
The Durian or Durion (Durio zibethinus: Nat. Ord. Sterculiacece) , is a remarkable Malay fruit. The tree is tall and spreading, the fruit, rounding yet oval, "the size of a man's head," is light green and covered with spines. It takes nine months to ripen and the odour from it is very offensive to Europeans till accustomed to it. The creamy pulp, somewhat like a strawberry in flavour, is delicious and contains large seeds, edible when roasted.
The Nephelium longanum, or Longan Tree, is hand- somely leaved and clustered with fruit, the latter having one large seed in the centre with sweet, translucent pulp surrounding it. It is a near relative of the famous Chinese nut-tree, the Nephelium Litchi (or Leechee), which loses its pink colour (of pulp) when dried and so reaches other countries in brown, shrivelled form.
The Strawberry Tree {Arbutus unedo) is semi-tropical but will grow as far north as Ireland. The tree, flowers and berries are all very ornamental and from the edible fruit both sugar and a fermented liquor are made. In Italy and Spain the berries are much liked.
The Otaheite Apple, or Spondias dulcis, is a fruit- bearing tree whose "apples" are in colour and size like small oranges and in flavour resemble the pineapple.
The Otaheite Plum, or "Jamaica" or "Hog-Plum" (Spondias lutea or S. cytheria) is related to the Otaheite Apple but its fruit more nearly resembles the larger Loquat ("Japan Plum").
The Ximenia Americana is also often called the "Hog- Plum" and is also an edible, though a smaller fruit.
The Adansonia digitata or "Baobob," known best in Africa, is commonly called "Monkey's Bread." The oval
SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 315
fruit is nearly a foot long. The pulp, which is " a little fari- naceous, mixed with fibres," is tart and wholesome and so distinctly refrigerant that it is often given fever patients.
The Bengal Quince, Elephant Apple, or Apple-boom (Aegle marmelos) is related to the Citrus fruits and its leaves and manner of growth resemble different Citrus varieties.
The "Bacury" of Brazil (Platonia insignis) has a rather tart pulp containing a few seeds, the whole covered by a hard, smooth rind or shell of a gay yellow hue. The most costly preserves of some parts of Brazil are made, it is said, from this cocoanut-like "Bacury."
The Chilian Myrtle (Myrtus ugiri) has a soft, juicy, red- brown fruit, in appearance rather like a "large, black currant." It is particularly used, uncooked, as a simple dessert fruit or in cooling drinks and is delightfully aromatic.
The Capuassa (Deltonia luctea) is a Brazilian fruit tree with extremely heavy foliage and a large-seeded, yellow- meated fruit covered with a hard shell of rough, somewhat furry appearance. Rand says, in describing the strained, crushed, and diluted pulp of this wonderfully fragrant fruit, that the resulting drink, called by courtesy wine, "is worth a voyage across the Atlantic."
The Peach "Palm" {Guielma speciosa) bears a fruit somewhat resembling the apricot, but triangular in form rather than oval. It is used more like a potato, or the cassava, or bread fruit, resembling also somewhat the Spanish chestnut when roasted or otherwise prepared, its ground meal often being made into bread or cakes for baking.
The Madagascar Voa-vanga (Vangueria edulis) pro- duces edible berries nearly an inch in diameter.
316 FRUIT RECIPES
The Antidesma bunins, a fruit of Java, produces a berry which is red before reaching maturity, when it turns black. It is rather tart and excellent for preserves.
A Japanese tree, the Hovenia dulcis, bears a sweet, fleshy and aromatic little fruit of fine flavour.
The Tropical Almond, Terminalia catappa, is not an almond save in name, though it has oily, edible seeds which are used like nuts.
The Jujube (Zizyphus) , which has given its name to the famous confection, Jujube Paste (which latter, however, is usually made merely of gum-arabic and sugar and is quite innocent of the Jujube ingredient) has a number of in- teresting members, among them the true Lotus. The fruit of the common Jujube (/. vulgaris) is not unlike an olive or a date and is ordinarily red, though sometimes yellow, in colour. It is dried and sold as a sweetmeat, so delicious is it in flavour. Also, it is much eaten uncooked, as a dessert-fruit in some places. The Jujube contains a large amount of nourishment and is considered of value medic- inally for its demulcent properties.
The Sorrel or Roselle Berry (Jamaica Sorrel: Hibiscus subdariffa) is a rival of the currant and mulberry as a jelly-maker. With its juice, however, use only about three-fourths pound of sugar to a pint of juice. The calyxes of the sorrel may be preserved and the young leaves cooked as "greens." The colour of the jelly is apt to fade in strong light so the glasses should be wrapped in newspaper and placed in a cool, dark spot.
The Spanish Bayonet of the South, belonging to the Yuccas (Yucca baccata) has a magnificent flower stalk rising from the centre of its tall, spiny column, which is succeeded by an equally imposing cluster of curious fruit with thick, tender rind and seeds. The juicy pulp may be prepared for cooking in similar fashion to apples, to which it bears a not distant resemblance in flavour.
SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 317
There are two plants which deserve mention among the fruits from the value to mankind of their roots: the Caladium esculenta, and the Zingiber officinalis, or Ginger Plant.
The Caladium esculenta is one of the most commonly cultivated of all Caladiums but its leaves literally and figuratively overshadow its roots, and the riches of the latter remain undreamed of. It is a very starchy food, considered of more value than Irish potatoes but may be prepared in cookery in much the same way. The Cocco Root, or "Eddoes," of the genus Colocasia, of the same natural order {Ar ace ace) as the Caladiums, is much culti- vated for the food value of numerous varieties in the South Seas, in the Himalayas, and in tropical America. Some of the Cocco varieties are a little acrid before cooking and in the raw state rather stimulating. The Caladium, how- ever, is mild.
The virtues and delights of the Ginger Root are as famil- iar as the alphabet whether considered medicinally or culinarily. It is supposed to have been imported originally from India to Africa and the West Indies. The roots are generally dug when about a year old, cleaned and scalded, then dried and shipped, though the "green" ginger is also an article of commerce. The favourite form of ginger is of course, the preserve or confection, and for either one the young, tender roots must be used. (It may be mentioned that the roots of the "Shell Lily, the " Alpinia nutans may be preserved or candied with similar results.) The following are old recipes which may be successfully used with Ginger Root.
PRESERVED GINGER
Scrape the young, green roots and weigh them, allowing equal weight of sugar. Boil each separately, the ginger
3i8 FRUIT RECIPES
until tender enough to be pierced with a wooden splinter, and the sugar with water and cream of tartar until it forms a syrup. (Allow a half pint of water and a half teaspoon of cream of tartar to each pound of sugar.) Skim the syrup well; place the ginger in it and when it has boiled up well place in jars and seal.
This may be varied in flavour by adding lemon, orange, or other fruit as flavouring. To every three pounds of ginger allow at least the juice of one lemon and rind, and for each pint additional of lemon juice add one pound of sugar.
CANDIED GINGER
See Candied Cherries and the Kumquat.
GINGER VINEGAR
For each quart of strong vinegar allow two ounces of crushed white ginger and let stand two months, when strain, bottle, and cork well.
GINGER WINE No. i (Old Recipe)
Allow twelve ounces of bruised ginger to nine gallons of soft water and boil till well-flavoured, when add eighteen pounds of sugar. Let dissolve and partially cool when add a little hop-yeast. When clear rack off and bottle at once.
GINGER WINE No. 2 (Old Recipe)
To ten gallons of soft water add fifteen pounds of " loaf- sugar clarified with the whites of six eggs," and one-half pound of sliced and bruised white ginger. When this has boiled one-half hour stir into it the thin-peeled yellow rind of a dozen lemons and let stand till cool. Then add a gill of yeast, first, however, reserving two quarts of the mixture in which must be dissolved two ounces of
SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 319
isinglass. When dissolved mix with the other liquor; stir well and let stand twelve hours, when the bung should be closed. Fettle in three weeks and in four months it will be ready tu use.
GINGER EXTRACT.
Cover two ounces of bruised ginger root with one-half pint of pure grain alcohol. Let stand till the spirit is impregnated thoroughly with the spice when strain and bottle for flavouring.
REMINGTON'S ANALYSES OF FRUITS
Kinds of Fruit
Apple
Apricot
Blackberry "]
Rubus Villosus I
" Canadensis f
" Trivialis J
Bilberry (Vac. Resinosum). .
Cherry
Currant (red)
Gooseberry
Peach
Pear
Pineapple
Plum
Raspberry {Rubus Idoeus) . . .
Strawberry
|
Sugar |
Free Acid |
|
Per cent. |
Per cent. |
|
7 to IO |
i to 1 |
|
I tO 2 |
i to 1 |
|
4 |
1 |
|
5 |
1 |
|
8 to 13 |
1 |
|
4 to 7 |
1 to 2 |
|
6 to 8 |
I* |
|
ii |
1 |
|
7 |
7 |
|
2 |
1 |
|
1 to 2 |
i to 1 |
|
3 to 5 |
1 |
|
3 to 7 |
1 |
Pectinous Substances Per cent.
Albu- minous Substances Per cent.
5 le
1 to ij
I
J to 3
*
i tO 2
6 3 3
2 to 11
2 to 5
5 J to :
1 i to 3 J to J
I
i
1
3
i
1
i
ANALYSES OF FRUITS: U. S. DISPENSATORY: WOOD & BACHE
Barberry:
Per cent.
Malic acid 5.92
Sugar 467
Gum 6.61
Water 67.16
Salts, Potassa, and
Lime 06
Mulberry: (Analysis of H. Van Heese) :
Per cent. Glucose and uncrys-
tallisable sugar 9.19
Free acid (supposed to be malic and tar- taric) 1.86
Ash 0.57
Album, matter 0.39
Pectic " ; fats,
salts, and gum 2.03
Water 84.71
Insoluble matter as seeds, pectose, cellu- lose, etc 1.25
Fig: (Grape-sugar, gum, and mucilage. Koenig's Anal.)
Per cent.
Water 31.20
Nitrogenous material. 4.01
Sugar 49.79
Ash 2.86
Reckoned on the weight of absolutely dry mater al the ni- trogenous material: 5-7 S%> sugar: 72.56%.
Prune: Koenig's Analysis. (Contains uncrystallisable sugar, malic acid, and muci- laginous matter).
Per cent.
Water 29.30
Nitrogenous mat 2.50
Fat 53
Sugar 44-35
Other nit. free mat.. 17.89
Free acid 2.72
Woody fibre (not in- cluding stone) 1.48
Ash 1.38
320
FRESH FRUITS. AVERAGE COMPOSITION*
Northern
Food Materials
Apple- '.)•••• Grapes ...
Muskmeions
Watermelon
Pears
N. Persimmons. . (edible portion)
Raspberries
Strawberries
Dried:
Apples
Apricots
Raisins
Refuse Per Ct.
25- 25- 5°- 59-4 10. o
Water Per Ct,
633 58.0 44.8
37-5
76.0 66.1
85.8 85.9
28.1 29.4 131
Protein Per Ct.
Fat Per Ct
Car- bohy- drates Per Ct,
.6
2.2 1.0 30
10.8 14.4 4-6 2.7 12.7 3i-5
12.6
7.0
66.1 62.5 68.5
Ash Per Ct.
•4 •9
.6 .6
2.4 31
Fuel value
per pound
190
295 80
50 230
550
220 I50
1185 II25 1265
* Extracts from Table 1, Farmers' Bulletin, No. 142. Principles of Nutrition and Nutritive Value of Food. (Rev. Ed.) By W. O. Atwater, Ph. D., Special Agent in Charge of Nutrition Investigations Office of Experiment Station.
Tropical and Semi-tropical Fruits
Food Materials
Banana
Orange
Guava f
Jap. Persimmon.
Lemon
Cocoanut
Prep.... Milkf.. Alligator pear
(edible portion)^ Surinam cherry J Roselle : {
Calyx
Pod
Ex. from calyx..
Ex. from pods. . Dried Fruits:
Dates
Figs
Refuse Water
Per Ct
35-°o 27.00
J3-2
30.00 48.O08
10.00
Per Ct
48.9 63-4 69-43 66.1 62.5 7.2 35 92.7
81. 1 85.0
86.5 84.0 91.2 93-7
138 18.8
Protein Fat
Per Ct
Per Ct
•4 .1
•5
•7
•5
25-9
574
1-5
10.2
•3
2.5 •3
Car- bohy- drates Per Ct.
143
8.5
14.41
3I-50
5-9
143
31-5
4-6
6.8 al3-9
10.3 12.2 by. 2 C4.2
70.6 742
Ash Per Ct
4
34
9
4
9
3
8
9 7
8 1 7 7
1.2
2.4
Fuel
value
per
pound
260 I50 321 550 125 1295 2865
342
1275 128c
f Guava and Cocoanut Milk data from M. E. Jaffa's report. Bulletin No. 13a.
Guava — Additional: Crude Fibre, 1.14 per cent. % From Farmers' Bulletin, No. 169.
a Including 10 per cent, invert sugar, 10.1 per cent, total sugar. b Including 1.6 per cent, sugar. c Including 1 per cent, sugar.
321
FOOD MATERIALS. (AVERAGE EDIBLE PORTION)* Composition Determined
Fresh Fruits
Apples
Bananas
Grapes
Oranges
Pears
Jap. Persimmon.
Olives
Scarlet Haws
Watermelon
Raisins
Prunes
Canned Peaches. Cocoanuts
Refuse Per Ct.
Water PerCt.
86.21 77*5
85.95 86.49 80.92 80.21 67.
75-83 92.17
28.47 29.14
86.45 19.17
Pro- tein
NX625
Per Ct.
•50 I.60
.70 I.26
.99 I.36 2.48 I.98
•87 4.55 2-54
•55 5-25
Fat PerCt.
.27 .24
•33
.18
•47
•57
17.07
.65 .10 .61 •59
•51
Carbohydrates
Sugar Starch PerCt.
II.87 19.68 I 2.20 10.84
15-73 15.13
5-67
18.57
6.41
62.57
63-37
12.20
9.67
Crude Fibre PerCt.
.88 •52 .48 .60
L47 2.08
3-35
2.13
.18
.66
1.65
•37
13-77
Ash PerCt.
ill?
Calories
.257
•424 .271 .250 .360 .384 .897 .468 .148
1-336 1.292
•247 2.712
Composition Assumed
Fresh Fruits
Canteloupe
Pomegranates. . . Apricots (dried). .
Figs
Dates
Strawberries
Raspberries, red. Apple Sauce
Refuse Per Ct
Water Per Ct.
89-5 76.8 29.4 22.7 38.2 90.4 86.4 61. 1
Pro- tein Nx6 25
Per Ct.
.6 1-5 4-7 4-3 2-9 1.0
i-5
Fat
Per Ct.
1.6 i.oo
•7
•3
.6
.8
Carbohydrates
Sugar Starch PerCt.
7.2 16.8 62.5 62.5
55-0
6.0
II. 7
37-2
Crude Fibre PerCt.
2.1 2.7
8.5 2.2
i-4
Ash Per Ct.
o.§§ Calories
.408 1. 014 2.844 3.098 2-494 •397 •540 1.609
* Composition of Food Materials Used in Dietary Studies and Digestion Exper- iments (Table ia). M. E. Jaffa, M. S., Cal., Agr. Experimental Station, 1901-3.
322
Table 56. — Comparative cost of total nutrients and energy in dif- ferent food materials at average prices
Kind of Food Material
Fresh Fruits:
Apples
Apricots
Bananas
Canteloupes
Cherries
Figs
Grapes
Lemons
Limes
Nectarines
Oranges
Olives
Peaches
Pears
Persimmons
Pineapples
Plums
Prunes
Pomelos
Pomegranates
Watermelons
Dried Fruits:
Apples
Apricots
Citron
Currants
Dates
Figs
Pears
Peaches
Prunes
Raisins
Jams, Preserves, etc.
Apple
Apple sauce
Apricot sauce
Currant
Cherry
Currant and raspberry
Blackberry
Cts.
ij
3
7
3*
4
7
4
7
8
6 10
4
3 10
4
3 , 3 5 10
ij
12 10
3 10 10
*5
12
J5 10 10
16 16 16 16 16 16 16
<+* o
Dollars
5.00 3.00
8-75
11.67
4-45
4.67
4.00
10.00
3-57
*3-33
10.00
4.90
8.00
6.00
9.62
9.76
3-33 4.29
^-33 6.66
7-50
7-5o 2.13 6.00
417 5.26
3-5° 4.28 3.06 5-56 4.35
91-43 53-33 8.42 16.00 32.00 26.66
Cents
7-30
11. 8
23-3 38.9 11. 6 18.4
11. 9
48.3 17.2 28.1
35-2 13.6
25-1 «-5
34-3 3-8 8.1
9.a
28.4 21.7
25.0
8.9
7-75 1.97 6.7 6.9 10.2
7-4 10.8
8.4 6.9
13.8 40.5 16.0 11. 9 12. 1 12.8 26.2
Amounts fo 10 Cents
>« *£
Lbs. 6.67 3-33 J-43 2.86 2.50
J-43
2.50
i-43 4.00
i-25 1.67 1. 00 2.50
3-33 1. 00 2.50 3-33 3-33 2.00 1. 00 6.67
.83 1. 00
3-33 1. 00 1. 00
.67
•83
.67
1. 00 1. 00
.62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62
Lbs.
.02
•03 .01 .01 .02 .02
03
.01
•°3 .01 .01 .02 .01 .02 .01 .01
•03 .02 .01 .02 .01
.01
.05 .02 .02 .02
•03 .02
•°3 .02 .02
Fat
Lbs. .02
•03 .02
.14
.01
.02 .01
.05 .02
.03
.04
•03
Lbs.
•72 .42
■13
.40 .27
.36 .08 .24 .19 .14 .07 .19 .42 •13 •13 .64 .58
•17
.20 .18
•55
.63
2.60
•74
7i
•5° .61
•45 .62 .69
■39 .12
•3° •44 •44 .42
•43
Cal- ories
1,467
849 429
257 862
543 837 207 580 356 284
737 398 866 292 263 1,232 1,115 352 460 400
1,121 1,290 5.o78 i,495 i,45o
,357
926
[,190
^,445
727 245 620 836 823 781 3 78
323
TABLE 56.— Continued
Kind of Food Material
Jams, Preserves, etc.
Damson
Gooseberry
Grape
Figs (stewed)
Orange marmalade
Pineapple marmalade
Prune sauce
Peach jam
Pear jam
Pineapple
Plum
Quince
Strawberry
Tomato jam
Raspberry
Jellies:
Apple
Barberry
Blackberry
Cherry, first quality..
Crab apple
Currant
Grape
Guava
Huckleberry
Pineapple
Peach
Plum
Orange
Pear
Quince
Raspberry
Strawberry
Canned Fruits:
Apricots
Cherries
Pears
Peaches
Pineapple
Juices:
Apple (fall pippin) . . .
Blackberry
Cts.
16
16 16 16 [6
16 16 16
16 16 16 16 16 16 16
16 16
16 16
16 16 16 16 16 [6 16 16 [6 [6 16 it 16
16 16 16 16
1 6
20
2C
3£
to o y
Dollars
32.00 32.00 40.00
13-33 26.66
53-33 32.00 32.00
53-33 40.00 22.85
53-33 26.67
14. 56
22.85
53-33 32.00 66.67 14.56 40.00 40.00 53-33 53-33
228.57 40.00 80.00 32.00 80.00
100.00 80.00 40.00 53-33
17.78 14. 56 53-33 20.00 29.10
3704 57-14
Amounts for 10 Cents
w-a
Cents.
I3-0 13.2 12.7 20.4 10. 1 12.7 37-2 13.0 14. 1 12.7 12.6 12.8 12.0 138 12.3
12.2
13-5 14.6 11. o 131 *3-4 131 10.5 13-8 130 13.2
13-7 io-3 12.6
J3-3 J3-3 13-5
47-i 38.9 45-5 53-2 28.6
140.8
133-3
Lbs.
.62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62
.62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 .62 ,6a
,6a ,6a .6a 6a
.62
•5° •50
Lbs.
Fat
L&5.
324
TABLE 56.— Continued
Kind of Food Material
Juices:
Crab apple
Grape (Ives seedling)..
Orange (Florida navel)
Peach
Pear (Bartlett)
Pineapple
Plum (Damson)
Plum (wild fox)
Mixed Fruit
Berries:
Blackberries
Cranberries
Currants
Gooseberries
Huckleberries
Loganberries
Raspberries
Strawberries
Whortleberries
Nuts:
Almonds
Beechnuts
Brazil nuts
Butternuts
Chestnuts
Cocoanuts
Filberts
Hickory nuts
Lichi nuts
Peanuts
Pecans
Pine nuts
Pignolias
Pistachios
Walnuts
Butters:
Apple
Peanut
Cts.
20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20 20
7 5 5 5 4 7 7 7
*5 10
15
1S
8
5 IS
9 35
7 *5
8
25 20
15
5
20
2«
Dollars
250.00
83-33 34-48 90.91
222.22 54.05 46.51
142.85
133-33
5-38 I2.50
3-33 10.64 6.67 6.42 7.00 7.78 5-7i
1.30 •77 x-74 3-95 i-54 1.72 2.00
i-55 20.60
.36 2.94 1.27
•75
.90
3.06
10.00 .68
Cents
200.0 128.2 181. 8 126.6 96.2
83.3
88.5
101.0
172.4
25-9 23.3 18.9 19.2 11. 6 26.5 27.4 40.0 10.3
9° 5-5 9
349 8-5 3-5 95 7
40.0
3-6 8.1 5-4 8.8 6.7 17.0
Amounts for 10 Cents
11
Lbs.
•50 •50 .50 .50 •50 •50 .50 •5o ■50
i-43 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.50 i-43 r-43 i-43 2.50
.67 1. 00
.67 .67
i-25
2.00
.67
I. II
•29
r-43 .67
•25 .40
•5o .67
Lbs.
0.02 .01
•03 .01 .02 .02 .01 .01 .02
.08
.13 .06
•03 .07 .06
•05
.06
5.6 2.00 7-i -5Q
Fat
Lbs.
O.OI 01
.01
.08
.20
•34 23 .06 .06
•5i .21 .28
Lbs.
0.03 .04
03
.04 .06 .06 .06 •°5 •03
.16 .20 .26 .27 .42 .18 .18 .10 •34
.06 .08
.02
.28
•03 .08 .14 .11 •03
.01 •15
•42
.25 •35 .20
•27 .12
• 44
•29 .04 .04
•13 .27
.05 .11
.03 .08 .02
•94
.09
Calrs.
50 78 55 79 104 120
"3
99
58
386 43° 530 520 862 377 365 250
975
1,112 1,820 1,109 288 1,181 2,826
i.°55 1,404
254 2,767 1.237 1,845 1,138 1,498
593
1,780 1,412
From "Further Investigations Among Fruitarians" at the California Agricultural Experiment Station, 1 901- 190 2. — M. E. Jaffa, M. S., Assistant Professor of Agriculture, University of Cali- fornia. Bulletin No. 132, U. S. Department of Agriculture.
325
INDEX
Aguacate, 299-300.
To prepare, 299-300. Akee Tree, 313. Alligator Pear, 299-300. Almond, Tropical, 316. Amatungula, 312. Antidesma Buntus, 316. Apple, The, 23-48. Amber, 36.
Baked with Honey, 28. With Meats, 30. With Nuts, 28. Baked, and Ice-cream, 48. Batter Pudding, 34. Brandy, 47. Brown Betty, 35. Butter, 41. Cake, 35.
Dried Apple Fruit, 37. Filling, 38. German, 36-37. Cashew or Kashew, 313. Catsup, 41.
Champagne (Crabapple), 47 Charlotte, 39. Cheese, 38. Chutney, 40. Cider, 45.
Apple Sauce, 27. Boiled, 45. Egg-nog, 46.
Jelly, 39-
Preserves, 43.
Sweet, To Keep, 45.
Vinegar, 46. Coddled, 40. Crabapple Champagne, 47.
Jelly, 42.
Marmalade, 44.
Preserves, 43. Croquettes, 29. Currant and Apple Jelly, 42.
Apple, Custard, 301.
Apple Pie, 31.
Frozen Apple, 48. Dates and Apples, 27. Dried, 46.
Fruit Cake, 39. Dumplings, Baked, 33.
Boiled, 33.
In Cups, 33.
Slices, ^ 4. Egg-nog (Cider), 46. Elephant, 315. Filling for Cake, 38.
Tarts, 38. Flip Flaps or Puffs, 32. Float, 38. Fried, 30. Fritters, 30. Frozen Apple Custard, 48.
Snow, 48. Fruit Cake (Dried Apple),
37-. Gelatine, 38. German Cake, 36-37. Grape Juice Preserve, 43. Honey, Baked with, 28. Ice-cream and Baked
Apples, 48. Ices, Water, 48. Indian Pudding, 35. Jam, 45- Jamaica, 302. Jellied, 38. Cider, 39. Crabapple, 42.
and Currant, 42. and Quince, 42. Jelly, Apple, 41-42. Jonathan, 35. Kai, 312.
Kashew or Cashew, 313. Kuchen, Apfel, 36-37.
327
328
INDEX
Apple, Lemon and Apple Mar- malade, 44. Love, 147. Malay, 295. Mammee, 303. Marmalade, 44
and Currant, 44.
and Lemon, 44.
and Quince, 44.
Crabapple, 44. May, 146. Meringued, 39. Nuts with Baked Apples, 28. Old-fashioned Sauce, 27. Omelet, 29. Otaheite, 314. To Pack, 46. Pancakes, 32. Pickle, Sweet, 41. Pie, 30.
Custard, 31. Pine, 238-249. Pomona Wine, 47. Pond, 301. Pone, 35. Preserves, Plain, 43.
Cider, 43.
Crabapple, 43.
Grape Juice, 43.
and Quinces, 43. Prunes and, 27. Pudding, Batter, 34.
Brown Betty, 35.
Indian Apple, 35. Puffs or Flip Flaps, 32. Quinces (and Apples), 42-
44. Raisins (and), 27. Roly Poly, 32. Rose, 295. Salads, 29. Sandwiches, 29. Sauce (Cider), 27.
Old-fashioned, 27. Slump, 34. Snow, 37.
Balls, 35.
Frozen, 48. Solid, 37. Soup, 28. Spiced, 40.
Apple, Star, 305.
^Stewed with Dates, 27. Sugar, 301. Sweet Pickles, 41. Tart, 31.
English, 31.
Filling, 38.
Scotch, 32. Tea, 47. Turnovers, 32. Vinegar, 46. Water, 46.
Ice, 42. Wine, Pomona, 47. Apricot, The, 66-80. So. American, 303. St. Domingo or Wild, 247-
303- Avocado, 299-300.
Bacury, 315. Banana, The, 250-259. Baked, 252. Beer, 258. Blanc Mange, 255. Cake Cup, 254.
Layer, 254.
and Nut Loaf, 254. Dried, 259. Flour, 259. Fried, 253. Fritters (Crushed), 254.
Halved, 253. Frozen, 257. Frozen Custard, 257. Ice, 257.
Cream, 257. Jelly, 258. Layer Cake, 254. Loaf Cake, 254.
and Nut, 254. Marmalade, 257. Mubisi, 258. Muenge, 258. Nut Strips, 255. Omelet, 252. Pancakes, 254. Pie, 254. Pudding, 256.
With Rice, 253. Salad, 252.
INDEX
3*9
Banana, Sandwiches, 259. Sherbet, 257. Shortcake, 255. Simplest Dessert, 255. Souffles, Little, 256. Soup (Iced), 252. Stewed, 253. Toast, 256. Whipped, 256. Wine, 258. Baobab, 314. Barbadoes Cherry, 295. Barberry (See Berries). Bayonet, Spanish, 317. Bengal Quince, 315. Bergamot, 223-226. Berries, 136-184.
Barberries, 146, 172, 173. Dried, 172. Jam, 172. Preserved (Cold), 172.
Cooked, 172. Syrup of, 173. Bilberries and Blueberries, (See Whortleberries), 140, 163, 165. Blackberries, 138, 156-160. Brandy, 158. Catsup, 157. Charlotte Russe, 159. Cordial, 158. To Dry, 160. Farina, 159. General Recipes, 160. Jam, 156.
Jelly, 157. Muffins, 159. Pickled, 157. Pie, 159. Preserved, 157. Pudding (Steamed),
01 I59 Slump, 159.
Vinegar, 157.
Wine, 157, 158.
Blueberries and Bilberries,
(See Whortleberries), 140,
163-165.
Boxberry or Checkerberry,
147. Buffalo Berry, i;o.
Berries, Checkerberry, 147. Cherry, Winter, 147. Cranberry, 140, 165-167. Bombe, 167. Compote, 166. Cream Frozen, 167. Jelly, 166. Pudding, 167. Rolv Poly (in General
Directions), 167. Sauce, 165. Snow, 166. Sponge, 166. Syrup, 166. Tart, 166.
Uncooked, To Keep, 167. Currant, 144, 173-179.
Bar-le-Duc (Jam), 174. Brandy, 178. Catsup, 175. Colouring, 179. Cup, 176. Dried, 178. Ice, 176. Ice Cream, 176. Jam (Bar-le-Duc), 174. Black, 175. Raisin, 175. Red, 174-179. White, with Goose- berries, 180. Jelly (Black), 173. Red, 173. White, 173. Pudding (Red), 176. Punch, 178. Salads (In), 179. Sherbet, 176. Shortcake, 175. Shrub, 176. Spiced, 175. Uncooked, 179. Vinegar, 178. Wines, 177. Elderberries, 142-144, 169- 172.
Ale Flavoured with, 171 Blossom Wine, 170. Brandy, 170. Catsup, 171.
33o
INDEX
Berries, Elderberries, Dried, 172. Flower Water, 172. Jelly, 171. junket, 171. Ointment, 172. Pancakes, 171. Rob of, 169. Syrup of, 169. Tarts, 171. Water (Elder Flower),
172. Wine, 170.
(Spiced), 170. Wine Blossom, 170. Gooseberries, 144, 179, 184. Barbadoes, 311. Catsup, 182. Champagne, 183. Chips, 182. Chutney, 182. Coromandel, 313. Fool, 181-182. Jam, 179.
and Red Currant,
179. and White Cur- rant, 180. Jelly, 179. Otaheite, 311. Peruvian, 147. Pie, 180.
Preserved Whole, 180. Pudding, Boiled, 181. Sauce for Lamb, 182. Spanish, 311. Tart, 1 80-181. Vinegar, 183. Water Ice, 184. Wine, 183. Hackberry, 148. Haws, 148.
Huckleberries (See Whor- tleberries) . June Berry, 149. Logan Berry, 169. Love Apple, 147. May Apple, 146. Mountain Ash, 149. Mulberries, 141, 168, 169. Brandy, 169. General Directions, 168.
Berries, Mulberries, Jam, 168. Jelly, 168. Marmalade, 168. Wine, 169. Nettle Tree (See Hackberry) Partridge Berry, 147. Raspberries, 139, 160-163. Bar-le-Duc (Jam), 174. Black, Pudding, 161. Catsup, 163. Cordial, 161. Frozen, 161. Ice, 161. Jam, 160. Telly, 161. Puddings, Red and
Black, 161. Red Raspberry Pud- ding, 161. Rose Sandwiches, 160. Royal, 161. Sandwiches, 160. Shrub, 161.
Without Sugar, 162. Soup, 4. Vinegar, 161. Wine, 163. Rowan, 149. Service Berry, 149. Sorb, 149.
Strawberries, 136, 150, 156.
Batter Cups, 151. Brandy, 156. Custard or Float, 152. Dry, To, 124. Dumplings, 152. Escalloped, 152. Float or Custard, 152. Fritters (See the
Apple), 30. Frozen, 153. Gelatine (See Intro- ductory Recipes), 16. Ice, 153.
Cream, 153. Jam, 154.
Jelly, 155.
Preserves, 153. Pyramid, 152. Sauce. 151.
INDEX
33i
Berries, Strawberries, Seal, To, without Cooking, 154.
Served Whole, 150 . Sherbet, 153. Shortcakes, 150. Shrub, 155.
Souffle (See Introduc- tory Recipes), 18, 19. Spiced, 154. Tart, 152. Vinegar, 156. Whips, 153. Wine, 155.
and Currant Wine, 177. Sugar Berry (See Hack- berry), 148. Whortleberries, 140, 163-
165.
Blueberry Bread, 164.
Gake, Huckleberry, 1 63
Canned, 165.
Catsup, 165.
To Dry! 165.
Huckleberry Cake, 163.
Jam, 164.
Jelly, 164.
Muffins, 164.
Mush, 164.
Old-fashioned Pud- ding, 163.
Pie, 164.
Slump, 164.
Vinegar, 165.
Wine, 165.
Winter green, 147. Bilberry (See Whortleberry), 140 Bilimbi, 313. Blackberry (See Berries),
136-184. Blueberry (See Berries),
136-184. Boxberry, 147. Bread Fruit, 310. Bullock's Heart, 301.
Caladium esculenta, 316. Oanteloupes (See Melons),
Capuassa, 315. Carambola, 313. Carissa acuminata , 312.
Carts sa arduina, 312.
carandas, 312. Cashew Apple or Nut, 313. Cayenne Cherry, 295. Ceriman, 311.
Checkerberry (See Berries). Cherimoya, or Chiramoya, 301. Cherry, The, 81-92.
Barbadoes, 295.
Bavarian Cream, 84.
Bounce, 90.
Brandied, 88.
Brandy, 89.
Bread Pudding, 84.
Cake Icing, 85.
Candied, 91.
Canned, 88.
Catsup, 88.
Cayenne, 295.
Cordial, 89.
Cream, 84.
Creme de Maraschino, 61.
Domestic Kirschwasser, 89.
Dried, 90, 91.
Float, 84.
Four Fruit Jelly, 86.
Frosted, 85.
Frozen, 85.
German Sauce, 84.
Ground, 147.
Ice, 85.
Cream, 85. with, 85.
Iced Maraschino-ade, 92.
Icing, Cake, 85.
Jam, 86-87.
Jelly, 86.
with Currants, 86.
Raspberry, 86. Four Fruit, 86.
Juice Preserved, 90. [irschwasser, Domestic, 89. Maraschino Jelly, 92.
Recipes, 92. Pickled, Cooked, 88.
Uncooked, 88. Pie, 84. Preserved, 87.
with Currant, 87.
with Lemon, 87.
Juice, 90.
332
INDEX
Cherry, Preserved, Syrup, 90. Pudding, 84.
Bread, 84. Punch, 89.
Rum (Wild Cherry), 90. Salads, 83. Sandwiches, 83. Sauce (German Pudding)
84.
Shrub, 90.
Soup, 83.
Spanish, 295.
Surinam, 295.
Syrup (Preserved), 90.
Uncooked Pudding, 84.
Vinegar (for Salads), 90. for Cookery and Table, 90.
Wild Cherry Rum, 90.
Winter, 147.
With Ice Cream, 85. Chilian Myrtle, 315. Chiramoya or Cherimoya, 301. Citrange, 229, 230. Citron, 223-227.
Brine (In), 225.
Candied, 224.
Dried with Sugar, 223.
Ice and Syrup, 225.
Preserve, 225.
Syrup, 225.
Melon (See Melons). Cocco Root, 316, 317. Cocoa Plum, 305. Cocoanut (Palm), 271-282.
Cakes, 281.
Cream Candy, 282.
Cups, 280.
Curry, 279.
Drops, 281.
Fritters (Indian), 279.
Macaroons, 281.
Milk for Cookery, 278.
Mousse (Frozen), 282.
Omelet, 279.
Orange Flowers and, 280.
Pastel de Coco, 281.
Salad, 278.
Sherried, 280.
Soup, 278.
Toast, 280.
Coromande Gooseberry, 313. Cranberry (See Berries). Currant (See Berries). Custard Apple, 301.
Date, The, (Palm). 271-278. With Bread-fruit, 274.
Breakfast Food, 274. Cake (Layer), 276.
Loaf, 276.
Macaroons, 276. Fluff Duff, 275. Foam, 275. Fruit Bread, 274. Fudge, 277. Gems, 274. Ice, 277.
Cream, 277. Jam, 275. Layer Cake, 276. Loaf Cake, 276. Macaroons, 276. Pie, 276. Salad, 278. Sandwiches, 274. Stewed, 274. Stuffed, 277. Dilly, Wild, 305. Durian, 314.
Egg Fruit, 305. Elderberry (See Berries). Elephant Apple, 315. Emblic Myrobolan, 314. Eugenia, 295.
Fig, 260-270.
Baked, 262. Blanc Mange, 265. Bread Pudding, 265. Cake (Layer), 264.
Loaf, 263. Cakes (Dried), 268.
Little, 263. Candied, 266. Candy, 266. Crystallised, 266. Dry (To), 268. Eat (To), 261. Filling (Cake), 264. Freshen (To), 262.
INDEX
333
Fig, Ice, 266.
Cream, 265. Indian (See Prickly Pear),
308 Jam, 266. Jelly, 267.
(For Filling), 264. Pickles, 267. Pie, 264. Preserved, 267, Pudding, 264. Bread, 265. Suet, 264. Snow, 264. Stewed, 262. Stuffed, 263. Suet Pudding, 264. Food Values, Tables of, 320. Four Fruit Jelly, 86. Frosted Fruit (Introductory Recipes), 22.
Ginep, 311.
Genipa Americana, 296.
Ginger Plant or Root, 317,318.
Candied, 318.
Preserved, 317.
Vinegar, 318.
Wine, 318. Gooseberry (See Berries). Granadilla, 308. Grape, The, 1 08-1 21.
Apples and Raisins, 119.
Bottled Grapes, in.
Brandied, 118.
Butter, 115.
Cake (Plum), 120.
Canned, 113.
Catawba Wine, 114.
Catsup, 115.
Chutney, 115.
Cordial, 115.
Crabapple and Grape Jelly, 42.
Currant Loaf, 121.
Elderberry and Grape Jelly, 117.
English Plum Cake, 120. Pudding, 121.
Farina, 118.
Grape, Fruits Preserved in Juice,
IT3-
Green Grapes, Pickled, 116. Home-made Tokay, 113. Ice- water, 119.
Cream, 119. Jams, Plain, 117.
Raisin-currant, 119. Raisin (Grape and Pear), 118. Jelly, Crabapple and Wild Grape, 116.
Elderberry and Grape,
117. Green Grape, 117. Ripe Grape, 117. Wild Grape with Crab- apple, 116. Spiced, 116. Juice, 113. Pickle, Green Grape, 116.
Sweet Grape, 116, Plum Cake, English, 120.
Pudding, 121. Preserve, Uncooked,
(In Ashes, Bottled, Cotton, Sand, Sawdust, Wax), in.
To, Fruits in Grape Juice, 113. Pudding, Raisin, Rice, 120. Punch, Hot, 115. Raisin and Currant Sauce,
Raisins, 118. Raisins and Rice, 120. Raisin, Rice Pudding, 120. Raisins, Sherry of , 114.
Stewed with Apples, 27.
Wine, 114. Sandwiches, 118. Sauce, Raisin and Ourrantf
119. Sea or Shore, 311. Sherbet, 119. Shore (or Sea), 311. Snow, 119. Soup, 118. Spiced, 116. Tokay, Home-made, 113.
334
INDEX
Grape, Uncooked, Preserved,
(In) Ashes, in.
Bottled, in.
Cotton, in.
Sand, in.
Sawdust, in.
(With) Wax, in. Unfermented Juice, 112. Vinegar, 114. Water Ice, 119. Wild Grape Jelly, 116. Wine, 113.
Catawba, 114.
Raisin, 114.
Sherry or Raisin, 114.
Tokay, 113. Grape-fruit or Pomelo, 229-237. (For) Breakfast, 231. Candied, Strips, 236. (And) Clams, 232. Cocktail, 232. Drops, 234. (With) Grapes, 232. Frozen, 235. Ice, 235. Jelly, 234.
(And) Limeade, 236. (For) Luncheon, 231. Marmalade, 233.
General Remarks, 234. Preserve, 235. Pyramid (Pink), 232. Rinds, 236. Salads, 233. Sherbet, 235. Syrup, 235. Wine, 235. Ground Cherry, 147. Guava, 287-294. Brandy, 293. Brown Betty, 289. Cattley Jelly, 291. Catsup, 292. Chutney, 293. Cobbler, 289. Custard, 290. Desserts (General), 290. Dumplings, 289. Fritters, 289. Jelly, 290.
Cattley, 291.
Guava, Macaroni (With), 289, Marmalade, 292. Paste, 291. Pickles, 292. Preserves, 292. Roly Poly, 290. Salad, 288. Sauce, 288. Serve Uncooked, 288. Shortcake, 289. Shrub, 293. Stewed, 288. Syrup, 293. Uncooked, 288. Vinegar, 293. Wine, 293.
Hackberry, 148. Haws, 148. Hog Plum, 314. Hovenia Dulcis, 316. Huckleberry (See Berries).
Indian Fig (See Prickly Pear),
308. Introductory Recipes, 3-22.
Batter for Fruit Fritters, 14.
Pudding, 14. Bavarian Cream, 16. Biscuit Dough, 8.
Drop, 9. Blanc Mange, 15. Bread for Fruit Toast, 13. Brod, German Fruit, 13. Butter Fruit, 12. Cake, Eggless, 10.
Fruit (Black), 12.
(General Remarks), 11.
One Egg, 10.
One, Two, Three, n.
Short Cake, 9.
Sponge, (Simple), 11.
(White), 11. Can (To) Fruit, 19. Candy, Clear, 22.
Cream, 21. Cornstarch, Blanc Mange,
1S- Custard, Baked, 14. Boiled, 14. Float, 14, 15-
INDEX
335
Introductory Recipes — Gotvt'd. Custard, Frozen, 17. Dressings, Salad, 6-8.
Cooked Mayonnaise, 7.
Cream, 7.
Cream Whipped, 7.
Egg, Whipped, 8.
French, 6.
Mayonnaise (Simple), 6. White, 7.
Olive Oil and Cream, 7.
Sour Cream, 8.
Whipped Cream, 7. Egg, 8.
White or Cream, 7. Float, 14-15- Frost Fruit (To), 22. Gelatine, 16. Granites, 17-18. Ice Cream, 17. Ices, 16. Icing, Boiled, 12,.
Soft, 12.
Water, 12. Italian Cream, 16.
{unket Fruit, 18. ,ozenges, Fruit, 21. Mull (To) Wine, 21. Omelet, 19. Pastry, Bread-Dough, 10.
Cream (With), 9.
Oatmeal, 9.
Potato, 9.
Preserve Fruit (To), 19.
Shortening (With), 10. Sago (See Tapioca), 15. Salads, 5.
Dressings, 6-8. Scones, 9. Sherbets, 17. Shortcake, Plain, 9. Souffle's, Cooked, 19.
Simple, 18. Soups, Fruit, 3.
Red Raspberry, 4.
Swedish Fruit, 4. Spanish Cream, 16. Sponge (Gelatine), 16. Syrups, Fruit, 21. Tapioca or Sago, 15, Wine, To Mull, 2 x.
Jamaica Apple, 245.
Plum, 255.
Sorrel, 257. Jambosade or Jambrosade, (See
Rose Apple), 295. Japan Persimmon, 283-286.
Dry (To), 285.
ielly, 285. larmalade, 285. Pudding, 285. Uncooked, 284. Japan Plum (See Loquat),
63-64. Java Plum, 295. Jujube, 316. June Berry, 149.
Kai Apple, 312.
Kaki (See Japan Persimmon),
283-286. Kashew Apple, 313. Kumquat, 223-228.
Au Naturel, 226.
Candied, 227.
Drinks (In) "Au Naturel," 226.
Frozen, 228.
Gelatine, 228.
Jam, 227.
Jelly, 227.
Marmalade, 227.
Preserve, 227.
Lemon, The, 185-200. Lemonades, 187-189.
Egg (Simple), 188. (With Sherry), Flaxseed, 187. Italian, 189. Orange, 189. Simple or * ' Squa^ 188. Baked, for Colds, 187. Boiled Pudding, 196. Cakes, Layer, Custard, 197.
Loaf, 197. Candied Lemon Peel, 200. Catsup, 198. Cheese, 194. Cordial, 187. Crackers, 198,
336
INDEX
Lemon, Cream Pie, 194. Cure for Malaria, 186. Custard, Frozen, 199.
Simple, 193. Drinks (In), 188. Dumplings, 196. Egg Lemonades, 188, 189. Eggiess Pie, 194. Flaxseed with, 187. Frozen Custard, 199. Ginger Beer, 189. For Headache, 187.
Hoarseness, 187. Honey, 193. Ice, 199.
Cream, 199. Italian Cure for Malaria, 186.
Lemonade, 189. Jelly, 192. Juice and Tea, 188. Layer Cake, 197. Lemonades, 187-189. Loaf, 197.
Maitre d' Hdtel Sauce, 199. Marmalade, 191. Orangeade, 189. Peel (Candied), 200. Pickles, 193. Pie, Cream, Custard, 194.
Eggiess, 194. Preserves, 191.
Lemon Rind, 191. Pudding (Boiled), 196.
Eggiess, 194. Rice, 195.
Sauce, 197. Rice Pudding, 195. Rind Preserved, 191. Sago, 195. Sandwiches, 198. Sauce (Maitre d'H6tel), 199.
Pudding, 197. Sherbet, 199. Snaps, 198. Sponge, 195. Squash, 188.
Sugar, for Flavouring, 191. Syrup (with Lemon), 190.
Without Lemon, 190. Tapioca, 195.
Lemon, Tea with Lemon Juice, 188.
Tincture of Lemon, 190.
Vine, 311.
Whey, 190.
Zest, 191. Lime, The, 229-237.
Ice, 237.
Juice, Fresh, 236. in Syrup, 236.
Pickled, 237.
Preserved, 237.
Sherbet, 237.
Spanish, 311.
Zest, 237. Lime-berry, 223-226. Litchi or Leechee, 314. Longan Tree, 314. Loquat, 63-65.
Jam, 64.
Jelly, 64.
Marmalade, 64.
Stewed, 64. Love Apple, 147.
Malay Apple, 295.
Mammee Apple, 303.
Mammee Sapota, 305.
Mango, 307.
Mangosteen, 303.
Mangrove, 313.
Marmalade Box, 296.
Maritzgula, 312.
May Apple, 146.
May Pop (See Granadilla), 308
Medlar, 63.
Melons, 125-135.
Candied Citron Melon, 133
Canteloupe Ice, 130.
To Serve Simply, 12;.
Catsup, Watermelon, 134.
Citron Melon in Jelly, 135. Melon Sauce, 134.
Curried Melons, 135. (for) Salads, 135. (as) Vegetables, 134
General Directions, 135.
Ice Rings, 129.
Mangoes, 132.
Marmalade, 131.
Mousse, 130,
INDEX
337
Melons, Nutmeg Baskets, 128
Compote, 130.
Tart, 130. Pie Melon Sauce, 134.
Tart, 134. Pickles, 131-132.
Mangoes, 132,
Ripe Muskmelons, 131.
Small Melon, 131.
Watermelon , 133. Preserved Citron Melon, 133. Roll, 129. Salads, 134. Sauce, Citron, or Pie Melon,
134. To Serve Canteloupes, 127.
Watermelons, 127. Spiced Melons, 132. Surprise, 129. Tart, Nutmeg, 130. Vegetables, Melons as, 134, Watermelons, 127. Watermelon Catsup, 134. Half Frozen, 129. Honey, 134. Pickles, 133. Sherbet, 130. Melon Pear or Shrub, 312. Monkey's Bread, 314. Monster a delicto sa, 311. Mountain Ash, 149. Mountain Plum, 304. Mulberries (See Berries), Muskmelon (See Melons), Myrobolan Emblic, 314.
Nut, Cashew or Kashew, 313.
Olive, The, 122-124.
Orange, Mandarin (See Sweet
Orange), 211-222. Orange, Seville, 201-210. Brandy, 208. Candied Flowers, 209. Domestic Curacoa, 208. Flowers, Candied, 209. Ice, 210. Icing, 210. Preserved, 208. in Syrup, 209. Water, 210.
Orange Ice (Orange Flower) ,210. Icing, Orange Flower, 210.
ielly, Seville Orange, 207. larmalade, 206,207. Florida, 206. Lemon and Orange, 207. Scotch, 206. Preserved Orange Flow- ers, 208, 209. in Syrup, Seville Orange, 207. Scotch Orange Marmalade,
206. Water, Orange Flower, 210. Wine, Seville, 208. Orange, The Sweet, 211-222. Baked Pudding, 215. Cake, 214-216 Cheese, 215. Fruit, 216. Layer, 216. Loaf, 216. Short, 214. Cheesecake, 215. Chips, 219. Cocoanut, with, 212. Cookies, 217. Cream of, 222. Custard, 217.
or Orange Souffle\ 217. Delight, 218. Filling (for Pie), 215. Flower (Orange) Souffle, 2 13. Fool, 217. Fritters, 214. Frozen (Orange), 219. Gelatine, 218. Ice, 218.
Cream, 219. Marmalade, 219. Telly, 221. Layer Cake, 216. Loaf Cake, 216. Macaroons, 216. Marmalade, 220. Jce, 219. Pudding, 215. Omelet, 213. Orangeade, 222. Pie (Filling), 215. (Cheese), 215.
33*
INDEX
Orange, Preserve, 221.
Pudding, Marmalade, 215. Rice, 218. Suet, 214.
Rice and Oranges, 213.
Sago, 218.
Salads, 212.
Sauce, 215.
Sherbet, 218.
Sherried Tangerine, 212.
Shortcake, 214.
Souffle* or Custard, 217.
Souffle\ Orange Flower, 213.
Sponge, 218.
Suet Pudding, 214.
Syrup, 222.
Tangerine Sherried, 212.
Tapioca, 218.
Vinegar, 222.
Wine, 222. Orange- tangerine (See Sweet
Orange), 211-222. Otaheite Apple, 314.
Gooseberry, 311.
Plum, 314.
Palm, Oocoanut, 271-282.
Date, 271-282.
Peach, 315. Papaw, Northern, 106.
Tarts, 106.
Tropical, 307. Partridge Berry, 147. Peach, The, 66-80.
Apricot or Peach Wine, 79.
Baked Peaches, 69.
Betty, 72.
Brandied, 77.
Brandy, Commercial, 80. Domestic, 80.
Bread Pudding, 72.
Butter, 78.
Oake, Dutch, 69.
Canned Peaches, 76.
Catsup Peaches, 78.
Chutney, 78.
Cobbler, 70.
Commercial Brandy, 80.
Cream of Peach Sherbet, 74.
Or&me de Noyau, 80.
Peach, Custard Pudding, 71. Domestic Brandy, 80. Dried, 75.
Dutch Fruit Moons, 69. Extract of Nectarine, 79.
Peach, 79. Foam-peach, or Snow, 74. Fritters, 70. Frozen, 74.
Fruit Moons (Dutch), 69. Halved, 68. Ice, 74.
Cream, 74. Jam (Cooked), 75,
Uncooked, 75. Jelly, 76. Kisses, 72. Leather, 75. Mangoes, 77. Marmalade, 76. Moons (Dutch Fruit), 69. Mousse, 73. Palm, 315. Pan Dowdy, 71. Pickled Peaches or Apricots,
Pie, 71.
Spider, 71. Pone or Suet Pudding, 69. Pudding, Bread, 72.
Custard, 71.
Plain, 71.
Sherried, 72.
Steamed, 72.
Suet Pudding or Pone, 69. Russe, 73. Salads, 68. Sauce Preserved, 7 c. Sherbert (Cream of), 74. Sherried (Pudding), 72. Shortcake, 69. Snow, 74. Souffle\ 73. Soup and Prune, 68.
Hot, 68.
Cold, 68. Spiced, 77. Spider Pie, 71. Steamed Pudding, 72. Stewed Peaches, 69.
INDEX
339
|
Peach, Suet Pudding or Pone |
,69. |
Pineapple, Custard, Frozen, 244. |
|
Tart, 70. |
Fritters, 241. |
|
|
Tartlets, 70. |
Frozen, 244. |
|
|
Vinegar, 80. |
Custard, 244. |
|
|
Wine, Peach or Apricot |
. 79- |
Ice, 243. |
|
Pear, The, 49-56. |
Cream, 244. |
|
|
Baked, 51. |
In Shell, 240. |
|
|
Meringued, 51. |
Jam, 245. |
|
|
Preserved, 54. |
Jelly, 244, 245. Lemon or Limeade and, 247. |
|
|
Stuffed, 51. |
||
|
Brandied, 53. |
Luncheon Dish, Simple, |
|
|
Bread Pudding, 51. |
239- |
|
|
Chips, 55. |
Marmalade, 245. |
|
|
Compote, 52. |
Mousse, 243. |
|
|
Dry, To, 50. |
Muffins, 241. |
|
|
Ices, 52. |
Omelet, 239. |
|
|
Jelly, 55- Marmalade, 54. |
Pare, Properly, To, 239. |
|
|
Preserve, Cooked, 246. |
||
|
Meringued, 51. |
Uncooked, 246. |
|
|
Pack (To), 50. |
Pie or Pudding Filling, 242. |
|
|
Perry, 50. Pickled, 55. |
Punch, 247. |
|
|
Salad, 240. |
||
|
Preserved (Baked), 54 |
Shell (In), 240. |
|
|
Plain, 53. With Ginger, 54. |
Sherbet, 243. |
|
|
Soufrle\ 241. |
||
|
Grape Juice, 53. |
Sponge, 242. |
|
|
Lemon, 54. |
Syrup, 247. |
|
|
Perry, 53. |
Tapioca, 242. |
|
|
Pyramid of, 51. |
Vinegar, 248. |
|
|
Raisin6e (See Grapes), |
55- |
Plum, The, 93-105. |
|
Sauce, 55. |
Brandied Plums, 99. |
|
|
Stewed, 51. |
Brandy, 100. |
|
|
Trifle, 52. |
Butter, 97. |
|
|
Uncooked, 50. |
Cake, 1 01. |
|
|
Vinegar, 56. |
Catsup, 97. Wild, 97. |
|
|
Pear, Alligator, 299-300. |
||
|
Melon, 312. |
Cocoa Plum, 305. |
|
|
Prickly, 308. |
Dried, (Whole), 98. |
|
|
Strawberry, 312. |
(With Sugar), 98. |
|
|
Persimmon, Japanese, 283- |
286. |
Domestic Kirschwasser, 89. |
|
Northern, 107. |
Duff, 100. |
|
|
Pineapple, The, 238-249. |
General Directions, 101. |
|
|
Pineappleade, 247. |
Hog, 314. |
|
|
Beer, 248. |
Ices, 101. |
|
|
Breakfast Fruit, (As), |
239- |
Jam, Apricot and Plum, 96. |
|
Cake, 241. |
Damson, 96. |
|
|
Canned (With Sugar), |
246. |
Lemon and Plum, 96. |
|
(Without Sugar), |
246. |
Jamaica, 314. |
|
Champagne, 248. |
Japan (See Loquat), 63, 64. |
|
|
Chips, 247. |
Java, 295. Jelly, 96. |
|
|
Compote, 242. |
34Q
INDEX
Plum, Kirschwasser (Domestic), 89.
Leather, 98.
Marmalade, Crabapple and,
Sweet, 95.
Wild, 95. Mountain, 304. Otaheite, 314. Paste, 98. Pickled, 99. Preserved, 98. Pudding, 1 01. Salad, 95. Soup, 95. Spiced, 97. Trifle, 100. Vinegar, 100. Wild Plum Catsup, 97.
Marmalade, 95. Wine, 99. Pomegranate, 297, 298. Ice, 298. Jam, 298. Jelly, 298. Syrup, 298. Wine, 298. Pomelo (See Grape-fruit), 229-
*37- Pond Apple, 301. Prickly Pear, 308. Prune, The, 101-105. Betty, 102. Bread or Pone, 102. Pudding, 1 01. Cake, 103.
Short, 103. Croquettes, 102. Dumplings, 102. Gelatine, 104. General Directions, 105. Ices, 105.
Individual Puddings, 105. Pone or Prune Bread,
102. Pudding-bread, 102. Individual, 105. Suet, 102. Roll, 103.
Sauce ("Pruin"), 105. Sherried Prunes, 103.
Shortcake, 103. Snow, 105. Prune, Souffle^ 104. Soup, 1 01. Spiced Prunes, iot. Sponge, 104. Stuffed, 102. Tart, 103.
Quince, The, 57-62.
Baked, 61.
Candied Slices, 60.
Canned, 59.
Cider, 57.
Cordial, 60.
Dried, 60.
General Directions, 62.
Honey, 61.
Ices, 61.
Jelly, 58.
Juice, Preserved, 60.
Marmalades, 58, 59.
Preserved, 59. Juice, 60. Syrup, 60.
Salads, 62.
Sauce, 61.
Steamed, 61.
Syrup, Preserved, 60.
Tarts, 61. Quince, Bengal, 315.
Raspberry (See Berries). Rose Apple, 295. Roselle Berry, 316. / Rowan Tree, 149.
Sapota, Mammee, 305.
White, 305. Sapodilla, 305.
Sea Grape (Shore Grape), 311. Service Berry, 149. Shadberry, 149. Shaddock, 220.
Shore Grape (Sea Grape), 311. Sop, Sour, 301. Sop, Sweet, 301. Sorb, 149.
Sorrel, Jamaica, 316. Sour Sop, 301. South American Apricot, 303.
INDEX
34i
Spanish Bayonet, 317
Cherry, 296.
Goose, 311.
Lime, 311. Star Apple, 305. St. Domingo Apricot, 303. Strawberry (See Berries).
Pear, 312. Sugar Apple, 301.
Tables of Food Values, 319-324. Weights and Measures, xix. Tamarind, 309. Tangelo, 229,330. Ti-es, 305.
Tomato Strawberry, 147. Tree Tomato, 313. Trifoliate Orange, 223-226. Tropical Almond, 316. Papaw, 307.
Voa-vanga, 315.
Watermelon, 125-135.
Weights and Measures, Tables
of, xix. White Sapota, 305. Whortleberry (See Berries). Winter Cherry, 147. Wintergreen, 147.
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