• ■

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THOMPSON’S GARDENER’S ASSISTANT

NEW EDITION

CYPRIPEDIUMS: —

I, INSIGNE, VAR. 2, CHAMBER LAINIANUM. 3, EVENOR.

CYPRI PEDI UMS

No genus or race of Orchids that has been brought under
cultivation has yielded so readily, and we may add, so
strikingly, to its influence as Cypripedium. This is not only
apparent in the results of hybridization, but also in the species
themselves, especially in those that have been longest under
the cultivator’s care. The most obvious effects of cultural
influence have been the development of more robust foliage
of a brighter colour; the normally one-flowered scape occasion¬
ally becomes two-flowered; the flowers are often larger and
modified in colour (Veitch). Generally they are easily culti¬
vated, they flower freely and may readily be induced to mature
seeds from which plants can be raised. The species, with few
exceptions, readily intercross, and consequently an enormous
number of hybrids have been raised artificially. Two of the
three represented in the plate are true species, the third,
EVENOR, is a garden hybrid. Recently the genus has been
divided by botanists into four, viz.:— Cypripedium, Phragmo-
pedilum, Paphiopedilum, and Selenipedium.

! I

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•• [

THE

GARDENER’S ASSISTANT

A PRACTICAL AND SCIENTIFIC EXPOSITION OF THE
ART OF GARDENING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES

BY

ROBERT THOMPSON

OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, CHISWICK

NEW EDITION

REVISED AND ENTIRELY REMODELLED UNDER THE DIRECTION
AND GENERAL EDITORSHIP OF

WILLIAM WATSON

CURATOR, ROYAL GARDENS, KEW

WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM

Dr. M. T. MASTERS, F.R.S., EDWARD MAWLEY, F.M.S., G. MASSEE, F.L.S.

F. W. BURBIDGE, M.A., F.L.S., J. FRASER, F.L.S., J. J. WILLIS
R. LEWIS CASTLE, W. IGGULDEN, R. DEAN, J. HUDSON, J. DOUGLAS, W. J. BEAN
AND NUMEROUS OTHER EMINENT SPECIALISTS

ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT,

AND A SERIES OF PLATES IN COLOUR, AND OF PLATES IN BLACK-AND-WHITE

Volume 1

LONDON

THE GRESHAM PUBLISHING COMPANY

34 SOUTHAMPTON STREET, STRAND

1907

With regard to the illustrations in Volume I, indebtedness has to be acknowledged to the
following: — Messrs. Barr <£■ Sons, Covent Garden, London ; James Boyd & Sons , Paisley;
James Carter & Co., London; Mr. L. Casella, London; The Gardeners’ Chronicle, London;
The Gardeners’ Magazine, London; Messrs. Mill £ Smith, Brierley Hill; Kelway £ Son,
Langport, Somerset; Lovell Reeve £ Co., London (The Botanical Magazine); T. H.
Mawson , Esq., Windermere; Messrs. Negretti & Zambrq, London; Osman £ Co.. London;
IF. Robinson, Esq.; Messrs. F. Sander & Co., St. Albans; Sutton & Sons, Reading; and
James Veitch & Sons , Ltd., Chelsea.

iv

PREFACE

The original edition of The Gardeners Assistant was issued in 1859, under the
editorship of the late Mr. Robert Thompson, Superintendent of the Royal Horticultural
Society’s Gardens at Chiswick, an eminent authority on all matters appertaining to-
English horticulture. He was assisted by Mr. William Paul, Mr. Cock, Mr. Salter, and
Mr. Glendenning, who contributed chapters on the subjects of which they were leading
practical exponents. The work was at once welcomed as “ the soundest and best guide
to 'pract ical garden ing that has been published in our times ”, “ the best book on general
practical horticulture in the English language ”, &c.

In 1877, and again in 1884, the work was revised and enlarged by Mr. Thomas
Moore, F.L.S., Curator of the Chelsea Botanic Gardens, assisted by numerous specialists,
including Messrs. W. B. Hemsley, J. C. Niven, F. W. Burbidge, T. Baines, R. Dean,
and J. Douglas. The new issue was received with even greater favour than the
previous one. Mr. William Tillery, Gardener to His Grace the Duke of Portland,
Welbeck, one of the cleverest of English gardeners, wrote concerning it: “I consider
this new edition of Thompson’s Gardener s Assistant the most complete work on
horticulture and floriculture that has ever been published. Every gardener should
have a copy of it, both for its practical and scientific interest, and as a guide to all
the duties of the profession.” The Athenceum described it as “A veritable encyclopedia
to which all may turn who wish to have the best and soundest information on the
practice of gardening ”,

A new edition being again called for, its preparation was commenced under the
joint general editorship of Mr. Edward W. Badger and Mr. Archibald F. Barron,
but owing to failing health they were compelled to relinquish the task, not, however,
before some progress had been made with the work of revision. The duties of
general editor were then intrusted to me, and, thanks to the hearty co-operation of
numerous specialists, as well as to the sympathetic help and encouragement afforded
by the publishers, the work has been completed. The book has been remodelled,
revised, and enlarged to such an extent that it is now practically a new work, in
which every department of the garden is dealt with in a thoroughly comprehensive
manner to meet the requirements of present-day horticulture.

An important feature of this new edition is the illustrations, which in many
instances are far more helpful than any words could be. Many of them were specially
drawn or photographed for this edition, and I am indebted to numerous friends for

VI

PREFACE

the supply of material for the artists to work from. The horticultural press has
also been most helpful in this l’espect.

The following is a list of the contributors and the initials appended to the
particular chapters which they have written or revised: —

a. h. A. HEMSLEY.

a. r. ARCHIBALD PIPER.

a. w. A. WARD.

e. b. EDWIN BECKETT.

E. m. EDWARD F. R. MAWLEY,

j. j. w. J. J. WILLIS.

j. m. J. MILES.

j. mT. J. MTNDOE.

j. o’b. dAMES O’BRIEN.

j. s. J. SMITH.

m. d. MALCOLM DUNN.

m. t. m. Dr. MAXWELL T. MASTERS, F.R.S.

r. d. RICHARD DEAN.

r. l. c. R. LEWIS CASTLE.

w. c. W. CRUMP.

w. d. W. DALLIMORE.

w| H. D. W. H. DIVERS.

w. i. W. IGGULDEN.

w| j. b. W. J. BEAN.

w. s. W. SPINKS.

F.R.Met.Soc.

f. m. FREDERICK MOORE.

f. w. b. F. W. BUllBIDGE, M.A., F.L.S.

g. m. G. MASSEE, F.L.S.

g. t. m. G. T. MILES.

h. c. p. H. C. PRINSEP.
j. b. JAMES BOYD.

j. d. JAMES DOUGLAS.

j. f. JOHN FRASER, F.L.S.
j. h. JAMES HUDSON.

For all chapters and sections that are not initialled I am solely responsible;
also for the nomenclature of the plants, which is, of course, that in use at Kew. I
may add that the exceptional advantages affoi’ded by my having access to the great
collections of plants and books in the Royal Gardens made my task lighter than it
would otherwise have been.

W. WATSON.

Kew, May, 190ic.

CONTENTS

VOLUME 1

INTRODUCTORY- Page

Calendar of Operations in the Flower-garden - ■ - - 1

Meteorology . . 20

CHAP. I. — PLANT STRUCTURE. Conditions of Existence — Structural Elements — The Cell and

its Contents — Protoplasm — Modifications of Cells — Pitting — The Thallus . 26

CHAP. II. — THE LIVING- PLANT. Green Plants — Uncoloured Plants — Parasites — Saprophytes
— Microbes — Symbiosis — Thallophytes and Vascular Cryptogams — Asexual and Sexual Condi¬
tions — Flowering Plants — Sensation and Movements in Plants — Continuity of Protoplasm- - 29

CHAP. III. — THE RADICLE AND THE ROOT. Nature and Movements — Root-hairs — The

Root-cap — Root Action — Various Forms of Roots . -- -32

CHAP. IV.— THE CAULICLE— THE STEM. The Primary Bud or Plumule— The Stem— The
Cambium — The Wood — The Bast — Various Forms of Stems: Bulbs, Tubers, &c. — Structure of
Stem - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -34

CHAP. V.— THE LEAF— THE COTYLEDONS. Forms of the Leaf— Simple Leaves— Compound
Leaves — Leaf Structure — Epidermis — Pairs — Leaf Action — Evaporation — Respiration — Assimi¬
lation . -------- 37

CHAP. VI. — NUTRITION. Conditions of Plant Life — The Soil as a Source of Food and Air — The
Air as a Source of Food — The Action of Light — Chlorophyll — The Movements of Liquids in
Plants — The Sap . ------- 41

CHAP. VII. — GROWTH AND BRANCHING. Necessary Conditions — Definite and Indefinite

Growth — Buds — Sympodes — Cuttings — Grafting and Budding — The Inflorescence and Bracts - 45

CHAP. VIII.— REPRODUCTION— THE FLOWER. Difference between Growth and Reproduc¬
tion — Pollen-cells — Egg-cells — Conditions for Flowering — Conformation of the Flower — Parts of
the Flower — Fertilization — Hybridization — Sports — Division, Separation, and Recombinations

of the Nuclear Elements — Seeds, Dispersal of — Germination - -- -- --48

CHAP. IX. — HYBRIDIZATION. Cross-fertilization — Hybridism — Isolation and Self-fertilization
— Double Flowers — Fertilization in Cryptogamic Plants, Ferns — Vegetative Sports or Bud
Variation . ---58

CHAP. X. — CLASSIFICATION. Species — Genera — Orders — Classes — Genealogical Arrangements
— Artificial Groups . -----65

CHAP. XI.— INSECT AND OTHER PLANT ENEMIES. Bark Enemies— Bud and Flower
Enemies — Fruit and Seed Enemies— Leaf Enemies — Root Enemies — Stem Borers - - - 67

CHAP. XII.— GARDEN FRIENDS - - . - 114

CHAP. XIII.— PLANT DISEASES CAUSED BY FUNGI. Kind of Food required by Fungi
— Structure and Reproduction — Different Modes of Reproduction — Preventing the Spread of a

Disease — Preventing a Repetition of a Disease — Fungicides . 123

vii

CONTENTS

viii

Page

CHAP. XIV. — SOILS. The Soil and its Properties — Tillage of Soils — Different Soils employed in
Horticulture — Ingredients of Soils — Sources of Nitrogen — Do Plants assimilate Free Nitrogen?

— Azalea Culture . - - - - - - - 131

CHAP. XY. — MANURES. Organic Manures — Inorganic Manures — The Effect of Manures - - 154

CHAP. XVI.— TOOLS, INSTRUMENTS, USED IN GARDENS. Tools— Cutting Instru¬
ments — Instruments used in Laying Out Ground Lines — Machines — Utensils — Miscellaneous
Articles . - . 173

CHAP. XVII. — GARDEN STRUCTURES. Walls — Glass-houses, Pits, and Frames — Miscel¬
laneous Structures ... 196

CHAP. XVIII. — HEATING. By Flues — by Hot Water — Furnaces — Boilers — Pipes — Warming

Buildings by Hot Water — Heating by Steam — Heating by Gas - - - - - - - 216

CHAP. XIX. — PROPAGATION. Propagation by Seed — by Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers — by
Division — by Runners — by Suckers — by Layers — by Cuttings — by Leaves — by Roots — by
Grafting — by Budding — by Inarching . - - - - - 223

CHAP. XX. — TRANSPLANTING. Need for Transplanting — Plants which bear it — The best
Season for it — How to Transplant . 247

CHAP. XXI.— PRUNING. Pruning of Large Trees— of Old or Sickly Trees— of Shrubs— Root-
pruning — Ringing . 251

CHAP. XXII.— FLOWER-GARDENS AND PLEASURE-GROUNDS. Formation of a Garden
— Reserve Garden — Sub-tropical Garden — Hardy Perennial Garden — The Rock-garden — A
Rootery — Decorations — Formation of Pleasure-grounds — Approach Road — Walks — Shrubberies
— The Rose-garden — American Garden — Decorations — Lawns — Bowling-greens — Lawn-tennis
Grounds — Ornamental Water - -- -- -- -- -- -- 258

CHAP. XXIII.— HARDY ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. Hardy Trees and Shrubs
— Hardy Conifers — Sea-side and Town Trees and Shrubs — Sea-side Planting — Trees for Chalk
Soils — Trees for Towns . -.---- 283

CHAP. XXIV.— HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. The Herbaceous Border — The

Alpine Garden — The Wild Garden . - - - - 340

CHAP. XXV.— AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS -------- 378

CHAP. XXVI.— HARDY AND HALF-HARDY ANNUALS ------- 387

CHAP. XXVII.— POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS . 400

CHAP. XXVIII.— GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY . - 523

CHAP. XXIX.— LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS . 528

CHAP. XXX.— THE STOVE OR TROPICAL HOUSE . 544

CHAP. XXXI.— LIST OF STOVE PLANTS . -546

CHAP. XXXII. — ORCHIDS. General Remarks — Houses — Treatment — Hybrids — Pruning —

Manure — Insects — Cut Flowers — Spot or Disease — List of Orchids . 557

CHAP. XXXIII.— FERNS— STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. General Treatment —Insects—

Rockery — List of Ferns — Lycopodiums . 582

CHAP. XXXIV.— FERNS— HARDY. General Treatment— Hardy Ferns under Glass— Select

List of Hardy Ferns . 603

CHAP. XXXV.— PALMS AND CYCADS. Propagation— Insect Pests— List of Palms— Cycads 608

CHAP. XXXVI.— SUCCULENT PLANTS. Cultivation— Cacti and their Treatment— List of

Succulent Plants . 615

CHAP. XXXVII.— HARDY SHRUBS FOR FORCING . 621

CHAP. XXXVIII.— HERBACEOUS PLANTS AND BULBS FOR FORCING - - - 625

CHAP. XXXIX.— RETARDING PLANTS . 628

CHAP. XL.— SPRING BEDDING . 628

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TEA-ROSES

The merits of the many beautiful Roses which are known as
tea-scented owing to their peculiar odour, are not yet fully
recognized in gardens. They are supposed to be too tender to
be grown in the open air, developing their full beauty only
under glass; but with few exceptions they will bear as much
cold as most Roses, provided they are afforded protection from
nipping wind and frost in early spring, when they are apt to
suffer through starting too early into growth. Breeders have
done more within the last ten years to improve this class than
any other, and there are now hundreds of varieties, many of
which are as large and beautiful in form and colouring as the
three represented in the plate herewith. Of the 6000 cut
blooms of Roses shown at the last exhibition at the Crystal
Palace, half were Tea-Roses. They have the valuable quality
of flowering freely and continuously from June to November,
and even later. They are best on their own roots or budded on
seedling Brier. When grafted or budded on the Manetti they
are least satisfactory.

!, COMTESSE DE ElADAILLAC. ' 2, THE BRIDE. 3, MADAME CUSIN.

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CATTLEYAS

Cattleyas take first rank among garden Orchids, and they
owe this position to their usually large and richly-coloured
flowers, not one of the many species and varieties known
being unattractive. By far the handsomest of them are all
those which constitute the Labiata section, of which that shown
in the plate is a type. In this section there are varieties with
pure white, rose-tinted, purple, or nankeen -yellow flowers,
the lip in every case being blotched or veined with some more
pronounced colour. They vary in their season of flowering,
the true Labiata , often called Vera, flowering in autumn.
The variety Mossice, forms of which have flowers eight
inches across, beautifully coloured, blooms in May or June.
The species have been intercrossed freely by breeders, and
there are now many beautiful hybrids which, judged by their
commercial value, are greatly superior to their parents. There
are also many hybrids between Cattleyas and the closely-
related Laelias.

1 ' ] .1 -0 ; 1 : ■ : ; ■ : •' V

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CANNAS

The beautiful race of Carinas that we now possess was
originated by M. Crozy, a French nurseryman, who, by
crossing two species, obtained a new “break” of compara¬
tively dwarf habit and with large flowers. Other breeders,
especially Herr Pfitzer and Herr Ernst, German nurserymen,
have continued the work of improvement by cross-breeding
and selection, with the result that a large number of beautiful
varieties are now available for the garden, both under glass
and in the open air in summer. In the warmer parts of this
country Cannas are used as bedding plants; they are lifted
in October and stored in a dry frost-proof place until March,
when they are started in a little warmth with Dahlias, &c.,
and planted outside in June. They flower continuously from
July onwards. Grown in pots under glass they form hand¬
some pictures of large green or bronzed leaves and spikes of
flowers, whose colours vary from rose to crimson, cream
yellow to orange, or variegated, as in that shown in the plate.

HIMALAYAN HOUSE AT KEW

(A Wing of t^e Great Winter Garden)

PLANT-HOUSE RANGES

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT

INTRODUCTORY

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN

it is necessary to observe, that no calendarial
directions can be made to justify the expectation
that they can be strictly followed in all cases.
The climate of the locality, the season, soil,
and other circumstances, may render deviation
expedient or absolutely necessary. It will be
found, however, that in preparing the following
Calendar most of the circumstances that lead
to exceptions have been noticed, and suitable
directions given accordingly. It is obviously
impossible to provide for every contingency;
but any intelligent person will easily adopt
such modifications as his particular case may
require. On the whole, it is presumed that
the following Calendar will be generally appli¬
cable throughout the United Kingdom. It may
be said that over this extent the climate is
exceedingly variable, and therefore no one
Calendar can be applicable; but within certain
limits of elevation the difference between the
temperatures of any two places is much less
than frequently occurs between the tempera¬
tures of two different seasons at the same place.
For example, if we take March — the principal
spring month for seed-sowing — we find that
over nearly ten degrees of latitude, extending
from Paris to Wick, in Caithness, the mean
temperature of that month differs very little on
the average of a number of years, as will be
seen by the following table : —

Latitude.

Mean Temperature
of March.

Paris, .

. 43-79

Rouen, .

. 49 26 ...

. 41-12

Brussels, .

. 50 51 ...

. 42-78

Chiswick, London, .

. 51 29 ...

. 42-23

Boston, Lincolnshire, ....

. 52 48 ...

. 41-67

Dublin, .

. 53 21 ...

. 42-46

Liverpool, .

. 53 25 ...

. 44-44

Edinburgh, .

. 55 58 ...

. 40-53

Dundee, .

. 56 27 ...

. 42-20

Aberdeen, .

. 57 9 ...

. 42-80

Elg-in, Morayshire, .

. 57 38 ...

. 40-53

Wick, Caithnesshire, .

VOL. I.

. 58 29 ...

. 41-94

From the above it appears that the mean
temperature of March is nearly the same at
London, Dublin, Dundee, and Aberdeen, al¬
though the last-named of these places is nearly
400 miles north of the first. At Elgin, the
month of March is just as warm as it is at Edin¬
burgh; and at Wick, furthest north of the towns
noted, the mean temperature at that period of
the year is higher than at Edinburgh. It will
also be seen that at all the above places the
difference of temperature in March is not such
as to materially affect the Calendar of Opera¬
tions. In fact its scope may include all those
widely-distant places.

But in different seasons, at the same place, a
greater variation than that arising from latitude
frequently occurs, in consequence of which con¬
siderable modifications of usually applicable di¬
rections have to be made. The mean tempera¬
ture of the month to which we have referred
varies as much as ten degrees in different years ;
and operations such as sowing and planting,
which in ordinary seasons would be properly
done in the first week of March, may not be at
all practicable, in consequence of frost and snow,
till the very end of the month.

The adaptation of a Calendar, therefore, is
more affected by the variations of the seasons
than by any circumstance connected with lo¬
calities fit for gardens throughout the extent of
Britain. If, then, a Calendar is carefully made
for one place, it may be considered suitable for
this country in general. By gardeners in the
south, as well as in the north, calendarial direc¬
tions must be understood with the proviso —
weather and state of the soil permitting. If these
are favourable the earliest practicable oppor¬
tunity should be taken to carry out the opera¬
tions indicated.

l

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2

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

JANUARY.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — AH through this month
it will he very necessary to pay special attention
to orchids, as there are some species which do
not thrive under artificial heat if it be too liber¬
ally supplied; while at the same time some of
those from the hotter regions of the earth would
suffer in a low moist temperature if allowed to
remain under those conditions for any protracted
period. Odontoglossums of the crispum type
should be kept in a temperature of from 45° at
night to 50° or 60° in the day, according to the
weather. Air should be admitted on all favour¬
able occasions, and the plants should be sprinkled
with a syringe every day that the weather per¬
mits. If possible, the house should be washed
and thoroughly cleaned inside, so as to get rid
of all insect and other pests that may have crept
inside from the cold. Constant supervision
must be exercised to prevent snails from destroy¬
ing the flower-spikes, which they soon find out
if any are showing. — Those of the vexillarium
type ought to be kept in a temperature a
few degrees higher; also 0. Harryanum, 0.
citrosmum, 0. Roezlii, and others. If the weather
in this month lie very severe, so that much fire-
heat is necessary to keep the temperature to the
requisite degree, a close search must be made
for thrips. A little sulphur put down the sheaths
will be sufficient to keep them in check. Some
of the different sections of Dendrobiums will
now be in flower, and they should be kept free
from damp or the flowers will become spotted.
Those of the nobile division, as, for example,
Ainsworthii, aureum, and moniliforme, may have
a temperature of from 50° to 55° Fahr. when in
flower, and, while at rest, from 45° to 50°, ac¬
cording to the weather. Plants belonging to
the bigibbum section should be kept in a tem¬
perature which should not fall below 60°; neither
ought such as Farmeri to be subjected to a
lower temperature. Cattleyas generally will
now be at rest, and they should have a tem¬
perature of from 55° to 60°, with a rather dry
atmosphere. Those who grow a mixed collec¬
tion of orchids in one house will find the
Zygopetalums very useful at this period of the
year. These thrive best in an intermediate
temperature. Most of the Calanthes will by
this time have finished flowering, and should
therefore be put to rest in a warm dry place,
which should not be allowed to fall below 55°.
As many of the Oncidiums will be throwing

up their flower-spikes, they will require careful
watching to prevent slugs from eating them.

Hothouse — During the present month work
in this department is not abnormally severe.
Special care, however, must be taken to keep
the houses at the proper temperature, for as t he
inmates of these structures have their native
habitats in warm countries, they will not remain
in health if subjected to cold. Where much
house decoration is required it will be requisite
to propagate plants for the purpose, and to
bring them forward, so that they may take the
place of those which become unhealthy through
standing too long in dwelling-rooms.

Caladium bulbs may be divided where there
is sufficient heat at command to cause them to
commence growth quickly. The little Argyrites
and Le Nain Rouge are two useful kinds for this
purpose. Small palms should be potted on, so
that they may be well rooted before being
removed. Kentias, Cocos, Arecas, and Geo¬
nomas are the most easily adapted to this use.
Such plants as Gymnostachyum, Acalyphas,
Pandanus, Panicum, Asparagus plimosus, Cy- •
perus, Crotons, and the like, are all useful in a
small state, and may be propagated where suffi¬
cient heat is available. Many of the plants in
this department will soon be starting into growth,
and will therefore require re-potting. Material
for this, such as peat loam, leaf-mould, sand,
cocoa-nut fibre, manure, and moss, should be
got ready, and, if possible, put into a warm
place, so that it may be of the same tempera¬
ture as that in which the plants are growing.
Have all pots and drainage material washed
previous to using them, as cleanliness is of great
importance in plant-cultivation.

Intermediate House. — This will now be
occupied with the preparation of cut flowers and
plants for the conservatory, for where a supply
of these has to be kept up it is imperative that
they should be subjected to a lower degree of
heat than that of the forcing house before they
are removed to cooler structures. Bouvardias,
Heliotropes, and many other plants of a similar
nature will grow in such places. Imantophyll-
ums, Amaryllis, and Epiphyllums, together with
many other plants of a like nature, will succeed
well in a temperature of about 55° Fahr., in addi¬
tion to those which have been brought from
warmer houses to be hardened a little before
removal to a lower temperature.

Forcing House Where a constant demand

for flowering plants exists many things will have
to be brought forward in heat. Among these may
be mentioned Azalea mollis, A. indica, A.ponlica,

FEBRUARY.

3

and the various Ghent varieties. These, with
Spiraeas, including Spiraea astilboides, S. japonica,
S. confusa, and & T lumber gii, Lilacs, Philadelphus,
Deutzias, Rhododendrons, and Roses, should he
potted up, and introduced in batches as they are
required. Tuberoses will also have arrived by
this time, and a batch of them ought to be started
in small pots, potting them on into those of larger
size as soon as they show their flower-spikes.
Batches of Lilium Harrisii, Hyacinths, Tulips,
Lily of the Yalley, Polygonatum, Narcissus,
Gladiolus (The Bride), and other bulbs ought
also to be brought forward in gentle heat, and re¬
moved, just as the flowers begin to expand, into
a cooler and more airy structure. This is done
in order that their flowers may be of greater
substance, and therefore better able to endure
the lower temperature to which they will be
subjected.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — In cold,
frosty weather much care must be exercised to
keep the occupants of these places in good health,
particularly if they include, as is usually the
case, a varied collection of plants. Cape Heaths
do not thrive under much artificial heat, while
some of the soft-wooded plants, such as Pelar¬
goniums, ought not to be in a lower tempera¬
ture than 45° Fahr. Where these plants have
to occupy the same houses as those derived from
Australia they should be placed at the warmest
end of the building, in such positions that
they may be placed near the glass. Watering
must be done cautiously, especially if the ther¬
mometer should show a lower degree than that
mentioned. Heaths, and other hard-wooded
plants of similar habit, should have all the air
possible when the weather is propitious, for a
close atmosphere conduces to the formation of
mildew.

The conservatory must be kept free from all
dead or decaying foliage or flowers, and no more
water should be used than is necessary to keep
the plants in a state of health, for the less mois¬
ture there is in the house the better and fresher
will the flowers keep. Superfluous moisture
may be expelled by keeping up a sufficient
heat. It is always best to ventilate in the early
part of the day, closing the lights early, so as to
aid in maintaining the temperature during the
night.

Pits and Frames.

Under this heading must be included both
hot and cold pits, wooden frames, and boxes for
placing in hot-beds. The former are most use¬
ful for protecting plants which are required for

the flower-garden during summer. The gentle
heat generated by the hot-water pipes will be suf¬
ficient to keep the frost away from such plants as
Pelargoniums, Ageratums, Lobelias, and other
half-hardy kinds required for the aforesaid pur¬
pose. They are also well adapted for propa¬
gating most of such plants. Unheated pits are
serviceable for growing Yiolets, and for winter¬
ing many plants which are too sensitive to cold
to withstand the rigour of an English winter, as,
for example, Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Stocks, and
similar plants. Frames are also exceedingly
useful, as they may be moved from place to place
and put over beds of various plants, either to
bring them forward, or as a protection from cold.
They are also much in demand during spring
for “hardening off” numerous plants before their
exposure to the open air. Cuttings of Chrysan¬
themums may be inserted in them, and if there
be no room in the heated pits, pots of Sweet
Peas may be forwarded in them for planting
out later on.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Ii the weather be frosty wheel manure on to
all vacant ground, to be dug in as soon as con¬
ditions are favourable. Clear up any weeds
and other rubbish which may have accumulated
during boisterous weather. When atmospheric
conditions permit, prune and nail deciduous
climbers and other shrubs. Push forward any
ground work that can be done before tasks of
a more urgent character reveal themselves.
Should there be very severe frost it may be
necessary to protect some of the more tender
plants, such as Magnolia grandiflora, Euonymus,
Tea Roses, Escallonias, Ceanothus, &c. Nothing
is more suited to this end than bracken. Ground
around the roots of plants covered with decaying
leaves will be hindered from becoming frozen.
Occasionally deciduous trees and shrubs may
be planted, and many hardy plants may be
divided and replanted.

FEBRUARY.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — -Many Odontoglossums
of the crispum type will now be showing their
flower-spikes, and these should be carefully in¬
spected every day for slugs and snails, which
are particularly fond of them. If the past
month has been severe, rendering much fire-
heat necessary, thrips will most probably have

4

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

made their appearance. Should any be visible, I
dip the plants occasionally in soft-soap and I
water. 0. citrosmum will also have commenced
growth, and should be repotted where neces¬
sary, before the roots are far advanced. Some
of the winter-flowering section of Cattleyas and
Delias will also be starting, and will therefore
need attention. Any which require repotting
or surfacing should be attended to. C. labiata
and C. Dowiana will be the first to require care.
Good fibrous peat and clean crocks only should
be used. Any Dendrobiums which have finished
their flowering period and are starting afresh
should also be potted or put into fresh baskets as
need arises. Vanda Amesiana, V. ccerulea, and
various other orchids which require repotting,
should be attended to on the first available
opportunity.

Towards the end of the month, when the days
lengthen and the sun has more power, it may
be found advisable and necessary to put up the
blinds, for many plants suffer more from sudden
bursts of sunshine than if they were exposed
to it continually. Blinds will also prevent the
necessity of damping down too frequently, which,
at this season of the year, owing to extremely
low outside temperature at night, is apt to cause
drip through the condensation of the moisture
on the roof-glass.

Hothouse. — Numerous plants in these struc¬
tures will be starting into growth, therefore
potting will be general. If the necessary mate¬
rials were prepared last month, as then advised,
the work may be taken in hand at the expiration
of the first fortnight. All pots and drainage
appliances should be perfectly clean. Most
stove-plants succeed in a mixture of loam, leaf-
mould, peat, and sand. There are, however, a few
which need a special soil, as, for example, Ixoras,
Dipladenias, Phryniums, &c., which thrive best
in sandy peat. Particular care is needed in
potting. Such plants as have thick fleshy roots
should not have the soil made too firm, while
those of a more fibrous nature take hold much
better if it be pressed down hard.

Gloxinias, Caladiums, and other bulbs, which
have been lying dormant through the winter,
should now be induced to commence growth.
The former succeed best in sandy peat to
which a little loam has been added. The latter
require a rich, light, rough soil, so that their
roots may ramify freely. The temperature should
be increased to 65° at night in mild weather,
and from 70° to 75° in the daytime.

Intermediate House. — Gardenias, and
other plants of a similar nature that require a

temperature of from 55° to 60° and are now
coming into flower, should be exposed to the
light as much as possible. Weak manure-water
should be given to those whose roots fill the pots,
to assist them in swelling their buds. Many of
the Java section of Rhododendrons should be
potted before growth and root-action have made
much progress. Most of the palms find the
temperature of the intermediate house con¬
genial, and those should be potted which require
it. They all succeed well in a compost of light
rich loam, peat, and leaf-soil. They should be
potted rather firmly, as many of them make a
quantity of fibrous roots. Begonias of the
tuberous-rooted kinds should be started into a
renewal of growth.

Forcing House. — Continue to introduce
plants, to bring forward as recommended for
last month. In addition to these, cuttings of
various other plants may be rooted in this struc¬
ture. Among these may be included Perpetual
Carnations for winter flowering, Heliotropes,
Bouvardias, Harrison’s Musk, and various stove-
plants. Many kinds of plants may now be
raised from seed.

Greenhouses and Conservatory. — This
month is usually one of the most pleasant of
the whole year in this department, as there are
so many spring flowers that have been brought
forward in heat, which will now be in bloom.
Much care, however, will be needed to keep the
flowers fresh, as probably the weather may be
very changeable.

Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Primulas, and other
flowers of their class should now be had in
abundance ; while the numerous bulbs that have
been brought forward all tend to make the con¬
servatory gay. Any climbers that need pruning
should receive attention without delay, as the
sap will soon be active.

The propagation of various soft-wooded plants
for summer flowering should be taken in hand.
These include such as Petunias, Heliotropes,
Pelargoniums, and Fuchsias. Fancy Pelargo¬
niums intended for early flowering should be
removed to their final quarters. Many hard-
wooded plants, particularly those that bloomed in
the autumn or early winter, will now be starting
into growth, and these should be repotted. Such
climbers as Lapagerias, Tecomas, Rhynchosper-
mums, &c., that need top-dressing or their border
extending, should be looked to. Heaths and
many New Holland plants will be revealing
their flower-buds. If these require retarding
for any special purpose, this should be done
before the buds get too far advanced. For this

MARCH.

5

purpose they should be kept in the coolest end
of the house, and air admitted on all favourable
occasions.

Pits and Frames.

With warmer weather and an increase in the
latent store of heat, many plants will be starting
into new life. Where Polyanthus, Auriculas,
Stocks, Border Carnations, Aquilegias, Hydran¬
geas, Marguerites, and such-like plants have been
wintered in these contrivances, they should be
looked over, and all dead leaves removed. Air
should be ungrudgingly admitted on all pro¬
pitious occasions. The sun being bright and
the weather mild, the lights may be removed
altogether for an hour or two in the middle of
the day. Make another sowing of Sweet-peas
and other half-hardy annuals, such as Sweet
Sultan, Gaillardias, and Perpetual Stocks for
cutting. Violets will need plenty of ventilation
when the weather is fine. They must, however,
be well covered at night to protect them in case
of frost.

Flower-garden and Pleasure-ground.

When the weather permits, push forward with
all digging and the planting of deciduous shrubs,
as such work should be brought to a conclusion
by the end of the month. Where any new turf
has to be laid, it should be done without delay ;
walks should be regravelled if necessary . Sweep
and roll lawns to give them a tidy appearance.
Look over the flower-beds, and if any of the
spring bedding plants, such as Daisies, Poly¬
anthus, Myosotis, Silene, &c., have been lifted
by frost, press their roots in again. All dead
leaves should be removed. Look well after
mice where Crocuses are growing, as they are
often very troublesome just as the flower-buds
are appearing. Should any pruning remain un¬
done, finish it as soon as possible, as the sap
will very shortly commence to flow.

MARCH.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — Of all the trying periods
of the year March is one of the worst with
which a gardener has to contend. Often there are
cold winds blowing from the north-east, which
lower the temperature of the houses, so necessi¬
tating the consumption of a large quantity of
fuel in order to maintain the requisite degree
of warmth. While these remain, frequent damp¬

ing down must be done, or otherwise the young
growths will soon be covered with yellow fly
and thrips.

Oncidiums of the autumn and winter flower¬
ing section, such as 0. Lanceanum, 0. ampliatum,
0. majus, and 0. pulvinatum, will now require
potting. After this is done, they should be
placed in a temperature of 60° at night, and from
70° to 75° during the daytime. Such varieties
as 0. incurvuni, 0. ornithorhynchum, 0. tigrinum,
0. Marshallianum, 0. crispum, and 0. sarcodes,
should be grown with the Odontoglossums.
Some of the Cattleyas, notably C. Aclandice, C.
superba, and C. Schilleriam, will now need pot¬
ting. Use clean pots and crocks, for these
plants dislike sour soil. The remarks applied to
Laelias last month, hold good during the present
one. All that have commenced new growth
should either be top-dressed or placed in new
baskets if they require it. Dendrobiums will
be gay during March. Those which have finished
blooming should be attended to, and any that
need potting should have this taken in hand
before growth has advanced too far, as the
process retards it. Many of the plants in the
intermediate house will now need removal to
fresh pots. Maxillarias, Lycastes, and Cypri-
pediums that are starting into growth will also
require more root-room. Calanthes that have
been at rest will be resuming active life again.
When the new growths are about an inch long,
they should be potted. The compost used should
consist of rich turfy loam and dried cow-dung.
The base of the old bulb should be just covered
with the soil, and a small stick used to support
each till it has become firmly established in its
new quarters. No water will be needed for some
time except for damping over the surface with
the syringe. They should have a temperature
of 65° at night, and of 75° to 80° by day.
Repot Odontoglossums that are just renewing
their growth. Be careful to keep these plants
shaded from the sun, and use plenty of water,
both at the roots, over the stages, and amongst
the pots.

Keep a little air on, from both top and bottom
ventilators, whenever the weather will permit
the practice. The temperature at night should
be from 45° to 50°, and by day from 50° to 60°,
according to the weather.

Hothouse. — The present is a busy month
in this department, as many plants will need
repotting, cuttings must be put hi, and seeds
sown. Such plants as Crotons, Dracaenas, Alla-
mandas, Alocasias, Marantas, and stove-plants
in general will need fresh pots. Since so many

6

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

plants are required for general house decora¬
tion, they must be provided of various sizes.
To attain this end a variety of cuttings should
he rooted. Among these we may mention An-
dropogon schcenanthus. Aralias of numerous kinds
should be grafted, Ardisias raised from seed,
Curculigo by division, Cissus discolor from cut¬
tings, Eranthemums by cuttings, Cyperus by
taking oft’ the heads with two inches of stem,
and inserting them up to the pennates in a
mixture of peat and sand, Epiphyllums by graft¬
ing, Goldfussia anisophytta, Pandanus, Panicum,
Pellionia, Phrynium, Pilea, Reidia, &c., from
cuttings; and Rivinas, Torenias, Smilax, and
the various forms of Asparagus from cuttings.
These must all have attention, in order that a
regular supply of such plants may be had as
required. Pot up Caladium bulbs and increase
their number by dividing them into as many
pieces as there are eyes.

Intermediate House. — Divide and pot all
such plants as Aspidistras, Olivias, Farfugiums,
Hedychiums, Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, Phor-
miums, Ophiopogons, Rliapis flabelliformis, and
Curculigo recurvata. If this be done this month,
nice well-established plants may be had for use
in the autumn. Sow seed of Aralia Sieboldii,
Grevillea, and other plants, and propagate by
means of cuttings Libonias, Eupatoriums, Be¬
gonias, Linums, and similar plants for winter
flowering. Many of the Ferns will also require
repotting, and any seedlings should be pricked
out into pans as they get large enough to handle.

Forcing House. — Continue to introduce
plants required to be brought into bloom, but
as the days get longer they will come into
flower with far less artificial warmth than in
the previous months. It will therefore be no
longer necessary to place so many in heat at one
time. Cuttings of such plants as Aloysia and
Coronilla should now be rooted. The former
will be found very serviceable, if planted out,
for cutting in the autumn.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — Hard-
wooded plants will require constant attention
during this month. The bright gleams of sun¬
shine and the parching winds have each to be
contended with. The former causes the tempera¬
ture to rise suddenly, while the latter prevents
the admission of air to regulate it. Azaleas that
have been forced, and have finished blooming,
should have the old flowers picked off, and if
the plants require repotting, this should be done
before growth has too far advanced. If there is
no lime in the soil, some good turfy loam may
be mixed with the peat, but where lime is

present, this should be discarded, nothing being
used but sharp sand to mix with the peat.

Camelliaswhose flowering period is over should
be repotted. We do not advocate placing them
in heat to forward their growth, except for the
purpose of causing them to flower earlier, as more
robust shoots are developed in a cooler atmo¬
sphere.

The conservatory will now have a gay appear¬
ance, with the various kinds of flowers that
have been forced; and as a number of these
will be tender, the house should be shaded to
protect them from the direct rays of the bright
sunshine. More water should also be used to
keep the house cool. Sudden changes in tem¬
perature must be avoided by keeping the venti¬
lators in use when possible.

Pits and Frames.

These will now be filled to their utmost
capacity, as many plants which have been occu¬
pying the houses will be transferred to them
towards the end of the month. They will also be
useful in retarding Tulips, Hyacinths, Freesias,
and such-like, and for the protection of the early-
flowering Gladiolus. Florists’ flowers, too, will
still need their shelter. Violet cuttings may be
rooted in them.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Any leaves which have been blown about by
the wind should be cleared away. Edge grass-
walks, sweep and roll lawns, and make all tidy.
When the weather is favourable finish digging
shrubbery borders, and prune any evergreens
that may require it. In warm localities many
half-hardy plants that have occupied cold frames
during the winter may be planted out towards
the end of the month, as may also Carnations,
Pentstemons, and various other plants. Re¬
arrange herbaceous borders, and divide plants
where necessary.

Helianthus, Chrysanthemums, Heleniums,
Pyrethrums, and other autumn-flowering plants,
should have due attention paid to their require¬
ments.

Spring bedding plants will soon be gay, espe¬
cially those planted early in the autumn. Many
of the Violas, Silenes, Polyanthuses, Myosotis,
Arabis, and others that bloom early, will be in
flower.

Keep the beds under inspection and remove
all decayed leaves. In dry weather stir the
surface of the soil with a hoe, to destroy any
little weeds which may be making their appear¬
ance. Put sticks to Tulips and Hyacinths, to

APRIL.

7

prevent them being broken off by high winds,
and pay particular attention to catching mice,
which are often very obnoxious, and do much
harm to Crocuses and Snowdrops. Towards the
latter end of the month plant out Sweet-peas
and other annuals which have been raised in
pots. Protect them with evergreen boughs if
the weather should make it necessary.

APRIL.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — This is a busy month
with all gardeners, as so many plants require
attending to. In this department there is much
necessary work, caused by the rapid growth
and development of plants under the fostering
influence of increased sunshine and longer days.
Coelogynes will have finished their flowering
period, and therefore will either need potting
or fresh surfacing. Those of the cristata type
do best in baskets suspended from the roof.
Many of the Cypripediums and Dendrobiums
will also need repotting as they start into fresh
growth; as will likewise Epidendrums, Masde-
vallias, Phaius, Sobralias, &c. The two last-
named require rather large pots, and should be
grown in a mixture of turfy loam, peat, leaf-soil,
and sand. The pots should be well drained, as,
during the growing season, these plants consume
abundant supplies of water. The former does
well in the hothouse or any place where it
can have bottom heat. Shade, however, is
necessary, or the leaves may scald. Vanda teres
will now be showing flower and should be shaded
from the sun. Any of the other species that
need potting should be looked to, as, if left to
themselves, they are apt to become leggy.
Attend to Cattleyas, and repot or surface any
which are commencing growth. As the weather
becomes milder there should be a free circula¬
tion of air, but cold draughts must be carefully
avoided. The Odontoglossum house will not
need fire-heat, unless an occasional frosty night
should make an exception. Keep the stages,
paths, and pots well moistened by damping
down two or three times daily. The plants
may also be syringed both morning and evening.
If the sphagnum is growing well, it may be
taken as a sign that the plants are receiving
the right treatment. The Dendrobium house
requires to be kept at a temperature of 70° at
night during mild weather, but may be allowed
to fall 5° or 10° if the season is cold, as too

much fire-heat is harmful, and encourages insect
pests. The plants in active growth may be
watered from above with a rose. Shade from
the direct rays of the sun, but raise the blinds
as soon as the sun is off them, in order that its
rays may keep up the temperature of the house.

Hothouse. — The greater part of the potting
in this department will have been finished, ex¬
cept in the case of young plants that have been
propagated from cuttings or seed. Do not on
any account allow these to become either pot-
bound or overcrowded in the seed-pans, for if
either of these contingencies arise, the plants
will become stunted in their growth or spindly
while young.

All seedlings should be kept as near the glass
as possible, and those newly placed in small
pots should be kept close and shaded from the
sun.

Pot up Achimenes, Gesneras, and Gloxinias,
and start them into growth. Continue to pro¬
pagate such plants as Euphorbia jacquiniceflora,
Ixoras, Begonias, TEschynanthus, Acalyphas,
Dracaenas, Coccocypselum discolor , Pandanus, Gar¬
denias, and Thyrsacanthus rutilans, as many of
them will be useful either in producing a supply
of flowers or furnishing plants for house deco¬
ration. Shade will be needed whenever the sun
is bright, and this will prevent the necessity of
too much watering. Keep the syringe well at
work amongst the foliage, in order to destroy
all insect pests. The temperature should vary
from 65° at night to 85° by day under sun-
heat.

Intermediate House. — Rhododendrons of
the Javanicum type will now need special care.
They must be potted firmly in peat, and after¬
wards carefully watered. Streptocarpus will now
be in bloom, and if seed is needed, the flowers
must be kept dry. Pot on seedlings as they
get large enough. Many palms will also need
looking after, as thrips are nearly certain to make
an appearance. Air should be admitted liberally
on all favourable occasions. The temperature
should range from 55° at night to 65° or 70°
by day.

Forcing House. — Sow seeds of Ricinus,
Tobacco, Solanums, and other plants of orna¬
mental foliage, to produce, early in the month,
plants for use in sub-tropical gardens later on
in the year. If these are grown on in a brisk
heat till the middle of next month, and then
gradually hardened, they will become large
plants by the time it will be advisable to plant
them out. It will not be necessary to introduce
any more hardy shrubs to be forced into flower-

8

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

ing, as so many other things will now be coming
into bloom naturally. Many cuttings, neverthe¬
less, will need to be put in for the purpose of
furnishing the flower-garden during summer,
and no better place can be found for them than
the forcing house.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — The

latter will now be gay with the various plants
that have been pushed forward into early flower,
and a great number of hard-wooded New Hol¬
land plants which have their natural period of
efflorescence at this time of the year. There are
several Acacias, Chorizemas, Clematis, Aphel-
exis, Pimeleas, Leschenaultias, Hydrangeas,
Roses, &c. These, together Avith bulbous and
herbaceous plants, will make a fine display.
Care must be taken, however, not to overcrowd,
as is much too often the tendency when there
is such a tempting array of floAvering plants.
Propagate such things as Francoas, Pleromas,
and Bochea falcata. Soav Mignonette, Rhoclantlie
Manglesii, and other hardy and half-hardy an¬
nuals, to give a supply of cut flowers and deco¬
rative plants. Tuberous Begonias should also
be potted for floAvering later on. The pretty little
Grassula jcisminoides and other species should be
rooted, so that good plants may be had for
another season. Fancy Pelargoniums will be in
active grorvth, and as the pots get filled Avith
roots, they should be supplied with Aveak manure-
Avater, to assist them in sending up strong trusses
of flowers. Fuchsias that were started last
month Avill now need repotting. Cuttings may
also be rooted, to give good plants for autumn
floAvering.

Pits and Frames.

Propagate Dahlias, Cannas, Zonal and other
Pelargoniums, for floAvering in Avinter, Helio¬
tropes, and other bedding plants. Pot off Car¬
nations that Avere rooted in heat last month.
Harden bedding Pelargoniums and other plants
of a like nature. Soav seeds of Asters, Stocks,
Balsams, Chinese Primulas, ornamental grasses,
&c. Plant out herbaceous Calceolarias, Pansies,
Hollyhocks, Pentstemons, Gladiolus, &c., to-
Avards the middle of the month, or, in warm
sheltered situations, at the beginning of it. By
so doing more room in the frames Avill be avail¬
able for less hardy subjects.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Evergreen shrubs, such as Hollies, Rhodo¬
dendrons, Kalmias, and Andromedas, should
lie planted in shoAvery Aveather. Tidy up all
herbaceous borders, and do eArerything in the

Avay of transplanting, &c., not already done
Avithout delay. Grass Avill noAV be groAving Avell
on the laAvns, and Avill need cutting. It should
be SAvept first, then rolled, after which the
machine may be run over it. Edge and clear
up gravel Avalks, and give immediate attention
to any re-gravelling Avliich may be necessary.
Look over and prune Roses at the beginning of
the month, and replace with others all which
have succumbed to the winter frosts. Spring
bedding should be looking very bright at this
season, as most of the plants Avill be in floAver.
Keep the edges of the beds trimmed, and clear
off all decayed leaves or other rubbish that may
have been bloAvn on by the winds.

MAY.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — Many plants Avill iioav
have reached their full development Avith regard
to size, and Avhen such have got firmly estab¬
lished in the neAv material in Avhicli they Avere
potted plenty of Avater should be afforded them.
Sobralias should be potted before groAvth is far
advanced. These plants succeed best in a light,
rich compost, in which their thick, fleshy roots
can more easily push their Avay and ramble at
will in search of nutriment. Odontoglossum In-
sleayi, 0. 1, leopardinum, and other Ararieties of this
section should also be potted and groAvn in the
Mexican or intermediate house. Other occu¬
pants of this structure Avill also need attention.
Zygopctalums, which should have a place in all
gardens on account of the fragrance of their
floAvers, should iioav be potted. They thrive
most conspicuously in a mixture of good fibrous
loam, coAv-dung, crocks, and a little peat. They
must be very carefully drained, as they are
moisture-loving plants. Phalaenopsis that le-
quire fresh pots, baskets, pans, or blocks, should
be accommodated therewith. This lovely tribe
is not so difficult of management as some people
suppose if they receive proper attention. They
should be kept shaded from the sun, have a
uniform temperature, with a humid atmosphere.
Many Cattleyas will be in floAver during this
month, and these, if possible, should have a rather
more airy atmosphere than the others to pre¬
vent their flowers from spotting. When floAver¬
ing is over look to their roots, and if any
require potting this should be done. More
moisture should afterwards be alloAved them.
Odontoglossums of the crispum type Avill be

MAY.

9

expanding their flowers. Shade for these will
be a very essential requirement, and plenty of
water must be kept about the paths and stages.
The top and bottom ventilators should also be
•opened when the weather is warm so that the
house may be kept as cool as possible. Den-
•drobiums of the densiflorum type, that is, all
those with persistent foliage, will be going out
of flower. As soon as the flowers are faded the
plants should be potted in order that their roots
may be as little injured as possible. After this
operation they should be subjected to a tem¬
perature of 70° by night and from 80° to 90° by
day, according to the weather. Syringe the
plants over the foliage twice daily during warm
weather, and shade should be afforded at all
times when the sun is bright.

Hothouse. — -Most of the plants that were
potted in March will by this time have got
well rooted, so that liquid manure may be given
where it is intended to keep them growing.
Plants of Allamandas, Stephanotis, Dipladenias,
•&c., will produce more flowers if liberally treated
thus. Many of the fine-foliaged plants and
palms will also be benefited by applications of
some description of stimulant. With increased
heat various insects will become troublesome.
It will therefore be necessary to prevent their
ravages. Syringe or dip the plants frequently
with some insecticide. Start plants of Poin-
settia, and when the young shoots are forward
enough they should be taken off and l’ooted in
•close, moist heat. Euphorbia jacquiniceflora may
also be propagated now. The temperature at
night should be about 70° Fahr., with an in¬
crease of 10° to 20° by day under sun-heat.
Shade in bright weather, but draw up the
blinds early, and close the house so as to main¬
tain a good night temperature without the
assistance of much fire-heat.

Intermediate House. — Pot on Bouvar-
dias as they require it, and towards the end of
the month, when they are well rooted, remove
them to a cooler structure where they may get
more air. Gardenias will be flowering freely,
and Avhen new growth is made cuttings should
be taken off and rooted to give young plants.

Many Ferns will now be resuming active
growth. Shade should be afforded these, or
the young fronds may get scalded. Pot up
any which require it, and keep remainder well
watered.

Forcing House. — It Avill not be found
necessary this month to push forward any hardy
shrubs for decorating the conservatory, as plenty
of flowers Avill be in bloom under the natural

influence of the sunshine. There is, hoAvever, a
number of useful plants that may be caused to
floAver which Avould not othenvise do so till a
much later period of the year if not forced.
Take, for example, Tuberoses, Lilium Harrisii,
and some other choice floAvers. It Avill there¬
fore be necessary, if a quantity of flowers are
required for cutting, to bring them forward
artificially.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — Hard-
Avoocled plants of various kinds will hoav be in
bloom, and when their floAvers are over the
plants should be cut back to induce them to
make a clean growth for another season. The
potting of plants of this kind should be attended
to, especially Azaleas, Pimeleas, Cassias, Heaths,
&c. The soil must be pressed down firmly, as
othenvise the roots Avill not take hold of it. The
plants must be Avell syringed to keep doivn in¬
sects. The conservatory should be kept shaded,
and air admitted night and day, in order that
the floAvers may last as long as possible. Any
plants, as, for example, Pelargoniums, that are
subject to the attacks of aphides, should be
cleansed thoroughly before their introduction to
the conservatory, as at this time of the year
these pests increase very rapidly.

Pits and Frames.

Violets that Avere rooted in these should be
planted out in the open ground early in the
month, and their places reoccupied Avith bed¬
ding plants. Perpetual Carnations, which Avere
rooted early in the season, Avill hoav require to
be potted, and various plants from the green¬
house may be placed in the pits, &c., as space
becomes vacant. Begonias of the tuberous-
rooted section Avill need potting, and no more
suitable place can be found for them than in
these structures. ToAvards the end of the month
Chrysanthemums Avill require to be put into
their floAvering-pots and removed to the open.
See that these pots are properly drained, for
Avithout this precaution they may become water-
logged. Various kinds of herbaceous plants
Avhich Avere propagated from cuttings put in
during the autumn should uoav be transferred
to the open. This Avill give space for other
occupants of a more tender nature, such as
Balsams, Celosias, Solanums, Ricinus, &c.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

The present is a busy time Avith gardeners
as many summer-floAvering plants may now be
placed in their permanent quarters. In warm
and sheltered situations Calceolarias, Verbenas,

10

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Stocks, Asters, and similar plants may be put
out in the early part of the month. These may
be followed by Pelargoniums, Petunias, Fuch¬
sias, and Begonias. Annuals may also be sown
to procure a succession to those sown early last
month. Sow also Perpetual Stocks for autumn
flowering. Stake and tie any plants which
require it, taking care not to leave the ties too
tight. Grass usually grows very fast during
this month, but it should be kept well under at
any cost. Walks and beds should be edged, and
nothing omitted which tends to give them a
tidy and neat appearance. Should the weather
prove dry it will be necessary to water all
newly-planted shrubs and plants. When this
has to be done give a generous soaking, not a
mere dribbling over the surface. Keep the hoe
at work among seedling plants to check weeds,
which at this time of the year grow at a great
rate.

JUNE.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — The sun will now have
great power, therefore it will be necessary to
pay much attention to shading. Neglect of this
precaution is productive of more harm than
any other omission. If plants that have been
kept in shade happen to be exposed to sunshine
during the hottest part of the day, they are
certain to suffer in consequence. Verb. sap.
Calanthes will now be growing rapidly, and
should have an ample provision of water, both
at the roots and over the foliage. Dendrobiums
also will be in active growth, and will therefore
need plenty of moisture. A number of the
“ cool ” Oncidiums will require potting or top¬
dressing during the month, to give them fresh
vigour. Brassias will generally be out of flower,
and they should likewise be attended to, as
regards potting, &c., before newroots are formed.

As Cypripediums of different varieties are
mostly now out of bloom, they should be potted
as growth commences.

A great number of Cattleyas will have finished
flowering ; there are, however, some which bloom
during the present month. As they go out of
flower and start to make roots, the supply of
moisture should be increased. It is a mistake
to allow the flowers to remain on the plants too
long, as they have a tendency to exhaust them.
One of the chief points in the successful culti¬
vation of these plants is the keeping them in a
uniform temperature, with plenty of light, but

shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Air
should be freely admitted, but cold draughts
must be avoided. Look well after all kinds of
insects and other vermin, such as snails, for
they are very troublesome.

Hothouse. — Pay close and unremitting
attention to the inmates of this department, for
insects of all kinds thrive wonderfully under
the genial heat there afforded. Sponge, syringe,
or dip any that show signs of these obnoxious
creatures.

Many of the summer- flowering plants will
now be in full bloom, as, for example, Dipla-
denias, Ixoras, Allamandas, Clerodendrons, &c.,.
and all such should receive every necessary care,
and not be allowed to deterioiate for want of
moisture. Many fine foliage plants will also-
be making active growth, and these should be
liberally treated. Pot up a batch of Caladiums
for late use. Bulbs started in this month will
make a fine show till late in the season. Pot on
young plants as they require it, taking care to-
allow none to suffer through becoming pot-
bound.

Such plants as Torenias, Acalyphas, Ardisias,.
Winter-flowering Begonias, Epiphyllums, Eran-
themums, Euphorbia jacquinicefloi'a, Goldfussia,
Justicia, and other winter-flowering kinds should
be placed in heated pits, where they may have
the benefit of sunshine to ripen their wood.

Palms of all kinds will now be making active
growth, and should have plenty of water, as.
otherwise their fronds will be imperfect. Attend
to the potting of ferns before they become pot-
bound, or it will be difficult to get the water
through the old ball afterwards.

Intermediate House. — The first batch of
Bouvardias should now be put into their flower¬
ing-pots, using for the purpose a light rich
compost. Do not pinch them subsequently, but
allow all shoots to grow up strong. Heliotropes,
for winter-flowering should now be potted up.
These plants should on no account be allowed
to get pot-bound, or they will not make satis¬
factory progress. Tuberoses should be potted,
and if, after they have started, they are taken
and plunged in a cold frame, they will give a
supply of flowers through the autumn and winter-
months.

Pot on seedlings of Celosias, Cockscombs,.
Streptocarpus, &c., as they become large enough
to handle, and shade for a time till they have-
got well established, then expose to the sun.
Gloxinias, Achimenes, and Gesneras should be
potted as they require it.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — Many'-

JULY.

11

climbers in these structures will now be making
active growth, and as the young shoots of some
are very susceptible to the attacks of slugs, a
search should be made for these, late each night
and early in the morning.

Lapagerias, Passifloras, Habrothamnus, Cho-
rizemas, Kennedyas, Jasminums, Solarium jasnvi-
noides, Clematis indivisa, and some others will
need a quantity of water to keep them growing.
Cyclamen should be potted on into larger pots
before they become pot-bound, as should also
the early batch of Primulas and Cinerarias.
Hard-wooded plants will, towards the end of
the month, have completed their growth, and
many of them may then be placed out-of-doors
in a sheltered place on a bed of ashes. Pelar¬
goniums, both show and French varieties, will
now be in full bloom, and should therefore
receive every attention in the way of watering.
If the soil be allowed to get dry the flowers will
not open properly, neither •will they last so long.
Plenty of air should be allowed them by night
and day, unless the weather is cold.

Pits and Frames.

Zonal Pelargoniums for winter flowering
should be potted on as soon as the roots reach
the sides of the pots. Plant out Richardias,
Solanum capsicastrum, and other things, to be
lifted in autumn for flowering in winter. Pot on
Perpetual Carnations, Fuchsias, Sweet-scented
Geraniums, Aloysia citriodora, Celsias, Begonias,
&c., intended for autumn and winter decora¬
tions. Do not permit any to suffer through want
of water. Chrysanthemums that have not yet
been placed in their flowering-pots ought to be
so treated without delay. Propagate Petunias,
Marguerites, and such plants, for late use. Sow
Mignonette in pots for the conservatory. Stake
and tie all such plants as require it.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Sow seeds of biennials and perennials thinly,
in order that the plants may not become over¬
crowded. The following is a good selection : —
Anemones, Wallflowers, Sweet Rockets, Polyan¬
thus, Foxgloves, Canterbury Bells, Lunaria,
Chelone, &c.

Thin out annuals as they become large enough,
and finish planting bedding plants. Every oper¬
ation should be performed at its proper time.
When flower-beds have to be cleared of winter
and spring bedding-plants, this should be done
as each variety goes out of flower, and they
should be replaced by those that are to occupy
the beds during the summer. Sub -tropical

plants may be put out now, as the weather will
be sufficiently warm for all kinds of half-hardy
plants. Water liberally in the event of hot
and dry weather. Herbaceous borders will need
much care, as a number of plants will require
staking, and others cut down, as they cease
flowering, to make room for those which tend
to spread.

The rose-garden will now be gay, but when
the flowering season is past the beds look untidy,
unless something be planted amongst them.
Gladiolus started in pots may be turned out
here, as they make a grand display during the
autumn season. Any shrubs which have been
used for forcing may be turned out. Cut down
Deutzia gracilis to cause it to make new growth.
Dahlias and other tender plants ought not to
be planted out till all danger of frost is at an
end, for if once cut down they will not grow
satisfactorily afterwards. Keep the grass cut
short, and see that neatness prevails every¬
where.

JULY.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — Many Cattleyas will
still be in bloom, among them being C. Gaskel-
liana, C. Warneri, C. gigas. While they are
flowering it will be necessary to keep them
well supplied with water, for at this warm
season of the year the flowers would soon fade
if they were allowed to get dry. When flower¬
ing is over, less water will be needed. At the
same time they must not be allowed to dry up
in the heated atmosphere. Air should be freely
admitted at all times during this month, but
cold draughts at night must be avoided. Lcelia
purpurata and some others of that class will need
looking over, and if any require potting, this
should be done. Dendrobiums in full growth
must be freely supplied with water, both at the
roots and overhead. They should also be kept
in a high temperature. Close the house early
so that the thermometer may indicate 90° to
100° F. with the sunshine. Odontoglossums
should be kept as cool as possible by a free cir¬
culation of air. Plenty of moisture on roots,
paths, and stages alike must be given, with
shade constantly when the sun is bright. When
available use rain-water for syringing, as this
does not discolour the leaves. Calanthes, Phaius,
and others with large leaves will need plenty of
water with a high temperature to promote as
free growth as possible, for unless this is made

12

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

during bright sunny weather, it is often neces¬
sary to use increased fire -heat in autumn to
mature the growth. If insects of any kind
make their unwelcome appearance, they should
be promptly dealt with by either dipping the
plants in soft-soap solution or by sponging,
taking care not to injure the tender foliage.

Hothouse. — -As the heat increases, con¬
siderable attention will be requisite to keep
insect pests in check, as they increase and
multiply exceedingly fast. Mealy-bug is one of
the most obnoxious of these that the gardener
has to contend with, but every effort should be
made to eradicate it. Thin out and regulate
shoots of Clerodendron Balfourianum, Stephanotis,
and other stove climbers that they may not
become overcrowded. Where plants for table
decoration have to be grown to a considerable
extent, a suitable selection of these should be
made and put forward for the purpose. By
potting them now they will become rvell estab¬
lished by autumn, so that there will be less
risk on removing them to a lower temperature.
Plants for this purpose should be allowed
plenty of room, that they may be thoroughly
developed. Cocos Weddeliana, Cyperus alterni-
folia variegata, Arabia Veitchii , A. V. gracillima,
Asparagus plumosus nana, Crotons of sorts,
Dmccena gracilis, I). rubra, and others of like
character, Eulalia japonica, Caladium argyrites,
Pandanus Veitchii, P. javanicus, small plants of
Ardisia, and othffr berry-bearing species. Seed
of the Common Asparagus may also be sown
in pots to supply greenery during the winter
months.

Intermediate House. — Celosias, Cocks¬
combs, Torenias, and various other free-flower¬
ing plants of similar nature that are grown
for the object of furnishing the conservatory,
should be potted on as they require it, and
fresh seed should be sown to provide plants
to take the place of those which have finished
flowering. Gloxinia plants in flower should
be kept rvell shaded from the sun, and any
varieties that it is thought desirable to increase
should have some of the best leaves removed
for this purpose. If these leaves have the
main ribs cut through with a sharp knife, and
are then pegged on the surface of pans filled
with a mixture of finely-sifted peat and sand,
afterwards being plunged into a moderate hot¬
bed, they will soon form corms. These, by the
end of the season, will have grown large enough
to make strong plants the follorving year.

Achimenes and Gesneras should be staked as
growth proceeds to prevent them bending down.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — Most
of the hard-wooded plants will by this time
have completed their growth, and may be stood
in shaded situations out of doors, where they
will thrive far better during the next three
months than under the heat of a glass structure.
Their places may be occupied by some of the
more tender flowering plants, or for growing
on Fuchsias, Balsams, Campanula pyramidalis,
tuberous-rooted Begonias, and similar things
for decorating the conservatory, as it will be
necessary to make frequent changes in the
latter structure at this time of the year, if it
is to be kept tidy, for, owing to the heat,
flowers soon fade, and on that account necessi¬
tate constant removals.

Pits and Frames.

This is a good time to layer Perpetual Carna¬
tions for winter flowering. If the pots can
be plunged to their rims in an old hot-bed, and
plenty of room allowed between them, so that
the shoots can be brought down and pegged
into the soil, they will soon take root. When
layered they should be well watered, and after¬
wards covered with the lights and shaded from
the sun. Plants rooted from cuttings in early
spring will need potting on, and either standing
on a bed of ashes in the open, or in a cold
frame, where they can be protected in case of
heavy rain.

Mignonette for winter flowering should now
be sown. If the weather be hot and dry, shade
till the seedlings appear above the soil. Zonal
Pelargoniums for winter flowering should also
be put into their permanent pots, and after¬
wards stood on a bed of ashes in the full sun¬
light. Heliotropes, Bouvardias, Primulas, and
Cinerarias will need attention, as the plants
become sufficiently large to be shifted, for if
they are permitted to get pot-bound, they sel¬
dom make much further progress. Cuttings of
Hydrangea hortensis, Otaksa, and Thomas Hogg,
should be inserted in cold frames to supply
plants which will flower early in spring. Pot
on Eupatorium, Linum trigynum, and other
plants of similar habit for winter blooming.
Sow seed of Cyclamen and Calceolaria where
early plants are required.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Make another sowing of Sweet-peas at the
commencement of the month to give a late
supply of bloom, also sow seed of Brompton,
East Lothian, and other Stocks, various her¬
baceous plants, such as Aquilegias, Delphiniums,

AUGUST.

13

Polyanthus, Antirrhinums, Violas, Campanula
pyramidalis, &c. Cuttings of double Wall¬
flowers, Pinks, &c., should also be inserted now.
Lift Anemones, Narcissus, and other roots and
bulbs as their foliage dies down. Many plants
in this department will now be revealing their
dower-spikes, and will therefore need staking
and tying to prevent them being blown about.
Commence budding Roses towards the close of
the month. It is not advisable to begin too
soon, however, in forward districts, as the buds
often start into growth, and on that account
are sometimes killed if severe weather follows.
Cuttings of the half-ripened wood will root
freely at this time of the year if inserted under
hand-lights, or in cold frames behind a north
wall, where there is but little sun. Flower-beds
will now require constant attention, for if the
weather is dry, frequent and copious waterings
will be necessary. Peg down and pinch any
plants growing out of character; remove all
dead flower-stalks to preserve a tidy appearance.
Some of the stronger-growing plants, as Holly¬
hocks, Dahlias, Helianthus, &c., would be greatly
benefited by being watered with liquid manure.
Most of the sub-tropical plants will be making
rapid progress, and will therefore require look¬
ing to. Run the hoe through the beds and
amongst the plants to keep down weeds. Mow
lawns and edge walks ; trim and tie creepers as
growth proceeds, in order to prevent them being
broken off' by high winds.

AUGUST.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — A number of the plants
in these houses will now be in active growth,
and for this reason must be kept warm. Among
these may be mentioned those of the Phalae-
nopsis family, which require a warm, even tem¬
perature. Dendrobiums will still demand plenty
of heat and moisture. The house may be damped
down with manure-water, using the same for the
evaporating troughs. Keep a sharp look-out for
thrips, which are very destructive to the young-
foliage. If any of the weevils are found cut away
the parts affected at once and burn them, as
nothing does more harm to Dendrobes than these
minute creatures. Odontoglossums of the cris-
pum section will generally have gone out of
flower, and some will be starting to develop
new growth. Any that require potting should
be attended to before new roots are formed, as

it is a great mistake to injure them by the pro¬
cess of transplanting to larger pots while in
active growth. See that all pots and crocks used
are quite clean. After potting shade the house
a little more in bright weather, and keep the
atmosphere closer for a short time, till the roots
get active. Odontoglossum vexillarium, 0. Phalce-
nopsis, and some others of the same class, need
a warmer temperature; from 60° to 65° at night
suiting them admirably during this month.
Keep up plenty of humidity in the atmosphere
by constant damping down, and keep a sharp
watch for red thrips, which finds its way into
the young sheaths. Epidendrum vitellinum majus
and some others will be improved by potting
now. They should be grown with the cool
Odontoglossums. Lycastes and Maxillarias will
have completed their growth, so that they will
need less water. The remarks that were given
last month still apply to Cattleyas. When the
nights are cold less air should be admitted,
and a little fire-lieat should be applied to cause
a circulation of air.

Hothouse. — Poinsettias, Euphorbia jacqui-
niceflora, Amasonia punicea, and other winter¬
blooming plants, should be exposed to the sun¬
light for the purpose of ripening their shoots.
This is a good time for potting Anthuriums in
order that they may be well established before
their flowering season comes round. Begonias
of the section flowering in winter should also be
potted on, and kept near the glass, to encour¬
age a sturdy habit. As Caladiums finish their
growth give less water, but do not dry them
off too rapidly.

Where any palms need to be potted, perform
the work during the current month so that they
may become well rooted before the winter ap¬
proaches. Ferns should also receive attention;
particularly a batch of Adiantums for winter
decorations should be potted into pots of a size
larger, and seedlings should be pricked out into
pans or pots for spring use. Take cuttings
of Coleus and other plants of a tender nature,
and root them in gentle heat so that they may
grow bushy.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — -When
the foliage of hard-wooded plants has grown firm,
and before they are taken indoors, is a good
time to look over them and rid them of insect
pests. They may for this end be laid down on
their sides, and washed with the garden engine
or syringe, taking care to cleanse the under sides
of the leaves. If they have two or three similar
dressings they will be freed from insect plagues.
Cuttings of show and fancy Pelargoniums that

14

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Avere put in last month will be ready for potting.
When doing this choose a light, rich soil ; do not
over-pot, and use plenty of drainage material.
Afterwards stand the plants in a cold frame or
on the greenhouse shelf. Fuchsias may also be
rooted jioav to give a supply of young plants for
early display. Rochea falcata will hoav be in
flower. When the floAvers are over take off all
young groAvths for cuttings, and insert them in
a light, sandy soil; then put them on a dry
shelf till rooted. Cactuses will have completed
their groAvth, and therefore will need less mois¬
ture. These plants thrive with abundance of
air and a dry atmosphere. There will still be a
sufficiency of plants in dower for decorating the
conservatory, as, for example, Lilium lancifolium,
Hyacinthus candicans, Gladioli, Hydrangeas, Bal¬
sams, and many other plants of like character
raised from seed; as these finish doAvering fresh
specimens should be introduced to keep up a gay
appearance. As the nights get longer there Avill
be more moisture in the atmosphere, therefore it
Avill be necessary to guard against the damping
od' of doAvers. To avoid this ventilate freely on
all favourable occasions, and do not Avater in the
evening in damp Aveather. Much mischief is
often done among doAvers by keeping the air too
humid. A cool, dry, airy place, shaded from the
sun, is most suitable for nearly all occupants of
the Conservatory Avhile in bloom.

Pits and Frames.

These structures will now be in great demand
for the propagation of plants for bedding pur¬
poses. If Pelargonium cuttings are put in early
there is not so much risk of their damping off
in Avinter as Avhen they are left till next month
before the cuttings are taken. The young plants
become Avell rooted, and consequently can absorb
more moisture. Frames Avill also be required
toAvards the end of the month for the protec¬
tion of the more tender plants and bulbs,
such as Freesias, Belladonna Lilies, Nerines,
Tuberoses, and Yallota. As all these plants,
excepting the drst-named, doAver in the autumn
and Avinter, it Avill be requisite to cover them
Avith lights in Avet Aveather. Early Roman Hya¬
cinths, Polyanthus Narcissus, and the earliest-
kind of Tulips should be potted and covered
Avith ashes. If they can be plunged in a frame
it will be so much the better, as they can then
be had in bloom very early Avithout forcing.
Viola and other cuttings of herbaceous plants
should be inserted so that roots may be formed
before Avinter. Attend to previous remarks

about Hydrangeas, Marguerites, Primulas and
Cinerarias, Calceolarias, &c.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Outdoor Avork during this month is very
heavy, so many plants requiring attention. Layer
border Carnations at the beginning of the month.
Transplant all seedlings of herbaceous plants
that Avere soAvn last month. Cuttings of Pent-
stemons, Antirrhinums, and some of the Phloxes
may also be taken. About the middle of the
month soav annuals for spring bedding, such as
Saponaria calabrica, Limnanthes Douglasi, Virgin¬
ian Stocks, Lastlienia californica, Nemophila in-
signis, Alyssum saxatile, Silene pendula, Myosotis,
&c. Cuttings of choice alpines should noAv be
inserted, as they will then make strong plants
by next spring.

Violets for floAvering in frames during Avinter
should have liberal AAraterings with liquid manure
to induce them to make plump croAvns. Gather
lavender and everlasting floAvers Avhere they
are required for indoor use. Pay attention to
staking and tying all herbaceous and other tall-
growing plants. LaAvns Avill iioav need constant
attention, for the grass Avill groAv apace ; walks
must be edged, and the Aveeds kept doAvn.
FloAver-beds should have all the dead floAvers
removed. There is far more pleasure to be de¬
rived from a small place Avell kept than from
a large one in a neglected state. Look to drains,
and see that they are clear, or heavy thunder¬
storms may do considerable damage if the Avater
is unable to get away. Shorten the shoots of
Laurels, Hollies, and other evergreen shrubs
that have groAvn too large for their position.
Hoe and rake borders to keep Aveeds in abey¬
ance.

SEPTEMBER.

Plant-houses.

Orchid Houses. — Many of the Dendro-
biums Avill noAv have reached maturity, therefore
they will not need so much Avater, but Avill want
more air in proportion to ripen their bulbs. If
plants of D. nobile, D. crassinode, D. JV ardianum,
D. heterocarpum, and D. Pierardi be removed
to a cooler house when growth is thoroughly
ripened, they Avill flower much more profusely
than if left in the house Avhere others are still
in active growth. D. chrysanthum Avill noAv be
in flower. As soon as the flowering period is
past, repotting or surface -dressing should be

SEPTEMBER.

15

done, as growth commences immediately after¬
wards. Towards the end of the month shad¬
ing may be dispensed with, as the sun has
not sufficient power so late in the year to
do harm. Some of the early spring-flowering
Cypripediums should be looked over, and if
any need potting this should be done before
the days get too short or the temperature cold.
If the plants are robust, a mixture of good turfy
loam and cow-dung may be used, if the former
can be obtained from ground containing a small
percentage only of lime. For the more delicate
kinds use peat, covering the surface of the pots
with living Sphagnum. Most of the Vandas
belonging to the tricolor section may now be
potted with safety. These plants are apt to
become leggy if left alone too long, therefore
their stems should be shortened and the roots
brought nearer to the pots. This class only re¬
quires something to steady their stems ; so that if
clean crocks and charcoal are used, covering the
surface with a little peat and Sphagnum, it will be
sufficient. The plants will need but little water
at the roots, as the necessary syringing will keep
them well supplied with moisture. They should
be kept under a temperature of from 65° to 70°
at night for the present, with a corresponding
rise in the daytime, according to the weather.
Lcelia anceps, L. albida, and L. autumnalis will
now be showing their flower-spikes, and should
be kept still in a moist state. Most of the Catt-
leyas will by this time have finished growth, so
that watering must be done carefully. Ccelogyne
cristata, Sobralia macrantha, Gymbidium Loicicmum,
and some others will still need good supplies of
water, and if a little liquid manure could be
added to assist them to finish their growth, this
would be very beneficial. As all plants mature
their growth they should be gradually hardened
off, so that they may be the better able to with¬
stand the winter. There are, however, many
species still in active growth which will need
particular care.

Hothouse. — Many winter -flowering sub¬
jects in these structures will now need special
attention, in order to induce them to produce
their blooms at the time required. Cenlropogon
Lucianus, Eranthemum Andersonii, Paiellia macran¬
tha, Plumbago coccinea, Poinsettias, and the winter¬
flowering Gesneras should be exposed to the
sun as much as possible, so that their shoots
may reach their full development. Caladiums
should be thoroughly dried off, and when all
leaves have fallen the pots may be stored away
under the stage, but do not remove them into
a lower temperature than 60°. Gloxinias may

be removed to a house in which the heat does not
fall below 50° If allowed to remain in the warm
stove the bulbs will shrivel, or will, if moisture
is afforded, recommence growing. Ixoras, Cro¬
tons, Dracamas, and other plants should be kept
free from insects. Gardenias and Eucharis for
winter-flowering should have liberal treatment,
with plenty of heat, the temperature being
maintained at 70° by night, with a rise of 10°
in the daytime. Towards the end of the month
all shading may be abandoned, unless it be in
the case of newly-potted seedlings or other plants
having but little root.

Greenhouse and Conservatory. — A

goodly quantity of Mignonette should be sown
during this month — one lot at the commence¬
ment, and another towards the latter end.
Chrysanthemums will demand special care, in¬
cluding disbudding and protection from frost.
Water must be given abundantly, if the weather
be hot and dry, as sometimes is the case, in the
early part of the month. This sometimes occurs,
however, in conjunction with frosty nights, Avhen
it will be found necessary in low damp places
to house them early. The first batch of Zonal
Pelargoniums plunged in ashes should be housed,
as should also the earliest set of Perpetual Car¬
nations and Bouvardias. Advantage should be
taken of the present opportunity, before many
of the hard-wooded plants are taken in, to prune
and tie all climbers, such as Passifloras, Jasminum
grandiflorum, Clianthus, Tecomas, Stauntonias,
and Clematises. These should have their shoots
thinned out and cut away, and after the glass
has been washed most of the hard-wooded species
may be housed. Teas and other climbing Roses
may also be pruned, and the border should be
top-dressed with rich loam and decayed manure.

Pits and Frames.

Pot off Malmaison and other winter-flowering
Carnations that were layered, as advised, last
month. Take up Solanum capsicastrum, Callas,
Bouvardias, and other winter-flowering plants
and pot them afterwards, standing them on a
bed of ashes in cold frames, shaded from the
sun. Cinei’arias will also benefit by being
shifted into larger pots before they become pot-
bound. See that they are shaded from the
bright sun, and ventilate freely. Push forward
the propagation of all plants required for bed¬
ding, as Heliotropes, Coleus, Alternantliera,
Iresine, Ageratums, &c. A good quantity of
the scented varieties of Pelargoniums should
also be put in, as they are very suitable for
cutting.

16

CALENDAR FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Violets for winter flowering must be put
into their permanent positions not later than
the middle of the month. This Avill ensure
their getting firmly established while there
remains sufficient heat in the soil to induce the
formation of young roots. Herbaceous Calceo¬
larias sown last month will now be large enough
for pricking out. The sooner this is done the
better, to prevent the plants from damping.
Tuberoses which have been reared in pits or
frames in the summer should be taken into the
greenhouse as their flower-spikes appear. Cycla¬
men should be potted on for a succession, and
towards the end of the month another sowing
may be made.

Flower-garden and Pleasure Ground.

Proceed with the propagation of hardy border
plants such as Iberis, Helianthemums, Litho-
spermums, Dianthus, Phloxes, &c., by taking
the young side-growths and inserting them in
sandy soil in a cold frame. Where not already
done take cuttings of Violas for spring flowering,
also Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, &c., for the
sooner these are rooted the more surely will
they withstand the winter.

Pay attention to tying and staking plants in
the herbaceous border that still keep in bloom
or have not yet flowered, as the strong winds
generally prevalent are apt to break them down.
Lulbs of all kinds may be planted when the
ground is vacant, but as most beds will still be
occupied this may be deferred till next month.
Grass on lawns usually grows luxuriantly this
month, weeds accumulate rapidly, and leaves are
also troublesome; but for the sake of appear¬
ances all must be so attended to that the garden
may be kept neat and orderly, and thus give
rise to a sense of pleasure.

OCTOBER.

Plant-houses.

Orchid H ouses. — As the sun is on the
wane, and the outside temperature becomes
daily cooler, greater care must be exercised in
supplying water to most of the inmates of these
houses. A great number of Cattleyas will be
at rest, and those which have not yet com¬
pleted their growth will not, owing to the
reduced temperature, require so much water as
those growing during the height of summer.
All Dendrobes which have made their year’s

growth should have a drier temperature, but
such kinds as densiflorum, Farmeri, thyrsiflorum ,
Sillii, and others with persistent foliage should
not be subjected to a lower temperature than
50° to 55° Fahr.; while such as JVardianum,
Findlayanum, nohile, Ainsworthii, and other mem¬
bers of that section may be wintered in a house
whose atmosphere sometimes falls as low as
45° Fahr. There are not many Orchids in
flower in October, but Dendrobium Plialcenopsis,
D. P. Schroederianum, and a few more will be
developing their flower-spikes, and will require
special attention. Vanda Amesiana, Oncidiuni
tigrinum, and some few others will still be in
bloom. Zygopetalums should be examined for
tlirips, which are very fond of the flower-buds
that will shortly be expanding. Calanthes must
be watered sparingly, and the air of the house
in which they are growing should be kept rather
dry. The present is a favourable opportunity
for giving the Orchid houses a thorough wash
down before winter, as many of the Dendrobes
and other species are dormant in cooler houses.
Remove all shingle, gravel, shell, or whatever
the stages may be covered with, and wash it in
boiling water. This process will destroy any
insects which may be lurking in it, and also
remove any soil which may have been washed
out from the pots.

The temperature of the East Indian houses
may be reduced to 65° at night, with a propor¬
tionate reduction in the daytime. That of the
intermediate house should be 60°, and the cool
house 50° to 55°, according to the weather.
With this reduction of heat there should be a
corresponding diminution in the amount of
moisture.

Hothouse. — Cuttings of Croton and other
hard-wooded, fine-foliaged plants may still be
propagated where a good deal of heat is avail¬
able. Those rooted now will make nice plants
for early spring use. Towards the end of the
month cut back Allamandas to within three or
four eyes of the preceding year’s growth. We
do not recommend drying off, but rather the
reverse. Various other stove climbers and de¬
ciduous plants should now be gradually ripened
off, so that they may have a rest for the following
two months. Hothouse plants in flower are not
numerous. There are, however, a few with
brightly-coloured flowers which will be expand¬
ing their blooms, including Poinsettias, Plumba¬
gos, and Lasiandras. These should be afforded
a little more heat, and fully exposed to sunlight.
As the days decline the heat of these houses
should be gradually lessened to 65° by night,

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

481

places they grow freely, the colour of the
blossoms becoming more intense, and the
plants remaining a longer time in flower.
They display their beauty either in the fronts
of large shrubberies and plantations or on the
sides of a carriage-approach to a mansion, and
when distant effect is required, no plant so

admirably answers that end, as their size and
the brilliancy of their colours render them
visible at a greater distance than any other
flowers. They are also most imposing in large
beds. Narcissus may be planted with good
effect amongst them to give early flowers in
spring, and Gladiolus also do well amongst

Fig. 589.— Tree Pceony.

them to give bloom in the late summer months ;
as centre plants in small beds they make grand
objects also. They are invaluable for cut-
bloom, and if gathered in a young state, when
only a few petals show, they keep for a week
in water. The plants are perfectly hardy, and
it is difficult to kill them; they withstand any
amount of cold or heat, and no vermin, insect,
slug, blight, or mildew attacks them; they
grow in any soil, but they well repay for
deep trenching of the land and manuring
highly, and watering in dry weather. Mr.
William Kelway, about twenty -five years
since, got together all the known species, and
hybridized them with great success, raising
scores of new kinds, both double- and single-
flowered, some of them being scented with
Violet or Rose-like perfumes. The leaves are
useful in autumn for decoration. The young
shoots in spring are coloured rich reddish-
brown, changing as they mature to bright green,
again assuming rose-red or purple-brown tints
in autumn.

VOL. i.

The best double varieties of the herbaceous
section are : —

Admiral Dewey, Cyclops, Dr. Bonavia, Duchess of
Somerset, Duke of Devonshire, Ella Christine Kelway,
Emperor of Russia, Galtee More, Geraldine, Glory of
Somerset, Lady Bramwell, Lady Carrington, Langport
Queen, Limosel, Lord Beresford, Maria Kelway, Mrs.
Chamberlain, Mrs. Gwyn Lewis, Peter the Great, Prince
Henry of Battenberg, Prince of Wales, Waterloo.

The best single varieties are

Alton Locke, Calliphon, Cherry Ripe, Countess of
Warwick, Diadem, Dorothy, Duchess of Sutherland,
Emily, Hesperus, Lady Wimborne, Meteor, Millais, Mrs.
J. Gundry, Queen of May, Sirdar, Stanley, The Czar,
Tinted Venus, Viscount Cross.

[W. H. K.]

Pelargoniums. — The origin of the garden
races of Pelargoniums (including what are
popularly known as Geraniums) appears to be
largely due to accident rather than design.
The four sections, viz. Show, Fancy, Zonal,
and Ivy-leaved, each containing large numbers
of varieties, are the result of cultivation and

31

482

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

selection extending over a period of at least
a century, and new varieties are added yearly
by Messrs. Canned of Swanley, Lemoine of
Nancy, Bruant of Poitiers, and others. About
700 varieties were awarded certificates by the
Royal Horticultural Society in the period be¬
tween 1860 and 1890.

Much information concerning the early sorts
can be obtained from Andrews’ Monograph of
the Genus Geranium (1805), which contains
beautifully-drawn coloured figures of the prin¬
cipal species and varieties then in cultivation.
The accidental crossing of one sort with another
evidently occurred in Andrews’ time, who says:
“ The introduction of the African species within
the last twenty years from the Cape of Good
Hope, whose prolific character seems to know
no bounds in the production of endless seminal
varieties, which, Proteus-like, appear in ever-
varying forms, and for which numerous varia¬
tions we are indebted to the industrious bee,
which conveys the pollen from one plant to
another”. Sweet’s Geraniacece, a work of five
vols., published 1820-30, containing 500 coloured
portraits of Pelargoniums, nearly all of garden
origin, gives much information as to their early
history in the garden. About 170 species are
known. They are nearly all natives of South
Africa. Except in botanical collections they
are not recognized garden plants.

The four races or sections of Pelargonium are
cpiite distinct from each other, and except in
one instance they have refused to interbreed,
the exception being the Zonal and Ivy-leaved
sections, an accidental cross between the two
having been secured by M. Lemoine about
twenty-five years ago.

Zonal Pelargoniums.

This section includes the bedding or scarlet
Geranium, Bicolor, Tricolor, and Gold Ger¬
aniums, and the highly-developed Zonal proper,
usually grown for the greenhouse and conserva¬
tory in winter. They are all supposed to be
descendants from P. zonale and P. inquinans.

Cultivation. — Cuttings of these may be struck
at any season of the year. If, however, good
pot-grown plants are desired, cuttings put in in
February are to be preferred, as they start into
growth immediately, and form dwarf stocky
plants by May, when it will be safe to keep
them in a frame to be grown on for flowering
from October on through the winter. When
their flowers are about over, the plants should
be rested in a cool house for a few weeks, keep¬

ing them dry. This drying process tends
greatly to sweeten the soil. The following
February or March these plants should be cut
back, this process providing the needful stock
of cuttings for the spring strike. When they
have broken into fresh growth, they should be

repotted, reducing the balls sufficiently for
them to go back into the same size of pot.
Later in the season, as summer advances, these
older plants will require another shift. When
well established, they will prove useful to follow
the Show and Fancy sections in the conservatory.
Full exposure to light and air is a sine qua non
in Pelargonium culture; without this the stocky
habit so much desired cannot be had.

The stock for late or winter flowering should
be stopped up to the end of August, whilst at
no time previous to this should any flowers be
allowed to develop. When coming into flower,
they need a slight warmth, say 45° to 50° as the
minimum, with a free circulation of air to keep
down any symptoms of damp, These winter¬
flowering plants require careful watering, not
nearly so much being needed as for the plants
that flower earlier in the year. Weak doses of
artificial manure, alternately with farmyard
liquid given weekly, will assist the plants.

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

483

As a variation, a stock of these Zonals will,
if grown as standards, serve a distinctly good
purpose for grouping with other plants of
dwarfer growth. It will probably take two
seasons to obtain a stem of say 3 feet in height
with a little head as a start. These in another
season or two will have formed good heads.
The balls of standards ought to be slightly re¬

duced every spring, otherwise they will get into
too lai'ge pots.

The soil for Zonals should be of turfy loam
and leaf-mould. If, howevei', the latter fails,
use a little peat instead, with silver sand in any
case as an addition.

Double Zonals for Pots.

Emile de Girardin. Rosy-pink.

F. V. Raspail. Crimson-scarlet, good habit.

F. V. Raspail — Improved, flowers and trusses larger
than type.

Gloire de France. Salmon and white.

King of Denmark. Rosy-salmon.

Le Cygne. White, good truss, large full flower.

Madame Lemoine. Clear-pink.

Turtle’s Surprise. Crimson.

White Abbey. White, dwarf, spreading habit.

Single Zonals for Pots.

Amy Amphlett. White.

Charles Maison. Scarlet, fine, very large trusses.

Duchess of Portland. Rosy-pink.

Gertrude Pearson. Pink.

H. Cannell, Junr. Crimson, white eye, flowers large
and full.

II. H. Crichton. Crimson, white eye.

Ian Maclaren. Salmon.

International. White.

Inverness. Salmon.

John Milton. Scarlet, white eye, large and full, free.
Kate Farmer. Salmon.

Katherine Moreton. Salmon.

Lady Chesterfield. Deep-salmon.

Lady Churchill. Salmon, fine form.

Lady Reed. White, and salmon centre.

Lord Tredegar. Dark-crimson.

Madame Jules Chretien. Scarlet, light centre.
Mademoiselle Trine. Soft rose-magenta, large trusses.
Mr. II. J. Jones. Purple.

Mrs. D. Saunders. Pink, shaded.

Mrs. E. Rawson. Orange-scarlet, very free;
large trusses.

Mrs. Gordon. Dark-crimson.

Mrs. Gordon Lindsay. Salmon.

Mrs. Pole Routh. Shaded salmon.

Mrs. Robertson. Pink.

Norah. Soft blush, extra fine.

Opal. Shaded salmon.

Phoenna. Crimson, shaded.

Queen of the Belgians. White.

Royal Purple. Purple, good habit, splendid
trusses.

Rudyard Kipling. Purple.

Sir II. Irving. Rose-magenta, large, free;
dwarf habit.

Snowdrop. White.

T. Hayes. Bright-crimson.

Titania. Crimson, with white eye.

IP. Bealby. Rosy-scarlet.

Golden Tricolor. — Achievement, E. R.
Benyon, Lady Cullum, Louisa Smith, Master¬
piece, Mr. H. Cox, Mrs. Pollock, Mrs. Turner,
Prince of Wales, Queen Victoria, Sophia
Dumaresque, Victoria Regina.

Silver Tricolor. — Charming Bride, Dolly
Varden, Imperatrice Eugenie, Lass of Gowrie,
Mrs. John Clutton, Mrs. Laing, Mrs. T. A. Dickson,
Prince Silverwings, Princess Beatrice, Proteus.

Gold and Bronze. — Black Douglas, Bronze Queen, Em¬
peror of Brazil, Golden Harry Hieover, Her Majesty,
Imperatrice Eugenie, Lulu, Mrs. Harrison Weir, Mrs.
Lewis Lloyd, Prince Arthur, The Dragon, The Shah.

Silver Variegated. — Bright Star, Flower of Spring,
May Queen, Mrs. Kingsbury, Princess Alexandra, Wal¬
tham Bride.

Yellow-leaved. — Cloth of Gold, Crystal Palace Gem,
Golden Fleece.

Show and Fancy Pelargoniums.

The large-flowered or Show varieties (fig. 592)
are the pi'ogeny of P. cucullatum and P. grandi-
■ Jloruni ; the parentage of the Fancy varieties
appears to be unknown. Although not so popu¬
lar as formeidy, they still have many admirers,
lai'ge specimens being not unfrecpxently seen at
provincial flower-shows. Mi’. Turner of Slough
is one of the principal growers of this section,
plants 5 feet in diameter bearing 150 trusses of
flowers being produced by him in about four
years from cuttings.

Culture and Propagation. — Cuttings formed of
well - ripened stocky growths from below the
flowering wood; if inserted early in July in

Fig. 591.— A good example of a pot-grown Zonal Pelargonium in November.

484

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

sandy soil in a frame or on a shelf in a green¬
house, should be well rooted and fit for potting
into 3 -inch pots by the first week in September.
They should be kept in a greenhouse, as near
the roof-glass as possible, for the winter. Early
in the spring they will be fit to place in 5- and
6-inch pots for flowering. As soon as root-action

is again active, they should be stopped to form
dwarf compact plants, once only if to flower in
May, twice if not required until June or July.
These plants will be better than older ones to
grow on for the next season. After they have
flowered, they should be stood in a sunny
position in the open until the cuttings have been
taken, then lay the plants on their sides to
ripen. Early in August these plants should be
cut back severely and near to the first stopping,
and placed in a frame, giving no water except a
daily syringe, until the plants have broken into
fresh growth. They should then be repotted,
reducing the balls sufficiently to get them into
a size smaller pot. In spring they will require
shifting into 6- or 8-inch pots, stopping being
again attended to as advised. Those plants
that are wanted in flower in March or April

should not be stopped during the winter, unless
the growth is well advanced.

Forcing, for early flowers, should be done in
a warm, light house, the plants being hardened
off previous to the flowers opening. When in
bloom they should be kept in a well-ventilated
structure, or the flowers will soon fade. Liquid
manure may be given when the plants are well
established in their last shift. It is always safer
in the winter to keep the plants fairly dry at
the roots until quite active growth is in pro¬
gress. The compost recommended by Mr.
Turner is good yellow loam, well-rotted stable
manure, bone-meal, coarse sand, and charcoal.
For ordinary purposes, two parts of loam to one
part of leaf-soil answers very well.

List of Vakieties.

Shoio.

Achievement. Orange -scarlet, upper petals maroon,
white centre.

Blue Beard. Light-purple.

Claribel. Pure-white.

Conspirator. Rosy-salmon and maroon, light margin.

Curtins. Dark-crimson.

Duke of Norfolk. Crimson-scarlet.

Eclipse. Dark-rose.

Emperor. Light-pink.

Example. Deep-crimson.

Excellent. Light-crimson.

Favourite. Red and maroon.

Heirloom. Rich-rose.

Indian Yellow. Orange-salmon.

International. Bright-rose.

Joe. Rosy-purple.

Mabel. Dark-maroon above, clear narrow margin, rich.

Magnate. Fine dark.

Maid of Honour. Pink.

Marguerite. White and crimson.

Martial. Rich crimson-maroon above, bright margin.

Miss Louisa Coombs. Light-rose.

Mrs. Coombs. White and carmine.

Orient. Rose, shaded orange.

Prelate. Deep-purple.

Prince Leopold. Bright-scarlet.

Prince of Orange. Bright-scarlet.

Princess Maud. Bright-rose.

Princess of Orange. Deep-scarlet.

Purpurea. Rich-purple.

Resolute. Deep-rose.

Royal Albert. Rose.

Royal Ascot. Orange-scarlet.

Sappho. Cherry-rose, dwarf.

Sister of Mercy. Crimson-maroon.

Souvenir. Rosy-purple.

Statesman. Pale-rose.

Decorative.

Alice. Light spotted.

Beauty of Oxton. White and crimson.

Black Diamond. Lilac-purple.

Buffalo Bill. Lilac, blotched carmine, extra large.

Captain Raikes. Crimson, edged white, dark blotch,
double.

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

485

Comtesse de Choiseul. White.

Dr. Masters. Dark-maroon.

Duchess of Edinburgh. White, spotted.

Duchess of York. White and carmine.

Edward Perkins. Crimson-scarlet.

Envperor of Russia. Purple and maroon, banded white.
Empress of India. Rosy -scarlet.

Gold Mine. Orange-scarlet.

Kingston Beauty. White, spotted.

Lady Isabel. Lilac, free, large trusses.

La Ville de Caen. Cerise.

Madame M. Knecht. White.

Madame Thibaut. Rich-rose, eye
and margin white, fringed.

Magpie. White and purple spots.

Marie Malet. Carmine.

Master Richard. Deep-crimson.

Mr. Coombs. Pure-white.

Prince Henry. Crimson.

Purity. White.

Queen Victoria. Rich-vermilion, pale
at margin, semi-double.

Radiant. Scarlet-crimson.

Rosetta. Rosy-purple.

Rosy Morn. Rosy-pink.

Spotted Beauty. Rose, dark ruby-
red spots.

St. Blaise. Deep-crimson.

Cultivation. — As regards propagation and soil
these require the same treatment as the Zonal
section. A stock of these should be raised
from cuttings every year, but instead of pruning
them back for the next season it will be found
better to grow them on, as they do not bear
pruning nearly so well as the Zonals. Being
of a semi-climbing or procumbent habit, they

Fancy.

Ambassadress. Soft lilac-rose.

Delicatum. White and light rose.

Dorothy. White with carmine, mar¬
gin prettily fringed.

East Lynne. Crimson-purple.

Ellen Beck. Soft carmine.

Fanny Gair. Rosy-lake.

Iona. Lilac-rose.

Lady Curzon. White and purple.

Lucy. Crimson and violet.

Medina. Dark, white eye.

Miss E. Little. Rosy-purple.

Mrs. Douglas. Rose and purple.

Mrs. Hart. Crimson-purple.

Princess Teck. White, carmine spots.

Queen of the Hellenes. White, rosy
spots.

Roi dcs Fantasies. Rosy-crimson.

Sir Hugo. Rich-crimson, dwarf.

Sybil. Rosy-crimson and white.

The Shah. Deep crimson-purple.

Thomas Ring. Carmine and white.

Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums.

These are descendants from P. pellatum and
P. hedercefolium. The wonderfully improved
varieties recently raised are said to have had
their origin in a chance cross between an Ivy¬
leaved variety and a Zonal variety, which was
obtained in a garden in Nice by M. Jean Sisley.
Since then others have made the same cross,
and we have now a large number of beautiful
varieties which are of the greatest value in the
garden and greenhouse.

Pig 593.— Ivy-leaved Pelargonium in Hanging Basket.

are excellent for training on screens or trellises,
or as bushes with several sticks as supports.
For covering walls or training up pillars in
greenhouses or conservatories they are admir¬
able, being of rapid growth. For hanging
baskets or large vases, too, they are most
effective (fig. 593).

List of Varieties.

Anna Pfitzer. Salmon-rose.

Beauty of Castle Hill. Rose,

Edith Owen. Magenta.

Flambeau. Scarlet.

Galilee. Soft-pink.

Gloire de Lorraine. Light -magenta.

Jubilee. Reddish-crimson.

486

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

L’ Elegante. White-edged foliage, flowers single.

Liberty. Light-magenta.

Madame Emilee Galli. Pale-lilac.

Marguerite Jacquot. Rosy-pink.

Mrs. Cannell. Soft pale- lilac.

Mrs. Hawley. Bright deep-rose.

Old White. Single, for baskets.

Prince of Wales. Cerise.

Ryecroft Surprise. Salmon-pink.

Souvenir de Charles Turner. Deep-rose.

W. F. Dreer. Magenta-red.

Scented-leaved Pelargoniums.

These are mostly species or varieties modified
more or less by cultivation. They are worth
growing for the fragrance of their leaves alone,
but many of them are also pretty flowering
plants.

Culture. — Generally these require the same
conditions and treatment as the Zonal and Ivy¬
leaved sections. They may be pruned as in
the case of the Shows and Fancies, or grown on
from year to year until they are too large.
When large plants are grown, they are useful
at all seasons, and as the shoots are at times
cut for use in vases, it is not a difficult matter
to keep them within bounds in combination
with occasional staking and tying. Some of
them are not by any means the easiest plants
to manage — some being delicate growers, whilst
others are vigorous for a time, and then go off
suddenly. Firm potting keeps the plants sturdy,
and is conducive to good health. The best
time to repot any that require it is in the early
spring, whether the balls be reduced or not.
Immediately after repotting, close treatment
for a short time will encourage vigorous root-
action; the cool house is then the better place
for them. Large shifts should be avoided; in¬
deed plants which have not been repotted for
three or four years will continue in good health
if cared for as advised in winter. Active growth
takes place in June, when an occasional water¬
ing with sulphate of ammonia, a table-spoonful
in a three-gallon can of water, will benefit them.
Three doses during the season will be ample.
The best position for them is in the open air, in
full sunshine, from the end of May until the end
of September. The foliage of the highly fra¬
grant varieties is excellent for use as pot-pourri
when well dried.

List of Varieties.

Strong Growers. — Capitatum ( rose-scented ), * Purple
or Rollison’s and * Scarlet Unique, quercifolium (true oak-
leaf), radula (balsam-scented), tomentosum (peppermint-
scented), viscosissimum, vars. Pheasant’s-foot and Fair
Helen.

Medium Growers.—* Ardens (scarlet flowers), Attar of

Roses (scent indicated), filicifolium odoratum (Fern-leaf),
fragrans (Nutmeg-scented), graveolens, var. * Pretty Polly
(Almond -scented), Lady Plymouth (variegated), Mrs.
Douglas (dark-zoned), * quercifolium minor (small Oak-
leaf), *Sliottesham Pet (Filbert-scented).

Small Growers. — Citriodora, * Countess of Devon (a
miniature “Fancy”), crispum (Lemon-scented), denticula-
tum major, Lady Mary (small foliage), * Prince of Orange
(free-flowering), Prince of Orange (variegated), radula,
var. * Little Gem (very compact).

* Denotes varieties useful also as flowering- plants. The best
sorts for cutting purposes are capitatum, radula, Attar of Roses,
fragrans, Lady Plymouth, crispum, and Little Gem.

[J. H.]

Pentstemon (fig. 594). — Few hardy plants
have been so much improved during the last
twenty years as the Pentstemon. By crossing

and selecting from P. Hartwegii, P. gentianoides ,
P. Cobcea, and others, florists have obtained a race
of hardy border plants, remarkably floriferous,
large-flowered, and very varied in colour.

Cultivation. — Garden Pentstemons succeed well
in any good soil, but a deep and rather moist
sandy loam is best. If occasionally dressed
with manure and leaf-soil, they produce enor¬
mous spikes of beautiful flowers throughout
summer and autumn. They can be grown in
masses in beds, in groups in the herbaceous

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

487

border, or in the flower-garden to form a centre
to large beds, or mingled Avith some other suit¬
able plant.

Cuttings formed of barren shoots will strike
at almost any time of the year, the best time
being August or September; the softer the Avood,
the more readily do the cuttings root. Leafy
shoots 4 inches long should be taken, cut just
below a joint, and inserted in light sandy soil,
well drained, and in pots or pans in a cold frame.
Or they can be put in a A\rarm border and
covered Avith a hand-glass, shading them from
the sun. Plants that have remained out all
the summer Avill often live through the winter
in the open border, especially if some ashes
are placed about the roots by way of affording
protection in severe weather.

Seeds saved from a good strain generally
yield a large percentage of equally good
varieties. They should be sown in shallow
boxes of good light soil in February or March
in a gentle bottom -heat, Avhere they soon
germinate. When the seedlings are large
enough to handle, they should be pricked off
into other boxes and kept in heat for a time,
hardening them off' before planting them in
prepared beds in May or June. Plant them
about a foot apart each Avay in good soil, and
in dry Aveather occasional Avatering at the roots
will keep them growing. If extra strong plants
are required by May, seed should be sown in
August, and the plants groAvn in a frame
through the winter.

Select Named Varieties.

Adonis. White, suffused with lilac.

Alfred Richet. Bright- vermilion, white throat.

Archibald Colquhoun. Crimson and white, veined purple.

Argou. Bluish -purple, white throat.

Berlioz. Violet-purple, white throat.

Bridesmaid. Large, pure-white.

Charles Street. Pale-lilac, veined crimson.

Compacta. Scarlet, purple, and white.

Conspicua. Violet-purple and white.

David Wood. White shaded purple.

Eclipse. Purplish-crimson, blotched chocolate.

Floribunda. Blood-red, white throat.

George Ulrich. Scarlet, white throat.

Henry Lister. Rosy-purple and white, marked crimson.

Jean Mace. Scarlet, white throat.

Le Niagara. Creamy-white.

Mont Blanc. Pure-white.

Mrs. Bosanquet. Purplish-crimson.

Serenade. White shaded lilac.

Surcouf. Carmine-lake, with chocolate markings.

Tissandier. Rosy-carmine and white, spotted crimson.

Victor Hugo. Dark-lilac, white throat, spotted purple.

William Folder. Rosy-lilac, white throat.

William Lumley. Bright-red, pencilled chocolate.

W. M. Baillie. Bright-scarlet, white throat.

Phlox (fig. 595). — The popular perennial
border Phloxes are said to be the outcome of
a cross between P. paniculata ( decussata ) and P.
metadata, the former Avith tall, erect unbranched
stems, ovate -lanceolate leaves, and large ter¬
minal panicles of lilac, purple, or white flowers ;

Fig. 595.— Phlox.

the latter Avith shorter stems, spotted with
purple, the panicle of flowers narrower, the
flowers fragrant, purple or white. Their progeny
are popularly known as forms of P. decussata.
Many named sorts have been raised, chiefly
by M. Lemoine, Mr. Ivelway, and Mr. John
Forbes, and neAv ones are added annually.
They vary in height from 1 foot to 3 or 4
feet, and there is considerable range of varia¬
tion in the colours of the floAvers, and also in
the shape of the leaves.

Although these plants are not particular as
to soil, they pay for good cultivation. They
are too often left to struggle for existence with
coarse herbaceous plants and shrubs, and even
then they make a good display from July until
the frost stops them. But to have them in
perfection they should be groAvn in beds by
themselves, a feAv large beds in a sunny position

488

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

on a lawn being a suitable place; if planted in
a mixed border they should be set in sufficiently
large groups to be effective, and their root-space
should be kept free from the encroachments of
their neighbours. The soil for them should be
well trenched, and if manure is needed it should
be mixed with the lower spit. A mulch of
short, well-rotted dung or leaf-soil should be
given every year in May. The plants are un¬
fortunately subject in some soils to a fungus
disease which attacks the stems at the surface
of the soil. A good dressing of lime is recom¬
mended as a preventive. It is also advisable
to discard those sorts which are worst affected
by this disease. The plants should be lifted,
trimmed, and replanted if possible in new soil
about every three years.

Propagation. — It is easy to multiply these
plants by means of cuttings taken from the
base of cut-down plants. They should be
placed in a cutting frame in slight heat and
kept close as for cuttings of Chrysanthemums.
When rooted they should be planted in a
nursery bed for a year, where they will grow
into nice stocky plants, ready for the lawn-bed
or border, in March or April. They can also
be raised from seeds sown in a little warmth in
March. The seedlings should be grown on in
a nursery-bed until strong enough to plant in
borders, &c. Of course seedlings cannot be re¬
lied upon as regards colour. The stems are
veiy brittle and easily broken by gusts of
wind; they should therefore be staked early.
In dry weather they require a daily watering.
If the stools show a tendency to over-pro¬
duction of stems in spring, the superfluous
ones should be taken off and used, if required,
as cuttings. In planting the beds, a distance of
about 1 8 inches between each plant is desirable,
and this may prove too close for sorts that
grow with great vigour. No plants are better
adapted for filling large beds which have been
devoted to summer bedding -plants, such as
Geraniums, Calceolarias, &c. There are hun¬
dreds of named sorts; the following is a good
selection : —

White. ■ — * Albatre, Amazon, Bayardere, * Berenice,

* Eden, *Fille d’Eve, * La Neige, Lawrence, Niphetos,

* Purity, Sylphide, The Queen.

White with red eye. — Captain Jackson, Countess of
Aberdeen, Countess of Minto, * Espoir, Longchamps,
Princess of Wales.

Pink. — Alhambra, Baccante, * Belvedere, Eclaireur,
Gilbert, Hamlet, Marquise de Breteuil, Molihre, Mozart,
Mrs. Gladstone, Parthenon, Regulus.

Red. — Angus M‘Leod, Claude Gillie, Coquelicot, Etna,
James Grieve, L’Eclair, Montagnard, * Pandore, Roi
des Roses, Sesostris, Surprise, Tom Welsh.

Purple or blue. — Acropole, Balzac, Bayard, Chateau¬
briand, Duguesclin, Iris, Lamartine, Ledru Rollin, Le
Malidi, Le P. Hacquart, Montrose, Suffrage.

Variegated. — Alcesti, Atlante, Crepuscule, E. Danzan-
villiers, Papillon, * Tunisie.

* These are less than 2 feet high.

Phyllocactus. — A very showy genus of
hothouse plants, well deserving more care and
attention than they usually receive. They are
chiefly of hybrid orison, the largest and best

Fig. 596.— Phyllocactus crenatus.

varieties being mainly descendants from P.
crenatus (fig. 596), P. grandis, and P. Icitifrons.
The rich-coloured Cereus speciosissimus is also
responsible for some of the most brilliant tints.
They have flattened, notched stems, no true
leaves, and the flowers are produced from the
notches on the upper portion of the last-matured
growths. For soil, a light, yellow, fibrous loam,
a fourth part of leaf-mould and a sprinkling of
brick and mortar rubble and coarse white sand
form a suitable mixture. They do not thrive if
over-potted, and, like all plants of the Cactus
order, they require a season of rest in a dry
atmosphere, and also to be kept dry at the roots,
scarcely needing water at all for three months
in winter. Propagation by seed, obtained, if
possible, from cross-fertilized flowers, may result

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

489

in new and improved varieties. Cuttings of the
stems root freely in the spring if placed in a
warm moist house in sandy soil. There is little
danger of losing them except by their damping
off at the base, through over-watering. They
soon fill the pots with roots, when they should
be repotted into 4-inch pots in May or June;
they will not require to be repotted again until
the following March, when they may be put
into 7-inch pots. They should always stand in
a sunny position, quite unshaded, in a warm airy
house. They usually assume a bushy habit, but
if they show a tendency to legginess the tops
of the growths should be removed. It is a
good plan to turn them out-of-doors after mid¬
summer, in a position well exposed to the
sun. Let them have moderate supplies of
water. They should be removed into a warm
greenhouse before the cold nights. Well-
established plants should be started into
growth early in the year in order that they
may make their growth before midsummer,
to be turned out again about that time for the
ripening process. This alternation of growth
and of rest produces in a few years handsome
flowering plants.

Within recent years excellent work has been
done in the raising of new and greatly improved
varieties by French, English, and American
growers.

The best of the species are : — -

P. Ackermanni. Stems broad; flowers rich scarlet.
Mexico.

P. crenatus. Stems very broad ; flowers creamy-white
and orange, fragrant. Honduras.

P. grandis. Large flat stems ; flowers white, fragrant.
Honduras.

P. Hookerii. Stems long ; flowers with long slender
tube, white, fragrant. Brazil.

List op Garden Varieties.

Adonis. Large, rose-pink; a good grower, free.

Agatha. Pink-shaded salmon.

Alice Wilson. Orange-scarlet.

Brilliant. Vivid scarlet.

Cooperii. Creamy-white, a large, elegant flower.

JDelicatus. Pink-shaded salmon.

Ensign. Deep-scarlet.

Exquisite. Charming bright-rose.

Favourite. Pale-rose.

Gilbert Watson. Large white.

Hecla. Light crimson-scarlet.

Homer. Red, violet centre.

Isabel Watson. Plat-stemmed, otherwise like J. T.
Peacock.

Jessica. Light soft-pink.

J. T. Peacock. Rich magenta-shaded violet, large.

Niobe. Deep-scarlet, purplish centre.

Olivette. Rose-carmine.

Orion. Orange-red, shaded with violet-p>urple.

Plato. Brilliant scarlet.

Jlefidgence. Dark glossy scarlet.

Romeo. Light-red, pale-purple edge, distinct.

Saizy Watson. Salmon-pink.

Sirius. Bright rose-pink.

Sunset. Fine rich deep-shaded crimson.

Vesta. Large white.

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) (fig. 597).
— This fine autumn- and winter-flowering plant is
a native of Mexico. The red variety stands un
rivalled for the brilliant colouring of its scarlet

Fig. 597.— Poinsettia.

bracts, which, when well grown, will attain a
length of 9 or 10 inches, lasting long on the
plant. The flowers are yellow, but incon¬
spicuous. There is a white-bracted sort (alba)
that is often grown as a companion to the
above, but is not nearly so effective, although
forming a nice contrast. The double variety
( plenissima ) has the cymose inflorescence
branched, and bearing, within the outer bracts,
tufts of smaller but equally high-coloured
bracts, which mature in succession, and much
extend the flowering season. As a winter plant
for a warm conservatory, the Poinsettia has few
equals. It can be brought into bloom at dif¬
ferent times, giving a succession for eight or ten
weeks. The flower-like heads of leafy bracts last
long when cut, if kept in water.

490

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

Propagation. — The Poinsettia increases readily
from cuttings in spring, taken off with a heel
when the shoots are about 4 inches long, in¬
serted in sand, and placed in a brisk heat;
when rooted, put them singly in 3- or 4-inch
pots, in good turfy loam to which is added
one-sixth of leaf -mould with a little sand;
they should be kept in a temperature of 68°
or 70° at night, with a rise of 10° by day.
The plant has an almost uncontrollable habit
of running up with a single straight shoot
without any disposition to branch. Young
plants are grown on without stopping, but to
prevent their getting up too high they should
be kept all through the growing season with
their heads almost touching the roof, and
allowed sufficient air when the weather is fine;
give enough water, and as soon as the pots get
filled with roots move them into others 6 or 8
inches in diameter, using soil similar to that
for the last potting, and treat as before, syring¬
ing them freely overhead in the afternoons.
Towards the beginning of August, when they
have made plenty of roots, they may be gradu¬
ally inured to more air, and either removed to
a house without fire-heat, where they can have
air night and day whilst the weather is warm,
or stood out-of-doors under a south wall in the
full sun for a month; but before there is any
approach to cold nights they must be taken
inside and kept in a temperature of 50° during
the night. Some of them may be put into a
warm house in October, where they will come
into flower, the remainder being brought into
heat later on for succession. In a temperature
of 55° the flowers last longer than if kept where
it is hotter.

Where plants are wanted dwarf, say from
8 to 12 inches high, and in 6-inch pots, about
the beginning of September, cut the shoots half¬
way through, 6 or 7 inches from the top, and
leave them in this state upon the plants for ten
days until the cut portion has become callused
over; then completely sever them and place in
3-inch pots in a mixture of half sand and loam
in a close frame, where they will root in about
three weeks, after which give air gradually, and
ultimately, as soon as they evince ability to bear
it, fully expose them; move into 6-inch pots in
soil as before advised, and keep them as near
the glass as possible. If they show a disposi¬
tion to get taller than desired, again half-sever
them at a similar distance below the tops, and
after they are callused as before, take them off
and root them.

When the flowering is over, put the plants

in any out-of-the-way place where a tempera¬
ture of 55° can be kept up, and here let them
remain until May, Avhen they should be cut
down and placed in a temperature of 60°.
They will here soon push into growth, when
cuttings, as required, can be taken off, and the
old plants destroyed or grown on if wanted.
Where it is desired, they can be grown in
succeeding years to a large size by giving them
more root-room, cutting them well back each
season before starting into growth, and re¬
moving the exhausted soil, which the spare
nature of the roots allows to be readily shaken
away.

Primrose and Polyanthus ( Primula
vulgaris). — One of the prettiest of native plants,
whether wild in a wood or copse or hedge¬
row, or cultivated in the garden. It is most
effective when planted in the wild garden in
imitation of its position in nature, and it may
be used as an edging to a flower border in
partially shaded positions. Under cultivation
it has varied considerably, perhaps the most,
remarkable of all the varieties thus obtained
being the blue-flowered seedlings raised by Mr.
G. F. Wilson. A very large-flowered form ol
the type has lately been raised and distributed
under the name of Evelyn Arkwright (fig. 598).
There are also purple, crimson, rose, and white
sorts, some of them double-flowered. They
reproduce themselves fairly true from seeds,
which should be sown early in spring in boxes
or pans in a cold frame, pricking the seedlings
out on a moist shaded border as soon as they
are large enough to handle. If to be used for
filling beds for spring effect they should be
grown on in rich, moist soil in a shaded position
in a nursery or kitchen -garden bed until
October, when they may be lifted and planted
in the flower-beds, watering them in freely if the
weather be at all dry. Here they may remain
till May, when they will require fresh quarters
for the summer. They should be lifted and
broken up if an increase of stock is required;
indeed single offsets make the best plants by
the following spring; they may be planted in
a bed as advised for young seedlings. Very
choice varieties can only be kept by this annual
division, and they do not always produce offsets,
freely.

Although there is a well-marked difference
between the true Primrose and the Cowslip
(P. veris ) they are really essentially very closely
related, and consequently they are supposed to
have crossed in a wild state. “The cultivated

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

491

varieties, either natural or hybrid, which are
generally referred to these two species are
numerous. The Polyanthus, P. variabilis, is
intermediate in character, but its origin is not
known with certainty. However, as some of
the forms approach the Cowslip, and some the

Fig. 598.— Primrose— Evelyn Arkwright. (3.)

stalked variety of the Primrose, there seems to
be little doubt that it is a fertile hybrid between
these two species, if indeed they are entitled
to that rank. The colouring is endless in its
variations, though limited to various shades
and combinations of purple, red, and yellow.
There is a curious variety called the Hose-in¬
hose, remarkable for the calyx being an almost
exact counterpart of the corolla. Another race
of cultivated varieties belongs to the Primrose,
agreeing with that in having the flower-umbels
sessile. The flowers are larger, however, in the
so-called typical form, and hence it has received
the name grandiflora. The varieties in cultiva¬
tion are more or less double, and range from
nearly pure white, yellow, and lilac, to deep
crimson ” (W. B. Hemsley).

The Polyanthus is certainly one of the most

I charming of hardy spring-flowering plants, but
it receives comparatively small appreciation
from the gardeners of the present period.
Where Daffodils or Tulips are favourites,
there also should Polyanthuses find admirers.
They are easily cultivated, they flower freely,
and the colours of their flowers are pleasing.
A bed of selected sorts, such as may be seen
at Hampton Court in June, is a delightful
floral picture. The laced varieties are particu¬
larly rich in colours, velvety crimson, edged or
laced with gold, &c. There are numerous
named varieties, but for all except exhibition
purposes a packet of seeds from a reliable
grower will afford plenty of variety and
quality. Their cultivation is conducted on
the same lines as those detailed above for
the Primrose.

Primula sinensis (fig. 599).— This plant,
as its name implies, is a native of China, and
has been introduced now some sixty years; but
it is within the last twenty that the greatest
advance has been made in raising improved
varieties, both double and single. For bouquet¬
making, the double white kinds are most useful,
being available nearly all the year round. The
single forms are most serviceable in the con¬
servatory and greenhouse during the winter
and spring months.

It is usual to raise fresh plants every year,
destroying the old ones as soon as they have
flowered or have ripened seeds, except in the.
case of any that may appear to possess some
superior quality. The first sowing should
be made early in March. The seeds require
care in sowing or they will fail to germinate,
or not come up well; in all stages, from the
seed-pan up to maturity, Primulas cannot bear
any approach to stagnant moisture in the soil.
The soil for seeds should consist of three parts,
good sifted loam, one part sand, and one well-
rotted leaf-mould, the latter sifted, and the
whole mixed together; fill the pans to within
an inch of the rim, make moderately firm, and
jwess the surface smooth; give a gentle watering
to settle the soil, and then sow the seeds evenly,
lightly covering them with fine soil. The
pans can then be placed in a cold frame and
covered with a pane of glass, shading with
paper. Little water will be required until the
seedlings are visible, when a little ventilation
is necessary, and as they gain strength more
air should be admitted, care being taken
to shade from bright sunshine. When large
enough they should be pricked off into pans,

492

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

an inch apart, and returned to the frame,
keeping them close and shaded until estab¬
lished, when they may receive cooler treat¬
ment. Their next shift should be singly into
3-inch pots, keeping them close for a few days.
Shift again into 5-inch pots, taking care to
develop, by means of light and ventilation, a
stiff, robust habit of growth. They delight in a
moderately open and rather rich compost, con¬
sisting of six parts of turfy loam and one part

Fig. 599.— Primula sinensis.

each of well-decomposed cow-manure, leaf-soil,
and silver sand. The pots need efficient drain¬
age, so that water may pass away freely from
the roots, the soil made rather firm, and deep
potting is to be preferred. After May the
plants will do well in a cold frame. Water
them freely during the summer, but in autumn
and winter give just enough to maintain a
moderate moisture in the soil. An airy position
a short distance from the roof-glass suits them
during winter, with a temperature not below
45 to 50 degrees.

The Chinese Primula is exceptionally well cul¬
tivated in the neighbourhood of Birmingham,
very large specimens 2 feet or more in diameter,
with large massive foliage and very fine flowers,
being annually exhibited in November in the
town-hall there. The Birmingham strain is
quite distinct. The treatment of the plants is
as follows: — -

The seeds are sown as soon after ripening
as possible. The young plants are pricked off

when ready, and potted into small pots when
large enough. They are wintered in these pots,
on shelves very close to the glass. At the turn
of the year, when the plants show signs of fresh
growth, they are shifted into 5-inch pots, and
kept close to the glass in a genial, warm, green¬
house temperature. In June they are put into
cold frames, kept close to the glass, shaded
during the brightest part of day, plenty of air
being judiciously given early in the day, re¬
duced or closed altogether according to weather
before the sun has left the glass. The final
shift into 8-inch pots is given soon after the
plants are removed into cold frames. They
are allowed plenty of room during the whole
growing season. Weak cow-manure water, with
soot, is beneficial when the plants are well-
rooted. A sharp look-out is kept for green-fly.
About the middle of September the plants are
moved into a cool, airy greenhouse to flower,
and from November onwards many of them
become perfect pyramids of bloom from purest
white to deep crimson, lasting for several months
in beauty. Some of the favourite sorts are: —

Duke of York, Emperor, Eynsford White, Her Majesty,
Kentish Purple, Marquis of Lome, Meteor, Mont Blanc,
Princess May, Swanley Giant, White Lady, White
Perfection.

Several fine double and semi-double varieties
have been produced from seed; the former are
increased by means of cuttings; the latter come
fairly true from seed.

The old double white is largely propagated
by means of cuttings planted in pots of light
sandy soil in a moderate heat. Another plan,
that of layering, is, as soon as the old plants
have gone out of bloom fine cocoa-nut fibre is
piled up among the shoots, which soon root into
it; they are then taken off and potted. Some
growers partly sever the shoots with a knife,
in the belief that it induces a quicker root-
development. [r. d,]

Pyrethrum (fig. 600). — Pyrethnm roseum
has been so greatly improved by the florist that
the fine double-flowered kinds may be said to
fill such places in May, June, and July as the
Aster and Chrysanthemum fill in autumn.
During the last thirty years or so Mr. Wm.
Kelway and others have produced numerous
varieties, both single and double, by continuous
cross-breeding and selection.

They thrive under ordinary conditions, re¬
sponding readily to liberal treatment, and are
useful either for beds or to form masses in

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

493

borders. They are propagated by division after
the plants have done flowering, and also from
cuttings made of the side-shoots formed at the
end of the summer. These should be set in
a cold frame, or under a hand-glass in a shady
border. When rooted they can be planted out
either in the autumn or early spring.

The double -flowered varieties do not seed
easily, and the seedlings are generally inferior.
The single varieties are better in this respect.

Fig. 600.— Pyrefchrums.

The seed should be sown in pans in early
spring and placed in a cold frame or on a shelf
in a cool greenhouse, covering them with a pane
of glass, and shading until they germinate.

Selection of Sorts.

Double-flowered. — Alfred, Aphrodite, Duchess of Teck,
Empress Queen, Ernest, Evelyn, Figaro, King Oscar,
Lady Kildare, Lenoard Kelvvay, Lord Rosebery, Milton,
Pericles, Primrose, Princess Beatrice.

Single-flowered. — Alice, Apollyon, Dorothy Kehvay,
F. M. Peacock, James Kelway, J. G. Clarke, Lord
Roberts, Macbeth, Mary Anderson, Millicent, Pascal,
Princess Irene, Princess Marie, Princess of Wales, Ruth.

Rhododendron (Hardy).. — Undoubtedly
the finest and best of hardy evergreens, no
other genus combining so much variety of
colour, so much beauty of both flower and
foliage, with vigour and hardiness.

The garden Rhododendrons, as distinct from
the species from which they are derived, are
quite a modern acquisition. The most import¬
ant of the parent species — It. catctwbiense, R. ar-
boreum, and It. caucasicum — have been introduced
within the last hundred years. R. ponticum,
which has also played a part in the production
of the garden race, was introduced in 1763, but
does not appear to have been used for hybri¬
dizing until long afterwards. Although other
crosses, accidental or otherwise, had been pre¬
viously obtained, the first results which may be
said to have begun the evolution of the garden
Rhododendrons, as Ave know them to-day, Avere
obtained between 1826 and 1835. About this
period the Himalayan, R. arboreum, introduced
in 1820, floAvered for the first time under culti¬
vation. It is easy to imagine the effect of
its glorious crimson trusses on people Avho
had only seen before the comparatively in¬
effectual and indeterminate hues of the Euro¬
pean and American species then in gardens.
At any rate, the desire Avas generally felt to
get some of its vivid colour into the open air
(for it is, itself, only hardy in very feAv parts
of the United Kingdom), and it was used
by several hybridists betAveen the dates
mentioned. Thus Avere obtained altaclerense
(arboreum x species unrecorded), Nobleanum
(arboreum x caucasicum ), Russellianum (arboreum
x catawbiense), Smithii (arboreum x ponticum).
These first hybrids, raised from R. arboreum ,
naturally retained some of its tenderness, as
Avell as its propensity to break into flower
early in the year. But a beginning had been
made, and by repeated crossing and selection
a hardy, later -floAvering race Avas gradually
evolved, Avhich still retained much of the vivid
colour of the Himalayan species. In fact, all
that is red or crimson in the flowers of the
garden race of Rhododendrons has its origin
in the “blood” of R. arboreum. In the varieties
that are most free from any purple tinge, such
as Michael Waterer and Doncaster, even the
foliage still bears a strong impress of that
species. During the years that folloAved the
first crosses with R. arboreum , several hybridists
took in hand their improvement; but the most
noteAvorthy, both as regards the length of
time over Avhich their work has extended and
the results obtained, Avere the Waterers of
Knap Hill and Bagshot. Their labours may,
indeed, be said to have largely given to the
great bulk of the garden Rhododendrons of
the present day their chief distinctive features.

Whilst the great majority of the varieties

494

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

owe their origin in a varying degree to the
four species above - mentioned, successful at¬
tempts have been made in more recent years to
introduce the “blood” of other species into
the open-air varieties. The results that have
already been obtained by using the fragrant
Chinese species, II Fortunei, are full of promise.
Two or three hybrids, with R. Griffitliianum

( Ancklandii ) as one parent, are of a singularly
refined beauty, arid very strikingly distinct
from the old-fashioned race. B. Thomsoni has
also been used — Ascot Brilliant is one of its
progeny — but although the colour is almost
equal to that of B. arboreum, its indifferent con¬
stitution is a drawback. A few charming
varieties, hardy, but too early-flowering to be

Fig. 601.— Rhododendron Kewense.

of much value in the open air, have been raised
by crossing B. ciliatum and II dauricum. R.
pmcox and Early Gem are of this class. The
American B. maximum has been used also to
some small extent, but its value in this connec¬
tion is likely to be greater in its native country,
where the climate is not so well adapted as
ours for Rhododendrons generally.

The value of Rhododendrons in gardens can
scarcely be overstated. Among evergreens of
similar stature and bulk they stand out be¬
cause of the wonderful profusion and beauty
of their flowers. Most evergreens of similar
character, like the Yew, Box, Laurels, Aucuba,
Holly, &c., have comparatively little to re¬
commend them beyond their foliage. The
Rhododendrons, on the other hand, are almost
equal to the best deciduous shrubs in flower-

beauty, and we have only to recall such var¬
ieties as Brough t@ni or Charles Noble to show
how striking some of them are as mere foliage
plants also. They may be grown as single
specimens on lawns, either as standards or in
their natural form. Massed in large beds or
groups, they produce magnificent effects, especi¬
ally if varieties flowering simultaneously and
of colours that contrast or harmonize well are
brought together. As an instance of a strik¬
ing combination, we may recommend a group
composed of the fiery scarlet Doncaster and
the charming white Mrs. John Clutton. Such
groups or beds, arranged in a more or less
formal manner, are admirable for supporting
broad drives and promenades, or for walks
that lead up to large mansions and imposing
buildings. But to see Rhododendrons at their

POPULAR GARDEN PLANTS.

495

very best, some sheltered dell or hollow is
needed where they can be planted informally
on the grass, and without any particular re¬
gard to their colour or time of flowering. If
a representative collection is brought together,
varieties may be had in flower during April,
May, and June. The latter part of May and

early June, however, is the great Rhododendron
time. The variety Nobleanum will sometimes
be in flower before Christmas, and it keeps
on intermittently till April. A few specimens
are worth growing, but owing to its suscepti¬
bility to frost it is not to be relied on.

The following list is representative of the

Fig. 602.— “Ghent” Azalea.

different sorts of hardy garden Rhododen¬
drons : —

Purple and lilac. — ■ Baron Schroeder, Caractacus,
Charles Thorold, Everestianum, Fastuosum flore pleno,
Melton, Purpureum grandiflorum.

Crimson and scarlet. — Charles Dickens, Doncaster,
Frederic Waterer, James Bateman, James Macintosh, J.
Marshall Brooks, John Walter, Martin Hope Sutton,
Michael Waterer, Mrs. Milner, Sefton, The Warrior.

Rose and pink. — Lady Armstrong, Lady Eleanor Cath-
cart, Mrs. Charles Thorold, Mrs. John Kelk, Mrs. John
Penn, Mrs. R. S. Holford.

Rose and pink with intense spot. — James Nasmyth,
Lady Annette de Trafford, Marchioness of Lansdowne,
Marie Stuart,. Picturatum, Stella,

Rose and crimson with lirjht centre. — Alexander Dancer,
James Mason, John Spencer, Kate Waterer, Mrs. Charles
Leaf, Mrs. Mendel.

White and blush. — Album elegans, Duchess of Con¬
naught, Madame Carvalho, Minnie, Mrs. John Clutton,

Mrs. J. P. Lade, Mrs. S. Simpson, Mrs. Thomas Agnew,
Pink Pearl, Sappho, Snowflake, The Queen.

Fortunei hybrids. — Duchess of York, H. M. Arderne,
Luscombei, Mrs. Thiselton-Dyer.

Griffithianum hybrids. — Coombe Royal, Kewense (fig.
601), Manglesi.

Rhododendrons are not all equally well
adapted for growing as standards, but the
following are recommended : —

Barclayanum, Everestianum, James Mason, Kate
Waterer, Lady Armstrong, Marchioness of Lansdowne,
Michael Waterer, Mrs. Charles Thorold, Mrs. John
Clutton, Mrs. Shuttleworth, Roseum elegans, Scipio.

Hardy Azaleas. — If the hardy Azaleas do
not hold quite the same commanding position
among deciduous shrubs that Rhododendrons
do among evergreens, they are undoubtedly in

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

49«

the very first rank. They have the same an¬
tipathy to chalky matter in contact with the
roots as their evergreen allies, and are thus
unsuited to gardens on a limestone formation.
With those exceptions, no garden can be con¬
sidered complete with the hardy Azaleas
unrepresented.

The chief species from which they have been
derived are of American origin, viz., calen-
dulacea, nudiflora, viscosa, and occidentalis, hence
the popular term for them of “American”
Azaleas. But the European species known as
A. pontica ( flavum ), and, in later years, the
Asiatic A. sinensis (mollis), have both played a
very important part. Another name that has
popularly been applied to these shrubs is
“ Ghent ” Azaleas. The first hybrids were,
indeed, produced in Belgium, and many of
the older varieties were extensively grown
and exported thence to this country; hence,
no doubt, this name. One of the first workers
among Azaleas in this country was Mr. Gowen
of Highclere, who crossed A. viscosa and A.
pontica about the same time that he raised
R. altaclerense, already mentioned. A. calenclu-
lacea and A. viscosa were also crossed about
the same date. In recent years the most im¬
portant work among these Azaleas has been
done at the Knap Hill Nursery, near Woking.

In a general sense the orange and scarlet
varieties have come from A. calendulacea; the
pink, purple, and rosy shades are from A.
nudiflora-, the yellow from A. pontica-, and the
small white-flowered varieties from A. viscosa.
In more recent times an important group
originating from A. sinensis has come into
prominence. Except that the flowers have no
fragrance, these varieties are quite as charm¬
ing as the others, the flowers being larger
and remarkable for their exquisitely soft tints,
ranging from yellow to salmon colour. They
flower somewhat earlier than the others, and
are thus liable to damage by spring frosts.
Another group, also of recent origin, has been
obtained at Knap Hill by hybridizing A. occi¬
dentalis — a white -flowered, very fragrant, West
American species — with the older varieties.
As they do not come into bloom until after
the other Azaleas are almost over, they add
appreciably to the length of the Azalea season.
These deciduous Azaleas are amongst the most
attractive of autumn-tinted shrubs, the foliage
dying off in brilliant shades of red and purple.

The size and habit of these Azaleas do not
render them so well adapted as the evergreen
Rhododendrons for growing as single isolated

specimens on lawns, &c. They are better
suited for growing in large masses or in formal
beds, and thus arranged may be used in the
same positions as the Rhododendrons, i.e.
skirting walks, drives, &c. But a more admir¬
able plan, and one which is being generally
adopted, is to set apart for them a certain
portion of the garden, which in May and June,
when these plants flower, is most delightful.

In the early days of the hybridization and
development of the Azalea, nearly every plant
showing a distinguishing character, however
small, was given a name. Some of these old
varieties are still worth growing, but the best
of them are now surpassed by the new varieties

Fig. 603.— Azalea— Duchess of Wellington.

raised at Knap Hill, and these have become so
numerous that it is no longer possible to give
distinctive names. As a slight guide the
following named varieties may, however, be
recommended : — -

Ardens, Comte de Flandre, Daviesi, Decus hortorum.
Duchess of Wellington (fig. 603), Fiirst Camille de Rohan,
Gloria Mundi, Meteor, Minerva, Nancy Waterer, Ne Plus
Ultra, Pontica grandifiora, Queen Victoria, Sulphurea,
Triumphans, Viscocephala.

Double - flowered. — Bijou de Gendbrugge, Heroine,
Louise Aimee Van Houtte, Narcissiflora, Ophirie, Van
Houttei.

Mollis group. — Anthony Koster, Emil Liebig, Frans
Van der Bom, Hugo Koster, Nicolas Beets, T. J. Siedel.

Mollis x Pontica. — Charles Rogier, Edison, Esmeralda,
Frederic de Merode, General Goffinet, Gloire de Belgique,
Oswald de Kerchove, Souvenir de Louis Van Houtte.

Cidtivation. — The general principles which
are laid down in regard to the cultivation of
“American plants”, in an earlier part of this
work apply in every respect to Rhododendrons
and Azaleas. As has already been said, they
will not thrive in a soil heavily impregnated

THE TOMATO.

337

is usually an expensive undertaking. Mortar
rubbish, burnt earth and ashes, sand, leaf-soil,
and such like, when freely mixed with heavy
soils, improve their character considerably.

Manures. — Various fertilizers have been sug¬
gested for Tomatoes, and most authorities are
agreed that a too free use of animal manures is
liable to promote a luxuriant, disease-inviting
growth of plant, and in retentive soils especially
they ought to be somewhat sparingly used.

American experts are mostly in favour of
chemical manures, and exhaustive series of
experiments have demonstrated the fact that
it pays better to use certain mixtures at a
fixed rate at planting-time than to distribute a
similar quantity over a period of two or three
months. Nitrate of soda and sulphate of am¬
monia, as previously intimated, act quickly,
and if a full dressing is given at one time,
a portion of it is liable to be washed away

Fig. 1115.— Tomato— Best of All.

before the plants can avail themselves of it,
and this means so much waste of a valuable
manure. Special mixtures for Tomatoes are
to be obtained from various vendors at reason¬
able prices, and if these are applied according
to the directions given with them no mistake
will be made. Those who prefer to buy and
mix their own manures are referred to the
formula already given (p. 333), using the
mixture at the rate of about 12 lbs. per square
rod, or roughly, 6 ozs. to the square yard
of ground. For the more clayey, retentive
soils sulphate of ammonia may be substituted
for nitrate of soda, and lighter dressings all
round are desirable in the case of soils not
previously cropped with Tomatoes. Where
animal manures have been frequently applied
rather freely, this might well be withheld for
one season, and a surface-dressing of newly-
slaked lime, at the rate of half a bushel to a

VOL. II.

square rod, given by way of economy, and as
a corrective of acidity.

Training. — As a rule Tomatoes produce the
heaviest crops when trained up the roof near
the glass; but a far greater number of plants
can be found room for, and a much greater
weight of fruit be had, by planting in rows
across a house, and either providing each plant
with a bamboo stake, or else twisting them
round strings secured to pegs in the ground or
to the stem of the plant and to the roof. It
may here be added that the durable bamboos
are the best in the long run, though they may
seem a little expensive at the outset. Crowd¬
ing the plants is a great mistake. When
planted 12 inches to 14 inches apart, in rows
2 feet or so apart, the crops set well for a
time, but eventually the plants smother and
rob each other, and the fruits in consequence
are light in weight and poor in quality. The

63

338

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

wholesale removal of the lower leaves is but
a poor way out of the difficulty. After re¬
peated trials we have come to the conclusion
that a distance of not less than 3 feet should
separate the rows, the plants in the rows being
12 inches apart. Given this space there will
be no necessity to remove many leaves, but
they usually require to be reduced to about
one-half their natural size, according as they
begin to press against each other. For these
later crops the smooth round varieties are
very suitable, those of a medium size, such as
Cropper and Champion, finding most favour in
the markets, while the larger varieties, of the
Duke of York type, are preferred for exhibition
purposes, heavy as well as handsome fruit being
needed.

If the plants have been prepared as already
advised, and planted before they become root-
bound, progress will be rapid from the first.
The soil about the roots must be made quite
firm. The plants when young must not suffer
for want of water. Later on they will require
copious supplies, which should be given as
much as possible in the mornings of bright
days with a view to getting the house dry
before night. A mulching of rotten straw
manure saves the hose or watering-pot con¬
siderably, but it is thought to favour the spread
of fungus and other diseases, that attack the
underground portion of the stem and cause
the collapse of the plants; still, this may be
risked. It is a great mistake to delay removing
the side-shoots until a knife has to be used
(see Fig. 1108), better attention repaying well,
as shown in Fig. 1109.

As the days lengthen, and it is possible to
ventilate more freely, a good set of fruit is
easily effected ; but no risks should be run, and
the padded stick must be used daily as long
as necessary. If handsome fruit are required,
on no account neglect the early removal of
the central ugly flower, and if the other flowers
are thinned out the rest will be stronger, and
if duty fertilized will develop finer fruit. If
the flowers have not been thinned, then the
number of fruit must be reduced, that is, if
show examples are wanted. Topping the lead¬
ing growths beyond the second or third cluster
of fruit may have the effect of slightly increas¬
ing their size, but, as a rule, no topping need
be practised till the tops of the stakes or the
roof is reached. Sometimes the plants next
to the sides or fronts of houses are not topped
when the glass is reached, but are allowed to
extend up the roof, when they continue to fruit

heavily till later in the season, those under¬
neath being cut out as fast as they are cleared
of fruit. There should be enough heat in the
hot-water pipes to maintain temperatures not
lower than 55° during the night; a slight heat
in the pipes during the day, accompanied by
top-aii', more or less according to external con¬
ditions, serves to keep the house dry and the
air buoyant. Never delay opening the top
ventilators till a high temperature, accompanied
by a great increase in the humidity of the
atmosphere, is reached, nor close early enough
to bring about the same undesirable state of
affairs, as this invariably leads to a rapid spread
of fungus diseases, “ scalding ” of the fruit, and
the like. The season of 1898 was one of the
worst on record as far as Tomato diseases were
concerned, but little or nothing was seen of
them in houses where little or no fire-heat was
given.

Autumn and Winter Crops.

The demand for Tomatoes is greatest from
May to September, but it is considerably on
the increase during the colder months of the
year. Trade growers will therefore do well
to meet this demand, while private gardeners
will gain credit with their employers if they
also grow as many as possible for late autumn
and winter consumption. There is realty no
good reason why they should not be far more
plentiful in winter than they are.

The secret of success, if secret it may be
termed, lies in realizing the fact that Tomatoes
fail to produce perfect flowers late in the year;
but this difficulty can be surmounted by start¬
ing the plants soon enough to flower and set
the fruit before dull, sunless weather sets in,
these ripening in succession throughout the
winter. But for the Potato disease the simplest
plan would be to grow enough plants in pots in
the open, and when these were well set with
fruit, or say about the middle of September, to
house the whole of them. The Bouille Borde-
laise or sulphate of copper and lime remedy is
too destructive to the flowers; but a mixture
of sulphate of copper and lime in a powdered
state, and applied through a dredger or other
distributor, would check the spread of disease
without greatly injuring the flowers. For
these late crops, whether they are to be wholly
or only partially grown under glass, it is a
mistake to start later than May for plants to
be prepared in the open, or the early part of
June for any to be grown wholly under glass.

THE TOMATO.

339

A few ripe fruit may be had from these com¬
paratively early-raised plants before they are
wanted, but the bulk will ripen more slowly
and keep a long time after they are ripe,
whereas later-raised plants will not only pro¬
duce lighter crops, but will also very probably
become badly diseased before much of the fruit
has ripened.

Tomato plants can be propagated from cut¬

tings as well as from seed, but few nowadays
adopt the former practice, seedlings proving
quite as productive, or even more so, than
plants raised from cuttings ; they are also less
liable to be affected by disease.

When pot-plants are to be prepared in the
open, use the 10-inch size with one plant in
each, and arrange them 14 inches apart in
rows about 3 feet apart on a hard bottom,

Fig. 1116.— Tomato— Peachblow.

placing a bamboo or other stake 4 feet high
to each. Give a rich top-dressing after the
soil is well filled with roots, and keep well
supplied with water and liquid manure. No
side-shoots should be allowed to form, and the
one leading growth must be secured to the
stake.

Late in the summer some of the lower older
leaves should be reduced to about half their
size, and when the plants are carefully trans¬
ferred to the house or houses, they may be
stood rather more closely together than for¬
merly, or even between or among older
Tomato plants that have been cleared of their
lower clusters of fruit and leaves. Those
planted under glass early in July may either
be treated similarly to earlier batches, plant¬
ing them in rows across the house or houses,
or the roofs of small houses may be covered

with them. A few plants might be allowed
to spread over a roof, the extension system
answering well for these late crops. Some
that have already borne good crops are some¬
times roughly pruned, and a number of side-
shoots laid in from them in an irregular
fashion. These leading growths should not
be allowed in their turn to form any side-
shoots, but ought to be trained thinly, or
about 12 inches apart, clusters of fruit form¬
ing on them to their entire length. The
greater portion of old plants from the borders
or ridges should be removed; a top-dressing
with some rich compost and applications of
liquid manure are good for these old plants,
whilst young ones put out thickly ought not to
be starved.

Late Tomatoes are also grown in boxes on
the back shelves of vineries, and fruited down

340

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

the roof; but these have to be cut and ripened
in stronger heat before the house is set widely
open, so as to give the Vines their needed rest.
If the pot and other late - cropping plants
trained up roofs are kept in a temperature
ranging from 55° by night to 60° to 65° in
the day, they will not only give a long suc¬
cession of well-ripened fruit, but they will push
out side-shoots freely, which, if duly thinned,
will each give a cluster of fruit in the spring
before it is possible to have any from plants
raised in January.

Tomatoes in Pits and Frames. — Success with
Tomatoes in pits or frames is not frequent.
More often than not the plants become badly
diseased before a profitable crop can be had
from them, owing to imperfect ventilation; or
if they escape disease they yet fail to set and
produce good crops. Those in frames are apt
to grow too rank, and the same thing happens
in pits unless the roots are confined to either
pots, boxes, or narrow ridges of soil. Various
contrivances have also to be adopted in order
to keep the haulm raised clear of the soil.
Instead of attempting to grow Tomatoes under
such disadvantageous conditions, it would be
far better, where possible, to devote a house
to their culture during the summer, and to
relegate the ordinary occupants of these struc¬
tures largely to the pits and frames.

Frame culture will answer if care be taken
not to grow the plants too strongly, nor to
unduly crowd the leading growths, and to
ventilate freely on all favourable occasions.
Tomatoes may be planted in pits and frames
in succession to early Potatoes, with a view to
giving them a good start prior to removing the
lights and exposing the plants to all weathers.
Two rows of plants may be disposed from the
front to the back of each light in close succes¬
sion to the Potatoes. They should be kept
rather close and warm till growing strongly,
and directly they require tall stakes, wholly
remove the light and place a 4-foot stake to
each plant. Plants thus started should be well
ahead of those in the open air, and in most
seasons would produce a heavy crop of ripe
fruit before much disease was in the air.

Diseases. — The well-known Potato disease
(Phytophthora ivfestans) affects Tomatoes also,
open-air plants with their crops succumbing
to it in a wholesale manner whenever Potatoes
are badly affected. During a hot, dry summer
very little is seen of this disease. In a wet
season, if the plants cannot be kept dry by a
temporary protection, the only other remedy

is either occasional sprayings with Bordeaux
mixture, as recommended for Potatoes, or
frequently dusting with “Anti-Blight” powder,
a mixture of newly-slaked lime and sulphate
of copper. Both remedies are apt to seriously
check the growth of the plants.

Yellow Spot ( Cladosporium fulvum ) occurs
principally on plants grown under glass, and in
some seasons is most destructive. At the out¬
set a few leaves only may be affected, but if
neglected the disease spreads rapidly from one
house to another. The under side of the leaves
is attacked, patches of brown mildew-like fungus
destroying the cuticle and tissues of the leaves,
causing yellow spots to show on the upper side.
A warm, moist, stagnant atmosphere, such as
Cucumbers revel in, favours the spread of this
disease ; and the soft leaves of overfed plants are
the first to succumb, soon being left without a
healthy leaf on them, the fruit also being spoilt.
Close planting, that is, crowding the plants
together, favours the spread of the disease.

The best preventive measures should include
an effort to grow sturdy plants, by maintaining
a warm, dry, airy atmosphere. Fire-heat is
essential to success, as without this it is im¬
possible to prevent stagnation in the atmosphei’e
in dull, damp weather. Plenty of fire-heat,
coupled with careful ventilation, opening the
houses in the morning and not closing them till
the evening, and not then if it will give rise to
a high temperature. During the summer a little
top air may be left on all night. A close look¬
out should also be kept for any symptoms of
disease, carefully removing and burning any
diseased parts.

Bordeaux mixture is considered a good
remedy, though applications of this have the
effect of checking the plants in growth, and
unless precautions are taken it also necessitates
wiping every fruit before it can be used or
packed, as the case may be. The following
method of preparing and applying the Bordeaux
mixture is from the Journal of Horticulture: —
Sulphate of copper, 4 ozs., powdered, dis¬
solving in a vessel by itself in 3J gallons of
water; then slake 4 ozs. of quicklime (quite
fresh) in another vessel, and form into a thin
lime-wash with water, and pour it through a
hair sieve slowly into the vessel containing the
copper solution, adding enough water to make
7 b gallons altogether. To make sure this will
not injure the plants, drop a few drops of ferro-
cyanide of potassium into the Bordeaux mix¬
ture after it has been well stirred ; and if it turns
brown it will injure the plants, but if it remains

THE TOMATO.

341

a clear celestial blue it is perfectly safe. It should
be used as soon as it is made, not letting it
stand for several hours. Cut any fruits that are
ripening, and then spray the plants in every
part, repeating in the course of a week or ten
days. The mixture may be kept from the fruit
by wrapping it in oil-skin before spraying, re¬
moving it afterwards.

A simpler and more perfect remedy consists
of turning or concentrating the fire-heat on to
the affected area, to the extent of making the
hot-water pipes unbearably hot, running up the
temperature to 110° of 120°, repeating this every
second day for a week, with the result that all
the disease germs will be destroyed. It should
be done in the daytime. Those who have not
tried this remedy may be encouraged to do so
by having their attention drawn to the fact that
this “yellow spot” disease is rarely troublesome
in the well-heatecl houses in which Tomatoes are
grown for an early crop.

Black Stripe ( Macrosporiurn Lycopersici) is
another fungus disease of a most destructive
nature to which Tomatoes are subject. A good
start may be made with the plants, and a crop
of fruit set on them, before the disease mani¬
fests itself. Suddenly a shrinkage and dis¬
coloration of parts of the stems, in the form of
black stripes, are to be seen, and if the stems
are soft the upper portion of the plants collapses
entirely, while if they are moderately hard a
partial recovery may take place, a poor crop
of malformed fruit being obtained from them.
The trouble commences at the roots, and once
started, nothing seems capable of checking the
progress of the disease short of carefully re¬
moving and destroying affected plants and soil,
and disinfecting the sites with quicklime prior
to adding more soil and replanting.

Preventive measures are most imperative.
The very seeds are liable to carry contagion with
them, and ought to be disinfected before sowing.
This may be done by coating them with flowers
of sulphur, or by soaking them in a weak solu¬
tion of Condy’s Fluid. The soil used in the
seed-pans should also be treated by the addition
of enough newly-slaked lime to whiten it, or by
subjecting it to strong heat, red-hot bricks placed
in the centre of a small heap of soil destroying
disease germs. Soil to be used in pots or for
ridges should be treated in the same way.
Where the plants are put out in borders, market-
growers’ fashion, these should also be limed.
Lime obtained from chalk and newly slaked
should be applied at the rate of 1 lb. per square
yard, and forked in, well mixing it with the top

spit. If in spite of these precautions a few plants
early show signs of disease, these ought to be
quickly drawn and burnt, and lime applied to
the soil they came out of, to prevent the spread
of disease to adjoining plants.

Sleeping Disease ( Fusarium Lycopersici). Plants
affected by this much-to-be-dreaded disease
may apparently be in good health and in a fair
way to produce extra heavy crops on one day,
and during the next flag badly, never again to
recover. This disease also attacks the roots, and
may be prevented by taking the precautions
advised for Black Stripe.

Slime Fungus also attacks Tomato plants with
deadly effect at times. It should be combated
in the same way as recommended for the other
diseases in preceding paragraphs.

Black Bot ( Macrosporiurn Tomato), another
fungus disease, attacks the fruit at the eye very
soon after it has set, the decay spreading slowly
but surely, causing black circular patches; fruit
injured in this way colour prematurely, but are
quite worthless. Scalded fruits are frequently
thought to be affected by this disease, but the
cause and effect both differ. In the case of
scalded fruits there is a rapid shrinkage of
tissues or pulp, the injured parts being quite
soft and green for a day or two, afterwards
becoming black. The remedy, however, is the
same in both cases. Sufficient fire-heat must be
turned on to prevent the temperature becoming
low during cold nights preceding or following
clear days, and also be admitted quite early in
the morning to prevent any sudden rise in the
temperature. When the fruit becomes very
cold at night, and there is also a delay in ven¬
tilating, not opening the house or houses till
long after the sun strikes on them, the heated
air condenses on the cold fruit, and the rapid
evaporation of this moisture, consequent upon a
sudden late opening of the top ventilators, results
in the disruption of the tissues or “sun scald”
— hence the necessity to avoid a low tempera¬
ture, and for early ventilation, followed accord¬
ing as the sun gains in power, by the admission
of all the air possible. Keep the fruit dry, and
neither Black Rot nor Scalding will be much
in evidence.

Insect Pests that affect the Tomato are not
particularly numerous. Remedies for Green¬
fly, Red Spider, and Snowy Fly will be found
in the chapter devoted to Insect Pests, but the
Root-gall or Eel-worm must not be thus
summarily dismissed, as it is one of the worst
enemies to the Tomato, and the most difficult to
deal with. Plants with their roots badly affected

342

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

by this minute pest are practically failures, soon
ceasing to make any further progress. The
small thread-like worms pierce and deposit their
eggs on cysts in the Tomato roots, causing galls
or knots to form which paralyse the roots and
deprive the plants of their assistance while form¬
ing crops of fruits. A more deadly species of
eel-worm, known as Tylenchus obtusus, destroys
the bark and soft tissues of the stems below the
surface, flagging leaves being the first intima¬
tion of the attack. Both species are difficult to
cope with. All that can be done is to keep the
soil about the roots steadily moist, and to apply
lime-water occasionally, oi', better still, Little’s
Soluble Phenyle, at the rate of 1 oz. to 6 gallons
of soft water. Neither lime-water nor soluble
phenyle will wholly check the ravages of eel-
worms, but they serve to keep the roots active
long enough to save the crop.

Thorough preventive measures should be
adopted the following autumn or winter, or the
chances are that eel-worms will be even more
destructive the following season. Where possible
all the old soil should be cleared out, the beds
limed, and the walls lime-washed. If the new
compost prepared has been well frozen through
that would clear it of eel-worms, and, failing
this, add enough newly -slaked lime to whiten it.
Market-growers could not well clear out their
large borders and substitute new soil, and the
only way out of the difficulty is to trench the
ground well, mixing 2 lbs. of basic slag and 12
ozs. of kainit with every square yard of border.
This ought to be done at least six weeks prior
to planting Tomatoes in the ground, as these
manurial insecticides when first applied in such
excessive quantities are liable to be somewhat
destructive to plant as well as to insect life.

Wire-worms are destructive to Tomato plants
planted in newly-broken-up ground, eating their
way into and up through the centre of the
stems, flagging foliage being the first signs of
their presence. At this stage there is no remedy,
quite large plants having in many instances to
be pulled up wholesale and replaced with healthy
plants. Gas-lime mixed with fresh soil at the
rate of 1 half-peck to 1 2 bushels of soil, or well-
mixed with soil in borders at the rate of 1 peck
to the square rod of ground, helps to clear the
soil of wire-worms; but ground treated with this
kind of insecticide cannot safely be cropped for
at least six weeks after its application, or until
the poisonous properties are got rid of. Super¬
phosphate of lime is both distasteful to wire-
worms and a good manure for Tomatoes, but
it cannot be termed a really effective remedy.

Trapping is the only safe and perfect remedy,
and this should commence either in advance of
or simultaneously with planting. Short (2-inch)
lengths of carrot, each with a label or stick
thrust into it, ought to be inserted with the
aid of a trowel just below the surface of the
ground and 2 feet or so apart, and in these the
wire-worms will assuredly collect. Eveiy second
day is often enough to raise and examine the
carrots, the wire-worms being found sticking
out of them. They should be destroyed, and
the carrots returned to the ground.

Selection of Twenty-four Varieties.

Best of All (fig. 1115). — Sets freely and is an immense
crojiper, producing heavy bunches of fruit at short inter¬
vals all over the plant. Excellent in form, of good size,
solid ; colour deep-scarlet.

Blenheim Orange. — A somewhat strong grower, the fruit
setting freely under glass, not so freely in the open. Fruit
large, round, smooth, good form, bright -yellow faintly
flushed with red, solid, of fine flavour; averaging four to
a cluster.

Champion. — Sturdy growing and free setting both under
glass and in the open. Fruit of medium size, round,
smooth, deep-scarlet ; averaging five inside and nine out¬
side to a cluster. Ripens in the open first week in August.
One of the best for all purposes.

Chiswick Dessert. — Fairly robust. Fruit rather small,
round, smooth, scarlet; averaging eight in a cluster; solid,
of fine flavour. A heavy cropper inside, of no value out¬
side.

Duke of York. — Strong grower, but not free in setting.
Fruit large, flattish round, smooth, scarlet; averaging three
to a cluster; of good form and fair flavour.

Dwarf Gem (fig. 1107).— Plant seldom exceeds 2J feet
in height; foliage large, dark,1 curled, the plant presenting
a very striking appearance. The pale-yellow fruits are
perfect in form, and borne in immense clusters.

Early Ruby. — A dwarf grower and very free setter.
Fruit medium, uneven, some fruits smooth, others corru¬
gated, particularly outside, deep-red; averaging five to a
cluster. One of the best for the open air, the fruit com¬
mencing to ripen late in July.

Frogmore Selected. — A strong grower and heavy cropper.
Fruit medium to large, deep, round, slightly corrugated,
handsome, scai'let; averaging six to a cluster; solid, good
flavour. Good both under glass and in the open.

Golden Jubilee. — Plant robust and free bearing under
glass, but no good in the open. Fruit large, round, deep-
yellow suffused with red, smooth, handsome; averaging
five to a cluster; solid, fine flavour.

Golden Nugget. — A moderately strong grower, free
setting and distinctly ornamental both under glass and in
the open. Fruit small, roundish - oval, smooth, bright-
yellow; averaging eight to a cluster; solid, fine flavour.

Ham Green Favourite. — Moderately strong growing and
more reliable than Chemin Rouge, which it resembles.
Fruit large, flattish-round, smooth, deep-scarlet; averaging
seven to a cluster; solid, good flavour. A heavy cropper
inside and outside.

Holmes’ Supreme. — Of sturdy habit with rather finely-
cut leaves ; setting freely under glass and in the open.
Fruit medium, round, smooth, bright-red; averaging nme

THE TOMATO.

343

to a cluster; very good flavour. A heavy cropper inside
and outside. Ripens outside August 4th.

Laxton’s Prolific. — Moderately strong growing. Fruit
large, flat, corrugated, scarlet; averaging eight to a cluster; I

solid, good flavour. A very heavy cropper inside and out¬
side, where the fruit ripens late in July.

Peacliblow (fig. 1116). — Robust in constitution, sets
freely, and carries an extraordinary crop. Plant distinctly

Pig 1117.— Tomato-

decorative, with numerous bunches of elegant fruit having
all the charm of a handsome Peach ; flavour good.

Princess of Wales (fig. 1117). — Free growth. Fruit of
medium size, smooth, round, bright-red in colour, and of
excellent quality. A heavy cropper, and one of the best
for all purjioses.

Ravenscroft' s Red. — Moderately strong growing and free
bearing. Fruit large, round, smooth, scarlet; averaging
six to a cluster; solid, good flavour. A very heavy cropper
inside and outside. Ripe in the open about the middle of
August.

Sunbeam (fig. 1118). — A moderately strong grower and
a free bearer both under glass and in the open. Fruit
medium to small, oval, smooth, handsome, bright-yellow;
averaging nine to a cluster; solid, excellent flavour. A
good dessert variety.

Sutton’s Dessert. — A moderately strong grower and a
free setter under glass, somewhat shy in the open. Fruit
small, round, smooth, handsome, scarlet; averaging eight
to a cluster; solid, excellent flavour.

The Comet. — Not a strong grower, but very free bearing.
Fruit medium, round, smooth, of good form, deep-scarlet;
averaging six to a cluster; solid, good flavour. One of the
best for open-air culture, commencing to ripen first week
in August.

The Cropper. — A strong grower and heavy cropper.
Fruit medium, deep, round, smooth, good form, bright-
scarlet; averaging five to a cluster; solid, good flavour.
Ripens outside early in August, but the fruit is liable to
crack.

Tit Bits. — Robust and free setting. Fruit medium,
round, smooth, good form, scarlet ; averaging six to a
cluster; firm, of excellent flavour. Ready outside first
week in August.

Vcitch’s Glory. — A robust grower and a free bearer both
inside and outside. Fruit large, round, smooth, handsome,
deep-scarlet; averaging nine to a cluster; solid, of fine

■Princess of Wales

flavour. Ready outside early in August. One of the best
for all purposes.

Winter Beauty (fig. 1114). — A sturdy grower and very
free setter. Fruit large, round, smooth, occasionally

Fig. 1118— Tomato— Sunbeam.

slightly ribbed, bright - scarlet ; solid, excellent flavour.
Good for autumn sowing; crops heavily in the open.

Young’s Eclipse. — A moderately strong grower and a
free bearer inside and outside. Fruit medium, round,
smooth, scarlet; averaging five to a cluster; solid, of good
flavour. Ripens in the open middle of August.

[W. I.]

344

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

CHAPTER XXIY.

FRUIT -PRESERVING.

Advantages — Methods and Appliances — Jam-making
— Jelly - making — Marmalade — Crystallizing
and Glazing — Chotney — Bottling Whole Fruits
— Fruit Evaporating or Drying — Canning — Mis¬
cellaneous Methods — Hardy Fruits — Apples —
Jelly — Pears — Quinces — Stone-fruits — Plums —
Apricots — Cherries — Peaches — Small Fruits —
Strawberries — Raspberries — Blackberries —
Red Currants — Black Currants — Gooseberries
— Miscellaneous Fruits and Methods.

Advantages. — One of the most important
subjects connected with the cultivation and
utilization of hardy fruits is that dealing with
their preservation in a convenient form for use
as food. Briefly summarized, the advantages of
an extension of knowledge in this matter may
be stated as follows: —

1st. To prolong the season during which fruit
is available for use in the home or for sale.

2nd. To provide methods of utilizing the
surplus produce in seasons of heavy crops.

3rd. To enable the fruit-grower to convert
waste or unsaleable fruits into a useful and
marketable product.

Wherever hardy fruit is grown on an exten¬
sive scale, it is essential that some provision be
made for the purposes enumerated, and even
when grown only to a moderate extent the
matter demands some consideration. The whole
subject is of great importance; in fact, the ulti¬
mate success of increased fruit-culture must
depend mainly upon the attention that is paid
to this department. It constitutes the key to
several of the chief problems, for usually the
difference between a profitable balance and ab¬
solute total loss is influenced bj' the care or
neglect in making the most of all fruit produce,
by means of the various methods of preser¬
vation.

At the present time the waste of fruit in
both large and small establishments is deplor¬
able in the extreme. A large proportion of this
waste is either due to want of knowledge of
methods that have proved satisfactory, or to
ignoring them, under the impression that they
are not adapted for genei’al use in this country.
In the “ gluts ” which occur periodically, espe¬
cially with stone fruits, when the market prices
are depressed to a point that will not cover the
cost of gathering and carriage, many tons of
good fruits are allowed to fall and rot on the
ground. At the same time, every year enor¬
mous quantities of similar fruits, preserved in

different ways, are imported into Great Britain,
and find a ready market. F rom one of the recent
Board of Trade returns we learn that over ninety
million pounds of preserved fruits and vege¬
tables were imported in 1899, a large proportion
of which consisted of products that could have
been profitably prepared in this country.

As regards fruits preserved as jam or bottled
whole, British manufacturers hold their position
satisfactorily, and some of the larger jam firms
export to the colonies and other countries. In
the processes of drying or canning, and in the
utilization of otherwise waste fruits, American
and Continental competitors have taken the
lead, and developed an enormous industry. In
the United States, where the advance within
recent years has been most marked, the work
was practically commenced by the efforts of
individual fruit-growers to provide an outlet
for surplus or waste. For a considerable period
the main supplies were thus produced, and
necessarily resulted in a great variety of brands
and styles of preparation, which were confusing
and objectionable to large buyers. As soon as
it was found, however, that a demand existed
for good samples of dried or canned fruits,
factories were established, which in some cases
have now assumed wonderful proportions, and
the trade passed from the fruit-grower to another
class of men who were dealers or preservers
simply.

Mr. F. A. Waugh, in a recent work on Fruit
Harvesting, has the following remarks on this
subject, which illustrate the advance in the
business : — “Formerly the home manufacture
of dried Apples, &c., was common in all the
farming districts of the United States — at least
in the north — and home-dried fruit was to some
extent an article of importance in the country
stores. That day has passed. Home -dried
Apples and Peaches went out with home-knit
socks and home-made soap. There are still
families who dry their own Apples, just as
there are some who still make soap and knit
socks; but for the most part these have all
been given up. The change has been the same
in all cases, and has resulted from the same
causes. It is cheaper to buy soap than to make
it, and it is equally easier to buy dried fruit
than to dry it one’s self. It is a question of
division of labour. The man, or the stock
company, that makes a business of drying fruits
on a large scale can do the work to greater
advantage than the farmer or the farmer’s wife.
His product is more uniform, better in appear¬
ance, and perhaps better in quality than the

FRUIT-PRESERVING.

345

bome-made article, while at the same time it
can be sold at a lower price. Fruit-drying or
evaporating, therefore, has been wholly taken
out of the fruit-grower’s hands, and has fallen
under the management of specialists.”

This is a proof of the advance of our trans¬
atlantic cousins; but in Britain, where so many
hardy fruits flourish, we have at present much
to do before the first stage is passed. It
is true that in many country houses it is cus¬
tomary to preserve a small quantity of fruits
for use during the winter, but this does not
affect the supplies materially; it is part of the
domestic economy which obtains in well-ordered
households. But there are numbers where
nothing is done in this direction, and it is rare
even in fruit-growing districts to find anything
like an organized attempt to deal with the
matter on a business basis.

The improvement effected in the needful
appliances, and the invention of numerous in¬
genious contrivances to facilitate the work,
now afford an opportunity to many who have
hitherto been deterred from attempting fruit¬
preserving, bottling, or drying in a systematic
manner and as a direct source of profit. One
difficulty has to be faced by those who com¬
mence fruit-preserving in a small way as part
of their business, and that is the competition
with the established firms of repute, who have
controlled the trade for many years. Amongst
those who have started to place their produce
on the mai'ket, there has been a prevailing idea
that the only way to obtain a sale was by
cutting the prices as low as possible. This
underselling has proved disastrous in some
cases, and has led to the production of inferior
samples that have occasioned considerable pre¬
judice against the smaller manufacturer. The
policy is a mistaken one; there is a far better
chance of success in seeking to establish a repu¬
tation for a really first-class article, and a local
trade can thus be ultimately developed into one
of much wider scope.

The present head of a large and profitable
fruit-preserving business began as a fruit-grower
in a small way some thirty or forty years ago,
and when utilizing his surplus produce he aimed
at the production of the best quality of pre¬
serves. The superiority was soon discovered
by the consumers, with the result that, so far
from reducing prices to undersell older firms,
he has been able to command rates in excess of
theirs throughout the greater portion of his
career.

The co-operative system, has been advocated

as a means for enabling the smaller producers
in a district to share in the advantages of
utilizing surplus crops without incurring large
individual expenses. If well organized and
judiciously managed, there is no doubt that
such a system might be rendered very bene¬
ficial. The cost of preparation would be pro¬
portionately reduced, and greater uniformity
in quality and general appearance of the pro¬
ducts would be ensured. But in certain localities
this has not been found to work satisfactorily,
and the growers have preferred to deal with
their own fruit. In some cases this can be
done with comparatively little preliminary ex¬
pense for buildings, as, if substantial sheds or
packing-houses already exist, a portion can be
readily converted to the purpose of providing
for the needful apparatus required in fruit¬
preserving. Several methods by which this
can be accomplished will be indicated later in
this chapter under the respective divisions, but
with a moderate amount of ingenuity a fruit¬
grower should find little difficulty in adapting
existing buildings for the work, or in devising
cheap structures that could be utilized in dif¬
ferent ways according to the season.

As previously indicated, however, there is
ample room for the extension of the home pro¬
duction of preserved fruits, and if this could be
carried out on definite lines generally, it would
afford the greatest encouragement to small
holders to increase their culture of fruit-trees,
and would also enable landlords to assist cot¬
tagers and others in the same direction, with a
better prospect of good results. From this point
of view, the late Mr. W. E. Gladstone was
undoubtedly considering the welfare of the
people, and the best means of assisting fruit¬
growing as a special or additional industry,
when he advocated the increased and more
general production of preserved fruits.

Methods and Appliances. — To convey an ade¬
quate idea of what can be accomplished by due
care in the economic utilization of surplus fruits,
it will be necessary to review the principal
operations by which preservation is effected,
and to refer to the appliances that facilitate the
processes. The methods which demand special
notice here are as follows: — 1, Jam-making; 2,
Jelly-making; 3, Bottling; 4, Crystallizing and
Glazing; 5, Marmalade and Chutney produc¬
tion; 6, Evaporating or Drying; 7, Canning;
8, Cider and Perry manufacture; and 9, Non¬
alcoholic fruit drinks. These methods may also
be classified according to the form in which the
fruit is used, as:

346

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

A Whole fruits (1-3-4).

B Fruit pulp (1-2).

C Sliced fruits (5-6-7);

D Fruit juices (8-9).

Jam-making. — This constitutes the most ex¬
tensively adopted method of dealing with fruits
both for home use and in British factories, and
many thousands of tons are produced annually
to meet the general demand. It is especially
adapted for all the soft fruits, such as Straw¬
berries, Gooseberries, Black and Red Currants,
together with such stone-fruits as Plums and
Apricots, and it is the most satisfactory means
of dealing with these fruits immediately they

are gathered. The method is essential wherever
large supplies have to be utilized quickly to
avoid loss, and it is equally necessary in small
establishments, because, with Strawberries par¬
ticularly, a large proportion of the crop is often
ready for gathering at one time, being influenced
by the weather conditions. As soon as the de¬
mand for the fruit in a fresh state is exceeded,
there will either be a regrettable waste or jam¬
making must be resorted to promptly.

Whether on a large or a small scale the prin¬
ciple is the same, The fruit must be subjected to
heat sufficiently long to sterilize it, but not long
enough to alter its character or impair the flavour
or colour. With the aid of a due amount of
sugar employed in addition (which may vary
from a weight equal to that of the fresh fruit
to half as much again) such jam, carefully pre¬
pared and secured in jars with air-tight coverings
over the mouths, should remain good for an in¬
definite time, certainly until fresh fruit is again
obtainable.

On a small scale and for home use the opera¬
tion is both simple and inexpensive, while at
the same time it is as effectual as that carried
out in a factory. A wide shallow stew-pan of
copper or bell-metal is the only essential utensil,
which can be had in various sizes at proportionate
prices, but the smaller ones can be had for a few
shillings. One of these pans 14 inches in diameter

and 6 inches deep will hold 20 lbs. of fruit and
sugar, and with the help of such a vessel a little
experience will enable anyone to produce 1 cwt.
of good jam per day. This applies to any of
the soft fruits which will not require more than
twenty minutes or half an hour's exposure to
the fire, but with stone fruits, which will need
perhaps three-quarters of an hour, rather less
could be prepared within the same time. A pan
like that described is adapted for placing on an
ordinary kitchen range, or it could be heated
over an oil-stove, but the former is preferable,
and where large ranges are available, two, three,
or more of these pans could be heated at once,
and it is quite possible without any special fac¬
tory to produce a quarter
of a ton of jam a day, or
two to three tons in a
week, which would suffice
for most of the smaller fruit¬
growing establishments.

Where considerable
quantities of fruit are con¬
verted into jam as a regu¬
lar part of the business it is
more convenient and eco¬
nomical to erect a building for the purpose,
which need not be of a pretentious or costly
character. Larger pans are then employed,
which will hold from half to a hundredweight
of fruit; they are double-cased and connected by
pipes with a boiler so that a constant supply of
steam is maintained at a high temperature
immediately under and around the fruit. The
advantage of this method is that the boiling
is done rapidly, and there is not the danger of
burning, which has to be avoided when the pre¬
paration is done over an ordinary fire.

An idea can be formed of the routine work in
a large preserving establishment where the fruit
is grown, from the following particulars of an
extensive factory. The fruit is gathered in
the early hours of the morning, when dry, by a
number of women who come from the neigh¬
bouring country, and who are glad to have the
opportunity of obtaining labour in the open air.
At 8 a.m. the factory work-people arrive from
the surrounding villages, the total number of
hands in the height of the season being about
five hundred. Those from a distance are lodged
on the plantations. The hour for the first de¬
livery of fruit to arrive at the factory is 8 a.m.
This may consist of Strawberries, Red or Black
Currants, and Raspberries, which are picked
free from the stalks on the plantations, and are
ready therefore at once for the boiling-pans,

Fig. 1119.-— Copper Preserving Pan, Fig. 1120.— Double Copper Preserving Pans with

for home use. water space, for home use.

FRUIT-PRESERV IN G.

347

ensuring the retention of flavour and freshness
in the fruit. This is continued throughout the
day, the average quantity of fruit gathered
being from 15 to 20 tons daily. Should the

fruit come into the factory in larger quantities
than can be conveniently made at once into jam,
it is put down in large stone bottles and casks,
perfectly air-tight, for future use, this process

being known as “ pulping ”. The fruit turns
out when required in a month’s time as fresh
and bright as when gathered, if the work is
thoroughly done and immediately the fruit is
received. The sugar used in the manufacture
of these jams is known in the market as White
Dutch Crushed, and no other kind, or any sub-

Fig. 1122. — Swing-tip Jam-pan (steam).

wherever the ordinary methods are employed,
i.e. those in which the pans are placed directly
over the source of heat. To ensure this, atten¬
tion must be paid to the fuel used, and in our

Fig. 1123.— Copper Jam-pan (steam).

stitute such as glucose, is allowed on the premises.
There are sixteen steam pans in use, each ca¬
pable of turning out 1 cwt. of jam about every
twenty to forty minutes, or from 20 to 40 tons
of jam per day of ten hours.

The essentials to the production of the best
results in fruit-boiling and jam-making are as
follows. A steady, clear fire must be maintained

experience the best results have been obtained
by a mixture of hard coal and coke broken small,
in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to
one of the latter. This we have found suitable
for all the principal operations to be afterwards
described. In the boiling itself much care is
also required, with slight occasional gentle stir¬
rings and the removal of the scum which forms

348

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

on the surface by the aid of a wooden ladle.
The stirring must not be done to excess, or the
fruit is broken down unduly, an undesirable re¬
sult, except where pulp alone is required. In
the case of such fruits as Strawberries and Rasp¬
berries it is important to retain the form of the
fruit as far as possible ; but though this can be
accomplished with the first-named fruits it is
very difficult with the others. Whole -fruit
Strawberry jam has gained for some firms a
considerable reputation, and commands prices
well in advance of the pulped products. Special

Fig. 1124.— Glass Jars for Jams.

sorts must, however, be used, to which reference
will be made later in this chapter.

In the effort to produce a high-quality jam
that will take a good place in the market it is
important to turn it out bright and clear. Colour
has a material effect on the selling value of fruit
preserves, and a dull, muddv-looking compound
has no chance side by side with a bright pro¬
duct which has a distinctly appetizing appear¬
ance. So well is this recognized that artificial
colouring is resorted to for the purpose of im¬
proving dull-looking jams. These colouring
matters are now manufactured largely, and
analyses are published to show that they are
free from all injurious substances, but the pure-
fruit product must have the preference, and it
only requires due care to ensure the desired
effect. One of the chief points is absolute
cleanliness in all respects, the fruit should be
gathered when dry and clean, the utensils should
be cleansed after every boiling, and the best
sugars only should be employed. Common or
imperfectly purified sugar will often spoil a
large boiling of good fruit.

For all the best jams neat and clean glass jars
should be used, and though this is an expensive
item in the small quantities such as 1-lb. or 2-lb.
vessels, it is a needful provision and helps the
sale considerably. The cheaper jams and fruit-
pulps that are sold in 3-lb. to 7-lb. quantities
are usually placed in stone jars, and in some
populous districts there is a large demand for
this quality at low rates. Where glass jars are
used careful filling is required to ensure a uni¬
form appearance and to exclude air, but in all
cases the latter must be ensured, or the jam will
not keep well. The surface
of the jam should be covered
with a slip of specially-pre¬
pared, thin, oiled or waxed
paper, and the mouth of the
jars must be covered with
bladder or vegetable parch¬
ment and tied down tightly
and neatly. A tastefully-
designed label indicating the
character of the jam and the
maker’s name should com¬
plete the operation.

The only other questions
to be considered are those
relating to the storing and
packing. In storing, a cool
dry place should be chosen,
where a fairly uniform tem¬
perature can be maintained,
and where the jam is not exposed to full light.
Under such circumstances well -prepared jam
will keep good for a great length of time, but
obviously there is no object in retaining such
preserved fruit until the next season, except
that an unusually heavy crop one season may
be followed by a poor one the next, when good
prices can be obtained. But to take full ad¬
vantage of such an occurrence it is necessary to
prepare the preserve very cheaply, and even
then, with the cost of storing, the possible losses,
and the interest on the capital, it is not a very
encouraging risk. Then, too, there is always
the chance that a second “glut” may follow,
which would mean a heavy loss. As a general
rule, if jam is prepared so that it will keep sound
for at least a year, it is all that is requisite, and
most traders dispose of the bulk of the produce
within a few months of the end of the fresh
fruit season.

In packing, straw is usually employed, but
the coarse grades of wood wool are now cheap,
and are preferable for all small consignments
of glass jars. With well-constructed boxes or

FRUIT-PRESERVING.

349

oases some dozens of 1-lb. or 2-lb. jars can be
packed as securely as could be desired, and
they can be sent with safety long distances by
road, rail, or sea. In the latter instance, espe¬
cially if the consignment is to pass through
tropical regions, it is preferable to have double
cases, as then the space between the inner and
outer case can be packed with non-conducting
material, which will ensure much better results
when the consignment is opened at the end of
the journey.

Jelly -making. — This is a more tedious and
expensive process than that just described, but
well-made fruit- jelly commands a good price,
and the method is especially valuable as applied
to some kinds of fruits which do not yield a
jam that is readily saleable. Its greatest utility
is, however, found in the fact that it is one of
the best and most profitable means of dealing
with the waste from other processes, or for con¬
verting into a market product refuse fruit that
would otherwise be lost altogether. Beyond
this, it is desirable wherever fruit-preserving is
attempted on a systematic basis, to introduce
as much variety as possible; one class of goods
will sell when another will not, and frequently
where high quality is aimed at they help each
other. Therefore jelly-making should be recog¬
nized as an essential part of the preserving de¬
partment, and the attention demanded to ensure
the best results should be duly provided.

The apparatus and appliances already indi¬
cated will suffice for jelly- manufacture, though
some of the larger firms that make a speciality
of this department employ boiling-pans of a
more costly character, lined with non-corrodable
metals, but these are not essential, though they
undoubtedly assist in the production of a high-
class article. The principal requirement is,
however, the greatest care on the part of the-
operator, with close observation, as experience
teaches many little details that cannot be set
down in writing. The object is to extract the
largest possible portions of those compounds
present in the fruit which constitute the pectin
or vegetable jelly, together with the essential
flavour and colouring principles that distinguish
the particular fruit under treatment. Some
kinds of fruits are notably abundant in pectose
or pectin, and especially remarkable in this
respect is the Apple, not only the cultivated
varieties, but also the common Crabs. Indeed,
Apples that from a horticultural point of view
are considered so inferior as to be not worthy
of cultivation, can often be converted into an
excellent jelly. The paring and coring refuse

from the preparation of Apples for drying is
similarly productive when properly dealt with.
Gooseberries, Red and Black Currants, with
Plums and Quinces, are all utilizable in the
same way with satisfactory results.

The first part of the work after cleaning and
duly preparing the fruit so that no foreign sub¬
stances be present to affect the flavour, is boiling
for the extraction of the juice. In the case of
jam-making the only object is to sterilize to
assist in the preservation, and the operation is
therefore performed as quickly as possible; but
in jelly-making the boiling must be prolonged
considerably. It is here that the judgment
and experience of the worker are so important,
for if insufficiently done the whole of the sub¬
sequent labour is thrown away. As much as
two hours’ boiling is needed for some fruits,
such as refuse Apples, Crabs, &c., but this may
be taken as a limit, and for Apples of less sub¬
stance an hour to an hour and a half will suffice.
For the more delicate fruits, such as Currants
and Gooseberries, from half an hour to three-
quarters will usually be enough to effect the
desired object. In this first boiling no sugar
is used, and the next part of the process is a
careful straining of the prepared juice through
a very fine meshed sieve or straining-bag. The
subsequent clearness and brilliance will depend
upon the way this straining is performed, as a
very small amount of the solid substances will
cause a cloudiness that detoacts materially from
the value of the jelly from a selling point of
view.

The most critical part of the work is the
second boiling, with the sugar, where the fruit-
extract alone is depended upon for the forma¬
tion of the jelly; an insufficient or slightly too
long exposure to heat will effectually prevent
the gelatinizing process. For some juices, such
as Red Currant, a few minutes will suffice,
while for others, such as Apples, from half an
hour to an hour and a half will be needed. In
every case the substance should be tested at
frequent intervals by placing a little in a cold
plate to see if it thickens. The quantity of
sugar necessary will also vary with different
fruits, from half the weight of the extract to
an equal weight; or from about 5 lbs. to 10 lbs.
per gallon. The principal details under this
head will be given under the respective fruits
later in this chapter; we are only seeking here
to make the general process understood.

Immediately it is seen that the boiling has
proceeded far enough, the concentrated juice
should be poured into the glass jars placed in

350

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

readiness for the purpose, and if the work has
been successfully performed the jelly should set
in a few minutes. To avoid loss, if it is seen
before the extract is poured out that it is not
likely to set properly, a little of the purest
gelatine may be added, and when the work is
carried out on a large scale this is often adopted
as a general precaution. With experience and
care that course is not however essential, and
the pure-fruit jelly is such a delicious substance
that it is not desirable to introduce any foreign
matter even though it be absolutely innocuous.
Still, a considerable quantity of imitation fruit
jellies is manufactured, and by means of arti¬
ficial colouring and artificial flavours, a large
number of which are produced chemically, a
substance of very good appearance and pleasant
taste can be turned out, which may command a
sale in preference to the genuine extract of the
fruit by reason of its price. This is regrettable,
because there is an ample field for the extension
of fruit-jelly production, and a little experience
in the comparison of the true article with the
imitation will conclusively prove the superiority
of the former from a dietetic point of view.

Marmalade. — This is practicalhT a form of
jam-making, in which the whole fruit is cut
into thin slices and boiled with sugar until the
solid portions are thoroughly cooked, and suf¬
ficient pulp is formed to render it agreeable.
Though employed so extensively in the conver¬
sion of Oranges into a confection, this process
is not applicable to hardy fruits grown in this
climate, with the exception of the Quince. From
this a richly-flavoured and highly-coloured pre¬
serve can be made at comparatively small cost
beyond the value of the fruit and the sugar em¬
ployed. The supply is always limited, and the
demand is fairly good at paying prices for the
best quality. Where it is sought to provide a
general stock of preserves for sale it is advis¬
able to have a few boilings of Seville Oranges
in addition; Lemons also are occasionally em¬
ployed in the same way. The clearest and
brightest products appear to the best advantage
in glass jars, but some of the lai’ge firms use
1-lb. white glazed earthenware gallipots in enor¬
mous numbers, the surface either plain or fluted,
and suitably labelled.

Crystallizing and Glazing. — By far the most
costly and troublesome process connected with
fruit -preserving, is that concerned in the pro¬
duction of crystallized or glazed fruits, but at
the same time there is no form which com¬
mands such large prices. At certain periods
of the year, especially at Christmas, the demand

is considerable, but large supplies are obtained
from the Continent or America, and to compete
with these the British manufacturers must be
prepared to produce a fii'st-class article and
exercise the utmost taste in displaying the
goods. The neat little boxes of crystallized
fruits which reach our markets have the fruits
carefully packed in layers separated by white
paper, and, margined with delicately-stamped
paper-lace, they lnrve quite an artistic appear¬
ance. They serve as seasonable and attractive
presents, and the extra care and taste bestowed
upon them yield a large return in the higher
price realized. It is only in this way that
crystallizing can be made to pay, and that is
one reason perhaps why it is seldom attempted
here on a large scale. Still, so long as sugar is
I not excessively dear, it is a method that should
be included in the operations of any producer,
particularly as there is practically no limit to
the time the fruit will keep, provided it is not
exposed to damj) or excessive heat. In conse¬
quence it is admirably adapted for exportation,
as many of the American firms have realized in
recent years, and it constitutes a growing por¬
tion of their business.

Almost any kind of fruit can be treated in
this way, but those most usually employed are
Green-gages, Apricots, Cherries, small Pears, and
occasionally small Apples. The first three gener¬
ally have their stones removed, while the others
are cut into quarters, pared and cored. With
all, the object is the same, namely, to substitute
sugar- syrup for the natural moisture of the
fruit, a process which can only be accomplished
in a very gradual manner. The samples must
be selected with great care also, as, if too ripe
or not sufficient^ ripe, they will not absorb
the sugar freely enough to effect the desired
! purpose. It is customary to place the prepared
fruits in clean willow baskets and dip them in
boiling water until the fruit is slightly softened
and a portion of the juice extracted. But
though this is a safe process with regard to
Apples, Pears, the firmer Plums, and Apricots,
yet with the more delicate Plums, such as Green¬
gages, for instance, it requires to be done with
the greatest caution or the fruit will be spoiled
for the intended purpose, the skin being cracked
or the substance softened to an undue extent.
For some a few minutes will suffice, for others
perhaps ten minutes or a quarter of an hour
will be needed for the first soaking; but judg¬
ment must be exercised in all cases, as absolute
rules cannot be laid down.

A thick syrup of fine white sugar must be

FRUIT-PRESERVING.

351

prepared, and, after the fruit has been placed
in layers, in large shallow earthenware jars,
poured over them slowly, so that all the spaces
between the fruits may be filled. In this way
the fruit is often allowed to remain a consider¬
able time — not less than three weeks, and per¬
haps for a month or more. But in the meantime
it will require to be frequently examined, and
if indications of fermentation or mouldiness are
perceived, the vessels should be placed on a
stove and the temperature increased until the
above tendencies are checked; this being re¬
peated until the fruit is thoroughly saturated
with the syrup. It is then removed, cleaned,
and sorted.

To glaze or crystallize fruit that has been
through this process, a hot syrup of the best
sugar is prepared, and the fruits are dipped into
it (either in sieves or baskets) until they are well
covered ; if to be glazed, they are dried rapidly
in a cool, dry, airy place free from dust; if to be
crystallized, they are dried very gradually in a
warm position; should the process be not quite
satisfactory the fruit may be dipped a second
time.

Chutney. — Although this method is only suit¬
able for two kinds of fruit, i.e. Apples and To¬
matoes, it is of sufficient importance to merit a
few words of reference, because it is a means
that has been generally neglected, or performed
in so unsatisfactory a manner as to excite a
prejudice against it. The majority of Apples
can be utilized in this way, and they need not
be either the best fruits nor the best varieties
from a garden point of view. As frequently
prepared, the Apples, after being pared, cored,
and sliced, are cut into small slices after the
style of Marmalade, but we have found it far
better to pass the Apple rings through a small
mincing machine, which reduces the divisions to
a uniform size, and small enough to be readily
mixed with the other ingredients. What these
should comprise will depend upon the taste of
the producer to a great extent, but a small
portion of finely-chopped Onions or Garlic, a
little mustard-seed, and a pinch or two of gin¬
ger are essential, while other flavourings will
suggest themselves. The whole should be
thoroughly boiled for about two to three hours,
and then placed in glass or earthenware jars,
and tied down as with jams and jellies.

Bottling Whole Fruits. — However skilfully
fruits may be preserved with the aid of sugar
it cannot be done without, to some extent, sacri¬
ficing the essential flavours of the finest sorts;
any system, therefore, which can effect the same

purpose without the addition of sugar will
always command favour with a great number
of persons. For several years the bottling of
fruits has been extending as a portion of the
preserving industry, and the only matter which
checks its development in a much more rapid
degree is the cost of the bottles. Some con¬
tinental glass manufacturers are now entering
into keen competition with British makers, and
it is probable that prices will be reduced, as in
many cases they are out of proportion to that
of other cheap glass-ware in the market. It is
of course requisite to have well-made bottles of
clear glass, and if they could be charged and
allowed for when returned in the same way that
beer bottlers do, it would facilitate this impor¬
tant work considerably.

The method is particularly adapted for Plums,
Green Gooseberries, Damsons, Cherries, and Red

Fig. 1125.— Glass Bottles for whole Fruit.

Currants, and when well-selected fruits are em¬
ployed and care is exercised in filling the bottles
a very attractive result is obtained. The quan¬
tities displayed in shop windows prove that the
retailers find a substantial demand, and also
that they appreciate the show value of such
goods. But it is not only on a commercial scale
that bottling is important, it is a method that
can be employed by the smallest fruit-growers
and in the houses of fanners or cottagers. The
desirability of extending the system in this
direction has been recognized by some of the
horticultural societies and county councils, and
either prizes or other inducements have been
offered to encourage competition amongst cot¬
tagers and those in the occupation of small
holdings.

352

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT

The process is very simple, and is essentially
the same whether provision is being made for
a dozen bottles or as many thousands. If the
fruit to be dealt with is gathered clean and dry
from the trees, and the bottles are in a similar
condition, no further preparation is required.
It can be placed at once in the bottles, and all
is ready for the final operation. A wide boiler
must be used sufficiently deep to hold water up
to the necks of the bottles, or about a foot in
depth, a convenient size of bottle being from 10
to 11 inches high, with the mouth 2 inches in
diameter. It is well to have a layer of canvas
or some similar material at the bottom of the
boiler, and this is equally useful between the
bottles, as it will assist in reducing the danger
of breakages.

The fruit should be placed in the bottles, the
mouths of which should be left open. They are

Fig. 1126.— Lee’s Patent Fruit-bottlin-g Apparatus, showing thermometer
(a) at side, aud bottles placed in boiler ready for heating.

then placed in the boiler, which is filled with
water to the desired height, and then it must
be slowly raised to the boiling-point. As a rule,
by the time the water is boiling the fruit is suf¬
ficiently cooked for keeping; it is not advisable
to overdo it, or when turned out for use subse¬
quently it will be soft and flavourless. The form
of the fruit should be preserved, as if any of it
splits, or the skin of Plums is broken, its appear¬
ance is spoiled and the selling value greatly
diminished. A kettle of boiling water must be
at hand, and as fast as the bottles are removed
from the fire they should be filled with this
water and immediately tied down with bladder,
or corked and sealed with common sealing-wax
or bottle-wax, in such a manner as to effectually
prevent the admission of air; the fruit will then
keep for a year or more.

Several manufacturing firms have brought out

simple, cheap appliances for bottling fruits on a
small scale. One of these is a round metal boiler
that will contain about a dozen bottles at a
time, and is adapted for use on an ordinary stove
or fire. This is sold with two dozen patent
bottles at as low as 35s., the bottles themselves
being fitted with metallic tops, which are secured
by spring clips that are easily removed and re¬
placed though they answer all the purposes of
an air-tight cork or bladder top. In some of
these apparatus a kettle is connected with the
side, and steam thus takes the place of a direct
application of heat from a fire. Whatever method
is adopted the essential part of the business is
that the boiling should not be done too rapidly,
and the more gradually it is done within reason
the more likely is the fruit to retain its form,
colour, and flavour, so that when required for
use it should as nearly as possible resemble the
fresh product.

Fruit Evaporating or Drying.- — As regards its
economic bearing upon the fruit culture of other
countries, but especially in America, Germany,
and France, the process of preserving fruits by
evaporating or drying is by far the most im¬
portant and extensive. In Great Britain at
present it has only been tried in an exj^eri-
mental or tentative manner, but some have
already proved that it can be utilized to good
purpose, and there is an increasing demand for
information of a reliable character, i.e. that re¬
sulting from experience. The Royal Agricul¬
tural Society and the Royal Horticultural
Society have endeavoured to draw attention to
the matter in England, both by the institution
of experiments and by the publication of reports.
Individual experimenters and a few firms have
also taken up the work, and evidence is now
accumulating bearing upon the possibility of
making the operation profitable in this country.

A few years ago Mr. D. Pidgeon contributed
a report to the Journal of the Boyal Agricul¬
tural Society, which summarized the case as re¬
gards the United States, and it is interesting to
compare what he says with the conditions that'
prevail in Great Britain: — “Why is the British
farmer so slow and his transatlantic cousin and
competitor so quick in adapting himself to
altered conditions of cultivation1? The entry
of the Great West in the character of a wheat-
grower upon the agricultural stage of the world
created a depression in the agriculture of the
Eastern States of America, no less marked than
that which followed from the same cause in
England. New England no more than Old
England could after that entry any longer

KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES.

393

having been done, the ground may be forked
over, a good soaking of liquid manure given,
and, with the exception of keeping it free of
weeds, nothing further is required till the
plants come into bearing in June or July.

Artichokes may be forwarded somewhat by
means of a framework and a covering of mats,
and the season be prolonged in the autumn with
similar aids. Every year, as the crop is gathered,
the flower-stems should be cut down, as pre¬
viously indicated; and the same treatment with
respect to protection from frost, removing
suckers, forking the ground, &c., should be
pursued. After the second year, however, a
quantity of well-decomposed dung or sea-weed
ought to be forked in before winter. Notwith¬
standing the care taken in protecting the plants
in winter, they are sometimes injured by frost.
During extra severe winters the stock, if im¬
perfectly protected, is frequently nearly all
killed, and in this case the plan of lifting the
survivors and starting them in heat with a view
to obtaining a number of suckers for rooting in
pots is to be commended.

Artichokes seldom continue in good bearing
longer than four or five years ; therefore a fresh
plantation should be made every third or fourth
year. As the plants in fresh plantations bear
later in the season than those in old ones, some
persons make a small plantation every year, with
the view of prolonging the production.

If chards are required, when old plantations
are to be destroyed, the plants should be cut
over a little above the ground as soon as the
principal part of the crop has been gathered;
and when the leaves are about 2 feet high, they
may be tied up and blanched like Cardoons.

In Italy, besides the head and chard, another
product is obtained from the Artichoke; the
stem is bent down at right angles, the leaf-stalks
collected together, and the whole covered up to
blanch. The result is a lump called gobbo, or
hunchback, which is tender, and said to be very
palatable when eaten raw with salt. It is used in
autumn and winter as a substitute for Radishes.

Except in very warm seasons the Artichoke
does not ripen its seeds in this country. If,
notwithstanding this, an attempt to save seed
be made, the heads should be sheltered from
rain, either by gradually bending them down
so as to throw off the wet, or by some other
means. The seeds keep five or six years.

The varieties cultivated are: — -

Globe (or Large Round-headed). — This has dull-purplish
heads, with incurved scales, and is the sort most esteemed
in this country.

Green (Common or French) has a conical or ovate head,
with recurved scales.

Purple (Violet) has a medium-sized head, pointed scales,
green tinged with purplish-red on the outside. Is earlier
than the preceding sorts.

Several other varieties are described by French
authors: —

Gros Camus has a large flat head, pale-green in colour,
but less fleshy than some.

Large Green or Be Laon (fig. 1147) is most esteemed and
is largely cultivated in Paris.

Perpetual (fig. 1149). — Remarkable for its habit of
growing and producing heads all the year round in

Fig. 1149.— Artichoke— Perpetual.

climates favourable to it. Is largely grown in the south
of France. The heads are purplish.

Asparagus ( Asparagus officinalis). — A hardy
perennial, native of Europe and Asia. Gerrard
says the manured or garden Asparagus is the
same as the wild, but, like other vegetables,
was made larger by cultivation; that it grows
wild in Essex and in Lincolnshire, and in great
plenty near Harwich. Phillips’ History of Culti¬
vated Vegetables says: — “It is well known how
nnfck the Asparagus is improved in size since
Gerrard ’s time (1597), and it might be still
further improved if our gardeners were to im-

394

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

port roots of this plant from the borders of the
Euphrates, where it grows to an extraordinary
thickness. Pliny states that Asparagus, which
formerly grew wild, was in his time carefully
cultivated in gardens, particularly at Ravenna,
where it was grown so fair and large that three
shoots would weigh a pound. It is naturalized
in America, near the coast, most probably from
seeds which have escaped from garden plants.”

The plant consists of a cluster of fleshy roots
springing from the base of the stem, where a
quantity of buds are formed, from which shoots
annually push, and these in their young and
tender state form the edible part (fig. 1150).

Fig. 1150.— Asparagus— Giant Dutch Purple.

The shoots, which are annual, attain a height
of from 3 to 6 feet and bear numerous branches,
clothed with small, linear, bright-green leaves.
The flowers are small, star-shaped, and white,
and the fruits are pea-like berries coloured
bright red. Differences of soil, climate, situation,
and cultivation have resulted in several recog¬
nizable variations, and it is probable also that
seedling sports have been fixed. Accordingly
there are numerous named sorts, the name
usually indicating the district where the variety
originated. The colour of the young stems
depends greatly on the nature and texture of
the soil ; and with regard to size we may men¬
tion that in one part of Mr. Grayson’s extensive
plantations on the south side of the Thames the
so-called Giant variety was produced, and in
another part the common sort; but when both
were made to change places, the common ac¬
quired the dimensions of the Giant, whilst the
latter diminished to the ordinary size.

Propagation, — Asparagus seeds may either be
soAvn broadcast on prepared ground, and the
plants thinned out, or in drills in nursery-beds,
where the plants can remain for one or two
years before being finally planted out. The
soil for the nursery-bed should be light, rich,
and sandy. The seeds should be sown in drills
half an inch deep in October, or in March or
April. The seedlings should be thinned when
they are 2 inches high.

Soil and Situation. — A rich sandy alluvial soil,
impregnated with saline matters, is naturally
best adapted for the growth of Asparagus, and
in such soil its cultivation is an easy matter.
Soils of a different texture may be made rich
enough with manure; but whilst the soil retains
too great a degree of stiffness, the results of
cultivation will not prove satisfactory, nor will
the produce bear comparison with that from
soil naturally well adapted for the growth of
the plant. The large Asparagus from Argen-
teuil is chiefly grown on a sandy loam, and by
a peculiar mode of culture, which will be pre¬
sently described, and the cultivators think that
on soil of this character the shoots attain a
greater size than on very light sandy ground,
but are produced on the latter more abundantly.

The situation for Asparagus should be open
to the sun, and sheltered from strong winds.

Preparation of the Beds. — The effectual drain¬
age of the soil should be the first consideration;
for although the plant grows naturally in salt
marshes, and therefore cannot be said to dis¬
like moisture, yet moisture, to be beneficial,
must be accompanied with heat. If cold rains
occur in spring, after the beds are warmed by
the sun and are in full cutting, growth and
production will be arrested; but warm rains
later in the season are, on the contrary, favour¬
able in both respects. The plant requires
Avarmth in the soil, and undrained soil retains
the coldness of winter.

The ground should therefore be drained,
trenched, or made good to the depth of 3 feet,
and a large quantity of manure introduced;
also, near the top, such materials as the scour-
ings of ponds or ditches, sea-Aveed, decayed
leaves or leaf-mould, turfy peat, charred soil,
decayed hot-bed dung, all of which are excel¬
lent. Heavy crops of Asparagus are groAvn
Avhere the bottom is a yelloAv, rather heavy
loam, and the top has been made light from
long working and plentiful manuring. In
trenching for Asparagus, the heavy subsoil is
neither turned up nor mixed Avith the upper
soil, as might be advisable for some crops; on

KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES.

399

two handfuls of well-decomposed manure, and
finally with an inch of soil, making a little
hillock an inch high over each stool, and putting
in a stick to mark the place of the plants, and
prevent injury to the roots in hoeing.

In October the stalks are cut off at 6 inches
from the surface,, the surface cleaned, the ridges
dug a foot deep, and the plants manured. The
roots having been carefully uncovered with a
hoe over a circle 8 inches in diameter, one or
two handfuls of well-decayed dung are placed
over every crown, and covered with about 3
inches of light soil, raising a hillock 2 inches
high over each, and marking any vacant places
with a small stick.

In the second year the failures are replaced
in March or April, using strong one-year-old
plants, and stakes 3 feet long are pushed in
slantwise at an angle of 45° near each plant.
The ground is hoed at the beginning of April,
and as soon as the shoots are large enough they
are tied to the stakes to prevent breakage by
wind. In October the withered stalks are cut off
8 inches above the ground, the ridges manured
and dug over, and the stakes removed. The
crowns are uncovered down to the manure, the
soil about them loosened by the hand, and two
inches of soil put on, always forming if into a
conical mound.

In the third year, about the middle of March,
mounds from 6 to 8 inches high are formed
over each crown, according to its strength, but
the plants used to fill up blanks are only covered
4 inches deep, and are afterwards left alone.
In taking the shoots for use they are removed
with the fingers so as to avoid injuring the stool,
an asparagus knife only being used, if at all, to
remove the earth and trace out the base of the
shoot. The shoots are taken when 2 inches
above-ground, by passing one finger behind
their base, and, by pressing the shoot aside, it
is easily detached. The soil is then returned.
At most only three or four shoots are taken
from each stool. In April, stakes 4 feet 3 inches
long are put in, and the stalks tied to them,
and in October the withered stems are cut over
1 0 inches above the surface, and cleared entirely
away, the ground cleaned, and a good dressing
of manure given. In doing this the soil of the
trenches is entirely cleared out to the depth of
4 inches, casting it on the ridges; it is replaced
with half that depth of well-rotted dung, the
withered stems are shortened, except one, which
is left to show the position of the stool, and,
after digging the ridges, the manure is covered
with about 1J inch of soil, at the same time

raising a mound of 3 inches high over each
crown, and marking with a stick any that are
weak.

In the fourth year, mounds 10 or 12 inches
high are formed over each plant, but the weak
stools marked in the previous autumn are only
covered half that depth. In May, when the ridges
are hoed, some earth is drawn into the trenches,
and stakes 4 feet 9 inches high are put in. In
October the stems are cut over at 14 inches
above the ground, the ridges are manured and
dug, the mounds in the trenches levelled, the
soil in the trenches thrown out as in the pre¬
vious year, some handfuls of well -decayed
manure placed over the crowns, and mounds
3 inches high raised over them.

In the fifth year the mounds are raised in
March to about 14 inches high. The whole of
the shoots of the strong stools are taken for use,
but only a few from those which are. weak. The
shoots are removed for about two months daily,
every second day, or every third day at most,
according to the temperature, and when showing
about 2 inches above ground, and of a red or
violet colour. The plants are staked and securely
tied, and in October the stems are cut over, the
soil of the mounds thrown on the ridges, the
trenches manured as in the third year, the
ridges dug, and the manure covered.

In the sixth year the Asparagus will be in
full production; it is mounded up 14 inches
high from the crown, and the autumn treatment
is the same as in the fourth year.

Cutting the Stems. — In doing this a little of
the soil is taken from beside the shoot Avith the
Asparagus knife, which is then pushed down,
but so as not to endanger the crown, or other
shoots that may be pushing up, then turning

Fig. 1153.— Asparagus Knife.

the edge of the knife towards the shoot, the
latter is cut, or rather saAvecl off. It is the
practice near London to cut off all the shoots as
they appear, up to the period Avhen it is thought
proper to leave off cutting altogether ; the period
for doing this depending on the climate, season,
nature of the soil, and strength of the plants.
Where the climate is good, or when the season
is an early one, cutting must commence early;
and of course, in that case, it ought not to be
continued late, othenvise the plants Avill be
Aveakened. When green Peas can be had,
Asparagus is less required; so that, in the south¬
ern parts of the kingdom, the cutting may cease

400

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

towards the middle of June, and in the northern
parts by the end of that month. If the plants
are weak, they ought to be allowed to grow up
as early as possible to make foliage, and conse¬
quently fresh roots, and thus to acquire more
vigour for the ensuing year. It is also advisable
to leave off cutting, at an early period, some of
the best of the beds formed for early produce,
in order that the shoots may be well matured
early in autumn; and consequently that the
young shoots may be prepared to push vigor¬
ously early in spring.

Duration of the Plantation. — Asparagus beds
in favourable soil will continue to bear well for
many years if properly managed, especially as
regards cutting; but if too severely cut they
will soon become unproductive, however well
they may have been originally formed, or how¬
ever good their treatment in other respects.
By continually cutting off all the shoots through¬
out the season, as they appeared, the plants
would be completely destroyed, just as the
most obstinate weeds would ultimately be if so
treated. If a strong Asparagus root were allowed
to mature all the shoots it produced, these of
course would return organized matter for the
formation of still finer buds, and production
of a proportionate quantity of fresh roots. But
if all the shoots are cut off as they appear,
except one, perhaps, late in the season, sap can¬
not be elaborated for the proper maintenance
of the whole of the roots, and consequently a
portion of those least in connection with the
shoot which is left will perish. If the same
severe process of cutting is pursued the follow¬
ing season, the plant is almost certain to suc¬
cumb. When blanks begin to appear in beds,
the latter should in future be more sparingly
dealt with. There is only one case in which
severe cutting is excusable, and that is when
a piece of Asparagus is about to be thrown up,
then market-gardeners and others cut as long
as the produce pays for the trouble of cutting.

The duration of Asparagus beds mainly de¬
pends on the manner in which cutting is con¬
ducted. If carefully done, the beds may con¬
tinue in good bearing for fifteen or twenty years,
and even longer. It should, however, be re¬
membered that to have fresh beds in bearing
condition to supply the place of those past good
yielding, four or five years must elapse from the
time of sowing, and therefore it is not good
practice to unduly delay the starting of new
beds.

Seeds. — Some of the finest shoots which push
in the early part of the season, and on the south

sides of the beds, should be allowed to run up
for seed. As the stems grow up, some of the
most promising may be tied to stakes to prevent
breakage by the wind; but in doing this care
should be taken not to crowd the branches, in
order that the foliage may be exposed to the
light as freely and equally as possible. With
the growth of plants so reserved, that of others
adjoining should not be allowed to interfere.
When at maturity the largest of the red berries
should be selected. After lying a week or two
they may either be squeezed between the hands,
and the seeds washed from the pulp, or the
berries may be dried, in which case the seeds
will keep the longest.

Forcing Asparagus (Figs. 1154). — This is an
industry of some importance in the neighbour¬
hood of Paris. It is also practised in a few

Fig. 1154 — View and Section of Frames for forcing Asparagus
(French Method).

gardens in this country. The following account
of the French method of forcing is taken from
Robinson’s Parks and Gardens of Paris : — “The
forcing alone of Asparagus throughout the
autumn, winter, and early spring is an industry
of considerable extent. In one of the most
recently-organized and active of these gardens
about half an acre of glass is devoted solely to
the forcing of Asparagus, and a supply is ob¬
tained from early in September to the end of
April. It is forced in three ways — in houses
heated with hot water; in frames in the ground
and heated in the same way; and lastly, in
frames covered with stable - manure. It ap¬
pears to be forced with equal success in each
case, though the stable-manure seems to offer
the simplest means. As usual here, the frames
are small, about 4 feet wide; the roots are
placed directly on the manure, not flat, as they
would be in the open ground, but packed as
closely as possible, from 500 to 2000 plants,
according to size, going under one light. A
mere sprinkling of soil is placed over them. As

KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES.

401

u result the shoots come up very thickly. The
plants are strong ones, three years old; as
many as five crops of roots follow each other
throughout the autumn, winter, and spring in
the same frame. The universal straw mat is
used to cover the frames at night.”

The old mode of forcing Asparagus, still
practised to some extent, chiefly consists in
d igging deep trenches between beds planted for
the purpose, covering the beds with the soil and
with frames, filling in the trenches between the
frames with stable-manure, and protecting the
frames with straw mats and litter to keep in
the heat. In the beginning of November the
pathways between the beds of Asparagus are
dug up about 2 feet in depth and width. The
soil coming from the pathway is divided very
carefully, and put about 8 inches thick upon the
surface of the bed. The trench is filled up with
new stable-manure, not litter, and frames placed
on the bed. The manure should rise as high
as the top of the frames, and the lights be
entirely covered with mats and litter to pre¬
vent the accumulated heat from escaping. The
sashes are put on, and no air is given; on the
contrary, they are covered at night with straw
mats, and also during the day in cold weather,
a temperature of from 60° to 75° being con¬
sidered desirable. We should, however, prefer
starting with a temperature of between 50° and
60°, as is done by means of hot -water pipes
in the Royal Gardens at Frogmore. The heat
may be increased so as to range between 60°
and 65°, or not exceeding 70°; for it is found
that when Asparagus is forced too rapidly it
is not so good as when it is brought forward
gradually, with a temperature resembling that
of a very fine May. Where glass is used, a
good deal of sun-heat may be economized by
keeping the sashes closed till the shoots appear.
In the open air the finest and most tender
shoots are produced in beds that have been
exposed to powerful sun-heat.

In about a fortnight or three weeks the As¬
paragus begins to show itself on the surface
of the bed. Many market - gardeners cover
the whole of the bed inside the frame to a
thickness of 3 or 4 inches with manure to
force the vegetation more quickly, but in this
case the manure must be removed when the
Asparagus begins to shoot. When the shoots
are about 3 inches out of the ground they may
be cut. The mats must be taken off in the day¬
time, but the heat must be well kept up, or the
roots and buds will fail to push. The beds are
forced every second year only. The gathering

of the Asparagus may continue for about two
months, but no longer, or the plantation would
be injured. When the gathering is over, the
frames and linings may be taken away, and the
soil which has been dug up from the alleys put
back again.

When the trenches are partially filled up after
forcing is over, and the dung turned out, the
roots strike into the decaying substances usually
employed, so that when the beds are again about
to be forced, these roots are destroyed in clearing
out the trenches for the reception of the dung,
and they are generally the most vigorous. This
proceeding, in fact, deprives the plant of its most
efficient feeders at the time they are most wanted.
It is better to keep the trenches open, so as not
to encourage the roots in that direction. In this
case it would be well to cover over the trenches,
in order to prevent the soil of the beds from
being dried. In some instances the sides of beds
intended to be forced by dung-heat have been
faced with bricks in the pigeon-hole fashion, and
where the expense can be afforded, this plan
answers very well.

In some places it is difficult to procure dung
for the purpose of forcing, and in any case it is
doubtful whether heating by hot water is not
cheaper in the end. The labour required for
working dung linings is very considerable, and
would go far towards defraying the expense of
fuel. At all events the hot-water mode answers
well where it has been adopted, as, for example,
in the Royal Gardens at Frogmore. The beds
there are 75 feet long and 7 feet wide; their
sides are formed with pigeon-hole brickwork,
and the spaces between the beds are 4 feet deep;
but the lower half is filled with rich soil, and in
the upper half there are a flow and a return pipe
for hot water, connected with a boiler which
heats six ranges of flow and return pipes. The
cavities for the pipes are covered with York¬
shire stone, and the beds themselves with a
close-fitting wooden roof. Some think 7 feet
too great a width for the beds; we should re¬
commend 6 feet; and where such substantial
covering as Yorkshire stone cannot be afforded,
wooden covers will answer the purpose. At
Frogmore forcing is usually commenced in
December, and a supply obtained in about a
month. A little air and light, when the shoots
begin to reach the surface, much improve their
flavour and appearance. In every case avoid
forcing every growth out of the crowns, as it
is important that the plants should grow as
strongly during the summer as those not forced
Do not wholly withdraw all the protective

402

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

material directly forcing ceases, but keep the
beds littered over till all danger from severe
frosts is passed. These forced beds should also
be very liberally treated as regards manuring,
abundant supplies of liquid manure during the
growing season doing excellent service.

Forcing Removed Plants. — As yet there are
few places where Asparagus in permanently
planted beds is forced, the more convenient
practice of lifting and forcing plants prevailing.
Nor do many growers prepare a stock of plants
specially for forcing, probably because this can¬
not well be done under two or three years.
Those, however, with plenty of garden room
would do well to prepare a few thousand plants
for forcing, as the produce from strong young
plants is usually very superior to that obtained
from old plants. Ground that would grow
good Potatoes would suit Asparagus. Either
sow the seed thinly in drills 30 inches apart,
eventually thinning out to a distance of 9
inches apart, or else plant 1 -year-old roots at
the same distances apart. Keep them free from
weeds, mulch before dry hot weather is antici¬
pated, and then nothing but poverty at the
roots will prevent a strong growth.

In most large gardens a fresh bed is formed
every spring, the oldest bed being broken up
for forcing. If the beds are well prepared,
and fresh sites chosen each time, this gradually
brings a garden into a highly cultivated state.

The plants for forcing should be carefully
lifted, enough being taken to fill a two-light
or three-light frame, or the same number of
lights in a pit to be forced at one time, un¬
less a large supply is wanted at any particular
date, in which case a period of from 15 to 30
days, according to the time of year, should be
allowed, a close succession to be kept up by
means of fresh relays of plants every fortnight or
three weeks. Seeing that it is impossible to lift
when the ground is frozen, severe frosts should
be anticipated either by lifting a good supply of
plants and storing in fine moist soil under cover
or else by covering the beds with strawy manure.
Asparagus forces readily in pits, bottom-heat
being afforded by a gentle hot-bed of manure
and leaves, and top-heat by means of hot-water
pipes. It can also be forced successfully in
ordinary frames on mild hot-beds. Keep the
lights close, and mat over heavily till the shoots
are coming up freely, when a little light and air
during mild days should be admitted. Force
all the growth out of the plants, and then throw
them away as being no longer of any value.
Divide the shoots into grades, mixed bundles

not finding favour. The smallest shoots may
be used in soup-making.

Green or even blanched Asparagus may be
produced in any forcing-house, in a temporary
pit formed of wood, or in boxes. The latter
may be made so as to rest one above the other,
in order to occupy comparatively little base
room. They may be 2 feet wide, 3 feet long,
and 1 foot deep, with an upright 20 inches long
secured inside the box in each corner. The
uprights, standing 8 inches above the upper
edges of the box, will serve as posts for sup¬
porting another similar box, and leave space for
the growth of the shoots and for cutting. In
this way four or five tiers may be placed along
the back wall of a vinery or other forcing-house
at work.

Insects , dx. — See chapter on this subject.

Leaf Enemies. — Garden Pebble Moth.

Balm ( Melissa officinalis). — A hardy peren¬
nial, native of south Europe. Its young shoots
are sometimes employed in salads instead of
Parsley. It is also used for making a decoction
known as Balm-tea.

It prefers a light warm soil, and is propagated
by division early in spring. The subsequent
culture is confined to keeping the ground free
of weeds, and stirring it occasionally ; the stems
should be cut down when frost sets in; by these
means the plants will remain vigorous for many
years. When coming into flower some stalks
should be gathered and dried for winter use.

Basil ( Ocymum basilicum ) (fig. 1155). — An
annual, a foot high, native of India. The aro¬

matic leaves are used in soups, &c., and occa¬
sionally in salad; but their strong flavour is
disagreeable to some persons.

KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES.

403

The Bush Basil ( 0 . minimum) is smaller and
rather more hardy than the first. They are
both raised from seed, which should be sown in
gentle heat in March, and the young plants
thinned out to about 3 inches apart. Plenty of
air and frequent waterings should be given in
mild weather, transplanting them to the open
ground in May in a warm border. The larger
sort may be planted 6 or 8 inches from plant to
plant, in rows a foot apart, and the smaller one
5 or 6 inches apart, in rows 9 inches asunder.

Bean ( Vida Faba). — A hardy annual of ob¬
scure origin, but possibly Egyptian ; at any rate
it is known to have been cultivated by the
ancient Egyptians, and also in Europe in pre¬
historic times. It is now largely cultivated in
most civilized countries, and is popularly known
as the Broad Bean.

Soil. — The Bean has a long tapering root, ex¬
tending downwards in a perpendicular direction
to a considerable depth. Shallow soils are there¬
fore not well adapted for it. That which is
most suitable for the main crop is a deep, well-
drained, rather strong loam; but for the first
crops a light warm soil should be chosen. It has
been found by analysis that the Bean contains a
large amount of nitrogen; hence a soil rich in
decaying animal or vegetable matter is most
suitable for them.

Manures. — As Beans in garden culture are
gathered young, it is obvious that manure ought
to be given so as to be serviceable to the plants
at an early stage of their growth. Lime, marl,
gypsum, superphosphate of lime, bone-dust, wood-
ashes, and burned clay will each and all prove
highly beneficial to Beans on soils that have
long been under cultivation and manured with
organic manures. As lime and gypsum require
a considerable time for solution, they should be
applied in the autumn, and the other manures
in spring. Although farm-yard manure may
in general be the best manure for Beans, yet in
cases where the ground is already rich in organic
matter, its application will not be attended with
such good results as would follow the use of
lime, potash, magnesia, soda, &c. On the other
hand, when the soil is deficient in vegetable
matter, but abounds in mineral substances, the
application of such will not be so beneficial as
that of organic manures.

Seed Sowing. — Beans are generally sown in
drills, 2|- feet apart and 3 inches deep. The
seeds should be placed singly, 4 inches apart
in the drills, and then covered with soil, which
should be made firm. Many cultivators sow

the seeds in double drills, 6 inches apart, the
rows being not less than 3 feet apart; or the
seeds may be planted with a dibber.

When the plants are about 6 inches high they
should be earthed up. When they have formed
pods on the lower part of the stem, they should
be topped ; this checks the upward growth, and
causes the pods to swell. This operation is
likewise beneficial in relieving the plants from
the destructive ravages of the Aphis fabce, which
infests the top part more especially. The tops
when cut off should therefore be buried or
burned.

Instead of placing the seeds at equal distances
in a line, some plant them in patches a foot
apart, and three or four seeds in each patch.
In this way, by tying a strip of matting round
the plants forming each patch, the stems are not
so liable to be broken by the wind as they are
when standing in rows, unless supported by
twine stretched from end to end of the row.

To obtain an early supply, such sorts as Early
Longpod or Early Dwarf Prolific should be
selected, and sown on a warm border in front
of a south wall or close hedge. A small sowing
may be made in the end of October or beginning
of November, and another in December for
succession. If the winter is mild, the plants
will require little or no protection; but if likely
to be sevei-e, a covering of litter or leaves, or a
mixture of both, should be put between the
rows to keep the ground from freezing.

Beans transplant well, and their safety through
the winter may be ensured by sowing them in
November or December, in rows from 4 to 6
inches asunder, in light soil and in a warm
situation, where they can be easily protected by
means of frames, straw-screens, mats and hoops,
or similar contrivances. In protecting, care must
be taken that the plants do not suffer from want
of air and light. They will be fit for trans¬
planting into a warm border on a mild day in
February; or the plants could be raised singly
in small pots early in February, and placed in
gentle heat to germinate, hardening them off
before they become root-bound, and planting
them out on an early and favourable oppor¬
tunity. Most cultivators defer making their
first sowing until early February, and if pos¬
sible a warm border is selected. The seeds
should be planted in rows not more than 2 feet
asunder, and fully as deep in the soil as they
were before removal, afterwards drawing a little
earth to the stems, and topping, as previously
directed, for the main crop.

Windsor, Green Windsor, and Long Pod may

404

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

be sown in March for the principal crop, and
again in April and May for succession. For a
late crop, Long Pod and Dutch Long Pod should
be sown in June or the beginning of July.

To obtain a very late crop, after gathering the
summer produce of the Long Pod in a young
state, let the soil be well watered, if dry, and in
two or three days after the watering let the
stems be cut down to within a few inches of the
ground. Fresh shoots will soon push, and a
better very late crop will be produced than if
seeds had been sown late for the purpose. If a
late crop is a very special object, then the plants
intended to produce it should be cut down when
in flower.

Steeping the Beans in water before sowing
accelerates their germination, and plants from
steeped seeds maintain their superiority over
those from seeds not steeped, all other conditions
being the same.

Gathering. — Some prefer Beans when very
young, or when they have attained only one-
fourth of their natural size. They should
at all events be gathered before they appear
black-eyed, that is, black at the hilum, or point
of attachment to the pod. A portion, however,
should be allowed to get older, in case they
should be wanted for soups.

To save Seed. — The sorts of which seeds are
intended to be saved should be sown in the end
of February; and as the best seeds are those in
the first-formed pods, none of these should be
gathered for cooking green, although those pro¬
duced afterwards near the top may be taken with
advantage to those which are left below to ripen.
When the leaves become withered and blackish,
the stems should be pulled up, tied in small
bundles, and set upright, where they will dry
by exposure to the sun and air. The seeds will
keep good for two years, after which time they
are not to be depended on, though some will re¬
tain their germinating powers for five years or
more. Seeds that have been long successively
saved from plants grown in the same soil and
situation are liable to degenerate. It is there¬
fore advisable to obtain a supply occasionally
from a different soil and climate.

Insects , &c. — See chapter on this subject.

Fruit and Seed Enemies. — Bean Beetles, Mice.
Leaf Enemies. — Black Aphis, Pea and Bean
Weevils, Silver Y-moth. Root Enemies. — Mole
Cricket.

Beck's Dwarf Green Gem. — Stems 1 to foot high,
branched, compact in growth; pods small, abundant, clus¬
tered, 3 inches long, containing about three small fine
green Beans. A most prolific variety, later than Longpod,
very desirable for small gardens.

Green Longpod.— Stems 3 to 4 feet high; pods 4 to
5 inches long, mostly erect, generally containing about
four oblong Beans, which when fit for use are bright-
green. Much valued for their green colour when cooked.
A good bearer.

Hardy s Pedigree Windsor. — Stems 2 to 3 feet high,
robust; pods 5 to 6 inches long, containing about three
large flat Beans, produced abundantly and generally
curved downwards like the Longpods, between which
and the Broad Windsor it seems to be intermediate. An
excellent sort, very productive.

Longpod. — Stems 2 to 3 feet high, of free growth,
branching at the ground and producing from three to five
stems; pods 7 inches long, containing from three to five
medium-sized Beans of good quality. It is prolific and
early.

Seville Longpod. — Stems 2 feet high, sparingly branched;
pods often 7 to 9 inches, containing about six Beans of
excellent quality; the pods are rather sparingly produced.
One of the earliest.

Sutton’s Green Giant (fig. 1156). — A green-seeded coun¬
terpart of Longpod, and one of the most remarkable and

Fig. 1156.— Bean— Sutton's Green Giant.

popular Beans ever raised. Has long straight pods, and
Beans excellent in flavour.

Violet. — Stems robust ; pods 6 inches long, containing
from three to four fair-sized oblong Beans, of a pale-red
colour, dull-violet when ripe. An excellent Bean, coming
into use three days later than the Longpod, but the colour
of the skin is objectionable.

White Fan. — Stems 1 J foot high, robust, much branched ;
pods abundant, produced in erect clusters from the very
surface of the ground; 3 to 4 inches long, and containing.

INDEX.

583.

Fluids in plants— movement of, i, 44.

Fly-catchers — as garden friends, i, 117.

Foam-flower — descript, and cult., i, 375.

Fcgniculum VUlgare— descript., uses, and
cult., ii, 444.

Food Of plants— (see Nutrition).

Foot-level— (illust.), descript, and use of,
i, 183, 184.

Forcing—

Calendarial directions for fruit or vege¬
table (see Calendar of Operations in
the Fruit- and Kitchen-gardens.

Calendarial directions for management of
plant-houses, i, 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 18, 20.

Hardy shrubs— treatment and list of shrubs
suitable, i, 621-625.

Herbaceous plants and bulbs — directions
and kinds suitable, i, 625-627.

[For special fruit or vegetable see its name
— plants, see generic titles.]

Foreign names of culinary vege¬
tables — lists of, ii, 527-531.

Forficula auricularia — descript, and
treatment, i, 72.

Forget-me-nots — descript. and cult, of
perennial species, &c. (illust.), i, 366,
367, of Chatham Island forget-me-not,
i, 366, of marsh plants, i, 386, of annual
species, &c., i, 396.

Forks — (illust.), descript, and use of, i,
174.

Forsythia — pruning (illust.), i, 256, 257;
species, &c., descript, and cult., i, 302;
forcing F. suspensa, i, 622.

Fothergilla alnifolia— descript, of, i, 302.

Fountains — for garden decoration, i, 258,
268, 269.

Fragarla— species of and the origin of
strawberries, ii, 238.

Fraisier Ananas and the origin of straw¬
berries, ii, 238.

Frames — (see Pits and Frames).

Francoa — calendarial directions, i, 8 ;
species, &c., descript, and cult., i,
359-

Fraxinus — species, &c., descript, and cult.,

i, 302.

Freesia— calendarial directions, i, 6, 14, 17,
18; descript, and cult., i, 536, forcing
directions, i, 626.

Fregilus graculus— as garden friend, i,
11 7-

Fremontia californica — descript, of, i,

302.

French bean— (see Kidney bean).

French bean canker— (illust.), i, 129.
French names of culinary vege¬
tables — lists of, ii, 527-530.

Fringe-tree — descript, of, i, 295, forcing
directions, i, 622.

Fringilla coelebs — as garden friend, i, 117.

Fritillaria —species, &c., descript., cult.,
and illust. of, i, 359, for forcing, i, 626.

Frogs — as garden friends, i, 119.

Fruit-

Arrangement in dishes on dinner- tables,
&c., i, 654.

Calendarial directions (see Calendar of
Operations in the Fruit- and Kitchen-
gardens).

Conveyance by road or rail— railway rates,

ii, 79, 135; dried fruits, cost of carriage
as compared with fresh fruit, ii, 357.
(See also title Packing fruits.)

Culture for commercial purposes (see titles
Fruit plantations, Apples, &c., for Mar¬
ket, Pears for Market).

Culture in America, Germany, and France
in comparison with that of Great Bri¬
tain, ii, 344, 352, 353.

Culture under glass— conditions for forcing,
i, 57; ii, 312. (See also title Orchard-
house; for special fruit, see its name.)

Formation (illusts.) and descript, of various
classes of fruit, i, 56-58.

Improvement of — results of judicious cross¬
fertilization, hybridization, and sys¬
tematic treatment, i, 58, 59; ii, 47, 48,
99-102

Fruit (< cont .)—

Insect and other pests — (illust.), descript.
and treatment, i, 74-79.

Keeping fruit (see titles Fruit-room, Stor¬
ing fruit).

Meaning of term “fruit”, i, 56.

Packing and packing- house (see title
Packing fruits).

Pollination— interpollination of fruits, influ¬
ence of foreign pollen on formation of
fruit, ii, 49 ; pomaceous fruits, extract
from report on, &c., ii, 123, 124.

Preserving (see title Fruit-preserving).

Ripening process — explanation of, i, 56; ii,
380, 381.

Seeds — descript, (illusts.) and germination,
i> 32, 53> 56, 57-

Storing(see titles Fruit-room, Storing fruit).

Supplying a regular amount of fruit to an
establishment — area of ground, &c., re¬
quired, ii, 4, 5.

Surplus and waste fruit — utilization of (see
F ruit-preserving).

Fruit- and Kitchen-garden, formation
of—

Consideration of principal points in, ii, 1.

Drainage (see that title).

Form of the garden — descript., illusts., and
merits of various forms, ii, 7-9. (See
also sub-headings Plans, Walls.)

Fruit-tree borders — width, depth, slope,
&c., ii, 25, 26; concrete paving for
bottom of (illust.), ii, 26, 27; soil suit¬
able and materials for improvement,
ii, 27-29.

Level of the ground — determination of (see
title Levelling).

Orchards (see that title).

Plans (illusts.) — large garden, ii, 4, small
garden, ii, 5, garden at Welbeck, ii, 4;
site for garden in relation to mansion,
ii, 2; site for garden in flat or exposed
situation, and position of shelter trees,
ii, 11 ; site showing drainage scheme,
ii, 21; methods of dealing with slopes,
ii, 18.

Preparation of the ground — methods of
trenching, &c., ii, 29, 30.

Shelter — artificial means, effect and use of
walls and trees (illust.), ii, 10, 11.

Site— choice of, position in relation to house,
ii, 1, 2; sheltered site, ii, 9. (See also
sub-heading Plans.)

Size — space for various structures, area re¬
quired to supply given quantity of pro¬
duce, walled-in areas, &c., ii, 4, 5.

Soil suitable for— choice, depth, and im¬
provement of, ii, 2-4, 27-29.

Walks— construction, cost of cement walks,
&c., edgings suitable, ii, 30-32.

Walls — aspect consideration, action of
sun’s rays, ii, 5, 6, 8 ; merits and dia¬
grams of southern and other positions,
ii, 6-8; length of wall needed to enclose
given areas and expenses incurred, ii,
8, 9; shelter uses of, ii, 10, 11.

Fruit- and Kitchen-gardens— calendar
of operations (see Calendar of Opera¬
tions in the Fruit- and Kitchen-gar¬
dens).

Fruit juices — imitation fruit essences, use
of, ii, 102 ; commercial value of, and
use in production of non - alcoholic
drinks, ii, 358, 364.

Fruit plantations for commercial
purposes—

Uses of hardy fruits — consideration of ways
available for marketing fruits, modes
of preserving, &c., ii, 358.

[See also titles Apples, &c., for Market,
Pears for Market.]

Fruit-preserving—

Advantages of an extension of knowledge
in methods of fruit-preservation, ii, 344.

Development of trade— British and foreign
industries compared, trade in U. S.A.,
suggestions for extension of home
trade, &c., ii, 344, 345, 352.

Hardy, stone, and small fruits— special
uses, vars., and modes for preserving,
358-364-

Fruit-preserving ( cont .) —

Methods and appliances — summary and
classification of principal methods, ii,
345, 346, miscellaneous methods, ii,
358, 364. (For particular method, see
titles Jam-making, Canning, Bottling,
&c. ; for special fruit, see its name.)

Packing and storing preserved fruit, ii,.
348, 356.

Fruit-protectors— (illust.), use of, i, 125.
Fruit-room—

Atmosphere, ventilation, and moisture —
regulation directions, descript, of Law-
ton process of sterilizing the air, i, 210;

384, 385-

Construction— (illusts.), general forms and
directions,!. 212; Bunyard’s fruit-room,
i, 213, 214; fruit-room at Foxbury, ii,
77-79 ; details as to divisions, trays,,
light, &c., ii, 69, 70, 212, 214, 382,.
383, 385-

Floor and path materials, ii, 385.

Keeping the fruit (see title Storing).

Rats, mice, and thieves — protection against,.
h 214; ii, 383.

Temperature regulations, i, 210; ii, 384,.
in cold storage, ii, 388.

Wine-cellar used as fruit-room — descript,
of, i, 212, 213.

Fruit-trees—

Calendarial directions (see Calendar of
Operations in the Fruit- and Kitchen-
Gardens).

Culture of fruit (see titles Fruit, Orchard-
house; special fruit, see its name).

Formation of fruit-garden (see title Fruit-
and Kitchen-Garden).

Fruitfulness— modes of promoting, i, 247,.
257, 258; cause and treatment of steril¬
ity, i, 257; ii, 39, 49, 68, 123, 124.

Hybridization — rearing trees from seed,
isolation system, i, 63.

Orchard plantation and management (see
Orchards).

Pruning and training — root-pruning and
ringing, i, 257, 258. (Special tree, see
name of fruit.)

Retarding process applied to trees in pots
or otherwise, i, 628.

Spraying fruit-trees (see that title).

Treatment of trees on arrival after convey¬
ance by rail, &c., ii, 58.

Fuchsia — calendarial directions, i, 4, 8, 10,
11, 12, 14, 17; species, &c., descript,
and cult., i, 302; popular forms —
(illusts.), descript, origin, and cult., i,
442-444, list of best vars., i, 444; exhibi¬
tion plants and fuchsias in greenhouse,
treatment of, i, 443, 444 ; insect pests,
i, 443 ; summer-bedding forms— cult,
and illust., i, 632, 634.

Fumigators — (illust.), descript, and use of,

i, 189.

Fungi, Plant Diseases caused by—

Anbury or finger- and - toe (see Anbury
disease).

Anemone disease (illust.), i, 127.

Apple-tree canker (illust.), i, 125.

Cherry-leaf disease in Kent and elsewhere,

ii, 210.

“ Damping off” of seedlings, i, 128.

French bean canker (illust.), i, 129.

Fungicides, descript, and application of, i,
129-131; ii, 43, 44.

General observations on, i, 123.

Gymnosporangium — formation on juniper
branch, &c. (illust.), i, 127.

Increase of fungoid pests during warm wet
weather, i, 65.

Kind of food required by fungi, i, 123.

Literature on, i, 13 1.

Mildew (see that title).

Mould or sclerotinia (illust.), i, 126, 127.

Paeony drooping disease (illust.), i, 130.

Peach leaf curl, i, 129.

Pear-leaf fungus (illust.), i, 127.

Potato disease (see that title).

Preventing a repetition of a disease, i, 125-
129.

584

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

Fungi, Plant Diseases caused by ( cont .) —

Preventing the spread of a disease, i, 125.

Spraying fruit-trees (see that title).

Strawberry-leaf fungus (illust.), i, 130.

Structure and reproduction of fungi, i, 123,
different modes of reproduction, i, 124.

Tomatoes — fungus diseases attacking, ii,
340, 341.

Trees and shrubs damaged by storm —
development of disease, i, 252, 253, 254.

[For diseases on special plants, see generic
titles of plants. ]

Fungicides — descript, and application of,
i, 1 29-131; ii, 43, 44.

Funkia— species, &c., descript, and cult.,
i, 359; forcing forms and directions, i,
626.

Furcroea— species, &c., descript, and cult.,
i, 618, 619.

Furnaces for heating glass-houses, &c. —
(illusts.), descript, and management,
i, 217.

Furze — descript, of shrub, i, 324.
Fusarium Lycopersici — treatment of in
tomatoes, ii, 341.

G

Gaillardia — calendarial directions, i, 5 ;
hardy species, i, 359; popular garden
sorts — (illust.), descript., origin, cult.,
and list of best vars., i, 444; summer¬
bedding directions, i, 635.

Galanthus — species, &c., descript., cult.,
and illust. of, i, 359 ; forms for spring¬
bedding, i, 630.

Galega— species, &c., descript, and cult., i,
360.

Galtonia candicans— descript, and cult.,
i, 360, for summer-bedding, i, 635.

Garden chafer— descript, and treatment,
i, 85, 105.

Garden enemies— insects, &c. (see title
Insect and other Plant Enemies).

Garden friends — insects, &c. as, descript,
and illusts., i, 1 14-122.

Garden line and reel— descript, and use
of, i, 18 1.

Garden pebble moth— descript, and treat¬
ment, i, 85.

Garden refuse— as manure, i, 156.

Garden snail — descript, and treatment, i,
93-

Garden spider — as garden friend, descript,
of, i, 122.

Garden Structures, Construction and
uses of—

Frames, i, 204, wall-frames, i, 210.

Fruit-room (see that title).

Glass-houses (see that title).

Heating methods (see Heating).

Ice-house (illust.), i, 215, 216.

Painting and repairing, i, 210.

Pits (illust.), i, 204, 205.

Pleasure-ground summer-houses, arbours,
temples, &c., i, 276, 277; rose-temple,
b 275.

Vineries (see that title).

Walls — colour, construction (illust.), &c.,
i, 196-199. (See also title Fruit- and
Kitchen-garden. )

Water-garden — boat-house, Chinese pa¬
goda, &c., i, 281.

Gardeners— demand for practical men in
commercial fruit plantations, &c., ii.
73 ; employment and availability of
labour in certain districts, ii, 74, 75.

Gardenia— calendarial directions, i, 4, 7, 9,
15; root disease, illust. and remedies,

i, 105; descript., cult., and illust. of
plants, i, 550.

Garland flower— descript, and cult., i, 361.

Garlic — descript., uses, illust., and cult, of,

ii, 444, 445 ; foreign names of, ii, 527;
calendarial directions, ii, 535, 541, 548,
55°> 554, 556.

Garlic snail— descript, and treatment, i, 93.

Garrya elliptica— (illust.), descript, of, i,

302.

Gas — heating structures by means of, illust.
and descript, of gas-stove, i, 222.

Gas Waste— as a manure, i, 164.

Gasteria — species, &c., descript, and cult.,
i, 619.

Gaultheria — species of, descript, and cult.,
i, 302, 303; G. procumbens for winter¬
bedding, i, 647.

Gazania splendens— for summer-bedding,
b 635.

Geans — (see Cherry).

Genealogical arrangements of plants

— explanation of systems used, i, 66.

Genista— species, &c., descript, and cult.,
b 303-

Gentiana— species, &c., descript., cult., and
illust. of, i, 360.

“Genus5’ — botanical meaning of term, i, 66.

Geometrical flower - garden — (illust. ),

formation of, i, 263, 264.

Geonoma — calendarial directions, i, 2 ; de¬
script. and cult, of, i, 610.

Geophilus longicornis — descript, and
remedies, i, 106.

Geranium — calendarial directions, i, 11 ;
hardy species, descript, and cult., i,
360; popular garden forms (see Pelar¬
gonium).

Gerbera Jamesoni— descript, and cult.,
i, 360.

German names of culinary vege¬
tables— lists of, ii, 527-530.

Germination of seeds— i, 32, 57.

Gesnera — calendarial directions, i, 7, 10, 12,
15, 18; species, &c., descript, and cult.,
b 550*

Geum — species, &c., descript. and cult., i, 360.

Ghent azaleas— see Azalea).

Ghent mould — composition of, i, 15 1, 152.

Gherkins for pickling— cult, of, ii, 329.

Ghost swift moth— (illust.), descript, and
remedies, i, 105, 106.

Giant bellflower— (illust.), descript, and
cult., i, 368.

Gilia — species, & c., descript, and cult., i, 391.

Gillenia— descript, and cult, of G. trifoliata,
b 300.

Ginkgo biloba— descript, of, i, 330.

Gladiolus— calendarial directions, i, 3, 6, 8,
11,14, 17> 1-9'’ herbaceous border plants,
i, 360; popular races and strains — de¬
script., origin, illusts., and general and
pot-culture, i, 445, 446, list of vars., i,
446; forcing forms and directions, i, 626;
summer-bedding directions, i, 635.

Glass-houses, &c., Construction and
Uses of—

Bell-glasses and hand-glasses (illust.), i, 195,
196.

Curvilinear roofs (illust.), i, 203, 204.

Fundamental principles of construction, i,
^99-

Greenhouses and Conservatories (see that
title).

Heating methods (see Heating).

Himalayan house at Kew — (illust.), de¬
script. of, i, 210.

Hot-houses (illust.), i, 209, 210.

Lean-to roof house (illust.), i, 201.

Orchard house, ii, 273, 274.

Pits and Frames (see that title).

Ranges of glass-houses — descript, and illust.
of structures and ground plan, i, 210,
21 1.

Ridge-and-furrow roofs, i, 202.

Roof construction — angles of elevation,
table showing angles necessary by
various dimensions, &c., i, 1 99-201;
angles of incidence and the reflection
of rays of light and sun upon glass, i,
200, 201.

Span -roofed and unequal span -roofed
houses (illust.), i, 201-203.

[For special fruit-houses, see title Vineries;
also names of fruits — sub-headings
Culture under glass, &c.]

Glazing fruit— (see title Crystallizing and
Glazing).

GleditSChia— descript, of G. triacanthos, i,
303-

Gleichenia— species, &c., descript., cult.,
and illust. of, i, 593.

Globe flower — descript, and cult, of, i, 376,
387-

Gloeosporium lindemuthianum— illust.

and descript., i, 129.

Gloriosa— species, &c., descript, and cult.,
b 551-

Glory Of the snow— descript., cult., and
illust., i, 353, 354.

Glory pea — descript, and cult., i, 533.

GlOW-WOrm — as a garden friend, i, 115.

Gloxinia — calendarial directions, i, 4, 7, 10,
12, 15, 18; popular garden types —
(illust.), descript., origin, and cult., i,
446.

Glycyrrhiza glabra — (illust.), descript.,

uses, and cult., ii, 461.

Gnomonia erythrostoma— descript, and
treatment of leaf disease, ii, 210.

Goat moth — (illust.), descript, and remedies,

i, 1 13, 1 14.

Goat’s Rue— descript, and cult., i, 360.

Godetia— species, &c., descript, and cult.,
b 391-

Gold ferns — descript, and cult, of, i, 594.

Golden drop — (illust.), descript, and cult,
of, i, 367.

Golden feather— for spring-bedding, i, 630.

Golden osier — descript, of shrub, i, 320.

Goniophlebium— (see Polypodium).

GoniopteriS-(see Polypodium).

Good King Henry — descript., uses, cook¬
ing, and cult, of vegetable, ii, 445.

Goodia lotifolia— as a greenhouse plant,
b 536.

Gooseberries—

Calendarial directions, ii, 533, 550, 554, 556,
558.

Fruiting shoot of spineless gooseberry
(illust.), ii, 223.

Insect pests, & c. — list of, ii, 226.

List of vars. — descript., illusts., and selec¬
tions for special purposes, ii, 226-229.

Market-garden purposes— demand for, ii,
75-

Origin and history— merits of the fruit for
cultivation, ii, 222.

Packing — methods of, ii, 378; boxes for,

ii, 368.

Planting — orchard plans (illusts.), ii, 32, 37;
general instructions, ii, 222.

Preserving — vars. and modes suitable, ii,
364 ; processes of jam-making, ii, 346,
jelly-making, ii, 349, bottling, ii, 351.

Propagation — by seeds, cuttings, layers,
and suckers, ii, 225, 226.

Pruning and training — bushes in open
quarters, ii, 222, Lancashire growers’
method, ii, 223, root-pruning and thin¬
ning the fruit, ii, 223, 224, pot-grown
trees (illust.), ii, 224, espalier-trained
and use of fan-mode, ii, 224, arched
trellises, ii, 224, cordon system (illust.),
ii, 225.

Soil and situation, ii, 222; manure, &c., ii,
224, 225.

Storing method, ii, 387.

Gooseberry sawfly— (illust.), descript, and

treatment, i, 85, 86.

Gordonia pubescens— (illust.), descript,
of, i, 303.

Gorse — descript, of shrub, i, 324.

Gossypium — species, &c., descript, and
cult., i, 551.

Gourds. Squashes, or Pumpkins—

(illusts.), descript., uses, cult , and list
of sorts, ii, 445, 446, 447; foreign names
of, ii, 527; calendarial directions, ii,
543, 544-

Grafting, Propagation by-

Art of grafting — age and history, i, 236 ;
explanation of operation (illust.), i, 47,
236-238.

INDEX.

593

Orchid-houses ( cont .) —

Construction of houses, &c. — use of old
plant-houses, i, 558, 560; plans (illust.)
of intermediate and cool house, i, 558,
559; stages and floors, i, 559; heating,
water-supply, and tank arrangements,
ii, 559, 560 ; shading arrangements
(illust.), i, 561.

Humidity of atmosphere, regulation of
moisture, &c. , i, 562, 564.

Single orchid-house — management of, i,
557, 569-

Temperatures — regulation directions, table
of temperatures, &c., i, 557, 562, 564.

Ventilation arrangements and regulation, i,
559, 564-

Orchids—

Arrangement of plants in houses, i, 566.

Basket orchids— treatment of, i, 566, 568.

Calendarial directions (see Orchid-houses).

Classification of, i, 565 ; meaning of terms
“terrestrial” and “epiphytal” orchids,
i, 563-

Collecting orchids — selection of fresh im¬
ported orchids, i, 561; time for collect¬
ing and manner of packing, &c., i, 569.

Cut flowers — treatment of in packing, &c.,
i, 568 ; arrangement for floral decor¬
ation, i, 649, 650.

Disease and insect pests— scale insects, i,
92, general treatment of insects, i, 568,
“spot” disease treatment, i, 569.

Foliage plants suitable for growing in same
house as, i, 569.

Fresh imported orchids — selection and
treatment, i, 561, 562.

General remarks on culture— native habitats
of various species, &c., i, 557, 558.

Growing season treatment, i, 565.

Hardy and cold - framed orchids and
satyriums— treatment of, i, 564; species
suitable for near water, descript, and
illust., i, 386, 387.

Houses for— construction, &c. (see Orchid-
houses).

Humidity of atmosphere, i, 562, 564.

Hybridization and crossing — mode of pro¬
cedure, i, 61, removal of pollen-masses
(illust.), i, 62; examples of wild hybrids
found among tropical plants, i, 61 ;
illust. and treatment of artificially-raised
hybrids, i, 567.

Lists of showiest species, hybrids, &c.— de¬
script., cult., and illusts., i, 570-582.

Manure for — use of peat, &c., i, 155, 568.

Potting — pots and protectors (illust.) for,
i, 191, 192; potting materials, and time
and methods of potting, i, 562-564.

Propagation methods, i, 226, 227, 556; hy¬
brids, i, 557.

Pruning methods, i, 567.

Resting orchids — damage by high tempera¬
ture, i, 557, process of resting, &c., i,
566, 568.

Temperature — damage by excessive tem¬
perature, i, 557 ; native habitats of
species, i, 557, 558; table of tempera¬
tures and regulation directions, i, 562,
564-

Ventilation regulations, i, 564.

Watering and syringing, i, 560, 561, 565,
566.

[For particular orchids, see titles Cattleya,
Dendrobium, &c.]

Orchis— species, &c., descript, and cult., i,
367-

Order or Family — botanical meaning of
term, i, 66.

Oreopanax — species of, descript, and cult.,
\ 539-

Organic matter in various soils — table
showing amount of, i, 150.

Orgyia antiqua — (illust.), descript, and
treatment, i, 97.

Origanum — descript., uses, and cult, of
species, ii, 462.

Ornamental Water in Pleasure-
grounds—

Fountains in flower-gardens — use of, i, 269.

Ornamental Water in Pleasure-grounds
(1 co?it .) —

General directions for construction of arti¬
ficial lakes and uses of brooks, &c.,
i, 282-284.

Illust. of water-garden, i, 281.

Structural decorations, construction of boat¬
house, Chinese pagoda, &c., i, 281.

Trees and shrubs suitable for planting on
banks of, i, 281, 282, 283, 378.

Walks in vicinity of— drainage of, i, 282.

OrnithOgalum— species, &c., descript, and
cult., i, 367, 368.

Orontium aquaticum— descript, of, i, 386.

Osage orange-tree— descript, of, i, 308.

OsmanthUS — calendarial directions, i, 19;
descript, of O. Aquifolium and vars.,
i, 310, of O. ilicifolius for winter
bedding, i, 647.

Osmuilda— marsh species, &c., descript, of
O. regalis, i, 386; hardy species, &c.,
descript, and cult., i, 607.

Ostrowskia magnifica — (illust.), de¬
script. and cult., i, 368.

Ostrya vulgaris, 0. virginica— descript,
of, i, 310.

Otiorhynchus picipes— (illust.), descript,
and treatment, i, 80, 83.

Otiorhynchus sulcatus — (illust.), de¬
script. and treatment, i, 80.
Otiorhynchus tenebricosus — descript,
and treatment, i, 89, 96.

Otus Vulgaris — as garden friend, i, 118.

Ovary — formation of, i, 30, 48, 49, 52, fer¬
tilization of, i, 53, 60, fruit formation
and process of ripening (illust.), i, 56.

Ovule— formation of (illust.), \ , 30, 48, 49,
50, 52, 54; fertilization (illusts.), i, 52,
53, 54, 57j 60 ; after fertilization

(illust.), i, 60.

Owls — as garden friends, i, 117.

OxaliS— descript, and cult, of hardy peren¬
nial species, &c. (illust.), i, 368, of
greenhouse plants, i, 539 ; O. crenata
(illust.) and O. Acetosella as vege¬
tables, ii, 476, 524 ; foreign names of
Oca, ii, 528.

Oxera pulchella— as a stove plant, i, 553.

Oxlip — hybridization of, example (illust.),
i, 61.

Oxycoccus palustris, 0. macrocarpus

— descript., illusts., and cult., i, 310; ii,
271, 272.

Oxydendron arboreum— descript, of, i,
310-

Oxygen — nutrition of plants, i, 43, 44.

Oxylobium — species, &c., descript, and
cult., i, 539.

OxytropiS — species, &c., descript, and cult.,
i, 368.

Osothamnus rosmarinifolius— (illust. ),
descript, of, i, 31 1.

P

Pachyphy turn— (see Cotyledon).

Packing flowers — bouquets, &c., i, 650,
boxes for flowers, ii, 369.

Packing Fruits for Road or Rail-

Apples and pears (see those titles, sub¬
heading Grading and packing).

Bags — fruit packed in, disadvantages of,
ii> 374-

Barrels — use of in America and the
colonies, rules as to size and methods
of packing, ii, 373, 374.

Baskets for — (illusts.), use and merits of
round, flat, and handle baskets, ii,
37L 372.

Boxes for — development of industry of
box-making, ii, 368; fruits suitable for
boxes, ii, 368, 369; disadvantage of
large boxes, ii, 369; shallow boxes,
use of and method of securing together
(illust.), ii, 369; sizes and prices of
various forms, ii, 369, of railway com¬
panies’ boxes, ii, 370, of boxes used in
colonies, &c. (illusts.), ii, 370, 371.

Packing Fruits for Road or Rail [cont.) —

Cases or crates — forms used in New Zealand,

& c. (illust.), ii, 370, 371; use of cases
for small packages, ii, 372; crate with
fruit in handle-basket (illust.), ii, 372,
373, crates for punnets of strawberries,
&c. (illust.), ii, 373.

Choice fruits — essentials in packing, ii,
375 ; methods of packinggrapes (illust. ),
ii, 375, 3 76, 380, peaches, nectarines,
and apricots, ii, 187, 376, 377, figs and
pine-apples, ii, 377.

Exportation on shipboard — special systems
for, ii, 365.

Materials for packing— use and price of
wood-wool, cotton-wadding, dry moss,
straw, paper, &c., ii, 374, 375.

Miscellaneous fruits — methods of packing
melons and cucumbers, ii, 380; toma¬
toes, ii, 369, 372, 380.

Packages for — questions of cost, strength,
appearance, and size, ii, 368 ; labels
suitable, ii, 368. (See also sub-headings
Boxes, Baskets, Cases, &c.)

Packers — employment of skilled and ordi¬
nary labour, duties of packers, &c., ii,
73> 74, 75, 367-

Packing-houses, -rooms, or -sheds — con¬
struction of (illusts. of plans), and
tables suitable for, &c., ii, 365-367.

Preserved fruit— jam, ii, 348, dried fruit, ii,
356.

Railway rates for fruit conveyance and
care of packages, &c., ii, 79, 365, 370.

Small fruits — grading at time of packing,
ii, 377 ; methods of packing straw¬
berries, raspberries, and gooseberries,
ii, 377, 378; crates for strawberries
(illust.), ii, 373.

Stone fruits — plums, ii, 377, 378, damsons
and cherries, ii, 378.

Value of proper packing and importance
of grading, ii, 364, 365, 378.

Weighing the fruit — arrangements and
machines for, ii, 367.

Packing-houses, -rooms, or -sheds—

construction (illusts.) and tables for,
ii, 365-36 7-

Packing Vegetables — artichoke, aspar¬
agus, ii, 561 ; beans, beet, borecole,
broccoli, ii, 562 ; Brussels sprouts,
cabbages, cardoon, carrots, cauli¬
flowers, celeriac, celery, ii, 563 ; chic¬
ory, cucumbers, endive, herbs, kale,
kohlrabi, leeks, ii, 564; lettuces, maize,
mushrooms, mustard and cress, ii, 565;
onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, ii, 566;
radishes, rhubarb, salsify, Savoy cab¬
bages, scorzonera, sea -kale, spinach,
tomatoes, ii, 567 ; turnips, vegetable
marrow, water-cress, ii, 568 ; hampers
of vegetables, ii, 569.

Pseony— tree paeonies( P. Moutan)— descript. ,
cult., illust., and list of vars., i, 311,
480, forcing directions, i, 621, 623 ;
herbaceous paeonies — species, &c., de¬
script., cult., illust., and list of vars.,
i, 368, 480, 481.

Pseony drooping disease— (illust.), de¬
script. of, i, 130.

Pale brindled beauty moth— descript,
and treatment, i, 87.

Paliurus aculeatus— descript, of, i, 311.
Palms—

Calendarial directions, i, 2, 4, 9, 10, 13, 18.

Chusan palm or Trachycarpus excelsus —
(see title Chusan Palm).

Cycads (see that title).

Decorative palms for conservatories, halls,
&c. — descript, and treatment, i, 527,

608.

Descript, and history of various species,
&c., i, 608.

General culture — soil and manure, i, 141,

609, propagation, i, 608, potting or
planting out in beds, temperature, &c.,
i, 609.

Illusts. of palm-house and great palm stove
at Kew, i, 608.

Insect pests— descript, and treatment of
scale insects, &c., i, 92, 609.

594

THE GARDENER’S ASSISTANT.

Palms ( cont .) —

List of species suitable for conservatory —
descript., cult., and illusts., i, 609-613.

Subtropical garden — palms and position of
plants suitable for, i, 641, 642.

Vascular bundles in — arrangement of, i, 37.

Pampas grasses— descript, and illust., i,
385, 386.

Panax — species, &c., descript, and cult., i,

553-

Pandanus — calendarial directions, i, 2, 6, 7,
12; descript, and cult., i, 553.

PaniCUm — calendarial directions, i, 2, 6;
descript, of plants, i, 553.

Pansy— (see Viola).

Papaver— descript, and cult, of perennial
species, &c., i, 368, of annual plants,
b 397-

Paper— use and prices of plain, tissue, and
ornamental paper for packing fruit,
Sic., ii, 374, 375, 384.

Parasites— descript, of, i, 29, of parasitic
fungi, i, 223.

Paris green — as an insecticide, ii, 43.

Parks — trees and shrubs suitable for, i, 327,
339> 340.

Parnassia— species, &c., descript. 3 cult.,
and illust. of, i, 369, 386.

Parrot flower— descript, and cult., i. 297,
533-

Parrotia Jacquemontiana, P. persica

— descript, of, i, 31 1.

Parsley — drying process, ii, 356; fool’s-
parsley (illust.), descript, of, ii, 477;
true and Hamburg parsley (illusts.),
descript, and cult., ii, 477,478; foreign
names of, ii, 528; calendarial directions,
ii, 532, 535, 538, 54L 543, 548, 552, 558.

Parsley fern— descript, and cult., i, 605.

Parsnip fork— (illust.), use of, ii, 478.

Parsnips — crops parsnips may follow and
be succeeded by, ii, 390; seed quan¬
tities, ii, 391; descript., uses, cult.,
insects, &c., and list (illust.) of vars.,
ii, 478, 479; foreign names of, ii, 528;
calendarial directions, ii, 538, 541, 543,
546 ; packing, ii, 566.

Partridge — as garden friend, i, 118.

Parus cseruleus, P. major, P. ater, P.
palustris, P. caudatns— as garden
friends, i, 118.

Passiflora, — calendarial directions, i, 11, 15;
fertilization of, i, 55; descript, and cult,
of hardy species, &c., i, 31 1, of green¬
house plants, i, 539, of stove plants
(illust.), i, 553, 554.

Passion-flowers— (see Passiflora).

Pastinaca sativa — descript., uses, and
cult., ii, 478.

Pasture land — amounts of nitrogen and
organic matter in, i, 150.

Patersonia— species, &c. , descript.and cult. ,
i> 539-

Paulownia imperialis — descript, and
cult., i, 31 1.

Pavetta borbonica— descript, and cult., i,

554-

Pea (flowers) — hardy perennial species, &c. ,
descript., cult. , and illusts. , i, 363 ; hardy
annuals — calendarial directions, i, 3, 5,
7, 12, descript., illust., and cult, of, i,
393, for summer-bedding, i, 635.

Pea (vegetables) —

Calendarial directions, ii, 532, 536, 538, 541,
543* 546, 548, 55o, 552, 558; for forcing,
n, 534, 537, 539-

Crops peas may follow and be succeeded
by, ii, 390.

Cross-fertilization — experiments and direc¬
tions, ii, 479, 480.

First early peas — cult, of main crop in open
quarters and of peas for market, ii, 481,
482 ; earliest crops — modes of cult, in
open border, sowing in pots, boxes, &c.,
and French method, ii, 482-484; pro¬
tection from frost, ii, 484.

Foreign names of, ii, 528.

Garden pea (illusts.) and field pea— de¬
script., distinction between, origin of
name Pisum , and history of cult. , ii,479-

Pea (vegetables) (< co?it .) —

Insects, &c. — list of, ii, 485.

Lists (illusts.) of vars. for early, main, and
late crops, ii, 485-487 ; a selection of
leading vars. for gardens and market,
ii, 487.

Main crop and late peas — cultural direc¬
tions and sorts suitable, ii, 484, 485.

Packing, ii, 566.

Planting — distances for rows, &c., ii, 481;
filling up blank spaces, ii, 484.

Preserving — drying process, ii, 356.

Protection from mice, birds, &c., ii, 483, 484.

Saving seeds — directions, ii, 485.

Seed quantities required for cropping, ii,
391, 482.

Soil, manure, and artificial manures, ii, 480,
481.

Pea UlOth — descript, and treatment, i, 77.

Pea Weevils— (illust.), descript, and treat¬
ment, i, 87, 88.

Peach and Nectarine—

Calendarial directions — outdoor, ii, 533,
536, 542, 544, 546, 548, 550, 552, 554,
556, 558 ; for forcing, 11, 535, 537, 539,
542, 545, 549, 55 h 553, 554, 557, 559-

Culture in open-air — wall trees, & c. —

Fruit production, &c. — growth of flower
and leaf-buds lillust.), ii, 169-171, 173;
methods of thinning, gathering, ripen¬
ing, and storing the fruit, ii, 176, 177,
179-

General treatment, condition of roots, re¬
storation of sickly trees, &c., ii, 177.

Illusts. — various vars., ii, 167, 169, T70,
176; peach-tree on wall, shoots nailed
and unnailed to expose fruit, ii, 178.
(See also sub-heading Pruning and
training.)

Planting trees — time and methods, ii, 169.

Pruning and training — shoots, growth of
flower and leaf buds (illust.), ii, 169-
171, 173; bearing shoots and successors
(illust.), ii, 173, 174, 176; summer and
winter pruning, ii, 171, 173, 176; time
and method (illust.) of training, ii,
171-173; stopping and disbudding pro¬
cesses (illusts.), ii, 174, 175.

Soil and situation — wall aspect, ii, 6, 7 ;
position and soil suitable, preparation
of borders, &c., ii, 27, 167-169.

Culture under glass —

Adaptability of fruit for and conditions
necessary to, ii, 180.

Choice of trees and methods of planting,
training, pruning, syringing, &c., ii,
180, 182, 183, 184, 185.

Construction (illusts.) and management
of house, border preparation, i, 207;
ii, 180-182; fire-heat, air, temperature,
ii, 183 ; cleaning the house, ii, 184 ;
orchard-house, ii, 274.

Gathering and ripening the fruit, ii, 184,
185, 277.

Orchard-house — construction of, ii, 274;
potting plants, ii, 275, 276 ; ripening
fruit, ii, 277 ; illust. of plant, ii, 277 ;
list of vars. suitable, ii, 278.

Peach-case and nectarine tree at Frog-
more (illust.), ii, 181.

Resting period — treatment during, ii, 185.

Soil and manure suitable, and improve¬
ment of soil, ii, 180, 185, water-supply,
ii, 185.

Trellis in peach-house (illust.), ii, 167.

[See also sub-heading Pot culture.]

Diseases and insect pests — use of syringe
and washes, &c., ii, 177, 183, 184, 185,
j86 ; cause and treatment of various
diseases, i, 129, ii, 179, 189; list of
insects, &c., ii, 189.

Garden races — origin of, area and history
of cultivation, &c., ii, 166.

Hardy ornamental trees — descript. of, i, 31 1.

Lists of vars. (illust.), explanation of ar¬
rangement and classification of fruit,
ii, 189, 192: peach and nectarine vars.
and fruit for special purposes, ii, 190-
194; orchard-house vars., ii, 278.

Peach and Nectarine [cont). —

Manure, effect of— results ot experiments,

i, 171.

Packing-^methods and materials for, ii,
187, 374, 376, 377; boxes and baskets,

ii, 368, 371, 372.

Pot culture — forms and vars. of trees suit¬
able, ii, 185, 194, illusts. of trees, ii,
185, 186, 187 ; _ training, disbudding,
stopping, repotting, ii, 185, 186; flower¬
ing period treatment, manure, winter¬
ing the plants, ii, 186 ; water supply,
use of perforated pots (illust.), ii, 187.

Preserving — extent of trade in U.S.A., &c.,
ii, 344; drying process, ii, 355, 356;
canning process, ii, 357 ; modes and
vars. suitable, ii, 362.

Propagation — method of raising plants
from stones, use of various stocks,
mode of grafting, &c., ii, 188, 189.

Peach aphis— descript.and treatment, i, 88.
Peach -leaf curl disease — development

and treatment, i, 129.

Peach scale— descript, and treatment, i, 69.
Pear -leaf blister moth — (illust.), de-
script. and treatment, i, 88.
Pear-leaf mite — (illust.), descript, and
treatment, i, 88, 89.

Pear oyster scale — (illust.), descript, and
treatment, i, 69.

Pear sawfly — (illust.), descript, and treat¬
ment, i, 94.

Pear-SUCker — (illust.), descript, and treat¬
ment, i, 69, 70.

Pears and Pear-trees—

Calendarial directions, ii, 533, 539, 542,
546, 548, 550, 552, 554> 556.

Commercial plantations (see title Pears for
Market).

Disease and insect pests — leaf fungus
• illust.), i, 127; scab disease, ii, 44;
canker, ii, 128; list of insects, & c., ii,
129; orchard-house treatment, ii, 278.

Fertility and sterility — causes and reme¬
dies for imperfect fertilization, ii, 123,
1 24-

Flavour of pears — characteristics of various
vars., attention to quality of flavour,
&c., ii, 102.

Forms of trees — various uses of stocks
(illusts.), ii, 106-108; standards, bush,
pyramid (illusts.), and espaliers, ii, 108,
109; Palmette Verrier (illust.), ii, no,
cordons (illust.), ii, 1 10-112; planting
directions, ii, 112. (See also sub¬
heading Pruning and training.)

Gathering and ripening pears, ii, 126, 132,
*34, 277.

General culture — essentials for, ii, 103 ;
districts and situation, wall aspect, &c.,
ii, 6, 8, 104; routine work directions,
ii, 124-126, winter routine, ii, 127.

Grading and packing — French and Cali¬
fornian systems, ii, 131, 132; import¬
ance of grading and methods (illust.)
of packing, ii, 132, 134, 379; boxes for,
ii, 135, 368-371, baskets, crates, and
barrels for, ii, 372, 373; materials for
packing, ii, 374.

History, origin, and evolution of the pear,
ii, 97-99; French industry, ii, 98.

Illusts. — trees in royal gardens, Windsor,
ii, 68; wild pear, ii, 96; various vars.,
ii, 97-101 ; arcade of pears, ii, 103;
stocks, various forms of trees, ii, 106-
108. (See also sub-headings Forms,
Lists, Pruning.)

Improvement of pears — systematic methods,
results, &c., ii, 99-102.

Lists — explanation of arrangement, ii, 135;
descript, and illusts. of select vars., ii,
136-147; synonyms reference list, ii,
147, 148; selections for special pur¬
poses and situations, ii, 148-150.

Merits of the pear for cultivation, ii, 96.

Orchard - house culture — construction of
house, ii, ^ 274 ; planting, &c., ii, 275,
276; ripening fruit, ii, 277; insect pests,
ii, 278; list of pears suitable, ii, 278;
illusts. of trees, ii, 275, 276.

Orchard plantations — plans (illusts.), ii*
34-37: influence of grass land, ii, 38.

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VOL. i

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ASSISTANT.

VOL. ii