UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3021 7 E#i jjVo :■;,. ■■., -.■,;,■■ vfMnM'f''""'" •■■ i/iWf!ifhVi;V''i'.' . 1' 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 ■ ; j , 1 . ,1 ' ; I " i . , i ■ ' , i ■ ' I ; i ., i f ■ ■ ■■ J -^' ''1 1 B.iK'i'Oiv;' I I LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE no.._(q sga.-.. DATE._4-j &3.5 SOURCE..H Ajlck—f'-and-,, 1.15 pEA.CAgij^ ll,l,U3TT^ftT£;D WZ;£;KI,Y JOUI^KAIh HORTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES, FOUNDED BY W. I^ohinson, F.L.S., Jiuthor of " Jilpim Flowers," etc. "lou see, sweet maid, vre marry A gentle ecion to the wildest stock And make conceive a bark of baser kind By bud of nobler race : This is an art Which does mend nature change it rather- The art itself is na.\,m-e."—SAaies/mn: VOL. XV. -MIDSUMMER, 1879. LONDON: OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STKEET, COVENT GARDEN, W. C. JEAN JULES LINDEN, 0/ BriKSfJn, Hortirulturid and Traveller, THIS FIFTEENTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" IS DEDICATED IN KECOGMITION OF HIS LABOURS IN THE INTRODUCTION OF EXOTIC PLANTS TO THE GARDENS OF EUROPE. l97q If. R. r. IS" JuN-E 2>, 1870. THE GARDEN. INDEX TO A^OLTJME XT Abie5 Albertiani, 176; Diii^Iasi. 113, ITH ; nigra, 176 ; nobilis, 176 ; Pinsapa, 177 Abiitilous at Chiswick, 312 : culture ol, 377 ; in market i^'ardens, 1'20 Aciuii dealbata. 326 ; rubruni, 324 Achillea aurea, 272 Achimenes in baskets, 135 Auoaites, winter, under Beech trees, 19 i Acorns, differences amongst, 46 Actinidia kolomikta, 513 Adiantum palmatum, 401 ; WilUamsi, 4i3 .^chmea Marire Rsginre, 170 Aerides Suhr'jederi, 493 Agapanthus umliellatus candidin. 433 A/eratuni, CaTinell's dwarf, Idj, 493 ; Lady Jane, 313 Agrotis segetum, 25 Allium Erdeli, 3J1 ; kuratavieiise. 412 Alocasias, 110 Alpines, 97 ; at York, 427 ; at Rydo, 334 ; on walls, 416 Alpiuia nutans, 442 Alsnphila pigina>a, 30 Alatroimsrias. culture of, 342 Ainirantus, cordatus, 162 A'liirylUs, Dr. Masters, 70; Duke of Connauijrht, 307 : Hercules, 3 1»; ; Lidy Luuisa Egerton, 444 ; Mr.=. Baker, 206 ; Mrs. Morgan, 406; Virgil, 22.) Amaryllises, seedling, 57; prizes for, 210 American hardy plants, 2j2 Amygdalus nana. ;>S7 Anlromeda calyculata, 109 ; florjbunda, •26d Anemone fukens an-l its varieties, 436 ; stellata, 289 ; sylvestris, 420 Anemones from seed, 193 Angrzecum sesquipedale, 23 ; s. super- bum, 171 Annuals, bedding, 305; tender, and slugs, 493 Anthurium Scherzerianum at flielsea, 339 ; S. Palmeri, 474 Antirrhinums, 140 ; from scoil, 427 Antrim, effects of the winter in, 392 Ants and paraffin, 224 Aphelandra aurantiaca Roezli, 210 Aphis Ros;v, 3S0 Aponogeton distachyon, 23. 339 Apple, the, 315 Apple blossom, the, 441 ; culture in S:jot- land, 335 Apples, Dieu Donn6, 265; early Jnlien, 23S ; King of the Pippins, 35, 52. 79 ; Oslin. 233; Crab, 233 ; f..r market in North Yorkshire, 403 ; Irish market, 350 ; pruning, 335 ; two early, 2J8 ; varieties of, 316 Apricots, pruning, training, and pr jtect- ing, 215 ; treatment of, 311 A luatics iu basins 293 Aquilsgia glandulosa, 273; chrysautha, 512 A'juilegias, seedling, 503 Aralia californica, 295 ; Sieboldj, hai\li- nes9 of, 223 AriUas, 270 Araucaria imbricata. 71, 168 ; fertilisa- tion of the, 507 ; Niepreschki, 509 Arbutuses, cutting down, 225 Arctostaphylas, species of, 104 Arnebia echioides, 406, 469 Art of the future, Morris on. 293 Arum Lily, double-spathed, 228 Arum Lilies in market gardens, 76 Ash, a curious, 9 Asparagus, an error as to, 467 ; fine English, 454; for market, 4>9; wholly blanched. 523 ; keeping frjsh, 520 ; green, 520 A paragus culture. 321 ; ditto, econo- niicai, 463 ; cutting. 353 ; planting, 344, 424 ; ditto while young, 3^2 Asparagus decnmbens. 109. 212. 210 ; gracilliraus, 425 ; varieties of, 170 ; plumosa, 496 Asperula Oilorata, 460, 493 Asphalte, substitute for, 24, CD Asjihodelus ramosui, 96 A-pidistra lurida variegata, 132 Aspidistras, 6 Aspleninrn horridum, 425 Aster growing for market. 4i, 140, 156 Astrulagus adsurgens. 475 I Ataccia pinnatitiila, 266, 273 I Atiiyrium scandicinuni, 17 Aubrietias, seedling, 273 Aucnba berries, 239, 323. 3>7, 361 Aucubas, 199 ; at Christniai, 23 ; cross- ing, 232 Auricula Society. National. 316 Auriculas, potting, 429. 462 ; time for repotting. 469 ; liew, 346 ; while mould in. 423. 462 Avenue Limes, 2:5.3 Azalea balsamitlnra, 34G ; Duke of Con n;iught, 266; Empress of India, 229, 330; Indian, hardiness of the, 460; Madeline, 444; Marvel, 316; mollis Bai-on Constant Reb8c llamboos, 271 Bambusa heterocycla, 75 Baptisias. 17 Bark, constricted. 470 ; and timber traie, the, 432 ; stripping, 323 Barkeria Skinneri. 32 Baskets, rustic, 176 Beans, Broad, for market, 411 ; French, 45 Bearberries, the, 104 B^ech, Stevens' purple v/oeping, 61 Beeches and underwood, 3, 23, 00 73, 106, 194 Be?s and ilignonette, 493 B,-etle, FaHid Rove, 322 ; poison, 357 B.-;etle3. Willow. 466 Begonia Abel Carri^re. 433; althetcflora. 443 ; Clovis, 4S4 ; Comtesse de Choi- seul, 406 ; glaucifolia for baskets. 144 ; hydrocotylifolia, 130 ; h. manicata. 54 ; Ingrami. 326 : J, H. Laing. 434 ; Marie Bjuchet, 434 ; Maude Churchill. 414 ; Mrs. Arthur Potts, 434 ; multiilora, 334 ; Rex, 6 ; Souvenir de Gan,l, 431 ; Royal Standard. 522 Be^rmias in market gardens, 141 ; select. 352 ; tuberous-rooted, 333, 377, 425 ; hardiness of ditto, 131 Bertolonia Killichi, 509 : Rodeeki, 509 Certolonias, propagation of, 212, 221 Retonv. 23 Bird-feeding boxes, 47 Bird scarers, 165 Birds and insects, 87; protecting bush fruits from. 52 Blandfordia flava, 509 Bocconia cordata. 23 Bjg plants, descriptive list of harrjy, 291 ) Boilers for small homes. 69 I Bomarei obligantha, 101 j Bongtu'dia Ranwol , 326 \ B.)r.i:;o orientalis, 4 I Boronias, culture of, SO I Botanical tiia-,'rann. 365 ! B.tt)ni he.it, 127. 130, 176 B;j:u'ainville.i spectabilis, 519 Bougainvill^as, 319 Bou'-iuet. a liutterpot, 492 Bouvardias, a group of, 493 Briers, hedge, right to remove, 70 Briei-s, se'dling. 433 Broccoli cri>p. the, 392 Broccoli, early and late, 332 ; hardiness of, 213, 276 ; ornamental-leaved, 333 ; Veit:h's Self-protjctin^, 151 Broom seed, sowin-j;. los i Brosinuim galactodendron, 70 Broussouetia papyrifera Billiardi, 53 Brownea grandiceps, 2c7 ; macrophylla, 436 Bruchus pisi, 65 Brussels Sprouts, 314 Bugs, May, 502 Butb beds, carpeting, 55. 96 Bulhijphyllum Be-jcari, 519 BaJhous plants, market, 57 Bull)3, si)rini;-tlowering. 117, 411 Buphthalmmn cordifolium, 2 Butchers" Broom, 363, 363 C. Cabbage tribe, hardiness of, 151 ('alcalia artiiulata, 7 Cacti, briglit-rtuwering, 453 ; in flower at Hammersmith. 451 Caladium L'Albane, 125 Calauthes in small pots, 136 Calceolaria amplexicaulis, 273 ; Crystal Palace. 444 Calceolarias, all the, 258 ; herbaceous. 405. 424 ; at Langport, 454 ; in market gardens, 140 Callus in market gardens. 76 Calochortus lilacinus, 339 ; elegans var. Tolmiei, 497 C iltha palustris fl.-pl., 3-39 t'.ilycanthuses, the, 234, 361 CiiHillias, hardiness of, 333, 387, 414, 4 U ; houses for. 231 ; large, 365 ; Mrs. H.vey, 266 ; C. 31. Hovey, 266 ; reti- culata, 289 ; sports of, 232, 327 ; Ameri- cm, 139 ; at Fiilham, 210 ; at Kingston, 256 ; different modes of growing, 413 ; in boxes, 436 ; in Isle of Wight, 374 ; in Kent, 389 ; in orchard houses, 405 ; in the open air, 141, 161, 177, 193, 405, 433 ; in Vineries, 93 ; in market garden, 43 ; propagating, 327 ; shading for, 432; soil for, 232; thinning buds of, 232 ; under verandahs, 327 ; weeping, 516 Ca^npanula Allioui, 474 Cimpiinulas, annual, 356 Cauauga odorata, 239 Gannas on the Continent, 36 ; pennanent bails of, 56, 34 Capsicums, yellow-fruited, 199 Carica Papaya, 352 Carludovica Drudei, 509 | Carnations and Cyclamens, 23 ; grubs attacking. 466; white Clove, 57 Carrdinea elegans, 474 ^'arpetinc; plants, 135 '.irria;- drives, planting, 172, 253 I "i^^.iniliM calyculata, 321 r i-i.-iope I'a^tigiata. 454 iJastauea chrysophylla, 3, 27 Cistor-oil plants, 271 Cat ikidozamia Hopei, 346 ; Miiueliam. 425 Caterpillars, goat-moth, 226 Cattleyas, Alexanlne, 339; flowers of, without sheaths, 423, 446; ilacMorj landi, 454, 481; Reineckiana, 442; Skinneri all»a,'383, 425 ; cuituri of, 320 Cauliflowers, early, 520 Cecropia peltata, 371 Cedars, 71, 143; of Lebanon, 163; ditto, weeping, 516 Celosias, culture of, 256 Centaurea ragusina from cuttings, 277 ; from seed, 250 Cerasus Rhexi. 471 Cereus C. .AL Hovey. 500 Cercidopliyllum japoaicum, 103 Cespedcsia Bonplandi. 50*9 Ccutorbynchus sulcicolli,>. 145 Cliamairops excelsa, liardiness of, 2S9 (.Charcoal, burning, 24 Cheimatobia brumaria, 169 Cherries, market garden, 351 Cheny. weeping May Duke, 6L Chestnut, golden-leaved, 8, 27 Children's Gardens, 329, 370, 400, 476 Chiouodoxa Forbesi, 326 Chionodoxa Lucilis, 265, 307, 463 Choisva ternata, 235 ; m the greenhouse, 109 Christmas Rose, green. 117 ; .the giant, 23 Chrysanthemum frutescens, 497 Chrysanthemums, 391; culture of. 310; iu market gardens, 156 ; late blooming, 53 Chrysopa perla, 137 Chysis Chelsoni, 4-31 Churchyards, flowers in, 369 Cinerarias at Redlees, 375 ; in market gardens, 119 Cmerarla maritima compacta, propaga- tion of, 277 Clematis coccinea, 272 Clematises, 522 ; at Chelsea, 375 ; early blooming, 294 ; on low walls, 84 ; on Y'ews, 291 Clethras, the. 72 Clianthus carneus, 235 Clianthuses, culture of, 123 cumbers, conservatory, 112, 312. 331 ; on trees, 291 ; outdoor, 379 ; ?tove, 67 Climonanthus grandiflorus, 126 Clisiocampa neustria. 129 Clytus speciosus, 466 Ctclogyne cristata, 220 ; ocellata maxima, 307 Coffee, Siberian, 249 Coffee shrub, .332 Coleus Butterfly, 426 ; Distinction. 340 ; Einpre.iS of Gex'many, 425 ; Harlequin, 426 ; Starlight, 426 ; Surprise, 316 ; Eva, 522 Combretuni purpureum, 521 Conifers, Pacific coast, 387 ; and the frost, 333 ; Californian and Japanese. 25 ; pruning, 177 ; useful, 143 ; wood of, 195 Conservatory climbers, 112, 312. 331 Conservatory plants, a few good, 95 ; winter, 139 Cunvidvulus Cneorum. 235 Ciokery, our national, tiH Cordyline indivisa, 130 Cork trees, seedling, 237 Cornus canadensis, 451 Cornus Mas aurea elegantissima, 9, 223 Coronilla libanotica, 295 Cossus ligniperda. 297, 336 Coutaria Scherffiana, 145 Cow tree, analysis of milk of, 70 Cranberries, cultivation of, 116 Cranberry fanns, American, 459 Crassula lactea, 7 Creosote paint, danger of using, 190 Crocus speciosus, 16 Crocuses after flowering, 218: at Kow, 227, 216; at Tooting, 247; noteson, 1 !J ; select ear;y-llo»veriug, 171; wintcr- floworing, 31 Yi THE GARDEN. [June 28, 1879. Crops, spring, and slugs, 3D2 ('rof|uet grounds, 348 Croton Kurtoiii, 425 ; Dormaniannm, 425; Evmnianuin, 42.% 444; Henry- aiium, 443 ; Prince of Wales, 100 ; Princess of Wales. 40C, 500; rosto- pictuin, 171. 509 ; Williamsi, 109, 443 Crotons iur market, 199 ; fur tal)lc decora- tion, 21S Crown Irnperiuls, 343, 369, 390, 409 Crystal Paltce Show, 443 Cucunilier di-e;ise, 412, 44(; Ciicumlier, Web)>'s Perpetual Bearer, 226 Cucumliers, culture of, 211; soil for, 248 ; winter, 226 Cupania elegantissima, 40 j, 42r>, 443; (ili- cifolia, 12 Cupressus macrocariia, "1 Curculigo recurvata for market, 199 Cyeas intenneiUa, 12 ; pluma, 425 ; si- nensis, 423 Cyclamen, comn vt-nunii, 210; Crimson King, 229 ; per-icuni pi-.tulatun'l, 229 ; Queen of the Belgians, 266 ; Reading Gem, 70 Cyclamens after flowering, 164, 176, 221 ; and Carnations. 23 ; at HoUoway, 109; in market gardens. 43 ; plunged out-of- door'!, 345 ; treatment of, of : spotted. 162. 175; seedling, 130 Go d moth. the. 22o, 240. 302 Goldfussia isophylla, SO Gooseberry caterpillar, 488 Gorse seed, sowing, 198 Gracillaria syringella, 443 Grafting Daphnes, 250; fruit trees, 315 ; remarks on, 46 Grape Golden Champion, 274, 331 Gi-apes. culture of, at Bristol, 350, 321; in market gardens, 213, 262, 325, 335 ; at Oxenford. 229 ; from Vines raised from eyes the same year, 349, 420, 440, 450 ; late, 35 : thinning, 420 Grass seeds, lawn. 343 Greenhouse, an amateur's, 138, 163, 211 Greenhouses, heating small, 176, 211 GrevlUea robusta, 199 Griftinia Blunienavia, 388 Gynerium jubatum, 178 Gypsophila cerastoides, 474 H. Haberlea rhodopensis, 375, 430, 454. 463 Halinnithu-i pratcusis, liardiness of, 287 IiratL-n>is fulgens, 497 Halnothannms elegans, 32 Hienriiithu-; allio-miculatus, 109 Ilairltells. animal, 350 Hairs, plant, forms and uses of, 61 Hamimelis aiborea, 101 ; Zuccariniana, 126 Haricot, green, 247 Heaths, Cape, 99, 102; culture of, 243; soft-wooded, culture of, 480 ; ditto, planted out, 84 Heating and ventilating, 73 ; in cold weather, 30, 55 Heating, boilers for, 69 ; bottom, Mr. Baines on, 95 ; hot water, 494 ; mate- rials for, 200 ; oil stoves for, 217 ; small houses, 7, 31, 176. 211 Hebeclinium ianthinum, 55 Hedges and screens, 362 Hedges, cutting, 27 ; cutting down Ar- butus, 225 ; Holly, 226 ; Rose, 277 ; town square, 230 Hedychiums, 96 Hedysarum humile, 424 ; ilackenzi, 520 Helianthus orgyalis, 116 Heliotropes in market gardens, 119 ; in winter, 04 Hellebores in pots, 163, 391 ; trial of, 23 Helleborus guttatus. 247 ; maximus, 23; niger, 100 ; orientalis, 260 ; viridis, 117 ; Hepaticas in masses, 289 ; seedling, 237 Hesperochiron pumilus, 455 Hibbertia Reedi, 455 Hoes, spade, 204 Hollie.^, root-eaten, 283 ; variegated, 7t Holly berries, scarcity of, 9 ; substitute for, 48 Holly hedges, 226. 362 Hollyhocks, seedling, 118 Hotbeds and their uses, 121 Hoteia japonica for edging beds, 512 Houses, glass-fronted, 77 ; intermediate, 29; heating small, 31; lean-to and span-roofed, 101 Hovea Celsi. culture of, 124 Hoya bella, 311, 334 ; carnosa, 311 Humphreys, H. Noel, the late, 508, 521 Hyacinth, Duke of Connaught, 277 ' Duchess of Connaught. 206 ; Salmon King, 266; King of the Reds, 266; Leviathan, 266 ; the Sultan, 206 ; with many flower-spikes, 266 Hyacinths, cultivation of. in Holland^ 368 ; Roman, 11 ; select, 267 Ilybernia defolaria, 169 Hyde Pai-k, wild gardening in, 289 Hydrangea, climbing, 237. 301 ; Thomas. Hogg, 58; paniculata grandiflora, 28> Hydrangeas, blue, 103 ; hardiness of, 23, 58, 126; in market gardens, 118 Hypo^ymua dispar, 382 Iberis gibraltarica, 403 ; semperflorens. indoors, 171 Ice houses, 192 ; circular, 59 ; econo- mical, 60 Ice storhig, 91. 101. 227, 239, 261, 230, 322 Idesia polycarpa crispa, 471 llang-IIang, 239 Imantophyllum concinnum, 484 Insects, destroying, 13 ; on fruit trees, 401 ; Rose, 421, 401 International Horticultural Exhibition for 1S30, 408 lochroma longiflora, 475 Ipsea .s]ieciosa. 229 Iresine brilliantissima. 22S Iris alatii, hardiness of, 2i ; f(etidissinia, 120; Kxmpferi, seedlings of, 247; longipetala, 407 ; reticulita, 206 ; Tel- fordi, 496 ; teuax, 454 Irises, 49(> Ivy in Fern cases, 91 Jasminum hirsutum. 06 Jungenuannias, culture of, 217 Justicia speciosa, 3D Kauri Pine. 169 Kale, variegated, 344 Kalosanthes. culture of, 87 ; in market gardens, 120 Kennedya coccinea, 96 Kentia MacArthuri, 346 ; Wendlandiana, 346 Kew Gardens, debate ou the opening of, 230 Kew, notes from, 31, 58, 86, 108, 130. 144, 171,189, 209, 227, 246, 265, 280, 200, 317, 329, 330, 354, 375 Kitchen gardens, cropping, 128 ; site for,. 18 L. Label ties, metal. 345 Labels, garden, 91, 102, 122,145, 194, 344, 488 ; glass, 245 Laburnum sports. 522 Lace-winged fly, 187 Lachenalia orchioidea, 170; pallida pur purea, 57; pendula. 131 ; ditto, in bas- kets. 257 ; quadricolor. 100, 289 Ltelia elegans alba, 454 Landscape gardening, SL Andre on, 447 Lripageria alba, 57 Lapagerias and slugs, 69 ; layering, 220 Laurels in Kensington Gardens, 508 ; on chalk, 243 Laurustinus, forced, 141, 220 ; glossy leaved. 190, 253 Lavender in market g.irden?, 155 Lau'— Hole V. Bradbury, 506 Lawns. 379 ; formation of, 15 ; improve- ment of. 348; renovating, 186, 223; spring treatment of, 125 Leaf-mould, fungi in, 239 Leaves, skeleton, 45 ; forms of, 515 ; dis- eased. 522 Lettuces, forcing, 192; preventing seed- ing in, 206, 311 ; winter, 205 Library— " Chemistry of Common Life." 354 Hovey"s " Fruits of America." 355 " Gardening Illustrated," 247 Linden's "illustration Uorticole," 145 "Potatoes. How to Grow and Show Them." 244 Van Houtte's " Flore des Serres," 255 Vilmorin's "Album of FurageGrasse:,'* 145 JuxE 28, 1879.] THE GAEDEN. Vll Lilac, white, 223 Lilacs. 470 ; early forced, 7S, 13!?, 140. 144 Liiiuni auratum from seed, 26b ; Bate- iiiannijc, 396, 430, 462 ; Hansoiii iu pots. 454 ; lancifoliuui nibrum, 497 ; neilgherrense, hardiness of, 289 ; Pai'k- nianni, 45(i : i>urpuremn, 509 Lilies in market -aidens, 120; in mud halls, 194 ; piuija^^atiun and u'rowth of, 82, S3; stem roots of, 35, 83,^135, 157; in pots for •4reenhouse decoration, 520 Lily discussion, 118 ; culture, deep pots for, 521 Lily of the Valley, 11, 421; failure of, 312 Limes, avenue, 2SS Linum tri^ynum. 234 Lohi^lias from cuttings, 4G2 ; in market gardens, 140 Logs, old, a sood use for, 302 Longleat, a little sketch at, 493 Lonicera fragrantissiraa, 352 ; Slandislii, 324, 352 Luculia gratissinia, 92 Lyco])odium species, 509 M. JIacadamised roads, 88, 278 Ma:?nolia conspicua, 387 ; liardiest ever- green, 105 Manchester Royal Botanical Society, 455 Maple, red, 324 Maples, Japanese, of the palmatum type, 514 Market accommodation, 91 Market, fruit-growing for, 269, 325 Market gardening, 213 ilarket gardens, 154 ; busU friut in, 383 ; Ilower forcing in, 11, 43 ; fruit culture iu, 335, 341, 350 ; green crops in, 353 ; plant culture in, 50, 75, 99, 140, 180, 109 ; vegetable cultxu'e in, 307 ; ditto, and fruit. 310 Marnock. Mr., retirement of, 3S8 JIaniock portrait, 365 JIasdevallia Backhousiana, 455 ; Bella, 307 ; polysticta, 23 ; tovarensjs, 32, 455; Veitchi, 210 ; new, 442 ; Shuttle- worth i, 375 Mealie, 522 Meconopsis simplicifolia, the true, 454 ; Wallichi, 522 Melon-Cucumber, 45 Melon culture, 317 Melon seeds, old v. new, 238 Melons, best t-arly, 48, 92 ; best two, 69 Mentha pulegium gihraltaricum, 272 Mesospinidium sanguineuni, 375 Mice, baits for Held. 24. 48 ilichelia Champaca, 239 Mignonette and bees, 498 ; in market gaidens, US Mimuli. seedling, 462 Mimulus cardinalis, 116 Mint, early, 436 Mistletoe on the Oak. 02 Mitraria coccinea, 123 Monstera deliciosa, fruit of, 220, 288 ; in water, 78 Moore, Dr., the late, 508 Mosaiculture, 491 Mosses, cultui'e of native, 217 ' Moth, small ermine, 85 ; the browii- tailed, 2-15 ; the Gipsy, 382 ; the goat, 249, 297, 366 ; the lackey, 129 ; winter and Lime-looper, 169 Mudd, JIi-., deatli of, 306 Muscaii armeniacum, 475 ; lingulatum, 251 ; new, 365 ; pallens, 375 ; pai-a- doxum. 389, i42 ; various, 329 Musk, 140 Myosotis dissitillora, 318, 342, 369, 348 ; from seed, 294 ; wintering, 245 ; Weir- leigh Surprise, 512 Myosotis iu market gardens, 119 MjTsiphyllum asparagoides, 48, 93 N. Narcissi, double, 385; for London mar- kets. 11 ; Spanish, notes on, 511 Narcissus Bulbocodium, 282, 493 ; Em- peror, 388 ; Empress, 388 ; pumilus, 388, 430, 468 Nasturtium otflcinale, 436 Nature, lesson from, 251 Nepenthes Viellardi, 509 Nephrolepis Duffi, 503 ; plunia, 425 : new, 23 Nertcra depressa, 522 Nettles, 4, 122 ; how to de-troy, 21, 48 ; M. Naudin on, 59 ; substitute for, 84 Newcastle Horticultural Society, 327 New Zealand Hax, 430 Niphubulus Uettiactis, 29 Noiiks, sheltereest structures fur. 101 ; for market, 270, 325 ; imported, 145 ; soil for, 131 ; variegated, 32; weights of, 79 Pine growing, rapid, 403, 420, 450 Pine houses, 146 ; best forms of, 52 Pine, Siberian Stune, 361 Pink, Highdere, 135 ; Lady Blanche. 235 Pinks for forcing, 174 Pinus insignis, 282, 368 ; rate of growth of. 364 ; Laricio, 106, 125, 143 Plant, a good talde. 86 Plant and fruit culture combined, 127 Plant culture for market, 118, 110, 180 Plant disease, new, 402 Plant frame, Rippingille's, 194 Plant liairs, their forms and uses, 61 Planting, waterside, 431 Plants. Alpine, facts, about, 408 ; ditto, in Vorkshire. 491 ; ditto, on walls, 416; propagatinii bedding, 452 ; bog, 409 ; bottom-heat for, 1.39 ; carnivorous. 322 ; carpeting, 4». .55. 96. 135; conservatory, a few good, 95 ; dinner-table, green base for, 288 ; early blooming, at Chester, 287; etfect of the winter on, 134,415; flne-foliaged. 67; ditto, eon- servatory, 5 ; for a small greeidiouse. 128 ; for binding sand, 249 ; for inter- mediate houses, 20 ; for lai-ge beds, 216; fur odd corners. 305; for winter gardens. 53 ; gi-eenhnuse, for succes- sion, 165; hardiness of, 104 ; hardy, at Bvtleet. 407 ; ditto, at Colchester, 424 ; ditto, at Kew, 416 ; ditto, at Tottenham. 210; ditto, at Weybridge, 497; ditto bog, 291 ; ditto border, sowing, 356 ; in flower at Christmas, 23 ; notes on hardy, 475 ; hardy outdoor, 389 ; her- baceous, autumn-flowering, 423 ; in fruit houses, 234 ; in the Riviera, frost- bitten, 122 ; Japanese method of pack- ing, 104 ; Messrs. Rxdiisson's sale of, 87 ; new American, 84 ; liardy North American, 252; ornamental wild, 35; potting hard-wooded, 207; preparing for transplanting, 241 ; rabbit-pruof, 416,452; rambling, how to confine. 2; rock, at Oaktiebi. .iTl ; ditto, in York- shire, 491; situations for spring-llower- ing, 304, 347, 348 ; sub-tropical, 08, 270 ; summer bedding, hardening off. 42S ; window, 137 ; winter conservatory, 139; winter-flowering, planted out, 174; ditto wall, 84; wintering, in glass- fronted buildings, 77 : watering bed- ding, 512 ; scent-yielding, 521 Platyceriuro gi-ande, 246 Platyceriums, various. 279 Pleione Hookeriana. 455 Plums for market, 200. 237. 2.^.0 Podophyllum, abnomial, 217 Pojnsettias at Ware. 57 ; cool treatment of, 132 ; dwarf, 23 ; in market gardens, 75 ; large, 164 Polemonium confertum, 375 Polyanthus, blue, 365 ; Prince of Orange, 406 ; superbus, 485 Polyanthuses, border, 193 ;Hose-in-Hose, 3S0; select, 346 ; shaded, self, 317 Polygalas at Ryde, 364 Polygonatum roseum. 455 Polygonum virginianum, 237 Pomegranates on walls, 86 Pontederia, new, 424 Pcjplai', Canadian, 60 ; new ditto, 24 Poppies, gigantic, 407, 512 Populus alba Bolleana. 201 Porthesia auriflua, 245 Posoqueria longiflura, 424 Potato, Climax^ 151. 160; Compton's Sur- prise, 382; Dalmahoy, 247 ; MagnuNi Bonum. 205, 226, 248 ; Regent, 247, 20ti, 310 Potato sets sprouting, 225 Potatoes and the frost, 205, 226 ; Dal- mahoy and Regents, 225. 253, 276; dormant, 100 ; early planted, 205, 382 ; earthing up, 310 ; for small gardens, 160; how to grow and show. 244; Kidney, 226, 244 ; new, 412 ; ditto, without leaf-gi'owth, 150 ; storing, 151 ; worth growing, 192, 248 ; early, 529 Pot Vines, wintering, 238 ; propagating, 140 Potting, remarks on, 147 Primrose bloom and sparrows, 392, 430 iiimrose, Chinese, fertilising the, 405; doulde sulphur, 376 ; Siebold's, hybrids of, 407 Primrose seed, 193 ; gennination of, 161 Primroses, 328 ; as window idants, 251 ; double, 374 ; double, summer treat- ment of, 343 ; hardy, 289. 343 ; ditto, under glass, 127 ; in Covent Garden, 57 ; in Wales, 309 ; Japanese, 371 ; Japanese, out-of-doors, 2 ; acaulis Golden Gem, 406; ama-na. 311, 488; Blushing Beauty, 131 ; Cashmeriana, 171 ; cortusoides, 430 ; cortusoides amccna in water. 476 ; c. a, alba, 4.30 ; denticulata, 272 : Eva Fish. 228 ; grandis, 349 ; mollis, 424 ; platypetala fl.-pl., 346; rosea. 246. 265, 266; Ruby Kiug, 70: Sieboldi, 2; sikkimensis, 485 ; sinensis coccinea, 7 ; ditto flm- briata, 31 ; Alpine, 365 ; evening, in the wihl garden, 512 Primulas, Chinese, at Forest Hill, 98 ; at Chiswick, 86; damping ofi',104; double, ■ 86, 90 ; Gilbert's ditto, 100 ; hardiness of. .56 ; hai-dy, 273 ; ditto, at Chester, 2s7 ; at Kew, 286 ; Japan, 300 Privet hedges. 362 rrotecting- material, 52 Piutcction, fruit tree, 215, 280 Pruning, winter, 449 Prunus Padus, 433; sinensis fl-pl., 130 Ptcris cretica hybrida gigantea, 425 ; serrnlata magnifica, .500 Pulmouaria dahurica, 375 Pyrethrum Golden Feather, 294 Q QuamncUt hederffifolia, 295 tjuercus Buergeri, 433 IJuict nook, a, 157 Quisqualis indica, 79 R. Raljbit fences, 198 Rabbit proof plants, 452 Rabbit iiroof trees, 508 Rabbits, plants uninjured by, 416; pro- tecting trees from, 168 Radishes, early, 76 Ranunculus Lyalli, 391, 406, 425 Red spider, how to destroy, 275 Regent's PiU'k, the, 521 Reviews — Caledonia, 4 ; Paul's Rose Annual, 41 Retinnsporas, 177 Kbodanthes iu market gardens, 119 Rhododendron exhibition, AVaterer's, 510 Rhododendron Arboreum at South Ken- sington, 228; Aucklandi, 287; cinna- bai'inum and Blandfordia;florum, 182 ; Duchess of Teck, 425 ; Fakoneri, 210; Hardyanum, 508; Hodgsoni, 210; lepidotum, 36; new hardy, 442; myrti- folium, 210 ; Nuttalli, 331 Rhododendrons. 507 ; at Caimsmore, 469 ; gieenhouse, 340, 375 ; new hybrid, 496 ; new sweet-scented. 430 ; remark- able, 433; Sikkim, 189; at Regent's Park 522 Rheum' officinale and palmatum, 09, 112 Rhubari>, forcing, 17; preserved, 490 Rhynchospermuni jasminoides hardy in Devon, 334 Ribes sanguineum, 364 Riviera, effect of frost in the, 59 Road scraper, improved, 308 Roads, park, 16; macadamised, 278 Rogieria gratissima, 70 Rock plants at Oakfield, 374 VIU THE GARDEN. [June 28, 1879. Romiilea IMiuowaiii, ;12 Roots 111 wAtr.v pipoa, 502 Uos I pulyaiiUia, 401 Ro3L* Bon Sik-ne, 222 ; Celeste, 405 ; Charles Darwia, 81 ; American liaimer, 82; Jean Liabnud, 203; Letty Cnles, lU; Mar6chal Niel, 301; 3\[. K, Y. Teas, 2U8 ; Madame Alexaiuler Bev- naise, 2UU ; Niphetoa, 222; Souvenir (le la Malmaison, 10, 222 Rose aphis tr;ii)s, 3Sl Rose borders, 421 Rose ffarilens, situations for, 103 Rose hedges, 277 Rose house, a useful, 82; at Gunncrs- bxiry, 22«, 288 Rose insects. 380, 40j, 42t. 461 Rose medals. 375 Rose petnls, 405 Rose shows, dates of, 429, 45G Rose stock, new, 461 Rose trees, pruning, lOG ; culture of, 107 Roses and Oishurst, 249 ; ami lead wire. 2GS ; at Caiiues, 440, 401, 48:i ; Christ- mas, lOU ; culture of, 400 ; effects of frost on, 345, 301 ; French and En*j;lish, 359 ; French market, 221 ; forced, 240 ; indoor, 270 ; in inside and outside borders, 277 ; neglected, 300 ; new, 41 ; notes on. 10. 487 ; outdoor, 277 ; pot, 3S1 ; treatment of ditto, 89 ; pro- tectinjc and forcing, 203 ; pruning, 42, 115; select, 172; shield budding and grafting, 40 ; soils and stocks for, 49, 114; treatment of grafted. 3'Jl ; Tea- scented, 80. 113, 153, 173 ; wliite, 49 Royal Botanic Society, 260, 340, 425, 509, 522 Royal Horticultural Society, 70, 152,307 345, 40(5, 452-55, 4S4, 522 Rubus deliciosus, 454 ; rosrcflorus, 152 Ruscus aculeatus, 308 Ruscus, species of, 363 Rust, protection from, 116 Russia, gai'denmg in, 178 S. Ralices, Californian, 230 Salix cccrulea. 80 Salsify seeds, 405 Salvias at Frogmore, 32 Salvia splendens, 98, 229 Sambucus racemosa, 20 Sarcochilus Fitzgerahli, 346, 453 Sarmienta repens, 415 Sarraceuia atro-sanguinea, 425 ; flava- picta, 509 ; i>urpurea, 17u ; Williamsi, 443 Sarracenias at Chelsea, 415 Savoy, Drumhead, 77 Saxifraga aretinides primulina, 375 ; Bur- seriaua, 210 ; llagellai'is, 3b8. 405 ; re- tusa, 289; sarnientosa, 372 ; s-iuarro^a, 475 ; Stracheyi, 205 ; Wallacei, 442, 475, 485 Saxifrages, Alpine, 329; early-dowering, 251; large-leaved, 135, 247 Schizanthusiiaiiilionaccus, 234 Schizostylis cuccinea, 377 ; planted out and ui pots, 7 Schiznphragnmhydrangeoide=, 237. 301 Schomliur_;kiii tibicinfs at Kew, 330 Scilla nutan-, 403 ; sibirica, 273; (Camas- sia) Fraseri, 521 Scill-is, latetiowering, 474 Seottisli Hurticultui-al Association, 70, 132 Seakale, forcing, 17, 520 Seed Association, Scottish, 263 Seedlings, raising, 123 Seed sowing, notes on, 204 ; for binding sand, 249; germination of, 193; slug- gish, 320 ; quantities of for kitchen garden, 150 Selaginella Krau3?iana, 29i, 406 ; Wal- lichi. 228 Selaginellas, hardiness of, 250 ; in market gardens, 181 ; their uses and culture, 503 Ssmpervivums, 511 Senecio concolor, 388 Sericographia Ghieahreghtiana, 79, 234 Shortiagalicifolia, 270 Shrubs at Batiersea, 424 ; effects of the winter on, 27, 42, 255 : Howeringin parks '.MI ; for market, 109; for small gar- dens, 236 ; for wet ground, 337 ; hardi- ness of at Coombe Wood, 460 ; in flower at ditto, 442; in Victoria Park, 474; pruning, 279; select wall, 144; treatment of forced, 250 .Silene penuaylvanica, 295 ; Rubin Hood, 318 Skeleton leaves, 45 Slugs and spring crops, 392; and tender annuals, 493 ; and the frost, 332 Snowrtakes in the wild garden, 273 Snowdrop season, 328 Snowdrops, 171, 217 ; on stonccrop, 210 ; under Beech trees, 19 1 Soils, Epps's potting, 29 Solanums. l)erry-hearing, 124 ; in market gardens, 181 ; poor soil best for, 31 Solomon's Seal and Pans uuadrifolia, 157 Somertsetshlre, garden in, 252 Sonerila Hendersoni amreua, 509 Sophora speciosa, 313 Soplironitis grandiflora on cork, 175 Sorrel in Ferneries, 466 Spade hoes, 204, 248 Sparmannia africana, 7 Sparrows and Primrose bloom, 392, 430 Spinach, winter, 192 Spiraea nivosa, 425 ; Thuui)ergi, 375, 433 Spirreas in market gardens, 75 Spruce Fir, timber of, 193 Spurge, American, 153 Staphylea colchica, 57, 70 Stephauotis, flowerless, 243, 28^, 313 Stobrea purpurea, 12, 30, 50 ; hardiness of, 83, 93, 113 Stock, Js^ight-scented, propagating, 336 Stock seed, sowing, 294 Stocks in market gardens, 149 Stoke^Ja cyanea, 345, 353 ; in market gardens, 119 Storks in gardens, 142 Straw as fuel, 110 Strawberries and frost, 419, 439 ; and red spider, 275 ; early, 160 ; best early forcing, 146 ; exp.jsing to the sun, 374, 403, 419, 214 ; saucers of soil under forced, lul, 146, 159, 188, 320 ; for mir- ket, 402, 420 ; for table decoration, 335, 350 Strawberries in pots, 33S ; mildew on, 100 ; rooting tlu'ough pots. 350, 373 ; Vicomtesse Htiricart de Tiiury, 423, 441. 489 Strawberry houses, 268 Strawberry -growing for market, 301 Streptocarpus floribundus, hardiness of, 84 Succulents, Mr. Peacock's catalogue of, 483 Sunflower, graceful, 116 Sweet Peas, 154; sowing, 132 Sweet Williams, hardiness of, 317 Switzerland, flora of, 87 Tabernnemontana Camas3a, 473 Tacca pinnatitida, 273 'J'axodium sempervirens, 169 Thermometers, broken mercury in, 190 Thorn hedges, 302 'J'hurn, Paul's Double Scarlet, 5IG Thunbergias, 312 Thyrsacanthus rutilans. 57 Tirtany, mineral solution, 323 Tigridias, the, 142; in new Jersey, 294; wintered out-of-doors, 158 Tillaudsia zebrina major, 425 Timber, different qualities of, 60, 103, 126; steaming, 105 Timber trade, the, 432 Todea phimosa, 425 ; superba, 433 ; hardiness of, 109 Tomatoes all the year round, 309; cul- ture of, 206 ; fine, in spring, 474 ; from cuttings, 344 ; in winter, 77 ; late, 45 Torenia Bailloni, 122, 509 Tovaria oleracea, 474 Toxicophlfca speciosa, 367 Transplanting large fruit trees, 33 ; pre- paration of seedlings for, 241 Tiee drapery, 291 Tree Fern trunks, utilising dead, 519 Tree heights, how to calculate, 232 Tree planting in Canada, 431 Tree roots and dynamite, 61 Tree trunks, elongation of, 9 Trees and foundations, 23 Trees, avenue, 379; big, 322; fencing, from ra)>ltits, 108; flowering in parks, 387, 474 ; for wet ground, 357 ; London, 330, 454 ; in Victoria Park, 474 ; Japa- nese, 25 ; keeping rabl>its from barking, 327; lopping, 104; of the future, 71, 143, 1~S ; ornamental, etfect of frost on, 27, 42; rabbit-proof, 508; reviving young, 337; seedling Cork, 237; straight- ening, 285 ; street, 283, 500 ; thinning park, 281 ; canker in, 470 ; transplant- ing, in winter, 324 ; weeping, 235, 367; ditto, Chinese method of raising, 516 Trichocentruni tigrinum, 475 Tritomas and frost, 250 Tritonia aurea, 377 ; culture of, 54 Tropreolum speciosum, 96 ; when to plant, 462 ; tricolorum as a window plant, 371 Tropncolums, tuberous-rooted, 43 ; in plant baskets, 512 Tulteroses, culture of, 120 Tulip culture in Holland, 364 Tulip mania, reminiscence of, 150 Tulip Society, Royal National, 485 Tulipa Greigi, 346, 375 ; Kolpakowskyana, 339; stellata, 425, 454 Turf cutter, a useful, 303 Turnip ^nll weevil, 145 Turnip ninth, 20 Tuniip.s, iJiaiige Jelly, 392 Tydxa Kuljtrt le Dialjle, 376 Underwood and Beech trees, 73 Vand.is, multiplying, 226 Vanilla Tree, so-called, 466, 470 Vegetable culture in market gardens, 310, 397, 409, 433, 463, 472, 499, 512 Vegetable forcing, 63 Vegetable Marrows in market gardens, 408 Vegetable trials at Chiswick, 254 Vegetables, ertect of frost on, 100 ; forc- ing, 77 ; pr zes for, 109 ; transplant- ing, 241 ; scarcity of, 248, 254 ; v. fruit, 254 Vegetation in Durham, 353 Vegetation, local influence on, 416 Ventilating and heating, 78 ; Tobin's system of, 100, 127 ; fruit houses, 372 ; winter, 30 Verljenas, beddmg, 178 ; new, 222 Veronica Hulkeana, 339 Viijurnum iucidum, 57, 74, 196, 253 ; pH- catum under glass, 519 ; the plaited- leafed, 521 Vicarage garden, 322 Vienna, notes from, 327 ; public gardens in, 44 ; winter garden at, 12 Vine borders, artificial heat for, 373, 404, 411; protecting, 265; thatching, 238, 275 ; temperature of, 137, 138, 201 Vme cordons, 102 Vine culture for market, 213 Vine failures, 419 Vine-planting outside and inside, 35 Vine weevil, the, 392 Vines at Henbury Hill, 373 ; iilack rot in, 439 ; late, pruning and starting, 131 ; new plan of filling a house with, 324,372, 374,403.420,441; speedy fruiting of. 319; syringing, 405 ; transplanting, 112, 153 ; treatmeut of pot, 264; wintering ditto, 216 Vineries, fermenting material in, 200 Vineyards, Tlioniery, 274 Violas and Pansies, 408, 493, 511 ; and Pelargoniums, 157 ; bedding, 390, 409 ; early,~347, 369 Violet culture at Laxenburg, 348 ; for market, 178 Violets, Dog's-tooth, in Grass, 289; in market gardens, 154; situations for, 193 Walks, tarring, 230; weeds nn, 359 Wallflowers, culture of, '^iii; in market gardens. 111, 390 Wall plants, conservatory, 60 ; winter- flowering, 84 Water Melons, 502 Waterside planting, 431 Weatlier, severity of the, 136 Weeping trees, 235 Weigela, varieties of, 521 Wellingtonia, timber of, 23, 72, 365 V/ellingtonias, Lilliputian, 61 Wild garden, Pwonies in the. 313 Wild gardening, 286 Willow beetles, 466 Wdlows, Californian, 236 ; North Ameri- can, 9; some new, 508; treatmeut of , 105 Window Ferns, 176 V.'indow plants, 21, 137 ; Primroses as, 251 Winter, effects of the, 255, 415, 487 ; in Hants, 353 ; in Ireland, 370 ; in Dor- set, 452 Wire, galvanised, and Peach trees, 249, 265 Wireworms, 172, 412 ; in potting soil, 460 Wistaria, double-flowered, 521 ; sinensis, 521 Witloof, the, 392 Woodland work for January, 10 ; for February, 105; for ilarch, 225; for April, 285; for May, 363; for June, 432 X. Xanthoceras sorbifolia, 442, 460 Xerophyllum asphiKleloidcs, 497, 522 Xiphiun planifulium, 141 Yew hedge, historical, 367 Yev/ hedges, 362 Yews, Clematises on, 291 Yponomeuta padella, 85 Yucca gloriosa in Texas, 429 ; g, elegaus marginata, 509 Yuccas in Isle of M'ight, 217 Zamia obliqua, 425 .Tl-xe 28, 1879.] THE GARDEX. IX ILLXTSTI^.A_TI03SrS COLOURED P LATES. AQUILEGIA (iLANDULOSA AZALEAS, A GROUP OF HARDY BEGONIAS, TUBEROUS.ROOTED ... BOUVARDIAS, A GROUP OF BROWNEA MACROPHYLLA CALCEOLARIA FUCHSI^FOLIA ... CAMPANULA MACRO.STYLA DAFFODILS, A GROUP OF ERITRICHIUM NANUM GENTIANA BAVARICA GLADIOLUS MRS. BATES GLOXINIAS, SPOTTED HEATHS, NEW CAPE HYDRANGEA THOMAS HOGG ... 278 318 338 498 43G 258 356 202 416 278 240 162 102 58 LILIUM BATEMANNI.E LILIUM PARKMANNI NYMPH.EA ALBA VAR. ROSEA ... PENT.STEMON HUMILIS PHILADELPHUS, THE RHODODENDRON CINNABARINUM RHODODENDRON LEPIDOTUM . . ROSE JEAN LIABAUD ROSE M. E. Y. TEAS ROSE, THE TEA-SCENTED STOB.EA PURPUREA TIGRIDIA PAVONIA GRANDIFLORA TORENIA BAILLONI TYD.EA ROBERT LE DIABLE ... VERBENAS, FOUR NEW 396 4.56 516 416 476 132 36 298 298 80 12 142 122 376 222 ENGRAVINGS, Ailiantum palin.itum . 401 .Ayrotis segt'tuin 2 Anemone sylvestria . . . 42n Antirrliinum cuttings . . . 140 Aponogetou ilistauhyon . 3S9 Araucaria imbricata, catkins of . 507 ArneTjia echioiiies . 409 Ash, a curious 9 Asparagus \>ed . 344 Asp;u-a^us (lecunibens . 212 Asphodelus ramosus . . . 97 Atliyriuni Scanilicinum . 17 B. B.iinhoo slKiilhig . 301 Ganihusa lieterocycla. . . 75 Bed, a mosaic . 491 DavalMa (Microlepia) hii-ta cristata Devil's Coach-liorse r.03 323 Begtuiia Abel Canifcre . . . . 4S3 Bird-feeiling box 47 Bird scarer 165 Boilers, sections, of (3 illus.). . 494-95 Bomarea oliirantha 101 Broussonetia papyrifera BilliariU . . 53 BriTjhus pisi 65 Burdock, Giant, at Longleat .. 493 C. Campanula macrostyla Cananga odorata Carica Papaya Cecropia peltata Ceiitorhynchus sulclcullis . . Cheimatobia brumaria Chionodoxa Lucilis . . Clirysopa perla 187 ChyaisChelsoni 481 Cineraria maritima compacta . . 277 Clematis moutaua on a Yew branch 291 Clisiocampa neustria 129 Coffee Elirub 333 Conifer wood, sections of .. .. 195 Cosfius Ijgniperda 297 Daphne, grafting Eclnnocactus nnguispinus Ferns, Orchids on tree Floor-wiper, india-rubber . Fly, the lace-winged . . Fraxinua Remillyensis Fritillaria Karelini Fi'uit box, refrigerating Fruit house, market .. Fuchsia splt-ndens Furze, double, aft Longleat . G. Garden in south of France Genetyllis tulipifera, cutting of Globe flowers in the wild garden Gracillaria syringella. . Gynerium jubatum . . 137 331 303 187 9 121 33 263 233 493 449 328 1 443 179 H Haberlea riiodoi>ensis Hiiii-s, plant .. CI, 62, C3, Hellebore, green, in the wild garden " Hero's Targe "' Hoes, spade Hybernia defolaria Hydrangea, climbing . . Hypogymna dispar I. Icehouse . . ,, circular ,, plans of Idesia polycarpa var. criapa Ilang-llang Lachenalia pendula Lauriistinus, glossy-leaved . . Lomaria attenuata on dead Tree Feni trunk 161 59 191 471 239 M. Melon-Cucumbers Moth, brown-tailed . ,, small ermine . ,, the gt)at . . ,, the lackey N. Nectarine, shoot of . . Narcissus monophyllus Xephrolepis Duffi Niphobolus heteractis O. Oak galls Ocypus olei!s Osmunda palustris Otiorhynchus sulcatus 45 245 85 297 129 441 202 503 29 47 323 219 Prconies in the mid garden . . Palm, hardy Papaw tree, the Pea, Sweet Pea trellis Pea weevil Peach leaf glands Pemettya mucronata, cuttings of . . Pinguicula vulgaris Plant hairs .. .. 61,02, 03, Plant label, new Porthesia auriflua Potatoes, haulmless . . Primrose, Evening, in wild garden Piimula giandis Q. Quiet nook, a . . Quisqualis indica R. Ranunculus Lyalli Rocky 9tair-way in Pare des Enttes Chauniont 157 79 391 451 1 Ecsa poTyrntlia 46 Rose American Banner . . . . 82 Rose aphis trap 381 Rose border, a 421 Rose tree, double shield-budort, Northampton. Pyrus sinensis — This sub.evergreen is well worth planting as a ppring. flowering park tree. Its foliage is large and gloasy, and it la a strong grower. Its fruit, I believe, is worthless. — G. B. Cornus Mas aurea elsgantissima. — Amongst variegated deciduons shrubs this is quite a gem, its rich and varied tinta being hardly inferior to those of some of the best variegated stove Crotons. It is a new plant, and aa yet rather expensive, but, being really good, it will be anre to give both pleasure and satisfaction. — G. B. Holly Berries. — These are scarce this winter : they are now nil. The fieldfares and other birds have made a clean aweep of the lot. Old berries and young have all disappeared, and seldom has a white Christmas been so litt'e relieved by scarlet berries or colour of any tort. Should the present severe weather last, the birds will have a sorry time of it soon, for Hipa and Hawa have all disappeared, as well as the Holly berries ; even Acorns, which were almost the only full crop of the past season, are going fast under the combined on. s'aa»ht of the pheasants and the pigeons, which have crowded the woods in swarms for the past eight days after the Acorna.— D. T. Fish. 10 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 1879. ROSES. NOTES BY AN OLD ROSARIAN. As these papers are written for amateurs (meaning by that not amateur exhibitors, but for those who love the Kose.'and who value it for its own sake, and not for the honours it may bring them), I must say that the manner in which it is grown is too often neither creditable to the possessor nor fair to the flower. Here is the character of Rose growing as I have seen it over and over again. There is probably a Grass plot or lawn, or whatever term it may be dignified by; around this a piece has been dug out of the soil at intervals ; in this has been planted a row of tall standards, which are elegantly supported by green stakes, and on the top of this standard is, or was, a head of some 2 ft. or 3 ft. in diameter and a fair amount of bloom. But is there any beauty in a standard Rose tree ? Is this the most graceful way in which the loveliest of all flowers can be grown ? Are green mops the perfection to which skill and patience can bring our Roses ? There is but one place in which they are to my mind tolerable, and that is where a Rose border is made, and they occupy the back row ; the front rows then hide the stock on which the Rose is budded ; but to place them in a small garden and in a place where they are fully in view is surely subversive of all principles of good taste. But then there is another drawback. The owner has, perhaps, noticed at Rose shows some remarkable blooms, and, of course, he must have the best, and equally, of course, he does not stop to consider whether they are strong- growing varieties or not ; and so he gets home his Marie Baumann, Marquise de Mortmarte, or Mademoiselle Marie Cointet (for he could never think of ordering anything but Hybrid Perpetuals), and is surprised to find that, instead of getting larger, the heads of the plants diminish in size until they have vanished altogether. Blanks are left, the beautiful regularity is spoilt, and a whole year must be spent before the row can resume its regular appearance. Another favourite plan is to have a round bed with some half-dozen standards planted in it, and some annuals sown in the soil beneath. This is often done in the front gardens of villa residences, where it is as much out of place and in as little harmony with the sur- roundings as a huge Deodar (which one often sees) filling up the entire space and darkening all the front windows of the house. Then there are other Roses scattered throughout the grounds, sometimes stuck in the middle of a clump of shrubs, sometimes arranged in beds with other plants. Have I not before my mind's eye now a lovely (?) arrangement which I saw this last summer— a bed of dwarf Roses, and planted in amongst them, of all things in the world, some Chilian Beet ? I was certainly not asked by the lady who showed me the garden to admire this, for she pointed it out as an example of the taste of her gardener, in whose hands the arrangement had been left. When dwarfs are grown, I have over and" over again seen what seemed to the owner as flourishing bushes, but of which the complaint was sadly made that they did not flower. Nor was this to be wondered at ; the poor Rose had long since departed, and the Manetti stock had flourished vigorously, as it always does, and the wood, not being so distinct in its appearance from many Roses as the Brier, the result is as I have indicated. Then no attention whatever is given to the aspect in which the Roses are planted ; sometimes it is a bleak and windy spot in the garden, where they are well-nigh blown out of the stocks ; sometimes in a dreary border, where the sun never reaches them until late in the afternoon ; sometimes in a dry and arid spot, where they are left to shift for them- selves and never mulched or watered, and yet their owners are very much astonished that they cannot grow Roses such as Messrs. Paul, or Cant, or Baker, Jowitt, or Hole exhibit at the Great Rose tournaments. As well might an ordinary farmer, who does not stall feed, groom, or carefully house his cattle, complain that his beasts are never so fine as those which he sees exhibited at the Smithfield Club show. None of these results can be obtained without a great expenditure of money, time, and anxiety, and it is unreasonable to expect them with- out it ; but, at the same time, Roses of nearly equal size and beauty may be grown, if attention be given to some of those points which are essential to the well-being of the Rose. There is one fact which it may seem ungracious to notice, but it is true, for all that, that it is utter waste to attempt to grow the Rose where it comes under the influence of smoke. Many and fruitless have been the attempts to overcome this, and yet withal people do not like to think that they must give up their favourite. Do I not remember how my friend G., who had been living in a cool and open spot, where his Roses flourished well, on removing near a large town, persuaded himself — Ah ! it is not like London, and my dear Roses need not be given up. They were removed tenderly and carefully planted, but, alas ! do what he would they obstinately refused to grow ; they missed the gentle zephyr which used to come and woo them with pure and sweet breath, and the dew distilled in all its purity on every leaflet. Instead of it, clouds of poison- laden vapours swept over them ; fierce breezes, that whistled through long rows of houses, caught them ; they shrivelled up under these baneful infiuences, and when I saw G. last, the Roses had all gone and scarlet Pelargoniums had taken their place. What advice, then, can I give to the lovers of the Rose whose ambition it is to have a few good Roses, and who also wish for variety in their gardens ? I would, in the first place, strongly recommend the rejection of all standards ; independently of their ugliness, there are other reasons which I think should insure their rejection in small gardens ; the sap has to travel a long way up, and unless they are in thoroughly good Rose soil, which is not very often the case in small gardens, sufficient nourishment is not conveyed to the scion, and hence feebleness and death take place, and a gap amongst standards is more noticeable than amongst dwarfs, amongst which, too, deaths are not so likely to take place. Then as they do not throw out so many shoots, unless they are very carefully watched the worm in the bud attacks them and the bloom is destroyed ; doubtless hand-picking will remedy this, but it is not every- body who can spare the time for that, and as regards abun- dance of bloom, as a rule, we must claim it for dwarf Roses. Then, I would say, be careful as to the position you choose for your Roses, and, if possible, give them a place to them- selves. I do not mean a Rosery, a grand place with ti'ellised arches and elaborate arcades, but even if it be only two or three beds, by all means endeavour to keep them to themselves. The Rose will not brook nursing with other flowers, and no real lover of it will care to see it lowered by a plebeian mixture. Even when we cut our Roses we do not care to see them mixed up in a bouquet with other flowers ; we prefer putting them in speci- men glasses or vases by themselves, wanting nothing but their own foliage to set them off. It must not be forgotten, too, that Roses suffer very much both from wind and frost; and hence, if a position can be given to them which is sheltered and, at the same time, not confined, it should unquestionably be done. Dwarf Roses do not suffer so much as standards from either of these foes ; they are not so much exposed to the wind, and it is comparatively easy either to mulch the beds in frosty weather or to place some Fern or small branches of Spruce or Laurel amongst them ; but they do not like a confined space ; it gene- rates mildew and Orange fungus. As it is not in every small garden that these requirements can be met, the best must be made of circumstances, and the spot most in accordance with these conditions chosen. I have seen as healthy and fine plants, and as good blooms, in some small suburban gardens as I have seen anywhere, and keeping these in view, and remembering the lamentable shortcomings I have seen in other gardens, I wish to show how it is possible for the lover of the Rose to enjoy his favourite fiower. In my next paper I hope to enter on the question of stocks and soil, both vei y important elements in successful Rose growing. Delta. Souvenir de la Malmaison Rose. — Can any Rose grower explain how it is that this fine Rose is nearly always malformed and comparatively useless early in the year, so many of the hearts being hard and green or black, while in the autamn almost every flower is perfect in form, and far more delicate and elegant in bnd than it is early in the season ? Can it be that there is an excess of vital force early in the year, and that, as this gets expended or used up, the buds get fined down, and the Roses grow into proper form ? This rather receives confirmation from the fact that plants on strongjsoils are, aa a rule, more grossly malformed than those on light and poor Jan. 4, 187f>.] THE GAKDEN. 11 soil, though it i3 seldom, indeed, that the earlier crops of Koeea «aoap9 malformation, and equally rare to find imperfect flowers on the Soaveiir de la Malmaisua R)3e in the aatamn.— D. T. Fisn. FLOWER FOECING IN MARKET GARDENS. Hyacinths, Tulips, add Narcissi. — The quantities of tlieee forced every year are immense. One grower uses 160,000 Hyacinths and 10,000 Tulips, another grower 70,000 Hyacinths and TiOjOOO pots of Tulips, yearly, and others in proportion. The bulbs are all, of course, imported from Holland, and as soon as they are received in autumn they are potted into O-in. pots, placed in square beds out-of-doors, and thickly covered over with cocoa-nut fibre; this, being light, can easily be removed, so that the most forward bulbs may from time to time be selected as required for forcing. Good growers always endeavour to send a few dozen pots of Hyacinths to market the day before Christmas. There is then a ready sale for them at good prices, sometimes as much as from 20s. to 30s. per dozen being paid for them. For this purpose the bulbs are placed in a gentle bottom-heat in a warm and partially dark house until their flower-heads show themselves, when more light is gradually admitted until they are subjected to every possible ray that can be secured. In this way successive batches are continually being brought on until the end of April, after which time Hyacinths are nearly over. Tulips are placed in shallow wooden boxes, and in these they remain until their flower-buds can be seen, when they are lifted and potted, four or five in 5-in, or C-in. pots, using good sandy loam for the purpose. The sorts of Tulips principally grown are the scarlet, rose, and white Van Thols, the yellow La Piuie d'Or or Golden Prince, and the common single Van Thol. RoiiiKH HijiAcuitli. — This charming early-flowering plant is largely grown by nearly all market growers. The bulbs are imported from France, Holland, and Belgium ; and in some seasons, when Continental growers anticipate a larger demand for roots than the supply is well able to meet, very high prices arc often demanded for them from English growers. Notwithstanding this, they are exten- sively cultivated, and invariably realise good prices ia Covent Garden, their sweet-scented, pure white blossoms being so much sought after just at a time when good flowers are comparatively scarce. There are few bulbous plants that will bear rapid forcing better than this Hyacinth, and few that better repay the little trouble which they incur in bringing them into bloom. From the end of October to Christmas there is always a good sale for Roman Hya- cinths ; and any one visiting Covent Garden at that time of year may see large vases and glasses full of fine large spikes of flowers, waiting to be consumed in the making of bouquets aud other floral devices. Another kind closely allied to this Hyacinth, and indeed one that may be termed a blue-flowered form of it, is grown as a succession crop, but coming in as it does a month or so later, and the blossoms being coloured, they do not fetch nearly so high a price as the white ones. Roman Hyacinths are brought on in successional batches, the bulbs bcintr jjut thickly in boxes as soon as imported, and placed out-of-doors under a G-in. covering of spent Hops or Cocoa-nut fibre. "When the shoots are 2 in. or so in height, the boxes are removed, put into a little warmth, and snowy flower-spikes come up directly. Narcissi. — All kinds of these are grown extensively in orchards, near old walls and in other bye-corners, and their blossoms are always desirable ; amongst the many kinds that find their way to market, none are more beautiful than the Paper-white Narcissus (N. papyraceus). Its flowers are produced naturally in February and March, and, being small and of the purest white colour, they are highly esteemed for bouquets and other decorative purposes. The Pheasant-eye Narcissus (N. poetic us), too, is very l^retty ; it comes in later — say, about the first week of April ; but then flowers are getting plentiful, and it is not so much thought of as it would be were it produced earlier in the season. After this comes its beautiful double variety. Immense bunches of both kinds may be seen on the stalls, and in market women's baskets, dc, and are suitable for those who trade in second or third-class flowers. Great jjiles of the common yellow Dafibdil of our woods may be seen at every turn in the market in spring, as well as the choicer kinds of our gardens. The latter generally come from places where the bulbs are grown in quantity for sale. Most of the bulbs of the Nar- cissi which are forced are imported from Holland ; they are chiefly grown to supply cut flowers. The Paper-white Narcissus is the first to bloom ; then follows the double Roman, with five and six and more large double flowers on a truss ; N. gloriosus comes in afterwards. The bulbs attain great strength during the time they are hidden from view under a heavy coating of rich fertilising material, and their blossoms are always in great demand. Immense quantities of flowers of Narcissi of nearly all species and varieties are sujjplicd to Covent Garden from bulb nurseries, the removal of the blooms being said to benefit the bulbs, and the money obtained for them where large quantities are grown is considerable. Ckocuees. — These are not forced in very large numbers but are grown extensively between fruit trees. They are planted on raised beds of good rich soil, and when they come into bloom arc lifted in little clumps, their roots tied in Moss, and placed in boxes for market. The common yellow, blue, and white are the kinds i^rincipally grown, and to see the beds — which sometimes occujiy more than half an acre of ground in one jjlace — in full bloom is a sight better imagined than described. Lilt or the Valley. — Few flowers are more univer- sally admired than the Lily of the Valley, and few are more remunerative to the grower when he can get a ready sale for them. The earliest plants are usually got into bloom about Christmas, when good potfuls sell retail for 10s. 6d. each in the market. For this purpose single imported crowns without any earth adhering to them are used. These are selected by the Belgians and Dutch, who grow them extensively ; and all are warranted flowering crowns. A large quantity of these can be packed in a very small compass ; therefore the freightage costs but little, and the roots themselves, when bought in quantity, are very cheap. These are placed as soon as received in strong bottom-heat, and when nearly in bloom they are potted, together with a few roots grown for their leaves, in 5-in. pots ; they are well watered, and, after being har- dened off a little are taken to market. Sometimes, how- ever, the rai^id forcing causes them to come " blind ;" but g'ood, plump-looking crowns can g'enerally be trusted. Ferns are sometimes mixed with the bulbs in jDotting, and sometimes the beautiful blue-flowered Scilla sibirica is employed with good effect. Some growers force Lily of the Valley early for cut blooms alone ; and where they can sell all they grow, this plan is perhaps the most re- munerative, as at Christmas single sprays fetch from 6d. 12 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 1879. to Is. each. Later supplies are grown from imiwrted clumps, which contain from twelve to twenty buds ; these arc potted in 5-in. and 6-in. pots, and placed under cover, a quantity being introduced at a time as re{juircd. Market gardeners always put as large clamps of crowns of Lily of the Valley as possible into the pots. If they como up well, and the shoots are too thick, all sujierfluous shoots are removed when they are about 3 in. high and have formed their flowers. As many roots as possible are obtained with each shoot so removed, and six or eight of them are potted together into other pots. A little soil is placed on the surface of the imts from which they were taken in order to fill up the vacancy, and the whole is placed in warm quarters to develop their flowers and leaves perfectly. The thinnings never make good plants ; on the contrary, they fail even to make a single rootlet ; but the sole rt-ason for potting them is that they produce a few sprays of cut bloom, which, early in the year, fetch high prices, and it being found that as much money can be obtained from a moderately well-filled pot as a thickly- filled one, thinning of the crowns becomes a profitable practice. One grower uses as many as G,000 clumps of Lily of the Valley yearly, in addition to several thousand single crowns imjiorted free of earth. Indeed the weight of roots used by him every year exceeds four tons. Outdoor flowers of Lily of the Valley brought to market from the country are generally green and poor compared with those produced either early or late on imported jslauts. The method of growing Lily of the Valley adopted by the Dutch growers is somewhat diflerent from that practised near London. They dig up single crowns and tie them up in bundles of ten or twelve together, and plant them in a soft loamy soil, well manured with cow manure, at a distance of 10 in. or 12 in. between the bundles, in a shady position. The plants are not disturbed for three , years, when they will be found to have formed good clump?. Plants thus treated, are remarkably well adajjted for forcing. For this purpose they are i^lanted in pots of suitable size, covering the crowns with an inch or two of soil, and then the pots are plunged for about a fortnight in Cocoa-nut fibre. By that time they will be well rooted. The pots are then plunged in Cocoa-nut fibre in a hot- house, covering them to a depth of 5 in. or 6 in They remain there until the plants appear above the sur- face of the fibre, when the pots are taken out and put for a few days in a warm place, after which they are removed into a light house to expand their flowers. C. W. S. A WINTER GA.RDKN". A VERY suggestive illustration of whit is possible in a winter garden, sciroely differing from an ordinary building, may be seen in the private gardens of the Emperor at Vienaa. There an enormous building with only one side (and that not wholly) ot glass is planted as a winter garden, and the effect in some respects is superior to anything of the kind to be seen else- where. The main lesson, however, that the building affords is in showing how far it is possible to make a beautiful winter garden in a building which is not a glass shed, and which, therefore, allows of the usual architectural treatment. Gener- all}', the most successful winter gardens are those wholly of glass, and we have recommended such as the only satisfactory means of securing a healthy growth and satisfactory results therein. The conservatory in the Botanic Gardens iu the Regent's Park may be taken as the model of a good house for the purpose alluded to. Unlike it, the winter gardens we allude to, however, are those in which tubs and pots do not appear, in which the vegetation is planted out, and a natural and artistic effect sought. All those that we have illustrated in The Garden were houses of this kind. The Vienna winter garden is quite as graceful as any of them, with this difference, that nearly all its plants are out-of-doors during the summer. It is, in fact, an immense " Orangery," in which a large col- lection of plants is stored in the most graceful and natural way imaginable, with devious walks, little carpets of turf formed of Lycopodium, Tree Ferns, giant Dracasnas, with Ivy festooned naturally among them, and ferns in abundance. Apart from the question of winter gardens, this points to the fact that we require more courage as regards embellishing semi-lighted places with plants, not for a day or a week, but a season. Numbers of subjects that make their growth in sum- mer, whether in or out-of-doors, would not suffer in the least from being grouped in imperfectly-lighted positions, always assuming that a suitable temperature was maintained, and that they were not exposed to injury from gas. -PXj^TE CXj"VIIX. STOB.EA. PURPUREA. This is a member of a numerous genus of South African Thistles, or rather Thistle-like plants, for they are more nearly related in floral structure to Senecio than true Thistles. Many of them are exceedingly handsome and noble plants, and S. purpurea is perhaps the finest of its genus ; but in spite of their ornamental charactei, few of them have been introduced into our gardens, and those which have have found little favour. This is probably due to the fact that they are .scai'cely suitable for indoor culture, and to grow them in per- fection in the open air some little attention is required, as they are not perfectly hardy. Stobasa purpurea is, however, one of those plants which recommend themselves to the genuine lover of flowers. In its native haunts, in the valleys of the Winterberg, Mrs. Barber found it growing in large patches, many thousands of plants growing close together, as if they had been planted in beds, and making a very imposing show. Like our less showy Thistles, then, it is of a gre- garious nature, and it is very effective in masses, though single plants in a mixed border are equally prominent. In a wild state it grows from 2 ft. to 3 ft. high, and doubtless in a rich soil it would grow higher. Nearly all the Stobajas have yellow flower-head.?, but our plant has them of some shade of violet, purple, or lilac, and in the Kew Herbarium there is a specimen of a variety having pure white flower-heads. In Bentham and Hooker's " Genera Plantarum," Stob»a is referred to Berkheya, forming together a genus of upwards of seventy species, all, except one tropical African, natives of South Africa. Berkheya grandiflora, a fine yellow-flowered species, was formerly in cultivation, and a figure of it appeared in the "Botanical Magazine," t. 1844'; and in the same volume, t. 1783, there is a figure of the comparatively insigniSoant Stobaea pinnata. This is the first publication of a coloured plate of the handsome S. purpurea, which flowered in Mr. Ware's nursery last summer, and which was introduced into this country a few years ago by Mr. Wilson Saunders, through the agency of Mr. MoOwan, of Yale College, Somerset East, South Africa. W. B. Hesislet. Cupania fiUcifolia as a" Spacimen Plant. — This makes a handsome specimen plant, when well managed, for the decoration of the stove or warm greenhouse. It grows freely under liberal cultare, and retains its graceful lace-like leaves down to the base. Old plants of it, cat down and allowed to push up a single shoot, soon develop into handsome specimens. We lately saw some which had been thus treated in the Victoria Nursery, and which are now from 6 ft. to 8 ft. high, and well famished with foliage down to the pot. This plant is here very saecesafnlly propagated (a somewhat difficult operation as a rale), and grown into neat little plants for table deco- ration.— S. Cycas iatermedi*. — This noble plant is much better adapted for the decoration of the conservatory than any other Cycas. Its leaves are long and graceful, and of a pea-green colour. It is also said to be hardier than C. circinalis or C. revoluta, and, being less stiff and formal in habit, it is preferable to either of them. I lately saw fine examples of it in Mr. Williams' nursery at HoUoway. — 8. i^ \ 4 y THE GARDEN THE PURPLE STOB^A ( S . PURPUREA.) Jan. 4. 1879.] THE GARDEN. 13 GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. stove. There is a ooneiderable difference between the stove proper — that is, the house devoted to heat-requiring plants, wherein a salficient tem- perature i3 kept np to preserve in a growing healthy c:indition those that coone from the hottest regions, ot which, for example, may bo taken Ixoras, Dipladeniae, Combretuma, Crotong, Anthuriums, Arto- oarpug, Dieffenbaohiaa, Marantag, Nepenthea, Pandanadg, Cyano- phyllumg, Sphserogyneo, and many othera of similar nature — and the intermediate house, where a temperature is maintained enough for such plants as d) not require quite so ranch heat ag the genera already named, but yet need keeping considerably warmer than true greenhouse plants. It often happens that an attempt is made to keep through the winter plants that at all times of the year need a high temperature, in houses where really no more heat is at command than is requisite for intermediate subjects ; the result of thig is, they are, daring the winter season, so checked that the spring is far advanced before they get into a decent healthy growing state, making com- paratively little progress, and, in the case of plants grown for their flowers, producing a correspondingly small amount of bloom. lu place of this I have always found it best, where there is not the means of keeping up suiScient heat, to confine the cultivation to those plants that do not want more than an intermediate temperature. The stove should now for some weeks be kept in the night at from 65' to 68''- or 70°, according to the state of the weather, with a rise by day of 5' or 6'. Frequently, when it is clear and sunny, the thermometer will for a short time run up a few degrees higher than this. The intermediate house will do some 10? lower, day and night. Fermentiag Material. — Nothing is more conducive to '^ healthy growing atmosphere than a good body ot fermenting mate" rial present in the stove, independent of whether it is the practice o^ the cultivator to plunge the greater portion of the plants, or only such as bottom heat is found indispensable for. With this view the requisite quantity of tan, than which nothing is so enduring in the heat it keeps up, or leaves, if they are used, ghould be at once got in. Iq clearing out the old material care should be taken to remove the whole, so as to get rid ot worms, that are almost certain to hive more or less got possession ot it, and from which they find their way to the balls of the plants, and do much injury. Advantage should be taken to hot limewash the inside of the pit as well ag all other brick, work surfaoas in the hons', also to give a thorough cleaning (o the glass and woodwork, by which the greatest possible amount of light will be admitted to the plants. Where the heating power happens to be deficient, a considerable body of tan, as already described, will, in a short time from its introduction, increase the temperature of the honge several degrees, and maintain such until the weather is warmer by the increase of sun-heat. Ix iras. — Any plants ot Ixora that were not c it back after flower, ing in summer — which is much the best time for the opsratiou^f there appears a likelihood of their getting into a too straggling con- dition before the end of the season, may be shortened back ; but iu doing this it must be borne in mind that it will a good deal delay the time ot their blooming. Where several of a kind are grown, it a portion be thus treated, a succession will be secured. Dipladenlas. — These, when they have attained suSioieut size and strength, should ba freely cnt back every year, reducing the shoots (almost like what is done in ordinary Vine culture) to a little beyond the point to which they were shortened the preceding year. Bougainvillea glabra. — This, the most useful and manageable ot the genus, should be started early, by which means it will flower two or three times during the season. In pruning it. it is better to remove the weak shoots, retaining those that are sulfijiently strong to push stout blooming growths. It the plants have baen, as they ought, well ripened np and dried off by withholding water at the roots until the leaves have fallen, they shoald now be thoroughly soaked in a tub or backet containing as much tepid water as will admit of the balls, pots and all, being immersed for twelve hours ; this is far safer than simply giving water in the ordinary way, which is often so deceptive as to only moisten a portion of the soil, in which case they break weakly, the caase often not being discovered until a good deal of time is lost. AUamandas should be at onoi cut back 'in the case ot full- grown specimens, removing, as with the Dipladeoias, the greater portion ot the preceding summer's shoots ; for it too great a leng'h of these be left, the plants get crowded with useless wood. I have found it best, when those plants have attained cheir full requisite strength, to re-pot at the tine they are pruned, as in this case they require so tar shaking out as to necessitate disrooting to one-third or one-half the whole extent of the previous season's formed roots ; and if this be not done until the plants have bri'ken into growth, a con- siderable portion of the young shoots started will not make further progress. As they, like the Bougainvilleas, will have been allowed to get quite dry at the root, they should be similarly soaked before potting, so as to insure the whole of the soil being moistened. AUa- mandas grown as roof climbers should be in like manner cut back, in extent according to the size they have attained, and the space they are required to cover ; and, it planted out, must have some ot the surface soil removed and replaced with new, to which a good quan- tity of manure has been added. Shrubby Clerodendrons. — These, including the different kinds ot the C. fallax tribe, should, in the case ot old plants, be well cut back, leduc'ng them to 1 ft. or so above the collar, otherwise they get naked and unsightly. Previous to pruning, let the soil get com- paratively dry, keeping it in this condition until they have broken freely. Gloxinias. — By judicious management, these may be had in flower for a considerable portion ot the year, arid when treated in the manner that givos them the stout, robust character which admits of the flowers standing satisfactorily in a cut state, they are most ugeful tor this purpose. With this object, a few of the tubers earliest put to rest may be started, shitting them into not too large pots, and, if possible, putting them on a shelf or other position where they will be close to the glass, as npon their having all the light pogsible depends the full amount ot usefulness being sacnred, either for general decoration or tor cutting, as already alluded to. Gardenias. — If the plants have been well cared tor the preceding season, and are clear from insects, they will furnish a long succession of flower through the spring, keeping them well up to the glass, by which means theiradvancing buds will be m:ic5h less likely to dropoff — a circumstance that frequently occurs when they are subjected to a good deal of heat, with a view to getting them on early. Pentas caraea and P. rosea. — These continuous and free- flowering subjects, it well attended to and grown in moderate warmth, will keep on flowering from every bit ot growth they make. Bouvardias. — Where sufficient plants exist, and there ia the con- venience ut keeping them ia different teiiperaturds, a portion should occupy the lightest position in the stove, with thoii' heads close to the glass, as upon this, lika many other wintjr. flowering stove subjects, depends their abMity to endure whea cut. If well-grown plants with strong shoots arc secured, these, by keeping thus war^i, will continue miking grovth anl bearing flowers for a long time, as, when the bloom prolucel from the leading portions ot the shoots has been c it away, they will keep on breaking from the loivereyes, in this way yielding a succession. Plumba^^o rosea and Erantbemum pulchellum will, if the plants have been strong, continue proJusing Uiwers froui the weaker growths after the leading shootg are over, and will ba benefited by a little weak manure water. Intermediate House.— V/here the means doas not exist of keep- ing the warmest plant house above an intermediate temperature, such operations as the foregoing should be delayed tor soma weeks yet, so far as the shaking out and potting ot any plants go, inasmuch as these matters should not be carried out until there is enough heat to at once excite growth. Destructiin of Insects. — In plint growing there is no such thing as an immunity from insects, as, with the utmost vigilance, some ot the less objectionable kinds are certain to be troublesome from time to time ; and with the most injurious species, such as mealy bug, where thtse exist it is impossible to keep »,ny colleotion ot plants, large or small, in a condition that will give the best results in general appearance and the quantity of bloom they produce, without either absolute extermination, and afterwards the greatest care, so as not to introduce affected plants amongst the stojk, or by continual appli- cation to keep them so thinned that the injury they inflict will be reduced to a minimum. As it is at this comparatively dormant period that insects can best bo coped with, it may be well to remind those in charge ot collections ot plants, that the hours spent in the destruction ot these pests at this tine will ba more elf actual than a correspmding number of days whan the season is further advanced and their increise much greater. Whatever insecticide is used, it should b) 8;ich as admits of the whole of the affected plants above the soil being Hipped or syringed with the liquid so as to reach every part, birk and leaves. I have no faith in any but liquid applications for the worst descriptions of insects, such as bugs and scale, aa with anything in the form of dust or powder there is no certainty ot its reaching the whole surface ot the plants ; neither are such liquids that do not admit of being nsed in sufficient quantity to get 14 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 1879, to every part of the atEeoted speoimeng of any good except where there happens to be only a very few small plants infested, as their use involves too much labour and uncertainty. Where anything like an attempt is to be made at complete eradication, not only should those plants that are known to be affected be subjected to the cleans- ing process of immersion or syringing, bat every plant, large or small, on which the insects can find food or shelter, should also be similarly treated, and the operation repeated continuously until there is something like a certainty of both eggs and mature insects being destroyed. Forcing Pit. — Upon the sufficient size and right oonstrnction of this structure depends, in a great measure, the ability to keep np a supply of cut flowers now tor some months where there is a can. siderable quantity required, for with such plants as are brought into flower in heat, through the winter more particularly, those that after the first production of bloom will immediately make sucoessional £;rowth and flower from it, unless this growth be made in a thoroughly light house, with the heads of the plants elevated as near the glass as they can be got, the bloom is certain to be worthless for cutting from its soft, flimsy character. It is through imperfect realisation of this that many winter. grown flowers receive an undeserving character for being of little use, when the fault rests in the way they have been grown and not in the plants themselves. The temperature kept up here should be from 65' to 70° in the night, with a rise of 10' by day, according to the weather. Tuberoses. — As these are brought on in succession, with a little bottom-beat if possible in the first instance until they have got their pots well filled with roots, they should be placed with the points of the shoots close to the roof, lowering them as they advance in growth. Dj not over-water, but give sufficient to keep their somewhat mois- ture-impatient roots in an active condition. Withhold water alto, gether from the sncoessional bulbs until it is certain that they have pushed a good amount ot roots. liily of the Valley.— Bring in sufficient quantities of this to keep up the supply, plunging them in heat until the shoots have made considerable progress, after which expose them gradually but slowly. Iiilass. — Where these are forcsd in quantity and there is no place where they can be kept perfectly dark in the way necessary to pro. duce the blanched flowers, a few may be introduced to the forcing pit, but in all cases the plants should consist of such as have been previously prepared and grown on for the purpose, as ordinary bushes if dug up have generally an unsightly appearance, and bear little flower compared with their size. Where a forcing pit or house, such as here described, exists, and which is an absolute necessity where large supplies of winter.foroed flowers are needed, and the object is to have them with the least expenditure of fuel and labour, as well as to obviate the unavoidable compromise in treatment that becomes necessary when brought on in an ordinary stove, the annual winter- blooming occupants, of which that may be said to consist of an annual growth prepared through the summer, will find their best and most Bnitable place here. Hyacinths, Narcissi, and Tulips.— These, especially the two former,Jmu9t be brought on in succession, but they require a cooler position than in the house under consideration. Potting Soils. — The most successful cultivators of pot.grown plants at the present day are fully aware of the absolute necessity of selecting the best, and nothing but the best and moat suitable soils for the requirements of the different plants they grow, without which it; would have been futile to look for the high standard that has been reached ; but, unfortunately, there are very many who do not to the full extent realise the importance of this, and follow the penny-wise course of attempting to grow their plants in any sort of material that is called peat or loam as the case may be. The greatest rnistake is committed in respect to the former, by using any descrip. tion of poor, worthless, material, provided it comes under the name of peat, often of a close, black, hungry character, which, even if the plants appear to thrive for a time, has no lasting properties in it to keep the roots in the required healthy condition ; hence the plants never attain the full vigour they are capable of, but go off prema- turely. Nothing but the best peat selected and obtained from locali- ties where such is to be had should satisfy the cultivator, and the same may be said as regards loam, only the latter can be had from many more sources. Anything less than this is simply a waste not only of labour, but also in the cost of fuel and the glass erections in which the plants are grown. As the time for potting many plants is fast approaching I could not give more seasonable advice to all desirous of growing their plants well than to procure those soils that are best adapted for the kinds which they cultivate. Orchids. Eiat Indian House. — The temperature best calculated to meet the requirements of the many plants from diff^reat coaatries located here may be put down for the night at as near 60° for the next six or seven weeks as it can be got, with a rise of from 6" to 8° by day, according to the weather. S iccolabiuma. — Put these at the extreme warmest end of the house ; they will not bsar well such a lengthened drying up of the roots as the generality of Aerides. Cire must be taken that they are not long kept so dry a? to cause the leiva3 to shrivel to any appreciable extent, for should this occur, more ot the old lower ones will turn yellow and fall off than is consistent with the ever aug- mented numbers and increasing size that healthy plants should con. sist ot. Aerides. — These, like the Saooolabiums, should be now at rest j their leaves, being considerably tougher and harder in texture, as well as the plants generally, they are able to bear a lower tempe- rature than Sicoolabiumi, and can stand without injury a totally dry state oE the roots somewhat longer; but it the plants have been grown under conditions of light, air, and a healthy, not saturated, atmosphere, they will show plenty of flower-spikes without too much drying up, and ths temperature above indicated will not induce them tj push flower too soon, or bring the bloom on earlier than required by those who may wish to somewhat retard it. Vaudas. — These will bear keeping dry for a time, but great care must be taken not to carry it too far, or the lo33 of nnmbera ot the lower leaves i3 certain to follo?v. To this cause, coupled with the plants being grown under conditions that have made the leaves soft and deficient in substance, is directly attributable the unsightly naked stats in which they are too often seen. Phalasnopsis. — Consisting, as they do, of little bssides roots and fle3hy leaves, an undue amount of drying at the roots is fatal to them ever increasing in size, as is their wont, for when subjected to this, the loss of leaf at the base is generally equal to what they have made at the top during the current season, bat though, as I have already urged with the preceding family ot plants, the necessity for care in seeing that a totally dry condition of the material in which the roots are placed is not carried too long when water is given, it should by no means be applied in such quantities as to wet it to the extent requisite in summer during the time they are making growth, but ju3t a little, so as to bring the Sphagnum, &c., to that state best described as being neither wet nor dry. — T. Bawks. Flower Garden. Auriculas. — A grower of these, writing from the north, says, "My frames are covered with a thick bUuket, and over that 1 ft. ot snow;" and then he adds, "What shall I do with them?" The answer is, l^t them alone. If the pots are frozen, it matters little whether the frames are closely shut up or not. When the frost dis. appears, the plants should be looked over, and all decayed leaves removed. Only water the plants it the soil in the pots be dust-dry, but not at all during frost. Carnations and Picotees. — The instructions given tor Auri- culas apply to these, but it is better not to allow the soil in the pots to become quite so dry as that ot the Auriculas. Of course, it would be injudicious to water at all during severe frost. There will be a number of decaying leaves to bo removed, and ths soil in the pots should be pressed in a little if loose. Dahlias. — It is quite necessary to look over the roots. Decay frequently takes place at the crown. Such roots can be saved by placing them in heat — a very gentle, rather dry heat. It is almost too early to start any ot the roots yet ; bat those who want a good supply of plants from a limited stock ot roots will be making pre- pirations for a start. Gladioli. — Seedlings of these in pots may have been stored away with the soil quite dry, and, if such moisture as it contained has quite evaporated, the bulbs, being small, miy not start ; bat if the soil contains moisture, they will. It is better, therefore, on the whole, to shake them quite out of it. The large roots keep well it each sort be wrapped up separately in paper, and stored in a dry place in a frost-proof room. Hollyhocks. — Choice varieties ot these, potted from the open ground two months ago, should be placed on a shelf in a Vinery or Peach house near the glass. Frost should not be allowed to get into the house, and it placed in a warmer situation, the shoots will be ready by the end ot the month to be taken off as cuttings, or to be used for grafting on pieces of roots. The commoner sorts wintered in frames will bo safe there for the present with a, lew mats thrown over the glass during severe frost. Jan. 4, 1879 ] THE GAKDEN. 15 Fansies. — These shonld be potted into their blooming pots early in the year, but this cannot be done unless the weather is fine. Soil should be prepared for them, and pots also should be in readi- ness. Panaies like a rich soil, and the best stimulant for them is rotten cow manure. Finks. — Daring frost these require no attention, except to see that rabbits cannot attack them. Mate any plants thrown out of the ground by frost firm, by pressing them into the soil with the fingers. Fhloxes, Pyrethruma, Fentstemons, and similar hardy plants in beds, require scarcely any attention daring winter. It is a good plan to place some dry manure on the surface of the beds, or a layer of leaves that have lain in a heap since autumn. It is as- tonishing how severe frosts may be kept out by a very slight pro- tection applied to the surface of the groand. — J. Douglas. Hardy Fruit. The late severe weather will have somewhat retarded operations in this department, and, therefore, some energy will be required as soon as a more favourable time sets in to bring up arrears of planting, pruning, nailing, dressing, and similar operations. In the meantime proceed with trenching, digging, draining, and soil carting, and so get the work forward as possible. If not previously done, Strawberry plantations should be " pointed " over, after which mulch them thickly with half-rotted stable manure. Of course, previous to the pointing remove all runners and decayed foliage, but avoid wanton destruction, for though some even recommend mowing off the old foliago the practice is not a good one. New Raspberry plantations may be made at any time between this time and the end of March, but the sooner the better, as such a plantation if well made will last for ten or twelve years. The ground should be deeply trenched aud heavily manured. I.e., if the nature of the soil demands it. A good loam, inclining to adhesiveness, requires but little manure, but in light, sandy soils Raspberries must be freely manured if good returns be desired. The pruning and tying of established plantations should be done as soon as possible, after which well stir the surface, but do not dig it, and mulch with the best manure at command. In favonrable weather Peaches and Nectarines should all be untied or unnailed as the case may be, and after carefully cutting out the long naked branches and superfluous shoots, well wash them with soap-suds, which is best done by means of the garden engine. If the trees, during the past season, have been badly infested with aphides, the most effectual preventive is to have the whole painted with a solution of Gishnrst Compound, according to the directions accompanying the same. Apricots are rarely subject to the attacks of aphides or other insects ; still, as prevention is better than cure, as soon as pruning and nailing are completed let these also have a thorough washing with soap.suds. Oar trees a season or two ago were badly attacked with soft brown scale, which was entirely annihilated by means of the washing here recommended. Cherries, Morellos in particular, are very subject to the attacks of black aphis, and, therefore, strong measures should be taken to ward off such attacks; winter dressing of both walls and trees is, in such a case, imperative. Orchard trees, consisting of Apples, Pears, Plums, &c., may be greatly invigorated by judiciously thinning out any branches that cross or chafe each other, freeing them from Moss and Lichen by dressing them with quicklime or brine. As such work as this can be done in weather, so to speak, when nothing else can be done, any negligence in respect to it is unpardonable. Any trees that are old and worn out should in hard weather be grubbed up and the ground trenched preparatory to planting as soon as favourable weather arrives. Trees that are to be regrafted in March or April had best be headed down at once. All prunings and grubbed-up wood not required for fuel should be converted into wood ashes, which is an excellent manure for all kinds of frnit trees, and, indeed, for almost everything else. If a new orchard is to be formed, the first matter to be considered is in reference to draining it effectually, and this done the whole should be deeply trenched ; or, should this be thought too expensive, the proposed distances at which the trees should stand apart shonld be marked out, and a space trenched for each tree, which space ought not to be less than 8 ft. in diameter. Kitchen Garden. Trenching and digging will doubtless have fallen into arrear, acd if BO these operations should be advanced as soon as favourable weather arrives. Advantage should be taken of hard frost to get all wheeling and carting completed, and also to get manure and vege- table refuse heaps turned over. Leaf carting and clearing up should also receive attention, and hotbeds should be made up preparatory to advancing sundry crops, such as Carrots, Radishes, Potatoes, Peas, and French Beans. Early Broccoli not protected during the lato severe weather will, doubtless, be found to be greatly injured, but late kinds have all escaped ; still, it will be advisable in the event of another such a period setting in to protect them with bracken or long litter, and the same remark applies to Celery. Globe Artichokes, where not covered with protecting material at their base, will cer. tainly be killed ; some that were not covered have all but disappeared, but those mulched with long stable litter are safe. It will, however, be well to prepare for losses by making a sowing at once, and as soon as they are well up pot and grow them on in gentle heat, finally planting them out at the end of May. Plants so treated will yield a few fine heads in autumn. Having had complaints as to the tough, neas of Beetroot this season, it was all left in the ground and taken up as required, and the difference to the palate is certainly remark- able, and will lead to our always leaving it in the ground in future during winter, and covering it with bracken. Where there are not frames for the purpose Endive, Lettuces, and Parsley will also require a little protection, and nothing is more handy, neat, or effective than a few straw hurdles or roofing felt tacked to a light framework of wood made of convenient size for moving from place to place. These, supported by inverted flower pots or bricks, not only keep off snow, but many degrees of frost. On the first favourable opportunity a sowing of early Peas should be made; Ringleader and William I. are the two best varieties for this sowing. A southern aspect, sheltered from north and east winds, should, if possible, beselected for them. As soon as they are through the ground they will require protection against the depredations of f parrows, for once the latter get a taste of them, they clear a largo (|!iarter of them in a day or two. The best protections are wire guards, but where these cannot be had, stake the rows thickly with short, sprayey sticks, which will serve to protect them both from sparrows and cutting winds. A small planting of Early Long-pod Beans should also now be made on a warm border, for we find that the earlier these can be had the more they are prized, while, on tho contrary, after other vegetables become plentiful they are but littlo appreciated. Decaying vegetable matter should in all cases, after a thaw, be forthwith cleared away to the manure heap, when, if thrown together and sprinkled with quicklime, it soon becomes a valuablo fertiliser, and perfectly inodorous. In order to make some amends for the comparative barrenness of the garden at this season, let all walks aud paths be kept in good order, aud endeavour to maintain neattess everywhere. — W. W. Fublic Farks and Open Spaces. A few words as to what should be done in these during January may not beoutof place. If the frost be not too severe, the digging of borders and plantations should be finished without delay, and in so doing, care must be taken that the roots of trees and shrubs are not injured ; for such work no implembut is better than a four-tined steel fork. Many object to disturb the soil after trees and shrubs have become well established, but, from long experience, I have come to the conclusion that this is necessary work in populous towns, where the surface becomes coated with deleterious matters, rendering it impervious to air. In carrying out this work, all dead and useless wood should be removed, and where trees and shrubs are too much crowded, it is necessary to thin out and transplant, or take them out altogether. Great care must be exercised in this matter, as the appearance of plantations and shrubberies much depends upon tho manner in which it is done. It will also afford a good opportunity for planting trees and shrubs which may be required for filling up blanks. All young trees should be firmly re. staked, and where her- baceous plants occupy borders round plantations, dead and decaying shoots and leaves must be removed, and the protection be given necessary to preserve the roots and crowns from frost. This may be tan, Cocoa-nnt fibre, ashes, or similar materials. Trees and shrubs requiring it may be mulched with advantage. This is, likewise, tho season for forming new plantations, should the weather permit. Lawns or Grass plots do not require much attention, except where they are in very bad condition, and where they require levelling, re- turfing, draining, &c, of course much of this work depends upon the severity, or otherwise, of the weather ; if favourable, however, no better time can be chosen for the purpose than the month of January. Lawns improperly drained are never satisfactory. Drain pipes should be placed in rows at from 15 ft. to 6 ) ft. apart, and at a depth of from 2 ft. to 6 ft., according to the nature of the subsoil, and with sufficient fall to ensure the water being carried off with rapidity. 6 in. or 1 ft. of brick rubbish, faggot wood, or, in fact, any kind of porous rubble, may, with advantage, be placed upon the pipes before filling in the trench, and shonld any subsidence occur hereafter, it must be rectified in the ordinary way, by lifting the turf and adding soil. Where breeze or ashes are easily obtainable, 1 ft. in thickness placed upon the ground, about 16 THE GARDEN. Jan. 4. 1S79. 6 in. or 1 ft. beneath the level of the turf, will greatly improve itg textare, appearance, and elasticity. Barnt ballast (barnt clay) will answer the same parpose, and is easily and cheaply made where clay is abundant. If the weather permits. Grass plots m^y also be cleaned by cutting out rou^h Grasses, uprooting Dindelions, Diiaies, and other weeds. This, if done carefully, will cause no injury to the turf. Surface. dresaing, which may consist of well-rotted niinnre, road drift, or artificial materials, should be spread upon Grass which is in bad condition in consequence of the poorness of the soil, or other causes, and will much improve it. Roads aud walks, where made of gravel, must be kept in good condition by frequent rolling, and all channels, gnllie?, and drains should be thoroughly cleared out, in order that no water may accnmnlate which would render them unfit for ordinary wear and tear. January is one of the best months for re.metalling roads, or forming new ones, en account of the moist state of the materials, a condition which assists in binding them together. The best kind of stone for the purpose is either broken granite or flints. la re-metalling roads the surface should ht broken up 2 in. or 3 in. deep, and from 3 in. to 6 in. of stone should be spread evenly over the whole surface; when this has been well rolled, 2 in. to 3 in. of fine gravel should be put upon the stone, and thoroughly watered and rolled. In forming new roads, after sufficient soil has been excavated to allow of from 15 in. to 18 in. of materials, and the drains laid, from 9 in. to 1 ft. of chalk, or brick rubbish, should be laid down, levelled, and rolled ; then proceed as before to form the surface. Roads made according to these instructions will prove most durable carriage ways. — C. Den>'is, Souihu-arli Park. Woodland Work for January. Those who have hitherto been in the habit of delaying all planting up of their woodlands until the winter is far advanced will have learned a salutary lesson from the enforced suspension of their opera- tions, which tOL.k place early in December. We have for years per. sistently advocated the late summer or early autumn removal of evergreens, and the completion of the transplanting of deciduous trees by the end cf November, and the rapid advance which such early removed trees make in the spring, in consequence of the roots having become turgid with the accumulated moisture, and the root, lets having made a considerable start before winter set in, ought to convince the most sceptical of the advantages of the system. The unusually severe weather which has set in while the land was satu. rated must toll severely upon young trees which had been just removed from warm nursery quarters. Though January is not a desirable month for continuing the work, on account of the frequent sudden changes of the weather, yet where a large breadth of wood, land has to be filled up, the forester must avail himself of every open period for planting; he should now select the diier portions, reserving the wetter parts for operating upon in February and March. Excellent opportunities have already been afforded for the removal of felled timber, which should now be, to a great extent, cleared off. Thinning should still be continued, but, at the same time, it should be remembered that neglected or overcrowded plantations may be- come permanently injured by too great a clearance or too sudden an exposure at this season of the year. The operation of thinning, like that of pruning, should be gradual, and both require the exercise of much sound judgment. Whoever undertakes the task while ignorant of the fundamental principles of vegetable physiology, must work in a twilight of uncertainty ; and though sound common sense may prevent his doing any great amount of mischief, he will fail to accom- plish the amount of good he might do if familiar with the principles of his operations. In executing thinnings of plantations, the prin. cipal consideration should be the permanent good of the standing timber, as, compared with this, the market value of what is cut down is unimportant. Thinning must be regulated by the closeness of the original planting as well as by the age and size of the trees, the quality of the soil, the amount of shelter or exposure, and the nlti. mate object of the plantations. Whoever plants thickly mmt thin early and frequently, or else fail to obtain the maximum amount of profit from his woodlands. It is impossible to specify any limit for the distance of standarJ^ which shall be applicable to all trees ; much must depend upon soi' and climate. Where the production of timber alone is the principal consideration, the preservation of an unbroken leaf canopy will insure the tallest trees and the cleanest timber ; but where it is deemed desirable to cultivate a considerable proportion of stron-' and healthy underwood, the standard trees should not occupy more than from one.third to one-half of the entire wooded area. Even in close plantations trees should never be allowed to overhano' or whip each other. Firs and Pines may stand much thicker thau'deoidaous trees, and during the earlier years of their growth they require much less thinning; indeed, it is seldom necessary to thin a plantation of Scotch Pine until it is nine or ten years old. In situations where the deciduous trees require to be thinned ont at intervals of from 25 ft. to 30 ft. at the age of forty years, resinous kinds may stand at little more than half that distance— say, from 15 ft. to 18 ft. In order to obtain sound timber no branches should be allowed to die back close to the bole. The process of natural pruning, by which the upper branches gradually destroy the lower ones by excluding Bunlijiht and air may conduce to the production of the greatest amount of rough timber and fuel ; but the largest yield of lengthy, clean, straight-growu, sound, and valuable timber is obtained by timely and continued attention on the part of the forester. Great care is ce. cessary in the thinning and pruning of belts or narrow strips of plan, tation. If allowed to remain too thick the slender, drawn-np stems fail to produce the screen or shelter which was the object of the planter. Here an admixture of underwood will prove serviceable, and sometimes it may be found necessary even to pollard a tew trees upon the margins in order to obtain the required density. Continue to collect cones of the Larch, Scotch Pine, and Spruce Fir; those of the Larch in particular require to be well dried before b^ing laid up in heaps. Towards the end of the month plant the remaining Acorns and Chestnuts, and in dry weather undercut the tap roots of two years' seedling Walnut, Oak, Chestnut, and Beech which are not to be transplanted ; after cutting tread the soil well in around the plants. The seeds of Yew, Holly, Hawthorn, and Jloun. tain Ash may also be taken from the pits and sown in open ground if the weather will admit. Wherever it may still be thought desirable to p'ant ont single trees, either in the park or in the hedgerows, select strong and well-furnished plants which have become fitted for these positions by standing in fairly open nursery beds. Hawthorns may be planted out for hedges, and old hedges cut off and plashed. Collect leaves from ditches, soourings of watercourses, and refuse soil of all kinds for making composts. Where trees have been oat off by the saw the work of grubbing and cording up the wood may now go on ; though tonite is now coming into use for such operations, the work of the mattock and the beetle and wedges is not yet at an end. The cutting up or cleaving of a tree butt may, to the uninitiated, appear a simple operation, but we often see an athletic man wasting his strength while a less powerful but more expert man does the work with ease ; the line of natural cleavage is from the heart or pith of the tree to the centre of each large root or spur, and, by inserting the wedges along this line, the stoutest butt is soon split up into segments, and these, in their turn, may be further reduced by taking off slivers in the direction of the annual riugs. — A. J. BUKROWS. Fruit Trees in Kitchen Gardsns.— It is well known that the art of maintaining a plentiful and regular supply of vegetables is one of the most important parts of practical horticulture. In the generality of private establishments, slight deficiences in the fruit or flower department may be passed over, but the supply of vege- tables must be kept up. Even in good soils, and with plenty of space at command, vegetable culture is by no means easy work, a great deal of judgment being frequently required to contend suc- cessfully with the variable and trying seasons so often experienced. Such being the case, and the importance of this branch of gardening being fully recognised, it is a matter of surprise that the owners of gardens should so often fail to afford sufficient facilities for carrying out the work with satisfaction to themselves, and credit to the person in charge. Oae of the most common complaints that one hears is, that the space devoted to vegetables is too limited, and a considerable amount of ingenuity has to be exercised to supply the wants of the household. Not only is this the case, but the kitchen garden is often so crowded with fruit trees, that a great portion of it is rendered almost useless for vegetable culture. Whilst the trees are young they are not much in the way, bat year by year they encroach upon aud shade the ground, and it is found aloiost impossible to keep up either the quantity or quality of the vegetable crops. When there is plenty of land, I consider planting fruit trees in a walled-in garden a mistake ; it not only cripples the vegetable supply, but the fruit crop is apt to be deficient. Many instances have come under my notice, where the standard Apple and other fruit trees were crowded into the vegetable ground, when there was an abundance of good soil in the immediate vicinity occupied by ordinary farm cropi or coppice wood, where fruit would have flourished better in every way. — J. Coknhill, Biijlcoi. Crocus spaciosus.-^This has continued to flower freely at Tooting all through the severe weather, and a good display of it will shortly be found where the soil is light and well drained. — S. Jax. 4, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 17 NEW OR RARE PLANTS. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. m- i^'- 'ii^ "'vW'y. ,<.'■■ - ^^ .^% y?-'s/y>; yrfg:? »^» oS&« A MINIATURE TREE FERN. (ATHYRIUM SCANDICINCM). This beautiful little Tree Fern is a native of the Sandwich Islands, and was introduced from California into this country by Mr. Williams, junior, and it has been exhibited by Kr. B. 8. Will'aras under the provisional name of Alsophila pluraosa. By some botanists it is associated with A. aspidioides, a vari- able species having a wide i-ange iu Tropical America, South Africa.and India. Perhaps this is a correct view,for the different specimens wo have seen of A. scandicinum,from the Sandwich Islands, differ more from each _,.,.. other than they do from some of the specimens of A. aspidioi- des from other regions. Be that as it may, there are several va- rieties suffici- e n 1 1 y distinct from each other to deserve cul- tivation. Like the Lady Fern, to which the present species is closely allied, A. scandiciuum varies very much in the degree of fine- ness of the cut- t i n g of the frond, and in the relative de- velopment o f the stem. The variety before us is a L a d y Fern, with fine- ly-cut fronds and a short, stout t r u n k ; indeed, we might justly call it the Tree Lady Fern. Its email size, as a Tree Fern, com- bined with the grace and ele- gance of its foli- age.renders this one of the most attractive of recent acquisi- tions i nafamily 60 rich in beau- tiful forms, and FORCING SEAKALE AND RHUBARB. By the present system of forcing these two esculents, all un- certainty as regards production is done away with ; and now we almost know to a day when we can cut, whatever the state of the weather may bo. So accomodating, indeed, are Seakale and Rhubarb as to admit of being dug up bodily and forced in any hole or corner where there is waste heat ; but the best place of all is a Mushroom house, and any one who has a struc- ture of this kind may have them in prime order and with great regularity the whole winter through. In the genial, sweet atmosphere »rf Sit •■= S^. S' 'J ^-^m^: ■'r^' Wi^. ■vii^ 'WM"" .A. 'Mi s^ A Miniatare Tree Fern. in which there is so much variety. W. B. Heuslev. that there pre- vails, they al- ways come free from taint, and are invariably tender, rich, and succuleut. The only time when there is any de- viation from this is when more is put in at onetime than there is use for, and it, in con- sequence, re- mains long un- cut, when it be- comes stringy and tough, which no amount of boil- ing or good ma- nagement in the k i t ch en will rectify. This, of course, only applies to Sea- kale, as age and length of stalk little affects Rhubarb, e x - cept in a favour- a b 1 e w a y, by rendering it more solid and less watery, and, therefore, of su- perior quality altogether than could otherwise be expected. In places where there is not the convenience of a Mu shroom Louse, and there is any back wall warmed by a enclose a space soil, so as to Baptisia (False Indigo). — Tall and stout herbaceous peren- nials, with ornamental leaves and fine long spikes of handsome, blue. Lupin-like flowers. Being among the most hardy and vigorous perennials, they will thrive well in almost any position in woods and copses, and well-grown tufts of them would look to great advantage near wood walks. They grow well in almost any soil. The species are North American — the best cultivated kinds being B. australis and B. tinctoria, which inhabit dry and alluvial soils (as distinguished from boggy places) in the United States. In England they thrive on moist or clayey soils as well as on those of a more open nature. — V. boiler chimney or flue, a good way is to with bricks, and line them up round with form a sort of pit, over which a shutter can be fitted, and then cover the roots over with straw to exclude light and prevent the heat from escaping. Thus circumstanced, both these esculents grow beautifully, and require no attention beyond an occasional watering to keep the earth about the roots moist, as any vapour that escapes surcharges the internal air and maintains it in a healthy condition. If the pit is large enough to admit of a few fresh roots being put in every fortnight or so till others can be got out and replaced, a constant succession may be kept up till they can be had from the open ground. Another capital plan of forcing Seakale is to'get a'very large flower-pot, and pack into it as many roots as it will hold. 18 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 4, 1879. with a fair quantity of light rich soil between them, and then plunge it in a bed of leaves, or other gently-fermenting material, with another pot of the same dimensions turned over it, when, if this is again'covered with litter, some splendid heads may soon be had. In digging the roots of Seakale up, those with the largest and best-developed crowns should be chosen, and the same with Rhubarb, for, unless the plants have been well grown, what they yield must of necessity be meagre and poor, as all depends on their strength at the time of starting, and the amount of organisable matter they have stored up iu their stems. One great advantage in forcing these vegetables in this way is that, unlike Asparagus, the plants of which are spoiled for ever after, aud have to be discarded, Seakale and Rhubarb are none the worse after a season's rest and fresh growth, as they may then be taken up and used for the same purpose again. Instead, however, of planting the old, thick portions of the stems of the Kale, I prefer the large and tough roots, numerous pieces of which break off at the time of digging them up, or may be saved after the forcing is over. These cut into lengths of 4 in. or 5 iu. or so form excellent sets and start away vigorously in spring as soon as warm weather sets in. When preparing these for planting. I always make a practice of cutting the lower end sloping and the top flat, otherwise, so near are they alike as regards size that it is impossible to distinguish between the two, and they would most likely, therefore, be planted the wrong way upwards. These sets or cuttings may be made and dibbled out in rows at any time, but it is quite as well to bury the whole in moist sand or ashes as tbey come to hand till the whole is ready, and then put them out. This should be done in ground that has been trenched and thoroughly enriched with well-rotted manure, as Seakale is naturally a gross-feeding plant, and likes to pene- trate deeply in search of moisture. Salt, added to the manure or sown over the ground in May or June, is a capital help, as it not only acts as a suitable stimu- lant, but destroys seed weeds, and thus saves time and labour in hoeing. The proper distance for the rows is about 15 iu. apart, and 1 ft. from plant to plant, which affords sufficient room for a full spread of the leaves and admits of their full development, which would not be the case were they nearer together. For permanent beds, where the heads are covered with pots or are blanched in any other way, the rows should be at least 2 ft. apart, and the plants placed triangularly about 9 in. from each other down the rows, so that each clump of three has a space of 18 in. between. I find a very good way of getting fine late Seakale is to cover the whole bed during winter.with long stable litter, under which the heads come on slowly and beautifully white, as well as being very tender and succulent. Besides being propagated and increased by means of cuttings of roots made in the above-named manner, Seakale grows readily from seed ; but plants so raised, unless under exceptionally favourable circumstances, take two years before they are large enough for forcing, whereas the others are quite strong enough in half that time. To get large crowns of Rhubarb, it is a good plan to dig large holes and work a quan- tity of 'manure m the bottom before planting, adding more when filling in the soil around the sides, and if, in addition to this, sewage be given occasionally during the summer, growth will be most rapid and vigorous. What is required for forcing should not have any pulled from it, unless it be a few sticks early in the season, as the loss of every leaf decreases the plant's strength and capabilities for the following season. S. D. Winter-SDwn Peas. — My experience ot Pea sowing does not agree with that of Mr. Legga (p. 530), although I must say, at the outset, that seasons, aud soils, aud aituatioua have a great deal to do with late-aown Peas ; but I believe that in nine cases out of ten (and the same as regards seasons) Peas sown some time in January, all points considered, are to be preferred to those sown in the autumn. When I was in Buckinghamshire we used to sow in the end of Octo- ber or beginning of November, on a south border, and again in January, but when the picking time arrived only two or three days were gained by autumn sowing, and the crop was not so heavy as that on the January sowing. Some of the rows were very much injured by slugs and other causes to which antumn-sown Peas are so liable. In 1874 I was in Doraetabire, on the seacoast, twenty milea from Weymouth. There I sowed January 15 and again early in February, and the result was no difference between the two sowings. A neighbour, who sowed in December and again in February, had only an advance of a day in favour oE his plan. Last season I sowed here (North Hampshire) Dickson's Firat and Best and Lar- ton's Alpha in the open border, and alao some in scrips ot tuif for planting out on January 18 and again early in February in the open border. Those sown on turf were put into a Vinery and then har. dened off in a cold pit, and from these I gathered May 28. Those sown in January and February in open borders yielded usable pods on Juno 3, there being no difference between the two sowings. When in Dorset and Norfolk my experience was much the same. The earliest time I ever remember to have seen Peas gathered from that were sown in the open ground was on May 17 or 18, and thia was at Haywood House, Westbury, Wiltshire, some few years ago ; however, this ia undoubtsdly not so early as they are in warmer localitiea. My experience is unfavourable to Kentiah Inviota; I have grown it two or three times, but I did not find it a sort to which I could trust. It rotted in the ground when sown before the middle of February, and it is not so good a cropper as many other sorts. No Pea have I ever had as an early one to beat Dickson's First and Best. — J. C. F. SITES FOR KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDENS. As a well-designed whole is always better and more satisfactory than fragmentary work can ever be, so, in selecting the aite for a gentle, man's residence, not only the mansion itself, but also the whole ot the appurtenances belonging thereto, should be taken into oonaidera- tion, and duly marked out on the plan, with special reference not only to the relations they bear to each other, but also that each may occupy the most favourable position for aeouring the objects for which it was intended. Now, the kitchen and fruit gardens certainly form noinconaiderable part of what may be termed the necesaary adjuncts of a first-clasa establishment; and there are several mattera in con- nection therewith that come more especially within the province of the practical gardener, and which I know to be often overlooked by the architect or landscape gardener. These are mainly shelter, soil, aspect, and elevation. It ia no uncommon occurrence to find ex- pensively-constructed gardens dropped into some hollow, as if the main object had been to get them out ot sight ; or, it may be, the extra depth ot alluvial soil in the bottom ot the valley had proved an irresistible temptation. No doubt depth ot soil ia an important matter, and forms one ot the constant aims ot the practical cultivator ; bat the bottom lands in the valleys are well known to be several degrees colder than the sloping hillsides. The cold togs are carried down by their own weight and the moving force ot currents of air till they reach the lowest points, where they chill and freeze everything at all tender. Thia ia more especially noticeable in spring and autumn, as every competent observer may easily ascertain for himself. In such positions it is next to impossible to obtain good crops of fruit or early vegetables, tor the hoar frost destroys the tender blossoms of the one, and checks and blackens all tender growths ot the others. The difference ot a few feet in the elevation of a garden or orchard has a wonderful influence in thia respect. The crops ot fruit aud early vegetables in one garden may be ruined by spring frost, whilst another in the same neighbourhood, but situated at a slightly higher level, may escape altogether ; and this tact alone will account for much of the variation that is constantly occurring iu English fruit gardens. In low-lying gardens, too, there ia often a difBcalty in securing an outfall for the drainage ; and even if the laud be natur- ally dry, there are stoke-holes, fruit borders, walks, and other points that must be laid dry, and for which a good drainage outfall is necessary, or they will be an endless source of trouble. The beat aite for kitchen aud fruit gardens is on the aite of a eentlo slope, where the inclination does not exceed 1 in 20, and preferably less. A southern aspect ia beat, but a point or two either east or west will not matter. It may be an advantage to have the shelter of hills to east and west as well aa north, but auch favourable positiona are not often met with, and it is ot but little importance, as, unless the culinary gardens are placed at a considerable distance from the mansion, it will be necessary to plant screens and shelters of trees aud shrubs to blind them. 'Though a well. managed kitchen garden is at all times an interesting study, yet there are objeotious to its being placed in too oonapiououa a situation, at least so far as regards its worst features ; such, for instance, as the backs ot sheda or offices being visible from any window or any part ot the grounds. But this is a detail thin can be easily arranged without creating an eyesore. The shelter belts or screens should not be placed too near, it any. thing beside shrubs are used, as, in the winter especially, they may give too much shade and prevent the land drying properly. The most important mattera next to aspect are elevation and soil, as shelter can easily be secured by raising plantations, and these are Jan. 4, 1870 J THE GAKDEN. 19 generally neoeaeary for other reasona. la large establiahmenta the kitchen gardens are often placed a conaiderable diatance from the mansion and private grounds, but this adds a good deal to the expense of keeping. There is a great loaa of time in moving plants, manures, &o., from one department to the other, and I cannot see, it the depart- ments are ao aeparated, that there ia any correaponding advantage ; there should be no difEcalty in hiding any feature that may be objec- tionable, and the kitchen gardena may be —indeed, ought to be — a pleasant sheltered promenade at all seasons of the year. To a mind capable of being roused to a study of such matters, there are many intareating featurea in the cropping and management of a kitchen garden ; and aa regards fruit growing, either under glaaa or in the open air, there ia always something to attract attention. In the winter there ia the pruning and training to be seen to ; and when the trees are bare, the dilierent styles of growth of the various kinds of fruit treea are brought out more prominently, revealing the fact that, like human beings, it ia difficult to find two in all respects alike. And aa the days lengthen, and the buds begin to swell and unfold in succession, how absorbing the interest becomes ; and it continues to increase, and only calminatea when the treaanres are gathered in and stored away, in autumn. I am sorry for those people who are anxious to hide up and place out of sight altogether the culinary department, because they lose a most interesting subject for study. There has been a tendency during the last quarter of a century to place fruit and vegetable growing in the background. I think scarcely anyone who knows what gardening waa at the period to which I have referred, and has watched ita growth since, will deny that such growth has been mainly in ornamental gardening and in the glass erections which the style adopted haa rendered necessary. There is scarcely one place in ten at the present time where the kitchen gardens are not starved, both in labour and manure, in order to keep up the expensive show in the ornamental department. This would not continue if employers took a greater interest in fruit and vegetable growing; and no doubt by-and-by things will right themselves again. Assnmicg that the residence with its buildings occupies the crest of an eminence, the kitchen and fruit gardens might be appropriately placed on one of the flanks, sheltered and surrounded where necessary hy belts and groups of trees and shrubs, and among whose aheltering folds might be found excellent positions for groupa and plantations of choice fruit trees. Arranged in this way, the whole south front would be open to be treated in any manner most in accordance with the character of the building, or most agreeable to the wishes of the owner. The aiz3 of the kitchen garden must depend in some measure upon the demand that is likely to be made upon it ; but very large gardens in these days of dear labour are, I think, a mistake, at least 80 far a3 regards the walled inclosures. No doubt an extensive system of walled inclosures gives a large extent of surface for train, ing wall trees, aa well aa a variety of climatea in their different aspects, that are not without their uses. Bat I think the time will come when fruit-growing, as regards the choicer kinda at least, will be carried on more under glass, and then fewer walls will be required ; and, as all the coarser kinds of vegetables can be better and more cheaply grown outside the garden walls, the walled. in apace may be much curtailed, and reserved for early vegetables, salads, and such like. The aides of the paths may be utilised, aa at i resent, for Pears and Apples or other fruits on espaliers ; but fruits and vegetables do not agree well together on the same plot. I have seen in Worcestershire and elsewhere good cropa of Applea grown in the CjrnSelds, where the plough ia used almost close to the trunks of the trees ; but the rows of Apple tresa are at wide intervals apart, and the plough does not stir up the soil so deeply as the spade. Surface culture under large spreading trees, I believe, is beuefioial ; but then such treea have obtained a firm grasp of the soil, and, what ia more, the soil for aeveral feet in depth is not inimical to their well-doing. But on land under spade culture, if fruits and vegetables are mixed, it is generally at the expense of both. The plan that appears to me to offer the best chance of coping suooesafully with the altered atate of thinga which we must expect in the future, is to build a few roomy span. roofed houses, to make sure of a crop of the choicer kinds of fruits ; to have a much smaller walled-in space, and to devote that mainly to trained fruit trees, early vegetables, and salads ; whilst the bulk of all vegetables crops should be grown entirely outside the garden walls. It is not easy to form an estimate aa to the space required to grow fruit and vegetables for a given number of peraona, as the requirements of different eatabliahments vary con. siderably ; but to supply well, all the year round, an establishment of (including servants) twenty-four to thirty persons, allowing at the same time for visitors and the customary parties being given, will require about five acres of good land. Supposing the family have two country reaidencea (which ia a common occurrence), then about three acres at each would suffice. The best form for the walled garden is for the north of the kingdom an oblong parallelogram, with the longest faces pointing to the south and north, for the purpoae of securing a greater extent of south wall. In the aouth a aquare garden will be more suitable, as good fruit can be grown on eastern or western aspects, and an unusual length of south wall is less sought for or required. One of the moat important mattera in connection with vegetable and fruit growing, if all things are to be well done, ia a good supply of pond or soft water. For some reason hard to dis- cover, thia want has not had ao much attention given to it aa ita importance deaerves ; and when the site for the gardens is chosen it should be borne in mind, as any arrangements it may be neceasary to make, to secure a good aupply of this indispensable fluid, will be more economically carried out then than afterwards. — " Field." AFTER THE FROST. TnosE who, like myself, are growers of hardy plants, both in pots and in the open ground, will have cause to look after their planla now that thaw has followed severe frost. In my cold house, and also in my outdoor frame, the possibility of frost coming at Christ- mas or thereabouts had been considered. All hardy Primulas in pots, Auriculas, Polyanthuaea, Primroaes, and the representatives of various speciea, also Christmas Roses, Pinka, &o., had been allowed to become pretty dry, and when the frost came there was but little moiature in the aoil for it to fasten upon. The great danger of frost laying hold of the aoil in pots, consists in this, that when it is pretty moist, the expansion caused by frost will crack the pots, hence the importance o£ the soil being as dry aa posasble when it threatens. Hy cold house haa a north oapect, and there waa an additional reaaon for avoiding a superabundance of moisture. The firat night of the sharp frost everything was frozen, and newspapers were carefully laid over the plants two or three thick, but the plants, the papers, the glass, and raftera, were all encased with hoar frost. The papers were left on the pots till the thaw bad passed through the house, to keep the drip from the melting hoar frost from falling oa the plants. Quite small plants of some delicate-growing Auriculaa are unharmed. The only sufferers have been the greenfly here and there ; all the life has gone out of them. I have gone over the plants, picking off the decayed foliage, pressing down the soil about the roots, and giving a little water where necessary, but taking care to thoroughly soak the aoil of plants that are quite dry. It is surprising how fresh and well they look after being gone over and touched up in this way. The fear ia that if this mild, close, moist weather continuea, aome of the Primulaceaj, and especially the Auriculas, will become preternatu- rally active. The time for moving will soon be here, but I shall be in no haste to witness it. It ia an old aaying that " the ice that will bear a goose before Christmas will not bear a duck afterwards ; " but there may be an abundance of skating yet, and premature activity in plants brings no gladness to the heart of the florist. Oa a raised ash bed in front of my cold house are Polyanthuses, Aquilegias, Anemones, and many species of Primulas, &c., in pots, and it was a matter of considerable anxiety that the frost would do harm here. As soon as there were indications of ita being severe, light strips of wood reaching higher than the points of the foliage, were laid on the rims of the pota and over theae a covering of old newapapera, and upon theae garden mats and old pieces of aacking. Then came the anew and added to the covering, and though the froat penetrated through to the aoil of the plants, it waa felt the covering had averted ita effects. Thia coveiing waa kept on for more than a week, and when the time came to uncover, not a single pot was broken. It was necessary in many cases to litter the aoil about the plants, and the soft rain which fell subsequently, has decidedly re- freshed them. Not a iingle loss haa occurred ao far aa can be ascertained at present. Beds of Auriculas, Polyanthuses, and other plants in the open ground, not having the advantage of covering have had the aoil much looaened, but a gentle preaaure soon reatores the plants to their proper positions. About the middle of December the beds were well top-dressed with a mixture of leaves and ashes from a burnt heap of refuse. The leaves lying roughly on the surface formed guards from the cold, and the plants appeared to nestle among them aa if feeling quite secure. There is nothing like a good top- dressing of thia kind in autumn. It is an excellent protection during winter, and in spring it mingles with the aurfaoe soil and affords nu- triment for the plants. I never waste any house refuse of a vegetable character, and indeed everything that will rot or burn is utilised for the garden. It ia laid by in a heap, and when required charred till It ia fit to be uaed aa a top dressing. Times of severe frost are not with- out their naea to gardeners, though they have their attendant dia- comforts. A small heap of manure infested with worms and other insects was turned over two or three times during its continuance, and the birds and frost combined, have cleared it of insect life. 20 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 4, 1&79. GARDEN DESTROYERS. THE COMMON DARK MOTH OR TURNIP MOTH. (agkotis j,egetum.) This moth is very common, and is very generally distributed throughout the United Kingdom, and, in fact, over a large portion of the world, as it may be found in almost every part of the Continent, and is very abundant at the Cape of Good Hope. The caterpillars of this insect, as well as those of several nearly allied species, are generally known by gar- deners and farmers by the name of " the grub." This species is particularly troublesome both in the kitchen and flower gardens, as well as to certain farm crops, by feeding on the roots and leaves of various plants. Among its favourites are Auriculas, China Asters, Dahlias, Balsams, &c., and in the kitchen garden Cauliflowers and Cabbages of all kinds. Let- tuces, Spinach, Beeti-oot, Radishes, Turnips, &c. On farm land at times it does an immense amount of mischief to crops of grain of allkiuds.Mangold Wurzel, Swedes, and Turnips. These caterpillars generally begin by attacking a plant at the crown or a little below it, and do most damage among young plants, whose roots they eat right through. Di some seasons they appeal' tD continue at their work of destruction all the year round, in the winter feeding on the lower parts of the roots. There does not appear to be any way of destroying the eggs, which ai-e laid by the moth in the earth near the roots of plants ; but many are, no doubt, destroyed by various birds and beetles. As the caterpillars only feed at night, remain- ing under shelter during the day, it is not very easy to destroy them. Salt and water, in the proportion of 1 oz. of salt to a gallon oi water, has be >n found very efficacious, when C^!^ Agrotis (Xo.tua) scse'um. the plants have been well watered with this mixture, in pre- venting the caterpillars from attacking them. Soot laid thickly on the ground, dug in or placed round the roots, and then covered with earth, has been found to be very useful in keeping them away. One pound of soap mixed with sixteen gallons of water, applied warm to the roots until the neighbouring holes and cracks in the ground are full, will cause the caterpillars to come quickly to the surface, when they can easily be collected. Tobacco water would kill them if it could be applied so as to reach them. If in great numbers, search should be made under clods and stones, not only near the plants which are suffering, but round those which are not yet touched, for the caterpillars, and the plants may be .searched after dark with a lantern. Their natural enemies are numerous; moles, several kinds of beetles, and various bh-ds help to keep this pest in check. The rooks, perhaps, are their greatest foes, and, though they are often accused of doing much damage in gardens and fields to various crops, it will seldom or never be found that they destroy a plant which has not already been attacked by some insect ; on no account should these useful birds be scared from gardens. The moths are very difficult to find during the day- time, on account of their dull colour and their habit of remain- ing in some sheltered place until dark, when they may be found during the summer months flying about at times in great num- bers, the males being generally much more numerous than the females. The chrysalis may often be found when garden ground is being dug, and should always be destroyed. The moths make their appearance in June, and may be found during the summer, and as late as October. The females lay their eggs in July or August, choosing a position in some light earth near the plants which will afford food to the cater- pillars, which are hatched in ten or fifteen days, and they remain bidden during the day under clods and stones, or in holes whiih they form for themselves, 2 in. or 3 in. deep in the earth ; at night they emerge from their shelter, and carry on their work of destruction until dawn, when they again hide themselves. They can move at a surprisingly rapid rate, and as soon as the root of one plant is eaten through they are ofi to another. Ten or tweUe have been found at the root of one Turnip, and in France very great damage has frequently been done to crops of Beetroot. A few of the caterpillars become chrysalides in October, from which the moths appear iu a few days; but they mostly burrow 2 in. or 3 in. into the earth at the approach of winter, and live on the lower part of the roots of.various plants, or, forming an egg-shaped ball of earth round themselves in which they are sheltered from cold and damp, pass the winter in a torpid condition. Early in spring they reap- pear, and in May or June again descend into the ground and form a rough cell, in which they change into chrysalides, from which the perfect insects emerge iu about a month. The moths measure about li in. to 2 in. across their expanded wings. The males may be distinguished from the females by their lighter colour, the greater distinctness of their markings, and by their antennre, which are very finely toothed, whilst those Caterpillars o£ A^ro'.is segetum, of the female are smooth. The upper wings of the male vary in colour from pale greyish-brown to yellowish and reddish- brown. Those of the female are dark chocolate or reddish- brown, with the markings very much blended with the general colour. In both sexes there are two double wavy, transverse, blackish lines on the upper wings, between which, near the upper margin, are two spots, that nearest the base being sur- rounded by a lighter ring, and the other being somewhat ear- shaped and blackish. Near the outer margin is a very irregular dark double line. The lower wings of ihe male are pearly- white ; those of the female dirty white, with the margin darker. The thorax is of the same colour as the upper wings ; the body is greyish-brown, somewhat lighter towards the base. The caterpillars, when fully grown, are IJ in. to 2 in. in length, and have eight pairs of legs, the first three joints of the body being each furni«hed with a pair, as well as the sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, and last joints. The head and first joint of the body are horny, very smooth and shining, and brownish in colour ; the latter being marked with three paler lines. The eleven other joints are smooth, shining, and of a smoky yellow colour, the back being somewhat pinkish or purplish. There are three longitudinal pale stripes, bordered with a dark line on either Jak. 4, 1879.] THE GAKDEN. 21 side, one down the centre of the back, and one on each side, oE the caterpillar. On each joint are ten slightly-raised, darker spots, each bearing a hair; four are placed on the back, two in front (one on either side of the central lines), and two behind in the same position ; the others are placed three on each side, just above the feet, in the form of a triangle. The chrysalides are about 1 in. long, and are of a bright brown colour. S. G. S. THE GARDEN IN THE HOUSE. CULTURE OP PLANTS IN WINDOWS. There is no branch of gardening which embraces such a wide range as that relating to the culture and preservation in a healthy state of plants in dwelling houses. There are and always will be so many who have no frame or greenhouse, that the question of how to grow plants successfully in windows is necessarily of the greatest interest to them. Those who have even the convenience of a cold frame will, of course, find the task of decorating the dwelling much facilitated ; but, as I have said, there is unhappily a great portion of our popula- tion who not only are not provided with this simple ac- commodation, but whose garden is of the most fragmentary character. This is more especially the case in largo towns where windows in many parts form almost the whole avail- able space in which garden operations are conducted. There is, however, no reason for any one to despair of attaining suc- cess, for I have noticed that it is more from a want of know- ledge than from adverse circumstances that failures occur. Choice of Subjects for Cultivation. Formerly the choice of plants suitable for culture in rooms was somewhat restricted. Cactuses and various other kinds of succulents being mainly relied upon for that purpose. Now, thanks to the exertions of plant collectors and to tbe improve- ments which have been effected in many of our florists' flowers, we have an abundance of subjects from which to choose. It is almost impossible to give a list of plants suit- able for every one, as the conditions of air, light, warmth, and atmospheric humidity vary according to the situation and uses to which the rooms are put. For instance, a plant that would do perfectly well in an apartment that is not constantly occupied, where ventilation is somewhat freely given, and where artificial heat is but seldom applied, will linger and die where a fire is constantly kept and oil or gas is freely burnt. On the other hand, we shall find certain plants that can only be kept in health by placing them where they are screened from draught, and where the air is maintained at a certain temperature. The care which these two classes o? plants will require will necessarily be of an entirely different description, and it is just in this respect that the plant grower in windows will have to exercise judgment. As an illustration let ns take the Cyclamen, a b3autifal window plant, but one which will only succeed in a cool room ; con.' finement is certain death to it. An india-rubber plant, on the cont-iry, will thrive best if kept tolerably close, but it must re -eive certain attentions which the Cyclamen will not n'3ed. It will thus be seen how widely varied the treat- ment of room plants must be, and how necessary it will be to choose suitable subjects for each situation. Then, again, we 5nust take the aspect of each window into consideration. A Moss or a Fern will thrive admirably where a Fuchsia or a Pelargonium will give but little satisfaction. In most dwellings there are windows having different aspects ; all that is necessary, therefore, is to ascertain in which of them the desired plant will best thrive. The various types of vegetation, flowering and fine foliaged plants, &c , may be all represented, and the grower will thus be enabled to secure a series of plants, pictures, as it were, each one presenting distinct characteristics of its own. Whilst indicating a few of the plants best adapted for window gardening, I would advisa that growers should allow some scope to their individual likings, and make trial of those plants which they may have a lancy for. There is raucb yet to be accomplished in this branof' of g.ardening, and the pleasure and honour derived will be in proportion to the difS- culties surmounted. There are many plants now considered difficult of culture which probably only require to be better understood to render them amenable to room culture. For a confined atmosphere, such as an ordinary sitting-room, we must rely chiolly upon fine foliaged plants, those possessing leaves of a somewhat hard, leathery nature being the easiest to preserve in health. Ficus elastica and Cbauvieri, Aspidistra lurida and its variegated form, Dracteaa terminalis, congesta, and indivisa, Cordyline rubra, Chamffirops exoelsa, Livistona borbonica, Corypha australis. Maiden-hair, and other Ferns are amongst the best for such situations. For apartments that are but occasionally heated, Grevillea robusta, Acacia lophantha. Aspidistras, Chamajrops cxcelsa, Aralia trifoliataand reticulata. Cyclamens, Solanuras,' Primula sinensis and deuticulata, Violets, Mignonette, Troprejlum Iricolonim, and bulbs of all kinds may be grown. The plants enumerated are all suitable for winter and early spring. In summer we get a much greater variety. Pelargooiums, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Petunias, and all the various kinds of bedding plants will grow aud bloom ad- mirably in windows during the summer season. A very effective and gratifying display can be made by sowing different kinds of annuals in boxes made to fit and affi'ced to the outside ol' the window. Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas, Eschscholtzias, Mig- nonette, Phlox Drummondi, and such free-growing, persistent blooming plants when thus grown make a dwelling very pleasant to the eye. This method of floral decoration is not nearly so much adopted as it should be ; the cost of a bos or two and tbe necessary fittings, as well as the small amount of seed rer|uired to sow them, is very trifling, the cultural care, too, being of the simplest. Windows facing the north and oast are most suitable for boxes, inasmuch as they there get only the morning and afternoon sun, and, boiug shielded from the fierce noonday heat, the flowers last loncjor in perfection. For a northern aspect there is no more beautiful plant than the common Moneywort; when well grown it forms a drapery of lustrous green and bright yellow, such as is scarcely equalled by any other plant. In windows facing the north nothing will give more satisfaction than Ferns and Mosses, which, at all times lovely, acquire additional luxuriance and beauty in just those very places where most other plants refuse to flourish. Any of the following may bo selected, they being all of fairly easy culture : Asplenium bulbiferum, Adiantura Capillus Veneris, and cuneitum, IPteris erotica and scaberula.-Onychiura japonicum, Davallia Novaj Zealandia;, Niphotolus Lingua, and Selaginella denticulata. Succulent plants should not be omitted, as they afford variety, give but little trouble, and are re.ally inter- esting; they must, however, be grown where they get the full heat of the sun. Many of the old-fashioned plants, such as the Candle plant and the partridge-breasted Aloe are now but seldom seen. They are, however, very distinct in manner of growth, and deserve a little more attention than they now get. Vallota purpurea is a handsome, evergreen, bulbons-floweriug plant which anyone may grow. Campanula Barrelieri is a pretty little trailing plant suitable for a small basket. I once saw a beautifully flowered specimen of it hanging on the out- side of a window in a crowded part of London. Saxifraga sarmentosa and Cactus flabelliformis may be both employed in the same way; the one in a shady situation, the other in the full sun. The plants above enumerated may all be cultivated and kept in health in the dwelling-house. There are, of course, a great number which may be introduced for a time into apart- ments, but which cannot be retained therein without injury, but of these it is not my intention to treat. The owner of a glass house wiil, of course, not need to grow these plants in the windows of his residence. General Treatment. It will naturally be understood that cleanliness is of the first importance to plant life. Leaves breathe, as it were, through their pores, and if these be choked by impurities of any kind, the functions of the plant are in a manner paralysed. The more con- fined the atmosphere the greater need is there for frequently washing and syringing. All plain, hard-foliaged kinds should be well sponged,uaing plenty of clean tepid water. Ferns, Mosses, &o., may be gently but thoroughly syringed, taking care that the under surface oE the foliage is well cleaned. Insects oftea make their appearance, and must be kept under either by 22 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 18; 9. brushing them off with a soft brush or by moans of fumiga- tion. The latter is tbe most effective method, although if the stitch-in-time priuciple be acted upon and the first insects des- troyed, there will seldom be any need for it ; should a plant, however, become badly infested, place it under a tub and fill the same with Tobacco smoke. Two applications at the interval of a few days will generally sufiioe to clear them all off. When we come to watering we touch the most difficult part of our subject. It is utterly impossible to lay down hard and fast rules ; the attempt to do so would merely result in disastrous failure ; nothing but practice can give proficiency in this branch of plant culture. The great point to be kept in view is, that in winter water is merely required to maintain life, whereas in summer when the functions are active and growth progressing, enough must be given not only to supply waste, but to allow of the extension and formation of new tissues. Were these facts kept constantly iu mind, there would not be many disasters arise from over-watering. In dull, sunless weather let each plant dry out thoroughly, and then give just enough to well moisten the ball of earth. In a hot parching time this care is not so needful ; if the roots are healthy, and the plant growing freely, copious and frequent waterings must be the rule. These general rules will form a basis upon which the grower may safely work. They will, however, have to be varied and modified according to circumstances and the plants cultivated, but for the acquirement of this knowledge he must rely upon constant practice and unremitting attention. In the matter of ventilation be careful to avoid cutting draughts ; much harm is often done by inj udicious air giving. Do not either run into the common error of turning your plants out upon the doorsteps or balconies in weather which, although sunny, may yet be of a chilling nature. Harden gradually on the approach of spring by iucreasing the amount of air, and only turn them out-of-doors on mild, moist days. A safe rule is to be guided by one's own feelings ; if the atmosphere be congenial to the human frame it will be beneficial to plant life, and vice versa. That, at least, is the conclusiou at which I have arrived. Potting and Propagating. Many who grow window plants make a point of getting them shifted by a professional cultivator. This is, however, by no means necessary, and is wrong in principle, as the nature of a plant is but imperfectly understood if its root action cannot be observed. I would advise that the soil be purchased at a nur- seryman's, stating for what kind of plant it is required. Be careful never to give large shifts, and see that your soil is well sanded and not too rich ; any little deficiency in nutriment can easily be supplied by a top-dressing of any of the concentrated manures. For Ferns and delicate-rooted subjects allow plenty of drainage ; in fact, all kinds of plants grown in rooms should be amply provided for in this respect. Nothing can be more injurious than a stoppage of the drainage, and to secure immunity from inj ury in this respect, each plant should be examined at the commencement of the winter, and fresh drainage given, if found necessary, using some good clean potsherds or broken charcoal for that purpose. There is no reason why window gardeners should not try their hands at propagating ; it is amusing, and greater pleasure is derived from the culture of home-struck plants than from those which have to be bought. Most of the so-called soft-wooded plants may be increased with ease, and if a few cuttings be put in every year, they will supply the place of plants which get too large. The appliances necessary will consist merely of a few bell-glasses, some soil of a light description, and some silver sand. Fill the pots to within 2 in. of the rim with soil, and finish off with sand, making the pot quite full. The pot should be filled about one-third of its depth with drainage. The cuttings are inserted in the sand and kept covered with the bell-glass until rooted. Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Verbenas, Lobelias, &c., may all be struck in this manner in an ordinary living room. Pelargoniums only will need no covering. Put each cutting in a small pot ; it w ill root freely enough. Seeds . of annuals may also be raised by sowing in a pot filled to within 1 in. of the rim, and covered with a piece of glass until fairly up. I have here indicated comparatively little of what may be done in the way of window gardening, but enough, I think, to enable even Beginners to try the under- taking with a fair prospect of success. I trust that they may not be daunted by a few failures for, permit me to add, in this, as in every other branch of gardening, there is no royal road to success. John Corn hill. Byflect. THE FROST AND THE THAW. It is, probably, rather early to write positively as yet of the effects of either of these, but, as far as appears, the effects of the frost seem less disastrous than might have been expected from its great length and extreme severity ; and if vegetation has escaped with less injury than usaaljjthis has arisen from the mode of thawing rather than from any lack of severity in the freezing. It was a rain thaw, and no donbt that is the very best. The water relaxes, as it were, the hold of the frost in vegetable tiasuea, and draws the ice out grada- ally and gently without rupturing them. It is somewhat singular that vegetable tisanes, unlike water pipes or other mere mechanical tubes, seem to burst rather in the thawing than in the freezing. It is the suddenness of the former, rather than the severity of the latter, that seems to kill plants ; hence, partly at least, the greater deatruc. tiveness of spring than of winter frosts. No doubt the sap ia also more plentiful and more active in the spring, but it is probably the greater energy of the sun, and consequent rapidity of the thawing of vegetable tissues, that render apring frosts so exceedingly and excep. tionally destructive. Be this as it may, it ia pleasing to note that the severe frost seems to have passed away without any very serious injury. Even the Laurustinua, generally the first to be browned or killed here, seems to have escaped, and looks aa if the full head of bloom even would still expand. This comparative immunity from injury as regards shrubs and plants could hardly, I should think, arise from the amount of snow that has scarcely sufficed to cover them. Possibly, however, the unusual amount of hoar frost might have helped to keep the plants warm. I never remember seeing ao much hoar frost for so long a time as this winter. D. T. Fish. Sanhoicke House, Bury St. Edmunds, A correspondent writes : — "The three weeks frost broke up a few hours ago. The thermometer, for something like that period, has indicated many degrees of frost. The ice in our ponds and canals was 10 in. thick, and our pumps and water-works pipes were frozen. To-day (Deo. 28) I have walked round my garden, very care- fully, for there is still ice like glass two or three inches thick on the paths. I expected to lament many favourites destroyed, but I find my new Strawberry beds green as emerald j Couve Tronchnda and Spinach with not a aoddened leaf ; All the Tear Bound Lettuce, sown in September, perfectly sound j leavea green, and not yet fallen from several pyramidal Apple and Pear treea ; bush Roses still full of leaf, and many half-grown buds not drooping ; many standard Roses full of leaf where I expected to find the heads destroyed ; and, on the house wall, facing the east, Belle Lyonnaiae, Climbing Devonienais, and Marechal Niel, still covered with unfrozen foliage. Some scores of Rose cuttings, planted like Gooseberry slips, in the open ground, last September, seem perfectly uninjured — a curious circumstance, as I have for years tried to raise Rosea on their own roots, under glass and otherwise, and never could auoceed. My garden is fully exposed on all sides. I reside on the east coast of Lincolnshire, on a tidal river, five miles from the sea. The only explanation, to my mind, is that we have had no east wind. The wind, north-west, has been very often a dead calm, and the ground, for the last week, has been mors than 1 ft. deep in snow, but there were many days and nights of seve e black frost before the snow came." W. C. Boston, Paraffin as an Insecticide. — This ia one of those remedies that appear to me to vary in their effects according to the manner in which they are applied. We have lately been using Paraffin freely for washing plants, and also houses that have been badly infested with mealy bug, mixing it in the following manner, viz., a wineglaasful to three gallona of water, with a good handful of soft aoap, mixing altogether until worked into a froth. Then we have a copper of soft water, boiling hot, and mix the quantity required, which then mixes without difficulty. If for washing glass houses, apply it with a garden engine with force, and extra strong if no tender foliage be in the way. If for plants, do not exceed the strength named, and apply the mixture carefully with a syringe. I feel sure, it every part be reached, that a clearance of insect pests will be the result. It mixed with cold water, and the plants be ■ dipped in it, aa some state, there is no wonder if the cure prove worse than the disease. — J. G. L. Jan. 4, 1879.; THE GARDEN. 23 NOTES OF THE WEEK The Cape Pond Weed. — Nothwithstanding the severity of the vreather of late, numbers o( flowers of the Aponogeton distachyon may still be seen in a stream of water in Mr. Parker's nursery, Tooting. Although the water was frozen over to a considerable depth, neither the plants (which are in pots) nor their flowering properties appear to have sustained the slightest injury, and should the weather continue as mild as it is at present, hundreds of blooms will soon be opened. Hardiness of Iris alata. — This charming winter-flowering Iris (lately figured in The Gabde.v) commenced to expand its blossoms in Mr. Barr's grounds before the late severe frost set in. Blooms of it, which were then half opened, have withstood the severity of the weather without injury, and are now expanding rapidly, and will soon be fully developed. This proves that, in addition to this being one of the handsomest of the winter Irises, it is also one cf the hardiest, and, on this account, it is needless to say, the most valuable. Angrsecum sesquipedale. — Plants of this charming Orchid are well grown in Messrs. Yeitch's nursery, Chelsea. A specimen of it at the present time bears about twenty buds and partly.expanded bios, soras, whilst the plants themselves, owing to their green and healthy appearance, are far from being unattractive, even when not in bloom. Daphne indica rubra. — This has become comparatively a scarce plant, even in nurseries ; it is, therefore, satisfactory to find a good stock of it in Messrs. Veitch's nursery, consisting of compact little plants, in 4.in. or 5-in. pots, each shoot of which is furnished with a good truss of well.ooloured, agreeably-scented blossoms. So fragrant, indeed, are they, that a few small plants of this Daphne, even in a large conservatory, are suSicient to fill the house with a perfume, the sweetness of which is equalled by that of but few other plants. A New Fern. — Mr. Williams has, in his nursery at HoUoway, a very distinct Nephrolepis, which promises to be of great value for hanging-baskets in the conservatory. It has long, arched leaves, and produces large masses of thread-like rhizomatous roots, from 8 ft. to 9 ft. long, which depend in a graceful manner from the biskets. Aucubas at Christmas. — When well furnished with borries, and the latter well coloured, few berry-bearing plants are more handsome in winter than Aucubas. They are quite as easily grown as Solanums, and, on account of their stiff green foliage, are much more effective, especially when grown in the form of dwarf, bushy plants in 6. in. pots, as may now be seen in Messrs. Veitch's nursery, Chelsea. The Giant Christmas Rose. — The blooms on established plants of this fine Hellebore in Mr. Parker's nursery. Tooting, are this year finer than we have ever before seen them. They have been slightly protected from rain and snow by means of lights or hand- glasses, whic"i keep the blooms clean and pure,[and also encourage them to develop themselves more perfectly than they otherwise would do. Hardy Plants in Flower in Nottinghamshire.— There are certainly not many gardens in the midland counties where one may gather flowers on New Year's Day from the borders, and that too, when the thermometer marked 25^ of frost on Christmas Day. Here there is a large clump of the giant Christmas Rose with two and thiee bio Eoms on a stem, that has been in bloom for a "month past. 5 here are also several other charming blush-coloured Hellebores in boom, a few herald blooms of Hepaticas, white, blue, and H. angu. Ic sa, several beautiful Primroses, hybrids from the large mauve Primrose now known as P. grandiflora, and of the rich crimson P. anriculsoflora. Polyanthuses were blooming well before the frost, and will saonbe sending up their heads. I know where I could find the first purple bud of the early spring Cyclamens, whose great rich crimson-lined leaves lay hid unhurt beneath the snow. — Fkank Miles Bingliam, Notts. Trial of Hellebores.— Mr. Barr has now in his nursery at Tooting perhaps the largest and most complete collection of Helle. bores ever got together. It comprises every variety procurable both in the United Kingdom and on the Continent, and each kind bein" ■well planted on raised and otherwise prepared beds, their correc't names and synonyms will be easily determined. At present there is in bloom a large quantity of Helleborus altifollus or maximus, and a beau- tiful variety named H. niger minor. The latter possesses foliage of a lighter and more pleasing shade of green than that of any of the other kinds, and its flowers, which have been produced in abundance since early in November, are large and of snowy whiteness, and are admirably adapted for bouquet making. Though the plants in ques- tion have had no protection afforded them, only such flowers as were fully expanded when the frost occurred have suffered any injury. As the different sorts come into bloom, they will be classified ; and if this be done (as no doubt it will be) as eifioiently as the Daffodils were in the same establishment, good work will be effected. Eupatorium Weinmanni. — This is largely grown in Mr. Wills' nurseries, Fulham, for supplying cut blooms in winter, which it does in abundance. Its leaves are smoother than those of E. agera. tioides, and its flowers are whiter. It is also well worth growing into specimens for flowering in the conservatory. Masdevallia polysticta.- Though the flowers of this Masde- vallia are comparatively insignificant, they are, nevertheless, very pretty, and are produced in greater profusion than those of any other kind. It is grown in quantity in the Holloway nurseries, where small plants of it, in lin. pots, bear, at the present time, as many as a dozen graceful little flower spikes, eech of which is furnished with some five or six buds, or small, whitish, prettily.spotted blossoms that well repay minute examination. Dwarf Poinsettiis. — These are well grown by Mr. James, Isle- worth, who propagates them from tops of plants late in the summer, and by good management afterwards succeeds in getting plants about 6 in. high in 5-in. pots, bearing fairly large heads of bloom and furnished with healthy leaves down to the pot. In this state they are exceedingly useful for small vases or for forming a front row in the conservatory. In the same garden large plants of Poin- settias are also grown to perfection, and, mixed with good plants of the double white Azalea narcissiflora and graceful racemes of Euphorbia jacquiniasflora, they produce at the present time a grand effect. Pilea muscosa among' Orchids.— This free-growing plant is grown on the stages au-ong the Orchid pots in Mr. Philbrick's garden at Regent's Park. It is planted out in the gravel along with Panioum variegatum, and, in this way, the gravel and pots are almost hidden, and more moisture is retained in the atmosphere than would other, wise be the case ; therefore, besides the good effect produced, the Orchids, which are, as a matter of course, the first consideration, are benefited thereby. Cyclamens and Tree Carnations. — These associate well together. They flower at the same time, and the same temperature and other conditions suit each equally well. Mr. James, Isleworth, grows them together in a small lean-to house, and, besides affording plenty of bloom for cutting, they also make a fine display for many weeks in the form of plants in pots. The Cyclamens consist at pre. sent chiefly of a rich dark purple or magenta. flowered kind and a pure white sweet-scented one, and the Carnations are Rose Perfection, rosy-pink ; Miss Joliffe, flesh colour ; and La Grande, scarlet. The large Cyclamens, so well known at the London shows, that come from Redlees, are quite equal to those of former years, and the same may be said of the Cinerarias, Pelargoniums, &c. Oncidium Forbesi. — Of all Orchids now in flower in Messrs. Veitch's nursery this is one of the most attractive. Plants of it, bearing gracefully arching spikes of golden. edged, chocolate flowers, are introduced among other plants on the sides of pathways with excellent effect. In the same houses are also finely.flowered exam, pies of the well-known Lycasle Skinntri and its charming white variety, also a remarkably fine variety of the showy Odontoglossum Halli, one plant of which bears two graceful spikes, each furnished with about a dozen large and handsome blossoms. To these may be added the pretty white Loolia albida, and that most useful of all Lady's. slippers, Cypripedinm Sedeni. Betonica (Betony).— In woods and thickets all over Europe and NorthernAsia these plants are among the most attractive of the extensive Labiate Order. One species, B. grandiflora, a handsome plant, is one of the most valuable subjects that could be found for the wild garden, growing anywhere in free soils, in copses or shrubberies, among the dwarf herbaceous plants or Grass. Bocconia (or Btacleya) Cordata belongs to the Poppy family, but is wholly distinct in aspect from any other herba- ceous plant grown, and one of the most valuable for the wild garden, living, as it does, in almost any soil, but attaining the proportions of the stately Siberian herbaceous plants when in free and good soil. In open glades in woods it would be a great ornament, especially if planted near deep accumulations of leaf soil. 24 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 4, 1879. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. S ibstitute for Asphalte.— Allow me to state in reply to " H. JI.," (p. 5S6, Vol. XIV.) that an e-xcellent dry path for gardens may bo made as follows : After removing .3 in. or 1 in. of the surface soil, put in a layer of broken stones or bricks, road metal size, and fill in the instertices with smaller stones and sand mixed with as much coal tar as will moisten it and no more. It should then be well rolled. After the lapse of three or four days it should have a coating one-eighth of an inch thick of sand and coal tar, made as dry as possible, and again rolled, after sprinkling the surface with dry sand to prevent the misture adhering to the roller. In ten days it will have set sufficiently hard for use. — T. B. " U. M." (p 5SG) will find the following directions for laying down garden paths with coil lar and gravel, useful: — Procure a quantity of common gravel as free from dust as possible, put it under cover and turn it frequently till quite dry ; mix this with tar, just sufficient to wet every pebble, and no more ; do a little at once, and turn it over till well mixed. Make the bottom of the walk quite solid, and then lay on the mixture from 2 in. to -3 in. thick. Press down with a heavy roller nnd sprinkle a little fine gravel on the top, then roll occasionally till set. Fine weather should be chosen for the operation.— J. D., Perth, Baits for Field Mice.— "J. M." says (Vol. XIV., p. .57.3) that he has caught all kinds of mice by baiting his traps with Barcelona nuts. Does he mean to say that he has caught the short-tailed field mouse or bank vole with this bait ? Barcelona nuts are almost irresistible to the common house mouse and the long-tailed field mouse, and I have caught two of the three species of shrew by baiting with cheese, but I have never succeeded in enticing either of the two short-tailed voles into any kind of trap at all, and these are the two species most destructive to plants growing on rockwork. They do not destroy bulbs, but graze off the young succulent shoots of various species of Iberis and manj other rook plants as clean as a sheep. These mice constitute the principal fool of the common barn owl, a bird which may bo said to spend its who'.e time in destroying vermin, but which is ruthlessly slaughtered by sports- men, gamekeepers, farmers, and others. Every man who kills a barn owl ought to be punished. — H. Haki'VH Ckewe, Drayt.n-Beauclixmj] Rec- tory, Tring, Nettles Under Ti'asa.— "E. F." (p 536) should keep the Nettles about which he enquires, mown down to the ground five or six times daring the growing season ; that prevents their seeding, impairs root action, and ultimately weirs them oat — 11. G.iee.vfield. Charcjil Bui'aing.— The readiest way of making charcoal is to cut up the wood into lengths of about 2 ft. 0 in. or so, and if large, split it into quarters, and lay it somewhere to dry, after which it will bo in a fit condition for burning. In stacking it preparatory to this, a stake should be driven iuto the ground, around which a heap of shavings and small sticks should be piled, and against this the wood should be placed close on end in a regular circle, allowing just sufficient room between each piece for the fire to travel freely. The stack may consist of one layer or two, according to the quantity to be burned, but it is better to build it iu the latter way than to have the circumference large, as it is not only easier for covering up, but cau then be charred with greater regularity. As soon as the stack is formed, it should be covered in with a good thick- ness of straw, except just 2 ft. or so of the middle left open to light it and set the fire going. The straw on, the next thing is to cover it with from 9 in. to 1 ft. thick with soil or sand ; when all is ready apply the match and set the fire blazing. Once this gets a fair hold of the wood, the middle must be covered in, and holes pierced with a stake through the soil to let out the smoke and draw the fire to the sides till it gets hold of the mass, when smaller holes should be made and the others stopped, the object being to prevent any flame or a too rapid combustion. It often happens that the wind will drive all the fire to one side, to obviate which theiholes there should be closed, and encouragement given by opening others in the opposite direction to draw it there, that the charring may be regular throughout. To prevent waste by over burning, much watchful- ness is necessary, as if the fire gets too free vent anywhere, the wood is soon consumed to ashes, instead of being simply blackened through without losing much of its bulk. When the charring is complete, the fire may easily be smothered out by patting the soil close with the back of a shovel, so as to prevent all escape of smoke, when, after a day or two, the heap may be uncovered and tho charcoal withdrawn. — S. D. Hames of Plants. — Correspondents wishinrj plants to he nameJ, will oblige by complijitig with the following rules : To send the specimens as complete as possible, i.e., both stem, leaves, and flowers, and fruit, vjhen possible. To carefully pack them in gutta-percha tissue, or other imper. vious material which will prevent evaporation. Not to send varieties of popular flowers, such as Fuchsias or Pansies, vthich are hest named by experienced groioers of suchplayits, tvho have the means of comparison at hand. Not to send more than four plants or flowers at a time. Always to send, in addition to wh'itever pseudonyms or initials they may desire to use in the paper, their full name and address. To pre-pay ail paclca(ies containing plants or flowers. R. S. G. — Mistletoe is some- times spelt Misselto, but Bentham (Handbook of the British Flora) spells it Mistletoe. As to your second question, deodorise with peat, charcoal, ashes, or dry loam. K. — Hovea acutifolia, a leguminous shrub from New Holland. Questions. Smuts from Parnac3 Chimneys.— I have iu my garden a group of houses heated by a saddle boiler, the chimney to which is carried up the usual height. The blacks from this chimney are a constant annoyance, and cover the glass roofs with smuts. What is the best way to remedy thisdifficulty?— A. E. Early Melons. — Will some one recommend me two good suitable Melons for my earliest crop (scarlet and green fleshed). I intend to grow a few plants of my first crop in aspiuroofedpit, also two sorts of the above named, suitable for a frame, to come in as a second crop. — J. W. Lamp Heating. — I have erected a small greenhouse and I am anxious to keep frost out of it, I have, therefore, purchased a paragon stove in which I am burning paraffin oil which has a strong smell, and I fear it will be injurious to the plants. Is there any other oil that would do equally well and be without smell ? — S. R. Tuberous TropaBolums.— I have a tuberous TropKolum n.«^}jpg long slender shoots, but a friend tells me that I shall not get it to blossom, he having tried them several times but could not succeed. Will some of your readers kindly inform ma if it requires 'auy particular treatment or temperature, and if it should be watered freely. — W. B. B. Trellis Shadings for Glass Houses.— These are largely used iu France, where they are called *' Claies pour ombrer.'* Such screens are very convenient and suitable for all kinds of close shading, and they would also protect greatly from hoar frost. The links are made in France of galvanised iron, but in this more moist climate, and where the air and drip are impregnated with sulphur from coal and smoke, it would be advisable to use brass clips and rings. The price in Paris is fr.4-50 per square metre, equal to 3s. per square yard. Does anyone mike them in England ? — G. G. Plants for Carpeting Bulb Beds. — I want to carpet my bulbs (Crocuses, Scillas, Snowdrops, Anemones, Tulips, Gladioli, Lilies, &c.), and the information 1 seek is which are about the best plants for the purpose, with a view (1) To their own beauty of flower and winter foliage ; (2) To their fitness |for the particular sort of bulbs below by not obstructing their growth when they appear above ground, and by their having surface roots that wiU not impoverish the soil for the bulbs ; (3) The Saxifrages are often mentioned in this view, especially the Mossy section, but there appears to be many varieties of these, and I should like to know the best named sorts ; (4) I do not want to know of many carpet plants for this purpose, but I should feel much indebted for the names and characteristics of a few (not Saxifrages exclusively), and if they afford some variety of colours in flower and foliage, the list would be all the more valuable, not only to me, but to the many like me, who dislike the bare places as much as they dread the frequent consequence, the descent of the destructive spade, whore now our bulbs are so commonly found. — J. S. Prssentatioii to Mr "William Sutherland.— Mr. William Sutherland, who has occupied the position of general nursery manager for Messrs. Ker, of Liverpool, during the last five years, was entertained to a complimentary dinner on tho 20th ult. at the Aigburth Hotel, by a lai'ge number of the leading gardeners of the district and other friends, on the occasion of his relinquishing his duties with Messrs. Ker, of Liver- pool, to undertake a similar post in the nurseries of Messrs. Ireland & Thomson, of Edinburgh. After the dinner, Mr. Sutherland was pre- sented with a handsome gold watch and appendages by Mr. Hinds, of Otterspool, on behalf of the subscribers. The watch bore the inscription, " Presented to Mr. William Sutherland by Liverpool gardeners and friends, as a token of their esteem and respect. Liverpool, December 20th, 1878." New Canadian Poplar (Populus canadensis nova). — This is one of the best and most useful hardy deciduous trees which we possess. In the first place, it is the most rapid growing of all our hardy trees. We have ourselves seen in the Knap Hill Nursery plants which have made 10 ft. growth in a season well furnished with branches. This will give some idea of its rapid development. It is, moreover, a tree well adapted to London, and may be seen in luxuriant health in the plantations on the Thames Embankment at Chelsea. From the treatment to which it has been there subjected, it is evident that it will bear any amount of pruning, so that it may be kept to any size or form required. It is probably the best tree we have for planting in the smoky towns of the manufacturing districts in the north of England. Its nearest affinity is with the black Italian Poplar, and, in fact, it may be described as a very much improved form of that variety, possessing greater vigour of growth, as well as larger leaves, which are retained fresh and green till a later period of the season . It is, in fact, in every way an improvement on that well-known and useful sort, and as a screen tree has no rival. — " Gardeners' Chronicle." OBITUARY. JtSaPH Dale, for manyyeara gardener at the Middle Temple, died snd- d'ulyonthe 31st ult., aged 65. Mr. Dale, like the late Mr. Samuel Pro 'me, was a most successful grower of Chrysanthemums, and was the author of a little book on their culture. THE GARDEN. 25 Ho. 373.] SATCTRDAY, JANCTAUY 11, 1879. [Vol. XV. " This is an art Which does mend Nature ; change it rather : but Thb Aet II3ELF IS Natubb." — Shakespeare, TREES, SHRUBS, & WOODLANDS. TREES " OF THE FUTURE." At this time, when a new year is dawning on us, many people " take stock," as it were, not only of affairs in general, but also of their gardens in particular ; and duly note down the acqui- sitions of the year, and the experiences gained therein. In planting trees, it is to the future we must look, and it is with regard to this point I would particularly direct attention. During the last twenty-five years, what a vast number of trees have been introduced and planted in our gardens ! and of these the greater number without doubt are Conifers ; so much so that those who come after us will probably term our age the "Age of Conifer planting," just as we now regard the end of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth cen- turies as the " Elm-planting age." The question then comes, how far do we think we shall surpass the efforts of our fore- fathers, who have bequeathed to us such grand Elm walks, Lime avenues, and Yew hedges, as evidence of their skill and foresight ? or how far shall we fall short of the results they have attained ? Without disparagement to ourselves, I think we must allow that they have, in their line (that is, in planting avenues of trees that come to perfection in this climate), reached a standard of excellence we cannot hope to surpass ; but, on the other hand we can safely say that, for grouping, or general effect, we have planted trees that will earn for us that gratitude given so freely, if at all, by posterity. What proportion our successes will be to our failures is alto- gether another question, and one that I fancy could hardly be answered favourably. As long ago as the days of Horace wo were told that we are more affected by what we see than what we hear ; that we trust our eyes rather than our ears ; and so it is now. We plant for the sake of immediate effect ; or, struck by the infantile beauty of some new seedling tree or shrub, we cram our gardens, parks, and plantations with material that in the end proves un- satisfactory. In this respect, I daresay our forefathers would have been no better had they had the opportunity ; but we may gain an advantage over them by ascertaining, as in these days of research we are fully able to do, what is the exact effect of the trees we plant when seen in their native haunts. Artists, botanists, photographers, explorers, in turn, give us the result of their labours in books, which are accessible to all, and the most incredulous eyes can hardly disbelieve what the sun has printed for us in black and white, even if the coloured sketches of the artist be distrusted by those who have been disappointed at such hands in days gone by. The only real disadvantage we labour under, is that we cannot tell positively how far these newly-introduced trees will reproduce in England the beauty they show when in perfect growth at horns ; but even in this case if we study with any degree of closeness their native habitats, we shall, in imitating them, be successful, both as regards present effect and future satisfaction. Of all the trees introduced in modern days, none has been planted more universally than the Wellingtonia gigantea, and I venture to say that few are less worthy of such extensive planting. No doubt it is the fact of its vast size that has created such a desire for it, but does that make it the more generally suitable ? Let us see what it is in its own country ! A huge bole, towering up into the sky — a trunk, garnished with a few scanty branches, at rare intervals, high above our heads, that seem as if there to show how small they are in pro- portion to the trunk. The foliage is so scanty that the mid- day sun is robbed of little of its strength by the tufted branch- lets even where they hang the thickest, and the whole grove more resembles a gigantic array of scaffolding poles half stripped already for the builder, than a collection of the so-called grand- est trees in Nature. Planted in a close avenue, like a French allee of Poplars, or as a single finger post that makes, as it were, a mighty gnomon in Nature's sundial, it is well placed indeed ; but should it not attain its full stature in this country, where will any charm be found in it when it outgrows its youth- ful richness of foliage ? It is well-known now that Australia can show a tree that towers up to a height of 480 ft. It is needless to say that it is only in the richest soil of a sheltered valley in the Australian Al ps that Eucalyptus amygdalina attains such an enormous height, but it has one advantage over the Wellingtonia, namely, that when isolated, it lorms a branching, round-headed tree, in shape approaching the Wych Elm, and only runs up with a long, bare stem when crowded up among other trees of like growth. If this prove hardy, and it is not very unlikely that it may be so, it no doubt will be largely planted by lovers of the gigantic in coming years. To any one fresh from Californian coasts it does seem a little strange that a tree so beautiful and so valuable as Taxodiuta sempervirens should be so rarely seen here. In its native country it forms vast forests that, till lately, stretched for hundreds of miles on the north-west coast. Its timber — the Redwood of commerce— is valuable in many ways, and is largely used for building purposes because it burns with diffi- culty. In stature it does not fall more than 100 ft. short of its kinsman, the Wellingtonia, and is incomparably the more beautiful tree when full grown. It has this peculiarity, that it only thrives in the belt of land that stretches inland five miles from the coast, and on that windy shore will not grow within a mile of the sea. This is what has probably caused it to be neglected ; but, in an island like ours, what a large tract there must be suitable for its growth, where it would escape the severity of inland frost and luxuriate in tho cool dampness of a sea fog, such as it gets at home. Planted singly it is inclined to branch too much, and requires pruning to make it shoot up into a tree when young ; but its extreme rapidity of growth, and its beauty when old, to say nothing of its value as timber, should make it a favourite with all who can plant it in the neighbourhood of the sea. Another tree, not far distant of kin, that shoots up 200 ft. into the air, and lights up the mountain sides of Japan with its bright green, pendent branches, Cryptomeria japonica, has the unusual property of looking beautiful in all stages of growth, and its wood is valuable for panelling, as allJapanese travellers know who have enjoyed the peculiarly sweet scent it gives to a room. This tree, in its native country, braves the violence of a typhoon, and, when full grown, will probably stand our westerly gales better than trees that grow in sheltered inland valleys. Like the Wellingtonia, it shows to greatest advantage when planted singly or in a close alley. In Japan there is an avenue 30 miles long closely planted with this tree, so much do they admire it. As an old tree its branches, first pendent and then gracefully recurving at the tips, give it a character so marked as to suggest th j idea carried out by Chinese and Japanese in the curving roof of their pagodas, which seems to have been borrowed from this source. Two trees there are that are the most prominent as well as the most common among Japanese trees, and give that air of peculiarity which all have remai-ked ; and yet, though hardy, they are but little planted in this country, because, in their young state, they are undistinguishable from the Scotch Fir, and these are Pinus densiflora, which when full grown, is a very distinct and handsome tree, with a massive, rounded contour ; it surpasses in size and beauty the Italian Pinus Pinoa, and is, in its native country, of far more rapid growth. This should be planted as an isolated specimen tree, and will thrive under the same conditions as the Stone Pine. The other is Pinus Massoniana, a tree still more hardy, and of the wildest and most original growth, so like a Scotch Fir in its young state that it is not surprising it should be little known or planted ; but as soon as it attains to middle age, its eccentri- city of growth begins to show itself, and in old age it assumes the shape of a Cedar of Lebanon. Planted thickly in clumps, this tree will, in the space of a lifetime, reproduce something of Japanese quaintness in our parks ; and to those who plant " for the future," this will in the end repay their patience, and prove quite unlike any other species of Pinus. 26 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 11, 1859; Before making any remarks on other members of the great Conifer family, there are yet two of the true Pines that must not be overlooked. Pimis macrooarpa (or CouUeri) is a Cali- foniian tree that certainly will gain much admiration in days to come. Perfectly hardy, exceedingly large in leaf, branch, and fruit, it is handsome in every way ; its branches .are very wide ap.arD, and the branchlets few, so as to give space to show off the size of each. Like Pinus insignis, it is a rapid grower, but is, if I am not mistaken, a far superior tree in every way, and its hardiness makes it deserving of a place in every well- furnished garden where there is room for a large tree. The last of this family which I will mention at present is Pinus Larioio. Its beauty in its native Corsican forests and its value as timber make it so desirable a tree that, at the risk of being tedious, its merits should be extolled. Introduced a hundred years ago, it has proved itself thoroughly hardy in all parls of the kingdom ; and, though well known, has not yet nearly reached the favour it merits. Like the Scotch Fir and the Larch, it is deserving of universal growtb. E. H. AV00D.4.LL. ORNAMENTAL FORESTRY. Few subjects present a better field for the display of taste than the planting of trees, and there are very few situations in which they may not be made highly ornamental as well as useful, for when they are chosen and arranged with taste, they give variety to the most tame and level country, charm to the waterside, beauty to the slopes, both from the trees themselves and the shadows which they cast, and relief to the naked hill, upon whose summit " the labouring clouds do often rest." What thinning is to the overcrowded plain or valley planting is to the hill — the one relieves the darkness, and the other the bleakness of the scene. In ornamental forestry, as in landscape gardening, the works of men eminent in their day and generation have fallen into disrepute from the igno- rance and ambition of their followers and imitators. Pontey pruned, and his successors lopped unmercifully ; Brown substi- stuted curves and sweeping outlines for the straight lines of his predecessors, and his imitators gave ,a meandering course to every stream and piece of made water, and a serpen- tine form to every pathway and fence. Whoever aims at pro- ducing the best effects from his planting, must study closely the habits of the trees with which he operates, their rates of growth, the dates of their maturity, the periods of their decay, their varieties of tints, and their adaptability to the soil, situation, and climate. In striving to produce gran- deur he must adhere to simplicity; in seeking to attain variety he must avoid incongruity, for while a reasonable amount of variety never fails to please, too great an admixture bewilders, and too regular a succession, either of tints or forms, destroys the whole spirit of planting. The carryuig out of all minor details, such as the planting of particular quarters and detached parts, will be found comparatively easy, but skill and judgment are required to blend the seemingly unconnected parts into one harmonious whole. The perfection of the planter's art will be as apparent in the skill which he displays in concealing deformities, as in that shown in developing beauties ; and while in his variety he may approach intricacy, and thereby arouse curiosity, he must maintain throughout his composition, both connection and continuity. His tints, like those of the painter, for whom he prepares the picture, should consist of both warm and cool. If in autumn he can display them as wild as those of the evening clouds, to which his planting will form a natural and appropriate foreground, so much the greater will be his success. In revealing beauties or concealing deFects, he must on no account interfere with freedom or extent, but so blend his masses of plantation and his open grounds, as to hide the limits of both ; thus the extent of his work will not strike so much by its vastness of dimensions, as by the nobleness of its effect, and, as it is the experience of its utilitv wliich gives the enduring charm to beauty, so, in the choice of his trees, he should select those which, after they have gr-irtiRF-d the present generation of beholders, will greatly benelt posterity. In surveying plantations we often meet with sr^enes which strike us by their inoongruance or unfitness to th*:) locality; such. for instance, as the lean outline which a few scattered Poplars or Firs impart to a grove in the immediate vicinity of a noble- looking mansion. The effect of their unsocial tops is much the same in any considerable mass of round-headed trees. Another, is the insigniScance imparted to a house of any preten- sions when it is flanked by trees which rise very much higher than the building itself, for, as the trees continue to grow, the house appears to sink. A third is the effect of a grove of Firs upon an open common, or in any situation where they can be browsed by cattle ; for as they lose their lower sweeping branches, their ornamental effect is completely destroyed. The mutilated forms of closely-pruned Elms, with nothing left but bare trunks and tufted tops, become permanent blots upon the face of the landscape, for if, after such treatment, the side branches are again allowed to grow, the tops decay, and it is only by subsequent pollarding that their lives can be saved. Whilst the ornamental planter aims at the production of breadth of light and shade, he should bear in mind that density is effective mainly as a contrast, and it is by no means the thickest grove or the most compact tree that yields the greatest amount of pleasure to the beholder. Those trees which present fairly open heads, with alternations of canopy and recess, and consequently of light and shade, give the greatest variety to a plantation, and this may be increased to an almost endless extent by a choice of trees suited to the configurations of the ground. In the vicinity of the mansion beauty and pioturesqueness must sometimes yield to comfort and convenience ; but as the planting recedes it may pass from grace to wild luxuriance, until at last it attains the freedom of a forest. The continuity which is so essential to the completion of a landscape may sometimes be maintained by the selection of species of trees which adapt themselves by form and outline to those of the adjoining masses of plantations. Thus, Alders ■ as they grow old so much resemble Oaks that a superficial observer often fails to detect the difference ; hence their utility in keeping up the appearance of a continuance of Oak plantations in soils too wet for the Oak to flourish. The Alder, too, succeeds in some cold-bottomed land, and upon some exposed sites where the growth of the Oak would be very slow and its appearance stunted ; and as the fastest-grow- ing tree is nearly always the most graceful and ornamental, a vigorous Alder, or even a well-grown Willow or Poplar, is preferable to a languishing Oak. In clearing for the sake of giving variety and effect to woods of large extent, it is too much the custom to sweep away the whole of the under- wood, as well as bushes of all kinds, so that all bonds of connection between the remaining groups are completely severed. This gives an appearance of abruptness to the planting, and a certain degree of isolation to what is left. Whatever tends to diminish abruptness softens the whole scene, hence the beneficial effects of thinning out the front lines of dense woods, where such margins are much in sight and fairly sheltered ; the detached trees break up, or very much soften the approaching gloom. But in such situations very light and elegant trees would be, to some extent, out of place. One of the finest effects produced by plantations is observable when, from the valleys and plains below, the trees appear to climb the heights, following the line of the crest and the direction of the spurs, not in narrow belts, but in broad masses, the different species gradually intermixing, and entirely changing with the heights, from the luxuriant Oak, Elm, and Ash below, through zones of Beech, Sycamore, &c.,tothe Pine- crowned summit. Such woodlands will appear either to mount from below or flow from above, according to the situation of the greatest breadths of plantation and the directions in which they radiate; and the occasional openings, with their warm nooks for the homestead, and their enclosures for well-sheltered, arable or pasture lauds, will give a variety and a richness to to the country which is, if not unattainable, at any rate unob- servable to the same extent, in more level districts. These occasional openings are also very effective in marking the degree of aclivity in any well- wooded and rising ground. A. J. Burrows. The Red-berried Elder.— We have several plants of this Elder, about 8 ft. high and aa ranch throagh. It ia quite hardy here ; even Jan. 11, 1S79.J THE GAEDEN. 27 the late severe weather does not seem to affect it, while Bays, Por- tugal Laurels and Lanrastinua are quite blackened. When in frnit I consider it to be one oP the best shrubs which we have. There is no. thing that equals it in the shrubbery during the autumn. The berries hang in clusters like bunches oE grapes. As Mr. Grieve states, birds are very fond of the berries, and devour them with as much relish as hey do currants. — A. McIniosh, Lacton House, Berii'ickshiro. ORXAMENTAL SHRUBS IJT THE SOUTH OF IRELAND UNDER SEVERE FROST. As daring the three weeks immediately preceding Christmas we, even in this usually mild and temperate locality (the seaboard of the county of Cork), experienced the severest weather, and the greatest intensity of frost, that has been known here for forty years, the thermometer having on more than one night fallen as low as 17' Fahr., thus showing 15' of frost, when 5' or 6' is the most we usnally experience, I think that an account of the way in which some of my more uncommon and doubtfully hardy shrubs have withstood this ordeal may not prove uninteresting to those of your readers who ndmire and cultivate that class of plants. The Veronicas, which were nearly all either killed altogether or down to the ground in the severe winter of 1860-1, when nothing like the degree of frost was reached that has this winter been registered, have this year, I am happy and surprised to say, passed altogether unharmed ; even somo small cutting plants of now varieties, received by post from France late last autumn, and planted out in a border at the end of my garden without any protection, are uninjured, and the variety V. Girdwoodiana, supposed to be decidedly more delicate and tender than the otheri, and which 1 had lost more than once previously, is also unharmed ; Pittosporum crassifolium had its young top shoots only browned ; Coprosma luoiJa and Cunninghami were only very slightly injured; Banksia australis is uninjured; Eurybia lyrata, ramulosa, and Traversi have been punished, the first and last named most so ; they look as if they would lose most of their leaves, but the wood seems uninjured, and will, I think, break again ; Mela- leuca hypericifolia and Pomaderris elyptica seem killed; Eacallonia arguta, a small, young plant is uninjured ; the silver variegated form of Fatsia japonioa usually known as Aralia Sieboldi, has passed uninjured, while the ordinary green form is considerably browned ; Berberis nepalensis and trifnrcata, usually considered tender and re- quiring the protection of a greenhouae, are quite uninjured, as is also Thuja'bonniana, the beautiful Fern-leaved form which I have never Been planted out save in this neighbourhood, as even at Exeter it was grown in tubs which were wheeled into the Camellia house in the winter; it is apparently, however, much hardier than it was thought to bo. 'Aralia Schteaera and quinquefolia are a good deal injured; A. Standishi and Abeli not at all. A. mexioana, heterophylla, and Cunninghami have suffered, but not seriously Olea excelsa, tops of young growth destroyed. Garrya maorophylla, which is supposed to be tender, and is grown in the temperate house at Kew, is quite un. injured, though the superincumbent weight of the first heavy snow fall in 'November, broke the centre out of my large specimen of this fine.foliaged shrub. Griselinia macrophylla (true) (the variety usually known under this name being really G. luoida) is perfectly hardy whereas G. lacida, even against a wall and protected by Fir branches, is much injured. Of the variegated Phormiums, P. tenax, var , has 'suffered most, and is, I fear, seriously, if not fatally injured. P Colensoi, beyond being beaten down by the weight of snow, does not seem to have suffered, and P. Veitohi is altogether uninjured and its leaves quite upright. Embothrium coccinenm seems quite uninjured save a few of the older leaves turned brown. Cupressus Corneyana the true funeral Cvpress so seldom met with, and suppposed to be only half hardy, is" quite uninjured, and seems perfectly hardy; Euonymus fimbriatus, supposed to be tender, is quite unmjured ; Cistus vaf inatusjis a good deal browned, but will, I think, survive; Habrothamnus corymbosus and Neweli, though against a wall, have lost nearly all their leaves, but their stems seem uninjured; Ceano. thus africanus is seriously injured, if not killed; Podalyria styraci- flora biflora, and setacsa are much injured, but will, I think, survive ; Choisya ternata, which is usually supposed to require the protection of a wall planted out in the open shrubbery, is quite uninjured, and may be considered perfectly hardy ; Aralia trifoliata latifoha is much injured but will, I think, survive; Genista foliolosaisa good deal iniured'- Kscallonia coquimbensis is uninjured; Dodoncea Barmanni and viscosa are a good deal browned, but the distinct and pretty D Boroniiefolia seems quite uninjured ; Abutilon or Sida vitifolia has suffered but not seriously; Plagianthns pnlchellus seems quite uninjured, and Banthamia fragifera is also, contrary to my expecta- tion unhurt • Viburnum Awafurki is a good deal browned, and the folia'.'e much discoloured but not seriously injured. I aai sorry to be obliged to confirm M. Carriere's opinion in the "Revue Horti- oole " for December 16, that the beautiful and most distinct Chimbo- razo Pampas Grass (Gynerium jubatum) is mnoh less hardy than the other members of the family known to ns, all the tops of the shoots of my plant being much injured, whereas the other varieties are quite unhurt. The Aponogeton distacbyon in my pond has not withstood the severity of the weather by any means so well as in Mr. Parker's nursery, all sign of blossom having disappeared, and even the foliage ceased to float on the top of the water as it usually does. Belgrove, Q^icenstown. W. E. Gumbleton. GOLDEN-LEAVED CHESTNUT. (cASTiNEA CnRYSOPHTLLA.) For Lord Ducie'a information (p. 8) allow me to say that I found this Chestnut in the form of undergrowth, from 1 ft. to 6 ft. in height, in a forest of Pinus insij^nis to the south of Monterey, in Upper California. It has been found to the north in other Iccalities in California, but I had not the opportunity of seeing it elsewhere. The few bushes of it which I saw were evidently not at home in the exceedinijly poor, arid soil of that region, and the nature and condi- tion of the soil will possibly account for their small size compared with that of plants of it growing in the rich, damp soil and moist climate of Oregon ; there it is said to reach 40 ft. or more in height. It is probable that it was from the few scrubby bushes growing near Monterey that the first imported seeds were gathered, as Mr. Lobb, the collector, made Monterey his head. quarters for a year or more. All the plants that I have seen of it in Britain resembled in size and habit those of Monterey, and the only exception I have beard of is the fine plant described by Lord Ducie. The Tortworth plant has evidently found a suitable root run in the soil derived from the old red sandstone. 1 believe that all the species of Chestnut (Castanea) prefer arenacious soils to others. The largest and healthiest plants that I have seen of the Spanish Chestnut were growing on the new red sandstone, but in the least oxidised strata. Nevertheless, I cannot think that a poor saudy soil will suit the examples of the golden-leaved Chestnut now in this country. It is a fine evergreen, but, if I am right in thinking that all the plants of it now growing in Britain have originated from the few at Monterey, it is donbtful if they will ever fully represent the ornamental character cf the species. We must look for this in the hardier, better-constitutioned seedlings from the Oregon habitat, though with those we now possess it seems to be more a lack of stamina than of hardiness. I have j nst examined a few plants and find that they have entirely escaped injury from the late severe and, to other plants, destructive frosts. Elvaslon Nuiseries, Borwwasli, Derhy. G. Syme. CUTTING AND FELLING GARDEN HEDGES. A HEDGE that is made of any plant that sheds its leaves in autumn,, should never be cut in summer or autnmn until after the leaves have fallen, unless in the case of those that are strong and vigorous, and that also have attained the full size to which they are required to grow, for the reason that nothing tends to weaken a deciduous plant more than a reduction of its shoots ami branches whilst they are covered with leaves. There are two distinct purposes for which garden hedges are employed, viz., as a fence and as a screen. In the latter capacity they are often used for separating the useful from the ornamental departments, and for this purpose they need not be of such a substantial character as when used as a fence ; they may therefore be kept cut much narrower, and whether composed of Beech, Yew, Privet, Holly, oi- Qciicks, they need not from the first be kept headed back so cloaely as it required to branch out in a way to render them more impervious : on the contrary, they may be allowed to run up more quickly, simply keeping the sides trimmed up with no more breadth at the bottom than is necessary to allow the Iwer branches to get light enough to keep them healthy and thriving, a condition more likely to be maintained than if cut quite perpendicularly in the old-fashioned manner with the top square, an ugly and formal shape, and one in which a hedge can only be kept healthy when allowed to grow to a very considerable breadth from bottom to top. In the case of young enclosure hedges round gar. dens or orchards, the first consideration is to manage them from the oommencement soas to secure a close, impervious bottom; this can only be accomplished by cutting the leading shoots down sufficiently low the first or second year after planting to cause them to treak back near the base, snd each subsequent year to shorten the strong, erect growths, enough to cause them to branch out still further ; this will have the effect of throwing additional strength into the lowest branches that occupy a horizontal position. It is the undue haste 28 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. to get the hedge up to its required height too quickly, so often appa- rent the third and fourth year after planting by not cutting the upright growth low enough, that spoils halt the hedges that are planted, especially when the lower horizontal branches are cut too closely in, a practice which tends to aggravate the evil by throwing undue strength into the upright growth. When hedges that are required for the i^arposes of a fence have got bare and naked at the bottom, in the way that such as are composed of Quicks will do if not well managed, they should be felled down to within 9 in. of the ground. When very strong they will require a saw or a light axe, which is better. The operator should stand on the lowest side of the fence, in the ditch if there be one, so as to be well under his work, severing the whole, both the strong and weak wood, in a slanting direction, with an upright stroke, by which means he will make a clean out, and avoid splitting the stools in the way that results from cutting downwards, and which has such an unworkmanlike appear- ance, and is still worse in its effects by causing the young shoots to push weaker than when the stools are cat without splitting ; but as there is much in the look of a garden hedge a5 well as in its answer, ing the mere purposes of a fence, the felling and retention of an o'd hedge in the way described is not to b3 reojmmended if it be full of gaps where there is no living wood, for, although the defect may be in some measure made good by the introduction of young plants, as is often done to fill up the vacancies, still it gives the whole such a patchy look that it should never be tolerated in a garden where there are any pretensions to an orderly appear- ance; in such a case it is much better to grub up the old fence and plant afresh. It is often said that there is considerable difficulty in getting a young hedge to grow in the same place from which an old one has been removed, whioh is true when the exhausted soil is planted without any admixture of fresh material to renew it, but not it 6 in. of new soil, such as is procurable in country places from the roadsides, commons, or in any place where the surface spit can be spared where buildings are about to be erected, is added. Should these sources fail, street sweepings in the neighbourhood of towns, or road scrapings in the country will do mixed liberally with the old mould ; 3 in. or 4 in. of rotten minnre should at the same time be dug in. Many there are who manure lib9rally all the other plants they cultivate, and who never think of giving anything to encourage the growth of a hedge, which, not only in the first prepa- ration of the ground, bat for some years until fully grown, will well repay for liberal manuring, especially where Q licks or Holly is used. T. B. railway carriage and waggon brakes. This Willow, although, like the rest ot its species, not hard or close in texture, is, nevertheless, so remarkably tongh that it answers well for many purposes to which it is not often put ; and, moreover, it grows fast on fairly good soil. T. Baines. NOTES & QUESTIONS ON TSEES, SBBOBS, & W00DLAND3. QUALITY OP WELLTNGTONIA TIMBER. lit noticing several exceptionally fiae specimens ot Wollingtonia (p. 578), Mr. Berry speaks of its being jet premature to form any decided opinion as to the quality and durability of the timber of the Wellingtonia. But, concerning that, I think there is but little room for doubt, unless the tree is an exception to all others of a quick, growing character, for, taking a broad view of the subject, quality, which we may set down to mean strength, toughness, and durability, is present proportionate to the time required for its formation. The wood of quick-growing trees is light and spongy, conditions at once opposed to strength and lasting capabilities, and limiting its use for •all but exceptional purposes. Although looked at upon the principal of small profits and quick returns, light timber, such as Poplar, may, on some descriptions of soil, be found as remunerative to the grower as the slower -growing, denser.wooded Oak, Elm, Ash, &o. I think we may take it for granted that the Wellingtonia, in common with other rapid-growing Coniferous or Taxaceous trees that have not yet in this country had time to give conclusive evidence ot the quality ot their wood, will be in no way different from other species of trees of which we have had enough time to judge correctly in this respect; in fact, the natural laws whiob govern the develop, ment ot vegetable life in the formation ot woody fibre, appear to point generally in one direction, which is that slow growth means comparative strength and durability. Of late years Sycamore, of even moderate growth, has been so much in request amongst machine roller makers that the price it fetches never could have been anticipated ; the short-fibred, somewhat brittle nature ot the woad renders it of comparatively little value for pur- poses where ic will be subject to a strain, it for any length it is unsupported. To this, no doubt, coupled with the fact that the usa for whioh it is now required was non-existant when trees which have attained any considerable size were planted, may be attributed the scarcity of its timber, for had it existed in anything approaching the quantity that some of our more generally ;used woods do, the par. ticular purpose for which it is now employed could not have exceeded the supply. Good Red Willow appears to be almost equally in request than which nothing that has yet been found seems to do ao well for Beech Trees aad TJnderwJod. — Allow me to confirm Mr. Knight's statements (p. 579, vol. X[V). About a year ago I visited Floors, at a time when I was specially interested as to the best sub- jects to form undergrowth beneath forest trees, and I was shown masses of Rhododendrons, Yews, and Laurels growing most profusely under the fine old Beeches and other forest trees that may be seen there ; places that used to be naked plains some years ago, are now well furnished with underwood. — Bobekt GnEENriELD, The I'rionj Gardens, Wancick, I forwarded the paragraph in The Garden a couple ot weeks ago, by Mr. Hossaok, to a gentleman at Alderly Park in an excellent position to furnish information on the subject, asking him if he could corroborate the statements in The Garde.v as to the luxuriance of the Rhododendrons, &c., under the Beeches there. He has just re- plied to my enquiries, and iu his letter he states that the Beech wood referred to in The Garden is called the " Beech wood," and contains some of the finest and o'dest trees in England ; also that there are large quantities ot Rhododendrons in the wood in question, but there are certainly neither Rhododendrons nor any other kind ot underwcod growing where the Beeches occupy the whole space overhead, nor any under the Beeches where they are growing thickly together. This is rather a different statement from that which said the Rhode, dendrons were to be seen growing, flowering, and seeding right up to the trunks or the trees, in the wo)d alluded to. — J. S. W. Rhododendrons grow here under Baech Trees in the greatest possible luxuriance, and flower very fairly considering the shade to which they are subjected, and they also make one ot the best covers for game. The Yew, Holly and common Laurel also grow very well, but they do not make such dense cover as the Rhododendrons. On the top ot Boxhill, on the chalk, may be seen considerable numbers ot fine Beeches growing amongst the Box, whioh grows quite as freely under the Beech as under Oaks, and it makes one ot the densest ot covers. It should be mentioned, however, that the Box iu this case is in. digenous. In this neighbourhood, another instance occurs on the chalk at the Denbies, where, in a rather dark Beech wood Box is growing very freely, and iu this case it has been planted. — J. Burnett, T)ie Deepdene, Dorkinij. Hardiness of Hydrangeas.— In ^Tuk Garden (Vol. XIV., p. 579) I find that Mr. Groom thinks that Hydrangeas require to be protected against severe frost. Permit me to say that Hydrangeas are much more hardy than is generally suppose 1, aud that they are not so difficult as regards soil as is generally imagined. I have about one hundred plants in a border on the north side ot my garden, planted in ordinary soil in front ot seme trees, Lilacs, and other shrubs, with the roots of which they strugjle for existenoJ. Never, theless, without any protection, the Hydrangeas have stood over more severe winters even than that of 1871, and in summer are mig- nifioent. I may, perhaps, add that a few were destroyed in Dec. 1870, but only those whioh were exposed to the sun in fine weather; those completely shaded escaped. — Jean Sisley, Lyons. Trees and Found itions of Baildiags.— A curious instance (says a correspondent of "The Builder") has lately come under my observation of the mischief to the foundations of buildings which may sometimes be caused by the roots of trees. In the case to whioh I refer attention had been drawn to an increasing settlement iu the wall of a school, built some five years since. It was clear that something was wrong underneath, and so underpinning was determined upon. When the ample and well-executed footings and concrete had been examined it was discovered that the roots ot a row of Ontario Poplar trees which stood in a neighbouring garden, some 20 ft. or 25 ft. distant, had worked their way down to the depth ot some 5 ft. to 8 ft., and had completely disinte- grated the concrete. The roots were mostly ot very fine texture, some mere fibre of no greater substance than human hair, and a few larger ones as thick as a man's little finger, all entwined in the concrete. The soil was a cold clay, and an experienced horticulturist assures me that although the roots of Poplars traverse strata which would repel other trees, yet they generally strike only to a shallow depth. In this instance the roots had devoured all the lime in the concrete in the lower part, which was crumbling away. The upper part, where no roots existed, was per- fectly sound. Instances of strong roots throwing down walls are not uncommon, but I find on iuquiriug of experienced men that the insidious work of these distxnt trees is unusual. The new foundations, &c., have all been executed in Portland cement concrete at a considerably greater depth than before, and warniog given to the occupants of the adjoining garden. Jan. 11, 187f>.] THE GARDEN. 29 THE INDOOR GARDEN. NIPHOBOLUS HETERACTIS. Untortcnately this elegant aud free-growiug Himalayan Fern has been distributed under the erroneous name of N. Heteraohis. We say unfortunately, because it is exceed- ingly difficult to displace a false name after it has once got into general use. This error probably originated in a slip of the pen, and although very slight in appear- ance, it so completely alters the meaning con- veyed by the correct name that it is all the more desirable to correct it. The name Polypodium Heteractis was given by the late Professor Met- tenius (Linnaji xxxvi. p. 140) to this plant, in allusion to the diversity of the rays of the starry scales with -which the under surface of the frond is furnished. Fur- ther, it is by this charac- ter, as well as the differ- ence in the size and shape of the fronds, that N. Heteractis is distin- guished from the .Japan- ese N. Lingua. These stellate scales are scat- tered over the dense in- dumentum or pubescence common to both species, and are quite visible to the naked eye, and they are probably imperfect sori. The fronds of N. Heteractis are larger than those of N. Lingua, being often 18 in. long, including the stipes, and the blade is more or less rounded at the base, instead of gradually ta- pering downward into the stipes, and it tapers into a tail-like tip. Altogether it is a more vigorous plant than its Japanese congener, and is a native of warmer regions, being found at low elevations in the Himalayan moun- tains, and also in Borneo. Mr. John Smith has somewhere given this Fern the name of Nipho- bolus latus, but I cannot find that this name was ever published with a description. Indeed, it does not occur in his last work on Ferns, and was probably given only to dried specimens which he at some period distributed. Niphobolus Heteractis was sent out by Mr. B. S. Williams, of the Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, iu 1876, and the accompanying engraving was prepared from a plant in his possession. W. B. Hemsley. and sandy. From snoh a position as this the eoil does not become sticky, wet, or harsh, from too much watering or drought, a circum- stance not to be lost sight of when selecting soil for potting. Mphobolus heteraclis, Epps' Pottingf Soils. — Mr. Epps, Vauxhall Station, has sent us various samples of psat, loam, and sand, of good quality. The peat is obtained from some high-ljing land abounding in common Fern, or Bracken, and Scotch Fir plantations, the subsoil of which is dry TEMPERATE OR INTERMEDIATE HOUSES. I DOUBT if there be any kind of plant structure capable oB affording so much real enjoyment as that whijh is commonly termed the temperate or intermediate house. In it we may assemble many and varied types of vege- tation, as the temperature which has to be main- tained therein will be sutfioiently high to insure the well-being of many natives of tropical lands, whilst, at the same time, a considerable portion of the inhabit mts of the cooler regions will be benefited by the slight stimulus which they will receive therein during the colder months of the year. The temperate house will range during winter from between 56° by day and 45'-' by night ; it should not be more, and may occasionally be less without fear of in- jury. In this gentle warmth, Cinerarias, Cy- clamens, Roses, Deutzias, bulbous plants,and a host of others may be for- warded into bloom. Palms, Ferns of many kinds, Aralias, and other fine-foliaged plants, will also flourish under such conditions, and many species of Orchids will find a congenial home therein. Such a house may be kept gay from November till June. The best form for a house of this kind is a span-roofed one about 12 ft. in width. This will afford space for a 3 ft. path and a 45 ft. stage on each side. Ample ventilation should be provided at the top, but a single board to open the length of the house will suffice for the admis- sion of air at the side. If the house is to be em- ployed in summer for the growth of such plants as require a comparatively moist, close atmosphere, such as Ferns, Dracasnas, &c., then a flap here and there in the brickwork will be all that is needed. Houses of this descrip- tion are not only useful, but may be made to assume an orna- mental appearance during the winter months. In order to attain this end, a selection of plants should be made which will afford considerable variety of form and colour. In many plant structures, the path on each side is bounded by a brick wall, on which the stage rests ; but, in the present instance, I would recommend that it should be supported by light pillars, thus leaving an open space under each stage whicn will be found useful. The constant moisture and filtered light iu such f!0 THE GARDEN. [Jak. 11, 11:79. a pliice supply just the conditions in which many Ferns delight. If the surface be covered -svith a sufficient fjuantity of rough, fibrous peat, in which exist pieces of sandstone, clinkers, and other drainage material, Selaginella denticalata and other species of Olub Moss, Maiden-hair and other Ferns, may be planted, and will flourish and form a verdant carpet, pleasing to tlie eye, and in every way preferable to ugly brick walls. In the way of flowering plants we shall find that double Primulas anS Epiphyllums do remarkably well in the gentle warmth afforded them in such a house. The Primulas should occupy the lightest situation, and if placed upon inverted pots so as to slighlly raise them above their associates, they will flower freely the whole winter through, and as they combine soft pleasing colours with considerable elegance of foliage, they will fully deserve the prominent positions thus accorded them. Epiphyllums may be grown either as pot or basket plants ; they are beautiful ia every way, but they show them- selves off perhaps to the bast advantage when well established in baskets and hung up near the roof. Being naturally of a pendulous habit they lend themselves well to basket work and display themselves better than when below the line of vision. Linum trigynum and Pentas carnea are both free- flowering subjects and easily managed. The latter is too seldom seen in cultivation ; it is of very easy culture, flori- ferous, and the bloom is of a soft and delicate hue. Bulbs of all kinds, Cinei'arias, Deutzias, Spirasis, &o., will succeed ex- tremely well in an intermediate house, and will develop their flowers in a much more perfect manr.er than when subjected to the more hurrying influence of a strong or forcing heat. In selecting plants which are remarkable only for beauty of foliage we must choose those which possess distinct and characteristic features. Amongst Palms we find types possess- ing grace and elegance, whiLst in the large and varied family of Dracaenas may be found examples of massive, sturdy deve- lopment, the effect of which is enhanced by a free and grace- ful outline. To the merits of the Fern tribe it is scarcely necessary to advert. They increase every year in form, and no plant structure, in which a miscellaneous collection is grown, can be considered complete without them. Had we nothing but these three families upon which to rely we should have no difficulty in producing a good effect. Well growns pecimenslin O-in. pots of Areca lutescens and aurea, Seaforthia elegansand robusta, Chamasrops excelsa, Phoenix dactylifera, Livistona borbouioa, and Corypha australis, look well if placed here and there at intervals so that each plant may be distinctly seen. Dracasnas, Aspidistras, and the more robust-growing Ferns, such as the Alsophilas and Dioksonias, should also occupy pro- minent positions. Around and amongst them will be arranged the dwarfer forms of Ferns, flowering and other plants, so that the whole space may be fairly covered without any undue crowding. Additional interest may also be given to such a house by the introduction of such kinds of Orchids as will thrive in the temperature maintained in it. If there be a back wall, it may bs draped with Fions repens, andTropreolums of the winter-flowering section may be trained up the rafters. Nothing gives a better finish to a plant house than a few hanging baskets well established with suitable subjects, such as Goniophlebiura subauriculatum,Davallias,AdiantumCapillus- Veneris, Platyceriura aloicorne, Oolumnias, Russelia juncea, &o., whilst a few Orchids, either on blocks or in baskets, will still further increase the effect. Plants of a drooping character, such as Isolepis gracilis and the variegated Panicum, may be so placed as to partially drape and break the rigid edges of the stages, so that by a skilful disposition O- the plants there need be but little of the interior of the structure visible. In such a house as that just described one would not natu- rally attempt the culture of such plants as Ixoras, Crotous, &c., but as I have endeavoured to show there are plenty of beautiful subjects that will enable us to dispense with their presence. J. Oorxhill. Justicia speciosa a good Koom Plant. — At this season of the year I find this to be a most uaefal plant for the decoration of drawing rooms. The flowers, individnally, do not last long, but as they open successively in profusion, even in rooms, they are invalaa- ble. Their ^oolonr (parpliah-pink) aasooiates well with that of Begonias and similar plants. The best method of cnltivating this Jasticia is to insert onttings of it in March, and grow them in a cold frame daring the summer months. Early in autumn transfer them to an intermediate house. A mixture of loam, peat-mould, and sand, with a little rotten manure, suits it well, and 5.in. pots will be found the most convenient for decoration purposes. — A. HossACK, Rayletj, Alcester. HEATING AND VENTILATING IN COLD WEATHER. I place these two in juxtaposition for the obvious reason that the one forces heat into glass houses and tho other lets it out. This statement, however, by no means includes all the uses of either heating or ventilation, but it places the two main purposes in direct contrast and striking opposition, and this view of the matter needs to be constantly enforced. Much of the waste of excessive heating, most of the evils of reckless ventilation, originate from the lack of a proper adjustment between the two. Economy, as well as the well-being of all plants under glass, pleads that no more heat should be given than is necessary ; not only is all excess of heat superfluous, but it is also in j nrious. It weakens, enfeebles, and discolours plants in flower, and invites the inroads of instcts and the attack of disease. All this is bad enough, but still worse results mostly follow excess of heat. Hardly has the temperature been found to be too high, than much or little of the external air is suddenly admitted to lower it. This seems such a simple and natural operation that it is performed almost me- chanically,and very much as a matter of cour8e,yet few things are more dangerous and inj urious to plants than this sudden lowering of artificial temperature in cold weather by a rush of external air. The plants are thus subjected to a severe draught, and catch cold as suddenly and se- verely,though they bear it more silently than we do ourselves. Unfortu- nately, too, they do not show the injury at once. Thousands of plants are crippled and finally killed by chills, though the cause ia never suspected, and no injury may be manifest till months after, wards. It cannot, I think, be too often repeated that warm air is moist and that colJ air is dry. No sooner does the hot air rush oat through the open ventilators and the oold air rush in than the latter fastens on every flower, leaf, and stem, and remains sufliciently long on each and all until it has quenched its thirst. The quantity cold air can thus drink up out of those delicate surfaces and sub. stances may be measured almost to a nicety by the dif. ference between the internal and external temperature. The greater the disparity the more the air drinks and vice versa. Hence the superlative importance of so nicely adjusting artificial heat to the internal wants of hothouses as to ventilate but little, if at all, in oold weather. But then there are those sadden gleams of sunshine that often violently disturb the temperature of oar glasshouses even in winter. Thses matter little. With the careful regulation of fire-heat on rational principles, with an eye to the probabilities of sunshine, no injurious amount of heat is likely to come from the latter ; in fact, a rise of 10" or even 15° of heat from solar influences is not injurious, but often the contrary, and those who think other, wise may safely try such advances of temperature in their own practice. They will assuredly find that such, or even greater, advances of temperature by solar heat will at least do far less injury to tender vegetation than the sweeping down the temperature by an inrush of cold air and an outrush of hot air. Much has also been written on the absolute necessity of a change of air in glass houses. Heterodox as it may appear to many, I have no hesitation in assert, ing that such necessity has not been proved, and, had it been so, it may be contended with equal force and truth that such changes are always being affected without our aid and in spite of our hindrances ; for, whatever complaints may have been made against the want of auffioient ventilation in some of our modern glass houses in summer, no cultivator has yet found fault that mechanical ingenuity, close-fitting workmanship, or large panes, has made his glass house too close for winter or early spring. The chinks in the roof bo much desiderated — for the colouring of Grapes — will not be held to be equally useful for the swelling of winter berries, or the forcing of flowers or Grapes at Cbristmas. As new plants need more heat, give less outside air in winter. Indeed, conservatories, greenhouses, and, assuredly, plant stoves and orchid houses, may be almost hermetically sealed from November to February, not only with impunity, but with mani- fest advantage at all times and seasons when the thermometer falls below 45". Such practice would out down the coal bill by nearly a half in many gardens, while it would also preserve the plants in more robust health, and help to clothe them with greater beauty. D. T. Fish. Alsophila pigmeea. — This is a charming miniature species of Tree Fern, and a most beautiful subject for table decoration, although Jan. 11, 1879.J THE GARDEN. 31 I fear that it is at present too rare to be ranch employed for that purpose. The stem ia very slender, and the fronds of a lustrous green are disposed in the most graceful manner. It is altogether a gem amongst Ferns, and one which should find a place in the most select collection. Never attaining great dimensions, it is admirably saited to small houses, and, when placed in a prominent position, cannot fail to command admiration. — J. Cornhill, Byfieet. HEATING SMALL PLA.NT HOUSES. Abverting to the remarks of "A. D." respecting this subject, allow me to say that I have a heating apparatus which I have found most convenient and economical. It consists of two 2-in. iron pipes (a flow and return) running along under the front stage of the green, house, and connected by small pipes with a gas boiler which is en. closed in a brick chamber in one corner of the house. A small iron door in the outside wall of the house communicates with this chamber, and a zino pipe carries the fumes from the chamber to the outer air. The burner used for the gas is an atmospheric burner with a ring of jets, such as is used for cooking, and this is sufficient to maintain in my little house (8 ft. by 6 ft.) a temperature of from 1 5' to 20 above that of the air outside, and with a greater length of pipe it would efficiently heat a house double the size. I have at times used this apparatus for a fortnight at a time without further attention than keeping the pipes filled with water, and its management ia so simple that a lady could use it without soiling her fingers. In laying on the gas care should be taken that all pipes out of doors should be of iron and of sufficient bore to obviate the risk of any water that might accumulate in them getting frozen in hard weather, and a syphon should be provided in the lowest point of the gas pipe to allow of snch water being removed. W. J. T. Brixton. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE INDOOE GARDEN. Solanuma Best in Poor Soil.— Some of these most useful plants for winter decoration, which were grown in rich soil last year, made plenty of wood but did not form half so many berries as those growing in very poor |soil. In future I shall therefore give prefer, enoe to soil poor rather than rich. — Cambrian. Primula sinensis fimbriata. — Primnlas are often raised in too high a temperature. Those plants are best which are brought on steadily from the time the seeds are sown till the plants bloom. There ought not to be any necessity to pinch cfE premature flowers, as such flowers plainly denote misdirected force, and are out of place. A warm greenhouse, or a slightly heated frame of about the usual greenhouse temperature, say about 50'^ during the night, will bo quite warm enough to start the seeds. The young plants should be pricked off, when large enough to handle, 2 in. apart, and placed in the same temperature again, keeping them shaded for a few days, but moving them to a light position near the glass as soon as the roots have fairly grasped the soil and feel at home in it. When fit to transfer to single pots, a frame should be arranged for them in some open sitna. tion, with 4 in. of coal ashes in the bottom to set the pots on, and to keep out worms. The frame should be kept close for a few days, and then have ventilation, increasing in amount as the season advances. The plants should stand thinly, so that their crowns or whorls of foliage may have room for development, and be potted on as they require it, giving the last shift to the early.blooming plants about the end of August, and the late ones in September. It is best not to over. pot, aa large plants can be grown in 6 in. pots. A mixture of loam and peat or leaf.monld suits them well, with a sprinkling of sand or charcoal dust to insure porosity. A larger proportion of loam may be used in the last shift than in previous ones, but it must ba fibry, and simply broken up, not sifted. The watering must be care, fully done, especially for a few days after being transferred to fresh pots. The plants may be left in the cold frame till October, when they should be taken to a greenhouse ; and the flowers will be finer if a little fire-heat be used to keep the air in circulation, and to permit of the free admission of fresh air when not absolutely freezing or very windy. In a low temperature in winter damp is apt to lodge on them, which induces decay about the crown, often damaging the flower-spikes and foliage. Late-sown plants are best to save seeds from, and the best flowers only should be selected. A light position in a cool, dry house will be best for seed purposes, and a camel's-hair pencil should be used daily when the pollen is dry. The best strains are, as a rule, the least prolific seed producers. — E. Hobday. NOTES FROM KEW. Hardy Plants. — Owing to the late severe weather there is a geneial dearth amongst hardy flowers compared with the correspond, ing week last year. The only plant attractive here is the charming little Milla Leichtlici, which is both new and rare. Its flowers are just peeping above the soil from a rosette of narrow leaves. Tbey are about the size of those of the better known one-flowered llilla (II. uuiflora), but white, with faint, radiating, green streaks; and they are, moreover, delightfully fragrant. It is found at high ele- vations on the Andes. A few kinds of Crocuses are yet in flower, notably the deep orange. coloured C. vitellinus, a native of Syria, which is pre-eminently the best of all the winter-flowering kinds. It has been continuously in flower for several weeks, even striving to push its way through a covering of snow. C. syriaons much resem- bles it, but differs in having the outsides of the flowers striped more or less distinctly with black. Though known as long ago as the days of Dean Herbert, these are as yet very rare in gardens. .Another fine kind is a form of C. Boryi, named Itevigatus, which differs from the type in the flower being suffused with purple, andbeingfeatheved on the outside with black. It is a native of South East Europe. C. Schimperi (syn. C. cauoellatus) is pretty, having long, white flowers with a basal zone of orange colour. C. longiflorus (syn. C.odorus) is a better known kind, but none the less desirable as it continues to throw up its mauve-coloured blossoms for a long time during late autumn and winter. Turning to the Christmas Roses we see here that ere long a recently acquired, and, we should say, a complete col. lection will be a source of much interest to those who caie for this class of plants. The only kinds at present in flower are H. altifolius, and a fine e-itample of the ordinary kind, and also the not showy but handsome-leaved H. fcetidus. Greenhouse Plants. — The conservatory is now beginning to assume a somewhat gayer appearance by the introduction of the various kinds of spring, bulbous, and other forced plants. Two showy Acanthads are made free nse of, and are well adapted for the pur. pjse, viz., tho old Justicia speciosa, a profa.sa fljwering kind, with violet-coloured blossoms, and Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana, a plant with peculiarly. motled stems terminated by a one-sided raceme of long, tubular, scarlet blossoms. Seneoio Ghiesbreghtiaua, is a handsome Groundsel with large, coarsely-toothed leaves, and dense dusters of bright orange flower heads. In one of the Camellia beds ia a finely-flowered specimen of the lovely Nepalese shrub, Luculia gratissima. It wonld be difficult to conceive a more desirable winter- flowering plant than this when seen covered with large clusters of delicate pink blossoms, which yield a delicious perfume. It. is, more- over, very easy to manage in a cool, airy house, though difficult to propagate. Another old favourite is Leschenaultia formosafrom New Holland. Oestrum aurantiacum, an old introduction from Guatemala, deserves more extended cultivation than it receives, as it is oue of the most useful greenhouse plants we have, and is speci illy adapted for training to rafters or pillars. It is an evergreen with long ter. minal racemes of rich orange blossoms, tubular, and about 1 in. long, flowering from October till February. In the central bad is a remarkable Australian Protead (Banksia coUina), bearing numerous dense cones of curious, brownish. coloured flowers. The winter giirden, tio, will soon be enlivened by an almost endless variety of winter, flowering Acacias, and a host of other Australian plants. The only kind at present which attracts atteution is the old A. platypterafrom Swan River, with its curious flat stems, which do the service of leaves. Coprosma lucida, a large evergreen shrub from New Zealand, now forms a very interesting object, the stems and branches being thickly covered with small reddish-orange-oolonred berries. Stove Plants. — In the T range the first plant which claims attention is Erythrotis Beddomei, which makes a pretty basket plant with slender stems covered with silky brown hairs, and small llatly- arranged leaves, hairy and green above, dark purple beneath. The flowers are borne at the tips in clusters, the petals being pale violet, the very hairy stamens blue tipped with yellow anthers. It belongs to the Spiderwort family, and ia found on dry, bare rocks, at 3,000 to 1,000 ft- elevation, on the Myhendra Mountains of South Tra- vancor. Jatropha podagrica, a native of New Granada, is of quaint aspect, with large gouty stems and crooked leafless branches termi. nated by a cluster of small scarlet blossoms with golden stamens. Aphelandra nitens, from Guayaquil, and aurantianca, from Mexico, must be placed as front rank species cf a showy genus. Both are strikingly similar in form and colour of the flowers, which are cf a dazzling scarlet borne on erect spikes, but the former differs by its shining, bronzy leaves, whilst those of the latter are variegated with silvery markings. Behind these a comparatively small specimen of that most graceful of all Palms, Cocos Weddelliana, is flowering freely ; though rather inconspicuous, and not of uncommon occur- rence, we take the opportunity to advocate its claim to more ox- 32 THE GARDEN. r Jan. 11, 1&79. tended cultivation a3 a decorative plaLt of the higbest order, more especially for indoor table adornment, as it ia of easy culture, and retains its small state for some years. Rondeletia Backhousiana is a useful winter-flowericg shrub of rather coarse habit, bearing large, terminal clusters of tubular, blueh-colonred blosBoms. It is a native of Tropical America. In the adjoining compiitment Bf gonios are abun- dant, and, aa most people are always on the outlook for desirable ■winter.flowering plants, the following selection may be relied on as answering the purpose satisfactorily. The well-known B. nitida, with blush. coloured flowers, and a kind named here a^ a near ally to it, are robust and very free-flowering ; B. falcifolia has flowers of darker hue and spotted leaves ; B. eemperflorens, odorata, and suaveolens, pure white ; B. incarnata, and Lapejioasi with pinkish. coloured blossoms. Centropogon Lucjanus i3 nt>t nearly so well known as it deserves; though of stiagoling habit with long, po'nted, finely-toothed leaves, the upper third of the stems produces in continuous succession numbers of its long, curved, tubular blossoms of a delicate rose colour very useful for catting purposes. It is also very interesting as being one of the few generic hjbrids in cultivation, it being a cross between Siphocampylos betulaafolius^and Ceutiopogon fastuosus_ It was raised at Marseilles about twenty years ago. Linnm trigynnm anativeoE the Eait Ii dies, tVoigh it has bceu iogarceis for well, nigh a century, is also too little known, for few plart^ ran surpass it when covered with its large salvei-staped golden blossoms, as we see it here. The white vaiiety of Poinsettia is tsed here with good effect, the cream-colonred flower.leaves associating admirably, and toning down as it were its Irilliant scarlet congener. In the Cactus house several kinds of Aloe are floweiing, viz., A. plicatilis, with curiously-arranged leaves in a fan-like manner; A. socotrica aibores- cena and pluridens, all very similar in form and colour of flowers, which is of a reddish-orange, and very handsome. Overhead, trained to a rafter, is a climbing kind, A. ciliarig, with flowers resembling the others, and tipped with green ; they are all natives of the Cape. Agave schidigera is a very remarkable plant, with the edges of its Bword-like leaves beset with short, curly, silvery threads. Its flower epikes rise over 5 ft., on which are thickly arranged, greenish, coloured blossoms, with six long, dull purple stamens. One or two succulent plants illustrative of the arid reaiou of Mexico are flower, ing freely, viz.. Cotyledon fulgens and retu^a, both with very glau. cous stems and oblong leaves and terminal clusters of orange. scarlet blossoms of thick texture and very ornamental. W. NOTES OP THE WEEK Scented-leaved Pelargoniums in Hanging Baskets. — These form, at the present time, a striking feature in the Crystal Palace at Sydenham. The plants are growing in large wire baskets suspended from the roof, and are allowed to droop naturally and gracefully all round the baskets. Being kept free from dead leaves, they thrive luxuriantly, and, on account of their elegant, deeply. cut foliage and sweet scent, they rank among the best of basket plants for winter decoration. Ornithogalum thyrsoides.— This is now producing, in Mr. Ware's nursery at Tottenham, fine spikes of pure white blossoms, which at this time of the year are valuable for many purposes. It thrives well in pets in any moderately warm house, aud would make a good plant for forcing into bloom at Christmas, a time when good white flowers are valuable. Genetylis Hookeri. — In the large collection of hard-wooded plants in the Victoria Nursery, Holloway, none are more attractive at the present time than large sjeeimens of this Genetylis. It flowers earlier than G. tulipifera, and is more showy and easier to cultivate. It lasts in flower for several months in succession, and its bright red, bell-shaped blossoms are shown off to good advantage among white Cyclamens, white-flowered Jasmines, and similar plants used at this season of the year for conservatory decoration. Hoss-Clad Tree Terns. — Bare stnmpa of Tree Ferns, in Mr. Day's garden at Tottenham, are effectively clothed with Selaginella denticulata. It is planted in the soil round the bases of the Ferns, and encouraged to grow round them, which it does rapidly, provided the stems of the Ferns are kept constantly moist. Komulea Macowani. — My pits, in which was a collection of the rarer kinds of bulbs, had been snowed up for a fortnight, so that I could neither admit light ror air ; but after the severe frost a thaw set in, rapidly melting the snow and ice, and on opening the frames I was agreeably surprised to perceive large flower buds on Romnlea Macowani. They are brownish-crimson when closed, resembling, in that respect, those of the brown-striped yellow Crocus. On the first sunny day they opened, and showed a bright yellow star.shaped flower aa large aa a half-crown piece, the cup being a little darker in colour than the rest of the flower. I am led to suppose that the plant will be quite hardy, and although, when without protection, it may not flower quite so early, yet it most be classed amongst our earliest spring-flowering plants, and it is one which will be greatly appreciated. Iris Histrio, close by, will not be in flower for from fourteen days to three weeks yet. — Max Leichtlix, Baden Baden. Barkeria Skinneri. — This is becoming a scarce plant even in nnr. series, a circumstance to be regretted, for when well grown and flowered, as we find it in Mr. Day's garden at Tottenham, it is one of the most attractive of winter-blooming Orchids. Its flowers, being of a rich violet or purple colour, form a striking contrast to the pure waxy blossoms of Odontoglossum Alexandras, of which there is now a good display in the garden in question, Freesia rtfracta alba.— This ia an excellent plant for the decoration of conservatories at this dull season of the year, and it ia also well worth cultivating for the sake of its flowers in a cat state, for, being wh'.te and sweetly s enlel, they are, 'useful in bouquets or other floral decorations. It is a p'ait that is eisily cultivated, and one which will thrive in a cool frame or greenhouse. It may now be seen in good condition in Mr. Ware's nunery at Tottenham, some plants of it bearing numerous graceful spikes, each of which ia furnished with from seven to eight flowers and buds. The flowers also possess the desirable property of lasting for a long time in per- fection after being cut. Orchids at Holloway. — At this season of the year when flowers are in most demand but comparatively scarce, a good display of Orchids, such as may be found in Mr. Williams' nursery at Holloway, is doably valuable. Among other attractive kinds are banks o£ Calanthcs, Oncidium biforum, furnished with gracefully arching spikes of golden. yellow, orange. tinted blossoms, fine varieties of Lycaate Skinneri, the brilliant Sophronitis grandiflora, Odontoglossum Cer. vantesi majua, the graceful sweet-scented Oncidium cheirophy Hum, and the chocolate-flowered 0. nevadense. To these may be added well-flowered examples of Angrsecum sesqnipedale, and a variety of Lady's-slippers ; these being associated with Ferns, Palms, &c., a fine effect is produced. Masdevallia Tovarensis. — This is one of the best of the Mas. devallias for winter blooming. Plants of it, even in a small state, yield large quantities of pure white blossoms which are valuable in a cut state for bouquets. We lately saw numbers of well-grown plants of it in Mr. Day's garden at Tottenham, where, aaaociated with other Orchids of an attractive character, they were set off to advantage. This Masdevaliia may be grown in p)ts, but it is much miTe effective when cultivated in shallow pans. Habrothamnus elegans. — This is grown effectively in pots at Frogmore for decorative purposes. Plants of it are struck from cut- tinga in spring, potted into small pots, and kept indoors till the weather becomes mild, when they are planted out in the open ground for the summer. Their shoots are stopped several times daring the growing season, and in autumn the plants are lifted and potted in 6-in. pots, and placed in the greenhouse, where they become bushy and handsome, and bear a truss of blossom at the end of every shoot, causing the latter to aich in a graceful manner. Such plants are now coming into flower at Frogmore, where they are much prized for placing in vases and in rooms, or in the conservatory. Salvias at Frogmore. — These are largely grown here for sup. plying cut blooms in winter, nd also for furnishing specimens for antique vases in Windsor Castle, a purpose for which few other plants are 80 well adapted. They are struck from cuttings in spring, and planted out in good soil out-of-doors in June. In September they are lifted and potted, and removed indoors as soon as the severity of the weather necessitates such an operation. They are placed in empty fruit houses, or similar situations, as near the glass as is con- venient, in order to keep them dwarf, and to prevent the leaves from falling off. The first to bloom is S. splendens ; this is followed early in the new year by S. Heeri, and when this is nearly over in March, S. gesnerseSora comes into bloom, and thus a snccession of useful flowering plants is maintained from November till April. Variegated Pine-Apples. — Theae are nsed for room decora, tion at Windsor Castle. They are raised from suckers grown in 6-in. or 8-in. pots in bottom-heat, until they are large enongh for use, when they are placed on inverted pots near the glass in a slightly cooler temperature. Any one possessing a Pine stove or Cucumber pit, or any place in which a bottom. heat of from 70' to 76' can be maintained, with a moist atmosphere, may grow variegated Pines in perfection, and, when well grown, no plants are more distinct in character, or more effective. They last well in rooms, and, their leaves being smooth, they can easily be cleared of dost, which is unavoidable in such positions. Jan-. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 33 THE FRUIT GARDEN. THE KEFRIGEKATING FRUIT BOX. A LIGHT, portable refrigerator, for shipping fruit and vege- tables by southern growers to northern markets, has recently been invented by Sir. H. A. Due, of South Carolina. It con- sists of a box of light wood, lined within with galvanised iron, a space being left between the box and lining oi 1 in. or more, which is filled with charcoal or other non-conducting material. The box is provided with one or more shallow, movable ice boxes, made of galvanised iron, provided with handles, and an opening which is closed by a screw cap. The boxes are filled with broken ice, and closed so securely that no water from the melted ice can escape and injure the fruit. These ice boxes are of the same height as the fruit baskets or cups, and may be substituted for a tier of these, allowing one or more to be used, according to the requirements of the season, one, at the top, being sufficient in moderately warm weather, and as the season grows hotter one of the lower tiers of fruit may be replaced by a box. Fruit received in New York from southern points can, by means of these refrigerators, be safely re- shipped to Boston or elsewhere; the boxes being replenished with ice, it is ready for another journey. Before giving an opinion of this invention we visited several of the principal commission dealers in New York, and found that the represen- tations of the patentee were fully confirmed by those who had tested it, two firms, dealing largely in Strawberries, stating that fruit received in this refrigerator brought, on the average, 10 cents more a quart than that shipped in the ordinary manner. An instance was cited of a shipment made from Charleston so late as May 10, in which the Straw- berries i-eceived in Mr. Due's refrigerator aver- aged 23 cents per quart, while those carried in the steamers' ice boxes brought but 12 cents, the difference being due solely to the superior con- dition of the former. The cases are made square, or longer than they are wide. The one here shown is 28 in. square by 19 in. high, and is provided with strong handles which shut down flush with the sides; the cover, shown at the rear, is double, and filled in the same as the sides ; this is fastened down by screws with squars heads, which are countersunk. The ice boxes, one of which is seen at the right hand, are 4 in. high, of a size to fit the interior of the case ; the opening to admit the ice is about 3 in. across ; the cap is screwed tight by means of an iron rod, bent as seen in the engraving ; its ends fit into two holes in the cap ; when not in use this handle is removed and laid upon the ice box. A case holding 72 quarts, when filled and ready for shipment, weighs about 250 lb. Though Mr. Due has taken out a patent for the invention, he liberally allows us to say that he will permit anv fruit grower to make the box for his own use without exacting a royalty for his patent. — "American Agriculturist." A Rtfrigerating Fruit Box. TRANSPLANTING LARGE-SIZED WALL TREES Wall trees of large size are easy to move compared with other trees not so circumstanced. It is an easy matter to untie or unnail a tree from the wall; to carefully secure its branches with strong, soft matting, so that they cannot chafe or injure each other by friction during the process of removal ; and then, when the branches are made safe, to commence far enough away from the trunk, 6 ft. or 8 ft., according to the size of the tree. Dig a deep trench, so as to get beneath the roots, and then gradually work upwards to the trunk of the tree with the fork, picking out the soil carefully, and working it back out of the way with a shovel, so as always to retain plenty of room in the trench. There is nothing shows the skilled workman more than little matters of this kind, keeping the trench well open when digging up or removing a large sized tree. Unless this is done, there is no chance of getting properly under the tree, and saving intact most of the roots. Indeed, unless the roots can be saved free from blemish, it would be hardly worth while taking pains to save long roots at all ; but when plenty of good roots can be secured, and the transplanting is done in autumn, very few of the trees so moved will feel any the worse for it ; and, if their systems were the least bit out of order, they will probably be all the better for the change. I have said large wall trees can be moved with much greater ease and certainty of doing well than untrained trees. One of the main causes of this is, they can be so easily secured from wind- waving after planting by attachment to the wall. I have no doubt in my own mind that the principal cause why large- headed trees fail in transplanting is the difficulty of securing them in their new positions so that the roots may have time to get a firm grasp of the new soil. Where the trees on the walls are all doing well, of course most people would say, leave well alone ; but there are times when the removal of a largo tree would in various ways be a manifest advantage. Perhaps the trees on a particular wall may have been originally too thickly planted; and, in order to give space for individual development, a re-arrangement must take place, involving the removal of some, if not all of them. Or a tree occupying a prominent position may become weakly, or be worn out, and trees are like men, some wear out faster and earlier than others, and their removal be- comes necessary ; and if by a rearrangement of the others the blanks can be profitably filled, it is always well to do so, although of course the labour involved will be very much more than just merely planting a young tree would be. But a man who takes a pride in keep- ing his walls well filled up, unless his hands are needlessly tied,will gener- ally so arrange his work that the labour and time are forthcoming. It often happens that a tree showing symptoms of weakness, the first signs of which are easily detected by the watchful eye, will on removal to a fresh site be restored to health and fruitfulness. I know, in my young days, there was never an autumn passed without the walls being looked over and the trees put right. From my experience then and since, I know the system to be a good one if rightly carried out. But the earlier it is done the better ; indeed, it would be imprudent to delay it much after Christmas. The roots should bo carefully ar- ranged, first cutting out all damaged or mutilated portions, making the cut as nearly straight across as possible. When a long cut is made, the descending sap will not be arrested till it reaches the lowest extremity of the wounded surface, and the callus will be formed there, and roots protrude, long before the upper part is healed. But if the cut be made straight across, the wound will heal at once, and be covered with a new growth, and tufts of new roots will soon be emitted. I have generally found a sharp pair of pruning scissors answer well for this work, as they cut straight across, and, so far as my experience goes, do not seriously injure the bark. It is a common practice in tree planting, to lay the roots all out straight in one layer ; but with large trees, that have been, perhaps, once or twice lifted previously, and where the roots are numerous, they will be far better if distributed more equally in the soil. The lower tier of roots should be spread out first, and covered with good mellow soil, and then another layer regularly disposed, and so on till the work is completed. Even where the soil is suitable and in good order, it will be very beneficial to add a few barrowfuls of fresh, mellow, turfy 34 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. soil round the roots, to give them a quick start. The trees should only be loosely secured to the wall for the present, as time must be allowed for settlement before they are finally trained. I don't think it a good plan to plant too near the wall ; the base should be allowed plenty of room to increase in size. It is common enough to see trees almost bursting from the wall by the swelling of the trunk at the base, through being planted too near the wall. Before planting, the bottom of the hole should be made quite firm, and have a very slight fall to the front; but it need not be much, as the roots are always ready enough to acquire a downward tendency. By covering the roots with good mellow soil, no harm will be done by apply- ing a little pressure with the feet before the levelling is finished, and the surface should be well mulched with half-rotten manure. It is a good plan to have a few young trees coming on, to fill up any vacancy that may occur at any time. If there should be no vacant places on any of the walls, where a young tree or shrub may be progressing till they are required, they will do very well trained to stakes in any vacant spot in the garden. It is far better to do this than to have to run to a nursery and take the chance with others, when trees are wanted. By buying a few " maidens" occasionally, plenty of good trees might always be ready when wanted. E. Hobday. OUR SUPPLY OP APPLES AND PEARS- It is tte opinion of some, that the production of Apples and Pears in the United Kingdom has ceased to be a matter of much importance, now that the Americans can pour these fruits into our markets and shops so speedily and in such large quantities. Fruit is now sent on to us some seven or eight thousand miles across the Rocky Moun. tains, and three thousand miles by sea, in good quality and condition, in a comparatively few days ; and that certainly may be ranked among the facts that are stranger than ever fiction anticipated. Our French neighbours also cultivate these fruits to make up the deficiency of our home produce. It is well that these sources can be looked to for a supply of wholesome fruits, which in the case of Apples can be purchased at a rate that enables the frugal peasant and artisan to enjoy thoir tarts and puddings. The question, however arises. Ought we to be so dependent on foreign sources for a full supply of these fruits ? This, like every other question, has doubtless two sides to be looked at; but our object at present is not to discuss it in the ab- atract. Our conviction is, however, that our home production might be much more satisfactory than it at present is, even in spite of many adverse circumstances. Some have assumed and tried to prove that the climate of this country has changed so much for the worse that Apple crops are not now what they formerly were. This we believe to be an assumption that has no foundation either in statistics or any. thing else, and is repudiated by the recognised fact that drainage and high cultivation have had rather a beneficial influence on our climate. Be that as it may, we have no more doubt that many districts in the United Kingdom could be made much more productive of these fruits without entrenching on lands remunerative in other ways, than we have of our own existence. The question may be asked. By what means ? Of course, to begin with, by planting more trees. This may be met with the assertion that there never were so many trees raised and planted as there are in these times — a statement that may be true. But is it not near the truth that much of the planting might as well be left undone, and many of the trees might as well be bnrned, for any share they have in increasing the supply of fruit. We must of course endeavour to give reasons for this last assumption, as it may be termed. In the first place, we have never yet had to do with Ap. pie and Pear trees in any district, without having the fact, that the supply of fruits in five years out of six has been borne by a compara- tively few sorts, very forcibly illustrated. This observation is not by any means singular to any cultivator ; and we believe if it were more carefully considered, and only those productive varieties planted all but exclusively, the bulk of fruit produced in a great number of lo. calities would be increased fiftjfold. As an instance of this fact, we now practice it in one of the very worst spots that could be chosen] for hardy.fruit culture — i.e., a low damp valley close to a river, with a heavy soil on a clayey subsoil, and an average rainfall of fifty inches, and where spring frosts are very prevalent. Yet only twice in ten years has the yield of Apples not been sufiicient for the supply of one of the largest establishments for three mouths, and from comparatively few trees— under what we consider adverse circumstances — in the vegetable garden alone. We are now so well acquainted with the few varieties and trees that are productive, that we could venture to point ont those that are likely to be fruitful the following season ; and the varieties could be more than counted on our fingers. If every tree in gardens were of these varieties, there would be supply enough for eight or nine months of the year. The blossom produced by other varieties is most encouraging, but their crop is almost always ju7. la it therefore not reasonable to expect, that if those varieties that bear thus were largely planted in this and similar districts, the produce would be much increased with the self-made labour in culture ? The same rule we have noticed to apply more or less to other districts. The indiscriminate planting of kinds not suited to localities has been found out by market-growers to be a great mistake, and they are now acting on the principle of selection. Another practice, and, considering its results, one that has been adhered to with an amount of tenacity that is remarkable, is that of planting Apples and Pears by the sides of walks, in what are termed cross-borders, in kitchen-gardens, and even dotting them about in vegetable quarters — the spaces of ground between trees in these po. sitions being frequently occupied with biennial and other flowering plants, and sometimes with Strawberries and vegetable crops. These borders, if devoted to flowers, are rarely properly manured , and are deeply worked with a spade annually among the plants, and close op to, if not over, the roots of the trees. If devoted to vegetables, they are, on the other hand, heavily manured and deeply dug. To escape mutilation, the roots of the trees, with a sort of self-preserving in. stinct, proceed to find peace and comfort in a too often unsuitable and canker-breeding subsoil. In the one case the roots are starved, and in the other too grossly fed ; and the respective results are stunted growth and poverty-stricken produce in the one case, and in the other too gross a growth of unfruitful wood, to be annually and ruthlessly cut away with the pruning.knife. Of these two evils it would be diSicult to say which is the worst or most unreasonable. Trees in such positions as the one named must of necessity be kept in very restricted limits as to size, or injury to the plants among which they stand would be greater than it really is ; and even with all the restriction practised, the one crop is most injurious to the other. To make matters bearable, the pinching and pruning are carried to an injurious excess every year, leaving as many knife-wounds as make it a wonder that decrepitude, canker, and decay are not still more frequent. The pruning of such trees, after the fashion of the present day, is an evil ; and it is to be feared that in not a few cases it is resorted to to permit of the other evil of making room for growing every conceivable variety in a given space, lloot-pruning every two or three years is perhaps the more reasonable course to pursue ; but if trees are to be grown with a vigour capable of bearing a full crop of good fruit, it is a process that can only be carried to a certain extent, and that not sufficient to do away, under the circumstances, with the murderous pruning which leaves trees more conspicuous for their number of knife-wounds than for anything else. This miniature-tree system, mixed np with other crops, is, generally speaking, not satisfactory. It is injurious to other kitohen.garden crops, and leads to so much cutting and restriction, that it never will admit of a satisfactory supply of fruit, even if the selection of sorts be ever so suited to the locality. In so important a horticultural matter as this, it is strange that we adhere so tenaciously to the mixing of fruits with other' crops : and the evil is most flagrant in what are termed the best of gardens ; and hence the faithfulness with which it has been copied. For those with only one small piece of ground there is some excuse if they desire a few varieties. But even in their case the trees would do better located by themselves. There is no serious reason that we know of why there is so much of . this mixing up of standard fruit-trees with kitchen-garden produce, instead of putting them by themselves, where they and the ground can be much more specially treated in accordance with their wants. By doing so, many telling advantages are gained for both depart, ments. The evils of digging in heavy dressings of rank manure, and of mutilating the roots of the trees, find no excuse, and can be en. tirely avoided. Neither need the trees be starved or injured by being improperly fed when they want extra nourishment. No spade or fork should be thrust among the roots of trees to dig in manure. A firm surface, subject to no more tillage than what will keep it clean, having the necessary manure spread on, inducing the roots to keep near it and be fed with the beneficial elements of, instead of coming in contact with, the manure — this way of managing the soil produces a more moderate growth, and altogether that state of health without gross, ness which is so desirable. Then the trees, to be worth the name, can have room and liberty to develop without injury to other crops and with benefit to them, selves. The pruning is reduced to a minimum sufficient to admit light and air to the various parts of each tree, instead of the stag's-horn style of pruning off almost every inch of wood made annually. The compromise between nature and art mutually working into each other's hands results in the building up of trees that frequently do more to fill fruit. rooms with fine fruit than when they are managed on the other principle which we are contrasting. Jan. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 35 Besides, trees in an orchard give an amount of shelter to each other that is an important factor in secuxing comparative safety from the blighting influence of winds, which do so much damage to the blossom. By observing these few cardinal points more generally — the proper selection of sorts, the orchard system of planting, natural root.oulture, and less pruning — much more and better fruit would be produced in a great many districts. The culture would be simplified and the la- bour lessened. On the other hand, the vegetable-garden would also profit by such an arrangement to no inconsiderable extent. This, coupled with the planting of many a nook of ground now not much batter than waste, would very much increase our home supplies, as compared to what is grown in gardens, making us more independent of foreign supplies of at least the commonest, though not the least useful, of these fruits, which it is desirable to make still more plenti- ful, cheap, and popular among our toiling millions. — " The Gardener." THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE VARIETIES OP DAMSONS. The Damson is one of the most popular and widely cultivated of English fruits. Many hundreds of acres of land in certain districts of the country arc devoted to its cultivation, but it is in our cottage homes, and in labour- er's gardens, that the Damson is most prized, the crop of this fruit being looked upon as security for the rent. The Damson is a true English fruit.^ It is not found in cultivation on the Continent, or elsewhere, excepting America, where it has probably been introduced from this country. Of Damsons there are several varieties, all originating from the wild Plum, Prunus iusititia. Bnglish Damson. — This is the most common variety, and is some- times called the Round Damson, Common Damson, Black Damson, &c. The fruits are 'small, roundish-ovate; the skin deep purple, or nearly black, with a fine bloom. Flesh greeuish-yellow, acid, almost as austere as a Sloe until quite ripe. It ripens early, and is a great cropper. Shropshire Damson, or Long Damson, Prune Damson, &c.— The fruits of this are much larger and longer than those of the common EngUsh Damson. It is of a long ovate shape, tapering mostly to the stalk; the skin thick ; flesh thick, adhering somewhat to the stone. This is a variety of excellent quality, and the best for making preserves, but it is not such a prolific bearer as the common. American Damson. — With this variety we have not much per- sonal acquaintance, having only fruited it one season. The fruits are large and round, the skiu dark purple, and slightly spotted with brown. Flesh greenish-yellow, adhering to the stone, juicy, melting, and sweetly flavoured. Mr- Scott, in his" OroharJist," says it is synonymous with Frost Gage and Frost Plum, and " is a Plum in much repute in New York market." It is rather a shy bearer. Crittenden's Prolific and Kochester Damsons are varie- ties of great repute in Kent, being of a large size, and very prolific. — "Florist." NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FEUIT GARDEN. Outside Vine Planting v. Inside. — I have two late Vineries chiefly planted with Alicante, Lady Downes, and Trebbiano. In one of them the roots are outside, while those of the other are inside. In the former I observe that the Alicantes keep plumper than they do on the Vines planted inside ; they are just now (Jan. -I) plump and good, while in the latter case they are shrivelling. I have this day tasted both, and I find the shrivelled ones the best as regards flavour. I shall bottle some of each and see which does best. — R. Gilbekt. Iiate Grapes. — It is well that all Grapes should now be removed from the Vines if possible, as reaction will soon take place should the weather become mild, and, it pruning be delayed, bleeding will be the result. Lady Downes should be cut first and put in the Grape room, and if that structure be too small to accommodate Black Ali- cantes, Muscats, itc, these may be left on the Vines for present use. — S. King of the Pippins Apple. — This is the best Apple which we possess ; it never fails to produce a crop. In the very worst of sea- eons it bears moderately well, and in good seasons abundantly. It is handsome in shape, good in colour, first-rate in flavour, keeps until spring is far advanced, and is equally good for dessert or cooking. — Cambrian. Concerning Pruit Culture.— The public roads of the late king- dom (now province) of Hanover are nearly all planted with Apple trees. The guardians of the roads are instructed, and take interest in their trees. They guard the fruit till ripe, when the trees are sold singly by public auction and the proprietor has to guard them and take the fruit down without damaging the trees. The money goes to the direction (office) of the public road. These trees give shelter, ornament, and fruits. To plant trees along railways has not been found practicable, by reason of the telegraph wires, &c. In the kingdom of Wurtembnrg (capital, Stuttgart) much has been done in this respect, and proposalshave been made to plant the side of the railways, but I do not know with what result. — Alfred FOX Seefeld, in " Dietetic Reformer." STEM ROOTS ON LILIES. On Dec. 21 (pp. 560, 561, and 562, Vol. XIV.), four columns were taken up by no fewer than six opponents, all writing in strong terms against my remarks on the subject of stem roots. With respect to their letters they are, oa some important points, so inconsistent one with another, that it would be im- possible to enter into anything like an intelligible or profitable argument on the subject. With regard, however, to them all, taken collectively, it is fortunate for me that " E. H. W.'s " important and opportune letter appeared on the same day (p. 560), as what he says may be taken as a comprehensive and conclusive reply. He tells us that he has recently visited Japan, and communicates to us some interesting " information about the habitat and growth of L. auratum in its native country." Among other things he says :— " The drying up of the sap in the scales and consequent exhaustion of the bulb's vital power is the real cause of the ' mop-like growth of stem roots ' so often seeu in late-potted bulbs that have been recently imported." He says further : — " Stem roots do not strengthen the bulb to any appreciable extent in storing up strength for another season, for on being taken up it is found to have dwindled to a mere nothing." This is strong confir- mation of what I have said over and over again, and to "London Stone" so lately as Dec. 7 (p. 50S). " B. H. W." also says :— " On healthy plants of Lilium auratum in their own country stem roots are present only to a moderate degree." In this country wo would say the same of L. bulbi- ferlim and the like, without further notice, simply because we do not make the stem roots of that Lily a nuisance by improper cultivation. Again, " E. H. W." says ;— " It vill never be found that a really healthy bulb of L. auratum, provided with abun- dant roots of its own, pushes stem roots in any quantity." Now, the reader cannot but see that this information has been communicated to us by "E. H. W." without the slightest bias one way or the other. What, then, have ray opponents said of me, because I have endeavoured to explain to the readers of The Garden substantiated facts which spoke clearly to the same effect ? " P. W. B. " says : " I totally disagree with ' Dunedin ' with regard to stem roots and their functions." He says more, but that will require a specific reply. " A. S. 0. N. " says : " If stem roots, when they occur in Lilies, do not assist in nourishing the flowers, what do they nourish ? " Mr. T. Smith says : " 1 shall require better argu- ment than any ' Dunedin ' has yet adduced before I commence to cut off the stem roots. If they are useless, why are they produced ? " " B. B. " says : " Will he (• Dunedin ') have us believe that Nature throws out stem roots, not only without any good purpose to serve, but for no purpose at all ? " Mr. Baines says so much, that it must stand over for another occa- sion. "London Stone" says: "I can only repeat that ' Dunedin's ' positive statement of the evil effects of stem roots is mere theory." Now any reader may easily see that these questions and remarks should not have been addressed to me at all, for the simple reason that " E. H. W.'s " letter shows clearly that they should have been addressed to those who, by their injudicious advice, and misdirected culture, encourage the growth of stem roots, to the ruin of the new bulbs. Even the Japanese themselves, from whom we have borrowed en-o- neous ideas, are now, according to " E. H. W.'s " letter, " thirsting for change and improvement, even greater than in Europe." It will, therefore, be indeed a great disgrace to us if we, for the sake of preconceived notions, allow them to go before us ; for they are, I hear, throw ing oil the inoubus_ called "The Perennial Theory." But I am doing injustice to " B. H. W. " himself, by not at once referring my opponents to his letter, and begging them to read it with care and con- sideration. If they do so, they will see that what they have written in favour of stem roots is very much calculated to injure the culture of the Lily. Dunedin. WUd Plants for the Flower Garden.— Allow me to thank Miss Hope for the information which she has given (p. 539, Vol. XIV.) respecting hardy British 'and other plants suitable for the flower 36 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. garden. AlbboDgh Valeriana Pha anrea oaanot be classed as a British plant, it does not seem to be very widely different from the common species known as V. officinalis, and as Hooker, in his " British Flora," intimates that there is considerable affinity between them, it is possible that if the latter assumes a golden dress it wonld be eqaally valuable. Miss Hope's remarks on Meum Athamanticam are also jast and true. I have met with it on the dry sandy banks abont a mile from the coast in a very robust form. For many years I used to cultivate the Helleborus fcetidns, and thought it bore no incon- siderable resemblance to an Eastern Palm ; moreover, it was a very convenient plant, and withstood winds and severe weather in an exposed vase better than any other plant with which I am acquainted. Could some one impart a silver or golden hue to its foliage it would be a grand plant. There is also a British Euphorbia of handsome growth; I am not certain of its epecifio name, but it is known in some country districts as Jacob's Ladder. The leaves on its stems intersect each other at right angles with mathematical regularity. I have never done more with it than encourage its growth amongst shrubs, but it might be advantageously employed elsewhere. Another class of plants might also be brought into requisition perhaps, and that is the Equisetums or Mare'a-tails; sometimes we meet with them in bouquets of flowers, and the singularity of their growth is at all times pleasing. Could one of these be induced to put on a yellow livery it would be received as a boon. Other wild plants, equally beautiful, might also be found. Some years ago an Oxalis, I think of wild origin, was admired by some, its foliage being of a bronzy. red colour, and Ajnga reptans rubra is assuredly also of British origin, and both plants had their admirers. Am I not right in supposing the Golden Pyrethrum of the present day also to be the offspring of a plant common in our woods ? — A Retired Gakdbneb. STOB^A PURPUREA. Me. Hemsley in his description of this plant last week (p. 12) says, "to grow it in perfection in the open air, some little attention is required as it is not perfectly hardy." Surely this must be a mistake. In February my first seedlings made their appearance, and as soon as they were strong enough to handle, they were pricked off into 5-in. pots. In these they grew rapidly, soon filling the pots with roots, and compelling me to have them potted off sooner than I had intended. The strongest were potted in 3. in. pots, the smallest in "stores," in which they remained until the latter end of April, when they were planted in the open ground ; they were dibbled in in the same way as one would do Cabbage plants, merely shading them for a few days, and I do not think that I lost one in a hundred. They grew rapidly, and by the end of June they began to throw up their flower-spikes; these were at least 3 ft. in height and bore en an average twenty. five blossoms on each ; they flowered beautifully and were the admiration of everyone, lasting in good condition for a month or six weeks. I gathered from them a good supply of seed and then left them to take their chance. During the whole of the first frost all the plants, both in pots and in the open ground, were unprotected, the pots being not even plunged. After the frost had gone I examined them and found thjm breaking up strongly from the bottom, some having three, foar,and even six crowns. I then thought it prudent to remove them in cise of more frost, so the pot plants were placed in a cold frame and those in the ground were covered with straw. I have examined them again to-day, and I find them, both in pots and in the ground, uninjured. Any plant that will stand the test of such a winter as we have bad and are still having, in such an unfavourable locality as that of Tottenham, must, I think, be perfectly hardy anywhere in this country. A. P. In November, before frost is probable, I lift them with the spade, and put them under the shelves of the greenhouse, and there, when they appear dry, give them a slight watering to keep them moist. I tried to leave them the year before last in the ground, being laid np in November by illness, and not confiding the tieatment of my plants to any one, but, as the winter was very damp, they were all rotten next spring. I think it, therefore, advisable to lift them, to preserve them from too much moisture and frost. As to the varieties named by Mr. John Cornhill, I must answer his appeal by giving your readers the names of a few of the best, and I will give them according to their height: — Barilleti, thebestof all as to foliage, seldom blooms, from 8 ft. to 9 ft. ; Auguste Ferrier, foliage also beautiful, from 7 ft. to 8 f t ; nigricans, brown foliage, 7 ft. to 8 ft.; Imperator, green foliage, 6 ft. to 8 ft. ; Jacques Plantier, green foliage, 6 ft. to 7 ft. ; insignis, green with brown, 6 ft. ; Depute Henon, green foliage, 5 ft. to 6 ft. ; Ma- reohal Vaillant, brown and green, 5 .ft. to 6 ft. ; Daniel Hooibrenk, green foliage, 5 ft. to 6 ft. ; Premioe de Nice, green foliage, 5 ft. to 6 ft., one of the best for blooming ; Jean Bart, brown and green foliage, abont 5 ft. ; Jean Vandael, brown with green foliage, 4 ft. to 5 ft. ;. EJoaard Morren, green foliage, large yellow flowers, spotted with dark orange, 4 ft. to 5 ft. ; Bihorelii, green foliage, free bloomer, 3 ft. to 4ft. ; Picturata Nana, green foliage, very free bloomer, 2 ft. to 3 ft. It must not be forgotten, that the mulching recommended by Mr. Cornhill is not sufficient, and that Cannas, to come to perfection, re- quire frequent watering with liquid manure, and what they like best is nightsoil, deodorised by means of sulphate of iron. Lyons. Jean Sislet. CANNAS ON THE CONTINENT. I HAVE read Mr. Cornhill's remarks on Cannas with much interest ; having considerable experience in their growth, I have no hesitation in saying that his instructions as to their treatment and propagation are correct. It is important that the soil in which Cannas are grown should be deeply moved, at least two spades or more, for although the roots do not go very deep, they require the soil to be light and well drained, notwithstanding their liking for plenty of moisture. It has been often stated that Cannas cannot be cultivated for several years in tho same soil, but that is a mistake. I have grown them for many years in the same place at the bottom of my garden, shaded by trees, and protected from wind. They grow with me most luxuriantly. As to wintering them, it is, as Mr. Cornhill writes, ex. ceedingly easy, provided they are protected against frost. I am not, however, partial to shaking off the earth from the roots. I have tried it, but have found that when I left the whole of the earth amongst and outside the roots, they were stronger the next year. £=Ij-A.TE CXjI2C. RHODODENDRON LEPIDOTUM. RnoDODESDRoxs, OF " Rose trees," are scattered all round the northern hemisphere, but the greatest concentration of species occurs in the Himalaya mountains, the home of the present species. Here they form a characteristic feature of the woody vegetation in certain localities, and especially at great eleva- tions. They vary from a few inches high, as R. nivale, t» 40 ft., with a trunk sometimes exceeding 14 ft. in girth, as- R. arboreum. The former is found almost at the extreme upper limits of vegetation of flowering plants, at least, having been collected by Sir J. D. Hooker at an elevation of 18,000 ft. R. lepidotum, although it does not ascend to quite so great an altitude, is an Alpine species, occurring between 8000 ft. and 16,000 ft., according to the nature of she locality, but it is most at home between 10,000 ft. and 15,000 ft. above the sea leveL Having so great a vertical range, it naturally varies considera- bly in stature, in the size of the leaves, and in other minor details. The forms R. salignum, R. obvatum, and R. elasag- noides, originally published as distinct species, have proved to be no more than varieties of one type. Each of these varieties, which are distinguished in the extreme states from each other mainly by differences in the foliage, varies in the colour of its flowers from yellow and pink through divers shades to dark purple. In all its numerous forms this species is charac- terised by having the upper surface of the leaves, as well as the lower, and the flower stalks, clothed with circular brown scales. It is also highly resi- nous, emitting a powerful odour under the influence of sunshine. In its upper habitats it is of a gregarious nature, growing 1 ft. or 2 ft. high, and extending laterally into large clumps. Lower down in the mountains it attains a height; of 4 ft. or 5 ft., but is of somewhat straggling habit, with naked, twisted, and crooked trunks and branches, terminating in tufts of slender branchlets. The leaves are clustered near the tips of the branchlets, and rising above the foliage are from one to four flowers. Several of the varieties mentioned above have been introduced into our gardens, as well as one called chloranthum, with pale yellowish-green flowers. W. B. Hemsley. [The plant from which the annexed figure was prepared was supplied from the Lawson Company's Nurseries, Edinburgh, where it is found to be perfectly hardy. It is a very free bloomer, having flowered in the nursery in question in a very small state," and most of the plants now in the open ground have plenty of flower buds on them. The severe frost which we have experienced this winter has apparently had no injurious effect upon them.j iSsafc*- ■ "^-f"^ Jan. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. Conservatory. More pleasure, as a rale, is derivable from a well.farnished con. seryatory during the next three months, than at any other time of the year, inasmuch as during that period there are less attractions in the outside garden. This is especially the case where the conserva- tory is attached to the dwelling, and, consequently, accessible without exposure to the weather. Everything pDssible should now be done to keep it as attractive as possible by means of the regular introduc. tion of forced flowers, prepared elsewhere, and the arrangement of them along with the permanent occupants of the house, in a way that will produce the beat effect. Atteation given to this is time well spent, for it frequently happens that with a moderate quantity of fine. leaved and flowering subjects judiciously placed, a much more artistic effect is given than in other instances where there is an nn. limited quantity of material at hand, but an absence of ability to use it to the best advantage. There are few matters connected with the ordinary routine of a garden, in which those in charge have a better field for displaying ability above that of the nominal plant grower, than in that of conservatory arrangement. There is no doubt that a good deal ot the effect possible to be produced, depends upon the in- ternal construction ot the building. To make anything like an effective arrangement there should be nothing in the shape of a fixed stage, as the presence of such prevents the possibility of effecting the requisite changes in the grouping, that from time to time should take place, so as to obviate the objectionable monotony of seeing a considerable number of the regular occupants of the conservatory always in the same position. During the next three months Camellias will play an important part ia the arrangement here, especially where there is a sufficient number of plants proportionate in size to the dimen- sions of the house which they occupy. If these be arranged so as to act as a background to forced Azileas, Cytisus racemosus, Epacrises, Correas, hardy shrubs, Cinerarias, Primulas, forced bulbs, standard Tree Mig. nonette. Salvias, Epiphyllum trnncatum, &c., in combination with Agaves, DracEenas, Yuccas, Cordylines, Dasylirions, Lomatias, Phor. mium tenax, Tree Perns, Cyoada, and Macrozamias, a collective effect may be made not easily surpassed at any season of the year. Where a goodsupply, in small pots, of Lycopodium denticulatum, Isolepis gracilis, and Centaureas, is at hand, they will be found most useful in hiding the larger pots. Roof Climbera. — So far as these are concerned, there are few that, just at the present time, will cjntribute much by their display of flowers, but they should be all cirefully gone over, and so far cut in as to prevent anything like crowding, or their spreaiing under the whole roof surface in a way that will too much exclude light. In securing them in their places, the objectionable practice of tying them in so tightly as to give the whole a stiff appearance should be avoided. On the contrary, a sufficient number of shoots should be left hanging in a pendant position to prevent this. Where insects of any descrip- tion are troublesome, they should be thoroughly cleaned while the plants are camparatively in a dormant condition. Fjr a like reason, and to enhance the general appearance, all the permanent occupants should, as often as time can be found, have their leaves sponged ; this is the more necessary at this season when the syringe and garden engine are better not used. Temperature and Air-giving. — The temperature ot conser- vatories should be from 46^ to 50^, in the night, according to the weather, with a proportionate rise by day ; this, as amatter of course, will necessitate an almost continuous use of fire-heat, to avoid the over- drying influence of which sufficient moisture must be given in the immediate vicinity ot the pipes, otherwise the air will get so dry that its effects are certain not only to be seen in causing the unex- pinded bads of Camellias to fall off, but it will also act injuriously upon other plants. Be very careful about the admission ot air, even at such times as the sun happens to shine out clear and bright, giving it, as tar as possible, at the roof. Much better let the thermometer rise considerably on the few occasions that it may be expected to do so for several weeks hence than admit a volume ot cold air in direct contact with the plants. Greenhouse. Where hard. wooded plants are only required for home decoration, and consequently there is no danger of the branches rubbing and chafing against each other when being moved the short distance they have to be conveyed fro n one house to another, no more stakes and ties should be used than are needful to support them in a form similar to that which each plant, according to its kind, assumes in a state of Nature. When plants are wanted for exhibition purposes they must of necessity hive the requisite qaantity of sticks and ties to keep their branches steady, or in transit the flowers are certain to be destroyed. This applies not only to hard-wooded greenhouse plants that usually come under this designation, but also to Cape Heaths and Azaleas; but, in the case of the latter, such tying as they require should never be deterred till this time of the year, being much better done towards the close ot summer, before the season's growth becomes solidified, as then the points of the shoots and foot. stalks of the leaves, whilst yet soft and flexible, will in a few days regain their proper position, from which, in the work of tying, they have been bent ; this will never take place it the plants be left until the wood has got hard and ripe— a circumstance which adds much to unsightly formality. Wiater-flowering Heaths. — As soon as these have done blooming, they should be at once cut back, so as to cause the principal shoots to break low enough to keep them from assuming the straggling condition they will get into if left to go on for another season without the last summei's growth being suffioiently reduced. Primulas.— Both the single and double varieties should, where possible, be kept in a light house or pit, where they can be accomo. dated with a night temperature of from 15' to 50', keeping them as close to the glass as circumstances will permit. The plants of the single varieties intended for later flowering should be some degrees cooler than this, and all mast be watered with care, as if the foot-stalks of the leaves get much wet they will be liable to decay. Cyclamens. — To grow these plants well they should be treated through the winter as to temperature much in the way recommended for Primulas, as, unless kept a little warmer [than an ordinary green- house, they will not grow or flower anything like what they are capable of. Keep a good look.out that there are no aphides upon them , otherwise they get established in quantity on the young advancing bloom-stems without being noticed, in which case they will cause the flowers to come deformed. Cinerarias. — If a sowing weremaie sufficiently early, and the plants have been well attended to through the season, they will naturally have come on into flower without anything above the usual greenhouse treatment, to which they should never be subjected, as even a very little heat injures them by destroying the under leaves and drawing the bloom-stems up thin and weakly, which spoils them for the general purposes of decoration, and it the flowers are wanted for cutting makes them comparatively worthless, as they flag directly. Keep the auccessional later. blooming plants as cool as possible, so that they are out ot the reach ot frost ; by this means they may be had to flower in good condition up to the middle ot May, daring which period they will be foand most useful, as thay tarnish shades ot coloar, especially blue, not only beautiful in themselves, bat sach as much enhance the effect produced by flowers of other colours with which they are associated, either in the oonserratory or in a cut state. Herbaceous Calceolarias. — Plants raised from seed sown last summer, and afterwards pjtted off singly, should at once be attended to by moving them into larger pots before their roots get at all confined, for if this occurs, the stunting influence will be such that they never afterwards can be induced to grow on freely, or to attain anything like the size and ability to produce such a qaantity of flowers as when encouraged by liberal treatment. It is seldom we now see these useful decorative subjects so we'l managed as they at one time were. If, as may be supposed, they are occupying 3-in. pots, a por. tion may be moved into others that are 4 in. or larger, in which they can be allowed to bloom. Those that are intended to have a second shift in addition to the present, may be transferred at this time to 6. in. pots. They delight in rich, light soil, such as i* composed of two parts good, free, turfy loam, with a third part consisting of equal proportions of leaf-moald and rotten manure, all mixed up with sufficient sand. In potting, avoid the extremes of leaving the soil so very loose as at one time was looked upon as conducive to their well- being, and also the opposite ot compressing it in the pots to that degree ot solidity neceesiry with Pelargoniums. The plants should hare a light position in a pit or house that can be kept at a tempera- ture of about 40° in the night, with a moister atmosphere than many plants require. Shrubby Calceolarias intended for flowering in pots should be similarly treated, but in practice I have found that these do better with pitting somewhat harder than the herbaceous species. Both should be from time to time examined to see that they are free from green fly, as, if this pest is allowed now to got established upon them, it will epoil the appearance of the plants, will weaken them by the destruction of the lower leaves, and be much more difficult to eradicate than if taken in lime. Where only a few individual plants amongst a number are affected, dipping in Tobacco water will prove an efficient means for the destruction of the insects, or they may be killed by fumigation, but, where this is resorted to, it will be safer to 38 THE GAKDEN. [Jan 11, 1879. repeat it Blightly several times than t.o subject the plants to a severe application, as they are maoh easier injured by Tobacco fumes than many subjects. Show and Fancy Pelargfoniums. — Plants of these that after being cat back were shaken oat and replaced in small pot9, if notal. ready transferred to those in which they are to bloom, should be attended to, as with them also, any approach to a root-bound condi- tion will stop growth and proportionately weaken their flowering capabilities; good turfy loam, of not too light a nature, well en. riohed with rotten manure and a little sand added, is necessary to grow these plants satisfactorily, and, in potting, the soil can scarcely be made too solid, by ramming it tightly in with the potting stick. When it is left too light, there is always an inclination to run too much to leaf, with a comparative indisposition to flower. As soon as potted, they should at once be tied into shape, avoiding the over- formality consequent upon the unnatural trellis style of training eometimes resorted to, likewise that which leaves the branches with so little support that the plants cannot be moved when in flower to wherever required, without the shoots falling about in a straggling unsightly manner. The fancy sorts, from their more sturdy growth, stand in less need of support, but both kinds should be trained sulfi. ciently open to admit of plenty of light getting to the whole of the leaves, aud to preserve a stont, bushy outline, which is their natural habit. Keep them, if possible, within a short distsnce of the glass in the lightest house available, and be careful for the next two months never to give water until the soil has got drier than it. would be ad- visable to allow it in the case of most plants. Chrysanthemums. — If cuttings of these are not put in, no time should be now lost. Choose shoots that are stout and strong and have not been drawn up weakly, for, though the latter will root freely enough, they are a long time before they acquire strength. I should not by any means recommend their being put in heat to induce them to root, as is frequently done, as this has a direct tendency to cause top growth, which it is most desirable to avoid until roots are formed ; the foliage made under such conditions is necessarily so soft and devoid of fibre that it does not admit of being kept alive on the plants, which leaves them bare at the bottom. They will strike easily but slower inserted in a mixture of one-half loam and sand, covered with ordinary propagating glasses in a greenhouse tempera- ture kept near the glass. It is advisable to see that they are free from aphides before putting them in. If the plants from which they are taken have been at all affected with these it will be better to dip the cuttings in Tobacco water previous to^insertion.j Orchids. Phajus. — P. albus and P. Bensonise, if not done growing, should be kept at the warmest end of the house, and supplied with sulficient moisture to maintain a healthy root action. Calanthe veratrifolia will, in most cases, be about completing its growth ; and the loam or peat, whichever it is grown in, should be kept only slightly moist. Such species belonging to the.families of Cattleya, Lcelia, Dendro- bium, Oncidium, and others, the growth of which is progressing at this season, and which, during that time, usually are removed to the East Indian house, should have as much moisture given to the roots as will assist them to complete their growth. Intermediate House. — A temperature of from 48' to 50° in the night for some time, with 5' or 6° more during the day, will be about the right heat. Most of the warmer section of Dendrobes now at rest will find a suitable place here. The large, erect-growing species, such as D. Calceolaria, D. Dalhonsianum, and D. Paxtoni, are not so much cultivated now as they used to be, no doubt on account of their tall, rather straggling habit, but even after being well managed so as to produce stout, fully-matured pseudo bulbs, they need to be well dried up to induce them to flower freely j the drying must be continued, without any application of water, right through the winter and spring till they show flower. If water be given pre- vious to this a considerable number of the buds will run off into growth. The increase of atmospheric moisture, with a higher tem. peratnre later on in the spring, will be sufficient to cause the bulbs somewhat shrivelled to plump up and get through the first stages of the flower's development without the application of water to the roots. The short, thicker.bulbed section of D. densidorum, D. Farmeri, and D. clavatum character, require a lengthened period of dry treatment at the roots, but their flowers do not run off into growth by the application of a little water at the roots if it becomes necessary to give this to prevent their shrivelling too much. The thicker.bulbed, drooping kinds, such as D. Wardianum, D. macro, phyllum, D. chrysotis, and D. primulinum, are all tree flowerers, and if they appear to be getting too much shrivelled may have now and then a small quantity of water gives them through the winter without its interfering with their flowering. The beautiful D. Falconeri requires well drying to induce it to bloom freely, and should have very little moisture given it before the flowers are unmistakably apparent or it will ran off into growth. The equally beautiful D. Devonianum, and a few others of like character, also nted a longer season of dry root treatment than most Orchids, but they commence to grow previous to the development of their flower buds, and require water to assist the growths in the spring before these make much progress. Cattleyas, Laelias, Epidendrums, Braesavolas, Brassias, Broughtonias, Barkerias, Anguloas, Miltonias, Chysis, Cycnoohes, Eriopsis, Gongoras, Lyoastes, Mormodes, and Oncidiums, with few exceptions, will succeed with similar treatment as to temperature and a moderately lengthened period of dry condition at the roots previous to the development of their flowers. Cool Orchids. — The house devoted to these should now be kept at from 38° to 45' in the night, and 5° or 6' higher by day, accord, ing to the weather. The principal plants to be considered in this department are the Odontoglossums and llasdevallias, both of which, but especially the latter, must never be submitted to drying treat, ment at the roots. The different other cool species that need total rest through the winter, during which time they require to be kept dry, may be treated in this way so far as will not entail much shrivelling, which is not likely to occur, as the atmosphere here will not be [nearly so dry as that where more fire heat is used. — T. Baines. Flower Garden. At this comparatively cheerless season, nothing renders a garden more thoroughly enjoyable than dry and neatly kept walks. Now is the time for making new ones and improving and renovating those already in existence. If the gravel be discoloured or Moss. grown, break it up with forks, and leave it loose until rain has fallen ; then rake it over and roll it down, when the walk will look as it fresh gravelled. Walks under the shade of trees and shrubs where there is no Grass to be killed, need not be broken up, as a sprinkling of salt will both kill the Moss and give brightness to the gravel ; but for use in open spaces salt is not to be commended, as, even with the greatest care, it frequently kills the Grass verges, and after a time it acts as a manure, and increases rather than diminishes weed growth. Levelling turf and relaying it should be forwarded as fast as the weather permits j also all grubbing, trenching, and alteration. Leaf dealing should ere this be completed, and now the shrubbery borders may have their annual pointing over, an operation which is necessary, not so much tor the beneflt of the shrubs as for the removal of weeds and the fixing of blowing leaves. Herbaceous borders are now look, ing weedy, and where, as is usually the case, such borders contain large clumps of bulbous plants, not much can be done to improve matters till these show themselves above ground, but as soon as they do so, contemplated rearrangement and division of the plants may be proceeded with, and the borders may be manured and dug as deeply as the occupants will permit. Several kinds of plants that have of late withstood our mild winters have succumbed to the late severe frost. Eucalyptus globulus, not protected, is quite dead, while those that were covered with Bracken are alive, so far as the protec. tion extended, and so are the Australian Dracaenas, which have stood out during the past four winters uninjured; those not protected are dead, but the others, though much injured, are alive ; it there, fore becomes a question how much frost can even a little covering keep off. Such covering should be applied now to plants that have weathered the storm, for their constitution being weakened, such another frost would be very likely to kill them. Roses do not seem to have suffered at all, but as a safeguard, the beds should now be thickly mulched with manure, which will also serve as protection. If the weather be open and favourable, the sooner all intended plant, ing of Roses is completed the better. Standards and others requir. ing support should be staked at once, to prevent injury from high winds, and the beds should ba mulched as before recommended. Beds of Anemones, Ranunculuses, and choice Hyacinths and Tulips that are peeping above ground will be all the better for a covering of Spruce or Laurel boughs laid thickly over them. Echeverias have suffered severely, and the reserve stock must be looked to, in order to see that no losses occur amongst them. All other bedding plants, more particularly those required in quantity, must be examined, and tender kinds introduced into heat for the production of cuttings. See that roots of Dahlias and Cannas are secure from all danger from frost J the middle of February is sufiioiently early to introduce them into heat.— W. W. Auriculas- — After the disappearance of the severe frost, and when the frames had been well opened up a few times, it was seen that quite halt the outer leaves of our Auriculas were injured ; these have now been removed, and only the centre tufts of late Jan. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 39 antamn.formed leaves left. Still admit plenty of fresh air, and remove the lights altogether during fine weather. Carnations and Picotees. — Ventilate frames in which these are growing, freely ; but let no rain fall upon the leaves. Raise the lights by tilting them on blocks, and in fine weather remove them. If there be any traces of aphides on the leaves, fumigate on calm nights until they are destroyed. A pair of sharp-polnted scissors is useful to cut off portions of decayed leaves. Plants in beds must be looked over oooasionally, and those not steady in the ground must be made firm by pressing round the base of the plants, and a neat stick should be placed to each in order to prevent any injury from high winds. DaUias. — The roots of these are sometimes injured by being stored in unsuitable places, such as those that are either close and damp, or too dry. It is well, therefore, to examine them carefully. I have seen a collection of fine sorts injured from the roots being quite dessicated by being placed too near the hot-water Pipes in a Mushroom house. Close, damp sheds, too, with a northern exposure do not answer. It the roots are not keeping well, look over them, re. move decayed portions, and place them in boxes in dry mould, removing the boxes to a Vinery, Peaoh house, or other structure from which frost is excluded. Hollyhocks. — The leaves of these in frames show the effect of the severe frost which we have experienced, therefore all decayed leaves and portions of leaves should be removed at once and air should be given on all favourable occasions, excluding damp. In foggy or close, wet weather, it is best to keep the lights closed, mould soon gathers on decayed portions and must be looked after. Plants in pots in houses from which frost is excluded are not likely to suffer any injury ; they must not, however, be allowed to become overdry at the roots. Pansies. — Favourable weather should be taken advantage of, to pot such plants as are intended for pot culture ; 6. in., 7-in., or 8-in. pots answer best, and either one of these sizes may be used.'according to the convenience of the owner. One plant, if large enough, will be sufficient for a pot, but small plants may be utilised by placing two or three in each pot. The soil ought to consist of about four parts turfy loam, one rotten manure, one leaf-mould, and one sharp sand. Press the mould in firmly with the fingers round the roots of the plants, and see that plenty of drainage is placed in the bottom of the pots. Polyantliuses. — These require similar treatment to Auriculas, but it is not well to allow the roots to become too dry. The trusses, too, are formed earlier than those of Auriculas. The plants require plenty of ventilation, and theleaves being more fragile and brittle than Auricula leaves, are also very liable to be attacked by insect pests. Red spider, thrips, and green fly attack them even in winter; these must be destroyed by washing the foliage and fumigating the frames. It is worthy of notice that the leaves are seldom attacked when the plants are in good health. Plants of these or of Auriculas in beds must be seen to, and if the roots be exposed, carefully dress the surface between the plants with light, rich soil, pressing down the plants rather firmly. J. Douglas. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — The earliest house will now be advanced towards the disbudding stage, and this should be done with judgment. As a rule, one shoot to a spur is sufficient, but where the Vines are a suffi- cient distance apart to permit of the full development of the extra foliage, two shoots are best. Keep up a genial average temperature of 65", and allow the heat to fluctuate somewhat with the outside temperature, and, if the Vines must be pushed on, let it be by day firing, accompanied by daylight, as it is only natural that Vines, like plants of other descriptions, should have their night season of rest, which can only be attained by keeping the temperature as low as is possible compatible with the health and due progress of the Vines. The roots of early forced Vines should be confined to inside borders, and when water is required it should be warm, say from 90" to 95° ; the warmth thus communicated should be retained as long as pos. Bible by immediately mulching with a thick layer of litter fresh from the stables, the ammonia arising from which will also supply an element as regards successful culture. Thus treat all borders now where the Vines are expected to produce ripe fruit in June next. Early Vineries that have outside borders should have been covered with straw. Bracken, or leaves early in October, to retain the heat deposited in them by the summer sun, and shutters or other covering should be used to throw off snow and heavy rains. In this manner a more equable temperature is maintained than by the questionable method of hotbed heating, the fluctuations of which are so great. If a bed, 2 ft. in thickness of leaves and stable litter, can conveniently be kept inside the Vinery, it will serve the double purpose of increas- ing the temperature and obviating syringings, and it will also help the expansion of buds. In mid. season houses, as soon as the fruit is cut, forthwith prune the Vines and they will go more effectually to rest. Indeed, to do them justice, all Grapes should now be cut and put in bottles of water j they will keep better if cut now than if left on the Vines another mouth. Any dry room in which a tem- perature can be kept above 40" is suitable for the purpose, and as much wood as possible, both behind and in front of the bunch, should be cut along with it to act as a deterrent to au overplus of moisture being communicated to the fruit. Pines. — Ripe fruit for the London season is generally required in quantity ; therefore Queens that are now showing fruit should be encouraged accordingly. Thus managed, they will be ripe from the beginning of May and onwards. A bottom-heat of 85° should be maintained, and an atmospheric heat ranging from 55" on cold nights to 75" or 80' ou warm days, should be kept up. To all plants show- ing fruit give a soaking with water at 80°, and they should not again be allowed to become dry, nor, on the other hand, should they be kept constantly wet. Any expected to show fruit, and that as yet manifest no signs of it, should be kept dry ; the check thus given rarely fails to produce the desired effect. Succession plants at this season require great watchfulness ; the weather. Laving been severe, has necessitated hard firing, and they will have become very dry, a circumstance which is apt to cause tbem to fruit prematurely. It is better to cover the pits with mats, &c., at right, thus 'not only saving firing, but inducing sturdier growth. Atmospheric acidity is a great foe to successful Pine culture. To plants swelling off fruit at this dull season afford every attention ; water with tepid guano water whenever they seem approaching a dry state ; a humid atmosphere of 75" is desirable, and all the sun and light they can get ; therefore, the glass should be kept scrupulously clean. Leaves for plunging preparatory to the general shifting which must soon take place, should be stored and allowed to consolidate. Soil should also be got under cover, and everything should be in readiness for action as soon as a mild period has arrived. Peach.es. — These do not like excessive forcing. Failure, or rather partial failure, has more than once been the result of attempting to force Peaches against time. The earliest houses are apt to drop their buds previous to expansion ; this is generally attributed to the trees having suffered from drought the previous season, but, though this may occasionally be the cause, a more general one is the undue ex- citement of the buds by beginning to force with too high a tempera- ture. Forcing should be very gradual till after the fruit is set, and then, if necessary, a push may be made up to the stoning period, when excitement again becomes dangerous, but, after that, hard forcing is safe enough. In starting to force a house, see that the border is thoroughly moistened throughout, and do not exceed at night 45°, and, as in the case of Vines, prefer rather to fire by day, with the accompaniments of light and air, than at night. Syringe night and morning trees, walls, and floors till the blooms begin to open, when a drier atmosphere is requisite. Prune late houses; wash or paint them over, as a preventive- against insects, with soap-suds. Tobacco water, and sulphur, made to the consistency of thin paint by adding clay or cow manure to cause adhesiveness. This done, top. dress the borders by removing all the loose, inert, top soil, and re- placing it with good loam, a little bone-dust, wood-ashes, or pounded charcoal. Peach borders in either early or late houses should never be allowed to get dry, and, if the drainage be good and there be a free outlet, there need never be any fear of the borders getting too wet. New borders in course of formation should be completed as soon as possible as it is quite time the trees were planted if good growth be desired this season. A good Peach.producing soil should consist of loam of medium texture, rather stiff than light, chalk or lime scraps, and charcoal. Manure, it required, is best applied in a liquid state when the trees are in full vigour. Strawberries, — Having no Strawberry house, our first batch (200) has been started in a pit filled with Oak leaves to create warmth. The plants are not plunged but simply set closely together on the bed; here they have abundance of air, and the crowns soon start into active growth. They are gradually removed from this pit to fill shelves in Melon and Peach houses, according to the expected demand, and now our first batch — Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury — is throwing up their flower stems most sturdily, a fact attributable rather to the strength of the plants than to the culture which they have had since being introduced to the forcing pit. Large, well- ripened crowns, constitute the acme of success in Strawberry forcing. At this early and sunless period, as soon as the blossoms open, artifi- cial distribution of pollen is requisite in order to insure a good set. Plenty of rariSed air is beneficial, and, indeed, necessary, but cold draughts prove fatal, and so does a muggy atmosphere. Keep the 40 THE GAEDEN. Jan, 11, 1S79. plants moist, and use for the present clear, tepid water only. Pro- tect the later plants from heavy rains and severe frosts. All bhould be honsed in cold pits, but, lacking that convenience, pinnge them in ashes or leaves, and cover with shutters or tarpaulin as may be required. Helons. — For froit required early in May sow at once, and, in order that they may germinate kindly, they will requiie a bottom heat of 80'. The seeds should be put in pairs in 3-in. pots, and, when up, the weakest plants should be destroyed. When town, as is frequently the case, a number o£ seeds together, the check caused by division is considerable. Grow the plants as near the glass and with as much light as possible. A shelf in a Pine pit is a much better position than if plunged in a bottom heat a long distance from the glass.— W. W. ROSES. SHIELD BUUDIKG AND GEAFTIKG. CnoosiXG THE Shoots prom which the Shield-buds are to BE Takex. — This choice is all the more important seeing that the constitution of the eye to be shield-budded bas a great influence not only on the vigour of the resulting Eose bush, but also on its inflorescence and longevity. An eye taken from a strong shoot, for instance, will cause a luxuriant growth of leaves, forming a bush with a beautiful head, but with very few flowers. An eye taken from the lower part of a shoot develops but slowly, and remains a long time dor- mant. A bud taken from the angle of the last two leaves imrnediately under the flower stalk of a Eose tree which, under ordinary circumstances, is intended for flowering purposes will, when grafted, induce a precocious inflorescence and interfere greatly with the growth of the Eose tree. As the flower is formed on the extremity of the shoot, the growth of the latter will be stopped and the sap will be sent back to feed useless shoots and growths. This description of bud is, however, sometimes used exceptionally, in order to produce several successive flower- ings in varieties which bloom with difficulty. It is, there- fore, mostly from the middle of the shoots that we must choose the best buds for shield-grafting. The shoots chosen should be healthy, sufficiently mature, and full of sap, and the buds themselves should be vigorous and well-formed, and of dimensions proportionate to the stock upon which they are to be grafted. We may always ascertain whether a branch or shoot is full of sap or not by its extremity being herbaceous and continuing to grow, besides which we may recognise the fact by the sap oozing out of the incisions made when we cut out, the shield-bud. Preparing the Stocks for Shield-budding.— If shield- budding is not performed upon the spot, the shoots chosen are cut off, and the top, which is generally more or less herba- ceous, is pruned away. The leaves are also removed, the lower half of the petiole alone being allowed to remain. The shoots are tied up into little bundles and numbered, and are either kept wrapped up in a damp cloth, or else their lower ends are plunged into a vessel of water, so as to keep them fresh and moist. These precautions are sufficient if the spot at which they are to be used is not very far off, or the time not very distant ; but if, on the other hand, they have to be used at a distance, they are piled up in gradually decreasing layers on a bed of slightly damped Moss, so that they may form a kind of cone or sugar-loaf, which is packed up in paper, and secured with string. If, after having cut off the shoots, we find any shoots with wrinkled bark, or with eyes which seem to be too small, they should be soaked in water for twenty-four hours, when the bark will become smooth and the buds will swell oat. When we have stock plants from which we can take the buds, it is a good plan to examine the shoots some time pre- viously, so as to know the exact condition of the eyes. If they be flat and small we need only pinch off the end of the shoots about a week before taking off the buds. This operation has the effect of sending back the sap into the buds, and of caus- ing them to swell out very rapidly, so much so that they will push into shoots if we delay cutting off the slips too long. Shield Grafting with a Growing Eye. — If, as we havejsaid before, the operation of pinching off has been properly carried out, and the shoots are sufficiently strong and solid, we may begin to graft in June, which will allow us later on to take buds with dormant eyes from the shoots of these grafts. In the climate of Paris this operation is performed at the end of June or duting the month of July. The two important con- ditions to be fulfilled is, to have subjects with healthy shoots, full of sap, and with well-formed eyes on the grafts. We may begin grafting even earlier than this if we chose our buds from plants which have passed the winter in a greenhouse. Some days before budding we choose a sufficient number of subjects for the purpose, bending down the shoots to be budded, and tying their tips to the stem of the Brier stock. By this means the sap becomes concentrated in the elbow of the shoot, which greatly favours the development of the grafted bud. A fort- night or three weeks after the grafts have been put on we must examine them to see if they have taken. We can easily judge whether this has happened by observing whether the petiole has fallen off, and the bud itself is quite fresh and green. If so, we may remove the ligatures so as to avoid undue com- pression and possible fracture of the shoots. As the buds grow into shoots we must pinch off the tops of all the shoots as soon as they are long enough. When the shoots of the graft have reached the length of 8 in. we may prune them back until only two eyes are left. With dwarf Eose trees we must bend down the young shoots and fasten them down bj' means of hooked pegs fixed in the ground. Grafting with a growing eye allows us to multiply new varieties with great rapidity, and is of good service when the frost has destroyed the grafts made with dormant buds. It is also useful for supplying us with shoots for budding the grafts of the year before. Shield-Grafting with a Dormant Eye. — This kind of grafting is carried on in the neighbourhood of Paris from the middle of August to the end of September. This period may be anticipated or exceeded according to the temperature. As in grafting with a growing eye, we must use shoots with properly-formed and healthy eyes, but the sap,iListead of being in full activity, ought to be rather on the decline. There must, however, be sufficient sap in the bud for it to take when grafted, but not enough for it to develop into a shoot. In this case the eye will lie dormant until the spring. In order to prepare the subjects to be budded, we must examine them a week or a fortnight before the time for grafting arrives, and pinch off the tips of all the shoots on the branches to be budded, as well as the smaller shoots. In the neighbourhood of the place where the graft is to be made, the shoots allowed to remain on the top of each branch must be reduced to two or three, rarely more. All the others must be cut down as they grow, otherwise the sap will receive a check, wasting itself through the wounds of the cut branches. It is better to leave them as they are than to interfere with the flow of the sap. The shield-buds should be placed at the angle of the stem and the shoot, two or three on each subject, according to its health and the number of shoots which have been allowed to remain. When a subject has only one branch fit to be grafted with a shield-bud, we may graft it a second time by placing another shield-bud on the opposite side of the stem to the first one. If the branches left are too weak, we may graft two shield- buds on the stem itself underneath the branches, as shown in Fig. 24, A and B. In the case of dwarf Eose trees, we should graft two shield-buds on the lower part, about 3j- in. from the ground, as shown in Fig. 24, but, in order to succeed, we must have young subjects with smooth bark. When the shoots o£ the grafts are well forward the ligature is taken off, and the branches and upper portion of the stock at C, as shown in Fig. 24. In the other cases the stems and branches are cut off just over the bud, which is immediately above the last graft. This shoot is destined to bring the sap into the branch, and provide food for the buds. It is cut off along with the part of the stem upon which it grows when the buds are old enough to take care of themselves. Having pruned the branches, we must protect them from being broken by the wind with sticks of 1 ft. 4 in. to 1 ft. 8 in. in length. The stick is placed against the base of the branch, and it ought to be 1 ft. taller than the last bud. As the shoots increase in size they are trained against the stick, by which means we avoid the danger of breaking them or tearing them from their position. Jan. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 41 PrsceiNG Back the First Shoots. — The end to be aimed at ■durinj^ the year which follows the operation of shield-grafting is not so much that we should obtain a number of flowers, as that we should form a Kose bush with a good head. We must not, therefore, hesitate to pinch back the new shoots to within three leaves of the top, whether there is, or not, any provision for flowers, as soon as ever these shoots have reached a proper size. The sap is checked by this operation, and is thrown into the side shoots, causing them to swell and very frequently to yield a mass of flowers that will fully compensate us for the loss of the earlier flower buds. Collar Grafting. — The third method of shield-grafting consists in opening a small trench along the line of the sub- jects about to be grafted, so as to lay bare their bases, which must be well cleared of mould with the fingers. Two or three Fig. 24.— Gratiinf; by Doable Shield-budding. shield-buds are then grafted on the principal roots at the spot where they join the stem. Before the cold weather sets in, indeed, as soon as the grafts have taken, the ligatures are re- moved and the trenches are filled in, so that these grafts are not uncovered, or the_ trees pruned, until the first fortnight in March, by which time there is generally no longer any danger of frost. By this mode of grafting it becomes easy to obtain free stocks, especially in the case of Hybrid Eoses, by means of the roots which spring from the collars of the graft below ground. This modification in the method of shield-grafting also places the buds beyond the reach of frost. It is by adopt- ing this method that the Rose growers of Lyons have for several years used young seedling Briers, upon which they have grafted their dwarf Roses, by shield-budding the collar of the root. This method gives very good results, so far as the growth of the graft goes, but in no way modifies the spreading nature of the Rose tree. We have been able to verify this fact at the establishment of M. Leveque, fils, of Ivry-sur- Seine, in the case of some Tea and Hybrid Roses which were grafted on some seedling Briers which were grown at Lyons. These Rose trees, which were growing in pots, had produced abundance of shoots from such roots as had touched the edges of the pots, and we even remarked some with a number of latent eyes on the collar below the graft, while on others there were shoots 1 ft. long, which had sprung from the collar by the side of the graft. It is, therefore, a mistake to suppose that by using seedlings we have in any way modified the inherent conditions of growth of the Brier, whose nature it is to reproduce itself by suckers which it throws off from all parts of its underground system, for we have only to divide the roots into pieces and place them in favourable conditions to obtain as many plants as there were pieces planted in the soil. In the mouth of March we take advantage of the fine weather to examine the grafts, prune down each shoot to within two eyes of the graft, and to take off all the ligatures. As for those subjects upon which the grafts have not been successful, we must cut down the shoots on the stem in order to promote the growth of fresh shoots, which may serve for the reception of fresh shield-buds. The other ordinary operations consist in placing training sticks, fixed to the tops of the Brier stocks, to serve as supports for the young shoot.s, which are tied to them with bast or rushes as soon as they are long enough, so as to protect them from the effects of the wind. While the young shoots are growing we must pinch down the shoots which spring from the two eyes left above the shield-grafts, as well as those growing on the sides of the stems, so that they may not draw away the sap from the grafts. Finally, when we desire that the shoots which have sprung from the stock should become sacrificed, we pinch them down to within about 5 in. of their base, but leaving the stumps which grow above the grafts until towards the months of August or iSeptember, that is to say, when they are ready for transplanting. M. Lachavme. THE ROSE ANNUAL. Mr. William Paul's Rose Annual for 1878-79 has just reached us, and fully equals its predecessors in point of interest. It contains coloured figures of Duchess of Bedford and Jean Liabaud (Hybrid Perpetuals) and of Madame Lambard and Souvenir de Madame Fernet (Teas). The letterpress treats of — 1, the current year ; 2, on new Roses ; 3, on Rose stocks ; 4, the Rose shows of 1878; 5, a mausoleum of Roses; 6, cor- respondence in reference to Roses. From these we select the following extract on new Roses. Of the novelties of 1876-7 we named Bome of the best in last year's Annnal. We now confirm tbat list, to which fnrther experi- ence enables ns to add the following : — Hybrid Perpetuals — Dachease d'Oflsuna, very bright and free in autumn, also distinct ; Emily Lax- ton, Gabriel Tournier, very fine ; Lady Mary Keith, Madame de Montchanvean, Madame Devert, Madame Sophie Fropot, Monsieur Fillion, and Bourbon, Queen of Bedders. Coming down one year (1877-8), we find some really valuable novelties, of which the fol. lowing seem the most promising. Hybrid Perpetuals — Dean of Windsor, Constantin Fretiakoil, Earl of Beaconefield, Alfred K. Williams Boieldieu, Edouard Pjnaert, Madame Jeanne Bonyer, Madame de Laboulaje, Madame Gabriel Luizet, Madame Louis Dona- dine, May Quennell, Mrs. Laxton, Penelope Mayo, Red Dragon, Rosy Morn, Souvenir d'Adolphe Thiers. Tea-scented — Madame Alexan- dre Bernaix, Madame Lambard, Madame Maurice Kuppenheira. The announcements from France this autumn are sufficiently nu- merous. One cultivator, Nabonnand, offers no fewer than thirteen novelties, and another, Eugene Verdier, ten, for which he asks 30 fr. each. This does not look as it the French growers had lost confi. dence in their new Roses, whatever the English growers may think on the subject. The foUowiug is an alphabetical list of the principal new French Roses of 1878.9. 1. Alpho.vse Kark — Tea-scented — (Nabonnand). — Growth vigorone; flowers large and fall ; colour purple, shaded with crimson, centres brighter. A seedling from Duchess of Edinburgh. 2. Barthelemv Levet— H. P. — (Levet). — Growth moderate; flowers large and full ; colour bright rose. 3. Claude Ber.nard — H. P. — (Liabaud). — Growth very vigorous ; flowers large, full, and globular ; colour deep rose. A seedling from Jules Margottin. 42 THE GARDEN. [Jan, 11, 1879. 4. Deuil du Colonel Denfert — H. P. — (Margottin pfere.) — Growth very vigorous ; flowers large and full ; colour velvety pur. plish black ; one of the darkest of this section. 5. DocTEUR Baillo.v — H.P. — (Margottia pure). — Growth very vi. gorons; flowers large and full, and very finely shaped; .colour bright crimson, shaded with purple. 6. DocTEUR Bertfiet— Tea-scented — (Fernet). — Growth vigorous; flowers large and full, opening well ; colour pale rose, brighter at the centre. 7. DoCTEUR Jenner^H. p. — (Margottin pere). — Growth vigorous; flowers large and full, with finely.rounded petals; colour carmine, red. 8. Francois Gaulain— H. P. — (.Schwartz). — Growth very vigo- rous ; wood smooth ; flowers large and full ; colour claret red ; one of the deepest-coloured Roses known. 9. Gaston Leveque— H. P. — (Levuque et Fils). — Growth vigo. roua ; flowers very large and full ; colour brilliant crimson, shaded with vermilion and fiery red ; one of the freest and most perpetual, flowering varieties amongst the Hybrid Perpetuals. 10. Henri Vilmorin — H. P. — (Levique et Fils). — Growth very vigorous ; foliage ample and showy ; flowers large and full, and of exquisite semi.globular form ; colour red, shaded with purple and vermilion. 11. I.v.vocente Pirola — Tea-scented — (Dacher). — Growth very vigorous; flowers very large and full with large elongated buds; colour pure white, sometimes tinted with rose; said to be as fine a flower as Niphetos, and a better grower. 12. John Saul — H. P. — (Ducher). — Growth very vigorous ; flowers very large, full, and globular; colour clear red, the back of the petals shaded with carmine. A seedling from Antoine Ducher, and a fine autumnal bloomer. 13. Jules Chretien— H. P. — (Schwartz). — Growth very vigo. rous ; flowers very large and full ; colour deep bright red, shaded with purple. This Eose has proved a good autumnal bloomer, and has been awarded two bronze medals. 14. Madame Augusts Perrin — Noisette Perpetual — (Schwartz). — Growth vigorous ; flowers of medium size, full; colour beautiful pale rose, the reverse of the petals whitish. Silver medal at Lyons Rose Show, 1878. 15. Madame Charles Meurice — H. P. — ^ (Levii'que et Fils). — Growth very vigorous ; flowers large and fall ; colour velvety blackish- red, shaded with purple. 16. Madame Etiennk Levet — Hybrid Tea — (Levet). — Growth vigorous ; flowers large and full ; colour cherry red, shaded with coppery-yellow. 17. Madame Eugene Chameetran — H. P. — (Gonod). — Growth vigorous ; wood smooth ; flowers large, full, and globular ; colour pale rose, shaded with salmon. rose. A seedling from Victor Verdier ; a good autumnal bloomer. 18. Madame Eugene Verdier — H, P. — (E. Verdier). — Growth vigorous ; flowers extra large, full, and with very large petals ; colour bright satiny rose, shaded with silvery rose. 19. Madame Lilienthal — H. P. — (Liabaud). — Growth very vigo. rous ; flowers large, full and cupped ; colour bright rose, reflexed with salmon. rose. 20. Madame Morane jeune — H. P. — (Jamain). — Growth vigo. rous ; flowers large, full, and cupped ; colour satin rose, brighter in the centre, and the backs of the petals silvery. Beautiful in bud, and a good autumnal bloomer. 21. Mdlle. BRicrrTE Viollet — Hybrid Tea— (Levet). — Growth vigorous; flowers large and full, produced in clusters; bright rose, slightly tinted with violet. 22. Mdlle. Lydia Marty— H. P. — (Liabaud). — Growth very vigo. rous ; flowers of medium size, full ; colour rosy flesh, shaded with lilac. 3 23. Monsieur Lapierre— H. P. — (Gonod). — Growth vigorous flowers of medium size and finely shaped ; colour shining red, shaded with velvety-crimson. A seedling from Geant des Bataillea. 24. Panachee d' Angers — H. P. — (Moreau.Kobert). — Growth very vigorous; flowers of medium size, full; colour pale rose, finely striped and marbled with purple and deep violet. 25. Pierre Caeot — H.P. — (Levet). — Growth vigorous ; flowers o' medium size, full, and finely formed ; colour deep red, changing to bright clear red. 26. Prefet Limbourg — H. P. — (Margottin fils). — Flowers large, full, and finely formed ; colour dark velvety red, shaded with violet. A good bloomer in summer and autumn. 27. Princesse Marie Dolgohouky — H. P. — (Gonod). — Growth very vigorous ; flowers very large, cupped, and finely formed ; colour bright satin rose, very often striped with carmine. A seedling from Anna do Diesbach. 28. Heine Marie Henriette— Tea— (Levet),— A red Gloire de Dijon of climbing habit, and with large and full flowers ; named, by permission, after Her Majesty the Queen of the Belgians. 29. Souvenir de Laffay — H. P. — (E. Verdier).— Growth very vigorous ; flowers of medium size, very full, and of fine shape, pro. duced in clusters ; colour bright crimson, shaded with purple, and with flery red centres. 30. Souvenir de Victor Verdier- H. P. — (E. Verdier). — Growth vigorous ; flowers largo and full ; colour bright scarlet, shaded with purple and crimson. A good autumnal bloomer. 31. Wilhelm Koelle— H. P. — (Pernet). — Growth vigorous 5 flowers very large, doable, and globular; colour very bright red. A seedling from Alfred Colomb ; of gooi habit, and flowering freely till late in the autumn. 32. William Allen Richardson — Noisette — (Ducher). — Growth very vigorous ; flowers large and full ; colour flue orange-yellow. Of my own introductions. Countess of Rosebery, Duchess of Bed- ford, and Souvenir de R. Dudley Baxter, it does not become mo to speak, their merits have been fully recognised by the horticultural Press. We also saw exhibited and thought well of Dr. Sewell and Harrison Weir. When to Prune Roses. — If we take the country collectively experience clearly proves that early pruning is anything but advi. sable, as when the shoots are made so early as to get injured by spring frosts, it has a serions effect upon their blooming : but where there is a large stock in favoured localities it may be desirable now to prune a few by which means, if they escape frost, the season's flowering will be extended by getting some blooms earlier than they otherwise would have been. — T. Baines. THE FROST AND THE THAW IN WALES. So tar the winter has been unusually severe for this part of the country. Daring the greater part of December we had nearly 20" of frost nightly, but for a few days before and after the new year a thaw came, and, as in Mr. Fish's case (p. 22) , the frost does not seem to have been so disastrous as might have been expected. My opinion, however, as to the cause of this, differs from that of Mr. Fish. The thaw itself was sudden and complete, certainly the reverse of gradual. Neither do I think the hoar frost kept the plants warm, but I am strongly inclined to think that the hot weather of last summer had rendered the frost powerless. I never remember seeing the wood of all kinds of trees and shrubs better ripened than it was last autumn. This was not only the case with fruit trees, but also with most tender shrubs, such as Myrtles, Hydrangeas, Camellias, &c. Not one of these has been protected, and yet they look as fresh now as they did in October. Two plants of the American Aloe have proved quite hardy on the top of two pillars where they stood all last summer fully exposed to the sun, but the other two behind a wall, quite hid from the sun, are killed. Broccoli behind a north wall are useless, while those in open quarters are as fresh as ever. Young Cauliflowers, raised and left on a fully exposed south border, look as well as ever I saw them in frames at this time of year. Others, raised in a sheltered spot, have all but disappeared, and in all direc- tions I observe that where every kind of plant was most exposed the frost has had least effect. I believe that had a sunless, wet summer preceded such a severe winter, there would have been more damage done to vegetation than has ever been heard of. It is, I think, a great mistake to plant tender plants in sheltered spots, shelter oftener doing harm than good. Cambrian. Th.e Late Frost ia Ireland. — From December 2 until Christ, mas Day we registered in the aggregate 382' of frost, varying nightly from 10° to 28-<, but reaching a climax on the nights of the 23rd and 24th. Ou the former night the thermometer fell down to zero, and on the latter (Christmas Eve) it indicated (about midnight) 2' below 0. On Christmas Day, however, a thaw set in, which is continuing. We had a depth (1 ft.) of snow lying on the ground, but we may, never, theless, expect to see many vacant places in herbaceous borders, and also amongst tender shrubs. — S. K., Templejicdriclc, Co. Antrim. The Late Frost. — It may interest some to know that on Christmas eve Negretti &■ Zambra's thermometers indicated — No. 1, 1" ; No. 2, zero ; the latter was about 100 yards from the other. — J. Laing, Stanslead Park Nursery, Forest Bill. Jan'. 11, 1370 THE GARDEN. 43 FLOWER FORCING IN MARKET GARDENS. Azaleas. — The demand for Indian Azaleas just before Christmas is very great, and thousands of plants are yearly imjiortcd from Holland and Belgium for forcing into bloom at that time. They arc, of course, grown in Holland in the open air, and after they have formed their flower-bads they are taken up and sent by shiploads to Loudon. Florists hero pot them and place them in heat at once, and bring them into bloom, for the quicker they are brought into bloom after being potted the more likely are they to prove remunerative, as, if left too long, the check they receive in transit and potting causes them to shed their blooms, often to a serious extent. Kinds with strijjsd, red, white, and crimson flowers are generally the most abundant, and single plants often bear several distinct- coloured flowers. The different varieties are grafted on stocks of a free-growing kind, and are on stems G in. to S in. long. Neat little jolants, 1 ft. to 1 J ft. high, laden with blooms (which, however, are usually much smaller than those 23roduced on English-grown plants), sell readily at from 2s. Gd. to 5s. each in the market retail. The chief advantage of imported plants is that they are much earlier in coming into bloom than English-grown plants. Of late years, however, some nurserymen have raised their own Azaleas, and they find them to he of a much better constitution than imported plants, and, by growing them in quaatity, they can sell them almost as cheap as if foreign plants had been bought. The stocks, which consist of a strong-growing, purple-flowered kind are struck from cuttings or raised from seed ; they are kept in cool houses in 4-in. pots, and in summer and autumn they are grafted with the best market sorts, and kept rather close until a union is eflected, when they are grown in an airy tem- perature, receive copious supplies of water at the roots, and iu three or four years handsome jflauts are the result. Several crowers devote large houses to specimen Azaleas for supplying cut blooms at Christmas and Easter, these being the seasons when they realise the best prices, and at these times they contrive to have as many plants in flower as possible. The old white variety is the chief kind grown, coloured flowers being little sought after in the market at these festive times. The American hardy Azaleas are not grown very largely for market on account of their flowers dropping so quickly after being cut, and their colours are not such as are generally sought after in the market. The improved A. mollis and its varieties have, however, better-formed and more wax-like flowers, which stand cutting much better, and these may probably be largely grown for the purpose when a good stock of them can be got. Among the most favoured kinds of Indian Azaleas for market purposes are the rose-coloured Bernard Andrei and its white variety. These are single-flowei-ed kinds, but of great decorative value ; the habit of the plants is good, and the flowers, which are freely produced, last for a long time in good condition. The best double kinds arc : Narcissiflora, very early and pure white ; Imbricata, -white, slightly flushed with pink; Borsig, large, very double, and of snowy whiteness ; A. RoUissoni, a good double, red flowered Alpine variety, will, when plentiful, probably be largely grown for market, both for the sake of its flowers (which resemble in appearance those of a Balsam) and as a pot plant; it is perfectly hardy and very floriferous, dwarf in habit, and altogether a desirable species. Camellias. — In the shape of plants. Camellias are not sold in the market in very large quantities. Now and then a few small plants, bearing some five or six buds or blos- soms, may be seen, but the chief use of the Camellia is to supply blooms during the winter months, and for this purpose its cultiare is both extensive and profitable. Where a house with a northern aspect can be assigned to Camellias, and they are planted out iu good turfy loam, and otherwise properly attended to, the yield of bloom on estabhshed plants is immense. The great bulk of the small plants of Camellias sold iu London are imported from Holland and Belgium. They usually arrive in autumn, when their bloom-buds are set, and these they sometimes throw off shortly after being in the hands of the florists. Imported plants, however, come into bloom eai-ly, and a few good blooms from each nearly pays for the purchase of the plants. Nearly every market grower who has a spare corner cultivates Camellias, and many of the indoor fruit growers plant them largely in late Vineries, which are capital jilaces for them. Mr. Yeldham, of Hammersmith, has a lean-to Vinery some 250 ft. iu length, the back border of which contains thirty-five fine specimens averaging from 12 ft. to 15 ft. high, and as much through. All blooms that arc suffi- ciently advanced are cut on each market morning, and on some occasions as many as 320 dozen have been gathered at one time. In early Vineries Camellias will not succeed, but in late houses they thrive admirably, the Vines aflbrd- ing them shade during the summer, and yet not obstructing light from them during the winter, when they are opening their blossoms. The old Double White is the only variety grown in this house, but a few good specimens of red kinds may bo found in other houses about the place. The chief points in the culture of the Camellia are good soil in which to grow, plenty of water at the roots, cleanliness from insects and black fungus, and, last, but not least, plenty of air when the bloom-buds are swelling. Camellias are always cut for market when about half expanded ; they have no stalk attached to them, as the florists in the market wire them, and in this way the flower really lasts longer than it would do on its own stalk. Cyclamens. — No plant probably has increased so much in public favour in so short a time as the Persian Cyclamen. For every plant seen in the market a few years ago from the time we write there are now a hundred. One of the most celebrated growers of Cyclamens is Mr. Smith, Ealing, who cultivates from 12,000 to 15,000 plants annually, and who has them in flower from autumn to spring. The seed is sometimes sown in autumn and sometimes in spring, as soon as gathered ; but the autumn-sown plants, if grown under favourable conditions, make flowering plants the quickest — and, as a rule, they flower best. The seed is sown in pans or shallow boxes, placed on a bed of Cocoa-nut fibre in which there is a gentle bottom-heat. The soil is kept continually moist ; and, to attain this object, some place Moss on the surface. In a month or six weeks the seeds germinate, and the boxes are then placed near the glass, still keeping them in a warm house. When the young plants have made bulbs they are pricked off' into other boxes of light, rich soil, the next shift being singly into 4-m. pots, and finally into 5-in. or G-in. ones. During summer they are grown in pits and frames out-of-doors, all the heat required being sujiplied by the sun. Plenty of heat, air, and moisture constitute the secret of success ; and, when in bloom, the chief enemy to guard against is damp. Perhajjs a more interesting display than Mr. Smith's plants make when in full bloom it would be difficult to find. They are kept in low span-roofed pits untU they come into bloom, when they are removed into light, airy, span-roofed houses, and placed in beds G ft. wide on each side of the jjathway, which runs along the centre. I have seen three or four houses 60 ft. long thus 44 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. occupied. The plants are flowered in 5-in. pots fifteen montlis from the time of sowing the seed, and sometimes the bulbs measure 2^ in. in diameter, whereas a few years ago it took several years to produce such bulbs. The improvement in the quality of the flowers, too, is quite as great as that in the culture. We have now flowers of remarkable size, and varying in colour from the purest white to the deepest purple, and many of them are deli- ciously scented. This improvement has been brought about by those plants bearing the most perfectly-formed and best- coloured blooms being yearly selected and placed by them- selves for seeding purposes, a way in which the strain is annually improved in quality. Some growers sow Cycla- men seed in January, and grow the" plants on rapidly through the summer, to form flowering plants in 0-in. pots by the following August, only nine months elapsing from the time of sowing to that of blooming. C. y\' . S. VIENNA. Public gardening and planting now being recognised parts of city improvement, any worthy eSbrt in that direction comes within the scope of Ti£E Gaede.v. Austria has been so unfortunate in recent wars, and is supposed to be in such difficulties financially, that its capital is not, at first sight, one in which great improvements would be carried on at present. And yet not in Paris itself is there greater evidence of healthy change. Indeed, in one respect it is far ahead of Paris, and that is in the building art. Though thisis somewhat out of our province, it is, iaevertheless, m distinct and superior in Vienna, that it would not be fair to the city to speak of its improvements without noticing the stately houses that border its new streets. Although many of its projected improvements are as yet nnfinished — a dozen Pall ]Malls might be stolen from Vienna and notbe much missed. The lover of progress loves to see any- thing supremely well done, and does'^iot mind if his idols or favourites are dethroned through the victory. He may well be pleased to see that while all the world is very justly talking of Paris and her improvements, Vienna has been quietly beating her hollow as far as buildings are concerned. The poor, cold, zinc and slate roofs of'' Paris with their pigeon traps on the top are intolerable to the eye fresh from the noble repose, ample and well-lighted upper stories, and rich, low, roofs of even second-rate streets in Vienna. There is something dangerous to the progress of architecture in France, owing to'the hard and fast rules which make the streets all alike— alike even in the meanness and narrowness of the houses. The new Continental hotel in Paris has been much talked of for the comfort^ and sumptuousness of its rooms and fittings ; outside it looks like any common building in the Rue^de Eivoh, no doubt owing to some rule preventing the architect making his house diff'erent from the others— surely one of the most silly rules ever submitted to by an intelligent people. Of course, it is possible to err in the other way, and allow a Hankey to erect a dreadful and over-topping pile right against our most precious public buildings ; but a happy mean might be found of allowing as mnch^rtistic variety as possible, and only excluding ugliness. In Vienna, while the height in most of the streets"' is uniform, there IS a pleasing variety of style. The great charm, however, IS getting rid of the old, high, sloping roofs with their nan-ow rooms or dens. The upper story is as good as any other, and the roof is at so low an angle that it is • not, as a rule, seen from the streets ; and when it is seen, being of richly coloured tiles, it is very different from the poor cold roofs of Paris and London. Our own feeble architects, who apparently try to console us so often for thin walls and poking rooms by turning the roof into a kind of slated cruet-stand, argue that their precipitous roofs of ugly slate are needed in our climate to throw ofi" the wet. Now Vienna is as wet as London and has very much more snow, which often falls there to a depth of 2 ft. and lasts a considerable time ; but the architects manage to make perfectly sound and dry roofs, low and very pleasing to the eye when seen. In the old part of the city steep roofs are seen with their many windows m the narrowing roof stories, so that this change, so desir- able from a sanitary point of view, has been effected in a place where the steep sloiaing roof was at one time con- sidered necessary. The public buildings are quite as remarkable as the private houses, there being five impor- tant ones now in course of erection, including a parliament house a hotel ue ville and two museums. The disposition of the streets, that correspond in import- ance to the frequented boulevards of Paris, is excellent, the Ring Strasso being about 150 ft. wide. This width allows of planting abundance of shade trees without inter- fering with the light or the appearance of the houses. In Paris the trees often interfere in both ways. In the large \ ienna avenues there is a wide footway without trees on each side, then a roadway mostly for the use of the house and local traffic, then two lines of trees with a smooth wide footway between them, and then a large open road in the centre for tramway and general trafiSc. It will thus be seen that the space between the houses consists of three carriage ways and four ample footways and four lines of trees — these forming a shady avenue for pedestrians on each side of the great central roadway. The street planting- is of the kind with which we are familiar in Paris. The public gardening of Vienna is, as a rule, blighted by the influence of the " French " school — the old deadly school responsible for clipped gardens. Schonbrunn and the Augarten are large spaces, called gardens by courtesy, but which are really garden-tombs — wholly devoid of a single quality of a real garden. The good Botanic Garden in one retired corner of the Schonbrunn Sahara modifies somewhat its sad impression ; but for unrelieved deadly formalism and gross stupidity of garden design, there is, perhaps, nothing in this world more dismal than the Au- garten at Vienna — a noble piece of ground with enormous walls of clipped trees only and long weary walks. Looking up from these walls, a narrow strij) of sky may be seen — no more. Between the high green walls there is a mass of attenuated scrub. The space is not only wasted itself, it is not only no garden, but it is so arranged that even the air (so liberal to the waste) cannot enter it freely; and there are no fine views which such an ample piece of ground might show of one of the noblest of cities. The much talked of Prater, a very large surface of ground, is the worst designed of any large park which we have ever seen — no breadth, no repose, no turf, no views, anywhere ; even the main drive through it is poor and narrow. As regards the Prater, all has to be done, andif simjjly and wisely designed it would make a noble park. There is a small English garden and lake laid out in it by a Frenchman some y^ars ago, but such is not the species of improvement required by a park of this character. A few bold and useful roads, wide, airy sweeps of turf, some shade where most required, and many groups and groves of hardy forest trees — the whole disposed by some one with a tine feeling for and knowledge of the elements that go to form "the most beautiful scenes of natural sylvan beauty, are what would Jan. 11, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 45 make the Prater worthy of so noble a city. Numerous as are the costly stupidities iu public gardens, in no other could there be found so poor in all that is essential to healthy pleasure or enjoyment as the Prater, Schonbrunn, and the Augarten. As for the smaller city gardens, they are formed on a different plan, and it is possible in them to see trees and flovrers in their natural forms, and also some verdure and variety. One small park, called the Stadt Park, seemed the most interesting ; it is well laid out, and has a great variety of trees and fine.foHaged plants and flowers. The most distinct feature ia these gardens is the dotting of many plants on the Grass instead of in beds, though there are flower beds too. This is a good system where carried out with some taste and tem- perance, but one very likely to prove unsatisfactoi'y where left to persons without a keen sense of what is best in such a plan. To succeed with it one should know how to secure great and bold variety while avoiding a mere accumulation of " dots ; " should feel the need of keeping ample foreground and suSicient breadth ; should hate repetition, and should have a delicate knowledge of grouping and placing the various objects, which could only be obtained from extensive acquaintance with plants both in gardens and in a wild state. That such hands were not the authors of much of the grouping here was but too clear ; some subjects like Dahliiis, of which one or two, or even three, groups or colonies would have looked charming and given character and variety, are repeated in some cases all over the jilace, so as to produce disagreeable monotony, while many kinds of plants of equal, or greater, importance are wholly absent. The ugliest things grouped in the above way are standard Roses, always offensive unless where the heads become so large and vigorous that one no longer notices that they are standards. MELON-CUCUMBERS. Of the immense vai'iety of gourds and other Cucurbits in culti- vation, few are known in a wild state, and there is little doubt that they are really the products of cultivation, and never existed Varieties of Melon-Cucumbers Raised from Seeds of a Melon. in a wild state. In fact, the same may be said of the varieties of most economic plants under cultivation. By some botanists, including Mr. C. Naudin, who has conducted a large number of experiments in hybridizing members of the Cucumber family, it has been averred that it is not possible to effect a cross between a Cucumber and a Melon. On the other hand, several supposed hybrids between these two plants have been exhibited or described from time to time, though, perhaps, not one of them is beyond doubt. The three fruits, of which sketches are herewith given, are the issue of a plant believed to be such a hybrid. The parent originated in Mr. Leclerc's garden at Epernay. Mr. Leclerc communicated the history of it, together with seed, to Mr. Carriere, the editor of the " Rsvue Horticole." In 187rt Mr. Leclerc bought a Cantaloup Melon at a fruiterer's in Epernay, and, as it proved a very good one, some of the seed was saved and sown. The first sowing was made in 1876, and of twelve plants two produced fruit resem- bling Cucumbers. Thinking it was the result of some mis- take on the part of the gardener, he had them uprooted before the fruit came to maturity. In the spring of 1877 another dozen plants were raised from the same seed, and Mr. Leclerc was very much surprised at the unusual length of the male flowers borne by three of them. One of these plants was sent to the Comte de Lambertje, and it bore three fruits. One of them was the shape of a hunting horn. It was cut before it was ripe, and it was of a woody consistence with an acid juice inside. The second was shaped like a large Cucumber, much swollen in the middle and at the tip. It was slightly curved, 5i centimetres long by 15 centimetres in its largest diameter. The flesh was pale yellow, slightly sugary, and had the flavour and odour of a Melon, with a decided after-taste of Cucumber. The third fruit was forwarded to Mr. Carriere, who communicated seeds of it to various distant friends with the request that they would cultivate some of them and watch the result. This fruit was very much curved and attenuated at the base, and 7i centimetres long by 10 centi- metres in its greatest diameter, and weighed about 5 lb. The skin was smooth, or here and there very slightly rugose, thin, very delicate, and of a rather deep yellow when ripe. The flesh was yellowish-white, passing into pale red towards the centre of the fruit, quite melting, very juicy, and having a very decided flavour of Melon, though leaving a bitter after- taste in the mouth. Seeds of thiswere sent to various persons, among others to Messrs. Vilmorin, and the progeny varied considerably, as the illustrations show. The surface is more or less smooth or ribbed, greenish-yellow, passing into a butter- yellow when ripe, and the flesh relatively thin, and of the nature described above. "Whether of hybrid origin, or the result of natural variation this is a very interesting phenomenon. One of the most singular facts connected with it was the pro- duction of normal and abnormal fruits from seeds out of the same fruit. W. B. Hemsley. Tomatoes. — I have just now a honaeful of these which have been in tnll bearing since last July. They are growing, flowering, and Betting just as freely as in the middle of summer. We use them occasionally for dessert ; in fact, I find them to be a most usofal addition to onr winter supply of forced vegetables. — R. Gilbert. The Negro French Bean. — I have been forcing this variety of French Bean for the first crop, and find that it produces at this dull cold time of the year larger pods than any I have yet tried. It like, wise sets well. The next variety which I force as a succession to it is Oaborn's Winter Forcing, another excellent sort for early forcing. With Canadian Wonder for the latest crop, a better selection than the above could not be made where a good supply is required during the winter and spring months. — Willi.im Tili.euy, Welbeck. Skeleton Leaves. — Three cases of " skeletonised " leaves were shown at South Kensington last summer by Mrs. Coussons, of South- port, and the following noto concerning them is given iu the Society's journal just published: — " For the dissection of leaves I find the process of maceration too long and tedious, to s.^y nothing of the un. certainty as to the results. I have therefore adopted the use of alkali in saturated eolation, the specimens to be introduced while the liquid is heated to boiling point. The time of immersion to be regu- lated by the character of the various leaves, and the nature of the epidermis to be removed. When the specimen is freed from epidermis and cellular tissue, it mnst be subjected to the action of chlorine to destroy the colouring matter. The introduction of peroxide of hydro- gen serves not only to render the lace. like fpeoimen purer in colour, but preserves it also. In destroying the colouring matter of Ferns this is likewise invaluable ; added to the chlorine it gives a solidity to the bleached fronds, and appears to equalise the action of the chlorine. For skeletonising capsules the slow process of maceration by steeping in rain water is alone available— a moderate heat may be applied to hasten the process, but alkali is useless. Skeletonised leaves and capsules appear to gain in the prooss a toughness and durability not possessed by them in their natural state." 46 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. PROPAGATING. CO>TDITIONS UNDER WHICH GRAFriNG IS BENEFICIAL. We sometimea think that these are not ao ganeral aa may be imagined. In fact, if it be true, aa phyaiologiata tell ua and oultivatora believe from practical experience, that a reciprocal action exists between the root and top of a plant— that the one ia pretty much what the other makes it — then it follows that it we graft a weak-growing Vine, for example, npon a vigorous stock, and only permit the development of leaves and branches on the acion, the atock maat eventually lose its Buperior vigour to a great extent, if not wholly, and the Vine will be no better off than it it ha 1 been on ita own roota. Perhaps a little may be allowed when the stock, in addition to being more vigorous, ia also of a hardier constitution. And, so far aa I have observed, this ia exactly what happens in the case of grafted subjects. Under equal conditions a Black Hamburgh Vine makes better roots, and more of thoni, than a Black Hamburgh stock that carries a top of some weak. "rowing Vine only, and this when both roots and stems were equal to begin with. Neither does the girth of stem of the two increase at the same rate, but the Hamburgh thickens faster than the grafted acion. This is a more important queation than at first appears, for it affects the whole question of budding and grafting. Same veara ago, it being supposed that a certain new Vine (the Muscat Hamburgh) succoede 1 beat when grafted on the Black H-iraburgh, nurserymen laid hold of the idea, and plants were advertised guaranteed to be worked on the Hamburgh stock at the outset. Seemingly, however, the plan did not lead to any great re- sults, for it was not long heard of. Let me here state that I am not now speaking of grafting with a view to check the vigour of the top, as ia the object in the case of the Quince stock, but the reverse. Practically I have not turned my ideas on this subject to much account, except in the case of Vines, and I am not the only one who has noticed the fact in regard to these during the last two years ; but it is now more than ten years since I gave up the practice of employ, in" strong.growing Vines simply aa atocka for weaker sorts. On the contrary, in order to get the full benefit of the stock employed, I have allowed it to produce fruiting limba aa well, and have made the grafted sort only one limb of the tree ; but mostly we have grafted the Vine half-way np the rafter, the bottom portions bearing the frnit and leaves of the stock, and the top the grafted Vine, thus preserving the native vigour of the stock by its own growth and foliage, and imparting the same to the grafted portion. And it seems to me this is the only way to get the full benefit of grafting. It may be that a stock wholly deprived of its own foliage may never entirely lose its inherent vifconr and vitality by being made to carry atop of a naturally leas vigorous habit ; but facts go to show that it is at least greatly enfeebled. I have chospn the Vine to illustrate my meaning clearly ; but, as I said before, it is a question aSectingother budded or grafted subjects aa well, and particularly Roses. We have rather extensive planta- tions of Rosea here, which have been added to and made up at intervala during the last fourteen yeara, and nothing has struck me more than the comparative growth of the Brier stocks on which the different varieties are worked. Oar soil is naturally a Brier soil, and we have many whole, half, and quarter standards on that stock, and have been able to note the effects of the growth of the Roses upon the thickening of the Brier and the production of roots, and my observations bear out in a very remarkable manner what I have stated in regard to the Vine. Roses which years ago were received with Brier stems all of the same thickneas, being newly budded, of course, have altered very much aince then. Brier stema on which strong-growing varieties of the Roae were worked have been much increased in girth, and produced plenty of roota, while the stoma of weak-growing sorts have made proportionately less progress and correspondingly few roots. Some sorts, indeed, that do not appear to thrive in our cold and expoaed aituation, have not thickened per- ceptibly in the stock a . all, nor made any roota worth mentioning. We have lately gone over our plantations, and planted 200 fresh plants in place of poorly-growing sorts and to make np blanks, and I have been particularly struck with the facts I have stated, and which I have doubt can be corroborated by other Rose growers. In short, wherever we have a strong-growing kind of Rose — like Gloire de Dijon, for example — we have a strorg Brier stock and plenty of roots, and rice versi. thus showing that the stock ia completely under the control or the top, whatever may be its character. Such facts lead one to doubt Dr. Lindley's dictum that " species which are naturally delicate become robust when ' worked ' on robust stocks," when, at least, the growth of the scion only is permitted. Indeed, the doctor's own teachings on the subject of vegetable pbj'siology prove such an hypothesis to be wrong. It the views I have expressed be correct, then some of the pruning and other cultural practices at present followed must be wrong. For instance, in the case of the Roae, when suckers from the Brier Btook push below the graft, we call them " robbers," and always rub them off aa a matter of course ; but do such growths really do harm, and might they not be advantageously encouraged in some cases ? I put thia queation to Rose growers and others experienced in snoh matters, aa I think the question is well worth considering, ily own opinion is, that a moderate encouragement of growth from the atock, as near the graft aa possible, would encourage a weakly Roae or feeble-growing variety to increase its vigour and improve ita flowers ; or perhaps the same end might be gained in a better way by budding vigorous and weak-growing Roses on the same stock. I am aware the generally accepted opinion is, that the stronger growth robs the weaker one ; that waa my own opinion once, and I am pre- pared to admit that in aome cases such an opinion may be correct ; but, aa a rule, I believe a weak or feeble-growing branch is en. couraged, and, to a certain extent, upheld by the stronger one when the latter happens to be near it, or on the same leading trunk. In other words, we do not improve the chances of a weak or sickly limb by cutting away all the stronger growths in order to divert the vigour and sap into the weak one, but which ia a very common practice ; the strong branch keeps np the vitality and the oircu. lation, and the weak one shares in it. This is distinctly exemplifisd in the case of variegated plants, upon which we have tried the experiment purposely yeara ago, and always with the same results. Some plants, like the Cyperua alternifolins variegatus, Alocasia macrorrhiza, Alyssum variegatum. Mangles' Variegated and Flower of the Day Pelargoniums, &o., frequently sport to the pure white form, producing whole limbs and loaves without a speck of green npon them, and which grow as freely as the healthy greea parts of the plants while the latter remain ; but cut the gresu leaves and ahoota away, and the white limbs perish in a very short time, thus showing that their very existence depended upon the welfare of the healthy branches. I apprehend that a similar sympathy exists between a weak branch or a strong one, aa in the case of the rose and other plants. In short, the fact appears to me to be indisputable, that when wo graft a plant upon a foreign atock, and the scion only ia permitted to grow, the atock, after it has lost the inherent vigour it brought with it at the beginning, becomes little more than a channel of communication between the top and the soil, depending quite aa much upon the soion for its existence as the scion does upon it, or more. — " Field." Propagating O iks. — In making a few remarks on the fine quality of Acorns which I saw the other day in a nursery, and which had come fi'om the south of England, I was told by the nurseryman that seed from the south, and especially from France, waa preferred, as it invariably produced the finest and largest plants. The Acorns gathered inthispartot Y-irkshire, he said, produced plants about 9 in. high, while those produced from seed from the south of Bo gland were aa atrong again, and those from the French seed still stronger. The fact is perhaps familiar to nurserymen, but it has an interest for gardeners as well. The queation is, is it the size of the kernels or their more perfect maturity that is productive of the extra vigour, and are the results permanent ? Is the difference in growth notice, able after the first year or two ? If it be due to the size of the seed, one would think the difference would not be lasting: but if due to more perfect maturity, it might. I am inclined to think that bulk of seed has more to do with it than ripeness. About here Acorns ripen well and vegetate freely, but they are from one-half to two- thirds smaller than those which come from the aouth. In garden culture I am not pepared to aay that large seeds produce the bast or most fruitfnl plants; but there can be no doubt that the best-ripened seeds do, a face which is pretty well illustrated in the case of the Melon and Cucumber for example, and Beans and Peas, &3. Not only do they vegetate more readily and surely, but the vigiur of the plants is much greater. It ia not to be inferred, however, that partially immature seeds are incapable of producing plants. The chief difB. culty with these ia that they do not vegetate freely ; but, when they once begin to grow, any leaf which they make adda to the prospect of their becoming healthy plants, as they then begin to make roots on their own account, and soon become independent of the support derived from the seed. I have often nursed weak Melon planta, from poor or ill.ripened seeds, into good, healthy specimens by extra care, when I had little more than two very imperfectly-developed seed It^avea with which to work. By keeping them near the glass, and in a comfortable temperature, the pile and sickly leaves g t greener and stouter day by .; THE GAEDEN. 47 FOOD-BOXES FOB, OUR GARDEN SONGSTERS. DURIKG the inclement weather which preceded Christmas Day, lamentable accounts were heard of the great mortality amongst small birds, especially in the north of England ; and the well- known ornithologist, M. 0. Morris, and others appealed to all lovers of the feathered tribe to repay the debt owing for many a sweet song by throwing the half-starved minstrels every day a handful of crumbs. The latter, it was pointed out, should always be strewed about on the same spot, and, by pre- ference, among the bushes. If, however, the winter i.s a severe one, the crumbs may be speedily hidden by a fall of snow, and the work of clearing the feeding-ground will have to be repeated again and again. To save this trouble, and make sure that the birds are able to partake of the repast offered them, Mr. Brunzel, of Breslau, recommends the use of a food-box em- ployed by the Vienna Animals' Protection Society, and repre- sented by the annexed woodcut. The special feature of the bos is that its open end always turns to the opposite direction from which the wind and snow are coming. The food is thus naturally protected against the latter, and the birds find shelter from the cold. With respect to the construction of the appa- ratus, the box and two wings (intended to act as sails) may be made of j in. deal boards ; the back, to allow the crumbs to be seen better, should consist of glass, and the top or roof, pro- jecting a little beyond the sides, slant down to it. The position which the box ought to occupy when placed on the spindle attached to the upper end of the support is indicated in the engraving, and, as regards height from the ground, this will vary, according to the situation, from 3 ft. to 6 ft. or more. If, as is desirable, the box receive two or three coats of paint, all Food-box for Birds. bright colours must be avoided, and, on account of its gloss, of course, no varnish should be put on. A greyish or dull green is, perhaps, the best colour. T. S. REMARKABLE OAK GALL. The various galls on plants caused by insects, especially by those of the family Cynipidas, have much interested naturalists and others, varying as they do so much in form and structure, and often assuming very attractive and curious shapes, as in the Bedeguar of the Rose, and several of the galls on the Oak. Among the most remarkable with which I am acquainted is the gall that I am about to describe, which has recently been brought to my notice. It is produced on the cup of the acorn of an Oak. Referring to the annexed figures, which are drawn somewhat larger than nature, one giving a front view and the other a side view of the gall, it will be seen that a series of elongated, rather flattened and pointed, slightly curved lobes, go forward from a point on the outside of the acorn cup, and spreading right and left clasp the cup and the acorn so as to leave but a small portion of either exposed to view. The gall appears in the specimens which I have examined to spread very regularly on each side of the point from which it springs, and to form lobes corresponding to each other in size and shape, giving the whole one uniform character. The substance of the gall is internally hard and somewhat corky, and when dry of a dull, yellow-ochre colour, which is also the prevailing colour of the whole gall. Exter- nally the surface is either rugose and pitted, or in places smooth and leather-like. One specimen of the gall entirely covered both the cup and acorn, so that only the apex was visible. A specimen which I broke open had a large, elongated, hollow chamber, smooth inside, in one of the larger lobes, in which was the cocoon of an insect of a very regular, oval shape, j in. long, and about ^ in. in diameter. This cocoon had a hard, even case of the same colour as that of Oak Galls. the gall. I have tried to find specimens corresponding with this gall in the metropolitan collections, but have failed, except it be one in the British Museum which much resembles it. It is there called the gall of Cyuips calicis. This gall is probably referred to in Rothschild's '• Insects " (fig. 211, vol. Ill), where, at the end of the article Cynips, he says, " Another species, the Cynips calicis, pierces the calyx of the young acorns, the deformed fruit of which develops into leaves super-imposed on each other and curled up," and there is in the " Entomologist " for August, 1878, p. 182, a gall figured under the same name which has so much in character with the gall here figured that I have every reason to think that both have the same origin and are produced by Cynips calicis (Burgsdoril). Worthhi'j. W. W. S. A PEEP INTO A PARIS FLOWER SHOP ON ALL SAINTS' EVE. Ox a dull, wet evening (Oct. 3l8t, last year) I wandered into a flower shop not far from the Madelaine, my friend H., an enthusiaat aboat flowers, wanting to purchase a Tree Carnation which had attracted hia notice the day before. H., with the caation of a trne Englishman, is of opinion that foreigners, Parisians in particular, invariably ask nearly double the proper price for their warea, and that it is a duty to himself and his travelling countrymen to beat down these shopkeepers to what he thinks the right sum. Although he speaks of this as a stern duty, I think it is not an unpleasant one, and that he rather enjoys the process. The little shop itself was quite a picture ; it was a bower of Palms, Ferns, and plants in bloom. Pots of white Lilac, Eoses, Pinks, and Carnations, shed a delightful per- fume. Two or three girls were occupied in making bouquets and garlands, while the presiding deity, a stout, middle.aged woman, with a good-natured face, waited on customers, at the same time superintending the workers. While H. was bargaining with her for his Carnation, I watched the packing of a large box, which con. tained a cross, a wreath, and a cushion of flowers. The last, about 8 in. long and 6 in. wide, was composed of double Neapolitan Violets, with here and there a white Rose bud. The cross, which was about 2 ft. long, was made of white Roses and Carnations, with a delicate edging of Myrtle sprigs ; the wreath was of the same flowers, mixed with knots of Violets. The packer was placing these most carefully in a deep box, and arranging them with thin lathes, so that they were perfectly firm and did not touch each other. " What are you going to do with these lovely flowers ? " I inquired. " Monsienr, they are to be sent off to Rheims to-night to Madame de F. We received particular orders that they should be there early to-morrow morning. She lost an only daughter about this time last year ; she was but 18, and we were to make the cross and wreath of white 48 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1879. blooma, but these Violets were so fine that we thought a few bunches could not be amiaa. What does Monaieur think? "AV.cz rite Nicole, tn seras en retard "jLUKiously exclaimed the miBtres3,|who had been beatowing a somewhat divided attention on H.'s wants. " The price," said she, turning to me, "o£ the wreath, cross, and cushion, is 75 francs. Are they not lovely ? " I answered truly that I had never seen any arrangement of flowers before which pleased me so much. " These," continued she, " will be placed [on the grave of Mdlle. de P. early to-morrow ; perhaps Monaieur, though an Engliah. man, will remember that we decorate our graves for the Toussaint ! We have been sending out wreaths and crosses all day, but none ao lovely aa these." I could not help remembering the burial scene in Cymbeline, when the two brothers are bearing the dieguiaed Imogen to her rest. (It is always a relief to my mind to know that she is not really dead, thongh this somewhat interferes with the pathos of the lines) :'— With fairest flowers, Whilst summer lasts, and I live here, I'll sweeten thy siJ grave : Fidele, thou shilt not lack The flower that's like thy t'ioe, pale Primrose, nor The azured Harebell, like thy veins; no, nor The leaf of Eglantine ; Yea! and furred Moss besides, when flowers are none. To winter ground thy corse. W. N. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Myrsiphyllum asparagoides. — I should be much obliged if you would give me directions as to the treatment of Myrsiphyllum aspara- goides, and at what heat it should be kept? — S. W. C. [It should l)e grown in an Intermediate house in a temperature of, say from 55' to GO*"*, and its shoots should be allowed to twine themselves up pieces of string, or netting strained closely under the glass. It succeeds best in a well- drained soil consisting of turfy loam or peat, or both, with the addition of a little sand and decayed leaf mould or manure. — S.] Cypripedium spsctabile. — How can I best succeed in growing this handsome Lady's Slipper ? — H. H. C. [Plant it in a moist hut well, drained, sandy soil in a sheltered position, or you might grow it in pots or plus in the greenhouse, in which case use good fibrous loam, leaf mould, and sand, and let the pots be well drained. — S.] Early Melons. — As a rule every gardener has a favourite Melon of his own, but "J. W." (p. 24) may place every contidenco as regards obtaining an early crop of Melons in Gilbert's Improved Victory of Bath (green fleshed) and Williams' Paradise Gem (scarlet fleshed). Both force well, set freely, and are excellent in quality. For a second crop in a hotbed frame Goldou (Jaeen (green fleshed) and Read's Hybrid (scarlet fleshed) are equally good.— J. Ssiith, Waterdale. " J. W." (p. 24) should grow Sutton's Hero of Bath as an early scarlet-fieshed kind — it is first-class in all points ; and, for an early green - fleshed variety, there is nothing better than Heckfield Hybrid when that variety can bo obtained true. For frame culture Hero of Bath and the old Egyptian (green flesh) are suitable kinds. — H. W. Let me recommend " J. W." (p 24) to grow Eistnor Castle and Read's Scarlet Melons both for his pit and frame crop. We have grown many varieties, but have found none better than these, all things con- sidered.— C.\MBRIAN. Plants for Carpeting Bulb Beds. — The following list of plants named in order of merit will answer " J. S.'s " purpose (p. 24) admirably, viz, Sedum glaucum, grey; S. lydium, green; S. acre elegans, pale yellow; Sasifraga rosularis, silvery-white; S. hirta, green; Antennaria tomentosa, white; and Uerniaria glabra, green. All are surface rooters, and look equally well in summer and winter. — W. W. Srauts from Furnaes Chimneys.— " A. E." (p 24) would find coke more economical than coal, and much the best way of getting rid of the smut nuisance of which he complains. — W. W. H. Astar-srowing for Market. — How do market gardeners grow Asters so as to send them to market in bloom in pots ? — H. H. C. [ Ihey sow the seed in heat in spring, harden otf the young plants when up, and plant them out, after all danger from frost is over, in rich ground in an open situation, mulching the ground in hot weather to keep it moist ; then, when wauted for market, they are lifted and potted. — S.j Fungi in Mushroom Beds.— The fungi growing in the centre of " T. S.'s" Mushroom bed belong to Agaricus virgineus, a common occu- pant of Mushroom beds The explanation of your case is simple. The unwelcome fungus delights in half-decayed manure equally well with the Mushroom itself. As the spores of the first are commonly floating in the air, whenever they happen to light on a well-prepared Mushroom bed they are sure to grow. Such cises are common, and we have fre- quently known the Mushrooms to be completely ousted by the new comers. Nettles Under Trees. — Nettles soon succumb to repeated cutting down of their tops, or a still more efl'ectual way of dealing with them is to dig the ground which they occupy, in winter. It need not be turned over Very deeply, and the few that will sprout up in the ensuing spring can be easily destroyed with a hoe or fork. Of all the plants of a peren- nial character which come under the denomination of weeds, I do not recollect one less difficult to eradicate than Nettles, a fact easily accounted for by their being much more impatient of disturbance at the root t'jaa plants of a like description. On open ground there is absolutely no diSi- culty with them. I once had a dense bed occupying a considerable space simply dug over, not trenched, with a little manure previously spread on the surface and worked in as the ground was turned over. It was planted with Potatoes in the beginning of April and produced one of the best crops I ever saw, the roots of the Nettles decaying being just the fibrous sort of material in which Potatoes luxuriate. All who have plenty of luxuriant Nettles may rest satisfied that they have some good land. The common British species (Urtica dioica) wherever I have seen it has invari- ably been located on good soil. — T. Baines. Biita for Field Mice.— Allow me to assure Mr. Harpur Crewe (p 24) that I am not too comprehensive when I add the short tailed field mouse to the kinds which I have succeeded in capturing with nut kernels. A year ago I was annoyed by having the fruit of Psidium Cattleyanum and Eugenia IJgni under glass carried ofl' as fast as it ripened. I set my traps, the falling kind, the best I think ever invented, and secured the de- linquents ; they proved to be a pair with short tails. 'This species in severe weather feeds on the smooth bark of trees. Last winter I had a large Jasminum revolutum destroyed, through their devouring the bark from the collar upwards 18 in., and I noticed during the late severe frost that they were attacking some large plants of Aralia Sieboldi. They will also, I believe, mount the highest Apple and Pear trees in order to get at the best fruit. By the way, I fancy bank vole is a misnomer, as, if I am not mistaken, it always makes its nest in the open fields, selecting a dry spot in which to burrow, and from which, beneath the herbage, its run ramifies right and left, frequently extending long distances. I quite agree with Mr. Crewe's remarks about owls and should like to see his wish become the law of the land. They are the farmers' and gardeners' best friends, but are regarded generally as their direst foes. I have several here and value them as ornithological treasures, far above the game, but I find it diflicult to protect them from the prejudiced around me. — J. M., Chartnoiith, Dorset. Treatment of Tuberoua-rooted Tropseolums. — There should be no difficulty in inducing these Tropa3olums to flower. If your corres- pondent's plants are now growing freely they will soon be showing their bloom buds. They should stand in a light, airy position in a cool house, or in the window of an apartment where a fire is not continually main- tained, and where air can be admitted in favourable weather. If grown in heat or in confined quarters, they seldom flower satisfactorily. During the next two months water should only be given when the soil is quite dry, but when fully established and coming into flower, they will, in warm weather, need copious moistenings. When in bloom, shade them from the hot sun and sprinkle the path and stage, which will have the effect of prolonging the blooming season. Green fly is apt to be very trouble- some, and if not promptly exterminated, it will turn the foliage yellow and completely paralyse the'growth. — J. Corxhill, Biijleet. Names of Plants. — Anon. — We are unable to satisfactorily identify the leaf, but pi'obably with more material, such as a flower, it would be an easy matter. Questions. Pine-apples. — What is the best structure in which to grew Pines ? And what is the best material in which to plunge them ? Also, what is the best soil for Pines where no proper loam can be procured ? — A Garde.ner. Rheum officinale (Baillon). — Will some one of your correspondents who have access to the best authorities kindly point out the difl'erences, if any exist, between this plant and the so-called R. palmatum tanghuti- cum ? The question is not without importance for seed buyers, for in one trade list from an eminent firm the two plants are offered as distinct and at very different prices. In another catalogue, from a house equally reputable, they are offered as synonymous. Which is right? — W. T. I. The Short-tailed Field Mouse. — We used to have here several eatabliahmenta of the barn owl which were carefully preserved, but, for aome unexplained reaaon, they have left us, or been shot in their foraging expeditiona in the neighbonrhood. Since the disappear- ance of the owls my rock garden has i-uSered severely from the ravages of both the long and abort tailed field mouse, especially the latter, which now swarms here, and which we find most difficult to trap. Not content with the Cistus, dwarf Genistas, and other low-growing plants, it has eut off the Japanese Honeysuckles down to the ground and done a great deal of damage. The barn owl is invaluable aa a destroyer of mice, and is the natural provision made for curtailing the numbers of theae miachievoua little animals. I entirely agree with Mr. Harpur Crewe, and think every man who kills a barn owl ought either to be fined or otherwise punished. The moat casual observation would convince any one of the aervicea rendered to man by thia harmless and useful bird. — Alfred Ellis, The Brand, Loiujh- horouiiJi. A Sibstitute for Holly Berries. — We have not had a single Holly berry during the whole of the late feative seaaon, but we have several large red-berried Solanum plants covered with fruit which we have cut freely, and the small branches, when mixed with ever. greens in wreaths, &o., have an excellent effect. — Cambrian. THE GARDEN. 49 No. 374 ] SATUKBAY. JANUARY 18. 1879. [Vol. XV. " This is an art Which does mend Nature : change it rather : bat TaB Aet itself is NircBB.'* — Sh'i^-ceti>eare. ROSE SOILS AND ROSE STOCKS. " Ir I had only a good Rose soil, I have no doubt I could grow good Roses," is an exclamation one often hears from those who have been unsuccessful ia their culture ; but it is a mistake to suppose that such a soil is absolutely necessary even for those who grow for exhibition, for one of our most successful amateurs has only a light saudy soil, and yet he can produce flowers which gain for him silver cups and prizes; at the same time, it must be confessed that a good soil is a great help to good Rose growing. The rich, unctuous loam of Hertfordshire and Hereford, of Slough and Colchester are just the soils in which the Rose delights ; but it is accommodating, as the luxuriance with which it grows in many a cottage garden, diffusing its fragrance all around, testifies, while, as we know, the wild Rose throws up its vigorous shoots in all soils and in all situations. One sees it on the shores of a Scot- tish loch, resting deep in the moist peat ; on the wild moor- lands of Ireland, in thin, gravelly soil ; or in the rich hedge- rows of our English counties, in deep, loamy soil ; and although in all it seems to flourish, yet it is in the latter that it is espe- cially at home. Hence, no one need be discouraged at the thought that their unsuitable soil prevents them indulging in their love for the Rose. Bearing iu mind, then, the character of the soil it especially likes, we must endeavour to remedy any defect so as to approximate to it. Where soil is light and rich, loam or even clay must be added to make it more tena- cious. My own garden is of that character — a rich, alluvial soil, in which well-nigh everything will flourish ; but the Rose does not like it, and hence I am obliged, with some considerable difficulty to get loam from a distance to add to it. Where soil is too stiff (not very often the case) it may be made lighter by the addition of ashes, as well as manure; but the chief difficulty is with light, not heavy soils. I need not insist upon thorough drainage where the soil is very heavy ; stagnant water about the roots is death to the Rose ; for although it will bear a great deal of moisture, it will not tolerate insufficient drainage. Many of our older varieties of Roses may be had on their own roots, and there is no doubt that thus they flourish best ; the Moss, Cabbage, Gallica, and other summer- flowering Roses are all better as dwarf, compact bushes, but it is a different matter when we have to deal with the Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals. In the southern parts of England the Teas do well out-of-doors, and will stand the winter with but little protection, but in the colder parts of the island this is impossible. The Hybrid Perpetuals, having the blood of various races in them, are some of them more tender than others ; and although they are in some instances grown on their own roots, yet in perhaps 99 cases out of 100 they are grown as budded plants, and the question has been hotly debated, Which is the best stock to use ? A great impulse was given to Rose growing by the introduction by the late Mr. Rivers, about forty years ago, of the Manetti Rose from Italy, and for thirty years it has held almost undisputed sway as a stock for dwarf Roses. Standards are still grown, and, as far as one can see, must be grown on the Dog Rose. Thus, one large Rose grower is said to bud 250,000 Manettis every year, while of 12 acres grown by another more than 11 acres are under the Manetti. Of late years, however, a reaction has set in, ov rather, let me say, a fresh candidate for favour has arisen in the seedling Brier, long used by the French Rose growers as a stock for their Tea Roses, but of late years brought prominently into notice by Mr. Prince, of Oxford, who grows it exclusivelv, and uses it for Roses of all descriptions. It has rapidly come into favour, while cuttings of the Dog Rose are used by other cul- tivators, the fact being realised by both that the Dog Rose has its disadvantage ; its roots are few, and in a light^soil it has a bad tendency to send its underground shoots a long way off, and thus take from the vigour of the Rose which is budded upon it ; but with the seedling Brier this is to a great extent obviated. A careful excision of the eyes before planting will prevent them throwing up suckers, and I have in my own Rosery plants on the seedling Brier which have been there three or four years, and I have never seen a sucker on them. They root most profusely, and, consequently , give vigour to the Rose without overpowering it. It is also later, so that where there are both Manetti and seedling Briers grown, the Rose season is prolonged. It must be borne in mind, too, that there are some Roses which do but indifferently on the Manetti which flourish on the seedling Brier. Roses such as Henri Ledechaux, Capitaine Christy, and others of the Victor Verdier type, beau- tiful in appearance, but generally scentless, succeed well on it, while for Tea Roses its importance cannot be over estimated. Many of these the Manetti by its great vigour absolutely kills, but they flourish to perfection on the seedling Brier. Other stocks, it maybe mentioned, have been used, such as Celine, Napoleon, De la Grifferiae, and Garland, but they are practi- cally nowhere in the estimation of the Rose grower; the three named, the wild Brier for standards, and the Manetti and seedling Brier for dwarfs, being those which are most generally used. The experience of the past year has also some- what tarnished the reputation of the Manetti in another way. Complaints have been made, and not without reason, that excessive wet causes its roots to rot. In my own light soil even I have found this to be the case, while from growers in all parts of the country one has heard the complaint that their Roses have died. In some instances hundreds of Roses have been dug up and consigned to the back settlements of the garden or to the rubbish-heap, for, as a well-known Rosarian wrote to mo, Roses are so cheap now that it is of no use trying to recover wounded ones ; better get in fresh, healthy plants to supply their places. I think that it may be taken for granted that in getting in plants it is well to consider the soil and climate both of the place where the Roses are to be grown and also from whence they are brought. To transfer Roses from the mild climate and loamy soil of a southern county to the bleak climate and hungry soil of a northern county cannot but be fraught with disaster ; and, therefore, it is far better, if it be possible, to get Roses from some one near at hand, where the climatic condi- tions are the same, and those of the soil nearly so. I have thought it well to write at some length on the sub- ject of stocks because I am sure that much of the disappoint- ment experienced by the owners of small gardens arises from the fact that they do not consider these matters; they order at haphazard from a nurseryman, and are contented to receive good-looking plants without at all considering whether they are likely to thrive with them, what their soil is, or what the stocks on which they are growing. If, as in other matters, they were to take into consideration their own position and then try and get their Rosea to suit that position, they would not so constantly mourn over the fact that they cannot get their Roses to succeed. Delta. WHITE ROSES. The most beautiful and recherche of all white Roses is Niphetos. This is one of the oldest of the Tea-scented Roses now in cultivation, for we find it described in the first edition of Paul's " Rose Garden," published in 1848. In the period of time from that date until the present moment, which has witnessed the disappearance of so many hundred kinds of Roses, after trials of long or short duration, Niphetos has more than held its own, and is daily increasing in popularity. To the exhibi- tor it is a tried and trusty friend, for where is the stand of flowers that would not be enriched and ennobled by the presence of one of its grandly-shaped, snowy, wax-like blooms ? It is the admired and sought-after of all amateurs, whilst with the florists, who grow Roses for the sake of selling the flowers in the market, it is the backbone of their culture. Naturally a moderate-growing Rose, Niphetos may, with plenty of heat, be m»de to produce shoots of a stoutness and length that will bear comparison with the growth of any of the non-climbing varieties of the Tea Rose. Where large quantities of bloom THE GARDEN. TJax. 18, 1879. are required this seems to be the secret of success in growing it, and it is under a system of cultivation, carried on by means of a large degree of heat and moisture, that the thousands of flowers of this variety are produced which certain firms are continually pouring into the markets of London and other large town?. We would, therefore, recommend amateurs to bear this in mind, and if they have a warm corner in their Eose house let them reserve it for a plant of Niphetos, which will ■well repay them for their consideration. Other valuable white, or nearly white Roses, in the Tea-scented section, are Alba Rosea, Julie Mansais, Madame Hippolyte Jaraain, Madame Villermoz, Marie Guillot, Rubens, and Sombreuil, all first class, bat possesiug withal the characteristic tenderness of their race, which renders the cultivation of all Tea Roses not devoid of risk, except under favourable circumstances, such as on a wall facing south, or on a well- sheltered border with the same aspect. Nearly allied to the Tea Roses are the Chinese or Bengal, and of these Ducher and Mrs. Bosanquet are the best whites. Amongst the Noisette, or autumn-bloom- ing cluster Roses, Aimee Vibert and Madame Massot are pretty white Roses, especially valuable for climbing. The white Hybrid Perpetual Roses may be roughly divided into two sections, the one with a preponderance of Noisette blood, and the other comprising varieties of various parentage, and whose origin is not so clearly recognisable. The former, which may be termed Noisette Perpetuals, are chiefly characterised by a dark, shining foliage, the disposition of the flowers to come in clusters, and the tendency of the blooms to be more or less tinged with pink at the edges. The best of this section is undoubtedly Boule de Neige, and closely following it are Louise Darzens, Baronue de Maynard, Coquette des Blanches, Madame Alfred de Rougemonc, and Madame Noman. Coquette des Alpes occasionally produces splendid flowers, but cannot be relied upon. Newer kinds of this class ai-e Perledes Blanches, Perfection des Blanches, Olga Marix,Mdlle. Annie Marie Cote, and Madame Fran^-ois Pittet. The other section of Hybrid Per- petuals includes the well known Madame Lacharme, a splendid Rose in hot, dry summers, and the nearest approach we have to a white Jules Margottin ; Mdlle. Bonnaire, Imperatrice Eugenie, Elise BccUe, andMrs. Bellenden Ker, the last a beauti- ful white Rose, the best of the Bonnaire family, but one which seems to have been overlooked by the majority of cultivators. These four Roses do well on the Brier, but poorly on the Manetti stock ; their flowers are, however, of incomparable beauty. Queen Victoria, too, is a fine old white Rose, easy to grow ; Marquise de Mortemarte is good as a pot Rose, but out-of-doors hard to manage, being very delicate : Mabel Morri- son, if, aa described, a white Baroness Rothschild, must surely be an acquisition. Amongst the Bourbon Roses and their hybrids, Comtesse de Barbantanne is grand in autumn, and so are the trio, Acidalie, Queen, and Souvenir de la Malmaison, although none of them are pure white. Autumn is their flower- ing season, and from August onwards until the advent of frosty weather they will furnish a constant supply of beautiful blooms. We must admit, however, that it is amongst the summer- flowering kinds that the most gorgeous and effective of all white Roses are to be found, and unexcelled in this respect are the Hybrid Noisette Madame Plantier, and the D.imask JIadame Hardy. These two Roses will form huge bushes as dwarfs, and immense heads if grown as standards, in a manner that none of the autumnal Roses can approach, and during their season of flowering they present a dense and unbroken mass of white of dazzling purity and brightness. Miss Ingram, as a summer-flowering Rose, is good in some seasons. The best white Moss Roses are Comtesse de Murinais, Reine Blanche, and White Bath ; these flower in summer only. Per- petual White Moss produces beautifully-mossed flowers in autumn as well as summer. The White Provence, or Unique, is a pretty summer flower, as is also the Alba, Madame Legras. As climbing or running Roses, the Ayrshire and Evergreen families furnish us with some good kinds, such as Bennett's Seedling, Dundee Rambler, and Queen of the Belgians ; Donna Maria Rampante and Felicite Perpetue ; whilst the white Banksian may be got to climb, and produce in profusion its fragant blossoms on a south wall, at the foot of which may be trained the Macartneys Marie Leonida and Alba simplex. The Nurseries, Waltham Crass. Arthuk "VV^. Paul. PLANT CULTUEE IN MARKET GARDENS. Snow Pelargoniums. — Both show and zonal Pelargo- niums are grown, perhaps, in larger quantities than any- other market plants ; the uses to which they may be applied are so numerous that there is always a demand for them. Early in the year, their blooms are valuable, and later on the plants are required for window-boxes, flower gardens, and small greenhouses. One of the largest growers of show and fancy varieties is Mr. Bcckwith, of Tottenham, who sends to market yearly from 80,000 to 90,000 plants of both kinds. Cuttings of these are struck as early in spring as they can be obtained and potted on until they occupy 5-in. and 6-in. j^ots. They are given a little heat and abundance of air night and day wl'.en the weather will permit, and are copiously watered whenever they require it. The only kind of stimulant used in this great plant factory — for such it may be called — is soot water, which is applied at different degrees of strength, according to the stage of growth in which the plants may be. This has the eflect of expelling worms from the soil, and im- parting to the foliage a green, healthy appearance. The first batch of plants, which consists of early-flowering varieties, comes into bloom in February and March, and others are brought on in succession, the last being usually dis- posed of by the end of June. Few of the plants exceed 1-2 in. in height ; they are, however, remarkably bushy, and furnished with large, healthy leaves down to the pot, and every shoot bears noble trusses of finely-developed blossoms. One of the ijrincipal kinds used for early-blooming is Red Gauntlet, a kind which I once saw covering a back wall of a lean-to house, from 10 ft. to 12 ft. high, and 120 ft. in length. The pots in which the plants were growing were plunged in the border, and the roots had long ago passed through the bottoms of the pots into the soil below them. The shoots were tied to the wall, and at nearly every season of the year abundance of bright-coloured blossoms could be gathered. During March and April the amount of bloom was simply wonderful. Little attention was paid to the plants beyond clearing off decayed leaves and tying in the shoots occasionally. A dark variety named Bonnie Charlie is also used for forcing. Its habit of growth is not particularly good, but its flowers are of a rich dark, velvety crimson, and old plants of it, when kept liberally supplied with water, grow and flower all the year round. Beauty of Edmonton is also an excellent kind, the flowers having a fringed edge similar to those of the well-known Dr. Andry. In colour they are brilliant crimson, and are more conspicuous than those of any other variety. Mr. Hayes, another great grower, at Edmonton, never subjects his Pelargoniums to any fire-heat whatever after the plants are rooted, except during very severe weather. Abundance of light, air, and water is given them, but they receive little in the way Sf stimulating manures of any kind. Nevertheless, the foliage is very large and beautifully green, and almost conceals the pots. The flowers, too, being produced without forcing, last for a much longer time than those on plants that have been subjected to strong fire-heat and stimulating manures. Some growers of Pelargoniums place good, bushy plants of early-flower- ing kinds into large pots during summer and keep their blooms regularly picked off, by which means the jjlants yield a good supply in autumn and spring, when flowers are greatly wanted. Others cut back their plants after they have done flowering in August, and, as soon as they break afresh, pot them and place them in a gentle heat, keeping them well supplied with manure water, and, thns treated, they continue to bloom all through the winter and Jan. 1^, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 51 spring. A fine double-flowered sliow Pelargonium, named Dr. Masters, wliicli originated with Mr. Reeves, of Acton, from a sport from the old Fire King, is one now much prized for its foultless hibit of growth, its wealth of deep green foliage, and its abundance of maroon-crimson llowers, which last for a much longer time in a cut state than those of any other market kind. Among other good varieties may be named Digby Grand (of the Dr. Audry type), Triomphe de St. Jlando (crimson), Duchess of Bedford, and Empress of India. Zonal Pelaeooniums. — These are largely grown by nearly all market gardeners who have Vineries or other fruit houses ; they profitably occupy such houses whilst the fruit trees are at rest, and they are cleared out before the .shade of the trees interferes with them. In many places, also, houses are wholly devoted to zonal Polargo- niums, and, in that case, they are often made to serve two purposes ; they furnish an enormous amount of cut blooms during winter, and make neat, compact, and well-flowered plants with which to decorate the balconies and window- sills of London houses during summer. Vesuvius and Master Christine are the kinds grown in the greatest quan- tity ; a few white-flowered kinds are also grown, but on these very little value is set. Pink bloom is less sought after in the market than scarlet, and there is also less demand for the plants in summer. Cuttings of Pelar- goniums for winter blooming are struck in June, potted into 5-in. pots when well-rooted, and freely exposed to the sun and air by being placed in an open spot out-of-doors. Towards the end of September, when the weather begins to be showery and cold, the plants are removed to the houses in which they are to flower, each one being placed on an inverted flower-pot close to the glass, and sufficiently distant to allow of a free circulation of air amongst them. This prevents the leaves and blooms from damping off during wet and sunless weather. The plants are potted in good sandy loam, all kinds of manure or leaf-mould being avoided, as these only promote rank and vigorous growth at the expense of bloom. The great i^oint aimed at is to get the wood hard, short-jointed, and well-ripened as early in the autumn as possible, and, in oreler to accom- plish this and keep the plants dwarf and comjiact, no more water is given them at any stage of their growth than is absolutely necessary to keep them in a healthy condition. When placed in the houses, a dry atmosphere is maintained by means of hot-water pipes and free venti- lation. Should any of the plants show a want of vigour, they receive a little guano water, which soon improves their condition. The flowers are gathered regularly every evening, and by the same person, who takes great care never to cut a bloom one day that would be improved in condition by being left until the next. As they are gathered, they are placed in shallow trays, carried bj^ boys on their heads, and are at once conveyed to the packing .shed to be gummed. This process is likewise performed by boys, who, with a finely-pointed stick, deftly drop the smallest possible quantity of prepared gum into the eye of each blossom ; this keeps the petals stifi", and prevents the flowers from falling to pieces. When gummed, they are packed in boxes ready for market, where they fetch from 9d. to Is. per dozen trusses, according to size and quality. Notwithstandmg that hundreds of dozens of trusses are gathered weekly, Pelargonium houses in January present a display of bloom little inferior to that in the flower-beds in the metroi)olitan parks in the middle of summer. As soon as Pelargonium blooms become jjlentiful, market prices for them fall considerably ; the plants are then cut back and prepared for their summer duties. The cuttings taken off are struck in boxes, and sold, as in the case of Calceolarias, &c., to the trade for bedding purposes. The cut-down plants, when again established and full of bloom, arc taken to market, where they fetch from 5s. to 9s. per dozen. Some growers have rather a different practice. They strike their cuttings in autumn, grow them on in good sandy soil, keep them in houses, and then pot them in 6-in. pots ; the bloom which they produce during winter is, as in the case just stated, cut for market, and in April and May, when the plants are in full flower, they find a ready sale for furnishing large vases and for plantiug out in beds in which immediate effect is desired. The shoots are stopped during the growing season in order to make the plants bushy, and, when coming into bloom, liberal supplies of manure water are given them. Larger speci- mens are obtained from cuttings inserted in spring ; the shoots of these are regularly pinched in, and in the follow- ing spring large, bushy jilants furnished with fine spikes of bloom is the result. Coloured-leaved Pelakgoniums. — These have hitherto beeu but little grown for mai-ket ; lately, however, a few growers have taken them in hand, and find no difficulty in disposing of well-coloured plants at remunerative prices. The principal part of the propagating is done from January to Jlarch ; but it may be said to be always going on. The cuttings consist of points of the shoots taken ofl" when the wood is ripe, firm, and just starting into growth ; if they have four leaf-joints, that is sufficient. These are put into 2.',-iu. pots, and afterwards shifted into 3-in. jiots, in which many of them are marketed. Many of the commoner varieties are planted out in nursery beds during the summer to provide more cuttings ; these hard cuttings grow into rooted plants quickly. The soil used for the gold and silver Tricolors consists of about two parts light loam, one part leaf-mould, with silver sand added ; the gold and bronze kinds are grown in a stronger loam with a little well- decayed manure. These plants are grown in ordinary plant houses, light and aii'y, and, therefore, well adapted for the purpose ; but the plants are not kept so near the glass as one might suppose. During winter, a temperature of oO"" is maintained, rising to GO^ in the sun-heat. Plenty of air is given on all favourable occasions, but during dull weather water is applied but sparingly. Some growers send to market yearly as many as 20,000 plants in 4-in. or 5.in. pots, bushy, and well supplied with ample, richly- coloured foliage. The plants are usually sent to market packed closely together in shallow boxes, each of which holds a dozen or more pots. Both for window ornamenta- tion and for planting in small gardens, these coloured- leaved Pelargoniums are eagerly sought after. A few of the best kinds of golden Tricolors grown for market are Peter Grieve, Macbeth, Lady Cullum, Golden Queen, and Florence. These are mostly good growers, and have bold, richly-coloured leaves with good dark zones. Among silver tricolors may be mentioned Lass o' Gowrie (a capital sort, free, as regards growth, and very showy). Empress of India, and Dolly Varden. The best bronze or tricolors are Mrs. Harrison Weir, W. E. Gumbleton, and Marshal MacMahon. IvT-LEAVED Pelaegoniums are also grown in large quan- tities for draping the edges of window-boxes, and there has lately been raised some beautiful double-flowered kinds belonging to this class which will, when known, no doubt, be largely grown for such purposes, and their flowers are useful for cutting. C. W. S. 52 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1879. THE FRUIT GARDEN. PINE HOUSES. "Aoardenek" (p. 48) may giow Pine. apples eucoesafully in two kiuds of Btructurea, one a loan. to, ths other span. roofed. We grow them in both, and like the one about as well as the other. Lean. to houses may be of any width and height, bat we prefer them from 10 ft. to 18 ft. wide, and about 12 ft. high at the back j a high roof with the plants far from it ia undesirable. Such a house as this may hive the interior arranged in two ways, either with a bed about 10 ft. wide and a pathway all round, or a pathway along the centre, and a bed at back and frcut. In this case, the wall of the back bed should ba raised 2 ft. above that of the front, so as to keep the plants up n3ar the glass. With this arrangement there should be two rows of 4. in. pipr-s laid along the bottom of the pathway, with grating above on which to walk ; two rows along the front, and two rows along each bod to affo:d bottom. heat. With the bed in the centre, at least, a double row of 4.ia. piping should go all round the house, and three or four rows should be placed in the bottom of the bed. Per. i'orated gratings answer best for cornering over these bottom-heat p'pos, but they may be covered with stones or rough rubble, so that the heat may get freely up into the fermenting material. The beds should not be less than 2 ft. in depth, and the flow of water in the pipes should be regulated by means of good valves. In many bouses much heat is wasted by not attending to this. I may add that a lean-to house should be placed with its face due south, ;-.nd a span-roofed one with its ends north and south. A span-roofed house, about 12 ft. high and the same in width, with a 4 ft. bed on ctoh side of the pathway, is a favourite honse of mine for Pine culEare, but we have grown good fruit in all kinds of honses, the chief requirement being plenty of heat during certain stages of growth. I have entertained an opinion for a long time that Pines in general do not get sufficient water at the root. I would strongly recomm&nd all concerned in their culture who can procure Oak and Eeech leaves to store a large quantity of them for plunging and other purposes, such as hotbed making. We collected some bun. dreds of cartloads of them this winter for such purposes, and when useless for all else they make valuable leaf mould and manure for root crops, &c. At one time we used tan in which to plunge our Pines, but it did no better than leaves, if so well, and as a manure afterwards it is quite useless. Cambrian. It will be found, I think, that a hip-roofed house facing due south will answer better for Pines than one of any other form. Such a house will admit back light from the ridge, which should be about i ft. in depth. It should have a path beneath occupying the full apace, [and a narrow path on the front. The bed devoted to the plants, should be raised sufficiently high to keep them well up to the ijlass. For plunging some prefer Oak leaves, where these ai'e to be had in quantity, but nothing equals fresh tan, when not ground too fine. I'resh loam is the only soil suitable for Pines, and the better it is in quality the better the results may be expected to be, other cul- tural details being rightly carried out. I have, however, often seen good useful Pines grown in loam that was far from being such as one would select if better was obtainable. — T. Baines. The most suitable structure for Pines is a span. roofed pit, with sufficient piping to keep up the heat to 70° in severe weather, with ample ventilation at top and each side. It should have a bed in the centre, or a walk in the centre and a bed on each side, accord, ing to circumstances, with a couple of pipes underneath the bed, which should be regulated by means of a valve. The side ventilators should be opposite the hot.water pipes so as to warm the air as it enters ; they should be open a little all the year round on the side opposite the wind, it keeps the atmosphere in motion without allow- ing the heat and moisture to escape, and the result is sturdy growth and good flavoured fruit. The best plunging material is tan, which should be fresh, bat if very wet it should be turned over a few times before plunging the plants in it, as the heat is then steadier and more durable. The bottom heat should never exceed 80" or 83° at most, otherwise the foliage will be loig and narrow instead of short and broad, the forernnuer of good fruit. A suitable soil is the surface of an old pasture with plenty of fibre in it cut about 2 in. thick, and if in good condition it may be chopped, or, better still, pnlled in pieces fresh and green, and it should be mixed with a good sprinkling of rough sand or soft burnt biick broken small. Where top sods are not procurable Pines will succeed almost in any mix. tnre of soil provided it is open and sweet and pressed solid in potting, which leaves less room for water to stand in the pots. Never mix any manure with the compost, but give weak liquid manure regularly, as it has always a tendency to sour the soil and stop the progress of the roots. J. Smith. Waterdale. LADY BEATRICE LAMBTOX PINE-APPLE. This is one of the noblest and handsomest varieties of the king of fruits which has yet been obtained. It is one of about thirty seedlings raised some years since from the Montserrat, at Lambtoa Castle, by Mr. Stevens, who was then gardener there ; and it has since been proved to be both distinct and desirable by Mr. Hunter. Other distinct varieties of considerable promise, have, we believe, been observed amongst the seedlings, as well as some few which are remarkable as curiosities. We learn from Mr. Hunter that Lady Beatrice Lambton is somewhat taller than the Smooth-leaved Cayenne, and more erect in its habit of growth. The leaves are dark green and prickly at the edge, the spines being strong and widely set, about four to the inch. The flowers are purple. The fruit is very large, pyramidal, from fourteen to fifteen pips in depth, and averaging about 10 lb. in weight (it has been grown to 11 lb. 7 cz.), the individual pips being broad, measuring 1 in. across, plump when properly swelled, of a deep orange colour in the prominent parts, yellower in the furrows, the scales or bracts subtending each pip being of a bright coppery.red. It will thus be seen that it is really both a noble and a handsome fruit. The quality also is of a high order of merit. As regards its flesh and flavour, the former, in the examples we have examined, was of a pale semi.transparent yellow, with soft yellow fibres towards the firmer axis or centre, and exceed- ingly tender and melting towards the circumference. The flavour was rich and excellent, with very abundant refreshing juice. Mr. Hunter informs us that in the case of a fruit of 10 lb. weight, cue at Christmas, 1873, and used for dessert, he poured from the dish when it was brought from table three. fourths of a tumblerful of the syrnpy juice, and our experience quite accords with this statement. This very abundant juice is, in truth, one of its characteristic features, and one which points to its great value as a summer fruit. When ripened in spring, it is found to be quite equal to the Cayenne and Charlotte Rothschild ; indeed, Mr. W. Thomson, of Clovenfords, states that having often tasted it both in summer and winter, he is of opinion that while it far exceeds in size the Bnville, which it resembles in shape, it equals the Queen and Smooth Cayenne in flavour, and in this respect far excels them in winter. Mr. D. Thompson speaks approvingly of its very free fruiting habit, and also bears testimony to its beauty and good qualities, it being, be lemarks, "the most handsome Pine in cultivation," and in the winter season " remark- ably juicy, and much better flavoared than Smooth Cayenne or Charlotte Rothschild." The fruit grows close down in the heart of the plant, quite the opposite of its parent, which throws its fruit out of the foliage. Various causes, which it is not necessary here to discuss, have conspired to prevent this fine new Pine from being put into commerce at an earlier period, one of which, we learn, is its shyness in producing suckers. Its merit has, from the first, been fully appreciated at Lambton. A sufficient stock has now been ob- tained to permit of its being offered to the public ; and for this purpose it has passed into the hands of Messrs. Ireland & Thompson , of the Cragleith Nurseries, Edinburgh, by whom it is being dis tribu ted.— "Florist." Protecting Fruit Trees.— All small fruit bushes should now ba protected from birds. The beat material I find for this purpose is white cotton, known as crotchet cotton ; it does not break during strong wind as finer material does. It should not be placed in straight lines ; on the contrary, the more angles the better, as it is then more difficult for the birds to get between the threads. Until I adopted this plan we never could get a crop of fruit, but since we have done so we have never failed. The trees, moreover, are spoiled by disbudding, and have to be out back. For protect- ing wall trees I nse fishing nets and hexagon nets, hanging them from 16 in. moveable coping boards, and supporting them on small poles placed in a slanting direction from the wall. By this means we get good crops of fruit. Last year I tried a new material made of cotton netting, and I find it very useful, not only for protecting trees in bloom, but also for preserving ripe Strawber. ries from birds, and other ripe fruits from wasps, bees, flies, &c. During the severe frost, too, which we have had I have used it to great advantage in the fruit room. — W. D., Maidstone. King of ttie Pippins Apple— The quality of any variety of Apple is, no doubt, considerably influenced by soil and climate, but this sort, as " Cambrian" says, is generally a free bearer; still in no part of the kingdom that I have either grown or tasted it could it be classed amongst the best kinds for flavour. Cox's Orange Pippin is little inferior to it as a free bearer, and very much better in flavour, and there are a good many others I could name alike superior to it in the last named property. King of the Pippins with me always has been very indifferent, cooked. " Cambrian " possibly may not have the true kind. — T. Baines. Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GAEDEN. 5a NEW OR RARE PLANTS. BROUSSONETIA PAPYRIFERA VAR. BILLIARDI. The Paper Mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera), which, by-the- bye, should be more generally planted in the south and west, Broueeonetia papyrifera var. BilliarJi, presents a number of curious varieties of foliage, even in a wild state, and some of them have been in cultivation ; others have originated in gardens from seed. The accompanying A Leaf of BrouBSonetia papyrifera Tar. Billiardi ; half natnral size. illustrations represent a curious cut-leaved variety, raised from seed by the late Mr. Billiard, of Fontenay-aus-Roses. It is very near the old, though [rare variety dissecta, but differs in its more slender branches and less compact habit. W. B. Hemslet. Paraffin as an Insecticide.— Aa yet I have had no occasion to use this oil for killing insects, but it it be half aa good aa it is said to be it would be diflBcult to overrate its value. If it kills insects so readily it will also, I should say, prevent them from appearing, and, acting on thia principal, we are this winter putting a little paraffin in all the water with which we wash Vine rods and Peach trees, also in the water with which the honaea are cleansed, and in the mixture with which any of them are painted. I do not think any one who wishes to guard against insects during the coming season could do better than adopt thia plan. — Cambrian. THE INDOOR GARD EN. WINTER GARDENS. Nothing is more pleasing in the whole range of gar- dening, than the effects which may be produced in a taste- fully arranged and well-kept winter garden. We are therein enabled to give some slight idea of the general aspect of tropical and other vegetation. The preconceived and popular notion of a winter garden is a roomy, lofty structure, wherein Palms, &c., grow to tree size. This is so far correct ; such a structure represents a perfect winter garden ; but it is equally certain that the same principals which serve to guide us in the arrangement of large houses are applicable to smaller structures, the furnishing and keeping of which will entail but a moderate outlay. It is scarcely necessary to dwell upon the uses and advantages of a winter garden; its name sufficiently indicates theendandaim of its existence,a placeof resort when inclination, health, or weather forbids wandering far from home. One of the prettiest winter gardens I ever saw was very small ; it had been built for a lady in infirm health, and was attached to the house. In it was nothing rare or tender, but the subjects were suitable, tastefully arranged, and the hands of the owner her- self kept them healthy and clean by means of frequent wash- ings and spo"gings. Many an hour was thus pleasantly spent in the exercise of a loving care, which had its reward in the bright appearance of the plants. Winter gardens may be placed in two categories, viz., those in which heat is only applied to exclude frost, and those wherein a regular temperature is maintained. It will naturally be seen that the plants used for the two places must be somewhat different in character. In the former we must rely upon the inhabitants of temperate climes, but which we cannot well grow the year through in the open air in this country, such are some of the Araucarias, some Palms, also, Ferns, Camellias, Azaleas, Acacias, &c. ; in the latter we get a great variety of subjects, and are enabled to impart a strong tinse of tropical verdure to the arrangements by employing Palms, Pandanads, Stre- litzias, Brownias, &c. The great mistake made in winter gardens is overcrowding ; it is just the same here as in outdoor planting, thinning is not done in time, and the whole degene- rates into a weary tangle ; ultimately something must be taken away, with the result of more fully exposing the debilitated specimens. Now, let us suppose that we have a house to arrange — any- thing between 12 ft. and 20 ft. in height, and some 20 ft. wide by 40 ft. long. This, it will be seen, is not a large house, but it is spacious enough to allow of the specimens acquiring handsome proportions. Starting from the entrance — or, if the interior be commanded by any of the apartments of the dwel- ling, we must commence there — we should in the first place have before us an open breadth of green turf (Selaginella), which is truly beautiful when well kept. Towards the far end I would arrange the water, if such is to be introduced ; and I would always have the limpid element therein if possible. But here a word of caution : unless a constant supply of bright fresh sparkling water, such as a fish might thrive in, can be assured, do not attempt it, as nothing is more repulsive and dismal than dirty stagnant water. Hardly second in impor- tance is the shape and arrangement of the water basin : any- thing formal — having the appearance of a large cup sunk in the ground — must be avoided. The rockwork should be so arranged as to occupy about one-half of the water margin, and must be planted here and there with trailing and drooping plants, Ferns, &c. The edge of the water basin should also be studded with plants that will serve to break its monotony — Maidenhair, Hare's-foot, and other dwarf-growing Ferns ; Ficus repens, Tradescantia, &c., will serve admirably to drape the lower portion ; whilst the upper part may be studded with hardy Cacti, Cobweb Houseleek, and some kinds of plants which do not need constant moisture at the roots. Do not run into the too common error of building a rockwork without making ample provision for the growth of plants thereon. Shallow pockets, containing some 3 in. or 4 in. of soil, are of no use whatever. Anything planted therein to remain per- manently will, as soon as the soil is exhausted, exhibit a meagre and unsatisfactory appearance. The roots should be 64 THE GARDEN. [Jak. 18, 1879. able to work their way freely downwards, so that they may be continually finding fresh nutriment. In adjusting the various portions of the rocltwork, fissures should be therefore left so that there is no hindrance to the attainment of these condi- tions. This care is all the more necessary where air is freely admitted into the house, as there is then great difiioulty in supplying sufticient moisture when all the roots are near the surface. At the back of the rookwork, and so placed that it spreads and overhangs the same, some such graceful-habited plant as an Araucaria exoelsa or a Palm should be planted. Spreading away from each side, Tree Ferns, Dracajnas, Bamboos, and such free-growing ferns as Pteris arguta and NephrodiummoUe, should be so arranged that they have space enough in which to develop. The walk will naturally run round the building, and should be made to wind in such a manner that tue borders and corners are of unequal dimensions. This will allow of the arrangement of sundry little groups, each one having a character of its own, and will at the same time afford ample opportunity for the placing of single specimens. Should there be a dead wall, which, if the house be connected with the dwelling, will probably bo the case, it should have afRsed to it some neat trellis-work, and for covering the same I do not know of any thing better than Camellias. They lend themselves well to this kind of work, and the green is so lustrous and deep that, it they did not possess the additional merit of furnishing exquisitely beautiful flowers, they would on that account alone be invaluable for our present purpose. A few climbing plants are desirable in a winter garden ; it is here, indeed, that they appear to most advantage, and are better enabled to develope their true character than in more confined quarters. Thereisagood variety of climbers suitable for a cool house : Begonia jasminoides, Lapagerias, CobMa soandens variegata, Maudevilla suaveolens, and Hose Marechal Niel, are some of the best ; whilst for pillars Abutilons, Ehynohospermum jasminoides. Plumbago capensis, and Ha- brothamnus are all suitable. Flowering plants of all kinds may of course be introduced the whole year through with good effect. If Fuchsias are left in the turf, the pots may be sunk ; and Hyacinths, Tulips, Violas, and Primulas, &c., will have a vei'y pretty effect thus treated. The plants above enumerated are all suitable for a structure which is only heated to exclude frost. IE a continual warmth is to be maintained, then for the Camellias, Acacias, Arauca- rias, &c., we must substitute denizens of warmer regions. The arrangements may, however, be conducted in much tbe same manner as already recommended, only that it should be borne in mind that the more heat the more rapid will be the develop- ment of all plants subjected to it. A Palm in a warm house will grow much faster than when kept quite cool, and the growth of tropical plants in general is much more luxuriant than those which come from temperate climes. I have preferred to treat in a more special manner of the cool house, ioasmuch as it is better adapted to general requirements than when heat is constantly applied. The latter form of winter gardens demands a much greater amount of attention, and entails more expenditure, than if those plants only are employed which require merely the exclusion of frost. The arrangements detailed herein are not to be considered arbitrary ; individual tastes and fancies should be allowed free scope in the way of disposing the plants ; but the future career of the specimens must not be sacrificed in order to gain an immediate effect. I have endeavoured to show that the creation and maintenance of a winter garden is not a work involving a vast amount of labour and expense. I have often had an opportunity of ■witnessing the enjoyment derived from such a structure. In conclusion I may observe that, whatever may be the class of plants grown, there should be no attempt made to force growth, as such treatment will inevitably have the effect of distorting and destroying the symmetry of the subjects so treated. It is belter to let Nature develop herself in her own way and take her own time thereto, as, with constant supervision and attention to her wants, she will not fail in the end to reward us for our labour. J. Cokniiill. Byfieet. Begonia hydrocotylifolia manicate. — This is a hybrid between the two species whose name it bears. It has a vigorous, sturdy habit, flowers freely in winter, and when not in flower the whole plant has a strikingly handsome appearance. Catlings of it taken oil at midsummer, inserted singly in small pots filled with sandy soil, will make pretty little flowering plants by Christmas. A little extra warmth such as that furnished by a Cucumber frame will be useful for striking the cuttings and giving the young plants a start, but afterwards they will succeed in a warm greenhouse or intermediate house. — E. Hobday. TRITONIA AURBA IN POTS AND PLANTED OUT. If we take the year through till Chrysanthemums make their appearance in autumn, there is generally a dearth of orange or yellow flowers wherewith to embellish greenhouses or con- servatories, and these are colours that are, perhaps, more telling than any others, especially when associated with scarlet Pelargoniums, or the bright blue Browallia elata. The latter should be largely grown in every garden, as it is one o£ the best plants possible for furnishing cut flowers for bouquets or vases, and, by sowing at intervals, it may be had in good condition the whole year round. Tritonia aurea, as I have said, associates well with this, and is not half so well known as it deserves to be, for, besides being exceedingly effective, it is a plant that is very easily cultivated, all the shelter or pro- tection which it requires when grown in pot3 being that o£ an ordinary cold pit or frame, in which it thrives better than in any other situation. If kept in any place where the air gets dry, red spider is sure to attack its flag-like leaves, and, once this pest effects a footing, the health of the plant soon fails. Probably its liability to be attacked by red spider is one of the reasons why it is so seldom seen in gai-dens, but if those who have hitherto failed with it will only keep it entirely out of dry houses until it comes into bloom, they will not have the least difliculty with it, for it is of such a hardy nature that it will live and thrive well planted in any sheltered border where the soil is moderately light and well drained. For purposes of cutting, this is by far the best way of grow- ing it, as then it entails no labour in watering, and is much more floriferous than when restricted to the limited area of a pot. A row we have of it, planted close to the foot of a low south-west wall, affords great quantities of bloom, and saves running to the greenhouse, and all the preparation which we made for it was digging in a quantity of sand and leaf-mould, so as to lighten the soil, and keep it in a loose, open state. In this the plants spread and travel underground, somewhat resembliog in this respect the Couch Grass. The mistake which many make in growing Tritonia aurea is drying it off ; this its pseudo-bulbs will not bear, as they are not sufiiciently large or fleshy in themselves to keep alive, unless the soil be moist. The bulbs being at present comparatively dormant, now is the best time to get them, or to set about dividing and plant- ing or potting them. If grown in the latter way, 8-in. pots are the handiest and most suitable ; they should be drained with a few crocks, and over these some of the roughest por- tions of the soil .^ihould be placed. A mixture of peat and loam in about equal proportions suits them Dest, but either will do alone, the latter especially, if it be fresh and fibry. As they look best in a mass, from twelve to eighteen bulbs will be required for pots of the above-named dimensions, and these should be of the largest that can be picked out, and be regu- larly distributed and covered to the depth of about 2 in. This done, the next thing is to give them a soaking of water to settle the soil, when they will at once set to work in forming fresh roots, and till they have made plenty of these an.d some top growth the soaking in question will afford sufficient moisture to carry them on, as, till they get well into leaf, they absorb but little, and are injured if kept in too wet a condition. As before observed, a cold frame during their earlier stages of growth is the best place for them, and, if plunged in ashes so as to prevent frost reaching their roots, little, if any, covering beyond the glass will be needed, unless severe weather sets in. After the middle of May or so it is a good plan to plunge them outdoors, as then the genial rains and refreshing night dews help much in keeping the foliage clean and free from red spider. An occasional syringing and abundant supplies of water as growth progresses and summer advances will be Jan. IH, 1879.] THE GARDEK. 55 found to suit them perfectly. As soon as they begin to show bloom they may be taken to the greenhouse or conservatory and arranged so as to produce the best effect. As the flowers fade the right course is to lessen the water supply, but not to that degree as to bring about actual dryness, the only object being to ripen and rest tlio plants previous to potting, an operation that should be performed as soon as the foliage shows signs of decay. Any spare or weak bulbs or suckers that may be showing themselves will then come in for planting in any position similar to that previously alluded to ; in doing so they should be put in at a depth of about 5 in. or 6 in., and the surface of the soil should be coated over with Cocoa-nut fibre or] decomposed leaves, both of which are capital non- conductors, and keep out frost better than anything else. S. D. HEATING AND VENTILATING IN COLD WEATHER. I WAS pleased to see (p. 30) Mr. Fish'a remarks upon this sabject, for it la a most important one. Much lose of fnel is annually sus- tained from over anxiety to keep fires going briskly in frosty weather. There are two sources of beat for warming glass houses, viz., the sun and the fire, and these should aid, not run counter to each other. The BUD, of coarse, we cannot influence, but on a bright frosty morning we can anticipate his rising, by an hour or two, and discount, so to speak, his warmth, by checking the fire betimes leaving the sun his proper share of work to do. To keep fires burning briskly when the Bun is shining brightly, no matter how sharp the morning may be, is not only a waste of fuel but in many cases may do positive harm. When the warmth from a bright sun meets the heat from a brisk fire under a glass roof, it is next to impossible to maintain a genial at. mosphere in the house. In many cases all the fruit houses are crammed full of bedding plants in winter and spring, and they must be kept secure from frost ; the least amount of fire.heat will effect this, and it should be turned oit altogether the first thing in the mornin". I am of opinion that in the ventilation of glass houses in winter and spring, some means should be specially employed to make the cool air from the outside, whenever it is necessary to admit it, pass over the heating apparatus, or, if this cannot be done, then cover the open spaces with canvas or something similar that will act as a respirator in breaking up and distributing the cold currents ; air, when disseminated, oansea little or no draught when entering a buildinf, but I agree with Mr. Fish that if the fires be kept down, but little ventilation will be required, especially in large houses. Small houses heat more rapidly and require more attention, both in the management of the fire and also in ventilating. Aa regarda cool houses, devoted at this season mainly to the sheltering of plants for open-air decoration in summer, if the houses be kept altogether closed, on bright days, even if very frosty, a vapour will be raised inside by the Bun'a warmth, and I think it always best to give enon^h ventilation to induce this to escape rather than allow it to become condensed and drop amongst the plants. The proper management of fires for horticultural purposes is an art that reqnirea much painstaking thought. There are two main principles that must be ineisted on ; the firat is thorough cleanliness abont the boiler, and the second ia the careful management of the draught of the fire, ao as to insure just the right degree of combustion and no more. Wherever the smoke passes round the boiler, there aoot will accumulate, and the waste mattera of combustion are sometimes carried forward by the draught of the fire. There should therefore be periodical cleaning and scraping of all boiler fluea, so that the heat of the fire may come into direct contact with the iron surface of the boiler. The furnace doora should fit properly, or the draught cannot be regulated, and nnleaa thia is carefully attended to, a good deal of the heat may escape up the chimney and be wasted. In heating horticultural buildings a liberal outlay for piping in proportion to the work to be done will he found true economy. Iron pipea, it not severely atrained, wear out but alowly ; but if the apparatua baa to work at a high preasure, in order to maintain the requisite amount of temperature, there will come a time when aomething — either boiler or pipes — will give way, and the period of the greatest trial will be during severe frost, when a disorganised heating apparatus ia always a aoorce of danger and annoyance. Besides the greater danger of a mishap to an overworked apparatus, there ia the unhealthy character of the acorching heat to contend with, and ali who have had to work such spparatnses know that it ia a great mistake, both from a cultural and economical point of view, to stint the amount of piping. E. Hobday. flowers do bear some resemblance to those of that family, both in Btrueture and colour, but it has a shrubby habit, and flowera naturally in winter. Aa it ia so easily cultivated, and supplies a colour that ia always scarce, it ought to find a place in every collection. It is generally classed with stove plants, but it succeeds perfectly in an intermediate house. A little extra heat daring the time of growth will be beneficial, but when in flower it may be moved to the con- servatory, and, in a dry atmosphere, its large oluatera of violet, coloured flowera last a long time in perfection. It will succeed in fibry loam and peat, with a sprinkling of aand, and it flowera beat when not over potted. Cattinga made of its half-ripenod wood strike freely in bottom-heat, and pretty little blooming plants, one year old, may be had in 5-in. pots, or, under good culture, large, handsome Bpecimona may be produced in from two to three yeara. — E. Hobday THE FLOWER GARDEN. Hebeclinium ianthinum. — To the casual observer this plant has th? appearance of an enlarged variety of Ageratum, and its CARPETING BULB BEDS. The necessity for covering beds planted with Dutch or other bulbs, especially sorts which make scanty foliage, is so obvious that carpeting them with something green does not require recommendation. These bulbs are planted near the end of October or in November, and until their foliage begins to show itself aboveground early in spring the beds are simply a bare blank. To remedy this there are many dwarf plants which may be planted thickly between the lines of bulbs, or planted so as to cover the surface of the beds through which the bulbs may push their leaves and flower stems as they happen to come up. The best plan is to adopt a kind of double planting, first filling up the beds with bulbs as may bo determined upon, say with Hyacinths or tall Tulips in the middle, banding them round with dwarfer Tulips, Crocuses, Anemones, or other bulbs. The place for the bulbs should be marked off in lines, either straight or curved, according to the shape of the beds, planting the bulbs with a dibble ; after inserting the bulbs leave the holes open over them so that their exact positions may be seen ; then proceed to plant the carpeting plants in single or double lines between the bulbs, according to the size of tlie plants used. The planting of these effectually fills up the holes made for the bulbs, and one dressing of the surface is sufficient for all. It is necessary to remark that in planting between or among rows of bulbs, varieties of plants must be used suitable to the size of the foliage and colour of the flowera of the bulbs, as, for instance, the plants which would suit among beds of Hyacinths or Pottebakker Tulips would not suit amongst Snowdrops or Scillas, and, again, attention must be paid to the colour of the flowers of the carpeting plants, inasmuch as both they and the bulbs will be in bloom at the same time. For instance, the effect of blue Hyacinths would be entirely spoiled by having a carpet of some purple-flowering plant beneath them. Fortunately for spring flower gardening there are no lack of dwarf plants with flowers of all shades of colour suitable for our purpose. Suppose the centre of a bed is filled with blue Hyacinths, the surface of the bed may be carpeted with Gnaphalium lanatum in a very ready way at the same time as the bulbs are planted by simply taking off cuttings of the Gnaphalium with four or more good leaves attached to them and dibbling them between the rows of the Hyacinths. It will be found that not a leaf will be lost, and the cuttings will soon be rooted plants covering the bed well before the Hyacinths are in bloom. Of course, in the absence of rooted plants, which are preferable, or in the absence of rooted and prepared plants of Arabis albida, cuttings of this showy spring plant may be inserted in the same way with the certainty that they will all be rooted by spring and will flower profusely. If the variegated variety of the Arabis be used so much the better ; these same plants will also answer amongst red Hyacinths. Among red and white Hyacinths the dwarf, early-flowering Viola Blue King answers well, as do also Au- brietia purpurea, A. doltoidea, and the variegated form of A. purpurea. These may be planted in much the same way as the Arabis, only in tufts instead of single cuttings ; but good-rooted tufts properly prepared are the best. These plants may also be used for carpeting among the taller Tulips, such as the Potterbakkers, Eex rubrorum, Canary Bird, and others. An- brietia grceca is likewise specially suited among the tall white 56 THE GAEDEX. [Jan. 18, 1879. and yellow Tulipa as it is taller than the other Aubrietias. Another pretty plant for carpeting among white Hyacinths or Tulipa is Silene pendula compacta, sown in .July and not grown into over large bunches on a dry, poor soil. In planting all these low-spreading plants, care must be taken that they are not buried in the ground ; a mere pressing on the surface will be sufficient planting, with a little fine soil just spread over their roots. A very small amount of roots seems to be suffi- cient to keep them in the best of health, a fact not to be won- dered at when it is seen that dense cushions of them spread and hang over rocks sometimes several feet from the point where the roots are anchored in the ground. For carpeting among the dwarfer bulbs, such as Scillas, dwarf Tulips and Snowdrops, or rather for alternating with them in lines to cover the ground in winter, we have Daisies red, white, and pink, and the variegated Bellis aucubasfolia (a single form of •which, by the way, grows abundantly among the Grass here), and a very dwarf, floriferous, and double red kind called Rob Koy. But among the prettiest dwarf flowering plants for low carpeting in spring are the prostrate Phloxes amongst which P. Nelsoni is quite a gem, as, indeed, is P. frondosa and P. rep- tans ; it is necessary to have these well prepared and grown into little patches. Veronica repens, Omphalodes verna, and Gentiana verna are also all suitable carpet plants among the dwarfest bulbs. Other plants might be named as spring flowering, but which could scarcely be classed as carpeting plants, such as Iberises, Alyssums, Hepaticas, and Primroses : these are more suitable for massing by themselves than for carpeting among bulbs. But there are numbers of plants which may be classed as non-flowerers suitable for carpeting the edges of beds among dwarf bulbs, or, indeed, among any bulbs. Of these there are the various hardy Sedums, such as S. lydium, S. glaucum, S. corsicum, S. rupestre, and the Saxifrages, such as hypnoides, hirta, rosularis, pectinata, Andrewsi, longitolia, and a pretty one called capilipes. In order to have a good stock of all these plants at the right time, they ought to be increased by division in autumn or very early in spring, and planted in nursery beds on a dry bottom, and properly attended to as to watering and cleanliness until they form compact tufts that can be lifted with balls when re- quired, or they may be increased by means of cuttings inserted about the end of October in sandy soil in cold frames, from whence they should be moved to nursery beds in spring, select- ing some moist situation not over exposed to the sun, so as to grow them quickly into patches. For carpeting among Lilies, Gladioli, Crown Imperials, and other tall-growing bulbs, the same plants may be used and allowed to remain per- manently in the ground ; to this list may be added all the Violas, which amongst themselves include endless variety, and several of the Mimuluses ; such kinds as M. moschatus and Har- risoni, cupreus, and the larger hybrid sorts, make good carpeting plants on soil suitable for Lilies. The large-foliaged Saxifrages also come in well for this purpose, such as S. opposi- tifolia, and among the tallest Lilies Saxifraga crassifolia. These are plants which do not root very deeply in the soil and which in winter may be lifted with the spade in thin sods or patches, with a thin slice of soil attached to their roots, until the border or bed is dug or renovated, when they way be re- turned to the same place again. W. D. Buhlin. wonld have to be provided; a row of drain tiles through the bed, with the necessary outlet, or a layer of rubble would make this part of the affair efficient. Then the soil would need eome special preparation ; in fact, the same care should be exercised as in making a Vine border. This may appear to involve a considerable amount of labour, but it must be remembered that Cannaa last several years, and will need very little labour to be expended upon them afterwards. The work may also be beet accompliahtd at that season of the year when there is the least amount of ground work to do, and the beds would be ready to be planted when required. In winter they wonld, of course, need pro- tection, and some provision might be made for throwing off surplus moisture. In spring a dressing of soot might be gently forked in, and in the growing season thick mulchings combined with copious manure waterings, would insure their fnll and hearty development. One of your correspondents remarks, that when left in the ground the young growth is apt to get nipped by frost ; some Hazel rods • bent over and covered with mats would, however, effectually insure them against such a mishap. By adopting these precautions there would not be much danger of their perishing, and it wonld be a boon to many it they could be left in the ground for a aeries of years, thus obviating the necessity of annually propagating and planting. Portions of the pleasure grounds, which are necessarily bare in the summer, would thus be agreeably furnished without taxing in any perceptible manner either the time or resources of the ground. The system is worth a fair trial, and, if successful, would enable the grower of fine.foliaged plants to decorate his garden at little expense. The ordinary routine of summer bedding entails considerable labour and anxiety, and anything which will tend to lessen either the one or the other must be welcome alike to the amateur and pro- fessional gardener. J- Cornhill. PERMANENT PLANTATIONS OP CANNAS. I AM pleased to find some of your readers giving us the benefit of their experience on this subject, as I believe that when it is generally known how easily Cannas may be grown, their culture will be undertaken by many who have hitherto been deterred by the sup- posed difficulties attending it. Those who are interested in this matter will feel indebted to Mr. Sisley (p. 36) for the list anddescrip. tion of varieties furnished by him. Reverting to the question of permanent plantations of Cannas, I may state that the only reason I had for doubting the advisability of retaining them after the second year arose from the fear that, owing to the exhausting character of the plants the soil would become too much worn out to admit of their succesaful development. It is, however, evident that this little difficulty may be overcome, and I now think that by the exercise of a little judgment Cannas may be planted out to remain in one spot for an indefinite period. In the first place good drainage NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN; The Paris Daisy. — This plant, which is, in reality, no Daisy at all, but a species of Chrysanthemum, is very popular about Paris, and is extensively grown there and in many other parts of France. To a casual observer it has rather a common appearance, the flowers much resembling those of the Ox-eye Daisy, but it associates remarkably well with many other plants. It is of such a wiry, enduring nature, that it will flourish and flower profusely in the poorest of soils, and in the hottest and dryest of weather. It would doubtless be found useful in this country on parching sandy soils, where many of our flower garden plants refuse to grow well. In Normandy it is much prized as a pot plant, and finds a ready sale in rural towns for window and room decoration, for which purpose I have found it very useful. If kept growing on for several years in succession it assumes an arborescent form, and in this state it is very effective either placed in the centre of a bed, with dwarf-growing plants around it, or grouped with other flowering and fine.foliaged plants. — J. COENHILL. Hardiness of Primulas. — Allow me to add my testimony to the hardiness of Primulas, especially P. japonica. Not only did they stand well last winter with me, but they bloomed well in five whorls ; they were in good material on a dry rockery, but not pro- tected. P. cortusoidea, P. alpina marginata, P- viscosa, P. pulcher. rima, P. minima, P. integrifolia, P. seniensie, P. acaulis rubra, P. fa- rinoHa, and P. denticulata, all appear to be standing the present severe frost. I hope no one will be discouraged by a fear as to their hardiness ; few plants are more hardy, if any are, and they are gems we cannot well spare. — J. Wood, Kirkstall. Euphorbia Lathyris. — The British Euphorbia of which your correspondent speaks (p. 36) is probably E. Lathyris, or the Caper Spurge, a plant which is common in some of our woods and thickets. It is an ornamental plant, and might prove a pleasing feature in both parks and gardens. I have never before heard it called Jacob's Ladder, which is, I presume, Polemonium coeruleum. — B. Jenkins. Stobsea purpurea. — I can fully endorse all that "A. P." says (p. 36) respecting this beautiful Composite. In the spring of last year I rose a batch of seedlings which, when fit to handle, were potted, the larger ones into 6-in., and the smaller ones into 3. in. pots. In these they grew rapidly, and nearly all the plants flowered, but, being confined to pots, they failed to produce as many blossoms as they otherwise would have done. My plants have proved themselves to be perfectly hardy, and my old plant in the open border is, after the severe frost which we have experienced, as fresh and well as ever, having from six to eight breaks upon it, and what most indicates its hardiness is the fact that it was only transplanted a few weeks before the first frost of the present winter set in. — E. Jenkins, Maida Vale, Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 57 NOTES OF THE WEEK Large White IJapageria. — The largest plant of this which we have yet seen is in Mr. Hanbarj's garden at The Poles, Ware. It covers the greater part of the side of a span-roofed house, and flowers freely from May till February. It is planted in a raised bed over the hot-water pipes, and in the height of the season many hundreds of blooms have been counted on it at one time. Opposite this is a fine plant of L. rosea, and the two, when in bloom, produce a striking effect. Seedling Amaryllisea. — There will soon be a fine display of these in the Pine-apple Nursery. There is, indeed, a quantity in flower already, and there are ^.,000 coming on in succession. They are set under stages or other out-of-the-way places, where they can be kept dry until they show bloom, when they are brought into lighter quarters, and are given plenty of water. Out of such a quantity of seedlings something which will be in advance of existing kinds may reasonably be expected. Thyrsacanthua rutilans. — This fine old plant, though met with in most gardens, is seldom seen grown in perfection. In this state we found it, however, the other day in Mr. Hanbury's garden at The Poles, Ware. Plants of it, growing in 8-in. or 9-in. pots, were fur- nished with numerous branches, with bushy heads of large deep green leaves, and scores of long, streaming racemes of scarlet flowers. Placed on shelves or brackets, such plants have a charming effect for many weeks during winter, and, for hanging baskets, few plants are better adapted. The results recorded are effected by planting young plants in good, rich soil out.of-doors in summer, and lifting them in autumn. Plants struck from cuttings in spring are preferred to old ones, and the growth which they make, compared with those grown continually in pots, is surprising. Bomarea oligantha. — This has been continually in bloom with with me since July last, and its clusters of prettily. spotted, reddish, orange flowers are very handsome. It is a plant that is easily cul. tivated, only requiring to be kept free from frost. In brighter weather the flowers are much higher in colour than they are now, bnt they then last in perfection only a fortnight, while now they keep in good condition for a month. — Max LEicnrLiN, Baden-Baden. Viburnum lucidum. — I cultivate a shrub under this name which is now beautifully in flower. It looks like a robust-growing Lanrnstinus, but it has much larger and finer foliage, which is of a bright shining green, and quite uninjured by the frost, severe though it has been this winter. There is an evergreen sort, with thick, shining leaves, from North America, of which I do not now recollect enough to be sure of the two being distinct, or whether my specimen is the American sort or not. However that may be, I can assert positively that the plant in question is one of the finest shrubs for forcing with which I am acquainted, and, thus treated, it forms one cf the most showy of plants about Christmas time, and, indeed, all through the winter months. There is also V. rugosum, a large, round, hairy-leaved sort, which is likewise evergreen. Some of the deciduous Viburnums are very fine, both in flower and fruit. Where, for instance, can one find a more charming bush, when covered with ripe fruit, than our wild V. Lantana or Wayfaring tree. Between Maiden Newton and Crewkerne this charming plant grows along the roadsides on the chalk in splendid style, so fine, indeed, that the way- farer is often tempted to carry off a bunch of it. — Jonx Scoit, Merriott, Somei'set. Poinsettias at Ware.— There has lately been in Mr. Hanbnry'^ garden at The Poles, near Ware, one of the finest displays of Poin" settias which we have seen for a long time. The plants, consisting of fine specimens, each bear from twelve to twenty brilliant heads of floral bracts, and are well furnished with large, healthy, dark green leaves. Such results as these have been obtained in the following manner : — After the plants had done flowering they were put to rest, and early in summer, when they again broke into growth, they were shaken out of the pots and planted ont-of-doors in a sheltered situation in well prepared ground. Here they were kept liberally supplied with water till the weather began to get cold in autumn, when they were carefully lifted, potted, and placed in a little heat, and shaded for a few days until root action had again taken place, when they were exposed to the light, and air was admitted to them freely. Under this treatment fine plants are produced, which from November on. wards make a grand display in the conservatory. At lifting time, any plants which are rather straggling have some 6 in. taken off their tops, and these are inserted into 4-in. or 5-in. pots, which are imme- diately plunged in a brisk bottom-heat, where they quickly take root, and form compact little plants, which are very useful for room deco- ration. The mode of culture here practised might with advantage be followed in gardens where a good display is required in winter, and the results would be infinitely better than those obtained from po culture, viz., long single-stemmed plants, nearly leafless, and bearing but indifferent flower-bracts. Primroses in Covent Garden. — Some out-door flowers seem to have survived the late severe weather ; among these are Christmas Roses and the common wood Primrose. The former are to be found in flower in some of the London nurseries, and plants of the latter in full .bloom are now offered for sale in Covent Garden Market. White Clove Carnations in the Flower Garden. — Thos are grown largely by Mr. Hill at The Poles, Ware, as bedding plants. Young plants are used for the purpose, and these are struck from cuttings in autumn. They are wintered in a temporary wooden frame, and, thus treated, they are far more satisfactory in the flower garden than an over abundance of scarlet Pelargoniums, crimson Beet, and similar plants. Daphne indica rubra.— I have a good-sized plant of this Daphne, on which there are from twenty to thirty good trusses of bright blossoms, that fill the house with perfume. So useful is this plant at this time of the year that no greenhouse should be without it. — J. W., Llanstephati, Builth. Lachenalia pallida purpurea. — This is the name given to a handsome purple.flowered form of this useful wiuter.flowering bulbous plant, now in bloom in the Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham. Though not one of the showiest of the Lachenalias, it is, neverthe- less, a useful variety. Gesnera Cliftoni. — This is one of the best of the wiuter.flowering Gesneras. It has large, velvety-green leaves, with handsomely, fringed edges. Its flowers, which are produced in great, pyramidal trusses, are brilliant orange. scarlet, and contrast effectively with the foliage. We saw well-grown plants of it in a garden in Hertfordshire the other day, where it is much used for table decoration. St. Paul's Churchyard Garden. — According to the "City Press," invitations have been sent out from the architect's depart, ment of the Corporation to firms conversant with the art of designing public gardens, inviting them to submit designs for the embellishment of the ground around St. Paul's Cathedral. The work will probably, it is said, include improvements of an extensive character, as well as some alterations regarding the outer railings. The scheme in its full details has not, however, yet been finally decided. Staphylea colchica. — Flowering examples of this hardy shrub, shown by Messrs. Veitoh & Sons, at South Kensington, on Tuesday last, attracted much attention, it being discovered that a most valua. ble addition had been made to our list of plants for winter forcing. Its leaves when forced are of a lively glossy green, and its flowers, which are produced in large trusses on every shoot, are of a waxy whiteness, like those of the Tuberose. Besides being attractive on the plants, such flowers will be most useful in bouquets, much better, indeed, than those of the Deutzia. It is, as yet, comparatively scarce, bnt, when better known, it will doubtless be largely grown as a market plant. Tulips, Lily of the Valley, and Squills.— These form unusually effective objects just now in Covent Garden Market; they are planted in 6-in. pots, and consist of about four scarlet Tulips, six spikes of Lily of the Valley, and a few plants of Soilla sibirioa, among which are introduced small plants of Adiantam graoillimam. Baskets arranged in a similar manner make charming subjects for table decoration. The French Government has conferred the Cross of the Legion of Honour on Mr. Martin J. Sutton, managing partner of the firm of Sutton & Sons, Reading, as a special recognition of the merits of the exhibits of that firm at the Paris Exhibition, and of the services thereby rendered to horticulture and agriculture. We should add that this is the only instance, we believe, in which this distinction has been conferred on any English exhibitor of seeds at any French Universal Exhibition. Prizes for Vegetables. — Messrs. Carter & Co., High Holborm announce the following prizes for vegetables, to be competed for during the year: — Thirteen dishes of vegetables (to be competed for on June 21), to comprise 12 Onions, 12 Carrots, 12 Turnips, 12 Toma- toes, 3 Cauliflowers, 50 pods of Peas, 6 Globe Artichokes, 50 pods of Peas (distinct), 50 pods of Broad Beans, 50 pods of French Beans, 12 Potatoes, 2 Cucumbers (dissimilar), 3 Lettuces (Cos or Cabbage). 1st prize, £7 ; 2nd, £5 ; 3rd, £3 ; 4th, £1 10s. ; 5th, £1 ; 6th, 10s. Four dishes of Peas : — 50 pods of Carter's Telephone, 50 pods of Carter's Little Wonder, 50 pods of Carter's Challenger, 50 pods of Culverwell's Telegraph : 1st prize, £3 3s. ; 2nd, £2 23. ; 3rd, £1 Is. ; 4th, 153. i 5th, lOs. 6d. For the best fruit of Dell's Hybrid Melon (to be competed for Aug. 2G) ; 1st prize, £3 Ss. ; 2nd, £1 lis. 6d. 3rd, 10s. 6d. 58 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1879. NOTES FROM KEW. Stove Plants. — A very elegant and desirable balbona plant 13 Hartweg's Calliphruria (C. Hartwegiana),a member of the Amaryllis family. It has rather large globose bulbs, developing from two to four leaves about 8 in. long, with a compressed and channelled stalk ; the blade is about 4 in. long and 2 in. wide, lanoe shaped, and of a deep green colour. The Bower stalk is about 1 ft. high, terminated by about six blossoms, borne in an umbellate manner, li in. lopg, funnel shaped, divisions slightly spreading, and pure white, the tube with a dash of green at the base. It is yet rare in gardens, though not a novelty, as it was first discovered by Hartweg in 18-12 growing on the mountains of New Granada, and was, a few years ago, re- introduced in quantity by Mr. Bull. The searlet.headed Calliandra (C. hsomatooephala) is a highly ornamental shrub, about 2 ft. high, though, in its native habitat, it frequently attains a height of from 30 ft. to 40 ft. Its leaves assume a bilobed character, each lobe being again divided into about eight pairs of leaflets 1 in. long. The flowers are produced freely in tassel-like heads, about li in. across, consisting of thread-like stamens of a bright red colour, which, together with its elegant foliage, render it very attractive. The cerulean Cypella (C. ccErulea), a native of Brazil, is a magnificent Iridaceous plant, and it is to be regretted that its beauty, as well as that of its congeners, is so ephemeral. It has bold, sword-like foliage, 3 ft. high, and from about the middle of one of them peeps a cluster of flower buds, which expand consecutively, and are enclosed in a greeu. pointed sheath. The blossoms consist of six divisions, of which the outer three are the largest and of a deep sky blue, often blotched with a deeper hue ; the inner three are twisted upon themselves, their tips are of a rich violet.pnrple, and the bases of a tawny yellow barred with chocolate. It richly deserves a place in every collection, and is, moreover, a plant of the easiest culture. Bojer's Euphorbia (E. Bojeri), a native of the same country and in'roduced about the samt time as the well-known E.splendens, is far less frequently seen than that kind, though it has much richer coloured flower leaves, which are borne quite as freely. In habit, also, it strongly resem. bles it, having the same rigid, grey branches beset with sharp spines, from between each pair are produced the short, oblong leaves. It may be needless to remark that the sams mode of treatment is applicable to both. The yellow Barleria (B. flava), an old introduc- tion from Arabia, seems well nigh discarded too, as it is seldom met with, but it is, nevertheless, a very attractive plait, producing its bright yellow blossoms in succession throughout the winter. It is of slender growth, about 2 ft. high, with opposite elliptical leaves, and the flowers are borne in dense, terminal clusters, and accom. •nanied by several sharp. pointed flower leaves. Another little plant remarkable for producing a continuous succession of blossoms is the Mexican Tetranema (Tetranema mexicana), which grows about 6 in. high, and has closely-arranged oval leaves, from the axils of which are developed nnmerona flower stalks terminated by a cluster of small Pentstemon-like blossoms mottled with purple and white. Sabine's Strobilanthes (S. Sabiniana) once more attracts attention on account of its numerous deep mauve blossoms, which are produced freely. S. glomerata has flowers very similar in size and colour, but it is of a spreading, horizontal habit, and its leaves are covered on both sides with silky, crimson hairs. The variety speciosa is a great improvement on the type, having larger and more deeply coloured flowers. Both are natives cf the East Indies. Oreenhouse Plants. — Foremost in novelty and interest is Walker's Ainslitea (A. Walkeri), an extremely elegant little plant discovered a few years ago growing at a considerable elevation in Hong Kong; it is a Composite, though at first sight very unlike one, and nearly related to the beautiful South American Mutisias. It is about 1 ft. high, and has a woody stem clothed on the upper half with numerous narrow leaves, with a few sharp serratures at the margins. The flower heads are arranged in a loose racemose manner on an erect stalk, and consist each of about three flowers, with four narrow, pure white divisions curled in a remarkable way, and with a purplish red column of stamens rising from the centre of each. The green-leaved Veltheimia (V. viridifolia) deserves a passing notice; it is a capital plant for cool conservatory decoration during winter; it has numerous large deep green leaves wavy at the margins. The flower stalks rise from 1 ft. to 2 ft. in height, terminated by a dense raceme of narrow tubular blossoms 1 in. long, which are, together with the stalk, of a pale flesh colour, and very copiously marked with spots of a darker shade. This handsome plant comes from the Cape of Good Hope, and has been many years in gardens. Tremandra verticillata is another excellent plant. It has a neat habit and whorls of narrow leaves, from the axils of which a pro. fusion of rich purple blossoms are borne on tbread-like stalks about the size of a sixpenny piece. Resembling it in habit is T. hirsuta, which, at a glance, is recognised by the hairiness of its branches and leaves, as well as by its rosy blossoms. Both were introduced many years ago from Swan River, and the latter is also known as T. Hugeli. Banksia spinulosa, from the same country, is a remark- able Protead about 2 ft. high, in habit much resembling a dwarf Conifer, as it has needle-shaped leaves arranged in the same manner. It produces dense erect cones of its curious blossoms of a deep orange colour. W. ^XiJLTE CXj2C. THE NEW WHITE HYDRANGEA. Drawn by Mrs- DUFFIELD. The new white Hydrangea, the subject of our illustration this week, is of Japanese origin- It was introduced to the United States by Mr. Thomas Hogg, an American traveller in Japan, wiiose name is not new to our readers in connection with Japanese plants. In the summer of 187o, Messrs. James Veitch & Sons, of the Royal Exotic Nursery, Chelsea, were appointed agents for the distribution of the plant in Europe, which commenced in the autumn of that year. In the follow- ing spring (1877) this Hydrangea, under the name of Thomas Hogg, was exhibited at the shows and meetings of the Royal Horticultural and the Royal Botanic Societies, when it received a first-class certificate from the former, and a certificate of merit from the latter. Its pure white flowers, large trusses, the length of time during which it continues in bloom, and its perfectly distinct character, at once secured for it many admirers. It has also been well received on the Continent, especially in France, where it is cultivated not only in private gardens, but also as a market plant. Hydrangea Thomas Hogg is closely allied to the common Hydrangea, and it has proved quite as hardy as that invaluable old plant. The white flowers of this kind will be a welcome addition to the pink and blue ones, the ornaments of so many gardens in autumn. HARDINESS OF HYDRANGEAS. As regards the correctness of M. Sisley's note (p. 28) as to the hardi • ness of Hydrangeas, except in districts when the frost is very severe, I have little doubt, as I do not think that any of our Hydrangeas where fully exposed, are at all injured, although the thermometer has more frequently been below 20^ Pahr. than above that point for some time past. But in spring, when the buds begin to swell, a slight amount of frost, especially if the sun strikes them early in the morning in a frozen state, will completely ruin all bloom for the season, while plants that have been checked by removal would escape by being later in starting into growth. It is, however, at present, premature to speak of the full effects of the frost, as I have a vivid remembrance of former severe frosts when many trees and sbrnba that appeared to have escaped, and that looked fresh and green when thaw set in ultimately died, or were so crippled as to be quite disfigured, and unlikely ever again to become ornamental objects. la the present winter even ordinarily mild localities have had a fuli share of frost, yet, as regards its effects, I quite agree with " Cam- brian" (p. 42), that the ripeness of the wood has much to do with escape from its effects, and whatever may be the opinion of others as regards the climate of France as compared with that of Kent or other southern counties, I am of opinion that although the average temperatures of the two might show but slight difference, the chance of thoroughly ripening the wood in autumn would be decidedly in favour of the most southern station, and consequently M. Sisley's plants would bear a degree of cold that might prove fatal to plants that had made their growth in a humid atmosphere. I find our Camellias, Aralias, and similar plants fully exposed, to be apparently but little injured; but the wind and frost that ushered in the new year have been far more destructive generally than the more intense frost that we had before Christmas, as the covering of snow greatly protected both tops and roots, and probably the latter are more sus- ceptible of extremes of temperature than the former, as I observe that even the hardiest plants did not regain their usual luxuriant aspect immediately the thaw set in, but only gradually aa the frost relaxed its hold of the soil about their roots. Jajies Groom. Linton, Kent. Best Late-blooming' Chrysanthemums. — The following are well worth growing, viz. , Elaine, Fair Maid of Guernsey, White Venus, Fleur de Marie, Madame Marthe, Mrs, Rundle, and Bob. — D. 3> ^1 .^> A Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 59 ICE HOUSES AND HOW TO FILL THEM. The following description of a most durable and at the same time useful icehouse, together with the method of filling it, may perhaps interest some of your readers. I am of opinion that the best form for an icehouse is a perfect circle, or some- thing very nearly approaching it, and my reason for this is, that, mathematically speaking, more can be put on a circular base than on that of any other form. A circular icehouse, too, can be filled more easily than any angular building. An ice- house should be substantially built of 14 in. brickwork, set in cement, upon a foundation of well-made concrete ; the outer surface of the brickwork should be covered with asphalte to 6 S^ISM" i^^MES^I' Ice-liouse; Elevation. 1, asphale; 2, passage; 3, sronnd line ; i, ce-well ; 5, water ; 6, platform ; 7, drain ; 8, concrete. prevent the percolation of water to the inside ; great care must also be taken that the drainage of the structure is perfect. To ensure this the floor should be concave, with a grating of large dimensions placed in the centre for the free passage of the water produced by the melted ice. Beneath the grating a well or cesspool must be constructed to hold any sediment that may find its way to it ; from this well the main drain, which must be ample for the purpose, should be led. At about two-thirds the height of the building, a doorway, for the purpose of fill- ing and getting out the ice when wanted for use, should be fixed, and from this entrance a covered passage or corridor must be built with an outer door ; outside this again a, platform cf Ice-lioufle ; ground plan ; 1, asphalte ; 2, passage ; 6, platform, stone or wood should be firmly fised, the dimensions of which may be about 10 ft. square ; this platform, however, may, if desired, be movable. The best position for an icehouse is some convenient place in the pleasure ground or the wild garden. If properly managed the building may be very nearly buried and the mound around it tastefully planted with trees and shrubs ; the top and walls should be covered with various creepers, such as Clematis, Ivy, Hypericums, &c. ; thus treated an icehouse really becomes an ornament rather than otherwise. When the season for filling it is favourable, the best ice for the purpose is that from 1 in. to 2 in. in thickness ; this is carted and thrown up upon the platform ; there men break it and pound it with heavy sticks bent at the end, or with any handy kind of club until it is broken quite small. Indeed, it cannot be too finely pounded, for the smaller it is the better it will pack and con- sequently the longer it will keep. Having placed about 1 ft. in thickness of straw over the bottom of the house, and, as far as possible, up the sides, the ice is shovelled in, and here again men beat and ram it into a solid mass ; this is continued until the house is filled as high as is practicable, care being taken that straw is built up against the brickwork as the filling pro- ceeds, and that the ice is spread in thin layers each of which is well rammed. The top is then filled with bundles of straw, as is also the passage, in order to prevent the ingress of air. The doors should fit as closely as possible for the same reason. The accompanying is a sketch of such an icehouse as I have attempted to describe ; its size, of course, will depend upon circumstances, but, as will be seen, the capacity of the one re- presented may be much increased without any addition to its height. Charles Dennis. Soathwark Parle. EFFECT OF THE FROST IN THE RIVIERA. A WRITER in the " Times," some few weeks ago, described the flonrishiDg winter condition of the half-hardy shrubs and trees in the Riviera. Could he now cast eyes on the very vegetation he described so glowingly, I think he would see cause to modify his expressiona. A frost of 5', or 6° at most, with a keen east wind, has brought about the change. Vegetation has been unable to withstand it, and it has left too surely the marks of its track, which only the warm spring breezes can effaoe. It is chiefly the succulent plants and shrubs that have suffered. The Datura cornigera, the pride of the winter garden in kindlier years, has had its floweta and topmost shoots destroyed. Plants from 10 ft. to 15 ft. high, usually loaded in January with pendent, fragrant blooms, have barely a flower left to tell of glory departed. The loohromaa both have shared the same aad fate. Sparmannia, a native of the Cape, ia but a wreck of its former self, wherever it has been exposed to the searching east wind. The Salvias have mostly lost their blooms ; S. verticiUata and tomentosa should have j ast now been bright with bloa. soma ; the conspicuous S. cardinalis, another glory of the winter garden, has not a truss of flowers left. The Mallow-worta again, such aa Abutilon album, Achania Malvaviscus, and Sphojralcea umbellata, are all scorchtd in the tops, and oEEer dried leaves and blackened buda in lieu of blossom and greenery. Still the grand old Eucalyptus globulus has weathered the blast, and many a spray of its singular blossoms ia seen on the tops of the older trees. Young saplings, however, have suffered where they have been unsheltered from the blast. The fine blue Solanum lanceolatum is just now a maaa of bright bloom; ita big, downy leavea have doabtless served it for shelter, even ia the open. Oae plant that has pleased me in the winter— a native, I believe, of the Cape— has held its own in the general ravage; I allude to the Eriocepbalum, which does service as Box edging in the Riviera; it ia in full bloom just now. When in seed, this Composite looks as if stuck over with little balls of cotton wool, aa the name itself implies. Teucrium bajtonicum has moatly lost its blooms, but retains ita leaves and stems nninjured- It is used as a thick hedge at San Remo to shut in our garden at the Victoria from the sea air. An old plant of Echeveriametallica, which has stood in the same place for years, has been sadly handled, especially at the junction of the leaf and the stem. Linum trigynum, usually a golden mass in the January garden, has not, I really believe, a flower left to expand, and the leavea are strewing the ground thickly. The young Date Palms look very uncomfortable, but will doubtless recover from the severe check. Such is the condition of the vegeta- tion, as it presents itself to me, after the treatment it haa received from the rude east wind. Peter Inchbald. San Eeino, Itahj. Nettles.— I have read (p. 4) Mr. Harpur Crewe'a protest against M. Lavallee's remarks respecting Nettles. According to my opinion Nettles are exotic plants, brought at some very remote period from Asia, and, like the Poppy (Papaver Rhseas) and many similar plants, follow man wherever he establiahea himself, and are never found far from cultivated places. I think, then, that M. Lavallee's assertion in reference to the Nettle is correct. England being highly cultivated, it is not extraordinary that Nettles should be found here and there at some distance from habitations. The following ia a curious incident respaoting them— While the Nettles (Urtioa dioica, U. arena, and U. pilalitera) abound in all the other parts of southern France on the Mediterranean, I have not yet seen a single plant, either in gardens or elsewhere, at Antibes, Cannes, Nice, Mentone, &o., it seems as if the climate of Lower Provence is unfavourable to their growth, a fact for which I am quite unable to account or under- stand.—C. Naudin, Villa Thuret, Antibes. 60 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 18, 1879. TREES, SHRUBS, & WOODLANDS. EATB OF GROWTH AND QUALITY OP TIMBBE. I DOUBT if Mr. Baines' remarks in reference to this matter (p. 28) will be accepted as correct by those acquainted with the subject. Speaking of the quality of the wood of the Wellingtonia, Mr. Baines says, " I think there is but little room for doubt, unless the tree is an excep- tion to all others of a quick-growing character, for, taking a broad view of the subject, quality, which may be set down to mean strength, toughness and durability, is present in proportion to the time re- quited for its formation ;" and again further on he says, "In fact, the natural laws which govern the development of vegetable life in the formation of woody fibre appear to point generally in one direc- tion, which is that slow growth means comparative strength and durability." Now both of these statements are, to a great extent, calculated to mislead. Fast-growing trees are not always compara- tively the most useless, nor do trees of the same species, like the Oak, for example, produce better timber when they are grown slow than fast. On the last point I may simply refer Mr. Baines to Lindley's " Theory and Practice of Horticulture," where he will find the matter physiologically explained ; and also the Admiralty Test Tables, which prove that the faetest-growu Oak timber is the best by a good deal as regards strength, toughness, and durability. Now let ns compare the different species of trees, and see how far Mr. Baines' statements hold good. Take the Beech, which in habit and rate of growth is very like the Oak ; but it is well known that it possesses neither strength nor durability, and hence is not employed for building purposes, while tho Spanish Chestnut, which grows about as fast again as the Beech, is hardly inferior to Oak for any purpose, and after a time hardly distinguishable from it; hence the much disputed question as to whether Westminster Abbey is roofed in with Chestnut or Oak, but it is generally considered to bo the former. Next let ua take the Laburnum, which attains its natural height in less than twenty years, and is a comparatively old tree at thirty years of age when it produces timber unsurpassed for hardness, heaviness, and fine,close grain, for which reason it is called the " Ebony of the Alps." The commcn Elderberry grows up like a rush, but the old wood of the tree becomes both hard and tough, takes a fine polish and is sometimes used as a substitute for Boxwood. I can testify from experience that a piece of Elderberry wood, some years of age, takes the edge off a knife about as soon as any kind of wood with which I am acquainted. The Gum Tree, to go a little further from home, is about the fastest- growing tree in the world, but it is, nevertheless, tough, strong, and durable, hence it is becoming one of the most popular of shipbuilding woods, and the same may be said of Teak, which is preferred to Oak for similar purposes. These are a few exceptions to Mr. Baines' statements that the wood "of quick-growing trees is light, spongy," and of little use. Mr. Baines has fallen into a common error in esti- mating the quality of timber by its rate of growth, which is but an indifferent guide either way perhaps, for much of the quality of timber depends upon the secretions formed by the tree and the mode of growth. The Scotch Fir in its native habitat and the Larch are Eot slower growers than some allied species, but their timber is far superior because of the resinous and other secretions which it contains, and probably the strength and durability of the quick-growing Gum tree is explained in the same way. These and other instances prove that estimating the quality of the timber of the Wellingtonia, or that of the wood of any other tree, by its comparative rate of growth alone,as Mr. Baines does.is fallaoiona. Had we not been well acquainted with the qualities of the Larch, Mr. Baines' remarks might have applied to it just as well as to the Wellingtonia, but in that case he would have been wrong, and there is no reason for supposing that his speculations regarding the Wellingtonia will turn ont to be better founded. C. BEECH TREES AND UNDERWOOD. In this, as in some other discussions that take place on kindred sub- jects, I think there is little doubt that those who hold opposite views are both, to a certain extent correct. I am led to this conclusion through actual acquaintance with places where the state of the undergrowth under Beeches is as different as it well could be, being entirely absent in some cases, and in others as fair a growth as could be met with under other kinds of deciduous trees. The discussion, hitherto, has gone little beyond assertion, on the one side, that in such and such places undergrowth did well with Beeches overhead, and, on the opposite, that nothing did or would grow under these trees. I am acquainted with places where there are portions of wood confined altogether to Beech, large trees, I have no doubt, 150 years old, with no more room between them than is necessary for the main. tenance of a healthy condition, and yet there is a fair under growth of Hollies, Rhododendrons, and Brambles beneath them, and I know other places where, even under single trees standing a considerable distance away from any others, no single living thing exists, not Bo much as a tuft of Grass, under them. In each case the cause is obvious ; in the first the ground is ocoupied by a number of trees that in their early days have stood safEciently close to prevent the development of the lower branches, leaving them with clean stems, and branches high up from tho ground. Where the trees stood singly they have had from the first room enough to assume their natural habit, wide.spreading branches hanging almost down to the ground, and in summer clothed with dense foliage, which excludes light to such an extent that nothing, not even weeds, could exist underneath, and it is not uncommon to find the same .thing occur under Horse Chestnuts and Turkey Oaks, where the branches of these have grown uninterfered with in a like manner. I have never seen anything to lead to the supposition that there is anything in the Beech more than in other deciduous trees which is injurious to undergrowth further than their dense shade, when fully developed, being such as to prevent other plants existing beneath them. As to the theory that the roots of the Beech exhaust the soil so much as to prevent anything living on the surface occupied by them, this is doubtless a mistake, as is evidenced by the Ash, the roots of which, as is well known, im- poverish the soil to a greater extent probably than any other tree, and yet beneath it many kinds of undergrowth can be seen doing fairly ; but the branches of the Ash are natni-ally much more erect than those of the Beech, and it is not nearly so densely clothed wiih foliage, consequently it admits more light to the surface under it, and to this cause I think it is evident that the difference is due. T. Baines. Referring to the discussion relating to shrubs under Beech trees, it appears that under certain oironmstances both sides may be light. It is self-evident that under a well-developed Bseoh tree or clump of trees, with the branches touching the ground all round and the roots interlaced and wattled, as is usual with the Beech, no shrub or vegetation of any sort could succeed ; but, if the Beeches be comparatively wide apart and on a deep soil, and if circumstances have caused them at some past period to lose their bottom branches, then, with trenching and other preparation, various evergreens will grow underneath them, such as Box, Hollies, Yews, and Rhododen- drons, if there be no lime in the soil. It was, I think, under such circumstances that the late Mr. Rose, with the consideration and concurrence of the Duke of Roxburgh, first began to plant Rhodo- dendrons under the Beeches at Floors, about 1857. Hundreds, if not thousands, were planted there in his time. Considerable, indeed, rank vegetation will be seen under Beeches in certain parts of the New Forest under similar cironmstances, that is, where the trees are old and the branches and foliage high overhead. But an instance of a contrary character may be seen at Powerscourt, Co. Wicklow, where there is a fine clump of Beeches, consisting of about two acres in extent, at a spot which need not be particularised. These Beeches, from intention or neglect, have not been thinned, and the conse- quence is they are ;a mass of bare and lofty trunks, like the stems of Palm trees, with no vegetation whatever underneath except a thin, scanty Grass. Where I now am, however, can be seen many Beeches of great age with abundance of vegetation underneath them, but the branches do not reach by many yards the surface of the ground, and the trees are wide enough apart to admit air and a sufficiency of light. I have lately cleared away some very old Beeches, root and branch, and I must say that the root part of the labour was of a most diificult character. Blasting was impossible, the roots being like wattled work, and I am quite sure that before anything could be planted over them it would first havs heen neces- sary to deposit a sufficient depth of soil all over the surface ; the digging of holes would have been quite out of the question within the radius of the branches. W. D. Dublin. The Canadian Poplar.— I am glad to see (p. 24) attention called to the merits of this tree, which I have long thought deserved to be more extensively planted than it is, especially in situations for which it is more especially adapted, viz., moist water margins and similar places. Even when planted in elevated or dry situations, it overtops everything else. I have in my " mind's eye" a bek of mixed trees that were planted about forty years ago, and the Cana- dian Poplar, as it is locally called, is nearly double the height of the other trees, of which a goodly proportion are Spruce Firs ; the Poplar far outstrips them all both in height and cubic contents of timber. It is, however, as I have said, in damp ground that its rapidity of growth and inclination to produce timber is more eepeci- Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 61 ally remarkable. In snch sitaations it is no nnnsnal thing for trees that have been planted thirty or forty years to measure double these figures in cubic contents of timber. The timber, too, is not without valae; but I do not fully indorse an old distich which speaks of it as outlasting that of the Oak under certain circumstances. There are, however, purposes for which it is very suitable, being almost incombustible. In Kent there has been of late years a great demand for it for the joists of Hop kilns, which, being exposed to the action of a hot charcoal or coke fire burning openly a few feet below, are necessarily much exposed to the risk of being burned down. Poplar joists are, therefore, much sought after. Boards of Poplar, as well as those of Willow, are also useful for insides of stone waggons or carts, where' a harder wood is not so good, being liable to splinter during rough usage. There are other purposes to which Poplar wood may be turned to good account, but it is unnecessary to mention them here; suffice it to say that the rapidity of its growth is a sufficient reason for recommending it to be planted extensively by all who wish for immediate effect. Like your correspondent, I am at a loss to know the difference between what in some places is called the Black Italian Poplar and the Canadian. Th3 latter I take to be identical with tho Ontario, which is the name most gene- rally given to the Canadian ; but, of course, neither are to be con. founded with the Lombardy, which, though ornamental, does not produce timber in anything like the proportion of the Ontario or Cana- dian. I have never seen the Black Italian aud Canadian together, and have only met with them hundreds of miles apart and at intervals of of many years. It is possible the two may be distinct. — A Retired Gardener. PLANT HAIRS— THEIR FORMS AND USES. BY PROF. ^Y. J. BEAL. Common in gardens is a plant called Ageratum mexicanum, the stems and framework of the leaves o£ which are slightly rough on account of large numbers of hair-like projections Fip;. 2. Pis. 1. Carved Hairs on Ageratum mexioannm.* along the entire surface. A small fragment placed under a moderate magnifying power reveals the structure of these beautiful and delicate objects as follows : The greater number of these consist of from five to twenty cells of different sizes and lengths placed end to end. Each hair or chain of cells is curved more or less, often into a complete ring, always towards the top of the plaat. The end cell is blunt or rounded at the tip. Scattered among these are occasionally seen sharp- pointed hairs which are straight and much more slender (fig. 3). Tree Boots and Dynamite. — Referring to the use of Dyna- mite for blowing up large tree roots (p. 53-t, Vol. XIV.), will Mr. Miller, of Clumber, be kind enough to describe the modus operandi, the charge of dynamite, how applied, and where procured ? applica. tiou having been made to the local ironmongers without success in obtaining the article. — W. L. C. Two Ornamental Weeping Trees. — I noticed lately, in the nurseries of Fisher, Holmes, & Co., Sheffield, a variety of the purple Weeping Beech, which appeared to me to be superior to other kinds. It is named Stevens' Purple Weeping Beeoh, aud was raised by llr. Stevens, of Coventry, not many years ago. The weeping habit of the tree is perfect, and reminds one of that of the American Weeping Willow. Another equally attractive subject is a distinctly weeping variety of the May Dake Cherry, which, when in flower or frait, must be a pretty tree either for a lawn or shrubbery. The plants of it which I saw, and which were leafless at the time, were in the form of tall standards, and the shoots drooped as perpendicularly as those of a Weeping Ash. As to the bearing capabilities of the tree I can. not speak from personal observation, but I was informed that the tree in no way differs from the common May Duke, except in regard to its weeping habit. — J. S. W. Eucalyptus amygdalina.— In speaking of the value of the Eucalyptus as a means of preventing malaria, it is stated in the " Daily News " of the 9th inst., that Prince Tronbetkoy, who has paid much attention to the subject, has come to the conclusion that E. amygdalina is a more useful species than E. globulus, as the leaves of the former contain six times as much volatile oil as the leaves of the latter, and the growth of the plant is equally rapid. The Prince states that, at his villa in the neighbourhood of Rome, B. amygdalina has resisted the effects of a temperature of 6' below zero. Can this be correct ? Is so great a degree of cold not unusual in the vicinity of Rome ? The term zero is sometimes erroneously applied to the freezing point, or 32° Fahr. ; can snch be the case in this instance ? If the Eucalvp^ua amygdalina can withstand a depression of tempera- ture amounting to 38°, of frost, the plant may with every con- fidence be extensively planted in this country. — P. Grieve, Culford. Lilliputian Wellingtonias.— One is not surprised at sports originating either from seed or branch from plants that have been long in cultivation, and perhaps at some period crossed with other varieties, but it ia not often one meets with distinct sports among forest trees such as may now be seen at the Handsworth Nurseries, near Sheflaeld, in the shape of not a dwarf, but absolutely a Lillipu. tian Wellingtonia, raised in the nursery from seed sent from Cali- fornia. This Lilliputian form consists of about a dozen trees, all propagated from the original seedling; they are some five years old, about the height of one's hand or little more, and as dense and close in habit as a small Retinospora, for which they might be mistaken until one stoops and examines them minutely, when the true charac- teristics of the Wellingtonia are observed, except that the roots are as close and prickly as those of a Juniper. I never saw such a sport before.— J. S. W. Fig. 3.— Slender hair of Ageratum mexicanum. Fig. i. — Glandular hairs having two rows of cells. Still less frequently may be seen larger and stouter projec- tions (fig. 4) in which there are two rows of cells overlapping each other. The lower cells are three or four times as long as they are broad, while towards the top the transverse diameter is the greater. The top of the projection is capped with a single hemispherical cell which is filled with a mucila- ginous substance. All the other cells are in a greater or less Fig. 6.— Hair of Ageratum. Fig. -Hair of Erigeron canadense. Fig. 7.— Stout ons- celled hair on Pa- Dicmn capillare. decree transparent. They are filled with a liquid containing granules, which, under a magnifying power of 2r^0 diameters, are often seen to move about in steady, flowing currents, borne of these glandular hairs (fig. 5) have but a single row ot cells for the main portion of their length. Perhaps still other forms mi°-ht be found which would be intermediate between some of t°hese, showing more exclusively that they were modi- fled forms of the same members. Erigeron canadense, a com- mon weed, is clothed all over its surface with slender, rapidly- tapering hairs composed of a single row of cells. Many species * The degree to which these flgores are magnified is not given because o£ considerable uncertainty in most cases. 62 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 18, 1S79. of Helianfchus are covered with similar hairs. The surface of Panioura capillare, old Witch Grass, is covered with slender, one-celled hairs, which are straight and quite stiff for their size. The surface of a common Physalis, or Ground Cherry, Fig. 8. Fig. 9. Fig 15. Hairs on surface of Physalis, Ground Cherry. abounds in slender hairs composed of from ten to fifteen cells placed in a single row. Some of these hairs terminate in a sharp point, but most of them have, at the end, a round cell like a knob, full of a sticky substance. Occasionally a hair produces one or more branches, which may likewise terminate Fig 11. — Hooked hair on fruit of Oircosa lutetiana. with a short point or a globular cell. The fruit of Circcea lutetiana, Enchanter's Nightshade, is covered with rather stout one-celled hairs which have a hook at the extremity. The stems of the common Butter Bean of our gardens have a few- Fig 12.— Haira on Malva rotundifolia. Fig. 13.— Sessile gland on same plant. scattering hairs of similar structure, though they are smaller and much more delicate. The surface of Malva rotundifolia. Common Mallow, is quite harsh to the touch, on account of numerous rather stout one-celled hairs, one to six of which project from a conical protuberance. These stout hairs spread . Fig. 14.— Hairs on petioles of Steironema ciliata. in every direction. Among the hairs are a few sessile glands capped with two quarters of spheres. The edges of the petioles of Steironema (Lysimachia) ciliata, a kind of Loose- strife, are fringed with hairs, some of which are short and simple, while others are much larger and irregularly branched like a stag's horn. Each hair, whether simple or branching, seems to consist of one cell, made of several pieces fitted together. The surface of Leersia oryzoides and L. virginica. Bice-cut Grass, is well supplied with short, stout, one-celled spines, all of which point downwards. Several species of Galium, Bed Straw, are also supplied with hooks of a similar character. In these the base of each hook is quite broad and the point quite short. The under sur- faces of the leaves and the young stems of Aralia Fig. 15. — Hairs on Leersia oryzoides. papyrifera, Chinese Kice-paper plant, are thickly covered with a woolly substance, which consists of immense numbers of one-celled stalks, each having at the tip six or more one-celled Fig. 16.— Hairs on Galium. arms or rays, which spread in every direction, like the spokes of a wheel. The common Mullein is covered in every part with a still more abundant supply of branching hairs. The main axis of the hairs has radiating arms at different heights Fig. 17.— Hair on Aralia papyrifera. . along its length. The glaucous nature of Cabbage leaves and Plums is due to numerous small cells on the surface. The mealy substance on Pig Weed, or Lamb's Quarter, consists in Fig. 18.— Branching hair on Shepherdia canadensis. numerous capitate hairs. Shepherdia canadensis is a rather rare shrub growing about the borders of lakes and seas. The young stems and buds, and portions of the leaves, are ren- dered red or rusty on account of the large number of scales, each of which is held to the plant by a short stem. Figs. 18 and 19 show two of these objects. In fig. 19 there are several rays attached side by side throughout most of their length, while in fig. 18 there are but few rays, which separate at once Jan. 18, 1879.J THE GARDEN. 63 from each other. Between these two extreme specimens are foand any number of intermediate forms. Much like the preceding are the star-shaped scales on the leaves of Deutzia seabra. There are many scales of a similar character found on most of our Ferns. De Candolle, in his " Vegetable Organography," says of the hairs of plants : " Some are very tender, others very rigid, and most are of all the intermediate degrees. With regard to Fig. 19.— SUeld-ehaped scale on Shoplierdia cana3ense. their direction, some are vertical to the surface from which they spring; some more or less incline forwards ; others more or less backwards ; some are perfectly straight, others hooked at the point ; there are several which are contracted, or which are interwoven with one another. As to their form, they are found as cylinders and very cylindrically-eloncated cones. They are sometimes seen in the form of reverse cones ; among those that are ramified they are found forked, with two, three, or a greater number of branches ; or starred at their apex, or divided at their base iito branches which seem as so Fig 20.— star-shaped hairs on Deutzia seabra. many distinct hairs re-united into bundles, having a common base." Sachs says, "The first indication of the formation of hairs occurs in the papillose protuberances of the epidermis of many petals, to which their velvety appearance is due. To the simplest forms belong also the root-hairs which grow from the epidermis of true roots or underground stems (^Pteris aquilina and Equisetum), they are thin-walled bag- like protuberances of the epidermis cells which lengthen by growth at the apex." The Petunia of our gardens is rendered sticky and unplea- sant to the touch on account of one-celled glands raised on a stem of from two to seven cells. Sorophularia nodosa, the Figwort of our rich bottom lands, has numerous glands on its surface. These are composed of one, two, three or more cells raised on a short stalk. Some of the larger glands are more ex- panded into flattened aphe/es, and are much like those found on our garden Verbenas. The gland of the garden Verbena consists of a large cluster of about thirty-five cells at the tip of a delicate stalk. The top of the gland is seen in fig. 26, and appears to have about thirty rays, and some central pieces of Figs. 21 and 22 —Glandular hairs of Petunia. Fig. 23.— Glands on Sorophu- laria nodosa. •Q-r Fig. 24— Glan- dular hair of Verbena. irregular shape. The lower surface of the gland, when it breaks off, shows two rings, one within the other. The inner is seen first, and on turning down the tube of the microscope the outer ring is seen. The gland is full of a purple substance. Fig. 25 — Lower side of gland. Fif . 31.— Top of gland. Fig. 27.— Side view of glands on Tomato. Fig. 2S.— Top view. Figs. 27 and 28 exhibit the four-celled glands of the Tomato plant. Each cell, as in many other cases, shows a nucleus and some of them one or more nucleoli. Besides the short hair and the gland of the Water Melon plant shown in figs. 30 and Fig. 29.— Hair and protuberance on Tomato. 31, there are large numbers of other very long-jointed hairs. Figs. 32 and 33 show two hairs of Phlox Drummondi. Here the glands appear to be composed of four or more cells. Some Fig. 30.— Short hair Fig. 31.— Glandular of plant of Water hair of Water Melon. Melon. Fig. 32 - Phlox mondi. Hair of Drum- Fig. 33.— Hair o Phlox Drum- mondi, of the glands of this plant consist of a single cell. Fig. 34, a, h, represent some of the smallest hairs on Martynia probos- cidia. Besides a few of these small hairs, the whole surface 64 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1S;9. of the plant, including tbe sepals and petals, is thickly covered with glandular hairs, as in figs. .3-5, 36,37, Si, 39. These glands, as do most glands of other plants to a greater or less extent, secrete a sticky substance, which is usually increased in quan- tity by irritation. From the end of the gland, when touched, may be drawn out a gossamer thread of some length. The pulling out of the thread exhausts the gland wholly or in part, and causes it to collapse or change its shape. Fig. 36 shows a gland from which such a thread has been drawn. The Pig. 34.— Hairs of Martynia piobos- cidia. Pig 35. Pig. 36. Pig. 37. Glands of Martynia. fruit of Tecoma radicans (Trumpet Creeper) has on its surface numerous sessile, cup-shaped glands of which Fig. 40 shows a vertical section. In damp weather, or when not exposed to very dry air, these cups are heaped full with a drop of glisten- ing liquid in each. Besides these, on the surface are numerous spots (fig. 41) in which numerous cells are clustered into a cir- cular form. From these we may find all gradations down to a two-celled stomate, as in fig. 42. On each margin of the petiole Fig. 33. Fig. 39. Tips of Glands of Martynia. of Viburnum Opulus (fig. 43) and Passifiora are some cup-like glands, which exude a sticky substance. Similar glands are found on the petioles of the Cherry and some Peaches. For our present purpose enough of these hairs and glands have been described and illustrated. A large majority of plants possess something of this nature in a greater or less degree. When fresh, and especially when not exposed to direct sun- light or air which is too dry, these glands are covered with a spherical glistening drop which is often several times the dia- meter of the gland. The uses of these hairs and glands we prob.ably now understand to some extent, but in other cases we Fig. 40.— Gland of Tecoma radicans, can only guess their office. The slender-pointed hairs may serve to some extent to ward off insects. These and the scale- like hairs may prevent the delicate surface from being scorched by the sun. This is not very probable, because most of the hairs on leaves are on the under side away from the direct rays of the sun. In the case of the common Mullein, the thick branch- ing hairs probably make the plant offensive to cattle and other animals. In a similar way other plants are protected from animals. AYhen packed within the bud scales during win- ter, the young leaves and flowers of many of our trees and shrubs are well protected by these soft hairs which envelope the tender parts like a mass of cotton or wool. After expan- sion of the buds these hairs generally drop off. When the hairs or spines are stout and point backward, as in Galium and Leersia, they serve well to hold up the weak plant as it rises among stouter objects. Fruit with hooked hairs is likely to be scattered by holding fast to animals. The bloom on a Cabbage leaf or Plum, and the thick hairs on plants prevent them from becoming wet on the surface. The shield and star- shaped scales on Shepherdia and Deutzia, and others may serve the same purposes as hairs. These delicate objects must pro- tect the plant from injury on account of sudden changes of the weather. The advantage of the sting of the Nettle to the plant is obviously a means of self-protection. The func- tion of glandular hairs in some cases is a great mystery. In the case of Martynia I found they caught immense numbers of small insects, and in some way seemed to suck out their sub- stance. Small insects are found to a greater or less extent caught and held fast by the glandular hairs on all or most of the plants which produce glands. In his " Insectivorous Plants " Darwin, by experimenting, concludes that the glands of Drosceras devour animal substances. The same conclusion is arrived at in the case of numerous other plants, as, for in- stance, some Saxifrages, Primulas, Pelargoniums and Pingui- Fig. 41. — Spot on fruit of same. Fi;;^. -12. — Stoma, on fruit of same. culas. The glands of the Trumpet Creeper are active, even till the fruit is of full size are quite near maturity. They are much visited by flies, wasps, and especially by ants to such an extent that the plant is often considered a nuisance when placed near the house. The glands on the leaves of Cherry trees and Viburnum are also much frequented by insects. The base of the leaves of the Sunflower, Locust, Pteris aquilina, and nu- merous other plants are freely visited by insects ; but of what benefit it can be to Tecoma, Pteris, Helianthus, and the Cherry to be thus visited is beyond my certain knowledge. The glands Fij?. 13. — Glands on petiole of Snowball tree. of Tomatoes, Tobacco, Petunia, and many other plants secrete a substance which is offensive to most insects and other animals which might otherwise devour the plants. Mr. Darwin has also shown that some of these plants do certainly absorb and appropriate gaseous and liquid bodies. Many ingenious expe- riments were made on plants of several different Orders, show- ing that " they detect with almost unerring certainty the pre- sence of nitrogen." Plants by their glands were fed with Green Peas, raw meat, a decoction of Grass leaves. These substances " are acted on in exactly the same manner as by gas- tric juice." Why may not these glands also draw nourish- ment from the particles of dust which fall on them from the air, or from the particles of soil which in many cases accumu- late to such an extent as to completely cover some portions of the plant ? As root hairs are active in absorbing materials from the soil including something from solid substances, why should not these active glands absorb materials from the dust and fragments of soil ? The free presence of the air and light may also assist in this supposed action. This covering of the plant by the particles of soil held by the hairs and glands may also save the plant from destruction by animals. Of one thing I am certain that these delicate objects are interesting to study. Situated as they are in immense numbers and in such great variety on the surface of so many plants, they are easily ob- tained and easily prepared for examination. They are excel- lent objects for a beginner in the use of the compound micro- scope ; and for protracted and careful experiments, they are worthy the skill of the most accomplished scientist. In them we may spend weeks to advantage in observing the develop- Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 65 meat of cells, the nucleus and nucleoli, and the gyration of the sap. In form and colour they are exquisitely beautiful, while in variety they are inexhaustible. — '•' American Naturalist." GARDEN DESTROYERS. THE PEA WEEVIL. (brvchus pisi.) It is somewhat a matter of doubt whether this insect is really a native of this country, as it is frequently imported in Peas and Beans, but it is not a question of much importance to the horticulturist, as it has been thoroughly naturalised with us for many years, and its destructive habits are unquestioned. All gardeners have been troubled with what are commonly called worm-eaten Peas. These seeds have suffered from the attacks of the grubs of this insect, or a very nearly-allied species of the same genus (Bruchus granarius) the Grain Bruchus. At times the amount of damage caused by these grubs is very great, nearly every Pea or Bean containing one. Peas and Beans of all kinds, and the seeds of various legu- minous plants, are liable to the attacks of these weevils. As the grubs generally avoid the vital part of the seed, those that are thus eaten will frequently germinate, but the plants from them are sickly and almost worthless. The remedies which can be used to destroy these insects are very few. The weevils are so small that it would be useless to search for them, and, as the grubs pass the whole of their lives within the Peas, almost any means of destroying them which could be devised would also injure the Peas. If a crop is so badly attacked as to be useless, it should at once be ^S^j> burned. Mr. Curtis suggests that immersing the J^^^J^ Peas or Bsans in oil would probably destroy the insects without injuring the vitality of the seeds. Others recommend submitting the seeds to a tem- perature of 150^ Fahr. in an oven, which would probably kill the grubs without preventing the seeds from germinating, or to the action of boiling ^Ev, water for one minute immediately they are ga- ^^p- ■ thered, as the grubs are then just below the skin "^"^ °^ of the seeds, and would be destroyed without injur- ing the Peas. There are fortunately several small parasitic in- sects belonging to the ichneumonidaj which deposit their eggs in the grubs, carefully hidden as they are in the Peas. The little grubs from these eggs soon kill the weevil grubs, and in this way naturally assist in keeping down the numbers of these pests. The beetles are usually found in the spring and summer on various flowers ; in February they may be found on the blos- soms of Furze, in June on White Thorn, in July and August onSpirceaand Ehubarb. When the young Pea and Bean podB begin to grow the females lay their eggs on the pods opposite the seeds, and the grubs, when hatched, eat their way at once through the pods and into the seeds, which continue to grow, and, even if examined, do not show any external signs of injury, but on opening them a small grub will be found inside each, which feeds on the interior of the seed until little or none remains ; it then assumes the chrysalis state, and in due course is transformed into the perfect insect, which, in the case of the Pea weevil leaves the seeds when they are fit to gather. The grubs of the Grain Bruchus generally remain in the seeds during the winter, the perfect insects making their appearance in the spring ; in fine, warm weather, however, the transformations are more rapid, and the beetles sometimes emerge in the autumn. The grub before changing into a chrysalis forms a passage to the outer skin of the Pea, and probably gnaws that partially through in a circular ring, so that when the beetle, in its endeavours to escape, pushes against it it easily gives way. The seed should always be examined before sowing, when a spot may be found on each afiected seed, which is rather less opaque and of a different colour to the rest of the skin ; under this spot is the passage by which the beetle comes forth. Often the beetles are found dead in Peas and Beans which have been kept to- gether in large quantities. This is probably the result of the insects being unable to leave the Peas on account of the door by which they would make their exit being in contact with other Peas, and so preventing the insects from escaping, or by the the skin of the Peas becoming so dry and hard that the beetle could not force its way out. The Pea weevil is about 2-10tb3 of an inch in length, and is black in colour, thickly covered with bright, brown, short hairs above and greyish ones below. The head is small and drooping ; the antenuEe have eleven joints, the tour nearest the base being yellowish ; the thorax is much wider behind than in front ; the wing cases are con- siderably wider than the thorax, giving the insect a very broad and stout appearance. Each are marked with ten longitudinal lines or stria3, and have a somewhat mottled appearance, caused by various pale dots and patches. The body is not entirely covered by the wing cases, but projects beyond in a somewhat sloping, triangular, terminal joint. The legs are strong, the hinder pair being considerably longer than the others. The Grain Bruchus is rather smaller the the Pea weevil ; it is very similar in form but not quite so thickly covered with hairs. There are several slight differences between the two species, but it is needless here to dilate on them. The grubs of both species are whitish in colour, and rather more than l-8th of an inch in length. Their heads are furnished with a strong pair of jaws. Their bodies consist of thirteen joints, and are fat and fleshy and rather curved. The chrysalides are whitish, the limbs of the future beetle being visible through the thin cover- ing skin. S. G. S. Destruction of Barn Owls. — While agreeing in the main with Mr. Harpur Crewe'a remarks on this sabject (p. 24) there is one point relativa to the charge which he brings against sportsmen on which I must enter a protest. What may be done around Tring, one cannot say, bat, as an old sportsman, and one who has shot over various parts of the country during more than a quarter of a century, I can moat positively assert that I do not remember a single instance of a barn owl having been shot by anyone claiming to be a true sportsman. Besides, the barn owl does not [make its appearance until dnsk, long before which sportsmen will have returned home. Gamekeepers will sometimes kill owla, as they destroy very young rabbits, but it is a practice which, ought to be sternly objected to by their employers. I doubt very much, however, whether (as Mr. Harpur Crewe thinks) farmers do so. They, at least, are well aware of their usefulness in destroying vermin, and it ia common in many parts to have a hole cut in the gables of barna and other outbuildings, in order to entice the owls to enter. — C, F., Merlicood, THE LATE FROST AND ITS EFFECTS. Like many others, I was extremely pleased to find, when the first thaw that came on Christmas Day had released many shrubs from their frost-bound condition, and freed them from their weight of snow, how little apparent damage had been done. A recurrence of frost, with nipping easterly wind, has now caused an amount of injury that has not been equalled for many years. Here, on the north-east coast, the thermometer never descended below 17", thus marking only 15' of frost at the most, and, since the new year, only 7° of frost have been registered ; bat the violent and dry east wind haa withered up many things that withstood the first frost. The greatest losses to deplore are the large bashes of Veronicas of the Hybrid Anderson! section, but Bine Gem Veronica, though much crippled, will recover ; this has always been very hardy here ; EsciiUonias are sadly browned, E. macrantha and rabra being little injured; E. mon. tevidensia, Ingrami, and pterocladon, are killed to the ground; Dracaena Veitchi ia but little hurt, and Phormiam tenax has escaped with a browning ; Coronilla glauca seems killed, and the broad-leaved Myrtle much injured, but the small -leaved variety is not touched. A few shrubs have proved themselves hardy, even under these trying circumatances ; Pittosporum Tobira, Choisya ternata, Raphiolepis ovata, Desfontainea apinoaa, and Aralia Sieboldi, are quitie uninjured Berberidopsia corallina and Viburnum Awaf urki have lost moat ot their leaves, but do not eeem aeriously injured ; Bambusa faloata and Chamaerops Fortnnei testify to the severity ot Chinese winters by aeeming quite regardless of the cold they have lately endured ; the GaUfornian shrubs, Fremontia oalifornica, and Ceanothua azureua look pinched, but will recover; Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles seems un. hurt, but C. thyrsiflorus is dead ; Elasagnus pungens var., and the hand- somest silver variegated form of the Japanese Euonymus, are nu. injured, while the golden variety and the green type have escaped harm ; Arando conspicua is most remarkable for its endurance of bitter 66 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 18:9, east wind ; its leaves are still green and fresh, while Pampas Grass and Tritomas are withered np or reduced to palp. E. H. W. St. Nicholas Rouse, Sca'bro', There is too much reason to fear that the latest visitation of frost has been productive of much mi-:chief in gardens, and espeoially in the case of vegetables, as for several days bitter easterly winds prevailed, which seemed literally to scorch and dry np the leaves and young shoots of all plants to such an extent as to make many look as if dead. The frost before the end of the year, though intense, was accompanied by a quiet state of the atmosphere, and the snowfall certainly served, to some extent, to protect vegetation. The second visitation following so soon after the first one, with the intervention of but a few days of thaw and excessive rainfall, literally deluging the soil, found everything far more amenable to its inSueuce than before. During its prevalence it has puzzled people to keep it at bay to protect houses, to keep it from Potato and other tender roots, to protect half-hardy shrubs and plants, and, not least, to find work for all hands to do. In many respects the frost has been productive of heavy losseii, in other respects it may be productive of greater gain, so that the balance may be, after all, in our favour. A. D. Effects of the Late Frost.— Mr. Gumbleton's letter (p. 27) is very interesting but also very alarming. If he has already lost so much in his highly favoured locality, what are we to expect ? I hope others will give us their experience iu the same direction, but I would suggest that it is much too early yet to reckon np gains and losses. Three months more at least must pass before we can speak with any certainty. Many plants, now apparently dead, may be all right at the root and may shoot up again vigorously ; on the other hand, many plants that now look unhurt may yet have had their con. stitutions so weakened as to be unable to bear up against a cold spring. My own opinion is that very little damage was done by the Dacember frosts. The air was dry and there was little or no wind, but I fear this January frost will be very fatal ; it came in after a very rapid thaw, and the wind has been strong and very cold. May I suggest to any of year correspondents who send aooounts of their gains or losses that they give their addresses, if not their names. Such lists are of very little use unless we know something of the situation of the gardens in which the plants grow. — He.nry R. Ellacombe, Baton Vicarage. OUR NATIONAL COOKERY. It is allowed on all hands that there is urgent need of reform in the cookery of England. It has been emphatically said that while the Powers above have provided us with the best materials, our cooks come mostly from a lower region. This does not, of course, apply to the mansions of the rich ; there, with every expensive appliance, and a staff of thoroughly well-trained servants at high wages, it would be hard, indeed, if every meal were not a success. But all Englishmen do not inhabit palaces of plenty and luxury ; many families must, per. force, content themselves with the imperfect performances of a " plain cook," while lower down in the social scale the ill-arranged dinners are prepared and served by an untidy" maid-of-all-work." What can these uneducated young women know of the true principles of cookery ? They have had, in all probability, no opportunity of acquiring them ; and yet the health and comfort of a family depend, in a great measure, on their unassisted endeavours. A " plain cook," questioned by an anxious mistress as to her capabilities, mostly replies, " I do not understand French dishes (?), but I can roast, boil, and fry." The roasting consists of putting a piece of meat into the oven, and bast, ing it by fits and starts, whan she is not otherwise occupied. The boiling is accomplished by immersing the luckless joint in a great deal of water, three times too much, and keeping it boiling at a galloping rate until it is served— ragged and unpalatable. " How, then, would you fry— a sole, for instance ?" Nothing daunted, the cook replies, " Having wiped it, I put a little fat into the pan, and fry it brown." How pitiable ! These evils have been endured in patience too long ; that a reform is greatly to be desired has been felt by all classes for some time. Hence the establishment in provincial towns (to say nothing of the excellent cookery lectures at South Kensington and elsewhere) of schools of cookery. However, a long time must elapse before a knowledge of the subject can be universal ; at present, it is confined to a privileged few, who are able and willing to avail themselves of these advantages. It is, nevertheless, cheering to think that the matter has bean taken up. It is said that the night is the darkest just before the dawa. The night of culinary ignorance was dark enough, Heaven knoivs, before any attempt was made to shad a ray of light on the gloom. It was very pleasant to ma, soma months ago, to hear a pupil of the South Kensington School lecture on a dish which she prepared before the audience. She was a pretty girl of twenty, very appro- priately dressed, with a bewitching mob cap, trimmed with cherry ribbons, and a muslin aproa over a neat cotton dress. " I now proosed," said she, suiting the action to the word, " to gratinate my Cauliflower." When she had finished, the young laly lower down prepared a dish of" Garottes a la mittre d'hotel " (it was a vegetable day), detailing the process as she went on. This continued until the class, which consisted of six, had taken up their parables in like manner. They were listened to with great attention by the audience, which consisted partly of relations and friends, though there were many outsiders like myself. If the youthful lecturers appeared to be at fault, a real cook in the background was ready to set them right. These girls evidently belonged to an educated class, and had, no doubt, passed through the regular course which constitutes a young lady's training. They probably understood "the use of the globas," played the piano, perhaps the violin, and had acquired a smattering of one or two European languages. But that part of their training which I witnessed was by no means the least important. It was that which was to fit them to become good wives, active heads of households, patient trainers of ignorant, but, perhaps, willing servants; it was that part which, carried out fully, would teach them to make the most of a narrow income, and to diffuse plenty and comfort around them — the blessings of a well-appointed home. A writer of ancient days, describing a pattern matron, says: "She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eatath not the bread of idleness." If we turn to the condition of the labouring classes, their case is sad indeed, always excepting those families where the wife has baeu a well-trained cojk in tha service of affluent persons. Such a one will probably make tha best of everything. Her hus- band will not forsake his clean, bright hearth for the noisy public house, nor her children be found perpetually on the dispensary doctor's hands for maladies brought on mainly by ill.cooked, distaste- ful food. With others the case is widely different. How often have I seen cottages, with gardens full of excellent vegetables, where tha bread-winner was in the receipt of good weekly wages I but I knew that, through tha incompatence of the wife, all was discomfort and bad management. " Much food is iu the tillage of the poor, but there is that is destroyed for the lack of judgment," was written by one who had thought deeply on the subject many centuries ago, and it is quite true now. Let [the educated among us take the matter in hand, it is well worthy their attention. Lat them not disdain the humble duty of alleviating want by taaohing thrifty, careful habits to their poorer neighbours. L3t tha wives and daughters of our professional and mercantile men spend some of their leisure in acquiring the princi. pies of good cooking, we shall soon sea a batter class of cooks rising up among us, for the spread of culinary knowledge among mistresses will soon do away with idle and incompetent servants. Oaa feature of the times is the appaaranoe of a number of cookery books in a cheap form. My attention has recently baen called to three written by Miss Corson, the superintendent of the New York Cookery School. The first is called, " A Cooking Manual, or Practical Directions for Economical E?ery Diy Ciokery." With this cama two pamphlets, entitled "23. Cant Dinners for Families of Six," and " 15. Cant Dinners for Working Man's Families." The first. named of these publications "is intended," says the authoress, "for the use of those housekaepars and cooks who wish to knosr how to make the most wholeioma and palatable dishes at the least possible oast." " Iu cooking," con- tinues Miss Corson, " this faat should ba remembared above all others — a goad coik never wastes; it is her pride to make the most of everything in ths shape of food entrusted to har care, and her plea- sura to serve it in the most appatising form." Her chapters oa " Salads," " Vegetables," "Cheip Dishes without Meat," are truly excellent. What would the plain cook referred to in the beginning of this paper say to a " Mushroom pudding," or a " Carrot stew ?" Sha would probably consider her mistress had taken leave of her wits, were she to order a vegetable soup without meat; yet we know that this dish often appears on the tables of the wealthy in Franca I The chapters on " Cookery for Invalids," and on " Bread" contain much in- formation. The directions for marketing at the beginning of the book will be very acoaptable to young and inexperienced housekeepers, indeed, older ones may not dislain to take a lesson. The subject of marketing recalls to my mind tha heroine of one of Charlas Kingsley'a novels who (tha undowered daughter of an earl) marries a struggling literary man. Sha takes high views of a wife's duties and accord- ingly shortly after her marriage goes to market with her maid to purchase provisions for her small household. Her ideas on the sub. jeotof what was necessary were paouliar, as sha came back with a woodcock and a bead of Celery. The 25 cent dinners are intanded for tha families of artisans, and I thought tha preface, which contains an aac^unt of the nutritive qualities of different kinds of fool, ve."y good indeed. There are ex- cellent recipes iu every ohapier for iuaxpansive but highly palat- Jan. 18, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 67 able dishes. That which treats of " Sanday dinners," oontaina di. reotions for more costly dainties, such as " roast fowl," " k la mode beef," " rabbit carry," &o., these would disgrace no table. One thing struck me — the fowl was to serve for two dinners — the breast and thighs were to furnish the Sunday's meal, the drumsticks, wings, and neck, that of the following day. Let na hope that something else had been provided for the children, or that the dinner had been preceded by a very substantial lunch! When you come to the " 15. cent dinners," you must not expect many luxuries, |bnt there are daily bilU of fare for a week. Being ignorant of the prices of different foods in American cities, and also of the habits of working people there, I End it impossible to judge fairly of these monus, A few will suffice to quote. Monday — breakfast, boiled Rice with scalded milk ; dinner, corned beef and Cabbage ; supper. Peas boiled in stock. Friday — breakfast, broth and bread ; dinner, mutton and Turnips; supper. Barley boiled in broth. Miss Corson rather discourages the use of tea and coffee on economical grounds, and hopes to see the time arrive when cur work, ing people will use broths and soups as substitutes for these stimu- lants. It is so difficult to alter the habits of a people, that I think it will belong before this change takes place. She strongly advocates the use of Maocaroni, which appears, from her book, to be sold at about the same price in A-nerica as it is here. Oar working people are entire strangers to this valuable food, partly on account of its price, and partly because they are ignorant of any of the numerous ways of cooking it. I do not know what she means by saving that yellow maocaroni is better in quality than the white, as we know that the yellow colour is only given to it by saffron. These little manuals are sure to find favour with the educated from the scientific manner i n which they treat the subieot, and we hope that in this manner they will reach the class for which they are more particnarly intended. GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. stoves. Climbers. — -Where plants for draping the rafters, covering an end wall, or for using in any similar way, are employed in the stove, they should now be gone over and cut back sufficiently according to their kinds. This work is sometimes delayed until later on when consider- able growth has been made, which is so far a mistake that the growth made has to be out away, and is so mnch wasted from the energies of the plants, which naturally break weaker afterwards. In carry, ing oat this operation it is necessary to proceed with discrimination, .using the knife the most freely on the strongest-growing subjects, that soon extend so f'lr as to injuriously encroach upon other plants. Strong-growing climbers, such as Ipomoea Leari, llexacentris mysor- ensis, Bougainvilleas, Dipladenias, Aristolochiaa, Thambergias, Clero- dendrons, and the large-leaved Passifloras, may be freely out back proportionate to the size of the plants and the space they are intended to occupy, remembering that in all cases, the further they can be allowed to extend, the more profusely they may be expected to bloom. Medium-growing climbers, such as Combretum purpuream, Ipomcea Horsfallice, Jasminum Diichpsse d'Orleans, the double and single varieties of J. Sambac and Manettiaa, should not be so hard cut in. Stecliaiiotia floribunda ought not to be out back to any con. sidf Table extent at this time of the year. What pruning is necessary s' onld be d^'erred until after the flowering, when all the shoots may I -e shorten -d in accordance with the space required to be occupied. f apposing the gro>vth to have been well ripened during the preceding f ntumn, reductioa of the shoots now will proportionately limit the i biliti:;s ct the plants to bloom. Hoyas.— The twining species of these should only have their flhoots shortened either at this or any other time of the year, so far as is necessary to keep them within bounds ; for flowering, as is their natural habit, daring a series of years from the same spurs, what. «ver reducing of the shoots is carried out in their case also limits the blooming. In catting back all the above plants it is necessary •for the operator to pay some attention to carrying the work out in a way that will admit of the production of young growth over the whole surface which is retained of the plants individually. This can only be effected by shortening the shoots to different lengths in place of, as is often done, catting the whole back to something near a •uniform length, the result of which is that nearly all the young growth ■made is from the point where they were shortened back to, leaving the lower portion of the branches devoid of fresh shoots, and, conse- quently, aaable to bear flowers, of which it is desirable that an equal production over the whole sarface of the plants shonid exist. Fine-foliaged Climbers.— Climbers that are grown for the beauty of their leaves, such as the different species of Cissus, Pothos argyrea, Echites nutans, &o., should be freely cut back, so that the greater portion of the surface they occupy during the summer may be covered with new foliage. It may be well here to remark that the time of cutting in gives the best opporturjity during the whole year for giving a thorough cleaning from insects. With these plants it is necessary now to do all that is possible to eradicate these pests, as from the position occupied when growth has fairly commenced there is less opportunity of dealing with them than in the case of non-climbers. Hard-wooded, Fine-leaved Plants.— There is no greater mistake committed with these subjects than allowing them to get so tall as to be deficient of healthy foliage at the bottom, or in any way to exhibit old leaves wherein is an absence of the fresh, healthy vigour and colour for which they are grown. We often see plants like Dracaenas, Aralias, Brexiachrysophylla, Crotons, Cupanias, Fious, Terminaliaelegans, Theophrastas, Sph^rogynes.and Cyanophyllums, in anything but a condition that makes them pleasing objects, for want of heading down when they require it. Now is the best time for this operation, in all cases allowing the soil to become somewhat dry before removing the head. With strong.growing species, such as Sphcero- gynes, Theophrasta?, and Cyanophyllums, that possess a limited number of eyes, it will be found much better to leave from 2 ft. to 3 ft. of stem, cutting the eyes out from the top downwards to within 6 in. of the collar ; this will force their breaking near the base, which will insure a handsom.) stem, well furniahed with leaves down to the bottom, and, by leaving a considerable portion oE the stem in this way, until the young shoot which is to form the future specimen has made some progress, it will materially assist the young growth, and avoid the chances of the out. down plant dying, which sometimes results from the whole of the head and stem being removed at once. Plants treated as described should always be placed immediately where there is enough warmth to induce their breaking without delay, as, if kept where so cool as to retard growth, the inevitable loss of roots consequent npon heading down is certain to be further increased ; to this frequently may be traced the death of the plants. The headed-down specimens ought to be syringed daily, taking care not to wet the soil too much until they have commenced to grow freely. Gloriosas. — Where these plants are grown, either as trained specimens or pendent from a rafter, place the bulbs at once where they will start into growth, as they take a good time from the young shoots beginning to push to their arriving at a blooming con- dition, and it sometimes happens that when the growths are not made sufficiently early, it gets far towards autumn before they flower. It is better not to give them too mach pot room in tha first instance. I have found them auooeed more satisfactorily by potti'.ig a second time than at once placing the roots in the full body of soil they are to occupy. Fern House. Structures devoted to the cultivation ( f Ferns have usually at the present day more or less space so arranged that the plants can be turned out, giving them so far as possible a natural appearance. In the selection ot the plants to be thus treated, it is necessary to keep in view the suitability of the kinds chosen for the purpose, both as to their ability to bear shade proportionate to the position each in. dividual plant will occupy by being overhung by others, and also to the size they will ultimately attain. It frequently happens that a want of consideration in this last matter much interferes with their well-being afterwards by some encroaching upon others, which either necessitates disturbance by removal, or a portion are so weakened by overcrowding that they ultimately die. The greatest mistake where Ferns are so giowii is the introluction of too many large tree species that inevitably smother most of the weaker small growers and in a few years have not near enough space for their own development. When many specimens of large habit of growth are brought to. gether in a comparatively small house, it not only detracts much from the individual beauty of each but destroys the effect of the whole; unless where the house is large and roomy in every way, it is better to have the tree kinds in either tubs or pots, plunged up to the rims in the beds where the smaller growers are planted out, by which means they can be kept within the prescribed limits, at the same time allowing them to develope sufficiently to exhibit their true cha. raoter. Another advantage arising from their being grown in this way is that the position of any particular plant, or the whole of the large ones thus grown in tubs, &o., if need be, can be altered as oc. casion requires, either with a view to afford more room where it may be wanted, or to give a different appearance to the hoase where a continuous position held by the plants is somewhat monotonous. The present time, when most Ferns are at rest, or nearly so, is the most 68 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 18, 1879. suitable for any alteration required in the arrangement, as the smaller occupants which are planted out, some of which there would be a a necessity for moving can be taken up and replanted where wanted without seriously interfering with their growth, which removal later on, when their young fronds have begun to push, is certain to do. Insects. — Here also advantage should ba taken of their dormant state to eradicate the insects most usually troublesome— brown scale and thrips. Scale is not easy to cope with on Tree Ferns that are planted out, and unless an attempt is made now when the insects are not increasing fast, and the fronds are in a hard mature state, which enables them to bear a much stronger dressing of insecticide than during the growing season, a deal of labour will need to be expended npon them in the summer. The eggs of thrips can, in like manner, at this time, be more eSectually dealt with. The best way to pro- ceed, that I have been able to find, is to dip the fronds singly in a strong solution of ingeoticklo, allowing it to dry on, repeating the operation three or four times before the young growth commences to move ; any old fronds that show signs of decay may ba cut off, and in this way whatever insects are on them will ba got rid of. Orchids. Cypripediatns. — "Many of the spring-blooming kinds, especially the varieties of C. barbatnm, will shortly begin to throw up their flowers. They are much less susceptible of injury from water, even whilst the flowers are partially enclosed in the centre leaves of the crown, than most Orchids, yet I have seen them rot where, by watering overhead, moisture has been held for some time in the crowns of the plants, consequently, in giving it now it is well to be careful that none lodges in this way. Trichopilia suavis. — This sivaet.scented, early-flowering species will also shortly begin to push up its bloom spikes; appear, ing, as they do, at the under side of the pseudo-bulbs, it requires care in giving water to keep it from loiging about the flower buds. In the first stages of their development I have found them very impatient of moisture in this way, and it is best now to apply water with a spouted can, by which moans, if the plants are potted as they oufht to bo, higher than the majority of OrchiJs, moisture can bo got to the roots without endangering the bloom. Dendrobium nobile and D. Wardianum. — Where a suc- ceasion of the first named are gradually brought on to flower, a few more should now be put where they will receive additional warmth and a moderately moist atmosphere, giving little water at the root for a time. D. Wardianum that matured growth early in the season will now be showing flower buds prominently, and may have the blooming accalerated more or less iu accordance with the time they are required in flower. As the flowers last long, wheraa suocessional supply is held in more estimation than a great display all together, it is well not to have too many in bloom at once, oousequently, their introduction into warmer quarters must be regulated by this. Flower Garden. Auriculas. — With frosts and thaws alternating, it is difficult to know how to treat Auriculas just now. One thing, however, we do know, and that is that it is very dangerous to give any water to the roots. The occurrence of a few mild days showed us that many pots wanted water, and the temptation to give it was great, but, had we done so, the plants would certainly have been injured by the severe frosts which followed in a day or two afterwards. As the tempera- ture seemed likely to fall to a very low point, we had some litter placed against the outsides of the frames, and a mat put over the glass at nights. It is scarcely necessary to remove the mats during the day time if the frost continue and the pots inside are crusted with it. Carnations and Picoteea. — These seem to delight in severe frost ; still, when the thermometer threatens to fall down to zero, mats may be thrown over the glass. It is needless to mention that dryness at the roots is conducive to healthiness. Even if the day temperature should not reach so high as the freezing point, it air can be admitted it is as well to do so, as continued closeness of the atmosphere causes spot to appear on the leaves, and in this respect the plants are more liable to injury than Auriculas. Soil for potting ought to be prepared ; good turfy, clayey loam answers best. The decayed turf should be torn to pieces by the hand, carefully inspect- ing it at the same time with the view of destroying all the wire, worms which it may contain. To four parts of loam add one of leaf, mould, one of rotten stable manure, and one of sharp sand, mixing all together by turning the mass over twice ; it ought then to be stored in a dry place until it is required. Dahlias and Hollyhocks. — While the weathar is unfavourable for other work, stakes may ba prepared. Those made of good Deal, and painted grean, last the longest, and look the neatest. The part underground, and a little above it, should be dressed with a com- position of equal parts of tar and pitch laid on boiling hot ; even char, ring the part of the stick that is to go underground tends to prevent decay. Panaies and Pinks. — Those in bads will require attention during alternations of frost and thaw, as it is at suoh times that they get injured. Dress the surface of the beds with dry manure from a spent Mushroom bad, which is, about the best material that conld ba used for preventing injury during changeable weather. Phloxes in Pots. — Plants that were raised from cuttings, and that flowered last autumn, should now ba placed, if possible, in a greenhouse temperature. Growth will thns be made earlier, and the cuttings can ba taken off, perhaps, a month sooner than it would be possible to do if the plants were protected only by a cold frame. It is rather too early as yet to repot, bat that operation might, never- theless, be performed now, if it be likely that the pressure of other work would prevent its being done a month or six weeks later. The potting material recommended for Carnations answers well for Phloxes. — J. Douglas. Hardy Fruit. In this depax'tment, the ground being still frost-bcund, work has come quite to a standstill, at least, so far as tha making, renovation, and top-dressing of borders are concerned. It is also too cold for any parson to be expected to nail or prune, and no thoughtf il parson would desire any one to do such work in such inclement weather. There are sundry little operations which may, however, be done now with advantage, such as labelling any trees requiring attention in that way, cutting shreds for nailing, or preparing matting for tying, as the case may be ; cutting and pointing stakes for newly-planted trees, preparing tha necessary spring protactiou for wall tree', and repairing netting. The fruit-room, too, may be over-hauled, and all decayed Apples and Pears removed. Some of the latter that are specked are apt to'beooma mouldy ; these should ba wiped with a soft, dry cloth. Easter Baurre is very subject to this mould, and, to keep it sound, it requires to ba thus wiped several times in the course of the winter. Josephine de Mallnas, Ne Plus lleurls, and Easter Beurre, are our best Pears at this date. — W. W. Vegetable Forcing. The severity of tha weather makes this department of the first importance, for already large quantities of Broccoli are hopelessly damaged. Lattuees, Spinach, autumn-sown Onions, and all the Brassica tribe, look wretched, and the most must now be made of the means at command to fill tha gap which is likely to o?cur in tho supply. A hot-bed, consisting of three parts leaves and one of stable litter, should be made up for Potatoes, on which place frames, and plant the Potatoes at once in about 9 in. of light soil. Fenn's Eirly Market (round) and the old Ashleat Kidney are the best kinds for tho purpose. A similar frame should be put in requisition for Early Horn Carrot, and another for Lettuces, Radish, and Caulifiower. The demand for Asparagus is sara to ba great, and fresh bitches should be introduoad to the forcing pit every fortnight. The crowns now start readily into growth, and a great heat is therefore unneces- sary. A bad of leaves only is the most desirable forcing medium, as stable litter taints the Asparagus, especially when that material is used without due preparation, and the same may ba said in reference to Rhubarb. It the crowns of these ba now covered with Rbnbarb pots, old tubs, or barrels, and a bed of leaves made over them, there would Jbe an abundant supply till it could be had from the open air. Saakale is best lifted and forced in any dark, warm situa- tion ; a Mushroom house suits it well. It should be kept perfeotly dark and not too warm or it grows thin or weakly. It may also be forced the same as Rhubarb in the open ground, but preference should be given to the system of lifting it. To keep up the supply regularly, fresh roots should ba put in fortnightly. French Beans are always prized, and where there is proper accommodation for growing them they can be produced in abundance without much trouble. They should be grown in light houses or pits where a temperature of 65" can be maintained. They are best in S-in. pots, which should have free drainage, and the soil should be light but made firm in the pots. A moist atmosphere is indispensable both for the well-being of the plants and to keep red spider at bay. Sow, to keep up the demand, at intervals of ten days or a fortnight. Syon House and Osborn aro the two best kinds for pot culture ; stick them with Birch twigs before they begin to flower, and never let the Beans stay on the plants an hour after they are fit to gather. Tomatoas (autumu-sown plants or cuttings) will now begin to grow freely and will require a warm, dry temperature of from 60' to 65° to set tha fruit, after which, they may be fraaly snoplied with tepid guano water, of which, it well Jan. 18, 1870.] THE GAKDEN. 69 drained, they will take a liberal allowance. Pot culture ani winter forcing of Tomatoes are not nearly so much practised as they ought to be. By many, no forced vegetables are more valued, and from the pre. sent time onwards aremore easily produced. Lettuces andEndivennder protection must be kept as dry aa possible, or they will soon decay ; Chicory and Dandelion help to eke out the Lettuces and Endive, and a few roots of these should be placed for forcing in the Mushroom house every two or three weeks. Mustard and Cress should be sown weekly.— W. W. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Conservatory Wall Plants. — Can you recommend me an ever- green floweiing creeper to train over the trellised wall of a conservatory attached to the house and leading from the drawing room ? The aspect is easterly. — F. B. T. [Try Lapagerias red and white, Camellias, and Tac. sonia esoniensis- — S.] Salting Walks. — What is the right way of using salt to cure weeds on walks, which all last summer were most troublesome, though fre- quently weeded ? — T. P. [Apply the salt in spring when the weather is dry, and be caret al not to let it go near Box or Grass edgings. The quantity is immaterial, but enough should be applied to cover the whole of the gravel. — S.] Xiapagerias and Slugs. — I am very much troubled with slugs eat. ing my Lapagerias, and as both red and white come up very strong with me, it is disappointing to see them eaten through or even off altogether. Can any of your readers suggest a remedy ? 1 hunt the slugs by lamp, light, and catch a great mauy ; as all my plants are planted out, it is not easy to surround them with water troughs. Would green tree frogs do any good ? — T. S. [The best protection we know of is placing zinc collars G in. high round the shoots, also wrapping wool round the young shoots inside the zinc. — J. V. & Sons.] Substitute for Asphalte or Cement (p. 5SG,Tol.XIV.) — Asphalte and cement are expensive, and there is a cheaper substitute and quite as good, viz., coal cinders pulverised, or even ashes mixed with pulverised chalk and water. For many purposes these are better than cement. For covering walks, &o., they are lasting and cheap. — Jean Sisley, Zi/oiis. Two Best Melons.—" J. W.," who asked (p. 2 i) for information as to the two best early Melons, must have found himself somewhat puzzled after reading the advice offered him by three good gi-owers as to the sorts named. All three recommeud dirt'erent kinds, and no doubt all believe their varieties to be the very best. Why this diversity on a matter on which there might be expected to bo unanimity ? If auy one had asked for the names of the two best Potatoes, one Kidney and one Round, probably every one would have said in reply, Ashleaf Kidney aud Union or Eai'ly Market Round. There are six times as many sorts of Potatoes as Melons, and yet three growers recommend as the two best early sorts no fewer than seven different kinds. Why is this ? Simply because one Melon is so much like another, in the first place ; secondly, because most growers have their favourite kinds ; and, thirdly, because some kinds will do well in the hands of one man and badly in those of another. The Melon is perhaps, of all vegetables, the most difficult to recommend. " J. W." may say, " I cannot grow all the seven kinds, and how am I to select the two best ?" One kind, at least (Read's Scarlet Flesh), is twice recommended, and this is a special point in its favour ; he may, therefore, well select this kind for one sort, and, if for a Green Flesh kind, he will grow Hecklield Hybrid or Victory of Bath he will not be far wrong. — A. D. Klieums.- " W. T.J." asks if Rheum officinale, of Baillon, and K. palmatum, var. tiviicrbuticum are synonymous. So far as concerns E. officinale and R. pL^lmatum, they are spccitically distinct, but as to the point of diiiinctiou between R- palmatum and the so-called variety tanghuticum, 1 fail to detect any, though 1 have grown them side by side for the lastfewyear.if.aud, seeing that R. palmatum is a native of Tanghut, I thiukit very probable that the only difference lies in the name; E. .officinale n ay, at a glance, be distinguished from the old E. pal. matum by tie leaves having but very shallow lobes and by the inflorescence being more spreading, and the flowers arranged on the branches in a cylindrical manner, while E. palmatum has its leaves very deeply lobed ; they are also much attenuated, the inflorescence is more contracted, and the blossoms are more loosely arranged. It is by far the most desirable <3t the two, from a decorative point o£ view, but both are stately plants and highly ornamental, specially adapted for planting as isolated specimens and also admirably suited for associating with other fine-foliaged plants in producing a sub-tropical effect. Both attain a height of from 7 ft. to iO ft. when in flower. — W. Icehouses — Will " S. D." (Vol. XIV., p. 585) kindly tell me where the door ought to be, aud whether two are required for packing between to keep out the air, &c. ? — W. H. B. [There should be two doors, one at each end of the passage communicating with the pit or well ; the space between them should be filled with straw or litter, closely compressed, to keep out the air, and in order to ensure this being done efficiently, it is always advisable when getting any ice out for use, to close the outer door before the inner one is open, as it is not so much the quantity used that diminishes the bulk, as the waste that takes place through a rise in the temperature, when the outer air is allowed to rush in aud displace that of the house. The whole secret of keeping ice is to so pack it around with straw, or other non-conducting material, as to maintain an equable temperature, and if this be done, aud the body bo sufficiently large, it ia an easy matter to preserve ice the whole year through. I am acquainted with a place where they have a very simple and cheap way cf keeping it, which is by having a large egg-shaped hole, some 12 ft. or 15 ft. deep, in a gravelly soil where there is plenty of drainage, aud this hole except a yard at the bottom, is lined with clay well rammed so as to form a wall, which, before storing the ice is lined with straw in the ordinary way. The root is made to look like a rustic summer house by being covered with reeds, aud managed in this way it answers the purpose well and is rather an ornament than otherwise. The advantage of a contrivance of this sort is that the first cost is light, but where this is not so much a consideration, a house built after the manner of the one described is by tar the best and cheapest in the end, as, except the doors, it is imperishable. These should have good Oak or Spanish Chestnut frames, as those woods are, when in such a trying position of alternate wet and drought, more durable than any other, and the grain being close and solid they are not liable to fungus, so des- tructive to many other kinds of timber. — S. D.] Boilers for Small Houses.— I should bo glad to know where the boiler described by " A. D." (p. 7) is to be obtained, whether it is heated by gas or coal, coke, &c , and whether it would be adapted for a house 25 ft. by 10 ft., with a sloping roof from 7 It. to 12 ft. ? It not, what kind of boiler and what inch tubing w'ould be best for such a house ? and, finally, what a proper boiler, tubing, and fitting would cost ? — A. G. [The boiler in question is known as the Uome-top boiler ; it is upright, round in form, has its ash pan at the base, lifting furnace door above, the fire enclosed in the water case, feeding door on one side of the top, and the flue on the other. It is specially constructed to stand in sheds or outhouses adjoining the house to be warmed, the flow and return pipes being carried through the partition wall ; thus a certain amount of heat is given off in the shed that may he utilised in many ways, whilst abun- dance of heat is generated to keep the glass house well free from frost. Of course the heat so produced will be in proportion to the size of the boiler and the amount of fire required to heat it. A boiler of the size required by " A. G." would cost about £3 15s., and would heat enough of ■4-in. piping for a house of the size named. It can be got at the Thames Bank Ironworks. It is heated either by coal or coke, but the former is found to be at once the cheapest and most efficient. If, however, it is found that combustion is rapid, a mixture of small coke aud cinders may be added with advantage after the fire is well burnt up. The entire cost of the boiler, requisite piping — that is, one flow and return — with fitting, would be about £7. The addition of another flow pipe would give more heating power, and add perhaps 253. more to the cost. A special feature of this boiler is that as it needs no setting it can easily be removed, and is therefore specially acceptable to those who have short tenancies. — A. D.] Names of Plants. — E. H.— The conclusiou arrived at as to the name of the portion of pod sent is rather unsatisfactory, but in all proba- bility it is a species of Mucuna. Questions. Frtiit Trees in an Oreliard House.— Is it advisable to plunge in loam fruit trees in pots that are grown in an orchard house ? or is it better to place the pots in the ground ? What is the best liquid manure to encourage good fruiting ? and when is it best applied .'—J. E. W. Plants for a Small Greenhouse. — What plants can I safely cultivate in a small greenhouse whose winter temperature varies between 30^" and 40' Fahr., and which is not heated in summer ? What I want are plants that would come into flower all the year round. The house con- tains a fine Black llamburgh Vine, which does not bear pushing on with heat. It is a lean-to against the northern wall of my garden ; therefore, has a full southern aspect, and gets plenty of bght.— J. E. E. How can I best combine Fruit and Flowers ? — We have the following houses and frames, viz., three successional Vineries with stages, one Mushi-oom house with little light, two Peach houses without stages, one hot and one cold, the Peaches being trained on the wall, and one house specially for flowers. This latter, owing to the water tank which heats the other houses, is too damp for plants like Pelargoniums. These houses are all lean.tos ; there are also numbers of frames hot and cold. What would be the best way of combining flowers for the house and conservatory all the year round, and bedding-out plants with the requirements of the fruit ? Our difficulty has hitherto been that the flowers are sacrificed to the fruit, for, although we have all degrees of heat, we cannot at some seasons command sufficient light by bringing the plants close enough to the glass. Our present arrangement, which does not keep up a satisfactory supply of flowers all the year round, is to keep Ferns and flowers just coming into bloom in the greenhouse, which is kept at the highest average temperature ; hardwooded plants and those in bud in the warn\ Peach house, having little else in the Vineries than cuttings, seedlings, &c. As I know that this problem, how to combine fruit and flowers, is a constant difficulty in private gardens, will some of your ex- perienced correspondents give us their advice as to what flowers, including cool Orchids, it would be best to assign to each house ? Also if more glass is indispensable, what would be the best to put up ? — A. B. Spent Bark from Tanneries. — Can this material be utilised in the kitchen or flower garden ? also gas hme, or urine ? — Ignobamus. 70 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1879. SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. KOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. January 1-i. The most prominent features of this exhibition were Bowering and fine- foliaged plants from Messrs. Veitch & Sons, of the King's RoaJ, Chelsea ; collections of brilliant blooms of Zonal Pelargoniums, from Mr. Cannell ; and groups of Primulas from Messrs. Sutton & Sons, of Reading. First-class Certificates were awarded as follows — Amaryllis Dr. Master's CWilliams). — A kind with well-formed flowers of an intense orange-crimson, very distinct, and well worth adding to even small collections. Staphylea colehica (Veitch). — A hardy shrnb with white flowers, and of great value for forcing — to all appearance even superior to the mnch grown Deutzia gracilis. It is a plant which will, doubtless, be largely grown for supplying cut blooms at Christmas. Primula Ruby Kin^ (Sutton & Sons). — One of the finest Chinese Primulas in cultivation. The habit of the plant is good, the leaves hand. Bomely cut, and the flowers, which are produced in very large trusses, of a deep satiny magenta-purple, with a rich golden eye. Cyelam.en Reading Gem (Sutton & Sons). — A variety with handsomely marbled leaves and very large purple flowers with broad, pure white petals. Miscellaneous Plants, &o. — Messrs. Yeitch & Sons were awarded a silver-gilt Flora medal for a miscellaneous collection of flowering plants, amongst which were Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, Primulas, Carnations, Lilac Charles X., and the pretty Crassula lactea in pans ; also fine basket- fuls of flowering plants of Daphne indica and indica rubra. These were backed up by well-grown plants of Yucca filamentosa variegata, Palms, Rhododendrons, and Indian Azaleas. A cultural commendation was awarded to Mr. Cannell for an exquisite stand of blooms of Zonal Pelar- goniums, the trusses of which, as well as the flowers, were large, and the latter highly coloured. Among others, the following kinds were worthy of special notice : Mrs. Leavers, brilliant rose ; Lord Gift'ord, bright scarlet ; Louisa, lilac-pink ; Dr. John Denny, intense purple, crimson centre ; Cir- culator, fine salmon ; Lady Sheffield, deep rose ; Lizzie Brooks, crimson EuS'used with purple ; and J. C. Masters, purplish-crimson. Mr. Cannell also contributed plants of Primulas, the flowers of which were of a bright rosy-magenta, large, and well formed. Mr. B. S. Williams, of Holloway, contributed Cymbidium afiine, a plant distinct in habit, form, and colour fromany other kind ; also well-flowered examples of Masdevalliapolysticta; finely-flowered plants of Sophronitis grandiflora, growing on cork ; and one of the finest varieties of Odontoglossum Rossi grandiflorum perhaps ever exhibited. Mr. W. Brown, Brent Nurseries, Hendon, sent finely grown plants of a white variety of Pnmula sinensis fimbriata, named Princess Louise ; a deep rose-magenta kind belonging to the same class named Exquisita; also a handsome rose-coloured Fern-leaved kind, and a blue-flowered variety named P. sinensis fimbriata ccerulea. The same ex- hibitor likewise showed a group of Solanums, remarkable for their dwarf, compacthabit and the abundance of brilliant scarlet berries which they bore. For these and others, a small silver Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Sutton & Sons contributed a striking group of Primulas, for which a large silver Banksian medal was awarded. Mr. OUerhead, gardener to Sir H. Peek, Wimbledon House, contributed a distinct and charming variety of Odontoglossum cirrhosum, which was much admired. Mr. Parr, The Gardens, Harrow Weald Park, showed Abutilon Yellow Prince, a compact-habited kind, especially adapted to winter flowering. Its blossoms are of a lively lemon colour and very distinct ; also Vesuvius, a very free-flowering Abutilon, resembling Darwini. Messrs. Osborn & Sons, Fulham, exhibited an attractive collection of hardy berry-bearing shrubs. A fine basketful of plauts of Crassula lactea was exhibited by Mr. Thomson, of the Crystal Palace. Seedling Poinsettias were shown by Mr. Sparj , of Brighton, but were considered to be no improvement on existing kinds. The exhibition of ornamental trees and shrubs by Messrs. Lee, ot Hammersmith, full particulars of which were given in The G-1i:den (Vol. XIV., p. 571) was still on view and attracted much attention. Two dishes of Seakale were sent by Jlessrs. Veitch & Sons, one was named Fulham White, the other Lily White. The two kinds being thought by some identical, they were shown on this occasion to prove that they were distinct ; the former appears to be coarser than the latter, and the tips of the leaves are rose, whilst those of Lily White are greenish yellow. A dish of large Mushrooms, six of which weighed IHb. was exhibited by the Messrs. Pratt, The Gardens, Hawkstone, Shrewsbury. Scottish Horticultural Association (.Tan. 7).— Mr. John Sadler delivered a short lecture on this occasion on Fungi. He said that th« Natural Order to which they belonged contained 1,000 different genera and 25,000 species. Fungi constituted one of the gardeners' and foresters' greatest enemies. They luxuriated in shady woods and mossy dells. Before their ravages the Potato, Turnip, and Wheat crops and roots of ConiferEe gave way and timber crumbled; even in the very air we breathe, in the water, food, and medicine which we use were to be found the germs of fungi iu teeming multitudes. Their effects were sometimes very injurious, and at other times unspeakable benefits were conferred by their becoming Nature's scavengers. Allusion was then made to the Vine and Potato disease, 'and to dry rot. A piece of wood was shown with mycelium running through it. Reference was then made to the aquatic forms of fungi, and of edible and poisonous Mushrooms ; 700 different species were reported to be found in Britain. The common Mushroom (Agaricus campestris) was the principle fungus used in this country although ex- cluded from Ronie. Agaricus oreades, A. prunulus (or Plum Mushroom, which was used in Rome) and A. annularis were illustrated by diagrams, as were also the Boletus edulis. Phallus, and Morchella esculenta. The effects of Agaricus nector resembled those of intoxication, and the Boletus Satanas was also a dangerous fungus. The lecture throughout was illus- trated by specimens and diagrams. Mr. McMillan, Broadmeadows, exhi- bited some fine trusses of zonal Pelargoniums and cut blooms of Chry- santhemums in an exceptionally fine condition. 'The latter numbered thirty-nine of the finest varieties which were planted out in a house to which they are removed about the beginning of October. The Pelar- gonium trusses numbered twenty-six, all remarkably fine for the month of January, the flowers being large, finely-formed, of great substance, and bright in colour. Mr. L. Dow exhibited Turnip tops which he used as a substitute for Seakale. Some observations on the weather by Mr. Burns, Thingwall, Berkenhead, were read, in which he stated that the most frost registered by him was 2^^ on December 25. A communication on the same subject was read from Mr. Hugh Dickson, Belfast, where the ther- mometer stood at zero on December 25. LAW. Right to Remove He3ge Briers.— Atthe Rugby Potty Sessions, a labourer named David Forster, of Brinklow, was charged with stealing a quantity of Briers, value £1, the property of the Duke of Buccleuch. Mr. Wilkes, solicitor.Coventry, defended. Evidence was given by Mr. Rose, gamekeep3r,a3 to defendant taking about 150 Briers from All Oaks' Wood, and Mr. Superintendent Palmer said the Briers were sold to nurserymen for Rose tree stocks. Mr. Wilkes raised a novel point, by saying that no- offence had been committed against the Act under which the summons was issued, as Briers did not come under the definition of trees, saplings, or underwood, as set forth in the section, and it was no offence to steal them ; and he called Mr. Bradford, farmer, who said Briers were of no value but a nuisance ; and Mr. B. Fitter, farmer, said in his opinion Briers were hedge weeds, and not underwood, and he was very glad to get rid of them ; and the former witness added that he had given defendant per- mission to take them out of his hedges. Mr. Wilkes said, as a point of law, no evidence ot ain;Hi!(»-/H''"»d» had been given. Defendant was fined £l lOs.j including costs. — " Journal of Forestry." Milk of the Cow Tree. — Alexander Humboldt remarks that among the many wonderful natural phenomena which he had during his extensive travels witnessed, none impressed him in a more remarkable degree than the sight of a tree yielding an abundant supply of milk, th& properties of which seemed to be the same as those of the milk of a cow . The adult Indians would go each morning with their slaves from the village or station on the slope of the mountain chain bordering oa Venezuela, where Humboldt was stopping, to a forest where the Cow trees grew, and, making some deep incisions into the trees, in less than two hours their vessels, placed under these incisions, would be full. The tree itself attains a height of from 45 ft. to 60 ft., has long alternate leaves, and was described by Linden as Brosimum galactodendren. The milk which flows from any wound made iu the trunk is white and some- what viscid ; the flavour is very agreeable. Some time ago, on the occa- sion of M. Boussingault going to South America, Humboldt requested him to take every opportunity of investigating this subject. At Maracay the tree was first met with, and for more than a month its excellent qualities were daily tested in connection with coffee and chocolate ; but there was no opportunity for a chemical analysis. Nor does such appear to have occurred till the other day when, among the many curious matters exhibited by the Venezuelan Government at the Paris Exhibition, there happened to be several flasks of this milk, and after a long period M. Boussingault has been enabled to complete his analysis of this sub- stance. In a memoir laid before the Academy of France he states that this vegetable milk most certainly approaches in its composition to the milk of the cow ; it contains not only fatty matter, but also sugar, caseine, and phosphates. But the relative proportion of these substances is greatly in favour of the vegetable milk, and brings it up to the richness of cream, the amount of butter iu cream being about the same propor- tion as the peculiar waxy material found in the vegetable milk, a fact that will readily account for its great nutritive powers. — " Times." Rogieria gratissima. — This is not so tender as has^een supposed. We are informed that foi-morly in the York Nurseries, this Rogiera used to be treated as a stove plant, but with such poor success that it was hideous to behold. It wa-s then removed to a cool house and planted out, where it has done remarkably well, and has for the last three years or more been quite an attractive object. The temperature of the house where it is growing iu winter is from .35' to 45^ AH that is done by arti- ficial heat is just simply to keep out the frost in severe weather. — " Gardeners' Chronicle." We have great pleasure in being able to confirm the statement first made in The Garden that Mr. John Sadler has been appointed Curator o£ the Edinburgh Botanic Garden. THE GARDEN. 71 ITo. 376.] SATURDAY, JANtJABY 25, 1879. [Vol. XV " This is an art Which does mend Nature : chang:e it rather ; but Thb Abt itself 13 Natube." — Shakespeare^ "TREES OP THE FUTURE." Few trees have suffered more at the hands of their admirers than the Deodar (Cedrus deodara). Planted high and dry on mounds or in low and undrained positions it has too frequently paid the penalty of its fatal gift of beauty, and sunk into pre- mature decline and death. For more than forty years has this tree been praised for its gracefulness and colour in its young state ; forty years hence will it have the same reputation that it now enjoys ? The principal charm of a full grown tree lies in its habit, whether it be tall and slender, or massive and spreading, as a Cedar of Lebanon ; and it is the latter that we associate naturally with the Cedar ; so I venture to ask the multitude, not the initiated few, is it generally known that the Deodar is not a tree of spreading habit ? In its native Hima- layan gorges it thrives where deluging rains alternate with sultry heat during the period of its growth, and under these conditions of shelter and moisture it shoots up with a lofty trunk and drooping tiers of adpressed side branches to a height of 150 ft. before it begios to form the branching, forked head characteristic of the Cedar family, but which it reproduces only on a very small scale. We have already in the Cedar of Lebanon a tree that is unrivalled in the grandeur of its branching head ; and, unless the Deodar succeeds in re- sisting the stunting influence of winter gales, so as to assert its superior height and stature in mature growth, we shall have neglected one of the grandest trees in Nature, for a tree that not only is not more beautiful but is one that will only come to real perfection in the most sheltered valleys of Southern and Western England. A glance at some of the oldest Deodars, notably those at Kew and at Blenheim, will show how far a Deodar in an average situation falls short of the stature and grace which it shows in its native forests, and how on the other hand, the Cedars of Upper Gatton or , of Warwick Castle reproduce, in the most perfect way, the grandeur of their growth on the slopes of Lebanon. The real wonder is that a tree that thrives in company with Rhododendron arboreum and other forms too tender for an English climate should have been found hardy in this country, and given us so much beauty in a young state. Before leaving the Cedar family, Cedrus atlantica deserves praise because it has shown itself to be a hardier tree in the north of Eng- land than the two preceding ones. On cold soils and in exposed situations, where those just mentioned barely exist, Cedrus atlantica makes a sturdy vigorous growth that will always render it welcome where variety is sought for, and bids fair to make itself a name among exotic trees that require neither coddling nor protection. The next tree that occurs to me, in these erratic wanderings, is a native of the southern hemisphere, and differs so widely from those mentioned before that it has not yet attained the position to which it is entitled, although it was introduced at the end of the last century. I mean the Araucaria irabricata. This tree, from the breezy uplands of Chili, is the onlv repre- sentative of its family that can find a place in our gardens — a family that can boast of the towering Norfolk Island Pine and the equally stately Bunya-Bunya (Araucaria Bidwilli), the pride of Queensland forests. Here we have a tree that thrives equally well on the coldest and most exposed hillsides of the north, and on the warmer soils and situations of the southern half of the kingdom. All who have had the privilege of seeing it in its native country are loud in their praises, both as to the value of its timber and the stateliness of its port when old ; and those who, in this country, have seen it at Dropmore, Belvoir, and other places where it has attained suffioient age and growth to judge it fairly, will acknowledge that, of all Coniferous trees planted in this century, this is the one that must bear the palm in years to come. Stiff and ungainly as a young seedling, skeleton-like and formal as a young tree, it is the most perfect example of the ugly duckling of fairy story ; but we have here a tree that becomes in mature growth an object of the highest beauty, whether we admire the Pern-like grace of its massive lower branches, or are astonished at its growth in the Chilian forests, where, in old age, the lower branches decay, and the top expands into the mightiest " umbrella " among Pines, with so level a head that, from a distance, the forest looks like a deep green lawn made by no mortal hands. Its power of withstanding violent g.ales is un- rivalled, as it presents so small a surface to the wind, and thus it thrives where other trees are blown to pieces ; but, like every tree, it has its peculiarities, and refuses to flourish where smoke at all taints the air, or salt spray can touch it, and is more at home on the exposed upland than in the level plain. Planters should beware of the male form, which, though handsome in early days, makes only a small, stunted tree, and never attains the proportions of the other sex. If it be true that it is from California we have obtained the largest number of ornamental trees, Cupressus macrocarpa must certainly be mentioned as one of the most valuable from many points of view. Introduced about thirty years ago, it has the rare distinction of having proved itself in that short time more rapid and vigorous in growth in our moist climate than in the drier one it came from in California. On the windy heights of Porto Pinos that overlook Monterey Bay, where the headquarters of this Cupressus are to be found, it is^a stunted wind-blown tree with spreading, horizontal branches and thickened trunk that tell of the barren soil and the fierce north- west wind, as well as the rainless climate against which it has struggled. Nourished by frequent sea fogs, long hoary Lichens hang beard-like from the leeward branches, and make a strange contrast with the rich green foliage of these groves now so sought after by pleasure- seekers, who here find a cool retreat from the inland heats of a Californian summer. In a position such as this, where the drifting sand whitens the ground this tree does not attain a greater height than 30 ft. or 40 ft. even in old age ; but, growing as it does where no other tree could exist, it may well be imagined what a future must be before it for all seaside planters ; and at a little dis- tance from the shore, where, instead of a one-sided struggle for existence, it can spread out its branches evenly, what a beautiful tree it is ! Its greenness of foliage, coupled with extreme rapidity of growth and beauty in a young state, have long since made it a great favourite in the south-west of England and Ireland, where already it surpasses in height its progenitors in Monterey Bay. Unluckily there has been a prejudice against this tree on account of its supposed inability to stand severe frost, because in the extraordinary winter of 1860-61 many young specimens were killed in all parts of the kingdom. Since then established trees have not suffered, and it may be confidently asserted that it is hardy in all but the dampest and lowest parts of the kingdom, as a tree that grows naturally on a dry soil will always be rendered tender by being planted where it is saturated with excessive moisture at the root. As a seaside tree on all parts of our coast, where protection can be given for the first few years of its existence, it is quite unrivalled, and as it bears clipping admirably it forms a valuable shelter from the wind when planted as a hedge, just as the hedges of the European Cypress afford shelter from winter winds in the south of Prance. To the slender grace of the Deodar and the stately grandeur of Araucaria imbricata, the spreading and yet delicate growth of this green Cypress forms a delightful contrast, and in combina- tion makes the most charming foreground to the two former Conifers, a trio of most distinct and beautiful trees. There is also a variety that assumes a pyramidal form and makes an exceedingly handsome specimen in places where no Cedar or Deodar could thrive. In some form or other no garden should be without this tree, which, like our native Tew, accommodates itself to so many purposes, while it outvies it both in rapidity of growth and brightness of colouring. Even on the north- east coast of Yorkshire it seeds freely at a short distance from the sea, and numbers of young trees have been raised from its cones, thus showing its entire suitability to our climate. The other Californian Cypress (Cupressus Lawsoniana) is so well known and universally planted as to deserve no further comment. It forms a columnar tree of glaucous colouring. 72 THE GARDEN. [Jan 25, -1879. and tbrires everywhere in these islands, but in old aB;e it is not so bold and effective a tree as the former from what I have been able to gather. Its beauty in a young state, and its perfect hardiness, will, however, always insure its being largely planted. E. H. Woodall. QUALITY OF WELLINGTONIA. TIMBER. The wood of tbo Wellingtonia gigantea is considered utterly valas. leas in California. It ia bo brittle that it ia said a tree will break off by its own weight when the baik, which ia extremely thick and tough, has once been oat through all the way round the trunk. E. H. WoODAH. It doea not require much knowledge of timber for any one to see that the wood of Wellingtonia gigaitea ia comparatively worthless so far as durability ia concerned, at le.ast, if put to any of the present uses for which deals sawn from the diffdrent kinds of Pinnses are now in request. The grain of the Wellingtonia is short and brittle, as may readily be seen by the way in which its branchea snap when touched or exposed to mnch wind, and wood of tbia character, even when fully grown, ia neither strong nor lasting. It ia not always, however, that the value of timber can be jadged by ita hardnesa or texture, aa it often ocoura that sooh aa are soft and easily worked up fetch the best prices. Mr. Baines cites an instance of this in the Sycamore, the wood of which is in request for machine rollers, and I have known Alder in places sell uncommonly well for turning purposes, such aa making toys, pill boxes, &o., aa well aa broom heads and similar articles. In wet land districts I know of jQOtbing more profitable to grow than Alders and Willows, as, basidea the latter being used tor railway and waggon brakes, it is the only wood of snfBcient lightneaa that will stand the battering of a cricket ball. Rapidity of growth, or the reverse, is not always an index of the hardness and quality of timber, as the Larch and Donglaa Pir abundantly prove, for neither of these can be said to be slow growers, and yet their durability under the most trying circumstances is beyond question. So solid and full of resinous matter ia the wood of Abies Douglasi that it is heavier, size for size, than that of any other Fir with which I am acquainted, and aa to rapidity of growth, in favourable localitiea, where it can have shelter, it rivals the Larch, which, as every one knows, frequently makes leading shoots 3 ft. long in a season. So far as ray experience goes, the Doaglas Fir has all the good qualities of the Larch with the addi. tional recommendation that it is evergreen, and therefore of greater value ia pheasant preaervea for these birds to roost on. At one time Spruce waa mach grown for thia purpoae, but of all Conifers it ia the most worthless, the timber being short and brittle and liable to readily decay. Pinua Laricio and the Scotch Fir can neither be regarded as slow growers, and yet their wood ia strong and durable ; and the same may be said of many others of a similar character. It appears, therefore, that in this, aa in most other matters, there ia no rule without an exception. Of all rapid-growing trees the Eucalyptus globulus is said to stand at the head ; and yet I have been told that in Auatralia, where the climate suits it s) as to ripen it thoroughly, ita wood ia of the hardeat and moat durable description, a fact which accounts for the name of Ironwood tree which it bears. Then again, take the Sweet Chestnut, which ia almost equal to the Oak in durability, the heart being very oloae-grained, tough, and hard, and yet it is by no means a slow-growing tree when planted in suitable soil. Other instances might be mentioned, but the above are, I think, sufficient to show that some treea, at least, that are of rapid growth are greatly prized for their timber. S. D. It ia probable that at the time when Mr. Biines (in rashly undertaking to pronounce against the quality of the timber of Wel- lingtonia) advanced the doctrine that the quality (embracing the da. rability) of timber may generally be estimated by its rate of growth, he little thought of the array of non-supporting facts which " C" has cleverly served up for his consideration. Other instances might be adduced, but meanwhile 1 will content myself with a few remarks on the timber which gave rise to this discussion — that of the Welling- tonia. Respecting ita durability, the whole evidence goes to prove it to be of the most lasting description. In an excellent article on " The Distribution of the North American Flora," which appeared in a contemporary last year. Sir Joseph Hooker, speaking of the dura- bility of the Big-tree trunks when fallen, says: "The duration of the dead wood in the foreat is very great, I rarely observed signs of rot in the fallen trees which I examined, whilst in similar forests in Northern California I saw gigantic trunks of Silver Firs forming mounds of rotten iUbris without an atom of sound wood, and thia in two years after their fall, as I was assured. 1 had no date for ascer- taining the length of time which any of the prostrate Wellingtonia (Sequoia) trunks which I saw may have lain on the ground, bat Mr. Mair has supplied me with a very crucial case. It ia that of a pros- trate trunk with no signs of decay in any part of it, which had been burnt in two by a forest fire, and in the trench between the severed portions of which a Silver Fir grew. This Fir was felled, and had 380 annual rings j therefore to estimate the time during which the Wellingtonia trunk bad lain uninjured, we must add to the 380 years, the time it lay before the forest fire burnt it in two, and then the unknown interval between that time and the arrival of the Silver Fir seed." Thus its durability, one of the constituents of quality, is favourably settled. There still remain the other two components — strength and toughness to be disposed of. These I am afraid are foreign to the Big-tree timber ; it ia well known to be " frosh," but not worthless. It is easily split, and is capable of taking on a good palish. Ia there no use for such timber ? Californians seem to think there ia, for according to the article already quoted from, " No less than five saw-milla have recently been established in the most luxuriant of the Big-tree groves, and one of the mills alone cut in 1875 two million feet of Big-tree lumber ; and a company has lately been formed to cut another grove." Geo. Syme. The few kinds of trees which ",C" mentions as affording evidence opposed to what I have said in regard to the timber of slow- growing trees being generally of better quality than that of those whiuh form wood more rapidly, do not affect the question from a general po'nt of view, such aa that from which my oonclasiona were drawn. I am conversant with what bears upon the subject in Lindley's " Theory and Practice of Horticulture," and also with the Teat Tables of the Admiralty, in both of which there is a good deal that clashes with every day experience. Take, for example, the slowly grown Oak timber produced in Hertfordshire, and that of the same tree from the moist, deep. soiled valleys of Westmoreland, where the wo3d is formed so much quicker, and ask the opinion of any one who ha3 had expe ience with the comparative laa:ing capabilities of each when used for a parpose that would afford evidence within a limited time, such aa in gates, gate poata, park railings, or others of a like character, and I am tolerably sure what would be the reply. " C " misses his mark so far that he actually confirms what I have said when he instances the Liburoum and cotnmon Elder. Itia quite true that both these reaoh their full growth in a comparatively abort time, but when that time hai espired, and the masia.nm of size has been attained, the rate of increase in the wood will still be found to have been slow, from the simple fact that the bulk in both cases is small proportionate to the time occupied in ita formation. I waa looking at the subject from a general, not from an esceptioDa', point of view, aa I think waa evident from what I wrote. Timber containing sncli an amount of resinous matter as the Scotch Fir and Larch are also both outside the question, and so ia the Eucalyptaa and Teak, both woods produced under very different conditions of soil and climate from ours. Home-grown timber alone is concerned in the matter, and to introduce anything beyond it is calculated to mislead. The question ia, in reality, confined to Wellingtonia. Does " C." imagine that there are any considerable number of individuals whose observa- tion and experience connected with the growth of timber generally in thia country are such as to give weight to their opinions who have any belief that the timber of this tree will be anything above second-rate in quality as compared with that of other well. proved trees ? To plant the Wellingtonia in limited quantities for decora- tive purposes is undoubtedly quite right, provided the positions chosen are suitable, which is by no means always the case, often completely the reverse ; but those who plant it extensively with a view to the production of timber will not, I think, bs much compli. mented for their wisdom by the generations which follow them, even if the tree continues to thrive for a lengthened period in this country, which, from what I have had an opportunity of seeing in many places, is doubtful. T. Baixes. THE CLBTHRAS. This genus of Heathworts contributes to our gardens several highly ornamental shrubs, some of them being rarely seen although their cultivation is remarkably easy and their require- ments readily met. The different species are spread over North America, through Central Americj, to South Brazil, Japan, and Madeira. Many handsome kinds come from Brazil and Peru, several of which are not yet introduced to cultivation. All are shrubs or small trees with alternate, serrate leaves and pretty white blossoms borne in terminal racemes or panicles ; they most delight in a sandy peat and tolerably moist position. The Japanese and North American sorts make beautiful objects in the front of the shrubbery border, the tip of nearly every shoot being terminated by showy flowers. The easiest mode of Jan. 25, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 73 propagation is by means of seeds, which germinate freely if sown in sandy peat and kept continually moist in a cool place ; layering may also be resorted to, although a couple of years or more are often required before the layers are rooted sufficiently to allow of removal. Some of the sorts, too, throvr up suckers which, when carefully taken up, make good plants in a short time. Cuttings of the half-ripened wood, inserted in sandy peat under a bell-glass and kept under shade, root readily in most cases. A great recommendation for the kinds hereafter described is that they are perfectly hardy in this country, with the exception of two or three which are specially mentioned as being tender. The Alder-leaved Clethra (0. alnifjlla) wai th? first of all to find its way to Eoglnh gardens. In the first edition of the " Hor- tna Kewensia " Mr. CoUinson is said to have introducaJ this species in 1736. Catesby's first volame was, however, completed in 1732, and in it he describes the plant as then floarishin^ in the open air at Hoxton. In a wild state it affects wet copses from Miine to Vir- ginia, near the coast and southward. It grows from 3 ft. to 10 ft. high, and in July and A.ugu3t is CDvered with its handsome, fragrant flowers. The leaves, which are intermediate bstween wedge-shaped and oval in outline, are entire towards the base and sharply-serrated upwards, prominently straight-veiaed and smooth and gresn on both upper and under sarfaces. The racemes are upright, panicled, and the bracts are shorter than the flowers. Several plants, probably mere geographical forms of this and only differing from it in degrees of roughness, hairiness, &o., have, at various times, received specific names. D-. Asa Gray, in his " Manuil," says : " In the South are varieties with the leaves rather soibroas and pubescent, or white downy beneath." The Woolly-leaved Clethra (C. toauentosi) is confined to the Southern States, and was sent to the gardens of this country from New Orleans by Mr. Drummond. It differs froai the Alder- leaved Clethra in its young foliage and branches^ the under surface of the olJer leaves, and the fljwer stalks and calyx being covered with hairy down. In cultivation it forms a small handsome shrub, and, towards the close of the summer, bears very abundantly its racemes of white fragrant blossoms. Its somewhat straggling branches are slightly tinged with red ; the leaves, which are about 3 in. long, are dark green, almost glossy above, and hoiry with whitish down beneath. The Acute-leivad Clethra (J. acuminata), a till shrub or small tree, is a native of woods in the Alleghanies, Virginia, and southward, and flowers in July and August. The leaves are oval or oblong-pointed, thin, finely serrated, and from 5 in. to 7 in. in length ; in colour they are green above and pale below. The racemes are drooping and solitary, not in clusters ; the bracts, too, are longer than the flowers. Mr. Lyon intro laced it to this country in 1803. The Paaicle-flovrered Clethra (C. pauioulata), another North American sort, has a truly paniculate inSorescenoe, the upright panicle lasting a considerable time in full beauty. The smooth leaves are between laace-shaped and oval, anJ are serrated at the edges. Tae Bearded-nerved Clethra (C. barbinervis) is a native of Japan, from which country it has been recently introduced to Continental gardens by Maximowioz. It has long, rather oval leaves which are somewhat wedge-shaped at the base, and sharply serrated at the edges. On the upper surface, they are covered with short and rough hairs ; on the under, the nerves are hairy, the axils of the principal ones being bearded. The blossoms are borne in upright racemes or panicles, and the leaf-stalks and flower. stalks are covered with rusty hairs. This has proved itself in many places to be quite as hardy as any of the foregoing kinds, all of which are deciduous. The Tree Oiethra (C. arborea), b^Ing a native of Madeira, whence it was introduced by Masson in 173t, is not so hardy as any of the sorts already mentioned, requiring, indeed, the shelter of a conservatory for its successful ca'tivation. It is an exceedingly handsome, tree-like, evergreen shrub, and, when planted out in the bed of a conservatory, attains a height of 10 ft. or 12 ft. lu pots, however, it is easily kept within reasonable bounds. The leaves are oblong, lance shaped, serrated, glabrous both above and below. The beautiful blossoms, which much resemble those of Lily of the Valley, are produced in spike-like racemes, arranged in panicles, from August to October. This most desirable shrub will grow ioany spot from which frost is excluded, and, as a corridor plant, few objects would be more admired. There is in cultivation a form with varie- gated foliage, and another a miniature of the large-growing type. The Oak-leavad Olethr j, (0. qaeroifolia) inhabits the neigli- bourhool of Jalapa, in Mexico, and has folli^e similar to tha". of some of the Mexican Oiks. It is a most beautiful evergreen green- house shrub, with deliciouily fragrant flowers, and requires about the same treatment as the Tree Clethra. G. GROWTH OP PLA.NT3 UNDER BBECE TREES. The discussion on this subject in your oolnmna, shows that there seems to be no subject on which men will not disagree. 1 think that out of a hundred men acquainted with woodlands, ninety-nine would agree in saying that to plant shrubs under Beech trees would be sheer waste of money. The character of Beech woods everywhere is hollowness, and though in certain exceptional cases growth mire or less vigorous may be found immediately under large Beech trees, it is generally accounted for by side light or air getting we'l under the boughs of the Beech. There is no pUce where this question may be studied more profitably than in the Xew forest in Hampshire. The undergrowth there is of course natural, and very profuse, consisting of Holly Butcher's Broom, Furze, Brake, Thorn, Honejsnckle, &o. The growth continues right up to the stems of the Oak trees, but in most cases disappears under those of Beeches, except where the branches are high and the stems bare. Holly and Butohor's Broom seem more tolerant of the shade than any other shrubs. On the other hand Walnut trees, a comparison between which and Beech trees began this discussion, are very troublesome when planted near garden grouni, as they send their roots as far and are as exhaustive of tha soil in flower or vegetable borders as Ash trees. Salmo.vkjeps. Allow me to say that here. Box, Yew, Syringa, and Mahonias, grow most luxuriantly under, and in many cases close to the trunks of the Beech trees, and fine trees they are too. H. W. Wahd. Lonij/ord Castle. We have some very fine old Beech trees here with the tops well interlaced, and underneath them is as good cover of Laurel as it is possible to have, interspersed with fine Hollies and Yew probably 100 yea s old — the Beech trees being 150 years old. I have just finishel pruning the Laurels, our system being to take out all pieces of upright growth, letting ouly the flat horizontal branches remain, an operation which is performed once in five or six years. The soil being of very good quality, Laurels thus treated do well, and make one of our best preserves for pheasants, and when Beech nuts are plentiful and the ground covered with snow, wood pigeons flock in hundreds to feed on the nuts protected by the snow-bent Laurel branches. The Hollies and Yew are never as a rule reduced in size, being of comparatively slow growth, and they are not of a compact dense character like those exposed to a greater amount of light. Killerton, Exeter. John Oakland. — ^— Mvy I crave spaoo to add a few explanatory words on this subject? a] it seems to me the real point of the discnision has become somewhat euvolved. What gave rise to the discussion was my contradiction of M. Lavallee'a statement that underwood " throve and flourished " under the Beech, which I said was one of the worst trees in the forest for destroying underwood. I was thinking, at the time, of the misleading nature of M. Lavallee's statement aud of the Bjech as a forest tree, and my remarks were principally intended as a caution to planters who wished to keep up underwood in their woods without more attention than usual. I was not thinking of isolated Beech trees with tall and naked trunks in pleasure grounds, as appears to be the case at Floors, nor did I ever doubt or say that under such circumstances underwood would not grow ; I knew better, and in proof of this I may p lint to my own statement in a paper that was written by me before this discussion took place, and pub. lishedinTnE Garde.v a month ago. In that paper, in speaking of woodland trees, I state tha-. "it is simply the dense and long. continued shade of the Beech that kills undergrowth, but that ouly happens when many Beeches are planted together. Almost any. thing will grow under the drip of the branches of Beech trees standing in the open park where light reaches the trunk all round. Between myself, therefore, and those who have furnished exceptions, so called, as to plants growing under Beech trees, there does not appear to be mnch difference, as their experience seems mostly to relate to cases where the Beech trees were thinly scattered on the ground. The question is la the Beech a proper tree to plant freely where underwool is expected to thrive ? and to which I answer. No. In going through a wood where the natural undergrowth is varied and abundant, if one comes upon a bare spot it is sure to be under the far.spreading and interlacing branches of a group of Beech trees. Underwood has once been there, and yon may often enough see the remains of it, but it has perished. This is the kind of evidence upon which my assertions are based, and it has not been controverted. In the woods here the underwood, consisting of coppice wood of dif. ferent kials is p'entiful enough, and the common Bramble renders 74 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1879. the woods in most places almost impassable, except where the Beech abounds, and there vepetation disappears altogether or nearly so. J. S. W. NOTES & QUESTIONS ON TEEES, SHSUBS, & WOODLANDS. Viburnum lucidum.— The plant alluded to by Mr. Scott (p. 57) as V. lucidum is quite correctly named, but it is not recognised as a species ; it is only a variety of the common Laurustinug. The true V. lucidum has larger and more leathery, roundish leaves than those of the Laurustinus. It should also be somewhat pubescent, as V. looidum is sometimes known as V. hirtura. There is a fine variegated form of it, and it has aflSnity with, if not identical with V. strictuni virgatnm, Ac— all forms of V. Tinus. I should say the plant from North America, with thick, shining leaves, is V. laeviga. turn ; if the latter be Mr. Scott's plant it will be quite smooth. — T. Williams, OrmsUrk. Variegated Hollies. — I discovered the other day a handsome variegated Holly in the forest of Needwood. It is a sport from a nearly smooth-leaved variety, of erect, pyramidal growth, and I think it an improvement on all existing varieties. The marking (a splash of gold occupying the whole middle of the leaf) is more brilliant than in the variety called Golden Milkmaid. It has also purple stems, which add considerably to its beauty. There are likewise many other finely-marked varieties in this quarter, some of which attain a height of 50 ft. — W. Elliott, Burton-on-Trent. New Forms of Pernettya mucronata. — Considerable interest attached to the new forms of Pernettya mucronata exhibited at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society by Mr. L. T. Davis, Ogles Grove Nursery, County Down, and to one of which, P. mucronata lilaoina, which with two others, is figured in the current number of the " Floral Magazine," a first-class certificate was awarded. We are informed by Mr. Davis that these Pernettyas are the result of selection from several batches of seedlings, the first lot having been raised from P. mucronata angustifolia many years since. Those exhibited at the meeting above referred to were only a few selected from many varieties so produced, so varied, also, as to present almost endless shades of colour in the berries, combined with much diversity in habit of growth and character of foliage. Mr. Davis has succeeded in obtaining several very pretty varieties with pink and blush. coloured berries, and one almost pure white, that is white with a slight tinge of blush, and there is one distinct creeping type with distinct rose, coloured berries. In making a selection of varieties for distribution, Mr. Davis has paid as much attention to the free.fruitiug qualities of the plants as to the colour of the berries. The many uses to which Ibese attractive shrubs can be put will natarally suggest them, selves. They bear very pretty pure white. Heath-like blossoms, "which remaiu long in perfection, and, from their thorough hardihood and their dwarf and spreading habit of growth, they are peculiarly fitted to play an important part in winter-bedding arrangements, as they can ba lifted again in spring or in early summer with perfect safety, aud may be kept to any height or dimensions by means of pruning, or the plants can be renewed as readily by cuttings or layers. A charming mixture for a winter bed might ba provided by using these Pernettyas mingled with such plants as dwarf Box of different sorts, various forms of Eaonymus, Retinosporas, &o., and they are very effective as a front row to mixed shrubbery borders, as an lodging to a clump of shrubs, or planted for furnishing narrow borders. Tliey might also be employed for dwelling house and con. servatory decoration, though they are most at home in the open air. They are not particularly fastidious as to the matter of soil ; they will succeed in any ordinary ground free from lime, but of course would be benefited by the addition of a little peat, leaf.mould, or light fibrous loam — ingredients cot difficult to obtain ; only in poor Bandy soils should manure be used, and then it should be well decomposed. Complaints are sometimes made of Pernettyas not pro. duoing berries, and it is not at all uncommon to hear people say, " They don't bear berries with as." Mr. Davis finds there are breeds of Pernettyas that bear berries more freely than othets. At Hills, borough several varieties, such as floribunda, speciosa, and some seedlings from angustifolia, never show a berry. The common form of mucronata is aho a very shy fruiter, hardly ever showing a berry in the younger stages of its growth, and only a few at any time, while Mr. Davis states that very many of the new varieties he has raiaoJ are perfect masses of berries on plants only a few inches in height, and they continue to fruit bountifully year after year. It is said there is only one form of a white or blush-berried Pernettya in commerce, viz., P. Candida. This is considered to ba a distinct species j it is a shy grower and not very hardy, indeed, more suited for a pit or cold greenhouse than for exposure in the open air. — " Gardeners' Chronisle." NOTES FEOM PROGMORB. The Royal Gardens at Frogmore are always worth a visit ; even at this dull season of the year there is much to interest any one connected with horticulture, and many cultural hints to be gleaned. Frogmore is not remarkable for novelties, more reliance being placed on plants or seeds which have always given satisfaction than on new kinds which have not been fairly tested. Beginning with the fruit houses, we find pot Vines in profusion just showing their fruit, which will be ripe in March or April. They are grown without the aid of bottom heat, the plants being set on slate slabs surrounding a bed in the middle of the house. Other early houses of permanent Vines are being started, and Peaches aud A'ectarines are being brought on gradually. French Beans are grown in large quantities, both in shallow boxes placed on hot- water pipes at the back of the houses aud in the borders of Vineries. For the latter purpose the seed is sown in small pots and afterwards turned out into the borders on ridges of rich loamy soil about 2 ft. apart. Perhaps thus early in the season this plan is no better than that of growing them in pots on shelves, but where such quantities are required as is the case at Frogmore shelf room could not well be found for them ; and, moreover, the shelves near the glass are, through planting out the Beans, made available for Strawberries, the earliest of which are coming into bloom. Pine apples of the Smooth Cayenne type are grown here in excellent style, the fruits being large, well formed, and weighing about 7 lb. or 8 lb. each or more. The Grape room is filled with fine clusters of Lady Downes and large quantities of Black Alicante, and West's St. Peter's are still hanging on the Vines for present use. Seakale and Rhubarb are required in large quantities in the castle at Windsor, and every available space is now occupied by these esculents. Among other places turned to such account are the trenches round the Pine pits, into which fer- menting material is put for supplying heat. The Rhubarb and Seakale are planted on the top of the manure, and the whole is covered by means of hinged wooden shutters. Similar places to these might, in many gardens, be easily made round plant houses, the heat being supplied through sliding panels in the walls of the houses, aud if the shutters wore made portable, they might be easily removed and replaced by glass lights during summer. The ends of Mushroom houses, too, near which the boilers are set make excellent places in which to force Rhubarb and Seakale. Asparagus is forced in low span-roofed brick beds, heated by hot water and covered with wooden shutters, and in this w.iy good Asparagus is obtained from December onwards. Mushrooms, which are always plentiful at Frogmore are especially so now ; they are grown in sunken houses, each of which has four slate stages, running round them one above the other, two or three beds are made up at a time as they become vacant, and by this means a good succession is always maintained. Buttons only are used, and these are cut in quantity every morning. Plants are grown here chiefly for room decoration or for sup. plying cut blooms. Salvias are largely grown for the latter purpose, and also for furnishing specimens forantique vases in Windsor Castle, a purpose for which few other plants are so well adapted. They are struck from cuttings in spring and planted out in good soil out-of-doors in June. In September they are lifted and potted, and removed indoors as soon as the severity of the weather necessitates such an operation. They are placed in empty fruit houses or similar situations as near the glass as is convenient, in order to keep them dwarf and to prevent the leaves from falling off. The first to bloom is S. splendens ; this is followed early in the new year by S. Heeri, and when this is nearly over — in Mai'ch — S. gesnera^flora comes into bloom, and thus a succession of useful flowering plants is maintained from November till April. Eupatorium ageratoides is well grown, and is excellent for vases, &o. Cuttings of it struck in May and planted out during the summer, their shoots being stopped several times, make fine bushy plants for lifting in autumn to flower at Christmas. The blossoms are valuable for wreath making, as they are capable of being twisted into any desirable form. Habrothamnus elegans is grown effectively in pots for decorative purposes. Plants of it are struck from cuttings in spring, potted into small pots, Jak. 25, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 75 and kept indoors till the weather becomes mild, when they are planted out in the open ground for the summer. Their shoots are stopped several times during the growing season, and in autumn the plants are lifted and potted in 6-in. pots, and placed in the greenhouse, where they become bushy and hand- some, and bear a truss of blossom at the end of every shoot, causing the latter to arch in a graceful manner. Such plants are now coming into flower at Frogmore, where they are much prized for placing in vases and in rooms, or in the conserva- tory. ' C. W. S. NEW OR RARE PLANTS. B AMBUS A HETEROCTCLA. Thb strange Bamboo to which Mr. Carriere has given the above name, was in the Japanese garden at the Paris Bxhibi- Bambnea heterocycla ; l-isthof natural Eiz«. tion. It is a quaint-looking plant, remarkable for the oblique rings in diverse directions. It has almost exactly the foliage of B. aurea. W. B. Hemsley. SiK Beenakd Burke, being for a long time in search of a pedi- g;ree with reference to the Findemes, once a great family, having a seat in Derbyshire, sought for their ancient hall. Not a stone re- maiued to tell where it stood. He entered the church — not a single record of a Findeme was there ! He accosted a villager, hoping to glean some stray traditions of the Findemes. " Findemes," he said, " we have no Findemes here, but we have something that once belonged to them ; we have Findemes's flowers." " Show me them," he repUed ; and the old man led him into a fleld which retained faint traces of terrace and founda- tion. " There," said he, pointing to a bank of garden flowers grown wild, "these are Findemes's flowers, brought by Sir Geoffrey from the Holy Land." PLANT CULTURE IN MABKET GARDENS. PoiNSETTiAS. — During winter, these are the brightest- looking plants that come to the market. They are, how- ever, rather more difficult to cultivate than most market plants, owing to their liability to damp ofT in a young state. Mr. Reeves, of Acton, is considered the best cultivator of Poinsettias near London, and he devotes several large houses to their growth. The plants, which are grown as dwarf as possible in 5-in. or G-in. pots, are struck from cuttings taken from stock plants iu May and June, and inserted in 3^-in. pots. They are then plunged in bottom- heat in a close, warm house, and after a week or ten days have elapsed, are examined daily to ascertain if any of them have taken root. When this is found to be the case, the plants are immediately removed from the bed and placed on side stages of the houses, as, if left in bottom- heat after having rooted, they are apt to rot off close to the soil; in this position they remain until they have filled the pots with roots. They are then hardened ofi' a little and potted into 6-in. pots and placed in span-roofed houses in a light airj- position, where they remain to bloom. The plants are potted in good rich, sandy loam and leaf-soil, kept well watered, receive abundance of air, are allowed plenty of space to grow, and in December, January, and February they form plants about 12 iu. or 18 iu. in height, thickly clothed with healthy green foliage down to the pot, surmounted by brilliantly-coloured flower bracts ; and to see three or four houses, each 1.50 ft. in length, filled with. Poinsettias, all in bloom at one time, as we find them in some of the florists' establishments near London, is indeed a sight, the brilliancy of which cannot well be described. The double-flowered kind is, at present, not much grown for market ; but, when it becomes better known, its late-blooming qualities, together with the fact of its lasting in a cut state in perfection for several weeks, ^vill doubtless gain for it extensive culture. Dedizia gracilis. — This is one of the prettiest and easie.st grown of market plants, and one which is cultivated by all florists who have the means of forcing it into bloom early. Plants of it are obtained from cuttings of the half- ripened wood or by burying the bases of old plants several inches deep in sandy soil. The cuttings are placecf in small pots or pricked out in frames, and, when rooted, they are hardened off and planted out-of-doors in a border of rich sandy soil. Those which are layered are severed from the parent plants when rooted and treated afterwards the same as the cuttings. In the following spring, before they break into leaf, they are cut back to within three or four eyes of the base, and during the summer the soil between them is kept well stirred with the hoe and the strongest shoots are kept regularly pinched back. In autumn, if large enough for forcing, the plants are lifted and potted, and placed in a frame or a shed until wanted. They are then introduced a few at a time into the forcing house. Daily syringings and plenty of water at the roots quickly bring them into bloom, and after being hardened off by being placed for a week or so iu a cool house, they are fit for market. When grown for furnishing bloom in a cut state, old plants are cut back close to the pots every spring — an operation which causes them to push strong young shoots from the bottom. These, if well ripened, never fail to flower profusely their whole length, and thus form complete garlands of snow-white blossoms. Spie JiA JAPONICA (also called Astilbe japonica and Hoteia japonica) is, without doubt, one of the best market plants ever introduced. It was for some time grown as a hardy border plant, and as such received but little attention ; but 76 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1879. as scon as it was found that it would wiihstand forcing', it becatie a favourite market plant, its easy culture, tine appearance, and usefulness for window decoration, securing for it more extensive culture probably than that accorded to most other plants grown for market. As a rule, the roots are imported from Franco and Holland in autumn, and from Christmas onwards the market is kept well sup2jlied with it in a flowering state. Heat and abundance of water at the roots while growing are essential to its perfect cul- ture. Imported plants of it are by some considered indis- pensable, and for early forcing no doubt they are best, but that English-grown plants are equal in other respects is proved by the fact that Mr. Mailer, of Tottenham, who cultivates from 5,000 to 0,000 plants of it yearly, grows them on his own laud at Enfield, and more healthy and flori- ferous plants could not well be imagined. In spring, the old plants are parted, and planted out in good rich, moist soil in an open, sunny situation, where they ripen their crowns perfectly; they are taken up in the autumn, and firmly potted in 6-in. pots, kept copiously supplied with water at the roots, and as soon as the flower spikes appear the pots are placed in saucers in order to keep the roots perfectly moist. They are forced so as to come into flower from as early after Christmas as is possible until the end of May. Well-grown Spirwas of this class in the early part of the year fetch as much as 42s. per dozen, but, of course, as the season advances prices diminish considerably. Spik^A PALilATA is also grown for market, but not in such quantities as S. jajionica. It is, however, well looked after by some growers, and its jjuce-coloured flowers and I'alra-like, deep green foliage render it a very desirable plant, and one which would, no doubt, pay for more exten- sive cultivation could it be grown with as little trouble as S. japonica. It docs not, however, force well, as, if placed in much heat, it grows tall and lanky, and its blossoms are pale in colouT compared with those grown in a cooler temperature. Arum Lilies. — Few flowers are in greater demand in the market at certain seasons of the year than those of Richardia (Calla) asthiopica, or Arum Lily. They are used at Christmas and Eastertide for church decoration, and growers strain every nerve to get in a large supply at those times, as they then fetch highly remunerative prices. Mr. Reeves, of Acton, is one of the largest cultivators about London of this so-called Lily, and he grows his plants wholly in pots, thinking it loss trouble and altogether a better plan than that of planting them out-of-doors during the summer, a system practised by some cultivators. All young suckers that are found at the bases of flowering plants are removed and placed in shallow boxes, until they become established, when they are potted into their flowering pots, plunged in cold frames during the summer, kept well saturated with water at the roots, and moved indoors as may be required for forcing. Old plants from which the blooms have been cut are placed aside until their leaves have died down, when they are shaken out and all the toes, as they are termed, or fleshy lobes of the roots, are removed and placed in boxes to bo subjected to the same treatment as that just described in the case of suckers. A few weeks before Easter Mr. Reeves has several houses full of these plants, and their thousands of unexpanded, spear-like heads form an interesting sight ; but to see their white, trumpet-shaped blossoms fully developed is, to say the least of it, a grand spectacle. Arum Lilies in 5-in. pots, with two or three heads of bloom fetch from 12s. to 20s. per dozen early in the sea.ton, but later on they are «old at a much cheaper rate. P.^»"Jiardia maculata, another Arum Lily, is fast gaining popularity as a market plant. Its leaves, which are spotted with white, are equal to those of many of the DiefFenbachias, and the flowers, though not so large as those of R. sethiopica, are, nevertheless, quite equal to it in every other respect. This variegated kind requires a little more heat than the green-leaved sort, and it cannot be forced quite so readily. It is, however, an excellent room plant, and good dwarf plants of it in the market do not long remain unsold. C. W. S. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. EARLY RA.D1SHES. Everyone who possesses a garden, be it large or small, should endeavour to secure a few early Radishes. In the spring season a good Radish is most enjoyable, as it has then a better flavour and is more tender than during the hotter months of the year. In moist seasons Radishes are good the whole summer through, but in hot parching weather considerable difficulty is expe- rienced in obtaining a free, quick, succulent growth. Those who are fond of tbis esculent should therefore lengthen the season during which it is in use by commencing its culture early in the year. Early Radishes are best raised on hotbeds, but they may be grown both in cold frames and in the open ground. The earliest, will, of course, be grown on hotbeds, which should be prepared about the beginning of the year. Only a mild and gentle heat is needed, just sufficient to induce free germina- tion, and promote a healthy growth. A strong forcing tem- perature will have the effect of developing leaves at the ex- pense of the eatable portion. The seed should be sown upon 6 in. of ordinary light garden mould, covering it with some finely-sifted soil, and gently moistening it with warm water. As soon as the plants are above ground, ventilate as freely as the weather will permit, so as to secure stocky, sturdy growth. When the second leaf hdS been formed thin them out to about 3 in. apart which will allow room for their proper development. If sowings be made at intervals of a fortnight, during January and February, a good succession will be maintained until they are replaced by early outdoor crops. When sown in cold frames choose a sheltered but sunny situation, such as a well-drained border, and if the soil be not naturally very friable and rather light, some specially prepared mould should be put iu the frame. By covering up at night and ventilating carefully, these sowings will come in considerably in advance of those made in the open air and will be found very acceptable. To insure success in the opeu ground the soil should have received some previous preparation. It is of the utmost im- portance that it should be in a free, sweet, porous condition at the time of sowing the seed ; no method more effectually secures these conditions than throwing the soil up into sharp ridges early in the winter, or, better still, during the autumn months. Wind and frost then penetrate it and thoroughly pulverise it, so that when levelled and put into order for sowing, it will bo found to be in a good workable and friable state. The importance of this preparation of the soil for early crops is not, in a general way, fully realised, but it must be borne in mind that both germination and root-action are very sluggish at that time of the year. A dry, warm situation should be selected, sheltered, if possible, from east and north winds. Choose a day for preparing the seed-bed when the soil is iu a fairly dry condition. Mark out a bed 4 ft. wide, the length being at the discretion of the grower. Turn the soil over with a steel fork, breaking all the lumps, and finishing oil by raking it level. Sow the seed thicker than would be done later iu the season, so as to allow for losses. The bed should then be covered with straw, or some Hazel rods may bo bent over it and mats laid thereon. As soon as the plants appear above ground, the covering must be removed during the day and replaced at night. If strict attention be paid to this latter detail, a fair crop of early Radishes may be secured. Market gardeners grow a great many in this way, and they pay well for the extra labour bus expended on them. J. Cokneill. Jan. 25, 187). THE GAEDEN. VEGETABLE FORCING. AtTHOUGH, except in the gardens of the most wealthy, the early forc- ing of fruits is not carried oat to any great extent, every one who has the convenience of a few pits or frames essays to force some vegeta- bles, and with a little jadicioas management it ia astonishing bow many profitable nses such struotares may be turned to at this season, and what may be got out of them. If the pits happen to have a hot- water pipe along the front, no better plaoe can be hal for Asparagus and French Beans, the latter especially, as p'anted oat there they are in almost as good a position as when growing on open borders outdoors in the summer. Confioed to the limited area of a pot, with only a small portion of soil for their roots to feed on, they soon become exhausted and a prey to red spider ; bat planted oat in a bod, with a little fer- menting Tsaterial under them to afford slight bottom heat, there is no end to their bearing. The best for early work isOsborn's Forcing, i most prolific kind, not over-robust, and one that is well adapted for frame or pot culture. If grown in the former way, the rows should be planted about 15 in. apart, and the Beans 6 in. from each other in the rows, which will afford ample room for the sun and air to play be. tween, and thus insure a free setting of the blossoms. In preparing the hot bed, it is necessary that the manure and leaves be well mixed by turning them over a few times at intervals of two or three days, which will moderate the fermentation, and let oat the gases that are so in jarions to vegetation. This done, the mass will then be sweet and tic for ase, and should be trodden regularly and firmly in the frame that there may be no further sabsidence. The next thing is to place a few inches of leaf soil on the top, and then any light loam that may be at hand ; and when this has got a little warm, all is ready for planting. To save time, where any one has the accommo- dation of a stove or warm house, it is a good plan to sow and raise the Beans in small pots or boxes, and plant them out afterwards; and if this be done in leaf mould, they lift with such patches or tufts of roots that they scarcely feel the removal, but start away freely in the fresh soil as if nothing had happened to check their onward progress. As soon as they are planted, the top temperature should be kept as near 65' as can be by night, and from 70' to 80° by day, according to the state of the weather, as there is nothing gained in forcing by a high degree of heat, unless there ia light and sun in pro- portion, together with plenty of atmospheric moisture. This tnay be maintained by frequent syringings, which should always be done both morning and evening, whenever tho weather is bright. A frame made up in the way described is not only good for Beans, but it is just the place for Asparagas, roots of which may now be dugup, and the heads ready for cutting within a fortnight or three weeks afterwards. The best plants for forcing are those that made plenty of top last summer, and which are strong and vigorous, with well, developed crowns. In digging these up, it is very important that as many of the roots be preserved as possible, as it is principally on the organisable matter stored np in these that the plants have to depend till fresh feeders are formed to assist in pushing up the several heads or shoots so much prized, and which are looked on as such a delicacy at this season. Instead, therefore, of using a spade, as is generally done iu the operation of lifting, a steel fork should be made choice of, as with a tool of this kind the soil can b? worked away in a regu. lar and systematic manner, and the plants git out with little or no injury. As it is always desirable to make the most of the space nnder glass, the plants shoiM be packed as close as they can be got together; and, iu order to fill up the interstices between, tho best way is to scatter a little soil, when, by keeping the lights closed and darkened, the seeds will soDa germinate, and mu?t then have air to keep them from becoming drawn. As forced Carrots are U3ed as 8000 as they are about as large as Rddishes, they may be left to grow without much thinning, and by taking the mjst forward at eaoh pulling, r:>om iathen afforded for the others to come on. — " Field." THE INDOOR GARDEN. Tomatoes ia Winter.— Like llr. Gilbert (p. 45), I find Toma. toes to be a most useful addition to our supply of winter vegetables, and if such winters as the present were the rule instead of the «xception we should have to devote more space under glass to similar subjects. I find Vick's Criterion most useful for pot colture. It is beautiful in shipe and colour, and it sets and bears freely duringthe winter months. — J. Groom. Drumhead Sivoy. — I find this to be most valua'o'e this year for supplying a large amount of green vegetable food. In mild seasons, when Broccoli is procurable all the winter, Savoys, Kiile, and similar hardy greens are at a disCDunt, but now, when tender vegetables lie frost bitten and useless, hardy Savoys and Kile are appreciated. There is a g^neril inp^ession that Sivoysani similar greens are not fis for tible until after they hive been frozen, which, if cirreot, may acdunt for th-^ir exielleno^ now ; bit prjbibly their value ia more enhanced by the scarcity of other vegetables than anything else. — J. G. STOVE EUPHORBIAS. Bright-Coloured flowers in winter are always in request, and they are all the more valuable when of a persistent character like our stove Euphorbias. Two of the most useful and beat known are E. spleudens and E. jacquiniiuSora. The former is very easy to cultivate so as to have it in bloom in winter, when for bouquet making its flowers will bo very valuable mounted on wire. To secure a free-blooming winter habit, the plants should be moved to the greenhouse by the end of June or beginning of July, and be fully exposed to al! sunshine. IE turned out-of-doors for a fortnight or three weeks in August, and placed in a warm, sunny corner, no harm will be done, as such treatment seldom fails to insure an abundant bloom when moved back to tho stove. The long sprays of B. jacquinifeflora are well adapted for filling vases or other purposes of decoration ; and, for the supply of armfuls of sprays for cutting, it should be planted out in a moderately warm house, in a light position. It may be treated as a wall plant, or be trained up a rope, or be planted in a thicket over an old hotbed, iu a propagating house, or Melon or Cucumber pit; in short, it will do anywhere where it can have warmth and moisture to make its wood, and a drier atmosphere and plenty of light afterwards to ripen it. To grow it well in pots, the cuttings should be put in early in February, and be brought on in a warm house or pit near the glass. Starting them early permits of their being pinched back several times, thus securiug a base that will produce a good number of flower- ing shoots. By varying the times of pinching, the plants can be had iu bloom early or late, as required ; and, after the first blooms have been cut, other smaller shoots will push out below that will flower later on in the season. The plants are easily propagated in spring. Young shoots, from 2 in. to 4 in. long, taken with a heel of old wood and inserted round the sides of large 3 in. or 4| in. pots in sandy soil, and plunged in a brisk bottom heat, will quickly form roots, when they may be lifted out of the propagating bed, and as soon as hardened a little, be potted olf and returned to the bed again, to be grown on to obtain large specimens. The potfuls of cuttings may be shifted on into larger pots without singling them out. Old plants do not flower so well as young ones ; therefore few people care about saving plants beyond the second year, unless they are planted out aud trained up a wall or under a glass roof, and then, of course, they assume quite another character. E. splendens is also easily propagated by taking off side shoots with a little heel of older wood attached. As they are very milky, the wounds should be allowed to dry a few hours before putting them in. One of the best plans I know for pro- pagating this and similar plants is : after the exudation of tbesaplias stopped, and the wounds have become dry, thrust the ends of the cuttings into a warm, moist bed of sawdust. Cocoa nut fibre, or tan, where the temperature is about SO'^ or so. March is about the best time for taking off the cuttings. Loam and peat will grow these plants well, with a sprinkling of sand added, unless the loam be of a sandy character. I may say all cuttings rooted as I have suggested, in sawdust, must be lifted carefully out and potted as soon as the roots are formed. If delayed too long, the roots may get torn off in taking the young plants out. In such a bed most plants will root iu less lime than if placed in pots. E. Hobday. WIMIERING PLANTS IN" GLASS-FRONTED BUILDINGS. TuE description of a winter garden at Vienna (p. 12) reminds me of several structures of a similar character in which mis- cellaneous collections of plants used to be succ2s»fully wintered ; indeed, in one particular instance I remember being much im- pressed with the fresh, healthy appearance of the plants. This was in the Botanical Gardens at Tii'oingen, where a long structure with a closa roof and a high glass front like that of some of our old Orangeries was filled with a great variety of hard-wooded plants. They had, of course, been in the open air during the summer, but they evidently did not find their winter quarters disagree with them. Iq the Botanical Gardens 78 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 25, 1879. of Stuttgard, I saw a similar structure filled with the more hard-wooded kinds of stove plants, such as Palms and Pan- danads, and I must confess that I was astonished to see them so green and healthy. The fact is, one is apt to be deceived with respect to the amount of light which the interior of such structures receive during the winter months. My own observa- tions subsequently led me to the conclusion that the difference in the amount of light which would naturally exist between structures of this description and glass-roofed houses, was hardly in proportion to that experienced during the summer months. There is in the Villa Berg Gardens at Stuttgard a large Orangery, the front windows of which are some 10 ft. in height. The Orange trees were placed upon platforms at the back of the building, occupying about one-half of the area ; the remaining space was filled with New Holland and other plants, and shelves attached to the windows with flowering Primulas. The plants all kept well, and the Primulas and similar plants were, to all appearance, as good as those kept under a glass roof. When there was a glimpse of sun in midwinter, I noticed that it illuminated the greater portion of the interior, rendering it quite bright and cheerful. But the most noticeable fact in the afiiair, and one which I repeatedly observed, was that whilst the morning and evening sun shone into the Orangery, the winter gardens which flanked it were quite deprived of its influence. All three structures had the same aspect, but the sun being low in the horizon its rays easily shone in at the upright windows of the Orangery, whilst they failed to pene- trate the curvilinear roof of the glass houses. I then under- stood why plants should winter so well therein, and although I would, of course, prefer the convenience of a glass roof, I should have no hesitation in storing hard-wooded and any robust kinds of bedding plants in structures into which no light e ould be admitted through the roof, but the windows should be high, very light, and kept perfectly clean. The upper portion of the sashes should open the whole length of the building, so as to insure a free circulation of air without draught, and as there i s no drip, and the windows are protected with wooden shutters, there will scarcely ever be need to make a fire. The almost entire absence of fire-heat, which, when applied, always exer- cises a more or less stimulating and, consequently, prejudicial effect on plants which should be kept quite cold, induces in bedding plants a complete state of rest, and, when turned out in the spring, they will be found to be very hardy. Ihave beeninduced to make these remark8,believingthat they may prove of interest to some who, being, perhaps, deficient in regard to glass space, may possess, and would willingly utilize, some such structure as I have described. In their interest, mainly, I have written, although there are few places, large or small, where storage is not a consideration, and even if there hoald be any hesitation in trusting soft-wooded plants in such places, there need not be the slightest fear of hard-wooded kinds being injured by a winter residence therein. J. Cornhill. HEATING AND VENTILATING IN COLD WEATHER. Mb. Fish has done well in calling attention (p. 30) to thia sabjeot for of all the waste of force that takes place in gardens daring winter that of the loss of heat is generally one of the greatest. It frequently occurs that as soon as those in charge of the fires see a little frost in the morning they rush to the stokehole and heap on fuel, be the sky ever bo clear, and by so doing manage, by the time the sun is well up., to get the pipes so hot that tho two together render the tem. psrature so high as to be almost unbearable. Then air is given in abundance, chilling the plants and letting out the atmospheric moia- tare so essential to keep them in health. Now, giving air in the dead of winter, except during exceedingly mild weather and where houses are more than usually close glazed, is a mistake, as, in the generality of cases, there is more than sufficient passes in through the laps of the glass and other places, the tendency of heated air being to ascend continually and the cold to rush in to displace it. The very fact of having the interior of a house warmer than outdoors causes ventila- tion through the motion which it imparts, and as it is of a more regular and gradual kind than that obtained by letting down the lights, it is much better in every respect. If we can only draw in solar heat a certain amount of fuel is saved, and it is more congenial to the plants than that obtained from pipes or by any other artificial means. With plenty of light, as there always is when the Bun shines, it matters little about the thermometer ranning up 10° or 15* higher than usual, and by watching the weather and getting the sun to aid us we can always husband our forces and in that way save fuel. I always endeavour to impress on those in charge of the fires to keep them in abeyance till they see how the day is likely to turn out, when, if dull and cold, they are moved on slowly to reach the maximum of heat allowed by about 1 or 2 o'clock, after which they gradually fall away again for the night. If the sun be likely to break out they are stopped so as to keep the pipes as cool as possible till towards the afternoon, when they are started so as to meet the falling temperature and prevent it from going too low suddenly, thus making the best use of the light. Excess of artificial heat is one of the main causes of plants being infested with insects, and more particularly is this the case if attended by excessive dryness, a sure forerunner of thrips and red spider. Even if plenty of moisture can be kept up leaves become thin and flimsy, and especially is this so as regards Vines and Peaches forced early, while as to flowers obtained under such condi. tiona, they are of the most fugitive character, and soon fade if cut from the plants. Not only is there a great waste of heat by having the fires going when they should not be, and the ventilators open to let it out, but much loss arises by letting the warmth that should be confined about the boiler escape up the chimney, instead of being expended in imparting heat to the water. If, instead of ashpit doors being wide open, and dampers out, the former were closed and the latter pushed nearly in, combustion would go on at a slow rate, thus making the fnel last doable the time it does when a great rush of air passes through the furnace. This not only carries the heat with it in its coarse, but helps to cool the several parts as it travels on to the shaft, to which it speeds its way at a rate of which few have any conception. Of course a certain amount of draught is necessary to get the fuel alight and a clear fire going, but, once this is effected, the object should be to keep its strength and energy about the boiler, and there get as much out of It as possible. The damper and ashpit door give one full control, and if coke, breeze, or cinders be used with the coal in about equal proportions the flaes do not become foul sa quickly as they do when the latter alone is burned, the tendency of the dense smoke being to cause a tarry deposit to form, which, when it becomes thick and coated with soot, is almost impervious to heat. S. D. Early .forced Lilacs. — There are few plants that are forced into bloom much beyond their ordinary flowering season that are mora generally appreciated than Lilacs. Although one of the easiest plants to force, there is considerable difference in the time which different varieties take to produce blooms fit for the flower basket, more especially very early in the season. 1 have placed plants of several varieties, for cutting from at Christmas and onwarJp, in heat, as soon as they had shed their leaves, and I found that the Persian kind was in full bloom before such large- flowering kinds as Charles X. had scarcely begun to expand. Later in the season the difference was not so marked, but, as a rule, the kinds with small, slender, twiggy growths submit most readily to the qnickening inflaenoe of heat, but after this season of the year large bushes of the common Lilac, taken up with good balls of earth and placed in the gentle heat of a Vinery or Peaoh house, answer perfectly. If required with white or blanched flowers light must be excluded from them, or else they must be forced very rapidly in a strong heat, which has the effect of producing the flowers so quickly that they contain no colouring matter. — J. Groom, Linton. Monstera deliciosa in. Water. — This interesting Arai is never seen to thorough advantage, unless it is so placed that the roots have free access to fresh, pure water. There was formerly a very fine specimen in the Garden de la Muette at Paris. It was planted out near a water-tank in one of the plant structures, the stems turn, ing round and covering an old tree stem, and the roots descending into the water below. It never had, I believe, any shade afforded it, pure air being left on the house daring the summer, and an Inter, mediate temperature only maintained in the winter. When I saw the plant, in August, It was completely studded with its cone-like fruit, and certainly presented a highly ornamental appearance. When grown in hot, moist stoves, this Monstera develop3 rapidly, and its singalar foliage, together with the qaalnt forms which it often assumes, strike the nnlnltiated with wonder. High temperature and dense ahade are, however, by no means necessary for its welfare ; it enjoys a light, somewhat airy position, and when so placed it assumes a more shrubby, compact, short-jointed habit, and may be utillsei for the decoration of apartments, corridors, &o. It should always find a place in sub-tropical arrangements, appearing, as It doss, quite Jan. 25, lb7d.] THE GARDEN. 79 happy in sheltered nooks, althongh moat eSectiTe when plaosd near water marginB. — J. C, Byfleet. QUISQUALIS INDICA. This sweet-scented stove climber, adverted to in a recent number o£ The Garden, is far less cultivated than it deserves to be. It belongs to the Natural Order Combretacese, though very unlike the also far too little known Combretum purpureum. Both species, however, rank amongst the most beautiful of climbers. In colour it is a sort of orange-red, also a delicate pink, sometimes almost a white in the shade. This wide range of colour adds much to the beauty and usefulness of the flowers. By gathering them singly, and placing them in the dark in water, they lose most of their colour, but, fortunately, none of their inimitable [sweetness. A downy-leaved variety, ^ -. ^ § ,C^ Qaisqualis indica. called pubescens, was also introduced from Java about the same time ; and two other Quisqualis, viz., glabra and villosa, are also occasionally met with in botanic gardens. Quisqualis sinensis, a rose-coloured species, was introduced from Canton in 1841 ; but it seems to have made but little way in culti- vation, though it would probably do well in a conservatory. Quisqualis indica is, however, the favourite ; and, being all that can be desired in a plane of this description — freegrowing, continuous-flowering, fragrant, and easily grown in a mixture of peat and loam — it is hardly worth while to collect other varieties. We have scarcely a plant more useful, or one more popular, or generally admired than a fine specimen of Quis- qualis indica on the roof of a small stove ; it is generally in flower from May to November. D. T. Fisu. THE FRUIT GARDEN. PRUNING ORCHARD TREES. It is proverbial that doctors disagree, and doubtless many who read gardening papers come to a pretty correct conclusion that gardeners disagree quite as much, and on no subject more than on pruning. Probably nineteen out of twenty, i£ consulted, would say that certain trees needed pruning ; and forthwith, armed with saw or pruning-hook, one half of the tree is cut away with results which, if satisfactory, are attri- buted to the pruning ; if the reverse, to the season. Spring frosts always account satisfactorily for the absence of fruit, but many other minor reasons for its non-appearance exist, and some of these are doubtless attributable to haphazard pruning. The best trees as regards fruit bearing I have ever had are those that have been pruned the least. Standard fruit trees, if taken in time or looked over annually, only require central branches that cross each other to be cut away and the leading shoots shortened when young. In fact, in this neighbourhood, where Apples are grown extensively and bear enormous crops, the rule is to keep the centre open and let the outer young growth form as near as possible an umbrella- shaped head. Hard cutting of old or neglected trees is looked upon as worse than letting them alone, as old trees, like old people, do not recover from the effects of excessive amputation so readily as younger ones. Cutting off the annual growths of espalier, pyramid, or bush trees that have been continuously so treated is quite another matter, as if skilfully managed they are both ornamental and seviceable adjuncts to any garden. It is, however, to standards that we must look for our main crops, and I would strongly recommend any one having trees in an over-crowded state to cut out any dead wood, or small weakly growth that they may contain, but by no means to saw off large branches. Mulch the roots with good manure, see that birds do not destroy the blossom buds, and await the result. In this neighbourhood, where the ground is very much undulated, aspect has a more important bearing on the crop than in level districts. The orchards most noted here for constant bearing are those that slope to the south-west or west, as they do not catch the sun's rays until the blossom has become thawed and partially dry after the usually short sharp visitations of frost in spring. Much might be done in the way of shelter by planting a belt of evergreen trees on the eastern side of orchards to break the force of winds as well as to catch the destructive early rays of the sun. I may also remark that many of our very best Apples and Pears are wholly unsuited for orchard culture : therefore, if some of the pruning usually given to fruit trees were be- stowed on the lengthy catalogues of varieties that puzzle and bewilder intending planters real good would be the result. In every county in which I have yet lived, some special kinds appeared suited to the district, and planters will as a rule find such kinds to fill their fruit rooms better than all the first class certificated sorts that have ever been sent out. Linton, Maidstone. J- Geoom. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana.— Thia is a very naetal win- ter flowering plant, and although generally grown in a stove, in it, many of the shoots so reduced will mike no growth at all the en. suing summer. It would be found much better if such plants a» these were grown in considerable numbers in every establishmentr where choice flowers are in demand, rather than cultivating quantities of p'ants very inferior in their general usefulness to them. Oranges. — Where these are treated SDas to keep them in a healthy, vigorous, thriving condition, furnished with plenty of good deep green.coloured foliage, although old-fashioned, they are amongst; the most effective and useful subjects that can be introduced into a> large conservatory, bearing fruit in different stages of development for a great portion of the year, and producing plentifully fljwers alike acceptable for the odour they give to the structure they are in, and also for cutting. There is one drawback to their cultiva. tion, with which those who have hid to deal with them in most cases will have become unpleasantly acquainted, their liability to the attacks of some of the worst insects that prey upon cultivated plants, particularly brown and white scale. Where the latter exists on large specimens it is impissibls to keep them in heilth without continual attention. Njw whiUt they aredormint an effjrt should be male to get these pests well ua lor; thsy miy bjaltogether erjduatei Jan. 25, 1879.] THE GAIIDE]S\ 89 by repeated dipping or syringing with strong inseotioide, bat to ac. oompiiah this it will often be found necessary to sacrifice the flowers for a season, as the continued washing with a solution suffi- ciently strong to destroy these most difficult of all insects to kill, fre- quently has the effect of stopping the deveIopm°nfc of the bloom bads, but the loss of a season's flower will prove to be well compen. sated for by the improved after condition of the plants and the great saving in labour. In small conservatories a few medium-sizod plants of the ordinary sorts of Orange will associate well with Camellias, and the small-growing Otaheite kind thit frnits so freely when not more than 12 in. or 15 in. high will be found suitable for standing in vases on brackets, or other prominent positions in either large or small houses, Correas. — Amongst smaller-flowering.hardwooded plants that keep on blooming for a considerable time, and are well adapted for con- servatory decoration, are several of the varieties of Correa, of which may be mentioned C. cardinalia, C. Brilliant, and C. bioalor. The blooms last long on the plants, and, hanging gracefully as they do from tbe small slender branches, will he very useful ia combinations of cut flowers. General Keeping. — Complete order as to 'the cleanliness of the pots, tubs, and boxes wherein plants are grown, as well as the floors, stages, &o., in all houses is quite as essential to render them attrac- tive as it is to secure the healthy condition of the occupants, and at no time or place is there a greater need for this than in conserva- tories during winter. By continual attention to this matter much better results will follow at an absolutely less expenditure of labour than where a general overhanling ia made from time to time, and in the intervals doing little in this direction. Greenhouse. Kalosanth.es. — There are few more nseful plants than these for general decorative purposes, and coaling in, as they do, in the middle of summer, when comparatively few plants are in bloom, coupled with the fact that they can be either made to do duty in conser- vatories, halls, corridors, rooms, or any place where flowering plants are required, makes them doubly serviceable. They will grow in almost any description of soil — peat or loam — the principal essen- tials to their free blooming being that the summer growth ia thoroughly ripened and that the plants are kept now in the lightest position available, with their heads close to the glass. From their free disposition to root they can be propagated at any time of the year. If cuttings are put in at once time will ba gained, as, if sub- sequently fairly treated, good blooming plants may be had in eighteen months. Cattiogs can be got from any established plants, selecting the strongest shoots that are not going t < flower, which will be easily discernible, putting three or four together in small pots in eandy soil and placing them anywhere where the temperature is a little above that of an ordinary greenhouse, but not enclosed under a bell glass or propagating frame, which, in their case, is unneces- sary. Moderate-sized plants in from 8-in. to 10. in. pots are the most serviceable. Those that are intended for flowering the ensuing summer should now have their shoots regulated with a few stakes and ties just saffioient to keep them in an erect position. Boronias. — Than these in the shape of small and moderate-sized plant?, there is nothing more elegant in habit, or more suitable for grpfnhouse and conservatory decoration; the length of time they «ill last ia bloom — three or four months — is an advantage. B. Drnmmondi and B. pinnata will be now coming into flower, and will keep on bloo ning through the winter and spring. B. elatior and B. megastigma, comparatively new kin Is, are both beautiful, and B. Berrulata, later in its flowering, is mist desirable on account of ita perfume ; a smiU plant in a 6-in. pot will agreeably scent a large House. If a few of these plants are grown for interspersing about the greenhouse or conservatory, their distinct drooping habit will do much to relieve the over-sameness of Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and the like. If kept in a low temperature at this time they are rather subject to mildew, but if accommodated with 10' in the night and a rise of a few degrees in the daytime, they are not liable to suffer in this way. ChorOzamas.^For a like purpose in giving variety, these will be found of very easy growth, producing for a considerable time their brilliant flowers in profusion. If a few varieties, such as C. oordatum splendena, C. variam Chandleri, and C. variam nanum, are grown in moflerate-sized pots, they will do good service through the spring mouths. Their healthy green foliage is little subject to the attacks of insects, except red spider. These plants will bear keeping cooler than the Boronias ; the small amount of tying they need should now be done. Epiphyllutns. — The presence of the atronger.growiogand larger- flowering kinds of Epiphyllums, now so seldom seen in greenhouses, is much missed. The grotesque habit of the plants is worth taking into account, and the brilliance of their Bowers has no equal. There is little trouble involved in their culture, and they will bear compara. tive neglect and still succeed, provided a few details are not lost sight of. Plants that have had their growth well matured during the summer, which is essential to their flowering, by exposure to all the sun possible, should now be kept at tbe warmest end of the green- house with very little water at the roots, only just enough to prevent them shrivelling too much, for if, whilst subject to a somewhat low temperature, the soil in which the small amount of roots they make exists is at all over moist, the fibres will rot, to whioh cause may be often attributed their not blooming freely. E. Aokermanni, E. ore. natum atro-sanguinenm, E. speoiofissimum, and E. speciosum su- perbum are much more deserving of cultivation than many of the weedy subjects that now find favour. Plants of E. truncatum in- tenc'ed for late flowering to cone oa with just warm greenhouse treatment must likewise not have too much water at tbe roots until the advancing season affords more warmth. Statices. — The long-continued production and enduring nature of the flowers of these, combine J with their cilonr aud distinct cha- racter, make them more deserving of general cultivation than they receive. As it is, they are much more confined to those who grow plants for exhibition than for home decoration ; whereas if they, and such as the before-mentioned plants, are allowed a p'ace amongst the softer-wooded greenhouse subjects usually met with, a much more effective combination is produced than where they are absent. Statices are strictly greenhouse plants, but, at this time of the year, they should be kept in a temperature of from 40' to 45° in the night, as, unlike many other hard-wooded plants, they are never absolutely at rest, growing slowly through the winter ; their roots are also con- tinuously active ; consequently, even at this s^asf n, they require the Boil to be kept a little more moist than for most plants. There is one point in their cultivation that requires attention : the old leaves, as the gradually decay, do not fall off as in tbe case of the generality of plants, but hing dead upon then, anJ, if not removed when in this state, they are apt to go mouldy, and sometimes destroy the shoots to which they are attached. Pot Boses. Tea Roses in pots grown out-of-doors in summer and treated with the intention of h<»ving them well furnished with buds in the autumn, and then placed in a greenhouse temperature to enable the full de- velopment of these outdoor formed buds without much fire-heat, which they will do up to the close of the year, will now need to be managed with a view to their doing service in a like manner next autumn, for, when required to produce flowers in this way there should be no attempt to force them on so as to make further growth and bloom after they have borne the first crop ; but they ought not, as is frequently done, to be turned out for some time yet into cold frames where the soil about their roots will be liable to get frozen, unless precautious are taken to prevent this, as such treatment would affect their now more or less active roota and interfere with the growth they are expected to make during the summer. They should be put in a house or pit where there ia tbe means of excluding frost, and any pruning that may be necessary it is better to carry out at once, allowing them to remain here until the spring, by which time their young shoots will begin to move, and whatever potting is needed can be done, and when the season is past for any frost likely to injure them, they may be turned oat.of-doora where they are to remain for the summer with their pots plunged in ashes. Where there is an attempt to supply Roses all the year rouni, pUnts thus treated fill an important place, their bloom coming in before thatof those subjected to more heat, but if they are to increase in size aud vigour as ia desir- able, they mast even now, after flowering, be oared for in a manner different from the rough usage to which they are often submitted when their blooming ia over. — T. Baines. Flower Garden. Tbe first frost which commenced early in December and continued to the 26ch of that month, caused but little apparent injury, doubt- less on account of the snow covering and compiratively calm state of the atmosphere, bat the second frost, accompanied as it was with strong north-easterly winds, attacking vegetation full of moisture, after the rapid thaw, with which the first frost disappeared, has been most disastroas to what of late we have beea wont to term hardy plants. Eucalyptus globulus is killed to the ground; Fhor. mium tenax is much injured; Australian Dracajnas are, I fear, quite killed. OE evergreens the Japanese Euonymus, Laurustinus, and common Laurels are the only shrubs that at present seem injured, aad of these none are seriously hurt, but it ia rather a puzzle to know how it happens, that whilst these so-called hardy plants have 90 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1879. suffered Chamaerops Fortnnei, Camellias, and Skimmias should have escaped, aa they certainly have done here. Plants of doubtful hardiness should still have the needful protection applied. Mulchings of stable litter at the base of the plants or over the beds in which they grow is a sure preservative of them to the gronnd line. All Roses should have such a mulching. The frost has quite upheaved many small jlants, especially hardy kinds that were split np in autumn ^for next Bummer's bedding arrangements. Sedums, Saxifrages, Sempervi- vu-fls, Mints, Arabis, &o., will, now the frost has gone, require to be pressed firmly into the gronnd, and spring flowers of every descrip- tion require the same attention. The tenderer kinds of bulbs will need C(jvering in severe weather, which can readily be done with evergreen branches, or with mats supported on hooped sticks, the ends of the mats being pegged to the turf. Beds of Cannas will be sure to suffer this winter, especially if not well drained ; it will, therefore, be well to divide any plants that have been wintered under cover, and place in gentle warmth. Seeds of them, too, sown now will make good plants for putting out at the end of May. Soak the seeds for a couple of days previous to the sow- ing, and germination will take place immediately. Acacia lophantha, one of the moat graceful and effective of sub-tropical plants should also be sown now in order to have good plants for putting out iu May. Another fortnight will be sufficiently early to sow Solanums, Ricinus, Wigandias, Ferdinandas, and other free growers, as they are apt to get pot-bonnd and 'stunted before planting time when sown too early. Pelargoniums that were not propagated in sufficient quantity in the autumn should now receive attention ; three cuttings in a 3-in. pot make fine plants for turning out into the beds without division. They strike freely at this season on a dry, warm shelf in a Pine stove. Peach house, or Vinery, where there is a minimum temperature of 55.° As bedders the following are amongst the very best, viz., tricolor Sophia Damaresque, bronze or zoned Rev. W. F. Radclyffe, and white variegated May Queen. These three varieties, with the addition of the sweet-scented and variegated Lady Plymouth, are the cream of all the variegated bedding Pelar- goniums ; they are compact in growth and contrast well with such plants aa Coleus, Iresine, and Amarantns. When the weather is open trench and dig all beds and borders that are vacant, and each bed should have manure proportionate to the requirements of the plants intended to grow in it. Calceolarias, Verbenas, Violas, and all sub- tropical plants can scarcely have too much. Pelargoniums flower best when the soil is poor, but the beds should be deeply trenched with the view of resisting drought. Well roll all walks immediately after a thaw, they will dry off hard and smooth, but if left till dry the roller makes little impression on them. Complete re-gravelling or re-surfacing and turning walks as the weather permits, in order that they may get consolidated before a drier period arrives. The same remark applies to lawns, which at this season can hardly be rolled too much. — W. W. Auriculas. — These have been still further reduced in size by the second severe frost, and they are now more completely at rest than I have ever before seen them. It has been necessary to go over the plants again and carefully remove decaying leaves and other ex- traneous matter, and to press the mould where it has been much loosened round the plants. Prepare compost for surface-dressing, an operation which must be done as soon after February 1 as the state of the weather will permit. I generally reserve a portion of the compost that was prepared for Hyacinths, which contains about one. fourth of its bulk of rotten cow manure. To this I add about as much more cow manure, and then I find it to be a most excellent dressing. The surface soil must be removed down to the first roots ; indeed, it is as well to remove as much of it as possible without in. juring any roots j then add the compost, pressing it in firmly. Carnations and Picoteaa. — The weather has been very trying for plants of these, possessing a delicate constitution, that were planted out-of-doors late in the autumn. I find that saoh plants will not even live out-of-doors near London unless the precaution be taken to place a glass protector over them ; it is not the cold nor even severe frosts alone that cause the injury, but continued wet combined with frost. A good plan is to place bell-glasses over the plants, but they must be raised about 1 in. or u.ore from the ground to permit a continued circulation of air. It is worthy of note that growers of these flowers for exhibition as far north as Newcastle- npon-Tyne succeed remarkably well with plants put out in beds in the autumn. They use, of course, a good free porous compost, the beds are well mulched with dry, rotten manure, and the plants are held in their places by a neat stick. Hardy Cloves and others in open borders must be looked over, and loose plants secured in their places ; they will not succeed if the roots be not made sufficiently steady to withstand a gale. Hollyhocks. — These cannot be propagated lo freely as Dahlias ; therefore it is desirable tp begin early. When a Dahlia root is lifted in autumn there are no signs of any growth from the base of the stems, but with Hollyhocks the case is different ; many of these will have a tuft of growths round the base of the stem, and if the plants have been in a house from which frost has been excluded, some of these may now be taken off, and either be inserted in sandy soil as cuttings, or they may be grafted on to bits of healthy roots. In either case care is requisite in watering, as they are liable to damp off, especially in a damp hotbed ; the best place for them is a close frame inside a forcing house, with bottom-heat supplied from hot. water pipes; each cutting or grafted root should be inserted singly in a small pot, and the pots should be 'plunged in moderately damp sand. Keep the frame close at first, and apply water sparingly, but not over the leaves. Fansies. — Those in pots in frames have made no progress, but advantage must be taken of fine weather when it comes to push the plants into active growth, as the principal object of growing the plants in pots is to have an early bloom. See that no insect pests are allowed to remain upon the leaves ; a reddish-coloured aphis, to the attacks of which they are liable, will quite spoil them if not immediately destroyed. Red spider can stand more cold than some imagine, and will make its appearance with the first mild sunny weather. Slugs will also eat out the incipient flower buds. Primula cortusoides amcena and its varieties frequently Buffer from neglect at this season ; the crowns push early, bat they will not become very strong it the roots are allowed to become too djy. See that they are kept fairly moist. Oar plants are in cold frames at present, and the pots are plunged in Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. Aquilegias, such as A. ccerulea, A. alpina, A. chrysantha, A. glandulosa, A. oalifornica hybrida, and A. ccerulea hybrida, are all grown in pots and cultivated in the same frame with a few species of Primula. The leaves of all of them are liable to the attacks of red spider, and they can be treated to keep this peat in check when grown together. Tulips. — These are now appearing aboveground, and in cold, wet districts it is necessary to place some covering over the beds to throw off superfluous wet and to protect the plants from severe frost. Growers for exhibition in the midland counties have strong iron hoops bent over the beds, which are kept in position by connecting rods of iron. These are covered with mats or stout canvas only when the weather is severe. Any covering left over the plants in fine weather tends to weaken them. I have not yet found it necessary to protect oar beds near London at this season. When the leaves are dry frost does not seem to injure them, but if water be collected by the leaves and a severe frost occurs danger is to be apprehended. — J. Douglas. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — Early forcing is a difficult and slow operation this season ' and such it must continue to be so long as cold weather lasts. Con" tinuoua hard firing is in the highest degree debilitating to the Vines 5 so, for the present, low night temperatures should be the rule, aud forcing should be done by a slightly increased day heat. Such increase of warmth is imperatively necessary where the Vines are advancing towards the flowering stage ; but, where the buds are as yet nnex. panded, make no advance in temperature till a favourable change in the weather takes place. Outside borders should be well protected in order to prevent them from being chilled by snow or hijavy rains, and, if fermenting material be used for increasing the temperature of the soil, great care will be required to prevent over'aeating. Early Vinery borders should all be inside where Grapes have to be ripe in April and May. All Grapes now on the Vines should noirbe cut and stored iu a dry room, for, if not done soon, a recurreice of mild weather will at once put the sap in motion, and two evils wiU be the result, viz., the Vines will bleed by being pruned so late, and the Grapes will burst as soon as they are put into the bottles of water. When the pruning is done, thoroughly cleanse the houses and Vines by rubbing off any loose bark, and painting them with the usual composition, both as a preventive against and remedy for insect pests. The borders should then be renovated by clearing off all the surface soil, working it out from the roots with hand-forks and re. placing it with the best loam that is to be had, with which should be mixed a liberal allowance of i-in. bones and wood-ashes or charcoal, the whole being pressed firmly about the roots. For the present, guard against exciting the Vines into activity by keeping the house as cool as possible, a month's real rest being more beneficial than twice that amount of uncertain rest. Peaches and Nectarines. — These are most impatient as regards artificial heat, and hard firing proves fatal to them, therefore be con- tent with a slow adv.ance till daylight is longer and sunshine proba- ble, when a push can be made with greater certainty of attaining Jan. 25, 1879.] THE GAEDEN. 91 snooesa. Any in flower should be artificially fertilised to insare a good Bet. An active boy, with a camel.hair pencil, will do thonsands of blosaoms in an hour. The atmosphere shonld now incline to the dry side, and a chink of air be constantly kept on, but guard against the slightest current of cold air, which soon shrivels up any blossoms with which it comes in contact. Houses now being started should have the borders examined as to moisture ; if dry soak them well with tepid water. Outside borders should have sufficient protection to exclude frost, snow, and cold rains, but artificial warmth is neither necessary nor desirable. Let late houses have the necessary pruning and cleansing on the first opportunity, and induce effectual rest by keeping the temperature at the lowest point commensurate with the future well-being of the trees. Figs. — Usually the earliest of these are produced by means of pot culture, and with liberal treatment both as to attention and feeding, good returns can be had by this mode of growing them. The embryo fruit of those that were introduced into warmth in Novem- ber will now be slowly developing, and if the drainage be open water will be required most days, for, it after this stage the plants are allowed to become dry, the worst results may be anticipated. If the plants ba plunged in a bed of Oak leaves (the beat heat-producing medium for them), care must be exercised that the heat does not become excessive ; 70' should never be exceeded, and the moment the roots protrude out of the bottom of the pots dispense with bottom heat entirely. A moist atmospheric temperature, averaging 55' by night and 70' by day, is necessary for plants at this stage of growth. Where the trees are planted out in inside borders, which is the best plan, such borders should at once have the needful annual dreasing. If confined within reasonable limits, and such is necessary for fruitfulnesa, it will be impossible to give them too rich a top dressing. Rich loam, well-decayed cow manure, and lime scraps, in about equal proportions, constitute the best materials for this purpose. Water with tepid water to consolidate the dressing about the roots, and the house may then be closed, but fire heat should not be applied for a fortnight longer. Winter pruning of Figs 13 rarely necessary if summer pinching has been regularly carried ont, but to prevent crowding it may be desirable to out out any straggling, spurless, or eyeless shoots when the trees are being over- hauled for their winter dressing. Sti-awberries. — Those in flower should have the pollen distribnted daily, and air given freely whenever the air outside is free from froat. Keep the planta reasonably moist, and avoid splashing the flowers with water. As soon as the fruit is set, thin it out to six or at most eight fruits to each plant, after which manure water may be given twice a week. Successional batches of plants should be placed in warmth fortnightly in order to keep up a continuous succession of fruit till open air crops are ripe. As a rule, about three dozen plants put into warmth fortnightly will ensure a modeiate succession of fruit. Shelves for plants that are to remain in the one position till their fruit is ripe, may have a coating of horse droppings or turf cut the width of the shelf, and laid Grass side downwards ; into this the roots soon find their way, and much labour is saved, as water is not so frequently required as it otherwise would be. The plan has one drawback only, and that is, the drainage sometimes gets choked, a matter easily avoided. Fines. — Under the present unpropitions state of the weather, the rearranging and potting of Pines are impossible, but advantage must be taken of the first mild weather to accomplish these operations, as it is import vut that fruit now showing should have a bottom heat of 85,° and this cannot be maintained until a renewal or addition of fresh leaves or ton, as the case may be, is made to the bed. Till such extra bottom ^eat can be applied, do not increase the atmospheric tempera- ture, as both ehonld be advanced simultaneously. As to watering, look oi'rt'- lie plants every week, and when strong fires have to be kept going, twice a week may be requisite, especially in the case of plants near the pipes.. Atmospheric humidity is a necessary element in Pine culture, but requires judgment in the application; it should never be applied to such an extent that the condensation drops like rain into the hearts of the plants. The state of the outside air should afford some guide in this matter. All should bear in mind that an atmosphere continually surcharged with vapour is j ust as inj urions as a dry one, and this may lead to the adoption of measures to avoid either extreme. Melons. — Do not be in a hurry to plant these ont. At this early season there is little danger of their being pot. bound, and the plants will make better progress if kept on shelves near the glass for another week or two than planted out. The soil should be got in to admit of its getting warmed through thoroughly. Moderately stiff loam, without any admixture whatever, is best, and if fresh dug from the pasture all the better. It should be well pounded when put in the bed, and the lighter the soil the harder shonld it be made. Make another sowing in the manner recommended in a previous calendar. — W. W. Storing Ice. — Mr. Dennis's icehouse (p. 59) will be found to be an excellent one ; but as many do not possess suoh a structure I would suggest the following method of storing ice, which I have seen practised, and which will be found to be a very easy and simple plan. A foundation of faggots was laid so as to admit of the water passing readily away, and upon this was thrown the ice, which was pounded as small as possible. Faggots were then used to keep the stack together; they were supported by stakes driven into the ground, and between them and the ice straw and sawdust were placed to keep out the air. When the heap had attained tha required height, a quantity of leaves, then a layer of straw and faggots, or boards, constituted a covering. The ice kept nearly as well and as long in this way, as that within a structure similar to the one recommended by Mr. Dennis.— J. S. T. Garden Labels. — Everyone knows the necessity of having plants in gardens properly named, and in order to do this effectoally it is equally necessary labels should be used on which the names can be legibly written ; this can of course be done, as it usually is on wood, terra cotta, zinc, and the like, but then the writing soon becomes obliterated. We saw, however, the other day a label which seemed to be an improvement on existing kinds as regards durability. It was made of prepared green paper or parchment, neat in shape and ap- pearance, and on which the writing could be distinctly seen, and which latter never becomes obliterated until the label is thoroughly worn out. These labels, which are made by Messrs. Tebbs, are exteneively used in the gardens at the Poles, near Ware, where they are highly spoken of for use in Orchid houses or other damp places, as well as out-of-doors. It is also stated that after having placed them under water for a day or two the writing was nuinjured, and the label as firm and good as before. — S. Market Gardening and Want of Market Accommodation. — "A MarketGardener " writes to us ("Pall Mall Gazette") as follows :— Your note on the dearness of vegetables is accurate enough, bat the suggestion to farmers to take np market gardening requires consideration. In the first place, the high cultivation required in market gardening demands a very large iccrease of capital, which not every farmer has at his disposal. In the next place, one of the main causes of the high price of vegetables is the cost of their con- veyance to markets, on the one hand, and the difficulty and cost of the conveyance of the requisite manure for cultivation on the other. All the land suitable for market gardening within a reasonable dis. tance of London is already put to that purpose, and if more land were to be taken np it must be further off, and at an increased cost of carriage. Bat the one great difficulty is the absolute want of proper market accommodation for vegetables. Go to Covent Garden and the neighbourhood of the Borongh Market, two of the chief depots, when the market carts are rolling in from all quarters with their produce, and you will then be able to form some idea of the utter want of suitable accommodation. Every street anywhere near these markets is blocked with dense crowds of cabbage carts. The nuisance to persons passing through these districts is already very great, and it would be well nigh impossible at all largely to increase the present supply. There is no doubt that farmers and landlords just now are having an exceptionally hard time of it, and it is not easy to see when or how times are to mend. If, therefore, any possible means could be devised for giving agriculture a fresh impetus or new grooves to work in, it would be of the utmost impor. tance. Market gardening, however, at the very best, could be but a very small help. Ivy in Fern Cases. — It is a common occurrence to see in the houses of persons who do not give their minds to the mutter. Fern cases without Ferns, or with a few deplorable bits that, we are assured, will be very fine some day, hut which too evidently wiU become smaller, and soon disappear. That the planting and managing of Fern cases is a very simple matter need not now be insisted on. It is a fact that thousands of persons start Fern cases and aquariums, only to f;iil in some way or other, and it is more of a moral than a scientific question, as to why and how it all happens, I wish to point out to all who possess Fern cases, and can make nothing of them, that they make capital Ivy gardens, and Ivies will generally live in them without any management at all, provided they have light always, and water occasionally. As a matter of course, the smallest-leaved Ivies should he planted, and they should he nicely trained on wires. When a case filled with small-leaved Ivies is doing well, it is a charming object, and much to be prefen'ed to one occupied by two or three dying Ferns. — " Gardeners' Magazine." 92 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1879. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Early Melons.— "A. D." (p. 60) thinks that " J. W." must have been puzzled when be got seven Jlelons recommended and only asked for two, but if "A. D." had noticed " J. W.'s " question he would have seen that he asked for two Melons suitable for an early crop to grow in a span- roofed pit, and two sorts suitable for a frame as a second crop. The reason I recommended Victory of Bath and Paradise Gem for an early crop was because they both stand any amount of forcing, and Paradise Gem will be ready a week or ten days before Read's Scarlet Flesh, and equal in quality, while Read's Scarlet Flesh and Victory of Bath come in together under the same treatment, and ten diys is a consideration to a gardener as regards early Melons. Victory of Bath does fairly well in a hot-bed frame, but it is not so hardy as Golden Queen. — James Smith, Waterdale^ Fruit Trees in an Orchard House.— In answer to "J. E.W." (p. G9) allow me to say that these should be plunged to within 2 in. of the rim of the pots. Plunging maintains a steadier root temperature.and a 6-in. flower- pot should be placed at the bottom of the hole in which to set the pot, in order to prevent the roots from running into the soil ; there should also be good drainage to allow the water to pass away rapidly, as stone fruit can scarcely have too much water when in full growth. Deer, sheep, or cow manure makes a very suitable fertiliser for trees in pots. It should be maie in small quantities so that it may be used fresh, and as soon as the fruit is fairly sot, supply it regularly in a weak state till the fruit begins to change colour, when clean water must take its place. — James S.mith, Waterdale. How Best to Combine Pruit and Flowers.—" A. B." (p. 69) may rest assured that she has ample glass accommodation to have a superabundance of flowers all the year round. It is a hopeless task to attempt to grow fruit and flowers successfully in the same house, and therefore the plan suggested of assigning particular plants to each kind of house should be abandoned, and the hothouses only used as ausiliaries to bring plants on for the conservatory. The first step should be to make the greenhouse suitable for holding plants by removing or covering up the tank so as to remedy the moist atmosphere complained of, and also to arrange the heating apparatus so as to command a temperature of from 42° to 45° during the wmter instead of the extreme heat she seema to have. By setting aside a hot and cold pit for the use of the flower department, and using the other houses for bringing things on when that can be done without injury, an ample supply of flowers should be obtained, but, above all, it is essential to have a gai-dener who under- stands the business, otherwise the very best appliances will result in failure.— T. B. Conservatory Climbers. — A correspondent asks (p 69) for a good plant to grow on a trellis on the back wall of a conservatory ; let me recom- mend him to obtain a good strong healthy plant, 3 ft or 4 ft. high, of Luculia gratissima at once- What could be more delicious than the fragrance of this charming winter. flowering plant adjoining the drawing- room ? The old plant h^re has just passed its best, after pouring out its frao-ranCB from over COO heads of bloom, commencing about the end of October, several of the heads of bloom measuring 1_ ft. in diameter. Gould's artificial compound manure has put quite new vigour into the old plant ; this plant compound just suits the Luculia, I never saw the heads so large as they have been this year. The temperature in which this plant grows varies from 40° to 48° without sun heat, and it needs little attention beyond spurrmg and tying to the trellis. The soil which we use is good sandy loara mixed with sand and leaf mould. — William Culverwell, Tliorpe Perrow. Mistletoe on ihs Oak. — Mistletoe is reported to sometimes grow on the Oak in England. Can you kindly name a few of the places in which it occurs on that tree ?— J. H. [According to Dr. Bull, of Uere- ford Mistletoe grows on the following Oaks:— 1. On the Eastnor Oak, on RiJgway Hill, Eastnor Park, Herefordshire, known for many years ; first described by Mr. Edwin Lees in the " Botanical Looker out " more than twenty years ago. The tree is nearly 101) years old, and has several Mis- tletoe bunches upon it. 2. The Oak at Tedstone, Delamere, Herefordshire, described in 1851 (Dr. Bull), in the Woolhope Club's "Transactions;" a middle-aged tree with a large bunch oa it. 3 The Oak at Haven, in the ancient forest of Deerfold, North Herefordshire ; described and figured in the Woolhope Club's " Transactions" (Dr. Bull). 4. The Bredwardine Oak, on the estate of the Rev. Sir G. Cornewall, Bart., discovered in 1871 ; also described in the Woolhope " Transactions " (Dr. Bull), where a fine photograph is given of the tree. The parasite shoots out from it in fifteen different places. 5- The Brinsop Oak in the Old Town Field, Herefordshire, discovered in 1871 (Dr. Bull). 6. The Hop Meadow Oak. Hampton Bishop, Herefordshire ; discovered by the Rev- H. J. D Stilliagfleet, Rector of the parish, in 1872. 7 and 8. Two Mistletoe Oaks on the Buokerhill property belonging to Mr. J. H. Barneby Lutley, near Brom- yard ; one discovered by the Rev. H. W. Welter, curate, in 1873, and the other the same year by Mr Shirley Stephenson, son of the Rev. Nash Stephenson, vicar of Bromyard. 9. Oak at the Hendre. Llongattock, Lin- goed, Monmouthshire, discovered in the winter of 1870 ; described and figured in the Woolhope " Transactions " for 1871 by Dr. Bull. 10. Oak at Lindridge, Worcester-hire; discovered in 1870by Mr. John Twinberrow of Witley, and described by Mr. Edwin Lees. 11- The Badham Court Oak, Sudbury Park, ntar Chepstow; described in Wo:ilhop3 " Transac- tions f.)r 1S(U ( Dr Bull). 12. Frampton-on-Severn Oik, Gluiioestershire, be'.oiging to Mr. Cliilbrd (Ibil). 13. Mistletoe Oak, near Knightwick Church, Worcestershire ; discovered in 1871 by Miss Eliza Walker, of Knightwick. 14. Oak at Burningfield Farm, Dansfold, Surrey, the pro- perty of Mr. W. L. Woods. (Woolhope "Transactions," 18C4). 15. Hack- wood Park Oak, near Basingstoke, Hampshire (Ihid) ; a very old tree. A specimen of the Mistletoe from this tree was sent bv the first Lord Bolton to Sir Joseph Banks, who described it in the " Philosophical Transac- tions." There are notices of several other Mistletoe Oaks, and their former localities recorded, but these are all the instances, it is believed, in which the Oaks are now known to be living with the Mistletoe growing upon them ] Names of Plants. — A. A. Thorn. — Apparently Haemanthas natal- ensis, not so common as H. cocoiueus, but not rare. Questions. Lirge.leavad Saxifragas— In "W. D.'s" useful observations on carpeting bulb beds (p. 56), mention is made of the large-foliaged Saxi- frages, such as oppositifolia. Will "W. D." kindly inform us what Saxifrage he had in view when he wrote oppositifolia ? I am much interested in Saxifrages, and what I have known as S. oppositifolia is not large-foliaged. " W. D.'s" advice is too good to allow of mistakes which have a tendency to throw doubt on the whole if not corrected. — Thomas Williams, Ormskirk. Fuchsia serratifolia. — In Harrison's " FloiicuUural Cabinet " of August, 1845, there is given an illustration of this remarkable and beau- tiful Fuchsia. I have had it in the open air almost ever since then, but thii winter I have lost it. It never flowered well in the open air, but grew freely enough, and was worth growing, if only for its rich green foliage. Is it in cultivation now?— William Johnston, BaUykilbeg, Co. Down. Carpeting Balb Beds. — I wish to thank your correspondent for his answer to my wants in your last week's number, and also to ask " W. D.," (p. 55) who has sent a very valuable contribution on this sub- ject, if he would kindly supplement his remarks by a few words on flower- ing carpet plants for autumn bulbs, both remaining in the ground un-. disturbed, unless for occasional improvement of the soil, &c. What I wish is to be able to place over a portion of my bulbs, plants beautiful in foliage during winter, and flowering in the autumn. I should also like to trespass so much further on his kindness, as to ask whether all these carpet plants, spring or autumn, might not, if desired, in special cases, be used to cover deciduous herbaceous plants, with a pleasant winter foliage ? — J. S. Filmy Ferns. — What soil do Todea superba, Hymenophyllum fla- bellatum, and the like require ? What temperature do they need in winter and summer ? Is 40° enough in winter ? — R. Johnson. Schoolmaster Potato. — Having seen an advertisement in The Garden relative to the above Potato yielding from tn-o tahers in the second year the enormous quantity of 60 bushels, 1 should feel truly thankful if the person who accomplished this feat would let the " School- master " come among us and enlighten our dai'kness in regard to the matter. Living, as I do, in one of the best Potato districts in the king- dom, I must say that I am incredulous oa the subject. However, if the above statement prove to be a fact, then by all means let the "School- master" go abroad. Let there be no more famine or complaining in our streets after this. Such a feat as the above forcibly reminds me of the miracle of the loaves and fishes. — D. T. Koyal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh.— Mr. Sadler, the newly- appointed curator of these gardens, first went there in 1854. For some time he was engaged in the conservatories, and also in the propagating department and herbarium. During the aumraer months he assisted Professor Balfour, the Regius Keeper. In 1858, on Dr. George Lawson (now Professor in Dalhousie College) leaving. Dr. Balfour appijinted him his assistant in all matters connected with the botanical classes at the Garden, as well as in his duties as Regius Keeper. In 1861 Mr. Sadler was appointed secretary to the Scottish Arboricultural Society ; in 1867 Lecturer on Botany to the Royal High School; and since 1858 he has been the Acting Secretary of the Botanical Society of Edinburgh. In 1869 the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society awarded him the Neill prize of Jt5U for his many services to practical botany. Garden Appointments. — Mr. Thomas Snelling, who has for the last twelve or more years been g,ardener to B. B. Hunter Rodwell, Esq , Q C, M.P., at Ampton Park, near Bury St. Edmunds, has been appointed successor to the late Mr. Dale, as manager of the Middle Temple Gardens. Mr. Snelling, who is in the prime of life, is an excellent gardener and plant grower, and has for many years been successful as an exhibitor at the shows of the Bury and West Suffolk Horticultural Society. Under his management it may confidently be esp9cted that the Gardens in question will be unlikely to lose any of their attractions. " Ten Thousand Five Hundred Barrels are a good many Apples — yet this quantity left New York city for Europe on a recent Saturday. There is always a demand for our Applej abroad, even in years of plenty there. While we are glad that the Europeans get our fruit, we regret that but little of the profits of the shipment reaches the hands of our fruit-growers." So says our contemporary, the '■ American Agriculturist." The facts may be worth the attention of onr own growers or landowners. THE GAEDEN. 93 No. 376 j SAToaDA.Y, F3BRUA.-K.Y :, 1879. [Vol. XV " This is an art Which does mend Nature ; chanfre it rather : but The Art itself is Katudk." — ShLiketfpcare. HOW TO HAVE CAMELLIAS EARLS'. It will, I think, be readily .■idraifcted that Camellias are the most serviceable and beautiful of all greenhouse plants, but, allhongh this is the case, their value to the generality of growers would be considerably increased could they only induce them to flower earlier. Many make the attempt to get them to do this by putting them in heat with a view to force them, and wonder why it is that their buds fall off instead of swelling and unfold- ing as they expected to see them. Knowing that pl.ints of nearly all descriptions may be got in bloom out of their natural season by the use of artificial heat, those unacquainted with the culture of Camellias attribute their failure to every cause but the right one, and persevere in the same course year after year till they give up in despair. As many may now be about to try the experiment with a portion of their plants, a word of warning may be useful. The only way to get Camellias to flower early is to start them early into growth, and if this hi persevered in for two or three seasons they acquire the habit of flowering in the autumn and winter instead of the spring. By treating some in this manner I always have plenty of blooms in October, and from that time onwards, and these from plants trained on the back walls of Vineries where little or nothing else would grow, owing to the dense shade and absence of light. Any one, therefore, having such places vacant, cannot possibly do better than to utilise them as we have done, and if the work be set about at once, in order that the plants may make their growth when the Vines are forced, there will be a good prospect of cutting plenty of flowers at this time next year. Camellias in pots are all very well for the embellishment of greenhouses and conservatories, but to afford a heavy crop of bloom, and plenty of length of youns? wood for cutting with it, they must be planted out, as then, with an almost unlimited root-run, their growth is exceedingly strong and vigorous, and the cutting to which they are subjecied does them no harm, but is rather necessary and beneficial than otherwise. With us they make shoots from 1 ft. to 2 ft. long in a season, and oftimes considerably more, and, as they have now nearly filled their allotted space, I never hesitate to cut them hard back, and take a good length of wood with the flowers. Although Camellias will do fairly well in almost any soil, they succeed best in either good fresh fibry loam or peat, or a mixture of the two, and in preparing the border one or the other of these should be made use of and put in to a depth of 2 ft. or 80. Owing to the great quantity of water the plants require when growing, and also at the time when they are producing their blossoms, it is very important that they have free and efficient drainage, and the best way to provide this is to place 6 in. of soft red broken bricks at the bottom of the Dorder, and on these a layer of rough turves, to insure the interstices being kept clear and open. Some of the healthiest and best Camellias which I ever saw were grown in pure loam, and if this be used, as it may be with the greatest safety, where peat is not easily and readily obtainable, it should bo chopped lip and put in in a coarse state so that the roots may be able to ramify and extend themselves quickly. Peat should likewise be used in the same condition, as the tendency of all soils that lie long is to lose their fibre and general porosity, and more particularly is this the case with such as lie in a large body together and are subjected to heavy and repeated waterings like that of a border in which Camellias are grown. There is one thing, however, to be avoided, and that is, leaving no hollow places or cavities when filling in whereby the water may effect its escape without permeating the whole mass, for, if this takes place, plants that appear to have a good deal of water given them get little or none, and frequently languish from want of moisture at a time when they are supposed to have been abun- dantly supplied. In turning Camellias out of their pots for the purpose of planting them out, the crocks at the bottom of the ball should be picked carefully from among the roots, and as many of these should be liberated and spread about in the new soil as can be done without risk of breaking or iDJuring them. They should then be slightly covered with some of the finer portions of the loam or peat, after which the final filling up of the whole border may be proceeded with. A gentle treading will make all complete, except a good watering to be gi\eu through the coarse rose of a pot, in order to settle the soil about the balls of the plants, and give them a start. Any tying in of the branches or training that may be required to keep them flat to the wall can best be doue by straining some galvanised wire horizontally at from G in. to 9 in. apart, running the same through studs driven into the joints of the bricks in order to keep them in their proper posi- tion. The moist atmosphere and frequent syringings neces- sary when forcing Vines just suit Camellias, and I know of no situation better adapted to their growth. They are plants of a shade-loving character, and this shade the Vine foliage affords exactly at the time when it is wanted, which is during the summer mouths, and at the present season, when more light becomes indispensable, the leaves are gradually falling and admitting it by degrees. No artificial arrangement could therefore answer the purpose in so satisfactory a manner, and as Camellias are in no way subject to insects, with the excep- tion of brown scale, there need not be any feeling of reluc- tance about introducing them into Vineries on that account. I make it a practice to give them a good washing with the garden engine just before the buds begin to expand, as then the foliage, from being so bright and polished looking, is a great ornament to the flowers, which are thus set off to the best advantage. It may be that many who have not the convenience of plant- ing Camellias out and growing them on the back walls of their Vineries to get them into early bloom, may have the facilities for doing so elsewhere in pots, and the course I would recom- mend them to pursue in such cases is to look over the plants which they have in stock and pick out all such as are without flowers buds and introduce them into moist heat soon after Christmas so as to induce an early wood growth. Any forcing house at work will answer the purpose, as it matters little what the variation of temperature may be so long as atmospheric moisture is in proportion. Camellias being plants that endure great extremes without sustaining any harm. This is very remarkable considering how susceptible they are of change, and how quickly they shed their buds when any attempt is made to force then, as then warmth; for a week or two sends the buds off in showers, and should there by chance any remain on, the flowers when they expand are never anything like the size they should be. It should be borne in mind, that not only will artificial heat cause the buds to fall off, but that dryness at the root will produce similar results, and those therefore who have plants they wish to see in full beauty by-and bye, cannot be too watchful of their wants at the present time. The great mistake frequently made, is giving water often and ia driblets, instead of sufficient to thoroughly soak the whole of the ball, and then allowing them to stand till they are in a fit state to have it repeated. The point is to preserve the happy medium. As regards the repotting of Camellias, experienced cultivators differ much in opinion as to the proper time at which they should have a shift ; some think that it should be done directly the flower buds are formed, while others are equally persuaded in their own minds that the right season to shift them is directly the blooms fade, and before the young growth commences. For my own part I am in favour of the latter, as during the spring root action is much more vigorous than at any other time ; and not only this, but the plants will then better bear any slight check which they may receive than, when they are more advanced. The assistance, too, that the fresh soil affords when given them early, must tell favourably on their growth, and consequently on the number of blossom buds which they are aVjle to form over what they would have done had the potting been deterred till a later period. Ca- mellias are fond of liquid manure, liberal supplies of which should be given them from this time till aVout May or June. I have always seen the best effect produced by administering 94 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1879. clarified soot water, a stimulant that is particularly suitable to most plants, and is as useful as anything that can bo user). S. D. HELIOTROPES FOR WINTER FLOWERING. To have Heliotrope flowers in winter there should be a night temperature oi: 55'', in order to secure a continuous growth, and if the plants occupy a light position, each young shoot will terminate in 'a truss of flowers, and a long succession svill be thus obtained. But if they do not occupy a light position, so that a certain amount of vigour and ripeness may be imparted to the new growth, the shoots will be weak, soft, and conse- quently flowerless. A shelf near the glass at the end, or amid the heated air at the back of the house, not far from the wall, if the house be a lean-to one, will be a suitable position. During summer the plants must have undergone a suitable preparation. When the stock of Heliotropes is propagated for bedding in spring, a few dozen of the most vigorous plants should be selected, and grown on specially for winter flowering. They should not be allowed to starve in small pots, but should be shifted into larger pots before they receive any check, and, as soon as all danger from frost is over they should be plunged in a bed of coal ashes up to the rims of the pots in the open air. All shoots should be pinched back, to induce a bushy habit, and by so doing flowers will not be permitted to form. The bed should occupy an open situation, and the plants must stand far enough apart individually to permit of a free circulation of air, and so insure robust, short-jointed growth. Such plants when placed on a shelf in a warm inter- mediate or forcing house in winter, will produce a large number of flowers for cutting from October to February or March. Good little bushes may be had in 5 in. pots ; but the strongest will require a size larger. Plunging the pots in .summer will save watering, and prevent the hot sun acting so forcibly on the roots at the sides of the pots, from which cause plants that are standing far apart, with their pots unprotected, sometimes lose their leaves. All plants grown for winter flowering are better plunged in the open air in summer than placed on the north side of hedges or walls. It is a mistaken notion to suppose the tops will take any harm •from bright sunshine if the roots be protected. This refers to many other plants besides Heliotropes. A few of the most vigorous may, if desired, be trained as standards, with stems 12 in. or so long. By attention to pinching good bushy plants maybe had in one season. The dark purple-flowered varieties are the best for winter blooming, as the pale-coloured flowers become still paler in brisk heat, but the dark varieties still retain a delightful tint of purple. Heliotrope flowers may . also be had in abundance in winter irom old plants planted out, and trained against a wall in a warm, light house — indeed, , that is the best plan to adopt, if the flowers are wanted in . quantity. The plants should be pruned well back about the end of August, or a little earlier or later, according to the ■ time the flowers are required. The syringe should be used freely, to induce a free and vigorous break ; but when once the shoots have fairly broken into growth less syringing will be required, as this, as autumn approaches, only tends to promote weak growth. After a good break has been secured, .the size and number of the trusses of flowers will be in pro- j)ortionto the direct light that reaches the plants, accompanied, .as it should be, by a corresponding amount of heat. These .are the two prime factors in the production of Heliotrope .flowers in winter, and should always bear some relation to each other in forcing, E, Hobday. FRUIT AND FLOWER CULTURE COMBINED, In order to keep up a good supply of flowers all the year round, a cool stove or forcing house, in addition to the glass " A. B." mentions (p. 92),isindispensable,as without that it isim- possible to bring on plants during the winter to render a green- house gay, or afford anything useful for cutting. With a good light house in two divisions, where different degrees of tem- perature can be maintained, much may be done, as in it Roses, Bhododendrons, Azaleas, Deutzias, Spirseas, Solomon's Seal, Jjily of the Valley, and similar plants, may be forced in con- stant succession, while, in the other end, Poinsettias, Euphor- bias, Bouvardias, Eucharis, Gardenias, Begonias, such as mani- cata, nitida, intermedia, and numerous other winter-blooming stove plants, may be grown in pots, besides which part of the roof may be utilised for training, near the glass, in the sunniest and lightest part, Bougainvillea speciosa, that will yield any quantity of flowers for cutting. Room may likewise be found in the same way for Stephanotis floribunda, and, at the cooler end, Bougainvillea glabra to succeed its congener that comes in so early, Al!amandas,too, succeed trained in the same way, the single blossoms of which look well placed in plates of green Moss, associated with Gloxinias, Cactuses, or any others of similar form and character. A large lean- to, with a high protecting wall, such as that of a bnildmg, to form the back, is the best form of house where economy is a consideration, as it requires less fuel to maintain a certain degree of heat than a span-roofed structure does, having such a breadth of glass exposed for the winds and weather to act on. A common mistake many make when erecting houses for such a purpose is in not putting piping enough in, which necessitates more fire being used than would otherwise be required, and therefore, although there may be an apparent saving at the commencement, it becomes much more expensive in the end by annually increasing the coal bill. A boiler worked at half power is much cheaper than one that has to be driven hard to do its work, and if the requisite tem- perature can be maintained without overheating the water the atmosphere is always far mox'e congenial and healthier for plants. As " A, B," has her Peach trees trained to the back wall, the front of the houses would be far more serviceable with raised trellises, on which might be placed the whole of the bedding material or anything requiring to be kept cool and airy, such, for instance, as Heaths and Epacrises, or other hard- wooded plants of that character, any of which would likewise do well in the house " A, B," mentions as having a tank in it, and which causes it to be too damp for Pelargoniums, Such an atmosphere would be just the thing for Cinerarias, shrubby Calceolarias, Libonia floribunda, Coronillas, Cytissus, and such like that like moisture in the air, and which only thrive really well when they can be so accommodated. The Vineries may with advantage be utilised for growing zonal and other Pelar- goniums, forwarding Fuchsias, Roses, early Rhododendrons, and anything else not subject to thrips or red spider, as these are the only insects to fear that attack Vines, for black and green fly can bo readily destroyed, A greenhouse to be full of flower at this dull season of the year should be kept regularly at from 50° to 65°, and in this temperature almost everything except tender stove plants will stand and flower pro- fusely. It may be some help to " A, B," and others if I state what we now have in such a structure that looks fairly gay considering the bad weather. Most notable are the Camellias, which, owing to the regular warmth we have maintained for years past, have got into an early blooming habit, and now form an imposing background for the miscellaneous plants staged in front. These consist of forced Callas, Rhododen- drons, Azaleas, Salvias, Eupatoriums, Ageratum mexicanura. Perpetual Carnations, Cytissus, Ooronilla glauca, Schizostylis, Cinerarias, Cyclamens, Primulas, Hebeclinium ianthinum, Linum trigynum, Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana, Schizanthus papilionaoeus, Solanums of the different berry-bearing kinds. Chrysanthemum frutescens. Double Prunuses, and Lilacs, Interspersed amongst these are several fine-foliaged plants, the principal of which are Hedychiums, Palms, Grevillea robusta, and Coprosma Baueriana, with Draccena australis and the New Zealand Flax. So good and showy are the Linums and Serico- graphis, that I would strongly recommend them to be grown by all who have to keep a house gay during the winter, and if a temperature anywhere above 50" is maintained, they will be found to be just at home and to expand their gay blossoms in the greatest profusion. Other most useful winter-flowering plants are Libonia floi'ibunda and L, pen- rhosiensis, the latter especially; it forms dense, neat little bushes, quite covered with bloom, that continues coming on for a long time in succession. For lasting from the present season up till May, Hebeclinium ianthinum is most valua- ble, and, although considered a stove plant, it does remarkably well in a warm greenhouse. In appearance, except as regards Feb. 1, 1870.] THE GARDEN. the foliage, which is large and .stout, it resembles the well- known Ageratum mexicanum, but has larger heads of flowers of a better colour, and, as these are borne at the apex of every shoot, well-grown specimens of it are objects of great beauty. Salvia splendens and Heeri, too, are quite indispensable where a little bright colour is desired, and, by growing the t mo, either one or the other may be had in flower from November till quite late in the spring. S. D. "A. B.'s" question (p. 69) is an oft-recurring one. By skill'ul management and much attention " A. B.," with her several houses, might manage to keep up a supply of flowers including cool Orchids for the house and conservatory, " all the year round," and at the same time secure crops of fruit ; but with the means at her disposal, and pei'haps a little more glass added, which she is willing to do, she would do much better to separate the fruit and flowers as much as possible, and let each have their own treatment. Of course she could use her fruit houses for plants, especially bedding material, at those seasons when the temperature suited them. She will find that by this plan she will have both finer flowers and better fruit and more of both. She would first have to con- sider the wants of her establishment in each case, and arrange her houses accordingly ; perhaps she might find it advisable to sub-divide some of them to suit different subjects at different times, and give and take both ways, and, above all, she should not attempt more than she can accomplish with the means at command. Such an arrangement she will find the best in the end, and it will afl^ord no excuse for failure. I could give instances in which this plan had been adopted after many years' trial on the " compromising system," and the result was a greatly increased supply of everything without adding more glass. It is difiioult to advise in such cases without seeing the place and learning particulars ; but in " A. B.'s" case the fruit houses seem to be rather out of proportion to the plant houses, considering the supply required, and she might probably find it wise to detach part of her Vineries for plant culture, instead of using all for both purposes. She will not be able to keep up a supply of flowers all the year round without two plant houses, or one divided into two — a warm and cool division — according to the subjects which she grows ; and these she will find it needful to supple- ment with some of her hot and cold frames, which she says are numerous. In short, "A B.'s" wauts are successional structures, however small, in which she can forward supplies as she wants them, and this question she should be able to solve better than anybody else, if she has a clear idea as to what specialities she wants and when she wauts them, together with a little knowledge of the treatment required by each. Of course she will be able to grow a great many little extras in all her houses besides special subjects. J. S. W. MR. BAINES ON BOTTOM! HEAT. Whatever Mr. Baiues says on the subject of plant culture deserves attention ; therefore I hope no apology is necessary as regards noticing a rather remarkable and prominent article of his in a contemporary very recently, more especially as it has a direct bearing on much that Mr. Baiaes has written in Tue Gabden lately on this subject : — " Vegetable life," he says, " goea to rest through the reduction in the temperature, even in climates that know no winter in the sense that we experience it. Daring this time the heat of the earth in which the roots are placed becomes gradually reduced, and reaches ita lowest point when the mean day and night temperature of the air is at the lowest, after which it must of necessity begin to rise with the sun's returning power. The earth absorbs heat slowly, through the greater or less amount of stagnant air in its upper garface, its warming powers being still farther retarded by the natural disincli. nation of heat to descend, consequently it does not regain the heat it has lost during the period of the lowering temperature ct the air nearly so quickly as the air is warmed by the sun's increasing force ; therefore, the aboveground parts of plants — that is, their stems, branches, buds, and leaves — are placed under the growth.exoitine inflaence of heat continually in advance aud excess of the roots until the turning period has airived in the hot season, when the force c£ the sun begins to wane, after which the conditions are reversed, by the earth being warmer than the air, until the lowest point of the air temperature is again reached. I would here who look upon bottom heat in the measure now usually applied as al but indispensable to the successful cultivation of plants from hot countries to consider this faot, and I think they cannot fail to see that applying it as is ordinarily done — at the commencement ot the growing season, in a volume equal to, or often considerably above that in which the heads of the plants are placed— is diametrically opposed to the conditions under which they are found in a state of Nature, where the earth heat is in excess of that of the air only at the time that the season's growth is being matured." The hypothesis here broached, it may be perceived, will adapt itself to a good deal that Mr. Baines has written lately on practical subjects ; but, unfortunately, it is about as incor- rect and misleading as anything can well bo. Any super- structure which he may raise on such a foundation must neces- sarily tumble to pieces, and, what is more, the journal which now gives his opinions such prominence has, since the days of Liadley, been a consistent opponent of the same, as might, I think, be proved by numerous references. We are not without evidence on the subject treated by Mr. Baines, and I refer your readers to the tables, showing the comparative tempera- tures of the earth aud air collected by Liudley in his " Theory and Practice of Horticulture," and which are, I believe, the best, if not the onlj', tables existing on the subject extant, and they all prove the statements of Mr. Baines to be quite imaginary, so far as any deductions can be made with regard to the culture of plants. I need only quote the Chiswick tables of temperatures, since Mr. Baines speaks more particularly of climates like our own, because they tell the same tale as the other tables. The Chiswick records of the average tempera- tures of the earth and air, extending over a period of ten years, show that for seven months in the year the earth 2 ft. below the surface is warmer than the air, sometimes as much as 'oSi, and only during two months less than li". The months during which the air is warmer than the earth are April, May, June, July, and August, and the mean difference between the earth and air during these months is less than l". The greatest difference in anyone month is 1''21, and the least for the same period O^'il. This represents the " excess " dwelt on so emphaticallj- by Mr. Baines, and the slender basis of fact for the statement that the earth '' does not regain the heat it has lost nearly so f|uickly as the air is warmed by the sun's in- creasing force," aud so far as his assertions relate to hot countries they have no basis at all. The difference is so in- appreciably S'uall that no cultivator would think of taking it into account for a moment in practice. Within the tropics — • those " hot countries " to which Mr. Baines tells us his remarks have a special application — in both high and low situations, temperate and warm, the earth is warmer than the air by a good many degrees all the year round. It would almost appear from the evidence that as we go farther south, till the tropics are reached, the earth gets warmer and warmer till it remains perma- nently at a higher temperature than the air. The conclusion ar- rived at by Liudley from this.and much more evidence of a similar kind, is as follows, to give his own words : " hence it may be con- sidered an axiom in horticulture that all plants require the soil, as well as the atmosphere in which they grow, to correspond with that of the countries of which they are natives. It has also been already shown that the mean temperature of th& soil should be above that of the atmosphere." Wortleij. J. Sliirsox A FEW GOOD CONSERVATORY PLANTS. Those who have conservatories which they wish to keep furnished with handsome flowers and foliage at all seasons of the year should pay particular attention to the Eelection of the fine-foliaged plants which they employ, as, being of a more permanent character than flowering plants that are introduced according to the season, the effect produced greatly depends upon them. In speaking of a conservatory, I mean one in which an intermediate temperature is maintained, or, at least, suSioient artificial heat daring winter to dispel damp and maintain a light, boujaut atmosphere— say from 15" to 55° — in which plants from widely different latitudes will winter safely together. When the building is largi and lofty, permanent plants in beds attain finer proportions and make altogether better central plants than those in pots or tubs. Araucaria excelsa, where it has room to extend, forms a beautiful specimen ; Tree Ferns, such as Dicksoniaantarctica, with 96 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1370. very tall stems, also look well, associated with Oranges, Lemons, Camellias, and similar plants. For large specimens in pots or tubs the following plants will be found well suited, having always a good appearance and being easily grown, viz., the Ne.T Zealand F\^.x and its variegated variety, plants that only need the shelter of a glass roof in the oaldest parts of England ; Aralia Sieboldi, which stands ordinary winters without any protection; Dracsenaiudivisa, a graoefal growing plant ; Latania borbonica, Chamaerops hnmilis and Corypha anstralis, all indispensable for cool house decoration j Hedyohium Gardnerianum and H. coronarium, both evergreen fine-foliaged plants; that Sower in summer. To those may be added Ficus elastica and Monstera deliciosa, both effective plants where space can be afforded for their full development. Amongst variegated plants the Yucca aloifolia variegata, Earya latiColia variegata, Solanutn hybrida argentea. Aspidistra Inrida variegata, Ligustrum ovalifolium varie- gatum, Batnbusa Portnnei variegatum, Agapanthas umbellatus varie. gdtns, and Coprosma Biueriana variegata, are all excellent iu their way, and the last makes a good trailitig edging plant. Those are all easily cultivated, and moveable plants may be added to them so as to produce variations to any extent. Foremost amongst flowering plants stands the Cimellia, which, in addition to brilliant flowers, has foliage which at all seasons, when in a healthy state, is very attractive. Where convenience exists, Oaaaellias should always be planted out in good, rich loam, and well supplied with soft rain water. Amongst other flowering plants, Heaths, Epacrisei", Acacias, Daphnes, Azaleas, Coronilla glauca, and Chorozemag, all flourish, with ordinary care, in pots. Amongst old-fashioned plants now seldom met with in conservatories I find Sparmannia africana to flower freely even in the middle of winter. Climbers should form an interesting featave in conservatories, and only evergreen species should bi used if winter effects besought for. Flowering plants of a soft- wooded character, brought forward elsewhere, should be added ac3ordin-» to the season. J. Groom. NOTES AND aUESTIONS ON THE INDOOR GARDEN. Myraiphyllum asparagoides. — I have had this plant here in an nnheated grecnhoase for two seasons, and it ia now as healthy and fresh as could be desired. Daring the autumn and winter months I find it to be most usstui ; it is easily cultivated, and is unique as a winter window plant, even in a small state. Iu summer it requires rest. — Ghas. IIcUonald, Gawleii House, Stol:esley. Hadychiums as Fine-foliaged Plants. — Although Hedy. cbiams are bsaatiful-flowering plants, they are equally serviceable as fine-foliaged plants, and for the decoration of large conservatories they are invaluable, as, under liberal culture, their stems attain a considerable height. They are plants of easy culture, growing freely in any ordinarily good soil, and they will withstand a wide range of temperature. A conservatory or intermediate house suits them admirably, and iu winter a good stock of such plants is very useial where indoor plant decoration is carried on, as they are even more effective than many of the costly occupants of stove houses, which cannot readily be moved about in a season like the present without considerable danger of injury from exposure. — J. Grooji. Jasminum hirsutura. — This is one of the best of stove climbers at this season, producing, as it does, large clusters of pure white, sweet-scented flowers. Here it is planted out against the south end of a span. roofed stove, as, being somewhat rigid in growth, it ia not so well adapted for rafters. The first flowers are borne at the extremities of the shoots, and afterwards from the lateral branches for a very long period ; in fact, a large, vigorous plant of it is rarely destitute of flowers. The most suitable soil iu which to grow it is about equal portions of peat and loam with sand enough to keep the whole porous. — A. Hossack, Ragh'tj, Alcester. Large Shifts Best for Kennedya coocinea. — This pretty greenhouse climber, when well grown so as to thoroughly cover a good-sized trellis, is vei'y attractive, and makes an effective contrast with other flowering plants with which it may be associated. In order to form a specimen quickly and to i:.duoe the formation of flowering wood it must be treated somewhat differently from the ordinary run of greenhouse plants. It should never be in want of an abundant supply of nourishment from the time when it starts into growth until it ripens its wood. If shifted on in the ordinary way it is apt to get pot.bouud, and, when once that occurs, it never re- gains its normal vigour. A healthy, well-rooted plant, in a 4. in. pot, should be placed at once in a 10-in. pot, affixing the trellis thereto at the time of shifting. The compost should consist of turfy loam and peat mixed freely with sand, and a sprinkling of pieces of porous briok will help very much to maintain the soil in an open condition. — J. C, Byfleet. THE FLOWER GARDEN. ASPHODELUS EA.M0SU3 IN^ THE WILD GA.RDEJ;. Tiii.s vigorous and somewhat coarse herbaceous plant is typical of the f^reat number of plants, to provide a fitting place for the growth of which V7as one of the objects which the writer had iu view while writing the " Wild Garden." There is a host of vigorous herbaceous plants, which, while attractive during their short season of bloom, are so very much in the way during the rest of Che year that few people think them worthy of room in their borders. Moreover, such plants are frequently, from their habit, far from being agree- able objects stiffly tied up in boi'ders, while, allowed to form groups iu copses, or woods, or rough shrubberies, they are delightful. Among those who have taken up the notion of the wild garden with much spirit, and illusti'ated it with great intelligence, is Mr. George Berry, forester at Longleab. He has already secured near many of the drives through the uoble woods and outer grounds of Longleat some of the most char.ming effects we have ever .oeen in gardens, and in the face of the usual and relentless enemy of the wild g.arden — rabbits — which destroy so many of the best plants for it. The annexed is an illustration of one of the plants which he has established, sketched in the wild garden at Longleat by Mr. Alfred Par- sons, aud engraved by Mr. Hyde. The work of a forester in such a place as Longleat is no light task, and involves much attention to new and rare species of trees and shrubs and their propagation. To take up, ia addition, the extensive flora of the wild garden, and make, in a very short time, such a judi- cious use of it, is deserving of grateful record on my part. The woodland drives of England, treated in the same intelli- gent way .would form lovelier gardens than were ever imagined, aud in tbeir presencs the crude floral geometry of the present day would not get more attention than it deserves. W. R. CARPETIMG BULB BEDS. For the earlier blooming bulbs, such as Soillas, Snowdrops, Crocuses, &o., the il'jssy Sedums make excellent carpet plants, as not only are they complete coverers of the soil, but, being shallow rooters and ex- ceedingly dwarf, they permit the flowers of these bulbs to be seen in full bea-.ity above them. The prettiest arrangement iu this way that I have yet seen as a permanent border where nothing else would grow, was a carpeting of Sedum Lydium and Snowdrops. The varieties of the Mossy Saxifrages have growth of such similar character, that any of them would do tor Tulips, Gladioli, and Lilies, but these are un. doubtedly grosser feeders thin the Sedums and would, no doubt, soon impoverish the soil. The chief portion of the Saxifrages have white blooms, but a few have red and pink flowers. If these be desired as a contrast to the colours of the bulb flowers, it would be necessary to select plants that would flower simultaneously, and this might be a matter of diflicnlty as Tulips are early and Gladioli and Lilies late. The Golden-leaved Cbickweed, the Veronica repens, the dwarf Pennyroyal, and others of similar growth, all make good carpet plants of a permanent character, needing now and then a little trimming and attention. The early spring bulbs do so well iu many old gardens upon Grass that it may be doubted whether there can be found many better or more enduring carpet plants than the Grassy covering of our lawns. Bods of bulbs might be planted here and there and be protected from the scythe and machine by wire guards until after they had bloomed and the foliage had died off ; then the guards might be removed and the bed mown and thrown into the lawn. Crocuses and Snowdrops thus treated have thriven and done well for generations. It is question- able whether the best Gladioli would do as well as permanent plants for such a purpose, they are so exceedingly apt to become smaller by degrees aud beautifully less. The Gladiolus psittacinus section are the best permanent border kinds, and these will, in good soil, grow into large bunches like the Tritomas and Schizostylis, but of course they have .not perennial foliage. Gladioli and Lilies would, no doubt, thrive best amongst dwarf-growing shrubs where manure could be given, and the soil and balbs could be renovated as needed. When the tall spikes and heads of bloom of these bulbs are seen pro. jeoting just above a dense growth of foliage, they look far mora pleasing and picturesque than would be the case if the soil were simply carpeted with one carpet plant. For all general carpet pur- poses I prefer the Sedums. A. D. Tropseolum apeeiosutn. — In order to insure success with this fine scarlet. flowered climber, it should be well established in pots Feb. 1, 1879.] THE GARDEN. 97 before it is planted ont, and daring growth water should be freely anpplied. It aacceeds best in well-drained rich soil. — D. ALPINE PASSES AND ALPINE FLOWERS. One of the great delights of Swiss travelling, one of the plea- sures which draw people, year after year, to the land of snow and alp, is the never ending interest which Alpine flowers afford. People sometimes wonder how I can set off alone for a long day's ramble, over a pass or up a mountain side, with no baggage but my knapsack and no companion but my " stock," but such people know nothing of Alpine flowers and of the deep, pure pleasure which they give. Loneliness with them is out of the question and cannot exist, and when I walk after- wards round my rock garden at home, and see the plants which I gathered growing there, often as perfect as in their native haunts, the walk and the scramble come back to ray mind, and I take my walk over again. In this old-fjshioned winter, when our garden treasures are still buried in snow, an account of one of these walks may not be uninteresting. On the 27th of August last I left the bustle of the Steinbok Hotel at Chur, and the crowd of tourists, struggling for places in the dusty diligences, and started for a three day's tour over the Strela, Sertig, and Albula Passes, on my way to the Engadine. As I send the plants which I collect to England by post, I always carry with me a few small cardboard boxes, such as jewellers use, with a piece of oilskin inside each, in my pocket. Many a bos of this sort, filled with precious roots, the result of my wanderings, have I sent of?, and they have never failed to reach Eng- land in safety, with the plants in good order. Before posting them I put a little wet Moss inside, which the oilskin keeps moist, and I write the address on an ordinary label, with the word " plants " on it — and put the stamp on the label — to keep the box from being smashed. On the day in question, thus equip- ped, I started from Chur, by a sort of omnibus which carried the mail bags, at five in the morning, to Langwies, whence a bridle track alone leads up to the foot of the Strela Pass to Davos. On the way, in addition to the glorious views which the Schanfigg Thai affords, I noticed, from the carriage win- dows, many interesting plants, and the four hours thus spent, toiling slowly up the valley, passed pleas- antly enough. There were two kinds i of Lithosperraura,one with small blue flowers and bushy growth which I had not seen before, several sorts of Mullein, and a bright growth of Teucriums and Calaminths and other commoner flowers. At Langwies, after breakfasting at the clean little hotel on excellent brown bread and coffee, I began my walk. At first the path lay through the usual Fir woods, with the Plessur rushing down on the right, and numerous tufts of Buphthalmura salicifolium, with its bright yellow blossoms, scattered around, until I reached the Schnitten and Haupten Alps beyond, where the final ascent commences. From hence to the summit the pith rises in tolerably well-defined zigzags over stones and grassy slopes abounding with flowers. At the foot of the Pass Saxifraga CKsia was particularly abundant, and finer than I ever saw it before ; some of the patches were nearly G. in. diameter, and the flowers, of unusual size, were borne on stalks 5 in. or 6. in. in length. There was a white variety of Campanula linifolia, which was especially beautiful, and, as I neared the top, I came on tufts of Gentiana bavarica, and more than one species of Androsace. At the summit, 7,799 feet high, lay a con- siderable patch of snow, and a flock of long-eared Bergamasque sheep, attended by a couple of shepherds, were lying on it, as A^phodelus ramoaus in the Wild Garden. a sort of protection from the heat, their black and cream- coloured coats contrasting well with the white glitter of the snow. The descent to Davos was easy, and with the exception of more patches of Saxifraga cassia, "as luxuriant as those at the foot of the pass, and here and there a root of Viola calca- rata, I saw nothing remarkable among the many Alpine flowers I met with. The next day, after a pleasant rest at Davos am Platz, I set off, a little after seven, for Bergiin by the Sertig pass. A well- defined path led for some distance by the side of a torrent, through the wooded Sertigthal, to Dorfli, and then up the Kiihalpthal to the head of the pass. As the latter name denotes, herds of cows were feeding at intervals in the valley as far as the alp extended. Up to this point I met with many good flowers, such as Potentilla ambigua, Gentiana excisa, and Phyteuma hemisphajricum ; above it the path ceased, and I lost some valuable time, which should have been spent in collecting, in trying to make it out. One of the first rarities I met with was Primula CandoUeana growing in low fissures of rock right in the bed of a stream, and partially covered with water ; with it I found theround-headed cotton grass, Eriophorum Scheuchzeri; then, as I ascended the pass I came • on Senecio abrotanifolius in splendid bloom, Achillea nana and Hieracium albidum, a plant which always pleases me with its fragrant scent and large straw-coloured fiowers, and which I am always surprised at not finding in the published lists at home. Its leaves and stem are sticky, like the sweet Salvia gluti- nosa. Higher up, Soldanella minima reared its beautiful fringed bell among patches of blue Gentians (verna and bavarica) and the pink Alpine Trefoil. Still higher ap- peared Kanunculus rutasfolius and montanus, and, highest of all, the red and white varieties of Ranunculus glacialis — a plant which, unfortun- ately, can never be seen in perfection away from its native haunts — and, loveliest of Alpine gems, Androsace carnea and ciliata. At some distance before reaching the top of the pass, vegetation ceased, and nothing could be seen but a confused mass of stones and boulders with patches of snow at intervals, and nothing heard except the occasional cry of some wild bird and the warning whistle of the mar- mot. From the summit, 9062 ft. above the sea level, a glorious view of Piz Ketch and the Porchabella glacier presented itself, while just be- low glittered the clear green waters of the Raveisch lakes. By the side of these lakes, bearing to the right, over Alps laden with flowers, amongst which I gathered Pedioularis tuberosa and Nigritella angustifolia, my path lay, and before long I reached the head of the Val Tuors, and decended in safety to Bergiin on the Albula Pass. One word in praise of this beautiful Swiss village. Travellers are in the habit of rushing through it, either by diligence or carriage, as quickly as they can, anxious to find quarters in the hotels of St. Moritz or Pontresina, but if they could only be induced to stay here a day or two and explore the adjacent country, they would not repent it, for the walks around are beautiful. As I sat in the balcony of the Piz Aela Hotel, in the centre of the village, watching the setting sun, a storm came sweeping up the valley from the south, and as peak after peak became shrouded, and others stood out in bold relief against the black bank of clouds, the most beautiful effects were produced, and I was confirmed in ray opinion that Bergiin, with its picturesque houses and quiet people, and, above all, its magnificent mountain view, is without doubt, one of the loveliest spots to be found in al Switzerland. F. M. Burton. Bigh field, Gainsborough, 98 THE GARDEN. [Fei!. 1, 1879 SUB-TROPICAL GARDEN PLANTS. Amongst the many plants brought into notice of late years, far too large a portion are of but little value to the cultivator as regards making pleasing effects in glass houses during the winter. I will therefore point out how this defeco may be remedied by making selections for the sub-tropical garden. The Aralias form a fine class, but of these, with the exception of A. Sieboldi, A. S. variegata, and A. papyrifera, one sees but few representatives. Aralia umbraoulifera, when well grown, makes a good isolated specimen, so does, also, A. tri- foliata. These are both greenhouse kinds, and when taken up, at the approach of frost and carefully potted or tubbed, they are effective subjects for rooms or staircases, or conservatories. They may be increased without much difficulty from cuttings ; but, perhaps, the quickest mode of propagation is either root- grafting on A. papyrifera, which roots like a Willow, or else striking the latter from pieces of the root, allowing the plants to grow for a season, and grafting them above ground. Aralia spinosa is a handsome, hardy species, which makes a fine group or single specimen ; it may be increased by means of root cuttings taken off in the autumn and struck without heat. The Gastoniaa allied to the Aralias are equally useful subjects, and require the same culture as the greenhouse Aralias. The red-leaved Dracajuas are not so suitable for planting out as the green-leaved sorts, as they seem to suffer much more from wind and sun, and soon get a dilapidated appearance. D. brazi- Ijensis, with broad, handsome, bold green foliage, is a plant of robust constitution, which cannot be said of the red-leaved kinds. D. congesta and D. rubro-marginata, both graceful sorts when tall, blend eflieotively with the larger forms of vegetation in garden landscapes. Pandanus utilis is a grand subject, but it is better not to plant it out, but merely to sink the pot or tub below the surface of the lawn. Ficus imperialis and F. Leichtensteini are easily managed warm house plants, which make fine specimens if planted out in good ground. They lift well, and, if kept close for a few weeks, make useful subjects later in the year. The Metrosideros is not nearly so much cultivated as it was fifty years ago; M. albicans is handsome both in flower and foliage; M. cocoinea and M. alba flower profusely during the summer, and in winter too ; they have all the peculiar bottlebrush character of blossom to be found in so many New Holland plants. They make strikiug plants on Grass plots in sunny situations, and may be planted out in a mixture of sandy loam and peat. Cineraria platanifolia is effective, although somewhat coarse in foliage ; it should, therefore, be planted at some con- siderable distance from the eye. It produces enormous panicles of yellow flowers in January and February. The different sorts of Amorphophallus make pretty objects if five or six be planted somewhat closely together ; singly, they might be considered too stiff and fungus-like; Philoden- dron lacerum, P. pertusum, P. cordifoliura, in warm nooks have quite a tropical appearance; they look well creeping on the ground, or clambering on large trees. In Southern England they may be planted out, or may be grown in pots, butif they have much nourishment they become far too rampant in places where the accommodation is limited ; like most half epiphytal subjects the Philodendron is easily increased ; Tradescantia discolor makes a pecnliar but telling border to a bed of fine- foliaged plants. All the Alooasias and Calocasias, such as odora, ny mphcefolia, violacea, and gigantea, are beautiful objects in shady or half-shady quarters ; they require rich, friable soil and plenty of water. The Habrothamnus and Oestrums, such as H. fascioulatusand C. aurantiacum, make graceful objects either planted out or in tubs. These plants were once very common, but they have succumbed to the fashion of the day. Curculigo recurvata and 0. recurvata variegata may be made of much use in single groups, or mixed with other tropical sub- jects. That grand tree Paulownia imperialis may be also made to do duty in a more humble way in the sub-tropical garden. Pro- pagated from ripe wood, precisely as in the case of Vines, one can have plants 3 ft. or 4 ft. in height the first season, and in the following year they will be, if thinned out when stand- ing too thickly, from 8 ft. to 10 ft. high, and will be covered with fine foliage. In order to obtain perfectly ripened wood of a Paulownia, a specimen may be planted in a chink of the greenhouse floor, ani trained as a roof or wall creeper. It will make but little growth, but the wood for propagating pur- poses will be far superior to that from trees out-of-doors. Kolreuteriapaniculata, Amorpha fructicosa, and A. nana, when, cut down to a stool, annually produce a quantity of beautiful feathery foliage. In making use of all or any of the above- named plants, the cultivator will be guided but little by the prevailing mode of ribbon border, or bedding arrangements ; on the contrary, he must use his skill and taste as a garden artist in forming those pleasing combinations of light and shade, form and colour that give in a well-finished picture a lasting and pleasant impression. Sylvestris. Moravia. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER aiRDEN; Salvia splendens. — Now that the period of flowering is about over with thig plant, I should like to impress upon those who have a good stock of it, and usually consign them to the rubbish heap, the desirability of keeping them till all danger of frost is over, and then planting them out either in groups or mixed beds for an autumn dis. play. Treated in this way, the effect produced by them is quite striking. We had a mixed bed of these and Chrysauthemnm frutescens last year which was much admired, the bold masses of the scarlet Salvia being toned down by its more delicate neighbour the Chrysan. themum. Fuchsias of different colours may be used for bordering the bed. — A. Hossack, Ragley, Alcester. Stobse a purpurea. — I am pleased to learn, on such good autho rity, that this plant is fully entitled to be designated hardy, and that, in some parts of the kingdom at least, it requires no more at- tention than hardy herbaceous plants generally. Nevertheless, I think I was justified in recommending a little caution in dealing with a comparatively untried plant. I had been assured that it was hardy in a certain place, and I did not doubt it ; but remembering the comparative mildness of recent winters, I wonld not say that it was hardy. Possibly it may prove as hardy in all soils and situations as Kniphofia Uvaria, a well-known South African plant. This winter will try the constitutions of many so-called hardy plants. Many plants that are perfectly hardy on the south and west coasts succumb to the cold and wet of ordinary winters a few miles inland, and the nature, as well as the condition as to moisture, of the soil is an im. portant factor. Mr. E.lacombe, in a recent number of The Garden, suggests that persons sending lists of their losses or gains should give their addresses, and I would further suggest that they add a few words respecting soil, subsoil, situation, and^aspect ; then their record will have a real and permanent value. I am not of the opinion that we should plant nothing except pertectly hardy subjects, but it is of great importance to know their degree of hardiness in different localities and situations, and under diverse conditions. We have not, for instance I believe any evidence respecting the hardiness of Stobsea purpurea iu the midland and northern counties. — W. B. Hemsley. Signs of Spring. — These are, as yet, not very evident out-of. doors, but within the hardy plant house the crowns of Primroses are awakening and pushing up leaves, and the trusses of bloom already show tinges of colour. P. denticulata and P. purpurea, almost the earliest and most pleasing of all for the house, will soon be in bloom, and how beautiful they are! P. farinosa is producing mealy foli- age white and pretty ; P. nivalis will shortly display its pure white trusses of Bower, and P. intermedia those of rich, deep red. Auricu- las have passed through the dormant stage ; Vie pale yellow leaves have been pulled away, the surface of the soil has been neatly dressed, and the crowns are now expanding their youthful leafage. Polyanthuses of the self and fancy-coloured kinds are pushing up bloom ; so, also, are the Snowdrops, Squills, and Cloth of Gold Crocus ; whilst many-hued Hepaticas are bursting their crowns, and exposing a trace of pretty tints within ; on the trellis and walls Tea Roses are pushing their buda, whilst outdoors they look as if withered up. Mareohal Niel, ever the earliest, as it is the best, of all evergreen Hoses, is making new shoots, and a few days of sunshine will greatly encourage them; indeed, there is scarcely a plant in the hardy house that does not show that the shortest day is passed, and that "the winter of our discontent " will soon be over. How much better to have all these in a houae needing no beat, than to see a house, supposed to be frost proof, full of tender plants half dead and frost bitten. — A. D. Sweet Peas. — Flowers of these are always valuable in a cut state in summer, and, where they are required at that season, now is a good time to sow the seed. A moist situation and a deep soil should be chosen for them; they will then bloom in profusion for months in BucoeEsion. — S. Feb 1, 1879.J THE GAEDEN. 99 PLANT CULTURE FOR MARKET. Primulas. — The red and white kinds of the Chinese Primrose are grown in thousands by London flori-ts. Some grow them for sale in the shape of plants ; others for the sake of tfceir seed, which, if it come from a good "strain," is valuable. The practice adopted by the best growers is as follows : Three sowings are made ; one early in March, a second at the end of April, and a third towards the end of May. Seed sown in JLarch produces blooming plants in October and November; that sown later at Christmas and onwards. The seed is sown in shallow boxes, which are better than pans, as they do not absorb the moisture round the edges. It is sown on well-rotted manure, previously well moistened, and then slightly covered with silver sand. A piece of brown paper is placed on the surface of the box, which is never allowed to get dry until the seed has germinated, after which it is removed. The boxes are placed in a warm temperature and in a shady position. When the plants arc large enough to handle, they are pricked oft' four or five together iato a -i-in. pot, and, when they have made good roots, they are potted singly in 5-in. and G-in. pots. Whilst growing, they are kept rather close and are sprinkled overhead several times a day in bright weather. Dis- crimination in watering is necessary, as, by using too much or two little, serious injury is the result. If the plants show blooms early in the autumn the latter are jiicked off, so as to give strength to the plants. The best situation for Primulas whilst they are growing is a north house or frame, where plenty of light but not much sun can reach them. When the roots are pot-bound, a little weak manure water is given them and no more fire-heat is applied than is sufficient to keep out damj). Plenty of air night and day when the weather is favourable is given in order to render the plants dwarf and stocky. The soil used for Primulas is well-rotted leaf-mould or cow manure mixed with equal parts of mellow loam and a little silver sand. Good drainage is always necessary, and, under the above treatment, fine bushy plants, bearing large heads of snowy-white or rich rosy-red blossoms are produced. When grown for seed, all the weak blooms arc picked ofi', leaving those only which appear to be likely to produce plump seed-pods. The plants are arranged on largo stages in lean-to houses, each colour being kept in houses at a distance apart, in order to prevent cross-breeding, which would spoil the "strain." Great attention is jiaid to water- ing and ventilating after the plants have formed their seed-pods, and during very hot sunshine a little shade is afforded them. The double white Primula is grown chiefly for the sake of its blossoms, plants of it being in little demand, and, moreover, they are too difficult to grow so as to be sold at reasonable prices. There have been many new kinds raised, but the old form is still found to be the best for winter ; its blooms are used largely both in button-hole and ball-room bouquets. The most successful grower of double Primulas with whom I am acquainted is Mr. Reeves, of Acton, who has a large house wholly devoted to their culture. It is span-roofed, with a path through its centre and a G ft. bed on each side. On these beds are arranged mpwards of 3000 plants in 6-in. pots. The plants on one side of the house are always in bloom, while those on the other side are coming on to succeed them. When one side ceases blooming, the jjlants are cut down, cuttings are put in, and most of the old roots are thrown away ; then, by the time the other side of the house has done blooming these cuttings are sufficiently advanced to keep up the succession, and this goes on year after year; indeed, visit this Primula house when one will, one side of it is always a sheet of snowy-white blossoms. Double white Piimula flowers fetch from 12s. to 20s. per dozen bunches, and plants realise from 10s. to 20s. per dozen, but cut flowers are by far the most remunerative. The soil prin- cipally used for double white Primulas is fibrous sandy loam without any manure whatever, as, when the latter is used, the growth made is vigoroushut soft ; the crowns do not get well rii^ened, consequently they are liable to damp off in winter. A dry, airy atmosphere and careful attention to watering are the chief points to be observed in their after culture. Cape Heaths. — Probably as large quantities of Heaths are disjDosed of about London as of any other kind of plant. One grower alone sells yearly 200,000 plants, and I believe some grow even more than that number. The large houses devoted to Heath cuttings in some nurseries during winter are alone a sight worth going miles to see. Here, on stair-like stages, are thousands of 6-in. pots, each containing some fifty cuttings, covered with small bell- glasses. In sheds adjoining may be seen men making cuttings with pairs of scissors and others deftly inserting them in the pots, which are surfaced with finely-sifted silver sand ; others, again, are watering and setting the pots in their places and putting on the bell-glasses, whilst others are removing such as are already rooted to make room for those that are newly inserted. More men may be seen out in the grounds busily nipping oft' the points of young plants which are growing on in cold pits for the next year's blooming, and so the production of young Heaths goes on from year to year. About Christmas time the markets are crammed with little bushy plants of the rosy-coloured I'^rica gracilis and the pearly, rose-tinted, waxy-blossomed E. hiemalis, two of the principal varieties grown for winter and sjjring blooming. These are suc- ceeded by E. Willmoreana and E. candidissima, and after these come the beautiful E. ventricosa and the yellow E. Cavendishi. Cuttings of these Ericas are struck on a very slight bottom-heat during the winter months or as soon as cuttings of them can be obtained. When rooted, they are potted off, three in a 3-in. pot, and placed in light, airy situations, such as on shelves of houses or in lean-to pits close to the glass. During March they are shifted singly into 3-in. pots, and, when well-rooted, they are placed ia cold pits and subjected to as much light, air, and sun as possible ; in this state they remain throughout the summer, receiving abundance of water both overhead and at the roots. In the following winter they are cut back, and as soon as they again break into fresh growth they receive their final shift into 5-in. pots, extra large plants being potted in G-in. ones. Pure peat and sand constitute the kind of soil used for them, and they appear to enjoy it, for Heaths may be seen in some nurseries growing as freely as scarlet Pelargoniums. Fire-heat is as much as possible at all times avoided, and' in very severe weather mats,