UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3032 4 ^iatoMp. mM- w rt'^,\v^ ^V/C»^)\^if,'''¥/('/)» "SiVr W^m^mwmimw ■,■ -'■■ AKhE A CARflUf Jolt 6, latl. ItJnUgTriftTED WEEKJhY JOUl\MftJ^ HORTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES, rOUNOED BY ir. Xiohhison., Authcr of ''The ^Vild Garden,'' ''Enfjlish Floivcr Garden" <5'C. "You see, sweet maid, we marry A gentle scion to the -wildest stock And malre conceive a "bark of baser kind By bud of nobler race : This ia an art Which does mend nature : change it rather The art itself is nature " — Shakespeare. VOL. XXV.-Ml DSUMMER, 1884. LONDON : OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. JOLT 5, 18:4. CHARLES TURNER, Of the Itoijal Kurscrics, Sloush, THIS TWENTY. FIFTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" IS DEDICATED IN BECOGNITION OP UIS GKEAT SERVICES TO FLOBICULTUKE. c ret IK P., Juhj 1, 1884. .IlI,Y IS,S4.] THE GARDEN INDEX IITIDE^S: TO •VOL'OriMIE ^^IXl^V A. Abies Fortunei, cones of, 222 ; religiota, 440 Absorption of water by plants, 501 Abutilon venosum, 286 Acacia dealbata, 140; platyptera, 34 Acacias, note on, 334 Acanthomintha ilicifolia. 29S Aceras antliropophora, 454 Acer japonicum aureum, 42 \ 443 ; fiep- temlobum elegans purpureum, 420 Achmea Marie Kegicpe, 180 Acineta sulcata, 397 Aconites, winter, 100 Acroclininma, note on, 122 Ada aurantiaca, 114 Adiantum cuneatum deflexiim, 444; cu- neatum etrictum, 309 ; farleyenpe, 524 ; rhodoph:sllum, 203, 266; strictum, 26G Adonises, the, 4'JO, 510 Adonis pyrenaica, 357 ^^^schynanthus tricf^lor, 71 j^Dsculus sinensis, 230 ^thionema coridifoliuni, 464 jEthionemaa, the best, 39 Afghanistan, fruits and vegetables in, 142 African Lilies, 99 Aganisia ca;rulea, 132 Agapantbas umbellatua, 99 Agathaja ca>lestlB, 394, 437 Akebia quinata, 3S3 Allamanda Hendersoni, 58 Allium Clusii, 441 ; oviflonim, 71 ; tri- quetrum, 401; Wallichianum, t8 Almond tree, the, 194 Aloe ciliarif, 244 Alonsoalinlfolia, 255 Aloyaia citriodora, 247 Alpine Catchflies, 514 Alpine flowers, the. 4S4 Alpine forest, an, 404 Alpine Wallflowers, 442 Alpines and slugs, 206 Alstrcemerias, note on, 441 Altemanthera aurea nana, 38 Alyssum saxatUe Tom Thumb, 316 Amarjllises at Chelsea, 241 Amaryllis Colonel Eurnaby. 264, 266; General Gordon, 221 ; Madonna, 266 ; Mrs. Shirley Hibberd, 264; Ne Plus Ultra. 2^1 ; new, 291 ; new seedling, 261, 326 ; Sir Redvers Buller, 263, 266 ; Virgo, 209 ; Zitella, 309 America, hard weather in, 176 American orchards, 2 Amortiser insecticide, 540 Andromeda tloribunda, 69, 286 ; japonica, 118 ; tetragona, 5 Androsaces, Indian, 453 Anemone apennina, 219 ; apennina alba, 286 ; coronaria, 54 ; double scarlet, 220 ; Dutch grown. 466 ; fulgens, 160, 22J ; varieties of, ISO ; hortensis, 441 ; Japonica and intermedia, 256; Robin- sonlana, Ul, 165, 383; white Apennine, 286 Anemones and -Ethionemas, alpine, 320 Anemones as annuals, 142, 228 ; crown at Birdbill, 290; double, 442; double ciown, 286 ; during winter, 101 ; from seed, 427, 490 ; Irish, 161 ; semi-double, 312 AnemonopsiB macrophylla, 383, 472 Angttecum EUisi, 2SS ; faatuosum, 352 ; hyaloides, 200 Anguloa uniflora, 71 Annuals, late blooming, 430 ; raising, 269 ; some useful, 183 ; tender, 344 Auopterua glandulosa, 356 Anthuriums, seedling, 375 Ants and emmets, 294 Anthurium Andreanum, 312; Schtrzeri- anum, progeny nt, 439 ; a fine, 380 ; Scherzerianum Cypheri, 443 ; Scher- zerianum, fine-flowered, 466; Scher- zerianum,varieties of ,472 ; splendidum, 99, 114 ; Schezerianum var. Vervaene- anum, 441 Ants, destroying, 339 Apple, Blenheim Orange, 32, 49, 104; Baithelemy du Mortier, 126 ; Golden Reinette, 147 ; Bigh Canons, 352 ; Lord Derby, 3, 49 ; Sir, Gladstone, 386 ; A Perkins, 1,137; Etatistica of, 138; stocks, 405 Apple tree, a large, 126 Apple trees and Strawberries, 28, 49 Apple trees, canker in, 66, 191, 250 Apple trees in pleasure grounds, 394 Apples as ornamental trees, 361, 379, 435 Apples, cider, 29 ; early market, 465 ; for cider making, 29 ; good, 47 ; prices of, 28 ; prices of good, 1 ; two good kitchen, 147 Apricot, JluBch-Musch, 327 April Roses, 377 Aquatic plants, 297 ; choice, 318 Aquilegia vulgaris grandiflora alba, 63 Arabis blepharophylla, 363 Aralia Sieboldi, 18 Aralias, select, 56 Araucarias, transplanting, 399 Arbutus photinijcfolia, 180 Arctotis aapera var. arborescens, t9 Arecaria balearica, 16 Aristolochia gigas, 3S0 Arnica montana, 472 Arpophyllum giganteum, 306 Arrhenatherum avenaceum, 429 Arthropodium cirrbatum, 439 Art in the garden, 203 Arundo Donax, 103 Arum LiUes, 174, 313. 378 Arums, cultivated, 87 Asparagus, 501 ; culture of, 541 Asparagus beds, making new, 209 Asparagus decumbens, 331 ; or Buda Kale, 258; preserving, 323; ttnuissi- mu5, 196 ; tinned, 304 Asphodel, the yellow, 472 Asplenium horridum, 420 Aster Ejgelovi, 68 ; Bigelovi lilacinus, 68 Asters, min'ature, in pots, 260 Aubrietias, dividing, 95 Aucuba berries, 319 Aucuba japonica, 153 Aucubas, fringed, 484 Auricula Conservative, 309 ; Hetty Dean, 263 ; Maud Browne, 312 ; Mrs. Moore, 266 ; Mungo McGeorge, 308 ; offsets, 77 ; show, the, 353 ; Sir W. Hewett, 266 Auriculas, 120; and wcolly apbis, 144; General Gordon, &c., 266 ; new, S9, 143, 382; and good, 182; prt paring for exhibition, 270 Australian Tree Ferns, 34 Autumn and winter flowers, 260 Autumn sowing, 470 Awards of the Horal Committee, 4 Azalea Balwel'i, 180 ; Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, 309; B. S. Williams, 309 ; Comte de Germiny, 309 ; Comte de la Torre, 3C9 ; Comte de Paris. 309 ; Prince Henry, 209 ; indica out-of-doors, 486; J. D. T. Lleweljn, 309; La Mer- veilleuse, 266 ; Little Beauty, 291 : Mdlle. Marie Stockman, 309 ; mollis, 155, 196; Mrs. Alfred Heaver. 221 Mrp. Buist, 282; not flowering, 260 obtusa, 224 ; Princess of Wales, 309 , sinensis alba, 290 : Souvenir de Due d'Albany, 309 ; Souvenir de Marie RoEsell, 352 Azara microphylla, 192 Azolla caroliniaua, 243 Azaleas, Ghent and English, 373, 630; new, 89 ; new hybrid, 3S0 ; not flower- ing, 214 Backhouse, MeEsra., NurEerles, Yoik, 246 Baden-Baden, notes from, 267 Balm ol Gilead, 103 Balsam, culture of the, 97 Balsams, 226 Banana, new variegated, 393; the red, 523 Bananas, culture of, 259 Banyan trees, the, 446, 494 Barberries, evergreen, 219 Barberry blight, the, 47 Baskets, hanging, 167 Bitchelor'B Buttons, 363 Bath and "West of England Show, the, 330 B^uhinia purpurea, 287 Beans, best broad, 301 ; early kidney^ 198 ; the best, 91 Bearberry, the, 244 Bee Orchids, 386 Beech trees, planting, 153 Beets, the best, 9L Begonia Carri^reJ, 221 ; Comtesse Loulre Erdody, 2S0 ; Froebeli, 250; insects on, 304 ; insignis, 414 ; Lubbersi, 279 ; Lynchiana, 4£9, 534 ; manicata, 222 ; ornamental-leaved, 38; Roezli, £64; socotrana, 6 ; undulata, 14 Begonias, 443; new, 89; new tuberous. 509; tuberous, 120, 336, 344; for btd- ding. 181 ; storing, 57 Benefits of glass coping, 460 Beuthamia fragifera, 3, 246 Berbtris Aquifolium magnifica, 219; ariatata, 194 ; Darwini, 131, 230, 305, 412 ; japonica. 194 ; stenophylla, 349 Berries and birds, 112 Bessera elegans, 42 Biennials and perennials, 337 Bignonia radicans, 93 ; Ur guis, 414 Billbergia nutans, 14 ; Wetherilli and Bakeri, 118 Bindweed, the Hungarian, 102 Birds and berries, 52 ; and Cotoneaster berries, 93 ; and garden crops, 288 ; and seeds, 314, 209 ; and vegetables, 199 ; destrnctive, 176, 213 Blechnum Spicant and its varieties, 442 BHnds, lath, 261, 449 Blue flowers, 358 Blue-flowered greenhouse plants, 97 Blue Marguerites, the, 437 Bog garden, a natural, 16 Boilers, coil, 226 Bomarea conferta,6,118 ; finely-flowered, 312 Bones v. crocks, 203 Books— " Les Clematites k grandes fleurs," 111 *' Books on Gardening, new," 394 "Guide to Methods of Insect Life," 110 " Guide to the Kew Museums," 153 " Paxton's Flower Garden," 407 " Scripture Botany," 268 " The Books of Health," 92 " The English Flower Garden," 32 " The High Alps of New Zealand," 172 " Treatise on the Cultivation of Fruit for Market and Family Use,'" 130 " Wood Forests and Estates of Perth- shire," 50 Border Carnations, 429 Borders, iuaide v. outside, 147 Borneo, English flowers in, 52 Boronia heterophylla, 334 ; megastigma, 415 Bossifca linophylla, 441 Bottle-brush plants, 4S6 Bottom-heat, 268 Bouquets, fashionable hand, 275 Bouvardia strigosa, 441 Bouvardiaa, propagating, 37 ; proparaS ing double, 348 ; propagating asd cul- ture, SS ; striking, 30 ; summer treat- ment of, 449 ; their culture, 133 Bower, a summer, 363 Bowling green, a, 399 Bramble, double white, 6 Brambles, ornamental, 435 Brassia antherotes, 426 Briers for budding, 474 British plants, exterminating, 381 ; three interesting, 510 Broccoli and Cauliflower, 210 ; for winter and spring, 21 ; late, 370 ; seed, 450; Snow's Winter White. 47, 197, 2i9 Broccoli, 25S ; spring. 45U ; Veitch's Au- tumn and Snow's Winter, 175 ; Veitch's Spring White, 176 Brt^meliadsat home, S74 Bromus inermls, 429 Bronze Leaf, tte, 404 Broom, double Spanish, 111 Broom Rapes, the, 381 Erowallia elata, 226 ; JameEOUi, 221 Broxbourne Alps, the, 384 Erugmansia suaveolens, 441 Brussels Sprouts, 72, 258 Bryngwyn, Hereford, conservatory at, 214 Euda Kale, blanched, 209 Bnddleia globosa, 466 ; in pots, 402 Ends, fruit, and temperature, 22 Bulbines, note on, 442 Bulbous plants, 467, 607 Bullfinches and fruit buds, 219 Bulrushes, propngating, 151 Burchellia capensis, US Burghley, notes from, 116, 175 Euruham Beeches, Funntj Folks on, 439 Burning Busb, the, 229 Bushey Park in June, 4C7 Eush trees, dwarf, 391 Butterfly Orchid, the rosy, 474 Buttonhole and other bouq,uets, 243 Cabbage, Ellam's Dwarf Early, 310; red, 324 ; White Heart. 109 Cabbages and Cauliflowers, 258 Cabbages, early, 324 Caladiums, 443 ; new and choice, 436 Calanthe discolor, 339 ; Regnieri, 177 Veitchi, 100; varieties of, 42 Calanthes at Christmas, 5u0 ; at Single- ton, 13 ; culture of, 200 ; pruning, 251, 307, 324 Calceolarias, 462 ; herbaceous, 465 ; judg- ing at tbe Crystal Palace, 484 Calendula maritimafl.-pl., 08; officinalis var. Meteor, 250 ; sicula 11. -pi., 68 California, mountain lake in, 281 Calla rethiopica planted out, 375 Callas, double-spathed, 19, 58, ISO Calocbortus Eeuthami, 420 ; double, 445 ; double-flowered, 445 ; the genus, 342 Camassia esculenta, 3S0 ; esculenta alba, 380 Camellia, a noble, 313 Camellia borders, making, 168 Camellia C. M. Hovey, 380 ; M. Rajmond Lenioinier, 114 Camellias, 220, 243, 536 ; notes on, 37S ; outdoors in Wales, 2S9 ; priming, 443 THE GARDEN INDEX [Jui.v 5, 1884. Campanula Allioni, JS2 ; cenisia, 182 ; latiloba, 206 ; placiflora, 182 ; tbyr- aoidea, 182 ; Waldsteiriana, 182 Campanulas, a few alpine, 182 ; tall growiog, 206 CauaiJiuD fruit, 2 Condollea tetrandra, 2£3 Canistrura roseum, 279 Canker, 1C4 ; in Apple treep, 81, 191, 250 ; on fruit trees, 143 Canna Ehemanni, 2S7 ; liHRora, 279 Cannell's nursery, notes from, 457 Cannes. Hower garden at, 253 Capri, fio^vers from, 6 ; notes from, SS Capuchiu monastery at Syracuse, 426 Caraguata lingulala, 74 Cardiospermum Halicacabum, 439 Carnalian Andalusia, 283 ; Eureka, 441 ; Sirs. Maclaren, 420 ; Painted Lady, 409 ; Piuk, Tthite, 510; W. P. Milner, 463 Carnations, 256; and Tlcotees, 336; new, iO, 162; border, 429; Clove and bor- der, 62, 120 ; fringed, 510 ; new race, 422 ; perpetual floi«-ering, 196, i:86, 344 ; propagailrg, 384; Tne or perpetual, 388 ; setdliug, 2C7 ; Valencia, 357 Carrot Guerande, 109 Carrots and their culture, 174 Carse of Gowrie, fruit culture in, 430 Caseandra calyculata, forced, 259 Caa&iope fastigiata, ICi Castor-oil plants. 259 Catchfliea, the alpine, 514 Caterpillar on Auriculas, 510 Cattleya amethyitoplossa, 200 ; a new, 62; citrina, 307; Eldorado var., 11; labiata, varieties of, 288 ; Loddigtsi, 264 ; Mendeli.417 ; Mendell roarginata, 443; Mendeli 6elborn<=nsiB, 420; Mos- »irc,464; Mossise and Mendeli, 424; Mcs- firc grandis 464; Percivaliana, 13, 31, 42, 114, 166; Percivaliana alba, 136; Reinecklana superbissima, 398 ; Schrco- deriana, 463 ; .'■kinneri, a monster, 507; speciosisaima, 94 ; Triana;, 334 ; Trianse alba, 219; Triana; at P.irdhill, 307; Tiianre Backhousiana, 113 ; Triacce Bonnyana, 178 ; Triante Dodgeoni, 113 ; Trianaj Leeana, 26?, 263, 266 ; Triana) Popavan variety, 167; IriatajprincepB, 113; TrianiE Ruaeelliana, 113; Triarfo fiplendidiaslma, 221 ; Triana^, striped, 200; Triaiiffi, the white, 52; Tiiarco varieties, 157 ; Warscewiczi delicata, 62 Cattleyas from Southport, 261, £62 ; Mr. Percival's, 523 ; Popayan, 242 ; potting, 11, 14. 41 Ceacothus, a new, 400 ; rigidue, 334 CeanothuBes undtr glass, 376 Celery culture, notes on, 409 Celery maggot, thf , lO, 21 Celery, stewed, 109 Celery trenches, 343 Ceb.ia crttica, 468, 526 Cement f'lr mounting plants, 375 Centropogon Lucyanus grown cool, 219 Cercis, the genus, 347 Certificates, firat-clasa, awarding, 318 Ceitiflcating old plants, 466 Channel Island", April in the, 445 Chatsworth. beautits of, 539 Chaumontel Pears. 250 Cherry, double-flowertd, 70 Cherry Plum, double mse-colnured, 304 Cherries, Mort llo and Kentish. 103 Chicory, hHnchf d, 110 ; foiced, 71 Chimonantlius fragrans, 112 Chinese Primroses v. hardy, 251 Chimonanthus fragrans fruiting, 93 Chionodoxa Lucilire, 220 Chionodoxa v. Scilla libirica, 336 Choisya ternata. 439, 446 Chorosema Chandleri, 438 ; cordatum spleadens, 154 ; tlavum, 334, BSU Chou de Burghley, 10, 21. 47, 135 Christmas hli.iomiug Culantlies, 503 Christmas Roses, 77 ; preEerving flowers of, 60; protectizg, 102; seedling, 509; soil for, 163 ; St. lirigid'e, «, 16 Cftirysanthemum Mycunis, 68 ; refoim 4 19, 100 ' Chrysanthemums, 243 ; at Christmas, n ; at Tobio, 100 ; from Berry, 354 ; in January, 155, 195 ; In Japan, 122, 145 ; late, 6, 197, 219, 220; new, 4, t» ; planting out, 43a ; segetum, 506 ; three new, 298 Cineraria Challenger, 221 ; Orr at Eastorn and Lottie WlUiarason, 136, 226 ; Lady's Favourite, I4U; I-utlie Charm- ing, 221 ; Royal Standard. 221 Cinerarias, 313 ; double, 451, 493 ; large 282, 313; note on, 450 Citrus medica acida, 199 t^emati3 alpina, 439; cirrhosa, 117; coccinea, 32, 38; indivlsa, 270; indi- vJsB lobata, 280 : Jackraanni alba, 208 ; Jacbmanni, origin of, 112 ; montana, 337, 380; Jackmanni, 320 Clematises and their culture. 126; for out-duor culture, 472: the beet varie- ties of, 126 Clerodendron fragrans, 220 Clerodendrons planted out, 466 Cletbra arborea, 58 Clianthus puniceus, 224, 526 Climate, deterioration of our, 387 ; our, 401, 425, 465 Climbers for shaded walls, 75 ; on trees, 425, 472 Climbing Sundew, 493 Clipping Box edgings, 258 Clove Pink Mrs. Sinking, 453 Cobweb Houseleck, 232 Coccocypselum discolor, 53 Cockroaches in Peach houses, 121 Cocoa nut, milk of the, 203 Cocoa plant, fruiting of the, 400 Ccologyne cristata chutswoithecEis, 114; pandurata, 397 Cuffee plant, the, 263 CcifEea nrabica, 2G3 ; travancorensis, IPS Colchicum crotifloium, 207 Coleus Mrs. G. Simpson, 155 Collector's journal, notes from a. 232 Columbines, 4S5 ; seedling, 406, 480 ; white, 415, f08 Committee of the Eoyal Hortictiltural Society, 32 Oompo3ts for Orchids, 251 CoDophallug Titanum, ]1 Conservatory at Bryngwjn, 214 Conservatory, flowers for the, 195 Convolvulus minor, 255 Cooking vegetablep, 474 Corbularia citrina, 140, 185, 224 Coreopsis, annual and perennial, 161 ; lanceolata, 25ti Cornflower, the common b'ue, 270 Coronilla glauca, 287, 3:^4. 402 Coryneum Bejerincki, 'Z22 Costus igneus, 199 Cotoneaster frigida, 90 ; Simonsi, 372 Cotton Thistle, the, 193 Cotton Plant, 226 Covent Garden Flower Slarket, 330 Cowslips, moufetrcus, 484 Cowslip, the Imperial, 189 Crocks r. bones, 203 Crocus alatavicus, ISO; Imperati, 54,74, 96, 286; Imperati albus, 9', i08 ; minimus. 94 ; pusillus, 118 Crown Anemones, 54 Crown Imptrial, yellow, 363, 380 Crystal Palace Summer Show, 461 Cucumbers, culture in summer, 199 ; and Melons in pits. 248 ; diseased, 135, 4J0; from cuttings, 601 ; long, 324 ; remedy for gumming in, 501 Cucurbitaceous plants, 361 Cupressus Lawsoniana, the garden, 245 Curculigo recurvata vatiepata, 10 Current topics, notes on, 191 Cuscuta trifolil, 137 Cyclamen Crimson Beauty, 31 ; Dame Blanche, 136, 2G6 ; g-ganteura delif*- tum, 13G; haidy, 74; nursery, a, 160; Piincess Ida, 221 Cyclamens, Rose Gem and Purity, 260 Cymbidium eburncum, 200, 288 ; elegans, 11 ; Lehmanni, 329 ; Masterw, 432 Cypress tree, old, 93 Cypripedlum Argus, twin-flowered, 213 ; caudatum, 623 ;caudatum roseum, 464 ■ ciliolare, 3u9, 443 ; Curtist, 283 ; Druryi, 266 ; Godefroj^, 396 ; grande, 420 ; t.eeanum, 31 ; Robelini, 443 ; specta- liile, 262; Spicerianuni. 11; euperci- liolare, 397 ; Eyihetense, 397 ; venustum, twin-flowered, 14 ; vil osum var., 241 Cypripediums, hardy, 156 Cytisus Adami, 3, 14 ; flUpes, 34; fllipes, grafting, 155 D. DafToctiland Narcissi, double, 296 Daffodil, beauty of form of the, 318 Daffodil conference, 201, 233, 267, 2S9 315,3^1 Daflodil culture for market, 365 Daffodil Enily Sulphur, 185; freaks of, 440; the great, 269, 317; the white, 248 Daffodils, 290; olassiflcation of, 302; colours of, 2 3 : double, 286. 484 ; dwarf, 272 ; early, 180, 185 ; early sin- gle, 73 ; fair, 404 ; from Cork, 358 ; in ihe lake country, 270 ; notes on, 236, 395; the rtnaming, 318; single and double, 407 ; heccmicg double, 362, 383; Tenby, 272; the home of white, 3i:3 ; Trumpet, 270 ; when to cut, 273 ; Dahlia coccinea var. Paragon, 279 ; ex- celsa, 2S6 ; how to propagate the, 205 Dahlias, 120 ; single from seed, 102, 170 Daisies, diseased, 144 ; Ox eye, 5C9 Dandelion, 324 D:iphne Genkwa, 293; indica, 104 ; Mc- zereuni, 132, 142, 194 ; neapolitana, 244 Datura (Pfugmar sis) fanguinea, 358 Davallia bullata, S2 ; Mariesf, 133 ; Maries! cristata, ZOO Decaisnea inslgnls, 7L Deciduous trets, 245 Decorations, lloral, 321 Delphinium trollifolium, 63 Dendrobium aureum, 52 ; BenEoria?, 522 ; Falconeri, 464 ; flmbriatum oculatum, 100; Flndleyanum, 52; Findlejanum giganteum, 221 ; Harvejanuni, 3f 2 ; macrophylium Euikei, 177 ; I'anthi, 484; suaviesimuin, 404; thyrsiflorum, S29, 402 ; thyrsiflorum Waikeriai.um, 424; Wardianum, 178, 213; Wardiu- num Lowii, 219 Dendrobiums, 324 ; pruning, 424 Dendrometer, Kay's, tO Dentaria d'gitata, 219 ; pclyphylla, 140 Deoridlsation of chlorophyll, 32 Derhyehire wild gardening, 311 Desmodium gjrans, 55; pendullflorum, 194 Deutzias, finely-grown, 313 Dianthua Atkinsoni, 22 ; deltoide 3, 144 iJianthuses, the best cultivated, 22 Dichopogon strictu?, 199 Dichorisandras, 36 Dieffenbachia JenmanI, 31, 266 Dielytra spectabillB, 178 Diosma tricoldeB, 140 Diosmas, 247 Lioniea muscipula, 24 Dtscaria longispina, 442 Discords in gardtning, 468 Donner Lake, the, 281 Dorj anthes exctlea, 334 Double Daffodils steding, 5G9 Double Poet's Narcissus, the, 427 J'ownhill, Coleraiue, 33 Dracaena gracilis, 17 ; Lindcni, 442 DracR?nas. 37 ; the best, 472 Drosera auricnlata, 493 Dublin, plants in bloom in, 53 Dunlop House, Ayisbire, Orchids at, 13 E. Ealing Horticultural Society, 133 Early flowers, 159 Eartbenware rings for bulbs, 485 Echeveria agavoides, 268 Echinocactus mammillosus, 466 Edelwtiss of New Zealand, 203 Edging plants, dwaif. 238 Effects of the frost, 356 Elwagnua longipes, 373; macrophj Uus, 192 Elder, the variegated, 280, 319 Electric light and vegetation, 45 Ellam's Cabbages, 45 Endive Grosse I'ancalifere, 109 Epacris Diadem and The Premltr, 130 ; onosnircflora, 261 Epacrises, new, ICO Epidendrums, rare, 397 Kpilobium lleisL-heii, 63 Epimedium pinnatum, 224 Erica codonodes, 313 Erigeron aurautiacus, 486 Erjthrina crista-galli, 2B0 Erythroniams, 280 Eucalypti as water drinkers, 202 Eucalyptus from Tonquin, a new, 304 Eucharldium Breweri, 491 Euchads am^zonica, 22, 175, 226, 437; flowering the, 191 ; bulbj diseased, <39 ; Candida, 226, 374 ; caDdida,doubIe, 14; failme of, 373; grcndlflora, 252; Hartweglana, 253; Sanderlana, 252; Bubedtntata, 252 EncryphJa pinnatlfo'ia, 194 Euonjmus flmbriatus, 69 Euphorbia fulgens, 196 ;jacquinxfiora, 24 Eurjbia Gunniaua, 357 Evergreen ehrubs, 349 Evolution, note on, 326 Exacum macranthum, 442 Exhibition at Ilulloway, 268 ; at St. James's Uall, MancheRttr, 485 Exochorda(SpirfD3)grdndiflora, 305 ; 359 Fabiana Imbricata, 441 P'acts with regard 10 trees, 426 Fashionable flowers, 440 Favourites, some garden, 295 Fawcett 10 Flora, 222 Fens, wild flowers in the, 117 Ferneries and their anargemtnt, 153; unhcatcd, 415 Fern frond insects, 281 Ferns and their culture, 12; hardy for cutting, 3n ; new Maiden-hair, 414 ; (f Caniarvonshire, 339; propagating and raising, 165; the bcit cultivated, IH, 61, 107, 276, 363, 498; choice small, 314 ; fllmy, 415 ; tree, 142 ; tree atKew, 311 ; tree in Australia, 34 Ferns and clubbing, 541 Fertilising Moss, 263, 372 Festuca elalior, 429 Ficua elastica, propagating, 282 Ficus elastf ca albo-variegata, 443 ; indica, 446 Ficuaes, planted out, 10 Fig culture, 215, 460 Fig tree Insects, 283 Fig trees on the soulh coast, 139, 137 Filberts and Cob nuts, 115 Filmy Fom-, 163; for unheated fer- neries, 621 Fire Bush, the, 402 Flora of J^orth America, 388 Floial committees' awards, 1 Floral decoration, 455, 495 Floral photographs, 420 Floral time table, a, 500 Florentine Iris, the, 439 Florist's flowers, hardy, 120 ; new, 122 Flower drawing. 242 Flower fragrance, 73 Flower garden, 321 Flower garden, present day, 428 Flower gatherer, the, 372 Flower glasses, the Munstead, 218 Flower packing, 525 Flower-pots, glazed, 116, 155 Flower-pot reform, 185 llowerirg shrubs, 3C4 Flower shows, popularising, 243 Flowers and Grapes together, 356 Flowers and plants in the housp, 277 Flowers, autumn and winter, 259 ; early, 159; hardy, for cutting, 508; from Alloa, 358 ; from Cornwail, 402 ; hardy, in January, 5 ; hardy in midwinter, 6 best of the year, 12; mummy, 178 old-fashioned, 490 ; sweet-smelling white, 3t9 ; worth improvement, 491 Food and feeding, 360 Food plants injured by insects, 464 Forced plants, after treatment of, 67 Forced Roses, 264 Forsythia suspensa, 280 Fortune's yellow Rose, 422 Fowler's lawn seed, 442 Foxglove, monstrous, 644 Francoa appendiculata, 165 Fraudulent fruit packing, 148 Freesia Leichtlini alba, 318 ; new hybrid, 61, 135; refracta, 74; refracfa alia, 215, 318; refra.ta as an annual, 168 Freesia", 155 French Beans, 450 Fritillaria kamtschatcensis, 232 Fritillaries, che(|uered, the, 305 Frognal, Chislehurst, 79 Frofcts, effects of the, 470 Frosts in the United States, 153 Fruit and flower boxes, 266 Fruit and other trees in rubble, 124 Fruit and vegetable show, 4C3 Fruit buds and temperature, 22 Fruit cracking, 400 Fruit crops, S. Hants, 533 ; culture in pots, 491 ; culture in the Carse of Gowrie, 430 ; (arming, 2 ; in Kent, 360 ; farm. Lord Kudeley's, 2; importations of, 2; out-of-doors. 176; packing, 513, 525 ; frauds in packing, 81 ; preservinp, 138; prices of, 100 ; prospects of, 138, 147, 273, 525 ; the cheapest food, 366 Fruit tree borders, watering and treat- ing, SO P'ruit trees and the season, 250 Fruit trees in pots, 531 ; manuring, 275 ; protection of, 187; regrafting, 231; re- newing old, SI ; top-dressing, 320 ; watering, 303 Fruits and flowers together, 437 Fiuits and insects, 5iO Fruits and vegetables, 454 Fruits, flavour of, iS ; scarcity of home- grown, 469 Fuchsia Gustave Dor^, 38 ; sjrinprcflora, 358 ; fumigator, new pttent, 400 Garr'enera'Royal Benevolent Institution, 331, 419 Oaillardia hybiida splendens, 256 GalanthuB Elwesi major and G. vires- cens, 371 Garden, an informal, 114 Garden at Sigua, a, 404 Garden of the Capuchin Minastery, 426 Gardener, a witty, 188 Gardeners' meeting at Munstead, a, 4?5 Gardenia Stanleyaua. ICO Gardening, illustrated, IS-'j Gardening, past and present, 337 Gardens at Palermo, 333 ; in tie desert, 1S5 ; note on, 403 ; old Irish, 372 Garrya elliptica, 34 ; in fruit, 290 Gas as a heating medium, 399 Gas tar dressings, 492, 493 Gas tar on Vines, 28 Gaulthoria trichnphjlla, 271 Jri.Y 18F4.1 THE GARDEN INDEX Gentiana acaulis for edging, 360 ; vema, 316 ; Walujewi, 190 Geraniums, scented-leaved, 247 ; tweet- scented, 247 German Itisps, 446 Geura, double scarlet, 509 ; miniatnm, 357 Giant Fennels. 455 GUnnower, what is a? 75. 101, 122 161 Glauioli, 120;anioiiK Kcsts, 78 ; and tlieir culture, 20S ; note on, 162 ; plant- ing, 3&2 Gladioli sportin-j, 526 Gladiolus Colville's Bride, 53S Gladiolus The Bride, 46B ; tristis, 244 ; Quartiniauus, 111 Glamis Castle in January, 4("3 Glasnevin, Palm huuse at, 268 Glass copings r. houses, 511 Glasshouses, shading for, 439 Glass, ornamental, 4J9 Glauciun: tricolor, 6S Globe Artichoke, 25S Glorioaas and their cu'turo, 36 Glon-ra jismiQiflura, 441 Gloxinias, 443 ; at Chelsea, 413 ; in win- ter, 68 Glazed pots, 57, 116 ; for Orchids, 13, 42 Godetias, 255 Godwinia glgas, 74 Goseypium herbaceum, 226 Golden Feather, double-flowered, 246 Gooseberriee, our, 80 Gorcy, flowers from, 98 Gourd Olive, 1(9 Grape culture, 274; at ArgenteuU, 405 ; notes on, 216 Grape, Gros Colwar, 3 ; Grrs Ma- oc, 125, 147, 172, lg8; JIrs Pinceablack Muscat, 158, 17^, 1S8 ; PtarEon's Golden Queen, 373 ; trade, the, 445 ; Trebbiano, 81. 125 Grapes and Figs outdoors, 492 ; and flowers, 333, £56, 279, 4S7 ; and in the Channel Islands, 307 ; raising and prr.v- ing new, 365; shrivelling, es, 82, 125, li7; soil on, effect of, 231 ; stoneleas; 132 ; thinning, 533 ; thinning and shouldering, 470 Graveyard gardening, 247 Greenhouse bullis, 467 Greenhouses, Lilits for, F5 Greenhouses Mithoutpot>, 30 Grevillea Manglesi, 414 Grubs, note on, 396; of the dadJj-long- legs, 233 Gum Cistuses, 3S0, 419 Gum disease in trees, the, 173 Gumming not contagi >U9, 210 Gymnogramma Schizophyila var. gIo:i- OS3, 4b9 G.vmnopsis uniserialis, 293 H. Habrothamnus Newelli, 74 Habrothamnuses, 526 Hacliuey Downs, Orchids a^, 113 Bakea laurina and other species, 97 Hamamelis arborea, t9, 118 ; japonica, 111 ; varieties of, 194; vlrginica, 70 Bampton Court, at, 244 Baplocarpha Leichtlini, 6S Harcfleld Grove, Rickman w^rth, 395 Haricot Beans grown in Franc?, 301 Haricot Flageolet Merveille de France, 109 Harpalium rigidum, 256 Barpur Crewe, the late, 310 Hawkers, 309 Eeatheibank, Weybridge, notes from, 471 Iledera He'ix aurantiara, 178, 109 Hsdce, an impruved, 43a Hedges for sea coast?, 349 Helichrysura granoiceps, 203 Heliopsis Irevis, 236 Heliotropes, 247 Bellebore Apotheker Bogren, lii Hellebores and Isarcissi, 144 Hellebores as cut flowers, 144 ; crossing, 164 ; hybrid, 144 ; identitica'ionof.ISS; iicw, 64 ; new Eetdling, 119: not seed- ing, 526 ; feed ( f, 464 ; eeedlii g, 96 Helleborus Conimeiz'enrath Benary, 119 ; fccLidu?, 208; niger, 243; niger maximus, 1S4, 223 ; olympicus, 160; synopsis of. 1&3 Heterotoma lobe'ioidcs, €9, US Hibbeitia dentata, 14 Hibiscuses and their culture, E8 Himalayan Heather, the, 161 Holly berries, 4 Holly Golden Queen, 3 Hollyhocks, 317 Holly seedlings, raising, 3 Homeria coUina, 446 Hocesty, note on, 3&3 Honeysuckle, the Tiumptt, 334 Hoop petticoat ^arcissns, 4(^2 Horticultural booka, 192 Hortieultiirlsts, two classes of, 252 Hose-in-hose Primroses, 3S0 Hospital gardens, plants for, 495 Hothouses, ventiUtion for, 252 Hot- water pipes, joints for, 3S House with north aspect, 533 Hovea Ceisi, 97 Hoya bella in basket', 463 Huntsman's Cup, the, 305 Hutchiusia atylosa, 293 Hiitt jn Hall, Vine borders at, 250 Hyacinth General Gordon, 263 ; Harle- quin, 263 Hyacinths at the Bristol exiiibition, 263 ; grown in the dark, 222 ; improved, 206 Hyacinthus candicans 3weet-?cented, is, 270 ; Minerva and Harlequin, 263 Hydrangea, a little-known, 75 ; scandecs, 358 ; Thomas Hogg, 2^6 Hymenanthera crassifolia. 132 Imantophyllums and their culture, 16G Imantophjllums, fungui on leaves of, 38 Irapatiens flaccida albiflora, 451, 4'Jl ; Sultani, 374 Increase of heat, 259 India, letters from, 95, 142. 2C0 Indoor plants, 321 Informal gardtn. an, 114 Inner Temple GardfU", the, 434 In-ects, 250, 259, 312 ; injurious, 407 ; in soil, 53 Inside and outside borders, best, 319. 320 laulas, a few of the beat, 101 Ipomsea coccinea, 257; pandurata, 63, 168, 208; Thomsoniaua, 410 Ips?a fpeciosa, 94 Iris, a stove, 313 ; fimbriat?, ISO ; Florentine, the, 236 ; Kolpakow- skyana, 118 ; pallida, 506 ; pretty st<'ve, 272; reticulata, US ; reticulata Ktj- lagei, 74, 155 ; reticulati in pots, IGS.; varieties of, 139 ; Spanish, 53S ; stylnsa, 14, 220, 305 ; susiana, 15, 38, 102, 122, 144, 451 ; ruthenica. 356 Irises and other spring fl wers, S2l Irises, dwarf, th-, 317 ; Gerniin, 446 Irish Daffodili, 430 Irou lanks, 58 Isle of Wi^ht, notes from the, 15 Ismene Andreana, 257, 454 Isoloma hirsuta, 356 Isopyium biternatum, 181 Italy, notes from, 404 Ivies, tree, 70 Ivy, forms of, 141, 20O Ivy, the tree, 112 Ixia crateroides, 430 .Tackson, David, of Middleton, 37S Jam making, 2 January flower?, 54, 117 Japanese and Indian mat house, 305 Japanese Bamboos, 317 Japanese Maples, the, 247 Japan Quince, white variety of. 192 Jasmines, shrubby and climbing, 133 J.asminum multiflorum, 39, 10 1 ; for hedges, 194 Jensenian system of rotate culture, 300 Jointing pipes, 148 Judas tree, the, 347 July flowers for cutting, 238 K^losanlhea ccccinea. 49t Kalanchoe farinacea, 279 Kale, Read's Hearting, 175 ; Scotch, 253 ; variegated, 110 Kauri Pine, the, of New Zealand, 215 Kay's Dendrometer, 60 Kenwood, Albany, 132 ; Orchid notes from, 397 Kew report for 1S82, 351 Kew, the gardens at, 500 Kidney Beans, trial of, 324 King's Signet, the, 4rs Kniphoftafoliosa, 199. 202 KnockmuUen, notes from, 441 L. Labichea lanceola'a, 293 Laburnums, the, 518 Lachenalias, culture of, 414 ; plan'ed out, 140; select, 1^0 Lachenalia Nelsoni, 83 Lady's Slippr-rs, hardy, 466 ; hybrid, 32 La?lia ancopa, 534; a. Percivaliana. 113; a. rosea, 14 ; a., varieties of, 11 ; a. Veitchl, 113; a. venusta, 114; a. Williatnsiana, 136; anew, bi; autum- nalis venusta, S'aO ; Callistoglossi, 263 ; Crawshayaua, 11; grandis, 288; pur- purata Brysiana, 522 ; Wolstenholmiro, 393 Lipageria, training, 251 Lasthenia californica, 470 Lath blinds, 226, 261,293,321,400, 414, 449 Lathyrus latifolius splendens, 256 Lattice leaf plant, the, 214 Laurie Park, Orchids at, 40 Laurustinu^ hedges, 3 Laurustiuus, seeding of tha, 3 ; va ie- tieiof, 71, 220 Lavatera arborea variegata, 68, 132, 449, 490 Lawns and their formation, 77 ; repair- ing, 143 Lawn mow?l"S, 399 Lawa tennis, 60 Lawn weeds. 270 Laxtou's King of the Earliea Straw- berry, 514 Leaves of gold, 533 Leiophyllum biiX'fo'inm, 293 Lenionia trifoliata, 419 Lenzites gibba var. tenutor, 137 Leonotis Lennuru"?, 69 Lescheiaultia biloba, 534 ; biloba major, 97, 446, 494 Letters from India, 95, 143, 200 Lettuce, Mortatella, 109; white Cos Bur- gundy, 1(9, 205 Lettuces, early, 46, 109; sumnnr, 370 Leuc 'jiini carpaiicum, 140 ; pulchellam, 305 ; vernum 102, 130, 160, 3 '5 ; fl -pi., 141; twin (lowered, 2:i4 Leucoju^ns, the, 1G4 Lichens on Pear trees, 104, 125, 143 Lifeguard Potato, 253 Lilies and the weather, 362 ; earf-hing up, 314 ; note on, 1^2 Li.ium auratum, newly Imported, 151; out of doors, 59; el-'gana cuttatum, 380; g'ganteum, 133; lanc'fi.dium rubrum, 60 ; Melpomene, 82 ; origin of, 1 0 Lily shoots, hardineE's of, 407 Llnarii anticarii, 41-5 ; pallida, 538; pifosa var. longicalcarata, 71 ; tn- ornithophora, 526 Lincolnshire trees, la-ge, 419 Liiium graudiflorum, 255 ; trigynum, 86, 345 Lisianthus Ku'^sellianus, 3(5 Liverpool Winter Gardtn Associitlon, 242 liOasa hispida, 451 L tbeliai from seed, 16 ; North Amarican. 59, 103 Lomaria, the genus, 18, 61 Lonchitis, the genus, 107 London flower?, 343 ; girdens, 463 Long service, a, 138 Lonicera Standishi, 70 ; fra^rantiasima, 132; sempervireus, 334 Loropetalon chinenss, lOi Lotus peliorhynchus. 71 Love lies-bleeding, 270 Loxford Hall, late vinery bo.d ;r at, 431 Lucuiia gratisiima, 58 Lycaste costata, 199 ; Sknneri alba, 54 ; S. delicatissima, 242 Lychnises, alpine, 514 Lychnis pyrenaica, 486 Lygodlum, the genus, 107 M. Magnolia conspicua, 244 ; Soul.ingeina, 290 ; S. nigra, 276 ; pan itlo:a, 93 ; purpurea, 93 ; stellata, 191, 221 Maidenhair Fern, new, 414 Maidstone, show at, 485 Manchester Whitsuntide show, 484 Manure, liquid, for fruit trees, 23 Maples, red, 286, 419 ; Japanese, 70 Marcchal Mel Koses, 402, 424 Mart5chal Niel house at Bath, 415 Marguerites, 14, 2 '6 Marlca cocrulea, 272 ; gracilis, 2U Maricas, 393 Marigold Meteor, origin of, 120 Marigolds, French, 255 Jlariposa Ltlies, the, 342 M.nrket fruit garden, 413 Market garden notes, 198 Masdevallia Chelsoni, 266, 420; Estradre, 242; Harryana, 503; racemusa Crossi, 483; Bchlimi, 114, 266 Masdevallias, -184, 622 Massing v. bedding out, 505, 628 Maxillaria Harrisonia; alba, 398 May-day idyl, a, 371 Meads of Asphodel, 100 Meconopsis Wallichi fuaco purpurea, 4,:9 Medinillas, E26 Medlars end Quinces aa ornamental trees, 419 Melon Bellegarde Cantaloup, 109 Melons a^d Cucumbers, 145, 243; early in pots, 26 ; for preservin'?, Si; settlDg, 431 Melville's Snowdrops, 54 Mesembryanthemums, 490 Mesochlrena javanica, 457 Mexican orange, the, 439 Mexican Bird flower, the, 113 Mice V. Peas and Bean«, 238, 302, 349 Microsoriura irioides. 457 Midlands, February flowers in (he, 139 Mignonette, 247 ; Garraway'a white, 257 ; new and old, 271; spring, 57; wild perennial, 39 Mimulus CInth of OolJ, 420, 403 Miniature Ptoses, 474 Modern florists, the, 436 Mohiia thurifraga, 453 Moneywort, j;oIden, 535 Jlouogramnia linearis, 459 Montbretia c ro cos m re flora, 3G3, 520 Morina Cjulteriana, 71 Moss culture, 500; advantages of, 404; Dumesnil's, 313 Mountain Tobajco. 472 Muramy flowers, 178 Munstead flower glasses, 243 Munstead, gardeners' meeting at, 435 ; March notes from, 230 Murray's composition, 414 Musa rosacea, 4C1 Muscari concinnum, 266 ; HeMrelchl, 244; moscha'.uoaflavum, IS); rupeitre, 285 Mu«ch-Mu9ch Apricot, 250 Mushroom beds, 152 Mushroom failure, 47 Mushroom spawn, 10, 21, 46, 222 Mushrooms. 72 ; in cellars, 193 ; in sheds, 239 Musk, '^47 Mycsotis dissitifioraalba, 383 Myrtles, 217 N. Narcissi and climate, 270, 325 ; culture of, 383 ; double, seedling of, 179, 471 ; identiflcation of, 183; in the Scilly Isles, 117, 179, 244 : Italian, 293 ; new seed- ling. 357; nomenclature of, 375, 401; parti-coloured, 317 Narcissus calathinu', 318 ; cernuus, habitat of, 380 ; Dickson's Peerless, 305 ; double minor, 290 ; double Poet'-s the, 427, 610 ; farming, 51 ; incompara- bilis, fertility of, 489 ; James Dickson, 309, 423; Queen of the Netherlands, 309 ; J. B. M. Camm, 3 9 ; juncifolius, 305 ; lectura on the, 283 ; Queen of England, 309 ; monophyllus, 14 ; mon- tanus. 372 ; pallidus priecox, 96 ; palli- dum prro^ox, 136, 185 ; poeticus, 371 ; poeticus biflorus, 3U9; princeps, 224, 258; recurvu^, 473 ; the double loel's, 38), 416 Nasturtiums, 257 National Chrysanthemum Society, 52 Natural bog garden, a, 16 Neapolitan Crocus, the white, 203 Neottia Nidus-avis, 543 Nephrodium, the genus, 458 Nerine Fotbergilli, 266 New plants of 1SS3, 89 Newry, flowers from, 441 ; notes from, 2S9 New Zealand Edelweiss, 203 New Zealand Hops, 11 New Zealand, horticulture In, 19 ; the Kauri Pine of, 215 Nice, notes from, 401 Niduiariuins, 291 Nierembergia riviilaris, 144 Nomenclature of Daffodils, 363 " North" Gallery at Kew, 363 Norway Spruce, weeping, 229 Notes from a collector's journal, 232 ; from Capri, 33 ; from Duneevan, 525 ; from Heatherbank, Weybridge, 474 ; from Pilrig Park, 539 ; from Wilton House, 537 Notholicna Lemmoni, 93 Notospartium Carniichaelia?, 114 Nottingham Horticultural Society, 116 Nuttallia cera&iformis, 160 Xymphrea candidissima, 527 ; Nymphrei zanzibarensis, 210 Oaks, variegated, propagating, 70 Odontoglossums at St. Albam, 423 choice, SOS ; in winter, 11 Oleanders, the, 404, 536 Omphalodea vema, 203 Onion culture, 197 THE GARDEN INDEX [Jcf.Y J, 1884. Oeituart— Atkins, James, 310 Balfour, John Button, 138 IJrittain, ThoniaB, 94 Buccleuch, Duke of, 332 (.'arr-Ellison, Ralph, 116 Engelmaiin, Dr. George, 222 lavall^e, 51. Alphonse, 3S5 Maule, A. J., 422 Milner, Edward, 310 Moore, Alexander, 37S Speed, Thomas, 12 Verschaffelt, M. Jean, S7S OdontogloBSum sdspersnm, 54, 94 ; Alexandrfc, J64 ; Alesandire mirabile, r)23 ; a new, 264 ; PoUettianuni, 136 ; Cervaateai decorum, 33 1 ; cinnamo- meum, 352; ciispum aureum, ICG ; ]iallaiitmei, 42); dellitrse, 420; ftue variety of, 242 ; finely flowered, 2)0 ; puttatum, 309 ; cordatum, 135 ; Ed- wardi, J78, 242 ; elegans supeibissi- mum, 443 ; hjbrid, 2SS ; Jnslea>i splendens, 148 ; macrospilum, 2t6 ; nebulosum album, 11 ; nevadense 329; (Erstedi, 263; polyxanthom, 443 ; Eoezli, 94, 398, 417 ; R. spUnders, 358; Sandtrianuni,156 ; Shuttlewortbi, 309; vexiUarium, a while, ; loDgifolia, 509 Saxifrages, 6 Scabious, dwarf, 77 Scale on Peach trees, SI, 82 Scarecrow, an explosive. 384 Scarlft Mitre flower, 402 Schinus Jlolle, 418 Schismatoglottis pulchra. 489 Schizauthus Grahami, 466 ; papiliona- ceus, 2*26 ; Schizostylis coccinea, 188. 220, 237 Schlumbergera Liudeni, 279 Science and non-science, 72 Scilla sibirica, 7 ; verna, 402 Scillas. early, 140 Scilly Isles, Narcissi in the, 179, 244 Sclerotia in Potatoes, 31 Scolopendrium vulgare crispum, 215 S'^otch Kale, 258 Scotch Polyanthuses, 445 Scrapers, kitchen garden, 349 Screw Pines, the. 134, 261 St akale, propagating, 4^ Seedling Amaryllises, 261 Seedling Pansiea, 445 Seed saving, 417 Seeds, treatment of, 214 Selaginellas, note on, 459 Senecioabrotanifulius, 486 ; pulcher, Serapias cordigera, 454 Sermons in stones, 506 Setting and thinning Grapes, 386 ; ditto Peaches by the syringe, 386 ShadiDg, 265, 439 Shakespeare, the counfry of, 469 Shelton Abbey, 520 Shirley Vicarage, notes from, .^83 Shrubs, berry-bearing, 131 ; evergreen, 349 ; flowering, 349, 359 ; flowering, notes on, 327 ; for pot or boxes in win- dows, 327 ; golden-leaved, 359; notes on, 111 ; sweet-scented, 132 ; pruning, 111 Siberian Crab, the, 318 Signa, a garden at, 4<.'4 Silene pendula cumpacta fl.-pl. , 68 Silver Birch, the, 7u SUverdale Lodge, Sydenham, Orchids at, 40 Single Daffodils doubling, 427 Singleton, Calanthes at, 13 Single r. c'ov.b!e flowers 325 Sii'op, 94 Ji'i.Y 5, 1884.] THE GARDEN INDEX SlajTinchiuragranrliflorum, 54, 100, 102 Sium latifolium, 237 Slugs and alpines, 206 Slugs, destroying, 326 Snowdrop, green-petalled, the, 272 ; with white spathes, 21!) Snowdrops, early, 74 ; forcing, 37, 86 ; two good, 161 Suownake, the Spring, 102, 305, 335 ; varieties of the, 160 Snow Glory, the, 247 Societies— National Dahlia, 330 Auricula and Carnation, 138 Caledonian Horticultural Society, 329 Cottage garden, 293 Crystal Palace spring show, 308 National Auricula, 353 Royal Botanic, 266, 353, 443. 523 itoyal Horticultural, 31, 136, 221, 263, 309, 330, 352, 377, 420, 463, 484; an- nual general meetine, 137 Royal HorticuUural Society of Ireland, 331 Sale Botanic, 330 Solanum betaceum hfematocarpum, 317 ; criapum, 439 ; ilaglia, 440 Solanums, tuber-bearing, 400 Soldanella alpina, 160 ; minima alba, 140 Sollya linearis, 486 Solomon's Seal, 430 Sophronitia grandiflora, 14, 178 South American forests, 404 South coaet, Figs on the, 139 Spanish Broom, the. 441 Sparmannia africana. 72 Sparrows and green fly, 404 Spawn, Mushroom, 46 Specimen plants, 191 Spinach, culture of, 2S7 Spiraa. a new, 323 ; confnsa, 34 ; confuBa and Thunbergi, 112 ; Thunbergi, 221 Spot in Orchids, 261 Spring bedding, 257 Spring flowers at The Holme, Godalm- ing, 201 Spring flowers, hardy. 76 Spring gardening at Belvoir, 335 ; possi- bilities of, 191 Spring notes, early, 121 Squills, blue, 185 St. Brigid's Christmas Rose, 15 Stages, moist and dry, 166 St. Albans Orchid Nurseries, 227 Stanhopeas, hardy, 137 Stanhopea tigrina grandiflora, 279 Staking Calceolarias, 472 Statice Suwarowi, 6S Stenomesson incarnatum, 454 Stenorhynchus speciosum, US, 404 Stephanotis floribunda, 313, 374 ; large, 486 ; and Gardenias, 344 Steudneria colocasiic folia, 118, 489 Stigmsphyllum ciliatum, 442 St. Michael Oranges, 404 Stock, influence of, on graft, 62 Stock, night-scented, 184 Stocks, 442, 486 ; and Rockets, 5C6 ; cul- ture of, 471 ; East Lothian, 506 Stoke Newington Chrysanthemum So- ciety, 158 Stony land, utilising, 410 St. Tetersburg, flower show at, 105 Strawberry beds, dressing, 126 Strawberry Crinoline, 28 Strawberry crop, value of a, 186 Strawberry, cilture of, for profit, 159, 217; notis on, 273; forcing the, 22 ; General Chanzy, 250 ; King of the Ear- lies, 514 Strawbenies, digging among, 81, 103 ; Strawberries, forced, 275 ; Hazel supports (or, 514 ; in the Channel Islands, 140 ; market, 232 ; plants forced, 611 Streams, double fringed, 142 Street flowers, 86 Strelitzia reginro, 14 Strelitzias, culture of, 163 Streptocarpus caulescens, 287 Streptosolen Jamesoni, 160 Strobilanthus isophylla, 14 Strophanthus Bullenianus, 286 Sub-tropical bedding, 60 Sudbury House, Orchids at, 4S1 Sugar Beet, white-fleshed black, 109 Summer-flowering plants, select, 162 Sunflowers, annual, 184 ; in thade, 398 ; perennial, 510 Sutherlandia spectahilis, 441 Sweet I*ea Invincible Carmine, 603 ; Princess Beatrice, 68 Sweet Peas, 270 ; in a cut state, ^30 Sweetscented plants, a few useful, 247 Syringa vulgaris fl.-pl. Lemoinei, 352 Syringe v. camera-hair hruah, S66 T. Tabernfemontanas at Ljthe HIU, 3S0 Tamarisk used in Pdris gardens, the, 442 Tanks of iron, 58 Tar dressings, 442, 472 Taymouth gardens in December, 161 Tea gardens and Tea planters, 142 Tea Roses, 223, 334, 473 Tecophltca cyanocrocus, 244 Tenby Daffodil, 160, 356 Tennis lawns, 60 The Hall, Stamford Hill, 42 The Holme, Godalming, spring flowers at, 201 Theophrasta imperialis, 0 Theory v. practice, 373 Thinning and shouldering Grapes, 432 Thinning fl )wer8 and fruit, 432 Thistle, a new scarlet, 402 Thorn, perpetual-flowering, 216 Thunbergia Harrisi, 58, 244 Thyrsacanthus rulilans, 244 Tigridia Pavonia alba, 6 Tigridias, wintering, 77 Tilia petiolaris, 114 Tillandsias and their culture, 29 Tillandsia streptophylla, 440 Tinnea a?thiopica dentata, 199 Tobacco juice, iU Tobacco plant, the white, 494 Todeas and Trichomanes, 345 Todeas, culture of, 99 Tomato, Hackwood Park, 135 Tomatoes and their culture, 110 ; in pita and frames, 300 ; in pots, 91 ; in the open air, 349, 400 ; note on, 466 ; under glass and out doors. 287 Torenia Fournieii, 29S Toreniaa and their uses, 93 Town flowers, 334 Toxicophlxa spectabilis, 96, 220 Training and planting, 24S Transplanting, best season for, 245, 246 Transplanting large trees, simple method of, 152 Transplantinj; shrubs, on, 203 Trees, ages at which to transplant, 245 ; berry-bearing, 131 ; climbers on, 425 ; love of, 440 ; on the North Pacific Railway, 2iO ; our ornamental^ 399 ; select flowering, 229 ; wall cbmber, under, 61 Tree P'erns in Australia, 34 Tree Mallow, variegated, 182 Tree or perpetual Carnations, 429 Trichinium Manplesi, 99 Trichocaulon piliferum, 489 Trichocentrum porph>rio, 114 Tricntftlis europoea, 490 Triteleia uniflora, 6 Tritoma corallina, 69, grandls, 257; Saunderfci, 09 ; I'vaiia nobilis, 69 Tritonia aurea, 279 Tropoeolum G.'crtnerianum, 451 ; specio* sum, 324 Tropical vegetation, 89 Tsuga canadensis globularis erectfl, 93 Tuberoses for forcing, 196 Tulaerons roots, planting, 324 Tulip, Kaiser Kroon, 267 Tulip show, 336 Tulipa Albert!, 489 ; ElwesI, 454 ; Grelgl, 441 ; Kesselringi, 440 ; Ostrowskiaua and T. triphylU, 279 Tulips at Clifton, 310 ; early, 52 ; late flowering, 402 Turf, charring, 33 Turnip culture, notes on, 449 Tydaeaa in winter, 36 Urn flower, the, 282 Uro-Skinnera spectabilis, 71 Valerian, varieties of, 486 Vanda cristata, 424 ; insignis Schroe- deriana, 108 ; ccurulescens, 372 ; tri- color, 114 ; Sanderiana, 104, 283 ; sua vis, 503 Vaporised tobacco juice v. fum'gation, 372, 425 Vegetables, cooking, 474 ; cropping, 175 ; for May sowing, 409 ; new. 109 ; neglected, 12; notes on forcing, 19; preserving. 110 ; worth growing, 19, 47 ; Eome good, 91 ; young, planting out, 450 Vegetation and the electric light, 45 Veitch Memorial prizes, 11 Veitch's Virginian Creeper, 76 Ventilation for hothouses, 252 Verbascum ferrugineum, 290 Verbena, sweet-scented, 265 Verbenas from seed, 161 Veronica Girdwoodiana, 506 ; Hulkeana, 439 Veronicas, New Zealand, 53 Viburnum Opulus, 112; Tinus hirt;um, 220 ; Tlnus pyramidalis, 220 Vienna, notes from, 360 Villa gardens, 445 Vine borders, 29 ; at Hutton Hall, 250 ; at Wynyard Park, 218 ; covering, 251 ; inside V. outside, 1, 4S, 65, 80, 103, 124, 275, 366 ; watering, 125, 188, 532 ; with- out soil, 49, 218 Vine canes, fruiting, 28, 65 Vine culture, 187 ; incidents in, 431, 472 Vine leaves, 354, 387 Vine roots, 387, 405 ; going outside, 146, 250, 308 ; testimony respecting, 373 Vine weevils, 288 Vines, 536; at Lambtnn, 532; bleeding in, 192, S50, 208. 387; diseased, GO, 320; earlinesB of, 406, 460 ; fertility of ex- tension-trained, 373 ; gas tar on. 28 ; large, 492, 493 ; mUdewon, 319; plant- ing, 28, 385 ; pot, 3, 29 ; pruning young, trained horizontally, 147 Violas and Pansies, 257, 490, 531 Violet, Comte Brazzi'a white, 15, 34; culture of, 144 ; Marie Louise. 6, 316 Violets, S43; culture of, 316; note on, 120 ; out-of doors, 75 Virginian Cowslip, 290 Vriesia DiivaUana, 282; hieroglyphica, 279 W. Walks, salting, 95, 144 Wallflower Bedfont Yellow, 233 ; Har- binger. 184 Wallflowers, alpine, 472 ; double, 247, 358 Wall fruit trees, 319 Wall garden, a, 318. 468, 505 Wall trees, nailing, 60 ; epur pruned, 512 Walnier Castle, the garden at, 239 Water Parsnip, the, 237 Water Lilies, 4S7 Watsonia aletroides, 483 Weeds on gravel walks, 144 ; en lawns, 122, 123, 164 Weeping Norway Spruce, 229 Weigela rosea, 112 WesEord, flowers from, 244 White Cup and Maiden Pink, 141 White Tiger flower, the, 6 Wicklow garden, a, 202 Wild gardening in Derbyshire, 311 Windflowers, 527 Window boxes, 174 Window garden, a new year's, 38 Window plants and glazed pots, 174 Winter borders, plants for, 206 Wistaria sinensis. 441 •' With Daffodils bedight," 372 Woolly aphis on Auriculas, 141 Worms, 400 Wych Hazel, .Tapanese forma of the, 228 Wyedale Plum, the, 218 Wynyard Park, Vine borders at, 218 Wythenahawe, Cheshire, notes from, 419 Xanthocephalura (Gutierrezia) gym- nospernioides, 451 Xiphion Histrio, 15 York Nurseries, the, 246 2. Zanzibar Water Lily, the, 210 Zephyranthes Treatijc, 212 Zmc and water, 263 Zygopetalum Mackayi, 11 THE GARDEN INDEX [July 5, 1884. ENGRAV\NGS. Acer palmatam 70 AcinetaHumboldti 482 Adiantum cuneatum deflexam .. 415 Adiantum rhodophjUum .. .. 415 Adonis pyrenaica 471 ^thlonema grandiflorum . . . . 39 Agathfca ccelestis 437 Alphonse Lavallt'e 385 Amaryllia house at Chelsea, the .. 210 Anemone decapetala 527 Anemonopais macrophjila _ .. 333 Ant, common garden 291 Apple-dryloK apparatus .. .. 131 Arrhenatherum avenactum .. 4'29 Bambusa Metake and Mazeli .. 317 Bmyai, or Sacred Tree of India .. 447 Barberry blight, the 50 Benthamia fragifera at Fota Is'and, Cork 215 Bridges for garden piths ... .. 323 Brom^Uads at hora3 374 Bromus inermii 429 Bryngwyo, conservatory at .. 215 Bushey Park, lake and fountaia in 467 Cabbage, "White Heart .. .. K9 Calanthe discolor 339 Calamus Lindenl .. . .. 393 Calla, double epathed .. .. 19 Campanula rapunculoidea .. .. 207 Cnrrot Guerande 109 Cattleya Skinnerl, a monster .. 507 Cercis canadensis 317 Cercis Sili4,606 214,642 524,683 3j6,543 Portntial. A zorca.Matleira 73,il79 67.081 133,128 81,245 Spain anti Canary Islan^Is 59,712 48,795 4(52,082 277,767 Uniteil States . . MMl 40,e04 1,065,076 387,190 P.ritisli Nurtli America .. f.5,150 37,004 222,128 90,077 British W. Iiulia Islamls 10,003 10,750 20,168 15,810 Otlier entuitries .. 12,630 9,863 14,197 7,581 Channel Islanils ,. — 1 50,584 20,574 Total _ 1,218,668 596,107 4,045,690 2218,913 Not only are the French, the Belgians, and the Germans increasing their area of fruit land, and improving their methods of cultivation, but the Americans are also planting fruit, and are adopt- ing, with characteristic zeal, new and improved systems of packing and preserving it. AsiERicAN Orchards. In the report of the American Commissioner of Agriculture for 1878 it is stated that there were more than 2,000,000 acres under cultivation as Apple orchards, and that in twenty years the value of the products had increased from i'l, 320,000 to over £10,000,000. " The abundance of the fruit crop, " the Commissioner writes, " is one of the most gratifying results of the progress of agricul- ture in this country. The demand for fruit in the markets at home and abroad has been equal to and is increasing with the supply. The prices have been generally remunerative both to the grower and to the dealer, and yet low enough to be within the reach of all. The daily use of fruit as food by our people is greatly to be desired." Besides Apples and many other small fruits, the Peach crop of the United States is estimated at the annual value of £11,500,000, so that it is not surprising that there is occasionally a superabund- ance of fruit, especially of Peaches and Apples, upon which pigs are fed. This waste has been in a great degree obviated by the ingenuity of the Americans in preserving the fruits and drying them. Drying Fruits and Vegetables. At Baltimore particularly, as well as in other cities which are centres for the accumulation of fruit, large establishments have been built and furnished with the most improved machinery and appliances for the rapid drying and evaporation of the watery parts of fruits. By an ingenious process the water is slowly separated from the solid parts, which at the same time undergo a chemical change, the acid and the starch being converted into Grape sugar. The Commissioner of Agriculture, in the report to which we have just alluded, says : " An Apple pie made from fruit eva- porated by these processes cannot be distinguished from one made of fresh fruit, and yet only one-half of the quantity of sugar is required to sweeten it ; and the same fact is true in regard to Toma- toes and all fruits and vegetables. ' Iron stoves and machines constructed on the principles for drying fruit, but portable, and costing only about £15, are used in many districts in the country far from towns. These will, it is said, thoroughly and perfectly dry as much fruit as a family can peel and slice in a day. All kinds of salad and delicate vegetables-such as Onions, Peas, Asparagus, Ce- lery, Lima Beans - are preserved by these new pro- cesses, returning, when placed in water at any time when desired for use, to their original full- ness, colour, flavour, and other properties. " In short,'' to use the words of the Commissioner of Agriculture, " the trade in dehydrated and pre- served vegetables and. fruits of all kinds has as- sumed enormous proportions, giving employment to thousands of persons, realising valuable profits, and supplying business through every artery of trade." Canadian Fruit. Much fruit is produced in Canada. The acreage of fruit land has been extended largely in the past fifteen years, and the greatest interest is taken by the Government and by the farmers themselves in the promotion of this industry. The main part of the fruit land is in Ontario, or Western Canada, in which it is said that any fruits can be grown that are produced in the temperate zone. Very fine Apples are grown in Ontario, better, it is alleged by the Canadians, than those that are grown in the United States. Canadian Apples have undoubtedly a great reputation in the Eng- lish markets. A large fruit grower in Ontano says : " There is nothing to prevent our Apples from competing successfully with English Apples if properly sent. We have beaten them in their own market with the Bibston Pippin. It sells in England at £3 per barrel." Another Apple, called the Swayzie Pomme Grise, grown chiefly in the Niagara district, has made the highest price ob- tained for Canadian Apples in England, as much as £5 per barrel having been made with it in Covent Garden Market. This Apple, of fine aromatic flavour, was probably introduced into Canada, where it has been long known, from France. Andre Leroy mentions it as a dessert Apple of the highest quality in his " Dictionnaire de Pcmo- logie." Forsyth believes that the trees were brought from Canada into this country. Not only do the Canadians exercise the greatest skill in the culti- vation of Apples, but they understand the art of storing them. Lord Sudeley's Fruit Farm. In England Lord Sudeley is the only land- owner who has taken up fruit farming in a thorough and businesslike manner. He has al- ready planted 500 acres, and is intending to plant 200 acres more at once. The land is a fairly free working, moderately good soil on the Lias for- mation. It was deeply steam ploughed and well manured, and standard trees of Apples, Pears. Cherries, Plums, and Damsons were put in 16 feet apart. 3000 Apple trees were planted of the best sorts, including Lord Suffield, Keswick Codlm, Grenadier, Cox's Orange Pippin, Cellmi, and Warner's King; 812 Pear trees have already been put in, consisting of Beurrc! de Capiaumont, Easter Reurre, Louise Bonne, Jargonelle, Beurru d'Aman- lis, Doyenn6 d'Ete, and other choice varieties Jan. 5, 1884.] THE GARDEN There are .'!2,000 Plum trees of ii different kinds, such as Diamond, Pond's Seedling, Early Orleans, Greengage, Victoria, and Autumn Compote. Of Damson trees there are 9000, nearly half of which are the sort known as Crittenden's, so largely grown in Kent, and the remainder are the Shrop- shire Prune, Cheshire, Common Prune, and Black. Only 522 Cherry trees have been hitherto put in, as Lord Sudeley is not quite certain as to whether they will flourish at Toddington where his fruit farm is situated. These are of the best kinds, such as the late and early Bigarreau, Black Heart, Kentish, and Flemish, and at present are looking very well. Gooseberry or Currant bushes and Strawberry plants are set between the standards, and in some cases Raspberry canes are put be- tween the Gooseberry and Currant bushes. There are over 50 acres of Black Currants, Raspberries, and Strawberries by themselves without stan- dards. There are 100 acres of Strawberry plants in all, and 60 acres of Raspberry canes. Some of the Apple trees are pyramids, which do very well. Lord Sudeley has not yet planted bush trees in any large quantity, but he intends to plant 80 acres of Plums in this way, by which the expenses of staking are avoided and injury from wind, and these trees come into bearing more quickly than standards. The Strawberries are the kinds known as the Stirling Castle and the American Scarlet, brought from Isleworth, where they are highly esteemed for preserving. Gooseberry bushes num- ber 130,000, and consist of no less than forty-five varieties. Those, however, which have been planted for the main crop are the Warrington, Lancashire Lad, Lancashire Prize, Crown Bob, and Whitesmith. No less than 228,000 Black Cur- rant bushes have been put in of the leading kinds, such as Lee's Prolific, Baldwin's Black, Black Naples, and Prince of Wales. Black Currants ap- pear to thrive well in the soil and climate of Tod- dington, and bid fair to be fertile sources of pro- fit, for no fruit is in greater demand or gives a better return when the bushes are planted on suit- a'jle land and properly managed. The Rasp- berries are chiefly Carter's Falstaff, and the Red Currants the Raby Castle and Scotch Red. Those who know anything about fruit growing will say that nothing could be more judicious than the selection of the sorts of the various fruits, and those who have seen the manner in which the plan- tation has been formed, thecultivation,the jam fac- tory, making the grower independent of markets, and the general arrangements, hold that nothing could have been better conceived and carried out. It is unique. Shelter, Osieks and Nubsekt. Belts of Poplar, Scotch Firs, and other quick- growing trees have been placed round the planta- tion to shelter it from the prevailing winds. Beds of Osiers have been formed on the banks of the little stream Isbourne, which have taken so well that all the baskets required for the fruit are now made on the estate. Ten acres more are to be planted at once with Osiers. A nursery for raising tree 3 and bushes has been formed in a convenient and well-sheltered spot, where stan- dards, pyramids, and bush trees of all sorts and sizes are seen, well grown, well trained, and worked upon the most approved stocks, as well as all descriptions of fruit bushes. This is most economical in the first course of the tiees, and prevents possible loss and disappointment through getting trees that are not true to name, or that have been badly worked and trained and starved on poor land, or land exhaused by con- tinuous cropping. It is a great mistake to think that it is better to have young fruit trees and bashes from poor soils than from rich. Like all young things under the sun, they require generous nurture, or they become stunted and prone to can- ker and premature decay. The owner of this plantation got his fruit trees from the very best sources and paid full prices, and he is rewarded by having a perfectly vigorous and healthy lot of trees and bushes, so much so that at this time among the iO,000 Plum and Damson trees there are not five in a thousand that have gone wrong. A barn and other buildings have been turned into a factory at a comparatively small cost. This has been let for ten years to Mr. Beach, the jam manu- facturer, who has arranged to take all the fruit grown on the .500 acres at fixed rates, and will either steam it down, or pulp it, or sell it fresh, as he may deem expedient. This factory is now in working order, and was inaugurated this sum- mer by a capital crop of Strawberries, estimated at ten tons. About 100 tons of fruit will be grown on the estate this year, which is a capital quan- tity considering that no frnit trees were planted until the autumn of 1880. 5108.— Pot Vines. — If your correspondent's Vines were well grown last season, they will now be furnished with strong fruiting canes. They ought to have been repotted about the end of the summer — a practice which admits of the pots being well filled with roots before the leaves drop. It is not usual to repot at this time of the year. It is not possible to say how many bunches each Vine ought to carry without seeing them. Three- year-old Vines might be large plants in 18-inch pots, or they might be very ordinary examples in 12-inch ones. The best way, perhaps, would be to remove all the bunches but one from each shoot as soon as they are formed. When the berries come to be thinned, it will be easy to determine how many bunches should be left to ripen. From six to nine might be a good crop. — J. Douglas. Gros Colmar Grape.— I called at a large Grape-growing establishment the other day in order to purchase some, and I found that at least five-sixths of the crop were of this variety ; there were also some very fine Alicantes. On asking the price, I was told the wholesale price in the market was 4s. per pound for the Alicantes and 5s. for Gros Colmar. On tasting both, I agreed with the grower that the Gros Colmar was the better flavoured of the two, though the Alicantes were the best coloured. The value of an article is just as much as it will bring in the market, and if Gros Colmar was the worst flavoured of Grapes, is it feasible that it would year after year command higher prices than some of the others 7 The Ali- cantes were very little inferior in size to the Gros Colmars and better coloured, and yet year after year they are sold for less money. How is this ? Is there any reason why Grapes highly esteemed in Covent Garden should not also be highly es- teemed in a private establishment ? They are both required for the same purpose. Lady Downes, grown under the same conditions as Gros Colmar, usually realises only about half the price which Gros Colmar fetches. The practical outcome of this seems to be, that what is most valued when hard cash is paid down for it will also be most valued if it has to be obtained in a more indirect way.— J. D. E. SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT. Yellow and white Baepberries.— As many ama- teur growers are anxious to liavc llasplien-ies with fruits of these colours, I may state that Ihe Yellow Glol^e and White Antwerp are e-xcellent sorts —J. M. Carter's Prolific Raspberry.— As now is the time to plant Raspliernes, it may ))e interesting to know that this is one of the l)est kinds in cultivation. It is a free prower, and an abund nt I)earer of very large, deep red, floely flavoured fruit.— J . MuiK, Margam. Vine leaves (O. /.'. M )—l could find no trace of iiisPL-ts on your Vine leaves except tlrree immature specimt ns of one of the snowy flies (Aleurodes). The leaves did not have the appearance of being injured by insects.— G S. S. Diseased Pear shoots ("ft. O. 5".).— The Pear tree slioot wliicli you sent was infested by an Acarus. Cut olT all the shoots wliicli are attacked and dress tlie tree with a mixture of soft soap and Tobacco w, 1884.] THE GAKDEN five or six members thoroughly acquainted with Orchids), and the other members of committee, if they vote at all, are greatly influenced by the opinion of these experts." It is certainly not satisfactory to find that the present system of doing business leaves it open (it cannot as at pre- sent managed be otherwise) for members to vote upon subjects on which they absolutely know nothing. Thus a subject may be enabled to obtain an award which it would not otherwise have secured or even deserved, and the public in the end are the losers. Let us hope — as the re- sult of the little discussion that has taken place on this subject — that something, however little, may be done to render this tribunal worthy of even greater respect than that which it undoubtedly com- mands. It has, as I have said, done good work in the past ; and it is capable, with some little setting of its machinery in order to adapt itself to the times, of even securing greater triumphs in the future. Q. EXHIBITIONS AT REGENT'S PARK. Not long since attention was drawn in The Garden to the necessity of giving horticultural shows a wider scope, and one way of doing that, it was suggested, was to provide open classes for exhibits not contemplated by the schedule. The Royal Botanic Society has always endeavoured more than any other to " uphold the dignity " of horticulture, as it is expressed in the Society's rules, at their exhibitions, to which they early tried to impart some degree of novelty both in the arrangements and character of the exhibits. In the schedule for 1 88i, which has just been sent to me, I see they have added considerably to what was formerly regarded as a merely nominal sec- tion more than anything else, viz., the econo- mic section, and the Society directs special at- tention to the new classes as of great interest at the present moment. The number of classes in this section are five, viz, — A collection of fresh-cut or growing specimens of medi- cinal and economic plants, native and exotic. 40s., 30s , 203. Group of plants suitable for a small greenhouse, costing not more than £10, retail. 100s., 60s., 408. 12 foliage plants suitable for growing in a dwelling room occasionally lighted by gas ; si.\ varieties. 60s., 40i., 20s. 12 flowering plants suitable for growing in a dwelling room occasionally lighted by gas ; six varieties. 60s., 403., 203. 12 plants growing In hanging baskets suitable for growing in a dwelling room occasionally lighted by gas ; six varie- ties. 60s., 40b., 20s. Such exhibits as these will no doubt produce useful results, although they might have been a little more varied ; but, in addition, the Society has, within the last two years, added the following clause to one of the rules ; " The judges are in- vited to recommend to the committee for extra prizes exhibits of special merit, although they may not be included in the schedule " — a clause which is wide enough in its scope, and the inter- pretation of which will lie with the judges only ; and this is the point. It is right enough that such matters should be left to the judges, but it might happen, and probably would occasionally happen, that the judges might not understand their duties in such a case, and either pass over such exhibits from want of appreciation of their purpose and utility, or estimate them wrongly. In fact, the purely practical gardening element is the only one represented as a rule, and it would be better if in some cases some of the judges were drawn from another section of the community, provided they were competent men. There are numbers of people outside gardening ranks, as our garden literature shows, well qualified in every way to discharge the duties of a judge, and who by their education, position, and freedom from all precon- ceived notions and prejudices, might perhaps im- ■. part rather broader views to certain aspects of 'gardening than sometimes prevail. Curiously enough, since the above was vrritten I see Mr. G. F. Wilson suggesting in The Gahden (p. .583) a similar thing, viz., the introduction of more amateurs into the South Kensington Com mittees, with a view to a more judicious bestowal of the certificates awarded by the Royal Horti cultural Society. What professional gardeners have to realise is the fact that they alone do not now constitute the who'e, or even the majority, of the gardening community. The vast host of amateurs — great and small — many of them not only skilled and practical gardeners on their own account, but of superior scientific attainments and wide plant knowledge, have a large stake in horticultural pursuits, and I, for one, should like to see them Lave a fair share in the work in all its branches. J. s. W. FLOWER Garden. HARDY FLOWERS IN JANUARY. As a fitting new year's gift to the great advocate for and expounder of the advantages of culti- vating hardy flowers, I send a collection gathered from the open ground this morning (January 2, 1884). These flowers will serve as an illustration of what our climate occasionally permits us to enjoy in mid-winter. You will see that I have not merely sent single flowers, but bunches of each kind, amounting altogether in species to forty. Tussilago fragrans is unusually fine and fragrant at this moment. Violets are in great profusion, especially Marie Louise, Victoria, and Russian. Wallflowers, too, are blooming, particularly the semi-double sweet-scented kind, which is in full bloom, and, associated with Violets, makes a charm- ing button-hole. Iberis gibraltarica hybrida is and has been blooming all the season. Hellebores, too, are fine, especially niger maximus. Primroses and Polyanthuses are producing bloom too freely. The Cowslip is Primula macrocalyx, the earliest and most prolonged bloomer of its race, and as my speciality is early flowers, I am making it a seed parent. You will be surprised to see such fresh and brilliant Roses from our exposed bor- ders. The fragrance, but not the beauty, of Chi- monanthus fragrans will invite your attention, but this shrub, like Magnolia grandiflora, two buds of which I send, is from a wall. The following are the names of the shrubs and flowers sent : — Anemones Primroses Cowslips Tussilago fragrans Violets, three sorts Saxifraga ligulata Pansies Limnanthes Douglas! Sweet Alyssum Alyssum saxatile Alyssum argenteum Helleboinis maximus Myosotis dissitillora Statice Erica carnea alba Erica Massoni Achillea lutea Daisies, double Shrttbs, Jasminum nudiflorum Chimonanthus fragrans Arbutus Unedo Iberis gibraltarica hybrida Rliododendrons Scabious, German Escallonias Vinca minor Berberis Darwiui Stocks, double LaiuTistinus Wallflowers, Belvoir Castle Daphne Laureola Wallflowers, double Daphne Fioniana Lamium maculatum Magnolia grandiflora Potentilla Andromeda floribunda Pyrethrums, double China Roses. Helleborus niger Beleoir. W. Ingram. *,* The flowers sent fully bear out all that Mr. Ingram has said in reference to them. — Ed. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. Andromeda (Cassiope) tetragona is now looking as fresh as Watercress, and that under very different conditions from those it is most commonly said to require. I find it to flourish best in the stifEest loam in my garden — a yellow loam, somewhat lightened with sand, and a very heavy dressing of stable manure (quite 6 in. thick) given four years ago. At that time I considered it too stiff for Carnations, Dahlias, and Daffodils. It works pretty freely now, but bakes hard in summer. The position is the most moist I can give at the bottom of a garden well inclined to the south. In such soil this charming dwarf shrub grows freely, keeps beautifully green in colour, and flowers well — the last-named property being anything but constant when grown in peat, though otherwise in good form. The still rarer species A. fastigiata never grew so well with me as it has done this summer, in the early part of which I put it in a bed that had been cleared of Daisies, the soil being similar to that just de- I scribed. Who that knows the distinct character of these little evergreen shrubs, and their exqui- site Lily-of-the- Valley-like flowers, would not wish to have them in their gardens ? And why not, when they can be grown so easily. A. tetragons never proved a stubborn grower with me in a boggy corner, where it had sandy peat or leaf mould and a little shade, but it did not flower so well under these conditions as in loam. Most amateurs to whom I have spoken about this shrub never seem to think of loam for it. It is as independent of heath soil as Erica carnea, and it spreads so freely that I intend making an edging of it, feeling sure that a three years' experience of the loam treatment has amply demonstrated its suitable- ness for such a purpose. It likes plenty of mois- ture, and as a rule edging plants get an extra share of that. Whilst on this point, I may men- tion another method of treatment which I have followed from the time when I gave 2s. 6d. for my first tuft. The little rooted divisions I plunge in water to keep them fresh whilst trenches are being prepared in blackish soil for them. They are about 6 inches deep, like miniature Celery trenches, replacing the bottom soil with some of the best therein. After dashing a little fine earth over the wet fibres, the small pieces are planted in the trenches a few inches apart, and the extra moisture which they get under such conditions seems to help them on wonderfully. Erigeron rosaum. — I am not sure that the plant which I grow under the name of E. caucasi- cum and this are not identical ; at any rate all the particulars furnished by " Veronica " belong to my plant, which is remarkable for no quality more than that of persistent blooming. Though a very hardy and free-growing herbaceous plant, keeping green, however, through the winter with me, it is seldom met with in gardens, and from the fact that growers of good collections of hardy flowers have often noticed it as a stranger to them, I think it is not so common as it soon might and ought to be ; here it spreads into pale green dense mats of foliage from 4 inches to 6 inches high, and for four or five months is almost hidden by nume- rous slender flower -stems, furnished with heads in loose bunches, and about 1 foot or 18 inches high. The flower-heads are so freely produced that they last from June to October, but some of the partially spent flower-stems are removed so as to admit light to the roots and foliage. A new and vigo- rous crop soon fills up the gap, and supplies cut bloom of a most pleasing character to the latest period of outdoor flowers. I well recollect flower- ing my first plant of this through the winter with the help of a bell-glass tilted, in order to see its bloom, which was near opening when frost set in. The heads in the bud state and when nearly de- veloped have a bird's-nest-like shape. Later the florets spring from their positions, angled like spi- der's legs, and rest across the pale yellow disk ; then in another day or so they assume a feathery appearance and a rosy purple colour, and, but for the softness and narrowness of the florets, would most closely correspond in form with the field Daisy. E. caucasicum seems to have been intro- duced in 1821. In cultivation it increases by self- sown seed, and otherwise proves thoroughly peren- nial. Whether or not this is the E. roseum men- tioned by " Veronica," it is at all events one of the most useful and beautiful of alpine-looking flowers that can be grown. Senecio pulcher. — Plants of this, with- out special treatment, can hardly, I fear, be said to be reliable for producing a fair complement of bloom. I mean such plants as are left in borders from year to year. These, according to my expe- rience, are left in the lurch from having thrown up their bold flower-stems too late, so that but very few heads are fully developed, and in by far the majority of cases there has been no colour at all. On this account, in Yorkshire at any rate, this Groundsel is not likely to become so popular as it otherwise would be, and, in order to obtain its flowers earlier, will have to be classed with and treated like such plants as Stokesia cyanea, Schizo- stylis coccinea, and the Belladonna Lily, all of which are much helped by raised beds, a liberal mixture of sand, and sunny, .sheltered positions. 6 THE GARDEN [Jan. 1884 idaxifrages. — Where a good number of these are grown, there is no lack of verdure in the form of neat cushions of various hues ; the rock garden more especially scarcely looks like winter, and the flowers still with us, though in small numbers, such as those of Geums, Scabious, Daisies, Polyan- thus, Wallflowers, Hepaticas, Cyclamens, Stern- bergias, and Carnations, are pleasing auxiliaries towards the mid-winter interest of our gardens. Since the storm of the 11th and 12th ult. foUage of all kinds has been much brighter than usual, the rain of that terrible night having had much to do with such a result. John Wood. Woodvillf, Kirlistall. PLANTS IN FLOWER. Double white Bramble —This is really a beautiful shrub at all times when in l>loom, and more particularly in winter. It is now flowering profusely at Moore Hall with Mr. Huntley, from whom we have received a long l»ranch completely wTeathed with white rosette-like blossoms and buds. Tritelela uniflora.— The pretty lilac-tinted variety (lilacina) of this little Chilian bulbous plant braves our cold, damp winters well, and even flowers during the shortest days. Messrs. Paul send us from their hardy plant nursery at Broxbourue some flowers of it scarcely, if at all, inferior to those produced in spring. Marie Louise Violet.— From Major Bar- ton's garden, at Straffan, Mr. Bedford has sent ns a charming bunch of this lovely Violet, unques- tionably one of the best for winter blooming. There is a great difference between well-grown Violets, such as these are, and the miserable speci- mens with which one often meets even of this va- riety. Violet culture is evidently becoming better understood and more generally practised than it hitherto has been. Ohrysanthemums at Christmas. — I must apologise for having forgotten till nearly too late to send you a bloom of that most excellent white .Japanese Chrysanthemum, Mdlle. Jloulise, which was remarkable by its absence at the London shows. The blooms I send are side blooms from plants not disbudded, as we find it such a free and continuous bloomer of dwarf habit, that we prefer in this instance the natural to the disbudded growth. You will see it always fills up in the centre, and never shows an eye.— Edward H. WOODALL. *ti* The blooms sent were of medium size, of the purest white, and very full of petals. Evi- dently a fine kind when seen at its best earlier in the season.— Ed. Bose Queen of Bedders.— Outdoor Roses at this season are such a rarity that it was with special interest we looked upon a beautiful gather- ing of buds which Mr. Charles Noble sent us of his Queen of Bedders. The flowers were of course not so fine as those of summer and autumn, but the fact of their existence at this season proved the remarkable persistent flowering character of this variety. The colour is a deep maroon velvety crimson. It is named Queen of Bedders on ac- count of its dwarf spreading growth and extreme floriferousness. Late Ohrysanthemums.— Even at this late date for Chrj-santhemums the nurseries of Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, appear to be gay with them, judging by a beautiful gathering of them which they have sent us during the past week. The varieties in question consisted of very fine and varied sorts, and we singled out from among the following as the most note- worthy : Virginale, a lovely white Anemone- flowered variety ; Splendens, a large and fine Japanese sort, with long broad florets of a rich yellow; Star of Wyke, small flowered white re- curved ; Grandifiorum, a bright yellow Japanese sort ; Comete Biela, a small recurved flower of a peculiar bronzy tint ; The Mikado, a Japanese kind, like golden tassels ; Mrs. C. Carey, a white Ja- panese, with yellow centre. Begonia eoootrana.- It is to be hoped that in the efforts being made to cross this plant with other species its own intrinsic beauty will not be forgotten. At this time of year I know cf no Begonia, and indeed few other plants, that will vie with this Socotra Begonia for beauty of colour and grace of form. The softest rose sparkling in the sunlight with little crystals which cover the surface of the petals, a graceful drooping panicle, justpeeping beyond the Mushroom-shaped foliage, and the size of the flowers are charms of no mean kind. Appearing in the winter, too, and continuing in bloom for several months, finally going to rest for the summer when its gay brethren of the west — the tuberous species — are in full flower and in favour everywhere, this pretty little gem coming to us from the parched deserts of that solitary island in the Indian Ocean, where it was the sole representative of its family, has that in its singular habit and beautiful flowers which appeals to one for favour, and deserves it. I have had a few flowers in water for a fortnight, and they are good yet. B. socotrana is a really first-rate winter flowering plaat. — B. Bomarea conferta. — This newly intro- duced greenhouse climber bids fair to bear out all that was said of its beauty when first put into commerce. A fine specimen of it in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden, at Eurford Lodge, Dorking, one of the first plants distributed, is now beauti- fully in flower, carrying several large drooping clusters of its orange-red blossoms, each bunch consisting of some dozens of blooms. The plant trained under the roof of a cool, airy greenhouse has a pretty effect, particularly at this season ; its foliage is very bright green and the long slender stems ramble and hang in a graceful manner. The habit of this, flowering in midwinter, will con- siderably heighten its value as an ornamental plant, for it is just at this season when green- houses are most in want of good climbing flower- ing plants. St. Brlgid's Christmas Rose.— Now that the storm raised in reference to the name of this plant has subsided, let us turn to the plant itself, about whose beauty as a variety of the old type there can be no question—" Let him name it who can ; its beauty remains the same." There is a plant of it in the Cape house at Kew growing in a pot, and bearing nine flowers of the purest paper-white ; hardly a tinge of green is to be seen, even at the base of the petals, and the form of the flowers is perfect. To me this plant, which hears a label upon which Mr. Burbidge's name and " St. Brigid's Rose '' are conspicuously displayed, is a long way superior to what I have always seen as the Christmas Rose. I suppose Helleborus niger varies a great deal, and that I have hitherto been acquainted with the worst varieties. The thought suggested by that 6-inch-pot plant bearing nine flowers of the purest white and most delicate sub- stance was, that a thousand such plants at this time of year would be almost a fortune to a market grower. I never thought that of the old form. — B. From Capri.—" I send you by post a few plants of Lithospermum rosmarinifolium, com- mon on the rocky coast of this beautiful island the most brilliant blue flower I know, not except- ing Gentiana verna." A tiny bit of " true blue " is always welcome among garden blossoms, espe- cially so since Grant-Allen tells us that blue is the latest and highest development of all floral colour, and that its presence has been brought about by the most assthetic members — tiie Oscar Wildes, in fact, of the insect world I Interesting as all this colour-mystery is to us, I should like to know what Professor J. O. Westwood, Sir John Lubbock, or others have to say on this knotty question. Sufficient for me and our gardens is tills beautiful and thoughtful gift of the " Rose- mary-leaved Stone seed,'* with its vivid blue flowers, so like Rosemary, in point of fact, that I instinctively sniffed at the foliage " only to be deceived," since its leaves have no fragrance. — F. W. B. Mid-winter flo-wers.— As a proof of the mildness of the season at the foot of the Cheviot Hills, I send you a few flowers taken from an open border on the last day of December. You will see that both Clematis and Honeysuckle, which are growing in sheltered nooks, are also making growth. I may add that Gorse is in bloom here and there on the hills, and that Snowdrops are just about to appear; these and Daffodils have pushed above the ground. — R. Stevens, Pantoji. *^* With this note came a fine gathering of the following flowers, in good sized bunches and in excellent condition, viz ; Roses, General Jacque- minot, as fine almost as in July, Gloire de r>ijon, and another Noisette ; Wallflowers, single, orange and red, and growths stout, aud foliage healthy ; Pansies, charming bunches of fancy sorts ; Stocks, double, of various colours ; Polyanthuses, gold- laced and self, both fine; pot Marigolds and Mig- nonette as fine almost as in summer ; Jasminum nudiflorum, double Daisies, and Christmas Roses. Such a rich gathering as this shows that the cli- mate of Northumberland is not nearly so bad as we southerners generally suppose it to be. We much doubt if a similar picking of flowers could be gathered now even in Sussex. -Ed.] Garden Flora. PLATE 121. THE TIGKIDIAS. (WITH A COLOURED PLATE OF TISEIDIA PAVONIA ALBA.*) The white Tiger Flower — " this season's beauty " —an accidental seedling, originated with M. Hen- nequin, of Angers, some ten years ago. By him it was carefully fostered, and, after several narrow escapes of being lost, was distributed to the public. It bloomed in this country for the first time in 1883, and great was the astonishment of all who saw it. We had been expecting to see a poor, washed-out, dirty yellow flower, when a lovely large creamy white flower burst upon oar view. Like good wine, it needed no " bush." Its beau- ties were patent to all, and all who saw it vied with one another in praising it. The flower is larger than that of either Pavonia or conohi- flora, and it lasts a little longer in perfection. It is also slower in opening ; while comparing the bud with that of Pavonia, one would ex- pect it to open a day earlier than it does. As far as we can judge, it is as robust as Pavonia. It is unfortunate that the the Tiger Flowers are so evanescent. Could some method be in- vented by which these dazzling beauties coold be made to last but one short four-and-twenty hours, how startling would be the effects pro- duced ; but, alas ! their beauty is but short- lived ; rising with the sun, they are faded and gone before he sets. Phcenix-like, however, they rise again. In a day or two another gay blossom takes the place of that which has departed, and this again in its turn is succeeded by three or fotir others, T. Pavonia is a native of Mexico, where it is called Ocoloxochitl. It is consideredto be medicinal, and it was on this account that it was sent to Europe by Hernandez, physician to Philip II. of Spain, when he was employed by the Spanish govern- ment to enquire into " the virtues "' of the plants of the New World. It was not introduced into England till 1796. It has also been found in Peru, and my brother, Mr. W. H. Wallace, when travel- ling in S. America in 1878, collected a form of Pavonia in the vicinity of Bogota. There the flowers attained a larger size than with us and were much deeper in colour than we are accus- tomed to see here, but the bulbs he brought home produced flowers wliich showed no appreciable difference from those of the ordinary form. P. * Drawn io the New Plant and Bulb Company'a nursery. Lion Walk, Colchester, July 6, 1883. HE GARDEN. ""^lA PAVONIA ALBA. Jau. 1884.] THE GARDEN conchiflora is a native of Mexico, whence it was introduced in 1825. The other members of this genus are — Pavo- nia, bright scarlet, with orange markings in the centre. This has somehow acquired the title of grandiflora, and is usually called Tavonia grandiflora. T. conchiflora, sometimes called T. speciosa conchiflora, is a smaller and more tender species than Pavonia; it has j'ellow petals and chocolate markings. There are also several va- rieties of these, notably a variety of Pavonia with a slightly smaller flower, but darker colouring, and about 1836 a Mr. J. Horsfield, near Man- chester, raised a seedling between Pave nia and conchiflora (see Paxton, vol. xiv., p. 51), and named it Watkinsoni. This was nearly interme- diate between them, both in vigour and colouring. T. conchiflora is found in several shades, from citron almost to orange. Those who grow Tigri- dias for noarket usually grow bcth Pavonia and conchiflora ; it is, therefore, ditficnlt to keep pollen from the former from fertilising some of the flowers of the latter, and thus the deeper colour in some of the varieties of conchiflora is accounted for. Tigridias succeed best on warm light soils, and when planted should have a liberal supply of sand, to prevent any water from lodging about them, of which they are very impatient. Though hardy in some favoured places, it is best to lift the bulbs in November, and after carefully drying them, to store them in some cool dry place for the winter, protected from frost, and to plant them again in March. Great care should be used in drying them, for if this operation be carelessly performed, the bulbs rot off at the base, and the stock becomes woefully small. C Ic/u-ster. E.A.Wallace. SEASONABLE WORK. FLORAL DECORATIONS. About this season a somewhat heavy strain will be put upon the cut flower supply, especially in gardens where the conveniences for bringing plants into flower are not nearly equal to the de- mand, ft is, therefore, essential to economise to the utmost in such cases, and those who have the arrangement of the decorations can greatly aid in this direction in moie ways than one. In the first place a judicious use must be made of the ma- terial at command (both flowers and foliage), healing in mind that an artistic effect is, not pro- duced by excessive crowding, nor by indiscrimi- nate mixing of various varieties of flowers or colours. We have seen arrangements which would have looked much better when finished if ha!f, ai.d in some cases two-thirds, of the flowers had been removed and a trifle more foliage used instead. In the second place it frequently hap- pens tha^ large parties are held in quick succes- sion, and where only a day or two intervenes, some at least of the flowers used can be kept over from one to the other by removing thtm to a cooler place, and where possible immersing the stems deeptr in water. This should be seen to as quickly as possible after the festivities are brought to a close, for if left for a few hours longer than is necessary in a heated room some will be past recovery, especially if they have been arranged with- out either water, wet Moss, or sand. The fashion prevailing in some places of laying or grouping them on the table cloths for dinner parties is, to say 11)9 least, most wasteful and unnatural. Foliage of fair persistency may be kept in good condition for future use, and where a large quantity is in request we would recom- mend the dwarf and compact growing Davallias to be cultivated in quantity as one would the Maiden-hair Fern. In the third place, if any con- siderable space intervenesbetween the time when the flowers are cut and when arranged, caused either by having to be packed for transit or other unforeseen occurrences, they should all have the ends of the stems cut afresh. This is frequently overlooked, but is of more importance than many imagine. Lastly, but certainly not least, is the fact that those who have charge of decorations should also have a knowledge of the natural growth of the flowers which they are called upon to arrange. Work of this kind is often performed by persons who have no knowledge of or taste for arrangement. Gardeners have to produce the material, but we know that when this has been done in many cases to the utmost possible extent, an utter disregard has been paid to the quantity used and the decorations have been carried out without taste or skill. The producer, in short, often gets blamed when be least deserves to be. Where gardeners are allowed to perform such work themselves, they are able to do it with much less waste of material than when it is entrusted to others. FLOWER GARDEN. This being a slack time of year in the flower garden, a good opportunity is afforded for looking thoroughly through shrubberies to see what re- quires thinning, for although evergreens should not be moved now, it generally happens that the commoner kinds encroach on others, and if not looked to and cut away, soon damage them in such a manner as to permanently injure them and quite spoil their beauty. To show off as they ought, each plant should stand clear of the other, and if there is any bare ground between, the space may easily be furnished and beautified by planting any of the hardy kinds of bulbs, such as Snowdrops, Daffodils, &c., and the more open parts near walks with Crocuses, Hyacinths, Primroses, Aubrietias, Wallflowers, or anything of that kind that will stand and take care of themselves. The mistake that is generally made in the formation of shrub- beries is in following the higgledy-piggledy sys- tem of planting instead of making a proper selec- tion of suitable subjects, and arranging them according to their habit and character, giving them plenty of room to grow to their natural size with- out encroaching on each other, a plan that should always be adopted, as then the filling in between may be done with any common material such as Laurels, which can be gradually cut away as the others extend. By pursuing this coarse, much after trouble in regulating and re-arranging is saved, as the plants being put in suitable posi- tions at first there is no occasion to interfere with or molest them again. The pruning requisite for deciduous trees and shrubs consists mainly in thinning out of the branches where they are crowded by crossing and intersecting each other, and beyond this and the removal of dead and de- caying wood, the less of the knife the better. Whatever cuts are made should always be close to a bud or shoot, as then there is no dying back, and the wound quickly heals over. Although it is not desirable to prune established plants, a shortening in and reduction of the head is often a great help to large trees, fresh transplanted, especially if they are not well rooted, as it strikes a more equal balance as it were between the two, and gives the tops a chance of receiving what sap they require to keep the bark fresh and plump. What interferes with newly-moved trees and shrubs more than anything else and prevents their taking fresh hold is the want of proper sup- port, without which they are ever on the move and the sport of every wind that blows, which sways them to and fro, and chafes off the tender fibres as they form by the straining and friction of the roots as they are pulled and pushed backwards and forwards in the ground. This being so, it will be seen how important it is that they be securely staked and tied to hold them fast in their places, which, if the plants are large, can easiest be done by using three poles tripod fashion and bringing the upper ends so as to catch the stem of the tree at about two-thirds its height. To prevent any chafing of the bark the stem should be well pro- tected by a good packing of hay under the supports, or by the use of old pieces of carpet, which are perhaps the better of the two. For trees on lawns where neatness is a consideration, stout galvanised wire may be used instead of stakes, and if the lower ends are made fast to stubbs driven into the earth, such supports answer the purpose well, and, besides being neat, they have another advantage, inasmuch as they last a long time and never re- quire renewal. INDOOR PLANTS. IPOM.EAS. — The distinct - flowered I. Hors- fallias is a plant that deserves a place in every warm stove. The limited amount of growth which it makes in many cases renders it preferable to many stronger growing climbers. It is seen to the best advantage where allowed to twine round strings or wires placed longitudinally over a path. Its season of blooming varies considerably with the amount of heat kept up. Where a high tempe- rature is maintained and the flowering is now over a portion of the strongest shoots should be well cut back towards the collar of the plant. If the strongest are not treated in this way annually the plant is liable to get naked at the bottom and it is much better to effect this shortening in as soon as the flowering is over than to defer it until some growth is made. I. Leari is suitable for a large house where there is much roof to furnish. Under a high temperature this kind begins to grow early, and to keep it in bounds it should be well cut in or headed back completely each winter. Where there is enough heat to start it early into growth and it is thus headed in at once, it will bloom con- siderably sooner in the season than if the shorten- ing back was deferred until later. Passiflokas and Tacsonias.— The strong growing kinds of these, such as P. quadran- gularis and others of the like warm section, should have their heads well reduced each season, otherwise there is no proportion between the amount of shoot growth they make and the quan- tity of flowers produced. With a view to keep the old plants from their base upwards continually fur- nished with healthy leaves, it is well to sever the shoots at different points ; the strongest may be reduced to as near the base of the plant as it will permit, cutting in the others at various lengths, which is far better than shortening all back to one point, as it keeps the entire plant annually renewed. As a matter of course the shoot reduction now necessary with almost all the family depends upon their season of blooming, still further regulated by the heat they are subjected to, as on this their late or early flowering much depends. All the late summer or autumn blooming kinds should at once receive all the cutting in they require, as if allowed to make growths before their heads are so reduced it is manifestly a double loss both in wasting time and the energies of the plants. In houses where there is plenty of room T. manicata, T. moUissima, T. pubescens, and T. sanguinea are all worthy of a place. Hexacentkis. — Alihough H. mysorensis and H. lutea (the former the handsomer) are some- times grown in a hot stove, still, like a good many other climbers that come under the head of warm stove plants, they do better in an intermediate temperature, as when so treated the flowers they produce are greater in proportion to the shoot growth. The time of these plants blooming is in a great measure regulated by the treatment they receive ; when not kept very warm they flower much later and freer. At this season they should be kept much drier at the roots than many things ; no more water should be given than will just keep the foliage from drooping. Thunbekgias. — Autumn bloomers, such as T. Harrisi and T. laurifolia, which are strong, vigorous growers, should have a great portion of their tops removed as soon as the flowering is over. If these are not cut in closer than plants that make less annual growth, they get into a wild, straggling, bare-stemmed condition, un- sightly in appearance, with a disposition to en- croach upon and overgrow other things, and do not in themselves give a corresponding return of flowers for the head-room they occupy. THE GAEDEN [Jan. 5, 1884. Cissus AND DioscoREAS. — Plants of this class, which are especially useful for clothing walls where anything of a flowering character would not have a chance of blooming much, should be cut close in, especially the best of the Cissus, C. discolor, which ought to have its head in a great measure renewed each season, the old leaves having a faded, dull appearance. All the climbers above named, if in the least affected with insects, should be taken off the wires and dipped in a strong so- lution of insecticide, repeating the operation two or three times in the course of ten days, They will bear it much stronger now than when soft young growth is present, and the advantage of having the plants clean to commence the season with will be apparent later on, not only in the diminution of labour, but in their better condition. ORCHIDS. Cattleya house. — Besides the winter-flower- ing Cattleyas, a few other distinct and good Orchids help to make the houses gay at this season, not the least important of these being the Zygopetalums. The old - established and well- known Z. Mackayi, with its substantial spikes of large sweet-scented flowers, is always much esteemed. Most of the species are of large growth, and to do them well they require considerable space to develop their broad leaves. These plants succeed well arranged amongst ordinary stove plants in a temperature of 55°. Z. crinitum cceruleum is a very beautiful variety, too, now in flower ; -the most beautiful part of the flower is the creamy white lip, which is streaked with bright blue. They do not require much attention, merely to wash the leaves occasionally with soft- soapy water. Pilumna nobilis and P. fragrans with their pure white flowers, relieved with an orange blotch at the base of the lips, should be grown in every collection. These plants like plenty of light and air, when they will produce their flower-spikes very freely. The well-known Coslogyne cristata and its varieties alba and citrina will soon be producing their much valued flowers ; as the spikes develop themselves, the plants should be placed near the light to add substance to the flowers. C. barbata is much admired by some, although we do not belong to the number. Our plants had formed their spikes in the Cattleya house, but they have now been removed to the warm house to develop the flowers. This species likes plenty of water during the growing season, and even now, although the pseudo-bulbs are formed, we water freely. One of the most strik- ing objects at present is Vanda tricolor and its varieties. If the temperature for this section of Vandas ranges from 50° to 65°, they seem to do remarkably well in span-roofed houses running north and south ; at present they should not have very much water, just enough to keep the Sphag- num from drying up. It is now time to make preparations for potting them, an operation which ought to be performed this month. They ought to be repotted into clean, well-drained pots in dried Sphagnum, mixed with plenty of broken potsherds and charcoal, finishing off the surface with live Sphagnum and finer drainage material. After the potting the house must be kept closer and rather more moist. Cool house.— The amount of attention re- quired by the occupants of this house at present is of the simplest kind, especially in those houses where they have a north aspect. It requires but little artificial heat to keep up a temperature of 45° or 50°, and the atmosphere in such a house is kept sufficiently moist with a sprinkling of water about once in a day, the morning being the best time. The flowers of most species of Odontoglossum last a long time in full beauty if they have the right atmosphere and temperature. Somevarieties of O. crispum will last for two months and even more. On the other hand, it is not wise to allow the spikes to remain too long ; as soon as it is seen the bulbs are beginning to shrivel the spikes should be cut off. Many a fine variety has been sadly crippled by the plants producing flowers too freely, and their being allowed to remain on the plants^too long. The cultivator will be interested in watching the development of the many species and varieties just throwing up their flower-spikes, Ada aurantiaca, with its spikes of bright orange- red coloured flowers just showing with the joung growths, is a distinct and desirable Orchid to grow with others for its colour. Its bulbs do not seem to be quite so hardy as those of the New Granadian Odontoglossums. The very fine Onci- dium macranthum, now showing its spikes as the growths are finishing up, requires to be watched every night. We find that even if we get our houses quite free from slugs and snails as soon as we commence potting again, minute specimens of various species are to be seen feeding voraciously on the unusual diet of succulent Orchid spikes just pushing out of their sheaths. These trouble- some pests seem to lurk in the Sphagnum, and are introduced in the potting. For this reason it is best to do all the potting and surface dressing at one time, and to be extra vigilant for a month or so afterwards, and if it is necessary to repot isolated specimens during the season, the plants should be well watched at night afterwards. We will most likely be having cold drying winds between now and April, and in that case some care is necessary to prevent their withering effects on the tender growths of the Orchids. We have heard of cool Orchids doing well placed close to ventilators constantly open ; but if the whole truth was known, it would, we doubt not, be found that they were shut in all cases to exclude frosty winds, or cold winds without frost. There ought always to be some means of airing the houses without exposing the plants to the direct effects of wind. FRUIT. Strawberries in pots. — When the earliest batch of plants begin to throw up their flower- stems place them in the lightest and most airy part of the house where they can have a free cir- culation of air to prevent the leaf-stalks from be- coming drawn, and to favour fertilisation of the flowers when they begin to open. Give them suf- ficient water to keep the soil in a healthy growing state. Let forcing be carried on by day, followed by complete rest at night, when the temperature may be allowed to fall to 40° in severe weather, and 45*^ or more when these figures can be main- tained wi thout having recourse to fire-heat. Sy- ringe with warm water when the day temperature begins to rise and again when gleams of sunshine favour, shutting up with a rise, but re-open the ventilators in time to prevent condensation of moisture on the glass, and damp the walls and other surfaces in lieu of overhead syringing when the flowers begin to open. From the present time and onwards two kinds may be drawn into the forcing pit fortnightly for keeping up the supply of ripe fruit, the number of plants being regu- lated by the stock in reserve, and, if at command, a light, shallow pit in which there is some latent heat may also be filled with such mid-season kinds as Sir Charles Napier, President, and Paxton for drawing from as plants are wanted. In a pit of this kind, although artificial warmth is hardly perceptible, an excitable plant like the Strawberry will make good progress through the early stage, as it will have time to emit fresh surface roots into the top-dressing and to perfect every organ before it is taken into the forcing house. Late kinds from which fruit is to be gathered in April and May must have full exposure to the elements, unless the weather is very wet, when the lights can be tilted, or very severe, when a few Fern fronds may be spread over the crowns in prefer- ence to covering the glass with mats. If well plunged in leaves or old tan, water will hardly be needed, but drought must be regarded as the worst enemy that can overtake the Strawberry from the day it is potted till it ripens off its fruit. Pines. — By this time the pit in which the first Queens are to be fruited will have been cleansed and filled with new tan or leaves for giving the requisite bottom heat, and as some time will elapse before it will be safe to plunge the pots, , now full of healthy roots, let it be turned oc- casionally and defer moving the plants until the thermometer denotes a declining heat of 90°. Then place each pot in a shallow basin and defer filling it with the tan until the heat caused by the disturbance has subsided. Meantime give the plants a little water at short intervals to bring the soil into a growing state, but carefully guard against a too free use of this element until the roots are fairly on the move. With a strong bottom heat in the house the day temperature may range from 80° to 85°, with atmospheric moisture in accordance with the state of the weather, and it may descend to 70° at night, when some slight external covering will economise and reduce the necessity for fire heat. When the early starters have been drawn, rearrange the pits, but avoid adding fresh fermenting material to the general stock of fruiters, as they will require another month's rest, and disturbance of the oldest material generally causes a slight revival, which will do no harm. Examine the different stocks of successions particularly when the pots are small, full of roots, and in near proximity to the bottom heat pipes. Give water if necessary to prevent the soil from parting from the sides, and moisten the surface of the bed to prevent a check, which might lead to premature starting when more heat is applied in the spring. Cucumbers. — Where provision has not been made for economising fire heat by the use of good fermenting material and covering at night it is more than probable that spider, and possibly mildew, will have attacked the plants. For the destruction of the first the best remedy is light cropping, good feeding, and regular syringing with a weak solution of soft soap and Gishurst com- pound or clear sulphur water. The second, unless the ventilation is imperfect, may be kept in check by the use of dry sulphur applied to the foliage with a fine dredger, and syringed off again with warm water after an interval of twenty-four hours. If these troublesome pests do not quickly give way to the above treatment, the skilful cultivator will seek deeper for the cause, as a low root tempera- ture, insufficient water, or an impure, stagnant atmosphere may be leading to the certain destruc- tion of the plants by fostering the enemies. In some places canker is very troublesome, and it frequently happens that the sudden collapse of the plant is the first iritimation that anything is going wrong: the usual remedy is quicklime and sulphur, which may be well rubbed into the parts affected, but prevention being better than cure, a liberal admixture of old lime rubble, charcoal, and rough fibrous turf should be used in the formation of the compost ; the stems of the plants should not be buried in the hills or pots ; and last, but not least, the admission of fresh air near the level of the bed will have a beneficial effect in purify- ing the atmosphere. The temperature of the fruiting house must be regulated by external con- ditions, as it is of no use trying to force the plants beyond their strength ; a minimum of 68° with a rise of 10° to 15° from sun and eternal heat by day, will therefore be sufficient for the present, and a slight increase upon these figures may be made as days increase in length and brightness. Let the bottom heat range from 80° to 85° ; add fresh, well worked Oak leaves and short stable manure to the beds as the heat shows signs of de- clining, and supply atmospheric moisture by fill- ing the evaporating pans with diluted liquid, and damping all available spaces at short intervals in preference to direct syringing. Keep succession plants steadily progressing by the maintenance of heat and moisture. Avoid close stopping until the trellis is well covered with foliage, and keep them regularly divested of male and female blossoms until the time arrives for allowing them to carry fruit. Plums and Cherries. — Where a full dessert has to be provided early in the season, these easily forced fruits form a valuable acquisition. They cannot, however, be hurried through any of the stages of their growth, as anything approaching a high temperature would soon prove fatal to the crop. To obviate this danger the earliest per- manently planted house may now be closed and Jan. 5, 1884. THE GAEDEN 9 kept at a minimum temperature of 40°, and 10° higher by day, with plenty of root and atmo- spheric moisture to favour the swelling of the buds. Always force with air, particularly when fire heat is applied, and let the temperature by night fall lower than the figures just indicated in preference to overheating the pipes when the weather is very severe. If not more than one house is devoted to Plums and Cherries, it is a good plan to obtain the first crop from pot trees, which should be thoroughly established before forcing is attempted, and as these are benefited by exposure to the elements from the day the fruit is gathered until the time comes round for forcing, the house, which should be light and airy, may be turned to other purposes for several months in the autumn. For this kind of work early kinds only should be potted, and duplicates of those most in favour will be found more satis- factory than an endless variety, which neither ripen together nor look well when dished up in mixture. KITCHEN GARDEN. We have been employed during the week in dig- ging a large quarter for Artichokes of both kinds. A c ^* been, moreover, top-dressing Asparagus and filling up vacancies in the case of Cabbages and Lettuces. During this mild weather slugs have been tiresome and plentiful. Beds for Pota- toes, Carrots, and Radishes should now be made "/* We_ simply dig out a square space, making I,- u '"^ frame, and fill up nearly to the glass. Winch settles down sufficiently low to admU of tbe inmates having plenty of room in which to grow and flourish. Forcing this season is a ™?*'^^°f little importance, the weather being so mild that little heat and less trouble are needed. We force Asparagus in old Pine stoves, and cut it " t u/ ^"^^^^ '"St. all being green and wholly eatable. The very small is useful for "Asparagus Peas. Rhubarb we force in tbe dark, with leaves alone, and thus treated the flavour is much better than if manure were employed. Seakale we never ntt, but cover with pots in the old.but useful way, and we always have a good supply. Our Cucum- bers are kept at 65° at night, but we allow the thermometer to run up to 75° or 80° in the daytime before givmg air. Our Cucumber house is a span- roofed structure with brick sides, and needs no more fire-heat than a lean-to. Indoor Garden. PLUMBAGO ROSEA. This Plumbago is one of the handsomest winter bloommg utove plants which we possess. Indi- Tidually, the flowers are not unlike those of a minia- ture Phlox Drummondi, and are produced freely on long, erect terminal spikes from the points of the previous summer's shoots. It is of a somewhat spare branching, erect habit of growth, and fur- nished with handsome medium-sized leaves. It is not suitable for being formed into permanent bush-hke specimens, such as many of the ordinary stove plants, but is better adapted for medium- sized pots to be grown in quantity for autumn and winter blooming, at which season its bright rose-coloured flowers are amongst the most at- tractive ornaments of the stove. It is also fitted for trammg so as to cover an end wall in a light position, or for a pillar. The flowers are thin in texture, and unless they have been brought on and matured under the most favourable conditions in close proximity to the glass, they are liable to flag soon after being cut from the plant It ,has been long known in this country, having been introduced from Eastern India over a hun- dred years ago, yet it still holds its place as one of a select few winter blooming subjects that have not many equals amongst recent introduc- tions. Coming as it does from the warm parts of India, it requires a considerable heat to grow and flower it well, and unless where an ordinary stove temperature can be maintained in the winter it is not advisable to attempt its cultivation, as without enough warmth the flowering will be deficient ; at the same time it is well to bear in mind that this and all other plants which open their flowers during the winter season are better not grown with more heat than is found necessary, for if they are subjected to any higher than requisite, the flowers will be of shorter duration on the plant and of less use when cut. Peopagation.— It strikes readily from cut- tings, which the old plants produce freely if after blooming they are kept in a temperature of 60° in the night, and a little warmer during the day ; so managed, young shoots will be present in abundance about the beginning of March. Insert them three or four together in 4-inch pots drained and half filled with a mixture of sandy soil, the remainder all sand ; keep moist, cover with progagating glasses, and let the tem- perature be a little above that in which the plants have stood to produce the cuttings. When well rooted move them singly into 3-inch pots, using good ordinary loam with some rotten manure and enough sand to keep the whole porous ; pot firmly and do not give much air for a few days until they have begun to root in the new soil, after which inure them to the full air admitted to the house, and place them where they will have plenty of light. Increase the temperature as the sun gets more powerful, and give correspondingly more air in the middle of the day ; shade slightly when the sun is very bright, damp overhead with the syringe at the time of shutting the air off, and when some growth has been made cut out the tops of the shoots, removing three or four joints, for, if in stopping this and other similar erect-habited plants that are little disposed to break back only just the points are pinched off, they often merely break a single shoot ; whereas by removing more of the soft top of the shoots two or three breaks will frequently result. By the beginning of June move them into 8-inch or S-inch pots, which will be large enough to grow and flower them in the first year. Use soil similar to that advised for the first potting, but a little more lumpy in texture ; pot firmly, as with everything of the habit possessed by this plant a loose, insufiiciently solidifled con- dition of the soil tends to encourage weak, strag- gling growth. Summer teeatment. — During the summer the plants will do with an ordinary stove tem- perature ; although able to bear as much heat as most species from the warmest regions of the eastern hemisphere, 65° to 70° in the night will answer with an increase by day proportionate to the state of the weather. As soon as fairly esta- blished in the larger pots, stop the shoots again in the manner before advised. All through the summer they will do better in a low pit if it is of a character that will give plenty of light, as here they can be placed nearer the roof than in an ordinary house. This is important with quick-growing plants like this Plumbago, as under such conditions they make shorter jointed wood, and have always more root, both of which materially influence their ability to produce flowers. As the days get shorter, cease shading, give more air, and do not syringe overhead ; this is necessary to induce a slower formation of growth and to solidify that which has been made through the season. The plants may be divided so as to have them bloom in succession ; those intended to come in first should, about the middle of October, be moved into the stove, where a night temperature of 65° can be kept up and a little more in the daytime. Stand them so that the tops of the shoots will be within a few inches of the roof-glass — the nearer to it the better, if not abso- lutely touching ; it the pots are very full of roots, a little weak manure water once a week will be an advantage. Give as much air in the middle of fine days as the other occupants of the house will bear, and do not use more atmospheric moisture than needful, as the drier it is within reasonable limits the stouter the flowers will be. The plants in- tended to succeed the first must not be kept too cool ; they should not remain where they will be below 55° by night, or the roots are liable to suffer, in which case the blooms will be weak and small in quantity. After the first crop of flowers produced from the points of the shoots is over, if the plants are strong they will break back and push a second lot from the base of the leaves on the upper portions of the shoots. When the flower- ing is over give less water to the roots, and keep the plants for a time in a dormant state, after which they may be started into growth in the way already described to produce cuttings, or if de- sired to grow them on another season, they may as soon as broken into growth have the soil par- tially shaken from the old balls, be re-potted in fresh material, and grown on as in the preceding summer. When required for planting out so as to cover a pillar or wall in the way alluded to at the commencement, these one-year-old plants will best answer the purpose, as if planted, as they necessarily need to be in such situations, at some distance from the glass, newly struck examples have a tendency to become drawn up and weak. When this Plumbago is to be grown in this way, it should be in a position where its head will be able to reach close up to the glass, so as to give strength to the flowers in the way indicated. Insects. — This plant is not much subject to insects, unless where the atmosphere is allowed to become over-dry ; then red spider will sometimes make its appearance. Thrips and aphides will also live upon it, but the whole of these pests are usually kept away by the daily use of the syringe through the growing season. T. B. THEOPHRASTA IMPERIALIS. There are one or two other species of Theo- phrasta known in cultivation, but they are so far inferior to this that I have deemed it not neces- sary to further allude to them. T. imperialis is an evergreen, and comes from Brazil. To grow it in a way that will enable it to fully develope its leaves, it should have a strong heat through the growing season ; it grows freely when once rooted, but is one of the most difficult plants in cultiva- tion to strike. I have seen cuttings made from young shoots taken off with a heel stand in a strong heat fresh and green in appearance for two years without emitting a root, although they have callused over at the base completely, and some will ultimately form roots. On this account the plant is best propagated from seeds, but as it rarely, if ever, produces these under cultivation, it is better for the generality of those who purpose growing it to procure young plants from those who grow such for sale ; they can be bought in 6-inch or 8-inch pots. If got in the spring, they should, about the beginning of April, have a shift into pots 4 inches larger ; turfy loam is the best soil for them: afterwards place in a temperature of 65° or 70° in the night, with proportionately more warmth in the day. The leaves are very hard in texture, and not likely to suffer from a moderate amount of sun reaching them unless they are so exposed as to get scorched, yet it is best to shade when the weather is bright, for if the leaves are once injured, there is no way of rectifying the mischief except heading down and bringing up another growth, which takes a considerable time to accomplish. Keep the atmo- sphere fairly moist with air when favourable and syringe daily. The plant is a free rooter, and by the beginning of August pots 3 inches larger will most likely be required, after which continue to treat as before until the days get cool ; then reduce the heat to 60° or 65° in the winter during the night. Spring treatment.— By the spring, if all has gone well, the plants will have attained a hand- some size, and will want pots 16 inches or 18 inches in diameter, which are as large as will ever be required ; increase the warmth as in the year before, and treat as advised for the preceding summer. As increased strength is acquired, the large spiny-edged leaves will be produced in considerable numbers at a time. The height the plants are allowed to grow will be regu- lated by the height of the house in which they are to stand and the condition the lower leaves keep in, as, in common with all single-stemmed 10 THE GARDEN [Jan. o, 1884. things, which is the form this Thecphrasta re- quires to be confined to, it shonld never be al- lowed to go on after the bottom leaves begin to go shabby ; when this occurs the plants should be beaded down, choosing the spring or early enough in the summer, so that the young shoots to be grown up from the old stool will have time to make some progress before the season of lower temperature has arrived. When cut down keep the stools in a brisk heat, where they will soon break out several shoots ; choose the best placed of these, removing the remainder, and after 10 inches or 12 inches of growth has been made shake away three-fourths of the old material, placing the plants in pots about half the size of those they have occupied before with fresh soil. Manage as previously in every way, giving additional pot room as required ; they will make handsome fpecimens after being thus treated, with big leaves drooping down, so as completely to cover the pots. This Theophrasta grows well with the help of manure water, by which means somewhat smaller pots will suffice, but still it can never be grown to a handsome size without more root room than many things. Insects. — Its leaves are so hard in texture that, combined with the use of the syringe, few insects can effect a lodgment except scale, which can be removed with a soft brush or sponge. T. B. see until mischief is done. If the heat kept up has been sufficient for the Cnrculigo, it will have been more than either needful or good for the Cycas revoluta, which is a Chinese plant that re- quires nothing more than an ordinary greenhouse temperature, with a little extra warmth in fpring and summer, in order to start growth and help to bring the leaves up to their full size. — T. B. Kitchen Garden. Zonal Pelargonium Rev. W.Atkinson. — A good many zonals flower well in winter, but this one is a long way ahead of all that I have seen. It is a good grower, and produces large bold trasses of flowers that are very striking in mid- winter. In colour it is a light shade of crimson, and the trusses are produced so freely as to be very effective. Cuttings of it should be struck in spring, and grown on in pots all the summer, but all flowers must be picked off until winter approaches. — J. C. C. FicuBes. — Referring to the note on these (p. 548), allow me to state that on the Continent F. elastica is grown to a large extent on the plant- ing out system. Cuttings are struck early in spring, and, after being well rooted, they are planted on well-prepared hotbedsia soilconsistiDg of leaf-mould and spent hotbed manure. At first they are kept rather close, but afterwards more air is given them, and in June or July the lights are taken oflE altogether, thus exposing the plants to the sun and all weathers except very heavy rains. About September they will be from 2 feet to 3 feet high, and are potted and kept close for a few weeks. This method answers well ; it is prac- tised in France, Belgium, and Germany. — Louis KBOPATSCii, Laxciihurg. 5117.— Ourculigo recurvata varlegata- — If, as *' A r.eginner" (p. 582) states, his plant of Curculigo grows freely, then the cause of the leaves decaying prematurely cannot be insuf- ficient heat, unless the temperature is some- times allowed to get too low. The Curculigo is an Indian plant, and requires a high temperature to grow it well. In all plants that have white varifgation in the leaves, the white portion is more tender than the green, especially in the case of such kinds as this where the foliage is not of a leathery, tough, enduring character. Nothing tends so much to put the requisite substance into the leaves of this and similar plants as keeping them well up to the roof, say with their tops within 1 footer 18 inches of it whilst growing, never al- lowing the shading to remain over them when the sun is not shining, and that with sufficient force to injure them. With the same object in view no more atmosphere moisture should be used than is needful. This is best effected by giving a moderate amount of air daily during the growing season. I make these suggestions under the impression that the leaves may be deficient in substance, and con- sequently do not last unless the plant has been affected with red spider that has escaped detec- tion. A free use of the syringe daily all through the growing season is necessary for neaily all stove plants in order to keep down this little pest, which young hands at plant growing often do not EARLY POTATOES, The season has now arrived when these should be started into growth, and in doing so they must not only have heat, but light. The former without the latter would be ruinous, as when Potatoes are lan up weakly at first they never seem to succeed. In starting them in pots they should not be put into a much higher temperature than that in which they are intended to be when finally planted out. In the long run there is nothing gained by it. The best results can only be obtained by regular, steady growth, without unduly pushing or checking. A good sized bed of leaves in a pit or a bed upon which a frame and lights can be placed is an old and an excellent way of forcing Potatoes. A nice, steady, genial warmth proceeds from such a bed which is specially suitable for them. Nine inches or 10 inches in depth of light, mellow soil should be placed on the leaves, and the Potatoes may be planted in the course of a few days as there is no fear of overheating. At night thick, warm coverings must be used, but during the daytime as much light must be admitted, even in frosty weather, as is consistent with safety. Wherever there is space on shelves or stages near the glass, Potatoes may be successfully grown in pots. Light is the very life and soul of the Potato plant, and without abundance of it Pota- toes of good quality cannot be grown. In the preparation of the sets only one stem should be permitted to grow. Three of these single-stemmed tubers may be planted in a 10-inch pot. In planting leave space to earth op later on. A good deal may be done with liquid manure by-and-by if the stems have strength enough to turn it to account. The old Ashleaf is the best kind for early work, though the Walnut-leaf is grown and appreciated by some. E. H. from about the midland and southern counties. — R. Stevens, Paston, KoTthinnherland. English V. French Muehroom epawn. — We have tried both English and French Mush- room spawn, and we decidedly prefer the English. Beds with one end spawned with English and the other with French spawn have led us to this con- clusion, as the English end produced Mushrooms long before any were vi&ible at the other, and the home-made spawn produced a fine heavy crop, while the other was next to a failure. From the first I disliked the look of the French spawn ; it was in small particles in a box, and not made up like our own firm bricks, which I should say, would retain the fungus germs much longer than the loose material from France.— J. MuiR. Celery maggot.— ^At our last gardeners meeting the subject of the disease affecting Celery was under discussion, and no member present was able to specify a remedy, lime and paraffin having been tried with no good result. It was therefore felt desirable that more extended experience should be sought. Having every reason to believe that the maggot that has destroyed the Celery crop in this district is no stranger in other parts, we hope to hear that some have been successful in finding an effectual remedy for it, and that they will generously communicate the same to their compeers at Sutton through the columns of The Garden. — W. YIk^i.x^i, Sutton Valance. Ohou d© Burghley. — In last year's volume (p. 577) *' S. D." points out what he appears to think a seeming contradiction in my note as to this vegetable (p. 472). Itisnow more than a month since that note appeared, and as yet I see no rea- son to alter my estimate of this Cabbage formed at that time, but rather have had confirmation of it. It is certainly a distinct and finely flavoured vegetable, but I would point out it by no means follows that '* it must be superior to an autumn Cabbage or Savoy." In Chou de Burghley there are two quite distinct kinds — one with light and the other with dark coloured leaves, and out of about 200 plants sown and planted as directed, I have only yet found four or five firm heads, and those dark leaved. If there be no improvement on another trial, I must, though reluctantly, consider it to be not worth growing. It may not have struck " S. D." that I write from my experience of it in the extreme north of the kingdom, while all the evidence I have in its favour appears to come QUESTIONS. 5120.— Malleable coll or tube boiler.— Can anyoue kiniUy say how this is to be set in brickwork so as to obtain most heat from tlit; fuel used, aud what is the best fuel?— T. J. H. S. 512l.--CharriDgrturf --Willsonie of yourconespondents kindly say which is the best plan to char a piece of tiu-f ? I understand that turfy soil, when reduced by burning and then well soaked in liquid manxu-e, makes an excellent compost in wliich to pot many greenliouse plants.— M. L. W. 6122.— Apple trees and Strawberries.— Which are the best for Apples in the borders of gardens— espaliers or bushes? aud will some of your corresponaents at^ the same time mention sL\ kinds of .Strawberries of the most approved sorts for a ^'arden in Tyrone ?— G. H. 5123.— Non-reeinous Conifere.- ran anyone inform me which of the Conifers contains the least resin? borne Conifer wootUs rfifuired for an experiment, and the least resinous is wanted for that purpose.— R. B. 5124.— Fruiting Vine canes.— Could what are ad- vertised as fruiting canes be planted out in a vinery as the permanent Vines, so as to take a modtrate crop ntxt au- tumn ami then be allowed to bear regularly afterwards? as if so, it would appear that a great deal of tinie would be saved, with, of course, an increased first cost.— S. C. 5125.— LauruBtlnuses not flowerinfir.— Five or six years ago the tamustinuses litre always bloomed most profusely fruni November until March or April, but of late years they have failed to do so, and now even the largest bushes do not produce more than a handful of blooms at any time. Has the same thing happened elsewhere ? and if so, what can Ijc the cause? They produce plenty of young wood every summer, but in my opinion there does not appear to be sufticient sunshine to develop and mature the fluwcr-buds.— J. MciB, Margam, Taibach, Glamorgan- shire. 5126 —Hocking's Conical Boiler.— Can any reader of The Gabhen give us their experience of the heating power of this boiler? We have one 2 feet in depth which is required to heat two houses, one containing 170 feet of 4duch and the other ISO feet of 3-inch piping, and ^e can- not obtain nearly sufticient heat to keep one as a stove and the other so that cold will not injure the plants, particu- larly on cold nights. With constantly stirring the fire we can manage in the daytime to maintain tlie proper beat. It iJ at uiglits when the fire has necessarily to be left for a length nf time that our plants sutfer "NA'nuld a chimney a few feet liightr have any betttr effect? At present the smoke is carried only 4 feet or so above the hopper. We shall be glad of any suggestion likely to remedy thepresent state of things.— F. M. 5127.— Mushroom failure.— Will some reader kindly give me his opinion as to the cause of failure in the following cast? The bed was made up in the middle of September, and by the middle of October thousands of little Mushrooms appeared upon its surface. But on finding they made no progress I covered them with hay; under this treatment a few came on, while all the rest died off. In a few days, however, another lot sprang up, but only to show thenifelves and then die nff. as the rest had done, leaving the bed one mass of small dead Mushrooms. I may just add that the bed was made up in the usual way, and c< Msisted of a mixture of droppings and soil made verj' firm. I removed the hay tvery three or four days, and kept the house and bed tolerably damp ; temperature 55" to 7t°.— W. B. 5128.— Carolina Strawbeny.— Last summer I saw in an old gdrden near lirighton an old-fashioned, but very delicious and freebeariny Strawberry, which I was told was the Carolina. It was of moderate size, ila coloiu" being pure white, very dtlicately flecked with pink, so that it appeared to be less than half ripe even when fully ripe. Now, upon turning up an old authority on Strawberries, I find the true Carolina, otherwise called the old scarlet Pine, described as follows: "Fruit medium-sized, ovate, even, and regular, and with a glossy neck, skin deep red, flesh pale red, very fine aud solid, with a fine, sprightly, and very rich Pine flavour." The above does not tally with the Strawlierry which I tasted in Sussex. Therefore, either the Sussex kind was wrongly named by its owner, or • Ise there are two sorts of Carolina. Can any of your fruit- growing correspondents tell me what is probably the naniu of the Sussex Strawberry described above, and whether it is still to be procued from nurserymen?— A. C. Ulack- STONE, Glasgoxs. I Jan. 5. 1884.] THE GARDEN ii Orchids. POTTING CATTLEYAS. I AM sure that Mr. Douglas has unintenticnallysub- stitnted the word Orchids for Cattleyas. If he has read me aright, he will see that Cattleyas are tte only plants mentioned by me. I certainly should not say that winter was a bad time for potting many other kinds of Orchids ; I am myself potting some at the present time. Mr. Douglas will see that I have not said in any way that it was hurtful to pot imported plants in crocks only. I do not think there is the least harm in doing so ; but I do say that in most cases it is unneces- sary, and consequently but waste of time. Any plants which I may get in very bad health are just placed with sufficient of the old roots left on to keep them about 2 inches or .'i inches off the shingle, a practice which answers every purpose. Mr. Douglas says that Mr. Ward always potted in winter. In the case of Cjttleyas I am inclined to think he left them until February at the earliest; but I would point out that though everyone knows Mr. Ward was a very success- ful grower, Orchid growing has made great leaps, even in the half-a-dozen years since Mr. Ward exhibited. I should like to ask Mr. Douglas what are his resting months for Cattleyas. He says : " I find that our Cattleyas are now making new roots from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, and we are potting the whole of I hem that require it. Our Cattleyas, with the exception of C. Trianse and Percivaliana, are at perfect rest.' As most of the species do not finish up their growths until November, I cannot understand their starting off to root again in December. Perhaps Mr. Douglas' plants make two growths a year. When I wrote " plenty of air," I meant beginners to understand that Cattleyas like air When most people start Catt- leja growing they fancy they require baking. I had not Mr. Douglas' remarks by me at the time when I quoted from them, and I find that I left out the last three or four words, though they do not very much alter the meaning which I placed upon the sentence. Let me, in conclusion, advise such ama- teurs as are undecided what to do with their Cattleyas that require potting to ehift some now and leave some others until summer, and at this time next year tell us which did best. Sileerdalc Lodgn, Sydenham. A. G. Catt. EAKE ORCHIDS IN FLOWER The following are among the most noteworthy of the choicer kinds of Orchids now in flower in Mr. Bull's nursery at Chelsea. Among the Cymbi- diums is the extremely rare C. elegans, which com- paratively few orchidists have seen in bloom. It has the habit of C. Mastersi, but the flowers are quite different. The spikes, which are pendulous, contain a dozen or more blooms, partially closed, and their colour is a soft citron-yellow. It is a most distinct-looking Orchid, and graceful and showy withal. The most striking of the Phalie- nopsids is P. amabilis Dayana, which is remark- able for the deep vinous red colouring of the la- bellum, which renders it most distinct. Among the numerous Oncidiums is a diminutive species aptly named O. pumilum. It is, however, some- thing more than a botanical curiosity, inasmuch as it is showy in its way. The tiny yellow blos- soms are crowded on spikes some half-dozen inches long, and hang elegantly from the suspended pan. Another rather uncommon Oncid is O. pubes, also a small species, having chocolate flowers on con- gested spikes. O. cheirophorum is also an en- gaging little plant, and quite attractive seen en masse. Vanda conoolor, though not showy, is re- markable as a scarce species. It simulates V. la- mellata, and, like it, has flowers of a brownish yellow, about the size of those of V. insignis. Among the crowds of Odontoglossums the most conspicuous is 0. crispum and its endless forms. Here they exist in abundance, and the houses de- voted to them present a fine sight. Besides O. crispum and O Pescatorei, which constitute the bulk of the flowering plants, one may see the pretty, and yet scarce, O. Edwardi, a pretty plum-coloured violet-scented species, which we always class among the Hitc of Orchidaceous plants. The yellow variety of O. crispum (flave- olum) has been a great attraction ; also some superb hybrid forms, notably one in the way of O. luteo-purpureum. Among the Cattleyas and La;lias were a lovely white flowered variety of C. Trianfe, with only the faintest flush of pink in the labellum to mar the spotless whiteness of the flowers, which were large and finely shaped. Among the Cattleyas, too, there is a splendid form of the much criticised C. Percivaliana, one of the best we ha^'eseen, the labellum being of an intense maroon-crimson blotched with gold, while the petals and sepals were a deep lilac. Besides the choicer forms of L. ancepi, such as Hilli, there was the new and very rare L. Crawshayana, a species in the way of L. anceps, but different in form and of richer colour. Zygopetalum Mackayi.— A spike of this useful old-fashioned Orchid has been sent to us by Mr. Percival's gardener (Mr. Beddoes) at Birk- dale, who says that the specimen from which the spike was cut bore 1(1 similar spikes, and in Sep- tember last the same plant bore no fewer than 30 spikes. Cattleya Eldorado var.— Mr. H. W. Elliott also sends us from the neighbourhood of Bir- mingham a superb flower of the variable C. Eldo- rado, and one quite distinct from the ordinary run of varieties. The most noteworthy point about it is the heavy carmine blotches on the petals, much the same as in Backhouse's variety of C. Trianas. The ground colour of the petals and sepals is a delicate mauve, while the labellum is an intense amethyst. Mr. Elliott ai;o sends a fine bloom of La^lia anceps, large and highly coloured Odontogloseum nebulosum album.— The spotted forms of this beautiful cool house Orchid are common enough, but it is not often that a spotless white variety is seen ; indeed we do not remember having seen one before the other day, when it occurred in Mr. Peacock's garden, at Sudbury House, Hammersmith. The flowers of this form were as large as those of the original, and the spotless whiteness of the petals and sepals renders the blossoms chastely beautiful, and in striking contrast to another variety of the same species in this collection named pardinum, which is remarkable for the profusion of heavy spots on the sepals and petals. Cypripedium Spicerlanum. — Among some blooms of this beautifal Lady's Slipper sent to us by Mr. H. W. Elliott is one which has the upper exterior of the dorsal sepal of quite a pinkish purple, while another has a peculiar for- mation of the column. Shortly we shall hear of numerous distinct varieties of this Orchid as the large importations we are now getting come into flower. It is to be hoped, however, that every i-light variation from tlie original will not be donned with a varietal name, as too often Orchids are. The Odontogloasuin houses in Mr. Pea- cock's garden at Hammersmith seem more charm- ing than usual at this season, when everything in the outside garden wears a gloomy aspect. These houses, containing thousands of plants, teem with perfect thickets of spikes, which, from their slender gracefulness, lend additional beauty to the crowds of chaste flowers they support. There is as- suredly no prettier sight in a garden, especially in the depth of winter, than a houseful of Alexandrre Odontoglossums in full bloom, but we hardly know in this case which an Orchid lover would be charmed by most, the glorious display of Alexandra; and Pescatorei in endless form and variety, or by the dainty rarities with which this collection is en- riched. At the present time may be seen one of the finest varieties of 0. Andersonianum that has flowered in the country; itisremarkableforthepro- fusion of chestnut- brown spots on the white ground, but unfortunately the flowers do not seem to fully expand, at least not all at one time. The luxu- riant growth, the healthy green foliage of all the cool Orchido in this garden, is no less remarkable than the profusion of bloom — a proof that the re- quirements of South American Orchids is welt understood by Mr. Vicary, the gardener. Varieties of Lselia anceps— A beautiful series of the different forms of Lselia anceps has been sent to us from Mr. R. P. Percival's rich Orchid collection at Clevelands, Birkdale, Southport, by his gardener, Mr. S. Beddoes. There are six va- rieties in all, the most remarkable being one named Percivaliana, as it is so distinct from all other forms with which we are acquainted. Its sepals and petals are almost pure white. The label- lum is the most distinct part ; in the throat it Is heavily pencilled with lines of claret-purple, then lower down is abroad band of white .surmounted by a yellow crest, while the lowermost lobe is wholly of an intensely deep amethyst, a colour which also edges the side wings of the lip. This is the first we have seen of this beautiful variety, which we be- lieve originated in Mr. Percival's collection. Pro- fessor Eeichenbach adds pulcherrima to the name. The other forms include the delicately tinted L. Hilli, which is almost white, save a lilac tinge on the lip ; L. Barkeri, remarkable for the intensely deep crimson-purple of the lip. Besides these there are two unnamed varieties, both of which have unusually large flowers and are richly coloured This series alone shows what diversity of colour exists in this lovely winter flowering L;elia, and then it does not include the queen of all, the superb L. Dawsoni, or the rare pure white variety. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Royal Horticultural Society of Ire- land. — This Society's show fixtures for the coming year are as follows : Spring exhibition, Thursday, April 17; May do., Thursday, May 15; summer do., 'Thursday, July ii ; autumn do., Thurs- dav, August 1'8 ; winter do., Thursday, November 20" Ne'W Zealand Hops.- The nth annua report of the Botanic Garden Board of New Zea- land speaks hopefully of the ultimate success of attemps to cultivate Hops in the province of Wellington ; in Nelson success has been already secured. The great drawback is the expense of providing the necessary poles, and much stress is laid upon the necessity for cultivating Oak, Ash, Birch, and species of Eucalyptus for that purpose. Of the indigenous poles, those of Myrsine Drvillei are said to be the most durable. Oonophallus Titanum.— The development of leaves belonging to that section of Arads cha- racterised by a tuber from which the flower is produced, followed annually by the leaf, is almost as interesting as the unfolding of a large blossom. Some of the leaf-stalks are marked with blotches and stripes in such a manner as to give them the appearance of some reptile, the cluster of leaf segments folded together at the top adding to the resemblance. The giant of the section is the plant just mentioned. At Kew it is making a new leaf which promises to be a very fine one. The growth is extremely rapid, almost 6 inches in height being made each day. Why should this plant suggest one of the most repulsive of animals by its curiously marked and singularly shaped leaf and its flowers h^ive a most repulsive odour ? Mr. Grant Allen could perhaps answer this ques- tion. The Veitch memorial trustees have de- cided to allot the following medals and prizes during the present year, 1884, viz. : I. A Veitch memorial medal and prize of £~> for each of the following subjects : (1) The best specimen Orchid in bloom ; (2) the best stove or greenhouse plant in bloom ; (3) the best dish of two bunches of Grapes, one variety— these to be offered at the Dundee international show which takes place on September 11-13. 11. A Veitch memorial medal and prize of £~) for (1) the best specimen Orchid in bloom ; (2) the best stove or greenhouse plant in bloom — these to be offered at the Royal Botanic 12 THE GARDEN [Jax, 1884. Society's show on May 21 ; and for (3) the best dish of three bunches of Grapes, to be offered at the Royal Botanic Society show on June 18. ] II. A Veitch memorial medal and prize of £6 were also placed at the disposal of the respective com- mittees of the National Auricula Society (southern section), of the National Carnation and Picotee Society (southern section), and of the committee having charge of the National Dahlia show. These prizes are only eligible to be competed for by amateurs and bond-fide gentlemen's gardeners. Perns and their cultivation.— At the fortnightly meeting of the Manchester Horticul- tural Mutual Improvement Society, Mr. W. Bir- kenhead read a paper the other evening on the cultivation of Ferns. He dwelt upon the natural conditions under which Ferns are met, noticing what modest and retiring spots many of them choose for themselves ; so in our attempts to grow them a quiet and shady position will suit many which, if placed on high and airy stages, would shrivel and pine away. The Todea superba, T. pellucida, and many of the Hymenophyllums would come under this head, and among this class less heat was needed than hitherto many had been disposed to give. He had received letters from people in many parts of the country assuring him that though their plants had been frozen for days together no harm whatever had resulted from such a severe ordeal. The Nothotena, Calan- thes, and Gymnogrammas must have treatment in many respects the opposite of the preceding. For them, light, an airy situation, and much less moisture would be required, and when successfully managed they are amongst the most beautiful of the family. Mr. Birkenhead showed the folly of potting Ferns too firmly, preferring a rough open soil in which cinders and sand formed a not in- ferior part to that which is more compact. The last flo'wers of the year.— This has been one of the most trying seasons for alpine and herbaceous plants I ever remember to have experienced in the midland counties. Having had little or no frost, the plants have never been at rest, and the miserable dark foggy weather which we are now having keeps everything in a sod- dened state. In looking round this morning, December 31, 1 noticed the following in flower, some of them rather out of character in both size and colour, viz. : Jasminum nudiflorum. Daphne Mezereum, Chimonanthus fragrans, finely in flower and abundant ; Primula acaulis, P. acaulis sul- phurea and lilacina fl.-pl,, P. elatior alba and Gilbert's Harbinger, the best white in cultivation ; Helleborus foetidns, H. lividus, H. niger and mazi- mus altifolius, very fine ; Crocus longiflorus.C.och- roleucus, C. chrysanthus, and C. vitellinus, Arabis albida. Anemone blanda and A. hortensis, Geum miniatum and G. coccineum fl.-pl., Armeria cephalotes rubra, Scabiosa caucasica, Doronicum hybridum (Harpur Crewe's var.), oneof the best herbaceous plants known, h«ving been in flower 1(1 months ; Colchicum roseum fl.-pl. and C. arenaria, a most desirable species ; Aubrietia Eyresi, Trollius europ^us, Gentiana acaulis, Tri- toma Burchelli, Aster ericoides, Cyclamen coum, Erica vagans rubra, Menziesia polifolia purpurea, and Galanthus nivalis var. corcyrensis. This is one of the most useful of the Snowdrops, coming into flower in the end of November after G. octobrensis is over, and prolonging the season till the old Q. nivalis gladdens the spring. — Flooee. RHODODENDRON POISONING. Mb. a. Nesbitt, in the Oardeners' Chronicle, queries the oft-repeated assertion that honey made from the flowers of Rhododendron ponticum is poisonous, and even that the plant itself is so. He says that he has observed lambs eating a small quantity of the leaves either of R. ponticum or hybrids of that plant, and no bad result fol- lowed. He suggests that as the flower of the Oleander is more like a Rose than the Rhododen- dron, it is probable that the former was the plant from which the honey was obtained which poisoned Xenophon's soldiers, the Oleander being well known to be poisonous. In reference to this point an Italian correspondent writes in the same journal as follows : — " Having resided at Trebizond, the scene of the poisoning by honey of Xenophon's soldiers, I can say that the chief undergrowth and copse of that part of the southern shors of the Euxine, or Black Sea, consists now of Rhododendron ponticum and Azalea pontica, whereas no Oleander grows on any part of that coast. The Rhododendron has little or no scent, whereas the Azalea has a very powerful and sweet odour. The flowers precede the leaves, and in spring whole hillsides present sheets of golden yellow, and the -country is per- fumed for miles around. The opinion of the natives is that the poisonous honey called in Turkish DeJJi Bat, or mad honey, is derived from these highly scented flowers of the Azalea. The honey has a very peculiar, and to most people dis- agreeable, taste in its crude state, and when eaten produces vertigo, sickness, purging, and great prostration ; after many hours the effects pass off, and the sufferers gradually recover. The honey, nevertheless, is much used in cookery, confec- tionery, and for preserving fruits, being much cheaper than sugar ; but previous to use it is cooked on the fire, and the heat volatilises the poisonous principle, when it can be eaten in safety. Whether the Rhododendron is also poisonous I do not know ; many think it is, and such was evidently the opinion of Xenophon." The Rev. C. Wolley Dod, Edge Hall, Malpas, contributes to the same paper an interesting note which throws some light upon this point. He re- marks that there were apparently two kinds of poisonous honey met with in Pontus, one found near Heraclea and the other near Trebizond, the former being attributed by Pliny to a plant called " ^Egolethon " or Goat's Bane, the other to a plant which both he and Dioscorides called " Rhododendron ; " but they also used the name " Nerium " for it. The latter Sibthorp has identified as Nerium Oleander. Mr. Dodd can find no direct evidence that Rhododendron ponticum is poisonous ; but Azalea pontica, which occurs in profusion near Trebizond, about ten miles from the coast, he believes to possess poisonous pro- perties similar to those attributed to Kalmia lati- folia. It is a noteworthy fact, if correct, that no species of Rhododendron is known to be poisonous, while members of the other Ericaceous genera. Azalea, Kalmia, and Andromeda, possess poisonous properties. M. Peysonnell, in a treatise published in Paris, in 1787, mentions among the annual exports from Taman, on the east side of the Sea of Azov, 500 quintals (about 25 tons) of honey collected in Abaza, a region on the north-east coast of the Black Sea, extending up to the west slope of the Caucasus. This honey was called mad honey (meil-fol), and its use was for mixing with intoxicating drinks to increase their effects. It is remarkable that Pliny uses the same word " mad honey" for the poisonous honey of Pontus. NEGLECTED VEGETABLES. " RU.STICU.S, " writing in the St. James's Gazette the other day, says ; •* Receive the best thanks for * Neglected Vegetables ' of one who has, in main- taining strict orthodoxy as to flesh-meats, thought it no bad use of a few acres to devote them to the development of the vegetable reserves which are essential for keeping the human machine in working order. No doubt the Tomato is the brilliant conquest of the century. But your writer should not forget the Brussels Sprout, brought over (as its name denotes) from the Low Countries early in the century, and first grown at The Deep- dene, Dorking. Then there is likewise, though far too little known, the Celeriac — that Celery of which the root is eaten. I wonder also that the Aubergine did not remind him of another kitchen fruit, botanically far apart but with culinary afli- nities — the Vegetable Marrow — as to which I claim a protest loud and unsparing against those two nauseating sauces, the melted butter and the cornflour, the misuse of which by cooks and cook- esses of the baser sort has, I believe, done more to injure the cause of reasonable vegetarianism than anything else. Then that vegetable should re- mind! us of those noble Pumpkins whose rotund beauties, displayed at this season at the French greengrocers' doors, may make an Englishman blush for his country. Nor should we let it be forgotten that the Beetroot is a workaday vege- table, and not merely a form of salad. The neg- lect of Sorrel is also incomprehensible. To come to more homely themes, the Carrot has a wider sphere of usefulness than merely to make the soup which is, I suppose, called Crecy from some connection between its colour and that of the traditionary British soldier, or to garnish rounds of beef. The pronounced flavour of the nutritious Parsnip divides the world (to borrow Mr. Glad- stone's dictum on dogs) into *' lovers of Parsnips" and ** haters of Parsnips ;" but those to whom the delicate Salsify is unpalatable must be few and eccentric. Red Cabbage is usually left to the pickle-pot ; but as a cooked vegetable it is de- licious, particularly with a little lemon-juice, not vinegar. Then there are two salad plants of in- digenous origin and old literary fame now, generally speaking, as much forgotten as they are easy of growth. The succulent Purslane, com- mended by Sir T. Elyot for its medicinal virtue, is, with its slightly alkaline flavour, cool and re- freshing in the summer heats ; while, as a thick vegetable soup, it is recommended by its piquant flavour. The Rampion, conspicuous for the graceful blue bell which marks it as of the Campanula family, might cheer many a table, as it does mine, at this season with its roots shining as ivory and its flavour recalling the Filbert. Such are merely samples of the wealth of vegetable food so stupidly neglected by the average English house- holder. OBITUARY. Thomas Speed — We have to record with much regret the death of Mr. Thomas Speed, who shot himself on Wednesday, the 26th ult.,the only reason assigned for the act being mental de- pression through great bodily pain arising from gout. Few persons were better known than Mr. Speed, who had been some fifteen or sixteen years at Chatsworth. He was of a kindly disposition and very popular. At flower shows his services were always in requisition, and few exhibitions of any importance were held in Derbyshire at which he did not ofiiciate either as steward or judge. He was fifty-two years of age, a widower, and had six children. Previous to taking charge of the gar- dens at Chatsworth, Mr. Speed was gardener to Sir Edward Walker, Berry Hill, Mansfield, where he gained considerable fame as a Grape-grower. He had also served some time at Belvoir Castle and Wrotham Park, where he laid the foundation of that practical knowledge he subsequently displayed in the management of the noble gardens of which he bad charge and which he conducted so satis- factorily. Naming plants.— Four ki-ndst qf plants or flowers only can be named at one time, and this only when good specimens are sent. Names of plants.— W. II. Jf.— Bryophjllum calyci- num. A. H. — Appears to be one of the Pittosporums, but cannot name witliout seeing riowers. — -J. C — 1, Cu- pressus macrocarpa ; 2, NVelUngtonia (Sequoia) gigantea; 3, Cryptomeria japonica; 4, Thuja oecidentalis. W, Bxdmer. — A species of Morniodes, but cannot name with certainty from the withered fl'-.wers. J. D. — Salvia leu- cantha. Subscriber. — 1, Seduni .album ; 2, Thuja occiden- talis; 3, Stachys lanata ; 4, send wlien in flower. O. Paul inches in diameter. Hence, if you desire to in- crease your stock, you will find it best to leave the plants in the ground under lights and not to take them up. Mr. Max Leichtlin takes off the lights late in July or early in August, and leaves the plants fully exposed all the winter. Now, " whatever Mr. Max Leichtlin does is right" has become by experience one of my cardinal doctrines in gar- dening, but qualified by the addition " at Baden- Baden." His winters are colder and dryer than ours : he has more snow and less rainy, muggy weather. And I am coming to the conclusion that it is well to manage the lights so that they can be put on during heavy winter rains. But the plants must not be " cossetted " and made tender by too much covering up. Let the lights be off all the autumn in any case, and do not put them on for frost or snow, but use them only to ward off the heavy rains which we too often get in our mild winters. I have some plants which have been fully exposed ever since August last, and I can see by their condition now that I must not expect such good bloom from them as would have come if this winter had been like that of '80-81. If "Veronica" should happen to live in a humid climate like that of Ireland, I would strongly ad- vise him to plant his I. Susiana in thoroughly well drained ground in a sandy, gritty loam under a low south wall, and make arrangements for put-, ting on lights whenever necessary. This may seem a good deal of trouble, but plants of this group, including the new ones promised by Mr. Max Leichtlin, are worth a little trouble. M. FOSTEE. NOTES FROM THE ISLE OF WIGHT. I FOBWAED to you with this a blossom of Nar- cissus monophyllus taken from the open border : I have many more of the same. A little time ago some doubts were expressed in The Garden about the possibility of growing this charming little bulb in the open ground. I feel sure it is only a ques- tion of sufficient sunshine to bake it well. My lamented friend, HarpurCrewe, used to tell me that he never succeeded with it once, either in the green- house or anywhere else at Drayton-Beauchamp. I might almost say I have never failed with it once, and the above is the only explanation I can think of regarding it. Mr. Rawson, some few years ago, gave me some excellent rules, which I followed out to the letter, but I have since then come to see that they are quite superfluous here, and Narcissus monophyllus speaks for itself about that matter. I also enclose a specimen of Xiphion Histrio which has been oat for some days. I know of nothing which more surprises a person who has not seen it before than this captivating little Iris does when it is in blossom in January in the open air. Some of my friends are almost tempted to think that there must be something wrong somewhere to account for its pleasant appearance, and that the laws of Nature have been con- tradicted to produce the phenomenon. It is the most summer-like looking thing that could be imagined, but though it is so pretty there is a still prettier little flower to tread on its heels. Xiphion Histrio is quite eclipsed in point of bright- ness of colour by a sky blue varietj^ of Iris reticu- lata, which I am glad to say I possess. This last in point of colour and of form can hold its own, I think, against any spring flower that could be named. The blue is the blue of the sky, and Xiphion Histrio seems dull by its side. Itis already easy enough in the Isle of Wight to make a nose- gay which puts the winter to flight. Anemone stellata alba is a recent acquisition from Baden- Baden, and I was very anxious when I got it in the autumn to know what it was like. The plant met me half way, for it has been in blossom more or less from that time to this. In addition to these, Iris stylosa in abundance, Hepatica angn- losa, Rhododendron precox, Polygala Chamai- buxus purpurea. Hellebores of at least six diffe- rent sorts. Crocus Imperati and C. Sieberi, Galan- thus Elwc'i, Daphne indica rubra against the outer wall of the greenhouse. Daphne Fioni- ana, Lonicera fragrantissima and L. Standishi, Gentiana verna, and many more things that could be named have begun the dance of the year, which will rapidly go on. The worst of it is, that some of the flowers of the old year are muddled up with their much more inte- resting successors. Senecio puJcher, Schizostylis coccinea, Tritoma Burchelli, &c., cannot at all realise the fact that Christmas has come and gone, and they give the garden a sort of confused look of neither autumn nor spring. I never knew autumn flowers and spring flowers so completely to shake hands as they are doing just now. There has been no winter at all here, and we are jump- ing from one season to another without the slight- est reference to what should properly come between them. The consequence of it all is, that we shall pay dearly for our present amuse- ment in the spring. These delightful little appearances, which are hailed by us every day, will soon come to a dead stop, and the flowers that are now opening so confidingly to the sun will be sent back helter-skelter to their beds. Leaves will be browned and blossoms will be torn to pieces, and there is certain to be a kind of wil- derness season kere before long. If Keble had lived in the Isle of Wight, I think he would have very considerably altered the lice in one of his well-known verses which begins with, " Soon o'er their heads." I should say that to suit us in such a year as this seems likely to be "fierce ''should be read in that line instead of " blithe," and " rave " in- stead of "sing." It is a forecast of this sort in March and April, and ptrhaps May, which makes it almost a melancholy sight to see such pre- cocious efforts abounding. I am glad to say that Tecophyhca cyanocrocus is doing very well in the open ground. It seems to be as strong and as happy as if there were no prefix to w-ords of eight syllables. Disa grandifioia has also prospered in the open since July of last year. I am longing for some 16° or 17° of frost to put its powers of endurance to the test. The strange softness of the season is no blessing to me in my garden, but I console myself with the thought that when this gentle and mealy-mouthed winter has passed by and the grim savagery of spring has had its fling, there will be a long time left in the year for the quiet enjoyment otflowers. H. Ewbank. .Si;. John's, Ryde. ST. BRIGID'S CHRISTMAS ROSE. We have no hesitation in pronouncing an opinion as to what we regard the peculiar aspect and peer- less beauty of this grand variety of Christmas Rose named as above by Mr. Burbidge in com- pliment to the enthusiastic florist in whose garden at Howth he first saw it. Leaving the matter of nomenclature for others to settle, what we have now to do is to recommend any who cares to have at Christmastide, from the open border, a supply of flowers of purest white, rivalling in size and stainless purity those of the exotic and tender Eucharis, to try and get up a stock of ih'S hardy gem. It is not everyone who has a stove in which to grow the Eucharis; but the humblest can afford a spot for this Hellebore. Walking with a friend in his garden last week, a lowly mass of deep green foliage of a rather peculiar aspect arrested our attention, and for the moment 16 THE GARDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. puzzled us ; we asked what it was. " That's ' St. Brigid's Christmas Rose,'" said our friend ; and then stepping on the border and dividing with with his hands the curtain of greenery which com- pletely concealed the blossoms, and at the same time effectually prevented their defilement from rain or otherwise, a revelation of floral beauty took place which made one stare and stop long to admire. This revelation took the shape of a nest of flowers of spotless white, numbering some dozens, and individually measuring more than 2 inches across. The way in which this variety so effectually conceals its nestlings from sight and preserves them from defilement is not among the least of its recommendations. — Irish Farmers' Gazette. A NATURAL BOG GARDEN. Allow me to say a few words about a genuine bog which we have in this parish. Let it be re- membered that we are in the midst of the chalk formation, joining on to the Wealden clay, and I think it will be generally admitted that a more unlikely spot to find a bog it would be difficult to think of ; yet we have one as pure and unso- phisticated as if it were in the Highlands of Soot- land or the midland counties of Ireland ; but I am bound to say that it exists in a very large and deep sand formation, which is all around it for some distance. It is not large in extent — a few acres perhaps — but it has contrived to gather into it a large number of pure bog plants, such as the Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia), the Cotton Grass (Eriophorum), the Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifo- liata), the Bog Asphodel (Narthecium ossifragum), the Bog Pimpernel (Anagallis tenella), the St. John's Wort (Hypericum elodes) The bog itself is composed of peat earth, while these plants grow mostly in Sphagnum, but underneath is a constant supply of water produced by springs, which flow very gently, but at any rate keep it free from stagnation. So abundant are some of these plants, that at one season the place is quite red with the curious foliage of the Drosera, while other parts are full of the feathery Cotton Grass. Two things suggest themselves ; 1st, how did this bog get there ? is it the remains of some large formation which has receded before the increase o£ draining, &c. ? 2nd, how very difficult it is to arrive at these conditions in the formation of a bog garden ; and that there is this difficulty I am justified in saying, from the failure that I have so often seen where the attempt has been made. Apparently what is required is a loose, mossy, shaking kind of (soil one can hardly call it) bed, where the plants can get suffi- cient soil and yet be continually in gently moving water ; where there are natural springs or gently flowing rivulets it may not be difficult, but in other places it must be extremely so. I was there- fore not disappointed when visiting Kew lately to see that the bog in the new herbaceous garden was not in a very flourishing condition, nor when visiting some of my friends who are ardent lovers of herbaceous plants, to find that the bog garden is either conspicuous by its absence or else in anything but a flourishing condition. I could not possibly attempt bog gardening in my own little place. I have one moist spot in my rockery and here I manage to crowd into it fome plants such as the American Lady's Slipper (Cypripedium spectabile), which does very well, and a few other things, but to attempt a bog garden would involve a loss of time, money, and temper, which I cannot afford ; but none the less can I see the difficulties and, it may be, the mis- takes connected with the attempts (one I have already alluded to) ; then there is a mistake which I have generally seen, and from which Kew is not exempt — bogs are too often placed in low, sheltered and shady parts of the garden ; but let anyone call to minil the spots where he has seen a bog most flourishing, where it has been all aglow with the Drosera or waving acres of the silky Cotton Grass, and he will not need to be reminded that it was in the full blaze of sunlight ; no trees near, no rocks or stones under which the plants might nestle, but all fully exposed both to wind and rain. Why this is not imitated I do not think it difficult to explain. Were there not a perennial supply of water underneath, these bogs would soon become (as one sees sometimes) dried up, and it is this perennial underground moisture that it is so diffi- cult to imitate ; therefore let us put the bog, is the reasoning adopted, where it will not be so much exposed to the sun and will not so soon dry up. And this is done with, as I have said, sad loss to the well-being of the plants. I may be referred, perhaps, to some better instances of bog gardens than I know of, but it must be recollected that such are only secured where a long purse can sup- ply losses to any extent, and so make the bog garden appear what it is not, for where plants are constantly supplied from other sources the merit is not to the owner, but to his means. Very rarely have I seen, for instance, plants of Pingui- cula which have stood for three or four years. I have very often seen them where they have been just planted looking well, and more often where they have been vanishing away after a second year's trial. It may be that I am only writing from a partial knowledge, and that many may be able to say they have succeeded with their bogs and bog plants. I shall be glad to know that I am wrong, and to find that success has attended the efforts of others in cultivating a most interesting class of plants. Delta. Arenaria balearica. — This dwarf trailing plant has evidently found a congenial home in our hardy fernery at Bickley, as is manifest from the luxuriant way in which it is clothing the sur- face of the soil and rock with its lively green foliage. The fernery extends over a piece of ground on the shady side of a large conservatory, but it is not shaded by trees of any kind. The soil is a mixture of loam and peat, and has rough stones rising out of it in a natural manner. The Ferns, which consist of the smaller growing varie- ties, are not very numerous at present, so that if it were not for such plants as this Arenaria a large portion of the soil would be bare and unin- teresting. It makes a dense carpet of healthy, cheerful green, and grows not more than 1^ inches from the ground. The old Fern fronds are allowed to remain as protection for the Ferns, and the pretty effect of the green carpet just alluded to, the brown of the fronds, and the tips of the projecting rock and stones is such as is rarely met with. 1 have seen this Arenaria in some places with a starved appearance, owing probably to its being under the drip of trees and scarcely any- thing but bare stones to grow upon. It seeds freely, and is certainly very pretty, situated as it is at Bickley. — T. Jennings. LiObelias from seed.— Many who make a practice of raising Lobelias from seed sow in warmth in early spring. This is neither the best nor the easiest way, as if sown now and kept in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, the seed will come up quite as well, if not so quickly as later on in heat. By sowing now the plants will get a long season of growth and will be in every way better for planting out ; having been grown quite cool, they will be more robust and enduring than when subjected to a hurrying temperature. Sow rather thinly in pans and boxes and place them near the light, covering the pan with a piece of glass until the young plants appear. If the seed is good it will not be long in germinat- ing ; and as the young plants will get plenty of air from their infancy, they will develop into compact little specimens by the time they are needed for out-door decoration. It is a mistake to put bedding Lobelias singly into small pots ; the better plan is to prick them out when large enough to handle into pans or boxes, eventually planting them out in rather light, well-prepared soil in a cold frame. If put into pots, they must have frame room during April and part of May, and if they can be set out as recommended by the middle of March they will make a great amount of roots, and will be in fine condition by the latter end of May. It would be better if all bedding plants could be grown without pots, as oftentimes the roots get matted, forming hard balls, which are apt, when put into the loose earth, to become and remain over-dry. In any case, if pots are used, it is better to put two plants in a pot, as the pulling apart loosens the ball and obviates this danger. — J. C. B. Rose Garden. TRANSPLANTING ROSES. Seldom have we had so fine a season as this has been for transplanting. There have been few days in which this operation could not have been profit- ably performed from the end of October until now. Doubtless this long spell of suitable weather for such purposes has been turned to good account by rosarians, not only in making new plantations, but in lifting and replanting old beds and borders of Roses. Where the latter are grown to perfection, the treatment of the plants as a permanent crop must be almost abandoned. No crop exhausts the soil or renders it unfit for perfect growth sooner than the Rose. Though faith in the theory of the excrementation of roots must be abandoned, yet root sickne.«s assuredly cannot always be traced to any exhaustion of the soil. The earth seems to get tired of the Roses, and in such cases, where a change of site is impossible, the next best thing is to force the roots into new channels by trans- plantation. If at the same time liberal additions of maiden soil or fresh compost can be added ta the land, so much the better ; but, as T have shown elsewhere, the mere root disturbance incidental to lifting and replanting often proves a powerful and much-needed stimulus to new and more vigorous growth. Root lifting places the feeding extremities in a new place, which is almost equivalent in not a few instances to fresh soil. The exhaustion of the latter when and where it really takes place is mostly accomplished piecemeal. The roots of Ixosep seldom permeate or exhaust the entire mass of earth, hence the vital importance of the redis- tribution of roots that results from transplanta- tion. The change of place brings them a change of food, or more abundant supplies. But transplan- tation does more and better than this ; it multi- plies the numbers and improves the quality of the roots ; it thus augments the power of root force by a compound process ; the one root becomes many by the simple means of transplanting, and by the same process the absorptive energy of the roots is quickened, and their powers indefinitely en- larged. Manuring. — When maiden soils and fresh com- posts are added to the soil, or when the Roses are placed in new beds and borders, the roots are in that case furnished with full supplies of fresh food which is speedily utilised for the benefit of the plants. No transplanting can be done without an interregnum as to growth. But this where the operation is skilfully performed is of much shorter duration than is generally supposed, and is fol- lowed by such abnormal activity of root growth as to quickly and more than compensate the plants for their forcible arrestment of progress. The best season for the planting and transplanting of Roses is that included from October 1.5 to the end of November. Roots detached from the soil or dis- turbed at that season hasten to grip it anew and possess it again as quickly as possible. Still, with open weather such as we have now such operations as the planting and transplanting of Roses may still be proceeded with ; the benefit will be less marked than if it had been done sooner, but it will still prove beneficial. A surface mulch sufficiently thick to preserve the roots frost- proof is, however, more essential to success in winter and spring than in autumn planting. The roots have now less time to re-establish them- selves than if moved in the early autumn, and hence the need of greater care against their being forcibly arrested by frost. Nor is a stoppage the only or worst evil to newly moved roots. Their abnormal activity brings with it unnatural tender- Jan. 12, 1884.] THE GAKDEN 17 ness ; hence an equal degree of cold is tar more injurloas to recently disturbed than to old-esta- blished roots, and hence also the need of more thorongh and secure mulching. Finally, the Easy and safe transplantation of Koses places a new and valuable power in the hands of the landscape gardener and decorator. It places valuable formative and colouring material within his reach, to be placed where and in what propor- tions he pleases. The larger trees and other sub- jects in our landscapes are of necessity fixtures. Koses have also been too generally associated with tlie permanent furniture of gardens. By treating them as easily mobile, dashes of colour, changes of form, and the most delightful odour could be thrown in where wanted, or removed from points where not needed. D. T. Fish. ROSA POLTANTHA. GARDEN IN THE HOUSE. Undeb this heading there appears in Kose cata- logues a group of Roses that do not seem to receive the attention which they deserve. There are only four or five varieties comprehended in this group, but they are all very charming because of their pretty, compact, rosette-like blossoms and the freedom with which they are produced. It is re- commended that they be used as edgings to large beds of Roses, which is an excellent suggestion, as they are good growers and very hardy. We are indebted to the late Mr. Robert Fortune for this group of Roses, for he introduced R. polyantha from Japan about twenty years ago. It has a marked individuality of its own, being distin- guished from any other type by its panicled blooms. Several very pleasing new varieties of it have been oDtained from seed, the following being the most valuable : Anna Maria de Montravel, white flowers, produced in clusters, very double and sweet — an exceedingly pretty dwarf cluster Kose ; Madame C. Brunner, a light pink or blush form of the above, differing only in colour ; Pa- querette, pure white, flowering in large bunches and very continuous in bloom ; and Mignonette rosy pink, charming in colour, very fine, and really beautiful as a miniature Rose. So far we have seen these varieties produced only in pots, and so cultivated, they appear to take on a lanky character, but this does not illustrate all that can be done with this charming race of Roses. It, how- ever, should be remarked that the later varieties of these Roses do not show so much of the panicled form as is found in the species ; and this is attri- buted in a great extent to the type having single flowers, which seed abundantly, having been cross-fertilised through insect agency, and thus the character of certain garden varieties has been imparted to the offspring. One authority on the Rose recommends rosarians to try artificial fertili- sation on the other types, as if we could get Tea-scented Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals with flowers in panicles, we should change the whole aspect of the Rose garden, and in a most interest- ing way modify the Rose genus. Because these miniature Roses are so well deserving of a wider recognition, it is desirable that public attention should be called to their merits. Some people are found complaining that Roses, like Dahlias, are becoming too ponderous ; here, therefore, is some- thing for them of an opposite description. R. D. SHORT lYOTUS.— ROSES. Madame Oswald de Kerchove.— It seems certain that Mr. Frettiiigham and I have not grown the same Rose. My plant was so inferior compared with other Hybrid Per- petuals, that I destroyed it at the end of tlie second year. I hope, however, to get this Rose again from a different source, as a wliite Rose possessing the qualities which Mr. Frettingham says his does must be invaluable. — J. C. C. Eose Souvenir de la Malmaison.— This is one of the best of the Boiu-bon Koses, and as an autumn bloomer it has no equal in any class. As a spring, summer, or winter flowerer it has nothing to recommend it, but in September and October it is quite a charming Rose. The blooms are very delicate in colour and produced in huge clusters. The majority of the blooms measure from 6 inches to s inches across. It does moderately well as a bush, and first-rate as a climber on sunny or shaded walls.— J. Mdir. THOUSANDS OF ROSE BUDS. Under this heading the JVem York Times of the 16th ult. has a long article on flowers and the prices which they fetch in that city, from which we make the following extracts : The sales-room is that of one of the largest commission dealers in flowers in New York. " I want 50 Jacs," said an elderly gentleman with :i capacious basket who had come for his daily supply, '*a dozen Mermets, 100 sprays of Mignonette, 200 Carnations, 200 Camellias, 50 strings of Smilax, 25 Lilies of the Valley, and 50 Bouvardias." The articles were counted off as he named them and put into the basket, where they hardly covered the bottom, and yet the wholesale price of the order was £16. The basket would easily hold .£100 worth of Roses or £200 worth even of Lilac sprays, which at this season of the year are among the most valuable of flowers. Orders followed rapidly, and by noon the counters were as bare as Mother Hubbard's cupboard. " Until 10 years ago," explained the commission dealer after the florists had gone, " the flower- growers sold their stock to the florists direct, but with the growth of the business there became a necessity for middlemen, and now nearly the entire merchantable stock of flowers used in New York passes through the brokers' hands. The business of growing fine flowers for the market has become a great industry ; hundreds of thousands of dollars are invested in hothouses, and the pro- duct amounts to over £-100,000 a-year at the wholesale prices. There are over 500 men en- gaged in the business, many of whom are million- aires who have made the profit on their gardens pay the expenses of their places and a handsome interest on the money besides. Flowers now are as staple articles-as wheat or corn. A good Rose- bud is always saleable for cash. This morning you saw our stock ; we had 20,000 Rose-buds on our counters, and every one is sold, and half as many more could have been disposed of if we had had them here." "Flowers this year," he continued, "are cheaper than in former years, and much more of them are used in consequence. The season begins in October and continues until the 1st of July. During the holiday season and about Easter time there is a rush, but as a rule the demand is steady the season through. During the early part of the fall, the weddings, receptions, dinner parties, and afternoon teas keep the florists busy, and when the holidays come, of course the demand in- creases. Church decorations require vast quan- tities of cut flowers, and the demand for Christ- mas gifts makes it pretty lively for the trade. It is then that the highest prices are usually paid. This, however, depends largely upon the season and the weather. Standard Roses, however usu- ally bring a certain price. This year Jacqueminots bring from 2s. to Ss. a bud. The buds to be sale- able must be half blown and hard and solid. They will keep a week when they are cut at this stage of their growth, provided they are put in a cool room, away from the light, and look as fresh at the end of that time as when they are first plucked. The demand for Jacs is always regular. They are a fashionable variety and always have a ready sale. There is *' A STYLE, though, in Roses, as there is in hats. Marechal Niel, which has been the most fashion- able of all Roses for bouquets, has lost its popu- larity to a large extent, and its place has been usurped by the Perle des Jardins, which resembles it closely in appearance and is cheaper and more easily grown. &1. Niel is worth from Is. to 4s. a bud, while the other variety can be bought for much less. M. Niel is a climber and not as ready a bloomer as the Perle. The Cornelia Cook and Niphetos Roses sell from Is. to 2s. apiece, and are very popular. Among the fancy kinds are Madame Hafner, Paul Neron, Baroness Rothschild, and Gloire de Paris — all blush Rose^, so called from their delicate pink colour ; they bring from 3s. to 4s. apiece. They are beautiful and well worth their price. Some of them are nearly 5 inches in diameter. Often they are worth much more, and it is not uncommon to sell them for 12s. and 16s. a bud. Tea Eoses are only worth £1 to £2 per 100. "Lilac is a popular flower now and brings a very high price. Formerly it could only be bought in the spring, but now we have it all the year. It is worth 63. a spray at present, and is used principally in bridal bouquets. Later in the year, when it can be grown out of doors, it is only worth Is. a bunch. The perfection of horticulture, however, has been nearly reached when it has become possible to raise Lilies of the Valley throughout the entire year. It is a May flower in its native state. These delicate buds are worth nearly 4s. a spray. During the summer time, in order to keep the plants from blooming too rapidly, sometimes they have to be placed in ice-houses. There is danger in this method, though, for they often " come blind " when they do bud. Carnations, Camellias, Violets, Heliotropes, Mignonette, and Bouvar- dias are worth about l^d. per bud. Smilax brings Is. 3d. a string. These commoner kinds of flowers are used in tilling in the groundwork of baskets, bouquets, and large decorations for wed- dings or funerals. Some time ago there was a little demand for Daisies and Sunflowers, but it only lasted a short time ; they were used by a very limited circle of people, and the supply always exceeded the demand. From these prices you can form an idea of the value of some large floral decorations. A wedding, with the bell, bouquets, and the table decorations, often amounts to over £200, and a bridal bouquet frequently costs £5. Funeral wreaths, broken pillars, and Greek crosses generally reach £20 each, and often much more. " The business of selling flowers has grown as rapidly as the business of growing flowers, and the brokers seriously contemplate establishing a Flower Exchange, where the business of barter and sale shall be conducted in the same manner as it is on the merchandise exchanges. The brokers, as it is, do a regular commission busi- ness, receiving consignments from all parts of the country, selling the material and remitting the proceeds, minus the commission. Flower sales are cash, and good flowers are good as gold." DRAC^NA GRACILIS. For room decoration this is one of the very best Dracaenas that can be grown. It stands well in- doors, and has a very graceful appearance. Its leaves when strong are fully 14 inches in length, and bright green margined with a band of purplish bronze. If plants are required for table decora- tion, raise them by means of cuttings obtained from the stem after the head has been removed. Plants raised in this way are not so robust as some others at first ; their foliage is narrower and even more arched than when it attains greater strength. Where plants of a light graceful character are re- quired in 4-inch pots, noplant is better ormore suit- able than this Dracajna. The heads, if strong, should be set in 5-inch or 6-inchpots, placing a little sand at their base ; then plunge the pot containing the head in bottom heat if practicable and let it have a night temperature of 00°. Water should be given after insertion, and if the pot is plunged and entirely covered with Cocoa-nut fibre no more water will be needed until rooted. These heads should not be placed in a close frame ; on the con- trary, they root best if treated like Pine suckers. The foliage should be tied up to prevent injury until rooted. By this system not one leaf will be lost. Five-inch or 6 inch pots are large enough in which to grow plants from 2 feet to 2 feet G inches high and nearly the same in diameter, with large bold foliage close to the soil. Plants of this description are easily produced, and when the soil is covered with Lycopods and the plant placed in a vase as a single specimen it presents a striking appearance. Plants raised from cuttings of the stem never look so well for this purpose as those raised by rooting well developed heads, because the former possess much smaller foliage. It is easy to have plants for both purposes, and when they become too large for the dinner table grow 18 THE GARDEN [Jan. 12 1884. them on until well-tormed heads are produced. The latter when taken off before insertion are often 18 inches high. Good fibry loam and sand with a little bone dust and soot is the compost most suitable for this Draciena. We never use larger pots than G inch ones for this plant, and when full of roots we feed with artificial manure. Manifesto. Aralia Sieboldl.— This Aralia has been most approvingly spoken of in The Garden, and no better flne-foliaged plant exists for the embellish- ment of dwelling-rooms, and none with which I am acquainted will bear more rough treatment. A stock of plants can readily be raised from seed sown in spring as soon as it can be obtained, and by the end of the season capital little plants will b3 produced. Propagation by means of cuttings is also readily effected, but the plants produced by both of these means have a number of small leaves at the base, which detract much from their beauty when placed in vases as single specimens. If the tip is taken off with its fine bold foliage and rooted, small leaves become conspicuous en the stump until it is again in active growth. Only a short time ago I saw this difficulty over- come admirably in one of the Chester nurseries. When the plants become leggy and lose their lower foliage, the top is taken off and grafted on its own stem again close to the soil in which the plants are growing. Saddle grafting is that adopted, and the scion and stock, if kept for a short time in a close frame, soon become united. I was informed that the result of this practice was the production of no small leaves at the top, a statement evidently correct, judging by the ap- pearance of a number of plants worked in this manner.— W. B. N. G. Ferns. BEST CULTIVATED FEKNS. ( Continutd from page 581, Vol. XXIV.) LOMAEIA DURA (L. rigida).— This fine ever- green species from the Chatham Islands is of a very peculiar habit, inasmuch as its very thick fronds, of a leathery texture, which seldom attain . ii o ; — Urt.. +rt ^C\ inflioa in hpitrht bv 2 more than 8 inches to 10 inches in height by inches in breadth, are lanceolate in shape and quite erect in habit. These are pinnatifid, with pinna; closely set, and are produced from a thick, but fleshy crown, which keeps on the surface of the ground. It is altogether a fine, sturdy- growing plant of a striking deep green colour, and very distinct. Greenhouse L. ELONGATA.— A very ornamental and useful New Zealand species, of medium size and very good growth. Its fronds, which are produced abundantly from a slightly decumbent rhizome, are pinnatifid, divided nt-arly down to the rachis, with massive pinna;, about 4 inches long by nearly 2 inches in breadth, disposed all along the upper half of the frond, but the lower ones give the plant a very peculiar appearance, for they seem to be only imperfectly developed ; they are small, rounded, and form a sort of wing down the stalk, which is not observable in any other kind belong- ing to the genus. Being thoroughly evergreen and of a gracefully arching habit, the fronds, which often reach 20 inches in length, make it a most attractive kind, the more so that they are of a dark heavy green colour, which they retain for a very long time on the plant. Greenhouse. L. FLUVIATILIS.— This is a most distinct New Zealand evergreen species, in general aspect widely different from any other known Lomaria. It is of very dwarf habit, although its curious pin- nate sterile fronds often measure from 18 inches to 20 inches in length. These are produced from a fleshy crown, and possess a drooping character, which renders the plant well suited for growing in hanging baskets of small dimensions. Culti- vated in that way, it not only shows itself to greater perfection, but it is also more beneficial to the plant, for it the fronds are allowed to lie on the ground, which, being of a decumbent habit, they are bound to do, they will soon be damaged by constant contact with a body naturally moist, in which case they rapidly get discoloured and de- teriorated. The picEEe, which are alternate and disposed all along the rachis, from the 'ery base are of a particularly rounded form, ciliated on their edges, and covered on both sides with a pro- fusion of reddish chaffy hairs ; the rachis and the crown itself are both densely clothed with black or very dark brown, narrow, chaffy scales. The fertile fronds, also pinnate, are of a thoroughly erect habit, and produced from the centre of the plants, from four to six being the number gene- rally found upon them ; they are very much con- tracted, and seldom exceed 8 inches in height. Greenhouse. L. Fraseki. — This New Zealand species is, per- haps, the most charming and undoubtedly the most finely divided kind of the whole genus. Although a few years ago it could be found in most of the good collections, where it was always considered a general favourite on account of its beautiful feathery fronds, which have somewhat the appearance of those of a Struthiopteris ger- manica, it is now very seldom met with ; yet when grown successfully, as it was by Mr. Pilcher, in the collection of the late Mr. Sigismund Eucker, at Wandsworth, hardly any Fern can compete with it for elegance. Its very handsome bipinnate fronds, of a graceful habit, are produced in quan- tities from a tough, wiry crown, which in time forms a slender stem of small dimensions. Both fertile and barren fronds in this interesting species are similar in shape and size, growing from about 10 inches to 12 inches high ; the only noticeable difference between the two kinds of fronds is that the barren ones are of a bright glossy dark green on both surfaces, whereas the ■ fertile ones, al- though also of a bright dark green colour and more erect, are densely covered with bright red soil. It is a plant which requires constant mois- ture at the roots. Greenhouse. L. GiiiEA. — A very fine species from New Caledonia and certainly the most useful Lo- maria in cultivation for decorative purposes, as may be inferred by the enormous quantities which every season find their way to the flower markets and florists' shops, where, in the young state especially, they aie found invaluable for dinner- table decoration, and where they rival even the most graceful Palms and other plants of elegant habit. This well-known species is remarkable principally on account of the very symmetrical form of its growth, which is also very rapid. In- deed, it is probably owing to this last-named quality, and also from the fact that it can be easily raised from spores and quickly grown in heat where it does not mind moisture overhead, that it has become such a popular and widely cultivated plant. The fronds, which are deeply pinnatifid, are produced in great abundance from a fleshy crown, which in course of time makes a stem attaining some 4 feet and even 5 feet in height. These fronds, which have somewhat of an erect habit when the plant is still in a young state, become more pendulous as the specimen gets older, and are of a very elegant, arching habit when the stem is formed. Besides being used as a decorative plant, it is also remarkably well adapted for exhibition purposes, as it makes splendid specimens, some 4 feet to 6 feet across, and being so regular in growth is perfectly dis- tinct from any other Fero . Considering the extent to which it is grown, it is surprising to see so few variations worth noticing among the numberless seedlings raised every season. It is true that some are much coarser growers and more relaxed in habit than the typical plant ; but even that is not a permanent character, as it does not per- petuate itself. The only two varieties which are properly fixed, and at the same time well worth cultivating, are the L. gibba Belli and L. gibba crispa. The former, found among some seedlings in a London nursery (I believe Osborn's), is most effective and beautiful, for its long forked fronds, in all respects as handsome as those of the species itself, are rendered very attractive and ornamental by the dense tassels which are produced at their extremities, and the points of all the pinnae are equally provided with crests of a smaller size. Although a very good grower, this interesting variety remains very rare on account of the slow process of propagation to which it is subjected ; being a naturally barren plant, it is only increased by offsets, which are now and then, but never plentifully, produced along Ihe stem, and which when detached and carefully tended soon make little plants, always partaking of all the cha- racters of the mother plant. The variety crispa, which is much more plentiful, as it is as easily produced by spores as the species proper, is very remarkable and extremely ornamental. It is of dwarf and close habit. Its very pretty fronds, produced in a very elegant and pleasing way, seldom reach more than 8 inches in height and form a very compact little specimen. They are pinnate, extremely dense, and beautifully curled at the margins ; the whole plant is of a deep sea-green colour. This last variety thrives best in the greenhouse. L. GiLLiESi — An evergreen species from Chili, and one which is often mistaken for L. chilensis, which it resembles only so far as the texture, of a very tough, leathery substance is peculiar to both plants alike. It is, however, totally distinct from it, as all other characters are essentially different. Unlike L. chilensis, it forms an upright stem, from which the barren, pinnate fronds are produced. These, instead of being of arching habit, are of a somewhat rigid appearance, and ever so much shorter, seldom exceeding 2 feet in height, and with pinna; set much closer. The stems on which they are borne also differ in colour, for they are of a light green in this case, whereas those of L. chilensis are of a pinkish hue, and also much longer. The fertile fronds, also pinnate, are very much contracted, but it very often happens that only half of the fertile pinnje are contracted, which deformity is, however, sometimes met with in L. chilensis. Greenhouse. L. LANCEOLATA. — This is an exceedingly pretty evergreen species from Tasmania and New Zea- land, particularly attractive on account of its dwarf and compact habit, as well as through the lively colour of its young fronds, which are beau- tifully ornamented with a bright purple band run- ning through their centre. These fronds, which are produced in great abundance from a close, fleshy crown, are lanceolate in shape and pinnati- fid, smooth on both sides, and seldom exceed 8 inches in height. Although in their young state they are of a pale or yellowish green and marked with a purple median band and numerous veins of the same colour, when mature they are of an intense dark green as well as the fertile fronds, which are also pinnate, erect, but which never show the lively tints peculiar to the barren fronds only. Greenhouse. L. L'Heeminieei. - This very handsome species from Tropical America is as distinct as it is beau- tiful. Although not a really arborescent kind, it nevertheless forms a slender, wiry stem on which its prettily-coloured pinnatifid fronds are very closely set, forming plants of very compact habit and somewhat pyramidal in shape ; the fronds are very numerous and produced in a half erect position, which, on account of their stiff, leathery texture, they maintain as long as they remain on the plant. These fronds, which rarely exceed 8 inches in height, are furnished on their wholelength with ovate pinnie, the basal pair being much attenuated. It is a most attractive kind, as its foliage when young is of a beautiful crimson, changing with age to a glossy light green. It is, unfortunately, not very common in collections, al- though now and then fine specimens may be seen where several shoots have started at different intervals from the side of the main stem, and developed so as to form a four or six-branched plant, which is then highly decorative. Besides being one of the Lomarias most sensitive to moisture on the fronds, it is also one requiring peat and sand only to thrive well, as loam, unless very light and fibrous, is injurious to its progress. Stove. Jan. 12, 1884,] THE GARDEN 19 L. MAGELLANICA. — A splendid and robust- growing species from Chili, Juan Fernandez, and Falkland Islands, and one easily distinguishable on account of its line, bold habit, which is shared by very few other members of the genus. Its beautiful pinnate fronds, which grow from 18 inches to 24 inches in length, are of a tough, leathery teiture, and produced from a short, stout arborescent caudex, which is the result of many years' growth. They are of a very dark green colour and reach from 20 inches to 30 inches in length ; they are borne on firm, stout stalks, very scaly near their base, a character which is also peculiar to the crown of the plant itself, where the broad brown scales are very dense. The pinnse, somewhat closely set, are large, lanceolate in form, and very coriaceous. It makes a splendid specimen when planted in the greenhouse. Pell^a. DOUBLE SPATHED CALLAS. Having read the very instructive article on the Arum family in The Garden (Dec. 1, 1883), I would be most likely to perpetuate the form. I might say that my plant from some unknown cause rotted daring the next few months, but we succeeded in growing a quantity of plants from the bulblets taken from the sides of the old tuber ; they, however, all produced, when grown, single spathes similar to those of the ordinary cultivated form. L. B. Case. IHchviond, Tyidiana, U.S.A. HORTICULTURE IN NEW ZEALAND. The following extracts from a letter just re- ceived from a correspondent at Wellington, New Zealand, may perhaps interest some of your readers : " Horticulture receives a good deal of attention here, there being no fewer than five good sized nurseries (5 acres to 10 acres in extent) and no end of market gardens around the town. I doubt if our Roses, Cinerarias, Ericas, Calceo- larias, Mimuli, and Auriculas could be surpassed even at home. Nothirg like them can be pro- duced in Australia, and even in private gardens it is not unusual to find from 100 to l.TO different venture to direct attention to a double form of the common Calla (Richardia sethiopica) that is occasionally produced, but which no one seems capable of perpetuating as a distinct form or va- riety. A few years ago I was fortunate enough to obtain a fine specimen of a double form of the Calla with three more or less perfect spathes, one enclosed within the other, and had a very faithful and correct engraving made from a photograph of it to use in the Botanical Index. The engraving (which is here reproduced) shows two perfect white spathes of the ordinary form, one enclosed within the other and nearly encircling a third, but imperfect, spathe, which scarcely rises above the funnel-shaped throat of the first and second spathes. This inner spathe was of the purest, almost transparent, snowy whiteness. The so-called bloom remained in perfection three weeks before it commenced to wither, in Decem- ber and January. Immediately after the number of the Botanical Index containing the above notice was issued we received information from several of our American correspondents that one of their plants had also produced similar abnor- mal forms. Bat no plant that we could bear of ever produced the double form of spathes more than once, and I never knew of anyone succeed- ing in ripening the seed from these forms which Roses. Everything that will grow in the south of England, and thence southward to Gibraltar, will thrive here, but we are very unlucky in getting blights introduced with our importations. Apples, Pears, Cherries, Plums, Grapes, and Mulberries have been attacked by these pests, mostly insect ones, and now all our Peach trees are dying from some infectious disorder, of which we cannot discover the cause. It was in- troduced about five years ago with some choice new sorts imported from Melbourne, and has travelled from orchard to orchard for a distance of fully ten miles from where it first appeared. The first indication of it consists in the trees not coming properly into leaf in the spring, only a small tuft of leaves being produced at the very end of the shoots. The fruit shrivels and drops before it is halt grown, and in the autumn the tree dies entirely. I have had about fifty trees in my orchard for the last thirty years, and have grown several tons of Peaches every season, but I doubt if this year I shall have a hundredweight, and I do not think a single tree will survive next winter. Many people have tried cutting down their trees as scon as the disease appeared and letting them produce new shoots. This at first seemed as though it would answer, as the young wood looked healthy, but we found that as it got old enough to bear the disease appeared again and killed the trees. It is playing havoc all over the colony, and we can find neither insect, mould, nor any other apparent cause ; all we know is that the trees are dying, and that ere long there will be no Peaches in the colony except imported ones." This is a serious state of matters. Some of your readers may be able to throw some light on the subject, and give advice as|to what should be done. Murrat/ficld, Edinburgh.' P. Neill Feaser. CHRYSANTHEMUM REFORM. I AM glad to see that Mr. Engleheart disavows any attempt to disparage the " work of the Temple gardeners, or of any other exhibitors of Chrysanthemums." What I object to is the per- petual reference to Nature's handiwork. Nature is much too tricky for us to follow, and conse- quently of late years we have been aiming to make Nature subservient to Art, and who shall say we have not succeeded. It is skill and perseverance that have brought the Chrysanthe- mum to its present excellence, and are we to give up these achievements to the tender mercies of wild Nature ? Mr. Engleheart asks if it "would be praiseworthy to strip a monthly Rose of all but three or four flowers, if by so doing we could get them of fourfold size ? " I say no, certainly not ; it would be about as unwise as to disbud a Pompone Chrysanthemum. Mr. Engleheart would discard any Chrysanthemum that re- quires disbudding in order to secure fine blooms in favour of those requiring little or no skill to bring to perfection and this practice he considers the right one. I, too, grow, and advise others to grow, his favourite free-blooming varie- ties in large quantities, more especially for con- servatory decoration and for furnishing cut blooms, and in addition we also grow as many disbudded plants for the production of grand blooms, which prove an object of envy or admiration, as the case may be, to the majority who see them. If I prefer the latter, as I have before admitted, that is no reason why I should grow them exclusively, and abase my neighbour's taste if he happens to prefer the more profusely flowered plants. Mr. Engle- heart writes as if he and a few more only are in the right track ; bat to be consistent he and others who side with him ought also to condemn the method now in vogue of growing and showing Roses, Dahlias, Carnations, and the dressing of these and other flowers, as well as the method of training and showing of Pelargoniums and innu- merable other plants. Either it is all wrong from beginning to end, or Mr. Engleheart is be- hind the times. It is at shows where we expect to see, and do see, " better things," and not often in the gardens of enthusiastic would-be reformers. W. I. M. Kitchen Garden. NOTES ON FORCING VEGETABLES. Asparagus. — This can be had from December till it is ready to cut from ordinary garden beds, and the latter will yield a supply till crops of Green Peas take the place of Asparagus, which may behad continuously from six to seven months by grow- ing a sufficient number of plants to lift for forcing. After beds have been planted for a number of years, some of the plants will die ; then the beds become unprofitable, and it seldom pays to renew them. When only a few plants are required for forcing it is a good plan to lift plants for that pur- pose, when new beds should be made to take their place. Where Asparagus is much wanted during the season, a regular system of culture is carried out. As many new beds should be made each spring as are required to be lifted each season for forcing, and when once the number of beds is established, a regular supply can be had. Plants which have been growing four years in well pre- pared beds will produce fine strong heads. Plants three years old are sometimes lifted for forcing, but except they are well-grown plants, they will be found to be unprofitable ; the heads come weak 20 THE GAEDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. and are only fit for soups. The roots may be forced in several different structures, such as in pits heated by means of hot - water pipes or smoke flues, by keeping the soil in which the roots are planted moist, as such pits have very dry atmospheres if not well at- tended to with water. Asparagus may also be forced with equal success upon a bed of ferment- ing material, placing an ordinary garden frame upon the bed in question. If forced in a pit having bottom heat, place a quantity of rough lumpy soil in the bottom ; on this set the roots moderately close together and shake some fine soil among them, covering them to the depth of 2 inches or 3 inches. Water the whole well to settle the soil ; then the lights may be put on, and a steady moist temperature of about GO^ main- tained. Ordinary hotbeds composed of stable manure and leaves also answer well for Aspara- gus. They should be 4 feet high at the back and 3 feet in front. Place the plants as in the pit just described. After the heat declines to 60° or 65°, a little ventilation should be left at the back for the steam to escape. By using fresh linings of hot manure round the bed to keep up the tem- perature, two, and sometimes three, successive sets of roots may be forced before the bed loses its heat. Where Asparagus is forced extensively the permanent beds in the garden are covered with frames heated sometimes with hot- water pipes underneath the beds and sometimes with fer- menting material. A few roots may likewise be forced in large pots or boxes placed in a vinery or Peach house at work. In such a case, after the tops are cut, the roots are of no further use. Rhubarb. — This is one of the easiest of vege- tables to force, which may be done in any struc- ture having a temperature ranging from 55° to 60°, or the stools may be covered in the open air with lidded boxes 2 feet in height and sufficiently wide to accommodate the crowns, llhubarb pots, too, are often used. They may be bought at any pot- tery, and with care will last for years. The easiest method of forcing Rhubarb is to lift some strong stools and plant them in large pots or boxes, and place them under glass, or the stools may be set moderately close together upon the ground, cover- ing them with soil 2 inches above the crowns. Then give them a thorough soaking with water to settle the soil amongst the roots. Afterwards, too, when in active growth, they must be well attended with water, or the stems will be tough and stringy. Any structure will suit Rhubarb, provided it has a warm, moist temperature. A Mushroom house at work will be found a suitable place for it, or underneath the stage of a forcing house, or vinery, or I*each house. A forcing pit heated with hot water is, however, the best place for it where required in large quantities and of the very best quality. When forced in the open garden underneath pots or boxes, a heapof warm ma- nure must be placed round each box. Where not forced some long litter placed over thecrowns early in spring will encourage earlj- growth, when a few dishes may be had before the general crop comes into use. Seakale. — By means of a little forcing, this may be had when other vegetables are scarce. Where Seakale has been well cultivated during summer, fine strong crowns, which will yield an abundant supply of fine heads when forced, may be obtained. They may either be forced on the ground where they grow, or be lifted and forced in some structure, having a temperature ranging from 60° to 60°. When lifted in autumn any roots not wanted when the first lot is forced should be re-planted and covered with long litter or Bracken in ^order to be in readiness for lifting and potting should frosty weather set in. Put as many roots in each pot as it will conveniently hold, running some fine soil in amongst them up to the level of the crowns. The whole should then receive a good soaking of water. Place the pots thus filled if possible under cover until required for forcing. Under such conditions young rootlets will be formed, and the plants when placed in the forcing house will be found to start more freely into growth than those exposed to the open air. The plants in pots will require to be covered with other pots of the same size inverted firmly upon Moss put between the rims so as to exclude all light ; the hole in the bottom of the empty pot must also be closed with a piece of slate or tile or wet clay. If not in perfect darkness the Kale will have a greenish, or sometimes a bronzy, colour, and therefore worthless. Any stmcture in which a sufficiently high temperature is maintained will do for Seakale provided perfect darkness is secured. The soil must be kept moderately moist ; if allowed to get dry the Kale will be tough and stringy. Seakale succeeds well in a Mushroom house, or underneath the stage of a forcing house. We are forcing some in pots very successful underneath the stage of the Cattleya house, close to the pipes ; the roots have been in the pots since November, and have needed but little heat. A winery at work or a Peach house also suits Seakale, and later on it may be brought forward under- neath a greenhouse stage. It may also be forced upon an ordinary hotbed, planting the roots in soil 4 inches apart and covering them up to the level of the crowns with soil. Make the frame perfectly dark inside by shading it with some thick material. When forced in the open ground pots must be placed over the crowns prepared for forcing, and they should be covered with warm manure and leaves about 3 feet in depth. See that too much heat is not generated, for if that happens the Kale will get scalded and be rendered useless. The roots that have been forced in pots must be laid in some light soil and covered over with dry litter until spring, when they should be planted to come in for another season's forcing. A supply of forced Kale may be had from De- cember till it is fit to cut from plants covered out of doors. Wm. Christison. Woodham Hall, Woldng. VEGETABLES WORTH GROWING. Almo.st every post now brings us a seed cata- logue, some containing only a brief list of vege- tables, others the names of nearly every vegetable known. The merits of some are set forth by illus- trations, both coloured and otherwise, and the novelties are furnished with recommendations from well-known growers, but besides tliese there are multitudes of vegetables merely men- tioned by name, and therefore the uninitiated have great difficulty in deciding what to order and what to avoid. Much loss may soon occur through grow- ing inferior sorts, and also sorts that become fit for use at the wrong season. Testing the merits of new vegetables is one of the most interesting oc- cupations which anyone can take in hand in con- nection with a kitchen garden, and all who have time and space to devote to it should do all they can in this way, as they will be benefited by it themselves in the shape of choice and good pro- ductions, and the information gained if imparted to others may be useful. With this, therefore, in view I will briefly point out a few of the good qualities belonging to the following, well know- ing that one and all of them are capable of giv- ing satisfaction to all classes of cultivators. Asparagus. — Forcing this is an easy matter; abundance of it may be had from November until July. Good cultivation will always produce lEirge roots, but fine heads only come from the best sorts, and the more carefully the stock is saved the better will be the produce. The Early Purple Argenteuil is a fine sort when procured quite true, and Conover's Colossal, a deep green-coloured kind, is first-rate for general culture. I am inclined to think Reading Giant, Carter's Slam- moth, Emperor, and several others prefaced with seedsmen's names are only selections from this, and not very distinct, but so long as they are not inferior to the original perhaps little harm is done. Where much Asparagus is forced, young roots must be raised annually, and there is no better way of doing this than by means of seed. Artichokes. — Of these there are two kinds in the Globe section, and tliey are very distinct, the one producing purple heads and the other green ones. The purple one is said to be the favourite in France, but in English gardens the green one is always the finest, being larger than the other and more tender. None come very true from seed, however, and in order to have them pure suckers or young plants must be obtained. Globe Arti- chokes are not much of a cottager's vegetable, but when nicely cooked they are much valued. The Jerusalem Artichoke may be cooked like a Potato or used in soups, but it can only be propagated and increased profitably by planting the small tubers or roots. About this time we lift our crop, pick out the big tubers, and replant the small ones for the next year's crop. When scarce a large one may be cut up into a number of sets. Beans. — These form an important crop in most gardens, and everybody knows the three kinds — dwarf. Runner, and Broad. The dwarfs have the advantage of growing and podding without any support, but this the Runners will not do with the greatest degree of profit. Of dwarf-growing sorts, Canadian Wonder and Osborn's Forcing are still the two best. The Canadian is most pro- ductive and good in the open air in summer, and Osborn's is an excellent kind for forcing. Amongst Runners there is a great variety of names, but when many of the plants to which they are at- tached are grown side by side even their intro- ducers could not tell which was which. In fact, they differ more in the seed than in the pod or leaf. Giant White is pure white in the colour of the seed, large in pod, and very prolific ; Girtford Giant if also large in the pod. Champion is a very heavy cropper ; and of the true old Scarlet Runner, Webb's Selected is a thoroughly good kind. Mont d'Or or Golden Butter Bean produces pods not unlike those of Canadian Wonder ; it has, however, the habit of the Runners,;and the pods are pale lemon, tender, and good. Broad Beans, although no great favourites with professional cooks, are much valued by many, and there are plenty of sorts from which to select. The Windsor varieties are not now considered worth much. Early Mazagan is the earliest of all, and Aquadulce is one of the largest podded. Seville Long-pod is a good sort, prolific and tender, and, as an all-round sort of the highest merit, I would make special mention of Kinver Mammoth. Beet. — Medium-sized clean roots and richly- coloured flesh are the points to secure in Beet, and the true Dell's Crimson possesses all those qualities in a high degree. Broccoli. — Of this not a great many sorts are needed to give a supply trom November till June. None of the autumn sorts equal Yeitch's Self-pro- tecting, and from November until the new year at least it may be fully relied on. Snow'sisnotsogood as Backhouse's for January, and Webb's Perfection, Wheeler's Winter, and Reading Giant are ex- cellent in February and March. Webb's Cham- pion" is a fine sort for cutting in April, and Sutton's Late Queen has no equal in May. Brussels Sprouts. — Many are now beginning to discover that the improved Sprouts now pro- duced in the form of small Cabbages are flavour- less compared with the little marble-like balls of the old kind. Although I have grown the big ones, I find that the small compact sorts are the hardiest and best flavoured. As a large one, Sutton's Exhibition will meet all demands where size is concerned, and the small ones are best re- presented by the Dalkeith and Rosebery varie- ties. Of the former I have now one of the most even quarters of Sprouts ever possessed. Borecole or Kale is only acceptable after a severe winter, and the best varieties of it are the Cottagers' Kale and Wheeler's Imperial Hearting. The Asparagus variety is nicely flavoured, but not very hardy, a defect in this class of vegetable. Cauliflowers— These should come in in May and end in November. The earliest is 'Veitch's. Extra Early Forcing, to which all the other " extra earlies " show a close relationship. To follow this Early London is out of date, and I would substi- tute Webb's Mammoth, following with Sutton's King and finishing with Autumn Giant. Jan. 12, 1884.] THE GARDEN 21 Carrots. — Of these choice varieties only should be grown ; therefore selected Altringhams and Long Surreys should be excluded. French Horn, Nantes Horn, and Intermediate are the only kinds worth growing for quality. lUddle's Stump-rooted is an economical Carrot, alike thick all through and a great favourite with some. Cabbages. — Out of the many we have selected for future culture Cocoa-nut, a little beauty ; Emperor; Allheart, a new one of the highest excellence ; and Redbraes ; Drumhead Cabbages are only useful for cattle, and the Ked for pickling. CuctJMBEES. — Of these the introductions of this year alone would afford a change every month. But, judging from past experience, I am inclined to think that many of them can possess no character for distinctness. Apart from this, however, I know of some which it would be difficult to sur- pass. As an exhibition Cucumber, Tender and True may be grown ; and Empress of India is equal to this in size and beauty, more hardy in constitution, and far more prolific. Cardiff Castle is a distinct kind, which everybody should grow who values a perfect table Cucumber. I may add, too, that when ordering Cucumber seeds, I never omit to send for a few seeds of the true Rollis- son's Telegraph ; not that it is really better than those just named, but one does not like to neglect an old and trustworthy friend. Celert. — As a dwarf kind. White Gem is the most distinct and best white I have seen. In large reds. Mammoth is a solid, crisp, finely- flavoured sort ; and Cole's Crystal White is a good companion to it. The Turnip-rooted Celeriac is very useful for soups or stewing. Choti de Burghlet. — This is not only a dis- tinct, but a really first-class vegetable ; it grows freely, producing fine large delicate heads, which possess all the flavour of the most delicious Broccoli. Those who taste it once would not like to be without it afterwards, especially in the late autumn and winter months. Endive. — The varieties of this are numerous, but now we only grow and recommend one kind, and that is the Batavian Improved Ilound-leaved. From October until April this produces massive heads of the greatest excellence. Lettuces have now been brought to a high state of perfection, and there are plenty from which to choose. Of Cabbage sorts I must men- tion Tom Thumb, a very choice early kind : New Summerhill, large and of good quality ; Mar- vel, a kind quite purple in colour ; and Perfect Gem, a name which well explains its character. Of older kinds All the Year Round and Neapolitan are the best, and for winter Hardy Green and Stanstead Park. Amongst Cos varieties there are now many fine ones, notably Monstrous White, Kingsholm, and Reading Mammoth White, the last a new and excellent variety. Moor Bark, Hick's Hardy White, and Bath Sugarloaf are the most reliable winter kinds. Leeks. — St. David is a kind much grown in Wales and one which gives much satisfaction. The Lyon is not true in character ; some come large and finely formed, but not all. Ayton Castle and Henry's Prize appear to be one and the same ; both are good, and so is the old Musselburgh, Debbie's Champion is no improvement on these, nor is Conqueror. Onions always form an important crop, con- cerning which it is said, " Breathes there a man with soul so dead Who never to himself hath said, This is my own, my Onion bed," and if the Onion grub can be kept off, a good bed too it may be. Giant Zittau is the best of the kinds for autumn sowing, and Banbury, Exhibition, James' Keeping, and Bedfordshire Champion are all excel- lent for summer use. The Queen is a wild, quick- growing kind. Peas. — Good kinds of these are so numerous that the list might easily be made a long one. As a dwarf early, American Wonder merits attention, and so does William I., still a standard sort. Sunrise is not this, but Sangster's No. 1 is. Of second earlies we must name Dr. McLean, and Giant Marrow and Paragon are two very fine Peas. Telegraph, Tele- phone, Stratagem, Triumph, Electric Light, and Stourbridge Marrow are also all good. Of late kinds Latest of All is the finest Pea I have ever grown. Omega and Veitch's Perfection may also be named here. Of midseason Peas on trial last year. Hurst's Duke of Albany was the best. Varieties of vegetables.— French Breakfast. Red and White Turnips, Wood's Early Frame, and China Rose for winter are all good and useful Ra- dishes. Rhubarb may consist of Johnston's St. Mar- tin's and Mitchell's Royal Albert. Savoys of Drumhead, Green Globe, and Dwarf Ulm. Spinach of Round for summer and Prickly for winter use. Of Tomatoes, Trentham, Early Fillbasket, Glamor- gan, and the Drumlanrig are very prolific, large fruited, and very fine in quality ; Greengage is the finest of the yellow-fruiting sorts. Of Turnips select Early Munich, Snowball, Veitch's Red Globe, and Chirk Castle. Where yellow ones are pre- ferred to the latter in winter, Orange Jelly should be grown. Muir's Hybrid Prolific Vegetable Marrows, Mr. Pettigrew, Cardiff Castle, asserts to be the finest flavoured Marrow he ever tasted. The Custard variety has singularity of form to recommend it, and Prince Albert is a good green variety. Potatoes. — As varieties of these multiply it becomes more and more necessary to select the best. Early Ashleaf, C'ovent Garden Perfection, and the Gloucestershire Kidney should all be grown as early Potatoes. Reading Hero, Wheeler's Safeguard, Schoolmaster, Paterson's Victoria, and Champion have much to recommend them as the finest table Potatoes. Scores of others could be named which have been tried here, but their culture would only lead to disappointment, especially in wet unfavourable seasons. Of new and really good Potatoes I have not a large list to offer, but special mention should be made of Sharpe's Victoria, a flatfish round variety of remarkably quick growth, free from dis- ease, and of the highest quality. It is excellent for frames or early borders. Double Gloucester is a seedling from Magnum Bonum, not at all liable to disease, a heavy cropper, good in quality, and likely to become equally well known as the type from which it sprung. J. MuiR. Margam Park, S. Wales. SHORT NOTES.— EITCHEK. Chou do Burghley.— I have grown tliis for two years, and liave come to the conclusion that it surpasses every other vegetable of the Cabbage tribe for delicacy of ffa^'our, and it is quite hardy here. I sow at three different times, so as to liave a succession.— John ^YORTBINGTON, Early Peas.— Our first planting of Paragon Peas has come up strongly, showing a fine, even, healthy plant from one end of the row to the other. I shall piit in a large planting of this v.ariety about the Sth of tliis month.— RICHARD NiSBET, Aswarb'/ Parle. ■Which is the best Potato ?— After repeated trials, I find Scotch Champion to be the very best. It is good in colour and a hea^-y cropper. Tlie flavour, too, is very much in advance of that of all others. Its shape is ugly and it has deep eyes, but nevertheless it is my special favourite.— K. Gilbert, Bnrghtfi/. Celery maggot.— The simplest and most effective way of destrojing this troublesome pest is dusting the leaves with soot on its first appearance, repeating the soot appli- cation as often as it is waslied off by rains. Such dustings are also beneficial to the Celery in other ways besides saving the leaves from being materially injured by the grub.- J. D. E. Earliest of All Pea.— In reply to 5Ir. Iggulden's note on this Pea (p. 519), allow ns to say that we have now for two years grown large breadths of it in an open and much exposed field with the happiest results. It has proved itself under such treatment to be what we have always claimed for it— the eailiest, greenest, and most productive of first-crop Peas.— HooPEK ct Co., Covcnt Garden. 6109 —Mushroom spawn.-It will run and produce Muslu'ooms after being kept two years. — J. D. E. - — As to whether Musliroom spawn will keep good for two years or more, much depends on its (luality at the begmning. Some have remained good with us for yeJirs, and many bricics have been useless at the end of . _ . , twelve months ; but it may easilybeseenwhetherthespawn j thus raised are more hardy'and Shorter in the leg is good or not by breaking the bricks through the middle ; ' than thn^p brnuuht un nndpr p-ln^i-! The sppH nf if many white threads are seen it may be used with safety : „ ^° , °^?. CrO"ght up unaer glass, ilie seed ot but when the whole has a dull, dead-looking colour it will I Snow s Winter and Jiarly Penzance should be never give satisfaction.— J. MniK. | sown on a warm border early in March. It should BROCCOLI FOR WINTER AND SPRING. Notwithstanding the fact that names have been largely added to the list of winter and spring Broccoli during the past quarter of a century, the gain to cultivators has not, with the exception of two or three varieties, been one of any great value — a circumstance much to be regretted, because the season for Broccoli is capable of being ex- tended at both ends. We want more hardy varieties than Veitch's Autumn Giant and the Walcheren in order that we may rely upon them from November to the middle of January. For the spring we also want more trustworthy sorts to fill up the gap between the spring Broccoli and early summer Cauliflower with a greater degree of certainty than now exist. We also require an improvement in the habit of some of the varieties ; they are much too long-legged and deficient in the number of leaves to protect the flower. In the case of many varieties, their vigour is out of all proportion to what is required to furnish heads fit for table, and the strong growers in questioa, with their thick fleshy stems, are the first to suffer in a severe winter. Those who know the variety called Miller's Dwarf, which has been so long in cultivation, will, I think, agree with me that it is a good type of the sort of Broccoli which we want. It grows very close to the ground, the stem rarely exceeding 9 inches in height, and it is furnished with an abundant leafage, which is capable of protecting the heart and stem from as much frost as these plants are ever likely to be subjected to when unprotected. If the work of selection is set about in a proper manner by those who have time and opportunities, I see no reason why a new race of Broccoli should not be intro- duced that would combine close sturdy growth with a sufficient number of leaves near the heart to render them proof against all but the severest winters. The varieties for winter use are limited. The only reliable sort is Snow's Winter White, which is as self-protecting as any kind we have, and the flower is beautifully white. It may be had sometimes in good condition in December, but the early part of January is its proper season. The Sandown Broccoli, which I have on trial for the first time this season, proves to be an inferior strain of Snow's Early. Penzance makes a capital succession to the last named, coming into use early in February. I look upon the Penzance as a very good selection of Adams' Early White ; in many many points it is very similar to it, but it comes into use two or three weeks earlier. It is, however, rather a delicate variety, and is one of the first to suffer in a hard winter. It may be well to remark that none of the winter Broccolies are fit for use except in mild weather ; all of them suffer when exposed to cold frosty weather. In making a Selection for spring use the choice of sorts is not at all restricted, at least as regards names but it is doubtful if more than half-a-dozen dis- tinct kinds could be had out of the multitude of supposed different varieties. Placing them in the order in which they come into use, I would select Knight's Protecting, Chappell's Cream, Dil- cok's Bridge, Frogmore Protecting, Leamington, and Veitch's Model ; as a late variety the last named is worthy of its name. It is quite as late as Cattell's Eclipse, but superior to that sort on account of its dwarf habit and the excellent colour of the flower. On more than one occasion this variety has kept up our supply until Cauli- flowers came in for use. Frogmore Protecting is equal to Model as regards colour and is some- what earlier, but more lanky in growth. It comes very near my idea of what a good Broccoli should be. For small gardens I should select Chappell's Cream, Frogmore Protecting, and Model. As regards Cultivation, two distinct sowings should be made. The winter varieties should, when prac- ticable, be raised in the open ground, as plants THE GARDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. be sown thinly all over the bed, and if the plants come up too thickly, they should be thinned out, so as to obtain short-legged plants, which cannot be had when they stand closely together in masses. Sowings for the spring supply should be made about the middle of April. We allow these to stand rather thicker in the seed-bed than the others, because early in June we draw out as many of the strongest as are required, and transplant them G inches apart in another piece of ground, where they remain until finally planted out. We like to get the plants in their permanent quarters by the middle of July, but as space is re- stricted, we are bound to wait until sufficient ground is vacant. I am satisfied, however, that the sooner they are planted after the middle of July, the better heads they produce, and the better able are they to stand against severe frost. I do not think it necessary when the ground is in fairly good heart to dig and manure for Uorecole, for it grows just as well in ground that is so firm as to require a crowbar to make a hole to receive the roots. Broccoli is a crop often crowded under the mistaken notion that just as good heads will be obtained under such circum- stances as if the plants had plenty of room. This, however, is not the case, fur the thicker they stand on the ground the weaker they become, and as a consequence the heads will be small. Moreover, the plants get drawn and are the first to suffer from frost. If a plantation of Broccoli is ex- amined after a hard winter, more live plants will be found in the outside rows and at the ends than io the middle ; this shows plainly that the more room they have in reason the hardier they are ; 2 feet apart each way is a very good distance at which to put them, but ,10 inches would be better. J. C. C. FRUIT BDDS AND TEMPERATURE. It is best, in gardening as in other things, to begin with first principles. In the forcing of fruits like the Peach, Cherry, Apricot, Plum, and many other subjects of the deciduous class which mature tlieir fruit or flowering buds the previous autumn, it is often said that, provided the wood and buds are properly ripened, there is little or no fear of a crop. No doubt perfect maturity of the wood is of the first importance, but it is by no means a guarantee of a crop or even a good " set " of fruit the following season if the plants are pushed too hard at the first by too much heat. I have good reasons for supposing that many a crop of Peaches, for example, is lost from no other cause than the premature pushing of the leaf-buds in advance of the fruit buds. I daresay many gar- deners have noticed that when the leaf-buds of a Peach tree expand before the flower-buds, the latter never open, or but very imperfectly, and soon fall off without setting. I have noticed this many times in the case of the Peach and other plants ; and although badly-ripened wood is always most inclined to push its leaf-buds prema- turely, still the best-ripened examples behave exactly in the same way if started in too high and moist a temperature. I was called upon two years ago to examine the Peach trees in a good garden where, although they grew and looked well and flowered too, they did not bear satisfactorily. When I went the trees— trained to perfection — were in full leaf, and had been disbudded once, but the flowers were only newly opened, and not a petal had fallen ; whereas at that stage the fruit should have been set and swelling. 1 never remember disbudding Peaches before the flowers dropped. That season there was a very poor crop again on the trees mentioned, bnt the following season (IS.S.S) there were fewer leaves on the trees before the fruit was set, and the crop was a very fine one, there being, I think, thirty dozen on one tree. In the case of the Peach, therefore, and other stone fruits, and certain other plants to be named, it may be set down as a rule that the flowers should always be well in advance of the leaves, and in order to secure this the trees must not be forced in a too high temperature at the be- ginning. It takes a higher temperature to bring the leaf-buds out than it does the fruit-buds, and whenever the former are observed to be pushing in front of tire latter it is a sure sign the temperature is too high fur the stage. After the leaves have grown beyond a certain point, no- thing can be done to mend matters, but if the leaf- buds are just pinched at their points in good time, it will cause the flowers to expand and the crop may be saved. What happens in the case of the Peach happens also in that of The common Azalea and other deciduous shrubs of that kind ; if forced too quickly in too much heat, they will push leaves instead or flowers. The greenhouse Azalea will behave in the same way, and no plant affords a better subject for ex- periment. If at this or any other season, a plant, liowever well developed its flower-buds may be, is placed in a stove heat, the leaf-buds at tlie base of the flower-buds will push quickly, and the flowers will never open, but in the end will turn brown and fall off. Many a well-set Azalea is lost from this cause. A suitable temperature cannot be always pro. vided foreverything.butin thecaseof Azaleas if the leaf shoots are pinclied clean out as fast as they grow and at an early stage, the flowers will ex- pand, and it will do the plant no harm. It is the same with bulbs. Hyacinths, if hard forced, will throw leaves only, leaving the flower-spike like a knob in the socket, while the leaves may be a foot long or more. In a perfect specimen they should be short and stiff, and just form a collar to the flower-spike. Curiously, too, The Pine-.\pple behaves just in the same manner, and I have known whole batches of finely ripened plants produce nothing but a tuft of leaves, that would have been the crown of the fruit had it had time to grow up. Acting on these principles, we reduced our Pine plants to the fewest number — when we grew Pines — and used to fruit almost every plant at the right time with the utmost constancy. I would undertake to make the fine.^t grown and ripened Pine-apple plant that was ever produced miss fruit by treatment at starting, and I would not subject the plant to a higher bottom heat than . CHiNENSis. — This is a species that in its single form has been in England nearly 200 years, and in its double form almost as long. It is the parent of the garden Mule Pink, and is by some supposed to be the parent of the very common double white Pink, certainly one of the best we have for hardiness, free growth, and scent. Bat it more probably comes from D. plumarius. D. Caryophyi^lus. — A British plant, but not a true native, being only found on some of our old Norman castles. It is abundant in many parts of Europe and is the parent of the grand family of Carnations. D. C/ESius.— Another British plant, and very interesting, as being only found 'on the mountain limestone rocks of Cheddar. It is a beautiful little plant, and very easily grown when once es- tablished. Its proper place is on an old wall, and there seeds may be sown, and they will probably soon produce good plants. Old rooted plants do not transplant well, but young plants from cut- tings grow rapidly, and if placed under the coping » Drawn in Mr. Ware's nui-serv, Tottenham, July 20, 1883. Jan. 12, 1884.] THE GAKDEN 23 of a wall, will grow downwards and form a beautiful OTDament to the wall, and will require no more care or attention for years. D. PLUJiABius. — Another plant that claims to be British, but it is only found in a few doubtful places, and is certainly an alien. The typical plant is of no great beauty, but it is interesting, as the parent of the Pinks as distinguished from the Carnations. D. ALPINUS.— One of the best of the very dwarf Pinks, and where it grows well a most effective plant for a rookwork; but it is capricious, and will not grow in every garden. D. glacialis and D neglectus are both very similar, and it would be well to grow all three and then see which does best. In some highly favoured gardens all three might be induced to grow. D. supehbus. — Native in many parts of Europe, and one of the best for garden purposes, but not the most brilliant. The petals are jagged, and it has always an untidy look, but the scent is delicious. It should be treated as a biennial, for it soon dies away, though I have known self- sown seedlings come up freely. D.HisPANicus.— I mention this because, though an old inhabitant of our garden, it is very little known, and it is at present scarce. I saw it for the first time last year at Heatherbank, and (ac- cording to the good custom at Heatherbank) carried away a plant. It is very distinct and of a brilliant colour. It is probably a near ally of the typical Sweet William. D. CINNAEAEINUS. — I name this aho for its variety and for its peculiar colour, which is unlike any other flower. I first saw it at Mr. Joad's at Wimbledon, and I believe he imported it direct from Greece. It is not so striking a flower as many of the others, but its peculiar cinnabar colour at once attracts a'- tention and makes it well worth growing. It is grown at Kew among Mr. Joad's other plants, and is being increased. It is a rare plant, and strictly confined to Eastern Europe. I reserve for the last the subject of the coloured plate, D. Atkinsoni. This beautiful variety is said by Mr. Sendall (in a recent number of The Gar- den) to have been raised by Mr. Atkinson, of Baoton, Norfolk, about forty years ago. Mr. Sen- dall considers it " one of the most beautiful of old-fashioned Pinks," and I quite agree with him. It seems to be a hybrid of the Chinese Pink, but it is very diflicult to increase, and I never saw seed on it. I may close these few notes on Dianthus by the two remarks that the ambitious name of Dian- thus (i.tf., Jove's Flower) was borrowed by Lin- nasus from a name given by Theophrastus to some other flower not now recognised, and that nearly all the species are easily increased both by seeds and cuttings. I should also like to add that the family is not much given to run into (so-called) monstrosities ; but there is one very curious form of Carnation which I have never seen and what I should much like to see if any of the readers of The Garden can send it. It is figured in the Botanical Maga.- mne, vol. xxxix., 1622, as the Wheat-eared Carna- tion, or Dianthus Caryophyllus imbricatus. Henry N. Ellacombe. 5119 — Pruning Bougaluvillea spec- fabilis. — " B." should cut away all the small growths, leaving only those that are strong and well ripened. Every shoot that the plant pro- duces will then flower; in fact, it will be in flower more or less from the middle of June till November. This Bougainvillea should, however, be grown as a rafter plant if one wants to see it in its fullest beauty, and thus treated the pruning would be slightly different. Two rods should be selected and cut in the same manner as one would a vine. The older the rods the better the flowers, which would be nearly as large again as those produced by a plant in a pot. One planted out here and thus pruned never fails to yield any quantity of flowers during the summer and autumn. — J. S. SEASONABLE WORK. FLOWER GARDEN. Herbaceous and other plants of that class show ofli best in wide slirubbery borders with low evergreens to back them up, but these latter ought not to be of a kind that root far about, or they rob the former, and so spoil their growth. Rhodo- dendrons, Berberis Darwini. B. stenophylla, and such like do not do this, and therefore should be largely made use of, as they are not only valuable on this account, but they are more desirable than most others on account of their moderate habit and the great beauty of their flowers, which they bear so profusely in spring. For variety of foliage, Aucubas, Euonymus, and Hollies are the most suitable, and to these may be added the variegated Dogwood and Acer fraxinifolium, and by way of contrast to these one or two of the dark-coloured Nut, which, with its rich coppery leaves, shows up well. To make sure of old borders being perfectly free from roots of trees and shrubs near, it is a good plan at this season to trench up the same, and when doing so to work well up around, cut- ting and removing all in the way. As most her- baceous plants are fond of rich soil, the oppor- tunity aiforded when trenching of giving a good dressing of manure should not be lost. The kind of manure most suitable for the purpose is that of a mild nature and which has been lying by for some time to get well decomposed. Such as this is agreeable to most plants, and may be used freely without fear of injuring the roots, but it is always best to keep it low down. FLORAL DECORATIONS. Where early Datch bulbs are cultivated in quan- tity for decorative purposes other than for the conservatory or standing in small vases in the house, it is an excellent plan to follow to some extent the system pursued by those who grow for the trade. Of course, appearances have to be studied more in a private establishment than in market producing places ; and therefore in lieu of rough and ready boxes in which to bring forward the bulbs to a flowering stage, seed pans of goodly size (square ones will occupy least room) should be chosen. In these the bulbs can be grown more closely than in pots, and when required for deco- ration can be taken, bulbs and all, for any uses other than vases where the bulb and rootlets would be unsightly. This system will be found to be preferable to any other for the making up of what might be termed rustic arrangements, and will afford a pleasing change where much decorative work has to be carried on. Too much sameness renders decorations of any kind mono- tonous and uninteresting, and therefore should be avoided. In table decorations especially it is well to add a fresh feature occasionally ; this can be done with ease. When all the costly epergnes and vases have been exhausted to give variety, a very pretty effect can be produced by choosing a medium-sized dish or a large dinner-plate on which to arrange our chosen material. For a large table select an oblong dish, such as would be wanted for a fair-sized joint. A slender-growing Palm, such as Cocos Weddelliana, Euterpe edulis, or Cham^- dorea glaucifolia, having a good healthy head of foliage in a 3-inch or 5-rnch pot, might be set in the centre, after which some sand and fresh green Moss or Selaginella should be at hand. Sand should be placed around the central plant at I once. Then choose, say, of the early Dutch bulbs 1 some scarlet and white varieties of the Due van Thol Tulips, a few bulbs of each ; two or three of the white Roman Hyacinth, bulbs, foliage, and spikes included (if the latter are not too much drawn up), and three or four small Chinese Primu- las flowering in 3-inch pots, from which they should be removed. Fill up between these with the Moss, so as to cover the sand, and dot in a seedling Fern or two where opportunity offers, but avoid crowding. Around the base use a few growths of small-leaved Ivy or other convenient material, to rest on the table cloth. Again, with the same Palm, a.-^ a change select some tiny plants of Pan- danus A'eitchi and graminifolius, or growths of either will do instead of plants, likewise a few tufts of the Cyperus alternifolius. Having ar- ranged these, let us procure a few spikes of Encharis amazonica that have say one perfect flower and another partially open ; about three of such will be sufficient with a few small leaves. To these add a few fpikes of lily of the Valley, Paper-white Narcissus, or Spiraja japonica, using for colour either the jellow or scarlet Due van Thol Tulip but sparingly. As a finish a few Fern fronds around the margin would add to the effect, and a few slender trailing growths of Ficus repens reaching beyond these would be a welcome addi- tion. A slight bedewing with a syringe to either of these arrangements would tend to keep the flowers and foliage all the fresher. Other forms of arrangement could be followed out, modified, of course, according to the supply and other cir- cumstances. INDOOR PLANTS. Stove plants.— There is nothing in the whole range of cultivated plants able individually to give such a lengthened succession of flowers as a few o£ the best stove species, such as Ixoras, Allamandas, and Dipladensis. If so managed as to enable them to continue in bloom for the greatest length of time throughout the year of which they are ca- pable, it might almost be said that they are con- tinuous flowerers, for it has been found that when all the conditions of cultivation are suited to their wants, that they, along with a good many other occupants of the stove, require only a short rest — very much less than they are often subjected to — but the length of time out of the twelve months that admits of their being submitted to enough heat to keep up this lengthened active growth de- pends upon two things, the houses in which they are cultivated being such as to admit a full amount of light, and, what is of equal consequence, their being kept close to the roof. This latter is a matter of importance not nearly so generally ac- cepted as it should be. We train Vines, Cucumbers, Melons, and other fruit-bearing plants as close to the roof as we can get them without absolute contact with the glass, with the admitted result of increasing their fertility ; it is just as necessary to keep plants that are intended to produce all the flowers we can get from them in a similar position so far as proximity to the roof of the house goes. The least experienced grower of plants under glass cannot fail to have noticed the strong healthy leaves and short-jointed wood that are formed with plants of all sorts kept with their heads close to the glass, as compared with that which results from others, identical in every way, but stood further from the roof in the same house. Such subjects as we have named and many others can only be had in flower for the full length of time by submitting them to a corresponding amount of heat, and where the houses are com- paratively dark through their construction, or the position they stand in, or where lofty, without the means of getting the plants well up to the roof, it will not do to use as much heat as will start them into active growth until the days are longer. Our own practice with houses as light as they could be made and adapted in their construc- tion to have the plants occupying them continu- ally within a very short distance of the roof, was to give all the rest that the majority of them received through the months of November, De- cember, and the first week or two in the new year, during which time there is usu- 24 THE GARDEN [Jan. 12, 1884, ally much less sun than after the turn of the days, and as soon as fairly into January the tem- perature used to be raised in the night to from 65° to 70° ; by this means we had no difficulty in having the same plants of Dipladenia, AUamanda, and Ixora in flower from the middle of April until the beginning of October, or longer if the heat requisite was given them ; under the same conditions, Clerodendron Baltouri and Thompsoni, Bougainvillea glabra, Gardenias, Taberna;mon- tana, Scutellaria Mocciniana, and others of like character gave several crops of bloom alternating with growth ; consequently where the stock is in strong robust health, and has been subjected to a rest of a couple of months, preparation should be made for starting them into growth. Any examples of such things as require cutting in should be so treated at once previous to giving them more heat. Stephanotis. — Where the flowers of this gene- ral favourite are wanted over as long a period as possible, several plants should be grown. There is the advantage of obtaining larger specimens when planted out, but this is over-balanced by the inability to retard or push them on at will in the way that can be done when they are moveable and grown in pots ; moreover, the plant only requires a limited root space, and very large examples can be grown in good sized pots. It never succeeds so well as when trained close to the glass under thereof ; we prefer thin string for thus supporting it rather than wire, as when it is necessary to re- move the plant to a lower temperature to give a rest, the string can easily be taken down and the shoots wound round the trellis or a few temporary sticks. Plants that have been so rested may at once be put into active heat, distributing the shoots under the roof tolerably close. With this plant whatever cutting back is required should take place after the blooming is over. Gloxinias. — There are few flowers so useful as these, for with judicious management in arranging for successions they can be had nearly all the year round ; but to have them in a condi- tion to be really serviceable for cut purposes, they must not be too much hurried, and whilst growth is going on they cannot be too near the glass. It is much better to start the corms at different times. If a few are at once potted and placed at the coolest end of the stove they will come in early ; do not use the soil too moist, and let them be put in heat immediately they are potted. We have seen the corms destroyed through two or three days' inattention by leaving them in a pot- ting shed after they have been placed in contact with the new moist soil. It is scarcely worth while now going in for named varieties of Gloxinia, as really splendid flowers both in form and colour can be had from seed. If a little is sown at this time, the plants will bloom nicely through the later months of the year after the older examples have become exhausted ; the seed should be sown thinly in a wide pan drained and filled with finely sifted soil, to which has been added a good deal of sand. Make the surface smooth and firm, so that the seeds may not get down too deep, cover- ing them very slightly with a little fine soil, press- ing gently down and putting a sheet of glass over the pan, by which means the material will retain moisture, so as to minimise the amount of water necessary to be applied, a matter that it is always needful to be careful about with small seeds that require heat to enable them to vegetate. TuBEKOUS-BOOTED Gesneeas. — These are a beautiful class of plants somewhat neglected. The old bright scarlet G. Cooperi may be taken as an example, and is still a very fine kind ; there are numbers of hybrids equally deserving of places. There is an advantage in starting them early, as by so doing they may be induced to flower twice before autumn. All they require is such treatment as is needed by Gloxinias ; they will thrive in either loam or peat. The time of flowering of the winter blooming Gesneras, such as G. exoniensis and G. zebrina, will depend upon the amount of heat they have been subjected to ; where well managed they will now be very useful, their long spikes of bright flowers standing out conspicuously in the stove. They like a fair amount of heat up to the blooming period, but when in flower they will stand an intermediate temperature, not giving them too much water. When the flowers fade the plants mast still be kept warm, applying less water until the well matured foliage dies down slowly. Epiphyllum tkuncathm. — So accommodat- ing are Epiphyllums in their time of flowering, that with a sufficient stock and due attention to their management, they may be had in bloom through a considerable portion of the winter. To secure this it is only necessary to vary the time of growth and rest in the plants. Those that have been forced into flower early should now, when the blooming is over, be placed where they will at once have warmth enough to push them on, so that they may have time for a long rest and thorough ripening of the growth, which is essen- tial to their being forced early. The naturally limited root room these plants will do with is often the cause of their being kept so long in small pots that their strength is impaired, and not unfrequently through the same cause the drainage becomes defective, in which condition the plants cannot possibly thrive. The usual manner of growing them is grafted on the Pereskia stock in the form of standards, short or tall. In this way they admit of being arranged when in flower with other plants. They form nice little bushy heads when grown on their own roots, in which style they soon get large enough to be effective, as good sized pieces will root ; if these are now put in a brisk heat they will soon get established ; they should be placed singly in small well-drained pots, in loam to which a large amount of sand and some finely broken crocks have been added. They ought only to have as much water given to the soil as will keep it from being so dry as to cause the cuttings to shrivel until roots are formed, when more may be applied. The larger growing kinds of the Ackermanni and speciosum section are not grown now so much as in time past, or as their merits for decorative purposes entitle them to. Provided they have a fair amount of heat with full exposure to all the light and sun possible • whilst their growth is being made, with a thorough reacting out-of-doors in the summer, and they are kept moderately dry and not too cold in winter, they will bloom profusely in spring and summer, their gorgeous flowers giving an effect of which few other things are capable. DiON^A muscipula. — This remarkable plant, which often grows well for a time and then dwindles away, may easily be kept for an un- limited period in a thriving state if it is fairly treated. The usual cause of its getting into an unhealthy state is through keeping it too hot, which induces over much growth for a time, by which it gets exhausted. The plant will grow in an ordinary greenhouse temperature, but likes a little more warmth than this; at the same time it cannot bear to be dry at the roots, and a dry atmosphere is equally unsuited to it. Now when it is at rest it should be kept at about 4.5° in the night, always maintaining the soil quite moist, but not confining the plant under a bell-glass or hand-light, unless the atmosphere of the house in which it is kept is unusually dry. Euphorbia jacquini.iEflora. — When well managed this is one of the best of all winter flowering plants, either grown in pots or planted out. One of its peculiarities is that it makes little roots and is impatient of being over-watered. It is usually short lived when planted out, for al- though so treated it grows fast and gets much stronger than it ever does when its roots are con- fined, yet it generally dies off suddenly ; this often occurs after a considerable quantity of the shoots bearing flowers have been cut. The same is not un- usual with this Euphorbia where grown in pots ; this points to the necessity of using more than ordinary caution in giving water at a time when the reduction of the shoots and leaves renders the plants less able to take it. When this useful sub- ject is turned out, the bed should always be much smaller than is given to the generality of other things. Where it is grown in pots, if the plants are strong, they will give a second crop of flowers from shoots produced below where the first bloom was forthcoming. Manure water in small quanti- ties will help the second flowering. In the same way all other winter-blooming stock that produce a second growth of flowers will be benefited, as the roots in most cases will have impoverished the soil during the formation of the first crop of bloom. Imantophyllums. — These plants are so man- ageable that they will bloom at almost any time of the year when wanted by subjecting them, after they have had a good rest, to heat. If good large examples are at hand, one or two may be put in moderate warmth, where they will quickly push up their flower-stems. There is a great differ- ence in the brightness of colour and in the size of the different forms of these plants, some of which are so superior to the ordinary variety as to make it comparatively not worth growing. Imantophyllums are naturally much slower to in- crease than plants that produce cuttings in the ordinary way, and where only a limited stock of a good form exists, it is desirable that it should be increased. With this view the plants ought to be kept in heat and the crowns divided as they get strong enough. They like plenty of root room, and as fast as the soil gets full of roots they should be moved on. Kalosanthes.— Whether large specimens in big pots or small stock, such as that grown from cuttings put in in spring, Kalosanthes should be accommodated with the lightest position the greenhouse affords. Give no more water than necessary to preserve them in health, but, though it is advisable to keep them drier at the roots during the dormant season than most things re- quire, this must not be carried too far, foY if the leaves shrivel at all they will perish, leaving the lower part of the stems in a bare, unsightly state. It seems singular that Kalosanthes, which flower in the advanced summer at a time when there is not much variety, should now he so little grown ; and yet there is not a conservatory or greenhouse but would be brighter for their presence. They are amongst the easiest of all plants to propagate and grow, and are certain bloomers when fairly treated. They are the most useful grown in small pots, as when used in this way in sufficient quantities they produce a better effect in a mixed assemblage of plants than when larger, but limited in number. ORCHIDS. East India house.— The weather at present is all that can be desired for starting to surface- dress or re-pot any plants that may require it. Moderately dull mild weather is the best to do such work in, as under these circumstances the plants do not feel any root disturbance so much as if the weather was very cold and much artificial heat was required to bring the temperature upto the necessary heat. Care ought to be taken with the plants while they are being repotted that they do not suffer any unnecessary check. In places where the houses have been erected specially for Orchids, the potting shed would be somewhere in proximity to the plants, and so as they would not be required to be taken into the open air. In many places there is no such convenient arrange- ment, and all plants have to be taken into the open air to be conveyed to the potting shed ; rather than do this we would erect a temporary potting shed in the house, and do all to the plants that they required without subjecting them to a change of temperature. It may have been stated before, but it cannot be repeated too often, that it is in what may be termed the minor details that suc- cess is to be achieved or failures made. For instance, many persons either do not know how to place the drainage in a pot, or they think it does not matter how it is done, and they are careless aliout it. The drainage and pots should be clean, the potsherds to be put in carefully in a way that the water may run off freely. The Sphagnum should be carefully picked over to remove all dirt and weeds ; finally wash Jan. 12, 1884.] THE GARDEN 25 and lay it out to dry. Orchids resent any injury to their roots, and as a rule all the best of them are clinging firmly to the sides of the pots. It is better, therefore, to carefully break the pot with a ham- mer rather than to turn the plant out in the usual way to the serious injury of its roots. Many of the broken bits of potsherd to which the roots are clinging may be allowed to remain and be potted along with the usual compost. Owing to the mild weather it has not been difficult to keep up the required temperature of 65°. Cattleta house. — The remarks just made referring to repotting apply equally well to this department and the cool house section. Nearly all the strong-growing Cattleyas succeed best grown in pots, with good fibrous peat and Sphagnum in equal proportions, some broken pot- sherds and charcoal being added to keep the com- post open and for the roots to lay hold of. The nature of nearly all Orchids is to lay hold with their roots to every firm substance with which they come in contact, and with a grasp so firm, that the roots cannot be removed from the sub- stance to which they adhere without breaking or lacerating them seriously. Cattleya roots will either be amongst the drainage or else clinging firmly to the sides of the pots ; few indeed of them will be amongst the compost, and yet give them nothing but drainage and the sides of the pots to grow in they would require more attention as re- gards watering, and they would not succeed so well. We are always very careful when repotting them to save all the roots ; and any young roots that are being produced from the base of the last formed pseudo-bulbs are not buried in the com- post. We have seen peat and Sphagnum piled round these to their hurt. If they are let alone they will lay hold of the material they like best ; some will run along the surface and others will push into the potting material ; and when the circumstances are favourable the roots will also push over the sides of the pots, Cattleyas like to be near the glass ; many of the shy flower- ing species will nat flower if placed on the stage, but if the pots containing the plants are plactd in baskets and these are suspended near the roof glass, where the air can freely circulate under, over, and around them, they will flower freely. The smaller growing species may be placed in teak baskets or potted into small shallow pans to be suspended from the roof. Some of them will suc- ceed well on blocks for a time, but after two or three seasons' growth, the plants that have nothing but the bare blocks to support them soon show signs of exhaustion. When these signs are evident, place the block in a pot with the base of the pseudO'bulbs well raised above the rims, and then place round them the usual potting material recommended for Cattleyas. Cool house. — A look through some of the cool Orchid houses in the neighbourhood of Lon- don at this season of the year shows very conclu- sively what a very valuable adjunct to a garden the cool Orchid house is, and how easily the plants are to cultivate successfully. It will be a surprise to many, as it is to us, to read of the fastidiousness of cool Orchids as they are grown on the Continent. We are sure with the instruc- tions given from week to week in the columns of The Garden anyone with an ordinary knowledge of plants may grow cool Orchids well. The principal thing to do is to build a house for them in a cool place. If the whole truth was known, it would be found that in most places where cool Orchids did not succeed well the result would be due to too much heat in summer. It is difficult, when the houses are exposed to the full blaze of the sun, to keep down the temperature sufficiently during hot weather, unless the shading is too thick, and in that case the plants are debilitated as much as they would be by too much heat. As far as we know the wants of Orchids, we believe they like as much heat as can be afforded them ; and if the shading is left on to do more than protect from the direct rays of the sun they are injured. It was recently stated that the attention required by the occupants of this house was of a very simple kind at present, but what attention they do require ought not to be omitted. A look through the house the first thing in the morning to ascer- tain the lowest night temperature is necessary ; during the present mild weather if it does not fall below 50°, it will be all the better for the plants; a very low temperature causes many of the deli- cate blooms to become damp-spotted. It is easy to see whether much or iittle moisture will be required by evaporation, and the person in charge ought to act accordingly. Too many, it is feared, throw water about every day, summer and winter, with no thought as to the necessities of the case. Air ought to be on all night, and it may not be necessary to admit any more during the day. It is also necessary to look through the houses between 8 p.m. and 10 p m. to regulate the heating apparatus, and see that no garden pests are enjoying themselves at the expense of the plants. FRUIT. Figs.— Within the last few years the increasing demand for early Figs, without which a first- class dessert can hardly be considered complete, has led to the more general cultivation of the best kinds, and it is gratifying to find in the majority of places fairly furnished with glass one or more houses devoted to the culture of Brown Turkey, Negro Largo, White Marseilles, Osborn's Prolific, and others either in pots or planted out in internal borders. Where their growth has not been attemp- ted this is a favourable time for making a start ; and as good fruiting trees established in pots can be purchased at any of the leading nurseries, and every gentleman's park produces Oak or Beech leaves, the best of all materials for giving bottom- heat, there are few difficulties in the way of a new beginner having ripe fruit by the end of May. For early forcing trees in pots are recommended, but if confined at the roots they do equally well in inside borders composed of good loam and old lime rubble resting upon liberal drainage. Light span- roofed houses or pits adapted to the growth of early Grapes or Melons answer best, as Figs, although they may be carried through the early stages in a swamp, require plenty of light, heat, and air from the time of flowering until they are ready for gathering. In many places the earliest trees started in November will be pushing forward the terminal buds, and the young Figs will be swelling fast. When this stage is reached the night temperature may range from 56° to 60°, and that by day from 65° to 75°, with a little air when it can be given without creating a draught. Syringe well backwards and forwards to prevent the appearance of red spider ; keep the roots liberally supplied with warm diluted liquid, and make additions to the beds of fermenting material when the heat shows signs of declining to 60°. An abundance of Figs for the London season being most valuable, a second house may be started. Former directions having been followed, all de- tailed operations will have been completed, and, if not already done, the borders may be well watered with warm water at a temperature of 90°, mulched with good rotten manure, and watered again to insure the complete moistening of the soil quite down to the drainage. This done, com- mence syringing twice a day, and allow the tem- perature to range from 50° at night to 60° by day ; prune or rather thin the shoots in late houses, wash well to remove the remains of spider and scale, tie into the trellis, and ventilate freely until the time arrives for starting the trees into growth. Early houses. — If the Vines have been bent down to a horizontal position, to insnre an even break, get them tied up to the wires as soon as the most backward buds are on the move. Syringe with warm water when the temperature begins to rise. Give air at 68°, close early, and syringe again if the afternoon is fine. If inside borders are well drained, a second supply of water at a temperature of 80° will help the young growths rapidly forward, and old Vines will benefit by the addition of a little clear liquid from the tank, or a dash of guano in the water, while vigorous young canes will produce more compact " shows " and set their frnit better if stimulants are withheld. Pay timely attention to disbudding, or rather the removal of weak breaks from which bunches of Grapes cannot be expected, and when the best shows become prominent raise the night temperature to 58° or 60° on mild nights. If forcing has been commenced with fermenting material on the borders, make frequent additions, turn the whole mass, mixing the old with the new, and aim at a temperature of 70° to 75° on the surface of the soil. Where external borders have been well covered with a good body of dry warm Oak leaves, and protected ftom wet, they will retain their warmth much longer than when fermenting manure, which is objectionable, is used. Hakdt fruit. — Take advantage of frosty mornings, should they occur, for wheeling out manure to Raspberries, Strawberries, and all other kinds of bush fruit. It is not necessary for the manure to be thoroughly de- cayed, as a long period will intervene before the plants actually require stimulating food, but once placed on the borders the roots will be protected from frost, and digging being objectionable the work will be finished for the season. If the plant- ing of fruit trees has not been completed, and the ground continues wet and adhesive, allow them to remain laid in until the buds begin to swell and there is a fair prospect of immediate root action ; meantime prepaie good compost, consisting of fresh loam and burnt earth. Keep it protected from heavy rains. Stake and mulch as soon as the trees are planted. By this time the pruning of nearly all the wall trees will have been brought to a close, and advantage having been taken of the mild open weather nailing will he well advanced. Peaches and Apricots should be left till the last, but all shreds and nails should be removed for the twofold purpose of exposing the young wood to the action of the weather and cleansing the walls. If the old spurs on Apricots have become long and naked now or a little later will be found the best time for cutting back to the main shoots. Healthy old trees in favourable localities may be entirely denuded of spurs with the certainty that one or two years will refurnish them with young flowering wood in the best possible position for the protection of the blossoms and the swelling of the fruit. Orchard house. — In commencing the culture of orchard house trees it would be well to pur- chase fruiting trees in pots. We get ours in No- vember, and as soon as they come to hand they are potted. We plunge them in Cocoa-nut fibre, where they remain until January, which is a good time to prune them. The question is, whether the form of tree is to be bush or pyramid. We prefer a few of each. In some positions the bush form works in best and in others the pyramid, and to fill up spaces in the centre border of large span- roofed houses standards come in well. A tree that has made one year's growt'n from the bud has a straight centre stem and usually a number of lateral branches. In order to form a pyramid about a third must be cut off the main stem and the side growths should be cut back, those near the top close to the stem, gradually leaving the lower ones longer until the lowest side growth is reached, which should be the longest, so that the tree will be of a pyramidal formjto start with. A bush tree is formed by cutting the main stem down to within a foot of the bud, and cutting back any side growths to i inches or 6 inches from the stem. It is easy enough to form standards by cutting the side or lateral growths off close to the stem, leaving the latter the entire length. The trees ought not to be placed in a forcing tempera- ture, but be allowed to grow on slowly with plenty of air ; under those circumstances they will break freely, but they grow most freely from the highest parts of the trees; and to prevent these growths from taking more than their due share of nutriment their points should be pinched off at the fifth or sixth leaf ; this allows the lower growths to run out more strongly, but they also ought to be stopped in the same way. The second growths will not be so strong as the first, 'J 6 THE GARDEN [J AX. 12, IHR but they will be strong enough to 'produce fruit- ful wood — the object in view. Vines. — If late black Grapes are still hanging on the Vines lose no time in getting them cut and bottled, as nothing can be gained by allowing them to remain, and it is now well known that late hanging is quite as detrimental to the Vines as early forcing. Choose a mild dry day forcuttipg, fever the wood just above the pruning bud, leave it the full length beyond the bunch, insert in bottles of clean soft water, and ventilate the Grape room for a few days with gentle fire-heat to dry up moisture which may have escaped dur- ing the process of bottling. If the Grape room is properly constructed, and not liable to be affected by sudden fluctuations of external temperature, a mean of 45° or a few degress lower in severe wea- ther will be quite sufficient for all the black kinds, while Muscats will retain their colour for a greater length of time in a temperature of 50°. When the Grapes are cut, and pruning, cleansing, and top- dressing finished, throw the houses open to the full extent of the ventilators, unless the weather is very severe. Examine internal borders, end it the surface roots have become very dry give a mode- rate supply of water before the top dressing is placed over them. Remove the shutters from external borders, top-dress with good loam and crushed bones, and protect from frost with fresh stable litter. Cut back young canes which have not hitherto borne a crop of fruit, and allow the points to droop to the level of the pipes, or tie them to the wires in a horizontal position near the front ventilators, where they can have a free cir- culation of air. Also cut down pot Vines intended for growing into fruiting canes. Dress the cuts with styptic, and keep them in a dry cool house until the time arrives for starting. Select thoroughly ripened wood for eyes, insert in small pots firmly filled with sandy soil, and keep them in a cool pit for three weeks before plunging them in bottom-heat. If any of the houses require internal painting, immediately after the Vines are cleansed and tied down is the best time to get in the workmen. Add a little turpentine to the paint, and wash the walls with a mixture of quicklime and sulphur. Early houses from which ripe Grapes are expected in May will soon be fit for the general disbudding, a process which must be regulated by the vigour of the Vines and the position of the spurs. It widely placed, two shoots may be left on each spur, the terminal shoot to give the bunch, and one nearest home to give the pruning bud next year, and as this will be the weaker of the two it may be allowed to supply the greater part of the lateral foliage for covering the trellis. Gradually increase the temperature to 58° to G0° on mild nights when the bunches become prominent, but avoid set figures when the weather is unfavour- able. Syringe regularly with water a few degrees higher than the mean of the house. Force by day when clear and bright, and husband fire-heat by paying regular attention to the fermenting ridges. KITCHEN GARDEN. Horse Radish is generally grown in an out-of- the-way corner where sunlight seldom reaches it. We are at present busily engaged taking up one half of our entire crop ; we select the large roots and lay them in for the use of the house, whilst the smaller roots, about the thickness of one's finger, we cut into lengths of 12 inches. We well clean the outside, rubbing off every particle of fibre, and these we plant with a crowbar 1 foot apart all ways. We are thus in due time rewarded with fine straight sticks of this valuable root. Our earliest sowings of Peas are just breaking? through the ground ; we have put 2 inches of fine coal ashes over all, thus keeping them safe from frost and slugs, and they form in a great mea'ure a preven- tive to the attacks of mice. We prefer Laxton's Earliest of All I'ea to all others; the seed is round and hard. We always find wrinkled Peas tender, and if the weather is excessively wet, they crack. P,road lieans we serve exactly in the same manner. Our best vegetable now in use is Snow's Broccoli, which we lift, laying the heads north- wards and covering with Rracken for protection. All kinds of Broccoli planted late, without any digging on the crowbar principle, are fine sturdj' plants, close to the ground, and will stand any amount of frost with a slight covering of Fern without any lifting. The varieties which we grow are Watt's Excelsior, Barr's Criterion, Portsmouth fijr mid-season, and for latest of all Burghley Champion and Cattell's Late White. We have again a magnificent quarter of Black-seeded Brown Cos Lettuces, which we cover with Fern, and cut daily to supply the house. This is, per- haps, the most remunerative crop in the kit- chen garden. Endive we lift and tie and pUce it on the Mushroom house floor, where it bleaches beautifully white, and, with the assistance of a few scarlet Tropasolum flowers, makes a very fine addition to the dinner table. All kinds of greens have been most plentiful, but the wet weather has played great havoc with both autumn Cabbages and Savoys. Chou de Burghley, how- ever, stands out triumphantly — not a single head cracked or discoloured, thus showing that after the proper cultivation of this Cabbage is known it will become very serviceable for autumn and spring use. The present time is almost a dead letter as regards the planting of any kind of vegetables outof doors, giving us kitchen gardeners an opportunity of getting all vacant ground roughly turned up to be in readiness for spring crops. Keep a sharp watch on all plantations of young Cabbage and Lettuce, filling up the blanks as they occur. A dusting of soot over all i.-, we find, a great protection ; it makes the leaves distasteful to most kitchen garden enemies. In the forcing department we have been gather- ing French Beans from 7-inch pots in abund- ance, the variety being Osborn's. We plant five Beans in a 3-inch pot, and when they are 6 inches high we pot them into their fruiting pots. When Beans are set, we treat them to a little very weak manure water, which they seem to enjoy immensely. Asparagus we lift entire from the beds and place it in one of our old Pine stoves, putting 3 inches or 4 inches of fine soil on the crowns. We keep the pit at about G0°, and we get Asparagus in plenty. In the same pit we have green Tarragon and Mint. The roots of these two herbs we plant yearly and get good strong crowns, so that we find no difficulty in always having a constant supply. Seakale we also lift, plunging the roots in large pots and placing them in the Mushroom house. This system is preferable to the old one of forcing outside ; but due precaution must be taken to plant fresh quarters yearly. Fruit Garden. EARLY MELONS IN POTS. A GOOD Melon is generally acceptable at any time, from the commencement of the London season onwards, and Melons are especially valu- able throughout May and June. At least, this is my experience ; but perhaps it is not incumbent on the majority of cultivators to have them ripe till the end of June or early in July. The fol- lowing remarks are, however, for the benefit of those who may feel disposed to commence the culture of these choice fruits rather earlier than usual. Not a little depends upon the choice of suitable varieties for the purpose, some ripening much quicker and with much less sunshine and heat than others which are perhaps no better in quality. The old Victory of Bath we used to grow for the earliest crops. This, in my estimation, is superior to Gilbert's presumably improved form and also Dell's Hybrid. All of these are of easy culture, being very prolific and free setting, but unfortunately all are liable to crack, and if we give more air to check the crack- ing tendency we also check the swelling off of choicer successional fruit. Eastnor Castle, if obtained true, much resembles the foregoing as far as growth, free bearing and free setting are concerned ; but, being rather more vigorous, it perfects a heavier crop of good-sized and, as a rule, well-netted fruit, which are less liable to crack, besides being of a better appearance and quality. This variety is, however, by no means perfect, and I only grow it for early crops. The best scarlet companion to it is Blenheim Orange, an excellent Melon for all crops. Even of this there are different forms ; but one which we were fortunate enough to obtain from the gardens in which the variety originated ripens more quickly than any other sort we have, and the fruits are large and handsomely netted ; the flesh, too, is thick and unsurpassed in flavour by any Melon grown. It a third variety is required— and I ad- vise no one to rely exclusively upon one or two sorts— I would recommend High Cross Hybrid, this with me being another free-setting, richly- flavoured, green-fle.-hed Melon. The greatest dif- ficulty in the case of those with imperfect means is experienced in Pkeparing the young plants for early forcing. When raised, as they oftentimes are, on hot - water pipes, or over evaporat- ing troughs, and then transferred to warm shelves near the glass, the plants are liable to become much drawn and weakly, or, worse still, infested by some kind of insect pest common in general plant stoves. Weakly plants may be induced to gain the required vigour, but any en which either mealy bug, red spider, black aphis, and thrips have effected a lodgment had bettc r be thrown away at once, as it is almost impossible to clean them. If not thrown away, it not unfre- quently happens that by the time the infested plants have set their crops they will be completely ruined by one or more of the pests just enume- rated, and much valuable time and space are wasted. The best place in which to raise the plants is in a light forcing house and on a raised hotbed formed of either tanners' bark or this and leaves mixed, or leaves and stable manure which have been previously shaken up together and allowed to ferment for about eighteen days or longer, it heat is generated slowly, being turned once in that time. A bottom-heat, obtained by means of either of these materials, ranging from 80° to 90°, is of great value for propagating and seed raising generally. To sow the seeds thickly in 5-inch or laiger-sizedpots, thus necessi- tating potting off, and perhaps a loss of plants, or at the least a considerable check, is a mistake by no means uncommon. We prefer to sow Melon seeds singly in 3-inch pots filled with moitt loamy soil. Plunged in moist bottom-heat no water is given, as if it is the seeds are liable to rot. I find the newer the seeds the sooner they germinate, and in spite of the old-fashioned prejudice in favour of old seeds, I give the preference to the stronger plants, resulting from new seeds. Slugs are very destructive among young Melon plants, and must be closely looked after. The seedlings, being raised early in January and even February, are certain to become more or less drawn, and will require to be lightly supported from the outset, and also to be well raised up to the light, but not subjected to a low temperature. Before becoming at all root-bound a shift should be given, placing them carefully in Cinch pots and good loamy soil previously warmed. They ought from the first to be kept growing in a temperature ranging not lower than from 60° to 65° by night to from 70° to 75° by day. Early Melons need not necessarily be grown in pots ; on the contrary, they may be planted in small raised heaps of soil, and which plan shall receive the preference ought to depend entirely upon circumstances. Supposing plung- ing material is unavailable, the Bottom-heat being entirely provided by two or more hot-water pipes, then I should say, grow the Melons in heaps of soil on a slate staging. Again, if the pipes are high, being, in fact, for top-heating purposes, I would employ pots set on the pipes, taking care that they always received abundance of water. In such a position I lave had them do well, but durirg bright weather they were frequently watered heavily three times a dii)-. They, however, paid for it, and would have been failures without the closest possible attention. Where there is a pit along the front of a forcing house, with perhaps one or two return pipes by Jan. 1-2, 1884.] THE GARDEN •zi way of bottom-heat, and heating material abun- dant, I would recommend pots for the earliest crops, as there is no doubt that pots induce an early disposition to fruit. While the plants are gaining streogth in G-inch pots, one of these pits may be filled with heating material— the best perhaps being a mixture of good Oak or Beech leaves and farmyard manure prepared as above recom- mended— and in this when found not to exceed aO^ be plunged the fruiting pots. Various sizes are adopted by different growers, but we prefer those fciiher 15 inches or 18 inches in diameter and arrange them about 12 inches apart. They are then loosely filled with good turfy loam to which has been added a few shovelsful of slaked lime, and some clay if this latter is absent in the loam. The soil will become thoroughly warmed in time to receive the plants before they are root- bound. Wlien planting Melons at any time, the soil cannot well be too firmly rammed, as the firmer and close it is the more fibres do the roots furm, the result being more sturdy and fruitful top growth. Manure in the soil also encourages when the top-growth overshadows the under- growth. When the wires are reached the main growths should still be trained, stop- ping not being resorted to till about .3 feet in length has been added, while the laterals should be carefully laid in on each side, a few of them only being rubbed out where at all crowded Most of the laterals will show fruit, a joint or two beyond which the points may be pinched out. This is done before it is necessary to use the knife, the aim being to have the trellis thinly covered with strong, healthy leaves, as little pruning being resorted to as possible. The crop of Melons in pots especially must be set simultaneously, and fertilising, as a rule, should not be attempted till three or four blooms are open on a plant at the same time. Then, after a little air has been given and the pollen has dried, the female or fruit bearing flowers should be set with the pollen of the male or barren blooms. Syringing should be discontinued till sufficient fruit has set, and the at- mosphere also must be kept drier. A strong plant in an 18-inch pot ought to perfect four good fruit. a too luxuriant top growth. A particularly strong bottom heat during the earlier stages of the plant's growth is also objectionable, and too often do Melons get it than instead of when more required, viz., when swelling off their crops. In anticipation of renewing the bottom heat as often as required, and also to prevent undue sinking, it is advisable to place the fruiting pots on either temporary brick pedestals or other large pots, and this admits of much of the old material about them being replaced by some that is fresh and unexhausted. The new material ought not, from fear of over-heating, to be packed very firmly about the pots ; but when the heat declines it should be rammed more closely, thus tending to check rapid radiation. No one thinks of Training the plants otherwise than over a wired or trellised roof, the wires or trellis being usually about 12 inches from the glass. Strong stakes should be placed behind the plants, and fixed to the lowest wire of the trellis Up these the plants should be led, all side shoots which they form being kept closely rubbed out. The leaves will act as stem-swellers, and if the laterals are left till it is necessary to cut them out, that almost invites an attack of canker, especially averaging 2 lbs. in weight, but we are frequently satisfied with three rather larger fruit. It this number is not set at the first attempt, pinch ofl: the fruit or two that have commenced swelling ofE, and fertilise the blooms on the upper laterals and those sub-laterals resulting from stopping the lower strong laterals. All superfluous growths should be kept rubbed out or pinched off. This tends to concentrate the whole strength of the plants on the fruit, and it will generally be a waste of space to attempt to secure a second crop from one set of plants. With regard to Wateking and other details, I should strongly advise beginners to attend well to the watering of pot plants, as they should never be dry at the roots, not even when the fruits have reached the ripening stage, as this greatly impairs their quality. From the time the fruits are set till near ripening liquid manure should be given almost daily, and both this and the water given at the roots and used for syringing ought always to be of the same temperature as the house. Some of the artificial manures are suitable, in- cluding Peruvian guano, but these must be used cautiously and no stronger than the respective vendors advise them to be used. We prefer the liquid manureobtainedfromafarmyard. Wedilute it according to its apparent strength, and prefer frequent moderate supplies to occasional heavy doses. The houses in which early Melons are growing require but little ventilation, and if the temperature reaches IW, it does the plants good, provided the soil in the pots is moist and plenty of water is distributed about the house We do not syringe the plants heavily overhead in the mornings, but when the house is closed early on a clear day they are freely syringed. A top dress- ing of loam and horse manure in equal quantities is given directly the fruiting laterals are forming, and subsequently a thin dressing of short nearly fresh manure encourages top root action. Great care is to be taken not to break any of the fully grown leaves, or the footstalks may decay and affect the stems. If a brisk growing temperature rather above the figures given above is maintained, canker, the greatest evil we have to contend with, seldom occurs. Directly there are signs of this, keep the stems as dry as possible, and frequently coat the affected parts with either common cement or powdered unslaked lime. This serves to dry up the exuding sap, and in this manner we have pre- served affected plants till the crops have ripened. Green and black aphis and thrips must be kept down by fumigating, mealy bug by catching and crushing, and red spider by liberal treatment, and the maintenance of a moist growing atmo- sphere. In small establishments three or four plants in batches are preferable to a greater number at one time with the contingency of an undesirable glut of ripe fruits. The second or successional sowing may be made about three weeks subsequent to the first. A drier atmo- sphere best suits ripening Melons, but need not be resorted to when there are later batches in the same house. W. I. M. PEAR OLIVIER DE SERRES. This excellent Pear has, with me, just attained its maturity. I grew it on an east wall, and the tree is still a small one, though it always bears a good crop. Leroy, in his " Pomological Dic- tionary,*' thus describes the tree ; Wood, strong; branches numerous, large, growing upwards, wide, but not long ; eyes, large, egg-shaped ; leaves oval, of medium size, nearly flat, deeply indented. Cul- ture.— Its vigour is perfect, whether grown on its own or a Quince stock. It grows well as a pyra- mid. Description of fruit. — Medium size, spheroid, flattened at the extremities, but with an embossed surface ; peduncle short, thick in the middle, in- serted in a cavity more or less deep with ribbed sides ; eye large, regular, rather deep ; skin thin, of an olive-yellow, covered with dots and spots of a fawn colour, but reddish on the side next the sun : flesh white, melting, and perfumed ; juice of medium quantity, sweet, but with a pleasant acid, and strongly perfumed. Maturity during Feb- ruary and lasting till the end of March. Quality, the first. History. — It was in 1861, not in 1859, as it has been erroneously stated, that the stock of this variety was produced from Pippins of the Fortunce d'Angers or FortunC'e Superieure, as it is sometimes called. It exhibited its first fruit at Rouen, in the orchard of M. Boisbunel, the pro- ducer. It was submitted to the examination of the Horticultural Society of Paris, February, 1862. The Pear Olivier de Serres has been justly de- scribed as a very good late fruit ; it received a medal in 1867. M. Baisbunel has acted wisely in bestowing on his Pear the name of the illustrons man who has been styled '-the Father of Agricul- ture," Olivier de Serres, who published hi."! * Theatre d'Agriculture et Slesnage des Champs " in Paris in 1600, during the glorious reign of Henry IV., just nine years before that mighty monarch fell beneath the knife of Ravaillac. M. Hardouin Perefixe, Bishop of Rodez, whose his- tory of his prince is of great interest, is so taken up with narrating the stirring events of the reign, the battles and the victories, that he overlooks so small a matter as the publication of a scientific book. Neither do I notice any allusion to it in the delightful memoirs of the Due de Sully, which con- tain so graphic and minute an account of the state of France in his day. The people of Ardeche, the 28 THE GAEDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. country of his birth, have however, recently erected a statue to him at Villeneuve de Berg. Though Olivier de Serres is passed over, Perefixe mentions that Henry caused a number of white Mulberry trees to be planted in diiferent parts of France, especially in Tonraine, in order that the culture of the silkworm might be carried on, and that a home manufacture of silk might supersede the necessity of importing this costly article from other countries. The " Fruit Manual " gives the same account of our Pear as that I have just quoted from Leroy. He fixes its maturity at the same time. I am at a loss to account for this, as with me it is in fall perfection now. Last year it was ripe at the end of December. Situations and soil vary considerably. I shall be glad if any of your readers can throw any light on this matter. W. N. Prices of Apples. — " Veronica " states, in the last volume of The Garden (p. 563), " that really good home-grown Apples are very difficult to procure, and were it not for American kinds they would be too high priced for all but the well- to-do." This statement I read with astonishment, considering that for the past few weeks I have been sending to the London market very fine samples of Blenheims, for which I receive nett about 3s. a bushel. Whose fault is the high price complained of, the producer's or the retailer's ? — G. Frankum, Woolhampion, Reading. 5128.— Carolina Stra'wberry.— The Straw- berry which Mr. Blackstone saw under this name in Susses was probably the Bicton Pine, an ex- ceedingly good Strawberry not so much grown as it ought to be. Probably its colour is against it, or rather its want of colour, which is as described (see p. 10). Carolina superba is a very good Strawberry, pale red in colour, with white flesh. It is a hardy, free-bearing kind, which does well in some gardens ; but it is one with which we could not do much in our light sandy soil. Caro- lina I do not know at all ; probably it is the same as Carolina superba.— J. Douglas. 5122.— Apple trees and Stra-wberries. The relative value of espaliers or bushes in bor- ders has not yet been decided. Some prefer the one, some the other. Espaliers, when well trained, produce the best fruit, and the trees do not take up so much room as bushes. The latter are more natural looking, but I find that in the rich, light soil of some gardens they have a tendency to pro- duce wood at the expense of fruit, and no amount of summer pinching or stopping can quite over- come this tendency. Why not give both systems a trial 1 The best six Strawberries are Black Prince, Keen's Seedling, President, Sir J. Paxton, British Queen, and Frogmore Late Pine.— J. Douglas. Flavour of fruits —" Veronica," in last year's Garden (p. S63), revives a subject which I remember was one of the earliest I used to hear discussed, viz., the comparative excellence of fruit from young and old trees. A very general opinion used to prevail that old trees produced the finest flavoured fruit, and some still entertain that opinion. It is one of those problems that have never been settled to everybody's satisfaction, but I believe I express the opinion of z good many fruit growers when I say that I do not think old trees do produce the best flavoured fruit. I will not speak so confidently of Apples or Pears, but my impression is that fruit of old trees is both smaller and more woody than that of young trees. As to Grapes, however, I feel on safer ground, for, like most growers, my opportunities of comparing on the spot the fruit of young and old Vines have been many, and I have always found the fruit from young Vines as good as that from the oldest, if not better, and superior in size and abundance of flesh. The most seeds exist in Grapes from old Vines, and seeds are at all times better absent than present in a Grape. I was struck with this fact not long since in tasting some beautifully-coloured Grapes from old Vines. The berries were not very large and the seeds did not improve them to the palate. Flavour I believe to be almost wholly dependent on the state of the plant's health and on the character of the season. In respect of flavour, fruit somewhat resembles the flesh of animals, and we know that old chickens or old bullocks do not produce meat that is either tender or well flavoured. The in- feriority of the Hamburgh Grapes mentioned in The Garden, p. 5G3, might be due to other causes than the growth of the Vines— gross feeding for example, and which is probable, as the berries are described as being like those of the Gros Colmar in size — unusual dimensions for the Hamburgh to attain. Perhaps also one crop was riper than the other when used. — S. W. Gas tar on Vines.— Every gardener fami- liar with mealy bug in plant houses or vineries knows that this insect hybernates or harbours in winter not only on the Vines, bat also in the wood- work, masonry, and border, from which it comes in summer. I know growers who could testify to mealy bug swarming on Vine roots deep in the border not unlike the Phylloxera, to which it is allied, and Jlr. Clayton has admitted that it har- bours in walls and woodwork by the very energetic measures which he took to clear these from it. That being so, will he or anyone else tell us how the bug was cleared so effectually from these quarters by painting the Vines only with a weak solution of gas tar ? I know Mr. Clayton is a more thanusually observant gardener, and he will, I am sure, see the force of this and explain it if he can. Bug is far more easily removed from bare Vines than from the surrounding structure. —J. S. W. 5181.— Planting fruiting "Vines. — The best way would be to plant a fruiting cane, and one intended not to fruit alternately ; each al- ternate Vine could then be fruited heavily. Cut down those canes intended not to fruit, and train up two canes from each. The temporary Vines will bear twice as much fruit as it would be safe to allow them to carry if they were intended to be permanent. They may be cut out as soon as the fruit is gathered, and the permanent Vines with two rods each will quite fill the house, and would bear a good crop without fear of being injured thereby. — J. Douglas. As " S. C." appears to be anxious to secure a crop of Grapes the first season after planting, I should advise him to procure a number of strong fruiting canes, but on no account to rely on them for a permanency. They should be treated as supernumeraries, to be fruited to their full extent during one or two seasons and then be cut clean away. To be certain of a crop the same year in which they are planted, " S. C." will have to plant strong canes just referred to, with their balls of soil intact, and even then very careful watering will be necessary or they will fail. The roots of plants grown in pots are necessarily much coiled, and unless the balls of soil are soaked in water, the roots carefully uncoiled, and spread evenly throughout the new soil, they do not readily become established. Wherever a permanent rod is required, or say one to each rafter, these being about 4 feet apart, I should ad- vise *' S. C." to plant a cane, the stronger super- numeraries being worked in between them — the former to have their roots loosened and treated as just described, and the latter planted with their balls moist and intact, the soil about them being made very firm. As there may be a difli- culty in maintaining these large balls in a moist state they should be planted rather deeply, and this admits of a basin being formed above with the soil, a practice which greatly facilitates watering, as well as encourages the formation of strong new tap roots. If the border is inside, the permanent Vines may be quite small, and should be cut down to near the ground ; but if planted outside they ought to be much stronger, and be shortened to the nearest point to where the young shoots will get sufficient light ; the lower outside buds should not be rubbed off, but stopped at their fifth or sixth joints, these laterals being encouraged owing to their being good stem- swellers. If the permanent Vines make good pro- gress they should each carry two or three bunches the year after they are planted, and will be in full bearing by the time when the supernumeraries are exhausted. — ViTis. " S. C." is right as regards the gain to be de- rived from planting some fruiting Vines at once in his new vinery instead of waiting. For his informa- tion I may state my own practice. I first reckon how many permanent Vines will be required, using those of ordiaary planting size, and then put between each a good, well-ripened fruiter, turning these out of the pots and planting them without any disturbance of the roots, or spreading them out, seeing that the soil is made quite solid round the balls, so that water will reach the roots instead of passing through the surrounding soil, which it naturally will do if left loose ; to still further provide against this the balls should be sunk 1 inch or 2 inches lower than the surface of the border. Fair-sized, well-ripened Vines thus ma- naged will carry seven or eight pounds of Grapes each the coming summer, and finish them well without taking so much out of them as to stop their bearing as much or more the second year, after which they must come out to make way for the permanent Vines. — T. B. 5121.— Fruiting 'Vine canes— The plan your correspondent thinks of adopting is not a good one. If fruiting canes were planted as he pro- poses, it would not be desirable to take more than two or three bunches from each. Supposing they were planted 3 feet apart, a dozen Vines would pro- duce from thirty to thirty-six bunches, and the growth would probably be unsatisfactory, render- ing careful cropping nest year necessary. The system I would advise is this : plant a fruiting and a planting cane alternately, with the intention of destroying the fruiting canes as soon as they have produced one crop of fruit. In that case each of the Vines would produce six bunches, which would give thirty-sis the first year. In the meantime all that the planting canes will have done will be the production of two strong canes from each, but they will have made plenty of roots, which will be ready to aid in the production of a good crop of fruit next year, say from six to eight bunches on each vine. They would, if allowed, produce a dozen bunches each, that is six on each rod, but that would be rather over doing it. — J. D. G. 5113.— Liquid manure to fruit trees in winter. — The advisability, or non-advisability of giving liquid manure to fruit trees in winter, either in or out-of-doors, depends on several things. If the trees are young and strong, as from what " C. M." (p. 582) states they presumably are, it would be a mistake to give manure ; or if in a wet locality, or where the soil is at all of a retentive character, its application would also do harm instead of good. Where, however, the re- verse of these conditions exist it would do good if used in moderate quantities, and not too strong. But manure in a liquid form is never so effectual as when the plants to which it is applied, of what- ever kind they may be, are in active growth, tops and roots alike. It is then that liquid feeding is advantageous. I have tried a good many esperi- ments with liquid manure in winter on crops of all kinds and on vacant ground such as that to be planted with vegetables the following year. Its subsequent effects depend a good deal not alone on the character of the surface soil, but also on that of the subsoil. On heavy land, if applied in larg^ quantities, it induces a sour, cold condition not suitable for early planting, Where the under stratum is porous, unless where the top soil is deep, much of the strength of the manure gets washed down by the rains beyond the reach of the roots of the crops to be planted. The best way of disposing of this sort of liquid in winter is to throw it on a good body of any sort of dry ma- terial that may esist about a place, such as ashes, sawdust, loam, or decayed vegetable matter of any kind. Where a suflicient body of any of these is available for the retention of the liquid, it can be used with advantage in the many ways in which solid manure is applied. — T. Baines. If the trees are healthy and vigorous, it would be throwing manure away to supply them with it. It is only exhausted soils and trees to Jan. 12, 1884. THE GAEDEN 29 which liquid manure may be applied with the greatest advantage. Trees while bearing heav}' crops are also benefited by liquid manure. — Cambrian. Vine bordera. — The excellent article on " Outside rer^ifs inside Vine borders '' which ap- peared in your last volume (p. 58.5) should have provoked some discussion on this important sub- ject. It has always appeared to me most un- natural that Vines should be placed with their tops in a temperature of, say, from 60° to 70°, and their roots in an outside border with a tempera- ture of from 40° to 45°, as is too often the case when early Vines are being forced. Why should a heat-loving subject like the Vine be planted in an outside border at all any more than a Stephanotis, Allamanda, or any other stove climber ? No one would dream of planting these plants in a cold outside border, and yet they are kept in vigorous health for almost any number of years by good cultivation, and without the borders being at any time aerated by exposure to the atmosphere. Outside borders are often warmed by the use of fermenting material, but heat derived from that source is so liable to fluctuate, that I think it better dispensed with altogether. Inside borders of course require a much greater supply of water than those outside, and in the growing season can scarcely have too much. I, like " W. W. H.," never could see the advantage of borders half inside and half out, as the roots of Vines thus placed can seldom be in the same condition as regards moisture. — G. T. B. preserving moisture, is also an inducement to root action. — VlTIS. Indoor Garden. TILLANDSIAS. Apples for cider making-.— As regards the large amount of cider which " N. " gets from 500 bushels of Apples, as recorded in last year's Garden (p. 566), viz., "25 hogsheads of 100 gallons each," I feel there must be some mistake, which he may glad to correct. This is a good cider district, on "a strong, deep loam, resting on the red sandstone," but we can only make a hogshead of 5i gallons from 21 bushels of Apples, weighing -40 lbs. per bushel ; so that 500 busbels would make less than 24 hogsheads of 54 gallons each. "N.'s" 600 bushels multiplied by 40 lbs. would give 20,000 lbs., and from these he gets 25 hogsheads of 100 gallons each, which would give at 10 lbs. per gallon the following : 100 x 10 lbs. = 1000 lbs. X 25 hogsheads = 25,000, or 5000 lbs. more in cider than his 600 bushels of Apples, weighed at 40 lbs. per bushel, making no allowance whatever for pulp and waste. Moreover, he says : " The grass under the trees will pay the rent ! " Orchards are usually valued here at about £o per acre, and the value of the grass is in proportion to the thickness of the trees —usually not worth more than 15?. or 20s. per acre. Cheap indeed must 1 j acres of orchard be where the grass will pay the rent and I'aO worth of cider be made also. The best cider in this neighbourhood has been felling from the press at 20s. per hogshead, and some even less. — John Garland, Killerton, Hxcter. 5108.— Pot Vines,—" A i'oung Gardener " has given his Vines in pots at least one year longer to grow under such conditions than is generally allowed them. He ought to have stated the size of the pots, how long they have been in them, the length of the rods, and if they are to be thrown away after being fruited. Supposing they are much root-bound and in pots 11 inches or 12 inches in diameter, I should say by all means give them a liberal shift, or better still plant the moist balls intact in a temporary bed of good soil, either enclosed by loose bricks or partially de- cayed turves. Here, if they are frequently watered and given plenty of liquid manure, they ought not only to perfect on an average 12 lbs. or say 8 bunches of good Grapes, but become suffi- ciently strong and established to be fruited a second time. If kept in pots they must have great quantities of water and liquid manure, two waterings per day being often required. In either case if neglected and allowed to suffer for a few hours irreparable mischief is soon done. Where the Vines are planted out such very close attention is not necessary, and the new soil, in addition to These Bromeliaceous plants are mostly epiphytal in habit. Some of them have exceedingly hand- some flowers, as in the case of the charming T. Lindeni, the exquisite blue colour of which is equalled by very few tender subjects, whilst others possess little beauty in their flowers, but have handsomely marked leaves, Uke T. zebrina. They are all of dwarf habit, having more or less of the peculiar vase-like arrangement of the leaves present in the Bromeliaceous plants generally. They are handsome subjects for the decoration of warm plant structures, such as Orchid houses, where their form of growth and appearance con- trast with the uniformity of the principal occu- pants. But coming, as most of them do, from parts of the world where there is always, ornearly always, present a considerable amount of atmo- spheric moisture, with a good deal of warmth, they will not bear being kept in a cool, dry place ; nor should they be allowed to get dry at the roots. They are increased by seeds and suckers, the latter the method that will most commend itself to the generality of growers. Plants of these TiUandsias that have flowered usually after- wards throw up from the base Suckers more or less in number. These should be allowed to acquire strength before taking them off. If severed from the parent plant whilst very small much time will be lost, as they will thrive a deal faster attached to the plant on which they have been formed than when separated, if this is done before they have gained enough strength. It is necessary that the material in which they are to be grown should be of a loose, open description, such as the roots in their native habitats revel in— fibrous matter like that fur- nished by good Orchid peat, mixed with Sphag- num, broken potsherds, or charcoal, to which has been added a little sand. Suckers in the state described should be taken off in spring, or suffi- ciently early in summer to admit of their getting established before autumn. Strip off a few of the small leaves at the base, and put them in similarly to the way in which Fine suckers are treated in open material such as described, kept moderately moist and shaded, in a temperature of 70°. They will soon root, but they must not be confined in the manner that ordinary cuttings are struck under propagating glasses, or they will most likely rot. Pots that will just hold the suckers will be large enough for a time until they have made a good quantity of roots. This is the more so, as less pot room suflices for these TiUandsias than most things ; but when the pots get full of roots move them into others larger proportionate to the strength of the plants and the size that the parti- cular species attains, using rough fibrous soil like that already named. Little further is required than a routine course of treatment, keeping them quite moist at the roots in the growing season, and never dry, even in winter, with such shade and an- as required for most stove plants. The spring and summer temperature should be from 60° to 70° at night, with 10° or 15° higher by day, and air in the daytime. In the winter, when at rest, a night temperature of 60° will suflice, giving a few degrees more warmth by day. The plants last for many years provided they are fairly treated, being not liable to die off in the way that some things do. There is great difference in the size the various species attain ; consequently the root space, when the plants are fully grown, will need to be regulated in this mat- ter in accordance with the requirements of each particular kind, but as they increase by the pro- duction of suckers it is better with most of the species to separate them, as they look the best when confined to single crowns. Species. — The undermentioned are all very handsome, viz.: T. Lindeni. — This is a charming plant of small growth with olive-green, recurved leaves, producing beautiful blue flowers issuing from an erect scape -with bright rosy bracts, the combination of which colours has a charming effect. It is a native of Ecuador. T. musaica. — The leaves of this plant are a foot long, they are banded across with broad, irregular patches of dark green and greyish yellow alternating. It comes from the United States of Colombia, and is a very handsome plant. T. tessellata. — Another very fine species with bold leaves, glaucous green mottled with yellowish green on the upper sur- face, and veined with rose-purple on the under side. T. splendens. — A handsome compact grow- ing species that has green leaves deeply banded with blackish brown. The flowers, which are white, are produced from a stout erect flattened stem, clothed with pinkish red bracts. T. Balbisiana. — A medium-growing species with green leaves, coated with whitish powder. Flowers violet- purple, bracts dark rose. West Indies. T. (Wal- lisi) circinalis. — Leaves heavily covered with the silvery powder-like coating peculiar to Tilland-. sias. Flowers violet. Uruguay. T. (argentea)* Gardner!. — A pretty species ; leaves densely silvered; flowers small and much crowded ; colour purple. Trinidad. T. Roezli. — A strong growing kind, leaves green, with dark markings ; flowers rose colour. Peru. T. zebrina. — A low spreading species, the leaves of which cling to the surface, and are banded across with brown, ground colour green. A native of South America. There are several other species in cultivation, but those de- scribed are the m ost distinct and handsome ; all the others will succeed under the treatment detailed. Insects. — The hard nature of the leaves renders these plants little liable to the attacks of insects. Scale, both the brown and the white species, will live upon them, but is easily removed by sponging, T. Baines. WINTER PELARGONIUMS. Rev. W. Atkinson is a good variety The Rev. W. Atkinson is a good variety for winter flowering, but there are many others also well adapted for the purpose. We have a house 50 feet long nearly filled with zonals, and a most cheer- ful sight it has presented during the last few months. The plants have been in fine bloom all through the season along with the Chrysanthe- mums, and now the}' are as fresh and blooming as well as ever they did, there being plenty of trusses in all stages of development. Our house is a span-roofed one, and has been specially built to produce flowering Pelargoniums in winter. There is a flow and return 1-inch pipe fixed to the roof about a foot from the base of the rafters. As the weather has been very mild, we have used these roof pipes only, but in case they should be required pipes are a Iso fixed in the usual way. The cuttings are put in in April and May, and during summer the plants do as well out of doors in an exposed place as anywhere else ; they are potted in 6-inch and 7-inch pots in August or September ; they begin to flower in October, and continue to do so until the houses are gay with Hyacinths and other spring flowers, when they are not so much wanted. We have grown during the last few years a great many varieties, but have made selections again and again, reducing the double varieties very much indeed. They do not seem to open their flowers well with us ; there are a few exceptions, notably the one named The Lord Mayor, a deep rose- coloured variety, which can be highly recom- mended for its free blooming propensity and also for its neat dwarf habit. Nymphe is put down as the best double white ; it is also of dwarf habit. Raspail is the best double scarlet, although we also grow Wonderful, another dwarf form of this colour ; its numerous small trusses of flowers are very useful when cut. Aglaia has a decided purple tint, tinged a little with crimson, and has been selected as the best in its class. Ville de Nancy forms a sturdy plant, producing fine trusses of paper-white flowers tinged with rosy red at the base. The above seems to be a very limited col- lection ; but what is the use of growing scores of varieties if they do not produce good blooms and 30 THE GARDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. in quantity ? We grew quite Ihirty-six varieties this winter. As to single kinds, their name is legion ; but I find on referring to my note-book that they have been reduced to 17 varieties. These have been selected from our own collection, but some new varieties which I saw at Swanley are likely to in- duce us to make a new arrangement next year. Our best white is a variety with the absurd name of " I've got it," but I fancy when we grow Snowball with it, the first named will not be wanted. Olive Carr and Constance are our best rose- coloured varieties, but probably Constance, fine as it is, will be di.^placed. Mrs. Sturt is another good rose-coloured variety, dwarf in habit, and a free bloomer. Evening Star and Fanny Thorpe are of the salmon tints, and I know nothing that can be placed before them either new or old. It requires a very great stretch of imagination to describe any of the zonals as being yellow. Donald Beaton's Indian yellow seems to have gone out of cultivation ; ^those that represent that colour at present are Jealously, Guinea, and lastly New Guinea. We grow a few plants of each, as the bright orange- red colour has a charming effect amongst the others. Others of which we do not grow large quantities are Dr. Orton, Eva, Rosa Conheur, Sliss Hamilton, Edith, Ouida, Leona Dare, W. B. Miller, and Commander-in-Chief. I would add that if the best results are to be obtained, the plants must not be crowded ; on the contrary, they must have a circulation of air round them almost constantly. The night temperature of the house is not more than about 50^, and the dryish atmosphere al- ways makes it a pleasant promenade. Such a bouse is well adapted for flowering Bouvardias, Tree Carnations, and other plants. When a house of this kind is being built and the hot-water pipes fixed, the extra expense of roof-heating is scarcely worth thinking about. J. DOUGLAS. PHILODEXDRONS. One of the great attractions of the jungle and forest vegetation of Tropical South America is that presented by the Philodendrons, which cling round the trunks of the giants of the forest, and stretch their arms from one tree to another in great festoons. Here one finds a little dark velvety-leaved species covering the tree on which it grows with a coat of heart-shaped leaves and Ivy-like stems and roots ; there a great strong rope-stemmed specifs climbing to the top of the tallest trees, and then stretching to the next and the next until its connection with the ground is left a long way behind. Tree lovers they are, as the name implies, for they are all great climbers, never developing their finest characters unless they have their stems and roots clinging to a moist tree trunk. We talk of a tree as a wonder if its age Is above 600 years, but these Philodendrons never die of old age ; they go on prolonging themselves, and the shootthat is now stretching across from one Brazil-nut tree to the other is most likely the end of a plant started thousands of years ago. Philo- dendrons are great water-drinkers ; an atmosphere continually at saturation point is their great de- sideratum ; with that and a tropical heat, they will thrive even on bare flagstones ; soon finding the side of the house, they would commence to climb by means of their sucker-like roots, and in no great length of time reach the top of the highest stove. This accommodating character ren- ders Philodendronsof the greatest value for cover- ing walls, filling dark corners, or draping pillars in moist tropical houses. Amongst their foliage there is great variety both in size and shape, rang- ing from the small heart-shaped leaf of P. cuspida- tum to the large shield-like foliage of P.grandifo- lium. Some of the Philodendrons are handsomely variegated. Such is the species here figured, viz., P. gloriosum. The leaves of this plant are about a foot in diameter of a deep green colour, the central and lateral veins being picked out with crystallised white. P. Carderi is another hand- some-leaved species, the satiny green ground con- trasting well with the pale green, almost white markings along the principal veins. The leaves are heart-shaped, 8 inches wide, and the petiole is covered with short hairs. The underside of the leaf is deep purple. This is, perhaps, the most beautiful and most convenient sized of the Philo- dendrons for small houses. P. melanochrysum, with green, gold shaded leaves, and P. melano- lanum, with dark velvety leaves, are two other handsome species which along with the above are worthy of a place where ornamental-leaved plants are admired. P. Lindeni differs very little from P. Carderi. The pretty little P. cuspidatum is ad- mirably adapted for growing upon a raised mound or a small Fern stem. In a moist house these plants will cling to the woodwork or a board and thrive admirably. Some of the flowers of the larger species of Philodendron are very strongly scented, some agreeably, others disagreeably. The flowers. so close as to cause them to damp off. Unless, however, the plants from which the cuttings are taken have been properly managed, so as to furnish them in the right condition, the chances are that not one in twenty will root, no matter how treated. The shoots of Bouvardias that have been allowed to go on through the autumn and up to the pre- sent time in the ordinary way, making more or less growth, are not in a condition to furnish cut- tings that can be dealt with satisfactorily. To yield the right sort of cuttings, the plants should be dried off in autumn, so as to cause the leaves to fall off, like those of old Fuchsias that are permitted to get quite dry ; after that the shoots should be shortened back in a way to remove all the soft wood, putting the plants in heat, and giving them a good soaking, so as to moisten the soil properly. Thus treated, they will break out di- Philodendrons at homt. too, of several of them are very handsome ; one of these is P. grandifolium, the flowers of which are waxy white and as large as those of an Arum Lily, the base bulging out and marked with blood red. The spadix is yellow and thick. Philoden- drons may be easily propagated, every eye pro- ducing a plant if placed in sand or Cocoa-nut fibre in a propagating frame. Until strong enough to climb, any open sandy soil will suit them, peat and loam being, perhaps, the best, and they must have, as has been stated, moisture and heat and subdued light. In a dry house they are always miserable. Kew is the headquarters of the genus in this country. There about one hundred species may be seen growing in the Aroid house (No 1). B. 5110.— Striking Bouvardias.— Cuttings of Bouvardias will strike freely in a close case, with or without bottom heat, provided the temperature is kept at about 75°, but they must not be kept rectly at almost every eye, and when the young shoots are about 2 inches long if taken off at the bottom they will root as freely as those of Fuch- sias and very nearly as quickly. — T. B. A greenhouse without plants in pots. — One is so accustomed, when visiting different gardens, to find greenhouse plants growing in pots, that it is an agreeable change when one has an opportunity of seeing them treated otherwise — that is, planted out in open beds ; when treated in that way they are so much stronger, better de- veloped, and far more healthy than when confined to pots. In a garden near Kelso the planting-out system is well carried out. The house is only a small one, being 11 feet by 9 feet. It is span- roofed, the sides being 6 feet high, and glass to the bottom. No artificial heat is applied, except during very severe frost. The first plant to at- tract attention was Hydrangea Otaksa, a bush 6 feet high and 'ik feet through, bearing nine heads (each 15 inches" in diameter) of pure wliite bios- Jan. 12. 1884.] THE GARDEN 31 soms ! Lipageria rosea was simply charming, its racemes of ro!-y wax-like flowers being very abun- dant. Fuchsia corallina trained up one of the pillars was in full beauty. Another plant which I was pleased to see in full bloom was I'leroma sarmentosa, the blossoms of which are deep bril- liant Gentian-blue in colour. Of Daphne indica rubra, there was a very fiiie bush, bat not in flower. It was, however, easy to imagine what it would be when thickly furnished with its lovely sweet- scented blossoms. On one side of the house a Laurustinus was in full flower, and very well it looked, its growth being totally different from what it is when grown out of doors. These were all planted on the ground level, and amongst them were to be seen various species of Ferns, rare and somewhat tender bulbs, and other plants which served to give to the bed of earth an in- teresting appearance.— E. Potter. Societies. ROYAL HOKTICULTURAL. January 8. Beyond a bright display of Cyclamens and Chinese Primulas, there were not many interest- ing exhibits at this meeting. Among the few new or rare plants shown the following were awarded first-class certificates : — Cattleya Peecivaliana. — This new Cattleya was represented by a superb variety sent by Sir. Percival, from Birkdale, Southpcrt, after whom it was named. The flowers were about two-thirds the size of those of an ordinary C. Trianie ; the fepals and petals were of a deep purplish lilac, while the labellum— the most beautiful part of the flower— was of an intensely deep maroon-crimson with blotches of bright orange in the throat and beautifully frilled with pink. This is the finest variety of Percival's Cattleya that has yet flowered in this country. L.ELIA ancbps Peecivaliana.— This charm- ing vaiiety was also exhibited by Mr. Percival, who, we believe, is the sole possessor of it. It is distinct from all the other forms of L. anceps, and has no rival as regards beauty. The flowers, which are about the size of those of the ordinary form, have the sepals and petals almost pure white ; the lip is white with the lowermost lobe and side-wings tipped with a deep rich amethyst. The plant shown bore several spikes and as many as five and six blooms on each spike. Cypbipedium Leeanum. — A new hybrid Lady's Slipper, and one of the most remarkable that has yet been raised ; it is a cross between C. insigne Maulei and the new C. Spicerianum — parents, the features of which could be distinctly seen in the hybrid. The flower is larger than that of ordinary Spicerianum ; the broad dorsal sepal is nearly wholly white, lined and dotted with purple ; the pouch is much darker than that of either parent, but the lateral sepals are much the same as in the typical Spicerianum; the foliage is inter- mediate, and the habit of growth promises to be dwarf and sturdy. Exhibited by Messrs. Veitch, in whose nursery at Chelsea it has been raised by Mr. Seden. • Dieffeneachia Jenmani.— Avery handsome new variety and a real acquisition, notwithstand- ing the many Dieffenbachias already in cultiva- tion. The ample leaves are broadly lance-shaped, of a deep green, variegated with transverse lines of white, which so contrast with the deep green as to make the foliage very handsome. Exhibited by Messrs. Veitch. Cyclamen Crimson Beauty. — A superb variety as regardsthecolour— an extremely bright crimson- carmine, a shade different from that of any of the numerous varieties now in existence. It was shown by the well-known Cyclamen raiser, Mr. H. Little, Hillingdon Place, Uxbridge. Among the Orchids shown were some from Messrs. Sander & Co , St. Albans, including the new Saccolabium giganteum illustre, which ap- j.ears to differ from the type in the larger flowers and brighter colouring. Messrs. Sander also showed a new Odontoglossum named Hrubyanum. It is in the way of (J. cirrhosum, the flowers being pure white, with the exception of the yellow crest on the labellum. From Mr. Southgate's garden, Selborne, Htreatham, Mr. Salter sent two plants of Cattleya Percivaliana, both representing dif- ferent varieties, both beautiful. Mr. Salter also showed two plants of Sophronitis grandifloia, both admirably grown iu shallow pans— evidently the best mode of cultivating this little Orchid gem. One of the plants bore fifteen flowers, each .S inches across — a pretty sight. The beautiful Odontoglossum crispum guttatum was shown by Mr. Philbrick's gardener (Mr. Ileims), Oldfield, Bickley, and a fine example of O. roseum, bearing several spikes of rosy flowers, was shown by Mr. Chamberlain, gardener to Mr. G. F. Wilson, Heatherbank, Weybridge, for which he was awarded a cultural commendation. An attractive display of Cyclamei;s, Primulas, and Orchids came from Mr. Little's garden. The Cyclamens were the admiration of everyone, inas- much as they were exceptionally fine specimens, large plants with huge tufts of healthy foliage and perfect sheaves of blooms, yet only grown in 6-inch and 8-inch pots. Some half a hundred such plants were shown, and among the varieties were those named Amethyst, a beautiful plum-purple ; Mrs. Little, a very dark crimson, probably the deepest that has ever been raised. It was evident from this fine display that Mr. Little is sustaining his reputation as one of the most successful Cycla- men growers. The Primulas were scarcely less remarkable for good culture, and they included some choice new sorts, such as Jlagenta Gem and Carmine Gem, both of which are probably unsur- passed in their respective colours. Mr. Little supplemented the Cyclamens and Fiimulaa by a choice group of Orchids, the culture of which family he has recently commenced. Among these were some fine forms of Odontoglossums, the white Lycaste Skinneri, and an unusually dark crimson one appropriately named atro-rubens. A splendid variety of Odontoglossum Eoezli named superbum was noteworthy ; also flowers of Phalre- nopsis Stuartiana nobilis and a panful of Cypri- pedium Spicerianum remarkable for the exception- ally dwarf flower-stems, not more than 6 inches high, and broad healthy foliage. A silver Bank- sian medal was awarded to Mr. Little. Mr. B. S. Williams was awarded a bronze Banksian medal for an extensive group consisting of some hundreds of Cyclamens and Primulas. The former were as fine as Mr. Williams usually shows at these winter meetings, the plants being remarkable for the sturdy growth, abundance of flowers, and diversity and ricbnes, of the tints, varying from snow-whites to the deepest crimsons. The Primulas consisted of such beau- tiful sorts as Chiswick Red, magnifica alba, one of the finest of all while sorts, and fimbriata rubra, one of the deepest rose-purples. Two new white Azaleas were shown by Mr. Connell, Busby Down, Tooting, named Snowfiake and Bridal Wreath, both of which promise to be useful varie- ties for forcing into flower early. Flowers of a new Salvia named Sheppardi were exhibited by W. Sheppard, Woolverstone Park, Ipswich. It bears a great resemblance to S. splendens, but is said to be quite distinct in growth and later flowering. For some exceptionally fine examples of Poin- settia pulcherrima, Mr. Blann, gardener to Sir W. E. Welby Gregory, Bart., M.P., Dunton Manor, Grantham, was voted a cultural commendation. The specimens certainly were uncommonly fine, con- sisting of two stout stems, each bearing three widely-spreading branches, terminated by a broad cluster of bracts as large as those usually seen on single stems. Mr. Mann's exhibit attracted con- siderable attention, and it would be interesting to learn how he managed to produce such growth. Some good specimens of the so-called double Poin- settia (plenissima) were shown by Lord Caere's gardener, Mr. Merritt, from The Hoo, Welwyn. Cultural commendations were also accorded to Mr. Herbst, Richmond, for some well-grown and flowered examples of forced Lily of the Valley ; and to Mr. Brockbank, Brockhurst, Didsbury, for a very fine specimen of Christmas Rose named Helleborusnigerangustifolius(Brockhurstvariety) The plant was nearly a yard in diameter, and bore a huge cluster of pure white blossoms. From Swanley, Messrs. Canneil brought some of their finest specimens of Primula?, about 2 feet in diameter, in G-inch pots, with broad vigorous foli- age and with a profusion of huge flower-spikes Such specimens as these are not often seen even at South Kensington, and they admirably served to show to what perfection the Primula may be grown. The plants were two jears old and repre- sented such lovely new sorts as The Queen, Swan- ley Red, Swanley Purple, Swanley White, and the old Fern-leaved White, still one of the best. Be- sides these there was a new sort named Mam- moth, with bright rosy purple flowers some 2.} inches across, and beautifully fringed. Among a large collection of Primulas from Chiswick was one named Chiswick Purple, an uncommonly fine sort with large flowers of bright colour. It will pro- bably eclipse even the superb varieties that have, been raised of late years by Mr. Barron, such as the Chiswick Red and others. Among the most noteworthy exhibits was a display of Princess of Teck Chrysanthemum from Mr. H. Bennett, Shepperton, consisting of four dozen superb blooms as fine as any we saw in November. These blooms were from plants which had been grown in the open ground, lifted in October, and placed under glass. Such a beautiful collection of Chrysan- themum blooms at this season was an uncommon feature, and formed the centre of attraction. The flowers of this sort are white, evenly incurved, and with a delicate flush of rosy purple on the outer florets. Some new seedling C'rotonswere exhibited by Mr. Ross, gardener to Mr. Eyre, Welford Park, Newbury. About half-a-duzen plants were shown, most of which were stated to be crosses between C. Weismanni and C Johannis. Two or three of them we considered distinct and very handsome and quite worth naming. All were remarkable for the brightnpss of the golden variegation, and some for the elegance of growth. One n^med C. Eyrei was particularly noteworthy for graceful- ness of growth and bright variegation. The new Panax Victoria was shown well by Mr. James, Castle Nursery, Lower Norwood. It is an extremely elegant variegated plant and valuable for room decoration. Fruit. — There was but little work for the fruit and vegetable committee, there being only a few seedling Apples, and none of these remarkable. Soientlflo Committee.— Sir J. D. Hooker in the chair. Thefollowingsubjectswerediscussed: ScU'rofia in Po:atiH'S, — A communication was read from Mr. A. Stephen Wilson, e.xpresfing his views of the necessity of further examination of these bodies, which he proposes doing next season. He questioned the probability of Mr. Murray's experiments with nitric acid being de- cisive in showing that they are solely oxalate of lime. Mr. Murray remarked that the acidu;ed was so excessively diluted, that it could not have destroyed either protoplasm or starch if either had been present. Impregnation of Potatoes throvgh the surface lij sjiores. — A letter from Mr. Plowright was read re- stating the fact that spores readily penetrate the epidermis of fresh tubers underground, but only through the eyes after drying. Mr. Murray ob- served that the question was not so much whether the earth could be penetrated, but whether it is usual for Potatoes to become injured in that way, and that the evidence for the disease reaching them Toy the haulm was certainly the common method. Sifting fungus spores through sand and water. — Mr. W. G. Smith referred to some experiments he had made in reference to this subject. He said spores of the Potato fungus were not readily procurable in suSiciently large numbers where- with to make satisfactory experiments, but spores belonging to the smut of corn (Ustilago carbo) he had in large quantities, and with these the experi- ments were made. Ustilago spores, being nearly 32 THE GARDEN [Jan. 12, 1884. black in colour, possessed a great advantage over the spores and zoospores of the Potato fungas, which were colourless. Cylinders of glass were taken, each 8 inches long and half an inch in diameter ; into one of these 6 inches of fine sand was placed, the bottom of the tube being first tied over with calico to pre- vent the sand escaping. A teaspoonful of water charged with Ustilago fpores was then poured on to the top of the sand ; in ten minutes the water all ran through, and on examination with the microscope as many spores were present in the water which had percolated through the 6 inches of sand as in the water which had not run through. A second and similar cylinder was taken and charged with dry earth in fine powder. Water was then poured on the earth to make it quite compact, and more powdered earth and water placed in the tube till a compact 6-inch mass was presented. A spoonful of water charged with Ustilago spores was poured on the top. In two hours no water had run through, so the tube was left in a perpendicular position over a saucer all night. In the morning a part only of the water had run through, and this water was thickly charged with Ustilago spores. Mr. Smith said he was in the habit of filtering collodion through purified cotton wool, so that every par- ticle of dust and all minute atoms of grit might be retained in the wool, and he had never found the purified cotton wool fail. He therefore placed a plug of wool an inch deep in a third cylinder, and poured water charged with Ustilago spores on to the wool. In a short time most of the water had passed through, and there were as many spores, or nearly as many, in the filtered as in the unfiltered water. In these experiments, as was to be expected, all the spores did not run through with the water in which they were originally held. Some of the spores, together with a little water, remained, but on the application of additional water (as must occur in the case of rain) all, or nearly all, the spores .doubtless ran through. In the water which had passed through the earth a considerable number of spores belonging to two other fungi made their appearance. These must have been present in the earth. Mr. Smith said he had not the slightest wish to depreciate the value of Mr. Jensen's interesting full experiments, or to under- estimate the value of high moulding in Potatoes. He had merely challenged the experiments with sand, earth, and fungus spores. It had been proved, he said, that spores of a fungus ( Dactylium oogenum) could find their way through the shells of fowls' eggs and grow on the membrane within the shell. In the face of a circumstance like this, and several others of a similar nature might be added, said Mr. Smith, the reports of spore- filtering through sand should not be received with too much credulity. Professor Balfour remarked that spores— c.i; , of Penicillium, contain fat, which renders them diflicult to be wetted ; while Professor Church added that carded cotton wool contains a Iialf per cent, of fat, and it is only when treated with ether or boiling spirits of wine to remove this that it renders it easily permeable by water. If the wool has been thus treated, water runs through with extraordinary rapidity. Phylloxera in Victoria.— tir. M'Lachlan alluded to a reportmade on this subject by a committee of the Royal Society, when no Phylloxera was dis- covered in the roots sent for examination; but, unfortunately, on examining some fresh material it is found to be undoubtedly present in .some quantity. Not only was it in the living Vines, but in the roots left in the ground, showing the neces- sity of destroying by burning or drowning (as is done in England) the soil with the contained insects. Coltsfoot in flotrer.—'M.t. M'Lachlan recorded the first blossom of this plant as seen by him on January 7 near Lewes. It blossomed on same day in 1882, and on January 12, 1883. DcorUlimtion of chlorophyll. — Prof. Church re- ferred to a rediscovery by a French chemist of the possibility of restoring, not only the green colour to brown or oxidised chlorophyll, but also its characteristic absorption bands. He stated that about five years ago he discovered this process himself by mixing powdered zinc with boiling water and oxidised (brown) chlorophyll. It became after two or three days a brilliant green. It had been extracted from Beetroot leaves. Freesia sjt.—Froi. Balfour exhibited a spray of small greenish yellow flowers. It was referred to Kew for identification. OrcMdi! from oirt of doors. — Mr. Smce exhibited a plant of Odontoglossum Alexandra which had stood 8° of frost, but that species could not stand 11°. O. Kossi majus, however, withstood 11° on December 13; the plants were only protected by boughs. Lecture.— The Kev. G. Henslow first called attention to a Panax Victorife. It had variegated foliage and with leaflets varying between pinnate and bipinnate. Comparing with Aralia Sieboldi, he pointed out how compound leaves, both of digitate and pinnate types, are formed from simple leaves by dividing them up into separate leaflets. The word panax was from the supposed virtues of P. Schinseng of China, the root of which was a panacea for evils, and would make men not only young, but immortal. It had failed to do so in Europe. P. quinquefolia from North America was sometimes imported into China as a substi- tute. He next alluded to Chimonanthus fragrans, the Japanese Allspice, introduced in 1766 from China. This and the genus Calycanthus, called the Carolina Allspice, were the sole representa- tives of the order. The bark of the latter was sometimes used for Cinnamon. Mr. Henslow then remarked upon the fact that many plants, in- cluding Maples, Conifers, &c., had representative species in Japan and North America, and alluded to the speculations of geologists to account for the present distribution of such plants, and their descent from common forms, which probably existed in Miocene times, some of which appear to be those found at Oeningen and elsewhere in a fossilised state. Crotons and Poinsettias were next taken to illustrate the order Euphorbiace^e, characterised in England by weeds like Spurges, but in tropical countries by trees and shrubs. He drew attention to the introduction of the Poinsettia in 1828, and figured in the " Botanical JIagazine," tab. 3ly3. It was named after Mr. Poinsette, who discovered it in Mexico, who sent it to Charlestown, and from thence it came to Europe. Of Crotons, he mentioned the useful species — viz., Cro- ton tiglium, from the Indian Archipelago, whose seeds yielded the very acrid Croton oil ; C. eleuteria, from the Bahamas, which supplies the " cascarilla bark," containing bitter tonic and astringent qualities ; C. balsamiferum of West Indies, from which a spirit is made called Eau de Mantes ; and C. laciferum of Ceylon, which fur- nishes a resin for varnishes. He alluded to the coloured and white foliage of these variegated plants, and explained how it was due to a want in the composition of the green chlorophyll, which is usually a compound substance of at least yellow chlorophyll and blue chlorophyll. In the case of the yellow leaves of the Croton the latter sub- stance appeared to be wanting. In the white leaves of the Panax it was probably due to the extreme scarcity of chlorophyll grains. The last subject for remark was a beautiful hybrid raised by Mr. Seden of Messrs. Veitch's establishment. It is called C. Leeanum, and re- ceived a first-class certificate. Its parents were C. Spiceriannm, introduced in 1878, and C. insigne Maulei. It showed several intermediate cha- racters ; thus while C. Spiceriannm had a corru- gated purple and white shield (staminodium), that of C. insigne was smooth-edged and yellow-green. The hybrid shield had the colour of the latter, but the crimped edges of the former. Again, while the large upper petal is much spotted in C. in- signe, not at all in C. Spiceriannm, the hybrid is spotted, but to a much less extent than its parent. The slipper, however, was of a deeper red than is the case with either of the two species. Books. The English Plo-wer Garden.*— We have merely to announce the appearance of this book, and to state that, after discussion and illustration of all the more important divisions of the subject, occupying 124 pages, the whole of the materials useful for our flower gardens is arranged in the form of an illustrated dictionary. There are in all over 700 closely printed and illustrated pages, the number of illustrations being nearly 1300. The English names, as well as the Latin ones, are given in the alphabetical arrangement. The most famous tree in Paris is about to disappear — viz., the Fevrier or Gleditschia of the National Library. It is believed to have been planted as a tree of liberty in 1789, and was the gift of the English botanist, Catesby. In 1839 on the erection of the new reading room it had to be removed 50 yards to the court of the library, a diflicult task, for it was 60 feet high, and the ex- pense came to £320. The court after the enlarge- ment of the library is about to be paved, and the tree is to be felled. A like fate has very unne- cessarily attended the Elms in the adjoining Place Louvois, and Chestnuts are to be substituted. The papers have been protesting against this munici- pal vandalism, the more so as the planting of every tree costs £8, the tree itself costing 5s., while the rest are swallowed up by digging, drain- ing, railing, &c. Boyal Hortloultuial Society's Com- mittees.— The meeting of these committees at South Kensington on Tuesday last may be said to be the first movement this year in matters horti- cultural. This first meeting is also notable from the fact that the floral committee has been divided into two sections — one for florists' flowers, the other for stove and greenhouse plants — a step in the right direction. By this arrangement greater attention and more time can be given to the different subjects jbrought under notice. It is, I understand, the intention of the Council to concentrate all the Society's energies on these meetings during the present year and abandon the big shows — another stepin the right direction. These meetings form the very backbone of the Society, and deserve every encouragement from the fact that probably nearly everything that is novel, good, and interesting in the way of plants, fruits, or vegetables find their way to them. As for the big shows, they are in the main but repetitions of the same things year after year, few novel features being introduced, and what is of great moment to the Society just now is the fact that the prize money given away at such shows will be saved for, let us hope, some more useful purpose. — Q. Cinerarias (.4. Z.)— Good, but inferior to the strains exhibited in London in spring. Clematis cocclnea.— I (lowered this Clematis in pots in a cool house last year, luit I wjis disappointed with it. Tlie flowers are not nmcli like those of a Clematis and the colour liy no means stril-ing.— J. C. C. DavalUa bullata.— The Davallia recently imported from Japan by Mr. O'Brien, and quaintly arranged on Cocoa-nut lll)re in the sliape of boats, Ac, proves on fruit- ins to be a small variety of D. bullata, and not, as was supposed, D. Mariesi. Blenheim Orange Apple.— The fact of this Apple realising in this year of plenty 6s. per sieve in Covent Garden, where good fruit may be bought at less than half that price, is sufficient proof cf the estimation in which it is held. Unfortunately, it does not thrive everywhere, but where it does it should evidently be largely planted. — J. C. B. Names of plants.— Co7Jsfa»it Reader.— \, Dieffen- bachia picta ; 2. D. Bausei ; 3, Chamwranthemnm Bej-riehi ; 4, next weeli. A. T. B. Bareno.—l. Gymnogi-amma de- composita ; 2, Polypodiiim :appendiculatnni ; 3. Polysti- chnm aiiEulsre ; 4, Polypndinm neriifolium. R. Elliott. — 1, Cheilaothes mysorensis ; 2, Adiantnm hispidnlum ; 3. Polypodium appendiculatum ; 4, cannot identify for want of fertile fronds ; may be either an Anemia or a Cyrto- miuiii. iJareno.- Eucalyptus pnlverulenta (Sims) S r. fBari;.— Not an Abutilon ; Pavonia spinifex .— Sautolina incana; Cyclamen venium. »"The English Flower Garden." By 'W. Kobinson. London: John Shuray, Alhermarle Street. New York: .Scribner and Welford. THE GARDEN *o. «3S. SATURDAY, Jan. 19. 1884. Vol XXV. " This Is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather: but The art itself is Natcbe."— SAafespeore. NOTES FEOM CAPRI. I SEND yon flowers of the beautiful Lithosper- mnm rosmarinifolium. They are extremely fuga- cious when picked, so that I can hardly hope that after a four days' journey by post, they will reach you in anything like good order, but the colour is so remarkable that it is worth the trial. This Lithospermum grows mostly on the limestone cliffs overhanging the sea, but happily also in more ac- cessible places, nearly always in company with Rosemary, which it strongly resembles when out of flower. Crocus Imperati is now flowering in bushy places facing the north. The berries I send you of Smilas aspera show the fruit in two stages. This Smilas is one of the most frequent plants in this island, beautiful in all its forms and extremely variable in the shape of the leaves, for whereas they are usually long and more or less marbled with white, in some cases they are broadly heart-shaped, 3 inches across, and in proportion more thick and leathery, like old Ivy leaves, and of an even deep green coloar. Its graceful garlands decorate walls, rocks, bushes, cliffs, and all waste places. Passerina Tartonraira is an interesting, shrub- like plant, or perhaps true shrub, 2 feet high, allied to Daphne, and common in the Greek Islands. Locally, it is said not to be a native, but to have been sown all over the uncultivated parts of the island about sixty years ago, to increase the supply of brush-wood for fuel. Anemone hortensis is very common, and now starring the hillsides with its bright flowers. The form of the Rosemary, known as Rosmarinus officinalis procumbens, grows in crevices of exposed rocks near the sea ; the branches are quite prostrate, hugging the rock and following all its forms. I have secured some seedling plants and rooted natural layers, wishing to prove if it will retain its prostrate form in cultivation. I am inclined to doubt it, observing that where it grows in better soil and shelter it is an upright bush, though less free in growth than our garden kind. G. J. A PUZZLING TIME FOR ROSES. When in November last we gave our Rose trees their usual annual mulching of old manure, tied together the branches of the heads of standard.*, and the more tender ones amongst bush Roses, in anticipation of a winter at least ordinarily severe, we were reckoning without our host. The visits of Mr. Frost (we must speak of him re- spectfully just now, for he may be upon us at any moment) have been so gently paid up to the pre- sent time, that our Roses have scarcely known that they took place ; they have continued growing and blooming on the old shoots, and now that the new year has come the 1884 leaf-buds are sending out vigorous shoots three months before their time, all, it is feared, to be nipped off by subsequent frosts. Two side shoots will probably take the place of each of these, but the mischief will have been done; the best efforts of the plants will have been wasted ; and even thus early it is not difficult for us to forecast a year of small blooms, gene- rally speaking, with but a very little summer wood. The perfected sap of last season has not been driven down by the winter's cold into the storehouses of ripened wood and roots ; therefore, when called upon after pruning time to support foliage and blooms, it will not be forthcoming. It is, therefore, necessary that we should not cease to heavily mulch the ground so as to afford warmth and nutriment. The roots will make active growth under theirblanket of manure, which will also protect the junction of stem and soil. In a season such as this of almost unprecedented mild- ness so far as it.has gone, it is almost impossible to prevent the warm spring-like air from drawing up the sap to the tops of the shoots, and there must of necessity be great waste at pruning time, but without the mulch all this waste would impoverish an already disabled tree to such an extent that if it survived at all, would make but an ineffective show during the ensuing season. It is just pos- sible we may pass through this winter without any very severe frosts, but when we remember that four years out of five we have frosts on the night of May 20, we must expect our poor Roses to suf- fer. As it is, they are nonplussed by the cruel kindness of the season, and the hardier kinds of Hybrid Perpetuals, with characteristic boldness, are poshing onwards with June-like energy. Teas and other tender kinds, almost hidden from light amongst Bracken and old netting, are, however, not making much growth. Of pruning time it is too early to speak — " much will happen before then :" but we do know this, that so far as we have gone, (he terminal shoots now acting as safety-valves for the trees as it were will be cut off in due time, and the dormant buds will be found none the worse for the abnormal temperature to which they have been subjected if supplies of nutriment are furnished and the roots kept warm. Those who have not already mulched their Roses should therefore do so without delay. R. A. H. G. Horsforth, near Leeds. DO\VNHILL, COLERAINE. This, the seat of Sir Hervey Bruce, Bart., M.P., is situated on a high promontory several hundred feet above the level of the sea, facing the At- lantic on the north, and Lough Foyle on the west. Here is an interesting field for the antiquary, but it is not my province to enter into topics relating to bygone times, but simply to note a few horti- cultural characteristics, which I do from a few hurried notes, taken on the 10th ult. Being so high and exposed to merciless storms from the adjacent ocean, shelter for the castle is an impossi- bility, and it has to withstand the fierce blasts which blow from the seaboard. The hill on which it is built is surounded by a glen, which in places assumes by its wild abruptness, precipices over which water falls, in some cases, 40 feet. In this glen the trees, if such they can be called, partake of the form of veritable scrub nearest the sea, but farther in they gradually become larger, until, on the sheltered side, they look as if they had no relationship with their storm-beaten brethren to which I have just adverted. On each side there are lakes, one being of considerable size, and in the centre of it there are a few clumps of Rhodo- dendron ponticum which, when in bloom, must have a fine appearance. On the sheltered side of the glen shrubs of various sorts grow with the greatest luxuriance. Hollies attain a height of from 30 feet to 40 feet, and are full of berries, which, by-the-way, are pretty plentiful here- abouts, though scarce in some parts of Eng- land. Laurels, too, and Pontic Rhododendrons, &c., make up, as it were, for the scrubbi- ness observed elsewhere. A good breadth is being converted into a wild garden, in which Camellias, Cotoneaster frigida, Phormium tenax, and many other half-hardy plants (rarely bearing more than 10" of frost) are planted out and appa- rently doing well ; also Daffodils in numberless quantities and Lilies of several sorts ; L. auratum produces flower stems from 4 feet to 5 feet high, and will undoubtedly become stronger when better established, being only planted one year. Hosts of other bulbs are also being introduced, and in spring the " banks and braes " are covered with wild Hyacinth (Scilla nutans). In addition to this there are numerous nooks and crannies in which are to be planted out different sorts of hardy Ferns, the common and coloured Primroses, and other shade-loving subjects. As regards The kitchen garden, on account of the fury of the elements, Mr. Carter (the gardener) has necessarily much to contend with. Cabbages even being wrenched out of the ground by the roots, as well as other things ; and in order to coun- teract these misfortunes as much as possible, it is surrounded by a substantial wall nearly 12 feet high and divided by other walls, all being well and profitably covered with fine examples of fruit trees and flowering shrubs. As to the former the well-stocked shelves of the fruit room testify to the quantity and quality of their produce this year. Of Pears I was shown fine fruits of Hacon's Incomparable, Beurrfi Bachelier, Marie Louise (exceptionally fine and even throughout), Beurr6 Diel, BeurrS Eance, Autumn Bergamot, and Duchesse d'Orleans, all finer than we usually see them in this part of Ireland. Of Apples I may mention as being very good Lord Grosvenor, Lord Nelson, Cox's Pomona, Blenheim Orange, York- shire Greening, Winter Greening, King of the Pippins, Lemon Pippin, and a local sort called Ballyfatten, a kind on which dependence can always be placed for producing a crop. During the last year or so several hundred feet of move- able glass coping have been put up, under which were healthy and well-trained Plums and Apricots ; the latter, as usual everywhere this season, ripened some very few fruit. Of Plums Pond's Seedling, Eeine Claude de Bavay, Coe's Golden Drop, and Or- leans bore good crops. Worthy of special notice on the walls are The flowering shrubs. On the west aspect are healthy, vigorous plants of Myrtles, consisting of buxifolia, Jenny Reitenbach, and the common variety, the latter covering a space of 1 2 feet by 15 feet, and literally one mass of bloom-buds, waiting, as it were, for a glint of bright sunshine to become one sheet of white. Ceanothus azureus covered a breadth of 160 square feet. Escallonias seemed apparently at home on a north-east wall. E. macrantha flourishes here as a bush. The Kew and Glasnevin varieties (E. illinita) are also on this wall, and also E. rubra, fioribunda, sanguinea, IngTami, and Phillipiana ; the latter, however . appears to be somewhat tenderer than the others Altbasa frutex also does well on a west aspect. The glass structuees, of which there are many, consist of vineries. Peach houses, stoves, and show houses. There are also numerous pits (heated) and cold frames— indispensable auxi- liaries for the rearing of what is termed famish- ing material, such as Cinerarias (single and double, in different stages). Cyclamens, Calceolarias, Mar- guerites, zonal Pelargoniums, Libonias, &c. The stove, a three-quarter span-roofed house, contains a varied collection of clean and well-grown plants, and a fine row of the different Calanthes takes the eye on entering ; their spikes vary from 2 feet to 3 feet in length, many of them being well branched. A fine pair of Phalus grandifolius in 12-inch pots were throwing up their flower-spikes ; last year they had eighteen and twenty spikes respectively, and they look as if they will be as floriferous this year. On the roof is a Stepha- notis, which covers not less than 300 square feet, and is one of the freest of the free- flowering va- rieties. A few other subjects in this house de- serving of notice were Croton angularis, Moore- anus, Disraeli, Baron Rothschild, Rex, Weis- manni, and some others ; also Aralia Veitchi, gra- cillima, large masses of Anthurium Soherzeria- num, Cocos Weddelliana, Dieffenbachia Bausei, 34 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. Dr.acEenas ia variety, Poinsettias, Ixora WiUiamsi, and the Zanzibar Balsam (Impatiens Sultani), whicia is always in bloom. Of Ferns there were fine plants of Davallia Mooreana and Microlepia hirta cristata, and numerous others usually seen in a well-stocked plant stove. In the conservatory were fine, healthy, well-grown plants of Bouvardia elegans, the largest being 4 feet through ; Statice imbricata, from 3 feet to i feet in diameter ; and the old double white IVimula, over 2 feet. Other varieties of Primula were rubra and grandi- flora, also finely grown. In another house was a grand collection of Chrysanthemums, conspicuous amongst incurved sorts being the well known Mrs. G. Bundle, Mr. G. Glenny, Bronze Jardin des Plantes, General Bainbridge, Golden Beverley, Golden Empress, and about a score of others. In the Japanese section were Baron de Frailly, Cry Kang, Elaine, James Salter, Lady Selborne, Red Dragon, Peter the Great, Bouquet Fait, and many others. Amongst reflexed and pompones were Dr. Sharpe, Julie Lagravfere, the different sorts of Cedo Nnlli, Marabout, Golden Madame Marth6, and others too numerous to particularise. The most striking feature, however, speaking horti- culturally, about Downhill is The winter garden. This building, which adjoins, in fact forms part of, the Castle itself, is worth going a long way to see ; its dimensions are : 70 feet long, 30 feet wide, and 40 feet high. A glass door leads into it from Lady Bruoe's boudoir, which is opposite the centre walk, and from which a fine panoramic view of the in- terior of the house is obtained. From the oppo- site end a commodious billiard-room is entered, In this winter garden there are stately Palms, Tree Ferns, &c, the dimensions of a few of which are as follows, viz. : Dicksonia antarctica, 20 feet high, with fronds 15 feet long ; Cyathea medullaris, 30 feet high, fronds 20 feet long ; Alsophila excelsa, 15 feet high, fronds 10 feet long ; Woodwardia radicans has a spread of 15 feet ; Lo- maria gibba may be seen of different sizes and very fine in every respect; and Todea africana is 6 feet across ; this last came from the Sydney Bo- tanic Gardens. Associated with these were also Alsophila pruinata, a neat-habited Tree Fern ; Sea- forthia elegans, a grand Palm 30 feet high ; Areca sapida, 20 feet high ; A. Baueri, the same height ; a Corypha, 16 feet high ; and Latania borbonica with enormous dark shining leaves. Dracaena australis and indivisa are 30 feet and 25 feet high respectively. Below these noble specimens a groundwork is being formed of suitable shade- loving plants, such as Aspidistras, Marantas, green-leaved Dracaenas, Sword Fern (Nephrolepis ensifolia), Pteris tremnla, Caladium esculentum, with leaves from 4 feet to 5 feet across, and many others. The walls and girders are clothed with Asparagus tenuifolius, which last season made shoots 15 feet long. Ficus repens, Abutilons, Habrothamnus elegans, Newelli and fasciculatus, Taosonia Van Volxemi, Cobiea scandens variegata, kc, are also all well grown in this house. Worthy of special notice, too, are the hanging baskets of Maiden-hair Fern (A. cuneatnm) which are well clothed top and bottom. This Fern is also artistically used in making up pyramids built on defunct Tree-Fern trunks of different heights, and from which an almost inexhaustible supply of fronds can always be had. On the whole Mr. Car- ter is deserving of much credit for the taste and ability with which he conducts this fine horticul- tural establishment. S. Kevan. Caatle Upton, Templppatri^k. *f* Along with this communication came some Pears quite as good as we have seen from any gar- dens in the southern counties of England. They are large, varied, and good in flavour. The fact is en- couraging when we consider the bad repute for fruit-growing which our climate now enjoys. — Ed. Lily of the Field.— My experience of Sternbergia lutea IS that it is very shy as regards flowering, wliile tlie variety aiisustiJulia, both ia the form ot large anj small clump.s, flowers with great profusion under precisely the same conditions. I would therefore recommend "B." to obtain this naiTow-Ieaved variety, which is one of the loveliest flowers of its season.— E. I. h. PLANTS IN FLOWER. Comte Brazza's White Violet —I send you two or three flowers of Oom'e Brazza's beautiful white Violet, the flowers of which are not in such good condition as we have had them, but they will enable you to form an idea of the beautiful and sweet scent of this finest of white Violets. — Thomas Wari^, Hale Farm Nursen/, Tottenham. %* Not so fine as the flowers sent to us by Mr. Allan from Gunton, but beautiful even in their present state.— ED. Coloured Primroses.— Mr. Dean, Ealing, sends us a bunch of tliese, in order to show what a wealth of bright colours they afford during mild winters like this. Mr. Dein states that they are the produce of seedling plants flowering for the first time, and adds that he flnds the infe- rior forms bloom first. With the shelter of a cold frame, it is evident that one might have Primroses all through the winter. Acacia platyptera.— This Acacia blooms before any of the others — at least, before any of those that resemble it— and therefore it forms a very useful greenhouse or conservatory plant at this time of the year. It is of vigorous yet bushy growth, and differs greatly from the others, owing to its peculiarly winged stems, which seem to take the place of leaves. The whole plant is just now a mass of deep golden-coloured little balls and strikingly beautiful. Spiraea confusa. — At the last meeting at South Kensington some beautiful sprays of this elegant shrubby Spirsea were exhibited by Messrs. Stuart & Mein, Kelso, which admirably showed how suitable the plant is for forcing into flower early. It has small leaves and clusters of tiny white flowers, produced in a wreath-like manner the whole length of the slender shooots. This was the first time we had seen this particular Spiraea forced so early. January flowers.— As a proof of the mild- ness of the season here, I may mention that the sweet-scented Coltsfoot has been in blossom in this neighbourhood since the 30th December. I have also a pink and a blue Hepatica out in my garden. Snowdrops out in the pleasure ground, and I this morning found a blossom of the wild yellow Ficaria. I may also remark I have been gathering Violets out of the open garden for the last month or six weeks. I enclose the blossom as a curiosity. — A. M., Castle UVay, Lttterhenny . Hardy flowers in January.— Mr. Kings- mill sends us from his snug little garden at East- cote, Pinner, a bunch of bright-looking hardy flowers, which include Pansies, Primroses, double Daisies, and Elwes' Snowdrop (Galanthus El wesi), large and fine ; also Iris stylosa, Limnanthes Douglasi, with golden and white-cupped flowers and Fern-like foliage ; Ficaria grandiflora, the finest of the genus, the flowers being 2 inches across, bright yellow, and shining as if varnished. Likewise the Chilian Triteleia uniflora lilacina, bright and cheerful at this season of the year in the open border. Oy tiauB fllipes. — Among the rarer kinds of flowers that now adorn the greenhouse at Kew, this pretty Canary Island Broom is so conspicuous that it deserves to be mentioned as being worthy of general cultivation for greenhouse ornamenta- tion in winter. It has long slender shoots much like those ot our common Broom, but lessjrobust, and the whole length of the shoots is wreathed with tiny blossoms of snowy whiteness. The ele- gance of growth, combined with the purity of the flowers, renders this Broom most valuable for in- termingling with showierplants. It flowers natu- rally at this season without forcing. Garry a elUptioa. — This elegant, hardy, evergreen shrub is now an object of much interest to visitors to Kew Gardens, where there are now several fine specimens of it, laden with its long and slender male catkins, hanging on all sides of the bush in graceful profusion. There are cer- tainly very few hardy shrubs that can compare with this for elegant beauty, and one cannot con- ceive any winter flower more charming than this is for vase decoration. The quiet, greenish colour of the catkins needs only to be relieved by a few sprays of some attractive flower — an Odonto- glossum Alexandra;, for example — in order to make a most tasteful arrangement. This Garrya is perfectly hardy, but it likes a dry, sheltered spot, as sharp frosts are liable to injure the catkins. It is an admirable object for clothing a wall, being green all the year round, and in winter attractive in the way of bloom for several weeks at a time. The common form of this shrub is the male, the female, which is less attractive, being rarely met with. FERNS. AUSTRALIAN TREE FERNS. Although a few of the temperate region Tree Ferns which now are frequently seen in our cool conservatories and winter gardens come from different parts of the globe, situated even so widely apart as Mexico, China, and South Africa, their production is not by any means limited to the countries just named ; on the contrary, we are indebted for the great bulk of the most decorative of them to the mountainous regions of Australia, where, as is cleariy shown in the accompanying illustration, they grow thickly in deep, dark, shaded ravines, or in naturally and constantly damp valleys, where they attain very large dimen- sions. Nor could the Tree Ferns of Australia proper, that is to say, the particularly straight-stemmed Alsophila australis, native of the Stuart and Gawler ranges, the Alsophila Cooperi, the stem of which is slender, very straight, and totally deprived of ferial roots, completely distinct in that respect from any other known arborescent kind, found in abundance in Queensland and the handsome Dicksonia Youngice, from the Blue Mountains and Liverpool Range in New South Wales, particularly remarkable on account of its rough, slender stem and its long, plumose fronds, borne on stout stalks, furnished with light brown hairs, be kept apart from those of Tasmanian and New Zealand origin, as they not only succeed admirably under similar treatment, but are likewise often found scattered over the different habitats just alluded to. However productive of Tree Ferns other parts of Australia may be, it is undoubtedly in Victoria, a natural grove of which district the annexed illustration represents, that those possessing the most imposing proportions are found. There Dicksonia antarctica grows to a height of GO feet or more. Its great height is not, however, the only quality which recommends it as the handsomest Tree Fern known; the symmetry of its noble head of ample fronds, and its massive trunk are also striking features belonging to it, as may be seen by the fine specimen in the left hand corner of the illustration. Victoria, how- ever, possesses no monopoly in the way of forests of this Fern, as Tasmania, or what formerly used to be called Van Dieman's Land, which is only separated from the Australian continent by Bass's Straits, has also a great share in the production of this Dicksonia, especially Mount Wellington. In both places the habitats of the Tree Ferns are so damp that they seem to be enveloped in perpetual mist, an assertion borne out by the fact that most of the trunks imported into this country are either partially or totally clothed with the little Hymeno- phyllum rarum, and the equally diminutive, though exceedingly pretty, Trichomanes venosum, both species which could not possibly luxuriate under any other atmospheric conditions. The hardiness of Dicksonia antarctica is surprising ; it has been even found with its head heavily laden with snow. Notwithstanding this, however, its culture out-of- doors does not seem to have met with any decided success. Besides antarctica. New Zealand might also claim the posses -ion of the Silver Tree Fern (Cyathea dealbata) a kind with large fronds, which, owing to the silvery colour of their under- surface, are very attractive. C. medullaris, a gigantic Tree Fern, with stalks of a beautiful ebony-black colour, and C. Smithi, an arborescent kind with very delicately divided fronds. Also Dicksonia squar- rosa with a very slender stem and fronds disposed in a nearly horizontal position, D. fibrosa, which seems only a crisp form of D. antarctica, and the less-known Dicksonia lanata— all natives of New Zealand where they form the bulk of the forest vegetation as regards arborescent Ferns. S. Jan. 10 1884. J THE GARDEN 85 MH| ifi"- . M($'^'W'^"^^^ EI^B l'^ *;■-., . ■'',,.:;' 'ryill^lt-;-;^ '"^*''^\^^5f" Ji*: ;■"- /-i|i ; ^K| -'•■-:- ---^^^i^P cis ::t :i!" i=^ .s^K^^5i!/w^5%>'V^"j!; Hi'fl-' ,::''^3^pS Kii^P^^^^^^^^B^^^^^gBI ^|P«^M 'i^^^B ■^krr:??^"'' ''^-" ' " -- . " ^>_' .■-•■'-- -'''.'' .f'.', " ^^^^p^H - '■.*'*K;:^ 1 .Mill-:'/ - "^'^^S/ "' ■' ltr'*rtlv: -ttl' -■ 'i ■4 < < 2 o m 'A a a CX4 '■'■:..^^.. -^ ^^Sfc-'>" "t^ l,,v - -WvfiSi.-^ ^^f;;-?"^^r ■;:■"- \':x-^ . ''* l;v;^r:vr;''^Js#^:V"-:-^-"" '■ lili^SS^H ■ ,;.':■- ■■,• \ . . ' ■ '■■^-^^i'&ii/^/ ^■^: ■ ^?:- ■■ -WfW-'f^^ -^■' '■ J:-/;:'"' :-^ --^ -■ V- ''\'' ' "^ '■; " ^H^^^^ti 36 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. Indoor Garden. GLOEIOSAS AND THEIR CULTDEE. These consist of a limited number of bulboas plants which bear handsome, distinct, and some- what singular-looliing flowers. Thej are deci- duous, the stems dying down gradually in au- tumn after flowering, which they generally do in July and August, a time at which they are more useful for conservatory decoration than at any other season, when there is usually a comparative scarcity of flowers. The peculiar character of their blooms befits them for association with either flne-leaved or ordinary flowering plants. They are especially adapted for cultivation by those who have not a large amount of stove room, as their roots can be stowed away in winter so as to occupy no more space than those of Gloxinias and similar plants, and they are likewise well suited for purposes of exhibition. They are easily managed, and require no special treatment to in- sure their growing and flowering abundantly. Peopagation.— They may be increased by di- vision of the roots in spring, just as they have started into growth, in the same man- ner as Gloxinias, cutting through the crown with a sharp knife so as to secure to each piece thus divided a bud or shoot. When raised from seeds, they should be sown in March, in the stove, in small well-drained pots filled with equal parts of finely-sifted loam, leaf-mould, and sand, covering the seeds slightly, and placing them in a heat of 70°. Keep the soil moderately moist, and when the plants make their appearance set them near the light, in order to prevent their being drawn up weakly, and as soon as they are fit to handle put them singly into 3-inch pots in soil similar to that in which the seeds were sown. They will now, it well attended to by giving them the requisite amount of heat, moisture, and shade, make rapid progress ; they only require to be slightly protected from the sun's rays during the middle of the day, for if shaded to any great ex- tent, as some plants are, it will weaken them. As their pots get filled with roots, move them into larger ones, using the soil for this shift in a more lumpy condition than hitherto, but still containing more sand than would be necessary for the gene- rality of plants, one-fifth not being too much to add to the soil at all times. The most suitable mixture in which to grow them after the bulbs have attained some size is two-thirds good turfy loam and one- third fibrous peat, covering the bulbs about 2 inches. They require plenty of water when in active growth ; support the shoots as they extend with some neat sticks inserted round the outside of the ball. Give a rjoderate amount of air early in the day, closing the house in good time in the afternoon, syringing overhead at the same time. The coolest end of the stove or the temperature of an Intermediate house will answer better for them than hotter treatment ; they will grow in an ordinary greenhouse, but so treated they do not attain the size and vigour which they do when brought on in heat until the flowers are about to open. Plants from seed, if well managed, may be expected to produce a few blossoms the first season ; but it not allowed to flower they will make better bulbs. As soon as they show signs of their growth stopping in autumn, give less water, but do not withhold the supplyall at once, or it will have an injurious efliect by preventing the bulbs going through their naturally gradual ripening process. When ripe, allow the soil to become quite dry, and keep it in that condition all through the winter, laying the pots on their sides in a temperature of from 46=' to 50°. In March they may be again started, putting them singly in •1-in. pots in soil such as that recommended for the second shift the preceding summer, using it in a rather dry state, and giving little or no water until growth has commenced, as if too wet before the roots have begun to push, there is danger of their rotting. Place them in a heat of from 55° to fio^, when they will soon begin growing, and keep them near the light. As soon as they have made a fair quantity of roots, four or five of the bulbs may be put in a 12-inch pot ; in this way whilst in a comparatively small state they will make much more efEective specimens than if grown singly. When they are about a foot or so high, wire trellises should be fixed to the pots, and the shoots kept regularly trained round them. When the soil gets filled with roots they will require sup- plying liberally with water, and if liquid manure is given once or twice a week, it will assist them considerably. In other respects treat as recom- mended tor the previous season, and when they begin to open their flowers they should be removed to a cool house, where they will last much longer in bloom than it kept in heat. When The tloweeing is over, gradually dry ;them off as before, and if the size of the pots makes it objectionable to winter the bulbs in them, they may, when the tops are dead, be taken out and wintered in smaller ones filled with thoroughly dry earth, with which they must be covered, to prevent too much shrivelling. It, when the bulbs get large, it is found desirable to increase them by division in the manner stated, it is essential when so treated that they do not receive any water till growth has commenced and the cut part has had time to break, or they will be liable to rot, for the prevention of which mishap surround them with an inch of dry sand at the time of potting. Two SPECIES only of Gloriosa are worth grow- ing, viz., G. superba, which has rich orange flowers tinged with red, reflexed and crisped on the margins ; a native of the East Indies. G. Planti. —Lower petals light yellow; upper portion of the flower bright red, tinged with orange. Insects.— Gloriosas suffer but little from insect depredations, their juices not being of a nature to be relished by them. T. Baines. TYD^EAS IX WINTER. With bat little attention, these pretty, quaintly marked flowers can be had throughout "the winter, or, indeed, at nearly any other season if desired, but still it is from October to February when they are especially valuable as flowering plants ; they are by no means so plentiful then as at other seasons. We have had them in blossom since October, and the same plants will, unless some unforeseen event should occur, continue to flower till February or even later. At present our Tydaias attract greater attention than most other flowering plants owing to their pretty, delicate markings, and also from the fact that they are comparatively uncommon and seldom seen in a satisfactory con- dition. In spring we obtained a number of their singular rhizomes, and potted them three in a 4-inch pot, the soil used being loam, mixed mode- rately with leaf-mould, decayed manure, and sand. When potted, they were placed on a shelf in an intermediate house, and as soon as the young shoots were long enough they were taken off as cuttings, increase of stock being desired. When the plants began to grow again, they were har- dened off and kept during the summer in a cold frame, the result being that the growth was short and sturdy, and towards autumn flower-buds began to show themselves in great numbers. As the nights commenced to get cold the plants were removed to a light position in the intermediate house, where they have been ever since, and wliere they are flowering profusely. During summer when well rooted they were potted into 5-inch and C-inch pots, and after a time weak manure water was given them occasionally. The cuttings when struck were hardened off and by degrees treated like the others, a mode of proceeding that seems to suit them, as it is almost impossible to tell the cuttings from the original plants. Another point to be considered in estimating the merits of Tydasas is that they are but little troubled with insect pests, the only ones that at- tack them to any extent being aphides, which are easily destroyed with tobacco smoke, used not too strong, otherwise the foliage might suffer. Another year I hope to carry out a plan I once saw successfully practised in the case of these plants — viz., raising them from seed in spring and growing them on so as to flower the following winter. Seed is easily obtained by placing a few plants, when in bloom, in a dry part of the house and crossing one with another. If representatives of each type are thus employed, the progeny will vary to a great extent, many of them being in all respects equal to named kinds. The seed should be sown early in February, and as it is very minute it should be very thinly covered, if at all. A good way is to sow on the surface and lay a pane of glass over the top till germination takes place. The young plants must be pricked off when large enough to handle and afterwards grown as those just referred to. A selection of a few good sorts should include Madame Heine, Madame Halphen, Gigantea, Lady Caroline Kerrison, Cratere, Tricolor, Robert le Diable, Podalyre, (Esculap, Harlequin, and Venosa, the last five being selected from a number of varieties grown at Chiswick for trial, and awarded certificates by the Royal Horticultural Society. One of them, Robert le Diable, is a grand variety tor winter, as also are those that precede it in the above list. H. P. DICHOEISANDEAS. These are very distinct habited plants indige- nous to Brazil and South America ; they are ever- green, herbaceous in habit, with strong Eeed-like stems, growing to a height of from 2 feet to 4 feet, and bearing broad, lanceolate, cordate leaves ; the flowers are produced in a compact cluster at the top of the shoots. They are principally late summer and autumn bloomers, at which sea- son their decided blue flowers — a colour common to most of the species — are very effective. They are easily grown where a moderately high tempe- rature can be kept up, and are well adapted for associating with most of the more easily culti- vated hothouse plant.s, to which their erect habit presents a decided contrast. Tiieie propagation is in no way difficult ; they are best increased by division of the crowns, which can be separated readily with a strong knife, retaining to each a portion of roots. This should be done early in the spring, just before they begin to grow, which latter will, as a matter of course, be regulated by the amount of warmth the plants have been subjected to during the winter — their season of comparative rest. I have found them to succeed best in peat to which has been added a moderate quantity of sand. When the crowns have been thus sepa- rated, they should be placed in pots large enough to admit their roots with sufhcient soil ; if the crowns are strong. Cinch pots will not be too large. Put them at once in a temperature of 65° in the night, or if a few degrees higher it will do no harm. Here they will soon begin to grow, after which supply them liberally with water. Stand them where they will get a full volume of light, for if kept over dark the shoots will be drawn up too tall. In the matter of air and shade, treat as for ordinary stove plants, syringing them freely overhead when the house is shut up in the after- noons. By the middle of May the plants should be ready for larger pots ; 8 inches or 0 inches in diameter will not be too big, using soil similar to that already advised. Through the summer they will bear a liberal amount of heat, such as is found to answer for most stove subjects, regu- lating it in accordance with the weather. Beyond this nothing farther will be required. The strongest of the plants will flower through the autumn, after which they may be sub- jected to a gradually reduced temperature, keeping them at about 60° in the night through the winter. In spring again give more heat and re-pot, giving them a 2-inch or 3-inch shift, treat- ing subsequently in other respects as advised for the previous summer. In years to come the size of the plants will be regulated by individual re- quirements ; they may be grown large, so as to have a dozen or more flowering stems each season, in which case the root room needed will be pro- portionate. The old stems should be cut away annually to make room for the young growth. Jan. 19, 1884.] THE GARDEN 37 Species. — As to the kinds grown, there isa con- siderable sameness in their appearance ; conse- quently it is not necessary nor advisable to cultivate too many. Amongst the most desirable are the following : D. musaica. — Three feet to 4 feet high. Beautiful deep blue flowers, borne on handsome Bamboo-like stems; the foliage bold and distinct. A native of the Amazon country, and one of the best of the species. D. Saun- dersi.— Stems 2 feet to 3 feet high. This makes dense racemes of white violet-tipped flowers. In- troduced from Brazil. D. albo-marginata. — Stems of moderate strength. Flowers white and blue. From Brazil. D. undata. — A stout-growing plant with Reed-like stems ; the flowers blue, and pro- duced in summer. From Brazil. D. thyrsiflora, — A strong grower, like those already named, of erect habit. It blooms in summer; flowers deep purple. Brazil. In addition to being deserving of cultivation on account of their flowers, all the above have handsome foliage. ' Insects.— Their smooth, glossy leaves do not afford much harbour for insects, the least diflicult to contend with of which will be easily kept down by syringing. If scale or mealy bug make their appearance, syringe with insecticide and sponge carefully. T. Baines. fortnight they will be sufiBciently rooted to allow a little air to be given, and it should be increased day by day till the light or lights are removed altogether, when soon afterwards they must be potted off. Want of success in striking Bou- vardias is in nine cases out of ten the result of using cuttings other than the very young shoots. Petunias are struck in just the same way, but they are even more sensitive as regards excess of moisture than the Bouvardias. These latter can be readily propagated by means of root cuttings, and by some this method is preferred to any other. In my opinion, however, cuttings made of the shoots are best. Alpha. PROPAGATING BOUVARDIAS. Neither Bouvardias nor double Petunias require to be plunged in bottom heat to cause them to root. In spring they strike readily enough with- out it ; indeed, too much heat would cause them to damp off. We propagate oars in the following manner : In a small house kept at an interme- diate temperature some air-tight cases like small frames are placed on a bed of Cocoa-nut fibre, be- neath which run hot-water pipes ; the heat from the latter rising through the fibre is just sufin- cient to maintain a healthy growing atmosphere, but it can in no way be regarded as bottom heat, for the fibre is pressed down closely and the pots of cuttings only rest on the surface. Regarding the question of plunging cuttings of this class wheii callused, I may say that under favourable conditions they root in spring without forming any callus, or at all events only a slight one, and roots are not pushed from it alone, but from all parts of the stem. By far the greatest point to be considered in propagating such plants is ob- taining good cuttings. About the end of January we take our Bouvardias, which have had a slight rest since flowering, into the propagating house, and place them on the side stages, stock plants of Fuchsias, Petunias, Heliotropes, and similar sub- jects being also taken there. With the increased temperature and occasional syringings, the plants at once start into growth, and when the young shoots are long enough for cuttings they are taken off and put in pots of light sandy soil, when they root in about a fortnight. It is unnecessary to take the shoots off at a joint, as they strike equally well from any part of the stem, provided the entire cutting is of recent growth ; should, how- ever, just the bottom part be of a woody character then they root only with difliculty. We use 4-inch pots for the cuttings, filling them one half with broken crocks and the other with soil, consisting of two parts peat or leaf-mould to one each of loam and sand, the whole being passed through a sieve with a ^-inch mesh. The soil is pressed but lightly down ; then the cuttings are inserted as thickly as possible without undue overcrowding (from six to ten in a pot is a good number), and when all put in they receive a thorough watering. The pots are watered on the bench and when drained placed in one of the close cases on the bed of Cocoa-nut fibre. This precaution is neces- sary in order to prevent damping; otherwise if watered in the case and allowed to stand there the atmosphere might get too surcharged with moisture for success to be the result. The after treatment consists in taking off the lights each morning to examine the cuttings, removing at the same time anything decaying. Water and shade when necessary, as cuttings of so succulent a character are very sensitive as regards DRACAENAS. Amongst the heat-requiring species and varieties of Dracaena are to be found some of the most beautiful and distinct variegated plants in culti- vation, alike remarkable for the charming colour- ing of their foliage and the elegance of their habit; they are equally adapted for the warm conservatory or the greenhouse in the summer, or the numerous decorative purposes in rooms for which plants are now so extensively used. The narrow-leaved kinds are the most elegant, but some of those with massive broad foliage are very effective when associated with Ferns or flowering plants, and in these ways can be employed to the best advantage. All the Wakmeh section will bear a stove tempera- ture and are free growers, but do not progress at a rate to give them a weedy character ; they are easily propagated, but not being plants that break out side shoots, they do not afford material to make stock so quickly as many things do. They yield cuttings from the roots differently from most plants ; the feeding fibres proceed from a stout underground stem, thick and blunt at the ex- tremity, which extends downwards, soon reaching the bottoms of the pots. If 2 inches or 3 inches of these stems are cut off and put points upwards in small pots, they will soon push growth, and, form- ing leaves, make plants similar in every way to such as are the result of striking the tops of the plants, which latter, if taken off with four or five leaves, root in a warm close atmosphere in a few weeks ; but the most expeditious mode of in- creasing DracEenas is to take the stems of any old plants that have attained a considerable height, and in such condition have generally lost their lower leaves ; if these are divested of the roois and the soft portion of the top, as also all the leaves, and are laid down in a propagating frame where there is a good bottom heat, on a bed of open sandy peat, with about half an inch of similar soil over them, most of the eyes will start into growth, pushing up sucker-like shoots, which, as soon as they have made three or four leaves each, should be cut clean off from the old stem with the roots attached that the young growths will have formed ; they should be put singly in small pots in sandy peat and kept close and shaded for a week or two, when they will soon get established, and must then be inured to the full air of the house. Dracaenas are not liable to become drawn or weakly, but their leaves are handsomer and more enduring when they are grown with enough light and have a sufficient amount of air every day during summer. Plants raised in the above way early in spring will, if kept grow- ing in a brisk heat, be ready for moving into 4- inch pots by the end of June, after which con- tinue to treat them as before, giving plenty of water so long as the season of growth continues. Syringe freely overhead in the afternoons at the time the house is closed. A temperature in the night through the winter of 60° is sufficient ; in the spring increase the warmth day and night, and as soon as growth commences move them into pots 3 inches larger, treating as in the previous sum- mer. Additional root room as wanted must be given proportionate to the requirements of the different kinds grown ; such large growers as D. Shepherdi and Baptisti need much larger pots than the smaller sorts. The plants may be kept growing to any both dampness and strong smishine. In about a | required height so long as they retain their lower leaves. After the loss of these they possess little beauty, and should have their heads taken off and struck, and young stock raised from the stems. Three years is generally as long as the plants can be kept fairly furnished with bottom leaves. Com- paratively small examples in 6-inch or 8-inch pots are the most useful for ordinary decorative pur- poses. There are now an immense number of species and varieties, many differing very little from each other. Varieties.— The following is a selection of the best : D. Shepherdi.— One of the largest and strongest growers of the family ; the leaves are very long and broad, and of different shades of green, tinged with bronzy red. South Sea Islands. D. pulcherrima. -A medium-growing kind, with narrow leaves ; very graceful in appearance ; colour green, with red and white markings. South Sea Islands. D. Baptisti.— One of the finest of all the species. The leaves are large, and the general habit of the plant handsome. Ground colour, a peculiar shade of rich metallic green, edged with red suffused with white. South Sea Islands. D. Bausei. — A distinct and handsome variety of garden origin. It has stout, broad leaves, dark bronze, edged with crimson ; the stalks highly coloured. D. Rex. — A hybrid variety of distinct character ; stout in habit ; leaves bronzy green, streaked and edged with carmine-red. D. Guil- foylei. — Another very distinct and handsome kind; ground colour light green, striped with white, pink, and red. South Sea Islands. D. congesta (rubra). — A fine decorative variety of small habit ; leaves green, shaded on the edge with reddish green. A most useful kind. D. terminalis. — One of the oldest, but still one of the very best for general decorative purposes, grown more than all others put together for market, as it will stand much hard usage. Leaves bronzy green, edged and suffused with pale transparent red. East Indies. D. terminalis alba.— A form of the above with a good deal of white in the leaf marking. D. gracilis.— A small growing kind with slender, narrow leaves. A useful decorative plant. D. albicans. — A very distinct and handsome sort; leaves bright green, variegated with white. South Sea Islands. D. Fraseri. — This sort has very stout, broad short leaves ; the ground colour is very dark, with red variegation. A distinct and handsome kind. South Sea Islands. D. Fredeiici. — A hybrid variety ; dark bronzy green leaves, edged and veined with crimson. D. amboynensis. — Hand- some in habit, the lower portion of the leaves heavily edged with bright red. Amboyna. D. Princess Margaret. — Different in appearance from most others, medium in growth, midrib crimson, most of the leaf-blade white, striped with pale green suffused with pink. South Sea Islands. D. Earl of Derby. — Leaves long and broad, ground colour bright green, broadly edged with crimson ; leaf-stalks highly coloured. South Sea Islands. D. angusta. — A handsome small-growing kind ; leaves 1 inch wide, dark clouded green, shaded with bronzy red. South Sea Islands. D.superba. — A small-leaved hybrid variety ; leaves 12 inches long by 1 inch broad, bronzy green, edged with red. D. Mrs. BausL'. — A stout short-leaved variety, ground colour deep green, margined with bright crimson. D. Goldieana. — A most remarkable and distinct species ; the leaves are broad and pointed, greyish green ground colour, banded across with broad irregular markings of whitish grey alter- nating witli dark green. Tropical Africa. Insects. — Thrips, red spider, and aphides can be easily kept under by syringing. Should brown scale or mealy bug attack them, sponging is the best remedy. T. BAINES. Forcing Snowdrops. — It is a singular fact that the growth of Snowdrops is rather retarded than hastened by placing them in a high tempe- rature ; even very mild winters do not advance the blooming season perceptibly. Although this winter has been very free from' frost, I have fre- quently seen Snowdrops, when we have had se- vere weather, more forward at this date than this year. Last season, by way of experiment, I planted a quantity of Snowdrops and Aconite 38 THE GAEDEN [Jan. 19 1884, bulbs in the border of a Peach house, but I find that those outside are equally forward ; in fact, these hardy bulbs seem to need a spell of exposure to severe weather before they start freely into growth. My experience, indeed, of forcing hardy plants is, that when subjected to a very cool tem- perature for some time previous, they respond to heat much more readily than when such is not the case. — J. G. H. ORNAJIENTAL-LEAVED BEGONIAS. Allow me to add a few supplementary notes to Mr. Baines' remarks in last year's Garden (p. 548) regarding this beautiful class of plants. Con- cerning their propagation, I can safely say that success is greatest when the leaves are kept entire, and not cut into pieces as Mr. Baines directs. We proceed as follows : Leaves of a firm texture are selected, and the choicer kinds are laid flat on pans filled with sandy soil, and secured thereon by means of a few pegs. The leaf-stalk is buried in the soil, and the principal ribs are cut through with a knife at intervals of about an inch. From the cut portions buds are produced, just as when the leaf is cut up altogether, and in the case of some kinds one leaf will continue to push forth buds for a long time, till it finally decays. Those treated as just described are kept moderately close in the propagating house, but the commoner kinds we just lay on a bed of Cocoa-nut fibre, in which Palms and other fine-foliaged plants are plunged. The space between the pots is thus utilised, and the slight shade afforded by the plants overhead just suits the P.egonias, which do well, but, as a matter of course, cannot be so thoroughly de- pended upon as in the propagating case. Another method of propagation which proved to be very successful with me is to raise these Begonias from seed, of which if fertilised they produce plenty. Having three or four distinct varieties in flower at one time, I intercrossed them with each other, and sowed the seeds thus obtained in a few pots of sandy soil and placed them in the stove, where they soon germinated. From the minute cha- racter of the seeds they were sown on the surface of the soil, and covered only with a pane of glass, which was removed as soon as germination took place. Tlie small plants were pricked off when large enough and grew rapidly, so that they were soon placed in small pots. As the leaves began to develop themselves, there was seen to be great variety amongst them, some being variegated or marbled with white in different proportions, while in others the silvery tint overspread the whole surface. As these Begonias grew, it was interest- ing to watch the various changes in their colora- tion that took place. Thus some that were at first of a satiny white, after a time pushed forth leaves of a green ground colour, and the whole surface covered with minute spots ; then again as they grew larger the leaves in some cases would assume an appearance something like that of B. Rex. Besides varying so much in their markings, there was just the same difference in the ground colours of the leaves, the shades graduating from a dark brownish green to quite a light tint. This batch of seedling Begonias certainly afforded as great a variety as would be found in a moderate collection of named kinds. n. P. r.I'Jl.-Charrlng turf.—" M. L. W," (p. ii}) will not be able to do much at this ."-eason in the charring of turf, unless he has the sods under cover and dry, as the fire would have to be very strong to act on them. If, however, he has them free from wet, the charring is easy enough. If only a small quantity has to be done, the easiest way is to put the turves in a furnace, but if the bulk is great, time will be saved by piling them in a round, hollow heap, leaving cavities between them and a spac^in the middle to start and keep up the fire. As soon as this has gained strength, the turves should be covered with earth, in which some apertures should be made to let out the smoke, and keep up combustion in a slow manner in order that the sods may be charred and not burned. Although soil may be improved by add- ing to it a certain portion of such charred ma- terial, it will not do to use much of it in potting material for greenhouse plants. — S. D. Striking Petunias.— This is not the best season for striking Petunias unless the plants have been kept warmer than usual or than they require, as the growth is not likely to have been free enough to furnish cuttings in a sufficiently soft condition. I should prefer waiting a little longer, putting the plants in a temperature of about 50° at night, and setting them near the glass. So managed, in a few weeks they will yield cuttings that will strike under propagating glasses or in a propagating frame, if not too hot and confined, or in pans of sand and water, a method that is not nearly so much followed as it might be in the case of many things, especially where there not proper means at hand for pro- pagating. Cuttings of soft stock, such as Petunias, strike freely enough in ordinary propagating frames if these are not so dark, over-moist, and over-heated as they frequently are. — T. B. Ptychosperma singaporensls. — A handsome Palm, resembling both in habit and foliage the well-known Cocos Weddelliana, is growing at Kew under this name. 1 saw recently what appears to be the same plant in Mr. Bull's collection of Palms; and again in the Kew herbarium I saw specimens collected by Mr. Burbidge in Borneo which bear a very close re- semblance to the Kew plant. Mr. Burbidge's plant is a graceful-stemmed Palm, the stems being produced in tufts of about half-a-dozen, although the tallest is not more than 1 foot high. The rachis and sheath of the leaf are covered with a brown furfuraceous down. The plants at Kew and those in Mr. Bull's nursery have this same furfuraceous character in the foliage, and although there is but one stem to each plant, this stem re- semLles very closely the stems of the specimens from Borneo. The name Ptychosperma does not properly belong to these plants; according to the " Genera Plantarum," the genus Ilhopaloblaste is is their true position. This genus is composed of three or four Malayan Palms, all of which are graceful feathery-leaved plants, and likely to prove useful in gardens, although the name is not one likely to recommend itself to an Englishman's ears, — B. Joints for hot -'water pipes.— Kefercnce was made in The G.\rden recently to the burst- ing of the joints in hot-water pipes. I did not think that anyone else had been so unfortunately situated as I was some years ago, when in a range of four forcing houses I had three bur^ttd joints in one winter where iron fillings had been used to make the joints. I was so disheartened that winter that I have set my face against the use of iron joints ever since, and, except in the joints close to the boiler, I have not allowed one to be made in the garden here. Practically, I believe that iron joints are the best if properly made, but the work is sometimes placed in the hands of in- experienced men and then they fail. Although I have fait'h in a well-made iron joint, I have no reason to find fault with red lead. A large length of piping put down here in 1867, all with lead joints, is as sound now as it ever has been as far as is to be seen. It has not cost a penny for re- pair.5, but tlien the work was done by a thoroughly good man, and no doubt if iron joints were made with the same care they would answer equally well. The next opportunity I get I intend to give the india-rubber joints a fair trial ; it seems to me that they have not been used so extensively as they deserve to be. Quite lately I inspected a long length of piping that was entirely put to- gether with these joints, and not one was faulty, although they had been fixed ten years.— J. C. C. Imantophyllum leaf (U. J. S.).—T\\e Ijrown i>ii8- lulea on the leaf sent ai'c swollen cuiroiletl masses, tlie result of some injmiims attack, bnt whether from some insect which lias vanished, or from some funfius in an inci- pient state, or from a scald I do nut know. I can .see no- thing but the diseased cells, brown, swollen, corroded. I have often sent sucli examples to friends, but can get no light on the natiu-e of the disease.— O, W. S. Fuchsia Gustave Dore.— Although there are several Fuchsias with double white corollas of great merit, Gustave Dore beats them all as regards refinement of character. It is not so vigorous as some others, but it grows suCBciently strong to form a moderate-sized specimen in two years, and its habit is so good and its flowers so freely produced that we value it very highly for room decoration, as good examples of it may be had in C-inch pots. — J. C. C. Clematis coccinea.— " J. C. C.'s '' statement (p. 32) relative to this plant would lead me to suppose that his flowers were unusually pale, otherwise he would certainly not speak of them as by no means striking, for in a good variety the colour is very bright and effective. I say in a good variety, as the blossoms vary to a great ex- lent in colour, some being, in comparison with others, almost worthless. This Clematis forms a very pretty pot plant, one in the temperate house at Kew having been very effective during the last two summers. Regarding the shape of the flowers being different from that of other Clematises, I may say that they are a good dexl in the way of C. viorna, a very old Noith American kind that has purplish flowers.— Alpha. A NEW VEAR'13 WINDOW GARDEN. The admirable custom of placing beautiful ob- jects in the way of plants in windows is one of considerable antiquity. Painted flowers and otlier objects preceded the use of real plants ; still the use of the latter is of older date than has been generally supposed. Window gardening has taken such rapid strides and been so much improved in our days, that we are too apt to assume that our fathers were wholly ignorant of the art of adorn- ing their windows with the beauties either of Nature or art. It is, however, by no means need- ful to decry the past in order to appreciate the present, and that some of the past is well worthy of preservation the following example will show. In the centre of the window stood a large Lily of the Nile or white Arum in a tub with three fully expanded blooms and five other flower-spikes showing above the leaves. The latter were nume- rous, exceptionally fine, and without flaw or spot. On either side of this fine plant were one smaller one in a pot also in bloom. In front of these were two large plants of Christmas Roses in pots, likewise in flower, the blossoms rising high above the green leaves — evidently old leaves, though numerous and fresh looking. That was posilively all the garden in the window. It seems meagre on paper, but it was perfect to look upon. Almost severely classical in its simplicity, I have seldom seen a window more chastely or satisfactorily fur- nished. The plants, no doubt, owed something to the window curtains and other drapery ; the former were crimson, with muslin over them, and so disposed as to form a background, with a small opening in the centre for the fine Arums at the back. No doubt the drapery helped to throw up and out with greater distinctness the beautiful leaf and flower form of the Arums. The window was a low one, rising from within a few inches of tlie floor, and the Arum was so tall as to reach to within a foot or so of its summit. The Christ- mas Roses in front also seemed almost as if they had sprung up out of the ground. Final]}', though the window seemed fairly full, there was no over- crowding, the outline of each leaf and flower being distinctly seen, and there was obviously room enough between the foliage and blooms to admit suflicient light to render the room an useful place to work in or a comfortable lounge. The attempt to put too many good things into a limited space spoils more windows than it beautifies. D. T. Fistr. Alternanthera aurea nana— The follow- ing extract concerning this plant is taken from a letter which I have just received from an Ameri- can correspondent : " It is,"' he says, •' a sport from the old yellow variety, over which it has the ad- vantage of not having, like its parent, the pinkish taint which renders it often indistinct. This sport Jan. I'J, 1884.] THE GARDEN 39 is dwarf, and has pure yellow foliage. It has been well tested during the whole of last summer, and is considered to be a valuable acquisition for border and bedding purposes."— J. Sislet, Monplaisir, Lyons. Flower Garden. THE BEST ^THIONEMAS. These are mostly, and perhaps wholly, natives of much warmer climates than our own. We find them under cultivation to be variable both as re- gards hardiness and duration. They consist of about eight or ten species, all of which (from the mountain habitats of one or two of the more popular kinds) we have come to regard as alpines, which is, however, not strictly correct. Though all are handsome and worth cultivating, but few can be regarded as really perennial in the open air in this country, and fewer still as capable of enduring the rigours of our worst winters. Re- puted perennial species from countries washed by the Mediterranean, according to Sibthorp, prove but annual under cultivation, and certainly our experience confirms that fact. On the hardy cha- racter and duration of these charming little shrubs depend their value, for whilst they may be classed amongst gems in the way of rocli garden plants, if they cannot withstand exposure they are not likely to be valuable. It will be seen from the descriptive list given below that but few come up to this standard of hardiness, but fortunately these few include the best kinds. All are of a well-branched or shrubby habit, varying in stature from 2 inches to 18 inches ; the leaves are mostly fleshy, glaucous, sessile, entire, and somewhat linear ; their flowers are purple, ranging to a delicate rose or flesh colour, and produced in sum- mer in great quantities ; the branches assume a prostrate habit, and in one season the larger kinds will form bushes a foot across. It may be useful, in order to indicate allied genera, to mention that throughout this genus the f pecies have synonymous names largely authorised, as Iberis, Lepidium,aud Thlaspi. In order that a general idea may be gained of their form and habit, ^Ethionemas may be described as slender Candytufts with glaucous leaves and rosy flowers, rich in colour and in n ij m- bers abundant. Within a few years several un- familiar names have appeared in trade lists, a fact which at any rate shows that some attention is beiog paid to these miniature shrubs. Besides grandiflorum here figured, we see a variety of persicum called splendidum, also a difoliutn, pulchellum, and iberideum. In none of these names do we find that any new feature is indi- cated, and what or whence the varieties is not stated. The annual species are ^-E. saxatile, of which there are one or two varieties ; it comes from rocky habitats in the south of Euiope, height from 2 inches to 6 inches, tiowers in May and June, pale purple. jK. cristatum, a very dwarf plant ; height only 2 inches to 4 inches. Native of Syria ; the pods are crested. M. Buxbaumi, a pretty plant ; height 6 inches ; flowers small and purple. It comes from Cappadocia and Iberia, and has many synonyms, the present name being authorised by De Candolle. The one-seeded ^Kthionema (>E. monospermum). a Spanish bien- nial, is of a more herbaceous character and has more oval leaves than most forms. It flowers in mid- summer ; height 6 inches, flowers purple and some- what large. The following under suitable con- ditions are of perennial duration, viz., J3. gracile, a species with slender branches from Carniola ; flowers pale red or purple ; a shrub nearly a foot high. X. coridifolium, a Mount Lebanon species with Coris-like leaves and large rosy flowers ; one of the handsomest and hardiest ; height only from 3 inches to 6 inches. Very similar to this is -E. pulchellum. which, however, has smaller flowers and more glaucous leaves. If this and 2&. persicum are not identical, they are very nearly alike ; they belong to the more hardy sorts and the best for open-air cultivation. JE. membranaceum, having seed-pods with a pair of wing-like membranes, is a most tempting alpine from Mount Elweud, in Persia. It is a neat shrub with slender branches not more than 4 inches or 6 inches high ; the leaves are small and glaucous, and the flowers a lively rose colour freely produced in small clusters. J'], grandiflorum is very similar, but taller; its flowers are in large clusters and more elongated. Height 18 inches. It is quite a new kind and easily raised from seed. Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich, believes it be one of Boissier's plants; if so, it is pretty sure to be from Greece or Asia Minor. This from its extra size and larger bunches of flowers is perhaps the most showy of all. The blossoms are veined and of a pleasing rose colour, which is shown off to advantage by the glaucous foliage. A. stylosum, another native of Mount Lebanon, is easily recognised by its long style ; height 3 inches or 4 inches, and habit slender. The flowers are flesh-coloured and large. It will be seen that the species just named vary but little in outward appearance, and the figure here given may almost be considered typical of the genus. In order to enjoy the beauty of these small, but telling plants, under open-air cultiva- tion, special but simple treatment is required. I at any rate find that to be the best, though I have come across those who have been surprised that I should find anything diSicult connected with their cultivation. As a matter of fact, I lost more jSthionema fjrandljlorum, showing hahit of growth, plants than I should care to recount before I came to succeed with them. They not only make neater specimens, but more hardy growth when fully exposed to sunshine than when treated otherwise, and evidently their roots enjoy the warmth of such a position as well as warm, gritty, or somewhat dry loam. On rockwork where these conditions exist the plants are not only very floriferous, but they pass through our winters more bravely than when otherwise situated. After all it will be safest to keep up young stock by means either of cuttings rooted early in summer or seeds, By such management, not only can a finer display be made in the rock garden by planting numbers out after frost is over, but after mild winters there will be a large amount of bloom from two-year-old plants freely planted ; and even in the worst of weather it is probable that some will continue strong, and it may be added that is a result which I never realised when the plants were grown in moist quarters or shaded from the sun. Grown in pots, plunged in cold frames, and kept well up to the glass, neat specimens may be had in a year's time, and there is no difliculty in preserving them through the winter if kept dry- ish. It hardly need be said that plants thus grown should have the glass completely removed during summer, unless for that season the pots are plunged elsewhere in the open. A group of iEthionemas consisting of a dozen or twenty planted near dark-coloured stones on the rockery is charmingly effective. J. Wood. IRIS SUSLANA. I HAVE just read Professor Michael Foster's letter on this Iris with great interest. It is an axiom with me that whatever he says about Irises is right, and I should have held my hand if I had been sure that he would attend to the matter. I venture, however, to think that one point which is of considerable importance in a small garden has escaped his notice. My little piece of land, not quite an acre in extent, is nearly covered by the eye from end to end, and though Iris Susi- ana is a wonderful attraction in some promi- nent situations in the month of May, it is by no means so when it is covered up by a frame during the rest of the summer. The frame itself is an eyesore, and in my case would smother a multi- tude of Cape bulbs when they are just at their best. This led me more than anything else not to take kindly in the first instance to the idea of keeping Iris Susiana under a frame in the summer. Dr. Foster has all sorts of little retieats and winding places in his large garden where he can do what he likes. I also read in The Gaeden a short note of the late Mr. Thomas Williams, of Ormskirk, to the eiiect that perhaps the best way of treating this Iris would be to take it out of the ground, and to bake it during the summer. This idea at once helped me out of my difliculty, and I have acted on it regularly for some three or four years. In the year 18811 sent you a blossom which I am sure had been produced in this way, and you were good enough to call it a strange and enormous flower, of which you could not hope to give an idea. At any rate, I hope Professor Foster will come and judge for himself. He will soon be due in the Isle of Wight, and we are looking for his arrival with very great interest. I have many questions on which I wish to have more enlightenment from him ; but with regard to Iris Susiana, I am con- ceited enough to think that I can show him a plant which he will regard as satisfactory from every point of view. It will even surprise me if he has ever seen a better one, and that plant was kept in a tray full of green sand on the green- house shelf the whole of last summer. Two or three others were left in the ground under a frame at the same time. I therefore, without disputing in the least what he says about Iris Susiana, which I should not presume to do, cannot yet see that it is a wrong practice to lift it bodily out of the ground for a few months. It certainly answers with me, and when I have shown Dr. Foster, as I hope to do in the spring, five or six large plants of this Iris treated in different ways, I will go by his verdict. H. Ewbank. St, John's, Eyde. Wild Mignonette (Pieseda latea). — I send you a few sprays of a perennial Mignonette fresh gathered out-of-doors, which I find very use- ful for placing with flowers in vases. It has the property of growing in water and lasting for weeks in an ordinary room. The piece with a lighter- coloured green top shows how much it has grown in about a fortnight after it has been cut. It shows up well by lamp-light. The plant is quite hardy and flowers in long spikes, but is nearly scentless.— E. R. Melbouhne. Jasminum nudiflorum.— Anyone having vacant spaces on their house or other walls should furnish them with this Jasmine. We have had it flowering on both east and south aspects for a few weeks past, and it will continue in good con- dition for many weeks to come. It is very useful at this dull season of the year in a cut state when arranged with some suitable green material. Some shoots of it have, I notice, got intermixed with those of Cotoneaster, which forms a pleasing back- ground for them, the coral red berries of that charming wall plant contrasting well with the bright yellow blossoms of the Jasmine. — NOBTHUMBEIAN. 40 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. Rose Garden. THE EOSiEIAN'S YEAR-BOOK, 1881. This contains a photographic portrait of Mr. J. Mcintosh, of Dunevan, and is, as usual, full of matter interesting to rosarians. Its contents are : The Rose Election Tested by Actual Experi- ence ; The Battle of the Buds and the Stocks ; Old - fashioned Roses ; The Rose and National Rose Society in 1883 ; The Rose Weather of 188.S; Autumnal Roses ; and Roses on their own Roots, by Mr. J. Brown, Great Doods, Reigate. From this we extract the following: — As Roses on their own roots have to be struck from cuttings, that must be the point to start at. I have struck Roses in various ways, and at dif- ferent seasons of the year. Cuttings taken from forced Roses and struck in heat make very good plants, but I do not think they are so hardy as Roses struck by cool treatment ; moreover, it is not every amateur who has an opportunity of do- ing so. Those who strike in heat must pot oif when ready, and return them to the same or simi- lar quarters, and when established they must be hardened off by degrees, potted again in autumn, kept in cold frames during winter, and planted out in May in well-prepared soil, and kept well watered until they are well established. Of the va- rious modes of striking Roses, I much prefer the following : Take a frame or frames, according to the quantity required to be struck, place the frame on hard soil, and then fill in with well-prepared compost, composed of one half loam, and the other half in equal parts of leaf -mould and sand. The above compost should be made very firm, and about 6 inches in depth, well watered, and left a few days to settle, at the end of which time it will be ready to insert the cuttings ; the latter may be dibbled in about i inches between the rows, and 2 inches or .S inches in the rows. The best time for putting in the above cuttings is the last week in September, or about that time, according to circumstances. The cuttings that I have found to succeed best are half or two-thirds ripened shoots ; soft shoots invariably turn black and die. When struck by cool treatment, the shootsthatgrowafterthe firstflower- ing are generally in the right condition for cuttings ; they should be taken with a heel, as I have found them strike much better than straight shoots cut at the joint. Our American friends say they strike well without a heel, but that may possibly be in heat only, not in the above cool treatment ; I have struck them in heat without a heel, but prefer them with one. The cuttings should be made with a sharp knife, and inserted before they get dry ; they should be dibbled in and made very firm at the base, or they will not grow. Cuttings should be about 4 inches in length, leaving about an inch above the surface of the soil, and the lower two leaflets on the two upper leaves ; all eyes should be left on the base of the catting, as on that de- pends the future of the plant. I have invariably found about ninety per cent, to strike by the above treatment, and scarcely a cutting miss when proper cuttings could be procured. After the cut- tings have been planted, they should be kept close for a lime, but a little air must be admitted in mild weather, to prevent the leaflets damping off. The frame or frames must be covered up to exclude frost, or the cuttings will be lifted by its action, and much labour will be lost, as it they are lifted the majority will not strike. About the end of April or beginning of May the above cuttings will be ready to pot off ; they can be taken up with a ball, potted, and placed in a frame, and kept close for a time, hardened off by degrees, planted out in August, or kept in cold frames during the winter, and planted out in well- prepared soil in April or May, according to the mildness of the season, or convenience at hand. If they are not planted out in August, many of them will require larger pots, otherwise they will get potbound ; it so, they never take freely to the soil, as the ball gets dry; they then only exist, but do not grow. I well know that much has been written in favour of and also against Roses on their own roots. It has been said they are a long time before they are strong enough to grow show Roses. I have no doubt but Roses on the seeding Brier would be best for very heavy soils, but Roses will do well on their own roots in all ordinary soils if properly planted, and they do much better in light sandy soil, such as I have here, to grow show Roses on ; therefore, they are an advantage to those that are situated like my- self. In reference to the above Roses being a long time coming on, i.f.^ before they make strong plants, if any one will raise his own stocks, and treat cuttings and stocks alike, he will find the cuttings will give him the least trouble and best Roses, as, in general, cuttings of stocks have to be made, planted, and left for one year, to be taken up and planted for budding the second year, and, before Roses can be cut from budded plants, the grower has to wait about two years and seven months, whereas a good quantity of Roses can be cut the second year from Roses on their own roots ; and the third year they will be as strong as the majority of maidens budded on the stocks of the same age, at which time the Roses struck from the cutting of the same date will be well estab- lished in the majority of cases ; the maiden has to be transplanted, which weakens it considerably for the ensuing year ; therefore, it is five years be- fore the budded plant is established, i.e., to grow show Roses, as follows : First year the cutting, second year the budding, third year the maiden, fourth year the transplanted maiden, fifth year the established plant. Roses on their own roots are much safer in hard winters, as I have had plants killed down to the surface of the soil, start again vigorously in the following spring, making shoots during the summer from 5 feet to 7 feet in height in sandy soil. Plants here three years old are much stronger than maidens, many of them ha\-ing from three to six shoots, from 4 feet to 6 feet in height, whereas, in the majority of cases, the maiden has one to three shoots of from 1 foot to 3 feet, and then has to be transplanted, and by the end of another year, in most cases, they are less than when planted, whereas those in the mean- time on their own roots have been getting much stronger. I have no prej udice whatever against any Variety op stock, as it is well known that Roses do much better on a particular stock in cer- tain localities. Stocks are also jmr ei'cdtenfe ne- cessary for all new varieties, as, if propagated by cuttings, it would be a long time before a new variety could be sent out by thousands to the public. It is the old-established sorts that can be propagated by cuttings, but where one has only a few buds of a new or choice variety, he will pro- pagate it faster by budding if he has stocks at hand. Plants on their own roots can now be pro- cured almost in any quantities from the trade. If I were about to plant a new rosary, I should pro- cure all the Roses I could on their own roots ; they are also best for any person who requires a few dwarfs, i.e., if he does not understand them, viz., budded Koses, as I have witnessed many times Roses on their own roots flower freer here, and give more good Roses during the autumn than Roses on any stock which I possess, plants on the Manetti giving the least. It is not only my own plants that do so well on their own roots, but I must quote my much-esteemed friend, Mr. G. Baker, of Holmf els, Reigate, who has many on their own roots, and who has had better and more blooms from them than from any Roses in his garden. Al- though Koses on all stocks grow vigorously at Holmfels, the plants on their own roots have the best of it, and I can confidently say they are the healthiest plants in the garden. Varieties.— I will now give the names of the sorts grown here on their own roots. The follow- ink three grow weakly, but they are about the same strength as budded plants of the same age ; they are E. Y. Teas, Louis Van Houtte, Xaxier Olibo. When on their own roots you can with safety cut them down level with the surface of the soil, and they will then break up strong and reju- venate themselves again, making shoots 2 feet to 3 feet in length. The following varieties have done well : Abel Grand, Alfred Colomb, Annie Wood, Baroness Rothschild, Camille Bemardin, Charles Lefebvre, Comtesse dOxford, Due de Rohan, Dupuy Jamain, Dr. Andry, Duchesse de Caylus, Duke of Edinburgh, Duke of Wellington, Etienne Levet, Fisher Holmes, GeneralJacquemi- not, La France, Henri Ledechaux, John Hopper, Jules Margottin, Francjois Michelon, La Duchesse de Morny, Madame C. Crapelet, Madame Therese Levet, Madame Victor Verdier, Marechal Vaillant, Marguerite St. Amand, Marie Baumann, Marquise de Castellane, Marie Rady, Marie Finger, Paul Neron, Prince Camille de Rohan, Senateur Vaisse, Victor Verdier, Pierre Netting, Baron Gonella, Rev. H. D'Ombrain, Le Havre, Auguste Rigotard, Sir G. . Wolseley, Captain Christy, Duke of Con- naught, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Annie Lax- ton, Duchesse de Vallombrosa, Abel Carri^re, Mrs. Baker, Jlons. Noman, Madame Marie Verdier, Cheshunt Hybrid, Baron A. de Rothschild, Devi- enne Lamy, Madame Boutin, Madame Eugenie Verdier, and Emilie Hausburg. The following Teas have done well on their own roots : Gloire de Dijon, Madame Willermoz, Madame Lambard, alba rosea, Marie Van Houtte, Souvenir d'nn Ami, Catherine Mermet, Souvenir d'Elise Varden, Sou- venir de Paul Neron, Madame Camille, Devonien- sis, and Anna Olivier. Bose Souvenir de la Malmaison. — Mr. Muir's commendation of this grand old Rose (p. 17) is well-deserved, but when he says " as a spring, summer, and winter flowerer, it has nothing to re- commend it," he scarcely does it justice. In cool summers (which latterly have been the rule rather than the exception) and in a somewhat damp and sheltered situation, this Rose is not only one of the earliest, but also one of the most continuous and abundant of bloomers. Budded on the Manetti, and planted 2 inches below the bud, and grown as a dwarf, with scarcely any -pruning, it quickly becomes a dense bush, and produces a mass of bloom from June to November ; nor will any of the blooms be defective, unless injured by spring frosts, or the temperature and dryness of the summer must be greater than we have lately experienced. Thorough drainage must be secured. The most suitable soil is a sandy, gritty, loam, not very rich in vegetable manure ; on the con- trary, rather supply liquid manure when needed. The soil should be firm. By these means moderate growth and well-ripened shoots will be the result. — W. C. T. Orchids. TEMPERATURES FOR ORCHIDS. I suppose there is a right and a wrong tempera- ture for Orchids, but we appear to be all at sixes and sevens on the subject. While such growers as Messrs. Veitch and Williams continue to grow their warm Orchids in warm houses, and cool ones in cool houses, and to produce examples of health and flower that everybody praises, we find ama- teurs and others telling us the practice is all wrong. Now I have never met nor heard tell of a grower who successfully cultivated what are commonly called cool and warm" Orchids in the same house. There are some who claim to have treated their Vandas and the like on the cool system, but I have never found any of them grow- ing both sorts together if they could help it, but always iii separate divisions, and that speaks for itself. I pay no attention to records of minimum morning temperatures in winter. We can drop the temperature with impunity in the dark, short, and cold days with many things, but what one wants to know is the heat the plants are subjected to between sunrise and sunset, and more particu- larly between February and November. I am told that Dr. Paterson is not particular to a few degrees about this season in regard to Night temperature, but that if you go in among his warm Orchids at any time dur- ing the growing season you will find them en- joying an ordinary stove heat. I am further assured that the Doctor himself has never pretended to treat his plants in any other way Jan. 19, 1884.] THE GARDEN 41 in the summer season. Those who have read Humboldt and other travellers who have written accurately on the geographical distribution of plants have not to learn that the different zones of vegetation are very clearly defined. All writers agree that there are points of longitude and alti- tude at which different species begin and end — dis- appearing where the temperature becomes too high on the one side or too low on the other — and that there is a middle or mean point where they thrive best and attain their fullest development. It is not recorded that any species thrives equally well everywhere within the zone of its distribution. It seems to me, therefore, that it is the mean point cultivators should seek to discover and imi- tate, and the nearer they do that all experience tends to prove that the better they will succeed. But another point we have got to consider is that even those who provide separate divisions for their Orchids cannot even then give each species exactly the treatment it needs, but have to com- promise matters, and that is quite practicable with most things. Many of the so-called cool Orchids will endure, without hurt, a much lower temperature than it is needful to afford them, and others will endure a higher temperature in the same way, but between the two there is a mean that suits all very well and that is what the grower has to find ont. All the best cool Orchids, except the Disa grandiflora, I find succeed admirably in a temperature of from .50° minimum in winter to 80° or 85° in summer, with ample ventilation. Cosloygne cristata, Cym- bidiums, Odontoglossums Alexandrse and vexil- larium, Epidendrums, Cypripediums insigne and Maulei, and violaceum puactatum, Lycastes, Mas- devallias, may be named as typical cool species and varieties that mature their growth satisfac- torily and flower regularly in the above tempera- ture, while some few of those named will not do well in any other. But after all there is a pretty wide margin to come and go upon, and within its limits it is safe to try. It is just the same with the Warm Okchids. Some species may be treated regularly to a very high temperature and vice versa, comparatively, but there is a mean between the two at which all will succeed very fairly, while considerable liberties may be taken with many in winter as regards night temperature. At the same time it will be found, in the long run, that the nearer we imitate the conditions under which any species is found growing naturally the better we shall succeed. I observe that when any species of Orchid is placed in a too cool tempera- ture, it is later in ripening its bulbs and later in flowering every year, and that, vice versa, when the temperature is right the bulbs mature and the flowers come out at the same period annually. This is a test in the case of plants that make one growth annually like the Ccelogyne or the Odonto- glossum vexillarium, both of which with me do remarkably well together, and also with O. Alex- andria and Pescatorei, &c. J. S. W. SILVERDALE LODGE, SYDENHAM. This is one of those pleasant suburban villas that have become celebrated in the horticultural world through the love of their owners for Orchida- ceous plants. The houses are small in size and span-roofed, a style of construction well adapted for Orchids. I examined the Thal^nop- sids first. This house, being the warmest, is close to the stokehole —too close in fact, as one day, not more than twelve months ago, the stokehole, which had a wooden roof, took fire, and burned down part of the house in question, destroying most of the plants. There is now, however, no trace of the accident ; indeed, more healthy or vigorous Moth Orchids could not be. P. Schil- leriana has leaves 16 inches long by 4J inches broad, and is producing great branched spikes, as are likewise handsome plants of P. amabilis. There is also a fine group of P. speciosa; judging from one handsome plant of this which is showing flower, it seems to be a variety of, or at least al lied to P. Luddemanniana. P. rosea tricuspis is in all respects a much more desirable form than the normal species. A plant of it now in flower had been in that state during the last nine months, the flowers are very rich in colour, and the leaves of a lovely deep green. P. Stuartiana seems to be very free in growth. Of this many of the varieties are distinct and handsome, although if we take it for all in all, it is not the best nor second best of this charming family. Vanda Sanderiana is making satisfactory development, and just forming roots. It occupies, as it ought to do, a prominent position in the house. A good plant of Renanthera Lowi is suspended from the roof along with Sander's Vanda. ThrLxpermum Berkeleyi showing flower is also noteworthy. In this house, the temperature of which is kept at about 65°, the long slender stems of Asparagus plumosus trained amongst the Orchids has an excellent effect. Another compartment kept about 5° lower con- tains some fine plants. Here is a large handsome specimen of Cypripedium Sedeni, and a quantity of C. Spicerianum, the last named being planted in ordinary calcareous loam, in which they seem to luxuriate. More than one house is set- apart for the culture of Cattleyas, and remarkably well they look. The ventilation is arranged very much in the same way as in our own houses, and as far as I could judge, both temperature and atmo- spheric conditions are also about similar to those which I endeavour to maintain. It would not, how- ever, be sate to give our houses quite so much air, as we are much more exposed to the north and east than those at Sydenham are. Mr. Cobb is justly proud of his fine plants of Lailia ele- gans, which, though recently imported, are mak- ing very fine growths. The same may also be said of L. purpurata, the growths of' which are very fine, as are likewise those of numerous fine plants of Cattleya Mendelli. C. Gaskelliana is not so highly esteemed as some others. In an- other house, in which the temperature is kept at from 50° to 55°, the principal object of interest is a group of Odontoglossum vexillarium, well grown, clean, and free from spots or decay. Onoidium Weltoni is flowering here, and a plant of Cym- bidium Lowianum has developed fonr spikes, on which there are, in the aggregate, seventy-two flowers. A fine form of Odontoglossum Rossi majus is in flower near the glass. Few plants are more pleas- ing to me than the sweetly perfumed Oncidium chierophorum, with its charming spikes drooping from the plants. Lailia albida and L. anceps are in flower, both in quantity and variety, while a noteworthy feature is a head of flowers on a plant of Masdevallia tovarensis, six being open at once. Vanda Boxalli Lobbiana is certainly a fine, bright- coloured form of this species. The cool houses are in no way inferior to the others as far as interest is concerned, and the plants are equally well cultivated. Odontoglos- sum Edwardi has flowered well here. This dis- tinct and fine species should be in every collec- tion, its violet-coloured flowers, so different from any other, being sure to please. The plants of it here are now growing freely, and promise to flower freely in March. O. coronarium flowers satisfactorily in the cool house in boat-looking teak rafts ; but it must also be allowed to push its young growths over the end of the basket or raft. Galeandra Devoniana, now in flower, is a distinct and valuable Orchid for blooming this season. In a house about 5° warmer than the coolest com- partment I observed a fine lot of Cattleya citrina in pans. This distinct species, with its massive golden flowers, is again getting scarce. Another good importation of it would sell well. J. Douglas. At Laurie Park, the residence of Mr. Augustus Sillem, there is also a choice and very varied col- lection of Orchids, under the care of Mr. Billiald, who seems to take special delight in growing and flowering Orchids that have been proved to be difficult to cultivate. Some two years ago a successful importation of Phajus tuberculosus was received from Madagascar, and most of the principal trade and private growers purchased plants, but few could claim even a fair measare o£ success in their culture. Six small plants, how- ever, placed in the hands of Mr. Billiald have done so well that three of them are producing fine spikes, and two others are also succeeding ; they are growing in a temperature of from 65° to 68° in damp Sphagnum. Cypripedium Haynaldianum in the same house is flowering freely. It is a pale form of C. Lowi, and very handsome ; while the charming little C. Schlimi is also flowering well. Cattleya superba, close to the roof in baskets, grows and flov/ers strongly year after year. A few growths of Galeandra Devoniana were crowned with handsome flowers, one variety being particu- larly flne. In the Cattleya house departments the finest of all the forms of L;clia anceps was in flower, viz., Dawsoni. Barkerias, too, are a credit to their cultivator. Of B. Skinneri there is a very fine spike, while a quantity of Lselia acuminata, flowering freely, is very valuable at this season ; the pale pink flowers, with a dark base to the lip, being excellent in a cut state. Masdevallia leon- toglossa will flower in a few days. It is a distinct- looking species, with thick coriaceous foliage. The plant of it here is a large one, and although the result of nearly twenty years' growth, is only just showing flower for the first time. The Odontoglossums, in the cool house, are in no way behind the others, and even here some new or little-known subjects are well managed. Nanodes Medusa; had made two very strong growths, each of them being furnished with two fine flowers ; the dark maroon - purple lip, delicately fringed, gives the flower a quaint and even wierd appear- ance. Of Oncidium superbiens, or .Tsmulum, there is here a grand spike several feet in length, carrying many brown and pale yellow flowers. It is of the O. serratum type, and is well worthy of a place in the cool house. J. Douglas. POTTING CATTLEYAS. Let it not go forth that it is good practice to pot up freshly-imported Cattleyas as soon as received. On the contrary, no sounder advice could be given than that which directs the crocking into the smallest pots or baskets they can be got into. Cattleyas, and, indeed, all other freshly-imported epiphytal Orchids, as soon as they are put into the Orchid house, as such advice holds good in all cases. Orchids are frequently imported when there seems to the importers to be a demand for them, and from this and many other reasons they often arrive long before the growing season. In such cases, I consider it would not be consistent with common sense to pot them up, and in every other case, even when they are got over just at the growing season, they are beneflted by being crocked up, if only for a fortnight. I am not saying that the plants at Silverdale Lodge are not treated as stated, or that the condition of those plants leave anything to be desired, but the healthy houses cleverly planned by Mr. Walter Cobb, and complete in every detail, are not to be found every- where ; neither has every collection the supervision of one who knows Orchids so well as he does, nor the advantage of such judgment as that which prompts him to buy only good, sound-eyed pieces. At Silverdale Lodge, too, Mrs. Cobb takes great interest in the Orchids, and is as untiring in her watchfulness for their welfare as her husband. I take it that instruction in the public press on any nice point emanating from such a source can only apply to those who are as happily situated. Unfortunately, most amateurs commence, and even continue. Orchid growing in old houses not built for the purpose and defective in many points (which it should be our duty to teach them to remedy), and it is for such as they that writers should frame their remarks, as Mr. Douglas (who has a clear perception of the general principles of Orchid culture) invari- ably does. Many amateurs cannot afford to buy the best pieces of imported Orchids, and many gardeners only grow them on sufferance, and con- sequently get only the poorer pieces, and such as can only be greatly injured by being potted up at once. To such, too, the advice to place the freshly imported plants on shingle on the stage is not good. In many houses the heat from the hot. 42 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. water pipes is continually drying the stage and its covering, and necessitating frequent moisten- ings, which as often cause rapid falls in the tem- perature of the material on which the plants rest in a manner which cannot fail to be injurious to them. If the plants are worth haying, they are each worth crocking up at ouce into separate pots (unless very small, in which case several can be put together) or baskets where they may be plumped up and remain until they start into growth, and no other coarse can be advised which will benefit beginners and not injure the adept. Harron'-on-the-EUl. James O'Bhien, Varieties of Calanthe Veitohii.— Of this popular Orchid there are three distinct forms, and these with us are unaffected by either shade or sunshine. I should say that Mr. Harris at Single- ton (p. 13) has only one form, but whether the best of the tliree does not transpire. The ordinary pale form of C. Veitchi and the more richly coloured C. Veitchi superba throw up long arch- ing spikes of bloom, and we have also an erect and very compact pale-flowered variety. The bulbs of C. Veitchi superba are the least con- tracted near the centre. — W. I. Oattleya Percivaliana.— I send you a flower of this Cattleya ; it is not a large one. and I merely send it to supplement the very just remarks in your last issue in reference to this Cattleya. It is not only a very fine kind, coming in at this season, but it must be a very free-flowering variety. This flower is from a bulb not over L'.l inches long and proportionately thin. — W. Mac'- DONALD, Woodlands House, Perth. Kindly allow me to say a word in refer- ence to " W. G.'s" assertion (p. 13) that this plant has been the object of too much quibbling, and also of considerable bias. This may or may not be the case, but the real question at issue in what I may call the Cattleya Percivaliana discus- sion really lies deeper than the mere name or quality of the plant itself. As a matter of fact, there was the far greater principle of trade mora- lity involved in the case, and this Cattleya merely served as the peg on which the argument was hung.— F. W. B. I have abused this Cattleya for a long time, judging its merits from poor varieties, which are sure to crop up among all imported Orchids, but the other day I was at Southport, andsaw the world-famed collection of Mr. I'ercival. He in- troduced me to a Cattleya just in flower, and quietly asked me its name. I confessed I did not know it ; he then told me it was Cattleya Percivali- ana. It was a most beautiful form, with a lip of intense purple-crimson, slightly margined with white. The sepals and petals were rosy white. There is, I believe, yet a great future for this hitherto much-abused plant. — Justicia. Orchids at Tlie Hall, Stamford Hill.— In a large collection of Orchids such as this is there is always something to attract one's atten- tion. The principal feature is the large cool Orchid house, which is 100 feet long, and contains about 2000 Odontoglossums, besides a well-grown group of Masdevallia?. In Masdevallia ignea superba I noticed a peculiarity in the way in which the roots are produced up the stems of the growths. Mr. Beckett's variety is a very fine one. Odontoglossum coronarium is doing well in several collections, and here the variety miniatum is making very fine growth near the glass roof. This fine species does best when the growths are allowed to push beyond the raft containing the moist peat and sphagnum in which the plant is growing. Maxillaria grandiflora is making good growths in the coolest house. This is a plant that should be grown in every collection of cool Orchids. In the Cattleya house large pans of Trichopilia suavis are doing well hung up close to the glass. This is a charming plant when in flower, and one which is seldom seen doing better than it is here. Lrelia flava is also making good flowering growths. In flower in the Mexican house are nice plants of Odontoglossum Rossi majus, a handsome Cypripe- diam viUosum, Lycaste Skinneri in good form, the pretty Oncidium cheirophorum, and the brilliant Sophronitis grandiflora. Dendrobium Dearei is in flower, growing in a temperature of 65°. Mr. Bockett leaves this place in March, when most likely it will be built upon.— J. Douglas. GLAZED POTS. Me. Thomson's remarks (p. 13) on the use of these are in accord with conclusions I had come to a good many years ago, both as to glazed pots and the mistake generally existent in supposing that soft, porous pots are more conducive to the health of plants than such as are hard burnt. One of the first, and, as impressed upon me, most im- portant things in connection with the culture of plants in pots was to see that I never by any means put a plant into a pot that was hard burnt, unless I wanted to kill it. Such were the terms in which the injunction was conveyed. If one ventured to ask for what reason should the pots be of a porous character, the usual answer was to extract superabundant moisture from the soil, and also to admit the drying influence of the air to act on the soil and roots. When living in a part of the country where almost every cottager's window was occupied by plants growing in a way that left no doubts about their being quite satisfied with the pots in which their roots were confined, I observed they were of every conceivable description, from teapots that had lost part of their spouts to mugs devoid of handles. Shaping my course in accordance with this view, I ceased to use pots of the compara- tively lighter burnt character, and frequently took what had been rejected by others, provided they were not unshapely, and in ordering any to be especially made, as, in large sizes, I often had a ne- cessity fordoing, I always afterwards stipulated for their being thoroughly well burnt, as wellas thicker than usual. To still further satisfy myself in the matter, I got the manufacturer with whom I dealt to make me a few ordinary shaped pots of several sizes, and to glaze them on the outside. They were of a moderately light brown colour, and had a very nice appearance. I tried different plants in them, both hard and soft-wooded, such as Azaleas, Epacrises, Ixoras, Gardenias, Pelargoniums, Fuch- sias, and others, with just the result I had ex- pected, viz., that the plants in them grew as freely as they did in the pots which I had in general use. It is now aver twenty years since I had these glazed pots, and should undoubtedly have adopted them altogether had it not been for their price, which in my case was much more than Mr. Thomson speaks of, and the difliculty of getting what was needed made exceptionally in this way. The idea about pots that are made in such a manner as to leave the material of which they are composed in an open condition, so that it will absorb a maximum amount of water from the soil which they contain, or permit of air reaching or acting upon the roots, is visionary in the extreme. If there is not sufficient egress for the super- abundant water which is given in the ordinary way, or that reaches the soil by rain when in the open air, woe betide the plants whose roots are so placed ; and the same holds good about the action of air upon the roots through the sides of the pots. One objection to pots capable of absorbing so much moisture is their greater disposition to get coated with green mould, that not only makes them look unsightly, but which frequently has a tendency to spread over the surface of the soil within them, where its presence does much harm. There is a considera.ble difference in the character of the clay used in the construction of pots, as to its greater or less ability to become affected in this way, but more is owing to the manner in which the pots are made. When I lived in a part where extra finished pots were made, I always used these ; the process they undergo is, that after being turned into shape and subjected to the usual drying before being set in the kiln to burn, when only partially dried they are again put on the tables and re-turned ; this operation solidifies them and leaves the surface quite smooth, and much less inclined to the production of mould than when rough, and when it does affect them it is a great deal easier to wash off. In the matter of colour the ordinary red garden pot has little to recom- mend it. The glazing could be done in a good many different shades, all preferable to red. A conservatory with the plants in pots of a par- tridge-brown shade would look very different from the red now used. T. B. Garden Flora. PLATE 423. BESSERA ELEGANS. One of the most satisfactory results of the great improvement that has been recently brought about in the style of outdoor gardening is the large share of attention that is now devoted to the smallest of plants that are likely subjects for the rock garden or the herbaceous border. We have happily now got over the stage at which gaudy display and mere size were supposed to be the acme of perfection in gardening, and have arrived at that in which beauty in any form is admissible. The pretty little plant, of which the annexed is a representation, belongs to the class of lost and recovered plants. Over forty years ago that greatest of bulb cultivators. Dean Her- bert, expressed his delight at possessing plants of it, and Lindley looked up information on the cul- tural requirements of what was to him a beauti- ful little plant, but apparently then difficult to keep for any length of time. We know the secret of its cultivation now, and the plate i^ sufficient to show its beauty, so that we need not fear again losing the plant from our collections. Mr. Horsman has proved that at Colchester it is perfectly hardy, and that it grows and flowers freely in an open border along with its companion Milla biflora, also a native of the hills of Mexico. He says, " In pots this Bessera shows signs of becoming drawn. I am inclined to think that the open border is the most suitable position for it. It is worthy of note that the bulbs in the open border are more advanced in growth than those potted and kept in a cool vinery," A light, rich, stony soil, in a sheltered position, where during winter too much rain cannot interfere with its rest, seems to be essential to the welfare of this plant out-of-doors; while if pot culture ispreferred, a cold frame, loamy soil, and rest during winter are all that are required. Deep planting, in an open, sweet, well-drained soil, with a southern aspect, and, if possible, a wall against which the bulbs can nestle for warmth in winter, are con- ditions under which most of the hardier bulbs will thrive. The system of taking them up and drying them during winter is, so far as bulbs are con- cerned, a questionable practice, which happily is be- coming one of the past Many of our most successful bulbgrowersare in favour of the let-alone plan for all bulbs.planted out-of-doors, and protected from ex- cessive cold and wet. We have, however, still much to learn on the cultural requirements of many choice bulbous plants. Bessera elegans is apparently a somewhat variable plant, some of the specimens seen being much longer in the tube and thinner in the flower- stalk and pedicels than others, The representa- tion of it in the Botanical lietjister has been made from an unusually robust variety, the umbel being larger, pedicels thicker, and flowers shorter and less graceful than those from which the plate ' Drawn in Jli". "Ware's Nursery, Tottenham, July 20, Jan. 19, 1884.] THE GARDEN 43 here was made. The flower-spikes developed in Sep- tember last were much strooger than those seen in July, some of the former having as many as fifteen flowers in an umbel, most of which were open at the same time. The flowering period for this plant appears to extend from July to November, so that a large patch of it would be gay with flowers for two or three months, should the weather be favourable. On strong plants the leaves are 2 feet in length, very narrow, and furrowed on the upper side. Kach bulb bears a pair of leaves and a flower-scape about 2 feet long, bearing an umbel of from six to fifteen flowers, which are bright red on the outside and paler inside, with the margin and midrib of each segment of the same colour as the outside. The stamens are ex- serted some distance beyond the tube, and are united by their anthers, which are blue when the flower first opens, becoming yellow with age, Pharium fistulosum (figured in the Botanical Register) is but a variety of Cessera elegans. In Paxton's " Dictionary " I find the name B. Her- berti, but I am unable to find any record of the plant to which this name has been given ; it is most likely a garden name for the plant under notice. Bessera elegans is the only species of the genus known, and is, as has just been stated, a native of Mexico, whence it has been imported in quantity by several nurserymen. B. SEASONABLE WORK. FLOKAL DECORATIONS. An effective arrangement may be made with the following subjects to be had now, selecting as the receptacle for them a moderate-sized trumpet vase. Cut three or more of the showy headset Poinsettia and five or six spikes or Calanthe vestita rosea ; intersperse freely with the former fronds of Maiden-hair Fern ; then let the spikes of the Ca- lanthe be inserted sutficieutly long in the stem to stand well above the showy bracts of the Poin- settia. To an arrangement of this kind we once added a few blooms of a bright scarlet seedling perpetual Carnation, and perchance a single one (even these are not to be despised), and one bloom only of the Amazonian Lily, and a pleasing change for the dull days of winter was the result. Neither the Poinsettia nor the Calanthe would have lasted much longer on the plants; therefore advantage was taken to make the most of them. For another rather small vase of the same form we selected developed trusses of Early Roman and Paper- white Narcissi, and three or four spikes of the white Roman Hyacinth, each with their own foliage, taking care to have a good length of stem, so that when arranged they should not look crowded. This gave another distinct grouping. In a some- what shallow vase or bowl a few trusses of the single forms of Chinese Primrose will look well, using two or three distinct colours and their own foliage. A vernal tinge to this may be given if desired by adding a tew Snowdrops or Violets. In our opinion, the single forms of Chinese Primula are far better and more effective in a cut state than the double ones. The latter, however, may perhaps be a trifle more durable, which in packing flowers to send a distance is certainly a considera- tion. For specimen glasses for the dinner-table. Camellias will now be extremely useful. We generally contrive to cut these with sufficient stem to hold them safely in the glass. In this way they last a good time. Sometimes I hey are disposed to drop from the stem ; when this is the case, a little gum arable in solution will hold them together. This is preferable to wire, which soon leaves a deposit on the glass. When from any cause glass vases happen to become discoloured or furred, a weak solution of hydrochloric acid will easily remove the stain, a better plan than undue rub- bing, thereby endangering the glass. FLOWER GARDEN. High-keeping is certainly most desirable at this dull season of the year ; therefore lawns should be kept clear of leaves and worm- casts by frequent rolling and sweeping ; walks should be cleared of Moss and weeds by turn- ing, and, where necessary, re-gravelling. The best of all walk preservers is the roller ; when this is used freely, weeds and Moss have a hard time of it, and firm walks are the result. In the event of frosty weather setting in, plenty of work may be found in carting out soils and manures to spots where required, throwing together leaf heaps, and burning up prunings or other rubbish, the ashes of which form a valuable manure for any crop. From shrubberies clear all leaves likely to blow about and cause untidiness. Where pos- sible, without injuring the roots, preference is given to forking them in, but before doing this the plants are regulated as to space, either by thinning out and replanting them in other posi- tions, or else by cutting out straggling growths, so as to keep each plant from injuring its neigh- bour. The margins of turf are then cut, and any vacant ground in front furnished either with hardy bulbs or spring flowering plants, such as Wallflowers, Forget-me-nots, Polyanthuses, Prim- roses, and similar plants. In forming new beds for shrub planting the ground should be trenched as deeply as the nature of the soil will allow; plenty of decayed manure should be worked into it, and for those beds that are intended for what are generally termed American plants, ie.. Aza- leas, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, &c., peat soil is desirable, but by no means essential, as they do almost equally well in pure loam, provided it is not too heavy and is free from chalk, which seems to be rank poison to American shrubs and Coni- fers, and their growth should never be attempted in soil of this character. See that the plants are not buried deeper than they were previous to removal, and also that the soil is well worked in and consolidated about the roots. These pre- cautions may seem of little moment, but they make all the difference between the bad or well- doing of the plants. INDOOR PLANTS. Forced shrubs.— There is much difference in the result which follows the forcing of hardy shrubs consequent on the more or less matured condition of the preceding season's growth, and in this a good deal depends on the soil and posi- tion in which the plants to be forced have been grown. Where much of this kind of stock is re- quired, it is well to select a place wherein to grow them that is best calculated to insure the requisite conditions, and if the natural soil is not of a cha- racter such as to suit them, soil should be pre- pared. Heavy, tenacious ground, where the roots of plants grown in it are usually deficient in quan- tity and of a long, straggling description, is not well adapted for the preparation of shrubs for forcing, as they take up badly ; whereas if the soil is moderately light and free, most of the roots can be preserved, and in addition the plants in soil of this character are gene- rally much more compact and better furnished with bloom-buds than those in stiff ground. In most gardens suitable material for the purpose can be found in the old potting soil ; this ordinarily consists of a mixture of loam, peat and vege- table mould with sufficient sand, and if an open position facing the south exposed to full sunshine is available, a stock of such things as Viburnums, Azalea mollis, A. amcena, double-flowered Plums, Lilacs, Deutzias, Andromedas, Laurustinus, Rho- dodendrons, and Kalmia latifolia may be grown. In parts of the kingdom where this last-named shrub flowers it is one of the most beautiful of all hardy plants. Where a sufficiently large piece of ground devoted to this purpose exists so that the plants can be prepared by frequent trans- planting, the effect of which is to induce a close compact habit with a disposition to form plenty of bloom, it will be found to be a great as- sistance in providing a continuous supply of forced flowers through the winter and spring. Gardenias. — There are few, if any, flowers held in greater estimation or that are more diffi- cult to produce during the depth of winter than Gardenias, for even where there is a large stock that have been especially prepared for blooming at this season, and with plenty of heat at com- mand, they open very slowly without sun. The best means in order to have these flowers in winter is to get the crop of buds well forward in autumn, to keep the plants with their heads close up to the glass in a light house where there is a good supply of heat at command, being careful not to give too much water at the roots, or to keep over much moisture in the atmosphere, and not to use bottom-heat, as any of these conditions are sure to cause the buds to fall off a little before they should open. G. citriodora deserves a place wherever delicately-scented flowers are liked ; small and in appearance unlike others of the family, it is much easier to have it in bloom through the winter months where there is sufficient heat to induce the flowers to open ; it takes up very little room and is a profuse bloomer. BouGAiNViLLEA GLABRA. — This, the freest flowering and most easily managed of the Bougainvilleas, can be had in bloom early if plants with well ripened wood are at hand. Where they have been dried off so as to cause the leaves in a great measure to fall, the plants may be cut in, removing the small shoots that are too weak to produce flowering growths, and shortening to a convenient length the strongest. After this, if the ball of earth is very dry, it will be best to soak it for several hours in a vessel of tepid water large enough to admit of the ball being covered. This Bougainvillea requires plenty of root room ; if too much confined, the quantity of flowers will be proportionately limited ; consequently, if larger pots are needed, they should be given before the plants are started, but in this case there must not be any disturbance of the roots. Where no pot- ting is required manure water should be given as soon as growth has fairly commenced. A brisk heat is necessary to get it to move freely at this early season, but with 65° in the night and a rise by day proportionate with the weather it will be in flower in about ten weeks, and when started at this time and kept going in a temperature as above indicated, it will bloom three times before the season for again reiting it will have arrived. Ali.amandas. — The earliest rested of these may now be started. It is best to cut them well in, removing all the shoots that have not been fully ripened up. In the case of young examples in comparatively small pots they should have more room at once, seeing that the balls are thoroughly soaked through beforehand ; otherwise difficulty will be found in getting the soil moistened after- wards ; if the specimens are old and the soil in the pots is exhausted, they should be half shaken out and potted in good loam well enriched with rotten manure ; at the same time the plants ought to be cut well in, and if they are to be grown on trellises these should be fastened to the pots at once and the plants trained to them. Ctperus alternifolius. — The variegated form of this plant is usually liked the best, but the green kind is also worth growing, although not so showy. Both are most useful when in small pots— fi inches or 7 inches in diameter. The present is a good time for dividing any that have got too large, turning them out of the pots, separat- ing them so as to leave two or three crowns to each. The variegated sort generally keeps its colour best when grown in loam. The plants, as soon as they begin to grow, should be kept well up to the light, as this also tends to preserve the variegation and keeps them stouter. Amarvllids. — Where a sufficient stock of these is cultivated, and their growth was completed early so as to admit of their being put to rest in good time, a portion may now be started, as by regulating the period of growth and rest, they may be had in at almost any time. They will hear a brisk heat, and if the bulbs are strong they will seldom fail to flower. Give the soil a good soak- 44 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884 ing. This is earlier than it woulJ be advisable to start the main stock, but it a few be put in heat at a time they will give a succession, and the earliest flowered portioo will come in when flowers are not too plentiful. ORCHIDS. East Indian house.— Let the ventilators in this house be closed early on sunny days so as to diminish the amount of fire-heat and thus benefit the plants. In all Orchid houses it is well to have ventilators in the walls just opposite the hot-water pipes, and these should be open every night in mild weather, and even on frosty nights if the air is calm. The air gets heated as it passes over the pipes, and thus circulates amongst the plants night and day. If the temperature is up to G.5° at daybreak in the morning, the top ventilators should be opened at once if the weather is mild, but only to the smallest extent ; so much as to cause the temperature to fall ■would be too much. If there is a sharp frost, better not admit air until the sun rises suffi- ciently to raise the temperature a few degrees. No time should now be lost in getting all the re- potting of Saccolabiums, Angrnecums, and other plants of that character done. The pots should be half full of drainage, and the potting ma- terial should be clean Sphagnum. We use well dried material, mixing it with crocks and char- coal and finishing off the tops with live, clean Sphagnum cut up with a knife. The small growing Angr.«cum3 succeed better in pans or baskets than in pots. All the large growing species, such as A. eburneum and A. sesquipedale, succeed best in pots, and large plants of them form noble orna- ments to this house in winter. The first named is not so much grown as it ought to be, but large specimens in bloom cannot fail to please. The pretty little A. oitratum is most floriferous when suspended from the rafters, and cultivated either in shallow pans or baskets, as are also A. EUisi and the form of it called A. articulatum. These do best suspended in quite the warmest part of the house. ^Vith the exception of A. falcatum, all of them require plenty of heat. We do not put any water in the evaporating troughs until a month or six weeks later than this ; we rather depend for moisture from water sprinkled on paths or stages. The evaporating troughs filled with water form an important aid to culture when the plants are in full growth. Cattlkya house.— As regards the best time to repot certain occupants of this house, a very successful Orchid grower stated the other clay that his plan was to begin as soon as he could after the new year with the East India house, and that he was usually forward enough to pot the plants in the Cattleya house in February. Some Aerides in this house as well as Vandas are now beginning to make new roots, and that being the case no time should be lost in repotting them if they need it. All the Vanda tricolor section re- quire to be potted now, and Aerides Fieldingi, A. Lindleyanum, A. crispum, &c., require similar treatment. We do not pot any of these annually unless it is seen that the potting material about the roots is rotten and requires removing. In re- potting take care not to injure the roots. In arranging the plants see that those that have a tendency to be shy bloomers are placed in the lightest part of the house and as near the glass as possible. Some are better in the warmest end ; others prefer a cool position. We would place Cattleya gigas, Dowiana, lobata, &c., at the warmest end and near the glass, while such plants as L:Elia majalis, acuminata, autum- nalis, &c., should be placed in the coolest parts — the first named near the glass and well exposed to the sun. Dendrobiums of the tall-growing type, such as D. Dalhousianum, nobile, thyrsiflorum, &c., and also Vandas and Anguloas, may be further from the glass ; the smaller-growing Den- drobiums may be suspended in baskets or in pans from the roof ; 1). crassinode, Wardianum, and all the pendulous growing species succeed best and look best in that way, while the dwarf growing upright section, of which D. Bensoniie, Parishi, albo-sanguineum, and others are examples, make the best and most sturdy growths in that position. Of course, when in flower they may be arranged on the stage nearer the eye, and there, too, the flowers last longer than near the glass. One of the best of Mexican Orchids is the charming Odonto- glossum citrosmum ; this should still be kept as dry as possible at the roots, so much so as to cause the back bulbs to shrivel. Thus treated, it makes strong, healthy growth next season. On the other hand, 0. Phaloanopsis must not be allowed to be- come so dry ; plants of this are now making their growth, and must not suffer from want of water at the roots. Watch carefully now for slugs, &c, , as the spikes of many Orchids are showing, and a stray marauder may blight the best prospects of a twelvemonth's labour and anxiety. They seem to have a preference for Odontoglossum hastilabium, Oncidium crispum, and O. Marshal- lianum. Cool houses. — It may not be out of place to make a few remarks on the construction of a cool Orchid house, as the culture of these beautiful flowers seems to increase more and more, and a house may be constructed for them in a position where the other sections of Orchids would not succeed. Some of the best grown plants ever seen were in a lean-to facing the north. A house in the form of a lean-to, say from 9 feet to 12 feet wide, against a north wall, and high enough to allow a tall man to walk down the centre of it with comfort, will answer as well as any other form. Span-roofed houses, too, seem equally well adapted for them, judging by results ; the plants not only grow well in them, but their flowers last long in good condition after they open. The ad- vantages possessed by a lean-to against a north wall are, first, the least cost in construction com- pared with a span-roofed house, less cost for fuel, and very much less attention as to watering, shading, and ventilating. In all cases there should be ventilation in the front walls, and in the case of lean-to houses also in the back wall near the top, in order to secure ventilation in wet weather. The stages should also be built so that some ma- terial, such as gravel, spar, or fine coal, may be used on which to stand the plants. They ought not to be so wide that the plants cannot be searched every night for slugs and snails. We have required very little artificial heat in our house this winter. The temperature has seldom fallen below 50° without any beat in the pipes. FRUIT. Orchard house. — If the roots of the early trees were in a satisfactory condition when forc- ing was commenced, the blossom-buds will now be swelling fast, and the earliest kinds will be ready to expand. When this stage has been at- tained fumigate the house to destroy any green fly which the gentle warmth may have brought into existence, otherwise it will prove extremely troublesome, and do serious mischief to the crop before the later kinds have set their fruit. Pay particular attention to watering and syringing with tepid water until the blossoms begin to ex- pand, and avoid wetting the trees during the time they are in flower, but on no account allow the roots to suffer from want of water. Allow the temperature to range from 50° to 55° on mild nights, with a little air, to (10° or 65° on fine days, with an increased circulation, and impregnate the flowers with a camel's-hair pencil about noon, when the house has reached the maximum and the atmosphere is dry. Later houses. — Where the trees have been removed to the open air to make room for other subjects, preparations must now be made for re- placing them under glass, as, owing to the mild- ness of the season, the buds on many of the Peaches, Plums, and Cherries are now getting forward, and unless they are protected with nets or carefully watched small birds in wooded dis- tricts will soon destroy the most prominent and of course the most valuable flowers. If cleansing and painting has been delayed, get it done at once; examine each tree as it is drawn out of the plunging material, wash the shoots with strong soapy water to free them from scale, scrub the pots, and see that the drainage is satisfactory. If space is limited. Pears may be left out till next month. In the final arrangement of the trees. Peaches, Nectarines, and Figs should occupy the warmest part of the house, Plums, Cherries, and Pears the coldest ; but choice kinds of the latter will be im- proved by removal to a warm, airy situation when the fruit is swelling and ripening. If pot Straw- berries are grown in orchard houses, they should be placed on shelves near the glass, where they can be well syringed and have the full benefit of light and solar heat. Cherries. — Where only one house is devoted to Cherries the end of the old year or the begin- ning of .January is a good time to begin forcing, if forcing it can be called, as owing to the excit- able nature of the trees, the great art of growing house Cherries successfully consists in the main- tenance of a low temperature, ranging a few de- grees higher than the external air when the weather is temperate, and as low as 40° at night when very severe. Like all stone fruit trees which are liable to be affected by aphis, cleanliness is very important, and no trouble should be spared in preparing for a good start. When this has been done, soft-wooded plants, like Geraniums, Cine- rarias, or other subjects liable to carry green fly should be excluded, and the everlasting pot Straw- berry should be dipped in a strong insecticide be- fore it is allowed to have a place. Assuming that the borders are inside, see that they are well mulched with manure and watered with water at a temperature of 70° to 80°. Syringe daily, warm the pipes every morning with air, ventilate freely at 55°, and shut off fire-heat when the house is closed on mild afternoons. Early houses started at the end of November will be getting well ad- vanced, and the blossoms on some of the trees will soon be open. When this charming picture begins to unfold, syringing must be discontinued, otherwise the petals of the flowers will damp be- fore the fruit is properly set. Keep up a circula- tion of air unless the weather becomes very severe. Let the temperature range from 45° at night to 50° by day when fire-heat is needed, and a few degrees higher under gleams of sunshine. Fumi- gate before the blossoms open, and fertilise with a brush when the pollen becomes free. Melons. — Wher« early Melons are required and a light, efficiently heated pit is at command, a few seeds of some free-bearing early kind may be sown at once in small pots and plunged in a bottom heat of 80°, which can be kept up by the aid of hot-water pipes running beneath the bed. The great drawback to Melons at this early season is want of light, a difficulty which may be met by keeping the young plants close to the glass, which must be clean, and by covering with bell-glasses in preference to mats on severe nights. Immediately after the seeds are sown, set about the preparation of suitable materials for making up the plunging bed in which the plants are to grow and ripen their fruit. For this purpose well- worked tan gives 'east trouble, but in wooded districts sound Oak leaves produce better results, as the moist heat from decaying vegetable matter is more favourable to a clean healthy growth of vine and foliage. Another important item in suc- cessful Melon culture is a good supply of strong loam from an old pasture, which should he cut some months before it is wanted for use, and stacked in an open airy shed or in long narrow ridges o\it-of-doors, with some kind of covering for throwing ofE heavy rain and snow. If this is not at hand, lose no time in securing enough for the season, and expose it to the atmosphere, as wet crude soil is sure to lead to disappointment if not to complete failure. Pines. — With the exception of plants which are swelling off fruit, and the early batch of Queens recently plunged in strong bottom-heat, the general stock of Pines may be kept very quiet until the end of the month, when with increasing length of days and brighter weather they will soon start into vigorous growth, and make better Jan. 19, 1884.] THE GARDEN 45 plants than i£ kept in a state of excitement through the dead months of December and Janu- ary. Queens, Rothschilds, and Cayennes rest and winter well in a bottom-heat o£ 70° to 75°; but in the event of the old material in which the Queens are plunged sinking much below the above figures, it will be advisable to open the valves for a short time, and water the bed with hot water at a temperature of '.'0°, care being taken that it does not pass over the sides of the pots to excite a portion of the roots before the proper time arrives for starting them into fruit. Keep a close watch upon plants now about start- ing and increase the supply of stimulating liquid to the roots as soon as the fruits can be seen, also atmospheric moisture by damping all available spaces between and around the plants, but avoid wetting the fruit till well above the foliage and the flowering period is over. Successions.— Examine these once a .week- and see that the plants in small pots, placed in near proximity to the bottom-heat pipes, do not want for water. Where this danger does not exist but little water will be needed for the present. Give a little air on fine days to prevent the plants from becoming drawn, and cover up at night to economise fire-heat. Prepare crocks, pots, and soil for use next month. If the latter, good turfy loam, is not in suitable condition, break it up with the hand and expose it to the atmosphere, where it will become dry and warm before the time arrives for potting. Haedt fkuit. — The mild damp weather which has been so favourable for pruning and nailing will have held out inducements to many to post- pone such work as top-dressing and mulching until walks and borders are in a better state for wheeling manure and compost. ISut so important an operation must not be longer neglected, as the timely application of a good covering to newly planted or root-pruned trees cannot be overrated. Where Pears are grown on the Quince stock and the roots have not been disturbed, the annual top- dressing of good rich manure may be wheeled out on frosty mornings as soon as the nailing is finished. It is well known that the successful cul- ture of Pears on the Quince stock greatly depends upon rich top-dressings : and as the borders in course of time become too high, old top-dressing and exhausted soil may be forked ofiE and placed on the vegetable quarters to make room for the new. After a few years, heavy cropping puts an end to extension ; blossom buds only are formed, and as many people are quite incompetent to thin their own fruit, the annual removal of old spurs at pruning time should not be neglected. If on wet, adhesive soils the planting of trees has not been completed, it will be better to allow them to re- main " laid in " on a dry border and well pro- tected with litter than to attempt to plant while the ground is saturated with cold water. Push on the pruning and cleaning of all kinds of fruit trees, as the time may be at hand when it will be cruel to force men to stand for hours at a stretch .igainst cold brick walls. Unfortunately, the winter dressing of hardy trees is much neglected ; many troublesome insects are allowed to rest in the bark and walls, from which they almost pre- cede the unfolding of the earliest buds in spring. KITCHEN GARDEN. SuEELY no new year ever dawned upon us with the same brightness as that of 18SI. The charm- ing sunny days, the glorious sunsets, and the slight frosts added together make the perform- ances of garden operations enjoyable. We are just now busily employed loosening the soil in the Cabbage quarter, which, thanks to the charm- ing weather, is like a bed of coal ashes. Young Cab- bages are now (Jan. 12; verj much larger than we have ever seen them before at the same date. Young Lettuces, of which we have now some thousands, occupy the spaces between rows of Strawberries ; these we are cultivating and freshening up for the spring. Growing Lettuces in this manner does the Strawberries no harm, and adds something to the exchequer. The varieties grown for the winter are Tennis-ball, Covent Garden Green Cos, and Black-seeded Brown Cos. Cabbage Lettuces are fast coming to the front for salad purposes ; they come in early in spring, are beautifully white, and blanch themselves, while the open-hearted Cos varieties require tying up, which is not only a tedious operation, but, unless tied up quite dry, the hearts rot. We have this day planted the first range of pita, consisting of twelve lights, with early Potatoes. The sets of all of them have been grown in boxes, and are now about 2 inches long, planted in light, sandy soil at the top of a bed of leaves. Leaves, when we can get enough of them in the pit — say 3 feet — make the best of all hot- beds, their heat being mild and lasting. Another range of pits is nearly ready for Cauliflower, Snow's Broccoli, and spring Radishes. The variety of Cauliflower which we grow for first crop is Snowball. Seeds of these are sown the first week in February, when Early Horn Carrots and a host of small seeds are sown at the same time. Not- withstanding the mild weather which we have had during the whole of the winter months, gar- deners must not be caught napping, for we are almost certain to have sharp weather yet. All Peas should, therefore, be staked, and a fringe of bracken stuck down each side of the row. It is a mistake to suppose that frost alone kills young Peas ; it is simply the dry, harsh winds which cut them to pieces when not protected. If any vacant quarters are still undug, get them done at once, so that when spring comes upon us all may be ready for planting. Kitchen Garden. TALL V. DWARF PEAS. The relative value of tall and dwarf Peas is a question that can only be satisfactorily decided according to circumstances. No one at all con- versant with the bearing capacity of tall Peas, as compared with dwarf ones, will, I should think, refuse to grant that when circumstances are favourable to their growth they are much more profitable to grow than dwarf ones. But, as I have said, there are circumstances in each case which will influence opinion to a great extent. For instance, in many small gardens tall Peas are not admissable, and in other cases suitable sticks for supporting them are diflicult to obtain. There is, therefore, no choice in such cases but to select dwarf growers. Towards these, however, I am not favourably disposed, except it be for the very earliest crops. They are, in many cases, inferior in flavour, and the duration of the crop is so short that the yield is much less than that of tall Peas. I do not wish to condemn the flavour of Veitch's Perfection and one or two other dwarf- growing sorts, as they are all that can be desired. Cut the number of good-flavoured dwarf Peas may be counted on the fingers of one hand, and as regards their bearing capacity it will be generally acknowledged that one row of Champion of England, British Queen, or Ne Plus Ultra will produce as many Peas as three rows of any dwarf variety. Therefore in point of space there is nothing gained by being able to grow the rows of dwarf Peas closer together. In fact, it becomes a question whether dwarf Peas do not incur a direct loss, as there must be more labour attached to three rows than one, and there must necessarily be a greater exhaustion of the soil. Owing to re- stricted space, I have been for several years ex- perimenting with these two sections of Peas, and the result is decidedly in favour of tall growers except for early crops. In the matter of Selecting the best sorts in each section, we may expect opinions to differ, but I have no hesi- tation in saying that a little white Pea, known as Early May thirty years ago, is not yet surpassed in any one particular. Under the most favourable circumstances Peas are not picked earlier now than they were then ; nor are they in any other way su- perior. For the earliest crop I cannot find one to beat Ringlead, and for the second William Lst. This last is a very valuable addition to the early kinds. I make a sowing of this on a south border about the middle of December, when I sow the earliest. I make another sowing at the same time in the open quarters, and this forms a succession to those on the border. For the next crop I select Cham- pion of England, which with us is most reliable. It is not often attacked by mildew ; it is most productive, and as regards a table Pea it is unsur- passed. The Champion is our sheet anchor for the summer, during which we make three or four different sowings of it, and it never disappoints us. For autumn supply I sow Ne Plus Ultra about the 20th of May, and again between the 8t.h and 12th of June, which for the west of England answers very well. Sometimes we sow a row of British Queen early in June, just to have two strings to our bow ; the quality of this sort and its pro- ductiveness are two well known to need comment. My selection of DwAKF SOETS would be, for the earliest crop, American Wonder. This scarcely exceeds 15 inches in height, and for so dwarf a kind is exceedingly productive, and of fair average flavour when cooked. Laxton's Alpha is not so early as the round white Peas, but follows them very closely. It grows about 2 feet high, is fairly productive, and very good in flavour. Dr. Maclean and Laxton's Best of All are two excellent varie- ties to come in succession, but for a mid-season sort in soils that suit it Veitch's Perfection is un- surpassed for productiveness and superior flavour. My experience of this Pea is rather singular. Twelve years ago and more I could grow excellent crops of it, but now it does not pay for the sticks that support it. For the latest crop Omega is undoubtedly the best in cultivation. We grew this sort for several years, and had no reason to find fault with it in any respect. Protection from birds. — We find that tom- tits are very destructive to late Peas, and as we have to provide a wooden frame and nets to pro- tect Raspberries from the depredations of the larger birds, the frame and nets do well for the Peas. They just cover two rows of Raspberries. We sow our latest crops of Peas at the same dis- tance apart as the Raspberries, and as soon as the fruit is all gathered, the frame and nets are placed over the Peas. The frame consists of a few upright stakes 6 feet out of the ground ; some rough bat- tens are nailed longways on the top of the stakes, and thus we have a substantial frame to support the nets, which are stretched over it, and reach the ground on all sides. We have therefore only to lift up the net at one end and walk in under it to pick the fruit or the Peas. All our other crops of tall Peas we distri- bute about the garden as much as we can in iso- lated rows, as we find the produce greatest where there is plenty of room ; even dwarf sorts bear better when so distributed than where crowded. In every case it may be taken for granted that it is a direct loss to crowd Peas, either by sowing the seed too thickly in the rows, or by placing the rows too closely together. J. C. C. EFFECT OF THE ELECTRIC LIGHT ON VEGETATION. More than a year ago, on observing in different journals notices relating to the growth of plants by means of the electric light, I resolved to inves- tigate the matter, as I doubted the statements which had been recorded on the subject. Our first experiment was made with some good-sized Potatoes. A few of these were placed in a posi- tion where they were exposed to the full glare of an electric light during the whole of the night, though in the daytime the place which they oc- cupied was kept quite dark. The remaining por- tion of the Potatoes was laid down in a continu- ally dark place, but enjoyed a similar amount of space for air circulation and exactly the same temperature as those on which the electric light flared. When the Potatoes had pushed growths about 5 inches in length they were removed and exa- mined in broad daylight. The growths of both lots, which were equal in length, bore the same general appearance, and resembled the growths of 46 THE GARDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. Potatoes which had lain for some time in a dark cellar or in the bottom of a stowed-away barrel. I examined with great care those which had vege- tated under the influence of the electric light, to see if the growths possessed any green colouring matter. But not the faintest tinge of this could be seen, so that the great principle which either directly or indirectly builds up, nourishes, and de- velops all the higher forms of plants and trees, and ripens and colours fruits and seed-pods was found to be absent. Chemists may analyse and identify the electric light with the rays of the sun in whatever way they please, but it is quite evident that the latter are something altogether different from the light in question, I venture to assert that the electric light, even if perfected to a far higher degree than it at present is, will not be found to influence in the most remote way the development even of any of the lowest forms of vegetation. The opinion, therefore, which has been expressed of its value in accelerating and assisting the growth of plants and ripening of fruits is simply a delusion. Any one can satisfy himself in regard to this matter by making a trial, such as I have done. Large, rapid-growing seeds, planted in loam and watered, will answer the purpose just as well as Potatoes, only the latter can be laid about anywhere and demand no special attention. Robert Cross. Cramoitd. EARLY LETTUCES. Up to the present there have been no losses from frosts among autumn-sown Lettuce plants, but it is almost impossible to preserve them from slugs. The long continued wet and unseasonably mild weather has been very favourable to their move- ments, and has also induced an undesirable early growth among Lettuces and other plants. Those who have not sown some Lettuce seed in a frame late in autumn may find that they have an insuf- ficiency of plants, especially should we yet expe- rience severe and, to the exposed and now delicate Lettuces, probabl}' destructive frosts. We find plants reared thinly and wintered in frames and kept freely ventilated— and therefore sturdy and hardy — to be of the greatest value for filling up blanks among autumn-planted Lettuces on exposed borders as well as at the foot of sunny walls. They are also serviceable for planting in the open among rows of young Strawberry plants, dwarf early Peas, or in a quarter devoted to Lettuces. In either case they will form a good succession to those in more sheltered spots, being usually fit for use before the earliest, with one exception, of those raised in spring. The ex- ception is the Early Paris Market Cabbage Let- tuce, a variety which, in addition to being extremely quick-growing, also hearts in splendidly, and is in quality first-rate. Preparing a seed bed.— Now is a good time to sow seed of this sort, and also of the black- seeded Brown Cos, or, if preferred, of any good variety of Paris White Cos. A slight hot-bed should be formed, consisting of a well-prepared mixture of leaves and stable manure ; or, it the former cannot be had, of manure alone. On this place a single or two-light frame, and this bed may also be utilised for rearing a few early Cauli- flowers, Brussels Sprouts, and Cabbage plants. In order to bring the seedlings as near the glass as possible, the frame should be half filled with some of the shortest of the heating material ; on this place about 4 inches of good and not very rough soil, and finish off with another 2 inches of finer bifted light soil. Sowing. — When the soil is warmed through and the trial stick can be borne comfortably in thehand, sow the seed thinly in properly divided patches and cover with a sprinkling of sifted soil. If the soil is moist, which it should be, no water will be required, neither then nor later on, till the seedlings are past the critical damping period. Weather permitting, give air directly the seedlings are up and pull the lights olf on warm bright days, leaving a little air on during warm nights, the aim|being to keep the plants as sturdy as possible. Protect the frame during frosty nights. In the meantime another slight hotbed should have been prepared, on this being stood one or more frames according to cir- cumstances, filling these somewhat similarly to the seed frames, only the soil should be rather richer and less tine soil be placed on the surface. On these beds, rows of the Paris Market Lettuce may be pricked out about 3 inches apart each way, every alternate row and every other plant in the reserved rows being subsequently lifted with a good ball of soil attached to the roots and transplanted to the foot of any sheltered wall or on a warm border, and dis- posing them about 6 inches apart each way. The holes made by lifting these plants to be filled up with a little good soil, and the frames then kept rather close and well attended to in the shape of waterings when required. Under such circum- stances they grow at a rapid rate, and with us result in some of the best Lettuces we taste during the season. They are appreciated by all who try them, and are especially good in salads. Those at the foot of the walls, if properly protected from slugs, will be fit for use in time to maintain an unbroken succession, and before many of the autumn-sown Lettuces are really fit for the salad bowl. I ought, perhaps, to have stated that we keep the seedlings rather close after being pricked and watered, but subsequently harden them off well, and choose mild weather for planting them out. It is also advisable to protect from late frosts or cutting winds with branches of ever- greens. Substitute for a frame. — Where fewer are grown and frames not plentiful, a good num- ber of Paris Market Lettuce plants may be raised in an ordinary Pelargonium box, taking care to remove them from a house or warm frame before they become drawn or spoilt. Rows of plants may be dibbled among the rows of other early veget- ables in frames, such as dwarf Peas, Kidney Beans, or in the fronts of successional and late Peach houses and orchard houses, or in boxe.s of good soil, placed in vineries, and any other some- what similar positions that may suggest them- selves. They will stand gentle forcicg, providing a light position be assigned them. Many plants might also be dibbled among the rows of pricked- out, spring-raised plants of Cauliflowers, Sprouts, &c., in frames, all the latter being eventually transplanted to the open borders and the frames given up to the Lettuces for a short time. W. I. M. MUSHROOM SPAWN. During some eight years I was employed in a large garden containing one of the largest Mush- room houses in the kingdom, and the spawn was always received from one source near London, where it was made, and during the whole of the time it proved good, always producing fine crops. After I left there and came here I continued to procure my spawn from the same quarter, and with equally good results, till a few years ago, when I was prevailed upon to give somebody else's a trial, and from that time for several years after- wards I tried spawn from various seedsmen — in all cases with far less successful results in the shape of crops than previously. This led to enquiries on my part and explanations on the part of the seedsmen, and I was not a little surprised to learn that these seedsmen actually bought their stock of spawn from the same party near London, who manufactured the bricks, and whom I had originally dealt with my- self. One noted provincial seedsman imagined, I daresay, he had fixed me when he first told me this ; but knowing how much spawn was affected by the conditions under which it was stored, I determined to try a further experiment, and so procured some spawn from my old source, and some from the seedsman, and spawned one half of the same bed with the one, and the other half with the other, with the result that the seeds- man's end was a failure, while the other end pro- duced one of the finest crops I ever had ; and the other beds from the good spawn all did well too, j At present, we have grand crops from the same spawn, and I need not say I have returned to the old source of my supply and get spawn from no other. As to what caused the difference in the two articles— originally from the same place — I can only surmise ; but I noticed that the bricks from the makers were comparatively soft and brittle, and those from the seedsman as hard as a board. Hardness is not a fault, however, except in so far as it indicates exposure, and this, I have a strong conviction, was what killed the retailer's spawn ; for, on going into his shop one day, I saw his store of cakes piled up behind the counter without pro- tection of any kind, and exposed to all the vicissi- tudes of temperature of a cold shop in the winter time. It is treatment of this kind which destroys Mushroom spawn. It does not matter how old spawn may be, provided it is kept dark, dry, and warm. When perfectly dry, it remains in statu quo, but moisture and heat both set it running, and it soon gets past the thread stage, when it be- comes useless for spawning beds. A correspon- dent asked the other week what was the reason his Mushrooms went off as soon as they appeared above the surface. He may guess it is something in the top treatment that is the cause, and I think if the temperature of the air in his Mushroom house is often at 70° — which figure he gi\es as the maximum — I do not wonder at them going off, and they would do the same in a too low and damp temperature, He should moisten the bed where dry only under such circumstances, and keep the temperature of the bed down to about 00°, and that of the air of the hou:e a little lower still. The Mushroom cannot endure a high temperature while growing. J. S. W. Early Border Potato —Those who preftr a nearly round variety to the Ashleafs may with advantage grow Early Border ; it is of quick growth, and, considering the very small amount of haulm made, the tubers are surprisingly large ; they are very clean, and handsome, too, and the quality is all that could be desired. It is well adapted for pot and frame culture, and, in mj' opinion, is one of the most distinct Potatoes of recent introduction. — I. Adirondack and Triumph Potatoea.— Both of these AmertcDn sorts do well with u.s, cropping heavily, not being much diseased, and cooking satisfactorily. The former makes most top growth, and is the heaviest cropper ; yet I prefer Triumph, as this has short, sturdy haulm, and perfects a good early crop. When lifted, the two sorts rather resemble each other ; but, on the whole, I prefer the smaller tubers of Triumph, and this variety will be grown, as usual, to suc- ceed the Ashleaf sorts, while the Adirondack when all used will not be grown again. Adirondack may, in short, be described as a coarse form of Triumph, which I have long considered to be one of the best of the American Potatoes, and one which will not be superseded by Adirondack. — T. Root cuttings of Seakale v. eeeds.— The great demand for Seakale roots strong enough for forcing renders the work of propagating this highly-prized vegetable of great importance ; for, although some few still adhere to the old plan of forcing the plants in permanent beds by means of fermenting manure and leaves placed over forcing pots, by far the greater portion of Sea- kale roots is lifted and placed in artificial heat elsewhere. In lifting the crowns, therefore, every piece of the fleshy roots should be carefully ex- tracted from the ground, for if left they prove troublesome, and the best way of turning ttiese ex- tracted pieces to good account is to cut them into lengths of 5 inches or G inches, and place them in boxes of light soil in a cool house or shed, where they will form crowns by the middle of March. They may then be planted out in rows 2 feet apart and 1 foot from plant to plant. Young healthy roots, even though not larger than a quill, make better plants than old decayed ones that frequently rot altogether after they have made some little progress. Seed makes the healthiest plants for forming permanent plantations, and if sown early on good soil will furnish good crowns Jan. U», 1884,] THE GARDEN 47 for producing late crops the first year after sow- ing, but I find that seedlings do not ripen ofE their growth so early in autumn as cuttings, and are therefore not so suitable for very early crops. Where a large demand exists both methods should be practised, for even the smallest plants raised from seed will, if transplanted and set at good wide intervals apart in open sunny positions, make fine crowns for forcing after a second year's growth, as the earlier good leaves can be got, the earlier will the plants ripen their growth in the autumn. — J. G., Hants. Scotch Champion Potato. — Mr. Gil- bert considers this the best Potato grown, andwho shall say he is not right in his estimate ? On our heavy, clayey loam it crops heavily, and the tubers, though sometimes large and hollow, are yet in- variably of first-class quality. For my own use I prefer Wagnum LJonum, but it has to be planted on lighter soil, or it is too close in texture. In some seasons the Scotch Champion is not good with us long after Christmas, but this season it has been good from the time of lifting till now, that is to say, better than usual. — I. 5127.— Mushroom failure.— As " W. B." (p. 10) fails wiih his Mushrooms after they come through the soil, it is evident that something must be wrong with the atmosphere of the house, which probably is not damp enough, and if above 55^ is too hot, as when the temperature gets above that point it is too high for Mushroome, which, if they grow at all, draw up with long attenuated stems and small heads that have little or no juice in them. The air of a Mushroom house, to be per- fect, should be uniformly moist and close, and never vary beyond a few degrees in heat either way from the point just mentioned, and if so kept there will be no difficulty in growing Mushrooms well.— S. D. Vegetables ■worth gro'wiog. — That Jlr. Muir's list of vegetables worth growing (p. 20) includes all the best varieties, there can be no doubt ; but in his list of Broad Beans he has left out a variety which all should grow, viz., Beck's Green Gem. This I can recommend. It is a very free bearer, good in flavour, and keeps a long time before it gets dry. As regards Early Mazagan being the earliest of all the Broad Beans, Mr. Muir surely cannot have tried aoy other for early crops. As a proof that it is not the earliest, I may state that I planted last spring a row about iO yards long, half with Early Maza- gan and half with Seville Longpod. The latter came into use fully a week before the former. It was, I believe, tried at Chiswick and found to be much earlier than Early Mazagan. As to Toma- toes, I do not think we can do very well without Hatha way's Excelsior, it being a sure cropper and everything that can be desired, both in flavour and colour. — J. P. B Chou de Burghley.— If this will withstand sharp frosts without becoming damaged or dete- riorated thereby, it is sure to be largely grown, as it comes in at a season when it is most valuable, and affords variety with Brussels Sprouts, with which I consider it equal in quality. I am only sorry that I did not sow and plant more of it, and especially that I did not provide a second batch of it in order that we might be cutting it from this time onwards, so as to fill up the void till the early Broccoli makes its appearance. I shall not make the same mistake this year, and I would advise others to divide their seed and sow part about the middle of March and the remainder a couple of months later, as then they may expect to cut this Cabbage from early autumn till the spring is far advanced. — J. Sheppakd. Sno-w's 'Winter "White Broccoli. — Thanks to the prevalence of mild weather, an uninterrupted supply of Broccoli has been pro- curable from open fields daring the whole of the winter ; no sooner was Autumn Giant exhausted than the early winter kinds of Broccoli began to come in, and lately Snow's Winter White, nearly a foot in diameter, and firm as cricket balls, has been plentiful. The system of culture in open fields is to allow plenty of room both in the seed bed and between the roots— treatment under which the plants become dwarf and stocky. The seed is sown broadcast in March thinly ; therefore to keep down weeds little hoes can be worked amongst the young seedlings. These soon form robust plants, and in Slay or June they are planted out a yard apart on deeply-ploughed land that has been cleared of other crops, or between every second row of Potatoes, and beyond keeping them clean very little in the way of cultivation is needed until the heads are fit for cutting. Broccoli grown in this way is decidedly superior to that grown in close-walled gardens, where it invariably gets drawn up lanky and tall, while the size of the heads de- pends more on the size of the stems than on the length and abundance of the leaves. Although mid- winter Broccoli is a precarious crop, owing to sud- den visitations of severe frost, a good selection of Snow's Winter White is a valuable vegetable for either market or private use. When it comes in too fast at this time of the year, it may be kept back for a considerable time if laid in by the heels and covered with litter if sharp frost sets in. — James Gkoom. BARBERRY BLIGHT. The annexed illustrations show the foster plants, whereon the spores or seed of the fungus (Puc- cinia graminis) settle themselves and take root in the spring of the year. The spores would quickly Fig. 1. (Elightcd leaves nfthe common Barberrt/.) begin to germinate on almost any moist leaf in a humid season ; but no other leaf yet dis- covered offers the required advantages for the mi- nute spores to engraft themselves, except that of the common Barberry, and no other fruit than that of the Ar|uifolium. In spring, when the spores Fig. 2. (Fruit of E. ArjuiMium.) issue in myriads from old straw, thatch, and even half-decomposed manure heaps, they no soonerfalluponthe surface of the above-mentioned plant than the small roots take hold of, or rather engraft themselves into, the leaf and fruit. Being nursed there, in a short period, say from fourteen to twenty-eight days, they become matured, throwing oft spores as numberless as the sand upon the seashore. Such of these spores as by chance fall upon softer strawed Wheat plants, favoured by a moist atmos- phere, quickly reproduce abundantly other spores of a slightly different character, such as will germinate and mature upon other Whea'; plants, and thus they continue to vastly multiply until the summer is far ad- vanced, always, however, requiring moisture to aid their germinating powers. Now when autumn arrives, the most interesting process in the reproducing powers of the fungus takes place ; for did the mildew on the wheat plant continue to dispose of the same kind of spores only at the expiration of the summer, as it had hitherto done, they would surely die in the winter season, totally unable to withstand the un- genial temperature of an ordinary English winter. But all this is beauti- fully provided for by Nature, for a different spore or seed is now pro- duced, called by botanists the " resting spore," and this will remain upon the "Wheat straw throughout the most severe winter, clothed, as it were, in a warm raiment proof against the most severe frosts. Upon the advent of the following spring they grow out count- less numbers of seed, many of which may perhaps alight npon the young blades of growing Wheat, but in vain, for they cannot mature there. Such, however, as settle, as I have before observed, upon the leaf of the common Barberry (fig. 1), or upon the fruit of B. Aquifolium that abounds in our shrubberries (fig. 2), quickly grow, and reproduce a multiplicity of seed. Someof this floatsaway onlhcairtoour Wheat crops, develops itself upon the blades of Wheat (fig. 3), and continues Fig 3 to pass through the same routine from (Bliiihttd year to year, causing incalculable loss, blade of not to the husbandman alone, but to wheat.) y^g country generally. J. W. R., in Farm and Home. Fruit Garden. GOOD APPLES. Mr. D0UGLA3 gives (p. 1) some useful advice to intending planters of Apples for profit, which I am desirous of supplementing with a few facts that have come under my notice, as to the best sorts to plant for certainty of cropping, and for command- ing a ready sale in the market Exaggerated statements, such as that of Blenheim Oranges realising £.\ per bushel, are only calculated to mislead. If people only gave a second thought as to the price at which really good Apples have been selling during the last three or four months, they would be convinced that such prices were unat- tainable. The wholesale price of English-grown Apples has been from -Is. to us. per sieve., and only good samples realised these prices. This statement need not, however, damp the ardour of intending planters, for that Apple culture is a profitable industry at these figures I am thoroughly convinced. I have sent many hundreds of sieves of Apples to London markets in seasons of scar- city, and also in seasons of plenty, and by refer- ence to my salesman's returns I find that 5s. per sieve is a fair average price for good Apples ; in- deed, by far the largest portion of our home-grown crop is sold for less than that. Out of the hundreds of sorts of Apples in cultivation 48 THE GAKDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. the only ones that are known to purchasers may be counted on the fingers. Eibstons, Blenheims, and Golden Pippins, with Codlins or Wellingtons for cooking, exhaust the list of English sorts that are inquired after, and any sorts that bear the slightest resemblance to one or other of these well-known kinds are passed off as such. This is done, too, in some instances without detriment to the purchaser, for that varieties but seldom heard of by name are more than equal to those so eagerly sought after for every purpose for which Apples are grown must be patent to all who take the trouble to enquire. It will be found that some kinds very largely grown and highly esteemed in one part of the kingdom are not known even by name in another, and during the last few years many kinds that were quite in the background have worked their way to the front by reason of their certainty of cropping and general excellence, while those termed first-class are only grown in limited quantities. The reason is not far to seek. Not many years ago, anyone who in- tended to plant an orchard either took the names of the sorts to be planted from fruits shown at exhibitions, or consulted some work on fruit where Apples are classified mostly as regards flavour. Thus, Kibston Pippin, Margil, or the Cornish Gilli- flower, Ashmead's Kernel, Golden Pippin, and other first-rate sorts were planted in positions both suitable and unsuitable. In sheltered walled gardens, if they produced a light crop for the use of a private family all well and good ; but for the rough-and-ready system of growing fruit in quantity for market, where varieties are valued ac- cording to what they produce, a very different standard of excellence has to be set up. Instead of wasting efforts upon sorts that one would like to grow, cultivators go in for planting what they can grow. A good crop at a price which the general public can alford to pay is of more importance than fancy prices obtained for special kinds that require the shelter of glass to bring them to perfection. Although the Kib- ston Pippin still commands the top price in the market, I shonld not advise it to be planted largely in orchards, except in very favourable positions, for, taking the average of severalyears, I find that varie- ties far down in the list are much more remunera- tive. As regards the Various systems or cKowiNa Apples for market, there can be no question that tall stand- ards on Grass at good wide distances apart are well adapted for farmers who can utilise the Grass for stock feeding, and thereby keep their trees manured and fruitful for many years. Probably this system would rapidly spread if farmers culti- vated their own land, or were recompensed for improvements made on the land which they rent. It is a landlord's question more than a tenant's, and must be taken up by landlords if we are to supply our markets with home-grown fruit. Then there is the mixed system of planting with tall standards at wide intervals apart and rows of dwarf bush trees between them. In Kent, where this system is largely practised, I have seen enor- mous crops of Codlins that, even at from 2s. to 3s. per sieve, realised a large sum per acre. In this locality I hnve seen very fine crops on trees planted at wide intervals and cropped between with vegetables, and now that bush trees grafted on dwarfing stocks are be- coming so popular, we shall probably find this system very largely practised, as the demand for fresh vegetables grows as fast as that for home- grown fruit. In close proximity to large towns, where a ready sale can be obtained for all kinds of market-garden crops, I feel certain that Apples grown in quantity will prove to be one of the safest investments for either the farmer or market gardener. Dwarf bush trees grafted on dwarfing stocks planted in lines wide enough apart to allow of intermediate cropping is the system which I should adopt, as they need but very little pruning and no training, and, being surface rooters, they continue healthy in shallow soils not suited for the deeper-rooting crab stocks. If the soil is cul- tivated and manured annually for intermediate crops, the Apples ■will continue fruitful for many years. There is no need for waiting weary years looking for frnit if good trees are planted. Out of several dozens that I planted twelve months ago not one has failed to carry some fine fruits, and many of them have had quite a full crop. The reason is obvious; these dwarfing stocks throw out a mass of fibrous roots ; therefore the trees stand removal without feeling the check, and in planting a quantity during the past week that had been temporarily laid in by the heels, I was surprised to find new roots not only pushing freely from all the older ones, but pushing out in all directions from the stems as far np as the soil had covered them. Early planting should therefore be the rule, as, although no outward growth is visible, the roots are at work and the trees will give ample proof the following season of the wis- dom of getting these moved directly the leaf drops. As regards the best Intekmediate okops to grow, there can be no question that bush fruits. Gooseberries, Currants, and Raspberries, are not only certain croppers, but always command a ready sale. No matter how heavy the crops may be, they are all cleared off by the jam manufacturers. Then there is Asparagus, which makes a capital interme- diate crop, and if hundreds of acres of it were planted, it would prove a remunerative crop to the cultivator, and a boon to the public. In the light, warm soil of the southern counties it could be grown as a field crop and sold at a profit at a price within the reach of all. This is one of the crops that need shelter from wind, and cross rows of Apple bushes acting like hedges would do this. Many other crops are equally benefited by shelter, or if bush trees were planted thick enough to occupy all the ground, or say from 10 feet to r2 feet apart, they would not only do this but also shelter one another, and the crops that an acre of such bushes would produce when in full bearing is surprising. Of vaeieties I should recommend the follow- ing as sure to give satisfaction, viz : — Kitchen Applet Keswick Codlin Manks Codlin I.onl Suffleld Cox's Pomona Loddinjrton Seedling Echliuville Stirling Castle ^ew Hau'thornden Wellington Warner's King Winter Queening Dutcli Mignonne Northern Greening Desert Appi'8. Mr. Gladstone Red Juneating Irish Peach Red Qnarrenden Worcester Pearmain King of Pippins Co.\'s Orange Pippin AVyken Pippin Reinette de Canada Redleaf Russet Summer Golden Pippin Golden Knob Sturmer Pippin A good number of bushes of each kind should be planted, for in planting for market one hun- dred trees of one or two kinds will in nearly every case be found more remunerative than if one hundred trees of fifty kinds were planted. Gosj/ort. James Geoom. INSIDE r. OUTSIDE VINE P,ORDEPvS. This is an important question, made still more so when coupled with the instructive details in the matter of water, given by " J. C. C." (p. 8). But I think "J. C. C. " is in error in estimating the extent to which borders wholly confined inside are approved of by the majority of those who have to deal with Vines. A belief that the roots of Vines will not stop in an inside border if they can get out is a fixed notion held by, I believe, the majority of gardeners ; but, as I have before tried to show when this question has cropped up, where the roots of Vines leave the inside border for the outside, it is through their not getting fair treatment inside, either by the soil getting too poor to suit them, or its not having enough water applied — the latter much the more fre- quent cause of their absence inside. Vine culture, as carried out under glass in this country, cannot be reckoned a new pursuit, but it is tolerably clear that it is only beginning to be fully understood how much water the roots must have to satisfy them. And before going further, I venture to suggest that it is well to give merit where it is due ; and Mr. Hunter's practice at Lambton, I think, may fairly be set down as the eye-opener as to the vast quantities of water Vines will not only bear, but require. The old cry about Vines getting too much water, so far as the growing season is concerned, is a huge mis- take, provided always that it can pass freely away. I have had Vines with all their roots in- side, through there being no chance of making any outside border, and found them improved by muchmore waterthanisgenerally supposed ample, but I did not take means to show reliably the quantity I gave, as " J. C. C." has done by his important and valuable calculation, which is evi- dence of the immense quantity of moisture Vines will bear. I think it may be safely said that in the case of Vines with their roots wholly confined to inside borders, that there are more that do not get half the water they should have than that receive enough. And in the case of the far greater numbers that have both inside and outside borders, the proportion that get enough to keep their inside roots plenti- ful and active bears but small comparison to those that go very much short. Yet although, with rea- sonable attention to the wants of the roots, there is no difficulty in keeping Vines healthy and fruit- ful for a long period in inside borders, still I think it is a mistake to altogether so confine them, unless where there is no opportunity of giving them more or less outside space in addition, especially in the case of late sorts that are wanted to hang on the Vines np to the end of the year, for with such, when wholly dependent for moisture on the roots so confined, it is no unusual thing to see the Berries shrivel, unless there is more mois- ture present in the soil than most growers care to have, with a view to prevent the berries moulding. I have seen this occur seve- ral times by the middle of November, and with growers who stand well to the front. 'When this mishap takes places there is no remedy ; no amount of water given after the berries begin to shrivel will cause their plumping up again, Dear ground compels many of the London market growers to cover the whole space they possess with glass, ex- cept just enough for path-room to move on, and under such circumstances I have seen in a bouse several tons of Grapes that had to be at once sold, making a shilling or two a pound less than they would if they could have been kept longer. Some of the growers who have the roots of their Vines all inside in this way take the precaution of giving a good soaking soon after the late crops are ripe, covering the border over with G inches of clean, dry straw to help to keep down the moisture. Where there is even only a limited extent of outside root space, not more than 6 feet or 8 feet in width, it is suflicient to prevent shrivelling in the way I have de- scribed, without having recourse to watering the inside border at a time when it is better for the Grapes to have the atmosphere dry. The 3 inches of drainage which "J. C. C. " speaks of is, no doubt, as effective as double or treble the amount would be, so long as it keeps from getting clogged at all — a condition that depends a good deal upon how it was secured when the border was made. A layer of good tough turf, such as is generally used for the purpose, if carefully laid on the drainage material, will usually keep the soil from getting down so as to prevent its acting. But with such repeated drenchings as needful, and that "J. C. C. " gives, there is a chance of the soil get- ting down amongst the drainage, which I should have liked better had it been 6 inches or 8 inches deep, especially with the depth of border named, and which few who have had much to do with Vines will look on as too deep. Presuming that " J. C. C. " has correctly calculated the Quantity op water he has given, it is an instructive lesson, as the amount applied is equal to considerably over half a million gallons per acre per annum. I should not suppose that there is one inside Vine border in ten throughout the country that gets more than a tenth of what " J. C. C. " has given ; neither are they likely to get anything near as much, unless there is the means of running it on by hose. There are a good many things in gardening where a course that seems theoretically reasonable Jan. 19, 1884. THE GAEDEN 49 is not borne out in practice, one of which may be named— the objection to the roots of Vines oc- cupying both outside and inside borders. I have never experienced any ill effects from the different conditions they are thus placed under, and some of the oldest and still vigorous and fruitful Vines I know have iheir roots so located. T. Baines. BLENHEIM ORANGE APPLE. " J. C. B." states (p. 32) that this Apple realises Gs, per sieve. '^Vho is willing to give that price for it i In the same paper Mr. Frankum asserts that he received but .Ss. per bushel for fine Blenheims, a statement which I can well believe, as I was told by one of our best growers, living within twenty miles of London, that he sent up a fine sample of picked Blenheims, and that the price which he received for them in Covent Gar- den was half-a-crown a bushel net. Nobody ought to pay 3s. per dozen for American Apples while the best Blenheims realise less than that for a bushel. Indeed, my friend told me that rather than sell them at that price he would give them away, or use them himself. Our market farmers are told to plant Apples and other fruits ; and peradventure they read of great prices being made; but when it comes to a question of calcu- lations, based on the amounts actually received by the growers, there is very little chance of a farmer succeeding in districts where fruit is not grown. I write from esperience, because a farmer in my own neighbourhood seriously mooted the question to me a few weeks ago ; and after we had talked it over it was deemed impracticable. Suppose he planted a few acres with Apple trees, the portion planted would have to be fenced in, as all the market farms in this part of Essex are practically fenceless. It would have to be a good fence to prevent the orchard from becoming the happy hunting ground of all the boys of the parish, and they are both numerous and formidable. Then how long would a farmer have to wait before his Apple trees were large enough to pay for the fence and the price of the trees ? The late Mr. Green, of Ilford, or his employer, the late Mr. Thompson, could have answered the question. Some eighteen years ago the late Mr. Thomas Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth, and some others pro- posed to form a company to grow fruit and veget- ables on the Clement's estate at Ilford. Owing to the want of support, the scheme fell through. However, the want of funds did not prevent Mr. Thompson trying what could be done on a greatly modified scale. Acting on the advice of Mr. Rivers, several acres of very fine soil were planted principally with Apple trees. I am quoting from memory, but I fancy Mr. Green told me they planted 600 Orange Pippin trees, as many Wel- lingtons; while Blenheims, Lord Suffields, Rei- ne'te de Canadas, Cox's Pomonas, Boston Eussets, and other sorts were planted in quantity. Much smaller numbers of Pear trees were planted, the sorts being principally Williams' Bon Chre- tien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre d'Amanlis, and a few other varieties, of which Doyenne du Comice and Beurre Superfin were thought to be the best. Between the rows of trees Strawberries and vegetables of various sorts were planted. The trees stood C feet apart at first, and when they became crowded every alternate row was taken oat, leaving them C feet by 12 feet. Subsequently, every alternate tree was taken out of the rows, leaving them 12 feet by 12 feet. The ground was Mr. Thompson's own, and even with no rent to pay the experiment up to his death, which took place about fourteen years after the trees were planted, resulted in a considerable loss. I visited the orchard in question several times during the season, and frequently heard Mr. Green express his opinion upon it. If a tenant farmer had tried such an experiment, we would have had an illustration of the old adage, " While the Grass grew the horse starved," verified. Some one may fancy that in this case the trees were badly managed, but I am in a position to assert that they were under good management ; and Mr. Green, who had the supervision of them, was a most enthusiastic cultivator. The varieties were such as have usually brought the highest price in the market. I may also say that the thinnings of the orchard were all planted to increase its extent. Therefore there must have been ultimately about a dozen acres. The trees might probably have borne pay- ing crops after the first fourteen years ; but on the death of Mr. Thompson the ground was sold for building purposes, and thus the experiment ended. When this 'experiment was tried much was said about the great profits that might be made by growing fruit. So many trees a yard apart (I8io) would plant an acre. In one, two, or three years each tree would bear so many Apples, which would sell for so much. Say a peck from each tree, 4840 pecks, or 1210bushels, at .is. per bushel, £302 10s. per acre; even at half-a-crown a bushel £1 50 would be a tempting figure ; these are drawing- room fancies. Plain matter of fact in the form of practical experience dissolves them into thin air. J. Douglas. VINE BORDERS WITHOUT SOIL. I HAVE been reading in more than one paper lately of Vines at Wilton House, that are said to be growing " without soil," and I have also heard of them from other sources as well. It %vill be remembered that some time ago Vine growers were startled by the same idea from another quarter, but in that case the Vines grew in a border com- posed solely of cow manure and rotten leaves, and great things were anticipated from the ex- periment, but it was allowed to drop out of sight, we believe, because it did not answer expectations. The experiment at Wilton House, however, is of a much more intelligent and suggestive description, and opens up two or three aspects of Vine border treatment that have been much discussed already. Everyone acquainted with Vine literature knows that in mostly all authoritative receipts for a border, bones, lime rubbish, charcoal, and broken bricks figure rather prominently. At a large garden where I was once Vine borders were always being made and unmade every year, and many composts were experimented with, but in all of them the above four ingredients entered to the extent of a third or a fourth of the total bulk, at least, and it used sometimes to be said, half in a joke and half in earnest, that if such large quantities of lime, bricks, bones, and char- coal were required it might be as well to form the border of these alone. This, we learn, has now been done. Mr. Challis, of Wilton, planted, I read, a set of Vines in a border composed of these in about equal parts, and with the result that the Vines in that border " have for years afforded fruit superior in quality to all others in the garden." These Vines are grown alternately with others growing in a border of soil of the ordinary de- scription, " but the rods are the finest and hardest, and the Grapes invariably the best that are grown in the soilless border." Now, if this be correct, it is an important discovery. For myself, 1 do not doubt that Vines will grow in a compost of pounded brick, charcoal, lime, and bones, for many kinds of plants will thrive for a consider- able time in any of the three first alone. It is a common thing to find forest trees growing almost exclusively among rocks, the roots having pene- trated the fissures to a great depth, where no soil, in the common acceptation of the word, is to be found. I have seen many such examples, and I think we are indebted to Sir Walter Scott for the discovery, for he was the first to draw attention to the fact in the line in which he describes an oak that had " cast anchor in the rifted rock." It is extraordinary the kind of rooting medium that trees will thrive in. About here many heaps of pure shale (a kind of inferior coal) has accumulated in the neighbourhood of old disused coal shafts. These heaps (hills they are called locally) are many feet deep, and have been planted with Larch and other trees, which grow quite freely, and now, but for the peculiarly artificial-looking shape of the mounds, no one would suspect them, from the appearance of the trees, to consist of anything but soil, of which they contain none. I am quite prepared, therefore, to believe that Vines may grow and do well in a compost of materials that contain in abundance all the elements of Vine food, and which are at the .same time liarmless when mixed in the right propor- tions. But a main question is, what about water ? Growers now vie with each other in boasting of the thousands of gallons of water they apply to their Vine borders, but how is a border constituted on the principle of a sieve to be kept at the saturation point. True charcoal and brick have a great capacity for moisture, and if they are only ground down finely enough they might answer well enough, but we want further information on tliat point. We need to know more about Mr. Challis' border and about the Vines — their age, growth, and weight of crop, and other matters. I do not like the way of conveying an idea of anything to the public by saying such and suchathingis betterthan something else, of neither of which the public have any precise information. This is just where we are fast in regard to the ex- periment at Wilton House, and one's misgivings are not relieved by reading at the end of the report of the experiment and ofitssuccessfulissuethatitis to "be remembered that success of the kind indi- cated can only be achieved by masters in the art of Grape culture, and amateurs and lovers of change generally would not act wisely by rushing headlong into a similar method of culture. If they have good results in the good old way let them be content to travel in it ; it is only on a small scale, and experimentally, that these innovations can be wisely indulged, however well the above-named practice has answered at Wilton." It will appear to the general reader that if any gardener succeeds better by one plan than another there is no reason why others should succeed 'Jn the same way. For my part I can get charcoal and lime rubbish, kc, more easily than good turf. I would want proportionally less of it, and I might put the practice to the test if it was not for the last few sentences I have quoted. I thought nothing of cow manure and leaves at the begin- ning, and said so, because it involved irrational principles, but Mr. Challis' borders do not, for although they are extremely artificial, they are based upon a more reasonable foundation. J. S. W. Pear Beurro Ranee. — We are now, second week in January, sending a few very nice fruits of this Pear to table for desert. They are of fair average size, and not so gritty as in some years ; the flavour, too, is very good indeed for a late Pear. We always get a good crop of this Pear on a west wall, but some years it does not ripen sufliciently well to send to table ; when such is the case it is valuable for culinary purposes. — J. C. C. Lord Derby Apple.— We find this to be one of the most profitable of kitchen Apples, but if we have the true variety it does not at all re- semble the Hawthornden, andis past its best long before Christmas. The trees rarely fail to bear, and the majority of the fruits are very large, conical in shape, and much ribbed. The colour is deep green when first gathered, and this, as the fruit ripens, changes to a rich orange-yellow. It is a first-rate Apple, and ought to be included in every collection. — I. 5122.— Apple trees and Stra-wrberries. — " G. H." (p. 10) asks which are the best Apple trees for gardens, bush or espalier, to which I would reply that much depends on the extent of the ground. If the garden is large and roomy, bushes are preferable, as they require no training or support, and, owing to their having a greater spread of branch and more leafage, they bear the most fruit. To keep them dwarf and restrict their growth, they ought to be on the paradise stock, which causes most sorts of Apples to form plenty of buds at an early stage and makes them prolific. For a garden of circumscribed space espaliers are desirable, as they require but little room and may be planted so as to form a back- ground or boundary to borders or quarters, and thus define and give character to the ground. The sorts of Strawberries that are the most serviceable 50 THE GARDEN [J^N. 19, 1884. to grow are Keen's Seedling and Vicomtesse Heri- cart de Thury for first gathering, then President, Sir J. Paston, and British Queen, to be succeeded by Elton, which is the latest of all, and very fine for preserving.— S. D. FIXING BLOWING SANDS. In parts of the country where the land borders the sea large quantities of sand are often blown up by the wind. This, in some instances, may not go far inland, but may form hills or ridges on or near the part on which it was first deposited. More particularly is this the case when the coast is mountainous ; but where level or nearly so, the sand gets distributed over a large estent of surface and the land becomes ruioed theiebj"^ for all useful purposes. Where the soil is good and fertile, as it often is near the sea, the loss on some estates from this cause alone is very great ; sometimes during a gale many acres will be covered in one night. A seaward wind will at times blow a good deal of it back, but, speaking from ob- servation of rather a large tract of sand, I must say that I never saw this happen to any great extent. I am acquainted with a good many acres of land which have been covered with sand in recent years, but I do not know of one acre which has been entirely or permanently cleared by wind blowing the sand back into the sea. It may be shifted about here and there, and this shifting tendency makes sea sandhills very difficult to deal with, as a piece planted or sown to-day may have ii feet or l feet of sand blown over it to- morrow, or one's work for weeks may be destroyed by sudden squalls. The question of dealing with this Land destroyer is an important one ; but where large tracts have been covered, little or no hopes need be entertained of clear- ing them. The only chance is to endea- vour to convert the sandy deposit into use- ful vegetable ground. Many modes of doing this have been from time to time proposed and tried, but the numbers of sterile sandhills still to be seen on various coasts iodicate that any at- tempts made to clothe them must have been unsuc- cessful. Those acquainted with the history of sea sandhills know that Brc-montier fixed 2U0(Ki(t acres of sand on the shores of the Gulf of Gas- cony by means of Pine trees, but many years ago Mr. C -R. Mansel Talbot, the owner of the Margam estate, tried the same plan, and the result was a failure. Probably the climate of the south-west of France was more congenial to the growth of such trees than that of the Welsh coast, but, be this as it may, there are plenty of sandhills here on which to experiment, and this Mr. Talbot has been doing for some considerable time back, lli^s Field of experiments extends along the coast from Morfa Colliery to the farm of Morfa- Bach, a distance of from 2 miles lo 3 miles, and in extent the sandhills occupy over 1200 acres. ()q the land side of this sand fences of upright boards, wattled hurdles, and rows of brushwood have been tried, but one and all of these only acted as temporary impediments to the sand, col- lecting it in ridges until the top was reached, when it blew on as before. Seed-sowing was then tried. Many bushels of Broom seed were sown, but no plants made their appearance. Many kinds of hardy Grasses recommended for the purpose by seed firms and others were also tried, but the few which managed to germinate and spring into life soon perished. Weeds, which are said to luxuriate where nothing else will exist, did not do so in this case. Sackfuls of seed of Nettle, Pock, Thistle, &c., were collected in the byeways and sown as carefully in the sands as if they had been pedigree wheat, but without result; very little of the seed was allowed to re- main quiet long enough to germinate. At that time accounts reached us of the wonderful crops of Prickly Comfrey which were said to be secured from waste places. It was stated to do well where nothing else would grow, and we therefore thought the sandhills would just be the place for it. Only a limited quantity was planted, but the plantg never increased in size, and after existing for a time disappeared. At last Mr. Talbot suggested transferring some of the Grass which grows here and there on the mounds to the bare spacer, and this has been done now for three years with success. This Grass is commonly known as Bent, and botanically as Calamagrostis arenaria (syn., Ammophila are- naria), and is very hardy. It grows in the pure sandhills with the greatest luxuriance, and the greatest degree of heat or drought or the severest cold does not affect it in the least. In hot sum- mer weather, when the sand is so warm that one can hardly bear it, this Grass remains healthy and green, a result doubtless due to its roots run- ning down many feet in depth. On many of the without losing a single plant, and it is only a small corner here and there which we have ever had to plant a second time. Altogether, this plan of dealing with sandhills is superior and cheaper than any we have ever seen tried or read of, and its success is unquestionable. J. MuiK. Margam Park, Taiback, Glamorgaiishire. Books. WOODS, F0KE3TS, AND ESTATES OF PERTHSHIRE.* If the woods, forests, and estates of every county in the British Isles were dealt with in the same thorough manner as Mr. Hunter has ia this work The " Stcu-art " Larch at Uonskeid. Height, 97Jeet; girth, lljeei at 1 Joot from the ground. mounds this Grass grows in close masses, and from these the young plants are taken for fresh planta- tions. They are dug up with a spade and with a few roots attached to them. At the same time holes are made about 3 feet apart all over the bare surface of the sand with an iron- pointed dibble. This implement is about as thick as one's arm, and makes a hole from 1 ft. to 18 inches deep. There is a projecting piece of iron at this distance from the point, by which it is driven down with the foot— no diffi- cult matter^into the loose sand. Into each hole a handful of the Grass is inserted with the roots as far down as they can be got, and then the hole is closed by the heel of the planter. During the last three years over 500 acres have been thus planted here at a cost of about 7s. per acre. That planted three years ago on the most sterile and unsettled surfaces is now a verdant mass which no wind or storm can effect. The planting is done between September and April; we have frequently planted patches of four acres and five acres done those of Perthshire, we should be in posses- sion of such an array of facts concerning arbori- culture as would be invaluable to the present and future generations of tree planters. It is evident that the country at large is becoming more and more alive to the importance of tree planting and reafforesting, and the production of this useful volume corroborates the fact. It has a special in- terest not only for those who are immediately con- cerned in tree culture and the management of estates, but being popular in character, it may be read with interest by such of the general public as care at all for sylvan beauty. Every page of the book, and they number upwards of 500, is replete with interesting and valuable information re- specting tree growth, and bears evidence of the large amount of labour and research which Mr. * " Woods. Forests, ami Estates of PerthUiire, with Sketches of the Pi'incipal Families in the County." By Thomas Hunter, Editor Pertfishire ComtUutionat. Illus- trated. Perth: Henderson, Robertson, & Hunter; Edin- burgh : Wm. Brown ; Glasgow : Thos. Murray & Son, Jan. 19, 1884.] THE GARDEN 51 Hunter has brought to bear on his work. He has gleaned quite a store of facts concerning woods and forests and their management from experi- enced foresters and others with whom his re- search has brought him in contact ; consequently the book embodies a variety of opinions as to the methods of carrying out forestry operations. In selecting the great midland county of Scot- land as the basis of his work, Mr. Hunter was probably aware that it was the most important from an arboricaltural standpoint. It was the landlords of Perthshire— notably the Athole and Breadalbane families and Mr. Menzies, of Cul- dares, who introduced the Larch — who were the first to carry into practice the principles of modern forestry, and to show to their brother landlords the importance of planting waste lands upon an extensive scale. It was in Perthshire, too, where the most promising of our newer coniferous trees first found a home, and it is there that the best specimens in Scotland are, as a whole, to be found. In tracing the work of these planters, therefore, Mr. Hunter is virtually tracing the history of Scottish forestry generally, and presenting us with a picture showing the vast changes which have been effected on the face of the country during the past one hundred years. Not the least interesting and important chap- ters in the book are those devoted to the history of the county families of Perthshire and their estates. These properties include those of Athole, Blair Drummond, Monteith, Drum- mond Castle, Castle Menzies, Dnpplin, Scone, Moncriefie, Keir, and Taymouth, all of which are graphically described by the author. There are altogether nearly one hundred properties de- scribed more or less minutely, and as the work is the result of personal visits, some idea may be formed of its extent and the labour it must have entailed. In describing the places mentioned, Mr. Hunter has enumerated the most remarkable ex- amples of fine tree growth connected with them, and generally he gives the present dimensions of the specimens, and the dates at which they were planted. The introductory chapter points out the solemnising influence of woods, their effect on the landscape, their climatic influence, and com- mercial importance. And after recounting the destruction of the woods during feudal times, Mr. Hunter proceeds to note the efforts at improve- ment, and refers to various Acts of Parliament by which planting was at one time made compulsory, concluding this interesting chapter with a state- ment of the acreage at present under wood, and the pecuniary value of the woods in Perthshire, which he estimates, at a low valuation, as nearly three and a half millions. The book is illustrated by copious engravings of old or notable places of interest in the county. For the annexed illustration of the famous " Stewart Larch " at Bonskeid, planted by Dr. Stewart more than 100 years ago, and which we introduce here, we are indebted to Mr. Hunter. This fine tree was also illustrated by Mr. Michie, in his treatise on the Larch. Its dimensions are as follows : At 1 foot from the ground its girth is 12 feet, at 5 feet its girth is 9 feet, and at 12 feet it girths 8 feet 9 inches, while the height is 97 feet, and contains 190 cubic feet of timber. There is a useful index given to the old and notable trees mentioned in the work. This in- teresting volume forms a welcome addition to works on forestry. BOOKS RECEIVED. The Botanic Stand, by Thomas Twining. David Bogue. Hardy Perennials, by J. Wood. Bazaar Office, 170, Strand. Report of the Smithsonian Institution. ■Washington, 1883. Variations in Nature, by Thomas Meehan. Salem Press, Salem, Klass. Wright's Book of Povltrji (popular edition). Cassell * Co. niustraled Book of the Do:), by Vero Shaw. Cassell & Co Notes on the Genus Macrozamia, by 0. Moore, F. L.S Sydney. Paxtem's Flounr Garden, vol Ji., by Thomas Balnes. Cassell & Co., London. Bulbs and Bull) Culture, part 6, by D. T. Fish. 1. Upcott Oill, 170, Strand. NARCISSUS FARMING. Theke may be, or there may not be, a great future for the British farmer in the production of jam ; but beyond doubt the agriculturist must make the most of every market he can find a profit in. Possibly a hint may be taken from what is being done in the Soilly Islands. So well are these ifles guarded from chilling winds, that only once in ten years or so are they covered with a mantle of snow, and then only for a short time. The pro- blem the Scillonian agriculturists had to face was more particularly the limited land area available for the plough. True, there were 150 isles and rocks, but the cultivable soil only amounted to Eome 2000 acres. The farms ^were very small, and if they were to supply their tenants with the wherewithal to live as civilised man pre- fers to live nowadays, they must be made to pay to the full extent of their capability. New Pota- toes were grown, and that with success ; but if a frost did come to destroy the tender shoots that had boldly emerged from the black soil, it was all over with the year's agricultural prospects. One cold night was suflicient to install black care as an unwelcome yet undeniable guest in a score of homesteads. Several years ago it occurred to the late Mr. Augustus Smith, whose intelligent interest in hor- ticulture is well known and has left a permanent monument of itself in the Abbey gardens at Tresoo, to test the capacity of the island soil for produc- ing the Narcissus. The plant was introduced and grown more or less widely, scarcely with hope of profit at first. It is probably not more than six years ago when the first consignment of Lilies fron the Cassiterides found their way to Covent Garden. Now some of the large growers at Scilly have as many as 200,000 bulbs, each supporting on a long stem the beautiful flower so much valued for house and church decoration. What this may mean in the way of prosperity can be roughly estimated when we learn that the Narcis- sus has sold for Is. 6d. per bunch of a dozen in the closing days of December. Also itis to benoted that the bulbs multiply rapidly ; they double, treble, and even at times quintuple in one year. As a climax to all this good portion, there is no reason to suppose that Scilly need fear competi- tion of a dangerous sort. Holland devotes thousands of acres to the culti- vation of Narcissus bulbs, and is, of course, to be approached only with trembling in the matter of Tulips ; but Holland is not ready to send flowers to London so early in the year, and for a long time to come must, perforce, turn a deaf ear to the pecuniary allurements of Covent Garden. The Riviera dl Ponente and the gardens of Mentone might alarm the Cassiterides ; but then the sup- ply from the region of the Esterelles is stopped, tapped, and even exhausted at Paris, where flower prices are high ; and even if any Soleil d'Ors or Paper-whites get through to London, they are surpassed in beauty and in favour with " the trade " by the Gulf Stream Narcissus. Guernsey grows Lilies ; but the Channel island, although it is well ahead with its Radishes, does not come up to time with Scilly in its consignments of this flower. Consequently, for the early Narcissus, Scilly has practically no rivals in the field. The Narcissus farm at Rocky Hill is well worth a visit. The land devoted to the flower is fenced with deep, thick, dark green hedges of Pyra- cantha, all trimly cut, which form also a plea- sant contrast to the bright tender green of the Narcissus leaf. Here the plant grows luxuriantly in long rows of beds, and where the shelter is most complete the stalks are sometimes a yard in length. Nothing is much pleasanter for those who care for flower gathering thantospendanhourortwo plucking the fresh crisp stalks. They are set side by side in deep, round, gathering baskets. Thus collected, they are conveyed to the farmhouse, sorted, and tied in bunches. A dozen stalks go to a bunch, and some little experience is necessary to attain perfection in the art of tying them up satisfactorily. Fifty or sixty or seventy bunches make op each basket, which is then ready for for- warding to Covent Garden. A prettier farming industry it would be hard to imagine. An additional charm lies in the fact that all these fair flowers are blooming when the days are shortest and dreariest. Then there is something of a charm in the reflection that so much floral beauty flourishes within a stone's throw of the Atlantic when in its wildest and stormiest moods. The hill-side nooks in the Cassiterides were always delightful ; but they are more so now that every yard of favouring soil is jealously guarded as the home of a flower hardly anywhere excelled in simple grace and loveliness. The Narcissus has brought brighter days to the Scillonian farmer ; and if the farmers of the larger island keep their eyes open, jam, or some- thing else, may do for them what the Narcissus is doing for Scilly. — St James' Gazette. QUESTIONS. 5129.— Apple trees —What is the best treatment for canker in Apple trees ?— G. li. 6130.— Stra-wberries.— Should I dig between the rows of Strawberries, or should I leave them alone ?— G. H. 6131.-Zenobla ppeclosapulverulenta— Will you kindly inform me where I can obtain a plant of this shrub, as figured by you on Dtcember 29?— W. F. J. 5132.— Wall climber under trees.— 'Win someone kindly give me the name of a wall climber that would thrive under ti ees 1 I wish to clothe a wall and would like a quick grower. — A. M. 6133— Scale on Peaches-Can any of yourreadera tell me the best way to get rid of broan scale on Peach trees ? I have tried different sorts of insecticides, but without success.— Young gardener. 6134.-Yort and Lancaster RoEe.-Would anyone kindly inform me as to how many varieties there are of th s old historic Kose, and where their descriptions may be had, not having been able to find any notice of them in any catalogue ?- J. U. Shabpe, 21, Uerriet Street, P.S. Qlasffovj. 5136.-lQsects In soil.— Is there any process by which the soil in which very small seeds are sown can be cleared of insects? If there is a remedy, a linowledge of it would be invaluable. The insects keep buirowing in the soil dis- turbing the seeds and covering them to a greater depth than is needed.— Pkaoucal Gabdenir. 6136.— Sophronltis grandlflora.— 'Win any succes- ful grower of this kindly tell me its pr per treatment? I have two pans of it potted in lumpy fibrous peat, Sphag- num, and charcoal raised well up above the rims. At pre- sent they are in a temperature of from 60'' to 65° by day, with 6" or so less by night, and kept rather dry, treatment under which they annually make good grow ths. but fail to flower. They are now commenting to grow.— 1 . G. 6137.— Iron tanks.— Does water from iron tanks injure Cape Heaths and New Holland plants? My employer had two holding aliont 1000 gallons, sunk in the ground to receive the water from the houses. They were covered over with planks two years ago. I have an idea that this water is injurious to the plants. The tanks were previously used as boilers. I shall feel greatly obliged to any of your correspondetts who will kindly give me their opinions on the subject.— W. L. 6138.— Fermenting material in Peach bouses. -I am deficient in the way of heat in the early forcing Peach house. I propose increasing it with short stable manure, just throwing it in a heap in the house, so as to maintain a temperature of about 65" in the day time and .10° at night. Is there any danger of injuring the trees by this method of forcing? They aio not yet in bloom. Also would the hot manure injure the bloom at the time of setting ■;— T. S. 5139 — Ferns.- Will any of your correspondents kindly give me infurmatiim on the following points? I h.ave bought two plants of Todea superlia. I think they rciuire repotting; how often should they be repotted? Wh«t soil do they retiuire? Should the pots be well drained ? In pot- ting should the mass of roots which now covers the heap of soil be covered with the fresh material or not? Any other information respecting the culture of this fine Fern will be acceptable.— A Lover of Filmi Fekss. 6140.— Bud-dropping In Peaches —Will any reader of The GariieN kindly say why a leach tree which I have is dropping its buds ? It bore no fruit last season, but made a vigorous growth. It is planted inside on the front of the house on a good roomy border. It was liberally sup- plied with water and well syringed, owing to its being in- fested with red spider. At the fall of the leaves, which fell rather green, I turned on a slight bit of heat to try and ripen the wood, but the latter has not ripened well. The house during the whole time was given all the air possible, but no root sashes were taken off. During the frost some heat was allowed in the house, there being boxes of cut- tings and other plants in it. A tree planted in the same house on the back wall looks all right. I find nests of red spider here and there in the old tyings ; and I would also like to know it I can wash the tree over with a solution o( Fir tree oil ; if so, what proportion of it may be allowed to the gallon of water, or what is the best dressing I can give in order to get rid of the spider without Injury to the tree ? — IngniKEK. 52 THE GAKDEN [Jan. 19, 1884. ORCHIDS IN FLOWER. Leella anceps (.J. Speed).— A very good form, almost identical n1th that named Barkeri, which is considered to be the darliest coloured variety. Phalsenoptis ScblUerlana.— We have open just now a beautiful plant of this Phalrenopsis. One branched Bpike carries over 70 expanded blooms. We had also in bloom some days ago Odontoglossum sjTingoglossum and the most beautiful Lyeaste Skiimeri alba (true), >nth a very large pure white flower. — Vekvaet et Cie, Ghent. White Oattleya Trianse. — A flower of this choice Orchid has been sent to us by Mr. Elliott, of Selly Oak, together with a very fine variety of Cattleya Percivaliana — further evidence of its worth and beauty. It is somewhat singular that out of the thousands of Cattleya Trianse plants that are imported and flowered in this country so few white ones crop up. Dendrobium aureum. — No Dendrobe can vie with this one as regards perfume, which is simply delicious, sweeter even and more powerful than that of Violets. The Orchid house at Kew is just now filled with its fragrance. Its quiet primrose-yellow flowers, with tawny lips, are not so attractive as those of other Dendrobes, but the plant is indispensable in every garden where the cream of winter-flowering plants is sought for. Its other name is D. heterocarpum. Cattleya "Warscewiezi delicata.— A three-flowered spike of this exquisitely beautiful variety has been sent us by Messrs. Thomson and Son, Tweedside Vineyard, Clovenfords. We call this form Warscewiezi delicata, as it comes nearest to the Cattleya known under that name as far as colour is concerned, but the flowers are larger and the sepals and lips broader, the former being 2i inches across, and the whole flower measures just upon 6 inches in diameter. The colour is the most delicate mauve, with the labellum washed with golden yellow in the throat. Dendrobium Plndleyanum.— This is a veritable gem amongst Dendrobes, and one that should be highly prized by those who possess it, especially as it is by no means a common plant. The delicate tones of the flowers are distinct from those of any other Dendrobe. The sepals and petals are waxy white, flushed with delicate pink; while the broad, shell-like labellum is yolk-of-egg colour, margined with white. In growth, too, it is unmistakeable, the stems, or rather pseudo-bulbs, being distinctly separated into nodes. It is a dwarf and free grower, and an abundant flowerer. Some fine blossoms of it have been sent to us by Mr. Macdonald, Woodlands House, Perth, together with blossoms of the superb hybrid D. Ainswortlii and early blooms of D. Wardianum. Sale of Orcliids.— On the nth inst. a large sale of Orchids, numbering about 800 lots, from Messrs. Sander & Co., St. Albans, took place at Messrs. Protheroe & Morris' rooms, Cheapside. Some unusually high prices were obtained for a few of the lots, the most noteworthy being 100 guineas for an enormous mass of Cattleya Perci- valiana, said to be a very fine variety. Two fine plants of the new Saccolabinm illnstre, a fine variety of S. giganteum, fetched 21 guineas and fifteen guineas respectively, and amass containing 100 bulbs of the new Cattleya Gaskelliana fetched 16 guineas. All the plants were in excellent condition, and realised good prices. " Orchids from Perth. — Amongst a beautiful gathering of seasonable Orchids sent us by Mr. Macdonald from his choice collection at Wood- lands House, Perth, the following are the most noteworthy, viz. : Phatenopsis Stuartiana, a fine branching spike, representing a variety remarkable for the profusion of spots on the sepals, and with flowers almost as large as those of the nobilis variety ; Cypripedium Ilaynaldianum, a near neighbour of the commoner C. Lowi ; Oncidium excavatum, a showy Oncid, and one well worth growing on account of its distinctness ; Masde- vallia ignea, undoubtedly the most useful of all the species for winter flowering, being so bright and persistent and a free grower ; Cypripedium baibatum nigrum, the flnest of the several varie- ties of this well-known Lady's Slipper, the pouch of the flower being about twice the ordinary size and of a shining purplish black; Laslia autumnalis atrorubens, an uncommonly deeply coloured form : Odontoglossum Eossi majus, a fine cluster of large beautifully-coloured blooms ; Laslia harpophylla, an indispensable Orchid where variety of colour is desired, the brilliant orange-vermillion tint of its blossoms being so unusual amongst Orchids ; and the same may be said of Sophronitis grand i- flora, which Mr. Macdonald appears to grow ad- mirably. Ne'W Oattleya — The following is a descrip- tion of a very fine Cattleya just flowering with me the first time ; the petals are fully 3 inches wide and the sepals are 1:^ inches. These are of the purest white ; the back sepal stands erect, thus mak- ing the outline of the flower almost a circle ; the lip is 2 inches either way, and is slightly shaded with amethyst throughout its entire length, with a large yellow blotch in the throat. Altogether it is a most superb Cattleya. — H. James, Castle Ni/rsery, Zon-i'r Norn-ood. NewLselia. — At Wednesday's sale in Stevens's Rooms there was a marvellously fine new L«lia put up for sale from Messrs Backhouse & Sons, York. The flowers are of surpassing beauty, and may be best described as a magnified form of L. autumnalis, though some regard it as a hybrid between L. furfuracea and autumnalis. The flower is twice the size of the ordinary forms of either these species, the sepals and petals being very broad and flat, of waxy texture, white, heavily flushed with crimson-lake. It has been named, L. autumnalis grandiflora, an appropriate name, though in the catalogue it was stated that the plant was worthy of a more distinctive name, such as L. intermedia. The plant was a flne one, possessing four leading growths. We understand that it was not sold. Sale of flo'werlngr Orchids. — On Wed- nesday an important sale of Orchids in flower took place at Stevens's Rooms, Covent Garden. There were about .370 lots in the sale, which in- cluded some choice things, such as the white Lycaste Skinneri, which fetched £12 12s. ; Phalje- nopsis Dayana, jf6 Gs. ; P. intermedia (small plant), .£3 10s ; Odontoglossum Edwardi, a flne plant with tall, branching spike, £.1 ; 0. Ander- soni, a fine form, £0 fls. ; Cypripedium villosum, well grown and profusely flowered, £9 9s. There was also a singularly fine Oncidium, which bore a long branching spike, carrying numbers of large olive-brown flowers ; no one seemed to know what species it was ; therefore, it is either new or very rare ; it fetched £1 Is,. Messrs. Backhouse, of York, sent a fine collection, consisting chiefly of Lx'lia autumnalis atrorubens, which they grow so admirably. Some fine masses, carrying a dozen or more spikes, were the centre of attraction, though the largest only fetched £6 16s. 6d. annually of a few of the leading sorts would be about as follows : Scariet Dae Van Thol, 800,000 ; White Pottebakker, 300,000 ; Golden Prince, 500,000 ; White Queen Victoria, .500,000 ; and Thomas Moore, 100,000. The total number of flowering bulbs of the Tulip yearly exported by Dutch florists amounts to over 5,000,000 bulbs. The commercial value for a flower at the present day of a new variety of early Tulip, if of unusu- ally fine quality, would be about £1, being only about one-tenth the value of a new Hyacinth. The reason for this difference is that it would take fifty years to get up a stock large enough to send out ; while with a Hyacinth, which multiplies rapidly, the same result could be produced in ten years. English flo'wers in Borneo.— The follow- ing is from a paper read by Dr. Houghton the other evening before the members of the Horticul- tural Club, in Henrietta Street, Covent Garden : ' The flowers I have grown are of Roses the Tea orts, including Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon, and many others, all of which did well and flowered in great profusion. The soil, however being sandy, had to be strengthened with burnt earth and cow manure for the better sorts ; but there are many beautiful kinds growing almost wild which attain a great size both of flower and tree, and whole hedges may be seen covered with a profusion of flowers scenting the air with their perfume. I have also grown from English seeds or bulbs plants of Portulaca, which does splen- didly. Phlox, Lobelia, Petunia, Pelargonium, Gla- diolus, Begonia, Gloxinia, Eucharis, Coleus, Bou- gainvillea. Balsam, &c., besides native flowers in- numerable, the names of which it would take too long to enumerate, and others Imported from India and elsewhere. The Pitcher Plant or Monkey Cup grows in great variety and to a large size, some of the flowers holding as much as a pint. The Cala- dium also grows well, and Coleus and Begonia are found growing wild on some of the mountains. Ferns I need not say grow in immense variety and to perfection, while Orchids of every kind and hue flourish in abundance, having found there a natural home. NOTES or THE WEEK. National Ohrysanthemum Society.— Such is the title by which the Borough of Hack- ney and Stoke Newington Chrysanthemum So- cieties will henceforward be known. From a cir- cular sent to us by the secretary, we learn that it has long been considered desirable that the Chry- santhemum should have some central organisation as regards exhibitions of this flower, and it has, therefore, been decided to found a society under the above name which would embrace the Borough of Hackney Society and expand its sphere of operations so as to justify the term "national." It is to be hoped that with the formation of this Na- tional Society, the much-needed reform in Chry- santhemum exhibiting will receive attention, and also that the plants will be grown in a more na- tural way than they hitherto have been. Early Tulips.— In a paper on the Tulip, read the other evening by Mr. F. Robinson, before the Manchester Horticultural Improvement So- ciety, he said, " that an approximate estimate of the numbers of early Tulips sent from Holland Birds and berries. — It is very certain that birds do not always choose severe weather for their attacks on berries, for in a few days they completely cleared our trees of an abundant crop. This was especially so in the case of hips on the Sweet Brier and berries on the Cotoneaster micro- phylla and on C. Simonsi. Even sparrows and chaflinches attacked these with vigour, leaving the refuse on the ground for us to clear up, and the clearing was done so quickly that I was hardly pre- pared to see the trees bare so soon. Holly berries, though not abundant, have not as yet been dis- turbed. In Apple orchards birds had a grand feast this season. As the Apples laid in heaps, the latter were often quite black with blackbirds eating them. — J. C. C. Will Messrs. Dammann & Co. kindly send us their full address ? Violets (F. E. O— Try Mr. Ware, Hale Farm Nui'sery, Tottenham, London. Lattice Leaf plant.— Enclosed is a leaf of Ouviranda fenestralis. The plant I have bears about 60 leaves on it; some of the leaves .are 4 inches longer than the one I send. It is growing in a p-an 10 inclies across and 5 inches deep. — E. THOnNHILL, Heaton Nurserij, near Manchester. ^„* A very tine leaf, about 1 foot in length and well de- veloped. Perhaps our correspondent will describe hia mode of treatment.- ED. Naming plants.— Four ktnd» of plants or flowers only can be named at one time, and this only when good specimens are sent. Names of plants.— H. n. Woorf.— Senecio Petasites. We cannot name the shrub from the twig alone. It .appears to be Lonicera Standishi, Mrs. C. It (Osborne).— Uanm Irigynum.- Constant Beader.—Vo. 4 (&ent last week) ja Epacris fxserta, native of Tasm;\nia. T. W. T.- Acacia Farnesiana. II'. U.M.—l, Bignonia Pandora (Bot. M»g., 865) ; 2, Pryophyllum calyciuum. Mrs. iTe^/i/.— Epime- dium piiniatuni (with root). Send Azalea when in Hower. Plants iu deal bo.\ (no name) — 1, Lrclia anceps ; 2, apparently Drac.-cna gracilis ; 3, Phlebodium aureum ; 4, Cypripedium insigne. T. S. Moss,— A species of Lycaste, probably Schilleriana. THE GARDEN 53 No. use. SATUnOAY, Jan. Se, 1884. Vol XXV " This is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The iRT ITSELF IS ^ATVRE."— Shakespeare. WINTER FLOWERS ON THE RIVIERA. On entering Italy, by the Goeschenen-Airolo tunnel on the St. Gothard line, it is strange to find how brown, dry, and withered np by frost and drought are the southern slopes of the Alps this winter, when all to the north is moist and green- Still more welcome, then, is the warmth and verdure that greet one on reaching the shores of the Mediterranean, where no stormy blast or withering frost has as yet (mid-January) touched any tender plant in the more sheltered bays. Feasting one's eyes on the blaze of colour, so welcome to English eyes wearied of greys and greens, the mass of crimson monthly Roses is glorious, and the abundance of other Roses is de- cidedly greater than usual ; the individual blooms of such sorts as Marechal Niel, Gloire de Dijon_ Safrano, Souvenir d'un Ami, Reve d'Or, all ex- ceed in size and beauty the winter standard Habrothamnus NewcUi and fasciculatus are rich glowing bushes of red and scarlet. Datura arborea hangs its great white trumpets in pro- fusion, singularly free from any bruise or stain. Salvias, Echeverias, Anthemis, Iberis, and a host of other well-known flowers deck the borders, and what surprised and pleased me most, a large bush of Clerodendron fragrans, fully 3 feet through, is well covered with its fragrant heads of flower and fresh green leaves, showing clearly that all who stew this plant in close stoves in England are doing it a great injustice, and robbing themselves of a great pleasure. Beds of Polyanthus Narcissus, edged with the pale grey Vinca acutiloba spraying over into the bed among the upright leaves and white and gold flower- heads, give a very charming effect worthy of imi- tation at home ; and this Vinca, it should be noted, flowers more abundantly than the larger common form of V. major. On sunny walls Bougainvillea spectabilis already shows its purple bracts, and Heliotropes scent the air in every garden. Marie Louise and Parma Violets this year are in much greater beauty than the various varieties of the purple Violet that enjoy a little more moisture and less sun, and Camellias also seem as if a re- spite from a cloudless sun would be welcome. The effects of last spring's severe snowstorm and frost have been outgrown incredibly ; it is only by exa- mining closely that any trace can now be found. Even such tender trees as Ficus elastica and F. australis have reclothed themselves thickly with fresh leaves and shoots, and now look all the better for the severe check they received. Owing to the absence of any rain this winter. Anemones and many other wild flowers are so far conspicu- ous by their absence, but I shall hope to report more fully hereafter. E. H. Woodall. tint to the whole tree. This morning I cut a nice bud of Madame Falcot Rose from an open wall ; while yellow Crocuses are opening fast, and Violets are in unusual abundance. Anemone f ulgens is showing bloom here, and a friend living in the outskirts of Dublin has it fully in blossom We have had no frost since December 23, and the lowest shade temperature since the beginning of the year was 38.4° ; while we have had almost a fortnight without rain — a most unusual circum- stance for frost and rain to be both absent for any considerable period in winter. To-day a change seems impending, as the wind is blowing, and we have heavy showers of rain and hail, with barometer and thermometer both falling rapidly. — Green- wood I'm, Monkstown. Plants In bloom near Dublin.— News- papers of all kinds are and have been teeming with instances of the mildness of the season, and at the risk of increasing a perhaps already too large collection of examples of that fact I submit the following: On this day week (16th inst.) I saw a Laburnum in almost full flower near Dun- drum, County Dublin. The bunches were very small, but so numerous as to impart quite a yellow TOO MUCH PROTECTION. Those who have fruit trees, like Apples, Pears, Cherries, and especially Peaches and Nectarines, in cool houses and screens, will do well to remem- ber at this season of the year that the value of such structures consists in a large degree in using them solely for protective purposes in spring, and not for pushing the trees into flower too early in the season. I am speaking of unheated houses. It is needless to disguise the fact that these have proved a failure in many instances when they have not been well managed, and have defeated the very object they were intended to effect, inasmuch as, by not being sufficiently ventilated, or being kept too close and warm early in the season, the trees, always ready to start after the new year, are forced into flower loo early, and severe frosts, that a glass roof was not suflicient to exclude, has killed the embryo crop. I could name many instances in which this has occurred, and also others in which crops have never been missed, because the houses were kept open and cool, and the trees re- tarded till so late in the spring that the glass roof was suflicient protection against any frost that might be expected. It cannot be too fully realised that a very few degrees of frost during one night only will completely destroy the bloom of nearly all kinds of fruit trees ; secondly, that blossom pro- duced under glass is always more sensitive than that produced outdoors ; and, thirdly, that a glass roof alone is not equal to excluding more than four or flve degrees of frost, particularly after a cold dull day. In our own Peach houses, thoroughly closed in, but not heated except when the trees are in bloom, two or three degrees of frost are registered when 6° are recorded by the thermometer behind the wall outside ; and in severer frosts Strawberries in pots are hard frozen. These facts suggest the course to pursue — viz., not to force the trees in the least, but keep them back from flowering as late as possible — till April at the earliest. 10°, 12°, and 15° of frost are often experienced in March and April in this country, and the trees may at any time be caught in these months if too forward. At this season " retard " should be the watchword. Let fruit trees be as late as they like in flowering and setting ; there is always plenty of time to ripen the crop under glass, and people do not plant early crops in un- heated houses. As a rule, the main difficulty seems to be to keep the crop late enough, even with late varieties ; and earlier fruit can always be secured by planting early sorts. For these reasons. Peach screens and the like should be amply ventilated. One we know, in which crops are produced from old trees covered in the most regular way, owing to the trees never being pushed, has continuous front lights 3 feet deep, and top lights of the same dimensions, worked by a rod and lever ; hence the trees can be exposed as freely as if they were on the open wall, and at other times kept as warm as desired in flne weather. The protection of open walls is quite another matter. I will not say that too much protection can be afforded by textile material only — the only means, as a rule, of sheltering trees on walls and in the open. Much discretion must, however, be exercised in the use of protections consisting of frigi domo and hexagon netting, and the like. The hairy frigi domo affords the best protection of any kind of cloth covering yet invented, but it is thick and dark, and cannot be endured long at a time. It blanches the blossom and the leaves. Like all other fabrics, however, of cotton, wool, or other materials, itsnon-conducting power is greatly lessened, if not destroyed, by wet and frosty rime, and it is then diflicult to roll up and down, or take off and put on. The perfection of a covering of this kind would be a semi-transparent material, waterproof outside, and lined with hair or wool inside. A frigi domo glazed outside would meet this end. I remember seeing once gummed linen, nearly as clear as ground glass, for protecting fruit trees, but its non-conducting power was weak, and no better than tarpaulin, which, though excluding wet, is but a poor protection against frost, a dry woollen material surpassing all other fabrics in that respect. Peaches and other fruits outdoors suffer while in flower from other evils than frost, namely, hail, sleet, and piercing winds. There is but a poor chance of a crop of fruit if the trees are exposed to these evils when in flower, and it is an excellent plan to keep hexagon netting down at such times. Under such circumstances the tem- perature is usually low, and, there being little or no growth, the trees do not suffer by being covered up day and night till the storm abates. One fertile source of injury must never be over- looked in the case of trees actually frozen when in flower, and that is, sudden exposure to sun- shine and a sudden thaw. A frost that might effect no serious injury to the blossoms will be fatal if the trees catch the sunshine fairly while the frost is on them. Hence on walls protected by material which the frost has penetrated, it should never be removed till the trees are thoroughly thawed, and the crop may often be saved in such cases by syringing the trees freely with perfectly cold water from an outdoor tank as soon as the thermometer on the fruit wall rises to 33^ or 34°, or just above the freezing point. It is useless applying the moisture sooner, as it will only freeze and make matters worse. It is necessary that the tree should be kept shaded from the sun till quite thawed. J. S. W. Ne'W Zealand 'Veronicas. — These attain on the south coast the dimensions of large shrubs, and are very useful for supplyingcut flowers in Sep- tember, but they may be turned to good account as pot plants for indoor decoration in autumn and winter ; for this purpose young plants, propagated from cuttings the preceding autumn and planted out in spring, like Chrysanthemums, make very flne bushy little plants covered with flowering shoots. They should be lifted in September, potted in just sufficiently large pots to hold the roots, and kept shaded and moist until well rooted. Under the shade of vines will suit them well until they begin to grow freely, when they may be transferred to a cool, airy house, and will flower freely in the temperature of a conservatory. — J. G. H. Plants for -warm moist walls.— In glass structures kept at a stove temperature there are several plants that readily adhere to damp sur- faces and cover them with foliage. A couple very suitable for such a purpose are Marcgraavia para- doxa and Pothos celatocaulis, which to a certain extent resemble each other from the peculiarity their leaves have of lying perfectly flat against the surface of the wall to which the plant is attached. The Marcgraavia has been longest grown in gardens ; but, as commonly seen, repre- sents but its juvenile stage, in which the leaves are roundish, unequally sided, and about 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter, with but a little distance between each. That the adult form is altogether different was proved in my case by a plant which had reached a height of about 10 feet, and then pushed out large divided leaves somewhat like those of Monstera deliclosa. It was curious to watch the gradual increase in the stem from about the thickness of pack-thread at the bottom to the size of one's thumb at the top. Though in this particular case the adult leaves were produced from the upper portion, it does not appear to be of common occurrence, as I have seen a large space 54 THE GAKDEN [Jan. 26, 1884. covered without any signs of alteration, so that for practical purposes the smaller entire leaves may be regarded as the only ones which the plant produces. Pothos celatocaulis holds firmly to the wall in just the same manner, but the leaves are oblong in shape and have an upward tendency, besides being somewhat larger. They are also generally so close together as to overlap at the base, while in the case of the Marcgraavia the points tend downwards, and, where close enough, overlap there instead of at the bottom. Where, as is often the case in hot structures, the wall is saturated with moisture, these two plants are just at home, growing rapidly and pushing out roots from all parts of the stem. — H. P. PLANTS IN FLOWER. Primroses of all hues and in beautiful condition come to us from Newry, and no gathering in April could possibly be finer. Besides Primroses, there are gold-laced and Felf Polyanthuses, presumably from beds of seedlings, thus showing how carefully ilessrs. Rodger, McClelland select and save their seeds of these flowers. Open-air floTFCrs.— Tlie following were brought me in bloom from the country thi^ mon-ing. viz. ; Rose buds, Primroses, Polyanthuses, Mignonette, Wallflowers, Chry- santhemums, Snowdrops, Candytufts, white Stocks, Lau- rustiuus, and London Pride. These, I think, will speak for themselves as to the extreme mildness of the season.— T. Percy Taylor, Cotchester. Czar Violets.— From Normai.by Ball, Cleveland, Mr. W. G. Carson has sent us some very fine blooms of this Violet, which he says he has just gathered in the open, .is a proof of the mildness of the season in that part of York- shire. The same plants, he adds, have furnished a picking twice a week since the middle of October, and even now are sending up a perfect forest of flower-buds. Anemones in flower. — From plants raised from seed sown in May last in an open border we have, during the first part of the new year, been cutting an abundant supply of flowers, which are most acceptable at this dull season. Seeing how little trouble it is to raise Anemones from seed, it does seem strange that they are not more generally grown in quantity than they are. Young plants, I notice, always flower more freely and strongly all through the autumn and winter than old ones. — J. C. C. Forced Saxifrages — The well-known Saxi- fraga (Megasea) ligulata submits willingly to being forced into flower early, and its flowers are useful in a cut state at this dull season. In the Horticultural Society's garden at Chiswick it is successfully treated in this way, and a group of well-flowered plants enliven one of the houses. It is a plant, however, that disHkes too much heat; in fact, it merely requires glass protection to bring it into bloom several weeks before it usually flowers outside ; for early blooming, plants require to be lifted from the open border and potted in autumn before frosts set in. The first Daffodil we have had sent to us this year comes from Messrs. Rodger, McClelland's nursery ; it is one of the Pseudo-Narcissi, not, however, the Tenby Daffodil (obvallaris), which usually is the first to bloom, but a tall, self- coloured form, either major or maximus. The flowers necessarily are not quite in character, though they are fully developed, and the stalks are as much as 18 inches high. Mr. Smith does not say whether they are bona- fide open-air flowers or not. To have large golden DaUodils on our table in the third week of January is to us an unusual occurrence. Odontoglossum adspersum.- This is the name given to a most remarkable Orchid which has cropped up in Messrs. Sander v^ Co.'s nur- sery at St. Albans. It is presumably a natural hybrid between O. Rossi majus and 0. maculatum, inasmuch as it partakes of the characters of both these species. The bulb most resembles that of maculatum, as it is flattish and thin edged, and the foliage, too, is a good deal like that of macu- latum. The flower, however, more resembles that of Rossi majus, though it is distinct in form, and possesses a strange, though charming combination of colours. The sepals are mottled much in the same way as in Rossi majus, but the lateral petals are half blotched with chocolate on a pale ground and half of a beautiful soft canary-yellow, while the labellum, which is more heart-shaped than that of typical Rossi majus, is pure white, a strik- ing combination of colours, such as we have seen in no other Orchid except that of the new variety of Vanda insignis named Schroederiana. This novelty is quite unique, and probably will always remain so, and we learn that Mr. W. Lee, of Downside, Leatherhead, is the fortunate possessor of it. The -white Lyoaste Skinneri.— A flower of the best form of this rare and chastely beautiful Orchid has been sent to us by Mr. R. Grosset from Mr. Buchanan's collection, Cswald Road, Edin- burgh. The flower in question measures fully 6 inches across, and the sepals are over U inches in width. The lemon-tinted labellum is the only colour the flower possesses. It is not to be won- dered at that such a chaste flower is ss much sought after and fetches such a high price. This white form cropped up among a few imported plants. With this flower also comes a spike of a superb variety of Odontoglossum Rossi majus with large and heavily-.=potted blooms. Cut door flowers In January.— The fol- lowing flowers are now in full bloom here in the open air, viz. : — Abutilon Agathaca ccelestis Aponogeton distachyon Carnations Cowslips Crocuses Daphne inilica Calendula Meteor Double Daisies Eucalyptus globulus P'orgetmenots Heaths Hepaticas Jasmines laurustinuses Magnolia granditlora Narcissi 0-vlipa Periwinkles Primro-es(single and double) Polyanthuses Pansies Pyrus japonica (red and white) Bagged Robin Schiznstylis ccccinea Snowdrops Sweet Coltsfoot Wallflowers Violets Veronicas Geraniums Laurels These serve to indicate the mildness of this shel- tered spot. I do not think people can show many more in the Riviera.— John Woethington, Glyn-y-mel, Fishguard, South ^yaU•s. Cro-wn Anemones in the middle of January are indeed a luxury, and calculated to make us believe that spring is nearer than it really is. Mr. T. Smith has sent us not only these, but quantities of other flowers as well from Messrs. Rodger, McClelland's nursery at Newry. Beautiful as all are, however, the Crown Anemones are the most remarkable on account of their large size and brilliant and varied colouring. It is astonishing to see Anemone coronaria blooming so freelv in mid winter ; but only those who have gardens in favoured localities can hope to have it in such strikingly good condition. There is a knack in getting fine Crown Anemones at this season, and we wish Mr Smith or Mr. Burbidge, who also grows them so finely in Dublin, would divulge the secret of their success, if indeed secret there be in the matter. Many of our readers who live on the south and west coasts could have winter Anemones in per- fection if they chose. What they require is some information with regard to the particular time to sow, and the ultimate treatment which the plants need. It is not too much to say that the richest collection of hothouse exotics could not produce such a brilliant bouquet at this season as that which Mr. Smith has sent us, Melville's Snowdrops.— In the Royal Horticultural Society's garden at Chiswick there is a full set of Mr. Melville's seedling Snowdrops, planted near the rock garden. These Snowdrops seem to differ from others chiefly in their time of flowering, the interval between the flowering of the earliest forms to that of the latest extending over many weeks. At present the variety named praicox, the earliest of all, is in full bloom, and very pretty a good sized mass of it looks. The next earliest is just showing its flower-spathes above the leaves, while the foliage of the latest variety of all has scarcely yet peeped out of the ground. Hence these varieties are valuable, inas- much as they prolong the Snowdrop season. Last year we noticed that one or two of Mr. Melville's varieties had blooms decidedly superior in size, whiteness, and substance to those of the common Snowdrop. New Hellebores. — A gathering of new va- rieties of Hellebores has been sent to us from Messrs. Rodger, M'Clelland's nursery at Newry. Among them are two of the most beautiful we have yet seen. One named Commissioner Bcnary, a variety of H. gnttatus, has cup-shaped blooms with pure white sepals of rounded outline and of firm texture. These are profusely spotted on their inner surfaces with deep purple, which ren- ders them highly attractive, and the tender green of the young foliage enhances, their beauty. The next best form is named Frau Irene Heinneman, and seems to be a cross between H. guttatus and atrornbens, inasmuch as the flowers have deep rose-purple sepals copiously spotted as in gut- tatus. It is a most distinct and handsome Helle- bore, and certainly the best of this particular group. The pure white H. olympicus is likewise sent ; also one called Willie Schmidt, but which does not appear to differ at all from typical H. olympicus. Among the other Hellebores sent are the coppery H. purpurascens (true) and some very finely developed stems of H. atrorubens, the brightest in colour of all the Hellebores. Crocus Imperati — This beautiful autumn and winter flowering Crocus has been uncom- monly fine this year, doubtless on account of the bulbs having been thoroughly well ripened during the hot and dry August which we had last year. In the neighbourhood of London it is still enlivening many gardens. A few days ago we saw a fine mass of it on the rock garden at Chiswick, where, on a fully exposed knoll, it thrives to perfection. Some fine blooms of it have reached us from Mr. Smith, of Newry, among other beautiful open-air flowers. No other Crocus can vie with this one in beauty, and, indeed, few other flowers possess such a peculiar combination of colour. The fawn tint of the exterior of the petals, feathered with black, affords a strange, though beautiful, contrast to the bright violet-purple of the interior. Oattleya Trianae. — A three-flowered spike of a splendid variety of this Cattleya has been sent to us by Dr. Paterson, Fernfield, Bridge of Allan. The flowers measure upwards of 6 inches across the outspread petals, which are 2^ inches in width and of a delicate mauve. The lip is ex- tremely rich in colour, being of an intensely deep amethyst shaded with violet. It is large and shallow and stands out prominently. This spike. Dr. Paterson says, was cut from a large healthy plant bearing twenty bulbs, four of which have produced flower-spikes this season, and for the past two or three weeks have been the admiration of everyone. This plant was but a small seedling fifteen years ago. With this Cattleya came a large six-flowered spike of a fine form of Odonto- glossum Rossi majus— a fine example of good growth. Slsyrinchium grandiflorum. — Judging by a fine handful of blooms of this plant from Messrs. Rodger, McClelland's nursery, even milder weather is being experienced at Newry than we have in London, for we have seen no signs of bloom of the Satin Flower yet ; as the flowering season of this pretty little plant comes round we cannot refrain from extolling its delicate beauty. No occupant of the stove or greenhouse is so fra- gile, yet for all that it is capable of braving wintry winds and rains, and does not succumb even to frosts provided it is not too damp at the roots. Than flowers of the typical form, which are bell-like and of a deep carmine-purple shining with a satiny lustre, more charming subjects for a vase could not be found, the slender stems, carrying their flowers on thread-like stalks, being extremely graceful. As soon as one flower withers, too, another succeeds it, and this succession goes on for several days after the flowers have been cut and placed in water. A collection of hardy plants without this bright little Californian would be in- complete, and it is only in the coldest districts that it fails to flourish, and there even, if afforded a little protection, it will come to perfection. A short time ago a coloured plate of it was given in The G.\edbn together with its white variety. Jan. 26. 1884.J THE GARDEN 55 Indoor Garden. FOETUNE'S SAXIFRAGE. During a few weeks in the latter part of autumn there are not many plants that flower so prettily as Saxifraga Fortune!, an old plant in botanic gardens, though one comparatively little known in a general way. It is one of those plants that can- not be strictly called hardy, yet it is not really tender. In some localities in the southern counties it may be grown successfully with other hardy perennials, and in light soils, even if is killed by frost, it will shoot up again in the spring. As a general rule, however, it is best to treat it as a pot plant, more particularly as it flowers on the verge of winter when rains and winds are apt to spoil the beauty of its delicate spikes of flowers. It is a handsome plant even when out of flower, the best plants. The seed should be sown in spring, and as soon as the plants are large enough to handle they should be pricked ofl: in pans in much the same way as such plants as tuberous Be- gonias are treated. From this stage they require to be constantly shifted into pots larger and larger untU they reach the flowering stage, which will be by the autumn, when they should be in either 4^-inch or 6-inch pots. A quantity of plants of this size would be found invaluable to those who require showy plants for conservatory and room adornment, and for vases and jardinieres they are particularly suitable. The annexed illustration was sketched in Mr, Ware's nursery, at Tottenham, in the third week in October. The plant, one of the finest we have ever seen in the open air, was growing in a snug nook in the rock garden. It nestled beneath the shelter of a bush with rocks on either side of it, so that it was com- Saxi/Toga Fortunei. Drawn in the Eals Farm Nuneri/, Tottenham, October 20, 1383. foliage being large for a Saxifrage, of thick fleshy texture and of a very deep green, which shows off to the best advantage the myriads of white flowers which it bears. Well-grown pot plants bear spikes as much as 18 inches in height, bat out-of-doors it does not usually exceed half that height. The red- dish bracts with which the flower-stems are fur- nished add to the attrac- tiveness of the plant at flowering time. Its cul- ture in the open air is a simple matter, as it merely requires to be planted in light, rich, and well drained soil, such as may be found on all well-made rockeries. It is partial to shade and delights in plenty of moisture while in active growth. Pot plants need more attention ; they may be either raised from seeds or propagated by division of the rootstock. Seedlings make the Flower of Sttxi/rnga Fortunei. pletely protected from the weather. If grown out of doors such a place as this is just what the plant requires. q_ DESMODIUM GTRANS (MOVING PLANT). This belongs to a family of plants most of which possess little beauty ; neither can it be said that this species has anything in its flowers that are effective ; the interest attached to it lies in its leaves, which are constantly moving with the re- gularity of the pendulum of a clock, only much slower and in an opposite direction, the motion being alternately in an upward and downward dhrection. What it is that produces this continu- ous motion has caused a good deal of specula- tion amongst those interested in vegetable physio- logy ; its motion is not nearly so quick as that of the Sensitive plants —Mimosa sensitiva, M. pudlca, and others of that genus. True it is that this and other plants possessing singularity of habit rarely have flowers with fine colours, yet it is well that they should not be lost sight of by cultiva- tors ; of this there is some danger through the disposition that too often exists to give exclusive attention to things that are only noticeable for their highly coloured flowers. The cultivation of this Desmodinm is ex- tremely simple, as all it requires is a brisk heat and ordinary attention in the matters of soil, water, and air, and a little shade in bright wea- ther. It strikes freely from cuttings of the half ripened wood taken off at any time of the year when obtainable. Supposing its propagation is un- dertaken in the spring, cuttings consisting of points of the shoots a few inches in length cut to a joint, put singly in S-inch pots in sandy soil, the surface all sand, placed in a temperature of 70°, covered with a propagating glass, and kept moist and well shaded, will soon make roots, after which dispense with the glass, standing the plants in a fairly light place ; as soon as the small pots are filled with roots give them a couple of sizes more room, using ordinary loam, to which add a little sand and rotten manure ; pinch out the leading shoots to cause them to break side branches, and give tliem ordinary stove treatment as to heat, light, water, and air, shading slightly when the weather is sunny. The plants soon begin to show the natural peculiarity of their leaves, and keep on moving regularly, the base of the stalk acting just like a hinge. All further that is required is an increase of pot room when the soil gets full of roots. The plant attains a height of about 3 feet, and does not need a great deal of room. It deserves a place in the gardens of those who are fond of singularities in the way of plants. It comes from India, and therefore likes a considerable amount of heat at all times. Insects. —Aphides and red spider, as well as others of the worst description of insects that prey on stove plants, will sometimes attack this Desmodium ; the daily use of the syringe during the growing season will generally suffice to keep the smaller ones in check. Should scale or bag affect the plants, sponge with tepid water. T. Baines. LILIES FOR GREENHOUSES. Theee are a few Lilies which can be readily grown in pots and employed for greenhouse or conservatory decoration during their flowering season, and that, too, not among the rare or high- priced kinds, but those that are readily obtainable and cheap. One of the earliest is L. longiflorum, that is if it is grown with the intention of bloom- ing it early in the season, but if treated as the others— i.e., potted and just protected from frosts — it does not flower till the summer A useful class are the varieties of L, elegans or Thunbergianum, all of which are of dwarf growth and have com- paratively large, erect blossoms, A few distinct varieties are : alutaceum, rich apricot ; atro-san- guineum, deep crimson ; Van Houttei, bright red ; venustum, deep orange ; marmoratum, crimson marked with orange ; and Prince of Orange, yel- lowish buff. L. davuricum, orumbellatnm as it is sometimes called, and its varieties are, like the last named, an early blooming class, producing erect heads of flowers, but as a rule taller in growth than L, elegans. Three good distinct forms easily obtainable are grandiflornm, orange-red ; fulgi- dum or Sappho, bright crimson ; and incompara- bile, intensely dark crimson, L. pulchellum and tenuifolium are two pretty little early flowering Lilies ; the first has erect flowers of a glowing red colour, and the second bears drooping blossoms of the Turk's-cap type, but bright crimson. This Lily has been lately largely im- ported and sold by auction. Some of its bulbs have been very large, and fine blooms may be ex- pected from them, L, pomponium flowers pretty well in pots, but cannot be depended upon with so much certainty as the preceding, which in general character it much resembles, but it is in all respects larger. L. Krameri is a very pretty Lily, and one quite distinct from the others ; its flowers are borne on slender stalks, frequently solitary ; they are funnel-shaped, and as much as 6 inches or 7 inches long. Their colour varies from almost white to a sort of pale rosy lilac 56 THE GARDEN [Jan. 2fi, 1884. It is seldom of much use the second year, but. it is now imported from Japan every season in such numbers that during the spring months it is com- paratively cheap. To a later section belong aura- turn, speciosum or lancifolium, and tigrinnm, all of which flower well in pots. L. auratum is too well known to need description. Of L. speciosum the most distinct varieties are Schrymakersi, an improved form^of roseum ; Krietzeri, white with greenish stripe down the centre of the petals ; punctatum, white with rose-coloured spots ; and craentum, of a deeper colour than roseum or ru- brum. Of the Tiger Lilies the most effective is the old tigrinum, which must, however, not be allowed to get too dry, otherwise a number of the leaves will be lost. The double-flowered variety is also distinct and pretty. The above constitute a good selection for grow- ing in pots. L. longiflorum is most useful for general purposes when three bulbs are placed in a 6-inch pot, though, if desired, large masses of it can be made up. The varieties of L. elegaos, davurioum, and tigrinum we also grow in the same way. L. auratum and speciosum are potted singly in G-inch pots, except a few for forming large masses in pots 1 foot in diameter. Our practice is to pot the balbs as soon as received ; they are then placed in a cold frame just to protect them from frosts and heavy rains, and the lights are kept ofi whenever possible, in order to ensure a sturdy growth. By the middle of April they are all plunged out of doors, with the excep- tion of a few of the early kinds, which are kept indoors to flower early. L. longiflorum will thrive in a warm greenhouse provided it has plenty of light and air, but none of the others here men- tioned should be forced in this way; otherwise, they will run up thin and many flowers will go blind, while those that open will be deficient in colour. We never allow the blossoms to expand out of doors, as the wet there soon spoils them ; ■when the buds are in an ad2a.nced state we move the plants under glass. L. auratum and tigrinum sometimes lose their bottom leaves, i.e., if not well and regularly supplied with water. The Tiger Lily and the varieties of L speciosum are very useful for conservatory decoration at a time when summer flowers are beginning to get scarce. Alpha. HIBISCUSES AND THEIR CULTURE. Those most suitable for growing in pots are the rosa sinensis section, but as they come from India and the South Sea Islands, they require a good deal of warmth. They are evergreen, and attain considerable height, but their tree bloom- ing disposition, flowering as they do when not more than a few inches high in small pots, ren- ders them desirable plants for indoor cultivation, especially as they are easily propagated by means of cuttings. They also bear pruning well, breaking readily when freely cut back, and in this way they may be kept for some time within a reasonably limited sized pot. The individual flowers of the single as well as the double, or, more properly speaking, semi-double varieties are very effective ; in shape they are not unlike those of a Carna- tion, but much larger. The time of flowering dif- fers considerably according to the manner in which they are treated, but they usually bloom through the summer and autumn months. Propagation is effected by means of cut- tings, which, as I have said, strike readily in sufficient heat at any time when bits of half-ripened wood can be obtained. The most suitable shoots for rooting quickly can be got from plants that have been cut back about the close of the year, and afterwards kept in a temperature of 0.5° by night, and correspondingly warmer in the daytime. Thus treated they break freely. When the shoots are about 4 inches long they should be taken off with a heel and placed singly in small pots, drained, and half filled with sandy soil, the upper portion consisting wholly of sand. They should then be placed in a frame or under propagating glasses, where they can be kept close and moderately moist, conditions under which they will root in a few weeks. As soon as they are well furnished with roots, move them into 4-inch or 6-inch pots ; they will succeed in either peat or loam, but, as with most free-growing sub- jects of a similar character, I prefer loam where it can be had of a good, turfy character, as in it strong-growing plants almost invariably evince a disposition to produce flowers more freely with less wood growth than when cultivated in peat. Increase the heat of the house or pit in which they are placed as the days lengthen, giving them plenty of light with air in proportion to the tem- perature and state of the weather, using a little shade in the middle of the day and syringing freely overhead in the afternoons. When the young plants have fairly started into growth, pinch out the points to induce them to break back. Through the season they require nothing different from the general occupants of a warm stove. Even this first season many of them may be ex- pected to produce flowers, and when standing as they ought to be on the front stages of the store, they form conspicuous objects. AriEB BLOOMING is Over shorten them back a little, and as soon as they have broken, shift them into pots 3 inches or 4 inches larger than those they have been in, using soil similar to that just named, with sufficient sand added to keep it in a healthy open condition. Through the autumn months subject them to drier treatment, both as regards the atmosphere and soil ; winter in a temperature of 60" by night, or even a few degrees higher will suit them better. Their management during the enstiing spring and sum- mer will require to be such as that recom- mended for the preceding year, except that no stopping should be attempted vmless with the view of inducing a portion of the plants to bloom later. After they have again flowered, the shoots should be shortened back more or less, according to the size to which the plants are to be grown ; but there is no state in which they are more useful than when confined to small pots. A sufficient stock should be propa- gated yearly, and the plants may be discarded after their third season's blooming. Where it is desirable to grow them on longer after they have fairly broken, they should be turned out of their pots, as much of the surface soil should be re- moved as can be done without disturbing the roots in a way likely to injure the foliage, and they should be repotted in soil similar to that in which they have been grown, being guided as to the size of pot by the size to which the plants are desired to attain. They are free-rooters, and will bear a shift of 8 iuches or 10 inches without any danger of the soil becoming sour. The larger the plants the greater quantity of flowers will they produce ; and in this way, with additional root- room, they may be increased in size for several years. Where space is limited, they can be kept in a healthy condition with their roots somewliat restricted, making up for this by the frequent use of manure water during the growing season. SPECIE!? AND VAEIETIE.S.— There are numbers of species and varieties known to cultivators. The following are a selection of the most noteworthy Amongst them are several of the H. rosa sinensis varieties, which are the most effective for ordinary cultivation : H. rosa sinensis brilliantissimus, has large-sized reddish scarlet flowers, deeper coloured towards the lower part of the petals. H. rosa sinensis CoUeri. — A particularly free-bloom- ing sort, with yellow or buff flowers, the lower portion of the petals red. From the South Sea Islands. H. rosa sinensis Dennisoni. — A close, dense growing kind, with creamy-white flowers of large size. A fine sort. H.rosa sinensis miniatu^ semi-plenus. — This plant has handsome stout foli- age and bears freely its large semi-double flowers, which are vermillion-scarlet in colour ; the petals are elegantly waved in their outer edge, not un- like a double Petunia ; the stamens, which pro- trude between the petals, enhance the appearance of the flowers. South Sea Islands. H. rosa sinensis zebrinus. — The individual flowers of this sort are smaller than most of the other kinds ; i they are quite double, and the back petals are red, edged with yellow. A distinct and handsome sort. H. rosa sinensis schizopetalus is a most singular and distinct-looking plant from Tropical Africa. The flowers are drooping, suspended on long stalks ; the petals, few in number, are deeply pin- natifid ; the flowers are red. It has a most elegant effect when in bloom. H. marmoratus. — A small- flowered species. The flowers are white, spotted with rose. A native of Mexico. H. Cameroni. — This is a shrubby habited plant from lladagascar ; t is a tall grower. The flowers are straw coloured, with purple spots at the lower extremity. INSECT.S. — Like most plants that require a high temperature. Hibiscuses are subject to the attacks of insects ; the leaves especially, if the plants are allowed to want for water either at the root or overhead, are liable to suffer from red spider, but if the syringe is regularly used and sufficient care taken that the water effectually reaches the undersides of the foliage, this troublesome little parasite can- not get a footing. Where it happens to exist, I have found the best remedy to be a weak solution of Fowler's insecticide, which the plants should be either dipped in or syringed with, so that every portion is reached by the mixture. Green fly some- times makes its appearance on the young shoots, for which either dip in Tobacco water or fumigate. Should they become affected with scale or mealy bug, sponging must be resorted to, as, except when the plants have been cut back and are denuded of their tender foliage, the leaves will scarcely bear any dressing strong enough to kill the insects. T. Baines. SELECT AKALLiS. Amongst Aralias much difference exists, both as regards size and form ; they are hard-wooded evergreen plants of comparatively free growth and mostly erect in habit. They have little dis- position to branch out, a property which befits them for associating with plants of bushy growth. They are increased both by cuttings and grafts, using for stocks such of the commoner species as are plentiful. The stocks should be prepared in the usual manner, that is, struck from eyes or cuttings, and grown on in small pots until they have attained the thickness of an ordinary pencil, when they should be headed down to a little above the base. The scions should be then in- serted in any of the several ways by which plants of a similar nature succeed. I have found none better than the cleft and wedge method, keeping them warm enough and a little close until the grafts are united. But in the case of Aralias, as with most other things of a like character. Propagation, by cuttings and eyes, is the method by which ordinary cultivators usually in- crease them. Plants that get naked and bare of leaves should have their heads cut off in the spring, making cuttings from such of the upper portion as is only half ripened and of the extreme top as well ; the matured part of the stem may be cut into bits and put in as eyes like the cuttings in a brisk heat, keeping them close and suflSciently moist until enough roots are formed ; then re- remove the propagating glasses and pot off singly ; peat is most suitable for the weaker-growing kinds, loam being best for the strong ones. They will thrive in the warmth usually kept up for hot stove plants, say 65° in the night in spring, with a rise of 10° or 15° by day, and proportionately more as the season advances. Air must be given regularly through the growing season, with shade when the sun is powerful. These plants will bear the soil in a moderately moist stateand they should be syringed daily in the summer. Nothing more is necessary than to increase the pot room, as the roots require it. Old stools of most of the species when headed down will push several shoots ; these if taken off with a heel when about 6 inches long will root readily and make plants in little time. Species. — The undermentioned are the most desirable, viz. : A. Veitchi : - A plant with a tall, slender stem and dark green digitate leaflets, nar- row and undulated in the edges, so as to produce a distinct and handsome appearance. It comes from New Caledonia. A. gracillima forms^ slen- Jan. 26, 1884.] THE GARDEN 57 der, graceful, erect stems, thickly clothed with deep green leaves. Fern-like in their appearance, mid-rib white. A native of the South Sea Islands. A. elegantissima. — This is from New Caledonia, and has an erect, slender stem ; the leaves are digitate and on long stalks. A handsome plant, A. O.iyana is from the South Sea Islands. Another erect grower, bearing digitate leaves, the leaflets bilobed A. leptophylla.— Stem erect and slender, leaves palmate and borne on long leaf-stalks. A. filicifolia.— A South Sea Island plant, having a purple stem spotted with white ; the leaves are ele- gant. Fern-like, and deeplydivided. A. Guilfoylei.— Another South Sea Island species with an erect stem and shrubby habit ; the leaflets are 2 or 3 inches in length and margined evenly with white. A. quinquefolia. — This is an elegant-habited species, very distinct ; it grows to a larger size than the smaller leaved section. A. monstrosa. — A new and very distinct kind, with pendent leaves, the leaf- lets margined with white. From the South Sea Islands. A. Chabrieri. — A new species of small and elegant habit. One of the best of the small kinds. A. ternata. — An elegant habited sort ; the leaves are serrated and opposite, pale green in colour. New Britain. A. Kerchoviana. — A pretty kind, with larger leaves than A. elegantissima. Insects. — Thrips will sometimes attack the young leaves, but these and red spider are easily kept down by the use of the syringe. Brown scale is their worst enemy, and where it exists should be got rid of by frequent sponging, as the leaves will not bear dressing with anything strong enough to kill the scale. T. Baines. GLAZED POTS. This subject was discussed in more than one of the papers — The Garden being one of them, I think— some seven or eight years ago, and origi- nated in a discussion on the subject of " Dirty v. Clean Pots." It was then proved that glazed pots answered admirably, and were in use in some gardens, where they are still, I believe ; but thirty years ago or more Lindley wrote that " experiment has settled the question by showing that plants will grow in glass, in slate, in glazed earthenware, just as well as in soft burned pots; and it is now admitted on all hands that if plants are ill- grown it is the fault of the gardener, and not that of the pot." The cottager was, however, the real original discoverer, for he grew his plants in pots glazed within and without long before even Lindley wrote. One of the earliest examples I was familiar with was a fine Fuchsia that grew in a black teapot for many a year. About forty years ago Charles Mcintosh put the whole of his Camellias into slate tubs, which are as impervious to moisture as glazed earthenware, and I was familiar with these plants and tubs many years afterwards. The fact of the matter is, common flower-pots were not originally made of porous earthenware on account of the plants, but because they were cheaper made in that way when the labour of manufacture was greater than it is now. Cultivators only jumped to the conclusion that the porous pot was best, but for no good reason I have ever yet seen stated. The common flower-pot is, except when plunged in the ground up to the rim, the worst receptacle for a plant that could be devised, be- cause it constantly exposes an active evaporating surface to the air, and an evaporating surface is always a chilly surface. How the roots of a plant are affected inside such a pot any person may learn for himself by wearing a wet coat next his skin in the open air. In short, a plant in a porous pot upon an airy greenhouse stage may be said to be placed under about as adverse conditions as it well could be. A glazed pot is no better than a porous one while it remains moist on the outside, but then it soon dries ; whereas the porous pot is always moist and giving off moisture. — J. S. W. That porous pots, glazed on the outside, are far better for growing plants than ordinary ones is a reasonable proposition. Cold at the roots checks, while warmth in the shape of bottom- heat promotes growth. All are familiar with the method of making water almost ice-cold in sum- mer by placing it in a porous vessel and exposing it to a draught. The roots of a plant in a porous pot are, when recently watered, under the same conditions as the above-mentioned water, and are made equally cold ; it follows that plants are subjected to a serious check each time they are watered ; this effect is sometimes avoided by plunging the pots ; it is well known how much more freely plants grow when plunged. It is probable that the mischievous effects attributed to draughts do not result from their direct action on plants, but indirectly from the cold at the roots produced by the rapid evaporation caused by such pots. Glazed pots would not only prevent surface evaporation, but render watering less frequently necessary, thereby saving labour and preserving the fertilising properties of the soil for a longer time. — Edmund Tonks, Knmole. AFTEE TREATMENT OF FORCED PLANTS. It is no uncommon occurrence to see plants that have been forced prematurely into bloom ex- posed as soon as the flowering season is over to the same temperature as would have been ac- corded them had they never been in heated structures at all, with the result that the foliage is often spoiled and the plants ruined in health. Let us take the case of bulbs which are forced every year. Immediately they have fulfilled their pur- pose they are turned out of doors and exposed to all weathers, the result being that most of the tender foliage is destroyed and the bulbs greatly weakened ; whereas if hardened off gradually and planted out in spring in spots where they can remain undisturbed, they will soon recruit their strength, and serve to beautify the places in which they have been planted. In this way Tulips, Hyacinths, Scillas, Crocuses, and other things might be much better employed than by being consigned to the rubbish heap when their beauty is over. In the case of bulbs forced into bloom by Christmas or thereabouts, when done with they should be placed in a frame and protected from frost, but at the same time get as much light as possible, in order that the foliage may become well ripened. Another class often treated in a very unceri- mouious fashion are the different hardy shrubs, which as soon as the bloom is over are turned out of doors because they are hardy, forgetting that under the treatment they have received the buds are just bursting, or the young leaves even ex- panded, which latter from their delicate nature at once fall a prey to frost. When shrubs are forced early they should receive a certain amount of protection for a time, the most important being, if possible, kept under glass till severe frost is over, and the others placed in a sheltered spot. By this means the strain on the plants is not nearly so great as when they are thrust outside at once, and as a matter of course they sooner recover from the forcing which they have under- gone. When the evergreen Indian Azaleas are forced early and placed perhaps in a cold part of the greenhouse as soon as the bloom is over, the foliage often turns rusty, and when it gets into that condition it is by no means easy to restore the plant to its original tint. With Azaleas it is better to encourage the plants to make their growth as quickly as possible by keeping ttem in a growing temperature ; if this is done, they can be had in bloom earlier the following season than those that have not been prepared in that way. One thing to be borne in mind with regard to forced plants of this description is that cuttings of the young shoots produced in heat strike root much more readily than those grown in a lower temperature later in the season. In Azaleas this is especially noticeable, but the same remark holds good in regard to most plants. We propa- gate Deutzia gracilis to a large extent in that way ; thus, as soon as the flowers are over, the yonng shoots, which generally spring np from the base of the plant, are removed and made into cuttings. No jointing is necessary, as they readily root from all parts of the stem ; when put into pots they are kept close in the propagat- ing house till rooted, which, as it is kept at an in- termediate house' temperature, does not take more than a fortnight. As soon as suSiciently rooted they are potted off into small pots, which they fill with roots by May, when they are planted in a well-prepared bed in the open ground and make good growth the first season. Alpha. SPRING MIGNONETTE. Now is a good time to sow Mignonette in pots for spring bloom. In a general way 4.J-inch pots are quite large enough, being more manageable than larger ones. Free growing as this fragrant an- nual is, the fact remains that a well-grown sample of it is more the exception than the rule. The difliculty which so many seem to experience is in furnishing their plants with green, luxuriant foli- age down to the rim of the pot. Poverty and crowding are the main causes of this ; if the plants get room enough and never suffer from want of water, getting weak liquid manure frequently as soon as the pots begin to fill with roots, they will never become bare ; on the contrary, the leaves will assume a rich shade of green, and will be of great substance. The pots need not be drained so much as is necessary for many things, one large crock and some fibrous material being ample, but great care should be exercised in the choice of soil, as the roots of Mignonette do not appear to pos- sess the power of working freely in that which is in any way retentive or inclined to become close after watering. There is nothing, I think, to equal manure which, through age, has become mould. This well sweetened requires no admixture of any kind, and I know of no other compost in which fibrous roots are so quickly and freely made. In English gardens, however, this description of potting ma- terial does not frequently exist, and the best sub- stitute is probably fibrous loam two parts and leaf- mould one part. Make the soil moderately firm, and fill the pots to within half an inch of the rim, watering moderately before sowing, so that little or no water will be required until the young plants appear. When up, thin them out to six in a pot, and let them have as light a position as it is pos- sible to accord them. Here, however, I would observe that many failures occur through the plants being subjected to currents of dry air and overmuch aridity generally, and this is frequently the case when the pots are set on a dry stage near the hot-water pipes. Mignonette appears to de- light in a more or less constantly moist atmo- sphere, and never does so well as when the pots are plunged in tan or leaves The equable condi- tions there enjoyed are scarcely obtainable in any other way, and those who have this convenience should not fail to take advantage of it. J. COBNHILL. STORING TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. Some recommend that these be stored in dry material, but from what I have observed, I am in- clined to the belief that by so doing we subject them to some loss of vitality. I have noticed that when kept just moist through the winter they start more readily and stronger than when dried off as soon as the foliage decays. If I could do so conveniently, I would keep them in the pots in which they bloomed, watering them several times very moderately in the course of the winter if the soil should be seen to become quite dry ; but I should much prefer a close shed or a cellar for keeping them in, as if stored away with the soil in a moist condition it would retain enough mois- ture through the winter to preserve the tubers fresh and plump without having recourse to water- ing. Brought out about the middle of March and carefully watered, they break away quickly into strong growth, and when they have shoots some 2 inches long they can be shaken out and repotted without experiencing any material check. It stands to reason that when no loss of roots is experienced daring the resting period the tubers must start 58 THE GARDEN [Jan. afi 1884. stronger and more readily into growth than when a complete set of feeders has again to be formed in spring. Even when the tnbers remain in a moist condition through the winter, so that they are in a fresh, plamp state when started again into growth, there must be some loss of time, and one would think a diminution, however slight, in strength ; but the difference is very marked when the tubers have been stored quite dry. Then they require more time and careful treatment, or they are liable to decay or make a weakly, as well as a tardy, leaf development. I noticed this very particularly in the case of some tubers which I received through the post ; they were quite a fort- night later in starting than those which had been stored moist, and were further still behind such as had been kept in pots and which had not been allowed to become dust-dry. The best plants, I think, for bedding are such as have been grown one season from seed, coming into 2|-inch pots by the summer, and in which they are wintered. Such plants I have found to start away very quickly and strongly. J. c. B. DOUBLE-SPATHED CALLAS. Mb. Case (p. 19) directs attention to some ab- normal forms of Calla (Richardia sethiopica). Such forms occur frequently with those who grow this plant very strongly. Four years ago I was engaged in working up a stock of these plants, and, in order to raise the required number from the few plants which we then possessed, all the suckers as they appeared were taken off and rooted in small pots. This operation was com- menced as early in the season as possible, the young plants being grown on in an early Peach house, lly the middle of June they were gradually hardened, and planted outside in a trench pre- pared similar to what we use for Celery. JIacy of the plants when placed out of doors were strong and well established in 7-inch pots, and the smaller ones in 5-inch ones. In planting, abundance of manure was placed about the roots, and good soakings of water given when the weather proved dry. In September they were lifted and placed in 12-inch pots, as we could not get the mass of roots they possessed into smaller sizes, using for a compost rich loam and a seven Lh of decayed manure. After lifting, the plants were placed behind a north wall and kept well soaked with water and syringed until they were again esta- blished. On the first appearance of frost, they were housed and kept cool until Christmas, by which time they commenced throwing up their spatbes, which were very large in size and set on stems fully 6 feet high from the surface soil of the pots. Towards the end of January and all through the following month more than half the plants produced abnormal spatbes. This was attributed to their remarkable strength and the liberal feeding which they received. They did not only produce a solitary double spathe or two, but many in succession during the whole of the season. The same thing has occurred with our strongest Callas every year since, but the same plants when not grown strongly only produce single spatbes. This season our plants are not strong enough to produce them double, being very much weaker than usual, owing, no doubt, to their extra strength having become exhausted. We never attempted to secure double spatbes, whetlier the plants are weak or strong, because we think them less beautiful than single spatbes. Manifesto. 5135— Insects in soil.— The inquiry as to the best means of getting rid of insects in soil refers, I presume, to small quantities for seed sow- ing and other delicate operations, and not to that of the open garden. I used to be frequently troubled in the same way as your correspondent, not only by insects, but also by a kind of mossy growth which overran the seed pots, and which was especially destructive to Fern spores, as the humid atmosphere necessary for the Ferns en- coaraged the growth of the Moss. To remedy this I subjected the soil to a temperature high enough to kill any animal or vegetable substance that might be in it and with, I am pleased to say, per- fectly satisfactory results. I had an unusually good opportunity for thus heating it, as owing to the way in whicli one of our boilers was set there was left above it sufficient space for 3 or i bushels of soil to be baked at once, but anywhere without much trouble enough for seed sowing could, I should think, be so treated.— II. P. Varieties of Poinsettia puloherrlma. — It is not generally known that there are two forms of this Poinsettia extensively cultivated. They differ in the shade of colour, the floral leaves of one being of a richer and brighter scarlet than those of the other, and in addition it is at least three weeks later. The dullest-coloured form is the most short-jointed of the two, and besides being the earliest is, I consider, the most easily grown. It also forms a better-shaped whorl, and the floral leaves, too, are rather broader than those of the brighter-coloured late variety. We grow them in equal quantities. — W. I. Qloxinias in vnnter.— There is no diffi- culty in getting these into blossom by the middle or end of January. Our earliest lot are just show- ing buds. It is only a qucotion of allowing the plants to ripen early, and this naturally follows exhaustion from flowering at all seasons. I do not like the system of permitting the tnbers to get dust-dry, even when at rest. Some may pass throagh this unnatural drying harmlessly, but it is the cause of a good many deaths among weakly plants.— E. H. Cocoocypselum discolor.— Grown in sus- pended pots or baskets, this just now is very pretty in the stove, and will continue so for some time to come. It is a creeping plant of soft texture, the slioots of which hang for some distance over the edges of the pot or basket in which they are grow- ing. These shoots are now studded with very deep blue berries, a colour, to a great extent, wanting among stove plants. It is of the easiest possible culture, and produces berries freely without any special attention. — Alpha. Clethra arborea.— AVhen planted out in the bed of a conservatory, and allowed to assume its natural shape, this Clethra, when in flower, is very handsome ; the foliage, toe, at all times is bright and cheerful. It is a native of Madeira, and in general characters more resembles an Ar- butus than it does other species of Clethra (the white Alders of the United States), which are all slender growing deciduous shrubs, with spikes of white flowers borne during July and August. Clethra alnifolia is the best known of this section, the members of which are all much alike. Clethra arborea, on the other hand, flowers late in autumn and early winter, besides which it is evergreen, and not deciduous, as the others are. Its flowers are arranged in upright spikes after the manner of those of the Lily of the Valley, which the blooms individually resemble. In colour they are white, sometimes slightly suffused with pink.— H. P SB OUT NOTES.—INnOOR. Daphne Indica.— This highly tragrant Daphne grows more freely when grafted on the common Spurge L.iurel (Daphne Laureola) than when struck from cuttinsta. riants of it are now generally obtained by grafting. — ALl'HA. Luciilla gratlsslma..— In striking cuttings of this flowering shrub, pntthem in as soon as possilile after they are sevned from the parent plant, asif allowed to flag cut- tings of it often refuse to root. Half-ripened shoots of it succeed best ; they require a stove temperature — T Thunbergfla Harrlsl.— We prepare this c'imbtr es- pecially for winter blooming and are rewarded with a dis- play of the most lovely pale Ijlue flowers imaginable. Long continued sunless weather was beginning to affect the suc- cession, but a few hours of sunshine has tiuickly recovered it, and we now have abundance of bloom. It is a general favourite, the colour being particularly attractive.— I Allamanda Hendersonl. — There are not many plants tliat bloom continuously from May to February without becoming unsightly, l)ut we have had this variety in bloom all that time, and no one appears to be tired of it. We use its blooms extensively on the dining table, one bloom with a frond of JIaiden-hair Fern being placed in each specimen glass, or better still a tiny flsli-globe. Alla- mandas do well either in pots or planted out.— I. M. 6137.- Iron tanks.— Whether the water held in iron tanks is in a condition to injure plants generally, and more especially such things as Heaths and New Holland plants, depends on the character of the iron, and also of the water. I have found that there are some iron tanks that will rust and corrode with any kind of water, either soft or hard, whilst some will not rust with rain water, such as that caught from the roof, In the way " W. L." (p. 51) speaks of. Where there is no corrosion I do not think there is likely to be any harm done by using water held in iron tanks ; but where the reverse exists I should not like to use it, especially for such plants as your corre- spondent names. Where water is only required to be held in limited quantities, there is nothing equal to slate tanks ; where to be stored in large quantities, concrete tanks made of clean shingle, sand, and cement are the cheapest and best, as they are not nearly so subject to leaks as where bricks are used, even if the precaution is taken of laying them in cement in addition to lining the inside with the same material. But in all cases where cement is used, the tanks when new should be filled with soft water, which, after being allowed to stand for a week or ten days, should be thrown away, repeating this a second time before using any, as the new cement makes the water as hard and unsuitable for the roots as if strongly im- pregnated with lime. — T. B. Flower Garden. NORTH AMERICAN LOBELIAS. Gkeat numbers of Lobelias are found widely spread over the American continent, even in the tropical parts. Few of them are, however, culti- vated, and, from what I can learn, the finer species are not only confined to a comparatively small latitude, hut are very few in number, a le- mark which applies to the perennial and tall growing kinds. Some of the species from the hotter parts are well described by Kunth and other authorities, but if we may judge from L. Tupa, they would be of little use in our climate ; whilst L. fulgens, L. splendens, and L. cardinalis are from the more temperate habitats in Carolina, Virginia, and Mexico. After all, though it would never do to shut the door against new comers, we are comparatively independent of kinds that, al- though good, are yet unsuited for our use by reason of their tender nature, as we not only have in L. syphilitica and the kinds just named the two primary colours in their most brilliant hues, but they are found to cross freely of themselves, and thus to aiiord great variety. The following are a few of the most distinctly coloured species belonging to the more northern districts— viz. : L. syphilitica, a border plant much admired for its rich blue flowers, which are abundantly produced in August and September ; height from 1 foot to 2 feet. It is a native of Virginia atd thrives in a drier soil than the scarlet sorts ; moreover, it is also more hardy. Its flowers are numerous and the leafy calyx distinctly serrated. The segments of the angular corolla have their edges ciliated ; the flowers are li inches long and form bold racemes. In Dr. Woodville's " Botany," p. 177, there is a good en- graving of this plant, and some interesting parti- culars are furnished respecting its early cultiva- tion in this country, as well as the importance at- tached to it in its wild state by the North Ameri- can Indians as a medicine. L. s. maculata is a variety of it with brownish spots on the leaves, but to attempt to notice the difierent kinds in which the blood of this species is traceable would be like entering a maze. L. colorata (Sweet), though brought from America, is said to be a hybrid between syphilitica and cardinalis, also be- tween Nuttall's L. ccelestis and Graham's L. crispa, if, indeed, they are not identical. These are fine kinds with deep azure-blue flowers, that make their appearance in summer. A white form, too, under the name alba is offered by the trade. Two years ago I raised from a batch of seed the fol- lowing colours : blues of many shades, rose, scar- Jan. 26, 1884.] THE GARDEN 59 let, and two plants having white flowers ; all nearly showed the features of syphilitica, and some were a reproduction of it, pure and simple. With the exception of two scarlets, one with a remarkably fiery or metallic lustre, I considered the seedlings useless, the white ones most so, for they were scarcely more showy than a white Dead Nettle. Of the qualities of alba I cannot speak, havinf? neither grown nor seen it. L. cardinalis (the Cardinal Flower) is a very common plant in Mexico, Carolina, Virginia, and other States. The two or three scarlet-coloured species mostly grown have come to be considered to be pretty nearly one and the same thing, or at most but varieties. Such is not, however, the case. L. splendens and L fulgens, two old and well-known species, are both distinct from and superior to cardinalis. In L. fulgens the leaves are slightly rolled at the edges ; they, together with the stems, are rather downy. The rich scarlet flowers have more substance, and the divisions of the corolla are more acute than in L. splendens, which has to some extent the features of both of the above, but may be known by its purple leaves, which are not rolled like those of fulgens, nor downy. There are varieties of Flowers of Lolelia cardinalis (tmall)and L. splendens (large) ; both natural size. it, or, more strictly speaking, there are other varieties, notably a grand one called Queen Victoria From the results already seen in crosses of these scarlet kinds with L. syphilitica, of which Sweet's grand purple L. speciosa is an instance, these Lobelias are worth some attention from raisers. When grown in bold clumps they are princely objects in the latter part of the summer. They vary in height from 18 inches to 4 feet. The hardiness of these plants is not such that they may be set in any garden and left to take care of themselves in the same way as tall Cam- panulas. There may be exceptions to this state- ment, but they will be found to be few. Still, the care needed to keep up a healthy stock is so small, that those who have seen the dazzling masses of bloom which they produce in autumn surely cannot begrudge it. With timely protection, roots otherwise suitably planted may be kept in the open ground year after year. But in York- shire we have another difficulty, perhaps not en- countered by our southern friends. Notwith- standing that the base shoots make a very early start, the flowers are often too late to be fully en- joyed, and ihey get cut by early frosts. So far as my experience goes, the double object of preserving stock and getting the flowers a little sooner is best gained by potting strong crowns early in the autumn obtained either by division or cuttings rooted early in summer. In a cold frame these will probably go on making new roots all winter, and if put out in April in deeply tilled quarters, such as those for Dahlias, they make a grand and early display. All the roots may be preserved in the open ground if desired by plating coal ashes several inches thick over them. These have been said to be of little use, but they will be found to be other- wise if used early enough. The base crowns be- come very proud even in autumn, and by the time frosts arrive they have well-developed foliage ; therefore to cast a weight of ashes on these crowns at such a stage cannot be helpful. They should go on as soon as there is the least sign of sprouts on the surface, when they will not only give pro- tection, but give it at the most fitting stage of next season's growth, and will, moreover, act as a beneficial check. Neither do I like to cut the old stems from off such plants of doubtful hardiness. The ampleness of these will afford some shelter, and I have fancied that the weather let in by the cut, hollow stalks has something to do with root decay. It is a mistake to plant these Lobelias in damp, sunless quarters. They certainly need moisture in summer, but deep tilth is a desidera- tum. John Wood. ICirkstall. TENTSTEJIONS AND THEIR CULTDKE. The beauty and effectiveness of Pentstemons en- title them to a foremost position amongst garden flowers, yet a good display of them is but sel- dom seen. This is probably in a great measure owing to the fact of the Pentstemons being by many regarded as a truly hardy perennial ; whereas it is only in very favourable soils and situations that it flourishes. In many places, especially where the natural soil is heavy and moisture- holding, Pentstemons generally either die com- pletely away, or become so enfeebled the second year as to be of but little value. In severe win- ters they are apt to be entirely destroyed, even when in the enjoyment of all the lusty vigour of youth. In such cases there must be annual propagation of some kind, so that a stock of young plants may be always ready to take the place of those which thus suffer or perish. None, indeed, need mind the trouble which this involves, for the Pentstemon will when well'cared for yield as large an amount of satisfaction as any of those tender plants which are so popular in open-air gardens during the summer season. CtJTTiNGS— I have never found any difliculty in propagating Pentstemons when I could get the right kind of cuttings. Young succulent shoots, such as spring from the rootstock, strike freely, but they are not always obtainable at the time when the great bulk of bedding plants is in- creased. It frequently happens, too, that a period of hot, dry weather exercises such an exhaustive effect on plants which have bloomed or are blooming freely as to render the wood hard and sapless, and when such is the case, propaga- tion is uncertain and difficult, for even if cuttings made from such unsuitable material strike, they never make good, vigorous plants. In order to keep up a stock of Pentstemons, cut- tings should be taken now and then from early summer onwards. In June and July there are sure to be some succulent shoots, one or two of which may be taken from a good blooming plant without much detracting from its decorative value. Struck at that time they make good plants by autumn, and planted out the following .March they form grand flowering specimens that year. The cuttings should be inserted round the edge of a 4.V-inch pot in very sandy soil and placed in a cold frame, if possible, in a north aspect. When rooted, harden off and eventually pot off singly, keeping them fully exposed to sun and air all through the summer and autumn. Winter them in a cold frame, never taking off air unless very hard weather should occur, and giving just enough water to keep the soil moist. From March onwards pull off the light every day in fine weather, leaving it off when the nights are mild. If the points of the shoots have been pinched, this treatment will have for result the formation of sturdy, bushy little plants, and which, if care- fully planted, will make a fine show. Probably the easiest way, and one more often practised now than formerly, is the raising of seedlirgs. A pinch of seed sown every year will ensure a good supply of young plants, which, in a general way, grow with more freedom than those obtained by means of cuttings. By sowing in June the young plants will attain good strength by autumn ; and if two sowings are made, one about the beginning of June, the other a month later, a better succession of bloom will be secured. These seedlings should be treated as recom- mended in the case of cutting.'!, nursing them along in the young and tender stage of growth, but exposing them to the open air when large enough to bear heavy rains without injury. A bed of seedling Pentstemons of a good strain is one of the prettiest of floral displays, and must charm all who "have an eye for beauty of form and colour, independent of mere brilliancy ; and naturally the raising of seedlings has more interest, as one never knows what is coming, and there is sure to be some variation in tint from year to year. Planting. — Pentstemons, more than many things, love a good, free, and deeply stirred soil, and did my means equal my love for this flower, I would take care that the plants had fully 2 feet of good loam at their disposal. What Pentste- mons best like is loam rather light than otherwise, with a moderate addition of leaf soil or thoroughly rotted manure. With good drainage, plants thus situated will bear a considerable amount o£ climatic vicissitudes with equanimity. They will also make strong and sturdy growth, and will pro- duce flowers in great abundance. In the case of light, porous soil, deep tilth is the great point to keep in view, and 18 inches at least in depth should be secured. With a good mulch of short manure in summer, there will then be no difficulty in growing Pentstemons in soils which naturally dry up quickly in hot weather. When Pentstemons are found not to suffer much in winter, they may be planted in October, as then they become well established by the beginning of the following summer, but otherwise the middle of March is time enough. Plant firmly and mulch with about 3 inches of Cocoa-nut fibre or short manure. _^___ J- *^- ^■ LILIUM AURATUM OUT-OF-DOORS. I WOULD recommend L. aura.tum to be planted out-of-doors in groups of four, at say 9 inches apart, on 2 inches or 3 inches of sand and broken charcoal mixed together, thus combining drainage with sweetness. The crown of the bulb should be about 3 inches below the level of the surface, and should be covered with clean sand, which will pre- vent worms, &c., from making havoc amongst the bulb scales. A stout stake should next be driven into the ground in the centre of the square or circle, as the case may be, to which the stems must be tied as they grow. A stratum of cow manure, baked so as todestroy insects and crushed to powder, should be laid about an inch in thick- ness on the sand. If the bulbs are planted, say in Januarj', a mound of ashes about 6 inches thick should be placed over each to guard them from frost ; indeed, it would need more' degrees below zero than we are in the habit of getting to freeze bulbs under such a blanket. This must be an annual application in November. Slugs fird the ashes an insuperable barrier, but the Lily shoot pushes easier and straighter through them than even through sand. In May the heap may be made level with the soil, an operation which should be done carefully, so as not to break the young stem. As the season advances the only manure or stimulant required will be an occasional dose of water in which a porous bag of soot has been steeped. If these bulbs be allowed to remain three or four years without disturbance, and also without having the stems removed till December, when they should be carefully twisted out, they will be found to have wasted no time underground in increasing and multiplying, as their young side 60 THE GARDEN [Jan. 26, 1884. growths will furnish evidence. The latter should on no account be allowed to flower, and they will re-appear each succeeding year with stouter stems. At the expiration of four years the whole of that particular colony may be carefully lifted ; the young bulbs should be separated carefully from the parent, and their after treatment is only a re- petition of that just recorded. Should any scales be broken ofiE in the operation, they may be planted in sand, each piece forming the nucleus of a fresh plant. These remarks apply, with slight variations, to the bulk of the Lily tribe. The chief points are good drainage and full exposure to sunlight, taking care at the same time to protect the bulbs from frost in winter. E. A. H. G. Morsfortk, near Leeds. SUB-TROPICAL BEDBING. ^T may be thought to be a rather inopportune Mme of year for discussing this subject, but as I intend to write on one phase of it only, that is seedling and hardy plants that can be made to do duty as sub- tropicals, and the present being the time to sow the seeds, and also to plant out hardy kinds, it will be seen that these notes are the op- posite of being inopportune. The words sub- tropical bedding are associated in many people's minds with all that is extravagant in horticulture, and as only to be attempted by those who have full command of any number of hothouses and the means of buying or of raising the finest Palms, Dracaenas, Tree Ferns, Musas, and the like; but there never was a greater horticultural fal- lacy, as effects, at any rate equal, and in some re- spects superior, can be made even with hardy plants alone, though I would not advise this ; but for variety's sake, the use in conjunction there- with of the best seedling species of plants that are most easily raised by the ordinary appliances- pits and frames — that are common to most gardens. Perhaps my notions of beauty of form in regard to this subject may be defective, and therefore only to be taken from my standpoint ; but they have this advantage, that they have passed muster, nay, have been commended when tested as practi- cal pictures. This much it is necessary to say in order to remove any bias there may be in the minds of persons who only believe in sub-tropical plants of the highest grade and of the tenderest character. The following is a list of hardy plants that give extra fine effects all the summer, and some few of them continue in a fairly effective condition throughout the winter : Acanthus mollis, A. spinosissimus, and A. lusitanicus, Acacia (common), Ailanthus glandulosa, Aralia Sieboldi and A. ja- ponica, Arundo conspicua, A. Donax and A. versi- color, Bambu.saFortunei, IS. Metake, andB.falcata, Bocconia cordata, Crambe cordifolia and C. jun- cea, Gynerium argenteum, Gunnera scabra, Fe- rula gigantea, F. communis, Melianthus major, Rhus Cotinus and R. glabra laciniata, .Sambucus (silver striped), S. niger aurea, Tamarix ger- manica, Yucca gloriosa, V. longifolia, and Y. re- curva. Arrangements of the plants must of course be subject to individual taste, but a good rule to follow is to, in each bed, use as large a proportion of evergreen as of deciduous or herba- ceous kinds, so that the beds will not look bare in winter. As an illustration, say that a large cir- cular bed has to be furnished on this double sea- son plan, it would be somewhat as follows : Cen- tral plant Aralia Sieboldi, next three plants, equidistant, of Sumach (Rhus Cotinus;, next six plants of Melianthus major, then a ring of twelve plants, six being Yucca recurva and the other six Acanthus mollis ; the latter, though it loses its best leaves, never quite dies down in any winter, and it is one of the grandest of summer foliaged plants that there is in the herbaceous list. In summer such an arrangement might be carpeted with Chilian Beet, I'erilla or Coleus, which im- parts a real sub-tropical effect, and in winter neat- ness can be assured by surfacing the bed with Cocoa fibre. The above may be taken as a type of the many pretty arrangements that can be made with hardy plants alone, though person- ally we give preference to intermixing hardy and easily raised seedling kinds, of which the following are amongst the best for the purpose : Acacia lophantha. Beet (Chilian), Canna Annie Orange, C. gigantea major, C. maxima, C. nigri- cans. Cannabis gigantea, Chamsepeuce Casabonjc, C. diacantha. Cineraria maritima. Eucalyptus glo- bulus, Ferdinanda eminens, Grevillea robusta, Perilla nankinensis, P. laciniata atro-purpurea, Eicinus africanus, E. compactus, R. Gibsoni, R. macrocarpus. Salvia argentea, Solanum gigan- teum, S. marginatum, S. pyracanthum, S. robus- tum, Wigandia caracasana, and Zea japonica variegata. The majority of these should be sown at once, but such as the Castor-oils (Eicinus), Hemp (Cannabis gigantea), Chilian Beet, Perilla, and Zea japonica variegata, that germinate and grow rapidly, need not be sown for another month, or even more, lest they get crippled by being pot-bound before it is safe to plant them out. The following may be taken as a typical arrangement of seedling and hardy kinds in com- bination : Tall central plant Ailanthus glandu- losa, then three plants of Eicinus sanguineus, and next six plants of Acer Negundo variegatum, then twelve plants of Ricinus Gibsoni, and next a com- plete circular line of Grevillea robusta, with edging of Salvia argentea and undergrowth of Cineraria maritima. Other arrangements might be given, but these will suffice to show the direc- tion to take to obtain sub-tropical effect without real sub-tropical plants. In these types of plants, with our short summers, free or rapid growth is essential to bring out the full beauty of the plants ; hence it follows that high culture must be a first consideration. A close, moist soil is at all seasons several degrees lower in temperature than a porous one, and therefore good drainage should be a prime consideration ; and next, deep tilth and abundance of manure. W. W. H. TENNIS LA'WNS. Lawn tennis has become so popular, that a garden is now considered incomplete without a plot or court in which it can be played ; and as this is a good season to set about the formation of ground for the purpose, it may be of use to many if I give a few particulars as to how to proceed. The first thing in the making of fresh lawns is to fix on a suitable site, which, if possible, should be so chosen as not to be shut in too much with shrubs and trees, although shrubs are de- sirable to a certain extent to secure privacy and trees for partial shade— a great boon on bright days. The trees should, therefore, be on the south side, and the shrubs where they will shut in the ground from public view ; but it is very important that they be not sufficiently near for the balls to be driven among them, as then they have to be continually hunted up. This labour may to some extent be obviated by the use of nets ; but the better way by far is either to have a sunken court or raised banks, the latter being preferable, es- pecially if the position happens to be at all wet and low. In this case the ground should be drained by running a row or two of tiles through it at a foot or so deep, according to the nature of the soil, and the outlet or level for getting rid of the water. The draining done, the next thing is to level, making it uniformly firm and solid. If the soil is found to be at all stiff and close, it is a good plan to use plenty of sand or road scrap- ings at top, or in lieu of these fine cinder ashes, either of which will prevent the surface f- be- coming very hard and cracking in dry wt::' or sloppy and muddy in wet. As soon as it is ■ ".'.ied and dressed as just described, it will be re?.i-/ for turfing or sowing ; if turves can be had they are best, as there is then a good bottom at once. To have fine herbage on them they must be obtained from a meadow or pasture that has been closely grazed ; they should be cut about 9 inches or 1 foot wide, 3 feet long, and 2 inches thick, sizes handy for laying down ; when this is done it will be ne- cessary to ram any projecting or high parts down, and then make all smooth by the aid of a heavy roller. This should be plied from time to time during the spring, always taking advantage of any rain or thaw after a frost, as then the surface is soft and in a condition to be affected by pressure. In the event of turf being difficult to get, a good lawn may soon be had by sowing seed. 'The pre- paration requisite for this is just the same as that for turf. The best kind of seed for sowing to form fine courts or lawns is that which consists of a mixture of lawn Grasses and small Clover. The seed may be sown in March ; it then germinates quickly, and is soon out of the way of birds. When up, gentle rolling is all that is necessary till the Grass gets long, and then the mowing machine must be put to work ; but the Grass should not be cut close till it becomes well established, when the machine ought to be passed over it regularly once every week all through the summer and au- tumn. This will cause it to spread and thicken and form a bottom like a green carpet, elastic and pleasant to tread on. S. D. PRESERVING CHRISTMAS EOSES FROM DEFORMITY AND SPOT. It will, I think, be allowed by those who have had experience with Christmas Eoses that no matter how strong pot-established or freshly-lifted roots may be, their flowers are never so plump and fine as those on healthy roots in the open garden ; that being so, it is of the utmost importance that the flowers should be preserved from injury. Where flowers must be had, I am aware that plants in the open caimot be relied upon in severe seasons, though with a little covering they seem to make some progress even at the worst of times. The point, however, to which I wish to refer is how to get clean flowers without little holes, im- perfectly-formed sepals, or decayed edges from open garden roots. Many will doubtless have been annoyed to see buds malformed and eaten as soon as they have emerged from the ground. A damaged bud never makes a perfect flower, and we all know how conspicuous flaws become in large white flowers like those of the Christmas Rose. From what I have observed I believe the damage is done w^hen the buds are very yo\ing. About the time when our early frosts occur they are just cracking the surface of the soil and the buds get damaged. I am unable to say positively that slugs injure them, but I have seen them about the young blooms and buds in num- bers, and when cleared away the injury ceased. The remedy consists in taking wood ashes in the latter part of autumn and scattering them thickly over the crowns of the Hellebores ; with a wooden peg also gently pierce the soil, so as to let down a little water. If this exposes the buds too much, a mixture of sand and more wood ashes should be used to cover them again. The earth thus treated becomes so saturated with potash that the slugs forsake it. All this may seem a deal of trouble, but surely not too much if by it large, pure white flowers can be had at Christmas. No doubt this dressing is of benefit to the plants as a manure as well. After this treatment all that is required is placing bell-glasses over the plants when the buds begin to turn white ; they should, however, be tilted a little to admit air. Kirltstall. J. WOOD. Lillum lancifolluin rubrum.— I find the different varieties of Lilium lancifolium to be equal if not superior to the larger flowered L. auratum for many indoor purposes ; they make good plants with six or seven blooms in pots not more than 5 inches or (J inches in diameter ; even moderate- sized bulbs in 4-inch pots produce on an average four good blooms, and for mixed floral decorations where small pots are a necessity, such plants are welcome. As soon as the tops of such plants die down in autumn I shake the bulbs out of their pots, sort them into different sizes, and re-pot at once. One good bulb is enough for these small pots, and such bulbs usually throw up two good flower-stems. The soil that suits them best is turfy loam, a little hotbed manure, and sharp silver sand well mixed together. In potting put a good handful of sand right on the crown of the Jan. 26, 1884.] THE GARDEN 61 bulb, and do not fill the pots more than three parts full of soil ; when the stems push np they can then be top-dressed with some rich compost ; they push out a quantity of roots from the base of the flower-stems, and unless these are covered with soil they wither up. Therefore directly they are visible cover them over, and rough pieces of cow manure may be advantageously applied just before the flowers expand ; some weak liquid manure will also add size and colour to the blos- Eoms. They do best under movable frames, which can be raised as growth progresses, keeping the tops always near the glass. Keep a sharp out-look for aphides, and when observed dip the points of the shoots in tobacco water or Gishurst compound, as they get down among the leaves and are not easily exterminated by fumigation. — J. G., Hants. New hybrid Freesia. — Doubtless before long we shall see in English gardens the new Freesia described in a recent number of the Reviw Horticole. It is a cross between the white- flowered Freesia refracta and the yellow- flowered F. Leichtlini ; in habit it is intermediate between the two, being more slender than the first named parent and more robust than the second. The flowers are larger and better than those of either, and are deliciously fragrant, the three inferior petals bearing a deep orange blotch. When well grown it flowers readily during winter, and, being of a more robust character than its parents, it forces well. The name which has been given to this desirable bulbous plant is Freesia hybrida Giardino Corsi-Salviati ; it was raised in the gardens of the Marquis Corsi-Salviati, an en- thusiastic horticulturist, who resides at Sesto Fiorentino, near Florence. — G. N. 5132. — Wall climber under trees. — For covering a wall quickly in such a situation I should recommend "A. M." to plant a vigorous growing variety of Ivy, such as the Irish ; other wall plants are not satisfactory where shaded by overhanging trees. As the soil is probably full of tree roots, a border about a couple of feet wide should be dug at the foot of the wall before the Ivy is planted, and should the soil be poor, a little well rotted manure or decayed leaves may with advantage be added to it. — Alpha. In order to cover a wall in such a position as that described by "A. M." there is nothing equal to Ivy ; in fact it is the only plant that will answer if the trees are such as to darken the wall much ; and even Ivy, which is the most accom- modating of plants, will not do as well under con- ditions of ihis kind as where it has more light. There is no plant with which I am acquainted that likes rich soil better than Ivy ; the ground should be dug deep, so as to get rid of the roots of the trees for the time being ; plenty of manure should be put in ; the roots of the trees will not be slow to help themselves to this, and each spring nntil the wall gets covered there should be a good dressing of manure laid on the top as far as the roots of the Ivy are likely to extend. In such a case where time isan object, and where the growth will necessarily be slower and weaker than if better situated, I should put in the best pot plants I could get ; they can be had 7 feet or 8 feet high with four or five shoots each ; if planted sufficiently near together, say a yard apart, and the shoots properly spread out evenly they will cover a good space to begin with, and if the work is to be satisfactory, after attention in the way described with, manure must not be wanting. Hedera canadensis, usually called the Irish Ivy, has no superior for a position of this kind. — T. B. SHORT NOTES.— FLOWER. Annual Chrysanthemum.— Some plants of this raised from seed sown iu the open ground last April began flowering in July, and have continued to do so ever since, although on two separate occasions (November and Decem- ber) we had 11» of frost— J. C. C. SIntrle Dahlia White Queen —Last summer I stated in The Garden that this was the freest flowenng, most distinct, and best of all the single Dahlias, and those who grow this fashionable class of flowers may remember tills fact, but I would not advise them to trust to seed. Dependance can only be placed on ha\ii]g the true variety from cuttings.— J. MDIR. Ferns. BEST CULTIVATED FERNS. ( Continued fToni page 19.^ LoMAEiA NiGKA. — This interesting New Zea- land species, although plentiful a few years ago, is now getting scarce. It is distinct in habit and striking in appearance. It is dwarf in growth, and although its barren fronds, borne on short, somewhat fleshy stalks, generally attain about 6 inches in length, they fail to produce much effect when grown in a pit or on level ground. The place in which it shows itself off to perfection is a crevice in rockwork, where the intensely blackish green colour of its foliage contrasts sini;ularly with its surroundings. The fronds, which towards the base become pinnatitid, have their upper part generally furnished with broad and slightly lobed terminal pinnas, whereas in the pinnate portion the pinn^, round or obtuse in shape, are divided nearly to the rachis. The fertile fronds, which are much contracted, are also of smaller dimen- sions. This species greatly dislikes being watered overhead. Greenhouse. L. NUDA.— A handsome JTasmanian species often met with in cultivation under the name of L. falcata. With the exception of L. gibba, which is more rapid in growth, this is undoubtedly the most useful Lomaria in a young state for table and general decoration. It is of compact habit ; its pinnatifid fronds, broadly lanceolate in shape and of a light green colour, are produced in great quantities and very freely from a crown which with age produces a short, slender stem of erect growth and very tough texture. In that respect at least it differs from any other member of the genus. These fronds, which are of a grace- fully arching habit, grow from 15 inches to 20 inches in length, and are borne on short, dark, rounded stems of good substance. This species, which is readily propagated from spores and ex- tensively grown, has produced several varieties ; the best of which, and indeed the only one worth cultivating for its own decorative merits, is the L. nuda pulcherrima, a very ornamental plant with a constitution equally good as that of the typical kind. From the latter it differs in having the extremity of each of the pinnje somewhat crested or again pinnatifid and the apex of the frond formed by a light crest adding a special charm to the plant. Both species and variety should at all times be kept from artificial heat, the effect of which on the young growth is most pernicious. Great care must also be taken to keep their foliage dry, so as to avoid the dark brown streaks which one often sees in the pinniV»'^'i- '^ lo' ™^ rcritaiis. Quite recently I was told that literary authority must go for very little if it be " understanded of the people " that a Gillyflower is a Wallflower. A lady friend of seventy-five, who has been a cultivator of old- fashioned flowers for more than half her life, says the Clove Pink is the Pink Gilliver of fifty years ago (G having the sound of J) ; so it was five hundred years since, for Chaucer calls it the Clove Gilofre, and he must, with his Anglo-Norman dialect, have referred to the Clove Pink, and that only, seeing that in the French of to-day we have Giroflee musqucSe, meaning Clove Pink; Girofle, Clove; Girofli5e, Gillyflower; Giroflier, Clove Tree. Surely this must be " the curious, choice Clove July-flower" which Spenser and ;Ben Jonson called "Sops in Wine" (but never Wallflower), from the use in their day of the aromatic flowers as flavouring for wine, Chaucer recommending the same " to put in ale, whether it be moist or stale." The " British Flora Medica " gives strong tes- timony to the Clove Pink being the true Gilly- flower of old times ; but I extract two quotations which rather lend their weight in favour of the Stock : — Bring hettier the Pincke and purple Cullambine With GelliHowers ; Bring Coronations and " Sops in Wine I " Speiiser's Shei>herd'e Calendar. Fair Ox-eye, Uoldylocks and Columhine, Pinks, Goulards. Kingcups, and sweet " Sops iu Wine." Pan's Annicersary. The work just named gives Dianthus caryo- phyllus as Clove Pink or Gillyflower. Mr. J. Wood gives us the common name of Dianthus del- toides as wild Gillyflower ; but, in apparent con- tradiction to this, he tells us, when writing of Cheiranthus Cheiri, or common Wallflower, that " at one time the Wallflower was called the Gilly- flower, but the name is now only applied to a biennial and single variety of the Stock, a near relation of the Wallflower." Mrs. Lankester, in "Wildflowers Worth Notice," says, "The flowers of the Clove Pink are used to give colour and fra- grance to a syrup used in medicine," and Hemsley tells us " the Pink was cultivated in very ancient times by the Mussulmans of Africa, who used it to perfume their wines." We thus get at the probable identity of " Sops in Wine " with the Pink, if we are to give Chaucer and ancient cus- tom their due weight. In the quotations from the two poets given above, all three — the Pink, Stock, and Wallflower theories — may be sup- ported ; but then our poets were not infallible in giving plants their proper names, for have we not Milton calling the Honeysuckle the " Twisted Eglantine ? " I do not suppose any of our fore- fathers would have used either Stocks or Wall- flowers as " Sops in Wine," whereas it is beyond dispute that Clove Pinks were so used. In Chaucer's day, then, we have the Clove Gilofre, and to-day we have the Clove Gilliver ; whilst in the intermediate periods we have July-flowers, Gilliflowers, Juillet- fleurs, (Eillet (pink) fleurs— the French adhering to their Girofl6e to this day, only slightly transposing the letters of Chaucer's Gilofre. This July flowering certainly expunges W^allflowers from the title in spite of old Gerard's statement that " the people nf Cheshire do call it winter Gillifluwer." In Arne Pratt's ■* Wild Flowers " it is said " the generic ramf, Cheiranthus Cheiri, is derived from the Ara- bic likcijrij ; but this word is applied by the Arabs to a genus of red flow^ers, similar to it in little but fragrance,' doubtless the Pink, of the order Caryophyilace^, a native also of the Mediterranean region. Similarity of sound supports this view ; indeed, the generic name of Cheiranthus, of doubt- ful origin, may have been bestowed on it in error from the hheijry of the Arabs, and, by similarity of description and habitat, both Wallflower and Pink being found on old walls, ruins, &c , and de- scribed as of sweet fragrance. The book on " Alpine Flowers " tells us: '* The Clove Pink occurs in a wild state on old castles and city walls in parts of England, but more abundantly in similar places in the west of France," showing us its greater luxuriance nearer its recognised home. The Wall- flower, so far as these remarks are concerned, being disposed of, as being wrongly called Gilly- flower, the Stock has a distinctly clear claim to the name, for both being Crucifers, they may in past years have been confounded, especially as we have a W^all flower-leaved Stock, Mat- thiola graica, having yellow varieties, similar in everything to the yellow wild Wallflower, both also owning with the Pink the same natural home, and affecting the same old ruins, castles, and walls. Seventy years ago a good gardening book was written by one John Abercrombie — he was then aged seventy-two — in which we find Stock Gillyflowers, Stock July Flowers, double Stock July Flowers, Brompton and Ten-week Stocks, named frequently along with Wallflowers, the latter alw'ays distinctly separated when treated of in such sentences as " force now pots of Wall and Stock July Flowers," " different sorts of Stock July Flowers, Wallflowers, Sweet Williams," &c. ; and old gardeners of to-day speak of Stock Gilli- vers and Pink Gillivers. But it is worthy of note that to the word Gilliver there is a prefix denoting a varietal distinction, used from Chaucer's time to our own. For my own part, I am of opinion that, although the bulk of the people may apply the term Gillyflower to the Wallflower, they are cer- tainly in error, and the sooner they are understood to be so the better. That, correctly tpeaking, the prefix should be used, in order that confusion may be avoided as to whether the Clove Pink or Stock Gillyflower is meant, especially in this age, when we find the customs and terms of our ancestors becoming so general, and when we are again culti- vating the hardy, old-fashioned plants of bygone years, and giving them the true, good old English names they were then known by. Gillyflower it is and should be — a July flower, not a spring flower ; but if we wish to be correct, we should say at the time, I repeat it, whether is meant the Clove or Pink Gilliver of the fourteenth, or the Stock Gilliver of the nineteenth century, as living gardeners still use the precise terms named. TJorsforth, near Leeds. R. A. H. G. VIOLETS OUT OF DOORS AND IN FRAMES. . Amongst the many hardy flowers which commend themselves to the notice of the cultivator, few, I think are more worthy of attention than Violets. They are by no means difficult to grow, and will amply repay any extra labour bestowed on them. In order to grow Violets well, I find that they need shade and moisture, so I make it a rule to grow them on a north border, taking care before planting to have the ground well dug and erriched with a good dressing of leaf -soil and rotten manure in the autumn, and forked over prior to planting in the spring. As soon as the plants in the fiamea and those outdoors have done flowering, take them up and divide them into single crowns, each crown having a portion of root and plant them at dis- tances varying from 6 inches to a footasurder, according to the variety. Those intended for flowering where planted should be put into -i-feet beds, and those for frame work in rows. 1 he 76 THE GARDEN [Feb. 2, 1884. after treatment consists simply in keeping them well supplied with water till they have become established, cutting off all runners as they appear, destroying all weeds as they show themselves, and also keeping the hoe moving briskly amongst them. Daring the latter part of September make preparation for moving them into frames ; give the frames a full south aspect : put at the Dottom of each plenty of drainage, in the shape of ashes or what comes out of the stokehole, filling up the frame to within a foot of the lights with some good loam and leaf-soil and manure, the whole being well mixed together. Early in Oc- tober put the plants into the frames, choosing the first fine day for that purpose, and planting them with good balls, about a foot apart, or so that they just touch each other and no more. After that, give a thorough watering, which usually lasts them till spring. The lights are kept off till frost makes its appearance ; when once pat on, they are kept on till after flowering ; give them, however, all the air possible whenever the weather is favour- able. About a month after planting, all yellow and decayed leaves should be removed, and the whole bed given a surface dressing of charcoal beaten small, so as to keep the plants dry. The following varieties are good, and we can always depend upon them giving a bunch or two of blooms, viz. : Marie Louise, a free and constant flowerer ; Vic- toria Regina, the finest single of all : and the Parma we also find to be a very fine variety. To these add the well-known Neapolitan. We have several other sorts, but they are inferior to these, and not half so free. K. A. HAEDY SPEING FLOWERS. Amongst these the Christmas Eose should be named first. There are many varieties of this plant, but the most popular and best form is the variety which flowers early, and produces large, pure white flowers, and is named maximus. In mild winters it flowers in January, and the crowns should always be covered byaclocheorhandlight, set on three bricks, in order to protect the flowers from the wet : frost does them little harm. Next in succession come the spring bulbs, beginning with the small, bright blue Scillas, Snowdrops, and Crocuses, the latter of many shades of colour — purple, blue, yellow, silver, white, and numerous intermediate tones ; and it need only be said of all that they can hardly be planted too extensively or too thickly on borders or on the Grass. They do not extend fast, and produce but little effect when planted thinly. To be seen to advantage, they should be planted in broad masses and the colours should be kept separate. When mixed indis- criminately the effect is monotonous. No plants produce a richer effect in spring than do the Crocuses arranged in distinct masses : and the pure blues, golden yellows, and silvers are the most effective. A mass of Snowdrops looks well on a lawn, but it is eclipsed by a mass of any of the silvery white Crocuses, which are more telling, the flowers being brighter and showing themselves better. Later in spring we have a whole host of other bulbs, represented chiefly by the Narcissus and Tulip family, which together provide a rich display for two or three months, according to the season and locality. We have had Daffodils in flower s>me seasons from the 1st of April, when the Nar- cissus poeticus nanus, Horsfieldi, and others began to flower, till the 2oth of June, when we could then gather good blooms of N. poeticus florc-pleno, the double white Daffodil. The Daffodils are mostly all suitable for culture on the flower border, or for naturalising on the Grass and in the wild garden. The varieties are numerous, but the really good kinds from the gardener's point of view arc few. Eespectable seedsmen who consult the popular taste reduce the list from a hundred or more sorts to about one dozen or a score ; and these include such as the common double Daft'odil, Narcissus maximus. Orange Phccnix, moschatus, biflorus, Horsfieldi, Bulbocodium, and Poet's Nar- cissus in its single and double forms, all of which are good. Of the yellow, perhaps the largest- flcwered variety, maximus, and the small-flowered Bulbocodium are the best. The first is single, produces large clear yellow flowers, very effective in the mass, and the second does not grow much taller than a Crocus, and is equally effective. All the varieties should be planted early in the autumn, say October, but not later than November, for they begin to root and grow early. This is in the case of bulbs expected to flower the following spring, for Daffodils will transplant at almost any season of the year. We have often taken them up when just coming into flower, and the plants have flowered well afterwards. Eoots may be planted in almost any situation under trees or in the open, but the earliest and best flowers are produced by plants growing in sunny situations, at least in the north. The tender kinds ripen their bulbs better in such places, and consequently flower better. The list of Tulips is a long one, including double and single kinds ; for outdoor planting the single kinds are by far the best. The doubles are top-heavy and droop, and for show have no chance with the single varieties. Any number of varie- ties may be planted, but preference should be given to the most pleasant shades, and between many so-called varieties there is little or no difference. There are early and late kinds, how- ever, and in planting this should not be forgotten, as the two provide a long succession of flower, and if late and early sorts are planted in alternate patches, the one set will flower just as the other is going out. On the bare border hardy Tulips will grow and flower annually for a score of years or longer if not disturbed. Indeed, they will do this whenever they can complete their growth and mature their foliage properly, upon which their continuance depends. They succeed well in Grass, but do not last so long, as the Grass chokes them during the season of growth, unless kept trodden down. Of Scillas and Lily of the Valley there are several cultivated forms, but the blue kinds hardly differ from the wild wood Hyacinth, except in length of stem and size of flower ; but the equally strong growing rosy-tinted and the white kinds are decided acquisitions, especially the white variety, which is both scarce and dear. The flowers are large and pure white, and during the season are among the prettiest flowers on the hardy border. It is a plant worth planting as freely as the Daffodil, and it succeeds in any soil. It is a good subject to plant among masses of the Lily of the Valley, which thrives anywhere among other plants, and if let alone will yield quantities of flowers in May and June. Unlike Daffodils and Tulips, thecultivated pot Hyacinth does not es- tablish itself outdoors except under favourable cir- cumstances ; but bulbs planted out in November in the open border bloom well in spring, and arc both hardy and gay,rl vailing or beating most other spring bulbs by their pleasing and bright shades. Old bulbs, too, that have been forced early under glass, if taken care of after they have done flowering till their foliage fades naturally, may be afterwards planted out, with the certainty of most of them flowering during the next two years. The flower-spikes will not be large, perhaps bearing nine or a dozen flowers each, but when planted in patches pretty close together, they look just as well as finer ones. Blue flowers are plentiful among spring flowers, and the Grape Hyacinth is one of the best. Roots, planted in almost any situation where the ground is not wet, soon make good plants, and produce many flowers unfail- ingly every spring, both in the north and south ; but to produce effective masses it must be planted freely at the first, and then be left to itself. It flowers in April. Most of the Irises are summer bloomers, and will come to be noticed amongst these ; but Iris reticulata is a very early flowering sort, and one of the most attractive of the whole family: it also forces well. The flowers are of a rich blue colour and fragrant, and the plants should have a favourable position on the border, as it comes into bloom in February and March. In addition to those mentioned above, the fol- lowing will all be found excellent, showy, and worthy of care in cultivation, viz. ; Arabis, Dog's- tooth Violets, Cyclamens, the pink and blue varie- ties of Hepatica apennina, Iberis corifolia {the best perennial Candytuft), Phlox procumbens, a rockery subject, of creeping habit, and very pretty ; Lithospermum prostratum. Anemone fulgens, the best crimson spring flower, and very showy ; Aubrietia purpurea, close-growing and dwarf blue ; red and white double Daisies, which flower freely till July, and are very good; Pansies and Violas in warm spots and borders ;'.Saxifraga Wallacei, the showiest and best of its class, flowers white ; Wallflowers, of which there are now good distinct strains of dwarf habit, that come true from seed ; the giant white and yellow Polyanthus, the boldest and most striking of the yellow section of that family, producing flowers on stalks sometimes 9 inches high, with a cluster of flowers each larger than the common Primrose ; Polyanthuses in variety ; and, above all, coloured Primroses, a host in themselves, pro- ducing an almost endless variety of the richest shades of colour. Without doubt these are amongst the very best offspring flowers, and have a great future before them. Seed should be sown in all cases, if possible, as soon as ripe ; but the pre- vious year's seed, sown in April, gives the best plants for flowering the year following. These do not include the varieties of the Primula japonica and other exotic varieties, many of which are also beautiful. The common Auricula comes into flower as the Primrose goes out of flower, and only those who have grown it outdoors know how well it grows and flowers, especially in cool, well- drained soils. It is propagated by seed, the same as the common Primrose, and by division of the stools about midsummer, or any time in August or September. As regards the usual propagation of spring plants, they are multiplied by seed, cut- tings, or division of the roots. Any subject which produces stems which can be separated, with a bit of root to each, will grow if divided and re-planted, either when the plant has just died down or when it begins to grow. All bulbous subjects are easily separated when the foliage dies down, and subjects that produce a profuse growth, like the Arabis or the perennial Candytuft, root freely under a hand-light any time during the summer. J. S. W. VEITCH'S VIEGINIAN CEEEPEE. This is undoubtedly one of the most valuable plants for covering walls which we possess, as it attaches itself thereto without any nailing or other fastening. The foliage, too, is the right shade of green and very dense, and the plant is perfectly hardy. In a young state it is not very rapid as regards growth ; but when once established, its rate of progress is much quicker, the slender shoots, studded at regular distances apart with bright green leaves, pushing away several feet in a season. If it is desired to cover a wall, and the plants are of the size usually sold— viz., about a yard high and slender in growth — they should be planted somewhat thickly, especially if immediate display is required. In this latter case they may be put in about 18 inches apart and secured to the wall by a few nails, a support which will be neces- sary till young shoots are produced, when they will attach themselves firmly to the bricks by means of the small sucker-like productions with which they are furnished. In this way, if large plants are removed, all that is necessary is to fasten them in theirplaces till the first season'sgrowthsecures them in the ordinary way. I was compel led to remove some large plants two years ago, and as the roots were principally in brick rubbish at the foot of the wall, I was in no ways sanguine as to the re- sult. However, I took np the plants, four in number, as carefnlly as possible. Even then, however, it was necessary to sacrifice some of the roots, and those that remained seemed very small in proportion to the branches. These latter were stripped from the wall without damage, the plants removed to their new quarters, planted carefully, and supplied with water during the following summer; the result exceeded my anticipations. It would now be impossible to tell that the plants had ever been shifted. This habit of securing itself to whatever support is near gives this Vir- Feb. 2, 1884.] THE GARDEN 77 ginian Creeper an advantage over its stronger- growing ally, which to cover a wall requires in the first place to be secured thereon ; but when that is done, the long drooping branches arrange them- selves in a very graceful manner. In the case of Veitch's Virginian Creeper, however, the wall is covered with a dense mass of foliage. After it has attained a large size, it sometimes pro- duces foliage that differs altogether from that usually found on it. In some cases, indeed, it is as large as that of a Grape Vine and deeply lobed. Such an occurrence is singular, as no one would take the large lobed leaves and the small ordinary foliage to belong to the same plant ; but if cuttings with only large leaves are struck.the young growth produced therefrom is of the ordinary character. A pretty effect is produced by planting this Ampelop- sis and one of the smaller Ivies in such a way that their branches become intermixed. In that case the Ivy furnishes the wall in winter, when the Ampelopsis is without leaves, and in summer the foliage of the other becomes more prominent than that of the Ivy. This Ampelopsis strikes readily from cuttings if taken off during winter. Cut the shoots into pieces about 6 inches long, and put them in pots of sandy soil. . About a dozen in a 5-inch pot is a good, useful number, and they will require to be kept close in a cold frame till rooted. Cuttings will also root if put in the open ground, but in that case it is necessary to employ stouter shoots for the purpose, and it is not always possible to obtain them. The young shoots may be taken during summer and treated in the same way as those of Fuchsias, when they will soon root. They are more susceptible of damp than Fuchsias are, but with a little attention to obviate this but few will be lost. Take the cuttings as early in the summer as possible ; they may be potted off when rooted, and will make good little plants by autumn. They will strike readily enough now, but in that case it is better when rooted to leave them undisturbed till early spring ; then pot them off and plant them out as the season advances. This Ampelopsis is also known an^j frequently met with under the name of Vitjg tricuspidata. Alpha. Wintering Tlgridlae.— The excellent illus- tration of Tigridia alba, published in The Garden the other day, reminds me of one or two instances in which I have seen the other varieties of this showy flower cultivated in the west of England. At Lringport I remember seeing them in Septem- ber in excellent condition. They were in a bed in the open air where they had been growing four years with only the protection of some rough leaf soil put on the surface during winter. In Mr. Marshall's garden, at Taunton, Tigridiasare lifted late in the autumn and taken to a cool house ; they are then placed in a shallow box and some soil is put over the roots. A very little moisture in the soil serves to keep the bulbs sound and fresh dur- ing the winter. After all dinger of severe frost is over, they are planted again in rather large clumps in the mixed border, where they flower as well as anyone can desire. 1 have tried these Tigridias both permanently planted out and lifted and stored during the winter, but our position is too cold. With us they only commence to flower very late in the summer, and then the flowers which they produce are but few. — J. C. C. Dwarf Scabious.— These are not half so much grown as they deserve to be, as not only are they very showy in beds or borders, but they are also valuable in pots for the embellishment of greenhouses and conservatories — a purpose for which they are well adapted. They may be had in bloom almost at any season by sowing at different times, or by keeping plants stopped or pinched back till about a month or so before blooms are wanted. To have them early, seed should be sown in pots or pans in September, and the plants, when large enough, pricked off thinly or potted singly, and kept close for a few days to give them a start, after which the best place for them to winter in is a light, airy shelf in any cool house or pit near the glass. Early in spring it will be necessary to give them a shift into 7-inch pots, which are quite large enough to grow them in, as, when they become root-bound, it is an easy matter to keep them well fed by watering with liquid manure. By the end of May or beginning of June they will be benefited by being plunged outdoors, which should be done in an open, sunny position, as the more stocky and hardy the shoots are, the more flowers will they produce. For planting in borders, plants are generally raised in spring ; but it is quite worth while to sow in the autumn, as they are so per- sistent in blooming that tt.ey last the whole summer through, however soon they begin. As they vary much from seed, it is a good plan to save cuttings from any fine sorts, and propagate in that way ; by doing that a select strain may be secured, and distinct colours had for arranging in lines or beds as may be desired, or for planting en masse, in which manner they produce a very striking and pleasing effect. These dwarf Scabious live out-of-doors in mild winters ; we have many now in our borders which have afforded us great quantities of flowers for cutting. — S. D. Auricula offsets.— The season has now arrived for thoroughly overhauling Auriculas. Every one of them must be carefully examined ; all decaying leaves and decaying matter should be removed, and the pots which have become dirty should be scrubbed clean. This is the best time to take off offsets. They strike roots more freely and require less looking after at this season than at any other. We use 2|-inch pots in which to strike them. Three small' offsets may be put in one pot, or one or two larger ones in the same sized pot. The pots should be placed close together under handlights out of doors. Surface dressing next demands attention. This used to be considered a very important item in the culture of the Auricula, and by many growers it is held to be so now. A considerable portion of the surface soil is removed and replaced by some material much more stimulating, say equal parts of loam and rotten manure. Now, I have no hesitation in saying that more mischief is done to the plants by this rich feeding than good. All that the plants require is to have the green mould that may have gathered on the surface removed, to be replaced with a small portion of compost rather richer than that used for ordinary potting. Now, too, is the best time to sow seeds gathered in July last year. We used at one time to sow them as soon as gathered, but the largest proportion of them did not appear above ground until spring, and some small plants that appeared late in the autumn and winter were cut off by slugs. The seeds vegetate freely in a bed in which there is a little bottom-heat; and as soon as they are well up and the first rough leaf formed, they are pricked out in .S-inch pots, about a dozen in a pot ; when the leaves meet together they are again repotted, three plants in the same sized pot. At next potting one only is placed in each pot. — J. Douglas. Christmas Roses.— These are most service- able as regards supplying cut bloom. The earliest and finest with us is Helleborus niger maximus, which has much larger blossoms, with stronger and longer stems than those of the type ; but, al- though a stronger growing kind, it does not flower so freely as H. niger, which comes quite crowded with blooms. In pots this latter is of great value, as it may be used for the embellishment of room windows or greenhouses, where plants of it will last in perfection for weeks at a time. In taking them up they should be lifted with good balls, so as to give as little check as possible : and, when potted in light, rich soil, they should be placed in a damp, cold frame, and kept close till they get fresh hold and the flowers begin to expand, atter which they will bear more exposure and air with- out flagging. Those intended for cutting out- doors will need protection, for, though very hardy, the blooms being so near the ground get disfigured through the splashing of heavy rain ; not only this, too, but they come more delicate-looking and pure under a cover of glass, the petals being then a lovely clear waxy white, without the tinge they usually have when fully exposed. If the plants are in single patches in borders, a hand- light answers as well as anything, and a few old sashes may be laid over those growing in beds. People who are not so fortunate as to have a good stock of Hellebores will find early spring the best time to start with them, as then they are just commencing their growth, and may be pulled apart and divided at pleasure. What they like most to grow in is peat, and a good situation for them is the margin of Rhododendron beds, as there they get partial shade, in which they delight. Although peat suits them best, Christmas Roses grow freely and do fairly well in almost any soil that is not actually stiff and close ; and even in this, leaf-mould and sand, dug and mixed with it, will afford all they require. In planting beds, they should be placed triangularly, at about 18 inches apart, so as to give room for their foliage to spread, as on the full development of this de- pends the crowns they make and the number of blossoms they form. — S. D. LAWNS AND THEIR FORMATION. The lawn has always been regarded as one of the best and most pleasing features of an English garden, and through all the changes of style which have taken place in regard to the floral decoration of our pleasure grounds, no one has, so far as I am aware, ever suggested any altera- tion in regard to it or objected to its extent, pro- vided it can be kept in proper order. The lawn may be described as the frame in which the gar- den picture is set, and without which, or failing to keep it in good order, no garden can ever look as it ought to do any more than fine paintings and other works of art can be displayed to advan- tage in an unfurnished or unsuitable building. Seasons may vary, and our flower beds may vary with them, sometimes be successful and some- times disappointing, but in our peculiar and fit- ful climate the Grass lawn always affords satis- faction and pleasure, provided it has been pro- perly made at the outset, and properly treated afterwards. A lawn should be spacious in pro- portion to the size of the garden, even, smooth, always green, and pleasant to walk upon. To have it like this, it must be well made and well kept, but most depends on the making of it ; and the main points to consider in regard to this matter are the levelling, drainage, trenching or digging, sowing or turfing, and keeping ; and these I propose to treat of separately. Rough Levelling. This is a term which applies to lawn making, whether the ground is intended to be flat or un- dulating. As a rule, the latter feature predomi- nates, only tennis lawns and croquet grounds, kc, being laid out quite flat and level. Levelling un- dulating ground consists in simply filling up hol- lows and reducing knolls or hillocks, on the give- and-take principle, so as to give the ground an even and pleasing contour without disturbing i's general form, except in the case of .slopes and ter- races, which must be set out accordingly at the beginning. In cases where the ground is very uneven, however, it sometimes becomes necessary to remove the good surface soil temporarily, ard level the subsoil, or even remove a portion of it from its place — work which involves considerable expense. On no account should the good soil be buried under such circumstances ; it should be put aside to go on the top again when the work is finished. Jluch needless labour and expense in forming a lawn on diificult ground maj' be saved by the judicious planning and planting of the ground, and no steps should be taken in regard to the lawn till the shrubberies, clumps, and beds, &c , are all set out, and their position and levels axertained; and, as far as possible, all heavy planting should be finished beforehand. All tree roots and large stones should be removed from the lawn, particularly the former, which, if left in the ground, will decay in time, causing the soil to fall HI and making the surface very uneven. In gar- dens where lawns have been made on the sites of plantations where the stumps have not been care- fully removed, the atter subsidence of the ground where the roots have been decayed renders the lawn very uneven and unsightly, not to speak of 78 THE GARDEN [Feb. 2, 1884. the fnngns which the decaying roots generate, and which appears annually in the shape of masses of offensive Toadstools all through the autumn. Drainage. A general rongh level having been effected, the drainage most be seen to ; the extent and nature of it will depend a good deal upon the formation. Thin and naturally dry soils are better without drainage, as it only tends to starve the Grass in dry seasons ; but, as a rule, drainage is necessary to carry away superfluous water quickly, and pre- vent melted snow and heavy rains flooding the lawn for any length of time. For comfort's sake, lawns, like walks, should be dry. Drains i feet deep, and from 15 feet to 30 feet apart, according to the situation, with a .'J-inch tile in the bottom, and 6 inches of broken stones or rough cinders down on the tiles, and a ready outfall to a main drain of sufficient capacity to prevent " drowning,'" will be sufficient in most cases ; but in retentive soils or swampy peat even more than this may be needed. As a rule, a good guide in such cases is the amount of drainage found to be necessary on the farm lands of the district ; what is sufficient for these will be sufficient also for a garden lawn, and what this is can soon be found. Tkenching the Ground. The main beauty of a lawn consists in its fresh- ness of appearance, and, to secure this for as long a period as possible throughout the year, the soil must be deep, rich, and dry ; hence trenching in all cases is almost a necessity. It is rarely a piece of natural ground is found to be of uniform depth throughout. Nor is it needful that it should be 80 ; but it is important that the gradations from the shallow to the deeper portion should be gradual, and even otherwise the ground is certain to be " patchy'— one of the worst faults a lawn can have. The finer Grasses and Clover will prefer those spots where the soil is deepest and richest, and forsake those portions where it is thin and poor, which will be usurped by Moss and weeds ; and in dry seasons the latter will suffer first, and become brown and dead-looking, thus spoiling the appearance of the sward. I have seen lawns on which obliterated walks, that had not been trenched to the same depth as the rest of the ground, remain perfectly distinct, owing to the colour of the vegetation they produced, for thirty years afterwards. Whatever depth, there- fore, the ground can be trenched to, which will de- pend upon the nature of the ground and the cost, it must be trenche 1 to a uniform depth, and the subsoil in the bottom of the trench should be turned up rough with a strong fork as well ; but any bad soil which may be dug up must be thoroughly mixed with the good soil and not left on the surface next the sod ; for bringing up bad bott Dm soils on a lawn ground is not like doing the same on ground constantly cultivated by the spade or plough. Proceed by opening a good wide trench the width of the piece, and turn over the ground in a regular manner till the whole is finished, and then leave it for a good while to settle. After- wards the surface should be finally levelled, and if any manure is to be given, it should be dug into the surface at the same time. If the soil be natu- rally good, no manure will be needed ; but if poor, it will be much benefited by the application of rotten farmyard manure, rotten leaves, or vege- table refuse. Good fresh loam, free from weeds, is also excellent for the purpose. This trenching and manuring should be performed as early in autumn as possible ; and the winter rains and frosts will settle the soil better and more evenly than ramming or rolling, neither of which is ad- visable. Laying down a Lawn from Seed. This is by far the best plan of forming a pure, olean Grass sward, free from those weeds and coarse Grasses which mar the appearance of so many lawns, and which are inseparable from lawns made from the natural turf. When seed has to be sown, the ground, being already pre- pared as advised, should be made ready for sowing in April by treading (rolling will not do) the soil evenly, raking it smooth, and removing all stones and lumps projecting above the surface ; after that the seed should be sown thickly and har- rowed slightly in by a short, blunt-toothed iron rake and rolled down. Grass seeds mixed in the right proportions for the purpose are most con- veniently procured from respectable seed houses ; but samples differ greatly, some " mixtures " con- taining more weeds and coarse Grasses than others, and these give the lawn quite a coarse appearance. Only the most respectable seed houses sell good Grass seeds, and, with a list of the different Grasses which the mixtures are said to contain, no one should have any difficulty in procuring what he wants. The quantity of seed to an acre should not be less than 50 lbs., and f much more can be afforded, all the better. As a rule seed is sown much too thinly, and years elapse before a dense turf is formed. By sowing thickly enough, however, and manuring j udiciously , a good lawn may be had the same season the seed is sown. Remarkable examples of results from seeds in the course of a few months were exhi- bited in the grounds of the Paris Exhibition in 1878. Several English firms competed for the prize offered for the best example of lawn Grasses, each exhibitor being portioned out a considerable piece of ground, which they sowed and tended themselves. All the examples presented diffe- rences, some being fine and some coarse, just according to the proportion of the varieties of Grasses sown and the cleanliness of the samples ; but although in each case the seed had only been sown about May, the Grass was quite thick and dense by the month of August, and beautifully fresh and green. The seed had been sown thickly in well-enriched soil, and the Grass had been regu- larly cut during the season, and the cuttings left evenly scattered upon the lawn by the mowing machine. Good seed is rather dear ; but when we take into consideration the cost of procuring turf, laying it down, watering, rolling, and tending it, sowing is probably the cheapest plan, and in other respects it is undoubtedly the best. Laying Down Turf. For turf or sods the ground is prepared in the same way as for seed. The turf should Le of the finest quality procurable ; but it is only on certain formations and under certain conditions that it can be procured free from weeds and course Grasses. The turf should be taken off in pieces about 18 inches square, of an even thickness of 2 inches or thereabout, and brought to the place in rolls where it is wanted, and laid down at the same time that it is taken up. The sods should be beaten shapely by the spade as they are laid, and after- wards the whole lawn should be rolled frequently by a heavy roller in moist weather to render the surface level. In summer, should the sods shrink —as they will do in dry weather —the seams should be filled up with fine soil to prevent evaporation and bind the sods together. Turfing by inocula- tion consists in chopping the sods up in small pieces, scattering them over the ground, and rolling them in. This plan is only resorted to when turf is too scarce to permit I33 ing down the turves whole; but it answers very well, and if a few seeds are sown at the same time, a very good lawn is thereby formed in one season. Keeping the Lawn in Order. To keep a Grass lawn permanently in good order it must be cut regularly by the machine or scythe, by the former if possible, and periodically manured by means of top-dressings. When the clippings are left on the lawn, manure need not be applied so often, as the short Grass acts as a manure, much in the same manner as wood ashes ; but the prac- tice helps to propagate weeds, Daisies, Dandelions, Plantains, and the like, and on the whole had better not be adopted, except on very clean lawns. Under any circumstances the cutting of the Grass should begin as soon as the Grass begins to grow in spring, and be continued till it ceases to grow in autumn. A smooth, dense carpety turf can only be preserved by these means, as the cutting prevents the Grass going to seed, and causes the roots and fibres to spread, until in a short time the turf becomes a dense velvety mass, such as is only found on a closely shaven lawn. At the same time, this constant removal of the short Grass is certain, sooner or later, just according to the quality of the soil, to impoverish a lawn, and must therefore be made good by annual or perio- dical top-dressings in the form of guano, foot, or wood ashes, or a mixture of all the three, than which there is nothing better, and one dressing in spring will be sufficient. To this end any garden refuse should be burned, and with it all the short Grass collected during the season, and as much earth as possible. The ashes can afterwards be sifted through a fine sieve, and have the soot and guano added to them when they are used, which may be at the rate of 3 cwts. or i cwts. to the acre. The fine sittings of coal ashes may also be applied with advantage alone, but more advantageously in conjunction with other manures. Two inches of coal ashes laid under the turf will prevent worms rising, and this plan may be adopted in the case of tennis courts and cricket grounds. In winter lawns should be frequently swept and rolled. As toweeds, the most troublesome inGrass are Dande- lions, Plantains, and Daisies, which when once established are difficult to eradicate. They may be kept out of a well-made lawn with little trouble by removing them as they appear; but where they exist in quantities. Daisies and Plan- tains are not easily got rid of, except by much labour. Dandelions may be extirpated by cutting the crowns of the plants off and pouring a few drops of carbolic acid on the root, but the opera- tion may have to be repeated several times. Snowdrops. — These are now blooming pro- fusely in many parts of South Wales. I rarely find them in beds or within the bounds of cultivated ground, but in the woodlands they seem to grow naturally, and here they are in such harmony with the'ir surroundings that I am surprised they are not strewn about everywhere in woods and parks. At present we have no flowers except Snowdrops, and they are more pleasing than ttie gayest flower bed or border I have ever seen in July.— Cambrian. Gladioli amongst Boses.— Many are de- terred from growing these on account of the cost of the'.bulbs; but, though the named sorts are dear, seedlings are cheap enough, good roots being only about £1 per lUU— at least, that is the price we get them for, and grand they are, with their strong tall spikes of bloom of many shades of colour, ranging from the vivid scarlet of the well-known brcLChleyensis down to almost the purest of whites. For planting .imongst Roses nothing can be finer, as, when the first flush of beauty is over, these Gladioli come in and tower up above the foliage of the dwarfs, or arrest the eye bv their splendour, and lead it away from the ugly "stems and stakes of the standards, which always seem to want something to hide them. When grown in borders, the way I think Gladioli look best is in clumps of three, planted tri- angularly, about 6 inches apart, as groups like that are very telling and produce a striking effect. I have heard many complain of losing their Gladioli, which is generally caused by taking them up too soon, as after flowering it is necessary for them to stand and ripen till the tops gradually turn brown and die away naturally, before which time the roots should not be dug up. Not only are Gladioli often Liken up long before they should be, but they are frequently dried off, as it is termed, by exposing them to sun and air, which may be all very well for a few hours if they are wet when taken fresh out of the ground ; but if they lie long, they must of necessity shrivel and lose much of their strength. The way in which I have always found them to winter best is in dry sand, which prevents anv shrivelling and preserves their full strength. The time to plant is about the middle of March ; and if others are put in at short in- tervals, a long succession of bloom may be had. The soil in which Gladioli do best is a rich deep sandy one ; and if not naturally sharp, a handful of sand should he thrown over each bulb at the time of planting, which will keep it from rot- ting.—S.D. Feb. 2, 1884.] THE GARDEN 79 FROGNAL. This fine old house, the Kentish seat of Earl Sydney, is remarkable for having been the resi- dence of the illustrious Sir Philip Warwick, a con- temporary of the Charles'. Though Frognal has been in the Sydney family for the past century and a quarter, it is doubtful if any material alteration has taken place in the principal features of the house itself, and the garden, too, has seemingly undergone but little change. The grand old trees to be seen here were probably even in Warwick's time but little less in size than now, for many of them must have e.^isted there for centuries. The garden is a beautiful example of the true English or landscape sty le, marred in no way by any modern introduction not in keeping with its character and that of its surroundings. True, a few modern co- niferous and other trees have been introduced, but these consist of the best kinds, and borders full j trees, consisting of Walnuts, Beeches, Planes, Chestnuts, and other deciduous kinds, besides Lebanon Cedars. Next to the tree growth, which constitutes one of the especial beauties of the place, the most striking feature is the fine extent of lawn, particularly the stretch in front of the mansion, which is as level as a billiard table, and free from flower beds and other impedimenta which are so apt to destroy what artists term breadth of effect. Such a spacious and admirably-kept lawn as this affords ample room for practising lawn games without interrup- tion. The boundary of the lawn is a sunken fence, which imperceptibly connects it with the park, certainly among the most beautiful in Kent, being thickly studded with magnificent tree growth, and well diversified by pleasing undulations that cha- racterise the whole of the neighbourhood about the picturesque village of Chislehurst. filling some of the beds with tall-growing plants with fine foliage — a capital innovation, inasmuch as it somewhat relieved the terrace lawn of its otherwise monotonous flatness. Such plants as large-leaved Cannas, Tobaccos, Castor-oils, varie- gated Maize, Chilian and common Beet, Wigandias, and others produced a fine effect planted in bold masses, interspersed here and there with beds of such brilliant flowering plants as scarlet Pelar- goniums, Tropaeolums, Marguerites, and others of a similar character. Roses, here as elsewhere, are evidently great favourites, as they occur everywhere about the place grown in various ways. The majority are pegged down, thus forming large compact masses of flowers and foliage. In one part some fine bush Roses are pegged down on the Grass— an excellent plan, and one that should be more frequently practised than it is. The only extra care they need Frognal, Chislehurst, View of principal frmt. of old-fashioned perennials that meet one at every turn are brightened up in summer by a judicious assortment of bedding plants. The annexed illustration shows a view of the house, looking across the lawn, and embraces the huge bole of one of the fine Oaks with which the place abounds. At the further extremity of the lawn, looking from the mansion, are some of the most perfect specimens of Turkey Oak that could anywhere be seen. They are not so remarkable for huge size as for perfect form and wide spread of branches. The height of the finest of these Turkey Oaks is 50 feet, with a spread of branches of over 100 feet, while the girth of the trunk at a yard from the base is 11 feet. This tree is a magni- ficent object from spring to autumn, and even in winter it is most picturesque. One of the finest English Oaks has a bole 18 feet in girth, a spread of branches of 110 feet, and a height of about 60 feet. There is likewise a fine Tulip Tree C Liriodendron Tulipifera) about as high as the English Oak just alluded to, and a Magnolia grandifiora in front of the house 50 feet in height. Besides these there is a great variety of other The walls of the plain old red brick house are adorned with a fine growth of such shrubs as the Pyraoantha, Garrya elliptica, and surrounding the house is a raised terrace, but one of the least objectionable type, inasmuch as it is not too high nor too abruptly cut off from the lawn, the slope being gentle and less like a railway embankment than one usually sees. The terrace is embellished tastefully with suitable vases, which in summer are filled with flowers. The vases skirting the path shown in the engraving contrast effectively with the predominating green of the lawn and foliage. The principal display of flower beds con- sists of a double row of simple circular beds running parallel with the terrace, and placed so as to interfere in no way with the lawn. These beds are filled generally with bold masses of one kind of plant— an arrangement the effect of which is far finer than that of a heterogenous mixture of various kinds placed in a comparatively small area, and oftener than not the colours are most inharmonious. Last summer Mr. Crasp, the gardener, introduced a plan of is paying a little attention at first to have the shoots properly placed in the positions they are to occupy. In a quiet, sheltered corner of the grounds there is a thriving plantation of the choicer kinds of Conifers, among the most noteworthy of which are Abies Albertiana, A. Douglasi, Cupressus Law- soniana, C. nutkaensis, Taxodium sempervirens, Pinus Cembra, Cedrus atlantioa and Deodara, Cryptomeria japonica, and Wellingtonia gigantea, all of which seem to flourish uncommonly well in this locality. An Italian garden is still retained, representing, as it does, a relic of the old style of gardening, and adjacent to it is an old-fashioned Camellia house, filled with fine old bushes, which afford in early spring a grand harvest of bloom. The kitchen garden, fruit, and plant houses are on a scale commensurate with the wants of the esta* blishment. There are some veteran Black Ham- burgh Vines which still carry good crops of fruit. Plants to yield flowers for cutting are admirably grown, particularly Gardenias, Stephanotis, MarS- chal Niel Roses, and other useful plants for that purpose, all planted out. W. Goldbing. 80 THE GARDEN [Feb. 2, 1884. Fruit Garden. OUR GOOSBBEEEIES. Like many other {rnits, the numbers of varieties of Gooseberries that encumber the lists are now practically endless, and many of the sorts grown are only remarkable for their size, flavour being a secondary consideration, and yet there is no fruit probably that is cultivated in English gardens in which the varieties difEer so much in this respect. Between the good and bad-flavoured kinds there is a gulf so wide that only those who have com- pared them together can appreciate the difference. Our varieties of Gooseberries have not been the production of skilled hybridists or gardeners, who might be supposed to understand the subject best, but of operative weavers and mill-workers, who, strangely enough, have hitherto had the Goose- berry almost exclusively in their hands, and they have striven more for size than for quality in the production of new sorts. To such an extent has competition for prizes for size been carried in Lancashire and adjoining counties, that the " big Gooseberry ' of the season has long since become a proverbial joke. Cultivated varieties of Goose- berries have not been numerous .so long as some peopleimagine, and to Lancashire amateurs belong the credit of having brought this fruit to the degree of perfection it has attained. On referring to the several histories of the plant, we find that the Goose- berry was not known to the ancients, and that even at the present day it is only grown to per- fection in England, where all the good kinds have originated, and in the colonies where the climate suits it. There is no record of its systematic culti- vation before the seventeenth century, and it was late in the eighteenth century before garden varieties became common. At that date a Goose- berry weighing 10 dwts. was considered large, whereas now large kinds are three times that weight, or over 30 dwts. This fruit shows in a remarkable manner how much the bulk and weight of any fruit can be increased by culti- vation. In its wild state the fruit is small and seedy, but in the cultivated state the pulp, as in the Strawberry, increases enormously. One good advantage of the increase in the size of varieties, apart from flavour, is that it increases the value of the fruit for pies and tarts, as the larger the berries can be had in the green and tender state, the more profitable the crop, for much money is now made out of green Goose- berries, while large quantities are also preserved before they are ripe. The Lancashire Goosebeket grower be- stows great pains on the cultivation of his favourite, and, as has been before observed, he attaches great value to size in the case of exhibition kinds. He has even devised a method of pruning and training whereby the berries hang clear of the branches, like the bunches of Grapes in a vinery, and so swell fairly without being bruised or pricked by being blown about by the wind. In a working collier's garden the writer was siiown bushes trained as flat as tables, not above a foot high, and covering a large area of ground, the branches being supported by short stakes, over which they were trained horizontally; the berries were hanging clear underneath, and to be seen only by lying down on the ground and lookine: under the bushes. All this pains was taken to produce exliibition samples. To what degree of peifection the flavour of the Gooseberry might be brought no one can say ; but if it be possible to excel the already existing best varieties as much as these excel others, we may expect the Gooseberry in the future to rank amongst the most delicious and esteemed of our dessert fruits. As it stands now there are none more acceptable, and even con- noisseurs revel in a good "feed "of Gooseberries in season when plenty of other more valuable fruits are to be had. People hardly ever tire of eating Gooseberries, and they seldom do anyone, even delicate folk, any harm. It is a pity we cannot have more of them ; th?y never cloy the palate. It is to the gardener we owe our good garden Gooseberries, for if he has not raised tbem, he has at all events selected the best for dessert purposes and for preserving, avoiding the larger and coarser varieties, which are of no use except for show. The most popular dessert kinds are about the size of a good marble, and two typical sorts are the Early Sulphur and the Red Warrington. Of the latter we would speak particularly. It is an old sort, sometimes known as the Aston Red and Volunteer. The fruit is of fair size, of remarkably agreeable flavour, keeps well till late in the season, and is alike useful for dessert or for preserving. The bush is very prolific and very distinct in habit, growing in a wide -spreading shape, with the points of the shoots drooping towards the ground. There is no other red kind so extensively grown by thosewhoknowthegood sorts either for market pur- poses or private use, and for a second early or late sort more of it should be grown than any other ; its remarkably vigorous habit and fertility distin- guish it from all others. A number of bushes of the Red Warrington here are, I suppose, at least 40 years of age. We transplanted them 18 years ago, and they were old bushes then ; we have moved them more than once since, and they are still strong and fruitful. It is one of those sorts that do well behind a north wall, where the fruit will hang till November, and as it ripens in the open quarter in August, it has a long season of productiveness. During that season we use hardly any other sort. The colour is red or greenish red, for at times the fruit never becomes quite red all over ; but it is al- ways well flavoured. The somewhat too much praised Ironmonger is too small, as well as thick-skinned, and not a very valuable sort. Indeed, many of the small kinds have too much skin for their size, and I do not recommend small sorts for planting either for dessert or preserving. An excellent early white or yellow kind of about the same size as the Warrington is the Early Sulphur, which is a great bearer and a good grower. This sort is worth planting extensively. The fruit is excellent, of refreshing and excellent flavour, and ripe among the lii'st. Garibaldi, another large yellow sort, is also good ; and Woodward's Whitesmith is the best of all the green or white kinds, and may be grown as a companion to the Red Warrington. In order to have Late Gooseberries, they should be either trained on walls facing north, or be planted close to the north walls when they cannot be trained to them. Here the fruit will keep a long while on the trees, specially if matted up when about ripe. Goosebi rries require good culture and free pruning if good fruit is expected, but it is a bad plan to cut the shoots back severely. We often leave one- year-old shoots of the Warrington 2 feet long, and on such shoots we have counted nigh upon a hundred fine fruit in a good season. The common fiiult of Gooseberry management is allowing the buds at the base of the bush and on the stem to grow. These buds soon produce a thicket of gross i-hoots that choke up the centre of the bush and prevent the light and air from reaching the fruit These shoots the unskilful or indifferent pruner contents himself by simply cutting back to the base, instead of wrenching them out altogether, and the result is a worse crowd than before. It matters little what shape a bush is trained in so long as it is kept thin and free from suckers and snags, or artificial spurs that pro duce useless spray. All shoots cut out should be cut clean off at the base, and most dependence should be placed on the young shoots for a crop. The caterpillar— that scourge of the Gooseberry quarter — can only be dealt with if taken in time when it does appear ; and Helle- bore powder, put in water and applied by a syringe, or, better still, a good-going garden engine, is the best remedy, only Hellebore is objectionable on account of its poisonous nature. Mulching the ground thickly with manure or short litter is an excellent preventive, as it appears to keep the cater- pillars from getting up out of the soil, where they hybernate, to the bushes. We have heard before of mulchings of tan having the same effect, but any other mulching will do as well, provided it is thick enough and is tucked in close to the stem and extends outwards about 2 feet. When the bushes alone occupy the ground, its entire sur- face may as well be mulched over. This mulching keeps down weeds effectually, and, when the soil is poor, promotes a stronger and better growth. Once fruit quarters are mulched, mulch always. Such dressings bring the roots close to the surface of the soil, and these surface roots increase every year, so that it becomes dangerous to dig or fork about the roots, and digging in fruit plantations is, as a rule, an unwise practice. Mulchings should be applied in the autumn or winter as soon as the bushes have been pruned. S. INSIDE V. OUTSIDE VINE BORDERS. In reference to this subject " J. S. W." asked me to point to an example where roots of Vines planted near the front arches betook themselves to the inside border as much as to the outside one, stating at the same time that he does not wish me to compromise the name of any gardener, but just to tell him where such a fact has been proved, and he will investigate the matter himself. I can assure "J. S. W." that I am not disposed to assist him in inquisitorial investigations of this kind. Nevertheless, for his enlightenment I may ven- ture to mention a place where all that I have said on the subject, and, more, can be seen and verified, and that is Eastnor Castle. Here there is a noted old Hamburgh Vine that every year pro- duces a crop, that for combined weight and finish may safely challenge any in the kingdom. This, planted inside the end of a very long, wide house, has a full-sized outside border, and as much more inside, both of which are as full of active roots as they can hold. So far from its being conrect that roots will not stop in an inside border if they can get out, I assert that, if their wants from the first in the inside are provided for and afterwards attended to, old Vines that have lost their inside roots, or that never have had any, can be induced to make them in quantity equal to that of young vigorous plants ; instances of both I have proved in practice, and have frequently seen the circumstance verified by others. An instance of the latter occurrence I also may name, as I saw, examined, and had authority for speaking of it a few years back, and that was at Wynward Park. There were there three large old houses filled with Vines nearly twenty years old that three-fourths of the time had been altogether in an outside border, and that were brought in through the wall level with the outside. Mr. Jones, who was gardener there then, had made a good inside bed, into which the roots ran, penetrating the whole, like those of Couch Grass. The Vines consisted of most of the leading kinds— Muscat of Alexan- dria, Black Hamburgh, Mrs. Fince, Raisin de Ca- labre, Victoria Hamburgh, ISuckland Sweetwater, Alicante, and Gros Guillaume. Some of the bunches of the latter were from 7 lbs. to 10 lbs. in weight ; Raisin de Calabre from 5 lbs. to 7 lbs. ; and Victoria Hamburgh from 3 lbs. to 4 lbs. Taken altogether, they were as fine a lot of well-finished Grapes as I ever met with at one place, and to those who know enough of Grape growing to be able to trace results to their proper source there was no mistake that the improved condition of these Vines was owing to the newly-made inside roots. Those who saw the grand lot of bunches with which Mr. Jones that year took nearly every first prize offered for Grapes at the Bishop Auck- land show will not forget them, nor the lesson they taught those who believe that roots of Vines will not stop in inside borders if they can get outside. With such instances as those just named, and plenty more that might be added, did I feel at liberty to do so, " J. S. W.," I think, will see that if he cannot manage to get Vines to root equally in an out and inbide border, there are people who can. T. Baines. Watering !■■ treading fruit tree bor- ders.—There are two ways of watering a border ; one is to give it a good deluging at long intervals, and the other is to keep the soil moist by frequent Feb. 2, 1884.] THE GAKDEN 81 and gentle applications in such a manner as to re- semble natural rainfall. It is not generally known, I believe, that heavy and frequent waterings tend to settle the soil of a border and to make it hard and close more than any amount of treading on it with the feet will do. We all know how a pot of sand is settled by a good watering, and the same thing takes place in a Vine border. I am not aware that this fact has been alluded to before, but I had my attention drawn to a remarkable example of the effects of watering the other day by the men who were trenching and adding to an old inside Vine border. For years this border has been trodden on the surface by the feet, but when it was turned over the trodden portion was found to be in much the openest and best condi- tion, while another strip running the whole length of the vinery, and on which a foot had never been set, was remarkably hard and close for 3 feet down ; the difference could be easily seen by the eye and readily felt with the spade. The only rea- son I can assign for this portion, nearly in the centre of the border, being so hard and solid is that three rows of hot-water pipes lie over it from end to end, and owing to its always being the driest part it got more water than the rest of the border, many a potful being poured on there when none was given elsewhere. At all events it was much the hardest part of the border, and I leave the subject to the reflections of those who believe in deluging newly made borders with water at certain times.— J. S. W. RENEWING OLD FRUIT TREES. The common plan adopted by the inexperienced when making changes in their fruit houses and gardens is to root out old trees and substitute young ones. In the case of useless varieties, this is the best plan ; but with good sorts, with which no fault is found ercept perhaps that they are in a weak state or unfertile, such summary measures should not be adopted without due consideration. Old trees can be renewed to a considerable extent by judicious management, because, owing to their habit of growth, they put on new tissue every year, and by promoting vigorous growth through generous treatment a new layer of bark soon ac- cumulates and restores vitality. It is surprising what strides an old Peach tree, for example, will make in the course of a few years if well nursed root and top and allowed to develop additional shoots and leaves. The old bark-bound branches and limbs take a fresh lease of life, and swell and crack with distension ; new baik will be seen to form in the rents, and this is the first sign of re- newed vitality. Every fresh addition of tissue in this way acts as a further leverage of growth in the future. Old Vines, long restricted to one short cane, if allowed to extend, will double their growth in a short time, unless they are very old indeed; but the ancient Vine at Harewood House, which fills a large vinery from end to end, responded in this way to the fresh start given it a number of years ago when its roots were lifted and replanted, and it is now, or was lately, a fine fruitful Vine. In the case of old trees, therefore, we say renovate rather than replant, unless things are very bad indeed, and no fear need be entertained as to the result. I have seen and heard of the good effects of renovation so often that I offer this ad- vice confidently. A house is sooner filled with bearing wood by restoring old Vines or Peaches than by planting new trees, provided the suicidal plan of cutting down the trees to the bottom is not adopted at the same time, in which case new ones might as well be planted. Eighteen years ago the vigour and fertility of Vines here were renewed by the simple process of draining the border afresh, top-dressing, and giving the branches more room ; and now no one would believe the Vines to be the same, so strong is the wood and heavy the crops. In another case an amateur came into possession of an old Vine that almost any gardener would have cast to the rubbish heap at once, so weak and miserable had it been for some twelve or fifteen years ; it was, however, retained, partially lifted, and well seen to, and the crops "it has borne for three out of the four years since it was operated upon have been a marvel. Old Peaches behave just in the same way. The roots travel far, and get down among the drainage and sub-soil ; the border gets worn out ; accumulated top-dressings laid one upon another annually, probably quite out of reach of the roots, soon tell a tale, as indicated by the increasing debility of the branches ; but lift these same roots in autumn, lay them near the surface in sharp good soil, thin out the shoots and regulate the others, and give them the proper degree of heat, and the result in one or two years will strike the most casual observer. With moderate crop- ping, one season's growth under such conditions will work wonders, and the tree will be saved and the house retained full of fruitful branches, the future health and welfare of which will depend on treatment alone. Old Apples and Pears answer to such treatment in just the same way. With trees radically diseased, gummed, or cankered, it is another matter ; but for trees that are only poor and weak, or unfruitful, there is every hope, and they should not be discarded. The great point in such cases is generally to find the roots and treat them judiciously. Strong doses of manure are of little use, [unless the roots are where they can make use of it. Feeble old roots need lifting and laying in a generous light mixture of loam, sand, and refuse, peat, or leaf -mould in equal quantities. In this they soon root afresh, producing multitudes of youns; fibres where there were none before, and afterwards they can be nourished by stronger diet. S. W. FRUIT-PACKING FRAUDS. TO THE EDITOR OF THE GARDEN. Sib,— Allow me to address fruit growers for mar- ket upon a subject closely connected with the suc- cess or otherwise of their calling, viz., that of fruit packing. The dishonesty, for it is nothing else, dis- played in the style of packing home-grown fruit for Covent Garden Market is simply shameful. Pass- ing through that market recently, I observed some Apples being overhauled, and was surprised to see the rubbishy fruit that was concealed in the middle of the package. It consisted of small specked Apples, quite worthless from a mercantile point of view. In the same market last week there was a bushel of Apples well topped with fine fruit, apparently worth about 6s. a bushel. Some which I meai.ured were 9 inches round. Of these there were about two layers, perhaps a peck ; then came half a bushel or more of.rubbish — Apples small, specked, and half rotten, none of them being larger than Walnuts, while at the bottom of the basket were a few more about as good as those on the top. For this basket, as offered for sale, any ordinary buyer would have been led to have given about three times its actual worth. This season, owing to the scarcity of the American crop, English growers have the market pretty much under their own control ; but such practices as those to which I have just alluded are not likely to bring home- grown fruit into favour. American barrels of Apples are all through alike good, and buyers know exactly what to give for them, buton our English produce no such confidence can be placed ; that has to be carefully inspected. Deception of the kind to which I refer is simply suicidal, and the sooner such matters are mended the better. A MiDDLESE.X FEUIT GROWEE'S SON. 5129.— Canker in Apple trees.— From my experience with Apple trees I am convinced that canker oftener arises from the presence of insects on the bark than from the roots being in soil that they do not like, although this latter is generally supposed to be the cause of the evil. From close watching and examination, I find only those trees subject to canker that have been attacked by American blight or other parasitical insects that live on the bark. The latter must be kept clean if the plants are to be maintained in good health. There are various ways of doing this, one being to syringe them periodically with fresh limewash used when hot immediately after slaking ; it then does its work effectually, clearing off Moss, Lichen, and insects that are on the branches, and leaving them bright and polished after being well washed by the rain. For American blight I know of nothing better than paraffin, mixed in the pro- portion of a pint or so in four gallons of water, and applied to the bark or places in which the insects lurk. The paraflin is so searching and penetrating, that it dissolves them at once, and destroys all eggs that may be in the crevices where the old brood lurks. For the last two or three years we have depended on the fumes of burning sulphur as an insecticide and cleanser of fruit trees, and nothing can answer better; it is sudden death to all parasites, and does not in the least injure buds or bark, but quickly improves the ap- pearance of the latter and restores the trees to health.— .1. Sheppakd. Trebbiano Q-rape— A few weeks ago I saw and tasted samples of this Grape grown by Mr. Gilbert at Burghley. I was informed that it was his favourite winter white Grape, and the fact is not surprising, as under the high condition to which this variety has been brought at Burghley it would captivate anybody. The smallest of the bunches would weigh .3 lbs. They were well shouldered, and tapered nicely to the point. The berries, too, were large and plump as those of Hamburghs in June. The colour was of a beau- tiful golden tint, and their flavour most pleasant and refreshing. Altogether, as grown at Burgh- ley, it is a charming and most satisfactory Grape in Januai'y, and one which may safely be recom- mended.— Cam BRIAN. 5130.— Digging among Strawberries is a practice which is most injurious ; it breaks and destroys the roots, the most active portions of which are generally to be found near the surface, and these ought to be encouraged and fed by top dressings of old soil or manure ; at this season the latter should be short and decomposed, and put on so as not to bury up the crowns while it is made to lie snugly around them. Applied in this way it encourages the formation of fresh feeders at the base of the plants, which, as Straw- berries grow so much out of the ground at that point, is a great help to them when sending up their blossoms and perfecting their fruit. This is the reason why spare rich soil is so good for them during the winter, and not only is that and the manure highly beneficial in the manner stated, but they protect the plants greatly from cutting winds and hard weather, the combined influences of which often cripple them sadly and weaken their powers for growing. Another thing that affects Strawberries injuriously is the stripping off their old foliage (their winter's dress), which should be left to shelter them, and this, when it is al- lowed to remain, it does in away nothing else can do, as the young leaves gradually push up under and find their way through when they get a little hardened and can take care of themselves. — S. D. S/TORT NOTES.— FRUJT. 5133.— Brown s^ale on Peach trees.— If the trees are trained to a fivUis or nailefl to a wall, undo the whole of the branches, auil carefully hand-wash thera with a sponge and soft soapy water. In this way all the scale can be washed oft. — Ilfoed. Blenheim Orange Melon.— Permit me to advise growei-s of this favourite Melon to take care to obtain it trne. seeing that a spiu'ious and very inferior kind is in the marlcet, thus causing vexatious disappointment, as well as damaging the reputation of so good a Melon.— C. M. 6133.— Fermentin? material la Paach houses. — St-ible manui'i- ft-rmenting in a Peach house while the trees are in blossom would most likely cause the whole of thebloonii to drop off. It will be better to rest satisfied with present conditions and wait a few weeks longer for the c^op to ripen than hasten it in the w-ay proposed. — J. D. O. Peaches on open walls. — After visiting some of the largest and best managed gardens in Ireland, from Cork to Dublin, I met no gardener who has f idly succeeded in growing Peaches under .any management or with any .aspect satisfactorily against an open, unprotected wall. If success could have been secured in this way, I believe Mr. (Isliorn, Fota Island, (^ueenstown. a grand situation and aspect, would have had it ; yet he .assured me that he is going in for protection against spring frosts. At Alinella. a 150- foot Peach wall yields thousands of fruit with a tem- porai-y sash protection during the setting ; without this failure would be certain as elsewhere.— W, J. Mvkphy. Clonmtl, 82 THE GARDEN [Feb 2, 1884. Melons for preserving. — Where ripe Jlelons are required for preserving whole I can confideutly recommeud Scarlet Gem. For such a purpose large fruit is not required. Fruits weigh- ing from 10 ounces to 14 ounces are more valued than larger ones for preserving, and Scarlet Gem, if properly managed, is just the variety to supply them. We have grown it for the last two years, and if we had required many ripe fruits we should have had no difficulty in getting seven or eight from an ordinary sized pit light. Bottom heat is, of course, necessary, and if the plants are put out early in May, and allowed to set the required number of fruits all at one time, there will be no difficulty in getting the whole of them ripe within a few days of each other. This variety is also as well suited for the dessert table as preserving, its flavour being excellent.— J. C. C. Shrivelled Grapes plumping- up again. - — " J. S." gays I am mistaken in saying tbat Grapes which have shrivelled through the roots being too dry will not plump up again however much water is given them, and instances some Lady Downes under Mr. Thomsons care that were allowed to hang on the Vines until spring, and which then plumped up when the sap rose. This case, I need scarcely say, is outside the question. The Lady Downes doubtless shrivelled in the winter through the length of time during which they had hung, while the Grapes of which I spoke shrivelled in the autumn, not through evaporation of their juice, but through sheer want of water. The effects of the flow of sap in spring, and those of the appli- cation of water when the Vines were dormant, are two very different matters. — T. Baines. Since I wrote on this subject last week it occurred to me to put in practice an experiment that had before suggested itself to me, but to which I never had occasion to resort. A week ago I cut a partly shrivelled bunch of Grapes hanging near the pipes in our late vinery, and bottled it in the usual way, inserting the shoot in charcoal and water, but instead of placing the bottle in a dry cool place I hung it on a beam in our plant stove, at the warmest end, and have had the satisfaction of seeing the berries fill up again to a considerable extent, while no decay has manifested itself. Since I hung the bunch up another party, who has seen it, informs me that Mr. Henderson, late of Alden Abbey, Watford, put the same plan in prac- tice with the most successful results. After all there is not much to be wondered al in a shrivelled bunchof Grapes plumping up, sinceit is well known that both shrivelled bark and drooping leaves of plants are revived in the same way. A curious question arises, too, as to how long Grapes will keep under such treatment, which is radically different from the cool and dry system under which the Grapes rot when they do decay. We must not forget that a ripe bucch of Grapes is not a dead thing, but aliving pieceof tissue, and no doubt susceptible of the influence of heat and moisture like any other part of the plant. - J S. W. 5138.— Fermenting material In Peaoh houses. — If "T. S " (p, 51) u,es fermenting material in his Peach house to aid the heat, he must not take it in till it has undergone a sweeten- ing process, so as to throw ofiE the fiery gases and rank vapour of ammonia, which, if they escape in the house after the buds start, will destroy the bloom and damage the young leaves. The way to make the manure safe is to throw it in a heap, and after it has become hot to turn it over, casting the outside into the middle, when after a few days the same process sliould be repeated. This will let out the dangerous fumes, and then it may be wheeled in and made use of v. ith safety. But why not add another pipe, if there are any iiu.v in the house ; or, if none, put some ? as in the end that will be the cheapest and most satisfactriry way of forcing ; there is but little labour required in attend- ing to a fire, and not mucli fuel required to keep a Peach house at work. — .1. Sheppakd. 51.13.— Scale on Peaches.— What I have written (p 81 ) in reference to Apples will apply in a great mensure to Peaches, except that iu their caseit will not do, if appearances are studied, to use lime, but paraffin and water at half the strength men- tioned for Apple trees may with safety be applied, and if all the branches be wetted it will bring the scale off. To get the oil to mix with the water it is best to use the latter at a temperature of 100'-*, and to keep it agitated the whole time, so that the mixture maybe of uniform strength when syringed over the tree. Nicotine soap is also a most excel- lent remedy for scale, and is a safe insecticide to use, as it does not hurt the buds nor damage the paint, but cleanses the bark and does a tree good. The sulphur cure is likewise safe in a house up to a certain time, but it must not be used after the buds become forward, and before that care should be exercised not to overdo the thing by having the trees subjected to the fumes too long, as, with the lights closed, half an hour or so will kill any insects there may be in the house. — J. Sheppaed. Garden Flora. PLATE 425. LILIUM SPECIOSUM MELPOMENE.* If a concensus of opinion among Lily fanciers was taken with regard to the respective merits of the half-hundred species belonging to the genus Lilium now grown in English gardens, it is pro- bable that the old speciosum, the commonest and best known of Japanese Lilies, would head the poll. For our own part, if limited to one Lily, we would choose it in preference to all others, not- withstanding the fact that it is one of the ten- derest for open-air culture in this country. We have been familiar with it for over half a century, and as yet it has been unsurpassed— not even by the much-bepraised auratum, which, though a grand and showy Lily, lacks the refined elegance of growth so much admired in speciosum. More- over, the wealth of variety existing in L. speciosum adds much to its importance as a garden plant ; indeed, no other cultivated Lily is so variable. About a dozen or, perhaps, a few more named varie- ties are more or less distinct, but there are many intermediate forms continually cropping up among consignments of imported bulbs that possess equally well-defined characters as those that have received names. Among the new, or rather little known, varieties is that illustrated in the accom- panying plate. This has been named Melpomene by Mr. C. M. Hovey, of Boston, Massachusetts, with wliom it originated among several others a few years ago. This variety is one of the very finest of all as regards the size and form of the flowers as well as in colour, which is extremely rich and bright— so much so, indeed, that the colour printer has been unable to reproduce the brilliancy of the carmine-crimson, the flower itself being several shades deeper than the tint represented in the plate. The size of the blossoms when produced on well-grown plants exceeds that of any other variety— in fact they are al- most as large as those of Parkman's hybrid; the form of the blossoms, too, is most ele- gant, and each reflexing petal has a con- spicuous and well-defined margin of white, which greatly enhances its value. Some seem to doubt whether the Melpomene variety is really distinct from rubrum, but those who have seen the two forms growing side by side have no hesitation in considering the two absolutely distinct. Mr. G. F. Wilson, of Heatherbank, Weybridge, than whom we could not instance a higher authority on all that concerns Lilies, says : " The bulbs kindly given me by Mr. Hovey were flowered in a pot in a cold orchard house. I almost doubted that it would be much superior to the true old form of • Drawn in Mr. G. V. Wilson's garden, Heatherbank, Weybridge, October 4, 1883. L. speciosum rubrum, but it proved to be much finer, having the same rich crimson with the clear white margin to the petals, while the flower was much larger. When exhibited by me before the floral committee of the Eoyal Horticultural Society it was greatly admired, and a first-class certificate was awarded to Mr. Hovey, the raiser of it." The accompanying plate was drawn from one of the plants to which Mr. Wilson alludes in the Heatherbank garden during the first week of last October. These plants were superbly grown, being from 5 feet to 6 feet high, furnished with broad, luxuriant foliage, and profusely laden with blos- soms. In order to form an adequate idea of what speciosum Lilies really are when well grown, they must be seen in such perfection as Mr. Wilson grows them in deep pots in his cool orchard house, forming, as they do, a striking contrast to the poor half-developed specimens not more than a yard or so high that one generally sees. Othek vaeieties of L. speciosum that should be grown on account of their distinctiveness and beauty are rubrum, in the way of Melpomene, but with the flowers scarcely so large ; roseum, of a delicate rose-pink tint ; album, white, or nearly so; Kr^tzeri, a beautifully shaped flower, with pure white petals, each having a medial band of green ; punctatum, white, with rose-coloured spots. These represent the principal varieties of L. speciosum, though there are others, such as Schry- makersi, purpuratum, macranthum, that may be grown in a full collection besides those with fasciated stems, known in catalogues as corymbi- florum. Ci'LTUEE. — As regards the culture of Lilium spe- ciosum and its varieties, the following are instruc- tions given by one of the best cultivators : " This Lily is one of the best plants that can be grown where there is little or no glass accommodation, and were it more generally known how easy it is to cultivate weshould see it in almost every garden. It is not everywhere that this Lily grows well in the open ground, but everyone may grow it well in pots, and with but little trouble and scarcely any expense. In order to be successful in its pot culture, it is necessary in the first place, as soon as the flowers fade, to lay the pots on their sidesin rainy weather, and so insure the bulbs against ex- cess of humidity, from which they are liable to suffer when exposed to the heavy autumnal rains. As soon as the stems decay, the soil, having from the time the leaves commence to turn yellow, been allowed to become quite dry, should be shaken away from the bulbs, and the }Oung ones, which generally form when the treatment has been right, separated from them. The large bulbs are then potted, either singly in a 6-inch pot or several together in a pot of larger dimensions. A gentle watering is then given and the pots are stored away in an outhouse, there to remain until growth commences, when they should be placed in a shel- tered situation in the open air, being brought into the dwelling as they expand their blooms. The small ones are potted five or six together in a 6-inch pot, and may be treated in the same man- ner as the flowering bulbs. This simple treatment, besides the frequent sprinklings in hot weather and occasional waterings with liquid manure, is all that is necessary, and it will be easily seen that it lies in the power of anyone having a few square yards of garden to achieve equally good results. " The great point in commencing is to obtain good sound bulbs and pot them early. Cheap im- ''■5*,-_ * » ^ V ■ . -^A^ • ^ s. mm f w i^!^^ c Feb. 2, 1884.] THE GARDEN 83 ported bulbs are apt to grow weakly the first year, but will generally yield good results the second sea- eon if properly handled. It is, however, a fact that many imported bulbs are irretrievably injured be- fore they come into the grower's possession, so that a first failure is not always to be attributed to a want of cultural skill. " The compost should be fairly light and very free and porous, for this Lily cannot flourish where the soil is retentive and drainage bad. Peat and loam in equal parts I recommend, adding to it a little coarse silver or river sand. Give good drainage, putting a little fibry material thereon, and a thin layer of soot on that, which will keep the worms " The very same situation that suits hardy Ferns will agree with this Lily. The north side of hedge or wall where plenty of light and but little sun comes will suit it to a nicety. A cool moisture- laden atmosphere is what it revels in, and imparts to the foliage that deep glossy hue which indicates perfect health, and wliich serves to show up the delicate and refined tints of the flowers to great perfection. In hot weather frequent syringingsare beneficial, and copious waterings are needful, as when any deficiency in this respect is experienced the under leaves are apt to turn yellow. About three good bulbs in an 8-lnch pot will produce a handsome specimen large enough for any purpose, Lilium Bpecioiitm^ Ehcuring habit oj grcicth. at a distance when the pots are in the open air. Pot tolerably firm, covering the bulbs with about 1 inch of soil, leaving in the case of a 7-inch or 8-inch pot quite 2 inches of space from the rim of the pot to the mould, which space about June is to be filled up with rotten manure, the effect of which will be to draw fresh roots from the stem and feed the plant generally. The best place after potting is a cold frame, plunging the pots in ashes or light mould quite to the rims, and keeping the soil just moist. There they may remain until June, giving plenty of air on all favourable occasions ; in fact, from the time tliey commence to grow the air should never be taken off, re- moving the lights on fine days and on mild nights. This treatment will induce a vigorous growth, at the same time sturdy and lusuriant, so that they will be in good condition for the open air by the time that all danger from frost is over. bnt for indoor decoration the best size is 6-inch pots, a single bulb in a pot. As soon as the flower- stems begin to expand, remove the plants to an airy greenhouse and shade during the blooming period, allowing them to remain there until they die down, as they will ripen better under glass than in the open air." LaohenaliaNalsonl.— It may interest some of your readers to know how I fared with the above plant, and it will be interesting to me to know if the same experience is general. In Oc- tober of 1882 I obtained one bulb, for which I paid .Os. Od. ; it was a poor-looking investment — small, soft, and bruised looking. However, I potted it, and took good care of it. After a while it grew, and, judging by the tuft of leaves, I knew that the bulb had split up into several parts ; it did not flower, and in due time ripened and went to rest. Last October I took it out of the pot, and repotted the produce of that single bulb. The result is, that I have now, just expanding into bloom, thirteen full-sized bulbs and seven which are too small to bloom. If this is the ordi- nary rate of increase. I marvel how the plant seems still rare and certainly still expensive. I may add that Lachenalia aurea rosea, obtained at the same time, has behaved very differently, having made no increase at all. — Fkederick TvMONS, Cloghran, County Dublin. SEASONABLE WORK. FLORAL DECORATIONS. The pendulous blossoms of Thyrsacanthus ruti- lans look bright and attractive just now suspended around the edges of trumpet vases. They could be advantageously used in conjunction witlaCalanthe vestita around the edges of any tall vase or epergne as a central arrangement to a dinner table, filling up the centre of the same with spikes of Calanthe Veitchi, a few blooms of Lielia an- ceps, and the same of Eucharis amazonica around the last named Calanthe. This would give an effec- tive centre-piece that no lover of choice exotica would despise. Another change as a centre-piece for a moderate sized table or for Ihe drawing-room may be made by choosing a well variegated ex- ample of Pandanus Veitchi as good as it can be had in a 4-inch pot ; from this it may be removed a id placed in the centre of a soup plate for want o; a better receptacle. Fill with a little sand to Keep the plant steady, and finish off either with good Moss or some fresh Selaginella into which may be inserted a few bulbs of Tulips in flower, say, for instance, Due Van Thol, scarlet and white, allowing the former colour to slightly pre- dominate. With these the Pandanus will show itself to good advantage. As a finish a few plants of a durable kind of Fern (Davallia, for instance) would greatly improve it. This would prove a lasting arrangement and be well adapted for a room kept at a maximum temperature. Of hardy subjects the pendulous blossoms of Garrya elliptica are now most attractive. A few sprays of these would associate well with the bronzy- coloured points of Berberis Aquifolium and Jas- minum nudiflorum. Rhododendron Nobleanum in the open air has developed several trusses of flowers ; these look well arranged by themselves with their own foliage. The smaller flowered kinds of Azaleas, as amcena, obtusa, and the various hybrids raised therefrom, are useful in a cut state, lasting longer than many of the large flowered varieties. They all answer well for specimen glasses, and can oftentimes be better arranged therein than in larger receptacles, owing to the necessity of allowing only a short stem, especially in the case of small plants. For button-hole bou- quets the various kinds of Epaoiis are very useful. Erica melanthera also looks well used with the former, and both possess greater durability than many forced plants. FLOWER GARDEN. Speing flowers.— The weather still continu- ing mild, these are springing up in every direc- tion, and being so forward, a severe frost would be likely to do much injury. It would be imprac- ticable to protect all, but the most valued should have that attention. Hyacinths and Tulips are most liable to injury, and the neatest of all pro- tections for them is Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. Where, however, the bulbs are planted in a groundwork of Sedum or Saxifrage, this protection cannot he employed ; therefore, under such circum- stances, a covering of Yew or Laurel boughs must be used. The ground being so moist, the slightest frost will be sufficient to raise or rather to loosen autumnal planted spring flowers ; therefore their well-doing will be best assured by well firming the soil about them after frost, should it occur. Over our reserve stock of such plants and dwarf hardy summer bedders planted on warm borders in the kitchen garden we run a light roller as soon as the state of the ground after frost will 84 THE GAEDEN [Feb. 2, 1884 permit, an operation that seems to be doubly bene- ficial, as it firms the plants and apparently con- duces to their more rapid lateral extension. Cer- tainly this is the case with such plants as Herniaria glabra, Mentha Pulegium, Cerastium arvense, Sedum lydium, Thyme, dwarf Veronicas, and vari- ous Stonecrops. Heebaceous plants. — Many kinds of these are also too far advanced in growth for the time of year, but that should serve as an incentive to get all removals and rearrangements completed as soon as possible, for, though they may with safety be transplanted at almost any season, it is but reasonable to suppose that they will do better if moved before growth has become too active, not to mention the importance of their roots getting well established in the fresh soil before dry weather checks root action. The reaction in favour of this class of plants still continues ; intending planters should therefore select kinds only of real merit As to the best mode of arrangement, tastes vary, some preferring to plant single plants in straight lines, the tallest at the back of the bed or border, and the dwarfer in front, and for a formal border this plan has some merit; we, however, prefer planting them in groups or clumps of moderate size, say three plants in a group of Pyrethrum uliginosum, double Sunflower, and similar growers, five or seven plants of Spirrea Aruncus and Anemone japonica, and in still larger numbers of the dwarfer growing kinds. We would then advise the filling in of every vacant space possible with surface-rooting plants, and particularly round those varieties that are least furnished with foliage. The carpet thus formed adds greatly to the general effect of the arrangement. INDOOK PLANTS. Feens.— These are best potted a short time before they commence growing, for if their roots are subjected to the disturbance unavoidable in repotting after growth has commenced, the first fronds produced afterwards are sure to be de- formed. In the case of Ferns, the habit of the species has much to do with the pot room required. Tree kinds of a strong, vigorous character have often much more root room given them than they need or should have, the result being that the fronds grow to such a size as to become too large for the houses in which they are located, and when overgrown they never look well, and often injure smaller sorts that usually have to be accommodated under them. There are no plants that can be kept so long in a liealthy state with limited root .space as Tree Ferns. They will continue to thrive and look well even when their roots have so filled the pots or tubs that there literally seems scarcely any soil remaining. Under such conditions they should, however, be regularly supplied with manure water during their season of growth. Those that are of a spreading habit, like the Gleichenias and Daval- lias, must have sufficient space for their creeping rhizomes to e.xtend, or they are sure to get in- jured, their surface stems being forced to break back, which they usually do weakly. Ferns pos- sessing this habit of growth should not be divided into too small pieces, or they suffer considerably. This is especially the case with Gleichenias, the creeping stems of wliich appear to be incapable of forming fresh roots when they have assumed a hard woody state. Species of a close tufted habit, such as the Adiantums, will bear dividing into much smaller pieces if required. Where Ferns are in beds and on imitation rock- work it is equally iniportant that they should not have more root room tlian is sufficient to support them in a healthy state. If care is taken in pre- paring the places where each is to be planted, it is an easy matter to confine the root space for them proportionate to the requirements of the individual plants. Ferns are not so particular as to soil as many plants ; n-.ost of them succeed in either peat or loam. As a rule, however, they make the best growth in peat, but those intended to be grown for cutting, such as Adiantums o£ the cuneatum sec- tion, and the different kinds of Pteris that are adapted for this work, are best in loam, as in that the fronds usually stand better in a out state. Whichever is used the soil must be kept open by a sufficient addition of broken crocks or coal cin- ders, the latter being quite as good as the former. In all cases Ferns ought to have a thorough clean- ing from insects, such as scale or mealy bug, before being potted, as the mature growth will bear a stronger dressing with insecticide than could be used later on when the young fronds have made their appearance. Where thrips have been numerous it is a good plan to dip the fronds in strong tobacco water or to syringe them with it, as even if none of the living insects are present, there are almost sure to be eggs that will come to life when there is an increase of heat. Palms, — Such of these as require a warm house to grow in are rarely quite at rest even in the winter season, unless the temperature is kept so low as to check all growth, and the most dormant time should be chosen to pot those that want it ; bnt Palms, like Ferns, do not need so much root room as is often given them. When too much root space is allowed the strongest growers in particular overshade everything near them, and unless the house in which they are grown is of un- usual height, when the roots are not kept within limits the leaves grow to such a size that they seem to be always struggling to get through the glass. Palms will succeed in almost any kind of soil, but heavy loam, almost approaching the consistency of clay, is the material which they like best. For all purposes where plants with green foliage are required there are none superior to Palms, inas- much as, with the elegance of Ferns, their leaves possess a stout texture, which enables them to bear without injury the wear and tear of frequent re- moval when used for grouping with flowering and other plants in halls, corridors, or rooms. A still further recommendation which Palms possess is that a good many species which come from warm countries may be kept for a considerable time in a much lower temperature than that in which they are indigenous. Even such elegant kinds as Leo- poldina pulcher (Cocos Weddelliana) will bear keeping through the winter in a temperature from 48^ to 50*^ without showing any ill effects there- from, the only difference being that so treated their growth is comparatively slow, but that will generally be looked upon more as an advantage than otherwise. Chama?dorea gracilis, C. gramini- folia, C. glaucophylla, and Areca lutescens are beautiful habited species that will bear a lower temperature than the countries from which they come would lead one to suppose. If at all affected with insects, an effort should be made to get them clean whilst in a small state, as the work involved is much lighter than when the plants get large. ORCHIDS. East India house.— Whatever may be said against the unseasonable state of the weather as regards outdoor vegetation, it is certainly very suit- able for Orchids under glass. Get the potting of all the occupants of this house done that require it. The largest proportion of Orchids require as potting material either Sphagnum alone or mixed with turfy peat. In either case a liberal pro- portion of broken bits of charcoal and clean pot- sherds should be added. Many, too, do not pot firm enough— especially if Sphagnum only is used. The best grown Vandas and Aerides ever seen perhaps were in pots quite three parts filled with drainage, with the Sphagnum pressed very firmly on the top. The Moss should be well washed before it is used, and all extraneous matter should be picked out of it. After washing we lay it out to dry for a few days, but it must not be dried so much as to kill it. In potting with peat added to the Sphagnum, this is also pressed together rather firmly. It ought also to be noticed that some plants have the roots clinging so lirmly to the pots that they cannot be turned out without either causing great injury to the plants, by breaking or lacerating them, or break- ing the pot. The latter course we take rather than injure the roots. Now that repotting and snrfacing are finishing, and most of the plants are pushing fresh roots, a rather moist atmosphere and also a higher temperature are desirable. With the fresh JIoss, small snails may have been intro- duced, and it will be necessary to watch for them every night with a good lamp, as, though small, they soon eat the ends off the young rootlets, and they also get at those immediately under the surface, where they are not readily observed. This is a good time to repot Cypripediums requiring a warm house. C. Dominianum seems to require a good shift every year ; considering what the pa- rentage of this is, one would not expect that it would succeed best in the warmest house, but that is the case. We have also repotted C. niveum, using a liberal proportion of turfy loam in the compost. C. Lowi, C. lievigatum, and C. Stonei we also grow in the warmest house, and as a rule it is best to turn them out of their pots and repot them annually. Cattleya house.— Cattleyas that require re- potting should now receive attention. Where plants of these are doing well, a large proportion of the roots will be growing over the sides of the pots, the insides of which will also be well fur- nished with roots. In a case of that kind it is quite necessary to break the pots in order to pre- serve the roots. In potting such plants as may have made a quantity of roots outside we would not cover them with compost ; on the contrary, we would have at least the greater portion of them outside the compost. We have noticed sometimes that when such plants have had all their roots potted in peat and Sphagnum they have not done so well as previously. Miltonias in some cases are now started into growth, and they are also making young roots ; therefore, such as require repotting should be seen to at once. M. Candida requires much the same treatment as Cattleyas. It should be repotted in peat and Sphagnum, re- moving the old rotten compost ; we keep the roots moist all the year round. The section of which M. Moreliana and M. spectabilis are the type does not require so much depth of compost, and should be potted in pans, or if pots aie used, they ought to be filled to within 3 inches of the surface with drainage, and it may be necessary to secure them to the compost with pegs. The peculiar yellow tint of the foliage of these Mil- tonias lead many to believe that they are not in good health, but this sickly hue is common to most of the species, and is most apparent when the plants are in a light position near the glass. Newly imported Cattleyas should be potted in clean crocks without any Sphagnum or peat. The crocks should just be kept moist with tepid water, taking care not to wet any part of the plant above the drainage. When fresh roots issue from the base of the last-formed pseudo-bulbs a portion of the crocks should be removed, and some of the usual potting material substituted. If Cattleyas arrive in pretty good condition, and have not been caught by the frost, they soon become established. Ln^lia purpurata and Cattleyas of the elegans and guttata type are included amongst those requiring the treatment just recorded. There ought now to be a good many Dendrobiums in flower, and a succession of them should be kept up from now until midsummer. Those still out in cool houses must be kept dry at the roots, and it is best to gradually inure them to a higher temperature, as if transferred fiom a low to a high temperature suddenly some of the species will lose their flowers prematurely. Cool houses.— Repotting ought also to be proceeded with in this department while the weather continues favourable. We have potted all our Masdevallias that were not potted last summer. These very speedily make large speci- mens, but when grown on for seven or eight years without being divided the amount of flowers produced is not in proportion to the foliage. We have plants of that age that have now been divided into eight or ten parts, and each of them has been potted in 4-inch or .5 inch pots. M. llarr^ana is the most vigorous grower, and, taking it altogether, certainly the best of them. Tliey also vary very much in colour and form of flowers. M. Veitcbiana when well grown is al.'o a very fine Feb. 2, 1884.] THE GAKDEN 85 species. It does best divided and potted like the other. Tiie leaves ought to be carefully sponged over with soapy water to clear them from dust and to prevent the attacks of thrips. We find in repotting the Odontoglossums that nearly all of them are just starting to make fresh roots ; there- fore all requiring repotting have received atten- tion in that way. We would rather repot when the young growths have started a little, but where there is a large collection it is not possible always to repot or to in any way attend to plants on the very day when they require it. In instances in which any of the plants had flower- spikes in course of development it was thought best not to repot them until they had passed the flowering period. O. cirrhosum is either in the state in which the growths are completed, or nearly so ; the flower-spikes are in course of de- velopment, and therefore only a few could be re- potted. The flower-spikes of Oncidium macran- thum, which luxuriates in the coolest house, are also in course of development ; a few of this species were potted ; but the others will not be done until the flowering period is over, probably in August. Slugs are very fond both of the flower- stems and the succulent roots of this Oncidium, and therefore must be carefully watched, and when found destroyed. This species succeeds well in pots with rather more drainage than is re- quired for Odontoglossums. It will also thrive on a block of wood, but in that case more care is necessary as regards watering. PROPAGATING. This is a good time to make the principal sowing of Fern spores ; when sown now they have the whole of the growing season before them, whereas if sown in summer they frequently fall a prey to damp during the ensuing winter. The most critical time with seedling Ferns is when they require pricking off for the first time, which will be as a rale in about a couple of months from the time of sowing. Old plants of Chrysanthemums intended for spring pro- pagation must be protected from frost, should it occur, but should have all the air possible, or a weak growth and consequently puny cuttings will be the result. Chrysanthemum cuttings put in a month ago will need attention in the way of removing decayed leaves ; if the foliage is much inclined to damp, give air for a little time each day till the damping is arrested. Where it is desired to increase the stock of Bamboos, such as Fortunei, Metake, Simonsi, and Maximowiczi, the Ealalias, and similar plants, they may now be divided and placed in a frame, where out of the way of frost and heavy rains they will start in:o growth in spring without a check. If not already done no time must be lost in securing pieces of the roots of any plants that are propagated in that way, such as nearly the whole of the hardy Primulas, especially the varieties of Sieboldi. Senecio pulcher increases readily in this way, all that is necessary being to cut the roots up into pieces about 1 inch in length and dibble them in well-drained pots in a perpendicular position with the upper part just below the surface of the soil. Placed in a gentle heat, they will break freely and grow satisfactorily. Stock plants of any subjects that it is desired to propagate largely in view of the coming summer should be introduced into heat to push them into growth, and thus get an early supply of cuttings. Cuttings of most things required for summer decoration strike without much difiiculty, and where there is not a propagating house for the purpose a close case can easily be fixed in any house which is kept at a sufficient temperature in which such as Fuchsias, Bouvardias, Heliotropes, Lobelias, Alternantheras, Verbenas, Coleus, and the like root readily. For such bottom heat is not necessary, provided the temperature of the house is kept up to a sufiicient height. For spring pro- pagation we employ the following method with great success : In a stove there is a stage about 4 feet wide in a good light position near the glass; on it is placed a good layer of ashes or Co30a-nut fibre, over which the propagating cases I are set. They are made the width of the stage, and resemble miniature three-light pits, so common everywhere ; the sloping lights obviate drip, and a width of 4 feet is very convenient for closely examining the cuttings. The cases may be made very light for the convenience of shifting them about when required. Pelargonium cuttings are much better on a shelf than where moisture condenses on them. KITCHEN GARDEN. Potatoes are now being planted in pits and frames, and where Radishes are in great demand these are sown thinly either between the rows or over the whole bed. We do not recommend sowing Radishes with Potatoes, however, if sufii- cient can be grown elsewhere. All our earliest seed Kidney Potatoes are stored on their ends in shallow boxes, and all side shoots are either rubbed off or picked out with the point of a knife, as we prefer to depend entirely upon the strong central sprout. Those intended for the earliest plant- ings are plunged thinly in boxes of leaf-soil and placed in a gentle heat to sprout. They root strongly into the leaf-soil, and can easily be moved and planted into the warm soil of the pits and frames without experiencing the slightest check. Glazed unheated pits are prepared for them by first securing a depth of about 3 feet of well-turned heating material ; on this is placed a layer of short manure, finishing off with a depth of 10 inches of compost. Any light soil is suitable, but our favourite compost consists of old Melon and Cucumber soil and finely sifted old potting soil in equal proportions. Out of such a mixture we have turned some of the cleanest and best Potatoes we have yet seen, and fit for any purpose. The frames we use for early Potatoes are about 27 inches deep at the back and 18 inches deep in front, and for these the beds are made about 4 feet high at the back and a foot less in front. As it is necessary to have the growth as near the glass as possible, we sink the frames into the bed to about half their depth, and otherwise prepare them similar to pits. The frames can be raised whenever the haulm gets dangerously near the glass. Potatoes should not be planted till the trial stick, which ought always to be plunged into the centre of the beds, can be borne comfortably in the hand. The drills are drawn with the hand — three to each light, or about 18 inches apart — from the front to the back and 8 inches deep. The tubers are disposed 8 inches apart and only slightly moulded over, preferring to level the bulk of the soil drawn out about them as they advance into growth. But little air is given in the first instance unless the heat is very moist. In that case a little air should be constantly given. Later on air must be given freely whenever the state of the weather permits, always guarding against cold winds, the aim being to secure a sturdy growth. The soil should be kept in a moist state till ripen- ing commences. The frames may be closed early in the afternoons, but it is not advisable to damp the foliage, as this may be the means of inviting disease. The earliest crops should be covered up every evening, and the later ones whenever frost is imminent. We have tried several varieties of Potato, but for frames we now rely entirely upon the Improved Ashleaf. Those who prefer a round variety should grow either First and Best or Early Border. We tried a few of the latter last season and have formed a high opinion of its merits. FRUIT. Pkun'isg and manuring oechakds. — The pruning of all fruit trees should be completed before the sap is in motion if we except Nuts, which are usually left until the tiny little female blossoms can be discerned ; then all useless spray is cut, and a Kentish Filbert or Cob Nut bush looks almost as bare as a Vine when pruned, yet the crops gathered testify to the soundness of the practice. In counties in which Filberts are allowed to grow on the extension system the fruit is neither so numerous nor bo fine. All young Apple, Pear, Plum or Damson trees are now having their strong leaders cut back ; the trees require strength of branch to carry a crop as well as willingness to do so, and the only way this can be secured in the case of young trees is to stop the erect shoots at least one-third of their length. We have ample proof of what the result is when this is neglected. The trees rush upwards instead of filling out laterally; the first crop bears them down so much that the limbs have to be supported, or they inevitably got broken off, and nothing is gained as regards quantity or quality of fruit. If the rampant erect shoots are checked in their upward career, the weakly undergrowth comes into bearing far more quickly, and the fruits are finer. Market gardeners look to quality as much as quantity, and if pruning did not pay they would not do it. One sieve of good high-priced fruit is worth two or three of seconds, and the expenses of transit and commission are the same in each case. Manuring is also on a liberal scale ; where are the orchards attached to private gardens that are supplied with manure at the rate at which they are by market growers ? A garden half starved is bad enough, but a starved orchard is worse ; it can yield nothing. There are more reasons than un- genial seasons for barren fruit trees; and if we would but take that old advice, viz., " I will dig about it and manure it, and look for fruit another year," we might yet find that the seasons were improving, at least as regards fruitfulness. Some growers have had plenty of fruit, even in bad sea- sons, some none ; moderate pruning and more than moderate manuring is the secret in the case of those who are successful. Chekeies. — When the trees in the early house show signs of opening their flowers fumigate with tobacco paper on a calm day ; repeat the follow- ing morning if necessary, and syringe well to free the buds from insects. Examine the borders, and give sufficient tepid water to keep them in a satisfactory condition until the fruit is set. Dis- continue syringing during the time the trees are in flower, and let external conditions regulate the damping of walls and other surfaces, as Cherries, like Peaches, set best in a well ventilated house free from stagnant moisture, but at the same time not so dry as to shorten the flowering period by causing the petals to drop prematurely. With the thermometer now standing at 50" in the open garden the most gentle circulation through the pipes with liberal ventilation will suffice, but in the event of a change to colder weather 40^ at night to 50" by day will be quite high enough. The succession house started early in this month may be brought on by warming the pipes for an hour or two every morning, by syringing with tepid water when the temperature begins to rise, and by closing from three to five o'clock every afternoon. If late kinds in pots and tubs are still out-of-doors get them housed, and place nets over the open ventilators. Young trees may still be taken up and potted in strong virgin loam. Let the pots be clean and well drained, ram the soil firmly, and plunge in a warm, airy situation out- of-doors where they are to remain during the season, unless house room is plentiful and not better occupied. Plums. — In many places these are grown with the Cherries, and they do very well through the early stages, but the time comes when the latter require more air and less moisture than would be good for the Plums, and on this account it is best to keep them separated by means of a glass division placed across the house, and to have the ventilating gear made to work separately in each compartment. If kept clean and brought forward in a low temperature with plenty of air, the Plum is one of the most prolific and interest- ing fruit trees that can be selected for growing under glass, but anything like hard forcing at any time will prove fatal to the crop. When grown in pots the trees soon become very fruitful, and unless timely thinning of the flowers is attended to, the uninitiated may find the favourite at the outset the least profitable at the end of the race. Where glass is plentiful, the cost of fuel being trifling, a whole section should be devoted to that king of 86 THE GARDEN [Feb. 2, 1884 dessert Plnms— the old Golden Drop. In cold districts or bad seasons it does not always lay on its fine amber colour, without which it never attains its proper flavour, but with a glass roof over it every fruit becomes a sweetmeat, and may be kept hanging for weeks and months after it is ripe. Figs. — With the weather all in favour of rapid progress, the fruit on early pot Figs is now swell- ing fast, and the young tender leaves are begin- ning to expand under the genial warmth which mild, sunny days enable us to secure without having recourse to sharp firing. Old trees which have filled the space allotted to them will soon re- quire stopping and thinning in order to insure an even spread of foliage without crowding, as it is more than useless having more leaves than can be ex- posed to the action of sun-heat and light. Young trees having space to fill may be allowed to extend in every direction, when the firm, short-jointed growths so made will produce a succession of fine fruit after the earliest crop is gathered. The tem- perature of this house may now range from 58° on mild nights to 70° by day, when air must be admitted and taken off in time to run up a few degrees higher on fine afternoons. Fay particu- lar attention to watering, and while guarding against clogging the fresh compost before it gets filled with new roots, see that the trees do not receive a check through becoming too dry. Syringe backwards and forwards twice a day when fine, and damp the floors only on dark, dull afternoons when there is danger of the foliage remaining wet after nightfall. Succession houses started at the commence- ment of this month may be kept at a temperature of 50° to 55° at night, with a corresponding rise by day. Syringe well and see that the inside borders are brought into proper growing condi- tion before the terminal buds burst into growth. Economise fire heat by the use of fermenting material placed on the borders, and set ammonia at liberty by turning it at short intervals. Give an abundance of air to the latest houses and wall cises. Prune, or rather thin out, the shoots and wash well with soapy water, but defer tying and nailing in for the present. Put in eyes or cuttings and treat them as Vine eyes. If cuttings are pre- ferred, the buds should be removed from the base, otherwise they will give much trouble by throw- ing up suckers after the trees get established. Also pot on young stock, using rich calcareous turf with a liberal admixture of old lime rubble and bone dust, and place the plants in an intermediate house for fruiting through the late summer months. Steawberkies. — The early forcing of Straw- berries, like Cherries and Plums, requires great patience and unremitting attention to details. Where forcing is commenced in November, many good plants are sacrificed for the sake of a few S'rawberries, which neither give credit to the grower nor pleasure to the consumer ; while by deferring this work until the end of the year, a better supply of finer fruit would be secured until Strawberries are ripe in the open air. P'or the use of town-going families, April and May are the months in which a good supply of the finest kinds, including the old British Queen, should be in force, and in order to secure this supply, plants of two or three sorts should be selected from the cold plung- ing pits, every ten days properly prepared by wash- ing the pots and top-dressing with rich loam and manure, preparatory to placing them in the pits or houses in which they are to be brought forward. In this dark, variable climate it is difficult to give the exact temperature at which the forcing pit should be kept. At the present moment plants in the open air are in a state of excitement ; last year at this time we had 30° of frost, two facts which show that the successful forcing of all kinds of fruit must be conducted upon the give-and-take principle, by running up to 55° or 60° on mild afternoons, and allowing the tempera- ture to descend to 40° on cold nights. When the first batches of HSricart de Thury begin to throw up their flower-stems, a little extra warmth may be given to them through the day by shutting up early with solar heat and moisture, furnished by the syringe, but air must be admitted at night, otherwise the foliage will become drawn and in- capable of performing its proper functions when the fruit begins to swell. When in flower, remove the plants to the lightest and most airy part of the structure, and discontinue syringing, but keep them regularly supplied with tepid water, choosing tlie early part of the day for the operation. Re- move weak side blossoms and fertilise with a small brush when the day temperature has reached the maximum. llAKDY FKUIT. — A Continuance of unusually mild weather is beginning to tell unfavourably upon all kinds of fruit trees, particularly the easily excited Peach and Cherry against walls and Currants and Gooseberries upon open quarters ; and although the latter are regarded as of less value than the former, it is questionable if the loss of the crop of bush fruit would not be quite as severely felt as that of the Peach and Cherry. Under these circumstances, steps should be taken to keep everything as backward as possible, as well as to have protecting material of various kinds ready for use when the proper time arrives. Peaches and Nectarines are, of course, unnailed, pruned, and securely supported by means of stakes and ties some distance away from the walls, and in this pDsition they must remain until we have a change in the weather, or the rapid swelling of the buds press on the annual tying or nailing in. In the absence of frost, a litnle extra care in wash- ing the walls and trees of all kinds to free them from the larvae of insects will be well repaid. For stone fruit trees after they are nailed in, a barrel of soapsuds from the laundry, with two or three pounds of sulphur and a like quantity of soft soap added, will make an inexpensive wash, which may be applied freely without fear of injury to the most tender buds. If Gooseberries have not been pruned, the sooner they are done the better, as a crowded state induces early growtli, and pruning checks it. An idea prevails that birds are not so likely to spoil an unprnned tree, but it matters little whether the tree is pruned or un- pruned it a pair of bullfinches find theirwayintoit. The safest and best way is to prune and dress with a mixture of soot and lime reduced to the con- sistency of cream, and passed through a fine sieve to admit of it being taken up and discharged by an old syringe. If time admits, trees in orchards should be thinned out and divested of Jlo?s which may have gathered on the stems and branches by scraping with a piece of hoop iron. When this has been done, wash with the composition recom- mended for Gooseberries, and top-dress the roots with fresh soil, road scrapings, or rotten manure. Select clean ripe shoots from healthy trees for grafts, and lay them in under a north wall to be ready for use in March or April. For large standards which have been headed back, two- year-old shoots are generally used by experts in this country, and it rarely happens that a graft fails. atreet flowers.— It would be a great ad- vantage to buyers if street flower sellers of other countries could arrange their wares after the manner of the Florentines, and with plenty of greenery. A bunch of Paper-white Narcissus, as sold for fourpence, is tied up with twigs of Ilex ; when untied and put in a glass flowers and foliage form a perfect bouquet. Besides Ilex, Box and Alexandrian Laurel are commonly used. The value and beauty of flowers is greatly increased by the addition of suitable foliage, and when both are sold together it is a great convenience to the buyer, while to the seller it should have the ad- vantage that fewer flowers are needed to make a much more attractive bouquet, and the individual flowers, supported and kept asunder by the rather stiff foliage, do not suffer by jamming together as do the unhappy flowers incur street bunches. The flowers now sold in the streets are Paper-white and Pseudo-narciss Daffodils, Carnations, Tea Roses, Pansies, white and grey Roman Hyacinths, Chimonanthus, and Neapolitan Violets.— G. J., Florence. Indoor Garden. FORCING SNOWDROPS. It has been asked, can these be forced ? Well, I cannot give much encouragement myself, for I have tried and failed several times to force Snow- drops to my Eatisfaction ; but, as we sometimes learn more from failures than successes, I shall be pleased to be told as to how I failed— or rather, how others have succeeded, for in the whole cata- logue of floral gems there are none that I prize more than Snowdrops ; and, as someone has truly said, we never see a garden too full of them. At Linton, in Kent, we had them by hundreds of thousands ; in fact, they had been multiplied by division for many years by digging them up when at rest, and dibbling them into the gra-sy slopes, bank.', and edgings of woodland walks, especially under clumps of Lime trees, where Grass grew thinly, and where the soil was kept annually en- riched by falling leaves iu autumn. The bulbs were planted in little patches of three or four to- gether, 6 inches apart ; and, in order to show how rapidly they increased, I may state that in a very few years they formed solid masses of bulbs that in their season of flowering were like beds of driven snow. With the view of lengthening the season of their flowering, I have tried various ex- pedients, but with little success. I have at Ibe present time Snowdrops in flower under glas,: but although constantly under the same condi- tions since they were potted in October, they are scarcely any more forward than those in the open ground exposed to rain, hail, frost, and snow. The system I adopted was the same as that which I have usually found to answer with Crocuses and other bulbs that do not stand rapid forcing. In October I prepared a quantity of 3-inch and 4-inch pols by filling them three parts full of good soil, and then putting from fifteen to twenty Snowdrop bulbs in each pot, covering with soil of the same description. This being moist, no water was given until the bulbs were well rooted. The greater part of them were set under a slate stage in a cold fernery, where the temperature ranged from 40° to 45°, and where they soon filled the pots with roots, and the tops looked as if they would be in flower by Christmas. Some of the most forward were moved into very gentle heat, but they were the latest to flower ; and some were put into an unhealed house, and came fully into bloom the first week in January ; but at the same date those in open borders were expanding their blossoms, so that, as far as forcing is concerned, I can give but little hope of the Snowdrop figuring as a Christmas decoralive plant. At the same time, it has a pretty and chaste eff ei t in pots amongst bulbs of brilliant hues, for these little pots, now full of blossoms, look extremely well plunged in Lycopodium, or set on stages with very dwarf Ferns. In addition to growing them in pots, I planted a border in a cold, unhealed Peach house at the same time by scatter- ing the bulbs broadcast on the surface, and cover- ing them with 2 inches of fine soil. On this I put a covering of Sedum acre elegans. These have flowered equally satisfactorily as those in pots, but very little in advance of those out-of-doors. The only ones that failed were a few put into heat ; so that, thus far, my expeiience of Snowdrop forcing is not encouraging. J. G. Winter blooming Flax —This shrub, the Linum trigynum of botanists, has been known as a winter blooming plant for nearly a century. It is generally found in a half starved condition, in a greenhouse temperature, producing only a few straggling flowers; but no plant better repays good cultivation, and if well grown, it will reward the cultivator with a profusion of its clear bright yellow flowers in the dead of winter, when few plants are in bloom. Early in March secure good strone cuttings of it ; these can be easily had if, when"done flowering, the plants are partially cut back. In a brisk heat the cuttings strike root quickly, and when well rooted they should be potted singly in 3-inch pots, taking care to pinch the points of the shoots, so as to cause them to FiiB. 2, 1884.] THE GAEDEN 87 break back. "When they have taken bold of the fresh soil and started freely, they should be gra- dually hardened off in an intermediate house. They should be kept potted on as required and well pinched back ; watering at this stage must not be neglected, and the plants should be kept well syringed, as they are subject to red spider. By June, if the cuttings were rooted in the latter part of March, they will need their final shift, and if large plants are required, 8-inch pots will be none too large. A fortnight before they are moved into their flowering pots they should be stopped for the last time, and when they have got hold of the fresh soil they should for a time be placed in a cool frame, setting them on ashes or some moisture-holding material. Keep them a little close till hardened off ; afterwards give all the air possible, but shade from bright sun. As the pots get nicely full of roots weak manure water should be given freely, and they should be kept well syringed twice a day on bright days, closing the frame early in the afternoon, which will greatly help to keep down spider and promote sturdy growth. When the nights begin to get cool, which will be in September, they should be moved to an intermediate house, or where the temperature does not fall much below 55°, so as to ripen the wood, as upon this depends whether there will be much a south wall it thrives well out of doors in the south, requiring only a covering of Cocoa-nut fibre to shield it from the cold in winter. The flowers areproducedin April. The tuber is large and fleshy, like that of a Caladium, and produces annually a growth of leaves, the sheathing bases of whose petioles form a sort of stem some 18 inches in height. This stem is smooth, shining green, and spotted all over with dull olive. The leaf-blade is pedate or divided into three principal lobes, the upper one of which is hastate and entire, the two lower ones being again divided into three lance- shaped segments which are twisted in such a man- ner as to give the whole leaf a curiously distorted appearance. The spathe is produced on a stalk 8 inches long and is rolled together at the base so as to form a ventricose tube, from which the limb widens out into the form of a pig's ear and mea- sures almost a foot in length. The colour of the outside of the spathe is the same as that of the leaf-stalk, while that of the inner is of a livid purple, becoming paler towards the tip. The whole of the inner surface is covered with purple succu- lent hairs, which near the throat are thick and spiny-like. The spadix or tail is about 8 inches long, and is also clothed with fleshy hairs. The male or female flower^, which are borne on the lower end of the spadix, are separated by several Helicoiiceros (Arum) crinitus in/lower. flower or not. The soil I find suitable is good fibry loom two paits, and leaf soil one part, with a good admixture of quarter-inch bones, and suffi- cient sand to make the whole porous. — R. A. CULTIVATED ARUMS. The family of which our native Wake Robin, Cuckoo Pint, or Lords and Ladies, is a well- known representative consists chiefly of plants whose attraction is their quaintness or singularity of form rather than what one would call beauty. Although not a true .Arum, the plant herewith figured has a very clo^e relationship to that genus, in which it was for a long time placed, but from which it is now removed and called Helicodiceros crinitus, the name adopted for it in that standard work on generic distirctions — the " G-enera Pian- tarum." In some Continental gardens this plant IS called H. muscivorus, and now and then one meets with it under the name of Arum Dracun- (ulus. In Schotts " Aroidese ' there is a fine coloured figure of this plant, and another in tie Motanical Jie/jixter, t. S:>1. It is a native of the islands of the Mediterranean, and is plentiful in Corsica, Minorca, and Sardinia. It was intro- duced into this country in 1777. Mr. Bentham sent tubers of it to the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Chiswick from Minorca exactly sixty years ago, and it was from these that the figure last mentioned was made. In this country H. crinitus requires protection from severe frost, and is perhaps best cultivated on a cool Jrame, although in a well-sheltered position under rjw^s of these thick spiny-looking hairs, which are hooked like Rose thorns. When the flower first expands a powerful and disagreeable odour i^ emitted, but after a day or two this disappears. Of the Arum3 proper we have, in addition to A. maculatum, the Wake Robin of our hedge- rows and ditches, and A. italicum, the only locality ; for which in this country is the Isle of Wight, but which is a common European species; also A orientale, A. palestinum, A. longispathum, and A. polyphjllum, which are about all the true species ; of Arum represented in gardens in this country, I although the genus proper comprises some twenty I species. The whole of the above named may be I grown in a sheltered position out-of-doors, or, if grown in pot.s, treated like Lachenalias. They are all worthy of a place in the garden, possessing as : they do, in a more or less modified form, the singu- lar characters just described as belonging to their near relative, the Helicodiceros. The Arisicmas, Arisarums, Biarums, and Typho- ' niums are equally interesting, and some of them at least really handsome flowering plants. The Arisiemas especially contain some strikingly beau- tiful, as well as several curiously-formed flowered ' species. A. speciosum, with its urn-shaped spathe and long-tailed spadix, and its fine green red- j edged foliage ; A. galeatum, whose flowers are ! emerald green with white stripes ; A. utile, some- times called A. Hookerianum, with a large- , hooded spathe, which in form caricatures the Darlingtonia pitchers, and in colour is a rich purple ; . A concinnum, A. prjecox, A. papillosum, and several others are all remarkable for beauty of colour and singularity in the form of their flowers. Arisarum vulgare (the Friar's Cowl) is a com- mon spring flowering plant in Southern Europe, where it is seen in great abundance in moist and shaded places during the first two months of the year. A. corsicum (sometimes called Arum pictum) is another charming plant, a native of the same region. The hooded spathes of these plants re- semble the pitchers of Sarracenia variolaris, whence the name Monk's Cowl. The Ty- phoniums, being natives of the Tropics of the Old World, require more warmth than the above. Of these the finest is T. Browni, intro- duced a few years ago, but now lost — at least, so far as I have been able to ascertain. T. diva- ricatum produces large purple-coloured spathes, which would be worthy of admiration did they not smell so unpleasantly, one flower being suflScient to render the atmosphere of a large stove almost unbearable. The flowers of the Srapelias smell badly enough, but their odour is not perceptible unless one sniffs at them, whereas the Typhoniums disperse their disagreeable scent over many yards of space. OuDE. HARDY PLANTS UNDER GLASS. The extent to which a conservatory can be fur- nished with highly ornamental hardy plants with- out what is called hard forcing, or indeed forcing at all, during the winter and spring months, is hardly realised , nor has the subject ever been much discussed. With people living in the north of England and in Scotland, spring flowers are, as a rule, seldom in bloom till May ; hence, unless they have a good indoor supply, a long season of barrenness is experienced. If, there- fore, in every garden where a good collection of hardy spring and summer flowers existed, a certain portion of them were each season set aside and put into pots about the beginning of winter, and set in a cool house, they would afford a bright show of flowers during the early portion of the year, when there are none outside. Num- bers of hardy border plants not only do well undtr glass, but do far better than outdoors, and show a delicacy in the colour of their flowers, and a beauty of foliage and habit, that only those who have seen the plants under such circumstances could believe. In the following remarks, therefore, it is proposed to give a few directions as regards the preparation of hardy plants for flowering indoors. Among the shrubby class adapted for the purpose, Poses stand first, because they are more at home in such quarters than out-of-doors, and afford such a long display of flowers of all colours. Rambling kinds, like Gloire de Dijon. Marechal Niel, and Cheshunt Hybrid, or any of the free climbing sorts, of which those named are among the best, may be planted out in either an inside or outside border, and trained up the roof or walls with the certainty of their growing and producing thousands of flowers in February, March, and April. Roses soon cover much space under glass, and bloom freely the first year. The great secret of their culture is to keep them free from insects, an easy matter in a cool house by fumigation, and pruning as little as possible. Gloire de Dijon, Marechal Niel, and Cheshunt Hybrid (respectively yellowish blush, bright yellow, and deep crimson) all make fine long growths, extending to yards in a single season, and such growths will bloom their whole length, and extend as well ; hence the error of severe pruning, one of the worst practices imaginable with such free-growing subjects — in fact, Marechal Niel will not endure such treat- ment. Climbing Roses in a cool house such as I am contemplating are far better than Roses in pots, ten times more easily managed, and when they can be planted out, it is useless troubling with pot plants at all. Before enumerating other subjects, I may state that in a hardy plant house Camellias would succeed extremely well, and so would Chinese Azaleas planted out, and all the fine greenhouse Rhododendrons, such as the old free flowering Gibsoni, ciliatum, Countess of Hadding- ton, and all the newer and still finer hybrids belonging to the jasminiflorum breed. Among THE GARDEN [Feb. 2, 1884. outdoor shrubs that stand taking up from the ground to force, and putting back again about June or July to recoup in the open air for a sea- son, are common Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Deut- zias, Laurastinus, flowering Currants, Weigelas, double and single Thorns, and other ordinary- growing spring-flowering ;shrabs. Any of these taken up in November with a little care, and put in pots in common and rather light soil (it need not be rich), will flower freely after the new year and onwards. But the best way to manage such plants is to keep them permanently in pots plunged in the borders or shrubberies, to display their Bowersthere till they are wantedindoors,when they only need to be lifted out of the ground, and such roots cat off as are coming through the bottom of the pots or over their rims. This is the best way in which to keep shrubs for forcing, using one lot one year and another the next, or any two or three years. The majority, however, lift out of the ground and force at once, especially Ehododendrons and Azaleas. These shrubs, and the Camellias and other things alluded to would form a background to a cool house. Fill up the body of the space, and for the rest de- pendence would have to be placed upon the following hardy subjects : Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Narcissi, including any of the common Daffodils, which succeed beautifully under glass ; the white Wood Hyacinth is a fine subject ; Lilium candidum. Anemone f ulgens and A. japonica alba, Spiraja japonica (white). Spiraea palmata (pink). Forget-me-nots (blue and white), Arabis, Iberis corifolia, and others ; Phlox pro- cumbens, Saxifraga Wallacei, and others of the same habit ; early Phloxes, Iris, Fffionies, Stocks, Asters, Dielytra, Potentillas, Violets, Pansies, Carnations, Primroses, Auriculas— in fact, all free-flowering spring and summer flowers of a not too rampant habit. Crocuses, Snowdrops, Daffodils, and other early bulbs should be taken up out of the ground earlyin the autumn and potted ; and most of the other things should be potted and housed by November or De- cember. Nearly all strictly herbaceous subjects, however, like the Spir.^a, Phlox, Iris, and Dielytra, whose stems die down iu winter, lift easily and flower well, and may be managed by any intelli- gent amateur who is careful in lifting his plants to get good roots with them— not a diflicult matter. Large pots must be avoided ; if they are sufliciently large to hold the roots and allow a very little soil in and around them, they will do. Small pots should be the motto. All such plants are ready for forcing as soon as taken up, and need m preparation. Shrubby subjects, like Iberis, should be propagated by cuttings. A few young tnp3 put in under a handlight or cloche will make neat little flowering tufts, and the Arabis and other dwarf subjects like it may be managed in the same way. Primroses and Auri- culas of all sorts may be taken up in October and potted, and these alone will make an excep- tionally fine show and afford much variety. SpiriBa japonica and S. palmata lift in clumps with the spade in winter, and are not checked in the least. The Anemone japonica alba, unless it can be got in good masses, is better potted a season and left in the border in the pots. It is well worth the trouble, for when grown in a pot in a window or under glass it is a noble subject, producing abundance of large white flowers far clearer and more perfect than out-of-doors. Tlie red kind should also be prepared in the same way. Phloxes are also pretty, and produce perfect spikes of flower under glass ; only the dwarf early sorts should be used, and they will lift and force well. The Dielytra is even more accommodating, and is one oE the most ornamental plants that can be grown, but all named are suitable. Any one having a house or pit ready for such subjects, say in December, should then have all his plants potted and placed in it. I would not advise him to push the plants at first, but after the new year he should take advantage of all fine days to husband the natural heat ; and if the house be heated, which would be better, he could keep the temperature up to 60° or 55° by day, which is sufti- Cient to set everything on the move. Early plants would flower first, and the others would follow in succession just the same as outdoors. In March, April, and May the house should be gay with flowers. It is not needful to have a large house for such plants, but whatever its size, it should be well filled. By midsummer the display will be over, when the house can be devoted to other pur- poses till wanted again; and the plants can be turned out of doors, and each kind treated accord- ing to its need. Those who have vineries. Peach houses, or greenhouses may, of course, use them also for growing hardy plants while the trees or other inmates are at rest, or not far advanced, but most success will attend those who can devote a house to the plants themselves. J. S. W. PROPAGATION AND CULTURE OF BOUVARDIAS. Op all plants which can be grown in a cold frame in summer, and flowered in an Intermediate tem- perature in winter, Bouvardias are the choicest and most beautiful, and their usefulness, especi- ally in a cut state, is byond all calculation ; here we grow many dozens of them to bloom from the end of September till March. Some of them are young plants, the produce of cuttings put in in the spring, and a good many of them are old plants grown on year after year. Our stock is always maintained by means of cuttings. When the plants cease to flower they are placed in a cool frame and hardly any water is given them ; this induces them to go to rest for a time and then all the foliage drops off. After resting they are in- troduced to heat in any house or pit in which there is a temperature of from 60° to "0°. Here they soon begin to push young shoots all over the branches, and it is these young growths which we use as Cuttings, and the best of all cuttings they make. They are taken off when from 2 inches to ,3 inches long— not cut off, but broken off by being drawn downwards, so as to cause a little piece of the old wood to come away with them in the form of a heel, and with this attached, or, indeed, with- out being cut in any way, they are inserted. If treated in this way and dibbled round the edge of a 4 -inch or 5-inch pot filled with a mixture of leaf- soil and sharp sand and plunged in a bottom-heat of 70° or thereabouts, 90 per cent, of them will be found to have formed a quantity of roots in three weeks' time. As soon as they are fairly rooted they are withdrawn from the bottom-heat and placed on a shelf in the propagating pit. Here they remain for a short time until they have gained a little strength and the roots have become harder than when plunged. At first the young plants are potted singly in 3-inch pots. These are well drained, and the soil used consists of a little loam and a good deal of leaf-soil and sand. When newly potted they are kept in a close, warm place until they begin to get established and make fre.-h top growth, and after that they grow away freely. Air is gradually given them, or they may be shifted into cool frames by degrees until by July they have become quite hardy. At this time some plant them out in open borders and allow them to grow there for two months or more, but in this treatment I have no faith ; at least I could never get such good and useful plants in that way as by growing them always in pots, and this I now do. As the young plants become too large for the pots they occupy they are shifted into larger ones, and the main thing to try for by the end of October, or earlier, is to have the pots well filled with roots and plenty of shoots, which should be hard and matured through exposure to sunshine ; then blooms in profusion will be produced almost naturally during the whole of the winter. Old plants, when oa^, of flower in spring, may be allowed to rest f